UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH
Dar.
qDU21
Darlington AXemorial Jjibrary
The Matiaeers of the Bounty.
There;, is aa island in the Pacific Ocean wbicli Has discovered in the year 1769 and named Pitcairn's Island, In 1789, the British government sent oat the Bounty to convey p)ant6 of the bread-fruit tree ttroiu Tahiti to the West Indies, but the Xtew mutineed, and sent Captain Bligh and others who would not join them [ btioat in an open boat, and set sail for Ta- i niti, where they took on board some na- I tive men and women, again spread their ! sails and were not heard of till the year '; 1808, when Captain Folger, of Nantucket [ found their descendants on Pitcairn's le- j land, which had previously been suppos- 'ed to be uninhabited. On the Island there had been a bloody fight, and only Jack Adams of the original mutineers remained. In IS.jG the whole community was remov- 'ed to Norfolk Island, but some of them afterwards returned to Pitcairn's. Since ,tUen they have scarcely been heard from till within a few days. About the middle )of the year 1870 Captain John Pardy, of 'the ship Whittington sailed from Cfelifor- inia for Liverpool, and stopped at the Is- land, where he found between sixty and seventy persons living" well, but in need ; of clothing, medicine, &c., and longing for nfews from the outer world.. They gave him the following letter, which, on the a.'ith of last month, he sent from ' Edinburg to the Alta California : I PiTC.IlRN'S ISL.\ND, Oct. 6, 1870.
Mr. Editor: As many ships pass this island on the route to and fi;om San Fran- cisco, bnt at too great a distance to board I them in our canoes, it is our opinion that I they do jjot know the island to be inhabit- ed. There are no dangers of rocks or ] shoals, and if they come within a mile I they w/)uld most always get a supply of fruit, &c. We number' siSty or seventy persons, and we alwaj-s like to show hos- pitality to stranpers and to hear the news. I This is the third day we have seen ships I pass, and this daj' one is standing in, by which we send this. The landing is on the north side of the island. ^ If, dear sir, you would have the kind- ness to give this a place in your valuable paper, you would greatly" oblige your I humble servants.
, The <;o.M.Mf.MTY OF PlTC-^IRN I^^LA.ND.
(■ A !' ■".' il"j I. 1 i< ' '
■■.■•^■'
A
VOYAGE
T O T H E ^
SOUTH SEA,
U^:DERTAKEN BY COMMAND OF
HIS MAJESTY^
FOR THE PURPOSE OF
CONVEYING THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE TO THE WEST INDIES,
IN HIS MJJESrr's SHIP THE BOUNTT,
COMMANDEDBV
LIEU' TENANT WILLIAM B L I G H, ns-^ -\«?i-j._
INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE
MUTINY ON BOARD THE SAID SHIP,
AND THE
SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE of Part of the Crew, in the Ship's Boat, From T O P O A, one of the FriendlvIslands, To TIMOR, a Dutch Settlement in the Eaft Indies.
THE WHOLE ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS, &t.
PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF THE
LORDS COMiMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS AiaJESTY, PALL-AIALt.
>!.DCC.XCII.
ADVERTISEMENT.
AT the time I publiilied the Narrative of the Mu- tiny on Board the Bounty, it was my intention that the preceding jxirt of the Voyage fhould be con- tained in a feparate account. This method I have fince been induced to alter. The reafon of the Nar- rative appearing firft, was for the purpofe of communi- cating early information concerning an event which had attracted the public notice : and being drawn up in a hafly manner, it required many correftions. Some circumftances likewife were omitted j and the notation of time ufed in the Narrative, being according to fea reckoning, in which the days begin and end at noon, muft have produced a degree of obfcurity and confu- fion to readers accuftomcd only to the civil mode. And this would have increafed, as the remainder of the voyage, on account of the numerous fhore occurrences at Otaheite and elfewhere, could not, with clearnefs and propriety, have been related in any other than the ufual manner of reckoning.
a Befides
ADVERTISEMENT.
Befides remedying thefe inconveniencies, I have thought a fuller account of our pafTage from Timor to Europe, than that contained in the Narrative, would not be unacceptable. Thefe reafons, with the manifeft convenience of compriling the whole Voyage in one continued narrative, in preference to letting it appear in disjointed accounts, will, it is hoped, be al- lowed a fufficient excufe for having varied from the original intention. Neverthelefs, for the accommoda- tion of the purchafers of the Narrative already pub- lifhed, thofe who defire it, will be fupplied with the other parts of the Voyage feparate ; z. e. the part pre- vious to the mutiny, and the additional account after leaving Timor.
CONTENTS.
CONTENTS,
C H A p. I.
p LAN of the Uxpedition. -^Outfit, and Occurrences to the Time of leaving England. -—Defcription of the Bread' Fruit ----- Page i
CHAP. II.
Departure from England. — Arrival at Teneriffe.-f-Sail from thence. — Arrival off Cape Horn. — Severity of the Weather. — Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope - 14
CHAP. III.
Paffage tozvards the Cape of Good Hope, and Search after Trijian da Cunba.—r Arrival at Falfe Bay. — Occurrences there. — Reports concerning the Grofvenofs People. — De^ parture from the Cape - - - 35
a 3 CHAP.
CONTENTS.
CHAP. IV.
Pqffage towards Van Die men's Land. — Make the IJland of St. Paul. — Arrival in Adventure Bay. — Natives feen. — Sail from Van Diemen's Land - - Page 42
C H A P. V.
Rocky IJJands dijcovered. — See the IJland Maitea, and arrive at Otaheite. — -Ship crouded by the Natives - - 55
CHAP. VI.
Account of an Lnglijh Ship lately failed from Otaheite. — Death of Omai. — Captain CooJi's Pi£iure fent on board. — Otoo vifits the Ship. — His Vifit returned. — Natives well difpofed tozvards us. — Account of the Cattle left by Cap- tain Cook. — Bread-fruit plants promifed. — Vijit to the Earee Rahie. — Prefents made to the Arreoys. - - 61
CHAP. VII.
A Theft cotnmitted. — Deception of the painted Head. — Con- ner fation zvith a Priefi. — A Wreftling Match. — Reports of the Natives concerning other IJlands.—So?ne Account of Omai. - • - _ - - 82
V
CHAP. VIII.
Expedition to Tettabd after a Heifer. — Extraordinary do- mejiic Arrangements. — Tmah's Mother vifits the Ship. —
A Sheep
•
C O N T E N r S.
A Sheep brought from Ulietea, — Heavy Storm. — Death of the Surgeon. — 'Tao-wne and Toahroab Harbours ex- amined. _ - _ _ Page 93
C H A P. IX.
A IValk into the Country. — the Peeah Roah. — Prevailed on, by the Kindnefs of the Chiefs, to defer our Departure. — Bread- fruit Plants colleBed. — Move the Ship to "Toahroah Har- bour.— FiJJjing. — 'Three of the Ship^s Compaiiy defer t. — In- difcretion of our People on Shore. — Inflances of Jealoufy. — Mourning. — Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet. — The Defer ters recovered, — Tinah propofes to vifit England. 105
C H A P. X.
The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.. — Coolnefs with the Chiefs on that Account. — Vijit to an old Lady. — Difiurbance at a Heiva. — Tinah's Hofpitality. — A Thief taken, and pu- nijloed. — Preparations for failing. •- . - 123
* CHAP. XI.
Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa. — A Prefent delivered by Tinah for his Majejly. — Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure from Otaheite. - 135
CHAP. XII.
At the Tfland Huaheine. — A Friend of Omai vijits the Ship. — . Leave the Society IJIands. — A Wat er-f pout. —The IJIand
Whytootackee
CONTENTS.
Wbytootackee dijcovered. — Anchor in Annamooka Road. —
Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives. — Sail
from Annamooka.-— The Chiefs detained on board. — Pr>rt
friendly - - - - Page 143
CHAP. XIII.
A Mutiny in the Ship « . - - \t^^
CHAP. XIV.
Proceed in the Launch to the I/land Tofoa.— Difficulty in ob~ taining Supplies there. — Treacherous Attack of the Na^ lives. — Efcape to Sea, and bear away for New Hol- land - - - - - - 165
CHAP. XV.
Pajfage towards New Holland. — I/lands dif covered in our Route. — Our great DifireJJes, — See the Reefs of New Hol- land, and find a Pajfage through them - - 177
CHAP. XVI.
Progrefs to the Northward, along the Coajl of New Hol- land. — Land on different IJlands, in fear cb of Supplies 200
CHAP. XVII.
Paffage from Nezv Holland to the I/land Ti?nor. — Arrive at
Coupang. — Reception there - - - 222
2 CHAP.
CONTENTS.
CHAP. XVIII. AtCoupang - - - _ Page 239
CHAP. XIX. From Timor to Batavia - - • - 246
CHAP. XX.
Occttrrences at Batavia^, andPaJage thence to England - 253
LIST
LIST OFTHE PLATES.
Head of Lieutenant Bligh - - to front the Title page.
Plan and profile of the deck of the Bounty - - Page i
Sedlions of the Bread-fruit - - - - - lo
Plan of Toahroah harbour - - - - ~ 104
Copy of the draught from which the Bounty's launch was built 165 Chart of Iflands difcovered from the launch - - •• lyg
Chart of part of the N E coaft of New Holland - - 220 Chart of the track of the launch from Tofoa to TimoF - - 238
A V O Y-
A
VOYAGE
TO THE
SOUTH SEAS, ^c.
CHAP. I.
Plan of the Expedition. — Oiitfity and Occurrences to the Titne of leaving England. — Defer iption of the Bread-Fruit,
THE King having been gracioufly pleafed to comply 1-87. with a requeft from the merchants and planters ^ ~'' "~ interefted in his Majefty's Weft India poffeffions, that the bread-fruit tree might be introduced into thofe iflands, a veffel, proper for the undertaking, was bought, and taken into dock at Deptford, to be provided with the neceffary fixtures and preparations for executing the objedl of the voyage. Thefe were completed according to a plan of my much honoured friend, Sir Jofeph Banks, which, in the event, proved the moft advantageous that could have been adopted for the intended purpofe.
The fhip was named the Bounty : I was appointed to August, command her on the i6th of Auguft 1787. Her burthen 16. w^as nearly two hundred and fifteen tons ; her extreme length on deck, ninety feet ten inches; extreme breadth, twenty-four feet three inches ; and height in the hold
B under
P-LAX X Si:CTItA'
BorBfrii- .iRMEM TK.iVSH-OllT
s/ifier'/iofJt,- m,//i/te/ of'
littm^- a//e/ stOHTiio- //;, lotts ,
/'/■ r«,ifmy ike
Jiread Aiiit plants'
A
VOYAGE
TO THE
SOUTH S E J S, ^c.
CHAP. I.
Plan of the 'Expedition. — Outfit, andOccurrences to the Time of leaving England, — Defer iption of the Bread-Fruit.
THE King having been gracioufly pleafed to comply j-s;. with a reqiieft from the merchants and planters ''" ~'~ '~ interefted in his Majefty's Weft India polTeffions, that the bread-fruit tree might be introduced into thofe iflands, a veflel, proper for the undertaking, was bought, and taken into dock at Deptford, to be provided with the necelTary fixtures and preparations for executing the objecfl of the voyage. Thefe were completed according to a plan of my much honoured friend. Sir Jofeph Banks, which, in the event, proved the moft advantageous that could have been adopted for the intended purpofe.
The fhip was named the Bounty; I was appointed to August. command her on the i6th of Auguft 1787. Her burthen i6. was nearly two hundred and fifteen tons; her extreme length on deck, ninety feet ten inches; extreme breadth, twenty-four feet three inches; and height in the hold
B under
AVOYAGETO
iinder the beams, at the main hatchway, ten feet three inches. In the cockpit were the cabins of the furgeon, gunner, botanift, and clerk, with a fteward-room and ftore- rooms. The between decks was divided in the following manner: — the great cabin was appropriated for the pre- fervation of the plants, and extended as far forward as the after hatchway. It had two large fky-lights, and on each fide three fcuttles for air, and was fitted with a falfe floor cnt full of holes to contain the garden-pots, in which the plants were to be brought home. The deck was covered with lead, and at the foremoft corners of the cabin Avere fixed pipes to carry off the water that drained from the plants, into tubs placed below to fave it for future ufe. I had a fmall cabin on one lide to fleep in, adjoining to the great cabin, and a place near the middle of the fhip to eat in. The buiic-head of this apartinent was at the after-part of the main hatchway, and on each fide of it were the births of the mates and midfliipmen ; between thefe births the arm-chefl was placed. The cabin of the matter, in which was always kept the key of the arms, was oppofite to mine. This particular defcription of the interior parts of the fhip is rendered necelTary by the event of the expedition.
The fhip was mafted according to the proportion of the navy; but, on my application, the mafts were fhortened, as I thought them too much for her, confidering the nature sbptsm- of the voyage. *3 *' On the 3d of September, the fhip came out of dock i but
the carpenters and joiners remained on board much longer, as they had a great deal of work to finifli.
The next material alteration made in the fitting out,
was, lelTening the quantity of iron and other ballaft. —
3 ■ .1 gave
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 3
I gave dire£lions that only nineteen tons of iron fliould be ,787. taken on board inftead of the cuftomary proportion, which ^"J^""' was forty-five tons. The ftores and provifions I judged would be fully fufficient to anfwer the pur]:»ofe of the remainder; for I am of opinion, that many of the mif- fortunes which attend fhips in heavy ftorms of wind, arc occafioncd by. too much dead weight in their bottoms.
The eftablifliment of men and officers for the fliip were as follows :
I Lieutenant to command
I Matter
I Boatfwain
I Gunner
I Carpenter
1 Surgeon
2 Mailer's Mates 2 Midfliipmen 2 Quarter Matters I Quarter Matter's Mate I Boatfwain's Mate I Gunner's Mate I Carpenter's Mate I Carpenter's Crew I Sailmaker I Armourer I Corporal I Clerk and Steward
23 Able Seamen
44
Two fkilful and careful men were appointed, at Sir Jofeph Banks's recommendation, to have the management
B 2 of
A VOYAGE TO
October. Thurfday 4.
Taefday 9.
Monday 15.
November. Sunday 4.
Wednefday 28.
of the plants intended to be brought home : the one, David Nelfon, who had been on fimilar employment in Captain Cook's laft voyage ; the other, William Brown, as an alliftant to him. — With thefe two ovir whole number amounted to forty-fix.
It was propofed, that our route to the Society Iflands fhould be round Cape Horn; and the greateft difpatch became necelTary, as the feafon was already far advanced : but the ftiipwrights not being able to complete their work by the time the fliip was ready in other refpe6ls, our failing was unavoidably retarded. However, by the 4th of OcSlober the pilot came on board to take us down the river ; on the 9th we fell down to Long Reach, where we received our gunner's ftores, and guns, four four-pounders and ten fwivels.
The fliip was flored and vi6\:ualled for eighteen months. In addition to the cviftomary allowance of provifions, we were fupplied with four krout, portable foup, effence of malt, dried malt, and a proportion of barley and wheat in lieu of oatmeal. I was likewife furniflied with a quantity of iron-work and trinkets, to ferve in our intercourfe with the natives in the South Seas : and from the board of Longitude I received a time-keeper, made by Mr. Kendal.
On the 15th I received orders to proceed to Spithead ; but the winds and weather were fo unfavourable that we did not arrive there till the 4th of November. On the 24th I received from Lord Hood, who commanded at Spithead, my final orders. The wind, which for feveral days before had been favourable, was now turned diredtly againfi: lis. On the 28th the fhip's company received two months pay in advance, and on the following morning we worked out to St. Helen's, where we were obliged to anchor.
We
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c.
We made different unfuccefsful attempts to get down Channel, but contrary winds and bad weather conftantly forced us back to St. Helen's, or Spithead, until Sunday the sanday z^. 23d of December, when we failed with a fair wind.
During our ftay at Spithead, the rate of the time-piece was feveral times examined by Mr. Bailey's obfervations at the Portfmouth obfervatory. On the 19th of December, the laft time of its being examined on fliore, it was 1' 52", 5 too faft for mean time, and then lofing at the rate of i'', i per day ; and at this rate I eftimate its going when we failed.
The object of all the former voyages to the South Seas, undertaken by the command of his prefent majelty, has been the advancement of fcience, and the increafe of know- ledge. This voyage may be reckoned the firft, the in- tention of which has been to derive benefit from thofe dill:ant difcoveries. For the more fully comprehending the nature and plan of the expedition, and that the reader may be poffefled of every information neceffary for entering on the following Iheets, I fhall here lay be- fore him a copy of the inftrudlions I received from the admiralty, and likewife a ftiort defcription of the bread- fruit.
By the Commiffioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland^ tic.
WHEREx^S the king, upon a reprefentation from the merchants and planters interefted in his majefty's Weft India poffeffions, that the introdudtion of the bread-fruit tree into the iflands of thofe feas, to conftitute an article of food, would be of very effential benefit to the inhabitants,
hath,
6 AVOYAGETO
1787- hath, in order to promote the interefts of fo refpedtable a ^_^— ^- "j body of his fubjeds (efpecially in an inftance which pro* mifes general advantage) thought fit that meafures fhould be taken for the procuring fome of thofe trees, and con- veying them to the faid Weft India iflands : And whereas the veflel under your command hath, in confequence thereof, been ftored and vi6lualled for that fervice, and fitted with proper conveniences and necefTaries for the prefervation of as many of the faid trees as, from her fize, can be taken on board her ; and you have been dire(5led to David Nei- reccive on board her the two gardeners named in the ErJwn. margin, who, from their knowledge of trees and plants,
have been hired for the purpofe of fele6ling fuch as fhall appear to be of a proper fpecies and fize :
You are, therefore, in purfuance of his majefty's plea- fure, fignified to us by Lord Sydney, one of his principal fecretaries of ftate, hereby required and directed to put to fea in the vefTel you command, the firft favourable oppor- tunity of wind and weather, and proceed with her, as expeditioufly as pofiible, round Cape Horn, to the Society Iflands, fituate in the Southern ocean, in the latitude of about eighteen degrees South, and longitude of about two hundred and ten degrees Eaft from Greenwich, where, according to the accounts given by the late Capt. Cook, and perfons who accompanied him during his voyages, the bread-fruit tree is to be found in the rnoft: luxiu'iant flate.
Having arrived at the above-mentioned iflands, and taken on board as many trees and plants as may be thought necefTary (the better to enable you to do which, you have already been furniflied with fuch articles of merchandize and trinkets as it is fuppofed will be wanted to fatisfy the natives) you are to proceed from thence
through
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c.
through Endeavour Streights (which Icparate New Hol- land from New Guinea) to Prince's Ulaiul, in the Str.eights of Sunda, or, if it Ihould happen to be more convenient, to pafs on the eaflerh fide of Java to fome port on the horth fide of that ifland, where any bread-fruit trees which may have been injured, or have died, may be replaced by man- gofleens, duriens, jacks, nancas, lanfas, and other fine fruit trees of that quarter, as w^ell as the rice plant which grows upon dry land ; all of which fpecies (or fuch of them as Ihall be judged moft eligible) you are to purchafe on the beft terms you can from the inhabitants of that ifland, with the ducats with which you have alfo been furnhhed for that purpofe; taking care, however, if the rice plants above- mentioned cannot be procured at Java, to touch at Prince's Ifland for them, where they are regularly cultivated.
From Prince's Ifland, or the Ifland of Java, you are to proceed round the Cape of Good Hope to the Well Indies (calling on your way thither at any places which may be thought necelTary) and depofit one half of fuch of the above-mentioned trees and plants as may be then alive at his majefl:y's botanical garden at St. Vincent, for the benefit of the Windward Iflands, and then go on to Jamaica: and, having delivered the remainder to Mr. Eafl, or fuch perfon or perfons as may be authorized by the governor and council of that ifland to receive them ; refreflied your people, and received on board fuch provifions and fl:ores as may be neceflfary for the voyage, make the beft of your way back to England ; repairing to Spithead, and fending to our fecretary an account of your arrival and proceed- ings.
And whereas you will receive herewith a copy of the in- flirudions which have been given to the above-mentioned
gardeners
A VOYAGE TO
gardeners for their guidance, as well in procuring the faid trees and plants, and the management of them after they fliall be put on board, as for bringing to England a fmall fample of each fpecies, and fuch others as may be prepared by the fuperintendant of the botanical garden at St. Vincent's, and by the faid Mr. Eaft, or others, for his majefty's garden at Kew; you are hereby required and diredled to afford^ and to give directions to your officers and company to afford, the faid gardeners every poffible aid and affiftance, not only in the coUedling of the faid trees and plants at the places before-mentioned, but for their prefer- vation during their conveyance to the places of their deftination.
Given under our hands the 20th November 1787.
HOWE,
CHAS BRETT,
RD HOPKINS,
J. I.EVE SON GOWER.
To Lieut. W"' Bligb, commanding his majejifs armed vejfel the Bounty-, at Spithead.
By command of their Lordfhips,
P. Stephens.
In the foregoing orders it is to be obferved, that I was particularly dire6led to proceed round Cape Horn ; but, as the feafon was fo far advanced, and we were fo long de- tained by contrary winds, I made application to the Admi- ralty for difcretional orders on that point ; to which I receiv- ed the following anfwer :
By
THE SOUTPI SEAS. Sec.
By the Commijioners for executing the office of '787- Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, ^c. &c.
THE feafon of the year being now fo far advanced as to render it probable, that your arrival, with the veffel you compiand, on the fouthern coaft of America, will be too kfe for your pafling round Cape Horn without much diffi- culty and hazard ; you are, in that cafe, at liberty (notwith- ftanding former orders) to proceed in her to Otaheite, round the Cape of Good Hope.
Given under our hands the i8th December 1787.
HOWE,
CHAs BRETT, B A Y H A M.
2o Lieut. JV"' Bligb, commanding his majejlfs armed vej'el Bounty, Spitbead.
By command of their Lordlhips,
P. Stephens,
THE BREAD-FRUIT is fo well known and defcribed, that to attempt a new account of it would be unnecefTary and iifelefs. However, as it may contribute to the conve- nience of the reader, I have given the following extradls refpeiSling it, with the plate annexed.
ExtraSi from the account of Dampiefs Voyage round the
world, performed in 1688.
"THE bread-fruit (as we call it) grows on a large tree, as
« big and high as our largeft apple-trees : It hath a fpread-
** ing headj full of branches and dark, leaves. The fruit
C <' grows
10
A VOYAGE TO
1787.
December.
grows on the boughs like apples ; it is as big as a. penny- loaf when wheat is at five fhilHngs the bufliel ; it is of a round fliape, and hath a thick tough rind. When the fruit is ripe, it is yellow and foft, and the tafte is fweet and pleafant. The natives of Guam ufe it for breads They gather it, when full-grown, while it is green and hard ; then they bake it in an oven, which fcorcheth the rind and makes it black ; but they fcrape off the outfide- black cruft, and there remains a tender thin cruft; and the- inlideis foft, tender, and white like the crumb of a penny- loaf. There is neither feed nor Jlone in the inlide, but all is of a pure fubftance, like bread. It muft be eaten new ;, for, if it is kept above twenty-four 'hours, it grows harfh and choaky ; but it is very pleafant before it is too ftale. This fruit lafts in feafon eight months in the year, during which the natives eat no other fort of food of bread kind^ I did never fee of this fruit any where but here. The- natives told us, that there is plenty of this fruit growing on the reft of the Ladrone iflands ; and I dtd never hear of it any where elfeP Vol. I. p. 296.
ExtraB from the account of Lord Anfon''s Voyage^ publijbed by Mr. Walter.
"THERE was, at Tinian, a kind of fruit, peculiar to ** thefe (Ladrone) iflands, called by the Indians rhymay, but *' by us the bread-fruit \ for it was conftantly eaten by us,. *' during our ftay upon the illand *, inftead of bread ; and *' fo univerfally preferred, that no fliip's bread was expended ** in that whole interval. It grew upon, a tree which is
* About two months} viz. from the latter end of Auguft to the latter end of Oftober, 174a.
I ^ " fbmewhat
' ^.//.v/./ n/ //u . /'hr,,,/ . //>
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. II
** fomewhat loft 7, and which towards the top divides into ,787.
^« large and fpreading branches. The leaves of this tree ^^*'""°^^
*' are of a remarkable deep green, are notched about the
** edges, and are generally from a foot to eighteen inches
** in length. The fruit itfelf is found indifferently on all
*' parts of the branches ; it is, in Ihape, rather elliptical
*' than round ; it is covered with a tough rind, and is ufu-
*' ally feven or eight inches long; each of them grows
<' lingly, and not in clufters. This frviit is fltteft to be ufed
<* when it is full-grown, but ftill green ; in which llate,
*' after it is properly prepared by being roafled in the em-
*' bers, its tafte has fome diftant referabiance to that of an
*' artichoke's bottom, and its texture is not very different,
" for it is foft and fpungy."
Extra&s from the account of the frjl Voyage of Captaitt Cook, Hawkefivorthf Vol. II.
IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.
"THE bread-fruit grows on a tree that is about the fize " of a middling oak ; its leaves are frequently a foot and a *' half long, of an oblong fliape, deeply finuated like thofe *' of the fig-tree, which they refemble in confiftence and <* colour, and in the exuding of a white milky juice upon *' being broken. The fruit is about the lize and fliape of a *' child's head, and the furface is reticulated not much un- ** like a truffle : it is covered with a thin fkin, and has a *' core about as big as the handle of a fmall knife. The <' eatable part lies between the fkin and the core ; it is as " white as fnow, and fomewhat of the confiftence of new ** bread : it muft be roafted before it is eaten, being firft " divided into three or four parts. Its tafte is infipid, with
G 2 "a flight
12 AVOYAGETO
1787. " a flight fweetnefs fomewhat refembling that of the crumb December. « ^f wheatcn bread mixed with a Jerufalem artichoke." P. 80, 81. See alfo the plate there and at p. 232.
"OF the 'many vegetables that have been mentioned al- " ready 2kS ferving them for food, the principal is the bread- *' fruit, to procure which cofts them no trouble or labour *' but climbing a tree. The tree which produces it does not " indeed fhoot up fpontaneoufly ; but, if a man plants ten *' of them in his life-time, which he may do in about an *' hour, he will as completely fulfil his duty to his own ** and future generations as the native of our lefs temperate " climate can do by ploughing in the cold winter, and " reaping in the fummer's heat, as often as thefe feafons " return ; even if, after he has procured bread for his pre- ** fent houfehold, he Ihould convert a furplus into money, ** and lay it up for his children.
" It is true, indeed, that the bread-fruit is not always in ** feafon ; but cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, and a great <' variety of other fruits, fupply the deficiency." P. 197.
Extradi from the account of Captain Cook's lafi Voyage.
IN THE SOCIETY ISLANI>S.
" I (Captain Cook) have inquired very carefully into their *' manner of cultivating the bread-fruit tree at Otaheite ; *' but was always anfwered, that they never planted it. *' This, indeed, mufl be evident to every one who will exa- ** mine the places where the young trees come up. It will *' be always obferved, that they Ipring from the roots of *' the old ones, which run along near the furface of the ** ground. So that the bread-fruit trees may be reckoned
" thofe
December.
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. I3
" thofe that would naturally cover the plains, even fuppof- 1787
*' ing that the ifland was not inhahited ; in the fame man-
*' ncr that the white-barked trees, found at Van Dicmcn's
" Land, conftitute the forefts there. And from this we
" may obferve, that the inhabitant of Otaheite, inftcad of
*' being obliged to plant his bread, will rather be under the
** necellity of preventing its progrefs ; which, I fuppofe, is
*' fometimes done, to give room for trees of another fort, to
" afford him fome variety in his food." Voh II. p. 145.
IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
"THE bread-fruit trees are planted, and flourifli with " great luxuriance, on rifing grounds." — " Where the hills " rife almoft perpendicularly in a great variety of peaked " forms, their fteep fides and the deep chafms between ** them are covered with trees, amongft which thofe of the *' bread-fruit were obferved particularly to abound." Vol. III. p. 105 and 114, containing Captain King's Narrative.
" THE climate of the Sandwich Illands differs very little *' from that of the Weft India Iflands, which lie in the ^^ fame latitude. Upon the whole, perhaps, it may be ra- " ther more temperate." Captain King, ib. p. 116.
" THE bread-fruit trees thrive in thefe iflands, not in fuch " abundance, but produce double the quantity of fruit they " do on the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of " the fame height, but the branches begin to ftrike out from " the trunk much lower, and w ith greater luxuriance.'* Capt. King, ib. p. 120.
CHAP.
14
A VOYAGE TO
CHAP. IL
Departure from England. — Arrival at Teneriffe. — Sail from thence. — Arrival off Cape Horn. — Severity of the Weather, — Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.
,-8-. /^N Sunday morning the a3d of December 1787, we December. \^ failed from Spltlicad, and, paffing through the
Sunday 23. Ncedles, direded our courfe down channel, with a frefh gale of wind at Eaft. In the afternoon, one of the feamen, in furling the main-top-gallant-fail, fell off the yard, and was fo fortunate as to fave himfelf hy catching hold of the main-top-maft-llay in his fall. At night the wind^increafed to a ftrong gale, with a heavy fea. It moderated, however,
Tuefday 25. on the 25th, and allowed us to keep our Chriftmas with chearfnlnefs ; but the following day it blew ^ fevere ftorm of wind from the Eaftward, which continued till the 29th, in the courfe of which we fuffered greatly. One fea broke away the fpare yards and fpars out of the flarboard main chains. Another heavy fea broke into the fliip, and ftove all the boats. Several caiks of beer, that had been lafhed upon deckj were broke loofe and waflied overboard, and it was not without great difficulty and rifk that we were able to fe- cure the boats from being waflied away entirely. On the
Saturday 29. 29th wc wcrc in latitude 39° 35' N. and longitude 14° 16 W.
when the gale abated, and the weather became fair. Be-
lides other mifchief done to us by the ftorm, a large quantity
x)f our bread was damaged and rendered ufelefs, for the fea
^ ' had
ii
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &:c. I5
had ftove in oiir ftern, and filled the cabin with water. 1787. From this time to our arrival at Teneriffe we had moderate ^ embek. weather, and winds moftly from the northward.
January 4th. This forenoon we fpoke a French fhip, 1788. bound to the Mauritius. The next day, at nine in the fore- saoirda) 7- noon, we faw the ifland of Teneriffe, bearing W S W I W, Teneriffe. abo\it twelve leagues diftant. It was covered with a thick haze, except the north-weilernmoft part, which is a re- markable headland, refembling a horfe's head, the ears very diflincl. To the eaftward of this head ••■■ lie two round rocks, the northern boundary of Teneriffe. I had a good obfervation at noon, by which I make the latitude of the two rocks 28° 44' N, and their longitude by our timekeeper 16° 5' W. To the fouthward of thefe, and near the fliore, is a high needle rock : about four leagues farther to the fouthward, the coaft inclines towards the Weft to the road of Santa Cruz, where we anchored at half paft nine on Sunday morning, in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored along fhore in the fame depth, with the cupola tower of the church of St. Francis bearing WIN, one mile, the Eaft part of the road E by N, the caftle on the South point S W, and the Wefl part of the Grand Canary S S E. A Spanifh packet, bound to Corunna, an American brig, and feveral other vefTels, were lying here.
As foon as the (hip was anchored, I fent an officer (Mr. Chriftian) to wait on the governor, and to acquaint him I had put in to obtain refrelhments, and to repair the da- mages we had fultained in bad weather. To this I had a very polite anfvver from the governor -f-, that I fhould be fupplied with whatever the ifland afforded. I had alfo di- re(5ted the officer to acquaint him that I would lalute,
* S 82° E by the compafs. t Marquis de Brancheforte.
provided
i6 A V G Y A G E T O
178J, provided an eqvial number of guns were to be returned ;
January. ^^^^^ ^g j received an extraordinary anfwer to this part of
Teneriffe. my mefTage, purporting, that his excellency did not return
the fame number but to j^erfons equal in rank to himfelf,
this ceremony was omitted.
During this interval I was vifited by the port-mafter (Capt. Adams) and fliortly afterwards feveral officers came on board from his excellency, to compliment me on my arrival. As foon as the fliip was moored, I went on fliore, and paid my refpedls to him. Monday;. Oil Monday morning I began to forward the fhip's bufi- nefs with the utmoft difpatch, and gave the neceflary direcftions to MeiTrs. Collogan and fons, the contradlors, for the fupplies 1 wanted. I alfo got leave of the governor for Mr. Nelfon to range the hills, and examine the country in fearch of plants and natural curiolities.
As there was a great furf on the ibore, I bargain- ed for every thing I wanted, to be brought off by the Ihore boats, and agreed to give five fhillings per ton for water. V^ry good wine was bought at ten pounds per pipe, the contradl price ; but the fuperior quality was fifteen pounds ; and fome of this was not much inferior to the beft London Madeira. — I found this was an unfavour-, able feafon for other refrefhments : Indian corn, potatoes, pumpkins, and onions, were all very fcarce, and double the price of what they are in fummer. Beef alfo was diffi- cult to be procured, and exceedingly poor ; the price nearly fix pence farthing per pound. The corn was three current dollars per fanega, which is full five fhillings per bufliel ; and bifcuit at twenty-five fliillings for the hundred pounds. Poultry was fo fcarce that a good fowl coft three fliillings. This is, therefore, not a place for ftiips to expedt refrefli-
ments
ANU ARV.
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec.
ments at a reafonable price at this time of the year, wine excepted ; but from March to November fupplies are plen- ^ tiful, particularly fruit ; of which at this time we could pro- cure none, except a few dried figs and fonie bad oranges.
' During our ftay here, the weather was fair, with N E Nautical Re- winds and calms, and fmall drizzling rain in the night. The '^"^^' thermometer from 66° to 69° at noon in the fliade. I could make no lunar obfcrv^ations for the longitude, but by the help of the time-keeper I have computed the fituation of the town of Santa Cruz to be aS'' 28' N latitude, and 16° 18' W longitude. I obferved the variation by two compafles to be 20° i' W : this much exceeded what I could have imagined ; for, in 1776, I obferved it only 14° 40' W ; a difference of above five degrees in eleven years : and this makes me refledt on the uncertainty of obtaining the exzO: deviation of the magnetic pole, and of com'fe its annual variation, which never can be accurately afcertained, unlefs the obfervations are made always in one fpot, and with the fame compafs.
Teneriffe, though confiderably without the tropic, is fo nearly within the limits of the trade wind, that navigators generally fleer to it from the eaftward. The road of Santa Cruz lies on the eaft fide of the ifiand, at th€ end of a range of craggy hills, barren and very lofty ; along W'hich you fail W by S by compafs into the road, with a fea unfathom- able until near the fliore. The anchoring ground may be accounted from- fifty fathoms to twenty, or even fifteen. The bank is very fteep, and gives but little time to found ; for which reafon it fliould be done effeiflually with a heavy lead, or a fliip will be too near in before a ftranger is aware of it : he will likewife too foon expecft to find bottom, owing to the great deception of the adjacent high
D land.
i6' - A V O Y A G E T O
1788. land. To obviate thefe difficulties, it is neceffary to ob- jANUARi.^ ferve, that while a town, which lies fome diftance to the fouthward of Santa Cruz, is open with the callle on the fouth part of the road, though you may appear near to the fliore, there is no anchorage ; but after it is fliut entirely in, yoii get on the bank. The church bearing W, or W by S, and the fouth point of the road S W f S, to S W by W, is a good lituation for anchoring : the depth about twenty- five fathoms. The diftance from the lliore will be three quarters of a mile ; and the fouthernmoft land that can be feen then will be a half or quarter point of the compafs farther out than the fouth point of the road.
The bottom is black foft mud, with fome patches of rocks j for which reafon veffels, that lie here any length of time, buoy their cables. This precaution, belides being iifeful in that particular, they think makes them ride more eafy when there is much fea fetting into the road, which, with the wind any way to the fouthward of eaft, or at fouth-weif, muft be very confiderable ; it is, therefore, ufual to moor with four anchors, though more than two are fcarce ever of ufe. Mooring is, however, advifeable if a fliip is only to remain twenty-four hours, and the tighter the better, that the cables may keep clear of the ground.
The landing on the beach is generally impra6licable with our own boats, at leaft without great rifk -, but there is a very fine pier, on which people may land without difficulty if there is not much fwell in the road. To this pier the water is conveyed by pipes for the ufe of fhipping, and for which all merchant-ffiips pay.
There is a degree of wretchednefs and want among the lower clafs of people, which is not any where fo common as among the Spanifh and Portuguefe fettlements. To
alleviate
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c.
19
alleviate thefe evils, the prefent governor of TenerifFe has 1788. inftitiitecl a moft charitable Ibciety, which he takes the /''""*'*"; trouble to fuperintend ; and by confiderable contributions, a large airy dwelling, that contains one hundred and twenty poor girls, and as many men and boys, has been built, and endowed with a fufficiency of land round it, not only for all prefent purpofes, but for enlarging the building for more objects of charity as their funds increafe. I had the honour to be fliown by his excellency this afylum, (Hofpicio they call it) where there appeared in every countenance the ut- moll chearfulnefs and content. The decency and neatnefs of the drefs of the young females, with the order in which they were arranged at their fpinning-wheels and looms, in an extenfive airy apartment, was admirable. A governefs in- fpedled and regulated all their w^orks, which were the manu- fadluring of ribbons of all colours, coarfe linens, and tapes ; all which were managed and brought to perfection by tliem- felves, from the filk and flax in their firft ftate ; even the dy- ing of the colours is performed by them. Thefe girls are re- ceived for five years, at the end of which they are at liberty to marry, and have for their j^ortions their w^heel and loom, with a fum of money proportioned to the Hate of the fiind, which is affifted by the produce of their labour, and at this time was eftimated at two thoufand dollars per annum.
The men and boys are not lefs attended to : they are em- ployed in coarfer work, blanketing and all kinds of common woollens : if they become infirm, they fpend the remainder of their days here comfortably, and under a watchful in- fpedlpr, who attends them in the fame manner as the gover- nefs does the girls. They are all vifited every day by the governor, and a clergyman attends them every evening. By this humane inftitution a number of people are rendered
D 2 ufeful
20 AVOYAGETO
178S. ufeful and induflrions, in a country where the poor, from jANVARy^ ^l^g indulgence of the climate,' are too apt to prefer a life of ina6livity, thovigh attended with wretchednefs, to ob- taining the comforts of life by induflry and labour.
The number of inhabitants in the ifland, I was inform- ed, were eftimated at between eighty and one hundred thou- fand. Their annual export of wine is twenty thotifand pipes^ and of brandy half that quantity. VelTels are frequently here from St. Euftatia, and from thence a great quantity of Tenerifre wine is carried to the different parts of the Weft Indies, under the name of Madeira.
TenerifFe is conlidered of more value than all the other Canaries : the inhabitants, however, in fcarce feafons re- ceive fupplies from the Grand Canary; but their vineyards here are faid to be greatly fuperior. Their produce of corn> though exceedingly good, is not fufficient for their con- fumption ; and, owing to this, the Americans have an ad- vantageous trade here for their jELour and grain, and take wine in return.
The town of Santa Cruz is about half a mile in extent each way, built in a regular manner, and the houfes in ge- neral large and airy, but the ftreets are very ill paved. I am told, that they are fubjeft to few difeafes ; but if any epi- demic diftemper breaks out, it is attended with the moft fatal confequences, particularly the fmall-pox, the bad ef- fe6ls of which they now endeavour to counteradl by ino- culation. For this reafon, they are very circumfped: in admitting lliips to have commvmication with the fhore without bills of health.
Afloop from London, called theChance,VVi]liamMeridith, niafter, bound to Barbadoes, out nineteen days from the Downs, came into the road the day before we failed. She had
fuffered
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. ai
fufFered much by the bad weather ; but, having brought ,788. no bill of health, the governor would not allow any per- i""^^^'^ fon to come on fliore, unlefs 1 could vouch for them, that no epidemic difcafe raged in England at the time they failed, which I was able to do, it being nearly at the . fame time that I left the land^ and by that means they had the governor's permiffion to receive the fupplies they wanted, without being obliged to perforin quarantine.
Having finifhgd our bufinefs at TenerifFe, on Thurfday Thurfdayio. the loth, we failed with the wind at S E, our fliip's com- pany all in good health and fpirits.
I now divided the people into three watches, and gave the charge of the third watch, to Mr. Fletcher Chriftian, one of the mates. — I have always conlidered this as adelir- able regulation, when circumftances will admit of it, on many accounts ; and am perfuaded that unbroken reft not only contrib\ites much towards the health of a fliip's com- pany, but enables them more readily to exert themfelves in cafes of fudden emergency.
As it was my wifli to proceed to Otaheite without flop- ping, I ordered every body to be at two thirds allowance of bread : I alfo directed the water for drinking to be fil- tered through dripftones that I had bought at TenerifFe for that pvTrpofe.
In the evening we paffed the fouth end of TenerifFe, which is around lump of land, that, from the lownefs of the contiguous land, has at a diftance the appearance of afepa- rate illand. By our run from the bay Of Santa Cruz, I make the latitude of the fouth end of TenerifFe to be 28° 6' N.
We ran all night towards the S S W, having the wind at S E. The next morning we could fee nothing of the land. I now made the Ihip's company acquainted with the intent
of
22
A VOYAGE TO
1788.
January.
Thu;-fday 17.
Tuefday 29.
Thurfday 31.
of the voyage ; and, having been permitted to liold ot;t this encouragement to them, I gave aflurances of the cer- tainty of promotion to every one whofe endeavours fliould merit it.
The winds, for fome days after leaving TenerifFe, were moftly from the fouthward. Fifliing-Hnes and tackle were diftributed amongft the people, and fome dolphins were caught.
On the 17th the wind came round to the N E, and con- tinued fteady in that quarter till the 25th ; on which day, at noon, we were in 3° 54' N. As the cloudinefs of the fky gave us reafon to expe6l much rain, we prepared the awnings with hofes for the convenience of faving water, in which we were not difappointed. From this time to qiir meeting with the S E trade wind we had much wet wea- ther, the air clofe and fultry, with calms, and light vari- able winds, generally from the fouthward.
On the 29th there was fo heavy a fall of rain that we caught feven hundred gallons of water.
On the 31ft, latitude at noon, 2° 5' N, found a current fet- ting to the N E, at the rate of fourteen miles in the twenty- four hours. The thermometer was at 82° in the fliade, and 81° I at the furface of the fea, fo that the air and the water were within half a degree of the fame temperature. At eight o'clock in the evening we obferved a violent rip- ling in the fea, about half a mile to the N W of us, which had very much the appearance of breakers. This I imagine to have been occafioned by a large fchool (or multitude) of fifli, as it was exacflly in the track the fliip had pafled, fa that if any real Ihoal had been there, we muft have feen it at the clofe of the evening, when a careful look-out was always kept. However, if it had appeared a-head of us, I inftead
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec.
23
Januart.
February. Saturday 2.
Monda/ 4.
inftead of a-ftern, I flioukl certainly have tacked to avoid it. To fuch appearances 1 attribute the accounts of many fhoals within the tropics, which cannot be found any where but in maps. Our latitude at this time was 2° 8' N, and longitude 19'' 43' W. The next day we had more of thefe appearances, from the number of fchools of fifli by which the fliip was furrounded.
Saturday the 2d. This morning, we faw a fail to the N N W, but at too great a diftance to diftinguidi what fhe was.
Monday the 4th. Had very heavy rain ; during which we nearly filled all our empty water cafks. So much wet weather, with the clofenefs of the air, covered every thing with mildew. The fhip was aired below with fires, and frequently fprinkled with vinegar ; and every little in- terval of dry weather was taken advantage of to open all the hatchways, and clean the fliip, and to have all the people's wet things wafhed and dried.
With this weather, and light unfteady winds, we ad- vanced but 2 1 degrees in twelve days; at the end of which time we were relieved by the S E trade wind, which we fell in with on the 6th at noon, in latitude i" 21' N, and longi- tude 20° 42' VV.
The next afternoon we crofled the equino6tial line, in Thurfday;. longitude 21° 50' W. The weather became fine, and the S E trade wind was frefh and fteady, with which we kept a point free from the wind, and got to the fouthward at a good rate.
The weather continuing dry, we put feme of our bread in cafks, properly prepared for its reception, to preferve it from vermin : this experiment, we afterwards found, an- fwered exceedingly well.
On the i6th, at day-light, we faw a fail to the fouth- Saturday 16.
ward.
24
A VOYAGE TO
i;
ward. Tiie next day we came up with her, and found her February, ^q \jq j-j-^g Britifli QuecH, Simon Paul, mafter, from London, bound to the Cape of Good Hope, on the whale-fifhery. She failed from Falmouth the 5th of December, eighteen days before I left Spithead. By this fliip I wrote to Eng- land. At fiui-fet file was almoft out of light a-ftern. Monday i8. Moiidav the 1 8th. In the courfe of this day's run, the variation changed from weft to eaft. According to our obfervations, the true and magnetic meridians coincided in latitude 20° o' S, and longitude 31° 15' W. At noon we were in latitude 20° 44' S, and longitude 31° 23' W. In our advances towards the fouth, the wind had gradually veered round to the eaft, and was at this time at ENE. The weather, after crofting the Line, had been fine and clear, but the air fo fultry as to occafton great faintnefs, the quickfilver in the thermometer, in the day-time, ftand- ing at between .81 and 83 degrees, and one time at 85 de- grees. In our paflage through the northern tropic, the air was temperate, the fun having then high fouth decli- nation and the weather being generally fine till we loft the N E trade wind ; but fuch a thick haze furrounded the horizon, that no object could be feen, except at a very fmall diftance. The haze commonly cleared away at fun- fet, and gathered again at fun-rife. Between the N E and S E trade winds, the calms and rains, if of long continu- ance, are very liable to produce ficknefs, unlefs great attention is paid to keeping the fliip clean and wholefome, by giving all the air poftible, drying between decks with fires, and drying and airing the people's clothes and bed- ding. Befides thefe precautions, we frequently wetted with vinegar; and every evening the pumps were ufed as ventilators. With thefe endeavours to fecure health, we pafled the low latitudes without a fingle complaint.
The
THE SOUTH SEAS, &:c.
25
Saturday sj.
The currents we met with were by no means regular, j^gj. nor have I ever found them Co m the middle of the ocean. Feor"*»^- However, from the channel to the fouthward, as far as Madeira, there is generally a current fetting to the S S E.
On the evening of the aift, a fliip was feen in the N E, Thm-fdayii. but at 'too great a diftance to diftinguifh of what country. The next day the wind came round to the N and N W, fo ^ "^^y Z2. that we could no longer confider ourfelves in the trade wind. Our latitude at noon v.-as 25°55 S, longitude 36°29' W. Variation of the compafs three degrees eaft.
Saturday 23d, towards night the wind died away, and we had fome heavy fliowers of rain, of which we profited, by faving a ton of good water. The next day we caught a fhark and five dolphins.
Tuefday 26th, we bentnew fails, and made other necelTary Tuefday 26. preparations for encountering the weather that was to be ex- pedled in a high latitude. Our latitude at noon was 29° 38' S, longitude 41° 44' W. Variation 7° 13' E. In the afternoon, the wind being w'eflerly, and blowing ftrong in fquails, fome butterflies, and other infedts, like what Ave call horfe- ilies, were blown on board of us. No birds were feen except fiieerwaters. Our dillance from the coaft of Brafil at this time was above 100 leagues.
Sunday 2d, intlie forenoon, after feeing that every perfon was clean, divine fervice was performed, according to my "ulual cuftom on this day. I gave to Mr. Fletcher Chrii- tian, whom! had before direcfled to take charge of the third watch, a written order to adt as lieutenant.
Saturday 8th. We were at noon in latitude 36" 50' S, and longitude 52° 53' W. The lafl four days, w-e feveral times tried for foundings, without finding bottom, though confiderably to the ^^'eftward of Captain Wallis's track, who
E had
Sunday 2.
Saturday 8.
a6 AVOYAGETO
1788, had foundings at fifty-four fathoms depth, in latitude' v_ ''^'^"•_^ 35" 40' S, and longitude 49° 54' W. This day we tried witb two hundred and forty fathoms of hne, hut did not find bottom ; at the fame time, obferving a ripHng in the water,, we tried the current by mooring a keg with one hundred fathoms of line, by which it appeared to run to the N N W, at the rate of a mile and a half per hour. By the noon obfervation, however, we were eighteen miles to the fouthward of our reckoning.. In the afternoon we faw a turtle floating, and, not having much wind, hoifted a boat out, and fent after it ;. but it was found tO' be in a putrid ftate, with a number of crabs feeding upon it.
The change of temperature began now to be fenfibly felt, there being a variation in the thermometer, fince yefterday, of eight degrees. That the people might not fuifer by their own negligence, I gave orders for their light tropical clothing to be put by, and iTiade them drefs in a manner more fuited to a cold climate. I had provided for this before I left England, by giving directions for fuch clothes to be purchafed as were necelTary. Monday lo. Monday loth. In the forenoon we ftruck foundings at eighty-three fathoms depth ; our latitude 40° 8' S, and lon- gitude 55'' 40' W. This I conclude to have been near the edge of the bank ; for, the wind being at S S W, we ftood towards the S E ; and, after running fourteen miles in that direilion, we could find no bottom with one hundred and fixty fathoms of line. In the night we ftood towards the W S W, with a foutherly wind, and got again into found- ings. The next day we faw a great number of whales of an immenfe fize, that had two fpout-holes on the back of the head. — Upon a complaint made to me by the mafter, I found it neceflary to punifli Matthew Quintal, one of the
I feamen,
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. a;
feamen, with two dozen ladies, for infolence and mutinovis 1788. behaviour. Before this, 1 had not had occafion to punifli . '^.^^'*'_, any perlbn on board.
On the I2th, we caught a porpoife, by ftriking it with Wedncfdaj- the grains. Every one €at heartily of it; aiid it was fo well liked, that no part was wafted.
On the 14th, in the afternoon, we faw a land-bird like Friday 14. ti lark, and pafled part of a dead whale that had been left by fome whalers after they had taken the blubber off. Saw, likewife, two ftrange fail. The next day, at noon, our Jatitude was 43'' 6' S, and longitude 58^ 42' \V. Had found- ings at feventy-five fathoms.; the bottom a fine greenifU fand. Saw two hawks.
On the i6th another fhip was feen to the W N W, ftand- Sunday 16. ing to the northward. Latitude, at noon, 43" 34' S. We con- tinued running to the fouthward, keeping in foundings.
On the 19th, at noon, by my account, we were within Wednefday twenty leagues of Port Defire ; but the wind blowing frefli ^'
from the N W. with thick foggy weather, I did not attempt to make the land. We pafTed a good deal of rock- weed, and faw many whales, and albatrofles and other fea-birds.
On the 20th, at noon, our latitude was 50" 24' S, and Thurfday co, longitude 65°5o'W. In the afternoon, the wind, which liad for fome time paft been northerly, fuddenly fliifted to the W S W, and blew hard. We fteered to the S S E ; and on the 23d, at two o'clock in the morning, we difcovered Sunday 23* the coaft of Terra del Fuego bearing S E. At nine in the ibrenoon we were off Cape St. Diego, the eaftern part of Terra del Fuego. Obferved the variation here to be 21° 23' E. The wind being unfavourable, 1 thought it more ad- vifeable to go round to the eaftward of Staten Land, than to attempt pafling through Straits le Maire. The two op-
E 2 pofite
28 A V O r A G E T O
17S8. pofite coafts of the Straits exhibited very different appear- ^^J^^^^ ances. The land of Terra del Fiiego hereabouts, though the interior parts are mountainous, yet near the coaft is of a moderate height, and, at the diftance we were from it,, had not an unpromiftng appearance. The coaft of Staten Land, near the Straits, is mountainoas and craggy, and remarkable for its high peaked hills. Straits le Maire is a fair opening, which cannot well be miftaken ; but if any doubt could remain, the different appearances of the op^- jxjfite fhores would fuffi'ciently make the Straits known.
I did not fail within lefs than fix leagues of the coafi:, that we might have the wind more regular, and avoid heing expofed to the heavy fqualls that came off from the - land. At noon Cape St. Anthony bore S, and the weftern- moft of New Year's Ifles S E i S, five or fix leagues. Latitude obferved 54° 28' S, longitude 64° 4' W.
The fight of New Year's Harbour almoft tempted me to put in; but the latenefs of the feafon, and the people being in good health, determined me to lay afide all thoughts of refrefhment, until we fliould reach Otaheite. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the eafternmoft of New Year's Ifles, where Captain Cook obferved the latitude to be 55° 40' S, bore from- us fouth four leagues. We faw the en- trance ifles of New Year's harbour ; at the back of which the land is very craggy and mountainous. This muft be a very convenient port to touch at, as the accefs to it is fafe and eafy. The harbour lies S S E, by compafs, from the N E part of the eafkernmoft of the New Year's Iflands.
About two leagues to the weftward of Cape St. John, I obferved the feparation of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken notice of, which has the appearance of Staten Land, being tl^ere divided into two ifkuids.
At
TH*E SOUTH SEAS, Sec.
29
1788.
MAR.CH.
At fun-fet, Cape St. John bore S S E five or fix leagues. The land hereabouts is of lefs height, and not fo rugged as near New Year's Harbonr. The night coming on, I could get no good view af the coaft near the Cape ; and at day- light, next morning, we were at too great a diftance.
Monday 24th. We had ftood to the fouthward all night, Monday 14., with the wind at W S W and SW. At eight in the morn- ing. Cape St. John bore N W, ten leagues diftant. Soon after we loft fight of the land.
From the reiult of my lunar obfervations, afllfted by the • time-keeper, I make the longitude of the weft fide of Straits le Maire to be 64° 48' W ; the eafternmoft of the New Year's ifles 63° 52' W ; and the longitude of Cape St. John 63° 19' W.
In our run from the latitude of 12 degrees S to 48' S,' the.fliipwas fet 2.° 30' to the eaftward by currents; and from the latitude of 48° S to Staten Land, the currents fef us to the weft ward 2° 43'; which I imagine to have been occafioned by an indraught into the Straits of Magellan,
From the time we loft fight of the land, to the end of the month, we were ftruggling with bad weather and contrary winds: but on the. morning of the 31ft the wind came to the N N E, and made us entertain great hopes that we fliould be able to accomplifli our paffage round the Cape without much difficulty. At noon we were in latitude 60'' i' S, and in 71° 45' W longitude, which is 8'-26' W of the meridian of Cape St. John. This flattering appear- ance was not of long continuance : in the night the wind became variable, and next day fettled again in the W and N W, with very bad weather.
On the 2d, in the morning, the wind, which had blown frelh all night from the N W, came round to the S W,
and
Monday 3J.
Apml. Wedncfday 2.
A VOYAGE TO
and increafed to a heavy gale. At fix in the morning the ftorm exceeded what I had ever met with before ; and the fea, from the frequent fliifting of the wind, running m con- trary dire<5tions, broke exceeding high. Our fhip, however, lay too very well, under a main and fore-ftay fail. The gale continued, with fevere fqualls of hail and fleet, the remain- Frida7 4. der of this, and all the iiext day. — On the 4th, the wind was lefs violent, but far from moderate. With fo Hnuch bad weather, I found it necejjary to keep a conftant fire, night and day ; and one of the watch always attended to dry the people's wet clothes : and this, I have no doubt, contributed as much to their health as to their com- fort.
Our companions in this inhofpitable region, were al- batroffes, and two beautiful kinds of birds, the fmall blue petterel, and pintada. A great many of thefe were fre- quently about the wake of the Ihip, which induced the people to float a line with hooks baited, to endeavour to catch them ; and their attempts were fuccefsfui. The method they ufed, was to faflen the bait a foot or two before the hook, and, by giving the line a fudden jerk when the bird was at the bait, it was hooked in the feet or body. Sunday 6. On the 6th the weather was moderate, and contmued fo till the 9th, with the wind veering between the N W and S W ; of which we were able to take advantage. Monday 7. On the 7th, obfcrved the variation 27" 9' E ; our latitude Wednefdayg. 6o° 24' S ; and longitude 75° 54' W. On the 9th, at noon, we were in latitude 59° 31'' Sj.and our longitude 76* 58' W, which is farther to the weft than we had yet been. The weather was now unfavourable again, blowing ftrong from the weft ward, with a high fea.
Oa
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. jl
On the loth, we faw fome fifh, which appeared fpotted, 1788. and about the fize of bonetos : thefe were the only fifh we ^ -.- j had feen in this high latitude.
The ftormy weather continued with a great fea. The fhip Saturday 12. now began to complain, and required to be pumped every hour ; which was no more than we had reafon to expedt from fuch a continuance of gales of wind and high feas. The decks alfo became fo leaky, that I was obliged to allot the great cabin, of which L made little ufe, except in fine weather, to thofe people who had wet births, to hang their hammocks in ; and by this means the between decks was lefs cronded.
Every morning all the hammocks were taken down from where they hung, and, when the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck, they were put in the cabin; fo that the between decks were cleaned daily, and air- ed with fires, if the hatchways could not be opened. With aU this bad weather, we had the additional mor- tification to find, at the end of every day, that we were lofing ground; for notwithftanding our utmofi: exertions, and keep- ing on the mofl: advantageous tacks, (which, if the wea- ther had been at all moderate, would have fufficiently an- fwered our purpofe) yet the greater part of the time, we were doing little better than drifting before the wind.
Birds as ufual were about the fliip, and fome of them Sunday 13, caught; and, for the firft time fince we left StatenLand, we faw fome whales. This morning, owing to the violent rfiotion of the fliip, the cook fell and broke one of his ribs, and ano- ther man, by a fall, diflocated his flioulder. The gunner, who had the charg-e of a watch, was laid up with the rheu- matifm: and this was the firft fick hft that appeared onboard the fliip. The time of full moon, which was approaching,
made
33 A V O Y A G E T O
'788. made me entertain hopes, that, after that period we
April. . /-, ,-
i_ -.- _■ ihoiild experience lome change of wmd or weather in our favour; but the event did not at all anfwer our expectations. The latitude, at noon this day, was 58' 9'S, and longitude 76° i' W.
As -we caught a good many birds, but Which were all lean, and tafted fiihy, we tried an experiment upon them, which fucceeded admirably. By keeping them cooped up, and cramming them with ground corn, they improved wonderfully in a fliort time ; fo that the pintada birds be- came as fine as ducks, and the ilbatrolTes were as fat, and not inferior in tafte to fine geefe. Some of the latter birds were caught that rneafured feven feet between the extre- mities of the wings, when fpread. This unexpedled fup- ply came *very opportunely; for none of our live flock remained except hogs, the fheep and poultry not being hardy enough to ftand the feverity of the weather.
£unday,2o. ' This momiug, the wind died away, and we had a calm for a few hours, which gave us hopes that the next would be a more favourable wind. A hog was killed -for the Ihip's company, which gave them an excellent meal. Towards noon, to o\ir great difappoint- ment, the wind fprung up again from the weflward, and in the afternoon blew ftrong, with fnow and hail fi:orms.
Monday 2 J. This was the fccoud day after the full moon-; but, as I have remarked before, it had no influence on tl\e wea- ther. At noon our latitiide was 58° 31'' S, and longitude 70° 7' W, which is near feven degrees to theeaftward of our, fituation on the morning of the -9th inftant, when we had advanced the fartheft in our power to the weftward, being then in 76° 58' W, three degrees to the weft of Cape De- .feada, the weft part of the Straits of Magellan j and
.at
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 33
at this time \vc were 3' 52 to the call of it, and hourly 1788.
, ^ , ' A p n I r,.
lolmg ground. ^ _ __ ^
It was with much concern I law how hopelefs, and even unjuftifiable it was, to perlilt any longer in attempting a pallage this way to the Society Illands. We had been thirty days in this tempelluous ocean. At one time we had advanced fo far to the wellward as to have a fair profpedl: of making our palVage round ; but from tliat period hard gales of wefterly wind had continued without intermiliion, a few hours excepted, which, to borrow an exprellion in Lord Anfon's voyage, were " like the elements drawing " breath to return upon us with redoubled violence." The feafon was now too far advanced for us to expert more favoiu'able winds or weather, and we had fufficiently ex- perienced the impoflibility of beating round againft the wind, or of advancing at all without the help of a fair wind, for which there was little reafon to hope. Another confideration, which had great weight with me, was, that if I perfifted in my attempt this way, and fliould, after all, fail to get round, it would occallon fuch a lofs of time, that our arrival at Otaheite, foon enough to return in the proper fealbn by the Eaft Indies, would be rendered pre- carious. On the other hand, the prevalence of the wefter- ly winds in high fouthern latitudes, left me no realbn to doubt of making a quick pafPage to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to the eaftward round New Holland. Having maturely confidered all circumftances, I determin- ed to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope ; and at five o'clock on the evening of the 22d, the wind then blowing xuefdayzz. ftrong at weft, I ordered the helm to be put a weather, to the great joy of every perfon on board. Our fick lift at this time had increafed to eight, moftly with rheumatic
F complaints :
34 AVOYAGETO
April.
complaints : in other refpedts the people were in good health, though exceedingly jaded.
The paiTage round Cape Horn, into the South Seas, during the fummer months, has feldom been attended with difficulty, and is to be preferred, in the moderate fea- fons, to the more diftant route to the eaftward, round the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland. If we had been one month earlier, or perhaps lefs, I doubt not but we lliould have effected our palTage.
The foundings that are met with off the coafl of Ame- rica, from the latitude of 36° S to the fouthward, are very convenient to enable lliips to judge of their diftance from the land, as thick fogs are very frequent near that coaft. If the winds are favourable, to go through Straits le Maire muft confiderably llrorten the paffage round Cape Horn, as all the diftance faved is fo much gained to the weft- ward. I am informed, that feveral harbours have been lately difcovered by the South Sea whalers, on the north fide of Staten Illand, that afford fafe anchorage, with fupplies of wood and water. -
While we were off" Cape Horn, I did' not obferve that our fituation was at all affe<5ted by currents.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 35
CHAP. III.
PaJJage tozvards the Cape of Good Hope, and fearcb after trifian da Cunha. — Arrival at Falfe Bay. — Occurrences there. — Reports concerning the Grofvenor's People. — De- parture from the Cape.
THE wefterly winds and ftormy weather continu- ing, gave me no reafon to repent of my determina- tion. On the 25th, at noon, y/e were in latitude 54° 16' S, and longitude 57° 4' W. The neareft of the Falkland Illands, by my reckoning, then bore N 13° W ; diftance 23 leagues. Our flock of water being fufficient to ferve lis to the Cape of Good Hope, I did not think it worth while to flop at thefe iflands, as the refrefliment we might obtain there, would fcarce rejiay us for the expence of tinie: we therefore continued our courfe towards the NE and ENE. On the oth of Mav, at eight o'clock in the evening. May.
1 r- •r-rr-.-zn i , Friday 9.
we were near the lituation of Trillan da Cunha, our latitude being 37° f S, and longitude 15° 16' W. All the afternoon, the weather had been clear enough for land of a moderate height to be {^en at leaft Icven leagues ; I therefore concluded that we had not yet palTed the me- ridian of the illand ; for the mofl weflern polltion given to it from any authority, is i5''o'W.
As I wiflicd to make this ifland, we kept our wind on ditferent tacks during the night, that we might be nearly in the fame place at day-light in the morning, as on
F a the
36 AVOYAGETO
1788. the preceding evening : in the morning, no land being t ^-'_» in fight, we continued to fteer to the eaftward. Saturday 10. Wc Tan on all day, having clear weather, but with- out feeing any thing to indicate our being near land. At noon our latitude obferved was 37° 27' S, which being more to the fouthward than we had reafon to expedt, I altered the courfe to the northward, and fleered N E all the afternoon. At fix o'clock in the evening, we were in latitude 37° o' S, and longitude 12° 42' W, hav- ing a clear horizon, but not the leaft fign of being in the neighbourhood of land. With the night came thick rainy weather, and we were now to the eaftward of the fituation afcribed to Triftan da Cunha ; I therefore determined to give over the fearch, and to refume our courfe towards the Cape of Good Hope.
The illand of Triftan da Cunha, by Robertfon's Elements, is laid down in 37° 12' S latitude, and 13° 23' W longitude. In Captain Cook's general map, prefixed to his laft voyage, it is placed in the fame latitude, but in 15 degrees W longitude. From our track, and the clearnefs of the wea- ther, I am convinced, if the latitude afcribed to it as above is corredl, that it is not to be found between the meridians of 16° 30' W, and 12° 30' W. On the 13th I had a num- ber of lunar obfervations for the longitude, the mean ef which agreed exactly with the time-keeper *.
In this paffage the weather was generally fo cloudy^ that I had few opportunities to make obfervations of any kind, except for the noon latitudes. I could not deter- mine when we croffed the line of no variation. The twa
• In Mr. Dalryniple's Colleftion of Plans, which I had not with me, the northernmoffi ef-the IJlaniis of Trijian d'Jcuuha is placed in latitude 37° 22' S, and longitude 13" 17' W. 1 tlunk it probable wc mifl'ed them by being too much to the northward.
neareft
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 37
neareft obfervations to it, were, the firft in vf ci' S la- >788-
May.
titude, and 26° 11' W longitude, where the variation of ._ -^- '_f the compafs was found to be 3° 17' E ; and the other in latitude 35° 30' S, and longitiide 5° 21' W, where I ob- ferved the variation 1 1° 35' W ; between thefe we had no intermediate obfervation for the variation.
Thurfday 22, at two in the afternoon, we faw the Table Thurfdayzz^ Mountain of the Cape of Good Hope. As it is reckoned- xmfafe riding in Table Bay at this time of the year, I fleer- ed for Falfe Bay. The next evening we anchored in the outer part, and on the forenoon of the 24th got the fliip Saturday 24. fecured in Simon's Bay, which is in the inner i:>art of Falfe Bay. When moored, Noah's ark bore S 35° E three quar- ters of a mile, and the hofpital S 72° W. We found lying here, one outward bound Dutch Indiaman, five other Dutch fhips, and a French fhip.
After fainting the fort, which was returned by an equal number of guns, I went on fhore, and difpatches were fenf away to Cape Town, to acqviaint the governor of our ar- rival. A Dutch fhip at this time lying in Table Bay, bound for Europe, I fent letters by her to the Admiralty. It is very nnufual for fhips to be in Table Bay fo late in the year, on account of the flrong N W wmds. April is the time limited.
I gave the necefTary directions for getting our wants fupplied. The fliip required to be caulked in every part, for fhe was become fo leaky,, that we had been obliged to pump every hour in our palfage from Cape Horn. This we immediately fet about, as well as repairing our fails and rigging. The fevere weather we had met with, and the leakinefs of the fliij), made it necefTary to examine into the Hate of all the flores and provifions. Of the latter, a good deal was found damaged, particularly the bread. — The
8 time-keeper
38 AVOYAGETO
May,
time-keeper I took on fliore to afcertain its rate, and other inflruments, to make the neceffary aftronoraical ohferva- tions. — Frefh meat, with foft bread, and plenty of vege- tables, were ilTued daily to the fhip's company, the whole time we remained here. A few days after our arrival, I went over to Cape Town, and waited on his excellency M. Vander Graaf, the governor, who obligingly arranged matters fo much to onr advantage, that we fcarcely felt the inconvenience of being at a diftance from the Cape Town, whence we received all our fupplies.
The Cape Town is conliderably increafed within the laft eight years. Its refpedtability, wdth regard to ftrength, has kept pace with its other enlargements, and rendered it very fecure agaiiift any attempt which is not made with confiderable force. Great attention is paid to military order and difcipline ; and monthly fignals are eftablifhed to communicate with their lliipping as they arrive near the coaft, that they may not run unawares into the hands of an enemy. I found every thing much dearer than when I was here in 1780. Sheep coft four Spanifli dol- lars each, and were fo fmall, that it anfwered better to purchafe the mutton, for the fliip's daily ufe, at four pence per pound.
During our ftay here, I took care to procure feeds and plants that would be valuable at Otaheite, and the dif- ferent places we might touch at in our way .thither. In this I was grea<:ly affifted by colonel Gordon, the cora- •mander of the tro.ops. In company with this gentleman^ thelofs of the GrofvenorEaft Indiaman was mentioned: on this fubjedt, colonel Gordon expreffed great concern, that, from any thing he had faid, hopes w^ere ftill entertained to flatter the aftedionate whiles of the furviving friends fof thofe unfortunate people. .I5e Aid that, in his U'a-
vels
THE SOUTH SEAS, See.
39
vels into the Caffre country, he had met with a native who defcribed to him, that there was a white woman iJllT-Il among his countrymen, who had a child, and that flie fre- quently embraced the child, and cried moft violently. This was all he (the colonel) could underftand ; and, being then on his return home, with his health much impaired by fatigue, the only thing that he could do, was to make a friend of the native, by prefents, and promifes of reward, on condition that he would take a letter to this woman, and bring him back an anfwer. Accordingly he wrote letters in Englifh, French, and Dutch, defiring, that fome lign or mark might be returned, either by writing with a burnt Itick, or by any means Ihe fhould be able to deviie, to fatisfy him that flie was there ; and that on re- ceiving fuch token from her, every effort fliould be made to enfure her fafety and efcape. But the Caffre, although apparently delighted with the commiflion which he had undertaken, never retiu-ned, nor has the colonel ever heard any thing more of liim, though he had been inftrudled in methods of conveying information through the Hot?- tentot country.
To this account, that I may not again have occallon to introduce fo melancholy a fubje6l, I lliall add the little in- formation. I received refpe6ling it, when I re-vilited the Gape, in my return towards Europe. — A reputable far- mer, of the name of Holhoufen,. who lives at Sv.^ellendam, eight days journey from the Gape,, had information from Ibme Gaffre Hottentots, that at a crawl, or village, in their country, there were white men and women. On this in- telligence, Mr. Holhoufcn alked pcrmiffion of the go- vernor to make an expedition, with fome of the farmers, into the country, requiring a thoufand rix-doilai^s to bear his expences. The governor referred him to Mr. Wocke, 6 the
40 AVOYAGETO
1788. the Landros of Graverennet, a new colony, in his way. ^''^- But from the place where Mr. Holhoufen lives, to the Landros, Mr. Wocke's refidence, is a month's journey, which he did not chufe to undertake at an uncertainty, as Mr. Wocke might have difapproved of the enterprize. It was in Odtoher laft that Mr. Holhoufen offered to go on this fervice; He was one of the party who went along the fea-coaft in fearch of thefe unfortunate people, when a few of them firft made their appearance at the Cape. I am, however, informed, that the Dutch farmers are fond of making expeditions into the country, that they may have opportunities of taking away cattle ; and this, I ap- prehend, to be one of the chief reafons why undertakings of this kind are not encouraged.
On the 13th of June, the Dublin Eaft Indiaman arrived from England ; on board of which fhip, was a party of the 77th regiment, under the command of colonel Balfour.
The refult of my lunar obfervations gave for the longi- tude of Simon's Bay, 18° 48' 34'' E ; tlie latitude 34° 11' 34" S. The time-keeper likewife made the longitude 18' 47' E. The longitude, as eftabliflied by former obfervations, is 18° 33' E. The variation of the compafs on fhore was 24° 4' W ; but, on board of the fhip, it was only aa" 28' W. — The time of high water was three quarters paft two on the full and change, and it then flowed fix feet.
With refpecft to the Cape Promontory, it lies about three miles eaft of the meridian of Simon's Town. All the tables of latitude and longitude place the Cape in 34° 29' S latitude ; but from many obfervations off it, with good inftruments, I make it to lie in 34° 23' S, which agrees with its fituation as laid down in major Kennel's map. The part which I call the Cape, is the fouthernmoft point
of
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 41
of the land between Table Bay and Falfe Bay ; but the Dutch confider the weftcrnmoft part of the coaft to be the Cape.
On the 29th, being ready for fea, I took the time- Sunday 2> keeper and inftrum^ nts on board. The error of the time-keeper was 3' 33 ', a too flow for the mean time at Greenwich, and its rate of going 3" per day, lofing. The thermometer, dunLg our ftay here, was from 51 to 66 degrees.
We had been thirty-eight days at this place, and ^Jw^tr. my people had received all the advantage that could be derived from the refrefliments of every kind that are here to be met with. We failed at four o'clock this afternoon, and faluted the platform with thirteen guns as we ran out ojf the bay, which were returnedt
Tuefday i.
CHAP.
4a AVOYAGETO
C H A P. IV.
Pq[fage towards Van Diemen's Land. — Make the IJland of St. Paul. — Arrival in Adventure Bay. — Natives feen.- — Sail from Van Bienun's Land..
1788. "^XZ^ ^°^ fight of the land the day after leaving Falfe juLv. YY Bay, and fleered towards the ESE, h a vmg varia- ble winds the firft week, with much thunder, lightning-, and rain. The remainder of this paffage, the winds were moftly between the S and W, blowing ftrong. There were almofl: every day great numbers of pintada, alba- troffes, blue petterels, and other oceanic birds, about us ; but it was obferved, that if the wind came from the north- ward, only for a few hours, the birds generally left us,, and their prefenee again was the forerunner of a foutherly wind.
Sunday 13. The Variation of the compafs was 30° 34' W, which was the greateft variation we found in this track. Our latitude 36° 28' S, and longitude 39° o' E.
Sunday 20. The latitude, at noon, was 40° 30' S, and longitude 60° 7' E. We were at this time fcudding under the fore-fail and clofe-reefed main-top-fail, the wind blow- ing ftrong from the weft. An hour after noon the gale in- creafed, and blew with fo much violence, that the fliip was almoft driven forecaftle under, before we could get the fails clewed up. As foon as the fails were taken in, we brought the Ihip to the wind, lowered the lower yards,
and
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &:c. .43
and got the top-galbnt-mafts upon deck, which cafcd the fliip very much. We remained lying to till eight the next morning, when we bore away under a reefed fore- Mondavi,. fail. In the afternoon the fea ran Co high, that it became very unfafe to ftand on : we therefore brought to the wind again, and remained lying to all night, without acci- dent, excepting that the man at the fteerage was thrown over the wheel, and much bruifed. Towards noon, the Tucfdayiz, violence of the florm abated, and we again bore aw^ay imder the reefed fore-fail. Our latitude, at noon, 38'' 49' S : in the afternoon faw fome whales.
We continued running to the eaftward in this parallel, it being my intention to make the ifland St. Paul. On Monday the 28th, at fix in the morning, we faw the iiland, Monday 2t. bearing E by N, 12 leagues diitant: between 10 and II o'clock, we ran along the fouth fide, at about a league diftant from the fhore. There was a verdure that co- vered the higher parts of the land ; but I believe it was nothing more than mofs, w^hich is commonly found on the tops of moft rocky illands in thefe latitudes. We faw feveral whales near the fliore. The extent of this ifland is five miles from E to W ; and about two or three from N to S. As we palTed the eaft end, we faw a re- markable high fugar-loaf rock, abreall of which, I have been informed, is good anchorage in 23 fathoms, the eaft point bearing S W by S, by true compafs. I had this information from the captain of a Dutch packet, in wliich I returned to Europe. He likewife faid there was good frefli water on the ifland, and a hot fi)ring, which boiled fifh in as great perfc<5lion as on a fire. By his account, the latitude, which he obferved in the road, is 38° 39' S ; and from the anchoring place, the ifland of
G 2 Amlterdain
44 « AVOYAGETO
Amfcerdam was in fight to the northward. We had fair •veather all the forenoon, bnt juft at noon, a fquall came on, which was unfavourable for our obfcrvation. I had, however, two fets of double altitudes, and a good altitude exasStly at noon, according to the time-keeper. The refult of thefe give for the latitude of the center of ' St. Paul, 38° 47' S.- The longitude I make 77° 39' E. The variation of the compafs, taking the mean of what it was obferved to be the day before we faw the ifland, and the day after, is 19° 30! W.
At noon, we were three leagues paft' the ifland. We kept on towards the E S E, and for feveral days continued to fee rock-weed, which is remarked to be generally the cafe after fliips pafs St. Paul's ; but to the weflward of it, very feldom any is feen.
August. In latitude 44° u6' S, longitude 122° 7' E, I obferved the WeaneHay variation of the compafs to be 6° 23' W. I had no oppor- tunity to obferve it again till in the latitude of 43° 56' Sj longitude 133° 16' E, when it was 1° 38' E ; fo that we had pafTed the line of no variation. In 1780, on board the Refolution, in latitude 44° 23' S, longitude 131° 28' E,. the variation, was obferved 6° o' W, which is a remark- able difference. We had much bad weather, with fnow and hail, and in our approach to Van Diemen's Land, no- thing was feen to indicate the nearnefs of the coaft, except a feal, when we were within the diftance of 20 leagues.
Tuefdayig., At two o'clock this aftemoou, we faw the rock named the Mewftone, that lies near the S W cape of Van Die- men's Land,-, bearing NE about fix leagues. The wind blew ftrong from the NW. As foon as we had pafled the Mewftone, we were flieltered from a very heavy fea,^ which ran from, the weftward. At eight o'clock at night
we
20.
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 45
vre were abreaft of the fouth cape, when the wind be- came light and variable. Saw feveral fires inland.
The Mewftone is a high bold rock, that lies five leagues to the S £ of the S W cape, and is the part that all fliips bovmd this way Ihould endeavour to make. Its latitude is 43° 46' or 47'. Several iflands lie to the northward, be- tween that and the main, among^ which, bearing N by W from the Mewftone, is a high rock much refembling it ; and N N E from the Mewftone, on the main land, is a remarkable high mountain, which, in this diredlion, ap- pears notched like a cock's comb ; but as viewed from the eaftward, feems round.
All the 20th, we wer6 endeavouring to get into Adven- Wdnefday ture Bay, but were prevented by variable winds. The next morning, at five o'clock, we anchored in the outer part, and at fun-rife weighed again : at noon, we anchor- ed well in the bay, and moored the fliip, Penguin Illand bearing N 57** k E, about two miles diftant; Cape Fre- deric Henry N 23° E ; and the mouth of the Lagoon Si6°E.
In our pafTage from the Cape of Good Hope, the winds were moftly from the weftward, with very boifterous weather: but one great advantage, that this feafonofthe year has over the iiimmer- months is, in being free from fogs. I have already remarked, that the approach of ftrong foutherly winds is announced by many kinds of birds of the albatrofs or petterel tribe, and the abatement of the gale, or a lliift of wind to -the northward, by their keeping away. The thermometer alfo very quickly fhews when a change of thefe winds may be expelled, by vary- ing fometimes fix and feven degrees in its height. I have reafon to believe, that after we palfed the illand St. Faal,
there
46 AVOYAGETO
August.
there was a weatherly current ; the fhip being every day to the weilward of the reckoning, whicli in the whole, from St. Paul to Van Diemen's land, made a difference of four degrees between the longitude by the reckoning and the true longitude. Thurfday The fliip being moored, I went in a boat to look out for the moft convenient place to wood and water at, which I found to be at the weft end of the beacl^ : for the furf, though conijderab],e, Wjas lefs there thai> at any other part of the bay. The water was in a gully about fixty yards from the beach ; it was perfe^ly good, but being only a colle(5tion from the rains, the place is; always dry in the fummer months ; for we found no water in it when I was here with captain Cook in January, 1777. — We had very little fuccefs in hauling the feine ; about twenty fmall flounders, and flat -headed fifh, called foxes, were all that were taken.
I foxmd no figns of the natives having lately freqviented this bay, or of any European velTels having been here fince the Refolution and Difcovery in 1777. . Froi;n fome of the old trunks of trees, then cut down, I faw flioots about twenty-five feet high, and fourteen inches in cii:- cumference.
In the evening, I returned on board. The next morn- Friday 22. ing, the 22d, at day-light, a jjarty was fent on fliore for wooding and watering, under the command of Mr. Chrif- tian and the gunner ; and I direiled that one man fliould be conftaiitly emj loy.ed in wafliing the people's clothes. There was fo much furf that the wood was obliged to be rafted off in bundles to the boat. Mr. Nelfon in- formed me, that, in his walks to-day, he faw a tree, in a very healthy Hate, which he meafured, and found to be
thirty-three
T H fe S O U T H S E A S, &c. 47
fhirty-thrcc feet and a half in girt ; its height was proper- 1733. tioned to its hulk. u^I^TIj.
Saturday the 23d, The furf was rather greater than Saturday ^j. yefterday, which very much'intcrruj^ted our wooding and watering. Nelfon to-day picked up a male opofTuin that had been recently killed, or had died, for we could not pefceive any wound, unlefs it had received a blow on the back, where there was a bare place about the fize of a fliilling. It meafured fourteen inches from the ears to tlie beginning of the tail, which was ' exadly the fame Ibngtli.
Molt of the forefl treies were at this time fliedding their bark. There are three kinds, which are diftinguifhed from erfch other by their leaves, though the wood appears to be th^ fam^. Many of them ai'e full one himdred and fifty feet high ; but mdft of thofe that we cut down, were de- cayed at the heart. There are, befides the forcft trees, fe- veral other kind's that are firm good wood, and may be cut for moft purpofes, except mails ; neither are the foreft trees good for mafts, on account of their weight, and the difficulty of finding them thoroughly Ibund. Mr. Nelfon alTerted that they llied their bark every year, and that they increafe more from the feed than by fuckers.
I found the tide made a difference of full two feet in the height of the water in the lake, at the back of the beach. At high water, it was very brackidi, but at low tide, it was perfedlly frefli to the tafle, and foap fliewed no fign of its being the leaft impregnated. We nad bet- ter fuccefs in filhing on board the fliip, than by hauling the feine on fliorc ; for, with hooks and lines, a number of fine rock cod were caught. — I favv to-day feveral eagles, fome beautiful blue-plumaged herons, and a great ViU"iety 9> of
48 AVOYAGETO
of paroquets. A few oyfter-catchers and gulls were gene- rally about the beach, and in the lake a few wild ducks.
Being in want of plank, I diredted a faw-pit to be dug, and employed fome of the people to faw trees into plank. The greater part of this week the winds were moderate, Friday 29. with uufettlcd wcather. On Friday ii blew ftrong from the S W, with rain, thunder, and lightning. We conti- nued to catch fifh in fufficient quantities for every body, and had better fuccefs with the feine. — We were for- tunate, alfo, in angling in the lake, where we caught fome very fine tench. Some of the people felt a ficknefs from eating mufcles, that were gathered from the rocks ; but I believe it was occafioned by eating too many. We found fome fpider-crabs, moft of them not good, being the fernale fort, and out of feafon. The males were to- lerably good, and were known by the fmallnefs of their two fore claws, or feeders. We faw the trunk of a dead tree, oi;i which had been cut " A. D. 1773." The fi- gures were very diftindtj even the flips made with the knife were difcernible. This muft have been done by fome of captain Furneaux's people, in March, 1773, fifteen years before. The marks of the knife remaining fo unal- tered, I imagine the tree muft have been dead when it was cut ; but it ferves to iliew the durability of the wood, for it was perfedlly found nt this time. I fliot two gannets ? thefe birds were of the fame fize as thofe in England; their colour is a beautiful white, with the wings and tail tipped with jet black, and the top and back of the head of a very fine yellow. Their feet were black, with four claws, on each of which, was u yellow line the whole length of the foot. The Lill was four inches long, wrth-o out noftrils, and very taper and fharp-pointed.
The
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 49
The eaft Ade of the bay being not Co thick of wood as 1788. the other parts, and the foil being good, I fixed on it, at .^"''"^"^•. Nelfon's recommendation, as the moil proper fituation for planting fome of the fruit-trees which I had brought from the Cape of Good Hope. A circumftance much againft any- thing fucceeding here, is, that in the dry feafon, the fires made by the natives are apt to communicate to the dried grafs and underwood, and to fpread in fuch a manner as to endanger every thing that cannot bear a fevere fcorch- ing. We, however, chofe what we thought the fafeft fitu- ations, and planted three fine young apple-trees, nine vines, fix plantain-trees, a number of orange and lemon- feed, cherry - flones, plum, peach, and apricot -ftones, pumkins, alfo two forts of Indian corn, and apple and pear kernels. The ground is well adapted for the trees, being of a rich loamy nature. The fpot where we made our plantation was clear of i;nderwood ; and we marked the trees that flood nearefl to the different things which were planted. Nelfon followed the circuit of the bay, planting in fuch places as appeared mofl eligible. I have great hopes that fome of thefe articles will fucceed. The par- ticular fituations I had defcribed in my furvey of this place, but I was unfortunately prevented from bringing it home. Near," the watering place, likewife, we planted on a flat, which appeared a favourable fituation, fome onions, cab- bage-roots, and potatoes.
For fome days paft, a number of whales were feen in the bay. They were of the fame kind as thofe we had generally met with before, having two blow-holes on the back of the septem- head. ber.
On the night of the ifl of September, wc obfervcd, for Monday i. the firfl time, figns of the natives being in the neighbour- hood. Fires were feen on the low land, near Cape Frederick
II Henry,
s«
A VOYAGE TO
Henry, and at day-light, we faw the natives with our glalTes. As I expe(Sted they would come round to us, I remained all the forenoon near the wooding and watering parties, mak- ing obfervations, the morning being very favourable for that purpofe. I was, however, difappointed in my conjecture, for the natives did not appear, and there was too great a furf for a boat to land on the part where we had feen them. Taefday 2. The natives not coming near us, I determined to go after them, and we fet out, in a boat, towards Cape Frederick Henry, where we arrived about eleven o'clock. I found landing impracticable, and therefore came to a grapnel, in hopes of their coming to us, for we had paffed feveral iires. After waiting near an hour, I was furprifed to fee Nelfon's afliftant come out of the wood : he had wandered thus far in fearch of plants, and told me that he had met with fome of the natives. Soon after we heard their voices like the cackling of geefe, and twenty perfons came out of the wood, twelve of whom went round to fome rocks, where the boat could get nearer to the fliore than we then were. Thofe who remained behind were women.
We approached within twenty yards of them, but there was no poffibility of landing, and I could only throw to the fhore, tied up in paper, the prefents which I intended for them. I fliowed the different articles as I tied them x\p, but they would not untie the paper till I made' an ap- pearance of leaving them. They then opened the parcels, and, as they took the articles out, placed them on their heads. On feeing this, I returned towards them, when they inftantly put every thing out of their hands, and would not appear to take notice of any thing that we had given them. After throwing a few more beads and nails on ftiore, I made figns for them to go to the fliip, and they,
like wife,
2
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. I^i
Jikewife, made figns for me to land; but as this could not be efieded, I left them, in hopes of a nearer interview at the watering place.
When they firft came in fight, they made a prodigious clattering in their fpeecli, and held their arms over their heads. They fpoke fo quick, that I could not catch one fingle word they uttered. We recoUetSted one man, whom we had formerly feen. among the party of the natives that came to us in 1777, and who is particularifed in the ac- count of Captain Cook's laft voyage, for his humour and deformity. Some of them had a fmall flick, two or three feet long, in their hands, but no other weapon.
Their colour, as Captain Cock remarks, is a dull black : their fkin is fcarified about their flioulders and breaft. They were of a middle ftature, or rather below it. One of them was" diftinguifhed by his body being coloured with red oker, but all the others were painted black, with a kind of foot, which was laid on fo thick over their faces and flioulders, that it is difficult to fay what they were like.
They ran very nimbly over the rocks, had a very quick fight, and caught the fmall beads and nails, which I threw to them, with great dexterity. They talked to us fitting on their heels, with their knees clofe into their armpits, and were perfe(Stly naked.
In my return towards the fliip, I landed at the jDoint of the harbour near Penguin Ifland, and from the hills, faw the water on the other fide of the low ifthmus of Cape Frederick Henry, which forms the bay of that . name. It is very extenfive, and in, or near, the middle of the bay, there is a low ifland. From this fpot, it has the appearance of being a very good and convenient harbour.
H 2 The
Jt AVOYAGETQ
1788. The account which I had from Brown, the botanift's affifl-
^lll!*' ^nt, was, that in his fearch for plants, he had met an old man, a young woman, and two or three children. The old man at firft appeared alarmed, but became familiar on being prefented with a knife. He neverthelefs fent away the young woman, who went very reluctantly. He faw fome miferable wigwams, in which were nothing but a few kanguroo fkiiis fpread on the ground, and a bafket made of ruflies.
Among the wood that we cut here^ we found many fcorpions and centipes, with numerous black ants that were an inch long. We faw no mufquitos, though in the fum- mer months they are very troublefome.
Wh^at is called the New Zealand' tea plant, grew here in great abundance ; fo that it was not only gathered and dried to ufe as tea, but made excellent brooms. It bears a fmall pointed leaf, of a pleafant fmellj and its feed is contained in a berry, about the fize of a pea, notched into five equal parts on the top. The foil, on the weft and fouth fides of the bay, is black mould, with a mixture of fine white fand, and is very rich. The trees are lofty and large, and the underwood grows fo clofe together, that in many places it is impaffable. The eaft fide of the bay is a rich loamy foil ; but, near the tops of the hills, is very much in- cumbei"ed with ftones and rocks : the underwood thinly placed and fmall. The trees on the S, S E, and S W fides of the bills, grow to a larger fize than thofe that are expofed to the oppofite points ; for the fides of the trees, open or expofed to the north winds are naked, with few branches ; while the other fides are in a fiourifhing ftate. From this I do not infer, that the equatorial are more hurtful than the polar winds; but that the trees, by
their
T H E S O U T H S E A S, fee. 53
their' fitnation, were more flieltered from the one than from the other.
A calm prevented our faiUng to day. The friendly inter- view which we had had with the natives, made me exped; Wednefday tliat they would have paid us a vifit ; but- we faw nothing ''
more of them, except fires in the night, upon the low land to the northward.
The refult of the obfervations which I made here, reduced to Penguin Ifland, place it in 43° 21' 11" S latitude, and in l6ngitude 147° 33' 29" E, which fcarcely differs from the obfervations made in 1777. The variation of the compafs, obferved on Ihore, was 8° 38' E ; and on board the fliip 8°a9'E.- It was high water, at the change of the moon, at 49 minutes paft fix in the morning. The rife was two feet eight inches. Southerly winds, if of any con- tinuance, make a confiderable difference in the hjeight of the tides.
This forenoon, having a pleafant breeze at N W, we Thurfday^. weighed anchor, and failed out of Adventure Bay. - At noon the fouthernmoft part of Maria's Ifles bore N 52° E, about five leagues diflant ; Penguin Ifland S 86° W ; and Cape Frederick Henry N 65° W. In this poiition we had foundings at 57 fathoms, a fandy bottom. Latitude ob- ferved 43° 22' S.
The fouthern part of Maria's Iflands lie in latitude 43° 16' S. The country is not in general woody, but in fome of the interior parts, there appeared great abundance. Among thefe iflands, I have no doubt of there being many convenient places for fliiping. On the eafl fide, in latitude 42° 42' S, and longitude 148' 24' E, in July, 1789, Captain Cox, of the Mercury, found a convenient and fecure harbour from all winds, which he named I Oyl^er
54 AVOYAGETO
Oyfter Bay. Here he found wood, water, and filh, in great abundance. It has two outlets, and hes north, a little eafterly, diftant 34 miles from the fouth-eafternmoft ifland, or point, feen from Adventure Bay.
Adventure Bay is a convenient and fafe place for any number of fliips to take in wood and water, during the fummer months : but in the winter, when the foutherly winds are ftrong, the furf, on all parts of the fhore, makes the landing exceedingly troublefome. The bay of Frederick Henry may, perhaps, be found preferable, as it appears to be equally eafy of accefs. The foundings in Adventure Bay are very regular : near the weft Ihore, are fome patches of weed, but no fhoal or danger, the depth on them being from five to nine fathoms.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. .55
CHAP. V.
Rocky IJJands difcovered, — See the Ifland Maitea, and arrive at Otaheite. — Ship crouded by the Natives,
BEING clear of the land, we fleered towards the 1788. E S E, it being my intention to pafs to the fouth- ^"""* ward of New Zealand, as I expefled in that route to meet *— nr-** with conftant wefterly winds ; in which, however, I was difappointed, for they proved variable, and frequently from the eaftward blowiijg ftrong, with thick mifty wea- ther. The thermometer varied from 41 to 46 degrees.
On the 14th, at noon, we were in 49° 24' S latitude, and Sunday 14. in 168° 3' E longitude, which is on the fame meridian with the fouth end of New Zealand. We altered our courfe, fleering to the northward of eaft, and frequently faw rock- weed, which I fuppofed to have drifted from New Zealand. The fea now became rougher, from our being expofed to a long fwell, which came from the N E.
On the 19th, at day-light, we difcovered a clufter of fmall Friday ig. rocky iflands, bearing eaft by north four leagues diftant from us. We had feen no birds, or any thing to indicate the near- nefs of land, except patches of rock-weed, for which the vi- cinity of New Zealand fufficiently accounted. The wind being at N E prevented our near approach to thefe illes ; fo that we were not lefs than three leagues diftant in pafTing to the fouthward of them. The weather was too thick to fee diflinctly : their extent was only 3 5 miles from eaft
to
56 A V O Y A G E TO
to weft, and about half a league from north to fouth:: their number, including the fmaller ones, was thirteen. I
. could not obferve any verdure on any of them : there were white fpots like patches of fnow.; but, as Captain Cook, in defcribing the land of New Zealand, near Cape South,
.fays, in many places there are patches like white marble,'it i§ probable that what we faw might be of the fame kind
. as what he had obferved. The wefternmoft ofthefe iflands is the largeft ; they are of fufficient height to be feen at the diftance of feven leagues from a Ihip's deck. When the
•eailernmoft bore north, I tried for foundings, being tlien lo miles diftant from the neareft of them, and found bottom at 75 fathoms, a fine white fand : and again at noon, having run fix leagues more to the E S E, we had foundings at 104 fathoms, a fine brimftone-coloured fand. The latitude of thefe illands is 47° 44^ S ; their longitude 179° 7' E, which is about 145 leagues to the eaft of the Traps, near the fouth end of New Zealand. Variation of the compafs here 17° E. While in fight of the iflands, we iaw fome penguins, and a white kind of gull with a forked tail. Captain Cook's track, in 1773, was near this fpot, bufhe did not fee the iflands : he faw feals and pen- guins hereabouts, but confidered New Zealand to be the neareft land. I have named thena after the fliip, the Bounty Jfles. Sunday 21. This day we faw a feal, fome rock- weed, and a great many albatroflis. I tried for foundings, but found no bot- tom at 230 fathoms depth. Our latitude 47° 33' S, longitude 182° 36' E. jDcTOBER. Were in 40° 27' S latitude, and 214° 4' E longitude. It being calm, and a number of fmall blubbers about thefhip, I took up fome in a bucket, but I faw no difference be- tween
«^
Thurfday 2.
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 57
tween them and the common blubbers in the Weft Indies. 1788. We frequently, in the night-time, obferved the fea to be . ^1°L'^ covered with luminous fpots, caufed by prodigious quan- tities of fmall blubbers, that, from the ftrings which extend from them, emit a light like the blaze of a candle, while the body continues perfedly dark.
The 3d in the morning, we faw a feal. Captain Cook Friday j* has remarked feeing fea weed, when nearly in the fame place. Our latitude 40° 21' S, longitude 215° E. Variation of the compafs 7° 45' E. Being now well to the eaftward of the Society Illands, I fleered more to the northward.
We continued to have the fouthern oceanic birds ac- company us, and a few whales. The people caught alba- trolTes, and fattened them in the fame manner which they had done when off Cape Horn. Some of thefe meafured near eight feet between the tips of the wings, when ipread.
On Thurfday the 9th, we had the misfortune to lofe Thurfdayjj one of our feamen, James Valentine, who died in the night, of an afthmatic complaint. This poor man had been one of the moft robuft people on board, until our arrival at Adventure Bay, where he firft complained of fome flight indifpofition, for which he was bled, and got better. Some time afterwards, the arm in which he had been bled, became painful and inflamed : the inflam- mation increafed, with a hollow cough, and extreme dif- ficulty of breathing, to his death.
The 13th, in the afternoon, we faw two land birds, like Monday 13* what are called fand-larks. Our latitude at this time was 28° 3' S, and longitude 223° 26' E. The next morning we Tuefday 14. faw a tropic bird, and fome filh. The winds were light jmd variable, with calms, from this time to the 19th, when a
I, breeze
^§ A V O Y A G E T O
1783. breeze fprung up from the NE, which gradually came ^CTOBER.^ round to the eaftward, and proved to be the trade wind. Our latitude on the 19th, at noon, was 24° 13' S, longitude 222° 17' E. Variation of the compafs 5° 19' E. Saturday 25. On the 25th, at half paft feven in the morning, we faw the Ifland Maitea, called Ofnaburg by Captain Wallis, who firfl: difcovered it. At noon it bore S W by W | W, fix miles diftant. Our latitude 17° 50' S, longitude 212° 24' E. Va- riation five degrees eaft. As Captain Wallis and Captain Cook had both paflfed near the fouth fide, I ran along the north fide, which is remarkably fl:eep. The ifland is high and round, and not more than three miles in its greateft extent. The fouth fide, where the declivity from the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of refidence of the na- tives ; but the north fide, from the very fummit down to the fea, is fo fi:eep, that it can afford no fupport to the inhabitants. We fleered pretty clofe in to the north- - ward of the eaft end, where we faw but few habitations :
a very neat houfe on a fmall eminence, delightfully fituated in a grove of cocoa-nut-trees, particularly attra6led ovu* no- tice. About twenty of the natives followed us along fliore, waving and fhowing large pieces of cloth ; but the furf on the fliore was too high to think of having any communica- tion with them. I obferved a great number of cocoa-nut- trees, but did not fee one plantain-tree. There were other trees, but of what kind we could not diftinguifh : near the eaft end are two remarkable rocks, and a reef runs off to the eaftward about half a league.
The latitude of Maitea is 17° 53' S ; and by cup time- keeper, its longitude is i° 24' E from Point Venus. Varia- tion of the compafs 5° 36' E.
We continued our cx>urfe to the weftward, and at fix a - ill
THE ^OTJTH SEAS, &c. ^
in the evening faw Otaheitc, bearing WIS; the ifland 1788. Maitea, then in fight, bearing E i S, eight leagues diftant. Q*^^"'"*^ As there was great probabiUty that we fliould remain a confiderable time at Otaheite, it could not be expedled that the intercourfe of my people Avith the natives Ihould be of a very referved nature : I therefore ordered that every per- fon Ihould be examined by the furgeon, and had the fa- tisfacSlion to learn, from his report, that they were all per-^ fedtly free from any venereal complaint.
On the 26th, at four o'clock in the morning, having run Sunday 26^ tv/enty-five leagues from Maitea, we brought to till day- light, when we faw Point Venus bearing S W by W, diftant about four leagues. As we drew near, a great number of canoes came off to us. Their firft enquiries were, if wo were Tyos, which fignifies friends ; and whether we came from Pretanie, (their pronunciation of Britain), or from Li- ma : they were no fooner fatisfied in this, than they crouded on board in vaft numbers, notwithftanding our endeavours to prevent it, as we were working the fliip in ; and in lefs than ten minutes, the deck was fo full that I could fcarce find my own people. At nine in the forenoon, we were obliged to anchor in the outer part of Matavai Bay, in thirteen fathoms, being prevented by light variable winds from placing the fliip in a proper birth. In this ftation the weft part of One-tree hill bore S by E i E one mile diftant.
This paftage of fifty-two days from Van Diemen's land may be rated as moderate failing. We paiTed New Zealand with the fpring equinox, and the winds, though ftrong, were at no time violent. To the fouthward of 40° o' S they were variable ; between the latitudes of 40 and 33° S, the wind kept in the N V/ quarter ; afterwards, till we got into the trade, the winds were variable, moftly from the
I a eaftward,
«o AVOYAGETO
1788. eaftward, but light, and inclinable to calms. The Ihip October^ ^^^^ ^o ^^ -^^ longitudc to the eaftward of the dead reckon- ing, which the time-keeper almoft invariably proved. to be owing to a current giving iis more eafting than the log. Our track was as diftant from any courfe of former fliips as I could conveniently make it ; and though we made no new difcoveries, except the fmall clufter of iflands near New Zealand, yet in other parts of the track, as has been noticed, we met with ligns of being in the neighbourhood of land.
It may not be unworthy of remark, that the whole dif- tance which the fliip had run by the log, in direcft and contrary courfes, from leaving England to our anchoring at Otaheite, was twenty-feven thoufand and eighty-fix miles, which, on an average, is at the rate of an hundred and eight miles each twenty-four hours.
H
•v.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c, 6l
CHAP. VI.
Account of an Englijh Jhip lately failed from Otaheite. — Death of Omai. — Captain Cook's piBure fent on board. — Of 00 vifits the flnp. — His vifit returned, — Natives well difpofed towards us. — Accoimt of the cattle left by Cap- tain Cook. — Bread-fruit plants projnifed. — Viftt to the Earee Rahie. — Frefejits made to the Arreoys.
THE Ihip being anchored, onr number of vifitors con- 178s. tinued to increafe ; but as yet we faw no perfon that ^"^^""^^ we covild recollect to have been of much confequence. Sunday 26^ Some inferior chiefs made me prefents of a few hogs, and I made them prefents in return. We were fupplied with cocoa-nuts in great abundance, but bread-fruit was fcarce.
Many enquiries' were made after Captain Cook, Sir Jofeph Banks, and many of their former friends. They faid a fliip had been here, ffom which they had learnt that Captain Cook was dead ; but the circumftances of his death they did not appear to be acquainted with ; and I had given particular diredlions to my officers and fliip'a company, that they lliould not be mentioned. The fhip fpoken of, they informed me, ftaid at Otaheite one month, and had been gone four months, by fome of their ac- counts ; according to others, only three months. The cap- tain they called Tonah. 1 imderftood likewife from them,
that
6a» A V O Y A G E T O
1788. that Lieutenant Watts was in the lliip ; who, having been October^ -j^q^q j^-j ^^iQ Refolution With Captain Cook, was well known to them. — One of my firft enquiries, as will naturally be imagined, was after our friend Omai ; and it was a fenfible mortification and difapiDointment to me to hear that not only Omai, but both the New Zealand boys who had been left with him, were dead. Every one agreed in their in- formation that they died a natural death. Otoo, who was- the chief of Matavai when Captain Cook was here the laft time, was abfent at another part of the ifland ; they told me meffengers were fent to inform him of our arrival, and that he was expecEted to return foon. There appeared among the natives in general great good-will towards us, and they feemed to be much rejoiced at our arrival. This whole day we experienced no inftance of difhonefty. W^ were fo much crouded, that I could not undertake to re- move to a more proper ftation, -without danger of dif- obliging our vifitors, by defiring them to leave the ihip : this bufinefs was, therefore, deferred till the next morn- ing. Monday 27. Early in the morning, before the natives began to flock off to vis, we weighed anchor, to work farther into the bay, and moored at about a quarter of a mile diftance from the Ihore ; Point Venus bearing N i6° E ; the weft part of One- tree-hill S W by S ; and the point of the reef N 37° W ; the Ihip lying in feven fathoms water.
Several chiefs now came on board, and exprelTed great pleafure at feeing me. Among thefe were Otow, the fa-, thcr of Otoo, and Oreepyah, his brother ; alfo another chief of Matavai, called Poeeno : and to thefe men 1 made prefents. Two meffengers likewife arrived from Otoo, to acquaint me of his being on his way to the fliip ; each of
whom
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 63
whom brought me, as a prefent from Otoo, a fmall pig, and a young plantain-tree, as a token of friendfliip. The fhip was now plentifully fupplied with provifions ; every perfon having as much as he could confume.
As foon as the fhip was fecured, I went on fhore with the chief Poeeno, and accompanied by a multitude of the natives. He condud^ed me to the place where we had fixed our tents in 1777, and defired that I woiild now appropriate the fpot to the fame ufe. We then went acrofs the beach, and through a walk delightfully fhaded with bread-fruit trees, to his own houfe. Here we found two women at work ftaining a piece of cloth red. Thefe I found were his wife and her fitter. They defired me to fit down on a mat, which was fpread for the purpofe, and with great kindnefs offered me refrelhments. I received the congratulations of feveral ftrangers, who came to us and behaved with great decorum and attention. The people, however, thronged about the houfe, in fuch numbers, that I was much incommoded by the heat, which being obferved, they immediately drew back. Among the croud I faw a man who had loft his arm juft above the elbow; the ftump was well covered, and the cure feemed as perfedl as could be expecfled from the greateft profeflional fkill.
I made enquiries about the cattle that had been left here by Captain Cook, but the accounts I received were very unfavourable, and fo various, that, for the prefent, I fliall forbear fpeaking of them. After flaying about an hour, I got up to take leave, when the women, in a very obliging manner, came to me with a mat, and a piece of their fineft cloth, which they put on me after the Otaheite fafliion. When I was thus dreft, they each of them took one of my
hands.
€4 AVOYAGETO
hands, and accompanied me to the water-fide, and at part- ing promifed that they would foon return my vifit.
In this walk, I had the fatisfadtion to fee, that the ifland had received fome benefit from our former vifits. Two fhaddocks were brought to me, a fruit which they had not, till we introduced it. And among the articles which they brought off to the fliip, and offered for fale, were capficoms, pumkins, and two young goats.
On my return to the fliip, I found that a fmall difturbance had been occafioned by one of the natives making an at- tempt to fieal a tin pot; which, on being known to Oreepyah, he flew into a violent rage, and it was with fome difficulty that the thief efcaped with his life. He drove all his country- men out of the fliip ; and when he faw me, he defired, if at any time I found a thief, that I would order him to be tied up and puniflied with a fevere flogging.
This forenoon, a man came on board with Captain Cook's pidure, which had been drawn by Mr. Webber, in 1777, and left with Otoo. It was brought to me to be repaired. The frame was broken, but the pi6lure no way damaged, except a little in the back ground. They called it I'oote (which has always been their manner of pronouncing Captain Cook's name) Earee no Otaheite, chief of Ota- heite. They faid Toote had defired Otoo, whenever any Englifli fliip came, to fliow the picture, and it would be acknowlec^ed as a token of friendfhip. The youngeft brother of Otoo, named Whydooah, vifited me this after- noon : he appeared fl:upified with drinking Ava. At fun?^ fet all our male vifitors left the fhip. Tsefday 28. The ncxt morning early, I received a mefl^age from Otoo, to inform me of his arrival, and requefi:ing that I would fend a boat for him ; which I immediately did, with an oflicer
(Mr.
THE SOUTH SEAS, See. 65
(Mr. Chriflian) to condud: him on board. He came with numerous attendants, and exprefled much latisfadlion at our meeting. After introducing his wife to me, we join- ed nofes, the cullomary manner of fahiting, and, to per- petuate our friendfliip, he delired we fhould exchange names. I was furprized to find, that, inftead of Otoo, the name by which he formerly went, he was now called Tinah. The name of Otoo, with the title oi Earee Rabie, I was informed had devolved to his eldeft fon, who was yet a minor, as is the cuftom of the country. The name of Tinah's wife was Iddeah : with her was a woman, dreffed with a large quantity of cloth, in the form of a hoop, which was taken off and prefented to me, with a large hog, and fome bread-fruit. I then took my vifitors into the cabin, and after a fliort time produced my pre- fents in return. The prefent I made to Tinah (by which name I fliall hereafter call him) confided of hatchets, finall adzes, files, gimblets, faws, looking-glafies, red fea- thers, and two fiiirts. To Iddeah I gave ear-rings, neck- laces, and beads; but fhe expreflTed a defire alfo for iron, and therefore I made the fame aflbrtment for her as I had for her hufband. Much converfation took place among them on the value of the different articles, and they ap- peared extremely fatisfied ; fo that they determined to fpend the day with me, and requefted I would fliew them all over the fliip, and particularly the cabin where I flept. This, though I was not fond of doing, 1 indulged them in ; and the confequence was, as I had apprehended, that they took a fancy to fo many things, that they got from me nearly as much more as I had before given them. After- wards, Tinah defired me to fire fome of the great guns : this I Ukewife complied with, and, as the ihot fell into the fea
K . at
66 AVOYAGETO
i78». at a great diftance, all the natives expreffed their furprize
^CTOBER.^ ^^ loud lliouts and acclamations.
I had a large company at dinner; for, befides Tinah and his wife, there was Otow, the father of Tinah, Oreepyah, and Whydooah, two of his brothers, Poeeno, and feveral other chiefs. Tinah is a very large man, much above the common ftature, being not lefs than fix feet four inches in height, and proportionably flout : his age about thirty-five. His wife (Iddeah) I judged to be about twenty-four years of age : fhe is likewife much above the common fize of the women at Otaheite, and has a very animated and intelligent countenance. Whydooah, the younger brother of Tinah, was highly fpoken of as a warrior, but had the chara<Ster of being the greateft drunkard in the country ; and indeed, to judge from the withered appearance of his Ikin, hs mufl: have ufed the pernicious drink called Ava, to great excefs. Tinah was fed by one of his attendants, who fat by him for that purpofe, this being a particular cuftom among fome of
^ the fuperior chiefs ; and I muft do him the juftice to
fay, he kept his attendant conftantiy employed : there was indeed little reafon to complain of want of appetite in any of my^uefts. As the women are not allowed to •eat in prefence of the men, Iddeah dined with fome of her companions, about an hour afterwards, in private, except that her hufband Tinah favoured them with his company, and feemed -to have entirely forgotten that he had already dined.
Provifions were brought off to the fliip in the greateft plenty ; and, to prevent as much as poflible any thing which inight occafion difputes, I defired Mr. Peckover, the gun- ner, to undertake the management of our traffic with the 8 natives.
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 67
natives. Some of the hogs brought to-day weighed 20olb. and we purchafed feveral for faking. Goats were Hkewife brought off for fale, and 1 bought a fhe-goat and kid for lefs than would have piirchafed a fmall hog. — Our friends here exprefled much difappointment, that there was no por- trait-painter on board; Tinah in particular, who wiQied to have had pictures of his father and family.
An intimacy between the natives, and our people, was already fo general, that there was fcarce a man in the Ihip who had not his tyo or friend. Tinah continued with me the whole afternoon, in the courfe of which he eat four times of roaft pork, befides his dinner. When he left the fhip, he requefted I would keep for him all the prefents I had given to him, as he had not, at Matavai, a place fufficiently fafe to fecure them from being ftolen ; I there- fore lliewed him a locker in my cabin for his ufe, and gave him a key to it. This is perhaps not fo much a proof of his want of power, as of the eftimation in which they hold European commodities, and which makes more than the common means of fecurity requilite to prevent theft.
I had fent Nelfon and his afliftant to look for plants, and it was no fmall pleafure to me to find, by their report, that, according to appearances, the object of my miffioii would probably be accomplillied with eafe. I had given direcflions to every one on board not to make known to the illanders the purpofe of our coming, left it might enhance the value of the bread-fruit plants, or occafion other difficulties. Perhaps fo much caution was not ne- ceflhry, but at all events I wifhed to referve to myfelf the time and manner of communication. Nelfon met with two fine fhaddock-trees, which he had planted in 1777 > they were full of fruit, but not ripe.
K 2 In
OCTOBES.
6»' A V O Y A G E T O
October^
29,
In the morning I returned Tinah's vifit, for I found he expected it. He was in a fmall flied about a quarter Wednefday of a mile to the eaftward of Matavai point, Avith his wife and three children, not their own, but who they faid were relations. In my walk I had picked up a numerous attendance, for every one I met followed me; fo that I had collected fuch a croud, that the heat was fcarce bearable, every one endeavouring to get a look to fatisfy their curiolity : they however care ully avoided preffing againft me, and welcomed me with chearful countenances, and great good-nature.
I made Tinah underftand, that my vifit was particularly to him, and gave him a fecond prefent, equal to the firft, which he received with great pleafure ; and to the people of confequence, that were about him, I alfo prefented fome article or other. There were great numbers of children ; and, as I took notice of the little ones that were in arms and gave them beads ; both fmaU and great, but with much drollery and good-humour, endeavoured to benefit by the occafion. Boys of ten and twelve years old were caught up in arms and brought to me, which created much laughter ; fo that in a fliort time I got rid of all I had brought on fhore.
In my return I called on Poeeno, and an elderly chief, a relation of his, called Moannah, the principal men of this cUftridl, and with whom I judged it my intereft to be on good terms. I gave them feveral valuable articles; and, as the fituation here was eligible for a garden, I planted me- lon, cucumber, and fallad-feeds. I told them many other things Ihould be fown for their ufe ; and they appeared mu^h pleafed when they underftood I intended to plant fuch things as would grow to be trees and produce fruit. I
faw
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 69
faw large patches of tobacco growing without culture, and many pumpkin vines. — The bread-fruit trees and cocoa-nut trees at this time were full of fruit.
I went on board to dinner, and Moannah accompanied me. In the afternoon I returned to Poeeno's, with fome additional feeds to improve the little garden I had began to" make in the forenoon. While I was giving dire6lions, I received a meffage from Tinah, inviting me to come to him at his brother Oreepyah's houfe, which was near the beach. At this place I found a great number of peo- ple colledled, who, on my appearance, immediately made way for me to fit down by Tinah. The croud being or- dered to draw back, a piece of cloth, about two yards wide and forty-one yards in length, was fpread on the ground ; and another piece of cloth was brought by Oreepyah, which he put over my fliouldersj and rountl my waift, in the manner the chiefs are clothed. Two large hogs, weighing each above two hundred pounds, and a quantity of baked bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, were then laid before me, as a prefent, and I was dellred to walk from one end of the cloth fpread on the groiind to the other, in the courfe of which, Tyo and Ehoah * were repeated with loud acclama- tions. This ceremony being ended, Tinah defired I would fend the things on board, which completely loaded the boat ; we, therefore, waited till fhe came back, and then I took them on board with me ; for I knew they expedted fome re- turn.— The prefent which I made on this occafion, was equal to any that I had made before; but I difcovered that Tinah was not the fole proprietor of what he had given to me, for the prefent I gave was divided among thofe who, I guelTed, .
♦ Tyo and Ehoah arc words pf the fame figni£caUon; i. i, friend.
had
7^-
A VOYAGE TO
i78i!. had contributed to fupport his dignity ; among whom were Oe^oB^R.^ Moannah, Poeenah, andOreepyah; Tin ah, 'however, kept the greateft part of what I had given, and every one feemed fatisfied with the proportion he allotted them.
The Otaheite breed of hogs feems to be fupplanted by the European. Originally they were of the China fort, fliort, and very thick-necked ; but the, fuperior fize of the European have made them encourage our breed. I'hurfday 30. At break of day, Tinah and his wife came again to the fliip, and, as their attendants were numerous, I provided a breakfaft for them of broiled and roafted pork, which they preferred to tea. Our arrival being knowai all over the illand, we had this day a great number of ftrangers on board, who came from the moft remote parts, and in the forenoon fome hooks and thimbles w^ere cut but from the blocks. This induced me to order all the natives out of the fhip, except the chiefs and their attendants. In executing thefe orders, a daring fellow attacked the centinel, but eicaped among the croud. Every one knew^ the confequence of offending the centinel, and were exceedingly alarmed at the appearance of anger I thought necelTary to alTume. =
Among thofe who vifited us to-day, were two chiefs of great confequence, Marremarre and his fon Poohaitaiah Otee, Earees of the diftridls of Itteeah and Attahooroo. Otee was fed at dinner in the fame manner as Tinah. It was evident that the attention which I fliewed to thefe chiefs feemed to give uneafinefs to Tinah. At fun-fet^my vifitors took leave, and w^ere carried on fliore by one of the fhip's boats, which has always been regarded as a mark of diftindtion, and, on that account, preferred by them to going in their own canoes. At their requeft, a race was rowed between our five-oared cutter and one of their
double
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 71
October.
double canoes with four paddles. Great exertions were ufed on both fides, but the cutter firft reached the fhore. In their return to the fliip, Oreepyah flopped them, till a large piece of cloth, that he had fent for, was brought; ■which he tied to the boat-hook, and defired fliould be carried off as a trophy of their vidtory.
The next morning, at fun- rife, Moannah came on board Fri<iay 31. with a meffage from Tinah, to acquaint me that he was mattow (afraid to fee me) till he had recovered fome things that had been ftolen from the fliip, and which he had fent after. I knew there was fomething wrong, as no canoes came off to us, and, on looking about, we found the buoy of the befl: bower anchor had been taken away^ I imagine, for the fake of fome iron hoops that were on it. That this might not create any coolnels, 1 fent a boat to Tinah, to invite him and his friends to come on board ; which they immediately did, and were no longer under any apprehenfions. I had made an appointment with Oreepyah, for him to go with me to Oparre this morning ; but the accident juft mentioned caufed him to break his engagement, he having gone, I was informed, in fearch of what had been flolen.
Oparre is the diftri(Sl: next to the wefhvard of Matavai* One of my reafons for going to Oparre, was to fee if Nel- (bn would be able to procure plants there ; but I gave the credit of my vifit to young Otoo, the fon of Tinah, who- was the Earee Rahie, and lived with the reft of Tinah's- children at Oparre» 1 prepared a magnificent prefent for this youth, who was reprefented to me as the perfbnof the greateft confequence, or rather of the higheft rank, in the iiland. At noon I left the fliip, accompanied by Tinah, his wife Iddeah, and Poeeno. Moannah was to
hava
72 AVOYAGETO
October.
have been of the party, but he inlifted on remaining in the Ihip, to prevent his countrymen from attempting to Ileal any thing.
After half an hour's failing, we arrived at Oparre. Dur- ing this time,Tinah gave me a more circumftantial account of the cattle and flieep, that had been left with him : he -related, that after five years from the time of Captain Cook's departure (counting 63 moons) the people of the Ifland Eimeo joined with thofe of Attahooroo, a diftri6t of Ota- heite, and made a defcent on Oparre : that after fome re- iiftance, by which many men were killed, Tinah and his people fled to the mountains, leaving all their property to the mercy of the vi6lorious party, who deftroyed almoft every thing which they found not convenient to take away with them. Some of the cattle were killed and eaten, but the greater part were taken to Eimeo. The cows, he faid, had prodiTced eight calves, and the ewes ten young ones. The ducks, among which they clafled the geefe, had greatly increafed ; but the turkeys and peacocks, whatever was the caufe, had not bred. It feemed to give Tinah great plea- fure to obferve how much I was concerned for the deftru6lion of fo many ufeful animals ; but the caufe of his fatisfa6tion, I found, djxi not proceed from any expec- tation that I fliould replace them, but from the belief that I would take vengeance on the people who had de- prived him of them ; for with refpecSt to the lofs of the •cattle, he appeared fo unconcerned and indifferent, that I was very angry with him. There is, however, fuflicient -excufe for his refentment againft the people of Eimeo ; for the large extenfive houfes, which we had feen in this part of Otahcite, in the year 1777, were all deftroyed, and ■jaX. prefent they had no -other habitations than light flieds, 5 which
T H E S O U T II S E A S, &c. 73
which might be taken by the four corners, and removed 1788.
by four men ; and of the many large canoes which they u— v'.J
then had, not more than three remained. Tinah, under-
ftanding from my converfation, that I intended vifiting
fome of the other iflands in this neighbourhood, very
earneftly defu'cd I would not think of leaving Matavai.
" Here," faid he, " you fliall be fupplied plentifully with
" every thing you want. All here are your friends, and
<' friends of King George : if you go to the other iflands,
*' ypu will have every thing ftolen from you." I replied,
that, on account of their good-will, and from a defire to
ferve him and his country, King George had fent out
thpfe valuable prefents to him ; " and will not you, Tinah,
** fend fpmething to King George in return ?" — " Yes," he
faid, " I will fend him any thing I have ;" and then began to
enumerate the different articles in his power, among which
he mentioned the bread-fruit. This was the exa6l point
to which I wiflied to bring the converfation ; and, feizing
an opportunity, which had every appearance of being un-
defigned and accidental, I told him the bread-fruit-trees
were what King George would like ; upon which he pro-
mifed me a great many fliould be put on board, and feem-
ed much delighted to find it fo eafily in his power to fend
any thing that would be well received by King George.
On landing at Oparre, an immenfe croud of natives, as nfual, immediately thronged about us. I enquired for Oreepyali, whom 1 expected to have met me here, but he was not yet returned from his fearch after the thieves ; we therefore went under a flied of his to wait for him, and in about a quarter of an hour he joined us, bring- ing with him an iron fcraper, and one of the hoops of the buoy. I thanked him for the trouble which he had
L taken,
74 AVOYAGETO
October.
taken, and affured him that I was perfe(5tly fatisfied; far he ftill feemed apprehenfive of my difpleafure.
We took leave for a fhort time of Oreepyah, and I pro- ceeded with Tinah to make my vifit to the young Otoo, the EareeRahie. When we had walked about five minutes, Tinah flopped, and informed me that no perfon could be permitted to fee his fon, who was covered above the fhoulders. He then took off his upper garments, and requeued I would do the fame. I replied, that I had no objection to go as I would to my own king, who was the greatefl in all the world ; and, pulling off my hat, he threw a piece of cloth round my llioulders, and we went on. About a quarter of a mile farther towards the hills, through a dehghtful lliade of bread-fruit trees, we flopped at the fide of a fmall ferpentine river : here I was in view of a houfe on the other fide, at about fifty yards diflance. From this houfe the young king was brought out on a man's fhoulders, clothed in a piece of fine white cloth, and I was defired by Tinah to falute him by the name of 'Too Earee Rahie. The prefent which 1 had prepared "was divided into three parts, and two other children made their appearance in the fame manner. The firlt prefent I gave to a melTenger who attended for that purpofe ; and I was inllrudled by Tinah to fay, that it was for the Earee Rabie ; that I was his friend ; that I hated thieves ; and that I came from Britannia. The fecond prefent was fent in the fame manner, with a fimilar meffage, to one of the other children; and likewife the third.
As I could not fee the Earee Rahie dtflindly, I defired to be permitted to go over the river to him ; but this, it feems, could not be complied with : therefore, after fee- ing the prefents delivered, 1 returned with Tinah towards
Oreepyah's
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 75
Oreepyah's houfe. I was informed that Tinah had four children by his wife, Iddcah. Otoo, or Too, the Earce Rabie, appeared to be about lix years olJ : the fecond is a girl, named Terrcnah Oroah : the third, a boy, Terrectap- panooai ; and a fourth, an infant girl, whom I did not lee, named Tahamydooah.
When we came to the place where wc had firft flopped, Tinah took the cloth from my flioulders, and dellred me to put my hat on ; I exprefled a defire to fee more of the place, and he took me back by a different way. On pafling a trunk of a tree, rudely carved, I was dellred again to puil my hat off, and all uncovered their Ihoulders. This I difcovered to be nothing more than the boundary of the king's land ; on which, whoever fet their feet, uncovered themfelves out of refpedt.
We flopped at a houfe belonging to Tinah, where I was treated with a concert of one drum and three flutes, with flnging by four men. I made fome prefents to the per- formers, and we removed to Oreepyah's houfe, where, after paying my compliments to him, which I found was expetfled, Tinah made me a prcfent of a large hog, and fome cocoa-nuts. He then introduced an uncle of his, called MowAVoroah, a very old man, much tattowcd, and almoil bUnd. To this chief I made a prefent; and foon after I embarked, with Tinah, Oreepyah, their wives, and Poeeno. A vaft number of people were collected on the beach to fee us depart; and as foon as the boat had put off, Tinah defired me to fire my pocket piftol, the poopooe cte ete, as he called it : the report feemed to ele(5lrify the whole croud ; but finding rjo harm done, they gave great ihouts of approbation.
Nelfon, who accompanied me in this expedition, had
J> 2 but
October.
^6 AVOYAGETO
October.
but little opportunity to fearch after plants, the natives having crouded fo much about him : he faw enough, how- ever, to aiTure him tl:iat they were to be procured here as plentifully as at Matavai.
In our paffage to the fliip, which we rowed in one hour, nothing but Britannie was enquired after, and of the number of fliips and guns. When I told them we had fliips of loo guns, they could not believe it, till I drew one on paper : they then afked me if it was not as big as Tarrah, which is a high projecting head-land, half way between Matavai and Oparre, called by us One-tree Hill. Tinah much wiflied that one of thefe large fliips fhould be fent to Otaheite, and that myfelf fliould come in her, and bring him a number of things that he wanted ; among 'which he particularly delired beds and high- backed elbow chairs might not be forgotten : a requeft perfc6lly according with the indolent chara6ler of Tinah. November. As we had occafion to fix a tent on Point Venus, this Saturday i. j^gming wc movcd the fliip nearer to it, and moored again in fix fathoms, the point bearing N N E.
Tinah and feveral other chiefs dined on board with me. After dinner I went on fliore with Tinah, and made a vifit to his father, Otow. I likewife went to the garden which I had made near Poeeno's houfe, and found every thing- had been taken care of. After this, I was invited to an entertainment called Heha, which Tinah had ordered, and which confifted of finging and dancing by three men and a young girl. When this performance was finifned 1 re- turned to the fliip. Sumhy 2. At day-light,. I fent Mr. Chriftian with a party to eretft our tent, and foon after followed myfelf with Tinah, Moannah, and Poeeno, With their .confent I fixed a 4 boundary,
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 77
boundary, within which the natives were not to enter '788- without leave, and the chiefs cautioned them againft it. t_^!."_°^^.'
The principal ule of the tents on fhore was for a lodg- ment for the plants ; and I had now, inftead of appearing to receive a favour, brought the chiefs to believe that I was doing them a kindnefs in carrying the plants, as a prefent from them to the Earee Rabie no Britanee. The party at the tent coniilled of nine perfons, including Nelfon and his afliftant.
Tinah dined with me on board, and was to-day my onlv vifitor : neverthelefs, the ceremonv of being fed he fo fcrupuloully obfervcd, that, even after all the attendants Avere fent away, and we were left by ourfelves, I was obliged to lift the wine to his mouth. The wives of xh.t Earecs are fometimes fubjedt to this reftri6tion after the birth of a child, but are releafed after a certain time; on performing a ceremony called Oammo.
After dinner, Tinah invited me to accompany him with a prefent of provilions to a party of the Arreoys, a ibciety defcribed in the accounts of the former voyages : in this ceremony, he made me the principal perfon. Our way to the place where the offering was to be made, was by the fide of a river, along the banks of which I had always walked before this time : but on the prefent occafion a canoe was provided for me, and dragged by eight men. On arriving at the landing-place, I faw a large quantity of bread-fruit, with Tome hogs ready drefled, and a quantity of cloth. At about forty yards diftant fat a man, who, I was informed, was a principal Arreoy. A lane being made by the croud, he was addreffed by one of Tinah's people, ftanding on the canoe, in a Ipeech compofed of fliort fen- tences, which lafted about a quarter of an hour. During
this.
7S AVOYAGETO
this, a piece of cloth was produced, one end of which I was defired to hold, and five men, one with a fucking pig, antl the others having each a bafket of bread-fruit, pre- pared to follow me. In this order we advanced to the Arreoy, and laid the whole down before him. I then Ipoke feveral fentences dictated to me by Tin ah, the meaning of which I did not underftand ; and, my pronun- ciation not being very exa£t, caufed a great deal of mirth. This fpeech being finillied, I was fliewn another Arreoy, who had come from Ulietea, and to him likewife I was re- quired to deliver an oration. Tinah tinderftanding from me, that I had children in my own country, he defired me to make one more offering on their account. There flill remained three bafkets of bread-fruit, a fmall pig, and another piece of cloth : with thefe, affifled as before, I made the offering in favour of my children to the man whom I had firft addreffed. He made no reply to all my fine fpeeches, but fat with great gravity, and received every thing as a matter of right, and not of courtefy.
All that I could make out of this ftrange ceremony was, that the ^rr^oyj" are highly refpe(fted, and that the fociety is chiefly compofed of men diflinguiflied by their valour or fome other merit, and that great truft and confidence is repofed in them; but I could not comprehend what this had to do with my children, -or why it fliould be imagined that an offering made on theiii account to a fociety of men, who deflroy all their children, fliould be propitious. I learnt from Tinah, in talking about his children, that his firft-born child was killed as foon as it came into the world, he being then an Arreoy \ but before his fecond child was bor», he quitted the fociety. The Arreoys are allowed great latitude in their amours, except in times of 8 danger.
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 79
danger. Then, as they are almoft all fighting men (tafa 1788. toa) they are reftridted, that they may not weaken or ener- ^ °''^""^' vate themfelves.
Thefe ceremonies heing ended, I returned to the fliip.
Such of the natives, as I converfed with about the in- ftitution of fo extraordinary a fociety as the Arreoy, af- ferted that it was neceflary, to prevent an over population. Worrozv worroiv no te mydidde, "worrozv "joorrozv te tata. We have too many children, and too many men, was their conftant excufe. Yet it does not appear, that they are apprehenfive of too great an increafe of the lower clafs of people, none of them being ever admitted into the Arreoy fociety. The moft remarkable inftance, related to me, of the barbarity of this inftitution, was of Teppahoo, the Earee of the diftrift of Tettaha, and his wife, Tettee- howdeeah, who is fifter to Otow, and conlidered a& a per- fon of the firft confequence. I was told that they have had eight children, every one of which was deftroyed as foon as born. That any human beings were ever fo devoid of natural afFe<5tion, as not to wifli to preferve alive one of fo many children, is not credible. It is more reaibnable to conclude, that the death of thefe infants was not an adt of choice in the parents ; but that they were facrificed in compliance with fome barbarous fuperftition, with which we are unacquainted* What ftrengthens this conjecture is, that they have adopted a nephew as their heir, of whom they are excelTively fond.
In countries fo limited as the iflands in the South Seas, the natives of which, l>efore they were difcovcred by European navigators, probably had not an idea of the exiftence of other lands, it is not unnatural that an increaling popula- tion Ihould occafion apprehenfioiis of univerfal diftrefs.
Orders
»
So AVOYAGETO
178S. Orders of celibacy, which have proved fo prejudicial in 1°^!*- R. Qj-j^gj, countries, might perhaps in this have been beneficial; fo far at leaft as to have anfwered their purpofe by means not criminal. The number of inhabitants at Otaheite have been eftimated at above one hundred thoufand. The ifland, however, is not cultivated to the greateft advantage : yet, \vere they continually to improve in hufbandry, their im- provement could not, for a length of time, keep pace with an unlimited population.
An idea here prefents itfelf, which, however fanciful it
may appear at firfl: fight, feems to merit fome attention: — .
While we fee among thefe iflands fo great a waite of the
human fpecies, that numbers are born only to die ; and, at
, the fame time, a large continent fo near to them as, New
f Holland, in which there is fo great a wafte of land uncul-
f « tivated, and almoft deftitute of inhabitants ; it naturally oc-
' curs, how greatly the two countries might be made to be-
nefit each other; and gives occafion to regret that the iflanders are not inftru6led in the means of emigrating to New Holland, which feems as if defigned by nature to ferve as an afylum for the fuperflux of inhabitants in the iflands. Such a plan of emigration, if rendered practica- ble to them, might not only be the means of abolifliing the horrid cuflom of deflroying children, as it would re- move the plea of neceflity, but might lead to other im- portant purpofes. A great continent would be converted from a defert to a populous country j a number of our fel- low - creatures would be faved ; the inhabitants of the iflands would become more civilized ; and it is not impro- bable, but that our colonies in New Holland' would derive £0 much benefit as to more than repay any trouble or ex- pence.
THE SOUTH SEAS, Szc. Si
pence, that might be incurred in endeavouring to promote lb humane a plan.
The hitter, however, is a remote confideration, for the intertropical parts of New Holland, are thofe moft fuited to the habits and manner of living of the illanders; and like- wife the foil and climate are the beil adapted to their modes of agriculture. Man j'tlaced by his Creator in the warm climates, perhaps, wouhl never emigrate into the colder, iinlefs under the tyrannous influence of neceflity ; and ages might elapfe before the new inhabitants would fpread to our fettlers, though they are but barely within the limits of froft, that great caufe of nine tenths of the neceflities of Europeans. Neverthclefs, befides forwarding the pur- pofes of humanity and general convenience, in bringing a people without land to a land without people, the benefit of a mutual intercourfe with a neighbouring and friendly colony, would in itfelf be no inconliderable advantage.
Among people fo free from oftentation as the Ota- heiteans, and whofe manners are fo fimplc and natural, the ftridlnefs with which the pundlilios of rank are ob- ferved, is furprifing. I know not if any a<5lion, however meritorious, can elevate a man above the clafs m which he was born, unlefs he were to acquire fufficient power to confer dignity on himfelf. If any woman of the inferior claiTes has a child by an Earee, it is not fufFered to live. Perhaps the offspring of Teppahoo and Tetteehowdeeah were deftined to fatisfy forae cruel adjuftment of rank and precedency.
M CHAP.
82 AVOYAGETO
CHAP. VII.
j^ Theft committed. — Deception of the painted Head. — Con- verfation with a Priefl. — A Wrejiling Match. — Reports of the Natives concerning other Iflands. — Sojjie Account of Omai.
1788. ' I ^HE trade for provifions I dire(5ted to be carried on at
^''^_"°'^', A the tent by Mr. Peckover, the gunner. Moannah
Monday 3. Hkcwife refided there, as a guard over his countrymen; but
though it appeared to be the willi of all the chiefs, that we-
fliould remain unmolefted, it was not poflible entirely to
prevent them from pilfering.
My table at dinner was generally crouded. Tinah, Oree- pyah, Poeeno, and Moannah, were my regular guefts, and I was feldom without fome chiefs from other dillri 6ts. Almoft every individual of any confequence has feveral names, which makes it frequently perplexing, when the fame perfon is fpoken of, to know who is meant. Every chief has perhaps a dozen or more names in the courfe of thirty years ; fo that the perfon who has been fpoken of by one vifitor, will not perhaps be known to another, unlefs other circumftances lead to a difcovery. The father of Tinah, at this time called Otow, was known in 1769 by the name of Whappai.
I fhowed Tinah the preparations I was making to take on board the bread-fruit plants, which pleafed him exceed- ingly, but iie tUd not forget to remind me, that when the 3 next
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 83
next fliip came out he hoped King George would fend him ^ lyss- large axes, files, laws, cloth of all kinds, hats, chairs, and ,_ . _ V bedltcads, with arms, ammunition, and in Ihort every thing he coidd think, of mentioning.
This afternoon, the gudgeon of the rudder belonging to the large cutter, was drawn out and Itolen, without being perceived by the man that was ftationed to take care of her. Several petty thefts having been committed by the natives, moftly owing to the negligence of our own people ; and as thefe kind of accidents generally created alarm, and had a tendency to interrupt the good terms on which we were with the chiefs, I thought it would have a good efFedt to punifli the boat-keeper in their prefence, many of them happening to be then on board ; and accordingly I ordered him a dozen laflies. Tinah, with feveral of the chiefs, attended the punifliment, and interceded very earneftly to get it mitigated : the women fhowed great fympathy, and that degree of feeling which charadterifes the amiable part of their fex.
The natives brought off to-day two different kinds of roots that grow like yams : one they call Ettee, which is a Aveet root, common alfo to the Friendly Iflands, and may be eaten as a fweetmeat : the other they call Ap- pay, a root hke the Tyah or Eddie in the Weft Indies. A fruit called Ayyah, which is the jambo of Batavia, was likewife brought off to us : they are as large as middle-fized apples, very juicy and refrefliing, and may be eaten in large quantities. Alfo fome Avees, which are the real Ota- heite apple; but they were not yet in feafon. Thefe are a delicious high-flavoured fruit, and before they are ripe, anfwer the culinary purpofcs of our apples.
A chief called Tootaha, who came from the ifland Ulie- Tuefday4.
M 2 tea.
84 AVOYAGETO
tea, was introduced to me to-day, by Tinah, as one of his particular friends. I was told that he was a prieft, and a perfon of great knowledge. I delired Tinah to take w^hat he thought proper as a prefent for him ; and 1 muft do Tinah the juftice to fay, he was more fparing than I fliould have been. I hkewife received a vifit to-day from Oedii- dee, the man who had been at fea with Captain Cook in 1773 and 1774, as related in the account of that voyage- He ftill retained fome of the Englifli words which he had learnt in that expedition. WednefJay The wcathcr variable, with lightning, and frequent fliow— ^- ers of rain. Wind E N E.
This was the firft day of our beginning to take up plants : we had much pleafure in collecting them, for the natives offered their affiflance, and perfectly imderftood the method of taking them up and pruning them.
The croud of natives was not fo great as hitherto it had been : the curiofity of ftrangers was fatisfied ; and, as the weather began to be unfettled and rainy, they had almoft all returned to their homes ; fo that only the people of Matavai and Oparre remained with us, except a few chiefs , from other illands : our fupplies however were abundant; and what I confidered as no fmall addition to our comforts, we ceafed to be incommoded, when on fhore, by the na- ^ lives following us, and could take our walks almoft un-
noticed. In any houfe that we wiflied to enter, we always experienced a kind reception, and v/ithout officioufnefs. The Otaheiteans have the moft perfe£t eafinefs of man- ners, equally free from forwardnefs and formality.. When they offer refrefliments, if they are not accepted, they do not think of offering them the fecond time ; for they have not the leaft idea of that ceremonious kind of refufal
vv^hich
THE SOUTH SEAS, ?cc. 85
which expedls a fecontl invitation. In like manner, at ^ss. taking; leave, we were never troubled with Iblicitntions to ^^^°^'^^^- prolong our vifit, but went without ceremony, except making ule of a farewell exprefllon at parting. Another advantage, feklom found in warm countries, was, in this jjart of Otaheite being free from mulkitoes, though, at par- ticular time? of the year, the inhabitants arc peftered with great numbers of flies.
Moannah continued our conftant friend at the tent, and, with Tinah and all his friends, dined with me every day.
The fliip's barber had brought with him from London, a painted head, fuch as the hair-drelTers have in their fliops, to fliewthe different falliions of drefling-hair ; and it being made with regular features, and well coloured, I delired him to drefs it, which he did with much neatnefs, and with a flick, and a quantity of cloth, he formed a body. It was then reported to the natives that we had an Englifli woman on board, and the quarter-deck was cleared of the croud, that file might make her appearance. Being handed up the ladder, and carried to the after-part of the deck, there s
was a general fliout of *' Himbeitie no Brittanne myty^^ Huaheine fignifies woman, and myty, good. Many of tliem thovight it was living, and afked if it was my wife. One old woman ran with prefents of cloth and bread-fruit, and laid them at her feet ; at laft they found out the cheat ; but continued all delighted with it, except the old lady, who felt herfelf mortified, and took back her prefents, for which (lie was laughed at exceedingly. Tinah and all the chiefs enjoyed the joke,' and, after making many enquiries about the Britifli women, they ftri^tly Enjoined me, when I came again, to bring a fhip full of them;
Some very fine fugar-cane was brought to me ; each of
tke.
86- AVOYAGETO
the pieces was fix inches round. I had before told Tinah that our fugar was made of it, and he was very defirotis to difcover the means ; for they were fo fond of our loaf fugar, that a prefent to any chief would have been in- complete without a piece of it. Another article in great eftimation, and like wife expe6ted to make part of a pre- fent, was fciffars, which they made life of to keep their beards in order.
By this time Nelfon had, with affiftance from the fliip, completed a large garden near the tents ; in whicli were fown feeds of different kinds, that we had collected at the Cape of Good Hope. I likewife diftributed fruit-ftones and almonds for planting, among the chiefs, who, I hope, will endeavour to make them fucceed : and, as they are very fond of fweet - fmelling flowers, with which the women delight to ornament themfelves, I gave them fome rofe-feed. Thurfday6. We had Very variable weather, much rain, and fome wefterly winds ; fo that a confiderable fwell ran into the bay, and a number of fpotted white and black porpulTes made their appearance.
I had the mortification to fee that our garden-ground had been much trod over ; and, what was worfe, the chiefs appeared but little concerned at it. To this kind of care- lefihefs and indifference I attribute the mifcarriage of many of the plants left here by Captain Cook. I had now in a flourifliing ftate, two orange plants, fome vines, a fig-tree, and two pine-apple plants, which I gave to Poeeno, whofe refidence is a place favourable for their growth.
We got on fuccefsfully with our plants, having a hun- dred potted at the tent, and in a fair way of doing well.
The
T H E S O U T n S E A S, Sec. 87
The cabin alfo was completed, and ready to receive them on 17S8.
board. November.
I have before remarked, that my friend Tinah was ra- ther of a felfifli difpofition, and this afternoon he fliowed a ftronger inftance of it than I was witnefs to at any time be- fore or after. His brother Oreepyah fcnt on boartl to me, a prefent of a large hog, and a quantity of bread-fruit : but thefe kind of prelents are much more expenfive than purchafing at the market. Soon after Oreepyah himfelf came on board. Tinah was with me at the time, and whifpered me to tell Oreepyah not to bring any more hogs or fruit, and to take thofe back which he had fent. This advice, as may be fuppofed, did not produce the effedt intended. Oreepyah appears to be a man of great fpirir, and is highly refpedled by his countrymen. Among other vifitors to-day, was one of the men who had been to Lima, in 1776.
Our plants had now encreafed to 252: as they were all Saturdays;, kept on fliore at the tent, I augmented the guard there, though, from the general condu6t of the natives, there did not appear the leaft occafion for fo much caution.
While I was at dinner, Tinah defired I would permit a man to come down into the cabin, whom he called his Taoivab, or prieft; for I was obliged to keep a centinel at the hatch- way to prevent being incommoded at my hieals with too much company; a reftritlion which pleafed the chiefs, who always afked leave for any particular perfon to be admitted of whom they wiflied me to take notice. The company of the prieft brought on a religious converfation. He faid,, their great God was called Oro ; and that they had many others of lefs confequence^ He aikcd me if I had a God? — if he had a fon ? and who was his wife I I told tiiem he had'
a. fon,.
88 AVOYAGETO
178S. a fon, but no wife. Who was his father and mother ? was
. "^^'^J"^",' the next quefticn. I faid, he never had father or mother ,-
at this they laughed exceedingly. You have a God then
who never had a father or mother^ and has a child with-
' out a wife I Many other queftions were afked, -which my
little knowledge of the language did not enable me to an- fwer.
The weather was now fine again, and a great number of people were come from other parts of the ifland. Tinali informed me that there was to be a helva and a wreftling- match on fliore, and that the performers waited for our at- tendance ; we therefore fet off, with feveral of our friends, and, about a quarter of a mile from the tents, we found a great concourfe of people formed into a ring. As foon as we were feated, a dancing heiva began, which was perform- ed by two girls and four men : this lafted half an hour, and coniifted of wanton geflures and motions, fuch as have been defcribed in the account of former voyages. When the dance ended, Tinah ordered a long piece of cloth to be brought ; his wife Iddeah, and myfelf, were defired to hold the two firft corners, and, the remaining part being fupported l)y many others, we carried it to the performers, and gave it them. Several other chiefs made a like pre- fent or payment. The performers were flrollers, that tra- velled about the country as in Europe.
After this, the wreftling began, and the place foon be- came a fcene of riot and confufion. A party of the Ar- reoys alfo began to exercife a privilege, which it feems they are allowed, of taking from the women fuch of their clothes as they thought worth it; fo that fome of them were left little better than naked. One young woman, who was attacked, oppofed them with all her llirength, and held
faft
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 89
faft her cloth, though they almoft dragged her along the 1788. ground. Obferving that I took notice of her, flie held out j^^)!!^"' her hand, and begged my alTiftance; and at my requell flie efcaped being pillaged.
Soon after, a ring was again made, but the wreftlers were fo numerous within it, that it was impoffible to reftore order. In the challenges, they lay one hand upon their breaft, and on the bending of the arm at the elbow, with the other hand, they ftrike a very fmart blow, which, as the hand is kept hollow, creates a found that may be heard at a confiderable diltance ; and this they do fo frequently, and with fuch force, that the flefli becomes exceedingly bruif- ed, and, the fkin breaking, bleeds confiderably. At this time, the found from fo many refembled that of a number of people in a wood felling trees. This is the general challenge ; but when any two combatants agree to a trial, they prefent their hands forward, joining them only by the extremities of the fingers. They begin by watching to take an advantage ; at length they clofe, feize each other by the hair, and are moft commonly parted before either receives a fall. Only one couple performed any thing like the part of good wreftlers ; and, as they were an equal match, this conflict lafted longer than any of the others ; blit they alio were parted.
Itldeah was the general umpire, and fhe managed with fo much addrefs as to prevent any quarrelling, and there was no murmuring at her decillons. As her perfon waS' large, fhe was very confpicuous in the circle. Tinah took no part in the management. Upon the whole, this per- formance gave me a better opinion of their ftrength than of their fkill or dexterity.
For fomc time paft, Tinah had talked of going to the Tuefday ui
N illand ,
9b AVOYAGETO
November,
ifland of Tethuroa, which lies eight or ten leagues north from Otaheite, to fetch his mother; but I found I had only half underftood him ; for this morning he enquired when we were to fail there in the fhip : however he feemed to feel no great difappointment at my not complying with his Willi. Tethuroa, he informed me, is the property of his family. He likewife fpoke to me about an ifland called Koo-opow, the fitnation of which he defcribed to be to the eaftward -of Otaheite four or five days fail, and that there were large animals upon it with eight legs. The truth of this account he very ftrenuoufly infifted iipon, and wifhed me to go thither with him. I was at a lofs to know whether or not Tinah himfelf gave credit to this whimlical and fabulous account; for though they have credulity fufficient to believe any thing, however improba- ble, they are at the fame time fo much addidled to that fpecies of wit which we call humbug, that it is frequently difficult to difcover whether they are in jeft or earneft. Their ideas of geography are very fimple : they believe the world to be a fixed plane of great extent ; and that the fun, moon, and ftars, are all in motion round it. I have been frequently afked by them, if I have not been as far as the fun and moon ; for they think we are fuch great travellers, that fcarce any undertaking is beyond our ability^
Another ifland, called Tappuhoi, fituated likewife to the eaftward, was defcribed to me by Tinah, the ii^habitants of which were faid to be all warriors, and that the people of Otaheite did not dare to go there. He told me, that very lately a canoe from Tappuhoi was at the ifland Maitea ; that as foon as they landed they began to fight with the people of Maitea, who killed them all, except a young lad, and a woman, who have fince been at Otaheite. I faw the a boy,
T H E S O U T H S E A S, 8cc. 91
boy, but could get no information from him. It is moft 1788. probable, that this unfortunate vifit of the canoe from ■_ - ^ Tappuhoi was not defigned, but occalioned by adverfc winds, which forced them {o far from their own ifland ; and that the people of Maitea began the attack, taking ad- vantage of their fuperior numbers, on account of fome former quarrel.
Thurfday 13th. I had a large company to dine with me Thurfday to-day. Some of my conftant vifitors had obferved, that '^* we always drank his Majefly's health, as fooii as the cloth was removed ; but they were by this time become fo fond of wine, that they would frequently remind me of the health in the middle of dinner, by calling out King George Earee no Brittannee ; and would banter me if the glafs was not filled to the brim. Nothing could exceed the mirth and jollity of thefe people, when they met on board.
I was alTured by Oediddee, and feveral others, that the vines planted at the illand Huaheine by Captain Cook, had fucceeded and bore fruit ; and that fome of the other plants, both at Huaheine, and at Oaitepeha, a diftridl on the SE part of Otaheite, had been preferved, and were in a thriving ftate. I was like wife informed, that there was a bull and a cow ahve at Otaheite, but on different parts of the ifland ; the former at a place called Itteah, the latter at the diftricft of Tettaha. All the reft were taken away or deftroyed by the people of Eimeo. As Tettaha was at no great diftance, I iletermined to go thither myfelf, the firft opportunity, and make enquiries, in hopes that the breed might Hill be pre- ferved.
I had much difcourfe with my guefts about Omai : they confirmed to me, that he died about thirty months after Captain Cook left the iflands. Soon after Captain Cook's
N 2 departure
92 AVOYAGETO
1788. departure from Huaheine, there were fome difputes be- tween the people of that ifland and thofe of Ulietea, in which alfo the natives of Bolabola took a part. Omai, who was become of eonfequence from the pof- feffing three or four mnfkets, and fome ammunition, was confulted on the occaiion. Such was his opinion and affurances of fuccefs, that a war was determined on, and took place immediately. — Vi6lory" foon followed, through the means of thofe few arms, and many of the Ulietea and Bolabola men were killed. In this conteft their flints, proved bad, or probably the locks of the mufkets had got out of order : this they remedied by a lighted ftick, one man prefenting the mufket, and another with the burnt ftick fetting fire to the priming; without which contri- vance, their arms would have proved ufelefs. This ex- pedition, it feems, confumed all their ammunition. Peace was foon after eftabliflied, but I did not underftand that Omai had increafed his pofleffions or his rank. Neverthe- lefs, I have reafon to conclude, that he was in fome degree of favour with his countrymen, from the general good cha- racter which they give of him. It appears, that he always remembered England with kindnefs ; for his accounts to his countrymen have been fuch as to give them, not only a great idea of our power and eonfequence, but of our friendfhip and good-will towards him.
Tyvarooah, the eldeft of the New Zealand boys that were left with him, died a fliort time after Omai : about Coah,. tlie youngeft, I had always doubtful accounts till I came to Huaheine,. where I learnt that he likewife was dead.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c» 93
CHAP. VHL
Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer. — Extraordinary do- mejiic Arrangements. — Tinah's Mother vifits the Ship. — A Sheep brought from Ulietea. — Heavy Storm. — Death of the Surgeon. — I'aowju and Toahroab Harbours examined.
A
FTER dinner, I went on fliore, and while I was at i788- the tents, from having expofed mylelf too much in ._°'^!"J'",' the fun, I was taken ill, and continued in much pain for near an hour. This was foon known among the natives,, and I was exceedingly furprifed to fee Tinah, and all the principal people, both men and women, colle(5ling round me, and offering then' alliftance. For this iliort illnefs, I was made ample amends, by the pleafure I received from the attention and appearance of affedlion in thefe kind people.
Friday 14th. — This morning I had numberlefs enquiries Friday 14^ after my health. The weather being fine, I invited Tinah, Oreepyah, and Poeeno, to accompany me to Tettaha, in, order to enquire after the cowj and foon after fun-rife we fet off in the launch. Tettaha is nearly four leagues from Point Venus. On our arrival, Tinah fent a man to give notice of our vifit. The chief of the diftrict, whofe nanae was Teppahoo, did not appear, but fent a mxf- fenger to demand, if I came only to fee the cow, or to take it away with me. In anfwer to this, I fent alfurances,, that I only defired to fee it; and the chiefs who were
with.
94 AVOYAGETO
NoVEMBEtl.
with me fpoke to the fame efFe6t. I was then dellred to proceed in the boat farther along fhore to the weftward. In our way Tinah made me flop among fome filhing ca- noes to purchafe fifh for him, which he eat raw, with fait water for favice. When we arrived at the landing place, a great number of people had collected, and foon after Tep- i:)ahoo arrived. Oreepyah and I went with him about a quarter of a mile, when I was iliown one of the moft beau- tiful heifers I ever faw. I afked if they had any more, but they all faid there was no other than a bull at Itteah, as before-mentioned. I covild not refrain from exprelling my difpleafure at the deftruition, and the foolilh feparation of thefe fine animals. I had fliared with Captain Cook in the trouble of this bufmefs, and had been equally anxious for the fuccefs.
The diftricft of Tettaha is not fo luxuriant and fruitfal as the country about Matavai. As I faw nothing of confe- quence to detain me, I made a prefent to Teppahoo, and, after inviting him to vilit me on board the fliip, which he promifed to do, I took leave. Tinah had remained all this timein the boat. I obferved that no refpe6t was fhewn to him at this place, nor was he able to procure a cocoa-nut, or a bread-fruit, otherwife than by purchafing it. The heifer being here, is a proof of this diftri6t not having been friend- ly to the people of Matavai and Oparre.
In our way back, having to row againft the wind, we ftopped to refrefli at Oparre, and it was eight o'clock by the time- we arrived at the fhip. I kept my fellow tra- vellers on board to fupper, and they did not fail to remind me. of the king's health. Monday 17. Qur colle<5lion of bread-fruit plants at the tents, con- tinued increafing. This morning I fent twelve on board,
in
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 95
in pots, to dilcovcr where they would thrive the beft, the air being more temperate on board the fliip than on fliore. While I was abfent from the fliip, Teppahoo had been on board, and left a hog as a j^refent for me.
After dinner to-day, Tinah, who was my conftant vifitor, left the table fooner than vifual. When he was gone, Oree- pyah, his brother, and Oc(hdde, told me a piece of fcandal, which had been before hinted to me, but w^hich till now I had not heard of with certainty : this was, that Iddcah, Tinah's wife, kept a gallant, who was a towtow, or fervant, and the very perfon who always fed Tinah at dinner: and this was fo far from being without Tinah's knowledge or confent,that they faid it was by his defire. They added many other circumftances, and, as I appeared to doubt, they took feveral opportunities, in the courfe of the day, of mentioning, it to other people, w-ho all declared it was true.
Tuefday 18th. This afternoon, I faw Teppahoo, and in- Tuefday is, vited him on board : before we parted, I bargained with him for the heifer, which he promifed to bring in five days. My intention was, that if I got the heifer, I w^ould endea- vour to purchaf2 the bull at Itteah : but if that could not be done, then I could fend the heifer as a prefent to the pofTeflbr of the bull, which might equally well anfwer my purpofe.
It has been mentioned, that Tinah had a place in my cabin to keep thofe things which I gave him, as being more fecure on board than on lliore. I had remarked lately, that his hoard feemed to diminifli the more I en- deavoured to increafe it : at length I difcovered that Iddeali kept another hoard in the matter's cabin, which llie regu- larly enriched from her hufband's, whenever I made him a prefent, apprehending that I fliould ceafe giving, when I faw Tinah's locker full. At his requeft, I fet the carpen- ters
96 AVOYAGETO
1788. ters to work to make him a cheft large enough for himfelf November. ^^^ ^-^^ ^^ flccp on. Caf)tain Cook had formerly given him fuch a cheft, but it had been taken from him by the Eimeo people. Friday 21, This forenoon, I received a meffage from Teppahoo, to acquaint me the heifer was brought to Matavai. I imme- diately went on fliore, and found that he had been as good as his word. The purchafe money was paid, which confift- ed of a fliirt, a hatchet, a fpike nail, a knife, a pair of fciffars, a gimlet, and file; to which was added, a fmall quantity of loaf-fugar. Teppahoo appeared well pleafed with his bargain ; and I fent the heifer to Poeeno's reli- dence, near which was plenty of grafs.
In the afternoon, I was invited to a heiva, the moft ex- traordinary part of which was an oration, with fome cere- monies in compliment to us. Twelve men were divided into four ranks, with two women in the front : behind them all ftood a prieft, who made a fpeech which lafted ten minutes, and which was liftened to with fome atten- tion. During this, the picture of Captain Cook, which had been brought for that purpofe, was placed by my fide. When the prieft- left off fpeaking, a piece of white cloth was wrapt round the pidure, and another piece round me. The prieft then fpoke again for a ftiort time, and an old man placed a piece of plaited cocoa-nut leaf at my feet ; the faaie was done to Tinah, and one piece was put under the pi6ture. After this the dancing began, which was in the fame ftile that we had already feen.
The head of the fliip was the figure of a woman, and not ill carved. As we were painting the Ihip's upper works, I diredled this figure to be painted in colours, with which the iflanders were much pleafed. Not only the
men
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 97
men, but the women, delired me to bring Englifli women 1788. when I came again. To-day Oedidde, thinking I was not ,° "'_!"'" convinced of the truth of what he had told me about Id- deah, mentioned the affair to the lady herfelf in my hear- ing, at which jflie laughed, but faid he did ill to tell me of it. However, it was evident flie was not much offended ; for they were both very much diverted in difcourfing upon tlie lubjedt.
I find it is not at all uncommon for brothers to have connedtion with the wives of each other, particularly elder brothers with the wives of their younger brothers, which is generally allowed, and no offence taken : but if any per- fon, not belonging to the family, endeavours at the fame intimacy, it is refented as an injury. Inclination feems to be the only binding law of marriage at Otaheite.
As I purpofed to get inflruments on fliore at Point Venus, to make obfervations, I defired Tinah to order a houfe to be brought there for me ; which was done, and fixed in half an hour, being only a light flied fupported by pofls.
To-day I bought a turtle, that was caught on the reefs. Monday 34. As Tinah was going to leave me for a few days, I had it drefl for his dinner. He told me that his mother, Oberree- roah, was arrived from the ifland Tethuroa, and begged that I would fend for her in the morning, and take care of her till he returned ; which I willingly promiied.
Tuefday the 25th. This morning, I fent a boat to Oparre, TuefJay 25, which returned in the afternoon with Oberree-roah, and two women, her fervants. As flie was old and corpulent, it was with difEculty that we helped her up the fliip's fide. As loon as flie was in the fhip, fhe fat down on the gangway, and, clafping my knees in her arms, exprefled her pleafure at feeing me by a flood of tears. Her fervants then produced
O three
98 AVOYAGETO
November.
36.
three pieces of cloth, which, with a large hog, fome bread- fruit, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, flie had brought as a pi^e" fent. As file was fatigued by her journey, flie wiflied to remain on board all night; and I directed accommodations to be prepared, which was done with little trouble, as no- thing more was necelTary than a mat, and fome cloth fpread on the deck. She had with her a favourite cat, bred from one that had been given her by Captain Cook. She told me all the misfortunes that had befallen her fon and friends, lince Captain Cook left Otaheite. All the accounts agree in fome of the cattle being now alive at the ifland Eimeo : in the number they differ ; but that there are Weanefday eight, is the Icaft account. In the morning Oberree-roah being defirous to go on fhore, I made her a prefent of feve- ral things, which flie did not care to take with her then, but requefted that 1 would keep them fafe for her. Only Moannah and Poeeno dined with me to-day. They told me that Tinah and his brother Oreepyah were not on good terms together ; and it was imagined that they would fight as foon as the fhip was gone. I had obferved a coolnefs between them, and had at times endeavoured to make them more cordial, but with very little efFedl. Their quarrel has arifen from a difagreement between their wives.
In the afternoon, a canoe from Ulietea arrived, in which was an Earee, or chief, of that iftand, who is a nephew ta Oberree-roah. He brought a flieep with him : the poor animal was infe6led with the mange, and in very poor condition. The climate had not, as far as I could judge^ altered the quality of the wool, with which he was well covered, except a part about the flioulders. I imagine this animal to be the Englifh ewe left by Captain Cook. The owner affured me that there were ten llieep at Huaheine ;
the
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &:c. 99
the truth of which I much doubted. I was furprifcd, and rather mortified, to find that he fet fo Httlc vahie on this, as to let me have it, at the firft word, for a fmall adze. I fent it to he kept at Poecno's, with the heifer.
Friday the 28th. Tinah and his wife returned to Matavai, Friday z8. and, from appearances which I have no reafon to miftrurt, were fincerely glad to fee me again after their fliort abfence. They brought, as ufual, a prefent of a hog and fruit. This morning there was an eclipfe of the fun, but the weather was fo cloudy, that I had only an opportunity of obferving the end of the eclipfe, which was at 19' 43' 53".
I fent a man to fliear the ewe, by whicl:i a remedy could Saturday 29. more ealily be applied to cure the difeafe with which it w^as infe61:ed. The garden made near the tents was not in a profperous condition : moft of the melons and cucum- bers were deftroyed by infedts ; and the foil, being fandy, was not favourable to the other feeds. I therefore chofe another fpot of ground, farther from the fea-fide, aud had an affortment of feeds fown.
December the ift. In the night, the rudder of one of Monday ». the boats was ftolen from the tents. On landing in the morning, neither Tinah nor any of his family came near me, being, I was informed, afraid of my difpleafure. As the lofs was not great, I immediately fent to affarc them that I had no anger, except againft the perfon who com- mitted the theft. In confequence of this melTage, Tinah and fome of the other chiefs came to the tents, and pro- mifed that they would exert themfelves to difcover the thief, and get the rudder reftored. This was the firfl theft, of any confequence, that had been committed fince the tents were on fliore ; and my fufpicions fell chiefly on the "people \Nho were here from fome of the other illands.
O a Tinah
100 A V O Y A G E T O
JD£C£ME£R.
Tinah had jtift began to build a houfe for himfelf, and I promifed that our carpenters fhould affift him. Why- dooah, the youngeft brother of Tinah, had lately been one of my conftant vifitors, and feemed to have left off his former cuftom of getting drank with the Ava. He was efteemed one of their bell warriors ; and I was told that in the quarrel with the people of Eimeo, he killed Maheine the chief of that ifland.
Friday 5, The w^cather for fome time pafl had been very unfet-
tled. This afternoon, the wind blew frefli from the N W, which occafioned the fea to break very high acrofs the Dolphin bank ; and in the night fuch a heavy broken fea came into the bay, that we were obliged to batten all the hatchways down, and to keep every body upon deck all night, though the rain came down in torrents. The lliip
Saturday 6. rolled in a moft violent manner. In the morning the wind increaling, and there being no poflibility of putting to fea, we ftruck yards and topmafts, and trufted to our anchors. The river fwelled fo much with the rain, that the point of land on which the tents flood became an ifland; and, to preferve the bread-fruit plants from being endangered, the people were obliged to cut a paflage for the river through a })art of the beach, at a diftance from the tents. The fea broke very high on the beach ; neverthelefs, a canoe put off, and, to my furprife, Tinah, his wife, and Moannah, made their way good through the furf, and came on board to fee me. There was no other perfon in the canoe, for the weather did not admit of ufelefs paffengers : each of them had a paddle, which they managed with great acfti- vity and ikiW. Thefe kind people embraced me with many tears, and expreffed their apprehenfions for the fafety of the fliip. Towards noon, however, the fea abated confide- 6 rably.
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. loi
rably, but the wind continued to blow ftrong from the 1788. . N W. At fvui-fet, Iddeah went on Ihorc, but Tinah would ^_' ""_'"; remain with me the whole night.
Sunday the 7th. The wind continued between the Sunday 7. North and N W, but had fo much moderated, that I no longer confidered our lituation to be alarming. At noon Iddeah returned to the fhip, with a large hog, and a fup- ply of bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts ; and foon after, flie and Tinah left the fhip, having exa(5led a promife from me, that if the weather was moderate, I would go on fliore in the morning, and vifit their parents and fiftcr, w^ho, they •
told me, had been much alarmed on our account. I re- ceived a vifit likewife from Poeeno and his wife. This wo- man had always fliewn great regard for us; and now, on our meeting, before I could be aware of it, fhe began beat- ing her head violently with a fliark's tooth, fo that her face was covered with blood in an inilant. I put a flop to this as foon as I could, and, w-ith the drying up of the blood, her agitation fubfided. This ceremony is fre- quently performed, upon occalions either of joy or grief. Her hufband faid, that, if any accident happened to the Ihip, I fliould hve with him, and that they would cut down trees, and build me another fliip.
From this lample of the weather, and the information of the natives, I was convinced it would not be fafe to conti- nue in Matavai Bay much longer ; and I determined to get every thing ready for failing as fpeedily as 1 could.
The night proved moderate ; and in the morning, I went Monday 8. on fliore, where I was received by Oberree-roah, and feve- ral other friends, with great affecStion.
The plants received no injury from the bad weather, having been carefully covered from the fpray of the fea : fome were in a dormant ftate, and others were ftriking
out
1S2 A V O y A G E TO
December.
out young flioots. Nelfon thought that it was better to refrain a few days from taking them on board ; I therefore confented to defer it. He was of opinion that the plants could be propagated from the roots only, and I directed fome boxes to be filled, as we could flow them where no (Mihers could be placed.
Tuefday 9* This aftemoon, in hauling the launch on fhore to be re-
paired, many of the natives aflifting, one of them, a fine boy about ten years old, was thrown down, and a roller which was placed under the boat went over him. The furgeon being ill, I fent off for his afliftant. Fortunately no limb was broken, nor did he receive any material injury. The fvirgeon had been a long time ill, the effe<5l of intemperance and indolence. He had latterly fcarce ever flirred out of his cabin, but was not apprehended to be in a dangerous ftate ; neverthelefs, this evening he appeared to be fo much worfe than ufual, that it was thought necefl^ary to remove him to fbme place where he could have more air; but to no effe6l, for he died in an hour afterwards. This unfortunate man drank very hard, and was fo averfe to exercife, that he never would be prevailed on to take half a dozen turns upon deck at a time, in the whole courfe of the voyage.
Wednefday ^g J wifhcd to bury the furgeon on fhore, I mentioned it to Tinah ; who faid there would be no obje(5lion, but that it would be neceffary to afk his father's confent firft; which he undertook to do, and immediately left me for that purpofe. By this circumftance it appears, that though the eldeft fon of an Earee fucceeds to the title and ho- nours of the father as foon as he is born, yet a confide- ra-ble portion of aiithority remains with the father, even after the fon is of age. When Tinah returned, I went with him to the fpot intended for the burial place, taking 3 with
>0.
i
T II E S O U T H S E A S. 8cc. 103
with us two men to dig the grave; but on our arrival, I 178S. found the natives had already begun it. Tinah alked me, if ^^,— [_ '^ they were doing right ? " There," fays he, " the fun rifcs, and there it fets." The idea that the grave fliould be call and weft, I imagine they learnt from the Spaniards, as the captain of one of their fliips was buried at Oeitepeha in 1774. Certain it is, tliey had not the information from any body belonging to our fliip ; for I believe we Ihould not have thought of it. The grave, however, was marked out very exacftly. At four in the afternoon, the body was ■ . interred : the chiefs, and many of the natives, came to fee the ceremony, and fliewed great attention during the fer- \ice. Some of the chiefs were very inquilitive about what was to be done with the furgeon's cabin, on account of ap- jjaritions. They faid, when a man died in Otaheite, and was- carried to the Tupapow, that as fopn as night came, he was furrounded by fpirits, and if any perfon went there by him- felf, they would devour him : therefore they faid that not lefs than two people together Ihould go into the furgeon's ca- bin for fome time. I did not endeavour to dilTuade them from this belief, otherwife than by laughing, and letting them know that we had no fuch apprehenfions.
In the afternoon, the effects of the deceafed were difpofcd' of, and I appointed Mr. Thomas Denman Ledward, the furgeon's mate, to do duty as furgeon*
1 went in a boat to examine the harbours about Oparre, Friday 12. and found two formed by the reefs. The wefternmoft is the moft convenient for failing in or out, but is not well fheltered from a N W wind or fea. This harbour is called by the natives Taowne : it is about a league and a half diftant from Point Venus, and may be known by a re- markable mountain, called by the natives Wawry, which bears S S E from the entrance.
The
104 AVOYAGETO
DiCEMEER.
The eafternmoft harbour is called Toahroah. It is fmall,
but as fecure as a reef harbour can well be. It is about
three miles diftant from Point Venus. The chief objec- tion to this harbour is the difficulty of getting out Mdth the common trade wind, the entrance being on the eaft fide, not more than one hundred yards wide, and the depth without, inconvenient for warping. On the fouth fide of the entrance is a Moral : the reef fide is to be kept on board, and a look-out to be kept from aloft, whence the llioal water is better difcerned than from the deck. Sunday 14. This forcuoon, we performed divine fervice. Many of the principal natives attended, and behaved with great decency. Some of the women at one time betrayed an in- clination to laugh at our general refponfes ; but, on my looking at them, they appeared much alhamed. After the fervice, I was alked if no offering was to be made for the Eatua to eat.
The weather had been fair all the laft week, and at this time appeared quite fettled ; fo that I was under no appre- henfions of danger from continuing a little longer in Ma-» tavai bay.
C H A 1>.
$
104 AVOYAGETO
D 1 C £ M B E R .
The eaflernmoft harbour is called Toahroah. It is fmall, ^ __ but as fecure as a reef harbour can well be. It is about
three miles diftant from Point Venus. The chief objec- tion to this harbour is the difficulty of getting out Mdth the common trade wind, the entrance being on the eaft fide, not more than one hundred yards wide, and the depth without, inconvenient for warping. On the fouth fide of the entrance is a Moral : the reef fide is to be kept on board, and a look-out to be kept from aloft, whence the flioal water is better difcerned than from the deck. Sunday 14. This forenoon, we performed divine fervice. Many of the principal natives attended, and behaved with great decency. Some of the w^omen at one time betrayed an in- clination to laugh at our general refponfes ; but, on my looking at them, they appeared much alliamed. After the fervice, I was aflied if no offering was to be made for the Eatua to eat.
The weather had been fair all the laft week, and at this time appeared quite fettled ; fo that I was under no appre- henfions of danger from continuing a little longer in Ma- tavai bav. ,
i
C H A P.
t
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 105
CHAP. IX.
A Walk into the Country. — 'fbe Peeab Roah. — Prevailed any by the Kindnefs of the Chiefs^ to defer our Departure. — Bread- fruit Plants colle&ed. — Move the Ship to 'Toabroah Har- bour.— Fijljino-. — 'Three of the Ship's Company defer t. — In- difcretion of our People on' Shore. — Inflances of Jealoufy .—• Mourning. — Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet. — The Defer ters recovered.— Ti?iab propofes to vifit England.
w
EDNESDAY the 17th. This morning I took a 1788,
December.
walk into the country, accompanied by Nclfon and my old friend Moannah. The breadth of the border of wednefday low land, before we arrived at the foot of the hills, was '^' near three miles. This part of our journey was through a delightful country, well covered with bread-fruit and co- coa-nut trees, and flrewed with houfes, in which were fwarms of children. We then proceeded along a valley, ilill among houfes, with plantations of yams, tarro, the cloth-plant, and their favourite root the Ava : there were bread-fruit trees on the fides of the hills, which were dwarfs in comparifon of thofc on the low land. Our walk was very much interrupted by a river, the courfe of \\hich was fo ferpentine, that we had to crofs it fevcral times, being carried over on men's flioulders.
On arriving at a Morai, I faw a number of the natives collevfted, and was informed that the pricfts were performing their devotions. Sixteen men were fitting on their heels;
P in
I06 A V O Y A G E T O
1788. in the front was 3. pole covered with a plaited cocoa-nut branch, and before each of the men there was a number of fmall pieces of the fame leaf plaited, which they call Ha-- hyree, and each had likewife a piece round his wrift. One, who appeared to be the chief prieft., prayed aloud, and was anfwered by all the reft together : after a few fhort fen- tences and refponfes, they rofe, and^ach carried an hahyree, which they placed at the foot of the pole, and returned to prayer : this was repeated till all the hahyree were deliver- ed, and then the ceremony ended. I muft not forget to mention, that they had placed, -near the pole, an oifering of plantains and bread-fruit, which they left for the Eatua. They very kindly alked us to partake of a roafted hog, that liad been prepared for them whilft they were praying ; but as I wiflied to make the moft of the morning, before the fun was too high, I declined their offer, and Moannah be- ipoke refrefhments to be ready for us when we returned.
We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, and had advanced a conliderable way beyond all the houfes and plantations, when we were fuddenly flopped by a cafcade, that fell into the river from a height of above 200 feet : the fall at this time was not great, but in the heavy rains muft be conliderable. The natives look upon this as the moft wonderful light in the illand. The fall of water is the leaft curious part ; the cliff, over which it comes, is perpendicular, forming an appearance as if fup- ported by fquare pillars of ftone, and with a regularity that IS furprifing. Underneath is a pool eight or nine feet deep, into which the water falls ; and in this place all the natives make a point of bathing once in their lives, probably from fome religious idea. The hills here approach each other within a few yards,
3 and
T HE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 107"
De CKM UEK.
and are well covered with wood. As the road appeare<I difficult, I did not care to proceed towards the mountain. I cannot with certainty lay how far this ciu-ious precipice is from the bay, but think, in the road by which we went, it cannot be lefs than fevcn miles. It is called Peeah Roah.
hi ovir return, we found a young pig prepared for us, and we made a hearty meal. We dined in the houfe of an old ac- quaintance of Nelfon's ; for whom he had, in 1777, planted the two fliaddock. plants, formerly mentioned, which he hail brought from the I'^riendly Ulands. Thefe we had the fa- tisfa(5tion to fee were grown to tine trees, and full of fruit.
In their plantations they do not take much pains, except- with the Ava and the Cloth-plant, both of which they are careful to keep clear of weeds. Many of the plantations of the cloth-plant were fenced with ftone, and furrounded with a ditch. The yams and plantains are moftly on the higher grounds. As foon as we had linifhed our dinner, we returned towards the fliip. I was much delighted, in this walk, with the number of children that I faw in every part of the country : they are very handfome and fpright- ly, and full of antic tricks. They have many diverfions that are common with the boys in England ; fuch as flying kites, cats cradle, fwinging, dancing or jumping in a rope, walking upon ftilts, and wreftling.
Friday the 19th. The wind to-day blew frefh, but conti- Friday nued regular from the E and E S E. We hadlikewife much rain, and a long fwell fet into the bay, I had not yet deter- mined, whether, on leaving Matavai bay, I would go to the ifland Eimco, or to the harbour of Toahroah near Oparre : this uncertainty made Tinah, and the reft of my friends, very anxious ; and they appeared much diftreffed on my defiring them, this afternoon, to fend on board all the things
P 2 which
loS A VOYAGE TO
1788. which they wiflied to have repaired by the forge, without cTc- PtcEMCER. j^^^^ ^^^^j. ^]^3t j-jjgy wanted might be done before the fliip left Matavai, which I told them would be in a few days. They very earneftly intreated 1 would ftay one month longer. I reprefented this as impoffiblc, and afkecl Tinah if he would not go with me to Eimeo ; but he faid, that, notwithftand- ing my protection, he was certain the Eimeo people would watch for an opportunity to kill him. He remained on board with me all night, but his wife went on fliore, and returned early in the morning, bringing with her fome axes and other things, that were in need of repair. Saturday 20. When I went on lliore, I found Otow, Oberree-roah,, Moannah, and feveral others, in great tribulation at the thoughts that we were fo foon to leave them. All the people of Matavai, I faw, were much concerned at my intention of going to Eimeo, and took every opportunity to prejudice me againft the people of that ifland ; to which I paid very little attention, as their motive was obvious^ Their expreffions of friendfhip and affeftion for me, how- ever, I could not difregard, as I had no doubt of their being genuine and unaffected; and I felt my unwillingnefs to leave thefe kind people fo much increafed, that the next Sunday 21. day, I lent the mafter in the launch to re-examine the depth of water between this bay and Toahroah harbour. He returned in the evening, and acquainted me, that he found a o^ood bottom, with not lefs than fixteen fathoms depth aU the way. The harbour of Toahroah appearing every way fafe, I determined to get the fliip there as fpeedily as pof- fible, and I immediately made my intention public, which occafioned great rejoicing. Wednefday This day, we took the plants on board, being 774 pots, all ^** in a healthy Hate ; for whenever any plant had an unfa- -5 vourable
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 109
Dec
vonrabic appearance, it was replaced by another. The number of thofe rejedied was 302, of which not one in ten but was found to be growing at the root.
The natives reckon eight kinds of the bread-fruit tree, each of which they diltinguifli by a different name. i.Pat- tcab. 1. Eroroo. 3. Aivaiuta. 4. Mi-re. 5. Oree. 6. Powerro. 7. Af^peere. 8. RoiDdeeab. In the firft, fourth, and eighth clafs, the leaf differs from the reft; the fourth is more fi- nuated ; the eighth has a large broad leaf, not at all finuated. The difference of the fruit is principally in the lirft and eighth clafs. hi the lirft, the fruit is rather larger and more of an oblong form : in the eighth, it is rountl and not above half the fize of the others. I enquired if plants could be produced from the feed, and was told they could not, but that they muft be taken from the root. The plants are beft coUedled after wet weather, at which time the earth balls round the roots, and they are not liable to fuffer by being, moved.
The moft common method of dividing time atOtaheiteis by moons ; but they likewife make a divillon of the year into fix parts, each of which is diftinguiflied by the name of the kind of bread-fruit then in fealbn. In this divifioii they keep a fmall interval called 'Taivay in which thev do not ufe the bread-fruit. This is about the end of Februarv^ when the fruit is not in perfcdion ; but there is no part: of the year in which the trees are entirely bare.
Thurfday the asth. At day-light we unmoored, and I Thur/dayzs- fent the tents in the launch to Oparre, with dire61:ions that after landing them, the launch ftiould meet the fliip in the entrance of Toahroah harbour, to Ihow the fifeft part of the channel. At half part ten, we got the fliip under fail, and ran down uiuler to^j-fails : when wq were
aear
no AVOYAGETO
December.
near the launch, it fell calm, and the fliip fhot paft her. We immediately let the anchor go, but, to our great farprife, we found the fliip was aground forwards. She had run on fo eafy, that we had not perceived it at the time. This accident occafioned us much trouble, as we were obliged to fend anchors out aftern to get the fliip afloat : in doing this, one of the cables fwept a rock, and was not got clear again without much difficulty. When the fliip was moor- ed. Point Venus bore N 46° E. The eaft point of the har- bour N 65" E ^ of a mile. Our diftance from the fliore half a cable's length ; depth of water 8 i fathoms. Friday z6. The next morning, on my landing, I was welcomed by all the principal people ; I may fay by the whole croud, and congratulated on the fafety of the fliip. Tinah fliewed me a houfe near the water fide, abreaft the fliip, which he defired I would make ufe of, and which was large enough for all our purpofes. He and his brother Oree- pyah then defired I would fl:ay and receive a formal addrefs and prefent, which they called Otee. To this I affented, and a ftool was brought for me to fit on. They then left me with Moannah, and in a fliort time I faw Tinah re- turning with about twenty men, who all made a flop at fome diftance, and a priefi; faid a fliort prayer to the Eatua, to which the refl: made reply. A man was then fent to me three feveral times, at each time bringing me a fmall pig, and the ftem of a plantain leaf. The firft they told me was for the God of Brittannee, the next for King George, and the laft for myfelf. Moannah then got up, and, without being di(5lated to, made an oration for me ; the purport of which I underfl;ood to be, that I received their offering with thanks; that we were good people and friends; and therefore he exhorted them to commit no
thefts :
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. ill
thefts : he told them to bring their pigs, cocoa-nuts, ami 1788. bread-fruit, and they would receive good things in return ; Z^^",'' ,' that we took nothing without their confcnt ; and finally, that every man was to quit the place (the houfe we occu- pied) at night ; for if they made any vifit in the dark, they would be killed. With this fpeech the ceremony ended.
I found this a delightful fituation, and in every refpedt convenient. The fliip was perfecftly flieltered by the reefs in fmooth water, and clofe to a fine beach without the Icaft fiirf. A finall river, with very good water, runs into the fea about the middle of the harbour. I gave direilions for the plants to be landed, and the fame party to be with them as at Matavai. Tinah fixed his dwelling clofe to our ftation.
Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's neg- Monday ;rj. ligence, and flole his cleaver. I complained of this to the chiefs who were on board, and they promifed that they would endeavour to recover it; but an article fo valuable as this was to the natives, I had no great expectation of feeing reftored.
The Ihip continued to be fupplied by the natives as ufual. Cocoa-nuts were in fuch plenty, that I believe not a pint of water was drank on board the fhip in the twenty-four hours. Bread-fruit began to be fcarce, though we pur- chafed, without difficulty, a fvifficient quantity for our con- fumption : there was, however, another harveft approach- ing, which they expedled would be fit for ufe in five or fix weeks. The better kind of plantains alfo were become fcarce ; but a kind which they call Vayhee were in great plenty. This fruit does not hang on the trees like the other kinds, but grows upon an upright ftalk of confider- able firength and fubliance. Though this plantain is in- ferior
112 AVOYAGETO
1788. ferior in quality to moft of the others, it affords great fab- ^cE^MB^ fiftence to the natives. We received, almoft every day, prefents of fifli, chiefly dolphin and albacore, and a few fmall rock fifli. Their fifliing is moftly in the night, when they make ftrong lights on the reefs, which attract the fifli to them. Sometimes, in fine weather, the canoes are out in fuch numbers, that the whole fea appears illumi- nated, hi the canoes they fifli with hook and Ihie, and on the reefs they ftrike the fifli with a fpear. Some likewife carry out fmall nets, \vhich are managed by two men. In the day-time their filhing canoes go without the reefs, fometimes to a confiderable diftance, where they fifli with rods and lines, and catch bonetas, and other fifli. When- ever there is a fliow of fifli, a fleet of canoes immediately proceeds to fea. Their hooks being bright, are nfed with- out bait, in the manner of our artificial flies. Their rods are made of bamboo ; but when there are any very large fifli, they make ufe of an out-rigger over the fore part of the canoe, about twenty-five feet in length, which has two prongs at the extremity, to each of which is faftened a hook and line ; and when a fifli takes the hook, it is raifed by
January. Topcs managed by two men in the flern of the canoe.
Thmfdayi. Contrary to my expe6tation, Tinah, this afternoon, brousht on board the cleaver that had been ftolen. The
o
thief had taken it to Attahooroo, and Tinah told me, which I could eafily believe, that it was given up wdtli great re- FriJaja. Iu6lance. The next morning I offered Tinah a prefent of axes, and other things ; but, as he fufpedted this was meant by way of return for getting the cleaver reflored, he would not be prevailed with to accept a fingle article.
I had conftantly the company of Tinah, his wife, and fome of his relations ; but the royal children, though fo
near
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 113
near us, never came in fight of the fliip. The river fepa- 1789. rated them from the place occupied by our people on i*""^^'*'- fhore ; and, for fear of giving alarm or offence, I gave ftri<St orders that no one fliould attemi^t to go near their place of refidence.
Monday the 5th. At the relief of the watch, at four Mond*y 5. o'clock this morning, the fmuU cutter was miffing. I was immediately informed of it, and multered the fliip's com- ])any ; when it appeared, that three men were abfent, Charles Churchill, the Ihip's corporal, and two of the feamen, Wil- liam Mufprat, and John Millward; the latter of whom had been centinel from twelve to two in the morning. They had taken with them eight ftand of arms and ammunition ; but what their plan was, or which way they had gone, no one on board feemed to have the lead knowledge. I went on (hore to the chiefs, and foon received information, that the boat was at Matavai ; and that the deferters had departed in a fail- ing canoe for the ifland Tethuroa. On this intelligence, I fent the mafter to Matavai to fearch for the fmall cutter, and one of the chiefs went with him ; but before they had got half way, they met the boat with five of the natives, who were bringing her back to the fliip. This fervice, rendered me by the people of Matavai, pleafed me much, and I re- warded the men accordingly.
I told Tinah, and the other chiefs, that I expected they would get the deferters brought back ; for that I was de- termined not to leave Otaheite without them. They aflur- cd me, that they would do every thing in their power to have them taken ; and it was agreed, that Oreepyah and Moan- nah fliould depart the next morning for Tethuroa. Oree- pyah enquired if they had pocket piftols, " for," faid he, ** though we may furprife and feize them before they can
Q " make
114
A VOYAGE TQ
15189. " make ufe of their mufkets ; yet if they have piftols, they ^ANUARY.^ <( ^^^y ^^ mifchief, even while they are held." I quieted thefe apprehenfions, by affuring them, that the deferters had no piftols with them. Tuefday 6. At day-light, Oreepyah and Moannah fet off in two canoes for Tethuroa, but the weather became fo boifterous, that they were obliged to return in the forenoon, and I was happy to fee them get fafe in, as the fea ran very high without the harbour. From the firft of this month, the weather and winds had been much unfettled, with a great deal of rain. Our former ftation at Matavai appeared not at all fafe, the fea at times breaking high over the Dolphin bank, and making a great fwell in the bay. Oreepyah and Moannah both promifed me, that they would fail again as foon as the weather fliould be fine. Friday 9. The wind continued to blow ftrong at fea, though in the harbour we had, at times, but light breezes. Poeeno, from Matavai, came to fee me to-day : he faid, he was appre- henfive that I was difpleafed with him, on account of our deferters having been carried to Tethuroa, by a canoe from Matavai. This, he declared, had been done before he heard of it; and that the only fervice in his power, he had not negieded to do for me, which was the fending our boat back. As this was really an a6t of friendiliip, I received him with great cordiality; and he alfured me, that there could be no doubt, from the dire6lions Tinah had given, of the deferters being brought to the Ihip, as foon as the weather would admit canoes to go after them. Saturday 10. One of the officers, this morning, on fliore, inadvertently plucked a branch from a tree called Tutuee, that bears the oil nut, which was growing at a Moral. On entering with it into the houfe occupied by our people, all the 4 natives,
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. ri5
natives, both men and women, immediately went away. 1789. When I went on fhore, I found this branch tied to one of Z*""''"'^' the pofts of the houfe, although the effecl it had on the natives was known. I was much difpleafed at this piece of Avantonnefs, and ordered the branch to betaken away; but the natives, notwithftanding, would not come near the place. They faid the houfe was taboo^ which 1 underftand to figiiify interdidted, and that none of them might approach it till the taboo was taken off, which could only be done by Ti- nah. To take any thing away from a Morai is regarded as a kind of facrilege, and, they believe, gives great offence to the Eatua. At my requeft, Tinah took off the taboo^ but not before the afternoon. This was performed by an of- fering of a plantain leaf at the Morai, and a prayer made to the Eatua. After this ceremony, the houfe was reforted to by the natives, as ufual.
I had not yet given up the hope of obtaining the bull from Itteah, though I had hitherto received no fatisfadlory anfwer to the meflages which Tinah had fent at my defire : I therefore fpoke to Poeeno, who undertook to negotiate this bufinefs, and I commiflioned him to make very liberal of- fers. He left me after dinner, to return to Matavai. In the evening, a meffenger arrived from him, to acquaint me, that, in his abfence, the {heep which I had trufted to his care, had been killed by a dog ; and that he had fent the culprit, hop- ing that I would kill him for the offence he had committed. This poor fheep had been fo much difeafed, that I could not help fufpedting'he died without the dog's alliftance, and that the flory of the dog was invented to prevent my at- tributing it to want of care. This doubt did not appear in my anfwer; as for the dog, I told the meffenger to do with him what he pleafed. Tuefday the 13th, This morning, the weather being Tuefdayij.
Q 2 more
ii6 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. more moderate than it had been for fome days paft, Oree-
jANUART^ pyah failed with two canoes for Tethuroa. Some bufinefs
prevented Moannah from accompanying him, but he fol-
Wednefday lowed the ncxt day with two other canoes. The wood
^' that we had got at Matavai being expended, I appUed to
Tin ah, who fent three trees down to the water fide before
night, which when cut up made a good launch load.
I faw two inftances of jealoufy to-day, one of which had nearly produced fatal confequences. A man was detected with a married woman, by the hufband, who ftabbed him in the belly with a knife: fortunately the inteftines efcaped, and the wound did not prove dangerous. The other in- ftance was, a girl, who had conftantly lived with my cox- fwain, beating another girl, that llie difcovered to have been too intimate with him. Friday 16. In Walking to-day with Tinah near a Tupapow, I was furprifed by a fudden outcry of grief. As I expreffed a de- fire to fee the diftrelTed perfon, Tinah took me to the place, where we found a number of women, one of whom was the mother of a young female child that lay dead. On feeing us their mourning not only iinmediately ceafed, but to my aftonifliment, they all burft into an immoderate fit of laugh- ter, and, while we remained, appeared much diverted with our vifit. I .told Tinah the woman had no forrow for her child, otherwife her grief would not have fo eafily fubfid- ed; on which he jocofely told her to cry again : they did not, however, refume their mourning in our prefence. This ftrange behaviour would incline us to think them hard- hearted and imfeeling, did we not know that they are fond parents, and, in general, very afFedlionate : it is therefore to be afcribed to their extreme levity of difpofition ; and it is probable, that death does not appear to them with fo many terrors, as it does to people of a more ferious cafl:.
Sunday
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 117
Sunday the 18th. I received a meflage from Poeeno, to 1787. acquaint me that he had been fuccefsful in his negotiation C.!li|A^ for the bull, which he had driven part of the way by land, Sunday lu. but could not get farther on account of the rivers, and therefore defired a boat lliould be font for him. I accord- ingly ordered the launch to be got ready, and at two o'clock the next morning, Mr. P'ryer, the mailer, fct off in her. Monday 19.
hi the afternoon, the launch returned with the bull, and my friend Poeeno. For the night I directed that the bull Ihould remain at Oparre, and the next day he was taken to the cow at Matavai.
Wedncfday the 21ft. To-day, Poeeno brought to me the wednefjay perfon from whom he had the bull, to receive the ftipulated ^'" payment, which was one of every article of traffic that I had in my pofleirion. This man, whofe name was Oweevee, they told me, was infpired by a divine fpirit ; and that in all matters of confequence he was confulted, for that he.con- verfed with the Eatua. It was, they faid, the Eatua that or- dered him to demand the bull from Tinah, which not to have complied with, would have been the height of im- piety. I endeavoured to convince them of the roguery of this man, thinking I had a fair argument to prove it by his felling that which the Eatua had ordered him to keep ; but here I was ealily defeated, for it feems the Eatua told him to fell me the beaft. This being the cafe, I faid, I would not give the animals to any perfon ; that they were now mine, and that I would leave them nnder the protec- tion of Poeeno and Tinah, who I hoped would take care of them for me till I returned. They both entered into my views, and promifed the animals fliould be attended to, and told me, that while they w'ere confidered as my property, no one would attempt to take them away.
Thurfday
ii8 AVOYAGETO
»789- Thurfday the 22d. This afternoon, I received a meflaffe
Tanuarv.
■ - - I from Teppahoo, to inform me that our deferters had paffed Thurfday 22. this harbour, and were atTettaha, about five miles diftant. I ordered the cutter to be got ready, and a Uttle before fun-fet left the fhip, taking Oedidee with me. By his advice I landed at fome diftance from the place where the deferters were ; but thinking it neceflary to have the boat within call, and Oedidee affuring me that there was fafe landing farther on, I diredted the boat to proceed along fhore, whiift Oedidee and I walked along the beach. The night was very dark and windy, and the fhore being rocky, I foon loft fight of the boat. A few of the natives had joined us in our walk; and, from their manner, I had reafon to fufpedl them of a defign to clofe upon us, with an intention, no doubt, to plunder : I was provided with pocket-piftols, and on pro- ducing one, they left us. Oedidee was fo much alarmed that I could fcarce prevail on him to proceed. When we arrived at Teppahoo's houfe, we were very kindly received by him and his wife. The cutter was arrived, but, there being 'a very high furf, fhe could not come within a hundred yards of the fhore.
The deferters, I was informed, were in a houfe clofe to us, and I imagined there would be no great difficulty in fecuring them, with the afliftance of the natives. They had, however, heard of my arrival ; and when I was near the houfe, they came out, without their arms, and delivered themfelves up. I fent direcSlions off to the boat for one of my people to come on fhore, and for the boat to return to r the place where I had landed. My next bufinefs was to fe-
cure the arms, which I delivered to Teppahoo to take charge of for the night. One mufket and two bayonets were mif- fing, which they faid were loft, by the canoe in which they
came
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 119
came from Tethiiroa having overfet. I then took leave of 1789. Teppahoo, who prefented us with a plentiful fupply of {^^^jl"^ provifions, and we proceeded with the deferters towards the boat; but as the wind had increafcd, and it rained hard, I determined to remain on fliore till the morning ; and having found flielter for the people, we pafTcd the remain- der of the night without accident. At daylight, 1 fent for Friday 23. the arms, and we returned to the fliip.
I learnt from the deferters, that at Tethuroa they had feen Oreepyah and Moan n ah, who had made an attempt to fecure them. They faid it was their intention to have re- turned to the Ihip ; and it is probable that they were fo much harrafled by the natives watching for an opportunity to fur- prife them, that they might willi to have the merit of re- turning of their own accord, to avoid the difgrace of being feized and brought back. At the time they delivered them- felves up to me, it was nor in their power to have made re- iiftance, their ammunition having been fpoiled by the wet.
In confequcnce of my having been kept all night from the fl^ip by the tempcftuous weather, the time-keeper went down at 10" 5°' 36'. Its rate, previous to this, was i", 7 lofing in 24 hours, and its error from the mean time at Greenwich was 7' 09", 2 too flow. I fet it going again by a common watch, corredled by obfervations, and endea- voured to make the error the fame as if it had not flopped ; but being over cautious, made me tedious in fetting it in mo- tion, and increafed the error from mean time at Greenwich. The rate of going I did not find to have altered.
At dinner. Tin ah congratulated me on having recovered my men, but exprelTed fome concern that they had not been brought by Oreepyah and Moannah ; left I fliould imagine they had not done every thi ng in their power. To this I replied, that I was perfet5tly fatisfied of their good intentions to ferve
me,
120 AVOYAGETO
1789. jYigj jind that I confidered myfelf under great obligations to «— — V — -« them for the trouble they had been at on my account. I learnt afterwards that they had aftually feized and bound the deferters, but had been prevailed upon, by fair promifes of their returning peaceably to the fliip, to let them loofe : the deferters, however, finding an opportunity to get pof- feffion of their arms again, fet the natives at defiance. Friday 30, This aftemoon, I puniflied one of the feamen, Ifaac Mar-
tin, with nineteen lafhes, for ftriking an Indian. This was a tranfgreffion of fo ferious a nature, and fuch a diredt vio- lation of my orders, that I would on no account be pre- vailed on to forgive it, though great interceffion was made by fome of the chiefs.
Oreepyah and Moannah were not yet returned from Te- thuroa. This place is reforted to by the principal people of this part of Otaheite, at particular feafons, when fifli are in great plenty there. It was defcribed to me to be a group of fmall keys, furrounded by a reef: their produce is chiefly cocoa-nuts and plantains. During the feafon, bread- fruit and other provifions are daily carried over from Otaheite. Not lefs than a hundred fail of canoes were at Tethuroa when our deferters were there.
Teppahoo and his wife were become my conftant vifi- tors : he had for fome time paft been ill, and had made Oparre his place of refidence, for the benefit of our furgeon's advice and affiflance. At this time he complained of a hoarfenefs and fore-throat. Mr. Ledward, on examining him, difcovered there had been two holes in the roof of his mouth, which, though healed, had the appearance of having been large : the adjacent parts appeared found, yet the fvir- geon was of opinion that they were cancerous, and would in the end occafion his death.
This
T H E S O U T H S E A S, fee. lar
This morninff, I ordered all the chefts to be taken on , '789-
'~ January^
fliore, and the infide of the fliip to be waflied with boiling v__, — u water, to kill the cockroaches. We were conftantly obliged Saturday 31 to be at great pains to keep the fliip clear of vermin, on ac- count of tbe plants. — By the help of traps and good cats, we were freed from rats and mice. When I was at Otaheite with Captain Cook, there were great numbers of rats about all the houfes, and fo tame, that they flocked round the people at their meals for the offals, which were commonly thrown to them; but, at this time, we fcarce everfaw a rat, which muft be attributed to the induftry of a breed of cats left here by European fliips.
After breakf aft, I walked withTinah to Matavai, to fee the cattle and th« gardens. Tinah had already taken fo large a dofe of the Ava, that he was perfed:ly ftupified. Iddeah, however, was with us, and (he is one of the moft intelligent perfons 1 met with at Otaheite. We M^ent firft to Poeeno's houfe, and faw the bull and cow together in a very fine pafture. I was informed that the cow had taken the bull ; fo that, if no untoward accident happens, there is a fair chance of the breed being eftabliflied. In the garden, near Poeeno's houfe, many things had failed. The Indian corn was in a fine ftate, and I have no doubt but they will culti- vate it all over the country. A fig-tree was in a very thriving way, as were two vines, a pine-apple plant, and fome flips of a fliaddock-tree. From this place, we walked to the gar- den at Point Venus; but I had the mortification to find almoft every thing there deftroyed by the hogs. Some un- derground peafe and Indian corn had efcaped, and likewiie the caliloo green and ocra of Jamaica.
We returned to the fliip ; and after dinner I was not a lit- tle furprifed to hear Tinah ferioufly propofe that he and his
R "wife
122 AVOYAGETO
1789. -^vife Ihould go with me to England. He faid he would ». — \, — J only take two fervants ; that he much willied to fee King George, who, he was fure, would be glad to fee him. - Tinah and many of his countrymen were become ex- tremely eager to get a knowledge of other countries, and were continually enquiring about the fituations of the iilands which we told them of in thefe feas. To quiet his importunity, I was obliged to promife, that I would afk the king's permiffion to carry them to England, if I came again ; that then I lliould be in a larger Ihip, and could have accommodations properly fitted up. I was forry to find, that Tinah was apprehenfive he fhould be attacked by his enemies, as foon as our fliip left Otaheite, and that if they joined, they would be too powerful for him. The illnefs of Teppahoo, with whom he was on good terms, gave him much uneafinefs ; Teppahoo's wife being a filler of Otow's and aunt to Tinah. They have no children, as has been before related ; and if Teppahoo were to die, he would be fucceeded, as Earee of the diftridt of Tettaha, by his bro- ther, who is an enemy to Tinah. I have on every occa- fion endeavoured to make the principal people believe that v/e fhould return again to Otaheite, and that we lliould revenge any injury done in our abfence to the people of Matavai and Oparre.
The wife of Oedidee is likewife an aunt to Tinah, and filler to Otow. His native place is Ulietea, where he has fome property; but which, I imagine, is not of fuch confequence to him as the countenance of the chiefs with whom he is connetSted at Otaheite.
CHAP.
T H E S O U T H S E A S, fee. 123
CHAP. X.
Tbe Ship's Cable cut in the Night. — Coolnefs with the Chiefs on that Account. — Vifit to an old Lady. — Dijlurbance at a Heiva. — Tinab's Hofpitality. — A Thief takeny and pu- nijbed. — F reparations for failing.
I WAS prefent, this afternoon, at a wreftling match, 1789, where a young man, by an unhicky fall, put his arm ^^°!l"^'^' out of joint at the elbow : three flout men immediately Tucfday j. took hold of him, and two of them fixing their feet againft his ribs, replaced it. I had fent for our furgeon, but before he arrived, all was well, except a fmall fwelUng of the mufcles, in confequence of the ftrain. I enquired what they would have done if the bone had been broken ; and, to fhew me their pra(5lice, they got a number of flicks and placed round a man's arm, which they bound with cord. That they have confiderable fkill in furgery is not to be doubted. 1 have before mentioned an inftance of an amputated arm being perfe6lly healed, and which had every appearance of having been treated with great pro- priety.
The part of the beach nearefl the fliip, was become the general place of refort towards the clofe of the day. An hour before fun-fet, the inhabitants began to colledl, and here they amufed themfelves with exercifing the lance, dancing, and various kinds of merriment, till nearly dark, when they retired to their homes. Of this cheerful fcene, we were fpedators and partakers, every fine evening,
R a Friday
^?4
A VOYAGE TO
1789. Friday the 6th. An occurrence happened to-day that
' -.-'' J gave me great concern, not only on account of the danger Friday 6. with which the fliip had been threatened, but as it tend- ed greatly to diminifli the confidence and good imder- ftanding which had hitherto been conftantly preferved between us and the natives. The wind had blown frefh in the night, and at day-light we difcovered that the cable, by which the fliip rode, had been cut near the water's edge, in fuch a manner, that only one ftrand remained whole. While we were fecuring the fhip, Tinah came on board. I could not but believe he was perfecSlly innocent of the tranfaftion ; neverthelefs, I fpoke to him in a very peremptory manner, and inlifted upon his difcover- ing and bringing to me the offender. I was wholly at a lofs how to account for this malicious a6t. My fufpicions fell chiefly, I may fay wholly, on the flrangers that came to us from other parts of the ifland ; for we had on every oc- ' cation, received fuch tmreferved and unafFe6led marks of good-will from the people of Matavai and Oparre, that in my own mind I entirely acquitted them. The anger which 1 expreffed, however, created fo much alarm, that old Otow and his wife (the father and mother of Tinah) immediately quitted Oparre, and retired to the mountains in the midft of heavy rain, as did Teppahoo and his family. Tinah and Iddeah remained, and expoftulated with me on the unreafonablenefs of my anger againft them. He faid,that he would exert his utmoft endeavours to difcover the guilty perfon ; but it might poflibly not be in his power to get him delivered up, which would be the cafe, if he was either . of Tiarraboo, Attahooroo, or of the ifland Eimeo. That the attempt might have been made as much out of en- mity to the people of Matavai and Oparre as to me; every one knowing the regard I had for them, and that I had de- dared
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. . 125
clared I would i>rote(5l them againft their enemies. All this I was inclined to believe ; but I did not think proper to appear perfe6lly fatisfied, left Tinah, who was naturally very indolent, fliould be remifs in his endeavours to detecSt the offender. To guard as mnch as poflible againft future attempts of this kind, 1 diretfled a ftage to be built on the forecaftle, fo that the cables fliould be more directly under the eye of the centinel ; and I likewife gave orders that one of the midfliipmen fliould keep watch forward.
In the afternoon, Oreepyah returned from Tethuroa. He told me, that Moannah and hinifelf had narrowly efcaped being loft in the bad weather, and that Moannah had been obliged to take flielter at Eimeo. Several canoes had been loft lately in their pafTage to or from Tethuroa. The over- ietting of their canoes is not the only rifk they have to en- counter, but is productive of another danger more dread- ful; for at fuch times many become a prey to the fliarks, which are very numerous in thefe feas. I was informed likewife, that they were fometimes attacked by a fifli, which, by their defcription, I imagine to be the barracoota, as they attribute to it the fame propenfity.
Saturday pafTed without my feeing any thing of Tinah, the whole day. The next morning, he and Iddeah came Sunday a. to me, and affured me that they had made the i1:ri<5left enquiries concerning the injury intended us, but had not been able to difcover any circimiftance which could lead them to fufpedt who were concerned in it. This was not at all fiuisfacftory, and I behaved towards Them with great coolnefs, at which they were much diftrelTed ; anci Iddeah, at length, gave vent to her forrow by tears. I could no longer keep up the appearance of miftrufting them; but I earncftly recommended to them, as they valued the
King
126
A VOYAGE TO
1789.
February.
Taefday 10.
Weinefday II.
King of England's friendfhip, that they woitW exert their utmoft endeavours to find out the offenders ; which they faithfully promifed. Our reconciliation accordingly took place, and melTengers were fent to acquaint Otow and Teppahoo, and to invite them to return.
It has fince occurred to me, that this attempt to cut the Ihip adrift, was moft probably the a<3: of fome of our own people ; whofe purpofe of remaining at Otaheite might have been effedlually anfwered, without danger, if the Ihip had" been driven on fhore. At the time, I entertained not the leaft thought of this kind, nor did the poflibility of it enter into my ideas, having no fufpicion that fo general an incli- nation, or fo ftrong an attachment to thefe iflands, could prevail among my people, as to induce them to abandon every profpedt of returning to their native country.
A melTenger came to me this afternoon, from the Earee of Tiarrabou, the S E divifion of Otaheite, with an invita- tion for me to vifit him. I excufed myfelf on account of the diftance, and, at Tinah's requeft, fent back by the meffenger a handfome prefent, which I hope Tinah will get the credit of. I obferved, with much fatisfa6tion, that a great part of what Tinah had received from me, he had diftributed ; to fome, out of friendfliip and efteem, and to others, from motives of political civility.
Teppahoo and his family left us to-day to go to Tettaha, where a grand heiva was to be performed, at which their prcfence was required.
A fmall party of heiva people paffed through Oparre this morning, in their way to Tettaha, where they were going by appointment. They had the civility to fend me word, that, if I chofe, they would ftay to perform a fliort heiva before me ; and I immediately attended. It began by a
dance
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 127
dance of two young girls, to the mufic of drums and flutes, 1789. which laftcd no long time ; at the conchifion, they fudden- .^^""""""J' ly dropped all their drefs, which was left as a prefent for me, and went ofF\\ithout my feeing them any more. Af- ter this, the men danced : their performance was more in- decent than any I had before feen, but was not the lefs ap- plauded on that accoimt by the natives, who feemed much delighted.
After this entertainment, I went with Tinah and Iddeah, to pay a vifit to an old lady named Wanow-oora, widow to Towah, the late Earee of Tettaha, who condudted the ex- pedition againft Eimeo, when Captain Cook was here in 1777. The old lady had juft landed, and we found her fit- ting on the beach, by the head of her canoe. With Tinah, was a prieft and three men, who carried a young dog, a fowl, and two young plantain boughs : thefe were intend- ed for the offering, or prefent, called Otee. Tinah and his party feated themfelves at about ten yards diftance from Wanow-oora, and were addreffed by her, infhortfentences, for a few minutes, and received her Otee, which was exacSl- ly the fame as his. Tinah's prieft, in return, made a fliort prayer, and his offering was prefented to the old lady. Ti- nah then rofe and went to her, and embraced her in a very affe<5lionate manner ; and flie returned his kindnefs with tears, and many expreflions which I could not underftand. Soon after, he conducfled her to a Ihed, and we remained with her till it was time to go on board to dinner. I in- vited her to be of the party, but fhe excufed herfelf on ac- count of age and infirmity. Tinah gave dirediions for her and her attendants to be fupplied with whatever they had occafion for, and we went off to the fliip.
Friday the 13th. This forenoon, Tinah fent to inform me, Friday 13. § that
128 A V O Y A G E T O
that many flrangers were arrived from all parts, to be prefent at a grand heiva, which he had prepared in compliment to me. I accordingly went on fliore, and found a great crowd of people colle6led together. A ring was made at a little diftance from our poft, and Tin ah and feveral other chiefs came to meet me. When we were all feated, the heiva began by women dancing ; after which, a prefent of cloth, and a tawme or breaft-plate, was laid before me. This ceremony being over, the men began to wreftle, and regu- larity was no longer preferved. Old Otow came to me, and defired I would help to put a ftop to the wreftling, as the people came from different diftri^Sls, fome of which were ill difpofed towards others. What Otow had apprehended was not without reafon, for in an inftant the whole was tumult : every man took to his arms, and, as I foimd my fingle interference could be of no fervice, I retired to our poft, and ordered all my people there under arms. At the time the difturbance began. Tin ah and Iddeah were ab- fent : their firft care was for me, and Iddeah came to fee if I was fafe at the poft. She had a double covering of cloth round her, and her waift was girded with a large rope. I defired her to ftay under my protedlion : this Ihe would not confent to, but faid fhe would return as foon as all was over ; and away flie went.
I immediately gave orders for two guns to be fired from the fliip without fliot, which had a good effedt : and, as no chief was concerned in the tumult, but, on the contrary, all of them exerted their influence to prevent mifchief, every thing was foon qviiet, and Tinah and Iddeah returned to let me know that all was fettled. They went on board, with fome other chiefs, and dined with me.
After dinner, I went on Ihore with Tinah and his
friends ;
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 129
friends ; and I found three large hogs drefled, and a quan- tity of bread-fruit, which he had ordered to be ])repared l>efore he went on board, and now defired I would prefent them to tlie different parties that had come to fee the enter- tainment: — one to the chief people of Attahooroo, one to the Arreoys, and a third to the performers of the hciva. I prefented them according to his diredtions, and they were received with thank fulnefs and pleafure. This 1 looked upon as very handfomely done on the partof Tinah, and I was glad to fee that it was regarded in the fame light by his guefts. Thefe inftances of liberality make full amends for the little flips which I have formerly noticed in Tinah. At this time, a day feldom pafTcd, that he did not give proofs of his hofpitality, by entertaining the principal people that came from different parts of the ifland to vifit him, or to fee the fliip. Some of the chiefs he commonly invited to dine on board, and made provifion for others on fhore. Scarce any perfon of confequence went away without receiving fome prefent from him. This I encouraged, and was glad it was in my power to affift him. But, belides the political motives that I have alluded to, it would be unjuft to Tinah not to ac- knowledge that his difpofition feemed improved: he was more open and unreferved in his manners tlian formerly, and his hofpitality was natural and without oftentation.
Monday the i6th. I was prefent this afternoon, at a Monday 16. wTcrtling match by women. The manner of challeng- ing, and method of attack, was exadlly the fame as among the men. The only difference that I could obferve, was not in favour of the fofter fex ; for in thefe contefls they fhewed lefs temper and more animofity than I could have imagined them capable of. The women, I was told, ■not only wreftle with each other, but fometinies with
S the
X30
A VOYAGE TO
Tuefday 17.
Monday 23.
Wednefd.iy 25.
the men ; of this I have never feen an inftance, and ima- gine it can happen but feldom, as the women in general are fmall, and by no means mafculine. Iddeah is faid to be very famous at this exercife.
I walked with Tinah towards the hills, to fee his country refidence, which was at a very neat houfe, pleafantly litu- ated, and furrounded with plantations. From this place we faw the ifland Tethuroa. The next morning, I went to Matavai, to look after the Indian corn, which I judged would be full ripe for gathering ; but, on my arrival, I found that the natives had been before hand with, me, the whole being taken away. This I was not at all forry for, as it fhows that they value it too much to negledt cultivating it.
Iddeah £ent on board, for our dinners to-day, a very fine tarro pudding; and Tinah brought a btmch of bananas, that weighed 8i lbs. on which were 286 fine fruit : ten had broken off in the carriage. The tarro pudding is excellent eating, and eafily made : I Ihall defcribe this piece of cookery, as the knowledge of it may be ufeful in the Weft Indies. The tarro being cleared of the outfide fkin, is grat- ed down, and made up in rolls of about half a pound each, which they cover neatly with leaves, and bake for near half an hour. An equal quantity of ripe cocoa-nut meat is likewife grated, from which, through a flrainer, the rich milky juice is expreflTed. 7 his juice is heated, by put- ting fmooth hot ftones in the vefiel that contains it, and the tarro is then mixed with it, and kept conftantly ftirring to prevent burnings till it is ready, which is known by the cocoa-nut juice turning to a clear oil.
Iddeah was very uneafy to-day, on account of her youngeft child being ill. She would not accept of aflSftance from our furgeon, but faid flie had fent to Tettaha for a
man,
THE SOUTH SEAS, fee. 131
man, who flie expe<5led would come and tell her what to do. 1789. Thefe phyfical people are called Tata rapaozv. ^b^ru^.
Thurfday the 26th. This morning, a man died of a con- Thurfday 26. fumption, about two miles from our poft. I was informed of it by Mr. Peckover, the gunner, who I had defired to look out for fuch a circumftance. I therefore went, accompanied by Iddeah, in hopes of feeing the funeral ceremony ; but before we arrived, the body was removed to the Toopapow. It lay- bare, except a piece of cloth round the loins, and another round the neck : the eyes were clofed : the hands were pla- ced, one over the pit of the ftomach, and the other upon his breaft. On a finger of each hand was a ring, made of platted fibres of the cocoa-nut tree, with a fmall bunch of red feathers. Under the Toopapow a hole was dug, in which, at the end of a month, the corpfe was to be buried. The deceafed was of the lower clafs ; the Toopapow, how- ever, was neat, and offerings of cocoa-nuts and platted leaves lay on the ground.
The dead are fometimes brought to the Toopapow in •wooden coflSns, v/hich are not fhaped like ours, but are limply a long box. This cuftom, Iddeah informed me, they learnt from the Europeans, and is not very common, as making plank is a work of great labour.
Monday, March the 2d. When I landed this morning, Mondaya. I found the inhabitants, that lived near to us, had left their houfcs, and retired towards the mountains ; and was in- formed that in the night a water cafk, part of an azimuth compafs, and Mr. Peckover's bedding, had been ftolen from the poft on fhore; the' knowledge of which had caufed a genera] alarm. I fent a meflage to complain of this theft to Tinah, who did not come near me. About two hours elapfed, during which time I went on board to breakfaft,
S 2 and
J32 A V O Y A G E T O
i7?9, and returned, when I faw Tinah and Oreepyah-, with a March, number of people, at a houfe at fome diftance; and foon after they all marched to the eaftward, paffing clofe by our poft. Oedidee, who was with me, told me that they had in- telligence of the thief, and were gone in queft of him : and in lefs than an hour, news was brovight that they had taken him. Shortly after, the whole party appeared, with the water-cafk and compafs. Tinah had hold of the thief by the -ariTi, and, fliewing him to me, defiredthat I would kill him. The bedding, he faid, he had not heard of, but would go in fearch of it. I applauded him for the pains he had taken in this bufinefs, and explained, with fome fuccefs, the injuftice of ftealing from us : that if any of our people committed the leaft offence againft them, it did not pafs unnoticed ; and that friendfhip required on their part, that thofe who injured us Ihould not be protedled by them. Tinah ftop- ped me from faying more by embracing me, and the whole crowd cried out 7>'o mity (i, e. good friends) Tinah then left me, to enquire after the bedding, and I fent the offender on board, whom I punillied with a fevere flogging. I was glad to find this man was not of Oparre or Matavai.
The fine fruit, called Avee, was juil coming into fea- fon : it was likewife in feafon at the time of our ar- rival in October. The bread-fruit trees, I have no doubt, bear all the year round : we have feen a fcarcity of bread- fruit, but have never been v/hoUy without it. Some fern- root was fiiewn to me, which, in fcarce feafons, is ufed by the natives as bread. It bears a long even-edged leaf, about an inch wide ; the tafte fdmewhat refembled that of a yam. I was informed by our people, that in their walks they faw, in many places, patches of Indian corn juil mak- ing
THE SOUTH SEAS, ^cc. 133
ing their appearance through the ground. This convinces 1789. me that the corn taken from Matavai could not have been y^]^l"^ better difpofed of.
Goats are frequently offered for fale, hut I rather cUfcou- raged the buying of them, for fear of injuring the breed. The natives will not eat them, neither will they tafte the milk ; and afk, with fdme appearance of difguft, why we do not milk the fows ? I endeavoured to prevail on Tinah and Iddeah to eat the goats milk, by mixing it with fruit, but they would only try one fpoonfid.
We had began to make preparations for failing ; and Tinah fupplied us with a fufficient ftock of wood, by or- dering trees to be brought tlown from the country. He had frequently expreffed a wifli that I would leave fome fire-arms and ammunition with him, as he expeded to be attacked after the fhip failed ; and, perhaps, chiefly on ac- count of our partiality to him : I, therefore, thought it but reafonable to attend to his requeft ; and I was the more readily prevailed on, as he faid his intentions were to adt only on the defcnfive. This indeed feems moft fuited to his difpofition, which is neither acftive nor enterprifing. If Tinah had fpirit in proportion to his fize and ftrength, he would probably be the greateft warrior in Otaheite : but courage is not the moft confpicuous of his virtues. When I promifed to leave with him a pair of piftols, which they prefer to mufkets, he told me, that Iddeah would fight with one, and Ocdidee with the other. Iddeah has learnt to load and fire a mufquet with great dexterity, and Oedidee is an excellent markfmun. It is not common for women in this comitry to go to war, but Iddeah is a very refolute woman, of a large make, and has great bodily ftrength.
Friday
134 A VOYAGE TO
1789. Friday the 6th. I fent Mr. Fryer, the matter, to found
^March^^ Taowne harbour. The knowledge that we intended fliortly Friday 6. to fail, having fpread among the natives, a great many broken iron tools were brought from all parts of the ifland, to be repaired at our forge ; and this morning, a meffenger arrived from Waheatua, the Earee of Tiarraboo, with feve- ral pieces of Spanifli iron, which he defired to have made into fmall adzes. This requeft "sras, of courfe, complied with.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec, 135
C H A P. XI.
Arrival of aft jirreoy Woman from Tetburoa. — A prefent delivered by "tinah for bis Majejly. — Other Occurrences to tbe Time of the Ship's Departure from Otabeite.
FROM the cth to the 14th of this month, the wind blew ,J789- -' ~ ' March.
conftantly from between the N W and S W, with a <_ ,- /
great deal of rain. This was the longefl continviance of wefterly winds without interruption, that we experienced. On the 13th, feveral canoes arrived here, and at Matavai, from Tethuroa : in thefe were a large tribe of the Arreoys, and among them Huheine Moyere, the wife of Oreepyah> who is an Arreoy woman, and remained at Tethuroa after Oreepyah came away. On her arrival, a ceremony was performed, called Hooepippee, which feemed to be defign- ed as a public vifit to all their friends, who are collecfled on the occafion. In this ceremony, there was nothing re- markable : the Arreoy men took their opportunity to plun- der the women who were near them, and Iddeah made a prefent of fome cloth to Huheine Moyere, and a baked hog to the Arreoys.
After this ceremony, a prefent was produced from many Friday 13, of the principal people, for young Otoo, the Earee Rahie ; which was received by Iddeah, Tinah being abfent. This preient conlifted of five hogs, and forty-eight bafkets filled with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, tarro, and diflferent kinds of puddings. The bafkets were decorated with flips of cloth> 4 itained
136 A V O Y A G E T O
i7?9. ftained with variety of colours, and carried by 24 men, March. ^^^|^ ^f whom had a pole on his llioulder, at each end of which was abaflcet.
I have feldom fpoken of Otoo, who was too young to have any Ihare in the management of affairs, and with whom we were not permitted to have any intercourfe, except fpeaking to him now and then, acrofs a river ; at which times, I did not negled to fend the children fome little prefents, fo that they always rejoiced to fee me. I might have been admitted to a nearer acquaintance, if I would have gone with my flioulders uncovered, as his pa- rents did, but this I declined. The children do not all live under the fame roof, the two lifters eating and fleeping in a feparate houfe, though at other times, they are gene- rally together.
The ifland Tethuroa may very properly be compared to fome of our watering places in England, producing a fimi- lar efFe6t upon thofe who vilit it. Many, who went there covered with fcurf, returned plump and fair, and fcarce like the fame people. This alteration for the better, is in a great meafure to be attributed to the difcontinuance of the Ava, which Tethuroa does not produce: the cocoa-nut trees, like wife, which fupply them with their only beve- rage, growing on low iandy keys, and having their roots below the level of the fea, may probably have qualities dif- ferent from the cocoa-nuts of Otaheite; which, with a plenty of fifli, that at other times they are not accuftomed to, muft no doubt contribute to the amendment defcribed. . Saturday 14. Saturday 14th. I was vifited to-day by a very old mian, an uncle to Tupia, the perfon who went from thefe iflands in the Endeavour, in the year 1769, and who died at Bata- •via. He appeared to be aear 70 years old, and w,as treated
with
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 137
with much rcfpedl by the natives. He made feveral en- .,'789-
March.
quiries concerning his nephew, and requefted that when I ■_ -— j came again, I would bring his hair. At the time that Ti» nah mentioned to me his dciire of vifiting England, I afked Avhat account I could give to his friends, if he fhould not live to return ; to which he replied, that I muft cut off his hair, and carry it to them, and they would be perfectly fatisfied. ■»
On the i6th, I was informed, that a flop was put to the Monday i6. fale of hogs, in the diftridl of Tettaha. Teppahoo, the Earee of that diflridt, told me that they had very few hogs left there, and that it was necelTary, for a certain time, to pro- hibit every perfon from killing or felling, that they might have time to breed. I did not think it reafonable to folicit any indulgence on this head : my friends at Matavai and Oparre promifed to fupply us, as long as we remained here, though we had confiderably thinned their ftock. After our departure, the fame reftricftion was to take place inthefe diftrids, and it being delayed on our account, cer- tainly defcrves to be regarded among their aifls of friend- iliip towards us.
As it was generally known that we were prej^aring to fail, a number of the natives from other parts of the ifland were conftajitly with us, and petty thefts were committed, whenever the negligence of our people afforded an op- portunity : but no attempt of any confequence was made.
This evening, Mr. Samwel, my clerk, returned from an Thurfday (Cxcurfion to the mountains, having been two days abfent. '^' He defcribcd the hills to be well clothed with wood, except the tops of the higher mountains, which only produced ■buflies and fern. The birds he faw, Merc blue paroquets
T and
138 AVOYAGETO
1789. and green doves, except one, which he found burrowing in
^ **[!"'. the ground, and brought to me. This bird was about the
lize of a pigeon, and proved to be a white-beUied peterel,
^ of the fame kind as thofe feen in high latitudes, which are
called fheerwaters. He like wife brought a branch of a plant, like the New Zealand tea-plant, and which, at Van Diemen's land, we had made ufe of for brooms. From the hills he faw the iflands Maitea and Huaheine, which are Htuated nearly in oppofite direflions from Otaheite, and are 70 leagues diftant from each other. Friday 37. por fome days paft, Tinah had been bufied in getting
two ParaiSf or mourning- drefles, made, which he intended as a prefent to King George. Being finifhed, they were this morning hung up in his houfe, as a public exhibition, and a long prayer made on the occalion ; the fubftance of which was, that the King of England might for ever re-- main his friend, and not forget him. When he prefented the parais for me to take on board, he could not refrain from flieding tears. During the fliort remainder of our flay here, there appeared among the natives an evident de- gree of forrow, that we were fo foon to leave them, which they fhewed by unufual kindnefs and attention.
We began, this afternoon, to remove the plants to the fhip. They were in excellent order : the roots had appear- ed through the bottom of the pots, and would have Ihot into the ground, if care had not been taken to pre- vent it.
The weather was cpnliderably altered for the better, and the trade-wind appeared fettled. The rainy and bad feafon of the year, may be reckoned to begin towards the end of November, and to continue till near the end of March. During this time, the winds are variable, and often wef- X terly^,
T II E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 139
terly, though we fcldom found them to blow flrong in that diredtion. We likewife experienced frequent intervals of fine weather ; but, during thefc months, fo open a road as Matavai bay is not a fafe anchoring-place for fliips that intend remaining any length of time at Otaheite.
Tuefday the 31ft. To-day, all the plants were on board, Tuefday 31. being in 774 pots, 39 tubs, and 24 boxes. The number of bread-fruit plants were 1015 : befides which, we had collected a number of other plants. The avee, which is one of the fineft-flavoured fruits in the world. The a\yah^ which is a fruit not fo rich, but of a fine flavour and very refrelliing. The rattah^ not much unlike a chefnut, w4iich grows on a large tree, in great quantities : they are fingly in large pods, from one to two inches broad; and may be eaten raw, or boiled in the fame manner as Windfor beans, and fo dreffed, are equally good. The orai'ttb, which is a very fuperior kind of plantain. All thefe I was particularly recommended to collect, by my worthy friend. Sir Jofeph Banks. I had alfo taken on board fome plants of the ettow and matte^ with which the natives here make a beautiful red colour ; and a root called /^f^Z*, of which they make an excellent pudding.
I now made my laft prefents to feveral of my friends, with whom I had been moft intimate, particularly to Teppahoo. Several people expreflTed great defirc to go with us to England. Oedidee, who was always very much attached to us, faid, he confidered it as his right, having formerly left his native place, to fail with Captain Cook. Scarce any man belonging to the fliip was without a tyo^ who brought to him prefents, chiefly of provifions for a fea ftore.
T % Friday
140 . A V O Y A G E TO
Friday the 3d of April. Tinah and his wife, with his- parents, brothers, and lifter, dined w'ith me to-day, and, aS'
Fridays. I meant to fail early the next morning, they all remained, onboard for the night. The fliip was crouded the whole day with the natives, and we were loaded with cocoa-nuts,, plantains, bread-fruit, hogs, and goats. In the evening, there was no dancing or mirth on the beach, fuch as we had been accuftomed to, but all w^as iilent.
Saturday 4. At day-light, we unmoored: the flock of the befl: bower anchor was fo much eaten by the worms, that it broke in flowing the anchor •. the fmall bower had an iron flock ; and in thefe voyages, it is very necefTary that fliips fhould be provided with iron anchor flocks. At half pall fix, there being no wind, we v/eighed, and, wdth our boats and two fweeps, towed the fhip out of the harbour. Soon after, the. fea breeze came, and we flood off towards the fea.
The outlet of Toahroah harbour being narrow, I could permit only a few of the natives to be on board : many others, how^ever, attended in canoes, till the breeze came, when I was obliged to leave them. We flood off and on, almoft all the remainder of the day. Tinah and Iddeah, prefTed me very flrongly to anchor in Matavai bay, and Hay one night longer ; but, as I had already taken leave of moll of my friends, I thought it better to keep to my intention of' failing. After dinner, I ordered the prefents which I had re- ferved for Tinah and his wife, to be put in one of thelliip's- boats, and, as I had promifed him fire-arms, I gave hini two mufkets, a pair of piflols, and a good flock of ammu-- nition. 1 then reprefented to them, the neceffity of their going away, that the boat might return to the lliip before it was dark -, on which they took a molt affedlionate leave
of
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 141
of me, and went into the boat. One of their expreOion?, at parting, was " Vourab no f Eatua tee eveerah.'^ " May *' the Eatua proteiSl you, for ever and ever."
All the time that we remained at Otaheite, the pidlure of Captain Cook, at the dellre of Tinah, was kept on board thefliip. On dehvering it to him, I wrote on the back, the time of the fliip's arrival and departure, with an account of the number of plants on board.
Tinah had defired that I would falute him, at his depar- ture, with the great guns, which I could not comply with, for fear of dillurbing the plants; but, as a parting token of our regard, we manned fliip with all hands, and gave him three cheers. At fun-fet, the boat returned, and we made fail, bidding farewell to Otaheite, where for twenty-three weeks w^e had been treated with the utmoft afFe6lion and regard, and which feemed to increafe in proportion to our Itay. That we were not infenfible to their kindnefs, the events which followed more than fufficiently proves : for to the friendly and endearing behaviour of thefe people, may be afcribed the motives for that event which efFecSled the ruin of an expedition, that there was every reafon to hope, would have been completed in the moft fortunate manner. ~ To enter into a defcription of the ifland, or its inhabi- rants, I look upon as- fuperfluous. From the accounts of former voyages, and the fa(5ts which I have related, the charader of the people will appear in as true a light, as by any defcription in my power to give. The length of time that we remained at Otaheite, with the advantage of hav- ing been there before, gave me opportunities of making, perhaps, a more. perfect vocabulary of the language, than has yet appeared ; but I have chofen to defer it for the pre-
fent,
14* A V O Y A O E T O
i^gp, fent, as tliwe is a probability that I may hereafter be better
April.
qualified for fuch a tafk.
We left Otaheite with only two patients in the venereal lift, which fliows that the difeafe has not gained ground. The natives fay that it is of little confequence, and we faw feveral inftances of people that had been infed:ed, who, after abfenting themfelves for 15 or 20 days, made their appear- ance again, without any vilible fymptom remaining of the difeafe. Their m.ethod of cure I am unacquainted with ; but their cuftomary diet, and mode of living, muft contribute towards it. We faw a great many people, however, with fcrophulous habits, and bad fores : thefe they denied to be produced from any venereal caufe ; and our furgeon was of the fame opinion.
The refult of the mean of 50 fets of lunar obfervations, taken by me on fhore, gives for the Longitude of Point Venus — — — 210 33 57 E
Capt. Cook, in 1769, places it in — aio 27 30
In 1777, his laft voyage — — 210 22 28
The tide, in Toahroah harbour, was very inconfiderable, and not regular. The greateft rife that I obferved, was 1 1 inches; but, what was moft lingular, the time of high water did not appear to be governed by the moon, it being at the higheft, every day, between noon and two o'clock. The variable winds and weather, at this time of the year, has no doubt an influence on the tides : on fome days, fcarce any rife was perceptible.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 143
R I L.
CHAP. xn.
ylt the Ijland Huaheine — A Friend of Oinai vifits the Ship. —
Leave the Society IJlands. — A Water-fpout. — The Ijland
IVbytootackee difcovered. — Anchor in Annamooka Road. —
Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives. — Sail
from Annamooka. — The Chiefs detained o« board. — Part
friendly.
WE fleered towards the illand Huaheine, which we 1789, got fight of the next morning. At noon we brought to, near the entrance of Owharre harbour, it not Sundays. being my intention to anchor. We could fee every part of the harbour dirtin(5lly, but my attention was particularly direcfled to the fpot where Omai's houfe had flood, no part of which was now vifible. It was near three o'clock, before any canoes came off to us, for the people on fhore imagined that the fhip was coming into the harbour. The firft that arrived, had three men in it, who brought a few cocoa-nuts. I enquired about the chief, or Earee Rabie ; and one of the fellows, with great gravity, faid, he was the Earee Rabie, and that he had come to defire I would bring the fliip into the harbour. I could not help laughing at his impudence : however, I gave him a few nails for his cocoa-nuts, and he left us. Immediately after, a double canoe, in which were ten men, came alongfide; among them was a young man,, who recollected and called me by my name. Several other
canoes
144 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. canoes arrived, with hogs, yams, and other provilions, L -!- ^Lf which we purchafed. My acquaintance told me that he had lived M'ith our friend Omai. He confirmed the account that has already been given, and informed me, that, of all the animals which had been left with Omai, the mare only re- mained ahve. He faid that Omai and himfclf had often rode together ; and I obferved, that many of the iflanders, who came on board, had the reprefentation of a man on horfeback tattowed on their legs. After the death of Omai, his houfe was broken to pieces, and the materials flolen. The fire-arms were at Ulietea, but ufelefs. I enquired after the feeds and plants, and was informed that they were all deftroyed, /except one tree ; but of what kind that was, I could not make out from their defcription. I was much prefled to take the fliip into the harbour, and Omai's com- panion requ^fted me to let him go to England. When they found that I would not flop among them, they feemed jealous of our going to Ulietea, and it appeared to give them fome latisfadion, when I told them that I lliould not go near that ifland.
The canoes had left us, and we were making fail, when we difcovered an Indian in the water, fwimming towards the Ihore, which in all probability he would not have been able to reach. We took him up, and, luckily, another canoe coming alongfide, we put him in her. The people of the canoe faid that the man was infar.e ; but how he came to be fMdmmit-ig fo far from the land, \\ e could not conje(5tiu:e.. At fix o'clock we made fail, and ran all night to the S W, and S W by S, between the illands Huaheine and Ulietea. The next morning, I altered the courfe, fleering more to the weilward, for the Friendly Hlands. Tixurfdayp. Gil tlic 9th, at nine o'clock in the inoniing, the weather
bec'cWiie
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 145
Lecame fqually, and a body of thick black clouds coUe^lcd 17S9. in the eaft. Soon after, a water-fpout was feen at no great ._ 1^^ ''\ tliftance from us, which appeared to great advantage from the darknefs of the clouds behind it. As nearly as could judge, it was about two feet diameter at the upper i>art, and about eight inches at the lower. 1 had fcarce made thefc remarks, when I obferved that it was advancing rapidly to- wards the Ihip. We immediately altered our courfe, and took in all the fails, except the forefliil; loon after which, it paffed within ten yards of our Itern, making a ruflling noife, but without our feeling the lealt effect from its being fo near us. The rate at which it travelled, I' judged to be about ten miles per hour, going towards the well in the di- rection of the wind. In a quarter of an hour after palling us, it difperfed. I never was fo near a water-fpout before : the conne6lion between the column, which was higher than our maft-heads, and the water below, was no otherwife vifible, than by the fea being difturbed in a circular fpace of about fix yards in diameter, the centre of which, from the whirling of the water round it, formed a hollow; and from the outer parts of the circle, the water was thrown up with much force, in a fpiral direction, and could be traced to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. At this elevation we loft fight of it, and could fee nothing of its juncTtion with the column above. It is impoflible to fay what injury we fliould have fuffered, if it had paffed dire(5tly over us. Malts, I imagine, might have been carried away, but I do not apprehend it would have endangered the lofs of a fliip.
As we failed very near the track made in former voyages, I had little reafon to expe»ftthat we fliould at this time make any new difcovery: neverthelefs, on the nth, at day-light, Saturday u. land was {qqh to the S S \V, at about five leagues dillance,
U which ,
146 A V O Y A G E T O
April.
which appeared to be an iiland of a moderate height. On the north part was a round hill : the N W part was higheft and fteep : the S E part floped off to a low point.
The wind had been wefterly lince the prece(4ing noon^ and at the time we law the land, the fliip was {landing to the N W. At fix, we tacked to the fouthward, and, as we- advanced in that dire6tion,, difcovered a number of low keys, of which at noon we counted nine : they were all- covered with trees. The large iiland firft feen had a moib fruitful appearance, its fhore being bordered with flat land, on which grew innumerable cocoa-nut and other trees; and the higher grounds beautifully interfperfed with lawns» The wind being light and unfavourable, we endeavoured all day, but without fiiccefs, to get near the land. In the night we had a heavy fquall, which obliged us to clew up. all our fails, and foon after it fellcalmi Sunday 12. On the lath, the winds were light and variable all day,, with calms. At two in the afternoon, we were within three miles of the fouthernmoft key, and could fee a number of people within the reefs. Shortly after, a canoe, in which were four men, paddled off to us, and came alongfide,. without fliewing any figns of apprehenfion or furprife. I, gave them a few beads, and they came into the Ihip. One man, who feemed to have an afcendency over the others,, looked about the fliip with fome appearance of curiolity,. but none of them would venture to go below. They afked; for fome boiled frefh pork, which they faw in a bowl, be- longing to one of the feamen, and it was given them to eat,, with boiled plantains. Being told that I was the Earee or chief of the fhip, the principal perfon came and joined nofes with me, and prefented to me a large mother of pearl fliell,
7 which
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c.. 147
which hung with platted hair round his neck ; this he faftencd round ray neck, with figns of great fatisfaction.
They Ipoke the fame language as at Otaheite, with very little variation, as far as I could judge. In a fmall vocabu- lary, that I made whillt converfing with thefe men, only four Mords, out of tw^enty-four, difi'ered from the Otaheite. The name of the large illand, theytoldme,wasWytootackee, and the Earee was called Lomakkayah. They faid that there were no hogs, dogs, or goats upon the ifland, nor had they yams, or tarro ; but that plantains, cocoa-nuts, fowls, bread- fruit, and avees, were there in great abundance. Notwith- ftanding they faid that no hogs were on the illand, it w^as evident they had feen luch animals; for they called them by the fame name as is given to them at Otaheite, which made me fufpedl that they were deceiving me. However, I' ordered a young boar and fow to be put into their canoe, with fome yams and tarro, as we could afford to part with fome of thefe articles. I alfo gave to each of them a knife, a fmall adze, fome nails, beads, and a looking-glafs. The latter they examined with great curioiity ; but with the iron- work they appeared to be acquainted ; calling it aouree, which is the common name for iron among the illands where it is known.
As they were preparing to leave us, the chief of the canoe took poffeffion of every thing that I had given to the others. One of them fliewed fome figns of diffatisfa6tion ; but, after a little altercation, they joined nofes, and were reconciled. I now thought they were going to leave the fliip; but only two of them went into the canoe, the other two purpofmg to Itay all night with us, and to have the canoe return for them in the morning. I would have treated their confidence with the regard it merited, but it was impolTible to fay how
U 2 far
148
A VOYAGE TO
1789.
April.
Saturday 18.
Tuefday 21.
far the fliip might he driven from the ifland in the nightr. This I explained to them, and they rehidtantly confented to leave us. They were very folicitous that fomebody from the Ihip fliould go on fliore with them ; and juft before they quirted us, they gave me a wooden fpear, which was the only thing, the paddles excepted, they had brought with them in the canoe. It was a common long ftafF, pointed with the toa wood.
The ifland of Wytootackee is about ten miles in circuit ;; its latitude from i8° 50' to 18° 54' S, and longitude 200° 19' E. A group of fmall keys, eight in number, lie to the S E, four or five miles diftant from Wytootackee, and a lingle one to the W S W ; the fouthernmoft of the group is in latitude 18° 58' S. Variation of the compafs 8° \\ E.
The people that came off to us did not differ in appearance from the natives of Hervey's Iflands, feen in Captain Cook's lait voyage, though much more friendly and inoffenfive in their manners. They were tattowed acrofs the arms andlegSy but not on the loins or pofteriors,.like the people of Otaheite.. From their knowledge of iron, they have doubtlefs commu- nication with Hervey's lilands, which are not more thaii. eighteen leagues diftant from them.
In the night, a breeze fpriuig up from the fouth, and Ave continued our courfe to the weft ward.
On the 1 8th, at fun-fet, we faw Savage Ifland; and in the night, pafTed by to the fouth ward of it.
At eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 21ft, we faw the ifland Caow, from the raaft-head, bearing N W by W % W. This ifland is a high mountain, with a (liarp-pointed top, and is the northwelfernmoft of all the Friendly Iflands. At noon we faw it very diftindlly from the deck, it being then nineteen leagues diilant from us.
The
. T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 149
The wind being to the fouthwani, we could not fetch Annamooka, at which illand I intended to rtop, before the evening of the 23d, when we anchored in the road, in Thurfday 23. twenty-three fathoms; the extremes of Annamooka bearing E by N and S by E, our diltance from tlie lliore being half a league. In the middle of the day, a canoe had come off to us from the illand Mango, in ^^»hicll was a chief, named Latoomy-lange, who dined with me. Immediately on our anchoring, feveral canoes came alongfide, with yams and cocoa-nuts, but none of the natives offered to come on board, without firlf alking permiflion. As yet, I had feen no perfon with whom 1 could recolleil to have been for- merly acquainted. I made enqtiiries after fome of our old friends, particularly the chiefs, but I found myfelf not fuf- liciently mailer of the language to obtain the information I wanted.
Friday the 24th. Our flation being inconvenient for FrLday24. watering, at daylight we weighed, and worked more to the eaftward, where we anchored in twenty-one fathoms ; the extremes of Annamooka bearing N 85° E, and S 33° W; the Sandy bay S 73' E ; our diftance from the Ihore, half a league. Sounded all round the fliip, and found the ground to be a coarfe coral bottom, but with even foundings.
By this time, fome large failing canoes were arrived from different iflands in the neighbourhood of Annamooka ; and an old lame man, named Tepa^ whom I had known in 1777, and immediately recolle^fted, came on board. Two other chiefs, whofe names were Noocaboo and Kunocappo, were with him. Tci^i having formerly been accuftomed to our manner of fpeaking their language, I found I could con- verfe with him tolerably well. He informed me, that Poulaho, Feenow, and Tubow, were alive, and at Tonga- taboo,
i^o A V O Y A G E T O
1789. taboo, and that they wonld come hither as foon as they n_ ^~'[-^'_> heard of our arrival, of which he promifed to fend them immediate notice. He faid that the cattle which we had left at Tongataboo, had aU bred, and that the old ones were yet living. He enquired after feverai people who were here with Captain Cook. Being defirous to fee the fliip, I took him and his companions below, and fhewed them the bread-fruit and other plants, at feeing which they were greatly furprifed. I made each of them a prefent ; and, when they had fitisfied their curiolity, I invited them to go on fliore with me in the fliip's boat.
I took Nelfon with me to procure fome bread-fruit plants, one of our flock being dead, and two or three others a little lickly. When we landed, there were about two hundred people on the beach, moft of them women and children. Tepa fliewed me a large boat-houfe, which, he told me, we might make ufe of; thinking we fliould have a party on fliore, as our fliips had formerly. I went with him in fearch of water, but could find no better place than where Captain Cook had watered, which is a quarter of a mile in- land from the eaft end of the beach, I next walked to the weft point of the bay, where fome plants and feeds had been fown by Captain Cook; and had the fatisfaition to fee, in a plantation ciofe by, about twenty fine pine-apple plants, but no fruit, this not being the proper feafon. They told me, that they had eaten many of them, that they were fine and large, and that at Tongataboo there were great numbers.
When I returned to the landing-place, I was defired to fit down, and a prefent was brought me, which confifled of fome btindles of cocoa-nuts only. This fell fliort of my expedtations ; however, I appeared fatisfied, and diflributed beads and trinkets to the women and children near me.
Numerous
T H E S O U T H S £ A S, &c. 151
Numerous were the marks of mourning with which chefe people disfigure themlelves, fuch as bloody temples, their heads deprived of moft of the hair, and, what was worfe, almort all of them with the lofs of fome of their fingers. Several fine boys, not above fix years old, had loft both their little fingers; and fomeof the'men, befidesthefe, had parted with, the middle finger of the right hand.
The chiefs went off with me to dinner, and I found a brifk trade carrying on at the Ihip for yams ; fome plan- tains and bread-fruit were likewife brought on board, but no hogs. In the afternoon, more failing canoes arrived, fome of which contained not lefs than ninety paffengprs. We purchafed eight hogs, fome dogs, fowls, and fhad- docks. Yams were in great abundance, very fine and large; one yam weighed above forty-five pounds. Among the people that came this afternoon, were two of the name of Tubow, which is a family of the firft diftindlion among the Friendly Iflands ; one of them was chief of the illand Lefooga ; with him and Tepa I went on fliore to fee the wooding place. 1 found a variety of fizeable trees ; but the kind which I principally pitched upon, was the Barringtonia, of Forfl:er. 1 acquainted Tepa with my in- tention of fending people to cut wood, which meeting with, his approbation, we parted.
X On the a5th, at daylight, the wooding and watering par- Saturday 25. ties went on fhore. I had directed them not to cut the kind of tree *, which, when Captain Cook wooded here in 1777, blinded, for a time, many of the wood-cutters.. They had not been an hour on fliore^ before one man had an axe ftolen from him, and another an adze. Tepa was
• Excxcarta Agalhcha Linn. Sp. PL called in the Malay Language, Caju Maia Baata, which fignifies, the tree that wounds the eyes.
applied:
152 A V O Y A G E T O
applied to, who got the axe reftored, but the adze was not recovered. In the evening we completed wooding. Sunday z6. Sundav the 26th. In the morning, Nelfon went on fliore to get a few plants ; but, no principal chief being among the people, he was infulted, and a fpade taken from him. A boat's grapnel was likewife flolen from the watering party. Tepa recovered the fpade for us ; but the croud of natives was become fo great, by the number of canoes that had arrived from different illands, that it was impof- fible to do any thing, where there was fuch a multitude of people, without a chief of fufficient authority to command the whole. I therefore ordered the watering party to go on board, and determined to fail ; for 1 could not difcover that any canoe had been fent to acquaint the chiefs of Tongataboo of our being here. For fome time after the thefts were committed, the chiefs kept away, but before noon, they came on board.
At noon, we unmoored, and at one o'clock, got under fail. The two Tubows, Kunocappo, Latoomy-lange, and another chief, were on board, and I acquainted them, that, unlefs the grapnel was returned, they mult remain in the fliip. They were furprifed, and not a little alarmed. Ca- noes were immediately difpatched after the grapnel, which, I was informed, could not poffibly be brought to the Ihip before the next day, as thofe who had ftolen it, in:ime- diately fajled with their prize to another ifland. Never- thelefs, 1 detained them till fun-fet, when their uneafinefs and impatience increafed to fuch a degree, that they began to beat themfelves about the face and eyes, and fome of them cried bitterly. As this diitrefs was more than the grapnel was worth, and I had no reafon to imagine that they were privy to, or in any manner concerned in the theft,
1 could
THE SOUTH SEAS, l<c, 153
I could not think, of detaining them longer, and called their 1789. canoes alongfide. I then told them they were at liberty to ^_ — .— ^'j go, and made each of them a prefent of a hatchet, a faw, with fome knives, gimblets, and nails. This unexpedted prefent, and the fudden change in their fituation, afFe<Sled them not lefs with joy than they had before been with apprehenfion. They were imbounded in their acknow- ledgments ; and I have little doubt but that we parted bet- ter friends than if the affair had never happened.
We ftood to the northward all night, with light winds; and on the next day, the 27th, at noon, were between the Monday 27. iflands Tofoa and Kotoo. Latitude obferved 19° 18' S.
Thus far, the voyage had advanced in a courfe of imin- terrupted profperity, and had been attended with many circumftances equally pleafing and fatisfa<5lory. A very different fcene was now to be experienced. A confpiracy had been formed, which was to render all our paft labour produdlive only of extreme mifery and diflrefs. The means had been concerted and prepared with fo much fe- crecy and circumfpe(5tion, that no one circumftance aji- peared to occafion the fmalleft fufpicion of the impending calamity.
G H A P.
154 AVOYAGETO
CHAP. XIII.
A Mutiny in the Ship:
1789. "^XZ"^ kept near the ifland Kotoo, all the afternoon, in '_ -^- !l; * '^ hopes that feme canoes would come off to the fliip ; Monday 27. bvit in this I was difappointed. The wind being northerly, in the evening, we fleered to the weflward, to pafs to the fouth of Tofoa. I gave dire<5lions for this conrfe to be con- tinued during the night. The mailer had the firft watch; the gunner the middle watch; and Mr. Chriftian the morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the night. Tucfday 28. Tuefday the 28th. Jufl before fun-riling, while I was yet afleep, Mr. Chriftian, with the matter at arms, gunner's mate, and Thomas Burkitt, feaman, came into my cabin, and feizing me, tied my hands wdth a cord behind my back, threatening me with inftant death, if I fpoke or made the leaft noife : I, however, called as loud as I could, in hopes of alliftance ; but they had already fecured the offi- cers who were not of their party, by placing centinels at their doors. There were three men at my cabin door, be- fides the four within ; Chriftian had only a cutlafs in his hand, the others had mufkets and bayonets. I was hauled out of bed, and forced on deck in my fliirt, fuffering great pain from the tightnefs with which they had tied my hands. I demanded the reafon of fuch violence, but re- 3 ceived
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 155
ceived no other anfvver than abufe, for not holding my 1789. tongue. The mafter, the gunner, the furgeon, Mr. El- phinftone, mafter's mate, and Nelfon, were kept confined below ; and the fore hatchway was guarded by centinels. The boatfwain and carpenter, and alfo the clerk, Mr. Sa- muel, were allowed to come upon deck, where they faw me {landing abaft the mizen-niaft, with my hands tied behind' my back, under a guard, witk Chriftian at their head. The boatfwain was ordered to hoift the launch out, with a threat, if he did not do it inftantly, to take care of bimfelf.
When the boat was out, Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, two of'the midfliipmen, and Mr. Samuel, were ordered into it. I demanded what their intention was in giving this order, and endeavoured to perfuade the people near me not to pcrfift in fuch a6ls of violence ; but it was to no effetfl : " Hold your tongue, Sir, or you are dead this in- " ftant," was conftantly repeated to me.
The mafter, by this time, had fent to requeft that he might come on deck, which was permitted ; but he was foon ordered back again to his cabin.
I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs, when Chriilian changed the cutlafs which he had in his hand for a bayonet that was brought to him, and, holding me with a flrong gripe by the cord that tied my hands, he with many oaths threatened to kill me immediately, if I woidd not be quiet: the villains round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets fixed. Particular people were called on to go into the boat, and were hurried over the fide ; whence I concluded that with thefe people I was to be fet adrift : 1 therefore made another effort to bring about a change, but
X 2 with
156 AVOYAGETO
1789, with no other efFe£l than to be threatened with having my t ^-^'-^jj brains blown out.
The boatfwain and feamen, who were to go in the boat, were allowed to colleil twine, canvas, lines, fails, cord- age, an eight and twenty gallon cafk. of water, and Mr. Samuel got 150 lbs. of bread, with 3. fmall quantity of rum and wine, alfo a quadrant and compafs ; but he was for- bidden, on pain of death, to touch either map, ephemeris, book of aitronomical obfervations, fextant, time-keeper, or any of my furveys or drawings.
The mutineers having forced thofe of the feamen whom they meant to get rid of, into the boat, Chriftian directed a dram to be ferved to each of his own crew. I then un- happily faw that nothing could be done to effeil: the reco- very of the fliip: there was no one to affift me, and every endeavour on my part was anfwered with threats of death.
The officers were next called upon deck, and forced over the fide into the boat, while I was kept apart from every one, abaft the mizen-maft; Chriflian, armed with a bayo- net, holding me by the bandage that fecured my hands. The guard round me had their pieces cocked, but on my daring the ungrateful wretches to fire, they uncocked them.
Ifaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I faw, had an inclination to affift me, and as he fed me with ffiaddock, (my lips being quite parched) we explained our wifhes tO' each other by our looks ; but this being obferved, Martin was removed from me. He then attempted to leave the ffiip, for which purpofe he got into the boat; but with many threats they obliged him to return,
Th^
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 137
The armourer, Jofeph Coleman, and two of the carpcn- i;?^. ters, M'Intofli and Norman, were ahb kept contrary to their ^_^ -''l^ incUnation ; and they begged of me, after I was aftern in the boat, to remember that they declared they had no hand in the tranfatSlion. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewife wanted to leave the fliip.
It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to bring back the offenders to a lenfe of their duty : all I could do was by fpeaking to them in general; but it was to- no purpofe, for I was kept fecurely bound, and no one ex- cept the guard fufFered to come near me.
To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for fecuring my journals and commiflion, with feme material fhip papers. Without thefe I had nothing to certify what I had done, and my honour and characfler might have been fufpecfted, without my poffefling a proper document to have defended them. All this he did with great refolution, though guarded and fl:ri<5tly watched. He attempted to fave the time-keeper, and a box with my furveys, drawings, and remarks for fifteen years paft, which were numerous; when he was hurried away, with " Damn your eyes, you are well off to " get what you have."
It appeared to me, that Chriftian was fome time in doubt whether he fhould keep the carpenter, or his mates ; at length he determined on the latter, and the carpenter was ordered into the boat. He was permitted, but not w^ithout fome oppofition, to take his tool chert.
Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the whole bufinefs: fome fwore " I'll be damned if ** he does not find his way home, if he gets any thing with ** him," (meaning me); and, when the carpenter's cheft was carrying away, " Damn my eyes, he v/ill have a vcf-
" fel:
158 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. " fel built in a month." While others laughed at the
'- ''-!-^-' ^^Ipl^^s fituation of the boat, being very deep, and fo little
room for thofe who were in her. As for Ghriftian, he
feemed as if meditating defl:ru6tion on himfelf and every
one elfe.
I afked for arms, but they laughed at me, and faid I was well acquainted with the people among whom 1 was going, and therefore did not want them ; four cutlafles, however, were thrown into the boat, after we were veered aftern.
The officers and men being in the boatj they only waited for me, of which the mafter at arms informed Ghriftian; who then faid — " Come, captain Bligh, your officers and *' men are now in the boat, and you muft go with them ; if; " you attempt to make the leaft refiftance you will inftantly *' be put to death :" and, without further ceremony, with a tribe of armed ruffians about me, I was forced over the fide, where they untied my hands. Being in the boat, we were veered aftern by a rope. A few pieces of po^k ^y■ere thrown, to us, and fome clothes, alfo the cutlaffes I have already mentioned ; and it was then that the armourer and car- penters called out to me to remember that they had no hand in the tranfaftion. After having undergone a great deal of ridicule, and been kept fome time to make fport for thefe unfeeling wretches, we were at length call adrift iti the open ocean.
1 had with me in the boat the following perfons :
Names, Stations.
John Fryer _ - _ - Mafter. Thomas Ledward - - - A<fViiig Surgeon. David Nelson - - - Botaniil,
WiLllAM
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c.
159
Names.
William Peckover William Cole William Purcell - William Elphinston Thomas Hayward - John Hallet - John Norton Peter Linkletter Lawrence Lebogue John Smith - - - Thomas Hall - - George Simpson Robert Tinkler - Robert Lamb - - Mr. Samuel _ _ -
■]
:-\
Stations.
Gunner. Boatfwain. Carpenter, Mafter's Mate.
Midfliipmen.
Quarter Mafters.
Sailmaker.
Cooks.
Quarter Mafter's Mate.
A boy.
Butcher.
Clerk.
There remained on board the Bounty, Fletcher Christian - - Mafter's Mate. Peter Haywood - - -•> Edward Young - - - George Stewart - - Charles Churchill John Mills - _ _ .
Midftaipmen.
- Mafter at Arms.
- Gunner's Mate.
James Morrison Thomas Burkitt - Matthew Quintal John Sumner - - _ John Millward William M'KoY Henry Hillbrant - - Michael Byrne - - -
- Boatfwain's Mate.
- Able Seaman.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
WlLLIAJVl.
i6o
A VOYAGE TO
Names.
William Musprat ■ Alexander Smith - John Williams Thomas Ellison - Isaac Martin Richard Skinner Matthew Thompson William Brown Joseph Coleman Charles Norman Thomas M'Intosh ■
Statlont.
- Dittp.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
- Ditto.
- Ditto,
- Gardiner,
- Armourer.
- Carpenter's Mate.
- Carpenter's Crew.
Jn all 25 hands, and the moft able men of the fliip's company.
Having little or no wind, we rowed pretty faft towards Tofoa, which bore N E about 10 leagues from us. While the fliip was in fight flie fteered to the W N W, but 1 confidered this only as a feint ; for when we were fent away — " Huzza for Otaheite," was frequently heard among the mutineers.
Chriftian, the chief of the mutineers, is of a refpecStable family in the north of England. This was the third voyage he had made with me ; and, as I found it neceflary to keep my fhip's company at three watches, I had given him an order to take charge of the third, his abilities being tho- roughly equal to the tafk ; and by this means the matter and gunner were not at watch and watch.
Haywood is alfo of a refpedable family in the north of England, and a young man of abilities, as well as Chriftian. Thefe two had been objects of my particular regard and at- tention, and I had taken great pains to inftrudt them, hav- ing
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. i6i
iiig entertained hopes, that, as profefllonal men, they would have become a credit to their country.
Yonng was well recommended, and had the look of an able flout leaman : he, however, fell fliort of what his ap- pearance promifed.
Stewart was a young man of creditable parents, in the Orkneys; at which place, on the return of the Refolution from the South Seas, in 1780, we received fo many civilities, that, on that account only, I fhould gladly have taken him with me : but, independent of this recommendation, he was a feaman, and had always borne a good charadter.
Notwithftanding the roughnefs with which I was treated, the remembrance of pail: kindnelTes produced fome figns of remorfe in Chriftian. When they were forcing me out of the fliip, I afked him, if this treatment was a proper return for the many inftances he had received of my friendlliip ? he appeared difturbed at my queftion, and anfwered with much emotion, " That, — captain Bligh, —
*' that is the thing ; 1 am in hell — I am in hell."
As foon as I had time to refle6t, I felt an inward fatisfac- tion, which prevented any depreflion of my fpirits : con- fcious of my integrity, and anxious folicitude for the good of the fervice in which I had been engaged, I found my mind wonderfully fupported, and I began to conceive hopes, notwithftanding fo heavy a calamity, that I fhould one day be able to account to my King and country for the misfor- tune.— A few hours before, my fituation had been pecu- liarly flattering, I had a fhip in the moft perfedt order, and well ftored with every neceflary both for fervice and health : by early attention to thole particulars I had, as much as lay in my power, provided againft any accident,
Y in
i6i AVOYAGETO
i?89. in cafe I could not get through Endeavour Straits, as well ^''^ ' '^ as againft what might befal me in them; add to this, the plants had been fuccefsfully preferved in the moft fiourifh- ing ftate : fo that, upon the whole, the voyage was two thirds completed, and the remaining part, to all appearance, in a very promiling way ; every perfon on board being in perfedl health, to eftablilh which was ever amongft the principal obje6ls of my attention.
It will very naturally be afked, what could be the reafon for fuch a revolt ? in anfwer to which I can only conjec- ture, that the mutineers had flattered themfelves with the hopes of a more happy life among the Otaheiteans, than they could poflibly enjoy in England ; and this, joined to fome female connections, moft probably occafioned the whole tranfaftion.
The women at Otaheite are handfome, mild and cheer- ful in their manners and converfation, polTefled of great feniibility, and have fufficient delicacy to make them admired and beloved. The chiefs were fo much attached to our people, that they rather encouraged their ftay among them than otherwife, and even made them promifes of large pofleffions. Under thefe, and many other attendant circumftances, equally delirable, it is now perhaps not fo much to be wondered at, though fcarcely poffible to have been forefeen, that a fet of failors, moft of them void of connections, ftiould be led away; efpecially when, in addi- tion to fuch powerful inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix themfelves in the midft of plenty, on one of the fineft illands in the world, where they need not labour, and where the allurements of diffipation are beyond any thing that can be conceived. The utmoft, however, that
any
#
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 163
any commander could have fnppofed to have happened is, that fome of the people would have been tempted to defert. But if it fliould be aflerted, that a commander is to guard againft an a6l of mutiny and piracy in his own fliip, more than by the common rules of feyvice, it is as much as to fay that he mull lleep locked up, and when awake, be gird- ed with piftols.
Defertions have happened, more or lefs, from moft of the fliips that have been at the Society Iflands; but it has always been in the commanders power to make the chiefs return their people : the knowledge, therefore, that it was imfafe to deferf, perhaps, firfl led mine to confider with what eafe fo fmall a fliip might be furprized, and that fo favourable an opportunity would never offer to them again.
The fecrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. Thirteen of the party, who were with me, had always lived forward among the feamen ; yet neither they, nor the mefs- mates of Chriftian, Stewart, Haywood, and Young, had ever obferved any circumftance that made them in the leaft fuf- pedt what was going on. To fuch a clofe-planned a6t of villainy, my mind being entirely free from any fuipicion, it is not wonderful that I fell a facrifice. Perhaps, if there had been marines on board, a centinel at my cabin-door might have prevented it ; for I flept with the door always open, that the officer of the watch might have accefs to me on all occafions, the poffibility of fuch a confpiracy being ever the fartheft from my thoughts. Had their mutiny been occafioned by any grievances, either real or imagi- nary, I muft have difcovered fymptoms of their difcontent, which wonld have put me on my guard: but the cafe was
Y 2 far
164 AVOYAGETO
1789. far other^ife, Chriftian, in particular, I was on the moft ^^'iHit friendly terms with : that very day he was engaged to have dined with me; and the preceding night, he excnfed him- felf from flipping with me, on pretence of being unwell; for which I felt concerned, having no fufpicions of his in- tegrity and honour.
C HA P.
^97l£7LJf(>//-J.
THE SOUTH SEAS, ^c.
i65
CHAP. XIV.
Proceed in the Launch to the IJland Tofoa. — Difficulty in ob- taining Supplies there. — Treacherous Attack of the Na- tives.— EJcape to Sea^ and bear a-zvay for Kezv Holland.
MY firll determination was to feek. a fupply of bread- fruit and water at Tofoa, and afterwards to fail for Tongataboo, and there rilk a folicitation to Poulaho, the king, to equip our boat, and grant us a fupply of water and provifions, fo as to enable us to reach the Eaft Indies.
The quantity of provifions 1 found in the boat, was 1501b. of bread, 16 pieces of pork, each piece weighing 1 lb, 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of wine, with 28 gallons of water, and four empty barrecoes.
Fortunately it was calm all the afternoon, till about four o'clock, when we were fo far to windward, that, with a mode- rate eafterly breeze which fprung up, we were able to fail. It was neverthelefs dark when we got to Tofoa, where I expected to land ; but the fhore proved to be fo lleep and rocky, that we were obliged to give up all thoughts of it, and keep the boaf under the lee of the illand with two oars; for there was no anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceecUng for the night, I ferved to every perfon half a pint of grog, and each took to his reft as well as our un- happy fituation would allow.
In the morning, at dawn of day, we rowed along fliore in fearch of a landing-place, and about ten o'clock Vvc difcovered
a cove
1789.
Ap R I i
Wciinefday
2C).
|
- 1 -- r.. _l__f— -f { [ --f-- "f- -4^ -.-,_.-.- -.- - . ^- -. -.- . --. _^ - -^-:-- .^ _-,-^ |
|
|
\^.:- ' .--.:/..-- :^ r-:: -' ^ — '- - ^- ^^^^ . JIl.^^I^^.: . __ =1 i -^ - ~^ ^ =r^--^ ^-"=^-^ ~ ': ""^-^ |
J |
I I
/ \
G N /
, ^//</.^^//Z'Ay/..^//^vv// rri: /,//,■ J '/i>// ////u\U ^^r/ ,r... L// .
THE SOUTH SEAS, (<ic.
165
CHAP. XIV.
Proceed in the Launch to the IJland T'ofoa. — Difficulty ift ob- taining Supplies there. — Treacherous Attack of the Na- tives.— EJcape to Sea, and bear away for Kezv Holland.
MY firft determination was to feek a fupply of bread- fruit and water at Tofoa, and afterwards to fail for Tongataboo, and tbere rilk a folicitation to Poulaho, the king, to equip our boat, and grant us a fupply of water and l^rovilions, fo as to enable us to reach the Eaft Indies.
The quantity of provifions I found in the boat, was 1501b. of bread, 16 pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 lb. 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles of wine, with 28 gallons of water, and four empty barrecoes.
Fortunately it was calm all the afternoon, till about four o'clock, when we were fo far to windward, that, with a mode- rate eafterly breeze which fprung up, we were able to fail. It was neverthelefs dark when we got to Tofoa, where I expected to land ; but the fhore proved to be fo fteep and rocky, that we were obliged to give up all thoughts of it, and keep the boai!* under the lee of the ifland with two oars; for there was no anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night, I fervcd to every perfon half a pint of grog, and each took to his reft as well as our un- happy fituation would allow.
Ill the morning, at dawn of day, we rowed along fhore in fearch of a landing-place, and about ten o'clock Vv'c difcovered
a cove
Ap R I i -
WedneAhy 29.
i66 A V O Y A G E T O
a cove with a ftony beach, at the N W part of the ifland, where I dropt the grapnel within 20 yards of the rocks. A great furf ran on the fhore ; but, as I was unwilling to diminifli our flock of provifions, I landed Mr. Samuel, and fome others, who climbed the cliffs, and got into the coimtry to fearch for fupplies. The reft of us remained at the cove, not difcovering any other way into the covintry, than that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was great confolation to me to find, that the fpirits of my people did not fink, notwithflanding our miferable and almofl: hopelefs fituation. Towards noon, Mr. Samuel returned, with a few quarts of water, which he had found in holes ; but he had met with no fpring, or any profpe6t of a fufficient fupply in that particular, and had feen only the figns of inhabitants. As it was uncertain what might be our future neceHities, I only ifTued a morfel of bread, and a glafs of wine, to each perfon for dinner.
I obferved the latitude of this cove to be 19" 41'' S. This is the N W part of Tofoa, the north- wefternmoft of the Friendly Iflands.
The weather was fair, but the wind blew fo flrong from the E S E that we could not venture to fea. Our detention made it abfolutely necefTary to endeavour to obtain fome- thing towards our fupport; fori determined, if poflible, to keep our firfl flock entire. We therefore weighed, and rowed along fhore, to fee if any thing could be got; and at laft difcovered fome cocoa-nut trees; but they were on the top of high precipices, and the furf made it dangerous land- ing : both one and the other we, however, got the better of. Some of the people, with much difficulty, climbed the cliffs, and got about 20 cocoa-nuts, and others flung them to ropes, by which we hauled them through the furf into the § boat.
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 367
boat. This was all that could be done here; and, as I found 1789. no place fo fafe as the one we had left, to fpend the night at, ,^^1,^ I returned to the cove, and, having ferved a cocoa-nut to each perfon, we went to reft again in the boat.
At daylight, we attempted to put to fea; but the wind Thurfdayjo. and weather proved fo bad, that I was glad to return to our former ll:ation ; where, after iffuing a morfel of bread and a fpooniul of rum to each perfon, we landed, and I went oflf with Mr. Nelfon, Mr. Samuel, and fome others, into the country, having hauled ourfelves up the precipice by long vines, which were fixed there by the natives for that purpofe ; this being the only way into the country.
We found a fewdeferted huts, and a fmall plantain walk, but little taken care of; from which we could only colled: three fmall bunches of plantains. After pafling this place, we came to a deep gully that led towards a mountain, near a volcano ; and, as I conceived that in the rainy fea- ibn very great torrents of water muft pafs through it, we hoped to find fufiicient for our ufe, remaining in fome holes of the rocks ; but, after all our fearch, the whole that we colle<Sted was only nine gallons. We advanced within two miles of the foot of the higheft mountain in the iiland, on which is the volcano that is almoft conftantly burning. The country near it is covered with lava, and has a moft dreary appearance. As vv-e had not been fortunate in our dif- toveries, and faw nothing to alleviate our dillrefles, except the plantains and water abovementioned, we returned to the boat, exceedingly fatig-ued and faint. When I came to the precipice whence we were to defcend into the cove, I was feizcd with fuch a dizzinefs in my head, that I thought it fcarce polTible to eft'ecl: it : however, by the ailiftance of Nelfon and others, they at laft got me down, in a weak
condition.
i68 A V O Y A G E T O
condition. Every perfon being returned by noon, I gave about an ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glafs of wine. I again obferved the latitude of this place 19° 41' fouth. The people who remained by the boat I had diretled to look for fifh, or w^hat they could pick up about the rocks ; biit nothing eatable could be found : fo that, upon the whole, we confidered ourfelves on as mi- ferable a fpot of land as could well be imagined.
I could not fay poljtively, from the former knowledge I had of this ifland, whether it was inhabited or not ; but I knew it was confidered inferior to the other iflands, and 1 was not certain but that the Indians only reforted to it at particular times. I was very anxious to afcertain this point ; foi', in cafe there had been only a few people here, and thofe could have furnifhed us with but very mode- rate fupplies, the remaining in this fpot to have made preparations for our voyage, would have been preferable to the rifk of going amongfc multitudes, where perhaps we might lofe every thing. A party, therefore, fuffi- ciently ftrong, I determined fliould go another route, as foon as the fun became lower ; and they cheerfully under- took it.
About two o'clock in the afternoon the party fet out; but, after fuffering much fatigue, they returned in the evening, without any kind of fuccefs.
At the head of the cove, about 150 yards from the water- fide, there was a cave ; the diftance acrofs the ftony beach was about 100 yards, and from the country into the cove there was no other way than that wliich I have already defcribed. The fituation fecured us from the danger of being furprifed, and 1 determined to remain on fliore for the night, with a part of my people, that the others might
have
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 169
have more room to reft in the boat, with the mailer; whom 1739.
I direiSlecl to lie at a grapnel, and be watchful, in cafe we .•'^''^' '^
fliould be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each perfon to
be boiled ; and, having fupped on this fcanty allowance,
with a quarter of a pint of grog, and fixed the watches for
the night, thofe whofe turn it was, laid down to fleep in the
cave, before which we kept up a good lire ; yet notwithlland-
ing we were much troubled with flies and muf(]uitoes. m a v.
Friday, May the ift. At dawn of day, the party fet out ^"'^^>' '• again in a different route, to fee what they could find ; in the courfe of which, they fuffered greatly for want of w^ater : they, however, met with t^^•o men, a \\oman, and a child : the men came with them to the cove, and brought two cocoa-nut fliells of w^ater. I endeavoured to make friends of thefe people, and fent them away for bread-fruit, plantains, and water. Soon after, other natives came to us ; and by noon there were thirty about us, from whom we ob- tained a fmall fupply ; but I could only afford one ounce of pork, and a quarter of a bread-fruit, to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water ; for I was fixed in my refolutioa not to ufe any of the bread or water in the boat.
No particular chief was yet among the natives : they were, notwithftanding, tradtable, and behaved honeftly, exchanging the provifions they brought for a few buttons and beads. The party wlio had been out, informed me of their having, feen feveral neat plantations ; fo that it re- mained no longer a doubt of there being fettled inhabitants on the ifland ; for which reafon I determined to get what I could, and to fail the firft moment that the wind and weather would allow us to put to fca.
I was much puzzled in what manner to account to the natives for the lofs of my fhip : I knew they had too much
% fenfc
I70 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. fenfe to be amufed with a ftory tliat the fliip was to join me, „— v» — 9 when fhe was not in fight from the hills. I was at firft doubtful whether I fhould tell the real fa6t, or fay that the fhip had overfet and funk, and that we only were faved : the Ir.tter appeared to be the moft proper and advantageous for us, a:nd I accordingly inftru6ted my people, that we might all agree in one ftory. As I expe6ted, enquiries were made about the fliip, and they feemed readily fatisfied with our account ; but there did not appear the leaft'fymptom of joy or forrow in their faces, although I fancied I difcovered fome marks of furprife. Some of the natives were coming and going the whole afternoon, and we got enough of. ' bread-fruit, plantains, and cocoa-nuts for another day ; but of water they only brought us about five pints. A canoe alfo came in with four men, and brought a few cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, which I bought as I had done the reft. Nails were much enquired after, but I would not fuffer any to be fliewn, as they were wanted for the ufe of the boat.
Towards evening, I had the fatisfa6lion to find our ftock of provifions fomewhat increafed ; but the natives did not appear to have much to fpare. What they brought was in fuch fmall quantities, that I had no reafon to hope we fhould be able to procure from them fufficient to ftock us for our voyage. At fun-fet, all the natives left us in quiet pofTeflion of the cove. I thought this a good fign,. and made no doubt that they would come again the next day with a better fupply of food and water, with w^hich I hoped to fail without farther delay : for if, in attempting to get to Tongataboo, we fhould be driven to leeward of the iflands, there would be a larger quantity of provifions to ■ fnpport us againft fuch a misfortune.
.9 At
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 171
At night, I ferved a quarter of a bread-fruit and a cocoa- 1789- nut to each perfon for fupper ; and, a good fire being made, ,_ -'^-^'_f all but the watch went to llecp.
At day-break, the next morning, I was pleafed to find Satmday :. every one's fpirits a little revived, and that they no longer regarded me with thofe anxious looks, which had conftantly been diredlcd towards me fince we loll fight of the fliip : every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerful- nefs, and they all feemed determined to do their beft.
As there was no certainty of our being fupplied with water by the natives, I fent a party among the gullies in the mountains, with empty fliells, to fee what could be found. In their abfence the natives came about us, as I expedted, and in greater numbers ; two canoes alfo came in from round the north fide of the ifiand. In one of them was an elderly chief, called Macca-ackavow. Soon after, fome of our foraging party returned, and with them catne a good-looking chief, called Egijeefow, or perhaps more properly Eefow, Egij or Eghee, figftifying a chief. To each of thefe men I made a prefent of an old fliirt and a knife, and I foon found they either had feen me, or had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with captain Cook, who they enquired after, and alfo captain Clerk. They were very inquifitive to know in what man- ner I had lofl: my fhip. During this converfation, a young man, named Nageete, appeared, whom I remembered to have feen at Annamooka: he expreflTed much pleafiire at our meeting. I enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who, they faid, were at Tongataboo ; and Eefow agreed to accom- pany me thither, if I would wait till the weather moderated. • The readinefs and affability of this man gave me much fa- tisfadlion.
Z 2 This,
lya - A V O Y A G E T O
1789. This, however, was but of fliort duration, for the natiires
^ -^-^ I "began to increafe in number, and I obferved fome fymp- toms of a defign againft us. Soon after they attempted to haul the boat on fliore, on which I brandiflied my cutlafs in a threatening manner, and fpoke to Eefow to defire them to defift ; which they did, and every thing became quiet again. My people, who had been in the mountains, now returned with about three gallons of water. I kept buying up the little bread-fruit that was brought to us, and like- wife fome fpears to arm my men with, having only four cutlalTes, two of which were in the boat. As we had no means of improving our lituation, I told our people I would wait till fvm-fet, by which time, perhaps, fomething might happen in our favour : for if we attempted to go at prefent, we muft fight our way through, which we could do more advantageoully at night ; and that in the mean time we would endeavour to get off to the boat what we had bought. The beach was lined with the natives, and we heard nor- thing but the knocking of flones together, which they had in each hand. I knew very well this was the fign of an attack. At noon, I ferved a cocoa-nvit and a bread-fruit to each perfon for dinner, and gave fome to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate and friendly. They frequently importuned me to fit down, but I as conftantly refufed : for it occurred both to Nelfon and myfelf, that they intended to feize hold of me, if I gave them fuch an opportunity. Keeping, therefore, conftantly on our o-uard, we were fufFered to eat our uncomfortable meal in fome quietnefs.
After dinner, we began by Tittle and little to get our things into the boat, which was a troublefome buiinefs, on account of the furf. I carefully Vvatched the motions
of
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 173
of the natives,- who continued to increale in number; and 1789. found that, in Head of their intention being to leave us, lires J _,_ ' , were made, and places fixed on for their (lay during the night. Confukations were alfo held among them, and every thing alTurctl me we fliould be attacked. I fcnt orders to the nialler, that when he lliw us coming down, he llioidd keep the boat clofe to the fliore, that we might the more readily embark.
I had my journal on fliore with me, writing the occur- rences in the cave, and in fending it down to the boat, it was nearly fnatched away, but for the timely affiftance of the gunner.
The fun was near fetting, when I gave the word, on which every perfon, who was on fliore with me, boldly took up his proportion of things, and carried them to the boat. The chiefs aflced me if I would not flay with them all night, I faid, " No, I never fleepout of my boat ; but in " the morning we will again trade with you, and I fliall " remain till the weather is moderate, that we may go, " as we have agreed, to fee Poulaho, at Tongataboo." Macca-ackavow then got up, and faid, " You will not lleep " on fliore ? then Mattie," (which direcflly fignifies we will kill you) and he left me. The onfet was now prepar- ing; every one, as I have defcribed before, kept knocking llones together, and Eefow quitted me. Ail but two or three things were in the boat, when I took Nageete by the hand, and we walked down the beach, every one in a filent kind of horror.
While I was feeing the people embark, Nageete wanted me to ftay to fpeak to Eefow; but I found he was en- couraging them to the attack, and it was my determination, i{ they had then began', to have killed him for his treache- rous
174 A V O Y A G E T O
M A
rous behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me till the other people were in the boat. Nageete, finding I would not flay, loofed himfelf from my hold and went ofF, and we all got into the boat except one man, who, while I was getting on board, quitted it, and ran up-the beach to caft the Hern fail: off, notwithftanding the mafter and others called to him to return, while they were hauling me out of the water.
I was no fooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men ; the unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was knocked down, and the ftones flew like a fliower of fliot. Many Indians got hold of the Hern rope, and were near hauling the boat on fhore ; which they would certainly have efte6led, if I had not had a knife in my pocket, with which I cut the rope. We then hauled oif to the grapnel, every one being more or lefs hurt. At this time, I faw five of the natives about the poor man they had killed, and two of them were beating him about the head with ftones in their hands.
We had no time to refledt, for to my furprife, they filled their oanoes with ftones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the attack, which they did fo efFe6lually as nearly to difable us all. Our grapnel was foul, but Providence here affifted us; the fluke broke, and we got to our oars, and pulled to fea. They, however, could paddle round us, fo that we were obliged to fuftain the attack without being able to return it, except with fuch ftones as lodged in the boat, and in this I found we were very inferior to them. We could not dole, becaufe our boat was lumbered and heavy, of which they well knew how to take advantage : I therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard fome clothes, which, as I expe^fted, they flopped to pick
up;
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 175
up; and, as it was by this time almoft dark, they gave over '789- the attack, and returned towards the fliore, leaving us to re- ■ / ^'^ flecft on our unhappy fituation.
The poor man killed by the natives was John Norton : this was his fecond voyage with me as a quarter-mafter, and his worthy chara6ler made me lament his lofs very much. He has left an aged parent, I am told, whom he fupported.
1 once before fuftained an attack of a fimilar nature, with a fmaller number of Europeans, againft a multitude of In- dians : it was after the death of Captain Cook, on the Moral at Owhyhee, where I was left by Lieutenant King. Yet, notwithftanding this experience, I had not an idea that the power of a man's arm could throw ftones, from two to eight pounds weight, with fuch force and exadlnefs as thefe people did. Here unhappily we were without fire-arms, which the Indians knew; and it was a fortunate circum- Itance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave ; for in that cafe our deftrudlion muft have been inevitable, and we fhould have had nothing left for it but to fell our lives as dearly as we could ; in which I found every one cheer- fully difpofed to concur. This appearance of refolution deterred them, fuppofing that they could efFe(5t their pur- pofe without rilk after we were in the boat.
Taking this as a fample of the difpofition of the natives, there was but little reafon to expecfl much benefit by perfe- vering in the intention of viliting Poulaho; for I confidered their good behaviour formerly to have proceeded from a dread of our fire-arms, and which, therefore, was likely to ceafe, as they knew we were nowdeftitute of them : and, even fuppofing our lives not in danger, the boat and every thing >Te had, would moft probably be taken from us, and thereby
all
176 A V O Y A G E T O
M
all hopes precluded of ever being able to return to our na- tive country.
We fet our fails, and fleered along lliore by the weft fide of the ifland Tofoa ; the wind blowing freih from the eaftward. My mind was employed in conlidering what Mas bsft to be done, when I was folicited by all hands to take them towards home : and, when I told them that no hopes of relief for ns remained (except what might be found at New Holland) till I came to Timor, a diftance of full 1200 leagues, where there was a Dutch fettlement, but in what part of the itland I knew not ; they all agreed to live on one ounce of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, per day. Therefore, after examining our ftock of provifions, and recommending to them, in the moll folemn manner, not to depart from their promife, we bore away acrofs a fea, where the navigation is but little known, in a fmall boat, twenty-three feet long from ftem to ftern, deep laden ;vvith eighteen men. I was happy, however, to fee that every one feemed better fatisfied with our fituation than rayfelf.
Our ftock of provifions confifted of about one hundred and fifty pounds of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum. The difference between this and the quantity we had on leaving the fliip, was principally owing to our lofs in the buftle and confufion of the attack. A few cocoa-nuts were in the boat, and fome bread-fruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEA S> &c. 177
CHAP. XV.
Pajfage to'ucards Nezv Holland. — Ijlands difcovcred in our Route.— Our great Dijirejfes. — See the Reefs of Nezv Hoi- landf and find a Paffage through them.
IT was about eight o'clock at night when we bore away yl^^'x. under a reefed lug fore-fail : and, having divided the ^- — - — people into watches, and got the boat in a little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous prefervation, and, fully confident of his gracious fupport, I found my mind more at eafe than it had been for fome time paft.
At day-break, the gale increafed ; the fun rofe very fiery Sunday t. and red, a fure indication of a fevere gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent florm, and the fea ran very high, fo that between the feas the fail was becalmed, and when on the top of the fea it was too much to have fet : but we could not venture to take in the fail, for we were in very imminent danger and diftrefs, the fea curling over the flern of tlie boat, which obliged us to bale with all our might. A fituation more diflreHing has, perhaps, feldom been ex- perienced.
Our bread was in bags, and in danger of being fpoiled by the wet : to be flarved to death was inevitable, if this could not be prevented : I therefore began to examine what clothes there were in the boat, and what other things could be fpared ; and, having determined that only two fuits fliould be kept for each perfon, the refl was thrown
A a overboard,
178 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. overboard, with fome rope and fnare fails, which ligh- , ^ ^/' , tened the boat conliderably, and we had more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good cheft in the boat, in which we fecvired the bread the firft favour- able moment. His tool cheft alfo was cleared, and the tools ftowed. in the bottom of the boat, fo that this became a fecond convenience.
I ferved a tea-fpoonful of rum to each perfon, (for we were very wet and cold) with a quarter of a bread-fruit,, which was fcarce eatable, for dinner : our engagement was now ftri6tly to be carried into execution, and I tvas fully determined to make our proviiions laft eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever fo fmall.
At noon, I confidered our courfe and diftance from Tofoa to be W N W i W 86 miles, latitude 19° 27' S. I diredled the courfe to the W N W, that we might get a, fight of the iilands called Feejee, if they laid in the direc- tion the natives had pointed out to me.
The weather continued very fevere, the wind veering from N E to E S E. The fea ran higher than in the fore- noon, and the fatigue of baling, to keep the boat from filling, was exceedingly great. We could do nothing more than keep before the fea ; in the courfe of which the boat performed fo well, that I no longer dreaded any danger in that refpe<f1:. But among the hardfhips we were to un- dergo, that of being conftantly wet was not the leaft : the Monday 4. night was very cold, and at day-light our limbs were fo be- numbed, that we could fcarce find the ufe of them. At this time I ferved a tea-fpoonful of rum to each perfon^ from which we all found great benefit.
As I have mentioned before, I determined to keep to the W N W, till I got more to the northward ; for I not
only
0
o
789.
A Y.
fday 5.
178 AVOYAGETO
1789. overboard, with fome rope and fpare fails, which ligh- , _''J' . tened the boat confiderably, and we had more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good cheft in the boat, in which we fecured the bread the firft favour- able moment. His tool cheft alfo was cleared, and the tools ftowed. in the bottom of the boat, fo that this became a fecond convenience.
I ferved a tea-fpoonful of rum to each perfon, (for we were very wet and cold) with a quarter of a bread-fruity which was fcarce eatable, for dinner: our engagement was now ftri6lly to be carried into execution, and I Was fully determined to make our provilions laft eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever fo fmall.
At noon, I confidered our courfe and diftance from Tofoa to be W N W J W 86 miles, latitude 19° 27' S. I direiled the courfe to the W N W, that we might get a. iight of the iflands called Feejee, if they laid in the direc- tion the natives had pointed out to me.
The weather continued very fevere, the wind veering from N E to E S E. The fea ran higher than in the fore- noon, and the fatigue of baling, to keep the boat from filling, was exceedingly great. We could do nothing more than keep before the fea ; in the courfe of which the boat performed fo well, that I no longer dreaded any danger in that refpeift. But among the hardfhips we were to un- dergo, that of being conftantly wet was not the leaft : the Monday 4. uiglit was vcry cold, and at day-light our limbs were fo be- numbed, that we could fcarce find the ufe of them. At this time I ferved a tea-fpoonful of rum to each perfon,, from which we all found great benefit.
As I have mentioned before, I determined to keep to the W N W, till I got more to the northward ; for I not
only
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THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 179
only expecfled to have better weather, but to fee the Feejcc 1789. Iflands, as I have often underftood, from the natives of An- . * ^_, namooka, that they He in that dire<5lion. Captain Cook likewife confidercd them to be N W by W from Tongata- boo. Juft before noon, we difcovered a fmall flat illand, of a moderate height, bearing W S W, 4 or 5 leagues. I ob- ferved our latitude to be 18* 58' S ; our longitude was, by account, 3° 4' \V from the ifland Tofoa, having made a N 72° W courfe, diftance 95 miles, fince yefterday noon. I divided five fmall cocoa-nuts for our dinner, and every one was fatisfied.
A little after noon, other iflands appeared, and at a quar- ter paft three o'clock we could count eight, bearing from S round by the weft to N W by N ; thofe to the fouth, which were the neareft, being four leagues diftant from us.
I kept my courfe to the N \V by W, between the iflands, the gale having confiderably abated. At fix o'clock, we difcovered three other fmall iflands to the N W, the wefternmoft of them bore N W i W 7 leagvies. I fleered to the fouthward of thefe iflands, a VV N W courfe for the night, under a reefed fail.
Served a few broken pieces of bread-fruit for fupper, and performed prayers.
The night turned out fair, and, having had tolerable reft, every one feemed conflderably better in the morning, Tuefday 5. and contentedly breakfaftcd on a few pieces of yams that were found in the boat. After brcakfaft we examined our bread, a great deal of which was damaged and rotten ; this, neverthclefs, we were glad to keep for ufe.
I had hitherto been fcarcely able to keep any account of our run ; but we now equipped ourfelves a little bet- ter, by getting a log-line marked, and, having praiftifed at
A a 2 countin?
i8o A V O Y A G E T O-
M,
comiting fecondsj fevcral could do it with fome degree of , exa£lnefs.
The iflands we had palTed, He between the latitude of 19' 5' S and 18° 19' S, and, according to my reckoning, from 3° 17' to 3° 46' W longitude from the illand Tofoa : the largeft may be about fix leagues in circuit; but it is im- poifible for me to be very corre6t. To fliow where they are to be found again is the moft my fituation enabled n^e to do. The fketch I have made, will give a comparative view of their extent. I believe all the larger iflands are inha- bited, as they appeared very fertile.
At noon I obferved, in latitude 18" 10' S, and confidered my courfe and diftance from yefterday noon, N W by W i W, 94 miles ; longitude, by account, from Tofoa 4' 29' W.
For dinner, I ferved fome of the damaged bread, and a. quarter of a pint of water.
About fix o'clock in the afternoon, we difcovered twO' iflands, one bearing W by S 6 leagues, and the other N W by N 8 leagues ; I kept to windward of the northernmofi:,, and pafling it by 10 o'clock, I refumed our courfe to the. N W and VV N W for the night. Wednefday Wcdncfday the 6th. The weather was fair and the wind ^' moderate ail day from the E N E. At day-light, a number of other iflands w ere in fight from S S E to the W, and ro\md to N E by E ; between thofe in the N W I deter- mined to pafs. At noon a fmall fandy ifland or key, two miles diftant from me, bore from E to S i W. I had pafled: ten iflands, the largeft of which I judged to be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger lands appeared in the S W and N N W, between which I direded my courfe. Lati- tude obferved 17" 17' S ; courfe fince yefterday noon N 50° W ; . diftance 84 miles ; longitude made, by account, 5° 37' W.
Our
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. xBi
Our allowance for the day was a quarter of a pint of 1739. Gocoa-nut milk, and the meat, which did not exceed two , J^^J^'^^ ounces to each perfon : it was received very contentedly, but we fuffcrcd great drought. I darft not venture to land, as we had no arms, and were lefs capable of defending ourfclves than we were at Tofoa.
To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered diffi- cult, from being conflantly wet with the fea breaking over us i but, as we advanced towards the land, the fea became fmoother, and I was enabled to form a fketch of the iflands', Avhich will ferve to give a general knowledge of their ex- tent and pofition. Thofe we were near, appeared fruitful and hilly, feme very mountainous, and all of a good height.
To our great joy we hooked a fifli, but we were miferably difappointed by its being loft in trying to get it into the boat.
We continued fteering to the N W, between the iflands, which, by the evening, appeared of confiderable extent, woody and mountainous. At fun-fet, the fouthernmoft bore from S to S VV by W. and the northernmoft from N by W s W to N E f E. At fix o'clock we were nearly mid-way between them, and about 6 leagues diftant from each fliore, when we fell in with a coral bank, on which we had only four feet water, without the leaft break on it, . or ruflie of the fea to give tis warning. I could fee that it extended about a mile on each fide of us ; but, as it is pro- bable that it may extend much farther, I have laid it down fo in my fketch.
I directed the courfe W by N for the night, and ferved to each perfon an ounce of the damaged bread, and a quar- ter of a pint of water, ibr fupper.
As
iSa A V O Y A G E T O
As our lodgings were very miferable, and confined for want of room, I endeavoured to remedy the latter defea, by putting ourfelves at Avatch and watch ; fo that one half al- ways fat up while the other lay down on the boat's bottom, or upon a cheft, with nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were dreadfully cramped, for we could not ftretch them out; and the nights were fo cold, and we fo conftantly wet, that, after a few hours fleep, we could fcarce move. Thurfday;. At dawn of day, we again difcovered land from W S W to W N W, and another ifland N N W, the latter a high round lump of but Uttle extent : the fouthern land that we had paffed in the night was ftill in fight. Being very wet and cold, I ferved a fjDoonful of rum and a morfel of bread for breakfaft.
The land in the wefi: was diftinguillied by fome extraor- dinary high rocks, which, as we approached them, aflumed a variety of forms. The country appeared to be agreeably interfperfed with high and low land, and in fome places co- vered with wood. Off the N E part lay fome fmall rocky iflands, between which and an ifland 4 leagues to the N E, I diredled my courfe ; but a lee current very unexpedtedly fet :us very near to the rocky ifles, and we could only get clear ■of it by rowing, palling clofe to the reef that furrounded them. At this time we obferved two large failing canoes coming fwiftly after us along Ihore, and, being apprehenfive of their intentions, we rowed with fome anxiety, fully fen- fible of our weak and defencelefs ftate. At noon it was calm .and the weather cloudy; my latitude is therefore doubtful to 3 or4 miles. Our courfe fince yefterday noon N W by W, dif- tance 79 miles ; latitude by accoimt, i6°29'S, and longitude by account, trom Tofoa, 6° 46' W. Being conllantly wet, it w^s with the utmofl difficulty I could open .a book to write,
and
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 183
and I am fenfible that what I have done can only ferve to 17S9. point out where thefe lands are to be found again, and give ,JVJ1;^ an idea of their extent.
All the afternoon, we had light winds at N N E : the wea- ther was very rainy, attended with thunder and lightning. Only one of the canoes gained ujion us, which by three o'clock in the afternoon was not more than two miles off, when flic gave over chafe.
If I may judge from the fail of thefc vefTels, they are of a fi- milar conftrudlion v.ith thofe at the Friendly Hlands, which, with the nearnefs of their fituation, gives reafon to believe that they are the fame kind of people. Whether thefe canoes had any hoflile intention againft us muft remain a doubt : perhaps we might have benefited by an inter- courfe with them; but in our defencelefs fituation, to have made the experiment would have been rifking too much.
1 imagine thefe to be the iflands called Feejee, as their ex- tent, dire6lion, and diftance from the Friendly Iflands, an- fwers to the defcription given of them by thofe Illanders. Heavy rain came on at four o'clock, when every perfon did their ntmoft to catch feme water, and we increafed our ftock to 34 gallons, befides quenching our thirft for the firft time fmce we had been at fea; but an attendant confe- qiience made us pafs the night very miferably, for being extremely wet, and having no dry things to fhift or cover lis, we experienced cold and fliiverings fcarce to be con- ceived. Mofl fortunately for us, the forenoon turned out Friday 8. fair, and we ftripped and dried our clothes. The allowance I iffued to-day, was an ounce and a half of pork, a tea- fpoonful of rum, half a pint of cocoa-nut milk, and an ounce of bread. The rum, though fo fmall in quantity, was of the greateft fervice. A fifhing-line was generally X towing
i84 A V O Y A G E T O
towing from the ftern of the boat, but though we faw great numbers of fifli, we could never catch one.
At noon, I obferved, in latitude i6° 4' S, and found we had made a courfe, from yefterday noon, N 62° W, diftance 62 miles ; longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 7* 42' W. . The Jand palTed yefterday, and the day before, is a group of iflands, 14 or 16 in number, lying between the la- titude of 16' 26' S and 17° 57' S, and in longitude, by my account, 4° 47' to 7° 17' W from Tofoa. Three of thefe iflands are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of fea-coaft.
In the afternoon we cleaned out the boat, and it employed us till fun-fet to get every thing dry ajid in order. Hitherto I had ilTued the allowance by guefs, but I now made a pair of fcales, with two cocoa-nut fliells ; and, having acciden- tally fome piftol-balls in the boat, 25 of which weighed ■ one pound, or 16 ounces, I adopted one*, as the proportion of weight that each perfon fhould receive of bread at the times I ferved it. I alfo amufed all hands, with defcribing the lituation of New Guinea and New Holland, and gave them every information in my power, that in cafe any ac- cident happened to me, thofe who furvived might have fome idea of what they were aljout, and be able to find their way to Timor, which at prefent they knew nothing of, more than the name, and fome not even that. At night, 1 ferved a quarter of a pint of water, and half an ounce of bread, for fupper. Saturday 9. Saturday May the 9th. In the morning, a quarter of a pint of cocoa-nut milk, and fome of the decayed bread, was ferved for breakfaft ; and for dinner, I divided the meat of four rocoa-nuts, with the remainder of the rotten bread, whicli 'was only eatable by fuch diftreflTed people.
* It weighed 272 grains.
At
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 185
At noon, I obferved the latitude to be 15° 47' S ; courfe '739-
M A V.
ilnce yefterday N 75° W, diltance 64 miles ; longitude made, «_ -g— ,'_ by account, 8" 45' W.
In the afternoon, I fitted a pair pf fhrouds for each mad, and contrived a canvafs weather cloth round the boat, and raifed the quarters about nine inches, by nailing on the feats of the ftern flieets, -which proved of great benefit to us.
The wind had been moderate all day, in the S E quarter, with fine weather; but, about nine o'clock in the evening, the clouds began to gather, and we had a prodigious fall of rain, with fcvere thunder and lightning. By midnight we caught about twenty gallons of water. Being miferably wet and cold, I ferved to the people a tea-fpoonful of rum each, to enable them to bear with their diftrefTed fituation. The weather continiied extremely bad, and the wind in- creafed ; we fpent a very miferable night, without fleep, ex- cept fuch as could be got in the midft of rain. The day Sunday 10. brought no relief but its light. The fea broke over us fo much, that two men were conftantly baling ; and we had no cho'ce how to rteer, being obliged to keep before the waves for fear of the bout filling.
The allowance now regularly ferved to each perfon was one 25th of a pound of bread, and a qiiarter of a pint of wa- ter, at eight in the morning, at noon, and at fun-fet. To- day I gave about half an ounce of pork for dinner, which, though any moderate perfon would have confidered only as a mouthful, was divided into three or four.
The rain abated towards noon, and I obferved the lati- tude to be 15° 17' S; courfe N 67° W diftance 78 miles; longitude m\.le 10° W.
The wind continued i\rong from SSE to SE, with very fqiK'Uy weather, and a high breaking fea, fo that we were miferably wet, and fuli'ered great cold in the night.
B b Monday
i86 AVOYAGETO
1789. Monday the nth. In the morning at day-break, I ferved
t_ '1'^' J to every perfon a tea-fpoonful of rum, our hmbs being fo
Monday u. cramped that we could fcarce move them. Our fituation
was now extremely dangerous, the fea frequently running
over our ftern, which kept us baling with all our ftrength.
At noon, the fun appeared, which gave us as much pleafure as in a winter's day in England. I iffued the 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, as yefherday. Latitude obferved 14° 50' S ; courfe N 71° W, diftance 102 miles; and longitude, by account, 11° 39' W from Tofoa.
In the evening it rained hard, and we again experienced Tuefday 12. a dreadful night. At length the day came, and fhowed to me a miferable fet of beings, full of wants, without any thing to relieve them. Some complained of great pain in their bowels, and every one of having almoft loll the ufe of his limbs. The little fleep we got was no ways refrefliing, as w^e were covered with fea and rain. 1 ferved a fpoonful of rum at day-dawn, and the ufual allowance of bread and water, for breakfaft, dinner, and f upper.
At noon it was almoft calm, no fun to be feen, and fome of us fliivering with cold. Courfe iince yefterday W by N, diftance 89 miles ; latitude, by account, 14° 33' S ; longitude made 13° 9' W. The direction of our courfe was to pafs to the northward of the New Hebrides.
The wet weather continued, and in the afternoon the wind came from the fouthward, blowing frelli in fqualls. As there was no profpe6l of getting ovir clothes dried, I recommended to every one to ftrip, and wring them through the fait water, by which means they received a warmth, that, while wet with rain, they could not have.
# This
T H E S O U T II S E A S, c^c. 187
This afternoon, we faw a kind of fruit on the water, 1789. which Nelfon told me was the Barringtonia of Fbrfter; , _^ ^'^^ and, as I law the fame again in the morning, and Ibme men of war birds, I was led to believe that we were not far from land.
We continued conftantly fliipping feas, and baling, and were very wet and cold in the night ; bvit I could not afford the allowance of rum at day^break.
Wednefday the 13th. At noon I had a fight of the fun, Wednefday latitude 14° 17' S; courfe W by N 79 miles ; longitude '^" made 14° 28' W.. All this day, we were conftantly fliipping water, and fuffercd much cold and fliiverings in the night.
Thurfday the 14th. Frelh gales at S E, and gloomy wea- Thurfday 14, ther, with rain, and a high fea. At fix in the morning, we faw land, from S W by S eight leagues, to N W by W i W fix leagues, which foon after appeared to be four illands, one of them much larger than the others, and all of them high and remarkable. At noon, we difcovered a fmall ifland and fome rocks, bearing N W by N four leagues, and another illand W eight leagues, fo that the whole were fix in number ; the four I had firft feen bearing from S f E to S W by S ; our diftance three leagues from the nearelt ifland. My latitude obferved was 13° 29' S, and longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 15'' 49' W ; courfe fince yelterday noon N 63" W, diftance 89 miles. At four in the after- noon, we pafTed the wefternmoft ifland.
Friday the 15th. At one in the morning, another illand Friday ij. was difcovered, bearing'W N W, five leagues diftance, and at eight o'clock wc faw it for the Lift time, bearing N E feven leagues. A number of gannets, boobies, and men of war binls were feen.
Thefc illands lie between the latitude of 13" 16' and
B b 2 14' ■
i88 AVOYAGETO
1789. 14° 10' S: their longitude, according to my reckoning,
J^J^^-^ 15° 51' to 17° 6' W from the iQandTofoa*. The largeit
illaiid I judged to be about twenty leagues in circuit, the-
others five or fix. The eafternmoft is the fmalleft ifland,.
and moft remarkable, having a high fugar-loaf hill.
The fight of theie iflands' ferved only to increafe the mifery of our fituation. We were very little better than fliarving, wdth plenty in view ; yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended with fo much danger, that pro- longing of life, even in the midft of mifery, Avas thought preferable, while there remained hopes of being able to furmount our hardfliips. For my own part, I confider the general run of cloudy and wet weather to be a bleffing of Providence. Hot weather would have caufed us to have died with thirft ; and probably being fo confl:antly covered ■with rain or fea protected us from that dreadful calamity.
As 1 had nothing to aflaft my memory, I could not then determine whether thefe iflands w^ere a part of the New Hebrides or not : I believed them to be a new difcovery, which I have fince found true; but, though they were not feen either by Monfieur Bougainville or Captain Cook,, they are fo nearly in the neighbourhood of the New He- brides, that they muft be confidered as part of the fame group. They are fertile, and inhabited, as I faw fmoke in feveral places.
The wind w^as at S E, with rainy weather all day. The night was very dark, not a fl:ar could be feen to fteer by, and the fea broke continually over us. I found it neceflTary
* By making a proportional allowance for the error afterwards found in the dead reckoning, I eftimate the longitude of thefe iflands to be from 167° if E to 168° 34' E from Greenwich.
to
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 189
to countcraJl as much as pofTiblc the effc(St of the foutherly 178Q. winds, to prevent being driven too near New Guinea ; for ^_ .-''- _f in general we were forced to keep fo much before the fea, that if we had not, at intervals of moderate weather, fteercd a more foutherly courfe, we fliould inevitably, from a continuance of the gales, have been thrown in fight of that coaft : in which cafe there would molt probably have been an end to our voyage.
Saturday the 16th. In addition to our miferable allow- Saturday i6, ance of one 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, I iffued for dinner about an ounce of fait pork to each perfon. I was often folicited for this pork, but I confidered it more proper to iffue it in fmall quantities than to fuffer it to be all ufed at once or twice, which would have been done if I had allowed ir.
At noon I obferved, in 13° 33' S; longitude made from Tofoa, 19° 27' Wj courfe N 82° W, diftance loi miles ► The fun breaking out through the clouds, gave us hopes of drying our wet clothes ; but the funfhine was of fliort duration. We had ftrong breezes at 8 E by S, and dark gloomy weather, with ftorms of thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and not a il;ar to be {ten ; fo that our fteerage was uncertain.
Sunday the 17th. At dawn of day, I found every Sunday 17; perfon complaining, and fome of them folicited extra al- lowance ; which 1 pofitively refufed. Our fituation was miferable ; always wet, and fufFering extreme cold in the night, without the leaft flielter from the weather. Being conrtantly obliged to bale, to keep the boat from filling, ■was, perhaps, not to be reckoned an evil, as it gave us exercife.
The
igo AVOYAGETO
1789. The little rum we had was of great fervice : when our
^_ ^*-''_f nights were particularly diftreffing, I generally ferved a tea- fpoonful or two to each perfon : and it was always joyful tidings when they heard of my intentions.
At noon, a water-fpotit was very near on board of us. I ilTued an ounce of pork, in addition to the allowance of bread and water ; but before we began to eat, every per- fon ftript, and having wrung their clothes through the fea- water, found much warmth and refrefliment. Courfe iince yefterday noon W S W, diftance 100 miles ; latitude, by ac- count, 14° 11' S, and longitude made 21° 3' W.
The night was dark and difmal ; the fea conflantly breaking oyer iis, and nothing but the wind and waves to dire6t our fteerage. It was my intention, if poflible, to make New Holland, to the fouthward of Endeavour ftraits, being fenfible that it was neceffary to pieferve fuch a fituation as would make a foutherly wind a fair one ; that we might range along the reefs till an opening fliould be found into fmooth water, and we the fooner be able to pick up fome refrefliment s. Monday 18. Monday, May the iSth. In the morning, the rain abated, when we ftripped, and wrung our clothes through the fea- water, as ufual, which refreflied us greatly. Every perfon complained of violent pain in their bones : I was only fur- prifed that no one was yet laid up. The cuftomary allow- ance of one 25th of a pound of bread, and a quarter of a pint of water, was ferved at breakfaft, dinner, and fupper.
At noon, I deduced my fituation, by account, for we had no glimpfe of the fun, to be in latitude 14° 52' S ; courfe fmce yefterday noon, WSW 106 miles; longitude made
from
THE SOUTH SEAS, ?cc. 391
from Tofoa 22° 4;' \V. Saw manv boobies and noddies, a ^|7^9-
^■' ' May.
fign of being in the neighbourhood of land. In the night, u— ^ j
\\Q had very fevere lightning, with heavy rain ; and were
obliged to keep baling without intermillion.
Tuefday the 19th. Very bad weather and conftant rain. Tuefdayip.
At noon, latitude, by account, 14° 37' S ; courfe fince yefter-
day N 81° \V, diltance roo miles ; longitude made 24° 30'
W. With the allowance of bread and water, fcrved half
an ounce of pork, to each perfon, for dinner.
Wednefday, May the 20th. Frefh breezes E N E with wednefdav . 20.
conftant ram ; at times a deluge. Always baling.
At dawn of day, ft)me of my people feemed half dead: our appearances were horrible; and I could look noway, but I caught the eye of fome one in dillrefs. Extreme hunger was now too evident, but no one fuffered from thirfV, nor had we much inclination to drink, that defire, perhaps, being fatisfied through the Ikin. The little fleep we got was in the miilft of water, and we conftantly awoke with fevere cramps and pains in our bones. This morning I ferved about two tea-fpoonfuls of rum to each perfon, and the allowance of bread and water, as ufual. At noon the ftin broke out, and revived every one. I found we were in latitude 14° 49' S ; longitude made 25° 46' W; courfe S 88° W, diftance 75 miles.
All the afternoon, we were fo covered with rain and fait water, that we coiild fcarcely fee. We fuffered extreme cold, and every one dreaded the approach of night. Sleep, though we longed for it, atforded no comfort : for my own part, I almoit lived without it. About two o'clock in the Thuifda) .21, morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of rain. It fell fo heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and were obliged to bale with all our might. At dawn of day, I
ferved
ipa
A VOYAGE TO
1789. ferved a larger allowance of rum. Towards noon, the rain
t, -J"/^ abated and the fun Ihone, but we were miferably cold and
wet, the fea breaking conftantly over us ; fo that, notwith-
ftanding the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to our
ftock of frefli water. Latitude, by obfervation, 14° 29' S,
and longitude made, by account, from Tofoa, 27° 25' W ;
courfe, lince yeiterday noon, N 78° W, 99 miles. I now
confidered myfelf nearly on a meridian with the eaft part
of New Guinea.
Friday 23. Friday, May the 22d. Strong gales from E SE to S S E, a
• high fea, and dark difmal night.
Our lituation this day was extremely calamitous. We were obliged to take the courfe of the fea, running right before it, and watching with the utmoft care, as the leaft error in the helm would in a moment have been our de- ftrud:ion.
At noon it blew very hard, and the foam of the fea kept running over our ftern and quarters ; I however got prop-^ ped up, and made an obfervation of the latitude, in 14° 17' S ; courfe N 85° W, diftance 130 miles ; longitude made 29° 38 W.
The mifery we fufFered this night exceeded the ' preced- ing. The fea flew over us with great force, and kept us Saturday 23. baling with horror and anxiety. At dawn of day I found every one in a moft diftreffed condition, and I began to fear that another fuch night would put an end to the lives of feveral, who feemed no longer able to fupport their fuffer- ings. I ferved an allowance of two tea-fpoonfuls of rum ; after drinking which, having wrung our clothes, and taken our breakfaft of bread and water, we became a little refrelhed.
Towards
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 193
Towards noon, the weather became fair, but v/irh very 1789. little abatement of the gale, and the fea remained equally ._ -l-'_f high. With feme difficulty I obferved the latitude to be 13° 44' S : courfe fince yefterday noon N 74" W, diftancc 116 miles ; longitude made 31° 32' W from Tofoa.
The wind moderated in the evening, and the weather looked much better, which rejoiced all hands, fo that they eat their fcanty allowance with more fatisfadliou than for fome time paft. The night alfo was fair; but being al- ways wet with the fea, we fuffered much from the cold. A fine morning, I had the pleafure to fee, produce fome Sunday 24. chearful countenances ; and, the firft time for 15 days paft, we experienced comfort from the warmth of the fun. We ftripped, and himg our clothes up to dry, which were by this time become fo thread-bare, that they would not keep out either wet or cold.
At noon, I obferved iii latitude 13° 33' S ; longitude, by ac- count, from Tofoa 33° 28' W ; courfe N 84^" W, diftance 114 miles. With the ufual allowance of bread and water for dinner, I ferved an ounce of pork to each perfon. This afternoon we had many birds about us, which are never feen far from land, fuch as boobies and noddies.
As the fea began to run fair, and we fliipped but little water, I took the opportunity to examine into the ftate of our bread, and found, that according to the prefent mode of iflii- 4ng, there was a fufficient quantity remaining for 29 days al- lowance; by which time I hoped we fliould be able to reach Timor. But as this was very uncertain, and it was poffihle that, after all, we might be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion the allowance fo as to make our ftock hold Allowance out fix weeks. I was apprehenfive that this would l)e ill ''='^'="'''- jeceived, and that it would require my utmoft refolution
C c to
194 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. to enforce it ; for, fmall as the quantity was which I intended' i^t^^,:^ to take away, for onr future good, yet it might appear to my people like robbing them of life; and fome, who. were lefs pa- tient than their companions, I expected would very ill brook it. However, on my reprefenting the neceffity of guarding againft delays that might be occafioned in our voyage by contrary winds, or other caufes, and promiling to enlarge upon the allowance as we got ou, they chearfully agreed to. my propofal. It was accordingly fettled, that every perfon iliould receive one 25th of a pound of bread for breakfaft, and the fame quantity for dinner; fo that by omitting the proportion for fupper, we had 43 days allowance. Monday t^- Monday the 25th. At noon fome noddies came fo neat to us, that one of them was caught by hand. This bird was about the lize of a fmall pigeon. I divided it, with its entrails, into 18 portions, and by a well-known method at fea, of. Who JJoall have-this^f it was diftributed, with the allowance of bread and water for dinner, and eat up bones and all, with fait water for fauce. I obferved the latitude 13° 32' S ; longitude made 35" 19' W ; courfe N 89° W,: diftance 108 miles.
In the evening, feveral boobies flying very near to us, we had the good fortune to catch one of them. This bird' is as large as a duck : like the noddy, it has received its name from feamen, for fuffering itfelf to be caught on the mafts and yards of fhips. They are themoft prefump- tive proofs of being in the neighbourhood of land of any fea- fowl we are acquainted with. I directed the bird to be
* One perfon turns his back on the objedl that is to be divided: another then points feparately to the portions, at each of them afking aloud, " Who fhall have this?" to which tlie firft anfwers by naming fomebody. This impartial method of divifion gives every man an equal chance of the beft ihare.
9 killed
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 195
killed for fuppcr, and the blood to be given to three of the 1789. people ^vho were the molt diltrefled for want of foot.J. ■ ' --'■^ The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided into 18 fliares, and with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of granting, we made a good fupper, compared with our ufual fare.
Tuefday the 26th. Frcfli breezes from the S E, with Tuefd.iy z6. fine weather. In the morning we caught another booby, fo that Providence appeared to be relieving our wants in an extraordinary manner. Towards noon, we paffed a great many pieces of the branches of trees, fome of which appeared to have been no long time in the water. I had a good obfervation for the latitude, and found our fituation to be in 13° 41' S ; longitude, by account, from Tofoa, 37' 13' W ; courfe S 85° W, iia miles. The people were over- joyed at the addition to their dinner, which was dilMbuted in the fame manner as on the preceding evening ; giving the blood to thofe who were the moft in want of food.
To make the bread a little favoury, moft of the people frequently dipped it in fait water; but I generally broke mine into fmall pieces, and eat it in my allowance of water, out of a cocoa-nut Ihell, w4th a fpoon ; economi- cally avoiding to take too large a piece at a time, {b that I was as long at dinner as if it had been a much more plentiful meal.
The weather was now ferene, which, neverthelefs, was not without its inconveniences, for we began to feel diftrefs of a different kind from that which we had lately been ac- cuftomed to fuffer. The heat of the fun was fo powerful, that feveral of the people were feized with a languor and faintnefs, which made life indifferent. We were fo fortu- nate as to catch two boobies in the evening : their ftomachs
C c a contained
196 A V O Y A G E T O
1789; contained feveral flying-fifh and fmall cuttlefifh, all of
L^ltl™; which I faved to be divided for dinner the next day.
■svedn^fday Wedncfday the 27th. A frefh breeze at E S E, with fair
^''" weather. We paffed much drift wood this forenoon, and
iaw many birds ; I therefore did not hefitate to pronounce
that we were near the reefs of New Holland. From my
recoUedion of Captain Cook's furvey of this coaft, I con-
fidered the direction of it to be N W, and I was therefore
fatisfied that, with the wind to the fouthward of E, I could
always clear any dangers.
At noon, I obferved in latitude 13° 26' S ; courfe fince yefterday N 82° W, diftance 109 miles ; longitude made 39° 4' W. After writing my account, I divided the two birds with their entrails, and the contents of their maws, into 18 portions, and, as the prize was a very valuable one, it was divided as before, by calling- out Who pall have this'? fo that to-day, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread at breakfaft, and another at dinner, with the propor- tion of water, I was happy to fee that every perfon thought he had feafted.
In the evening, M'e faw a gannet; and the clouds re- mained fo fixed in the weft, that I had little doubt of our being near the land. The people, after taking their allowance of water for fupper, amufed themfelves with converfing on the probability of what we Ihould find. ThBrfdayzS. ^ Thurfday the aSth. At one in the morning, the perfon' at the helm heard the found of breakers, and I no- fooner lifted up my head, than I faw them clofe under our lee, not more than a quarter of a mile difl:ant from us. I imme- diately hauled on a wind to the N N E, and in ten minutes lime we could neither fee nor hear them,
I have
T H E S O U T FI S E A S, &:c. 197
I have already mentioned my reafoa for making New 17R9. Holland fo far to the fouthward : for I never doubted of J^J', numerous openings in the reef, through which I could have accefs to the lliore : and, knowing the incUnation of the coail to be to the N W, and the wind moilly to the fouthw-ard of E, I could with eafe range fuch a barrier of reefs till I fhould find a paffage, which now became ab- folutely necefTary, without a moment's lofs of time. The idea of getting into fmooth water, and finding refrefli- ments, kept my people's fpirits up : their joy was very great after we had got clear of the breakers, to which we had approached much nearer than I thought was poffible, without firft difcovering them.
In the morning, at day-light, we could fee nothing of Friday 29* the land or of the reefs. We bore away again, and at nine o'clock, faw the reefs. The fea broke furioufiy over every part, and we had no foonergot near to tliem, than the wind came at E, fo that we could only lie along the line of the breakers ; within w^hich we faw the water fo fmooth, that every perfon already anticipated the heart-felt fatisfacftion he fiiould receive, as foon as we could get within them. I now found we were embayed, for we could not lie clear with the fails, the wind having backed againft us ; and the fea let in fo heavy towards the reef, that our fituation was become imfafe. We could effe^ but little with the oars, having fcarce ftrength to pull them ; and I began to apprehend that we fhould be obliged to attempt pudiing over the reef. Even this I did not defpair of eife6ling with faccefs, when happily we difcovercd a break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at the fame time an ifland of a moderate height within it, nearly in the fame direcflion, beaiing W £ N. I entered the paflagc with a flrong Itream run-
nincr
19? AVOYAGETO
M A Y.
ning to the weftward, and found it about a quarter of a mile broad, with every appearance of deep water.
On the ontfide, the reef inclined to the N E for a few miles, and from thence to the N W : on the fouth fide of the entrance, it inclined to the S S W as far as I could fee it; and I conjecSture that a fimilar paffage to this which we now entered, may be found near the breakers that I firft dif- covered, which are 23 miles S of this channel.
I did not recolleit what latitude Providential channel * lies in, but I confidered it to be within a few miles of this, which is lituate in 12° 51' S latitude.
Being now happily within the reefs, and in fmooth water, I endeavoured to keep near them to try for fifh ; but the tide fet us to the N W, I therefore bore away in that dire6tion, and, having promifed to land on the firft convenient fpot M^e could find, all our paft hardfhips feemed already to be forgotten.
At noon, I had a good obfervation, by which our latitude was 12° 46' S, whence the foregoing fituations may be confi- dered as determined with fome exacflnefs. The ifland firft feen bore W S W five leagues. This, which I have called the illand Dire6tion, will in fair weather always fhew the channel, from which it bears due W, and may be feen as foon as the reefs, from a ftiip's maft-head : it lies in the latitude of 12' 51' S. Thefe, however, are marks too fmall for a fiiip to hit, unlefs it can hereafter be afcertained that paf- fages through the reef are numerous along the coaft, which I am inclined to think they are, in which cafe there would be little rilk, even if the wind was direcSlly on the fiiore,
* Providential Channel is laid down by Captain Cook, in 12° 34' S, longitude
My
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. ' 199
My longitude, made by dead reckoning, from the ifland 1789. Tofoa to our palTagc through the reef, is 40° 10' W. Provi- ._^^^_'|'^ dential channel, I imagine, muft lie very nearly under the fame meridian with onr paffage ; by which it appears wc had out-run our reckoning 1° 9'.
We now returned God thanks for his gracious protec- tion, and with much content took our miferablc allowance of a 25th of a pound of breads and a quarter of a pint of water, for dinner.
C H A P.
200 A V O Y A G E T O
May
CHAP. XVI.
.Frogr.ejs to the Northward^ along the Coajl of New Holland.- Land on different IJlands^ in fear ch of Supplies.
1789; y^ S we advanced within the reefs, the coaft began to ±\. fliew itfelf very diftindlly, in a variety of high and low land ; fome parts of which were covered with wood. In our way towards the fliore, we fell in with a point of a reef which is conne6led with that towards the fea, and here we came to a grapnel, and tried to catch fifli, but had no fuc- cefs. The ifland Direcftion at this time bore S three or four leagues. Two illands lay about four miles to the W by N, and appeared eligible for a refting- place, if for nothing more ; but on our approach to the neareft ifland, it proved to be only a heap ©f ftones, and its fize too inconliderable to flicker the boat. We therefore proceeded to the next, which was clofe to it and towards the main. On the N W fide of this, I found a bay and a fine fandy point to land at. Our difl:ance was about a quarter of a mile from a projedling part of the main, which bore from S W by S, to N N W | W. We landed to examine if there were any figns of the natives being near us: we faw fome old fire-places, but nothing to make me apprehend that this would be an unfafe fitua- tion for the night. Every one was anxious to find fome- thing to eat, and it was foon difcovered that there were oyfters on the rocks, for the tide was out ; but it was nearly
dark,
THE.SOUT.H SEAS, Sec. 201
<Iark, and ouly a few could be gathered. I determined 1789. therefore to wait till the morning, when I fliould better ._ -*_'_; Tcnow how to proceed, and I direded that one half of our company^ flioiild fleep on fliore, and the other half in the boat. We would. gladly have made a fire, but, as we could not accpn)plifli it, we took our reft for the night, which happily was calm and undifturbed.
Friday the 29th. The dawn of day brought greater Friday 29. ftrength and fpirits to us than I expetfled ; for, notwith- ftanding every one was very weak, there appeared ftrength fufficient remaining to make me conceive the moft favour- able hopes of our being able to furmount the difficulties we might yet have to encounter.
As there were no appearances to make me imagine that any of the natives were near us, I fent out parties in fearch of fupplies, while others of the people were putting the boat in order, that we might be ready to go to fea in cafe any unforefeen caufe fliould make it neceffary. One of the gudgeons of the rudder had come out in the courfe of the night, and was loft. This, if it had happened at fea, might have been attended with the moft ferious confequences, as the management of the boat could not have been fo nicely preferved as thefe very heavy fens required. I had been ap- prehenfive of this accident, and had in fome meafure pre- pared for it, by having grummets fixed on each quarter of the boat for oars ; but our utmoft readinefs in ufing them, would not probably have faved us. It appears, therefore, a providential circumftance, that it happened in a place of fafety, and that it was in our power to remedy the defedl ; for by great good luck we found a large ftaple in the boat, which anfwered the purpofe.
D d ' The
202 AVOYAGETO
1789. The parties returned, highly rejoiced at having found
^''^- plenty of oyfters and frefh water. I had alfo made a fire, by the help of a fmall magnifying glafs ; and, what was ftill more fortunate, we found among the few things which had been thrown into the boat and faved, a piece of brim- ftone and a tinder-box, fo that I fecured fire for the fu- ture.
One of the people had been fo provident as to bring away with him from the fhip, a copper pot : by being in polTef- lion of this article we were enabled to make a proper ufe of the fupply we now obtained; for, with a mixture of bready and a little pork, we made a ftew that might have been re- liflied by people of far more delicate appetites, and of which each perfon received a full pint.
The general complaints of difeafe among us, were a diz- zinefs in the head, great weaknefs of the joints, and violent tenefmus ; moft of us having had no evacuation by flool Jince we left the fhip. I had conftantly a fevere pain at my ftomach ; but none of our complaints were alarming : on the contrary, every one retained marks of flrength, that, Avith a mind poflTefled of a tolerable fhare of fortitude, feemed able to bear more fatigue than I imagined we Ihould have to undergo in our voyage to Timor.
As I would not allow the people to expofe themfelves to the heat of the fun, it being near noon, every one took his allotment of earth where it was fliaded by the bufhes, for a lliort fleep.
The oyfters which we found, grew fo faft to the rocks, that it was with diflficulty they could be broken off; and at length we difcovered it to be the moft expeditious way to open them wh^re they were fixed. They were of a good
fize,
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 203
fize, and well taftcd. To add to this happy circumftance, 1789. ill the hollow of the land there grew Ibme wire grafs, '^ * *^' which indicated a moift lituation. On forcing a ftick, about three feet long, into the ground, wc found water, and with little trouble dug a well, which jirodiKed as much as our occafions required. It was very good, but I could not de- termine if it was a fpring or not. We were not obliged 10 make the well deep, for it flowed as full as we emptied it ; which, as the foil was apparently too loofe to retain water from the rains, render^ it probable to be a ipring. On the foutU lide of the iiland like\A ilc, we fotind a fmall run of good water.
Befides places where fires had been made, there were other figns of the natives fometimes reforting to this iiland. I faw two ill-conftrudled huts or wigwams, which had only one fide loofely covered; and a pointed Hick was found, about three feet long, with a Hit in the cud of it, to fling fliones with ; the fame as the natives of Van Diemen's land ufe.
The track of fome animal was very diicernible, and Nel- fon agreed M'ith me that it was the Kanguroo ; but whether thefe animals fwim over from the main land, or are brought here by the natives to breed, it is impoflible to determine. The latter is not improbable ; as they may be taken with lefs difficulty in a confined fpot like this, than on the con- tinent.
The ifland ig about a league in circuit : it is a high lump of rocks and flones covered with wood ; but the trees are fmall, the foil, which is very indifferent and fandy, being barely fuflicient to produce them. The trees that came within our knowledge were the manchineal and a fpecies of purow : alfo fome palm-trees, the tops of which
D d 2 wc
204 A V O Y A G E T O
M A
789. we cut down, and the foft interior part or heart of them was fo palatable that it made a good addition to our mefs. Nelfon difcovered fome fern-roots, which I thought might be good roafted, as a fubftitute for bread, but in this I was miftaken : it hovv^ever was very ferviceable in its na- tural ftatc to allay thirft, and on that account I directed a quantity to be colle6ted to take into the boat. Many pieces of cocoa-nut fliells and huflv were found about the fhore, but we could find no cocoa-nut trees, neither did I fee any on the main.
I had cautioned the people not to touch any kind of berry or fruit that they might find ; yet they were no fooner out of my fight than they began to make free with three different kinds, that grew all over the ifland, eating without any referve. The fymptoms of having eaten too much, began at laft to frighten fome of them ; but on queftioning others, who had taken a more moderate allow- ance, their minds were a little quieted. The others, how- ever, became equally alarmed in their turn, dreading that fuch fymptoms would come on, and that they were all poifoned, fo that they regarded each other with the llrongefl: marks of apprehenfion, uncertain what would be the iffue of their imprudence. Fortunately the fruit proved wholefome and good. One fort grew on a fmall delicate kind of vine ; they were the fize of a large goofeberry, and very like in fubftance, but had only*^ a fweet tafte ; the ikin was a pale red, ftreaked with yellow the long way of the fruit : it was pleafant and agreeable. Another kind grew on buflies, like that which is called the fea-fide grape in the Weft Indies ; but the fruit was very different, being more like elder-berries, and grew in clufters in the fame
manner.
T H E S O U T II S E A S, 8cc. 205
manner. The third fort was a blac:k-berry ; this was not in i7<?9. fucli plenty us the others, and rclemblcd a bulhce, or large ^_ _^_^' , kind of floe, both in lize and talle. When I faw that thclb fruits were eaten by the birds, I no longer doubted of their being wholefomc, and thofe who had already tried the ex- periment, not finding any bad effe6l,made it.a certainty that we might eat of them without danger.
Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds, were about the fummit of the ifland, but, having no fire-arms, relief of that kind was not to be expelled, unlefs we fliould find fome unfrequented fi)Ot where the birds were fo tame that we might take them with our hands.
The fliore of this ifland is very rocky? except the place at which we landed, and here I picked up many pieces of jdu- mice-fione. On the part of the main neareft to us, were fe- veral fandy bays, which at low-water became an extenfive rocky flat. The country had rather a barren appearance, except in a few places where it w'as covered with wood. A remarkable range of rocks lay a few miles to the S W, and a high peaked hill feemed to terminate the coaft to- ' wards the fea, with iilands to the fouthward. A high fair cape fliowed the direction of the coafl to the N W, about feven leagues diflant; and two finall ifles lay three or four leagues to the northward of our prefent ftation.
I faw a few bees or wafps, and feveral lizards -, and the black-berry bufhes were full of ants nefts, webbed like a fpider's, but fo clofe and compadl as not to admit the rain. A trunk of a tree, about 50 feet long, lay on the beach ; from which I conclude that a heavy fea fets in here, with a northerly wind.
This day being, the anniverfary of the reftoration of king
Charles
2o6 A V O Y A G E T O
1789- Charles the Second, and the name not being inapplicable to ;.^»,— ,.^ our prefent fimation (for we were reftored to frelh life and. ftrength), I named this Reftoration liland ; for I thought it probable that captain Cook might not have taken notice of it. The other names which I have prefumed to 9give the different parts of the coaft, are meant only to fhow my route more difliniVly.
At noon, I obferved the latitude of the ifland to be 12° 39' S; our courfe having been N 66° W, diftance 18 jniles from yefterday noon. The wind was at E S E, with very fine weather.
In the afternoon, I fent parties out again to gather oyfters, with which and fome of the inner part of the jialm-top, we made another good ftew for fupper, each perfon receiving a full pint and a half; but I refufed bread to this meal, for I confidered that our wants might yet be very great, and was intent on faving our principal fupport whenever it was in my power. After fupper, we again divided, and thofe'who were on fhore flept by a good iire. Saturday )o, Saturday, May the 3Pth. In the morning, I difcovered a vifible alteration in our company for the better, and I fent them away again to gather oyfters. We had now only two pounds of pork left. This article, which I could not keep under lock and key as I did the bread, had been pil- fered by fome inconflderate perfon, but every one denied having any knowledge of this a6t; I therefore refolved to put it out of their power for the future, by fharing what remained, for our dinner. While the party was out picking up oyfters, I got the boat in readinefs for fea, and filled all our water veflels, which amounted to nearly 60 gallons.
The party being returned, dinner was foon ready, which
was
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 207
was as plentiful a meal as the fupper on the preceding even- 1789. ingf and with the pork I gave an allowance of bread. As it ^,^^!^fZ^ was not yet noon, I fent the people once more to gather oyftcrs for a fea ftore, recommending to them to be as dilifr gent as pofTible, for that I was determined to fail in the afternoon.
At noon, I again obferved the latitude 12° 39' S ; it was then high-water, the tide had rifen three feet, but I could not be certain from whence the flood came. I deduce the time of high-water at full and change to be ten minutes paft feven in the morning.
Early in the afternoon, the people returned with the few oyfters that they had collc'fted, aad every thing w^as put into the boat. I then examined the quantity of bread re- maining, and found 38 days allowance, according to the laft mode of ilTuing a 25th of a pound at breakfaft and at din- ner.
Fair weather, and moderate breezes at E S E and S E.
Being ready for lea, I directed every perfon to attend prayers. At four o'clock we were preparing to embark ; w'hen about twenty of the natives appeared, running and hallooing to us, ©n the oppofite fliore. They were each armed with a fpear or lance, and a fliort weapon w^hicli they carried in their left hand : they made figns for us to come to them. On the top of the hills we faw the heads of many more : whether thefc were their wives and children,- or others who waited for our landing, meaning not to fhow themfelves, left we might be intimidated, I cannot fay; but, as I found we were difcovered to be on the coaft, I thought it prudent to make the beft of our way, for fear of being purfued by canoes ; though, from the accounts of captain
3 Cook,
2o8 AVOYAGETO
1789. Cook, the chance was that there were very few if any of ^_^^ ^ "^' . confequence. on any part of the coaft. I palTed thefe peo- ple as near as I could with fafety : they were naked, and apparently black, and their hair or wool bulliy and fliort.
I dire6ted my courfe within two fmall iflands that lie to the north of Reftoration Illand, pafling between them and the main land, towards Fair Cape, with a ftrong tide in my favour ; fo that I was abreaft of it by. eight o'clock. The coaft we paffed was high and woody. As I could fee no land without Fair Cape, I concluded that the coaft inclmed to the N W and W N W : I therefore fteered more to- wards the W ; but by eleven o'clock at night, we met with low land, which inchned to the NE; and at three o'clock in the morning I found that we were embayed, which obliged us to ftand back for a flaort time to the fouthward. Sunday 31. Sunday the 31ft. At day-break, I was exceedingly fur- prifed to find the appearance of the country entirely changed, as if in the courfe of the night we had been tranfported to another part of the world; for we had now a low fandy coaft in view, with very little verdure, or any thing to indicate that it was at all habitable to a hu- man being, except a few patches of fmall trees or brufh- wood.
Many fmall iflands were in fight to the N E, about fix miles diftant. The E part of the main bore N four miles, and Fair Cape S S E five or fix leagues. I took the chan- nel between the neareft ifland and the main land, which were about one mile apart, leaving all the iflands on the ftarboard fide. Some of thefe were very pretty fpots, covered with wood, and well fituated for fifliing : large flioals of
fifli
THE SOUTH si: AS, gcc. ^09
filli were about us, but we could not catch any. In pafling i7«9- this ftrait we faw another party of Indians, Teven in num- u-^-^-^ her, running towards us, fliouting and making llgns for us to land. Some of them waved green branches of the bulh^s which were near them, as a token of frienchliip ; but fome of their other motions were Icfs friendly. A Uttle farther off, we faw a larger party, who likcwife came towards us. I therefore determined not to land, though I much willied to have had fome intercourfe with thcfe people. Nevcrthe- lefs I laid the boat clofe to the rocks, and beckoned to them to approach ; but none of them would come within 200 yards of us. They were armed in the fame manner as the people we had feen from Reftoration liland ; they were ftark naked, their colour black, with fliort buQiy hair or wool, and in their appearance were llmilar to them in every refpedf. An ifland of a good height bore N r W, four miles from us, at which I refolved to land, and from thence to take a look at the coaft. At this ille we arrived about eight o'clock in the morning. The fliore was rocky, but the water was fmooth, and we landed without clifHculty. I fent two parties out, one to the northward, and the other to the fouthward, to feek for fupplies, and others I ordered to ftay by the boat. On this occafion, fatigue and weaknels fo far got the better of their {eni'e of duty, that fome of the people exprefled their difcontent at hav- ing worked harder thnn their companions, and declared that they would rather be without their (Unner than go in fearch of it. One perfon, in particular, went fo far as to tell mc, with a niutinous look, that he was as good a man as myfelf. It was not poflible for me to judge where this might have an end, if not (topped in time; therefore to prevent fuch difputcs in future, I determined either to pre-
E c forve
2IO A V O Y A G E T O
>789- ferve my command, or die in the attempt : and, feizing a _ -_-^'j. cntlafs, I ordered him to take hold of another and defend himfelf ; on which he called out that I was going to kill him, and immediately made conceffions. I did not allow this to interfere further with the harmony of the hoat's crew, and every thing foon became quiet.
The parties continued colle6ling what they could find, which were fome fine oyfters and clams, and a few fmall dog-fifli that were caught in the holes of the rocks. We alfo found fome rain-water in the hollow of the rocks, on the north part of the ifland, fo that of this eflential article we were again fo fortunate as to obtain a full fupply.
After regulating the mode of proceeding, I walked to the higheft part of the ifland, to confider our route for the night. To my furprife, no more of the main land could be {een here than from below, the northern moft part in fight, which was full of fand-hills, bearing W by N, about three leagues. Except the ifles to the E S E and S, that we had palfed, I could only difcover a fmall key N W by N. As this was confiderably farther from the main than the fpot on which we were at prefent, I judged it would be a more fecure refting-place for the night; for here we were liable to an attack, if the Indians had canoes, as they undoubt- edly muft have obferved our landing. My mind being made upon this point, 1 returned, after taking a particular look at the iiland we were on, which I found only to produce a few bullies, and iome coarfe grafs ; the extent of the whole not being two miles in circuit. On the north fide, in a fandy bay, I faw an old canoe, about 33 feet long, lying bottom upwards, and half buried in the beach. It was made of three pieces, the bottom entire, to which the fides were fewed in the common way. It had a fiiarp pr-oje£ling prow rudely
carvedj
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 2H
carved, in refcmblancc of the head of a fifli ; the extreme 1789. breadth was about three feet, and I imagine it was capable ._ -V'_ of carrying 20 men. The cUfcovery of fo large a canoe, con- firmed me in the purpofe of feeking a more retired place for our night's lodging.
AT: noon, the parties were all returned, but had found much difficulty ingathering the oyfters, from their clofe adherence to the rocks, and the clams were fcarce : I there- fore faw, that it would be of little ufe to remain longer in this place, as we fliould not be able to collect more than we could eat. I named this Sunday Uland : it lies N by W J W from Reftoration llhnd ; the latitude, by a good obferva- tion, ii°58'S.
We had a frefli breeze at S E by S, with fair weather. At two o'clock in the afternoon, we dined; each perfon having a full pint and a half of ftewed oyftcrs and clams, thickened with fmall beans, which Nelfon informed mc were a fpecies of Dolichos. Having eaten heartily, and completed our water, I waited to determine the time of high-water, which I found to be at three o'clock, and the rife of the tide about five feet. According to this, it is higli- water on the full and change at 19 minutes paft 9 in the morning : I obferved the flood to come from the fouth- ward, though at Reftoration Ifland, I thought it came from the northward. I think captain Cook mentions that he found great irregularity in the fet of the flood on this coaft.
We fleered for the key feen in the N W by N, where we arrived juft at dark, but found it fo furrounded by a reef of rocks, that I could not land without danger of fl:aving the boat ; and on that accoxint we came to a grapnel tbr the night.
Monday, June the ifl. At dawn of day, we got on fliore, Monday'i,
E c 2 and
212 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. and tracked the boat into fhelter; for the wind blowing ^"^_^'_, frefli without, and the ground being rocky, it was not fafe to truft her at a grapnel, left llie fhonld be blown to fea : I was, therefore, obliged to let her ground in the courfe of the ebb. From appearances, I expe6ted that if we remained till night we ftiould meet with turtle, as we difcovered recent tracks of them. Innumerable birds of the noddy- kind made this ifland their refting-place ; fo that we had reafon to flatter ourfelves with hopes of getting fupplies in greater abundance than it had hitherto been in our power. Our lituation was at leaft four leagues diftant from the main. We were on the north-wefternmoft of four fmall keys, which were furrounded by a reef of rocks connecfled by fand-banks, except between the two nor- thernmoft ; and there likewife it was dry at low water; the whole forming a lagoon ifland, into which the tide flowed : at this entrance I kept the boat.
As ufual, I fent parties away in fearch of fupplies, but, to our great difappointment, we could only get a few clams and Ibme dolichos : with thefe, and the oyfters we had brought from Sunday Ifland, I made up a mefs for din- ner, with the addition of a fmall quantity of bread.
Towards noon, Nelfon, and fome others, who had been to the eafternmoft key, returned ; but Nelfon was in fo weak a condition, that he was obliged to be fupported by two men. His complaint was a violent heat in his bowels, a lofs of fight, much drought, and an inability to walk. This I found was occafioned by his being unable to fupport the heat of the fun, and that, when he was fatigued and faint, inftead of retiring into the fliadc to reft, he had con- tinued to attempt more than his ftrength was equal to. 1 was glad to find that he had no fever; and it was now
that
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. ai;
tliat tlic little wine, which I had lb carefully faved, be- 17S9. came of real life. I gave it in very fmall quantities, with ^_ " 1*' fome pieces of bread foaked in it ; and he foon began to recover. The boatfwain and carpenter alfo were ill, and complained of head-ach, and fickncfs of the ftomach. Others, who had not had any evacuation by ftool, became fliockingly diftrcffed with the tenefmus ; fo that there were but few without complaints. An idea prevailed, that the ficknefs of the boatlwain and carpenter was occa- fioncd by eating the dolichos. Myfelf, however, and fome others, who had taken the lame food, felt no inconveni- ence; but the truth was, that many of the people had eaten a large quantity of them raw, and Nelfon informed me, that they were conftantly teazing him, whenever a berry was found, to know if it was good to eat -, fo that it would not have been furpriling if many of them had been really poifoned.
Our dinner was not fo w'ell relilhed as at Sunday Ifland, bccaufe we had mixed the dolichos with our ftew. The oyfters and foup, however, were eaten by every one, except Nelfon, whom I fed with a few fmall pieces of bread foaked in half a glafs of wine, and he continued to mend.
In my walk round the ifland, I found feveral cocoa-nut fliells, the remains of an old wigwam, and the backs of two turtle, but no fign of any quadruped. One of the people found three fea-fowl's eggs.
As is common on fuch fpots, the foil is little other than fund, yet it produced fmall toa-trees, and fome others, that we were not acquainted with. There were lilli in the la- goon, but we could not catch any. Our wants, therefore, were not likely to be fupplied here, not even with water for our daily expence : neverthelefs, I determined to wait
till
214 AVOYAGETO
till the morning, that we might try our fuccefs in the night for turtle and birds. A quiet night's reft alfo, I conceived, would be of elTential fervice to thofe who were unwell.
The wigwam and turtle fliell, were proofs that the natives at times vilited this place; and that they had canoes, the remains of the large canoe that we faw at Sunday Illand, left no room to doubt : ' but I did not apprehend that we ran any rifk by remaining here a fhort time. I directed our fire, however, to be made in the thicket, that we might not be difcovered by its light.
At noon, I obferved the latitude of this ifland to be 11° 47' S. The main land extended towards the N W, and was full of white fand-hills : another fmall ifland lay with- in us, bearing W by N J N, three leagues diftant. Our Htuation being very low, we could fee nothing of the reef towards the fea.
The afternoon was advantageoufly fpent in fleep. There were, however, a few not difpofed to it, and thofe were employed in drefling fome clams to take with us for the next day's dinner : others we cut up in flices to dry, which I knew was the moft valuable fupply we could find here ; but they were very fcarce.
Towards evening, I cautioned every one againft making too large a fire, or fuffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover had the fuperintendence of this bufinefs, while I was ftrolling about the beach to obferve if I thought it could be feen from the main. I was juft fatif- fied that it could not, when on a fudden the ifland appear- ed all in a blaze, that might have been difcerned at a much more confiderable diftance. I ran to learn the caufe, and found that it was occafioned by the imprudence and obftinacy 7 of
T H E S O U T II S E A S, &c. 215
of one of the party, who, in my abfence, had iiififted on having a fire to himfclf ; in making which the flames caught the neighbouring grafs and rapidly fprcad. This milconduct might liave produced very ferious confequences, by dilcovering our fituation to the natives ; for, if they had attacked us, we had neither arms nor ftrength to oppofe an enemy. Thus the rchef which I expccTted from a little flecp was totally loft, and I anxioully waited for the flowing of the tide, that we might proceed to fea.
It was high-water at half paft five this evening, whence I deduced the time, on the full and change of the moon, to be 58 paft 10 in the morning : the rife was nearly five feet. I could not obferve the fet of the flood ; but ima- gined it to come from the fouthward, and that I was mif- taken at Reftoration Ifland, as I found the time of high- water gradually later the more we advanced to the north- ward.
At Reftoration Ifland, high water, full and change, 7' 10' Sunday Ifland, - - - - -- 919
Here, -- _«__ -10 58
After eight o'clock, Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to watch for turtle, and three men went to the eaft key to endeavour to catch birds. All the others complaining of being Tick, took their reft, except Mr. Hayward and Mr. Elphinfton, whom I directed to keep watch. About mid- night the bird party returned, with only twelve noddies, birds which I have already delcribed to be about the fize of pigeons: but if it had not been for the folly and obfti- nacyof one of the party, v. ho feparated from the other two, and difturbed tlie birds, they might have caught a groat number. 1 was lb much provoked at my plans being thus
defeated.
2i6 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. defeated, that I gave this offender * a good beating. I now yJjJLlj went in fearch. of the turtling party, who had taken great pains, but without fuccefs. This did not furprife me, as it was not to be expe6led that turtle would come near us, after the noife which had been made at the be- ginning of the evening in extinguifliing the fire. I there- fore defired them to come back, but they requefted to ftay a little longer,'-as they ftill hoped to find fome before day- light ; however, they returned by three o'clock, without any reward for their labour.
The birds we half dreffed, that they might keep the better: and thefe, with a few clams, made the whole of the fupply procured here. I tied a few gilt buttons and fome pieces of iron to a tree, for any of the natives that might come after us ; and; finding my invalids much better for their night's reft, we embarked, antl departed by dawn of Tuefday 2. day. Wind at S E ; courfe to the N by W.
When we had ran two leagues to the northward, the fea fuddenly became rough, which not having before experi- enced fince we were within the reefs, I concluded to be oc- cafioned by an open channel to the ocean. Soon afterwards, we met with a large flioal, on which were two fandy keys ; between thefe and two others, four miles to the weft, I paffed on to the northward, the fea ftill continuing to be rough .
Towards neon, I fell in with fix other keys, moft of which prodviced fome fmall trees and brufli-wood. Thefe formed a pleafing contraft with the main land we had
* Robert Lamb. — This man, when he came to Java, acknowledged he had eaten pine birds raw, after lie feparated from his two companions,
paffed,
THE SOUTH SEAS, See. ai7
pafTed, which M'as full of fand-hills. The country continued hilly, and the northernmoft land, the fame we had feen from the lagoon ifland, api")eared like downs, Hoping to- wards the Tea. Nearly abreaR of us, was a flat-topped hill, which on account of its fliapc, I called Pudding-pan hill ; and a little to the northward were two other hills, which we called the Paps ; and here was a fniall trai5t of country without fand, the eailern part of which forms a cape, whence the coait inclines to the N W by N.
At noon, I obfervcd in the latitude of ii" i8' S, the cape bearing W, diftant ten miles. Five fmail keys bore from N E to S E, the neareft of them about two miles diftant, and alow fandy key between us and the cape bore W, dif- tant four miles. My courfe from the lagoon ifland had been N k W, diftant 30 miles.
I am forry it was not in my power to obtain a fufficient knowledge of the depth of water ; but in our fituation nothing could be undertaken that m-ight have occafioned delay. It may however be underftood, that, to the beft of my judgment, from appearances, a fhip may pafs where- ever I have omitted to reprefent danger.
I divided fix birds, and iflued one 25th of a pound of bread, with half a pint of water, to each perfon for dinner, and I gave half a glafs of wine to Nelfon, who was now fo far recovered as to require no other indulgence.
The gunner, when he left the fhip, brought his watch with him, by which we had regulated our time till to-day, when unfortunately it flopped ; fo that noon, fun-rife, and fun-fet, are tlie only parts of the 24 hours of which from henceforward I can fpeak with certainty, as to time.
The wind blew frefli from the S S E and S E all the after- noon, with fair weather. As we flood to the N by W,
F f we
2i8 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. we found more fea, which I attributed to our receiving ^ju N^i.^^ j^^g flielter from the reefs to the eaftward : it is probable they do not extend fo far north as this ; at leaft, it may be concluded that there is not a continued barrier to prevent Ihipping having accefs to the Ihore. I obferved that the ftream fet to the N W, which I confidered to be the flood. In feme places along the coaft, we faw patches of wood. At five o'clock, fteering to the N W, we pafled a large and fair inlet, into which, I imagine, there is a fafe and com- modious entrance; it lies in latitude 11° S. About three leagues to the northward of this is an ifland, at which we arrived about fun-fet, and took fhelter for the night under a fandy point, which was the only part we could land at. This being rather a wild fituation, I thought it belt to fleep in the boat : neverthelefs I fent a party away to fee if any thing could be got, but they returned without fuccefs. They faw a great number of turtle bones and fhells, where the natives had been feafting, and their laft vifit feemed to be of late date. The ifland was covered with wood, but in other refpe6ls, it was a lump of rocks. Wednefdays. Wcdnefday the 3d. We lay at a grapnel till day-light, with a very frefli gale and cloudy weather. The main bore from S E by S to N N W f W, three leagues ; and a moun- tainous ifland, with a flat top, N by W, four or five leagues ; between which and the main land were feveral other iflands. The fpot we were at, which I call Turtle Ifland, lies in latitude, by account, 10° 52' S ; and 42 miles W from Reftoration Ifland. Abreaft of it, the coaft has the appearance of a fandy defert, but improves about three leagues farther to the northward, where it terminates in a point, near to which are many fmall iflands. I failed between thefe iflands, where I found no bottom at twelve
fathoms ;
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 219
fathoms; the high mountainous ifl and with a flat top, and four rocks to the S E of it, that I call the Brothers, being on my (larboard hand. Soon after, an extenfive opening ap- peared in the main land, in which were a num'")er of high illands. I called this the Bay of Iflands. We continued fleering to the N W. Several iflands and keys were in light to the northward: the mofl northerly ifland was mountain- ous, ha\ ing on it a very high round hill ; and a fmaller was remarkable for a Angle peaked hill.
* The coaft to the northward and weftward of the Bay of Iflands, is high and woody, and has a broken appearance, . with many iflands clofe to it ; among which there are fine bays, and convenient places for fliipping. The northern- moft of thefe iflands I call Wednefday Ifland : to the N W of this we fell in with a large reef, which I believe joins a number of keys that were in fight from the N W to the E N E. We therefore flood to the S W half a league, when it was noon, and I had a good obfervation of the latitude in 10'' 31' S. Wednefday Ifland bore E by S five miles ; the wefternmoft land in fight S W two or three leagues ; the iflands to the northward, from N W by W, to N E, and the reef from W to N E, diftant one mile. I was now tolerably certain that we fhould be clear of New Holland in the afternoon.
I know not how far this reef extends. It may be a con- tinuation, or a detached part of the range of flioals that furround the coaft. I believe the mountainous iflands to be feparate from the flioals ; and have no doubt that near them may be found good paflages for fliips. But I rather recommend to thofe who are to pafs this ftrait from the eaftward, to take their direcSlion from the coaft of New
F f 2 . Guinea:
2^0 AVOYAGETO
Guinea : yet, I likewife think that a fhip coming from the fouthward, will find a fair llrait in the latitude of ia° S. I much wifhed to have afcertained this point ; but in our diftrefsful fituation, any increafe of fatigue, or lofs af time, might have been attended with the moft fatal confeqiiences. I therefore determined to pafs on without delay.
As an addition lo our dinner of bread and water, I ferved to each perfon fix oyfters.
At two o'clock in the afternoon, as we were fleering to the S W, towards the wefternmoft part of the land in fight, we fell in with fome large fand-banks that run off from the coaft : I therefore called this Shoal Cape. We were obliged to fteer to the northward again, till we got round the fhoals, when I directed the courfe to the W.
At four o'clock, the wefternmoft of the iflands to the northward, bore N four leagues ; Wednefday ifland E by N five leagues ; and Shoal Cape S E by E two leagues. A fmall ifland was feen bearing W, at which we arrived before dark, and found that it was only a rock, where boobies refort, for which reafon I called it Booby llland. Here terminated the rocks and flioals of the N part of New Holland, for, except Booby Ifland, no land was feen to the weftward of S, after three o'clock this after- noon.
I find that Booby Ifland was feen by Captain Cook, andy by a remarkable coincidence of ideas, received from- him the fame name ; but 1 cannot with certainty reconcile the fituation of fome parts of the coaft that I have feen, to his furvey. I afcribe this to the various forms in which land appears, when feen from the different heights of a fliip
and
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. zzi
and a boat. The chart I have given, is by no means meant '789- to fuperfede that made by Captain Cook, who had better ^_^_ -,- 1, opportunities than I had, and was in every rcliJCcl pro- perly provided for furveying. The intention of min^ is chiefly to render this narrative more intelUgible, and to fhevv in what manner the coaft appeared to me from an open boat. I have httle doubt but that the opening, which I named the Bay of Iflands, is Endeavour Straits; and that our track was to the northward of Prince of Wales's Ifles. Perhaps, by thofe who fliall hereafter na- vigate thefe feas, more advantage may be derived from the pofieffion of both o\ir charts, than from either of them fmgly.
c HA p.
£21 AVOYAGETO
CHAP. xvir.
Tajjage from New Holland to the IJland 'Timor. — Arrive at Coupang. — Reception there.
T eight o'clock in the evening, we once more launch- ed into the open ocean. Miferable as our lituation Wedne/day3. was in every refpe(5t, I was fecretly furprifed to fee that it did not appear to afFedl any one fo ftrongly as myfelf ; on the contrary, it feemed as if they had embarked on a voyage to Timor, in a velTel fufficiently calculated for fafe- ty and convenience. So much confidence gave me great pleafure, and I may venture to affert, that to this caufe our prefervation is chiefly to be attributed.
I encouraged every one with hopes that eight or ten days would bring us to a land of fafety ; and j after praying to God for a continuance of his moft gracious protedtion, I ferved an allowance of water for fupper, and diredted our courfe to the W S W, to counteract the foutherly winds, in cafe they Ihould blow ftrong.
We had been juft fix days on the coaft of New Holland, in the courfe of which we found oyflers, a few clams, fome birds, and water. But perhaps a benefit nearly eqvial to this we received, by having been relieved from the fatigue of being conftantly in the boat, and enjoying good reft at night. Thefe advantages certainly preferved our lives ; and, fmall as the fupply was, I am very fenfible how much it alleviated 4 our
T H E S O U T H S E A S, 8cc. 223
our diftrefles. By this time, nature muft have funk under the extremes of hunger and fatigue. Some would have ceafed to ftruggle for a life that only promifed wretched- nefs and mifery ; and others, though pofTcflcd of more bodily ftrength, muft foon have followed their unfortunate com- panions. Even in our prefent fituation, \vc were moll de- plorable objecSIs ; but the hopes of a fjicedy rdicf kept up our fpirits. For my own part, incredible as it may appear, I felt neither extreme hunger nor thirft. My allowance contented me, knowing that I could have no more.
Thurfday the 4th. I ferved one 25th of a pound of Thurfday 4. bread, and an allowance of water, for breakfaft, and the fame for dinner, with an addition of fix oyfters to each per- fon. At noon, latitude obferved 10" 48' S ; courfe fince yefterday noon S 81° W, diftance iii miles; longitude, by account, from Shoal Cape, 1° 45' W. A ftrong trade wind at E S E, with fair weather.
This day, we faw a number of water-fnakes, that were ringed yellow and black, and towards noon we pafled a great deal of rock-weed. Though the weather was fair, we were conftantly lliipping water, which kept two men always employed to bale the boat.
Friday the 5th. At noon, I obferved in latitude 10° 45' S ; Friday j. our courfe fmce yefterday W i N, 108 miles ; longitude made 3° 35' W. Six oyfters were, as yefterday, ferved to each man, in addition to the ufual allowance of bread and water.
In the evening, a few boobies came about us, one of which I caught with my hand. The blood was divided among three of the men who were weakeft, but the bird I ordered to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served
a quarter
i24
A VOYAGE TO
a quarter of a pint of water for fupper, and to fome, who were moft in need, half a pint. In the courfe of the night, being conftantly wet with the fea, we fufFered much cold and fliiverings. Saturday 6. Saturday the 6th. At day-light, I found that fome of the clams, which had been hung up to dry for fea-ftore, were ftolen ; but every one folemnly denied having any knowledge of it. This forenoon we faw a gannet, a fand- lark, and fome water-fnakes, which in general were from two to three feet long.
The tifuai allowance of bread and water was ferved for breakfaft, and the fame for dinner, with the bird, which I diftributed in the ufual way, of Who fhall have this ? I propofed to make Timor about the latitude of 9° 30' S, or 10" S. At noon I obferved the latitude to be 10" 19' S ; courfe N 77° W, diftance 117 miles ; longitude made from . the Shoal Cape, the north part of New Holland, 5" 31' W.
In the afternoon, I took an opportunity of examining our ftore of bread, and found remaining 19 days allow- ance, at the former rate of ferving one 25th of a pound three times a day : therefore, as I faw every profpe6t of a quick paflage, I again ventured to grant an allowance for fupper, agreeable to my promife at the time it was dif- continued.
We pafTed the night miferably wet and cold, and in the Sunday 7. morniug I heard heavy complaints. The fea was high and breaking over us. I could only afford the allowance of bread and water for breakfaft ; but for dinner I gave out an ounce of dried clams to each perfon, which was all that remained.
At noon, I altered the courfe to the W N W, to keep more
from
THE SOUTH S E A S, &c. 225
from the Tea, as the wind blew ftrong. Latitude obferved 9° 31' S; courle N 57° W, diftance 88 miles; longitude made 6° 46' \V.
The fea ran very high all this day, and we had frequent fliowers of rain, fo that we were continually wet, and fuf- fered much cold in the night. Mr. Ledward, the furgeon, and Lawrence Lebogue, an old hardy feaman, appeared to be giving way very faft. I could only afhlt them by a tea- fpoonful or two of wine, which I had carefully faved, ex- pedting fuch a melancholy necellity.
Monday the 8th. Wind at S E. The weather was more Mondays, moderate than it had been for fome days pad. A few gannets were feen. At noon, I obferved in 8° 45' S ; courfe W N VV i W, 106 miles ; longitude made 8° 23' W. The fca being fmooth, I ftecred W by S.
At four in the afternoon, we caught a fmall dolphin, which was the firft relief of the kind that we obtained. I iifued about two ounces to each perfon, including the offals, and faved the remainder for dinner the next day. Towards evening the wind frefliened, and it blew ftrong all night, fo that we fliipped much water, and fuffered greatly from the wet and cold.
Tuefday the gth. At day-light, as ufual, I heard much TaefJayg. complaining, which my own feelings convinced me was too well founded. I gave the furgeon and Lebogue a little wine, but I could atford them no farther relief, except en- couraging them with hopes that a very few days longer, at our prefcnt fine rate of failing, would bring us to Timor.
Gannets, boobies, men of war and ti-opic birds, were conftantly about us. Served the ufual allowance of bread and water, and at noon we dined on the remains of the
G g dolphin,
a26 A VOYAGE TO
1789. dolphin, which amovinted to about an ounce per man.
^ J " " ^' , I obferved the latitude to be 9° 9' S; longitude made 10° 8' W; courfe fince yefterday noon S 76° W; diftance 307 miles.
This afternoon, I fufFered great ficknefs from the nature of part of the flomach of the fifh, which had fallen to my lliare at dinner. At fun-fet I ferved an allowance of bread and water for lupper. Wednefday Wcducfday the lotli. In the morning, after a very com- fortlefs night, there was a viiible alteration for the worfe in many of the people; which gave me great apprehenlions. An extreme weaknefs, fwelled legs, hollow and ghaftly countenances, a more than common inclination to fleep, with an apparent debility of underftanding, feemed to me the melancholy prefages of an approaching diffolution. The furgeon and Lebogue, in particular, were moft miferable objedls. I occafionally gave them a few tea-fpoonfuls of wine, out of the little that remained, which greatly affifted them. The hopes of being able to accoraplilh the voyage, was our principal fupport. The boatfwain very innocently told me, that he really thought I looked worfe than any one in the boat. The fimplicity with which he uttered fuch an opinion amufed me, and I returned him a better compliment.
Our latitude at noon, was 9* 16' S. Longitude from the north part of New Holland, 12° i' W. Courfe fince yefler- day noon, W 5 S, iii miles. Birds and rock- weed lliewed that we were not far from land ; but I expecfted fuch figns- here, as there are many iflands between the eafl part of Timor and New Guinea. The night was more moderate than the lall.
Thurfdayij. Thurfday the nth. Every one received the cuftomary
allowance
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 217
allowance of bread and water, and an extra allowance of 1789. water was given to thofe who were moft in need. At ._ 'I'L" ,, noon I obferved in latitude 9° 41' S ; courfe S 77° W, dif- tance 109 miles ; longitude made 13* 49' W. I had little doubt of having now pafTed the meridian of the eaftern part of Timor, which is laid down in 128"* E. This diffufed univerfal joy and fatisfadion.
In the afternoon, we faw gannets, and many other birds, and at fun-fet we kept a very anxious look-out. In the evening we caught a booby, which I referved for our din- ner the next day.
Friday the r2th. At three in the morning, with an ex- Friday i*. cefs of joy, we difcovered Timor bearing from W S W to , W N W, and I hauled on a wind to the N N E till day- light, when the land bore from S W by S to N E by N. Our diftance from the fliore, two leagues.
It is not poflible forme to defcribe the pleafure which the bleiling of the fight of this land diffufed among us. It ap- peared fcarce credible to ourfclvcs, that in an open boat, and fo poorly provided, we fliould have been able to reach the coaft of Timor in forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having in that time run, by our log, a diftance of 3618 miles ; and that, notwithftanding our extreme diftrels, no one fhould have perifhed in the voyage.
I have already mentioned, that I 'knew not where the Dutch fettlement was fituated ; but I bad a faint idea that it was at the S W part of the ifland. I therefore, after day-light, bore away along fliore to the S S W, which I was the more readily induced to do, as the wind would not fuffer us to go towards the N E without great lofs of time.
G g 2 The
228 A V O Y A G E T O
1789. The day gave us a moft agreeable profpe(5t of the land,
siZ-^^J^ which was interfperfed with woods and lawns ; the interior part mountainous, but the fliore lov.^ Towards noon, the coaft became higher, with fome remarkable head-lands. We were greatly delighted with the general look of the country, which exhibited many cultivated fpots and beau- tifid fituations ; but we could only fee a few fmall huts, Avhence I concluded that no European refided in this part of the iiland. Much fea ran on the fliore, which made landing impradlicable. At noon, we were abreaft of a high head-land ; the extremes of the land bore S W f W, and N N E I E ; our diftance off fliore being three miles ; latitude, by obfervation, 9° 59' S ; and my longitude, by dead reckoning from the north part of New Holland, 15° 6' W.
With the ufual allowance of bread and water for dinner, I divided the bird we had caught the night before j and to the furgeon and Lebogue I gave a little wine.
The wind blew freHi at E, and E S E, with very hazy weather. During the afternoon, we continued our courfe along a low fhore, covered with innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm from the leaf fpreading like a fan ; but here we faw no figns of cultivation, nor had the country fo fine an appearance as to the eaflward. This, however, was only a fmall tradl, for by fun-fet it improved again, and I faw feveral great fmokes where the inhabitants were clearing and cultivating their grounds. We had now ran 25 miles to the W S W fince noon, and were W five miles from a low point, which, in the afternoon, I imagined had been the fouthernmoft land ; and here the coaft formed a deep bend, ^yith low land in the bight that appeared like
iflands.
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 229
iflands. The weft fliore was high ; but from this part of 1739. the coaft to the high cape which we were al)reall of ,_ ".^Jjf at noon, the fliore is low, and I beheve flioal. I particu- larly remark this fituation, becaufe here the very high ridge of mountains, that run from the eaft end of the ifland, terminate, and the appearance of the country changes for the worfe.
That we might not run paft any fettlement in the night, I determined to preferve my ftation till the morn- ing, and therefore broxight to under a clofe-rcefed fore- fail. We were here in flioal water, our diftance from the fhore being half a league, the wefternmoft land in fight bearing W S W i W. Served bread and water for flipper, and the boat lying to very well, all but the ofiicer of the watch endeavoured to get a little lleep.
Saturday the 13th. At two in the morning, we wore, and Saturday 13. ftood in lliore till day-light, when I found we had drifted, during the night, about three leagues to the W S W, the fouthernmoft land in fight bearing W. On examining the coaft, and not feeing any fign of a fettlement, we bore away to the weftward, having a ftrong gale, againft a weather current, which occafioned much fea. The fhore was high and covered with wood; but we did not run far, before low land again formed the coaft, the points of which opening at weft, I once more fancied we were on the fouth part of the iftand ; but at ten o'clock we found the coaft again in dining towards the fouth, part of it bear- ing W S W s W. At the fame time, high land appeared in theS W ; but the weather was fo hazy, that it was doubtful whether the two lands were feparated, the opening only ex- tending one point of the compafs. For this rcafon I ftood
towards
250 A V O Y A G E T O
towards the outer land, and found it to be the ifland Roti.
I returned to the iliore we had left, and brought to a grap- nel in a fandy bay, that I might more conveniently calculate my fituation. In this place, we faw feveral fmokes, where the natives were clearing their grounds. During the lit- tle time we remained here, the mafter and carpenter very much importuned me to let them go in fearch of fupplies ; to which, at length, I aiTented ; but, not finding any other perfon willing to be of their party, they did not choofe to qtiit the boat. I flopped here no longer than for the pur- pofe jufl mentioned, and we continued fleering along fhore. We had a view of a beautiful-looking country, as if formed by art into lawns and parks. The coafl is low, and covered with woods, in which are innumerable fan palm-trees, that look like cocoa-nut walks. The interior part is high land, but very different from the more eaftern parts of the ifland, where it is exceedingly mountainous, and to appearance, the foil better.
At noon, the ifland Roti bore S W by W feven leagues. I had no obfervation for the latitude, but by account, we' were in lo" 12 S ; our courfe fince yefterday noon being S 77° W, 54 miles. The ufual allowance of bread and water was ferved for breakfail: and dinner, and to the furgeon and Lebogue, I continued to give wine.
We had a ftrong breeze at E S E, with hazy weather, all the afternoon. At two o'clock, having run through a very dan- gerous breaking fea, the caufe of which I attributed to be a ftrong tide fetting to windward, and flioal water, we difco- vered a fpacious bay or found, with a fair entrance about two or three miles wide. I now conceived hopes that our 2 voyage
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 2Jt
voyage was nearly at an end, as no place could appear more eligible forfliipping, or more likely to bechofen for an Eu- ropean fcttlement : I therefore came to a grapnel near the call fide of the entrance, in a fmall fimdy bay, where we law a hut, a dog, and fomc cattle ; and 1 immediately fent the boatfwain and gunner away to the hut, to difcover the inhabitants.
The S \V point of the entrance bore W { S three miles ; the S E point S by W three quarters of a mile ; and the ifland Roti from S by W i W to S W i W, about five leagues.
While we lay here, I found the ebb came from the north- ward, and before our departure the falling of the tide difcovered to us a reef of rocks, about two cables length from the fliore : the whole being covered at high-wa- ter, renders it dangerous. On the oppolite fliore alfo appeared very high breakers ; but there is neverthelels plenty of room, and certainly a fafe channel for a firft- rate man of war.
The bay or found within, feemed to be of a confiderable extent ; the northern part being about five leagues diftant. Mere the land made in moderate rifings joined by lower grounds. But the illand Roti to the fouthward, is the beft mark by which to know this place.
I had juil time to make thefe remarks, n\ hen I faw the boatfwain and gunner returning with fome of the natives r 1 therefore no longer doubted of our fuccefs, and that our expectations would be fully gratified. They brought five In- dians, and informed me that they had found two families,, where the women treated them with European politenefs. V ron\ thele people 1 learned, that the governor refided at a
place.
232
A VOYAGE TO
place called Coupang, which was fome diflance to the N E. I made figns for one of them to go in the boat, and fhow lis the way to Coupang, intimating that I would pay him for his trouble : the man readily complied, and came into the boat.
Thefe people were of a dark tawny colour, had long black hair, and chewed a great deal of beetle. Their drefs was, a fquare piece of cloth round the hips, in the folds of which was ftuck a large knife ; a handkerchief wrapped round the head ; and another hanging by the four corners from the llioulders, which ferved as a bag for their beetle equi- page. They brought us a few pieces of dried turtle, and fome ears of Indian corn. This laft was the moft welcome ; for the turtle was fo hard, that it could not be eaten with- out being firft foaked in hot water. They offered to bring lis fome other refrefliments if I would wait ; but, as the pilot was willing, I determined to pufh on. It was about half an hour paft four when we failed.
By dire6tion of the pilot, we kept clofe to the eaft Ihore under all our fail ; but as night came on, the wind died away, and we were obliged to try at the oars, which I was furprifed to fee we could ufe with fome effedt. At ten o'clock, finding we advanced but flowly, I came to a grap-
■ nel, and for the firft time, I iffued double allowance of bread and a little wine to each perfon. Sunday M. Sunday the 14th. At one o'clock In the morning, after
the moft happy and fweet fleep that ever men enjoyed, we weighed, and continued to keep the eaft ftiore on board, in very fmooth water; when at laft 1 found we were again open to the fea; the whole of the land to the weft ward, that we had paiTed, being an illand, which the pilot called Pulo
. Samow. The northern entrance of this channel is about a
mile
T H E S O U T H S E A S, &c. 233
mile and a half or two miles wide, and I had no ground at ten fathoms.
The report of two cannon that were fired, gave new life to every one; and foon after we difcoveiied two fquare- rigged veffels and a cutter at anchor to the eaftward. We endeavoured to work to windward, but were obliged to take to our oars again, having loft ground on each tack. We kept clofe to the fliore, and continued rowing till four o'clock, when I brought to a grapnel, and gave another al- lowance of bread and wine to all hands. As foon as we had refted a little, \ye weighed again, and rowed till near day- light, when we came to a grapnel, off a fmallfort and town, which the pilot told me was Conpang.
Among the things which the boatfwain had thrown into the boat before we left the ftiip, was a bundle of fignal flags that had been ufed by the boats to Ihow the depth of water in founding : with thefe we had, in the courfe of the paffage, made a fmall jack, which I now hoifted in the main flirouds, as a fignal of diftrefs ; for I did not think proper to land without leave.
Soon after day-break, a foldier hailed us to land, which I immediately did, among a crowd of Indinns, and was agree- ably furprifed to meet with an Englifh fiiilor, who belonged to one of the veffels in the road. His captain, he told mc, was the fecond perfon in the town ; I therefore defired to be conduded to him, as I was informed the governor was ill, and could not then be fpoken with.
Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed him of our diftreffed fituation ; and requefted that care might be taken of thole who were wi.li me, without delay. On which he gave diredions for their immediate reception at his own houfe, and wont himfelf to
n h the
a34 AVOYAGETO
the governor, to know at what time I could be permitted to fee him ; which was fixed to be at eleven o'clock.
I now defired my people to come on fhore, which was as much as fome ef them could do, being fcarce able to walk : they, however. Were helped to the houfe, and found tea with bread and butter provided for their breakfaft.
The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could feldom have been difplayed to more advantage, than in the delineation of the two groups of figures, which at this time prefented themfelves to each other. An indifferent fpedlator would have been at a lofs which moft to admire ; the eyes of fa- mine fparkling at immediate relief, or the horror of their prefervers at the fight of fo many fpe6tres, whofe ghaftly countenances, if the caufe had been unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies were nothing but Ikin and bones, our limbs were full of fores, and we were clothed in rags : in this condition, with the tears of joy and gratitude flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor beheld us with a mixture of horror, furprife, and pity.
The governor, Mr. William Adrian Van Efte, notwith-
ftanding extreme ill-health, became fo anxious about us,
that I law him before the appointed time. He received me
with great affe^lion, and gave me the fulleft proofs that he
was polfelfed of every feeling of a humane and good mam
Sorry as he was, he faid, that fuch a calamity could ever
have happened to us, yet he confidered it as the greateft
bleffing of his life that we had fallen under his protecSlion ;
and, though his infirmity. was fo great that he could not do
the office of a friend himfelf, he would give fi;ch orders
as I might be certain would procure us every fupply
we wanted. A houfe (liould be immediately prepared for 8 me,
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c.
me, and, with refpccft to my people, he laid, that I miq;ht have room for them either at the hofpital or on board of captain Spikerman's fliip, which lay in the road ; and he exprefled much uneafmefs that Coiipang ^could not afford them better accommodations, the houfe alTigned to me being the only one uninhabited, and the fituation of the few families that lived at this place fuch, that they could not conveniently receive ftrangers. For the prefent, till matters could be properly regulated, he gave dire<5\ions that vic- tuals for my people fliould be dreffed at his own houfe.
On returning to Captain Spikerman's houfe, I found that every kind relief had been given to my people. The furgeon had dreffed their fores, and the cleaning of their perfons had not been lefs attended to, feveral friendly gifts of ap- parel having been prefented to them.
. I defired to be fhewn to the houfe that was intended for me, which I found ready, with fervants to attend. It confifted of a hall, with a room at each end, and a loft over-head ; and was furrounded by a piazza, with an outer apartment in one corner, and a communication from the back part of the houfe to the flreet. I therefore deter- mined, inftead of feparating from my people, to lodge them all with me ; and I divided the houfe as follows : One room 1 took to myfelf, the other I allotted to the maimer, furgeon, Mr. Nelfon, and the gunner ; the loft to the other officers ; and the outer apartment to the men. The hall was com- mon to the officers, and the men had the back piazza. Of this difpofition I informed the governor, and he fcnt down chairs, tables, and benches, with bedding and other necef- faries for the ufe of every one. ,
The governor, when I took my leave, had defired me to acquaint him with every thing of which I ftood in need ;
H h 2 but
235
.^36 A V O Y A G E T O
but it was only at particular times that he had a few mo- ments of eafe, or could attend to any thing ; being in a dying flate, with an incurable difeafe. On this ac- count, I tranfadled whatever bufinefs I had, with Mr, Timotheus Wanjon, the lecond of this place, who was the governor's fon-in-law ; and who alfo contributed every- thing in his power to make our lituation comfortable. I had been, therefore, mifinformed by the feaman, who told me that captain Spikerman was the next perfon in com- mand to the governor.
At noon, a dinner was brought to the houfe, fufficiently good to make perfons, more accuftomed to plenty, eat too much. Yet I believe few in fuch a iituation would have obferved more moderation than my people did. My greateft apprehenfion was, that they would eat too much fruit, of which there was great variety in feafon at this time.
Having feen every one enjoy this meal of plenty, I dined myfelf with Mr. Wanjon ; but I felt no extraordinary in- clination to eat or drink. Refl and quiet, I conildered, as more necelTary to the re-eftablifliment of my health, and therefore retired foon to my room, which I found furnifhed with every convenience. But, inftead of refl, my mind was difpofed to reflecSl on our late fufferings, and on the failure of the expedition ; but, above all, on the thanks due to Almighty God, who had given us power to fupport and bear fuch heavy calamities, and had enabled me at laft, to be the means of faving eighteen lives.
In times of difficulty, there will generally arife circum- ftances that bear particularly hard on a commander. In our late lituation, it was not the leaft of my diftrelTes, to be conftantly affailed with the melancholy demands of my people for an increafe of allowance, which it grieved me
ta
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 237
to refufe. The neceflity of obf^rving the moft rigiil oeconomy in the diftribution of our provifions, was fo evi- dent, that I reHlled their felicitations, and never deviated froin the agreement we maile at fctting out. The confe- quence of this care was, that at our arrival we had ftill re- maining fuflicicnt for eleven days, at our fcanty allowance ^ and if we had been i'o unfortunate as to have milled the Dutch fettlement at Timor, we could have proceeded to Java, where I was certain that every fupply we wanted could be procured.
Another difagreeable circumftance, to which my fitua- tion cxpofed me, was the caprice of ignorant people. Had I been incapable of adling, they would have carried the boat on fliore as foon as we made the iiland of Timor, without conlidering that landing among the natives, at a diftance from the European fettlement, might have been as dangerous as among any other Indians.
The quantity of provifions with which we left the fliip, was not more than we fhould have confumed in five days, had there been no necefTity for hufbanding our ftock. The mutineers muft naturally have concli;^led, that wc could have no other i)lace of refuge than the Friendly Iflands; for it was not likely they fliould imagine, that, fo poorlv equipped as we were in every refpecfl, there could have been a poflibility of our attempting to return home- wards : much lefs can they fufpedt that the account of their viUany has already reached their native country.
When 1 refltd: how providentially our lives were faved at Tofoa, by the Indians delaying their attack ; and that, with fcarce any thing to fupport life, we crofle 1 a fea of more than 1200 leagues, without fhelter from the incle- mency of the v/cather ; when I reiicvft that in an open: ■■'' bcat^
238 AVOYAGETO*
boat, with fo much ftorray weather, we efcaped founderhig, that not any of us were taken off by difeafe, that we had the great good fortune to pafs the unfriendly natives of other countries without accident, and at laft happily to meet with the moft friendly and heft of people to relieve our diftreffes ; I fay, when I reflet: on all thefe wonder- ful efcapes, the remembrance of fuch great mercies en- ables me to bear, w^ith refignation and chearfulnefs, the failure of an expedition, the fuccefs of which I had fo much at heart, and which was fruftrated at a time when I was congratulating myfelf on the faireft profpe6t of being able to complete it in a manner that would fully have an- fwered the intention of his Majefty, and the humane pro- moters of fo benevolent a plan.
With refpe6l to the prefervation of our health, during a courfe of i6 days of heavy and almoft continual rain, I would recommend to every one in a fimilar fituation, the method we prailifed, which is, to dip their clothes in the falt-water, and wring them out, as often as they become filled with rain : it was the only refource we had, and I be- lieve was of the greateft fervice to us, for it felt more like a change of dry clothes than could well be imagined. We had occafion to do this fo often, that at length all our clothes were wrung to pieces : for, except the few days we pafTed on the coaft of New Holland, we were continually wet either with rain or fea.
Thus, through the afliftance of Divine Providence, we furmounted the difficulties and diftreffes of a moft perilous voyage, and arrived fafe in an hofpitable port, where every neceffary and comfort were adminiftered to us with a moft liberal hand.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 259
CHAP. XVIIL
At Coupang.
FROM the great humanity and attention of the gover- nor, and the gentlemen, at Coupang, we received every kind of afliftance, and were not long without evi- dent figns of returning health. Shortly after our arrival, I prefented to the governor, a formal account of the lofs of the Bounty; and a requifition, in his Majefty's name, that inftrudions might be fent to all the Dutch fettlements, to iiop the fliip if flie made her appearance. With this, a complete defcriptive lift of the mutineers was given,
I likewife requefted, in one of my firft vilits to the go- vernor, that Nelfon might have permillion to walk about the country in fearch of plants, which was readily grant- ed, with an offer of whatever afliftance I fliould think ne- cefTary: and the governor affured me that the country was well worth examination, as it abounded with many curious and medicinal plants. From this indulgence I derived no benefit; for Nelfon, who fince we left New Holland, had been but in a weak condition, about this time was taken ill, in confequence of a cold caufed by imprudently leaving off warm clothing.
To fecure our arrival at Batavin, before the October fleet failed for Exirope, 1 gave public notice of my intention to hire a vcHel to carry us to Batavia. In confequence of
this
Timor.
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 259
CHAP. XVIIL
At Coupang.
FROM the great humanity and attention of the gover- nor, and the gentlemen, at Coupang, we received every kind of afliftance, and were not long without evi- dent figns of returning health. Shortly after our arrival, I prefented to the governor, a formal account of the lofs of the Bounty ; and a requilition, in his Majefty's name, that inftru(flions might be fent to all the Dutch fettlements, to Hop the fliip if flie made her appearance. With this, a complete defcriptive lift of the mutineers was given.
I likewife requefted, in one of my firft viiits to the go- vernor, that Nelfon might have permiffion to walk about the country in fearch of plants, which was readily grant- ed, with an offer of whatever afliftance I fliould think ne- cefTary: and the governor affured me that the country was well worth examination, as it abounded with many curious and medicinal plants. From this indulgence I derived no benefit ; for Nelfon, who fince we left New Holland, had been but in a weak condition, about this time was taken ill, in confequence of a cold caufed by imprudently leaving off warm clothing.
To fecure our arrival at Batavia, before the October fleet failed for Europe, I gave public notice of my intention to hire a veflel to carry us to Batavia. h\ confequence of
this
Timor.
240 AVOYAGETO
'789- this notice, feveral offers were made, but none that I thought *» — .——J reafonable ; which determined me to purchafe a fmall fchooner in the road, that was 34 feet long ; for which I gave 1000 rix-dollars, and fitted her for fea, under the name of His Majefty's fchooner Refource. As the coafl of Java is frequently infefled with fmall piratical velfels, it was neceffary that we fliould be provided with the proper means of defence. In this 1 was affifted by the friendfliip of Mr. Wanjon, who fupplied me with four brafs fwivels, 14 ftand of fmall arras, and ammunition, which he obligingly let me have as a loan, to be returned at Batavia. July 20. On the 20th of July, I had the misfortune to lofe Mr.
David Nelfon: he died of an inflammatory fever. The lofs of this honefl man I very much lamented : he had, with great care and diligence, attended to the objed: for which he was fent, and had always been ready to forward every plan that was propofed, for the good of the fervice in which we were engaged. He was not lefs ufeful in our voyage hither, in the courfe of which he gave me great fatisfacSiion, by the patience and fortitude with which he conducled himfelf. July 21. July 21ft, This day, I was employed attending the fu-
neral of Mr. Nelfon. The corpfe was carried by twelve foldiers dreit in bla^k, preceded by the minilter ; next fol- lowed myfelf and the fecond governor ; then ten gentlemen of the town and the officers of the fliips in the harbour; and after them my own officers and people.
After reading our biuial-fervice, the body was interred behind the chapel, in the burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans of the town. I was forry 1 could get no tombrtone to place over his remains.
This
T H E S O U T H S E A S, Sec. 241
This was the fecond voyage Mr. Nelfon had undertake a to the South Seas, having been lent out by Sir Jollph Banks, to colletfl plants, feeds. Sec. in Captain Cook's laft voyage. And now, after furmounting {b many difficulties, and in the midll of thankfuhiefs for his deUverance, he was called upon to pay the debt of nature, at a time leaft expedled.
Our fchooner being vidtualled and ready for feaj on the 20th of Augufi:, I took an afFe<5lionate leave of the hofpi- Auguft lo. table and friendly inhabitants of Coupang, and embarked. In the afternoon we failed, having the launch, which had fo much contributed to our prefervation, in tow. We ex- changed falutes with the fort and fliipping as we ran out of the harbour.
The town of Coupang is fituated in a great bay, which is an excellent road for fliipping. The latitude of the town is 10° 12' S. According to the Dutch charts, it is in 121° 51' E longitude. Taking the mean between the longitude by my reckoning on our arrival at Coupang, and the longitude af- terwards calculated from our run to Batavia, gives me for the longitude of Coupang 124° 41' E.
This fettlement was formed in the year 1630, and is the only one the Dutch have on the illand Timor. They have refidents in different parts of the country. On the north fide of Timor, there is a Portuguefe fettlement. The pro- duce of the ill and is chiefly fandal wood and bees wax : the former article is now fcarce. Wax they have in great plenty. The bees build their nefts in bullies, and in the boughs of trees, to which the natives cannot approach but with lire. The honey is put into jars, and the wax is run into blocks of three feet in length, and from 12 to 15 inches fqnare. The natives, at leaft thofe who live in the ncighbour-
I i hood
1242 AVOYAGfiTO
hood of Cotipang, are of a very indolent difpofition, of which the Chinefe have taken advantage ; for though the Malays are very fond of traffic, moft of their trade is carried on in fmall Chinefe veffels, of from lo to 30 tons burthen. There is a market at Coupang for the country people, in which, however, there is little bufinefs done. I have feen a man from the country, come to market with two potatoes : and this is not unufual. Thefe being fold for two doits (equal to a halfpenny Englifli) ferve to fupply him with beetle to chew; and the remainder of the day is paffed in lounging about the town. The inland people, who live at a diftance from the Europeans, are ftrong and a<Slive; but their want of cleanlinefs, fubjecSts them to filthy difeafes.
The chief of the natives, or king of the ifland, is by the Dutch ftiled Keyfer (Emperor.) This prince lives at a place called Backennaffy, about four miles diftant from Coupang. His authority over the natives is not wholly un- difputed ; which is by the Dutch attributed to the intrigues of the Portuguefe, who aie on the north part of Timor. The ifland has lately fuffered much by a competition be- tween the prefent king and one of his nephews, which caufed a civil war, that lafted from the beginning of the year .1786 to 1788, when their differences were fettled by a treaty, chiefly in favour of the king. The ravages com- mitted in thefe difputes, have occafioned a fcarcity of pro- vifions, that probably, from the want of induftry in the natives, will not foon be remedied. I had an opportunity of making a vilit to the king. His dwelling was a large houfe, which was divided into only three apartments, and furrounded by a piazza : agreeably fituated, but very dirty, as was all the furniture. The king, who is an eldedy
man,
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8:c.
Hi
man, received me with much civility, and ordered rcfrefli- ,78,. ments to be fet before me, which were tea, rice cakes, ^ Auomr. roalled Indian corn, and dried bufTalo flcfli, with about a pint of arrack, which I beheve was all he had. His drcfs was, a cheque wrapper girded round his waifl: with a filk and gold belt, a loofe linen jacket, and a coarfe handker- chief about his head. A few of his chiefs were with him, who partook of our rcpaft; after which, the king retired with three of them for a fliort time, and when he returned, prefented me with a round plate of metal, about four inches diameter, on wdiich was ftamped the figure of a ftar. As I had been informed that arrack would be an acceptable pre- fent, I was prepared to make a return, which was well re- ceived. They never dilute their liquor, and, from habit, are able to drink a large quantity of fpirits at a time, with- out being intoxicated.
When a king dies, a large feaft is made, to which all the inhabitants are invited. The body, after a few days, is put into a coffin, w hich is clofed up and kept three years before it is interred.
The Dutch have been at fome pains to eflablifh Chrif- tianity among the natives: but it has not gained much ground, except in the neighbourhood of Coupang. The prefent king was chriftened by the name of Barnardus. His Indian name is Baccbee Bannock. The fcriptures are tranf- lated into the Malay language, and prayers are performed, in the church at Coupang, by a Malay clergyman, in that language.
• I met, at Timor, with moft of the fruits that are dcfcribed in Captain Cook's firft voyage, as natives of Batavia, ex- cept the Mangoftan. The bread-fruit tree, called by the Malays Soccoom, likewife grows here with great luxuriance, and appears to be as much a native of this illand as it is of
I i 2 Otaheite.
244
A VOYAGE TO
Otaheite. The fruit is exadtly of the fame kind, but not fo good. A bread-fruit of Timor, weighs half as much more as one of equal lize at Otaheite. It is not ufed here as bread, but generally eaten with milk and fugar. At Backen- naffy I faw about twenty of the trees, larger than any I have feen at Otaheite. Here is alfo a fort of bread-fruit tree, that produces feeds, not unlike Windfor beans, and equally palatable, either boiled or roafted. No other part of the fruit is eatable ; and though the tree, I am told, is to all ap- pearailce the fame as the other, the fruits have but little re- femblance ; the fruit of this being covered with projecting points, nearly half an inch in length.
I received a prefent of fome fine plants, from the gover- nor, which I was afterwards unfortunately obliged tq leave . at Batavia, for want of proper room to take care of them, in the packet by which I returned to Europe. Mr. Wan- jon likewife favoured me with fome feeds for his Ma- jefty's garden at Kew, which I had the good fortune to deliver fafe, on my return : and fome of the mountain rice, cultivated at Timor, on the dry land, which was forwarded to his Majelly's botanic garden at St. Vincent, and to other parts in the Weft Indies.
A refemblance of language between the people of the South Sea iflands, and the inhabitants of many of the iflands in the Eaft Indies, has been remarked in Captain Cook's firft voyage. Here, the refemblance appeared Itronger than has yet been noticed; particularly in cheir numerals. But belides the language, I obferved fome cuftoms among the people of Timor, ftill more ftrikingj for their limilarity. They practife the Tooge-tooge * of
* The Totgc-tooge is deferibed in Captain Cook's laft voynge. Vol. L page 323,; and the Roomecj in the fame voyage. Vol. II. page 64.
the
T II E S O U T FI S E A S, 8cc. 245
the Friendly Iflands, which they c^ll Toomlfoc/: : and the 17S9. Roomee of Otuheite, which they call Ramas. I hkewife ^"'="'^- faw, placed on their graves, oiferings of bafkets with to- bacco and beetle.
I left the governor, Mr. Van Efte, at the point of death. To this gentleman our moft grateful thanks are due, for the humane and friendly treatment that we re- ceived from him. His ill ftate of health only prevented him from fliowing us more particular marks of attention. Unhappily, it is to his memory only that I now pay this tribute. It was a fortunate circumftance for us, that Mr. Wanjon, the next in place to the governor, was equally humane and ready to relieve us. His attention was unremitting, and, when there was a doubt aboi^t fup- plying me with money, to enable me to purchafe a vefTel, he chearfully took it upon himfelf ; without which, it was evident, I fliould have been too late at Batavia to have failed for Europe with the 0<5lober fleet. I can only return fuch fervices by ever retaining a grateful remembrance of them.
Mr. Max, the town furgeon, likewife behaved to us with the moft difinterefted himianity : he attended every one with the utmoft care ; for which I could not prevail on him to receive any payment, or to render me any account, oc other anfwer, than that it was his duty.
CHAP.
2t46 A V O Y A G E T O
CHAP. XIX.
From Timor to Batavia^
hJovlr. IT* R- O M Coupang, we fleered N W by W, having a mode-
^ — V— ' X rate breeze at S E with fair weather.
Jatuxday 2°'. SatuMay the 22d. At day-hght, we faw the ifland Flores to the northward. At noon, latitude obferved 9° 27' S, and longitude by account, from Coupang, 2° 10' W. Our dif- tance from the coaft of Flores was about 10 leagues ; and two high peaked mountains bore N j E and N N W. Thefe two mountains referable each other in fhape, and the wefternmoft is a volcano. The interior parts of Flores are mountainous and woody: but near the fea-coaft is a fine open country, A Dutch map, with which I was pro- vided, places the fouth part of Flores in 9° 3' S, which I am of opinion is too far fouth. We fleered along the fouth fide of Flores, moftly with light winds and hazy weather, fo that we did not conftantly keep fight of the coaft.
Tuefday ^5. Tucfday the 25th. At noon, we were off Toorns ifland, which bore N W by N, three or four leagues diftant. Our latitude obferved, was 8° 57' S, and longitude made by dead reckoning from Coupang, 3° 27' W. Toorns ifland is about four leagues in circuit, and has a craggy and uneven appearance. There is a curious high peak on the S W part: the land ne ar the fliore is low and woody,
S ' On
T H E S O U T PI S E A S, 8cc. 247
On the 27th, at noon, we were near the entrance of the 1789. Straits of Mangaryn, which not appearing fo open and . ^°"'J[) clear as reprerentcd in the map, I fleered for the Straits Thurfdayz/. of Sapi, intending to pafs through ; but was obHged to give up this plan, by ftrong currents fetting to the S E, which there was not fufTicient wind to enable us to Item. I therefore again ftood for the Straits of Mangaryn, which we ran through in the afternoon of the 29th, being saturiiy 29. favoured with a frefli breeze from the SS E. On our firft entering the ft raits, we got clofe to the Florcs Ihore : our courfe through was N i E. We tried for foundings, hut could not any where find bottom at 25 and 30 fathoms depth. On the Flores fide, there are many good harbours and bays, where veflTels may anchor ; but the country here- abouts appears burnt up and defolate.
I had no azimuth-compafs, and confequently could not obferve very accurately the variation ; but I believe there is fo little in Mangaryn Straits, that no great error will be occafioned by confidering the true and magnetic bearings to be the fame.
When we had paffed the ftraits, we kept to the weft- ward, running along the north fide of the illand Sumbawa, where there is a very high mountain near the coaft ; at the foot of which, I am informed, are many runs of good water, conveniently fituated for fliips to fupply themfelves. The latitude of the north part of Sumbawa I make, by my obfer- vations and bearings, to be 8"^ 6' S, which differs very little from the Dutch charts.
In the night of the 31ft, feveral prows were rowing about Monday 31, us, on which account, we kept all night under arms.
Thurfday the 3d. This and the two following days, we septsm- were failing along the north fide of the iftand Lombock, on xhJfdav
which
248 - A V O Y A G E T O
which is a high mountain. Moft of the iflands in this route are diilinguiflied by high mountains. Lombock appears to be well clothed with wood. In the nights, we faw fires upon the high lands, at a diflance from the coaft. Sunday 6. Sunday the 6th. hi the afternoon, we faw the high land
of Cape Sandana, which is the NE part of Java. Monfiay 7. The ucxt day, we were off Cape Sandana, which is a low , cape, projecting from the high land already mentioned. This cape is placed by the Dutch maps in 7° 52' S. But ac- cording to my obfervation, and our eftimated diftance from the land, I make it in 7° 46' S latitude. The longitude, by my dead reckoning, from Coupang to Cape Sandana, was 11° 33' W.
We fteered to the wellward, along the coaft of Java; Tharfday 10. and on the loth, at noon, we anchored off Paffourwang, a Dutch fettlement on the coaft of Java, in two fathoms ; diftant from the fliore half a league ; the entrance of the river bearing S W. The coaft hereabouts is fo Ihoal, that large fliips are obliged to anchor three or four miles from the land. As foon as we were at anchor, I got in my boat and went on fliore. The banks of the river, near the entrance, were mud, on which grew a few man- grove buflies. Among them we faw hogs running, and many were laying dead in the mud, which caufed a moft intolerable ftench and made me heartily repent having come here ; but after proceeding about a mile up the river, the courfe of which was Terpentine, we found a '■ very pleafant country, and landed at a fmall and well- conftru<3:ed fort ; where I was received in a friendly and polite manner by M. Adrian Van Rye, the commandant. By the return of the boat, I fent on board a fmall bul- Jock, and other provifions. I like wife took a pilot to con- dia<3: us to Sourabya.
The
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 249
The hoiifes at PafTourwang are neatly built, and the 1789. country appears to be well cultivated. The produce of this 'ber "' fettlement is rice, of which they export large quantities. ^ — v— » There are but few Dutch here : the Javancfc are nume- rous, and their chief lives with conliderable fplendour. They have good roads, and ports arc eftablilhed along the coaft ; and it appears to be a bufy and well-regulated fettle- ment. Latitude 7° 36' S. Longitude 1° 44' W of Gape San- dana.
The next day, about noon, we failed ; and on the 12th, in Friday n. the evening, anchored in Sourabya road, in feven fathoms : ''"""'^^y "• the flag-ftaff bearing S i W ; diftance from the fliore one mile. We found riding here, feven fquare-rigged, and feveral fmaller veffels.
It was too late, when we anchored, to fend a boat on ihore. The next morning, before day-light, three guard- Sunday i}. boats ftationed themfelves near us, and I was informed, that I muft not land or fend a boat on Ihore. This re- ftri6lion, I learnt from the officer of the guard-boats, was in conformity to general orders concerning all flrange vef- fels on their firft arrival. At nine in the forenoon, leave came off for us to land, and foon after the guard-boats quitted us.
I was received on fhore with great civility and friendihip by the governor, or Opperhooft, M. Ant. Barkay, and the commandant of the troops, M. de Bofe. By thefe gentle- men I was hofpitably entertained, and advifed to remain till the i6th, when fome velTels were to fail, with whom I might keep company, which they recommended on account of pirates.
Sourabya is one of the moft pleafant places I ever faw. it is lituated on the banks of a river, and is a mile and a
Kk half
S150
A VOYAGE TO
1789. half diftant from the fe9,-lliore, £0 that only the flag-ftafF can ^"Jr"" be feen from the road. The river is navigable up to the *-" .-»~ ~J town for velTels of 100 tons burthen, and the bank on one iide is made convenient for tracking. The Chinefe carry- on a conliderable trade here? and have a town or camp on the iide of the river oppoJdte to Sourabya. The country near the town is fiat, and the foil light, fo that they plow with a fingle bullock or buffalo, (Kcirrabozv). The inte- rior parts of the country, near the mountains, are infefted with a breed of fierce tygers, which makes travelling inland very dangerous. They have here a breed of horfes, which are fmall, but they are handfome and ftrong.
The Javanefe in this neighbourhood are numerous. M. Barkay and M. de Bofe took me with them to pay a vilit to two of the principal natives, whom we found attended by a number of men armed with pikes, in great military order. We were entertained with a concert of mufic ; the inftru- raents were gongs, drums, and a fiddle with two firings. I hired a pilot here to carry vis to Batavia. Our latitude ob- ferved in Sourabya road was 7° 1 1' S. Longitude made from Ga^e Sandana 1° 52" W. Thurfdayiy. On the lyth, we failed from Sourabya, in company with three prows. At noon, we anchored at Crifley, which is a town with a fmall fort, belonging to the Dutch. We remained here about two hours, and then weighed. Latitude of C rifle y 7° 9' S. Longitude from Gape Sandana, i°55'W.
The navigation through the Straits of Madura is fo in- tricate, that, with the little opportunity I had, I am unable to undertake a defcription of it. The next day, (September Friday i8. i8th) having pafled the ftraits, we bore away to the well- ward, along the coaft of Java, in company with the prows
before
THE SOUTH SEAS, fcc. 251
before mentioned. Wc had regular Immdings all the way ,789. to Samarang, off which place we anchored on the iid in the ^^H^**' afternoon ; the church bearing S E ; dirtancc froii-» the fliore «— — >'-— ■ half a league : depth of water two fathonns. The flioalnefs Tuefdaysj. of the coaft here, makes the road of Samarang very inconve- nient, both on account of the great diftance that large fl-iips (of which there were feveral in the road) are obliged to lay from the lliore, and of the landing, which h in a river that cannot be entered before half-flood. This river refembles the one at Paflburwang, the fliores being low, with oifenfive dead animals laying about. I was met at the landing-place by the equipage-mafter, and he furniflied me with a car- riage to carry me to the governor, whofe refidcnce is about two miles from the town of Samarang. I requefted, and obtained leave to have our wants fupplied, w^hich were, to recruit our proviflons, and to get a new main-maft, having fprung ours in the paffage from Sourabya.
Samarang is a fortified town, furrounded by a wall and ditch; and is the moft confiderable fettlement, next to Ba- tavia, that the Dutch have in Java. Here is a very good hofpital, and a public fchool, chiefly for teaching the mathematics. They have likewife a theatre. Provifions are remarkably cheap here, beef being at ten doits per pound, and the price of a fowl 12 doits.
I experienced great civility from fome of the gentlemen at Samarang, particularly from M. Le Baron de Bofe, a merchant, brother to the M. de Bofe, commandant of the troops at Sourabya: and from M. Abegg, the furgeon of the hofpital, to whom we were indebted for advice and me- dicines, for which he would not confcnt to receive pay- ment.
K k z The
252 A VOYAGE TO
The latitude of Samarang is 6° 57' S. Longitude, by my
reckoning, from Cape Sandana, 4° 7' W. ^;^^^^Xy^, On the 26th, we failed from Samarang ; and with us, a
galley mounting fix fwivels, which the governor had di-
redted to accompany us to Batavia. October. On the ill of Odtobcr we anchored in Batavia road, where Thurfday i. ^^^ found riding, a Dutch fliip of war, and 20 fail of Dutch
Eaft India fhips, befides many fmaller veflels.
CHAP.
THE SOUTH SEAS, S:c. 253
CHAP. XX.
Occurrences at Baiavia, andFaJfage thence to England.
IN the afternoon, at four o'clock, I went on fhore, and 1789. landed at a houfe by the river, where ftrangers firft flop ^^^""'•' and give an account who they are, whence they came, &:c. From this place, a Malay gentleman took me in a carriage to the Sabandar, Mr. Englehard, whofe houfe was in the environs of the city, on the fide neareft the fliip- ping. The Sabandar is the officer with whom all ftran- gers are obliged to tranfadl their biifinefs : at leaft, the whole muft go through his hands. With him, I went to pay my refpeits to the governor-general, who received me with great civility. I acquainted his excellency with my iituation, and requefted my people might be taken care of, and that we fliould be allowed to take a paflage to Europe in the firft Ihip that failed. I likewife defired permiffion to fell the fchooner and launch. All this his excellency told me fliould be granted. I then took leave, and returned with the Sabandar, who wrote down the particulars of my wants, in order to form from them a regular petition, to be prefented to the council the next day. I had brought from the governor of Coupang, direifled for the governor-gene- ral at Batavia, the account of my voyage and misforturte, tranflated into Dutch, from an account that I had given
to
%S4 A VOYAGE TO
1789. to Mr. Van Efle. So attentive had they been at Timor to
October. , . , , ,
^^ - - . every thuig that related to us.
There is a large hotel at Batavia, fitted up purpofely for the accommodation of ftrangers, who are not allowed to refide at any other place. It is lituated near the great river, in a part of the city that is reckoned the moft airy and healthy. Neverthelefs, I found the air hot and fufFo- cating, and was taken ill in the night with a violent pain Friday 2. jn my head. The next morning, at nine, the council fat, and I attended, accompanied by the Sabandar ; and was in- formed that the council had complied with all I had re- quefted.
When I returned to the hotel, my head-ach increafedy and a violent fever came on. I fent to acquaint the Saban- dar of my fituation, and was foon after attended by the head furgeon of the town hofpital, Mr. Aanforp; by whofe care and ficill, in lefs than 24 hours, the fever confiderably abated, but a fevere head-ach continued. I had an invita- tion from the governor-general to dine with him ; which, of Gourfe, I was obliged to decline.
I hired a carriage, which coft three dollars per day, for the benefit of taking an airing. My lodgings at the hotel were fo clofe and hot, that I defired the Sabandar to apply to the Governor General, for leave to hire a houfe in the country ; which requefl his excellency not only immediately complied with, but gave diredlions for my being accommodated at the houfe of the phyfician or furgeon-general, Mr. Sparling.
One of my people, Thomas Hall, being ill with a flux, I
obtained leave for him to be fent to the country hofpital,
which is a convenient airy building.
TucfJay 6 Tucfday the 6th. This morning, at fun-rife, I left the
hotel,, and was carried to Mr. Sparling^s houfe, about four
4 - miles
THE SOUTH SEAS, Sec. 255
miles diftant from the city, and near the convalcfcent hof- 1789. pital, which at this time had alio lick men in it, the whole ^_'^1°!,''^ number of patients amounting to 800. I found every thing prepared for my comfort and convenience. Mr. Sparhng would fufter me to take no medicine, though I had flill confiderable fever with head-ach : but I found fo much relief from the difference of the air, that in the even- ing I was able to accompany Mr. Sparling on a vilit to the governor-general, at one of his country feats; where we found many ladies, all drefTed in the Malay fafhion, fome of them richly ornamented with jewels. 1 had invitations from feveral gentlemen, and fome very kindly prelTcd me to make their country houfes my abode, till my health fliould be re-eftablifhed.
My indifpofition increafing, Mr. Sparling advifed me ThuWdays. to quit Batavia as fpeedily as poflible, and reprefented the neceffity of it to the governor-general. I was informed from his excellency, that the homeward-bound fhips were fo miich crowded, that there would be no poflibility of all my people going in one fliip, and that they could be accom- modated no other way than by dividing them into different fhips. Seeing, therefore, that a feparation was unavoid- able, I determined to follow the advice of the phylician, and, as a packet was appointed to fail for Europe on the i6th inftant, I fent to requeft of the governor that I might be allowed to take a paffage in her for myfelf, and as many of my people as they were able to receive. In anfwer to this, I was acquainted that myfelf and two more could be accommodated in the packet, (he being too fmall to ad- mit a greater number; but that I might reft affured of paf- fages being provided for thofe that remained, by the earlieft opp^^rtunities.
Friday
256 AVOYAGETO
1789- Friday the 9th, This clay, anchored in the road, the
^ cTOB^ER, Qgj|gj.aj Elliot, an Englilli fhip, commanded by Captain Friday g. Lloyd. In the Straits of Banca, he had met with fome boats belonging to the Eaft India Company's Ihip Van- iittart, that was loft in the Straits of Billaton, by having iiruck on a rock that went through her bottom. Captain Wilfon, who commanded the Vanfittart, I was informed, had juft finiflied a furvey of thofe Straits, and was hoifting his boat in, when the fhip ftruck. Immediately on receiv- ing the intelligence. Captain Lloyd, in the General Elliot, and another fliip in company, called the Nonfuch, failed for the wreck. They found the fliip had been burnt down to the water's edge by the Malays. They however faved 40 chefts of treafure out of 55, which were faid to have been on board. Moft of the fliip's company were faved : one man only was loit in the Ihip, and five others in a fmall boat were miffing, who were fuppofed to have taken fome of the treafure. —The greater part of the people went with Captain Wilfon to China, and fome were with Captain Lloyd. Ssturdayio. Saturday the loth. This morning, the Refource was fold by public au6tion : the cuftom at Batavia, is to begin high, and to lower the price, till fome perfon bids ; and the firft bidder is the buyer. She was accordingly put up at 2000 rix-dollars, but, to my great difappointment, no one offered to purchafe before the au6lioneer had lowered the demand to 295 rix-dollars, for which price fhe was fold ; the pur- chafer being an Englifhman, Captain John Eddie, who commanded an Englifli fliip from Bengal. If no ftrangers had been prefent at the fale, I imagine they would have let her run down to 200 dollars, in which cafe I fliould have had no alternative.
The
T H E S O U T H S E A S, 8cc. 2.^7
The launch likewifc was fold. The fcrvices flic had ren- dered us, made mc feci great rcluvtlance at parting with her ; which I would not have done, if I coulil have found a con- venient opportunity of getting her conveyed to Europe.
Little as the Ichooner had fold for, I found I was in dan- ger of having the lum leflened ; for the S.ibandar informed me, that, by an order of the council, there was a duty on the fale of all veflcls. With this demand 1 would by no means comply ; for I thought I had fufliciently fufFcred, in fuftain- ing a lols of 705 rix-doUars out of 1000, by the purchafe and fale of the velfel, flic having coll 1000 rix-dollars.
This day, Thomas Hall, whom I had fent to be taken care of at the hofpital, died. He had been ill of a Hux from the time of our arrival at Timor.
I agreed with the captain of the packet for a paflage to Monday i; Europe, for myfelf, my clerk, and a fervant. The Sa- bandar informed me, it was neceffary that my officers and people flioulcT be examined before a notary, refpeding the lofs of the Bounty, as otherwife the governor and coun- cil were not legally authorized to detain her, if flie fliould be found in any of the Dutch fettlements. They were therefore, at my defire, examined ; and afterwards made affidavit before the governor and council at the Stadt- houfe.
My officers complaining to me of the luireafonablenefs of fome tradefmen's bills, I fpoke to the Sabandar. A bdl of 51 dollars for five hats, he reduced to 30 dollars, and in other articles made proportionable dedudtions.
Paper money is the currency of Batavia, and is fo under- ftood in all bargains. At this time, paper was at 28 per cent difcount : there is likewife a difference in the value of the ducatoon, which at Batavia is 80 (livers, and in Hol- land only 63 ftivers : this occafions a lofs of 211 per cent, on
L 1 remittance
25^ AVOYAGETO
1789. remittance of money. It therefore follows, that if any perfon ^"°"''; at Batavia remits money by bills of exchange to Europe, they lofe by the difcount and the exchange 49 i per cent.
Thofe who have accounts to pay, and can give unexcep- tionable bills on Europe, will find a confiderable faving by negociating their bills with private people; who are glad to give for them a premium of 20 per cent, at the leaft. This difcovery, I made fomewhat too late to profit by.
One of the greateft difficulties that fl:rangers have to en- counter, is, their being obliged to live at the hotel. This hotel was formerly two houfes, which by doors of com- munication have been made one. It is in the middle of a range of buildings, more calculated for a cold country than for fuch a climate as Batavia. There is no free circulation of air, and what is equally bad, it is always very dirty; and there is great want of attendance. What they call cleaning the houfe, is another nuifance ; for they never ufe any water to cool it or to lay the dufi, but fweep daily with brooms, in fuch a manner, that thofe in the houfe are ' almoft fuffbcated by a cloud of duft.
The months of December and January are reckoned the moil unhealthy of the year, the heavy rains being then let
in. The account of the feafons, as given to me here, I
believe may be relied on.
The middle of November, the weft monfoon begins, and rain.
December and January. Continual rain with ftrong wefterly wind.
February. Wefterly wind. Towards the end of this month the rain begins to abate.
March. Intervals of fine weather. Wind wefterly. April. In this month the eaft monfoon begins. Wea- ther generally fine with lliowers of rain.
May.
THE SOUTH SEAS, 8cc. 259
May. Eafl: monfoon fixed. Showery. 1789.
June ami July. Clear weather. Strong eaftwmd. i"""*^
Auguft and September. Wind more moderate.
Odtober. hi this month, the wind begins to be variable, with lliowers of rain.
The current is faid always to run with the wind. Never- thelcls, I found the reverfc in fiiiling from Timor to Java. Between the end of Odlober and the beginning of the en- fuing year, no Dutch lliip bound for Europe is allowed to fail from Batavia, for fear of being near the Mauritius, at the time of the hurricanes, which are frequent there in December and January.
My illnefs prevented me from gaining much knowledge of Batavia. Of their public buildings, I faw nothing that gave me fo much fatisfa<5lion as their country hofpital for feamen. It is a large commodious and airy building, about foiir miles from the town, dofe to the fide of the river, or rather in the river : for the ground on which it flands has, by labour, been made an ifland of, and the fick are carried there in a boat : each ward is a feparate dwelling, and the different difeafes are properly claffed. They have fome- times 1400 patients in it : at this time there were 800, but more than half of thefe were recovered, and fit for fervice, of whom 300 were deftined for the fleet that was to fail for Europe. I went through raoft of the wards, and there appeared great care and attention. The filieets, bedding, and hnen, of the fick were perfectly neat and clean. The houfe of the phyfician, Mr. Sparling, who has the management of the hofpital> is at one extremity of the building : and here it was that I refided. To the attention and care of this gentleman, for which he woidd receive no payment, I am probably indebted for my life.
L 1 2 The
26o A VOYAGE TO
1789. The hofpital in the town is well attended ; but the fitu-
y_ l-^,J, ation is fo ill chofen, that it certainly wovild be the faving of many lives, to build one in its flead up the river ; which might be done with great advantage, as water carriage is fo eafy and convenient. A great neglect in fome of the commanders of the fhipping here, was, ftiffering their peo- ple to go dirty, and frequently without frock, fhirt, or any thing to cover their bodies; which, befldes being a public nuifance, mnft probably be produdlive of ill health in the moft robuft conftitution.
The governor-general gave me leave to lodge all my people at the country hofpital, which I thought a great advantage, and with which they were perfedlly fatisfied. The officers, however, at their own requeft, remained in the town.
The time fixed for the failing of the packet, approach- ing, I fettled my accounts with the Sabandar, leaving open the vi(5lualling account, to be clofed by Mr. Fryer, the mafter, previous to his departure ; who I likewife autho- rized to fupply the men and officers left under his com- raiand, with one month's pay, to enable them to purchafe clothing for their paflage to England.
I had been at great pains to bring living plants from Ti- mor, in fix tubs; which contained jacks, nancas, karambolas, uamnaras, jambos, and three thriving bread-fruit plants. Thefe I thought might be ferviceable at the Cape of Good Hope, if brought no farther : but I had the mortification of being obliged to leave them all at Batavia. I took thefe plants on board at Coupang, on the 20th of Augufl: : they had experienced a paflage of 42 days to my arrival here. The bread-fruit plants died to the root, and fpronted afrelh fron* thence. The karambolas, jacks, nancas, and nam- nams, I had raifed from the feed, and they were in fine
7 order.
THE SOUTH SEAS, &c. 261
order. No judgment can hence be formed of the fiicccfs of tranfporting plants, as in the prcfcnt trial, they had many difadvantages.
This morning, before fun-rife, I embarked on board the Friday 16. Vlydte packet, commanded by Captain Peter Couvret, bound for Middleburgh. With me likewife embarked Mr. John Samwell, clerk, and John Smith, feaman. Thofe of our company who rtaid behind, the governor promifcd me fliould follow in the firft fhips, and be as little di- vided as poffible. At 7 o'clock, the packet weighed, and
failed out of the road.
On the i8th, we fpoke the Rambler, an American brig, sunJay is, belonging to Bofton, bound to Batavia. After paffing the Straits of Sunda, we ileered to the north of the Cocos Ifles. Thefe illands. Captain Couvret informed me, are full of cocoa-nut trees : there is no anchorage near them, but good landing for boats. Their latitude 12° o' S. Longi- tude 96° 5' E.
In the paffage to the Cape of Good Hope, there occurred nothing worth remark. I cannot however forbear no- ticing the Dutch manner of navigating. They iieer by true compafs, or rather endeavour fo to tlo, by means of a fmall moveable central card, which they fet to the meri- dian : and whenever they difcover the v-nriation has altered 2f degrees, fince the laft adjuftment, they again correcl the central card. This is fleering within a quarter of a point, without aiming at greater exadnefs. The officer of the watch likewife corrects the courfe for lee-way, by his own judgment, before it is marked down in the log board. They heave no log : I was told that the company do not allow it. Their manner of computing their run, is by means of a meafured diftance of 40 feet, along the fliip's fide : they take notice of any remarkable patch of froth,
when
26a AVOYAGETO
when it is abreaft the foremoft end of the meafiired dif- tance, and count half feconds till the mark af froth is a- breaft the after end. With the number of half feconds thus obtained, they divide the number 48, taking the pro- dud for the rate of failing in geographical miles in one hour, or the number of Dutch miles in four hours.
It is not ufual to make any allowance to the fun's declina- tion, on account of being on a different meridian from that for which the tables are calculated : they in general, com- pute with the numbers juft as they are found in the table.. From all this, it is not difficult to conceive the reafon why the Dutch are frequently above ten degrees out in their reckoning. Their paffages likewife are confiderably length- ened, by not carrying a fufficient quantity of fail. December 16. December the i6th, in the afternoon, we anchored in Ta- Decemberi7. blc Bay. The ncxt morning, I went on lliore, and waited on his excellency M. Vander Graaf, who received me in the moft polite and friendly manner. The Guardian, command- ed by Lieutenant Riou, had left the Cape about eight days before, with cattle and ftores for Port Jackfon. This day, anchored in Table Bay, the Aftree, a French frigate, com- manded by the Count de St. Rivel, from the Ifle of France, on board of which fhip was the late governor, the Chevalier d'Entrecaftreaux. Other lliips that arrived during my llay at the Cape, were, a French 40 gun frigate, an Eait In- dia fhip, and a brig, of the fame nation: likewife two other French fhips, with flaves, from the coaft of Mofam- bique, bound to the Weft Indies : a Dutch packet from Europe, after a four months paffage : and the Harpy, a . South Sea Whaler, w^ith 500 barrels of fpermaceti, and 400 of feal, and other oils. There is a flanding order from the Dutch Eaft India Company, that no perfon who takes a paffage from Batavia for Europe, in any of their
fliips,
T H E S O U T II S E A S, &c. 263
fliips, fl\all be allowed to leave the fliip before fhc arrives 1789. at her intended port. According to which regulation, I P'""_"^ muft have gone to Holland in the packet. Of this, I was not informed till I was taking leave ot the governor- general, at Batavia, when it was too late for him to give the Captain an order to permit me to land in the channel. He however defired I would make ufe of his name to go- vernor Vandcr Graaf, who readily complied with my re- queft, and gave the necelTary orders to the Captain of the packet, a copy of which his excellency gave to me ; and at the fame time, recommendatory letters to people of confe- quence in Holland, in cafe I fliould be obliged to proceed fo far.
I left a letter at the Cape of Good Hope, to be forward- ed to governor Phillips, at Port Jackfon, by the firft oppor- tunity ; containing a fliort account of my voyage, with a defcriptive lilt of the pirates : and from Batavia I had writ- ten to Lord Cornwallis; fo that every part of India will be prepared to receive them.
We failed from the Cape, in company with the Aftrce Saturday t. French frigate. The next morning, neither fliip nor land were in liglit. On the 15th, we palled in fight of the illand St. Helena. The 2111:, we faw the illand Afcenfion. On the loth of February, the wind being at N E, blowing frefli, our fails were covered with a fine orange-coloured duft. Fuego, the wefternmoft of the Cape de Verd iflands, and the ncareft land to us, on that day at noon bore N E by E ^ E, diftance 140 leagues. When we had paficd the latitude of the Weftern iflands, a look-out was kept for fome rocks, which Captain Couvrct had been informed lay- in latitude 44* 25' N, and 2° 50' caft longitude from the eaft end of St. Michael. This information, Captain Cou- vret had received from a perfon that he knew, and who
§ laid
af^ A VOYAGE, &:c..
faid he had fecn them. On the 13th of March, we faw the Bill of Portland, and on the evening of the next day, Sun- March 14. day March the 14th, I left the packet, and was landed at Portfmouth, by an Ifle of Wight boat.
Thofe of my officers and people whom I left at Batavia, were provided with paflages in the earlielt lliips ; and at the time Me parted, were apparently in good health. Never- thelefs, they did not all live to quit Batavia. Mr. Elphin- ftone, mailer's mate, and Peter Linkletter, feaman, died within a fortnight after my departure ; the hardfhips they had experienced having rendered them unequal to cope with fo imhealthy a climate as that of Batavia. The re- mainder embarked on board the Dutch fleet for Europe, and arrived fafe at this country, except Robert Lamb, who died on the palTage, and Mr. Ledward, the fvirgeon, who has not yet been heard of. Thus, of nineteen who were forced by the mutineers into the launch, it has pleafed God that twelve fliould furmount the difficulties and dangers of the voyage, and live to re-vifit their native country,
THE END.