HISPANIC NOTES * PENINSULAR SERIES HISPANIC HISPANIC SOCIETY PENINSULAR SERIES OF AMERICA HISPANIC NOTES & MONOGRAPHS ESSAYS, STUDIES, AND BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES ISSUED BY THE HISPANIC SOCIETY OF AMERICA PENINSULAR SERIES I THE WAY SAINT JAM! GEORGIANA GODP Prof' Colli MAYOR (From a Compostellan Azabache in the Hispanic Society of America) fcl G. P ,M'S SONS NEW V KX. AND LOHDOTf 1MO THE WAY OF SAINT JAMES By GEORGIANA GODDARD KING, M. A. Professor of the History of Art, Bryn Mawr College; Member the Hispanic Society of America In Three Volumes Volume I Illustrated G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS NEW YORK AND LONDON 1930 COPYRIGHT, 1920. BY THE HISPANIC SOCIETY OF AMERICA Ube ftnfcberbocber press, Hew Boris FOREWORD iii FOREWORD During my stay in Rome of two years and a half, I employed all the spare time I had from Books and Libraries in viewing the Monuments; and I at last prescribed to myself a certain Method in making my Observations so as to go through the whole City in twenty Days. This same I repeated as often as either at the Request of my Friends or for my own Satisfaction I surveyed the city, always allotting twenty Days to review the whole. Pfere Montfaucon. FOLLOWING the precedent of the learned Benedictine, I have made one straight story out of three years' wanderings, and places visited and revisited. The outcome offers, I. Record first, a record of what exists, where other accounts are incomplete or inaccessible, II. Ex- and, secondly, an explanation of it. Spain planation HISPANIC NOTES I IV WAY OF S.JAMES I. Icono- graphy 2 . Chron- ology 3. TheCult of Santiago is a long way off, and pictures are not always explicit. It has taken seven years of my life. The writer's contribution, in particular, is first, a record and inter- pretation of iconographic detail all along the way, e. g., at Leyre from observa- tion, at Santiago from Aymery Picaud's account; second, an attempt to date, by comparison with such dated examples as exist, without any d priori; third and last, an occasional small hypothesis and the ground for it, e. g., about the original west front at Compostella, and the cult of Santiago. The general intention is stated at length in the first chapter; briefly, it was to dis- cover and record the evidence of Spain's debt in architecture to other countries, France in especial, during the Middle Age. By contrast with the French style which came in along the Camino francos, it was necessary to define the Spanish styles which that supplanted or modified, and was swallowed up in at last: this must justify the consideration given twice or thrice to earlier churches on sites now HISPANIC NOTES FOREWORD occupied, especially to the earlier sanctu- aries of the Apostle. At Leon Sr. Lamperez had already made such a study. The intention being to supplement his work and Street's great book, not to compete with them, repetition of what Street had pub- lished is avoided and, in consequence, only a single aspect of each of the great cathe- drals can figure here. To deal adequately with any one, would want a book at least as large as this. For those who desire to secure facts while avoiding the context, a very careful Index is supplied. This makes it possible for the learned to look up a church un- molested by the dust of the highway, and even the learned may care to look into the pages for some of the churches which are, so far as may be ascertained, hitherto unpublished: of these are Torres, Bar- badelo, Puerto Marin. The writer has looked into a good many old books and not a few remote and distinguished periodi- cals. The excursus into what may seem the field of comparative literature, indispens- able to the argument, was long, laborious, Assertion without substantia- tion Compara- tive literature AND MONOGRAPHS VI WAY OF S.JAMES Compara- tive Religion and scrupulously at first hand . The religions of the Roman Empire were investigated in competent and first-rate authorities, which are enumerated in the bibliography. Cursor Mundi is cited so often, though an English work, because it is precisely what it calls itself, a Pilgrim of the World, that has gathered up an immense quantity of cur- rent and floating lore, and represents just what might be in the head of any stone- cutter or master of the works. It is a popular and plebian substitute for Vincent and Honorius. The Bibliography repre- sents not the books consulted but those which yielded matter of worth, a very small proportion. In the Appendix are printed a few pieces justificatifs: quotations inverse or others too long for a footnote; the Grande Chanson des Pelerins, the Great and the Little Hymn of S. James and his Miracles out of the Ada Sanctorum, the Miracles of our Lady of Villa-Sirga out of the Cantigas del Rey Sabio, Thurkill's Vision, and a selection of Itineraries for the curious stay-at-home. Possibly it will be said that this little HISPANIC NOTES FOREWORD Vll book is neither one thing nor the other, for it offers archaeology without jargon, and travel without flippancy. The writer's hope is that the learning, however small, may be judged sound, and the style not unworthy of it in being the ordinary vehicle, which is the daily speech of cul- tivated people: and that some worth and some pleasure may consist in the exact account of what was done and seen with the sense and in the light of a whole history and literature yet palpable and precious, though less familiar to the gentle reader than the immortal ambience of the Lombard plain and the hill-towns of Tuscany. To pay the gratitude I owe to all who have helped me would take too long a list: it would begin with the great S. James himself, with the good Companion of many days, with a great and generous lover of Spain; and end with the long suffer- ing guardians of books in many libraries, the good-tempered boys and girls who fetched and carried dusty piles, and the outraged librarians who despatched too Nor pedantry nor imper- tinence The Good Companion AND MONOGRAPHS Vlll WAY OF S.JAMES Kindness academic, ecclesio- logical. and clerical many tiresome loans by post. Some names however may not be omitted, nor may I leave unsaid my thanks, for untiring and learned assistance, to the Reverend Father Middleton of Villanova College, who has answered questions intricate and importunate ; to Dr. Wright and Dr. Patch of Bryn Mawr College, who have read a number of chapters in manuscript, and bet- tered them, and Dr. Frank and Dr. Bar- ton who have answered demands sudden and surprising; to D. Juan Agapito y Re- villa, the Vallasoletan architect and eccle- siologist, for precious time spared to me and the gift of publications, some other- wise unattainable; to my friend D. Angel del Castillo of Corunna for other articles and specific advice and instruction sim- ply invaluable; to D. Benito Fernandez Alonso, of the Commission of Historic Monuments in Orense, for many cour- tesies and gifts; also to Mgr. Ragonesi, the Apostolic Nuncio in Spain; to the Archbishops of Santiago and Burgos and the Bishop of Leon; to the Dean and Chapter cf Santiago and the Abbess of Las HISPANIC NOTES FOREWORD ix Huelgas; to the Candnigo Fabriquero of Mondonedo and the Candnigo Archivero of 1 Santiago, and D. Felix Araras, Candnigo The glory Magistral of Burgos: and to twoscore of religion cine! of parish priests who without a single Spain exception offered me of their best, from erudition down to new milk, to the glory, i in the grand phrase of one of them to the glory of religion and of Spain. G. G. King. BRYN MAWR, All Souls' Day, 1917. The illustrations are taken in part from old books and museum pieces, in part from coins, and I have to thank G. F. Hill, of the British Museum, for a generous gift of casts from some coins in that col- lection; in part also from photographs of my own, and others, better, of E. H. Lowber. For drawings of difficult matter I am greatly indebted to Miss Helen Fer- nald, Instructor in the History of Art at Bryn Mawr College. To the Curator of Publications at the AND MONOGRAPHS I WA Y OF S.JAMES Use Hispanic Society, Miss Isabel K. Macder- mott, the reader owes as much as the writer, for her long patience and vigilant oversight during the publication. For the use in Spanish words, names, and titles, she and I are responsible, jointly, but it seems desirable that I should explain the principles to which we conformed; Spanish names of persons and places, and titles of modern books, are spelled and accented in accord- ance with the latest rulings of the Spanish Academy; the titles of old books are given as the author gave them. But it is a proud truth that the relations between those of English and those of Spanish speech were not established yesterday, nor even during the Peninsular War, but are a part of the ancient heritage of the two nations, and the sign thereof is that Spanish places have English names. We speak of Seville and Corunna, Pampeluna and Saragossa, Castile and Leon, by the same token that Shakespeare wrote of Katharine of Aragon, and Seuthey of the Infants of Carrion rhyming to Robin Hood's Marion. Those names I have used as we say Venice, HISPANIC NOTES FOREWORD XI Rome, and Florence, Paris, Lyons and Marseilles. They are each a token and a pledge that insularity is merely geographical and not intellectual, that isolation on the other side of the world cannot cut off Americans from talking in free and homely speech of the great places to which they turn with ancestral love and longing. In referring to Kings and Queens of the Spains, and other saints or heroes, I have not been careful always to call them by the same name, but as Jack and Jill may be addressed as John and Joan at times, I have taken the liberties that old acquaint- ance allowed. To call Isabel the Catholic Elizabeth, or the English Tudor the Isabellan style (though others have done it), I should hold for presumption, but Ferdinand and Alfonso may alternate methinks with Fernando and Alonso when the chronicler or the hagiographer prompts, and S. James is still recognizable as San- tiago. This is not meticulous nor pedantic, but it is comfortable and easy, which is a great good in travel. G. G. K. Jack shall have Jill AND MONOGRAPHS xii WAY OF S. JAMES I HISPANIC NOTES CONTENTS xiii BOOK ONE: THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER PAGE I. INTENTIONS .... 3 II. TURPIN'S CHRONICLE ... 26 III. THE BOOK OF S. JAMES . . 4! IV. THE STATIONS OF THE WAY . . 64 % V. ROMEROS EN ROMERIA . . 93 BOOK TWO: THE WAY I. SETTING OUT .... 137 II. HEART OF ARAGON . . -152 Jaca: The Cathedral . .157 S. Juan de la Pena . . .165 Alfonso el Batallador . .192, AND MONOGRAPHS I xiv WAY OF S.JAM E S CHAPTER PAGE III. THE BATHS OF TIERMAS . 2O2 Leyre .... . 2IO Sangiiesa - 230 IV. PAMPELUNA 253 V. SAINT SEPULCHRE . 286 Puente la Reyna - 294 El Sepulcro . 309 VI. TOWN CHURCHES 324 Irache .... 357 * VII. THE LOGRONO ROAD . . 366 The Spires of Logrono 370 Along the Battlefield . 381 S. Mary the Royal . 394 VIII. TWO ROAD-MENDERS . . 406 Sieur des Orties 431 NOTES .... 44 I HISPANIC NOT ES ILLUSTRATIONS XV ILLUSTRATIONS SANTIAGO MAYOR . Frontispiece PAGE S. JAMES: FROM BERRUGUETE'S TOMB OF CARDINAL TAVERA . . -51 THE SOUL AS PILGRIM. ". . .125 From a miniature of the XVth cen- tury THE CREST OF THE PYRENEES . . 139 Photogravure A PYRENEAN VILLAGE . . -149 S. JAMES AND PILGRIM: FROM S. CERNIN 179 EUNATE . . . . ... 231 Photogravure THE QUEEN'S BRIDGE . . . 286 Photogravure EL SEPULCRO 311 AND MONOGRAPHS I xvi WAY OF S.JAMES PAGE THE THURSDAY MARKET IN ESTELLA . 327 CAPITAL AT ESTELLA .... 349 THE DOOR OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE . 405 A MOUNTAIN TOWN .... 409 * I HISPANIC NOTES BOOK ONE i BOOK ONE THE PILGRIMAGE AND MONOGRAPHS I 2 WAY OF S. JA ME S Grot Sanctiagu! Herru Sanctiagul E ultrejaf E sus, ejal Deus adjuva nost Marching Song. I HISPANIC NOTES / THE PILGRIMAGE 3 I INTENTIONS C'est souvent sur les grands chemins que la vtritt apparatt aux cher- cheurs, ainsi qu'aux croy- ants. Courajod. THE original intention of this book was to examine the claims for the sources of Spanish architecture in the Gothic and Romanesque period. They are various. Was everything invented in Persia? Or in Syria, or Asia Minor, or Mesopotamia? Was everything borrowed from France? Was nothing learned from outside the Peninsula? M. Dieulafoy will have it that all the structural forms of Romanesque came :rom Persia to Spain, passed thence into Prance, and came back to Spain after the Reconquest. On consideration it appears, in the first place, that this contention will DC affected, in a way, by the larger question, AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S.JAMES Orient oder Rom now undecided, of Orient oder Rom, and its later development, Byzance ou Orient, and in so far may be left until these are nearer solution. In a way, of course, there is none, for every beginning has its antecedents. The argument of Professor Strzygowsky is allur- ing, but English travellers have pointed out that for the chronology of the churches of Syria and Asia Minor, while the sequence is plain the absolute dates are wanting, and if they are not of the fifth and sixth century, as once so confidently asserted, the argument of priority falls to the ground. The same is true of a good deal of Persian building: and if Justinian sent architects to Ctesi- phon, he probably sent others direct to Betica and Carthagena, where he was set- tling what once had been an army. Com- mendatore Rivoira has shown with a proof beyond challenge the early Roman use of forms which, the Romans not fancying them, were used indeed rarely. Anything however that the Romans might know, the Spaniards could and would and usually did know, and here the law of parsimony affects the thesis of M. Dieulafoy. To HISPANIC NOTES THE PI LGRI MA GE turn the pages of Rivoira's great work on the origins of Lombard architecture, is to encounter one by one, most of the typical plans enumerated by M. Dieulafoy in the opening pages of Art in Spain as oriental, and most of the structural devices as well. In the second place, he offers no direct means by which architectural methods and forms could be conveyed from Persia into Spain. If they came by Europe, the Romans must have brought them: this he dismisses. If they came by Africa, where are the (tapes of the long journey? The wonderful little churches that French archi- tects and officers have unearthed along that shore belong to Roman and Byzantine imperial building. The Moors are gener- ally believed to have developed their marvellous civilization on Spanish soil, as the Saracens on Sicilian and the Arabs on Mesopotamian : it flourished after an interval long enough, and it relied upon such charac- teristics and essential elements as the horse-shoe arch and the philosophy of Aristotle, which it found already in Spain. In this Arab question it is possible to com- The route of church- builders AND MONOGRAPHS WA Y OF S. JA MES Arab trails Loans to France mand expert testimony. Says Ibn-Khal- doun the historian, "When a state is composed of Bedawi [Arabs] it needs men of another land for building." M. Gayet, who supplies this, z goes on to say that the Arabs depended on the men they con- quered, architect and day labourer alike, for their edifices: that alike in Persia, Egypt, and Spain, their art is moulded about a pre-existing formula, and betrays the in- clination of a race which, though it may touch at points the Arab civilization, yet preserves its individuality and haughtily affirms it. So much for the intrinsic likelihood of their serving as carriers from Persia. Thirdly, there is small evidence of French borrowing from Spain before the year 1000. Sr. Lamperez once began to make a list of such cases: the first number 2 was the little church of Germigny-des-Pres, due to Theo- dulf the Spanish bishop of Orleans: the second number has not yet been published. The domed architecture of Perigord and Quercy is more wisely referred, when dates are scrutinized, to the repeated experi- H I S PANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE ments of French builders, helped by the presence of a Venetian colony at Limoges. 3 The architecture of Roussillon is not bor- rowed from Spain, it is simply Spanish, for in the Middle Age Roussillon was a part, most of the time, of the King of Aragon's domain. Isolated instances of imitation in France there may well have been, but rather in decoration than in structure, and most apparent in borrowing the cusped and trefoiled openings for arcades, windows and doors; but no general movement such as M. Dieulafoy postulates. The great wave which he calls a back- wash, the influx of French architecture into Spain that began in the eleventh century and lasted till the fourteenth, few nowadays will try to deny or even mitigate. French knights came, and French monks, and French master-masons, carvers and builders both. The main business of this book is with them. What is not so much denied, by serious scholars and the world at large, as ignored, unknown, is the importance of that which it supplanted, the beauty, in The back- wash AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Mozarabic churches truth the existence, of an art noble and autochthonous. In .Asturias and Leon, in Galicia, in those southerly parts of the ancient county of Castile which are now the provinces of Soria, Palencia and Valla- dolid in Catalonia and Aragon, stand lonely and forgotten churches, some cruciform, some basilican in type, marked nearly all with the horse-shoe arch; some built early in the Reconquest, some due to a long persistence of the type in places remote or unpeopled: they are the great might- have-been of Spain. They owe much to Constantinople and more to Rome: some- thing to the Visigoths, and wherever was the earlier home of them; little or nothing to France, that is to say, to Franks. With these pre-Romanesque churches I hope in some measure to reckon in the book that shall follow this, but not here: they are not found along the Pilgrim Way. The extent of Spanish relations with the lands that lie east of the Mediterranean, is matter of history. In the first three cen- turies, religions were fetched thence, the worship of Serapis, of Mithras and, accord- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE ing to Spaniards, of Jesus; then heresies, then precious relics, and memories of the Holy Land; then travellers' tales, and the exploits of Crusaders and the Great Con- quests of Over-Seas. The question is not whether this Oriental influence, so hotly asserted, was possible, but whether it was actual. Spiritually, in religious worship and belief, it is apparent, though even there Rome may nave been the carrier. There is a debt to Egypt, and the worship of Isis and Serapis was deeply rooted in Spain. It has left traces perhaps on Span- ish worship even to this day. Just what the Coptic contributed to the formation of Carolingian and Romanesque art, we are not yet prepared to say, .but certainly Coptic Christianity influenced Spanish hagiography. I shall have to show later how great perhaps was the debt to Syria, how legends were carried by bishop and merchant like seeds by birds. Sr. Lam- perez will have it that he has found the trail of a Syrian architect who came on the Pilgrimage in the twelfth century, at Irache, andatZamora. I believe him. Yetonexam- The Great Conquests of Over- Seas Isis and the Coptic Church AND MONOGRAPHS IO WAY OF S. JAMES The Thou- sand and One Churches Campani- lismo ining the plans and photographs and state- ments of fact I expressly exclude the deductions drawn thence of The Thou- sand and One Churches, 4 for instance, of Professor Butler's Mission to Northern Syria, of Crowfoot's journey and de Vogue's, the correspondences that appear with what I know in Spain are so few, that it seems safer to classify them as like effects of a common cause. Two further limitations must be put to the last sentence : one, that Templars' building and that of the Orders of the Hospital and the Holy Sepulchre, in Spain, are excepted, for there is Syrian or other Asian influence there, but the build- ings form a class apart, as will appear in the course of the book. The other is that there will be no consideration of any styles, in Asia Minor or Asturias, Mesopotamia or Galicia, Syria or Andalusia, of which all the examples have completely disappeared. Into the fault of not getting, intellec- tually, the sound of your town belfry out of your ears, have fallen some very distinguished Frenchmen who habitually speak on Spanish matters as having au- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE ii thority. When M. Bertaux 5 too lightly attributes matter very various, all to the school of Toulouse; when M. Enlart rashly insists that Peter Peterson, the architect of Toledo (Petrus Petri, reads his epitaph), instead of Pedro Perez, is Pierre the son of Pierre, and wants to make one of these Peter of Corbie, 6 then they bring reproach upon their nation. There is only one method to form a judgement of this sort, the exactest and most disinterested com- parison of objects. When Street wrote that Leon Cathedral was built from French designs, at some time after the year 1230, he cited in evidence the mouldings at Rheims, Amiens, and Laon: the passage is quoted elsewhere. Nothing less would serve him. M. Bertaux has wide reading in contemporary Spanish ecclesiology and a facile and happy instinct which oftener guesses a truth than proves it. M. Enlart has a recondite experience of early Gothic: on the churches of Italy, of Cyprus, of Scandinavia, he can speak from acquaint- ance, but he has not pushed so far as might be, into Spain, else had he never fobbed off MM. Ber- taux and Enlart Vcl. II, P. 250 AND MONOGRAPHS 12 WA Y OF S.JAMES Spain closed in 1559 Ripoll with only three apses, instead of seven. There is nothing for it but to shrug the shoulders when a Spanish Canon and his English admirers go astray; taking up, for instance, the dispute as to priority between the churches of Santiago and S. Sernin, if one of them asserts that there were, in that style, early instances a-plenty in Spain, but unhappily all have perished except those posterior to Santiago; or if another wrests the pilgrim's note that S. Martin of Tours had ambulatory and chapels "like Santiago," into an authentic statement that it was copied after Santiago. This is not scholarly, not critical. An elder generation of Spanish ecclesiologists was betrayed at times into an assumption that Spain, like the Great Council at Venice, was at a certain date closed to out- side influence, just as in the year 1559 it was closed to foreign learning: but the men of weight and the men of genius in Spain today, are free from taint of error. If the names of two French scholars only, muy respetables, are singled out, it is HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE precisely because they are so rightly and so heartily respected. There are others. The rest for instance, M. Henri Stein, 7 when they snatch everything in Europe, 8 are left with another shrug. 9 But these are not in like case. Of their judgment and experi- ence we should not anticipate the crowning argument that because the tenth cen- tury, or the twelfth, in France came to no such flower, therefore it could not in Spain. Both these, if they knew better the land of Spain, would doubtless abate their claim for France, as the present writer has had in due course to do. When one has learned really to know, league after league, a single region, the Tierra de Santiago and there- abouts, for instance, or the Burgalese, or northern Catalonia, or southern Navarre; or when one has studied the development through the centuries of a great chant ier, that of Leon or that of Compostella, one comes at last to realize that the stuff, whencesoever it comes, is soon altered and made over. Sometimes one sees the French leavening a vast lump; sometimes the metal is French but Spanish the image and superscription. The image and super- scription AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES When Avila was repeopled That stands to reason. It is not much better, with M. Bertaux, to dismiss every- thing of a certain sort as school of Toulouse, than with Richard Ford to talk about Norman architecture in Segovia, because we are used to calling it Norman in Eng- land. In spite of all their likeness, the English churches are not like those of Normandy, though the conditions made a relation far closer there, of incessant passage and interchange, than ever existed between Spain and France. Building French by origin may be Spanish in detail; again, the converse appears. A great chantier at its very inception must have had to call in local workmen. Raymond of Burgundy, for the repeopling of Avila, in 1090, fetched, along with ninety French knights, twenty-two masters of pie- dras taller and twelve of "jometria," for the walls: these had to build, besides the walls, the cathedral and the churches; yet in 1109 the work on S. Vicente was re- ported as well along. The masters had trained their men, and this case is probably typical. From time to time new blood HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRI MAGE was wanted: sometimes after deliberation the chapter would write away for an archi- tect, as that of Astorga sent, fearing it was too late, to enquire at Burgos for Master Francis of Cologne. Sometimes one came along of himself, like that William the Englishman who is said to have built the great church of Sahagun. So Villard de Honnecourt went to Hungary; so he passed by Chartres and Lausanne and sketched there. Workmen from the Royal Domain formed the style at Leon; from Burgundy, that at Avila. Workmen from Chartres, passing, left their handiwork on door- jambs at Sanguesa; from Rocamadour, left a plan like Souillac at Estella. The stone- worker's is a wandering craft. That R. Lombardo who signed a contract in the Seo de Urgell, to build the church with four other Lombardos, had crossed, belike, both Alps and Pyrenees with a sack of tools on his shoulder, some sort of sketch book in his wallet. Bishop Alonso of Carthagena, riding home from the Council of Bale, broke the journey, it is conjectured, at Cologne, and there picked up an honest A wander- ing craft AND MONOGRAPHS 16 WAY OF S. JAMES Master William and Master Claus workman, Hans by name, with as little ceremony as he would have used to hire a running-footman, or buy a hawk or a boar- hound. Was not Master William called "of Sens," master of Canterbury Cathedral? Did not one same Master William and one same Master Nicholas leave their signatures at Verona and at Modena, and their sign at Cremona and Ferrara? Up and down the coast of Catalonia and even into the isles of the sea travelled Jaime Fabre: all over the kingdom of the Castiles you may track the work of John of Badajoz. When the princely uncles of the King of France were still in their splendid ascendency, Claus Sluter, working for the Duke of Burgundy, wrote home to Holland for his nephew to come down and join him; Andre Beauneveu, working for the Duke of Berry, was visited twice at least by work- men of Burgundy, bent on learning. In October or November, 1373, Claus Sluter and Jean de Beaumetz were sent to him at the Chateau of Mehun-sur-Yevre, "pour visiter certains ouvraiges de peintures, d'ymaiges, et d' entailleures et autres que HISPANIC NOTE S THE PILGRIMAGE Monseigneur de Berry faisit faire audit Meun." 10 The other party consisted of masters in works of carpentry and of masonry, of Philippe le Hardi in Flanders, all expenses paid. A few more examples may serve: Eudes de Montereau went to Palestine with S. Louis, and worked much, and learned more. Jean Langlois of Troyes went on the pilgrimage to Jerusalem in 1267, not probably alone, and it has been pointed out that the cathedral of Famagusta, in the island of Cyprus, bears a strong likeness to the characteristic style of Troyes. For Charles of Anjou in Naples, worked at least one builder from the Isle of France, between 1269 and 1284, Pierre d'Angi- court. A hundred years later, in 1377, Guillaume Colombier of Avignon was oc- cupied at Anagni that removal, however, left him still in Papal territory. Matthew of Arras appears at Avignon in 1342 and the Emperor Charles IV takes him thence to Prague to build the cathedral there. Henry Arler of Boulogne-sur-Mer is said to have drawn the plans for that of Ulm " I've been to Palestine" AND MONOGRAPHS i8 WAY OF S.JAMES Villard de Honne- court The Sepul- chre of a Saracen but if so, something happened in the course of executing them. "J'ai este en mult de tiere, si cum ws pores trover en cest livre," writes Villard de Honnecourt, x I and again, beside the drawing of a window in Rheims, with a sudden recollection of bitter home-sickness : " I was in Hungary when I drew that, there- fore I love it more." The architect in other days, indeed, like the portrait painter, trusted more to his mind and less in his material: Villard in Hungary drew out from memory the pattern of the lovely rose and lancets at Rheims. Still, wffen he encountered the antique he sketched from it on the spot, here a votive statue, in the nude or all but, there a Gallo-Roman sepulchral monu- ment. " De tel maniere, " he notes, later, quaintly, "fu li sepoulcre d'un Sarrizin quejo m une fois." The chance to study a living lion, out in Hungary, was seized as a piece of great luck; almost as well as Mokkei with the tiger, he caught the pose of the huge doggish creature in the moment before his spring. The design of a clock, HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE the pattern of an inlaid pavement, the tracery of a rose or a labyrinth, he sets down as he encounters them; a device to make the lectern-eagle turn and bow at the Gospel, another to keep the priest's hands warm enough to celebrate the Mass on bitter mornings in northern winters. He preserves these as he thinks them out: afterwards, turning over the leaves with a friend, or in his old age, he makes his com- ments and adds his reminiscences. An admirable plan was that which he and Peter of Corbie worked out for vaulting the double ambulatory. So when such men met, on the tramp, travelling for commissions or on pilgrimage, be sure the sketch-book came out, yielding much, acquiring more, as they sat each with other, through the long hours of dark, inter se disputando. All along the Pilgrim Way you may see where they have been. Desirous merely of finding out, at first, what evidence exists for these French claims and these Spanish disclaimers, I have followed step by step the route laid down by Aymery AND MONOGRAPHS Peter of Corbie 2O WAY OF S.JAMES Sres. Alta- mira, Mo- reno and Lamp6rez Picaud in the twelfth century, for the pilgrims going to S. James. Precisely there, on the main-travelled road, if any- where, the proofs would lie. What this book records was learned from looking, and from books of history. Also at times are quoted the conclusions of Sr. G6mez Moreno, sometime of Granada, of D. Ra- fael Altamira who is an historian, of D. Vicente Lamperez who is a working archi- tect, versed in the learning of his craft, for these three are men of approved sobriety, reasonable in their postulates, liberal in their admissions, well established in their inferences, but even here, as in the case of personal judgements, in the propounding is distinguished whatever is matter of opinion. I have rung the changes on belike and per- adventure, it seems, and it well may be, till the reader doubtless is heartily sick of them all. I owe the scruple to the original intent, which was simply, I repeat, to disengage and present evidence. Everything believed at the outset was abandoned long ago; and, out of examination and comparison and perpetual returns to view old matter under HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE a new light, has been built up a theory, not new, but not before, perhaps, just so applied, of the importance of the chantier. Half by accident, at the outset, was Aymery Picaud taken for guide. In an earlier piece of work, editing Street's great book on Gothic Architecture in Spain, the main lines of French penetration into Spain were marked and approved. Before the breaking out of the War I had hoped to follow those ancient roads across France, and pause with the pilgrims at Vezelay and S. Gilles, at Limoges and Saintes and Toulouse; to see Saumur, and Parthenay- le-Vieux, the home of Aymery, and Blaye, where Roland lies buried and beside him Oliver, and Oliver's sister who died of sorrow, " Aude an vis cler." I had hoped from among winding riverside poplars, or on the huge domes of the volcanic land, or by S. Gilles, beside the great waters of the glimmering meres, to look up on August nights and see how ran the starry track, straight south-westward to Com- postella. Personal disappointment, the imperfection of a little piece of work, is 21 Aymery Picaud V AND MONOGRAPHS 22 WAY OF S. JAMES La douce France The Road not so much as to be uttered where the sacred name of France is invoked today. Acquaintance from of old with much that was best in France, la douce France, made the first plan not impossible though modi- fied perforce: but the close study of the Camino frances has been commenced and ended inside the Spanish frontier. The intention, as the reader will see, has grown long since from a mere pedantic exercise in architecture, to a very pilgrim- age, to following ardently along the ancient way where all the centuries have gone. The kings of Spain had built a highway to assist pilgrims in the twelfth century: but the road was there already. The Romans had built a military road as sign and condi- tion of their domination: but the road was there already. Palaeolithic man had moved along it, and the stations of a living devotion today, he had frequented; there he made his magic, and felt vague awe before the abyss of an antiquity unfathomed. Along that way the winds impel, the waters guide, earth draws the feet. The very sky allures and insists. "Comma se de- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE mostrdu d Calrros as estrelas enno ceo, commences the Gallegan version of Turpin the Archbishop, "how the stars in the sky revealed themselves to Charlemagne. " "It signifies that you shall go into Galicia at the head of a great host, and after you all peoples shall come in pilgrimage, even to the end of time, " thus the vision spoke to the Emperor: and the vision said to Bernar- dette: "A chapel shall be built here; I mean that people shall come in processions to it, ... so that all peoples shall come in processions from all places in the world, " multitudes and multitudes, forever. The known facts of geography, though edifying, cannot wholly explain this matter of the elder sanctuaries, nor tell why, though religions come and go, men set their feet eternally toward a certain hilltop, there to lift up their hearts. Sursum corda I the attitude is old as humanity, the emotion is strong as death. At S. Michel du PeYil the Druids held their assemblies in the place of those they had supplanted. At S. Michele in Gargano the bull of Mithras still lurks in the cave, wounded Angclorum agmine sepe visitatur AND MONO GRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Under- ground waters for the timeless sacrifice. An awe broods even over the Protestant's and the Puri- tan's line, when he comes to "the great vision of the Guarded Mount." In the lonely shrine of the Madonna del Parto, Piero della Francesca paused to paint a strange figure, older than the Maiden, older than the Romans' homely gods of hearth and garth, for Piero, mountain- born, could hear the noises that travel along the earth and over frozen seas. That sound of underground waters, which we call folk-lore, murmurs through all his inscrutable art; and his figure is worshipped there as from of old, the earth goddess invoked by women about to bring forth. Mystics can tell how journeys to such shrines are made: The way is opened before you, and closed behind you. Simple, that: believe it or not, it happens. So with Compostella: to those grey granite hills, ringed round with higher, the blind longings are drawn, the restless feet are guided. It is not a place to live, Iriste, grey, quite dead; nor even a place to love, not beautiful, not sympathetic; but when HISPANIC N OTE S THE PILGRIMAGE 25 you are away, it draws you. In the spring, when frost is out of the ground, and ships are sailing, week by week, you cannot get it out of your head: as you smell the brown fresh-turned clods, it works in your blood. There, as I went, so went the Middle Age. The great Pilgrimage was some- Roland's thing hugeous, incredible. On the current horn of it was borne this noble French archi- tecture, already spoken of; along the stream of it grew up a body of noble French epic; in the winding gorge of Roncevaux, still echoes the Chanson de Roland. AND MONOGRAPHS I 26 WAY OF S.JAMES II TURPIN'S CHRONICLE Es livres qui parolent des roys de France trovons escript que par la proiere Monseigneur Saint Jacques dona Nostre Sires cest don a Charlemaine c'on parleroit de lui tant com le siecle durtroit. CHARLEMAGNE was old, he had worn out his life fighting all over the earth ; he was weary and would rest, when one night he saw a starry road that, beginning at the Frisian sea, crossed France and Gascony, Navarre and Spain, to the world's end. It ran on across the sky to Galicia, where the body of S. James at that time lay unrecognized. Many a night he saw the marvel, and understood it not. At last a fair lord appeared to him, and when the I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 27 Emperor asked, "Lord, who art thou?" he answered, "I am James the Apostle, Christ's servant, Zebedee's son, John Evangelist's brother, elect by God's grace to preach His law, whom Herod slew : look you, my body is in Galicia but no man knoweth where, and the Saracens oppress the land. Therefore God sends you to retake the road that leads to my tomb and the land wherein I rest. The starry way that you saw in the sky signifies that you shall go into Galicia at the head of a great host, and after you all peoples shall come in pilgrimage, even till the end of time. Go then; I will be your helper: and as guerdon of your travails I will get you from God a crown in heaven, and your name shall abide in the memory of man until the Day of Judgement." In saecula saeculorum, Amen the promise rolls like thunder among the reverberating centuries. So Charlemagne makes three expeditions into Spain. In the first he pushes as far as Compostella and beyond, riding into the sea and sticking there his lance in sign of his dominion even to the ends of the AND MONOGRAPHS A road to a grave 28 WAY OF S.JAMES Compos- tella, Rome, and Ephesus earth. In the great church he establishes a Bishop and Canons under the rule of S. Isidore, bestows those bells that Almanzor was to carry away. In the course of the second foray he builds a church and founds an abbey hard by Cea bank, where Sahagun is situate. In the third invasion he holds a Council at Compostella and confers such privileges as Rome could never enforce for herself every house in Spain must pay four pence a year, every plough-land recovered, a measure of wheat and a measure of wine; bishops must come thither for investiture and kings for coro- nation. Compostella he makes the metro- politan see of Spain, co-equal with Rome the seat of Peter, and Ephesus the burial- place of John. On the way home he takes Saragossa and in the mountains his rear- guard is beset by Saracens. Roland and his twenty thousand good knights are slain, and buried by the Emperor at Blaye and Belin, Bordeaux and Les Alyscamps. He calls a Council at S. Denis to dower that abbey like S. James's and at Aix he paints the history of the Spanish wars HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 29 upon his palace walls. Finally, when he is dead, and the deeds of all his life lie in the balance, and that is insecure, a Gallegan without a head throws in the stones of all the churches that he built, and thus re- deems the promise of his early apparition. This ends the Chronicle of Turpin. The same crisis, it will be remembered, occurred in the case of the good King Da/gobert and also in that of the German Emperor Henry who lies now sainted in Bamberg, thanks to prompt action by S. Michael. The latest contribution to letters of M. Be'dier has been to show how all this is related by action and reaction to the great pilgrimage, and how the incidents which have sprung up along its route contribute to its success. He goes so far as to say that the whole Book of S. James, the Codex called of Pope Calixt, of which this of Tur- pin is a part, was compiled, probably by a French monk, in the middle of the twelfth century, and was intended pre- cisely as an instrument of propaganda, in other words, an advertising scheme for the pilgrimage. As the pseudo-Calixtus The Epical Legends AND MONOGRAPHS 30 WAY OF S. JAMES asked of clerks notes on the saints of their churches, so the pseudo-Turpin asked of professional jongleurs notes on the per- The first Knights of sons in their romances. Charlemagne Santiago and his peers are Pilgrims of S. James, they are the first Knights of Santiago. The idea gives occasion to M. Be"dier's ripe and poetic genius for une belle page that may be detached without much more damage than a flowering hawthorn bough: L'idee est belle de grouper dans les Landes de Bordeaux les heros de toutes les gestes, appelfes des quatre coins de 1'horizon poetique, de les acheminer tous, epris d'un meme de"sir, vers le torn- beau de Galice, et de les ramener par Roncevaux, afin que 1'apotre, a cette derniere etape de leur pelerinage, leur donne tous a la fois leur recompense, la . c com- joie d'etre martyrs. L'idee est belle de e(on moyto ce crepuscule des heros, qui renaissent de chorar ensemble a la lumiere eternelle. L'idee sobre el est belle de distribuer leurs depouilles, leurs reliques, sur les routes de Com- postelle, pour qu'ils en soient les gardiens, pour qu'ils protegent, eux les pelerins triomphants, ceux de 1'Eglise souffrante: I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 3i ils sont leurs modules sur ces routes, leurs patrons, leurs intercesseurs. Id6e recente, dit-on. Sans doute, puisque la vieille Chanson de Roland, celle du manuscript d'Oxford, 1'ignore. Mais idee qui precede pourtant de la vieille Chanson de Roland. Charlemagne et ses pairs chevaliers de S. Jacques, c'est 1'invention nouvelle; mais deja, dans la vieille chanson, ils 6taient les chevaliers de Dieu. Ils meurent & Roncevaux au enton retour du p^lerinage de Galice, c'est Rulan 1'invention nouvelle; mais la donn6 est martere de Jhesu- ancienne, h6ritee, qu'ils meurent a Crislo. . . Roncevaux, au retour d'une croisade, et deja la vieille Chanson de Roland est, a de certains 6gards, une Passion de martyrs. . . . * Certain chansons de geste show an exact knowledge of the long way and the stopping L'Entrfe places on it. Even in the Entree d'Espagne, * d'Espagne though the Paduan poet who composed it in the fourteenth century depended but little on the pseudo-Turpin, the Pilgrimage is the necessary antecedent, and the back- ground, of the action. Composed in honour of Charlemagne, it is perpetually AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S.JAMES Out- landers' geography preoccupied with S. James. The business of the warriors is not so much to deliver the Apostle from the Saracens in occupa- tion, as to keep the road open. Of the Way the Paduan has only hearsay knowl- edge he knows of Najera, and the bridge at Najera, and sets his great battle there, but we must suppose he brings in his army not by the pass of Roncevaux but by the sea-shore route, otherwise they could never have got to Najera before Pampeluna. He knows of Estella, about which lies much of the action, Astorga, and Carrion: on the other hand, he puts Belin close to Pam- peluna, and if Orthez is to be identified with Nobles, then he makes a like mistake there again. Not knowing the mountain passes, he takes a safe course and makes the entry vaguely by Port d'Espagne. 3 Burgos is merely Bors d'Espagne, a place from which came one of four kings, the others ruling in Logrono, Estella, and Sant Mart. Now Santas Martas is a tiny sanctuary on the Camino frances that no one would ever remember unless he happened to sleep there. 4 Nothing could be more significant HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 33 than this information, concrete and in- exact, about the places familiar to the pilgrims. On the other hand, the Prise de Pam- pdune s is as exact in its itinerary as Childe Harold's Pilgrimage. Charlemagne takes a town, baptizes the people, and moves on to another; takes it, baptizes it, and treks. The man who first planned this poem, not necessarily Nicholas of Verona, for some of the incidents of it lie in the dim back- ward and abysm behind the Chanson de Roland, either had made himself the journey from Pampeluna to Compostella, or had taken notes from the talk of a pilgrim who had made it, or else, conceiv- ably, he had access to a better and fuller Guide than Aymery Picaud's, 6 and his public knew as much as he. This is in the situation of The Road in Tuscany, of. A Note-Book in Northern Spain: half the interest lies in the presentation on the one hand, recognition on the other, of matter familiar to both and by both felt romantic- ally. While Saragossa, Cordova, and To- ledo are vaguely envisaged, the westering La Prise de Pamftclune AND MONOGRAPHS 3* WAY OF S.JAMES road runs straight and plain, by Pampe- luna, Estella, and Logrono. Sus le cemin seint Jaques somes sens gaberise, Vees la Charion, 7 and after Carrion we see Sahagun, Masele, which will be Mansilla de las Mulas, Leon, and Astorga, where was once, as still at Compostella there is, a Porta Francigena. Ver la porte che veit ver Frange e ver Bertagne 8 Roland spurs, and the episode ends with a movement westward A la porte che veit ver Seint Jaques tutour. 9 Another long and very readable poem, composed in the thirteenth century, Anseis de Carthage Anseis of Carthage, 10 draws not only from the pseudo-Turpin but also from the legendary store of Spain. Spanish and French critics are agreed that Anseis, the old Councillor Ysore" and his daughter I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 35 Lentierra, owe their being to Roderick, Count Julian, and the unhappy lady called la Cava. The morale of it is different; the young king is shown as pretty nearly unable to help himself in the false position that the lady has contrived, the father as a renegade hell-ripe, and the countess, remanded to a convent, gets off too easily with a knightly young son to intercede for her and to succeed her. The Saracen princess Gan- deira, whom Anseis intended all along to marry, comes out as the conventional good wife of chivalry. It is not really necessary to suppose much more borrowing from Count Julian than from Paris of Troy: where likeness exists, the story is common enough in history, in romantic poetry, and in life. But the geography is rich and re- sponsible. Taking place up and down the Way, all over the Way, the action is a little, in places, like a battle in Shakespeare, and in others, like the page which good Baedeker consecrates to an all-day journey. Anseis, beset by Saracens, falls back from somewhere beyond Astorga making one desperate stand after another, as far as AND MONOGRAPHS 36 WAY OF S. JAMES Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz, and thence sends messengers along the whole route up through France to the court of Charlemagne: the emperor marches, stage by stage, reconquers Spain, and finally goes home and gives thanks: the reader also, having now been over the road three times. If Pierrot du Ries wrote the poem, not merely copied it, then Astorga in Pierrot had himself once skirted wood, the plain descended painfully into a valley, forded the stream at the bottom, breasted the hill beyond the Orbigo and had the sudden vision of Astorga in the plain adobe- walled, crested with huge towers where it stands yet like the ivory elephant on a chess- board and Droit ver Luiserne tout I antiu cemin, ' * he too had gone with Franchois. This same city of Luiserne, with its story out of the Arabian Nights, had long in- trigued scholars, and to M. Bedier belongs the praise for having found it, at last, simply by following the path. Here too, the main concern of everyone in the poem is: . I HISPANIC NOTES ^ ^ THE PILGRIMAGE 37 Le cemin ke tu as Dieu promis Del bon apostle. This art, moreover, has its roots in the soil. First was the station, then the story, as M. Bedier points out. Some of The In- numerable the stations may be older than he reckons: Martyrs as night mist lies late in mountain hollows. The memory of innumerable dead broods on certain fields from before the dawn of history. The prehistoric bones in the Rhineland about Cologne were so multi- tudinous as to give the seat, and possibly the occasion, of two legends at least: that of S. Ursula, with her eleven thousand maidens shot to death with arrows by the German barbarians from further north and east; and that of the Theban Legion who, having received corporate baptism and given their pledge to the Wonderful, the Ever- lasting, the Prince of Peace, then sooner than fight the battles of the Empire elected to die where they stood; non-resistant. The dead of Roncevaux all lie with their fathers far back. At Bordeaux, a great Gallo-Roman necropolis surrounded the AND MONOGRAPHS I The little flames WAY OF S.JAMES shrine and tomb of S. Seurin; at Blaye it would seem S. Remain (ob. 384) found some such an one when he rebuilt the famous temple in a field of sepulchres: at Alyscamps the Romans had buried in the burial place of those they overcame. Where lie the tombs of the dead, where pass the feet of the living, there the little flames of the holy story burn brightly, and the ancestral ghosts are worshipped as martyrs and intercessors. S. Roland and S. Charlemagne were not fantastic titles to the Middle Age. ' 2 In the cathedral of Chartres they enjoy a window of their own, like S. Stephen and S. Eustace and S. Magdalen. With Chartres, in truth, though the way is long, Compostella has more than one curious connexion. The famous Codex named of Pope Calixt, which contains the Chronicle of Turpin and the Itinerary of Aymery, contains also a sort of liturgical mystery play, dealing with the Mass, that was written by Fulbert of Chartres. A clerk of Santiago who knew the great Bishop, or one visiting, may have brought it, or a HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 39 pious pilgrim, long after, made of it a sweet offering, or the chapter came by it through some ecclesiastical intermediary: at any rate, there you handle the MS. and music of Bishop Fulbert's composition, as the owner laid it up in the Codex among other precious things. There were plenty of possible intermediaries, for instance that Bernard of Angers who wrote the Book of the Miracles of S. Faith and dedicated it to Fulbert while he was yet alive: ' 3 now the sanctuary of S. Faith in Rouergue was specially recommended to pilgrims on the Way. The Codex was compiled, as most students agree, before 1150; at the close of that same century or very shortly thereafter a workman from the chantier at Chartres, passing on the Camino frattces, stopped at Sanguesa, and carved six figures on the door- jambs of S. Mary's Church, three of them queens, poor relations of the great figures in La Beauce. They stand there yet in San- guesa. In the thirteenth century the glass- painters of Chartres portrayed a window of the eastern ambulatory with the his- tory of SS. Charlemagne and Roland, after The Miracles from Conques Three Queens from Chartres AND MONOGRAPHS 40 WAY O F S.JAMES the versions ot Beauvais. Turpin and Vincent of and S. Ferdinand That window is flanked, there in the eastern aisle, by the legend of S. Vincent of Saragossa on one hand, and on the other, by that of S. James, Spaniards both, in a little Spanish reunidn: and in a clere- story window above still rides, as donor, in the glowing rose, S. Ferdinand. . I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 4i III THE BOOK OF S. JAMES Nay more where is the third? Calixt? Villon. THE codex called of Pope Calixtus has Calixtus II nothing of him but the name. Seeing that he was in the world Count Guy of Burgundy, born brother to Count Ray- mond, Queen Urraca's husband, and there- after Archbishop of Vienne, he made a plausible par rain for the MS. which was written under the influence of the great Archbishop his friend, Diego Gelmfrez, if not in his day. It consists of five books, described as follows by a monk of Ripoll, Arnaut del Monte, 1 who saw it in 1173: I. De scriptts sanctorum patrum, Augustini, videlicet, Ambrosii, Hieron- ymi, Leonis, Maximi et Bede . . . AND MONOGRAPHS I 42 WAY OF S.JAMES (aliaque) scripta aliorum quorundam sanctorum, in festivitatibus predicti apostoli et ad laudem illius per totum annum legenda, cum responsoriis, anti- phonis, prefationibus, et orationibus ad idem pertinentibus quam plurimis. II. Apostoli miracula. III. Translatio apostoli ab Hierosoly- mis ad Hyspanias. IV. Qualiter Karolus Magnus do- muerit et subjugaverit jugo Christi Hyspanias. V. Varia. In the first Book or part occurs the Mass with a Parse or dramatic and musical Carmina Contpos- liturgy credited usually to Fulbert, but tellana retouched perhaps a little at Compostella. Among the Hymns and Tropes many are attributed to great names, Fulbert of Chartres, the Patriarch William of Jerusa- lem, S. Fortunatus; or others lesser but still historical, Bishop Hatto of Troyes, Joscelin of Vierzy Bishop of Soissons, Alberic of Rheims, Master Airard of Ve*zelay. Others are offered as the com- position of Magister Johannis Legalis, of r HISPANIC'NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE Pope Leo and Master Panicha, of Albert of Paris, in whom one would fain see a hum- bler precursor of Albertus Magnus; and one as a Prayer of Master G., whom Fr. Dreves," probably with reason, would identify with Master Gautier of Castel Renaud, elsewhere presented as composing music Magister Gauterius de Castello Rainardi. A good many in the collection may be of this kind, which is indeed the same kind as Hymns Ancient and Modern; a little one of Master Anselm's, two or three named of Pope Calixt, and, also charged to the last-named, a quaint set of macaronic verses in Greek, Latin, and Hebrew. Of Calixtus it must be admitted that there is a very ancient tradition at Santiago that he came thither. 3 Not here, but after the Guide, along with some of those already enumerated, occur the poems of Aymery Picaud, the two hymns and a third in unrhymed quantitative verse, in Sapphics of a sort, which the original editor annotates with touching pride. But the best in the collection is the superb drama of the Mass, intended 43 iDt d6nde eres Ptregrinof The Drama of the Mass AND MONOGRAPHS 44 WAY OF S.JAMES The bull- voiced mimes Ensamples for antiphonal choirs, at least two great solo voices, and a chorus that included, along with masses of trained singers, at times the entire congregation of the crowded church. Only to read it, you hear the bellowing of the bull-voiced mimes and the roar of Amen and Eleison: of this com- position more will be said elsewhere in the proper place. The Hymns and Re- sponsions in prose, with musical notation arranged usually for two or three voices, in the Appendix that follows the Itinerary, differ from the rest only in the date of transcription; some are repetitions from the earlier part, one is dated 1190; all are in another hand from the Codex proper. There is no more reason to doubt the good faith of the collector than to believe in the authenticity of these vague and traditional attributions it is enough that Aymery believed them. The second Book contains a choice of twenty-odd miracles or Ensamples, mostly contemporary: 4 about such a collection as you would find at Lourdes. Of these the second belongs to the time of Bishop HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 45 Theodomir and is credited to Bede; the third befell in 1108; the fourth is told on the faith of Master Hubert, the pious canon of the church of S. Mary Magda- len of Vezelay; the sixth and seventeenth are credited to S. Anselm, and the eight- eenth befell a Count of S. Gilles "not long since." All the rest, with some of these, belong to the lifetime, and most to the episcopate, of the great Archbishop. Arnold of Ripoll adds two more that he found elsewhere in the Codex, in one of which figures Abbot Alberic of Vezelay (1138-43), a member of the household of Cluny. He copied out parts for those at home, some of which might be read in church and some at dinner, some parts, that is, being doctrine and others pious opinion. 3 The third book, which tells the journey of S. James's body, Mgr. Duchesne has examined in the finest critical spirit, be- side which seem dull and doubtful the pa- tient labours of Fr. Fidel Fita to reconcile nonsense and make forgery plausible. The fourth is the Chronicle of Turpin, Miraclesof S. James AND MONOGRAPHS 4 6 W A Y O F S.JAMES A Spici- legium already summarized; the fifth, the Pil- grim's Guide of Aymery Picaud, liegeman of Vezelay and clerk in orders to which we shall come shortly. 6 The core of the MS., then, is a sort of offertory, compiled, in the better parts, of what the pilgrims brought, though for- geries are arranged behind and before and on either hand, to make all secure. It was intended to increase devotion and promote the pilgrimage. 7 It succeeded; pilgrims waited their turn to make extracts and copies. But it is something more, a Spici- legium, a true and faithful gathering of the legends told along the way. The whole Book of S. James is seen to be, in this light, a book and not a miscellany. It gathers up the tales along the road- side, sometimes saintly legends, sometimes epical. It begins with the history of the Apostle, continues with Charlemagne, and ends with a choice of contemporary miracles. The legend of S. James is told, in its essentials, about as follows in the Codex, in the Golden Legend, and in the Recuerdos HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 47 de un mage that Fr. Fidel Fita made in the year of grace 1880: James the apostle, son of Zebedee, Tltf preached after the ascension of our Lord I ne Golden in the Jewry and Samaria, and after, he Legend was sent into Spain for to sow there the word of Jesu Christ. But when he was there he profited but little, for he had converted unto Christ's law but nine disciples, of whom he left two there, for to preach the word of God, and took the other seven with him and returned again into Judea. When the blessed S. James was be- headed, his disciples took the body away by night for fear of the Jews, and brought it into a ship, and committed unto the will of our Lord the sepulture of it, and went withal into the ship without sail or rudder. And by the conduct of the angel of our Lord they arrived in Galicia in the realm of Lupa. There was in Spain a queen that had to name, and also by deserving of her life, Lupa, which is as much to say in English as a she- wolf. And then the disciples of S. James took out his body and laid it upon AND MONOGRAPHS I 4 8 WAY OF S.JAMES Lupa, by interpreta- tion a she- wolf a great stone. And anon the stone re- ceived the body into it as it had been soft wax, and made to the body a stone as it were a sepulchre. Then the disciples went to Lupa the queen, and said to her: Our Lord Jesu Christ hath sent to thee the body of his disciple, so that him that thou wouldest not receive alive thou shalt receive dead, and then they recited to her the miracle by order; how they were come without any governaile of the ship and required of her place convenable for his holy sepulture. And when the queen heard this, she sent them unto a right cruel man, by treachery and by guile, as Master Beleth saith, and some say it was to the king of Spain, for to have his consent of this matter, and he took them and put them in prison. And when he was at dinner the angel of our Lord opened the prison and let them escape away all free. And when he knew it, he hastily sent knights after, for to take them, and as these knights passed to go over a bridge, the bridge brake and over- threw, and they fell in the water and were drowned. And when he heard that he repented him and doubted for HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 49 himself and for his people, and sent after them, praying them for to return, and that he would do like as they would themselves. And then they returned and converted the people of that city unto the faith of God. And when Lupa the queen heard this, she was much sorrowful, and when they came again to her they told to her the agreement of the king. She answered: Take the oxen that I have in yonder mountain, and join ye and yoke them to my cart or chariot, and bring ye then the body of your master, and build ye for him such a place as ye will, and this she said to them in guile and mockage, for she knew well that there were no oxen but wild bulls, and supposed that they should never join them to her chariot, and if they were so joined and yoked to the chariot, they would run hither and thither, and should break the chariot, and throw down the body and slay them. But there is no wisdom against God. And then they, that knew nothing of the evil courage of the queen, went up on the mountain, and found there a dragon casting fire at them, and ran on them. and wild bulls AND MONOGRAPHS 50 WAY OF S. JAMES And they made the sign of the cross and he brake on two pieces. And then they made the sign of the cross upon the bulls, and anon they were meek as lambs. Then they took them and yoked them to the chariot, and took the body of S. James with the stone that they had laid it on, and laid on the chariot, and the wild bulls without governing or driving of anybody drew it forth into the middle of the palace of the queen Lupa. And when she saw this she was abashed and be- lieved and was christened, and delivered to them all that they demanded, and dedicated her palace into a church and endowed it greatly, and after ended her life in good works. 8 Some of this seems to come too near to Colchis' strand, and the devout of today From have quietly dropped overboard the dragon. Colchis' strand It must be said in fairness, that the dragon has as good a right there as the bulls: for the twelfth century as for the fifteenth, they would sink or swim together. After this, the disciples set out on the Roman road that runs from Padron to Betanzos, 9 and buried S. James in a fair marble I HISPANIC N OTES o .a I THE PILGRIMAGE sepulchre, which they may have found there disused, or which a convert and his family might offer as once Nicodemus did; Moors came, and the memory of 4t was lost even in Galicia. About the beginning of the ninth cen- tury, in 830 or 813, perhaps, a hermit named Pelayo lived among the rocks of a steep hillside; by night he watched the stars, and once he saw one burning strangely low and strangely bright. There is another version, however, by which many little lights were seen hovering and flickering above the spot. The villagers near by saw it as well, the Bishop Theodomir was ap- prized: excavations revealed the tombs of the Apostle and his followers, and Alfonso the Chaste in person beheld and adored. Remain only the episodes when S. James appeared again and showed himself, like Castor, on a huge white horse. At the battle of Clavijo, in the Rioja near Najera, to the cry of " Santiago, Cierra Espana ! " he swept the field clear of the Hagarenes: this was in 845. At Simancas, in 939, with mitre and crozier he was manifested along with S. 53 Area marmorea The littl< lights HISPANIC NOTES 54 WAY OF S.JAMES Millan, the two together, "white .horse- The White men that ride on white horses, the Knights Horsemen of God." 1 ' He appeared at Baeza before 1149, find helped in the winning of Estre- madura, at Ciudad Rodrigo and Merida, and elsewhere, and in America, though at In all, 38 times the credit was transferred to others. apparitions Two traits, rich in human nature, belong, if anywhere, here. M. Paul Claudel, a Neo- Catholic man of letters sometime resident in Paris, of the most excessive and unctuous piety, is persuaded that S. James suffered martyrdom in Spain. In brief, though his theme is The Year of God, he does not know the first thing about the Apostle: S. Jacques a la fin de Juillet a peri en Espagne par 1'epee: Entre les deux mois ardents il git, la tte coupee. 11 On the other hand, Father Fita, a very learned Jesuit, believing what he is told, yet saves and reserves his scholar's wit and his Spanish humour. Apropos of the eldest altar of S. James and an inscription on it, he writes: "The monks believed I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 55 aright, if they thought the disciples of S. James made an altar with these stones over the grave of the Apostle, after the most ancient use of the church: but they believed not well, if they imagined that with the holy body from Jerusalem came along a Celto Hispanic column and tablet!" 12 Because some Neo-Catholics love to suffuse with emotion their ignorance; and because even scholarly Jesuits some- times are bound to twist and turn the impossible in the hope of making some- thing credible which is the task of making ropes of sand there must be no pause before presenting another sort of priest, of the kind not uncommon in France, who loving their God with heart and mind have thought to serve Him by blowing up old lies and making plain the way of truth. Mgr. Duchesne of the French School in Rome, at Brussels in i8g4 13 and at Bor- deaux in 1900 squarely encountered this huge mass of legend, in the light of learn- ing, and cleared the ground. He did to his church son's duty and knight's service. His reward is in the Index. 1 * The Pillar A French priest AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES S. James never in Spain Follows a very brief abstract of his argument, 15 omitting points that seem of pure scholarship, as, for instance, the true history of the arcae marmoricae: S. James's journey to Spain is not men- tioned by Prudentius: no references to it have been found in the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth centuries. Orosius of Braga, Idaeus, Bishop of Aquae Flaviae, S. Martin of Braga, Visigothic ecclesiastical writers, S. Isidore of Seville, etc., all are silent in their authentic writings. So also in Gaul: for instance, Gregory of Tours, with all his knowledge of the sanc- tuaries of Spain, makes no reference; Fortunatus, even, in an epistle to S. Martin of Braga, writes: "It is to S. Martin the Elder that Gaul owes the light of the Gospel, it is to the new Martin that Galicia owes the same benefit. In his person she enjoys the virtue of Peter, the doctrine of Paul, the help of James and John." In the collection of apostolic histories known under the name of Abdias, although there is plenty of legend, "apocryphal and fabulous accounts," there is not a word HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 57 of the journey of S. James to Galicia or of his burial there. Pope Innocent's letter, 416, denies any apostle but S. Peter in Italy, the Gauls, Spain, Africa, Sicily, and the adjacent isles. This may be for rea- sons of his own, and indeed he is insisting on acceptance of the Roman use. To be sure, S. Jerome has a passage about nets and fishers of men, Jerusalem, Spain, and Illyria, but the geographical choice of names is rhetorical rather than historical. The so-called Apostolic Catalogues are hopelessly apocryphal, and entirely dis- credited; this was settled in 1894. Aldhelm, Bishop of Malmesbury, used the legend found in one of these, in composing an altar-inscription, at the end of the seventh century: S. Julian of Toledo had used the same compilation as early as 686 but he made S. James preach to the Jews, at Jerusalem, and deliberately omitted the Spanish episode. It is worth noting that Archbishop Rodrigo Xime"nez of Toledo, in the thirteenth century, treated it as an old wives' tale. Old Mozarabic liturgies before the Apostolic Catalogues AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Mozarabic liturgies twelfth century take no particular interest in S. James. The feast of July 25 came into Spain very late: it is lacking from many calendars of the tenth and the elev- enth century. Before the eleventh century the Spanish apostolate of S. James, then, is mentioned only in a Latin version of the Byzantine Apostolic Catalogue, and in books which depend on this version. Neither this Catalogue in its original Greek text, nor the additions which characterize the Latin recensions, have any title to represent an authentic tradition: certainly not a Spanish tradition. S. Julian of Toledo knowing their assertion, as we have seen, left it out. The Catalogue moreover does not bury him in Spain. The oldest uncon- tested document is the Martyr ology of Adon, c. 860: "Hujus beatissimi apostoli sacra ossa ad Hispanias translata et in ultimis earum finibus, videlicet contra mare Britannicum condita, celeberrima illarum gentium veneratione excoluntur." Long before this, Spain was restless, in- submissive, independently disposed in HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 59 relation to Rome. Galicia was the strong- hold of Priscillians; the invasion of the Suevi, 409, alone saved the bishops from wholesale eviction; as late as 561 they were still strong in the north-west corner of the province; i. e. in the very diocese of Iria Flavia. The heresy disappeared in the seventh and eighth century and the Suevian church was absorbed by the Visigothic. The fall of the Visigoths and the Moslem invasion touched the north-west lightly and not for long. Charters of Alfonso II the Chaste, 829, Ramiro I, 844, and Ordono I, 859, are highly to the point, but they are not universally admitted as authentic. They say that the body of S. James was revealed during the reign of Alfonso, in the time of Bishop Theodomir of Iria Flavia: that is all, just "re- vealed," down to the end of the ninth century. The Chronicon Sebastiani and the Chronicon Albeldense have not a word of it. Adon probably echoed some en- thusiastic pilgrim who had picked up the story on the spot. Almanzor took Com- postella twice, in 988 and in 994, and Priscil- lians, Friends of God AND MONOGRAPHS 6o WAY OF S.JAMES The Codex as authority sacked and burned it. By 1078 the great church still standing, was begun, and the pilgrimage was in full blast. The two great books on which, after this, all hangs, are the Historia Compos- tellana and the Codex called "of Calixtus II" (called here The Book of St. James). The former deals chiefly with contemporary events, down to 1139, and is virtually a history of Bishop Diego Gelmirez; the second contains (as mentioned before) The Translation of S. James from Jerusalem to Spain, a letter of S. Leo the pope, the Miracles of S. James, collected, nominally, by Calixtus II, the Passion of S. Eutropius of Saintes, the history of Charlemagne by the pseudo-Turpin, and an apocryphal letter of Innocent II authenticating the whole. The Translatio is a clear plagiarism from the History of the Seven Spanish Bishops martyred in the south of Spain, at Acci, now Guadix, near Granada. That story, which includes the seven disciples, the Lady Luparia, with the bridge that breaks down, and the Monte Sagro, was known in Italy and France by the ninth century. HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE The letter of Pope Leo (possibly meant for Leo III, 795-816) does not attest the discovery of the relics, only their transla- tion that the body of S. James was brought by his disciples from Jerusalem into Galicia. Three redactions of this letter exist: the oldest from a MS. of S. Martial of Limoges, in Visigothic writ- ing of the tenth century, added on a blank page. Another, from a MS. in the Escorial, was published by Fita and Guerra in Recuerdos de un viaje a Santiago de Compostela. The third is that of the Liber Calixtinus. The first depends on the Translatio and the Apostolic Catalogues; the second on the work of Adon; the third, quite different, depends on the Translatio and on the Passio S. Jacobi in the pseudo- Abdias. The shrine being by this time troubled by competition in other places that claim some portion of the relics of S. James, this version insists on "integrum corpus," separates itself from the legend of the Seven Spanish Bishops, and makes the two disciples who escorted the body, Athanasius and Theodore. On this ver- AND MONOGRAPHS 61 Pope Leo's letter 62 WAY OF S.JAMES sion depends (1139) the Historia Composte- llana. It may have been known in 1077, if we may so conclude from an act of that year between Bishop Diego Pelaez and Fagild, abbot of the monastery of Anteal- The third tares. At any rate, it belongs to the re- recension building of the church. 16 The work was begun in 1082 (so Mgr. Duchesne) and it is quite possible that they looked at the crypt, discovered that therein were only three bodies, therefore revised the legend. Fita and Guerra give no reason for saying precisely that the crypt under the church is of the first years of the Christian era. One can only admit that it is Roman. Probably a great Roman tomb was really discovered in the first third of the ninth century. In summing up, Mgr. Duchesne says Conclu- i. The belief goes back to a Latin sions recension of the A postolic Catalogues, in no sense traditional documents or trustworthy. 2. About 830 an antique tomb was found, which was considered S. James's; the cult is attested by Adon in France within thirty years. I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 63 3. About this time, the middle of the ninth century, was compiled an account of the Translation. A body brought by the Seven Saints from near Granada, pre- supposes the preaching of S. James in Spain during his life. 4. At the end of the ninth century was forged a letter of Pope Leo (any Leo) stated a contemporary of S. James. 5. Nearer the end of the ninth century, or early in the tenth, the letter was revised; the Seven Bishops were left out and the two disciples put in. 6. In 1136 the Historia Compostellana fixed the tradition. 7. All that remains is the Galician cult, from the first third of the ninth century. Mgr. Duchesne leaves in a footnote the recognition of the relics which had been removed in 1589 (when Drake went to Call him Corunna sworn to burn and disperse them), uo the deep sea. . . and were recovered in 1879, ratified in 1884. AND MONOGRAPHS I 6 4 WAY OF S.JAMES IV THE STATIONS OF THE WAY Airinos, airinos, aires, Airinos da mina terra, Airinos, airinos, aires, Airinos, levaime a ela. AYMERY PICAUD, Poitevin and clerk in orders of Parthenay-le-Vieux, came to Composteila with a Flemish dame called Girberga, and probably her husband, Oliver of Iscan, vassal of land dependent on S. Mary Magdalen of Vezelay; and for the redemption of their souls they made a gift of the Codex, the Book of S. James, to the apostle. The Latin text here is a little difficult, through some corruption: it is possible that Aymery was travelling with Girberga as her secretary or even as her husband, though the Council of Rheims had again forbidden the clergy to marry. In I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 65 that case Oliver would be Aymery's name, Parthenay his birthplace and Vezelay his suzerain, and in truth, he copies out a miracle on the faith of an abbot of Ve'zelay, The Poitevin like one concerned, though he also tran- scribes the Passion of S. Eutropius of Saintes, and a passage about him from S. Gregory of Tours, being a good Poite- vin. We must be content probably to know little more about him except that he was a poet, and wrote a rousing good marching-song which starts off to the tune of Gaudeamus Igitur, and a longer poem, also rhymed, summarizing the current miracles. 1 These will be found in the IV, V Appendix. Furthermore, it is .generally held that he was not probably the same with the Aymery who was chancellor of Santiago, from 1130 to 1141. 2 Of this I am not quite sure, as will presently appear. He is not in any circumstances to be con- fused with Aymerico de Anteiaco, who was treasurer of the cathedral of Santiago in 1326, wrote the manuscript called Tumbo B, and probably the Latin Chronicle of Arch- bishop Berenguel. 3 This was the Arch- AND MONOGRAPHS i 66 WAY OF S.JAMES bishop who, a Frenchman from Rodez in the south of France and a Dominican, 4 liked Bishop Beren- but ill the account of Jacobus a Varagine guel's (whom we know better as Jacques de Vora- Legenda gine) and ordered Bernardus Guidonis to write something more to the purpose : s . . . ut Legendam alteram ex sincerioribus actis colligeret et ederet, quod et fecit, quod tamen non impedivit ne Legenda Jacobi de Voragine sua brevitate com- moda passim ab omnibus conquireretur et avide legeretur. The fifth book of the Codex that he gave, is the Pilgrims' Guide, written avowedly in part by Aymery, and by him attributed in part to Pope Calixt, whose endorsement is prefixed. "There are moreover many yet living," he says, "who can testify to the truth of what is writ therein." Since upon the approximate date within the twelfth century scholars are in complete disagreement, a word of common sense may be permitted. The only positive date which occurs in the Codex as a terminus a quo is in that difficult passage about the I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE deaths of kings, quoted and discussed later in another connexion, which reckons from the beginning of the cathedral works as fifty-nine years to the death of Alfonso of Aragon (1134), sixty-two to the death of Henry of England, and fully sixty-three to the death of Louis the Fat of France, which occurred in 1138. Common sense suggests that these three events, not very important to Santiago except in the case of Alfonso el Batallador, must have been recent. Supposing for a moment that Aymery who gave the book wrote it and the three hymns that bear his name, then (i) since he knew the men working on the roads in 1 1 20, he went by that year; (2) since chap- ter xxi in Turpin's Chronicle relates how Charlemagne gave to Santiago all the rights of Primacy, it would be most useful at the time (11201124) when Archbishop Diego was trying for that rank; (3) the style of chapter ix of the Guide, written avow- edly by Aymery the chancellor, is precisely like that of all the others, so there is evi- dence for supposing a single author and Deaths of Kings Hypoth- eses AND MONOGRAPHS 68 WAY OF S. JAMES if Aymery came to Santiago as a poor clerk in ii 20 he could still rise to be chancellor by 1130, D. Diego had done as well as that or better; (4) the attributions of the other Hymns in the Codex are plausible though not convincing: one comes from Poitiers, one from Vezelay, the Patriarch William of Jerusalem was a fellow-countryman of Dame Girberga's. There seems a fair presumption of Aymery 's good faith, and a probability that the date should be set in the eleven-thirties, where for his own rea- sons Gaston Paris put it half a century 6 ago. The forged authentication of Innocent II, on which, by the way, we depend for Not forgery but all we know of Aymery Picaud, is the politics: only piece in a different handwriting: it compare proves on examination not so bare-faced as Vol. III., p. 127 recent scholars would have you think. Of the signatures, only two profess to be auto- graph : one, and it is the first, that of Ay- mery the chancellor, who says the book is authentic and true, and sets his hand there- to. The next signer, Gerard, Cardinal of S. Croce, calls it precious and with his own I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE pen signs; the following five endorse the Pope or praise the book, no more; and lastly, Alberic, Bishop of Ostia (sometime abbot of Vzelay) approves, as "legalem et carissimum et per omnia laudabilem fore." 7 The known historical dates of the personages will fix the intended date of this document as between 1134 and 1140, which corresponds with all that can be known or inferred about the state of the building as therein described. Dr. Friedel, a competent palaeographer, 8 has conjec- tured that the hand in which the whole Codex is written (he makes no allusion to the changed script that Fr. Fita noted but judged to be still contemporary) belongs rather to the first than the second half of the century. If Aymery the poor scholar brought the kernel in 1120 when he came with Dame Girberga and here the kernel includes all but Book V, the account of the journey and while he was yet chancellor had the fair copy made, bringing the ac- count of the church up to date, then the original compilation would have come from France, have been compiled in the interest 69 What testimony AND MONOGRAPHS 70 WAY OF S. JAMES of the pilgrimage, would belong to the first third of the twelfth century, and Perhaps good Aymery's good faith would be safe from faith suspicion. Indeed the attacks upon it have been mostly copied from book to book without examination of evidence. The character of Aymery is my chief con- cern, as Turpin's Chronicle was that of Gas- ton Paris, and M. Bedier's was the Chan- sons de Gestes (while Dr. Friedel's I cannot make out), for I have kept company with him too long, and found his testimony too good, not to owe him at least a presumption of good faith. These are the chapters: The Guide i. Of the Ways to S. James the Apostle. n. Of the Stages of the Way of S. James by Pope Calixt. in. Of the Names of Cities on the Way of S. James. iv. Of the Three Hospices of the world. v. Of the Names of those who repaired the Way of S. James, by Aymery. I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 7i vi. Of Good and Bad Rivers which are on the Way of S. James, by Pope Calixt. vii. Of the Names of the Lands and the Sorts of People, that there be on the Way of S. James. vni. Of the Bodies' of the Saints that Rest upon the Way of S. James which are to be Visited by Pilgrims. ix. Of the City and Church of S. James the Apostle of Galicia by Calixt the Pope and Aymery the Chancellor. x. Of the Number of the Canons. xi. Of how Pilgrims are to be Received. Leaving the itinerary on one side for a moment, we may consider briefly the substance of these chapters. After telling Evidence over the principal stopping-places on the of two recensions way, with indications what they are like, and some repetition, as though Chapter ii and the original of Chapter vi might indeed have fallen into his hands as infor- mation already prepared, the clerk pauses and praises God for the three pillars that sustain God's poor in the world, which are AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S. JAMES Hospices and rivers three hospices, one at Jerusalem, one on the Mount of Joy, 9 and, third, that of S. Cristina in the Port of Aspe. He recites a litany of praise: Holy spot, house of God, refresh- ment of saints, repose of pilgrims, comfort of the needy, health of the sick, succour of the quick and the dead ! Next he relates the names of those who took care of the road from Rabanal to Puerto Mann in 1120, which affords the probable date for his famous pilgrimage, and adds a prayer that their souls may have rest and peace. The good rivers and bad he carefully reviews. Chapter iii was simply an en- larged and revised version of ii; in vi, on the other hand, the earlier notes (if such there once were) have dropped out, leaving what corresponds to iii, that tells what water is fit to drink and what is deadly, naming towns not elsewhere mentioned, like Torres and Castro de los Judios, which preserves still a tomb dated in the year noo: lastly a river a couple of miles from S. James, in a woody place, which is called Lavamentula because the pilgrims there wash their clothes and themselves. This is HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE in Aymery's best vein, and most char- acteristic. He concludes: "I have de- scribed the rivers that pilgrims going to S. James should study to avoid drinking the deadly and be able to choose those which are fit to drink." Then he frees his mind about all the folk amongst whom he passed on the journey: the Poitevins are heroes and warriors: men of Saintonge speak a patois but men of Bordeaux a worse: Gascons are vain of speech, ragged, drunken, and gluttonous. To the Basques he gives an entire treatise, and of their language, which sounds like the barking of dogs, nearly a score of necessary words. Once through Navarre and past the wood of Oca, the traveller comes out on Castile and the Campo, the north of the province of Val- ladolid. This happy land he loves for its foison of gold and silver, its stately houses and strong horses, provision for all seasons, bread and wine, meat and fish, milk and honey; but yet the woods are desolate. In the eighth chapter he deals with the saints along the way. Now the great saints who were travellers have always 73 Natives AND MONOGRAPHS 74 WAY OF S.JAMES been good to great travellers, and the pres- ent writer owes debts not alone to S. James To Saints be thanks in particular, and in general to S. Ra- phael, S. Roque, and S. Christopher, but also to S. Hilary for valuable information at a critical time, and to S. Julian of the North for harbourage in bitter cold. Therefore of their honours not one shall be omitted: I. To be revered by those who come through S. Gilles : S. Trophime at Aries, and S. Caesar, B. and M., S. Honorat B., at the Alyscamps. also S. Gines, [the player]. Also, all the blessed dead, more than a thousand, in the Alyscamps. Item, S. Giles himself, in his glorious sanctuary, [whose shrine is described at full length, for the imagination to figure what were the treasures of Romanesque art]. Four saints there are whose relics may not in any wise be moved [and they are all found upon this journey] to wit, S. James, the son of Zebedee, S. Martin of Tours, S. Leonard of Limoges. and S. Giles. [Here also was preserved another Parse of Fulbert's.) II. By those who come through Tou- louse: S. William who was a Count of I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 75 Charlemagne's: SS. Modestus and Flor- entia, S. Saturninus. III. For Burgundians and Germans, coming by Le Puy, the most sacred body is S. Faith's, V. M., at Conques. IV. The way by S. Leonard's begins really at S. Mary Magdalen's at Vezelay ; thereafter S. Leonard is glorified at great length: and S. Front at Pe"rigueux. V. Pilgrims from Tours will revere in Orleans the True Cross and the Shrine of Bishop Evurcius: then S. Martin, S. Hilary, S. John the Baptist, [who has left his name to S. Jean d'Angely but the Jesuits have left to his sanctuary only one arch and a buttress to hold it up]. Saintes, next, gives occasion for the long story of the Passion of S. Eutropius. At Blaye lies the Blessed Roland; at Bordeaux, S. Seurin; and in the Landes of Bordeaux at Belin, four peers of Charlemagne, Galdelbode of Frisia and Otger of Dacier, Arastagne of Britain and Garin of Lorraine. VI. The Spanish saints we shall en- counter m due course: S. Domingo de la Calzada, SS. Facundus and Primitivus, S. Isidore, and above all, S. James. and hon- our paid at their shrines AND MONOGRAPHS 7 6 WAY OF S. JAMES The Lord's house at the jour- ney's end So he ends with a prayer that their merits and their intercession may avail for us, and with a rolling Gloria, per infinita saecula saeculorum, Amen! The chapter which follows describes the church as Aymery saw it: this, by great luck for us, was before the addition of Master Matthew's porch. These sections are reserved for consideration with the history of the fabric. Then the author enumerates relics and treasures, with the same intent as his phrases of Basque: just as the Picard Manier copied out the inventory and preserved his own collection of Spanish words made for use at need. Plainly, this sort of literature constitutes a genre by itself, established and self-per- petuating long before Murray was born or Baedecker dreamed of. The closing chapter enforces the obliga- tions of evangelical hospitality, by a string of miracles that punished those who re- fused it. At Nantes a surly weaver saw his web miraculously rent; at Villeneuve, for a woman who denied that she had bread, her store was turned to stone. In HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 77 the case of two Frenchmen begging their way home, at Poitiers, close to S. Porchaire, all the street that refused a lodging was burned,but the firestayed at the house which took them in. On this testimony ends Book V: Ip sum scribenti sit gloria sitque legenti. To the roads, then, we return: Examina- Chapter I. Of the Ways to S. James tion of the road-book the Apostle: There are four ways which, leading to Santiago, come into one at Puente la Reyna in Spain. One goes by S. Gilles, Montpellier, Toulouse and the Port of Aspe: another by S. Mary of Le Puy and S. Faith of Conques and S. Peter of Moissac: another by S. Mary Magdalen of Vezelay and S. Leonard of Limoges and the city of Perigueux: another by S. Martin of Tours and S. Hilary of Poitiers and S. John of Ange"ly and S. Eutropius of Saintes and the City of Bordeaux. Those by S. Faith, S. Leonard and S. Martin join at Ostabal and passing the Port de Cize, at Puente la Reyna join the way that comes by the Port of Aspe. And one way thenceforth goes on to S. James. AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S.JAMES Alquimia - In experienced In the second chapter, that gives the stages and the time required, Aymery re- peats apparently what was told to him. From the Port d'Aspe (between Pau and Jaca) to Puente la Reyna is estimated as three short days' journeys: from the Port de Cize (by Roncevaux, between S. Jean Pied-du-Port and Pampeluna) to S. James takes thirteen days, some not long, some so long that they must be done on horseback. The Guide was written, of a truth, chiefly for those who go afoot. None of my mules or men, nor myself, of a truth, was able to push ahead of this itinerary, yet I am assured by one who knows that good walkers in training can do thirty miles a day on a long stretch, and that exceeds considerably the estimate of Murray's Ford for a well-used horse. From general experience I should say the stages are all possible, those indicated for horseback, from Estella to Najera and thence to Burgos, being the hardest, and the last three coinciding exactly with the personal recommendations of D. Angel del Castillo, who has walked all over Galicia. HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 79 The third chapter, Aymery's own, names and discusses the towns, indicates hospices, bridges and the like, with a memorial, for instance, of the spot where victor's lances burgeoned in green leaves, and a note on the cairns at Mount joy. For these he ac- counts by the pilgrims' custom of picking up a piece of lime-stone at Triacastela and carrying it to Castanola to make mortar for the building of Santiago. He explains that he has given these indications in order that intending pilgrims may calculate their expenses beforehand. His comment on the towns will be found generally along with the present author's and the complete tabulation of the route, according to the Book of S. James, among the Appendices in the last volume. There, that the curious reader may perceive how little the way has changed in eight centuries, are draughced some typical records of the stations: first Aymery's, that of the Chevalier de Caumont, who went to Compostella in 1417, and one from an English poem of about 1425: the broadside that Columbus's son bought AND MONOGRAPHS Cairns XIV, i 8o WAY OF S.JAMES Itineraries in the fair of Leon for twopence in 1535, which is entitled Le Chemin de Paris a Sanct Jaques en Galice, dit Compostille, et combien il y a de lieues de mile en mile. Follows that from the Reportorio de todos los Caminos, of Juan Villuga, Val- encian, printed in 1547, for the assist- ance of those who have an appetite to travel "for all," says he, "who come into this life are travellers" and though, as a Spanish proverb affirms, "Quien lengua ha, a Roma va," 10 yet delay and fatigue are inevitable where one misses the way even a little, and time and dis- comfort are saved by a previous knowledge of the certain and true road. Finally, he indicates the pilgrimages most in repute to the Six Angelical Houses, Monserrat, the Pilar, Nuestra Senora la Blanco, at Burgos (whom I do not otherwise know), Nuestra Senora del Sagrario at Toledo, and Her of Guadelupe, and Her of Pena de Francia that he may profit by the users' prayers and acquire merit through their gratitude. The Nouvelle Guide of French Pilgrims HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 81 of 1583, reprinted by the Baron Bonnault d'Houet, adds little even to the fantastic disguises that place-names take for an alien ear. The route of the Picard pilgrim Manier of Noyon, who made the journey in 1726, comes next in order: he, like the fantastical Pclegrino curioso in the seven- teenth century, offers entertainment by the way and figures in the chapters which follow: an Itinerary of Spain dated at Alcala, 1798, completes the series. The reader will see, having perused this volume as well, how little the journeys varied: how Estella, praised for bread and wine and all manner of good victuals in the twelfth century, still stirs regretful longings today; and how the eels of the Mino that were lauded by the Licentiate Luis de Molina at Puerto Marin, were served in a noble pasty to the traveller who now testifies. The road never changes. The English route from Pure has his Pilgrims is found in an early fifteenth century poem wh'ch Purchas took out of a MS. of Sir Robert Cotton's: it is most vile doggerel and contains seventeen hundred and fifty-four lines. It is headed: and itinerants Purchas his Pilgrims AND MONOGRAPHS 82 WAY OF S.JAMES Here beginneth the way that is marked and made with Mountjoies from the Land of England into Sent James in Galis, and from thence to Rome, and from thence to Jerusalem, and so again into England ; and the names of all the cities by their way, and names of their silver that they use by all these ways. 11 The account is excessively confused in places, but I have thought well to reprint and discuss the itinerary because it shows already in circulation the travellers' tales of a cleft in the mountain out of which come grievous cry ings and groanings. In Chansons des Pelerins de S. Jacques, which was reprinted by the Abbe Camille Pilgrims' Daux from sources which are none of them Songs earlier, I believe, than broadsides printed at Toulouse in 1615, Valenciennes 1616, and Troyes in 1718 (permitted, there, because already of great age) the data are probably much older than the form. Here you find, at the Mont-Etuves, in Asturias, the same terror, with cruel cold; and a Pont qui Tremble, before which the pilgrims said, one to another, "Comrade, I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 83 you go first." The songs, while they go to different airs, are much alike in substance and in tone; plaintive, interminable, strung and out with the itinerary of the journey, Canticle wailing on like the endless litanies that of Lourdes children's shrill voices sing on hot summer evenings, or like the Canticle of Lourdes with its sixty odd verses: Parmi les monts et praieries Nous chantions la Litanie, Ou quelque bonne chanson ; Et racontions a 1'envie Ce que nous scavions de bon. This was in the seventeenth century: al- ready since the fifteenth the old rough ways by Pyrenean passes were commonly disused, that by the Port of Aspe and that by the Valley of Roncevaux; and replaced by the coast road which runs by Bayonne, Irun, Vitoria, and then, through the defile of Pancorbo, turns aside in the mountains of Oca and comes out at Burgos. A great devour which they include is that to S. Salvador of Oviedo, one much recom- mended. A Spanish proverb says that to AND MONOGRAPHS I 8 4 WAY OF S. JAMES The Bridge of Dread visit S. James and omit S. Saviour is to call on the servant and neglect the master. It is here, in the mountains of Asturias and on the Cantabrian shore, that they place the more than half legendary Mont- Etuves and Pont qui Tremble. The latter Manier describes in his practical Picard literality: it is the name given to a sort of ferry where at one point the road crosses an estuary, and pilgrims and animals are conveyed together in what the railways call a "barge," big enough to take fifty at a time. The spray and the noise of the waves are alarming, hence by reason of the danger you are in (he explains) it is called Pont qui Tremble. Of this route from Oviedo to Compostella Sr. Villa-amil ' 2 says that the old highway between Villalba and Oviedo is still in good repair up to within four kilometres of Mondonedo. Also, ten kilometres to the south was an albergaria which was al- ready old in 1257. Beyond Mondonedo it continued by Villanueva de Lorenzana (formerly Villa de Ponte) : for this he cites the record of gifts and sales, one of 1578 HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE and the other 1571, which mentions by name the Camino francos where runs the modern road to Foz and Ribadeo. The Franciscan monastery of S. Martin de Villarente or de los Picas was in the fourteenth century a place to which came many pilgrims and romeros of those who go to the Apostle S. James. From Mon- donedo it goes by Goila'n to the parish church of S. Maria de Vian, at which forks the old road from Mondonedo to Castro- verde and Lugo. Beside S. Mary of the Crossways, here, was the much frequented chapel of the Trinity, and here, not long ago, was found a gold piece of Matthias Corvinus, lost by some pilgrim. From the first, thinks Sr. Villa-amil, the old Way ran to the north of Lugo, leaving what is now the province of Lugo by the Bridge of Garcia Rodriguez and by Puentedeume. Alfonso IX and S. Ferdinand often trav- elled on it. Only a few years before his writing (in 1878) there was not a road in the region, between the Madrid-Corunna highway and the coast, except those used by pilgrims first and now by Maragatos. Our Lady of the Crossways AND MONOGRAPHS 86 WAY OF S. JAMES There are traces, also, of another road that came in perhaps from the south, passed through Incio and reached Puerto Marin. Dozy 13 quotes a gloss from the Southerly route from Poem of the Cid that runs a line through Zamora Benavente: and L6pez Ferreiro publishes an itinerary 14 that comes up by Verin, Allariz, Orense, Lalin and so to Santiago by the coach-road. The question of the Roman roads can- not here be ignored, though it is more difficult than would appear to the classical scholar. Such roads exist still in Spain, long stretches of them in places. With sudden picturesqueness Quadrado, writing of Roman remains in the Vierzo, calls up one as he has seen it: Two and a half miles from Bergido, he says, on the military road that went to Lugo, in the skirts of a mountain, there survives an arch, and remains of buildings mark the site of an ancient village close to the junction of the Cabrera and the Sil, near the Bridge of Domingo Florez; but the Roman power is chiefly shown in the remains of the . I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE magnificent "street" [calzada] that may still be followed by the eye from afar, across the scrub, like the silvery wake of a ship on the broad sea. IS There is, of course, the A ntonine Itiner- ary, but until lately that has remained for most of Europe in the hands of mere schoolmen, creatures of pen and paper. The various authorities cited in the old edition, disagree rather fantastically about the actual places represented by the Roman names. It means very little to a German scholar that Interamnio Flavio may be Bembibre or may be Ponferrada, that Aquis Originis may be Chaves or may be Bafios de Bande, that Brigantium may be Betanzos or may be Ferrol, but if a man would look out the places on a large-scale map to draw lines between them, he might be annoyed by the divergent possibilities. It would matter a good deal to an engineer trying to survey, or to a traveller wanting somewhere to sleep and to put up his tired horse. When after Ad Duos Pontes, possibly Pontevedra, the next station, Grandimiro, is offered alternatively as Imperial Itineraries AND MONOGRAPHS 88 WAY OF S.JAMES Road- mapping in the study Camarinas on the Atlantic seaboard, or Mondonedo in the Cantabrian hills, even the purblind pedant might be shocked into a query, and into some faint recognition that the two towns are in opposite quarters of the ancient kingdom of Galicia. 1 6 Hitherto, then, the scholars have not shown up well beside the poets of the Chansons de Gestes or even the homely pilgrims and those who wrote down their stages for them. In 1892, however, Sr. D. Antonio Blasquez published a Nuevo Estudio sobre el Itinerario de Antonino, 17 which is plausible and recognizes the geography of the peninsula. Suffice it to note here that he identifies Lacobriga with Carrion de los Condes, and Interam- nio Flavio with Onamiol (a village too small to figure on Stieler's map); puts Roboretum in the Sierra de Roboredo, and sets down Brevis for Mellid. The one conviction that the mere student formed over the dusty book is not altered by this article, viz., a certainty that the Pilgrim road in Spaing unlike that to Canterbury, was not built on Roman foundations, except HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 89 in a few great segments, from Sahagiin past Leon to Astorga, for sure, and through the pass of Roncevaux to Pampeluna probably, and perhaps a bit through the mountains of Oca, toward Najera and eastward. The immense work of Konrad Miller, Itineraria Romano, which represents the labour of more than thirty years, and met long and anxious expectation at last in 1916, is not so satisfactory to consult as the cosmopolitan spirit could wish. Be- sides the crabbed and arid style, besides the tiresome affectations of German pedan- try, which irritate and arrest the reader at every step, the plentiful lack of punctua- tion, the abuse of abbreviations and super- abundance of conventional symbols, the contraction into unintelligibility of every word likely to recur often, so that the effect of the whole is as illegible and unprofitable as that of an undergraduate's notes, the author has had the happy thought of put- ting the names of Spanish towns, and indeed all modern place-names, on all the maps, in a German form and in German script. A German's vagaries AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S. JAMES Three Ways The traveller today has three different lines to trace, the Roman "street," the Camino francos, and the King's highway, the modern and admirable Camino real. They cross and part, coincide and diverge, in ways impossible to predict and not always explicable on the map. But on the spot all is plain: where the new road was built longer to run easier, or was turned aside to a new town, or wanted to tap the railway line. In a few places the old way is quite disused, in most it still persists as a short cut, sometimes foot-path, usually possible to the small-footed silken-skinned mules. At times it is a mere track across somebody's meadow, cut off by gates at either end; at times it is only a conjectural one among half a dozen trails that cross a moor. Some one, however, is always travelling on it: women who sit sideways as Queen Elizabeth rode, men who trot hard with long stirrup-leathers, like Don Quixote. Some one is always to be met, to give a direction or to pass a question on. The ways fill up with tiny moving figures on the days of cattle fair, or of the monthly HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 91 feria conceded by some dead king seven centuries or more ago. You have but to narrow your lids, and watch the pilgrims moving easily, not too slow, as they have always moved. The pilgrims set out from home at night- fall, "circa noctis crepuscula . . . pere- grinantium more": that made the first Twilight stage an easy one, and besides the practical, leave- there may have been a symbolic reason. taking The Grande Chanson says: Quand nous partimes Pour aller a S. Jacques, Pour faire penitence, Confesses avons nos peches. Avant que de partir de France, De nos cures, primes licence, Avant de sortir du lieu Nous ont donne pour penitence, Un chape let pour prier Dieu. Prions Jesus-Christ par sa grace. Que nous puissions voir face a face La Vierge et Sainct-Jacques le Grand. Conformably, in earlier centuries, either before they set out, or at a monastery the first night, the pilgrims confessed, made AND MONOGRAPHS I 9 2 WAY OF S. JAMES their wills, deposited their valuables and riiftc o * received, apparently as a gift from the V.T1I IS d.[ parting monastery, staff and scrip, blessed by the abbot. The rich abbey of La Grande Sauve, in Gascony, used to give a horse or a donkey. They had also to carry credentials of some sort from home: in 1671 Louis XIV required that the bishop should recommend the pilgrim and that the passport should be signed and countersigned by the king and a secretary of State. At Santiago the pil- grims confessed again, and communicated, and got other papers, for which they had to pay. For the return journey they set out in the morning, and some went then to Oviedo, some to the great southern shrines, some to Monserrat. Many, like the young Manier, pushed on to Rome, before they saw home again. I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 93 V ROMEROS EN ROMERIA Encore le voient li p&lerin assez Qui a S. Jacque ont le chemin tourne. Guillaume au Court Nez. IN a decree of a Spanish council, dated 676, cited by the Abbe Pardiac, certain limits are defined as follows: "one bound- ary runs to Futa and Alarzon, by the road which goes to S. James." The value of this reference would depend partly on the authenticity of the act, partly on the question what church of S. James might be intended. It seems not likely to have been that at Iria. Compostella was still in its original estate of a field under the stars "qua beati Jacobi corpus tune tem- poris latebat incognitum." Granting that the pilgrimage to S. James commenced only in the ninth century, yet there were AND MONOGRAPHS I 94 WAY OF S. JAMES Gdndara, Cisne Occidental, 11,258 pilgrims a plenty in Spain by the seventh and places famed for their resort. The Deacon Paul of Merida refers to many in the sixth century, and in 629, S. Fructuo- sus wrote, when founding the monastery of S. Martin de Sande: "Vobis fratribus nostris . . . concedimus reditus de Lusisi- no, in elemosinas et sustentationem hos- pitum et peregrinorum." The habit of pilgrimage in a sense is innate; in another sense, possibly it came out of the East, like so many folk-tales, to the troubled Europe of the early Middle Age. S. John Chrysostom says: "Qualem mercedem habet qui propter Deum peregrinatur, talem habet, qui suscepit peregrinantem; et fiunt ambo equales." The Council of Rheims in 625 decrees: "quicumque pere- grinari volunt illam (Eucharistiam) da viaticum suscipiant." In short, pilgrimage was common to all Europe: three special pilgrimages outgrew the others that of Jerusalem, that of Rome, and that of Com- postella. English readers will recall how similarly, among those to Walsingham, x Glastonbury, and a thousand wells, caves HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 95 and isles, that of Canterbury outstripped the rest by far. Chaucer, who sent his Knight on the Way of S. James, like Raoul de Cambrai and many another, put his "Whanne that finger on the motive in a passage so fragrant Aprile ..." of the mounting sap, so musical with the returning birds, that it breathes still as fresh as April airs: Then longen folk to gon on pilgrimages And palmeres for to seken straunge strondes To ferve halwes couthe in sondry londes. The precise date fixed by a Pastoral of the Archbishop of Santiago, in 1898, for the Invention of the Relics, is 813. "Char- lemagne," says the Gallegan version of Turpin's Chronicle, 2 "went on a pil- grimage to the Monument of S. James, and thence to Padron. And he flung his lance into the sea " at Finisterre Paul the Deacon has the same story of a Lom- bard Duke at Reggio,- 5 "and said that thence man could not further go. And the Gallegans, that were all turned to belief in God by the preaching of S. James AND MONOGRAPHS I 9 6 WAY OF S. JAMES The plough- land tax and his two disciples, and that had turned afte wards to the sect of the Moors, were baptized by the hands of Archbishop Tur- pin: and those who would not be baptized he put to the sword, or into the power of the christened. And this time the king conquered Spain from sea to sea," a profitable pilgrimage, not to be matched in times less fabulous. In recognition of the victory of Clavijo, Ramiro gave, in 872, to Compostella, for every measure of land recovered from the Moors, a measure of wheat and a measure of wine. In 1102, every yoke of oxen from Rio Pisuergo to the sea, paid a tax to S. James. I do not know how much this tax is still enforced. It was abolished in the great years of reform, in 1812 and again in 1835; but I have seen, at the feast of the Apostle, the King of Spain or his representative, offering treasure still before the altar, in a church thronged with pilgrims, among whom he moved as one Spaniard among others. It is hard to know precisely when, out of ail the tangled pilgrimages, that to S. Mil- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE Ian for instance and that to the San- tos Domnos at Sahagun, the journey to S. James attained a separate and higher importance. The early donations of Rami- ros and Ordonos to S. Facundo, to ensure the care of pilgrims, mean probably pilgrims that did not pass beyond. But Abbot Julian of Sahagun established, later, a hos- pice in his monastery purely for pilgrims of Santiago. Italians, and in particular Lom- bards, were protected during pilgrimages by a Capitulary of King Pepin, dated 782; " De advenis et peregrinis qui in Dei servitio Roma vel per alia sanctorum festinant corpora, ut salvi vadant et revertantur sub nostra defencione." This, again, is general. Alfonso III gave to the church of Orense, in 886, a donation for the receipt of pilgrims. The earliest reference unambiguous and authentic, that I know, to Santiago, is a casual one of Dozy's. 4 Abderraman II sent Al-Ghazal on an embassy to the King of the Normans not long after 844 and on his way home the Arab poet and diplomat turned aside to visit S. James, in company with the Norman ambassador, and fur- 97 Royal protection AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Arab testimc nished with a letter from the king to the lord of the land. He stayed there two months, very well treated, until the pilgrim season was over. Dozy has not apparently understood this, for he ren- ders "jusqu' a la fin de leur pelerinage," but it can only mean the other. He then went back into Castile with returning pil- grims, thence to Toledo, and finally reached home after an absence of twenty months. It is recorded that as early as 893 Pope Formosus made the pilgrimage to Santiago and also visited S. Julian of Brioude. By the end of the century it is not uncommon. Alfonso III the Great (866-910) came with all his family. In the early tenth century S. Genadius came: he that founded S. Pedro de Montes, and was plucked from his wilderness to administer the see of Astorga, and when he had done his day's work, fled back to the mountain again. Almaccari says that in the tenth century, to Compostella and Iria, came in pilgrimage Christians from Egypt and Nubia. 5 About that time, in 951, Godescalcus, Bishop of Le Puy, left his diocese to go and implore HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE afar the suffrage of S. James, and stopped going and coming at the Monastery of Albelda, where he had copied out in French S. Isidore's treatise on the Perfect Virginity of Mary. 6 In 961 Raymond II, Count of Rouergue, was killed on the road to Com- postella, as is written in the Book of the Miracles of S. Faith. S. Abbon, Abbot (988-1000) of Fleury, S. Benoit-sur-Loire, raised an altar to S. James. In his convent, immediately after his death (in 1005) was written the Great Legend of S. James, possibly by the monk Aymoin, his friend and pupil. It is more than likely that he had made the journey, since there is no record of relics acquired which would explain otherwise the especial devotion to that Apostle. The cities which claimed to possess relics are: Toulouse, Arras, Liege, Venice, Pistoja and Burgos. By the eleventh century a great move- ment was well begun. In the first half of it, S. William of Vercelli, at the age of fourteen, walked barefoot in his shirt to Santiago, S. Simeon the hermit, also; and S. Theobald quitted his home and with a 99 French devotion AND MONOGRAPHS IOO WAY OF S. JAMES Road- menders single fellow made the pilgrimage unshod. Under Ferdinand I (1033-1065), says Morales, 7 the pilgrimage was quite estab- lished, and miracles were happening all along the road. Don Sancho el Mayor, says the Silense, built roads for the pil- grims going to Santiago, in 1032, and opened a road in 1035 from the top of the Pyrenees to Najera: 8 and Alfonso VI, says Pelagic, in the Chronicle of the Kings of Leon, "stud- uit f acere omnes pontes qui sunt a Lucronio usque ad Sanctum Jacobum." 9 Building of bridges and mending of ways were good enough work, in the Middle Age, for the best of men. More than one saint broke stone on the roads. To this day the peones camineros, in Spain, are heritors of that great and noble labour; they are housed like soldiers; they wear a uniform and carry a number, like police; they work well, and look you in the eye, and will do you a kindness; they are in Government employment, unabashed. A Lombard Capitulary of 803 recalls to the clergy their duty in building and keeping up bridges, which is their peculiar work I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE "per justam et antiquam consuetudinem." Eudes III, Count of Touraine, in 1030 built a bridge over the Loire that led to the Tomb of S. Martin. In 1164 S. Benet the Less, S. Benezet, 10 founded the order of Hospitaliers Pontifcs, and his own little cell and shrine still stands on the ruined bridge over the Rhone, where they no longer dance "sur le pont d'Avignon." There were also Hospitaliers dc S. Jacques du Haul Pas, who must have lent their name to a church and street in Paris and who received a legacy in 1360, 1 1 and others, Hospitaliers of Lucca, in Italy, whose busi- ness was with bridges. Peter the Pilgrim, on the fifth of October, 1126, received a privilege from Alfonso VII to keep him while rebuilding the bridge over the Mino with the help of God and good souls. ' 2 We have from Aymery the list of those who at one time consecrated themselves to work- ing on the road of Santiago between Rabanal and Puerto Marin: Andrew, Robert, Alvito, Fortis, Arnald, Stephen, and Peter the last is Peter called the Pilgrim. x 3 S. Domingo de la Calzada got his name from 101 S. Benet the Less AND MONOGRAPHS IO2 WAY OF S. JAMES Order of Santiago Rule of S. Loy who shod the super- natural horse the work he did, and after his death S. Juan de Ortega carried it on, and ended in a chapel on a mountain pass, watching the ways. The order of Santiago was founded in 1172 and confirmed by a Bull of Alexan- der III in 1175, but it grew out of earlier use. The prior and canons of Loyo had, near Leon, on the Camino frances, a hos- pital called S. Marcos for the pilgrims of S. James. Always a canon of Loyo was in residence, to administer the hospital and give alms to pilgrims that passed by there. In time the institution declined and on petition was reformed, and again declined and they tried a prior and canons from Uccles. The original donation, with bridge and a good endowment, was made to the Bishop and Chapter of Leon by Dona Cristina Lainez and provided for a hospice and church for pilgrims. The convent was further enriched by the body of the founder and the first master of the order of Santiago, D. Pedro Fernandez, in 1 184. The epitaph reads: Mens pia, larga manus, os prudens, hace tria clarum, THE PILGRIMAGE 103 Fecerunt Caelo, et mundo te Petre Fer- nandi. Militiae Jacobi stitor Rectorque fuisti. So Militia Dei Sie te pro mentis ditavit gratia Christi. 14 Like the other Spanish military orders, this one fast outgrew its original intentions. Lastly, Ferdinand of Aragon took to him- self the Grand Mastership of this along with the other orders, and today it serves merely to lengthen the list of honours of rich gentlemen in Madrid and to dress out plump and handsome canons of Compos- tella in white, red-crossed, on feast-days. Nearly half a century earlier, Alfonso VI (1073), in taking possession of Leon and A King's Castile, said that, in order to do a good benefac- thing for his subjects and for other people, tion not only of Spain but of Germany, France and Italy, who by motive of religion were journeying to Santiago, he would suppress the tolls at Valcarcel: In the port of Monte Valcarcel there was a castle where all passers by paid toll, called S. Maria de Auctares, AND MONOGRAPHS I IO4 WAY OF S.JAMES and this supplied an occasion to molest and rob travellers, which had been the custom from the reign of his predeces- sors, whence resulted grave grievances for all who passed by that port, such, [said D. Alonso] that they cried to heaven , and in especial the pilgrims who went to Santiago, who were never heard in the Kingdom of Leon without male- dictions and indignation against this in- tolerable custom. He abolished the toll forever, that all, of whatsoever condition, could pass freely and without annoyance or inquietude, in such wise that this road to Santiago should be entirely free to pilgrims and even to those who carried merchandise, or went on any other busi- ness whatsoever. 1 5 He makes the offering by the hands of D. Pelayo, Bishop of Leon, to the honour and A Gallegan bishop glory of God and the Virgin Mary and the Apostle S. James, "In cujus ditione terra vel regimen eonsistit totius Hispaniae." Is it worth noticing that Bishop Pelayo was born and bred in Galicia? There were changes with changing times, belike, and some give and take, for in 1094 Bishop I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 105 Pedro leaves to Leon money for altar lights, and four pounds of incense for the altar of S. John Baptist, charged upon the revenues that the see had in Aguilar, in the bridge of Ardon, in Villela and in the church which was on the Camino francos. 1 6 The Council of Palencia, in 1129, pro- tected by identical penalties clerks, monks, travellers, merchants, women, and pilgrims all persons going peacefully and un- protected about their business. The Fuero of Daroca, 1142, grants a year's delay of any partition in which a pilgrim might be involved: "si in peregrinatione fuerit per annum expectatur"; and another law secures their goods: "bona peregrinorum non poseunt capi pro reprisaliis." The old use by which what a pilgrim had upon him fell to the town he might die in, was altered by the Siele Parlidas, which charged the bishop with searching out his heirs. The Siele Partidas are full of provisions for pilgrims against money-changers and inn- keepers, mayors of towns and lords of lands, robbers, and wars. The Church at the Council of Valladolid, in 1322, orders Ftteros and Siete Parlidas AND MONOGRAPHS io6 WAY OF S.JAMES Canons and Constitu- tions rector and parish priests to receive chari- tably the poor religious and the pilgrims, and where there are special houses provided for that use, to make sure that they are prepared conveniently to fulfill the hos- pitality for which they were designed. One other enviable privilege should not be overlooked: the Constitutions of the Uni- versity of Salamanca, in 1422, declare that a lawful cause for which a professor may be excused from reading (i. e. giving his courses), is that of "peregrinationis ad limina Sancti Jacobi." Ferdinand I, Alfonso VI and the Cid all went on that road. Of the first, the Chronicler of Silos says, "he loved the poor pilgrims, and took great care to harbour them." An old painting of the Cid in Burgos showed him with the cockle-shell at his girdle. Murguia affirms 17 that the Archives of Santiago possess, unpublished and even to scholars unknown, a circum- stantial account of the journey made by Pope Calixtus II to Spain in order to visit the body of the saint. This visit has been denied by scholars hitherto. HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE In the second third of the twelfth century the Maestrescuela of Compostella, Ramiro, writing to his friend S. Aton, Bishop of Pistoja, begs him to reply promptly, send- ing either by the Easter pilgrims, or else by those of the Ascension. These scraps of old letters will convey, perhaps, more than any studied episode, the sense of the magni- tude of the pilgrimage. The Roman priest who was a Cardinal of Santiago, Deusdedit, writes the same recommendation in the matter of a chasuble: it will be sent best by the Easter pilgrims. When AH-ben-Yussuf, the Almoravide, sent an embassy to Dona Urraca about 1 121, the ambassadors were amazed at the throngs of pilgrims who choked the road. They asked the subaltern detailed to escort and assist them, the Centurion Peter, as the Latin Chronicle calls him: "Who is this the Christians so revered, for whom so great a multitude comes and goes, from this side and the other of the Pyrenees, so that the road is scarcely cleared for us? " And Peter answered with a fine gesture: "He who deserves such reverence is S. James, 107 Ramiro the Maestre- scuela Peter the Centurion AND MONOGRAPHS io8 WAY OF S. JAMES Quercy to Brag a The Lion- hearted whose body there is buried, revered as pa- tron and protector by Gaul and England, the Latin and the German land and all Christian parts." Toward the end of the eleventh century a noble of Quercy, who was a Benedictine monk in the abbey of Moissac, was fetched by Archbishop Bernard to Toledo, made chantre and then Archbishop of Braga, still, at that date, metropolitan of Santiago, finally martyred in 1109. He constitutes another tie between Santiago and Langue- doc, if such were