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A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN’S BAY
AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA.
CAMS
‘goandsrp won ‘d01 DNOWV ,,OLLOUV,, AHL.
WS A
WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN’S BAY
—_——__
AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA.
AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE RESCUE OF THE
CREW OF THE “POLARIS.”
C
BY ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, F. R.G. 8.
006
COMMANDER ROYAL NAVY.
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
Ny,
REAR-ADMIRAL SHERARD OSBORN, C.B., F.R.S.
SECOND EDITION.
HON DON:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, AND SEARLE,
CROWN BUILDINGS, FLEET STREET.
1875.
[All rights reserved.|
CHISWICK PRESS ;-—PRINTED BY WHITTINGHAM AND WILKINS, —
-TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE.
PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION.
HE present season appears an appro-
priate time for presenting to the public
! a second edition of my ‘“ Whaling
Cruise to Baffin’s Bay.” Those who
have always had the interests of Arctic research at
heart must indeed be gladdened at the recent deci-
sion of Mr. Disraeli’s Government. The English
nation, having had its energies aroused, and having
listened to the counsels of its eminent men of
science, and to the urgent entreaties of the sur-
viving Arctic explorers, has at last deemed it ex-
pedient to revive the subject of Polar exploration.
The flag of England, the glorious Union Jack, will
in a few short months be again unfurled within
the Arctic zone, and displayed, it is confidently
hoped and anticipated, in a high northern latitude,
if not at the North Pole itself.
Experience has done much for us, and with the
vi Preface to Second Edition.
able assistance and advice of such men as Admirals
Richards, McClintock, and Osborn, the Arctic Ex-
pedition of 1875 (in which I am proud to say I
have been one of the officers selected to take part),
under the command of that experienced and dis-
tinguished officer Captain George 8. Nares, will be
dispatched with every regard for the comfort and
well-being of its members, and with every, even
the minutest, detail considered that is likely to
ensure its success and safe return.
The successes that have of late years been
achieved by the gallant explorers of other nations
in the ice-bound regions of the North, have no
doubt materially hastened the present determina-
tion to equip and send forth an expedition on such
a scale as will defy competition or failure.
We regard Arctic exploration as work peculiarly
our own, the birthright of Englishmen, bequeathed
to us by a long list of Arctic heroes, containing the
names of such men as Davis, Hudson, Baffin, the
Rosses, Parry, Franklin, and Back; and we have to
thank those bold and daring foreigners who have
recently returned triumphant, after undergoing
unheard-of hardships and privations, for having
aroused within us a friendly feeling of rivalry,
enhanced by their successes, stirring up the ex-
piring embers of our ambition, and rekindling the
flame of emulation which appeared to be dying
out.
«
Preface to Second Edition. vii
The announcement that instructions had been
issued for the equipment of an Arctic Exploring
Expedition was received in the Navy with un-
bounded delight and enthusiasm. There was no
want of volunteers from all classes. Numbers were
willing and eager for Arctic service, and grievous
indeed was the disappointment of those whose
applications were perforce rejected. We have
only to look back, and not very far, to those who
have served amidst the ice floes of the Arctic re-
gions, for proofs that such a service is unrivalled,
in these piping times of peace, as a school for the
training of good and able officers. Our great Nel-
son himself received his initiation into that service
in which he was destined to immortalize himself, as
a midshipman in one of the ships composing a
North Polar Expedition.
I have only to invite my readers to peruse the
Appendix at the end of this volume, the exhaustive
Memorandum compiled by the Arctic Committee of
the Royal Geographical Society, enumerating the
beneficial results that will accrue to science gene-
rally by the dispatch of an Arctic Exploring Hxpe-
dition, to show the important results to be derived
from such an enterprise.
The lucrative whaling trade owes its foundation
to Arctic voyages of discovery; and if a new field
should be discovered wherein the brave fellows who
were lately my shipmates would be able to pursue
vill Preface to Second Edition. :
with advantage their daring and hazardous trade,
the benefits arising from the contemplated voyage
will be still further increased. The profits of the
whale fishery during the last three or four years
have been unusually large and the casualties ex-
cessively small, results which are principally due to
the wonderful advantage gained by the use of steam
power. It is true that during the past year two
whalers have fallen victims to the unyielding ice,
but in neither instance was there loss of life. The
“Tay” was crushed by the ice floes in Melville
Bay, and the dear old “ Arctic” succumbed to the
irresistible pressure of the ice on the scene of her
exploits of 1873 off Cape Garry. I have had the
pleasure, on more than one occasion, of meeting
my late jovial and kind-hearted captain since he
returned to this country, after the loss of his ship.
A new “ Arctic” has been built for him. She is
without exception the finest whaler afloat. May
all success attend him in his new.ship, and may he
speedily reap the reward of his indomitable pluck
and energy.
The remains of the poor old “ Arctic” lie, at
any rate, in the neighbourhood of good company.
Not ten miles from where she was crushed are the
remains of H.M.S. “ Fury,” wrecked in 1824;
further to the southward the veteran Sir John
Ross, in 1831, was compelled to abandon his little
Preface to Second Edition. ix
craft the “ Victory;” and not sixty miles to the
S.W. the ill-fated ships “ Erebus” and “ Terror”
were abandoned in 1848, after the death of their
leader the gallant and noble-hearted Franklin.
In conclusion, I venture to recall the words of
one to whom the palm of Arctic discovery has
unhesitatingly been accorded, and whose high
northern latitude, reached by him nearly fifty years
ago, has never been approached by known man.
I allude to the late Admiral Sir Edward Parry,
who, speaking of the N. W. passage, says: ‘ May it
still fall to England’s lot to accomplish this under-
taking, and may she ever continue to take the lead
in enterprises intended to contribute to the ad-
vancement of science, and to promote, with her
own, the welfare of mankind at large. Such enter-
prises, so disinterested as well as useful in their
object, do honour to the country which undertakes
them ; even when they fail, they cannot but excite
the admiration and respect of every liberal and
cultivated mind; and the page of future history
will undoubtedly record them as in every way
worthy of a powerful, virtuous, and enlightened
nation.”
I feel sure that these words will find a response
in the heart of every true Englishman ; and I trust
that my readers, in bidding “God speed” to the
Arctic Expedition of 1875, will do so in the belief
x Preface to Second Edition.
that no efforts will be wanting to make its results
contribute to the advancement of science, and do
credit to our country.
Apert H. MarKHam.
21, Eccleston Square,
February, 1875.
—
Walrus Shooting.
DEDICATION.
TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
SIR oH. BARTLE FRERE, G.C.8.1., K.C.B., D.C.L.
President of the Royal Geographical Society.
Dear Sir Barrie Frere,
=>5\|HEH permission to dedicate this narra-
| tive of a whaling cruise to you, as
President of our Society, is specially
J oratifying to me, because it encourages
me to hope that you will treat this effort to further
the great cause of Arctic exploration with indul-
gence, and that you will overlook the numerous
shortcomings of so experienced an author. My
intention is to convey, to the utmost of my ability,
accurate information respecting the operations of
that fleet, commanded by daring and adventurous
seamen, which annually navigates the Arctic seas.
It is an auspicious circumstance that, in these
days, as in the days of old, a distinguished Indian
xii Dedication.
administrator should be one of the leading advo-
cates of Arctic discovery.
Many of the names in the Arctic regions, espe-
cially those at the head of Baffin’s Bay, including
that of the strait which will eventually lead us to
the Pole, recall memories of the founders of our
Indian Empire.
Smith Sound is named after the first governor
of the East India Company; Jones and Wolsten-
holme Sounds and Cape Dudley Digges are called
after the most active promoters of Indian trade ;
and Lancaster Sound after that gallant seaman
who made the first voyage to India for the old
company.
Moreover, several of our predecessors in Arctic
exploration gave their lives for the service of the
Hast India Company.
John Davis fell fighting for it m the Sea of
Japan, and that glorious old navigator Baffin was
killed whilst taking sights on an island in the Per-
sian Gulf.
Indian and Arctic navigators united very heartily
in the olden times, and the connection between
India and the far north at the present day is, if pos-
sible, even more intimate. For the skilful seamen
with whom I was shipmate this summer, and the
ryots of Bengal, are engaged in two branches of
the same industry, the welfare of the one depending
very closely upon that of the other.
Dedication. xili
The jute manufactory, which gives employment
to many thousands of industrious ryots, is depen-
dent for its existence on the success of the whale
fishery, animal oil being necessary for the prepa-
ration of the fibre. So that it is peculiarly appro-
priate that a statesman who has devoted his whole
life to the welfare of India should now be among
the foremost in advancing the cause of Arctic dis-
covery.
HKarnestly trusting that the efforts of the Council
of our Society, under your Presidency, to secure
the despatch of an Arctic exploring expedition may
bear fruit, if not in 1874, at least in 1875, I remain,
with warmest wishes for your success, my dear Sir
Bartle,
Yours very sincerely,
Apert H. Marxnam.
H. M. S. “ Sunray,”
Lisbon,
December, 1873.
ay 5
xf df) 5 7
Minne 1t cons
; os
SS CES
CONTENTS.
Page
REFACE to Second Edition . : : Vv
Dedication . ‘ ; : . Seid oa
Introduction by Rear-Admiral Sherard
Osborn, C.B., F.R.S. ‘ : SEY,
Cuarter 1.—T'He DunpEE WHALERS.
Subjects of the work, page 2; Master Beste’s introduction, 3 ;
Progress of the whale fishery, 4; The cargo of a whaler,
5; List of Dundee whalers, 6; The “ Arctic” whaler, 8
Seale of :pay, 11; Duties of the crew, 13; Kindness re-
ceived in Dundee, 14.
Carter II.—** SPANNING ON.”
Our departure, 17; Mustering the crew, 18; ‘“ Dulse,” 19
My messmates, 20; Home sickness, 21; “ Store day,” 21;
Dirty weather, 22; Blowing a gale, 23; Cape Farewell,
24; Equipping the boats, 25; Directions for whaling, 30;
Collisions with the ice, 31; Killing a seal, 32; The crow’s
nest, 33; Bottle-nosed whales, 35.
xvi Contents.
CuHapter IL].—TuHE SoutH-weEst FIsHine.
Edge of the pack ice, 36; Sighting the whales, 37; A fruit-
less attempt, 38; We strike a whale, 39; Excitement on
board, 40; Pursuing the fish, 41; Cheerful anticipations,
42; Disappointment, 43; Superstitions of the crew, 44; A
fish captured, 45; We sight icebergs, 45 ; Attempt to take
soundings, 45; Effects caused by refraction, 47.
Cuarrer LY.—* FLINCHING” AND ‘* MAKING-OFF.”
Capture of a whale, 49; Preparations for bringing alongside,
51; The operation of flinching, 53; The whalebone, 54;
Good effect of the capture, 55; Capture of a bear, 56;
“ Making-off,’ 57; Fulmar petrels, 61; Surrounded by
ice, 62.
CuHarter V.—NavicaTIon oF Davis’ Strats.
Icebergs, 63; Sir Martin Frobisher’s third voyage, 65; Dan-
gerous navigation, 67; Heavy snow showers, 69; Remark-
able iceberg, 70; The captain’s “lucky penny,” 71; The
midnight sun, 71 ; Dangerous ice floes, 73; Huge icebergs,
73; Perils of Arctic navigation, 74; Crossing the Arctic
Circle, 77 ; Letters from England, 78.
CHartER V1I.—Disco.
Disco, 79 ; Visit to the Inspector, 81; An Esquimaux dance,
82; The settlement of Lievely, 83; Native dwelling-
places, 85; Esquimaux men, 86; Women, 86; Traditions,
87; An excursion inland, 89; A perilous descent, 91;
More mishaps, 92 ; Departure from Lievely, 93.
Contents. . Xvil
Cuarter VII.—UPrernivik AND MeEtvittr Bay.
Omenak, 94; Arrival at Upernivik, 95; The blacksmith, 96 ;
Native dogs, 97 ; Ice anchors, 98 ; Departure from Uper-
nivik, 99; Icebergs, 100 ; Approach to Melville Bay, 100 ;
Difficulties of navigation, 101; Dangers of Melville Bay,
102; Fatalities to whalers, 103; Variations im the seasons,
104; The North Water, 105; Periods of detention, 105;
A “strong ale wind,” 107; A “ mollie,” 108 ; Position of the
ship, 109; Boring through the ice, 109; On the look-out
for a “lead,” 111; Little auks, 112.
Cuaprer VIII.—Tsr Norte Water.
In the North Water, 113; A good year for discovery, 115 ;
Thick clusters of rotges, 116; Whales in August, 117;
Foul weather, 118; On the fishing ground, 119; A “ mol-
lie” on board, 119; Best route to the North Pole, 120;
View of the shore, 121; Attempt to release ourselves, 122 ;
Beset in the ice, 123.
Cuaprer [X.—Mrppte Ice Fisuine.
A capture, 126; Despatch of our prey, 127; Hoisting the
carcase on board, 128; A cool bath, 129; Wounding a
walrus, 130; ‘ Making-off” the blubber, 131; Chase after
narwhals, 132; A valuable prize, 133; Narwhals, 134;
Attempt to surprise a seal, 135; A whale heard, 136;
Fatiguing chase, 137; A fortunate prize, 138; Voracity of
the “ mollies,”’ 139.
CHaprer X.—Morre WHALES AT THE MrippteE Icr.
The “ Erik” visited by Esquimaux, 140; News of the
“Polaris,” 141; A young bear shot, 142; Attempts to get
up Lancaster Sound, 143; Another successful day, 144;
b
xviii Contents.
The whaling fleet beset, 145; A disappointment, 146 ;
State of the ship, 147; Another “ fall” called, 148; Kill-
ing a whale, 149; Monotony of whale fishing, 150.
CHarrter XI.—DLANcASTER SouND AND Barrow Strait,
Esquimaux seen, 152; Off Navy Board Inlet, 152; Arctic
birds, 152; White whales, 154; Another “fish,” 155; A
narrow escape, 156; Off Port Leopold, 156; Rough
weather, 158; A pleasant change, 158; Sour grapes, 159;
I am appointed boat-steerer, 160; Awkward predicament,
161; Towed by a whale, 162; In Barrow Strait, 163; A
whale run down, 164; A tale from Frobisher, 164; Dirt
of the ship, 165; Dangerous position of the ‘t Narwhal,”
167.
CHAPTER XII.—Portr Lerorox.
Cape Seppings, 169; Port Leopold, 170; Sir James Ross’s
expedition, 170; Kennedy’s expedition, 170 ; McClintock,
170; Records, 171; The graves at Port Leopold, 173;
Good sport, 175; Poetry by Sir John Ross, 176; View of
Beechey Island, 176; Sir James Ross’s house, 177; State
of the provisions, 177; My first fast fish, 179; Towing a
dead whale, 180; Condition of ship and boats, 181; Volun-
teers for an Arctic expedition, 181.
Cuaprter XIII.—Tue ‘* Ponaris” ExPEpition.
Meet the “ Ravenscraig,” 183; Crew of the “ Polaris,” 184;
Boats’ crews received on board the “ Ravenscraig,” 185 ;
Half the crew received in the “Arctic,” 186; Captain
Hall, 187; The other officers, 187; Dr. Bessels, 187; Re-
markable run of the “ Polaris,” 188; Ice at the farthest
northern point, 189; Discoveries, 190 ; Tidal observations,
191; Inhabitants of the far north, 191; Drift of the ice,
Contents. xix
193; Winter quarters, 193; Death of Hall, 193; Arctic,
animals, 194; Plants and fossils, 195; Separation of the
boats, 196 ; Second winter, 197; Resources of Dr. Bessels,
198 ; His opinions, 199.
CHarteR XI V.—AGAIN IN BaFrin’s Bay.
“Fish” seen, 201; Hazardous position on the ice, 202;
Shooting a bear, 203; Rain, 204; Deep-sea soundings,
205; Foegy weather, 205; A beautiful day, 206; And
night, 208°; Inactivity, 209.
Crirter X V.—Apuriratty INLET.
Volunteers for an Arctic expedition, 210; Inaccuracy of
charts, 211; The Bartle Frere glaciers, 211 ; Esquimanx,
213; Pond’s Bay natives, 213; A hasty departure, 215:
Capturing narwhals, 215; Fishing along the floe, 216;
Land about Elwyn Inlet, 217 ; Taking in water, 218; Ad-
miralty Inlet, 218; Foggy weather, 219.
CuHapterR X VI.—PrincE ReEGEnt’s: INLET.
Off Cape Craufurd again, 220; Inaccurate coast line, 220; A
day of adventure, 221; Knocked overboard by a whale,
224; We revenve ourselves, 224; Off Port Bowen, 226:
Captain’s idea of returning by Hudson’s Bay, 226; Pass
Fury Beach, 228 ; Unsuccessful chase, 229.
CHaprer X VIL.—Fury Bracu.
Land at Fury Beach, 231; Parry’s third voyage, 232; Aban-
donment of the “ Fury,” 233; The Rosses at Fury Beach,
233; Lieutenant Robinson and Mr. Kennedy at Fury
Beach, 235; Allen Young at Fury Beach, 236; State of
boats, 237; Description of the “ Fury’s” stores and gear,
237; Examining a grave, 239; Interesting relics, 239;
Sailors’ curious fancies, 240.
xx Contents.
Cuartrr XVIII.—Care Garry.
A large bear, 242; Precarious position, 244; Position of
Cape Garry, 245; Soundings, 245; Sword-fish, 246; An
unlucky day, 248 ; Succeed in killing a fish, 249 ; Success-
ful expedition beyond Cape Garry, 249; Remains of Es-
quimaux village, 250; Walk into the interior, 251; Rein-
deer, 252; Conveying our game to the boat, 253 ; Return
on board, 254.
CHarteR XI X.—HomEwarp Bounp.
A full ship, 255; Homeward bound, 256; Decision of the
crew, 257; A monstrous bear, 258; Another bear, 260;
Signs of rough weather, 260; A gale, 261; Brighter pro-
spects, 261; Prospects of an open season, 262; Chase after
a bear, 264; Grounded icebergs, 265; Communicate with
the “ Victor,” 265; A brilliant parhelion, 266.
CHAPTER XX.—CoNcLUSION.
Abreast of Home Bay, 268; Annoying detentions, 269 ;
Dreary prospects, 270; Slow progress, 271; Get into the
Hast Water, 272; Prepared to cross the Atlantic, 273 ;
Fairly on our way home, 273; Painting the ship, 275 ;
Pentland Firth, 276; Off Peterhead, 276; Valedictory,
277 ; Conclusion, 278.
APPENDIX A.
Approximate value and size of whales captured during the
voyage of the “ Arctic” in 1873, 279.
Note on the boiling down of the blubber, 280.
APPENDIX B.
Arctic plants collected by Captain A. H. Markham, R.N.,
281.
Note by Dr. J. D. Hooker, C.B., President of the Royal
Society, 282.
Contents. xxi
APPENDIX C.
List of geological specimens collected by Captain A. H.
Markham, R.N., and examined by R. Etheridge, Esq.,
Museum of Practical Geology, 283.
AppENDIx D.
List of birds shot, 285.
APPENDIX Hi.
Memorandum for the Arctic Committee of the Royal Society
(June, 1873), on the Scientific Results of an Arctic Expe-
dition, 286.
Whale (Balena Mysticetus).
ioe :
raat
De }
CES On thw Ss LEATEONS.
SEPARATE ENGRAVINGS ON Woop.‘
S|HE “ Arctic” among ice 2 Frontispiece.
The “ Arctic,’ with boats fast to a fish.
To face page é : :
Danish settlement of Lievely (Disco)
Upernivik
Port Leopold
The “ Bartle Frere ” glacier
Adventure with a whale .
Adventure with a bear
ENGRAVINGS IN THE TEXT.
Scott Cliffs—a favourite fishing-ground
Hand and gun harpoons
Harpoon gun .
“Mik” .
Flinching knife, six-foot lance, and swivel harpoon.
Seals on the ice. : : : .
Iceberg : .
Eglinton Inlet—a favourite resort of the whalers in
Davis’ Straits .
Whale (Balena mysticetus)
Blubber spade
Pick-haak
2 8.6 a List of Illustrations.
Page
Twisted harpoons . : é 5 : ; Pmt
Clash and elash-hooks . : : : : Et OS
Fulmar petrels, or “mollies” . : ‘ ; eOO
Iceberg . a : ; ; : ; é noe,
Iceberg . catenins : 5 é ‘ e604:
Cape Warr endes ; ; F , : é Rawat:
Esquimaux dog 5 : ; : 5 . - . 98
Little auks . : : ; ; : : Pipe 3
Bear sleeping . ; : : ; . : . 124
Narwhal and bear . , 5 : ; 3 . 134
Walruses , : : : * B : be ls)
Dalrymple Island . : ; : é 2 Meee ei
Walrus shooting. : ; i 5 Sera
Looms . ; : : ; : i al Oras
Long-tailed ae ; , : : : 5 Se,
Meeting of “Arctic” and “Ravenscraig” off Cape
Craufurd : : 5 Ses : 22 lee
“ Ravenscraig ” off Cape York, and boat of “ Polaris” . 186
American discovery ship “ Polaris” . i , . 198
Pond’s Bay . ; , : ; : : sre
Esquimaux dogs. F 5 214
Prince Regent’s Tle Hahe “ Arctic” fishing at the Mike
of the floe a : : : ; A ae i
Iceberg . ; : ; : : ‘ ; . 2380
King ducks. A ; 3 : : ‘ 2 2a
Deer’s head. 3 : : 5 4 5 | 2p4e 5
Cape Hay . : ; : ; : : = +, 20915
Bear and white whale . : : : : «2638
Arctic fox . : 4 : : : , aS
ee Voliites!’.) Si. : : : 3 : eee:
Map. {
Illustrating Captain A. H. Markham’s voyage in the “‘ Arctic,”
1873. Compiled by HE. G. Ravenstein ‘ At end.
INTRODUCTION.
HE following narrative, by Commander
| Albert H. Markham, of a whaling voy-
age in the Arctic regions in the Dundee
steam whaler “ Arctic,’ will, I feel
sure, be read with much interest by all who relish
an unadorned tale of adventure,’ and awaken sur-
prise amongst the large section of the British
community who take note of progress in Arctic
exploration. The voyage of the “ Arctic,”
apart
from the boldness and skill with which her dashing
captain, William Adams, pursued his mighty and
valuable prey through ice, storm, and dangers,
proves in a remarkable manner how much the in-
troduction of steam power in whaling ships has
1 Captain Markham was appointed to H.M.S. “ Sultan”
before he had been three weeks in England, after his return
from the Arctic regions; and his journal has been printed, in
his absence, almost exactly as it was written from day to day,
when the incidents it records were fresh in his mind.
XXvi Introduction.
reduced the risk formerly incident to navigation in
Baffin’s Bay and Barrow Straits.
We have the “ Arctic” committing herself yolun-
tarily to be beset in Davis’ Straits until there were
some fifty miles of heavy pack between her and
open water ; and then, when no more whales were
to be found, gallantly fighting her way by steam
power through the interlaced ice-fields until the
clear sea was again reached. We find that middle
ice, which for half a century has been the bugbear
of the whale fisher, when tackled by a vessel of 500
tons and 70-horse power engines, no longer spoken
of as an impenetrable barrier. The whaler under
sail thought himself fortunate in traversing it once
in every three years, with a vast expenditure of
labour, in from a month to sixty days. The “ Arc-
tic”? and her sister vessels have now for nine years
consecutively got through this middle ice under
steam in as many hours. We see the “ Arctic,”
in quest of her prey, passing point after point,
during a summer cruise, which for fifty years had
been the extremes reached by discovery expedi-
tions. Steam power has robbed the navigation of ©
those regions of nearly all its difficulties and much
of its risk. The “ Arctic,’ with her keen hunters
of the whale, dashes boldly past John Ross’s far-
thest in 1818; Sir Edward Parry’s farthest, im
Prince Regent’s Inlet, in 1825; Franklin’s winter
quarters at Beechey Island are reached ; Sir James
Pe ee
Introduction. . Xxvii
Ross’s farthest, at Leopold Island, in 1848, visited ;
and many another bay and headland in those re-
mote regions, which have taken seamen in sailing
vessels years of toil and hardship to attain, were
seen and visited by Commander Markham in a
summer’s holiday. It was no exceptional season
in which this was done. The “ Arctic,’ under
Captain Adams, has often made the same cruise, to
the profit of her owners and crew, and returns
again in 1874 to repeat the voyage.
When, in 1850, during the search for Franklin,
T had the good fortune to command the “ Pioneer,”
which, with the ‘Intrepid,’ were the two first
steam vessels employed in the Arctic seas, I fore-
saw and foretold the great revolution which steam
was about to effect in diminishing the risk of
Arctic navigation. It was impossible for us,
shackled as we were to our clumsy sailing con-
sorts (H. M. 8. “Resolute” and “ Assistance”),
to do much in illustration of my belief; but the
revolution has come even quicker than anticipated,
and from the shores of Great Britain, as well as
from those of the dominion of Canada, strongly
fortified steamers dash annually into the frozen seas
in search of the seal and the whale, and reap rich
and profitable harvests, without any risk of life,
and rarely with the loss of a steamer. Steam
yachts are now following in their wake, and Spitz-
bergen is becoming the summer field of many of
XxXvill Introduction.
our boldest sportsmen; and a trip to the Polar
regions is thought as little of to-day as a hunting
excursion to Norway, or a visit to Iceland, was a
few years ago.
Apart from all these facts, which a perusal of
Commander Markham’s narrative will bring vividly
home to the reader, there will be found a synopsis
of the remarkable voyage made by the United
States discovery vessel “ Polaris,’’ under the late
Captain Hall, up Smith’s Sound, at the head of
Baffin’s Bay. This information he was able to
’
procure from the officers of that ship, who were
picked up and brought home from her wreck by
our whalers during the past summer. It will be
remembered, that when England had completed her
part in solving the fate of the Franklin expedition
——a search which culminated in the voyage of the
“ Fox,” and in Sir Robert McClure’s great achieve-
ment in. passing from the Pacific to the Atlantic,
which laid open the entire geography of the regions
between those two oceans—Arctic discovery was
for a while allowed to rest.
But it was not so with our brethren in the
United States. They, fired by the achievements of
British explorers, and anxious to secure to their
countrymen the honour of being equally bold and
enduring, sent forth expedition after expedition
under Kane, Hayes, and, lastly, Captain Hall, in
the “ Polaris,” with a view to penetrate the great
Se ee
Introduction. XX1x
unknown area around the Pole by way of Smith’s
Sound. Of these expeditions the most remark-
able was the last. In 1871, Captain Hall entered
Baffin’s Bay in the month of August in the “ Polaris,”
a small, weak-powered steamer, by no means well
fitted for the work, with a scratch crew composed
of eight Germans, nine Hsquimaux, thirteen Ame-
ricans, one Englishman, one Irishman, and one
Scotchman. From Cape Shackleton, where the ice
is usually met with, in lat. 73° 30’ N., the “ Polaris ”
sailed and steamed without interruption to 82° 16’
N., a distance of 526 miles, and was then only
stopped by loose ice. The crew of the “ Polaris,”
when subsequently witnessing the way in which
the ‘‘ Arctic” steamed through similar ice, acknow-
ledged that a properly equipped steamer could
have passed through the barrier which stopped
their little vessel.
Those on board the ‘ Polaris” saw the strait
extending before them, with much open water and
land to the north and west, which they believed lay
in latitude 84° N., or within 300 miles of the Pole
of our earth. Wintering near their furthest point,
they found abundance of animal life, saw much
drift-wood of recent date, which must have come
there across the Polar Sea from the shores of
Siberia; and they found a tide coming from the
same direction, and report that the temperature
during the winter was considerably milder than
XXX - Introduction. —
had been experienced by American and English
expeditions which had had, on former occasions,
to winter in more southern latitudes. After the
death of Captain Hall, the men in this expedition
only thought of returning home, and were making
fair progress in that direction, when by an accident
in the autumn of 1872, a number of the crew were
swept away from the ship on an ice-field, which
eventually carried them down to the shores of
Labrador. They were saved by one of our sealers.
The remainder of the crew ran the ship on shore
at an Hsquimaux settlement near the entrance of
Smith’s Sound, abandoned her in the spring of
1873, with the intention of retreating in their boats
to the Danish settlements in Greenland, but were
picked up on their way by an English whaler and
so brought home.
We have therefore, from their information, cer-
tain proof of the navigability for steamers of Smith’s
Sound, of the facility with which a retreat can be
effected without loss of life, of considerable re-
sources existing there in animal life, of land lying
close to the Pole, and, from the tide and driftwood,
of a water communication across that great un-
known area.
In an appendix attached to this volume will be
found an elaborate report, to which nearly every
scientific body in this country has given its adhe-
sion, on the great advantages to science which an
Introduction. Xxxl
exploration of the Polar area would render; and
the information brought home by Commander
Markham proves how right the Royal Geogra-
phical Society has been in recommending Smith’s
Sound as the route on which a Polar expedition
should be sent, and shows at the same time how
large a measure of success may be anticipated,
as well as the comparative immunity from risk of
life.
Never was a fairer field open to Hnglish seamen
and adventurers to reap high renown and to keep
our country in the vanguard of geographical dis-
covery ; and I cannot believe that that spirit which
was awakened under the great Elizabeth can have
passed away in the reign of Queen Victoria; but
fervently trust, if our Government shrinks from its
undoubted duty, that private individuals will secure
to us the glory of being the first nation to have
traversed the Polar Sea, as .we have been foremost
in all that is great and glorious in so many other
parts of the earth.
SHERARD Osporn,
Rear Admiral.
Lonpon, December, 1873.
WSSVY
CHAPTER I.
THE DUNDEE WHALERS.
> |HE Arctic Regions have always been
CA
associated in my mind with that mys-
3
AN
terious and indescribable longing which
is usually connected with all things
difficult of attainment, and therefore most desired
and sought after.
Here perilous and exciting adventures await those
daring spirits who may devote their lives to the
acquisition of knowledge.
Hither our brave whale-fishers have annually
ventured for many years in search of that huge and
valuable cetacean, the capture of which is at once
so hazardous and so profitable.
In short, the Arctic Regions teem with every-
thing that renders travel exciting, and offer charms
B
2 Journal.
to the lovers of adventure such as are rarely met
with in any other part of the globe.
It was with no small amount of pleasure that I~
hastened to avail myself of an opportunity which
presented itself of proceeding in a whaler to the
Arctic Regions for the purpose of gaining experi-
ence in Arctic navigation, of witnessing the methods
of handling steam-vessels in the ice, and of collect-
ing information respecting the state of the ice in
the upper part of Baffin’s Bay ; which might prove
useful should an exploring expedition be hereafter
despatched from this country to the unknown
regions of the North.
While engaged on this interesting service I kept
a journal, noting each event as it occurred, not
trusting to or putting any faith in memory, but jot-
ting down any incident the moment I could find an
opportunity.
I am now anxious to convey to those who are
interested in the subject as clear an idea as I am
able of the work on board a whaler, and of the
perils and vicissitudes of a whale-fisher’s life; and
it seems to me that the best way of attaiming this
object will be to reproduce my journal as it at pre-
sent stands, to which will be added some further
particulars respecting the modern whale fishery,
and an account of the rescue of the survivors of the
ill-fated American exploring ship, “ Polaris.” Al-
though Scoresby, half a century ago, gave very full
eS ee ee ee
Progress of the Whale Fishery. 3
details respecting the whale fishery in the Spitz-
bergen seas, there have been many changes since
his days, caused by the invention of new appliances
and the introduction of steam. The story of the
northern fishery, as it is now practised, has not
hitherto been told in any detail.
In introducing this narrative to my readers, |
cannot do better than quote the words of Master
George Beste,’ the biographer of ‘ Martin Fro-
bisher’s Three Voyages for the Discoverie of find-
ing a Passage to Cathaya by the North West,” who,
in his dedicatory epistle to Sir Christopher Hatton,
apologetically remarks that his ‘‘intente is, more to
sette out simply the true and plaine proceeding and
handling of the whole matter, than to use circum-
stance of mere words, or fyne eloquent phrases
wherein if I should once goe about to entangle my-
selfe, it would doe nothing else but bewray my owne
ignorance, and lack of schole skyll. Therefore, of
me there is nothing else to be looked for, but such
playne talke and writing as souldiers and marriners
doe use in theyr dayly meetings and voyages, and
this of necessity must anye man use that will deale
with such a matter as thys is, although he were
curious to the contrairie.”
Before proceeding with my narrative, it may be
1 Master George Beste was the lieutenant of Sir Martin
Frobisher’s ship.
4 Progress of the Whale Fishery.
interesting to dwell briefly on the progress of the
whale fishery, which, in Great Britain alone, has
been prosecuted for more than 250 years.
Until the commencement of the present century
this lucrative trade was entirely confined (I here
refer solely to the capture of the mysticetus) to the
waters around Spitzbergen, which are commonly
called the Greenland fishery. At the present time,
with only one exception,’ the vessels engaged in
the Davis’ Straits and Baffin’s Bay fisheries are
from the port of Dundee, which place, during the
last eighty years, with fluctuating success, has car-
ried on this important branch of commercial enter-
prise.
During what may be considered the infancy of
the whale fishery, various Acts of Parliament were
passed by the Legislature for the encouragement
of the trade, and further support was given by the
Government, which offered a bounty of as much as
thirty shillings per ton on the burden of each ship
employed in the fishery. At the early part of this
century, and during the time those talented and emi-
nently successful whale fishers, the two Scoresbys,
were employed in the trade, there were no less than
one hundred vessels fitted out and despatched from
different ports in England, of which Hull, London,
and Whitby were the principal, and more than
1 This year a Norwegian steamer was up Baftin’s Bay.
The Cargo of a Whaler. 5
half that number from ports in Scotland, of which
Aberdeen, Leith, Dundee, and Peterhead may be
mentioned as the chief. In those days a cargo of
forty or fifty tons of oil would amply compensate
for the expenses of the voyage, and ninety: or one
hundred tons would be regarded as a most profit-
able and remunerative cargo. At the present time,
in consequence of the enormous expenses incidental
to steam-ships (all vessels employed in this trade
have now the advantages of steam-power), the price
of coal, and the enhanced value of all commodities,
unless a ship returns with a cargo of at least
seventy or eighty tons, her captain meets with any-
thing but a warm and hearty reception from his
employers. ‘The trade at the present time, at least
as far as regards Great Britain, appears to be en-
tirely monopolized by Scotland, no port in England
contributing a single ship for the prosecution of the
whale fishery, and Dundee and Peterhead being
the only two ports in Scotland.
No less than ten fine and powerful steam whalers
leave Dundee annually for the fishery in Davis’
Straits, all commanded by experienced and intel-
hgent men. (See next page.)
They usually proceed to sea about the beginning
of May, and after passing Cape Farewell, a fort-
night or three weeks is devoted to what is called
the south-west fishing, in the neighbourhood of
Frobisher’s Straits to the northward of the coast of
List of the Dundee Whaling Fleet.
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Departure and Return of Whaling Fleet. 7
Labrador. Afterwards the whalers proceed up the
east side of Davis’ Straits and Baflin’s Bay, to Mel-
ville Bay, that dreaded and in many instances fatal
locality. If successful in making a passage through
this hazardous bay, the ship emerges into the north
water, when her course is altered to the westward
as much as the state of the ice will admit, until she
arrives ou her fishing-ground at the entrance of
Lancaster Sound or off Pond’s Inlet. Here the
fishing is prosecuted with energy until July, when
the whales are sought for up Lancaster Sound as
far as Prince Regent Inlet. The whales, whose
habits are most migratory, are then followed, dur-.
ing the months of August and September, as far
south as Home Bay, and even as far as the Gulf of
Cumberland, when the approach of winter warns
the captain of the danger of remaining too long
in those sterile and inhospitable regions of snow and
ice. The return of the whaling fleet may be looked
for about the beginning of November. Occasion-
ally ships may arrive at an earlier date, as in the
case of the “ Arctic,’ which in 1871, in consequence
of unparalleled success, returned to Dundee during
the middle of August, and in 1873 was home by
the middle of September. These are, however,
rare and exceptional occasions. As a general rule,
they seldom return until five or six months after
their departure.
The ships engaged in the whale fishery are all
8 The * Aretic” Whaler.
most substantially built, doubled and fortified by.
the application of timber and iron both imside and
out. On each side of the stem are angle irons, or
plates of iron so placed as to protect the forefoot
from injury when coming into contact with heavy
floes, and also enabling the ship more readily to cut
or break through any ice of a penetrable nature.
The whalers are generally ship-rigged, which I
consider to be a great mistake,’ a barque being far
more handy, and they vary from three to four
hundred and fifty tons burden. The “ Arctic”?
is a vessel of 439 tons, having a 70-horse power
engine. She is the property of that eminent ship-
builder, Mr. Stephen, of Dundee.
In consequence of the reputation which the com-
mander of the “ Arctic” had acquired for dash and
enterprise, I selected her as the ship in which I was
to behold the grandeur of Arctic scenery, the deep
fiords of Greenland, the enormous glaciers stretching
for miles into the interior, the majestic icebergs,
sailing along in every fantastic shape and form, and
all those numerous sights only to be met in the
frozen regions of the North.
Having arranged terms with her wealthy and
1 As soon as the whalers arrive on their fishing-ground the
mizen topsail is invariably unbent and stowed away.
? Since this was written news has been received of the
total loss of the ‘‘ Arctie ” in Prince Regent Inlet.
The * Arctic” Whaler. 9
prosperous owners, I found myself on the 2nd of
May, 1873, installed on board, haying signed articles
as second mate to the effect that I engaged myself
“to serve on board the good ship ‘ Arctic’ on a
voyage from Dundee to Greenland or Davis’ Straits,
and seas adjacent, for whale and for other fishing,
and back to Dundee ;” and, further, that I agreed
to *‘ conduct myself in an orderly, faithful, honest,
and sober manner, and to be at all times diligent in
my respective duties, and to be obedient to the
lawful commands of my said master.” ‘The daily
allowance which I should receive of butter, cheese,
oatmeal, bread, beef, pork, flour, tea, sugar, lemon-
juice, water, and other stores, were previously read
to myself and the whole crew at the shipping
office. My wages were to be one shilling per month,
and I was to receive in addition the sum of one
penny for every ton of oil brought home in the
ship, and one farthing for every ton of whalebone.
The reason that I was appointed to such a respon-
sible and lucrative situation was, that as the whalers
have no licence to carry passengers, anyone wishing
to travel in a whaler is compelled to sign articles as
one of the crew. That ceremony completed, he is
free to do as he will, and to enjoy himself according
to his own fancy and inclination.
Our captain is a kind, jovial, good-tempered
man; and these qualities, added to his daring en-
terprise and great success during the time he has
10 The “ Arctic” Whaler.
commanded the ‘ Arctic” at the seal and whale
fisheries, render him deservedly popular with all
ranks and classes, and enable him to enlist a good
crew, with efficient and experienced officers.
Our ship’s company are a fine sturdy set of fel-
lows, evidently intending work if they get the op-
portunity. A fourth part comes from the Shetland
Isles, one man is English, one a Norwegian, and
the remainder are Scotchmen, principally High-
landers. One of the Shetland men is both deaf
and dumb, but is most willing, and is a fair sailor.
He rejoices in the appellation of “ Dummy.”
Ships employed in the whale fishery have a com-
plement of men according to the number of boats
with which each ship is provided, so that when
actually engaged in the capture of the huge monsters
of the deep, all boats may be despatched fully
manned, leaving two or three hands on board for
the purpose of working the ship. Our complement
in the “ Arctic,” including the captain and myself,
was fifty-five souls.
In order that all the men on board may take an
interest in and use their utmost exertions for the
furtherance of a successful issue to the voyage, each
individual, according to his position in the ship, is
paid a per-centage upon the amount of cargo brought
home, their regular wages being small. This will
account for the ease with which a successful whaling
master is able to man his ship. The statement on
Rating.
Master
Mate !
Second mate
Doctor
Speksioneer !
Engineer . ,
Second engineer
blacksmith -
Carpenter.
Carpenter’s mate
Harpooneers
Loose harpooneers
Cooper !
Ship-keeper
Boatswain 2
Skeeman 2
Boat-steerers
Line-managers .
Cook
Steward
Cook’s mate
Firemen
A. -B.’s
Ordinary seamen
Boys .
Myself
1
Scale of Pay.
|No. in
each
jrating.
Monthly
pay.
25)
SO
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and
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oS
ns
Norr.—The speksioneer is the’ officer under whose direc-
tion the whale is cut up.
This word is derived from the
Dutch “ spek,” meaning blubber. Skeeman is the officer who
of the
blubber in the tanks, and is adopted from the Dutch “ schie-
superintends between decks the “ stowing away’
man,” the captain of the forecastle.
1 Also harpooneers.
2 Also boat-steerers.
12 Pay of the Crew.
page 11 comprises the usual scale of pay allotted to
officers and men serving on board whalers.
In addition to the above wages there is also a
bonus paid to each one of the crew composing the
boat that first strikes a whale, provided the fish is
afterwards captured, and is what is termed a “ pay-
able fish.’* The harpooneer in this case receives
10s. if he gets fast with the gun harpoon, 10s. 6d.
if with the hand harpoon, and £1 1s. if with both,
each member of the boat’s crew receiving 2s. 6d.
This is termed “ sticking-money,” or “ fast-boat
money.” * It is also usual for the master to receive
£1 for every payable fish struck by a bond fide har-
pooneer, and £3 for those struck by a loose har-
pooneer, whose position may be looked upon as a
harpooneer in embryo, or on probation, and who
generally holds that office for a couple of years,
or until he has proved himself, to the satisfaction
of his captain, to be a willing, persevering, and
dexterous officer.
The duties of the crew of a whaler are allotted
according to the abilities and qualifications which
1 By “ payable fish” are meant all those fish whose whale-
bone is six feet and over in length.
? No “sticking-money” is awarded for the capture of a
fish whose bone is under six feet. The whalebone is regarded
as the most valuable part of a fish, its price at the present
time being about £500 per ton! A large whale of ten or
eleven feet bone will yield a ton of whalebone
Duties of the Crew. 13
the men possess as fishermen. Thus the har-
pooneers attend to the conning of the ship during
their watch on deck; the two mates and the spek-
sioneer (who are also harpooneers) are in charge of
the watch ; the boat-steerers attend to the ropes on
the forecastle; the line-managers to those round the
mainmast and also to the cleanliness of the ship
between decks; the boatswain, who is also a boat-
steerer, is held responsible for all work aloft; the
skeeman, who is the head line-man and also a boat-
steerer,1s responsible for everything between decks,
and it is also his province to superintend the stow-
ine away of the blubber. The remainder are the
fore-mast hands, who make themselves generally
useful where required. So that, to sum up our
crew on board the “ Arctic,” we have eight har-
pooneers, including the mates and speksioneer, eight
boat-steerers, including the skeeman and boatswain,
and eight lime-managers. The rest of the crew man
the boats. When all boats are away from the ship,
there remain on board the captain, doctor, engineer,
ship-keeper, cook, and steward. Hach boat (we
were supplied with eight) has a crew of six men,
five rowers and one to steer. No rudders are fitted
to the boats; a steer oar, in consequence of the
rapidity with which, by its means, a boat may be
swept round, being invariably used. The har-
pooneer is in charge of the boat, and pulls the bow
oar. It is his duty to strike the fish. The linc-
14 Kindness received in Dundee.
manager pulls the stroke oar, and it is his province,
with the boat-steerer, to see the lines coiled away
clear, and to attend them when running out, after a
fish has been struck.
Having thus given a short account of the interior
economy of a whaler, I will, in the following chap-
ters, endeavour to describe the cruise of the good
ship “ Arctic,” during her seventh trip to Baffin’s
Bay, in search of that great and unwieldy ceta-
cean for whose capture so many bold seamen
annually penetrate the mysterious regions of the
North.
During my short stay in Dundee, whilst negotia-
ting the terms of my passage, | was most hospi-
tably entertained by several of the leading citizens
of that prosperous town, amongst the most promi-
nent of whom I cannot refrain from mentioning the
names of ex-Provost Yeaman,' Mr. McNaughten
the Dean of Guild, and Mr. David Bruce, the
manager and agent of most of the vessels com-
prising the Dundee whaling fleet. From these
gentlemen I received the utmost attention, and was
treated with the greatest kindness and courtesy,
which rendered my stay in their town both agree-
able and pleasant.
1 On my return it was with great pleasure I heard that
during my absence this gentleman had been elected by a large
majority to represent the town of Dundee in Parliament.
Kindness received in Dundee. 15
I take this opportunity of expressing my grati-
tude to them for their very kind and cordial recep-
tion of me, and for the valuable advice and assist-
ance which I have subsequently received at their
hands during several flying visits to Dundee.
Scott Cliffs—a favourite fishing ground.
CuHaptTer II.
Or aN NENG ONS
EDNESDAY, April 50th, was the origi-
nal day named for our departure from
Dundee; but owing to delay in the
arrival of our coals, our sailing was put
off until Saturday, the 3rd of May.
We were ready, and might easily have proceeded
to sea, on Friday, but the old sailors’ superstition,
with which our crew was fully imbued, against sail-
ing on that day, deferred our departure until half- —
past six on Saturday morning, at which time, with
steam up and colours flying at each masthead, the
* Arctic,’ surrounded by a small crowd, and with
her head pointed between the dock-gates, was lying,
waiting only for the order to “ go ahead,” to start
on her seventh trip to Baffin’s Bay.
I had but just time to bid a hasty farewell and
jump on board before the necessary orders were
issued—the engines went ahead, three cheers were
Our Departure. L¢
given by those assembled on the quay, feebly re-
sponded to by the sober ones on board. A photo-
grapher on the pier-head took a hasty shot as we
turned to go out, and we all felt that we had at last
started on our cruise.
As a general rule, the departure of a whaler is
marked by the total incapacity of the crew to per-
form any duties whatever connected with the ship,
in consequence of the numerous parting glasses of.
which they have partaken with their friends and
acquaintances, and the bumpers that have been
drained to the success of the voyage.
The scene on board an outward-bound whaler
on the eve of departure has been described to me
as one both filthy and disgusting. Jam very glad
to be able to state that, at any rate for this voyage,
the “ Arctic’s”’ crew are an exception to the general
rule, the captain informing me that he had never
put to sea before with such a “good and sober
crowd.”
Those who were suffering from the effects of
* over-indulgence had the good sense to keep below,
where they were allowed to remain undisturbed
until the effects of their carouse had worked off.
Steaming down the Tay, we stopped off Broughty
Ferry, at which place the captain allowed himself a
brief leave-taking with his wife ; and having landed
all visitors and friends that had accompanied the
ship thus far, the boats were hoisted up and
©
18 ~ Mustering the Crew.
secured, by half-past eight our pilot was discharged,
and, shaping our course to the northward, we
steamed along the red sandstone cliffs of Forfar-
shire. Passing Arbroath and Montrose, the shore
assumed a more rugged and sterile appearance ; the
wind, which was adverse, had considerably fresh-
ened, and our progress was in consequence neces-
sarily slow. In order to avoid a wasteful expendi-
ture of fuel, the captain very wisely determined ©
upon anchoring off Aberdeen ; but being unable to
obtain the services of a pilot, and darkness having
set in, we continued our course to the northward.
At 3 a.m. the following morning we brought up off
Peterhead, to await more favourable weather.
Shortly after leaving Dundee, the ship’s company
was mustered on the quarter-deck by the captain,
and those who were able to answer to their names
were divided into three watches, under the first and
second mates and speksioneer respectively. A few
words were addressed to them, and, after giving
three cheers for the captain, they were dismissed.
Monday, May 5th—We are now fairly away. ©
We left Peterhead at noon yesterday, the wind
having subsided, and with a light 8. E. wind and
a beautiful clear moonlit night, passed through the
Pentland Firth. This bemg accomplished, by way
of supper I was initiated into the mysteries of
“‘ whelks,”, and having by the skipper’s advice
smothered them well with vinegar, mushroom-
© Dulse.” 19
ketchup, and pepper, found them by no means un-
palatable.
Another favourite edible of our worthy captain
is a seaweed called “ dulse,’* which is picked up in
large quantities on the beach at Broughty Ferry.
This is kept ina bucket of salt water on the after
part of the quarter-deck, so as to enable those so
disposed to refresh themselves at their pleasure.
At noon to-day we lost sight of Cape Wrath, and
are all looking forward to a quick run across the
Atlantic. We are fortunate in having a fresh N. EH.
wind, before which the “ Arctic” is very lively and
also very wet.
I have quite shaken down to the life on board.
Everything is rough but ready, and I am treated
by all with the utmost civility and attention. My
messmates in the cabin are:—The master, a fine
honest, good-hearted specimen of a whaling cap-
tain ;” James Bannerman, the mate, a strong, active,
daring, and hard-working officer; Tom Webster,’
" “ Dulse,” a corruption of the Gaelic duclliog, from duille
(leaf) and wisge (water). The name is applied to several
species of rose-spored alge, and especially to Rhodomenia
palmaia and Jridea edulis. In Ireland it is called dillesk.
Lindley says that the old cry, “‘ Buy dulse and tangle,” may
even now be heard in the streets of Edinburgh; and dulse is
consumed in considerable quantities throughout the maritime
countries of the North of Europe.
2 Since promoted to the command of the “ Ravenseraig.”
3 Everybody on board the “ Arctic” was called by his
Christian name, a habit which I soon adopted.
20 My Messmates.
second mate (though entered as chief harpoonecr),
an old and successful harpooneer, who had made
upwards of thirty voyages to Baffin’s Bay; Andrew
Graham, our doctor, an enthusiastic admirer of
nature, and a medical student at the Hdinburgh
University ; John, our engineer, an uncouth, rough
and unpolished black diamond; Peter, the second
engineer and blacksmith; and Jack, the steward.
Our meal hours are breakfast at eight, dinner at
twelve, and tea at five. In consequence of the
limited accommodation afforded in the cabin, we
are compelled to have a relay of each meal. Occa-
sionally the skipper, doctor, and myself sit down to
a supernumerary meal at about 10 P.m., consisting,
now the whelks have all disappeared, of lobsters, or
cheese and grog, or something equally unwhole-
some and indigestible, but over which the skipper
cracks his jokes, spins his endless yarns, and we
talk over the events of the day.
It was with no little atxiety—a feeling which
has now subsided to one of interest and wonder—
that I watched the dexterous manner in which some
of my messmates would perform the apparently
impossible feat of eating eggs with a large knife.
Forks are decidedly at a discount, every one going
on the principle that fingers were made before those
useful articles. If we happen to have a joint on the
table with the smallest particle of a bone protrud-
ing, this is at once seized by the hand of the carver,
Tee So ee ee
Home Sickness. OE
whilst large junks are cut off and handed to us.
On the whole, our living is rough, but certainly
substantial. Itis amusing to remark the different
degrees of “home sickness” with which my mess-
mates are variously affected. Some are in the
highest spirits, apparently pleased at the idea of
being their own masters and getting away from the
thraldom of a jealous and ill-tempered wife; others
are in the lowest depths of despondency, and one
confidentially informed me, a few hours after our
departure from Dundee, whilst talking of his better
half, that the “ puir bodie would tak’ on so,” and
that by that time “she would have cried a pint of
tears.”
To-day is what is termed “store day,’ when
each of the crew has served out to him his share of
provisions, excepting meat, generally to last for
two or three months.
The men are not put into regular messes, as on
board of a man-of-war, but each man receives his
own allowance, which is kept either in his sea-chest
or bunk.
Cooking is allowed to go on all day and all
night, and the galley fire is never let out during
the whole cruise. The relief watches are always
turned up half an hour before their watch com-
mences, which time is supposed to be devoted to
the fortifying of the inner man. When a ship
arrives on her fishing ground, it is not unusual for
22 Dirty Weather.
a boat or boats to be sent after whales and to
remain away for eighteen or twenty hours, hence
the necessity for obliging each man of the watch to
refresh himself before coming on deck.
Thursday, May 8th.—An unpleasant, showery
day, accompanied by a heavy head swell. The
wind failing at noon, steam was raised and _ sail
taken in. We have already passed two of the
Dundee whalers, which we imagine to be the
“Camperdown” and “ Narwhal.” It is very pro-
bable that we are now the leading ship of the fleet,
notwithstanding five having sailed from Dundee
before us, as two, the “ Intrepid” and “ Ravens-
craig,” have to call in at the Shetland Isles to com-
plete their crews. This is the first day that we
have been able to enjoy the services of our cook,
who is only just recovering from his last day on
shore. One of our crew had a slight attack of
delirium tremens this afternoon, otherwise they are
all well, and confidently look forward to the pros-
pect of a quick and prosperous voyage. They are
busily employed fitting and preparing the different
tackles and purchases used for hoisting in the
blubber, and also in fitting Jacob’s ladders (which
are small rope ladders with wooden rungs), eleven
of which are always kept over the side to enable
the men to jump quickly on board from the ice, or
when returning in the boats.
Saturday, May 10th.—Blowing a fresh easterly
Blowing a Gale. 23
gale, before which the ship is going nine and ten
knots. A wet, drizzly day, with a lower tempera-
ture than we have experienced since leaving Hng-
land. We may at any moment expect to fall in
with icebergs, and extra men are placed to look
out day and night. A collision with one at our
present speed would not be very desirable. The
captain does not expect to make any ice until we
are off Cape Farewell. No signs of the other
whalers were visible to-day. We have completely
run them out of sight. The ship is decidedly not
comfortable in wet weather, as her decks leak like a
sieve from the continual straming; and both the
main cabin and my own are in a constant state of:
drip, which, to say the least, is most annoying.
The upper deck also at sea, even in moderate
weather, is rendered unpleasant for exercise, in
consequence of the ship having open water-ways
runuing fore and aft, which appear more useful in
admitting the water than in taking it off. These
little annoyances will not, however, be of long
duration, as we are making good runs, and in a
short time shall have crossed the Atlantic and be
in the smooth water of Davis’ Straits.
Our days are monotonous enough, and I shall
not be sorry when we arrive at the 8. W. fishing,
where, amongst whales and ice, there will be much
to see and learn. At present one day is the very
counterpart of another. We have the same meals
24 Cape Farewell.
to go through, generally the same description of
food to eat, the same jokes by our skipper, and the |
same stories to listen to, enlivened occasionally by
an Irish song, a recitation from Shakespeare, or a
reading from Artemus Ward.
Monday, May 12th.—Last night was the most
wretched and uncomfortable we have passed since
being at sea. Not only was the ship knocking
about in an unpleasant manner, but, not having
obtained sights for three days, we were all a little
anxious regarding her position, especially as we
were running along at the rate of eleven knots.
At 2 a.m. land was discovered on our starboard
bow, a capital land-fall, and at half-past seven I was
enabled to take a rough sketch (though at the
distance of about thirty miles) of Cape Farewell,
the Staten-huk of the Dutch, and of Cape Desola-
tion, the Cape Farewell of the Dutch. It was a
fine clear morning, enabling us to get a good view
of the distant land, which appeared bold, bleak,
and rugged, and seemed to consist of a number of
sharp, conical-shaped black hills, covered, where
the summits were not too peaked, with snow. The
strong contrast of the black and white gave the
land a most sublime and picturesque appearance.
The wind, which had lulled considerably, was blow-
ine directly off the land, causing the temperature
to fall several degrees. We may consider ourselves
very lucky in getting round the cape with such
Spanning on. 25
charming weather, as it is a curious fact that ships
seldom pass Cape Farewell without some little
_touch of dirty weather. The day is really beautiful ;
we seem to have suddenly emerged into a totally
different climate, cold, but with a bright sun and
clear sky. We are now fairly in Davis’ Straits,
and, taking advantage of the fine weather, active
preparations for the capture of whales have been in
progress the whole day. All hands have been as
busy as bees, employed in the operation of spanning
on,' which literally means attaching the lines to the
harpoons, and coiling them away in the boats.
The first operation was to get the boats out, which
are always stowed in board for the passage across
the Atlantic ; and before sunset we had six boats,
three hoisted up on each side, ready to go away at
a moment’s notice. After the lines are served
out—everybody, from the captain downwards, beng
employed—it is quite a race as to which boat
shall be first equipped, the crew that has been most
expeditious giving three cheers on the completion
of its work.
The manner in which the harpoons are fitted is
first with about twelve fathoms for a gun harpoon,
and three for a hand harpoon, of the best white
untarred hemp rope (24 in.) ‘The end of this is
1 From the Dutch aanspannen, to put the horses to the
carriage.
26 | Equipping the Boats.
spliced round a thimble in the former, and round
the shank of the latter. This rope is called the
fore gore or fore ganger.’ It is stronger and more
supple than ordinary rope. ‘To the other end of
the fore gore is spliced the remaining whale lines,
of which there are five in each boat, of 120 fathoms,
the united length of which is over 600 fathoms,
Gun Harpoon.
or a little more than half a mile. These whale
lines are made of tarred rope (23 in.) of the
very best quality. The boats having been first
thoroughly cleaned, the lines are carefully flaked
down in the stern sheets, in a compartment specially
set apart for that purpose, with the exception of
100 fathoms, which is flaked down in a box in the
centre of the boat, called the fore line beck.2 A
portion of the line last put into the boat, of a few
fathoms in length, is called the stray line. It lies
1 From the Dutch voorganger, he who goes before another.
2 Beck from the Dutch bak, a trough, locker.
Equipping the Boats. 27
fore and aft in the boat, and is always ready for
running out. The fore gore is coiled down in a
small tub or kid, which is kept in the bows of the
Harpoon Gun.
boat alongside the gun. Aprons or screens made of
painted canvas on which the boat steerer stands
are kept over the lines to protect them from the
wet, The harpoon gun is fixed on a swivel in
the bows of the boat, and can easily be traversed
round, depressed or elevated by the har-
pooneer. ‘The harpoon belonging to the
gun is placed on the port side of it, and
the hand harpoon on the starboard side,
with its handle resting on a mik,' or crutch,
ready for immediate use. The harpoons
are made of the softest Swedish iron,
which is more pliable than English, so
that they may readily bend without
snapping, when any strain is brought to
bear on them. yy
VALCO Cs CO)
AS R >: De © ty 5 J
Say f , | * (hy
CHAPTER IV.
“FLINCHING” AND “MAKING OFF.”
Z\T length, after several near “ shaves,”
Gin I am enabled to chronicle the capture
of a whale, and to describe the sub-
sequent operations connected with the
cutting up or “ flinching” of the fish.
At four o’clock this morning a whale was seen,
and a couple of boats lowered and sent in pursuit,
but the chase was apparently abandoned shortly
after five, the captain looking into my cabin, and in
forcible terms expressing his opinion, that notwith-
standing his having ‘‘turned his horse-shoe” yester-
day, we were going to have no luck this cruise. He
then went to bed. At half-past seven our ears
were assailed by that cry, which is such sweet music
to all on board a whaler, “ A fall! a fall! ”. accom-
panied by the usual commotion ondeck. Hurriedly
putting my coat on, being in the act of dressing at
the time, I hastened up and found that the spek-
E
50 Capture of a Whale.
sioneer was again the lucky man, having struck a
fine fish, which was rapidly towing him towards the
edge of the pack ice. Our boats were soon in the
water, and in less than twenty minutes the unfortu-
nate fish had six harpoons buried in its body. In
the mean time I had retired below to complete my
toilet, the scanty manner in which I was attired
Whale (Balena Mysticetus).
being ill adapted for remaining on deck with the
temperature four degrees below the freezing point.
On my return to the upper deck, the loose boats
were observed alongside their prey in the act of
administering with lances the coup de grace, on
receiving which the huge monster turned over on
its back and expired. The flags in the fast boats
were then struck amidst the cheers of the men both
in the boats and on board the ship. Theloose boats
were at once recalled to the ship, their crews, after
the boats had been hoisted up, being busily em-
ployed in making the necessary preparations for
a. rae nee
a
‘0g abn
«¢HSM 5, V OL ISVd SLVOd HALIM ,,‘OMLOUV,, THL
66
Sz =
Preparations for bringing Alongside. 51
flinching and taking in the blubber. The crews of
the fast boats were engaged in hauling in and coil-
ing away their lines, which on the death of the
whale are always cut at the splice of the fore gore.
Itis usually the duty of the crew of the first fast
boat to prepare the whale for coming alongside. The
preparations consist in cutting a hole through each
fin, for the purpose of receiving the fin-tow, and
lashing them together across the belly of the fish.
This is done in order that they may offer no obstruc-
tion in the water whilst the fish is being towed
alongside. The tail is then roused up to the bows
of the boat, and in this way the fish is brought to
the port side of the ship, and there secured in the
following manner. ‘The fish is always brought
alongside with its tail forward abreast of the fore
chains ; it is thensecured by means of a tackle from
the fore rigging, which is hooked to a strop round
the small end of the tail (where it is united to the
back of the fish), and by a stout rope, which is
called the “rump rope.” A similar purchase is
hooked from the main rigging to a strop rove
through a hole cut in the extremity of the under
jaw, which is called the “ nose tackle.’ The right
fin of the fish (which is next the ship’s side, the
whale being on its back) is dragged taut up and
secured by a chain or rope to the upper deck, the
bulwarks of the vessel on the port side being un-
shipped. Between the fore-mast and main-mast is
52 The Operation of Flinching.
a stout wire rope, called the “ blubber guy,” having
four large single blocks stropped to it, through which
are rove the fore and main spek tackles: (five-inch
rope). The former is usually worked by the steam
winch, and the latter by a hand winch near the
main-mast. These tackles are used for hoisting on
board the large layers of blubber, some between
one and two tons in weight, as they are cut off.
From the main-mast head is a heavy purchase
called the “ kent’? or “‘ cant”’ tackle, which is used
to turn the fish over as it is being flinched. It con-
sists of a treble and a double block, having a seven-
inch fall. Hverything being in readiness, the crew
are turned up, and haying been primed with a glass
of grog all round, commence the operation of flinch-
ing. Two boats, called ‘ mollie boats,” attend upon
those engaged in cutting up, and are kept alongside
the fish by a couple of hands in each boat, who are
named ‘‘ mollie boys,” the lines having been care-
fully covered over with boards to prevent injury.
The captain, from the port main rigging, superin-
tends the whole process; the mate in the gangway
acting under his orders. The remaining seven
harpooneers, under the guidance of the speksioneer,
are on the whale, and with their blubber spades and
knives separate the blubber from the carcase in long
' Kent, derived from the Dutch, signifying to “cant” or
“turn.”
‘4
q
4
The Operation of Flinching.
53
strips, which are hoisted in, as before mentioned,
by the fore and main spek tackles. Previous to
this, however, a strip of blubber, from
two to three feet in width, is cut from
the neck, just abaft the inside fin. This
is called the “ cant.”’ A large hole is
then cut in this band of blubber, through
which is passed the strop of the cant
purchase, and secured there by a wooden
toggle or fid being passed through. By
means of this purchase, brought to the
windlass, the fish is turned over as re-
quired. Hach harpooneer has iron spikes,
called “‘ spurs,” strapped on to his boots,
to avoid the possibility of slipping off the
fish.
The belly is the first part of the whale
that is operated upon. After the blubber
from this part has been completely taken
off and the right fin removed, the fish is
canted on to its side by means of the
large tackle, and the blubber from the
opposite side is similarly stripped. The
whalebone is then detached, special
bone gear being used for this purpose,
and the lips hoisted in, and so on until
all that is valuable has been cut off and
taken on board. The tail is then sepa-
rated from the carcase, or “‘ kreng,”
_
Spade.
as it is called,
SU sch, Phe Wihakebone
which latter being released disappears with a plunge,
the noise of which is drowned only by the cheers of
the men, the water being coloured with a sanguine
huefor some distance. The duties of the boat-steerers
during this operation are to cut up the large strips
of blubber as they are received on deck into pieces
about two feet square, with long knives. These
pieces are seized by the line managers, armed with
7? and transported below
“ pickies” or “ pick-haaks,
through a small hole in the main hatchway. Below
Pick-haak.
they are received by the “skeeman,” and another
man denominated a “king,” by whom they are
stowed temporarily between decks, until such time
as an opportunity may offer for performing the final
operation of “ making-off.”’
The whalebone, on being received on deck, is
split up into portions, each containing from nine to
sixteen blades, by means of large iron wedges, and
these are again divided into pieces of three or four
blades, when what is called the gum, which con-
nects them together, is removed. ‘There are be-
tween three and four hundred of these blades in
each side of the head.
1 A Dutch word.
Se Sea
;
a
Cheering Effect of the Capture. 59
The tail of the whale is cut up into blocks, which
are used during the process of ‘‘ making off,” form-
ing excellent blocks, on which the blubber is chop-
ped up into small pieces, thereby preserving the
edge of their instruments. It is customary for the
boat-steerer of the first fast boat to have the choice
of blocks, after which selection each man marks his
own by cutting his initials upon it, or otherwise
distinguishing it.
After the operation of fliching is concluded, the
upper deck, as may be imagined, is in a very filthy
state, and so slippery that unless great care and
caution are exercised whilst walking, a fall is in-
evitable. my senses by slipping on the greasy deck, that I
was really and truly on board a Dundee whaler.
Not a ripple ruffled the smooth water, which had the
appearance of a polished mirror, reflecting every-
thing that rested onits surface, and magnifying the
sea-birds that lay or paddled about on its bosom to
such a size, that they more resembled seals’ heads or
whales’ crowns, than our constant attendants and
scavengers, the greedy fulmar petrels. Loose ice
208 Inactwity.
lay dotted about in small clusters or patches, and
it would not require a great stretch of imagination
to represent these patches of ice as sheep huddled
together in numerous flocks, with here and there
single animals scattered about, straying from their
fellows, in a delightfully smooth and rich pasturage,
the greenish colour of the water materially assisting
the illusion. A few small bergs, raising their crests
a short distance above the horizon, might easily be
taken for cottages or shepherds’ huts, and thus
complete the landscape, while to add to the beauty
of this charming picture, there was a bright sun,
about five degrees above the horizon, yet not so lus-
trous but that it was possible to look at it without
pain to the eyes. Overhead there was a glorious
sky, what is generally termed a “ mackerel sky,”
the blue and white of which were gradually blended
together as they descended towards the horizon,
having rich tints of various bright hues, in regular
and separate layers, directly opposite and round the’
sun. It was truly a delightful night, but it is
utterly impossible for me to describe it so as to dos
any justice to the scene. To-day there is a hght
breeze from the southward, which makes the chance
of getting fish a little better. We have never,
since our arrival on the fishing-ground, been so long
idle, and it is all the more tantalizing, when we only
require four or five more whales to complete our
cargo, and enable us to spread our wings for a home-
ee ‘ de tee ee he Joly be ', if Fi, £3
ward flight. Our restless captain cannot, as I
anticipated, endure this protracted period of idleness,
and the engines are now throbbing away full speed,
_ and our head pointed in the direction of Cape Byam
Martin, whence we shall again proceed up the sound
_. and try our luck in Admiralty and Prince Regent’s
_ Inlets. With fortune on our side we may very
reasonably expect to fill our ship in ten or fourteen
days’ time, and then start for home.
Pond’s Bay.
CHAPTER XV.
ADMIRALTY INLET.
222\ULY 19th.—It is surprising how very
\ (2
=| popular an expedition of discovery to-
ey wards the North Pole appears to be
oo) with every one. Yesterday the mate
was inquiring, in case a Government expedition
started, whether there would be any chance of his
being appointed as ice-master. I have met noman
in these ships better qualified for such a duty, or
more competent for such a situation ; young, power-
ful, a good walker, an excellent shot,—these are a
few of the qualities he possesses, joined to a most
daring and enterprising character. One of the
crew of the “ Polaris,” a German, also came to me,
saying he had heard that there was a chance of an
expedition going next year, and that he was very
desirous of joining it. He is a fine, intelligent
man, of whom they all speak most highly, and was
one of the two who saw the most northern land,
Inaccuracy of our Charts. 21
estimated in eighty-four degrees. This has been
one of the finest days, and decidedly the warmest,
we have had since leaving England. Temperature
as high as fifty-seven degrees. At eight o’clock
we were off Cape Byam Martin, since which time
(it is now past midnight) I have been taking angles,
bearings, and altitudes, and working out the results.
Dr. Bessels was kindly sketching the land for me
as far as Cape Liverpool, after which I lost his
services, in consequence of the necessity of his
going to bed at 2 P.m.
I am quite surprised at the imaccuracy of our
charts. The whole trend of the coast-line is in-
correct. Cape Liverpool would be more properly
called Point Liverpool, being merely a long promon-
tory jutting out into the sea. One distinct and high
headland between Capes Byam Martin and Fanshawe
is altogether ignored on the chart, and this I have
named Cape Sherard Osborn. I counted twelve
large glaciers between Capes Fanshawe and Hay ;
but including small or embryo glaciers, there are
fully four-and-twenty. The largest one is directly
behind Cape Liverpool, and is about five or six miles
in breadth. None had the appearance of being
discharging glaciers, and the depth of this one did
not appear to be very considerable. I have named
them the “ Bartle Frere Glaciers,” after the Presi-
dent of the Royal Geographical Society. At eight
o’clock, being off Navy Board Inlet, a couple of
212 Land at Navy Board Inlet.
boats were sent away in chase of a whale, and the
captain kindly letting me have the dingy, I landed,
accompanied by Chester and the two doctors, on
the north-west point, and succeeded in getting
some sights, though the altitude was so low as to
compel me to he flat down and close to my horizon.
We afterwards collected a few botanical and geo-
logical specimens, and shot a few birds, the doctor
haying promised me some lessons in skinning them.
Sunday, July 20th.—Sunday always seems an
eventful day with us, and this has been unusually
so. At seven this morning, off the mouth of Ad-
miralty Inlet, we met the “ Narwhal,”’ the captain
of which kindly sent us a couple of ‘‘ Dundee Ad-
vertisers,” one of which had an account of the
rescue of the remaining portion of the crew of the
“Polaris.” Luck still remains with us, for having,
in company with the “ Narwhal,” made fast to the
land-ice stretching across the inlet, a fish was seen
close to the latter vessel, when boats were instantly
sent away in pursuit. Before long a chance pre-
sented itself, the harpooneer of the ‘‘ Narwhal’s”’
boat fired, and the ery of “A fall! a fall!” told us
they were fast. By some unaccountable accident,
probably the harpoon drew, or it was not securely
embedded in the blubber; however, the fish was
again loose, and rose not far from one of our boats,
two of which were “on the bran.”” We saw Harky
rise to his gun, and heard the report, but instead
BIe abn
‘AdIOVID ( GUaYT ALLAVA,, AHL
Esquimaue. 213
of the cry of “A fall!” and the hoisting of the
jack, to our chagrin we perceived that he had
missed. The skipper concealed his feelings won-
derfully well, and went below; but strange to say,
the fish had not been frightened, and again rose
not far from Harky, who pulled up, and this time
got fast. The whale was soon killed and along-
side. It was not a very large one, but still it is
another fish, and gives us altogether 210 tons on
board.
On arriving at the land-ice, several parties of
Esquimaux came down to us, and the ship has the
whole day been besieged by them—dirty, unkempt-
looking people, both men and women. They ar-
rived in sledges drawn by from nine to twelve dogs
each.
Altogether there were seven sledges, bringing
about twenty-five men, women, and children. With
the exception of a few foxes’ skins and walrus tusks
they had little to barter, though that did not pre-
vent their asking for everything they saw, and the
more that was given them the more they wanted.
I have received by no means a favourable impression
of these Pond’s Bay natives, for from that place
they come. They seem to me about the lowest
specimens of humanity I have ever come across, not
excepting the Solomon Islanders.
One man picked up the carcase of a loom that the
doctor had been skinning, and seemed to relish it
214 Pond’s Bay Natives.
amazingly, tearing off the raw flesh with his teeth ;
observing me watching him intently, he offered me
a piece, but I need not say the tempting morsel
was declined. In consequence of its being a cloudy
day I was unable, much to my disappointment, to
get sights. In the afternoon we suffered for our
Esquimaux dogs.
warm temperature by a perfect drenching down-
pour of good heavy rain, which lasted many hours.
The natives sought shelter at once. They appear
to have a great abhorrence of water—at any rate,
I can vouch that none is ever used by them for
cleansing purposes.
I am sorry to say we are again without our
.
A Hasty Departure. 215
hydrometer, it having been accidentally dropped
overboard while Hayes was drawing water. Last
night when we were away in the dingy we pulled
between the two westernmost islands of the Wol-
laston group, in a crevice between the rocks, on
one of which we found the nest of a little snow-
flake, containing the young birds and one egg, of
which we possessed ourselves in a cruel and heart-
less manner.
Monday, July 21st.—Huwyn Initer.—As I anti-
cipated, it came on to blow very hard from the
northward at midnight, causing a heavy sea, which
broke up our ice and enforced our speedy depar-
ture, the captain putting in here for shelter: a
snug little haven, where we are lying comfortably
made fast to a land floe. When last we saw our
friends, the Hsquimaux, they were busy packing
their sledges, and harnessing their dogs ready for
a start, as the ice was cracking in all directions:
When we came into this place it seemed literally
swarming with narwhals. Very shortly after send-
ing our boats away, we had secured seven, off which
we shall get aboutaton of blubber. Unfortunately
they are all young and females, so, consequently
have no horn, with the exception of one that had an
appendage about two feet in length, scarcely worth
mentioning. JI had a long shot at one flying
through the water, but though I struck him, the
-harpoon failed to get fast. All the afternoon I
216 ‘ishing along the Floe.
have been hard at work taking: sights and angles,
both from the ship and on shore, which will enable
me to make a fair plan of the harbour. I suc-
ceeded in obtaining soundings from the ship in
190 fathoms soft muddy bottom, temperature 29°5°,
surface 34°, air 37°; and also collected several bo-
tanical and geological specimens.
Tuesday, July 22nd.—An unpleasant, damp,
foggy day, at times so thick as to render it im-
possible to distinguish the end of the bowsprit.
This thick weather is a great drawback as regards
taking sights, the fogs, especially at this time of the
year and next month, being so prevalentas to make
a clear day quite an exception.
We left Elwyn Inlet about ten, and soon after-
wards the captain put his head into my cabin with
the welcome intelligence that the ‘‘ Tay”? was in
sight, and the dingy was despatched for our letters.
and newspapers. We are now fishing along the |
floe across Admiralty Inlet, but keeping well over
to the west side. Occasionally, when the fog is
not so dense, we catch sight of the “ Hrik,” “Tay,”
and “ Narwhal,” all the ships keeping close together,
and in what they call the thick water, in which fish
are only to be seen. We have seen one or two
whales during the day, and have lowered our boats
after them, but without success. The mate, how-
ever, got fast to a narwhal, which although a '
female had a horn three feet in length. According
to the accounts given in the English papers by the
Geological Formation of the Land. 217
“ Polaris” survivors of the dimensions of the floe on
- which they drifted down to the coast of Labrador,
its circumference, when they started, was five miles,
which was reduced to twenty yards in diameter
before they abandoned it. Both the doctor and
Chester assure me, the former having actually
measured it, that a mile and a quarter in circumfer-
ence was the outside; so that if its decrease in size
is exaggerated in the same proportion—in reality
it will not have been much reduced. I employed
myself this morning in examining’, sorting, and
stowing away my geological specimens, and find
that the land on the east side of Navy Board Inlet
is composed of Silurian limestone similar to Cape
Hay. In addition to this limestone there are several
pieces of drift, some of large boulders, probably
transported by ice, and which consist of gneiss,
mica-schist, and granitic gneiss. The land about
Elwyn and Admiralty Inlets is composed of the
same Silurian limestone, which rises up precipi-
tously from the sea to a height of from 1,200 to
1,500 feet. Its striations are most distinct, though
very irregular, in places being nearly horizontal, in
others dipping towards the northward and west-
ward from 6° to 10°.
In the evening it was suddenly discovered that
there was very little water left in the ship, so we
are now hauled to the wind, beating up towards our
old harbour, Elwyn Inlet, the weather still con-
tinuing as thick as pea-soup. I am not sorry we
218 Prevailing Fogs.
are going back, as if the sun shows itself to-morrow
I shall be able to complete a very fair plan of the
anchorage.
Wednesday, July 23rd.—At midnight last night
we made fast to the land ice in Elwyn Inlet, and
immediately had all the men and boats away water-
ing ship, the water, pure and fresh, running down
the sides of the cliff into our casks. So expedi-
tiously was this duty performed, that by 5 a.m. we
had received over twenty tons of water, and taken
our departure from the inlet, without giving me a
chance of getting any observations, the weather
still remaining thick and foggy, the wind having
fallen, or to use a whaling phrase, “taken off.”
We pushed through the loose brashy ice, and made
fast to the main pack across Admiralty Inlet, where
we are now patiently waiting, with a couple of boats
“on the bran,” for any fish that may be unwise
enough to approach within sight. The ice is from
five to seven feet in thickness, but with a change of
wind it will quickly break up. —
Saturday, July 26th.—A. wet, thick, fogey, and
unpleasant day. We are cruising about along the
floe edge, still in Admiralty Inlet ; but the weather
is decidedly against our fishing, irrespective of a fresh
north-westerly breeze, which raises an unpleasant
tumble of asea. I succeeded in obtaining a little
“‘snow-flake ” this morning, which forms another
important addition to my ornithological collection.
Our Coal Supply Diminishing. 219
Sunday, July 27th.—Still enveloped in this per-
sistent and villainous fog. I begin to think we
are destined never more to see either land or sun.
The wind has subsided and the sea has gone down,
but the thick weather seems to exert a most depress-
ing influence on all on board, though for different
reasons: on my shipmates, because of their utter
inability to fish; and on myself, because I am unable
either to get observations or to see the land. We
imagine ourselves to-day to be off Cape Craufurd,
a point the position of which I am especially anxious
todetermine. Our pile of coal on the quarter-deck
is diminishing in a most alarming manner, which
gives me a great deal of uneasiness, though the -
captain is constantly raising my spirits by telling
me that I am destined to see much more than any
one that ever came out in a discovery ship.
he ee tees
Cape Warrender.
CHAPTER XVI.
PRINCE REGENT’S INLET.
ONDAY, July 28th.—Again in Prince
Regent’s Inlet. At midnight last night
the fog suddenly cleared off—rapid
changes being very common in these
regions—and found us abreast of Cape Craufurd,
distant about eight miles. Steam was immediately
raised, and a course shaped for this inlet. It was
beautifully calm until 1 p.u., when a strong breeze
sprang up from the westward, causing the spray to
wash clean over our decks; but by 4 p.m. we were
steaming through an immense quantity of loose pack
ice, which gave us smooth water; and thinking fish
might be about, the screw was stopped, and the ship
put under canvas. The entire coast line, from Cape
Craufurd to Cape York, is incorrectly delineated on
the chart; I was able to get a fair notion of the
trend of the land, but unfortunately we were too far
off to make a really accurate survey. I obtained
A Day of Adventure. 221
sights at 4.30 a.m., 5.50 A.m., 6.40 a.m., 9.30 a.m.,
and noon; and with the true bearings obtained at
the same time, shall be able to give the principal
headlands.
Tuesday, July 29th.—This has been a day full
of adventure and excitement, one of those days one
reads of in story books treating of the whale fishery.
Last night a fine narwhal was harpooned, with a
horn rather over nine feet in length. After break-
fast I went away to officiate as harpooneer in a boat
“on the bran,” but the water was so smooth, and
everything so silent and quiet, that we were unable
to approach the “wily unie” sufficiently near to
effect its capture. Before returning on board I
hazarded a long shot at one, but although it was
hit, and we all thought we were fast, he got away.
I had just completed a double altitude when the
captain sent down to say he saw some bears on the
floe. Putting my books on one side I ran on deck,
and getting the dingy, went away with the two
doctors and Chester. We pulled for some time
without seeing anything, and were just on the point
of giving it up and returning to the ship when
“ Brunie”? was espied some distance off the floe,
but coming towards us. When he had approached
within 600 yards his curiosity appeared to be satis-
fied, and he seemed inclined to show us his heels,
perceiving which I landed on the floe, and, running
as fast as possible, got him between the water and
222 A Day of Adventure.
myself. His retreat being thus cut off, he jumped
into the water, when, risking a long shot, I sent a
bullet through his body. This apparently had little
or no effect upon him, except to dye the water with
his blood. Seeing the dingy coming up behind,
he jumped on the ice, which gave me a better mark,
and I fired again, striking him just abaft the fore
shoulder, and rolling him completely over; he soon,
however, picked himself up, and rushed towards
me; but another bullet at about fifteen yards put
an end to any evil designs he might have enter-
tained towards me. JBear shooting alone on the
floe is hardly a desirable or pleasant amusement,
unless armed with a breech-loader. Whilst the
others were employed flinching our game I walked
some distance, and caught sight of another bear;
but though I did my best to imitate a seal lying on
the ice, I failed to allure my intended victim within
range, and at last, suddenly taking fright, he turned —
round and scampered off.
We were just shoving off to return, when we
heard the blast, and eventually saw the crown, of a
large whale. Double banking our oars, we pulled
with all speed to the ship to make known the wel-
come intelligence, reaching her at about 4 Pp. m., when
two boats were soon sent away in the direction we
had indicated. Dinner was scarcely over before a fish
was seen close to the ship, and all hands were
called. He rose close alongside. Tom Webster
A : ee)
a ae ial
ae Oe ed > oe Re bs
Nt) eae eee a
a ee ge
Perilous Situation. 223
pulled up—all was breathless excitement, everyone
watching the result. Tom had a splendid chance,
right over the fish, which we already regarded as
our own. He fired, but, sad to relate, missed.
The captain hailed from the nest to put in his hand
harpoon; he stuck it in, but, fortunately as it
turned out, had not time to bury it deep in the
whale’s blubber. Down went the fish with fearful
rapidity, the lines fouled, and in another moment
the boat would have been taken down. ‘Jump
overboard for your lives!” shouted the captain
from the crow’s nest. At that instant the harpoon
drew, and they were safe; but our fish was lost.
Poor Tom! we were all more sorry for his misfor-
tune in missing than for the actual loss of the whale.
But we had no time to lament our ill-luck, for more
fish were seen, and in less than half an hour we had
the pleasure of hearing “a fall”’ cried, and of know-
ing that Jemmy Grey was fast. Seeing thatit wasa
heavy fish, and hkely to give trouble, Chester and
I volunteered to go away in the dingy with the
rocket-gun to kill it, an offer which was gladly
accepted; Chester took the gun and I the steer
oar, the doctor (Graham) and an old fireman, com-
monly called old Harry, forming our crew. We
pulled close alongside the monster, which had by
this time got three harpoons in its body. This
seemed to make it wild; Chester fired. I swept
the boat round, but the dingy, rather an unmanage-
224 ~ Knocked Overboard.
able little boat in consequence of a very deep false
keel, which had recently been put on, and also being
a boat very ill adapted for the service on which we
were employed, failed to get clear of the brute’s —
tail, which it had thrown up out of the water on
receiving the contents of our gun, and which, de-
scending with terrific violence, just caught the gun-
wale of our boat, knocking me over the stern.
Before coming to the surface I imagined the dingy
had been smashed to pieces, which would have been
rather a bad case for us, as the other boats were
some way off, and, also, fast to the fish; and, no
loose boat being near us, and with the temperature
of the water only a few degrees above freezing
point, I don’t think that I for one could have kept
up long, accoutred as I was in a heavy monkey
- jacket and sea boots. However, on rising to the
surface, I had the satisfaction of seeing the dingy a
couple of boats’ lengths off, and the doctor (who.
had taken to the water, imagining that the tail was
coming right down upon us) and myself were soon
hauled in, none the worse for our ducking. If the
boat had been one foot nearer the fish she would
most assuredly have been dashed to pieces and we
should have all been killed before having time to
jump overboard.
However, we ended in having our revenge on the
monster, though it was an hour and a half before
we succeeded in despatching it. Having no boat
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Parry's Predictions. 225
to assist us, the whole duty of killing the whale fell
tous. Chester (an old whaler) used the lance in a
masterly manner. I was not sorry to return on
board and get some dry clothing. The captain was
much relieved at seeing us safe, for he had been
very anxious after having seen the doctor and me
in the water. We soon had our friend alongside,
and by midnight his blubber was on board. Three
or four more such fish will fill us. The number of
whales seen here reminds me of Parry’s visit to
Regent’s Inlet, and of his remarking on the numer-
ous fish that were seen. He then predicted that at
no distant period it would undoubtedly become a
rendezvous for our whalers, when the fishery in
Baffin’s Bay began to fail, as whales will always in
course of time leave a place where they continue
year after year to be molested. Parry gave a very
exact description of Neill’s Harbour, thinking the
day would come when our ships would find it of
service.
1 He says:—‘‘I have been thus particular in describing
Neill’s Harbour, because I am of opinion that at no very dis-
tant date whalers may find it of service.” ... . “ Prince
Regent’s Inlet will probably become a rendezvous for our
ships, as well on account of the numerous fish to be found
there, as the facility with which any ship having once crossed
Baflin’s Bay is sure to reach it during the months of July and
August. We saw nine or ten black whales the evening of
our arrival in Neills Harbour.’-—Parry’s Third Voyage.
Q
226 Off Port Bowen.
Wednesday, July 30th.—The morning broke wet
and disagreeable, with rain continuing until noon,
when the weather cleared up, and a strong breeze
sprang up from the north-west; but in consequence
of the amount of loose ice in the inlet, the water
was comparatively smooth. Our only danger now
is, being caught by the ice and beset until a change
of wind. We have been cruising all day off and on
Port Bowen, Parry’s winter quarters in 1824, but I
have been unable to get sights, as there is nothing
but an icy horizon. I have employed myself to-day
in tracing off the land as it should be on the chart,
and skinning birds, which is anything but a plea-
sant occupation.
Friday, August 1st—We are now cruising off
and on a large floe, stretching nearly from Port
Bowen to Batty Bay. The wind has been blowing
very fresh for the last two days from the north-
west, which is driving the ice up the inlet at a
surprising pace. During the time we have been
“hove to j
tent, it has been drifting to the southward faster
> off a floe some five or six miles in ex-
than we have ourselves.
The captain has now a new idea in his head,
which is to follow the ice up the inlet until we reach
Fury Point, when we shall probably come to open
water, to push up the Gulf of Boothia, making a
running survey of all the unknown land on its
eastern side, through the Fury and Hecla Straits,
The Captain's New Idea. 227
down Fox Channel or the Frozen Straits into
Hudson’s Bay, and thus home. I need not say
how anxious I am that he should adopt this route,
the discovery of which would be of the greatest
advantage to whalers; and, from what we have
lately seen, the whales are all heading in that
Prince Regent’s Inlet-—The “ Arctic” fishing at the
edge of the floe.
direction, so that we might fish as we go along.
At five this morning, a little south of Batty Bay,
some whales were seen, but only one small one
caught, though all the boats were away. Whilst
we were employed in flinching our fish, with the
help of one or two of the “ Polaris’s” men, I got a
cast with the deep-sea lead, but no soundings in two
hundred fathoms, temperature 29°8, surface 33:0,
228 Pass Fury Beach.
air 36°4. The fish we obtained, though it had only
run out three hundred fathoms of line, was covered
with soft mud, and this was what induced me to
get a cast.
In the evening we steamed through a stream of
pack ice into a large open water along the land, the
“Camperdown” following us. The way in which
we bored through the ice elicited the admiration of
the ‘ Polaris’s” men, Schumann, the engineer,
saying that if they had come across such ice they
would have made fast and remained until it opened.
He said if they had only had a man like Adams as
their sailing master, he felt convinced they would
have reached the North Pole. We passed a large
iceberg to-day apparently aground. Iam ata loss
to conceive whence it comes, as to my knowledge
there are no discharging glaciers, nor, in fact, any
others in this neighbourhood. It must, therefore,
have drifted up from Lancaster Sound, or perhaps
even from Baffin’s Bay.
Saturday, August 2nd.—At six this morning we
passed Fury Beach, at a distance of about three or
four miles. JI was very anxious to land, but the
captain was as anxious to look for fish, so we stood
on past Fury Point into Creswell Bay. With my
glass I could plainly perceive a quantity of stores,
which seemed to consist of casks, spars, and a heap of
what sailors would call gear. Two boats were seen
hauled up on the beach, but one appeared a perfect
Unsuccessful Chase. 229
wreck. We could also see a large anchor, but no
signs whatever of the ship herself. The land seems
to be of the same silurian limestone as at Port
Leopold. I am afraid we shall not proceed much
further to the southward, as the captain reports the
ice closing in, so that our chance is small of going up
the Gulf of Boothia. Certainly, as far as I can
see, there is open water to the south, and the ice is
at least four miles off the west coast of the inlet. I
obtained good sights again to-day.
Midnight—We have just returned on_ board
from a long, wearisome, and unsuccessful chase
after a whale. Shortly after entering Creswell
Bay some fish were seen. All hands were called,
and all the boats sent away, the captain observing
with glee, as we shoved off, that we should be a
“full ship” that evening. I went as boat steerer
in Bannerman’s boat, going with two others after a
fish towards the head of the bay. For eight hours
did we chase and dodge that whale, sometimes
getting within one hundred feet of it, but never
near enough to risk a shot. We must have pulled
at least a distance of twenty miles, first to star-
board, then to port, then ahead, and now astern.
I verily believe the fish had seen us, and was pur-
posely leading us astray. We chased it nearly up
to the head of the bay, and then out again towards
the ship, when it again turned and went back.
The captain, seeing our crew were nearly done up,
230 Creswell Bay.
recalled us, and sent three fresh crews away in the
boats after the same fish, but I do not believe they
will ever get her. We were not sorry to return on
board, as we were getting both hungry and tired.
There appears to be a sort of inlet at the head of
Creswell Bay, but whether formed by a river or
not I am unable to make out. A low spit runs to
the northward, and the high land trends away to i 4
the back of it.
CHAPTER X VII.
FURY BEACH.
YAYIUNDAY, August 38rd.—The boats re-
turned at four o’clock this morning,
and were, as I predicted, unsuccessful,
having given up the chase as hopeless.
As they pulled towards the ship, the whale gave
three or four unusually heavy, and, as it were, defiant
and triumphant blasts. Fearing the ice was closing
in, the ship’s head was pointed to the northward,
and shortly after breakfast we were again off Fury
Beach. This time the ship was “hove to,” and we
all went on shore.
Fury Beach is classic ground in the annals of
Arctic adventure. During the stormy month of
August, in the year 1825, it was the scene of much
heavy work zealously performed, of an exercise of
most skilful seamanship, and of the final loss of Her
Majesty’s ship “ Fury.” On the Ist of August, 1825,
the ‘“ Hecla,” commanded by Sir Edward Parry,
232 Parry's Expedition.
and the “ Fury,” under Captain Hoppner, after
breaking out of their winter quarters at Port
Bowen, were making their way up Prince Regent’s
Inlet. Among the officers of that expedition were
four men, besides the commanders, who have won
a permanent place in our naval records. James
Ross was there, Horatio Austin, Edward Bird, and
Crozier, the future second in command under Sir
John Franklin. Parry had a fine staff, and all
were full of hope. Suddenly the ice came bodily
in, both ships were forced on shore, and no open
water could be seen from the mast-head. The
“ Hecla” was hove off and warped to a floe in the
offing; but the “ Fury” leaked so heavily that
four pumps were kept constantly going; and it
became evident that, if she was to be rendered sea-
worthy, she must first be hove down. Parry
adopted a most-ingenious contrivance to form a
sort of basin or wet dock during the operation.
Anchors were carried to the beach, having bower
cables attached to them, and passing round the
grounded masses of heavy ice. The cables were
floated by two hand masts and empty casks being
lashed to them, so as to make them receive the
pressure of the ice a foot or two below the water.
This heavy work was completed during the night
of the 5th. For several following days all hands
were employed landing provisions, spars, and boats,
unrigging the “ Fury,’ and landing sails and
a
=
fe
Abandonment of the “ Fury.” 7 O38
booms, coals and stores. It was a most animated
scene, and every soul was fully employed. Casks
were landed by a hawser secured to the mast-head,
and set up to an anchor on the beach, the casks
being hooked to a block traversing the hawser as a
jackstay, and made to run down it. Nothing could
exceed the spirit and alacrity of every individual.
The officers of the “ Fury” messed and slept in a
tent on the beach, while the men were lodged on
board the “ Hecla.” By the 18th the “ Fury” was
completely cleared, and they were in the act of
heaving her down, when a storm came on; there
was a heavy sea ; the protecting ice was worn away,
the cables slacked up, and the basin thus lost its
protection. The “ Fury” was once more driven
up on the beach by masses of ice; and by the
21st an icy barrier, three or four miles in width,
separated the “ Hecla” from her doomed consort.
On the 25th, Parry, with several officers, went in a
boat to Fury Beach, and it was then decided that
it would be impossible to make the ‘‘ Fury” sea-
worthy, and that she must be abandoned. Her
boats were hauled up clear of the ice, and she was
left to her fate.
When Sir John Ross undertook his expedition
in the little “ Victory,” he relied a good deal on
the great store of provisions that had thus been piled
on the desolate shore of North Somerset. He
landed at Fury Beach on the 12th of August, 1829,
234 The Rosses at Fury Beach.
officers
still standing, where James Ross, whe was with his
and found the mess-tent of the ‘ Fury’s’
uncle, had rested after those days of heavy toil just
four years before. The ship had been carried
bodily off, probably ground to atoms, and floated
away to add to the drift timber of these seas. Ross
carried off an immense quantity of stores, ten tons
of coal, and sails for housings, and made sail on the
14th.
The Rosses passed three long years on the shores ,
of Boothia to the south, during which time James
Ross discovered the magnetic pole. At last the — |
crew of the “ Victory” had to abandon her, and
retreat to the north in order to seek safety by
reaching the whalers in Baffin’s Bay. The friendly
stores of Fury Beach were to be their half-way
resting-place, and they arrived there, travelling .
wearily over the ice, on June 30th, 1832. Here
they built a house, with two rooms, which was
named ‘‘ Somerset House,” and then set out in three
of the “ Fury’s” boats for the northward. But
they were stopped by the ice near Port Leopold,
and resolved to return to Fury Beach, and there
pass the winter. The boats were left in Batty Bay,
and the Rosses went back on foot, establishing
themselves, with their men, in Somerset House, on ~
the 7th of October. Here they lived on the
“ Fury’s” stores, and only lost one man during
the winter. In July, 1833, they finally departed,
Lieut. Robinson at Fury Beach. 235
and were picked up by a whaler in Lancaster
Sound.
In the spring of 1849, Lieutenant Robinson, of
H.M.S. “ Enterprise,” then wintering at Port
Leopold, undertook a journey southward, along
the coast of North Somerset, and reached Fury
Beach on June 10th, in the hope and expectation of
finding traces of Sir John Franklin’s people; for
Crozier, the captain of the “ Terror,’ had been a
midshipman in the “ Hecla” with Parry in 1825,
and had shared in the toil of landing all the stores.
Jt was fully anticipated that at least some of the
companions of Franklin would have made for this
spot, but there was not a trace of them.
The private searching vessel, “ Prince Albert,”
under Mr. Kennedy, and with Lieutenant Bellot of
the French navy on board, wintered durmg 1851-52
in Batty Bay, on the west coast of North Somerset ;
andin January, 1852, Kennedy and Bellot undertook
a sledge journey to Fury Beach to lay out a depot.
They reached the spot on the 8th, and found the
framework of Somerset House still standing and
entire, but the covering was blown to rags. They
lighted a fire in the old stove, supped and dozed
over it, and then set out on their return journey to
the “ Prince Albert” in Batty Bay. In February,
Kennedy and Bellot started on a more extended
journey, and this time they remained at Fury Beach
from the 5th to the 29th of March, taking some of
236 Allen Young at Pury Beach.
the stores, which they found to be in excellent pre-
servation. They then set out again, discovered
Bellot’s Strait, and returned to Batty Bay, after
having travelled right round North Somerset.
When Sir Leopold McClintock went down Prince
Regent’s Inlet in the ‘‘ Fox” he was off Fury Beach
on the 20th of August, 1858, but did not land.
In March, 1859, however, Mr. Allen Young left the
“ Fox” at Port Kennedy with a party consisting of
the cook, two Hsquimaux, and some dogs, in order
to obtain provisions at Fury Beach. He reached
the place on the 22nd, when the ground was covered
with snow, so that it was necessary to dig down to
the casks. After much trouble he obtained what
was required, about 8 cwt. of sugar, and some
preserved vegetables. His report to Sir Leopold
McClintock was, that the stores were so covered
with deep snow that it was impossible to take an
account of them, but that he had found some casks:
of sugar, tobacco, peas, and flour, a very little coal,
and two boats—one a four-oared gig, the other a
cutter with the side cut out as if for making a flat
sledge. Allen Young returned to the “ Fox” on
the 28th, after a very severe journey across heavy
hummocks in Creswell Bay, where his sledge broke
down, and he became snow blind, and had to be left
alone ina bag in the middle of the bay for forty-
eight hours, whilst his companions made progress
with the heavy load.
On Classic Ground. D3"
No living soul had landed on Fury Beach since
March, 1859. I looked upon it as classic ground,
for here Parry, Hoppner, James Ross, Bird, Austin,
and Crozier had displayed all the finest qualities of
seamen in 1824. Here the Rosses wintered in
1833; here Kennedy and the gallant Bellot had
rested in 1852; and this was the scene of Allen
Young’s severe work in 1859.
Casks, spars, rigging, and a perfect assortment
of ship’s stores were strewn about in all directions.
Two boats were hauled up on the beach. One was
but the
gig, on a pinch, might be made seaworthy. It is
im pieces, as described by Allen Young ;
a 22-foot four-oared gig, painted black with a green
ribbon, the paint appearing tolerably fresh. The
other had been a larger boat, about 50 feet long.
It has “ W.1824 4.” on its stem—being a Wool-
wich-built boat. On the stern the name of G.
Fowler, June 10th, 1849, was cut,—a marine belong-
ing to the party of Lieutenant Robinson,—under
which our doctor carved his own name: A. Graham,
August 3rd, 1873. The gig had been built either
at Devonport or Deptford, and had on its stem
“XXII. 48. D. 24.” The remains of Somerset
House, which had fallen or been blown down, were
lying between the two boats, the framework being
composed of spars. The running rigging of the
“ Pury ” had: all been unrove, and was lying on the
beach, jagged up in five-fathom lengths. The top-
238 Stores of the “ Fury.”
sail yards were also on the beach; but there were
no signs whatever of the hull of the ship, or of
her lower masts and yards. She must have been |
crushed up or carried away by the ice many years ago.
Three bower anchors were on the beach, one of them
having a large 10-inch hawser attached to it. They
were 22 and 25 cwt. anchors, the latter bemg a
patent one, marked ft. F. Hawkins. There were
many hundred tins of preserved beef and vege-
tables, and also what one of the men informed me
was “consecrated” gravy, all in an admirable state
of preservation, after a lapse of nearly fifty years.
The flour was all perished, but the sugar and tobacco
appeared to be good. One would have imagined it
had been the wreck of a whaler instead of a man-of-
war, for a perfect set of whaling implements, inclu-
ding harpoons and lances, was on the _ beach.
Readers of Parry’s voyage will remember that Ross
and Sherer succeeded in killing a “‘ payable” whale
off Port Bowen.' The metal powder-cases had all
been broken open, and some of the powder was
scattered about. I tried some of it, which ignited,
but it burnt slowly.
On landing I found a pair of large deer antlers,
of which I made prize. As I could not find the —
skull, they had probably been shed there by the
1 Parry’s “ Third Voyage,” p. 89.
Examining a Grave. 239
_ animal itself. The marks of bears’ teeth and claws
were plainly visible on some of the casks, the wood
of one containing flour having been literally gnawed
through.
Seeing a cairn near the water’s edge, I hurried
towards it, and quickly demolished the heap in the
expectation of finding some record, but, after an
hour’s hard work with pick and shovel, I was horri-
fied to find that it was a grave, the body having
been sewn up in canvas instead of a coffin. I care-
fully replaced everything, endeavouring to give the
heap more the shape and appearance of a grave than
acairn. It must have been the body of Chimham
Thomas, the carpenter of the “ Victory,” with Sir
John Ross, who died on February 22nd, 1833. His
is the only body thatis buried on Fury Beach. He
was aged forty-eight, and his constitution had been
undermined by long service in the first Burmese
war, and on the American lakes, before he ever made
an Arctic voyage. Itis very strange that this poor
man should have been buried so near the water, for
a more desirable site could easily have been found
further inland.
Two 32-pounder carronades and a small gun-
carriage, with a large amount of shot of all descrip-
tions, were lying about. A pistol was also picked
up, one of the old navy pattern. I found an old
rusty knife, which, with a good harpoon, a broken
240 A Ramble near Fury Beach.
pair of binoculars, left by Lieutenant Robinson in
1849, and the antlers, will be my souvenirs of Fury
Beach.
Leaving this curious scene, I scaled the hills in
rear of the beach, accompanied by Dr. Bessels.
They rise in terraces to a height of about 500 feet,
stretching away landward in long and smooth un-
dulations. From the summit I obtained a view of
the opposite shore, and could distinctly see Cape
Kater and Cape Garry. The ice seemed to remain
in the centre of the strait, leaving a clear open
water along the coast. We found several granitic
boulders on the top, conclusive evidence of the
upheaval of the land, which is composed of silu-
rian limestone. I was fortunate enough to pick
up a few fossils, and brought away several geolo-
gical and botanical specimens.
We returned to the ship at three o’clock, and
then stretched away towards the ice in the centre of
the strait. It turned out a very wet afternoon and
evening, rain falling heavily at times. The sun is
gradually declining, and it will not be long before
we lose our midnight sun, which will be a source of
regret, as I do the greater part of my work at
night, when everything is quiet. JI was much
amused to-day at the curious fancies which sailors
sometimes take into their heads. One of the men |
was suffermg from a severe cold and sore throat,
and, having given the doctor’s prescriptions a trial
be Ree ee ee
=
‘ad
Sailors’ Curious Fancies. 9A]
without alleviating the symptoms, he determined
to try aremedy of his own. Accordingly, having
obtained a raw salt herring from the steward and
taken the bone out, he applied it to his neck, tying
a handkerchief over it, and keeping it on all night.
He assured me in the morning that he had derived
much benefit from its effects.
Kine Ducks.
R
CuapTeR X VIII.
CAPE GARRY.
ONDAY, August 4th.—Last night, Just
as I was going to bed, Bannerman,
whose middle watch it was, came down
and asked me if I would lke to go
away with him after wnies, two having already been ~
harpooned, adding that a bear had been seen on the
ice. I did not require much persuasion to go, and
taking my rifle, we were soon pulling about after
narwhals, Bannerman as steersman and I as har-
pooneer. Soon we espied a large bear, apparently
asleep on the floe; but the ice being loosely packed,
we were unable to approach within 500 yards with
the boat. We therefore jumped out on the ice, and
endeavoured to make our way towards the animal.
This was by no means easy, as the floes were in
some places so far apart as to render it impossible
to jump across; we were therefore compelled in
these places to push the floes over with boat-hooks,
we eee ee ee ae
a eee
ADVENTURE WITH A BEAR.
Page 242.
A Large Bear. 243
which we had taken the precaution to bring with
us. Great care had also to be taken to avoid falling
through, as the ice was very thin and treacherous,
added to which it was drifting rapidly to the south-
ward; so, had either of us fallen in, the ice would
have passed over before we could have had a chance
of getting out. After some little time we got within
150 yards of Master Brunie, who had being lying
quiet all the time. Having arrived at that distance,
in our anxiety to get near, we jumped on a piece of
rotten ice, which instantly gave way with an un-
pleasant crumbling noise. J'ortunately, we were
able to scramble out, wet only to the waist. The
noise, however, disturbed Bruin, who, raising his
head, surveyed us intently. Bannerman fired, but
missed, which caused the bear to get up and medi-
tate a retreat, when I fired, striking him just behind
the head, and rolling him completely over. He
gathered himself up again pretty smartly, when
I again fired, the ball passing through his neck.
By this time, having run on in a frantic manner,
splashing through water and ice alike, I had come
close up to our friend, who, seeing me, rushed,
open-mouthed, towards me. When he got within
five yards’ distance I fired, the bullet striking be-
tween the two eyes, and at once terminating his
‘sufferings. He is the largest we have yet shot—
fully ten feet in length. After flinching him we
had the unpleasant task of dragging the skin down
244 Precarious Position.
to the boat, If our journey towards the bear was
bad, our return was far worse. On arriving at the
boat we found, to our chagrin, that she was com-
pletely beset, the ice having closed in all round.
‘To wait longer would only make matters worse, so
we had to look our difficulties resolutely in the face
and commence action. For upwards of an hour
were we breaking through thin ice, or hauling the
boat bodily up on a large floe, dragging her across,
and launching her on the other side. It had one
good effect, which was that of keeping us warm, so
as to counteract the effects of our wetting. Matters
were beginning to look rather serious, steady rain
and thick weather having set: in, when, fortunately,
they saw from the ship the unpleasant predicament
in which we were placed, and the captain, ordering
steam to be got up, bored a passage to us through
the ice, and so relieved us from our troubles. It
was past 3 A.M. when we got on board. We were
in a most filthy condition, for the boat we were in
was the ‘
‘mollie”’ boat, that is, the one employed
alongside a whale during the process of flinching,
and everything was covered with a thick coat of
dirty grease. It has been a disagreeable, thick, rainy
day, but I am glad to say we are again steaming to
the southward, and are this evening in Creswell Bay;
and though there seems no chance of going north,
yet much may be done in Prince Regent’s Inlet.
Tuesday, August 5th—This morning found us
ee Pee ee
ey ee ee
Position of Cape Garry. 245
well inside Creswell Bay, and, being clear, I suc-
ceeded in getting good sights and bearings, but,
unfortunately, the horizon was rather hazy. Cape
Garry appeared to me to be placed too far to the
southward and eastward. It was originally laid
down by Parry, in 1819, nearly in its true position,
although he only took a bearing from some dis-
tance. Its removal further south appears to have
been due to Sir John Ross, and is certainly erro-
neous. I was in great hopes of landing, and had
everything ready to fix its position, but a reef ap-
pearing to run off the point and the water shoaling,
warned the captain of hidden dangers, and he there-
fore, much to my disappointment, though perhaps
very wisely, tacked and stood to the northward.
However, it would have been foolish to have acted
otherwise, and to risk a full ship close to what was
considered a reef. We got soundings about six
miles from Cape Garry in 30 fathoms, hard bottom,
no particle of any description adhering to the arming
of the lead. A boat was sent away to sound in the
direction of the cape, obtaining 25 fathoms, gra-
dually shoaling to four within three or four miles of
the land, which projects out from the cape about
two or three miles, forming a long, low spit. The
bottom appeared to be sandy, a minute portion being
brought on board that had been drawn up with the
lead. I examined it through a magnifying glass,
and found that it was evidently formed from sand-
246 Soundings.
stone, though I detected a small fragment of shell.
It seems to me rather inexplicable that the bottom
should consist of sandstone, whilst the land is com-
posed of limestone. The bottom I obtained at El-
wyn Inlet, at a depth of 190 fathoms, was limestone,
the same as the land. The ice appears not only to
be drifting to the southward, but also to be breaking
up, so I trust we may yet have a chance of pushing
up the inlet. I should have hiked to have obtained
more soundings to-day, but the ship was going too
fast through the water.
Thursday, August 7th.—We passed Fury Beach at
midnight last night, and I doubt very much whether
we shall go to the southward of it again. The cap-
tain kept us up and amused till past two this
morning, reciting Shakspeare, singing songs, per-
forming the showman, and indulging in various
other accomplishments too. numerous to mention.
He has certainly a wonderful memory. In the —
afternoon, several of what the captain calls “‘ sword
fish’ were seen, and the boats were sent to attempt
the capture of one; but they were flying so fast
through the water, and were so wild, that our boats
were unable to approach within striking distance.
These fish appear to be the regular grampus, having
a dorsal fin, and being apparently about twenty feet
long. They are the whales’ most inveterate ene-
mies, scaring them away directly they appear in
their neighbourhood ; and the captain is convinced -
‘
: =
—
it
aFy
» 5 3 ea ha 8 ci
LS ss cat oalarainie eae ee FORE nT ars
bh J
4
‘
Continued thick Weather. DAT
that m consequence of our meeting them we shall
see no whales for some time. Their blast is much
heavier than that of a narwhal. No one on board
this ship has ever seen one of these sword fish
caught. The ice both .yesterday and to-day has
been driftmg rapidly to the northward, that is, out
of the inlet, and is also breaking up quickly, and in
a few days, if we remain, I expect open water will
be visible as far as it is possible for us to see up the
inlet.
Friday, August 8th.—A miserable, cloudy, wet
day. I almost wish winter would set in, as rain
on board these ships is most disagreeable—far
worse than snow. Shoals of grampus were seen
to-day, which is, I am afraid, a strong indication
that we shall get no whales for some time. Our
worthy skipper is somewhat changeable in his
plans and ideas. Yesterday he was all for going
north and visiting the “ Polaris;” to-day he is
going to remain in Regent’s Inlet until the end of
this month, and push up to the head of the Gulf
of Boothia as far as Committee Bay. Whichever
he does will afford me great pleasure, though I
should prefer the former. This thick weather is
much against taking observations. I must hope
for a change for the better when we get upon un-
explored ground.
Sunday, August 10th, 3 a.m.—I have just re-
turned on board from a long, cold, wearisome pull
248 Pury Point passed.
after fish. We have been again amongst them,
but though successful in one instance, have on
the whole been most unlucky. We passed Fury
Point early in the morning, and I obtained excel-
lent sights, fully corroborating all my previous
work. Cape Garry is really fifteen miles to the
northward of the position assigned to it on the
chart, and very nearly in the position originally
given to it by Parry. The ice is much further to
the southward and westward than it was a few days
ago. At noon we were abreast of Cape Garry,
about twelve miles distant. The land was plainly
visible to the southward, trending in a 8.8.W. direc-
tion, and beyond that, low land was seen, which I
take to be the north coast of Boothia Felix, so that
we have really seen the continent of America. At
1 p.m., as I was busy working out my sights, a
great commotion overhead told me that whales
were in sight, and on going on deck the captain
hailed from the nest to say he saw any amount, and
was certain that we could get enough to fill us up.
The ship was hove to, and all boats lowered away,
I steering Bannerman. We had not left the ship
five minutes before a fish rose close to us. I swept
round; we pulled up quickly ; the mate fired, and
we were fast. About three minutes afterwards
Harky Hunter got fast, and then Jemmy Grey.
Three fish in less than ten minutes! Unfortunately
they all took to the ice, and it was a work of great
- Successful Exploring Expedition. 249
difficulty, not unattended with danger, to get near
them. Eventually one was killed, but the other two
got away. Ours took out nearly two miles of line,
which must have chafed on the rocky bottom, as it
parted about fifty fathoms from the harpoon, so we
had the delightful occupation of hauling in the line
with nothing at the end of it. We got back to the
ship about eight, and after some refreshment started
again on another unsuccessful expedition after
whales. At midnight a fresh breeze sprang up ahead
as we were returning, which made it bitterly cold,
- and also unpleasant to steer, the sea rising and nearly
unshipping the steer-oar at every toss, and we came
on board, wet, cold, and discontented. I have now
just got up, and find that we are off Cape Garry,
and the day fine and clear. The captain made me
supremely happy to-day by consenting to my pro-
posal of taking the dingy, with the doctor and a
couple of volunteers, for the purpose of going up
Bellot’s Straits, and to be away three or four days.
I have no doubt in that time we might do a good
deal. I picked out a piece of gneiss to-day from
the gun-harpoon that Jemmy Grey fired yesterday,
and which had been dragging along the bottom.
Monday night, August 11th.—Just returned from
a short but most successful exploring expedition,
very tired, very sleepy, and all my bones aching.
Last night, being about eight miles off Cape Garry,
the captain consented to my taking the dingy to
250 Remains of an Esqumaux Village.
go on shore, telling me to look out for a red ensign
being hoisted at the fore, as a signal for my imme-
diate return, which he would only hoist if he saw
the ice setting in. Accompanied by Dr. Bessels
and Hermann (one of the “ Polaris” men, a Ger-
man), and taking sufficient provisions to last a week,
we left the ship at 8 p.m. and stood in with a fair
fresh breeze, intending to land in Fearnall Bay, to
the southward of Cape Garry. When we arrived
within a mile of the shore, I found the water so
shallow as to utterly preclude the possibility of
landing, the dingy nearly grounding. Bearing
up, and running along the coast to the south-
ward, we managed to land round a point about
six miles from Cape Garry. Leaving Hermann in
charge of the boat, the doctor and myself started to
explore. Walking was by no means easy, in con-
sequence of the numerous streams we had to cross,
which, running down from the hills, emptied them- ~
selves into the sea. Having long boots on, this
difficulty was overcome by my taking the doctor
on my back and carrying him over. Unfortunately
one river was deeper than I imagined, and the
water coming over my knees, made me wet for the
remainder of the day. Having walked rather more
than two miles, we saw with my glasses what we
imagined to be the carcase of a whale washed up on .
the beach, but what was our surprise, when we
arrived at the spot, to find traces of a large Hsqui-
Walk into the Interior. - 251
maux village, most of the huts having been actually
composed of the ribs and trucks of whales. We
counted no less than thirty-four huts, seven of
which had originally been made of stone, seven
very old ones, and the remainder built from the
bones of whales. Sixty skulls had been used to
form the foundation and entrances to these “igloos.”
Tt would be interesting to know how these re-
mains of whales had reached this place, whether
they had been washed on shore, or whether they
had been killed by the inhabitants of the settle-
ment. Comparing these with the bones which we
found at Fury Beach, and which we knew to be
about fifty years of‘ age, I should say that no
Hsquimaux had been to this locality, at any rate to
reside, for fully eighty or a hundred years. I picked
up a couple of pieces of bone, which had evidently
been used either for a sledge or a kyak. We ob-
served traces of deer, bears, foxes, and lemmings,
and saw plenty of ducks and brent geese. About
1 a.m. we returned to the dingy, and having re-
freshed ourselves with Austrahan mutton and
biscuits, made sail again to the southward, the ship
being now nearly out of sight on the horizon.
Having sailed about six miles along the coast, we
landed on a point which formed the north extreme
of a large deep bay, unmarked on the chart ; where
I put up my horizon and got my first set of sights .
at about 3 a.m. The tide falling rapidly, almost
952. Reindeer.
before we were aware of it, left our dingy high and
dry, so we were compelled to wait for the flood tide.
The doctor and myself started for a walk towards
some high hills in the interior. Hoping to see
some big game, I took my rifle with me. Having
walked a little over six miles, and being rewarded
by finding limestone abounding with fossils, and
other geological specimens, I saw four deer, a buck,
two does, and a fawn, about three hundred yards
down a gentle incline between two hills. Ap-
proaching as stealthily as possible, I managed to
get within 150 yards, and fired at the buck, my
bullet taking effect, though not sufficiently to stop
him, and I had to fire more than once before I
brought him to the ground, the others making off.
Now came the question, what were we to do with
it? The idea that two men, not over fresh, should
drag a reindeer weighing 200 lbs. over very rough
ground, a distance of more than six miles, was —
simply absurd; so we resolved to return to the
boat, and bring her round to a bay nearer by half
a mile than the place where we had left her, and
then the three of us start and carry our prize down.
Accordingly, acting on this decision, we cleaned
it with our penknives, and dragging it about a
quarter of a mile to the summit of a hill, we left it
in a conspicuous place and returned to the dingy.
. To ensure our finding it, I tied my pocket-handker-
chief to one of its antlers, which blew out famously
Conveying our Game to the Boat. 253
in the breeze. It was eleven before we reached the
dingy, very tired and very hungry ; we regaled our-
_ selves on sardines and Australian meat, washed down
with a delicious glass of beer. Unfortunately it had
clouded over, and I was only able to get one obser-
vation of the sun and that none of the best. After a
couple of hours’ rest, we managed to get the boat
afloat, and sailed a little further up the bay, when,
making her fast, we all started to bring our game in.
We had walked barely half a mile, when I saw a
fine buck jumping and skipping about not very far
from us. Directing my companions to halt, I ap-
proached warily ; but the deer, not liking my looks,
began to scamper off, when I took a chance shot, the
bullet falling short, but splashing the water alongside
him, for it was marshy ground. This had the effect
of stopping him, and he turned round to look from
whence it came, offering me a fine shot. Raising
my sight to 300 yards, I fired ; the bullet passing
through his head and killing him at once. He
proved to be a fine fat buck, and, overjoyed at our
success, we slung him on an oar and carried him
down to the dingy, mighty glad to get there, as our
shoulders were getting very sore. We then started
a second time in search of our first deer, and even-
tually found it about five miles and a half from the
boat. By this time we were all pretty well done
up, so we determined, as the easiest way of carrying
it down, to cut it up, which was accordingly done.
254 Return on Board.
Hermann took the hind quarters, the doctor one —
fore quarter, | the other and the head. This, with
my rifle and ammunition, made a tolerably heavy
load for a weary man. I don’t believe I could have
gone a mile further, and was most thankful to get
down to the boat. I intended goimg on to the
south point of the bay, and then on to Bellot
Straits; but seeing the red ensign flying on board
the ship, we were forced to return, arriving at
7 p.m., after a most interesting and successful
twenty-four hours’ cruise.
Deer's head.
CHAPTER XIX.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
262 Prospects of an Open Season.
ourselves exactly in the same position we were forty-
eight hours ago, namely, off Cape Liverpool. We
shall be a long time getting home at this rate.
Perhaps the low barometer indicates a change of the
wind.
Sunday, August 17th.—The wind gradually sub-
sided until it fell altogether towards the evening,
and now we are, as we suppose, fifty miles off land,
about abreast of Pond’s Inlet, steaming toward the
south. Snow and rain fell at intervals during the
day, which was thick and cloudy; we steamed
through several extensive streams of loosely-
packed ice, gaining once more smooth water, which
is a great comfort. Poor little Bruin is not at all
reconciled to his captivity, and has been vainly
endeavouring to make a hole through his cask with
both teeth and claws. He is a savage little brute,
seizing anything within his reach, and is wonder-
fully strong and quick for so small an animal.
Monday, August 18th.—Several of our old friends,
the icebergs, are now in sight in various directions,
otherwise there is not a vestige of ice to be seen ;
no pack or stream-ice anywhere. The captain has
never seen Baffin’s Bay so clear, and this augurs
well for a good open season next year, as it causes
a free passage for the ice to come out of Smith’s,
Sound, while, in case of southerly winds, the ice
to the northward will more readily be broken up.
Everything points to the ensuing year as being the
‘
%
A
*
J
=
Coutts Inlet. 263
season for Arctic exploration. With a stout ship,
and a well organized and efficiently conducted
expedition, there is no reason why that hitherto un-
approachable spot, the North Pole, should not be
reached in a couple of seasons. This morning we
Bear and White Whale.
sighted the land about Coutts Inlet, but at such a
distance as scarcely to be able to distinguish any-
thing. It appears high, undulating land, and is
thickly coated with snow. The rapid manner in
which changes take place in these regions is most
remarkable. This morning, with the exception of
a few bergs, there was no ice visible, but this even-
ing we are amidst heavy pack-ice, some of the floes
264 Chase after a Bear.
being of great magnitude, which is causing us no
hittle trouble to get through. It has evidently
been set up by the late strong southerly winds. We
are about thirty miles off Cape Adair. It is most
annoying beime such a distance from land, for,
without making our passage longer, it would have
been so easy to have steamed along the coast, and
we could then have taken some useful observations.
This comes of trusting to a compass, when the
variation amounts to 130°. I had another chase
after a bear this afternoon, which we suddenly
disturbed in the middle of a feast. He had been
so scared by the sight of the ship, that he went
away over the ice and through the water at railway
speed ; and though we pursued him for half an hour in ~
our boat, we failed to get within shot. We revenged
ourselves by taking possession of his dinner, which
was found to be a white whale about fifteen feet
long. We removed the blubber, the most luxurious
part of his repast. This whale must have been
hauled up on the ice by the bear. The strength of
these animals is truly astonishing.
Shortly after tea a walrus was seen on a piece of
ice, and I went away as boat-steerer in the boat that
was lowered for the purpose of effecting its capture.
It was a huge monster, weighing at least a ton.
We sculled down quietly upon it. When just
within shot the creature lifted its head to take a
look at us, which movement breaking the piece of ice
EE ee ee ee
Communicate with the ** Victor.” 265
on which it lay, 1t was gradually disappearing, when
Deuchars fired, but unfortunately missed, the har-
poon striking over. I was sorry we were so unsuc-
cessful, as it was a gigantic brute, with tusks over
two feet in length.
Tuesday, August 19th.—Thick and foggy the
greater part of the day, the ship steaming and sail-
ing through extensive fields of pack-ice, and along
the edge of very heavy floes. Both yesterday and
to-day we passed an immense number of grounded
icebergs, some of great magnitude, and this will
probably account for the presence of so much ice.
The floes have been prevented from drifting out by
these huge mountains, which most effectually bar
their progress. At about 4 p.m. we sighted and
communicated with the little “ Victor,” and took on
board her home letters. We also saw the only
foreign whaler out, the “ Harold,” a Norwegian. She
is clean." At 8 o’clock we saw and communicated
with the “Tay,” and from Captain Grege’s account
of the state of the ice I much fear we shall have great
_ trouble in getting into the east water. He says it
is impossible to get to it. by going south ; unfortu-
nately we have a northerly wind, and therefore must
take advantage of it; I have no doubt we shall be
1 Being “clean,” in whaling parlance, means that the ship
has been unsuccessful and obtained zo fish. The dirtier the
ship the greater the delight of the captain and crew.
266 An Addition to our Company.
able to push through in about the latitude of Home
Bay or Exeter Sound.
We are now nearly in the latitude of Cape Kater
of the whalers (Cape Raper of the chart), but
nearly thirty miles from land. We see several of
the other ships, but it has come on so thick that
we must postpone communication with them until
morning. It is now midnight and nearly dark.
Wednesday, August 20th.—The morning broke
fine and clear, and found us surrounded by nearly
all the whaling fleet, two or three of which were
chasing fish. We have now taken on board from
the “‘ Ravenscraig” all the rest of the crew of the
“ Polaris,” excepting three that the “ Intrepid” has
on board. With the exception of Morton, all the
men we received on board to-day are grey-headed,
and certainly not the sort that one would pick out
to go to the North Pole;—I should say the
average age of the four would be over fifty years. —
We now number thirteen in the cabin; seven sit
down at the first table, and the others when they
have finished.
We are threading our way through miles of
loose pack-ice towards the southward. It is a
dead calm, and we are compelled to have recourse —
to our unfailing kettle. I hope the coals will last
out. This evening at 7.30 I witnessed for the
first time a most perfect and brilliant parhelion, the
angle between the true and mock suns being
‘
:
a
=
t
OF Oban oe yee
A Brilliant Parhelion. 267
22° 17’ 30” and the true altitude of the former
5° 24’ 80’; the mock sun was to the southward of
the true one. It is a belief amongst old Arctic
sailors that these phenomena always precede bad
weather.
a
Iceberg.
CHAPTER XX.
CONCLUSION.
nee HURSDAY, August 21st—We are all,
especially myself, sadly disappoited
I with the progress the ship has made
during the last twenty-four hours. The
uncertainty of everything in these regions sorely
tries one’s temper. Last night we got into a fine
open water, which we were all convinced would
lead us out into the east water somewhere abreast
of Home Bay; and congratulated ourselves accord-
ingly. But this afternoon disclosed, to our great
disappointment, ice, heavy solid floes, stretching
away from the land to the eastward as far as the
eye could see, without even a crack or anything
approaching a lead through. We are in a regular
cul de sac. To add to our misfortune, a fresh
breeze has sprung up from the eastward, which
will pack all the ice tight up against the land floe,
and we may consider ourselves lucky if we avoid
getting beset and being jammed up here for a few
Annoying Detentions. 269
days. Our only way of escape is by retracing our
steps to the northward, and getting round the north
end of the middle ice; but the weather has become
so thick, accompanied by snow, that it is impossible
to see our way out, and we are now lying, hove to,
waiting for it to clear. We received a visit to-day
from Captain Gravill, of the ‘‘ Camperdown,” bring-
ing us his home letters. At noon to-day we were
abreast of Cape Bisson, and I obtained tolerably
good sights.
Friday, August 22nd.—This detention is most
annoying. ‘Ten days ago we considered ourselves
homeward bound, and, anticipating a quick run
across the Atlantic, were looking forward to being
in Dundee by the Ist of September; instead of
which we are now jammed in a water hole off Cape
Kater, with at present no prospect of getting out
for some time. ‘The spirits of all on board are in
consequence rather depressed. Snow has been
falling heavily all day. During the afternoon the
wind gradually went down, and we have now a
hight northerly breeze, and are seeking a passage
out through the ice to the eastward.
Sunday, August 24th.—Retracing our steps to
the northward. At noon we were as far south as
Cape Bisson, but from the masthead nothing ap-
peared but an impenetrable sea of ice, a second
Melville Bay, through which there was no chance
of forcing a passage. The helm was accordingly
270 Dreary Prospects.
put up, yards squared, and we are running north
before a light southerly wind. I am afraid it will
take us at least two days to get round the north
end of the middle ice.
Wednesday, August 27th.—The last three days
have added nothing to our progress. In fact, our
prospects of getting home are not nearly so bright
as they were fifteen days ago, when the announce-
ment that we were homeward bound was received
with three cheers by all hands. We have unfor-
tunately seen fish, and our captain seems bent on
getting more ; he says, “ he will be happy with ane
or twa mair.’’? The weather is thick, and raining
heavily; we are about seventy miles from land,
somewhere in the latitude of Cape Hewitt, and are
made fast to a floe, taking in water. It is next to
impossible to do anything. Huchre commenced at
half-past 9 this forenoon, and even with my cabin ©
door shut I cannot avoid hearing incessantly from -
the adjoining cabin, “‘What’s trumps?” “‘ Steward,
a mouthful more of that brandy ;” ‘ Who played
the rag?” Bo Bal!
foal
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“EL8T NI « OILOUY ,, HHL dO ADVAOA GHI PNINNG CaHNALAV) SHTVH AA AO AZIG GQNV GNIVA ALVWIXOUddy
“VY xIdNdddy
280 Aopendin Ae
NOTE ON THE BOILING DOWN OF THE
BLUBBER.
/E blubber on board the whaling steamers arrives
RS at Dundee in large tanks. It is there filled into
Sau casks, and taken to the boil-yard, to have the oil
extracted. This operation is done by steam, in large coppers
holding blubber sufficient to yield ten tons of oil. The seal
blubber is so fresh when landed that it used to be kept stored
in the boil-yard for six or eight weeks, until it was so decom-
posed that the oil might be easily taken out of it. But within
the last year, the ‘Dundee Seal and Whale Fishing Com-
~
pany” have fitted up machinery for cutting and crushing the
blubber, and can now boil it down as soon as it is landed.
For some purposes the oil thus reduced is more valuable.
After being boiled, the oil is allowed to settle in coolers, and —
is then run into large storing tanks, ready for delivery as
required.
Appendix B. 281
APPENDIX B.
ARCTIC PLANTS COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN A. H.
MARKHAM, R.N., F.R.G:S.
1873.
Name.
Ranunculus glacialis (Z.)
Papaver alpinum (Z.)
Lychnis apetola (Z.)
Stellaria Edwardsii (R. Br.)
Dryas octopetala (Z.)
Saxifraga cespitosa (Z.)
= nivalis (Z.)
» flagellaris ( Willd.)
05 oppositifolia (Z.)
Pedicularis hirsuta (Z.)
Juncus biglumis (Z.)
Salix arctica (R. Br.)
Alopecurus alpinus (Z.)
Festuca ovina (L.) var.
Locality.
Fury Beach. Elwyn Inlet.
Fury Beach. Elwyn Inlet.
Navy Board Inlet.
Fury Beach.
Elwyn Inlet. Fury Beach.
Navy Board Inlet.
Fury Beach.
Fury Beach.
Fury Beach.
Port Leopold. Elwyn Inlet.
Pleuropogon Sabini (R. Br.) Fury Beach.
Navy Board Inlet. Elwyn
Inlet.
Fury Beach.
14’ S. of Cape Garry.
Fury Beach.
6’ S. of Cape Garry.
Lichens.
6’ S. of Cape Garry. Fury
Platysma juniperinum (L.)
Beach.
Alectoria ochroleuca (Ehrh.) Fury Beach.
Pants FRom 82° N.;
FROM THE COLLECTION OF Dr.
BeEssE.Ls.
Draba alpina (Z.)
Cerastium alpinum (Z.)
Taraxacum Dens-leonis (Desf. var.)
Poa flexuosa ( Wahi.)
282 Appendia B.
NOTE BY J. D. HOOKER, C.B., P.R.S.
2 APTAIN MARKHAMWMY’S collection contains twenty
{ (zon species of flowering plants, including four collected
i] by Dr. Bessels in the highest latitude from which
flowering plants have hitherto been obtained, namely 82° N.
They are Draba alpina, Cerastium alpinum, Taraxacum
Dens-leonis, and Poa flexuosa. All of them are common
Arctic plants, being found on both coasts of Greenland, as
well as throughout the Parry Islands. Of the other species,
collected by Captain Markham himself, the Arctic distribution
is well known. None of them belong to the remarkable
assemblage of Scandinavian plants which inhabit Greenland,
and of which no member has hitherto been found on the
eastern shores of Baffin’s Bay. On the other hand, one of
them is a member of that far smaller number which has never
been found on the Greenland coast. This is the peculiar and
beautiful little Pleuropogon Sabini, the only genus which is
absolutely confined to the Arctic regions, and of which the
solitary species is restricted in its distribution to the Arctic .
American Islands. It was discovered by Captain, now
General Sir Edward, Sabine, in Melville Island, during Parry’s
first voyage in 1819-20, and is probably found in all the
islands. Captain Markham’s specimen was gathered on Fury
Beach.
The other species call for no special remark. They are
‘interesting as, in several cases, coming from places where the *
same plant had not previously been gathered. These locali-
ties are valuable, as completing our knowledge of the area
inhabited by such species, though they do not materially
enlarge it.
Appendix C. 283
APPENDIX C.
LIST OF GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS
COLLECTED BY
CAPTAIN A. H. MARKHAM, R.N., F.R.G:S.,
AND EXAMINED BY
R. ETHERIDGE, Ese.,
Museum or Practican Gronoey.
rentian series of Cape Wrath (Sutherlandshire).
: 2. Crystals of felspar, also like those in the Suther-
landshire rocks. 3, 4. Quartz rocks.
Ades
Etwyn Iniet.—Piece of quartz rock, and quartzite.
Carr Hay.—Two pieces of limestone, extremely like that
of the Durness in N.W. Sutherlandshire, of Llandeilo age
(Lower Silurian).—T'wo specimens of Saxicava rugosa, from
150 feet above the sea level.
Navy Boarp Inrer.—Specimens of fundamental gneiss
like that of Cape Wrath, hornblende rock, mica schist, quartz-
ite, and magnesian limestone.
Porr Leoroip.—Syenite, felspar, and quartz, like the
Cape Wrath rocks. An alternation of limestone and sand-
stone, probably Silurian. Gneissose rock, much the same as
the fundamental gneiss of N. W. Sutherlandshire. A specimen
showing annelide tracks, in fine-grained sandstone.
Fury Bracu.—Specimens of gneiss, hornblende, quartz,
and gneissose rock, much like the fundamental series of
Sutherlandshire. Argillaceous limestone, with the following
fossils of the Upper Silurian age:—Favosites (two specimens) ;
Athyris, sp. (two specimens) ; Holopella, sp.
284 3 Appendix C.
Carr Garry.—Hornblende, and quartz rock stained red
colour. Crystals of calcareous spar (carbonate of lime), con-
cretionary limestone. Limestone containing several fossils of
uncertain age. Chonetes and Terebratula of the Upper
Silurian age.
Several of the specimens, having been picked up on the
beach, are much waterworn.
Mollies.
Appendix D.
Appenpix D.
LIST OF BIRDS SHOT.
SALP/YR Falcon (Falco gyrfalco)
isl
Snow Bunting (Emberiza nivalis) !
Redcap, and Finches .
ae and Hider Duck (Somateria spechibtte and mol-
lissitma) A : :
Long-tailed Duck F uligula glacialis)
Loom (Uria Brunichit)
Dovekey (Uria grylle)
Little Auks or Rotges (Alca alle)
Glaucous Gull (Larus glaucus) .
Ivory Gull (Larus eburneus) :
Fulmar Petrel or ‘* Mollies” (@Pnoerlidria wilicialis)
Arctic Tern (Sterna arctica)
o
So
Os Wl Oe We)
’ The nest was also obtained.
286 Scientific Results of
APPENDIX E.
MEMORANDUM FOR THE ARCTIC COMMITTEE
OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY.
JuNE, 1873.
y| Society submitted to the committee appointed by
S| the Council of the Royal Society to confer with
them, the following memorandum on the subject of a renewal
of Arctic exploration.
General Scientific Results ——The results of scientific im-
portance to be derived from an examination of the immense
unknown area round the North Pole are as numerous as the
region to be explored is extensive. It may be shown that no
such extent of unknown area, in any part of the world, ever
failed to yield results of practical as well as of purely
scientific value; and it may safely be urged that, as it is
mathematically certain that the area exists, it is impossible
that its examination can fail to add largely to the sum of
human knowledge. Further, it is necessary to bear in mind
that the polar area is, in many most important respects, of an
altogether special character, affording exclusive opportunities
for observing the condition of the earth’s surface, and the
physical phenomena there to be seen, under certain extreme
and singular circumstances, which are due to the relation of
this area to the position of the axis of revolution of the
terrestrial spheroid, and which have to be considered not only
with reference to the present time, but to the earth’s past
history. It may be, therefore, received as certain that dis-
coveries will be made in all branches of science, the exact
nature of which cannot be anticipated. But there are also
Arctic Exploration. 287
numerous objects, that have been stated and enumerated by
the presidents and officers of the several scientific societies,
the attainment of which make it desirable to despatch an
Arctic expedition of discovery. These are as follows :—
Geography.—A geovraphical problem of great importance
and interest will be solved by completing the circuit of Green-
land, ascertaining the extent and nature of its northern coast,
exploring the land to the westward, and discovering the con-
ditions of land and sea in that portion of the unknown area.
Hydrography.—An Arctic expedition is a necessary com-
plement to the expedition now investigating the ocean bottom
in the middle and southern latitudes of the globe. The
hydrography of the unknown seas has a most important
bearing on the general question of oceanic currents, a question
which is of practical consequence to navigation. Our know-
ledge of the general system of currents will be incomplete
without an investigation of the currents, deep-sea tempera-
tures, and soundings in the unknown area. Observations, at
great depths, with the improved instruments now in use,
would be of much value in connection with the like obser-
vations which are being carried on by the expedition now
exploring the tropical seas.
Geodesy.—A series of pendulum observations at the highest
latitude possible, following upon the series just completed in
India, and made with the same instruments after verification
at Kew, will be of essential service to the science of Geodesy.
Neither the data for forming a mathematical theory of the
physical constitution of the earth, nor the means of testing
such a theory, are complete without experimental determina-
tions of the intensity as well as the direction of the force of
gravity, and such observations would be especially valuable
at the North Pole.
Meteorology.—Observations of the temperature of the sea
at various depths; of temperature and pressure of the atmo-
sphere; and of prevailing winds, with reference to currents,
288 Scientific Results of
in very high latitudes, will form valuable contributions to
meteorological science. The present state of meteorology
requires a more thorough investigation of the motions of the
earth’s atmosphere than has yet been undertaken; and for
this important object the less frequented parts of the earth’s
surface should be studied as well as the most frequented.
The climate of Europe in no small degree depends on the
atmospheric conditions of the polar area, in which the deve-
lopment of extremely low temperatures necessarily leads to
corresponding extreme changes of pressure and other atmo-
spheric disturbances, the effects of which are felt far into the
temperate zone. For the satisfactory appreciation of these
phenomena, a precise knowledge of the distribution of land
and water within the polar area is quite necessary, and any
addition to our geographical knowledge of the Arctic region,
accompanied by suitable observations of its meteorology, cannot
fail to afford improved means of understanding the meteoro-
logy of our own country and of the earth generally.
Magnetism and Physics—The extension of research ito
the phenomena of magnetism and atmospheric electricity, in
the vicinity of the poles, will necessarily be of much scientific
importance; and generally, so far as the conditions of the
climate and the means of an exploring expedition will permit,
investigations in all branches of physics in the proximity of
the pole, where so many of the forces of nature operate in an
extreme degree—either of excess or defect—will surely be
followed by the acquisition of knowledge which can only be
obtained in those exceptional localities.
The study of the aurora, which is among the most striking
phenomena visible on our planet, is almost impossible in low
latitudes ; while the advance of spectrum analysis has given
the means of determining the chemical elements involved, so
that all that seems required here is the means of applying
this description of observation ; and this can only be got near
the pole.
Arctic Exploration. 289
The separation of the terrestrial lines from the truly solar
ones in the solar spectrum, as seen from the earth’s surface, is
another important desideratum, inquiry into which can only
be well pursued in high latitudes, where the path of the sun
at low altitudes above the horizon gives opportunities for the
necessary observations not to be secured elsewhere.
Geology.—A more complete investigation of the geology of
the Arctic regions is extremely desirable, both for its scientific
importance and the value of its practical results. The exist-
ence of Carboniferous, Jurassic, and Miocene rocks is known,
but much is needed to be done to obtain complete collections
of their organic remains. The existence of a true paleozoic
coal formation has been determined, but we require to know
its extent and composition.
One of the most interesting facts of late years acquired to
geological science has been that of a luxuriant and highly
organized vegetation, of the Miocene age, on the east coast
of Greenland; a fact alluded to further on under the head of
Botany. It is of great importance that some determinations
based on fragments of leaves should be confirmed by the
acquisition of more perfect foliage, as well as of seeds and
fruits; such materials would be of great value in illustrating
a flora which is in itself of much interest, but this interest is
vastly increased when one realizes the important inquiries
on which such knowledge would throw light. These inquiries
are :—
1. The geographical distribution of the Miocene flora, as
indicated by the agreements and differences between
the Miocene plants of Arctic regions and of Central
and Southern Europe.
2. The relation of the Miocene flora to previous and sub-
sequent vegetations, and its bearings on the present
geographical distribution of plants on the globe.
3. The evidence derived from these plants as to the physical
conditions of the globe in past geological epochs.
U
290 Scientific Results of
Tt is certain that additional localities for fossil plants will >
be discovered, and of necessity additional species be brought
to licht, for, in the past, such remains have been found as far
as explorers have penetrated.
From the important part extreme cold has of late years
been found to have played in the last geological, or glacial,
period, it would be of much value to have exact observations
of the effects produced on the rocks by the intense cold of
the northern regions; to ascertain the extent, height, and
range of the glaciers; and to note their effects on the surface
of the country and on the different classes of rocks. Again,
it would be interesting to determine the extent of the river
floods, and the depths of the channels they have excavated in
the Arctic regions.
Another desirable object of the proposed Arctic expedition
would be the investigation of the mollusca, not only of marine,
but also of land and fresh-water kinds. In a geological, as
well as a zoological point of view, such an investigation
would be especially valuable. The palzontological basis of
the glacial epoch consists mainly in the identity of certain
species which inhabit the Polar Seas, and are fossil in Great
Britain and elsewhere. But such species may owe their pre-
sent habitat and position to other than climatal causes, viz.
to the action of marine currents. It is quite a mistake to
assume that Arctic species are few in number; we know
very little about them, because the exploration of the cireum-
polar seas by means of the dredge is so difficult. But the
researches of the Scandinavian zoologists show that the Arctic
marine invertebrate fauna is extremely varied and numerous.
All fossils should be diligently collected, and their positions
accurately noted. The conditions and climate of the Arctic
regions at the later geological periods may be thus ascertained,
and a new chapter opened in the history of our globe.
The mineralogy of the Greenland continent is also im-
portant, and the discovery of new veins of cryolite and other
Arctic Exploration. 291
valuable minerals is not improbable. Masses of metcoric
iron have been recently discovered by the Swedish expedition,
extending for a distance of not less than 200 miles; these
require further study, and to have their position determined.
Botany.—The vegetation of the Arctic regions, in the
opinion of Dr. Hooker, throws. great light upon the geogra-
phical distribution of plants on the surface of the globe. On
the return of Sir Edward Belcher’s expedition from those
regions, a series of rocks collected in the neighbourhood of
Disco by his former fellow-voyager, Dr. Lyall, were placed in
Dr. Hooker's hands, containing an accumulation of fossil
leaves of plants totally different from any now growing in
that latitude. These fossils he forwarded to Professor O.
Heer, of Ziirich, for investigation, who has brought forward
the most convincing proofs that that latitude was once inha-
bited by extensive forests, presenting fifty or sixty different
species of arborescent trees, most of them with deciduous
leaves, some 3 in. or 4in. in diameter—the elm, pine, oak,
maple, plane, &c.; and what was more remarkable still, evi-
dence of apparently evergreen trees, showing that these
regions must have had perennial light. It seems ex-
tremely probable that the vegetation which belonged to
the Miocene period extended over a large portion of the
northern Arctic regions. It would be of great interest to
ascertain whether such vegetation extends towards the Pole,
and there is nothing that would give greater assistance in
solving this problem than the proposed expedition along
Smith Sound. Turning to the existing flora of Greenland,
Dr. Hooker has pointed out that, though one of the most
poverty-stricken on the globe, it is possessed of unusual
interest. It consists of some 300 kinds of flowering plants
(besides a very large number of mosses, alge, lichens, &c.),
and presents the following peculiarities: —1. The flowering
plants are almost without exception natives of the Scandi-
navian peninsula. 2. There is in the Greenland flora scarcely
292 Scientific Results of
any admixture of American types, which nevertheless are
found on the opposite coast of Labrador and the Parry Islands.
3. A considerable proportion of the common Greenland plants
are nowhere found in Labrador and the Parry Islands, nor,
indeed, elsewhere in the New World. 4. The parts of Green-
land south of the Arctic circle, though warmer than those _
north of it, and presenting a coast 400 miles in length, con-
tain scarcely any plants not found to the north of that circle.
5. A considerable number of Scandinavian plants which are
not natives of Greenland are nevertheless natives of Labrador
and the Parry Islands. 6. Certain Greenland and Scandi-
navian plants, which are nowhere found in the polar plains,
Labrador, or Canada, re-appear at considerable elevations on
the White, and the Alleghany, and other mountains of the
United States. No other flora known to naturalists presents
such a remarkable combination of peculiar features as this,
and the only solution hitherto offered is not yet fully accepted.
It is that the Scandinavian flora (which Dr. Hooker has shown
evidence of being one of the oldest on the globe) did, during
the warm period preceding the glacial—a period warmer than
the present—extend in force over the Polar regions, including
Greenland, the polar American islands, and probably much
now submerged land in places connecting or lying between
Greenland and Scandinavia, at which time Greenland no doubt
presented a much richer Scandinavian flora than it now does.
On the accession of the glacial period, this flora would be
driven slowly southward, down to the extremity of the Green-
land peninsula in its longitude, and down to the latitude of
the Alleghanies and White Mountains in their longitudes.
The effect in Greenland would be to leave there only the
more Arctic forms of vegetation, unchanged in habits or
features, the rest being, as it were, driven into the sea. But
the effect on the American continent would be to bring the
Scandinavian flora into competition with an American flora
that pre-occupied the lands into which it was driven. On the
Arctic Exploration. 293
decline of the glacial epoch, Greenland, being a peninsula,
could be repeopled with plants only by the northward migra-
tion of the purely Scandinavian species that had been pre-
viously driven into its southern extremity; and the result
would be a uniform Scandinavian flora throughout its length, |
and this an Arctic one, from north to south. But in America
a very different state of things would supervene; the Scan-
dinavian plants would not only migrate north, but ascend the
Alleghanies, White Mountains, &c.; and the result would be
that, on the one hand, many Scandinavian plants which had
been driven out of Greenland, but were preserved in the
United States, would reappear on the Parry Islands and
Labrador, accompanied with sundry American mountain
types ; and, on the other, that a few Greenland-Scandinavian
types which had been lost in the struggle with the American
types during their northward migration, and which hence
do not reappear in Labrador and the Parry Islands, might
well be preserved in the Alleghanies and White Mountains.
And, lastly, that a number of Scandinavian plants which had
changed their form or habit during the migration in America
in conflict with the American types, would appear in the
Parry Islands as American varieties or representative species
of Scandinavian plants.
Whether or no this be a true hypothesis, it embraces all
the facts; and botanists look anxiously to further explora-
tions in the northern parts of Greenland for more light on the
subject, and especially for evidence of rising or sinking of the
land in Smith Sound and the countries north and east of it,
and for evidences of ancient connection between Greenland
and Scandinavia ; for observations on the temperature, direc-
tion, and depth of transporting currents in these seas, and on
the habits of its ruminant migrating animals, that may have
influenced the distribution of the vegetation by transporting
the seeds. Such facts as those of the existence of ancient
forests in what are now Arctic regions, and of the migration
294 Scientific Results of
of existing flore over lands now bound fast in perpetual ice,
appear to some naturalists to call for vaster changes than can
be brought about by a redisposition of the geographical limits
of land and sea, and to afford evidence of changes in the
direction of the earth’s axis to the plane of its orbit, and
perhaps of variations in the ellipticity of the orbit itself.
It has thus been shown that much interest attaches to the
Greenland flora, which is far from being exhausted. And
besides these general questions, there are others respecting
specific subjects, of which our existing knowledge is very
imperfect. A great interest attaches to the minute forms of
vegetable life which swarm in polar areas, affording food to
the cetaceze and other marine animals, and which colour the
surface of the ocean and its bottom likewise. Many of these
forms are common to the Arctic and Antarctic seas, and have
actually been far better studied in the latter than in the
former sea. Of land plants the lichens and mosses require
much further collection and study, and the Arctic marine
flora is most imperfectly known. Ample collections of
flowering plants should be made, with a view of testing the
variability of species and their distribution; and observations
on the means of transport of land plants by winds, currents,
ice, and migrating animals, are very much wanted. .
Zoology.—With regard to the specific results in zoology
which may be expected from the proposed expedition, they
are numerous and important. It is now known that the
Arctic Ocean teems with life, and that of the more minute
organized beings the multitude of kinds is prodigious; these
play a most important part, not only in the economy of
organic nature, but in the formation of sedimentary deposits,
which in future geological periods will become incorporated
with these rock-formations, whose structure has only lately
been explained by the joint labours of zoologists and geolo-
gists.
The kinds of these animals, the relations they bear to one
Arctic Exploration. 295
another, and to the larger animals (such as whales, seals, &c.
towards whose food they so largely contribute), the conditions
under which they live, the depths they inhabit, their changes
of form, &c., at different seasons of the year and at different
stages of their lives; and, lastly, their distribution according
to geographical areas, warm and cold currents, &c., are all
subjects of which very little is known.
With regard to the fish, mollusea, echinodermata, corals,
sponges, &c., of the Arctic zones, those of Greenland alone
have been explored with anything approaching to satisfactory
results. A knowledge of their habits and habitats is much
desiderated, as are good specimens for our museums. More
important still would be anatomical and physiological investi-
' gations, and observations on those animals under their natural
conditions.
With regard to the migrations of birds, Professor Newton,
of Cambridge, has drawn attention to some interesting points
connected with the examination of the unknown area.
The shores of the British Islands, and of many other
countries in the northern hemisphere, are annually, for a
longer or shorter period, frequented by a countless multitude
of birds, which, there is every reason to believe, resort in
summer to very high northern latitudes, for purposes the most
important; and, since they continue the practice year after
year, they must find the migration conducive to their advan-
tage. There must be some water which is not always frozen;
secondly, there must be some land on which they may set
their feet; and thirdly, there must be plenty of food, supplied
either by the water or by the land, or by both, for their
nourishment and that of their progeny.!
' Professor Newton has furnished a short account of the moye-
ments of one species of birds—the knot—TZringa canutus of orni-
thologists. ‘The knot is something halfway between a snipe and a
plover. Examples of it are commonly to be seen in the cage at the
296 Scientific Results of
Ethnology.—The knowledge already acquired of the Arctic
regions leads to the conclusion that the discovery of the
unknown portion of the Greenland coast will yield very im-
portant results in the science of anthropology.
southern end of the fish house in the Zoological Gardens, and may
be seen there at the present time. Like many other kinds of birds
belonging to the same.group, the colour of its plumage varies most
wonderfully according to the season of the year. In summer it is of
a bright brick-red; in winter it is of a sober ashy-grey. Kept in
confinement, it seldom assumes its most brilliant tints, but some
approach to them is generally made. Now the knot comes to this
country in vast flocks in spring, and, after remaining on our coasts
for about a fortnight, can be traced proceeding gradually northwards
till it takes its departure. People who have been in Iceland and
Greenland have duly noted its appearance in those countries ; but in
neither of them is it known to tarry longer than with us—the
summer it would there have to endure is not to its liking; and as we
know that it takes no other direction, it must move further north.
We then lose sight of it for some weeks. The older naturalists used
to imagine it had been found breeding in all manner of countries,
but the naturalists of the present day agree in believing that we
know nothing of its nidification. Towards the end of summer it
comes back to us in still larger flocks than before, and both old birds
and young haunt our coasts till November; if the season be a very
open one, some may stay later; but our winter, as a rule, is too
much for it, and away it goes southwards, and very far southwards
too, till the following spring. What has been said of the knot in the
United Kingdom is equally true of it on the eastern shores of the
United States, There it appears in the same abundance and at the
same seasons as with us, and its movements seem to be regulated by
the same causes.
Hence we may fairly infer that the lands visited by the knot in
the middle of summer are less sterile than Iceland or Greenland, or
it would hardly pass over those countries, which are known to be
the breeding-places of swarms of water-birds, to resort to regions
worse off as regards supply of food. But the supply of food must
depend chiefly on the climate. The inference necessarily is that,
beyond the northern tracts already explored, there is a region which
enjoys in summer a climate more genial than they possess. It would
Arctic Exploration. 297
Light may not improbably be thrown upon the mysterious
wanderings of those northern tribes, traces of which are found
in every bay and on every cape in the cheerless Parry group, as
well as up to the further point that has been reached beyond
Smith Sound; and these wanderings may be found to be the
most distant waves of storms raised in far-off centres, and
among other races. Many circumstances connected with the
still unknown northern tribes may tend to elucidate such in-
quiries.
There are other investigations which would undoubtedly
yield valuable materials for the student of man. Such would
be carefully prepared notes on the skulls, the features, the
stature, the dimensions of limbs, the intellectual and moral
state of individuals belonging to a hitherto isolated and un-
known tribe; also on their religious ideas, on their super-
stitions, laws, language, songs, and traditions; on their
weapons and methods of hunting; and on their skill in de-
lineating the topography of the region within the range of
their wanderings.
The condition of an isolated tribe, deprived of the use of
wood or metals, and dependent entirely upon bone and stone
for the construction of all implements and utensils, is also a
subject of study with reference to the condition of mankind
in the stone age of the world; and a careful comparison of
the former, as reported by explorers, with the latter, as
deduced from the contents of tumuli and caves, will probably
be of great importance in the advancement of the science
of man.
Having thus epitomized the various scientific subjects which
be easy to summon more instances from the same group of birds,
tending to show that beyond a zone where a rigorous summer reigns
there may be a region endowed with a comparatively favourable
climate. If so, surely the conditions which produce such a climate
are worth investigating.
298 Arguments for
await investigation within the Polar area, it only remains to
explain, from the knowledge and experience acquired up to
the present time, why such researches can best be success-
fully accomplished by a naval expedition despatched under
Government auspices, and secured as far as possible from
failure or disaster by careful organization and good discipline.
It is now exactly a century since—in the year 1773—the
British Government, moved by the Royal Society,! despatched
' The Royal Society took an active part in the furtherance of
Arctic exploration up to the year 1845, and it is to be hoped that
that eminent body will still persevere in a policy which has almost
become traditional, and which has invariably been successful; for it
cannot be said that any Arctic expedition despatched under their
auspices ever returned empty-handed, or without an extension of our
knowledge of the polar seas, except that of 1845, when all the
valuable results of three years’ labour of Sir John Franklin’s asso-
ciates perished with that expedition. 1
In consequence of the representations contained in papers sub-
mitted by the Hon. Daines Barrington in 1773, the Royal Society
resolved to apply to Lord Sandwich, then First Lord of the Ad-
miralty, to obtain his Majesty’s sanction for an expedition to be
fitted out to explore the North Polar area. In a letter, dated
January 19, 1773, the subject was recommended to Lord Sandwich,
and it was urged that such discovery would be of service to the
promotion of natural knowledge.
The wishes of the council of the Royal Society were immediately
complied with, and it was ordered that an expedition should be
undertaken, “‘ with every encouragement that could countenance
such an enterprise, and every assistance that could contribute to its
success.” The command was given to Captain Phipps, afterwards
Lord Mulgrave. The instructions were drawn up by Mr. N. Mas-
kelyne, the Rev. H. Horsley, Mr. Cavendish, and Dr. Maty.
The comparative failure of Captain Phipps did not damp the
ardour of the Royal Society. Early in 1774, the council minutes
show that another expedition was frequently the subject of debate 5
and in February, 1774, a memorial was presented by the Royal
Society to the Admiralty. This led to Captain Cook’s attempt on
the Pacific side ; the expedition sailing in June, 1776.
In 1817 the council of the Royal Society resumed the considera-
an Arctic Expedition. 299
the first polar expedition of modern times, under Captain
Phipps, subsequently Lord Mulgrave, and in which expedition
Lord Nelson served as a midshipman. But this, like all other
s
tion of the best means of prosecuting Arctic discovery, and a letter
was addressed by Sir Joseph Banks to Lord Melville, dated Novem-
ber 20, 1817. A favourable reply was received on the 10th of
December, in which it was announced that his Majesty’s Govern-
ment had deemed it their duty, in conformity with the suggestion of
the Royal Society, to give orders for the fitting out of four suitable
yessels, with a view to the important objects of Arctic discovery ;
two to proceed up Davis’ Strait, and the other two along the east
coast of Greenland to the northward. In a scientific point of view
these expeditions were fruitful of results, including Sabine’s mag-
netic observations.
On the return of Ross, another expedition was despatched in May,
1819, commanded by Parry ; when Sabine again made valuable
magnetic and pendulum observations.
In 1826 the council of the Royal Society again turned its atten-
tion to Arctic discovery, and Captain Parry proposed a plan to
attempt to reach the North Pole by means of travelling with sledge-
boats over the ice. Sir Humphry Davy, the President, wrote to
Lord Melville, expressing the conviction of the council that Parry's
expedition could not fail to afford several valuable scientific results,
and to settle many important matters of scientitic inquiry. Lord
Melville replied “ that, the council having no doubt balanced all the
probable advantages, and having declared in favour of the expedi-
tion, I do not feel myself at liberty to withhold my assent to Captain
Parry’s earnest request.” Ina letter to the council, Captain Parry
says that ‘the liberal and enlightened views of the council mainly
led to the adoption of the enterprise by the Admiralty.”
In 1839 the despatch of the Antarctic expedition commanded by
Sir James Ross, though originally suggested by a committee ap-
pointed by the British Association, was urgently advocated by the
president and council of the Royal Society, who threw themselves
unreservedly and with their whole weight into the scale, with im-
mediate and decisive effect. The council of the Royal Society then
drew up a report containing a detailed account of every object of
inquiry which should receive attention from the explorers.
In 1845 the council of the Royal Society again urged the im-
300 _ Arguments for
expeditions sent vid Spitzbergen, failed in its purpose of
penetrating within the 80th parallel; and although Mackenzie
and Hearn, on the American continent, just traced the two
rivers which bear their names into the Arctic Sea, nothing in
the last century was added to geographical knowledge within
the Arctic zone to the rough outline of Baflin’s Bay, as dis-
covered by that great navigator in 1616; and, apart from that
mere outline of Baffin’s Bay and Spitzbergen, the entire area
of the Arctic zone was a blank, so far as all human knowledge
was concerned.
In the year 1818 the Royal Society, prompted by Sir
Joseph Banks and Sir John Barrow, then Secretary to the
Admiralty, took up actively the subject of Arctic exploration,
and between that period and 1833, the successive expeditions
of Franklin, Parry, Back, John and James Ross, Sabine,
Buchan, Beechey, and Lyons added much to our geographical
knowledge, and threw new light on the meteorology, botany,
hydrography, terrestrial magnetism, zoology, and ethnology of
a previously unknown portion of the earth’s surface.
After the discovery of the exact position of the magnetic
pole by Sir James Ross in 1831-33, Arctic exploration may be
said to have paused ; but it is worthy of remark that, during
the fifteen years it had thus been actively pursued by seamen
and travellers with the then imperfect means at command, no
loss of life had occurred, although there had been occasionally
more than two hundred men at a time employed upon these
expeditions.
In 1845 the subject of Arctic research in various branches
of natural science was again taken up by the Royal Society,
and that year a fresh Arctic expedition was despatched by our
portance of Arctic research, and their representations led to the
despatch of the Franklin expedition, since which time no Govern-
ment scientific expedition has been fitted out for the exploration of —
the unknown area round the North Pole.
an Arctic Expedition. 301
Government, in which there were various persons eminent in
science, under the command of Sir John Franklin.
It consisted of two sailing ships, with auxiliary steam-power
of a very imperfect nature, and both in that respect, as well
as in their general equipment, stores, and provisioning, they
fell far short of what an Arctic expedition of the present day
would liave at command; but subsequent events reveal to us
that this expedition succeeded in making one of the most
remarkable Arctic voyages on record, and that they perished,
after abandoning their ships, at a position near the entrance
of the Great Fish River, where, had proper foresight been
exercised, they could easily have been rescued. Subsequent
experience has shown that the fatal omission which led to this
catastrophe was the want of proper depots of provisions being
arranged so as to cover the escape of the crews, in the event
of disaster to the ships—a measure of precaution which, since
that disaster, has always been carefully provided for in all
subsequent expeditions with signal success. This expedition
of Sir John Franklin in 1845 was the last scventific expedition
sent by Great Britain into the Arctic regions. In 1848 the
search for Franklin’s expedition was pressed on the Govern-
ment by the public, and from that date up to 1861—a period
of thirteen years—was steadily persevered in, no less than
fourteen public and private expeditions having gone and
returned during that period. So far as the people in those
expeditions were concerned, they all returned in safety, and
the proportion of deaths from climate and disease was con-
siderably less than the average death-rate of our naval sea-
men on any other service; and this im spite of the extra-
ordinarily severe exposure and labour to which men and
officers were subjected, by the novel introduction of sledge-
travelling whilst the expeditions were frozen-in in winter
quarters. Dr. Donnet, Deputy Inspector-General of fleets
and hospitals, shows that at one period, out of 1,878 persons
who wintered repeatedly in these expeditions, the death-rate
302 Arguments for
was only 1°7 per cent., and states that the risk from climate
and disease in a voyage to the Arctic seas “is not greater
than that which a ship like the ‘ Challenger’ will incur in her
voyage of discovery.” These fourteen searching expeditions
were equipped simply for the purpose of rescuing Franklin,
and in no wise professed to be of an exploratory or scientific
character ; and it was only incidentally, and as a pure matter
of individual zeal, that any one turned his attention to
scientific observation, although, as a matter of fact, the various
observations made by officers during their explorations con-
tributed considerably not only to geographical, but to other
branches of natural knowledge.
The general result pointed to the two following con-
clusions: that with the introduction of steam-power in Arctic
ships, and the remarkable improvements in victualling them,
navigation in the polar seas had been rendered comparatively
safe, and those maladies warded off from which seamen lad
suffered in ancient times. Further, that with proper organi-
zation and good discipline, double the work could be accom-
plished; whilst the men employed sought Arctic service as
the most popular employment inthe navy. The circumstance
that for some years past the ordinary sailing whaler to Baffin’s
Bay has been entirely superseded by the fortified steam-ship,
and that since this transition no fatal accident has occurred,
but that these vessels annually reach a high northern latitude
in pursuit of their calling and return with ease and safety, is
one the significance of which cannot be over-stated,
On the solution of the fate of Franklin’s expedition in 1861,
Great Britain again withdrew from the field of Arctic re-
search; but it was not so with other European nations. They,
fired by the accounts of these different Arctic explorers, and
of the honours reaped by British seamen and travellers, sought
immediately to enter a field which had so redounded to our
national honour; and Sweden, Germany, Austria, Russia, and
notably America, year after year, made efflurts to extend the
an Arctic Expedition. 303
area of human knowledge towards the North Pole, which,
creditable and honourable as they were to those concerned,
were undertaken with totally inadequate means and resources.
Under Dr. Kane and Dr. Hayes and Captain Hall, the
Americans have attempted, with private expeditions, to emu-
late the achievements of the public ones of this country. The
sufferings, the hardships, insubordination, and small results,
in comparison with the expenditure and expectations, of these
American private expeditions, fully confirm the opinions of
all British Arctic authorities as to the necessity for the officers
and seamen in such expeditions being always under naval
control and discipline; and strengthen us in saying that no
amount of private enterprise, enthusiasm, or funds will justify
the risk to lives or the success of an expedition such as the
Royal Geographical Society contemplates, except under Go-
vernment auspices and Government control. That conceded,
the safety of an expedition is comparatively guaranteed, so
far as life is concerned, and its success for the objects set
forth rendered doubly sure. It is contrary to fact, as has
been alleged, that in public Arctic expeditions life has been
sacrificed ; and it is easy to show that the greater portion of
the suffering and danger to which Arctic explorers have been
subjected is owing to the want of organization and discipline
incidental to private expeditions, and to the expeditions being
entrusted to unprofessional leaders. Moreover, it cannot be
too strongly insisted upon that, with modern improvements
and appliances, navigation in those seas has been made far
more certain than it was in former years. That some risk
may be incurred by individuals in prosecuting scientific re-
search in an Arctic climate is not denied; but it may be
confidently affirmed that no one who participates voluntarily
in such an expedition would hesitate to incur such risks, and
equally that life lost in the serious pursuit of knowledge is, to
say the least, as worthily sacrificed as in other human occu-
pations which involve similar dangers.
304 Arguments for
With these facts before us, we now turn to the subject of
a fresh polar expedition, of a purely scientific character, to
deal with the points set forth in the first paragraph of this
memorandum.
Tt will be seen, on reference to a cireum-polar chart, that
the entire area within the 80th degree of north latitude, except
at two points—Parry’s furthest in 1827, and the American
explorations at Smith Sound—is an entire blank. In addi-
tion to this, there is a great area north of Behring’s Straits,
between long. 150° E. and 130° W., which is likewise un-
known. The aggregate of these two areas around our northern
pole is not less than 2,400,000 square miles.
Since 1865 the council of the Royal Geographical Society
have constantly had their attention turned to the desirability
of extending their researches into this vast unknown region;
and had they been justified in risking private expeditions
upon such an enterprise, they might safely have appealed
with success to their countrymen for funds and volunteers to
undertake them; but they have, for reasons stated, preferred
to urge such an undertaking on the Government, and in the
same year a strong representation was made to the Duke
of Somerset, then First Lord of the Admiralty, on the sub-
ject. At that time there was considerable divergence of .
opinion amongst English and other Arctic authorities as to
the best route by which an expedition should be despatched
for successful exploration within the unknown area around
the North Pole, and Swedish and German expeditions were
then making the attempt by way of Spitzbergen. His Grace
declined to entertain the proposition until the results of those
said expeditions were known.
In consequence of this view, the council of the Royal Geo-
graphical Society carefully watched the results of expeditions
undertaken by foreign countries, in order to be in a position
to recommend one route as undoubtedly the best, before again
pressing the subject upon the attention of the Government.
an Arctic Expedition. 305
Hight years have now passed, and during that time additional
experience has been accumulated by the Germans and Swedes,
which has enabled the council to form an opinion that justi-
fies the renewal of their representation made in 1865. The
distinguished Arctic officers! who are members of the Geo-
graphical Council, and who have carefully considered the evi-
dence accumulated since 1865 in a special committee, are now
unanimously of opinion that the route by Smith Sound is the
one which should be adopted with a view to exploring the
greatest extent of coast-line, and of thus securing the most
valuable scientific results. They have recommended the
Smith Sound route for the following reasons :—
1. That it gives a certainty of exploring a previously un-
known area of considerable extent.
2. That it yields the best prospect of most valuable dis-
coveries in various branches of science.
3. That, from the continuity of the land of Greenland and
the Arctic archipelago southward from the 82nd parallel to
open sea in Baflin’s Bay and Davis’ Strait, it promises rea-
sonable security for a safe retreat for the crews of an exploring
expedition, should their ships be unable to be extricated from
an advanced position, which, with steam-power, is a most
remote possibility.
These opinions have been still further fortified by the
recent report of the crew of the “ Polaris,’ which ship, it
appears, safely navigated up Smith Sound 250 miles beyond
the point reached by Dr. Hayes’s schooner in 1861, and traced
the land on either hand as far as 82° 16’N. She subsequently
returned, and although a portion of her crew were separated
from her, and took to an ice-field in 77° N., they drifted under
the influence of the Polar stream down to a point in Labrador
! Sir George Back, Admiral Collinson, Admiral Ommanney,
Admiral Richards, Sir Leopold MeClintock, Admiral Sherard
Osborn, Mr, Findlay, Mr. Clements Markham.
x
306 Arguments for
(where they were picked up in the spring), a distance of 1,400
miles. This is the fifth occasion on which the polar current
through Smith Sound and Baflin’s Bay has drifted vessels into
the Atlantic; proving that the opening called Smith Sound is
a channel with a constant current flowing southward from the _
unknown area.
The boat’s crew from the “ Polaris” reported open water
at their furthest point to the north, in 82° 16’ N., a milder |
climate than has been found in more southern positions, and
that terrestrial animal life abounded near their winter quarters,
in 81° 38’ N., including musk oxen—a point the importance
of which cannot be overrated.
The Admiralty have the means, by referring to past records
and living authorities, of laying down clearly and economically
all the requirements for such an expedition as is contemplated.
It is therefore unnecessary in this memorandum to enter into
any lengthened detail on the subject. But we may say that
in general terms we only seek that it should consist of two
moderate-sized screw-steamers, one to be stationed at some
distance within the entrance of Smith Sound, the other to
advance, as far as possible, to the northward (preserving
communication with the depot vessel), from which point
sledge parties would start in the early spring, and explore ©
the unknown region in various directions, whilst the scien-
tific staff on board the respective ships, being in near proxi-
mity to the land, would be able to prosecute researches both
on shore and by means of the ice on the sea. The advanced ~
parties would be in such a position as to be able to fall back
upon the consort, at her station near the entrance of Smith
Sound. Thence, in the improbable event of accidents, the
whole expedition could retreat to the Danish settlements in
Greenland, as has been before done.
In conclusion, we may be allowed to add that the council
of the Royal Geographical Society have never appealed to the
Government to undertake enterprises which are of a nature
an Arctic Expedition. 307
to admit of being carried out by private enterprise. In almost
every part of the unknown regions of the globe their emis-
saries have been and are abroad, and at the present time
they have on hand two expensive and difficult explorations
in the interior of Africa. But, for Arctic exploration, the
conditions under which the investigations must be made,
for reasons already explained, are such that they can best
be conducted through the instrumentality of a Government
expedition.
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