Ae? He ry) CAPS 8 rete Se yes tint ae Aets Lo NE) yA te —- ~ aay ee ~~ e.My Aas eG he = ame a1 Yo 2 = < td 4:0 ie Oe -ae Yip is aks > CR Gon eh gue ih, a) Eng A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN’S BAY AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA. CAMS ‘goandsrp won ‘d01 DNOWV ,,OLLOUV,, AHL. WS A WHALING CRUISE TO BAFFIN’S BAY —_——__ AND THE GULF OF BOOTHIA. AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE RESCUE OF THE CREW OF THE “POLARIS.” C BY ALBERT HASTINGS MARKHAM, F. R.G. 8. 006 COMMANDER ROYAL NAVY. WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY Ny, REAR-ADMIRAL SHERARD OSBORN, C.B., F.R.S. SECOND EDITION. HON DON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, AND SEARLE, CROWN BUILDINGS, FLEET STREET. 1875. [All rights reserved.| CHISWICK PRESS ;-—PRINTED BY WHITTINGHAM AND WILKINS, — -TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE. PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. HE present season appears an appro- priate time for presenting to the public ! a second edition of my ‘“ Whaling Cruise to Baffin’s Bay.” Those who have always had the interests of Arctic research at heart must indeed be gladdened at the recent deci- sion of Mr. Disraeli’s Government. The English nation, having had its energies aroused, and having listened to the counsels of its eminent men of science, and to the urgent entreaties of the sur- viving Arctic explorers, has at last deemed it ex- pedient to revive the subject of Polar exploration. The flag of England, the glorious Union Jack, will in a few short months be again unfurled within the Arctic zone, and displayed, it is confidently hoped and anticipated, in a high northern latitude, if not at the North Pole itself. Experience has done much for us, and with the vi Preface to Second Edition. able assistance and advice of such men as Admirals Richards, McClintock, and Osborn, the Arctic Ex- pedition of 1875 (in which I am proud to say I have been one of the officers selected to take part), under the command of that experienced and dis- tinguished officer Captain George 8. Nares, will be dispatched with every regard for the comfort and well-being of its members, and with every, even the minutest, detail considered that is likely to ensure its success and safe return. The successes that have of late years been achieved by the gallant explorers of other nations in the ice-bound regions of the North, have no doubt materially hastened the present determina- tion to equip and send forth an expedition on such a scale as will defy competition or failure. We regard Arctic exploration as work peculiarly our own, the birthright of Englishmen, bequeathed to us by a long list of Arctic heroes, containing the names of such men as Davis, Hudson, Baffin, the Rosses, Parry, Franklin, and Back; and we have to thank those bold and daring foreigners who have recently returned triumphant, after undergoing unheard-of hardships and privations, for having aroused within us a friendly feeling of rivalry, enhanced by their successes, stirring up the ex- piring embers of our ambition, and rekindling the flame of emulation which appeared to be dying out. « Preface to Second Edition. vii The announcement that instructions had been issued for the equipment of an Arctic Exploring Expedition was received in the Navy with un- bounded delight and enthusiasm. There was no want of volunteers from all classes. Numbers were willing and eager for Arctic service, and grievous indeed was the disappointment of those whose applications were perforce rejected. We have only to look back, and not very far, to those who have served amidst the ice floes of the Arctic re- gions, for proofs that such a service is unrivalled, in these piping times of peace, as a school for the training of good and able officers. Our great Nel- son himself received his initiation into that service in which he was destined to immortalize himself, as a midshipman in one of the ships composing a North Polar Expedition. I have only to invite my readers to peruse the Appendix at the end of this volume, the exhaustive Memorandum compiled by the Arctic Committee of the Royal Geographical Society, enumerating the beneficial results that will accrue to science gene- rally by the dispatch of an Arctic Exploring Hxpe- dition, to show the important results to be derived from such an enterprise. The lucrative whaling trade owes its foundation to Arctic voyages of discovery; and if a new field should be discovered wherein the brave fellows who were lately my shipmates would be able to pursue vill Preface to Second Edition. : with advantage their daring and hazardous trade, the benefits arising from the contemplated voyage will be still further increased. The profits of the whale fishery during the last three or four years have been unusually large and the casualties ex- cessively small, results which are principally due to the wonderful advantage gained by the use of steam power. It is true that during the past year two whalers have fallen victims to the unyielding ice, but in neither instance was there loss of life. The “Tay” was crushed by the ice floes in Melville Bay, and the dear old “ Arctic” succumbed to the irresistible pressure of the ice on the scene of her exploits of 1873 off Cape Garry. I have had the pleasure, on more than one occasion, of meeting my late jovial and kind-hearted captain since he returned to this country, after the loss of his ship. A new “ Arctic” has been built for him. She is without exception the finest whaler afloat. May all success attend him in his new.ship, and may he speedily reap the reward of his indomitable pluck and energy. The remains of the poor old “ Arctic” lie, at any rate, in the neighbourhood of good company. Not ten miles from where she was crushed are the remains of H.M.S. “ Fury,” wrecked in 1824; further to the southward the veteran Sir John Ross, in 1831, was compelled to abandon his little Preface to Second Edition. ix craft the “ Victory;” and not sixty miles to the S.W. the ill-fated ships “ Erebus” and “ Terror” were abandoned in 1848, after the death of their leader the gallant and noble-hearted Franklin. In conclusion, I venture to recall the words of one to whom the palm of Arctic discovery has unhesitatingly been accorded, and whose high northern latitude, reached by him nearly fifty years ago, has never been approached by known man. I allude to the late Admiral Sir Edward Parry, who, speaking of the N. W. passage, says: ‘ May it still fall to England’s lot to accomplish this under- taking, and may she ever continue to take the lead in enterprises intended to contribute to the ad- vancement of science, and to promote, with her own, the welfare of mankind at large. Such enter- prises, so disinterested as well as useful in their object, do honour to the country which undertakes them ; even when they fail, they cannot but excite the admiration and respect of every liberal and cultivated mind; and the page of future history will undoubtedly record them as in every way worthy of a powerful, virtuous, and enlightened nation.” I feel sure that these words will find a response in the heart of every true Englishman ; and I trust that my readers, in bidding “God speed” to the Arctic Expedition of 1875, will do so in the belief x Preface to Second Edition. that no efforts will be wanting to make its results contribute to the advancement of science, and do credit to our country. Apert H. MarKHam. 21, Eccleston Square, February, 1875. — Walrus Shooting. DEDICATION. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR oH. BARTLE FRERE, G.C.8.1., K.C.B., D.C.L. President of the Royal Geographical Society. Dear Sir Barrie Frere, =>5\|HEH permission to dedicate this narra- | tive of a whaling cruise to you, as President of our Society, is specially J oratifying to me, because it encourages me to hope that you will treat this effort to further the great cause of Arctic exploration with indul- gence, and that you will overlook the numerous shortcomings of so experienced an author. My intention is to convey, to the utmost of my ability, accurate information respecting the operations of that fleet, commanded by daring and adventurous seamen, which annually navigates the Arctic seas. It is an auspicious circumstance that, in these days, as in the days of old, a distinguished Indian xii Dedication. administrator should be one of the leading advo- cates of Arctic discovery. Many of the names in the Arctic regions, espe- cially those at the head of Baffin’s Bay, including that of the strait which will eventually lead us to the Pole, recall memories of the founders of our Indian Empire. Smith Sound is named after the first governor of the East India Company; Jones and Wolsten- holme Sounds and Cape Dudley Digges are called after the most active promoters of Indian trade ; and Lancaster Sound after that gallant seaman who made the first voyage to India for the old company. Moreover, several of our predecessors in Arctic exploration gave their lives for the service of the Hast India Company. John Davis fell fighting for it m the Sea of Japan, and that glorious old navigator Baffin was killed whilst taking sights on an island in the Per- sian Gulf. Indian and Arctic navigators united very heartily in the olden times, and the connection between India and the far north at the present day is, if pos- sible, even more intimate. For the skilful seamen with whom I was shipmate this summer, and the ryots of Bengal, are engaged in two branches of the same industry, the welfare of the one depending very closely upon that of the other. Dedication. xili The jute manufactory, which gives employment to many thousands of industrious ryots, is depen- dent for its existence on the success of the whale fishery, animal oil being necessary for the prepa- ration of the fibre. So that it is peculiarly appro- priate that a statesman who has devoted his whole life to the welfare of India should now be among the foremost in advancing the cause of Arctic dis- covery. HKarnestly trusting that the efforts of the Council of our Society, under your Presidency, to secure the despatch of an Arctic exploring expedition may bear fruit, if not in 1874, at least in 1875, I remain, with warmest wishes for your success, my dear Sir Bartle, Yours very sincerely, Apert H. Marxnam. H. M. S. “ Sunray,” Lisbon, December, 1873. ay 5 xf df) 5 7 Minne 1t cons ; os SS CES CONTENTS. Page REFACE to Second Edition . : : Vv Dedication . ‘ ; : . Seid oa Introduction by Rear-Admiral Sherard Osborn, C.B., F.R.S. ‘ : SEY, Cuarter 1.—T'He DunpEE WHALERS. Subjects of the work, page 2; Master Beste’s introduction, 3 ; Progress of the whale fishery, 4; The cargo of a whaler, 5; List of Dundee whalers, 6; The “ Arctic” whaler, 8 Seale of :pay, 11; Duties of the crew, 13; Kindness re- ceived in Dundee, 14. Carter II.—** SPANNING ON.” Our departure, 17; Mustering the crew, 18; ‘“ Dulse,” 19 My messmates, 20; Home sickness, 21; “ Store day,” 21; Dirty weather, 22; Blowing a gale, 23; Cape Farewell, 24; Equipping the boats, 25; Directions for whaling, 30; Collisions with the ice, 31; Killing a seal, 32; The crow’s nest, 33; Bottle-nosed whales, 35. xvi Contents. CuHapter IL].—TuHE SoutH-weEst FIsHine. Edge of the pack ice, 36; Sighting the whales, 37; A fruit- less attempt, 38; We strike a whale, 39; Excitement on board, 40; Pursuing the fish, 41; Cheerful anticipations, 42; Disappointment, 43; Superstitions of the crew, 44; A fish captured, 45; We sight icebergs, 45 ; Attempt to take soundings, 45; Effects caused by refraction, 47. Cuarrer LY.—* FLINCHING” AND ‘* MAKING-OFF.” Capture of a whale, 49; Preparations for bringing alongside, 51; The operation of flinching, 53; The whalebone, 54; Good effect of the capture, 55; Capture of a bear, 56; “ Making-off,’ 57; Fulmar petrels, 61; Surrounded by ice, 62. CuHarter V.—NavicaTIon oF Davis’ Strats. Icebergs, 63; Sir Martin Frobisher’s third voyage, 65; Dan- gerous navigation, 67; Heavy snow showers, 69; Remark- able iceberg, 70; The captain’s “lucky penny,” 71; The midnight sun, 71 ; Dangerous ice floes, 73; Huge icebergs, 73; Perils of Arctic navigation, 74; Crossing the Arctic Circle, 77 ; Letters from England, 78. CHartER V1I.—Disco. Disco, 79 ; Visit to the Inspector, 81; An Esquimaux dance, 82; The settlement of Lievely, 83; Native dwelling- places, 85; Esquimaux men, 86; Women, 86; Traditions, 87; An excursion inland, 89; A perilous descent, 91; More mishaps, 92 ; Departure from Lievely, 93. Contents. . Xvil Cuarter VII.—UPrernivik AND MeEtvittr Bay. Omenak, 94; Arrival at Upernivik, 95; The blacksmith, 96 ; Native dogs, 97 ; Ice anchors, 98 ; Departure from Uper- nivik, 99; Icebergs, 100 ; Approach to Melville Bay, 100 ; Difficulties of navigation, 101; Dangers of Melville Bay, 102; Fatalities to whalers, 103; Variations im the seasons, 104; The North Water, 105; Periods of detention, 105; A “strong ale wind,” 107; A “ mollie,” 108 ; Position of the ship, 109; Boring through the ice, 109; On the look-out for a “lead,” 111; Little auks, 112. Cuaprer VIII.—Tsr Norte Water. In the North Water, 113; A good year for discovery, 115 ; Thick clusters of rotges, 116; Whales in August, 117; Foul weather, 118; On the fishing ground, 119; A “ mol- lie” on board, 119; Best route to the North Pole, 120; View of the shore, 121; Attempt to release ourselves, 122 ; Beset in the ice, 123. Cuaprer [X.—Mrppte Ice Fisuine. A capture, 126; Despatch of our prey, 127; Hoisting the carcase on board, 128; A cool bath, 129; Wounding a walrus, 130; ‘ Making-off” the blubber, 131; Chase after narwhals, 132; A valuable prize, 133; Narwhals, 134; Attempt to surprise a seal, 135; A whale heard, 136; Fatiguing chase, 137; A fortunate prize, 138; Voracity of the “ mollies,”’ 139. CHaprer X.—Morre WHALES AT THE MrippteE Icr. The “ Erik” visited by Esquimaux, 140; News of the “Polaris,” 141; A young bear shot, 142; Attempts to get up Lancaster Sound, 143; Another successful day, 144; b xviii Contents. The whaling fleet beset, 145; A disappointment, 146 ; State of the ship, 147; Another “ fall” called, 148; Kill- ing a whale, 149; Monotony of whale fishing, 150. CHarrter XI.—DLANcASTER SouND AND Barrow Strait, Esquimaux seen, 152; Off Navy Board Inlet, 152; Arctic birds, 152; White whales, 154; Another “fish,” 155; A narrow escape, 156; Off Port Leopold, 156; Rough weather, 158; A pleasant change, 158; Sour grapes, 159; I am appointed boat-steerer, 160; Awkward predicament, 161; Towed by a whale, 162; In Barrow Strait, 163; A whale run down, 164; A tale from Frobisher, 164; Dirt of the ship, 165; Dangerous position of the ‘t Narwhal,” 167. CHAPTER XII.—Portr Lerorox. Cape Seppings, 169; Port Leopold, 170; Sir James Ross’s expedition, 170; Kennedy’s expedition, 170 ; McClintock, 170; Records, 171; The graves at Port Leopold, 173; Good sport, 175; Poetry by Sir John Ross, 176; View of Beechey Island, 176; Sir James Ross’s house, 177; State of the provisions, 177; My first fast fish, 179; Towing a dead whale, 180; Condition of ship and boats, 181; Volun- teers for an Arctic expedition, 181. Cuaprter XIII.—Tue ‘* Ponaris” ExPEpition. Meet the “ Ravenscraig,” 183; Crew of the “ Polaris,” 184; Boats’ crews received on board the “ Ravenscraig,” 185 ; Half the crew received in the “Arctic,” 186; Captain Hall, 187; The other officers, 187; Dr. Bessels, 187; Re- markable run of the “ Polaris,” 188; Ice at the farthest northern point, 189; Discoveries, 190 ; Tidal observations, 191; Inhabitants of the far north, 191; Drift of the ice, Contents. xix 193; Winter quarters, 193; Death of Hall, 193; Arctic, animals, 194; Plants and fossils, 195; Separation of the boats, 196 ; Second winter, 197; Resources of Dr. Bessels, 198 ; His opinions, 199. CHarteR XI V.—AGAIN IN BaFrin’s Bay. “Fish” seen, 201; Hazardous position on the ice, 202; Shooting a bear, 203; Rain, 204; Deep-sea soundings, 205; Foegy weather, 205; A beautiful day, 206; And night, 208°; Inactivity, 209. Crirter X V.—Apuriratty INLET. Volunteers for an Arctic expedition, 210; Inaccuracy of charts, 211; The Bartle Frere glaciers, 211 ; Esquimanx, 213; Pond’s Bay natives, 213; A hasty departure, 215: Capturing narwhals, 215; Fishing along the floe, 216; Land about Elwyn Inlet, 217 ; Taking in water, 218; Ad- miralty Inlet, 218; Foggy weather, 219. CuHapterR X VI.—PrincE ReEGEnt’s: INLET. Off Cape Craufurd again, 220; Inaccurate coast line, 220; A day of adventure, 221; Knocked overboard by a whale, 224; We revenve ourselves, 224; Off Port Bowen, 226: Captain’s idea of returning by Hudson’s Bay, 226; Pass Fury Beach, 228 ; Unsuccessful chase, 229. CHaprer X VIL.—Fury Bracu. Land at Fury Beach, 231; Parry’s third voyage, 232; Aban- donment of the “ Fury,” 233; The Rosses at Fury Beach, 233; Lieutenant Robinson and Mr. Kennedy at Fury Beach, 235; Allen Young at Fury Beach, 236; State of boats, 237; Description of the “ Fury’s” stores and gear, 237; Examining a grave, 239; Interesting relics, 239; Sailors’ curious fancies, 240. xx Contents. Cuartrr XVIII.—Care Garry. A large bear, 242; Precarious position, 244; Position of Cape Garry, 245; Soundings, 245; Sword-fish, 246; An unlucky day, 248 ; Succeed in killing a fish, 249 ; Success- ful expedition beyond Cape Garry, 249; Remains of Es- quimaux village, 250; Walk into the interior, 251; Rein- deer, 252; Conveying our game to the boat, 253 ; Return on board, 254. CHarteR XI X.—HomEwarp Bounp. A full ship, 255; Homeward bound, 256; Decision of the crew, 257; A monstrous bear, 258; Another bear, 260; Signs of rough weather, 260; A gale, 261; Brighter pro- spects, 261; Prospects of an open season, 262; Chase after a bear, 264; Grounded icebergs, 265; Communicate with the “ Victor,” 265; A brilliant parhelion, 266. CHAPTER XX.—CoNcLUSION. Abreast of Home Bay, 268; Annoying detentions, 269 ; Dreary prospects, 270; Slow progress, 271; Get into the Hast Water, 272; Prepared to cross the Atlantic, 273 ; Fairly on our way home, 273; Painting the ship, 275 ; Pentland Firth, 276; Off Peterhead, 276; Valedictory, 277 ; Conclusion, 278. APPENDIX A. Approximate value and size of whales captured during the voyage of the “ Arctic” in 1873, 279. Note on the boiling down of the blubber, 280. APPENDIX B. Arctic plants collected by Captain A. H. Markham, R.N., 281. Note by Dr. J. D. Hooker, C.B., President of the Royal Society, 282. Contents. xxi APPENDIX C. List of geological specimens collected by Captain A. H. Markham, R.N., and examined by R. Etheridge, Esq., Museum of Practical Geology, 283. AppENDIx D. List of birds shot, 285. APPENDIX Hi. Memorandum for the Arctic Committee of the Royal Society (June, 1873), on the Scientific Results of an Arctic Expe- dition, 286. Whale (Balena Mysticetus). ioe : raat De } CES On thw Ss LEATEONS. SEPARATE ENGRAVINGS ON Woop.‘ S|HE “ Arctic” among ice 2 Frontispiece. The “ Arctic,’ with boats fast to a fish. To face page é : : Danish settlement of Lievely (Disco) Upernivik Port Leopold The “ Bartle Frere ” glacier Adventure with a whale . Adventure with a bear ENGRAVINGS IN THE TEXT. Scott Cliffs—a favourite fishing-ground Hand and gun harpoons Harpoon gun . “Mik” . Flinching knife, six-foot lance, and swivel harpoon. Seals on the ice. : : : . Iceberg : . Eglinton Inlet—a favourite resort of the whalers in Davis’ Straits . Whale (Balena mysticetus) Blubber spade Pick-haak 2 8.6 a List of Illustrations. Page Twisted harpoons . : é 5 : ; Pmt Clash and elash-hooks . : : : : Et OS Fulmar petrels, or “mollies” . : ‘ ; eOO Iceberg . a : ; ; : ; é noe, Iceberg . catenins : 5 é ‘ e604: Cape Warr endes ; ; F , : é Rawat: Esquimaux dog 5 : ; : 5 . - . 98 Little auks . : : ; ; : : Pipe 3 Bear sleeping . ; : : ; . : . 124 Narwhal and bear . , 5 : ; 3 . 134 Walruses , : : : * B : be ls) Dalrymple Island . : ; : é 2 Meee ei Walrus shooting. : ; i 5 Sera Looms . ; : : ; : i al Oras Long-tailed ae ; , : : : 5 Se, Meeting of “Arctic” and “Ravenscraig” off Cape Craufurd : : 5 Ses : 22 lee “ Ravenscraig ” off Cape York, and boat of “ Polaris” . 186 American discovery ship “ Polaris” . i , . 198 Pond’s Bay . ; , : ; : : sre Esquimaux dogs. F 5 214 Prince Regent’s Tle Hahe “ Arctic” fishing at the Mike of the floe a : : : ; A ae i Iceberg . ; : ; : : ‘ ; . 2380 King ducks. A ; 3 : : ‘ 2 2a Deer’s head. 3 : : 5 4 5 | 2p4e 5 Cape Hay . : ; : ; : : = +, 20915 Bear and white whale . : : : : «2638 Arctic fox . : 4 : : : , aS ee Voliites!’.) Si. : : : 3 : eee: Map. { Illustrating Captain A. H. Markham’s voyage in the “‘ Arctic,” 1873. Compiled by HE. G. Ravenstein ‘ At end. INTRODUCTION. HE following narrative, by Commander | Albert H. Markham, of a whaling voy- age in the Arctic regions in the Dundee steam whaler “ Arctic,’ will, I feel sure, be read with much interest by all who relish an unadorned tale of adventure,’ and awaken sur- prise amongst the large section of the British community who take note of progress in Arctic exploration. The voyage of the “ Arctic,” apart from the boldness and skill with which her dashing captain, William Adams, pursued his mighty and valuable prey through ice, storm, and dangers, proves in a remarkable manner how much the in- troduction of steam power in whaling ships has 1 Captain Markham was appointed to H.M.S. “ Sultan” before he had been three weeks in England, after his return from the Arctic regions; and his journal has been printed, in his absence, almost exactly as it was written from day to day, when the incidents it records were fresh in his mind. XXvi Introduction. reduced the risk formerly incident to navigation in Baffin’s Bay and Barrow Straits. We have the “ Arctic” committing herself yolun- tarily to be beset in Davis’ Straits until there were some fifty miles of heavy pack between her and open water ; and then, when no more whales were to be found, gallantly fighting her way by steam power through the interlaced ice-fields until the clear sea was again reached. We find that middle ice, which for half a century has been the bugbear of the whale fisher, when tackled by a vessel of 500 tons and 70-horse power engines, no longer spoken of as an impenetrable barrier. The whaler under sail thought himself fortunate in traversing it once in every three years, with a vast expenditure of labour, in from a month to sixty days. The “ Arc- tic”? and her sister vessels have now for nine years consecutively got through this middle ice under steam in as many hours. We see the “ Arctic,” in quest of her prey, passing point after point, during a summer cruise, which for fifty years had been the extremes reached by discovery expedi- tions. Steam power has robbed the navigation of © those regions of nearly all its difficulties and much of its risk. The “ Arctic,’ with her keen hunters of the whale, dashes boldly past John Ross’s far- thest in 1818; Sir Edward Parry’s farthest, im Prince Regent’s Inlet, in 1825; Franklin’s winter quarters at Beechey Island are reached ; Sir James Pe ee Introduction. . Xxvii Ross’s farthest, at Leopold Island, in 1848, visited ; and many another bay and headland in those re- mote regions, which have taken seamen in sailing vessels years of toil and hardship to attain, were seen and visited by Commander Markham in a summer’s holiday. It was no exceptional season in which this was done. The “ Arctic,’ under Captain Adams, has often made the same cruise, to the profit of her owners and crew, and returns again in 1874 to repeat the voyage. When, in 1850, during the search for Franklin, T had the good fortune to command the “ Pioneer,” which, with the ‘Intrepid,’ were the two first steam vessels employed in the Arctic seas, I fore- saw and foretold the great revolution which steam was about to effect in diminishing the risk of Arctic navigation. It was impossible for us, shackled as we were to our clumsy sailing con- sorts (H. M. 8. “Resolute” and “ Assistance”), to do much in illustration of my belief; but the revolution has come even quicker than anticipated, and from the shores of Great Britain, as well as from those of the dominion of Canada, strongly fortified steamers dash annually into the frozen seas in search of the seal and the whale, and reap rich and profitable harvests, without any risk of life, and rarely with the loss of a steamer. Steam yachts are now following in their wake, and Spitz- bergen is becoming the summer field of many of XxXvill Introduction. our boldest sportsmen; and a trip to the Polar regions is thought as little of to-day as a hunting excursion to Norway, or a visit to Iceland, was a few years ago. Apart from all these facts, which a perusal of Commander Markham’s narrative will bring vividly home to the reader, there will be found a synopsis of the remarkable voyage made by the United States discovery vessel “ Polaris,’’ under the late Captain Hall, up Smith’s Sound, at the head of Baffin’s Bay. This information he was able to ’ procure from the officers of that ship, who were picked up and brought home from her wreck by our whalers during the past summer. It will be remembered, that when England had completed her part in solving the fate of the Franklin expedition ——a search which culminated in the voyage of the “ Fox,” and in Sir Robert McClure’s great achieve- ment in. passing from the Pacific to the Atlantic, which laid open the entire geography of the regions between those two oceans—Arctic discovery was for a while allowed to rest. But it was not so with our brethren in the United States. They, fired by the achievements of British explorers, and anxious to secure to their countrymen the honour of being equally bold and enduring, sent forth expedition after expedition under Kane, Hayes, and, lastly, Captain Hall, in the “ Polaris,” with a view to penetrate the great Se ee Introduction. XX1x unknown area around the Pole by way of Smith’s Sound. Of these expeditions the most remark- able was the last. In 1871, Captain Hall entered Baffin’s Bay in the month of August in the “ Polaris,” a small, weak-powered steamer, by no means well fitted for the work, with a scratch crew composed of eight Germans, nine Hsquimaux, thirteen Ame- ricans, one Englishman, one Irishman, and one Scotchman. From Cape Shackleton, where the ice is usually met with, in lat. 73° 30’ N., the “ Polaris ” sailed and steamed without interruption to 82° 16’ N., a distance of 526 miles, and was then only stopped by loose ice. The crew of the “ Polaris,” when subsequently witnessing the way in which the ‘‘ Arctic” steamed through similar ice, acknow- ledged that a properly equipped steamer could have passed through the barrier which stopped their little vessel. Those on board the ‘ Polaris” saw the strait extending before them, with much open water and land to the north and west, which they believed lay in latitude 84° N., or within 300 miles of the Pole of our earth. Wintering near their furthest point, they found abundance of animal life, saw much drift-wood of recent date, which must have come there across the Polar Sea from the shores of Siberia; and they found a tide coming from the same direction, and report that the temperature during the winter was considerably milder than XXX - Introduction. — had been experienced by American and English expeditions which had had, on former occasions, to winter in more southern latitudes. After the death of Captain Hall, the men in this expedition only thought of returning home, and were making fair progress in that direction, when by an accident in the autumn of 1872, a number of the crew were swept away from the ship on an ice-field, which eventually carried them down to the shores of Labrador. They were saved by one of our sealers. The remainder of the crew ran the ship on shore at an Hsquimaux settlement near the entrance of Smith’s Sound, abandoned her in the spring of 1873, with the intention of retreating in their boats to the Danish settlements in Greenland, but were picked up on their way by an English whaler and so brought home. We have therefore, from their information, cer- tain proof of the navigability for steamers of Smith’s Sound, of the facility with which a retreat can be effected without loss of life, of considerable re- sources existing there in animal life, of land lying close to the Pole, and, from the tide and driftwood, of a water communication across that great un- known area. In an appendix attached to this volume will be found an elaborate report, to which nearly every scientific body in this country has given its adhe- sion, on the great advantages to science which an Introduction. Xxxl exploration of the Polar area would render; and the information brought home by Commander Markham proves how right the Royal Geogra- phical Society has been in recommending Smith’s Sound as the route on which a Polar expedition should be sent, and shows at the same time how large a measure of success may be anticipated, as well as the comparative immunity from risk of life. Never was a fairer field open to Hnglish seamen and adventurers to reap high renown and to keep our country in the vanguard of geographical dis- covery ; and I cannot believe that that spirit which was awakened under the great Elizabeth can have passed away in the reign of Queen Victoria; but fervently trust, if our Government shrinks from its undoubted duty, that private individuals will secure to us the glory of being the first nation to have traversed the Polar Sea, as .we have been foremost in all that is great and glorious in so many other parts of the earth. SHERARD Osporn, Rear Admiral. Lonpon, December, 1873. WSSVY CHAPTER I. THE DUNDEE WHALERS. > |HE Arctic Regions have always been CA associated in my mind with that mys- 3 AN terious and indescribable longing which is usually connected with all things difficult of attainment, and therefore most desired and sought after. Here perilous and exciting adventures await those daring spirits who may devote their lives to the acquisition of knowledge. Hither our brave whale-fishers have annually ventured for many years in search of that huge and valuable cetacean, the capture of which is at once so hazardous and so profitable. In short, the Arctic Regions teem with every- thing that renders travel exciting, and offer charms B 2 Journal. to the lovers of adventure such as are rarely met with in any other part of the globe. It was with no small amount of pleasure that I~ hastened to avail myself of an opportunity which presented itself of proceeding in a whaler to the Arctic Regions for the purpose of gaining experi- ence in Arctic navigation, of witnessing the methods of handling steam-vessels in the ice, and of collect- ing information respecting the state of the ice in the upper part of Baffin’s Bay ; which might prove useful should an exploring expedition be hereafter despatched from this country to the unknown regions of the North. While engaged on this interesting service I kept a journal, noting each event as it occurred, not trusting to or putting any faith in memory, but jot- ting down any incident the moment I could find an opportunity. I am now anxious to convey to those who are interested in the subject as clear an idea as I am able of the work on board a whaler, and of the perils and vicissitudes of a whale-fisher’s life; and it seems to me that the best way of attaiming this object will be to reproduce my journal as it at pre- sent stands, to which will be added some further particulars respecting the modern whale fishery, and an account of the rescue of the survivors of the ill-fated American exploring ship, “ Polaris.” Al- though Scoresby, half a century ago, gave very full eS ee ee ee Progress of the Whale Fishery. 3 details respecting the whale fishery in the Spitz- bergen seas, there have been many changes since his days, caused by the invention of new appliances and the introduction of steam. The story of the northern fishery, as it is now practised, has not hitherto been told in any detail. In introducing this narrative to my readers, | cannot do better than quote the words of Master George Beste,’ the biographer of ‘ Martin Fro- bisher’s Three Voyages for the Discoverie of find- ing a Passage to Cathaya by the North West,” who, in his dedicatory epistle to Sir Christopher Hatton, apologetically remarks that his ‘‘intente is, more to sette out simply the true and plaine proceeding and handling of the whole matter, than to use circum- stance of mere words, or fyne eloquent phrases wherein if I should once goe about to entangle my- selfe, it would doe nothing else but bewray my owne ignorance, and lack of schole skyll. Therefore, of me there is nothing else to be looked for, but such playne talke and writing as souldiers and marriners doe use in theyr dayly meetings and voyages, and this of necessity must anye man use that will deale with such a matter as thys is, although he were curious to the contrairie.” Before proceeding with my narrative, it may be 1 Master George Beste was the lieutenant of Sir Martin Frobisher’s ship. 4 Progress of the Whale Fishery. interesting to dwell briefly on the progress of the whale fishery, which, in Great Britain alone, has been prosecuted for more than 250 years. Until the commencement of the present century this lucrative trade was entirely confined (I here refer solely to the capture of the mysticetus) to the waters around Spitzbergen, which are commonly called the Greenland fishery. At the present time, with only one exception,’ the vessels engaged in the Davis’ Straits and Baffin’s Bay fisheries are from the port of Dundee, which place, during the last eighty years, with fluctuating success, has car- ried on this important branch of commercial enter- prise. During what may be considered the infancy of the whale fishery, various Acts of Parliament were passed by the Legislature for the encouragement of the trade, and further support was given by the Government, which offered a bounty of as much as thirty shillings per ton on the burden of each ship employed in the fishery. At the early part of this century, and during the time those talented and emi- nently successful whale fishers, the two Scoresbys, were employed in the trade, there were no less than one hundred vessels fitted out and despatched from different ports in England, of which Hull, London, and Whitby were the principal, and more than 1 This year a Norwegian steamer was up Baftin’s Bay. The Cargo of a Whaler. 5 half that number from ports in Scotland, of which Aberdeen, Leith, Dundee, and Peterhead may be mentioned as the chief. In those days a cargo of forty or fifty tons of oil would amply compensate for the expenses of the voyage, and ninety: or one hundred tons would be regarded as a most profit- able and remunerative cargo. At the present time, in consequence of the enormous expenses incidental to steam-ships (all vessels employed in this trade have now the advantages of steam-power), the price of coal, and the enhanced value of all commodities, unless a ship returns with a cargo of at least seventy or eighty tons, her captain meets with any- thing but a warm and hearty reception from his employers. ‘The trade at the present time, at least as far as regards Great Britain, appears to be en- tirely monopolized by Scotland, no port in England contributing a single ship for the prosecution of the whale fishery, and Dundee and Peterhead being the only two ports in Scotland. No less than ten fine and powerful steam whalers leave Dundee annually for the fishery in Davis’ Straits, all commanded by experienced and intel- hgent men. (See next page.) They usually proceed to sea about the beginning of May, and after passing Cape Farewell, a fort- night or three weeks is devoted to what is called the south-west fishing, in the neighbourhood of Frobisher’s Straits to the northward of the coast of List of the Dundee Whaling Fleet. 6 Av OAT Ul FLT UL 4ST | ‘JO[UT Ue OUI Ul F181 UL ISOT "E98T poo 1 “Auvdurog sur Or -m09 ‘[as jlrsr ZL | 8@ | Zot |onbaeg]| ve | g2z “YShq oe A, Splvapy Uyor |) * * «0,01 A -SaA Suyivg pus jeag Avy, ae CORT poytoa ‘Auvdutog Sut 8 -u09 ‘fas Sst | z | o& | 9e~ jonbaeg! oc | 929 “YS avy * aemog ‘ur, | * * prdaaquy “SOA SUITIVG puv [veg Avy, é1 : 1981 | 8 | 6¢ | 91 | ‘drys | o9 | gce nosy preg}: ° eiudyo apr. 09 3 LP: eck cI ae scst] sg | og | ost | ‘diqg | o9 | ver aati eer PJ wepertaye way | + + poqaunyy €I aoy yg O98T 8 og | ost | ‘digg OL | FGF jag aepun * TABI uyor | umopsodurg 8 cost | 8 | 0 | zg1 | ‘dug | og | 9¢F CT ‘| + aux sopreyg | > xneumbsey "LOST pop.t0a aapung “09 “M09 ‘Jas : Sulysiy eTey AA GI /-soa sures | ost | 8 | 9% | cet | “digg | o9 | 09¢ | pue yeag oyoay | + Sor my |* * * fey ‘9981 poytoa -u09 ‘Tas Apeox.at yy L | -Ssoasurreg | ecer| 8 | 0€ | oer jonbaeg} 09 | Fee | “Qaeyyooy “a ): wey ‘wy * SIBIISUIATAT wopuo’y ‘suog 29 sqqig 8 «“ POST} 8 | OF | sot | ‘digg | oz | cIF | Auojuy ‘sussopy | soyjem qie|° °° OLIGL aapunqy ‘apely ‘uog pur uayd £ joussoyamg | 4981} 8 | OF | LST | “diyg | OL | 6&F | AIG 'xeTY ‘sassopy |* smepy mA |" * DPOIV ae oaks ; BEE “Ud pus ‘q]mMq_ | ‘s}wog et Be *ramod da 2) ‘paytaauon zy | way | Jo “ON as ae “Bra asaoyy | SOL | GEETHNG) Aq papusmmoy | ‘eureu s.diyg oi Pa | Pe "C/QT “LAT ONTIVHAA BAGNOQ FHL a0 sSIT Departure and Return of Whaling Fleet. 7 Labrador. Afterwards the whalers proceed up the east side of Davis’ Straits and Baflin’s Bay, to Mel- ville Bay, that dreaded and in many instances fatal locality. If successful in making a passage through this hazardous bay, the ship emerges into the north water, when her course is altered to the westward as much as the state of the ice will admit, until she arrives ou her fishing-ground at the entrance of Lancaster Sound or off Pond’s Inlet. Here the fishing is prosecuted with energy until July, when the whales are sought for up Lancaster Sound as far as Prince Regent Inlet. The whales, whose habits are most migratory, are then followed, dur-. ing the months of August and September, as far south as Home Bay, and even as far as the Gulf of Cumberland, when the approach of winter warns the captain of the danger of remaining too long in those sterile and inhospitable regions of snow and ice. The return of the whaling fleet may be looked for about the beginning of November. Occasion- ally ships may arrive at an earlier date, as in the case of the “ Arctic,’ which in 1871, in consequence of unparalleled success, returned to Dundee during the middle of August, and in 1873 was home by the middle of September. These are, however, rare and exceptional occasions. As a general rule, they seldom return until five or six months after their departure. The ships engaged in the whale fishery are all 8 The * Aretic” Whaler. most substantially built, doubled and fortified by. the application of timber and iron both imside and out. On each side of the stem are angle irons, or plates of iron so placed as to protect the forefoot from injury when coming into contact with heavy floes, and also enabling the ship more readily to cut or break through any ice of a penetrable nature. The whalers are generally ship-rigged, which I consider to be a great mistake,’ a barque being far more handy, and they vary from three to four hundred and fifty tons burden. The “ Arctic”? is a vessel of 439 tons, having a 70-horse power engine. She is the property of that eminent ship- builder, Mr. Stephen, of Dundee. In consequence of the reputation which the com- mander of the “ Arctic” had acquired for dash and enterprise, I selected her as the ship in which I was to behold the grandeur of Arctic scenery, the deep fiords of Greenland, the enormous glaciers stretching for miles into the interior, the majestic icebergs, sailing along in every fantastic shape and form, and all those numerous sights only to be met in the frozen regions of the North. Having arranged terms with her wealthy and 1 As soon as the whalers arrive on their fishing-ground the mizen topsail is invariably unbent and stowed away. ? Since this was written news has been received of the total loss of the ‘‘ Arctie ” in Prince Regent Inlet. The * Arctic” Whaler. 9 prosperous owners, I found myself on the 2nd of May, 1873, installed on board, haying signed articles as second mate to the effect that I engaged myself “to serve on board the good ship ‘ Arctic’ on a voyage from Dundee to Greenland or Davis’ Straits, and seas adjacent, for whale and for other fishing, and back to Dundee ;” and, further, that I agreed to *‘ conduct myself in an orderly, faithful, honest, and sober manner, and to be at all times diligent in my respective duties, and to be obedient to the lawful commands of my said master.” ‘The daily allowance which I should receive of butter, cheese, oatmeal, bread, beef, pork, flour, tea, sugar, lemon- juice, water, and other stores, were previously read to myself and the whole crew at the shipping office. My wages were to be one shilling per month, and I was to receive in addition the sum of one penny for every ton of oil brought home in the ship, and one farthing for every ton of whalebone. The reason that I was appointed to such a respon- sible and lucrative situation was, that as the whalers have no licence to carry passengers, anyone wishing to travel in a whaler is compelled to sign articles as one of the crew. That ceremony completed, he is free to do as he will, and to enjoy himself according to his own fancy and inclination. Our captain is a kind, jovial, good-tempered man; and these qualities, added to his daring en- terprise and great success during the time he has 10 The “ Arctic” Whaler. commanded the ‘ Arctic” at the seal and whale fisheries, render him deservedly popular with all ranks and classes, and enable him to enlist a good crew, with efficient and experienced officers. Our ship’s company are a fine sturdy set of fel- lows, evidently intending work if they get the op- portunity. A fourth part comes from the Shetland Isles, one man is English, one a Norwegian, and the remainder are Scotchmen, principally High- landers. One of the Shetland men is both deaf and dumb, but is most willing, and is a fair sailor. He rejoices in the appellation of “ Dummy.” Ships employed in the whale fishery have a com- plement of men according to the number of boats with which each ship is provided, so that when actually engaged in the capture of the huge monsters of the deep, all boats may be despatched fully manned, leaving two or three hands on board for the purpose of working the ship. Our complement in the “ Arctic,” including the captain and myself, was fifty-five souls. In order that all the men on board may take an interest in and use their utmost exertions for the furtherance of a successful issue to the voyage, each individual, according to his position in the ship, is paid a per-centage upon the amount of cargo brought home, their regular wages being small. This will account for the ease with which a successful whaling master is able to man his ship. The statement on Rating. Master Mate ! Second mate Doctor Speksioneer ! Engineer . , Second engineer blacksmith - Carpenter. Carpenter’s mate Harpooneers Loose harpooneers Cooper ! Ship-keeper Boatswain 2 Skeeman 2 Boat-steerers Line-managers . Cook Steward Cook’s mate Firemen A. -B.’s Ordinary seamen Boys . Myself 1 Scale of Pay. |No. in each jrating. Monthly pay. 25) SO Oo Or _ Se eee Go “TW bo and _— Leo) oP le Oe me WW eH ww WH bd bh CS Co DO OO OO WD WD OD (=) A woe Oil-money per ton, ran) Sere ey Sie) Se ona oes Sooc 2 So > ° =) > o I aes oO co Here NDR NWDONNNNNA|] WOW ONNNNN oO -Oo 8 Dwood sd o o KHWAWADOARDADOOAAGOHUOAOAD 11 Bone-money £ 7 Sere eS) Ee) Sera Soro eye SSO Sy SS) ©) S. 0) DNANDHL KA Nr bo 0) per ton, d. 0) AADOADNH Se) ee) eS) 2) ey (Syierk er er ey ©} fe) oS ns Norr.—The speksioneer is the’ officer under whose direc- tion the whale is cut up. This word is derived from the Dutch “ spek,” meaning blubber. Skeeman is the officer who of the blubber in the tanks, and is adopted from the Dutch “ schie- superintends between decks the “ stowing away’ man,” the captain of the forecastle. 1 Also harpooneers. 2 Also boat-steerers. 12 Pay of the Crew. page 11 comprises the usual scale of pay allotted to officers and men serving on board whalers. In addition to the above wages there is also a bonus paid to each one of the crew composing the boat that first strikes a whale, provided the fish is afterwards captured, and is what is termed a “ pay- able fish.’* The harpooneer in this case receives 10s. if he gets fast with the gun harpoon, 10s. 6d. if with the hand harpoon, and £1 1s. if with both, each member of the boat’s crew receiving 2s. 6d. This is termed “ sticking-money,” or “ fast-boat money.” * It is also usual for the master to receive £1 for every payable fish struck by a bond fide har- pooneer, and £3 for those struck by a loose har- pooneer, whose position may be looked upon as a harpooneer in embryo, or on probation, and who generally holds that office for a couple of years, or until he has proved himself, to the satisfaction of his captain, to be a willing, persevering, and dexterous officer. The duties of the crew of a whaler are allotted according to the abilities and qualifications which 1 By “ payable fish” are meant all those fish whose whale- bone is six feet and over in length. ? No “sticking-money” is awarded for the capture of a fish whose bone is under six feet. The whalebone is regarded as the most valuable part of a fish, its price at the present time being about £500 per ton! A large whale of ten or eleven feet bone will yield a ton of whalebone Duties of the Crew. 13 the men possess as fishermen. Thus the har- pooneers attend to the conning of the ship during their watch on deck; the two mates and the spek- sioneer (who are also harpooneers) are in charge of the watch ; the boat-steerers attend to the ropes on the forecastle; the line-managers to those round the mainmast and also to the cleanliness of the ship between decks; the boatswain, who is also a boat- steerer, is held responsible for all work aloft; the skeeman, who is the head line-man and also a boat- steerer,1s responsible for everything between decks, and it is also his province to superintend the stow- ine away of the blubber. The remainder are the fore-mast hands, who make themselves generally useful where required. So that, to sum up our crew on board the “ Arctic,” we have eight har- pooneers, including the mates and speksioneer, eight boat-steerers, including the skeeman and boatswain, and eight lime-managers. The rest of the crew man the boats. When all boats are away from the ship, there remain on board the captain, doctor, engineer, ship-keeper, cook, and steward. Hach boat (we were supplied with eight) has a crew of six men, five rowers and one to steer. No rudders are fitted to the boats; a steer oar, in consequence of the rapidity with which, by its means, a boat may be swept round, being invariably used. The har- pooneer is in charge of the boat, and pulls the bow oar. It is his duty to strike the fish. The linc- 14 Kindness received in Dundee. manager pulls the stroke oar, and it is his province, with the boat-steerer, to see the lines coiled away clear, and to attend them when running out, after a fish has been struck. Having thus given a short account of the interior economy of a whaler, I will, in the following chap- ters, endeavour to describe the cruise of the good ship “ Arctic,” during her seventh trip to Baffin’s Bay, in search of that great and unwieldy ceta- cean for whose capture so many bold seamen annually penetrate the mysterious regions of the North. During my short stay in Dundee, whilst negotia- ting the terms of my passage, | was most hospi- tably entertained by several of the leading citizens of that prosperous town, amongst the most promi- nent of whom I cannot refrain from mentioning the names of ex-Provost Yeaman,' Mr. McNaughten the Dean of Guild, and Mr. David Bruce, the manager and agent of most of the vessels com- prising the Dundee whaling fleet. From these gentlemen I received the utmost attention, and was treated with the greatest kindness and courtesy, which rendered my stay in their town both agree- able and pleasant. 1 On my return it was with great pleasure I heard that during my absence this gentleman had been elected by a large majority to represent the town of Dundee in Parliament. Kindness received in Dundee. 15 I take this opportunity of expressing my grati- tude to them for their very kind and cordial recep- tion of me, and for the valuable advice and assist- ance which I have subsequently received at their hands during several flying visits to Dundee. Scott Cliffs—a favourite fishing ground. CuHaptTer II. Or aN NENG ONS EDNESDAY, April 50th, was the origi- nal day named for our departure from Dundee; but owing to delay in the arrival of our coals, our sailing was put off until Saturday, the 3rd of May. We were ready, and might easily have proceeded to sea, on Friday, but the old sailors’ superstition, with which our crew was fully imbued, against sail- ing on that day, deferred our departure until half- — past six on Saturday morning, at which time, with steam up and colours flying at each masthead, the * Arctic,’ surrounded by a small crowd, and with her head pointed between the dock-gates, was lying, waiting only for the order to “ go ahead,” to start on her seventh trip to Baffin’s Bay. I had but just time to bid a hasty farewell and jump on board before the necessary orders were issued—the engines went ahead, three cheers were Our Departure. L¢ given by those assembled on the quay, feebly re- sponded to by the sober ones on board. A photo- grapher on the pier-head took a hasty shot as we turned to go out, and we all felt that we had at last started on our cruise. As a general rule, the departure of a whaler is marked by the total incapacity of the crew to per- form any duties whatever connected with the ship, in consequence of the numerous parting glasses of. which they have partaken with their friends and acquaintances, and the bumpers that have been drained to the success of the voyage. The scene on board an outward-bound whaler on the eve of departure has been described to me as one both filthy and disgusting. Jam very glad to be able to state that, at any rate for this voyage, the “ Arctic’s”’ crew are an exception to the general rule, the captain informing me that he had never put to sea before with such a “good and sober crowd.” Those who were suffering from the effects of * over-indulgence had the good sense to keep below, where they were allowed to remain undisturbed until the effects of their carouse had worked off. Steaming down the Tay, we stopped off Broughty Ferry, at which place the captain allowed himself a brief leave-taking with his wife ; and having landed all visitors and friends that had accompanied the ship thus far, the boats were hoisted up and © 18 ~ Mustering the Crew. secured, by half-past eight our pilot was discharged, and, shaping our course to the northward, we steamed along the red sandstone cliffs of Forfar- shire. Passing Arbroath and Montrose, the shore assumed a more rugged and sterile appearance ; the wind, which was adverse, had considerably fresh- ened, and our progress was in consequence neces- sarily slow. In order to avoid a wasteful expendi- ture of fuel, the captain very wisely determined © upon anchoring off Aberdeen ; but being unable to obtain the services of a pilot, and darkness having set in, we continued our course to the northward. At 3 a.m. the following morning we brought up off Peterhead, to await more favourable weather. Shortly after leaving Dundee, the ship’s company was mustered on the quarter-deck by the captain, and those who were able to answer to their names were divided into three watches, under the first and second mates and speksioneer respectively. A few words were addressed to them, and, after giving three cheers for the captain, they were dismissed. Monday, May 5th—We are now fairly away. © We left Peterhead at noon yesterday, the wind having subsided, and with a light 8. E. wind and a beautiful clear moonlit night, passed through the Pentland Firth. This bemg accomplished, by way of supper I was initiated into the mysteries of “‘ whelks,”, and having by the skipper’s advice smothered them well with vinegar, mushroom- © Dulse.” 19 ketchup, and pepper, found them by no means un- palatable. Another favourite edible of our worthy captain is a seaweed called “ dulse,’* which is picked up in large quantities on the beach at Broughty Ferry. This is kept ina bucket of salt water on the after part of the quarter-deck, so as to enable those so disposed to refresh themselves at their pleasure. At noon to-day we lost sight of Cape Wrath, and are all looking forward to a quick run across the Atlantic. We are fortunate in having a fresh N. EH. wind, before which the “ Arctic” is very lively and also very wet. I have quite shaken down to the life on board. Everything is rough but ready, and I am treated by all with the utmost civility and attention. My messmates in the cabin are:—The master, a fine honest, good-hearted specimen of a whaling cap- tain ;” James Bannerman, the mate, a strong, active, daring, and hard-working officer; Tom Webster,’ " “ Dulse,” a corruption of the Gaelic duclliog, from duille (leaf) and wisge (water). The name is applied to several species of rose-spored alge, and especially to Rhodomenia palmaia and Jridea edulis. In Ireland it is called dillesk. Lindley says that the old cry, “‘ Buy dulse and tangle,” may even now be heard in the streets of Edinburgh; and dulse is consumed in considerable quantities throughout the maritime countries of the North of Europe. 2 Since promoted to the command of the “ Ravenseraig.” 3 Everybody on board the “ Arctic” was called by his Christian name, a habit which I soon adopted. 20 My Messmates. second mate (though entered as chief harpoonecr), an old and successful harpooneer, who had made upwards of thirty voyages to Baffin’s Bay; Andrew Graham, our doctor, an enthusiastic admirer of nature, and a medical student at the Hdinburgh University ; John, our engineer, an uncouth, rough and unpolished black diamond; Peter, the second engineer and blacksmith; and Jack, the steward. Our meal hours are breakfast at eight, dinner at twelve, and tea at five. In consequence of the limited accommodation afforded in the cabin, we are compelled to have a relay of each meal. Occa- sionally the skipper, doctor, and myself sit down to a supernumerary meal at about 10 P.m., consisting, now the whelks have all disappeared, of lobsters, or cheese and grog, or something equally unwhole- some and indigestible, but over which the skipper cracks his jokes, spins his endless yarns, and we talk over the events of the day. It was with no little atxiety—a feeling which has now subsided to one of interest and wonder— that I watched the dexterous manner in which some of my messmates would perform the apparently impossible feat of eating eggs with a large knife. Forks are decidedly at a discount, every one going on the principle that fingers were made before those useful articles. If we happen to have a joint on the table with the smallest particle of a bone protrud- ing, this is at once seized by the hand of the carver, Tee So ee ee Home Sickness. OE whilst large junks are cut off and handed to us. On the whole, our living is rough, but certainly substantial. Itis amusing to remark the different degrees of “home sickness” with which my mess- mates are variously affected. Some are in the highest spirits, apparently pleased at the idea of being their own masters and getting away from the thraldom of a jealous and ill-tempered wife; others are in the lowest depths of despondency, and one confidentially informed me, a few hours after our departure from Dundee, whilst talking of his better half, that the “ puir bodie would tak’ on so,” and that by that time “she would have cried a pint of tears.” To-day is what is termed “store day,’ when each of the crew has served out to him his share of provisions, excepting meat, generally to last for two or three months. The men are not put into regular messes, as on board of a man-of-war, but each man receives his own allowance, which is kept either in his sea-chest or bunk. Cooking is allowed to go on all day and all night, and the galley fire is never let out during the whole cruise. The relief watches are always turned up half an hour before their watch com- mences, which time is supposed to be devoted to the fortifying of the inner man. When a ship arrives on her fishing ground, it is not unusual for 22 Dirty Weather. a boat or boats to be sent after whales and to remain away for eighteen or twenty hours, hence the necessity for obliging each man of the watch to refresh himself before coming on deck. Thursday, May 8th.—An unpleasant, showery day, accompanied by a heavy head swell. The wind failing at noon, steam was raised and _ sail taken in. We have already passed two of the Dundee whalers, which we imagine to be the “Camperdown” and “ Narwhal.” It is very pro- bable that we are now the leading ship of the fleet, notwithstanding five having sailed from Dundee before us, as two, the “ Intrepid” and “ Ravens- craig,” have to call in at the Shetland Isles to com- plete their crews. This is the first day that we have been able to enjoy the services of our cook, who is only just recovering from his last day on shore. One of our crew had a slight attack of delirium tremens this afternoon, otherwise they are all well, and confidently look forward to the pros- pect of a quick and prosperous voyage. They are busily employed fitting and preparing the different tackles and purchases used for hoisting in the blubber, and also in fitting Jacob’s ladders (which are small rope ladders with wooden rungs), eleven of which are always kept over the side to enable the men to jump quickly on board from the ice, or when returning in the boats. Saturday, May 10th.—Blowing a fresh easterly Blowing a Gale. 23 gale, before which the ship is going nine and ten knots. A wet, drizzly day, with a lower tempera- ture than we have experienced since leaving Hng- land. We may at any moment expect to fall in with icebergs, and extra men are placed to look out day and night. A collision with one at our present speed would not be very desirable. The captain does not expect to make any ice until we are off Cape Farewell. No signs of the other whalers were visible to-day. We have completely run them out of sight. The ship is decidedly not comfortable in wet weather, as her decks leak like a sieve from the continual straming; and both the main cabin and my own are in a constant state of: drip, which, to say the least, is most annoying. The upper deck also at sea, even in moderate weather, is rendered unpleasant for exercise, in consequence of the ship having open water-ways runuing fore and aft, which appear more useful in admitting the water than in taking it off. These little annoyances will not, however, be of long duration, as we are making good runs, and in a short time shall have crossed the Atlantic and be in the smooth water of Davis’ Straits. Our days are monotonous enough, and I shall not be sorry when we arrive at the 8. W. fishing, where, amongst whales and ice, there will be much to see and learn. At present one day is the very counterpart of another. We have the same meals 24 Cape Farewell. to go through, generally the same description of food to eat, the same jokes by our skipper, and the | same stories to listen to, enlivened occasionally by an Irish song, a recitation from Shakespeare, or a reading from Artemus Ward. Monday, May 12th.—Last night was the most wretched and uncomfortable we have passed since being at sea. Not only was the ship knocking about in an unpleasant manner, but, not having obtained sights for three days, we were all a little anxious regarding her position, especially as we were running along at the rate of eleven knots. At 2 a.m. land was discovered on our starboard bow, a capital land-fall, and at half-past seven I was enabled to take a rough sketch (though at the distance of about thirty miles) of Cape Farewell, the Staten-huk of the Dutch, and of Cape Desola- tion, the Cape Farewell of the Dutch. It was a fine clear morning, enabling us to get a good view of the distant land, which appeared bold, bleak, and rugged, and seemed to consist of a number of sharp, conical-shaped black hills, covered, where the summits were not too peaked, with snow. The strong contrast of the black and white gave the land a most sublime and picturesque appearance. The wind, which had lulled considerably, was blow- ine directly off the land, causing the temperature to fall several degrees. We may consider ourselves very lucky in getting round the cape with such Spanning on. 25 charming weather, as it is a curious fact that ships seldom pass Cape Farewell without some little _touch of dirty weather. The day is really beautiful ; we seem to have suddenly emerged into a totally different climate, cold, but with a bright sun and clear sky. We are now fairly in Davis’ Straits, and, taking advantage of the fine weather, active preparations for the capture of whales have been in progress the whole day. All hands have been as busy as bees, employed in the operation of spanning on,' which literally means attaching the lines to the harpoons, and coiling them away in the boats. The first operation was to get the boats out, which are always stowed in board for the passage across the Atlantic ; and before sunset we had six boats, three hoisted up on each side, ready to go away at a moment’s notice. After the lines are served out—everybody, from the captain downwards, beng employed—it is quite a race as to which boat shall be first equipped, the crew that has been most expeditious giving three cheers on the completion of its work. The manner in which the harpoons are fitted is first with about twelve fathoms for a gun harpoon, and three for a hand harpoon, of the best white untarred hemp rope (24 in.) ‘The end of this is 1 From the Dutch aanspannen, to put the horses to the carriage. 26 | Equipping the Boats. spliced round a thimble in the former, and round the shank of the latter. This rope is called the fore gore or fore ganger.’ It is stronger and more supple than ordinary rope. ‘To the other end of the fore gore is spliced the remaining whale lines, of which there are five in each boat, of 120 fathoms, the united length of which is over 600 fathoms, Gun Harpoon. or a little more than half a mile. These whale lines are made of tarred rope (23 in.) of the very best quality. The boats having been first thoroughly cleaned, the lines are carefully flaked down in the stern sheets, in a compartment specially set apart for that purpose, with the exception of 100 fathoms, which is flaked down in a box in the centre of the boat, called the fore line beck.2 A portion of the line last put into the boat, of a few fathoms in length, is called the stray line. It lies 1 From the Dutch voorganger, he who goes before another. 2 Beck from the Dutch bak, a trough, locker. Equipping the Boats. 27 fore and aft in the boat, and is always ready for running out. The fore gore is coiled down in a small tub or kid, which is kept in the bows of the Harpoon Gun. boat alongside the gun. Aprons or screens made of painted canvas on which the boat steerer stands are kept over the lines to protect them from the wet, The harpoon gun is fixed on a swivel in the bows of the boat, and can easily be traversed round, depressed or elevated by the har- pooneer. ‘The harpoon belonging to the gun is placed on the port side of it, and the hand harpoon on the starboard side, with its handle resting on a mik,' or crutch, ready for immediate use. The harpoons are made of the softest Swedish iron, which is more pliable than English, so that they may readily bend without snapping, when any strain is brought to bear on them. yy VALCO Cs CO) AS R >: De © ty 5 J Say f , | * (hy CHAPTER IV. “FLINCHING” AND “MAKING OFF.” Z\T length, after several near “ shaves,” Gin I am enabled to chronicle the capture of a whale, and to describe the sub- sequent operations connected with the cutting up or “ flinching” of the fish. At four o’clock this morning a whale was seen, and a couple of boats lowered and sent in pursuit, but the chase was apparently abandoned shortly after five, the captain looking into my cabin, and in forcible terms expressing his opinion, that notwith- standing his having ‘‘turned his horse-shoe” yester- day, we were going to have no luck this cruise. He then went to bed. At half-past seven our ears were assailed by that cry, which is such sweet music to all on board a whaler, “ A fall! a fall! ”. accom- panied by the usual commotion ondeck. Hurriedly putting my coat on, being in the act of dressing at the time, I hastened up and found that the spek- E 50 Capture of a Whale. sioneer was again the lucky man, having struck a fine fish, which was rapidly towing him towards the edge of the pack ice. Our boats were soon in the water, and in less than twenty minutes the unfortu- nate fish had six harpoons buried in its body. In the mean time I had retired below to complete my toilet, the scanty manner in which I was attired Whale (Balena Mysticetus). being ill adapted for remaining on deck with the temperature four degrees below the freezing point. On my return to the upper deck, the loose boats were observed alongside their prey in the act of administering with lances the coup de grace, on receiving which the huge monster turned over on its back and expired. The flags in the fast boats were then struck amidst the cheers of the men both in the boats and on board the ship. Theloose boats were at once recalled to the ship, their crews, after the boats had been hoisted up, being busily em- ployed in making the necessary preparations for a. rae nee a ‘0g abn «¢HSM 5, V OL ISVd SLVOd HALIM ,,‘OMLOUV,, THL 66 Sz = Preparations for bringing Alongside. 51 flinching and taking in the blubber. The crews of the fast boats were engaged in hauling in and coil- ing away their lines, which on the death of the whale are always cut at the splice of the fore gore. Itis usually the duty of the crew of the first fast boat to prepare the whale for coming alongside. The preparations consist in cutting a hole through each fin, for the purpose of receiving the fin-tow, and lashing them together across the belly of the fish. This is done in order that they may offer no obstruc- tion in the water whilst the fish is being towed alongside. The tail is then roused up to the bows of the boat, and in this way the fish is brought to the port side of the ship, and there secured in the following manner. ‘The fish is always brought alongside with its tail forward abreast of the fore chains ; it is thensecured by means of a tackle from the fore rigging, which is hooked to a strop round the small end of the tail (where it is united to the back of the fish), and by a stout rope, which is called the “rump rope.” A similar purchase is hooked from the main rigging to a strop rove through a hole cut in the extremity of the under jaw, which is called the “ nose tackle.’ The right fin of the fish (which is next the ship’s side, the whale being on its back) is dragged taut up and secured by a chain or rope to the upper deck, the bulwarks of the vessel on the port side being un- shipped. Between the fore-mast and main-mast is 52 The Operation of Flinching. a stout wire rope, called the “ blubber guy,” having four large single blocks stropped to it, through which are rove the fore and main spek tackles: (five-inch rope). The former is usually worked by the steam winch, and the latter by a hand winch near the main-mast. These tackles are used for hoisting on board the large layers of blubber, some between one and two tons in weight, as they are cut off. From the main-mast head is a heavy purchase called the “ kent’? or “‘ cant”’ tackle, which is used to turn the fish over as it is being flinched. It con- sists of a treble and a double block, having a seven- inch fall. Hverything being in readiness, the crew are turned up, and haying been primed with a glass of grog all round, commence the operation of flinch- ing. Two boats, called ‘ mollie boats,” attend upon those engaged in cutting up, and are kept alongside the fish by a couple of hands in each boat, who are named ‘‘ mollie boys,” the lines having been care- fully covered over with boards to prevent injury. The captain, from the port main rigging, superin- tends the whole process; the mate in the gangway acting under his orders. The remaining seven harpooneers, under the guidance of the speksioneer, are on the whale, and with their blubber spades and knives separate the blubber from the carcase in long ' Kent, derived from the Dutch, signifying to “cant” or “turn.” ‘4 q 4 The Operation of Flinching. 53 strips, which are hoisted in, as before mentioned, by the fore and main spek tackles. Previous to this, however, a strip of blubber, from two to three feet in width, is cut from the neck, just abaft the inside fin. This is called the “ cant.”’ A large hole is then cut in this band of blubber, through which is passed the strop of the cant purchase, and secured there by a wooden toggle or fid being passed through. By means of this purchase, brought to the windlass, the fish is turned over as re- quired. Hach harpooneer has iron spikes, called “‘ spurs,” strapped on to his boots, to avoid the possibility of slipping off the fish. The belly is the first part of the whale that is operated upon. After the blubber from this part has been completely taken off and the right fin removed, the fish is canted on to its side by means of the large tackle, and the blubber from the opposite side is similarly stripped. The whalebone is then detached, special bone gear being used for this purpose, and the lips hoisted in, and so on until all that is valuable has been cut off and taken on board. The tail is then sepa- rated from the carcase, or “‘ kreng,” _ Spade. as it is called, SU sch, Phe Wihakebone which latter being released disappears with a plunge, the noise of which is drowned only by the cheers of the men, the water being coloured with a sanguine huefor some distance. The duties of the boat-steerers during this operation are to cut up the large strips of blubber as they are received on deck into pieces about two feet square, with long knives. These pieces are seized by the line managers, armed with 7? and transported below “ pickies” or “ pick-haaks, through a small hole in the main hatchway. Below Pick-haak. they are received by the “skeeman,” and another man denominated a “king,” by whom they are stowed temporarily between decks, until such time as an opportunity may offer for performing the final operation of “ making-off.”’ The whalebone, on being received on deck, is split up into portions, each containing from nine to sixteen blades, by means of large iron wedges, and these are again divided into pieces of three or four blades, when what is called the gum, which con- nects them together, is removed. ‘There are be- tween three and four hundred of these blades in each side of the head. 1 A Dutch word. Se Sea ; a Cheering Effect of the Capture. 59 The tail of the whale is cut up into blocks, which are used during the process of ‘‘ making off,” form- ing excellent blocks, on which the blubber is chop- ped up into small pieces, thereby preserving the edge of their instruments. It is customary for the boat-steerer of the first fast boat to have the choice of blocks, after which selection each man marks his own by cutting his initials upon it, or otherwise distinguishing it. After the operation of fliching is concluded, the upper deck, as may be imagined, is in a very filthy state, and so slippery that unless great care and caution are exercised whilst walking, a fall is in- evitable. ets ee A a tig ®t. e of 4 s ; wisn