NEALOGY COLLECTION ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01745 1607 GENEALOGY 942.3101 W714M 1881-1882 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/wiltshirearchaeo2018godd THE WILTSHIRE Irrjiipiilngirnl unit Mural liutonj MAGAZINE, PutiltstjrU un&cr ttjc HBurcttou at tije Society FORMED IN THAT COUNTY, A.D. 1853. VOL. XX. DEVIZES : H. F. BULL, 4, Saint John Steeet. 1882. The Editor of tlie Wiltshire Magazine desires that it should be distinctly understood that neither he nor the Committee of the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Society hold themselves in any way answerable for any statements or opinions expressed in the Magazine ; for all of which the Authors of the several papers and communications are alone responsible. CONTENTS OF VOL. XX. No. lviii. 686572 PAGE Account of the Twenty-Seventh Annual Meeting, at Bradford-on-Avon 1 The Ethnology of Wiltshire, as illustrated in the Place-Names : By J. Picton, Esq., F.S.A 16 " The Eminent Ladies of Wiltshire History " : By the Eev. Canon J. E. Jackson, F.S.A 26 Notes on Wiltshire Geology and Palaeontology : By Chaeles Moore, F.G.S 45 Some Notes on Gainsborough and his connection with Bradford : By Frederick Shum, F.S.A 55 Some Account of the Parish of Monkton Farleigh : By Sir Charles Hobhouse, Bart 66 The Rising in the West, A.D. 1655 : By W. W. Ravenhill, Esq 106 No. LIX. Some Early Features of Stockton Church, Wilts : By the Rev. J. Baron, D.D., F.S.A., Rector of Upton Scudamore, Wilts 107 On the Church of St. Peter, Manningford Bruce, Wiltshire : By the Rev. J. Baron, D.D., F.S.A., Rector of Upton Scudamore, Wilts 122 " Sculptured Stone at Codford St. Peter, and Heraldic Stone at War- minster: By the Rev. J. Baron, D.D., F.S.A., Rector of Upton Scudamore, Wilts 138 " Early Heraldry in Boyton Church, Wilts : Recovery of a Missing Link" : By the Rev. J. Baron, D.D., F.S.A., Rector of Upton Scuda- more, Wilts 145 On the Occurrence of some of the Rarer Species of Birds in the Neigh- bourhood of Salisbury ( Continued) : By the Rev. Arthur P. Moeres, Vicar of Britford 154 Some Account of the Parish of Monkton Farleigh ( Continued) : By Sir Charles Hobhouse, Bart 185 IV CONTENTS Or VOL. XX. No. LX. " Letter from the Author of ' Nenia Britannica ' to Archdeacon Coxe, on the Original Design of Stonehenge and the Neighbouring Barrows": Communicated by H. J. F. Swayne, Esq Edingdon Monastery : By the Rev. Canon J. E. Jackson, F.S.A A Stroll through Bradford-on-Avon : By Canon W. H. Jones, M.A., F.S.A., Yicar Extracts from the Records of the Wiltshire Quarter Sessions : Communi- cated by R. W. Merriman, Clerk of the Peace Description of a Barrow recently opened on Overton Hill : By C, Ponting, Esq The Opening of a Barrow on Overton Hill Extracts from the Register in Christian Malford Church Illustrations* Monkton Farleigh Priory, Fragment of the Priory, 73. Monkton Farleigh Priory, Plan of a Portion of the Site, 74. Interior of Stockton Church, Wilts, 107. Ground-plan of St. Peter's Church, Manningford Bruce, Wilts, 123. Ground-plan of St. Edmund's Church, Fritton, Suffolk, 125. Ground-plan of Church of St. Mellon, Rouen, 127. Ground-plan of Kilpeck Church, Herefordshire, 129. South doorway and chancel arch, Manningford Bruce Church, Wilts, 130. Sculptured Stone in Codford St. Peter Church, Wilts, 138. Sculptured Stone, Warminster Athenae- um, Wilts, 140, Edingdon Church, Wilts (south side), 241. Edingdon Church, Wilts (west end), 295. Facsimile of an entry by the Clerk of the Peace, 1579, 340. No. LVIII. DECEMBER, 1881. Vol. XX. THE WILTSHIEE ItrjjMilogiral anil Hataral lisfntq MAGAZINE, pufclij^rtr tmter tfje ©focttan OF THE SOCIETY FORMED IN THAT COUNTY, A.D. 1853. DEVIZES : Printed and Sold foe the Society by H. F. Bull, Saint John Street. NOTICE TO MEMBERS. Members who have not paid their Subscriptions to the Society for the current year, are requested to remit the same forthwith to the Financial Secretary, Mr. William Nott, 15, High Street, Devizes, to whom also all communications as to the supply of Magazines should be addressed, and of whom most of the back Numbers may be had. The Numbers of this Magazine will not be delivered, as issued, to Members who are in arrear of their Annual Subscriptions, and who on being applied to for payment of such arrears, have taken no notice of the application. All other communications to be addressed to the Honorary Secre- taries: the Rev. A. C. Smith, Yatesbury Rectory, Calne; and H. E. Medlicott, Esq., Sandfield, Potterne, Devizes. The Rev. A, 0. Smith will be much obliged to observers of birds in all parts of the county, to forward to him notices of rare occurrences, early arrivals of migrants, or any remarkable facts connected with birds, which may come under their notice. THE WILTSHIRE IrrtiuBlngiral anil Jhtttral listen; MAGAZINE. No. LVIII. DECEMBER, 1881. Vol. XX. Contents* PAGE Account of the Twenty-Seventh Annual Meeting, at Bbad- ford-on-avon 1 The Ethnology of Wiltshire, as illustrated in the Place- Names : By J. Picton, Esq., F.S.A 16 " The Eminent Ladies of Wiltshire History " : By the Rev. Canon J. E. Jackson, F.S.A 26 Notes on Wiltshire Geology and Paleontology : By Charles Moore, F.G.S. 45 Some Notes on Gainsborough and his connection with Brad- ford : By Frederick Shum, F.S.A 55 Some Account of the Parish of Monkton Farleigh : By Sir Charles Hobhouse, Bart 66 The Eising in the West, A.D. 1655 : By W. W. Ravenhill, Esq. 106 ILLUSTRATIONS. Monkton Farleigh Priory, Fragment of the Priory ... 73 Monkton Farleigh Priory, Plan of a Portion of the Site 74 DEVIZES : II. F. Bull, 4, Saint John Street. THE WILTSHIRE MAGAZINE. "multobum manibus geande levatue onus." — Ovid. THE TWENTY- SEVENTH ANNUAL MEETING OF THE BEtltsjjtre Srcljarologtcal & Natural Hfetorg Soctetg, HELD AT BRADFORD-ON-AYON, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, August Wi, \§th, and WtJi, 1881. PBESIDENT of the meeting, Sir Charles Hobhouse, Bart. fg^UHE Annual Meeting1 of the Society was this year held at $S|jf Bradford-on-Avon, an interval of twenty-four years having elapsed since its last visit to that town. The meeting was eminently successful, and the welcome and hospitality shown by the inhabitants of Bradford and its neighbourhood left nothing in that respect to be desired. The proceedings were opened at the Town Hall, at twelve o'clock, by the Secretary, Rev. A. C. Smith, who regretted to say that the President of the Society was not able to be with them as he had intended, owing to circumstances which had not been foreseen when the time for holding the meeting was fixed. The Irish Land Bill — they were aware — was to be considered by the House of Commons on its return from the Upper House, that very afternoon ; and, owing to the very active part which he had taken in the discussion of that measure, it was impossible for Lord Edmond Fitzmaurice to be absent from his place : he was therefore re- luctantly compelled to forego the pleasure of presiding over the Society at Bradford. Mr. Smith read a letter from Lord Edmond 1 In preparing the following account of the Bradford Meeting the Editor desires to acknowledge the assistance he has derived from the columns of the Devizes and Wiltshire Gazette, The Trowbridge Chronicle, and the Wiltshire Times and Trowbridge Advertiser. VOL. XX. — NO. LVJII. B 2 The Twenty -Seventh Annual Meeting. \ explaining* these circumstances, and added that though disappointed |i at the absence of the President of the Society, they had been happy I in finding an excellent substitute as President of the Meeting in I Sir Charles Ilobhouse. No sooner was the dilemma in which the 1 Society found itself explained to Sir Charles, when he at once — though at very short notice indeed — most kindly acceded to their request, and consented to occupy the chair and deliver an address : and consequently they were all very deeply indebted to him. Sir Charles Hobhouse then took the chair, and at once called upon the Secretary to read the Report for the past year. EE PORT, " The Committee of the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Society, in presenting a brief report of last year's pro- ceedings, desires again to congratulate the Members on the continued prosperity of the Society, and on the general interest evinced throughout the county in its work. " The Committee at the same time regrets to add that the past twelvemonth has been a year of heavy loss in old and valued Members of the Society. Of original Members we have to deplore the deaths of Mr. John Noyes, of Chippenham, who was a most constant at- tendant at our annual gatherings, and always took a lively interest in the proceedings; of Mr. John Spencer, of Buckhill, who was also an active supporter, and a contributor to the pages of the Magazine; of Mr. Stephen Moulton, the owner of the beautiful Kingston House, in this town; and very recently, of Mr. George Brown, of Abury, who has from the first shown a warm interest in the work of the Society, and in accordance with a promise to that effect which he made to the Dean of Hereford in 1849, has had a watchful eye for the preservation of the remaining stones in the great circle at Abury.1 Of other old, though not original Members, whose loss within the past twelvemonths we regret, special mention should be made of Mr. Brack stone, of Bath, Mr. Joseph Parry, of Allington, Mr. Charles Phipps, of Chalcot, and the Rev. 1 See Proceedings of the Royal Archaeological Institute of Great Britain, Salis- bury, 1849. Report. 3 Henry Ward, all of whom joined the Society above twenty years ago; and there are other honoured names of some who have more recently been enrolled among our Subscribers. New Members have, however, been elected to supply the place of those we have lost, so that the number on our books is very nearly the same as last year, namely 387. " As regards the financial position of the Society, our balance in hand is slig-htly increased during the last year, from £133 145. 9d> at its commencement to £176 5s. 40 During her married life with the Earl of Hertford, Frances Howard used often to indulge in discourse about her own family, and talk in a rather ostentatious way about her two grandfathers, the Duke of Norfolk and the Duke of Buckingham ; how the one had done this and the other that. Sometimes when she was in this humour, the Earl, her husband, would stop her with something of this kind — " Ah, Frances, Frances, but how long is it since thou didst marry the vintner's son ? " The Earl died, leaving her a large jointure of £5,000 a year. She then married again, and, mounting a step higher in the world, became the wife of the Duke of Richmond and Lenox. He also died before her, when she determined to fly at still higher game. King James I. was then a widower, and she gave out in society, in order that it might reach the King's ears, that she had made up her mind never to eat again at the table of a subject. But this bait did not catch the old King, so that she d 2 36 The Imminent Ladies of Wiltshire History. missed her aim ; but she nevertheless kept her word, and observed her vow to the last. There is a fine portrait of this singularly eminent Duchess of Richmond, late Hertford, late Prannell, at Longleat — a full-length, in black dress with a starched ruff, and a long staff in her hand. Her air is somewhat domineering and imperious, quite corresponding with her biography. Next, in our show, comes a very different personage, a native, I believe, of Fonthill, Lady Eleanor Audley, wife of Sir John Da vies, of Tisbury. She was simply a half-crazy enthusiast, who followed the dangerous business of prophesying. Her rank and connexion made her notorious, and her denunciations against men in power in the days of the Commonwealth created some confusion and brought her into trouble. The title of the first of her two printed books is, "Eleanor Audley's Prophesies. Amend, Amend, Amend. Mene, Tekel, Upharsin." This is in verse and an extraordinary rhapsody. The other book is called " Strange and Wonderful Prophecies by the Lady Eleanor Audley, who is yet alive and lodgeth in Whitehall : which she prophesied 16 years ago, for which she was confined in the Tower and Bedlam : with Notes on the prophecies and how far they are fulfilled concerning the late King's Government, armies and people of England. 1649/'' She suffered a rigorous imprison- ment, and died in 1652. 1 She is followed, after a long interval of one hundred years, by another literary lady, but of a better stamp — the Countess of Hertford, known by three volumes of correspondence with the Countess of Pomfret. *Sho was by birth a Thynne of Longleat, granddaughter of Thomas, first Viscount Weymouth, and wife of Algernon Seymour, Earl of Hertford, who in 1748 became (the seventh) Duke of Somerset. They lived at the Castle at Marl- borough, afterwards the Inn, now the College. She patronized Thomson of the Seasons, and Shenstone, and is mentioned under certain fictitious names in the works of Dr. Watts and Mrs. Rowe. 1 The following letter to this lady, lately discovered, presents a rather ungentle portrait of her, by some aggrieved contemporary : — " 1626. May. Brooke to Lady Eleanor Davies. Reproaches her for abuse of his wife and inno- cent child. Declares she has abandoned all goodness and modesty, is mad, ugly, blinded with pride of birth, &c. Threatens to scratch a mince-pie out of her, and wishes her, as the most horrible of curses, to remain just what she is," — {Domestic Calendar. State Papers, James I.) By tlie Rev. Canon J. E. Jackson, F.S.A. 37 It was through this Countess of Hertford's influence with Queen Caroline, that the Poet Savage was saved from the gallows for having killed a man. Southey, in his book called "The Doctor/' has an interesting chapter upon this amiable lady, who died in 1754. Another literary lady lived about the same time, Miss Jane Collier. She was one of the daughters of the Rev. Arthur Collier, Rector of Langford, near Salisbury, a clergyman of much celebrity in his day, whose life has been written in a separate volume. Miss Jane was a quick-witted observant young lady, and a good Latin and Greek scholar; and the use to which she turned her scholarship and shrewdness was to write a satirical little book called " The Art of ingeniously Tormenting"; containing " (1) Rules for the Husband, &c. ; (2) Rules for the wife, &c. ; and (3) General Rules, for plaguing all your acquaintance/'' In 1777 died a lady of much celebrity in her day, the Duchess of Queensberry. She was, by birth, Lady Catharine Hyde, second daughter of Henry, Earl of Clarendon, and was born at their family place, Purton, near Swindon. Her husband, the Duke of Queens- berry, was at that time owner of, and lived at, Ambresbury. Her beauty and wit are mentioned by some of the poets of the day, especially Gay and Prior, the latter of whom wrote a rather famous ballad about her, beginning " Fair Kitty, beautiful and young." She corresponded with Horace Walpole and Dean Swift, and judging from some of her letters, she appears to have been rather an original. Gay passed much of his time at Ambresbury, before the Duchess of Queensberry was acquainted with Swift ; but the Duchess wishing to know him desired Gay to write from her house an invitation to Swift, which Gay did. To this she added a postscript : — " I would fain have you come to Ambresbury. I can't say you'll be welcome, for I don't know, and perhaps shall not like you ; but if I do not, you shall know my thoughts as soon as I do myself."" Swift did not make his appearance, so Gay writes a more pressing invitation, in which he says : — " I think her so often in the right that you will have great difficulty in persuading me that she is in the wrong. The lady of the house is not given to show civility to those she does not like. She speaks her mind and loves truth. But I say no 38 The Eminent Ladies of Wiltshire History. more, till I know whether her Grace will fill up the rest of the paper." Her Grace did fill it up, and in this way : — " Write I must, particularly now I have an opportunity to indulge my predominant spirit of contradiction. I do in the first place contradict most things Mr. Gay says of me to deter you from coming here ; which if you do, I hereby assure you that unless I like my way better, you shall have yours, and in all disputes you shall convince me, if you can. Pray come, that I may find out something wrong, for I, and I believe most women, have an inconceivable pleasure in finding out any fault, except their own.-" It does not appear that Dean Swift ever ventured to encounter this lively antagonist. There is an engraved portrait of the Duchess of Queensberry in Sir Richard Hoare's Modern Wilts/'' which seems to have been taken when she fully deserved the description with which Prior's ballad begins, "Fair Kitty, beautiful and young." She died in 1787. In the following year, 1788, died another lady, a native of of Devonshire, but by her marriage connected with this town of Bradford. This was the famous Miss Chudleigh, whose career was a very extraordinary one, and the talk of the whole country. I do not exactly reckon her among the Worthies of Wilts, but she was certainly eminent in one sense. She had a place at Court as Maid of Honour to the then Princess of Wales, and when very young she married privately a Mr. Hervey, brother of the Earl of Bristol. From him she separated very soon, and after twenty-five years, still remaining at Court, and Mr. Hervey being still alive, she married the Duke of Kingston, from whom the fine old house in this town takes its name. The Duke dying, left her all his estates for her life; but all his money absolutely for her own. The relatives of the Duke of course did not like this, and contested it. They procured proof of her first marriage with Mr. Hervey, which had never been legally dissolved, and then brought against her an action for bigamy, intending to shew that she could not lawfully be the wife of the Duke, and so to defeat the will. The trial took place before the House of Lords, and for five days was the great sight in London, being attended by enormous crowds in-doors and out. She had been very beautiful, but by this time there was not much of By the Rev. Canon J. E. Jackson, F.S.A. 39 that left. She came dressed in deep mourning, attended by four young ladies in white, as maids of honour. The end of it was that she was found guilty ; but it so happened that, after all, this had no effect upon her fortune, for it was found that the Duke's will had been so carefully worded that they could not disturb it. The magazines of the day record many of her doings, which do not at all appear to have been of a vicious kind, but rather those of a very wealthy lady, who was at the same time very eccentric and very fond of publicity. The village of Box, about the end of the last century, was the home of the Bowdler family. Thomas Bowdler, the father, was the editor of a work now out of print, but one that ought to be re- printed, "The Family Shakespeare," in which the vulgar rubbish stuffed in by the players or even by the author himself, to please " the ears of the groundlings/' is cut out, and the work rendered more capable of beiDg read out aloud in families. Mr. Bowdler had two daughters, Jane and Henrietta Maria, both of a literary turn. One of them wrote "Poems," which reached a sixteenth edition, the other some religious works and biography. About the same time lived a lady of popular reputation, Mrs. Delany, born at Coulston, near Earlstoke. She was of the family of Granville, Lord Lansdown, and married Mr. Delany, an Irish clergyman. She was literary and accomplished, corresponded with Dean Swift, and was an intimate friend of Margaret Cavendish Harley, Duchess of Portland (celebrated by Prior as " my noble, lovely little Peggy ") . Being left in very reduced circumstances, her case was mentioned to King George III. and Queen Charlotte, who not only invited her to reside near them at Windsor, but allowed her a pension of £300 a year. She was skilful in painting, em- broidery, and shell-work, but what she was most remarkable for was an invention called " Paper Mosaic," a mode of imitating the forms and colours of plants and flowers by means of variously-tinted papers. The description of the process is too long to be given now.1 There is a good deal about this lady in the Memoirs of the Granville 1 See Britton's Beauties of Wilts, vol. in., p. 320. 40 Tlie Eminent Ladies of Wiltshire History. Family , published a few years ago ; partieularly her letters, in which she gives an interesting" description of the domestic ways of Windsor Castle in the time of George III. She died in 1788, at a great age and blind. There is a portrait of her in the collection at Hampton Court. I come now to our own times in naming a scientific lady of this neighbourhood, who did good service in — a cause which ladies do not often undertake — the Science of Geology. I mean the late Mjss Etheleed Benet, of Norton Bavent, near Warminster. She studied Geology in its very early days, before it had been taken up and had reached the very important position which it occupies now. She formed a very large and fine collection of the fossil organic remains of that neighbourhood, especially of what is called the Green Sand formation, a complete list of which is printed in Sir R. C. Hoare's M History of the Hundred of Warminster.'''' I believe her collection has been disposed of since her death. I used, when a student at Oxford, to attend the lectures of the well-known Dr. Buckland, who brought that science so prominently into notice, and I recollect very well his speaking most highly of this geological lady, and how her merits met with rather a curious reward. She had sent a set of Wiltshire fossils as a present to the Museum at St. Petersburg. The Emperor of Russia, wishing to acknowledge the gift by an Imperial compliment, supposing from the Anglo-Saxon name of Ethelred that the donor must be a gentleman, caused to be sent to her a very grand diploma, conferring on Miss Ethelred the Honorary Degree of Doctor of Civil Law in the University of St. Petersburg. There are a few other notices of ladies belonging to this county in modern times, who have indulged in the luxury of writing books; but I must quit these peaceful associations and pass to that other mode of obtaining eminence which is open to ladies — the Art of War. What Heroines have we in Wiltshire history ? If under this head we may include a case not precisely of military valour, but of courageous spirit in very horrible and tragic circumstances, it will enable me to mention a noble old lady, who lived some centuries ago indeed, but was born within three miles of Bradford, at Farley By the Bev. Canon J. E. Jackson, F.S.A. 41 Castle, I had occasion to mention before, that during" the Wars of the Roses, the Hungerfords of that place being on the losing* side, forfeited their estates. When King Edward IV. came to the throne he granted Farley Castle to his brother George, Duke of Clarence, of Malmesey butt celebrity. The Duke of Clarence had an only daughter, Margaret Plantagenet, created Countess of Salisbury. She lived to old age, and became the last representative of the White Rose or Yorkist party. When Henry VIII was king, he was led to suspect that the White Rose party was hatching a conspiracy to renew a contest for the Succession to the throne. A charge, which she declared to be totally unfounded, was got up against her, and she was sentenced to be beheaded for treason. Being ordered to lie down and lay her head upon the block, the proud old lady declared that she was no traitor, and would never submit to prostrate herself as one ; and that if the executioner wanted her head, he might fetch it off as he could. It is stated in the history that the man laid hold of her grey hairs and pursued her round the scaffold, till, by dint of chopping and mangling, he succeeded in despatching her. But we come now to a real heroine in actual warfare, Blanche Somerset, Lady Arundell, the gallant defender of Wardour Castle against the Parliament army in 1643. Wardour is in South Wilts, near Fonthill. The old Castle is still to be seen in its battered state, and being surrounded by fine cedar trees is a very picturesque object well worth visiting. Wardour House, where the present Arundell family live, is a modern building about a mile from it. Blanche Somerset was a daughter of the Earl of Worcester, an ancestor of the Duke of Beaufort. She married Thomas, second Lord Arundell of Wardour. In 1643, Lord Arundell had left his castle in order to attend King" Charles I. at Oxford. During his absence a body of thirteen hundred men, under command of two Parliamentary officers, Sir Edward Hungerford and Colonel Strode, came up to the castle with orders to seize it for the Parliament. The garrison consisted only of Blanche, Lady Arundell, and her children, another lady, some maid-servants, and twenty-five men. The enemy, thirteen hundred men and artillery, summoned her to surrender. It is for you, ladies, to imagine yourselves in that very 42 The Eminent Ladies of Wiltshire History. disagreeable situation, and to determine what you would have done. You would have had various similar examples to enable you to come to some conclusion. There was Blechington House, in Oxfordshire, commanded by Colonel Windebank, the governor, attacked by Cromwell. The governor's wife, a young and beautiful bride, per- suaded her husband to give up at once without a blow, which he did : for which afterwards a council of war condemned him to lose his head. On the other hand, there was Corfe Castle, in Dorsetshire, defended by Lady Bankes for several weeks successfully. There was Lathom House, in Lancashire, defended by the Countess op Derby, who sent back by the summoner this intrepid reply, " I'll neither give it up nor desert it. I'll set fire to it first and burn it and myself in it." Then there is for further encouragement to the valiant, that fine old French General, who was besieged in the Castle of Vincennes, close to Paris, and who had lost a leg in the siege. One more chance was offered him, but his answer was, " Je vous rendrai le fort, quand vous me rendrez ma jambe." [I'll give you up the castle when you give me back my leg.] Well, our Wiltshire heroine's reply, when summoned to give up Wardour, was this : — " I have a command from my husband to keep it, and I shall obey his command." She stood out for five days most bravely ; but having so few people, the very maid-servants being obliged to help in loading the guns, a great part of the castle having been blown up by a mine, and another mine being ready to blow up the rest, it was hopeless to continue the struggle, but she still refused to sur- render, unless upon written conditions, that all lives should be spared, and no damage done. The original document so written is still preserved at Wardour. The first condition was observed, but not the second. Lady Arundell was 60 years of age at the time of this event. There is a portrait of her at the Duke of Beaufort's house at Badminton. We have in this county a partial claim to another heroine, who has earned undying memory in the history of England, the lady who, as Miss Jane Lane, risked her life in assisting King Charles II. in his escape from Boscobel, after the battle of Worcester. The king, in disguise as her servant, rode on horseback with Miss Jane By the Rev. Canon J. E. Jackson, F.S.d. 43 sitting' behind him on a pillion, after the style of those days, all the way from Staffordshire to Lyme Regis in Dorsetshire. They had many very narrow escapes. She afterwards married Mr. Edward Nicholas, one of a very old Wilts family, and lived and died at Manningford Braose, beyond Devizes, where there is in that Church a monument with an inscription recording this event. Akin to female bravery is female audacity ; and of this there are two or three cases on record, relating, as might be expected, to persons of a lower class of life than those which have been mentioned. But the spirit is the same ; though the circumstances less dignified. In military history there are several instances of women having contrived to pass themselves as men and serve as soldiers in the army. About one hundred years ago, a young Wiltshire woman, having dressed herself in man's clothes, was taken by a press-gang at Salisbury to serve in the fleet, at the beginning of the American War. She remained in the service till August, 1780, when she was taken up for a street row as one of the principals in a pugilistic combat, and discovered. She had assumed the name of John Davis, alias something else. Now all this is low enough, but had this woman been born under a more fortunate star, Nature had qualified her to be a Joan of Arc. About the same date, one Mary Abraham, alias Mary Sandall, of Baverstock, near Salisbury, actually assumed the dress and equip- ment of a mounted highwayman. She practised the " stand and deliver " business in that neighbourhood once too often, and was tried at the assizes in 1779. What rendered her daring the more remarkable was, that she took up the calling of a highway-woman just after the execution of the notorious Thomas Boulter, of Poulshot, who had been the terror of the county, and whose exploits are not quite forgotten yet. A third instance of female audacity — or rather, this time, of impudence — is that of Anne Simms, of Studley Green, near Bremhill. She was a most noted poacher, and till past the age of a hundred years often used to boast of having sold at gentlemen's kitchen- doors fish taken out of their own ponds. Almost to the last she would walk to and from Bo wood, about three miles from Studley 44 The Eminent Ladies of Wiltshire History, Green. Her coffin and shroud she had kept in her apartment for more than twenty years. To these instances of audacity is to be added one of eccentricity. In 1776 died Julian Pobjoy. She was born at Warminster, or the neighbourhood, and used to boast that she was related to the Beckfords of Fon thill. She was a woman of " strong1 mind," and, in the days of Beau Nash mingled in the fashionable and dissipated society of Bath. In later life she returned to Warminster, and lived — with a little dog — in a hollow tree ! How that was managed, and how a lady who had moved in Bath drawing-rooms contrived to lodge in such a place, she only could tell. One would say it was a case of eminent insanity j but it does not appear to have been so. She was always scrupulously clean and neatly dressed, and never went abroad without her dog under her arm. She got her livelihood as general errand -bearer, and used to walk many miles a day col- lecting herbs for the apothecaries. She was the chief medium of communication between Longleat and Warminster. Glancing back over the list of names that have been mentioned, I can only say that these are really all I have been able to meet with in books about Wiltshire; so that we have some eminent for their piety, some for their valour, and some — for their oddity. You naturally say — Surely there must have been many more? About that there can be no doubt ; but if you would know the reason why we do not hear of them, you shall have it in the words of the author of " Curiosities of Literature/'' Mr. Isaac Disraeli, father of the late Lord Beacon sfield : — " The nation has lost many a noble example of men and women acting a great part on great occasions ; and we may be confident that many a name has not been inscribed on the roll of national glory, only from wanting a few drops of ink. Such domestic annals may yet be viewed in the family records at Appleby Castle, in Westmoreland. Anne, Countess of Pembroke" (a Wiltshire lady for a short time by residence) u was a glorious woman, the descendant of two potent northern families, the Veteriponts and the Cliffords. She lived in a state of regal magnificence and independence, in- habiting five or seven castles ; yet though her magnificent spirit Notes on Wiltshire Geology and P alaontolgy , 45 poured itself out in her extended charities, and though her indepen- dence equalled that of monarchs, yet she herself, in her domestic habits, lived as a hermit in her own castles. Though only acquainted with her native language, she had cultivated her mind in many parts of learning j and as Dr. Donne, in his way, observes, she knew how to converse of every thing \ from predestination down to slea-silk. Her favourite design was to have materials collected for the history of those two potent northern families to whom she was allied ; and at a considerable expense she employed learned persons to make collections for this purpose from the records in the Tower, the Rolls and other depositories of manuscripts. She had three large volumes fairly transcribed. Anecdotes of a great variety of characters, who had exerted themselves on very important occasions, compose these family records, and induce one to wish that the public were in pos- session of such annals of the domestic life of heroes and of sages who have only failed in obtaining an historian." jtotes m Mliltsjmt Ifeolagg raft Ipakoittalogg. By Charles Mogee, F.G.S. HAVE selected the above as a suitable title for my address to you at this meeting, not that I am a Wiltshire geologist, or that my experience of the district is sufficient to make me master of the subject ; but now that there is such a multiplicity of kindred societies, papers should, as far as possible, have a local bearing upon their respective areas. But if anyone may be permitted to break through this reservation it may be allowed to the geologist, as he has a wide field of observation ; and physical conditions but feebly represented in one locality may necessitate references to similar phenomena in which they may be more devoloped in others Jby which it is surrounded. 46 Notes on Wiltshire Geology and Paleontology. I have had more than forty years' experience in my native county of Somerset, and still doubt if another lifetime would exhaust the marvellous history which, when minutely studied, is to be read within its borders ; for, with few exceptions, there are to be found the representatives of almost every geological formation. Occasional rambles across its borders into Wiltshire have, however, enabled me to refer to a few points that may be of interest. Meeting your Society in the town of Bradford -on- Avon, I ought not to forget making a reference to a former townsman, the late Mr. Channing Pearce. He was one who as a geologist was far in advance of his time, and blessed as he was, in addition to acute geological observation, with ample means to forward his tastes, had assembled before his death one of the most interesting geological collections out of London ; and, had he lived, would probably have been the historian of Wiltshire geology and palaeontology. He was my first geological friend, and for some time we corresponded without having had a meeting. When it came it was a curious one. The little town of Ilminster — where I lived — before the advent of railways, was the high road for travellers into the West of England. Without any notice or introduction an individual, throwing open the doors of the room where I was sitting, rushed in, out of breath and bespattered with mud, asking hurriedly, " Are you Charles Moore ? " My first conviction was that he was an escaped lunatic, but the explanation came that he was Channing Pearce, of Bradford, who, whilst the coach-horses were being changed, had found his way to me, but had lost his equilibrium in turning a corner on the way. The great variety found in Somersetshire geology, and many of its peculiar physical characters are chiefly due to the uplift of the Mendip range. There is no doubt that the palaeozoic rocks of which these hills are composed where they disappear, near Frome, pass beneath the secondary beds of Wiltshire, and continuing under London, where their presence has been proved by a boring of 1050 feet, come again to the surface on the other side of the channel ; the carboniferous limestone and the coal measures being found in the Boulonnais, and there is, therefore, every reason to believe that the By Charles Moore, F.G.S. 47 rocks forming the eastern edge of the Somersetshire coal basin in its passage to the north lie under the secondary rocks of this district. The basement limestone beds, but without any superimposed coal, were found in a sinking at Batheaston, and they reach the surface in a small uplift, under Lansdowne, and at Wick, clearly indicating the eastern outline of the basin ; it is therefore quite possible that in the foldings of these beds, the coal measures may be somewhere present under Wiltshire. Within my recollection several ill-advised and abortive attempts to find coal have been made. In two instances shafts were commenced in the Oxford Clay, one of the upper beds of the oolites, and were all the beds between it and the carboniferous series present in their normal thicknesses, it is probable several thousand feet would have to be passed through before the latter could have been reached. The experimental boring put down at Netherfield, near Battle, Sussex, proved that at that spot the Oxford and Kimmeridge Clays were nearly 2000 feet in thickness, though this was probably an exceptional thickness. At Kimmeridge the latter are about 600 feet thick. The palaeozoic rocks under Wiltshire are hidden by a wide-spread development of secondary formations, which, in ascending order, include the following : — Upper Lias Inferior Oolite Fuller's Earth Stonesfield Slate? Great Oolite Bradford Clay Forest Marble Cornbrash Oxford Clay Coral Rag Kimmeridge Clay Portland Oolite Purbeck Beds Lower Green Sand Gault Upper Green Sand Chalk Tertiary Beds Post Pliocene Drifts and Brick Earth. Some of these, especially the Bradford Clay, the Cornbrash, and Forest Marble, are but thin and local, and though useful as divisions, do not exercise the same influence on the general physical characters of the county as the bold escarpments of the chalk, or the level plains of the Oxford and Kimmeridge Clays. This may be said 48 Notes on Wiltshire Geology and Palaeontology. also of the Inferior Oolite and the Upper Lias, which, in this part of the county, are only seen at Limpley Stoke and Freshford. For this reason, although the latter are, when well exposed, crowded with organic remains, some of them of much interest, no reference is needed to them here, and the same may be said of the Fuller's Earth. The Great Oolite above has the first claim to our attention, more especially as its freestone forms one of the staple trades of Bradford and its neighbourhood. Its beds are composed either of minute calcareous egg-like non-organic concretions, or of comminuted shells, reunited by a calcareous paste ; included in which are various forms of contemporary mollusca, occasional teeth of fishes, whose carti- lagenous skeletons have altogether perished, with a mixture of corals, bryozoa, &c Although these remains are repeatedly to be observed in the beds of this district, they are not to be compared in richness with those of the Gloucestershire Cotteswolds, which have yielded more than four hundred species. But the palseontological character of the Great Oolite at Bradford is redeemed by one most interesting organism, the Apioerinus rotundus, or Pear Encrinite. Whilst the Great Oolite was being deposited, or rather at a period of rest after deposition, there lived at Bradford a colony of these interesting creatures. They are chiefly confined to the upper surface of the beds, to which they were attached by a broad or sucker-like base ; from this sprang a stem composed of a number of disc-like plates, on which the pear-shaped body was superimposed, and in the centre of which the mouth of the animal was placed. On its outer edge a series of flexible many -jointed arms was arranged, ever ready to seize and convey to its mouth any unwary creatures that came within their reach. This colony of gracefully-waving organisms would have been an interesting one, when living, for a naturalist to have looked down upon, especially as very few of the family now exist. After living as I have described, a change came and they were all destroyed by an irruption of mud into the sea, the deposit being geologically known as the Bradford Clay. It is very local, and scarcely to be recognized elsewhere, even at Hampton Down, near Bath, although a few scattered encrinital plates are found, the By Charles Moore, F.G.8. clay deposit is wanting, and in its stead succeed the Great Oolite raggy beds, composed almost entirely of corals and sponges, whilst clustering amongst them were many interesting forms of Oolitic Brachiopoda. These are to be met with — though not so abundantly — at Box, and in the quarry openings at Monkton Farleigh and elsewhere. They have yielded to myself a rich harvest, including many forms new to science. This important family has in past geological time yielded in the aggregate many thousand species, whilst in the present seas only about one hundred species are known. Some of them contain in their interiors a wonderfully delicate spire or loop, which served during the life of the animal to support its softer parts. All genera have their special animal forms and the processes differing internally in each genus — though in the same species they are usually alike. A curious variation from this law, however, occurs in the Terebratella BucJcmani. In dissecting this shell, which occurs in the Great Oolite of this district, for its in- ternal structure, I found that the calcareous processes differed materially, apparently altering in form, during its several stages of growth, a fact not hitherto noticed in any other member of this family. Another of this group — the Thecidium — was a few years back only represented by two species, one in the Green Sand, and another in the chalk, whilst only one species was known in our recent seas — recently, however, increased to two or three. It had its largest life development in the secondary deposits of which I am. speaking, and I have been fortunate enough to obtain from our Oolitic beds alone as many as twelve new species. The Forest Marble, which succeeds the Bradford Clay, was for- merly raised at Wormwood and Atford for roofing tiles, but has since been almost superseded by lighter material. For palasonto- logical reasons this seems a pity, for they yielded the enamelled teeth of many fishes whose cartilagenous skeletons have perished, and with them occasionally the teeth of reptilia, including Teleosaurus and Megalosaurus. The Cornbrash is usually a persistent rock-bed in succession, and has its characteristic fossils. It is found atCorsham and nearMalmesbury. The Kelloway Rock, which follows, occurs at the village of that name. VOL. XX. — NO. LVIII. E 50 Notes on Wiltshire Geology and Paleontology. The Oxford Clay, next in order, is continuous from the Dorsetshire coast all the way to Scarborough ; and extended through Wiltshire as a level belt, occasionally five or six miles broad, and having a thick- ness of about 600 feet. It consists chiefly of thinly laminated marls, which are seldom opened up, except in pits for brick -making. Owing to this much is lost to the palaeontologist, as the beds are crowded with organic remains, many of which are of high interest, and include Ichthyosaurus, Pliosatmis, and Steneosaurus, many of large size. But the harvest times as regarded this formation were in the days of my friend Pearce, for then the Great Western Railway was in course of construction, and on either side of the line between Chippenham and Wootton Bassett pits may be seen — now mostly filled with water — from which the laminated marls were extracted be- low a covering of mammal drift gravels. These marls were crowded with Ammonites, the shells of which still possessed their perfect terminations, a feature rarely seen in other formations. Belemnites —•the internal shells of an animal allied to the cuttle fish — abounded, and the cuttle fish also, so perfect that its cuttle bone remains, its original fluid ink is preserved, and on its extended arms are still arrayed the horny hooks and suckers used in capturing its prey. Another unique specimen, from Christian Malford, was a colony of barnacles, that still remained attached to its stalk. Crustaceaa of peculiar form and fish were also plentiful. Had I been a landowner on the Oxford Clay I should long since have been tempted to open some pits for the ancient natural history they would have revealed. In most of the beds containing Ammonites a curious triangular bivalve body is found called Trigonellites. It occurs in the Oxford Clay, but more plentifully in the Kimmeridge beds. They are more often found free, but occasionally in the outer chamber of the Am- monite itself. No organism, probably, has been a greater puzzle to palaeontologists. By some authors they have been supposed to be bivalve shells, and named Aptychus, Munsteria} and Cirripedes — by others the gizzards of the Ammonite, or the operculum of that shell, the last view being that now generally adopted, though I have some reasons for believing that eventually this will not be found correct. By Charles Moore, F.G.S. 51 Between the Oxford and the Kimmeridge Clays there are inter- posed beds of lower and upper calcareous grits, separated by a deposit known as the Coral Hag, typical examples of which are to be found near Farring^don, and at Lyneham, Wootton Bassett, and Steeple Ash ton. The lat ter represents a true coral reef of the secondary period. Some of the corals are in beautiful preservation. At Steeple Ashton good collecting ground may be found in the arable fields, the plough sometimes touching the surface of the reef, and thereby bringing' the corals to light. Calne, which is on this formation, was formerly a celebrated locality for Echini. It is not usual for the long spines of this family to be still found in a fossil state attached to their shells, but this used to be the case at Calne, and indicated that they had a very quiet entombment. Examples in this condition are now more rarely found. Lyneham has been to myself an interesting locality, as I have found there three species of Thecididse, the T. omatum, Moore, and the T. pygmmum, Moore, being hitherto confined to that locality. There are also examples of the minute but exceedingly beautiful shells of Foraminifera, one of which, an Invohdina, is probably a new species. Carpenteria, another of the family, is worth notice. Until lately it was only known as a recent marine organism. I have recently found it in the Green Sand brought up from the Meux well boring, 1000 feet under London, and since then at Lyneham, but its life-history has yet to be traced through intervening deposits to the present time. Like others of this family it obtained its food by means of minute openings in its shell, through which its pseudopodia were projected, which appear to have seized everything within their reach. In some recent specimens minute silicious spines, which must have proved very indigestible morsels, have been found in their chambers. The Kimmeridge Clays which follow are interesting in connection with Wiltshire geology. They extend throughout the county to the hamlet of Kimmeridge, on the Dorsetshire coast, whence they take their name. I have before remarked on their great thickness in the Sussex boring. Some beds are so mineralized and bituminous as to be used by the villagers on the coast for fuel. They contain large quantities of oil, which it has been hoped might eventually be E % 52 Notes on Wiltshire Geology and Palaeontology. extracted, and more than one company has been formed for utilizing- it for gas manufacture and for paraffine. Hitherto one difficulty is insuperable, arising1 from the fetid odour it emits when heated. Ship-loads of it were sent to some London gas works, and to France, the stench soon made itself perceptible in the neighbourhood of the works, and the proprietors were compelled to cease using it and would have been only too glad to have paid return freights to have got rid of the material. Could this difficulty be overcome its commercial value may be seen when it is stated that whilst New- castle coal gives 8,000 feet of gas per ton, with an illuminating power equal to twelve candles, Kimmeridge Shale gives 12,000 cubic feet of gas per ton, with an illuminating power of eighteen candles. At Swindon these clays are used for brick-making. They contain an abundance of organic remains, though of but few species and those usually much crushed and distorted. The shells of the Ammonites still retain all the nacreous colours of the rainbow. The liassic period has usually been called the " age of reptiles/'' but if the Kimmeridge Clays were as extensively worked they would vie with it for this designation. Some of the genera living at the period must have been formidable creatures. Not long since remains of a new genus, named by Professor Owen, Omosaurus armatus were found at Swindon. Great care was exercised in the removal of the septarian-like stone in which they lay and in their after development. It contained the pelvic portion of the animal with limb bones and some of its vertebrse, and so far as it goes it is a grand specimen, the femur alone is 3J feet in length. The lower jaw of another genus, Pliosaurus, was for a long time stowed away undeveloped at the Swindon works, until stumbled upon by Mr. Cunnington. I have found part of a jaw near Melksham, and the genus is found also at Kimmeridge. A tooth of this creature has been found a foot long. Bothriospondylus, Cetiosaurus3 Ichthyosaurus, Plesiosaurus, Teleo- saurus, and Steneosaurus also occur in this formation. The Poitland and Purbeck beds, which overlie the Kimmeridge Clay, are the upper members of the Oolitic series, and present a re- markable contrast with the latter. The physical conditions under which they were deposited must have been very different, for the By Charles' Moore, F.G.S. 53 Kimmeridge Clay is almost entirely argillaceous, whilst the Portland Sands are as distinctly arenaceous. These pass into the limestones of the series, and all are marine. But the Purbeck beds above are either brackish or have been deposited by fresh water. The con- sequence of this has been an almost entire change in organic life, which could only have been brought about by a great lapse of time in their formation. They have but small development in Wiltshire, occurring as outliers at Bourton and Swindon, and again at Chicks- grove and Tisbury. At Portland, and on the coast at Swanage, they have their chief development, the Purbeck beds alone — which at Swindon are but about 10 feet thick — being there estimated at 300 feet. These beds, including those of the Wealden above, with which they are intimately associated, have in their full development a thickness of 2500 feet, and Professor Ramsay suggests that they are the lagoon or delta of an immense river then continuous through a continent as large as Asia, rivalling in size the Ganges or the Mississippi. That it was bounded by dry land, which now seems to have entirely disappeared, is evidenced by the fact that its in- significant representative at Swindon has yielded to me the remains of terrestrial marsupial mammals, reptiles, insects, and vegetation, that were caught up and re-deposited by its waters. On the Dorsetshire coasts the Purbeck beds have yielded not less than ten genera and and twenty-five species of land animals. How interesting it would be if we could go back and stand upon the banks of this mighty river and realize all the physical changes it would indicate ! I need scarcely say that crowded as are the Chalk beds of this country with organic remains, there is still good work to be done with them. Warminster and its neighbourhood has always repaid examination. As I have not worked in these beds I must pass on and shall only refer to conditions immediately preceding or contem- poraneous with the dawn of our own era. At this time, though no doubt there have been some modifications in the outlines of our hills and valleys, their forms were generally what they now present. But their climatic conditions were altogether different; periods of ex- treme cold, with alternating intervals of higher temperature. These are included in the Glacial Period, within which were deposited our 54 Notes on Wiltshire Geology and Paleontology. river gravels, and cave earths, and the brick clays and loams, in all of which are found abundantly the remains of mammalia, now ex- tinct. Within a mile-and-a-half of Bradford I have found in the gravels near the railway Elep7ias primigenim, Ovibos mosc/iatus, now known only within the Arctic circle, Rhinoceros, &c, whilst in the illustrative Blackmore Museum, at Salisbury, Reindeer, Marmot, Lemming, and other Arctic genera may be seen. The works of man indicate his advent at this period, but we still desire a fuller know- ledge of early man himself. This will, without doubt, come. But I have detained you too long, and will conclude by saying that the Oolitic table-lands of this district indicate the very latest periods of intense cold which this county experienced. Fresh water deposits oc- cupied the summits of the hills around. This is only to be accounted for by periodic accumulations of frozen snow in the long winters. As these melted the water passed down through the numerous fissures to be found in the great Oolite, filling them, as is often the case, with an ochreous muddy deposit, carrying with it the bones of animals of a more recent period than those previously referred to, whilst large glaciers were also detached from the sides of the valleys to melt in the lower levels, carrying with them moraine materials derived from the higher grounds. The fissures referred to often contain the bones of animals of this later period. Thus at least £00 feet above our present rivers I have repeatedly found Arvicola or Water Rat. At Monkton Farleigh at one spot I found about half a cart-load of the dismembered bones of Frogs. At Combe Down I found the entire skeleton of two horses, and at Box, 60 feet below the surface, the limb bones and vertebrae of Bison, which, though now extinct, lived on to these later times. 55 By Feedeeick Shum, F.S.A. was not until the year 1829, in the city of Rome, that the first archaeological institute was formed. Since then nearly every country in Europe has followed suit, and in England almost every county has a society, the main object of which is the study of antiquity in connection with local researches. These provincial associations have directly and indirectly accom- plished much good, not only in giving a zest to archaeological pursuits, and in promoting topographical inquiries, but by recording the relics of the past in accurate memoirs and faithful drawings, as well as by affording pecuniary assistance to preserve these relics from material decay, and in some instances offering friendly remon- strances to save them from ruthless destruction. Foremost among these is the Wiltshire Archaeological Society. This county is rich in the possession of antiquarian objects of pre- eminent interest, and is equally celebrated for a succession of distinguished antiquaries, who, since the days of Aubrey, have been connected with it. Many localities in England, formerly unnoticed, and apparently devoid of interest, have become famous, and, in not a few of them, remains of great value have been discovered, and secured for the interest and instruction of future generations. The stimulus thus given may, in some cases, have been abused ; the zealous archaeologist is sometimes wont to invest his own par- ticular neighbourhood with fictitious interest and exaggerated im- portance. Visitors' guides and strangers' handbooks afford abundant evidence of what I mean — to read them is often a trial of great patience ; what little interest there may be in the natural history, geology, or antiquity of the place is so magnified, and the reference to any historical incidents or personages connected with it so far- fetched, as to excite only ridicule and contempt. Fortunately, there 56 Some Notes on Gainsborough and Ms connection with Bradford. is no visitors' guide-book to Bradford-on-Avon, and so long- as Canon J ones remains the vicar it will be unnecessary ; every stranger may find in him, not only a safe and accurate guide, but one always ready to impart information relating to objects of interest in this quaint and picturesque town. It may, however, be objected that in occupying your time and attention with a paper on recollections of Gainsborough in Bradford, I am myself guilty of claiming for this locality an interest in the great modern artist to which it is not entitled. The question may be asked, "What connection is there between Bradford and Gainsborough,a man of mark, who was neither born nor buried here ? " The few notes now submitted will be my answer, and if it can be shown that there resided in Bradford a man whose force of character and remarkable physiognomy attracted the notice and secured the friendship of Gainsborough, and that in this place he executed a work that has ever since been regarded as an example of the highest style of portraiture, and is still considered by the best judges to be Gainsborough's masterpiece— if, moreover, it is found that the singular beauty of this valley brought Gainsborough from time to time to Bradford, to make sketches for some of his most charming landscapes, I think this town may not unfairly claim some connection with the great master — a connection more noteworthy than the circumstance, even if it could be affirmed, that he was either born or buried here. The memoirs of Gainsborough are full of interest, on account of his residence in Bath when that city was in the heyday of its prosperity, and from the fact that he was — apart from his works — a notable character, a musician as well as an artist, possessing many admirable qualities with not a few eccentricities. But it is not my present purpose to give a recital of his life, only to refer you to a few passages in his history. It will be in your recollection that Gainsborough was a native of Sudbury, in Suffolk, a town about the size of Bradford-on-Avon, and somewhat similar in character ; memorable for its antiquity and early ecclesiastical remains, rich in picturesque old buildings, and surrounded by scenery of more than ordinary beauty. Both places By Frederick Shum, F.S.A. 57 were celebrated for the manufacture of woollen cloth, before its in- troduction into other parts of England; Sudbury, however, has ceased to be a manufacturing town, while Bradford maintains, to some extent, its wonted reputation. He was born in 1727, thirty years after Hogarth, who is entitled to rank as the first great English artist ; for — unlike his predecessors and contemporaries — Hogarth ignored and despised the convention- alities of foreign art ; thoroughly original and independent, he was free from all trammells, and, in theory and practice, he persistently resisted a servile imitation of the " Black Masters." In the characters of these two distinguished masters there was little in common, still less in their works. Englishmen were only just be- ginning to know something about art and to appreciate its value. Hogarth and Gainsborough were both pioneers in the struggle for the emancipation of art from the thraldom of an artificial and debased foreign style. Their one aim and endeavour was to depict objects as they really appear, and to portray Nature simply and truthfully. Strange to say, the lapse of one hundred and fifty years has brought us to the opposite extreme ; and just as Foote, in his comedy of " Taste," performed at Drury Lane in 1752, ridiculed the affected mannerism and artificialities of art then prevalent ; so now, at the present time, the play-writers of the day, Burnand and Gilbert, are satirising, with merciless severity, the aestheticism now in fashion, which treats the simplest object in Nature as almost divine and worthy of devout admiration ; introducing into the very dress and conversation of everyday life, a style and jargon that every manly intellect cannot but despise as repugnant alike to common sense and good taste. It is a source of consolation, however, that there is this difference between the past and the present. In the former, all the patrons and professors of art were under the baneful influence; whereas, now that the knowledge and culture of art is so widely ex- tended, the number of those who render themselves and their works grotesque, by caricaturing the simplicity of Nature, is limited to a few morbid and conceited artists, who, hankering after notoriety, are bringing true art into contempt, by apeing simplicity and distorting truth, under the pretence of realism. Of course they have their 58 Some Notes on Gainsborough and Ids connection with Bradford. following — young men about town, assuming the function of art- critics — strong minded ladies, with ample courage to pose in very little or in any, even the most fantastic costume, who " soulfully intense, " converse in words and phrases too " unutterably utter " to describe ; and last, although not the least important, the newly- created professors of the nineteenth century — the art decorators. Early in life Gainsborough manifested a genius for drawing, and of him, as of many other precocious painters, well-known anecdotes are current. Perhaps the most characteristic, and the only one I need repeat, is connected with his school-life, showing, that his love of Nature at an early age was stronger than his reverence for truth. When a boy he loved to sketch from Nature, and one bright morning his anxiety to go sketching tempted him to forge a note from his father, in the customary form, to his school-master, " Please give Tom a holiday." The request was granted, and young Gainsborough, rejoicing in the glorious sunshine, fled to the fields and lanes with his drawing-book, but, on returning, found that his father having required his services at home had sent for him, when the forgery was detected. His father angrily exclaimed, " Tom will one day be hanged," but no sooner had his mother exhibited the clever sketches of her truant son than old Gainsborough, with mollified tone, declared that " Tom would one day be a genius." In his fifteenth year he was sent to London, and we learn from his biographer, in the Gentleman's Magazine, that he received in- structions from Gravelot, the engraver, who procured his admission to the academy in St. Martin's Lane. He afterwards studied under Hayman, and at the end of three years ventured upon a studio for himself, in Hatton Garden, where he painted landscapes and portraits for the dealers. The deplorable state of art in the schools at that period exercised its pernicious influence upon him, and his earliest works showed little genius or skill. Fortunately for his future reputation the London studio was not a success. After twelve months' trial he returned to his native county, and for fifteen years carefully, conscientiously, and devotedly, studied Nature amid the pleasant scenery of Suffolk, under every possible variety of aspect ; realising a moderate income without gaining more than a provincial By Frederick Shum, F.S.A. 50 reputation. Shortly after his return from London, in 1745, at the early age of eighteen, he married a young lady scarcely sixteen. Allan Cunningham, in his pleasant stories of the English painters,, gives a romantic account of their first acquaintance, which Fulcher, in his biography, cruelly mars by a prosaic explanation. After careful inquiries, I believe the more poetical version to be equally accurate. However, the union was a happy one. Miss Margaret Burr, iu addition to her beauty and £200* a year, possessed many estimable qualities, and among them caution, forbearance, and judg- ment : characteristics of inestimable value in after life, for Gains- borough lacked them all. She was of Scottish extraction, and is generally believed to have been the natural daughter of an English prince ; this was admitted by Mrs. Gainsborough, after her husband had attained fame and position. An enthusiastic lover of Nature, a clever musician, warm-hearted and impulsive, full of wit and humour, with intelligence and con- siderable conversational powers, handsome presence, genial manners and unaffected simplicity, he was welcomed in all circles. He became a general favourite with his fellow -townsmen in Ipswich, as well as with the neighbouring gentry. But he was a student and a lover of his art ; conscious of his power and determined to excel, for he had much to learn and not a little of his London art to unlearn. Towards the close of his residence in Ipswich he made the ac- quaintance of an extraordinary character, Ralph Thicknesse, Governor of Landguard Fort, who, on the title-page of his singular production styled himself late Lieutenant-Governor of Landguard Fort, " un- fortunately," father of George Touchet, Baron Audley. During the winter season Thicknesse resided in Bath at St. Catherine's Hermitage, in a picturesque dell, facetiously named by his friend, Lord Thurlow, Gully Hall. Here in his garden, where Saxon and Roman remains have been found, he erected a monument in memory of Chatterton, and beneath it interred the remains of his own daughter ; hard by, with strange incongruity, he placed the body of his old travelling carriage, in which he had traversed the continent of Europe. There it remained many years, a curious memento of his vagaries and eccentricity. He was a man of great notoriety (50 Some Notes on Gainsborough and Ids connection with Bradford. in his day ; descended from an ancient family, and with high con- nections, he had a wide circle of acquaintances in every part of England, to a great number of whom he introduced his friend and protege, Gainsborough. With much of the Napier eccentricity he lacked the Napier ability; in his slandering propensities he resembled Walter Savage Landor in his dotage, but compared with him in intellect he was an ignorant coxcomb. He was a great traveller but a scurrilous author; cacoethes scribendi his besetting weak- ness. He toadied to the rich and patronised the poor. He was insufferably egotistical, vain, ambitious, poor and proud, affected, fussy, and quarrelsome ; with a commanding presence and good natural abilities, he was cursed with so evil a temper, that, bereft of friends, beloved by none, and detested by not a few, he died a miserable and disappointed man. This was the singular character under whose early auspices Gainsborough became celebrated. Enough has been said of Gains- borough's history to show, not only that he had appreciative friends, but that he had confidence in his own powers ; having thrown aside the conventional ideas and practice of his contemporaries, he painted in a style peculiarly his own. So far his life had not been un- successful, and although he had not realised high prices for his works, he had secured a fair income and made great proficiency in his drawing, color, and execution. Thicknesse, however, gave him good advice when he recommended him to migrate to the " Queen of the West/'' and Gainsborough's acquiescence was wise and politic. If he had declined, and contented himself with the position of an artist in a quiet country town, the name of Gainsborough would never have ranked as one of the great modern painters. His landscapes would undoubtedly have secured for him the reputation of a true English artist, but he would never have produced those marvellous portraits that worthily compare with the greatest works of Sir Joshua Reynolds. In 1760 Gainsborough arrived in Bath, where he spent the next fourteen years of his life. During this period the celebrity of Bath reached its acme. Rank and fashion, wealth and royalty assembled there as in no other place, except the metropolis, and since those days no other fashionable resort By Frederick Shum, F.S.A. 61 has ever acquired such a monoply of distinguished and aristocratic visitors. Through the introduction of Thicknesse, Gainsborough soon ob- tained commissions,, and the comparatively unknown Suffolk painter at once became famous ; his studio was the centre of attraction ; there, might be seen dukes, generals, philosophers, and statesmen* He had more than he could do, and rapidly advanced his prices from five guineas to a hundred guineas. In an account of Gainsborough, recently published in the series of " Small Books on the Great Artists," written by Mr. Brock- Arnold in an appreciative spirit, with great judgment and discrimi- nation, it is stated that on his arrival in Bath he rented a house in the Circus. This, however, is incorrect ; his first residence was in the centre of the city, afterwards he lived in Ainslie's Belvedere, where he had a studio commanding a beautiful view of Hampton Bocks, and subsequently he occupied a house in the Circus, not many doors from the Earl of Chatham ; here his rooms were crowded with unsold landscapes, which the fashionable visitors at Bath could not appreciate. Numerous are the anecdotes recorded of Gains- borough in Bath — of the rebuffs he administered to the vain and wealthy people who came to him for their portraits, and desired to be decked out in all their finery ; of his quarrels with the irascible Governor of Landguard Fort, of his friendship and association with the actors and musical celebrities, of his passion for music, and of his versatile genius in playing all sorts of musical instruments. Bath at that time was noted for its love of music, and its patronage of the stage. The first musicians of the day were constantly there, and as Gainsborough loved music no less'passionately than paintings he invited them to his house, painted their portraits, and treated them with the most genial hospitality. Among them was Fischer, the hautboy player, who married his daughter, and whose portrait is in Hampton Court ; Mrs. Siddons, whose portrait is now in the National Gallery ; Abel, Miss Linley, Quin, and Garrick, who again and again refused to sit until one morning Mr. Wiltshire beguiled him into his house at Bath, and there held guard over him while Gainsborough commenced a sketch for that noble picture, 62 Some Notes on Gainsborough and his connection with Bradford. which is generally admitted to be superior to Reynolds' far-famed portrait of the inimitable mimic and actor. Of all the portraits Gainsborough painted, whether in Bath or elsewhere, there is not one of greater power and excellence than that of Orpen, the parish clerk of Bradford ; and lest I should detain you too long, I must quit the gay scenes at Bath. Notwithstanding his popularity in the artistic circles of Bath, and the extraordinary number of commissions for portraits pressed on him by wealthy visitors, landscape painting was his delight ; his passion for Nature revived, and the varied scenery of hill and dale around Bath and Bradford became as familiar to him as the Suffolk woods. I just now mentioned that his house in Ainslie's Belvedere com- I manded a view of Hampton Rocks, which are situated at the entrance of the beautiful valley down which the Avon winds its I sluggish course from Bradford, flowing through the charming 1 meadows lying at the base of the Hampton Cliff. This valley had a rare fascination for Gainsborough. On the heights above he was I often seen sketching, and one of the crags yet bears the name of I et Gainsborough's Pallett." From the opposite side of the valley he I could see the mansion of his friend, Mr. Wiltshire, the great London I carrier to the West of England, whose name will always be remem- bered in connection with Gainsborough, who spent many pleasant days at his beautiful country seat, and often walked from thence I with his drawing materials to Bradford, or rode the grey pony Mr. Wiltshire had given him, through the interesting village of Monkton Farleigh to Bradford. Wiltshire's appreciation of his painting, and regard for the man, would not allow him to receive payment for the carriage of his pictures to and from the London exhibitions. Gainsborough, handsomely reciprocated his friend's kindness by presenting him with examples of his finest works, now of inestimable value. The } one best known, from its being the property of the nation, and placed in the National Gallery, is the portrait of " The Parish Clerk." I This picture was the result of Gainsborough's pilgrimages to the \ picturesque and flourishing little town of Bradford, whither he wandered after leaving his sketching ground on Hampton Down, By Frederick S/ium, F.S.A. 63 or when lie rode over from Mr. Wiltshire's seat at Shockerwick. Weary of the excitement of Bath Society, and impatient of the jealous and exacting patronage of Thicknesse, he was only too glad of an excuse to come to Bradford ; whether it was to have a chat and another sitting from Orpen, or to sketch the romantic dells at Belcombe and Farleigh, mattered little. In Orpen, he had a capital study ; intelligence, reverence, and simplicity were there, and nobly has he depicted these qualities. It was a labour of love, he reckoned not on the prestige or the pecuniary reward that he derived when painting the portraits of statesmen, or country squires, at Bath. Upon this old man's head he bestowed as much labour and care as on the Lord Chancellor or Royalty itself. It is exquisitely and carefully painted, the color perfect, the light and shade equal to Rembrandt, while the force and character in the features and ex- pression is not excelled in any of Velasquez's charming portraits. No one can look upon this admirable likeness without the conviction that the subject was a man of singular ability ; but he was more than this, he was a man of generous instincts, for although by no means rich, he bequeathed his house in perpetuity to his successors in office. The family of Orpen was humble but respectable, and in an old map, now extant, is represented a row of cottages that stood near the centre of the town, called after their name, showing that they were here in the sixteenth century ; they were also owners of some land in the neighbourhood of Farley Castle. Within a stone's throw of that interesting and unique relic of Saxon architecture, of which Bradford is not a little proud, may be seen this house in which Orpen lived, and where Gainsborough painted his portrait ; although small, it has some architectural pretension. It was built by Orpen, but has been somewhat increased in size by the present Vicar ; a singular feature marks the front wall of the cottage; two nearly square lights of glass, about 12 inches by 13, are to be seen on either side of the centre window in the first story. What can be the meaning of them ? Canon Jones not infrequently puzzles his visitors with this riddle, but they invariably " give it up/' and wait for his solution. It will be remembered that in the early part of the present century, when England's 64 Some Notes on Gainsborough and his connection with Bradford. necessities had well-nigh exhausted the ingenuity of the Chancellor of the Exchequer, William Pitt, a grievous tax was laid on our windows. Now, as there were all sorts and sizes of window-lights, disputes arose as to what a window really was ; finally it was decided that all lights at a certain distance from each other were liable to be taxed as separate windows. Orpen was equal to the occasion, and by placing these two small loop-hole lights on either side of the centre window, thus reducing the distance, he was rated for one window instead of three ; in reality having five lights and paying for one. The cottage overlooks the parish churchyard, and immedi- ately in front of it, underneath a plain stone slab, lie the remains of him whose memory has been long cherished for his intelligence, generosity,and moral worth,and who will still be remembered formany generations yet to come, through the genius and skill of his friend, who has left to posterity so true a likeness of his manly features. In the National Gallery this picture is named " The Parish Clerk." Now, as there are parish clerks and parish clerks, I must take ex- ception to this slight on Orpen, which ignores his identity, and I would suggest a friendly remonstrance be tendered to the trustees from this Association, with a request that Gainsbor oughts portrait may be catalogued " Orpen, the Parish Clerk." For one moment I must call your attention to another picture, presented by Gainsborough to Mr. Wiltshire, and said to have been painted from a sketch made in this neighbourhood. Of this painting Gainsborough said, that " it pleased him more than any he had ever executed." It is called " The Return from Harvest," and represents a picturesque-looking waggon, with its driver, returning home at the close of the day. Two of the figures are portraits of his daughters, and one of the horses is a drawing of the grey pony given to the artist by Mr. Wiltshire. This picture is a charming bit of Nature, beautiful in color, and one of Gainsborough's most characteristic works. At the death of Mr. Wiltshire's grandson, about twenty years ago, it was purchased for Her Majesty at £3500. The circumstances, however, that led to the purchase are not generally known. The Queen, when visiting Bath as Princess Victoria, on the occasion of her opening the Royal Victoria Park in By Frederick S7ium, F.8.A. 65 that city, was taken by her mother, the Duchess of Kent, to view the pictures at Shockerwick. Here it was Her Majesty first saw the picture now in her possession. In recording this fact I am only paying a just tribute to the Queen's good taste and discrimination, in selecting for purchase a work of so much excellence, seen by her when only a girl many years before. Necessarily imperfect and fragmentary as these notes have proved, for the reasons, first, that the information sought has been difficult to obtain ; secondly, because I considered it undesirable to reproduce — however interesting — incidents concerning Gainsborough, which it is presumed you are familiar with, especially, those details of his later life — of his successful career at Schomberg House, Pall Mall, whither he removed from Bath in 1774, of the singular and melan- choly premonition of his decease, and of that last touching scene, when, anxious to die at peace with all, he sent for Reynolds, with whom he had quarrelled, and who generously came, and beading over him listened to his last whispers, " We are all going to Heaven and Vandyck is one of the party " ; nevertheless, it has also been my aim to gather a few local remembrances of a notable man in humble life, the subject of one of our finest national portraits, as well as to claim for the painter the position of an English artist, second to none of his predecessors or contemporaries, either in portrait or landscape painting, while in the practice of both he was unequalled. In support of this view let me cite two or three sen- tences from the writings of the greatest art-critic of ancient or modern times : — u Gainsborough's power of colour is capable of taking rank beside that of Rubens, he is the purest colourist, Sir J oshua Reynolds not excepted, of the whole English school ; with him, in fact, the art of painting did in great part die, and exists not now in Europe. ... I hesitate not to say that in the management and quality of single and particular tints, in the purely technical part of painting, Turner is a child to Gainsborough. Gainsborough's hand is light as the sweep of a cloud — as swift as the flash of a sunbeam. Gainsborough's masses are as broad as the first division in heaven of light from darkness. Gainsborough's forms are grand, simple, and ideal. In a word Gainsborough is an immortal painter." vol. xx. — NO. lviii. j? 66 By Sie Chaeles Hobhouse, Bart. CHAPTER I. Situation — Climate — Productions. f^HE parish is situated on the extreme north-western bend of an isolated chain of hills. At the one end of this is the town of Bradford and at the other that of Chippenham. The ground on which the village stands is from 6 to 700 feet in heigh t, the tower on the down being, at its summit, 733 feet above the level ofl the sea. The village is six miles from Bath, four from Bradford, seven! from Melksham, ten from Chippenham, and two-and-a-half from! Box; and, standing on Farleigh Down, the landmarks are as follows : — east, the Church tower at Derry Hill, Lord Lansdowne'sl tower and the White Horse above Calne, Roundway Down, Devizes,! and Etchilhampton Hill ; south, Salisbury Plain, Stourton Tower J and the Mendip range by Cranmore and Mells ; west, Beckf ord'sj Tower, on Lansdowne, and the hills that descend to the Bristol Channel by Bristol, Clevedon, and Weston- Super-Mare ; north, the high ground towards Malmesbury. The River Avon and the Box Brook, or Weaver, encircle the hills, at one end of which our village stands, and probably in all Wiltshire: there is no place where the combination of scenery — hill and valley, j wood and stream, distance and home views — is more varied audi beautiful. " Perhaps the most striking feature of Monkton Farleigh," says Canon Jackson, "is its geological situation — standing on the down and looking round, the view on all sides is not only beautiful but Some Account of the Parish of Monhton Farleigh. 67 curious. From the south [east?] the whole country slopes gradually upwards from the level of the Avon at Melksham, forming one side of the basin, along the bottom of which that river flows through North Wilts. Here the rising ground stops, checked by two deep valleys, one on the north, the other on the west. Beyond are other deep valleys, all radiating from one centre — the city of Bath. " When the steep sides of the different hills, through which these valleys have been excavated, are examined, their construction and the succession of their strata are found to be the same in all. Just as if you were to scoop out several grooves in a sage cheese, each would shew the same alternations of green and white and the same rind at the top. " From this conformity there is but one conclusion to be drawn, namely that time was when these valleys did not exist ; when the hills, now detached and known by the several names of Farleigh Down, Bathampton Down, Lansdown, Little Solsbury, and Banner- down,1 presented one continuous surface. By what process, or at what period of the earth's history, these enormous cavities were made upon its face, the earth's own record can best explain, for these were changes that took place before quills and fingers were invented. Some vast subterranean furnace, still continuing to supply Bath with its hot springs, probably raised and cracked the whole of this district, and the waters of the sea, under which it lay,2 widened the cracks and formed the valleys. " The result, so far as Monk ton Farleigh is concerned, is that it stands upon the extreme edge of the upper side of the basin of the Avon, on a ridge of high ground, from one side of which springs flow into the Box stream, from the other backwards towards the Avon at Melksham. That ridge or ledge of the basin may be traced for many miles, and between the feeders of the Box stream and the 1 The scene of the battle of Badon Hill, where Alfred defeated the Saxons. Camden, v. i., p. 62. 2 I have found many fine specimens of fossilized sea-shells and other fossils of a flinty substance and circular form, such as Britton (p. 61, Wiltshire) describes as found at Swindon and Grittleton, and Mr. Moore, of Bath, has, I understand, made a rich geological harvest out of our soil. F % 68 Some Account of the Parish of Monklon Farleigh. Avon a person may ride from Littleton Drew by Yatton Keynell, Biddeston, Hartham, Rudlow, Chappel-Plaster, Kingsdown, Far- leigh-Beeches, Conk well, and Winsley, to Bradford, without crossing a brook." , The rainfall in our parish is considerable, and this and the short distance — not twenty miles as the crow flies — from the sea give a softness to the atmosphere and, occasionally, some days together of thick mist and piercing wind, but there is ever a fresh breeze even in the hottest weather, and usually the climate is bracing and not too cold. We have sand and clay in the parish, but speaking generally the soil is, I believe, what is known as the stone-brash, and the quarries of freestone are a peculiar feature in the substrata in the upper or west end of the parish. The earliest mention of these quarries that I know of occurs in the year 1439, when the following entry in regard to them appears in the account No. 26 of the parish of St. Michael, without the north gate, Bath : — " et de vijd pro cariagio lapidum ad predietam I domum et de iiijd in expensas apud Farley pro meremio." 1 But the quarries must have been in work long before that period. Mr, Newman, an experienced builder of Bathford, has examined care- 1 fully the foundation and the interior stone- work of the Priory, which date from the early part of the thirteenth century, and pronounces | the whole to be of Farleigh Down stone, quarried out of the now I disused quarries. There are at present no less than ten different quarries at work in the parish, and the outcome of marketable stone is very considerable, f This stone has not now, although in earlier days there was an upper stratum which had, the durability of the Box stone, but it is easy to work and is very valuable for use in the interior of buildings. It is sometimes used for exteriors also, but is apt to yield to the frost. 1 1 Mr. Tooke kindly furnished the above extract from the late Mr. Pearson's accounts of the parish of St. Michael, Bath, page 48, and Mr. Pearson, he says, 1 explains that under the word " meremium " was comprehended stone fetched from Farley and other quarries for building purposes. By Sir Charles Hobhouse, Bart, 69 CHAPTER II. Antiquities. I shall begin with the days of the Romans, and there is undoubted evidence that our parish was known to and frequented by them. We abut upon Kingsdown Common, and are only one mile from Bathford, two from Box, and four from Bath, as the crow flies. That the Romans occupied Bath is, of course, well known, but it may not be so well remembered that a Roman camp existed on Kingsdown, and that Roman villas have been discovered at Bath- ford and Box.1 Thsse facts would lead us to expect to find Roman remains in our parish, and accordingly at the north west angle of it and forming the boundary-line between it and Box parish, are traces of the Roman road from Bath to Marlborough. " Across the parish," says Canon Jackson, u a little northward of the manor house, runs from west to east a certain line which many of our antiquarians consider to have been part of a celebrated boun- dary, called the Wansdyke. Its traces are not very distinct here, but in those places in which it has never been disturbed by the plough, and where it may still be seen (as on the Marlborough Down) in its original perfection, the Wansdyke consists of a high earthen bank with a deep trench running below it on the northern side. ' c The name appears to have been of Saxon origin ; Wodensdyke, the ditch of Woden, the Saxon name for Mercury, a deity whom there is also no doubt our Saxon forefathers held in the first honor. The name of Wodensdyke is found applied to this ancient line in numerous Saxon charters, so that, so far as the name goes, it would seem to be a work of that nation and therefore not older than A.D. 450, the earliest date of the arrival in this country of any wor- shipper of Woden. " The learned Canon then enters into a discussion as to the antiquity of the Wansdyke, and as to the purposes for which it was made, and concludes that, whether the work traceable in our parish be a part Skrine's Bathford, p. 23. Aubroy, p. 55. 70 Some Account of the Parish oj Monhton Farleigh. of the Wansdyke or no, yet "as a Roman road we may safely ac- knowledge it and as such Sir Richard Iloare has carefully described it. "In 1819 he employed a party of antiquaries and surveyors to examine, field by field, the Roman road from Bath to Marlborough. It is well known that there were two Roman roads from Bath on the eastern side — one to Cirencester, the other to Marlborough. The former, to Cirencester, came along the present turnpike road to Batheaston, and then continued on by the Foss Lane, as it is still called, to Colerne. But it is not known whether the lower road, to Marlborough, issued from Bath distinctly by itself, or whether for the first two miles one and the same road did not serve for both and forked off at Batheaston. (i If the Roman road to Marlborough issued from Bath distinctly by itself, then it must have come by Sydney Gardens to Bathford, where it must have crossed the Avon by a ford or bridge. The first object of Sir Richard's exploring party, accordingly, was to try and find any trace of the Marlborough road near the Avon at Bathford. But they found none, nor any signs of Roman road up the side of Bathford Hill, until they came to the top of Ashley Wood, from which point they got upon the scent of their game.1 " Here, says their report, its elevated ridge becomes visible, having a stone quarry on each side of it,2 and forming a boundary between the parishes of Box and Monkton Farleigh. Above this wood the line continues apparent, having an ash tree growing upon it, and a 1 Whether the Roman road and the Wansdyke are one and the same work I do not pretend to say, but a portion of the Wansdyke can still, Mr. Skrine says, | be traced in the [Bathford ?] meadows " as the landmark of Warleigh manor against Forde in a field called Ash- Hayes," and although Mr. Skrine would, I am sure, he the last person to pit his authority against that of an authority such I as Sir Richard Hoare, yet as a resident on the spot and as a gentleman of re- j search he is entitled to be heard, and he says " I believe that the old road to I Marlborough went straight up the hill, along Court Lane, and through Captain Pickwick's fields, to the foot of the Common, thence winding up the Farleigh Down. I remember having seen the old road myself, many feet below the path- way and so dangerous to foot passengers that it was filled up by the late Major Pickwick." Bathford, pages 7 and 10. 2 One of these is called " The Shamble Pits," and never could have formed j any part of a stone quarry. — [C. P. H.] By Sir Charles Hobhouse, Bart. 71 wall upon a gentle rise, forming the north boundary of some arable fields for nearly half-a-mile, in the last of which we perceived a barrow, not elevated high above the surface, but of a considerable circumference; it is situated in Charclose" [Chalklease, or Charclays, No. 112, M. F. Tythe Map] "to the south of the road, and distant from it about fifty yards. A stone stile, where heretofore a gateway to Monkton Farleigh House was placed, now stands at the bottom of this field and on the line of road, also some recent plantations " [No. 140, Tythe Map], "which continue on the ridge for about one hundred yards. The rise is nearly lost as we entered a large arable field beyond the plantations " [Box parish, piece No. 75H, Tythe Map], "it having been lowered by the plough, but still not totally destroyed, and the line corresponding with its ascent to Spye Park at a distance. The road shortly afterwards crosses the present approach to Farley House (Link Lane), near a clump of oak and ash trees " [now gone, but No. 750, Tythe Map], "and enters another large arable field " [Mary's croft, No. 144, Tythe Map], " leaving Wraxall Copse about fifty yards to the right, but it is scarcely discernible, the ridge having been much levelled by the plough. At a short distance beyond this field it traverses the turn- pike road between Bath and South Wraxall and the swell of road is very evident. Having passed the turnpike road it enters the narrow part of a small enclosure 33 [Hancock's piece, No. 145, Tythe Map], "now planted with camomile, and is clearly to be traced at the north end of Wraxhall Copse, the ridge being nearly twelve feet high and having a wall upon it. There was a tradition amongst the country people that the Roman causeway was passable through the fields, and admitted loads of corn to have been carried upon it." So far Sir Richard Hoare. Canon Jackson goes on: — "It then continues along a hollow, known by the name of Bulcot Lane, and is now beyond the parish of Monkton Farleigh. The Roman roads near Bath have been found to have been constructed, first by a layer of large flat stones, then a foot-and-a-half of earth and rubble, and afterwards a course of small stones, with pavement or pitching stones upon the surface." 72 Some Account of the Parish of Monhton Farleigh. I have followed the line of this road in accordance with the des- cription above given of it, and I find that it is still traceable, especially in Chalkleaze and at Wraxall Copse (now called Chalk- lands) . The pavement or pitching-stones that may have formed the surface of the road are not now perceptible, but the flat-stones that must have formed the foundation are to be traced plentifully, and above them was not simply " earth and rubble 33 but a thick layer of good concrete, the mortar as fresh and the concrete in some places as hard as ever. It is not only here, however, in the extreme north of the parish, that traces of Roman occupation are to be found, but at the extreme south of the parish have been found other traces not less unmis- takeable. Here, in the hamlet of Farley Wick, is a plantation called In- woods. This is situated on a high clifT, on the road to the hamlet of Conkwell, overhanging the valley of the Avon and commanding a view of Bath. Here are still to be seen large blocks of hewn- stone, the remains evidently of buildings, and here were dug up some Roman coins of the time of the Antonines1 — A.D. 142 — 52. Canon Jones is of opinion that it was not until eighty or ninety years after the subjugation of Britain by Claudius that the Romans began to visit this part of it. This conjecture, curiously enough, would bring them here exactly in the time of those Antonines whose coins were here discovered. I may, perhaps, mention that it was circa 1826 that the coins were discovered, and that my informant's father, who found them, described them as of brass, in an earthen jar, which was broken in the finding, and about " a peck's weight/'' So the Romans lived and travelled and camped in our midst. There is a tradition, also, supported by a certain non-natural formation of the ground, which would indicate the site of a British settlement. ? East of Link Lane, and commencing in an orchard called j Stallard's Close, is a deep diagonal indentation in the ground. Mr. Powell had some of these in his possession. MONKTON FAR LEI CH. FRACM ENT OF THE PR/ ORY. '', ; jj hi.. .'!'•'. ,,illllli)r j External Elevation By Sir Charles Hobhouse, Bart. 73 This stops at a long mound, which meets it at an acute angle in a field called Lower Park Mead. This mound runs east and west; at right angles to it is another mound running north and souths and inside is a hollow of distinct shape and regularity. At the north- east angle of the two mounds are two large upright stones, facing one another, and with eyelets in them as if for the insertion of posts. Corresponding to these stones are exactly similar ones in the ad- joining field called Shepherd's Leaze. I state facts, and I venture no comment. It may be a case of tc Praetorian here, Praetorian there" as old Edie Ochiltree has it, but at least there is no one in the parish who, like the said Edie, " minds the bigging o't." Although the term antiquity cannot in strict propriety be applied to the events of the twelfth century, yet this seems to me the most suitable place in which to dwell on certain architectural remains in our parish that appertain to that and to the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. In his History of the Priory of Monkton Farleigh, published at Devizes, in 1857, Canon Jackson has dealt, I need hardly say in a most exhaustive manner, with so much of the annals of our parish as are made up of the history of the Priory, and for that history I refer my readers to the learned canon's book. But I shall venture to add a few words to his description of " the Remains of the Priory."" He speaks of a wall which contains " two- very good lancet windows with bold mouldings/'' Of this wall, Mr. Talbot says that "it is of the very earliest pointed work, certainly older than any part of Salisbury Cathedral." The outer part of it now forms the inner wall of a carpenter's shop, and I have traced to some extent the foundation of what must have been the interior of the building, of which this wall was a part. From the width and length of these foundations, and from the height of the wall, the building must have been of considerable size. From its position in relation to the manor house and to the ruins of the ecclesiastical part of the priory, I am persuaded it formed a part of the domestic buildings of the priory — was it the hostelry ? West of this wall, perhaps a quarter-of-a-mile from it, and in a 74 Some Account of the Paris/i of Monkton Farleigh. field on a level with the top of the manor house, called Conduit Piece (No. 125 in the Tythc Map) is the stone building called by Canon Jackson "the Monks' Conduit/'' "From its general ap- pearance, and the great steepness of the roof/' Mr. Talbot's im- pression of this is, " that it is a fourteenth century building, with the roof re-constructed." 1 This covered, no doubt, as Canon J ackson says, " the spring which supplied the convent " of former days, and this still covers the spring which supplies the manor house. North and east of the manor house I have lately uncovered some foundations and pavements, of which I give a brief account for the purpose of record — Drawing F. There is first of all a. pavement, made partly of encaustic and partly of freestone tiles, which runs east and west. This is bounded on the west and south, and partly perhaps on the north by walls and on the east is discontinued, having been apparently there broken up. This pavement is 7 feet broad, and up to the point at which it now ends is 45 feet long. Towards the east end and on the north side of this pavement is a space as if for a doorway, and therein is a similar pavement of the same width and 25 feet long. Foundation walls close in this pavement on all sides save at a very narrow space at the south-east corner. At this corner there was apparently an entrance which led into a chamber 25 feet long and 21-8 feet broad. In this chamber there were no signs of pavement within the space marked a to h on the plan, but north and south of it were foundation stones of a semi- circular form, attached to stone platforms; and at the south-west corner, about 2 feet above the foundation walls, were sills of blue stone returned in the angle. One of the semicircular stones had holes drilled into or through it, as if there had been some fixture on it. From out the excavations generally were dug the frames of a door and window ; some stained or painted glass ; many loose tiles, of various patterns ; interior mouldings of the twelfth to the fifteenth 1 A witness to a Kingston House document of date 1274 signs himself "William deputeo de Farlege " — William of the Well. 218 PLAN OF A PORTION OF SITE Wbitem an &B ass , litko Lon don By Sir Charles Iiobhouse, Bart. 75 centuries in date ; and slabs, one with part of an inscription on it, as of tombstones or screens. It is well known that certain excavations were made round and about the manor house by Lord Webb Seymour in 1744, and certain others by Mr. Wade Browne in IS I I, but I have ascertained, from persons present in I S 1- \ , that the excavations then made were on a different site to those I have described, and neither do these latter at all correspond with those made in 1744. But there can, I think, be no sort of doubt that the foundations now uncovered appertained to some one part or other of the ecclesi- astical buildings of the Priory. It was, wre know, by the monks of St. Paneras, Lewes, that our Priory was built. It is reasonable, therefore, to conclude, that in building they would follow the lines of their mother Priory. It is, I believe the fact, that the various orders of monks usually built on plans peculiar to the particular order. I have a plan of the Lewes buildings, and I find that the ecclesiastical buildings stood to the north, that directly east of these was the churchyard and that west and at a right angle to them stood the domestic buildings. I have explained in another part of my paper by what means I have discovered the exact sites of the churchyard and of the domestic buildings of the Priory and, these sites ascertained, I should have expected to find the ecclesiastical buildings exactly where the ex- cavations now open would shew them to be. My judgment is that the foundations I have uncovered are cloisters, leading either to the chapter house, of which Layton, in his letter to Cromwell, speaks, or to a mortuary chapel, but I hardly like to venture on any con- jecture, and I submit the various plans which Mr. Adye has kindly drawn of the excavations, and his note thereon, for the consideration of persons better able to judge. CHAPTER III. The History of our Manor. Our first appearance as a manor is in Domesday,1 where I find the following entries : — Jones's Domesday for Wiltshire p. 231. 76 Some Account of the Parish of MonJcton Farleigh. " Terra Odonis et aliorum Tainorum Regis." (Land of Odo and other of the King's Thanes.) Brictric tenet Farlege et frater Brictric holds Farlege and his ejus de eo. Tempore Hegi Ed- brother holds it of him- In the wardi geldabat pro 5 hidis. time of King Edward it paid Terra est 4 carucatse. In do- geld for 5 hides. The land is 4 minio est 1 carucata et 4 servi ; carucates. In demesne is one et 5 villani, et 3 bordarii cum 3 carucate and 4 serfs, and there carucatis. Ibi 20 acrse pasturae are 5 villans and 3 bordars and et 3 acrse silvse. Valet 70 solidos. 3 carucates. There are 20 acres of pasture and 3 acres of wood. It is worth 70 shillings. The first recorded ancestor of Brictric was one Alyward, or Aylward Mere, or Meau, a Saxon nobleman of royal lineage, who founded the monastery of Cranbourne in Dorset. To him succeeded iElfghar, or Algar, who completed the foundation and Brictric is mentioned as his grandson and a benefactor.1 According to Domesday Brictric' s father held upwards of five thousand acres of land in Wiltshire only, whilst Brictric himself held upwards of six thousand eight hundred acres under the Con- queror besides some five thousand three hundred acres more, which he had held under Edward the Confessor. He is said to have had manors also in Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Gloucester, and Worces- ter. He was one of the king's thanes, i.e., he served the king in some place ' ' of eminency either in the Court or Commonwealth/' 2 and was a possessor of land in this capacity, and for these services. He was so far, however, more fortunate than his co-temporary thanes in that he had his " Vates sacer." According to this authority, he was sent by Edward the Confessor to the Court of Baldwin, Count of Flanders, in the matter of Earl Godwin. Here he had the misfortune to please the eye of Matilda, 1 Jones's Domesday, p. 41. 2 Jones's Domesday, p. 4. By Sir Charles Hohhouse, Bart. 77 Baldwin's daughter, and the following quaint ballad thus records the disastrous result of the lady's wooing : — " A lui la pucele envela messager Pur sa amur a lui procurer ; Meis Brictrich Maude refusa, Dunt elle mult se coruca ; Hastivement mer passa E a William Bastard se maria." So Matilda woo'd and was refused, and thereafter, when she became Queen of England, smarting, no doubt, under the " spretse injuria forms/' she is said to have appropriated Brictric's possessions, and to have thrown him into prison.1 One of his possessions, still called after him, Brixton (or Bricticis- ton)-Deverel, passed undoubtedly to Matilda, but inasmuch as she died before Domesday was compiled, and inasmuch as we still find him, according to Domesday, described as a king's thane, in pos- session of the largest part at least of the Wiltshire manors which he had held before the Conquest, it cannot be true that Matilda absolutely despoiled him or that she deprived him permanently of either his liberty or his position. What were the further fortunes of Brictric and his family I do not know, but I imagine that he and they were eaten up, as the Zulus say, by that great land-hungerer — Edward of Salisbury, Certainly this individual, whether in his capacity of sheriff of the county, or by private purchase, had in A.D. 1100 — or only fourteen years after the record in Domesday — 'eaten up Brictric's manor of Trowbridge and Staverton,2 and as certainly, in the year 1125, our manor had passed first into the hands of Humphrey Bohun the second, and from him into those of Humphrey Bohun the third, and had by them been conveyed to the Priory of St. Pancras, Lewes, for the purpose of founding a daughter Cluniac priory in our parish.3 1 Sussex Archaeological Coll., v. 28, p. 121. Jones's Annals of Trowbridge, pp. 5, 6. 2 Jones's Annals of Trowbridge, pp. 6, 7. 3 Monasticon. Jones's Annals of Trowbridge, p. 7. Jackson's History of tlio Priory and Wiltshire Domesday, p. 64. 78 Some Account of the Parish of Monition Farleigh. Now the first Humphrey Bohun married Matilda, sole daughter of Edward of Salisbury, and she, on her father's death, shared his I estates with her only brother. Thereafter the manors of Trowbridge and Stavcrton, as well as that of Farley, pass through her to the priory. It is only, therefore, reasonable to conjeeture that they all I passed from Brictric to Edward of Salisbury, and so to our I Priory. There has been a difference of opinion as to whether it was the | second or the third Humphrey Bohun who founded our Priory, but I my judgment is that the first commenced and the second concluded the foundation. The charter is styled " Carta Humfridi de Bohun, Regis Dapi- f feri, de fundatione Prioratus de Farleighe."" This is evidently the third Humphry Bohun, for the second was never " Regis Dapifer/' but the charter goes on, sometimes absolutely to give and sometimes only to confirm, the gift of properties, and in the case of our parish the gift is only confirmed ; confirmed therefore, I conclude, as the previous gift of the father, Humphrey the second. There is something very characteristic of the times in this charter, a terseness, brevity and precision, appropriate to the military life of I the grantor, and in marked contrast to our manorial deeds of later date and quieter times. Humphrey and his wife (Margaret, daughter of Milo of Gloucester, I Earl of Hereford), with consent of their barons and men, give, concede, and confirm (donamus et concedimus et confirmamus) to God and the Holy Mary Magdalen and the monks at Monkton Farleigh, certain properties, for the saltation of their souls and o£ the souls of those belonging to them. Then follows a concise enu- meration, as thus in the case of our parish : — this must have been found to be an extravagant practice ; and when to this was added the obvious fact, that the capriciousness of the climate rendered it more suitable to the profitable culture of pasture rather than of arable lands, the process of conversion from arable into pasture must have proceeded in an ever increasing ratio. That this process should at this moment be proceeding more rapidly than ever is natural enough, a decrease in the value of cereals having been superadded to the other motive causes above-mentioned, but it seems to me to be obvious that it is mainly to the capricious- ness of the climate, rather than to any outside competition for prices, that we owe the so great conversion of arable into pasture land. To return to the year 1535-6. It was in this year that the dissolution of our Priory was brought about. The monks were 86 Some Account of the Parish of Monkton Farlcigh. dispersed, their ecclesiastical buildings were pulled down, their manor, their farmsteads, and probably their domestic buildings, were made over to the Earl of Hertford, afterwards the Protector Somerset. The history of the manor thereafter merges into that of the manor house, and this will form the subject of my next chapter. In appendices A. to F. will be found some further details of the manor and its people in Clugniac times which perhaps may be of interest. CHAPTER IV. The Manor House. Our manor house, like most other buildings of equal antiquity, bears, upon the face of it, the signs of various ages and many changes, but I am persuaded that it stands upon the exact site and to some extent upon the very foundations of the domestic buildings of the Priory. The stone of which it is built was brought, I have ascertained, out of the now disused quarries on Farlcigh Down, and corresponds in that respect with the stone of which the Priory was built. Fur- thermore the position of the house relatively to what was the position of the ecclesiastical buildings of the Priory, places it, as I have elsewhere explained, exactly where the domestic buildings of the Priory might be expected to be. And, again, the west side of the main body of the house belongs, according to Mr. Talbot, undoubtedly to the Elizabethan period. These facts would not, of course, be at all conclusive, nor would they take us necessarily to the Priory times, but, through the kind- ness of Mr. Henry Hancock, I have had access to the records of the manor, and amongst them is a lease of A.D. 1638, which recites in detail a previous lease of the year 1547-48. By this deed the then Bishop of Salisbury leased our manor house to one Henry Breton, styling it " the house, sight, circuit, premises and grounds of the late dissolved monastery of Monkton Farleigh." Now it was in 1535-36 that the bill for the dissolution of the lesser monasteries, i.e., of monasteries where " the congregation of relygyous persones is under the number of xij," and where the By Sir Charles Hobhouse, Bart. 87 properties are not above the clere yerely value of two hundredth poundes," passed the Houses of Parliament, and that the properties of the said monasteries were " gy ven to the King's Highnes, his heires and successores." 1 And it was not until St. Bartholomew's Bay, 1535, that Dr. Layton, Cromwell's Commissary, held his enquiry at our Priory. Therefore at that time the Priory and all its buildings were still standing in their integrity. But five years later Leland speaks of it in the past tense. Here, he says, " by the village there was a priorie, standinge on a little hille, sumtyme having blak monkes, a prior and a convent of 12," and further on he adds that " Monke- ton Farley was a late gyven to the Erie of Hertford." 2 So the Priory and all its buildings were in existence in the latter end of the year 1535, but in 1540 the Priory itself was gone. It does not follow, however, that all its buildings, secular as well as ecclesiastical, were gone, for the custom of the king's commission- ers was only to destroy the ecclesiastical or so-called useless buildings, and to sell or give away the estates with the secular part of the buildings intact. Thus, in the case of the mother Priory of St. Pancras, John Portinari writes to Cromwell, 24th March, 1537, describing how he took with him from London no less than thirty-four artizans of various trades, and in a few days utterly pulled down and destroyed all the ecclesiastical buildings, leaving the secular buildings standing.3 Obviously too, the objects being on the one hand ostensibly the suppression of useless and corrupt religious bodies, and on the other hand lust of property, the ecclesiastical buildings would go, as no longer wanted, and the secular buildings would stand to maintain the value of the secular property. Thus, amongst the records " of the manner of suppressing the monasteries after they were surrendered," I find in the list of " Houses and Buildings assigned to remain undefaced," " the abbots 1 27, Henry VIII., cap. 28. The clear value of our Priory was £153, and the number of monks twelve and a prior. — Monastican and Leland. 2 Lcland's Itinerary. Jackson, p. 14. 3 Letters relating to the Suppression of the Monasteries. Camden Society, 1843. 88 Some Account of the Parish of MonMon Farleigh. lodgings with buttery, pantry, cellar, latching, larder and pantry thereto attached/' also " the hostelry, the great gate entering into the court with the lodging over the same, the abbot's stable, bake- house, brew-house, and slaughter-house, the almry, barn, dairy- house, the great barn, the malting-house, the ox-house, the barton- gate." • And, on the other hand, amongst " buildings deemed to be super- | fluous/' I find "the church, with chappels, cloister, chapter-house, \ misericord, the two dormitories, the infirmary, with chappells and I lodgings within the same, the convent-kitching, the library, the old hostelry, the chamberer's lodging, the^new hall, the old parlor, the cellarer's lodging, the poultry-house, and all other houses not re- j served/' i So, whatever other buildings might or might not be reserved, all ecclesiastical buildings were at least condemned to destruction. Following "this manner of suppression " our ecclesiastical buil- j dings would be, and were, I think, totally uprooted, whilst the j secular buildings were retained and, judging by the description in the lease of 1548, they must have been numerous, and, in the case o£ the house, of considerable size. The manor was, as we have seen, bestowed in the first instance upon the Earl of Hertford, afterwards the Protector Somerset, but it would seem that he very soon found other manors, those of Rams- bury, Baydon, &c, more to his liking, and so, not without some degree of gentle violence it would seem, he gave our manor house and property in exchange to John Salcot, alias Capon, then Bishop of Salisbury.8 I have already quoted so much of the deed of A. D. 1638, as was material for establishing the site of the manor house, but there are other parts of the deed which are worthy of preservation, because they shew the size of the house, and the exact properties of which within ten years of the dissolution the manor was made up, and are curious as evidence of the monkish verbiage, which had taken the 1 Burnet's Kecords, No. 5, Pt. I, Book III., p. lxvii.. 2 Fasti Ecclesise Sarisberiensis. — Jones, p. 107. By Sir Charles Hob/wuse, Bart. 89 place of Humphrey de Bohun's terseness and brevity, since the first conveyance in A.D. 1125. The recital of the lease of 1 548 is to be found in a subsequent lease " of the last day of December, 1638," and runs thus : Whereas i( John sumtyme Bishop of Sarum did deinyse, grant and to farm lett to Henry Breton of Monkton-ffiarleigh in the county of Wiltes, gent, all that his mannor or lordship of Monkton-fFarleigh and Comerwell with the appurtenances within the said county and all and singular messuages, lands, tenements, buildings, barns, stables, heaths, marishes, woods, underwoods, rents, reversions, services, views of frankpledge, waistes, strayes, warrens, and other the rights, jurisdictions, privileges, liberties, profits, commodities, emoluments and hereditaments whatsoever to the manner aforesaid appertaining to have and to hold to the said Henry Breton his heirs, adminis- trators and assigns, from the Feast of Saint Michael the Archangel then last past [1547] unto the end and term of fourscore and nine- teen years [ninety-nine] then next ensueing and under the yerely rent of £38 16*. Zd. payable at the Feast of the Annunciation of Our Blessed Lady St. Mary the Virgin and of St. Michael." Therefore, the indenture goes on to say, by reason of the surrender of the said lease, and also in consideration of a certain sum of money paid, the then bishop (Davenant) leases to Thomas Cornwallis, of Wandsworth, in the county of Surrey, and William Lynsey, the above manors, &c, " from the Feast Day of our Lord God last past [Christmas Day, 1638] to the full end and time of one and t wen tie years yielding the yerely rent of four and forty pounds." And then follows this curious condition, that " if the Bishop or any of his successors shall be willing to live and abide in the said house of Monkton-Farleigh for the space of three months together during the said tenure hereby demysed, he and his suite shall have within the said house one hall or parlor, one buttery, one pantry, one cellar, one kitchen, one larder, one stable and ten convenient lodging chambers,', and " may also fell, cut down, take and carry away yerely so many trees or wood as are or may be growing upon any of the said premises as the said Lord Bishop or his successors shall or may conveniently expend in fuel in three months in any ;Mi Some Account of the Parish of Monk! on Farleigh. one year when any of them may be abiding' in the said house." The house which in 1547 could provide so great accommodation, suitable to the bishop of the diocese, in addition to the accommodation re- quired by the family of the lessee, must have been a considerable and large house, and this particular condition is not only curious but it is probably unique in the annals of episcopacy, and it explains how it was that Bishop Jewel, in 1570, when taken ill at Lacock, did not there remain, but came to our manor house and there died, as is in his life recorded. The Bretons, and after them the Cornwallises, had, by the con- ditions of their respective leases, the presentation to the rectory, which vests now, as from 1548, in the Bishops of Salisbury, but, from the time of William Watson (1661), at least, the bishops re- served to themselves " the donation, advowson and patronage of the rectory and parsonage. " At first, also, the bishops were acquitted by the leases, cc from all quitt rents, pensions, portions and other charges leviable for the said premises/'' " the tenths and subsidies only excepted 33 ; but as time rolled on they relieved their tenants of " all leases, grants, rents, rent-charges, annuities, fees, tithes, troubles, and incumbrances whatever made or done by them/' and further agreed to leave " sufficient timber trees standing or growing for the necessary repairs of the premises," and for (i Fire-boot, Hedge-boot, Plough-boot, and Cart-boot, according to the custom of the country." 1 On the other hand the rent was raised from £38 16s. 2d., in 1548, to £44, in 1638, and to £50, in 1697, in which was included a sum of £10 "as an augmentation to the parsonage of Monkton Farleigh"; " the customary tenants " were to be allowed by the lessee sufficient timber for the reparation and maintenance of their customary tene- ments," the same to be growing on their premises. The bishops were to have the right of " cutting down and carrying away such timber trees as according to the custom of the country were fit to 1 Fire-boot, wood for house-firing ; Plough- and Cart-boot, wood for repairing implements of husbandry ; Hedge-boot, wood for hedge and fence repairs. — Stephens' Commentaries, v. L, p. 254, Ed. viii. Boot or bote, synonymous with "estovers" from estoffier to furnish. — Jones's Domesday Introduction. By Sir Charles Hobhouse, Hart. 91 be cut and felled (pollard trees excepted) " [1792] ; the lessees were prohibited from making any assignment of the premises, " otherwise than by mortgage, or marriage settlement, or will/' and even then previous intimation was to be given to the bishops (1805) and the leases, though ostensibly made to run for twenty-one years, were practically renewed, on considerations made, every seven years. The lessees of the manor house were : — The Bretons, 1547 to 1638 — with sub-tenants in William Bromfield, d. 1582, and the Cornwallises. The Cornwallises and William Whitwell 1638—1654. William Watson 1654—1695. Daniel Webb 1695—1731. John Thresher 1731—1737. Sir Edward Seymour, 8th Duke of Somerset 1737—1757. Lord Webb Seymour, 10th Duke of Somerset 1758—1792. Anna Maria, Dowager Duchess of Somerset and her heirs 1799—] 804. William Cass, of the Poultry, London 1805—1812. John Long, the Elder 1812—1833. John Long, the Younger The Rev. Walter Long, Kelloes House C 1835 1842. Catherine Elizabeth Mary Long J Wade Browne and his heirs 1842 — 57. Mrs. Wade Browne and her lessees — Edward Pennefather and the Rev. E. R. Eardly Wilmot 1857—1863. H. B. Caldwell, Esq. 1864—1870. It is probable that the Bretons, or Brittons, were connected with the manor before they came to reside here, for I find a certain William Britton recorded as auditor to the Priory, in the return of the temporalia in 1535, on a yearly fee of 40