WITH FLASHLIGHT AND RIFLE VOL. II WITH FLASHLIGHT AND RIFLE A RECORD OF HUNTING ADVENTURES AND OF STUDIES IN WILD LIFE IN EQUATORIAL EAST AFRICA BY C. G. SCHILLINGS TKANM.ATK.D )!V FREDERIC WHYTE WITH AN INTKoHrCTION 1!V SIR H. H. JOHNSTON, G.C.M.G., K.C.B. ILLUSTRATED WITH 302 OF THE AUTHOR'S "UNTOUCHED PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY DAY AND NIGHT VOL. II LONDON : HLTCHINSON AND CO. PATERNOSTER ROW 1906 Contents of Vol. II CHAP. XIX. MOKK LIOX-IICXTIXC FXl'F.RIFXCFS XX. LFOl'ARDS . . . -397 XXI. TIIK HY.F.NA-DOC, T1IK LYNX, TIIK \YILI> CAT, AND Till. OTTF.R . . . .413 XXII. TIIK ANT-IiF.AR. TIIK I'OR< TI'IXF, Till' \VII.D HOAR, AN' D SMALLFR MAMMALS . ^2~ XXIII. IIY T.XAS AND JACKALS. . \^) XXIV. TH1-: ANTKLOI'KS OF MAST AFRICA. . 470 XXY. C.A/FLLKS AND DWARF AXTKI.OI'F.S . 51^ XXVI. AI'F.S AXD MONKKYS ... . 5^7 XXXII. STALKIXi; KXI'KDITIOXS IX TIIF XYIKA. . 557 XXYIII. XICI1 T-SIIOOTS . . 627 XXIX. YF.LT CONFLAr,RATK)X> . h ; ; XXX. 1IOSTILK FORCI-S . . (145 XXXI. TIIF. I'KFSl-'.KX ATIoX OF AFRICAN* CAM]-' . V "* Contents of Vol. II CIIAI1. J'AI.K XXXII. A RACK. OK WARLIKE SI I KI'I I KRI )S : THK MASAI 716 KNVOI . . . . • • . . .729 AI'I'KNDIX A. A KE\V WORDS ABOUT HKRR C. (]. SCHILLINGS' COLLECTION OK EAST AFRICAN MAMMALS . 735 APPENDIX B. A SYNOPSIS OK HERR SCHILLINGS' COLLECTION OK BIRDS .... 747 VI List of Illustrations in VoL II .- . Vultures feeding on the Remain* »f a Spotted H\;ena ..... 401 I, ion ...... 377 Remains of a Rhinoceros . . . 463 Lioness about to spring upon a Donkey 379 Spotted lly;ena feeding on the Carcase My First Lioness .... 383 ol a Mule ..... 466 Lioness photographed at a Distance of Spotted Ilyieua making for a (loat . 467 only about Three Yards . . . 387 Herd of Fringe-eared Antelopes . 470 Lioness killing an ()\ . . . 3^3 A Lesser Kudu Skin .... 471 The ("amp ...... 307 Herd of Klands . . 473 Spoiled I ly;ena about lo spring on a Wounded Hull (Inu .... 475 Donkey ...... 399 Tliree Tame White-bearded ( inus . 477 A Full-grown Leopard . . . 405 (inus ....... 4,Si William ( )rgeich .... 40(1 Herd of (inns ..... 4X3 Prince Li i\s enstein at Work . . 413 While-bearded (inus .... 483 Spotted Hy.etia making off with the Hull (inn pausing belnre dunking • 4^5 Hody of an Ass .... 415 Xebras and ( inus .... 4X9 A (iood F.xample of Protective Ke- A Pair of White-bearded (inus in the semblance ..... 417 Knclosure a' Wcihcrhi .1 (im/cniji. 403 Sceneon the P>ank of the Pangani River 419 Fringe-eared ( >ry\ . . . 405 A Tree-badger's Hmne . . . 421 Grant"s( ia/ellesand Fringe-eared < )ry\ 407 Hundreds ol Vultures and some Mara A Party o| Impallas .... 501 bous ami Jackals .... 422 A Female Waterbuck . . . S"3 Spotted Ily.ena and Jackals feeding I lartebecsts . . . 505 on a Carcase ..... 423 Female (ierenuk (ia/elle . . . 507 Tke Laliiti Mountains . . . 427 Kongoni, or('okes Ilariebeests . y>o View on the Rulu Uiver near the A Concourse of Zebras, (inns, llai'e- llohnel Rapids .... 420 becsts, and ( ia/elles . 513 ( )ur Camp at Sunset . . 435 Wild Animals at a Salt-pool . . 510 Flands ...... 430 (irant's ( ia/elles . . . 517. 519. 521 Vultures looking out for Food . . 440 ( ir.inl's ( ia/elles in tin- I ligii ' iia-s . ^2^ A Hlack-backed Jackal disturbed \\hile Musk-antelopes . drinking. ..... 442 The Slrange ( ieienuk ( ia/i !U . V>' Stripeil Ily.i-na making oil \\ith a Moimtain-rcedbuck .... 533 /ebia's Head. .... 4.13 A Herd of lemale ( iiant's ( i.i/elle- . 535 Striped lly.cnas .... 4-jS. 440 K.iphia and other I'aliii-. I'am. nil. ds. P.lack-backed Jackals ..... 154 audliaokd.s . .537 [ackal making off with the Leg of an "Mbega" Monki-y, 01 \\Kite-tailed Antelope ..... 4;^ ( iuere/a . . . . • 5 i" A " 1- ISM " living to drag away the A Tro ip of ll.iboons , nil \ . .: . , )5 Carcase of an A-s .... 400 l!al ..... us ... 5;1' List of Illustrations in Vol. II The Baboon at the Moshi Station and its Playmate 55 l Capturing a Galago .... 555 Papyrus 557 A Cock Masai Ostrich and Two liens 559 A Bird's-eye View of Masai-Nyika . 561 Snow-capped Kilimanjaro . . . 563 The Kaiser Wilhelm Peak . . .565 Xests of White-billed Weaver-birds in " Umbrella" Acacia-trees . . 567 A Great Bull Kland .... 569 Gnus and Zebras on the Salt-encrusted Plains near Lake Natron . • 571 Some Specimens of Schillings' Giraffe. 575 Fgrets ... . 579 Crested Cranes ..... 579 White-bearded Gnus . . . .581 White-bearded Gnus, Hartebeests, and Xebras 585 A Flock of Sacred Ibises . . . 589 A White-headed Sea-eagle . . 591 Vultures 593 Orgeich preparing Ornithological Specimens ..... 595 Preparing Giraffe-skins . . . 597 Preparing the Hide of the First Buffalo I shot 60 1 A Pool of Vellow Wa'er . . .605 Carriers indulging in a Wash . . 607 Meerkats 609 A Secretary-bin! on the Veil . . 6ll Waterbtick . . . . • -613 Oryx Antelopes ... . 614 Vultures on the Wing . . . 615 Papyrus-woods to the West of Njiri Swamps . . . • • .617 Haunt of Elephants and Rhinoceroses 617 Herd of Xebras 619 Klipspringers .... 623 Filling up a Native Pit-fall . . 625 " Pori " 627 A Curious Photograph of a Maned Lion and an Ox ..... 629 Female Grant's (la/elks taking to tliglit 635 Vultures . 0?7 One of my Guides . . . . ' J rant's ( iax.elles . Grant's Gazelles moving out into the Open ...... The Pick of my Askaris. in charge of our Flag .... Provisions ...... A Rocky Pass .... A Party of Natives . . . . My Carriers . . . . . A Tame Baboon riding on a Mule Crossing a Stream . . . . A Native Drawbridge A Carrier sunk up to the Armpits in the Sodden Grass . . . . A Velt March The Ruins of the Masinde Fort . A Urinking-place . . . . An Impenetrable Thicket . A Thorn-thicket . . . . A Forsaken Village . . . . Wandorobo . . . . . The Cook at his Avocations Wandorobo marching ahead of the Caravan ...... Wives of Carriers . . . . Wandorobo . Tawny Fagle and Kori Bustard . A Scene on the Route A Maned Lion . . . . . Masai A Stately Specimen ol the Ol Morani Masai Women . A Beehive .... A Native I >anrf . . . . . Masai Ol Morani \\ith Spears and Shields A Ma-ai and his < K . Masai Women . . . . . Thomson's ( la/.elles .... A Native ( iateway . . . . 01 Uorobo .... The " Stonehouse " XyumbayaMawe Hollow Trunk of a Gigantic Fig-tree . Three Species of Birds discovered by Authoi . I'AciK 639 641 643 647 651 657 66 1 663 667 669 671 675 677 679 68 1 683 687 689 691 695 697 699 701 704 709 716 7'7 719 720 - 7^7 7-29 73' / 3- 735 739 740 Vfl.Tl'KKS 1-KKIMNi; ON TIIK UKMAI.NS OF A I.IoN More Lioti'Hunting Experiences TIIK narrative- just given I have reproduced from the pages of /)('/' ll'cidnianu (T/ic Sportsman] just as I wrote it at the time. I thought it better not to alter it in an\' way, as the events were still fresh in my mind when I set to work at it. In the course of the following years other travellers had opportunities ot showing similar prowess as sportsmen on the Kikuyu tableland. In one case I was excelled in the number of lions killed in a single day. All these were cases of first-rate Austrian and Knglish sportsmen with e.\cellent weapons at their disposal. Had I possessed similar rifles instead of the obsolete single-barrelled one of unsatisfactory make I could have made a bigger bag. 1'iuler such difficult conditions, handicapped by so many unfavourable circumstances. weakened by fever, and with poor weapons, I have reason. I think, to be satisfied with what I did. Such a success, as I have alreadv said, never came mv \\ay again. I had a very exciting experience with an old mailed lion in the autumn of iSqu. on the ri^ht bank ot the VOL. II. I \Yith Flashlight and Rifle •-* Pangani River. Lions had been showing themselves for some days in the vicinity of the camp. Almost every night I had heard them roaring, chiefly at certain spots by the river. I had succeeded in getting a number of the striped hyaenas which I had myself discovered. I had set traps — small, but strong, Weber's iron traps — in order to catch " kinguguas," as the natives call hyaenas and jackals. It happened that an old lion stepped upon one of these and caught himself by one of the claws of the front paw, breaking the iron chain, of course, at once. Evidently he had not got the iron off his paw, his efforts to do so probably causing him too much pain. So he had taken himself off with the iron clinging to him, dragging his leg, step by step, for a couple of hours, probably into the thorn-thicket bordering upon the steep declivity of the Nyika. Little by little he had succeeded in almost destroying the snare with his teeth, but the spring and guard still clattered round his claw. Early next morning we looked for his tracks, and followed them up through the thorn-thicket with great diffi- culty, expecting every moment to come upon the slipped- oft snare. Suddenly I heard, straight in front of me, the deep growling of the infuriated lion, and at the same moment the beast started off afresh with the snare dangling beside- him. I was surprised that the; powerful beast could not shake; it off, it was so small. Following him, always with the; utmost caution, through the extraordinarily dense underwood, I got quite close to him five or six times, but each time he made away before I could get a shot at him. Several times I actually cau<>ht si<>"ht of him straight 378 • •> More Lion-Hunting Kxperiences in front of me, but so indistinctly that I could not make sure of my shot. To shoot at a venture in such circum- stances would have been suicide. Xo\v, again, I hear him growling angrily. Every nerve is tense ; the; outlines of things seem to quiver in the shimmering sunlight re- flected from the sand of the; velt ; the thorn, becoming- denser and denser, made progress almost impossible. There ! — another angry growl -the; trap is heard to clatter several times against the ground, and, with a mighty stamping, the lion once again has made; off. But this time, with a shake of his paw, IK; has thrown off the trap upon the sand, and our pursuit is in vain. My clever Wandorobo, however, managed to make out his tracks as he went oft, first with threat leaps and bounds, then falling into a kind of ambling trot. Imme- diately I take up the pursuit afresh. Dripping with sweat, 1 keep on for about a quarter of an hour ; then on again for as long, until at last I see the lion, still raging and growling, evidently in great pain from its wound, starting again on its flight, growling and stamping. \o one who has not heard it can form any notion of the way a full-grown lion simply thunders along over the hard ground of the velt. I follow him as speedily as I can, with all my pulses beating ; several times I come within sight of him. At last 1 have him distinctly before me in a small glade. lie turns his head towards me. My rifle rings out, and he tails, as though struck by lightning, \\ith a dull thud and a dying growl. A second shot, tired tor safety's sake, assures me of my coveted prey. My ]oy and satisfaction over m hard-won troh know no bounds. With Flashlight and Rifle * Now we: realise, for the first time:, that ejur pursuit has taken us nearly six hcjurs, and that our throats are: parched ; but we bear up cheerfully. The thought of the: royal booty we have captured against our expectations gives us new stores of strength, and enables us to forget our thirst and the scars and scratches we have got em face and hands from the thorns. Once again I had killed a big lion, and under exceptional conditions. It has happened to me — only too often, unfcjrtunately- to have merely come in sight of lions, whether single specimens or several of them together. Either I have seen them for a second only, and they have been out of range, or in high grass at close quarters when I have: not been ready to fire, or just at the mome:nt of their disappearing into a thicket. Thus it was once I came upon a lioness standing near a zebra she hael been tearing to pieces. Numbers of vultures, elrawn by the lioness's prey and settling upon the acacia-bushes all round, attracteel my steps to the place, where the lioness had taken up her position in the early morning under the shade of a bush. But by the time I hael got within two hundred paces she hael taken cover and hael made off over the side of the hill. In very similar circumstances I happened once upon a lion anel two lionesses in high grass, also without being able to fire a shot. On another occasion I followed a lion-trail. The: lion had killeel a young ze:bra eluring the night, and had dragged it a long way e>ve:r the velt to one of those: rivulet-beds that dry up after the rainy sease^n, the:re to elevcuir it at 382 -»> More Lion-Hunting Experiences leisure. I had followed the tracks tor SOUK; time, and was looking (or a good way down into the gorge, when suddenly I saw the animal a lioness it proved to be- in the distance. In another moment it had disappeared. Late: in the afternoon, one day in December 1900, coming back from a fruitless search after elephants, 1 observed a probable that the animal, unless mortally wounded, uo'ild come for me. Only with lead-tipped bullets can you hope to effect a mortal wound under such conditions? \Younded lions AYith Flashlight and Rifle * are apt to be dangerous. Hut this time 1 was in luck ; fifty paces away the lioness lay dead, killed by the neatest snap-shot that i ever achieved, right through the shoulder. The male lion, which the Wandorobo had seen at the same time, had unfortunately disappeared in the meantime. My taxidermist, who came up now with my men, and whom 1 now told of my success, went searching all over the place for the body. His delight was almost as great as my own when at last he saw the beautiful lioness stretched out before him. By way of contrast to these experiences of mine, I shall quote here the description of a lion-hunt which took place in the year 1813, from the pen of John Campbell. Those were the times in which elephants, rhinoceroses, and giraffes were still to be found in those regions in South- o o West Africa now belonging to Germany, before the numbers of all the other wild animals had begun to be thinned. In those days the sentries on the ramparts of Cape Town were still treated to nocturnal concerts by the lions. In South Africa lions were still numerous at this time, and in the neighbourhood of Graaf Reynet this John Campbell, a clergyman in the service of an English missionary society, met two lions one day in the course of his travels. Here, in his own words, the quaint simplicity of which I leave absolutely unaltered, is his description of how he killed one of them. "When approaching a fountain of water, where we intended to halt, two of the; horsemen came galloping towards our wagons, on which my wagon-driver told me they had seen a lion. On reaching us they informed us 186 --* More Lion-Hunting I Experiences that t\vo lions were crouching among the reeds below. All' the wagons immediately drew up on an ascent opposite the place where they lay, with their \\heels firmly chained, lest the roaring or appearing ot the lions should territy the oxen and make them run otf with the wagons, which frequently happens on such occasions. Thirteen men then drew up, about fifty yards from the lions, with their loaded muskets; and such as were only to be spectators stool upon a heap ot rocks, about titty yards beyond them, guarded by three armed men. lest the lions should not be wounded, or only slightly, and be able to rush upon us. \\hen all this was in readiness. the men below poured a valley ot bullets towards the animals, when one ot them, the male, mac slihtl wounded: but the other uas disab led, so that it \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -+ remained in the same position. The dogs ran towards her, making a great noise, but ventured no nearer than five or six yards. On the second fire she was shot dead. A bullet was found under the skin, which she must have received long before, as the wound was completely healed. She had received many wounds from our people, especially a severe one in the mouth." Thus was carried out a lion-hunt in South Africa a hundred years ago. Elsewhere the missionary enlarged frequently on the habits and customs of lions — from hearsay, naturally — and states, amongst other things, that a lion will carry away an ox upon his back and a sheep in his mouth. He bases this statement upon the difference in the weights of the two animals. If it must be admitted that the killing of lions in those days, with the primitive guns then in use, was a much more dangerous undertaking than it is in these days of perfected rifles, there is yet no reason to be surprised that these animals were so quickly exterminated wherever the colonists settled down. We have a picture presented to us here of a body of Europeans with about thirteen muskets setting out cautiously upon their warlike enter- prise. How tar less courage is involved in this kind of thing than in the hunting of lions with sword and spear, as was the custom of the natives in those days. The lion's knell had sounded already then. Xow he is disappearing quickly. Fere Guilleme, a missionary, who was stationed for many years at Tanganyika, tells me- that the "white fathers" there have: killed thirty-seven lions in the course of" only four years — for the most part by the -* More Lion-Hunting Experiences use of strychnine;, with which they have poisoned the remains of animals killed by lions. In 1900 I had an encounter with three lions, which might easily have: proved fatal to me. After a march of nearly ten hours in the driest season, my caravan had come to the foot of a hill and my tired men had pitched camp. Following the course: ot a stream, I went out tor a short walk round the camp, armed, contrary to my usual custom, with only a fowling-piece. A number ot bald fruit-pigeons (I'iiiago calra nudirostris] presently caught my attention, and I went after several, which were perched upon the branches of a lot ot truit-trees in the thick brushwood ot" the river-banks. Thus occupied I had strayed about a thousand paces from the camp, which was now out ot" sight. The pigeons were very shy. Suddenly I came upon the tracks ot several lions. Almost involuntarily I followed these tor a couple ot hundred yards or so, and was just about to make my way down into the dried-up bed of a freshet, which acts as a tributary to the stream in the rainy season, when I became conscious of a shadow to my left. Turning round. 1 beheld a lioness twenty-live paces oft, eyeing me quietly. She stood in a small glade in the thorn-thicket, and 1 concluded that she had made a resting-place tor herself among the dense green grass by the side of the stream. Almost simul- taneously 1 saw, six or eight paces Irom her. two other lions moving forward, halt covered by the grass. All three formed a most impressive sight, witnessed thus from so near. 1'or several seconds neither 1 nor the lions made a move I bitterl rerettin that I had brought onl m With Flashlight and Rifle -* fowling-piece, loaded with Xo. 8 cartridges, the only cart- ridges 1 had with me. Hut the lioness presently turned away from me quite calmly, took several steps along the border of the gorge, and then disappeared suddenly among the bushes. The others disappeared simultaneously. I waited motionless for a minute where I was, then hastened back to the camp to equip myself properly for a pursuit, when on returning I found that the tracks of the lioness could not be made out. I at once erected a trap for her, tying up a white steer as a bait. Shortly after ten o'clock that night I heard an angry roar, and early the next morning I found a large lion with a heavy mane caught in the trap, which he had dragged away into the thorn-thicket several hundred yards. He had not hurt himself in the least with the chain or iron. While I was taking a photograph of him he made a startlingly quick and determined rush at me, in spite of his encumbrances ; but I brought him down with a single shot. Xext night two lionesses were entrapped. And as after this good haul no other lions were to be seen or heard near the stream, 1 concluded that these must have been the three lions I had met. Here I may observe that lions and all other cats scarcely injure themselves at all when caught by the paw in these traps, unlike hya-nas, jackals, foxes, and other animals. I attribute this to the comparatively quiet bearing of the cat tribe- when they find themselves in such difficulties. I have said that lions are not often to be met with by daylight in the; wilderness ; but there have been other occasions, of course;, during my years in Africa, when 390 <+> More Lion-Hunting Experiences their unexpected appearance, has put me in a tight corner. One lioness 1 can still see standing a few paces away from me, outlined clearly against the dun-coloured, sun-scorched velt, her yellow eyes gleaming as they watch me. But the traveller may have: to wait years and years tor such an experience. Among sportsmen who have been luckv in this respect may he mentioned Duke Adolf Fried- rich von Mecklenburg, who shot a fine lion on his very first hunt in German Fast Africa. This is a record feat. Xever shall I torget the exciting hours 1 spent one day in i Hgg following up the: tracks of a party ot no less than fourteen lions. Five hours it took me to get within sight of them, in a thorn}' jungle: with an undergrowth of bowstring hemp. I had never come across so large a party before. The1 tracks ot their might}- paws stood out clearly in the line dust e>t the velt. There' is an extraordinary fascination in following up tracks of wild animals in this way. more or less hap- ha/arel. As you move forward your imagination goes ahead ot you, picturing in a hundred different fashions the: way in which you will at last come upon your quarry. In this case perhaps it was |ust as well tor me the lions became aware ot me as they lay in the shade ot some acacia-trees, )ust as 1 was scrambling up a hill, and in a moment they had all disappeared \\lleil 1 got to tile spot where- tile}' had been lyill^'. I was just m time- to catch a List glimpse ot them disappear- ing into a thicket at the bottom ot the hill. A strong smell ot lions was there to reinforce the tracks and prove to my senses that 1 was not the victim ot an illusion. Such With Flashlight and Rifle -* experiences are' exasperating to the hunter, but it is some- thing for the mere observer to have had the monopoly of so wonderful a spectacle. The same kind of thing, on a lesser scale, happened to me often in East Africa. I was particularly unlucky on one occasion when I encountered the finest and oldest lion I have ever seen. It was while I was stalking waterbuck that he came into sight. Half-hidden as he was in the bush, I could not at first make out what kind of animal he was. In another second he came into full view, only to turn round immediately and make off. My bullet was too late ; but a scanty streak of blood showed me that it had not completely missed him. Great were my annoyance and disappointment about a fort- night later to learn that the remains of a large-maned lion had been found near this spot. They were lying in so dense a thicket that even the vultures had not been able to get at him. The Mesh had been completely devoured by maggots ; but from the extraordinary number of long hairs I could see that it must have had .a wonderful mane, almost black. However, I got possession of its mighty skull, from which some teeth were missing, proving that it must have been of considerable age. I cannot say abso- lutely that this must have been the lion at which I had shot, but it certainly seems most probable. Among the thirty-seven lions which I caught by means of the iron trap manufactured by R. Weber, there were several strong, old specimens which had dragged away the traps for several miles. The killing ot them entailed very difficult and dangerous pursuits, as in these circum- stances thev almost alwavs made for cover. VOL. II. -•> More Lion-Hunting Experiences Among my donkeys and cattle there was always some animal available as bait tor the lions, owing to the ravages of the tsetse-fly. XYhen erne of them had been attacked by this scourge, instant eleath from a bite: by a liem was a real release from the lingering agony of eleath by blood- poisoning. Often the lions woulel have se> covered themselves over with reeels ami grass that even at a distance: e>f ten paces I could hardly make: them out, and had te) climb a tree- to get a shot at them. My most notable: exploit, as regards the capturing of lions, was the bagging of a part}' of nine-, consisting ot" three- old lionesses and six othe:rs. e)t which tour we-re full-grown young ones. Three hael appeared one night, tour the: next, ami the following night the: last two. This was the: only time: I have: knenvn an ejlel lioness to be te-mpte-el successfully by a goat. I had, ho\\e:ve:r, so placed the: trap ami the: goat that the: lioness, so sejon as she had sei/ed the latter. was able to ge:t off unhurt, and make her way again into a seelgy swamp harel by. There: she kept so quiet that one ot my me-n wandering past stiYk in hand, ignorant of his elanger, almost knoe'ked up igainst her. I'ortunately he escaped. He took to his heels and never stopped until he got sate bae'k to camp. It is astonishing how quickly lions, and e:ven leopards and hya^nas, are able to drag these heavy traps, which weigh about thirty kilograms, ami which have anchors stuck in the ground. Some branches ot the \\anyamwesi people an- ver\ tond ot lion-ilesh tor food. The}' believe that it makes them strong and brave ; the}' are particularly tond ot the tat parts. The nine linns With Flashlight and Rifle * taken by me in the three nights all made their way into the stomachs of my \Yanyamwesi, although their chief man declared to me, when the seventh lion was finished, that he thought he would like some other sort of vension for a change ! A new case of toujonrs pcrdnx \ We brought away with us in gourds, however, a supply of the surplus fat from the lions, and it served for quite a long time as a much relished delicacy. Almost on the same spot where I had killed the nine lions, I tried a year later to get hold of an old lioness accompanied by several small cubs ; judging by the tracks on three successive nights, the whole family visited the neighbourhood of my traps without, however,, paying any attention to the bait. It was long my keen desire to bring back to Europe a full-grown lion alive, and the Berlin Zoological Gardens had been good enough to place at my disposal for this purpose several transportable cases, capable ot being taken to pieces ; however, the impossibility of getting bearers to carry an iron chest itself weighing 500 Ib. all the way from the wilderness to the coast, obliged me; to give up all hope of this. Since the days of the Romans this feat has never been achieved. All the lions that have been brought to Europe have been caught young, and have been brought up in captivity, including the so-called forest-bred lions and those presented as gifts by Oriental rulers. So far as I know, we are without information as to the means by which the ancients got possession of the great number of lions which made their appearance in the arena. Hundreds of lions were sometimes killed in the arena in a single show,, though a good many of these may have been young ones. 396 XX Leopards TI I K leopard undoubtedly plays the principal role among all the; beasts ot prey to be found in East Africa. Unlike the- lion, he is to be found every- where. 'I he colouring of the leopard, so distinct and conspicuous when seen in a cage, blends so curiously with the animal's natural surroundings as to become almost imperceptible. So much so that, even by day, he is able to pass close to you without being observed. Leopards have no special predilection lor settled haunts, though they are chiefly to be found in rocky mountain-passes where there is plenty of cover. They arc' fine climbers, and often pass the day in the airy and shady heights of a tree-top. 1 know of a case ot a leopard springing upon a negro, who was up a mango- tret-, and killing him instantly with a bite on the throat ; and I have: heard ot several other such occurrences. It is difficult to give an idea of the lightning speed VOL. ii. 397 3 With Flashlight and Rifle -* with which leopards move, either when attacking or in full flight. Curious 'to relate, although these animals are so common, I find, from my diary, that I only met them at close quarters twelve times — not counting the numbers I have trapped. These encounters were always sudden and unforeseen. Of peculiar interest was an encounter I had with a leopard near the town of Pangani, on the very clay of my setting out on my great expedition of 1899. Ac- companied by only one man, I had returned to the town to obtain some more reserve carriers. At the head of these I was hurrying in the evening back to my camp, when I suddenly became aware of the continuous shrieking of a troop of baboons. From the cries and shrieks of the apes I concluded that a leopard had chased them, and, as some old and large male baboons peered from a monkey-bread-tree into the underwood close to our path, with signs of rage and cries of alarm, I attempted to get nearer, my gun ready in my hand. The underwood was almost impenetrable, and it seemed to me as if the leopard must be busy tearing a baboon to pieces under a baobab-tree. After a few steps in the direction of the monkeys, I heard something make off in the jungle, and at the same time the baboons clambered after it, whatever it was, screaming and chattering, up in the safe altitudes ot the tree-tops. As the thicket grew less dense I was able to get along more quickly, and, just as I was descending a glen, I noticed to the left, some thirty paces off, a powerful leopard, which had killed a young baboon, and •* Leopards was dragging it along by the neck. The animal noticed me the moment that 1, hindered In some branches. lifted up my ritle to shoot, and it disappeared with a lightning-like flash, leaving the monkey behind. The whole troop ot them followed him high up in the branches. Unfortunately I had to make up tor lost time and to hurry back to camp, and so was unable to seek out the leopard and to kill him. Very likely the " chui was opportunely chased and devoured by lions ; I know that this happened in two other such cases. 1 have several times come in contact with leopards in various parts of the velt, especially when 1 have approached their haunts, which, during the midday hour, are generally in the; tall grass. Once 1 nearly irod on a leopard. It was out in the open, and he slipped out from between some bushes so suddenly that I involuntarily started back. I missed my first shot at him. and although my second wounded him 1 did not bring him down. To shoot a leopard in full flight with a rifle is a most difficult teat. \ ou have reason to rejoice it you miss completely, and do not merely gra/e him, tor a wounded leopard is a most dangerous opponent. At first I could not forbear shooting at a leopard whenever I came upon one, but 1 learnt by experience to become more cautious. How dangerous a leopard can be \\a> brought home to me by one experience I had. I hail discovered a track in the sand made by a leopard trailing seme booty after him. Cautiously I approached a gully made by the rain to which the track led me. I had .soon made the circuit 401 With Flashlight and Rifle •-* of this, and ascertained that the animal could not yet have left it. Then suddenly I spotted the leopard, who was lying on top of a small antelope under the root of a tree which had been washed down by the rain, Man and beast espied each other at the same moment. Serpent-like the leopard crept, leaving his prey in the recess, to a corner of the gully, intending to take flight ! Quick as lightning I fired, but aimed too far back and •~^f d> O only wounded him. Almost at the same moment the shouts of my people, who had stayed behind at the entrance to the gully, told me that they had seen the leopard. The animal was bleeding profusely. Cautiously, step by step, 1 crept after him, until I saw him crouching ao'ain where I had fired at him first, and halt hidden o by some roots. The distance between us was about five-and-twenty paces. The sides ot the gully were steep and hard to climb. The moment I raised my rifle again to shoot, the leopard sprang towards me. The next instant he seemed to touch me ! Then in another instant he was gone. He had sprung right back again and disappeared in the gully ! It had all happened in the traction of a second, and I had not time to fire again. It must have been the way we involuntarily drew back — I and the two men who were with me — that caused the beast suddenly to take to flight. I shall never forget this situation, nor the sharp, short snarls uttered by the leopard. Afterwards I tound several drops of blood in the sand, only a tew inches from where I had stood, and my gaiters also were be- 402 -* Leopards spattered — a proof of ho\v close the animal had been. A few minutes later I came upon the leopard again, and this time a well-placed bullet did tor him. Hut I attribute this to good luck rather than to my own skill. Such attacks by leopards may easily terminate fatally. Mr. Hall, my host in Fort Smith at Kikuyu, related to me. among other stories, the evening before; I shot my three lions in that vicinity, that whilst hunting antelopes near the; Xayasha Lake he met with a mishap because; he had incautiously shot at a " chui." He was only convalescent at the; time;, in (act just risen from a sick- bed (after an unlucky encounter with a rhinoceros), and was hunting again for the first time, accompanied by an Askan. when he went after some impallas. A leopard had the same end in view, but was speedily shot at by Mr. Hall. Quick as lightning the beast sprang" on the hunter and hugged him tight : undoubtedly the leopard would have killed him, had not the Askan shot the animal while actually on his master. Mr. Hall was injured tor a very long time and was permanently lamed, the sinews ot one leg being torn. On two other occasions 1 have been attacked by wounded leopards, but happily I was able to kill the enraged beasts in time. 1 can only advise the greatest caution when hunting these animals. The natives declare that leopards have a pronounced taste tor human tlesh. like the man-eating tigers ot India. 1 have not been able to obtain positive evidence ot the truth ot this. but 1 will not deny that certain old leopards distinguish 403 With Flashlight and Rifle -+> themselves in this direction ! On occasions, certainly, leopards attack men in a very desperate manner. A very remarkable case was related to me by Herr von Gordon, who, in the company of his brother and the late Herr von Tippelskirch, met with the following ex- perience in German East Africa. They were sitting smoking by the camp-fire, when suddenly a little fox- terrier running about near them gave out a feeble yap and disappeared ! Like a flash a leopard had seized it from its master's feet. A general hue-ancl-cry led to nothing. The dog was lost. The astonishing part of the story, however, is that next evening the very same leopard stole a negress from the camp, but let her fall about eighty paces away. The previous experience had made every one more ready with their arms, and a quick fire had frightened the animal so that he had let fall his unfortunate prey — but dead from a bite on the throat. The chief food of leopards consists usually of apes and small antelopes and gazelles. In mountain woods they prey upon badgers, in rocky districts upon rock- badgers. The night-cries of the impallas and bush- bucks, and especially the weird shrieks of the baboons, herding in high trees, are caused, to my thinking, by the sudden attacks of leopards. At night time attacks on the sleeping apes are more practicable, tor a full-grown male baboon when awake is no despicable foe. 'I he teeth of such an ape are longer than those of the leopard. I he character of the leopard is a remarkable contrast to that of the lion. He is notable for his savageness, even 404 -* Leopards when quite young. Ye)ung leopards we;re brought to me in the month of February ; and in Zanzibar I obtained at the same time two cubs, which I brought with me to Europe. The call of the leopard is a peculiar, snarling, mewing, characteristically cat-like cry, and is often to be heard at evening and during the night ; I have sometimes heard it in the; afternoon. Many authors declare; that leopards seldom, if ever, touch a carcase; as their prey, but rather seek some live animal to drink its blood. 1 have met with no evidence in proof of this statement, so often made as if from personal observation. As a matter of fact, I have caught about forty leopards, and they were almost all secured by traps skilfully baited with dead game, whereas traps which were on certain occasions baited with live goats attracted the leopards less than the others. 1 have, learnt, too, that my method of capture; berame; much appreciated in Fast Africa alter I had obtained such e-\ce;lle;nt re-suits. Naturally many hundreds of my evirrie-rs have; give-n descriptions of it all ove-r the; country. 1'or two reasons these- results which 1 obtained are perfectly comprehensible. I'irstly leopards, according to several observations I have- made, an; accustomed to hang up the- n.-mnants ol then" prey on the; branches ot trees or bushe-s, some;time-s quite high up. alter they have; devoured the he-art and liver and buried the- entrails. In this way the- leopard unquestionably helps .mother of his kind to a meal that he has not been able to obtain tor himself. In consequent- ot this habit the attention 407 With Flashliht and Rifle ~ of the leopard is drawn to any remains of tlesh that he may happen to find. Leopards are endowed with a good share of slyness and cunning — qualities which often make them avoid the snares laid tor them. A well-set trap, baited with carcase, arouses their suspicion less than a wooden trap provided with a live goat. When I caught a leopard in an iron trap I was almost sure to get his mate a night or two after. I have caught and shot male leopards that weighed 145 Ib. ; the females weigh considerably less. The leopard is a most dangerous animal when ensnared. It is an indication of his savage nature that on the approach of man he always tries to get as near as possible, raging, growling, and snarling the while. Should he manage to free himself from the iron, he is sure to make a violent attack on any one near. He climbs up the tree as far as the chains of the snare will allow. One morning I was informed that a leopard had been caught in a small trap which Orgeich, my taxidermist, had set the night before. " It is well set," he said briefly, " he will be caught fast ! " This assurance strengthened my belief that the trap, as usual, had been fastened on to a tree- trunk by means of a chain. My belief soon proved to be an error. As I approached the place where the trap had been set, a little bushy spot in the Pori, I saw the leopard making tor me some hundred and fifty paces off, trailing after him quite easily the iron chain and a wooden stake attached. This all happened so quickly that I had barely time to spring behind a little thorn-bush, whence I killed the enraged beast with a \\ell-aimed shot. 408 -•> Leopards Another time, at the be^innino1 of my severe illness in 1902, on the hanks ot the: Pangani River, an old and very powerful leopard had taken (light with the trap and urannel and gone some distance in the sedge-grass, where 0 i ** o o 1 found him alter following his track for some time. The reedy swamp, then dried up, was almost impassable, and it seemed marvellous to me how the animal, hampered with trap, chain, and staple, was able to get there at all. At each step we expected to come upon the leopard. \Ye that is, Captain Merker and myself — followed the track of the trap, in company with some blacks. ( )ur companions soon found the situation unbearable, and only the trustiest of them remained with us. ( )n we went in the seething heat, carefully looking round us, and poking in the thick undergrowth with long poles from time: to time. Suddenly a snarling and a clanking of chains were distinctly heard. Xow was the time ! Mean- while we two ll \Yasungu (Europeans) pushed our way cautiously in the marsh. Now and again we heard the ominous snarl — the clank of the chain. I he ground being so exceedingly dry it was impossible to make out a track ; we thought lor some time that it was not with a full-grown leopard that we had to do. \Ye pushed forward further and further. SuddenK a deep growl made the natives take to their heels, calling o-.it that they had clearly seen the head of a male ion ' They stuck to their assertion. Slowly we sought, inch by inch, to find a freer outlook in the marsh, by beating down the reeds with our poles; Captain Merker and 1, holding our rillcs well up and expecting to see the beast 41 i \Yith Flashlight and Rifle ^ of prey appear at every moment or rustle ! Hut, wonderful to relate, in spite of the continuous snarling we found it impossible to locate the exact spot where the beast was hiding, and could get no further on account of the increasing o o o thickness of the reeds. So we decided to fire several shots in the unexplored direction to kill the supposed lion. As appeared later the leopard was well hidden in a hippopotamus-haunt. I cannot say how much ammunition we had to expend. At last one of us must have managed to give the leopard his death-wound, judging by the silence which followed. Even then it was quite a long time before we managed to make our way inch by inch to the dead beast, when we saw a fine specimen of an old male leopard. In the Masai district hunting-leopards (Cyiicclnrus guttatus) are very rare, and I have only seen two individuals, and then learnt nothing about them. Hut the " chui " of the Waswahili, the " ol ugaru (jeri " of the o o Masai, and the " mellila " of the Wandorobo is to be found in countless thousands nightly throughout the Xyika. He will long survive the last lion. 412 I'KIXCI. I i >\\ I-.N-- I !•;! N l'>K!) In I'\KK I ! I > -l!\kl. (P|- III], \\<>KK "\' I'HKI'AKINO XXI The Hyaena-Dog, the Lynx, the Wild Cat, and the Otter Till-, sio'ht ot a pack ot hyama-doo's {I. \caou pictut) after their prey is one not easily forgotten. I;or the most part I have hantish Kast Africa. All kinds of L^'ame, even the strongest antelopes, tall VOL. ii. 413 4 With Flashlight and Rifle * a prey to these hysena-dogs. Close to the railway-station at Korogwe I once saw them after a waterbuck, which, however, was shot by an official of the line before they could get at it. On another occasion I saw a herd of fourteen hvrena-dogs hunting the gigantic eland, and I ' O O O J""> have seen them after small antelopes as well. In the year 1899 I had been following for nearly four hours the blood-tracks of a bull eland that I had shot, when, suddenly, still hastening forward, I saw to one side of me a troop of hya;na-dogs taking their noon- tide siesta under the shade of an acacia. The moment they saw me they slid off in all directions with their tails between their legs. Then they reassembled, halting for a moment in their flight and barking at me in strangely high-pitched tones — they were regular dog-like barks. With their ears pointed they came forward now like tame dogs in my direction until they got to within five-and- twenty yards, when they took to flight again to one side, and the whole game began afresh. I was so engrossed in this rare sight that 1 did not shoot, but remained (juietly crouching with my men. This encouraged the dogs to come nearer. This settled for me, the question as to whether or not hyaena-dogs attack men. The natives say they often go for unarmed men. I do not know how long this might have gone on, but after about ten minutes the; clogs seemed to have satisfied their curiosity, and some disappeared in the dry grass. I thought it time now to bring down two specimens with a double shot, whereat all the others took to flight. 414 -* The Hyaena-Dog J. (i. Millais ' speaks of the " L(ood old days" in South Africa, when a well-mounted man of average weight could 1)riiiL( down a swift roan antelope- {Hippotragns equiuns] after a chase; of tour miles, a waterhuck after a chase of three miles, and an old kudu hull alter a chase of two. These animals can have very little chance of escape, therefore, when chased l>y h\ a-na-do^s. \Yith Flashlight and Rifle * Hyajna-dogs, besides attacking the prey they actually sight, are given to following up tracks. They have a peculiar way of biting at the stomach of the pursued animal and tearing out the entrails. In this way they overpower even large antelopes. Twice I have observed them do this, and English authors as well as natives bear out what I say. The extraordinarily bright colouring of hyaena-dogs is toned down when seen from a distance. They look then uniformly dark and stand out conspicuously from their surroundings. There is not so much need for their coats to harmonise with the surroundings, as they do not seize their prey by stealth, but follow their tracks and chase them in hot pursuit. I once found five hyaena-dogs, and on another occasion two, resting in the shade at midday ; another time I came upon a herd just as they were devouring a gerenuk-gazelle. On the whole they seem, as already stated, not to be very common in the Masai country, and my own observa- tions lead me to the conclusion that they are not so harmful as people make out. I consider it a great mistake to make scapegoats of the so-called "harmful" animals. The colonist does not realise that he cannot exterminate these without affecting the supply of other kinds of animals which are of value to him. When we make: our way into new countries we have to consider the fauna as a whole. By destroying certain animals that seem to us ob- jectionable, we may injure all the others. The expert in these matters: knows how our wild lite at home is apt 418 The Hyaena-Dog to suffer, from undue regard for the weak and persistent pursuit of the strong. Hyajna-dogs kc-pt in captivity are extraordinarily savage, yet show a decided predilection tor domesticated dogs. The idea that it would be possible to produce- a useful hound for the tropics by the crossing ot such heterogeneous animals is hardly to be taken seriously, apart from the improbability ot such a crossing being effected. The sight of a troop of hya-na-dogs in lull chase made me long tor a good hunter! 421 With Flashlight and Rifle Among the other small animals ot prey in East Africa we find some beautiful wild cats and lynxes. Among the cat tribe the serval (Fe/is serial} is much more common than the leopard. It is a long-limbed kind of cat, with black spots on a yellow ground, which frequents the bushes. The serval is an animal of nocturnal habits. 1 often managed to secure specimens in traps, but HUXDRKDS OF VUI.TTRKS AND SOMK MARAIJOUS AND JACKALS only occasionally did I happen upon one by day. It was long before I succeeded in catching a perfectly black specimen. On the occasions of my numerous elephant-hunts to the west of Kilimanjaro 1 came upon a very shy black cat at a certain spot continually. It was at a point on the high velt at a height of about 7,000 feet. While waiting for the elephants to make their appearance 422 * The Wild Cat in the wooded ravines below, I had many opportunities of watching her springing nimbly over the dense undergrowth, as she made her escape', but I could never ge;t a shot at her. I had traps set tor her, but without the desired effect, for it was only spotted hya-nas that were caught nightly. One morning, however, my taxidermist came to me with the joyful news : " A black scrval has been caught." And with these words he held out before me a wonderful black female cat, on whose coat marks still blacker in shade were clearly perceptible. This, it would seem, is characteristic of these black servals, as it is of the- blackish genet already referred to. I have noticed something of the same kind with dapple-grey horses. Xext morning I caught another serval, a male-, normally coloured —evidently the mate of" the black female; -in the same snare. The catching of this serval was a very satisfactory outcome; ot long days ot watching and waiting. Hour after hour I hael sat se'annmg the great lonely mountain through my field-glasses, on the; look-out lor signs ot animal lite, with no break in the monotonous silence but the mournful e-ry of the great grey shrike, or the tlutter- ing by ot" mating pigeons (Co/iiniba ar<]itatn.\-\, or the momentary appearane'e; ol a black lynx. or. more rarely, of the grey wild cat (/v//.v lihvca ). a long-tailed and very timid species, more usually found on the plains. 1 got hold ol tour specimens ot this animal. It is singularly like; oui" domestic cat, both in appearance and manner ot lite. The caracal ^Clinical iinbicns}, an Last Atncan speues ol lynx, I also came upon. With Flashlight ^nd Rifle * Once when I was after some dwarf antelopes (Madoqiia kirki] a small lynx came close to me, evidently intent on the same quarry. This gave me an excellent opportunity of observing its habits, and I was able to kill it as a valuable addition to my collection. Another lynx came quite close to me when I was after some ostriches, and gave me an opportunity of bringing oft" rather a remarkable double shot. The: ostriches — sixty-four of them — had been near my camp for some days, but as they were moulting I had left them alone. However, I decided to shoot one of them for the collection of the Royal Museum at Berlin. It was not easy to get near it, but at last I brought it down at a distance of about two hundred paces. Then it was that the lynx came in sight, and with my second bullet I bagged it. The desert lynx is not to be met with so often in East Africa, 1 think, as in the north and south. The: genets remain in hiding by daylight, anel are often caught in traps. I once killeel one which had sought refuge under the gable of a roof at Moshi. Generally speaking, the sportsman seldom comes across these smaller beasts of prey — such as gene:ts, honey- baelgers, ichneumons, e:tc. — in the davtime. I mvself came- o -1 ^ upon an otter only once, though I found that the: natives living by Lake Victoria possessed skins of them. So it is at home. I remember that I very seldom saw these animals in daylight, anel then only for a moment, when in my boyhood I followed their tracks ejver the Eifel Mountains on my father's estate:. 426 XXII The Ant'Bear, the Porcupine, the Wild Boar, and smaller Mammals T!IFJ\K are strange dwellers on the velt, which the hunter is not likely to come across unless he is exceptionally lucky, or unless he j^oes to threat trnible in ferreting them out of their burrows. Amonj^ these are the ant-hear ((~>rvc/crof>/is iccrt/icri} and the ] lorcupine ( )ne of the greatest authorities iijton the African fauna, Mr. Jackson, though constantly on the look-out tor porcu- pines during his ten years residence in Last Africa, never once came upon one out in the open. I he porcupine is nocturnal in its habits, and spends the da\ in Us burrow. I have never seen it at lar^e. though 1 lia\c picked up hundreds of dropped <|mlls. .\ati\es ha\-e brought me specimens ot the animal, which they have Drubbed out of their burrows. 4-7 With Flashlight and Rifle * The ant-bear, a strange-looking animal with long snout and long tail and very strong sharp claws, makes a practice during the wet season of destroying the large ant-hills to be seen everywhere on the velt, in order to feed upon the milliards ot white ants thus rendered homeless. Stretch- ing out its long thin tongue, it licks them up in hundreds. Professor Matschie says of the ant-bear that it is a marvellous creature, possessing the snout of a pig, the head of an ant-eater, the ears of an ass, the legs of an armadillo, and the body of a kangaroo. A photograph of the ant- bear by night in the act of destroying the ant-hills in the Masai-Xyika country would be something worth trying for. It would, however, be a very troublesome undertaking — I myself was unable to attempt it. I he ant-bear lives in large deep burrows which you see in hundreds on the velt. Whilst hunting other game I have, dozens of times, fallen into these holes waist-deep when the velt was covered with grass. It would be useless to set traps in these holes in the dry season, or to attempt to get the animals out. During the drought they seem to have a winter sleep. The natives are sometimes able to get hold ot ant- bears, and it was thus I was enabled to send some skins rind skeletons to Germany. The Royal Museum ot Natural History in Berlin had at the time only two or three specimens of the species, including one which had been presented by Captain \Yaldemar \Yerther, and to which his name has been attached. Only twice on the velt did I meet the beautiful black-and-white honey-badger or ratel (Mcllii'ora rale/}, 428 -* 'I he Honey-Badger and Ichneumon which, leading ;is it does, ;i nocturnal existence, is very seldom seen by man. The honey-badger has a predilection for flesh, and on this account is often trapped. Its vitality is quite extraordinary, and surpasses that of our own badger. Some; years ago I surprised an old honey-badger with a very small young one on the velt, and was able to catch both. \o\v and again you may get a glimpse of the long- eared fox (Otocyon mega/olis), a curiously graceful animal with very long drooping ears, as it takes to flight almost from under your feet. \ on are apt to tread on their flat burrows, which lie just under the surface of the ground. I hese animals live almost entirely on insects; the stomachs of those I killed were lull of beetles. In the month of Inly I found no less than ten full-grown specimens of this animal in one burrow. Kvery traveller on the, velt must have some time or other come across that elegant marten-like animal the ichneumon. ( )1 many kinds, and varying in si/e from that of a large weasel to that of a cat, they sometimes take up their abode in deserted ant-hills, in which also squirrels are sometimes to be found. Ichneumons move about over the velt in parties seek- ing tor prey. They eat anything that they can get hold of, animal or vegetable. Insinuating their wax through the grass, packed closely together in a long unduLtmg ////<• tic , they look in the distance like monstrous snakes. Now and again, as they move along, one ot them will raise its head like a marmot and look round. I hen all the others will follow its example, and with a clear cry ot alarm the\ \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* scurry back to their nearest hiding-place. Should this be an ant-hill, and we have the patience to wait an hour or two in hiding, we shall first see one little head, then several, peer out of the holes of their clay fortress, which soon is alive again with their activity. Now playing and romping, now assuring themselves of their safety, the little sprites run round and round the ant-hill. Squirrels behave in a similar way, though not in large numbers — alone always, or in pairs. Sometimes ichneumons are found in company with rock-badgers (Procaria] which, in like manner, often take up their abode in ant-hills. More frequently, how- ever, they are to be found in the rocky districts of the hills, high up or low down, according to the season of the year. These animals, as well as the tree-badgers, which dwell chiefly in forests, and especially in mountain forests, are closely allied to the rhinoceroses, a fact which is hardly credible at first sight. In German East Africa there are three kinds of rock-badgers (Pro- cavia johnstoni, Pr. mossambica, and Pr. uiatsc/iiet), and two kinds of tree-badgers {DcndroJiyra.v validity, and D. neunianiii}, curious, tiny, flat-footed animals. 1 hey are very like marmots in their ways, and the old experienced rock-badgers especially are not easy to ensnare. The tree-badgers have a quaint, scolding kind of cry. Hardly has the sun gone down and the camp-fires been lit when we suddenly hear above our heads in the great forest a rustling, a peculiar chuckling and mewing 432 * 'I lie Tree-Badger of the tiny creatures there. Like elves these tree- badgers play about on the trunks of the trees, and the whole night they are coming and going over our heads. I have heard them, too, in wooded ravines on the plains, when 1 have- been after elephants. In the branches of leafy trees they could be heard the whole night, their cries mingling with that of a cuckoo (Cent r opus supcrciliosus] that often uttered its call in the early morning hours. " Tippu-tippu " the coast-people call this cuckoo. Tree-badgers are often visible by daylight. You may be making your way into the gloomy recesses of the forest, where- the thick foliage shuts out the light <>t day, and the whole place seems void of any sign of animal lite. Suddenly a shrill cry of warning seems to rise from the red-tooted francolin at your feet, and, terrified by its own cry, the rabbit-like little creatures run skilfully up the lumper and other high trees, to quickly disappear in the holes and crannies of the branches. I hese are the tree-badgers, the /V/i'/r of the natives, the fur of" which is made into coats and is much pri/ed by the I'.uropeans, who have lateh taken to exporting it. The natives catch the /V/V'/V.s in snares, and immense numbers ot these little beasts have been taken of late years. The pursuit of the tree-badger is carried on \\ith great /est, like that ot" the Mega monke\ . so that the animal is rapidly decreasing in numbers. The hut-tax imposed on tin; natives has the effect ot inciting them to a much reater destruction ot" the animals than the \\ould under \Yith Flashlight and Rifle <••> take of their own accord, as they can raise money by selling the skins to the trader. Immense quantities of skins find their way now to the trade-centres. In Aden and Marseilles, for instance, thousands and thousands of antelope-skins are sometimes to be found. It is an open secret that the greater number of these skins are procured by armed native hunters for the agents of European firms. The British Government has long hampered the once thriving trade in antelope- hides, by a very severe tax on the steamers running to Aden, and this seems to be the only means of protecting game. Even so, hundreds of thousands of antelope- skins are exported as cow-hides ! This I have seen for myself. Formerly they used to be sent off quite openly and only tied up ; nowadays they are covered with canvas mats. The same thing happens in East Africa with smaller animals — with the peltte, for instance, and the Bega monkey. While those regions of the north ot Africa which adjoin the Mediterranean possess a species ot wild boar similar to our own in form, we find south oi the Sahara quite another kind distributed over a wide area. In the Masai country a singularly unpleasing kind is found — the wart-hog, whose name suggests that it is not very beautiful ! It has a head covered all over with warts and protuberances that give it a very grotesque and ugly appearance. A second species, the river-hog, is found more in the neighbourhood ot populous districts, and tor this reason I seldom came across it. The wart-hog, however, 434 -* The Wild Hoar is frequently found in the Kilimanjaro region, and the hig old boars afford the hunter good sport as well as fine trophies with tremendous tusks. Wild boars are very harmful in Africa, as everywhere else, in the plantations and fields, and are particularly hard to keep off the native plantations at night time. But the wart-hog is enabled, by its powerfully developed tusks, to wander over the unpeopled velt, and to find itself food by grubbing and ferreting. It is fond of flesh when it can find any. Swim; are endowed with very line: senses of hearing and smelling, but their sight is very weak. Big old boars have a deceptive resemblance to male lions when taking flight, on account of their mane, especially in the tall grass and with a bad light. More than once my carriers alarmed me with the cry that they had seen a lion taking flight when it was really a boar. One peculiarity of the wart-hog is that it frequently stays in the haunts of the ant-bear, especially during a period of great heat. One often finds several at a time; in these burrows. Wounded wart-hogs strike hard with their tusks, and great caution is necessary in hunting them. ( hving to their uniformly grev colouring they are almost indis- tinguishable from the ground of the velt. Sometimes. even in the midst of thick cover, the\ burrow ri^ht under the ground. The wild boar will survive longer than most other members of the hast .African fauna, in spite of us being hunted. Kveii in the over-populated (iermany of to-day 437 With Flashlight and Rifle -* there are plenty of black wild boars. In the fever- haunted countries ot Kast Africa they may yet dwell for many a century. Since the above lines were written, it appears that a hitherto unknown species of wild boar has been discovered —somewhat intermediate between a wart-hog and a river-ho2r. CIIAPTKk XXIII Hyenas and Jackals A A ^11 ILK the striped hya-na is rare;]}' to lie seen \ \ and is notable for its timidity, the spotted hya-na is to lie met with all over Mast Africa. In con- junction with the vultures and marabous, they act as scavengers. I hey rarely leave a mammal ot any si/e to rot. Wherever there is a dead body, whether it be of man or beast, the hya-na is always to the tore. I he animal-world ot Africa is spread over immense areas, and the animals vary their haunts, much as do the nomadic races, according to the seasons. Thus it is that hya'iias arc; to be touncl now in one region, now in another. I hev congregate in great numbers wherever then- is a famine, whether it be the result ot drought or ol war. I he larger beasts ot prey — lions and leopards, tor instance -provide a large proportion ot the hya-na s food. I he hya-na's keen scent draws him quickly to th<- spot where the huge cats have lett the remains ot their prey. Ilya-nas make away with even the largest carcases at an extraordinar rate; the can swallow immen.se \Yith Flashlight and Rifle quantities of flesh and bones, and can break bones of great thickness with their powerful teeth. Their habits are nocturnal. They do not like the heat of the sun ; young and tamed specimens are not able to stay with the caravan on the sun-scorched velt, even when they are full grown. When the sky is cloudy one sometimes sees hycenas in search ot prey in the late •RES REMAINED NEAR TIIK CAMP DAY AFTER DAY IN THE afternoon, but generally they pass their day in the shade of the bushes or in caves and under rocks. I found young ones on several occasions during the spring months. There are generally three or four in a litter. The vicinity of the fox-like earths is trodden quite flat by the young ones. Quantities of skulls and bones lie round about, and vultures sit close to the young hyaenas in the early morning hours— a sign that they 440 -* IIvR'nas and Jackals •pass the night on the trees close to the earth. I have often tonncl a number of cinereous vultures, griffon- vultures, and king-vultures forming an amicable addition to the household of the young and old hya-nas. During the day, too, I have often seen hya-nas tearing away at carcases, undisturbed by the hundreds of vultures, marabous, and jackals all around. None of these: three species had any fear of the others. All were engrossed in satisfying their hunger as fast as possible. The jackals as well as the hya-nas like to bury themselves in the stomachs of the larger mammals. As darkness drew nigh, the hya-nas would surround the camp, howling dismally ; they were not in the least afraid of visiting our premises by night to steal flesh, or even unappetising .morsels such as skins or pieces of leather. The photographs I took by night show the greed with which hya-nas pounce on a carcase. Their strength is astonishing. A spotted hya-na can easily run off with an ass, as the reader will see for himself from the accom- panying illustration. Jlohm saw them steal a human corpse and gallop off with it. I found the hya-nas timid and cautious when 1 tried to photograph them feeding by night. As Holim remarks, they keep at a distance so long as the 'hunter is within range, bait the moment he goes out of" sight, it onl\ tor a lew moments, the hya-nas are back again at tin- carcase. The}' are never taken b\ surpri.se. being possessed of very sensitive nostrils. \oung hya-nas are distinctly marked: when old they lose their marks more or less, and their colouring becomes VOL. 11. 445 o With Flashlight and Rifle -* more uniform. They are often mangy. During the Famine-year, when hyajnas feasted upon human corpses, I killed some very fat specimens. Like the European fox, the hyaena — -the " fissi " of the Waswahili, " twiti " of the Wanyamivesi, " ol egodjine" of the Masai, an " arvijet " of the Wandorobo — adapts itself to different localities and different conditions. Sometimes they are very shy, sometimes extraordinarily impudent. In some regions they are satisfied with carrion, in others they seem to crave for cattle and human tlesh. They seized a number ot my donkeys. One has most to fear from their attacks on dark, rainy nights. The reader may be surprised to hear that until 1899 one of the most disputed questions with regard to the fauna of British and German East Africa was whether there was such a thing in existence as a striped hya/na. Proressor Matschie long held the opinion, tor want of proof to the contrary, that either the aard-wolf (Protcles cristalns] was the only species to be found in these countries, or that if there was a striped species of hya/na to be met with it must be one new to zoology.1 There had been other conjectures as to the existence of the striped species, but proof was not forthcoming to such distinguished observers as Richard Bohm, Hunter, and others. Captain Waldemar Werter believed he had found a striped hyojna, but there was a doubt as to whether he had confused what he saw with the aard- wolf. Personally, I believe he did actually see a striped hyama. 1 Paul Matschie, The Mammals of (icnnaii East Africa. 446 -* Hvc'L-nas and Jackals Oscar Neumann's stay of nearly three years in German and British Mast Africa seemed to have finally •established the fact that only the spotted hya-na was to be found in those regions. He stated, however, that, according to the natives, a beast of prey similar to the hy.ena was to be found in pairs, and lived on the coast and ate fish. In the autumn of 1896 I baited a trap one evening with a heron on the banks of Lake: Natron, between Kilimanjaro and \ ictoria Xyanza. Xext morning I found a striped hya-na in the trap. Alfred Kaiser, who was well acquainted with the species on account of his four years' sojourn on Sinai, declared this animal to be identical with the one he knew in Arabia. 'I his seemed to dispose of the idea of contusion with the aard-wolf, but the' slight differences between this specimen and the striped hya-na already kno\vn were not to be discerned without adequate materials tor comparison. 'I he information I had so tar collected still left doubts in the minds of experts ; unfortunately I could not back up my theory by scientific proofs. These were still to •seek, and could not be found in British hast Africa, even by such keen observers as I;. d. Jackson, A. 11. Neumann, hord I )elamere, and others. This was reserved for tin- great lourney through Masai-land which 1 undertook tor collecting purposes in the spring of iSoo. By setting traps tor hx.rnas systematical!) I was able to procure sixty-six skins and skulls, as well as entire skeletons. Now, at last, all doubt was at an end' A letter from Professor Matschie informed me that a spotted 45' With Flashlight and Rifle * species named the Hyccna schillings! had been definitely included in the category of the animal species of East Africa known to science. What I now state clearly proves the tremendous difficulty of the investigation of an unknown fauna. You would say that such a common beast of prey as the hyojna would have come into constant contact with the sportsman, or even the non-sportsman, especially by nightly ravages, and that, above all, the natives would have known it well. In the same way so distinguished an observer as Stuhl- mann was unable, during his stay on the Semliki, to obtain information of the okapi, which later became so fatuous, or of certain antelopes, as, for example, Hunter's hartebeest {Damaliscus hunteri} or the bongo (Boocercus euryceros], which had been seen by Europeans not long before. Of course, after my absolute proofs and those given by Professor Matschie, it was constantly stated by this or that person that they had long been acquainted with the animal in question. Such statements are easily made ! In an English work, Great and Small Game of A /nca, published in 1899, the striped hyajna is said to be found only in Somaliland. The great whale-head (Bal&niceps ;r.r), which has become so celebrated, was for years after its discovery in the marshes of the Nile the unattainable desire ot ornithological collectors ! How seldom does the European spy out a fox in pass- ing through woods and fields ! How proud I was in my younger days in the Eifel Mountains at home over having 452 •* Ilva-nas and jackals •seen the wild cat on six occasions, and having killed three specimens ! Although I have made' tour sojourns in Mast Alrica. only once have I seen the striped hya-na by clay. At night I have noticed it twice, and I have trapped it 121 times. All natives who are at all acquainted with the animal world know the " kingugua " well. ll you show them one that has been trapped they recognise it at once ; but it you question them about it, though its appearance is so distinctive and easily recognised, you are confronted with the most astonishing ignorance and that lack ot desire to know which is a trait ot the natives ot hast Atnca. The " kingugua " is much more (eared than the spotted hya-na ; it is said to be much more rapacious and aggres- sive. I cannot say how this may be. Perhaps the very wildness ot the animal has been the cause ot unjust sus- picions with regard to its savage nature.. I know that on several occasions the natives laid the blame ot certain cattle ravages and tatalities on " my hya-na ' when leopards were unquestionably the real culprits! In captivity both striped and .spotted hya-nas are very contidmg. In the l>erlin Zoological (iardrns I can call one away from its meal ot lli-sh! I in- animal prefers a caress to the satisfaction ot its hunger. In igo2 I managed with great trouble i<> bring home to huropr m an iron cage a hya-na i //. Sc'/t //////_<; s/ \, caught m the hafitti Mountain^. It is still living. Its transport to the coast on th With Flashlight and Rifle * excellent attendant, Ombasha Ramadan, for I was very ill at the time. I have established the fact that the striped hyaena is as commonly found as the spotted hyaena in some districts. In these cases the animals were much less rapacious than their spotted cousins. When caught in traps they always tried to hide their heads by pressing them against the earth in a very curious manner, as if playing at being ostriches- very different from the behavi >ur of the spotted hya-na, which snarls and struggles. Whilst following the course of the Pangani River, in the Kilimanjaro district, on Meru Mountain, Ngaptuk, Donje- Erok, the Njiri marshes, in the Matiom Mountains, by the Kibaya-Masai, Lake Natron, the Kitumbin, Gilei, and Donje l'Eng-ai volcanoes on Lake Natron, in Ukambani, in the Pare Mountains, and in the districts watered by the Umba River — everywhere I have found the striped hyaena,1 and sometimes twice as often as the spotted hyaena. Ubiquitous throughout the desert are the jackals, whose habits are chiefly, but not entirely, nocturnal. The beautifully coloured silver-jackal is common every- where ; but I found a second and larger species in the hilly districts (Canis liolnbi}. At night time silence reigns over the velt but for the howling of the hya-nas and the plaintive cry of the jackals, which are still on the move in the early morning, hours after the hyaenas have sought their hiding-places. 1 I had the pleasure of presenting a specimen of my hyiuna to the IJritish Mu.<;eum. 458 VOL. II. -* Ilva-nas and Jackals There is the greatest companionship between jackals and 'iias, and sometimes jackals arc at tlinr case in the jiany ot the lion : l>ut luuis. and leopards also, are apt to With Flashlight and Rifle -* prey upon them. I have found the fresh remains of jackals lying about after the lion's feeding-time. A too bold companion of the monarch had evidently fallen a victim to his venturesomeness. Generally speaking, however, jackals roam about the velt alone in search of their food, the steady breexes of equatorial Africa helping them to scent out a carcase at an immense distance. If I laid out a bait in a certain place, it was sure not to be very long before one or more jackals came peering very cautiously out of the darkness. Nothing gives a more vivid impression of the quickly changing life in the equatorial velt than the rapid decomposition of the gigantic carcase of an elephant. One day the great beast lies before us in all its huge sixe ; the next its body is changed out ot all recognition. And the hya_-nas and jackals will have already made their raid in the night. Hundreds of vultures will have settled on the neighbouring trees, or have begun to feast on the carcase. Round about the grass is trodden under, and all whitened with their droppings. During the following night almost the whole of the gigantic carcase will have,' been consumed by the united forces of the hya-nas and jackals. It is in the early morning hours that the vultures are most busy. In a very short time nothing remains but the scabby hide and the huge skeleton. The next rainy season sol tens the remains of the hide, so that it can be consumed entirely by hyajnas and jackals. Now only the broken bones remain on the ground. A velt conflagration, perhaps, and the gradual 464 <+ Ilva-nas and Jackals influence of the tropical sun soften the bones, and they fall to bits ; the tusks alone, withstand the influence of the weather for a number of years. Then new lite always springs from the ruins. I have discovered birds' nests in the huge bleached skulls, or perhaps carefully built nests of mice that had found a refuge from their enemies in the tusk-sockets. Then, in the course of a tew years, the skull also tails to pieces ; and thus ends the drama which has been played. . . . One otten encounters jackals by daylight. Their ubiquity makes them play a great role in the legends and tales ot the velt-population. In Germany the tox is the poetical personification of cunning and practical acute- ness in the fight tor lite. In Kast Africa this role is played by the " umbua witu " of the \Yaswahili. the " endere " of the Masai, or " eeloande " of the \Yandorobo. I he opportunities I had ot watching a large carcase beset by hundreds of vultures, innumerable marabous, some spotted hya-nas. and a number ot jackals, all clamouring tor the booty, were among the most interest- ing ot my African experiences. Unfortunately, bad light generally stood in the way ot successful photographs at these times. I>\ some sort of fatality the light was generally bad when I wanted it most. I trust that others may be more lucky in this respect. I hope th.it the man \\ho follows in my footsteps \\ill succeed fir better than I have done. It is no! enough to IK- keen and expert and well-equipped ; one mus: have ^ood luck as well. A IIKKH ill FRI.NCK-KAKKI) i)KVX The Antelopes of East Africa LUDWIG HECK lays it down in his book Das Tierreich, that the word "antelope" embraces all horned animals except goats, sheep, and cattle. \Ve may safely apply it, therefore, to most of the different kinds of ruminants met with on the East African plains. Amongst the various species there are two that are notable for their size and strength ; these are the greater kudu (Strcpsiceros strepsiceros] which the Masai call "ormalu"; and the eland ( Taurotragus livingstonei] called by the Masai " o'ssirwa,'1 and by the natives of the coast " mpotu." The kudu, the males of which carry larger and stronger horns than any other African antelope, dwells in mountainous districts, and seldom makes its way into the Masai country. In I nyamwesi it is frequently to be met with, and I possess a pair of huge' horns — "record ' horns — which were stated to have come from the Useguha hinterland. According to Oscar Neumann the kudu was to be found among the Pare Mountains in 1893, though 4/0 -* The Antelopes of Hast Africa not in f them L; raxing on the Blades over which they roamed. It was in the early spring, the hottest time ot" the year, and the hillsides were scorched and bare. Here' 47' \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -+ and there light showers of rain had brought out patches of new grass and new leaves upon the trees, and these the kudus sought out. The blazing sunlight, the rough The Antelopes of East Africa them suddenly. The white stripes upon their bodies have the effect of making them part and parcel ot their environ- ment, as is the case with zebras ; they produce the illusion of ravs of the sun falling through twin's and branches. The -• C5 O O extraordinarily large and sensitive ears ot these animals enable them to become aware of the slightest suspicious noise. There is something very dignified and imposing in the demeanour ot the bucks, especially when th<-\ raise their heads tor a moment at the hunters approach 1'ormerly the lesser kudu must have been .is numerous on the Hast Xjiri swamps as in other parts ot Masai-Xyika. The Masai still call them sometimes " ngare o'ssiram " (ngare-water), but their numbers were unfortunately thinned by the rinderpest. My tneiid Mr. I lobley tound a great number ot bodies ot lesser kudu-, 47;. With Flashlight and Rifle ^ in British Hast Africa which had succumbed to this terrible plague in 1891, as Mr. F. G. Jackson records in the Badminton Library. Lesser Kudus are to be found in small herds, consisting of a single buck and a tew females. During the day they rest, going out to graze in the morning and in the evening. Often they will allow you to come right up to them, and then, taking to flight, make oft* at a tremendous pace, and you will never see them again. I spent a long time trying to get a good picture ot these antelopes, but the only good one which I took was spoilt through a succession of mishaps. As they generally take up their stand in the shade of the trees and bushes, and are seldom to be seen out in the sun, it is very difficult to photograph them. On one occasion, when I came upon a fine specimen of a lesser kudu buck raising his head proudly about eighty paces away from me, my hand shook, and the picture which I took with my telephoto-lens was spoilt. The kudu which made Us appearance upon the negative presented onlv a verv blurred resemblance to the original. L s * O I found that the horns of the old bucks were very much broken and decayed ; you would think they had been lying out for quite a long time on the desert when found. The lesser kudu very often falls a victim to leopards : I have seen bits ot them hanging upon trees. In the driest seasons kudus teed largely upon " bowstring hemp ; I have sometimes found their stomachs completely filled with the long fibres of these plants. The largest and most powerful antelope ot all in Africa, the eland ( Taurotragus livingstonci}* has something 474 -•> The Antelopes of Hast Africa of the appearance of cattle: in its shape and bearing. This is especially the case with the bulls ot larger si/e, some- times weighing as much as 2,000 pounds, and with neck and shoulders strongly developed. I found that while the- females were always stripeel, the old bulls some- times lost their stripes altogether ; and, while- 1 never noticed anything exceptional about the horns ot the: bulls. those ot the: cows varied greatly in length and shape:, sometimes being all twisted, sometimes <|iiite llat. It was long believed that these elands, like the buffaloes, had been practically exterminated 1>\ the rinder- pest. I am glad to say that I found this w.is not the case. I found the biggest herd ot" all in the Kikmu countrv ; it was a herd ot lortv-seven head, and 1 saw them gra/ing upon the bare-looking plain in company With Flashlight and Rifle * with a lot of ostriches, but I could not get near them. It was by the Natron Lake that I brought down my first eland. I killed two others near Kibwezi, on British territory. Since then I have come across hundreds of solitary bulls in the autumn, and herds of various sizes, made up both of bulls and females, at all times of the year. The eland is a wonderful hill-climber. Hans Meyer and Captain Merker have seen them at a height of 16,000 or 17,000 feet on the plateau of Kilimanjaro. Professor Meyer is of the opinion that they form a separate species of mountain antelope, living always on the heights and entirely avoiding the plains ; but until he can support this theory by specimens distinguishable from those which I have met with upon the plain, I must disagree with him on this point. According to my observations the eland, like so many other African mammals, leads a wandering lite, moving about from place to place according to the season, and only ascending the mountains during the dry season ; they keep moving about over a tremendous expanse of country, seeking out tresh gra/ing-places, and are often to be met with right on the coast of the Indian Ocean, in the; Umba-Xyika country. Bull Elands sometimes attain a weight approaching to that of a large ox, and the largest specimens are some- times as much as five feet in height. It is an exciting moment for the hunter when he comes in sight of these animals for the first time. At the approach of danger the " singoita," as the \Yandorobo call them, begin by rushing together from the different parts 476 -* The Antelopes of Hast Africa of the plain where they are grazing ; then, taking to flight, they break at first into a trot, which develops presently into a heavy but rapid gallop. Before they actually make off, however, they always indulge in a series of high jumps, to the astonishment of the observer, who would not believe them capable of such agility. I often found these elands at a great distance from water They are able- to go without water for several days ; they do not feed exclusively upon grass, but also upon stalks and the small branches of trees, but their favourite grazing is upon the slopes of certain hills. Although I knew that elands were hill-climbers, I was quite startled the first time I saw them just as they were starting up the side of a mountain. The spot where I saw them was 6.OJO or 7,000 feet high, in the thick of an impenetrable jungle, made up of jessamine, vernoma. and smilax thickets. I came upon them again, afterwards, up above the forest-belt, in the region of the shrubs. 1 often found them on the; grass-covered open glades which the rhinoceroses have a liking tor also, as well as in the dense woods high up on the different hills of the Masai country at altitudes varying from 7,000 to S.ooo feet. As at this time I rarely found them upon the plains, I have come to the conclusion, as I have said already, th.it they resort to the hills in the dry season. 1 saw some quite young ones in the. month of November; in most cases the ('lands did not mix with other antelopes, and the very old bulls were almost always alone. So tar as I could judge, they did not seem at all nervous ; even the bulls that had been shot at did not seem to stand on their guard. 47C> With Flashlight and Rifle -•> Their horns were; in some cases shattered in quite a remarkable: way, whether through knocking up against the trunks of the trees or through fights with other hulls, I cannot say. While the. white: stripes are very clearly marked in the case of the young animals, they become less and less marked with age, and are barely perceptible: on the old bulls ; these bulls become darker and darker, until at last their skins get to be a sort of bluish-black. The ilesh of elands, especially ot the young animal during the rainy season, is regarded as among the greatest delicacies in those regions. The skins of the bulls entail very troublesome preparation, as they are infested by a peculiar kind of tick, especially about the neck, and are very apt to go bad. Another very notable type ot African antelope is to be found in the gnus, the " njumbo porrini " of the Waswahili, the " aingat " of the Masai, and the " ngaita " of the Wandorobo. If the white-tailed gnu (Connochcetes gnii}, now surviving only in those regions ot South Africa — the country of its origin — in which it is preserved, is more bizarre, and has its characteristics more strong]}- marked, than either the brindled gnu or the: white-bearded gnu, the latter can be claimed at least as a very distinctive feature of the fauna ot the: Masai re'gion and the salt district. Bigger and stronger than the: South African gnu, its appearance is much me>re: like: that ot a buffalo, especially when seen from afar. The first sight of a bull gnu, as it moves along in its trustful, untroubled wax, alme)st always gives the European the idea that he is face: 480 * The Antelopes of Hast Africa I to luce with a buflalo, unless he lias nunr acro African buftalo in its native \\iKls. ss te With Flashlight and Rifle -+ At the time ot my first journey the question was still undecided what kind of gnus were to be found in the Masai country ; we know now that only the white-bearded gnu flourishes there. It wanders about all over the place, according to the rains, is very gregarious, and is almost always to be found in company with zebras, ostriches, and other animals. For weeks together I have watched a curious trio, consisting of an old bull gnu, a female gerenuk- gazelle, and a male Thomson's gazelle, and succeeded once in photographing them. Gnus, like zebras, are often able to go for a long time with water containing salt, which other animals cannot drink ; in the dry season they are to be found for months together in the neighbourhood of the Natron Lakes, where they graze upon the short new grass which springs up when the lakes periodically go dry. It is not difficult to get within shooting distance of these gnus in regions where they have not yet been hunted by Europeans ; the old bulls allow the hunter to come within two hundred paces, even on quite open spaces, before they take to flight (the herds being several hundred paces further away), so it is not hard to bring them down. Very old bulls keep apart from the herd, either alone or in twos and threes. These very old animals are found sometimes with the hair on their heads almost entirely white. When the gnus get wind of the; hunter they begin snorting and go through extraordinary evolutions, springing about continually in all kinds of ways before taking to flight. They are apt to go through these antics O O J O 484 -* The Antelopes of Mast Africa sometimes in captivity. This habit oj theirs is not to be ascribed to the irritation caused by the parasites from which, like so many other antelopes, they suffer. The specimens which I have brought to Kurope have played and gambolled about in this way, and an examination of their bodies after death showed that they we- re completely tree trom these parasites. I myself have discovered a species of parasite which seems very common on the white-bearded gnus, and which has not yet been given any scientific designation. All keepers of Zoological (iardens are familiar with the way these gnus jump about. The South African gnu is most conspicuous of all in this respect — it is a character- istic not to be found amongst other ruminating animals. J. G. Millais has given us an excellent picture of the white-tailed gnu indulging in these gambols. This leaping habit is connected to a great extent with the tights th.it frequently take place between the bulls. (inns, as was found out in the early days in (. apt- Colony, are to be classed among those animals which it is not easv to overtake on horseback, their powers of endurance and vitality being remarkable. In its tree state the gnu always shows itself nervous in the presence of man. If it were to make use of its strength and its formidable horns, it would doubtless prove as dangerous, it not more tlangerous, than the buffalo, especially .is it has very good sight. It only shows its temper in captivity. when it is a more dangerous animal to deal with than most other antelopes. I was fortunate enough to be able to bring living 4*7 With Flashliht and Rifle white-bearded gnus to Kurope in the year 1900 for the first time. Through the friendly offices of Captain Murker, I succeeded in British East Africa in getti no- hold of two bulls and a cow aged about two years. In the company of two cows these gnus followed my caravan to the coast, and I succeeded in getting them safely to Germany. It was not easy to get them across the river ; they had to be driven in by force, and manoeuvred across with the help of ropes. One of the bulls I presented to the Berlin Zoological Gardens, and it was my hope to use the other two animals for breeding purposes. They used at first to run about quite freely over the paddock in Weiherhof. I had had the dagger-like horns of the bull somewhat shortened on taking him out of the cage in which we had brought him over, and which I had fashioned, with the help of my taxidermist, out of some old fencing-wood that we had bought at Pangani. A well-known horse-trainer willingly took charge of these queer strangers. Judging them naturally from a utili- tarian point of view, he exclaimed : " These are good little beasts," but he very soon changed his mind as to the character of the animals. One day he absolutely refused to go within the enclosure in which his charges were kept, which was part of his duties. " I'll never call them good little beasts again," he said. " They are devils. The wife is good enough, but the husband is the very devil himself." I had been away for several days, but I thought now I would deal with the animals myself. Armed with a long whip I undertook to drive back the bull, which was 488 -•> The Antelopes of Mast Africa disposed to make a rush at me. In a moment I was hurled several feet into the air. It was only by a miracle that I escaped very serious injury, it not death. It took three or four active: men, armed like myself, with whips, to drive the beasts off. In a week, however, the bull began to show its contempt tor even the heaviest whips, and at last it had to be1 enclosed with its companion in a smaller piece of ground, fenced in with strong stakes. Its temper gradually got worse there, and at last it became astonishingly wild. The bull in the Zoological Gardens behaved in a very similar way. A short time afterwards all three animals died ot tuberculosis. Hitherto no other white-bearded gnus have, I think, been brought to Kurope, but it is to be- hoped that this will be achieved later. (inus are fonder than any other antelope of the open vclt. upon which they are usually to lie found. Before: us there spreads, in the burning sunlight, the vast extent ot the bright-hued, reddish, glimmering laterite soil : and hundreds ot animals, thronging together, enliven its arid stretches with colours that vary in the varying lights. When the oft-seen mirage rises from the plain in the midday glow giving the illusion ot bluish water- surfaces— the gnus and zebras look as if they were moving about in water. About middav isolated groups ot gnus take their siesta under the scattered, meagre thorn-bushes ot ^alradora f>crsica and other trees; but during the rest of the day the herds are to be seen dispersed over the plain. It is very evident that here, as everywhere, lite in the 491 \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* animal world has its underlying recognised law ; for the young males in this herd of gnus are plainly united — those: who are in their prime, that is — in fighting off the old bulls and keeping them away from the herd. The old bulls remain like scouts, some hundred paces from the rest. In the famine years of 1899-1900 I was often able to get a bird's-eye view of a kind of serious " war- game " going on between the gnus and the natives, in the <"-> o O <"> dust-swept desert between Kilimanjaro and the Meru Mountains. But no matter ho\v the natives, making use of every inch of covert, tried to approach the herd of gnus» the latter were always able to evade their enemies ; for they were warned by their scouts, the old bulls, who flanked the herd everywhere. In those parts of the velt through which the British Uganda railway takes the traveller to Victoria Nyanza, one often sees large herds of gnus and many other antelopes close to the permanent way. 'I he British authorities have succeeded, by means of very strict regulations, in creating a game-preserve here, in the middle of the great trade-track. The authorities carried out this scheme with iron resolution, and the first trans- gressor of the regulations — a highlv placed i;. nglish O tj <*> rf L O official — was, according to general belief, mulcted in very heavy damages. Such a thoroughly practical mode of procedure is worth}' of all acknowledgment in a district where control is fiossib/c. It differs considerably from our "Game Protection System"- — a system of regulations which may certainly be promulgated, but which cannot be carried out in the far-distant parts of the velt, 49- -* The Antelopes of Mast Africa while in the proximity of the stations the game is extirpated. The wild-animal fauna, which I was there enabled to investigate long before a railroad connected the Indian Ocean with the largest of Central African lakes, has thus been for the most part kept intact, and gives a plain indication of what may be accomplished also in the proximity of the projected railways in (lerman I 'last Africa by means of the same judicious administration. Besides the three species already mentioned, some giants of the antelope kind inhabit many parts of (ierman I 'last Africa. These are the large roan and sable antelopes {Hippotragiis cf>oti'iign$ ;//;''<"/'). both called by the \Vaswahili " palla halla." (X Neumann has pointed out a third species in the South Masai country. In the 405 With Flashlight and Rifle -* Masai highlands proper the first kind is not to be found ; on the contrary, a strip of coast-line, stretching barely one hundred kilometres inland, along the Mombasa-Tanga- Pangani-Sadaani boundary, is the chief habitat of this splendid antelope. We find kindred types in the south of the country, in riverless districts. I have found quantities of fresh horns among the dealers in Zanzibar, all, according to their account, coming from German territory ; and, more authentically, it seems to be established by the experiences of various travellers, that the sable antelope does not seldom occur in the coast districts. In the Kilimanjaro country the " palla halla" is entirely missing. It was in the Ngare-Dobash district that I first saw the kindred roan antelope {Hippotragus eqmnus], which, later on, I had again the opportunity of observing not far from the Kikumbulia provinces. I do not believe it is the case that the hartebeest was to be found in the Kilimanjaro country before the time of the rinderpest ; at any rate, it can only have occurred there in very small numbers. To obtain photographs of these glorious roan ante- lopes in their native freedom would be an enterprise worthy of any amount of endurance. Unfortunately I was not able to undertake it. But, in compensation, I cannot say how many times I came upon a type as beautiful as it is timid — the fringe- eared oryx (Oryx cal/otis}< which inhabits chiefly the driest parts of the desert, as far as possible from water. This type, numerously represented in Africa and Arabia, reaches its highest development in the gemsbok (Oryx 496 -+> The Antelopes of Mast Africa of the Cape;, an animal which, according to the latest reports from German South-West Africa, has been decimated within recent years. In this species, moreover, the splendid horns are at their finest and longest. These horns arc: always stronger, eompacter, and shorter in the males than in the females. A cow which I killed in 1900 had only one horn; the other had been broken off. This antelope reminded me curiously of the English heraldic animal, the unicorn. The prevailing species of oryx in German Kast Africa is the tuft-eared kind. This antelope is known to the \Vaswahili under the name ot " chiroa," to the Masai as " ol' gamassarok," and to the \Vandorobo as " songori." In the rainy season these big antelopes are extraordinarily tat. Before I hunted oryx in the .Masai country, little was known of them there ; but I found them extremely numerous, living in herds of as many as sixty, but more often in smaller groups, and, as with most antelopes, the old lug bucks isolated. Their coloration, which matches that ot the veh most wonderfully, and their peculiar habit ol living tar away in solitary places, are the causes ot the comparatively rare observation and destruction ot them by Europeans. And even such a distinguished hunter as I'. C. Selous spent, as I am told, several fruitless weeks, some years ago, trying to bag the "chiroa in British Kast Africa. These antelopes otten live tor weeks at a time away from any water, the night-dew and the water-retaining plants sometimes being sufficient tor them. It is only at the heiht ot the dr season that the o to the water. \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* Extraordinarily short and thick-set in appearance, these antelopes are possessed of desperately dangerous weapons in their horns, so that they have nothing whatever to fear, even from leopards. They care as little for the mountains as the gnu does — and, indeed, are essentially animals of the plains. Of a timid disposition, they avoid inhabited regions as far as possible. I found quite matured calves in December. Their mothers cleverly keep the rest of the herd at a distance from themselves and the youngsters, as I once was able to observe, when the handsome creatures are playing a kind of war-game with each other, in which the isolated animals parry the playful thrusts of their comrades with their pointed and formidable horns. Like the gnus, they show a marked partiality for the society of zebras. Quite often I found these oryx, especially solitary bulls, resting in the daytime on little open spaces in the midst of spreading sueda-bushes. All the oryx are likewise among the toughest of wild animals ; only a very well-placed shot will dispose of one of them. The beautiful gemsbok has never, so far as I know, reached Europe alive. Antler-bearing ruminating animals are entirely unknown in Africa, with the sole exception of two species of deer at the extreme north of the continent. Some kinds of waterbuck (Codns) are strikingly like the deer tribe in their habits, demeanour, and general conduct, the females especially bearing a marked resemblance to the red- deer. The male water-bucks carrv a statelv head-ornament * The Antelopes of Mast Africa in the shape of lyre-shaped, curving horns. As a general rule I found the " euro " of the \\ asvvahili in the proximity of water and marshy places ; hut it also goes right out into the velt, and during the dry season \\'ill even with- draw into the mountain-forests, finding good cover there, and protection from llies. '] he scientific name of the waterbuck inhabiting the Masai district is Co/at* cl/ipsif>i'\'iuiuis \ the Masai tongue gives it as " ol' emaingo," and the \\andorobn as " ndoi. ' l>y the coast, waterbuck particularly delight in the proximity ol the salt-water creeks. I found them extra- ordinarily numerous near marshy river-hanks, \\here I often ohser\'ed several hundred in one day. Like all antelopes, waterhuck divide themselves hit > herds of different sexes ; With Flashlight and Rifle -* hut one sometimes finds ;i few isolated bucks among the large herds of hinds. The waterbuck dearly loves an island in a river, to which he can make his way by shallow channels, untroubled by the fear of crocodiles. The water- buck has a very peculiar smell, which is overpoweringly strong near its especial habitat, and can even be perceived at a great distance. This odour, which is something like that of tar, pervades the flesh of the animal, so that it is not much relished as food by Europeans. The females are particularly timid and watchful, and always give the first signal for flight. The buck or bucks which happen to be with them always, on such occasions, form the rear-guard of the fugitive troop. The vitality and tenacity of these antelopes are as remarkable as in most African horn-bearing animals. In the March of 1897 I went alone with a small caravan from Kilimanjaro to the coast, following the left bank of the Rufu. Amongst my tame cattle there was a black-and-white cow. Suddenly I noticed something black and white about two hundred paces in Iront of me, and supposed it was my cow which was being driven in front with the goats. But immediately afterwards I saw that it was a male ostrich, which had been taking a midday sand-bath, and was now running away from us. Scarcely an hour atterwarcls I saw, to my intense surprise (I was marching at this time in front of the caravan), something white glimmering again through the bushes. Amazed, I took the glasses to ascertain what it really was, when, to my delighted astonishment, the white " something " defined itself as a snow-white female water- 50-1 -* The Antelopes of Mast Africa buck. Hut, most disappointingly, I missed it, owing to the great distance and my pardonable excitement. I stayed three days at that place, vainly searching for the rare creature ; I never saw it again. About a year later it was, I was informed, again fruitlessly chased by two Europeans at the same place. Curiously enough, white waterbuck were not unknown to my old caravan-guide. Years ago he had seen " white game" ( .\ vama //ivf///V) near the same spot, and so had the people who were then with him. The so-called hartebeest antelopes are widely represented by main ditlerent species throughout Africa. Despite the obvious family likeness always existing, they really differ a good deal in colouring. and especially in horn-formation. My \Yanyamwesi carriers called them " punju " ; With Flashlight and Rifle * '-S the coast-folk give them the name of " kongoni " ; the Masai, " logoandi," and in the older idiom, " lojuludjula." I found " roboht " to be the Wandorobo name for them. In the Masai desert region the " kongoni " of the coast-folk (B^lbal^s cokei) is found — a brown animal, and, like all hartebeests, remarkably top-heavy. It is a frequenter of the plains, where, once put to flight, it displays extraordinary staying power. If the old leader of a herd, whether a buck or a hind, be slain, it is not difficult to kill some other members of the party. This antelope, which at first sight is so quaint and ugly, can move over the uneven ground of the desert with wonderful agility. The legs, as hard as tempered steel, seem to carry the creature over the ground as if he flew on feathered pinions. In some cases the flight begins with a most characteristic trotting — a kind of thrusting trot, in which the fore-legs are thrown far forward. If they are put to very hurried flight, they carry their heads very low and well in front of them. The vitality and tenacity of this wild animal — which feeds exclusively on grasses — are, in my opinion, superior to that of all other African antelopes. I have often had to follow old bucks, which had four or more mortal wounds, for a very long time before I could administer the finishing shot. The coat of this antelope sometimes, especially at night, looks of a shimmering whitish colour, as is strikingly shown in one of the illustrations to this book. -*> The Antelopes of Kast Africa In open declivities, sparsely grown over \vith acacia salvaclora and terminalia, as well as in the open plain, we find the " kongxmi " specially frequent, often in company with ostriches, zebras, gnus, and Grant's gazelles or other wild animals. Young specimens of these ante- lopes, only a tew days old. which I have come across, principally in March or April, scamper off just as nimbly fJb * as their elders. One of these; week-old creatures, which I was trying to tire out, was the principal cause (ot course, in conjunction with severe malarial fever) ot a painful heart-trouble, which brought my third African tour to a premature end. 1 o tin; hartebeests (as well as to many other species ot antelope) are. peculiar both the characteristic lachrymal glands and another kind of gland, of which 507 With Flashlight and Rifle ^ the particular character has not as yet, to my knowledge, been at all thoroughly investigated. These glands fulfil the purpose of secreting a certain scent, which makes it easier for the animals to find one another in the wilderness. This antelope does not offer any particular temptation to the sportsman, for its flat horns form no very coveted trophy. The hartebeests can live tor a long time without water, and the remark- able power that many African ruminants have of exist- ing with very little liquid food is thus again strikingly exemplified. In the districts drained by the Victoria Nyanza I became acquainted, some years ago, with two other beautiful species of hartebeests — namely, the tiang (Dama- liscus jimeld) and Jackson's hartebeest (Bubalis jacksoui]. In 1897 I al-so succeeded in shooting in British East Africa a type of hartebeest (Bubalis neuniauni} which was then known by only two or three examples. At that time, alas ! I had not conceived my plan ot taking photographs ot Atrican wild beasts. The beautiful and graceful impalla-antelope (the " swalla " of the caravan-carriers), the male specimens ot which carry fine lyre-shaped, wide-spreading horns, is found in small groups, and also in large herds ot as many as two hundred, about the bushy, thinly wooded districts, but never on the plain. The lovely wild creatures, it shot at, alter their course over and over again with great rapidity, so that they are continually meeting, passing, crossing one another — a vision ot enchanting grace in the sun-drenched landscape ! Agility, grace, 508 -* The Antelopes of Hast Africa steeply elasticity, wonderfully vigorous beauty — all arc- here combined in one small compass. Timid and pretty, the impalla-antelopes are extremely cautious also, and the alarm-note of the bucks is heard as often by day as by night. I found young impalla- antelopes in December ; their mothers remained near the large; herd. The impallas like particularly the freshly sprung young grass, and manage to discover this even from great distances. They frequently alter their habitat. During the driest part of the year they keep in the closest proximity to the streams and brooks, where they may always be found in the; hollows where fresh grass is growing. The natives know this, so they burn little tracts of the velt in order that the young grass may spring up on them. The antelopes will come, hurrying to these from afar, and many of the pretty creatures are shot in this way amongst the half-charred solanum- bushes upon the blackly burnt soil of the velt. In the autumn of the; year i Sqo I observed, in the middle; of a herd of about two hundred impallas. by the Mto-Xyaki at Kilimanjaro, a perte-ctly white; female specimen. I succe;eeled, to my gre-at delight, in killing this specimen, afte;r much stalking, renele;reel especially difficult bv the watchfulness and numbers of the others. 1 he tollowing-up was made laborious l>\ the almost impenetrable "bowstring" hemp thickets which cover the low-lying land ne;ar this stream. It was only after the; third bullet that I actually got hold of the longed-for animal, an 1 then I saw that she was pregnant with a male voting With Flashlight and Rifle -* one, which was absolutely normal in colour. The slain antelope was no true albino, but had normal-coloured eyes. A long time ago, according to report, a native; hunter succeeded in killing a similar white antelope, which was brought to Europe. A group set up for me by Robert Banzer at Oehringen (\Vtirtemberg) shows this rare animal surprised by a black serval cat which I caught, and two other servals, and makes a most pleasing " contrast group " of my African spoils. Of the number of species of bushbuck in Western Africa which are peculiarly well adapted for life in the marshes by reason of their fine, large, extraordinarily elongated hoofs, the handsome species known as Tragel- aphiis masaicus, called by the Waswahili, " mbawara," in Kumasi, " sarga," and by the Wakamba-men, " nsoia," is the only one forthcoming in Northern East Africa. This type, although confined to watery places, as is evident from the formation of the hoofs, is by no means a marsh-animal, but lives also in high-lying moun- tain-forests, and was limited, in its origin, to very well- dehnecl covert-giving localities. I found the bushbuck not only near the coast in jungly places, but also by rivers and on the mountains of the Masai country at two thousand feet high. This antelope, which utters a peculiar alarm-note, audible afar, often lets the hunter come quite; close in the; daytime, before it takes te) flight, and goes in the; early mornings and evenings to the clearings for food. I'nder every condition of its life it prefers a very close-, upstanding bush as a resort. -* The Antelopes of Hast Africa The old bucks gradually lose the beautiful brown colouring and the white markings, and grow darker and darker as they increase- in age. The natives maintain that this antelope, when wounded, sometimes shows itself aggres- sive and dangerous. I found sometimes that mortally wounded bushbucks uttered a deep moan like a roebuck. Some of the tribes disdain the bushbuck as food. In March, near Arusha Chini, I noticed these antelopes with tin\~ calves. On account ot their very dense- haunts, I unfortunately failed to obtain a useful negative. An abundance of splendid antelope types entices the huntsman to delightful stalking expeditions in the Dark Continent. But unquestionably that most coveted trophy oi the German sportsman, the antler* o/ flic chief *ta^ of t/ie herd, is for ever denied him here- ! 1 lowever, he is indemnified tor this by the- number ot horn-bearing animals that he will find ; and even in these days there are many marsh and desert trophies worth trying tor; and there, is no knowing but he may come: upon some strange denizen o! the primeval forest the very existence ot which is unsuspected ! WILD ANIMALS AT A SALT-POOL XXV Gazelles and Dwarf Antelopes THE two species of gazelles met with most frequently in Masai-Xyika are Grant's gazelle (Gazclla granti] and Thomson's gazelle (Gaze I la thomsoni}, the latter of which is very similar in colouring to the former, but much smaller. The large and beautiful Grant's gazelle, whose bucks have wonderful tails and whose females have beautiful long horns, was discovered and made known in 1860 by Speke and Grant on their way to the Victoria Xyanza, then discovered bv them. Thomson's e^^lle (the * O " goilin " ot the Masai) owes its discovery in 1883 to the English traveller of that name. The stately Grant's gazelle is found everywhere in Masai-land in large herds, very seldom alone. Sometimes the herds are composed of only female's or only bucks, sometimes of a number of females with only one or a tew bucks. In the summer months I often found single female Grant's gazelles on large grass-pastures, and I was then -* (iazclles and I )\varf Antelopes sometimes able to li^'ht on their calves, which were hidden not tar otl. XVhen these are sufficiently L(rown, the- mother takes them with her to the herd. These gazelles shun the forest, hut are found in the lighter brush-woods. They do not eat ^rass exclusively, but also leaves and some kinds ot tree-fruits, especially the fruit of a lar^'e solanumart. The horns of the bucks verv often curve outwards in N 1 ' a remarkable way. but sometimes they are set quite (-lose together. I found both kinds in the one district. and have made a lar^e collection of the two. 'I his species of antelope has one peculiarity- the way it doubles like the hare when chased. One notices thm especially with regard to the females, which always take the lead in the flight, while the buck or bucks of the herd keep 5' 7 With Flashlight and Rifle -* to the rear. The bucks have a particularly solemn appearance as they slowly swerve round to eye one, holding their necks very stiffly under the great weight of their horns. The smaller females, however, are the embodiment of graceful motion itself, and know well how to circumvent the stratagems of the hunter. During the spring months Grant's gazelle is much harassed by a species of parasite discovered by myself, and also by a new species of gadfly which I found on it. The larvae of the first-mentioned parasite pierce through the skin of the animals, causing much pain ; the effect is very bad on the venison. This gazelle is not dependent on water, and is often found far out on the velt a good distance from the watering-places. I once came very near being done for by a female Grant's gazelle, furnished with a pair of stately horns with very sharp points. My friend Alfred Kaiser had taken a walk with me in the direction of the Meru Mountains on the occasion of my first visit to East Africa. We were resting close by a pitfall made by the natives, in which a rhinoceros had been captured the night before, when we suddenly noticed a solitary Grant's gazelle on a hill some distance off. Armed with my friend's rifle, with which I was unfamiliar, I got nearer to the gazelle, and took aim when about three hundred paces off, using a large-bore cartridge. The wounded gazelle immediately came running clown the hill and made for me, bleating loudly. Her young was evidently hidden in the grass not far from where I stood. At first I could not believe my eyes ; but at the last moment I '518 -* Gazelles and Dwarf Antelopes realised the seriousness of my situation, and managed to fire a second shot just in time, which made the animal turn a somersault but a tew paces otl. Had I not succeeded in this, it would undoubtedly have pierced me with its horns. The smaller Thomson's gazelles dwell out upon the; prairies. They seem to be: found in the Masai country exclusive!}. They are not only much smaller than the (irant's o'a/.elles, but also less beautiful, and tar interior in every way. Thomson's ^a/elle has, 1 mi^ht say, something ol the sheep about it. I hose which have not previously been shot at allow you to ^'ct within about one hundred and twenty paces ot them, and only then move slowly away. They show their stupidity in their whole bearing. I hey With Flashlight and Rifle -* feed exclusively on grass. Unlike the Grant's bucks, the bucks of Thomson's gazelle are sometimes found alone. They have, as a rule, very strong and long antlers, the points of which are sometimes very close together, and never curved tar apart, as is the case with many Grant's gazelles. It is very noticeable that the female Thomson's gazelles — almost without exception — have crooked and ill-formed horns. One frequently comes across striking malformations. I have never found deformities among the horns ot bucks. When these gazelles are taking to flight they carry themselves in a very stiff and straight manner. When in full flight, however, like the harte- beests, they, keep the head low down, so that the whole body of the animal seems flat and outstretched. When trotting they hold their heads somewhat higher, this being true especially ot the bucks. One often sees Thomson's gazelles feeding contentedly among the herds of cows, and still more among the herds of goats belonging to the Masai. All kinds of game are confiding with the Masai people, who never consume the flesh of wild animals. Sometimes I found bucks fighting so intentlv that <*> O " I could almost touch them with my hands. These little gazelles have a peculiar characteristic that I have never seen mentioned by other authors. Wherever and when- ever one may happen to sight them, they whisk their tails violently backwards and forwards, especially when they become suspicious of any one approaching them, or when they take to flight They can always be recognised by this whisking of the tail. S20 «* Gazelles and Dwarf Antelopes Xow and again one finds them living amicably and sociably with other kinds of animals. For days I have observed a single buck in company with a female gerenuk gazelle and an old bull. I have never noticed these dwarf gazelles on the left bank of the Pangani River, but have frequently found them elsewhere. Xear Xakuro and Flmenteita Lake-, in the British district, I have; se-en them in thousands. In August I found newly born calve;s, and at the same; time very small e-mbryos. The dwarf gazelles are a great ornament to the Salt and Xatron districts in the far Xyika. It is to be; hoped that the vclt will long afford a refuge both to them anel to the beautiful Grant's gazelle. There are two othe;r similar kinds of gazelle found in Africa, which are among the most remarkable of the species to be; seen in these desert placets. Imagine an extremely slender and graceful miniature; horned giraffe, coloured a uniform brown, given to raising itself on its hind-legs like; a goat, so as to eat the le-aves of bushes and trees. The males are adorned with peculiarly shaped horns ; the tc;males are without. < >ne kind, Clarke s gazelle (Aiumoi'dorcas clarkci}. has so tar only been found in quite confined portions of Somahlanel. I he other species, which is very similar, the gerenuk gazelle (Litliocranins u}a//cri,}> has a far more extensive range, and, according to my own observations, is to be found far away in the velt of German Fast Africa. I his gazelle, known by the \Vaswahili under the name, of nioggo-nyogga, by the Masai as nanjab, and the \\ando- robo as moile, was first dehnitelv located bv me in With Flashlight and Rifle *> German East Africa in the year 1896. Both Count Teleki and Hohnel speak in their works of a Jong-necked gazelle which they had killed near the Pangani, whilst on their wonderful journey of discover}- to the Rudolf and Stephanie lakes ; hut they give no other particulars. I am of opinion that they had found a gerenuk gazelle:, a species unknown to them. It was in the neighbourhood of the Buiko, at the foot of the South Pare Mountains, at sunset, that I came suddenly upon one of these beautiful gazelles just as it was in the act of raising itself on its hind-legs to pluck the scanty leaves of a mimosa, for it was during the dry season. For a moment I imagined it to be a giraffe ! However, I immediately saw my error. I knew the appearance of the gerenuk gazelle from pictures, and I joyfully thought to myself that I had here found a species of gazelle quite unsuspected in these parts. Great was my cltsire to get hold of the animal; but I failed, because of the uncertain evening light. I fired twice, but missed each time. Next morning, however, another European succeeded in killing a female of this species. Thus to my great joy my observations were confirmed, for great doubt had been expressed in the camp the evening before as to their accuracy. This was a most striking illustration of our superficial knowledge about East African animals. Soon I was able to ascertain that the gerenuk gazelle is widely distributed and is frequently to be met with, but that it is game only for the skill ul hunter. They lie in the midst of the thickest thorn-wildernesses far from the water. They can exist in waterless places, nourishing themselves VOL. 1 1 , I I -* Gazelles and Dwarf Antelopes on twi^s and leaves. These gerenuk gazelles are well off in the hungriest deserts in the midst ol a vegetation consisting of l^uphorlna, Ltss/ts quadrangular is, Sanseviera cyliiidrica. Sansevieni volksemi, and shrub-acacias. I have found no confirmation of Hunter's theory that they live cruelly on dried grass in the neighbourhood of the rain- stream betels. Although these o'a/elles are verv widelv dis- inbuted, they are confined to a (juite distinct type ol the \-elt flora, which is easier learnt by experience- than de- scribed. I hey are found not infrequently on the broad acacia-covered plains, and also in hilly districts ; but they shun luxuriant vegetation as we'll as forests. Towards carl}' morning and at evening time they are most lively. The re'st of the day is spent in the- shade1 ol the acacia-bushes. At the- approach of elanger they stand erect, as though With Flashlight and Rifle -+ moulded in bronze, with their abnormally long necks stretched out stiff and straight. If the gazelle is assured of the direction whence the approaching enemy comes, it makes for the nearest cover, its neck still outstretched right in front of it, and moving with noiseless tread like a shadow. The sportsman is apt to be quite stupefied by their sudden disappearance. This peculiarity of theirs, and their colouring, which blends so well with their surroundings, together with their alertness and caution, explain why they have eluded so many early travellers. In the hot season I used to like to hunt them at noontide. To follow the chase of these animals a hunter must not mind the fearful heat. How numerous they are in the north of German East Africa may be gathered from the fact that within a few hours I once shot five bucks and saw (but did not shoot) about fourteen females near the Kitumbin volcanoes ! This kind of hunting is very fatiguing. It is very tiring to get across the thorny places as quietly as possible, and yet not too slowly, so that the game may not take flight before one is near enough to take good aim. If the search is too long drawn out. they are often up and away before the hunter can sight them. It is a charming sight to see these gazelles, singly or in small herds of about eight, as they seek their food towards eventide, raising themselves every now and acjain on their hind-legs. This, however, is not O O often possible ; and when it is so, it is generally in the dry season, when these gazelles have to be pretty 528 '* Gazelles and Dwarf Antelopes quick in finding sufficient fresh vegetation to satisfy their appetites. So tar it has been found impossible to keep this animal in captivity, even in Africa, much less to convey it as tar as Europe. Like the wonderful Kilimanjaro white- tailed guereza (Cololuis candatits), this gazelle seems to be unable to thrive except in surroundings for which no kind of efficient substitute can be devised. Menges, a great expert in this kind of thing, tried to preserve it in Somaliland, but in vain. Personally, I attribute the failure of all attempts at keeping gerenuk gazelles in captivity above all things to unsatisfied longings for com- panionship. It would be well first of all to provide friends for these prisoners in the shape of goats. Among antelopes similar in size' to the gerenuk gazelles we find the reedbuck, which are widely distributed. Reedbuck have two very different haunts — the marshy plains and the hills, and they vary according!} ; but a bald spot and a gland under the,' ear are common to all types. A very beautiful inhabitant of the; hilly districts is the Masai mountain-reedbuck (Cen'icapra duutlcri}, which is absolutely different, both as regards appearance and habits, trom the reedbuck found lower down. About the time of my first visit to Africa the American traveller Chanler found a long-haired grey reedbuck in British Hast Africa whose habitat was on the mountains. The first to find and bring home this beautiful species from German Kast Africa was myself. It is a near relative of the South African red reedbuck Ccri'icctni With Flashlight and Rifle -* fuh'ornfii/a), and is one of the most curious objects to be found in our museums. I have found this reedbuck exclusively in hilly districts. I must say, indeed, that the name is hardly suitable, for it does not live among- the reeds, but partly in the midst of fairly high shrubs and bushes, and partly on the knolls and mounds in the mountainous districts. It abounds in small herds of about five on the western slopes of the Kilimanjaro, and on all the hills of the Masai district. I am surprised that earlier observers have not noticed them. Chanler's reedbuck is not tied to the water, and is found on dry and grassy heights. In such a neighbourhood, not far from Lake Rudolf, it was later found and killed by Lord Delamere. In a great part of Africa we find one reedbuck that lives on the plains and another on the hills. Chanler's reedbuck is the kind that lives on the hills. This species is distinguished by a peculiarly long tail of the pretty isabelline-grey colour, white underneath. Although this animal may appear variously coloured according to the light, it is always to be recognised by the long and conspicuous tail. The hill reedbuck, with the bushbuck ( Tragclaphus masaicus] and the klipspringer (Oreotragus schillingsi], together form attractive objects amid the: hills and heights, and all three furnish good material for the hunter and observer who is equal to making expeditions under an equatorial sun. Towards the evening one can, if cautious, come across little parties of these reedbuck as they graze ; but during the daytime they are as 530 -*j Gazelles and Dwarf Antelopes prone to take flight as the ordinary reedbuck. The horns of these antelopes are never so strongly developed as those of the dwellers in the reedy plains and marshes, their colouring affording them ample protection in its rocky and stony haunts. A near relative is Ward's reedbuck (Cervicapra wet I'd i], found in Masai-land, as well as in manv other IT \VA-> \I A III.K.HI nr AliDl'T IO.OOO KI-.K I "\ I 1 1 K \nI.CANir Mill Nl \ 1 N parts of Africa. It is very much smaller than the South African reedbuck, and its finest horns cannot be com- pared with those of its southern cousin. One can find it every morning and evening, alone or in small herds, on the; grassy expanses near the water, where it also takes its customary rest during the remainder of the day. This reedbuck allows one to approach very near, and With Flashlight and Rifle * then it suddenly takes to flight in quick leaps and bounds. More than once has it startled me, making me think some dangerous wild animal was upon me. It is always difficult to kill it in the act of flight, tor it doubles like a hare, and in the high grass it is scarcely possible to hit it with a bullet. A fowling-piece will easily bring it down, but it must be ready cocked to hand. In the Pangani Valley I once spent a whole day trying to capture a fine male reedbuck before I succeeded in hitting it in full flight. I particularly wanted this specimen to complete a reedbuck group in the same season's coat for a museum. The real abode of the reedbuck is to be found where •burning heat lies heavily on the reed morasses, which, broken only by a few sedges, stretch before one on the river-banks. In August I found the females were pregnant, but the bucks were extraordinarily shy, and only after considerable difficulty was I able to kill a fine specimen. On the whole the chase, is best pursued during the morning and evening hours. One has to remember the tact that these reedbuck warn one another of the approach of the toe by a piping' tone. 'I his warning is also recognised by the waterbuck ; the birds also pay attention to it. When this cry resounds through the sedge-reeds, frightened marsh-birds and herons fly up suddenly into the air. Wounded reedbuck usually seek out very thick sedge- beds, and arc- thus verv hard to find. The reedbuck seems to have a long future before it, in spite of the inroads of civilisation, because of its peculiar 534 -•* Gazelles and Dxvarf Antelopes haunts and habits. It loves to find a refuse in thick covert, and thus has a better chance than the animals which live out on the steppes. Unfortunate]}- that excellent work Great and Smal/ Game of Africa informs us that the once common reed- buck is becoming very rare in Xatal, Xululand, Bechuana- land, the Transvaal, and Swaziland. Amon mountain antelope everywhere — in the riverless districts of the mountain slopes, as well as on the stony crags of the Masai highlands. The low woods and lighter forests are alive with attractive dwarf antelopes : Harvey's duiker (Ccpkalolophus Iiarveyi}, the eyed duiker (Sylvicapra ocularis}, the dik-dik antelope (Madoqua /cirki], the musk-antelope {Nesotragus mosc/iatus), and other kinds of little dwart antelopes, all of which I have often killed and collected for our museums. But it was nearly always impossible to photograph them, as the proper light was wanting in their special haunts. 536 KAI'llIA AM> "THI.K I'AI.M-, TAM AK I M i>. AM' HAOHAliS (1KKU I:V I 1 1 K RIVER-SIDK. XXVI Apes and Monkeys ^r^\\ ( ) anthropoid apes, the gorilla and the chimpanzee, L Formerly known only on the West Coast ot Africa, have; recently been found also on the western boundaries of the (iennan Hast African forests. Pere (iuilleme, who lived lor many years on Lake- Tanganyika, and who, after seeing all his missionary comrades succumb to the deadly climate, started out a^'ain with about twentx "\\hite leathers," told me. as lon IN TIIK r.KKI.IN XOOI.OCICAI. C.AKDl.N- SI'K.CIKS KYKK SKKN Ilil.KK -»i Apes uncl Monkeys impetuous way of tearing the leaves from the branches and putting them in their mouths. Frequent eructa- tions interrupt their meal, which they make only in the morning and in the evening. Captive specimens never try to bite any one until they have; gripped him with their hands and drawn him close to their mouth. These melancholy animals, so wonderfully adapted to their haunts, live high up in the gigantic forest trees. sometimes in large, sometimes in small groups, jumping from bough to bough and tree-top to tree-top. Their bushy white tails hang low, and, as they jump, the hair of their bodies spreads out, giving them quite a unique appearance, like lichen suddenly come to life. The mbega hardly ever comes down to the ground. It finds enough water to drink in the cavities of the old trees, and, on account of its long legs, it can only move forward on the ground with great difficulty, looking very helpless. On occasions I found the mbega very inquisi- tive, and not particularly timid. Unfortunately, like so many other animals, these monkeys have much to fear from the progress of civilisation, tor their fur is greatly coveted. Already their numbers have been much thinned hy lire- arms and by the poisoned arrows of the natives. I his is the more to be lamented as, unlike baboons and nicer k.ils, the mbega is not hurtful. I he guere/a has something in common with those savage races that melt away as civilisation advances, and which prefer to go under rather than make am concessions. A free and independent dweller of the forests, finding VOL. ii. 5 \\ \ 2 With Flashlight and Rifle food in plenty in the foliage of the tree where it lives, this animal, like so many others — like the elk of the northern forests, for example — has become: settled in its habits, and won't alter them the least little bit. Its huge stomach, which never seems to leave off digesting, requires an incredible quantity of aromatic leaves of various kinds, for only now and again does the mbega consume fruits. It seems to dislike any other form of nourish- ment, although it may sometimes seek birds' eggs or young birds. Towards morning, and even during the day, these monkeys indulge in a peculiar kind of chorus, which is hard to describe — a kind of humming and buzzing that the uninitiated would never suppose came from an monkey. Early in the morning, when a thick mist lies on the torests and a saturating dew hangs in heavy drops on leaves and branches, and everywhere silence still prevails, this chorus of the monkeys, beginning softly, swells into a mi^htv sound, then dies awav, onlv to begin afresh. This O - J J C3 enables the hunter to Imd the " ob goroi " of the Masai very easily. lie has but to look up to the great summits of the funiperus proccra and other forest giants to sec: the quaint minstrels as, with tremendous leaps, they take to flight. Besides this chanting, the mbega frequently gives out a short grunting noise. In the autumn of 1899 I was first able: to ascertain that the guereza monkeys arc- snow-white when born, and that their colouring comes gradually afterwards. I discovered, too, that they were much tortured by a kind of tick (Ixodcs schillings}} in some forests. Ihese 542 -* Apes and Monkeys ticks fasten exclusively on to the eyelids, and cause had festering sores. Many years ago I lotind a large numher of mhcgas in the Kahe and Aruschu-Chini oases, \vhich are connected with the Kilimanjaro highlands hy permanent water- courses and high trees. Hut, as 1'rof. Hans Meyer remarked, they are distinguished from the guere/as of the mountains hy their shorter hair. I was informed that these monkeys were not hunted hy the natives, as they were: considered sacred. Hut in 1890 the hunting Askans ol the: Moshi station were not long ahle to withhold their rifles from this harmless animal. I hey went out on monkey-hunting expeditions lasting tor several days. Xow the- animal is a rarity -if any are to he found at all. In ]<)on 1 shot three mhegas ol the Kahe oasis, taking three days to do it. for the I'x-rlin Museum. Not on!\ here, hut everywhere on the mountains a rigorous pursuit has latch' heen organised. 1 frequently found traders, (irceks as well as Indians, with many hundred of mhega-skins ready to he sent to Kurope. A missionary amused him- self in his spare time hy hringmg down good specimens ol this monkey, worth seven shillings apiece. lie told me he managed to kill as many as nighty in one month ! A monkey very similar to the white-tailed guenva is lound in \\est Africa, which some years ago was much in voLjue, and ol which, according to official reports, several hundred thousands were exported. It will not he long hetore the supplies m the isolated and not over-extensive lorests ol Kilimanjaro and the Meru Mountains are 543 \Yith Flashlight and Rifle * exhausted in the same way. A tax has lately been levied on every monkey killed. This is very commendable, but who will enforce the regulation ? During my expeditions through the mountain-forests, I often found poisoned arrows as thin as knitting-needles. They had been used by the natives in hunting the mbega, and had been lost. It was merely for the monetary value ot these monkeys that the natives killed them. Before the European invasion the natives only killed the mbega to use its fur as a foot-ornament for the Masai Ol Morani. In former years people often made attempts to secure the young ot these beautiful monkeys and to convey them to Europe. However, all these efforts were in vain— the sensitive character of this solitary monkey made them impossible. The young did not grow to their proper size, and it they got as far as the sea, or at best to the European coast, it was but to die. For these reasons I determined to procure an old animal. I succeeded, none too easily, in getting hold ot an old male by means of a shot which grazed its head ; but now my troubles began in earnest. The monkey resolutely refused any kind of food. The care ot the wound in its head was by no means pleasant. 'I he animal kept trying to get its arms round the attendant, grunting angrily and biting fiercely at him the while. Later the doctor of the station helped me to dress this wound, and at length it healed. Meanwhile I had managed to get the; animal some fagara leaves and tendrils which I knew were its chiet food. Whenever these leaves were at all withered, the 544 -•> Apes and Monkeys mbega rejected them vehemently, and I had to get fresh ones — often no easy task. It always tried to tear off the leaves of the branch held out to it, as it was wont to do during its days of liberty, being much handicapped in this by the want of a thumb. I accustomed it gradually to bananas. The strongest and most herculean nigger of my assembled caravan was appointed keeper of the animal during the march. 'I his man was a member of the Wadigo tribe. In his youth he had been taken to the velt by the Masai, before the days of the rinderpest, and when they made their cattle-stealing expeditions as far as Tanga on the sea-coast. He had learnt thus how to tend cattle and animals of all kinds. It was a comical sight to see this black, six feet high, with his good-natured child's face, holding up a primitive sunshade over the. mbega, carefully wrapped up, and bound to him by a leathern thong. The: mbega was always trying to bite the black, and one could not help laughing at the sight of their struggles. It was al\\a\s amidst the amicable ]eers of the other carriers that peace would be restored and that " I'erad]i Bill ' would at length be able to go on his way with his ward. Hut there were continual!) fresh difficulties to be overcome. ( >n the march to the coast it was with the greatest trouble that we procured creeping plants in Miiticient quantity lo nourish the monkey, tor the fagara did not grow here. I hen, too, the mbega developed .svmptoms ot lever, which I sought to ward oil by <|uinme. Hut at last it arrived at the coast, and was transported to Ktirope, where it has now lived lor two vears, in the l>erlm Zoological 547 With Flashlight and Rifle -* Gardens, under the care of my friend I)r. Meek. It is the only living specimen which has so far been brought to Europe. Later Captain Merker managed to procure three full- grown specimens. These I tried to bring to Europe on my fourth journey home, but failed, in spite of every effort, chiefly because the monkeys, although long accus- tomed to one another, suddenly began fighting in the narrow hold, and seriously hurt themselves. Thus only one of them, a female, reached the Berlin Gardens, and she died three days later. Mbegas in captivity refuse all food offered them and pine for their beloved mountain-forests. This is unlike the habits of the baboon and other monkeys, and also unlike the anthropoid apes, which become extraordinarily attached to their keepers. The behaviour of the mbega has nothing monkey-like or comical about it, but is rather always earnest, steady, and reserved. To me it always seems a kind of reHection of its sombre haunts. It is extraordinary how differently baboons behave, whether in freedom or in captivity ! Baboons do not live, as many people: seem to believe, in the branches of the trees in tropical lands. They are dwellers either on the plains, which they explore thoroughly, or on the mountains. A confirmed plains-dweller is the: yellow baboon, scien- tifically known as Pafiio ibcanns* but called " njani " by the inhabitants of the coast, " ol'dolal," by the Masai, and " kireije " by the \Yandorobo. This monkey, which lives in large herds united by the strongest social ties, 548 -* Apes and Monkeys sleeps on ;i tree:, hut during the day it traverses the thickets and river-side woods in search of food. This consists largely oi grasses, and also of tree-fruits, leaves, grass-seeds, all sorts ot insects, besides young birds and any eggs it may happen to come across. I have never been able to confirm the statement that baboons hunt full-grown dwarf antelopes, but I do not doubt that there are times when they kill quite young or newly born animals of this kind and devour them. It is very interesting to note the way in which the biggest baboons in a herd keep watch against the onslaughts ot leopards, their greatest enemy, and other beasts ot prey. Three or tour experienced leaders take their stand on a fallen tree-trunk some few feet above the ground, and act as sentries. The herd feels perfectly sate under their guardianship. I he. enormous old males, whose1 teeth arc- longer and stronger than those ot the leopard, as well as the- smaller females with their Viiung ot various sixes, all 54" With Flashlight and Rifle -* go carelessly into the woods, plucking the grasses, picking up stones, chasing locusts or other insects, or indulging in various antics. I have sometimes noticed in the midst of these herds, or only a few feet away, impalla antelopes, dwarf ante- lopes, and even waterbuck and ostriches. Especially during the noontide hours are these animals thus accus- tomed to disport themselves. Suddenly the scene changes. One of the animals has either seen me or got wind ot me. A honey- guide flutters around me suddenly with a cry ; another bird betrays my position through its croaking ; and, like lightning, the whole concourse of animals flee in all directions amidst clouds of dust. The troop of monkeys has been given the alarm by a kind of squeak of warning. Those keeping watch on the tree-trunk come down, and the females and younger ones begin to take flight. At length, with flowing manes and tails erect, the stout old valiant fathers of families gallop off quickly, but keeping on the alert the whole time. This alertness during flight, and without stopping at all, is a characteristic peculiar to baboons and spotted hyaenas. I have never noticed it in any other animal. To me it seems a fact, about which there can be no doubt, that baboons have a language of their own, and that in danger the old animals give their commands by means ot some simple method of speech. During flight it is easy to notice the workings of their social organisation. The older monkeys dragoon the younger and more inex- perienced into batches, regardless of thumps and cuffs, 550 -* Apes and .Monkeys and help them on their way. Presently we see some of them clambering up trees to get a better viexv of their foe, and then again a great cloud of dust informs us that all have sought safety in further flight. The eyesight of the baboon must IK: extraordinarily keen — much more so than that of the natives. The baboon which I kept prisoner in my camp recognised me at an incredible distance when I was returning from my expeditions. It is most interesting to watch the troops of baboons as they go to drink of an afternoon between four and five o'clock, and to note how cautiously they quench their thirst. Their great object is to avoid the crocodile. Haboons never drink without having the water xvatched and guarded by some experienced old members ot their troop, either from a tree or from the shore. The moment a crocodile is sighted the alarm is given. Like lightning the whole troop tear up into the trees for safety, and give vent to their anger by a chorus of grunts and squeaks. 1'rom their high watch-towers the experienced old baboons keep an eye on every movement of the crocodile, and it is only after the most cautious surx'ey that they at length decide once more to approach the water to drink, or make for some shallower spot, xvhere the crocodile could not so easily get at them. In the riverless regions of the Masai countrx one comes across quite another kind ot baboon, which is ot ,i dark green colour (/'<;/>/<> ucniiiiiiiiii ). It xvas discovered by Oscar Neumann in the beginning of the year iSqo. I hese monkexs lix'e in large herds on the mountain slopes. With Flashlight and Rifle They seem to prefer sleeping on steep and inaccessible rocky spots, so as to keep out of the way of the leopard. Shivering with cold in the: early mornings, they huddle together on the rocks, and it is not until the sun's rays have- had plenty of time to warm them that they are awakened to new vivacity, for baboons are lovers of sun and light. With a good glass one can watch their goings-on for hours together. It seems, then, as if the hillsides were peopled by a primitive race of men. The old leaders of the troop survey one critically from their craggy watch-towers, whilst the females and young retire into the background in great crowds. The killing of monkeys or apes is not one of the pleasures of tropical hunting. Their death is so human that the hunter can only make up his mind to pull the trigger on the creatures in the interest of zoology. Death softens the original savage expression on the countenance of dying baboons, and you see a look of intense agony in the fixed stare of their eyes. I remember especially a most painful moment I ex- perienced after I had shot a powerful old baboon and followed him into a rocky cavern, where I found him dying, with his hands pressed to the death-wound. On another occasion I reached a mountain stream, after a twelve-hours' march at the head of my caravan, when we were all nearly dead with thirst. There were no signs of human beings about the surrounding craggy world of rocks, when suddenly one of my people; called out in a tone of fear, " Mtua Bwana," "A man, master!" as a human-looking face appeared, looking from behind a 554 -* A] jcs and Monkeys boulder about a hundred yards away in the. grey evening light. Hut it was only a very old baboon, which was survey- ing us, and which had all the appearance oi a man, both to the beaters and myself. It was covering the retreat ot the herd. I'nlike mecrkats, ot which there are three kinds in the Masai lands, and, unlike other kinds ot monkevs. i " %$v ilM^sr5 rvV. gjfc .f*.&.m* *#•'•. . ...v . ^ „* i^<- ' • ^ baboons are notable tor their sociability. In captu u\ tliey become most attached to then" masters, or to ot ler people they ciMlie ill contact With : bill tin \ ( l\ llle .it once where there is no sympathy, and hate accordingly. A specimen I possessed was extremeK tond o| me, but refused all the advances ot an expert . With Flashlight and Rifle -* prisoner, chained before the gates of the fort. A most intimate friendship had sprung up between this great, dangerous-looking baboon and a little native child about eighteen months old. From some hut in the vicinity the little one crawled on all-fours to the monkey, and played fearlessly with his huge friend for many hours every- day in a very droll and amusing fashion. On Christmas Eve in 1899, when we were all within the walls of the fort expecting an attack by the natives, all the inhabitants of the station suddenly poured in like a Hock of sheep about nine o'clock. The baboon, stricken with fear, managed somehow to break loose, and joined the rush into the fort. 556 XXVII Stalking Expeditions in the Nyika I \\.\\ K had many hundred truittul stalking expeditions in the Masai-Xyika, but also many hundred fruitless ones. I now request the reader to follow me in spirit on some such expeditions, which 1 will select in such a way as to give as exact as possible; a picture ot my experiences. With the break ot day I leave the camp, accompanied by about thirty carriers. Kach man brings with him a calabash ot water, and no more. Xoiselessly, in a row. they follow me and the Wandorobo guides. Immediately behind me come the bearers ot my photographic apparatus, and my rifle-carriers. All the men are accustomed to tall at once to the Around, upon a gesture trom me. making themselves, as nearly as may be. invisible. I his. of course, demands much patient practice. On departure trom the camp it is impossible to tell \\hethcr it may not be necessary to spend the night far VOL. ii. ;" i ; With Flashlight and Rifle -* oft somewhere on the velt ; matches are therefore brought along in a small pouch. If, by any chance, the matches (called by the bearers "Kiberiti") are not forthcoming, we are simply obliged to let the Masai and the Wandorobo men generate fire in their own primitive fashion. A wooden stave is twirled between both hands until its tip takes fire through friction with a second stick which is being violently brandished round and round ; on being brought into contact with some lio-ht inflammable drv grass or leaves, it sends o -* o up immediately a Blowing blaze. 1 / O O A bearer carries my coat ; others have charge of some small axes and ropes. I never wear a coat during the day ; an earth-coloured, raw silk shirt, wide open and with the sleeves rolled up, suits me best under the Equator. Very broad, strong, heavy, sharp-nailed strap-shoes of the best workmanship ; two pairs of stockings, one drawn over the other so as to keep off the heat as much as possible ; sett leather gaiters, earth-coloured trousers, and a very broad-brimmed and well-ventilated hat of double felt, complete my extremely simple outfit. 1 have very rarely worn a tropical helmet in the interior. The scorching glare of the sun soon fades all gar- ments to the same hue. Taut micnx ! The; more earth-like they become in colour, the nearer I get to that "mimicry" of nature which is so much to be desired. The less noticeable the hunter is, the- better. All regard for appearances has to be got rid of. One's spectacles, which are an essential, and a long, square beard, do 55* -*> Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika not add to the beauty ot one's outer man to any ^rcat extent ! It would he pleasant to have the natives hnhued with respect for a white skin /or i/sc/J\ and not merely when it is dressed up in uniform. But I have observed, alas ! that now the negro, if he has come a good deal in contact with Europeans, has already learnt to dis- criminate in this way. 'I his is particu any marked on the coast, but even in the interior there are s\ mptoms ot it. In British Kasl Atrica the Askaris have orders to salute anv white man who is a guest at the Fort. In ( icrman Fast Atrica, according to my experience, this Would be ( Hit ot the (juestl Ml. My spectacles, trained in the best gold, were certamK a source ot inconvenience1 when thev became clouded With Flashlight and Rifle -* from the effects of perspiration. So I was obliged frequently to manage without them. Fortunately, my eyesight is very nearly equal to that of the natives. Water for my own use I have for years been accus- tomed to carry with me, in bags of double linen ; and this method I can most confidently recommend. If it is at all possible, I have the water boiled ; but of course I have often been obliged to put up with the contents of some muddy marsh-pool. Neither I nor my taxidermist have ever brought with us or tasted any spirituous drinks of any kind what- ever, except in small quantities for cases of sickness : and with the profoundest conviction I can recommend this abstinence, which unfortunately is practised only by a very few. Even the little that I have had with me has generally been given away to others in cases ot sick- ness. It is certainly because of this abstinence that I have survived some bad weeks, when wine had a magical effect upon me, owing to my being unused to it, and was, in conjunction with incredible doses of strophanthus and digitalis, the only thing that could possibly have saved my lite. The round disc of the sun has risen in the vaporous distance ; brief, as always in the tropics, but gloriously beautiful, is the spectacle of sunrise. Sharply outlined against the horizon there lies before us, open and cloud- less, the mighty mountain-tract of Kilimanjaro At its feet there are already gathering single small clouds, then clouds in thicker masses ; soon a sea ot vapour 560 • -* Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika \vill hide it from our sight. Beside it \ve see the Mawenzi — a dark, threatening, desolate dome of rocks. As we move forward over the scattered blocks of lava we are reminded that this rocky region was once the scene ot some tremendous volcano's display ot power — a primeval convulsion to whose forces, according to Hans Mever. is to be attributed the; foundation in course; ot time ot the " Great Rift Valley" -the choked-up tract over which we are, now ranging. .According to the same; author, Kilimanjaro no longer harbours northerly types ot mammals (as do the Abyssinian mountains), because the "wave ot boreal lite' in the I )iluvial Period was unable to penetrate so tar as the Kmiator. The fire-breathing '>ull\s of the Kilimanjaro I . » t> at one time strewed masses ot lava all around like .sand. To our right, in a deep hollow ot the ground, there stretch papyrus-grown marshes the wester \ \|in 56; With Flashlight and Rifle ^ marshes. The declivities of Kilimanjaro send them down great floods in the rainy season, turning the country, for many miles around, into a lake. The natives maintain that subterranean tributaries from the mountain plateau feed the marshes. The " Mologh " brook, which I discovered in the volcanic rock, and which had evidently dried up suddenly, gives colour to this theory ; the permanent tributary to the easterly Njiri marsh, rising perhaps subterraneously in the bed of the crystal-clear and icy current of the " Ngara Rongai," still further supporting it. The whole north and north-east side of the chain of mountains is uninhabited, unvisited of man, and, in the dry season, completely waterless ; the rain comes down always on the other side, and it is consequently there that the native tribes make their homes. But, in my opinion, the total number of natives on Kilimanjaro has been for years considerably over-estimated. Over grassy plains glistening from an incrustation of salt, my way leads me to the border of the fen. Immense papyrus-forests tower there, where the never-failing water in the deep bog-streams affords the necessary conditions for life, and provides as well some extremely luxuriant forms of bog-flora. The peculiar /V.sV ia s/nr//o/cs — " Junge-junge " of the Waswahili — is especially abundant here, while Ccrato- phyllnm and the northerly floating-plant (my own dis- covery) Pothomageton are to be found in every direction. Already this latter has plainly annihilated some sister- forms of flora. 564 -* Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika The bird-world has been awake for a long time. In the thicket ot an acacia grove my ear catches the well-known measured cadence of a gorgeously coloured shrike (" wurger "), very clever at keeping itself hidden in the branches. Over and over again the bird repeats its ringing cadence' ; it has iour notes, which increase evenly in volume, " Kutii tititi ! " Red-beaked hornbills {Lophoceros cr\'t/iror/i\'uc/iu\} \\\ Irom tree to tree at a sate distance: in ti'ont ot us, watching with curiosity the strange new- comers. A harrier (C trait rdini'jn/s] glides over the bog; wondrous-hued rollers sweep screaming here and there. A bustard (/:/t/>u Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika just above our heads. It is the white-headed sea-eagle {Hciliiictns :'cci/cr}. \ second ea.^le, perched not tar otf ii[)on a leatless tree, is hold enough to let us conn; quite close up to it hefore it (lies oil. " Xyama Bwana!" now whispers my ritle-carrier. And he: is ri'-'ht ; a reedhuck is to he seen some distance awav, IHI-.K \VK.\VKRS Mil. I Till. IK NKVI-. IN I IE >I'K I-.A I >I N( J HKANf tc-edin^' upon an open Brassy plot. As yet the beautiful tawny antelope, as lar^c as a deer, h;is not seen us ; and lor some minutes 1 am able to observe it, cropping the youn^" L^'rass that sj)routs trom the ten-pools, and every now and then bethinking itselt anxiously ol the question ol safety. It is a female, so 1 leave it alone. \\ e proceed, and the antelope, bounding hi^li into the air, disappears in a lew leaps. "With Flashlight and Rifle -* The salt-plain becomes wilder and more desolate,, and poorer in forms of animal life. Only some " crying lapwings " follow us with their jerky flight, giving out as they go their strange, soft, melancholy call. \Ye march on for another hour, penetrating further and further into the desert by the banks of the marsh ; suddenly, close in front, there peers at us one of the magnificent, vividly tinted saddle-billed storks (EphippiorhynchiLS senegaliiisis}, which almost instantly seeks salvation in flight. Just where the stork's powerful pinions have landed it in safety, two little gazelles are frightened away from the water ; they bound several times to right and left, and then set off slowly, with measured pace, into the desert, swaying lightlv to and fro. These are Thomson's gazelles / O O •* O (Craze/la tlioinsom}. They glance inquisitively over at me ; from time to time they bend their heads as if to eat, only to lift them quickly again. We can now discern in the background, on the wide, level ground, a greater number of these lovely brown creatures, with the pretty black markings on their haunches. They let us get much nearer them, but then, with their heads stiffly raised, they move off, very soon breaking into a trot. Called to attention by the fugitive: Thomson's gazelles— the " goilin " of the Mas li — there are now eyeing us a number of their near relatives, the splendid Grant's gazelles. Several females are grouped round a magnificent buck, which is elecked with lyre-shaped, spreading horns a foot anel a half long. These animals take: flight, too, and, changing their direction frequently, form suddenly into a half-circle round me anel my company, sej as to- 568 --•> Stalking Expeditions in the Xvika inspect closely from behind, and with a good scent, these strange visitors. A dark object, immovable in a certain part of the velt about three-quarters ot a mile away from us, has been recognised by me for some time as an old, solitary bull gnu (Connocfifftes albojnbatns}. Its horns well forward, its powerful head turned towards us, the gnu I tries to discover what is approaching him, but only a violent slashing to and fro of his bushy tail betrays his curiosity. Suddenly, alter first darling ab nit the ground in our vicinity, five or six spur-winged plovers (Stcf>hanih\'.\' coronal n.<] rise ab;>ve our heads. These birds arc; the detestation of every sportsman. As is their custom, they sweep, howling and scolding, trom side to side-, and thus serve as a warning to the animal-world ot 569 With Flashliht and Rifle approaching danger. The bull gnu lingers on, however, curious still, rather than nervous. \Ye approach ever closer, but apparently heading off to the right of him ; and I give orders that none of my people glance in his direction. But the plovers will not leave us ; by degrees the gnu takes warning, and moves off, with head stiffly bent, in leaps which look short, but which carry it over the ground at a good rate. From time to time it halts, and turns round with a sudden, violent movement, lashing its tail furiously and peering in our direction. The tiresome plovers have left us at last, and slowly I make another attempt to get up to the bull, this time in a lateral direction. I succeed at last in this, and am able to get a shot at the great beast — sharply defined against the clear desert background two hundred yards away. The gnu shivers through all his body, and turns straight towards me, but then rushes off on three legs. My bullet has hit too far back. Instantly I follow up its track among the acacia-bushes. In this part ot Africa, where neither horse nor doer 1 o can stand the unhealthy climate, there is only one way of reaching your game-, when you have only wounded. You must follow it at once, as you do when shooting elk. For with even the shortest delay, the heat of the sun dries up the blood-tracks unrecognisably ; other animals cross the dry trail, and vultures and jackals will have torn to pieces the decaying carcase before the hunter can be on the spot. So I follow the blood-tracks for half an hour. By using the tracks of hippopotamuses and waterbuck, the gnu 570 .ing Hxpeditions in the Nyika has found its \vay into a shallow bog, through which we have to wade knee-deep in water. Presently we see him in flight again upon a large, level bit ol ground which stands out of the water and is covered with thick vege- tation. I could not possibly get an aim at him. and I perceive that this pursuit is going to be a length}' business. (}nus, even when wounded, are among the must tenacious ol the will beasts ol Africa; their endurance is extraordinary. I he endurance and insensibility to pain of most African wild creatures are snnp!\ astounding. 1 Ins tact is acknowledged by all experienced hunters, without exception. The vitality of African wild animals is ever so much greater than ol those we have in Kurope. It is to be explained, I supp.ise. by the degeneration of With Flashlight and Rifle the latter, among which " natural selection " has for so long been more or less repressed. The African native, too, displays incredible powers of recuperation, and after the severest wounds he produces " sound flesh " at a rate which must be the envy of every European and the admiration of the surgeon ! In the further pursuit of the gnu we come at every step upon fresh representatives of the ornithology of the marsh ; the curious umbrettes (Scopus innbrctta] fly lightly about us. Pretty little black marsh-fowl (Ortygomelra pusilla obscura] slip in and out of the sedge-growth at our feet quickly hiding themselves from observation. Splendid snow-white egrets investigate the strange looks of their human visitors, and then instantly retire into safety. With a warning cackle, some Egyptian geese (Chenalopex cegyptiacus] fly off to the open water ; the strangely shaped little parra flutters up between the reeds, visible for a moment only. But in the drier parts our steps are haunted continually by little male birds belonging to that beautiful species the black-and-white "crying lapwing.'' Each couple of this particular kind of lapwing rules at this season over a certain well-defined district, its own little kingdom, from which it jealously drives away all rivals. Every- where within this tiny realm the little hens are hatching their prettily spotted eggs. This accounts for the anxiety .and suspicion of the cocks. Now, again, the dry desert receives us, and going through plantations of salvadora, acacia, and terminalia, we reach a part of the velt which, here and there at least, affords a little covert. But the gnu. which has 572 <+> Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika already once covered his blood-tracks, has likewise been going forward, though still on three legs. Long ago I made it a rule to myself always, even here in Africa, to follow upon a trail which has been once entered upon, so long as it holds and pursuit is possible. So we go on for another league into the desert, when at last the sharp eyes of my bearer catch sight, he thinks, of our quarry, moving forward slowly about a mile or so in front of us. And he is not mistaken. As we proceed I note several places where the hunted animal has made a halt, and lost a good deal of blood ; two splinters of bone are also found. Now begins a monotonous tract of sueda-bushes ; covered by them, and leaving my people far behind, I succeed in getting up very quickly to the gnu and delivering a well-placed finishing-shot. My carriers hasten up. A number of them, under my direction, cautiously skin the dead animal ; the skin and head, with the horns, are taken back to the camp, there to be carefully dressed and preserved. Other carriers are sent home with the. flesh. Round the remains of the gnu, after we have.' withdrawn a little distance, a number of vultures and marabous soon gather. Already, for a long time, a fork-tailed kite (Milvns (Cg\f>tui$] has been hovering over us. con- tinually approaching within a lew yards. These' birds follow one constantly, knowing that they may count upon coming by some boot}' in this way. Presently two others make their appearance, and as the}' swoop to the ground and begin to pick up little bits of meat, there is a rushing sound in the air, and, down Irom the clouds, vol.. ii. 573 14 With Flashliht and Rifle there whizzes obliquely a dark-winged object that settles on the remains of the gnu. It is only when at a little distance from the ground that the vulture spreads out his wings, at the same time stretching forth his talons, thus mitigating the force of his fall. Greedily, with un- gainly hops, he hurries towards the remnants of my booty. From different directions he is followed by others and again others of his kindred. Marabous let themselves down to the vultures without a movement of the wings, like para- chutes, their long legs stuck quaintly forward. But they never by any chance land upon the carcase ; they reach the ground at some distance from it. Vulture upon vulture now comes whizzing down : the little carrion- vulture (Neophron monachus], picking out scattered morsels with its weak bill and pulling timidly at the larger fragments ; the stately Ruppell's vulture, in its simple, sand-coloured plumage ; the gaily coloured hooded vulture (Lophogyps occipitalis] ; the grey-headed vulture, my own discovery (Pse-iidogyps africanus scJnllingsi}, and the "sociable" vulture (Otogyps auricular is], the largest and most im- posing of all its tribe, whose occurrence in German East Africa I was the first to establish. With incredible rapidity the assembled birds gobble down the fragments. Into the: midst of their quarrelling and the Happing of their wings the smaller birds tumble cleverly down ; they catch up the morsels of flesh that are flying about in the tumult, tear them asunder in the air with their claws, and swallow them. In the same way the preying storks ensure themselves their share of the booty. In an incredibly short time the troop of birds 574 -•> Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika have devoured the whole, while the wind carries over to us the noise ot their scoldings and hissings. Those which are sated run aside with short, hopping steps, and then rise in the air, to seek, with heavy flight and well-filled crops, the neighbouring trees, there to give themselves up quietly to the business of digestion. The short rest came- just at the right time for us ; after about a quarter ot an hour 1 set torth again into the desert. Xow there stretches be-fore us a long and arid plain, whose surface; appears to be undermined and hollowed every- where. Over our heads there hovers a pair of the beautiful juggling-eagles (Helotarsns ecctndcthts}, the most wonderful fliers I know. Near the poverty-stricken bushes and shrubs there peep out here and there the marmot-like ground-squirrels, long-tailed, slender, and nimble, resembling in their colouring the reddish desert-ground. Raising themselves on their hind-legs, they look round at us anxiously, then disappear in the deep undergrowth. It is by no means easy to bag these animals, although they are far Irom rare, and in some places are extraordinarily numerous. Many kinds prefer to inhabit deserted white-ant hills. When once they have withdrawn into this chosen fortress ol theirs, you have to wait a long time belore you see them again. Only when the wind favours you is there any chance ot getting a shot at them. Often they ptit only their heads out of their refuge, keeping them there quite a long time, on the look-out. It shot at thus the wounded animal disappears entirely into the 5 7 7 With Flashlight and Rifle * depths of the ant-hill, and therein, owing to the extraordi- nary solidity of ant-architecture, is lost for ever to the hunter. As I expected, crowds of the bigger mammals are now visible which in the daytime keep tar away from the water. In the hilly country we come from time to- time upon grassy prairies, very different from the arid velt. Little herds of Grant's gazelles (Gazella grauti], are to be met with. They show themselves confiding,, go slowly in front of us, and, once put to flight, cut most characteristic capers, tor ever changing in direction. But this apparently aimless beginning brings- II ,• O O O them soon, in a wide half-circle, below our wind, and I take this behaviour therefore to be a manoeuvre peculiar to themselves and carefully planned out by them. When a herd of these Grant's gazelles move on ahead of us, the bucks are wont to bring up the rear, with stiffly-held heads and very dignified steps. Their heavy, wide-spreading horns, upon their extraordinarily strong, short necks, give them a sort of dignity. The females of this species are more than usually cautious and timid. So far as I can see, they have young ones with them all the year through. These young ones are suckled by the mother, hidden in the long grass ; but when the herd takes to flight the young ones accompany their elders. In one of the deeper-lying parts of the velt we now find a herd of big tawny antelopes. They are harte- beests (ttubalis cokci} — that remarkable, overgrown, ugly type which surpasses even the gnu in vitality and insensi- bility to gunshot wounds. 573 -* Stalking Hxpeditions in the Nyika The: hartebeest antelopes of this region have a special interest tor me, since we are not vet familiar with the differentiation of the local types; therefore I determine to make a careful stud of them. (Hidin snake-wise over With Flashlight and Rifle -* the ground, I approach the herd. In this direct contact with the glowing, burning soil, one's knees and hands can scarcely endure the heat. My own hands are not precisely pampered — they have long since been hardened, though it is true that they have got cracked in the course of photographic manipulations. My hands, my constantly exposed arms, and the upper part of my body, which except in the hottest hours of the day is often entirely bare and exposed to the effects of the sun — these all have acquired a brownish hue ; so much so that on my return from the Dark Continent, it has often amazed even old and well-tanned seafarers. It takes me a good half-hour to get near them ; the scouts of the herd of antelopes peer more and more curiously at the place, less than a mile off, where my people have remained behind in the shadow of a euphorbia. In the course of my crawlings I startle two small hares from their warrens, and they seek safety in flight. At last I am within range, and a brace rewards my labour. In long, even-measured flight, their heads sunk close to the earth, and wrapped in a cloud of dust, the surviving ten antelopes disappear in the distance. This time, by a lucky chance, I have succeeded in killing the two animals with one bullet. In isolated places I find several deeply trodden rhinoceros-tracks, all leading to the Xiiri marshes ; thev O J * gleam in the sunlight, for the grasses which have been trodden down are more completely withered by the sun than the darker yellowish grasses of the velt. These paths I follow now for a league further, and then -•> Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika. come upon the fresh trail ot an exceptionally large rhinoceros. The beast has left the track, and probaby has settled down at a distance of not less than three, and perhaps of five or more leagues, in the desert. After sending back the different servants into camp, there remain with me now only those picked carriers who can stand any amount of fatigue and upon whom 1 can rely most thoroughly lor everything. I believe my observation to be accurate in this, that the power of enduring thirst is quite dihVrently developed in the various races and tribes, according to whether they are indigenous to well-watered, or waterless, regions. Trustworthy observers have told me that, when in good condition, the .Arab horse: can endure thirst lor three days and do its work. This would be impossible for any European breed, and lor this reason I consider the employment of Kuropean horses in South-West Africa, for instance-, to be most injudicious. My \\anyamwesi men, in other respects most useful and valuable servants, who are inhabitants of the relatively well-peopled and well-watered country of I nyamwezi, could not endure thirst anything like so long as the Masai Ol Morani and \Vandorobo men, who are a hanlv folk, used to all kinds of deprivations. I myself, of course, could not compare with am of the natives in this respect. It is noteworthy that the native, even when enduring the agony of thirst, is able to get sleep at ni^ht, while \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -*> the thirsting European is incapable of driving away the obsession of the thought of water. Water ! I feel clearly how difficult it is to depict real, serious, burning, terrible thirst to those who, like most Europeans, have never felt it. The pangs increase as the temperature rises, for the scorching sun and the dry warmth cause the body to perspire and thus lose what it has of moisture. Quietly encamped in the shade, one can, of course, endure thirst for much longer than when on the march. But we have a proverb, " Staying in camp finds no water," and so thirsty men have often to keep on the march. It is said that the Mahdi did his enemies to death by starving them, but not depriving them of water. Under normal conditions, it appears that with this treat- ment the death-agonies do not set in until the seventeenth day. From that day onward the Mahdi, with his suite, used to appear in the cells, so as to amuse himself with the last agonies of his opponents. Thirst can kill, though, according to conditions ot temperature, in two, or at the most, three days, as I have unfortunately proved by experience. Under un- favourable conditions, indeed, a single very hot day may suffice to bring even an unladen native to the end ot his tether. 'I hree times have I suffered really badly from want of water. The first time, the caravan had been delayed in the neighbourhood of Xguruman and Xguaso-X yiro tor some days, on account of warlike operations. I had spent the whole day on the velt, hunting and making "•> Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika observations, in the scorching heat ot the sun, and sending a number of booty-laden carriers back into camp. At about ten o'clock a.m. my thirst}' throat had been refreshed In the last drop of boiling-hot water from the big hunting-flask, so that now I had to go thirsty until evening, when I was sure ot finding water in the distant camp. Hour after hour went by; all I saw enthralled me I was then a new-comer in the HI Dorado of the African /oology and made me forget my thirst. ( )n our return the unusual mishap befell me of my two remaining guides losing their way ; in the last-coming darkness we. plunged into the myriad labyrinths ot a thorn-thicket, and by nightfall, scratched and torn by the thorns, it was impossible to get any farther. \\ V had lost our bearings, had ended by wandering round in a circle, and now it became quite clear to me that we should be obliged to spend the night amidst the prickly pears. So we crouched down on a bare place a few feet broad, and as my toot knocked against a hard object, I looked and found it to be the halt- mouldered skull ot a buffalo, evident!} a victim of the rinderpest. In the hope ot" being heard in camp, 1 foolishly tired away almost all my cartridges, but in vain ; there was no answer. Pead-tired, in}- tongue literally cleav ot my mouth, I now crouched down trees grown over by creepers, mv L; in}' tour remaining cartridges. A monkey uttered his piercin:.;' yell; an o\vl replied. Listening, with strained ears, in the absolute darkness. With Flashlight and Rifle ^ we heard all around us a crackling and rustling in the leaves and dry branches. There were no trees that one- could climb ; it was impossible to take a step forward in the prickly thicket. Seated together, we wore through minute upon minute ; the hours stretched out interminably. Suddenly, to our terror, not farther than ten steps from us, there breaks out suddenly the howl of a hyajna. I lift my gun at once, but then the thought comes to me that I may perhaps need my few cartridges for sterner foes. We manage to drive the brute away by shouting and by throwing at it bits of earth and fragments broken from the buffalo- skull. But the " fissi " does not go far. It keeps circling round, howling for hours, kept at a distance by our shouting — a strange dialogue between beast of prey and human being in the lonely wilderness ! The hyaena's getting so near has reminded me ot how noiselessly lions and leopards could steal upon us, and vividly does the imaginary picture paint itselt over and over again in my mind's eye. But once more the pangs of thirst overpower every other feeling. My temples throb, my heart beats quickly and violently. Amongst the thousand thoughts and fancies that crowd feverishly through my brain, one thought is ever foremost: water! water ! What would I not give for a glass ot water ! I feel I would willingly give a third part of all my only worldly goods for a draught of water ! More; than that the half! No, the whole! Unconditionally! Cool, rushing streams, water-nymphs, and a thousand such apparitions does the tortured brain conjure up tor itself. But all is in vain, -* Stc'ilking Expeditions in the Xyika and I must thirst on — thirst on, like, my black companions, who brood upon it all in dull resignation. . . . I he pulse-beats grow ever weaker, less perceptible, and faster ; more agonising1 grows the thirst ; \ve ourselves more lethargic. . . . I he only useful possession at this midnight hour is one's 7i'f<7/w/, and the knowledge that in these circum- stances one must crush down ones feeling must set the coloured men an example ot patient endurance ot thirst, although their sufferings are not nearly so great as mine. Thus drag and linger the slow hours. The hya'iia remains on, but in the cud we scarce!}' notice it is there. As it everything had conspired against us, the sky, here in the proximity of the mountain-range, remains clouded and dark. 'I lie temperature keeps hot and VOL. ii. sScj i S With Flashlight and Rifle -* sultry ; the burning heat, which the soil has absorbed during the day, is undiminished — there is no dispersal of it through the atmosphere. Ah ! there at last sounds a well-known voice from the throat of a bird ; a little flying minstrel greets the coming morn with soft twitterings. Darkness goes at last, and at last (though still without an idea of the right direction) we can move onward ! After hours of this, after climbing trees to try to get our bearings, we at last find a dried-up river-bed which leads to our camp. Breathlessly we follow its course upwards, and the first little drop of water that we come to in the brook-bed affords us at- last the longed-for refreshment. To resume, the rhinoceros-track leads me now into an entirely arid part of the desert, apparently devoid of any of the higher forms of animal life, and takes me, hour by hour, further from the camp. Sometimes the rhino has taken its toll from the thorn-bushes Salvadora pcrsica and the taparidal, and has also rooted up some prickly aloes ; but apparently it was already fully fed when it took itself into the wilderness, and was chiefly occupied with the thought of its safety. There are a dozen places on the way where 1 might come across it — where the ranker plants grow in the torrent-bed, or in those oases where the Vernonia and " mpele-mpele " bushes grow ... it may appear close before me, snorting, at any moment. The wind is still favourable ; I do not abandon the pursuit ; a trail does not often last so well and yield so much possibility ! 590 -*• Stalking Hxpeditions in the Nvika Now we come; upon two sand-grouse (Plcroc/cs c.\~its/its) which rise far from the water in front of us, hut soon plunge in again not far oft with a splash. But when; has the long-sought pachyderm got to ? The sun's rays have already begun to slope westward when suddenly, on a very open space under a little acacia-tree, the rhino becomes visible. It has settled down, according to its custom, with its hinder parts close against the trunk, and its head forward. Now for a test ot nerves ! Accompanied only by im most trustworthy followers I approach the beast as cautiously as possible, and as it happens, for a wonder, not to be beset by ox-peckers, I succeed in getting up to within sixty paces. It at such moments one looks behind to give the gun-carrier a whispered order of any sort, it is intensely interesting to observe his staring, excited I, tee, which has "With Flashlight and Rifle -* all the greater effect upon a European because, in such circumstance:;, the white of the eyes stands out in the most extraordinary way against the dark skrn. The rhinoceros slumbers on without a suspicion of danger. The novice might take it for a white-ant hill, and the powerful horns for broken, dry branches. The colour- ing of the animal, which has rolled itself several times in the dust of the desert during its journey, is. perfectly toned to its environment ; the pointed ears keep shaking off the persistent little flies, and thus betray the fact that the colossal creature is alive. The animal is usually tormented by a very small, stinging blow-fly (which probably represents a new genus, most closely related to Lyperosia) discovered by me in the year 1903. In the year 1899 1 nad already found the M to- Nairobi rhinoceroses terribly tormented by ox-fly larvae, which, in the form ot a hitherto unknown species (Gyrostigma conjnngens}* accomplished their metamorphosis to the number of several hundreds in the stomach of the beast they infested. When one remembers that these disgusting parasites grow to an inch and a quarter long and half an inch broad, one can understand how much the rhinoceroses must suffer. My rhinoceros has not yet noticed the approaching enemy. I take another look at my rifle ; it has long been loaded and in order ; and nothing has come between the sight. Lit by the oblique rays of the sun, the great wild beast affords me an easy aim ; but it must not be able to reach us for any kind of attack before falling dead, since we 592 • -*> Stalking Expeditions in the \\ika have no covert of any description. ( )n the other hand, it shall not he murdered in its sleep, so there ring's out a short, loud cry from me. How unfamiliar sounds my o\vn voice to me in this tremendous solitude ! As if struck bv liedunin^, the rhinoceros leaps up with incredible rapidity, his ears pointed sharply forward, and offering me, half- obliquely, a c^ood aim. Mv shot rint/s out ! Puffing' and snorting like ;i steam- i >K N 1 I I it 11. or, 1 1 \i. YKKY (II I E\ engine, the beast flings himself round twice in a circle, seeking tor his toe;. I5ut already my rifle has spoken tor the second time, and simultaneously with the sound the mighty beast succumbs ; in the death-slru^'idc the heavy head falls with a thud once or twice upon the stony ground of the desert. I autiously I approach my fallen prey ; the little, blinking eyes induce me to administer a \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* death-shot in the ear, and feeble signs of the life which is still present are betrayed, as I expected, by this means. I have the skin of the head drawn off, but the horns have to be detached, a task in which my axe and side-arms do good service. At the least, an hour is required for the detaching in correct style of the two long horns, which are very thick at the base. The carriers load themselves anew with the best bits of flesh, and then the march back to camp is begun. This is reached some time after midnight ; my pedometer testifies to some 72,000 paces — a good per- formance in view of the climate, and only possible for those who have been in the country some months. In the dawn of an October day I once more leave the camp with a number of my men to ascend the higher tracts of the Donje-Krok in its southerly division. For some time I have been encamped at " Ngara na Lalla,'' in the Masai district of Matumbato. \Ve follow the brook for a long time. Then a pathless road leads through the slowly ascending foot-hills, intersected by dried-up torrent-beds, to the foot of the hills v, hich lie to the south of the gloomy Donje-Erok. There are numerous tracks and traces of animals which have watered at the brook during the night, and now have retreated again into the wide desert. Little- herds of Grant's gazelles, Thomson's gazelles, and impalla antelopes run oft here and there ; and I also come upon two or three pretty red-coloured antelopes. These are steinbok (Raphiceros ncnnianni}, which, exactly match- ing the red soil of the district in their colouring, let us come up very close to them before, cutting many capers, 596 --* Stalking Expeditions in the \\ika they suddenly take to flight, soon to disappear in the: dry desert grass. The firmament is clothed in cloudless blue ; the day will undoubtedly prove oppressively hot. The animal world is awake all around us, and especially near the brook. \Ve turn out a pair ot the immense ground- hornbill (Biicorims ca/jcr], the " ol munguk " of tiie Masai people, then a crowd of francolins, and also two large coveys ol guinea-fowl. In rising, these latter utter their indescribable, peculiarly metallic cry. The wise creatures soon plunge into the depths again and run off into safe quarters with, surprising rapidity. The rest of the bird-world is also most actively busy ; the air is thick with doves of different kinds ; the gurgle ot the turtle-dove, called "ndurgulju" by the Masai people, fills the air ; strong coveys ot sand-grouse tly very quickly over our heads to their drinking-places, or, already having drunk their fill, go back into the desert. 'I he bushes near the brook are alive with the humming and chirping ot legions ot little red Kaffir finches, which find here lots ot water and a generous least ot ripe grasses. My attention is now aroused by some curious birds, which turn out to be wood-hoopoes (frnsor scncga/aisit sowa/iensis), the "el gononi " ot the Masai people, whose shrill laughter, resounding through the. bush, is answered by the characteristic note ot the yellow hornbill (S/n: 'i}. They peer at us timidly and cautiou^K , making ott with slow, measured pace, and with peculiarly With Flashlight and Rifle -* stiff bearing. Hut when, hastening our steps, we get quite near to them, they take to flight. They begin by running along the ground, but then, despite their heaviness, they sail through the air on their mighty pinions with surprising lightness, and get quickly into shelter. But none of these creatures can arrest me in my march to-day. Only here and there do I delay a few minutes to observe some animal which particularly interests me. Thus my attention is caught now and then by pretty dik-clik antelopes (Madoqna kirki] gathered together by twos or threes. After two hours of wandering and the negotiation of a great many steep torrent-beds, often more than thirty-live teet deep, there suddenly appear in the rocky and thorny ground belonging to the hills which fringe the mountain-shelves, two greenish-grey antelopes, whose aspect forms a striking contrast to that of their fellows of the plain. These are the pretty little mountain antelopes, which take the place of the chamois in Africa — the klipspringer, called by the Masai " n' gnossoiru." The only European form of the antelope the chamois —is not found in Africa ; the: beautiful ibex, moreover, has only two representatives in the north of the continent. But widely dispersed over the Dark Continent is the hill- climbing klipspringer, with its curious hard-grained, stiti- haired pelt. The klipspringer demands most strenuous stalking from the hunter, and therefore fascinates him. This peculiar animal is found in many phases, and as those brought me from the Masai desert proved to be unknown to science:, 600 -* Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika Oscar Xeumann has described them, and named them Oreotragits sch i/lingti. These dwarf antelopes live in little parties of from six to eight, and also in pairs, both on the rutted mountain- slopes and sometimes in the caves ot the- high desert, and anywhere that heaps of rocks and stones, and even lava blocks, make- suitable; country for them. In Abyssinia klipspringers have been found at elevations of 10,000 ft. How high they climb in the Hast African mountain-chain I cannot say : but wherever rutted heights are interrupted by steep valleys, and wherever a meagre thorny tlora grows amid rocks and stones, there is the home ot the klipspringer. Like india-rubber balls, apparently living rather than springing, the graceful creatures move from rock to rock, now stopping still for some time with closely -gathered limbs, anon disappearing like shadows into their mountain strongholds with a clear whistle of warning, soon to emerge again on a fresh post ot observation, to watch the disturber ot their mountain peace. I>y a curious chapter ot accidents my photographs ot these lovely animals were all damaged except a tew which may serve to give some idea ot the pretty creatures. I o-day the klipspringers are particularly shy, and elude me continually in the drv grass. ( )nly one buck. in its (light trom my men mounting up !rom below, suddenly comes my way, and. while it peers down on me a moment trom its nick, gives me the chance ot a shot. My bullet hits it at a distance ot almost two hundred yards across the valley. 1 send two tru>ty carners back into the camp with the booty: and there 60; AYith Flashlight and Rifle -* the skin has to be prepared with the greatest care, for the hairs grow so loosely that, with the least inattention, they are sure to come out. Now we have to work up the mountain-slope, often painfully in the burning sun, on hands and feet. The rocks are already quite hot. Lizards and geckos eye us •curiously, instantly disappearing in the grass or in holes. The higher we climb the more plants and grasses we find that are not entirely withered by the sun. The eye ot the hunter soon perceives among the: rocks great accumulations of dunof. the nature of which tells of the O presence of numerous rock-badgers. And, in truth, this mountain wilderness is thickly inhabited by those miniature: hoofed animals of which the Bible speaks, and which zoology has, oddly enough, to class as relatives of the mighty rhinoceros. . . . Fate has arranged things very differently for these incongruous cousins. Thanks to their size and strength, the rhinoceroses ruled their broad lands for hundreds and thousands ot years ; no foe of equal girth challenged them in the struggle for existence. But at first, with the help of the poisoned arrow, and nowadays with the help of little bits of metal only some few millimetres in size, which ns of the: rhinoceroses, the rock-badgers, who live: in inaccessible mcky deserts, have had a better de-stiny. Living like rabbits, multiplying endlessly, timid anel cautious — the olel ernes, at any rate:, 604 -r> Stalking" Expeditions in the \yika putting the sportsman's patience to the hardest proof — they will survive for long ages the last rhinoceros on earth — perhaps even the human race. . . . This small game is not particularly interesting to the hunter, unless IK; tries a shot at one of the old fellows warming himself in the morning sun. If, in the pursuit of a zoological collection, one wishes to obtain a lan/e number of specimens of various ages, then, armed with an ordinary shot-gun, OIK- must be ready to sit still for hours tor hours may indeed elapse before the experienced old animals will leave their hiding-places and expose them selves to the gun. And when the game is hit, it must be dispatched before it can reach its rocky lair, for otherwise; it is irretrievably lost to the hunter. Thus the hunting ot rock-badgers seems to me to VOL. II. 00^ 10 With Flashlight and Rifle -*> have many points in common with marmot-hunting in the Alps. Like marmots, the rock-badgers seek the more low-lying parts of the desert in the rainy season. In the dry season of the year they return to their moun- tain-haunts, where they then always find some nourish- ment, even though it be meagre, in the grasses, leaves, and bushes. The rock-badger pays great heed to the warning whistle of the klipspringer, and one sometimes sees the two species living in the closest proximity, and evidently in friendly relations. I have constantly noticed how the tawny eagles (A guild rapax] make war upon the young rock-badgers. On the appearance of one of these eagles, which haunt the slopes of the mountains, the rock-badgers disappear as quick as lightning, and stay a long time in their warrens. They have also certain hiding-places in the rocks which offer complete security, and into these they retire in numbers at the approach of danger. Farther and farther upwards does my way lead me. The heat grows ever more intense, and very wearisome it is to make one's way up the mountain through the thorn-wooded valleys. But at last we have reached the ridge ot the first chain of hills, and already a wonderful prospect is opening over the vast wilderness. At our feet, in the middle of the ash-coloured velt, lies a long green strip —it is the course of the stream near which I have pitched my camp. Far in the distance, in the direction of its lower course, the presence of those periodic swamps — formed by the streams in the rainy season — is indicated by the reed-thickets, now yellowish and dry, 606 -* Stalking Expeditions in the Nyika which occur in a lon^, deep depression of the desert surface. Over them, near them everywhere, indeed, that the eye can reach the infinite desert shimmers in the throbbing li^ht. The whole vast region lies in a dazzling idow, intensified by the hot waves of air that ascend from it. Over and over again experience and common-sense have to be called in to correct the delusions of the eye, which constant!}" deceives itself with regard to the perspective. 1'or instance, while the eye supposes itself capable of seeing herds of <^ame down there, as a matter of tact. we can scarcely make out with the naked eye the bi^ surfaces of our tents below us in the cam]) we can only see them with the glasses. It is important that the tents should stand out well from their surroundins, so the With Flashlight and Rifle * arc stained with green oxide ol copper. A herd of elephants would barely be visible in their neighbourhood. How small and helpless does man appear in the midst of such stupendous manifestations of nature ! Never have I known a peace' more deep and sacred, never have I felt so intimately the beauty and the essential harmony of nature, as on the mountain-heights of the Masai-Xyika solitudes. Certainly I did not see in these forests the gorgeous violet-coloured beds of flowers which I found in the woods that girdle Kilimanjaro ; but. on the other hand, the trees, all overgrown and hung, as they were, with ferns {HyinaiopJiyllaccfc}, mosses, and garlands, presented a spectacle quite as remarkable. Next to the impenetrable bamboo-forests of another part of Africa, I have not been so impressed by anything as by these groves of trees, with their garlands of whitish, spectre-like lichens. Yolkens declares that these parasites in many cases kill the supporting tree. . . . But we may not long indulge in reflection. \Ye are now on the ridge of the foremost mountains, and our next business is to penetrate into the: actual gloomy mountain- tracts — more practicable from here: on account of the: elephant and rhinoceros tracks — e>f the Donje-Krok, which is tvve> thousand feet high. So it is a question ol straining every muscle. Streams e)f sweat must flow before: the- goal is reached. No other European has sought the-se silent mountain-forests before me ; only Cenint Teleki and von Hohnel, long years age), encamped at the foot of the: mountain on their memorable journey te> the: Rudolf and Stephanie Lakes. Doubly attractive, there- 608 -* Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika fore, doubly desirable and lull of promise, does an exploration of this mountain-world, and its secrets, appear to me. On our right there- stre:tch out long, grass-grown chains of hills, broken by steeply cut, elried-up stre-am- courses. Again we come upon a species of antelope which is not lounel in the elesert. First one, then two. and now a fourth specimen, are put to flight b\ us. All four antelopes were feeding openly in the valley when our appearance there surprised them. I hese were the handsome, curiously coloured mountam-reedbuck (( t'rri- ('(f/>rtr c/Kiulcri}, a species distinguished by unusually long tails, and in full sunlight looking almost whiter a t\pe of antelope whose discovery in Fast Africa by mysell was anticipated only by the American traveller Chanler. 60 u With Flashlight and Rifle -* A brace, consisting of a buck and a hind, adds two splendid specimens to my collection. Scarcely a single European museum has hitherto been able to boast of the possession of one of these antelopes, though in certain high-lying parts of the East African mountain-country they are by no means uncommon. Again I detach two carriers from my caravan for the transport of the game. With the others I now proceed south, in the direction of the highest peak of the mountain-chain. After half an hour mv eve discovers beneath our look- j s out, in a depression of the valley, some living creatures standing out plainly from the grassy ground, and I soon recognise them as elands ; but these tine antelopes would take me too much out of my way. So we go forward, often coming again upon klipspringers and mountain-reedbuck ; and in one of the valleys that we scramble through we perceive for an instant two fugitive bushbuck among the thickets. As soon as we have obtained a view-point on one: of the commanding, lofty, naked, rocky ridges, we see the Donje-Erok's own ridges stretching out before our eves, falling steeply towards the velt on the south, but in the north-west descending in a series of gradually lower hills, furrowed all over with valleys, and with many well-wooded heights. Two streams How down to north and east — both soon to disappear in the desert at the foot ot the mountain. I he traveller must clamber over the mountains for weeks before he can get any sort of idea of their actual conformation. As, following the mountain-ridges, we stride through 610 * Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika close, tall underwood, we conic.- at every step, as I had expected, upon the haunts of the rhinoceroses. Suddenly some huge animals rush oft suddenly, to my utter ama/ement, through the thicket close by ; and my rifle- bearer calls out behind me : " Umbogo, P)\vana ! " (" Hutialo, sir ! ") But they are not buffaloes (although in similar high regions on other hills of the desert I have found quite fresh buffalo-skulls) : they are again elands. This time I succeed in slaying a fine bull out of a herd of several. ( )n receiving my shot he springs into the air from all tour led, but succumbs after running a tr\v paces, and gives us the opportunity of adding to our commissariat a liberal provision of excellent venison. Kiht carriers are chosen to take the skin and the With Flashlight and Rifle -* horns back to camp. I have quite enough carriers— about twelve men — left with whom to continue my march and the exploration of the peak-forest, so that I need not burden myself with the kill. But, strangely enough, I now come — while marching at the head of my servants and carefully picking my way through bush and branches — almost directly, and quite unexpectedly, upon the first rhinoceros, a bull, rising from his lair about thirty paces in front of me ! I can only see the head and horns. The animal is standing motionless, trying to investigate the approaching foes, for the wind is in our favour. I did not expect to put up a " faru " so imme- diately after my shot at the antelope ! Of course it was lying in a hollow, and the thicket surrounding us may well have entirely deadened the sound of the gun, or else the rhinoceros mistook it for thunder. Instinctively my people stand as still as pillars of salt, for I make no movement, except the lightning-quick snatch at my rifle. Then the " faru " flings round ; it escapes to the mountain-slope with a clatter, and we see it no more. I had no intention of killing it, nor did its very ordinary pair of horns especially tempt me. But more carefully now we take our way, step by step, through the thicket, looking out most cautiously, and straining our ears to the utmost. Soon we come upon a whole lot of fresh rhinoceros- lairs, hollowed out from the ground like ostrich-nests, and often showing traces of recent use. Most rhino- ceros-lairs are found under shade-giving bushes, but 61 2 -•> Stalking Expeditions in the Nyika some arc quite in the- open ; these latter are used chiefly when the sky is clouded and the temperature cool. Now we have to be very careful with each step we take. Every animal that gets up before us now — bush- buck are tolerably frequent here — of course makes us \\ KAKI.Y MMKMNC; riioTor.kAHi <>i WATKKUUCK, ccKinrsi.Y I.IKK KTKOI'I-'AN KKH I>KKK Al A 1 )I >TA N ('!•'. stand still with bated breath, until we- arc: sure that it is not a rhinoceros. When the undergrowth thins a little-, we can proceed with less caution. IUit we come again and again, on these mountain-ridges, upon thickets in which, as I have said, any number of rhinoceros- lairs are to be found. The thickets are much grown over with the woodbine (Clematis snnciisis} called b the Masai ol orianene " —whose leathery, white-flowering standards 6 With Flashlight and Rifle -+> are to be seen everywhere. Very frequent also are some different kinds of Composites, much liked by elephants, and a leguminous plant, beloved of tree-badgers, called by the Wandorobo " mukuna." Wherever there is an open outlook we can see the silent, mighty desert, glowing in the sun's rays, at our feet. Above our heads the tall trees arch, decked fantastically with those long, waving, white garlands of lichens. Rest and holy calm prevail in these dark mountain-forests. Even the bird-world is but sparsely represented, and, besides bushbuck, it is only now and again that we see anything of the antelope family — such as those quaint dwarf members of it, the duikers, mostly belonging to Sylvicapra ocn/ans, with their fabulously long ears. 6 1 4 Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika Standing motionless, they peer lor a moment from the undergrowth at the intruders, and then disappear in the thick scrub. Xow we hear a snorting beneath us in an open space in the valley. Two rhinoceroses, which have evidently marked our approach tor some time, but have lingered to investigate us thoroughlv bv means of their sense of smelL O «t * * break out, snorting like steam-engines, and at first make- directly tor me;, but then suddenly swerve, so that they go crosswise over our path, and disappear in the valley at the other side. Both monsters go raging thus over a perfectly open clearing, not further than fitly paces from me. lilting up their heads, which are ornamented with two enormous horns, and tossing them continually trom side to side. 01 ^ With Flashlight and Rifle -* Rifle full-cocked, I await their onset, while my people seek covert right and left behind the tree-trunks. But I rejoice to say that no attack is made. Crashing, stumbling, and snorting, we can hear them for quite a long while making their way down the mountain-side, and then, with more caution than ever, I set forward again. But does fate intend me to come right on top of rhinoceroses every two hours, or will the animals have remarked our proximity and made their escape before we reach their resting-places ? Climbing one of the highest rocks, I give myself up for half an hour to the joy of admiring the glorious, far-stretching prospect of the vast desert. When we move on a little way towards the second peak, we suddenly find ourselves in the midst of such an indescribably dense bush that we are unable to see more than a few feet in front of us. Keeping our bearings with difficulty, we wind along through the thicket. Just as I am creeping on my hands and knees through a maze of branches, there comes a snorting to right and left of me, quite close, and the branches crackle and break. An enormous rhinoceros is coming at me ! With unheard-of good luck I succeed in sending a bullet almost straight into its ear, killing the huge beast on the spot. At the same moment two other rhinoceroses come thundering by, quite close to me ; they suddenly, however, stand stock still in the thicket, snorting violently, on the alert. A few yards to the left the first leviathan lies in the throes of death. I hold the gun directed straight 616 Stalking Expeditions in the \vika at his head, not sure tli.U a final shot may not l»c necessary; at the same tune I keep a watch upon th< AYith Flashlight and Rifle *> other two creatures ! Some seconds thus elapse, in the most terrible suspense. Again there is a crashing noise in the thicket before me, but neither of the two monsters attempts a fresh onset ; on the contrary, both of them clatter away to the right into the valley. A number of my men, despite the dense undergrowth, had vanished, as if swallowed up by the ground. Now they come creeping back from all directions, consternation on every face, and they try to persuade me that it is impossible to go on, since even the Wandorobo and Wakamba dare not penetrate farther into the bush. But I persist in my intention, and we press forward as soon as the horns of the dead rhinoceros have been detached. The rhinoceros family evidently consists of a cow, an already well-grown youngster, and the bull that I have slain. I now attempt another method of pursuing my way unmolested. I try to keep away the rhinoceroses, firing rifle-shots here and there into the bush. This succeeds for a while, but in such circumstances every cartridge is priceless. Moreover, I am attacked again, alter two more hours, by three rhinoceroses, and this time in a most unpleasant fashion. The beasts, which had already come out of their lairs, allowed us to approach almost within touching distance. And I certainly must attribute my salvation solely to the tact that the wind was most favourable to us, so that I succeeded at the last moment in stretching two of the brutes on the ground, with a shot in their necks, while the third, by great good luck, was put to (light. 618 * Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika But this time I could not prevent the four armed Askans who were with me from likewise firing off their rifles in their terror, and after that my people would not stir a step further with me. Curiously enough, I was able to point out to them distinctly, on the carcases of the rhi- noceroses, that their Mauser bullets had entirely missed their aim ; only one had hit. but too far back, and not on a vital part. I frankly confess that my own nerves somewhat gave way, and that a certain fury against the pachyderms took hold of me. These feelings were coupled with one of distress at being obliged to slay so uselessly, and therefore I sought in one: of the wooded, brook-threaded valleys a place to sleep for the night. 'I o my surprise, clouds had been gathering for some time — tor even in the dry season this lofty chain of mountains can condense a certain quantity of moisture. Suddenly there splashed down from the gloomy pile a short but heavy local shower, which did not, of course, fall upon the thirsty vclt. but only on the high peaks of this mountain-region. As suddenly as the ram be^an it has ceased. A big lire is kindled from a lot of dry twigs, and I cii)oy a refreshing bath in a pool formed by a forest-stream, and shaped like the arena of a circus. But the first thing to be done is to destroy in different ways the rhinoceros tracks, which cross each other from every side of the valley. This is achieved to within some hundred paces of our encampment, and everywhere around the \\ando- robo who are with me cast their spells, to keep away rhinoceroses and other animals at night. V( >!.. II. 02 I 17 With Flashlight and Rifle <* A frugal supper, which tastes very good after all the exertions of the: day, is prepared from the; flesh of the eland roasted on the: spit ; ami refreshing sleep soon embraces myself and the: men who are ncjt keeping watch. Up here, in the pure air of the mountain-forest— very different from that of my camp on the fever-breeding velt— one sleeps doubly well. But not less than three times in the night we are all awakened suddenly by the snorting of rhinoceroses in our proximity. We spring- up, and a long time elapses before the angry pachyderms disappear, still uttering snorts that echo hideously through the forest. The next morning sees me returning to the camp by a different path. This time we climb down to the valley by the southern declivities of the mountain-chain. Rock- badgers and klipspringers are visible, also two huge herds, of baboons ; and now that 1 have: no longer any desire te> shoejt antelope, the birds afford me many a fine specimen tor my collection. Gorgeously coloured turacos, in par- ticular, scuffling in the: foliage, are soon added to my spoils. When, half-way to a rocky plateau, I halt and investi- gate the: desert below me with a Goerz-Trialder glass, I perceive numerous little ele>ts, which prove to be large: herds of wild animals. Whe:n we: come: some: hundred yards nearer to the foot of the: mountain, great crowds of gnus, zebras, and impalla antelopes come: out tor the midday drink, and allow me, now that 1 am not hunting them, to pass within a few liuiulre-el paces. More than once: 1 have maele incursions into the higher regions of the; Donje-Erok la Matumbato, but 622 * Stalking Expeditions in the Xyika at last I have abjured it. It is too painful for the sportsman to have to proceed like a murderer for the sake of his own safety, yet if he did not he would unquestionably i^o to his certain death in these thickets! Elephants enjoy a kind of indirect protection, which even the expert would not suspect. It happens in this wav. The rhinoceroses — which, according to all the: r ....... ^ _•... ! HOI MV MI.N I'll I-II.I. I I' \\II1I I IIOKN-MKAM'IIK-; \NI> IWIllS MANV HI- Illl. MfRDKKnrs ril-l \I.|> IN \\llli II I UK NATIVE^ KNTKAI" I II I. \MMAI- nalix'es, are by no means friendly towards elephants continually battle the elephant-stalker by their frequent presence in mountain-forest s of the desert. I'or a single shot thunders through the hills and breaks into manifold echoes, and this is enough to set the wily elephants moving about noiselessly in all directions and setting manv miles between themselves and their pursuers. 025 With Flashlight and Rifle -* In the rainy season you will scarcely come across a single rhinoceros on the mountain-plateau ; they are then scattered about the velt. But in the: dry season it is almost impossible to penetrate into the thickets of that hill country, as the description of this stalking expedition of mine shows very plainly. I should never have dreamt that it was such a veritable rhinoceros-preserve ; but for well-read zoologists this information will not be in the least surprising, for they are all conversant with the descriptions of Thomson, Count Teleki, Chanler, Donald- son-Smith, and, to close the list, von Ho'hnel (who was attacked by a rhinoceros and badly injured). These and many other travellers came across almost incredible: numbers of rhinoceroses in certain districts. Everything here recounted by me of the Donje-Erok applies to all the corresponding mountain-ranges of the Masai-Xyika and Ndasekera, and the Uonje-Krok la Matumbato is by no means especially rich in " faros." How quickly, though, these conditions may alter is most strikingly exhibited by the fact that so keen an observer as Professor Yolkens never came in contact with a rhinoceros, in a stay of almost two years on Kilimanjaro, although his botanical excursions took him all round the mountain.1 Some years before his time the first com- mandant of Moshi, Mr. Khz, had killed two-horned rhinoceroses by scores. And since then the Government Askaris had snared this great wild beast for years in their hunting expeditions. 1 Yolkens, Her Kiliniandjaro. 626 Night-Shoots IX an earlier chapter I have already given some reasons why night-shoots in Equatorial Africa have in them much to deter the hunter, enticing as they may seem in Europe. In man\~ cases it is not possible to arrange a "raised ambush' in trees, and many wild animals — sometimes even lions -arc too timid to approach closely an " ambush which is right down on the ground; so that the sports- man is altogether too dependent on the way the wind is blowing. The attacks of insects of various kinds, above all ot ants, are another horrible nuisance'. Nothing in the tropics is more weakening to the body, and more likely to expose it to the attacks ot lever, than the loss ot ones most necessary night's rest. All the same. 1 advise every one who is entering upon the study et animal lite, to undergo once or twice the minute hard- ships ot a night-shoot, tor the sake ot its ta-cination. 027 With Flashlight and Rifle * Yes, such an adventure has, indeed, an indescribable fascination. Far from the camp, in the moonlit, solitary wilderness, to dare await the manifestations of the life of these wild denizens of the forest — to what sportsman, just beginning his career, would not this present an irresistible attraction? 1 have several times attempted the "raised ambush," as well as the ambush in a thorn-thicket. And I have been rewarded for all my troubles, less by the hunting trophies I have secured than by the wealth of observations that I have been enabled to make. I will refer the reader to the most veracious and highly graphic descriptions by Count Coudenhove of his night-ambushes for lions in Somaliland.1 As he confesses, in simple, straightforward words : "I then learnt what fear really was." That was my experience. Will the reader, then, follow me and my tried and trusty black companion into my carefully arranged thorn- ambush, the entrance to which is closed behind us by some other servants by means of thorn-branches, and in which we are finally left alone? Three loopholes in three different directions give me openings for my shots. With the coverings we have brought along, we make ourselves as comfortable as may be. I have selected my position so that I can count upon seeing lions as well as wild beasts of other kinds, even rhinoceroses, going to the water. After a while the sun is already setting — there appear before us in the drv prass. their heads held verv hi<>~h, three fine, * O - *> yellow-throated francolins ; but the wily birds have 1 Count Hoyos, '/.it licit Auliluuis. 628 Niht-Shoot s already espied us, and vanish in a second. Doves, which have come in crowds to roost over the water, flutter ceaselessly here and there;, seeking suitable covert in the thorny branches. Now resounds the cry of a little; pearl screech-owl ; its cadence;, almost exactly following the scale, rings out clearly over the now moonlit landscape. Unfortunately the moon is not at the full. Never- theless, it lights up the; surroundings, in the clear tropical atmosphere, in a way that would only be possible for the full moon in our home; latitudes. The uncertain glimmer of a moonlight night dances amid the trees and branches ; nocturnal insects hum around ; the leaves and dry wood rustle everywhere. There; breaks out ove-r our heads the; laughter of a family e>f galagos {Otoleitntr crassiaiiidiitus] suddenly awakened. The tops e>f a little cluster e>f tree's make' an abode tor the;se le;murs fe>r many weeks at a time-, and thefr extraordinary sere -am mg resounds the; whole night through. So time; ge>ejs by ami we: wait in strained attention. 1 he: big ox, which is tie'el up quite- close to us, has now grown accustomed to its e-nvironme-nt ; it begins to munch the grass thrown ne-ar it, evide-mly reassured by our proximity. At first it trie;d seve:ral time's, with much snorting, to get live-. It it had succeeded in this it would have made a hue-line tor the ramp iwhie'h is not far oft) and its comrades le-tt behind there-: but instinctive sagacity cause's it to suppivss any lowing and calling te> them. An hour has one: b. At the water a herd o! ante- With Flashlight and Rifle -* lopes appears in blurred outline against the dark background of the sedge-thicket. They seem to be waterbiick, coming from their hiding-places on to the open level for food, and they soon disappear in the background. I begin to experience a certain fatigue, but I struggle against it. Nor do I permit any sleep to my companion ; the inevitable snoring of the negro (for that matter, even too heavy breathing) might be audible to sharp ears. Another hour has passed. Suddenly I perceive on my right, not far from me, a large dark object which I had not noticed before, and which is lightly and noiselessly approaching my ambush and the watering-place. Without a halt the dark, mighty mass comes nearer and still nearer. Now I can plainly see that there are two objects, one in front of the other. They stand opposite me, not more than one hundred and fifty paces ofl. They are rhinoceroses, full-grown ones, coming here to drink. How inwmtic thev look bv moonlight ! An old childish O O s j O memory suddenly comes back to me : how my father's keeper, when he missed some sitting hares, apologised by saying that he always saw them too big! — as big as camels ! Moving along obliquely to the water, they have now come to a spot at most a hundred paces away, and stop still once more, listening — then they go up to the brink, instantly to vanish in the sedge; and the marsh-vegetation. For a while I can hear them splashing about ; then there is no further sound. It is not surprising to me, but to the new-comer it would be astounding, to observe the perfect silence in which these mighty pachyderms contrive to 632 * Night-Shoots move on terra jirma ; the acutest ear could not have detected their approach. The vague outlines of a small animal, probably a jackal, rise not long afterwards trom the ground near the: water ; and after some time: a mournful yelp in the same direction confirms my conjecture. . . . Evidently the anticipated antelope-herd has found out another drinking-place this evening. . . . Hours go by, broken only by the sound of the ox, imperturbably chewing its grass. . . . Suddenly it snorts twice very quickly, as it terrified ; a big grey object darts at it quick as an arrow, with a loud clatter, and ox and lion — for that is what it is— are rolling together before my eyes next minute in a cloud of dust ! I have an idea that another lion has, trom the other side, joined in the brief tussle. Then there is a rattling and a groaning . . . the ox is lying on the ground, and over it are the two beasts ol prey, which instantly begin their meal. But. as it" a wixard were meddling with the affair, the moon now darkens over suddenly. All is darkness; and the only sound is the cracking of bones, the tearing and rending ol flesh between teeth. The stillness of the night still reigns all around. 1. ntroubled by the drama being played out down here, a galago breaks out again, yelling and laughing. \\ hat does he care, sate in the shelter ol his tree-tops, lor the struggle on the ground1 Mosquitoes, humming and buxxing, are besieging me now; their stings become unbearable. I he lions proceed with their meal inuhs turbed. I am possessed by a peculiar complication ol With Flashlight and Rifle * feelings, compounded of curiosity, suspense, and a thousand contused fancies. So minute after minute goes by. At last the moon comes out again ; and now, since I can make no more new observations, I seize the opportunity of firing on one of the lions. But I have no luck to-day. With the report both lions vanish in the darkness, and I, much depressed, remain in my ambush. The next hours of waiting are in vain ; nothing more happens. Even the usually ubiquitous hyamas seem to be absent to-night, and when the morning breaks I return to the camp, feeling as if broken to pieces, stung all over by mosquitoes, and with that peculiar sensation which unmistakably heralds an attack of fever. I was not deceived, and for two days I am confined to camp by a bad attack of malaria. On the third day is found the skeleton of a lioness — which I had hit -a long way from the camp. Everything but the bones had already been consumed by the vultures and hyajnas. . . . Many and many a night-ambush in the tropics will be just like this one ; and attractive as they may appear to the sportsman at home, he will find he cannot go in for them much in the African wilderness. Certainly I have obtained in this way many an interesting and important glimpse of the nocturnal habits of wild creatures ; but shooting at a few paces, from the safe shelter of an ambush, is not a thing which appeals to me much. 634 I-'KMALK f, KANT S < i.V/.KI.I.KS T. \KI.Ni; I'D ILICHT XXIX Velt Conflagrations *YKRY year a lar^e portion of the Kast African \^ ^ velt is devastated by j^reat conflagrations. Coal- black tree-trunks arc: seen where the rainy season had left all fresh and ^reen. I^verythin^" has been cjuicklx burnt by the whirlwind of flames that has rushed through the district. At the commencement of the drought you see at nightfall a spot of lire here an 1 there in the distance. I he small red <^lo\v increases until the \\hole iion/on is abla/e. I hese arc: conflagrations in j)lac'es where the ;_;rass is already dried up, perhaps on the slopes of distant hills, which burn ni^'ht alter ni;^ht h'n'hting up the country lor miles. \\hc-re\-er prairies are in Africa this state of things is found. Mv friend 1 )r. Richard kandi, the disco\'erc;r ot th<' sources of the Nile, has the same tiling to tell u> about ('entral Alrita in his remarkable- book ( df>n I A///. \\hen the dryness has become general, th<- natixc himself as wc-11 ,is the traveller will often iiLdit ,i lire, so With Flashlight and Rifle -•> as to find a way more easily through the destroyed grass. Directly the first sudden rain falls, fresh green pastures appear very quickly. It is not the case that (ires burn with such extra- ordinary rapidity that neither man nor beast has time to escape, as one often hears related in descriptions of travels. But for hours, days — even weeks— the mighty conflagra- tion will progress, destroying all in its way, whether grass or shrubs ; sometimes even bringing giant trees to the ground by the persistent licking of its tongues of flame. When a great tree has been treated like this it will lie on the hard, dry ground ready for the next year's conflagration. A few days later, if the wind has not been too strong, the traveller will see a complete sketch, so to speak, of the tree and its branches outlined by the ashes on the ground — a strange memento mori\ The next wind will sweep all away, and no sign of the great fall will remain. When the fire burns for hours at a stretch across the plains, then comes the great feast-day for all kinds of animals. And marabous, storks, cranes, birds of prey of all kinds, especially kites, swoop down on the half-burnt locusts or grasshoppers and other small creatures, which now fall to their lot. You see other birds, too, such as the gaily coloured rollers, various kinds of swallows, the black "birds of sorrow," snatch their booty from the midst of the hissing flames with extraordinary dexterity. These creatures all know by experience that the fire is nothing very dreadful, 636 --* Yelt Conflarations but quite ;in ordinary occurrence, from which much i^ is to he j^ot. The mammals of the velt tlee hurriedly from the flames, to come back after a short \vhile to the same I • M lil.l I.ISIIINi; II I < i use of camels. The carrier system is far preferable cer- tainly in the regions over which I travelled, where I found my men zealous and devoted. Each carried his load of sixty pounds or more. There are endless difficulties and an endless amount of detail connected with a caravan of pack-camels. Few have had so comprehensive an experience with regard to the conveyance of caravan-loads by camels and mules as the late Baron Carlo Erlanger (whose early death is a matter for deep regret) ; his bold expedition through the south of Sornaliland will maintain a place of honour in the history of African exploration ; or as Oscar Neu- mann, during his journey of two years in Abyssinia and Somaliland. And these two travellers found that, apart from all the trouble involved in the loading of this kind of caravan, the way the animals suffered from varieties of climate was a strong argument in favour of carrier caravans. The camel is an ideal means of transport over the arid desert, but not in countries where the climate varies. Human carriers I found, when properly taken care of, were always ready for the road in the shortest possible time — were willing, unexacting, and, above all, extra- ordinarily reasonable. Travellers will always be obliged to depend largely upon this institution, for the character of the arid desert country must prove an insuperable obstacle to the railway projects already in progress. The traveller is soon at ease in his mind as to the capability of these natives. Either they themselves know the caravan- routes exactly, or they learn them en route, and manage 646 * I lost ilc Forces to arrive at their destination on the very day appointed, even alter journeys of weeks and months. Of course, my kind of expedition was a different matter. \Ve went into unknown and uninhabited parts of the velt. My most difficult problem was that of" our food-supply. Resides his sixty-pound load, his cookin<_(- utensils, and his lew personal possessions, a man cannot carry more vegetable food than will last for a fortnight or three weeks. In practice he will !_n:nerally have none of it left after twelve or fourteen days. Therefore; all the arrangements lor the journey must be made in such a way that food is always obtainable. Water must, of course, be come upon daily, or at least every forty - eij^'ht hours; tor the earners capability for work depends very much on the temperature, and in hot weather a man cannot carry his load farther than a day's journev without water. In the <4"ood old times people went, according to report, rio'ln through the desert depending solely upon the j^ame they killed lor tood. I he servants, camp once reached, swarmed in all directions through the desert in pursuit of antelopes and other j^ame. Bui though I, too, L^'ive my servants a certain quantity of meat, I nevertheless most sternly insisted that every man should daily receive a corresponding (]iiantity ol vegetable tood. I his often with the greatest ditt'iculty and expense I somehow always managed to accomplish. I nfortunately it is not always done by caravan-leaders; but instead, tile ^ame is shot down m the most irresponsible tashion. . . . In the famine year of" iSoo 1900 this method ot mine 040 \Yith Flashliht and Rifle involved considerable outlay ; for far and near there were no means of nourishment to be had, and I was therefore forced to rely solely on rice — which meant getting Indian rice, at a great expense, a long way up from the coast. This kind of thing makes expeditions terribly difficult for private people. If, on the contrary, harvests have been good, it is not difficult to barter for maize or beans, and so forth, with the natives, and thus to keep the caravan-servants feel. The equipment and arrangement of a caravan of about one hundred and twenty carriers always means several days of most strenuous labour. The loads must be parcelled out ; to every man must be given his set task ; the Askaris have to be clothed, drilled, and tested in every way. So day after day goes by, till at last all is apparently ready. The least negligence in the equipment of a caravan will sooner or later avenge itself on the road, probably far from all human help. My complicated and multifarious photo- graphic equipment — the chemicals, instruments, and many other things — demanded a most careful disposition of the most trifling details. In many cases I had to carry double supplies, in case a load should be lost in the fording of a river, or in any other way. Xow at last, however, the " Satari " starts forth into the desert — at first by short marches, so as to accustom the carriers, but gradually increasing to thirty kilometres and more in the day. Many troubles have still to be gone through. A certain number of carriers always, during the first few clays of the expedition, lay down their loads upon the caravan-road and dash into the bush with 650 -*> Hostile Forces the earnest- money which they h;ive already received. These " wapagazi " have to be replaced — but, it possible, the fugitives should, tor discipline's sake, be pursued. At last, however, there emerges from the gross number of recruits a body of servants who are useful and trustworthy in every respect, and who prove themselves equal to the manifold hardships of the expedition. The traveller now comes daily into closer and closer relation with, and soon dominates, a number of men who are devoted to him and obedient to his slightest gesture. It was a matter ot much satisfaction to me that I was otten able to re- engage' a number of my old servants, whom I always found willing and ready to come with me. One of the chiet difficulties of a zoological collecting- expedition lies in the troublesome task ot taxidermy, especially in the case1, of the larger specimens. Often the entire cam]) has to spend several days in the. preparation of the skins of buffaloes and giraffes, elephants and rhinoceroses. When at last sufficient material has been stored, it has to be packed in loads with the most anxious care, ticketed, and finally — alter very serious consideration of the probability ot a wet spell occurring on the- way sent to the coast. Laden with reserve stores and supple- mentary loads the carriers then return to the veil but often not for weeks and months. In all these matters one must go to work with ones own hands. 1 he carriers, even in little secondary matters, need constant control and encouragement. Hut, granted this, they work of course, with the strictest limitation to their own special duties in the most satisfactory fashion. v< )L. n. 0=; ; HI With Flashlight and Rifle -* The reverses of fortune, for which every traveller must be prepared, will now perhaps begin to come about. The tsetse-fly sting's and kills the animals which have been brought along for riding, and a number of the pack-mules ; they and the cattle succumb to all sorts of epidemics. But it is even worse when we are obliged to traverse regions in which small-pox, for example, has followed in the wake of famine. In the year 1899 I was obliged to go through localities in which the. " ndiii " had reigned. About three weeks afterwards, I noticed one day in camp that there was on my left hand a little dark ulcer — an inflammation, I was sure, which had been caused by some arsenic-like quality in the stuff used for taxidermy. I showed it to my taxidermist, Orgeich. " I will tell the Herr what that is. That's the black pock." When I asked him why he thought so, he told me without circum- locution that for some days a carrier, very ill indeed with small-pox, had been in camp. " I would not frighten the Herr," he told me laconically ; and that was his only reason for having made no communication to me about this sickness ! This announcement — made in the Rhenish dialect — was anything but agreeable to me. 1 then ascertained that there really was a native covered all over with small-pox. Of course 1 had him isolated and put in a thorn-enclosure by the river, impenetrable to beasts of prey ; and, surprisingly enough, there was no other appearance of the disease in the caravan. When a doctor, later on, examined the patient (who was then cured), he confirmed my diagnosis. 654 -* Hostile Forces lUit I had weirse experiences -dysentery, for instance;, breaking out badly among the natives. It is terrible; when this frightful elisease spre-aels through a camp. It appears cjuite suddenly, perhaps through some infected water which has been te)o unrestrictedly used ; ami even Euro- peans can only partially protect themselves from it through careful boiling ot their drinking-water. Twice have I myself suftere-d from elysentery, ami know from experience; how difficult it is to achieve a radical cure;, and how hard it is lor any one; to avoid errors of eliet eluring the convalescent perioel. Dysentery is justly more elreaeleel than malaria. It the; ehse;ase; breaks out among the; natives, it may, in ce-rtain circumstances, endanger the; whole expedition. For we;eks one has to do without the; services ot one's most useful men, and there are- deaths within a tew elays. " Amekula, P>wana ! " (" lie; is eleael. master!") announces the; caravan-guide : a grave; is shove-Heel out in the vie-inity, and there is a hasty burial haste- is imperatively demanded by the; conditions ot temperature-. In one instance I was only able; to che;ck an epidemic of this frightful disease; by altering in all haste my whole plan of campaign, and seeking tor new watering- places. I have seen some; remarkable recoveries, \\hile two doctors, who happened to be; slaying in my camp, were treating one of my most useful servants, he got no be;tteT ; at last he refused all European medicines, and got well, alter having lived lor lourteen days on nothing but weak tea ! Malaria is another irreat hindrance. \e-ar the caravan- With Flashlight and Rifle -* routes, and in the vicinity of the populated neighbour- hoods, my people suffered much oftener and more severely from malaria than on the velt, although this latter is very unhealthy for Europeans and for inhabitants of the mountain-regions. At certain camping-places, ten, twenty, or even more, among my servants would suddenly fall sick with malaria, which, however, they usually got over in a fairly short time. The opinion is wide-spread in Europe that the natives do not suffer from malaria. This is not only not the case, but the dwellers in the mountain-regions are liable to very severe attacks when they go down into the plains. I have seen the greater number of a band of Wadshaga men who were sent down to the plains for lime-burning, suffer quite unusually badly from malaria when they returned home again after some days' stay in the lowlands, and a great number of them succumbed within a few days. In the famine-year of 1899, I could not obtain Wapare, inhabitants of the Pare mountain-chain, at any price, to carry my zoological specimens to the coast, although the people were eager to earn something. They even declared themselves only prepared to take my loads to a certain point near the coast ; the sight of the sea, they said, would mean death to them ! This fancy was not without a certain foundation in fact, for everywhere; the highlanders are liable, as has been said, to frequent and severe attacks of fever when once they descend to the plains. Injuries of various kinds, feet-troubles especially, 656 A ROCKY l'\- -*> Hostile Forces hurts of any sort on the shins, disable the carriers from time to time. Hut, in general, wounds heal well and quickly with them, when properly treated, owing to their extraordinary capacity for making " new flesh." Corrosions with carbolic acid prove specially effective for the ulcers in the lower part of the thigh which frequently occur among the Masai men ; though these when treated by the native " medicine men," and covered with bark, often have a very alarming aspect. When the caravan had made a halt and camp was pitched, there constantly arrived a number of patients to ask for my assistance. I cannot remember ever having sent away a single man, although the patience of the traveller, when he is fatigued or ailing, is often put to t"> O a very hard test in this way. " Hwana, kubwa. nakata daua ! " Master, I should like some medicine! Over and over again one hears it. And then it is a question of giving aloes to one, and pills to another, castor-oil, ipecacuanha, eye-salve or bandages or something else to a third, while a vessel with antiseptic is always ready for the treatment ot wounds and other miunes. Another dreadful scourge are the sand-flies (.V?r- cof>$\l/a penct rans], which have only recently penetrated to the coasts of Fast Africa. These parasites were brought some; decades ago from South America to the West Coast of Africa. Following the caravan-routes, they gradually spread to the Central African lakes, where; I found them in great numbers in the year iSoo. 1 he tiny little sand-fly penetrates, at first unnoticed. With Flashlight and Rifle -•> into the toes or fingers, gradually swells to the size of a pea, and propagates itself, if not removed in time, in o;reat numbers, till at last the limbs which have been O attacked putrefy and fall off In every region where the sand-fly occurs, many natives are to be seen who have lost a toe, or perhaps all their toes, and have to go about on crutches. It is astonishing how little one notices sand-flies at first, and how quickly, when they have been removed, all traces of the hollows they made in the toes disappear. The " Fundi ya funza" (in English, " Sand-fly doctors") are very clever at removing them almost painlessly by means of little sticks. The sand-fly settles not only on human beings, but also on monkeys, dogs, and other beasts. It appears to me worth investigation whether the parasite, when once spread all over the country, may not have a fatal effect upon the existence of many wild animals. Even my young rhinoceros was attacked by sand-flies, and it required no little patience to keep it free from the dangerous parasites during its siesta. Since the year 1896 the sand-fly has extended its operations with alarming rapidity, and it is now to be found everywhere on the East Coast, and not seldom in the interior. Camping-places, where my caravan stayed for any length of time, often became infested to such an extent that I had to quit them on this account. I continually hear the opinion expressed that Europeans can protect themselves against sand-flies by wearing 660 -* Hostile Forces high-legged boots. As if these tiny pests could not easily crawl into the boots from above! II ere; and there, in spite of all my precautions, I have found them on my own body. Hut my worst experience ot them was when I was confined to bed ior a long time alter a heavy attack of fever ; no less than seven sand-Hies, as lar^e as peas, were: removed from my toes by erne- of my black boys Dogs and monkeys in e-aptivity are- very skilful in relieving themse:l\es ot" the-se; odious pests ; but they always gel infested again. I )uring my many years ot African travelling I have never had mue'h trouble trom flies -with the exception of the- tsetse:-tly -anel never found the fly-pest in any way so distressing as in some places on the Somali Coast. 00 I With Flashlight and Rifle •+> Certain kinds of stinging-flics arc very prevalent during their swarming season. The flies and dragon- flies of East Africa have, for the most part, been but little investigated. From my last tour alone, I was able to bring home two new kinds of stinging-flies, hitherto entirely unknown. Undoubtedly the most distressing for human beings is the tsetse-fly, which is positively fatal to horses, mules, and asses, and which appears at a certain time of the year. I cannot confirm the idea that certain parts of the velt are free from the tsetse-fly. Though the high plains are free from it, I found the tsetse remarkably prevalent in localities where it had not hitherto been suspected, especially by the Pangani River in March and April. A traveller whom I know told me that he once slept in his tent in the daytime with an open wound in his arm, and the day after found fly-maggots in it — an experience, certainly, that I have never had myself. Troublesome and somewhat frequent visitors to the tent are scorpions. Their virulence is much exaggerated, though their sting always has some disagreeable results. One of my carriers delighted in putting big scorpions, which he used to catch, upon his shaven head, and letting them move about there for some time, amidst the laughter of his comrades ! The traveller often suffers much inconvenience from white ants. If I happened to stay in a camping-place for any length of time, I often found that, even after a few days, the bottoms of my travelling-cases would be destroyed by white ants ! Once, ants ate away in this fashion a 662 -•> Hostile Forces whole row of the tickets on my heaps of zoological preparations — and that in a single ni Hostile Forces this respect it should be carefully borne in mind that, at times of great heat, water-pools will be dried up with quite astounding rapidity. Or again, for example, if a herd of" elephants should suddenly visit a big pool, they may not only drink the greater part of it, but may turn it in one night into a miniature bog, whose scanty liquid contents will quickly disappear before the rays of the sun. In expeditions like mine, however, one will get into difficulties about water ill spite of all precautions. 1 cannot too urgently impress upon every traveller the need tor the greatest care in this respect. Among the disagreeable reminiscences of mv African travels are the thunderstorms at night in the high mountain- regions. 'I hey are the carriers' worst toe. I he com- bination of furious gales, lloods, and cold, with the VOL. II. O(H) 2 to >rylc them tor their kindness to me. 675 With Flashlight and Rifle -* The distress then was something terrible. In Pangani alone a great many more than a thousand blacks had succumbed ; the feeding of the numbers who streamed there from all directions with rice (which had to be imported from India) was very costly. Nowhere were any means of nourishment to be bought, and rice formed, therefore, the staple food for my camp. Still, before starting on my great journey into the interior I wanted above all things to be thoroughly informed as to the condition of the buffaloes, which had been so glowingly described to me. On June 22nd I left Pangani, crossing the southern river-bank to Mbueni, with thirty loads of rice, two Muscat asses, a number of pack-asses, seventy-eight carriers, and several private soldiers, in all ninety-five men, and marched three and a half hours along the sea-shore. Xot far from the town, and near my camping-place for the night, Uschongo, some putrefied corpses betrayed the lamentable state of things. Even the cocoa-palms had been all stripped of their fans by locusts. I shall now transcribe almost literally the short notes from my diary, which are well calculated to give the reader an idea ot this march :— " [nne 24. — Early morning start; march of eight hours. Over Great — and Eittle — Kipumbui to Xgnaia. "June 25. — Along the sea-coast. Six-hour march. " [une 26. — March to Paramakara ; then to Java; way lost. Everywhere we met with dead Mouma palms, which had been tapped for palm-wine by the 674 -•> Hostile Forces natives. Some of these latter take to flight ; guide not available. "June 27.- — Start at 4 a.m. March to Ouabigo ; way lost. Camp, 4 p.m. Everything \vet through, road through uncleared forest and very tall sedge ; the whole day, a line mist-like rain ; some \Vasegna planta- tions in which Indian millet was ripening. Many huts deserted. Locusts have laid waste all the vegetation some time ago. " /////c 28-30. — March to a rocky hill through very tall sedge. \\ et through ; tine mist-like rain. I'racks ot buffalo and elephant about fourteen days old. (irass already far too high. The game has sought other quarters; till to-day seen only a guerexa and a reedbuck — nothing else. Almost incessant rain. 675 With Flashlight and Rifle * "July i. — March to Muega through \vet reed-grass. After eight and a half hours, camp in Ouoamadi. All the huts ruined — empty ; some survivors tell us that here alone seventv-ei^ht have died of hunger. Pouring rain. - o o o "fitly 2. — March to (iambo. Received by the village chief, Maka bin Ali. Camp in Simbieri. The inhabitants are very glad to trade for rice with different articles ; amongst others, beautiful dance-aprons (" kissambo) " made of reed-grass, hunting-nets, and such-like things. Here I o o o am at last able to buy a goat, after having lived almost entirely upon rice until now. "fitly 4. — From Simbirri to Mseko ; very cold, wet march. The guide escapes, in the course of it, into the high grass ; we lose our wav. In the forest-track o o * we find a lately murdered young Mseguha. March till 3 p.m. I reach Pangani with some of my people, but the carriers do not arrive till July 5th, in the evening." The undertaking thus resulted in nothing, in spite of great trouble, and my tents and utensils were ruined by mould on account of the wet weather. For hunting in grassy Useguha, quite special seasons must be chosen ; and one must have native guides, who are verv O *- difficult to procure. . . . Apart from all these inconveniences, the traveller is of course threatened by the always possible — though really quite unusual — sudden revolts of the natives, or else attacks by them. / beliei'e, after many years experience o/ leading the larger kind of private expeditious, that one can travel 676 -* I lostilc Forces <7.v a private individual in fcast . Ifrica ivit/i an armed force and yd get on excellently i^if/i the nalii'es. I have not had any kind of direct personal trouble \\ith them, and I always punished looting on the part of my men so severely that they soon ceased to have any desire to transgress in this way. Nevertheless 1 have been twice attacked at night by Masai, who were alter my cattle! Before I give a description of this incident, 1 should like to say that private tr,i\'ellei's and their caravans, are naturally, in view ot such events, place 1 in a tar more dangerous position than the commanders ol colonial police, tor these arc; ot course always equipped tor war- fare. Private travellers may easily find themselves in danger, since the attacks ot the natives always take 07; \Yith Flashlight and Rifle •* place very suddenly and at night, just at the moment when the caravan is least expecting anything of the sort. At one time it was not easy for a private traveller to procure, in Kast Africa, the grant of a sufficient number of armed followers. It was maintained that one could travel safelv through Kast Africa with a walking- ^ O O stick for weapon. To a gentleman who expressed him- self to me in that fashion, I answered that though 1 was firmly convinced that my death would be avenged, I should prefer to keep alive if I could. The latest incidents in SouthAYest Africa make one feel still more strongly on this point. The Government must of course have the right to refuse access to the interior to armed forces of dubious character, or at any rate to deprive them of their arms ; it should even be empowered to turn them out of the country. But tor experienced travellers, who are able to give personal guarantees, to be refused the proper armed escort, I considered, and consider still, to be a most grave error of judgment. K vents in South-West Africa have shown how cunningly the natives contrive to hide their plans from the officials, and I found it just the same, in the year 1896, in Kast Africa. My thoughts often go back to the warlike events in which I participated there. In the summer of that year the natives near Kili- manjaro seemed quiet and peaceable ; the idea of a sudden revolt or an attack on the station at Moshi was scouted by the Europeans. In September the large and well-armed expedition which I had been able to join 678 -* Hostile Forces was encamped at the MLTU Hills, some clays' journey from Kilimanjaro, in the midst of banana-groves— an un- questionably poor strategic position, but chosen for want of a better. I cannot say that the natives had shown a particu- larly friendly disposition. The men especially, when they came, armed with spears, into camp during the daytime, showed themselves shy and hostile; when I spoke to them, they turned away and disappeared among the bananas, while the women bartered their field-produce, as the custom is, among the carriers. In the absence ot the leader of the expedition, I found myself alone in the camp with my dear friend .Alfred Kaiser a man who has spent many years ot his life amongst the Bedouin Arabs, and at Sinai 679 With Flashlight and Rifle * when towards evening a deputation of old men, led by the then chief (?) at Moshi (a negro named Schundi) came into camp and begged for an interview. This " schauri " was of course; granted them, and in picturesque groups the people; squatted down in Kaiser's tent, he conducting the conversation in Arabic (for we were not then masters of the: Swahili language) through an interpreter. Kaiser and I remember every little incident of that evening. When the; natives proposed to send into our camp a great number of their young " spear-warriors," so as to defend this, in conjunction with our own armed men, against an eventual attack of the Loita-Masai, we most decisively refused to consider the idea at all. The real intention, that it was these Masai themselves who pro- posed to attack us, seemed to us toe) transparent. \Ve both saw in it a ruse of the chief, who for some time had not been very friendly to us, and of whose double-dealing that night we, later on, had lull proof, Kaiser was strengthened in his instant decision by his varied knowledge and experience of native races ; and for my part, my suspicions were immediately awakened by a number of little things I had noticed. The night went by uneventfully, no dembt principally because Kaiser and 1 hael orele-reel the- sentries to lire instantly at any native they saw, and because, on their •departure, we had taken care; to inform the- old me;n ot this command. Many months later, it was evident to us both that our lives hael hung by a thread that night. 680 -* Hostile Forces A short time after these; occurrences, the Commandant of Fort Moshi arrived at the Meru Mountain, accom- panied by several regiments of Askaris, to select a settlement for two missionaries oi the Feipsic Mission, Messrs. Ovis and Seeyebrock. Towards evening, a chief and an old woman warned the Europeans that there was danger in delay. Their warning" was scouted — but not by the Sudanese Askans. who, without having been ordered to do so, spent the ni^ht without sleep, their loaded we.ipons under iheir hands. In the early-morning hours these warlike men hear a rustling in the surrounding banana-grove. It is clear to them that something is going on there. \\ ithout hesitation they open lire. I hen there is a clashing ol weapons, and a rush ol warriors in the darkness. I he 6Si \Yith Flashlight and Rifle ^ toes had already got close to the camp in such numbers that, next morning, over thirty dead warriors were seen in its immediate vicinity. One or two shots were heard simultaneously in the camp of the missionaries, only a few minutes' distance from us. A courageous black volunteered, when the attack had been repulsed, to creep into the mission-camp over the stream which divided it from us, so as to see what had happened there. Presently he came back, with the news that every one in the other camp had been killed ; both missionaries pierced by numerous spear- wounds, and their possessions demolished, down to the tiniest article. Then there was a great punitive expedition ; and for •a long time after that peace seemed to prevail. About three years later I went again to Kilimanjaro, and found everything there in a state of apparently pro- found tranquillity. The missionaries knew nothing ot any new designs on the part of the hill-folk. I may as well take this opportunity ot mentioning that the Kilimanjaro district has been endowed with a some- what regrettable medley of missionaries. Catholics and Evangelicals dividing the sparsely populated hillsides in alternate streaks. This cannot have a beneficial influence upon the natives. In Kurope very optimistic views ot the economical future of this district are beginning to prevail, based on most doubtful authority. The well-founded though pessimistic verdict given by Professor Yolkens. in his 682 -»! Hostile Forces work Ih'r Kilimandjai'O, seems not to be- taken at its proper value, although confirmed by so great an expert as Professor I lans Meyer. A short time alter my departure from Moshi I experienced a night-alarm. I had spent the evening as the guest ot the Catholic Mission, and had been, as always, most cordially and hospitably entertained. Returned to camp, I had scarcely fallen asleep when 1 was roughly awakened. ... It appeared that a great number ot natives had suddenly and stealthily penetrated into my camp, but had instantly, on the alarm-signal being given, vanished into the darkness. Months went by without incident, except that some side-arms were stolen trom my servants, whom 1 had stationed at some days' distance trom myselt for the purpose of buying vegetable food — and these weapons were never recovered. But when, at the end ot my expedition in the year iScjq, I came again to Fort Moshi from the Xjiri Marshes, I never dreamed that 1 was to pass suddenly from the protoundest tranquillity to a state ot something like war. The very night before my arrival the natives had actually attempted an attack upon the tort. 1 he garrison had tired about five hundred shots. \\ e now spent, rifles in hand, some anxious days and still more anxious nights, during which my entire company ot armed men was consigned to the yard ot the Port and placed at the disposition ot Captain Merker. who was then Deputy-Commandant. He hail, in the absence ot his chief, provided with the utmost forethought tor all VOL. II. oS^ 21 With Flashlight and Rifle -* emergencies, and was in a position to repulse any further night-attacks. Well, on Christmas night, about nine o'clock, there tied to the protecting- walls of the so-called "Fort" the whole population of the settlement, with the women and children. The fort, in my opinion, is neither advan- tageously situated, nor particularly adapted for defence against a well-directed attack ; and, above all, in case of serious need, is almost waterless. But this time it did not get so far as an attack by night ; for the natives had not, on this occasion, been able to keep their plans secret. The subsequent punitive expedition ; the carrying of war into the camp of the besiegers ; the execution of nineteen chiefs on one day as a warning example, will sufficiently prove the gravity of the situation. . . . To my great regret I was not permitted to take part in the campaign, although I had offered my services in any capacity, even that of nurse ! Never will that Christmas night fade from my memory. Now I perceived what the nocturnal scene had meant which I had gone through in Kibosho on my march out. Evidently the natives had even then had treacherous intentions, which had been frustrated by the watchfulness of my people. Certainly at that time, as I have already shown, the authorities did not anticipate any attacks of that kind. It seems to me typical of the esprit de corps of the natives and their reserve towards Europeans, that none ot the missionaries at the mountain had been warned by their pupils. A Catholic missionary, who had a close 686 -•> Hostile Forces knowledge of the surrounding' inhabitants, told me that, on the contrary, it was actually to the Christian natives that had been assigned the most prominent roles in the assassination of the missionaries, which was to be under- taken as soon as the fort was conquered. And later it was made plain that all the Europeans were to have been assassinated, provided the surprise of the tort turned out completely successful. He that as it may, in my opinion an execution of native; princes, especially to such a number as nineteen, is a serious mistake, which unquestionably will one day bring its own punishment. 1 consider the policy ot intimidation by means of the execution ot native princes to be thoroughly false in principle. It is much more likely to sow the seeds of a terrible: hatred. 689 \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* In the punitive expedition undertaken by the colonial police, who had been strongly reinforced from the coast, some most remarkable individual cases of heroism were shown by the rebels. A warrior of the Meru Hills, when asked : " Did he not fear to struggle in vain against the all - powerful European arms ? " answered laconically, " I know no Europeans ; I know only myself, my spears, my wives, and my cattle." And one of the chiefs who were executed, named Meli, would not allow himself to be pushed down by the Askari from the plank to the gallows, but sprang, with the rope round his neck, to his death, calling out w-ith his last breath to the Commandant, " Kwaheri Bwana ! " . . . Four years later, in the autumn of 1903, I once more found myself on the other side of Kilimanjaro, far out in the desert, with my caravan of about one hundred and twenty men, with perhaps thirty armed. It was not unknown to me that Masai Ol Morani about a year before then had massacred at night, not far from my camping-place, a caravan consisting of three Greek traders and a number of blacks, and had stolen all the cattle belonging to it. Only one of these Greeks, an old man, who had had the presence of mind to teign death on getting a spear-wound in the thigh, escaped. In a trice the Masai had driven off the cattle into the dark night. After some time the wounded man, hearing nothing more, crept up to one ol the camp-fires, warmed himself as well as he could in the cold ni^ht, and next O morning was carried to the fort at Meru Hill by some 6c.o -* Hostile Forces of the blacks who had also managed to escape the: slaughter. In any case; \ve needed to be very careful, as \ve were close: to the English border, and this gave the hostile Masai an opportunity of getting off scot-free. It was perhaps too confiding in me to atlord shelter in my camp tor weeks to an increasing number of Masai warriors. I had very much desired the presence ot some ot these strange people, tor purposes of study. P> ut when their numbers swelled beyond all reason. I intimated to them that I would not allow more than ten men, in addition to those already there, to remain in my proximity. On this they suddenly dispersed in every direction, and only two of the old tolk came to me afterwards. 601 With Flashlight and Rifle -* Some most difficult and lengthy marches now awaited me. We had to make forced marches, so as to get past the waterless parts. On August 2Oth I had started at i p.m., and after a forced march had, towards evening, pitched camp in a hilly part ot the velt, sparsely grown with terminalias and acacias. The loads were laid down, and my cattle— about ninety head — were shut into a hastily contrived thorn -barricade, called a " boma." All around lay the wearied carriers, who soon, despite their thirst, fell into a deep slumber. My taxidermist's and my own tent had been hastily put up, and had no sun-blinds. As usual, my armed men slept together by one of the camp fires, and a sentry was patrolling the camp. Even we Europeans were fast asleep, when in the middle of the ni^ht the Masai, who had followed us into the desert, C3 suddenly attacked us. The aggressors, some ot whom had already got into the camp, were, however, repulsed, and quick as lightning volley followed volley into the darkness. Then, with a clashing of arms, the toe took to Might. All my unarmed people had thrown themselves upon the ground, as they were taught by me to do, while we Europeans formed a square with the armed men. Xow followed some hours of suspense in total darkness, only interrupted by shots here and there, wherever a rustling noise might be supposed to betray the presence of the enemy. We strained all our senses to the uttermost, and strangely did the utter stillness of the men crouching 692 -* Hostile Forces on the ground contrast with the lowing ot the frightened cattle and the crackling of the volleys. The camp-fires, which even at the beginning of the attack were burning very low (we were short of fuel), had now completely gone out. Then we all heard again plainly, not far from the camp, a clatter like the knocking of spears against stones. Instantly some shots were fired in that direction. And so the night went by. This much is certain : it was entirely to the very quick and successful alarm that we owed our safety. During die writing of these, lines, almost exactly a year alter that incident, there comes grave news from the Masai countries ; much trouble is brewing in the different regions under the Ol Morani, and even in British F.ast Africa several additional Indian regiments have been oo ; With Flashlight and Rifle -* stationed. So it does not seem at all unlikely that my little incident was the beginning of this hostile move- ment— a movement as to which nobody can tell what clay it may break out, or to what extent it may spread ! On the next day several Masai were perceived at a good distance from the marching caravan ; they were watching us, but after some shots from us they took to flight. It is a proof of the cunning of the Masai Ol Morani that precisely that night was chosen for the attack when neither I nor my people could have expected any such thing, since that part of the velt, being waterless, could not be supposed to contain human beings. At any rate we had the most narrow escape from suffering the same fate that the massacred caravan had suffered the year before. And our luck in escaping was the more extraordinary in that it was a pitch-dark night, which gave the spear-armed Ol Morani a great advantage at close quarters with our scanty firearms. In some cases known to me the Masai had always tried to drive off the cattle quite noiselessly, and in this they showed astonishing cleverness. It was on the first hint of resistance that they had made use of their spears, and had struck down all living creatures instantly. Only my quite extraordinarily quick and successful alarm could have saved us ; and so I stick to my system of always sleeping surrounded by repeating rifles and Mauser pistols, ready for use at a moment's notice. From that time forward I was, of course, even more cautious than before, and a greater number of Mauser rifles — begged for from 694 Hostile Forces the fort, and delivered with the: necessary ammunition — ensured greater safety to my caravan tor the future. I must confess that such attacks, in blackest darkness. 607 With Flashlight and Rifle -+> arc not among the choicest delights of African travelling, especially as in the use of firearms under these conditions it is scarcely possible to avoid wounding, or even killing some of one's own people. Most of the attacks from the Masai went off in the same way, and almost without exception in the night time. But I have never witnessed the. si^ht of a Masai warrior o with his spear and shield boldly defying European firearms in open warfare. Earlier travellers had this experience before the time of the cattle-plague. Shortly before the night-attack I had an unpleasant encounter in rather odd circumstances with a large number of armed Masai warriors in full war-kit. At some little distance from my camp I had dug a pit, which I had covered with a roof, earth-coloured, and something like a tent in shape ; I had laid a carcase near it, and then, completely alone, I had taken my place in this contrivance so as to get some photographs of vultures in their attack on the carcase. For some hours I had been waiting in my sun-baked, narrow, uncomfortable habitation, when suddenly I had a strange experience. To my utter amazement I suddenly saw quite close to me a great number of Masai warriors in full war-paint, therefore on the war-path ; and, drawn by curiosity, approaching my lair, which they had espied with their sharp eyes. So as not to expose myself to the danger of having my hiding-place pierced with a spear, I had intended to appear suddenly trom the depths and go to meet the warriors, knowing that they would instantly take flight. But on looking back through an opening which had been made in my lair, I saw a lot of my soldiers 698 -»i Hostile Forces hurrying towards me as fast as possible. Kvidently one of my men, growing uneasy at my long absence;, had wished to inform himself of my safety from a distance. Thus he had seen the warriors, and had instantly alarmed the camp. Unfortunately it was not possible-, though we searched lor hours, to find the (31 Morani, and enter into relations with them. It is difficult for a civilised man to form any idea of the highly developed capability acquired by his desert-ranging brother of victoriously encountering all the obstacles of his inhospitable abiding-place, and of mastering and setting at naught all its terrors. The cleverness with which the Masai folk manage even the biggest droves of cattle, the skill and rapidity with which they drive them, were brought home to me by the following incident. 600 With Flashlight and Rifle -* I was once, about midday, coming back into camp with quite a lot of my servants when suddenly — it was on the right bank of the Pangani River — we perceived a large herd of cattle and a number of Masai. We thought they were most likely some Masai warriors who had made a successful cattle- raid in Useguha, which was quite near, and were now going home to the Sogonoi Hills. The distance between us and them was little less than a mile. I at once went off with my servants as quickly as possible in the opposite direction. We had to go through a hollow of the valley, which obstructed our view for some minutes. When we had got back again to a place whence we could see, the Masai and the cattle had totally disappeared, as if they had been swallowed by the earth ; and although we at once spread out in all directions along the river-bank— the bush, however, was tolerably thick there — we did not succeed in catching sight of them again. It was not until late in the afternoon that we discovered how the fugitives had driven off all our own cattle — one by one — in a direction that we had never thought of! Pursuit was then useless, for the stony ground which they had taken would betray no trace of their footsteps. In view of so many regrettable quarrels and conflicts between travellers and the native tribes, I cannot help expressing the opinion that many of these complications might have been avoided if the Europeans had so chosen. In the " good old times" it was undoubtedly easy to travel " on the cheap," equipped with lots of cartridges, and nothing else ! Curiously enough, it was always the natives who, in those clays, began hostilities : a treacherous arrow 700 VOL. II -* I lostilc Forces was shot ;it the: approaching traveller, volleys were fired, the inhabitants of the localities took to flight, and all their provisions were instantly looted by the "conquerors!" But if the traveller is inclined for peaceable barter- traffic, he must of course have with him a great quantity of wares useful for that purpose, so as to keep up the food- supply of his men ; and in times of drought and high prices the natives naturally demand more for their field-produce than in normal seasons, for they themselves are wholly dependent on their gains from the fruits of the soil until the next harvest. To travel with Kast African carriers and keep on friendly terms with the natives is, for a time, at any rate, no very difficult achievement ; and if" 1 look back upon anything with satisfaction it is upon the fact that I, at any rate, have never knowingly been obliged to shed the o * o blood of a black man. A ,-CI-:NE ox TIM-: XXXI The Preservation of African Game THE International Conference to which representatives of all the Great Powers with interests in Africa were invited for the discussion of the methods to be adopted for preserving African game, resulted in a number of regulations which are now being carried out in modified and amended forms and according to local conditions, in different parts of the continent. I must frankly state that personally I do not hold altogether with the prevailing views as to " useful " and '• harmful " animals. It seems to me that we are far too arbitrary in the way we deal with living creatures, disturbing modes and methods of existence which are the harmonious outcome of ages of evolution. \Ye consider ourselves entitled to proscribe all kinds of animals as " harmful," thus annihilating whole sections of wild life in a way which has aroused the strong opposition of students and lovers of nature. 704 -* The Preservation of African (iame Already there is in existence in Germany a society for the preservation ot the beauties ot nature;. The term should he held to include not merely scenery, hut also the animal lite and plant lite thereto belonging. The sportsman sits as ruler over the entire animal kingdom ; he gives out its laws, and has powers ot lite and death. Whatever he may decide is accepted without question. It (iermany can boast ot an old and honoured institution, in its confraternity ot German sportsmen, such as you will hardly find in any other country, many Germans — I say it clearly and frankly- -are a great deal too prone to destroy a number of beautiful species ot the animal fauna, considering themselves warranted IP exterminating, by means ot traps and even <>t poison, ris well as by powder and shot, all those vermin, as they are designated, which prey upon our tavounte forms ot game. 1 his interferes with the natural order ot things, and degeneration ot the species results inevitably. It is not on y the man with the gun who arrogates to himself this right: the angler is ot" the same wax ot thinking, and to be logical we should sutler bee-keepers to kill oft all our swallows and stand by xx'hile the \ me- groxver spreads destruction among thrushes and other singing-birds. There is scarcely any hx'ing creature against xvhich some case might not be made out tor damage clone to some human industry. In the days xxhen otters and herons and kingfishers and any number of other animals and birds xvere left tree to prey upon the lish in German seas and lakes and With Flashlight and Rifle -* ponds and rivers, the supply of fish was always infinitely greater than it is now. The anglers' societies persist, however, in declaring war against all these enemies of fish — otters and herons and kingfishers, sea-gulls, cormor- ants, diving-birds and water-ousels, and all the rest. They imagine that with their special schemes they will succeed in refilling with fish the rivers they have allowed to become poisoned with chemical drains. The sportsman kills off foxes, martens, polecats, weasels, wild cats, badgers, otters, and " all birds of prey with talons and arched wings," as an old forester once expressed it to me. Hand-in-hand with the fisherman, he wages war against the cormorant, the fishing-eagle, and any number of other birds and beasts. They both forget that the farmer might very well cherish similar feelings and wage war against other creatures in the same way. Fortunately there are exceptions to this rule, such as we find among the Mecklenburg sportsmen, who are satisfied to kill but few foxes rather than threat numbers of o hares, and among those English landed proprietors who leave its freedom even to the peregrine falcon, though fully conscious that, together with its mate, it levies its tribute daily upon the grouse. We feel strongly about the ruthless methods ot the south of Europe. Hut can we afford to throw stones ? The singing-birds that nest in the north of Europe wing their way twice every year over the; length of Italy, and their numbers are thinned always as they 706 The Preservation of African pass over the densely populated districts, the forc(:s of electricity and other modern inventions being directed against them. This state of things is merely a survival from the days when mankind looked no further than the morrow, as is still the case with the; negroes. \Ye in Germany have learned at least to spare the singing-birds, (ierman sentiment could not bear to see them injured. Hut, before we can venture to appeal to our southern neighbours to give, them a free passage on their way to us, we must learn to be more merciful ourselves to the gradually diminishing ranks of our own wild birds and beasts. \Ve destroy our woodcock now, both before: and after their spring migration ; while the thrush, which in the autumn suddenly becomes transformed into the fieldfare. falls a victim at all times to those snares which are justly proscribed by sporting rules on German territory. In all cases in which we imagine that certain interests are being injured, we proceed, in entire disregard of the overwhelming world of non-sportsmen and in opposition to all lovers and students of nature, to rob our fauna of their greatest treasures. A pair of storks afford pleasure and interest to thousands; yet, if a stork kills a tew leverets, the sports- man punishes it with death, in entire disregard of the feelings of other people. So it is with sea-eagles, buzzards, kites, the beautiful kestrel, our fine owls, the splendid crested grebes (which allow you to come within a le.w yards of them in \our boat), the herons, which thrive better on our lakes than 707 With Flashlight and Rifle -* anywhere else— they all fall victims to the death-dealing bullet. So long as home-dwelling Germans (and other Europeans) allow themselves to be swayed by such short- sighted ideas, how can they expect better things from regions like East Africa, where Europeans have a hard struggle for existence. Our game-laws are not enough in themselves even o o at home to keep our preserves free from poachers. We must always have keepers on the alert, day and night. How, then, can we hope to control reckless European adventurers in the heart of the African wilder- ness— men who know nothing either of sporting etiquette and traditions or of animal life, and who have no local responsibilities of any kind — -especially in view of the immense commercial value of the animals out there ? If I seem to be drawing a somewhat pessimistic picture of what is in store for that fauna whose interests lie so near my heart, I must add that I welcome cor- dially the steps that have been taken of late, by both the British and German Governments, for staving off as long as possible the impending doom. It is being gradually realised that rules and regulations are of no avail. The English have given a useful object-lesson in the preserve which they have instituted all along their railway and in the neighbourhood of the railway stations, under the watch of the railway officials. This plan has had the best results tor some years past. The wicked sportsman, of whom you read so much in books and newspapers, and who is really a good deal 708 --* The Preservation of African (ianie of a myth, is now at least regarded no longer as the sole cause of the disappearance of the African fauna, the "Tiilt having been brought home at last to the O «"* t^ chief — culprits the traders, pseudo-colonists, Boers, Askaris, armed natives, and all the other pioneers of civilisation. For many years a collector of natural-history speci- mens, who went out quite unselfishly on behalf of German museums and who spent ,{,5,000 in the colony, was regarded as a very undesirable and unwelcome visitor. Both in German and British Kast Africa the game was reserved for other kinds of sportsmen. When caravans reached the coast with a load of five hundred elephant- tusks, these were; " merchandise "; but if a private traveller killed a Jew elephants he was a slaughterer of wild animals ! I'rom the very nature of the case it is impossible; to establish anything like: complete control over the hunting of big game, but it is a matter tor much satisfaction that the Governments have now taken the matter strenuously in hand. 1 low difficult it is always to settle the question as to what constitutes " harmfulness " is shown in Ger- many by the great dispute carried on in regard to the utility of crows, in which the judgments <>t recognised authorities are so absolutely at variance, while the matter in dispute is probably one tor the use of common sense. One ot the most notable provisions enacted by the International Conference was that which lorbade the 71 i \Yith Flashlight and Rifle * exportation of elephant-tusks weighing less than ten pounds apiece. 1 was discussing this one day in Africa with a resident in the Congo State. " C^// y Dicttra dn plowbr he remarked! The insertion of "a little lead" into the ivory would bring it up to the specified weight ! If the exportation of the tusks of female elephants could be prevented — they are easily recognised by the small cavities — there would be some hope of preserving the species effectively. It is not possible, however, for the hunter to judge the weight of the tusks of the elephants he comes across in the thickets. It he really wishes to spare rill that have not marketable tusks, he must select only the very largest individuals. This is too much to demand of those who make their living out of it under very trying conditions, when they know that wily Greek and Indian merchants will find a way of disposing of their illicit wares satisfactorily.1 With the spread of colonisation, and the setting apart of districts within which there should either be no shooting of wild animals or only ot certain specified types, the question as to what animals are to be regarded as harmful has come more and more to the front. Elephants and hippopotamuses must be acknowledged to come under the categorv of harmful animals. \ et the 1 There is no export duty, unfortunately, in the German Cameroon*, whence 452, i co kilos of tusks, chiefly from young elephants, have been exported (luring the past ten years. There are 10 to 15 percent, duties in other African colonies. There is no import duty on ivory in (ire.it Britain or in (iermany. 712 -•> The Preservation of African (iainc natives of India have contrived to live comfortably side by side with herds of elephants. Hippopotamuses are so apt to destroy plantations that they certainly have- to be got rid of in all neighbourhoods in which Europeans settle down. Elephants also are often very destructive in the same way. The preservation of elephants is undoubtedly against the interests of European colonists ; and indeed the; preservation of any species of wild animal would seem to be against the interests of colonists. Baboons, which any one; is free to kill, are also very harmful to plantations. Cultivators of millet and other grains have to employ watchmen to keep oft both the apes and small birds from the crops during the very brief" period when these: are ripening. The natives erect sheds, raised up on four poles, and from these-, with the help of ropes, which they fasten across their fielels, and to which they attach feathers and other scares, they frighten away wilel boars, which elo a lot of damage to crops, and which are difficult to get rid of. Besides these,- animals and many roelents and meerkats, certain of the smaller ante-lopes occasionally are- a nuisance: to settlers. All othe-r kinds of animals avoid the neighbourhood of man, and ke-<-p away on the velt, where the-y can do ne> injury. Rhinoceroses especially are very seldom known to come near inhabited districts, anel the; same may be said of giraffes and the larger antelopes. I am anxious to insist upon this point. because both Prince- Lo\ve:nste-in and myself were assured, greatly to our surprise, that the: giraffe exce-eds all other animals in the: wav it elcstrovs the: East African forests. With Flashlight and Rifle -+ Statements of this kind, made quite without knowledge, get too much credence at home. With certain exceptions, therefore, there is no pretext for the killing of African big game on the ground of their harmfulness. On the other hand, there is urgent need for the putting out of every effort to prevent the ravages of insects and reptiles, which play havoc with many forms of colonial enterprise. Coffee-plantations suffer, for instance, in an extreme degree. But it would be a great mistake if the fauna of the country were to be generally wiped out, as sometimes it has been locally, in the hope of thereby getting rid of ticks, which are known to communicate disease. Accord- ing to my information, the infectious diseases in question are to be met with in districts where wild animals have long been absolutely exterminated. For a long time past rewards have been given for the killing of lions and leopards, though it may be questioned whether this practice can justified by results. Assuredly, without rewards, no one would lose a chance of killing' either lions or leopards whenever this might be practic- able ; while the rewards are not large enough in themselves to tempt any one to go in for this kind of shooting. Of late years the rewards have been lowered in value. Nor would they induce any one -to set about the killing of crocodiles or poisonous snakes. Personally, I doubt very much whether the destruction of the crocodiles would have the result of increasing the supply of fish in African lakes and rivers. I cannot imagine a greater wealth of fish than I have seen out there. I remember 7'4 -* The Preservation of African (ianie being impressed by this when looking on at Kuropeans securing catches ot fish by the: use of dynamite cartridges— an operation that was prohibited, but that it was not pos- sible to prevent. It is interesting and instructive to note that the swamps, lakes, and rivers most frequented by crocodiles, turtles, otters, and fish-eating birds of all kinds, are always alive with fish. It is often impossible to get water for one's bath that is free: from fish. I used to find it difficult even to keep them out of the dishes in which I washed my negatives. To sum up, only those animals should be exterminated which are indisputably injurious to man. For the most part, the beautiful wild animals of Kast Africa find ample nourishment on the wide velt, and do no harm to us whatever. THE MASAIS WERE AMUSED AT THE \VAV I HELD ONE OF THEIR DANGEROUS SPEARS XXXII A Race of Warlike Shepherds : the Masai SO long ago as 1896 I found in conversation with my friend Merker, now captain in the imperial colonial police, that he and I were agreed in holding that the Masai, generally regarded until then as belonging to the race of Ham, were quite curiously and unmistakably Semitic in their physiognomy. Since then my friend has published an imposing work,1 the outcome of many years of study, in which he has expounded his view that the Masai, long before the period of the oldest records we have of Egypt, had come from Arabia to Africa, there eventually to settle down upon the eastern velt. He has sought to demonstrate, moreover, that the Masai — adherents to a strictly monotheistical religion — were the descendants ot that oldest branch of O the Semitic family which was in possession of the Biblical 1 '/'//(' .]/(/*(!/' : an Ethnographical Sliuiy <>/ an East African Semitic Race. Merlin 11)04. 1 'ictrich Ricnicr. 716 A Race of Warlike Shepherds: the Masai myths, before these myths louiul their way to Babylon. 'I he Masai have finely cut features, tall, slim figures, and very often beautifully shaped feet and hands. VOL. II. 717 \Yith Flashliht ;md Rifle Merker deals also in his work with the common error which assumes the Semites of old to have been identical with the jews of to-day. As a matter of fact, the special characteristics of our modern Jews did not come into existence until after the Semites began to mix with the O race of Heth. The Bible touches repeatedly upon the mingling of the two races, which began long before the Hebrews settled down. I cannot enter further into these mutters here. I shall only say that, in Merker's book, we have before us the work of a man who has been able to enter into the soul of a people in a quite unique manner, and who has consecrated many years to his task. He has amassed an amount of material which cannot but arouse the admiration even of those students of the subject who may not be able always to subscribe to his conclusions. Before he entered upon his study, for which he was well qualified by his scientiiic training and his familiarity with this kind of work, our knowledge of the Masai was very scanty. No one else has ever undertaken so thorough an investigation into their language and habits and modes of thought. I think I am in a position to estimate the immense difficulties he had to cope with. This is not the place to discuss Merker's theories in detail. I must leave that to the experts. This much is certain, that the "' ol Morani," the spear-wielding warriors of the race-, have dominated the velt-land for thousands of years, roaming far and wide, and increasing their herds always by pillage and plunder among the other races settled in the country. Like the Indians of North 7,8 -* A Race of \Yarlike Shepherds : the Masai America, they found their greatest happiness in untram- melled freedom. A \varlike people, they scorned mere settlers and men of peace. Thus they lived their life until the coming of the white man. Now their days of predominance are over. Soon, probably, they will have reached their downfall. It will be with 'hem as it has been with the red man. In truth, their ways do not tit in with the spread ot civilisation over the veil. I) ut just as we all delighted as boys in the blood- curdling talcs ot the Red Man— there are many of us. indeed, well on in years, who still so delight we cannot but teel a certain amount o! sympathy \\iih this picturesque and impressive people, who tor so main thousands ot years have lived their unchan^in^ existence in the trecdom ot the veil, practising consistently the virile virtues ot 7'9 \Yith Flashlight and Rifle the fighting man and holding their peace-loving neighbours in disdain. And how closely in touch they are with the mother- earth of their Nyika! I remember once how a Masai child, barely six years old, having got lost somehow in my camp, made his way home to his parents' kraal two long days' journey away through a pathless jungle, in which he slept the night, and arrived there safely. I could not have believed it had I not verified the fact for myself. And now this race, together with their wild companions of the velt, must make way for a new and alien civilisation. Their swords and spears are of no avail against the deadly lire-arms of the invader. They owe their downfall, however, primarily to pestilence. The 720 -* A Race of Warlike Shepherds : the Masai rinderpest which swept over Kast Africa two decades a^o exterminated their cattle, and in a tew days man and woman and child died of famine. The survivors— some hundreds of thousands — must soon die otl, unable to adapt themselves to any other modi; ot lite than that to which they were born and bred. \\ e have here a striking illustration ot the wav in which an entire; race can disappear from the face ot tin- earth. Barely a century a^'o the Masai enjoyed a period ot Ljreat prosperity under their mighty chief Mbatyan, the hero ot many legends. There is something inex- pressibly melancholy in the sij_du ot the remnant of this heroic1 people ti^'htm^" desperately tor their life. 'I here is a world ot difference between them and so main of the unsympathetic mongrel races to be met \\ith in the With Flashlight and Rifle -* west and south-west of Africa, who have abandoned their ancient customs through the influence of civilisation. For days and weeks together I have lingered among the Masai, encamped in the vicinity of their kraals, and I have learnt to understand and appreciate them. Their habits and customs, their songs and dances, were to me an unfailing source of interest and enjoyment. Often, I remember, a feeling ot melancholy would steal over me as I sat by the camp-fire gazing at these splendid fighting men, with their fine stature and noble bearing, as they sang their time-hallowed melodies or war-songs, shield and spear always in their hands. They lay or crouched all round me, their faces illumined by the flames. I often asked myself how I should fare, if I had to meet them in combat, supported by my followers ! Even when, as happened more than once, I found my caravan threatened by these Masai, I could feel no ill-will against them. They were but fighting for their ideals, as we Europeans have daily to do for ours. And they await with ardour the day (so Marker tells us), when their great chief Mbatyan shall come back to them and stand once again in their midst, to free them from the yoke of the stranger. The following incident illustrates the way in which the Masai cling to their traditional habits. A Masai boy had been several times to Germany with his master, a Government official, and had mastered our language, Berlin jargon and all, in an astonishing fashion. \\ hen he had grown to man's estate, and had quitted the service of this official, he was found one day by a European 724 "*> A Race of Warlike Shepherds : the Masai \vho knew him, no longer in civilised garb, but smeared all over with red ochre, his hair grown long and worn in plaits with a sort of pigtail — " ol daiga," as they call it — dripping with grease;, in company with another Masai in'full war-paint. When the astonished spectator inquired what all this meant, he replied in the best lierlin (ierman : " 1 have decided to go back and live among my own people." I shall never forget the answer one ol my Masai Jriends vouchsafed to one ol mv carriers, who was struck With Flashlight and Rifle ^ by the deft and tearless way he inserted his naked arm into an ant-hill, in which bees had hived, and drew out the honeycomb. While he: was dividing this golden treasure among my men one of them asked him : " How is that the bees don't sting you ? " "It is your business to carry burdens," replied the Ol Morani ; "it is mine to roam over the velt. The bees sting you ; me they love ! " And he gave the carrier a glance of immeasurable scorn. The Masai have never had anything to do with the institution of slavery. Some two years ago two Masai men served under me for a twelvemonth, as guides. I paid them when we got back to the coast. They expended the entire sum on the release of an elderly Masai woman, who at that time was the slave ot a negro at Pangani. She belonged to the tribe of my guides, and this sufficed to impel them to an action which was remarkable for its unselfishness and humanity. I need hardly add that I not only saw to it that they secured the freedom ot their countrywoman at a very low figure, but I rewarded them also for their praiseworthy conduct. A very curious contrast to this incident comes to my mind. My old caravan-leader, " Maftar," a Swahili, refused the offer I made him, in recognition of his trustworthy service during four years, to buy him his freedom. He would not put his old Arab master to the grief of losing him! Different races, different ideas! I have heard many other instances of the fine feeling 726 -* A Race of Warlike Shepherds: the Masai which characterises the Masai, from missionaries whose hospitality I have enjoyed, and from others. An intimate friend of mine once declared to me with feeling that, if not himself, he would choose to he a Masai ( )1 Morani of the old stamp. Merker's hook on the Masai must constitute one of the most thorough and complete studies of an Kast African race yet published. I>\ then' conscientious and able investigations into our colonial affairs, men like ( mint dot/en, lluhlmann, Merker. Richard kandt, 1'tillehorn, Paul Reichard, (iassarge, and Kr.rmer will be found probably to have been of infinitely jjreater service than many of" those who have striven after perfection through the medium of complex and often impracticable by-laws and regulations. AYith Flashlight and Rifle -* The first thing to be done is to learn something of the races we have to govern. In this way alone can we avoid terrible mistakes, involving us 211 desperate struggles, in which the lives of thousands of Europeans and of natives would be lost. But the system of changing about our officials from post to post militates, and must always militate, against this. Men should be left as long as possible in localities to wliich t/iey have become accustomed, and 211 which they have made their mark, quite irrespective of t/ie rank they may hold. It is impossible to introduce our own habits and customs unchanged into foreign lands, and force them upon the natives. ll'e must take account of their own habits and customs before we attempt to mile them. Only in this way shall we learn Jww to deal wisely with the natives of our African colonies and to turn them to good account. These regions for the most part must always remain closed to European immigration. Gradually to mould the inhabitants and to develop their capacities to the utmost — that is at once our only practicable policy and a higJi and noble ideal. 728 THOMSON'S r,.\/KI.LKS S Envoi L( )\\ LY, but surely, the explorer makes his way to ^^ the uttermost ends ot the earth. It is but a tew months since Tibet, that land of legends, hitherto un- known and impenetrable, had at last to open its gates to the invader. Asia, traversed lor long ages past by the forces ot civilisation, had been able to keep this one stronghold inviolate, though Africa, until recently the " I )ark I ontment, no longer maintained any such refuge. l>oth continents surprised the world ot zoological science by the disclosure ot tw<> large mammals, the very existence1 ot which had been unsuspected : Asia with the singular takm [Hudot'cas /(i.\'i('o/or) ; Africa with the okapi. It there be no longer any great riddles to solve in the 1 )ark Continent, there still await investigation any number ot very difficult ijuestions in every field ot knowledge. To give an illustration : then' are over two hundred kinds ot birds still to be discovered there. With Flashlight and Rifle -* according to the surmise of Professor Reichenow. And to give another, I may point out that as yet no success has been met with in the efforts to cope with the rinder- pest. For Germans there is a wide field for labour in Africa — a field which, with more experience, we shall learn to cultivate better. No one is in a better position to realise this than the wanderer who has spent years in the wilderness, striving strenuously to wring from velt and marsh and forest the secrets they have withheld from mortal eyes. If we are to explore these regions and save their treasures for posterity, we must make haste ; for many races of natives with their ancient habits and customs, and with them the animal life, are dying away under the breath of civilisation all too speedily. Here I am moved to speak again of my trusty followers, who shared my sufferings and my delights so many thousands of times. Hardly a single one of them did I ever find not eager at any time to set out with me on a new expedition into the interior, and in most of them j had devoted and grateful servants. I must give a thought to those also who lost their life in my service, and whose bones now lie bleaching beneath the equatorial sun. The years I spent out there come back to my memory as years of interest, happiness, and enjoyment, drawing out all my powers to the utmost. The velt lies out- stretched before me — now flooded with sunlight, now bathed in the mystical radiance of the moon — alive with 730 -* Hnvoi the life of its wild denizens. The wanderer has perhaps, like so many before him, devoted the best of his life to this strange but witching land of Masai-Xyika. Its witchery draws us still when we are back at home. Hourly and daily we hear it calling to us — this splendid, endless, unforgettable Masai-Xyika. APPENDICES VOL. II. -,. AITBXDIX A A Few Words about Herr C. G. Schillings' Collection of East African Mammals PROFESSOR PAUL MATSC1 1 1 1- A M()N(i those who have lived or who are now living, i. \ 111 the (jeniian I'.ast African colony, there are ;i L^'ood many \\'ho are convinced that tin: gradual thinning ol the wild lite out there is the outcome principally ot the expeditions ot sportsmen and ot collectors ot natural- 1 i history specimens. 1 hey have heard ot the immense (|iiantities ot antelope, hides and horns which travellers ol this class have amassed, and in all ^ood taith the\ Ldve expression to their astonishment that such people should lie tolerated. Thus it has lieen with C. ( i. Schillings, because he has ventured to make his wax trom the interior to therlin Museum. Hut the museums of Stuttgart, Munich, Vienna, Karlsruhe, and other cities have also been enriched by these very valuable gifts of specimens of the great African mammals. One can form no notion, from seeing a stuffed giraffe or rhinoceros in a museum, of the immense difficulties involved in the securing and preparing of such a specimen. When the animal has been shot and its skin carefully prepared — all the fat removed from it and every pre- caution taken against flaws, the skull and bones also having been cleaned separately — the collector has still to take immense pains about the transport to Kurope. The weight}' burden has to be carried on mens' shoulders to the coast, along dangerous tracks, often through marshes and almost pathless thickets, and across streams and rivers. 738 -* Collection of Kast African Mammals The ravages of insects and the damp atmosphere have to be fought against. There are long weeks ot anxiety before the goal is reached. All this trouble,-, to say nothing of the considerable expense, is involved in the bringing home in good con- dition ot a snig/c such specimen ; but Schillings has brought home quite a number ot giraffes, buffaloes, rhinoceroses, and elephants, a great number ot large antelopes, and hundreds ot hides and skins and skeletons of every descrip- tion, all of them in such good condition that they are suitable tor exhibition in museums. In this way he has made it possible to determine the lact that these great I ngulata differ essentially in various particulars from those to be found in other parts ot Africa, and that all these families are divided into secies conuncd \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* within certain regions, and each of them with distinct characteristics. I have been able to establish the fact that, even within the confines of German East Africa, there are two distinct species of giraffes, one living to the east of Kilimanjaro, the other in the Pangani region. Schillings has brought home specimens of both species, one of which is now known as (liraffa schillings!, in honour of its discoverer. The examination of these specimens has not yet been completed, but it has been made clear already that the animals killed in the Pangani region can all be distinguished from those secured in the Masai country. Between Kili- manjaro and the coast there are to be found quite different types of baboons, lions, zebras, and buffaloes from those in the Masai country. This fact is of great importance, and Herr Schillings, in enabling us to establish it, has rendered an important service to science. Thanks are also due to him for the careful way in which he has preserved for analysis the contents of the stomachs of animals, as well as the various parasites by which they are infested — ticks, lice, maggots, and the worms in their intestines. He has brought back with him also a great number of very valuable embryos, which further our knowledge as to the development of the Ungulata, their breeding-time, etc. ; the more so that these specimens have been accompanied always by written particulars as to the date at which they were obtained and other relevant circumstances. We need only glance at the complete list of the 740 -* Collection of Hast African Mammals mammals brought home by Schillings to realise the importance; of his collection. lie has collected a greater number of different species than any other traveller before him. lie has secured three-fourths ol the various species which were to be looked for in the; districts through which he travelled. lie has, moreover, discovered several species the existence ol which in or near (ierman Kast Africa had not been suspected. Great interest was aroused, for instance, by his discovery of a striped hya-na, which other travellers imagined they had seen, but had not captured. This is the; animal which I have' designated IIy(cna schillings}. The author killed one; specimen in 1896, but tin's unfor- tunately was not preserved. Xow, however, the: lu-rlin Natural History Museum contains quite a number of skins and skulls of this specie's, collected by I lerr Schillings, in iSgQ and 1900. on the- Masai highlands. A new spe:cies e>t hill-antelope, e>r the klipspringer, has also been discovered by him, which Ose'ar Neumann has designated Oreotragns schillings}. Among the Rodents there are also several new type's, while there are several other specie's among the: Ungulates which have still to be classified and named. I lerr Schillings' collections, the-n, provide a fund ol the most interesting revelations. 1 onlv wish th.it other such collections could be: made in e>the:r parts ol (ierman Kast Africa, when our knowledge would be sufficiently complete: to enable me to bring up to date my own book upe)n the mammals of the country, published nine- years ago. 74' With Flashlight and Rifle -*> LIST OF MAMMALS COLLECTED BY HERR C. G. SCHILLINGS. c.iftinvtf i'y //err Sefiilti/igs himself, with the exception „/ .\V.v. COMPILED nv PROFESSOR P. MATSCHIE, Custodian of the Royal Xalural History Museum at Berlin. Apes 15. Lyre-hat, Mr^adcrina froiix, Geoff'. 1. White-tailed guere/a, Cohlms can- l6- Kalir ™»ipire. Mcfrulcnna cor, Ptrs. tf'itits Thos '7- Dwurf bat, J/IY>//.S- /,W/,Y.V, Ptrs. 2. Angolan guereza, Cohbiix l>allialux. 1ara, Neumann. 26. Elephant-shrew, Macroxcclitlt'x nt- fcsce/is, Ptrs. 27. Cinnamon shre\v, Crucidiini ^ni/'i- /V/V.v, Ptrs. 28. Dark grey shrew, < 'roc/dura fiiuiosa, Thos. Lemurs 8. Dark, long-eared maki, Otolcmitr agisymbamtS) Cot [ 1 1. 9. \\"hite-tailed lemur, Ofo/ciiuir /tis/v/is, Ptrs. 10. Light-eared galago, Otogale kirki, Gray. 11. Pigmy galago, Cialago zansibaricns^ Mtsch. Bats 12. Flying-fox, Efomophorus xtnhl- 29. White-bellied shrew, Crociditni manni, Mtsch. Jixchcri, Pagenst. 13. Large nyctcris, Nyctrrix mac.rotix, 30. Hlack shrew, Crociitura ajf. ni'^ro- Oray. />AV(V?. Mtsch. .14. Lesser nycteris, Nyclcris liitcola, 31. Hedgehog, Krinaccnx allu'i-cntrix, Thos. Wagn. Collection of I [ast African Mammals Beasts of Prey Rodents iJ. Spotted hv;eua, Ci'iK'nlln ^cnn:- V>. Hare, l.cf>n-< i'i<'t<»'i'r, Tin.-;. //itns, Mtsch. 57. Ciround-squirrel, .\u's squirrel, ><'iitniiin v, Temm. '1 hos. IT. Long-eared fox, ( >/i>''vi>n nii'^iilnlis, j<). (in-eii squirrel, .^'i i/tn/s ^ii/tioi'i, Desm. All. Rhoads. }d. H luck -backed or silver jackal. do. Ta\vny squirrel, .sr ntnit* />/:// riii:rits, '1 lin:cs xc.liiniilli, Xoat k. Iluet. 37. Striped jackal, < 'nnis Imhtlii, Loreii/. ( i. drey sipiirrel, ^I'iiint* unitir/is/s, vs. Ma^ai lion, Uiii'ia in isiiicn, Xeuni. Pagenst. i i. L'kandia lion, Cnt'i-. |o!inston'< hinrns Xo.ick. jolnistii.'ii, Tiio.-. 4<>. Small-spotted S\vahili leo|>ard, d;. ])\varl dormouse. (irii/>///iint< I .cn/mi'ilH* s//.i/ii'//t'//.\ X'eum. ilium*, 1 i ne. 41. Large - spotted Masai leopard, '4- Blacked-headed trie-mouse. I>,'ii- / ./<>/>n;\'s in^rili'inis. True. 42. Serval, /.iiicllmi/i/nis ,-'i<'-uitlii> 1'erhaps in t\\'o species. Me- /nn^^ii'ii, i'.igenst. lanistic s|)eciim-ns also. dd. Xeumaun's striped mouse, Ar- 43. \\'ild cat, /-V//.V 1 1/'/\ /i/ivni, ( )liv. rit-'.tiit/iis ncniniiniii, Mtsdi. 44. Caracal, ( '/'/t///ts. Mtsch. T\\o black specimens Thos. also. '") Cirey r.tt. Mns hil-ifl mil iti, I'trs. (ii'lli'ltil Ili'll III I illli , 7''' Tlios. 7-. Hri.im'.s geiiiil, Iiit'ii'ii i'i>(hini, 4'). Shoit-tailed icl:|]ei:mou, I, (!/,'/, i Xo;;ck. m'liist.i. (iray. 7.v 1'eteis' ge|],;l. I >;f,,,/!llii< rii-iinis, V'. (ireat ichneumon. 1 1 <->-f«-///'. I'trs. differ., ( im. ; I . Iclnieiimcin, I li\/i>it/, ; ;. Ihvarl icliiieiinion, I Icln^iil'- ;:tf/,i. '1 hos. I hos. 77 KU-phai1.*, /./••"•> kiii :> /: . 'iici'i. 34 Strijied iciineiimon, ( rim'ti/t\'>'ii.\ ~,',i i*lns, 3V Katel. Mclln-ni, /;,/.'/•/, Sj,,,irm. True * Spei-io tli.-covt red l>y ('. (i. > hilliu.;-. 743 With Flashlight and Rifle 79. Neumann's tree-badger, Dcndro- 98. Musk antelope, Xcsotragus mos- hvrax neumanni, Mtsch. chains, V7on Dub. 80. Matschie's rock-badger, Procavia 99- IKvarf steinbuck, Raphiccros ncii- matschiei, Neumann. manni, Mtsch. 81. Dwarf rock-badger, J'rocavia John- IO°- ()lirebi' Onrcbia hastata, Ptrs. stoiti, Thos. ioi.*Klipspringer, Orcotragns schil- JT . l/iiifxi. Neum. 82. Mozambique rock-badger, Hetcro- ^ ' , , . TJ, 102. Waterbuck, Cobus at] . cllipsi- hyrax mosambicus, rtrs. prymnits, Ogilb. 83. Buhm's zebra, Hippotigris boc/nm, ^.^ rcedbuck Ccrvicapra Mtsch- W^v//, Thos. 84. Grant's zebra, Hippotigris granli, IO4 Chanler's reedbuck, Cen-icapra De Winton. chanleri, Kothsch. 85. Rhinoceros, Ccratorhinusaff.ciiad- 105. Impalla (Impallah), Acpyceros latits, Wagn. siiara, Mtsch. 86. Hippopotamus, Hippopotamus ajf. IO6. Grant's gazelle, Gazclla gmnti,. alyssinicus, Less. ]3rooke. 87. Wart-hog, Phacocharus aff. athio- 107. Thomson's gazelle, Gazclla thom- picus, Schreb. soni, Gtlir. 88.*Schillings: giraffe, Giraffa schil- Iog. Gerenuk gazelle, Lithocmnins lingsi, Mtsch. wallet i, Brooks. 89. Tippelskirch's giraffe, Giraffa icg.tClaike's gazelle, Ammodorcas tippelskirchi, Mtsch. clarkci, Thos. 90. Pa.ngaLm\>uttz\o,BuffelussHahelicus, no. Fringe-eared oryx, Orvx callotis,. Mtsch. (not yet named) (V). Thos. 91. White-bearded brindled gnu, Conno- IU- Kudu, Strcpsiaros strcpsiccros ch'ztcs albojubatus, Thos. (Pall.). 92. Coke's hartebeest, Bubal is cokci, II2. Lesser kudu, Strcpsiccros im- Gthr. bcrbis, Blyth. 93. Neumann's hartebeest, Bubal is II3- Masai bushbuck, Tragclaphus neitmanni, Rothsch. masaiciis, Neum. 94. Tiang, Damaliscns jimelu, Mtsch. II4. Livingstone's eland, Taurotragus 95. 'ReA'Du\\ieT,Ccphalolophusharveyit liviii^stonci, Sclat. Thos. 96. Peters' duiker, Ccphalolophus ocu- Edentate laris, Ptrs. I i5.JAnt-bear, Orvcteropus ivcrthcri, 97. Dik-dik, Madot/ua kirki, Gthr. Mtsch. * Species discovered by C. C. Schillings. f Only the 1. orris secured by the author. The animal \vas probably killed by Askari police near Masinde. The author cannot vouch for its belonging to the district. \ Secured by the author near Kilimanjaro. 744 AITHXDIX H A Synopsis of Herr C. G. Schillings' Collection of Birds coMi'ii.Ki) i;v PROFESSOR A. RKICIIKNO\V WITH REMARKS TI'OX THKIR DISTRIBUTION AND HABITS MY C. <). SCHILLINGS I I I:> collection ot birds brought together by I I err ± C. (i. Schillings, as the result chietly ot his last three expeditions in Mast Africa, and in part presented by him to the. Royal Zoological Museum in Berlin, com- prises more than i ,oco skins, belonging to ;, 5 5 species, and is one ot the most comprehensive ever yet achieved in those; regions. I ' ntortunately, a number ot other skins about ^50 in all were lost by the collector during their transport to luirope. Besides live newly discovered forms — namely, /'.u //i. Rchw. ; ami Lalainocichla scJu/liii^si. Ri'hw. a number ot these: ha\'e now been found for the first time m the country traversed, such as Rccitri'irostra ai'Cu'lta : /:///<'(/( •//.> 747 \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* gandiana ; Accipitcr nisns (the European sparrow-hawk), which had not hitherto been found south of Kordofan ; Irrisor senegalensis somaliensis\ A pus (equatorial! s\ Ant hits cajfcr, hitherto unknown outside South Africa; Anthoscopus junsculns ; and others. Yet other species, such as Pants fringillinus and Calandrella athensis, were hitherto known .' <> in only one or but a few variations. Of great scientific value also are series of birds of many kinds, notably several francolins and ducks and geese. Struthionidae i. Strut liio inasaicns, Xcum. The Masai velt. Kebaya Masai, IV. ; ol Donje 1'Engai, X. ; Kitumbin, X. ; Xjiri, Y. Often observed on the velt. In August, 18 young ones, but full grown, in a flock on the left bank of the Pangani, by the Masimani Mountains ; in March, a flock of 64 old birds, •of which 12 were hens. Throughout the year single cocks were noted, and some pairs, as well sometimes as one cock with two hens ; or two cocks with two hens were found together, as well as larger flocks numbering up to 15. Xests with S, 12, 17, and up to 25 eggs were found in September and October. By day the hens seem to brood, the cock sometimes being found not far from the nest. I found young birds only just out of their shells in Xovember (Xgaptukberg) ; others some days old in October and Xovember. Once in September I found 22 ostriches together, both sexes mixed, on the Xgaruka velt. Other places where I found them were Buiko, near Pangani, Arusha C'hini, Mcru Mountain, Xgaruka, Kitumbin Volcano, (iclcT Volcano, Matiom Plains, Lake Xakuro, Ukambani, Lake Xaiwasha (to the east of it , Ukamba, and Mto Simba, between Kibwesi and Tavcta. At the end of February a perfected egg ready for laying in other- wise inactive ovary — the result of copious feeding on freshly sprouting grass. Twice observed bathing in pools. Troubled by lice {Hippobosca stnttliionis, Olf.) ? 74* Collection of Birds Colymbidae 2. Lolyuihiis capciisis [Lcht. ] Salvad.). Njiri, II., \ I.; Lake Xakuro, I. With young ones about t\vo days old on Feb. I 5th on a small pool of rainwater, in a wood between Kibwesi and Kilimanjaro. Frequently on the Xjiri Lakes and Merker Lakes. Very often on Lake Xakuro and Lake Xayasha in January. Laridae 3. Gclochclidon nilotica (Tlasselg.). The Masai country, Pangani swamps, Heck Island, VIII. Seen only in numbers on Ileck Island in Pangani in August. 4. Hydi'ocliclidon Icttcoptcra (Schin/). Njiri, II., \ I.; Pangani swamps, Ilcck Island, VI 1 1 ; Lake Natron, IX. Seen often on the Njiri Lakes and on Lake Natron. Phalacrocoracidae 5. riialacn>a>ra.\- litcidns litgnbris Riipp. Meiker Lakes, XI. 'I his great cormorant was observed by me only on the Mcrkcr Lakes, Lake Natron, and the Njiri Lakes. While on the wing it gave out a curious whistling kind of cry. (>. Phaldtcrocoi'in ajricnnns (im.). Haganioyo, \"II. Seen cver\'\vherc frecjucnth', in the coast region between Dar-es-Salaam and Tanga, as \\ell as on rivers and lakes. 7. Atthiu^a ntfa < Lace]). Daud. . (,'cntral Tangani, III. Brooding. This strange-looking bird with a Miakc-likc neck I found nesting halfway up the 1'angani l\i\cr. Its ne^ts wei'e in the- branches of acacia-tries stretching over the river, about 14 or 15 icet above the water. I found them only on >mall islands in the middle of tin- stream. The egg-- are of a blui-h colour and covered with a strong coating of chalk. Pelecanidae S. Pc/i'i'diins nisi'HS (im. ( )n the X'ictoria X\',in/,i, the Merker Lakes, XI.; Lake X,t\'asha, I., fn qucntly. < )n the Xjiri s\\-anips, \'I., seldom. VOL. II. 740 With Flashlight and Rifle * Anatidae 9. Xyroca capcnsis ([Cuv.] Less.) Marker Lakes near Mcru Mountain, XI. This beautiful diving-bird is not often found on the lakes in the Masai country. Fully grown young birds 1 found in July. 10. Spatula clypcata (L.). The Masai country, Eastern Xjiri swamps, XII. Of the European shoveller, I have seen and shot only three specimens on the Eastern Xjiri swamps. 11. . -{iias crytJiroHiyncha Gm. Njiri, II., VI. ; Mcrker Lakes, X. Fully grown young birds were to be met with frequently on the Xjiri swamps in June and July. 12. Anas punctata Burch. Merkcr Lakes, XI. ; Xjiri, II., VI. 13. Dendrocygna i'iduata(\^r Western Xjiri, II. ; Lake Xatron, X. ; Victoria Xyanza, X. Comparatively seldom found in the Masai district. 14. Nettopus auritus (Boddv. \\'cstern Xjiri, VII. These also I have had few opportunities of observing. 15. Sarcidiornis melanotus ''Perm.,. Victoria Xyanza, XI. 1 6. Chcualopex acgyptiacus fL.;. Central Pangani, \\ . Dnncu- junge. To be met with all over the Masai district on lakes and rivers of all sixes. Their warning cries, a sort of quack or gabble, draw attention to them, whether they are up on the drier branches of trees or on the wing. On August 2/th, 1^99, I found a pair of Egyptian geese near the Pangani River with young ones about a fortnight old. The goose allowed me to get within about fifteen paces of her before she flew away. They arc very frequently to be met with on meadows adjoining the river, and they arc not very timid. In the middle of July I came upon unfledged young birds. 17. Plectropterus gambcnsis L. . Pangani River, III. Great flocks of them in March 1903, halfway up the Rufu River, near the Lafitti Hills. To the south of Kilimanjaro, on small pools on the vclt in September. Frequently on the Xjiri swamps. Often fly away out of the swamps in the evening to the grass\' plains :///' iisntig. 750 Collection of Birds Charadriidse 1 8. (ilarcola fiisca (L.). The Masai country. Heck Island, YIII. ; Xjiri swamps, \ I. I found these very numerous on Heck Island in August 1899; also on the Xjiri swamps in July. At the beginning of August they brought stalks and blades of grass to the island in their bills. 19. Cnrsorins tciniiiincki — Sw. Central Pangani, III. 20. Rhinoptilns bisi^iuitns (\ I aril. . Yumbe ya Mawe in Central Pangani, I Y. 21. Rhinoptilns cinctns Ilcugl. . Donjc Krok, IX. 22. Chni-ndrins £cojj'n>yi \Vagl. The Masai country. 23. Charndrins asinticns Pall. Merker Lakes, XI. 24. Charadrins inarginatHs tcncllns I lartl. '1 he Masai country. 2;. Chiiradi'ins :' I found thicknces mating and breeding on the Rufu River at the end of February. Towards evening they flew over the waters, giving out their clear, recurring notes. Dromadidae 31. Dnn/iiis ardcola Payk . Sadani, Bagamoyo, the Coast, IV., VI. I often found drab-plover together with different kinds of herons on the coast. Scolopacidae 32. Recurvirostra avocetta, L. Xjiri, V., VI. ; younger ones on the Mcrker Lakes, XI. Avocets, now rarely seen breeding on the German seaboard, I found nesting in large numbers in June 1903 on the Western Xjiri marshes. I found them also often on the salt and alkaline swamps all round. Their movements are very curious and interesting when their nests or young arc in danger. They fly hither and thither with incessant clear cries, now plunging into the shallow water, now bending down over the surface and darting from one island of reeds to another ; then going out into the deeper water, then rising again into the air. The way their legs hang down is very peculiar. 33. Iliinaiitopits Jiimantopus fL.). Vumbc ya Mawe, IV. ; Merker Lakes, XL The black-winged stilt I had many opportunities of watching. I saw three specimens in July on the coast between Bagamoyo and Pangani. I saw numbers in October on the Xatron Lake and Victoria Xyan/ca, in November on the Merker Lakes, and in January on Xakura Lake and on the Klmcntaita and Xayasha Lakes. 34. Pavoncella pugna.v (\*.~}. .Merker Lakes, XI. 35. Totanus littorens fL.). Vumbc ya Mawe, IX.; Xguaso Xyiro, X. 36. Totiinns ochropiis 'L.}. I'pper Pangani, V. ; Merker Lakes, XI. 37. Totanus glareola L/;. The Masai country. 752 * Collection of Birds I have seen these only in the winter months on a few occasions. vS. rriiigoidcs hypoleucns (L.). The Masai country, Kibaya Masai, III. I found these all the year round on every kind of water. ]t/s /cor/, Hurch. X-aptuk, XI.; Donje l^rok, IN.; Donje X-ai, VIII. Kori bustards are found all over the dry plains. Ka>y to shoot at midd.iy, but very shy in the morning and e\emni;. \\ hen shot at they LM\e out a deep, hoar.-e cr\'. At miilday the\- re->t in the shade of the bu-die^. 47. /:n/>///.\\ l\ch\\. Njiri, III. : Donje I-'.rok, IX.; N^'aptuk. X. I found a newly laid eu^ ot tin'-- bustard in |ul\\ It is ot a pale yello\vish-bro\vn eoloin-, \\ith reddish bn>\\ n and blue spots ; it i^ spherical in >hape, and measures ;M x ^.\ millimetres. ). Marao k,m.;a, \. With Flashliht and Rifle A nc\vly laid egg of this bustard was brought to me, measuring 52 x 44 millimetres. The evolutions of the bird on the wing arc very quaint and comical. Gruidae 49. Balearica regulonun gibbericeps, Rchvv. Merkcr Lake. I found this crane mating in July. In September and January I came upon great flocks of them on Kilimanjaro. I found many also in Kavirondo, on the Nguaso-Xyiro River, and on the Xayasha Lake. At night they utter a curiously grating kind of cry. Parridae 50. ActopJiiliis africanns 'Gm.^ Rufu River, VI. ; Xjiri swamps, VII., VIII. I found the floating nests of this jacana in July on the Mvamps, with its wonderfully coloured eggs not vet nearlv hatched. ^ o o ^ - 51. Microparra capcnsis (A. Srn.). Western Xjiri swamp-. VII. I brought down a pair on July 6th. At some distance from the river they were not very shy. Rallidae 52. Civ.v crcx (L.) Central Pangani, III. I have seldom been able to start corncrakes from out of the reeds. 53. Liinnocorax nii^cr (Gm.). Donjc Lrok, VIII. ; Rufu River, III. ; Xjiri swamps, VII. ; Kibaya Masai, III. This bird gives out a very distinctive cry. 54. Ortygoinctra pusilla obscnra (Xeum. . Xjiri swamps, \'I. Seen three times ; killed once. 55. Gallinnla cliloropus fL.;. Xjiri swamps, VII. Moorhens I found also in large numbers on Lake Xayasha. 56. Fiilica cristata, (im. Lakes Xakuro and Xayasha and the western swamps, VII. Great flocks in January on Lake Xayasha. I cannot subscribe to O. Xcumann's statement that these coots dislike warm waters. 754 Collection of Birds Turnicidae 57. '/'nn/i.i' Icpurana (A. Sm.). Xijaptuk, X. ; Xjiri, \ I. I found hemipodes breeding in May ; y 0111114' ones somewhat later. They have a curious wlii/zin^ kind of flight, the lien coming down a^ain very soon in a strange upright position, with win^s outstretched. They ^ct wind of do^s very quickly. When started without do^s they are difficult to come upon a^ain. Pteroclidse vS. Ptcroclcs gnttiimlis satnratioi\ Hart. Donje Krok, \r!II. ; Xjiri, \'. ; \\cst of Kilimanjaro, VI II. 59. Ptcroclcs (tccorntus, Cab. Xjiri, VI. ; Vumbe ya Ma\ve, I V. 60. rtcrocliinis c.i'tistiis Tern. . Donje Krok, \"III. ; Njiri, \'I These three species of sandiM'ouse are somewhat shy. In dry weather — July, August, and September- -they came singly and in Hocks, a little before sunrise, to certain special watering-places ; the flocks run to about thirty birds. They come down to the surface of the water from a ^reat height, and with lively cries. Their flight is rapid. On the win;^, all sand^rouimani, III.; N;^uaso-N\'iro, X. I found the sacred ibis somewhat shy, and on tin- imani, III. Then.- is scarcely any bird-note more distinctive to the Masai district thin that of the /W^V/I/AV// ; it inves out its rir^'in^ cr\", " 1 1 iiliciti* /td/tt'/d, nia.'kctii .' " mostly t'i\vards i-\'enin.;'. (>]. /7i'^'iit//s nntii'ii i/ii'i's ( I lasseli. ) N'ictoria N.in/a, IX. Ciconiidas L \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* of" rivers. Great concourses of them prey upon the locusts. Unfortunately they are killed in great numbers for their feathers. Even when caught fully grown they become surprisingly tame. 65. Abdiinia abdiini (Lcht.). Pangani swamps, III. Found combining forces with storks to prey upon the locusts. 66. Tantalus ibis, L. A breeding-colony, Pangani River, VII. A large breeding-colony on the trees on an island in the Rufu River. Big young ones in July. The colony was broken up the year after. 67. Ciconia ciconia (L.). Pangani swamps, III. ; Kikuyu, I. White storks are to be found wintering in great numbers in Equatorial East Africa. In March, and at the beginning of April, I saw great flocks of them lying in wait for locusts. In January 1896 I saw over two hundred on Lake Xaya-ha 68. Anastomus lamelligerns, Tern. Pangani River, III. Found in 1896 and 1900 on the Rufu River, where Prince Johannes Lowenstcin killed some also in 1903. Frequently met with on the Manga Lakes. 69. EphippiorJiynchus sencgalensis (Shaw). Masai-land, I met with pairs on a few occasions. This saddle-billed stork has a beautiful action on the wing, floating along slowly. Found them mating in August. Phcenicopteridae 70. 1} kcenicoplenis rose us, Pall. The velt between Kilimanjaro and Mem Mountain, XI. ; Xguaso-Xyiro, X. 71. PJiccnicopterus minor, Geoff. The velt between Kiliman- jaro and Meru Mountain, XI. ; Xguaso-Xyiro, X. Flamingoes arc to be seen in thousands on Lake Natron. Both species frequent in Xovcmber the small pools on the velt, alive with crabs. The old birds are distinguishable by their beautiful red colouring. Scopidae 72. Scopus uinhretta, Gin. Masai country, X. I found the eggs of the umbrettc in October, three at a time. 756 Collection of Birds Ardeidae 73- Nycticorax uycticorax L.;. Pangani swamps, III. I killed only one night-heron, on Heck Island. 74. Nycticorax lenconotns \\agl.,.. Central Pangani, III. 7v /Jn/an't/i's atricapill/is 'Af/cl. ;. Central Pangani, III. 76. Ai'i/t'f/ti sliinni \\'agl. . Masangolcni, II.; Kibaya Masai, III. 77. liitbiilcns this ( L. J. Pangani. I found single specimens breeding by Pangani. 75. Antca inclanoccpJiala, Vig. Childr. Masimani, III. I found the eggs of this heron at the end of March. The nests are verv like those of the Kuropean heron. 70,. , \nica golialh, Cn t/.schm. Rufn River, Athi River, Kikuyu, I., IV. I found giant herons comparatively seldom on rivers and lakes. 50. Mclanophoyx anlcsiaca , \\agl.,. Dar-es-Salaam, I V. ; Tanga, VI. 51. llcroiUas alha(\..). Central Pangani, III. ; \jiri. \'II. S_\ llcnniias ^ulnris ( Hose.). Sadaani. Sea-coast, \". Sv I Icrodias garzctla I -. Pangani River, V. ; Njiri, VII. The^e egrets are comparatively shy and cautious. Thousand^ of them on their breeding-place- near I'anga \\ere slaughtered by feather-hunters. Shooting regulations are much needed in regard to these birds. Columbidse 84. / '/little <;i/:\i lif/n'/rosfrf's, Sw. Donje h'.rok, X. ; Huiko, \'l. ! ha\'e seldom come across this species of dove, and found it shy. S;. ( o/niiih.i in nest. These beautiful large do\-t-s are very like our ringdoves. They were to be tound (among other place--) in the region west of Kilimanjaro in very large numlv:> in July, at a height of about 7,000 tt. They were alter the berries < .f a kind ot I'.iiclcn tree, known to the Masai a-> " I.eurien.' 1 |(>und With Flashlight and Rifle -* young ones in the nests at this time. I have only once seen this dove on the plains. 86. Tnrtnr sc.ncgalc.nsis (!>.)• ^j'n'> VI. ; Ngaptuk, X. ; West of Kilimanjaro, VIII. 87. Tnrtnr /iigens (Riipp.). Xjiri, VIII.; West of Kili- manjaro, VI 1 1. 88. Tnrtnr semitorquatus (Riipp.). Moshi, IV., XII.; West of Kilimanjaro, VIII. 89. Turtnr capicola tropica, Rchw. Njiri, VIII. ; Ngaptuk, X. ; Moshi, XI. ; West of Kilimanjaro, VIII. 90. Tnrtnr ainbiguus pcrspicillatns Fsch., Rchw. Xjiri, V., VIII.; West of Kilimanjaro, VIII. This bird has a very peculiar call. 91. Tympanistria tyinpanistria (Tern.). Moshi, IV., XII. 92. CJialcopelia chalcospilos (Wagl.). Donjc Erok, Ngaptuk, X. ; Moshi, XII. 93. Chalcopclia afra (L.). Moshi, XL, XI I. 94. (Ena capensis (L.) The middle reaches of the Pangani, III.; Xgaptuk, X. This long-tailed dwarf pigeon darts, like a badly directed arrow, hither and thither. Phasianidae 95. Xmnida reickenowi, Grant. Xjiri, V. 96. Acrylliuin vnltnritnn/i ( I lardw.) Pangani, III. Vulturinc guinca-fo'.vl : Xjiri, V. ; Moshi, IV. These guinea-fowl arc in the habit of scraping and scratching the soil to such an extent that in one case they caused me to lose track of a rhinoceros. The birds so rake up the velt for some distance near their drinking-place that it looks like a riding- school or drill-ground, as Rcichenow has remarked in his work.* 97. Pternistes leucoscopus iiif/isc-.itns, Cab. Pangani, VI I. ; Donje Erok, IX. ; Westerly range of Kilimanjaro, VII. ; Marango Kanga, V., IX. -* Collection of Birds About dawn the yellow-breasted francolin likes to perch on the brandies of trees brought clown to the ground by velt-fires. This bird hides itself in the thick grass as soon as a human being approaches. So far as I have observed, the very old cccks arc of a rather dark colour. Their clear penetrating call sounds like " ggrruaci ggrruaci djrrnai." 98. I'raiicolinus schiitti) C'ab. Kilimanjaro, \ III. This gorgeously pluincd francolin is addicted to the mountain- woods, especially near the smaller clearings or belts of the forest. I found very young ones, just hatched, at the beginning of June. Only once have I seen these birds on the wing on the tableland about 5,000 feet above sea-level . Their startlingly clc ar call when taking flight sounds like " terrr." 99. 1'rancoliuiis hildi'liniiidt!, C'ab. Donjc Krok, IX.; Xgap- tuk, X. '1 his francolin does not live on the open veil. It is only nut with in well-wooded, mountainous stretches of the country, which offer plenty of covert. 100. /•*nuu~<>linHS /ilnci/sis, (irant. Donje Krok, IX.; Xgap- tuk, X. ; westerly ranges of Kilimanjaro, VII., VI I I. '1 his francolin is an inhabitant (t the high African tableland. It is frequently met with on the grassy slopes, and hilly and lock-strewn plains on the west of Kilimanjaro. According to my observations, this bird, in its appearance and habits, much res.-mblcs the common parti id^c. Its cali is similar to that of I'~ni'icolinns ^mnti, but its rhythm differs, and the call of the African partridge sounds more like that of /V;v//.r hira, \\'i-sterly ranges (i kiliinan- jaro, VI !., VIII. The clear, sharp penetrating call of this small francohn sounds like " ku djidji, kii djidje, kn djidje." \\htn the bird i- startled and rising on tin1 win;/ the call sounds like " kidiiix'djii edjiredjire.' With Flashlight and Rifle -* 102. Coturnix delegorgiiei, Dcleg. Xjiri II., VI. This quail is found in June near the sea-coast and is particularly common between the Pangani and Sadaani Rivers, a few miles inland. The natives of Satiko have the birds on sale in little cages, made of reeds, with small shells as receptacles for water. Vulturidse 103. Otogyps anricitlaris TDaudj. Donje Erok, VII. In the year 1897 I was able to establish the fact for the first time that this large vulture is to be found in the Masai country. One or more specimens may be noticed among large gatherings of other vultures. 104. LopJiogyps occipitalis (Burch). Donje Erok, VIII., IX.: Xjiri, VII. 105. * Pseudogyps africanus scJiillingsi, Eil. Donje Erok, \ III., IX.; Xjiri, VII.' This vulture was discovered by myself. My late and lamented friend Baron Carlo von Erlanger described and named this species. I collected about ten specimens in the westerly ranges of Kilimanjaro, but I am sorry to say I lost all of them in a consignment sent to Europe, which went astray. This species mates at the beginning of Ma}' ; its eyries arc to be found in the top branches of high acacia-trees. I secured some young ones, nearly full}' fledged at the end of August. I also collected an egg, which presumably belongs to this species, in the westerly swamps of the Xjiri. This egg is of a whitish colour, top and bottom are blunted ; its size size is 87 x 65 mm. 1 06. Gyps riippclli, Bp. Xjiri, VI Riippell's vulture is frequently met with in the Xjiri district. Very old birds may be distinguished by their light plumage, as Carlo von Erlangcr states. 107. Xcopliron inonaclnis. Tern. Xjiri, V. This carrion vulture is met everywhere in these regions, and feeds on human excrement. It appears in the early dawn, * The species marked by an asterisk were discovered by the author. 760 * Collection oi Birds before the- larger vultures gather, to feed on the carrion, and is a remarkably tame bird. loS. Xcop/troit pcrciioptei-ns i'L.). Masai-land IV., VII.; ( )1 Donje I'Kn-'ai, VIII. The Iv^yptian vulture or aasvo^el is very rarely met with in these regions. Falconidae 109. Scrpciitarins xccrctarius (Miller . The secretary-bird is extremely clever at keeping out of tin- ran;j;e of a i;"un. Should the hunter approach too closely, it commences to run with extreme rapidity. The Ljait is rather chim>y, and reminds one oi the trot ot mammals. The bird is rather rare in this district, but is not easily overlooked on account of his peculiar shape. i io. Mclicrax polivptcms, Cab. Masai-land. ill. Ciri'/is fYiir^/is (I..,. Middle ranges ot the 1'an^ani Valley, 111. Very numerous in January on the' plains ot the lake-districts of Xaiva-dia, Klmentaita, and Nakuro. I l 2. ( ii'cii:: ii/acr/inis (iin. . Nt^aptllk, X. kiara^ua. I I tv ( nr/'.\ raini'/irns 1 ),nid. . Between Kilimanjaro and M-. ru MI luntain, X 1. 114. . \stnr tacltiro Daud.). Moshi. \'I!I. 115, . \stit r nit laiicL 'itcus A. Sm... Aruia l)jou, IX. I l o. ./(>'//'//(';• i/i.\fts \ .. . between Kilimanjaro and Mem Mountains, XI. The sparrow-hawk \\~as nc^ver betorc- traced so tar south. 1 killed a lemale in Xovcn.bcr I <^U v 117. . /<•<•////(•/• ininitllns tr<>pi,-/fd/i't> ll!i>lh"^!'illll 111 1'f/is < ccipittilis I'.iiii. N'ictoi'ia X\an/a, XI. I loimd this hawk betwc-en Sotika and I.mribwa and killnl .1 specimen. i Jo. .1,/n/ut /V//,M i Tein. . Masai-land, X. IX. XII. 1 he tawny caidc, u Inch feeds on ca'Tii >n. is common. 7') I \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* 121. Ualidctus vocifcr (Baud.). Masai-land. This sea-eagle is to be seen everywhere on African rivers and lakes, and is easily recognised by its loud and clear call. 122. Patidion Juilidetus (E.). Bagamo, VI. Ospreys occur near the sea coast. Xot observed by myself inland. 123. Butco desertoruni fBaud). XTayasha Lake, I. 124. Butco augur Riipp. Bonje Erok, XI. 125. JJilvus (.cgyptius (Gm.). Masai-land. The Egyptian black kite is very tame when not molested, and swoops down on the meat thrown away near the camp, and some- times carries off meat offered to it. Its evolutions in flight are amusing to the weary and lonely traveller. Bird-skins spread out to dry have to be guarded against its attacks. 126. Hclotarsus ecaudatus (Baud.). Masai-land, V., XI., XII. The batcleur eagle feeds only occasionally on carrion. I always found it to be a shy and cautious bird, and have observed it carry- ing serpents into mid-air. I nearly killed, with a stick, one bird which had fallen asleep and lay on the soil of the forest about midelay. The bateleur eagle goes through wonderful evolutions in its flight. 127. Falco biannicns (Tern.). Eleloma ravine, I., British East Africa. This falcon joincel other birds of prey in their chase of locusts, which were swarming in tremendous clouds across country. I shot one which had its stomach filled with a large number of locusts. 128. Falco minor (Bp.). Xgaptuk. A couple of these falcons were found near my camp on the Ngaptuku Mountain. All other birds were frightened when these falcons made their appearance. 129. Ccrclincis vcspcrtina (E.). Middle reaches of the Pangani, III. ; Vumbe ya Mawe, IV. Large flocks of reel-footed falcons and lesser kestrels made war upon locusts about April. 130. Ca-chncis tiiinnncnlits (E.). Masai-land, Pangani River, I I. I only killed one kestrel in February. 762 * Collection of Birds 131. Ccrchncis iicninanni ;/Flcisch.). Middle ranges of Pan- gani, III. Strigidae 132. ]>nbo lactcus (Tern.). Vnmbc ya Mawc, IV. ; Xjiri, VI. I have met with this caidc-owl not more more than ten times during my travels. 133. Pisoi'hina capcnsis 'A. Sin.). Pare mountains, III. I found this owl in the middle of leaf}- shrub. A crowd of little birds molested it. When wounded it uttered a peculiar snarling, growling kind of sound. 134. Asia tiisnclla (Daud. . X^are Ron^ai, \ . This long-eared owl was met with in the hi^h ^"rass of the velt. I tried to shoot at it on different occasions, but found it very shy, and it was only after repeated attempts that I secured a specimen. i^. Asio Icitcotis 'Tern.;. Donje Krok, X., XI.; ol Donjo 1'Ln-ai, XI., X. 136. Crlaiicidiiun pcrlatnin (Yicill.). l)("i;i]'e Lrok, VIII. ; X-aptuk, X. \'er\- characterise is the call ot tlu's little wood-owl, heard about midday durini;" the hottest time. It sounds very much like the chromatic scale of I 5ohoh6hohohu-i-u. The ni^ht-call resembles that of the luiropean wood-o\\l, onl\- a trif.e mure subdued. I his owl hides in the top branches of hii;'h acacia-trees. '37 X }'/•// ////// :^(>{\\ I foinul a spottc'd barn-owl sitlini; on t ,\ o ne\\'-laid e^^'s in an abandoned nest ol an umbrette. Psittacidse I ^<). roioc:f>!talns ritfrscn!i'is I\iipp . Taveta, 1 1. ; X^apiuk.X.; I)jipe Lake, XII.; middle ran^e> ot l'an;.,ani. III., I\". ; Kiniai'i . Lakes, III. These parrots sail through the air Happing their \\in-s in a \Yith Flashlight and Rifle ^ peculiarly rapid manner, screaming loudly and clear!}' all the while. Their nests arc mostly placed in baobab-trees. 140. Poioccplialns iiiasaiats Kschr., Rchw.;. Xayasha Lake, I. Musophagidae 141. Clii"McrJiis Icncogastra ("Riipp.j. Donjc Krok, VI 1 1., IX.; Xgaptuk, X. The alarum-turaco is well named, the inexperienced traveller being easily deceived by its imitation of a sheep's bleating or dog's barking. Sometimes these birds are rather tame ; generally speak- ing, the\- are of a distrustful nature. Turacoes have a curiously clever way of slipping through the thorn}- acacia-scrub without hurting themselves. They perch on the top branches of thorn- bushes just as other birds do on leafy trees, and are there entirely protected against the attacks of birds of prey. I found only green seeds in their stomachs. 142. 1 'nraciis liai'tlanbi ( Lschr., Rchw. . Donjc Krok, XIII. Cuculidas 143. Centropus superciliusiiS) Ilempr., Khr. Mcrkcr Lakes, XL; Xjiri, VI.; Moshi, IV. The penetrating call of this cuckoo, sometimes heard at night, is one of the characteristic bird-cries of the velt. The nests are disorderly, loose structures, built not very high from the ground, in shrubs ; I found the white eggs in March. 144. Clainator glandarins (L.). Victoria Xyan/.a, XII. 145. Clauiator jiicobiinis (Bodd. .. Yumbe ya Ma\\e, IV.; Lafitti Mountain, III. ; middle reaches of the Pangani, III. ; Moshi, XII. 146. Cnciilus solitarius, Step. Middle reaches of the Pangani, III. ; Mcrkcr Lakes, XL ; Djipe Lake, XII. ; Moshi, XII. The call of this cuckoo has three peculiar notes. ( )nc hears it frequently at night, and it resembles then the call of an owl. The bird is very shy. 764 * Collection of Birds 147. Cncitliis canorns, L. Middle reaches of the 1'angani, III.; Moshi, \\. 148. Chrysococcy.v c///>/r//s Hodd.). Middle reaches oi the1 Pangani, III.; middle reaches of the Rufu, III. Young ones \vcrc found in the nest of weaver-birds. The golden cuckoo shows a preference for depositing its eggs in the nests of I^loccns schillings!, Rch\v., which are hung from twigs depending over the water. In March I came acro-s a number of young golden cuckoos, which had ousted the brood ot the weaver-birds. 149. ( 'lirysococcyx klaasi fSteph.;. Moshi, IV"., XII. (Contrary to O. Neumann's experience, I met with the lesser golden cuckoo constantly in the neighbourhood of Moshi the whole year round. Neumann only found L'/i. ciiprciis, and, later on, C/i. klaasi near the Victoria N van/a. Indicatoridae i ^o. Indicator indicator (im. . I)<">nje Krok, IX.; Ngaptuk, X. I have never been able to ascertain whether the honey-guide itself feeds on the honey or bees after guiding the traveller to tlv hive. 151. Indicator major, Stcph. Kilimanjaro, VI I I. ; CieleT \ ( ilcano tableland, X. I 52. Indicat<>r ininoi\ Steph. Merker Lakes, XI. Capitonidse i ; v Lvhins inclanofitcrus 1'trs. . Is.irar.igua, XI. ; M(^hi, X 154. / 'ricJioln'ina /ii('rri//"s//ii/. ( 'ab. I)t>nje I'.mk, XI.; Ngaptul X. ; Moshi, XII. i^. />/ii'('a//<>(/i'/i kiliincHsc Shell. . Kihmani.iro, XI. A youiig hinl with a whitish beak, not known beti>re in tin State-. VOL. II. ~'>S -() With Flashlight and Rifle ^ 156. Barbatnla aflinis, Rchw. Xgaptuk, X.; Mati6m Moun- tains, X. 157. T rachyphoniis erythrocephaluS) Cab. Donjc Erok, VIII. 158. Trachyplionns boehnii, Fsch., Rchw. Mornbo, II. (eggs in a hollow) ; Donjc Erok, IX. ; Djipe Lake. I found a nest of this bird in a mouse-hole in the middle of a caravan-road, about February. Picidae 159. Dendromus chrysnrns snalielicns, Rchw. Moshi, IV. 1 60. Dendromus nnbicns (Gm.). Middle reaches of the Pangani, III. ; Xgaptuk, X, ; Donje Erok, VIII. ; Moshi, \\ . 161. Mcsopicns spodoceplialns r/todeogasier(¥°>c\\v.^c\\\\'.). Xjiri, V., VI., VII.; Donje Erok, VIII.; middle reaches of the Pangani, III. ; Ol Donjc 1'Eng ai, X. 162. Mesopicns nainaqnns (A. Lent). Xjiri, II. VI. 163. Dendropicus hartlaubi, Main. Xjiri, V. ; Yumbc ya Mawe, IV.; Donje Erok, VIII., IX.; Xgaptuk, X. ; Moshi, IV. ; westerly ranges of Kilimanjaro, VII. I have occasionally seen woodpeckers perched on branches, but I am sorry to say my notes got lost with a consignment of birdskins forwarded to Europe. Dendromus nnbicns, Mesopicus spodoceplialns, and Dendropicns liartlaubi were found by m^ in September, gathering in large flocks round the hills of the white-ant. Coliidae 164. Co/fits lencotis ajjinis, Shell. Moshi, IV., XII., XIII. At starting colics fly in a bux/ing manner, Happing their wings frequently ; they sail afterwards quickly along with extended wings, without any movements or strokes , but before perching on a shrub, they flap their wings again in a violent manner. They hide themselves in bushes or shrubs which are overgrown with creepers. 766 Collection of Birds Trogonidae 165. I Ictci-otr»^\>n rillatnin (Shell.' \\'. Kilimanjaro, VIII.. at a height of about 5,000 feet. I met this beautiful many-coloured trogon near the forest-belt. It \vas perched on a branch, and without fear whirled its win^s in a peculiar manner, uttering all the while a low plaintive call. Coraciidae 1 66. Coracias grtrrnhiS) L. Masai-land. 167. Comtciat caudatiis, L. Donje Krok, \"III., IX. ; X'^ap- tuk, X. i6S. /'.f/rys/ouii/s afcr ( Lath. . Moshi, XII. Bucerotidas 1 6/uor:'.'is «i/l'r Schlep. . Tare Mountains, III. ; easterly X jiri swamps, \". 170. Jlj'ctiiitstt's iTi's/df/is (Riipp.). Pare-ya-Pcsa, III.; Meru Mountains, VIII. 171. Loplioccros tnclriuolciicns A. I.cht. . Masai-land. 172. Loplioccrox crythorliynclins (Tern. . Xjiii, \"III.; I )»: ;e l;.n»k, VIII. 1 he hornbills are extremely \\-ary and shy. Approaching tlu hunter, they change their direction at thr last moment, so aN'm'din.;' the gunshot, ('aptivr bii'ds are very tame and docile, and show MirprisiiiL;' mental capacity'. 1 hry are ea-ie>t to ,-h'int trom an ambu-h amon;^' triiit-tri¥f<. Alcedinidas 17 v ( t'tT/c nidis I.. . I'an^ani Ki\'er, III. 17.}. //', I'trs. M, >hi, IV. 767 With Flashlight and Rifle ^ 176. Halcyon semiaenileus Jiyacinthinus^ Rch\v. Korongo, III. A kingfisher startled by myself one evening at the end of October, returned continually to a candelabra euphorbia-tree, but I could not discover its nest. 177. Ispidina picta (Bodd.;. Moshi, IV. Meropidae 178. Melittophagus mcridionalis, Sharpe. Njiri, \'. \'III.; Donje Erok, VIII. 179. M elittopJiagus cyanostictus (Cab.j. Ngaptuk, I. ; GeleT Volcano table-land, X. ; Moshi, IV. 180. Melittophagus bullockoides (A. Sm.). Kiraragua, XI.; Nakuro Lake, I. 181. M crops albicollis (Vieill.; Djipe Lake, XII. 182. JMerops persicus Pall. Masai-land. Bee-eaters very common. Upupidae 1 83. Upupa africana, Bchst. Middle reaches of the Pangani, III. 184. Irrisor senegalensis somaliensis, Grant. Xjiri, \'I. ; Matiom, XI. 185. Rhinopomastus cabanisi (Krl.). Xgaptuk, X. ; Kitumbin Volcano, IX. The tree-hoopoes are very shy birds. The mocking-hoopoes cling to the bark of large trees like woodpeckers. I have observed them hanging head downward. These birds have a strange shrill call and keep bowing their heads in a very peculiar way. Caprimulgidae 1 86. Capriinulgus fru'iiatns, Salvad. Xorth-west Kilimanjaro, VIII. 187. Crtpi'iuiiilgns fossci ' (\'crr.; Ilartl. Donje l^rok, \ III. I found these nightjars breeding during March. Rising on their wings they utter a very low, hardly perceptible, call. Xot quite full\- fledged young ones were discovered by me in Xovember, near the Mcru Mountain. 768 Collection of Birds Macropterygidse 1 88. Apus apus L.). Donje Krok, XI. ; Kilimanjaro, XII. 189. Apus (cquatorialis v. Miiller. Donje Krok, XI.; Pare, VIII. Under certain atmospheric conditions these two species of swift ididc swiftly across the velt. 190. Apus strcubcli > 'Hart!.;. Maran-u, V. 191. Apus affinis ((jr. I lardw.). Masai-land. 192. Tachornis parvus uiyoclmnis Rchw.,. Mruasi Pan^ani, 22, VII. Hirundinidae 193. Riparid cinctd Bodd. . Masai-land. I observed these martins on the steep banks of a dry torrent- stream iu December. 194. ki pa riot rujigula Kschr., Rchw.. X^aptnk, X. ; Donje Krok, IX. ; Kilimanjaro, VII. 195. I lint udo x'riscopv^a, Sund. Xjiri, VI. 190. Ihntiido 1'iistica, K. Upper reaches ot the Pan^ani, I V. 197. llintiido sin /////, Keach. Moshi, 1\. Kj8. Hint ndo puclla, Tern., Schl. Masai-land. \fj<). Ilintiido inoi/tcii'i, I lartl. Xisiptuk, X. ; Donjc- Krok, IX. 200. llintiido cinini, Kchw. Xjiri, \. ; Donje Krok, IX.; Kilimanjaro. Kar^e (locks of l!irn>id<} unnttcin, nisiicn, cnina, and piiclla \\i-re hunting for food during the Xo\embt-r evenings at a In i^ht of 7,000 feet on the Xs^aptuk Mountains. 201. rsalidiiprocnc liol»t>ic!n'ita 'Sund.. Donjc Krok, IX. Masinde. Musicapidse 202. liniittii'iiis piillidits I/IH >'i/// Kradornis grisciiS) Rchw. Njiri, \ II.; Ngaptuk,X. ; Donje Krok, \*III.; Kilimanjaro, \'II. 204. Meluiiornis atcr tropicalis ('Cab.). Njiri, VI. ; Moshi, I \'. 2Ov ^Iriscicapa grisola, K. Njiri, VII.; Moshi, NIL 206. Alscona.v in filial us (Hartl.). Victoria Nyan/a; Kitoto, NI. 207. .. llsconax innrinns, Fschr., Rcli\v. Donje Krok, IX. ; Moshi, \\ . ; Kilimanjaro, VII. ; Nguaso Njiro, N. ; Gele'i Volcano, N. 205. Chloropcta natalensis inasaica, L'schr., Rch\v. Kiraragua, \\'cst Kilimanjaro. 209. Bias innsicns ' 'Vicill.). Masai-land, Para \Ta Mabo^'o, III. 210. Batis pnclla, Rclnv. Donje Erok, Ngaptuk, X. ; Matiom, N. ; Gclci' X'olcano, N. ; Kilimanjaro, VII. ; Moshi, 1 \". 211. Tcliitrca pcrspicillata snaliclica (Rch\v.;. Merkcr Lakes, XI. ; Donje Krok, IN, XL ; Moshi, IV., NIL Towards the evening these birds choose their resting-places in the high and dry branches of trees, standing in a thick and impenetrable pori-tree. Laniidae 212. EitrocepJialus r'nppclli, Bp. Njiri, VI. ; middle reaches of the Pangani, III. ; Donje Krok, VIII. ; Yumbe \-a Ma\ve, IV. This shrike is a very shy and wary bird. 213. Prionops talacoina, A. Sm. Moshi, IV., NIL 214. Xilaiis afcr minor, Sharpc. Njiri, \' 1 1. ; Ngaptuk. N. ; Donjc Krok, VII., IN. 215. Pomatorhynchus australis minor ''Rchw. . Njiri, \T. ; Donje Krok; Moshi, IV., NIL 216. CliloropJmneiis qnadricolor 'CassJ. Moshi, I\". 217. Chlarophoncus sulpJiurcopectus clirysogastcr ''Sw.\ Ngaptuk, N. ; Donje Krok, NI. This shrike's call is according to the chromatic scale c,(l,g,g,£. The bird, hidden among the leaves of shrubs, repeats this call frequently. 218. Pclicimns catJieinagmoins ^Rchw. . Donje Krok, IN.; Yumbc va Mawe I V. * Collection of Birds 210,. Laniarius funcbris 'Ilartl.. Xgaptuk, X. ; Kilimanjaro VII. ; Moshi, IV. Tin's shrike utters metallic h'.-11-like calls. 220. Laniarius icthiopicus (im. . Moshi, I \ ., XII. The sustained sweet notes uttered by this shrike ahvays indicate the presence of water. 221. Dryoscopns cnbla litiinatits -llartl.). Donje Krok, IX.; Moshi, IV. 222. V rolestes (CqnatoriaiiS) Rehw. Masai-land. 223. I.aniiis linincntiis, Stanl. Moshi, IV., XII. 224. Lanins aiiidalns^ Cab. Middle reaches of the I'angani ; Xjiri, VI. 22;. l.anins ininoi\ (jin. Vutnbc \'a Ma\\-e, IV. ; M(-slii, I\ . This Kuropean shrike I found in April. 220. Latrius colliinO) L. Moshi, I\".; Mumias, X'ieloria X\'an/.:t, XII., I. This red-backed shrike emigrates during the winter months very far south. Mr. V. (T. Jackson told me that numerous birds of this species had been observed near the Xayasha Lake, arriving t lii-re Irom more southern climes. 227. Siginodits tricolor (iray . Arusha I)jou, IX. These- shrikes were mostly found on high trees near the clearings ot high-timbered forests. Corvidse 225. Comts scrtpnlatiis, l),iud. l)o;ije l-'rok, XI. 220. {\irrultiiralhicollis Lath. . Masai-land. 2^0. I lctcroconi.\ I'dpcnsis in:n<ci'/ts incldiioxantJnis Cab. . Middle reaches of the Tan-ani, III. ; Pare, II. ; Donje Krok, XI. 245. Ploccns ocnlarius cnwctHs Ilartl. . Moslii, I \ '., XIII. 246. Ploccns 1'iibigiuosuS) Riipp. Xjiri, \ III.; Donie Mrok, IX.; Xgaptuk, X. ; Merker Lakes, XI. I found the weavers breeding February 2Sth. '1 he I'LJLJS, not seen before, are liidit blue, and measure 12 to 14 x ; to Tc; mm. 247. rii>i\'iis iiii^riccf1* i .ay. . Campa ya Simb.i, XII.; M'-shi. IV., XII. ; Kilimanjaro, VIII. 1 met with lar_;e colonies ot the-e \\ ea\ 'cr-birds near Mason- 14'oleni 'near Kibu'e/i . 1 hex had just built their \\onderful nests. The e^s were oi alight bluish (. olour, with reddish-brown speckles. The nests without a tunnelled entrance were woven tr m the broader kind ot sedi^e-s^rass ; the inside, or interior, was lined with the jjTecn leaves (now ot course' dried up)ot the tall acacia- trees only. 248. rhccnssptkci IIeu-1. . Mtrker Lake-, XI. 24^. rii>Ci-iis /tii'kst>/n\ Shell. Cam])! ya Simba ( I )ji['e Lake , X I I . 2^0. ritu \'/'s ('ii/P-1- Xjiri, V. ; Ddnje Krok, VIII., IX.; Mara-o Kan-a V. The nests are closed at one end during the breeding-season; at other times they are open 0:1 tup and bottom. 1 found small clusters of them huirj; on youn;j; acacia-trees. 267. Pscndonigrita cabaius: 'T'schr. Kchw. . Yumbe ya Mawc, IV '. ; Lafiiti Mountains, III. 2o\S. I'.strclda cstrclda minor Cab. . Xjiri, \T., \"I1I.; Canipi ya Simba, XII. 269. I'.strclda i'!iodop\'nincicct>s, Sharpe. I )onje l;.rok, IX.; X;j;ap- tuk, X, I. ; Moshi, IV., XII. 272. Ortygos[>i:-...i />o/}':::o//oclicrn aiiianr,>/'>tcry.\\ Sharpe. Moshi, XII. 277. Vidini ItvpocJicriiHii \ err. X^aptuk, X. 278. / 'idiin smbn, \. ; Kilimanjaro, \ III.; C;;m]>i \'a Simba, XII. Fring'illidae 270. /\fssi~r ^'<>f/^o/h'//\is C)ti--t. . Xjiri, \ I., \ III.; X^aptuk, X. Tln\ lai'^e sparrow is otten met with on the westerly ranges and plateaus ol Kilimanjaro. Its call resembles very much that oi the house-sparrow. 2Si>. / \i\.\r:- /•///<'<•///. 7//.S-, I-'schr. Kich\\. Kiiimanj m>, \ III. I h s bird, too, is ver\- like1 the hoiise->parrow. 2Si. ret ron in /;r;;;'/Vw , IIeu-1. . Donje l;.rok, VIII.; Ki'.i- man jari \ \ I I I. \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* 282. Auripasser cinini (Hartl.). Ngaptuk, X. 283. Poliospiza striolata fRiipp.). Kiraragua, XI. 284. Poiiospiza rciclienowi fSalvad.). North-west of Kilimanjaro, VII, VIII. 285. Serinus dorsostriatus, Rch\v. Donje Krok, XI. 286. Sen' nits icterus inadardsrji, Rchw. Masai-land. 287. Spimis citrinelloidcs hypostictus, Rchw. Masai-land. 288. Emberiza flaviventris, Steph. Xgaptuk, X. 289. Fringillaria taliapisi ( A. Sm.). Bonje Erok, XI. ; Vumbe ya Ma\ve, north-west of Kilimanjaro, VII., VIII. During the dry season the bird is often found near the rocky ravines of the tableland of the west Kilimanjaro, which are still then runninir with water. The bird is there very shv and cautious. Motacillidae 290. Anthus caffet\ Simd. Dtinje Erok, \rIII, IX. This pipit is for the first time proved to occur in East Africa. 291. AntJms rufulus cinnamomeuS) Riipp. Kiraragua, XI. 292. Antlins Jiichulsoiii, Sharpc. Kilimanjaro, \ II. 293. Budytes flavus I..). Kavirondo, XL; Mcru Mountain, X. ; Velt, XI. In November I found the yellow wagtail in large (locks near Kavirondo on the Victoria-X van/a ; in January between Lake Lake Victoria and the Kikuyu district. 294. Motacilla I'idna, Sund. Masai-land, III., VI. 295. Macronyx croceus (Vieill.j Masai-land. The wonderfully yellow-coloured belly of this bird can only be distinguished in the open air, \\hen the light is very favourable indeed. 296. Macronyx anrantignla, Rchw. Njiri, \L; Donje Erc)k, \'IIL; Xgaptuk, X. : Ngarc Nyuki, XL; \'umbe \'a Mawe, IV. 297. Tmetothylacus tcncllnx (Cab.;. Middle reaches of the Pangani, II.; Vumbe ya Mawc, IV. 776 -* Collection of Birds The beautiful male bird is black and yellow in colouring. At the mating time, in March, I saw it on the velt, near Pare ya Maboga, going through a most wonderful performance. It ascended high in the air, and after some extraordinary evolutions perched on a tree. I was reminded of a canary escaped from its cage. The green grass of the velt was then very high and I myself in a great hurry, and so I did not succeed in finding its nest. I suppose the birds only began building their nests about this time of the year. The nearest water-hole was to be found at a distance of one hour and a half away from the place the birds frequented. Alaudidae 298. M^irafra piccilostcrna 'Rchw. ) Yumbe ya Mawe, II. 299. Mirafra iutcrccdai.^ Kchw. X'jiri, \T. ; Xgaptuk, X. ; Donje Krok, YIII., IX. ; Matiom, XI. ; Kilimanjaro, YIII. 300. Mirajra cantillans Jerd.; Blyth. (ionga Plains, XII. }oi. Mirafra albicanda, Kchw. Donje. Krok, IX. }O2. Mirafra fisclicn ( Kchw. Kahe, IV. ; Minvani Kibwe/i. II. This lark produces a very peculiar rattling kind of n«>ise \\hich may be heard a long way off. I have heard it in January . Kcbruary, and March. Kvcn when 200 pacc^ from the camp you imagine when the bird commence^ the noise that it is quite near. This rattling is effected through a rapid movement of the \\ings; I ascertained this iny.-elf lor a fact. The bird only produce-^ this rattle when it ri-es a few feet from the ground. ThU rattling resembles the noise created by beating a thin b>iard with \\ hale- bone rods. The bird often perches on dead branches. >o v Miratra tijricaiiti it////, Hartl.,' Kiraragua Matiom. XI. ; Kilimanjaro, YIII. 304. Pyrrlinlanda L'itC'>tis 'St. ml. . Kilimanjaro, YIII. 30;. Pyrrliitlanda /<•//<•< /w/v//f Kschr. . Njiri, Y. ; Yumbc ya Ma\\e, I\. ; Kilimanjaro. YIII. 300. ( 'aliitidrclla dlhcusis ( Sharpe . Matiom. XI. \Yith Flashlight and Rifle -* Pycnonotidae 307. PhyllastrepJins ni^riccps (Shell.). West of Kilimanjaro, VII. 308. PliyllastrepJins striifacics (Rchw. Xeum.). Donjc Krok, IX. 309. Andropadus insulnris, Ilartl. Middle reaches of the Pangani, VII. 310. Pycnonotus tricolor (Ilartl.). Donje Erok, IX.; Matiom, X.; Moshi, IV., XL, XII. 311. Pycnonotus layardi (Gurn.) Kilimanjaro. This bulbtil is found everywhere, and in large flocks. Its well-known song of four notes is sometimes interrupted by a call- note at intervals. Zosteropidae 312. Zostcrops flavilateralis, Rchw. Middle reaches of the Pangani, III.; Donje Krok, VIII., IX.; Mem Mountains. Nectariniidae 313. AntJircptcs collaris //ypoc/y/us (Gard.). Moshi, IV. 314. Clialcoinitra obscnra ragazzii (Salvad.). Moshi, IV. 315. Chalconiitm kirki ''Shell.;. Moshi, IV., XII. 316. Cluilcomitra cequatorialis 'Rchw.). Xgaptuk, X.; Moshi, IV. 317. Ciiuiyt'is vcnnstns falkcnsteini, Kschr., Rchw. Xjiri, \., VII.; Xgaptuk, X, XI. 318. L'iniiyn's mariqucnsis inicmrliyncJins, Shell. Masai-land. 319. Xcctariuia kiliuicnsis, Shell. Moshi, I\"., XII. Paridae 320. Parisouia boehini, Rchw. Donjc Krok, VI 1 1. ; Xgaptuk, X. 321. Pants fringillinuSi I'schr., Rchw. Ngaptuk, X. One sjjecimen of this tit was secured by Dr. Fischer on the Meru Mountain. Three specimens were collected by me on the Xgaptuk Mountain, where small flocks of them had gathered during the dry season. 322. Atithoscopus miiscnlns < Ilartl.) Xjiri, \ I. -* Collection of Birds Timeliidae and Sylviidae ^2 v Cmtcropns jtiniinei kirki, Sharpc. Moshi, IV. 324. Cratct'opus hypolcncns, Cab. Donje Krok, IX.; Rombo, V. .A feu- of these babblers, sitting on the same branch, joined in the loud and peculiar screaming started suddenh' by one bird, which ends abruptly. This screaming is accompanied by tail- wa^LMiv_; and bowing. 325.° Rrythropygia plebeiat Rchw. The third species discovered by the author. It resembles /:. /*« '//«'. The upper side is more darkly coloured, and the back of the head and the back itself are brownish, nearly icd-brown. The bell\' of this bird is rather darker than that of /:'. picinc \ the crop and sides arc of a muddy brown. The black stripe on the tail is much smaller than that of the /:. yVv/«'', and only 10 mm. broad. Of the tail-feathers the middle one is uniformly brown. The- margins of the sides of the tail arc- dirty red-brown, but the outermost is of a whitish colour. Length, nearly 145 ; wind's, S; ; beak, I 5 ; le^'s, 24 to 24 mm. 326. fcrytliropYgia brnnticiccpS) Rchw. Kilimanjaro, VI I. 327. Tarsigcr oriciitalis^ I-'schr., Rchw. Kilimanjaro, \ II. ,^2S. Cicliladiisa gnttatii riittpcnnis Sharpe. I)i">nic I'.rok, XI. Th.e livt:I\* and melodious warbling of this speci\-s .- other l-'.a^t African bird-son^s. ]2( '. -//;;'! 'S(i, Riipp. Masu'-land. ^31. M('/<>('/\'/t/ti ii/cit/ti/is <>r/,-!/f.i/t;s Sharpc . 332. ( /s/tt'i'/ii Ciiinitina A. Sm. . l)onje Njiri, \'II I caught a spccinu-n with my hands. The s some kind of sjravs had loc'ked it> \\!HL;<. ^ 3.+ (. istii'<'/'('////////^'\.', Rehw. I his bird re.-cmbles the- ( . I'/iiiiiiii/ii, e.xc'c pt that the upper p tit With Flashlight and Rifle -* of the head is not reddish-brown but darkly lineated or striped like the back. The lines are more distinctly marked than those of the C. cliiniana. The edges of the tail-tip are pure white. The upper- parts arc faint gray-brownish, but distinct blackish-brown lines arc visible. Crop, belly, the underside of the wings, and lower part of the tail are of a faint dirty yellow ; the thighs arc rust- coloured. The tail-feathers are dun-coloured, with a black band before the whitish ends ; and the middle ones have a band of a rather faint black colour before the pale-brown end-edge. Length, nearly 125; wings, 63 to 66; tail, 57; beak, II to 12 ; legs, 22 mm. 334. Cisticola terrestris (A. Sm. :. Donje Krok, \ III.; Kili- manjaro, VII. 335. Cisticola //d nn, Fschr., Rchw. Donje Krok, IX. 336. Cisticola rufopileata, Rchw. Kilimanjaro, VII. 337. Bradypterns bradypterus (y\c\\\.\ Xjiri, VI. 338.* Calamorichla sdiillingsi^ckw. Njiri, YL; Masimani, IX. ; Korrongo, III. ; middle reaches of the Rufu River. This species, discovered by the author, is nearly related to C. plebeia of the Cameroons, but has shorter legs. Upper-part red-brown, redder on the rump, and upper tail-feathers ; a light stripe above the beak, throat and breast white ; crop, sides, and lower side of tail dun-coloured. The wing-coverts are pale brown, \virgs dark brown, red-brown outside, cream-coloured inside. Tail-feathers brownish, flanks reddish with the edges brownish- coloured. Length, about 1 70 to 190; wings, 77 to 85 ; be;ik, 15 to 16; legs, 21 to 22 mm. 339. Camaroptera griscoviridis (v. Miiller). Middle reaches of the 1'angani, III. ; Donje Krok, YI II.; Moshi, IY. 340. Syli'ictta jacksoni, Sharpe. Xgaptuk. X. ; Moshi, XII., I Y. 341. Af>alis golzi ( Fschr., Rchw.;. Xgaptuk, X. ; Moshi, XII. 342. Ort/totm/ins crytliroptcnis (Jard. . Masai-land. 343. Prinia inystacca, Riipp. Xgaptuk, X. ; Xjiri, Y. ; I )<">njc Krok, VIII. ; Moshi, XI. 344. I'hylloscopns tmcliilns (Lv. Moshi, XII. * (>r/t//. JA'A'/'., 1904. p. 95. 78o -* Collection of Birds This Kuropcan warbler was observed at different times near Kilimanjaro. 345. AcroccpJialus strepcnts fYicill.). Donje l;.rok, XI.; Xjiri swamps. The sedge-warbler is frequently to be found near the Xjiri swamps. 346. Silvia nisoria Bchst. . Xguaso Kbor, X. 347. Sylvia simplex, Lath. Xgaptuk, X. 348. Monticola sa.vatilis, L. .Masai-land. On the vclt near the Xjiri swamj)s very numerous, XI.; Kibosho Plains, XI. I met the European rock-thrush in December 1899, in that part of the velt which is near to the British frontier, in the direction of the Djo'ulu Mountains. They arc so numerous that I counted nearly seventy birds on one day ; but I only shot two specimens, as I had no fowling-piece with me, but only a rifle or heavy gun. It was not easy to secure this small bird without damaging it too much. In the vclt near Kibosho I shot another specimen in November. 349. Monticola cyanus I,. XgapUik, XI. 350. '/'itrthts dcckcii'i, Cab. Xgaptuk, 2, coo metres high, X. Fully Hedged young bird. Van der Decken's thrush \vas only found on the Xgaptuk Mountain and on the GelcT Volcano, 6,000 feet high. In December I killed a young fully Hedged bird near the Xgaptuk Mountain. 351. . S(i.\'fi'i>//j p/csi 'Itanka (I .epech.). Matiom Mountain, XI. I frequently found this inhabitant of the Asiatic steppe in the Masai velt, to which it migrates during the winter months. 352. Saxicola i^abcllina, kiipp. Masailand. 353. Saxic^la pilcata (im. . I'ppcr reaches of the Pangani, 1\"., Yumbe ya Mawe, I\ . ; Njiri, \ . ^54. f )'atinc<>la sit/iii', \'err. Kilimanjaro, IX. 355. l:rit liacns aji'icanns I-sclir., Rch\\. . l\ib\\e/i, II.; I )jipe Lake, XII.. \ei'\- numerous ; Xgaiv \\'ussi, on tin- Meru Mountain, IX. ; Ki/.iwani Kisuani on the Pare Mountain, XII. At the beginning of February I heard for the first lime ihr beautiful warbling oi this nightingale, two hour> before kibu'e/i; 1 \\ as moving from the Victoria Lake to\vard> Kilimanjaro. VOL. n. 7X1 With Flashlight and Rifle -* Thence to Massongoleni and a little further this bird \vas so frequently found that I could count twenty-five males to whose warbling I had listened. This warbling resembles that of a weak- voiced nightingale, or a nightingale with its notes not yet fully developed, but the tune seemed to me in a lower key and more that of the bastard-nightingale. In March 1905 I heard these nightingales on the Rufu River ; they were very numerous near the caravan-road between the Jipe Lake and the camp at Kiziwani (Kisuani). In this district, which would suit the European night- ingale well, I heard a great number of singing male birds. I also found the same species near the Meru Mountain and Mto Xyuki. fi illicit bv Hindi, ll'alsiin i5~- l*tiuy, Lit., l.undnn and Ayltsuury. 782 University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return thjs material to the library from which it was borrowed. A 001 116997 6