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COPYRIGHTED BY
LYDIA M. WRIGHT,
Nrw ORLEANS, La.
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SUNSHINE IS LIKE MEDICINE
FOR CHICKENS.

SUNSHINE IS MEDICINE TO ALL LIFE, WHETHER
(. IT IS VEGETABLE OR ANIMAL. WE ALL NOTICE
HENS AND STOCK BASKING IN THE SUN ON THE
| WARM SIDES OF BUILDINGS. IT SEEMS TO FEEL
(= GOOD TO THEM TO HAVE THE SUN “SOAK” IN.
| I HAVE, ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS, SEEN LITTLE
| CHICKS LEAVE A HEN OR COMFORTABLE BROOD-
ERS TO BASK IN THE SUN.

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THE PREFACE.

IG profit and big losses are possible in the poultry
business, and depend wholly upon the judgment of
the breeder.

Contrary to the long-surviving sentiment, chickens do
not take care of themselves and thrive. They are helpless in
many ways and the breeder who would be successful must
exercise constant vigilance and care.

This volume is classified, divided and subdivided into
departments in order to make it easy for the breeder to find
instantly the particular paragraph covering his case and con-
taining the information he needs.

Every sentence, every remedy, every hint in this book is
based on hard experience and successful application in
Wright’s Sanitary Poultry Yards at New Orleans, La., and-
may be safely followed.

A word on yards in closing. The successful breeder does
not need many acres. What is needed most is care and sani-
tation. The Wright Sanitary Poultry Yards at New Orleans
are located in the back-end of an ordinary-sized city lot, and,
through the courtesy of the most famous chicken fanciers of
America who have visited them, have been styled “The Show
Place of Poultrydom.”

In any event, this back-yard poultry “farm” has been a
success, and has demonstrated beyond peradventure of a doubt
that chickens can be profitably produced on the back lot.

It is with a view particularly to helping those who have
‘established, or desire to establish, such a’ yard in a restricted
area that this volume is issued.

Sincerely,
LYDIA M. WRIGHT.
NEW ORLEANS, June, 1911.

FOREWORD.

HIS volume is intended not for the breeder who is
himself an expert of long experience in the poultry
business, but for the breeder in need of the advice of

those who have learned in the hard school of experience the
way to success and the pitfalls which beset the path of the
novice in the chicken business.

It is, intended that this work shall be so plain that he
who runs may read and comprehend, and gain profit thereby.

Long has the idea prevailed that a “‘farm” of broad acres
is necessary to the success of the chicken business, and that
the fowls, left to roam the wilderness of weeds, will either
thrive or die, and no effort on the part of the breeder may
change this.

Modern success and ee give the lie to this idea,
however, and to-day the big profits are made, not on the big
farms, but in restricted yards, where the fowls are under
the direct care and guardianship of the breeder at all times.

As “Jud” says in Opie’s Read’s “The Jucklins”: Chick-
ens is queer critters, and adept sense, sunshine and sani-
tation are the requisite to success.’

If this work proves of help and benefit to those who love
chickens and are breeding them; if it helps to success the
novice just beginning in the Patidaa’ and if its plain, homely

facts make simpler and easier the way of the back-lot breeder,

then I am tenfold repaid for the time and labor spent in
compiling this volume.

its THE AUTHOR.
New OrtEANS, June, 1911.

THE SONG OF SUCCESS.

If you’re going into business and expect to keep ahead,
You’ve got to get up early in the morning.

If you start to keeping chickens to earn your daily bread,
You’ve got to get up early in the morning.

If you’ve made a sad, sad failure at every other game,
And hate to get up early in the morning,

Stay out of the poultry business, and then in heaven’s name,
Why don’t you try to get up early in the morning?

But you’ll miss the bright pure sunshine, and the clucking of
the hen
As she greets your call so early in the morning,
And you’ll miss the golden dollars that come to other men
Who like to get up early in the morning.

Don’t think the chicken business is a sinecure at all,
Where you don’t need to get up early in the morning.
For if you do you’re surely bound to end against the wall,

Unless you get up early in the morning,

There’s work and plenty of it if you treat your chicken’s right,
And you have to get up early in the morning.

If you want to pile up money and sleep well through the night,
You’ve got to get up early in the morning.

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SUMMER.

-If your chicks look weak and sleepy,
And they do not care to eat,

Look for lice, and if not any,
Do not worry—its the heat.

If the old hens look tired
And sit only in one spot,

You should never get discouraged—
Its the weather, its so hot.

If the hens should stop laying
In back yards and on farms,

Its because they are mol*ing,
And remember its so warm.

Try and make it cool and pleasant
For your hens this time a year,

In the winter they will pay you
For your trouble—never fear.

Eggs a plenty they will give you,
And their cackling song will sing,
Lots of money in your pocket
The industrious hen will bring.

THE RED CHICKEN.

Them old Red chickens

Are a mghty funny fiock,
Said the old Brahma hen

To the old Pea Cock.

The old Brahma hen,

With the feathers between her toes,
Almost kills herself laughing,

When the Red rooster crows.

Them old Red chickens
Live a mighty funny life,
Said the old Brahma rooster,
To the Pea Cock’s wife.

The old Red rooster

Thinks he is the only chicken,
He is either in a fight,
- Or he is always a-kicking. °

a

LITTLE RED HEN.

The red hen is a beauty
In color, shape and size,

And talk about your laying eggs—
She is a grand surprise.

The red hen is a beauty:
She is the chicken queen,

And if it’s fertile eggs you want,
Her’s are the best you ever seen.

The red hen will make you money,
She lays the whole year round;
As a paying propos ‘ion,
She is the best that ean be found.

The red hen she is docile,
And will thrive anywhere;
Put. her in any old yard,
She will be contented there.

‘The red hen is strong and healthy—

She is very seldom sick,
And under all conditions,
She is a regular brick.

The rooster, strong and gallant,

Is proud as he ean be,
The way he acts towards h's hens
Is something good to see.

He is the chicken ‘‘Red Man’’—
Strong, vigorous and well;

You can almost hear him crowing
As he comes from the shell.

SYMPTOMS.

If your chicks breathe with difficulty,
Hold their heads down and droop,

Offensive discharge from nostrils,
Be careful—it’s the Roup.

When the chicks have soreness of throat,
Don’t stand around and tamper.
If they swallow with difficulty,
Remember, it is Canker.

Crop hard, swollen and compact

And cannot eat with ease:

Your chickens have indigestion,
Which causes crop disease.

Thread-like worms attached to w‘ndpipe
The life of your chicken saps,

And prevents the chicks from breathing;
This disease is called the Gaps.

If dry scale forms upon the tongue,
From your memory don’t let this slip,

Due to breathing through the mouth:
Your chicken has the Pip.

POULTRY INTEREST IN THE SOUTH.

There has been an astonishing awakening throughout the South
in regard to poultry raising and culture. The interest shown by
the people at the recent Southern shows eloquently testifies that

the awakening is day by day growing broad and more pronounced.

People who never before have taken an interest in the raising
of poultry are now indulging in this pleasant and profitable pas-
time. With the advantages afforded us by our pleasant climate
poultry raising is comparatively easy.

GREAT ADVANTAGES.

In the poultry culture we have great advantages over our North-
ern brother. The difference in climatic conditions existing in the
Northern States and Southern States are all in favor of the South.

Our winters are mild and enjoyable, and every day is an outing .

for Biddy, all this making for her general health. These conditions,
together with the remarkable high prices ruling the market at all
times, should encourage everyone who has the space, large or small,
to raise a few good fowls. One of the many reasons that the
poultry business has been looked on with so much favor in America
is because the people of the United States use more meat than the
people of any other nation. England ranks second and other coun-
tries rank far below. :

GOOD DEMAND.

The demand for good healthy poultry and fresh eggs is greater
to-day than it has ever been before, and the consumers are willing
to pay a high price rather than use a product that has been kept
in cold storage until it is no longer fresh. It is unquestionably

convenient to have a supply of fresh eggs on hand all the time, and .

if you have never taken notice of the different flavors between a
fowl that has been raised under sanitary conditions and given
no: hing but fresh water and pure food to eat and drink, than from
one raised in dirty, filthy quarters, or has been kept in a foul coop
for goodness knows how long, then it is time you do so at once,
and you will never have anyth‘ng on your table but poultry that
has been raised under proper conditions.

12 THE WRIGHT WAY; oR, PRacTIcAL Hints

THE LOVE OF LIVE THINGS.

The love of live things is one of the strongest elements in the
make-up of mankind. Where is the person who, at some time in
his life, has not had or wished for a pet—be it chickens, duck,
kittens or dogs? To become qualified as a poultry raiser one must
become in love with the work and delightful pastime. Therefore,
I wish to impress upon the mind of the beginner that love and care
means more than purity of breed and superiority of kind. If one
‘ notices the habits of chickens they will soon perceive that kind-
ness and gentleness will teach them that you are their friends. At
a call from you they will come running and will allow you to pick
them up and caress them. The satisfaction derived from this
pleasure will be hard to explain. But I know that it is pleasing
to love and be loved by any inoffensive, innocent live thing.

THINK AND STUDY.

Poultry keeping is a business that will cause the brightest to
keep his mental faculties clear. It requires continuous study for
the best.resul’s. It develops forethought and system. It pays ta
balance every detail—every move in the poultry business. There
is a good deal more to poultry keeping than may appear on the
surface. Remember that experience is hands and feet to any enter-
prise, and that right experience comes from study. Therefore,
study and fully determine to your own satisfaction that you have
the grit, stamina and determination in your make-up to win. Every
person should be a good judge of his own character as well as of
good poultry, and be able to know where the weak places are. You
will always need a fair amount of originality and ingenuity, but
you can get along without this much better than without character.

After the matter of character has been disposed of, take a look
into your pocket-book. If you are not sure that you have enough
money to carry you through, wait awhile until you know that what
is invested will not be a dead loss and that you will have some
reserve for severe, stormy weather that may cross your path. In
taking up poultry raising you will always find need for just that
much more to help you along until you are able to stand alone.
There are big poultrymen who will tell you that all you need is a .
few of their pure-bred hens and a house to keep them in; but that
is not true. They well know that it took considerably more than
that to get them on easy street. Of course, it is possible to build
up a very large and profitable plant on a small amount of money,
but there must be money coming in steadily from some sources to
do the building until the hens pay for their keeping.

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For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 15

BEGINNERS EXPECT TOO MUCH.

If you have never paid particular attention to poultry, but are
beginning to be interested in the subject, I believe this little beok.
will do you good. The trouble with a good many beginners is that
they expect too much.

I was.a beginner once myself and I remember when I was in
exactly that position.

I thought all I had to do was to get a few chickens, take my
ease until dollars began to roll in by the bushel; but practical ex-
perience has taught me that you must work hand in hand with the
poultry business, the same as you would with any other business,
for it takes common sense and practical methods and not day-
dreaming of some glorious future to land success.

~

UPS AND DOWNS IN THE POULTRY BUSINESS

There is no line of business one can engage in that will not
present more or less trouble and losses to the owners, and of all
the different kinds of business the poultry business is subjeet to
the most of them.

Hundreds of little things can and will happen to discourgae and
cause a great many who undertake the business, thinking that it
is an easy sailing, to give it up in disgust, and sometimes wish
they could never see another chicken.

These troubles will happen in any business in the course of time.
It is these ups and downs that teach us object lessons that some-
times cost us very dear that eventually brings success to many
people.

Those who are determined in their efforts will, as a rule, never
quit until they have succeeded, and by careful studying the things
that bring about failure stopping the leaks and remedying the
troubles, usually perfection can be obtained, especially by those
who has the patience and make a success in life of most of their
undertakings.

If one will stop for a few moments and think that others have
succeeded in the same line that they are working on, they can
surely do so, too, if they will only persist and correct the mistakes
and troubles as soon as they have run up against them. Hundreds
of people have invested five or ten dollars in one or two settings of
eggs and expect to get rich from this small investment. This, of
course, is out of the question.

16 THE WRIGHT Way; or, PRAactTicAL HINTs

Many who have had one or two settings of eggs under hens have
been sadly disappointed in getting only a few chickens, and prob-
ably more disappointed find some day all of their chickens drowned

in a rain, or have them get hold of some poisonous matters that

will kill them, or have a cat or rat devour the entire lot.

These things are happening every day, and, while it is discour-
aging to have these things to contend with, they are sure to come
to you if you stay in the poultry business, and many other torubles,
and the only thing you can do is to never give up, but start again
with renewed energy and determination to succeed.

If it were possible to hatch fifty per cent. of the eggs set and
raise fifty per cent. of the chickens hatched, on an average over the
United States, the interest in this business would never be where
it is to-day.

It matters not how hard you try, we are sure to have many losses

and many discouragements; but even with these the poultry busi-

ness has grown and is still growing, and I do not believe it will
ever be overdone as long as the population of the United States is
increasing as rapidly as it has been for the past few years.

Many who are now undertaking this venture will not succeed
and will never try it again. Of course, a great many who have

undertaken it will succeed, as they have their capital invested and —

have learned a great deal by experience that will enable them to
overcome in the future the many losses they have had in the past.

Those who stay with it and study it thoroughly cannot help but
succeed and make money, as it is impossible with all the efforts
made and all of the latest methods now connected with the poultry
business, to produce an over supply for the mass of the people.

The diversity of our farming interests in this country certainly
does not mean putting this country on a safe commercial basis,
and nothing will bring independence quicker or better than for a
man to diversify his sources of income and not be absolutely
dependent upon any one thing. :

Discouragements above mentioned connected with the poultry
business apply to the farmer, they apply to the merchant, the
manufacturer, and in all other lines of business.

It would never do for anything to be easy sailing, because if it —

was we would soon not appreciate the many good things that we
do have come to us.

The poultry business has many bright sides as well as dark ones,
and I do not believe that you can beat the poultry business if it ig
managed right.

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For PouutTry PROFITS IN THE BAcK YARD. 17

DIFFERENT BRANCHES.

There is nothing so interesting as the breeding industry in its
different branches. There are so many features to cover and so
many points to perfect that it keeps one always on the go.

First, there is the fancy breed, the production of which necessi-
tates constant breeding up to perfect the color scheme.

Second, there is the egg producing branch, in which the strain
more than the breed is the chief consideration.

Another profitable branch of the business is the raising of
broilers and fryers.

These three combine the entire scale of the business, and each
branch is practically a business within itself and has entirely
different requirements in the way of steady preparation and
attention. eae

While all chickens require largely the same care to a certain
_degree, here the special consideration in the specialized lines,
breeds and strains commence. |

FANCY BREEDING.

The fancier who is seeking to perfect a type spends no end of
time in breeding up the birds to perfect a color scheme.

His aim is to produce birds that will conform in every particular
to the American standard of perfection, and he is ever seeking to
reach this goal. 3

This method of breeding is not only a source of interest and
pleasure but of profit as well.

EGG PRODUCTION.

In the work of egg production it is not so much the breed as
the strain which must be given the chief consideration.

The Mediterranean breeds are selected most frequently for this
purpose on many of the large egg farms.

The reason for this is because they are non-setters; but, as here-
tofore stated, it is not so much the breed as the strain, and if one
will select any one of the American breeds and secure those which
come from a good laying strain, bred from the best layers for
three or four generations, they will produce a strain of fowls like
themselvey. Usually a good laying hen which has not the breed
back of here, is not at all likely to produce her equal.

It is a matter of surprise to the uninitiated the profits to be
derived from this branch of the business.

18 THe Wright Way; or, PracticaL HINnTs

BROILERS AND FRYERS.

The raising of broilers and fryers is another profitable branch
of the business.

In selecting breeds for preilérs the main thing should be sturdi-
ness, early maturity and well-developed frames.

Any of the American breeds have superior qualities and make
good market birds. The chicks develop in all directions rapidly,
and within eight weeks will weigh from one and one-half to two
pounds without difficulty, the flesh being most delicious at this
stage.

By intelligent management broilers and fryers sent to market
early in the spring will pay handsome profits.

To anyone contemplating entering the business, I would say this:

First, investigate the profits of each particular branch of the
business.

Next, investigate the cost to start.

‘Third, consider your feelings in the matter; your resources, the
time you have to devote to the work, and after all these things

have been well weighed, take up any one of the three branches
mentioned and devote yourself exclusively to the one until you
have gained sufficient experience to branch out.

DIFFERENT CLASSES.

All animals of excellence are pedigreed according to an accepted
standard. The guide of authority for judging fowls in this country
is known as the American Standard of Perfection.

In breeding for exhibition purposes this book must be consulted,
as it defines every detail as to the requisite qualifications of breeds
and varieties.

The different classes of poultry consist of America, Asiatic,
Mediterranean, English, Polish, Hamburgs, French, Orientals,
Games and Bantams.

Each class contains its different breeds, and each and every
breed has its different varieties, some having as many as eight
varieties. The breeds and varieties are so numerous that it gives
the beginner a large field to select from.

BEST BREED.

The best breed is the one we like best. Having selected the
variety, purchase six or eight hens and a male bird from a reliable
breeder, and with a hen house built as nearly as possible as it is

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For PouLtrRy PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 21

described in this book, you are ready to begin raising poultry. The
above number of fowls will give better results than a larger num-
ber. It will insure you a large percentage of fertile eggs and
prevent crowding, which causes disease.

MATING.

Mating birds for best results is a very important matter. To
breed a fowl of any kind requires thought, skill, observation and
study. The parent stock should be sound in constitution, free from
any complaint and having not been through any very severe or
dangerous illness; consider the result if raised without change of
blood for a long time and no attention to line breeding. In such
cases you may expect progeny, somewhat weak, difficult to bring
up and many succumbing under hard times in chickenhood.

Incestuous mating always lowers constitution. Never breed from
brother and sister. Pullets with their sires or grandsires, cockrels
with their dames or granddames, breed strong, healthy chickens.
The female generally gives size and the male color and head points.

Breed from as perfect birds as possible; perfect from a breeding
standpoint, though they may not be show birds.

In selecting the male birds great care must be taken, as he is
half your pen. If the cock or cockrel is not right, all is wrong.

The quality of your hens are of no less importance than those of
the cock; good judgment should be used, for they have their little
whims ad fancies, likes and dislikes, as capricious and unaccount-
able as those of other females.

Some are gentle in their manner and disposition, others are
sanguinary, some are lazy, others energetic almost to insanity.

The success in the matter in the selection of hens for mating and
breeding purposes requires study, care and a considerable degree
of patience.

LOCATION.

The first thing which naturally confronts the man or woman who
contemplates starting in the poultry business, either for profit or
pleasure, or both, is ‘‘Location.’’ To the farmer or the breeder
in the rural districts this is no object, of course, since he has
plenty of ground and his real problem is to find his chickens and
their nest once he has turned them loose in the weeds and woods.
This chapter, however, I shall devote to the man or woman who
lives in the city, who may have a little, weed-grown back yard,
available, apparently, for no good use and a sort of eyesore, as it

22 THE WRIGHT Way; oR, PRactTicaL HINTS

were, to the good housewife. Now, it is on just such a backyard
as this that I established what, as I before said, has been graciously
styled by some of the biggest fanciers of the country, ‘<The Show
Place of Poultrydom.’’

PREPARATION OF GROUND.

The first thing necessary in this transformation of a weed-grown
back lot into a poultry yard, is, of course, the proper filling of the
ground, gravelling and preparation of such nature to make it clean,
wholesome and dry at all times. If your back lot is high and dry,
and naturally well drained, of course it will need no filling. A
good, compact loam is the healthiest and best base earth for a
small yard, but almost any sort of soil will do. If, on the contrary,
however, your lot is swampy and wet, and not well drained, it will
be necessary for you to fill and grade to drainage levels, whica can
be done by any man who understands the use of a line strip of

board, say, 10 feet in length, and a spirit level, which may be

bought or borrowed almost anwhere. The proper fall to drain the
chicken yard should in every case be one-quarter of an inch to the
foot, or three inches to twelve feet, 15 inches to 60 feet, and so on.

This means to say that the fall or drainage level should be

established on the base earth or bed soil, as the gravel will seep
the water and drain itself naturally, so no level in the gravel has
to be established for this purpose.

The system I use is the drainage- -tile plain—draining from back
to front and emptying iftto the main street sewer.

So, then, first of all, fill the yard with whatever material is at
hand which will form a solid soil over which the water will run.

So shape the yard that the drainage will be all to the middle,
looking the low way of the yard. In other words, the graded yard
before the gravel is placed, should represent the comb roof of a
house turned upside down, the fall from each side of the yard being
toward the middle, the degree being one-quarter of an inch to the
foot.

Then, which ever way the sewer connects or outlet lays, the end-
to-end yard fall should be a quarter of an inch to the foot, as has
been said.

In the middle, or lowest line, the drain title line is placed, this
carrying the water off from the pens, which should be placed on
each side of the yard, with a walkway or promenade between.

This gives the housing the effect of residence, if you please,
the poultry runways in front of the housing being the sidewalks
and the promenade between the street.

Ee

For Poutrry PRorits IN THE Back YarpD, 23

The housing and pens are set before the gravel surface is
placed. After the housing is built, the gravel is then spread
uniformly over the top to a depth of from four to six inches.

The gravel should be of a fineness sufficient to allow it to pass
easily through a half-inch screen, this being known as torpedo
gravel, taking its names because it resembles in size the paper
‘torpedoes used by boys around Christmas time.

This does not hurt the chickens’ feet, makes a good scratching
ground, and after the heaviest rain will have drained in an hour.
This gravel should cover the surface of the whole yard up to the
entrance of the house, but the house floors should be of earth.

The cost will depend, of course, upon the locality of the yard,
the original condition, the filling necessary, the accessibility to
_ gravel supply and the amount of work one cares to do one’s self.

The cost of filling can be accurately ascertained by the advice
of an excavating contractor, who should charge nothing for it.
Gravel in most cases costs about $3 per load, and one load of
gravel is sufficient to surface one pen.

Now that the ground is prepared, the housing is the next
problem.

HOUSING.
MATERIAL,

The material used in the construction of the chicken houses
should be ‘‘C’’ grade pine. Two-by-fours are used for the sills
and foundations, set on corner foundations of two bricks well
bedded.

The walls are of one-by-twelve dress boards. The roof is con-
structed of galvanized iron. The strips are one-by-six.

This is the material I used and my houses cost me each $10. The
house may be constructed much cheaper than this, however, by
using cheaper materials and by not putting on an expensive paint,
and so on. In fact, unless the breeder wants to spend the money,
I should advise a cheaper construction in the house, only insisting
that they be made perfectly comfortable, have good ventilation,
be clean, sanitary and water-proof, leaving to the builder the
choice of such materials ay may be found suitable for the purpose
and may at the same time be cheaper and most easily secured.

DIMENSIONS OF HOUSES.

The floor space over all should be 60 square feet, divided 10 feet
wide by 6 feet deep. The height should be 7 feet in front by 8
in the back. This makes possible a drain gutter in front of the
roof, carrying the water into the yard instead of your neighbor’s.

24 THe WricHot Way; or, PRAcTICAL HINTS

The first process is to set the corner brick foundations. Upon
these are laid four-by-fours, the ends being mortised together, this
forming the foundation.

At each corner is set an upright post, these being two-by-fours;.
they are spiked well to the foundation four-by-fours.

Between corners are set a two-by-four on the the side, another
in the back and another in the front.

These are cut to proper height to support the window sills, for
which purpose they are put in.

Each side of the window supporting two-by-fours should set
exactly between the corner uprights, an equal distance from each.

In the back the two-by-fours should be placed the same way.
In front the door is placed at one corner and the two-by-four to
support the window is placed half-way between the side of the
door and the corner upright set next to it.

On top of the upright the two-by-fours are placed exactly as
the four-by-fours are laid, the ends being spiked into the uprights
and the horizontal top frame being mortised.

The windows should be two-by-two feet, with four light glasses.
The windows should be placed as high ag possible in the house,
thus throwing the chickens below the draft when they are sitting
on the roost.

All windows should be provided with swinging sashes, which may
be closed in winter time, and these should be fit closely enough in
the frame to prevent cold drafts from finding their way into the
house when the windows are closed. Just under the window
should be placed a trap-door to allow the chickens to pass from
the house to the run without using the large door. This prevents
them from scartching the straw from the house into the runs.
This trap-door should be 10 inches wide by 14 inches high and
should be raised about 6 inches from the ground.

On top of the upper frame are laid one-by-six strips at a dis-
tance of eight inches apart. Upon these are tacked the roofing.
The roof may be of galvanized iron, tar, or gravel paper, or; in
fact, any material that is water-proof and durable.

ROOSTS.

The roosts are built as follows: For accommodation of from
seven to nine chickens:

First is built the frame, with four legs, one at each corner, The
legs are two-by-two material and are twelve inches high. Set on
these legs is a strip frame one-by-two, mortised at corners. On
this frame which should stand just like a table twelve inches
high, three feet long by fourteen inches wide.

“T~tut Be Back in a Minute, But I’vE Gor to Go Now.”
SINGLE-Coms RuHope IsLanp Rep Cocx Birp.

For Poutrry Prorits IN THE Back YARD. ° 27

On top of this frame should be set the nest boxes. These are
built as follows: The box is made three feet long and twelve
inches high by fourteen inches wide. Three partitions are placed
so as to equally divide this space. Three draws are then con-
. structed which slides in and out of these partitions. The draws
should be six inches deep on all sides; in the back the draw should
have a semi-circle cut out that is large enough to allow the hen
to get in and out. The entire back of the nest box is open, and
it is there that the hens get in to lay.

-A board eight inches wide should be hinged at the top of the
nest frame. This can be dropped down, making the nest dark.

The top of the nest frame is formed by the dropping board.
This board should be 4 feet long, 3 feet wide, and should be
hinged to the wall, so that it may be raised against the back wall
and hooked.

Six inches above this dropping board should be hinged the roost,
these also being attached to the back wall of the house.

The roosts are simply two strips of two-by-two, rounded and
dressed smooth, so as not to hurt the chicken’s feet, with two
strips of one-by-two at each end holding them.

Thus, when the roost frame is complete, you have two strips of
one-by-two 2 feet long hinged to the back wall with two legs 6
inches high attached to the front end. This dropping in to sup-
port when the strips are brought down forward from the wall.
Fastened always to these two strips are the roosting bars, twelve
inches apart, the rear bar being 12 inches from the wall of the
building. This then allows the roosting frame to be hooked up
against the wall, and the dropping board when raised lays right
up over against the wall, this exposing the draw nests, which
may be pulled from the nest box, leaving the frame with its three
partitions closed at both ends open, in front and back. The front
of the nest drawer forming the front of the frame and the back
of the drawer being so hollowed down as to allow the ingress and
egress of the hen.

This sort of roost is the best known for modern chicken breeders.

PENS AND RUNWAYS.

The pens or runaways in front of the house which we have now
completed, should be 19 feet deep by 10 feet wide. This makes
the space required for the house and run 25 feet by 10. This
space is ample to accommodate six or eight hens and one male
bird. | |

On each side, 9 feet from the corner of the house, should be set
the first post. Ten feet in front of this should be set the next

RES ACO tee Pee 7

28 Tue Wriaut Way; or, Practica, Hints

post, while the gate posts may be placed any place in front that
may be desired,

A top board 1 by 6, and a base board 1 by 12, extends on both
sides and in front, forming a frame to which chicken netting is
tacked, thus making the pen and runway. In localities where ~
hawks are bad chicken netting may be placed over the top, as
well as the sides, thus protecting the birds from predatory animals
or fowls.

AWNINGS FOR SHADING FOWLS.

In my own case I have no shrubbery or trees, so in order to
have the proper shade I have constructed wooden awnings or sheds.
These awnings are the entire length of the house and 6 feet wide,
supporting them by corner posts of two-by-fours and -giving them
sufficient pitch to drain the water from the front edge back to
the roof, where the drain gutter is placed. This gives a ‘‘V’’
Shape to the roof and shed awning. This may be done if the
breeder so desires. The shed ean be constructed of such material
as will shed rain, to cost, of course, upon material used and
beauty of construction.

TABLE OF COST.

Below I give a table of cost for constructing a chicken yard,
this being on a basis of one pen which will successfully accom-
modate a flock of six or eight hens and a male bird.

While, of course, this cost must be greater or less, as goverend
by circumstances the class of material used, the tastes of the man
or woman going into the business, the accessibility of supplies, and
the amount of work one hires done, together with the cost of
labor in your particular section. This is based on the average and
may be safely computed and multiplied, according to the number
of pens one desires to put in:

Wiking ereurdah'c. iat woul tad Adt at dao $2.00
BOTA GRID y':5 sn sia hinin Pale ares. ye bck 1.00
RRO RTI ik i ceuieieas oan urns Sphesieeats wis ke 3.00
FLOUNO. 2S TOs ete s Soe eee en ee 10.00
SOC ORE RNR oa as s\n, pn eg! 4 See bt 3.00
SORE “EROUITN rn a. sins ne gh alk 2 ae 0 a 3.00

IT dis Osta on td's <5 0 A dtd. nsn-0. acl eee
Od MERGE. SL GOBETOO | ..<o<cae & inca cle 3.00

Grand total cost of one pen..........$25.00

a

SINGLE-Comsp Ruope ISLAND Rep HEN.
OneE oF My BEAUTIES.

For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 31

BROODING CONSTRUCTIONS.

The lumber used is ‘‘C’’ grade ceiling,

The brooders are constructed indoors and are facing the east; in
this position they get the morning sun, which is beneficial to the
health of the tiny chicken.

The brooders are three feet wide by six feet long, partitioned
off into two compartments, size three feet by three feet. The back
of each compartment hag a door two by two feet square; the front
has a facing of mosquito wire, which is protected by a sash three
feet wide by four feet long. Each sash has six.glasses and can
be raised and lowered to give the proper ventilation. An opening
four inches square is cut in the partition for the chicks to pass
from one end of the brooder to the other. One side is for the
hoover and the other for the play ground.

HOOVER.

The hoover is a circuit board two feet in diameter, covered
with strips of cloth to which is sewed feathers. The strips are
tacked one inch apart, the feathers hanging downward, one inch
from the floor.

The hoover proper is eight inches high. Extending downward
from the top of the brooder ig a radiator made of galvanized iron;
a safety iron case is attached under the radiator, in which is placed
_ a No. 2 incubator lamp, which, when in operation, throws the heat
up to the radiator, thus distributing the heat equally to produce
the temperature desired.

The inside of the brooder is whitewashed, which is very neces-
sary and beneficial for the health of the little chicks.

FERTILE EGGS.

In order that you may have the very best and most fertile eggs
and take care of them properly, you must first see to it that your
parent fowls have not been inbred to the extent of injuring their
vigor.

You must have good, lively male birds. | |
Discard all the ill-shaped and mottled eggs, and do not use the
first dozen eggs from a pullet unless she be fully developed, or

-about 11 or 12 months old.

32 THe Wright Way; or, PracticaL Hints

CARE OF EGGS.

In gathering your eggs for hatching, handle them earefully,
placing in baskets or egg cabinets, keeping them preferably in a
temperature between 50 and 60 degrees, and away from the flies.

To prevent thin-shelled eggs you must feed or keep before your
fowls lime in some form, which is the food that forms the shell.

Oyster shelly is the best-known form of lime feed we have now.

Poultry that is penned up in small runs must be given, as near
as possible, everything that free range provides—such as meat, to
take the place of bugs, green stuff of some kind (anything they eat
with a relish is good).

Without these things you cannot make a success.

The eggs from a pen of fowls not having the right attention
may hatch, and hatch well, but the little fellows will be small
and weak; will not start the quick growth so necessary to a good
bird, and they will die before they get 10 days old.

When they are hard to put your hand on at 24 hours old, and
can jump over your hand, they are all right and will weigh one
to one and a quarter pounds at seven weeks old.

RUNNING AN INCUBATOR.

These remarks as to running an incubator are intended for
those just starting in the poultry business and not for the old-
timer.

The directions given are in a general way the main points. I
will not argue the question whether the incubator or the hen
hatches the most eggs.

Incubators are not perfect, nor have they the hatching powers
of the hen in which all the natural instincts are developed, but
the incubator should have its just dues. It ig a necessity.

Most of the poultrymen of the country who are in it for what
they can make, use the incubator, for only by artificial process
can poultry be grown profitably in large numbers, for early
broilers for home use or for the market.

For early roasters ahead of the usual season, or if you want
early chicks, an incubator is a necessity.

There are other advantages possessed by the incubator. Chicks
hatched by artificial incubation -will be free from lice, the in-
cubator will not step on the little chicky and crush the life out
of them.

The most important thing to do is to buy a first-class machine.
If it is a good make one set of rules will supply for all.

Your machine should be operated in a place where you can at

oe ae” aly

For Povuuttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 33

all times maintain an even temperature, and where it would never
come in contact with a draught. The room should be dry, the
machine should be level and steady.

THE LAMP.

The lamp should be kept in order and made-to burn with a ciean
white flame, so that it does not smoke and so it can be turned
either up or down without smoking. ~ This is essential. The blaze
must be good from the start, and. the regulator balanced to a
good flame. This must be done before the eggs go in the incubator.
It is much easier and safer to experiment with the lamp and
Tegulator when the egg chamber is empty than when the machine
is full of eggs.

A few hours spent in adjusting will be time saved later on.

The incubator should be run with the tray empty for at least
24 hours before the eggs are placed in the egg chamber, giving
it a chance to get warm throughout, and also giving the operator
time to practice in adjusting the regulator, so that it will keep
the heat at the proper temperature, which should be exactly 102
degrees before the hatch is started.

HOW TO PLACE EGGS.

At the end of 24 hours again fill the lamp, trim the wick and
with the machine running at a regular heat of 102 degrees, the
egg tray loaded according to directions should be placed in the
egg chamber. The eggs should be clean and fresh. Never pile
them one on the other when filling the tray; put in eggs enough .
to fill completely every space with every egg lying upon its side.
Do not stand them on the end.

The filled tray now being placed in the incubator close the door
without slamming it. .

The machine can now be left alone. The temperature will fall,
but do not change the adjustment, as it takes some time for the
eggs to attain the right temperature.

At the end of the first 24 hours after the hatch has been
week; the temperature should be maintained as steady as possible.
week; the eggs should be maintained as steady as possible.

During the first week the eggs will require careful attention.
After the second day I find that the best results are obtained
by turning the eggs twice a day and cooling them once a day up
to the time they begin to pip. For the first week the eggs should
be cooled ten minutes,

_ After turning the eggs in the momen turn the tray from side
to side.
After turning at night turn the tray from end to end. In turn-

34 Tue WricHot Way; or, PracticaL Hints

ing the eggs it is not necessary to see that each egg is turned
exactly half over; simply change the position.

At five days es embryo commences to take life, which on the
seventh day can be plainly seen.

All first-class machines send egg testers with machine. Every
ege should be carefully tested. .

BARREN EGGS.

A perfectly clear egg is not fertile, a cloudy egg is imperfect.
These should be removed. The clear eggs can be used for good
and the cloudy ones should be dstroyed.

At the beginning of the second week the temperature should be

raised to 105 degrees and kept at that point until the nine-
teenth day. .
TURNING THE EGGS.

The eggs should be turned twice daily as during the first week,
and when turning the last time at night they should be cooled
from 20 to 30. minutes, according to the temperature of the room;
the rules as above are used during the last week, the only change
made is to cool five minutes longer.

As soon as the eggs begin to pip let the thermometer go up
to 104 or 105 degrees, being ‘careful not to let it go any higher,
as this heat will assist in liberating the chicks, and no attempt
should be made to lower it, for too low a temperature at the time
of exclusion is fatal to a seen hatch.

Do not open the incubator door to read the temperature; do
not open the door after the nineteenth day until the hatch is
cleaned up, which usually takes from 24 to 36 hours ie the
first chick hatches.

I have always had successful hatches by following this method.
Nearly every machine is accompanied by a card of directions for
operating it, which should be studied and followed.

HATCHING WITH HENS.

All sorts of interesting and uninteresting advice has been given
about ‘‘setting hens.’? When persons have one good hatch, to
them the problem is solved, and they know exactly how to do it.

In setting eggs for hatching, one of the most important points
to be observed is the correct proportioning of the number of eggs
a hen is capable of covering. The great error of setting a hen on
more eggs than she can cover, is the cause of very general dis-
appointment.

A hen cannot hatch out chickens from those eggs which she
cannot draw up close to her body and give them the natural

AcE, TEN Montus. WeEicHt, EicHtT Pounpns.
SINGLE-Coms RuHopE ISLAND Rep COCKEREL.
HATCHED AND RAISED IN My YaArps.

For Pouuttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 37

‘warmth they require in the process of incubation. Good hatches
are impossible without fresh, fertile eggs. 7

SELECTION OF EGGS.

The proper selection of eggs plays an important part in the sue-
cessful issue to which they are brought under the influence of in-
cubation. To imagine that any eggs collected from the nest in a
haphazard manner are suitable for hatching, is a mistake.

Eggs chosen for hatching purposes should be of normal size, of
nice shape, clean and possessing smooth shells. They should be
the product of strong, vigorous breeders.

Be careful in selecting a hen, as much depends upon the hen
and the way she is’set. A flighty, ill-natured hen should never
‘be set, no matter how persistent she may be, as such hens seldom
make good mothers.

GENTLE HENS IMPORTANT.

A quiet, gentle hen should be selected, her nest placed in a
quiet, secluded corner where the layers cannot disturb her, and
She should be sheltered so as to prevent rain water from finding
its way to the nest.

One understanding the nature of a setting hen knows that she
is always turning and changing the positions of the eggs, and,
unless she has ample space in which to turn, she tramples on them
and many valuable eggs are broken through having the nest too
small.

Poor results in hatching with the hen may be traced to but
a few causes, providing the eggs are what they should be. Broken
eggs in the nest is the most common cause of failures, and neglect
to thoroughly cleanse the shells so the pores will be opened. |

During the first week of incubation it will not injure the embryo
if the eggs are coated with the contents of the broken eggs for
24 hours. If coated the second week the chances are against them
and it will ered kill the chicks,

THE NEST.

The nest for brooding hens should be 15 inches square, 12 inches
high in the back and sides, and the front 6 inches high, which
enables the hen to get on ine off the nest in any easy manner,

Nests should be framed out of clean straw, not chaff. Do not
make them hollow, as the eggs pile on top of each other and thus
are broken. It should be made perfectly flat.

The hen should be dusted three times during incubation with
Some reliable insect powder to free her from any lice or mites.
Just before the chicks are expected to hatch another liberal dust.
ing should be given. her.

38 THe WricHt Way; or, PracticaL HIntTs

EGG ADVICE.

Valuable eggs should not be bought before brooders are secured
to set upon them. The hen should be placed on her nest and tested
for reliability before the eggs are set. Get the setters right first,
and the eggs will, if from proper sources, turn out all right at the
finish.

If novices at chicken hatching will follow the above simple rules,

the breeders who sell eggs for hatching ie as will get less un- |

deserved abuse from their customers.

TO DISCOURAGE A BROODY HEN.

A good way to discourage a broody hen is to place her with
others in a not too roomy coop with a slated front, where she
can see the other chickens scratching and running about.

She should be fed sparingly, because at this time her appetite
is greatly reduced.

If she is fed once a day it will be sufficient, but her food should
increase to keep pace with her appetite.

Of course, no two hens are exactly alike, nor can specific treat-
ment be accorded to each individual.

This being the case, it would be good sense to treat all alike
and with uniform kindness, _keeping in mind always her valuable
qualities and her good condition when she is wanted to rear a
family.

RAISING AND BROODING OF CHICKS.

Hatching chickens is very easily done, but raising them is a
more serious matter. The successful rearing of chicks depends
largely upon the condition of the parent stock. Vitality is the
foundation of successful chick raising. It is useless to try to raise
chicks -that have not been hatched from eggs laid by healthy
vigorous stock. In this article I wish to set forth my method of
feeding and brooding in brooders of my own make.

PREPARING FOR CHICKS.

In preparing the brooder to receive a hatch, I first serub the
floor as clean as possible. After it is thoroughly dry, sprinkle with
coarse sand to a depth of two inches. On top of the sand I scatter
alfalfa. This is done to teach the chicks to scratch.

After heating the brooder to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, it is ready
to receive the chicks, which are taken from the incubator and
placed under the hoover,

Maintaining this heat for the first week.

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4
2
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One or My Younc Rep PULLETS.
AcE, Four Monrus.

; Dives; Pathecdas oz ’

PRAT esvege

For Poutrry PROFITS IN THE BACK YARD, AI

At the beginning of the second week gradually reduce the tem-
perature from 5 to 10 degrees, and then gradually reduce the tem-
perature to correspond with the temperature of the outside world,
providing this temperature is not below 70 degrees.

FEEDING YOUNG CHICKS.

The way to feed chicks has a great deal to do with success. I
do not feed for forty-eight hours after they are hatched. The first
food is the coarse sand that covers the floor of the brooder. This
supplies them with natural grit. Dry, coarse wheat bran is next
placed before them in galvanized feed hoppers and is kept there
always, for there is nothing better during its existence than dry
wheat bran.

They will not eat much at first, but when they are educated to
eat bran it is astonishing to see the amount they will consume. |
Then give them a small feed of good commercial chick food, a
tablespoonful five times a day to every 25 chickens.

After the ninth day feed greens of some kind each day. A very
little at first, gradually increasing the amount as they grow older.
Sprouted oats, lettuce, cabbage, young grass, or clover cut up very.
fine will do.

After ten days increase the amount of chick food and decrease
the times of feeding until at one month of age they are fed three
times a day.

In watering chicks place. a drinking fountain of fresh, clean.
water where they can reach it conveniently, and they will soon

discover it and learn to drink.

When six weeks of age the chick food may be discontinued.
The chicks should now be given larger quarters, for they should
never be overcrowded. : ,

You may now feed them the ordinary commercial food, which
must be fresh and of good quality. Charcoal should be before
them all the time. They will require finely ground lean meat twice
a week. Should you be unable to get the fresh meat give them
beef scraps, which should be sifted, the fine portion being fed to
the young chicks and the coarser part given to the oldér fowls.
Beef scraps can be purchased at any time from any of the poultry
supply stores.

As chicks grow older they should have as much space as it is
possible to spare them, shielded from winds, drafts and dampness.
Sanitary conditions are absolutely necessary.

You will have to depend upon your own judgment for many
things that could not be told here. Just think and use common

- sense, prompted by close observation, and success is assured.

- 42 THE WriGHT Way; oR, PRacticaL HINntTs

CHANGES WHICH AN EGG UNDERGOES.
IN HATCHING.

The process of incubation of the chicken is a subject not only —

curious, but very interesting.

It generally takes 21 days to hatch a brood of chickens.

The expiration of that time should be carefully watched for,
not that the chickens requires any assistance, but, on the con-
trary, interference is much more likely to prove an injury than
a benefit.

- A healthy chick will perform all that is required to free it from
the shell.

“It is wonderful the power they possess while rolled up in so
apparently a helpless mass; the head, however, that makes the most
exertion to free itself, is placed so as to leave room for reaction
and to turn round and thus to peck a cirele and break around

the large end of the shell, admitting the air by degrees, until it

becomes gradually prepared to extricate itself.
DIFFERENT CHANGES.

The hen has set on her eggs scarcely 12 hours before some
lineaments of the head and body of the chicken appear.

The heart may be seen to beat at the end of of the second
day. It has at that time somewhat the form of a horseshoe, but
no blood yet appears.

At the end of two days two vesicles of blood are to be dis-

tinguished, the pulsation of which is very visible. One of these

is the left ventricle and the other the root of the great artery.
At the fiftieth hour one auricle of the heart appears, resembling
a noose folded down upon itself.
The beating of the heart is first observed in the auricle, and
afterwards in the ventricle.

FIRST VOLUNTARY MOTION.

At the end of 70 hours the wings are distinguishable; and on
the head two bubbles are seen for the brain, one for the bill and
two for the fore and hind part of the head.

Towards the end of the fourth day the two auricles already
visible draw nearer to the heart than before.

The liver appears toward the fifth day.

At the end of 131 hours the first voluntary motion is observed.

At the end of seven hours more the lungs and the stomach
become visible, and four hours afterward the intestines and loins
and the upper jaw.

At the fourteenth hour two ventricles are visible, and two
drops of blood instead of the single one which was seen before.

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A Promisinc Younc Rep PULLET.
AcE, [THREE AND ONE-Hatr MonrTus.

5 eet al Ra

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For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 45

THE SEVENTH DAY.

On the seventh day the brain begins.

At the 119th hour of incubation the bill opens and the flesh
appears on the breast.

In four hours more the breast bone is seen.

In six hours after this the ribs appear, forming the back, and
the bill is very visible, ay well as the gall bladder.

The bill becomes green at the end of 236 hours, and if the
chicken be taken out of its covering it evidently moves itself.

THE EYES APPEAR.

The feathers begin to shoot out towards the 240th hour, and
the skull becomes gristly.

At the 264th hour the eyes appear.

At the 288th the ribs are perfect.

At the 331st the patos draws near the stomach and the lungs
to the chest.

At the end of 355 es the bill frequently opens and shuts,
and at the end of the eighteenth day the first ery of the chicken
is heard...

It afterwards gets more strength and grows continually, till at
length it is enabled to set itself free from its confinement.

In the whole of this process every part appears at its proper
time; if, for example, the liver is formed on the fifth day, it is
founded on the preceding situation of the chicken, and on the
changes that were to follow.

No part of the body could possibly appear either sooner or
later without the whole embryo suffering, and each of the limbs
become visible at the first moment.

This ordination, so wise and so invariable, is manifestly the
work of a Supreme Being, but we must still more sensibly ac-
knowledge His creative powers when we consider the manner in
which the chicken is formed out of the parts which compose
the egg.

How astonishing it must appear to an observing mind that
in this substance there should at all be the vital principle of
animated being; that all the parts of an animal’s body should
be concealed in it, and require nothing but heat to unfold and
quicken them; that the whole formation of the chicken should
be so constant and regular; that exactly at the same time the
Same changes will take place in the generality of the eggs; that
the chicken, the moment it is hatched, is heavier than the egg

- was before.

But even these are not all the wonders in the formation of
the bird from the egg—for this instance will serve to illustrate

46 THe Wright Way; or, Practicat Hints

the whole of the feathered tribe—there are others altogether
hidden from our observation and of which, from our very limited
faculties, we must ever remain ignorant.

- The above article was taken from an old volume of the Gen-
esee Farmer and Gardeners’ Journal of July, 1833, and we trust
will be of interest to our many readers.

VITALITY THAT EGGS CONTAIN.

This problem puzzles most poultrymen and one would wonder
how it could be explained. 7

For example, take fertile eggs only and fill the incubator.

Light the lamp and don’t test the eggs till 21 days have ex-
pired, when most of the eggs hatch.

When testing those that don’t hatch you find some (probably
only one) that are not clear, but have an even cloudy look.

You break the egg and it is rotten.

This egg has no vitality at all, therefore the germ is dead,
which made the egg rotten. ;

If a vegetable seed has no vitality it is dead, and when you.
plant it it simply rots. |

Next is the egg with the black spot in it, called the weak
germ, and dies on the tenth day of incubation.

This egg had 10 per cent. of vitality, therefore it had only 10
per cent. ef blood and 10 per cent. of animal heat, and when you
took the eggs out of the incubator to cool this egg cooled off
ten times as quick as the perfect egg that has 100 per cent. of
heat. The egg became so cold that the germ chilled to death.

Next is the egg that produces the chick that dies in the shell.

This egg had 20 per cent. vitality.

The chick is only one-fifth as strong as it should be, and when
the time of incubation has expired and the chick begins to
breathe, it is too weak to break the shell and it smothers to
death.

Next is the chick that broke the shell but cannot get out, and
then we find the shell dried fast to the chick.

Some folks claim there was not enough moisture, but they are
mistaken.

The egg this chick is from only had 30 per cent. of the vitality
and the chick is only 30 per cent. as strong as it ought to be,
and it was so slow getting out of the shell that the dry air in
the incubator soon dried the thin skin that is between the chick
and shell which makes the skin tough and the chick is —ore
like a fly in the web. :

This skin is weak when moist, and strong when dry.

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For PouttrRy PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 49

Just the same as moist paper is weak and dry paper is strong.

Next is the chick that dies when one week old.

The egg had 40 per cent. vitality and the chick has 40 per
cent. of a constitution and weak digestive organs. |

It has hard work to digest the yolk of the egg that nature has
placed within it, and when it eats it dies with indigestion.

Next is the chick that grows to feathers and dies at the danger
line.

The feathers only grow natural and the body stops growing.

The egg had 50 per cent. vitality, and as it takes 50 per cent.
_ of vitality to grow feathers, the feathers draw that amount from
the body and the body fades away and the chick dies because it
has no vitality to live on.

Next is the chick that stops growing when it is only half-grown,
with its head drawn back between its shoulders.

It has indigestion and that causes bowel trouble.

The chick gets weaker every. day and finally dies.

The egg the chick hatched from had 60 per cent of vitality.

Next is the chick you find lying on the ground, as if dead,
Some ¢old morning or chilly day.

The egg and chick had 70 per cent. vitality.

It is lacking 30 per cent. in animal heat and feathers, and
when damp, chilly weather sets in in the fall it cannot help but
take cold. | :

It has a thick slime in its mouth that it keeps chewing at.

It has a good appetite but mopes around and finally gets the
white diarrhoea and dies. |

Next is the full grown chick that takes cold in a draft at
night or overcrowded coop.

When it leaves the warm coop it cools off too quickly, as it
is lacking in feathers, because the egg only had 80 per cent.
vitality.

The chick has not enough self-sustaining material to preserve
the body.

The blood contains too much water, and as the eye is the
weakest member of the body it will decompose first, like it does
in all creatures that die.

Then the body wastes away or goes into consumption, and the

chick dies.

Next is the pullet that lays late in the Spring and in summer,
and then only at intervals.

The egg has 90 per cent. vitality and the pullet is lacking 10
per cent. in every respect, and because some of the food the
pullet eats goes towards supplying the missing 10 per cent. the
pullet cannot lay every day.

50 THE WricgHT Way; or, Practica, Hints

Next is the pullet that begins to lay at five months of age,
or the hen that is a good winter layer.

The egg she was hatched from-had 100 per cent. of vitality
and she had 100 per cent. of blood, animal heat and feathers,
therefore, her body is protected from cold weather, and that is
why she lays in winter.

She can roost in a tree, in a draft or in the over-crowded coop
and not take cold, because her thick coat of feathers and her
perfect animal heat prevents her from cooling off to such an
extent that she can take cold.

She can eat anything.

She can indure anything that nature will put upon her, because
She is as nature intended she should be—perfect in every respect.

Some one may ask how I know these eggs have the amount of
vitality I claim they have.

We all know the more vitality a creature has the more he can
endure, and the more he can edure the longer he will live.

The weak germ, with 10 per cent. of vitality, that die on the
tenth day, cannot stand the shock of being cooled as much as
the other eggs.

The chick with 50 per cent. vitality that dies at the danger
line could not stand the shock of giving 50 per cent. of vitality
to grow feathers.

The perfect chicken, with 100 per cent. of vitality, can stand
these shocks, and that is why it lives.

There is certainly no pleasure in hatching weak chicks.

There is certainly no money in them, and most poultrymen
incubate strong eggs only that produce good winter layers, as
they are the ones that pay off the mortgage on the farm and
swell their bank accounts, and the few that hatch chicks that do

not reach maturity do it through ignorance.

In some respects ignorance is bliss—but not in the poultry
business. WwW. F. KEMPER.

FOUNDATION STOCK.

It is useless to begin with poor stock. You will find after it
is too late, and you have wasted good time and money in common
mixed chickens, that it is all wasted. Why should any person
wish to fill his yard with an unsightly mixture of scrub chickens
picked up from any place that you know nothing of? Take a
yard filled with any of the thoroughbred birds and a person only
has to look at them to fall in love with them. And the desire
at once assails them for something of the kind. That it is a
proven fact that thoroughbred chickens lay best, grow faster,

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For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YaArpD. 53

and if you want to sell the eggs or chickens you can get a price,
for in a poultry-loving place like Louisiana there is no fear of
not being able to get buyers for eggs or surplus stock. If you
have the real thing all you have to do is to let the people know
you have them. The best way to do this is to advertise in a
good poultry journal.

In buying for a start, if you don’t care to spend much money,
invest in some good eggs. Buy only from responsible people.
If you can afford birds, study the description of the different
fowls and make up your mind which will be the best for your
location and purpose, and if possible get some experienced friend
to help you buy. But, if you can’t do that, then read over the
various descriptions of different breeds, which will help you some
as to color, size, shape of body and comb. Also, try to get young
hens. You need not buy them all from the same yard. If the
eggs or chickens you buy from a dealer prove as he represented
them, it would be a good idea to stay with him if you need more.

ONE VARIETY MORE PROFITABLE THAN
| | MANY.

‘‘That there ig a certain fascination in being surrounded by
fowls diverse in shape and various in coloring, cannot be success-
fully denied,’’ says H. S. Babeock in Poultry Monthly.

That many poultrymen succumb to this fascination is obvious
to anyone who will glance at the various advertisements in a
poultry journal and the different poultry publications. But that
a single variety is enough for most breeders and contains the
promise of greater success, it is believed, is the simple truth.

Every breeder should aim to win the highest possible round
of success; as a rule he is not a breeder ‘‘for his health’’ only.
but because there is joy and profit in doing something a little
better than anybody else has succeeded in doing.

Good birds are perhaps desirable, but the best are only desired

To the condition of the best the breeder exerts his muscle
and exercises his ‘‘ grey matter.’’ |

That is his aim and purpose in life. To breed any variety
so as to get the most out of it, and by this is meant to produce
the finest specimens and make such specimens pay the greatest
profit, this requires a thorough knowledge of its history, its char-
acteristics, its capacities and its breeding tendencies.

54 THE WrigHtr Way; or, PracricaL HINtTs

SINGLE VARIETY.

He who limits his choice to a single variety is more likely to
obtain the requisite knowledge and obtain it in less time than
he who scatters his efforts over many breeds and varieties.

It is easier to master one science than to learn something about
many sciences, and it is also much more valuable.

By studying a single variety one learns more thoroughly its
correct type, its particular coloration, its habits and character-
istics; how to breed, manage and Care for it, so as to make it
thrive and pay; and how to mate so as to improve its character-
istics; how to hatch and rear so as to avoid loss and promote its
development; in brief, one learns the strong and weak points of
the variety, its merits and demerits and what must be done to
increase one and decrease the other.

With the single variety the foundation of a correct ideal of |

what the fowls should be and may become is comparatively easy,
and the formation of such an ideal is the first step towards its
realization.

A DECIDED ADVANTAGE.

One correct ideal is more easily formed than several, and it
is more clearly and constantly comprehended.

A correct ideal should not be simply to possess some indefinite
benefit. The breeder should not be like a child erying for the
moon, but should be definite in outline and in accordance with
the possibilities of ‘the variety, an extension, enlargement or
increase of existing merits.

It should be impossible only in the sense that perfection is
impossible, not in the sense that it is contrary to the natural
development of the fowls. for an attempt to produce the impos-
sible in this latter sense is clearly a waste of time and effort.

With such a correct ideal as an ultimate goal, every effort
counts, even if the goal is unattainable. |

And in the formation of a correct ideal the breeder of the
single variety has the advantage over the breeder of several
varieties.

His ideal stands out boldly in his mind, clear in outline point-
ing in the direction of natural development, based on a through
knowledge of the variety, and enabling him to avoid the humil-
iation which always waits upon misdirected efforts.

A SIMPLE ILLUSTRATION.

From time to time the introduction of fresh blood becomes
desirable or necessary. To do this the breeder of several varie-
ties, say five, for illustration, must do one of two things—either

"a

For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 55

Spend more money or be content with less valuable birds than -
the breeder of a single variety.

A simple illustration: X, who breeds five varieties, and Y,
who breeds but one variety, determines to enter fresh blood into
their stock through the purchase of male birds.

X must buy five males; Y needs to buy but one.

If they both buy males of the same quality, say, $25 each,
X must spend $125 while Y spends but $25. Or, if they set apart
but $25 each for this purpose, X can purchase $5 birds with his
money, while Y can obtain a $25 bird with vastly greater chances
of obtaining high-class property.

In either event Y, the breeder of a single variety, hay a decided
- advantage over X.

FEEDING GROWING PULLETS.

Giving too much food to poultry in a short space of time is a
very bad habit. Notice their habits and you will perceive that

the process of picking up their food under ordinary or natural
conditions is a very slow one.

Grain by grain is the meal taken, and in the aggregate no
small amount of sand, pebbles and the like, all of which passes
into the crop and assists digestion greatly. The common practice
of feeding poultry in a great ‘‘heap’’ thrown down at one time
and the birds are allowed to peg away at such a rate that their
crop is filled too rapidly. The process of assimilation is then
_ slow, painful and incomplete.

DISEASES -PREVENTED.

Many other diseases which affect chickens may be prevented by
breeders if a little precaution is taken in the simple matter of
feeding.

There are a great many failures made in handling pullets. The
common practice is to so feed as to induce early egg production,
but there could not be a greater mistake made.

The fancier who is depending upon pullets to supply eggs for
hatching purposes to produce another season will make no such
mistake. He realizes that he is handling breeders; that he must
bring them to maturity in body and frame; that the breeding
pullet must be so handled and fed that she will become a hen
fully developed as to size, form and vigor.

56 THEe WriGHT Way; or, PRACTICAL HINTS

EARLY MATURITY.

There is a great deal written and said in favor of early maturity.
In my experience I find that pullets that have matured more grad-
ually and allowed to gain full size and strength of bone and body,
and full plumage, before they begin to lay, will make better
layers and breeders than if they are fed so strongly as to begin
laying before they are fully grown; before she has her. full
growth of body, bone and plumage.

Those who understand feed bone and body-forming foods that
will grow size, strength and feathers, rather than to induce a too
early egg production.

FOOD SUPPLY.

Now we arrive at the point where we must decide upon the
food supply; the foods that will give to the pullets all that is
required by growing stock in the making of bone and muscles,
flesh, feathers and blood.

At the head of all desirable food for such stocks stands oats
and wheat. I find that no other grain food is so rich in bone
and muscle-making properties, and these grains are as necessary
to the fancier’s stock as is milk for the young calf. |

As a seratech food they are indispensable, but other foods are
necessary, aS we must supply all needs. Wheat, oats and other
small grain found in all good commercial feeds are fed in a deep
litter every morning and evening.

This feeding should be light, or not enough to fully setiete
their appetites.

About the middle of the day green food should be given them.

Water should be given them just as early as grain. When a
chicken comes from its perch the first thing it seems to partake
of, if it is handy, is a drink of water.

CHARCOAL AND GRIT.

Charcoal and grit should be kept before them all the time. Beef
scraps should be given two or three times a week.

The large producing hen is the results of unceasing efforts.
Those who are not well acquainted with the poultry conditions
as they exist to-day, do not appreciate the possibilities of the
laying hen from a financial standpoint.

This is an age of large records. Scarcely a week passes that
does not herald the remarkable performances of some poultry-
man’s flock.

The laying hen is certainly a factor worthy of careful con-
sideration, therefore, care for the growing pullets.

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For PouLtTry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 59

CARE OF BREEDING STOCK.

There is a great difference of opinion regarding the proper way
of feeding and management of breeds for all purposes, ete. First
of all, their proper care and keeping is essential to success, for,
while one may have what they consider the best breed, if they
are not properly cared for, they will, in majority of cases, prove
a failure. I have seen many eases of gross neglect of fowls
wherein the owner complained that his or her chickens brought
no returns for the money expended upon them. Experience has
taught me that there is no money lost in keeping a few good
fowls. On the contrary,.a great deal of pleasure and profit is
derived from it.

PROPER FOOD AND FEEDING.

Naturat conditions are the essential points to success. Never
forget that where chickens are in close confinement they are
entirely dependent upon you, for such things as could easily be
obtained if they were on a large, open range. Never stint poultry
in the variety or quality of their food. Good food is positive
economy. Fowls in close confinement should be fed three times
a day. Morning and evening a good quality of commercial feed
should be given them. This must be fed in a litter of hay or
straw, about eight or ten inches deep. When fed in this manner
the fowl will have to work and seratch to find the grain, and the
more they work and scartch the more exercise they will get,
which is essential to their health and general well-being.

GREEN FOOD

Should be supplied for the noon-day meal and never overoloked,
for it is one of the most important things to be considered when
it comes to the feed question. There are many things that can
be substituted for grass when there is none to be had. Sprouted
oats is one of the best things that can be fed as green food. It
is also very cheap and easily made, but when sprouted oats are
not to be had, or have net been prepared, cabbage, lettuce and
mustard, or, in fact, most any garder vegetable may be given.
All green food except sprouted oats should be chopped fine before
being fed to the fowls. Grass clippings from the lawn should even
be cut, as it is liable to cause a fowl to become crop bound on
account of it being too long to allow it passing through the crop
as it should. In chopping up the green food it is not only better
for the chickens, but is much cheaper for the breeder, especially
in winter when all vegetables are high and hard to get, for noth-

*

60 THe WricHt Way; or, PracticaL HINTS

ing is lost-as it is when a lot of food is thrown out in bulk and
the chickens can only get what they are able to pick off, leaving
the rest to rot and decay and cause disease to spread through
the flock.

WET MASH.

In the morning, twice a week, the grain should be omitted
and a mash feed consisting of a teacup of powdered charcoal,
one pint of beef scraps, one quart of ground oats, one quart of
sifted corn chops one quart of alfalfa meal and one quart of
wheat bran, to which add one tablespoonful of table sale; mix
thoroughly with hot water. This ought not to be made too moist,
but just so it will crumble well in the hand. Raw, lean meat is
very fine food when it can be obtained without costing too much,
and should be fed once a week at noon time, omitting the green
food. Charcoal, cracked oyster shells and dry fresh wheat bran
should be kept in hoppers before them all the time. Fowls fed
regularly in this manner will keep your egg basket well filled.

ONE REASON FOR WEAK CHICKENS.

What is necessary to have strong healthy chicks?

What are the best to breed from pullets or hens?

The above questions are often asked me by visitors who visii
my yards. My answer is that the first thing necessary to have
strong healthy chicks is healthy parents.

And that I get best results from breeders both male and female
that are past one year old. The pullets having then reached
maturity, the time of laying large eggs, are then fully developed
and should be in better physical condition than earlier or later
in life.

That too many pullets that are not fully matured are being
used in the breeding pen, and that this is the cause of so many
failures to hatch strong, healthy chicks, is in my opinion a posi
tive fact.

I have many times expressed my opinion as to the cause of
weak chickens, or at least one cause for them, and I am glad to
have my opinion confirmed by such good authority as Professor
W. A. Lippincott, as will be seen in the following from his pen,
which I find in the New England Homestead. Poultry breeders
will do well to remember the facts Professor Lippincott sets forth.

He says: ‘‘There is a common practice among farmers and
fanciers which as much as any other is responsible for this state
of affairs. It is breeding from pullets. It is a great temptation
to do this.

op ee ae ee es

For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 61

‘“Everyone knows that the pullet-laying year is the most profit-
able year, as far as eggs are concerned. That this is so in itself
points to lack of strength and staying power.

‘‘It is so, nevertheless, and it is the most natural thing in the
world to set some of these pullet eggs and then sell the pullets as
soon as her money-making days are over. This is where trouble
begins. :

‘-A pullet lays a smaller egg than she will as a hen. The
average weight of 100 White Leghorn hen’s eggs, for instance,
has been found to be 12.96 pounds, where 100 pullet eggs weighed
on the average 11.19 pounds.

‘A small egg always gives a small chick when it hatches. A
small chick may grow into a good sized chicken, but it doesn’t
have the show to do it that a chick of the same breed hatched
from a larger egg does.

“*Tf you are going to have good stock of any kind, it is a
pretty safe proposition to have it born right. If this is true of
larger animals it is increasingly true of birds which mature in a
single season.’’ |

While I have no experimental data on this exact point, data
taken from the West Virginia experiment station shows practi-
ezlly the same thing. Where about 2,000 eggs were incubated the
following results were obtained:

Per cent. eggs hatched, hens, 76.7 per cent.; pullets, 67.8 per
cert. Average weight 100 at hatchings, hens, 8.28 pounds; pul-
lets, 7.12 pounds. Average weight 100 at three to four weeks,
hens, 29.56 pounds; pullets, 23.07 pounds. Chicks dying before
four weeks, hens, 5 per cent; pullets, 14.5 per cent.

Because a pullet can lay a lot of eggs that are perfect to the

taste, it does not necessarily follow that she is fully developed
enough to produce eggs that will hatch perfect chicks.
- Both experiments and experience have shown that the hatea
ability of pullet eggs and the ‘‘livability’’ of the chicks after
they are hatched are less than from the same individuals as
yearling hens and 2-year-olds.

When one breeds from pullets he does not give natural selection
a chance to help him out. We hear a good deal about the survival
of the fittest. It works in the hen yard as well as anywhere else.
A certain proportion of pullets stands up under the strain of
heavy laying better than the rest. They may lay no more eggs
during the spring and early summer. It is along July and August,
when the thermometer registers 95 on the north side of the house,
that the difference shows.

62 THE WricHt Way; or, PRActTicaAL HINTS

They are still active and vigorous and still laying eggs clear
up until they begin to molt. Their weaker sisters begin to be a
bit peevish when the hot weather comes on, and some of them die.

We don’t think much of it, partly because we are used to it,
and partly because we feel that we have already secured a. goed
profit on their winter’s laying.

The thing that should appeal to us is that there was a funda-
mental weakness present that caused them to break down; and,
further, that we have a bunch of young stuff coming on, a good
percentage of which have inherited the same hidden weakness.

We have been using pullets as breeders without giving them a
chance to die. The thing to do is to breed from none but the
vigorous, fully matured hens, hens that have stood up toe the
summer as well as the A pat

All the inferior ones, and none but these, should be marketed;
by such practices the vigor of the flock can be increased and the
complaints of inferior stock done away with.

LINE BREEDING.

This is a subject upon which we are receiving many inquiries.
‘‘Line breeding is in-breeding’’ some will answer, and so it is;
but it is in-breeding with a purpose. The advantage is that by
line breeding we restrict the number of ancestors an animal ean
throw back to. ‘‘Like will produce like or the likeness of some
ancestor. ’’

Let us take, as a concrete instance to illustrate the subject, the
breeding of poultry. In doing this we may say at the outset that
one of the disadvantages of line breeding is that people who know
only that the dam is bred to her son, and the sire to his pulelts,
practice it with disastrous results. The intelligent breeder will
not undertake line breeding unless he has a bird with choice quali-
ties which he wishes to reproduce. If he has many desirable
qualities wrapped up in a single bird he is anxious to get as much
of the blood of that bird as possible in his flock. With this in
view he mates the bird with as good a bird, better if possible,
of the opposite sex. Much thought is given to this first mating,
and the less of desirable qualities is headed by health or vigor.
These birds must be desirable specimens of their breed and in
vigorous health. The true fancier is in no hurry; he waits years
for resul‘s which satisfy him, but he gets them.

The next step in the process of line breeding is to breed the
best of the daughters back to their sire. and the best of their
sons to the dam. Suppose we take a pair of birds and eall our

ee ee ee

For Povuttry PROFITS IN THE BAck YARD. 63

cock X and the hen Y. The blood of their progeny will be equally
mixed, half and half. If Y is mated to her best son their progeny
will be three-fourths her blood and one-fourth the blood of X.
The progeny of X’s pullets mated to himself would be three-
fourths his blood and one-fourth Y’s. Mate a three-fourths blood
of Y’s to a three-fourths blood of X’s and you have half the
blood of each of the original pair. Take these three-fourths
blood pullets of X’s and mate them back to X and you have
progeny that are seven-eigths his blood. Progeny similarly
mated to Y produces breeds that are likewise seven-eighths of
her blood. And so proceed till you reach a point where you' have
a male and female line of nearly the blood of Y, also a male and
female line virtually the same blood as X, but keep the line of
sires unbroken. Thus using always in a certain group of mating
a sire in which the blood of the original sire predominates, and
also a group of matings with the blood of the original hen pre-
dominating, you can in time produce three distinct strains.

If as much attention is given to health and vigor as to fancy
qualities, stock from a plant where line breeding is understood
and intelligently practiced, should be strongly prepotent, and ©
having the power to transmit to their progeny their own good
qualities. Line breeding can be, and frequently is, carried to a
point where the flock is dwarfed and stunted, but our judgment is
that in such cases no attention has been paid to breeding for
health and stamina.

We believe that farmers would be much benefited by following
line breeding to a certain extent. Many farmers send away for
many cockrels each year paying a moderate price and express
charges. If they would send to a breeder whose birds were not
the result of chance matings, pay him what it usually costs to get
such birds, for two years, and mate them to the best of their
flock, they could safely use them two years. Two $10 cockerels
in two years will do the flock more good than four $5 cockerels
in the same time. Providing always that the breeds are of good
value for the money.

And let us say now, when you find a breeder who gives you
good value tor your money, stick to him.—EXCHANGE:

SOME REASONS FOR FAILURES.

In the poultry business as well as in any other, the man who.
fails is often an unstable individual who does not know his own
mind: He goes in for each and every variety he sees and soars
to the skies for a while, and then lets it drop to take up some-

64 THE WricHTtT Way; or, PractTicaL HINTs

thing new. This is a sure road to failure. Then, again, the
man who fails is the beginner who imagines that he is going to
make an enormous profit on a few chickens in a very short time,
building castles in the air. A man must work hand in hand with
the poultry business, for it takes pract’'cal methods and not ‘‘day
dreaming’’ of some glorious future to land success.

LACK OF SYSTEM.

The man who fails is often lacking in judgment. He may be
thoroughly honest and a willing worker, and only too willing to
do what there is to be done; but he does not know how to manage
or to regulate a system. Therefore, he works harder than is
necessary and retains no results.

All such persons are to be pitied. They imagine that it is
only their bad luck, not- stonping to consider that it is neglect
with bad judgment, and that they have failed to give the poultry
business the study and attention that it deserves. There is not
a business to-day in which the chances of success are greater than
poultry raising. Give it the same careful study and time that is
necessary to give any other paying business and there will not be
any question as to which will pay you the best. 3

THE PRACTICAL MAN.

The practical man with a reasonable desire to make his chickens
furnish him with what eggs and chickens he needs for his family
use, and at the same time enable him to sell enough to pay for
their feed and other expenses, usually succeeds far beyond his
expectations. |

No matter how much money you invest in houses or how well
you are situated, nor how good and up-to-date your fixtures may
be, if you are not capable of contenting your mind with one or
two breeds and not always be changing, or to be satisfied with
what is a reasonable profit or result, success will never follow.

Some of the most noted breeders there are, and the ones who
have been the most successful, are the ones who have selected
one or two breeds and stuck to them until they did succeed.
Take, for instance, Fishel’s, the White Rock and Wyandotte men;
Lester Thompkins the Rhode Island Red breeder, or Cook, the
originator of the Orpington breed. These distinguished poultry-
men are noted for the purity of their stock and the great success
they have achieved.

The most common error made to-day by the novice is thinking
that they ought to do in a few months what it has taken these
men years to accomplish.

For Pouttry Prorits IN THe Back Yarp. 65

Let the man or woman who wants to raise poultry for profit
bear in mind that any one of fair ability and of average energy,
who is honest with himself and others, and who will not make
misleading statements, may win success in the poultry business
the same as in any other.

BUYER AND SELLER.

Knowledge acquired by personal experience and observation is
one of the most essential things about the poultry business. One
of the greatest drawbacks of the business is the lack of congruity
existing between the buyer and seller, each one fearing that the
other fellow will get the best of the bargain.

Dissatisfaction is often brought about by the buyer not know-
ing the value of a good bird and expecting more than he is will-
ing to pay for them. These individuals may be excused, as it is
an experience almost every breeder has passed through when
starting in the business before he really learned the value of
pure-bred stock and the great worth of a good breeding fowl.
Few beginners will consider the fact in buying poultry they are
_ sure to get better quality for more money.

POLITE TO CUSTOMERS.

The breeder who takes no care in mating his birds and is satis-
fied to produce only ordinary stock, is the man who causes the
most dissatisfaction.

The careful breeder who has good stock is polite to his cus
tomers and always willing to make good when something goes
wrong with a sale he has made, has a hold on his customers for
stock and eggs for hatching that brings them back year after
year, sometimes to get birds to fill out the breeding pens or for
an exhibition bird when one is wanted.

FULL VALUE.

A breeder never loses a cent by trying to see that his customers
get full value for their money. To the true and sincere poultry-
man there is as much pleasure in learning of the results his cus-
tomers obtain as there is in the profits he derives. Breeders of
this class very seldom, if ever, have misunderstanding with the
buyer.

Some poultrymen contend that it is imp ossible to raat every:
body, therefore, do not pu* themselves out to please any one,
claiming that if oné person don’t buy another will. This kind of
poultry breeders not only fail ‘to get pleasure and profit out of
the poultry business, but every other good thing in life.

66 THE WriGHT Way; or, PRActTIcAL HINTS

INFERTILE EGGS.

One of the most common complaints lodged against the breeder
who makes a business of selling eggs for hatching is the non-
fertility of eggs, a complaint well founded in some cases and un-
called for in many, for while a breeder should guarantee his eggs
and should not fail to make good when eggs that he has sold fails.
to give the buyer a fair percentage of chicks, the buyer should
also be fair in judgment and always fully consider the rough
way in which eggs are handled in shipping, the condition of the
weather, the disposition of the hen or the ability of the mar
running the incubator.

DO NOT MISREPRESENT.

There is nothing that makes a poultryman feel prouder than
to hear himself spoken of as a capable breeder and a responsible
business man, for these are the things that land success every
time.

Always be conscientious in every dealing, no matter how small
the sale may be; never sell a bird for a breeder when you know
absolutely that he is not fit for the purpose, simply because you
have not the room and want to dispose of him. Things mis-
represented in ever so small a way will always reflect on the
quality of your stock and your own reputation.

NO PROFIT IN CHEAP POULTRY.

It never pays to buy anything cheap if you can afford to buy™
the best, or even second best.

It may seem like economy in the first cost, but the first cost is
never all of the cost by any means, and anything cheap which is.
not of standard brand will not give the satisfaction that is foune
in the real article.

People frequently ask when entering the poultry business if it
would not do just as well to get inexpensive chickens, even though
they were not of a good breed to start with. My answer is this:
It is useless to begin with poor stock. You will find after it is
too late and you have wasted time and money in common mixed
chickens.

Why should any person wish to fill their yards with an un-
sightly mixture of serub chickens picked up from any and every
place that you know nothing of.

Take a yard filled with any of the thoroughbred birds and to
fall in love with them it is only necessary to see them, and the
desire at once assails them to own some of the same kind.

AUIY.

Licht BrAHMa Cocx Brrp
A BE

yy is
Pia oobi
© Ape heen

=e

Pe et re
7

Poy gt ES 2h: EL VEN meat teres

For PounttRy PROFITS IN THE BAcK YARD. 69

It is a proven fact that thoroughbred chickens lay best and
grow faster, and if you want to sell the eggs or chickens you can
get a price for them in a poultry-loving place like the South;
there is no fear of not being able to get buyers for eggs or
surplus stock.

If you have the real thing all you have to do is to let people
know that you have them. This you can easily do by advertising
in some widely read daily paper containing a poultry department,
or a first-class poultry journal.

FITTING BIRDS FOR THE SHOW ROOM.

When birds have reached the proper age, and you have selected
those you think good enough to exhibit, place them in good, roomy
training coops, similar to’ an exhibition coop, about three feet
above the floor, males and females separate. In this coop each
bird may be daily trained in preparation for the show. A bird
placed in the training coop is taught to stand up and by proper
posing to show off his fine shape to advantage. The trainer may
use a light stick, about %4-inch thick and two feet in length, to-
touch the bird and make him pose correctly. After a few lessons
he should pose promptly on the approach of the trainer or any
other person. This should be done at least two or three weeks
before time for exhibition. Feed good, nourishing food, with
plenty of green stuff, charcoal and grit. Each time you feed
endeavor to tame them by handling and so prepare them for the
show room. This is very important, as a timid, frightened bird
is greatly handicapped when judging time comes.

If the birds are white, or their plumage soiled, they should be
washed a few days before time for shipment. To do this, prepare
three tubs of water. Tub No. 1 should contain water as warm
as can be comfortably borne by the hand; shave into this a cake
of ivory soap, then put in the bird. Work the lather well into
the feathers, down to the skin, always being careful to work with
the feathers and not against them. Feathers are easily broken, and
breaking one of the main wing or tail feathers may mean the
loss of a prize. Keep your left hand on the back of the fowl, so
you can control it, and it will soon come to understand and will
give up. Having gone over all the feathers well, wash the face
and comb. Tub No. 2 should contain luke-warm water; into this
now put the bird, holding firmly by each wing-bow, so it cannot
struggle. Wash thoroughly in this tub until every particle of
soap has been washed out. This is important, as soap left in the
feathers causes them to stick together and curl so they will not

70 THe Wricut Way; or, PracticaL HINTS

plume when dry. Being satisfied that all the soap has been washed
out in tub No. 2, now place the bird in tub No. 3, of cool water,
to which has been added about as much blueing as would be used
for clothes. After this, the bird is ready to be dried. Now press
out some of the water and stand in a clean coop, in a warm place
(85 to 90 degrees is not too hot) near a stove,and gradually move
back as the feathers dry. Occasionally raise the feathers with
the hand and fan vigorously with a fan. When birds have been
thoroughly dried, place in very clean dry coops, into which has
been put clean dry straw or pine shavings. Be sure to have a
perch in each coop. Three birds may be washed in same water,
after which all three tubs should be refilled as at first. It is not
necessary to wash black or parti-colored birds. Their plumage
may be cleaned by sponging with warm water, then afterwards
rubbed well with a dry silk cloth, on which has been dropped a
small quantity of sweet oil.

When time to ship, go over the birds carefully and rub off with
a cloth dampened with alcohol all spots or stains they may have
acquired since washing, and having a small bottle of half alcohol
and half olive or sweet oil, dampen a small svonge and go over
their legs, feet, comb and bill, being careful to get none on the
feathers.

If the birdy are white, you may carefully pull (dont break) all

black or black-ticked feathers, except main wing and tail feathers.

If these latter are pulled the bird will be scored against just as
heavily as if left in. A white bird having an inch or more of black
on main wing or tail feather, had better be left at home. Have the
birds placed in single coops, or single compartments of the same
coop, having the coops high enough not to cramp them.—H. C.
HASKINS.

WHAT IS UTILITY CHICKENS?

In every hatch, large or small, from the oldest strain and the
best birds used in America, there will be chickens with some
slight defect. Sometimes it happens that a bird is as fine a speci-
men as there is in the poultry yards, but there is a white feather
or Several of them where there should have been red feathers.

Then, again, perfect except a feather on the leg, or a twist,
or a lump on the comb, or a slipped wing, or wiry tail, or a hiun-
dred other small imperfections that make the bird unfit for show
purposes, but it is from the same parents and full brother or
sister to the bird that goes out of the show with a blue ribbon,
and thereby enhance his or her value many times.

=
ee ead nal

.

~—

————
7 ,

For Poutrry Prorits IN THE Back YARD. "1

FREQUENTLY GIVES SPLENDID RESULTS.

These birds will not do to breed from by a poultryman, because
he is after, as nearly possible, mating up his birds so as to pro-
duce birds that will conform to the rules laid down in the ‘‘ Amer-
ican Standard of Perfection,’’ in which every bird is described so
perfectly that no one has ever attained to it.

Frequently a breeder uses these slightly defective birds with
splendid results.

For instance, in making up his breeding pens he finds a hen
from a long line of almost perfect eae og os that has a defect in
her comb.

He also has a cock bird that has a Patho comb, and so, where
one is weak and the other is strong, he often gets the best results
from such a mating. —

It sometimes happens that utility birds produce equally as per-
fect birds as those of the same blood that are mated for show
purposes, but they are not apt to do this, and the breeder cannot
afford to take any chances, but when it comes to egg production
or breeding fowls for market they are equal to any blue ribbon
chickens of the same strain.

ACCIDENTS IN THE POULTRY YARD.

Accidents will happen to our poultry, and it is often the best
in the flock that are affected.

There are dangers in the barb of the wire fence, in the broken
bottle behind the barn, the tools of the place that are left scat-
tered around, and also in the fighting blood of some of our show
males.

Seldom a season passes without a badly torn comb or wattle,
or a deep cut in the flesh of one of the breeders.

Taken early you can repair the damage so as to have left a
fairly presentable bird.

Cuts and tears need to be cleaned with a milky mixture of
warm water and sulpho-napthol, or any other good remedy on the
market, of which there are many possessing merit.

Clean out the dirt and kill the germ life.

With white fine silk and fine needle sew the parts together;
make each stitch by itself.

Do not try to run the silk from stitch to stitch, but make one
complete stitch, cut your silk and make another.

When the parts are brought together by the needle and silk,
and blood has stopped running, cover the line of the cut with
‘(new skin’’ or collodion. |

~>
BS:

Tue Wright Way; or, Practican HIntTs

‘‘New skin’’ is a drug that may be had at any drug store and
will be found one of the best things of the kind to have handy,
whether to be used for man or beast.

It is put up in bottles from 10 cents up to a dollar.

You will find your first attempt to use the needle and silk some
what a queer proceeding, as it is no easy thing to tie the knot
that will hold and yet not be too tight.

Work with clean hands, new silk, if possible, and a . needle that

has been just held in the flames of a match.

Common cotton thread will answer, but it is not so harmless to
the tissues you sew.

If along the line of a cut pus begins to form, bathe with full
strength hydrogen peroxide.

This will foam, will penetrate the cut and destroy niueh of the
germ life in the wound.

Whenever the line of the cut seems to be healed you should cut
with a fine-pointed scissors each stitch and pull out of the flesh.

A little knowledge of these matters is needed by the owner
of valuable birds as well as animals.

It does not hurt to practice upon common stock, when injured,
if only to acquire the experience that will come in handy when
you have a valuable bird injured.

The poultryman of to-day will have a handy medicine kit
ready for emergencies, particularly if he is any distance removed
from cities where the necessary remedies and drugs are procurable.

It is well to guard ahead, and in many instances it means the
saving of a bird whose value runs us into many dollars.

MOLTING.

Properly speaking, this is not a disease, but a normal process
through which the fowls pass without difficulty.

The natural period of molt will average to occupy 100 days,
and fowls vary as to the time of commencing from early in June
to the latter part of October, and some molt even later than this.

While 100 days is given as about the average time of molting,
some hens molt quicker than others.

The time of hatching has very little to do with the time of
molting.

At the Cornell (N. Y.) station, where a close study was made
of the hen during the molt, it was found that, while some hens
laid some eggs during a portion of the molt, they ceased before
or immediately after regaining their full plumage.

\ .
—— hap cic cia

9 ee deo i

One oF My Licut BrauHMA HENs.
WEIGHT, 10% PounNpDs.

For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE BAcK YARD. 75

We have read this bulletin carefully and noted the rations fed,
the egg records, etc., and it set us to wondering why it is neces-
sary for the hen to cease laying during the molt.

Some tell us that molting is a great strain on the hen, but
it is a natural process, and we do not remember that we ever
lost a hen from the effect of the molt.

It is a strain on them only when they fail to find a sufficient
quantity of the right elements in the food supplied to them.

They are not able to eat a sufficient quantity of food to secure .
the right elements.

When the farm horse renews its coat of hair it is generally
during the period of its hardest labor, and we say a horse is doing
well when it sheds its hair liberally.

This is the case with fowls. —

Those that drop their feathers all at once seem to do better
than those which shed slowly.

If we could supply exactly the right elements in the hen’s feed
we might induce her to lay during or immediately after the molt.

This is what poultry keepers have been trying to do, furnish
material for the growth of feathers, and in doing this they have
increased the protein content of their rations.

This was good so far as it went, but there is far more ash than
protein in feathers.

Protein is necesSary for their growth, but ash is more necessary,
and it must be in liberal supply at this time. —

Naturalists tell us that the material for the formation of
feathers comes from the earth and are in the nature of salts and
flints.

Just what form these elements can be served in has not been
determined.

If the right elements can be given the hen in the form she can
asimilate the right quantity without overeating, there will be no
more drain on the constitution than during other periods of her
existence.

Molting tonics and feeds are advertised which are claimed to
aid the hen in molt quickly and to get to laying, but we are

looking for something better than this.

We want a feed that will bring some eggs during the great
portion of the molt and that will aid the hen to molt quickly.

This ration must be rich in protein and fat, easily digested, so
the hen can handle a large quantity.

76 THE WRIGHT WAY; oR, PRAcTIcAL HINTS

COMMON CHICKEN MITES.

The worst external parasite against which poultrymen and
farmer have to contend is the ‘‘common chicken mite’’ or ‘‘red
chicken mite.’’

There are other species of mites which attack poultry, but they
do much less damage.

This blood-thirsty little pest causes great loss to the poultry
industry of the country by killing adult fowls and little chicks
and cutting down egg production.

The adult female mite lays her eggs, which are elliptical in
shape and about 1-100 of an inch in length, in the cracks and
crevices of the roosts, walls, nests or boxes, usually where there is
manure or other filth. .

Under favorable conditions the eggs will hatch in a few days,

when the young mites are white, oval in shape and have but

six legs.

They feed for a few days upon filth, but attack fowls when
older. .

Every few days the young mite molts or sheds its skin and
increases in size, becoming full grown in about ten days from
birth.

When you see your little chicks looking sleepy fini no apparent
cause, and from all your efforts do not seem to thrive and do well,
you can rest assured that their lives are being sapped out of them
by lice or 1ites.

KEEP INSECTS IN CHECK.

When a hen is removed from the nest you should, by all means,
use a small amount of lard or vaseline on the head and under the
throat of each little chick.

Some of this should also be applied under the wings and the
body of the old hens.

This will keep the insects in check so that the little chicks ean
get a start in life.

If this is not done before you know it they will be weakened to
Such an extent that they will scarcely ever get over it.

I have seen but few chickens in all my life that were left
entirely, alone that did not have more or less lice on them, and
you need not think they are not there.

If you will examine the top of the heads of the little chicks that
have been hovered by hens you will find the top of their heads a
solid mass of white nits.

These should be thoroughly greased, which will kill every one
of them.

2
4
}
. |

For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. U7

If left alone they will make thousands of lice that will torture
the lives of the little chicks, and it should not be neglected.

By taking one teaspoonful of plain lard and adding five drops
of turpentine and ten drops of insurance oil, it makes something
that certainly will remove insects of all kinds.

You should be very careful how to use it, as I have seen so many
chicks killed by it, simply from ignorance.

If you have mites in the boxes or houses where the little chicks
roost at night, you can get rid of them by spraying or sprinkling
with a strong solution of crude carbolic acid or any of the other
antiseptic preparations if used strong enough.

This should be done in the morning; it will be sufficiently dry by
night that it will not injure the little chicks.

These items cannot be overlooked and must be attended to if
you expect to raise a large be cent of May and June hatched
chicks.

ANATOMY OF AN EGG.
THE OVARIUM.

In a laying hen, M. Viele, an eminent anatomist of France, says
may be found, on opening the body, what is termed the ovarium—
a cluster of rudimental eggs, of different sizes, from very minute
points up to shapes of easily-distinguished forms.

These rudimental eggs have as yet no shell or white, these
being exhibited in a different stage of development, but consist
wholly of yolk, on the surface of which the germ of the future
chicken lies.

THE RUDIMENTAL EGG.

When the rudimental egg, still attached to the ovarium, becomes
longer and larger, and arrives at a certain size, either its own
weight or some other efficient cause, detaches it from the cluster
and makes it fall into a sort of funnel, leading to a pipe, which
is called the oviduct. Here the yolk of the egg, hitherto imper-
fectly formed, puts on its mature appearance of a thick yellow
fluid, while the rudimental chick or embryo, lying on the surface
pepaaite to that by which it had been atreched to the ovarium, is
white, and somewhat like paste.

ALBUMEN OF THE EGG.

The white, or albumen of the egg, now becomes diffused around
the yolk, being secreted from the blood vessels of the egg-pipe,
or oviduct in the form of a thin, glassy fluid; this is prevented

78 THE Wricut Way; or, Practica Hints

from mixing with the yolk and the embryo chicken by the thin

membrane which surrounded them before they were detached from ~

the egg-cluster, while it is strengthened by a second and stronger
membrane formed around the first immediately after falling into
the oviduct.

This second membrane, enveloping the yolk of the germ of. the
chicken, is thickest at the two ends, having what is termed bulg-
ings by some and chalazes by anatomists. These bulgings of the
second membrane pass quite through the white at the ends, and
being thus, as it were, embedded in the white, they keep the
inclosed yolk and germ somewhat in a fixed position preventing
them from rolling about within the egg when it is moved.

The white of the egg being thus formed, a third membrane, or,
rather, a double membrane much stronger than either of the first

two, is formed around it, becoming attached to the chalazes of the.

second membrane, and tending still more to keep all the parts in
their relative positions.

‘ PROGRESS OF THE FORMATION.

During the progress of these several formations the egg grad-
ually advances about half way along the oviduct.

It is still, however, destitute of the shell, which begins to be
formed by a process similar to the formation of the shell of a
snail, as soon as the outer layer of the third membrane has been
complete.

When the shell is fully formed the egg continues to advance
along the oviduct till the hen goes to her nest and lays it.

From ill health, or accident, eggs are sometimes excluded from

the oviducts before the shell has begun to be formed, and in this.

state they are called wind eggs.
THE EGG HAS SIX DIFFERENT ENVELOPES.

Reckoning, then, from the shell inward, there are six different
envelopes, of which one only could be detected before the descent
of the egg into the oviduct—the shell; the external of the mem-
brane lining the shell; the internal layer of the same lining; the
white, composed of a thinner liquid on the outside, and a thicker
and more yellowish liquid on the inside; the bulging, or chalazif-
erous membrane; and the proper membrane.

THE AIR-BAG.

One important part of the egg is the air-bag, placed at the
larger end, between the shell and its lining membrane.
This is about the size of the eye of a small bird in new-laid

|

r
he
"a

Sees a eck ae

For Pourttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 79

eggs, but is increased as much as ten or twelve times in the pro-
cess of hatching.

The air-bag is of such great importance to the development of
the chicken—probably by supplying it with a limited atmosphere
of oxygen—that, if the blunt end of an egg be pierced with the
point of the smallest needle the egg cannot be hatched.

DOUBLE-YOLKED EGGS.

Instead of one rudimental egg falling from the ovarium two
may be detached, and will, of course, be inclosed in the same shell,
when the egg will be double-yolked.

The eggs of. a goose have, in some one ances, been known to
contain even three yolks.

If the double-yolked eggs be hatched they will rarely produce
two separate chickens, but, more commonly, monstrosities—chick-
ens with two heads, four legs and the like.

SHELL OF THE EGG.

The shell of the egg, chemically speaking, consists chiefly of
carbonate of lime, similar to chalk, with a small quantity of

_ phosphate of lime and animal mucus.

When burned the animal matter and the carbonic acid gas of
the carbonate of lime are separated; the first being reduced to
ashes, or animal charcoal, while the second is dissipated, leaving
the decarbonized lime mixed with a little phosphate of lime.

WHITE OF THE EGG.

The white of the egg is without taste or smell, of a viscid, glairy
consistence, readily dissolving in water, coagulable by acids by
spirits of wine and by a temperature 165 degrees Fahrenheit.

If it has once been coagulated it is no longer soluble in either
cold or hot water, and acquires a slight insipid taste.

It is composed of 80 parts of water, 1514 parts albumen and 414
parts mucus; besides giving traces of soda, benzoic acid and sul-
phureted hydrogen gas.

The latter, on an egg eaten from a silver spoon, Pe the spoon
a blackish neeol by combining with the silver and forming sul-
phuret of silver.

The white of the egg is a very feeble conductor of heat, retard-
ing its escape, and preventing its entrance to the yolk; a provi-
dential contrivance not merely to prevent speedy fermentation and
corruption, but to arrest the fatal chills which might occur in
hatching, when the mother hen leaves her eggs, from time to time,
in search of food.

80 THe Wricgut Way; or, Practical Hints

Eels and other fish which can live out of water secrete a similar
viscid substance on the surface of their bodies furnished- to them,
doubtless, for the same purpose.

YOLK OF THE EGG.

The yolk has an insipid, bland, oily taste, and when agitated
with water forms a milky aes

If it is long boiled it becomes a granular, friable sab yielding
upon expression a yellow, insipid fixed oil.

It consists, chemically, of water, oil, albumen and gelatine.

In proportion to the quantity of albumen the egg boils hard.

WEIGHT OF EGGS.

The weight of the eggs of the domestic fowl varies materially;
in some breeds averaging 33 ounces per dozen while in others but
1414 ounces.

A fair average weight for a dozen is 2214 ounces.

Yellow, mahogany and salmon-colored eggs are generally sees
than witite ones, containing, as they do, a large quantity of yolk.

These are generally preferred for onlinary, purposes while the
latter, containing an excess of albumen, are preferred for boiling,
ete., for the table.

REQUIRED TIME FOR EGGS TO HATCH.

Chickehs)> 3... 2-.gige. sy Geb wee oos ee 21 days
Dueless oes oe Bs Oo Coe ee i re 28 days
TurkOye. 12.4%. POI ERaee a e 28 days
Geese Ty SLE A ie Bee eee 28 to 30 days
OBDRRETC RS A. AP EUES DARE GRR EIST as: 5 ee 42 days |
Peelowie: io) 23005. Go US Te eee 28 days
Swans, ah UPL T ae, Oe Se ae. oe, 42 days
Canaty birds! Sylar. OES) RAE ae 14 days
Pigeors,*, WO te CRO TO. Oe Oe Sep er 17 days
Partridpess vies hoa tek Pacey «ete te ee 14 days
Gitines fowl]. “202 Oe eC a Se eee 25 days

CAUSES AND EFFECTS.

Wet weather—pip.
Filthy houses—lice.
Musty food—canker.
Overfeeding—apoplexy.
Impure water—cholera.

Oe

For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE BAcKk YARD, StL

High roosts—bumble foot.

Breeding in—consumption.

Damp quarters—diarrhoea,

High feeding—leg weakness.

Close confinement—debility.

Drafts in the hennery—roup.

Want of exercise—black rot.

Exposure to cold—rheumatism.

Unwholesome diet—indigestion,

Disease is a most difficult thing to wrestle with in poultry.

It is far easier to prevent than it is to combat when it obtains
a foothold. ;

The classification of diseases is at best but mere generalization.

Each disease is named as well as may be, and the best known
remedy prescribed, and it may be administered as a rule with

' great effect in the saving of poultry.

Yet an intelligent study of the symptoms of the affected fowls

and comparison of them with those of the different medicines will

greatly aid in the work.
I do not intend to go into details of the variuos poultry diseases,

- but to consider the cause of some of the most common ones.

Contagious disease, such as roupe, cholera, chickenpox, etce.,
must have a starting point, and unless removed will cause much

‘trouble.

To prevent disease’our aim should be to look well after the
removal of all sources at which it germinates and multiplies,
which would include filth, dampness, improper ventilation and
improper feeding, droppings, straw litter of any kind and parasites,
all of which breed contagious diseases. This should all be removed
as it contaminates the general surrounding of your chickens.

Proper sanitary measures applied will destroy any germ that
might be lurking around.

MY OWN METHOD.

I will state in as plain a manner as possible my method of keep--

ing a yard in a sanitary condition.

It may at first seem difficult and tedious, but once you acquire
this system you will find it far easier than to combat with the
different diseases that poultry is subject to.

The dropping board must be cleaned every morning and must
also have a coat of kreso once a month. .

All nest material burned and new replaced once every month.

e

82 THe Wricut Way; or, PracticaL HIntTs

The litter used for scratching purposes should be changed every
month. |

The henhouse must be whitewashed, the wash having four ounces
of pure carbolic acid to the gallon added, and every nook and

corner given its share of attention. This should be done in the

months of May, September and January.

If poultry be confined in small yards, the yards must be cleaned
once a day to remove the droppings and other filth. |

The water supply must be fresh and clean, the feeding troughs
scalded, and last but not least, the feed we intend for them to eat
kept clean and wholesome.

It behooves us to place in their reach such suitable material as
will keep the whole digestive tract in operation.

Green food should be given; it is a stimulant.

Charcoal is a purifier; it stimulates digestion and removes impu-
rities from the fowl’s system that otherwise would develop disease.
These things are conducive to good health and productiveness.

There are a number of different diseases, but in all of them the
above rules will work out.

Follow my instructions, use sanitary methods, and success will be

yours.

SPROUTED OATS AS GREEN FOOD.

Sprouted oats as green food has proved its ‘Value and has steadily
grown in favor until there is not a large or modern poultry plant
in the United States that is not using sprouted oats. Especially
are they essential to the back yard breeder who has a limited
space for his fowls, and where green food is not accessible at
all times.

We all know that both young and old chickens, to do their best,
should have a certain amount of green food. It is absolutely
necessary to keep their systems in good healthy condition.

Precaution should be used, however, when sprouting oats in
summer, for unless they are kept in a shady place and also kept
well drained, they will become moldy and prove very injurious
to the fowls.

The sprouting of oats has always been considered a labor in
itself on account of the way in which it has been handled. Gen-
erally ‘‘sprouted oats’’ stories advise about twice as much work
as is really necessary for the good of the product.

First, the selecting of the oats should be considered. New heavy
oats should be used and they should be planted at intervals so as
to keep some on hand at all times. This is, of course, according to
the number of fowls to be fed.

~

Licht BRAHMA COCKEREL.
WEIGHT, 101% PounNps.

For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 85

I have found the easiest and cheapest way to sprout oats is to
use ordinary boxes, such as can be had at the corner grocery. The
diameter of the box has nothing to do with the oats, but one shouid
_be careful not to have the depth more than six to eight inches.

Perforated bottoms are essential. The boxes should be kept in
warm, shady places, set on four bricks, allowing air to pass
beneath. This slight elevation forms a drain and keeps the oats
from becoming sour or moldy at the bottom.

After the seed oats have been well soaked in very warm water
overnight, spread smoothly so as to cover the bottom of the boxes
to a depth of about one inch. No soil is used and when the oats
sprout and grow to a height of about three inches, the entire
contents of the box may be used.

Cover the boxes well with burlaps, water them thoroughly every
morning, and when the oats reach a height of one inch the burlaps
which have heretofore been covering them and which have been
folded to about two or four ply, is removed and a wooden cover
made of some light material is used instead.

When ready to feed, cut in pieces about the size of a brick,
roots and all, and one brick is sufficient for six hens and one male.
If this is carried on in a systematic manner, green food will be
plentiful at all times. One must necessarily take into considera-
tion, however, the number of fowls to be fed, the time it takes for
the oats to grow to the desired height, the room it will take, ete.

This is a simple way of keeping green food and eliminates all
the trouble which it took formerly to keep this excellent food on
hand. It is a better egg producer and very much cheaper than
any vegetable on the market. It answers the purpose of the back
yard breeder better than anything he can handle.

POULTRY MANURE WORTH SAVING—PRE-
SERVATIVES, HOWEVER, NEEDED.

Fresh poultry manure has approximately twice the fertilizing
value of cattle manure, if a comparison of the two products is
based upon their nitrogen content. The nitrogenous compounds
contained in poultry manure, however, are very unstable and de-
compose readily into ammonia and volatile ammonius compounds.
Consequently, unless proper care is taken, large quantities of
nitrogen, which might be used for fertilizing, are lost.

Several methods have been suggested for retaining this nitrogen.
They consist in mixing with the excrement either an absorbing
substance or an acid compound which will chemically combine
with the ammonia as fats are formed.

86 THe WricgHt Way; or, PracticaL Hints

Experience has shown that poultry manure, untreated, as well
as that mixed with sawdust, lost half of its nitrogen in the course
of six months. Where the manure was stored with half of its
weight of gypsum (land plaster) it lost a third, while that mixed
with an equal weight of gypsum and about one-fifth of its weight
of sawdust retained all of the original nitrogen. Equally good
results were obtained by using from one-third to one-fourth of
the weight of the manure of either kainite or acid phosphate.

From the standpoint of the mechanical condition, the mixture
with land plaster gives the least desirable product, although the
addition of sawdust aids papas in preventing the formation
of hard cakes.

When the manure is to be kept only a few days before apply-
ing, good results may be obtained with dry loam or peat as an
absorbent,

The absorbent used should be sprinkled daily, in the required
quantity, on the floor of the henhouse; from which, in combination
with the excrement, it may be removed when desired.

The difficulties experienced in spreading poultry manure on
account of its sticky consistency, may be obviated by mixing
with loam, peat or common stable manure. For economical use
it should be spread in relatively smaller amounts than other
manures.

The admixture of lime or wood ashes is not advised, since
decomposition is sufficiently rapid without their use.

It should be borne in mind that each of the absorbents sug-
gested is in itself of value as a fertilizer; the least valuable being
sawdust. Consequently, the requirements of the soil should
govern to some extent the choice of the absorbent used.

KEEP POULTRY RECORD.

One of the greatest needs of most poultry keepers is a definite
record of expenditures and receipts.

In too few cases does the owner of a poultry flock actually
know whether his fowls have been an expense to him or have
paid a profit.

This is perhaps truer in regard to poultry than with most other
branches of animal industry, because of the fact that both ex-
penditures and receipts are spread over the entire year and are
individually small; that a large part of the product is used at
home, and that the poultry keeping is incidental to the other
farm work,

Have a note book and use it.

Keep a record of expenditures and receipts.

PSPS A eins ee tT ae fy es ©

BRAHMA PULLETS,

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For Pouttry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 89

EGG TESTS.

A good egg will sink in water.

Stale eggs are glassy and smooth of shell.

A fresh egg has a lime-like surface to its shell.

The boiled eggs which adhere to the shell are fresh laid.

Eggs packed in bran for a long time smell and taste musty.

After an egg has laid a day or more the shell comes off easily
when boiled.

Thin shells are caused by a lack of gravel, etc., among the hens
laying. ,

A boiled egg which is done will dry quickly on the shell when
taken from the kettle. ~

Eggs which have been packed in lime look stained and show
the action of the lime on the surface.

If an egg is clean and golden in appearance when held to the
light it is good; if dark or spotted it is bad.

The badness of an egg can sometimes be told by shaking near
the holder’s ear, but the test is a dangerous one.

With the aid of the hands, a piece of paper rolled in funnel
Shape and held toward the light, the human eye can look through
an egg, shell and all.

DISEASES OF POULTRY.

Administering medicine too often is a profitless expense. There
is little economy in an attempt to doctor sick fowls; as a labor
of love and a matter of humanity, the case may be different, and
we often like to cure or lessen the sufferings of a favorite. The
following symptoms of the different diseases will perhaps help in
the prompt detection of the difficulty or disease which is troubling
a fowl, with remedies for the same, in the hope that, should
occasion require, benefit may be derived therefrom.

APOPLEXY.

The bursting of a blood vessel in the head. The bird staggers
and falls; its breath comes heavy and short. The sudden pressure
of the blood in the brain prostrates the fowl and it is insensible
or dead, lying on its side with comb and wattles purple in hue.
The cause may result from any number of~conditions, including
straining in running or in laying, overheated or gorging with
food. Incurable. |

90 THe WricgHt Way; or, PRacTIcAL HINTS

BLACK ROT.

The symptoms of this disease are blackening of the comb, resem-

bling mortification, swelling of the legs and feet, and general
wasting of system. It can only be cured in the earlier stages by

frequent doses of castor-oil, to keep up purging; at the same time

giving freely warm and nourishing food. Bad food and unhealthy
surroundings seem to be the cause,

BREAK DOWN.

Abdomen hangs down at rear from excess of fat, fatty degen-
eration or disorder of the oviduct. The muscles of the abdomen
becomes so weakened that it hangs down behind; the best plan,
if in good flesh, is to use the fowl for the table. Take warning
and feed the rest of the flock less starchy and fatty foods.

BUMBLE FOOT,

It is often the result of high roost, the feet being injured when
jumping therefrom. Imbedding of pebble in sole of foot. The
hurt part swells, becomes inflamed, pus forms; it should, as soon
as it softens, be cut open. See that no pus remains in it, then
wash clean, in a lotion of one part Calendula tincture to five parts
water, and bind up foot as neatly as possible and keep bandage
wet with the lotion; keep the fowl on clean straw.

CANKER.

Due to colds, catarrh, roup, exposure to cold, dampness, drafts,
foulness and dirty food. White or yellow patches on the mem-
brane lining of the mouth or throat, which makes swallowing
dificult. The treatment is to dip a feather in tincture of iron
and apply to patches morning and evening. Yards and houses
should be kept in a sanitary condition.

CHICKEN POX.

It is known by yellowish pimples on the head, comb and wat-
tles, loss of sight, weakness, paleness. From close observation I
have learned that this disease usually makes its appearance in the
Summer, during the rainy season. The hot sunshine coming out
after a shower causes a hot vapor to arise from the earth whica
seems to cause the blood of the fowl to become overheated. About
the best remedy I have tried is kreso and lard, equal parts. First,
remove the scabs, this leaves a bright red tissue exposed, which
will bleed, then apply the remedy; this will dry up the sore.
When it appears in a flock there is no necessity for isolatiny the

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For PouttrRy PROFITS IN THE BACK YARD. 91

birds. A good way to check the severities of the disease is to put
a tablet of permanganate of potash in the drinking water. A one-
grain tablet to one gallon of water is sufficient.

CHOLERA.

At the present day the word ‘‘cholera’’ is applied to an epidemic
which, while varying somewhat in different parts of the country,
is always accompanied by violent diarrhoea. Cause mostly from
dirty surroundings and filthy water. Very contagious. The
symptoms include looseness of the bowels, yellow or greenish dis-
charge, drooping wings, contracted neck, weakness, drowsiness,
great thirst, comb becomes dark, exhaustion and speedy death.
The rapid form is fatal in one or two days. Chronte cholera may
last in a flock several weeks. Destroy the birds and the conta-
gion. The yards, runs and houses should be sprayed thoroughly
with a good disinfectant.

CONSUMPTION.

There is a cough, the fowl seems to eat well, yet becomes
emaciated. The breathing may be somewhat rasping and there is
a paleness of the comb and wattles. Cause, bad heredity or re-
sulting from a cold which is allowed to run on without care.
‘‘Tneurable’’ is the general verdict.

CROP BOUND.

Impaction and enlargement of the crop from gorging or stopping.
If the crop feels hard and stone-like to the touch, it will be neces-
sary to make and incision with a sharp knife through the skin and
upper part of the crop and loosen the packed mass with a blunt
instrument, and remove it. Close the incision by taking a stitch
or two. The bird should then be fed warm, soft food for two or
three days, such as mashed boiled potatoes, and ete. Give them
plenty of exercise in the open air and they will rapidly recover
from the disease. There are other remedies, but the above has
proven beneficial and I have never lost a fowl when taken in time
and the disease not allowed to go too far.

DIARRHOEA.

Looseness of the bowels. The cause is damp, cold weather;
cold on the stomach; brooding in damp, cold houses; poor and
irregular feeding and filthy drink. The following is an excellent
remedy. Give sick fowls a teaspoonful of castor oil containing
from three to five drops of turpentine; also with this ten grains
sulphate of iron (copperas) should be dissolved daily in one

92 THE WricHt Way; or, Practica, Hints

gallon of drinking water and kept before them. Charcoal and —
grit should be kept before them always. The houses should be
kept clean and dry. Feed well-balanced rations. |

EGG BOUND,

To relieve a hen that is egg-bound take a common tail feather
of the hen and strip it until near the tip, and then dip it in sweet
oil, and let it remain until it becomes thoroughly saturated, then
pass the feather up the egg passage till it meets the egg, which
you will find will relieve the hen at once and enable her to proceed
with her duties. If she experience any further difficulty, repeat
the operation, getting the feather well filled with oil whenever
you make an application. Do not attempt to help nature in the
way of pressure, for in that case the egg may become broken and
prove fatal to the hen. After you have made the application, as —
directed, let nature take its course. : |

EGG EATING.

Egg eating is a vice and not a disease. The best remedy is to
try. and catch the ring leader and kill her; there is usually no
further trouble. Provide plenty of nest material, plenty of ground
oyster shells. The cause of this vice is probably a craving for
more lime and is usually started by one or two hens.

FEATHER EATING.

To prevent fowls eating their feathers give them animal food,
such as fresh meat, two or three times a week; burnt bones,
oyster shells, charcoal, together with clean fresh water and strictly
Sanitary yards and houses. If this does not produce the desired
effect, wring their necks, for nothing else will prove a cure.

GAPS.

Due to irritation of the windpipe by parasites. It chiefly
attacks young fowls before their feathers have grown. The gen-
eral symptoms of the disease, and those most. noticeable, are the
continual gaping, coughing, dullness, inactivity, loss of appetite
and sneezing of the fowls attacked. It is due to the presence of
a small red worm in the windpipe. Whether this worm is bred
without the chick, or is a spontaneous generation resulting from
physical causes, is an open question. Among the more popular —
external treatments may be mentioned the taking of a small
feather, stripping it, except at the point, dipping it in turpentine
or kerosene and running it down the throat, after having bent
the feathered part over so that it will go down with the grain

For PouutrRy PROFITS IN THE BACK YARD. 93

of the feather. There are many other treatments recommended by
various authorities, such as flour of sulphur, crude camphor, ete.,
but the trouble with them all is that there is always danger of
killing the chick along with the worm.

; LEG WEAKNESS.

Staggering gait, flapping of wings to aid in walking, moving
along on the hocks, sitting down to eat. This disease occurs in
highly-fed, fast-growing chickens. Brooder chicks may show this—
sometimes because of the warm floors or poorly-balanced rations.
_ Injuries to the limb or rheumatism may account for the difficulty
in some cases. Give them animal food once a day; also give them
every day three or four grains of ammonico-citrate or iron dis-
solved in water and mixed with soft feed. Rub the joints
frequently and fully with a solution of equal parts of arnica and
water. Keep from the wet grass.

LICE.

There is only one remedy for lice, and that is work. It is a
ease of ‘‘eternal vigilance is the price of peace.’’ The houses
should be thoroughly sprayed with whitewash; to each gallon add
four ounces of carbolic acid. This should be done as often as
possible. Each and every fowl should be dusted with a good
quality of. lice powder, once every week. The easiest way 1s to
prevent their getting a start, and, as with many poultry diseases,
prevention is far better than a cure.

PIP.

The pip is occasioned by the forming of a dry, horny scale upon
the tongue, due to breathing through the mouth because of other
diseases. The beak becomes yellow at the base, the plumage
becomes ruffled, the bird mopes and pines, the appetite gradually
declines'to extinction, and at length it dies, completely worn out
by fever and starvation. Cause, improper feeding, dampness,
filthy and poorly ventilated houses. Stop all grain feed for a
short time, but you can give it a little boiled mashed potato,
mixed well with butter and black pepper. If the fowl will not
eat, make a pill of this and force the fowl to swallow it. Also
give five grains of quinine for grown fowls, and less according
to size of chickens.

| ROUP.

Roup is the bane of chicken raisers and chickens. The disease
is characterized by a foul breath, offensive discharges from the
nostrils, inflamed and swollen head, cankerous-looking throat and

94 THE Wricut Way; or, PracticaL Hints

mouth, a frothy substance in the inner corner of the eye; the
lids swell, and, in severe case, the eyeball is entirely concealed,
and the fave unable to see or feed, suffers from great depression
and sinks rapidly, the feited smell being unbearable. This dis-
ease attacks fowls especially when they are subjected to extremes
of heat and cold, dampness, foulness, filthiness and neglect. When
the first symptoms of roup appear the following remedies have
been used by me and have proven beneficial. Young fowls having
roup in its first stage should be given a one- grain quinine capsule
three times a day. Get a small syringe and syringe each nostril
and the slit in the top of the mouth with kerosene oil twice a day;
then take half an ounce of sulphate of iron and one ounce of

cayenne pepper in fine power, mix carefully a teaspoonful of

these powders with butter, and divide into ten parts; give one

part once a day. If the disease is stubborn and the fowl, instead -

of improving continues to get worse, it is useless to waste further
time; it should be destroyed, for, even if cured of an aggravated
case, the bird would not be fit to use as a breeder. When fully
matured fowls or laying hens contract the roup, it can be eured
in the first and second stage. The quinine should be increased to

two grains three times a day. The keresene oil should be used

three times a day, and the last remedy should be given one part
twice a day. Matured fowls when treated as above, and with
good care and attention after being cured, will be as useful to
the breeder as before. In the last stage of roup the axe is the
surest cure. Burn the dead birds at once and thoroughly fumigate
all houses and disinfect all yards and runs with some good germi-

cide. When the symptoms of roup is noticed among fowls the |

Sick bird should be isolated at once.

SORE HEAD.

Warts or bumps form on the head. In severe cases the eyes
close and their mouth closes up tight, which prevents them from
eating, resulting in death. What causes it no one knows. There
“are some whom claim it is the blood; in fact, every poultry
breeder has his ‘‘theory.’’ When one or two birds are affected
they should be isolated. When the disease gets a good hold on a
flock of chickens it is almost a matter of impossibilify to arrest
its ravages. When taken in time the following remedies will
prove beneficial: Bathe their heads, especially their mouth and
eyes with warm water. Be sure to remove all dirt and seabs; then
apply to the sore places a weak solution of kreso or ecreoline,
which can be procured at any druggist. They should be fed a
mash of some kind, to which add a little pulverized charcoal and

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For PouttTry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 97

sulphur. Feed once a day. Put a tablespoonful of Epsom salts
in a gallon of water. Give them no other water to drink for a
few days. When a few fowls are affected it is not very hard to
attend to them, but when a large flock has this disease it is a
very hard matter.

VERTIGO.

Fowls affected with this disease may be observed to run round
in a circle, slight convulsions, throwing of the head up and back
or to one side, is evidently caused by undue determination of the
blood to the head. Fat or over-fed fowls are mostly subject to it.
Holding the head of the fowl under a stream of cold water.for a
short time immediately arrests the disease; and a dose of any
aperient, such as calomel, jalap, or castor oil, removes the tendency
to the complaint,

WORMS.

Internal parasites. When any fowl is known by observation to
be affected with worms it should be given santonine. Continue
until good health is restored. Raw ftesh is generally the cause of
worms, but not always. |

SINGLE-COMB RHODE ISLAND REDS AND
LIGHT BRAHMAS.

I have selected the above breeds simply for the reason that
there is more money in them for me than many of the other
breeds. After carefully selecting and breeding them for nearly
four years, I find they will lay more eggs in a year than any

‘fowl I have ever kept. For either eggs or meat it would be

exceedingly hard to beat them.

THEIR QUALITIES.

They grow quickly, making fine broilers in from eight to ten
weeks, and, as they have no dark pin feathers, make very desir-
able dressed poultry. As a table fowl they cannot be surpassed.
They are of delicious flavor, and under good conditions they will
begin laying at from six to seven months old. As mothers and
setters they cannot be excelled. They are gentle and easily
yarded. They know not summer from winter, laying straight
through, keeping your egg basket filled when eggs are high.

98 THE WricHt WAY; OR, PRACTICAL Hints

THE ASIATIC EGG.

When Uncle Isaac writes about the Brahma and Cochin, he
handles something that no man in America knows as much about.
He bred Brahmas, if not Cochins, longer than any man in these
United States, if not in the world. ‘He ig a very old man, the
father of the score card and one of the founders of the American
Poultry Association. During the nearly sixty years he has bred
poultry has held on to the Asiatic, notwithstanding, first and last,
he has bred a majority of the varieties found in the standard a
few years ago. He has always had the courage of his convictions,
and one could always rely upon anything he would say or write,
We elip the following article, which he wrote for the Feather:

‘‘The fact is that an Asiatic egg, from Brahmas or Cochins,
has a greater influence to thicken a custard, so much so that five
of their eggs will make an equal amount of custard of the same
consistency as will seven Leghorn eggs. Drop a Leghorn egg or
a white Wyandotte egg into hot water, then a Brahma or Cochin
egg, and see which comes out in a solid round condition. You will
then have the reason why most people prefer brown-shelled eggs
over white ones. Their asserted preference for Brahma eggs has
overshadowed all other brown-shelled eggs for the reason that
five Brahma eggs will thicken as much custard as will seven Leg-
horn eggs. The Rhode Island Red, which lays a brown-shell egg,
has a corresponding effect. One has only to drop into hot water

Leghorns, Wyandottes or Hamburg eggs with the Brahma eggs ©

to gee none come out in that round compact form as does the

Brahma. While the Rhode Island Reds approaches the Brahma,
it is because of its (the Reds) ancestry to the Cochins.

* €*Tt is useless to deny that Brahma eggs are no better than

white-shell eggs when they can demand 10°cents more per dozen

from special customers over eggs from any other breed. Those.

who are used to Brahma eggs desire no nl when Brahma eggs
are to be had.

‘“The nearest to a capon for excellence is a Brahma cockerel
kept in celibacy from the time it is five months old until 10 months
old. As long as a Brahma is growing its carcass is soft, juicy
and tender, and T defy any epicure to distinguish it from a eapon.

‘*We have sold these cockerels at 10 months old, weighing 12
pounds in March, that had been kept all winter in celibacy and
had them equally appreciated by patrons who buy capons, to tell
us that no man can tell the difference in eating them.

“‘The Brahma will make more pounds of poultry meat for the

food it consumes than any other breed, and will remain tender to

a greater age than will any other breed.

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For PouttTry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 99 |

‘*When it comes down for all purposes. of poultry, eggs and

.exhibition birds, the Brahma is the most valuable breed on earth.

It lays more dollars’ worth of eggs in a year owing to the fact

that it lays seven-tenths of its yearly product in the five hen

months of the year, when eggs sell for the very highest price.’
—FELCH, Southern Poultryman.

PROPER CARE OF DUCKS.

Any calculation as to the return to be expected by ‘those who
keep ducks depends entirely upon a suitable locality. Marshy
places along a stream furnish many bettles and shell fish, and if
the young ducks are allowed a run of a yard like that the cost
of feeding them will be greatly reduced. In order to make them
profitable, they will require more care than chickens, and the
breeding is attended with more expense in a yard that is not
supplied with running water, than where it has such a convenience. —

| SUITABLE CLIMATE. %

In the South we can raise ducks every month in the year. They
endure heat better than other fowls and cold never affects them.
With great care, that requires long experience, we can grow from
the hatch a broiler in six or eight weeks that will weigh one and
a quarter to one and a half pounds. It takes a little more feed
than it does for a chicken, but far less trouble. The feeding and

‘Management of ducks is almost directly opposite to the feeding

and management of chickens. The humble accommodation of a
mere shed offers quite good enough housing. The roof should be
water-tight, and the ground of the shed pretty dry, to render it
a good place for the sitters; as, if the nest be very damp, the eggs

are apt to break, however quiet the sitter may be.

FEEDING DUCKS.

Ducks are very hardy and easy to feed; there is very little
difference in the matter of feeding or in the composition of the
ration. For the first five days bread crumbs, hard-boiled eggs
chopped fine, and a little fine sand mixed with water or milk.
Feed four times a day. From five to twenty days cornmeal,
erushed oats, wheat bran, a little beef scraps and green food.
From twenty to forty days cornmeal, wheat bran, boiled potatoes,
a little beef scraps, fine sand and green food, mix with water to
a crumbly state and feed four times a day. From forty to sixty
days’ old, wheat, coarse sand or grit should be added to the above,
mix with water and feed four times a day. Ducks, old and young,

100 THe Wricot Way; or, PRacticaL HINTs

should have alittle litter for a bed—straw, hay or anything which
is dry will do. The eggs do not keep as well as hen eggs, so they’
_ should be set as fresh as possible.

DUCK POINTERS.

Four weeks is the period incubation. Ordinarily ducks will
average from 180 to 200 eggs per year. No class of poultry will
devour so much or feed so greedy as a duck. They do not seratch
but will pick every bug out of a garden. Animal food is much
better food for ducklings than vegetables. They have no disease,
no roup, canker or sore head, scaly legs or wry tails. Ducklings
must be sheltered from the rain and sun for the first four or five
weeks. Ducks are by no means so pugnacious and jealous -of
new-comers as common fowls uniformly are. They do not fly; a
three-foot wire fence will keep them anywhere. To raise the best
and most vigorous ducks the male should not be related to the
females, and one should be kept for every two or three ducks.
After hatching keep, in their pens until the dews are off and
during cold, stormy and heavy rains. Keep a shallow dish of fresh
water near by them, which should be changed three times a day.

RAISING TURKEYS.

That the turkey has some singular peculiarities in its nature
cannot well be denied. Among them may be mentioned its un-
common tenderness when young, and its unqualified hardness when
full grown.

Nothing in the poultry yard is so aeditler. delicate and so easily
destroyed when first hatched as a turkey. It is easily chilled,
past recovery, by cold or storms, and yet, when full grown, it.
will endure some of the most severe and pelting storms of mid-
winter. In the North they will roost high up in the trees during
a.fierce ‘‘northeaster’’ with the snow and ice collecting upon their
heads, apparently unconcerned aBout shelter or protection.

DIFFERENT VARIETIES.

In a short article like this, it is impossible to give a description
of the different varieties of turkeys. The variety that we breed
is that which was found in this part of America, changed, perhaps,
by domestication or crossing with the breeds farther South. The
wild turkey found to-day in our swamps is just as it was origin-
ally. The turkey that is now bred in the South is much improved
in color and in vigor by a cross on the wild turkey; the young
are stronger and more easily raised.

a

S

NOF{ wAdooug aH Tf,

—

For Pouuttry PROFITS IN THE Back YarpD. 103

Young turkeys are the most helpless of all our poultry. On
large farms no single branch in the poultry department offers
greater possipilities than turkey raising. They are great bug and

Insect exterminators, besides picking up a great deal of weed

seed. All this is an advantage to the farmer, to say nothing of
the good substantial returns that will come in about Thanksgiv-
ing and Christmas times. They are some trouble, of course,
especially when young.

They are but Very little trouble, however, after the first six

weeks, or two months is past. During this time they need the

proper care, but are little trouble as a rule.

HATCHING TURKEYS.

A larger percent of the eggs will hatch when from good, vigor-
ous stock than with hen eggs. When 24 hours old, young turkeys
should be removed to a good, roomy coop, with dry board floor.
They should be kept in this for four or five days, when they can
be let out in a pen made of 1x12 boards, about 12 feet long. The
hen can be given her liberty if need be, as she will not leave her
charge very far. |

The first feed should be good sharp grit, and nothing else for
12 hours. The following feed should consist of hard-boiled eggs,
chopped fine with onion tops and lettuce leaves, peppered with
black pepper and a very slight trace of salt. They are fed this
way for about a week, one egg to 20 chicks.

They can then be gradually switched off to boiled rice and stale
bread soaked in milk, always lightly peppered with black pepper.
When six to eight weeks old they should be fed on mixed grain
and allowed the run of the fields, but always fed something at
roosting time to induce them to come home while young.

RAIN INJURIOUS.

While young they should be kept out of the rain and heavy
dew, as they cannot stand much wet at this age. The greatest
enemies to young and growing poultry are the mites and lice.
For these pests a good lice powder should be used, dusting the
young when taken from the nest and once a week afterward until
they are three or four months old. It should be well dusted into
and under the wings, where the insects usually stick and hatch

out. As they get older a very little lard rubbed under the wings

and on top of the head will go a long way towards cleaning
them out.

If at any time ating their growing age you have trouble, look
for lice and mites under the wings and in the fluffy part of the
body. They will cause you more trouble than anything else.

104 THe Wricut Way; oR, PRACTICAL Hints

A turkey roosting-house should be inclosed with wire , netting on
all sides, as a turkey must have freedom of air at all times. They
can be kept in a house of this kind each morning while young
until the dew is off. At other times until you are ready to let
them out and feed.

The roosting-house should be scraped out once a day by all
means and sand or fine dust sprinkled over the ground after-
wards. A little air-slacked lime is good about once a week. A

turkey will stand less abuse than a chicken when confined to a
house and yard; for that reason we urge upon all the importance

of strict sanitary conditions.

MARKET TIME.

When fall comes and killing times approaches, they can be

materially increased in weight by feeding quite heavy of cracked
corn once a day, with corn meal and wheat middling, half and
half, the other meal; mixed with either sweet or sour milk to a
stiff mash, and slightly salted and peppered. Turkeys so fed are
elegant in flesh, both in texture and flavor, and will command the
highest prices.

The bronze is the leading turkey for market in this country,
although there is no valid reason why the white Holland is not
equally as good for the same purpose. Turkey eggs can be shipped
a long distance and will hatch well if properly packed.

TURKEY POINTERS.

If there are two toms in the flock and they don’t agree, shut
one up one day and the other the next.

The worst enemies of young turkeys, besides lice, are istorna’
worms,

The raising of turkeys should be one of the duties of our farm
wives.

It usually takes from 30 to 32 days for the eggs to hatch.

The young, at the moment of their birth, give no sign of seek-
ing their food.

The mother never proves a good provider for them; she never
scratches for her young like the hen.

The turkey hen that ranges far from the barn is likely to steal
her nest a long way from home.

Make friends with your turkeys, so far as you can, and it will »

aid you considerable in caring for them.
Be sure that the turkeys have enough, but not too much, food
during breeding season; just enough to keep them in good flesh.
The old turkey always proceeds leisurely with her flock, in-

en

For Pouutry PROFITS IN THE BAcKk YARD. 105

tuitively knowing when one is tired, and as speedily setting down
to let it rest.

Water should be placed in shallow dishes or old tin plates near
the coop, so that the young can satisfy their thirst whenever
inclined.

~

GEESE—HOW TO MANAGE THEM.

This is one branch of poultry culture rarely touched by me,
simply because there are so few engaged in it that I thought it
hardly worth while mentioning.

Geese have never been bred -in the South to-any great extent.

There are many reasons for this.

For unlike the duck, which can be bred with or without access
to water, the goose finds water absolutely essential to its existence,

They are more easily raised than all other poultry, and then,
being almost self-supporting, when brought to market are almost
all profit.

This is true only where one has a pond, a running, wooded
brook or swamp land.

If certain conditions are met geese require very little care.

HATCHING THE EGGS.

Hens are generally used to hatch the first geese eggs—that is,
those that are set very early in the season—and for this purpose
large hens, such as Brahmas or Langshans, are generally preferred.

Five to seven eggs, according to the size of the hen, are enough.

A goose is usually given 11 eggs for a setting, although a very
large one might cover 13.

The gander should be left with the geese during incubation.

They will remain near the nest of their favorite and cour-
ageously defend her from any intrusion.

Children should not be allowed to approach them at such a
time, as they are capable of inflicting serious injury.

ae ean be successfully hatched in incubators, but it is sadbike
practiced.

The nests for hens sitting on goose eggs should be made in a
shed or house where a reasonable mild and. uniform temperature
can be maintained.

After the eggs have been incubated for about seven to ten
days they can be tested and infertile ones taken out.

The fertile ones can then be all placed under a part of the
hens, if several have been set at one time, and fresh eggs ess
under ‘the others.

106 Tue Wricut Way; or, PracticaL Hints

The shells and lining membrane of goose eggs are thicker and
tougher than those of hen eggs, and care has to be exercised that
they do not become too dry.

Sprinkling the ground will then help to kere the air of the

place moist.

Eggs under a goose seldom nied attention, as more or less
moisture is brought to the nest when the goose bathes, as she will
at intervals, if allowed the opportunity.

It is well to place food and water near the nest of the sitting
goose at hatching time, so that she will be less likely to leave
her nest before all the goslings are hatched.

The fertile eggs usually hatch at the end of 28 or 30 days, but

a longer time is occasionally required.
Eggs have been hatched on the fortieth day of incubation.

FEEDING GOSLINGS.

If hatched before the grass starts in the spring, their care is
rather a difficult matter. ;

They require to be kept indoors and should be provided with
some kind of green food, as chopped lettuce, onion tops or cabbage.

As a rule, however, it is best to have the first goslings hatched
about the time grass begins to grow in the spring and the weather
becomes sufficiently mild to allow the young gostines to be put
out of doors.

When hatched they do not require feeding ei they are 24 to.

36 hours old.

The goose will take excellent care of her young brood and need ~ |

not be disturbed until time to feed them.

Some chicken hens, however, become restless on a nest and
are liable to kill the young goslings by treading on them.

In such cases it is well to give the goslings to a more quiet hen,
or perhaps remove them to a lined box or basket by the kitchen
fire, where they can remain during the day, to be returned to
the hen at night.

A good food for young goslings is scalded, finely-cracked corn,
with a little bran mixed with it. It should not be wet and sticky,
but just enough water should be added. to make the dough have
a crumbly consistency.

At the end of 24 to 36 hours they may be removed from the
nest and fed.

Water should be provided in a shallow dish, in which a few
pebbles have been placed, or some other provision made to pre-
vent the young goslings from getting into the water and getting
the soft down with which they are covered wet, thereby becom
ing chilled. ee

1 iio Sige ay hie ae ly Lena lly aetna “agp aint dais

Tae aaa,

i ne

For Pouttry PRoFITs IN THE Back YARD. 107

- Sharp sand, saturated with water, should be provided in another
shallow dish, where, they can help themselves at any time.
While small they should be fed four or five times a day, and

when ten days old a little food may be put into the building

where they are shut up at night.
Grass is the natural food of goslings, and where the supply is
abundant less grain food is required.

SHOULD BE PROTECTED.

After the goslings are ten days old the goose and her flock can
be allowed to roam at will in a pasture with short grass, although
it is better that the goslings do not have an opportunity to swim,
as they are liable to become chilled by the cold water.

They should be protected from storms or from sudden showers.

Goslings, while small, are covered with down, which seems to
have little power to shed water, and soon become wet. The
goslings become chilled and soon die unless thoroughly dried and

warmed, -

They should also be confined at night.

The box or building in which they are confined should be pro-
vided with a sufficient supply of cut straw or hay to cover the
floor, and it should be frequently changed.

e the weather becomes warm they ean be allowed free access
to water, in which they can swim if they choose.

As soon as the quill feathers have developed upon their backs
the goslings will be out of danger from injury through getting
wet in showers or storms.

The important points in the successful rearing of goslings are:
Not to overcrowd when penned together; to protect from severe
storms or showers; from the excessive heat of the sun by day and
from damp floors by night.

HOW TO TELL SEX IN GEESE.

It is not an easy thing to tell the sex in geese.

When they are six or seven months old one can usually tell by
observation the goose from the gander.

The male, in most cases, grows larger than the female.

The female has a deeper body, slimmer neck and smaller head.

The call of the gander is long, loud and shrill, while that of
the goose is merely an answer to it.

t is a good plan to divide the flock, part on one side of the
fence and part on the other, when trying to distinguish‘the sex,
when you can distinguish most of the ganders by their calls.

Never look for a curled feather in their tails, or other outside
marks, for there are none.

108 THE WricHT WAY; oR, PRAacTicAL Hints

The male is bolder and vicious, and if cornered in some small
place will show fight to protect his mate.
If you have a large flock it would be well to look them up this

spring and make sure that you have plenty of geese and not too

many ganders before the laying season.

THE GUINEA FOWL.

The guinea hen has the credit.of being a good layer, but her
eggs are not in much demand commercially, owing to the wild,
gamey flavor they possess. However, there is a profit in turning
their eggs into broilers or roasting ‘fowls, for which there is a
ready sale.

The guinea is a great roamer, and does not thrive in confine-

ment. The laying season begins in April and continues until

October, during which time hens have been known to lay as many

as ten dozen eggs. It is advisable not to set the hen before June.

It requires four weeks for the hen to hatch the eggs.

The hen hides her nest in some obscure place, which can ba
detected by the shrill cry of the hen as she leaves the nest.
Generally all the hens of the flock lay in the same place.

A peculiar thing in the nature of the guinea is that she at once
knows if human hands have removed any of her eggs, and upon
such discovery she will quickly abandon the spot and seek another.
The proper way is to remove the eggs by means of a stick, rolling
them out of the nest before picking them up. Even if the eggs
are taken out nearly every day in this way she will not detect
anything wrong.

There are two varieties of guineas—the pearl and the white.
The latter is of a less wild nature, and more apt to remain about
home. It is said that a cross hetween ‘the pearl and the white
varieties produces a carcass that very closely resembles that of
the English grouse. Rightly cooked the meat of even an old bird
will be tender and delicious, while that of the young bird-is
unsurpassed.

When dressed the guinea presents a round, plump body, good-
sized breast and small bones.

If sexes are equal guineas pair. Their laying hours generally
are between 10 o’clock in the morning and 2 o’clock in the
afternoon.

The young are delicate until well feathered. The cock bird
cares for the young the same as does the hen, guarding them by
day and hovering them by night.

In size the male is somewhat larger than the female, more

aggressive, and has a different call, sounding something like

“ar , P % Nl a> aap 94 , . ot eo = ; , ali
7 eee Re eS eal a ie eee ae

“ /
GPE sa sf woe %

‘daLVal], INV GaLV IOS] Wy Alavany ay

wiv

SASVASIC] CALOVYLNOD) AAV] AO NOIWIGNOD AO LNG A

r

ILH

SIIG Wy LVH

L SIMO. AVAH A

ound ee — eee ee

2 r g : is “4 - . . * ; .
: 6 f
¢ ‘ < . 7
e < 4 fee ; ot aell -
a ‘ J ‘ : A
i - a : .
7 2 . . f e we
’ ‘ es 5 + 4 .
¢ 4 . 7 we x a
, re aa ’ : Fy ps
7 bic ’ ye ss
, . « . ~
5 4
*. . - *
. ‘
. ; .
; f
s 2. - .
.
. . 2

wn a a - ~ 2

NE Ppt FOS a oh a FH te ae Mis

For PouttTry PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 111

‘<Tick! Tick!’’ while that of the female is more like ‘‘Come
back! Come back!’’

Guineas can be safely allowed in the garden, as they do not
scratch like other fowls and are great insect destroyers.

PIGEON BREEDING.

The breeding of pigeons, like the breeding of any other form
of lower life, must be accompanied by eare, attention, thoughtful
consideration and intelligence. Squabs are bred profitable in con-
nection with poultry or as a separate specialty. In squab raising
there are few losses to figure. The birds are strong and rugged,
and thrive in any part of the United States or Canada, in any
climate and at all seasons. Squabs are young pigeons. In the
market you will find not the squabs of the common kind of pigeons
which you see flying about in the city and country (although the
ease with which these pick up a living under adverse circum-
stances, is a good illustration of their hardy qualities), but the
squabs of the Homer and other fine pigeons that produce fastest,
the best young for the table and are used almost invariably by
the intelligent and successful squab breeders. Common pigeons
are cheap and easily found, but the Homer, Carneaux, Maltese,
etc., are worth from $2 to $3 a pair because the squabs they pro-
duce are marketable, while the squabs of common pigeons are
small and skinny, and worth as squabs only about $1 or $1.50 a
dozen. It is important for-the beginner to get this distinction
firmly fixed in mind.

MATING AND BREEDING.

In breeding squabs for the market, you do not allow the parent
birds to fly at random over the neighborhood, but keep them con-
fined by wire netting in a fly pen. This is attached to the squab
house. In starting a flock, one male to every female pigeon is
needed. You cannot have one male for several females. In the
Squab house are two nest for each pair of birds, and the nest are
arranged in boxes about a foot square. In each box is set a nest
hole for the nest to be built in. The breeding pairs build their own
nest with hay, straw, pine needles, twigs, ete. which is placed in
a pile in the squab house. As soon as the nest is built the male
bird begins to ‘‘drive’’ the female—he is anxious that she deposits
the eggs. You will see him hustling her about all over the squab
house and the flying pen, and he is contented only when she is
perched on the nest. She lays two eggs, then she and the male
take turns sitting. She sits on the eggs at night until about 10
o’clock in the morning, then: he comes and sits on them until
evening, when she returns and he goes away for a rest.

112 THe WRIGHT Way; oR, PRAcTICAL HINTS

FEEDING.

The young break out of the shell in seventeen days after the
eggs are laid. You do not feed the squabs at all; the old birds
attend to that. The old birds fill their crop with food, and then
fly to the nest and fill the bills of the little ones from their crops;
in three to four weeks they fill the nest so there is no room for the
breeding pigeons, which begin setting and laying eggs again in the
other nest box of the pair. The feed for pigeons consists of wheat,
cracked corn, kaffir corn, Canada peas, hempseed, millet, barley
and buckwheat may be fed (if in localities where these grains are
easily obtainable), grit, oyster shells and salt, all cheap and
easily obtained. No other food is given, and there is no mechani-
cal preparation of the food. Each locality has its own grains
readily adaptable to pigeons. Bread crumbs may be’fed. On the
ground at the end of the flying pen should be placed a pan of
water, renewed every day. At sunrise each day the pigeons go
there and take a bath. They do not roll in the dirt—simply splash
in the water, which keeps their plumage clean and in order. In
pigeon breeding there is no need of new blood every year.

Os a

For Poutrry Prorirs IN THE BAck YARD, 113

POULTRY POINTERS.

The man or woman who has no patience and willingness to work,
and expects everything to be smooth sailing, will make a failure
out of the poultry business.

The man or woman who has patience and willingness to work,
and don’t expect everything to be smooth sailing, will make a
success out of the poultry business.

It is hopeless to expect to achieve success in poultry work unless
the poultry keeper knows his fowls; this means study, observation
and thought, together with insight.

If you are beginning to raise poultry, and have a little bad luck
in the start, never feel discouraged; remember that ‘‘grit’’ is as
good for man or woman as it is for a fowl. - :

If you contemplate purchasing and are not thoroughly familiar
with the breed you want, it is better to pay a little more and buy
guaranteed stock from a reputable breeder.

Cleanliness is the most important factor in the successful raising
of poultry,-and it doesn’t consist altogether in the removal of
dirt. It includes also plenty of fresh air.

The poultryman’s capital is alive. A flock of hens will produce
eggs for three or more seasons, and then you can sell them for all
they cost in the food market of any town.

Plenty of feed, fresh water, and clean, dry yards are the three
things necessary in raising broilers, and these can be supplied on
almost any city lot.

If the hens have a tendency to become fat and lazy make the
litter deeper so they will be obliged to work hard. It is careless
practice to feed your flocks twice as much as they can eat.

The only way you can succeed in the poultry business is by
treating your customers right and make every order bring others.
Let this be your slogan.

114 Tue Wricut Way; or, Practicat Hints

One of the most important points to be observed in setting eggs

for hatching is to correctly proportion the number. Their size

and the size of the hen should be considered.

Heavily fed pullets should be kept bus sy to keep them in good

order and to prevent their becoming too fat before starting to lay.

After laying is established ag 2 will not become too fat to hurt
them.

Broodiness is nature’s signal that the hen needs rest and recu-
peration. Therefore, let the hen hatch and rear a brood of chicks.
Do not try to get ahead of nature.

When buying eggs for hatching, be gure that they are from
strong, healthy, vigorous stock, otherwise the results will be a lot
of stragglers, without a spark of chicken-vim in them.

Do not attempt to compound formulas with the idea of foreing
your hens to lay. Good laying strains are produced through c¢are-
ful breeding and not by some chemical process.

So many make a failure of the poultry business because they
start on too large a Secale and, not knowing anything about the
business, they are sure to fail. The best way to start is slow

but sure.

—

Table seraps are the very best egg food that can be found, and
one ordinary family wastes enough such things to keep one male
and eight hens, which can be happy in a yard 10 by 25 feet.

Those of you who are inclined to sleep late in the morning and
think chickens take care of themselves, take my advice. Keep
out of the poultry business.

You cannot ‘‘make a living’’ from the day you step into a farm
and begin poultry work.. There will probably be some return from
the first day if you go to work right. Between a start of that
kind, however, and a living, there is a long journey.

epee, Ce Qe

For PouxttRy PROFITS IN THE Back YARD. 115

A FEW OF THE MANY REASONS WHY
I SUCCEED.

First—Because I love my birds and the poultry business.

Second—I use’ common sense. I am following my own system.

Third—Beeause I am willing to work, and I give my birds every
eare and attention that is required in my business.

Fourth—Because I advertise summer and winter, and by doing
so I keep before the poultry public. This is essential.

Fifth—Because I use a very good quality of stationery. I
answer all inquiries as promptly as possible. This is of great
importance. .

Sixth—Because I give my customers full value in return for
their money, and I am always ready to make amends, especially
when the fault is mine.

Seventh—Beeause I entertain my visitors, and I am always will-
ing to answer any question about chickens that I can, and find it
a pleasure to do So.

Eighth—Because I give my chickens the best of all foods.
Charcoal, grit and cracked oyster shell is kept before them all the
time. Fresh running water always.

Ninth—Because I keep them as free from lice as I possibly can.
I whitewash the houses and keep their surroundings sweet. and
clean, and I am not afraid to use lice powder.

Bach, but not least, I get up every morning just as the birds
leave their roost, and by eight o’clock my yards are fresh and
clean and in Peaeelans sanitary condition.

In my judgment all women can qualify to the above. Now, my
sisters, get a hustle on and prove to the Adams that we Eves can
raise poultry as successfully as they can. Do as I am doing and
earn independent money.

~~

a

INDEX.

NE Se TEP ee a cies AES CE CE Wes Wate AED canted. Bde. hig 4
ES, gS it ah We oie ec EE US Geena Ch A ee Cee ele ek es 5
Sunshine Is Like Medicine for Chicks R54 os pb hee. ORs te A. es
ne * Wee I 78S, se Ge he cee Beak ds ek ova ws 6
Summer, ....... SPR oe I RE, Die ee peids ee. aaa § 7
I CRB 5635 hrs AG's vas wera ee WG wae eee ee PRK 6 he ee 8
oy BES ae aes Se © ee te ne er ney ears Sait Cae 9
Symptoms, .. ..... Ns cal Ue etal ehide ac] oe wv epteen ae etek ot 10
rrr Severent im the South... ...... ... 0 Sskss elie ea elle TS

Sig] Maes SONS SS a eh fe cae ee ee es ere 2 ee oe 11

Rep, SACRE MERE MUD OR 53s, en 1a be nie ws egy Ras peu tbicke cee CMR Bad: . ap AES 11
TS I ee re a ae nr rene. er errr. 12
ee Se a See nr Lo, Sidls Reeth ous Stew supaneed & « kieorsbgate! . dake 12
Weed-Grown Back Lot (Illustration).................... 0008 13
Beginners Expect Too Muceh..................000c cece eceeeees 15
Ups and Downs in the Poultry Business...................... 15
IE A RMR Pe Se whe Sa OP oNs. a5 ve Mate won bie Ao shecela Mid a gin a’ o 17

Neen ee CREE Re ore oe es dd On 4s te Beeb elg De ee EEN © hare Ae. 3 |

Meer Pendtuction - ... .:. -. .. -s. << Se eee eee ete 17

Broilers and Friers...... ewes ee er oS ee ee ee 18
EE MBSE ow oo ne es on wg 2 ne as oles wwe aaa eteldis bes 18
EI PA CE ge nia co RED wo eke se aes oes “meee « © 18
Rhode Island Breeding Pens (Illustration)................... 19
EE as a aie em Romy, © omen SR nae ells arcuate Ss, ceake eA att oe «lb nas 21
OS OY ee OR an ene ee aan eee ene ae ee 21
EE eo eee eee ae ern ar ii na a nr er 22
ESE Doe 9c Be 7 Se ey ee ee ee en eee ere, Ee Sede hg Oe 23

pT 2) ey a eae aaa Tey eee Fah es sek au neeety Sh Ue gM a ‘Se 23

Siege OE OURS, og ee ated ch rs Sipe s wececeey io 23
AE eM MR og ke cmceia oe wa es ae ia die wo a a one hemes ere
OS Say a Oe a ee ea a a a eee Tee ee a a eee ee 2 oe 25
Ramee gamed “RR WAEUWUR GW 6 oo nae i iw in wpe nieieee © Bi me e yineiep eee 27
Awnings for Shading Fowls............. ccc ccc ence ee neccees 28
0 ee are ee ee ee eee sale a ad el 28
ee MIMI ee cae nw oie o's oe Sie elk Soin 8 Weslo Mae ysis eum wi ee» 29
Brooding Constructions ........... 2.0 ee ee eee eee newt eee eenee 31

ET FO re ene alain woah dine’ e = 5)e Geman tants. 0b >. 0 (4,2 31
Fertile Eggs ......... TEE Re Ee TS, SR RSA, eye re by 3
a ee a eee ee ee eee Te ee 32

Running an Incubator...... EAR er re ee 32

ee | eer ae ae ee a eee ae ae ae ee [rece etteeceeees 33

Brow + tae ee a an ches ere F Wise in’ ecg im os ume rae « ae ania

Barren © ie ese) 6 2 ee fips Sis ais ES a ere a ier atbutites oats 34

Turning the HES... .. cc ce ce crereecrecerecesesvcccesers 34

II INDEX.

Hatehing With Hens: -. . 22.525 532. 7 eee pee 0 Wahine
Ss. Cc. R. I. Cockere] (Illustration)........... See, Jn ace pe 35
Selection Of -WSGSis sts: «tee eee i bot ee. 2
Gentle. Hens. . Important... ~07.7, 4k in oe eet we 37
The NG@St a6... ee oe he of ein) sa "ace 5 alana 37
Bee hivice sores oe eee wetseel. 38
To Discourage a -Broody Hen; ...,2.-....2. 2 38
Raising and -Brooding . ChieksS.....0./6060000 0... 62s bee ee 38
Preparing .for..Chicks: ::37:-': 25537 icel See eS
One of My Red Puillets (Illustration)..............eccceecees 39
Feeding: Young--Chicks.. 0.4247. 2s es » «5 ee
Changes Which an Egg Undergoes in Hatching............... 42
Ditterent: Changed 62.0 24 6424225 2258 {hee = ena 6f aoe pee - 42
Hirst: Voluntary Motion, = .ifis 20° vith Se 42
Promising YOung Red Pullet (Illustration)................... 43 -
The Seventh Day...... i. 5 ys Ste ot ata a te 2 can 9s Ee
Kiyes. Appear sire 8 cos 25. see See oo ory ee 45
Vitality That Eggs Contain........ Va ee te De ee 46
Toundation: Stocks} i: eine Se Se ees bo ek ee aa
Light .Brahma -Pens (ThHustration): .<... ...0 . .G.. < « ecm 015 eee 47
One Variety More Profitable Than Many...................... 53
Another View of Light Brahma Breeding Pens (Illustration).. 51
Single- Variety se ah « pcre sale sre =p. 66. enone 54
A Decided: Advantage os oe at. ore 0 nei 54
A. Simple: PH Gstra fron vis fee oe ae te ene © 2 0-6 she aoe ee 54
Kieeding Growing Pallets: . :. 2535500) vies ss 0+ = + =e ee . 55
Diseases ‘Prevented ©: :. 4 2N.i 9h. 1s 3 bn a oe ee 55
Karly .Maturlty : sonst a We ane 5 ie eS 9 + =e
FOOGNSUDBIY | 48 Sos SABE ee ee ae 56
Charcoal ‘and- Grits... Pesce «aa ed Sw Eee aie wih ee o «ae
Two Pens of Reds and Two of Brahmas (Tllustration)........ 57
Care of Breeding Stock: .235..6 050000201954 Li a ee 59
Proper Food and Feeding : 20:66) 5. 700. << v0 cee . 59
Greer: OO 6 4h ek a ek ee ae hee eee ee Pere Fe 59
Wet: Mash “fii as esse oe ei 60
One Reason’ for Weak’ Chickens: .:::..0....000.+ 00000 e eee .
Sate: ‘WMeoedine ios 550 dus et Ss ae eee cee oe . 62
Some Reasons for Failures....... eb ad Cae FS cae aie ne 63
Weck’ -of Systems... 65. es eee. SS sities 0 ee . —_—s
The’ Practical’ Man i264 i rigs crews es oe eee Preyer 64
Huwee: aud” Peter: 663 PS Os ss Ooi ee = «6 9 < ae 65
Polite’ to Customere::::: cia Ue ei ee =e at
Ruli: ‘Walue 52.2600 05 bo be eee ee ese 65
Infertile.. Wews~ Pee as el ke sie iene ee
Do' Not . Misr@present. o.oo i eos ee See cence ae 66
No Profit in Cheap Poultry........ Sere eer. Ss coe ae pee 66
Light Brahma Cock Bird (Tllustration)..........c cece en eeeee 67
Fitting Birds for the Show Room..... 2... 2... cece e ee eeeeeee oc.
What Is Utility ChickKems. .. 1... eee ee wee ener ewan 70

Krequently Gives Splendid Results....... Sood [eee eeee cee

INDEX. Iil

eee ie ee WOR, coe ion npc tases a cece wre he, SPIRE 71
a ee ire aly Sn Wha wana Qin Welk am ws ye SA LL PPE, 329 12
a. as eee eee Bene Ciilustration)... .c.iiiei J. oye ie... 73
ne ar WN sn os ax ok aw een SOP Od OR ee 76
. ei: ert B00) CONDOMS os sb eee bw wns oOo dee bs LY... 76
nna ON Re MOM ce oe a akdlereewworv aed de oa eee ® 77
dig sae 2a Sey oo Re yg ro 2. LARS BG DS ee ce:
rien 0 CHE | WS oe once SACRED. . oenrots | raw 77
Preewess Othe Wormalion. 3. 0. bk ee... AWS... 7§

ame 22> Has Six Different Envelopes fers iires. oly... 78
ae 3: Se yy eRe e Cea, 5 eh PE a 78
Double-Yolked Lat) Es Ln: age SN ee ORE ig il | hy a ls a 79

Pee tRE CLG OE a acre ws x chal SEK. OE, PON 79
Rs Se A nn an acarena ee OO pe a 79

eR US FI a. Saye ack ah Geng hia ober ack ED oc ee. 80
aD a WB Oa go wnt av eine cme DL ata Se Ms Ces oe SC. 80
mewueron rime for Hees toraeteh) 72s. 227). 2... 80
a I ORO Kn os nce. aint ws dark aorw Metal arate SOR es Ee 80
Dae ne EON ores es ee we mre cw ER Oe EY 2D. se 81

The Value of Sprouted Oats as Green Food.................... 82
ewe Brahma Cockerel. (Tllustration)..0iF320F eb Ao... 83
ment Spammer. Wileerkls SR WRMS. «2.5. oon cence celine wie cs WOE ee be ee 85
eM UIP ONE oso face salew nav ie gee ene dia a eres’, Ne ORE ots wees 86
One of My Light Brahma Pullets (Illustration).......... Roe
Ee de Ne 6 gh a wc oa ar Wonka pi wee aan oe nie mein be ee 89
eS = a a ee PhS e chain ee ee Wan tes 89
Co ET ga Sc Se SSE mg ae oe a a 89
oe Je 2 ge eet et ge ee RG oe a oe 90
Seo) Oe Cg a a ee ea Pe eg oe ees ee 90
eS eRe Be ee Pear er Oe ee Coe ener Oe saa 90
en Pay Ree rtd So te Rn Secu Led we gp si dom wtecuvs Db 90
eRe SE EUR 0 tbe crate. a be REGIS Lia ete > sm Se 90
Pa orate Pee, pierre i ae, ee aiinck ad a! aie ie Sa oS SG ERR ow on a le 91
COLLET NE Sar See we awe ee ae e Pepe * eee ne eee 91

Crop Bound Re ee ante ei i ee a SAE in es wicks 6 ete Mee aA 91
CR 2 err pe eh a er ae A 91

UO ESE oS SR eg pe STs Sees oe See Cn Soe Seren coca 92

OSS IES, RS ope oie ica an et Oe eae ce. 92
REECE eel CA ytee ate cha ee rates Oa wa we Re SA 92
eee ee Bay LE RS ae eg ea 92

Lee Weakness... .. 2.005 eee ee eect eect eens 93

Oe eS has ee Ge ot ee eG, ae oe ee er ee” 93

Ey OR Se i ee ie in can hati hem, gm 93
ER. a ew ee oer ete See eee ook Eee ee 93
ORS a a, Se rei ees or Ls a 94
Incubating Room (Illustration). ......... eee eee ee eee eee eee 95
WeErtiees sf... sae: RI OPS cook mate aorta es Wee ee Ee «aie 97

i eS ee Se ee 97
Single Comb Rhode Island Reds and Brahmas................ 97
Their Qualities “anes sss 2-2 - es RE Oe a CaN sy a 97

A ae ere

ee INDEX.

Bhe Amistic WO e so. nis cccaialiiecia sug ee Al eae 2 eee 98
Proper Care of. Dr mche icici. c ic csie pie tehate we wale la an SO 99
‘Suitable Climate. .ofvas rier Ae eee ee 99
Feeding: -DYWGiis 5 o..cscc isso: peer ate letete "ela ta ee «eee ee 99
Dick. Pointers) 2 0. ca vs bl ee Peeve 8b ese one 100
Whonfestinng “Wwe ais on abies. 0 sine edahe cain saa ose eee io eet ate 100
| Different. Varieties 60 os cessed 4s Gh Bee ve Oe ee 100
Breoder Heuse . (Hilustration). ...........5ev)sbibyee wee oe eee 101
Hatching Turkeys ....65.) ii sSNA Cs os ee 103
Rain Enguriows e-acckad,.esewt A Ke Se ee ++ ae
PRATHER ian aio cinscunsin Hate aver qrov ese wherarahate "aie ke eva, 1 ee 104
Turkey -<POPMtCTS © ou pecs sno mo wn o Sect lm © Sah ole 104
Geese—How to Manage Them.............6..+-.02000e-- i S. e
Hatching the. WEES. oi anes eset ta oe ee *. «105
Weeding GoOSlLIN SS. wise vc vieiasessiene-s-s-0 AW ie Se 106
Should Be | PrOCeCtEed i ovecicccciccecsesesesn-o wel we Wa Wn Ab, oe
How to Tell Sex in Geese..............00.008- TAIL a 107
ENnee Granbnern RWG ooo coon oovn op bi ece nie eee nie atyen 00 alee a es: 108
Sanitarium (U1uUStration) | ....0:..0.6..cece-¥ senate dR De id eee 109
Pigeon Breeding... .. diced. sews bas oe UES OT 111
Mating and Breeding...6...es068. Tied oN Se. Ae |
PEGAING. ooo icatscee ane eyes 22 ease Sek SS IO, A 112
Poultry Pointers 2.0.0... ete tenet eee tte aee +. STS
A Few Reasons Why I Succ€@d.. 0.0.6.0... 66 cc eee eee eee eens 114

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