Copyright N°_ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT: , ‘ f Nae tN Ks ' ae ue eh) y At ast 4 Cea Uni bali yal Lies en an 41 } f ; era ey ea) TaN men 1 +h Fy EN) Be Wty sir Lhe tite ‘ Neoeean tt : wi ef a eT Als SJUv[q YA pozyUWVUIQ PAvVA YM APD & UL JULOFT 90¥4}0) YARD AND GARDEN A Book of Practical Information for the Amateur Gardener in City, Town or Suburb By TARKINGTON BAKER Illustrated with Photographs and Diagrams INDIANAPOLIS THE BOBBS-MERRILL COMPANY PUBLISHERS CopyRricHutT 1908 THE Bospsps-MERRILL COMPANY FEBRUARY eset jEIBEARY of GONGHES Two Gcogies Receives | MAR 21-1908 Kcr Gopyirges cnu'y War 2 1408 iowa he a v | 2°cbeY Ad PRESS OF BRAUNWORTH & CO. BOOKBINDERS AND PRINTERS BROOKLYN,.N. Y. CONTENTS CHAPTER I THe Yarp II PLanniInG THE GARDEN - {II How To Pian - 2 , IV Lawns . : : : : VMONAINER: - 3 é : : : VI AwnnvalLs : : : ‘ VII Harpy PERENNIALS VIII Some PorunarR PERENNIALS IX Butsous- anp TuBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS X Some PorutarR Harpy Buss XI Irises anD TENDER BuLBs . AIT SHRUES : - e ° Sib Tene. : ; . ° XIV Sor anp FERTILIZERS. . XV_ INSECTs AND DISEASES XVI THE INDOOR WiInTER Wtnpow GARDEN XVII 43 Hedge of privet as a city yard boundary : : tay Sun-dial in corner of city lawn ; ; ‘ é ah * 50 Hedge of climbing roses defining limit of lawn é hp y | Colony of iris established in lawn . : , ; wk Unsightly corner of yard ornamented with plants . : » Garden seat at end of small city lawn ; é a yeas | Wild grape from woods in city yard bth) a : Pe, Flowers of the clematis. : : : - : Ba 3 City residence covered with woodbine .. ‘ . 99 Flowers of the fragrant honeysuckle : ‘ : . 8 Annual phlox . j : : ; : . : 2 00 Single and double zinnias : ‘ : ; : 2 502 Snapdragon ; i : : ; ; ; : »~ 305 China aster : : ‘ : : : ‘ 3 = 105 Transplanting seedlings to ‘‘thumb-pots”’ A ‘ . LOT Stocks ; : ; ‘ ; . : ; : ae 8). Shirley poppies . z : . ] s 210 Sweet peas : ; ; at Petunias , , ; ; ; ae LIST OF ILLUSTRA TIONS— Continued PAGE Pot marigold : ; : : : : - - «7406 Sowing seeds of annuals. ' : : - - es Plants in porch box combined with hardy ferns to make solid wall of foliage and flower . : : : . aa Porch boxes filled with plants suitable for eastern exposure : = : : : , : : - 124 Porch box newly started but with plants in bloom . a LG Effective grouping of single plants . , , : «Ae Porch boxes exposed to full sunlight : : : mee 8 Meadow Sweet . : : : : ; : : » les Catchfly : : ‘ ‘ : - : : : Paes | Achillea A - . . 2 : : ; - Ae Columbine ‘ : ‘ x 5 5 A - 139 Globe Flower . c s c E . - « at Swamp rose : 5 ° , ‘ . . - » 143 Oriental poppy . ; - s ° . . . - 145 Stoke’s aster : 5 ° : ° . ° : . 147 Bee Balm . Z “ ° . . . ° . . 148 Balloon Flower . ; A . . : . - . 148 Larkspur . - : - 5 . ° ° . >, 150 Golden Marguerite . 5 . : . . . . 152 Sweet William . : : : : : : ‘ . 154 False Dragon-head . : ° ° . . . . 154 Spirsea : 5 : , “ A ° ‘ « lS Golden Glow . * “ ; 2 ° ° : . bs Boltonia : : 5 : e - . : ‘ . 159 Monkshood : : : : . ‘ : : «dot Foxglove. : : : ° ; . : : » S6L Chrysanthemum, ‘‘Shasta Daisy” . . : : «163 Veronica. : : : : : . , : « G5 Plantain lily : : : a - : . : Pie! 6 Yellow Day lily . : : ; - : : ; . 166 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued PAGE Transplanting hardy perennials : ‘ ‘ A 3: GE Narcissus days in a city yard garden ; : : 7 koe May-flowering tulips on Decoration Day . ; ; . 174 Dahlia ‘ ; : : ‘ ‘ F ‘ : pe 1G Canna ‘ : ; = : ; : ‘ ‘ 2.196 Flowers of tuberous-rooted begonia . : ; . Lis Flower of the canna . : : : : : F 161 Torch lily . - ; ; : : : : : - 185 Canada lily : : - ; ° i . ‘ » 285 Kramer’s lily : ; : 2 5 : = : - 187 Single dahlias. : : ‘ . ° : : «_ 489 Madonna lily : : : : “ ; - : « 491 Erythronium ? : : ° - : ; : « 186 Poet’s narcissus . : ‘ ; ‘ ; = : . 196 Trumpet varieties of narcissus . x ° 2 «ago Hyacinths . : 3 : : - : . : . 201 Parrot tulips : ; : : ° ° . ; » 203 May-flowering tulips . : . ° . : : -. 203 Gladiolus. é : elias ee a : - : - 206 Montbretia - - ° . . = ° : . 206 Tiger lily . e : ° . ° . ° : 5 ed Thunbergian lily : - . ° 5 . 216 Japanese iris : : ° . . ° ; : ook Spanish iris : ee , : . * : .. 225 White Siberianiris . - ° : . : : . 230 German iris : : : Z ° ° : ; . 230 Siberian iris : ; ; “ : - ; - . 234 English iris ; ; : - - ° ; : . 234 Bridal Wreath . ? : ‘ : ° : ; . 241 Hydrangea laden with flowers . - : P : . 244 Blossom of the tree peony in early spring - d . 247 Shrubbery walk in small city yard . ‘ ‘ j . 249 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued Flowers of the Mountain Laure] Hardy azalea in bloom Rhododendron in bloom Flowers of the tall-growing Bird Cherry Planting a tree Tree that has never been pruned Trees ruined by ignorant pruner Fruit trees for shade and fruit in city yard Effective grouping of evergreen trees Decorative value of the haw Colony of Sedum spectabile in poor soil Blue Day lily growing in soil which the owner considered ‘‘impossible’’ Spraying easily done in the average re ann Typical chewing insect (Cecropia moth) San José scale Oyster shell scale Fall web-worm Scurfy scale Work of the catalpa aes oe Paris daisies , Root growth of narcissus Azalea Indica in bloom Ornamental-foliaged begonia Foliage plants suitable for a window garden Paper white narcissus Hyacinths, cyclamen and lily, products of a sunny window garden Freesias in bloom f Group of plants suitable for shaded window Geraniums in bloom indoors in mid-winter Tender hydrangea LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued PAGE Lace fern. 3 é , ; P ; : : . 304 The Maidenhair fern : ; ; ‘ ; ; . 300 Rose—General Jacqueminot. r Z . : . 3809 Border of hardy ferns as screen for foundation : - 300 Ostrich ferns in narrow border : - P : - 366 Double peony. A ; : : ‘ : ; . 309 Single peonies. ‘ : : : : ; : ee Flowers of the tree peony . : . : j ‘ . 312 Hardy phlox : : . : : : : : » 310 Wild Sweet William . : : ° : - : «ott YARD AND GARDEN YARD AND GARDEN CEAPR TE: THE YARD The owner of a city or town lot, of a subur- ban home or of a country estate is usually interested in affairs which he considers more important, or at least more practical, than the abstract principles of gardening, no matter in what form they are presented or what applica- tion is to be made of them. His immediate re- quirement, if his attention be directed at all toward the subject, is practice and not theory. He wants planting and not principle; his main desire is to employ the speediest and safest process to make his yard, his grounds or his estate—if we can distinguish property sizes by these common though vague terms—as harmo- niously and effectively beautiful as_ trees, shrubs, plants and vines and his financial re- sources will permit. In a sense he is justified and, in any event, 1 2 YARD AND GARDEN he is but responding to a common and natural impulse, to obtain for himself that which has pleased or interested him. He is impatient of theory and eager for results. Disquisitions on the fundamental laws of gardening or land- seaping are tedious if not perplexing and, in his judgment, of little value. His conclusion may be hasty but to some extent it is entirely eorrect. There are no hard and fast rules for gardening and particularly for the art of orna- mental gardening, whether it be conducted on large or small scale, on a country estate or the back-yard of a city lot. There are some principles best remembered but even they are not without innumerable va- riation in application. In gardening, as in house building, individual taste, temper and aspirations are reflected and each garden, con- sequently, is a law unto itself. Still, under- neath this disclosure of the gardener’s own nature and individuality there are broad princi- ples, applicable to all and the foundation .of all. They are simple, obvious and natural. The beginner can make fair progress with noth- ing more than an instinctive knowledge of them. Any day in the year, in any wood or meadow, on the banks of any stream, even by the coun- THE YARD Uspiey [VULIOg OJUT P IWAVAUOZT) PABA AYIQ Fo sovdg [peug + YARD AND GARDEN try roadside, any place where natural cond1- tions remain in some measure undisturbed, every principle necessary for the most elab- orate gardening processes is disclosed by na- ture itself. If the beginner will bear this in mind and at the same time remember that there is no space too confined for the application of nature’s prin- ciples, he will have mastered all the fundamen- tal law that it is necessary for him to master. With this as a basis, he will quickly observe that ornamental gardening, whethen it be by the formal method, the natural method or a combination of the two, is only a simple appli- eation of this common law. He may himself choose to copy the Italian garden, devise some modification of the English wall garden, elab- orate the miniature gardens of Japan or con- tent himself with duplicating and exalting nature in natural gardening, but whichever course he elects to pursue he will find the prin- ciples the same. GARDENING The owner of a home, whether it be on exten- sive grounds or set on a narrow and shaliow city lot, need not hesitate, therefore, to begin THE YARD i) gardeninge—and by gardening is meant the lay- ing out and cultivation of gardens, whether they be large or small, a square yard or an acre, open or inclosed, a part of an estate or all of it. The first important consideration to him is the understanding of what can be done with his own home grounds. It is important to com- prehend the value of improving them, even where the area is so small as to seem to pre- elude all opportunity for such effort. Most of us realize what paint will do for an old house, but few of us realize what a well-kept lawn or well-planted yard will do. Yet there are a num- ber of examples. There is, for instance, the case of the owner of a city home who was anxious to dispose of it. The house was old and not attractive | and interested inquirers were few. The owner painted the house but still no sale was effected. Next, upon the suggestion of a friend who knew the value of shrubs and vines and flow- ers, the.yard was planted at a cost con- siderably less than the painting had entailed; hedges were substituted for ugly division fences and a general transformation was effected in - less than a season’s time. The owner then found not only that there were a number of 6 YARD AND GARDEN purchasers eager for the property but, more- over, that he no longer desired to sell. This experience is not as exceptional as it might at first thought appear. As a matter of fact very few persons are found nowadays who deny that value, of the sort estimable in dollars and cents, as well as beauty, can be added to a home by the judicious planting of the yard. No matter how imposing a house may be or how perfect and harmonious the lines of its architecture, or how well its interior may be fin- ished and furnished, all suffer when the yard is neglected. On the other hand, though the house itself be old and weather-worn, it can be made to assume an attractive appearance if it be sur- rounded by trees, vines, shrubs and flowers, carefully selected, wisely situated, patiently cultivated. These facts are no longer questioned, if, in- deed, doubt of a serious nature was ever op- posed to them. All of us have learned the value of a city beautiful, and most of us admit the value of a home beautiful. If we do not contribute to the one or disregard the other, it is not for lack of knowledge but rather be- cause of indifference. But even this indiffer- ence is gradually disappearing and to-day we THE YARD if have owners of houses, factories and other buildings of a semi-public character, beautify- ing their grounds by the liberal employment of nature’s materials. VALUE OF EXAMPLE Moreover, we have examples to encourage us; we have city parks and streets or avenues, city yards, suburban homes and country estates planted or landscaped. And these are not without valuable influence, for it seldom hap- pens that the residents of a neighborhood sur- rounding a place, large or small, that has been effectively planted, lag far behind the pioneer. Before his advent, or before his operations were begun, it might be that lawns were un- kempt and flowers were unknown, but it does not require more than a season or two for the one improvement to arouse others to action and for the movement thus started to gain in extent until it amply justifies all the faith placed in the power of example by such bodies as civic improvement societies. Planting, from whatever cause it may spring, once begun is not quickly abandoned. Garden- ing begets gardening—the more one plants the more one desires to plant. But the fascination 8 YARD AND GARDEN of the pursuit is not alone sufficient to account for this. In addition to exercising that uni- versally instinctive desire to raise things, to see them grow and thrive on the care and attention one bestows on them, no field of en- deavor, as has already been suggested, prom- ises a broader scope for the expression of an individual’s taste, temper and _ aspirations. We seek to have the houses we build express something of our own personality, but, were we only aware of it, the yard presents a far more favorable field for such effort. Who can not, for instance, judge of the intellectual and moral, as well as of the sanitary status of a community, of a neighborhood, or of the owner of a private dwelling by its external conditions? | Nothing can be more incongruous than the littered back-yard of an imposing city resi- dence. Within dwell persons who are fond of comfort, if not of luxury, intelligent and edu- eated, and it seems wholly impossible that they would not avail themselves of the opportunity to add so much enjoyment for themselves and for others by improving the ground at their disposal, instead of making it a place for the deposit of old barrels, boxes, tin cans, and other rubbish. The only possible argument against THE YARD 9 rinning the Improvement of a City Back-Yard e The Same Yard Three Months Later 10 YARD AND GARDEN such improvement, and, indeed, the argument that is most frequently advanced, is the lack of space. But it is not space that is wanting, but —taste, temper and aspiration. Even in a space that is not more than twenty feet square, there is sufficient ground for an attractive gar- den. | How much more opportunity is there then for that owner of a city lot of the usual size upon which he has erected a house of the usual dimensions? Instead of confining his efforts to the making of a small garden he has, com- paratively speaking, a vast domain at his dis- posal. His lot, perhaps, is forty feet wide and one hundred feet deep. His house at most oc- eupies half of this; occasionally some other building—a stable, a garage—may occupy a few feet more, but, withal, he has remaining six hundred, eight hundred or a_ thousand square feet upon which to plant vines, and shrubs, and trees, and flowers. By employing to advantage this available space, he can con- tribute to his own pleasure, to the pleasure of his neighbors and of passers-by; he may set a good example and he may materially increase the value of his property. The latter is not a matter of theory but a matter of fact. Nor THE YARD bk is the increase to property value confined to the property improved; on the contrary all sur- rounding .property is in a measure affected. Unfortunately, however, we learn this too often only through the demonstration of the negative of it. It is quickly enough realized when some neighborhood suffers a direct de- preciation in property values through the care- lessness, selfishness, ignorance or downright stubbornness of a single property owner who persists in maintaining an ugly, unsightly yard which is little less than a legal nuisance and most certainly a positive eyesore. If all these facts were more: extensively understood and their true worth and full sig- nificance were better known by individuals and communities, public health would be better con- served, cleanliness would be insured, fewer sanitary inspectors would be necessary and the beauty of town or city would be materially enhanced. The individual himself would no longer be the possessor of a house and lot, but he would become the owner of a home, with a yard harmonizing with the house and affording, in summer at least, an additional pleasant, healthful and attractive lving-room. CHAPTER if PLANNING THE GARDEN Before there were gardeners there were gar- dens. The first gardener, no doubt, was a fence-builder; he appropriated whatever he found growing, that was of use or benefit, in- closed it to exclude marauders and to protect and safeguard it the better. Consequently in the beginning a garden was an inclosed space. It is easily conceivable that in this inclosed space not all the native plants which might prove of value to this primitive gardener were to be found. He inclosed, doubtless, what he could, but some were too remotely situated to be included. It became his problem, therefore, to introduce such of these as he desired into his protected area and, in the subsequent op- erations, we have the first garden planning and the first actual gardening. This primitive ancestor was not without definite plan when he went beyond his crude pale and brought into his inclosure some plant 12 PLANNING THE GARDEN 13 which he had failed to include when he laid his barricade. And no more are we without plan when we transplant a tree, sow seeds or set out shrubs, vines or flowers. We put them where we believe they will prove most effective in attaining the end desired. This is the beginning of planning, and, even when it is elaborated, it is neither difficult nor complex, though it has, unfortunately, been made by professional gardeners to seem both. Nor is it uninteresting. On the contrary, it is simple and fascinating and no small part of the delight and interest in gardening, espe-. cially in planting to ornament a small place, owes its origin to the operation. Moreover, the picture thus produced is our own, not an- other’s; it is of our conception and our mak- ing, expressing our own ideas and our own feel- ings as well as our individual natures. And, being not only a simple but an absorbing pro- ~ eess, why, when so easily and cheaply engaged in, employ another to undertake the work for us? PRINCIPLES INVOLVED Let those who own ground start with the . premise that every place can be improved. No yard is too small and no estate too large 14 YARD AND GARDEN to make impossible its improvement by the use of plants of some sort, and, large or small, the principles involved are invariably the same— it is only the scale upon which they are applied that differs. Often one may see plants in tubs standing in front of store or office building, or set about the entrances and corridors in the busiest section of down-town districts of large cities. Wherever these are in evidence the passer-by does not fail to take note of them or to observe gratefully the effect they produce. There are also other instances where garden- ing is practised in almost impossible places. In some sections of some cities private resi- dences are without front lawns of any descrip- tion, and apparently there is no opportunity for planting. Still these homes are not with- out their flowers, for window boxes have been fitted in place and in these vines and flowers thrive and bloom. Then again—it is always a hopeful sign—in the most densely populated districts of the slums of our larger cities, one may frequently observe a plant struggling for life in some dust-streaked window of a home where dire poverty, only too evident, would seem to prohibit even the most feeble exhibi- - tion of a love for something green and growing. 1d a ON GARDE 7 4 PLANNING THE SIOMOT] LOZ dovdg Iasvoap JO JSOPL OY} SuTye W 16 YARD AND GARDEN One may turn also to the manufacturing centers and here he will find frequently that the prac- tical business sense of the owner has led him to employ vines, shrubs and flowers to make his work-shop a healthier and more enjoyable place for his employees. If one will consider for a moment what the purpose of a yard is, perhaps a sense of logic will induce him to see clearly ‘why an effort should be made to get as much out of it as space and other conditions will allow. The yard surrounding a house, whether large or small, contributes directly and indirectly to the health and comfort of the occupants of the home; it insures light, air and sunshine; it af- fords for the most of us at least a glimpse of nature. If we should determine to embellish this area with plants we should lose none of the advantages it affords but, as a matter of fact, we should add considerably to them. Individu- ally, we should get more light and more air and more sunshine, for gardening means out- doors life for the man or woman who begins it and takes an interest in it. It means ten or fif- teen minutes a day, or more perhaps, beneath the sky, and ten or fifteen minutes less beneath the roof. It means healthful éxercise, a closer Lf PLANNING THE GARDEN SULT YM pozuouvuig Aroprxy v yo spuno.y 18 YARD AND GARDEN acquaintance with nature, a broader glimpse of nature’s methods, and a deeper appreciation of nature’s handiwork. _It is worth while to have a yard but it is worth infinitely more to make use of it, and if one will tend it with interest and some regard for the fitness of things, surprising results can be accomplished. And when mention is made of the yard it must not be deduced that the spa- cious lawns and gardens of large city or subur- ban homes are in mind; on the contrary the reference is rather to the little strip of ground behind the house, and the smaller strip in front of it which answer for breathing spaces for most of us who dwell in cities and towns. The eity yard, of course, 1s deplorably small, and year by year, as population increases it seems to become smaller. It used to be that we con- sidered one house to a lot enough, but now the builder, anxious to make his property pay him goodly dividends, has developed the habit of doubling the building without increasing the size of the lots. It might be possible to show even to him that there are advantages often from an investment point of view in more ground and less building, but, while this is at best a difficult task—for it affects too intimately PLANNING THE GARDEN 19 the immediate revenues—it should not be diffi- cult to prove that provision made for planting and the planting itself are both wise invest- ments that will not: fail to yield substantial div- idends. EXAMPLES OF PLANTING ‘Let us take, as a basis to illustrate what can be done, the sort of lot one finds oftenest in the residence sections of cities. In one of the larger cities of the Middle West there is a small home on a lot forty feet wide and one hundred and fifty feet deep. To be exact, the house is situated twenty feet from the property line, four feet from the north line of the lot, ten feet from the south line and fifty feet from the west line. Around the porch, screening the foundations, are dwarf shrubs and ferns; along the south line of the house, in a border two feet wide between the walk and the house, there are lilies of various species growing among funkias or ‘‘plantain’’ liles—here again the brick foundations are entirely hidden from view. Boston ivy climbs up the pillars of the porch, and porch boxes are filled with flowering and foliage plants and vines. On the north side are more ferns and a few shrubs and these in their 20 YARD AND GARDEN turn completely hide the foundation walls. We have, therefore, to begin with, a house that is not ‘‘bare-footed.’’ The front yard is a lawn with no flowers erowing upon it, but a hedge, kept trimmed to a height of three feet, incloses the premises. In the rear there is a central lawn fifteen feet square; around this are grouped Example of Planting in Limited Space beds and borders of perennials and_ shrubs. Amongst these, annuals are planted each sea- son to afford additional bloom and a surer suc- cession. On this place, from the earliest days of spring until the first killing frost in the fall, there is never a time when an armful of flowers can PLANNING THE GARDEN 21 not be gathered. The planter of this place be- gan his work when he was in wretched health, but through his gardening operations he recov- ered from his illness, gained strength and vigor, made his home more beautiful and, at the ex- pense of a few minutes each day, and a. few dollars, he increased the value of the property nearly twenty per cent. If the owner of a city lot is not impressed by examples of this kind but still finds it diffi- cult to rid himself of the idea that the small space at his command means an end to all thought of ornamental planting, let him make a sketch of his yard on paper, drawn to seale, and with this before him undertake an explora- tron of the possibilities. It is not unlikely that this method of procedure will disclose oppor- tunities for gardening which, as a beginner, not yet either deeply interested or enthusiastic, he might otherwise overlook. Gradually, as these become apparent, the fact also will develop that it is not more impracticable to create a pleasing picture within an area of a few Square yards than in the space of a mansion garden. In- deed, it may prove that limitation of space will contribute to fine if not broad expression of the best gardening, for it is evident that it must 22 YARD AND GARDEN test to greater degree one’s taste and skill; in the contracted area more selection and more re- jection, better judgment and more care in ar- rangement must be exercised, whereas, in a big place, trees, shrubs and broad expanse of lawn are frequently sufficient in themselves to create the picture. ELEMENTARY PLANNING The person who has grown flowers for a year or two is in little need of the suggestion that even a season’s garden should be planned. There is enough delight in the work—in the an- ticipation to which it gives rise—to make it reasonably certain that the garden will be planned in some fashion before the planting time is at hand. In fact, all of us, even the novice, do more or less planning before we plant. Frequently we do not recognize it and really persuade ourselves that we plant as the desire seizes us. But, when it is considered that beds must be dug in the spring, it must be apparent that, in determining where they are to be situated, we have, in an elementary manner at least, planned our garden. It may seem absurd to speak of planning a single bed. One desires to plant so many PLANNING THE GARDEN 23 nasturtiums or, as May days come with their assurance that frosts are over, one begins to think of setting out geraniums. Well and good; no plan on paper is needed. The planter has only to determine upon the location of the bed and the work is done. But, even in so sim- ple a process, one has to take into considera- tion the very same things that must be con- sidered in planning a large garden. One must give some attention to surrounding objects, to the proximity, for instance, of buildings, of trees or shrubs or fences. One must ponder whether this color or that will war with the color of the house, or whether tall-growing or dwarf flowers shall be planted, or whether foliage or blossom is the more desirable. So, in a measure, in planning even this single small bed, consideration is had for conditions which must be taken into account when one is planning on a more extensive seale. But in the latter case, the planner has also to deal with other details. He must learn all there is to be learned of the situation and the conditions gov- erning it; he must take into consideration all surrounding objects—fences, houses, trees, shrubs or whatever there may be of a _ per- manent nature, for which provision must be YARD AND GARDEN 24 IIUMQ 2} Aq poyurid pue pouur Id p Iv A ap t S PLANNING THE GARDEN 25 made. He must consider what plants will thrive best under the conditions into which he purposes:to bring them and he must consider what plants will harmonize in color and what will not. He must select and reject and con- tinue the process until he has not only a list of plants suitable to the site but one also which includes as many as possible of those he most desires. It is by such means that a plan be- comes an expression of the planter’s own indi- viduality and the garden which is planted in accordance with it reflects the character of its maker. PLANNING BEFORE BUILDING In many instances one of the first discoveries that will be made is that the ornamentation of the home grounds could have been accom- plished far more speedily, effectively and eco- nomically if, before building, some thought had been given to the matter and some comprehen- sion of the real value of a yard had been gained. In America, too often the blunder is made of building a house on a site which pre- sents numerous difficulties in the way of adorn- ment when other sites more favorable might be obtained, at no greater expense than a little 26 YARD AND GARDEN more forethought and search. This is fre- quently followed by another blunder which re- sults in the location of the house on the site in such manner that even the few possibilities for ornamentation which might have existed at first, are almost entirely eliminated. It is not uncommon to observe, as an illustration, the destruction of some splendid tree, cut down without thought of its value, when by setting the house a few feet 1n one direction or another, the sacrifice could have been easily avoided and a natural ornament requiring perhaps a half century for its growth and development pre- served. In this connection it may be well to observe that it is not always either advisable or desir- able to set the house on a line with adjoining structures, and certainly it is not necessary. A neighbor may protest if you suggest pro- jecting your house beyond his, but surely he will offer no objection to your setting it farther back if you wish, and often you will be the gainer if you adopt this course. It is difficult to account for the idea, which seems firmly fixed in some cities and towns, calling for the usual military-like alignment of houses. It means frequently a waste of yard possibilities—a neg- + 4 PLANNING THE lopUa) UT ® [o a O lo ad =P te A I ) ul Surjue d1VIOgVTT [ a IC 28 YARD AND GARDEN lect of genuine natural resources—with no ap- parent gain to overcome the loss. . The preservation of continuity of the prop- erty line is sometimes, of course, a necessity in large cities, especially where land is expensive and where every foot must be covered by build- ing, but where lots are large, comparatively speaking, make sure that to establish the house on the line will contribute to the general ap- pearance of the place as a home before the step is taken. If it may seem that more is to be gained. by setting it farther back from the street than neighboring houses, do not sacrifice your originality as an offering to conventionality, but build your foundations accordingly, use the rear yard as a service yard only and make the most of the front area that as a result will be at your disposal. Bear in mind that the house itself will show to better advantage when it is set, as it eventually should be, in a frame of blooming plants, green shrubs and climbing vines. PROVIDING FOR WALKS Especially give attention to the location of walks. First consider where the street en- trance or entrances are to be, deciding this on PLANNING THE GARDEN 29 the basis of practical usage and convenience. Then direct the walks by the shortest route to their objective point. Avoid senseless curves, especially in a small yard, and have no more walks than are absolutely necessary, nor walks _ that are wider than necessary. If the grounds are large—half an acre or more in extent—then walks serving no practical ends may be intro- duced if desired. These may lead by devious course to retired seats or summer-houses or may conduct to shrubberies or to artificial gar- den ornaments, as, for example, a sun-dial. But if such walks are wanted, let the planter go forth to some remote wood or old meadow and, finding a path worn by the foot of man or beast, study its outlines and curves. He will not be long in observing that its irregularities -are not without purpose—it avoids obstacles, a tree, a shrub, a stump, a stone, a bog; it cir- cles knolls or follows the meanderings of a stream. But always it changes its course for reasons that are obvious. And for such reasons and these alone should the direction of walks laid on residence grounds be changed. The obstacles, of course, may be provided, but in any event they should be present and visible. A grouping of shrubbery, a large boulder, a 30 YARD AND GARDEN tree or similar object, artificial as well as nat- ural, may be employed to gain the end desired and will not fail to prove effective as well as logical, Each year finds Americans giving more and more attention to all such details. The house no longer receives attention to the entire exclu- sion of its surroundings; it has come to be con- sidered a part of the home, not all of it. And this is equally true when the house is already erected, as it is in a majority of instances, and we must make the most of conditions as we find them. This, of course, is more difficult, but it is never impossible. It means only that all the more planning is necessary and it presents no cause for discouragement, but, on the contrary, an incentive to greater effort. CELAP THR. 10 HOW TO PLAN Though where art is concerned, rules are fre- quently ‘‘more. honored in the breach than in the observance,’’ still there are certain princi- ples, all general in character, which, if followed, will lead the beginner safely past the commoner faults observed in yard ornamentation. These principles are as simple and obvious in point of reason as they are few in number and all of them are so fundamental that no grounds, of whatever size, can be tastefully embellished without observing them. They might be called, as they are here set forth, the ‘‘ten command- ments of ornamental gardening.’’ PRINCIPLES OF ARRANGEMENT I. Preserve unbroken stretches of lawn of as great length as possible in one or more places, according to the size of the lot. II. Set the tallest-growing plants nearest the boundaries of the yard and those of shorter OL a2 YARD AND GARDEN erowth so that the range of height will be upward and outward from the center of the lawn. III. Avoid planting next the street or avenue sidewalks unless seclusion is the object. Tall- growing trees, that head high, may be excepted, for these, when they have attained fair height, do not obstruct the view. IV. Plant no tall-growing trees or shrubs so close to the dwelling that light and air will be excluded and avoid their use in small lots where good lawns and flowers are desired. But if sturdy, healthy trees are already established on a lot upon which no building has been erected, make every effort to save them and arrange other plans, both of building and planting, ac- cordingly. - V. Avoid the formation of numerous sepa- rate flower-beds. Avoid beds of geometric de- signs on the lawn. Avoid seattered and gaudy - effects and ‘‘specimen”’ planting. VI. Plant in a manner that will insure pleas- ing vistas from the principal windows, the en- trances or porches of the dwelling. VII. Keep in mind the season of bloom of different plants desired as well as their height at maturity and aim for a succession of flowers. Oo OW) PO PLAN surqur[d oarjoaye ynq opdutis fo a duexyy issn oe couse ot YARD AND GARDEN Keep the color of bloom also in mind to avoid color discords. VIII. Avoid overplanting as well as under- planting. Simplicity rather than ornateness should be the aim. The smaller the area to be planted, the smaller should be the materials employed. Do not attempt too much; consider the space available and do not overload it, reckon the time that can be devoted to garden- ing and do not overtax it. IX. Do not establish purposeless walks on small grounds. Curve or bend no walk without some apparent reason, as, for instance, to avoid an obstacle. Do not make purposeless use of garden ornaments or structures—pergolas, ar- bors, summer-houses, sun-dials, ete. X. Plan before you plant, for planting with- out a plan is as certain to beget error as build- ing a house without the architect’s blue-print; and plan to make a picture. The novice may feel that, if it 1s necessary to keep these rules in mind, planning is not the simple matter it has been represented to be. Still, onee he begins, he will find that it is prosaic common sense which dictates these principles and that, in no small measure, prac- tical and economical considerations enter into HOW TO PLAN 30 their conception. He will find also that he is bound to observe most of them, consciously or unconsciously, in planning even the smallest yard or garden. For instance, it is hardly necessary to caution him against setting dwarf plants behind those of taller growth, and it Should be similarly superfluous to advise him to consider color, character and season of bloom. He could not progress far with his planning be- fore questions would arise involving all these points and, at the same time, a majority of the other rules of the ten recited. PLAN ON PAPER So far as the actual work of planning is con- cerned, it is best begun by obtaining paper ruled to seale or else by ruling paper to use as a substitute. A convenient scale'is one where the lines are’ one-eighth of an inch apart and so ruled horizontally and vertically that one- eighth inch squares are formed. Let each di- vision thus obtained répresent a square foot of the yard. If the lot is fifty feet wide, there should be, of course, fifty lines as long in eighths as the lot is long in feet. If, however, the lot is small, larger divisions with the lines farther apart may be employed, or if the grounds are 36 YARD AND GARDEN too large to make the eighth-inch seale practical, two or three feet instead of one may be allowed to each division. | Carefully indicate on the plan the location of all objects which are to remain permanently, allowing to each the exact amount of space it oc- eupies. If a house is standing on the lot, or a stable, shed or other building, show on the plan the shape and size of each. If a tree is among these permanent objects, indicate not only its location, but also the area of ground sheltered by its spread of branches. Irregu- larities in the surface of the ground, if they are to remain, should also be clearly outlined. Make sure that everything designated to re- main is necessarily permanent, and, in. this con- nection, once more let the fact be emphasized that in small city yards trees are not always of first importance. It is better in many instances to rid the ground entirely of a half-lifeless, shapeless specimen than to arrange everything else to fit its requirements. When all objects and surface irregularities of a permanent nature have been finally indi- eated upon the diagram, the planner can turn his attention to the making of his picture. And let him bear in mind that it is a picture he HOW TO PLAN ov is making. It is to be an individual whole, an area separate from other areas, possessing its own character, with every part and feature con- tributing its value to the homogeneous effect. House and yard are to become a united whole; ornamentation is to harmonize with architec- ture; there is not to be a house and lot, but a home. HARMONY OF EFFECT Planning with this end in view at once recalls what has already been said of purposeless planting. Do not imagine that it is enough to scatter trees, shrubs and flowers promiscuously over the place, for a yard planted in such a fashion is without central idea and betrays a lack of judgment, care or creative ability on the part of the planter. Mere planting without purpose is almost invariably without value as ornament. Naturally, on small lots, the residence will be the central figure. Plan, then, to keep it so. Make it unlikely that any one will remark any individual feature surrounding it or even the house itself—it is the home that is to be re- marked. Strive to do for this house what a camera lens does frequently for a landscape. It reduces the importance of prominent or indi- 38 YARD AND GARDEN vidual objects,-it will be remembered, and brings into immediate view in the resultant pic- ture all the details as a whole and, more than this, shuts off extraneous and irrelevant sur- roundings, which might serve to distract atten- tion. One sees first on the photograph the whole of the picture and later he sees the de- tails. Plan, therefore, for the whole. This nat- urally means planning for harmonious effect which, in time, suggests careful consideration of the value of each plant selected in its rela- tion to the whoije and not in the light of its own individual value. This is the difficult point for the beginner to master. He reads alluring de- scriptions of various plants and, forgetting his picture, remembers only these details; he mag- nifies the part and detracts from the composite. As a result we have not only the scattered planting so often seen but that other barrier to effective ornamentation of the home grounds, senseless specimen-planting. Opposed to such methods is the mass plant- ing which alone will add character and strength and a sense of unity to the place. Once the value of this is grasped the beginner is not likely to go far astray in his planning. He made the Center 1s ht ‘Tree i 1¢€ i h ing in W Yard Plant 40) YARD AND GARDEN . would, for instance, no more think of cutting a geometric flower-bed figure in the center of his lawn than he would think of planting a secret- order emblem of scarlet geraniums and coleus in the heart of a forest landscape. On the con- trary the greensward would appeal to him as his canvas upon which, painter-like, he is to produce his picture. He would demand, not isolation for his flowers, but a neighborly back- ground, and an informal border rather than a formal bed in which to grow them. HEIGHT AND COLOR Begin the plan, then, with the yard bounda- ries. Establish here the backgrounds, and plant from them toward the center. Should a board fence serve as one boundary, vines may be trained over it, converting it into as effective a background as one. could desire. A line of shrubs or of tall-growing perennials could serve as another, a hedge of roses or privet as still another, or indeed, anything of the sort that the planner may desire. Carefully indicate on the diagram where each is to be planted and the space it-1s to oceupy. Designate each mark set down by a number or letter and, at the bottom of the plan, or on sep- HOW TO PLAN 4] arate paper, set down the number or letter and after it the name of the plant it indicates. The number required of each can be readily ascer- tained. by allowing for necessary distance be- tween plants on the plan itself. The planner will not proceed far with this process before he will find it necessary, for the sake of harmony in height and color, to con- sider both qualities when he selects the various plants he may desire. He will also be obliged to consider soil and light conditions. He might find, for instance, that what he desires is a hardy perennial attaining a height of twenty- four or thirty inches, whose flower is white, and which will thrive in a heavy soil in a situation exposed to the full rays of the sun. If such be his requirement, based upon the idea of the ef- fect as a whole, would it not be manifestly absurd for him to select a plant attaining a height of six inches or six feet, demanding half shade for its welfare and producing a red flower? Yet, absurd as the idea is, this is fre- quently done and the planter, moreover, won- ders why he is not satisfied with the result produced. So the planner, in selecting his plants, must keep in mind not only the requirements of his 42 YARD AND GARDEN picture but he must have consideration, too, for the requirements of the materials with which he works. He should remember also that there are five or six months in the year when his yard should be like another room to his residence, and he should strive to provide a succession of bloom. It is inadvisable, however, to sacrifice unity to gain this end. In other words, a suc- cession of bloom is not as important as is the exclusion from the plan of too many varieties of plants. SLOW PLANNING AND PLANTING It is best to proceed slowly with planning and still more slowly with planting. A yard can not be effectively embellished in a season—the picture can not be painted in a summer. It is advisable to plant the boundaries first, setting out the heavier stock, carefully cultivating it until it is well established and comes in turn to suggest to the gardener many opportunities for effective planting against the background it affords. Too often the error is made of planting all at once only to gain as a result an unsatisfactory effect. Rather than encounter the discouragement that such an unfortunate outcome may cause, and to avoid, also, useless HOW TO PLAN 45 loss of time, money and labor, it would be far better to postpone some of the planting until the following season. By then a better esti- mate will be had of the effectiveness of the work already done and a more complete idea may be formed of the planting still to be done. mene ig hae aa ae bo Wall-planting — Result of Careful Planning This suggests the advantage of the plan that is carefully drawn and executed. It can be added to from time to time, from season to season, as the picture develops in the planner’s mind, and always it will serve as a valuable and almost indispensable key to the names of the various plants employed. CHAP Tin ty LAWNS Nothing adds more to a city home than a fresh and velvety lawn. Nothing, however, is more seldom seen. Still, if properly planted and tended, good lawns are not difficult to achieve. The chief cause of failure is in per- mitting hasty turfing immediately upon the completion of building operations. PREPARATION OF THE SOIL No proper consideration is had for soil con- ditions. It may be that in excavating for the cellar, sand or clay has been thrown upon the old surface soil to a depth of a foot or more. Mixed with this are pieces of board and brick, chips of stone, and not infrequently concrete. It should be apparent to any one that turf laid on such soil as this can not succeed, yet in al- most three-fourths of the instances where grass ‘‘refuses to grow’’ this is the immediate cause of the trouble. 44 LAWNS pum. To make a good lawn from turf or from seed, the first essential is to give it a foundation of good soil worked to a considerable depth. It is really impossible to get soil too good for a good lawn, and while the cultivation of this soil to a depth of one foot is absolutely necessary, it is far better to work it thoroughly to a depth of two feet. If the ground about the home is good and this good soil runs to a depth of a foot, the first thing to do is to plow or spade it thoroughly. But if the ground be poor the preliminary step must be its improvement. When it is considered that the grass of the lawn is a permanent crop, the necessity for thorough cultivation at the start is apparent. Go about this by removing, as far as possible, such soil as offers no encouragement to culti- vation and substituting for it soil that is rich and fertile enough to insure a thick heavy crop of grass. The thorough working of all soil which is to be the foundation of the lawn, means first to rid it of foreign substances which are detrimental to plant growth of any sort—split and torn roots, stones, bricks and such rubbish. Then plow or spade, going to a depth of at least one foot, and pulverize the soil by using a spade, hoe or harrow, adding while this last 16 YARD AND GARDEN process is carried forward, fertilizer in the form of manure. FERTILIZING AND PLOWING Well-rotted cow manure is the best fertilizer to apply; it imparts humus as well as plant food, and adds something to the ground upon which the plants may feed season after season. It is often advisable to apply also a thin dress- ing of air-slacked lime, plowing this in or spad- ing it in at the time the ground is first broken, or adding it later after the fertilizer has been thoroughly incorporated with the soil. In getting the soil in condition for turfing or the sowing of seeds, bear in mind always that the lawn, if it is to be successful, must be properly started. Flowers can be planted each season, lifted and transplanted, shrubs can be reset and all with comparatively little bother and little work. But not so with the lawn. If it has to be remade the operation means not only much trouble and much labor but, for a considerable period, an unsightly yard. If the place to be planted in grass is small, the cultivation, of course, can be more thor- ough—it can not be too thorough in any event. On larger areas, though, nothing suggested LAWNS Aire punog par A AY Dae SV 7 OALL d jo o0peT] 48 YARD AND GARDEN should be overlooked. Plow deeply and harrow thoroughly. If, to begin with, the land appears to be impossible, make every effort to render it as fit as can be while the plowing and harrow- ing are in progress. If the soil is deficient in humus begin the foundation of the lawn fully a year before it is desired to seed it. Plant a erop of cow peas and in the fall plow it under, adding immediately a dressing of lime. In the early spring following, apply a dressing of well- rotted manure, and plow and harrow again. Make the surface soil fine and level. It is al- ways best to let the ground stand for three or four weeks untouched, so that any weeds may germinate and show themselves and be eradi- eated by another harrowing. When the area to be put to lawn is limited, as it is in the case of small city residences, it is necessary, first of all, to determine whether the soil, as it lies, is suitable for a good lawn. If it is not, waste no time with it but have it carted away and good loam substituted. Work this thoroughly and if it is in the fall—the best time to begin lawn-making—top-dress it with manure and let it remain -somewhat roughly heaped, that is, without pulverizing or smoothing. The winter’s frost and the alternate LAWNS 49 freezing and thawing will do more to put the soil in excellent condition than a month’s spad- ing, hoeing and raking. TURF Once the ground is got into shape, the planter may proceed to establish his lawn by one of two methods; he may use turf or seed. The former is probably most frequently employed in cities because it gives immediate results. It is quickly laid and quickly establishes itself, and if properly laid, is usually satisfactory, provided, of course, it 1s well-selected turf, free from weeds or rank grasses that are unsightly and difficult to manage. In laying sod be sure that the edges of the turf are brought closely together and later fill in the spaces that may re- main with loose soil. The chief advantage of turf is the fact that it can be laid at any time when the ground ean be worked, and if estab- lished on such a foundation of cultivated soil as has been described as necessary for either turf or seed, it will grow. But it must be wa- tered persistently and thoroughly and it de- mands, moreover, much attention during the first year while it is establishing itself. It is important in making the lawn from turf 50 YARD AND GARDEN J to select the turf carefully. T'’oo often this is intrusted to ignorant laborers who use no judgment but take whatever is closest at hand and easiest to obtain, regardless of whether it is overgrown with weeds or spotted with un- desirable grasses. Once satisfactory turf 1s obtained, laid evenly and closely and the unions Sun-dial in Corner of City Lawn are filled with loose earth, it is necessary to beat it. This is essential in order to insure intimate contact with the underlying soil, and if this is not secured the planter of the turf will have gained nothing. The roots will refuse to take hold of the under-soil, and the grass after a few days will die. Watering, of course, will tend LAWNS ‘Ol to prevent any such disaster and may be the means of nursing the turfs to healthful and vig- orous growth, but more frequently, if the grasses do not die, they will struggle slowly before they finally show signs of health and vigor. As a matter of fact, it is almost impossible to obtain really good sod in any quantity. Usually the turfs that are laid are filled with weeds and once the sod is down and established, it is almost impossible to exterminate them. Then it is extremely difficult to prevent patches from failing utterly and leaving bare spots, where new grass is established only with the most painstaking care and persistence. As a general thing a turf lawn ean not be established for two or three years and during that time it will almost invariably appear uneven and patchy, lacking uniformity of color and wanting in that freshness and texture which comes from proper seeding alone. THE SEEDED LAWN The seeded lawn established on a foundation. of soil properly prepared is usually the most satisfactory lawn in the long run. Prepare the seed bed—after working the soil as already out- o2 YARD AND GARDEN lined—by finely pulverizing the surface and making the top soil perfectly smooth. It should, of course, be freed from all rubbish, such as roots, stones and the like. Sow the seed in April or May or in September. In the South, however, seeding can be done in Febru- ary and November. If the spring is selected sow the seed as soon as the ground can be got into fit condition. Broadcast the seed. Dis- tribute it evenly over the entire surface of the ground and at the rate of not less than four bushels to the aere—five would be better. For smaller areas use at least one quart of seed to every 300 square feet. In England, noted for its fine velvety lawns, 114 ewt. is used per acre and one pound per square rod. It is hardly necessary to suggest that a day should be selected for the sowing that is quiet, for wind will bear the fine seed away and half of it will be wasted, while an even distribution will be practically impossible. When sowing keep the hand close to the ground and swing the arm freely, taking care to scatter the seed thor- oughly, not allowing it to bunch. Do not hesi- tate to sow thickly. Thick sowing is an advan- tage in more ways than one. In the first place it prevents weeds from getting a firm foothold. LAWNS Do for they are crowded out by the grass seedlings, and in the second place it insures a finer grass leaf which in turn means a ‘‘velvety’’ lawn. Usually it is advisable to go over the ground twice. The first time sow from east to west and the second time from north to south. After the seed has been broadcasted, rake or harrow lightly the entire area so that the seeds are cov- ered very thinly. Follow this by rolling and if you desire the best results never omit this finishing process; it firms the ground and in- sures germination of the seed, while it gives the seedlings a firm foot-hold when they send their roots forth in quest of food. SEED FORMULA Buy good seed. This is an economy and an essential for good lawns. The well-known Kentucky blue-grass is the best of all for the lawn. It is not difficult to grow; indeed, where it refuses to grow, soil conditions are such that no permanent grass will thrive. Kentucky blue combines more desirable qualities, prob- ably, than any other grass, and on this account it should be made the foundation and principal ingredient of any mixture that is applied. The other ingredients of the mixture are important o4 YARD AND GARDEN for various reasons. Chief among these is the fact that IKentucky blue-grass does not ger- minate quickly; if it is planted in the fall, for instance, there will be no results until the next spring, and if sown in the spring it will be some time before it makes even a light covering for the soil. Various formule are offered by dealers in seeds, and where the dealer is known to be re- liable and is willing to furnish the purchaser with an analysis of his mixture, it is safe to pur- chase it and probably the best thing, all cireum- stances considered, to do. But be sure in any event that the Kentucky blue-grass which should form the bulk of the mixture is ‘‘re- cleaned fancy,’’ and do not accept any seed that weighs less than twenty pounds to the bushel. The object of the mixture is to insure im- mediate results from the sowing while the blue- grass is germinating, but incidentally the extra grasses mixed with the blue-grass serve addi- tional purposes. In the first place mixtures result in a denser turf because grasses thrive better when grown in variety. Then, too, the Kentucky blue-grass has some undesirable fea- tures and it is these that the other seeds in the mixture will correct. The Kentucky blue, for LAWNS 55 instance, does not carpet the ground as closely as other varieties and when mowed shows patches of soil and brown. The best formula for general purposes is as follows:. Pg BLDC oo a a ee eo eae 10 Ibs. OE US ELT ST RS AD plea oe Te 3 lbs. MEARE VS eC Sg ses breed Sere Sah acne a eae re ee ce Sie 3 lbs. wo TREC SOT a Alt Serge ere 4 lbs. In any event this can be used as a basic mix- ture and by substituting various grasses suited _to various situations for a portion of the Ken- tucky blue-grass, the mixture will be found gen- erally effective. Other mixtures are as follows: FOR SHADED SPOTS Poe pratensis: (Kentucky blue): ....... 2.6 2 oie. ca eee 40% Poa nemoralis (wood-meadow grass)..... - ee ie ee eer 40% Gynosurus ecristatus (crested dog’s-tail).............. 15% Festuca heterophylla (various-leaved fescue)........... 5% FOR SANDY SOILS Perupratensis., (Kentucky blue)... .....-. 22.26. c ee cee oe 20% Agrostis canina (Rhode Island bent).......... ft aats aioe Agrostis alba, var. stolonifera (creeping bent) ......... 35% eiica. ovina (Sheep's fesctle) ..% . 60. Fe ee ee den 10% FOR. CLAY SOILS Pea mraceusis, (Kentucky -bhie):... 5.02.20 2 6s cee we ss 45% marostis alba, var. vulgaris (Redtop)................. 39% Lolium perenne, var. tenue (fine-leaved English rye).... 20% FOR SLOPES AND TERRACES Poepratensis (Kentucky blue)... . 2.2.02. 62.225 dne 15% Agrostis alba, var. stolonifera (creeping bent)......... 35% Cynosurus cristatus (crested dog’s-tail)............... 30% Reevecompressa (Canada blue)... .. 6.006.012 5 oc s es were 20% D6 YARD AND GARDEN FEEDING THE GRASS When a lawn is properly treated in the pre- liminary stages and manure is incorporated with the soil as it is spaded or plowed and raked or harrowed, little need be done in the way of feeding the grass for six or seven years, but where the soil is thin or the lawn has been es- tablished for some time fertilizer of some sort is necessary. It should be remembered that the grass is feeding continuously and exhausting the plant food of the soil. What it is taking from the soil is not given back in any degree, because the grass is mowed and the mowings earted away. Then, too, it should be remem- bered that grass is a permanent crop and it is impossible, once it is established, to assist 1t by the cultivation which it is possible to give to other crops, whether they be flowers or vegeta- bles. Fertility can be added by spreading over the surface a dressing of organic manure. Use cow manure if it is possible to obtain it and place it on the lawn after the ground is frozen —this prevents the cutting of wheels of the cart or wheelbarrow into the sod. Be sure that the manure used is well rotted, that it is old. u MUTT JO JIUIT Sutuyod SROETAT x 3 . S$ oso u PUP ts SuULqUIT] @) jo 9 e op oH aageee SPRL ES aeeeee eae 08 YARD AND GARDEN Fresh manure is not only damaging to the grass but is almost certain to be filled with minute seeds of various weeds. Let the manure re- main until early spring and a double benefit will be derived from the dressing. It will not only impart plant food to the soil, but it will serve as an effective mulch which will to a great extent overcome the injury caused by the alter- nate thawing and freezing during the winter. When the grass shows a vigorous growth in the spring, rake the coarser material from the lawn and follow this by rolling. In the spring it is best to top-dress the lawn with an application of finely ground bone meal mixed with hard-wood ashes. Combine the mix- ture by using equal parts of each by weight, and spread the fertilizer on the lawn until it takes upon itself a grayish appearance, or to be more exact at the rate of one ton to the acre. It is best to select a day for applying this top dressing that is still and promises a light rain. Another fertilizer that has a beneficial effect on lawns is nitrate of soda. Apply this at the rate of one ounce to the square yard, and make sure, if it is applied in dry form, that it is broad- casted immediately preceding a shower. It is perhaps best to apply this to the lawn by dis- LAWNS 59 solving it in water, using one pint to forty gal- lons of water. The effect of nitrate of soda will be observed almost immediately; the grass will take on a fresher color, a deeper, richer green, and will make vigorous growth. Hard- wood ashes, however, are especially valuable as food for lawns of Kentucky blue-grass. Bone meal is one of the most permanent fertilizers, and is chiefly valuable, so far as grasses are concerned, for its phosphates. Lime used on the lawn should be air-slacked; it is best as a winter dressing, and should be applied at the rate of a pint cup full to the square yard. ROLLING THE LAWN The application of fertilizer is by no means the only thing necessary to maintain a lawn in good condition. The turf must be rolled and the grass mowed and watered. Some indica- tion of the value of rolling has already been given in this chapter. It is important and should never be neglected where the best re- sults are sought. The rolling is necessary in order to make the roots as firm as possible and should be applied frequently. The heavier the roller the better it is for the lawn. In the spring as soon as the ground becomes work- 60 YARD AND GARDEN able and the grass starts into growing, the en- tire surface of the lawn should be rolled to overcome the effects of the alternate freezing and thawing during the winter months, which has a tendency to loosen the surface soil. It will be readily observed that the heavier the soil and the more moist it is the more necessity there is for rolling. In using the roller it is best to roll in two directions at least, as was suggested for broadcasting the seed—that 1s, from north to south and from east to west. In selecting the roller obtain one that will repre- sent a weight of a thousand pounds at least. Very frequently it will be found that old lawns which appear to be beyond the power of cul- tivation to bring back into condition, require nothing more than repeated applications of the roller, and in the case of new lawns very poor and disappointing results will follow the fail- ure of the planter to make use of this essential lawn device. MOWING No lawn can be kept in good condition un- less it is frequently mowed. The best method to follow in cutting the grass is to mow it once a week with the knives of the machine set high. 61 LAWNS UMLTT UL Poyst[qeyss SLIT Jo Auoyo \ ) 62 YARD AND GARDEN This is much better than mowing it at inter- vals of two weeks with the knives set low. Still it must not be considered that any regular in- terval can be designated for the mowing pro- cess; conditions must govern the cutting. If the growth is rapid, mowing may be necessary oftener than once a week, but where the lawn can be gone over with the machine at least once every six or seven days, the knives on the mower should not be set closer than two inches to the ground. In cases where the grass has been allowed to get unusually long, the knives should be set even higher for the first two or three mowings and then brought gradually lower until the proper distance from the — ground is obtained. It is often a question whether the clippings resulting from the use of the mower should be left on the lawn or removed. If, however, the lawn is mowed frequently and the grass is kept at a uniform height of about two inches the clippings if left on the lawn will do no harm, but, on the contrary, very often will prove a benefit inasmuch as they will act, in some de- gree at least, as mulch and protect the roots, especially in the early spring, from the scorch- ing rays of the sun. But if the grass has been LAWNS 63 allowed to gain a considerable growth, it will be positively detrimental to permit the clip- pings to remain. This is especially true where the soil is inclined to be heavy and the moisture it contains is not quickly given off. In such instances the cut grass hanging closely about the roots and there rotting will be the cause of not a little subsequent trouble. On lighter soils there is less danger from leaving the clip- pings on the lawn, and in some instances it is even better to do so. Grass that is cut on dull cloudy days will be found to yield itself more readily to the knives of the mower, and in addition to this will show less disposition to resent even close mowing than when a bright hot day is selected - for the operation. WATERING It is a fallacy to proceed with the watering of a lawn on the basis that it is not good for the grass to wet it while the sun is shining. If watering is done as it should be it will make very little difference whether the day is bright - or cloudy. Mere sprinkling is detrimental in any event and is to be avoided, especially on bright days. This method of ‘‘watering’’ a 64 YARD AND GARDEN lawn is undoubtedly the cause of much of the trouble experienced in obtaining the best re- sults where conditions would seem to indicate that they should be easily attained. Instead of playing a thin mist-like spray over the lawn, see to it that the ground is soaked; in other words, when you do water, water well. Apply enough so that the water will soak in the ground, saturating it for a depth of two or three inches at least. Remember that the roots of grasses as well as of other plants seek moisture where it is to be found. If you persist in hghtly sprinkling your lawn the roots, instead of pene- trating to the cooler depths, will persist in remaining on the surface, where they soon become dry and baked by the sun. If, on the other hand, the roots find what they require at - a depth of six or eight inches or a foot below the surface of the soil, they will make a growth in that direction to obtain it. In most cities, unfortunately, there are reg- ulations maintained by companies supplying water making it practically impossible to water a lawn as it should be watered. These regula- tions prohibit the use of a hose without the nozzle, and this in itself 1s a positive handicap for the owner of city property who is anxious LAWNS SqUr] dq UIA po JIU vu WO) | 1v XK jo Ioulo,y ALWYStsuy 66 YARD AND GARDEN to obtain a soft and velvety lawn. Where, however, regulations do not interfere, it is best to water without a nozzle, letting the water emerge unchecked from the hose and with the : foree of the stream so regulated that it will not wear holes in the turf. Let the end of the hose rest on the grass and as the ground becomes saturated with the water move it about from place to place until the whole area is thoroughly wet. Watering in this manner can be carried on at any time of the day whether the sun is bright or clouded. WEEDS The weed problem is one not so easily dis- posed of. Frequently a _ splendid lawn is ruined in a comparatively short time by allow- ing the weeds to gain a foothold, and permit- ting them to spread. Guard against any such catastrophe by keeping ahead of the pests. Remember that where a lawn is well kept, planted on a foundation of suitable soil, weeds will have a difficult time to establish themselves. Be sure each time the lawn is mowed to look earefully for the weeds. It is best always to dig out the dandelions and plantains before the mower is run over them. LAWNS 67 Occasionally an effort is made to save a lawn that is overrun by these weeds, and the per- plexed owner seeks for some solution which, when applied, will kill the objectionable intrud- ers and do no harm to the grass. Let him understand now, once for all, that the only sure and safe method of eradication is by removing the weeds, root and all, by digging them out with hand tools. No other method will relieve the. turf of dandelions, plantain or dock. Mowing does not kill them nor does cutting them off an inch or two below the surface of the soil. Both dandelions and plantains seed very rapidly and multiply at an enormous rate. They must not, therefore, be allowed to come to seed. Re- move them or such of them as can be reached by the use of some tool, and if all the root, by this process, 1s not obtained, drop a erystal of sulphate of iron in the hole made by the oper- ation and this, dissolving, will kill the root re- maining. tas] bs) an Is Color Cultural Popular Name _ LJBotanical Name Suggestions Height (inches) Anemone blanda 6 Blue Windflower Anemone Apen- 7 Blue Rich soil and sun nina Trumpet nar- Narcissus White- cissus Pseudo-Narcis- 15 Yellow sus k : Rich, deep soil — Cup narcissus Narcissus incom- 15 W hite- sun or half-shade parabilis yellow Jonquil Narcissus 12 Yellow - Jonquilla a Spring snowflake Leucojum i White Light soil, rich, and vernum sun SS Crown imperial Fritillaria im- Yellow- ) Moist situation, ; perialis 4 = “red some shade, rich soil LS pce a ————————————————————— Grape hyacinth Muscari 6 Purple- Sunny situation, botryoides _ blue fair soil rd OE EE ——————E— Tulip Tulip suaveolens 12 Various Sunny situation, light, fair soil sa etn we Hyacinth Hyacinthus 12 Fairly rich soil, orientalis sun MAY Poet’s narcissus Narcissus poet- 16 White eo or shade, rich icus _ deep: sol ae soil 10 Blue, Half Fialf. shade eae fair Bluebell Scilla festalis white, soil ‘* pink See a Garden anemone Anemone hor- 10 Purple, ) Some shade, light, tensis white, rich soil red. Poppy anemone Anemone coro- 10 ee t Some shade, light, a rich soil Hine Wake Robin Trillium grandi- 12 White pee sun, damp, florum rich soil May-flowering Tulipa Gesneriana 24 Various Sun, rich, light soil tulip Ns i EE ——————e——— Star-of-Bethlehem Ornithogalum 9 White Sun or shade, fair umbellatum soil APPENDIX 381 JUNE = ¥en 0 : : > 7 : t ODS Cultural Popular Name _ Botanical Name aa Color Gueestaits as Spanish iris Iris Xiphium 20 White, Light, rich soil and blue, sun yellow English iris Iris xiphioides 24 Purple- Light, rich soil and white sun SOR TT. ; ; Madonna lily Lilium candidum 30 White Light, well drained soil, little shade = ; ; 5 Hanson’s lily Lilium Hansoni 30 Orange Light, well drained soil, little shade JULY Erect lily Lilium elegans 18 Orange- Light, rich, well- ' red drained soil, sun ee ee a DE Canada lily Lilium Canadense36 Yellow- Moist, leaf mould, red partial shade ee Purple trumpet Lilium Brownii 36 Purple- Light soil, sheltered lily white sunny situation White trumpet Lilium longi- 26 White Light soil, sun lily florum AUGUST oe ee er eee ee eee Summer hyacinth Galtonia candi- 30 White Light but deep soil cans rich; sun Turk’s Lily Lilium superbum 50 Red Deep soil, light but 2 orange rich; sun Speciosum lily Lilium speciosum 36 White, Deep soil, light but pink. rich; partial shade Henry’s lily Lilium Henryi 48 Red, Deep soil, light but yellow rich; sun Golden-banded Pb 40 White Deep soil, light but lily Lilium auratum and gold rich; sun SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER Autumn crocus Colchicum 5 White, Light rich loam, autumnale pink, sun purple. Checkered crocus Colchicum 5 Purple Light, rich loam, ‘Parkinson1 sun Yellow starflower Sternbergia lutea 5 Yellow Rich, heavy soil, sun 382 YARD AND GARDEN PLANTING TABLE OF THE BEST AND EASIEST GROWN Height Popular Name Botanical Name Color (inches) Chionodoxa Luciliz Sky blue 8 Glory-of-the-snow Chionodoxa Sardensis Deep blue 8 Autumn crocus Colchicum autumnale White, pink purple Checkered crocus Colchicum Parkinsoni Purple 5 Crocus biflorus Light lilac 5 Crocus Imperati Lilac 5 Crocus Crocus Meesiacus Yellow 5 Crocus Susianus Golden 5 Crocus vernus White, purple, 5 lilac Winter aconite Eranthis hyemalis Yellow 6 Crown imperial Fritillaria Imperialis Red, yellow 24 Guinea-hen-flower Fritillaria Meleagris Purple, green 18 Scarlet fritillary Fritillaria recurva Scariet 18 Giant snowdrop Galanthus Elwesii White 8 Snowdrop Galanthus nivalis White ee Christmas rose Helleborus niger White 6 Hyacinth Hyacinthus orientalis Various 12 Spanish iris Iris Xiphium White, blue 20 yellow English iris Iris xiphioides Purple-white 14 Golden-banded Lilium auratum White and gold 40 lily Purple trumpet Lilium Brownii Purple-white 36 lily APPENDIX 38 CO HARDY BULBOUS PLANTS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING Blooming How deep to How far season Plant apart Notes and Cultural Suggestions (inches) (inches) March 3 3 Plant in well drained soil — replant woe 3 3 every three or four years September 3 6 Plant in masses. September ~ 3 6 Prefers light, rich soil March 3 3 There is a white and very early va- riety March 3 3 Flowers with snowdrops March 3 3 Good for naturalizing in grass March 3 3 Very early species, excellent form March 3 3 Common crocus — showy and _per- manent March 1 4 Does best in partial shade April 5 8 Set bulb on side April 3 5 Several distinct forms are to be had May 3 6 Distinct from other fritillaries ey 2 3 Later in period of bloom than com- March mon variety February 2 3 Earliest spring flowers SS ag 4 12 Impatient of disturbance when es- January tablished April 5 8 Named varieties are best June 4 4 Mulch the bed in winter June 4 4 Same treatment as Spanish August 8 18 Extremely showy but short-lived. July 8 18 Excellent in border, 354 YARD AND GARDEN PLANTING TABLE OF THE BEST AND EASIEST GROWN Popular Name Botanical Name Color Gace Madonna lily Lilium candidum White 30 Canada lily Lilium Canadense Golden red 36 Orange lily Lilium croceum Orange red 36 Erect lily Lilium elegans Orange red 18 Hanson’s lily Lilium Hansoni Orange 30 Henry’s lily Lilium Henryi Red, yellow 48 White trumpet lily Lilium longiflorum White 26 Speciosum lily Lilium speciosum White, pink 36 Turk’s cap lily Lilium superbum Red, orange 50 Tiger lily Lilium tigrinum Red, purple 48 spots Star flower Milla (Triteleia) uniflora Blue 8 Grape hyacinth Muscari botryoides White, blue 6 Hoop-petticoat Narcissus Bulbocodium Light yellow ae narcissus Cup narcissus Narcissus ‘incomparabilis White, yellow 15 Jonquil Narcissus Jonquilla Yellow 12 Poet’s narcissus Narcissus poeticus White, crim- 14 5 son eye Trumpet narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus White-yellow 15 Star-of-Bethlehem Ornithogalum umbellatum White 9 Two-leaved scilla Scilla bifolia White, purple 6 Beliowered scilla -Sdilla-Hispanica’ «Bluey “paeple saan Siberian scilla Scilla Sibirica a White, blue 6 Wake Robin. .-. wEriliitmograndiforum . White. [ol et APPENDIX 085 HARDY BULBOUS PLANTS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING Blooming How deep to How far season Plant apart Notes and Cultural Suggestions (inches) (inches) June 8 12 Plant by September 15 July 6 12 Effective when massed July 8 18 Easily grown ‘July 8 12 Among the best for garden culti- vation June 6 15 Most effective in clumps August 8 18 Splendid, unconventional variety July 6 ilies Pretty in border August 8 18 Two varieties — rubrum, pink; album, white August 6 18 Useful in mixed border August 8 18 Does well in borders April-May 3 3 Plant in sheltered situations y April 3 4 Splendid when naturalized April-May 4 6 Good when massed April-May 5 6 Increases rapidly April 4 6 Fragrant April-May 5 6 Excellent for naturalizing — fra- grant eee ek 5 May fons Gre esowei. May 4 6 Excellent for early summer bloom March-April 3 4 Very hardy and early Merten eh eG Seeccal. varieties all gosd. Meret Gee. 4 Ratter when Glishdy protected > Later to bloom than S. bifolia May 4 6 One of the best wild flowers April-May 5 6 May-flowering are best for plant- ing except in formal beds 386 YARD AND GARDEN PLANTING LIST OF THE BEST Popular Name. Botanical Name Color Height (inches) Ageratum Ageratum conyzoides Blue white 4 to 10 Alyssum, sweet. Alyssum maritimum White 6 Aster, China Callistephus Chinensis Various 18 Baby’s breath, Gypsophila muralis White 24 annual Balloon vine Cardiospermum Halica- White 1LOCEt. cabum Balsam Impatiens Balsamina White, pink red, 18 yellow Bartonia Mentzelia Lindleyi Yellow 12 tod Candytuft Iberis amara Red, white — 6 Castor bean Ricinus communis ——— 5 to 8 ft. Catchfly Silene Armeria, S. pen- Red, white 12 to 18 dula 1 Chrysanthemum, Chrysanthemum corona- White, yellow 12 to 24 annual rium Clarkia Clarkia elegans ite rose, pur- 18 ple Cup and saucer Cobcea scandens Purplish white beh vine Cockscomb Celosia Red, white, yellow 6 to 12 purple wth Rn ie i ee UN a OS i Coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria Yellow, brown 12 STROSS a eee a Sr _Cornflower Centaurea Cyanus White, blue, rose 12 ne Sie oy ae Oe a ee eee Cosmos Cosmos bipinnatus White, pink, red 2% to 6 ft. a a Ee eee Cypress vine Tpomcea Quamoclit Scarlet a pahte EE Ee ee eee Daisy, Swan Brachycome iberidifolia White, blue 12 to 14 River Everlasting Xeranthemum annuum Purple APPENDIX 387 ANNUALS FOR ALL PURPOSES Distance Depth apart when Season of Bloom When to Sow to Sow. transplanted Early Late Indoors Outdoors (Inches) or thinned (inches) June July to Oct. March May i 5 July Aug. to Sept. March April yy 8 July Sept. March May yy 18 June July to Oct. March May Xy 12 Aug. ——— May %4 18 June July to Sept. April May y 18 June July to Sept. March May A 12 June to Sept. — ; April yy 8 July Grown for ornamental April May 2 36 foliage eee ae 2 ee ee ee June July and Aug, April May ._% 8 ne SS ee oe es ts July Aug. to Oct. April May a 18 Sree Ee a ee eS ee ee June July to Oct. April ; May yy 8 June ee ee Se a ee July Aug. to Oct. March May y 18 ce a ae i ie Oe va we ee ey ee June July to Oct. April May yy 8 ee ee =e ee ee ee ee ee ee June Aug. to Nov. March May 4 12 Seen ne —— June a April ly 8 coer a a ee a ee August September April May 4 30 Se ee June July April May lg 10 June July to Oct. March May y, 15 Aug. and Sept. May yy 15 388 YARD AND GARDEN PLANTING LIST OF THE Siler Popular Name - Botanical Name Color Height , (inches) Globe amaranth Gomphrena globosa Red 12 to 18 Godetia (Enothera amecena, Red, white 12 to 18 dE. Whitneyi Gourd Cucurbita Fruit 1S Ets Hop, Japanese Humulus Japonicus Foliage plant 10 to 20 ft. Hyacinth bean Dolichos Lablab White, purple 10 to 20 ft. Ice plant Mesembryanthemum White trailing vine crystallinum Immortelles Helichrysum bracteatum Yellow, orange 12 to 24 Larkspur, annual Delphinium Ajacis Red, white, blue 15 to 24 Love-lies-bleeding Amarantus caudatus Red 30 Momeerd Tagetes patula, T. erecta Orange, yellow 12 to 24 Mignonette Reseda odorata Greenish white 12 Moon-flower Ipomcea Bona-nox White 15 to SOvEt: Morning-glory Ipomcea purpurea Various ATO 2 barbs (climbing) and T. minus (dwarf) i ee ee ee nee ae Nemophila Nemophila insignis and Blue, white 12 to 30 N. Menziesii Palafoxia Polypteris Hookeriana Red 12 to 36 ee ee eee Pansy Viola tricolor Various 6 to 12 Le etree) Ge a ee ee Petunia Petunia hybrida White, magenta 12 to 24 wie eo ee ee ed Phlox, annual Phlox Drummondii Various 6 to 12 Pink, Chinese Dianthus Chinensis White and various 12 APPENDIX 389 ANNUALS FOR ALL PURPOSES Distance ; Depth apart when Season of Bloom When to Sow to Sow transplanted Early Late Indoors Outdoors (Inches) or thinned (inches) a Aug. and Sept. ——— May ly 15 a aaa eee June July to Oct. March May \% 18 April a eS Mag 1 24 erties ee April May yy 30 ey — July to Oct. a May 2 18 hhh. O00 0O08006cCc.0 July Aug. and Sept. April — May % 12 August —— May yy 12 we a a Ss eee eee June July to Sept. April May WA 10 June July April May A 18 June July to Oct. February April 7 March May \Yy 12 May and June July to Oct. March April % 10 May July Aug. and Sept. March May yy 24 Sa a June July to Oct. Marchand May yy 18 April : a ee June July and Aug. April May y% 6 June July to Oct. Marchand May 1 10 April June July to Oct. March Apriland % 6 May ee a ee — —— July to Oct. — May yy 18 May and June Sept. to Oct. Jan. and June to 1% 6 Feb. August a ee ee a ee ee re ee ea a May July to Oct. April May Sow on 12 Surface June July to Oct. Feb. Apriland 4% ae Sale May May July to Sept. Feb. and April and ds 6 March May 390 YARD AND GARDEN PLANTING LIST OF THE BEST Popular Name Botanical Name Color Height ip (inches) Poppy Papaver Various 6 to 30 Portulaca Portulaca grandiflora White, red 6 to 12 Pot Marigold Calendula officinalis Orange, yellow 12 to 24 Rhodanthe Helipterum Maneglesii Purple 18 to 24 Rose moss Lu Portulaca Salpiglossis Salpiglossis sinuata White, yellow, 20 red Stock, ten-weeks Matthiola incana, var. Various 18 annua. Sweet pea Lathyrus odoratus Various 4 to 8 ft. Sweet Sultan Centaurea moschata White, yellow, 24 purple Tarweed Madia elegans Yellow 12 to 24 Wish-bone flower Torenia Fournieri Yellow 12 to 20 Zinnia Zinnia elegans Various 12 to 36 APPENDIX O91 ANNUALS FOR ALL EURPOSES Distance Depth apart when to Sow transplanted Season of Bloom When to Sow Early Late Indoors Outdoors (inches) or thinned (Inches) June to Aug. —-—— March, Ve 12 April and May June July to Oct. Marchand May Sow on 8 April Surface June July to Oct. Marchand May 3 12 April ee Aug. and Sept. ———— May ly 18 June July to Oct. April May i 6 June July and Aug. March May A 12 July to Oct. —_— March to 3 to 4 4 June June July and Aug. Marchand May WA 12 April July to Oct. May 4 12 es July to Oct. March and ———-— Y% 12 April —_———— June to Oct. aa May Al 12 392 YARD AND GARDEN [The designs presented here are intended to assist the beginner. While their real value lies in their suggestions, all are practical and, if conditions admit of their use, can be followed in planting city yards of similar shape and size. Only those plants that are haidiest and easiest raised are advised.] DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING BORDER-PLANTING Mixed Border of Shrubs and Hardy Herbaceous Plants, Arranged According to Height, Color of Bloom and Season of Flowering: — No. on Quantity Name diagram required a 18 Aster alpinus 2 20 Campanula Carpatica 3 20 Alyssum saxatile, var. compactum 4 10 Achillea Ptarmica, var. “‘ The Pearl” 5 10 Campanula latifolia, var. macrantha 6 6 Spirea Van Houtter 7 4 Forsythia suspensa, var. Fortunei 8 6 Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora 9 2 Syringa vulgaris (lilac) 10 5 Diervilla hybrida, var. Eva Rathke iil 4 Yucca filamentosa 12 10 Iris levigata (Kempfert) 13 10 Iris Germanica 14 15 Hypericum Moserianum 15 20 Statice latifolia 16 12 Pe@onies 17 20 Phlox paniculata 18 12 Erigeron speciosus 19 24 Platycodon grandifiorum 20 12 Aruncus (Spirea) astiboides 2 12 Spirea Aruncus (Aruncus sylvester) = 10 Althea rosea ge 18 Boltonia latisquama a4 5 Bocconia cordata 25 6 Delphinium hybridum oot Straight Border of YARD AND GARDEN BORDER OF PERENNIALS the Best and MHardiest Herbaceous Perennials, Arranged to Insure Succession of Bloom:— Name No. on Season diagram of bloom a May, June, July 2 May, June 3 June, July 4 July, Aug., Sept., Oct. 5 Aug., Sept. 6 July, Aug. if sept. Oct. Soe. une dials: 9 July Auge Septe, Oct. 10 June, July afi Aug., Sept. il June, July 13 June, July 14 July, Aug. 15 June, July 16 June, July Aug., Sept. Wy April, May 18 May, June 19 July, Aug., Sept. 20 May, June, July Dil July, Aug., Sept. 22 July, Aug., Sept. 23 May, June 24 June, July 25 May, June, July 26 May, June, July, Aug. Pa June, July 28 June, July, Aug. 29 uly, Aug. 30 June, July ol April, May 32 July, Aug., Sept. SF June, July 34 June, July, Aug., ept., GE 35 May, June, July, ug. 36 May, June 37 July, Aug., Sept. Iris cristata Troliius Europeus Iris plicata Boltonia latisquama Boltonia asteroides Helianthus mollis Aster Tataricus Penstemon levigatus, Phlox paniculata var. Digitalis Ulmaria (Spirea) Filipendula Helianthus rigidus, Campanula latifolia, var. var. Campanula persicifolia Bocconia cordata Yucca filamentosa Centaurea macrocephala Phlox subulata Armeria maritima Miss Mellish macrantha Centaurea montana, var. alba Iris Germanica Silphium laciniatum Rudbeckia laciniata Baptisia australis Iris levigata (Kempferi) Aquilegia cerulea Dianthus plumarius Scabiosa Caucasica Campanula Carpatica Gypsophila paniculata Delphinium Trollius Asiaticus Statice latifolia hybridum Campanula glomerata Achillea Ptarmica, Aquilegia chrysanth Peonia Aconitum Napellus var. a “The Pearl ® 5396 No. on diagram STROM MORON WWE YARD AND GARDEN DESIGN FOR CITY YARD FRONTING EAST Quantity required 1 (J) SBmOWeHHWwWOmnwwswwr. Name Picea pungens, var. glauca Clematis Jackmani Kalmia latifolia Funka subcordata, var. grandiflora Lonicera Halliana Wistaria Chinensis Alyssum saxatile, var. compactum Paonia Spirea Van Houttei Syringa vulgaris (lilac) Spirea Bumalda, var. Anthony Waterer Berberis (Mahonia) Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandifiora Abies concolor Ligustrum ovalifolium, or var. Regelianum Myosotis palustris Phlox subulata Phlox paniculata Iris pumila Dianthus barbatus Iris Germanica Hardy ferns Dianthus plumarius Lychnis Viscaria, var. splendens Thalictrum aquilegifolium Delphinium formosum Iris levigata (Kempferi) Gypsophila paniculata Armeria maritima Physostegia Virginiana Platycodon grandiflorum Stokesia cyanea Centaurea montana Hardy ferns Aquilegia cerulea Campanula Carpatica Campanula persicifolia Hardy ferns 597 XxX APPENDI 398 YARD AND GARDEN DESIGN FOR CITY CORNER YARD No. on Number diagram required 1 75 2 1 3 2 4 4 5 50 6 2 a 12 8 24 9 12 10 18 11 14 12 20 13 12 14 12 15 12 16 12 aly, 12 18 24 19 15 20 6 21 100 22 9 23 att 24 2 25 3 26 1 27 = Name Coreopsis lanceolata Wistaria Chinensis Lonicera Halliana Rose, Crimson Rambler Hemerocallis fulva - Picea pungens, var. glauca Phlox paniculata Aconitum autumnale Iris levigata (Kempferi) Delphinium hybridum German iris Althea rosea, single Peonia Bocconia cordata Trollius Europeus Boltonia asteroides Campanula latifolia, var. macrantha Rudbeckia, Golden Glow Statice latifolia Yucca filamentosa Berberis Thunbergii Maples (Thin when crowding begins) Syringa vulgaris (lilac) Spirea Van Houttei Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora Forsythia suspensa, var. Fortunei Hardy ferns (Space is left at the point A to allow entrance to the lawn.) APPENDIX 400 No. on diagram YARD AND GARDEN DESIGN FOR CITY YARD FRONTING WEST Quantity required Name of plant Picea pungens, var. glauca Pseudotsuga Douglasii Spirea Van Houtter Kalmia_ latifolia Berberis (Mahonia) Aquifolium Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora Iris Germanica Clematis paniculata Lonicera Halliana Hardy ferns Armeria maritima Ulmaria (Spirea) Filipendula Alyssum saxatile Sedum spectabile Thalictrum aquilegifolium Dianthus barbatus Funkia subcordata, var. grandiflora Helenium autumnale, var. superbum Statice latifolia Achillea Ptarmica, var. ‘‘ The Pearl” Althea rosea Bocconia cordata Delphinium formosum Iris levigata (Kempferi) Physostegia Virginiana Peonia Phlox paniculata Hibiscus Moscheutos, var. Crimson Eve Campanula persicifolia Veronica longifolia, var. subsessilis Berberis Thunbergti Azalea amena Funkia cerulea Iris. pumila Hardy ferns APPENDIX See 402 YARD AND GARDEN DESIGN COMBINING ORNAMENT AND UTILITY No. on Quantity Name diagram required i 200 Ligustrum ovalifolium 3 Pe@onia 30 Phlox paniculata 3 4 Rose; Dorothy Perkins 4 6 Clematis paniculata 5 1 Lenicera, var. Halliana 6 3 Grape if Se Currants, blackberries or raspberries 8 =f Bed of annuals 9 2 Dwarf fruit trees 403 APPENDIX ye ol PES ped he INDEX INDEX Abutilon, 133, 351 Acer platanoides, 289 saccharinum, 289 saccharum, 289 Achillea, illus. 139 Ptarmica, var. “ The Pearl,” 162 Aconitum autumnale, Fischeri, 164 Napellus, illus. 161 Actinidia arguta, 95 Adiantum cuneatum, 356 Adonis vernalis, 159 Aisculus Hippocastanum, 289 Agapanthus, 235 Ailanthus glandulosa, 289 Akebia quinata, 95 Alstroemeria, 235 Althea rosea, 162 Althea, shrubby, 264 Alyssum saxatile, 159 (see Sweet alyssum) Amelanchier, 264 Ampelopsis, illus. 89 quinquefolia, 87 Veitch, 94 Andromeda _ floribunda, 263 Anemone Japonica, 166 Pennsylwanica, 169 Annuals, 99 Beds for, 108 Cultivation indoors, 105 General classification of, 100 Half-hardy, 101 Hardy, 101, 114 166 256, Location of beds for, 114 Planting indoors, 102 Planting outdoors, 113, 115 Selection of varieties of, 119 Soil for, 110 Sowing in flats, 103 Support for, 116 Tender, 101 Transplanting, Watering, 117 Weeding, 116 Anthemis tinctoria, illus. 152, 162 Antirrhinum, illus. Apios tuberosa, 239 Aquilegia, illus. 139, 159, 160 cerulea, 151 Canadensis, 159 Arabis albida, 159 Ardisia, 351 Aristolochia macrophylla, 88 Armeria maritima, 160 Aruncus astilboides, illus. 155 Asclepias tuberosa, 164 Ash, 289 Ashes, wood, 58 Asparagus, 133, 351 Asplenium, 356 Aster Amellus, 164 China, illus. 105, 120 Nove-Anglie, 164 Stoke’s, illus. 147 (see Stokesia) Tataricus, 166 Astilbe Japonica, 160 Aubrietia deltoidea, 159 105 105, 133 407 408 Aucuba, 351 Auraearia, 351 Azalea, illus. 258; 266, 264, 350 Indica, illus. 333 Balloon flower, illus. 148 (see Platycodon) Balsam, 120 Baptisia australis, 160 Barberry (see Berberis) Bee Balm, 148 Beech, 289 Begonia, 133, 351, 352 Rex, illus. 336 Tuberous, illus. 235, 236 Belemcanda Chinensis, 162 Bellflower, 151 Bellis perennis, 159 Berberis, 263, 265 Aquifolium, 256, 263 vulgaris, 264 Bermuda grass, 69 Bessera, 235 Biennials, 99 Bitter sweet, False, 95 Blue-grass, Kentucky, 53-55 Bocconia cordata, 164 Boltonia asteroides, 159, 164 latisquama, 164 Bone meal, 58 Boston ivy, 194 Bouvardia, 351 Boxes, porch, 120 window, 120 Bridal wreath, illus. 241 Browallia, 351 Buckthorn, 265 Bulboecodium, 188 Bulbous plants, 170 (see Bulbs) Bulbs, 170 Arrangement of, 188, 190 Classification of, 171 178; 133, illus. INDEX Cultivation of, 179 Depth to plant, 214 Dividing, 184 Hardy, 173, 186, 194 In beds, 189 In borders, 180 Indoors, 339, 346 In lawn, 187 Lifting, 184 Planting, 178, 182, 190 Preparation of beds 176 Spring flowering, 209 Succession of bloom of, 175 | Tender, 175, 235 Value of, 173 Winter protection of, 183 Buttonbush, 264 Buttonwood, 289 for, Caladium, 133, 235 Calendula, 114, 120 officinalis, illus. 116 Calimeris incisa, 160, 162 Calopsis, 114, 120 Calla, 235 Callirhoe involucrata, 160 Calycanthus floridus, 263 Camelia, 351 Campanula alliariaefolia, 162 Carpatica, 160 glomerata, 162 persicifolia, 160 pyramidalis, 151, 164 Trachelium, 162 Canada lily, illus. 185 Candytuft, 120 Canna, illus. 235 (see Richardia) Carnation, 351 Catchfly, illus. 137 Ceanothus Americanus, 264 Celastrus scandens, 95 Cephalanthus occidentalis, 264 176 and 181; INDEX Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, 164 Chelone Lyoni, 164 obliqua, 164 Chestnut, horse, 289 China aster, illus. 105; 120 Chinese sacred lily, 348 Chionodoxa, 188 Depth to plant, 214 gigantea, 212 grandiflora, 212 Sardensis, 212 Chrysanthemum, 164, 166, 350 frutescens, illus. 330 Leucanthemum, 162 maximum, 162 Chrysogonum 160 Cimicifuga racemosa, 162 Cineraria, 351 Cinnamon vine, 95, 238 Cinquefoil, 263 Clarkia, 120 Clay (see Soil) Clematis, 91 Davidiana, 164 Diseases of, 92 Flammula, 92 Henryi, 94 Jackmani, illus. 84; 92 paniculata, 92 recta, 160 Soil for, 91 Clethra alnifolia, 263, 264 Climbers (see Vines) For indoor gardens, 351 Climbing fern, 350, 367 Climbing roses, 90 (see Roses) Cobea scandens, 351 Cockseomb, 120 Coleus, 133 Color of flowers, 40 Columbine, illus. 139; 151 (see Aquilegia) Virginianum, 300, 409 Conoclinium coclestinum, 164 - Convallaria majalis, 159 Cooperia, 235 Coreopsis, 120 lanceolata, 160 Corm (see Bulbs) Cornelian cherry, 265 Cornflower, 1]4 Cornus, 263, 264 Coronilla varia, 160 Corylus, 264 Crab-grass, 68 Crimson Rambler, 90 Crocus, 188, 212 Depth to plant, 214 Croton, 133 Crytonium, 356 Cupheas, 351 Currant, wild, 263 Cyanea Stokesia, illus. 147 Cycas revoluta, 351 Cyclamen, 351 Cydonia Japonica, 263, 264 Daffodil (see Narcissus ) Dahlia. alhuss bre- 235; Single, illus. 189 Dandelions in lawn, 66 Daphne, 264 Day lily, illus. 166 (see Hemerocallis ) Delphinium formosum, 160 grandiflorum, 162 hybridum, illus. Deutzia, 253, 264 gracilis, 263 seabra, 263 Dianthus barbatus, illus. 154; 160 plumarius, 160 Dicentra eximia, 160 spectabile, 159 Dictmanus albus, Diervilla, 264 Digitalis ambigua, 162 monstrosa, illus. 161 236 150 160 410 purpurea, 160 Dioscorea divaricata, 95 Diseases, 309, 323 Catalogue of, 324 Remedies for, 324, 327 Dogwood, 263 Doronicum plantigineum, 159 Dracena, 351 Dragon-head, False, illus. 154 Drainage, 303 Dutchman’s pipe, 88 Easter lily, 346 Echinacea purpurea, 162 Eleagnus longipes, 265 Elder, 264 Elm, 289 English ivy, 350 Eranthis hyemalis, 213 Depth to plant, 214 Erigeron speciosus, 160 Eryngium amethystinum, 162 Erythronium, illus. 196 Euonymus, 265, 351 Japonicus, 257 radicans, 95 Eupatorium ageratoides, 164 Euphorbia corolotta, 162 Factory grounds planted, 18 Fagus ferruginea, 289 False bitter sweet, 95 False dragon-head, illus. 154 Farfugium, 351 Ferns, 364 Best varieties, 367 Boston, 356 Christmas, 367 Cinnamon, 367 Clayton’s, 367 Climbing, 350, 367 Culture of, 356 Ebony, 356, 367 Evergreen, 367 For indoor garden, 351, 356 For porch boxes, 133 Goldie’s, 367 INDEX Gossamer, 367 Hardy, 364 Holly, 356 Kidney, 356 Lace, illus. 354; 367 Lady, 367 Maidenhair, illus. 355; 356, 367 New York, 367 Ostrich, illus. 366; 367 Pests of, 356 Pierson, 356 Royal, 367 Seott, 356 Sensitive, 367 Shield, 367 Situation for, 364 Soil for, 366 Sword, 356 Walking, 367 Fertilizers, 293 Animal manures, 303 Bone meal, 58, 307 For lawns, 46, 56 For porch boxes, 131 For potted plants, 337 For vines, 84 Lime, 59 Liquid, 132, 305, 307 Muriate of potash, 307 Nitrate of soda, 58, 307 Soot, 305 Wood ashes, 58, 307 Festuca glauca, 351 Ficus elastica, 351 Filbert, 264 Flats, 103 Fleur-de-lis (see [ris) Formal city garden, illus. 3 Forsythia, 253 suspensa, 264 Foxglove, illus. 161 (see Digitalis) Fraxinus Americana, 289 Freesia, illus. 347 In pots, 347 INDEX Fuchsia, 133, 351 Fungicides, 327 Fungus (see Diseases ) Funkia, illus. 166 Fortunei, iilus. 306, 162 lancifolia, 162 ovata, 162 subcordata, 164 Gaillardia aristata, 160, 164 Galanthus, 210 Depth to plant, 214 Gardening, 4 Geranium, illus. 350; 133, 351 Geranium sanguineum, 160 German iris, 160, 161 Geum coccineum, 160 montanum, 160 Ginkgo biloba, 289 Gladiolus, illus. 206; 235, 236 Glechoma, 133 Globe-flower, illus. 141 (see Trollius) Glory-of-the-snow (see Chion- odoxa) Goldenbell, 264 Golden glow, 158 (see Rudbeckia) Grass (see Lawns) For elay soil, 55 For lawns, 55 For sandy soil, 55 For shaded spots, 55 For terraces, 55 Greviliea robusta, 351 Gypsophila paniculata, 162 Hamamelis, 254 Height of plants, 40 Helenium, 164 Hoopesii, 160 Helianthus, 164 Heliopsis levis, 162 Heliotrope, 133, 351 Helloborus niger, 159 orientalis, 159 411 * Hemerocallis, illus. 166, 162 Dumortierti, 160 Hepatica triloba, 159 Heuchera sanguinea, 162 Hibiscus, 351 Moscheutus, illus. 143, 164 Syriacus, 264 Honeysuckle, illus. 93 (see Lonicera) Bush, 264 Humus (see Soil) Hyacinth, illus. 201; 194 Best varieties of, 202 For pots, 343 In water, 344 Named varieties of, 200 Planting of, 200 Preparation of beds for, 201 Roman, 344 Winter protection of, 200 Hyacinthus candicans, 237 Hydrangea, illus. 244; 254 hortensis, illus. 353 paniculata, 264 Hypericum aureum, 263 prolificum, 264 Iberis sempervirens, 160 Indoor gardens (see Window gardens) Insecticides, 313, 321 Insects, 309 Chewing, 310 Destruction of, 310 Lists of, 313 Sucking, 310 Inula ensifolia, 162 Iris, 219 Bulbous, 224 cristata, 232 Division of, 234 Dwarf varieties of, 231 English (see J. xiphioides) Florentina, 233 Germanica, illus, 230; 160, 161, 230 412 Japanese (see J. levigata) Kempferi (see 1. levigata) levigaia, illus. 221; 161, 227 Oncocyclus, 220 pallida, 233 Planting, 234 Pseudacorus, 161, 233 pumila, 231 reticuiata, 226 Rhizomatous, 227 Sibirica, illus. 230 and 234; 161, 233 Spanish (see J. Xiphium) Susiana, 220 Varieties of, 219, 223 verna, 159, 232 aciphioides, illus. 234; 2 Xiphium, illus. 225; 22 Ivy, Boston, 94 English, 350 Kenilworth, 351 Parlor, 350 Japanese Iris (see I. levi- gata) Japanese quince, 263, 264 Japanese rose, 263 Juneberry, 264 Kalmia latifolia, illus. 255; 256, 263, 264. Kenilworth ivy, 351 Kentucky blue-grass, 53 Kerria Japonica, 263 Kerria, white, 264 Kniphofia aloides, illus. 185 Kudzu vine, 239 Lantana, weeping, 133 Larkspur, illus. 150 (see Delphinium) Lavendula vera, 168 Lawns, 44 Autumn spading, 48 Bone meal for, 58 INDEX Fertilizing, 45, 48, 56 Insects attacking, 71 Lime for, 59 Moles in, 71 Mowing, 60 Nitrate of soda for, 58 Preparation of soil for, 44- 48 Renovating old, 73 Rolling, 59 Seed for, 52-55 Sowing of, 52 Top-dressing of, 58 Turf for, 49 Watering, 63 ‘ Weeds in, 66 Wood ashes on, 58 Leaf mold (see Soil) Leucojum vernum, 210 Depth to plant, 214 liatris graminifolia, 164 spicata, 164 Ligustrum, 263 Lilae (see Syringa) Inlium, 214 auratum, 215, 217 Batemannie, 215, 21 Best varieties of, 21 Brown, 215, 217 Canadense, illus. 185; 217 candidum, illus. 191; 217 Chalcedonicum, 217 croceum, 217 Depth to plant, 218 Elegans, illus. 216 excelsum, 217 Hansoni, 217 Harristi, 346 Henryi, 215, 217 Japonicum, illus. 187, 215 Krameri, illus. 187 longiflorum, 215 Martagon, 217 Pardalinum, 217 Philadelphicum, 217 Season for planting, 215 INDEX 413 Soil for, 214, 217 speciosum, 217 superbum, 217 Thunbergianum, illus. 216; 217 Tigrinum, illus. 211, 217 umbellatum, 217 Value of, 214 Wallacei, 217 Washingtonianum, 217 Lily (see Lilium) Lime, 59 Linden, 289 Liriodendron tulipifera, 289 Lobelia cardinalis, 164 syphilitica, 164 Location of house, 26 Lonicera, 94, 265 Halliana, illus. 93; 94 Japonica, 94 sempervirens, 94 Tatarica, 264 Lychnis Chacedonica, 163 Coronaria, 161 Vespertina, 163 Viscaria, var. splendens, Hlyse 13is 16% Lygodium, 350, 356 Lysimachia clethroides, 163 nummularia, 161 punctata, 161 Madeira vine, 235, 238, 351 Madonna lily, illus. 191 (see Lilium) Mahernia odorata, 351 Mahonia (see Berberis Aqut- folium ) Maidenhair fern (see fern) tree, 289 Manettia, 133 Manure (see fertilizer) Maple, 289 Marguerite, illus. 152; 351 Mass planting, 38 Maurandya, 133, 350 Mesembryanthemum, 351 Mignonette, 114 Mock orange (see Philadel- phus ) Monarda didyma, illus. 148 Monkshood, illus. i61 (see Aconitum Montbretia, illus. 206; 235, 237 Morning glory, 96, 114 Japanese, 133 Mountain fetter bush, 264 Mountain laurel (see Aal- mia ) Nasturtium, 96, 120, 133 Narcissus, illus. 170 and 199; 194, 340 Barrii, 198 Best varieties of, 197 Colors of, 195 Double, 200 For outdoor planting, 197 incomparabilis, 198 In pots, 340 Leedsii, 200 Naturalizing, 195 Paper white, illus. 341; 342 poeticus, illus. 196; 195, 200 Season for planting, 196 Trumpet, 197 Value of, 194 Nephrolepis, 356 Nitrate of soda (see Fertili- ZeYs Oak, 289 @nothera fruticosa, 161, 163 Missouriensis, 163 speciosa, 163 Oleaster, 265 Orchard grass, 69 Oriental poppy, illus. 145 (see Papaver) Osier, red, 265 414 Oxalis, 235 Peonia, illus. 369; 367 Best varieties of, 373 Colors of, 36% For cut flowers, 374 List of, 373 Moutan, illus. 372; Mulch for, 368 officinalis, 160 Sensitive varieties of, 371 Single, illus. 371 Soil for, 368 tenuifolia, 160 Tree (see P. Moutan) Value of, 367 Palms, 351, 352 Pandanus, 351, 354 Papaver nudicaule, illus. 145; 161 orientale, illus. 145; 161 Paris daisy, illus. 330; 351 Parlor ivy, 350 Peat (see Soil) Pentstemon barbatus, 163 laevigatus, 161 ovatus, 163 Peony (see Pawonia) Perennials, hardy herbaceous, 99, 134 Arrangement of, 167 Best varieties of, 157 Classification of, 134 Cultivation of, 167 Division of, 151, 152 Number of varieties, 136 Planting, 142 Preparation of beds for, 144 Propagation by cuttings, 156 Raising from seed, 148 Short-lived, 151 Succession of bloom of, 158 Watering of, 168 Winter protection of, 140 With shrubs, 169 264 INDEX Petunia, illus. 114; 114, 120, 351 Philadelphus, 259, 264 Phlox, 374 Annual, illus. 100; 120 Best varieties of, 377 Cultivation of, 376 decussata, 376 divaricata, illus. 377; 160 Drummondiu, illus. 100; 133 Dwarf varieties of, 378 Lists o£; 377 Mulch for, 376 paniculata, illus. 375; 163, 164, 376, 378 Planting, 376 subulata, 160 suffruticosa, 376, 377 Physostegia Virginiana, illus. 154; 164 Pieris floribunda, 264 Mariana, 264 Pilea arborea, 351 Pink (see Dianthus) Annual, 120 Pinus Mughus, 264 Planning, 12 Before building, 25 Conditions governing, 24 Drawing to scale, 21 Elementary, 22 For harmonious effect, 37 On paper before planting, 35 Principles of, 13 Plans (see planning) How to draw, 35 What to include in, 36 Plantain in lawns, 66 Plantain lily, illus. 166 (see Funkia) Plantanus accidentalis, 289 Planting, examples of, 19 256, 263, INDEX Platycodon grandiflorum, illus. 148; 163 Plum, 264 Polemonium ceruleum, 160 Poplar, 289 Poppy, 114, 120 (see Papaver ) Ieeland, 151 Oriental, illus. 145 Shirley, illus. 110 Populus alba, 289 Porch boxes, 120 Construction of, 128 Dimensions of, 127 Fertilizer for, 131 Plants for, 132 Soil for, 130 Uses of, 123 Value of, 121 Watering, 132 Portulaca, 120 Potentilla fruticosa, 263 Pot marigold, illus. 116; 120 Potting, 235 Primrose, 351 Primula, 160, 352 Principles of planning, 31 Privet, 263 Prunus, 264 Purpose of a yard, 16 Pyrethrum roseum, 161 Quercus palustris, 289 rubra, 289 Rambler, Crimson, 90 Ramblers (see vines) Red root, 264 Repotting, 235 Rhamnus, 265 Rhododendron, 255, 264 Catawbiense, 264 Ritodotypos, 264 Rhus, 254 Ribes floridum, 263 illus. . 260; Richardia, 235, 351 Roman hyacinths (see Hyacinth ) Roses, 357 Bourbon, 363 Climbing, 90, 364 Crimson Rambler, 90 Dorothy Perkins, 90 Fertilizer for, 361 For shrubberies, 364 Gen. Jacqueminot, 359; 362, 363 Grafted, 358 Hardy perpetual, 362 Hybrid perpetual, 363 Hybrid tea, 363 Japanese, 263 Noisette, 364 On own roots, 358 Planting of, 357 Pruning of, 361 Tea, 364 Trellis, 363 Wichuraiana, 90 Winter protection of, 360 Rubus, 265 Rudbeckia, 166 laciniata (golden illus.. 158; 164 triloba, 164 Rules for planting, 31 illus. glow) St. John’s Wort, 263, 264 Salix alba, 289 Sambucus, 264, 265 Sanguinaria Canadensis, 159 Scabiosa, annual, 120 Caucasica, 161 Scilla, 210 Ameena, 188 Depth to plant, 214 Sibirica, 210 Screw pine, 354 Sedum. spectabile, 166 Selaginella denticulata, 351 Senecio, 350 416 mikanioides, 351 pulcher, 166 Shasta daisy, illus. 163 (see Chrysanthemum ) Shirley’ poppy, illus. 163 (see Papaver ) Shrubs, 240 Blooming in spring, 264 Blooming two months, 263 Compared to trees, 243 Cultivation of, 252 Effectiveness of, 245 Evergreen, 255, 264 For city yard, 257 For shaded situations, 263 Grouping of, 246, 252 List of best hardy, 263 Planting of, 251 Pruning of, 252 Spraying, 261 Uses of, 248 Value of, 248, 254 Varieties of, 253 When to plant, 261 Winter protection of, 252 With ornamental fruit, 265 With variegated foliage, 264 Silene, 120 Smilax, 351 Smoke bush, (see Rhus) Snapdragon, illus. 105; 133 (see Antirrhinum ) Snowball, 264 (see num ) Snowberry, 263, 265 Snowdrop, 188 (see Galanthus) Snowflake, 188 (see Lewcojum) Sod for lawns, 50 (see Lawns) Soil, 293 Clay, 296 Composition of, 295 Cultivation of, 301 Virbur- INDEX Fertilizing of, 303 Good garden, 298 Humus, 296 Leaf mold, 296 Mixtures of, 297 Peat, 296 Trenching of, 302 Solidago, 166 Soot (see Fertilizers ) Specimen planting, 32 Npirea, 253, 260, 264 Aruncus, illus. 155; 161] Filipendula, illus. 135; 162 lobata, 163 palmata, 162 prunifolia, 260 Thunbergii, 260 Van Houttei, 260 Squill (see Scilla) Stachys Betonica, 163 Stagger-bush, 264 Statice Tatarica, 163 Stocks, illus. 110; 120 Stoke’s aster, illus. 147; 163 Stokesia cyanea, illus. 147; 163 Strawberry bush, 265 Summer hyacinth, 237 Sunflower, 114, 120 Swainsonia, 351 Swamp Rose, illus. 143 Sweet alyssum, 114, 120, 351 Sweet-peas, illus. 112; 120 Sweet pepper, 263, 264 Sweet-scented shrub, 263 Sweet sultan, 114 Sweet William, illus. 143 Sycamore, 289 Symphoricarpos, 263 racemosus, 265 Syringa (see Philadelphus) Syringa, 253, 259 vulgaris, 264 illas.=< 2a; Tecoma radicans, 96 INDEX Thalictrum 162 Thermopsis Carotiniana, 162 Thunbergia, 133 Thunbergian lily, illus. 216 Tiger lily, illus. 211 Tigridia, 235 Tilia Americana, 289 vulgaris, 289 Torch lily, illus. 185 T'radescantia, 351 Virginiana, 163 Trees, 266 Bordering parks, 271 Bordering streets, 272 Cultivation of, 284 Enemies of, 290 Evergreen, 285 How to plant, illus. 267 In city yards, 266, 274 Insect pests of, 291 Objection to, 240 Of Heaven, 289 Planting. 283 Pranme, 275; 277 Transplanting of, 277, 281 Varieties of, 288 Watering, 285 Wrong use of, 268 Trellises, 97 Trenching, 302 Trillium erectum, 159 Trollius Europeus, illus. 141; 160, 162 Trumpet creeper, 95 Tuberose, 235 Tuberous-rooted plants, 170 (see Bulbs) Tulip, 194, 203 Bizarre, 208 Breeder, 208 Byblemen, 208 Classification of, 205 Darwin, 208 Double, 205, 206 Early single, 205 aquilegifolium, 417 Florist, 208 For pots, 346 In borders, 204 Lifting, 204 May-flowering, illus. 4174 and 203; 207 Mother, 208 Parrot, illus. 203; 206 Preparation of beds 204 Rose, 208 Season for planting, 203 Self, 208 Show, 208 Winter protection of, 204 Tulip tree, 289 Turf for lawns, 49 Laying of, 50 Watering, 50 for, Ulmaria illus. 135 (see Spirea Filipendula) Ulmus Americana, 289 campestris, 289 Umbrella plant, 133 Filipendula, Vernonia Arkansana, 164 Veronica, illus, 165 longifolia, 163, 164 rupestris, 162 Virginica, 163 Viburnum, 259, 264 lantana, 265 opulus, 265 plicatum, 260 Vinca, 133, 351 Vines, 75 Annual, 80, 96 Bulbous, 238 Classification of, 77 Cultivation of, 82 Fertilizers for, 84 For indoor gardens, 301 Perennial, 80, 87 390, 418 Pruning of, 85 Soil for, 81 Supports for, 97 Uses of, 76 Value of, 75 Varieties of, 87-98 Violet, 351 Virginia creeper, 87 Walks, 28 Course of, 29 Planning of, 34 Wayfaring tree, 265 Weeds, in lawns, 66 Weigelia, 264 Wichuraiana rose, 90 Willow, 289 Window boxes, 120 Window garden, 329 Bulbs for, 339, 346 Ferns for, 356 Fertilizer for, 337 Flowers for, 348, 350, 351 Foliage plants for, 348, 351 Hyacinths for, 343 INDEX Location of, 332 Narcissi for, 340 Plants for, 339 Potting, 335 Repotting, 335 Soil for, 332 Sunless, 351 Temperature of, 348 Tulips for, 346 Watering, 336 Vines for, 350, 351 Winter aconite, 188 (see Hranthis) Wistaria Chinensis, 95 multijuga, 9d speciosa, 95 Witch-hazel (see hamamelis) Wolfberry, 263 Wood ashes, 58 (see Fertilizer) Woodbine, illus. 89; 88 Zephyranthes, 235 Zinnia, illus, 102; 120 rt lial ae peal @ y Pipi ~ ed ; vi 1 = i j _ Wis aah . ae: sees : j 1 r a) un’ 14 4 / LIBRARY OF NATTY 0 009260559 | | CONGRESS |