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YARD AND GARDEN
A Book of Practical Information for the Amateur Gardener in City, Town or
Suburb
By TARKINGTON BAKER
Illustrated with Photographs and Diagrams
INDIANAPOLIS THE BOBBS-MERRILL COMPANY PUBLISHERS
CopyRricHutT 1908 THE Bospsps-MERRILL COMPANY
FEBRUARY
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jEIBEARY of GONGHES Two Gcogies Receives
| MAR 21-1908 Kcr
Gopyirges cnu'y War 2 1408 iowa he a v
| 2°cbeY Ad
PRESS OF BRAUNWORTH & CO. BOOKBINDERS AND PRINTERS BROOKLYN,.N. Y.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I THe Yarp II PLanniInG THE GARDEN - {II How To Pian - 2 , IV Lawns . : : : : VMONAINER: - 3 é : : : VI AwnnvalLs : : : ‘ VII Harpy PERENNIALS
VIII Some PorunarR PERENNIALS
IX Butsous- anp TuBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS
X Some PorutarR Harpy Buss XI Irises anD TENDER BuLBs . AIT SHRUES : - e ° Sib Tene. : ; . ° XIV Sor anp FERTILIZERS. .
XV_ INSECTs AND DISEASES
XVI THE INDOOR WiInTER Wtnpow GARDEN
XVII <A CuHapTER OF SPECIALTIES APPENDIX ‘ ; : .
INDEX ; : s
134 157 170 194 219 240 266 293 309 329 357 379 405
ch ah ie 14
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Cottage home in a city with yard ornamented with plants —Frontispiece Small space of city yard converted into formal garden . 3 Beginning the improvement ofa city back-yard : ; 9 The same yard three months later . ‘ ; ‘ : 9 Making the most of meager space for flowers ; i es Grounds of a factory ornamented with plants ; any ue Example of planting in limited space a a cay 2) Side-yard planned and planted by the owner . ; ae pee Elaborate planting in city yard—pergola in center ee Example of simple but effective planting : Y ates Yard-planting in which tree is made the center : 2 ao Wall-planting—result of careful planning : ‘ > 43 Hedge of privet as a city yard boundary : : tay Sun-dial in corner of city lawn ; ; ‘ é ah * 50 Hedge of climbing roses defining limit of lawn é hp y | Colony of iris established in lawn . : , ; wk Unsightly corner of yard ornamented with plants . : » Garden seat at end of small city lawn ; é a yeas | Wild grape from woods in city yard bth) a : Pe, Flowers of the clematis. : : : - : Ba 3
City residence covered with woodbine .. ‘ . 99 Flowers of the fragrant honeysuckle : ‘ : . 8
Annual phlox . j : : ; : . : 2 00 Single and double zinnias : ‘ : ; : 2 502 Snapdragon ; i : : ; ; ; : »~ 305 China aster : : ‘ : : : ‘ 3 = 105 Transplanting seedlings to ‘‘thumb-pots”’ A ‘ . LOT Stocks ; : ; ‘ ; . : ; : ae 8). Shirley poppies . z : . ] s 210 Sweet peas : ; ; at
Petunias , , ; ; ; ae
LIST OF ILLUSTRA TIONS— Continued
PAGE
Pot marigold : ; : : : : - - «7406
Sowing seeds of annuals. ' : : - - es Plants in porch box combined with hardy ferns to make
solid wall of foliage and flower . : : : . aa
Porch boxes filled with plants suitable for eastern exposure : = : : : , : : - 124
Porch box newly started but with plants in bloom . a LG Effective grouping of single plants . , , : «Ae Porch boxes exposed to full sunlight : : : mee 8 Meadow Sweet . : : : : ; : : » les Catchfly : : ‘ ‘ : - : : : Paes | Achillea A - . . 2 : : ; - Ae
Columbine ‘ : ‘ x 5 5 A - 139 Globe Flower . c s c E . - « at Swamp rose : 5 ° , ‘ . . - » 143
Oriental poppy . ; - s ° . . . - 145 Stoke’s aster : 5 ° : ° . ° : . 147 Bee Balm . Z “ ° . . . ° . . 148 Balloon Flower . ; A . . : . - . 148 Larkspur . - : - 5 . ° ° . >, 150 Golden Marguerite . 5 . : . . . . 152 Sweet William . : : : : : : ‘ . 154 False Dragon-head . : ° ° . . . . 154 Spirsea : 5 : , “ A ° ‘ « lS Golden Glow . * “ ; 2 ° ° : . bs
Boltonia : : 5 : e - . : ‘ . 159 Monkshood : : : : . ‘ : : «dot Foxglove. : : : ° ; . : : » S6L Chrysanthemum, ‘‘Shasta Daisy” . . : : «163 Veronica. : : : : : . , : « G5
Plantain lily : : : a - : . : Pie! 6 Yellow Day lily . : : ; - : : ; . 166
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued
PAGE Transplanting hardy perennials : ‘ ‘ A 3: GE Narcissus days in a city yard garden ; : : 7 koe May-flowering tulips on Decoration Day . ; ; . 174
Dahlia ‘ ; : : ‘ ‘ F ‘ : pe 1G Canna ‘ : ; = : ; : ‘ ‘ 2.196 Flowers of tuberous-rooted begonia . : ; . Lis Flower of the canna . : : : : : F 161 Torch lily . - ; ; : : : : : - 185 Canada lily : : - ; ° i . ‘ » 285 Kramer’s lily : ; : 2 5 : = : - 187
Single dahlias. : : ‘ . ° : : «_ 489 Madonna lily : : : : “ ; - : « 491 Erythronium ? : : ° - : ; : « 186 Poet’s narcissus . : ‘ ; ‘ ; = : . 196 Trumpet varieties of narcissus . x ° 2 «ago Hyacinths . : 3 : : - : . : . 201 Parrot tulips : ; : : ° ° . ; » 203 May-flowering tulips . : . ° . : : -. 203 Gladiolus. é : elias ee a : - : - 206 Montbretia - - ° . . = ° : . 206 Tiger lily . e : ° . ° . ° : 5 ed Thunbergian lily : - . ° 5 . 216 Japanese iris : : ° . . ° ; : ook Spanish iris : ee , : . * : .. 225 White Siberianiris . - ° : . : : . 230 German iris : : : Z ° ° : ; . 230 Siberian iris : ; ; “ : - ; - . 234 English iris ; ; : - - ° ; : . 234 Bridal Wreath . ? : ‘ : ° : ; . 241 Hydrangea laden with flowers . - : P : . 244 Blossom of the tree peony in early spring - d . 247 Shrubbery walk in small city yard . ‘ ‘ j . 249
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued
Flowers of the Mountain Laure]
Hardy azalea in bloom
Rhododendron in bloom
Flowers of the tall-growing Bird Cherry Planting a tree
Tree that has never been pruned
Trees ruined by ignorant pruner
Fruit trees for shade and fruit in city yard Effective grouping of evergreen trees Decorative value of the haw
Colony of Sedum spectabile in poor soil
Blue Day lily growing in soil which the owner considered
‘‘impossible’’ Spraying easily done in the average re ann Typical chewing insect (Cecropia moth) San José scale Oyster shell scale Fall web-worm Scurfy scale Work of the catalpa aes oe Paris daisies , Root growth of narcissus Azalea Indica in bloom Ornamental-foliaged begonia Foliage plants suitable for a window garden Paper white narcissus
Hyacinths, cyclamen and lily, products of a sunny window garden
Freesias in bloom f Group of plants suitable for shaded window Geraniums in bloom indoors in mid-winter
Tender hydrangea
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued
PAGE Lace fern. 3 é , ; P ; : : . 304 The Maidenhair fern : ; ; ‘ ; ; . 300 Rose—General Jacqueminot. r Z . : . 3809 Border of hardy ferns as screen for foundation : - 300 Ostrich ferns in narrow border : - P : - 366 Double peony. A ; : : ‘ : ; . 309 Single peonies. ‘ : : : : ; : ee
Flowers of the tree peony . : . : j ‘ . 312 Hardy phlox : : . : : : : : » 310 Wild Sweet William . : : ° : - : «ott
YARD AND GARDEN
YARD AND GARDEN
CEAPR TE:
THE YARD
The owner of a city or town lot, of a subur- ban home or of a country estate is usually interested in affairs which he considers more important, or at least more practical, than the abstract principles of gardening, no matter in what form they are presented or what applica- tion is to be made of them. His immediate re- quirement, if his attention be directed at all toward the subject, is practice and not theory. He wants planting and not principle; his main desire is to employ the speediest and safest process to make his yard, his grounds or his estate—if we can distinguish property sizes by these common though vague terms—as harmo- niously and effectively beautiful as_ trees, shrubs, plants and vines and his financial re- sources will permit.
In a sense he is justified and, in any event,
1
2 YARD AND GARDEN
he is but responding to a common and natural impulse, to obtain for himself that which has pleased or interested him. He is impatient of theory and eager for results. Disquisitions on the fundamental laws of gardening or land- seaping are tedious if not perplexing and, in his judgment, of little value. His conclusion may be hasty but to some extent it is entirely eorrect. There are no hard and fast rules for gardening and particularly for the art of orna- mental gardening, whether it be conducted on large or small scale, on a country estate or the back-yard of a city lot.
There are some principles best remembered but even they are not without innumerable va- riation in application. In gardening, as in house building, individual taste, temper and aspirations are reflected and each garden, con- sequently, is a law unto itself. Still, under- neath this disclosure of the gardener’s own nature and individuality there are broad princi- ples, applicable to all and the foundation .of all. They are simple, obvious and natural. The beginner can make fair progress with noth- ing more than an instinctive knowledge of them. Any day in the year, in any wood or meadow, on the banks of any stream, even by the coun-
THE YARD
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try roadside, any place where natural cond1- tions remain in some measure undisturbed, every principle necessary for the most elab- orate gardening processes is disclosed by na- ture itself.
If the beginner will bear this in mind and at the same time remember that there is no space too confined for the application of nature’s prin- ciples, he will have mastered all the fundamen- tal law that it is necessary for him to master. With this as a basis, he will quickly observe that ornamental gardening, whethen it be by the formal method, the natural method or a combination of the two, is only a simple appli- eation of this common law. He may himself choose to copy the Italian garden, devise some modification of the English wall garden, elab- orate the miniature gardens of Japan or con- tent himself with duplicating and exalting nature in natural gardening, but whichever course he elects to pursue he will find the prin- ciples the same.
GARDENING
The owner of a home, whether it be on exten- sive grounds or set on a narrow and shaliow city lot, need not hesitate, therefore, to begin
THE YARD i)
gardeninge—and by gardening is meant the lay- ing out and cultivation of gardens, whether they be large or small, a square yard or an acre, open or inclosed, a part of an estate or all of it. The first important consideration to him is the understanding of what can be done with his own home grounds. It is important to com- prehend the value of improving them, even where the area is so small as to seem to pre- elude all opportunity for such effort. Most of us realize what paint will do for an old house, but few of us realize what a well-kept lawn or well-planted yard will do. Yet there are a num- ber of examples.
There is, for instance, the case of the owner of a city home who was anxious to dispose of it. The house was old and not attractive | and interested inquirers were few. The owner painted the house but still no sale was effected. Next, upon the suggestion of a friend who knew the value of shrubs and vines and flow- ers, the.yard was planted at a cost con- siderably less than the painting had entailed; hedges were substituted for ugly division fences and a general transformation was effected in - less than a season’s time. The owner then found not only that there were a number of
6 YARD AND GARDEN
purchasers eager for the property but, more- over, that he no longer desired to sell.
This experience is not as exceptional as it might at first thought appear. As a matter of fact very few persons are found nowadays who deny that value, of the sort estimable in dollars and cents, as well as beauty, can be added to a home by the judicious planting of the yard. No matter how imposing a house may be or how perfect and harmonious the lines of its architecture, or how well its interior may be fin- ished and furnished, all suffer when the yard is neglected. On the other hand, though the house itself be old and weather-worn, it can be made to assume an attractive appearance if it be sur- rounded by trees, vines, shrubs and flowers, carefully selected, wisely situated, patiently cultivated.
These facts are no longer questioned, if, in- deed, doubt of a serious nature was ever op- posed to them. All of us have learned the value of a city beautiful, and most of us admit the value of a home beautiful. If we do not contribute to the one or disregard the other, it is not for lack of knowledge but rather be- cause of indifference. But even this indiffer- ence is gradually disappearing and to-day we
THE YARD if
have owners of houses, factories and other buildings of a semi-public character, beautify- ing their grounds by the liberal employment of nature’s materials.
VALUE OF EXAMPLE
Moreover, we have examples to encourage us; we have city parks and streets or avenues, city yards, suburban homes and country estates planted or landscaped. And these are not without valuable influence, for it seldom hap- pens that the residents of a neighborhood sur- rounding a place, large or small, that has been effectively planted, lag far behind the pioneer. Before his advent, or before his operations were begun, it might be that lawns were un- kempt and flowers were unknown, but it does not require more than a season or two for the one improvement to arouse others to action and for the movement thus started to gain in extent until it amply justifies all the faith placed in the power of example by such bodies as civic improvement societies.
Planting, from whatever cause it may spring, once begun is not quickly abandoned. Garden- ing begets gardening—the more one plants the more one desires to plant. But the fascination
8 YARD AND GARDEN
of the pursuit is not alone sufficient to account for this. In addition to exercising that uni- versally instinctive desire to raise things, to see them grow and thrive on the care and attention one bestows on them, no field of en- deavor, as has already been suggested, prom- ises a broader scope for the expression of an individual’s taste, temper and _ aspirations. We seek to have the houses we build express something of our own personality, but, were we only aware of it, the yard presents a far more favorable field for such effort. Who can not, for instance, judge of the intellectual and moral, as well as of the sanitary status of a community, of a neighborhood, or of the owner of a private dwelling by its external conditions? | Nothing can be more incongruous than the littered back-yard of an imposing city resi- dence. Within dwell persons who are fond of comfort, if not of luxury, intelligent and edu- eated, and it seems wholly impossible that they would not avail themselves of the opportunity to add so much enjoyment for themselves and for others by improving the ground at their disposal, instead of making it a place for the deposit of old barrels, boxes, tin cans, and other rubbish. The only possible argument against
THE YARD 9
rinning the Improvement of a City Back-Yard
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The Same Yard Three Months Later
10 YARD AND GARDEN
such improvement, and, indeed, the argument that is most frequently advanced, is the lack of space. But it is not space that is wanting, but —taste, temper and aspiration. Even in a space that is not more than twenty feet square, there is sufficient ground for an attractive gar- den. |
How much more opportunity is there then for that owner of a city lot of the usual size upon which he has erected a house of the usual dimensions? Instead of confining his efforts to the making of a small garden he has, com- paratively speaking, a vast domain at his dis- posal. His lot, perhaps, is forty feet wide and one hundred feet deep. His house at most oc- eupies half of this; occasionally some other building—a stable, a garage—may occupy a few feet more, but, withal, he has remaining six hundred, eight hundred or a_ thousand square feet upon which to plant vines, and shrubs, and trees, and flowers. By employing to advantage this available space, he can con- tribute to his own pleasure, to the pleasure of his neighbors and of passers-by; he may set a good example and he may materially increase the value of his property. The latter is not a matter of theory but a matter of fact. Nor
THE YARD bk
is the increase to property value confined to the property improved; on the contrary all sur- rounding .property is in a measure affected. Unfortunately, however, we learn this too often only through the demonstration of the negative of it. It is quickly enough realized when some neighborhood suffers a direct de- preciation in property values through the care- lessness, selfishness, ignorance or downright stubbornness of a single property owner who persists in maintaining an ugly, unsightly yard which is little less than a legal nuisance and most certainly a positive eyesore.
If all these facts were more: extensively understood and their true worth and full sig- nificance were better known by individuals and communities, public health would be better con- served, cleanliness would be insured, fewer sanitary inspectors would be necessary and the beauty of town or city would be materially enhanced. The individual himself would no longer be the possessor of a house and lot, but he would become the owner of a home, with a yard harmonizing with the house and affording, in summer at least, an additional pleasant, healthful and attractive lving-room.
CHAPTER if
PLANNING THE GARDEN
Before there were gardeners there were gar- dens. The first gardener, no doubt, was a fence-builder; he appropriated whatever he found growing, that was of use or benefit, in- closed it to exclude marauders and to protect and safeguard it the better. Consequently in the beginning a garden was an inclosed space. It is easily conceivable that in this inclosed space not all the native plants which might prove of value to this primitive gardener were to be found. He inclosed, doubtless, what he could, but some were too remotely situated to be included. It became his problem, therefore, to introduce such of these as he desired into his protected area and, in the subsequent op- erations, we have the first garden planning and the first actual gardening.
This primitive ancestor was not without definite plan when he went beyond his crude pale and brought into his inclosure some plant
12
PLANNING THE GARDEN 13
which he had failed to include when he laid his barricade. And no more are we without plan when we transplant a tree, sow seeds or set out shrubs, vines or flowers. We put them where we believe they will prove most effective in attaining the end desired.
This is the beginning of planning, and, even when it is elaborated, it is neither difficult nor complex, though it has, unfortunately, been made by professional gardeners to seem both. Nor is it uninteresting. On the contrary, it is simple and fascinating and no small part of the delight and interest in gardening, espe-. cially in planting to ornament a small place, owes its origin to the operation. Moreover, the picture thus produced is our own, not an- other’s; it is of our conception and our mak- ing, expressing our own ideas and our own feel- ings as well as our individual natures. And, being not only a simple but an absorbing pro- ~ eess, why, when so easily and cheaply engaged in, employ another to undertake the work for us?
PRINCIPLES INVOLVED
Let those who own ground start with the . premise that every place can be improved. No yard is too small and no estate too large
14 YARD AND GARDEN
to make impossible its improvement by the use of plants of some sort, and, large or small, the principles involved are invariably the same— it is only the scale upon which they are applied that differs. Often one may see plants in tubs standing in front of store or office building, or set about the entrances and corridors in the busiest section of down-town districts of large cities. Wherever these are in evidence the passer-by does not fail to take note of them or to observe gratefully the effect they produce. There are also other instances where garden- ing is practised in almost impossible places. In some sections of some cities private resi- dences are without front lawns of any descrip- tion, and apparently there is no opportunity for planting. Still these homes are not with- out their flowers, for window boxes have been fitted in place and in these vines and flowers thrive and bloom. Then again—it is always a hopeful sign—in the most densely populated districts of the slums of our larger cities, one may frequently observe a plant struggling for life in some dust-streaked window of a home where dire poverty, only too evident, would seem to prohibit even the most feeble exhibi- - tion of a love for something green and growing.
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One may turn also to the manufacturing centers and here he will find frequently that the prac- tical business sense of the owner has led him to employ vines, shrubs and flowers to make his work-shop a healthier and more enjoyable place for his employees.
If one will consider for a moment what the purpose of a yard is, perhaps a sense of logic will induce him to see clearly ‘why an effort should be made to get as much out of it as space and other conditions will allow. The yard surrounding a house, whether large or small, contributes directly and indirectly to the health and comfort of the occupants of the home; it insures light, air and sunshine; it af- fords for the most of us at least a glimpse of nature. If we should determine to embellish this area with plants we should lose none of the advantages it affords but, as a matter of fact, we should add considerably to them. Individu- ally, we should get more light and more air and more sunshine, for gardening means out- doors life for the man or woman who begins it and takes an interest in it. It means ten or fif- teen minutes a day, or more perhaps, beneath the sky, and ten or fifteen minutes less beneath the roof. It means healthful éxercise, a closer
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acquaintance with nature, a broader glimpse of nature’s methods, and a deeper appreciation of nature’s handiwork.
_It is worth while to have a yard but it is worth infinitely more to make use of it, and if one will tend it with interest and some regard for the fitness of things, surprising results can be accomplished. And when mention is made of the yard it must not be deduced that the spa- cious lawns and gardens of large city or subur- ban homes are in mind; on the contrary the reference is rather to the little strip of ground behind the house, and the smaller strip in front of it which answer for breathing spaces for most of us who dwell in cities and towns. The eity yard, of course, 1s deplorably small, and year by year, as population increases it seems to become smaller. It used to be that we con- sidered one house to a lot enough, but now the builder, anxious to make his property pay him goodly dividends, has developed the habit of doubling the building without increasing the size of the lots. It might be possible to show even to him that there are advantages often from an investment point of view in more ground and less building, but, while this is at best a difficult task—for it affects too intimately
PLANNING THE GARDEN 19
the immediate revenues—it should not be diffi- cult to prove that provision made for planting and the planting itself are both wise invest- ments that will not: fail to yield substantial div- idends.
EXAMPLES OF PLANTING
‘Let us take, as a basis to illustrate what can be done, the sort of lot one finds oftenest in the residence sections of cities. In one of the larger cities of the Middle West there is a small home on a lot forty feet wide and one hundred and fifty feet deep. To be exact, the house is situated twenty feet from the property line, four feet from the north line of the lot, ten feet from the south line and fifty feet from the west line. Around the porch, screening the foundations, are dwarf shrubs and ferns; along the south line of the house, in a border two feet wide between the walk and the house, there are lilies of various species growing among funkias or ‘‘plantain’’ liles—here again the brick foundations are entirely hidden from view. Boston ivy climbs up the pillars of the porch, and porch boxes are filled with flowering and foliage plants and vines. On the north side are more ferns and a few shrubs and these in their
20 YARD AND GARDEN
turn completely hide the foundation walls. We have, therefore, to begin with, a house that is not ‘‘bare-footed.’’ The front yard is a lawn with no flowers erowing upon it, but a hedge, kept trimmed to a height of three feet, incloses the premises. In the rear there is a central lawn fifteen feet square; around this are grouped
Example of Planting in Limited Space
beds and borders of perennials and_ shrubs. Amongst these, annuals are planted each sea- son to afford additional bloom and a surer suc- cession.
On this place, from the earliest days of spring until the first killing frost in the fall, there is never a time when an armful of flowers can
PLANNING THE GARDEN 21
not be gathered. The planter of this place be- gan his work when he was in wretched health, but through his gardening operations he recov- ered from his illness, gained strength and vigor, made his home more beautiful and, at the ex- pense of a few minutes each day, and a. few dollars, he increased the value of the property nearly twenty per cent.
If the owner of a city lot is not impressed by examples of this kind but still finds it diffi- cult to rid himself of the idea that the small space at his command means an end to all thought of ornamental planting, let him make a sketch of his yard on paper, drawn to seale, and with this before him undertake an explora- tron of the possibilities. It is not unlikely that this method of procedure will disclose oppor- tunities for gardening which, as a beginner, not yet either deeply interested or enthusiastic, he might otherwise overlook. Gradually, as these become apparent, the fact also will develop that it is not more impracticable to create a pleasing picture within an area of a few Square yards than in the space of a mansion garden. In- deed, it may prove that limitation of space will contribute to fine if not broad expression of the best gardening, for it is evident that it must
22 YARD AND GARDEN
test to greater degree one’s taste and skill; in the contracted area more selection and more re- jection, better judgment and more care in ar- rangement must be exercised, whereas, in a big place, trees, shrubs and broad expanse of lawn are frequently sufficient in themselves to create the picture.
ELEMENTARY PLANNING
The person who has grown flowers for a year or two is in little need of the suggestion that even a season’s garden should be planned. There is enough delight in the work—in the an- ticipation to which it gives rise—to make it reasonably certain that the garden will be planned in some fashion before the planting time is at hand. In fact, all of us, even the novice, do more or less planning before we plant. Frequently we do not recognize it and really persuade ourselves that we plant as the desire seizes us. But, when it is considered that beds must be dug in the spring, it must be apparent that, in determining where they are to be situated, we have, in an elementary manner at least, planned our garden.
It may seem absurd to speak of planning a single bed. One desires to plant so many
PLANNING THE GARDEN 23
nasturtiums or, as May days come with their assurance that frosts are over, one begins to think of setting out geraniums. Well and good; no plan on paper is needed. The planter has only to determine upon the location of the bed and the work is done. But, even in so sim- ple a process, one has to take into considera- tion the very same things that must be con- sidered in planning a large garden. One must give some attention to surrounding objects, to the proximity, for instance, of buildings, of trees or shrubs or fences. One must ponder whether this color or that will war with the color of the house, or whether tall-growing or dwarf flowers shall be planted, or whether foliage or blossom is the more desirable.
So, in a measure, in planning even this single small bed, consideration is had for conditions which must be taken into account when one is planning on a more extensive seale. But in the latter case, the planner has also to deal with other details. He must learn all there is to be learned of the situation and the conditions gov- erning it; he must take into consideration all surrounding objects—fences, houses, trees, shrubs or whatever there may be of a _ per- manent nature, for which provision must be
YARD AND GARDEN
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made. He must consider what plants will thrive best under the conditions into which he purposes:to bring them and he must consider what plants will harmonize in color and what will not. He must select and reject and con- tinue the process until he has not only a list of plants suitable to the site but one also which includes as many as possible of those he most desires. It is by such means that a plan be- comes an expression of the planter’s own indi- viduality and the garden which is planted in accordance with it reflects the character of its maker.
PLANNING BEFORE BUILDING
In many instances one of the first discoveries that will be made is that the ornamentation of the home grounds could have been accom- plished far more speedily, effectively and eco- nomically if, before building, some thought had been given to the matter and some comprehen- sion of the real value of a yard had been gained. In America, too often the blunder is made of building a house on a site which pre- sents numerous difficulties in the way of adorn- ment when other sites more favorable might be obtained, at no greater expense than a little
26 YARD AND GARDEN
more forethought and search. This is fre- quently followed by another blunder which re- sults in the location of the house on the site in such manner that even the few possibilities for ornamentation which might have existed at first, are almost entirely eliminated. It is not
uncommon to observe, as an illustration, the destruction of some splendid tree, cut down without thought of its value, when by setting the house a few feet 1n one direction or another, the sacrifice could have been easily avoided and a natural ornament requiring perhaps a half century for its growth and development pre- served.
In this connection it may be well to observe that it is not always either advisable or desir- able to set the house on a line with adjoining structures, and certainly it is not necessary. A neighbor may protest if you suggest pro- jecting your house beyond his, but surely he will offer no objection to your setting it farther back if you wish, and often you will be the gainer if you adopt this course. It is difficult to account for the idea, which seems firmly fixed in some cities and towns, calling for the usual military-like alignment of houses. It means frequently a waste of yard possibilities—a neg-
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28 YARD AND GARDEN
lect of genuine natural resources—with no ap- parent gain to overcome the loss. .
The preservation of continuity of the prop- erty line is sometimes, of course, a necessity in large cities, especially where land is expensive and where every foot must be covered by build- ing, but where lots are large, comparatively speaking, make sure that to establish the house on the line will contribute to the general ap- pearance of the place as a home before the step is taken. If it may seem that more is to be gained. by setting it farther back from the street than neighboring houses, do not sacrifice your originality as an offering to conventionality, but build your foundations accordingly, use the rear yard as a service yard only and make the most of the front area that as a result will be at your disposal. Bear in mind that the house itself will show to better advantage when it is set, as it eventually should be, in a frame of blooming plants, green shrubs and climbing vines.
PROVIDING FOR WALKS
Especially give attention to the location of walks. First consider where the street en- trance or entrances are to be, deciding this on
PLANNING THE GARDEN 29
the basis of practical usage and convenience. Then direct the walks by the shortest route to their objective point. Avoid senseless curves, especially in a small yard, and have no more walks than are absolutely necessary, nor walks _ that are wider than necessary. If the grounds are large—half an acre or more in extent—then walks serving no practical ends may be intro- duced if desired. These may lead by devious course to retired seats or summer-houses or may conduct to shrubberies or to artificial gar- den ornaments, as, for example, a sun-dial. But if such walks are wanted, let the planter go forth to some remote wood or old meadow and, finding a path worn by the foot of man or beast, study its outlines and curves. He will not be long in observing that its irregularities -are not without purpose—it avoids obstacles, a tree, a shrub, a stump, a stone, a bog; it cir- cles knolls or follows the meanderings of a stream. But always it changes its course for reasons that are obvious. And for such reasons and these alone should the direction of walks laid on residence grounds be changed. The obstacles, of course, may be provided, but in any event they should be present and visible. A grouping of shrubbery, a large boulder, a
30 YARD AND GARDEN
tree or similar object, artificial as well as nat- ural, may be employed to gain the end desired and will not fail to prove effective as well as logical,
Each year finds Americans giving more and more attention to all such details. The house no longer receives attention to the entire exclu- sion of its surroundings; it has come to be con- sidered a part of the home, not all of it. And this is equally true when the house is already erected, as it is in a majority of instances, and we must make the most of conditions as we find them. This, of course, is more difficult, but it is never impossible. It means only that all the more planning is necessary and it presents no cause for discouragement, but, on the contrary, an incentive to greater effort.
CELAP THR. 10
HOW TO PLAN
Though where art is concerned, rules are fre- quently ‘‘more. honored in the breach than in the observance,’’ still there are certain princi- ples, all general in character, which, if followed, will lead the beginner safely past the commoner faults observed in yard ornamentation. These principles are as simple and obvious in point of reason as they are few in number and all of them are so fundamental that no grounds, of whatever size, can be tastefully embellished without observing them. They might be called, as they are here set forth, the ‘‘ten command- ments of ornamental gardening.’’
PRINCIPLES OF ARRANGEMENT
I. Preserve unbroken stretches of lawn of as great length as possible in one or more places, according to the size of the lot.
II. Set the tallest-growing plants nearest the boundaries of the yard and those of shorter
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a2 YARD AND GARDEN
erowth so that the range of height will be upward and outward from the center of the lawn.
III. Avoid planting next the street or avenue sidewalks unless seclusion is the object. Tall- growing trees, that head high, may be excepted, for these, when they have attained fair height, do not obstruct the view.
IV. Plant no tall-growing trees or shrubs so close to the dwelling that light and air will be excluded and avoid their use in small lots where good lawns and flowers are desired. But if sturdy, healthy trees are already established on a lot upon which no building has been erected, make every effort to save them and arrange other plans, both of building and planting, ac- cordingly. -
V. Avoid the formation of numerous sepa- rate flower-beds. Avoid beds of geometric de- signs on the lawn. Avoid seattered and gaudy - effects and ‘‘specimen”’ planting.
VI. Plant in a manner that will insure pleas- ing vistas from the principal windows, the en- trances or porches of the dwelling.
VII. Keep in mind the season of bloom of different plants desired as well as their height at maturity and aim for a succession of flowers.
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Keep the color of bloom also in mind to avoid color discords.
VIII. Avoid overplanting as well as under- planting. Simplicity rather than ornateness should be the aim. The smaller the area to be planted, the smaller should be the materials employed. Do not attempt too much; consider the space available and do not overload it, reckon the time that can be devoted to garden- ing and do not overtax it.
IX. Do not establish purposeless walks on small grounds. Curve or bend no walk without some apparent reason, as, for instance, to avoid an obstacle. Do not make purposeless use of garden ornaments or structures—pergolas, ar- bors, summer-houses, sun-dials, ete.
X. Plan before you plant, for planting with- out a plan is as certain to beget error as build- ing a house without the architect’s blue-print; and plan to make a picture.
The novice may feel that, if it 1s necessary to keep these rules in mind, planning is not the simple matter it has been represented to be. Still, onee he begins, he will find that it is prosaic common sense which dictates these principles and that, in no small measure, prac- tical and economical considerations enter into
HOW TO PLAN 30
their conception. He will find also that he is bound to observe most of them, consciously or unconsciously, in planning even the smallest yard or garden. For instance, it is hardly necessary to caution him against setting dwarf plants behind those of taller growth, and it Should be similarly superfluous to advise him to consider color, character and season of bloom. He could not progress far with his planning be- fore questions would arise involving all these points and, at the same time, a majority of the other rules of the ten recited.
PLAN ON PAPER
So far as the actual work of planning is con- cerned, it is best begun by obtaining paper ruled to seale or else by ruling paper to use as a substitute. A convenient scale'is one where the lines are’ one-eighth of an inch apart and so ruled horizontally and vertically that one- eighth inch squares are formed. Let each di- vision thus obtained répresent a square foot of the yard. If the lot is fifty feet wide, there should be, of course, fifty lines as long in eighths as the lot is long in feet. If, however, the lot is small, larger divisions with the lines farther apart may be employed, or if the grounds are
36 YARD AND GARDEN
too large to make the eighth-inch seale practical, two or three feet instead of one may be allowed to each division. |
Carefully indicate on the plan the location of all objects which are to remain permanently, allowing to each the exact amount of space it oc- eupies. If a house is standing on the lot, or a stable, shed or other building, show on the plan the shape and size of each. If a tree is among these permanent objects, indicate not only its location, but also the area of ground sheltered by its spread of branches. Irregu- larities in the surface of the ground, if they are to remain, should also be clearly outlined.
Make sure that everything designated to re- main is necessarily permanent, and, in. this con- nection, once more let the fact be emphasized that in small city yards trees are not always of first importance. It is better in many instances to rid the ground entirely of a half-lifeless, shapeless specimen than to arrange everything else to fit its requirements.
When all objects and surface irregularities of a permanent nature have been finally indi- eated upon the diagram, the planner can turn his attention to the making of his picture. And let him bear in mind that it is a picture he
HOW TO PLAN ov
is making. It is to be an individual whole, an area separate from other areas, possessing its own character, with every part and feature con- tributing its value to the homogeneous effect. House and yard are to become a united whole; ornamentation is to harmonize with architec- ture; there is not to be a house and lot, but a home. HARMONY OF EFFECT
Planning with this end in view at once recalls what has already been said of purposeless planting. Do not imagine that it is enough to scatter trees, shrubs and flowers promiscuously over the place, for a yard planted in such a fashion is without central idea and betrays a lack of judgment, care or creative ability on the part of the planter. Mere planting without purpose is almost invariably without value as ornament.
Naturally, on small lots, the residence will be the central figure. Plan, then, to keep it so. Make it unlikely that any one will remark any individual feature surrounding it or even the house itself—it is the home that is to be re- marked. Strive to do for this house what a camera lens does frequently for a landscape. It reduces the importance of prominent or indi-
38 YARD AND GARDEN
vidual objects,-it will be remembered, and brings into immediate view in the resultant pic- ture all the details as a whole and, more than this, shuts off extraneous and irrelevant sur- roundings, which might serve to distract atten- tion. One sees first on the photograph the whole of the picture and later he sees the de- tails.
Plan, therefore, for the whole. This nat- urally means planning for harmonious effect which, in time, suggests careful consideration of the value of each plant selected in its rela- tion to the whoije and not in the light of its own individual value. This is the difficult point for the beginner to master. He reads alluring de- scriptions of various plants and, forgetting his picture, remembers only these details; he mag- nifies the part and detracts from the composite. As a result we have not only the scattered planting so often seen but that other barrier to effective ornamentation of the home grounds, senseless specimen-planting.
Opposed to such methods is the mass plant- ing which alone will add character and strength and a sense of unity to the place. Once the value of this is grasped the beginner is not likely to go far astray in his planning. He
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would, for instance, no more think of cutting a geometric flower-bed figure in the center of his lawn than he would think of planting a secret- order emblem of scarlet geraniums and coleus in the heart of a forest landscape. On the con- trary the greensward would appeal to him as his canvas upon which, painter-like, he is to produce his picture. He would demand, not isolation for his flowers, but a neighborly back- ground, and an informal border rather than a formal bed in which to grow them.
HEIGHT AND COLOR
Begin the plan, then, with the yard bounda- ries. Establish here the backgrounds, and plant from them toward the center. Should a board fence serve as one boundary, vines may be trained over it, converting it into as effective a background as one. could desire. A line of shrubs or of tall-growing perennials could serve as another, a hedge of roses or privet as still another, or indeed, anything of the sort that the planner may desire.
Carefully indicate on the diagram where each is to be planted and the space it-1s to oceupy. Designate each mark set down by a number or letter and, at the bottom of the plan, or on sep-
HOW TO PLAN 4]
arate paper, set down the number or letter and after it the name of the plant it indicates. The number required of each can be readily ascer- tained. by allowing for necessary distance be- tween plants on the plan itself.
The planner will not proceed far with this process before he will find it necessary, for the sake of harmony in height and color, to con- sider both qualities when he selects the various plants he may desire. He will also be obliged to consider soil and light conditions. He might find, for instance, that what he desires is a hardy perennial attaining a height of twenty- four or thirty inches, whose flower is white, and which will thrive in a heavy soil in a situation exposed to the full rays of the sun. If such be his requirement, based upon the idea of the ef- fect as a whole, would it not be manifestly absurd for him to select a plant attaining a height of six inches or six feet, demanding half shade for its welfare and producing a red flower? Yet, absurd as the idea is, this is fre- quently done and the planter, moreover, won- ders why he is not satisfied with the result produced.
So the planner, in selecting his plants, must keep in mind not only the requirements of his
42 YARD AND GARDEN
picture but he must have consideration, too, for the requirements of the materials with which he works. He should remember also that there are five or six months in the year when his yard should be like another room to his residence, and he should strive to provide a succession of bloom. It is inadvisable, however, to sacrifice unity to gain this end. In other words, a suc- cession of bloom is not as important as is the exclusion from the plan of too many varieties of plants.
SLOW PLANNING AND PLANTING
It is best to proceed slowly with planning and still more slowly with planting. A yard can not be effectively embellished in a season—the picture can not be painted in a summer. It is advisable to plant the boundaries first, setting out the heavier stock, carefully cultivating it until it is well established and comes in turn to suggest to the gardener many opportunities for effective planting against the background it affords. Too often the error is made of planting all at once only to gain as a result an unsatisfactory effect. Rather than encounter the discouragement that such an unfortunate outcome may cause, and to avoid, also, useless
HOW TO PLAN 45
loss of time, money and labor, it would be far better to postpone some of the planting until the following season. By then a better esti- mate will be had of the effectiveness of the work already done and a more complete idea may be formed of the planting still to be done.
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Wall-planting — Result of Careful Planning
This suggests the advantage of the plan that is carefully drawn and executed. It can be added to from time to time, from season to season, as the picture develops in the planner’s mind, and always it will serve as a valuable and almost indispensable key to the names of the various plants employed.
CHAP Tin ty
LAWNS
Nothing adds more to a city home than a fresh and velvety lawn. Nothing, however, is more seldom seen. Still, if properly planted and tended, good lawns are not difficult to achieve. The chief cause of failure is in per- mitting hasty turfing immediately upon the completion of building operations.
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL
No proper consideration is had for soil con- ditions. It may be that in excavating for the cellar, sand or clay has been thrown upon the old surface soil to a depth of a foot or more. Mixed with this are pieces of board and brick, chips of stone, and not infrequently concrete. It should be apparent to any one that turf laid on such soil as this can not succeed, yet in al- most three-fourths of the instances where grass ‘‘refuses to grow’’ this is the immediate cause of the trouble.
44
LAWNS pum.
To make a good lawn from turf or from seed, the first essential is to give it a foundation of good soil worked to a considerable depth. It is really impossible to get soil too good for a good lawn, and while the cultivation of this soil to a depth of one foot is absolutely necessary, it is far better to work it thoroughly to a depth of two feet. If the ground about the home is good and this good soil runs to a depth of a foot, the first thing to do is to plow or spade it thoroughly. But if the ground be poor the preliminary step must be its improvement.
When it is considered that the grass of the lawn is a permanent crop, the necessity for thorough cultivation at the start is apparent. Go about this by removing, as far as possible, such soil as offers no encouragement to culti- vation and substituting for it soil that is rich and fertile enough to insure a thick heavy crop of grass. The thorough working of all soil which is to be the foundation of the lawn, means first to rid it of foreign substances which are detrimental to plant growth of any sort—split and torn roots, stones, bricks and such rubbish. Then plow or spade, going to a depth of at least one foot, and pulverize the soil by using a spade, hoe or harrow, adding while this last
16 YARD AND GARDEN
process is carried forward, fertilizer in the form of manure.
FERTILIZING AND PLOWING
Well-rotted cow manure is the best fertilizer to apply; it imparts humus as well as plant food, and adds something to the ground upon which the plants may feed season after season. It is often advisable to apply also a thin dress- ing of air-slacked lime, plowing this in or spad- ing it in at the time the ground is first broken, or adding it later after the fertilizer has been thoroughly incorporated with the soil. In getting the soil in condition for turfing or the sowing of seeds, bear in mind always that the lawn, if it is to be successful, must be properly started. Flowers can be planted each season, lifted and transplanted, shrubs can be reset and all with comparatively little bother and little work. But not so with the lawn. If it has to be remade the operation means not only much trouble and much labor but, for a considerable period, an unsightly yard.
If the place to be planted in grass is small, the cultivation, of course, can be more thor- ough—it can not be too thorough in any event. On larger areas, though, nothing suggested
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48 YARD AND GARDEN
should be overlooked. Plow deeply and harrow
thoroughly. If, to begin with, the land appears to be impossible, make every effort to render it as fit as can be while the plowing and harrow- ing are in progress. If the soil is deficient in humus begin the foundation of the lawn fully a year before it is desired to seed it. Plant a erop of cow peas and in the fall plow it under, adding immediately a dressing of lime. In the early spring following, apply a dressing of well- rotted manure, and plow and harrow again. Make the surface soil fine and level. It is al- ways best to let the ground stand for three or four weeks untouched, so that any weeds may germinate and show themselves and be eradi- eated by another harrowing.
When the area to be put to lawn is limited, as it is in the case of small city residences, it is necessary, first of all, to determine whether the soil, as it lies, is suitable for a good lawn. If it is not, waste no time with it but have it carted away and good loam substituted. Work this thoroughly and if it is in the fall—the best time to begin lawn-making—top-dress it with manure and let it remain -somewhat roughly heaped, that is, without pulverizing or smoothing. The winter’s frost and the alternate
LAWNS 49
freezing and thawing will do more to put the soil in excellent condition than a month’s spad- ing, hoeing and raking.
TURF
Once the ground is got into shape, the planter may proceed to establish his lawn by one of two methods; he may use turf or seed. The former is probably most frequently employed in cities because it gives immediate results. It is quickly laid and quickly establishes itself, and if properly laid, is usually satisfactory, provided, of course, it 1s well-selected turf, free from weeds or rank grasses that are unsightly and difficult to manage. In laying sod be sure that the edges of the turf are brought closely together and later fill in the spaces that may re- main with loose soil. The chief advantage of turf is the fact that it can be laid at any time when the ground ean be worked, and if estab- lished on such a foundation of cultivated soil as has been described as necessary for either turf or seed, it will grow. But it must be wa- tered persistently and thoroughly and it de- mands, moreover, much attention during the first year while it is establishing itself.
It is important in making the lawn from turf
50 YARD AND GARDEN
J
to select the turf carefully. T'’oo often this is intrusted to ignorant laborers who use no judgment but take whatever is closest at hand and easiest to obtain, regardless of whether it is overgrown with weeds or spotted with un- desirable grasses. Once satisfactory turf 1s obtained, laid evenly and closely and the unions
Sun-dial in Corner of City Lawn
are filled with loose earth, it is necessary to beat it. This is essential in order to insure intimate contact with the underlying soil, and if this is not secured the planter of the turf will have gained nothing. The roots will refuse to take hold of the under-soil, and the grass after a few days will die. Watering, of course, will tend
LAWNS ‘Ol
to prevent any such disaster and may be the means of nursing the turfs to healthful and vig- orous growth, but more frequently, if the grasses do not die, they will struggle slowly before they finally show signs of health and vigor.
As a matter of fact, it is almost impossible to obtain really good sod in any quantity. Usually the turfs that are laid are filled with weeds and once the sod is down and established, it is almost impossible to exterminate them. Then it is extremely difficult to prevent patches from failing utterly and leaving bare spots, where new grass is established only with the most painstaking care and persistence. As a general thing a turf lawn ean not be established for two or three years and during that time it will almost invariably appear uneven and patchy, lacking uniformity of color and wanting in that freshness and texture which comes from proper seeding alone.
THE SEEDED LAWN
The seeded lawn established on a foundation. of soil properly prepared is usually the most satisfactory lawn in the long run. Prepare the seed bed—after working the soil as already out-
o2 YARD AND GARDEN
lined—by finely pulverizing the surface and making the top soil perfectly smooth. It should, of course, be freed from all rubbish, such as roots, stones and the like. Sow the seed in April or May or in September. In the South, however, seeding can be done in Febru- ary and November. If the spring is selected sow the seed as soon as the ground can be got into fit condition. Broadcast the seed. Dis- tribute it evenly over the entire surface of the ground and at the rate of not less than four bushels to the aere—five would be better. For smaller areas use at least one quart of seed to every 300 square feet. In England, noted for its fine velvety lawns, 114 ewt. is used per acre and one pound per square rod.
It is hardly necessary to suggest that a day should be selected for the sowing that is quiet, for wind will bear the fine seed away and half of it will be wasted, while an even distribution will be practically impossible. When sowing keep the hand close to the ground and swing the arm freely, taking care to scatter the seed thor- oughly, not allowing it to bunch. Do not hesi- tate to sow thickly. Thick sowing is an advan- tage in more ways than one. In the first place it prevents weeds from getting a firm foothold.
LAWNS Do
for they are crowded out by the grass seedlings, and in the second place it insures a finer grass leaf which in turn means a ‘‘velvety’’ lawn. Usually it is advisable to go over the ground twice. The first time sow from east to west and the second time from north to south. After the seed has been broadcasted, rake or harrow lightly the entire area so that the seeds are cov- ered very thinly. Follow this by rolling and if you desire the best results never omit this finishing process; it firms the ground and in- sures germination of the seed, while it gives the seedlings a firm foot-hold when they send their roots forth in quest of food.
SEED FORMULA
Buy good seed. This is an economy and an essential for good lawns. The well-known Kentucky blue-grass is the best of all for the lawn. It is not difficult to grow; indeed, where it refuses to grow, soil conditions are such that no permanent grass will thrive. Kentucky blue combines more desirable qualities, prob- ably, than any other grass, and on this account it should be made the foundation and principal ingredient of any mixture that is applied. The other ingredients of the mixture are important
o4 YARD AND GARDEN
for various reasons. Chief among these is the fact that IKentucky blue-grass does not ger- minate quickly; if it is planted in the fall, for instance, there will be no results until the next spring, and if sown in the spring it will be some time before it makes even a light covering for the soil.
Various formule are offered by dealers in seeds, and where the dealer is known to be re- liable and is willing to furnish the purchaser with an analysis of his mixture, it is safe to pur- chase it and probably the best thing, all cireum- stances considered, to do. But be sure in any event that the Kentucky blue-grass which should form the bulk of the mixture is ‘‘re- cleaned fancy,’’ and do not accept any seed that weighs less than twenty pounds to the bushel. The object of the mixture is to insure im- mediate results from the sowing while the blue- grass is germinating, but incidentally the extra grasses mixed with the blue-grass serve addi- tional purposes. In the first place mixtures result in a denser turf because grasses thrive better when grown in variety. Then, too, the Kentucky blue-grass has some undesirable fea- tures and it is these that the other seeds in the mixture will correct. The Kentucky blue, for
LAWNS 55
instance, does not carpet the ground as closely as other varieties and when mowed shows patches of soil and brown.
The best formula for general purposes is as follows:.
Pg BLDC oo a a ee eo eae 10 Ibs. OE US ELT ST RS AD plea oe Te 3 lbs. MEARE VS eC Sg ses breed Sere Sah acne a eae re ee ce Sie 3 lbs. wo TREC SOT a Alt Serge ere 4 lbs.
In any event this can be used as a basic mix- ture and by substituting various grasses suited _to various situations for a portion of the Ken- tucky blue-grass, the mixture will be found gen- erally effective.
Other mixtures are as follows:
FOR SHADED SPOTS
Poe pratensis: (Kentucky blue): ....... 2.6 2 oie. ca eee 40% Poa nemoralis (wood-meadow grass)..... - ee ie ee eer 40% Gynosurus ecristatus (crested dog’s-tail).............. 15% Festuca heterophylla (various-leaved fescue)........... 5% FOR SANDY SOILS Perupratensis., (Kentucky blue)... .....-. 22.26. c ee cee oe 20% Agrostis canina (Rhode Island bent).......... ft aats aioe Agrostis alba, var. stolonifera (creeping bent) ......... 35% eiica. ovina (Sheep's fesctle) ..% . 60. Fe ee ee den 10% FOR. CLAY SOILS Pea mraceusis, (Kentucky -bhie):... 5.02.20 2 6s cee we ss 45% marostis alba, var. vulgaris (Redtop)................. 39% Lolium perenne, var. tenue (fine-leaved English rye).... 20% FOR SLOPES AND TERRACES Poepratensis (Kentucky blue)... . 2.2.02. 62.225 dne 15% Agrostis alba, var. stolonifera (creeping bent)......... 35% Cynosurus cristatus (crested dog’s-tail)............... 30%
Reevecompressa (Canada blue)... .. 6.006.012 5 oc s es were 20%
D6 YARD AND GARDEN
FEEDING THE GRASS
When a lawn is properly treated in the pre- liminary stages and manure is incorporated with the soil as it is spaded or plowed and raked or harrowed, little need be done in the way of feeding the grass for six or seven years, but where the soil is thin or the lawn has been es- tablished for some time fertilizer of some sort is necessary. It should be remembered that the grass is feeding continuously and exhausting the plant food of the soil. What it is taking from the soil is not given back in any degree, because the grass is mowed and the mowings earted away. Then, too, it should be remem- bered that grass is a permanent crop and it is impossible, once it is established, to assist 1t by the cultivation which it is possible to give to other crops, whether they be flowers or vegeta- bles.
Fertility can be added by spreading over the surface a dressing of organic manure. Use cow manure if it is possible to obtain it and place it on the lawn after the ground is frozen —this prevents the cutting of wheels of the cart or wheelbarrow into the sod. Be sure that the manure used is well rotted, that it is old.
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Fresh manure is not only damaging to the grass but is almost certain to be filled with minute seeds of various weeds. Let the manure re- main until early spring and a double benefit will be derived from the dressing. It will not only impart plant food to the soil, but it will serve as an effective mulch which will to a great extent overcome the injury caused by the alter- nate thawing and freezing during the winter. When the grass shows a vigorous growth in the spring, rake the coarser material from the lawn and follow this by rolling.
In the spring it is best to top-dress the lawn with an application of finely ground bone meal mixed with hard-wood ashes. Combine the mix- ture by using equal parts of each by weight, and spread the fertilizer on the lawn until it takes upon itself a grayish appearance, or to be more exact at the rate of one ton to the acre. It is best to select a day for applying this top dressing that is still and promises a light rain. Another fertilizer that has a beneficial effect on lawns is nitrate of soda. Apply this at the rate of one ounce to the square yard, and make sure, if it is applied in dry form, that it is broad- casted immediately preceding a shower. It is perhaps best to apply this to the lawn by dis-
LAWNS 59 solving it in water, using one pint to forty gal- lons of water. The effect of nitrate of soda will be observed almost immediately; the grass will take on a fresher color, a deeper, richer green, and will make vigorous growth. Hard- wood ashes, however, are especially valuable as food for lawns of Kentucky blue-grass. Bone meal is one of the most permanent fertilizers, and is chiefly valuable, so far as grasses are concerned, for its phosphates. Lime used on the lawn should be air-slacked; it is best as a winter dressing, and should be applied at the rate of a pint cup full to the square yard.
ROLLING THE LAWN
The application of fertilizer is by no means the only thing necessary to maintain a lawn in good condition. The turf must be rolled and the grass mowed and watered. Some indica- tion of the value of rolling has already been given in this chapter. It is important and should never be neglected where the best re- sults are sought. The rolling is necessary in order to make the roots as firm as possible and should be applied frequently. The heavier the roller the better it is for the lawn. In the spring as soon as the ground becomes work-
60 YARD AND GARDEN
able and the grass starts into growing, the en- tire surface of the lawn should be rolled to overcome the effects of the alternate freezing and thawing during the winter months, which has a tendency to loosen the surface soil. It will be readily observed that the heavier the soil and the more moist it is the more necessity there is for rolling. In using the roller it is best to roll in two directions at least, as was suggested for broadcasting the seed—that 1s, from north to south and from east to west. In selecting the roller obtain one that will repre- sent a weight of a thousand pounds at least. Very frequently it will be found that old lawns which appear to be beyond the power of cul- tivation to bring back into condition, require nothing more than repeated applications of the roller, and in the case of new lawns very poor and disappointing results will follow the fail- ure of the planter to make use of this essential lawn device.
MOWING
No lawn can be kept in good condition un- less it is frequently mowed. The best method to follow in cutting the grass is to mow it once a week with the knives of the machine set high.
61
LAWNS
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62 YARD AND GARDEN
This is much better than mowing it at inter- vals of two weeks with the knives set low. Still it must not be considered that any regular in- terval can be designated for the mowing pro- cess; conditions must govern the cutting. If the growth is rapid, mowing may be necessary oftener than once a week, but where the lawn can be gone over with the machine at least once every six or seven days, the knives on the mower should not be set closer than two inches to the ground. In cases where the grass has been allowed to get unusually long, the knives should be set even higher for the first two or three mowings and then brought gradually lower until the proper distance from the — ground is obtained.
It is often a question whether the clippings resulting from the use of the mower should be left on the lawn or removed. If, however, the lawn is mowed frequently and the grass is kept at a uniform height of about two inches the clippings if left on the lawn will do no harm, but, on the contrary, very often will prove a benefit inasmuch as they will act, in some de- gree at least, as mulch and protect the roots, especially in the early spring, from the scorch- ing rays of the sun. But if the grass has been
LAWNS 63
allowed to gain a considerable growth, it will be positively detrimental to permit the clip- pings to remain. This is especially true where the soil is inclined to be heavy and the moisture it contains is not quickly given off. In such instances the cut grass hanging closely about the roots and there rotting will be the cause of not a little subsequent trouble. On lighter soils there is less danger from leaving the clip- pings on the lawn, and in some instances it is even better to do so.
Grass that is cut on dull cloudy days will be found to yield itself more readily to the knives of the mower, and in addition to this will show less disposition to resent even close mowing than when a bright hot day is selected - for the operation.
WATERING
It is a fallacy to proceed with the watering of a lawn on the basis that it is not good for the grass to wet it while the sun is shining. If watering is done as it should be it will make very little difference whether the day is bright - or cloudy. Mere sprinkling is detrimental in any event and is to be avoided, especially on bright days. This method of ‘‘watering’’ a
64 YARD AND GARDEN
lawn is undoubtedly the cause of much of the trouble experienced in obtaining the best re- sults where conditions would seem to indicate that they should be easily attained. Instead of playing a thin mist-like spray over the lawn, see to it that the ground is soaked; in other words, when you do water, water well. Apply enough so that the water will soak in the ground, saturating it for a depth of two or three inches at least. Remember that the roots of grasses as well as of other plants seek moisture where it is to be found. If you persist in hghtly sprinkling your lawn the roots, instead of pene- trating to the cooler depths, will persist in remaining on the surface, where they soon become dry and baked by the sun. If, on the other hand, the roots find what they require at - a depth of six or eight inches or a foot below the surface of the soil, they will make a growth in that direction to obtain it.
In most cities, unfortunately, there are reg- ulations maintained by companies supplying water making it practically impossible to water a lawn as it should be watered. These regula- tions prohibit the use of a hose without the nozzle, and this in itself 1s a positive handicap for the owner of city property who is anxious
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to obtain a soft and velvety lawn. Where, however, regulations do not interfere, it is best to water without a nozzle, letting the water emerge unchecked from the hose and with the : foree of the stream so regulated that it will not wear holes in the turf. Let the end of the hose rest on the grass and as the ground becomes saturated with the water move it about from place to place until the whole area is thoroughly wet. Watering in this manner can be carried on at any time of the day whether the sun is bright or clouded.
WEEDS
The weed problem is one not so easily dis- posed of. Frequently a _ splendid lawn is ruined in a comparatively short time by allow- ing the weeds to gain a foothold, and permit- ting them to spread. Guard against any such catastrophe by keeping ahead of the pests. Remember that where a lawn is well kept, planted on a foundation of suitable soil, weeds will have a difficult time to establish themselves. Be sure each time the lawn is mowed to look earefully for the weeds. It is best always to dig out the dandelions and plantains before the mower is run over them.
LAWNS 67
Occasionally an effort is made to save a lawn that is overrun by these weeds, and the per- plexed owner seeks for some solution which, when applied, will kill the objectionable intrud- ers and do no harm to the grass. Let him understand now, once for all, that the only sure and safe method of eradication is by removing the weeds, root and all, by digging them out with hand tools. No other method will relieve the. turf of dandelions, plantain or dock. Mowing does not kill them nor does cutting them off an inch or two below the surface of the soil. Both dandelions and plantains seed very rapidly and multiply at an enormous rate. They must not, therefore, be allowed to come to seed. Re- move them or such of them as can be reached by the use of some tool, and if all the root, by this process, 1s not obtained, drop a erystal of sulphate of iron in the hole made by the oper- ation and this, dissolving, will kill the root re- maining. <A drop or two of gasoline, if more convenient, can be used in place of the green vitriol. It is better, however, to get out the root in its entirety, than to rely on this or any other chemical of strong corrosive powers, which, in deadening the weed root, may also injure the grass. _ Have at hand a box of loose
68 YARD AND GARDEN
soil and, if necessary, when the root is re- moved, fill up the hole and firm the soil so that the damage done is immediately repaired.
WEED GRASSES
Crab-grass is probably the worst and most objectionable weed that attacks lawns. It holds itself so close to the surface of the soil that the | blades of the mower very seldom reach it, and, though it is an annual, it resows itself year after year and appears in early August to render almost unsightly any lawn where it has gained a foothold, no matter how persistently the lawn may be tended. It has broad, pale green leaves, and gives a patchy appearance to the general surface of the yard wherein it shows itself. When cold weather approaches, the crab-grass assumes a dead brownish-red color, and lends to the whole area a rusty appearance which very often leads the cultivator to believe that his grass is parched for lack of water. But no amount of watering will overcome the unsightly appearance occasioned by the pres- ence of crab-grass. Only one method of eradi- cating this pest is effective and this is one which is more troublesome than expensive. Ob- tain a steel rake with sharp pointed teeth, and
LAWNS 69
by means of this tear up the creeping stems of the weed, lifting them clear from the soil and with a lawn-mower—after setting the knives very low—run over the grass, cutting off the flowering heads of the intruder to prevent its seeding itself.
If this operation is performed persistently for one or two seasons it is possible that the erab-grass can be eliminated. It is, as already said, an annual and, of course, is killed by the first heavy frost. If by the process outlined it is prevented from seeding itself, it is likely that the lawn will subsequently be free of it, but it must be remembered that it is utterly futile to run the mower over the grass with- out first destroying the hold of the creeping stems on the surface soil and lifting them within the reach of the blades of the machine.
Other weed grasses which prove annoying are the well-known orchard grass and Ber- muda grass and occasionally timothy. The Bermuda grass is chiefly objectionable because it is discolored by the first touch of frost and leaves the lawn that it has invaded with brown patches on its surface which continue to be un- sightly until winter’s snow spreads a conceal- ing mantle over the surface. In the South,
YARD AND GARDEN
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LAWNS 7t
Bermuda grass is not objectionable, but, on the contrary, is really the main dependence of those desiring good lawns where the soil is light and sandy. But wherever orchard grass or timothy make their appearance they should be immedi- ately dug up, and if this process involves the rendering of the surface uneven, fill in with soil as already advised and scatter lawn grass seed on its surface.
INSECTS AND MOLES
Ants are the most serious of the minor in- sects that infest lawns, and though they do not directly attack the grasses themselves they do no end of injury by loosening the soil and tun- neling under the roots. Usually the pests are killed by the application of boiling water, but, as this means a subsequent resowing of seed, it is best to proceed against them by a method at once simple and effective. Use bi-sulphite of carbon; it is a heavy volatile liquid which sinks quickly into the opening in the ant-hill and immediately gives forth fumes which, be- ing heavier than the air, penetrate at once to the remotest sections of the runs in the home. Apply it by pouring into a hill of average size a tablespoonful of the liquid and laying over
(2 YARD AND GARDEN
the opening a damp cloth or some substitute that will serve to prevent the insects from es- eaping. In purchasing the bi-sulphite of car- bon remember, if your druggist does not warn you, that it is highly inflammable and easily exploded; keep it away from the neighborhood of an open fire. It can be used as effectively in fighting other burrowing and tunneling 1n- sects as in the eradication of ants.
The mole, while not often appearing in cit- ies, is frequently the cause of considerable trouble to the suburban and country resident. In the course of a night or two a very few of these animals, once they start their tunneling process on a lawn, can cause damage that is not likely to be repaired in the course of a month or so. They seldom appear, however, where the roller is properly used, for they pre- fer to follow the line of least resistance and will betake themselves to sections of the ground less forbidding if the roller has packed the soil as it should. Poisoned bait is sometimes used in ridding a lawn area of these animals, but as the mole is carnivorous, avoid applying the poison in the form of grain. Poison in any event is dangerous, for it may be eaten by household pets or poultry instead of by the
LAWNS 73
animals for which it is intended. Mole traps are the safest and surest devices for ridding the lawn of the intruders.
RENOVATING OLD LAWNS
Old lawns are quite as often problems as new lawns. Where one person is inquiring how he may establish a close soft turf for his yard, nine are asking what to do to renovate their old lawns. In many instances renovation is impossible and where such is the case the only sure method to pursue is to proceed as though no lawn had ever existed on the area under consideration. In short, renovate the old lawn by plowing it up and planting a new one. It is not meant, of course, to advise any one to pro- ceed on such a radical course without due thought, but to warn him against wasting time and energy in work that will poorly reward him in the end. When a lawn is overrun by weeds ° —dandelions, plantains, docks or weed grasses —and it appears that the eradication of these will practically destroy the lawn surface, it is best to begin by using at once the spade or the plow.
But if the grass is not attacked by these weeds and the soil appears to be in a good state
74 YARD AND GARDEN
of cultivation and of a proper depth, it 1s prob- able that the problem can be solved by loosen- ing the surface soil with a steel rake and sow- ing seed. Seed-sowing, however, will avail nothing if the lawn owes its deterioration to an exhaustion of the plant food in the soil. Nor will the application of fertilizer help; mere dressings of bone meal or barnyard manure, no matter how abundant, will not serve the purpose. It is cheaper and quicker to put the soil in ‘‘good heart’’ by submitting it to such treatment as would be meted out to virgin oround.
CHAPTER V
VINES
No plants lend themselves more gracefully to the improvement of the small city yard than vines. With these, most remarkable and sur- prising effects can be attained with little ex- pense and little care. Wherever they are grown they add beauty to the scene, acting as harmonizing agents, relieving the general ef- fect of any appearance of stiffness or formal- ity. Beautiful and graceful in themselves, they conceal all the unsightly places and ob- jects and obliterate all the harsh outlines or the straight lines which are nature’s abhor- rence. They convert into a thing of beauty a dilapidated fence, turn a stone into a verita- ble mound of foliage, twist and twine them- selves about a dead tree and make of it a pillar of leaf and flower, or, hanging in festoons from porch or window boxes, they produce a picture
79
16 YARD AND GARDEN
that varies in its form and charm with every vagrant breeze of a summer’s day. ‘T'rained over arches, gates, or pergolas, they shed a grateful shade and afford some shelter from sudden showers.
EFFECTIVENESS OF VINES
Much of the picturesqueness of the old ruins of Kuropean castles owes its existence to the kindly offices of the vines grown to their walls. They mellow the defects and impart an at- mosphere of age and permanency, and always the dense green of their foliage is a relief to the eyes in summer and soothing to tired and discordant nerves. They will grow very fre- quently where other plants will not thrive and, onee gaining a foothold, they may thrust their stems even to the highest point of a brick wall of some city office building. Here, clinging to the masonry, they weather every storm, resist the burning rays of the sun and transform the building as neither carpenter nor painter can do. Whether they are grown on the walls and terraces of the mansion or on the limited grounds of the cottage they never fail to pro- duce an effective picture. Moreover, with their dense green fohage as a background, the artis-
VINES 77
tic planter can work wonders with flowers and shrubs which otherwise might prove too bizarre for use in small yards.
Indeed, the owner of a city lot who is intent upon its ornamentation can do no better than to start upon his work with the planting of vines. Before he finally determines to remove some object which he considers an eyesore, let him first consider whether a vine would not only conceal the object but convert it into some- thing to be desired as an acquisition in his general plan of operations.
Vines are cheap and easily obtained. They are to be had wherever a wood is to be found, or, lacking such natural nursery, they quickly respond to the treatment which even an inex- perienced amateur can afford them, as they root readily from cuttings, or ‘‘slips.’’? They can also be grown from seed, all the annuals being obtained by this method almost exclusively and many of the perennials doing almost equally as well when similarly treated.
CLASSIFICATION OF VINES
Vines may be roughly divided into twiners, leaf-twisters, tendril-bearers, those with aérial roots and those which gain support by means
18 2 YARD AND GARDEN
of prickles or hooks and which usually require tying to a trellis or support of some sort. The morning-glories are familiar examples of the first, the clematis of the second, the grape of the third, the ivy of the fourth and the climb- ing, or to be more exact, the scrambling rose of the fifth. :
The larger number of the climbing plants that are cultivated, are those which make their ascent by twining about their supports or em- ploying special organs in the form of roots or tendrils with which to effect their rise. It is interesting to note that each species of twining plant winds in its own direction about its sup- port, following this course under all normal or ordinary conditions. The morning-glories, for instance, twine in a direction which is opposed to the movement of the sun, while the hops pre- fer a course which is in the direction of the sun’s movement.
With this rough classification as a basis a long list of climbing plants suitable for culti- vation on the home grounds might be given. All are well equipped in foliage, flower or berry, suitable for use in the city yard. And of these there are varieties for almost every situation and every purpose. There are annu-
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80 YARD AND GARDEN
als and perennials—those which spring from seed and make their full growth and flower in a season’s time, then perish with the first touch of frost, and those which persist year after year, either coming up from the root each spring or putting forth their leaves and flowers from the old stems.
In most instances where permanent effects are desired the hardy perennial vines should be selected. Many of these are known as shrubs by those who insist on an exact ter- minology, the body of the plant bemg woody and enduring year after year. Others are herbs dying to the ground each fall, the root alone subsisting from season to season. The chief value of these is their foliage, for of this the amateur can always feel assured, though there are, of course, many vines which bear flowers, but which, owing to the conditions un- der which they are raised, frequently fail to produce blossoms.
The annuals are valuable as a rule for both their foliage and flowers. The morning-glory, which has already been used as an illustration, is an. example. The annual vines are best adapted for quick concealment of unsightly ob- jects and the most of them make rapid growth
VINES 81
which soon covers arch, trellis, or support of whatever nature it may be.
SOIL FOR VINES
While it has been suggested that the common perennial and annual vines are not exacting as to the conditions demanded for their health, still it is a fact that their requirements and culture are too often given but small consider- ation by the planter. They are frequently set out when preparation has been meager, estab- lished in poor soil sometimes made up largely of rubbish or of earth from which all the food has been extracted by other plants. Still, even under such conditions, vines struggle into leaf and occasionally into flower, but it should be remembered that it is futile to expect a free and luxuriant growth—which is a vine’s chief. charm—where the plants are neglected, or per- haps actually abused. It is common to observe a plant obtained from a florist or nurseryman turned out from a pot into a hole barely large enough to receive the ball of earth and dug in ground which has not been prepared by culti- vation of any sort for the reception of the roots. Naturally such treatment will not lend encouragement to the best and _ healthiest
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growth of the vine. It is far better to make too much preparation than to starve plants by too little. The ideal method to pursue, whether the vines be annuals or perennials, is to trench the ground thoroughly where they are to go, either working well-rotted manure into the old compost or filling in with a rich, fresh, friable loam.
Good sound loam is the best soil for the greatest number of climbing plants and, unless the amateur is experienced with varieties which are difficult to grow, he will find that this soil, with the addition of manure, will insure him excellent results. Where soils are stiff they ean frequently be put into good condition by the addition of leaf mold, some sand and the manure, and where the soils are thin or sandy the addition of loam together with the manure will often prove effective.
CULTIVATION
If plants are ordered from a nursery and are received in pots, they may be planted out at almost any season between early spring and late autumn. In planting those that have been erown in pots, they should be turned out gently, disturbing as little as possible the root ball.
VINES 835
Make sure that the hole prepared for the re- ception of the plant is ample and that the roots when they begin to reach out into the new soil
will- not encounter obstacles in the form of .
stones or unyielding clods to impede their progress and stunt the plant by starvation. It is usually best after planting to make the soil firm and solid. Then see to it at once that the plants have something upon which to lift themselves until they fasten by the natural means they employ to the permanent support upon which they are to chmb upward. When vines require tying, the operation should be- gin immediately, even though the stem to be operated upon may be exceedingly short. It may perhaps be of some service to suggest that where vines are to be established in soil already crowded with the roots of trees or shrubs, a bottomless wooden cask or box may be sunk and this in turn filled with a suitable compost which will enable the climber to make sufficient root growth to support itself until it has gained strength and can hold its own with the other roots.
While it is important to give consideration to the proper preparation of the soil where the climber is to be planted, it must not be
84 YARD AND GARDEN
forgotten that it will respond generously to— good treatment accorded after it has estab- lished itself. Only too frequently vigorous vines display signs of failure and decrepitude because their roots fail to find food enough to supply them with sustenance. Such plants
Flowers of the Clematis (Clematis Jackmani)
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ean be re-invigorated and maintained in healthy, thriving condition by annual applications of manure and an occasional top dressing with fresh soil and artificial fertilizers. Liquid ma- nure, wherever it can be applied without of- fensive effects, will be found the most rapid agent in restoring a plant’s strength and vigor.
VINES 85
Then also it must be remembered that vines erowing against walls where they are subjected to the direct and reflected rays of the sun re- quire suitable quantities of water and, in dry weather, should be bountifully suppled with moisture. Apply the water by letting it soak into the soil until the ground is thoroughly sat- urated for a depth of half a dozen inches or more.
Another point in the cultivation of some vines is that a few of them thrive best when the lower part of the stems is shaded from the direct effects of the sun, even though the top portions may be in the direct line of the sun’s rays. Such a vine is the clematis. Its requirement in this respect is easily satisfied by planting in front of it or near it some small plant which will supply the shade it desires.
PRUNING
The beginner is likely to hear much on the subject of the necessity for pruning permanent vines, and no doubt he will encounter many op- posing opinions. It is practically impossible, however, to detail the various treatments which the different plants require. It must be remembered that some vines produce their
86 YARD AND GARDEN
flowers on the old wood matured the season before, and in such instances the strong growths should not be cut back, but the weak ones, how- ever, should be sacrificed without hesitation and all decayed wood should be cut out imme- diately upon its discovery. Other vines pro- duce their bloom on the young shoots of the eurrent season and in such cases it is the old wood that should be eliminated and the fresh young shoots encouraged. Still others flower only on spurs that are sent out by the old wood and these climbers are best pruned by cutting out the weakly shoots and reducing the length of those remaining. But in every case a study of the particular species is essential. In some instances where the climbers have been set in position where they are not on parade, it is probably the wisest policy to limit the pruning to which they are submitted to the cutting out of the dead wood. ‘This, however, is not to be taken as a general policy to follow for, wher- ever the best results are desired, pruning will be found to be essential. Even the freest rambling- rose is materially benefited and im- proved by pruning which, to the novice, may appear to be extraordinarily and uselessly se- vere. Clematis, too, must be cut back if it is
VINES 87
to produce the best results of which it is capa- ble.
In decorating a yard the gardener will find that vines lend themselves to any plan he may devise. In fact, it is hardly possible that his yard can be artistically planted without the use of vines in numerous varieties. He should remember that they require but little room and lift themselves above the other plants, mak- ing it possible to set vines and shrubs in the same bed or border if desired, and thereby obtain an effect which, were flowers and shrubs alone relied upon, would be well nigh impossi- ble. It requires, indeed, but little consideration to arrive at the conclusion that, however small the space to be planted, there may be vines in every desirable nook and corner, and _ still neither the lawn nor the flower-beds and bor- ders will be encroached upon to any great ex- tent.
PERENNIAL VINES
Although there are innumerable sorts ready for the planter’s use still it is best to rely for the most part on the better-known varieties. A vine which will respond generously to the treatment accorded it by the average novice is the Virginia Creeper (Ampelopsis quinquefo-
88 YARD AND GARDEN
lia). Its good points are its quick growth, its absolute hardiness, its extraordinary beauty when it wears its summer dress of green foliage and its gorgeous hues when it dons an autumn robe of red and adds a touch of purple with its dainty berries. The Virginia Creeper, or woodbine as it is sometimes called, is easily obtained and can be found in almost any wood, or growing along fences by country roads. It is available for use as a screen and with its rapid growth will hide a multitude of sins in a surprisingly short time. Its one bad feature, so far as small places are concerned, is its tendency to grow to the top, and as the top gains in strength and mass of spread, the vine ceases to show leaves near its roots. While this makes a plant desirable for growing up old trees or for hiding from view dead tops, it renders it of little use in screening objects of less height, although in its younger years it answers this purpose very well. It tends also to exhaust the soil rapidly and its roots ramble subterraneously over a ‘considerable territory. The familiar ‘‘Dutchman’s Pipe,’’ (Aristolochia macrophylla), however, a robust erower with enormous leaves, continues to throw out its foliage from the base and so
City Residence Covered with Woodbine is quinquefolia )
(Ampelops
90 YARD AND GARDEN
answers admirably for covering whatever it erows upon near the ground. It is also a climber but, growing with uniform density from the base up, it is suitable for arbors or large fence spaces or for verandas and pergolas. Considering the climbing roses as vines, the strongest growers and those producing under ordinary treatment the best results, are the Crimson Rambler with red blossoms and the Dorothy Perkins with pink. Both are entirely hardy and will thrive year after year, especially if pruning is attended to with any degree of regularity. The Wichuraiana rose is also de- sirable, its foliage being to a considerable ex- tent evergreen, a feature which makes it of value in situations which are conspicuous in the winter. The Wichuraiana is also known as the Memorial Rose, and though it lacks the bril- lant color of the Crimson Rambler, in some respects it is better than the latter. As a climber for covering porches, trellises and arches or as a creeper for covering steep banks, it is probably unequalled so far as the roses are eoneerned. Another advantage it possesses is its apparent freedom from the attacks of in- sects or disease. One especial use to which it ean be put to advantage is to plant it in the
VINES 91
earth at the top of some high retaining wall or bank, letting its branches droop over and hang toward the level below. The Dorothy Perkins has the same strong habit of growth as the more familiar Crimson Rambler and the flowers are borne in clusters of thirty or forty.
From time to time new varieties of climbing roses are introduced and almost all of them are well worth planting but the beginner will doubt- less find that the red, pink and white blossoms of the Rambler, Dorothy Perkins and the Wich- uralana will answer his purposes. Climbing roses should be planted no closer than four feet and the soil in which they are set should be more deeply cultivated than for other vines. In training them avoid taking their stems in a di- rectly vertical course for this tends to take the sap to the top and to denude the lower part of the plant. Avoid this by bending the shoot in one direction or another then permitting it to take its upward trend if desired.
Clematises are familiar vines in many places and because of their good qualities should be even more extensively grown than they are. They require a fairly rich soil of a light, loamy character and will be all the happier if a little lime or old mortar is mixed with it. The soil
92 YARD AND GARDEN
in which they are planted should be well drained, and each year should be enriched by a top dressing of cow manure. They are used in many places to cover walls, mounds, trellises, arbors or porches. Unfortunately, clematises are subject to a disease which often results fa- tally. When planted close to buildings where the ground does not freeze to a great depth this disease is responsible for many disappoint- ments. It is due to a parasite which it is be- heved is killed by hard freezing; indeed, no other remedy so far as is known exists. The vines should in all cases be fastened securely to the trellises upon which they are supported to prevent their being whipped about by the winds; training the vines upon strings or simi- lar insecure devices is therefore to be avoided. Clematis flammula or sweet clematis blooms early in July; Clematis paniculata is a strong, vigorous grower and in late summer produces sheets of pure white flowers of the most pleas- ing fragrance. Both are perfectly hardy. The finest hybrids, including Clematis. Jackmani and its varieties, are widely used and much admired. The plants bear large, intense violet-purple flowers remarkable for richness of color; they are free in growth and abundant and successive
VINES
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94 YARD AND GARDEN
bloomers. Clematis Henryi is another good variety, a free grower and bloomer, bearing creain-white blossoms. A red variety of the large flowering Clematis can be had under va- rious trade names.
The Honeysuckle is valuable for many pur- poses and particularly for its sweet-scented flowers. Lonicera sempervirens, L. Japonica and L. Halliana, which is half evergreen in the north, are the best for general uses.
A vine which is especially valuable for cling- ing to walls is Ampelopsis Veitch, or Boston ivy, as it is popularly known. Its leaves are small and overlap one another, forming a sheet of green. It is somewhat tender in its early vears and requires, for the first winter at least, ample protection; once established, however, there is small danger of its suffering from low temperature. It grows rapidly and its folage is extraordinarily handsome in summer and as- sumes a crimson hue in autumn. It requires no support but clings to brick and stone strue- tures readily and, while it encounters some dif- ficulty in gaining a firm hold on wooden build- ings, it seldom fails to succeed in supporting itself.
Other vines which will thrive in the city yard
VINES 95
and which the planter should carefully consider when he is making his plans are the Trumpet Creeper (Tecoma radicans), Actinidia arguta, a strong-growing vine from Japan with large leaves and white purple-centered flowers; Akebia quinata, a rapid-growing vine bearing five-fingered leaves and sweet-scented flowers of a plum color, appearing near the end of April; Celastrus scandens, or the false bitter- sweet, with scarlet fruit pods that are highly ornamental; Wistaria multijuga, (known often- times as W. Chinensis), and W. speciosa. All these vines possess shrubby tops and do not die back in the fall. <A list of vines which die back to the ground or nearly so in winter but whose roots persist from year to year will include many of the most decorative plants of the sort for general use. Among these is the cinnamon vine (Dioscorea divaricata). An- other vine which should be more generally planted is Ewonymus radicans; it is a splen- did evergreen creeping plant with small pretty foliage and though it is rather slow growing, it is exceedingly useful for covering low stone walls or stumps. It has been said that it is not reliably hardy but in many situations it has endured a temperature as low as twenty de-
56 YARD AND GARDEN
grees below zero and this without any winter ‘protection whatever.
ANNUAL VINES
Among the annuals are many easily grown plants of extraordinary value and beauty. The morning-glories and moon-vines come under this head, and one might of course consider the sweet-peas as belonging to the same division. HKarly-growing nasturtiums—always effective when trained on low wire trellises—yield lux- uriant foliage and hundreds of flowers in the course of aseason. All are readily grown from seed and, with the exception of the sweet-peas, which require elaborate treatment compared with the others, will reward the planter with quantities of blossom even when they are neg- lected and abused. -Their rapid growth makes them especially useful as screens and frequently an unsightly spot in the yard where, for in- stance, a garbage can is kept, may be entirely hidden from view in a comparatively short time by the use of either nasturtiums or morning-’ olories. The latter have the troublesome habit of seeding themselves and when a vine is per- mitted to produce seeds, it is not unlikely that the planter thereafter will have some difficulty
VINES OF =.
in ridding the spot where it grew of volunteer vines in subsequent seasons.
TRELLISES
Where the perennial vines are planted it is best to give them artificial supports that are of a permanent nature. Nothing is gained by erecting flimsy trellises which, as soon as the vines have taken hold upon them, begin to waver under their weight. Old gas-pipe is to be had very cheaply in most cities and this, when well set in the ground, affords a splendid and ef- fective support which will last many years, and, once the vine is established upon it, will relieve the gardener of the necessity of marring the growth by tearing it down in order to strengthen the support. When vines are to be attached to frame houses which, of course, will require painting from season to season, it is best to provide a support which is separate from the wall. This may be made of wire net or of wood lattice and, if constructed with some thought, may be removed, with the vine cling- ing to it, laid back until the painter has com- pleted his work, and then, without disturbing the climber, replaced. Such devices are best made of a strong wood frame upon which the
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wire net is stretched. If desired, the bottom of the frame may be attached to the house by hinges and the top made secure by screws which ean be readily removed. With these with- drawn, the trellis can be laid back on its hinges and, the painters departed, quickly restored to its former position.
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CHAPTER’ VI
ANNUALS
It is with annual rather than with biennial or with perennial plants that most planters of small city gardens are familiar. The three groups are well marked and the characteristics of each well defined. Annuals, strictly speak- ing, are plants which normally survive but a single season, maturing from seed, producing seed and completing their cycle of life. Bien- nials live two years and the term, accurately applied, describes an exceedingly small group of plants which do not bear flowers or fruit until the second season following the planting of the seed. Of all the species of seed-bearing plants, it has been estimated that only one or two per cent. are true biennials. Perennials live from year to year and include, naturally, trees, shrubs and herbs, but, as the term is gen- erally employed in relation to decorative gar- dening, it is applied to those non-woody plants more properly known as ‘‘hardy herbaceous
LOorgq 99
100 YARD AND GARDEN
perennials.’? These include such well-known species as Peony and Phlox.
GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF ANNUALS
Among the annuals are found some of the showiest plants in cultivation, and, inasmuch as they are, generally speaking, easily grown,
Annual Phlox (P. Drummondit)
additional merit on this account must be ac- corded the group. They afford a variety of brilliant colors and delicate fragrance, produce quick results, bloom at various seasons and at- tain varying heights. They are valuable in beds by themselves, as edgings for other beds or for walks, as trailers or vines, or in con-
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junction with borders of hardy shrubs or herba- eeous plants. In the latter employment they serve to replace perennials that failed to sur- vive the winter or to cover bare spots which frequently occur in the hardy borders.
Annuals are usually divided into three classes:
(1) Hardy annuals, or those sown directly in the open ground where they are to bloom. Many of these resent transplanting and, when the seeds have germinated, demand only thin- ning. Hardy annuals are the earliest to be sown outdoors.
(2) Half-hardy annuals, or those which are usually sown indoors under glass and later transplanted to the blooming beds. Sown out- doors, weather conditions must be such as to indicate that all danger of frost is past.
(5) Tender annuals, or those which require more heat than the half-hardy varieties, and which can not be safely transplanted outdoors until there is an assured temperature of not less than fifty-five or sixty degrees. These also are started indoors.
Catalogues usually make these divisions, and when once the meaning of the term is thor- oughly understood there is less danger of fail-
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ure on the part of the amateur in dealing with them. EARLY PLANTING
To obtain early flowers from annuals, in the North, seed must be sown in flats or pans or boxes and set in sunny windows until the seed- lings grow strong enough to bear transplant- ing. Often this is begun entirely too early.
Single and Double Zinnias
Dwelling houses, as a rule, are altogether un- suitable for raising plants successfully from seed, and especially for ‘‘growing them on,’’ as the florists call it, until it is time to set them out in outdoor beds. The seed, in most in- stances, will germinate, and, given the rnght
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conditions, the seedlings will thrive, but most beginners find it impossible to give the little plants these ‘‘right conditions.’’ It is, there- fore, best to give them as short a period in the house as possible and, at the same time, effect a gain in point of early flowering. So, instead of attempting to gain too much time, which in seven cases out of ten results in absolute fail- ure, it is better to gain, say only three weeks, and have the effort crowned with success. To do this, sow the seeds in the house in the first week of April. There is much expert advice, of course, to the effect that March sowing is none too early, but there are, so far as the ex- periences of beginners are concerned, com- paratively few cases where results from March sowing in the long run equal those of April planting.
INDOOR SOWING
The best plan to follow is to adopt the method employed by the florist—sow the seeds in flats. ‘*Flats’’ are more convenient than mysterious; they are easily made, cheap and admirably adapted to the purpose. They are nothing more than boxes, twelve or eighteen inches wide and twice as long and three or four inches deep.
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The width.and length may vary to suit the planter, although a box a foot and a half wide and two and a half or three feet long is more easily handled, but the depth must not be greater than four inches. Three, probably, for the average amateur is better. Empty cigar boxes are often used, and do very well indeed. Bore half a dozen holes in the bottom and over these place bits of crock, concave enough in form to permit surplus water to escape under them easily and quickly. Next put in a layer of coarse earth—unsifted loam—and, on top of this, place the finer soil. This must be sifted, made rich with old manure, with sand enough added to render it thoroughly porous. Press the soil down firmly, especially along the ends and sides and in the corners, dampen slightly, and sow the seed.
Sow very fine seed broadeast, scattering it thinly over the surface and pressing it in the soil with a block of wood. For larger seeds, sprinkle a little dirt on top—barely enough to cover them—and for seeds large enough to handle separately supply a heavier covering of soil. A safe rule to apply is to plant the big seeds at a depth three times their diameter. If, after the seed is planted, it appears that the
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soil is too dry, sprinkle hghtly with water, tak- ing care not to wash the seed out. Then cover the box or flat with a glass and sheet of white paper and place it in a warm place. A shelf above a radiator or stove is a fairly good situa- tion, provided the heat is not too intense. Lit- tle light is needed until the seeds germinate,
Snapdragon China Aster
when, of course, they must be moved to lighter quarters. Watch the glass closely, for it will act, in a sense, aS a barometer. When there is too much moisture in the soil, drops will form on the glass. Raise it and wipe off the surplus moisture, and let it remain elevated so that the dry air can strike the earth and rid it of the
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excess dampness. Careful attention to this de- tail will prevent the ‘‘damping off’’ of the seed- lings, which so often discourages the beginner. If, on the other hand, the soil threatens to be- come too dry, sprinkle lightly with water, or, if the flat be small enough, set it in a pan of luke-warm water and let it absorb the water through the drainage holes in the bottom.
As the plants make growth, give more air, removing the white paper entirely and slightly elevating the glass. As growth continues, sup- ply more air, and when the seedlings put out their second leaves place the flat in a lght, warm window, making sure to screen the boxes from the sun. White paper is also excellent for this. When the first true leaves appear, dispense with the glass and gradually expose the plants to more sun.
TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS
By the time conditions outdoors permit trans- planting, the seedlings should be strong enough and at the same time enough hardened to en- dure the shock without any marked set-back. But in some instances it may be necessary to _transplant before the outside conditions will permit a transfer immediately to the blooming
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bed. In such case transplant either to other flats—constructed in the same way—or else to what are called ‘‘thumb pots,’’ miniature flower pots easily obtained of any florist at very small cost. These, however, are not necessary, any sort of receptacle serving very well for the seedlings. In transplanting thus to other
Transplanting Seedlings to ‘* Thumb-Pots.”
boxes, allow the young plants all the space you ean afford; if set too close together their roots will intertwine and it will be difficult later on, when you come to set them in their permanent beds, to separate them without damaging them severely.
In any case, it is very important that the
108 YARD AND GARDEN
seedlings do not become spindly. To prevent this, increase the light and turn the boxes oc- casionally, so that one side is not always next to the window.
Select seeds for planting indoors with some care. Earliness alone is hardly worth striving for. The plant so treated blooms for only a definite period, say four weeks. In such a ease, of course, what you would gain at one end you would lose at the other. But in many instances, especially in the case of verbenas and petunias, a month’s start means a clear gain, for the plants, once they begin to bloom, will continue to bloom until frost.
IMPORTANCE OF GOOD BEDS
It is strange, to say the least, that many persons observe carefully all the little points necessary to insure success with seeds planted indoors, but prepare the outdoor beds in a man- ner at once indifferent and careless. Three- fourths of the failures are due to this lack of thoroughness. In spring, the most of us, whether flower-raising is our hobby or not. want to plant. We rush into it, hastily and in- completely preparing the beds, sow the seeds, watch with increasing interest the germination,
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and then feel not only regret but wonder when the seedlings droop, witther and die. We at- tribute the trouble to the seeds. But the simple truth is, the fault is our own. We deliberately precipitate a floral tragedy; we deceive the plants; lead them to believe that the alluring surface conditions with which we provide them extend to sufficient depth to accommodate their roots, but when they reach out and down, hope- fully and trustfully, they encounter stones and clods and soil as hard as cement. Not even the spade could penetrate it easily. The hot sun bakes the surface soil, blisters the fine roots, and, in the end, instead of bloom and frag- rance, we have a dismal bed of dead and dying plants. :
The careful gardener provides against any such catastrophe with his annuals by preparing his beds with that thoroughness which alone insures success. He realizes that it is better to spend time and labor in the beginning and to begin right than.to exhaust patience later and suffer disappointment as well. A poorly made bed never produced a good flower, and ‘annuals, although quick in their growth, de- mand proper rooting conditions if they are to do their best.
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THE MOST SUITABLE SOIL
The ideal annual flower-bed is within the reach of every person who has any flower-bed at all. First of all, it means suitable soil, and, in the second place, it means thorough treat- ment of this soil. If your ground is heavyy— clayish in quality—or light—due to too much
Stocks Shirley Poppies
sand—it is often best to get rid of it entirely. Outline the size of the bed, making sure not to make it too wide to permit easy access to every part of it, and excavate the poor soil to a depth of two feet. Cart it away. Level off the bot- tom and place a five- or six-inch layer of drain-
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age material on it. Sand or gravel or cinders will answer the purpose. Then on top of this put in the new soil, which should consist of rich, fine loam, leaf-mold and well-rotted cow manure in approximately equal parts. In fill- ing, bring the surface of the bed three or four inches higher than the surface of the surround- ing ground, to allow for settling, and do not attempt to sow seeds or set out plants in it until this settling has occurred.
But if the soil where the bed is to be made is satisfactory, such trouble,. of course, is avoided. Remember, however, that where no bed has ever been made before, the earth must be spaded to a depth of eighteen inches at least —two feet is even better. All roots and stones must be removed and the clods thoroughly pul- verized. Begin by removing the surface soil to a depth of six inches, casting it to one side. Then spade the sub-soil to the required depth, incorporating with it well-rotted manure, and, when this is done, return the surface soil, mak- ing it as fine as possible—so fine, indeed, that it will readily pass through a sieve with a quar- ter-inch mesh. The surface soil is laid aside and finally returned to the top because it is always rich in humus, which furnishes the most
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available food for the young plants and tender rootlets. Nature herself, it will be observed, never turns the soil upside down. But in spad- ing up old beds, where it is only necessary to break the ground and pulverize the soil, it may seem impractical to keep the surface soil on the
Sweet Peas
surface. It is easily enough accomplished, however, if the old bed was properly prepared in the beginning. Simply insert the spade to the required depth and twist it from side to side, loosening the soil without turning it un- der.
But no matter what particular process you
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may elect to follow in making your bed, re- member these points:
Provide depth, and in the sub-soil incorpo- rate manure.
Never turn the surface soil under.
Thoroughly pulverize the surface—it can not be made too fine. 3
By following these suggestions the founda- tion for success is laid. Enriching the sub-soil and giving depth are essential because the two processes combine to draw the roots of the plants downward and away from the surface, where the sun’s heat will bake them. Pulver- izing the surface soil makes it possible to sow the finest seed with satisfactory results.
THE TIME FOR PLANTING
In sowing seeds it is well to remember that April in the North is a month of many moods. The warmth of one day, which seems to presage the end of spring frosts, may be nothing more than a ‘‘weather-breeder.’’ It may end in a cold night and a succession of cold days, when whatever has been planted in the way of tender annuals succumbs, and the gardener’s work has been for nothing. Therefore, do not be im-
114 YARD AND GARDEN
patient to plant. It is better to wait until the ground is warm and all danger of frost is past than to be too early; give your impatience outlet by working the soil in the beds.
But by the fifteenth of April it is ordinarily safe to plant such of the hardier annuals as the Cornflower, Sweet Sultan, Calendula, Calli-
Petunias opsis, Petunia, Sunflower, Morning-glory, Sweet Alyssum, Poppy, Candytuft, Mignonette. The last three, it must be borne in mind, will not bear transplanting, and must be sown where they are to bloom.
The gardener who has a choice of location for his beds of annuals should remember that
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most of them prefer open, sunny situations, but some of them, such, for example, as pansies and forget-me-nots, thrive where they get the full sunshine for only half a day.
OUTDOORS SOWING
It is in sowing the seeds of annuals outdoors that imexperienced amateurs make the most blunders. After the seed beds have been pre- pared as already directed, mark off rows on the surface from six to twenty-four inches apart. Be sure to make the rows straight. If, however, the planter desires, the planting may be done in circles, keeping the circles the same distance apart. In every instance the space between the rows or circles is determined by the height or size of the plant at maturity. Allow plenty of room for growth and do not crowd. Sow fine seed in the rows as thinly as possible, and, after the true leaves form, thin, permitting such to remain as stand as far apart in the rows as the rows themselves are far apart. Sow heavier and larger seeds one at a time and a little thicker than they are to stand when they begin growth; this allows for fail- ures. When the seed is sown, sift a light covering of soil over the finer seeds—barely
ric YARD AND GARDEN
enough to assist in firming them in the ground, and then, with a smooth board or block of wood, gently pat down the surface, making the entire bed smooth. Be sure to label the rows if dif- ferent varieties are planted, and it is best, usually, to mark on the labels the date of plant-
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Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
As soon as the seedlings have made enough growth, be on the lookout for weeds, and as fast as they appear rid the beds of them. Weeds quickly overcome the tender flowers, and either kill them entirely or cause such a set-back that the plants do not readily recover. Prepare also to afford such support as some annuals
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may require, supplying twigs or stakes for them to depend upon, or, in some instances, wire netting or something similar—as in the ease of sweet-peas—for them to climb over.
Good flowers, it must be remembered, do not grow in neglected beds. Cultivation alone will bring out the best that there is in plants of any sort. And cultivation means a little more than the daily sprinkle of water over the beds. It means a little more than weeding. Still the work it embraces is neither arduous nor exhausting and, if a little be done each day, will scarcely occupy any time at all. It is pos- sible, for instance, to keep in perfect state of cultivation a garden of annuals fifty feet wide and fifty feet deep by devoting twenty minutes a day to the work it demands.
WATERING
Many amateurs fail because, after their gar- den is well started, they water, as the florists say, ‘‘injudiciously.’’ It is difficult to under- stand what is meant by the term, but not at all difficult to interpret it by the hght of some unfortunate experience. In the first place, some plants demand more water than others, and this, of course, should be taken into con-
118 YARD AND GARDEN
sideration. It should be taken into considera- tion when the plan of the garden is being laid out; group those flowers demanding much mois- ture together as nearly as possible and those demanding less moisture in groups distinct from the others. Then apply the water accord- ingly, abundantly or seantily as the case may
Sowing Seeds of Annuals
be, and at night. There is contrary advice, to be sure, but if the rule of applying the water at night is followed the flowers will all be bene- fited, and, at least, none will be harmed. But to water the beds in the late morning or early afternoon is dangerous, if not altogether fatal. Moreover, when water is applied, let the apph-
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eation be thorough. It does very little good to sprinkle the beds with a light mist from the hose or watering-can; this may often freshen the foliage after a hot, burning day, but it gives no water to the roots, where the moisture is necessary. It is, in fact, better to water in- frequently, provided the watering then is done thoroughly, than to water often and _ only lightly.
Keep the surface soil of the beds well stirred, and do not permit a hard crust to form. The process of weeding naturally tends to give the soil such cultivation as it requires in this respect, but often, when weeding is thoroughly - done, some weeks may pass before it appears necessary to repeat the work. It is in such in- tervals that the surface soil hardens and be- comes almost aS impervious to moisture as concrete, and at the same time, is quickly heated by the sun’s rays.
In selecting annuals for spring planting, be wary of ‘‘novelties.’’ Obtain the standards, which have been often tried and seldom found wanting. Only a few of the uncommon sorts, or those that are little known, are of value—if they were, they would very quickly cease to be uncommon. The old-time flowers are not easily
120 YARD AND GARDEN
displaced and the beginner will do well to rely in the main on pot marigolds or calendulas, clarkias, zinnias, balsams, candytufts, scabiosas, nasturtiums, poppies, calliopsis or coreopsis, phloxes, pinks, portulacas, China asters, stocks, sweet alyssum, cockscombs, silenes, petunias, sweet-peas and sunfiowers. For climbers none is better than the morning-glory or the nastur- tium.
PORCH AND WINDOW BOXES
In connection with the discussion of annuals, it is fitting that there should be something said of porch and window boxes. Often the earth inclosed in these is the only ground some un- fortunate city resident possesses; it must be- come his garden and his domain and therein he must raise the flowers with which to grace his. residence in summer. Porch and window boxes may be filled with foliage or flowering plants, which, onee they are established, will add im- measurably to the appearance of the residence and contribute generously toward redeeming the big city of its barren ugliness. These little box gardens, whether they are simple or elab- orate, are always effective, and the effective- ness is invariably out of all proportion to the
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cost involved. There is nothing in the way of planting, especially in large towns and cities, that will give a surer, quicker touch of indi- viduality and distinction to a residence at small cost and with little trouble than porch and win- dow boxes. |
Where there is a lawn, however small it may be, the boxes, with their green foliage and hang- ing vines, render less abrupt the line between lawn and foundation wall. Even where there is yard space enough to. permit the use of small shrubs or flowering plants, annuals or peren- nials, for the concealment of such walls, or the use of climbing vines to relieve the walls of any suggestion of obtrusiveness, the transition between lawn and architecture is less marked when box gardens are employed.
In recent years this fact has come to be more generally recognized, and, as a result, profes- sional florists each spring prepare thousands of plants for use in this manner. Moreover, it is possible nowadays to have them in gen- erous quantities at comparatively small cost. At the same time, the varieties offered for this purpose are increasing in number, and the range of choice now includes a score of plants which only a few seasons ago were sold at
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prices practically prohibitive so far as the purse of the average person is concerned.
PRACTICAL USES OF BOX GARDENS
When cost is considered, however, there should be some thought given to the usefulness of the boxes. In a modest way such gardens have a practical value. Not only do they add beauty to a house and in this respect prove their esthetic or ornamental value, but they frequently serve as effective screens, as when, on a porch without a railing, the boxes are used as a substitute. Wherever they are so em- ployed it is seldom that the owner feels willing to abandon them for the usual balustrade. Again, when set before windows, they satis- factorily obstruct the view from ‘the outside, ~ though not materially interfering with the view from within. It might be mentioned, too, that by their use rooms may be rendered cooler in the hot days of summer, for the foliage of the plants will break the direct rays of the sun, and the evaporation of the water appiied to the boxes will in some degree reduce the heat of the atmosphere.
There is still another practical value which should not be overlooked. Persons who do not
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own their homes, but, on account of prefer- ence or for other reasons, rent them, may feel reluctant to expend even a comparatively small sum in the ornamentation of a place which is not their own. While such an excuse, in view of the small cost of the seed of quick-growing annuals, is extremely weak, still porch and win- dow boxes present an immediate and happy solution. Easily moved from place to place, even when filled, they need never be abandoned, but can be carried away by the renter along with his furniture, and, though they may not appear to fit the new porch or the new windows, in all cases some use can be made of them, and usually they will be found to do as well in the new home as in the old. If one has window or porch boxes, therefore, he may move in mid- summer if he desires, and, by carrying the box gardens with him, he can impart to his new res- idence an atmosphere of permanency which he could not attain in any other way.
But if these miniature gardens possess numerous advantages, it must be remembered that all of them disappear immediately if the boxes are neglected. When they are allowed to languish for want of care and attention, instead of adding beauty to a place, they be-
126 YARD AND GARDEN
come shabby and fade or wither, and remain a - constant reflection on the planter, who was either careless or indifferent enough to permit their decline.
As in all gardening operations, the way to prevent such unhappy results is to begin pro- perly. Time and labor spent in the beginning
means time and labor saved in the end. Give
the flowers or plants the most congenial con- ditions possible, and, with ordinary attention, they will thrive and amply reward the planter for his pains. Remember in the first place that growing plants in boxes is vastly different from growing them in beds in the ground. In boxes
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they are generally exposed on three or four sides, and moisture taken up by the soil quickly evaporates, leaving the plants dry and thirsty. Then remember, too, that the smaller the box the more rapid is the evaporation, the more cramped are the roots, and the more quickly is the plant food in the soil exhausted when over- crowded. THE PROPER BOX
In a word, begin properly by constructing the proper sort of box. Do not be niggardly with the lumber, and do not be fearful of get- ting the box too deep or too wide. Of course, in most instances, the planter—especially if he be the owner of his own home—must be gov- erned largely by conditions; he must construct his boxes to fit these conditions. But before he begins let him examine carefully the conditions, with a view to making the most of them. Often what seems to be impossible, on reflection be- comes possible, and where it appears at first that only a small box could be employed it be- comes apparent that by some other arrange- ment than the first contemplated, a larger box ean be used.
Boxes one foot deep and one foot wide, in- side dimensions, are not too large. As for
128 YARD AND GARDEN
length, use a number of boxes of less length rather than one or two boxes of longer size. This, however, is merely a matter of conven- ience; the shorter the boxes the more easily are they handled, and if one makes them both wide and deep, much of the weight occasioned by these generous dimensions is overcome by re- ducing the length. Obtain boards fourteen inches wide, other boards twelve inches wide, and all of them of inch stuff. The fourteen- inch boards are used as bottoms, and the twelve-inch boards are used for the sides and ends. It requires no mathematician to figure that, by employing such lumber, the task re- solves itself into sawing the boards to proper lengths and nailing them together. By secur- ing the sides and ends on top of the bottom boards, it will readily be seen that the inside dimensions are a foot wide and a foot deep. In order to secure the boxes and prevent their pulling apart—for nails soon work loose—make liberal use of small angle-irons. These are fas- tened on the outside, for, when round-headed screws are used, they prove ornamental as well as useful. Occasionally one may use thin iron bands instead, but these, while more difficult to adjust, seldom prove as satisfactory as the
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Effective Grouping of Single Plants
130 YARD AND GARDEN
angle-irons. The boxes should never be set flat upon the floor of the porch, but should be sup- ported by pieces of ‘‘two-by-four.’’ Stout iron brackets firmly secured may be used to support the window boxes. In the bottoms of all bore quarter-inch holes at intervals of six or eight inches to insure drainage.
SOIL FOR BOX GARDENS
For the best results, only the best soil must be used. Obtain good rich loam—such, for in- stance, as is found directly under the roots of the grass in a fertile pasture—and with this mix well-rotted manure and sand. ‘The best compost is one-third loam, one-third manure and at least one-fifth sharp, clean sand. This, however, is a general mixture; for some plants it is not by any means the best. Ferns, be- gonias and caladiums, for instance, demand well-rotted leaf mold instead of the manure. But, even though rich soil is generously pro- vided, thrifty plants soon exhaust it, and the successful box gardener will not overlook this fact. During the summer, from time to time, he will supply additional plant food in the form of fertilizer. Liquid manure is always best and safest; use, if it can be-obtained, dried sheep
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manure. Set a pound of this, held im a cloth bag, in five gallons of water and let it remain until the solution takes upon itself the color of weak tea. Then apply it at the roots of the plants once a week. Weak solutions frequently applied are better than strong solutions applied less often. Bone meal may be used by sprink- ling it hghtly on the surface of the soil, but it is never as satisfactory as the liquid fertilizer.
CULTIVATION
Window boxes, even where their proportions are generous, require much water. As a mat- ter of fact they should be thoroughly watered every day if they are exposed to the sun, and in other situations often enough to prevent the soil from becoming dry. There is little danger of souring the soil if drainage has been properly provided. It is also necessary to keep the surface soil loose; never permit it to harden and cake. Avoid, too, the planting of flowers that demand sun in situations where only shade is to be had, and, on the other hand, do not waste time and effort by setting shade-loving plants in positions exposed to the full glare of the sun. Neither will thrive.
Usually the most perplexing problem is to
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select plants for the north side of the poreh or for the north windows. Trailing fuchsias, ivy geraniums, fancy caladiums, vineas, asparagus, Japanese morning-glories, glechoma and_be- gonias are all suitable, to say nothing of the numerous ferns. The common ‘‘umbrella plant’’ also does well in such situations, but requires more water than the others.
For boxes on the south, geraniums, antir- rhinums (‘‘snap-dragons’’), heliotrope, mau- randya, Phlox Drummondu, nasturtiums, ager- atum, weeping lantana, crotons, abutilons, eoleus, are all excellent, while on the east use tuberous begonias, nasturtiums, thunbergias, vineas, ivy geraniums, heliotrope, manettias, maurandya, antirrhinums and ferns.
CHAPTER VII
HARDY PERENNIALS
No class of plants is better adapted for the ornamentation of city yards than the hardy herbaceous perennials. Once established, they require comparatively little care and, provided they are properly planted, they will thrive from vear to year, multiply and at the end of three or four seasons, reward the planter with dozens if not scores of new plants with which to adorn additional space. Unlike annuals, they survive the winters, oftentimes with no_ protection whatever, and may be planted either in the spring or autumn, may be obtained as young plants or may be raised from seed.
CLASSIFICATION OF PERENNIALS
While it is hardly possible to give a clear definition of the herbaceous perennial and to distinguish between this and the biennial and annual, still it is understood that the herba- eeous perennial is a plant provided with per-
134
HARDY PERENNIALS 135
Meadow Sweet (Ulmaria Filipendula, known to the trade as Spirea Filipendula)
156 YARD AND GARDEN
ennial roots and a top that dies to the ground in the fall, such, for instance, as the peony, the columbine, the larkspur and the various forms of hardy ferns. Nurserymen, however, include in the list a number of closely allied species which possess evergreen foliage, such as the statice and the yucca and the evergreen creep- ing phlox and a number of Alpine plants.
American nurserymen now offer nearly three thousand species and varieties. Many of these, of course, are hardier than others and some require more generous treatment than others; and all vary in height and size, color of flower and period of bloom. It is only necessary to bear in mind that with such a list from which to select it is possible to have flowers in bloom from frost to frost. Indeed, with a judicious planting of spring-flowering bulbs and a lberal planting of herbaceous perennials not even the smallest city yard need be bloomless for more than four months in the year.
The perennials may be divided into three groups. The first will include those plants which are to be adapted for the garden of neat habit and form, requiring favorable conditions which a state of cultivation provides and which, . with only a little more than ordinary attention,
HARDY PERENNIALS 137
will attain perfection, persist from year to year and increase in size and vigor. The second group includes the perennial plants which are possessed of such aggressive habits that they are not well suited to the garden but are adapted rather to planting in situ- ations where they may remain undisturbed,
Catchfly (Lychnis Visearia, var. splendens)
and where their crowding and their irregu- lar, sometimes ragged, growth will not prove a disadvantage. The third division will in- elude plants that are best adapted to plant- ing in the wild garden or whieh, if established among trees or in remote corners of the large yard or grounds, will be in the midst of condi-
138 YARD AND GARDEN
tions that suit them best and under which they will meet with that natural restraint necessary to curb rampant growth and prevent encroach- ment on grounds set aside for other purposes. This class of hardy perennials is more fre- quently employed by the landscape gardener who has an area of considerable extent to plant than by the owner of a city lot.
The latter, however, will find that in the vari- ous species and varieties of the herbaceous per- ennials nearly every sort of plant is to be obtained which he may desire. The group affords plants for almost every situation, every soil condition, and for almost every purpose. Varying in height from the lowly growth of a ereeper to eight or ten and sometimes even twelve or fourteen feet, affording foliage that in itself is decorative, providing flowers for every month from early spring until late autumn, and including almost every shade in their range of color, the perennials are by all odds the best plants to establish in the space of the small garden.
While they are easily raised from seed very few of them bloom the first season when so planted. To: obtain immediate results, there- fore, it is best to obtain plants a year or more
HARDY PERENNIALS 139
old. This involves greater expense but it is far more effective. Such plants set out in the spring will bloom the following summer, or, if set out in the autumn, will endure the winter and, as the frost leaves the ground in the en- suing spring, will send up their tender foliage
Achillea Columbine (Achillea Ptarmica, (Aquilegia chrysantha) var. “ The Pearl”)
and bloom-stalks and, long before it is season- able for the planting of the seeds of annuals, they will be in vigorous growth. The gardener who has such plants to observe finds the early spring one of the most interesting periods of the whole year. He goes from bed to bed or border to border removing a bit of the win-
140 YARD AND GARDEN
ter cover here and a bit there, and finds beneath the litter the green shoots of the perennials showing above the ground. For Imm there is no impatient waiting until the last danger of frost is past before gardening operations may be begun, but, with the first pleasant days of sunshine, life stirs in his garden. From this time on he has only to take care that a sudden frost does not catch him unawares and nip the tender shoots.
WINTER PROTECTION ;
In the fail, when the frost has cut down the foliage and withered everything in the yard and when the trees have shed their leaves, the gar- dener has only to place a hght cover on his beds or borders to prepare for another season of bloom. This winter protection is heavy or light according to the location; in the northern section of the country a heavier covering of leaves or litter is required than in the southern portion ; in many sections of the latter the hardy perennials require no winter protection what- ever. The protection itself should be apphed as soon as the ground has frozen to the depth of an inch. If it is applied earlier there is often danger of mice nesting under the litter and, in
HARDY PERENNIALS 141
Globe Flower (Trollius Europeus)
142 YARD AND GARDEN
the spring, nipping the shoots as they appear above the ground, or in the winter making their way through the soft unfrozen earth to the roots and so damaging these that the plants perish. It is best in applying the litter, which should consist of leaves—preferably the leaves of hard-wooded trees—or clean straw, to lay on at first a light covering and to add to this later as the season advances and the severity of the weather may suggest.
The purpose of the covering is not so much to keep the ground from freezing as to protect the plants from the rending, tearing and upheav- ing effects of the alternate freezing and thaw- ing. It is this, rather than extreme Yor prolonged cold, that damages hardy perennials and the spring-flowering bulbs. The covering, therefore, should be only heavy enough to pro- tect the beds or borders from this danger. And it should be of such a nature that it will not pack or settle heavily on the surface of the soil and smother the plants by excluding the air.
PLANTING SEASON
While the perennials may be planted in the fall.as well as in the spring, unless the plants ean be obtained early in the fall it is better
HARDY PERENNIALS 145
as a rule to plant in the spring. The conten- tion that fall planting is as safe as spring plant- ing is due largely to the desire of various nur- serymen to relieve themselves of a portion of the spring rush. In the spring they have thou- sands of orders for seeds, and for summer- blooming or bedding plants to fill, and it is to
Swamp Rose (Hibiscus Moscheutos, var. “ Crimson Eye’’)
their advantage usually to urge autumn planting of such plants as can with any safety be set out at that season of the year.
As a rule, however, in the fall nurserymen will not disturb their plants until the season’s erowth is matured—which is only proper—but in many instances this is so late in the autumn
144 YARD AND GARDEN
that in sections of the north plants thus ob- tained can not establish themselves before the deep hard freezes of winter set in. The plants are not well prepared as a result to resist the cold, and, in the following spring, the gardener is likely to find that many of the plants have’ perished. He rushes to the conclusion, then, that perennials are anything but hardy and makes up his mind that hereafter he will con- tent himself with the usual spring planting of annuals. But where it is possible to obtain perennials early enough in the fall to insure some root growth in their new quarters before winter, the fall is quite as good a season for planting as the spring. Many gardeners have found that they are not able to obtain nursery- erown plants before October. In some sections October is early enough but in other sections it is too late and where this is obviously the case or, in other words, where the winter sets in early, fall planting is not at all advisable and the perennials should not be set out until spring.
* PREPARATION OF BEDS
Beds or borders wherein the herbaceous per- ennials are to be planted should be extraor-
HARDY PERENNIALS 145
Oriental Poppy (Papaver orientale)
146 YARD AND GARDEN
dinarily well prepared for it must be borne in mind that the plants are not annuals and_ that they are to remain undisturbed where they are set for three or four seasons. The ~ most of them, moreover, are gross feeders and require more plant food than the annuals. All the beds should be worked to a depth of two feet, though in some instances eighteen inches is sufficient. It is safer, however, to cultivate the soil to the greater depth—in by far the majority of instances this is required. In a word, every effort should be made by the gar- dener to provide ample depth for the growth of the roots, as it is only from vigorous root growth that the perennials can reach a state of perfection. The depth also is necessary to in- sure the plant against drought.
Underground drainage should be carefully looked to, especially in the borders where it is not intended to give the plants much attention until they have attained sufficient growth to demand lifting and dividing. Also it must be remembered that unless the drainage is good, plants will be in danger in winter when the frost penetrates to a sufficient depth to reach any water which may remain about their roots. In spading up the bed the sub-soil should be
HARDY PERENNIALS 147
mixed with a portion of the surface soil. It is not necessary to supply the former with any great amount of plant food, but in the spit above it there should be plenty of fertilizer, and the best for this purpose is well-rotted cow manure. In the fall a late top dressing of manure will assist in maintaining the fertility of the soil
Stoke’s Aster (Cyanea Stokesia)
and likewise afford winter protection. It is es- sential, however, not only to see that the soil is not impoverished but that it is not over en- riched; a surplus of food tends to weaken the plants and to render them lable to damage from the frost. In this connection it is well to emphasize once more the necessity for deep
148 YARD AND GARDEN
cultivation. Plants afforded a suitable rooting depth are less likely to be injured by a surplus of fertilizer than those which find it impossible to obtain a deep root-hold.
CULTIVATION FROM SEED
The middle of July is a good time to sow seeds of perennials. Good-sized plants may be
Bee Balm Balloon Flower (Monarda didyma) (Platycodon grandiflorum)
obtained before cold weather sets in and these will make blooming plants in many instances the following summer. Prepare the seed bed care- fully, providing a depth of a foot, and pulverize the soil even more finely than that prepared
HARDY PERENNIALS 149
for the seeds of annuals in the spring. Sow the perennials in shallow drills about four inches apart, thinning the seedlings as they begin to crowd or transplanting to other beds. It must be remembered that July sun is a good many degrees hotter than. the sun of early May. Annuals planted at the latter time are not likely to suffer greatly from scorching, but peren- nials, submitted to mid-summer heat and drought, have a hard struggle unless some shade is provided. A covering of laths is good for the purpose and these may be employed by erecting a framework two feet above the seed bed and upon this distributing the strips so that intervals of two inches are left between them. A shade will then be cast over the bed, but enough sun also will fall upon the ground to keep the seedlings in good health and the soil sweet. Water carefully, using a spray, and applying the moisture so gently that the plantlets will not be washed from their hold on the soil.
In the autumn, if the seedlings have attained a fair size and are healthy and vigorous, they may be transplanted to their permanent places in the border. Here they will come through the winter unscathed if the usual protection is af-
150 YARD AND GARDEN
Larkspur (Delphinium hybridum)
HARDY PERENNIALS 151
forded them and they are transplanted early enough to imsure their reestablishing them- selves before winter freezing puts an end to their efforts in this direction. Seedlings so grown are very often healthier than those ob- tained from nurseries. They transplant better, too, for their roots are exposed but a compar- atively short time and they suffer nothing through transit.
SHORT-LIVED PERENNIALS
Many of the perennials are best when treated as biennials. The lives of such are not long and the yearly renewal insures sturdy, vigorous, flowering plants. Among these short-lived per- ennials are the chimney bellflower (Campanula pyranudalis), Rocky Mountain columbine(Agqui- legia cerulea), leeland poppy (Papaver nudi- caule), ete. On the other hand, to attempt to raise some varieties from seed is to invite fail- ure. Some species have been greatly im- proved and, in many such instances, propaga- tion by means of seed is almost sure to result in seedlings of altogether inferior description. The better means of propagating such varieties is by division of the roots either in early spring or in the autumn. To this class many of the
152 YARD AND GARDEN
perennial phloxes belong and the hardy chrys- anthemums, the Japanese iris and the peonies.
ROOT DIVISION Propagation by root division is not difficult to effect. Either the early spring or autumn may be chosen for the work. The old plant
Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria)
should be carefully lifted, avoiding as much as possible damage to the root system, and the earth adhering to the roots should be shaken off or washed away by immersion in water. The root-stock and the tender rootlets leading from it are then fully exposed and the propaga- tor can see clearly where and how to cut. No
HARDY PERENNIALS 153
general rule for the cutting operation can be set down—different plants require different treat- ment. Some separate readily, the gardener finding himself in possession of half a dozen small plants almost as soon as the soil is cleared away, and with comparatively little cutting; others require the use of a knife or a similar instrument in order to effect the division. In the main, propagation by this method is simply ‘the separation of a large clump of roots and crowns into smaller plants. In the ease of plants possessing root stubs with buds or ‘feyes’’—as the peony—the division, if de- sired, may be carried to the extreme where only a single bud to a piece of root is retained. It is well in all propagation by division to divide those species in the autumn that bloom before July and those in the spring that bloom later in the year.
The separation of hardy perennials, how- ever, is more often practised in small yards and gardens to avoid over-crowding of roots and crowns. An iris, for instance, if allowed to re- main undisturbed in a bed or border for half a dozen years, forms a circular mass of hard root-stock from the center of which no leaf or flower stalks appear. Overcrowding is the
154 YARD AND GARDEN
cause of this ‘‘rim’’ blooming and the symptom itself should be indication enough that the time for division is at hand. All the perennials benefit naturally when lifted and divided; some, indeed, actually crowd or grow themselves out
Sweet William False Dragon-Head (Dianthus barbatus) (Physostegia Virginiana)
of existence. But it is searcely possible to es- tablish any rule for the practice—some plants will do best when allowed to remain four or five years without disturbance, while others will thrive only when divided every two seasons. The peony is an example of the former class and Phlox maculata of the latter.
Spirea (Aruncus astilboides, known to the trade as Spirewa aruncus)
156 © YARD AND GARDEN
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS
Another method of propagation is by cut- tings, but it rarely proves successful in the hands of the amateur. If he will provide him- self, however, with a box of clean, sharp sand, and is prepared to give the cuttings the at- tention they require, failure need not by any means be the result of his efforts in this direc- tion. Select a short piece of a foliage stem where the growth possesses a bud, lateral or terminal, and, making a clean cut with a sharp knife, insert the lower end of the cutting thus obtained in the moist sand. It is always best to have the lower end of the slip a node of the stem. Remove a part of the foliage of the cut- ting before insertion and cover the sand with glass in order to maintain the rooting medium at a slightly higher temperature than the or- dinary atmosphere. Propagation by this method has the advantage of insuring quick results and the perpetuation of the parent va- riety—not always certain, as already said, when seed is the only reliance.
CHAPTER VIII
SOME OF THE POPULAR PERENNIALS
It is doubtful whether a really comprehensive list of the most popular species of perennials could be prepared without doing some member of the large plant family an injustice. How- ever, a consensus of opinion seems to indicate that the following sorts belong in such a list: iris, peony, larkspur, hollyhock, phlox, anem- one, columbine, hemeroeallis, funkia, and rud- beckia. To these also might be added bleeding heart, lily-of-the-valley, helianthus, chrysan- themum, coreopsis, dianthus, campanula and poppy, and still the list would be by no means complete. Much, of course, depends on the tastes and desires of the individual and also upon the purpose for which the plants are to be employed.
This brings us once more to the fact that per- ennials afford material for almost every re- quirement. We have them for sunny and for shady situations; for rich soil, clay soil and
157
158 YARD AND GARDEN
sandy soil; for quiet and for bold effect; for purely decorative value and for cut-flower pur- poses; for forbidding, cold and windy stretches and for sheltered positions; for naturalizing and for more formal planting; for bloom in spring, in summer and in autumn, and in al-
Golden Glow (Rudbeckia laciniata)
most every variety of color and in varying heights.
Take for example the succession of bloom possible to be obtained by the use of herbaceous perennials alone. The following list suggests the possibilities but by no means exhausts the varieties *:
* The common trade or catalogue names are used in this list.
POPULAR PERENNIALS 159
APRIL Name Height Color
Adonis vernalis lft. Yellow Aquilegia Canadensis Lte- 2it.. Searlet Arabis albida 6to 8in. White Aubrietia deltoidea 3to 8in. Dark violet Dicentra spectabilis L640. 2itts ~ Pinks Helleborus niger 9in. White Helleborus orientalis, var.
atrorubens Sto 12in. Purple Hepatica triloba Gin. Light blue Iris verna 6in. Blue Sanguinaria Canadensis 8in. White Trillium erectum 12in. Brownish red
Boltonia (Boltonia asteroides)
MAY Aquilegia, in variety 1% to2¥% ft. White to blue Alyssum saxatile lft. Yellow Anemone Pennsylvanica Lio « 2:it. ¢ White Bellis perennis 6in. White and pink Convallaria majalis 9in. White
Doronicum plantagineum, var. excelsum lf to- ' S-tt.»,.Yellow
160
MAY — Continued
Name Height Geum montanum 12 in. Iberis sempervirens 8 in.
Iris Germanica, in variety 1%, to 3 ft. Iris pumila 8 in. Myosotis palustris, var.
semperflorens 8 in.
Peeonia officinalis and
vars. 1%to 3 ft. Peonia tenuifolia 12to 18 in. Phlox divaricata 10to 18in. Phlox subulata Creeping Polemonium ceruleum Lito wo ysaie Primula in var. 17 10° 2d; Trollius Europeus 114, to — 2 ff.
JUNE
Aquilegia, in variety 114 to 2% ft. Armeria maritima 6.10: -S:m, Astilbe Japonica lto . 3 ft. Baptisia australis Sib:
Callirhoe involucrata
Campanula Carpatica 10 in. Campanula persicifolia 11; to. “aan. Chrysogonum Virginianum 10 in. Clematis recta oto ca ik, Coreopsis lanceolata 14/,,to “W248 Coronilla varia 117, to-. 2°ik. Delphinium formosum 3to- 4 it. Dianthus barbatus 1, d07 2a.
Dianthus plumarius, in va-
riety 9'to 12in.
Dicentra eximia 1G0r 7 2 ne Dictamnus albus 2tor) otk. Digitalis purpurea 3to 4 it. Erigeron speciosus 1y, it Gaillardia aristata 144° ft. Geranium sanguineum 12 to “1S.am. Geum coccineum 12 to. 18 im: Helenium Hoopesii 2407 ott. Hemerocallis Dumortierii 114to 2 ft.
9to. 124n-:
YARD AND GARDEN
Color Yellow White Purple
der
Violet
and laven-
Light blue
Various
Crimson
Lilae-blue
Pink, blue,
Blue
Yellow, pink, pur- ple
white
White to blue Pink
White
Blue
Violet crimson Blue and white Violet
Yellow
White
Yellow
Bright pink Deep blue Mixed colors
White to pink
Rose
White
White and purple- spotted
Lilae
Yellow and maroon
Crimson
Scarlet
Orange-yellow
Orange
POPULAR PERENNIALS 161
JUNE — Continued
Name Height Color Iris Germanica, in var. 2 ft. Purple and laven- der
Tris levigata 3to 3% ft. Various Iris pallida 2to 3 ft. Indigo-blue Iris Pseudacorus 2 ft. Yellow Iris Sibirica 2 ft. Violet Lychnis Coronaria ly%to 2ft. Crimson Lychnis Haageana 12in. Red Lychnis Viscaria, var.
splendens 18in. Blood-red
Monkshood Foxglove (Aconitum Napellus) (Digitalis monstrosa) Lysimachia nummulari Creeping Yellow Lysimachia punctata lto 3 ft. Yellow (Enothera fruticosa 1%to sft. Yellow Papaver nudicaule 12to 15in. White, yellow and orange
Papaver orientale 2to2Y¥% ft. Orange, scarlet Pentstemon levigatus, var. :
Digitalis 2to 3ft. White Pyrethrum roseum 1%to 2ft. Pink and red Scabiosa Caucasica 15to 18in. White and blue
Spirea Aruncus 4to 5ft. White
162 YARD AND GARDEN JUNE — Continued Name Height Color Spirea Filipendula 1% to 2ft. White Spirea palmata 2to 4 ft. Crimson Spirea palmata, var. ele-
gans 2to3¥% ft. Pink Spirea Ulmaria 3 ft. White Thalictrum aquilegifolium 1%,to 2ft. White Thermopsis Caroliniana 3to 4ft. Yellow Trollius Europeus ly%to 2ft. Yellow Veronica rupestris Spreading Blue
JULY Achillea Millefolium, var.
rubrum Ltolies it. Red Achillea Ptarmica, var.
The Pearl ” 11, to 2 ft... White Althaa rosea, in variety 4to 5ft. White to crimson Anthemis tinctoria ly%to 2ft. Yellow Belemeanda Chinensis 3to 4 ft. Orange, spotted red Calimeris incisa lyto 2 ft. Lavender-blue Campanula alliariefolia 2 it. White Campanula glomerata, var. ;
Dahurica 1% to 2 f.. White Campanula Trachelium 2to 3 ft. Light purple Centaurea montana 15to-18ins Purple Chrysanthemum maximum,
var. Triumph 1% to 2ft. White Chrysanthemum Leucanthe-
mum hybridum ly, to> <2 ites py ire Cimicifuga racemosa 3to 8 ft. White Delphinium grandiflorum,
var. Chinense O09 oubt--e sb lee Digitalis ambigua 2to » 3ft.. Yellow Echinacea purpurea 21, to 3 it. — Purple Eryngium amethystinum 1%, to 2 ft. Amethyst-blue Euphorbia corollata LtO= 93 du. VN nuke Funkia Fortunei 2 tt. Pale lilae Funkia lancifolia 2 ft.. Pale Jdilae Funkia ovata 2 ft. Lavender Gypsophila paniculata 2 tO whe at. savy hibe Heliopsis levis, var.
Pitcheriana Sto. 4 ft. Yellow Hemerocallis, in variety 2%+to 3 ft. Yellow and orange Heuchera sanguinea 12 to 18in. Coral-red Inula ensifolia Sin. Yellow
POPULAR PERENNIALS
JULY — Continued
Name
Lavandula vera Lychnis Chalcedonica Lychnis vespertina, var. flore-pleno Lysimachia clethroides Monarda didyma Cnothera. Missouriensis Cinothera fruticosa, var. major Cénothera speciosa Pentstemon barbatus
Height
| oN fh oe 2, to 3% ft. i 56 es 3 we DLO. -Sotte PAO) «sche dibs 10 in.
1S GOr, Lean. 12 to! SES aime 2toO” ott
165
Color Lavender-blue Searlet
White White Searlet Yellow
Yellow White Scarlet
Chrysanthemum, “ Shasta Daisy ”
Pentstemon ovatus
Phlox paniculata, in va- riety
Platycodon grandiflorum
Spirea lobata
Stachys Betonica
Statice Tatarica
Stokesia cyanea
Tradescantia Virginiana
Veronica longifolia, var. rosea
Veronica Virginica
2 to
11% to 15 to
3 to 12 to 12 to 15 to 11% to
3 ft.
5 Et. 18 in. AEG. 18 in. 15 in. 18 in. Ps 5
Rosy purple
Various
Blue and white Pink
Rosy pink
Red Lavender-blue Purple
Rose White
164 YARD AND GARDEN
AUGUST Name Height Asclepias tuberosa toe Zit: Aster Nove-Anglie, var.
roseus : BNO = a1 tts Bocconia cordata 4to. 6 ft. Boltonia asteroides Ato ‘64t: Boltonia latisquama 4 ft. Clematis Davidiana 20 ott: Funkia subeordata, var.
grandiflora 2 it. Helenium in var. 1, to -6 it. Helianthus in var. Zo LONG: Hibiscus Moscheutos, var.
Crimson Eye 4to. 5 ft. Liatris graminifolia TEVA 50 ee Liatris spicata 3to 4 ft. Phlox paniculata in var. 14, to 5 ft. Physostegia Virginiana 3to 4 ft.
Rudbeckia laciniata, var.
Golden Glow 6to 8 ft. Rudbeckia triloba 3to 4 it. Vernonia Arkansana 5 to » Giit. Veronica longifolia, var.
subsessilis 1a, to . 3k.
SEPTEMBER Aconitum Fischeri 2.60: co skts Aster Amellus, var. ele-
gans Lae to |, 250k. Campanula pyramidalis 240. 4-40. Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 6 in. Chelone Lyoni 11,40!” 2: ft Chelone obliqua, var. alba 11%, to 2 ft. Chrysanthemum in var. 2to. Att: Conoclinium cclestinum Li, toc 20. Eupatorium ageratoides oto. +, 4ane. Helenium in var... LIGkO — Oubus Helianthus in var. 2'to 10 £6, Lobelia cardinalis Lite: Sur Lobelia syphilitica io a Aas
Phlox paniculata, in va-
riety 1% to 5 ft.
Color Orange
Bright rose White
White
Light lilac Lavender-blue
White Yellow Yellow
White, crimson cen- ter
Rosy purple
Deep purple
Various
Deep rose
Double yellow Yellow, black cone Purple
Deep blue
Blue
Purple Blue Blue Rose-purple White Various Blue Searlet Yellow Yellow Searlet Blue
Various
POPULAR PERENNIALS 165
Veronica (Veronica longifolia, var. subsessilis )
166 YARD AND GARDEN
SEPTEMBER — Continued
Name Height Color Rudbeckia in var. lto 8ft. Yellow Sedum spectabilie I2to 15m, Rese Senecio pulcher 1% to 3ft. Rosy purple
OCTOBER Aconitum autumnale a to° “Git Bie Anemone Japonica, in va- riety 2to 3ft. White to carmine Aster Tataricus - 4to 7 ft. Purple Chrysanthemum in var. 2to 4ft. Various Solidago, in variety 2to 5ft. Yellow
MES
Plantain Lily Yellow Day Lily
(Funkia subcordata var. (Hemerocallis aurantiaca, grandiflora) . var. major)
[This list is based on an average season in the latitude of Philadelphia; a rough and ready ealeulation allows six days’ difference, either earlier or later, to every degree of latitude south or north. |
POPULAR PERENNIALS 167
CARE AND ARRANGEMENT OF PERENNIALS
While perennials, once established, demand little attention compared to annuals, this does not mean that they will continue healthful and
Transplanting hardy perennials
vigorous if neglected. On the contrary, they demand care and cultivation. In addition to the division, which must not be neglected where the plants show plainly—as_ they will—that they need it, weeds must be suppressed and
168 YARD AND GARDEN
the surface soil must be kept open and loose. For this latter purpose, as well as for weeding, no tool is better than a digging fork with prongs three inches long and an inch apart. In pulver- izing the surface soil with this, be careful not to injure surface roots and avoid working the ground when it is wet. Watering,,also, must be looked after wherever water for such purposes is available—few city yards are without such ‘ supply—and the moisture should be applied liberally. Soak the ground thoroughly, not merely sprinkling the surface and the foliage of the plants, and make sure that the supply reaches the roots.
It can be readily understood that no arrange- ment of perennials in beds or borders that does not take into consideration the heights, colors and blooming periods of the plants can prove satisfactory. It is necessary to know the heights of the various species employed in order to avoid planting the taller-growing va- rieties in front of the dwarf sorts; it is neces- sary to know the colors of the bloom in order to avoid a clash of tints and shades which, if grown in juxtaposition, would prove anything but harmonious; and it is necessary to know the blooming seasons of the plants in order to
POPULAR PERENNIALS 169
insure a succession of flowers. When these few points are mastered—surely not much to know about plants which are to be introduced in our yards or gardens as our companions for several years to come—effective groupings can be ar- ranged without difficulty. For instance, where peonies are planted, phloxes could also be used; the bed or border then would not be bar- ren of bloom when the peonies have departed in early summer. As another instance, orien- tal poppies would not be planted by themselves if the situation selected were a conspicuous one, for the planner and planter would know that, by the end of June, when the poppies have bloomed, the foliage of the plants becomes rag- ged and, a little later, disappears entirely. 'T'o avoid leaving a gap in the border or a barren bed in the yard, other perennials, later in their period of blooming, would be planted with the poppies to follow with flower and foliage when the latter have ceased to be decorative. Perennials serve another exceedingly useful purpose when planted with shrubs. When the blossom of the latter has passed, the herbaceous plants will throw their flower spikes to add a touch of color here, another there, to groups which otherwise would be without flower.
CHAPTER IX
BULBOUS- AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS
No class of plants presents more commenda- ble features for planting on the small city lot than the bulbous- and tuberous-rooted section and none will more richly reward the amateur for the labor and time he may expend in estab- lishing them. They are almost certain to pros- per under his treatment, provided a few sim- ple and easily mastered rules are followed. Much of the spring charm of well-planted yards ean be attributed almost exclusively to the free use of plants of this order and so far as later months are concerned, we have only to reflect upon the many flowers of this character, bloom- ing until autumn frosts cut them down, to rec- ognize and appreciate their extraordinary claims upon our attention.
Every year hundreds of thousands and prob- ably millions of hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, nareissi and other bulbs are planted and, con- sidering the immense numbers set out, it is
170
Uspiexy prex APIO B UT Ske SnsstIeN
171
BULBS
172 YARD AND GARDEN
safe to say that no other class of plants brings so few disappointments to the cultivator. This is accounted for, of course, by the great ease with which they may be brought into bloom and by the readiness with which they seem to be able to adapt themselves rapidly to various conditions of soil and situation. Only occa- sionally do they fail, but even in such instances, provided the bulbs have been properly planted, the fault can not always be laid at the door of the amateur. It may be traceable to the bulb beds of Holland where the plants were brought forward to the flowering stage before they were offered to purchasers.
VARIETY OF TUBEROUS PLANTS
In speaking of bulbs, botanical definitions are not generally observed. Commercially the term applies to a considerable class of flower- ing and ornamental plants which, were it strictly employed, would be excluded from the list. Nurserymen and dealers in seeds and bulbs, however, include in this class in addition to true bulbs many that are known by botanists as corms, such as the Crocus and Gladiolus ; suc- culent tubers, as the Dahlia; fleshy, creeping rhizomatous roots, such as are possessed by
BULBS 173
some varieties of iris; pips, such, for example, as the flowering crowns of the lily-of-the-val- ley and other fasciculated fleshy roots, such as those of the ranunculus or peony.
Very few present any difficult problems so far as cultivation is concerned and the com- moner sorts especially are easily raised. As a rule, all of them produce flowers of extraordi- nary beauty which not infrequently are deli- ciously fragrant. They comprise, moreover, endless variety in color, form, size and habit, and are adaptable on this account for many purposes. An advantage, often overlooked, is the fact that, following their season of bloom, their foliage matures and falls and no part of the plant shows above the ground to present an unsightly, faded appearance. When this tran- sition has occurred and the period of rest is en- tered they can in most instances be lifted and stored away for future use, and in the beds they occupied new plants may be set to con- tinue the succession of bloom throughout the season.
Although this class embraces almost num- berless varieties, nurserymen divide the group into two divisions—hardy varieties, which withstand freezing, and the tender varieties
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+
BULBS 175
which do not. The first is more popular al- though in the latter division there are a num- ber of plants whose beauty and ease of culture should commend them for more liberal use. To the first belong hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, erocuses and similar bulbs, and to the second belong crinums, the tuberous begonias, Coop- erias, montbretias, callas (Richardias), tube- roses, tigridias and other garden bulbs usually planted in the spring.
By judicious selection of varieties from both divisions it 1s possible to have bulbous- and tu- berous-rooted plants in bloom from frost to frost, and, if the city resident be the happy pos- sessor of a small greenhouse or conservatory, there need be no month in the year without its wealth of bloom from this order of plants alone. In March, in the northern states, and earlier in the more southern portion of the country, snowdrops, scillas, crocuses, winter aconites and chionodoxas usher in the first days of spring with a glory of bloom all the more beau- tiful because of its earliness. In April come the hyacinths, tulips, nareissi, in all their nu- merous varieties, followed later in the month and in May by the late tulips, the poets’ daf- fodils, and as the season progresses, by irises,
176 YARD AND GARDEN
peonies, lilies, gladiol, montbretias, tuberoses and other similar flowering bulbs.
It is probably with the hyacinths, tulips and narcissi that we are most familiar. These are used for many purposes, appear in many situa-
Dahlia Canna
tions and, wherever and whenever they are grown, add beauty, life and color to the early months of spring.
PREPARATION OF THE BED
In the cultivation of all varieties two things are of commanding importance: first the prep- aration of the ground, and second the season of planting. So far as the first is concerned,
BULBS LG
it may be taken as a general rule that bulbs prefer a light, well-drained, moderately rich soil. Prepare the bed in which they are to grow by digging it at least fourteen inches deep. If the soil encountered -is heavy and it appears that but little can be done with it by the addition of materials calculated to lighten it, throw it out and substitute good soil. In every case it is always best, if possible, to put a layer of small stones at the bottom for drainage. It 1s best in the long run to prepare the bulb bed carefully and, even where the soil is of proper texture, for best results it would be advisable for the cultivator to excavate it to the depth already mentioned, place the drainage on the bottom and upon this throw in the soil until it reaches a level upon which it is desired to set the bulbs. Prepare this surface, which may be anywhere from one to eight inches below the surrounding surface, by covering it with a thin layer of clean, sharp, grit sand. Place the bulbs upon this blanket and then add the re- maining earth until the surface of the bed stands slightly higher than the ground sur- rounding it. This elevation allows for settling.
While this is the best and surest process for planting the bulbs, where it is not convenient to
178 YARD AND GARDEN
follow it the beginner need not feel that fail- ure will be the result of his efforts. On the contrary, bulbs respond generously where even indifferent treatment is given them. It will not be indifferent treatment, however, to plant bulbs in carefully spaded ground by less arduous methods. You may, for instance, content your-
Flowers of Tuberous-Rooted Begonia
self with spading the ground to the required depth, pulverizmg the surface soil, and then, by means of a dibble, set out the bulbs. When the hole is made with this instrument it should be at a greater depth than is actually required, to permit of the addition of enough sand to form a cushion upon which the bulb may rest.
BULBS 179
After the bulb is inserted in the hole thus pre- pared, complete the process by filling the. hole with earth.
CULTIVATION
Most bulbs resent the presence of fresh ma- nure in the soil, and, though this does not mean that they do not require rich rooting material, they often disappoint the planter who has too generously applied his fertilizer. It has fre- _ quently been said that under no circumstances should manure be added to the soil of the bulb bed, but this can not be accepted as a guide without amendment. It would be better and more to the point to say that manure is not to be added to the soil in such manner that it will be brought into direct contact with the bulbs. By all means add the manure, but see to it that it is well rotted, is below the bulbs and is thor- oughly incorporated with the soil and that the | bulbs themselves are well surrounded by the cushion of sand already mentioned. In no in- stance, however, even where the sand is most generously employed, is it safe to plant bulbs in beds containing fresh manure.
In the planting of bulbs, consideration must be had for the kind of plant with which the gar- ~
180 YARD AND GARDEN
dener is dealing, for some require different soil and different situation or exposure, from others. The liliums, for example, would not prosper in a situation that would be regarded as ideal for daffodils and these, loving the sun, would find the ideal for liliums not so much to their liking. Then, too, where the area to be planted is small —as it is in most city yards—some attention should be given to the soil requirements of the different bulbous- and tuberous-rooted plants. If one kind demands more-food than another, it is not difficult to satisfy its appetite, and, on the other hand, if a bulb prefers a soil of less food value its demand may be satisfied by sup- plying fertilizer or manure in lighter quantities.
It is often desirable to plant the bulbs in bor- ders instead of in beds, or between shrubs or hardy perennials. In such situations, the only requirement in many cases will be the prepara- tion of the hole for the reception of the bulb by use of the dibble and, after adding the sand, the insertion of the bulbs. Usually the soil in borders where shrubs or perennials thrive 1s rich enough for bulbs but, should there be any doubt on this point, it 1s not by any means a matter of great difficulty to remove the top soil for a depth of six or seven inches and to incor-
Flower of the Canra
182 . YARD AND GARDEN
porate in the soil beneath enough decomposed - manure to insure healthy and vigorous growth. The daffodils, of all the different kinds of bulbs that are grown in our gardens or yards, prefer the richest soil.
SEASON FOR PLANTING BULBS
Nowadays many nurserymen contend that hardy bulbs may be planted as late in the fall as the ground can be worked. Their cata- logues, almost without exception, advise the purchaser that good. results are to be obtained from bulbs planted even as late as Christmas and that they will flower as satisfactorily as those planted earlier in the fall. This is not only misleading, but absolutely imeorrect. Bulbs planted late in the autumn are never as satisfactory as those planted earlier in the season. With daffodils, for instance, there is an absolute loss of strength and vigor when the planting is postponed later than October but when, on the other hand, the planting is done at an earlier date, even as early as the latter part of August, there is a material gain. Still, avoid too early planting, for cool weather is necessary to deter top growth, which is likely to make its appearance six weeks after the bulbs
BULBS 183
are set unless winter is near enough at hand to put a stop to such a display of ambition. In short, plant the bulbs seven or eight weeks be- fore frosty nights are likely to put in their ap- pearance.
Many planters advise setting the bulbs from two to four times their depth beneath the sur- face but this must never be taken as a hard and fast rule. Lihes, for instance, require a greater depth, and in all cases the deeper the bulbs are set the later the flowers in the spring and, pos- sibly, on this account the better the results.
WINTER PROTECTION OF BULBS
In the case of the spring-flowering varieties, winter protection should be afforded as soon as the ground freezes slightly in the autumn. Do not cover the beds with the idea in mind of pre- venting the light freezing, but rather with the idea of overcoming the heaving of the soil due to alternate freezing and thawing. Use leaves —preferably those from hard-wooded trees, for these mat down less than those from the softer-wooded varieties—or straw, and apply at least two or three inches of such litter. Hy- acinths should be more thoroughly protected than tulips and the latter should be provided
184 YARD AND GARDEN
with a four- or five-inch layer of leaves or litter.
One of the fine points in bulb culture is the removal of this winter mulch early enough in the spring to harden the young growths. If they are allowed to come up under the covering, penetrate through the mulch and become drawn and yellow they are in no condition to resist a suden freeze. It is best to remove the mulch by degrees beginning early in March by dis- posing of an inch of the litter and following this by the removal of subsequent layers until, by the time all danger of frost is past, no cover remains on the beds. Should the beginner be- lieve, however, that the weather justifies his removing the litter all at once he will show his wisdom by having it close at hand so that a light cover may be hastily applied should the weather suddenly threaten a damaging cold spell.
LIFTING AND DIVIDING
It is always a question to determine how long bulbs should be allowed to remain without lift- ing and dividing them. This, however, is usu- ally answered by attending circumstances. It may be desirable in some situations to set out bedding plants or to grow annuals or perennials in the beds which have been left bare by the
BULBS 185
blooming and passing of the flowers and foliage of the bulbs. In such cases allow the foliage to remain until it turns yellow and withers— which generally requires six weeks—and then earefully lift the bulbs, dry them and store them away for use the next fall. But, where the beds are permanent, or colonies are established
Torch Lily Canada Lily (Kniphofia aloides) (Lilium Canadense )
in herbaceous borders, the rule is to dig up only when the flowers show deterioration. If, after the first season or two, the blooms are neither so healthy nor so large as they were in the beginning, it is a fair indication that the eultural conditions are not congenial and the bulbs should be lifted as soon as the foliage dies
186 YARD AND GARDEN
and reset in soil better prepared and _ better adapted for their growth. If, however, the bulbs show no deterioration, let them remain undisturbed until, due to the natural processes of propagation, they become so crowded as to show by smaller flowers that they are too thickly set. Where the soil is not very rich, several seasons may pass before this sign of distress warns the gardener of the need of lifting and replanting. Daffodils, for example, may remain undisturbed, often for four or five years, and the peony, representative of the most perma- nent ‘‘bulbous’’ plant, may be allowed to re- main undisturbed in rich soil, provided it has room to extend its growth, for ten or twenty years. Still, it must be remembered that, in what is called high-grade bedding where, as a general rule, only tulips and hyacinths and oc- easionally daffodils are used, bulbs planted in the fall, after blooming in the following spring, should be dug up and planted elsewhere, usually in the borders, and the next autumn new bulbs should be set out.
HARDY BULBS
One of the most delightful ways of growing bulbs is the cultivation of the hardy species in
BULBS 187
the lawn. This method of planting is espe- clally suitable for suburban grounds where the area is more extensive than in cities. In cities oceasionally it is employed but seldom satis- factorily, for the bulbs, after flowering, are not allowed to complete their process of growth before it is considered necessary to mow the
Kramer’s Lily (Lilium Japonicum, var. roseum, known to the trade as Lilium Kkrameri)
lawn. Where their leaves are thus sacrificed the bulbs deteriorate and lose their value. Practically all the hardy bulbs do well in the grass if the place is properly prepared for them by removing a portion of the turf, forking up the earth beneath, planting them and then re-
188 YARD AND GARDEN
placing the turf. But, wherever this method is followed, it must be borne in mind that on no oceasion must the grass be cut until the plants ripen their leaves. This is always shown by the foliage turning yellow and_ withering. Neglect of this simple point has been the cause of disappointments in many instances where fall-planting by this method has been pursued on a large scale.
DECORATIVE ARRANGEMENT
When planting in the grass do not arrange the bulbs in regular lines or designs. Avoid the possibility of such arrangement resulting even accidentally by standing upright with the hands full of bulbs and allowing them to drop where they will and planting them where they fall. This method usually distributes the bulbs effectively and, at the same time, gives a center colony, or well-marked group, from which the bulbs appear to stray in all directions. The erocus, chionodoxas, snowdrop, Scilla amena, and bulbocodium, winter aconite, and snow flakes are suitable for planting in the grass. All of these will grow, increase, bloom and ripen the foliage before it is really necessary to use the lawn-mower, but not before the
BULBS 189
grass, especially in cities, will require cutting, if the appearances of the lawn are to be con- sidered.
While many persons seem to realize that pur- poseless planting of flowers, shrubs, vines or trees on the lawn is in poor taste, still there are not a few who seem to consider that an excep-
Single Dahlias
tion may be made of the bulbous plants. But as a matter of fact, the same rule holds with this class as with all others. The star-shaped, square-shaped, round-shaped bed of tulips or hyacinths set down without reason or sense in the center of a lawn invariably discloses poor judgment. Moreover, it is as expensive as it
190 YARD AND GARDEN
is gaudy and vulgar. And in the city another objection to this method of planting is that the beds, being on display, usually attract the small | boy or other marauder who, when he has helped himself to such bloom as he may desire, has ab- solutely ruined the appearance of the design and destroyed the only virtue possessed by the ~ geometric horror, its symmetry.
Bulbs should not be planted with less pur- pose than other plants. Use them in corners, in borders, in shrubberies and between her- baceous plants wherever space permits. As an example of one use to which bulbs may legiti- mately be put in this connection, there is, along the south side of one city house, a border be- tween the foundation and the walk three feet wide in which are planted plantain lilies, (Fun- kia subcordata, var. grandiflora), which, as they develop their foliage, conceal the foundation wall, and the well-known poet’s narcissus (JN. poeticus), and N. poeticus ornatus. The latter blooms earlier than the poet’s narcissus and is set out in front of its companions. In this border, some forty feet long, these daffodils are planted three or four inches apart and in four rows. They are through blooming before the funkia has developed its foliage, and while
Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum)
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they are in bloom they not only perfume the air, but serve, to some extent at least, as a screen.
Another effective composition is the use of tulips—especially the May-flowering varieties —with dwarf deciduous and evergreen shrubs. As the somber winter browns and the dull greens of the deciduous and evergreen plants give way before the magic touch of spring, they are suddenly converted into an ideal setting for an array of brilliantly colored flowers. Fur- thermore, blooms cut from such plantations of bulbs are not missed as they are when taken from formal beds where the removal of a single blossom mars the perfection of the whole de- sign.
Hardy bulbous plants may be used effectively in borders by themselves and occasionally bold clumps of the taller plants of the sort may not be ineffective when given a somewhat isolated position. In almost every instance, however, they show to best advantage when supplied with a background of shrubbery or of taller- growing plants.
In such situations, where the object desired is a brilliant mass of one color, which is all the more striking on account of the contrast with
BULBS 193
the surroundings, hemerocallis may be used or such lies as auratum, speciosum or tigrinum. The German and Japanese irises, tritomas, and montbretias also appear to advantage.
CHAPTER X
SOME POPULAR HARDY BULBS
Usually the hyacinth is given the place of first importance among hardy bulbs but this does not indicate by any means that the hya- cinth is deserving of an honor so great. As a matter of fact, this sort of classification de- pends largely upon individual taste. Tulips are given second place and narcissi third. But there are a number of gardeners who would re- verse this classification and give the narcissus the position of honor. And there is good reason for this. In the first place the varie- ties of this prime favorite are almost without number, they are easily cultivated and gener- ally certain in results. They may remain in the ground undisturbed for a longer period than hyacinths or tulips and under such treat- ment will prosper. They are especially adapted for planting in mixed borders between shrubbery, along walks and drives and will thrive in almost any soil or situation. They
194
POPULAR. HARDY BULBS 195
attain greater perfection, however, when the treatment accorded them is liberal. But, given a thoroughly drained soil of a moderately rich, loamy character in which there is a generous amount of sharp sand, they will succeed very well when no further cultivation is accorded
them. NARCISSI
Narcissi lend themselves well to naturaliz- ing. This method of planting, however, has little to recommend it to the owner of a small city yard, but where it is desired to have early flowers on the grounds of a large suburban home or country estate, this feature of the nar- cissi is well worth considering. Thousands of them may be- planted along the banks of a stream, in a bit of meadow or wood and in such situations will form a floral picture of surpas- sing loveliness. For this purpose the poet’s nareissus (N. poeticus), is probably the best, but nearly all daffodils may be naturalized to advantage.
While the colors of the narcissi are confined to a very narrow range of yellow and yellowish white, some are pure white and others, recently produced, have red trumpets. Still the coloring, though it might be considered by some monot-
196 YARD AND GARDEN
onous, is one of the chief charms of this group of hardy bulbs. The yellow, hke rays of sun- shine sifted through green foliage, is especially welcome in the early spring. For formal bed- ding, however, tulips and hyacinths should be relied upon and the daffodils omitted. The lat- ter may be planted any time between August
Erythronium Poet’s Narcissus
and November and the earlier they are set the better; they make roots earlier in the autumn than most of the other spring-blooming bulbs and on this account demand earlier planting. The poeticus types especially require early planting for they begin to throw out their new roots almost before the old have withered.
POPULAR HARDY BULBS HOT
These thrive in almost any good garden soil and only demand that the situation be well drained.
It is almost impossible to say which daffodils are the best for out of doors planting. But it is probably safe to designate the Golden Spur as one of the best yellow trumpets for the small garden. Other good trumpet sorts of an all- yellow color are the Emperor and the Glory of Leiden. Among the bi-colors, Victoria, Em- press and Horsefieldi are the best. In the all- white group, the best for general use are Mrs. Thompson, William Goldring and Madame de Graaff. It is not likely, however, that the Madame de Graaff will be very extensively planted for years to come. It is expensive and, though beautiful, for ordinary purposes, it is hardly worth the high price which it now com- mands when other varieties of trumpet nar- cissi are to be had from twenty to sixty cents a dozen.
The Horsefieldi, with large flowers of pure white perianth and rich yellow trumpet always strikingly beautiful, is difficult to obtain in good condition; frequently it decays in the packages and reliable nurserymen will import it only at the purchaser’s risk. The Empress, which is not
198 YARD AND GARDEN
only well adapted for planting in small yards, but is also happy when naturalized in orchards or meadows, is really an improved Horsefieldi and entirely free from disease; its flower pos- sesses a pure white perianth with yellow trumpet. The Emperor is one of the largest daffodils in cultivation and breeds a superb flower of a golden yellow color. These. two, both cheap, are among the best that can be planted. Other desirable varieties are the Bul- bocodium, or the hoop-petticoat narcissus, with rich golden-yellow flowers, the Maximus, Henry Irving and Major. .
Among the incomparabilis varieties, Sir Wat- kin, with very large petals of a rich sulphur- yellow color and large cup tinged with orange, is one of the best; the flowers are sometimes five inches in diameter and appear very early and are borne freely. Others that are good are Stella Superba with a white perianth and vellow cup, the Figaro with yellow cup and perianth colored orange and the Cynosure with large creamy-white petals and eup of the same color stained with orange-searlet. In the Barri eroup, Conspicuus, with large yellow flowers and bright red-edged’ crown, 1s undoubtedly the best and at the same time the cheapest. In the
199
POPULAR HARDY BULBS
SNSSIOIVN JO sarzol
if
vA jodunay,
260 YARD AND GARDEN
Leedsii, Mrs. Langtry, with flowers of a pale creamy yellow borne freely and excellent for cutting, is at the head. The two best varieties of the fragrant poet’s narcissus are the well- known poet’s narcissus itself, sometimes called pheasant’s-eye, and N. poeticus ornatus which blooms earlier. The most important of the double daffodils are the Van Sion and Sulphur Phoenix. HYACINTHS
Hyacinths are not difficult to raise when good bulbs are obtained. They should be planted at least four inches deep and on a cushion of clean sand. They are more susceptible to injury from frost than other bulbs planted in the fall and should on this account be more heavily cov- ered during the winter. Many planters pur- chase the bedding varieties, but if the largest spikes of bloom and most perfect flowers are desired it is better to obtain only ‘‘named’’ va- rieties which, though they are more expensive, produce a far more satisfactory display in the spring than the cheaper varieties. The planter must not expect from a hyacinth bulb the second season the same fine flowers it produced the first. The spikes are smaller and the bells are not so numerous. On this account many grow-
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 201
ers are disappointed and, after an experience of this sort, are inclined to consider hyacinths as difficult to grow, but it must be remembered that this is a peculiarity of the bulb itself and is not due to any lack of proper culture. The most satisfactory method of planting them is to remove five or six inches of the top soil
Hyacinths
in which they are to be set, carefully spade up the sub-soil to a depth of twelve inches or more and, making the surface of this fine, spread over it a half-inch layer of sand and on this set the bulbs. Hyacinths when thus planted are set at a uniform depth and con- sequently throw their bloom spikes at practi-
e
202 YARD AND GARDEN
cally the same time in the spring. This method of planting is also to be recommended because it enables the planter to place the different colors with precision—a point in display-bedding when either hyacinths or tulips are employed that is of considerable importance. It is never advisable to set the bulbs closer than six inches.
To obtain the shades of color which may be desired in formal beds the following varie- ties are to be recommended: Norma, pink; Robert Steiger, deep crimson; Madame Van- derhoop, pure white; Leonidas, lhght blue; Baron van Thuyll, dark blue, and Ida, citron yellow. All these are single hyacinths.. The double varieties of hyacinths, although the flowers last longer than the single varieties, have a heavy appearance and lack the dis- tinctive form of the single type.
While occasionally the practice 1s made of setting hyacinths and tulips in. the same bed it is seldom if ever advisable. The colors are not likely to prove pleasing as the various shades of the two classes usually clash harshly. But tulips by themselves are always effective especially when the best or named varieties are planted. Superior results can
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 203
not be expected from inferior bulbs whether they are of tulips, hyacinths, narcissi or any of the other spring-blooming bulbs.
TULIPS
There is no reason why tulips should not be even more liberally planted than they are, for, considering the slight cost of good bulbs
{
May-flowering Tulips
oe
Parrot Tulips
and the little trouble involved in their culti- vation, the effects produced are amazingly striking. They should be planted preferably the last wveek in October or the first week in November and it is always best to have the ground in good condition a fortnight in ad-
204 YARD AND GARDEN
vance of the planting. While it is sometimes thought that tulips may be planted as late as December, it is never advisable, except in the South, to postpone to so late a date the work of setting out the bulbs; they require time to develop their roots before winter sets in and puts a stop to the process. In preparing the bed, elevate it slightly and slope it from the cen- ter toward the edges so that good drainage will be insured. Tulips, like hyacinths, should be planted on a cushion of sand and should be set about five inches apart and covered with not less than four inches of good soil. After the beds are made, firm the earth to prevent its heaving by the action of the frost. When a shght freezing has hardened the surface soil to a depth of an inch or two, cover the beds with leaves or litter.
When tulip bulbs are planted in the borders —where they always appear to great ad- vantage—they may be left in the ground un- disturbed for several seasons, but when they are planted in beds which, after the tulips have bloomed, are to receive summer-flower- ing plants, the bulbs should be removed, dried, and stored away to be planted the following autumn. They should not be lifted, however,
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 205
until the leaves have turned yellow and thus indicate that the bulb has completed its sea- son’s work in preparation for next year’s flower. In lifting the bulbs it will be found that sets have been formed around the base; if it is desired, these may be planted sep- arately in a sandy loam where, in the course of two or three years, they will develop into bulbs of a flowering’ size.
Tulips are usually listed by dealers under the heads of early single tulips, early double tulips, late double tulips, parrot tulips, late garden or May-flowering tulips and Darwins. The best early singles for outdoor planting are the fol- lowing: Artus, dark searlet; Belle Alliance, bright scarlet; Brutus, scarlet ; Rose Gris-de-lin, the best bright pink; Chrysolora, the best early yellow; Canary Bird, yellow; Pottebakker, pure yellow; Pottebakker White, pure white; La Reine, rosy white. Of the double-flowerine tulips, none of which is equal to the single but all of which are valued because the blooms are more lasting, the best are, La Candeur, pure white; Couronne d’Or, yellow; Duke of York, carmine with white edge; Rex Rubrorun, bright scarlet; Couronne des Roses, deep pink. These are all early varieties of the double class;
206 YARD AND GARDEN
of the late-blooming double tulips, which usually come into bloom in May, the best are Yellow Rose, golden-yellow; Blue Flag, viclet-blue; - Peony Gold, red and yellow; Marriage de ma Fille, white, striped with carmine.
The parrot tulips form an odd and interest- ing section, but the flowers lack the neat pre-
Gladiolus Montbretia
cision of outline which seems to be the tulip’s chief characteristic, the petals being irregu- larly cut and fringed with a variety of colors. All the parrots are exceedingly effective and always striking when planted in borders where they thrive if left undisturbed. The best va- rieties of these are Admiral of Constantinople,
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 207
orange-red and searlet; Cramoisie Brilliant, scarlet; Lutea Major, golden yellow; Markgraaf van Baden, golden yellow inside, outside feathered scarlet, purple and green. All bloom in’ May and prefer a light sandy soil and a sunny location.
In the judgment of many, the best tulip for the average city yard is the May-flowering or cottage garden tulip. Flowers of this group come into bloom from two to four weeks later than the earlier varieties and usually at a time when the flowers are more appreciated. The blooms are superior as cut flowers and last a week or more in water. All varieties are of a free and graceful habit, attaining a height of from eighteen to twenty-four inches and bearing their exquisitely colored flowers on long, strong stems. These tulips can be planted to great advantage in both beds and borders and under either method of cultiva- tion generally produce better results than the early type. Among the best of the section are: Bouton d’Or, deep golden yellow; Gesneriana spathulata, dazzling scarlet; La Nigrette, almost black in color; Maiden Blush or Picotee, a beautiful blush white; Bridesmaid, cherry rose, pinkish white stripes; La Candeur,
208 © YARD AND\GARDEN
pure white; Firefly, brilliant orange, and Re- troflexa, a bright yellow tulip with recurved petals.
Late-flowering tulips are again divided and flowers of the sub-group are known as Show or Florists’ tulips. In this division are the bi- zarres, byblamens, and roses. The bizarre has a yellow ground with red, brown, scarlet or crimson shades. The byblemen has a white ground upon which markings of black, brown, lilac, ete., show. The rose possesses a white ground upon which bright markings of pink, searlet and crimson show. Breeder or ‘‘moth- er’’ tulips, or selfs, bear flowers without markings, but with yellow bases, the upper por- tion of the petals being self-colored white, rose, scarlet, red, brown or purple. The Darwins belong to the self-colored group and are im- proved ‘‘mother’’ tulips, as a matter of fact, surpassing in color and brillianey all other tulips. The best of these—and no garden can -have too many—are Ouida, carmine-red; Nau- tica, purplish-rose; Kate Greenaway, white and hilae-rose; Faust, purple-black, and Buffon, rosy-lilae. These ‘‘show’’ tulips are the flowers which years ago caused the famous tulip ‘‘mania’’ in Europe. At that time tulips sold
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 209
as high as one thousand dollars each, and entire communities became involved in the excited speculation—usually to financial disaster,
There are still other varieties of tulips which the amateur will find both interesting and val- uable. Among these may be mentioned Greig, one of the best, orange-searlet, yellow and black center; Carinata rubra, crimson and green; Clusiana, white, with broad red stripe; Sylvestris, or Florentina odorata, fragrant, yellow; and Persica, dwarf, brown.
OTHER SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS
There are other bulbs for fall planting, some of which have already been mentioned, that will prove hardy all over the country. Many of them are especially valuable because of the early bloom they afford in the first days of spring. In fact, there are about a dozen that can generally be relied on for March flowers in the north. Their delicate grace and unconquerable hardiness are their chief charms; Maeterlineck has said of them that they are ‘‘frail and chilly but bright as a bold idea.’’ As a rule they have sacrificed both size and fragrance in order to press forward extraor- dinarily early in the season. Of all of them
210 YARD AND GARDEN
snowdrops are the earliest. They appear in Mareh and seem eminently capable of taking good eare of themselves. They require little or no attention at all and possess in addition the extraordinary virtue of being able to adapt themselves to situations where other bulbs could not be expected to prosper. The snowdrop, for instance, will do exceptionally well, compared, of course, to other flowers, on the north side of a house, or in a narrow and poorly lighted passageway where one would expect that ferns alone would thrive. Galanthus Elwesii is the giant of the genus and its large size of flower is not attained by any sacrifice of refinement. It is not so early, however, as the little snow- drop, following it some two weeks. ~ Oceasionally the spring snowflake (Leucozum vernum) is mistaken for the snowdrop. It possesses a white flower and blooms in March. There is also an autumn snowflake, but it is not reliably hardy; and there is a summer flower of the same sort blooming about the first part.of May. |
Scilla Sibirica is another excellent flower appearing early in spring. Its blooms, while small and borne only one to three on a stem, are of a rich blue color especially desirable at
POPULAR HARDY BULBS
Tiger Lily (Lilium tigrinum)
Pal
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this season of the year. Other desirable bulbs are Chionodoxa grandiflora or C. gigantea, with single blooms an inch and a half across and of a slaty blue color; Chionodoxa Lucilie, with flowers somewhat smaller but of sky blue, ex- cept the lower part of the petals which is white, and Chionodoxa Sardensis, with flowers still smaller but appearing six or seven on a stalk, and of a darker blue.
The crocuses are other March bloomers and some of them frequently will open even earlier, according to the weather. Almost all of the named varieties are well worth plant- ing, and if the prices charged for these, usually not more than seventy-five cents a hundred, appear to be somewhat high, the crocus can be had in separate colors—purple, yellow, blue and striped—for prices a third cheaper. There is no reason why everybody, even if only a small strip of ground is available, should not plant generously of them. Once set out they are no further trouble and bloom year after year.
Crocuses, as well as the other early spring bulbs, should be set from one to two inches below the surface of the ground. When planted in the grass they are usually estab-
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 213
lished by lifting a portion of the sod and set- ting the bulbs under this, then replacing the turf. If, however, you prefer them for bed display, provide a deep rich sandy loam. In this they should be set three inches apart and allowed to remain until, through natural in- crease, they become so crowded as to show signs of deterioration. This is not likely to occur for four or five years. Avoid planting crocuses too deep, two inches being the best depth as a rule—when they are set deeper, they often fail to bloom.
Another hardy flower of March is the winter aconite (Hranthis hyemalis). Its flowers are yellow and larger than the crocuses and some- times, if the weather is extraordinarily open, it will come into flower as early as the first of February. The winter aconite belongs to the buttercup family and has from five to eight golden sepals. It grows about six inches high. While it is a flower frequently mentioned by writers on English gardens it is seldom seen in America, probably because it is not as well adapted to our climate as to that of its Kuropean home. But where it is planted in partial shade it stands a fair chance of suc- ceeding.
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The following planting table will be a safe guide for the setting of these smaller bulbs. All of them should be planted in the fall as soon as they can be obtained from the dealers.
Depth Distance apart (Inches ) ( Inches ) Snowdrop (Galanthus) 2 2 Glory-of-the-Snow (Chiono- doxa) 2, 3 Squills (Scillas) 3 4 Winter aconite (Hranthis) 1 4 Crocuses 2 5 Spring snowflake (Leuwcojum vernum ) 2 4
LILIES
No plea should be required to induce a liberal planting of lilies. Their beauty and fragrance recommend them especially for use on small city lots where special attention may be given them, and their requirements, so far as soil and situation are concerned, easily satisfied. It is due, possibly, to the mistaken idea that they are difficult to cultivate that more of them are not planted. But as a matter of fact, the lily really makes no ex- traordinary demand. Of all the numerous varieties many will be found to flower well in ordinary garden soil and if planted in a sheltered spot, partially shaded and at a
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 219
proper depth, they will hardly fail to prosper. Fully four-fifths of the important species of liies are imported from Japan or the Far East and usually reach the United States about the first of November. In the northern states this is a little late for planting, for October is unquestionably the ideal month for setting out lles. They succeed, however, when planted later and it is always better to plant the bulbs in November than in the spring, for the lily bulb is not safely stored and, even when given the best of care, loses much of its vitality and sometimes throws no bloom for a season.
Among the best varieties to plant are the longiflorum, whose funnel-shaped blooms are the longest of any hardy lly; Japonicum, with colors varying from a blush to a deep reddish pink; Brownu, with blossoms that are pure white inside but marked with a beautiful pur- plish brown on the outer part of the petal; Batmannie, bright orange; Henryi, dark red- dish yellow, and auratum, the most gorgeous of lies. The bulbs of the last, however, must be renewed every two to three years in this country. Its flowers are exquisitely beautiful, bearing on white petals gold, red and yellow
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Thunbergian Lily (Lilium elegans, known to the trade as L. umbellatum, L. Thunbergianum, etc.) 2
POPULAR HARDY BULBS AT
bands. The lily that every one knows and one which, unlike the auratuwm, persists for gener- ations 1s Lilium tigrinum (tiger-lily). Though its flowers are large, the bulbs are so cheap and so easily grown that it is not accorded the merit it deserves. It bears red flowers with purplish spots. The list might be extended almost indefinitely, but the following should certainly receive consideration: superbum, Wallacei, candidum, croceum, wmbellatum, speciosum, and Canadense.
An eminent authority on lilies has made the following list of soils most suitable for their cultivation:
First, any good garden soil of a fair depth well dug before planting is suitable for such kinds as Brown, candidum, Chalcedonicum, croceum, excelsum, Hansom, Henryi, Mar- tagon (purple), TLhunbergianum, tigrinum and umbellatum.
Secondly, lihes that prefer a strong’ soil, such as a good, rich, friable loam not too heavy: auratum, Batmanme, Martagon, album, speci- osum and Washingtonianum.
Thirdly, those that require peat and mois- ture: Canadense, pardalinum, Philadelphicum and superbum.
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It might be added, too, that the above list represents those lhes which can be grown with the least trouble. Those of the first list will succeed in any ordinary border; those in the second list require a certain amount of partial shade and coolness at the root and are best planted in shrubbery beds. And those in the third group comprise the lilies that re- quire a cool shady spot where they are not exposed to the direct rays of the sun.
The general rule when planting lily bulbs is that they should be put in the soil about three times their depth, but this is not always a safe guide, for some lilies possessing small bulbs require deeper planting than this ealls for. Furthermore, whenever bulbs are placed among shrubs they should be planted two or three inches deeper than they would be set in other situations. The distance between the bulbs should be from twelve to eighteen inches.
CHAPTER XI
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS
The Iris has been called ‘‘the poor man’s orchid,’’ and a fitting name it is, for in bloom, in richness of coloring, in beauty and in deli- cacy it is of the ‘‘blue-blooded’’ nobility of the flower family, while, in point of culture, in its general adaptability to various con- ditions and various situations, it is as entirely democratic. Cultivate it, nurse it, coddle it, and it will respond eagerly and gladly to every ef- fort, but neglect it, ignore it, trample on it and despise it, and, once planted, it will remain with you, bloom for you, and, if you have the least respect for floral beauty, shame you with its blossoms. It requires little and gives much, and, asking no more than it has received, pre- pares itself at the same time to give you more another season.
VARIETIES OF IRIS
This, of course, refers to the common iris of our gardens, a variety with which all planters 219
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have been familiar for years, even for gener- ations. But there are other varieties with which we are not so familiar, but which are no more exacting or fastidious in their de- mands or their tastes. Then there are still others, veritable aristocrats in all their re- quirements as well as in the beauty of their bloom. These—the Onecocyclus group, with flowers delicately veined and reticulated, gen- erally with a darker color on a lght back- ground, natives of Persia, Armenia and Afghanistan—require special culture and _ at- tention, and are as difficult to grow as the others are easy. For the amateur they can not be recommended, though, now and then, one finds a gardener who is interested enough in the irises to attempt the cultivation of this difficult class. A representative of it is the mourning iris, or Iris Susiana, frequently of- fered in the American catalogues, and usually with the misleading announcement that it is easily grown.
It is not easily grown; indeed, the amateur seldom succeeds with it. Yet it is the easiest of the Oncocyeclus group to grow. It, like other varieties of the same class, requires hard sun-baking after its short blooming sea-
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Japanese Iris (Iris levigata, known to the trade as J. Kempferi)
222 YARD AND GARDEN
son, and it can not be considered hardy. However, when brought into bloom, its large gray flowers closely veined with black, odd as well as beautiful, amply reward the culti- vator for his trouble. Usually it 1s best to lift the plant in the fall and store it through the winter, as dahlias or cannas are stored. Still, in some few instances, it can be brought to bloom without this annual disturbance by plentifully covering it in winter, and in spring removing the litter gradually as the season ad- vances. Success with it is ample reward, and, as it ean be had for fifteen cents, failure would not be altogether a financial disaster.
But when the iris offers so many varieties, all of the easiest cultivation, why regret that the Onecoeyclus group brings confusion to our efforts? Consider a moment the possibilities the iris presents. Usually, when we mention the name, we picture in our minds only the ‘‘German’’ iris; it 1s SO common in our gar- dens, and it was so common in the gardens of our grandfathers and of their fathers, that we have lost sight of its value and its beauty, and, at the same time, have come to consider it as alone representative of the family. Nothing could be more absurd. One might, if one
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS — 223
chose, plant a garden, large or small, with irises and nothing else, and have for his pains a wonderful procession of wonderful flowers from early spring to late summer, and then, if he cared to fill in the winter months, con- tinue the succession indoors in window garden or conservatory. In fact, it is possible, with but the slightest effort and with but ordinary conditions—such as a sunny window—to have iris blooms every month in the year.
The Iris, or, as it is popularly known, the fleur-de-lis or rainbow flower, has more than one hundred and seventy species, of which as many as one hundred have been cultivated by American floriculturists. In England, where the flower is more appreciated, more than one hundred and fifty species are grown by iris fanciers. Of the number grown in America, seventy-five might safely be attempted by the skilled amateur, and this number itself is but a small fraction of the number of varieties which have been produced by cross-fertiliza- tion and selection to contribute generously to garden ornamentation.
When consideration is had of the possibili- ties these figures suggest, surely we will no longer look upon the ‘‘German”’ varieties as the
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limit of iris’. variations: In faet,, the quec- tion, so far as planting is concerned, becomes one of selection—of selection for ornamental and color effect, for best varieties and those easiest grown, and for season of bloom, that a succession may be maintained. In this con- nection it is well to know that the irises which are grown and offered for sale by nurserymen are divided into two divisions: those of bul- bous character and those with surface rhi- zomes—of which the common ‘‘German”’ is a type—and those with exceedingly narrow, in- conspicuous, subterraneous rhizomes, with roots more conspicuous.
In the bulbous division the irises best known are those popularly called Spanish and Eng- lish. The former (Iris Xiphium) and the latter (Iris xiphioides) deserve to be more widely planted than they are. They are of easy cul- ture, thriving best in some sheltered corner of the garden, and preferring a loose, friable soil. Their flowers are excellent to cut for vase or table decoration, and in form, size and color are more dainty than the common variety. The Spanish group blooms first—the latter part of June—and its flowers are followed by those of the English iris. For best effects the bulbs
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS )—= 229
Spanish Ivis (Iris Xiphium)
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of both should be planted hberally. At least twenty-five should be set in a group; more would be better. The bulbs are inexpensive, costing from seventy-five cents to one dollar a hundred, the English being the more expensive of the two, and should be planted in the au- tumn three or four inches deep and five or six inches apart. They are entirely hardy, but: should be planted early in order to enable them to make some growth in the fall before hard frost comes; and they will be all the better for a shght winter covering.
There are a few other species of the tall- erowing bulbous irises—though none grows higher than eighteen inches—which could be planted to advantage. One, for instance, is Tris juncea and another is the rare I. Bowssiert, but these are seldom to be had from American nurserymen, except on special order. Still, even when imported, their cost 1s compara- tively small. The first, however, is not hardy in the north, and the other requires heavy win- ter protection. A third variety which can be obtained in this country is Iris reticulata; it is a native of Palestine, and is one of the prettiest and sweetest of spring flowers, com- ing into bloom with the crocus. It is absolutely
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS — 227
hardy, and will thrive in almost any situation, throwing flowers gorgeous in coloring, with brilhant shades of purple and gold and a vio- let fragrance. Iris Bakeriana, an Armenian variety, 1s even earlier, but less showy. Their cultivation is identical with that of the Span- ish and KEnglish varieties.
Of the rhizomatous division, the most diffi- cult to grow is the Oncocyelus class, to which reference has already been made. But, again, why lament the fact that these plants, even granting that they are splendid, resist our best efforts? Have we not the Japanese as well as the German irises? And, have you ever seen a hundred plants of the Japanese in bloom? It is a sight worth traveling far to see. In Japan they are grown by the million, and dur- ing their season of bloom the little empire is a paradise of color—marvelous and exquisite color. The Japanese have been cultivating the iris for generations, and they have brought to bear upon its flowers all the wonderful skill for which they are noted. Travelers have _ re- marked the iris gardens ever since the tourists began to journey to Japan, but, strange to say, these irises, known as IJ. levigata, or I. Kemp- feri, as they are called by the trade, as easily
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erown as a potato, perfectly hardy, demanding but little attention, were until recent years but little known in America. Yet importations were made among the first products brought from the land of the Mikado. We have been — dilatory in planting them, but now, however, they are planted by the thousand every season - in America, and each season the demand in- creases.
We are always advised that they are ‘‘excel- lent for naturalizing in the water garden,’’ and that here they thrive best and their flowers attain greatest size. This is true, but not ex- clusively true. We do not need a water gar- den to have Japanese irises; we do not need even a ‘‘swampy’’ situation. Hundreds of them have been grown without either. Some employ a sunken bed. To prepare this, dig a trench two feet wide for a single row, or wider, according to the width of the bed projected. Remove all the dirt to a depth of two feet. The soil in the bottom of the trench is then loosened to a further depth of twelve inches, well-rotted manure is liberally spaded in, and the earth first removed from the trench, mixed with manure, is returned until the surface of the bed thus prepared stands some three or
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS — 229
four inches below the surrounding surface of the garden or lawn. Usually it is best to board in this sort of a bed, to prevent the edges from being broken or marred. Then the plants are set out, two feet apart, and in winter a cover- ing of leaves, straw or other litter, to which is added a generous amount of old manure, is applied. In the spring this is removed, and when the leaf growth has attained a height of ten or twelve inches, water liberally, letting the stream from a hose flow over the sunken bed when possible.
This method of planting and cultivation has never failed to give the maximum of bloom and a bloom of maximum size. The flowers some- times measure twelve inches in diameter. The colors range from silvery white through pale blue, hlac, plum and purple, and the flowers are marked with exquisite veinings and star- hke centers of contrasting shades, frequently of gold. They bloom luxuriantly in late June and early July.
But what of the ‘‘German irises’’? They are truly the democrats of our gardens, yet, as al- ready said, they are of the nobility of the flower kingdom. Their flowers are not so fine, perhaps, as those of their Japanese cousins,
*
230 YARD AND GARDEN
but they are different in form rather than dif- ferent in value. They have shorter, broader leaves than the Jris levigata, and flowers whose petals do not le flat. They have three strongly recurved and handsomely marked petals or ‘‘falls’’ and three upright standards.
White Siberian Iris German Iris (Iris Sibirica, var. alba) (Iris Germanica)
Their colorings include white, yellow, lilac and purple, and some curious browns, rich maroons and dark yellows. No plants are of easier ecul- ture; unlike the Japanese they prefer a dry soil, but are gross feeders, spreading rapidly, and thriving best in a sunny situation. How- ever, they insist upon none of these conditions,
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS © 231
and are seen growing where all are lacking. But feed them once a year, and, just as spring- flowering bulbs are passing with their pageant of bloom, these German irises will reward the planter with a lavish display of beautiful flow- ers.
And still the list is not ended. There are other varieties, all hardy, all easy of cultiva- tion, making no more demands as far as treat- ment is concerned than their accommodating German relatives, blooming at different sea- sons, and ranging in height from a few inches to three feet. Indeed, this range of height of- fered by the iris family is almost as important to the iris fancier as the range of color and the varying seasons of bloom, for, through the ad- vantages this affords, effective groupings can be arranged, the dwarf sorts in front and the taller-growing varieties in the rear.
There are a number of the dwarf varieties from which the amateur may select to suit himself. These have been, for some unknown reason, much neglected, but fortunately, in recent years their value has been more ap- preciated, and the great merit they possess has brought them into prominence. There is, for instance, the little Jris pumila, which is, per-
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haps, better known than the other species, and which grows nine inches high and bears in April showy flowers of deep purple. It 1s, moreover, a profuse bloomer, and as an edging plant possesses extraordinary value. Its green leaves appear in March, and it is always in trim, neat form, even throughout the hot days of midsummer. It can be had in various colors, ranging from pearly white through clear blues to the deeper-colored typical tint. Iris verna is another dwarf species, quite pro- lific in bloom, producing its purple flowers also in April. Another gem among dwarf irises 1s Iris cristata. It grows only six inches high, has foliage of a hght green color, forming a carpet of verdure, and bears freely pale lilac flowers beautifully blotched with golden yel- low. Iris Cham@iris is a variety sometimes mis- taken for J. pumila, but its yellow flowers, with falls veined with purple, disclose its identity. It also is of value, and of value, too, is the dwarf form, Iris flavissima, or I. Bloudovu, as it is sometimes catalogued, which bears showy flowers of a pure yellow color.
Taller-growing species which are of easy cul- ture and which are effective in the garden wherever planted are also numerous. Promi-
TRISES AND TENDER BULBS — 233
nent among those which are to be recom- mended for the average amateur is IJris Florentina, the orris-root of commerce, de- servedly popular, and for over one hundred years a familiar flower in the old-fashioned New England gardens. It is free-blooming, producing flowers of pearly whiteness, deli- ciously fragrant, delicate and effective. Jris pallida, whose blood flows through the veins of all the better hybrid German irises, is a plant with broad leaves and sword-like foliage which often attains a height of two and a half feet, the blades measuring an inch and a half across. It bears its flowers on long stems, raising them high above the fohage, and the result is most effective. Then there is Iris Pseudacorus, Jacob’s sword, as it is sometimes called, which possesses ample green foliage and forms quickly a vigorous clump. It bears flowers of a rich golden yellow color, and produces them in pro- fusion.
_ The much-admired Siberian iris (J. Sibirica), has a number of forms of which the most com- mon type is a tall-growing variety, attaining a height of two and a half or three feet, and bear- ing many flower stems, which are topped with blooms of a dark blue color marked with white
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pencilings. The best sorts are the pure white, growing about two feet high, and the variety orientalis, twenty inches high, the latter bear- ing in profusion rich blue flowers of charming form. It has the valuable quality of reproduc- ing itself rapidly, and from a few plants
Siberian Iris English Iris (Iris Sibirica) (Iris xiphioides )
enough can be obtained in two or three seasons to plant a considerable area.
All of the irises with surface rhizomes thrive in ordinary garden soils, requiring division and replanting as their clumps increase in size. This should be done as soon as the foliage shows signs of ripening, and should be accom-
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS — 235
plished early enough in the autumn to permit the newly planted roots to become thoroughly established before winter sets in. The rhi- zomes should never be planted deeper than an inch below the surface, unless the situation is unusually dry. As the clumps increase in S1Ze, divide them by cutting the rhizomes sharply with a spade or similar implement, transplant- ing the portion detached and allowing the par- ent plant to remain in its position undisturbed.
TENDER BULBS
There is another class of bulbous, tuberous- rooted plants which is worth considering and which, like those requiring planting in the fall, are easily grown. These are the bulbs which bloom in summer and autumn and are planted in spring. They are known as tender bulbs because they will not endure the winters, but, after blooming and ripening, are dug up and stored away to be replanted the following spring. Among the most important species of this class of bulbs are the agapanthus, al- stremeria, tuberous begonia, bessera, canna, caladium, cooperia, crinum, dahlia, gladiolus, madeira vine, montbretia, oxalis, ealla, tigri- dia, tuberose, and zephyranthes.
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No flower is easier of culture or less doubt- ful so far as success is concerned than the dah- ha. We have the single and pompon, the show, the quilled and fancy, the decorative and the cactus varieties. The hundreds of shades and colors and the beautiful forms as well as the grace of the plant and its value for cutting give this flower an exalted position which it well deserves. The roots should not be planted in the northern states before the middle of May and, when the growth appears above the surface six inches or so, it is generally well to pinch the tops, a process which produces a bushy, compact, dwarf growth.
Following the dahlia in popularity and praise are the gladioli. They may be planted either in separate beds or among perennials where they will add gay colors to borders which might otherwise be bare. Gladioli should be planted as early in the season as the ground can be worked and every two weeks thereafter until July first for a succession of bloom. They prefer a sunny situation, a rich soil and plenty of moisture and should be planted six inches deep, seven or eight inches apart.
The tuberous-rooted begonia is valuable be-
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS ~— 237
cause it will flower in shady situations. In a spot where other flowers have persistently re- fused to grow, the tuberous-rooted begonia will frequently be found at its best. They are best started in the house during March and April in pots and then planted out of doors the latter part of May. If started early enough indoors, they will be in bloom by the middle of June and will continue to flower until frost. They thrive best in a rich, loose, moisture-re- taining soil and prefer a considerable quantity of leaf-mold to which has been added a lib- eral amount of sharp sand. The bulbs should be planted three inches deep and ten or twelve inches apart.
Montbretias are desirable when planted in groups of fifty or a hundred bulbs. The bulbs are planted in the spring about four inches deep and will prove hardy when afforded a winter protection of litter four. or five inches deep.
The summer hyacinth, (Hyacinthus can- dicans), bears large, white, bell-shaped flowers on stout stalks two or three feet high. For best effects this must be planted in clumps and, like the Montbretia, proves hardy when given | protection during the winter. ‘T'uberoses and
238 YARD AND GARDEN
ealadiums are well-known popular bulbs which “are extensively planted.
BULBOUS VINES
Among the summer-flowering bulbous- and tuberous-rooted plants are several vines which prove exceedingly valuable. Most city yards possess some objectionable spot or object which it is desirable to conceal from sight; this may be accomplished by the use of annual or perennial vines. But annuals, while they are quick growing, are objectionable owing to the fact that they must be replanted each year; perennials, on the other hand, frequently re- quire from two to three seasons to establish themselves. Between these two come the bul- bous vines. They are quick growing and, when once planted, require no further attention, thus combining the advantages of both annual and perennial. Moreover, they are inexpen- sive. Foremost among these is the Madeira vine which attains a considerable height in a very short space of time. The foliage is dense and the flower small and white. The Cinnamon vine, with glossy, green, heart-shaped leaves and very fragrant racemes of white flowers, grows to a greater height and blooms in Au-
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS — 239
gust. Another fine climbing plant is the Kudzu vine, which possesses magnificent foliage, deep and dense, and makes a wonderfully rapid growth the first season. It comes from Japan and is very extensively planted. A native vine is Aptos tuberosa which seems to be more ap- preciated in England than at home; its spe- cial features are its adaptability to situations in absolute shade and its beautiful flowers of pleasing fragrance. It grows rapidly and blooms in July.
CHAPTER XII
SHRUBS
In planting as it is usually done on the city or town lot of average size, in most cases a shrub would be preferable to the tree which is ordinarily set out. Too often trees are crowded into situations far too small for them, which is neither good for the tree nor of value to the site. Due allowance is seldom made for the tree’s growth and spread and, planted in close proximity to some building on one side and subject to exposure on another, a straggling, unbalanced specimen is produced that lacks beauty, strength and vigor. This does not mean, of course, that trees have no place in the small yard; when properly selected and properly located, they add immeasurably to the appearance of the home. But, before a tree is set out, careful thought should be given to its fitness for the place where it is proposed to establish it.
240
(2027n0H UDA DaLdY) YAOI [Vplig
241
SHRUBS
242 YARD AND GARDEN
DISADVANTAGES OF TREE-PLANTING
The tree should be considered as a mature plant. It must not be forgotten, that, as the years go by, the tree will continue to grow. It will not long remain the small specimen re- ceived from the nursery which, when first planted, may appear to be entirely suitable for the location selected. Each year will add to its height and increase the spread of its branches, so that, in ten years, perhaps, it may have at- tained a size that unfits it for the effect de- sired. Even then it may be only in its infancy, requiring, for its fullest development, twenty- five or fifty years more.
This fact suggests the permanency of the tree and is converted at once by the incautious planter into a recommendation which more than offsets any objection which may be found against its use. However, a second thought may lead to the conclusion that this is not the advantage it may at first sight appear to be. If one is planting for future effect, if one is planting the home grounds for the enjoyment of one’s children and one’s children’s children, well and good, the tree’s the thing. Its leafy branches will cast grateful shade for them and
SHRUBS 243
the massive trunks will stand as monuments to the forethought of the ancestor who felt so tender an interest in the comfort of his de- scendants. But if one is planting for oneself, for to-day, for this generation, for immediate effect, the tree is not the thing. The shrub ~must displace it.
We have come to a fuller realization of this in the last few years than ever before. And; as we have gained in this direction, we have come to understand and to appreciate the value and the uses of trees. We no longer plant them in such proximity to our residences that both tree and house suffer as a consequence, and we no longer fancy that a tree is as essen- tial to a lot as a roof to the house. Planting experts are now practically unanimous in de- elaring that a tree which attains average height and spread should not be planted within twenty feet of the house. The reason for this dictum is not difficult to discover. Trees set at closer distance can not attain the full de- velopment they require as they grow older and, so far as the residence is concerned, if planted nearer than the twenty feet limit, too much shade is likely to result, with dampness and ill health as the immediate consequence.
244 YARD AND GARDEN
Moreover, where trees overspread the lawn, grass of that ‘‘velvety’’ texture so desirable is almost impossible. Then, too, not only is a free circulation of air shut off from the resi- dence and the sunlight excluded, but the planter who has thus elected to proceed will find that he has made flower-growing exceed-
Hydrangea Laden with Flowers
ingly difficult. In a word, the owner of the small city lot sacrifices too much in planting trees for what he gains. If his yard is large enough, trees have a place in the planting scheme. But if the yard is small, confine tree- planting to the park bordering the street or
SHRUBS 240
highway and make use of shrubs for lawn planting.
EFFECTIVENESS OF SHRUBS
Too often the advantages of shrubs are over- looked or ignored. Tall-growing and dwarf, deciduous and evergreen, there are few places where they will not succeed and, thriving, add materially to the beauty of the home. They have in the first place two distinct values: they are serviceable when employed as individual speci- mens, planted in isolated situations for formal effect, and valuable when grown in masses forming what are commonly termed shrubber- ies. Both methods of planting have their par- ticular uses and advantages but, although the inclination as a rule is in the direction of indi- vidual or specimen planting rather than mass planting, the latter and not the former is to be recommended. The amateur, however, is far more likely to adopt the course proscribed than that which is advised, for it appears to him that shrubs seattered about the lawn add more to the yard’s general appearance than when they are grouped. But, as a matter of fact, mass planting and not specimen planting
246 YARD AND GARDEN
contributes more toward harmonious and sat- isfactory effect. Frequently a yard presents a ‘‘patchy”’ ap- pearance for which the planter is unable to account. In such instances, were it possible to shift specimen shrubs temporarily from their isolated positions to shrubbery groups and observe the increased effectiveness result- ing from the change, the perplexed gardener would at once detect the cause of the trouble. and, it is safe to conclude, would make the tem- porary arrangement permanent. Shrubs, or plants of any sort, for that matter, scattered indiscriminately and without apparent purpose over a lawn destroy all suggestion of unity and conspire to obscure the motive of the planter ; his cultivated area, consequently, whether it be large or small, loses all meaning to the ob- server and lacks at the same time that indi- viduality which is one of the most desirable features in a properly planned and _ planted yard. On the other hand the mass planting of shrubs adds harmony to a place, contributes to its unity, assists in defining the motive and, in most instances, supplies a touch of strength which is as essential to a well and tastefully beautified yard as a suggestion of delicacy.
SHRUBS
Suudg Apiey ul
AUOIT VAT, oY} JO SULOSSOT
248 YARD AND GARDEN
Some beginners probably will find it difficult to distinguish between shrubs and small trees. But this need not discourage them; expe- rienced planters are similarly perplexed. What one calls a small tree another may call a shrub, the distinction being often difficult. Shrubs, as a rule, have a number of stems springing from the ground whereas a tree possesses but a single trunk. Still this is not true in all cases.
The wide variety in habit of growth, foliage, fruit and flower makes the worth of shrubs. They can be had for every situation, of vary- ing height, and of varying seasons of bloom. As the leaves differ, so the flowers differ, or the berries in cases where the shrub’s chief value is determined by its fruit rather than by its bloom, but if in any of these respects the variation is wide it is no wider than the varia- tion in the uses to which shrubs may be profit- ably put. They serve to conceal foundation. walls; they form backgrounds for plants; they act as harmonizing agents between lawn and tall-growing trees; they can be used as a cov- ering for ground which on account of its slope, exposure or other adverse conditions will not support grass, and they are valuable as mate-
Shrubbery Walk in Small City Yard
2950 YARD AND GARDEN
rial for breaking dead levels and hiding and obscuring unpleasant views.
They may be used also to supply motive for a sudden or abrupt turn or termination of a walk. Very frequently a walk is given a slight or even pronounced turn without apparent cause; instead of being what it should be, the most direct means of getting from one point to another, the walk twists until it follows a rambling course which is utterly purposeless and inexcusable. But, where the turn is pro- jected; plant a clump of shrubs and there is at once established a sensible and logical reason for the turn. The walk then seems to curve in order to avoid the shrubs planted in its more direct course.
Another considerable advantage shrubs pos- sess 1s that, once established, they require com- paratively little attention. This does not mean, of course, that they should be _ heedlessly planted or grossly neglected. Though very frequently they will grow when conditions are both unpleasant and unfit for them, still if the best results are to be obtained some consid- eration must be had for the demands of the plants. They will reward the gardener royally for the care he bestows on them.
SHRUBS 251
PLANTING AND ARRANGING SHRUBS
In preparing beds for shrubbery, spade the ground to a depth of at least two feet, work into the soil well-rotted manure, make it fine and soft, and see to it that it will not suffer from want of proper drainage. In planting first examine the roots and, where these have been broken or twisted in transit, cut off the broken or injured portions with a sharp knife, then, having prepared a hole amply large for the reception of the bush, set it in at a shghtly lower level than that at which it stood before it was lifted. This depth can readily be ascer- tained by observing the marks left by the soil on the stem or stems. Allow sufficient room for the development of the shrubs, bearing in mind the fact that they increase their spread as they grow older, avoid crowding, and avoid also set- ting them too far apart. Group them by plant- ing the taller-growing varieties in the rear and the dwarfs in the front, but do not aim at too uniform an effect. Occasionally it may be de- sirable to establish a round bed, although there ean be but little need for such an arrangement, but if this method of planting is considered de- sirable, place the taller-growing varieties in
202 YARD AND GARDEN
the center and group the dwarf sorts around them. This arrangement is suggested not only because it presents a better appearance but because if it were not followed it is obvious that the low-growing shrubs would be entirely hidden by the taller varieties and at the same time so densely shaded by the folhage that they would soon perish.
In any event avoid monotony. Shrubs in this respect are easily abused and often, through lack of judgment in planting, monotony occurs where the purpose was the contrary. But in avoiding any suggestion of regularity the planter must also avoid any appearance of studied irregularity. Do not plant in straight lines and do not plant in mechanical zigzags. Group the shrubs.
CULTIVATION
Though hardy shrubs require little protec- tion in winter, still it is always best to leave on the ground the leaves they drop at the first touch of frost and to add to these additional small quantities as the winter advances. Very little trimming or pruning should be practised. Keep the dead wood well cut out but be ex- ceedingly cautious in applying the pruning
SHRUBS 253
Shears in any other manner. Occasionally, where a shrub assumes a tall, spindling growth, it may be advantageous to cut it back to in- duce a broader and more spreading growth. Wherever this is necessary cut back boldly or the purpose of the pruning will not be accom- plished. But, for the most part, let the shrub have its own way, especially when it is healthy and vigorous, and apply the shears only when it is absolutely necessary. Shrubs’ sheared into unnatural forms seldom possess any value as ornaments unless the effect aimed at is alto- gether formal.
VARIETIES
On the smaller grounds in town or city the greatest value of shrubs is in the grouping of many flowering varieties in one mass so that a succession of bloom is insured from April to November. If only seven shrubs were planted it would be possible to maintain such a suc- cession, the bloom first appearing immediately after the last frost in spring and continuing until autumn frosts blight the bushes. This list would include:
URTV EGS RN al ie icra aaa a a April So tae NODE dh met cock PN eof ke & Las Faye whe May SLI Bel SS Rese oe i Ae ea June
MDM aetet sPaae ee to ae bet. tat ease tae ea July
254 YARD AND GARDEN
Rhus (smoke buislihs co scGie eiekiy oes rans) August El ydranged Oyo.) eee eee ees? wee September Hamame}lis: \(wirtch-hazel): p26 wise Seas October
All these shrubs are perfectly hardy and will respond graciously to ordinary treatment in any good garden soil. Moreover, good plants of large size may be obtained at small expendi- ture, the whole collection costing from one to two dollars, according to their age.
It would hardly be possible to prepare a list of the essential qualities which should be de- manded of shrubs for the home embellishment —the preparation of such a list would require consideration of the individual places to be planted. Still, whether grounds are large or small, whether many plants are required or few, and whether shrubs are desired for bloom or foliage value, to obtain the best effects from their use, plant them as a general rule in masses. Use them liberally, for they possess more actual value than perennials in that they are more permanent and, compared with an- nuals, they demand but little attention. In a word, you may plant annuals for a season, per- ennials for a few years, trees for posterity, but shrubs you plant for yourself for imme- diate effect and for practically the whole of your own lifetime.
SHRUBS 955
It must also be borne in mind that there are evergreen as well as deciduous shrubs and that a judicious selection of the former will give a touch of life to the yard or grounds in winter which could not be obtained otherwise except through the use of evergreen trees. As long as we have these—both trees and
Flowers of the Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
shrubs—there is small excuse for any place either in the city or the country assuming a dead and desolate appearance in winter. Any one who has observed a group of rhododen- drons in winter with their great glossy leaves ean not fail to be impressed by the life they lend to the landscape. Rhododendrons, how-
256 YARD AND GARDEN
ever, are not the only shrubs that lend them- selves to this particular use, for here again a variety is presented which affords the planter a wide field from which to select. There is, for instance, the Mountain Laurel (Kalma latifolia), which is without doubt one of the choicest of American broad-leaved evergreens. The leaves are particularly conspicuous in winter and as the Kalmia is perfectly hardy as far north as Maine and is neither difficult to establish nor difficult to maintain, it forms one of the most valuable shrubs in the list. In the spring its sheets of bright rosy-pink flowers, delicately adorned with carmine dots, add to its value for decorative purposes.
Then again, among the most useful of our early spring-flowering shrubs are the hardy azaleas, many varieties of which have persist- ent evergreen foliage. A low-growing shrub with evergreen foliage and of compact habit, bearing white flowers in great abundance in spring is the Andromeda floribunda or Pieris floribunda. Mahonia Aquifolium, or Berberis Aquifolium, as it is more properly known, is another dwarf species with purplish shining prickly leaves retained throughout the winter, and with showy bright yellow flowers in dense
SHRUBS 207
clusters in May succeeded by bluish-black ber- ries. Its handsome deep green glossy foliage, which assumes a bronze or coffee hue in winter, and its neat habit render it especially valuable for decorative planting. Another evergreen shrub of value is Huonymus Japonicus, or Japanese euonymus.
SHRUBS SUITED TO THE CITY YARD
In the selection of evergreen varieties for planting in cities, we are to some extent lim- ited by soil conditions and by the Injury in- flicted by the smoke-filled atmosphere. Only such evergreens as will most sturdily withstand these blasts of coal smoke and which, at the same time, will not make too many demands for special soils should be planted. In the list of deciduous shrubs, however, we find less delicacy displayed; they submit more happily to adverse conditions which the evergreens could scarcely withstand, and apparently thrive de- spite them. While the deciduous varieties that bloom in late summer are few, there is ap- parently no end to the varieties that flower in spring or early summer. In the list of these not only is almost every color of flower to be had and every height from one to twelve feet
958 YARD AND GARDEN
as well as numerous varieties of foliage, but there will be found shrubs for almost every conceivable situation and purpose. Indeed, with so many varieties at hand the amateur will experience no difficulty in obtaining what he may require but, on the contrary, will doubt- less be embarrassed by the quantities from
Hardy Azalea in Bloom
which to select. As‘he reads descriptions it will seem to him that first this shrub and then that is absolutely indispensable, but he will do best if he limits the varieties he selects to those which are most commonly employed. Hx- perience has proved the value of these and they are, generally speaking, quite as effective and
SHRUBS 259
quite as adaptable to his purpose as any of the rarer shrubs which nurserymen may offer in their catalogues.
A showy shrub is the lilac (Syringa) with pink, white or hlace blossoms. It is best, how- ever, not to mix the three colors but to mass each variety separately, thereby obtaining a stronger and at the same time a more restful effect. In planting lilacs obtain good shrubs. Do not plant a bush because it is to be had for nothing; it seldom proves worth the trouble. Avoid also the double-flowered varieties, for their flowers are heavier and less graceful and give no suggestion of the freedom and uncon- ventionality of the single variety. The Mock Orange, or syringa as it is sometimes called, (Philadelphus), is a hardy, —free-flowering shrub with showy flowers appearing in late spring. If the most fragrant variety is desired, obtain Philadelphus coronarius. The Snow Ball (Viburnum) should not be forgotten. Avoid the old-fashioned kind which is invaria- bly a prey to aphids or plant-lice whose ravages cause the leaves to curl and the flowers to lose their beauty, and select instead Japanese Snow Ball which, though it has smaller flowers, pos- sesses better foliage and habit. This is known
260 YARD AND GARDEN
to nurserymen as Viburnum plicatum, although its proper designation would be Viburnum tomentosum, var. plicatum. It attains a height of eight feet—some four feet less than the common snow ball—and has especially attrac- tive foliage while its globose flower clusters are three to four inches across.
Rhododendron in Bloom
The Spirea forms another group of shrubs excellent for a small city yard. The most pop- ular. species probably are 8S. Van Houttei, S. Thunbergu and S. prunifolia. The blossoms of these are white and are borne in May and June. The common Bridal Wreath is 8S. Van Houtter. The Thunberg .Spirea (snow gar-
SHRUBS 261
land) comes into bloom earlier and of this va- riety there is a hybrid known as Spirea arguta which is considered by many to be the showiest of all the earlier blooming spireas.
SEASON FOR PLANTING
In the matter of determining the season for planting, whether it shall be spring or fall, no fixed rule can be given. In any event plant early enough, if the spring be selected, to insure the plant’s establishing itself before the hot suns of summer scorch it, and if the fall season be chosen, set the plants early enough in autumn to insure their becoming established before hard freezing begins. Eivergreens should be planted very early’ in spring or in August. After the shrubs are once established most of them, save for an occasional pruning, will take care of themselves, but it 1s always well to have on hand a little ammoniacal carbonate of cop- per ready to be diluted and to be applied to the shrubs in the form of a spray for all fungus attacks, and a little hellebore and _ similar poison to preserve them from the onslaught of destructive insects.
Whether deciduous or evergreen shrubs are used their value as ornaments for the small city
962 YARD AND GARDEN
yard is quickly apparent if we will only observe our own habit of vision as we pass along the streets. While it is seldom that our line of vision takes in the foliage of trees, our sight as a general rule rests upon those objects which are on a line with our eyes. In other words, while we infrequently turn our gaze upward
Flowers of the Tall-growing Bird Cherry
toward the tree-tops, almost constantly our vi- sion is directed to those objects which are on a level or below the level of our sight. We may fail to observe the form or character of the foliage of a tree but it is not likely that we shall fail to observe the low-growing shrub, especially when our gaze is attracted by the
SHRUBS
bo
63
mass of bloom put forth in spring and sum- mer. If this fact were more frequently taken. into consideration shrubs undoubtedly would be more plentifully planted. Because of this fact, they add to a city yard a means of con- trast which on a large estate could be obtained only by the judicious planting of tall-growing trees. By the use of shrubs, therefore, we are provided with the finishing touches which are necessary to the completion of the picture we desire to produce with nature’s materials.
The following list will assist the amateur in selecting shrubs for various situations and pur- poses:
THE BEST HARDY SHRUBS
FOR SHADY SITUATIONS
_ Mountain Laurel, Kalmia latifolia Mountain Fetter Bush, Pieris (Andromeda) floribunda Mahonia, Berberis Aquifolium St. John’s Wort, Hypericum aureum Barberry, in variety, Berberis Privet in variety, Ligustrum Dogwood in variety, Cornus Sweet Pepper, Clethra alnifolia Wolfberry or Snowberry in variety, Symphoricarpos Sweet-scented shrub, Calycanthus floridus Wild Black currant, Ribes floridum Slender deutzia, Deutzia gracilis Rough-Leaved deutzia, Deutzia scabra Japanese quince, Cydonia Japonica
SHRUBS THAT BLOOM TWO MONTHS Japanese rose, Kerria Japonica Shrubby cinquefoil, Potentilla fruticosa Sweet pepper, Clethra alnifolia
264 YARD AND GARDEN
St. John’s Wort, Hypericum prolificum Red root, Ceanothus Americanus Stagger-bush, Pieris Mariana
EVERGREEN SHRUBS
Mahonia, Berberis Aquifolium
Evergreen azalea, Azalea amoena
Mountain laurel, Kalmia latifolia
Mountain fetter-bush, Pieris (Andromeda) floribunda Rhododendron Catawbiense and hybrids
Dwarf pine, Pinus montana, var. Mughus
SHRUBS WITH VARIEGATED FOLIAGE
Purple-leaved barberry, Berberis vulgaris, var. atropurpurea Dogwood in variety, Cornus
Syringa, Philadelphus coronarius, var. aureus
Weigelia, Diervilla rosea, var. nana variegata
Shrubby Althea, Hibiscus Syriacus, var. fl. pl. fol. var. Purple-leaved plum, Prunus Pissardi
Golden elder, Sambucus nigra, var. aurea
Filbert, Corylus maxima, var. purpurea
SHRUBS THAT BLOOM FROM APRIL TO JUNE
Goldenbell, Forsythia suspensa Japanese Quince, Cydonia Japonica Juneberry, Amelanchier
Lilac, Syringa vulgaris and varieties Barberry, Berberis vulgaris
Azalea, in variety
Daphne
White Kerria, Rhodotypos kerrioides Spirea in variety
Tree peonies in variety, Peonia Moutan Bush honeysuckle, Lonicera Tatarica Deutzia
Snowball, Viburnum
SHRUBS THAT BLOOM IN JULY, AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER
Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis
Spircea
Sweet pepper, Clethra alnifolia
St. John’s Wort, Hypericum prolificum Deutzia
Hydrangea paniculata var. grandiflora Shrubby Althea in variety, Hibiscus Syriacus
SHRUBS 26
OU
SHRUBS WITH ORNAMENTAL FRUIT
3arberry, Berberis, scarlet and violet in September
Red Osier, Cornus sanguinea, white berries in September
Oleaster, Hlwagnus longipes, red fruit
Strawberry bush, Euonymus, red and white fruit
Cornelian cherry, Cornus mascula, fruit red
Bush honeysuckle, Lonicera, in variety, showy red and yellow fruit
Brambles, Rubus, in variety. red fruit
Elder, Sambucus, purple fruit, changing to black in August and September
Snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosus, white berries all winter
Wayfaring tree, Viburnum Lantana, bright red, nearly black in September
High cranberry, Viburnum Opulus, red fruit, very orna- mental
Mahonia, Berberis Aquifolium, bluish berries in July
Buckthorn, Rhamnus, black fruit
CHAPTER XIII
TREES
If it 1s well understood—as it should be— that the lawn surrounding the house is the canvas upon which a picture is to be made, we shall appreciate the fact that the extent to which trees are planted will depend entirely upon the size of the lawn. Naturally, where the area is small and the plot of grass is lim- ited, more dependence must be placed on shrubs than on trees. In a yard of generous dimensions, the trees have a place; and, in such situations, they are the legitimate materials with which the landscape gardener obtains many of his most effective results.
PROPER SETTING FOR TREES
In the city yard of small size, trees, espe- cially those which attain a great height, can not be employed effectively. Here, if trees are planted, very often the desired .picture is marred. It is, for instance, little less than ab-
266
TREES 267
PLANTING A TREE
Dig the hole large and Set the tree straight and deep, laying surface soil to throw surface soil around one side. Loosen earth in the roots. Leave no air bottom of hole. spaces; firm with the hand.
Throw in more soil, Do not firm the top layer steadying the tree, and of soil; let it remain loose tramp into place. Be care- and pulverized, Slightly
ful not to injure the roots. mound the soil,
268 YARD AND GARDEN
surd, as was said in the chapter on shrubs, to set one or more. of the tall-growing varieties in a front yard that is no more than ten or fif- teen feet deep and forty feet wide; the space could be employed to far greater advantage. We want shade but not at the expense of sun- light, fresh air, good taste and health.
Still, trees have their value and it is only necessary to give them the proper setting in order to make apparent immediately how great this value is. To crowd them on a small area where they will not thrive, or to plant them where, owing to their size, they are entirely purposeless, is an error. Yet it is only too fre- quently made; indeed, it is rather the rule than the exception. It seems to be the disposition of most persons, as soon as they obtain a lot whereon they expect to build sooner or later, to begin immediately the planting of trees. Without due consideration of the future possi- bilities, of the health of the trees themselves or the appearance of the place, they order them to be set out and thereafter are reluctant to get rid of them even though they find subsequently that their planting was unwise. Irresponsible agents of nurseries are to a great degree respon-
TREES 269
sible for this indiscriminate practice, for they no sooner learn that an unimproved lot has been purchased by a prospective home-builder than they besiege him. In glowing terms they de- scribe the various sorts they offer and in the end usually triumph by closing a contract for enough stock of the kind to plant an entire acre.
The simple truth is that we buy trees and plant trees without giving due thought to either the purchase or the planting. We set them out because they are trees and not be- cause they will lend beauty to the yard. While this statement is made deliberately, it is not to be understood as decrying in any sense the ornamental value of the tree. The intention, on the contrary, is to impress the planter with the idea that indiscriminate planting is to be avoided and that if the full value of the decora- tive quality of the tree is to be realized, it must be given not a haphazard setting but one in which it can show to best advantage and in which it will harmonize most gracefully with all its surroundings. There is ample reason for objection to the planting of tall-growing trees on ordinary city lots where the valuable
270 YARD AND GARDEN
space is so small as to make a tree a ridiculous if not a pitiful sight.
Where the yard is narrow and shallow with a front lawn not more than fifteen feet deep and the area in the rear of the house not more than thirty feet deep, trees are out of place. Doubtless there are many who will take issue with this statement, but in support of the con- tention, it should be necessary only to point to small yards upon which are crowded large trees and small yards upon which shrubs, vines and flowers appear in their stead. The difference in appearance should prove convine- ing.
PLACING TREES SUITABLY
To begin with, trees require many years be- fore they reach that stage of perfection where they cease to be mere nursery stock. Until that stage is attained they are usually lacking in decorative value for the reason that they have not perfected their growth. In the sec- ond place, when they have attained mature height and spread of branches, if they are even fair specimens of what they should be, in by far the majority of instances they have out- grown their surroundings and appear out of place. In the third place, it is difficult to grow
TREES Zt
healthy trees under conditions presented by the small city lot; usually there is a surplus of _ shade in one direction or a surplus of sun in another, protection from one side and lack of protection from the other, and all these things tend to make a tree more or less one-sided in its growth—a blemish which mars the appear- ance of the tree and discounts to a great de- gree its value as an ornament. If there be any doubt of the truth of this statement compare _ the tree grown in the city with the field-grown specimen where conditions are not unbalanced and where the growth is unhampered and un- impeded.
BORDERING PARKS
If provision were made on all city streets for bordering parks wide enough to acecommo- date trees, not only would it be unnecessary to plant them within the limits of yards, but the general effect obtained would be _ better. Sometime it will be more commonly recognized that in residence sections of our larger cities, width of roadway may be often reduced with- out loss to gain additional width to the street parks. In far too many instances, we fancy that we must have great width from curb to
272 YARD AND GARDEN
eurb and no parks, whereas, it would profit us a great deal more, so far as appearances are concerned, to have less width between curbs -and more width in the border between sidewalk and curb. If the latter policy were adopted, by the judicious selection and planting of trees
Tree that has never been Trees ruined by ignorant pruned pruner : (Photos. by Benjamin W. Douglass)
on these bordering spaces, the entire street would take upon itself an appearance imnpossi- ble to obtain where everything is sacrificed to roadway width.
There is no prettier or more refreshing sight than city streets bordered on both sides by tall-growing and wide-spreading trees in
TREES 273
healthy vigor, in mature strength, far-reaching in spread of foliage and with leaves and limbs free from pest and disease. Residences are sufficiently shaded, the streets themselves be- come leafy archways and those who live there- on as well as those who use them as _high- ways can not fail to mark the beautiful aspect they present.
If, on the other hand, we thrust our side- walks against the curb, widening the road- way until the last available inch has been seized upon, and abolish the bordering park, we have converted a street into a mere thor- oughfare for traffic and have robbed it of all the ornamental possibilities it might otherwise possess. Or, if we crowd the sidewalk out and the street curbing in until we have left a bor- der only two or three feet in width, our only gain is something which is practically value- less. Under such conditions it is difficult to establish even a fair growth of grass. It would be better to carry the crowding process to its extreme and rid ourselves completely of this strip of grass. But, where it is possible to have street parks of fair width, either at the sides or in the middle of the Street, trees should be planted and every effort should be made to
274 YARD AND GARDEN
insure their steady growth and healthful de- velopment.
TREES ON LARGE CITY LOTS
Of course, where a city lot measures as much as one hundred feet in width and one hundred and fifty feet in depth trees may be used to ad- vantage, for some shade about the house is an absolute necessity if the hot days of our sum- mer months are to be spent with comfort and if we are to be protected from the cold of our bleak and dreary winters. But this does not mean that they are as available as decorative material to the planter of such a yard as they are to the landscape gardener who is working on the extensive area of a country estate. On the latter, trees are used to hide unattractive views or to form backgrounds against which ~ other ornamental materials are employed and here also they may stand for their own indi- vidual beauty. On such a place they have ‘‘ pur- pose’’; there is motive for their planting. On the small city lot there is seldom the one or the other.
Frequently, however, city lots are purchased whereon already a tree of large size has estab- lished itself. Where such is the case every ef-
TREES 279
fort should be made to save the tree; it should be protected from any possible damage at the hands of excavators, ditchers, or carpenters, and where one ‘obtains such a prize one should make every effort to set the house so that the tree need not be sacrificed. Even if it is nec- essary to locate the dwelling three or four feet in one direction or another from the site origi- nally selected it will usually pay to make the change; the builder can well afford to accomo- date himself to the requirements of a stately and magnificent tree specimen which, no matter how he might plant or cultivate, could hardly be duplicated in the course of a lifetime.
PRUNING
Very often the fact that such trees are estab- lished on the lot purchased presents not a few problems for solution. The tree may, for in- Stance, interfere with the grading desired. - This, however, is not difficult to overcome if a little ingenuity is exercised. Sometimes the trees will require pruning and wherever such is the case the work should be undertaken by a person of unquestioned knowledge and ex- perience. Too often splendid specimens of trees have been ruined by ‘‘butchers’’ who
210 YARD. AND GARDEN
possess no knowledge whatever of pruning re- quirements. They have ‘‘hacked’’ the tree out of all semblance of shape, destroyed its pro- portion and ‘‘headed’’ it back until, if it re- covers from the process at all, it will never attain the perfect form it possessed before the inexperienced laborer began his work. Severe trimming and subsequent training in many in- stances may be necessary, but rather than prune too severely it would be better to err on the safe side, obtaining the effect desired by degrees rather than by submitting the tree to the tender mercies of a man without know- ledge or experience. When a tree is old, long straggling branches are in many cases the cause of retarded growth; they are exposed to the heat of the sun and to the drying winds and the sap is impeded in its flow to such an ex- tent that very little new growth can be made. If these branches be headed back, not too se- verely, new growth will soon show and the trunk and limbs will subsequently be clothed and protected while the tree’s form will be im- proved. But, in cutting off branches, if they be large, the wounds left should be painted with linseed oil paint. This prevents decay of the wood and serves to protect the tree from
TREES
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diseases which often follow the operation of pruning.
If the following principles are borne in mind pruning will cease to be a mystery to the novice and his trees thereafter need not be left at the merey of the ignorant:
1. Pruning the top strengthens the limbs re- maining—the root system is not altered.
2. Pruning the roots retards top growth be- cause it reduces the supply of food.
3. Trimming away terminal growths causes forking which, obviously, increases or thick- ens the branch system. It likewise encourages fruit and flower production.
4. Winter pruning produces greater vigor in limbs permitted to remain; summer pruning produces more wood.
9. Light annual pruning is better than heavy pruning done at longer intervals.
6. Dead wood should be removed at once, no matter the season.
TRANSPLANTING LARGE TREES
Modern methods now in vogue permit the successful transplanting of trees of extraor- dinary height and with an extensive spread of roots. When, therefore, a lot is obtained upon
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which there are no old trees and upon which it is desired to have trees of large size for im- mediate effect, these may be employed. Of course, while the tree presents no exception to the rule that the younger a plant is the better it withstands transplanting, still if the opera- tion is carefully carried forward trees will suf- fer few ill effects from the transplanting. The principles governing the operation are the same whether the tree is large or small; it is only in their execution that there is a difference. Small trees may be transplanted by hand, whereas various mechanical devices have been perfected for the safe transplanting of the larger trees. By these devices or machines an immense ball of earth is lfted with the roots and the roots themselves are but slightly damaged. Where these machines are not to be had they may be approximated by. the use of the riggings commonly employed by , house ‘movers.
Many persons believe that the moving of large trees, even when the operation 1s accom- plished with apparent success and without evi- dent damage to the root system, is invariably an ultimate failure. They are inclined to be- heve that smaller trees: which have not been
TREES
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280 YARD AND GARDEN
submitted to such violent disturbance quickly overtake the larger trees. This idea arises, no doubt, from the custom which still very gener- ally prevails of moving trees with trunks six to twelve inches in diameter, with only a small ball of roots measuring, in some instances, only three or four feet in diameter. This ball, as small as it is, can not contain the larger roots and, as from sixty to ninety per cent. of the feeding roots are lost in the process, the tree naturally receives a set-back from which it is not likely to recover. It sends out its leaves, using in this process the plant foods stored with- in its cells but, having nothing with which to replenish the supply, fails to support the foliage and, in successive seasons, the leaves are less plentiful, the branches die and the bark itself perishes.
In the transplanting of large trees it is most important to obtain all the roots possible. In order to do this the digging should be begun at a distance great enough from the trunk of the tree to permit all the excavation that may be necessary. As the ends of the roots are un- covered they should be carefully lifted and tied so as not to impede the progress of the work- men or suffer damage at their hands. As the
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earth is removed from beneath the tree the tree itself should be made secure by ropes which, by the employment of pulleys, can be so ad- justed as to give the tree at all stages of the operation the necessary pitch to facilitate the excavating. Supports should be placed under the ball of earth remaining in contact with the roots so that the tree will not be in danger of falling into the hole made by the diggers. Then, with the root system uncovered and carefully tied so that no damage will result, by use of the ‘‘jacks’’ and other apparatus commonly employed by house movers, the tree may be lifted and brought to its final location.
TRANSPLANTING SMALL TREES
But, when a tree is small, we have no such difficulties to encounter in transplanting it. As already suggested, nursery-grown trees which have been transplanted once or twice— as most nursery trees are—prove the best. They have been cultivated with a view to trans- planting and withstand the operation much more successfully. Such specimens, if sound, full of life and planted in a favorable soil, are almost sure to thrive. To make this surer, however, it is necessary to remember a few
282 YARD AND GARDEN
fundamental principles in the treatment and eare of the stock that is being transplanted. As soon as the tree is received from the nur- sery, it should be pruned. First, cut out all the broken branches; second, cut back all the side branches to within a few inches of the stem, leaving at least two sound buds; third, the leader should be cut back; and fourth, all the broken or bruised roots should be cut away just above the wound with a sharp knife, mak- ing the cut in such manner that, as the tree is set on the bottom of the hole, the cut surface of the remaining stub will come in direct con- tact with the soil. It is also advisable to shorten slightly any straggling roots which may appear. |
These rules apply particularly to fruit trees that ‘may be set out on the home grounds, but in the planting of shade and ornamental trees the process is not very different. Of course, the owner does not relish the idea of buying a fifteen-foot Norway maple, for instance, only to cut off its top and half of its roots before he plants it. But it is always best to cut back the tops of the trees to a considerable degree when they are transplanted, for the root sys- tem is almost invariably reduced and if the top
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is not shortened in similar proportions the bal- ance between roots and top, which it is always wise to preserve, is destroyed.
METHOD OF PLANTING
Deciduous trees must be transplanted either very early in the spring, as soon as the ground ean be worked, or late in the fall after the leaves have fallen. Possibly the best results follow spring planting under ordinary conditions. But, whichever the season selected, the hole to receive the trees must be deeper and larger than the root mass and in the bottom there should be a liberal quantity of well-rotted manure stirred in the soil. On top of this in turn there should be a layer of three or four inches of good earth. 7
It is always best in setting the tree to have at hand a quantity of finely pulverized soil which may be thrown in as soon as the tree is placed in position. As the hole is gradually filled make sure that the dirt is pressed down frequently and that the roots come in close and intimate contact with the earth so that no air spaces are left. Also make sure that the roots are spread in a natural position and that no two of them touch each other. Do not hesitate
284 YARD AND GARDEN
to firm the soil thoroughly about the roots so that the new growth will be encouraged from the beginning. While it is possible, of course, to apply too much pressure to the soil about the roots, more often the trouble is due to a lack of pressure. Before the soil is made firm, see that there is sufficient earth underlying the roots to prevent any damage to them owing to the pressure from above. When the roots have been covered with earth and this has been ‘‘firmed,’’ water should be applied liber- ally. After this the remaining dirt should be thrown in loosely and not tamped at all. Ap- plied in this manner, it serves as a mulch and is far better than when the soil is rendered hard and compact from the surface down.
CULTIVATION
The planting does not represent the end of the work by any means. ‘Trees require plant food and unless the soil.is naturally very rich this food must be supphed from time to time. When the tree is planted on the lawn and lib- eral dressings of manure are suppled for the grass in the fall or spring, this usually will suf- fice for the trees. But trees are always grate- ful for plant food in any form, such as ground
TREES 285
bone and potash or other good commercial fer- tilizers or barnyard manure. Watering also should not be neglected while the tree is re- covering from the shock of transplanting, and the water should be so generously supplied that there will be no chance of the moisture fail- ing to reach the roots. Mere dampening of the surface is of no benefit; the water must be given in such quantity that it will saturate the soil and penetrate to the roots. This takes ~much more water than is commonly supposed, for the diffusion of moisture through the soil when supphed to the surface is so slow that the beginner may imagine that, because a pud- dle has been formed on top, the roots have been plentifully supplied.
EVERGREENS :
In the transplanting of evergreens more care is necessary than with the deciduous trees. They should be planted a full month before the usual summer drought sets in or before the cold of wimter is due. This advice is made reasonable at once when it is considered that the roots of evergreens must supply the foliage with moisture every day in the year. There- fore, if established before natural conditions
286 YARD AND GARDEN
begin to tax all the energies and resources of the trees, they are more likely to sueceed. In winter, for instance, a few days of sunshine will prove a severe trial for even an old-estab- lished tree; the leaves dry faster than the frozen roots ean replace the sap lost. A newly planted tree, under such conditions, would suf- fer severely, for the roots, broken and bruised, would find the task too much for them in their enfeebled condition. So far as transplanting in summer is concerned, it must be remembered that evergreens are far more sensitive than de- ciduous trees to drying of the roots. The presence of the resinous sap is the explanation ; this, when slightly dried, hardens. On this ac- count, avoid exposing the roots of evergreens to the sun or wind; even when conveying the trees only a short distance, puddle the roots or wrap them in wet sackcloth. See to it also that all ragged ends of roots are neatly trimmed, cutting off the broken end square and clean. But never prune the foliage. The leader may be cut out if considered necessary, but, further than this, no trimming should be done. Not enough can be accomplished in the way of restoring the balance between root and top growth to make the pruning of value, while
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288 YARD AND GARDEN
even a little pruning—in addition to cutting back the leader—will mar the symmetry and beauty of the specimen.
SELECTING TREES
American and European nurseries offer more than six hundred species of trees that are hardy in the northern and middle states of this country. Of this number nearly two hun- dred and fifty are natives of America; the others come from eastern, western and central Asia and Hurope. IF'rom such a list, of course, it is possible to make selections almost without limit, but only such trees should be planted as are well adapted to the conditions under which they are to be grown. On this account native trees are always to be preferred, for these will be better suited to the climate and soil and ac- cordingly will be more likely to succeed.
The selection of trees for street and avenue planting is a matter of much importance.. No matter how imposing may be the architecture of a city, the foliage of trees will enhance its value; on the other hand, no matter how un- pretentious, even ugly, the structures may be, the trees will lend them beauty. They provide erateful shade in summer for overheated man
TREES 289
and beast and, from a pecuniary point of view, they are a good investment, attracting atten- tion and inviting home-seekers. T'ortunately the list from which we ean select for this pur- pose is large and varied, but the following are undoubtedly the best, all considered: The American elm (Ulmus Americana); the Kng- —jish elm (Ulmus campestris); the horse chest- nut (4sculus Hippocastanum) ; the silver ma- ple (Acer saccharinum); the American ash (Fraxinus Americana); the buttonwood or sycamore (Platanus occidentalis) ; the maiden- hair tree (Ginkgo biloba); the rock or sugar maple (Acer saccharum); the Norway maple (Acer platanoides); the American beech (fa- gus ferruginea); the white poplar (Populus alba) ; the American linden ( Tilia Americana) ; the European linden (Tilia vulgaris) ; the tree of Heaven (Ailanthus glandulosa); the white willow (Salix alba); the tulip tree (Lirioden- dron tulipifera) ; the red oak (Quercus rubra) ; and the pin oak (Quercus palustris).
In the planting of street trees, sanitary and hygienic conditions must be considered. The streets should not be too shaded, nor should the trees themselves be crowded. The minimum distance apart for setting the trees fixed by
290 YARD AND GARDEN
experts is sixty feet, but in the case of the large growers, like the elms and soft maples, seventy-five feet would probably be better. It is usually found, however, that the distance is much less, each owner of a small lot planting two or three trees in the immediate front of his own home without regard to the proximity of neighboring trees. This is very likely to continue the case until municipal governments realize not only the advantages but the neces- sity of taking in hand the street planting as they have the control, the management and the ornamental planting of the public parks.
TREE-DESTROYERS
Trees planted in cities are established under artificial conditions and, in the care bestowed upon them, this fact must not be overlooked. A specimen growing in the open field, under “normal conditions, will in most instances take eare of itself; it requires no pruning—it prunes itself—and, in other respects, it thrives best, probably, when left to its own devices. But the same tree transplanted to a city site is introduced to abnormal conditions; the atmos- phere is smothery with smoke, buildings crowd it, electric light wires burn it, leaking gas suf-
TREES 291
foeates it, and careless excavators shatter its roots. It becomes an easy prey to insects and an easy victim of disease. It requires atten- tion, even some coddling, and unless attention is given it, its health is not likely to be remark- able. But it resents misdirected efforts in its behalf as much as it resents the infliction of damage due to less considerate motives. And probably the most persistent source of disas- ter is the ignorant laborer armed with pruning shears and saw to whom reference has already been made. Still he is not alone in the eate- gory of tree-destroyers. In every tree-top we ean read the history of some great fight with impending disaster. Leaf, flower, fruit, twig and branch recite the story to those who know the language, while, underground, other dis- closures await the intelligent investigator. Some of the enemies are natural but many of them can be traced to man and man’s civiliza- tion.
_ Insects come first. After these the most de- structive agent is fire. Winds, lightning, ice, drought and flood all cause damage; fungi at- tack the wood; wasteful lumbermen deplete the forests and bacterial and constitutional dis- eases lurk where least suspected.
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The insects may be combated with success if the battle is begun in time. Borers, infesting the solid wood, tunneling and cutting it into channels; sucking insects, puncturing the skin of leaves, fruit, twigs or roots and withdraw- ing the juices; chewing insects, devouring the substance of leaves and other parts of the tree —all these can be exterminated by the use of poisons, sprayed or fumigated, -or by the em- ployment of mechanical means. The borers must be dug out, but the chewing insects may be killed by spraying poison—Paris green or arsenic of lead, for instance—on their food. The sucking insects are killed by spraying with kerosene and water, made into an emul- sion, with whale-oil soap or with a mixture of lime and sulphur in solution. These sprays choke or smother the insect or so injure the body wall that the tree enemy succumbs.
CHAPTER XIV;
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS
Science, with all its discoveries, has not yet solved the mystery of soil. It has learned much from practical experiment and labora- tory investigation, but it has not yet unriddled the riddle of the soil’s support of plant life. We are still in the dark as to the nature of many of the substances which contribute to the formation of soil and we know no more of the part they play in plant nutrition. We know, in fact, little more than that the soil, far from being a dead, inert mass, is teeming with living organisms that are constantly at work. It is, as it has been described, a laboratory in which wonderful chemical actions are taking place whereby food for vegetable life is sup- _ plied and means provided for its assimilation by plant roots.
But with the theory of all this, the gardener has little to do. Like the electrician who harnesses a power whose very nature is a mys-
293
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Decorative Value of the Haw
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 995
tery, the cultivator may proceed to turn to practical use what Nature has provided even though he has no intimate knowledge of the purposes or the processes involved. Iix- perience must be his teacher and, in this in- stance, at least, it is a good instructor.
COMPOSITION OF SOIL
Plants, we know, must feed and breathe if they are to live. We know further that some soils provide the plants with the necessities of life in plentiful quantity, others half starve them and still others feed them not at all. It is obvious that the gardener, if he is to have healthful, fully developed plants, must obtain, at first hand or by cultivation, soil conditions that will provide his plants with all they de- mand.
Soil, in a physical sense, is a substance com- posed chiefly of minute fragments of mineral -matter with which is mixed decayed vegetable and animal matter. According to its compo- sition it is one of three types — sand, clay or humus. Sandy soil contains 80 to 100 per cent. of sand, and, owing to the absence of vegetable or animal matter in any appreciable propor- tions, supplies but little nutriment to growing
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plants. It is valuable, however, as a medium in which to root cuttings, for fungus diseases seldom develop in such a soil, and, as the plantlets, until their roots have sprouted, re- quire little nourishment, outside of what is ob- tained through the water applied, no soil is better adapted to the purpose than that which is sandy.
Clay soils contain only a small proportion of sand—from 0 to 20 per cent.—and, unless in some manner more sand is added, it is of little value for plant raising. It contains an abun- dance of plant food, but, owing to the fact that the food is unavailable, plant life can not thrive in such a rooting medium. The small particles of soil are tightly compressed in clay and, though these absorb moisture, they give it off reluctantly. Roots suffer not only on this account but also through their inability to penetrate into the compact mass.
Humius is decayed vegetable matter and may, . in turn, be divided into two classes. The first is composed of vegetable matter which has come to decay in dry earth and is known as leaf-mold. The second is composed of vegeta- ble matter which has decayed under the water of bogs or Swamps and is known as peat. Both
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 291
are important constituents of good garden soil, but neither is supplied with all the nutri- tive substances demanded by plants for their development. Both are light and porous and are used to mix with stiffer soils to impart to the latter the two qualities for which they are most noteworthy. :
Soils, as they are found in yards, gardens and fields, are mixtures. They partake of the character of one or another of the types ac- cording to which contributes most to the com- position. A sandy soil, for instance, is that in which sand predominates, while a stiff, heavy soil, or clay soil, contains a greater quantity of clay than a well-proportioned soil should contain. These mixtures have in their turn been named. First, there is loam, a soil in which there is from 40 to 60 per cent. of sand and the rest clay. This is the basis. If a loam contains more sand—from 60 to 80 per cent.—it is known as a ‘‘sandy loam’’; if it contains less— 20 to 40 per cent.— it is known as a ‘‘ clay loam.’’ In most instances, some of the sand and clay is replaced by humus and, if the quantity be large, the soil is desig- nated as ‘‘ black loam.”’
Plant food is of three kinds—water, chem-
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ical substances and gases. The first is essen- tial not only as a source of food but as a food solvent and a distributing agency of many es- sential inorganic substances which plant life. requires. The principal chemical substances demanded by plants are potash, phosphorus and lime; and the gases are nitrogen, oxygen, earbon dioxide and hydrogen. Most of these are present in the average soils of meadows, but if the soil lacks them, they must be sup- plied in greater or less quantities and in avail- able form before sturdy plants of any sort can be raised. This we do by applying fertilizers.
GOOD GARDEN SOIL
Fertilizers, however, will not put poor soil into good mechanical condition. We might apply hundreds of pounds of any or all of these ferti- lizers to clay and still the plants supported by the soil would not prosper. This would be due to the fact that the food so supplied is not avail- able. The mechanical condition of the soil would prevent the proper assimilation of the food and the plants would perish. To get soil, therefore, into the best condition, we must first of all cultivate it, work it and see to it that, from the mechanical viewpoint, it does not pos-
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS — 299 sess an injurious surplus of sand or clay or humus. If the soil of our yards is too heavy, sand must be added; if too light, we must sup- ply clay and humus.
The matter is simple, and the amateur must not permit himself to become confused by tech- nical terms or to believe that the soil in his
Colony of Sedum spectabile in Poor Soil
yard is “‘impossible.’? Soil can usually be put into very good condition by no other process than thorough cultivation. It is not wise, there- fore, to be too hasty in deciding that the soil at your disposal is not good soil. In not a few instances, the amateur, bent upon supply- ing all the best conditions for plant growth,
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fancies that new soil is necessary. The old soil 1s removed and, in its place, new earth is deposited. The expense is great, but the real extravagance is only evident when it is learned subsequently that the work was alto- gether unnecessary. The author recalls one instance in which he was informed by an en- thusiastic beginner that the soil in the yard where the latter expected to establish his gar- den was worthless. <A visit to the place, how- ever, disclosed the fact that a rank growth of weeds had sprung up and was thriving so lux- uriantly that there could be no question of the value of the soil on hand. In another in- stance, over one hundred loads of soil were carted away from a back-yard and dumped up- on a vacant lot. This was done, of course, to make a place for good soil. Two months later, the weeds upon the ‘‘poor’’ soil stood higher than a man’s head and a colony of nas- turtiums had established itself and was produc- ing blooms finer than those the hasty begin- ner was coaxing in his new soil.
Sorauer, in his Physiology of Plants, says: ‘<The ideal condition of a soil is one in which it resembles a sponge, and in which it will re- tain the greatest amount of nutritive substances
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 301
_and water without losing its.capacity for absorb- ine air:”’
No briefer or more practical definition could be made and if the amateur pays heed to it many gardening problems and disappointments will be avoided. Cultivation is obviously the first means to the end, for not only does it bring the soil to good condition, but it renders available such plant food as it contains, and prepares the earth for the reception of addi- tional nutritive substances. At the same time, cultivation enables the gardener to provide, even in limited space, the soil most suitable for the plants he may desire to grow. For in- stance, if his soil be of a heavy nature, contain- ing less sand than it should, it will need com- paratively little modifying to make it fit for the growth of roses, plants that prefer such soil conditions. On the other hand, in the bed wherein he may desire to grow pansies, he will find that the addition of leaf-mold will insure him more vigorous plants and more profuse and larger blooms.
CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL
It follows, consequently, that if there be in the beginning a workable foundation, it is bet-
a02 YARD AND GARDEN
ter to bring it to the fittest condition by careful cultivation than to remove it entirely and sub- stitute a better soil, perhaps, but one which, after all, must be considerably modified to meet the demands of various plants. But, whether the soil is new or old, it must be well worked. Plow it or spade it and in either case make sure that the cultivation is deep and thorough. There is no better method of preparing the soil than that which the English gardener terms ‘‘bastard trenching.’’ It is_ effective and not difficult to execute. The top soil to the depth of one foot is removed, pulverized as it is thrown to one side, and the underlying soil is spaded to the depth of a foot. The sur- face earth is then replaced in its original po- sition. It is at once apparent that this method of digging garden beds and borders permits not only a thorough tillage of the soil but the addition of fertilizer and its complete incor- poration with the earth. It affords, too, a sim- ple means for the preparation of the soil for plants which may require special rooting me- diums; humus may be added while the opera- tion is in progress or sand or heavy soil may replace that which is not of proper physical condition. The process, moreover, insures the
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 303
removal of all stones and rubbish from the beds and borders so treated and discloses the necessity—should it exist—for providing drainage.
DRAINAGE
The subject of drainage should not be over- looked by the gardener, for it often means success or failure. In cases where the garden is small, confined to a bed or border, drainage may not play an important part. Still, even -in such instances, a water-logged soil is ob- viously not desirable. It can be corrected by removing the earth entirely to a depth of thirty inches and, after setting a five-inch layer of gravel in the bottom, refilling, being careful to replace the surface soil on top. Where, how- ever, larger areas are to be drained, tile pipe, set in runs, should be used.
FERTILIZERS
The use of fertilizers is a matter that proves difficult for the beginner to master. He is far more likely to surfeit his plants on too much than to. starve them on too little, and, so far as this danger is concerned, he must depend upon his own judgment to avoid it. No rule can be laid down for the application of animal ma-
304 — YARD AND GARDEN
nures or of those in chemical form, for soils differ materially and what might be right in one case would prove too much or too little in another. If, however, the amateur confines himself in the beginning to the use of animal manures, he will materially reduce the risk. Of these manures, produced by cow, horse, sheep and poultry, cow manure is the best and safest. In any event, it is most generally ap- plied and the best for the greatest number of plants. Horse manure is more heating and, with hen manure, should be used on stiff, cold soils rather than upon a warm, sandy com- post.
All animal manure should be well rotted be- fore it is applied. Make use of it only after it has stood at least six months and, during this period, been forked over frequently. It should then assume much of the appearance of rich, black earth, should be fine and should retain very little, if, indeed, any of its original form. So far as the quantity to be applied is con- cerned, here, as already stated, the gardener’s judgment must come into play, but, under ay- erage conditions, a wheel-barrow load to a square yard is as much as should be used. This is ample for strong-growing plants and for well
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 305
established shrubs; less should be distributed for plants of weaker growth.
Hen manure supplies fertilizing elements in more concentrated form than the other barn- yard products and,-on this account, should be applied cautiously. It is best used when mixed with an equal quantity of loam or leaf-mold. Sheep manure is also a strong fertilizer and, while it is to be recommended, especially as it can be had in pulverized form, it is best applied as a liquid fertilizer. Make the solution by suspending. a bag containing’ one pound in five gallons of water. When the solution assumes the color of tea, apply it to the beds or borders.
Cow manure may be applied in the same manner, using a bushel to fifty gallons of water. Another fertilizer which is readily applied in this manner is soot—soft coal soot. Soot water is made by suspending a bag containing
one-half pint of soot in ten gallons of water.
| Soot, however, is a valuable stimulant when ap- plied directly to the soil. It imparts a glossy dark green foliage and healthy vigor to many plants and, in both the flower and vegetable gardens, does much to banish pests such as caterpillars and leaf-miners.
YARD AND GARDEN
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SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 307
Hard-wood ashes, kept dry, are also valuable, not only as a fertilizer but as a preventive of in- sects. They should not be mixed with manure but’ should be strewn over the surfaces of beds or borders after the other manures have be- come incorporated with the soil.
Flowers and shrubs require a considerable quantity of phosphoric acid. Ground bone may be used to supply the demand and, besides containing this element, it also Supplies nitro- gen. A good dressing, to be mixed with the soil or applied to the surface in the autumn, is made of four parts of ground bone and one of muriate of potash. The mixture should be ap- plied at the rate of one pound to fifty or sixty Square feet of surface.
Nitrate of soda encourages luxuriant growth of stalk and foliage rather than of flowers. It should be applied at the rate of one ounce to the square yard.
A convenient and satisfactory liquid fertilizer can be made of the commercial fertilizers as follows:
5 oz. sulphate of potash 1 Ib. nitrate of soda 1 lb. monobasic calcium phosphate
These are added to one gallon of water and this solution, in turn, is diluted from fifteen to
308 YARD AND GARDEN
thirty times, beginning with the weaker solu- tion and, as growth progresses, gradually increasing the strength until the more concen- trated solution is being employed. When used on lawns to hasten growth, the proportion of nitrate of soda should be doubled and the eal- cium phosphate reduced by half, but, if used on plants, especially those grown in pots, reduce the nitrate one-half and double the amount of potash.
CHAPTER XV
INSECTS AND DISEASES
No sooner is a plant established or a garden planted than the gardener must begin his war against insect and disease. If it is not the one that menaces his plants, it is the other, and, not infrequently, both are present to work havoe if the planter is not on his guard. In the case of both, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure and, while preventive measures do not always insure the freedom of a yard, garden, orchard, shrubbery or planta- tion of shade trees from attack, at least they give the insects and diseases less opportunity to gain hold. Moreover, their exercise means a thoroughness that will result in the immedi- ate detection of an invasion and the subsequent attack upon the enemy before opportunity has been afforded for its establishing itself.
CLEANLINESS THE BEST PREVENTIVE
Cleanliness is the first and foremost means to the end. Keep the yard clean, the shrub- 309
510 YARD AND GARDEN
bery borders free from weeds and the hardy borders and flower-beds in a high state of culti- vation. Remove dead leaves, twigs and limbs and, if they appear to have perished from some abnormal cause, burn them. Be cautious in what you deposit on the compost bed for, very often, disease is reintroduced into the garden by using decayed vegetable matter that is in- fested with disease or in which are deposited the eggs of .destructive insects. In many in- stances, when an entire plant or shrub is badly attacked, it is best to remove the stricken plant at once and burn it without delay.
METHODS OF DESTROYING INSECTS
With the origin, history and classification of the various destructive insects, the gardener is not greatly concerned. It is more to his ad- vantage to know their habits, for it is through a knowledge of these that he is enabled to com- bat them. He must know, first of all, whether the insect which has invaded his garden or his orchard is a biting or a sucking insect. If the former, direct poisons, such as the arsenicals, are employed, for insects of this class actually masticate and swallow some portion of the solid substance of the plant, as the wood, bark,
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leaves, fruit or flower. If the insect, however, is of the sucking variety, injuring plants by the gradual consumption of plant juices—such as the thrips, plant-lice, scale insects and mites— then a poison must be used that will act exter- nally upon the bodies of the insects. Obtaining their food by inserting their sucking beaks into
Typical Chewing Insect (Cecropia moth)
the soft tissues of the plant that lie below the external covering, they escape poisons that would -prove fatal to the chewing insect and must be combated, therefore, by other and more direct means, such as the employment of caus- tic substances, those that will smother them by closing or clogging their breathing pores, or
INSECTS AND DISEASES 313
exterminate them by filling the air surrounding them with poisonous fumes.
The following table lists the insects most commonly met with and prescribes the poison for each, giving at the same time the names of the plants most frequently attacked.”
Ants—Usually harmful only on the lawn. Pour a teaspoonful of bisulphate of carbon in the holes and immediately cover or plug.
Aphis—Plant-lice, pale or dark green, brown or black, found on stems and leaves all sea- son outdoors and on indoor plants all winter. Spray with whale-oil soap or fumigate with to- bacco.
Borer—Many trees in addition to the maple are attacked by borers. The round-lieaded apple borer and the flat-headed borer attack the apple and the thorn; the peach borer attacks the plum, peach and cherry, and other trees, such as the poplar, willow, linden, locust, ete. Apply the same treatment as that prescribed for the maple-borer.
Black Lice—See Aplus.
* The author is indebted for much of the matter on this sub- ject to the various bulletins issued by the Department of Agri- culture and especially to Benjamin W. Douglass, State Ento- mologist of Indiana, not only for assistance frequently ren- dered, but for many photographs as well.
314 YARD AND GARDEN
Canker Worm—tThis insect feeds on the leaves, devouring all save the skeleton and mid- rib and giving to the tree attacked the appear- ance of having suffered from exposure to fire. It is a dull-colored measuring worm, and drops . from the tree by a thread web. Bands of tar or sticky paper may be used with good results, provided the bands are employed from the mid- dle of November to the latter part of April. Spraying with Paris green or arsenate of lead is also effective. | :
Catalpa Sphinx—The so-called Catalpa Sphinx is difficult to control, owing to the char- acter of the plants it feeds on. Neither spray- ing nor hand picking is practical, and the only method of control seems to be thorough eul- tivation under the trees in both late fall and early spring.
Chrysanthemum Lice—See Aphis.
Codlin Moth—lt is the presence of this insect that makes apple growing difficult in this coun- try. The insect hatches from the cocoons in the late spring and at once lays its eggs on the young apples, mostly at the flower end. The trees should be sprayed just after the blossoms fall so as to fill the calyx with the poison, as many of the young larve enter the
INSECTS AND DISEASES 315
fruit at this point. In case of very wet weather it is advisable to give a second spraying about two weeks later and again early in July. “The late spraying is to meet a second brood which appears about that time. The first: Spraying may be of Paris green or other arensic poison, the subsequent ones with poisoned Bordeaux. Cottonwood-leaf Beetle—Striped beetle at- tacking poplars and willows and feeding on leaves and shoots. Apply arsenites. Cutworm—Devours flowers and foliage. Use arsenite spray. Curculio—This is a small beetle that affects cherries, apples and plums—notably the last. The adult beetles have a habit of feeding on the fruit and some of them may be poisoned with a Paris green spray applied just after the blossoms fall. It is also possible to gather the small beetles by jarring them down from the tree and catching them on sheets spread on the _ ground. Especially constructed ‘‘Cureulio catchers’’ are sometimes employed for this pur- pose and are made so that they may be moved from tree to tree. The insects are collected from the sheet and destroyed. Earthworms—Troublesome only in potted soil. Water with brine water.
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Elm Beetle—Yellowish-brown color, one- fourth inch long. Appears in early summer. Feeds on leaves. Spray with Paris green last of May or early in June and again about the middle of June or use arsenites with kerosene emulsion.
Elm Scale—Small, soft scale insect of whitish
color. Appears on underside of branches. Spray with kerosene emulsion the first two weeks in June. — Fall Web-worm—Larva one inch long, hairy. Very destructive, feeding on the leaves of al- most all the trees. Burn the webs where formed. Spray with arsenites.
Four-striped Plant Bug—A_ yellow, black- striped bug, one-fourth inch long. Punctures young leaves and shoots of many plants, espe- cially the dahlia. Hand pick or spray with kerosene emulsion.
Green-fly—sSee Aphis.
Hollyhock Bug—Small bug of greenish color that causes serious injury to hollyhocks. Spray with kerosene emulsion.
Leaf-cutter — Yellowish-green caterpillar about one inch long, black spots. Appears in June and July. Spray with tobacco or ker- osene emulsion.
INSECTS AND DISEASES 317
Lice—See Aplus.
Maple Borer—Dangerous insect enemy be- cause its presence is difficult to detect before serious injury has been done. It is a beetle with yellowish head, body an inch long and wings yellow and black. Appears in July and August. The only sure remedy is to dig the borers out. The trunk may also be painted. with lime wash containing Paris green at- the rate of 5 oz. to the gallon.
Maple Cotton or Woolly Scale—Body of in- sect and mass of eggs are covered with a white, eotton-like substance. Attacks soft maples, also occasionally elms, chestnuts and lindens. Spray with lime-sulphur wash in water or whale-oil soap.
Mealy-bug—White, scale-like insect fre- quently attacking plants under glass. Spray with whale-oil soap or syringe with clear water thrown in a hard stream. Dip small potted plants in water heated to a temperature of 125° Fahrenheit.
Mite—Resembles red-spider but is hghter in eolor. Feeds on under side of leaves, espe- cially of greenhouse plants. Spray with kero- sene emulsion, applying at frequent intervals and, after an hour or two, wash off the spray.
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Also use fir-tree oil which is safer in the hands of the amateur.
Oyster-shell_ Scale—Resembles oyster shell in shape. Attacks willows, lilacs, ash, apples, ete. Same remedies as those prescribed for San José scale.
Red-spider—Small insects difficult to detect
San José Scale Oyster Shell Scale
before serious damage has been done and foliage begins to blanch. Spray with clear water applied with some force, or sulphur. Kerosene emulsion is also effective. The mites do not live ina damp atmosphere. _
Rose Chafer or Bug—Brown beetle, also known as rose-beetle, eating flowers, and ap-
INSECTS AND DISEASES old
pearing in May and June. LHasiest removed by hand picking. Spray with arsenate of lead. Hot water at a temperature of 125° Fahren- heit is also effective. |
Rose-leaf Hopper—A_ small whitish-green
bug, quickly flying or jumping whenever the bushes are jarred. Appears in July. Sucks the foliage. Spray with kerosene emulsion, whale-oil soap or tobacco. Pyrethrum powder blown on the leaves when damp is another remedy. Rose Scale—A white seale incrusting the canes. Appears all the year. Spray with kerosene emulsion in latter part of May and remove badly infested canes.
Rose Slug—A slug-like larva that devours the surface of the leaves, appears in June, July and August. Spray with ammoniacal copper carbonate once every eight or ten days.
San José Scale—Scale insect spreading rap- idly where it gains a foothold. Circular, one- sixteenth of an inch in diameter. MKerosene emulsion, whale-oil soap and lime-sulphur wash (the last in winter only).
Scurfy Scale—While common and widely dis- tributed, this scale has seldom become numer- ous enough to cause any material damage.
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Under favorable conditions it may become de- structive, and wherever it seems to be multi- plying it would be advisable to use the same measures recommended for the San José seale.
Snails—Troublesome usually only in green- houses. Trap them with pieces of turnip; dust lime about the plants.
Fall Web-Worm
Tussock Moth—This troublesome insect 1s usually periodical in its attacks on trees. The moth winters in the egg state, and early in the summer the young larve hatch and at once erawl to the foliage and begin to feed. -The egos are laid by the female moth on the old co- coons, and as these cocoons are frequently sit-
INSECTS AND DISEASES 321
uated on houses and other objects away from the trees the young can be kept from the foliage by banding the trees with some sticky prepara- tion which will keep them from crawling up the trunk. In the winter the cocoons bearing egg masses should be collected and burned so as to destroy all the young that are present. A favorite place for the situation of cocoons is under the overlapping weather-boards on the sides of houses. In summer, after the cater- pillars make their appearance, they can be de- _stroyed by spraying the trees with Paris green solution. [ Douglass. |
Verbena Mite—See Mite.
Willow-worm—Long, black larva feeding on leaves of willow, poplar and elm. Arsenite sprays are remedies.
INSECTICIDES
The following mixtures are referred to in the list of insects:
Arsenate of Lead—Four ounces to five gal- lons of water. This insecticide can be used with comparative safety on plants of delicate foliage.
Paris Green—To ten gallons of water add one ounce of Paris green and two ounces of
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freshly slaked stone lime. Keep well mixed while applying the spray.
London Purple—Use in same manner as Paris green. Kerosene Emulsion—Dissolve one-half pound of soap in one gallon of boiling water. Add two gallons of kerosene and agitate or churn violently for five or ten minutes. Dilute from four to fifteen times before applying with the
spray. Lime-suphur—This should be combined as follows:
MAAN, Pang erecats at's ae ene 50, 5, or 1 pounds Sib pha os seen aoe eee 50, 5, or 1 pounds EUG str le ce get ne eee ae rac ee 50, 5, or 1 pounds Water< 3.02355 cso ake 150, 15, or 3 gallons
Add enough water to the lime to slake it thor- oughly and immediately add the sulphur. Boil for an hour or so with only water enough to keep the mass liquid until the solution becomes a deep amber color. Have the salt dissolved in water and add it to the boiling mass. After it has all been mixed together boil for at least an hour and then add water enough to make up the one hundred and fifty gallons or the lesser quantities, and spray it as soon as possible. It is more efficient when used warm and some of the failures with this wash are undoubtedly due
INSECTS AND DISEASES 323
to the use of stale solutions and careless boil- ing. [ Douglass. |
Pyrethrum—vUse dry, as a powder, or in sol- ution in water, 1 ounce to 3 eallons.
Sulphur—F lowers of sulphur may be ap- pled in connection with other sprays or used in dry form. When used in the former way, add from one to two pounds to every fifty gal- lons of spray. It may be applied also at the rate of one ounce to one gallon of water.
Tobacco—Steep stems or leaves in hot water in covered vessel and dilute three to five times when applying. The tobacco extracts are the best.
Whatle-oil Soap—Dissolve two pounds in one gallon hot water and dilute two to five times before spraying.
PLANT DISEASES
The garden, even when the plantation is small, will very likely be affected sooner or later by some plant-disease. Soil conditions or the introduction of affected stock may account for the appearance of disease, but, to whatever source it may owe its origin, immediate treat- ment is necessary. There is no better fungi- eide than the Bordeaux mixture, but as it
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discolors foliage, flowers and fruit, on all orna- mental plants where discoloration would be ob- jectionable, ammoniacal carbonate of copper should be employed. The following are the chief diseases:
Anthracnose—Seab-like spots of grayish brown color appearing on bases of leaves of carnations. Attacks also beans, watermelon, ete. Apply copper sprays, Bordeaux or sul- phur and water. .
Chrysanthemum Leaf-spot—Dark brown spots first appear on leaves and increase 10 size until the leaf withers. Remove all dis- eased leaves and spray with ammoniacal car- bonate of copper or Bordeaux.
Damping-of'—This is a term used by florists to describe the decay of seedlings or cuttings at a point near the surface of the soil in the seed flat or pot or sand bed. It is believed to be the result of fungi. Permitting fresh air to enter by careful ventilation and preventing erowding of the plantlets, dusting the plants with sulphur and sifting hot clean sand on the surface of the soil are the preventives and rem- edies.
Hollyhock Rust—Attacks hollyhoecks and allied plants, appearing on the leaves in the
INSECTS AND DISEASES 325
Work of the Catalpa Sphinx Moth
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form of light brown patches. Destroy affected plants and apply Bordeaux liberally.
Leaf-blight—This attacks and destroys only portions of leaves, whereas the leaf-rust pro- duces masses of spores on all the surface of the leaves. Sometimes called ‘‘leaf-spot.’’ Attacks roses, maples, cherries, sycamores, ete. Same remedy provided for leaf-rust.
Leaf-rust—Asters are mainly the victims of this disease. The leaves are discolored by orange-colored spots, usually underneath, and the foliage shrivels. Spray with Bordeaux or ammoniacal carbonate of copper.
Maple Leaf-spot—Silver, red and _ striped maples are victims of this disease. The leaves_ become spotted and ugly and the vigor of the tree is impaired. Burn fallen leaves and when the foliage is one-half expanded in spring begin to spray with Bordeaux, and repeat at fre- quent intervals until the disease is checked.
Mildew—White patches appearing on leaves or other parts. The most destructive are downy mildew of the lilac, rose mildew and powdery mildew of the hawthorn, cherry and plum. Spray with Bordeaux or ammoniacal carbonate of copper. Dust on sulphur.
Pansy Rust—Brown or dark spots appear
INSECTS AND DISEASES 327
on the leaves. Apply ammoniacal carbonate of copper or Bordeaux.
Rose Leaf-blight (black spots)—Makes its appearance first in the form of small black spots on the full-grown leaves but rapidly spreads over the entire surface. Spray with Bordeaux or ammoniacal carbonate of copper, applied before leaves unfold.
Rust—Attacks carnations producing gray blisters on the leaves, the spots eventually bursting. Spray with Bordeaux.
Verbena Rust—Whitish, mildew-like disease attacking the leaves and usually killing the plants. Spray with sulphide of potassium every four or five days.
FUNGICIDES
Sulphate of Potassiwm—Use at the rate of one-fourth to one ounce in a gallon of water.
Ammoniacal Carbonate of Copper—Dissolve one ounce of copper carbonate in one-half pint of ammonia diluted with two quarts of water, and dilute to ten gallons of water.
Bordeaux Mixture—In a wooden or earthen vessel containing four to six gallons of water dissolve six pounds of copper sulphate by sus- pending it ina bag made of coarse cloth. When
328 YARD AND GARDEN
dissolved, dilute by adding enough water to make twenty-five gallons. Slake four pounds of lime—making sure it is not ‘‘patent’’ lime— by covering with water and, when solution has ‘‘eooled,’’?’ add enough water to make twenty- five gallons. Mix by pouring the two together.
Sulphur—Procure ‘‘flowers of sulphur.’’ Use either in dry state or at the rate of one ounce in five gallons of water.
CHAPTER XVI
THE INDOOR WINTER WINDOW GARDEN
When autumn frost puts an end to operations in the outdoor garden, it need not by any means deter the enthusiastic gardener from the pur- suit and pleasure of his summer avoeation. If there is a window—even a sunless window where only daylight penetrates—establish an indoor winter garden. In seasons gone by, per- haps the gardener has made the experiment and only failure has resulted, but let him not be discouraged on that account; let the failure be a lesson, not an obstacle, borrow encourage- ment from disaster and refuse to be dismayed by failure. For the fault, in nine cases out of ten, was the gardener’s. The plants selected were not suitable for the exposure afforded by the indoor garden, or else—as is often the case —too late a beginning was made. Bulbs will bloom, vines grow, plants produce their flowers and foliage, but if these results are to be ob- tained, the gardener must choose wisely and early and tend his garden faithfully.
329
330 YARD AND GARDEN
Paris Daisies (Chrysanthemum frutescens)
THE WINDOW GARDEN 331
AN EARLY BEGINNING ADVISABLE
It is essential for him to select carefully, for plants differ radically in the treatment they re- quire. <A plant that requires sun will not thrive without sun; a plant that requires for its de- velopment a cold-house temperature will not prosper in the close, hot, dry atmosphere of a living-room. And it is essential for him to make an early beginning because plants ma- tured under the favorable conditions of hot- house cultivation suffer a fatal check as a rule when transferred from their congenial sur- roundings to the less advantageous environment of a residence window. Frequently, they fail utterly to revive, bear no flowers, and assume a ragged, sickly appearance that robs them of all decorative value.
On the contrary, if the window-gardener makes an early selection of plants, he obtains young stock—which is cheaper—and, if this suffers from the shock of transfer, usually it will recover all of its original strength, accus- tom itself to its new quarters and reward the purchaser for his forethought with luxuriant foliage and well-developed bloom.
02 YARD AND GARDEN
LOCATION OF THE WINTER GARDEN
Begin the indoor garden-making with the se- lection of the window where the plants are to be grown. If it is a window with a south- eastern outlook, the best has been chosen; after this, a window with a south aspect is to be pre- ferred. But, lacking these, an eastern, west- ern or even northern exposure may be selected and, provided plants are obtained that. are adapted to the conditions prevailing, the last may be made as effective in its way as the sun- niest window in the southeastern corner of the house. Set in place the shelves, brackets and stands upon which the pots are to rest, secure them firmly and provide a dish or pan to be filled with water and kept on stove, radiator, or register to maintain a fair degree of atmos- pheric moisture. Procure flower pots of vari- ous sizes—from three inches to eight—avoid- ing the glazed, decorative ware, and a water ean and a supply of soil.
THE SOIL FOR WINDOW GARDENS
The amateur is likely: to find this last his most perplexing problem. What soil, he most frequently inquires, shall be used for this plant?
THE WINDOW GARDEN Doe
what for that? in what compost shall bulbous plants be grown and in what mixture will ferns thrive? If he undertakes an investigation for himself, it is likely that he will emerge from the study all the more perplexed. The reason is that there is a great deal of rubbish talked about soils. If heed were paid to the lucubrations
Root Growth of Narcissus Azalea Indica in Bloom
of many writers on floral topics, it might be sur- mised that a special soil is required for every plant. But, not only is this misleading and in- eorrect, but the plain fact is that four-fifths of the plants cultivated under glass, whether in a greenhouse or in a window garden, would thrive very well in one and the same compost.
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The point to be remembered is that the soil used should be of good quality rather than assem- bled in elaborate mixtures. Lay aside doubt on the subject and obtain the following com- posts: 1. Fibrous loam, three parts
Leaf mold, one part
Well-decayed manure, one part
Clean, sharp sand, one-sixth part
2. Fibrous loam, one part
Peat, two parts
Leaf mold, two parts
Sand, one-fourth part
These two composts might be designated
‘‘oeneral utility’? mixtures. The first will pro- vide a healthful rooting soil for most flowering plants that can be grown by the amateur in an ordinary window garden and the second will provide a suitable mixture for ferns. It is well to lay the foundation carefully by obtaining good loan. Usually it is best and cheapest to buy this of the nearest florist. He makes it— and the amateur may do likewise if he has the space, the time and the desire—by stacking turfs, grass side down, in heaps, interspersing old manure between the layers of sod, and per- mitting the whole to remain at least six months exposed to the weather.
THE WINDOW GARDEN
Su) we) ON
POTTING
Potting is likely to prove another stumbling block in the way of success. But if the be- ginner will bear in mind the following simple rules, he will not go astray:
New pots must be soaked in water two or three hours before using and old pots must be thoroughly cleaned before being refilled.
Provide ample drainage. Place over the hole in the bottom of the pot a piece of broken crock, hollow side downward and, upon this, overlap- ping, place a layer of smaller pieces. The larger and deeper the pot the more liberal should be the quantity of drainage material— a layer of drainage material one inch deep is not too much in an eight-inch pot to insure the health of the plant.
Pot all plants firmly—if the soil is loose, proper watering is impossible.
Repot plants when the mass of roots sur- rounds the ball of earth. Ascertain the root condition by gently emptying the pot of its con- tents. In repotting, shift to a pot two sizes larger—that is, for instance, from a five-inch pot to a seven-inch. A cramped plant will not show its full beauty of foliage and bloom.
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WATERING
It would be a material help to the amateur— and to the professional gardener, too—if it were possible to lay down fixed rules for watering. But, unfortunately, there are no such things as established laws governing the supply of
Ornamental-Foliaged Begonia (Begonia Rex)
moisture. Water when the plants require 1t— this is the only rule that can be cited. And plants require water when the soil is dry enough to become slightly powdery when rubbed _ be- tween the thumb and finger. If, for any reason, water is withheld longer, until, for in- stance, the soil becomes so dry as to crack, set
THE WINDOW GARDEN Sac
the plant, pot and all, in a vessel of water and let it remain there until air bubbles cease to rise.
The window-gardener who comes through a whole winter without finding his plants attacked by some insect pest is lucky, indeed. A ma- jority will find, probably, that their plants are more or less threatened by the aphis (green- fly), mealy-bug, red-spider, scale or thrips. Where they come from is a matter of small moment; the important fact is that they are there and must be removed. If the amateur will employ the methods of extermination de- tailed in the chapter on insect pests, he will rid his garden of them as soon as they put in an appearance.
FERTILIZING |
The beginner, if he bears the various rules in mind, should not find success difficult to at- tain. There may be times, however, when his plants seem sluggish and appeal for extra food. But be sure that fertilizer is required before it is applied. Then, in determining the ferti- lizer to use, avoid patent preparations. Some of them are good and some are absolutely worthless and the amateur is as likely to obtain
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the latter as the former. The best way is to prepare a liquid manure, using, if obtainable, one-half pound of dried sheep manure to two and one-half gallons of water, or a quarter bushel of decayed cow manure to twelve gallons of water. 7
Foliage Plants Suitable for a Window Garden
A chemical fertilizer may be made of the
-
following ingredients :—
Nitrate of soda, one and one-half ounces. Phosphate of soda, one-half ounce. Sulphate of potash, one ounce.
Mix thoroughly and pulverize and, whenever required, dissolve one heaping tablespoonful of the mixture in a gallon of hot water. When the water has cooled, apply a teacupful of the so- lution to a six-inch pot—less or more according
THE WINDOW GARDEN 309
to the size of the pot. Soot from soft coal also makes a good fertilizer. Mix at the rate of one-half pint to ten gallons of water.
All these suggestions are practical if not al- luring and, if we are to have success with an indoor window garden, we must give considera- tion to them as well as to the more esthetic qual- ities which the plants themselvés supply. The latter depend upon the former, for no sickly plant can be beautiful. However, we are done _ with them and can turn now to a discussion of what to raise in the indoor garden and how to raise it.
SELECTION OF PLANTS
Begin with bulbs. These bloom most suc- cessfully for the amateur and, by potting them in quantity and selecting different varieties, a succession of bloom may be maintained in the indoor garden from Christmas to early spring. Narcissi, tulips, hyacinths, crocus, scilla, free- sias—these and many others may be had in bloom to make every week gay with their colors and sweet with their fragrance from mid-De- cember to late March.
Bulbs should be potted early in the autumn. All require practically the same treatment as
340 YARD AND GARDEN
far as the amateur is concerned. Immediately after the potting process has been completed, set the pots in a dark corner of the cellar where the temperature will not rise above forty-five degrees. Lacking such a place, bury the pots in the ground outdoors, allowing six inches of soil or sawdust to rest on top of the pots. On this surface scatter litter, leaves, or straw to prevent freezing, which, while it would do no harm to the bulbs, would make their resurrec- tion somewhat difficult when the time is at hand for bringing the pots into the house.
NARCISSI
With a half-dozen varieties of Narcissus, potted early in September, or even in August, a succession may be maintained which will in- sure the gardener attractive bloom throughout the greater part of the winter. Use five- or six- inch pots and plant from three to five bulbs in each pot. One narcissus of the trumpet variety may be successfully flowered in a four-inch pot, but to bring it to perfection requires more time and attention than the flowering of three or four of the same variety in a six-inch pot. Pro- vide ample drainage and when the bulbs are planted, water carefully and, finally, set them
THE WINDOW GARDEN j41
Paper White Narcissus
342 YARD AND GARDEN
either in the cellar or bury them in the ground. Here they should remain until they have formed a heavy system of roots and a top growth of three or four inches. At this stage they may be brought to the light, but not too suddenly, and submitted to a warmer temperature. Water carefully, using a little weak manure or commercial fertilizer in solution once a week. To maintain the succession, bring the pots to the hght at intervals of a week apart.
For flowers in December and January, ob- tain the Paper White, Golden Spur, Henry Irv- ing, Victoria, Princeps, Sir Watkin, Tortuosus and the double Van Sion; for bloom in January and February, plant the Kmperor, Empress, Horsefieldi, Albicans and Stella superba, and for bloom in February and March depend on the Glory of Leiden, Mme. Plemp, Mrs. Camm, Mme. de Graaff, Barrii conspicuus, poeticus or- natus and orange and sulphur Phcenix. The rules to bear in mind are:
1. Early potting.
2. Allow sufficient time for rooting—twelve weeks for the hardy varieties and at least six weeks for the tender sorts.
3. Careful watering when the buds are de- veloping.
THE WINDOW GARDEN 043
HYACINTHS
Very few window-gardeners would care to be without the hyacinth. Its culture is compara- tively simple and, for the attention it demands, its fragrant blossom is more than ample re- ward. Select sound bulbs, solid and without offsets or protuberances and possessing only | one crown. Apply the same rules to their se- lection as would be applied in choosing a fine onion and obtain the bulbs as early in the au- tumn as possible. Pot up at once—especially the Roman hyacinths—providing plenty of drainage and then treat the bulbs as advised for narcissi. Use five-inch pots, and plant one bulb to a pot, leaving at least a fifth of the bulb showing above the surface of the soil.
Some good single hyacinths for blooming in pots are: |
Red, rose and pink: Robert Steiger, Gen- eral Pelissier, Gertrude, Gigantea, Roi des Belges and Lord Macaulay.
White and blush white: La Grandesse, Gran- deur A Merveille, Mont Blane, Paix de |’Hurope and Baroness van Thuyll.
Dark and light blue: Baron van Thuyll,
o44 YARD AND GARDEN
Charles Dickens, Czar Peter, King of the Blues, Leonidas and Regulus.
Roman hyacinths produce small single white, pink or blue flowers. They bloom profusely, each bulb throwing from three to six spikes, are cheap and are easiest of all the hyacinths to cultivate in the amateur’s hands. The white variety is the earhest and, everything con- sidered, the most satisfactory and beautiful. Plant four or five bulbs in a five-inch pot, al- lowing the crowns to remain uncovered. ‘They ean be had without difficulty for Christmas bloom.
The Dutch hyacinths may also be brought to flower in water. Glass vases, especially de- signed for the purpose, are to be had from deal- ers in seeds and bulbs. Milk bottles, however, may be substituted and the result will be quite as satisfactory. The vessel should be filled with water until the water just reaches the base of the bulb when it has been set in position in the cup_of the vase or in the mouth of the bottle. Drop a lump or two of charcoal in the water to keep it sweet, set the vessels away in a dark closet or in the cellar where they are to remain until heavy growths of roots form. As the water evaporates, add to it from time to time.
THE WINDOW GARDEN
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546 YARD AND GARDEN
TULIPS
Tulips differ very little in point of culture from hyacinths. Instead of planting only one bulb to a four- or five-inch pot, however, from three to six may be set and the bulbs may be planted more deeply—but with never more than half an inch of soil above them. Those tulips earliest to bloom are included in the following list:
Singles: Due Van Thol in varieties of blush, scarlet, rose, yellow and white; Artus, red; Ca- nary Bird, yellow; Royal Standard, crimson and white; Vermilion Brilliant, scarlet; Keiz- erkroon, red and gold, and Pottebakker in va- rieties of white, yellow and scarlet.
Doubles: Golden King, yellow; Gloria So- lis, searlet-and yellow; La Candeur, white, and Imperator Rubrorum, brilliant scarlet.
OTHER BULBS
Bulbs of the Easter lily (Lilium Harrisit) may be grown successfully when afforded the same treatment as narcissil, hyacinths and tu- lips, but a higher temperature than these lat- ter require suit it best when it 1s making root growth. It is not by any means certain to
THE WINDOW GARDEN O47
flower for the amateur and should not be at-
tempted until experience has been gained. F'reesias may be potted, six or seven in a
five-inch pot, and without the preliminary
Freesias in bloom
plunging or season in the cellar, may be started into growth in light at once.
The crocus and snowdrop.and other bulbs of similar size may be planted in pots and treated like hyacinths. Most of them are so
348 YARD AND GARDEN
small that a dozen can be planted in a six-inch pot. They require a longer period for the de- velopment of their flowers than hyacinths and tulips and, on this account, should be depended on for later bloom.
Chinese sacred lilies are favorite bulbs for window gardens. They bear white and yellow flowers, Six or seven to a stem and an inch and a half in diameter. The popular method of eul- tivation is in bowls of water, the bowls being four or five inches deep and the bulbs set in pebbles and weighted down by pebbles. The water should never reach more than half-way up the sides of the bulbs. Set the dish in a dark closet for a week or fortnight to encourage root growth. Often they can be had in bloom in six weeks.
FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS
The bulbs, of course, do not exhaust by any means the plants that may be grown in the in- door winter garden. Most of the plants so grown belong to the groups which florists cul- tivate in glass houses where the temperature is either ‘“‘cool’’ or ‘‘medium.’’ TVhetiormer demands a night temperature of fifty degrees and the latter of sixty degrees. A variation
THE WINDOW GARDEN
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5110 YARD AND GARDEN
of five degrees between these temperatures will cause no injurious effects and a regular increase in daytime of ten or fifteen degrees is considered proper—even higher when the day is bright and sunny.
In selecting plants for the indoor garden, the amateur should first learn what temperature
Geraniums in Bloom Indoors in Mid-Winter
his garden registers at night. If it falls to fifty degrees (cool house temperature) he should select from the following list:
Climbing plants: Senecio or parlor ivy, Eng- lish ivy, lygodium or ‘‘climbing fern’’ and mau- raudia.
Flowering plants: Azaleas, chrysanthemums,
THE WINDOW. GARDEN ool
geraniums, Chinese primroses, Paris daisies or Marguerites, camellias, cinerarias, violets, ey- clamens, ardisias, carnations and sweet alyssum.
Foliage plants: Palms, auracaria, eunony- mus, aucuba and pandanus.
If the temperature is sixty degrees at night, the following list may be used:
Climbing plants: Asparagus in variety, Smi- lax, Cobawa scandens, Madeira vine, Senecio mikanioides, Japanese hop and those also in- cluded in the list for the ‘‘cool’’ temperature.
Flowering plants: Fuchsia, Mahernia odor- ata, lobelia, mesembryanthemum, abutilons, browallias, begonias, petunias, bouvardias, he- hotropes, Chinese hibiscus, swainsonia, gerani- ums, cupheas and Richardias.
Foliage plants: Dracena in variety, palms, Parfugium grande, Cycas revoluta, ferns, arau- carla, pandanus, Ficus elastica, Grevillea ro- busta, Pilea arborea, vineas, tradescantia, Kenilworth ivy, Festuca glauca and Selagin- ella denticulata.
PLANTS FOR SHADED WINDOWS
But, even with these lists before him, the amateur can not make a selection until he pays heed to the amount of sunlight admitted through
02 YARD AND GARDEN
the window where his garden is to be estab- lished. The sunny selection is, of course, the best; here the flowering plants will prosper and bloom. Unfortunately, however, windows available for the purpose do not always face the south and occasionally neighboring build- ings cast a deep shadow over the only exposure the gardener can command. He must select plants, therefore, which will thrive in half shade or whole shade.
In such situations, provided there be good light if no direct sunshine, abutilons will do well and healthy plants of these are scarcely ever without bloom. Begonias also thrive and, in their various forms, present so many at- tractions that a garden composed of these alone would be worth while. Two good varieties are the Bismarck and ricinifolia. Primulas do best in a partly shaded window and a dozen pots of the obconica hybrids would make a most interesting display. Fuchsias, swainsonia, ferns, palms and, in fact, nearly all foliage plants with the exception of the highly colored varieties do well in semi-shaded or sunless win- dows.
Of the foliage division, no more graceful plants are to be found than the palms. They
THE WINDOW GARDEN 303
Tender Hydrangea (Hydrangea hortensis, var, Otaksa)
do4 YARD AND GARDEN
may be grown in a living- or drawing-room with more satisfaction than many other plants of value for their folage alone. They are, how- ‘ever, slow-growing and, on this account, should never be over-potted. Many amateurs invite disaster to their palms by failing to observe
Lace Fern (Cheilanthes gracillima)
this fact. Repotting is unnecessary until the mass of roots fills the soil and even then the shift should be to a pot only one size larger. The best varieties for home culture are the Arecas, Kentias and Latanias.
The pandanus, or ‘‘screw pine,’’ is also well adapted to house culture and is remarkably ornamental. It prospers even when removed
THE WINDOW GARDEN
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306 YARD AND GARDEN
from the window and set in a shaded corner of the room. The general cultural treatment it requires is similar to that prescribed for the palms. Both thrive best in a moist soil but the pots should be liberally provided with drain- age for both are injured when water stands at their roots.
FERNS FOR INDOOR GARDENS
The best ferns for pot culture indoors in win- ter are:
Adiantum cuneatum (maidenhair fern)
Asplenium platyneuron (ebony spleenwort)
Asplenium Trichomanes (maidenhair spleenwort) Cyrtomium faleatum (holly fern)
Lygodium Japonicum (climbing fern)
Nephrolepis exaltata, var. Bostoniensis (Boston fern) Nephrolepis exaltata, var. Scottil (Scott fern)
Nephrolepis exaltata, var. Piersonii (Pierson fern) Nephrolepis cordata, var. compacta (kidney or sword fern)
In the culture of ferns indoors, clean foliage is a first requisite. The fronds should be showered frequently; if no other way is con- venient, remove them to bath-tub or sink and there spray them thoroughly. The water should be of the same temperature as the room in which they are grown. Scale is a trouble- some pest and is best overcome by scraping or rubbing it off with a brush or rag dipped in whale-oil soap-suds or kerosene emulsion. Green aphis is killed by nicotine.
CHAPTER XVII
A CHAPTER OF SPECIALTIES
As a rule, amateurs in gardening no sooner make a beginning in planting before they de-— _ cide that a roseless garden is no garden at all. They can not be greatly blamed for rushing to this conclusion, still they might bear in mind the fact that some of the most effective orna- mental gardening effects of which this country affords examples have been attained without the use of a single rose-bush.
ROSE CULTURE
If, however, the beginner must have roses— and they are not without ornamental value in spite of all that has been said of them to the contrary—let him plant them in a situation that 1s somewhat sheltered from the biting winds of winter, yet open to the sun in summer, free from roots of trees and unshaded by overhang- ing branches. If no situation offers that is without shade, select roses of dark-red color—
aot
308 YARD AND GARDEN
shade does them the least injury. Avoid low ground and if a deep loam is not already on the site chosen, provide it and make sure that it is earth which has never before been used for rose growing. Remember that roses dis- dain wet ground and insist upon having dry feet; make sure accordingly that the site is well drained.
Roses, on the whole, do best when planted in the spring. The hybrid perpetuals and the Ru- gosas may be planted in the autumn with com- parative safety, but even these would do better if set out in the spring, as. soon as the ground can be worked. Avoid exposure of the roots of the plants to sun or wind while plant- ing, and select, if possible, a dry, but cloudy day.
There is much difference of opinion as to the relative value of roses on their own roots or on Manetti or brier roots. By those who favor the latter, it is admitted that many of the sum- mer-growing varieties do best on their own roots and, whenever this is the ease, it is best to select stock which is so grown. In any event, obtain stock that is grown on brier roots rather than upon the roots of the Manetti. It is easy to detect a sucker should one arise from
SPECIALTIES
360 YARD AND GARDEN
the wild stock, for the brier leaf has several leaflets instead of five, which the garden roses possess. When suckers develop—which is not often if the planting has been carefully done— remove them at once at the point of juncture with the root. If this can not be done without great disturbance to the plant, remove the growth at the lowest point possible.
Roses should be protected by a mulch in win- ter and by a lighter mulch in summer. For the latter, use well-rotted cow manure, with the double object in view of enriching the soil and affording protection from the sun. The protec- tion, however, should be first considered and the surplus of the mulch employed for this pur- pose should be removed in the autumn before the winter covering is applied. It is safest to protect all roses in winter, but if any are to be neglected, let them be the Rugosas, Hybrid Per- petuals and Wichuraianas. For the rest— and for these wherever possible—apply a three- inch covering of rough, but old manure. In the more Northern sections, a heavier protection is required and this is not sufficient even where the winters are not very severe for the tender teas. These should be protected by setting bottomless and topless boxes over the plants,
SPECIALTIES 361
or setting around them chicken-wire frames, and filling the enclosures with leaves or straw.
The best fertilizers for roses are decayed cow manure, hog, sheep or chicken manures sparingly applied and old horse manure. Com- mercial fertilizers may be used either alone or to supplement the natural manures. Ground -bone is the best, but nitrate of soda, applied at the rate of about a teaspoonful to a plant, is useful as a stimulant early in the season. It should be followed, however, by more substan- tial fertilizers later on. The Reverend A. Fos- ter-Melliar, an expert rose-grower and writer on the subject, recommends the following espe- cially prepared fertilizer:
superphosphate: of lime: . os... oi. ve es os 12 parts Nitrate. 08. pouty ss 7h.) 2 eiecainie-- ink Ue a 10 parts MiGlpiiahe: Gf Ta ONeSia . 6 co. se sie. ns 3 2 parts Piembpibicrees: Gi Latti@ersc's's, 23 soe e e's ons 2 bo es 8 parts PUPAE Gh ARO) se: cn gos oe a ace ole Oaths 1 part
His advice is to apply this mixture in March at the rate of one-quarter pound to each square yard.
Roses should be pruned in early March. It is an error to prune them, as some persons do, in the autumn. Use the shears on the hardy roses, both the climbers and the bushes, by March fifteenth if the season is of average
362 YARD AND GARDEN
weather. Prune the tender varieties in April, completing the process—in an average season —by the middle of the month. In sections where the winters are longer, however, the operation should be postponed until it is entirely safe to remove the winter mulch. Cut out all dead wood and weak shoots, the latter unspar- ingly, but do not follow blindly the advice to cut liberally where the wood is healthy, strong and vigorous. ‘oo severe pruning is often as injurious as too little. If large blooms are wanted, the pruning should be more severe than where mass effects are desired. Cut the eanes off an inch above an outside bud. The cane which follows will then grow outward and not inward as it would do were an inside bud se- lected and the cut made above it. This sugges- tion will prove of value to those who have had difficulty in training climbers successfully.
The following varieties, made up from Doctor Robert Huey’s excellent list, will be found the most satisfactory:
HARDY PERPETUALS
White Baroness, white Paul Neyron, pink
Frau Karl Druschki, white Caroline d’Arden, pink Mabel Morrison, white Duke of Edinburgh, crimson Margaret Dickson, white Captain Hayward, crimson
Baroness Rothschild, pink General Jacqueminot, crimson Her Majesty, pink Prince Arthur, crimson x
SPECIALTIES 363
TRELLIS ROSES
Gardenia Dorothy Perkins Reine Marie Henriette Crimson Rambler Rosea Setigera Paul’s Carmine Pillar
Queen Alexandra
HYBRID TEAS
Antoine Rivoire Killarney
Alice Grahame Liberty
Caroline Testout, Mme. Abel Chatenay Clara Watson M. Bunel
Ellen Wilmot Souv. de President Carnot
Mr. Leonard Barron, in his numerous arti- cles, has performed a great service for the rose- grower who must raise his flowers in the midst of uncongenial surroundings in a Cis War the gardener who has to contend with smoke from soft coal and even with unsatisfactory conditions of sun, his list, which follows, is ex- cellent:
HYBRID PERPETUALS
Baron de Bonstetten, very dark red
Charles Dickens, rose color, large
Dr. Andry, dark bright red
Dupuy Jamain, brilliant cerise
General Jacqueminot, dark bright red Ulrich Brunner, cherry red
John Hopper, lilac-rose with crimson center La France, silvery pink
Mme. Gabriel Luizet, pink
Magna Charta, bright pink, suffused carmine Paul Neyron, pink — the largest. of all roses
. BOURBONS Boule de Neige, white Mme. S. Cochet, rose, edged white Mme. I. Pereire, rosy carmine Queen of Bedders, deep bright crimson
364 YARD AND GARDEN
TEAS AND NOISETTES Aimee Vibert (N.), white, clusters Reine Marie Henriette (T.), cherry red Gloire de Dijon (T.), yellow Homer (T.), blush rose and salmon, variable
CLIMBERS Crimson Rambler, crimson
R. Wichuraiana, white, single
Also selections of the Rambler-Wichuraiana hybrids
Where roses are wanted only for shrubberies, or where the flowers are of secondary impor- tance, the following will be found to suit the purpose admirably :
Penzance briers Rosa blanda Rosa rugosa Rosa lucida Rosa rubiginosa Rosa nitida
HARDY FERNS
Many ferns, all hardy, demand so little in the way of special soil and situation that they can be grown without difficulty -by the beginner. Planted, for instance, between the foundation walls of a house and the channel worn by water dripping from overhanging eaves, they make a pleasing border, thriving where nothing else would succeed half so well. Here they have what they most enjoy—a cool, damp soil and shade. It must not be understood from this, however, that ferns will continue vigorous in ground that is undrained. On the contrary,
SPECIALTIES
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366 YARD AND GARDEN
they will not do well where the water remains about their roots. But if they are given a damp atmosphere and, preferably, an eastern expo= sure, the majority of the native ferns will do exceedingly well. er
So far as soil is concerned, while good woods earth is best, most of the common ferns are less exacting in this respect than one would im-
Ostrich Ferns in Narrow Border
agine. If the soil is deep and fairly rich, por- ous and cool, ferns may be planted without much fear of the results. The addition of leaf-mold and some rough peat would make the compost all the better, but, with some varieties, this is not necessary.
The following list contains the ferns that are most easily grown and which the beginner will find easily established:
SPECIALTIES 367
Adiantum pedatum, Maiden-hair fern Asplenium Filix-feemina, Lady fern Asplenium platyneuron, Ebony spleenwort Camptosorus rhizophyllus, Walking fern Cheilanthes gracillima, Lace fern Dicksonia punctilobula, Hay-scented or gossamer fern Dryopteris Goldieana, Goldie’s fern Dryopteris marginalis, Evergreen wood fern Dryopteris Noveboracensis, New York fern Dryopteris spinulosa, Shield fern Lygodium palmatum, Climbing, or Hartford fern Onoclea sensibilis, Sensitive fern Onoclea Struthiopteris, Ostrich fern Osmunda cinnamomea, Cinnamon fern
~ Osmunda Claytoniana, Clayton’s fern Osmunda regalis, Royal fern Polypodium vulgare, Common polypody Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas fern Pteris aquilina, Bracken
PEONIES
No flower is richer in beauty than the her- baceous Peony and none, considering wealth of bloom and glorious color, is more easily raised by the amateur. It is one of the hardiest and healthiest plants in cultivation and only ocea- sionally is it attacked by disease. Given a deep, rich soil in which to root, it will thrive for years, increasing, if undisturbed, season af- ter season, and producing its magnificent bloom even when sadly neglected. In color, it covers a wide range and a large plantation of it in flower is unrivaled in beauty. Its foliage, moreover, is attractive throughout the season and forms a background of green against which
368 YARD AND GARDEN
a display of later-blooming flowers is always ef- fective.
Soil for Peonies should contain no fresh ma- nure. All fertilizer put into the earth where they are to be established should be at least a year old and it would be better were this in- corporated with the soil several months before the roots are planted. Dig deeply—two feet is none too much—and work the soil until it is finely pulverized. Look carefully to drainage and, after setting out the roots, mulch thickly with three or four inches of coarse manure, spading this in before growth starts in the fol- lowing spring. Peonies should be planted in September, and if quick effects are wanted, un- divided clumps should be obtained. Single roots, however, are cheaper, and in a season or two, make a very satisfactory display. In or- dering roots, do not be insistent on the number of ‘‘eyes,’’ for often the purchaser in designat- ing that the roots he orders are to show no fewer than three ‘‘eyes,’’ sacrifices vigor and quality for quantity.
Do not expect much bloom the first season - after planting. Peonies take time in establish- ing themselves and not infrequently fail to bloom for two years after they are set out. Or,
SPECIALTIES 369
Double Peony
BYAU YARD AND GARDEN
if of a variety that more quickly accustoms it- self to new surroundings, they may bear bloom the first season, but these will never be a fair sample of what the plant can do. Double Peo- nies, under such circumstances, may bear only single flowers, and this fact sometimes leads to disappointment on the part of the purchaser who fancies that the nurseryman has not dealt fairly by him. Before he voices his suspicion, it would be better were he to take into consid- eration the short time the plant has been in his garden and postpone his complaint until the following season when, in all likelihood, the flowers will be as double as they were repre- sented to be.
Some Peonies, however, are not profuse bloomers. Constitutionally they are not and from such plants large quantities of bloom will never be obtained. It is also a fact that some Peonies are prolific bloomers in some sections of the country and in other sections bloom very little. It is impossible, of course, to say with any degree of certainty what varieties perform in this unsatisfactory manner, but Charle- magne, for instance, blooms strongly in Roch- ester, New York, and weakly in New England. Giganthea does well in the Kast, but in the West
SPECIALTIES ayel
bears few flowers. It is true, too, that both quality and quantity of bloom vary from season to season, so far as can be determined, for no apparent reason. Weather conditions may be entirely favorable and still the flowers be lim- ited and of inferior quality while, another year,
Single Peonies
weather conditions may be unfavorable and the flowers will be large and numerous.
A few varieties are especially sensitive; they can not endure storms or frosts of early spring and usually the only return they make for nurs- ing and coddling is to produce buds that blight before they expand. This is especially true of many varieties imported from England. They
312 YARD AND GARDEN
can not, it seems, adapt themselves to the cli- matie conditions of their new home.
There is little pleasure in fostering one of these indolent or sensitive varieties and the purchaser should exercise care in his selection to make sure that he obtains only the hardiest and most vigorous and those that are surest
Flower of the Tree Peony
and most profuse in bloom. The following list will assist the beginner in the matter of selec- tion, but it must be understood that Peony no- menclature is so sadly mixed at this time that very little dependence can be placed upon the names:
SPECIALTIES O10
Achille, delicate pink
Agida, rosy violet
Alexander Dumas, brilliant pink
Amazone, creamy white, yellowish center
Andre Laures, violet red
Auguste Lemonier, deep, dark red
Baroness Schroeder, delicate pink, touched with gold in center
Bell Hough, light purplish crimson
Bertha, bright crimson
Belle Chatelaine, delicate pink, carmine center
Cameron, deep purplish red
Carnea Flora Plena, delicate pink, carniine center
Charles Verdier, carmine
Comte de Osmont, fine white
Defiance, bright crimson
Duchesse de Nemours, clear pink, center of lilac tints
Duchesse d’Orleans, deep pink
Edouard Andre, crimson, with yellow stamens
Excelsior, dark crimson
Festiva Maxima, the best white, a superb flower
Floral Treasure, pink, fragrant, one of the best and hardiest of flowers
Flambeau, cherry petals with white tips, tufted bloom
General Grant, red
Grandiflora Carnea Plena, clear, light pink, shaded lilae
Golden Harvest, outer petals pink, inner golden, a splendid flower
Golden Wedding, pure yellow —the only pure yellow
Humei, pink
La Coquette, bright rose
La Fiance, creamy white, yellowish center
L’Esperence, white, touched with pink
Marie Lemoine, sulphur white, shaded pink
Nigra, dark crimson
Pomponia, pinkish white
Queen Victoria, white
Richardson’s Rubra Superba, splendid crimson
Sarah Bernhardt, pink, salmon center
The Nymph, fragrant, curious flower, white, tipped with carmine
Victoria Tricolor, pink, sulphur and flesh
Zoe Calot, soft. pink
~]
ole YARD AND GARDEN
FOR CUT FLOWERS
Many gardeners desire varieties of Peonies that serve not only a decorative purpose, but which are also useful as cut flowers. The fol- lowing list contains the best for this dual pur- pose:
White: Festiva Maxima, Queen Victoria, M. Dupont, Couronne d’Or, Madame Crousse, La Tulipe, Madame de Verneville, Marie Lemoine, Duchesse de Nemours. ;
Pink: Beauté Francaise, Delicatissima, Liv- ingstone, Princess Beatrice, M. Jules Elie, Edu- lis Superba, Alexandrina.
Red: Adolph Rosseau, Souvenir de ]’Exposi- tion Universelle, Modeste Guerin, Delachei, Marechal de MacMahon, M. Krelage, Richard- son’s Rubra Superba, Felix Crousse.
PERENNIAL PHLOX
A yard or garden, large or small, in which many Phloxes are grown is always a place gay with flowers from mid-June to the autumn days of frost. Like the peony, the Phlox is easily erown, rewarding the gardener with a wealth of bloom altogether out of proportion to the few demands it makes upon his time and labor.
SPECIALTIES
Hardy Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
316 YARD AND GARDEN
The suffruticosa group is the first to bloom, but it is the decussata (paniculata) group, later in flowering, that produces the brightest and clearest blossoms. Both divisions will grow either in sun or shade, but they prefer, on the whole, a situation in partial shade. They do best in a deep, rich loam, enriched with well- rotted cow manure, and spaded to a depth of at least two feet.
The plants should be set out so that the crown is about two inches below the surface of the soil and the earth must be well firmed about the roots. The best season for planting is from the first of October to the last of the month, but spring planting is fairly successful. After planting, mulch before the ground freezes deeply with a covering of leaves, straw or lit- ter to a depth of four inches. If the plants are set out in spring, a lighter mulch should be ap- plied to shade the roots from the sun. —
If a profusion of bloom is wanted, pinch back the stalks of the taller varieties when they have attained a height of twelve or fifteen inches and the dwarf sorts when they have attained half that height. They will then break into two or four secondary stalks and upon these will be borne the clusters of bloom. The Phlox is un-
SPECIALTIES Old
commonly free from insect enemies and diseases, though occasionally it is attacked by red-spider or cut-worms. Spraying with a hard stream of clear water will kill the former and wood ashes sprinkled lightly about the roots will control the latter.
The following list* includes the best both in point of size and color of bloom and in hardi- ness and vigor of plant:
| “ass a nes : * ‘i 4 Ee ’
wt Ne
}
Wild Sweet William (Phlox divaricata)
PHLOX SUFFRUTICOSA Dr. Hornby, white, lilac tinted Indian Chief, magenta, crimson eye Lady Musgrove, white, striped magenta Leaman, rosy lilac Ringleader, light magenta with red eye Snowdon, pure white
* Little dependence can be placed in Phlox nomenclature.
318 YARD AND GARDEN
DWARF SPECIES Ameena, pinkish purple, very early and very dwarf Divaricata, pinkish blue, very early Reptans, purplish violet Stellaria, whitish blue Subulata, pinkish purple, blooms in April and May Subulata, var. Alba, white
PHLOX PANICULATA
Amazone, the finest white
Andreas Hoffer, pure white
Bouquet de Fleur s, white with deep rose eye Bridesmaid, white, with a large crimson eye Champs- Elysees, rich purplish | crimson
Coquelicot, scarlet, with dark carmine eye
Cross of Honor, lilae, margined with white
Eclaireur, purplish crimson, with bright shades Esclarmonde, lilac, mottled with white, with a deep rose eye Eugene Danzanvillier, lilac, with white edge and center Jeanne d’Arc, white, large and late-flowering
Jocelyn, salmon
Jules Finger, white with red eye
La Fondre, purple-crimson, with carmine center
La Vogue, rosy mauve, with red eye
Lothair, salmon, with crimson eye
Marquis de St. Paul, rosy salmon, with crimson eye M. Gladstone, soft rose, with crimson eye
Ornament, rosy magenta, with crimson eye
Pantheon, deep rosy salmon *
P. Bonnetain, rose, overlaid with salmon
Prof. Schliemann, lilac-rose, with carmine eye
THE END
APPENDIX
FLOWERS OF HARDY BULBS FROM FROST TO FROST
The following list is intended to suggest what hardy bulbs to plant in order to insure a suc- cession of flowers of this class outdoors prac- tically all the year round:
JANUARY, FEBRUARY AND MARCH
2D , a0 Popular Name _ Botanical Name (~-S Color geal og uggestions ae Christmas rose Helleborus niger 6 White Light soil, half shade, sheltered situation Winter aconite Eranthis hyemalis 6 Yellow’ Rich, well-drained soil, partial shade ee ee ee SO Siberian scilla Scilla Sibirica 6 Blue Light sandy but rich soil, sun Purple scilla Scilla bifolia 6 Purple Light, rich soil, sun Glory-of-the-snow Chionodoxa 8 Blue Luciliz ; : Fair soil, well Glory-of-the-snow Chionodoxa 8 Dark drained, sun Sardensis blue nnn nn LE aa Ss. ee Crocus Crocus vernus 5 § White) ~ llilac Imperial crocus Crocus Imperiati 5 Lilac et soil, ‘rich’ and Scotch crocus Crocus biflorus 5 he well drained, sun ilac Cloth-of-gold Crocus Susianus 5 Yellow crocus Snowdrop Galanthus nivalis 4 White
ee ee ee ee ett soil and par- Giant Snowdrop Galanthus Elwesii 8 White } tial shade
ol9
380 YARD AND GARDEN
> tas] bs) an Is
Color Cultural
Popular Name _ LJBotanical Name Suggestions
Height (inches)
Anemone blanda 6 Blue Windflower Anemone Apen- 7 Blue Rich soil and sun nina Trumpet nar- Narcissus White- cissus Pseudo-Narcis- 15 Yellow sus k : Rich, deep soil — Cup narcissus Narcissus incom- 15 W hite- sun or half-shade parabilis yellow Jonquil Narcissus 12 Yellow - Jonquilla a Spring snowflake Leucojum i White Light soil, rich, and vernum sun SS Crown imperial Fritillaria im- Yellow- ) Moist situation, ; perialis 4 = “red some shade, rich soil LS pce a ————————————————————— Grape hyacinth Muscari 6 Purple- Sunny situation, botryoides _ blue fair soil rd OE EE ——————E— Tulip Tulip suaveolens 12 Various Sunny situation,
light, fair soil sa etn we
Hyacinth Hyacinthus 12 Fairly rich soil, orientalis sun MAY Poet’s narcissus Narcissus poet- 16 White eo or shade, rich icus _ deep: sol ae soil 10 Blue, Half Fialf. shade eae fair Bluebell Scilla festalis white, soil ‘* pink See a Garden anemone Anemone hor- 10 Purple, ) Some shade, light, tensis white, rich soil red.
Poppy anemone Anemone coro- 10 ee t Some shade, light,
a rich soil Hine
Wake Robin Trillium grandi- 12 White pee sun, damp,
florum rich soil May-flowering Tulipa Gesneriana 24 Various Sun, rich, light soil
tulip
Ns i EE ——————e——— Star-of-Bethlehem Ornithogalum 9 White Sun or shade, fair
umbellatum soil
APPENDIX 381
JUNE = ¥en 0 : : > 7 : t ODS Cultural Popular Name _ Botanical Name aa Color Gueestaits as Spanish iris Iris Xiphium 20 White, Light, rich soil and blue, sun yellow English iris Iris xiphioides 24 Purple- Light, rich soil and white sun SOR TT. ; ; Madonna lily Lilium candidum 30 White Light, well drained
soil, little shade
= ; ; 5 Hanson’s lily Lilium Hansoni 30 Orange Light, well drained soil, little shade
JULY Erect lily Lilium elegans 18 Orange- Light, rich, well-
' red drained soil, sun ee ee a DE Canada lily Lilium Canadense36 Yellow- Moist, leaf mould,
red partial shade
ee
Purple trumpet Lilium Brownii 36 Purple- Light soil, sheltered
lily white sunny situation White trumpet Lilium longi- 26 White Light soil, sun lily florum AUGUST oe ee er eee ee eee Summer hyacinth Galtonia candi- 30 White Light but deep soil cans rich; sun Turk’s Lily Lilium superbum 50 Red Deep soil, light but 2 orange rich; sun Speciosum lily Lilium speciosum 36 White, Deep soil, light but pink. rich; partial shade Henry’s lily Lilium Henryi 48 Red, Deep soil, light but yellow rich; sun Golden-banded Pb 40 White Deep soil, light but lily Lilium auratum and gold rich; sun
SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER
Autumn crocus Colchicum 5 White, Light rich loam, autumnale pink, sun purple. Checkered crocus Colchicum 5 Purple Light, rich loam, ‘Parkinson1 sun Yellow starflower Sternbergia lutea 5 Yellow Rich, heavy soil,
sun
382 YARD AND GARDEN
PLANTING TABLE OF THE BEST AND EASIEST GROWN
Height Popular Name Botanical Name Color (inches) Chionodoxa Luciliz Sky blue 8 Glory-of-the-snow Chionodoxa Sardensis Deep blue 8 Autumn crocus Colchicum autumnale White, pink purple Checkered crocus Colchicum Parkinsoni Purple 5 Crocus biflorus Light lilac 5 Crocus Imperati Lilac 5 Crocus Crocus Meesiacus Yellow 5 Crocus Susianus Golden 5 Crocus vernus White, purple, 5 lilac Winter aconite Eranthis hyemalis Yellow 6 Crown imperial Fritillaria Imperialis Red, yellow 24 Guinea-hen-flower Fritillaria Meleagris Purple, green 18 Scarlet fritillary Fritillaria recurva Scariet 18 Giant snowdrop Galanthus Elwesii White 8 Snowdrop Galanthus nivalis White ee Christmas rose Helleborus niger White 6 Hyacinth Hyacinthus orientalis Various 12 Spanish iris Iris Xiphium White, blue 20 yellow English iris Iris xiphioides Purple-white 14
Golden-banded Lilium auratum White and gold 40 lily Purple trumpet Lilium Brownii Purple-white 36
lily
APPENDIX 38
CO
HARDY BULBOUS PLANTS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING
Blooming How deep to How far
season Plant apart Notes and Cultural Suggestions (inches) (inches)
March 3 3 Plant in well drained soil — replant woe 3 3 every three or four years September 3 6 Plant in masses.
September ~ 3 6 Prefers light, rich soil
March 3 3 There is a white and very early va-
riety
March 3 3 Flowers with snowdrops
March 3 3 Good for naturalizing in grass
March 3 3 Very early species, excellent form March 3 3 Common crocus — showy and _per-
manent
March 1 4 Does best in partial shade
April 5 8 Set bulb on side
April 3 5 Several distinct forms are to be had May 3 6 Distinct from other fritillaries ey 2 3 Later in period of bloom than com- March mon variety
February 2 3 Earliest spring flowers SS ag 4 12 Impatient of disturbance when es- January tablished
April 5 8 Named varieties are best
June 4 4 Mulch the bed in winter
June 4 4 Same treatment as Spanish
August 8 18 Extremely showy but short-lived.
July 8 18 Excellent in border,
354 YARD AND GARDEN
PLANTING TABLE OF THE BEST AND EASIEST GROWN
Popular Name Botanical Name Color Gace Madonna lily Lilium candidum White 30 Canada lily Lilium Canadense Golden red 36 Orange lily Lilium croceum Orange red 36 Erect lily Lilium elegans Orange red 18 Hanson’s lily Lilium Hansoni Orange 30 Henry’s lily Lilium Henryi Red, yellow 48 White trumpet lily Lilium longiflorum White 26 Speciosum lily Lilium speciosum White, pink 36 Turk’s cap lily Lilium superbum Red, orange 50 Tiger lily Lilium tigrinum Red, purple 48
spots Star flower Milla (Triteleia) uniflora Blue 8 Grape hyacinth Muscari botryoides White, blue 6 Hoop-petticoat Narcissus Bulbocodium Light yellow ae narcissus Cup narcissus Narcissus ‘incomparabilis White, yellow 15 Jonquil Narcissus Jonquilla Yellow 12 Poet’s narcissus Narcissus poeticus White, crim- 14 5 son eye Trumpet narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus White-yellow 15 Star-of-Bethlehem Ornithogalum umbellatum White 9 Two-leaved scilla Scilla bifolia White, purple 6 Beliowered scilla -Sdilla-Hispanica’ «Bluey “paeple saan Siberian scilla Scilla Sibirica a White, blue 6 Wake Robin. .-. wEriliitmograndiforum . White. [ol
et
APPENDIX 085
HARDY BULBOUS PLANTS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING
Blooming How deep to How far season Plant apart Notes and Cultural Suggestions (inches) (inches)
June 8 12 Plant by September 15
July 6 12 Effective when massed
July 8 18 Easily grown
‘July 8 12 Among the best for garden culti- vation
June 6 15 Most effective in clumps
August 8 18 Splendid, unconventional variety
July 6 ilies Pretty in border
August 8 18 Two varieties — rubrum, pink; album, white
August 6 18 Useful in mixed border
August 8 18 Does well in borders
April-May 3 3 Plant in sheltered situations y
April 3 4 Splendid when naturalized
April-May 4 6 Good when massed
April-May 5 6 Increases rapidly
April 4 6 Fragrant
April-May 5 6 Excellent for naturalizing — fra- grant
eee ek 5 May fons Gre esowei.
May 4 6 Excellent for early summer bloom
March-April 3 4 Very hardy and early
Merten eh eG Seeccal. varieties all gosd.
Meret Gee. 4 Ratter when Glishdy protected >
Later to bloom than S. bifolia
May 4 6 One of the best wild flowers April-May 5 6 May-flowering are best for plant-
ing except in formal beds
386 YARD AND GARDEN
PLANTING LIST OF THE BEST
Popular Name. Botanical Name Color Height (inches) Ageratum Ageratum conyzoides Blue white 4 to 10 Alyssum, sweet. Alyssum maritimum White 6 Aster, China Callistephus Chinensis Various 18 Baby’s breath, Gypsophila muralis White 24 annual Balloon vine Cardiospermum Halica- White 1LOCEt. cabum Balsam Impatiens Balsamina White, pink red, 18 yellow Bartonia Mentzelia Lindleyi Yellow 12 tod Candytuft Iberis amara Red, white — 6 Castor bean Ricinus communis ——— 5 to 8 ft. Catchfly Silene Armeria, S. pen- Red, white 12 to 18 dula 1 Chrysanthemum, Chrysanthemum corona- White, yellow 12 to 24 annual rium Clarkia Clarkia elegans ite rose, pur- 18 ple Cup and saucer Cobcea scandens Purplish white beh vine Cockscomb Celosia Red, white, yellow 6 to 12 purple wth Rn ie i ee UN a OS i Coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria Yellow, brown 12 STROSS a eee a Sr _Cornflower Centaurea Cyanus White, blue, rose 12 ne Sie oy ae Oe a ee eee Cosmos Cosmos bipinnatus White, pink, red 2% to 6 ft. a a Ee eee Cypress vine Tpomcea Quamoclit Scarlet a pahte EE Ee ee eee Daisy, Swan Brachycome iberidifolia White, blue 12 to 14 River
Everlasting Xeranthemum annuum Purple
APPENDIX 387
ANNUALS FOR ALL PURPOSES
Distance Depth apart when Season of Bloom When to Sow to Sow. transplanted Early Late Indoors Outdoors (Inches) or thinned (inches) June July to Oct. March May i 5 July Aug. to Sept. March April yy 8 July Sept. March May yy 18 June July to Oct. March May Xy 12 Aug. ——— May %4 18 June July to Sept. April May y 18 June July to Sept. March May A 12 June to Sept. — ; April yy 8 July Grown for ornamental April May 2 36 foliage eee ae 2 ee ee ee June July and Aug, April May ._% 8 ne SS ee oe es ts July Aug. to Oct. April May a 18 Sree Ee a ee eS ee ee June July to Oct. April ; May yy 8 June ee ee Se a ee July Aug. to Oct. March May y 18 ce a ae i ie Oe va we ee ey ee June July to Oct. April May yy 8 ee ee =e ee ee ee ee ee ee June Aug. to Nov. March May 4 12 Seen ne —— June a April ly 8 coer a a ee a ee August September April May 4 30 Se ee June July April May lg 10
June July to Oct. March May y, 15
Aug. and Sept. May yy 15
388 YARD AND GARDEN
PLANTING LIST OF THE Siler
Popular Name - Botanical Name Color Height , (inches) Globe amaranth Gomphrena globosa Red 12 to 18 Godetia (Enothera amecena, Red, white 12 to 18 dE. Whitneyi Gourd Cucurbita Fruit 1S Ets Hop, Japanese Humulus Japonicus Foliage plant 10 to 20 ft. Hyacinth bean Dolichos Lablab White, purple 10 to 20 ft. Ice plant Mesembryanthemum White trailing vine crystallinum Immortelles Helichrysum bracteatum Yellow, orange 12 to 24 Larkspur, annual Delphinium Ajacis Red, white, blue 15 to 24 Love-lies-bleeding Amarantus caudatus Red 30 Momeerd Tagetes patula, T. erecta Orange, yellow 12 to 24 Mignonette Reseda odorata Greenish white 12 Moon-flower Ipomcea Bona-nox White 15 to SOvEt: Morning-glory Ipomcea purpurea Various ATO 2 barbs
(climbing) and T. minus (dwarf) i ee ee ee nee ae Nemophila Nemophila insignis and Blue, white 12 to 30 N. Menziesii
Palafoxia Polypteris Hookeriana Red 12 to 36 ee ee eee Pansy Viola tricolor Various 6 to 12
Le etree) Ge a ee ee Petunia Petunia hybrida White, magenta 12 to 24
wie eo ee ee ed Phlox, annual Phlox Drummondii Various 6 to 12
Pink, Chinese Dianthus Chinensis White and various 12
APPENDIX 389
ANNUALS FOR ALL PURPOSES
Distance ; Depth apart when Season of Bloom When to Sow to Sow transplanted Early Late Indoors Outdoors (Inches) or thinned (inches) a Aug. and Sept. ——— May ly 15 a aaa eee June July to Oct. March May \% 18 April a eS Mag 1 24 erties ee April May yy 30 ey — July to Oct. a May 2 18 hhh. O00 0O08006cCc.0 July Aug. and Sept. April — May % 12 August —— May yy 12 we a a Ss eee eee June July to Sept. April May WA 10 June July April May A 18 June July to Oct. February April 7 March May \Yy 12 May and June July to Oct. March April % 10 May July Aug. and Sept. March May yy 24 Sa a June July to Oct. Marchand May yy 18 April : a ee June July and Aug. April May y% 6 June July to Oct. Marchand May 1 10 April June July to Oct. March Apriland % 6 May ee a ee — —— July to Oct. — May yy 18 May and June Sept. to Oct. Jan. and June to 1% 6 Feb. August a ee ee a ee ee re ee ea a May July to Oct. April May Sow on 12 Surface June July to Oct. Feb. Apriland 4% ae Sale May May July to Sept. Feb. and April and ds 6
March May
390 YARD AND GARDEN
PLANTING LIST OF THE BEST
Popular Name Botanical Name Color Height ip (inches) Poppy Papaver Various 6 to 30 Portulaca Portulaca grandiflora White, red 6 to 12 Pot Marigold Calendula officinalis Orange, yellow 12 to 24 Rhodanthe Helipterum Maneglesii Purple 18 to 24 Rose moss Lu Portulaca Salpiglossis Salpiglossis sinuata White, yellow, 20 red Stock, ten-weeks Matthiola incana, var. Various 18 annua. Sweet pea Lathyrus odoratus Various 4 to 8 ft. Sweet Sultan Centaurea moschata White, yellow, 24 purple Tarweed Madia elegans Yellow 12 to 24 Wish-bone flower Torenia Fournieri Yellow 12 to 20
Zinnia Zinnia elegans Various 12 to 36
APPENDIX O91
ANNUALS FOR ALL EURPOSES
Distance Depth apart when to Sow transplanted
Season of Bloom When to Sow
Early Late Indoors Outdoors (inches) or thinned (Inches) June to Aug. —-—— March, Ve 12 April and May June July to Oct. Marchand May Sow on 8 April Surface June July to Oct. Marchand May 3 12 April ee Aug. and Sept. ———— May ly 18 June July to Oct. April May i 6 June July and Aug. March May A 12 July to Oct. —_— March to 3 to 4 4 June June July and Aug. Marchand May WA 12 April July to Oct. May 4 12 es July to Oct. March and ———-— Y% 12 April —_———— June to Oct. aa May Al 12
392 YARD AND GARDEN
[The designs presented here are intended to assist the beginner. While their real value lies in their suggestions, all are practical and, if conditions admit of their use, can be followed in planting city yards of similar shape and size. Only those plants that are haidiest and easiest raised are advised.]
DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING BORDER-PLANTING
Mixed Border of Shrubs and Hardy Herbaceous Plants, Arranged According to Height, Color of Bloom and Season of
Flowering: —
No. on Quantity Name
diagram required a 18 Aster alpinus 2 20 Campanula Carpatica 3 20 Alyssum saxatile, var. compactum 4 10 Achillea Ptarmica, var. “‘ The Pearl” 5 10 Campanula latifolia, var. macrantha 6 6 Spirea Van Houtter 7 4 Forsythia suspensa, var. Fortunei 8 6 Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora 9 2 Syringa vulgaris (lilac) 10 5 Diervilla hybrida, var. Eva Rathke iil 4 Yucca filamentosa 12 10 Iris levigata (Kempfert) 13 10 Iris Germanica 14 15 Hypericum Moserianum 15 20 Statice latifolia 16 12 Pe@onies 17 20 Phlox paniculata 18 12 Erigeron speciosus 19 24 Platycodon grandifiorum 20 12 Aruncus (Spirea) astiboides 2 12 Spirea Aruncus (Aruncus sylvester) = 10 Althea rosea ge 18 Boltonia latisquama a4 5 Bocconia cordata
25 6 Delphinium hybridum
oot
Straight Border of
YARD AND GARDEN
BORDER OF PERENNIALS
the Best and MHardiest Herbaceous
Perennials,
Arranged to Insure Succession of Bloom:—
Name
No. on Season diagram of bloom a May, June, July 2 May, June 3 June, July 4 July, Aug., Sept., Oct. 5 Aug., Sept. 6 July, Aug. if sept. Oct. Soe. une dials: 9 July Auge Septe, Oct. 10 June, July afi Aug., Sept. il June, July 13 June, July 14 July, Aug. 15 June, July 16 June, July Aug., Sept. Wy April, May 18 May, June 19 July, Aug., Sept. 20 May, June, July Dil July, Aug., Sept. 22 July, Aug., Sept. 23 May, June 24 June, July 25 May, June, July 26 May, June, July, Aug. Pa June, July 28 June, July, Aug. 29 uly, Aug. 30 June, July ol April, May 32 July, Aug., Sept. SF June, July 34 June, July, Aug., ept., GE 35 May, June, July, ug. 36 May, June 37 July, Aug., Sept.
Iris cristata Troliius Europeus Iris plicata
Boltonia latisquama Boltonia asteroides Helianthus mollis Aster Tataricus
Penstemon levigatus,
Phlox paniculata
var.
Digitalis
Ulmaria (Spirea) Filipendula
Helianthus rigidus, Campanula latifolia,
var.
var.
Campanula persicifolia
Bocconia cordata Yucca filamentosa
Centaurea macrocephala
Phlox subulata Armeria maritima
Miss Mellish macrantha
Centaurea montana, var. alba
Iris Germanica Silphium laciniatum Rudbeckia laciniata Baptisia australis
Iris levigata (Kempferi)
Aquilegia cerulea
Dianthus plumarius Scabiosa Caucasica
Campanula Carpatica Gypsophila paniculata
Delphinium Trollius Asiaticus Statice latifolia
hybridum
Campanula glomerata
Achillea Ptarmica,
Aquilegia chrysanth Peonia Aconitum Napellus
var.
a
“The Pearl
®
5396
No. on diagram
STROM MORON WWE
YARD AND GARDEN
DESIGN FOR CITY YARD FRONTING EAST
Quantity required
1
(J) SBmOWeHHWwWOmnwwswwr.
Name
Picea pungens, var. glauca Clematis Jackmani
Kalmia latifolia
Funka subcordata, var. grandiflora Lonicera Halliana
Wistaria Chinensis
Alyssum saxatile, var. compactum Paonia
Spirea Van Houttei
Syringa vulgaris (lilac)
Spirea Bumalda, var. Anthony Waterer Berberis (Mahonia)
Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandifiora Abies concolor
Ligustrum ovalifolium, or var. Regelianum Myosotis palustris
Phlox subulata
Phlox paniculata
Iris pumila
Dianthus barbatus
Iris Germanica
Hardy ferns
Dianthus plumarius
Lychnis Viscaria, var. splendens Thalictrum aquilegifolium Delphinium formosum
Iris levigata (Kempferi) Gypsophila paniculata
Armeria maritima
Physostegia Virginiana
Platycodon grandiflorum
Stokesia cyanea
Centaurea montana
Hardy ferns
Aquilegia cerulea
Campanula Carpatica
Campanula persicifolia
Hardy ferns
597
XxX
APPENDI
398 YARD AND GARDEN
DESIGN FOR CITY CORNER YARD
No. on Number diagram required 1 75 2 1 3 2 4 4 5 50 6 2 a 12 8 24 9 12 10 18 11 14 12 20 13 12 14 12 15 12 16 12 aly, 12 18 24 19 15 20 6 21 100 22 9 23 att 24 2 25 3 26 1 27 =
Name
Coreopsis lanceolata
Wistaria Chinensis
Lonicera Halliana
Rose, Crimson Rambler Hemerocallis fulva -
Picea pungens, var. glauca
Phlox paniculata
Aconitum autumnale
Iris levigata (Kempferi) Delphinium hybridum
German iris
Althea rosea, single
Peonia
Bocconia cordata
Trollius Europeus
Boltonia asteroides
Campanula latifolia, var. macrantha Rudbeckia, Golden Glow
Statice latifolia
Yucca filamentosa
Berberis Thunbergii
Maples
(Thin when crowding begins) Syringa vulgaris (lilac)
Spirea Van Houttei
Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora Forsythia suspensa, var. Fortunei Hardy ferns
(Space is left at the point A to allow entrance to the lawn.)
APPENDIX
400
No. on diagram
YARD AND GARDEN
DESIGN FOR CITY YARD FRONTING WEST
Quantity required
Name of plant
Picea pungens, var. glauca Pseudotsuga Douglasii
Spirea Van Houtter
Kalmia_ latifolia
Berberis (Mahonia) Aquifolium Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora Iris Germanica
Clematis paniculata
Lonicera Halliana
Hardy ferns
Armeria maritima
Ulmaria (Spirea) Filipendula Alyssum saxatile
Sedum spectabile
Thalictrum aquilegifolium
Dianthus barbatus
Funkia subcordata, var. grandiflora Helenium autumnale, var. superbum Statice latifolia
Achillea Ptarmica, var. ‘‘ The Pearl” Althea rosea
Bocconia cordata
Delphinium formosum
Iris levigata (Kempferi) Physostegia Virginiana
Peonia
Phlox paniculata
Hibiscus Moscheutos, var. Crimson Eve Campanula persicifolia
Veronica longifolia, var. subsessilis Berberis Thunbergti
Azalea amena
Funkia cerulea
Iris. pumila
Hardy ferns
APPENDIX
See
402 YARD AND GARDEN
DESIGN COMBINING ORNAMENT AND UTILITY
No. on Quantity Name diagram required i 200 Ligustrum ovalifolium 3 Pe@onia 30 Phlox paniculata 3 4 Rose; Dorothy Perkins 4 6 Clematis paniculata 5 1 Lenicera, var. Halliana 6 3 Grape if Se Currants, blackberries or raspberries 8 =f Bed of annuals 9 2 Dwarf fruit trees
403
APPENDIX
ye ol PES ped he
INDEX
INDEX
Abutilon, 133, 351 Acer platanoides, 289 saccharinum, 289
saccharum, 289 Achillea, illus. 139 Ptarmica, var. “ The Pearl,” 162 Aconitum autumnale, Fischeri, 164 Napellus, illus. 161 Actinidia arguta, 95 Adiantum cuneatum, 356 Adonis vernalis, 159 Aisculus Hippocastanum, 289 Agapanthus, 235 Ailanthus glandulosa, 289 Akebia quinata, 95 Alstroemeria, 235 Althea rosea, 162 Althea, shrubby, 264 Alyssum saxatile, 159 (see Sweet alyssum) Amelanchier, 264 Ampelopsis, illus. 89 quinquefolia, 87 Veitch, 94 Andromeda _ floribunda, 263 Anemone Japonica, 166 Pennsylwanica, 169 Annuals, 99 Beds for, 108 Cultivation indoors, 105 General classification of, 100 Half-hardy, 101 Hardy, 101, 114
166
256,
Location of beds for, 114 Planting indoors, 102 Planting outdoors, 113, 115 Selection of varieties of, 119 Soil for, 110 Sowing in flats, 103 Support for, 116 Tender, 101 Transplanting, Watering, 117 Weeding, 116 Anthemis tinctoria, illus. 152, 162 Antirrhinum, illus. Apios tuberosa, 239 Aquilegia, illus. 139, 159, 160 cerulea, 151 Canadensis, 159 Arabis albida, 159 Ardisia, 351 Aristolochia macrophylla, 88 Armeria maritima, 160 Aruncus astilboides, illus. 155 Asclepias tuberosa, 164 Ash, 289 Ashes, wood, 58 Asparagus, 133, 351 Asplenium, 356 Aster Amellus, 164 China, illus. 105, 120 Nove-Anglie, 164 Stoke’s, illus. 147 (see Stokesia) Tataricus, 166 Astilbe Japonica, 160 Aubrietia deltoidea, 159
105
105, 133
407
408
Aucuba, 351 Auraearia, 351 Azalea, illus. 258; 266, 264, 350 Indica, illus. 333
Balloon flower, illus. 148 (see Platycodon) Balsam, 120 Baptisia australis, 160 Barberry (see Berberis) Bee Balm, 148 Beech, 289 Begonia, 133, 351, 352 Rex, illus. 336 Tuberous, illus. 235, 236 Belemcanda Chinensis, 162 Bellflower, 151 Bellis perennis, 159 Berberis, 263, 265 Aquifolium, 256, 263 vulgaris, 264 Bermuda grass, 69 Bessera, 235 Biennials, 99 Bitter sweet, False, 95 Blue-grass, Kentucky, 53-55 Bocconia cordata, 164 Boltonia asteroides, 159, 164 latisquama, 164 Bone meal, 58 Boston ivy, 194 Bouvardia, 351 Boxes, porch, 120 window, 120 Bridal wreath, illus. 241 Browallia, 351 Buckthorn, 265 Bulboecodium, 188 Bulbous plants, 170 (see Bulbs) Bulbs, 170 Arrangement of, 188, 190 Classification of, 171
178; 133,
illus.
INDEX
Cultivation of, 179
Depth to plant, 214
Dividing, 184
Hardy, 173, 186, 194
In beds, 189
In borders, 180
Indoors, 339, 346
In lawn, 187
Lifting, 184
Planting, 178, 182, 190
Preparation of beds
176
Spring flowering, 209
Succession of bloom of, 175 |
Tender, 175, 235
Value of, 173
Winter protection of, 183 Buttonbush, 264 Buttonwood, 289
for,
Caladium, 133, 235 Calendula, 114, 120 officinalis, illus. 116 Calimeris incisa, 160, 162 Calopsis, 114, 120 Calla, 235 Callirhoe involucrata, 160 Calycanthus floridus, 263 Camelia, 351 Campanula alliariaefolia, 162 Carpatica, 160 glomerata, 162 persicifolia, 160 pyramidalis, 151, 164 Trachelium, 162 Canada lily, illus. 185 Candytuft, 120 Canna, illus. 235 (see Richardia) Carnation, 351 Catchfly, illus. 137 Ceanothus Americanus, 264 Celastrus scandens, 95 Cephalanthus occidentalis, 264
176 and 181;
INDEX
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, 164 Chelone Lyoni, 164 obliqua, 164 Chestnut, horse, 289 China aster, illus. 105; 120 Chinese sacred lily, 348 Chionodoxa, 188 Depth to plant, 214 gigantea, 212 grandiflora, 212 Sardensis, 212 Chrysanthemum, 164, 166, 350 frutescens, illus. 330 Leucanthemum, 162 maximum, 162 Chrysogonum 160 Cimicifuga racemosa, 162 Cineraria, 351 Cinnamon vine, 95, 238 Cinquefoil, 263 Clarkia, 120 Clay (see Soil) Clematis, 91 Davidiana, 164 Diseases of, 92 Flammula, 92 Henryi, 94 Jackmani, illus. 84; 92 paniculata, 92 recta, 160 Soil for, 91 Clethra alnifolia, 263, 264 Climbers (see Vines) For indoor gardens, 351 Climbing fern, 350, 367 Climbing roses, 90 (see Roses) Cobea scandens, 351 Cockseomb, 120 Coleus, 133 Color of flowers, 40 Columbine, illus. 139; 151 (see Aquilegia)
Virginianum,
300,
409
Conoclinium coclestinum, 164 - Convallaria majalis, 159 Cooperia, 235 Coreopsis, 120
lanceolata, 160 Corm (see Bulbs) Cornelian cherry, 265 Cornflower, 1]4 Cornus, 263, 264 Coronilla varia, 160 Corylus, 264 Crab-grass, 68 Crimson Rambler, 90 Crocus, 188, 212
Depth to plant, 214 Croton, 133 Crytonium, 356 Cupheas, 351 Currant, wild, 263 Cyanea Stokesia, illus. 147 Cycas revoluta, 351 Cyclamen, 351 Cydonia Japonica, 263, 264
Daffodil (see Narcissus ) Dahlia. alhuss bre- 235; Single, illus. 189 Dandelions in lawn, 66 Daphne, 264 Day lily, illus. 166 (see Hemerocallis ) Delphinium formosum, 160 grandiflorum, 162 hybridum, illus. Deutzia, 253, 264 gracilis, 263 seabra, 263 Dianthus barbatus, illus. 154; 160 plumarius, 160 Dicentra eximia, 160 spectabile, 159 Dictmanus albus, Diervilla, 264 Digitalis ambigua, 162 monstrosa, illus. 161
236
150
160
410
purpurea, 160 Dioscorea divaricata, 95 Diseases, 309, 323 Catalogue of, 324 Remedies for, 324, 327 Dogwood, 263 Doronicum plantigineum, 159 Dracena, 351 Dragon-head, False, illus. 154 Drainage, 303 Dutchman’s pipe, 88
Easter lily, 346 Echinacea purpurea, 162 Eleagnus longipes, 265 Elder, 264 Elm, 289 English ivy, 350 Eranthis hyemalis, 213 Depth to plant, 214 Erigeron speciosus, 160 Eryngium amethystinum, 162 Erythronium, illus. 196 Euonymus, 265, 351 Japonicus, 257 radicans, 95 Eupatorium ageratoides, 164 Euphorbia corolotta, 162 Factory grounds planted, 18 Fagus ferruginea, 289 False bitter sweet, 95 False dragon-head, illus. 154 Farfugium, 351 Ferns, 364 Best varieties, 367 Boston, 356 Christmas, 367 Cinnamon, 367 Clayton’s, 367 Climbing, 350, 367 Culture of, 356 Ebony, 356, 367 Evergreen, 367 For indoor garden, 351, 356 For porch boxes, 133 Goldie’s, 367
INDEX
Gossamer, 367
Hardy, 364
Holly, 356
Kidney, 356
Lace, illus. 354; 367
Lady, 367
Maidenhair, illus. 355; 356,
367
New York, 367
Ostrich, illus. 366; 367
Pests of, 356
Pierson, 356
Royal, 367
Seott, 356
Sensitive, 367
Shield, 367
Situation for, 364
Soil for, 366
Sword, 356
Walking, 367 Fertilizers, 293
Animal manures, 303
Bone meal, 58, 307
For lawns, 46, 56
For porch boxes, 131
For potted plants, 337
For vines, 84
Lime, 59
Liquid, 132, 305, 307
Muriate of potash, 307
Nitrate of soda, 58, 307
Soot, 305
Wood ashes, 58, 307 Festuca glauca, 351 Ficus elastica, 351 Filbert, 264 Flats, 103 Fleur-de-lis (see [ris) Formal city garden, illus. 3 Forsythia, 253
suspensa, 264 Foxglove, illus. 161
(see Digitalis)
Fraxinus Americana, 289 Freesia, illus. 347
In pots, 347
INDEX
Fuchsia, 133, 351 Fungicides, 327 Fungus (see Diseases ) Funkia, illus. 166 Fortunei, iilus. 306, 162 lancifolia, 162 ovata, 162 subcordata, 164
Gaillardia aristata, 160, 164 Galanthus, 210 Depth to plant, 214 Gardening, 4 Geranium, illus. 350; 133, 351 Geranium sanguineum, 160 German iris, 160, 161 Geum coccineum, 160 montanum, 160 Ginkgo biloba, 289 Gladiolus, illus. 206; 235, 236 Glechoma, 133 Globe-flower, illus. 141 (see Trollius) Glory-of-the-snow (see Chion- odoxa) Goldenbell, 264 Golden glow, 158 (see Rudbeckia) Grass (see Lawns) For elay soil, 55 For lawns, 55 For sandy soil, 55 For shaded spots, 55 For terraces, 55 Greviliea robusta, 351 Gypsophila paniculata, 162
Hamamelis, 254 Height of plants, 40 Helenium, 164 Hoopesii, 160 Helianthus, 164 Heliopsis levis, 162 Heliotrope, 133, 351 Helloborus niger, 159 orientalis, 159
411
* Hemerocallis, illus. 166, 162
Dumortierti, 160 Hepatica triloba, 159 Heuchera sanguinea, 162 Hibiscus, 351
Moscheutus, illus. 143, 164
Syriacus, 264 Honeysuckle, illus. 93
(see Lonicera)
Bush, 264 Humus (see Soil) Hyacinth, illus. 201; 194
Best varieties of, 202
For pots, 343
In water, 344
Named varieties of, 200
Planting of, 200
Preparation of beds for, 201
Roman, 344
Winter protection of, 200 Hyacinthus candicans, 237 Hydrangea, illus. 244; 254
hortensis, illus. 353
paniculata, 264 Hypericum aureum, 263
prolificum, 264 Iberis sempervirens, 160
Indoor gardens (see Window gardens) Insecticides, 313, 321 Insects, 309 Chewing, 310 Destruction of, 310 Lists of, 313 Sucking, 310 Inula ensifolia, 162 Iris, 219 Bulbous, 224 cristata, 232 Division of, 234 Dwarf varieties of, 231 English (see J. xiphioides) Florentina, 233 Germanica, illus, 230; 160, 161, 230
412
Japanese (see J. levigata) Kempferi (see 1. levigata) levigaia, illus. 221; 161, 227 Oncocyclus, 220 pallida, 233 Planting, 234 Pseudacorus, 161, 233 pumila, 231 reticuiata, 226 Rhizomatous, 227 Sibirica, illus. 230 and 234; 161, 233 Spanish (see J. Xiphium) Susiana, 220 Varieties of, 219, 223 verna, 159, 232 aciphioides, illus. 234; 2 Xiphium, illus. 225; 22 Ivy, Boston, 94 English, 350 Kenilworth, 351 Parlor, 350 Japanese Iris (see I. levi- gata) Japanese quince, 263, 264 Japanese rose, 263 Juneberry, 264 Kalmia latifolia, illus. 255; 256, 263, 264.
Kenilworth ivy, 351 Kentucky blue-grass, 53 Kerria Japonica, 263 Kerria, white, 264 Kniphofia aloides, illus. 185 Kudzu vine, 239
Lantana, weeping, 133 Larkspur, illus. 150 (see Delphinium) Lavendula vera, 168 Lawns, 44 Autumn spading, 48 Bone meal for, 58
INDEX
Fertilizing, 45, 48, 56
Insects attacking, 71
Lime for, 59
Moles in, 71
Mowing, 60
Nitrate of soda for, 58
Preparation of soil for, 44-
48
Renovating old, 73
Rolling, 59
Seed for, 52-55
Sowing of, 52
Top-dressing of, 58
Turf for, 49
Watering, 63 ‘
Weeds in, 66
Wood ashes on, 58 Leaf mold (see Soil) Leucojum vernum, 210
Depth to plant, 214 liatris graminifolia, 164
spicata, 164 Ligustrum, 263 Lilae (see Syringa) Inlium, 214
auratum, 215, 217
Batemannie, 215, 21
Best varieties of, 21
Brown, 215, 217
Canadense, illus. 185; 217
candidum, illus. 191; 217
Chalcedonicum, 217
croceum, 217
Depth to plant, 218
Elegans, illus. 216
excelsum, 217
Hansoni, 217
Harristi, 346
Henryi, 215, 217
Japonicum, illus. 187, 215
Krameri, illus. 187
longiflorum, 215
Martagon, 217
Pardalinum, 217
Philadelphicum, 217
Season for planting, 215
INDEX 413
Soil for, 214, 217 speciosum, 217 superbum, 217 Thunbergianum, illus. 216; 217 Tigrinum, illus. 211, 217 umbellatum, 217 Value of, 214 Wallacei, 217 Washingtonianum, 217 Lily (see Lilium) Lime, 59 Linden, 289 Liriodendron tulipifera, 289 Lobelia cardinalis, 164 syphilitica, 164 Location of house, 26 Lonicera, 94, 265 Halliana, illus. 93; 94 Japonica, 94 sempervirens, 94 Tatarica, 264 Lychnis Chacedonica, 163 Coronaria, 161 Vespertina, 163 Viscaria, var. splendens, Hlyse 13is 16% Lygodium, 350, 356 Lysimachia clethroides, 163 nummularia, 161 punctata, 161
Madeira vine, 235, 238, 351 Madonna lily, illus. 191
(see Lilium) Mahernia odorata, 351 Mahonia (see Berberis Aqut- folium ) Maidenhair fern (see fern) tree, 289 Manettia, 133 Manure (see fertilizer) Maple, 289 Marguerite, illus. 152; 351 Mass planting, 38 Maurandya, 133, 350
Mesembryanthemum, 351 Mignonette, 114
Mock orange (see Philadel-
phus )
Monarda didyma, illus. 148
Monkshood, illus. i61 (see Aconitum
Montbretia, illus. 206; 235, 237
Morning glory, 96, 114
Japanese, 133 Mountain fetter bush, 264 Mountain laurel (see Aal-
mia )
Nasturtium, 96, 120, 133 Narcissus, illus. 170 and 199; 194, 340 Barrii, 198 Best varieties of, 197 Colors of, 195 Double, 200 For outdoor planting, 197 incomparabilis, 198 In pots, 340 Leedsii, 200 Naturalizing, 195 Paper white, illus. 341; 342 poeticus, illus. 196; 195, 200 Season for planting, 196 Trumpet, 197 Value of, 194 Nephrolepis, 356 Nitrate of soda (see Fertili- ZeYs
Oak, 289
@nothera fruticosa, 161, 163 Missouriensis, 163 speciosa, 163
Oleaster, 265
Orchard grass, 69
Oriental poppy, illus. 145
(see Papaver) Osier, red, 265
414
Oxalis, 235
Peonia, illus. 369; 367 Best varieties of, 373 Colors of, 36%
For cut flowers, 374 List of, 373 Moutan, illus. 372; Mulch for, 368 officinalis, 160 Sensitive varieties of, 371 Single, illus. 371
Soil for, 368
tenuifolia, 160
Tree (see P. Moutan) Value of, 367
Palms, 351, 352
Pandanus, 351, 354
Papaver nudicaule, illus. 145;
161 orientale, illus. 145; 161
Paris daisy, illus. 330; 351
Parlor ivy, 350
Peat (see Soil)
Pentstemon barbatus, 163 laevigatus, 161 ovatus, 163
Peony (see Pawonia)
Perennials, hardy herbaceous,
99, 134 Arrangement of, 167 Best varieties of, 157 Classification of, 134 Cultivation of, 167 Division of, 151, 152 Number of varieties, 136 Planting, 142 Preparation of beds for, 144 Propagation by cuttings,
156
Raising from seed, 148 Short-lived, 151 Succession of bloom of, 158 Watering of, 168 Winter protection of, 140 With shrubs, 169
264
INDEX
Petunia, illus. 114; 114, 120, 351 Philadelphus, 259, 264 Phlox, 374 Annual, illus. 100; 120 Best varieties of, 377 Cultivation of, 376 decussata, 376 divaricata, illus. 377; 160 Drummondiu, illus. 100; 133 Dwarf varieties of, 378 Lists o£; 377 Mulch for, 376 paniculata, illus. 375; 163, 164, 376, 378 Planting, 376 subulata, 160 suffruticosa, 376, 377 Physostegia Virginiana, illus. 154; 164 Pieris floribunda, 264 Mariana, 264 Pilea arborea, 351 Pink (see Dianthus) Annual, 120 Pinus Mughus, 264 Planning, 12 Before building, 25 Conditions governing, 24 Drawing to scale, 21 Elementary, 22 For harmonious effect, 37 On paper before planting, 35 Principles of, 13 Plans (see planning) How to draw, 35 What to include in, 36 Plantain in lawns, 66 Plantain lily, illus. 166 (see Funkia) Plantanus accidentalis, 289 Planting, examples of, 19
256, 263,
INDEX
Platycodon grandiflorum, illus. 148; 163 Plum, 264 Polemonium ceruleum, 160 Poplar, 289 Poppy, 114, 120 (see Papaver ) Ieeland, 151 Oriental, illus. 145 Shirley, illus. 110 Populus alba, 289 Porch boxes, 120 Construction of, 128 Dimensions of, 127 Fertilizer for, 131 Plants for, 132 Soil for, 130 Uses of, 123 Value of, 121 Watering, 132 Portulaca, 120 Potentilla fruticosa, 263 Pot marigold, illus. 116; 120 Potting, 235 Primrose, 351 Primula, 160, 352 Principles of planning, 31 Privet, 263 Prunus, 264 Purpose of a yard, 16 Pyrethrum roseum, 161
Quercus palustris, 289 rubra, 289
Rambler, Crimson, 90 Ramblers (see vines) Red root, 264 Repotting, 235 Rhamnus, 265 Rhododendron, 255, 264 Catawbiense, 264 Ritodotypos, 264 Rhus, 254 Ribes floridum, 263
illus. . 260;
Richardia, 235, 351 Roman hyacinths (see Hyacinth ) Roses, 357 Bourbon, 363 Climbing, 90, 364 Crimson Rambler, 90 Dorothy Perkins, 90 Fertilizer for, 361 For shrubberies, 364 Gen. Jacqueminot, 359; 362, 363 Grafted, 358 Hardy perpetual, 362 Hybrid perpetual, 363 Hybrid tea, 363 Japanese, 263 Noisette, 364 On own roots, 358 Planting of, 357 Pruning of, 361 Tea, 364 Trellis, 363 Wichuraiana, 90 Winter protection of, 360 Rubus, 265 Rudbeckia, 166 laciniata (golden illus.. 158; 164 triloba, 164 Rules for planting, 31
illus.
glow)
St. John’s Wort, 263, 264 Salix alba, 289 Sambucus, 264, 265 Sanguinaria Canadensis, 159 Scabiosa, annual, 120 Caucasica, 161 Scilla, 210 Ameena, 188 Depth to plant, 214 Sibirica, 210 Screw pine, 354 Sedum. spectabile, 166 Selaginella denticulata, 351 Senecio, 350
416
mikanioides, 351 pulcher, 166 Shasta daisy, illus. 163 (see Chrysanthemum ) Shirley’ poppy, illus. 163 (see Papaver ) Shrubs, 240 Blooming in spring, 264 Blooming two months, 263 Compared to trees, 243 Cultivation of, 252 Effectiveness of, 245 Evergreen, 255, 264 For city yard, 257 For shaded situations, 263 Grouping of, 246, 252 List of best hardy, 263 Planting of, 251 Pruning of, 252 Spraying, 261 Uses of, 248 Value of, 248, 254 Varieties of, 253 When to plant, 261 Winter protection of, 252 With ornamental fruit, 265 With variegated foliage, 264 Silene, 120 Smilax, 351 Smoke bush, (see Rhus) Snapdragon, illus. 105; 133 (see Antirrhinum ) Snowball, 264 (see num ) Snowberry, 263, 265 Snowdrop, 188 (see Galanthus) Snowflake, 188 (see Lewcojum) Sod for lawns, 50 (see Lawns) Soil, 293 Clay, 296 Composition of, 295 Cultivation of, 301
Virbur-
INDEX
Fertilizing of, 303 Good garden, 298 Humus, 296 Leaf mold, 296 Mixtures of, 297 Peat, 296 Trenching of, 302 Solidago, 166 Soot (see Fertilizers ) Specimen planting, 32 Npirea, 253, 260, 264 Aruncus, illus. 155; 161] Filipendula, illus. 135; 162 lobata, 163 palmata, 162 prunifolia, 260 Thunbergii, 260 Van Houttei, 260 Squill (see Scilla) Stachys Betonica, 163 Stagger-bush, 264 Statice Tatarica, 163 Stocks, illus. 110; 120 Stoke’s aster, illus. 147; 163 Stokesia cyanea, illus. 147; 163 Strawberry bush, 265 Summer hyacinth, 237 Sunflower, 114, 120 Swainsonia, 351 Swamp Rose, illus. 143 Sweet alyssum, 114, 120, 351 Sweet-peas, illus. 112; 120 Sweet pepper, 263, 264 Sweet-scented shrub, 263 Sweet sultan, 114 Sweet William, illus. 143 Sycamore, 289 Symphoricarpos, 263 racemosus, 265 Syringa (see Philadelphus) Syringa, 253, 259 vulgaris, 264
illas.=< 2a;
Tecoma radicans, 96
INDEX
Thalictrum 162 Thermopsis Carotiniana, 162 Thunbergia, 133 Thunbergian lily, illus. 216 Tiger lily, illus. 211 Tigridia, 235 Tilia Americana, 289 vulgaris, 289 Torch lily, illus. 185 T'radescantia, 351 Virginiana, 163 Trees, 266 Bordering parks, 271 Bordering streets, 272 Cultivation of, 284 Enemies of, 290 Evergreen, 285 How to plant, illus. 267 In city yards, 266, 274 Insect pests of, 291 Objection to, 240 Of Heaven, 289 Planting. 283 Pranme, 275; 277 Transplanting of, 277, 281 Varieties of, 288 Watering, 285 Wrong use of, 268 Trellises, 97 Trenching, 302 Trillium erectum, 159 Trollius Europeus, illus. 141; 160, 162 Trumpet creeper, 95 Tuberose, 235 Tuberous-rooted plants, 170 (see Bulbs) Tulip, 194, 203 Bizarre, 208 Breeder, 208 Byblemen, 208 Classification of, 205 Darwin, 208 Double, 205, 206 Early single, 205
aquilegifolium,
417
Florist, 208 For pots, 346 In borders, 204 Lifting, 204 May-flowering, illus. 4174 and 203; 207 Mother, 208 Parrot, illus. 203; 206 Preparation of beds 204 Rose, 208 Season for planting, 203 Self, 208 Show, 208 Winter protection of, 204 Tulip tree, 289 Turf for lawns, 49 Laying of, 50 Watering, 50
for,
Ulmaria illus. 135 (see Spirea Filipendula) Ulmus Americana, 289 campestris, 289 Umbrella plant, 133
Filipendula,
Vernonia Arkansana, 164
Veronica, illus, 165 longifolia, 163, 164 rupestris, 162 Virginica, 163
Viburnum, 259, 264 lantana, 265 opulus, 265 plicatum, 260
Vinca, 133, 351
Vines, 75 Annual, 80, 96 Bulbous, 238 Classification of, 77 Cultivation of, 82 Fertilizers for, 84 For indoor gardens,
301
Perennial, 80, 87
390,
418
Pruning of, 85 Soil for, 81 Supports for, 97 Uses of, 76 Value of, 75 Varieties of, 87-98 Violet, 351 Virginia creeper, 87
Walks, 28 Course of, 29 Planning of, 34 Wayfaring tree, 265 Weeds, in lawns, 66 Weigelia, 264 Wichuraiana rose, 90 Willow, 289 Window boxes, 120 Window garden, 329 Bulbs for, 339, 346 Ferns for, 356 Fertilizer for, 337 Flowers for, 348, 350, 351 Foliage plants for, 348, 351 Hyacinths for, 343
INDEX
Location of, 332 Narcissi for, 340 Plants for, 339 Potting, 335 Repotting, 335 Soil for, 332 Sunless, 351 Temperature of, 348 Tulips for, 346 Watering, 336 Vines for, 350, 351 Winter aconite, 188 (see Hranthis) Wistaria Chinensis, 95 multijuga, 9d speciosa, 95 Witch-hazel (see hamamelis) Wolfberry, 263 Wood ashes, 58 (see Fertilizer) Woodbine, illus. 89; 88
Zephyranthes, 235 Zinnia, illus, 102; 120
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