Toronto Horticultur ar book Toronto Horticultural Society Garden Year Book 1917 Corouto Horticultural Society Che Garden Year Honk es Gre Containing list of Officers, Members, and Conunitters, Repurts, ete. LS ie Spee Wa LEE PO pel Deeg T- @ RR, O N tae Toronto Horticultural Society LAL PP sy mS? ; \ | OFFICERS, 1917 jf - Rt Wr Honorary President: : F alee aie a Sir John Eaton 5 5 fe 3 i 3 Honorary Patrons: Sir Wm. Meredith Major W. G. Mackendrick Mr. J. L. Englehart Mr. E. R. Wood Mr. J. W. Flavelle Mr. D. A. Dunlap Mr. W. G. Gooderham C. E. Chambers, Park Commissioner His Worship, the Mayor President: Mr. P. H. Mitchell 1st Vice-President: Mr. H. H. Love 2nd Vice-President: Mr. C. B. Hamilton Board of Directors: Mr. F. Roden Mr. Jas. Wallace Mr. A. B: Ormsby Mr. W. J. Evans Mr. W. Fountain Mr. C. E. Burden Mr. W. F. Revill Mr. F. L. Riggs Mr. John Martin Secretary: Mr. O. St. G. Freer, 19 Melinda Street, Phone Main 7970, Junction 164. Treasurer: Mr. W. J. Evans, 161 Walmer Road Auditors: Mr. W. C. Simpson Mr. T. B. Alcock The Society is represented for 1917 in the following organizations:— Canadian National Exhibition: Mr. W. J. Evans Ontario Horticultural Society: Miss M. E. Blacklock Mr. A. B. Ormsby Mr. T. D. Dockray Miss M. Yates Mr. T. B. Alcock Mr. P. H. Mitchell Miss Jardine Mr. Jas. Wallace Mr. W. Fountain Mr. E. Whaley Col. J. M. Delamere Mr. W. J. Evans Mr. C. B. Hamilton Mr. E. B. Shuttleworth Sir John Eaton, Honorary President O O Bo Ey Ame UR ab ay: T OFAR Os N~ ae SPECIAL COMMITTEES Committee on Exhibits: Mr. F. Roden, Chairman Mr. W. F. Revill Mr. Jas. Wallace Mrs. T. A. Patterson Mr. T. D. Dockray Mr. T. A. Patterson Military Convalescent Hospitals: Mr. J. W. Fountain Mr. O. St. G. Freer School Children's Home Gardens: Mr. C. B. Hamilton, Chairman Mr. F. H. Middleton Mr. C. E. Burden Membership: Mr. W. J. Evans Ladies’ Membershtp: Mrs. P. H. Mitchell Mrs. H. H. Love Finance: Mr. H. H. Love, Chairman Mr. W. J. Evans Garden Year Book: Mr. W. F. Revill Publicity: Mr. F. L. Riggs Free Advice to Members: When any of our members are uncertain on horticultural matters the follow- ing authorities may be written to for information, always enclosing an addressed stamped envelope for reply:—_ Annuals, Perennials—Miss M. E. Blacklock, Meadowvale P.O. Annuals, Perennials—Mr. T. D. Dockray, 156 Rusholme Road. Asters and Iris—Mr. J. H. Howarth, 19 Heath Street West. Dahlias—Mr. Jas. Wallace, 12 Wellington Street East. Vegetables—Mr. G. Baldwin, 738 Dovercourt Road. Roses—Mr. J. M. Bryson, 112 Balmoral Ave. Pzonies—R. H. Bennett, Barrie, Ont.; William Hunt, O.A.C., Guelph. Gladioli—Mr. A. Gilchrist, 424 Runnymede Road. Small Fruits—P. W. Hodgetts, Parliament Buildings, Toronto. 4 E Mr. P. H. Mitchell, President O O BoE VAS ae Ee ey, T oO R 3 _ N Vie TREASURERS’ REPORT FOR YEAR ENDING OCT. 31st, 1916 General Fund Receipts— Balancesfrom® 1915. haa ee ee $ 17.56 Avintal Reestv tas Aon eee 707.00 Donations: 26s: by). ee ree 203'.25 Grant—Government................-- 500.00 Grant (City 2.0 ee eee eee 300.00 Year Bookcads? .<.4)2 5-5 eee 202 .92 Sale of Flowers (Red Cross Fund)...... 76.15 Miscellamecoussaemit atest iaiecy tea 325 Disbursements— Printings: ee. ei eae ae eS Oe Postage. Watton hay er eee eee 116.58 Stationery sae hee: oe eee 73.85 Gartasesandsotorage 2 sone eee 63.05 Telephonéey.2% aut cae ee ee 30.70 Rents 5 Sateen peo ces hc ae ee 75.00 eecturesint eet: ri toe, ee eee 37230 SIGs v5 8 eo kag SA ee 16.00 Exhibitions ai es ae eee beet 131.87 Exhibitions-sinentsietes =e rane WA 35) Missions,;seeastlon ae ee eee 7.50 School Gardens Competition........... 154.98 Stenosrapherwee cy ae eee 110.39 DECretany (Nolen REPORT OF FLORAL EXHIBITS’ COMMITTEE Your Committee beg to submit the following report for the year, 1916. On account of the great uncertainty of May blooming flowers, your Committee decided again to leave out the May Show, holding as usual the June, July and August Exhibitions. On account of the extreme heat and drought during the month of June and July, your Committee found it advisable to cancel the August Exhibition. The Exhibits and Exhibitions show a fair average over previous years. The figures are as follows:— June 1916— 40 Exhibitors June 1915— 37 Exhibitors 1916— 84 Exhibits *- 1915— 98 Exhibits July 1916— 43 Exhibitors July 1915— 64 Exhibitors 1916—113 Exhibits “-1915—203 Exhibits Your Committee would point out that the numbers of Exhibits were smaller but are glad to report a marked improvement in the standard of flowers exhibited. The proceeds from the sale of the flowers by auction after the Shows were $76.15, which amount was sent to the Red Cross. Your Committee again wish to express their thanks to the many Exhibitors who put up splendid Exhibits not for competition thus helping towards our success. Also to the ladies, who again supplied the much appreciated refreshments, we give our hearty thanks, all of which I respectfully submit. W. F. Revill, Chairman. SUBSCRIPTIONS TO THE SOCIETY, 1916 Mr. W. G. Gooderham.. . $25.00 Mi. )2 ae Enelehanteeaaee $25.00 ‘Mrs. W. G. Gooderham.. 25.00 Mr. R. J. Christie... 7. 25800 Mr. J. W. Flavelle...... 50.00 Miss Blacklock... ...7.. 5 2a00 Mrs. J. W. Flavelle...... 25.00 Friend, ...©.... 00. Serene wD WMG dein Ine, Wiioferel oben dex 25.00 $203.25 16 Grow Your Own Vegetables and Cut the High Cost of Living To obtain the best results use only Seed of the first quality CARTERS | ESTED SEEDS ARE GROWN FROM SELECTED STOCKS Our 1917 Catalog, fully illustrated, (in- cluding eight full-page coloured prints) is now ready, write, call, or phone for a copy Phones: Main 5954 Main 2507 foarn ERS TESTED SEEDS 133 King St. East Toronto By BAe ee lees TO) Ro SON ae SUGGESTIONS FOR THE BACK YARD VEGETABLE GARDEN By_ Geo. Baldwin, F.R.H.S. In outlining the possibilities of vegetable growing in a small space by an amateur Grower, the three principal points to be considered are, the preparation of the soil, the selection of varieties and proper culti- vation, and let the motto be “Thorough.” If the ground has not already been deeply dug and manured, do it just as soon as the frost is out of the ground using rotted manure, not new manure, as this is liable to cause trouble with your tuberous crops, if rotted manure is not procurable use commercial fertilizer, which can be obtained from any of the local seedmen. After digging rake over smoothly the garden or beds raising the centre a little higher so as to shed off heavy rains. And for an ordinary sized garden, get about 4 lbs. air slaked lime and 3 lbs. powdered sulphur, mix thoroughly together and scatter all over the garden, broadcast, and comb in with a rake, this will have the effect of driving off the cut worms and slugs, which as a rule are very prevalent in the spring. It is most essential that you have your rows of vegetables running North and South. By the first week in May we should have the garden all ready for starting to plant the early variety of vegetables. If we are not fortunate enough to possess a hot bed purchase the best seeds and plants you can as it pays in the long run. About the 10th of May sow seeds for 3 rows of Onions, Red, White and Yellow, Southports’ preferable, putting the rows 18 inches apart so as to permit cultiva- tion between, then 2 rows of Beets, flat Egyptian being the best, 2 rows of Parsnips, Hollow Crown, and | row of Carrots (Oxheart), and | row Carrots (Early Nantes), and then rest until May 24th, when you will again commence gardening, but in earnest, by putting out 4 rows of Cabbage, rows 2 feet apart and plants 18 inches apart in the rows, next put in 3 rows of Beans, rows 18 inches apart, put in lots of beans and then thin out to 6 inches apart, next to these put in 2 rows of Telephone Peas training them up sticks, but there are just as good kinds among the dwarfs, Carter Dwarf Telephone and Dwarf Champion Peas. Although Cauliflower can be grown almost to perfection in the back garden, they need a lot of attention. Snowball is the best. We must not overlook the fact of second crops that can be ob- obtained off the ground when the above plants are finished and one of the most essential things wanted by the housewife is Salads for the hot weather, to help out the larder in providing for the hungry man and children. Lettuce, take your choice of Big Boston, Suttons’ Ideal or Nonpariel preferable; sow the seeds thinly because Lettuce generally is a good germinater, sow the seeds half an inch deep cover- ing it over with fine earth and firm down moderately hard, as the seeds begin to make headway, thin out, planting those you pull out in between other seed rows, and after the roots have taken firm hold continue to cultivate the soil as long as you can with a small hoe, or even a small pointed stick, in between. In fact all salad cereals require lots of cultivation and water, especially in dry weather. Endive the long curled variety is the best and requires exactly the same treatment as lettuce, except that it requires blanching which is done 18 Bae AD Uy oT? TB ogy TO: Kamo Nok oO by covering each plant with small tomato baskets or perforated papers. Radish is the quickest growing of all salads, so that it will be necessary to make your rows wide enough apart to allow of succes- sion sowing, so as to be sure to have some good sound ones when the rest of Salads are matured. You will find that the Turnip Radish, both scarlet and white, are good for Salads, let them be a medium size when pulled. Mustard and Cress like the Radish is also a quick grower, so make the same arrangements for sowing so as to have it in prime at the proper time. Beets, get the Crosbys’ Egyptian, sow thinly and it will not be necessary to thin the plants out, but keep the roots covered with soil as they have a tendency to push themselves out of the ground and you lose that rich cardinal color which always adds effect to the look of the Salad, do not let them get too big. We must not forget to have our Celery bed to provide salad for the fall. Celery is the poor as well as the rich man’s luxury. It is not so many years ago that Celery was a rarity but of late a remarkable change has taken place and now presents numerous varieties, some of which are cut for salad, while others including what is called Celeric or the Turnip-rooted variety are much used for stewing or similar purposes. The Celery commonly grown in this country is raised in hot-beds, transplanted into boxes, and finally into the trenches. If you want celery fit to set before a King, grow it yourself the following cultural direction will enable you to bring out the proper quality and size. Constant vigilance is truly the price of success in the growing of Celery. What with worms, bugs and all manner of flying and creeping things plus blight and mildew and rust, the path of the Celery grower is hedged with thorns as well as roses. However, let me hasten to assure the amateur grower, that rarely do all these things come at the same time and some never at all into many gardens. The very best way toearn immunity from these pests is to have strong vigorous plants, keep the soil well enriched and use the hoe continually until earthing up time comes. Now, lets get right down to business. I do not recommend the raising of your own plants, because they are difhcult to raise successfully unless you have the proper facilities as well as time, so order at once from one of the local seedmen any or all of the following varieties and quantities according to the size of your trench.—Paris Golden for yellow; White Plume for white; Rose-ribbed Paris for red, and Evans’ Triumph for green. These are all obtainable. Now get busy with your trench in the following manner. Mark off your ground 7 feet wide by length required to take care of the quantity you intend plant- ing, having your trench running North and South, dig the earth out of this piece to a depth of say 9 inches throwing it equally on each side, then throw in 6 inches of good rotten manure or the best you can get and dig it in thoroughly and deeply and to insure it being well incor- porated with the soil, tramp all over it and digging it up again and then level and rake over letting it stand until the last week in May, hav- ing ordered your plants to be delivered at the time, on arrival mark off your four rows with a piece of string 18 inches wide from each bank and 18 inches between rows and then dibble your plants in 9 inches apart in the rows, but be very careful when planting to dibble the holes large enough to allow you to get all the roots in a 19 BO SASS VSS ah ae Tr O R “O N ee downward position and be mindful of the fact that it-is essential to press the earth firmly around the roots, give a good supply of water and shade with paper for a couple of days from the hot sun. From now on to the time for earthing keep the earth well stirred between the rows, and give lots of water, but not on the foliage, once a week you may give the rows a watering with liquid manure and occasionally a little nitrate of soda either dry or in liquid. About the second week in July you may commence the earthing operation, raising the earth a little higher every Saturday afternoon, the first week in August you may start using the White Plume and Paris Golden, keeping the Rose Ribbed Paris and Evans Triumph for Fall and Winter use. Scatter a little slacked lime and Sulphur over and around your bed twice during the growing Season, this is to pre- vent blight, rust or mildew, and occasionally be on the lookout for a very pretty looking green and yellow Caterpillar which is very partial to Celery. There are several ways of bleaching but the foregoing is far preferable as it creates that sweet nutty flavor, but be careful when earthing up not to let any earth get down into the heart of the plant, if however you have not the time or inclination to earth you may use a medium thick brown paper, tying each plant up separate or you may use two | inch x 12 inch boards for each row, if you have grown sufficient Celery you may keep it in good shape up till middle of February by the following method; dig out a trench in the garden 15 inches deep about 10 inches wide, put boards on either side, cover the tops over with a clean litter of Hay or Straw, then as the severe freezing weather is coming on cover this over with about 6 inches of soil patting it down with your shovel and sloping it so as water will drain off or better still if you have an old hot bed dig the earth out to a depth of 18 inches, dig up the Celery leaving all the earth you can to the roots, and plant in this frame, covering the tops with clean litter and place sash on top leaving about 2 inches of air space and also throw some litter or matting on top of sash. Grow radishes along the tops of the mounds you threw out when making the trench and which will mature before you require the soil for earthing up purposes. Try some Celery cut up in your mustard pickles this Fall. Now comes the Tomato patch, putting your plants in 3 feet apart each way stagger them in the rows so as they will not shade one another, if your patch is 20 feet wide this will give you 6 plants to a row and having 4 rows you will need 24 plants which is plenty for an ordinary family if attended to and trained up, stakes, four to each plant, which should be four feet six inches above ground, after being driven in and at an angle of seventy-five degrees outwards and nine inches away from the plant at bottom, select the centre and three of the strongest side shoots for training up these stakes, removing all other laterals and suckers as fast as they appear, and as the 4 shoots increase in length keep tying here and there up the stakes, now watch for the flowers and as soon as the fourth set of floweres have formed, pinch out the top of the limb, which strengthens the fruit that is form- ing under the bloom, as soon as all the bloom has formed into fruit allow one more shoot to form on each limb which will eventually give you some green Tomatoes for pickling. The application of Ni- trate of Soda in dry or liquid form is beneficial, say three applications 20 Makes a Splendid Spray The difficulty of securing and storing materials to make a cheap and satisfactory plant spray is experi- enced by many—to the detriment of the plants. Here is news of a very inexpensive, easily secured and effective spray which only needs a trial to get your hearty endorsation. LIFEBUOY HEALTH SOAP A prominent Toronto Gardener says: “T have found Lifebuoy Soap one of the best Sprays I ever tried in a lifetime of gardening experience. I make up a good suds with Lifebuoy Soap in hot water and when cool the liquid makes a thoroughly satisfactory carbolic spray. Before transplanting, give your young plants a good spray or painting with this Lifebuoy suds and they will start free of insect life.” 5 AT ALL GROCERS EVERYWHERE C. Lever Brothers Limited, Toronto Br Bo AS CU wale rao ty T QO).-4R (O° NN. ae a teaspoonful when planting, again when blooms are forming and finally when the fruit is set. "Tomatoes require lots of watering in dry season, but do not use the hose, just dampen the soil around the roots, use a rake for cultivating instead of a hoe as the roots of Tomatoes have a tendency to rise to the surface and would be destroyed if hoed too deeply. We must now plant some Corn, 2 rows of Golden Bantam and 2 rows of Country Gentleman late Corn, putting the rows 28 inches apart and hills 2 feet apart, stagger the same as the Tomato, put in about 12 seeds to the hill and then thin out to 5 and putting here and there two or three seeds of Squash, Cucumber, or Marrow, also sow some Radish seeds broadcast amongst the Corn, which will be ready for the table before the Corn shades too much. Now that your planting is all done start at the top of the garden cultivating, thinning out and watching for cut-worms and caterpillars. You will notice that the vegetables are graded according to height and you will be governed by location, placing the tall growing, west or north, cultivate freely and do not water unless absolutely necessary and in the evening. ARTICIFICIAL FERTILIZERS By Geo. Baldwin, F.R.H.S. The theory of Fertilizing consists in maintaining in the soil such an amount of plant food, both mineral and organic, as shall enable us to reap the largest possible amount of crops from the soil. All vege- tables and most flowers are strong feeders and a quantity of manure or commercial Fertilizer is necessary each year. For the best results both are essential as the manure alone contains an excess of nitrogen, and if commercial Fertilizer is continually used alone the soil eventually becomes deficient in humus. When the man whose gardening is con- fined to the back yard reads that 2,000 lbs. of certain Fertilizer per acre is the proper proportion, he gets but a vague idea of the quan- tity to apply to his 5 ft. Perennial Border or his 20 ft. square vege- table patch. Yet it is even more important for him than for the larger grower to exercise care in the application of Fertilizers. Too much Fertilizer is as bad if not worse than none at all, giving a tendency to rank growth. So don’t guess, but put about half pound to 10 sq. feet. I have had excellent success with this quantity of Fertilizers for both flowers and vegetables using that prepared at local abbatoirs, if it is desired to mix the ingredients yourself, procure according to size of your lot: | part Sulphate of Potash, 14 part Air Slacked Lime, | part Sulphate of Ammonia, 14 part Powered Sulphur. | part Nitrate of Soda, Mix thoroughly and scatter broadcast all over your lot after having dug it up then rake it in gently with the rake about an inch deep, before sowing seeds. I have also found that Nitrate of Soda by itself is magical with Lilies, Ferns, Fuchsias, Tulips and Hyacinths, is excel- lent for Asparagus, Celery and especially Rhubarb, apparently no benefit to Columbines and Onions. A handful to 2/% gallons of water around the plant; it is best to be applied in the evening. 99 BEAUTIFY TOR CGNT © HOT BED SASH ano FRAMES OF LOUISIANA RED CYPRESS Hot Bed Sash - 3 ft. x 6 3 Rows 10 in. Glass, at .. $1.30 « 4 ge Hot Bed Sa - 3 ft. 2 in. 4 Rows 8 in. Glass, at .. me ae whether for Lapped « MANUFACTURERS GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL HOT BED SASH AND FRAMES WRITE FOR FOLDER 371-380 PACIFIC AVE. - WEST TORONTO BS se Ae rea Perks Se T O R O N Te ROCK GARDENS By L. A. Dunington-Grubb Until a few years ago rock gardening was almost unknown on the American Continent, and even now there are but few good ex- amples in the States and scarcely any worthy of mention in Canada. The best attemps in this direction are probably to be found at Vic- toria, Vancouver Island where the numerous natural outcropping of rock provide the gardener with a ready-made rock garden in a climate ideal for plant growth. At this point I should perhaps make it quite clear that I am deal- ing with “‘rock”’ or ‘“‘Alpine Gardens” as they are sometimes called and not with “‘rockeries.”’ I could never find a place in a garden of mine for a rockery. The latter immediately calls up a familiar vision of an unnatural excrescence of boulders and soil in the middle of a lawn, or, worse still, a heap of tree stumps and vitrified bricks in some dark or shaded corner. Not only are these monstrosities terrible to look upon but they are quite unsuited to the growing of choice plants. A well planned rock garden should have the appearance of a small portion of a mountain side, with the rocks and plants so dis- posed as to be a faithful imitation of nature. It is the artificiality of the ordinary rockery which makes it so objectionable. For it neither conforms to nature nor to any kind of architectural construction which is the obvious and legitimate handiwork of man. The question is sometimes asked—if the rock gardens were suited to the climate of Canada would we not see more of them about? Their absence in this case, does not prove that they are the unattainable, but rather does it point to lack of interest on the part of the general and horticultural public. Barring the tropics and the Polar regions there are few countries where rock gardens are an impossibility. Be- yond all doubt this particular form of gardening can be carried out with considerable success in this country, and there is a long list of abso- lutely hardy plants to draw from. The full extent of the flora avail- able for the purpose can only be determined by actual experiment. One is, however, perfectly safe in stating that a large number of flowering plants which have proved tender up to the present, would be found quite hardy when grown under conditions more closely ap- proximating their natural habitat. Although it is possible to have some measure of bloom in the rock garden throughout the entire season, it is in the late spring and early summer that it is to be seen at its full beauty. For this reason if for no other it should commend itself to those who are absent from their gardens during the summer and autumn months. They could enjoy the charm and infinite variety of colour and form which this kind of gardening offers, and which can be obtained in no other way, at a time of year when our gardens are unusually dull and uninterest- ing. Before considering the matter of construction, we must acquire some knowledge of the special needs of the plants we intend to grow. We must familiarize ourselves with the conditions under which they are found in nature. The flowering plants may be divided into two groups. 24 Peer Ae UE Oe Re Ys Te OO (RO Nr Oo First—The true Alpines. These grow in high altitudes above the tree line on any of the big mountain ranges of the world. Usually they are not more than a few inches in height and are either of a tufted, cushiony growth or else trailers. They grow, for the most part, in cracks and fissures in the rock or on the surface of the moraines fully exposed both to wind and sun. Now it must not be supposed that because these plants are found more abundantly on mountains than elswhere that it is impossible to grow them in lower altitudes or on the sea level. Certain conditions are necessary for their well being and when these are provided their successful growth is assured. A casual observer might suppose that because Alpines are found growing in the crevices of dry rock, apparently without any soil for their roots, that they therefore require but little moisture or nutriment. As a matter of fact the reverse is the case. ~The most common cause of mortality among rock plants is want of moisture. If one were to take a pickaxe and break away the rocks surrounding a plant growing on the mountainside, one would probably have to excavate back for at least 3 feet in order to trace out the roots to their entire length, so far do they travel in search of moisture. Then again the rocks themselves are never really dry, for even when the snow has disappeared from that particular locality, there will be a continual seepage from the melting snows of some higher level. No matter how baking the sun may be at noon, the rocks and ground beneath are always moist. Another important point to be remembered is this. By reason of their adaptability to surroundings which would be unsuitable to plants of taller, ranker growth and for trees, they have the field or, perhaps we should say, the mountain to themselves. Take these same plants down to the foothills or plains and they are immediately in competition for space with a more vigorous vegetation. Another cause of failure in our rock gardens is due then to overcrowding and overshadowing. It is easy to see that a craggy mountain slope tho’ moist during the summer by reason of the ever melting snows, is at the same time perfectly drained, and the plants, growing on it, never rot through excessive moisture. It must be remembered also that these plants are covered with a thick blanket of snow during the entire winter and are never subjected to the cruel alternate freezing and thawing of the average winter in the vicinity of Toronto. Therefore, although they are capable of withstanding a much lower temperature than we are accustomed to have in this neighborhood, yet experiment may show that a number of Alpines are tender with us owing to lack of snow. This would apply especially to the mossy saxifrages of which there are a great number of varieties in cultivation. In our second group of plants we place hardy perennials of moder- ate and dwarf growth which, although not strictly speaking Alpines, are admirably suited for introduction into the rock garden. Under this heading we may also include ferns, bog and water plants. In addition to the foregoing we should introduce a certain number of dwarf conifers and shrubby plants of diminutive size. Having given some thought to the requirements of the plants we can now proceed to choose a site for our rock garden. Being essenti- On BOE A> SU le le Bees rT oO _RF ON ae ally naturalistic, it should be associated with informal surroundings. This is to say, if space will permit, it should be so placed as to be in- invisible from the house and should be definitely separated from the formal flower garden. An ideal location would be in a clearing, through and beyond a small wood where such adjoins the garden pro- per. One should come upon it unexpectedly as a piece of mountain landscapein miniature. If water can be combined with it in the form of a pond or stream or both, it will prove an additional charm and the flora at our disposal will be largely increased. For we could then add a small bog garden to the general scheme. Of course rock gardening on such a scale as | have indicated here is not always possible and much pleasure and success can be derived from a humbler conception. The slope of a bank formed by a tennis court or croquet lawn will often afford a suitable site if the formality of the bank is sufficiently broken and disguised. In the small city lot where the house dominates every corner a rock garden may be constructed on a terrace bank providing that suitable evergreens and shrubs mask it from the house windows. Perhaps the most desirable form for a rock garden to take is that of a shallow winding dell with a path leading through it. This can be accomplished by excavating the ground in the direction of the path and throwing the earth up on either side to form irregular slopes. Rough stone steps may lead down into the dell at one end and up at the other. If the exit is not visible from the entrance a feeling of greater space will be created. The long axis of the garden should run north east and south west, this will provide a good south east exposure for one bank and a north west for the other. By this arrange- ment we shall be able to give our plants the special aspects they require. Remembering always to keep our rock garden well in the open and away from shade and drip of trees. Having shaped the banks roughly into the form they are to take, we then proceed to place our stones. The kind of stone we use de- pends largely on what is available. As long as we avoid round bould- ers, almost any kind of stone can be made to do, though warm, light- coloured sandstone and limestone will give the best effect. Dark shades give a dreary appearance and although large granite blocks look fine in some positions yet the absence of stratification is a dis- tinct drawback. The largest blocks of stone should be got into position first and generally speaking they should never overhang each other as it is difficult to get plants to grow underneath. An exception can be made . when forming a rocky cave in connection with a pond. All stones should be placed with their lines of stratification running in the same direction that they had in nature. Nothing looks so terribly as to see stones stand up on edge. Care should be taken to see that all stones should be partially buried in the soil and that they should have a slight dip back into the bank in order to conserve moisture. The general appearance of a rock garden should be that of a number of small irregular terraces broken here and there by bold masses of out- standing rock. Stepping stones may lead from one side of a bank to another. The soil should be a good rich gritty loam with a slight admixture of screened well rotted manure. A few shovels of small 26 THE SHERIDAN NURSERIES Landscape Gardeners Growers of choice herbaceous flowering perennials and ornamental trees and shrubs. Nurseries : City Office Barridan, Ontario City act mee 34 North Street Phone Clarkson 20r2 eps iccct Ny ee Phone North 8064 An attractive entrance in Rosedale arranged and planted by us. If you want results like this write or telephone us for our illustrated booklet “ THE ART OF GARDEN DESIGN” and for our illustrated descriptive catalogue. Let us assist you in laying out your grounds and planning your flower garden. Have You Seen Our New Show Grounds 82 Bloor St. W.? Bo cE AS SU a eee av T "Or (R20 ON tae sharp stones up to the size of a hen’s egg should also be added. These latter tend to hold the moisture in the soil and also give the roots something to cling to. Certain true Alpines require to have the sur- face of the soil covered with finely broken stone chips. These can be added after planting. The general backbone of the planting should consist of dwarf conifers to give a feeling of permanence, the largest of these should be used chiefly as a backing and only amongst the owers. The flower- ing plants should be grouped in masses and drifts and should never be dotted singly. Considerable attention should be given to the general colour scheme and also to the requirements of the individual plants. For instance the Alpine Auriculas should be given a north aspect whereas the Alyssum Saxatile and Aubretias should be placed on the south or south east. Moisture loving plants such as Trollius and Lobelia Cardinalis and Syphilitica should be planted in the bog. The following is a list of plants suitable for the rock garden in Canada. It does not pretend to be a complete list but they have all been tried and are known to be hardy. Achillea, in variety Alyssum Saxatile Anemone, in variety Antennaria Tomentosa Aquilegia, in variety Arabis, in variety Arenaria Montana Armeria, in variety Artemisia Asclepias Tuberosa Aster alpinus Aubretia, in variety Auricula alpina Campanula, in variety Cerastium Colchicum Corydalis lutea Crocus Cypripedium Dianthus, in variety Delphinium Chinensis Delphinium Cardinale Dracocephalum Epimedium Macranthum Erigeron, in variety Erodium, in variety Funkia, in variety Galanthus Gaultheria Geranium, in variety Geum Gnaphalium Leontopodium Gypsophila repens Helianthemum Heuchera Iberis Iris Pumilla, in variety Linaria, in variety Linum Lobelia, Cardinalis Lobelia Syphilitica Lychnis Haageana Lychnis Viscaria splendens Lupines Mertensia Muscari Narcissus Nepeta Oenothera, in variety Pachysandra terminalis Papaver alpinum Papaver Nudicaule Phlox subulata Phlox Laphamii Phlox Amcena Platycodon Potentilla Primula Japonica Ranunculus Santolina Saponaria Saxifraga (Megasea) Scilla Sedum, in variety Sempervivum Senecio Silene Statice About the Greenhouses We Build OR over half a century we have been building greenhouses. _ Logically, then, we ought to know how greenhouses should be built. In that fifty and more years, we have built practically all kinds of glass enclosures, from garden cold frames at a few dollars each, to conservatories, glass enclosed sWimming pools, orchard houses, and even orange grove glass-ins, costing up into the thousands. It matters not whether Jou want just a small house, costing but a few hundred dollars, or one most preten- tious; we can give you a service and a Value that we think careful inVestigation will prove to you cannot be equalled. We should be glad to talk with you. Send for our “* Two G's Booklet, or Glass Gardens A Peep into their Delights.” Jord @BurnhamG, LIMITED OF CANADA Royal Bank Building Transportation Building TORONTO MONTREAL Factory : ST. CATHARINES, ONT. Boeths AS SUA aieg Sh aay T 0.2 °O .N Tage Thalictrum, in variety Philadelphus Lemoinei Ochrol- Thymus euca Trillium Ribes alpinum Trollius Rosa Wichuriana Tulips Spircea Anthony Waterer Veronica, in variety Spircea Callosa Alba Viola, in variety Lycium Europeum Vinca, in variety Tsuga Canadensis Yucca Abies Subalpina Berberis repens Picea Maxwelli Berberis Thunbergii Juniper sabina Deutzia Gracilis Juniper Communis Forsythia suspensa Juniper Communis Suesica Hypericum moserianum Pinus Mughos Kerria Japonica Pinus Sylvestris Globosa Viridus Lonicera Morrowi Pinus Cembra Lonicera Alberti Taxus Cuspidata Philadelphus Microphyllus Thuya, dwarf varieties HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS By Mr. Harry Simpson The chief consideration in the making of a border for Herbaceous plants, is the preparation of the soil. This is where success or failure emanates from and is so often overlooked by amateurs and also by some so called gardeners. It must be remembered that in making up a border for this purpose, that digging and manuring cannot be executed every fall and spring as it can be when only annuals are being bedded, so at the start, the border must be put into a condition that will supply nutriment for at least three years, with the aid of additional Lime and Fertilizers. Now as the successful cultivation of all plants depends primarily on the fertility of the soil, it is surprising how little attention is given to this all important factor. Many gardens are cropped year after year, and although it is well known that every flower produced removes from the soil large quantities of its most valuable constituents, it is seldom that any real scientific effort is made to replace them, and so keep the soil in a gener- ous condition. Many gardeners seem to think the fertility of the soil is inexhaustible, and others place their faith in stable manure alone. A few who study and understand their soil always seem to get good luck and appear in some miraculous way to escape the full effect of prolonged droughts, attacks of blight and disease, etc., which play havoc with their neighbors’ plants. Now this immunity from trouble is not luck at all, but simply the reward of knowledge.» A well nourished plant, either flower or vegetable, is always stronger than an ill nourished one of the same age and species. Consequently it is constitutionally better able to withstand the vagaries of the weather and repel the attacks of blight and disease than a weakling. 30 mo A OUT ULL er Pe OVOCRT, (Of Ni Tee It now remains to endeavour to explain how one may produce perfect flowers and get the maximum value out of the soil. In the first place it is necessary to know what plants are composed of before it is possible to cultivate beautifully colored, sweet-scented flowers. The four primary constituents found in plants are:—Lime, Nitrogen, Phosphoric Acid and Potash. There are others, but they are relatively of so little importance to the plant, and they are usually in the soil in such ample abundance, that we can almost dismiss them from our minds. We will now consider the above mentioned constituents, which determine the degree of fertility and productiveness of the soil by their presence or absence, and which are used up so quickly by the growing plants that even the richest soil loses its fertility unless they are systematically replaced. Lime is absolutely indispensible to all plant life, and, further- more, other Fertilizers are dependant upon it for their proper action. Chemically, it assists in the formation of Nitrates, frees latent Potash in heavier soils, acts upon vegetable acids and sweetens sour soils. Mechanically, it acts beneficially on light or sandy soils by bind- ing the loose particles together, and so makes the soil better able to resist drought, while on heavy soils it reduces the plasticity or binding nature and renders them more open, pliable and easier to work. It has been openly stated by more than one eminent authority that at least ninety per cent. of the failures in our flower, vegetable, and fruit gardens are wholly due to the deficiency of lime. When this element is not present, the soil becomes sour, acid, stagnant, so far as beneficial bacterial life is concerned and quite unresponsive to Fertilizers. Nitrogen is responsible for the growth and foliage of the plant, and it is safe to assume that it is not present in sufficient quantity if the plants are backward, stinted and their foliage yellow, unhealthy and quickly attract vermin. Phosphoric Acid supplies the necessary strength and stamina, without which it is. impossible for the plant to make its great effort in producing flowers or fruit. Potash gives quality to flowers and fruit, which are poor in color, unless the plant is able to get all the potash it may require. With the above information before one, it is easy to realise that it is no use spending money on plants and bulbs for a border, if the soil is in such a condition that it cannot produce perfect flowers. It is essential then to study the soil and first of all, the most important point is to ascertain if it contains sufficient lime to carry out its normal functions, and if it has not, to correct it by the application of lime. The next thing to be considered is the easiest way to determine whether lime exists in sufficient quantities in the soil or not. This is a very simple operation, all that is necessary being a piece of blue litmus paper, which can be obtained at a drug store. Take the piece of litmus paper and a spade insert the spade in the border and work it to and fro until the hole is wide enough to place the paper on one side of it, on the moist soil. If the paper reddens and remains so after drying, it shows the soil is acid and therefore deficient in lime. 31 Be Ey VAT SU ech ny T +0" “R208 N= aa Lime should be applied to the surface of the soil in the fall at the rate of about ten pounds to the square rod (3014 sq. yds.), and unless it is slacked by placing it in a soil covered heap, and so allowed to lose its heat, it will burn any foliage that it comes into contact with. To add the other three constituents to the soil, the best way for an amateur is to procure an artificial manure from a seedsman, with a guaranteed analysis, showing it contains the other necessary elements that the plant requires, but the amateur should be very careful when buying fertilizers, as many are put on the market at cheap rates and are dear at any price. Providing the correct fertilizer is being used it should be applied at least four times to a border of Herbaceous plants and bulbs during a season. Now for the selection of a site for a border. For preference, it should be made with a south easterly or southern exposure, although other aspects will give good results, such as western or southwesterly. The dimensions must be determined by the size of the lot, but should be from 40 to 50 feet in length, and at least 7 to 8 feet in width, to get a good and continuous show of flowers. The digging—an important operation—should be carried out in the following manner in October for preference. Remove the top-spit at one end of the border to the width of 18 inches and wheel it to the other end of the border where the finish will be made. By doing this the operator will have a trench 10 inches deep and 18 inches wide. Step into this trench and dig the subsoil the full depth of the spade, breaking up any lumps and removing all large stones or other rubbish. When this is done, throw into the trench about 8 inches of well rotted stable manure and dig it into the sub- soil, which has already been loosened. Next take another 18 inches wide of top-spit and throw it into the trench which has been dug and manured. ‘This will leave a trench showing the sub-soil again, which should be treated like the first portion, and so keep on until the border is finished. A border treated in this way will give good results. For the benefit of those not aware of it, the stable manure is added to the soil for the nitrogen it contains and also for Humus, without which, bacteria cannot live. The selection of plants is the next in order to take up, and the best time for planting both these and bulbs is October; excepting Gladiolus and they should be planted in the spring. It is a difficult matter to make a list of plants from the large numbers offered, that would be suitable and satisfactory for every border, and the best plan for those contemplating making a border is to take advantage of the offer made by most firms of repute, who place an expert at the disposal of their customers to give them the necessary advice. The following list of plants will be found suitable to make a selection from:—Aconitum, Alyssum, Anchusa, Anemone Japonica, Aguilegia (long spurred), Arabis Alpina, Armeria Maritima, Asclepias Tuberosa, Aster (Michaelmas Hardy Daisy), Aubretias, Boltonias, Campanulas, Canterbury Bells, Cerastium Tomentosum, Centaureas, Chelone, Chrysanthemums, Coreopsis, Delphinuin, Dianthus, Dielytra Spectabilis, Digitalis, Echinops Ritro, Funkia, Gaillardia, Geum, Geraniums, Gypsophila, Heleniums, Helianthus, Heliopsis, Hemerocale lis, Heucheras, Incarvillea Delavayi, Hollyhocks, Iris, Linum, Lupinus, 32 ESTABLISHED 1856 BULBS, SEEDS, PLANTS producing the most satisfactory re- sults in the harvest is what we sell. Our FLOWER SEEDS are grown by the most reliable growers and can be depended upon. Our PLANTS AND BULBS are the best obtainable. “ TORONTO PARKS ” LAWN GRASS SEED is the highest grade to be had anywhere, and is being used on the very best lawns. Our Catalogue for | 917 is now ready. : Ask fora copy. ao. A. SIMMERS LIMITED 141-151 KING ST. E. : TORONTO, ONT. BSE *e2As SU ee at aren T O'R °-O- N Sie Lychnis, Monarda, Didyma, Papavers, Physostegia, Platycodon, Convallaria Polygonatum, Pzonies, Phlox, Polemonium, Pyrethrum, Redbeckias, Scabrosa Caucasica, Sedum, Shasta Daisy, Statice, Stokesia, Sweet William, Thalictrum, Tritomas, Trollius, Veronicas, Viola Cornuta, etc., etc. To this list of plants must be added such bulbs as Darwin Tulips, Cottage Tulips, Breeder Tulips, and Rem- brandt Tulips, Crown Imperials and Liliums in variety; also Gladiolus (named varieties) of which two plantings should be made, i.e., the first one about the beginning of and another the last week of May. These corms require lifting at the approach of frost and storing in a cool dry cellar. All other bulbs mentioned may be left in the border. The Liliums and Gladiolus in particular should not be omitted from any border, as they flower at a time when other plants are a little shy at producing flower. Seeds of many of the above mentioned slates may be sown in July and August out of doors and pricked out into winter quarters later in the fall. The seedlings require covering in a similar manner to that reeommended for borders at the finish of this write up. Another important factor in the production of good plants and flowers is cultivation, which should be done with the hoe. The hoe would very often put a border in good condition during a spell of hot dry weather, but instead of the hoe it is more often the hose which is brought into use. This is a great mistake as, an inch or two of loose top soil (termed a soil mulch) will conserve more moisture in the border and do more good to the plants, than any amount of artificial watering. The best hoe for a perennial border is a five-inch “Dutch” (set on the handle at a proper angle), or if a very small one is required, a “Handy-andy”’ is the tool to use. In November when the last application of fertilizer should be made, and the border cleaned up generally, the soil should be forked over to the depth of about three inches, with a border fork made for the purpose. The last, but not the least important, is to be prepared with a nice lot of dry straw for the winter covering. This should be put on as soon as the ground freezes up hard and is likely to remain frozen. The next best thing to use in place of straw, is dry leaves, but do not use any material that will lay wet on the plants, or the loss of plants by winter killing will be much larger than if the air can get to them, as it can when a light litter is used. CARE OF HOUSE PLANTS By Mr. E. F. Collins It seems an old chestnut to talk about the ills of Palms, Ferns, Rubbers, Aspidestrius and such, and yet I know that when one has tended and cared for a favorite plant for six months or perhaps a year, they feel sorry when it gets into bad health, and there seems to be no remedy for it. I would advise the following in regard to the foliage plants, sponge and wash them once a week on both sides of the leaves, by so doing scale or red spiders could not get astart. Water often enough to keep the soil moist all the time, give fertilizer only 34 BakR’S DAFFODILS and MAY-FLOWERING TULIPS Groups of Darwin Tulips We have the finest collection in the world, and are the principal growers in Britain of Daffodils and May-Flowering Darwin and Cottage Garden Tulips. For Price List and Cultural Instructions, apply to our Canadian Agent Mr. WM. ALLEN, 10 Castle Frank Road, Toronto, Ontario BARR. & SONS Seedsmen, Bulb Growers and Nurserymen 11, 12, 13 King Street, Covent Garden, London, England Cable Address: BARR, London, England Be CE, SAG UW) ale ier Bago TD). -O; ORY (Oy NF ae during the summer month or growing season, when re-potting use a mixture of turfy loam, leaf soil and sand and pot fibre and place in plenty of drainage, endeavour to keep your plants in-as small pots as possible, they will be healthy and you may use smaller jardinieres. Keep all plants except Spireas away up from the bottom of the jardi- nieres, their roots will keep healthier and soil sweeter. The usual cause of most house plants becoming unhealthy during the winter months is first, lack of fresh air, absence of light and sunshine, hot dry atmosphere and often times use of the top of the soil as a receptical for stub ends of cigars, matches, etc., and occasionally used as a spittoon. No amount of horticultural or gardening knowledge will assist you to have good house plants unless you treat them right and the ladies that love plants must be prepared to let the sunshine into their houses, a reasonable temperature and fresh air. Too often in our modern Canadian houses the windows are small or darkened, the awnings and tapestries down a dim lighted library, hall or dining room all day and a blaze of artificial light all evening and temperature near to 75 or 80, and frequently the poor lone plant away in the corner never sees daylight for a week at a time, but because you take the trouble to water it every day you never seem to realize that it needs anything else. Plants, like people respond to care and attention or sicken and die with neglect. Watering is a stumbling block to many and the constant little dribbles just moistening the surface of the soil kills fifty per cent of the house plants to-day. Keep the surface con- stantly loosened up and when watering give sufficient to pass through the soil out of the bottom of the pot, is the only way to water plants and should you through neglect allow the soil to become quite dry, stand the plant in a pail of water just sufficient to cover the pot, allow it to remain a half an hour, then remove it and allow all surplus water to drain away before placing it back into the jardiniere. If you think all this is too much trouble and simply water the plant in the usual way the result possibly would be a very sick plant in a week or two, for the simple reason that after becoming very dry the soil shrinks away from the sides of the flower pot and all the water you give it in the meantime runs down the outside of the ball of earth and never moistens the interior, with the result of dried up and withered leaves of palms, ferns and aspidestrius, etc. The mischief is done before it becomes visible to the eye and your plant is spoiled for a season. The proper time for re-potting is in the spring months, say end of May, as at this time all plant life is breaking into new vigor, but be sure that you do not re-pot into too large a size, never more than an inch increase should be given, say from five to six inch, seven to eight, eight to nine and so on, unless it happens to be a*very large plant, then you must be guided by the condition of the roots, some plants such as Phenois Palms or Cordylines are what is known as gross feeders and will make more roots than top growth, if you give the room or too much stimulant, which is just as undesirable as an unhealthy condition. It is possible and quite safe to reduce this condition, if done at the proper season, say end of May, and the plant watered carefully and kept outside for the summer months, by: cutting away 36 The Fonthill Nurseries (Establshed 1837) Headquarters for High-Class ORNAMENTAL and SHADE TREES, FRUIT TREES EVERGREENS, SHRUBS, VINES, ROSES, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS, &c. SPRIG OF BARBERRY THUNBERGII SHRUBS FOR BLOSSOM, FOR FOLIAGE, HORS bRUG HT SRE DE BER REES SHRUBS FOR SHADY PLACES SHRUBS) (HOR SHE DIGE'S Send for New Descriptive Gatalogue Stone & Wellington - Toronto Phone Main 1109 BE Ay Une le heey, T O R O NOI a portion of the large fleshy roots and re-potting so as to get these top roots down into the soil. Ferns are to my mind the most useful and artistic plant you can have in the house and any of the Boston type are good, but | think Wittmani is the best, and if carefully treated and re-potted each spring it may last several years. A bright sunny window suits it admirably, and when watering do not pour over the Fronds, where they are together as it causes decay to set in; it is also a good plan to support a few of the large Fronds with a wire loop to allow light and air to the centre. Asparagus Plumosis Nancis make a splendid house plant, and will go on growing year after year with plenty of light, sunshine and pure atmosphere. It is also fairly free of insect pests, except scale, and that can be kept picked off by a weekly inspection. This I know to some people is a lot of trouble, but to the plant lover it is a pleasure, and they are the only ones who will succeed in keeping rare good plants because knowledge, care and attention will always win out. I want to mention a subject which is just at present very oppor- tune. The keeping over the winter of semi-hardy tub plants, Box- wood Bay trees, Lavich Euonymoius, etc. It is useless to try and keep these in good health for eight months in the hot dry atmosphere of the average home and equally useless in the average root cellar, although professional gardeners keep them there. I would advise standing them in a full light and sunny window of a cool attic room or any place in the light and when the thermometer does not rise above 45 or 50 and not lower than 30, give weekly watering of clear water only and on all mild days throw windows wide open. We frequently see to-day Evergreens also in tubs such as Juniper Retino- spara Cryptomeras. These while hardy will not stand our winter with the tub and roots exposed, or is it possible to expect them to survive a winter in the heated house. It is a good plan to give them a thorough watering sufficient to soak all the soil, then bury the tubs in a deep hole in a sheltered position in the garden filling the soil all around each tub to prevent the wind and frost from drying out the soil, then later on, say in December, pack a few dry leaves around and between the plants to act asa wind protection. It is the drying- out process which kills or injures many hardy plants and shrubs. To get back to house or window gardening, I wish we could encourage the use of a few of the common flowering plants, hundreds of people have grand windows for flowering plants but never use them, if the rows of pots or vases on the window sills are objectionable, then have window boxes with a metal lining made of the same wood as the house trimmings or furniture, then pots could then be stood in it and packed around with fresh clean moss which would help to keep the roots moist. Take and lift some of the outdoor geraniums, re-pot and cut back, stand in your nursery or sewing room window until they grow again then if placed in a southern or west window you would have a gay display of flowers after the turn of the year, from February until you could put them outside. Many of the Begonias are suitable for windows such as Luminosa and Aurea and many of the Red varieties. Bulbs should also become more generally grown as window plants. 35 HAWLMARK GOED MEDAL CHAMPION anno CELEBRATED Selon ROSES are the best obtainable, and are grown in every country in the world, where they give universal satisfaction. GENUINE only from the raisers and original firm of DICKSONS SEND FOR CATALOGUE MOST COMPLETE PUBLISHED ALEX. DICKSON & SONS LIMITED Hawlmark, Royal Nurseries NEWTOWNARDS - - IRELAND Seed Warehouses: HAWLMARK, BELFAST, DUBLIN Established 1836 BiB 3 Ace Ul tayles lab eey: T O- R O Nae Roman Hyacinths are splendid and so little trouble. The French Roman may be had in flower by the New Year, if planted at once, while the Dutch or Minature Roman will come into flower later, say February and March. Tressia Refacta Alba and other varieties may be grown in a bright sunny window ledge. Narcissus Golden Spur is the most serviceable varieties for the window garden. In Tulips I would recommend Yellow Prince, Cottage Maid, and Vermillion Brilliant. With regard to plant foods, I place great faith in animal manure and blood, but as these are objectionable for use on house plants the following make a good stimulant. | lb. of Nitrate of Soda | lb. of Sulphate of Ammonia. 116 lbs. of Sulphate of Potash. Place in glass bottle with sufficient water to completely dissolve and keep tightly corked. When ready use one teaspoonful to a gallon of water on your plants about once a week. One other trouble, worms in the flower pot is easily dispelled by watering with lime water two or three times in succession, giving sufficient to thoroughly saturate all the soil. You will find the worms will come to the top of the soil when they may be picked off. Sponging or spraying solution should be used frequently, | believe we have nothing better than nicotine, if it is used often, and for spray- ing warm soapy water. PICTURE PLANTING FOR THE SMALL MIXED BORDER By Miss Mary Yates The composition of seasonal pictures, to present a series of good effects in a border, is greatly facilitated by the use of colour in making the preliminary plans. Good balance is easily recognized if the colours selected are made to represent the different periods of bloom, and wonderful assistance is gained in this way while making effects to suit each particular season. For instance,— Green may signify that plants retain their size and shape through- out the season. Purple may signify that those plants are late bloomers and prevail over the early frosts. Red may signify that bloom in a given position may be depended upon to show in Summer, that is, from the middle of July to the middle of August. Blue may mean the first flowers of the year, And so on to suit the gardener’s particular requirements. 40 oe Ula tly Beaver’ Ti O- BE O Ne EO The following diagramatic chart illustrates the principals and shows a simple plan of five pictures in a border measuring twenty-five feet by six feet, the front of which can of course be curved to suit the taste. Each square is considered as equal to one foot. GROUPS SHADED AS FOLLOWS. REPRESENT COLOURS RED Gay CREEN eS | PURPLE Ey BLUE The material used in planting depends largely on the purse, which means that the rarer varieties cost more. In this particular instance expensive plants have not been used and the following list is readily obtainable at reasonable figures. It will be seen at a glance that the Green Groups represent the frame work as it were of the whole, the other pictures coming and going in their respective seasons. Planting list for mixed border:— Green Groups— (a) Evergreen shrub. May be one of the Junipers. (b) Spring Flowering Shrub, as Lilac of good variety, or Spirea. (c) Peony, “La Rosiere,’’ exquisite semi-double cream. (d) Peony, “Clairs Dubois,” rich double pink. (e) Iris, ‘““Pallida Dalmatica,”’ finest lavender. (f) Iris, “Madame Chereau,”’ white veined with violet-blue. (g) Berberis Thunbergii. (h) Gypsophila. Both single and double plants were used in order to prolong the season of soft feathery effect. Red Groups (Summer picture)— 1. Hollyhocks (double pink). Or Campanula persicifolia. 2. Tall Hybrid Delphiniums. 3. Shorter Delphiniums, blooming early, as Belladonna and Formosum or Bocconia cordata. 4. Heuchera, Sanguinea, pink. 5. Phlox, “Elizabeth Campbell,”’ pink or Von Lassburg. Purple Groups (Fall picture) 6. Helenium “Riverton Beauty,”’ lemon yellow, in front of which may be tucked in a few Hemerocallis Thunbergii. 7. Perennial Aster, ““Feltham Blue.” 8. Perennial Aster, ‘Perry's Blue,’’ coming into bloom earlier than No. 7. 9. Perennial Aster, “Climax,” a tall late lavender. 41 Be BE. AS Uae eee ey: T O R O N Gage 10. Phlox, “Bertha,” rich late crimson. Very effective in a mass near the Asters. Or ‘“‘Mahdi,’’ a handsome deep purple Phlox. Aster amellus, ““Precioza,’ violet-blue. Or Aster ericoides, “Enchantress,” sprays of tiny white flowers, handier apparently than the Amellus type. Blue Groups (Spring flowering)— 12. Alyssum Saxatile, yellow. 13. Arabis (rock cress). Both the single and the double varieties were used to prolong the season of earliest white bloom. 14. Phlox Divaricata Canadensis, a charming blue, one foot high. Groups outlined in Black— A very fine, last effect is gained by the glorious flaming of Thun- bergii Barberry (g) next the creamy brown swords of the fading Iris foliage, (e) and (f) both shown up to perfection against the sombre evergreen backing (a) and the grey carpet of Alyssum foliage (12). A Corner of Mr. P. H. Mitchell's Garden | Glorious Gardens From England TUTTE Cee KELWAY’S FAMOUS HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS, GAILLARDIAS, PAEONIES, PYRETHRUMS, DELPHINIUMS and others—are from strong country- grown stocks, which flourish under almost all conditions of soil and climate, and make it possible to reproduce im your country much of the charm and beauty of the finest old English gardens, especially when arranged as KELWAY’S COLOR BORDERS Kelway’s Hardy Perennial Plants have met with the greatest success in Canada Our NEW GLADIOLI are unequalled in the world. Write for our SPECIAL WAR PRICES TRADE WITHIN THE EMPIRE UC KELWAY & SON (RETAIL PLANT DEPARTMENT) LANGPORT, SOMERSET, ENGLAND Be Ry JAt Ui Sis eles sy T OCR O | N Bo THE DAHLIA By Mr. Jas. S. Wallace The Dahlia in its wild state was known to Europeans in Mexico as early as the year 1600, and in 1615 was described and illustrated by Francisco Hernandez in his book “The Plants and Animals of New Spain.”” It was no doubt abundant then as now in its native habitat—the Mexican Highlands and mountain sides 5,000 feet above the Sea—and was known by the natives as “‘Acocotli.”’ The flowers of red, yellow and purple, consisted of a single row of flat petals about a central disk of yellow florets, and were small to medium in size, resembling our Cosmos and Coreopsis to which it is closely related. Pzony Flowered Dahlia In 1789 the director of the Mexican Botanic Garden sent seeds of the plant to director Cavanilles of the Royal Gardens at Madrid, from which the latter grew not only single but semi-double flowers. In 1791, he published a figure and description of the semi-double form and named it Dahlia in honor of M. Andre Dahlan— eminent Swedish botanist of that period. From this modest beginning the Dahlia has since passed through one of the most wonderful developments known in floriculture, and to-day it probably shows a greater diversity in form, color, habit and 44 oe ee = meek 6 6lOlUCUCUdEC lUrUCUY¥ OR Ra ©” N26 yO size than any other species known to the florist. Easy of cultivation adapted to a wide range of soils and conditions with plants of a size and habit to suit almost any garden, and with a long season of bloom, it is not surprising that the Dahlia is so popu- lar in England, and is rapidly coming to the front in America. Many fields of from five to one hundred acres may be seen in New England States to-day, and at the Government Exper- iment Station at Gen- Cactus Dahlia—Straight Petals eva, N.Y.., Prof. Hall grew more than 1,600 varieties last year. English Dahlia Societies maintain gardens where growers send their choicest varieties to be tested in competition. The Dahlia has been grown in England since 1802, and the present form of the Show or Ball-Shaped variety since 1840. The flatter decorative form was re-introduced and be- came popular about 1870. Cactus varie- ties appeared in the early eighties and the Collarette (origin- ated in France)about 1901. The Pzony- flowered came the preceding year from Holland, and is the result of crossing the cactus and single varieties. The modern forms of the Cactus and Pzony-flowered vari- eties are compara- tively little known in Canada, and garden lovers who have tired of the old-fashioned ball-shaped flowers Single Dahlia BPE PAL Oa lee lees Haseena. T O R 0 Nose may find keen enjoyment in growing tested varieties of other forms— some of which are named in this article. Before making selections, see the plants in bloom, if possible, and where space is available do not limit the number of types to be grown, as the greater the variety of form and color the more lasting will be the interest and pleasure obtained from their culture. Soil and Location Dahlias seem to do equally well in a variety of soils, although sandy loam is considered best. It must not be too rich or the gardener will have foliage instead of bloom. The location must be well drained, open to the sun and a free circulation of air, but protected from high winds. Do not plant near trees or shrubs— shade and excessive water- ing will produce bushy plants with very few flowers, and these usually hidden by foliage. The Dahlia loves cool nights, and does particu- larly well in the vicinity of bodies of water. Preparation When possible, prepare your ground in the Fall, and dig over again in Spring and allow it to mellow before planting. Dig deeply—at least a foot —and give the plant roots a chance to reach moist cool earth when the hot days come. If soil is light, add old manure at first digging, Pzony Flowered Dahlia but if heavy a liberal addi- tion of coal ashes or sand will improve it. Manure from sheep stables is very good and one prominent grower uses bone meal and potash as fertilizer with success. Old manure helps to retain moisture in the soil but when not available use two parts of wood ashes to one of bone meal, or a com- plete potatoe fertilizer. A top dressing of lime (without manure) is sufficient for some heavy soils. Never use lime and manure together. 46 Berea 6 6UCUThCUdETCUCrEECCUCUY ie OO} (REROD Ni ae. Planting Planting time varies with locality, but where only a few plants are grown the first of June is recommended. Never plant in cold soil. Where possible, divide your stock of tubers and plant May 15th, June Ist and June 15th, and if a hot dry summer follows, the early planting may suffer from excessive heat at blooming time, while the later ones will enjoy a succession of bloom. Where early bloom is desired, start the tubers inside (in pots or boxes) in late April and trans- plant to the garden when danger of frost is passed. Collarette Dahlia If plants become blasted or hardened by the heat, cut them down, and one or two strong stalks may be grown from the remaining root system to give you excellent flowers before the season ends. Space plants about three feet apart and allow one stalk (or never more than two) in each place. In America whole tubers or pot roots are planted, while in England shoots or cuttings are favored. The size of the tuber does not indicate either the size or quality of bloom, but it must have at least one eye. « Do not divide the field clumps until the sprouts appear, but if latter are two inches long, cut them off half an inch from base before planting, as a stronger sprout will quickly develop. 47 BE A U T AwvF YT 0 R270 Nee In planting makea trench five or six inches deep, place tuber on its side in bottom of furrow, cover with two inches of soil and gradually fill in level as stalk develops. Never al- low crowns to be ex- posed. If soil is heavy and wet, surround the tu- ber with clear sand to prevent rot. It is a good plan to place the stakes when tuber or plant is put out. Give a good water- ing at planting time, Show or Ball-Shaped Dahlia but ou bsequent watering must be governed by conditions. An occasional rain will keep the plants in good shape, but if a dry period comes give plants a thorough soaking once a week. Make hill around them to hold the water. Frequent sprinkling is harmful. After budding time, water may be more freely used without injury. Do not wet blooms when watering. Keep soil about plants cultivated after every rain or watering— never allow ground tocake. A little soot or slacked lime about young shoots will keep away cut worms. When plants are a foot high tie securely to the stake with rafha or soft cord, and renew the fastening as plant develops. If a stocky growth is desired, remove centre bud when plant has three pairs of leaves. This will delay blooming somewhat but will not hurt the plant. When the buds appear use a mulch of old manure—three inches deep—or where this is not obtainable mulch with grass clippings, leaves, or fine straw and give plants weak manure water (after watering) every ten days. The mulch conserves the moisture and Saves watering. Decorative Dahlia 48 Poe A OU T | F Y¥ ie (OF sR @OnR UN” = mAcH A ROSE GARDEN CALENDAR By MR. P. H. MITCHELL The New Year has started and your enthusiasm is afresh. Read Dean Hole’s ““A Book about Roses.’’ Read the advertise- ments in this year's Year Book and send for Rose catalogues and become thoroughly submerged in them. The rose garden plan must be worked on and with some care it can be made a real gar- den. There should be a comfortable garden seat worked into the scheme of things; be sure that it will hold two people. The Hybrid Teas will be in the majority in your garden. Toronto has a perfect climate for all Hybrid Teas, Caroline Testout, Madame Ravary and Richmond should not be forgotten. Your rose list must be prepared and mailed. Don’t be misled by local controversies about roots; nearly all roses are best budded on briar stocks. Study your Rose Garden Plan and know where you will plant the new roses. Each rose has an individual habit of growth which should be studied to discover its best place in the garden, its system of pruning and its idiosyncrasies. You of course have included those Hybrid Perpetuals, Mrs. John Laing, Paul Neyron, Hugh Dickson and Ulrich Brunner in the list. At last real work in the garden has arrived. Prune the H. P.’s about the middle of the month. Each variety—and each bush—is a study in itself but in general all thin shoots are cut out and others are shortened. Study a good authority on pruning; excellent hand books are ‘Pictorial Practical Rose Growing” by W. P. Wright and “‘Rose Growing for Amateurs,” by H Thomas. To get best results you should thoroughly know your rose. Tea Roses, although not hardy, must be grown. A garden 1s not complete without Lady Hillingdon, Lady Roberts and Mrs. Foley Hobbs and many of their friends. April is a busy month. All roses must be uncovered, the climbers arranged on their supports, and the pruning must be finished. Your new roses will have arrived; these must be planted; the union of the budded rose and the stock must be about three inches below the surface. Spread out the roots well and be sure that the roots are not in contact with the manure. Don't forget to order some Moss Roses. The Common Moss, ~ > - . ~ “7. Comptesse de Murinais and Gracilis, are good. May work plays a most important part in the life of the Rose. Spray the ground and the bushes with Bordeaux mixture to check fungoid diseases such as Mildew and Black Spot. Spray with an insecticide as a preventive against aphis once a week from the first of May on through the Summer. When the buds have formed begin copiously feeding the roots with weak liquid manure. General McArthur is the best Crimson Hybrid Tea. June is the month of Roses. Cultivate the ground; spray and feed the Roses. Use an arsenate of lead spray once a week during June to stop rose beetle and rose slug or if thoroughly done hand picking will suffice. Disbud if you want perfect flowers by pinching out the two side buds in each cluster of three as soon as formed. Cutting of the roses helps the bush. Show your Roses at the Society's Exhibition and get First Prize. Conrad Meyer is a sturdy Rose smothered with immense pink blossoms—and thorns. 4 ie ag A ROSE GARDEN CALENDAR BY MR. P, H, MITCHELL The Roses are at their best the first week in July and there will be a feast of them for the whole month. Spray and cultivate. Mulch with cut grass or manure if the weather is dry. Feed well as most of the Roses will keep blooming for several months. The majority of Climbing Roses bloom only in July. American Pillar is one of the most striking climbers. Most of the Teas and Hybrid Teas will have produced their second crop of roses early in August. Spray, cultivate and feed. If well mulched artificial watering is not necessary. Always look out for suckers from the Briar Roots and carefully cut these off as close to the roots as possible. Show roses at the Society's August Exhibition. One of the most charming roses in the garden is Zephyrine Dronhin—the old Thornless Rose. September is the best Fall month for Roses and while the quantity of bloom may not be so great as in June the perfection of colour, form and perfume of September can hardly be surpassed Mildew and blackspot are the worst enemies this month but if the spraying has been faithfully done, fungoid troubles will be a minimum. Cut rose slips of ripened wood and root them in sand, preferably in a position where they will be undisturbed for a year. Go over your roses and think of your rose list for next year. Frau Karl Druschki is the best white Rose but alas! it has no perfume. Still the Roses bloom gaily and how precious the Fall blooms are. This is a good month to prepare next year’s beds. Stiff soil must be broken up, manured and drained. Light soil will be better thickened with clay and well manured. See that the location of your roses is marked on a plan as during winter, labels may be lost or misplaced. Can anything compare with the opening buds of Irish Elegance? The few November blooms seem to be worth the whole Rose Garden and solemn promises will be made as to the Rose Garden of next year. But with the first hard freezing the Roses must be put to bed for the winter. A good rule to follow is to protect the rose so that it will not thaw until real spring comes. Dwarf roses must be hilled up with earth and standards, climbers and larger bush roses bent down to the ground and covered with earth. The Hybrid Rugosa need no protection. What could be daintier than those continually blooming Polyantha Roses, Jessie and Phyllis? The preparation for wintering must be completed and the Hybrid Rugosas should be lashed to supports to keep them from thrashing to pieces. All leaves and garden debris should be re- moved and burnt and every precaution taken during Fall to check the spread of mildew and black spot and thus the work of next year will be lessened. The garden plan may be thought of and will demand lots of study. Include some of next year’s Rose bushes on your Christmas list. In three months it will be Spring. S Je P iD E M B E R O C c O B E R N O Vv E M B Ee R D E Cc E M B 13 R A weeping standard of Dorothy Perkins is always a Be EAS a pie hey T Oo R ON Vie METHODS TO ADOPT TO CUT BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITIONS Roses Roses for exhibition purposes, aside from climbers, are in the Hybrid Perpetual and Hybrid Tea classes. The recently developed Pernetiana class is rightfully acceptable under Hybrid Teas. The Roses are generally shown, arranged in vases with sufficient foliage on their stems to best display the Rose. While the flower itself obtains the points in judging, a pleasing arrangement in the vases should be obtained. The meriting points in the Rose are: Large size, purity and richness of colouring or delicate shading, according to the variety; breadth and substance of petal; regular shape; full centre poise of petals; clean, healthy foliage. Named varieties to be neatly and cor- rectly labelled. The faults are: Fully expanded; hollow-centred blooms; weather stains; lack of colour or purity; split or divided centre; overdressed flower and unnaturally reflexed petals, mutilated petals; collections of unevenly sized blooms. The Exhibition Rose may be assisted during its formation on the bush, by the use of fertilizers; by dis-budding; by shading from the sun and weather, and may be retarded by loosely tying the opening bud with a woolen strand. By Percival H. Mitchell. Annuals and Perennials When the weather is dry and hot, blooms will wilt quickly and are not easily revived, some not at all when left out of water any length of time. If left out of water for five minutes there will be a five minutes’ air space in the stem in place of sap. The evaporation is still going on, the air space will rise until it reaches the bloom, when they will wilt, or go to sleep, as the florist calls it. As a preventative of this, the flowers should be placed in water as soon as they are cut, by carrying a vessel full of water for the purpose. By following this example, you may cut flowers for exhibition purposes twelve to twenty-four hours before exhibiting them. The writer has cut and brought flowers to the Industrial Exhibition all the way from Niagara Falls in good condition, cut two days before exhibiting. The most advisable time to cut blooms is early in the morning or late in the evening, then bunch them up and label them, when they may be placed in a cool cellar until ready for the exhibition. By Roderick Cameron. Cut flowers remain fresh for such a very brief time that any means of prolonging their life is eagerly welcomed by the flower lover. Many experiments have been tried along this line by modifying the water in which the flowers are placed. Thus roses, carnations, orchids have been found to keep three times as long if a small quantity of sugar is added to the water. This is taken up and helps to keep the cells 56 _—— ee Merryweather’s Roses are noted through- out the world. They are cheap; they are true to name; the trees are strong and sturdy; the newest novelties and all the old favorites in stock. Roses for Garden Roses for Exhibition Roses for Beds Roses for Everywhere Nurseries: SOUTHWELL, ENGLAND Fruit trees of all kinds to select from. A grand stock of Shrubs and Ornamental Trees. Herbaceous plants in great variety. Please state your wants and Catalogue full of interesting matter with Quotations will be supplied post free on application. M. A. BRUSH Sole Agents for Dominion of Canada Telephone Main 3480 20 Wellington Street W. - TORONTO Bs Bs cAt eUeaasly leh aay T °-O--R 20 Ne oa of the flower from collapsing, and thus wilting. A small lump of starch has also been found beneficial. Other flowers begin to bleed as soon as they are cut, and the precious sap running out of thestem causes the cells to collapse immediately. To prevent this, the end of the stem must be quickly closed, and this is best done by searing in a flame, or by placing directly in hot water. For corsage bouquets the sear- ing pecs is best, although a little tedious, as each stem must be so treate When flowers are placed in hot water, the water will immediately become discolored and unsightly, but a pottery vase overcomes this difficulty, and also prevents accidents, likely to occur were the hot water placed in a glass vase. There are many flowers which can be successfully treated by this process, namely, dahlias, heliotrope, Shirley poppies, nasturtiums, and maiden-hair fern. The florists of California go so far as to boil the stems of the brilliant Poinsettias, or Christmas flowers, for which they are so famous. The stem is first stuck through a large sheet of paper to prevent the steam from rising directly into the flower and injuring it. Carnations and Chrysanthemums will keep twice as long if placed in fresh water daily, and a small piece is clipped from the ends of the stems each time. While cutting this piece off, keep the stem under water so that no air bubbles are allowed to enter the stalk and thus retard the upward flow of water. (3) 15). 7 ORS ne Gia bY; Te (Owe Re ON se bueO Toronto Horticultural Society Life Members Adams, J. H., 25 we ie Ave. Adams, Mrs. J. H., 25 Maynard Ave. Alexander, D. W., 67 Binscarth Rd. Allan, Mrs. A. A., 97 St. George St. Archibald, J. W., 122 Deleware Ave. Atkinson, C. J., Out of Town. Atkinson, J. E., ail Warren Road. Atkinson tee ap 237 Warren Road. Austin, A. W., 620" ‘Confederation Life Building. Austin, J. F., 65 Oriole Road. Baldwin, C. M., Dunvegan Rd. and Lonsdale Rd. Baldwin, Geo., 738 Dovercourt Road. Baldwin, Dr. J. M., 31 Delisle Ave. Baldwin, Mrs. J. M., 31 Delisle Ave. Baldwin, L. H., Forest Hill Road. Baldwin, Mrs. L. H., Forest Hill Road. Barr, Mrs. W. J., 99 Walmer Road. Beardmore, A. O. T., Acton West, Ont. Beer, G. Frank, 54 Glen Road. Beer, Mrs. G. Frank, 54 Glen Road. Bishop, C. P., 336 Russell Hill Road. Bishop, Mrs. C. P., 336 Russell Hill Rd. Blake, Mrs. H., 449 Jarvis Street. Bredin, Mark, 26 Delisle Ave. Bredin, Mrs. Mark, 26 Delisle Ave. Brereton, fee R. L., 25 Admiral Road. Brigden, F. H., 103 Rose Ave. Burden, C. E., 494 Avenue Rd. Burnside, Mrs. J. L., 182 Lowther Ave. Caldwell, H., 192 Jarvis St. Cameron, Mrs. J. E., 89 Macpherson Ave. Campbell, Mrs. C. J., 62 Balsam Ave. Candee, C. N., 39 South Drive. Candee, Mrs. C. N., 39 South Drive. Chisholme, T. A., 323 Sherbourne St. Christie, R. J., 29 Queen's Park. Christie, Mrs. R. J., Queen's Park. Clarke, Mrs. A. R., 72 Roxboro St., E. Clemes, Mrs. W. H., 123 South Drive. Connon, Wm., 71 Roxboro St., W. Connon, Mrs. Wm., 71 Roxboro St., Craig, Wm., 6 Drumsnab Ra. Croft, Wm. E., 45 Glen Road. Cummings, C. C., Lumsden Building. Deacon, F. H., 158 Crescent Road. Deacon, Mrs. F. H., 158 Crescent Road. Dinnick, Lt.-Col. W. S., 3429 Yonge St. Dinnick, Mrs. W.S., 3429 Yonge St. Diver, Fred, 325 Jarvis St. Ww. Dobie, Wm., 157 South Drive. Dobie, Mrs. Wm., 157 South Drive. Douglas, W. M., Gordon Mackay, Bay and eee Streets. Dunlap, D. A., 93 Highlands Ave. Dunlap, Mrs. D. A., 93 Highlands Ave. , Sir J. 480 Davenport Road. ; ae 480 Davenport Road. Baton, R. 150 Farnham Ave. Eaton, R. 230 Russell Hill Rd. Raton, Mrs. R. Y., 230 Russell Hill Rd. Baton, Mrs. T., 182 Lowther Ave. Edmonds, C. B., 34 Crescent Rd. Englehart, J. L., 56 Church St. Evans, J. T., 180 Howland Ave. Evans, W. J., 161 Walmer Rd. Falvey, Patrick, ‘‘Oaklands'’, Avenue Road Hill. Fensom, Geo. H., 50 Bay St. Fenton, Wilson, 44 Main St., E. Toronto. Firstbrook, Mrs. J., Lawrence Park. Poor: J., Lawrence Park. Flavelle, W., Queen's Park. Flavelle, ie. Gare Queen's Park. Fleming, R. J., Bathurst and St. Clair. eed Mrs. R. J., Bathurst and St. air. Fox, W. Claude, Board of Trade Bldg. Frind, H. O., Gage, W. J., 358 Bloor St. West. Gagnier, Harry, Graphic Arts Bldg. George, W. K., 71 Highlands Ave. Gibbons, J. J., 120 Roxboro St., East. Gibbons, Mrs. J. J., 120 Roxboro St., Godfrey, J. M., 72 Lowther Ave. Godfrey, Mrs. J. M., 72 Lowther Ave. Goldsmith, Dr. P. G., Overseas. Gooderham, J. L., 6 Deer Park Crescent. Gooderham, W. G., 42 Elm Ave. Gooderham, Mrs. W. G., 42 Elm Ave. Goodman, A. K., 611 Lumsden Bldg. Gordon, J. M., 29 Woodlawn Ave., W. Green, W. H., 102 Bedford Road. Greig, E.R., The Art Museum, Grange Road. Gundy, J. H., Winter: 43 Russell Hill Road, Summer: Oakville, Ontario. Gundy, Mrs. J. H., Winter: 43 Russell Hill ee Summer: Oakville, Ont. E. 26 Gundy, W. , 4 Hawthorne Gardens. Gundy, Mrs. P., 4 Hawthorne Gardens. Hall, J. E., 28 Toronto St. Hall, Prof. T. H., New York Experiment- al Station, Geneva, N. Harcourt, Mrs. F. W., 235 Russell Hill Road. Harvey, Mrs. P. E., 101 Roxboro St., E. Heintzman, Gerhard, 164 Bloor St. E. Heintzman, H., 195 Yonge St. Holmested, A. W., 65 Beatty Ave. Hynes, Wm. J., 109 Castle Frank Rd. Jarvis, Mrs. A., 34 Prince Arthur Ave. Jarvis, F. C., 3093 Yonge St. Jephcott, A., 63 Cluny Ave. Jephcott, Mrs. A., 63 Cluny Ave. Jephcott, Wm. C., 2 Clarendon Crescent Johnston, Hugh, 55 Radford Ave. Jones, Lady L. M., 145 St. George St. Kemp, Mrs. W. A., 49 Highlands Ave. King, S., 235 Poplar Plains Rd. Kitchen, Hy., 21 Spadina Rd. Laidlaw, R. A., 65 Yonge St. Legge, W. H., 72 Rusholme Rd. Legge, Mrs. W. H., 72 Rusholme Rad. Love, H. H., 780 Davenport Rd. Love, Mrs. H. H., 780 Davenport Rd. Lowndes, C. B., 144 Front St., West. Lowndes, J. M., 144 Front St., West. Macfadden, J. A., 27 Chicora Ave. MacInnes, B. S., 238 Poplar Plains Rd. Ses ANS Major W. G., 19 Melinda t Mackendrick, Mrs. W. G., 19 Melinda St. Marshall, Noel, 623 Sherbourne St Martin, John, 67 Lowther Ave. Martin, Wm., 67 Lowther Ave. Massey, C. D., 519 Jarvis St. Matson, J. W., 444 Gladstone Ave. McGee, Harry, 61 Forest Hill Rd. McGee, Mrs. Harry, 61 Forest Hill Rd. McMahon, Mrs. F., 352 Walmer Rd. Hill McMillan, Alex. L.. 375 Crawford St McNaught, W. K., 614 Huron St. McNaught, Mrs. W. K., 614 Huron St. Meredith, Sir Wm. R., 41 Binscarth Rd. Meredith, Lady, 41 Binscarth Rd. Millar, J. M., 72 Woodbine Ave. Mitchell, H. B., 4 Binscarth Rd. Nairn, Mrs. S., carth Rd. Northway, J. Ac 3 Farnham Ave. Northway, John, 7) S eliewren St., W. B OB Ae i ie le YG T O-. R ON Vie O’Brian, J. B., 7 Thornwood Rd. O’Brian, Mrs. J. B., 7 Thornwood Rd. Ormsby, CJS See Forest Hill Rd. Osler, Sir Edmund, 152 South Drive. Pellatt, Col. Sir Hy. M., ‘‘Casa Loma”’ Pellatt, Mill, 47 Giencairn Ave. Pellatt, Mrs. Mill, 47 Glencairn Ave. Reid, A. T., 30 South Drive Reid, Mrs. A. T., 30 South Drive. Rennie, Thos., West Market and King. Robinette, T. C., 60 Spadina Rd. Robinette, Mrs. T. C., 60 Spadina Rd. Roden, Frank, 1 Clarendon Crescent. Roden, Mrs. Frank, 1 Clarendon Cres- cent. Roden, Themes 127 net Ave.. Rolph, Mrs. , W. es Fi8o ‘Logan Ave. Mrs. 235 Warren Rd. 112 St. George St. Russell, J., 437 Jarvis St. Rutter, A. F., 401 King St., W Ryrie, Ryrie, Ryrie, Ryrie, Shaw, H., 1 Highlands Ave. Mrs. H., 1 Highlands Ave. James, 400 Jarvis St. Mrs. James, 400 Jarvis St. Geo. B., 307 Blythewood Rd. Shaw, Mrs. Geo. B., 307 Blythewood Rd. Simpson, W. C., 429 Walmer Rd. Sutherland, Miss M. C., Bracondale P.O. Sweeny, G 197 Spadina Ave. Sydere, A. a Parliament Buildings. Thomson, J. B. Mrs., 151 Rusholme Rd. Vigeon, Harry, 134 Bloor St. E. Walker, Mrs. J. A., 93 Spadina Rd. Wallace, J. S., 12 Wellington St. E. Warren, Mrs. H. D 5 Wellesley Place. Warren, Mrs. T., 56 Dunvegan Road. Warwick, Geo. R., 178 St. George St. Watson, R., 234 St. George St. Wickett, S. R., 124 Isabella St. Wilkie, Geo., 287 Russell Hill Drive. Wilkie, Mrs. Geo., 287 Russell Hill Drive. Woodland, C. W.I., 616 Avenue Rd. Woodland, Mrs. C. W.I., 616 Avenue Rd. Honorary Members Patterson, Mrs. T. A., Ellesmere, Ont. Scott, Rev. A. H., President Ontario Horticultural Society, Perth, Ont. Utley, Miss, Wilson, J. Lockie, Parliament Bldgs. 111 Edgewood Ave. List of Annual Members Abbott, E., 19 Park Road. Abbott, Mrs. G., 1588 Danforth Ave. Abbs, R. J., 218 Rusholme Rd. Acheson, J. A., 427 Walmer Rd. Adam, Mrs. G. G., 160 St. George St. Adams, M. F. D., 60 Binscarth Rd. Adamson, A. D., 34 Vermont Ave. Agar, C. J., 126 Seaton St. Aikins, Mrs. W. H. B., 134 Bloor St. W. Aitchison, D. C., 216 Montrose Ave. Alcock, T. B., 182 Fern Ave. Alcock, Mrs. T. B., 182 Fern Ave. a tae Prof. W. J., 178 High Park Ave. Allan, Miss L., 97 St. George St. Allan, Herbert W., 167 St. Clair Ave. W. , Miss M. sb fe Heath St. W. Mrs. T. 3 McMaster Ave. ; Beaierd Sa Park. , Geo. C., 31 Palmerston Gardens. Wm., 152 South Drive. , T., 60 Forest Hill Road. Alley, W. Sanford, 16 Elm Ave. Alley, Mrs. W. Sanford, 16 Elm Ave. Allingham, Arthur, 26 Bain Ave. Ames, A. E., ‘ ‘Glen Stewart’’ Kingston Road. Ames, Mrs. A. E., ‘‘Glen Stewart’’ Kingston Road. Ames, N. F., 65 Glen ops Ave. W. Anderson, Miss A. D., 47 Alhambra Ave. Anderson, E. H., 181 Gabtinehnen St. Anderson, Geo., 167 Lowther Ave. Anderson, J. E., 1 Nina St. Anderson, Mrs. SE E., 1 Nina St. Anderson, Miss Joan, 88 Spadina Rd. Andrews, Miss J., 177 Collier St. Anglin, Miss H. C., 55 Dupont St. Annandale, A. W., 47 Edgewood Ave. Archibald, W., 258 St. Partick St. Armour, Miss’M., 103 Avenue Rd. Armstrong, Mrs. F., 296 Berkeley St. 60 Armstrong, W. S. B., 92 Riverdale Ave. Ashby, Alf. H., 220 Riverdale Ave. Ashby, Victor, Swansea, Ont. Ashdown, V. E., 744 Yonge St. Austin, Miss Adele H., 65 Oriole Road. Baillie, J. E., 141 Farnham Ave. Baines, R. A., 12 Madison Ave. Baird, Mrs. = P., 99 Jamieson pe Baird, Mrs. H. N., 32 Heath St. Baird, Miss K., Hospital for Sick W Gnild- ren. Baker, Geo. A., 46 Nanton Ave. Baker, Mrs. Geo. A., 46 Nanton Ave. Baker, J. C., 333 Palmerston Ave. Baker, Mrs. J. C., 333 Palmerston Ave. Baker, Mr., 78 Colborne St. Baker, Mrs. W. H., Glen Grove Ave. E. Baldwin, Miss, 196 Brunswick Ave. Baldwin, Miss B., ‘‘Annarva’’ Dunvegan Rd. Baldyses E. St. Geo., Dr. 86 St. George Baldwin, Mrs. E. St. Geo., 86 St. George St. Ball, Dr. Walton, 22 College St. Banigan, J., Douglas Drive. Bannon, R. H., 161 Pearson Ave. Barber, Mrs. Henry, 88 St. Albans St. Barber, Miss, 88 St. Albans St. Barber, W., Jr., 106 Roncesvalles Ave. Barbour, D., 561 Clinton St. Barbour, Mrs. pet Clinton St. Barnard, Mrs. Ww. 17 Roxboro St. W. Barnett, Mrs. J., 6a “Gloucester St. Barrett, Wallace, 77 Chestnut Park Rd. Barron, a Elsie, 3 West Charles St. Barton, T. 840 Davenport Rd. Batt, C. W., A549 High Park Ave. Batts, Ltd., 374 Pacific Ave. Bauckham, Mrs. C., 253 Wright Ave. Beadle, Miss S. E., 172 Ossington Ave. mere A U T iI F Y Tae On eRe ORIN st O —————— Beardmore, A. O., 75 St. George St. Beardmore, G. W., 136 Beverley St. Beardmore, Miss =. L., Port Credit, Ont. Beardmore, Wm. 297 Russell Hill Rd. Beatty, Miss F., 50. Maitland St. A. S., 113 Roxboro St. W. W., 16 Hawthorne Ave. H., Barrie, Ont. Bertram, Geo. M., 46 Montclair Ave. Bertram, M., Westmount Drive. Best, T. H., 90 Dunvegan Rd. Bethel, Frank, 318 Russell Hill Rd. Bethune, H. W., 156 St. George St. ee Miss Marion, 188 Balmoral ve Beynon, D. E., 80 Hogarth Ave. Biette, A. C., 256 Rusholme Rd. Biggar, G. C., 77 Charles St. E. Biggar, ae G. C., 77 Charles St. E. Bigwood, E., 145 South Drive. Bigwood, Mie Ww. 145 South Drive. Bishop, C. H., 185 Roxboro St., E. Bishop, Mrs. C. 185 Roxboro St., E. Black ock, Miss M. E., 54 Salem Ave. (Summer) Meadowvale, Ont. Blain, Hugh, 42 Clarendon Ave. Blain, Mrs. Hugh, 42 Clarendon Ave. Blake, Hume, 49 Clarendon Ave. Blizard, W. H., 70 Duggan Ave. Blong, Mrs. 48 Roselawn Ave. Blood, J., 386 Huron St. Boeckh, E. C., 166 Adelaide St. West. Bohme, H. J., 32 Willcocks St. Bolton, Mrs. N. E., 372 Brunswick Ave. Bond, Miss S. L., 40 Glen Road Booth, F., 301 Seaton St. Booth, Geo. W., 126 Warren Rd. Boston, Jos., 108 Hannaford Street, East Toronto. Boultbee, Mrs. Wm., 73 Walmer Road. Bowden, F. A., 81 Highlands Ave. Bowden, Mrs. F. A., 81 Highlands Ave. Bowles, Dr. G. H., 476 Dovercourt Rd. . W., 67 Warren Rd. M. M., Bobcaygeon, Ont. Boyd, R. J. C., 348 Albany Ave. Bradshaw, T., 3 Spadina Rd. Brayley, G. A., 92 Binscarth Rd. Brearley, A. W., 298 Main St. Brearley, Mrs. A. W., 298 Main St. Brebner, Jas., Main Bldg., University of Toronto. Brereton, Miss M., 25 Admiral Rd. Brethour, Mrs. F. G., 60 Woodlawn Ave. est. Brick, T., 716 Broadview Ave. Brigden, W. H., 39 Boswell, Ave. Bromell, Mrs., 161 Grenadier Rd. Brooker, August E., 480 Davenport Rd. Brophey, F. A., 80 Forest Hill Rd. Broughton, Dr. A. J., 114 Beatrice St. Broughton, Mrs. A. J., 114 Beatrice St. Brown, Alex., 146 Avenue Rd. Brown, Mrs. Alex., 21 Crescent Rd. Brown, A. E., 620 Ontario St. Brown, Mrs. Allan, 440 Avenue Rd. Brown, Benj., 194 Howland Ave. Brown, C. A. B., McKinnon Bldg. Brown, Geo., 134 Lawton Ave. Brown, F. D., 29 Roxboro St. EB. Brown, Miss L., 21 Crescent Rd. Bruce, Miss E., 243 Shaw St. Brush, S. B., 32 Lowther Ave. Bryant, Geo. E., 106 Castle Frank Rd. Bryce, Arthur, 215 St. Clair Ave., W. Bryson, J 1 Moore Ave. Bucke, Wm. A., 212 King St. W. Buchanan, Dr. M. A., 88 Wells Hill Ave. Buik, Mrs. J., 662 Huron St. Burden, Miss G. V., 70 Delisle Ave. Burden, W. M., 130 Balmoral Ave. Burfoot, Geo., 25 Hilton Ave. Burns, . W., Board of Education, City Hall. Burns, Miss M. Gladys, 486 Jarvis Street. Burns, R. A., 119 Crescent Rd. Burns, S. W., 94 St. Partick St. (Overseas) 61 Bussell, Mrs. E., 99 Lyndhurst Ave. Butt, R. H., 63 Rose Ave. Calder, Wy 67 Delisle Ave. Calder, M iss J. E., 337 Markham St, Callighen, J., 345 Jarvis St. Cameron, R. R., R. R. No. on-the-Lake, Ontario. Carey, J. E., 90 Symington Ave. Carlaw, J. A., Major, 460 Avenue Rd. Carlisle, L., 73 Bernard Ave. Campbell, Miss, 316 Rusholme Rd. Campbell, Geo. D., 20 Lawton Ave. Carman, Geo., 40 Vermont Ave. Carter, H. J., 16 Binscarth Rd. Carveth, J. A., Stop 21 Kingston Rd. Case, Mrs. C. A., 24 Thorn St. Cassels, Miss A., 72 Clarendon Ave. Cassels, R. S., 93 Bedford Rd. Castle, Miss E., 70 Clarendon Ave. Caswell, Mrs. B., 73 Roxboro St. W. Catto, J. A., 21 Roxboro St. E. Cavell, Miss H., 411 Dovercourt Rd. Chalmers, Miss A., 617 Avenue Rd. 1, Niagara- Chalmers, D. C., 617 Avenue Rd. Chambers, C. E., 13 Starr Ave. Chambers, Mrs. G. E., 722 Ossington ve. Charleswood, C. B., 199 Heath St. W. Charlton, Miss E., ae Bellevue Ave. Chisholme, Mrs. A., 323 Sherbourne Church, T. L., Mayor, City Hall. Clancy, W. Tv.’ 15 Edgewood Crescent. Clark, Chas., 1 Rochester Ave. Clark, Dr. C. W., 455 Huron St. Clark, Mrs. C. W., 455 Huron St. Clark, T. J., 68 Walmer Rd. Clark, Sir W. Mortimer, 28 Avenue Rd. Clarke, E. Roy, 11 Ferndale Ave. Clarke, Miss V. R., 72 Roxboro St. E. Clarkson, E. R. C., 71 Avenue Rd. Clarkson, Mrs. E. R. C., 71 Avenue Rd. Clarkson, Dr. F. A., 421 Bloor St. W. Clatworthy, Mrs. C., 587 Ossington Ave. Clatworthy, Mrs. K., 587 Ossington Ave. Coatsworth, Mrs. Emmerson, 1 May Square. Cober, W. F., 73 Oakwood Ave Cody, Archdeacon, H. J., 603 Jarvis St. Cody, Mrs. H. J., 603 Jarvis St. Coe, W. S., 677 Balliol St. Cohen, J. 8., 215 Spadina Rd. Colclough, J., 24 Macpherson Ave. Cole, -, 207 Woodbine Ave. Cole, W. J., 240 Rushton Rd. Coleman, Mrs. G., 484 Ontario St. Coleshill, C. W., 487 Eastern Ave. Collins, BE. F., 180 Galley Ave. Collins, R., 180 Galley Ave. Cook, Chas., 972 Logan Ave. W., 117 Torrens Coomer, F. morden. Coon, H. J., 36 Castlefield Ave. Cooper, A. H., 321 Ontario St. Copeland, C. M., 15 Toronto St. Corbold, C. E., 82 Wells ofl Rd. Cordingley, «Miss E. J., 274 College St. Ave., Tod- Cornell, G., 21 Elgin Ave. Cosbie, R. i, 30 Douglas Drive. Coulson, D. A., 86 Woodlawn Ave., W. Coulter, T., 178 Garden Ave. Coulter, Mrs. T., 178 Garden Ave. Couzens, H. H., 92 Forest Hill Rd. Cox, Mrs. H. C., Oakville, Ont. Coyne, H. T., 264 Grace St. Crake, J. H., 100 Lawton Ave. Crawford, Hon. T., 404 Palmerston Blvd. Creighton, E., 26 Spadina Rd. Crompton, oc W., 78 Oriole Rd. Crown, Geo. 45 Woodlaw n Ave. W. Currie, Miss Hlizabert, 214 Poplar Plains Road. Curry, E. J., 57 Queen St., West. Cuthbertson, Dr. C. R., 114 Madison Dalrymple, Dr. W. A., 15 Rosemount Ave. BB Ae eae T OR (OF Ne Sia 92 Lawton Ave. 153 Spadina Rd. Dandeno, Dr. J. B., 13 Hazelton Ave. Dandeno, Mrs. J. B., 13 Hazelton Ave. Dane, Fred., License Commissioner, Parliament Buildings. Darling, Frank, 11 Walmer Road. Bee Mrs. C. B., 388 Palmerston Davids, Mrs. I., 12 Oaklands Ave. Davidson, Wm., 146 St. George St. Davies, A. Be 588 Ossington Ave. Davies, Chas. E., 12 Lawrence Crescent. Damp, J. H., Dancy, R. C., RENE Mrs. M. E., 11 Prince Arthur ve. Davies, T., 56 Wellesley St. Davies, Dr. T. A., 578 Sherbourne St. Davis, Mrs. A. L., 66 Benlomond Ave. Davison, R. C., 110 Crescent Rd. Dawson, W. H., 35 Delisle Ave. Day, Rev. F. J., 19 Edgar Ave. Dean, Mrs. W. Geo., 561 Avenue Rd. DeJardine, Dr. Geo. A., 283 Wright Ave. Delamere, Col. J. M., Parliament Bldgs. Delury, Prof. A. University of Toronto. Devonshire, A., 35 Berti St., North Toronto. DeWitt, H. N., 6 Wellington St., E Dickin, Chas., 1104 Bathurst St. Dickson, J. M., 36 Leopold St. Dickson, J. T., 171 Roxboro St. W. Digby, W .W., 329 Palmerston Ave. Dilworth, R. J., Baby Point Cres., Toronto. Dingman, Mrs. H. J., 71 Balsam Ave. Dockray, T. D., 155 Rusholme Rd. Doheny, Mrs. C. M., 10 Douglas Drive. Doherty, W. K., 92 Bedford Rd. Donald, R. A., 177 Balmoral Ave. Donald, Mrs. R. A., 177 Balmoral Ave. Doney, a H., 34 St. Clair Ave., West Donogh, O., 53 eee Park Rd. Deudeh: Aiie: J. O., 53 Chestnut Park oad. Douglas, W. J., 62 St. Albans St. Douglas, Wm., 21 High Park Blvd. Douglas, Wm. E., 170 Walmer Rd. Drayton, P. K., K.C., 296 St. George St. Drummond, A. A., Inspectors’ Dept., Standard Bank. Duff, Mrs. E. W., 579 Dovercourt Rd. Duffil, Mrs. E. J., 537 Palmerston Blvd. Dunbar, Mrs. G. E., 2791 Yonge St. Dunlop, D. W., 39 Adelaide St. W. Dunn, Mrs. Jas., Lake Shore Rd., New Toronto. Dunnett, Mrs. J., 67 Huntley St. Dykes, P., 86 Willcocks St. Dykes, Mrs. P., 86 Willcocks St. Earl, T. R., 74 Kendall Ave. Eby, H. D., 21 Front St. E. Ecclestone, Mrs. W. V., 1 Warren Rd. Edgar, Miss Jeanie, Hospital for Sick Children. Edis, Mrs., 19 Cunningham Ave. Edwards, H. C. Gordon Ave. Edwards, Thos., 139 Geoffrey St. Elliott, W. S., 81 St. Clair Ave., E. Ellis, Dr. A. W., Doncliffe Rd. Ellis, J. F., 81 Wellesley St. Ellis, Mrs. J. F., 81 Wellesley St. Ellis, R. Y., 410 Sherbourne St. Endean, Robt., Richmond Hill, Ont. Erickson, Alex., ‘‘The Downs’’ Oak- ville, Ont. Errett, Miss A., 12 Glen Road. ere C. H., (Overseas), 180 Howland ve Everist, Frank, 132 Glen Road. Everist, Mrs. Frank, 132 Glen Road. Eyer, Miss Jane, 173 St. Clair Ave., E. Faircloth, Miss E. B.,221 Ontario St. Fairty, E. H., 307 Lumsden Bldg. Fairty, Irving S., 184 Keewatin Ave. Restherionkaaee Mrs. J. E., 23 Grove ve. Fee, Miss M., 28 Earl St. - Fell, C. P., 100 Walmsley Blvd. 62 Ferguson, Harcourt, 311 Palmerston Blvd. Ferguson, I. B., 180 Warren Rd. Featherstonhaugh, Mrs. F. B., Royal Bank Building. Fice, C. E., 458 Euclid Ave. Fielder, F., 18 Hampton Ave. Fielding, E., 16 Earl St. Fielding, E. B., 68 Warren Road. Fielding, Mrs. E. B., 68 Warren Road. File, L. K., 168 St. Clair Ave., E Fisher, A. B., 96 Glen Road. Fisher, A. M., 29 Wells St. Fisher, James, 23 Albany Ave. Fletcher, R. A., 144 Howlands Ave. Foget, Mrs. H. H. W., Glenview Ave. Foord, W. H., 1643 Yonge St. Forbes, C., 248 Wright Ave. Fortier, H. C., 57 Murray St. Foster, C. L., 94 Walmer Rd. Fotheringham, Dr. S. L., 73 Walmsley Blvd. Fountain, W., 152 Walmer Rd. Fountain, Mrs. W., 152 Walmer Rd. Fraser, W. ae 22 Whitney Ave. Freer, O. St. , 59 Chelsea Ave. Freysing, Ed. wae 90 Roxboro St., E. Fuller, Miss A. M., 391 College St. Fullerton, H. H., 176 Geoffrey St. Fullerton, J. A., 3 Bain Ave. Furniss, John, 628 Jones Ave. Gaby, F. A., 44 Beaconsfield Ave. Gagen, R. F., 275 Poplar Plains Rd. Gairns, Miss M. C., 56 Major St. Galbraith, A. W., 239 Yonge St. Gale, J. W., 44 Bedford Rd. Gall, Geo., 6 Jameson Ave. Gall, Mrs. Geo., 6 Jameson Ave. Galley, E. E., 22 Walmer Rd. Gallinger, Miss S., 380 Bathurst St. Ganley, J., 481 Paimerston Ave. Garde, J., '46 Bellevue Ave. Gardiner, J. E., 13 Toronto St. Garner, E. T., 784 Shaw St. Garrett, Bruff, 137 Blythewood Rd. George, Miss I. L., 110 Lowther Ave. Gibbs, H. T., 1207 Traders Bank Bldg. Gibson, Thos., 88 Roxboro Drive. Gibson, Mrs. Thos., 88 Roxboro Drive. Gilchrist, A., 424 Runnymede Rd. Glaspel, Clinton J., 343!s Markham St. Glass, Miss E. M., 175 Ossington Ave. Glithero, J., 708 Manning Ave. Godfrey, Ewart, 35 Pears Ave. Godson, Miss E. B., 80 Avenue Rd. Godson, L. F., 80 Avenue Rd. Goldman, C. E. ot a8 Avenue Rd. Goldman, Mrs. C. , 459 Avenue Rd. Goldsmith, Mrs. pe a Goodall, W. R., 62 Yorkville Ave. Gooderham, H. F., 83 Prince Arthur Ave. Gooderham, Miss 42 Elm Ave. Gordon, Mrs. Neil, 290 Simcoe St. Soren J. M., 47 Ellis Ave., Swansea, nt. Gouinlock, Mrs. J. M., 47 Ellis Ave., Swansea, Ont. Goulding, E. W., 57 High Park Blvd. Gosset, E. R., 128 St. Clements Ave. Gowans, Mrs. M. C., 21 Dupont St. Grace, J. C., 430 Avenue Rd. Graham, A. Clarke, 30 Alvin Ave. Graham, D. L., 87 Hazelton Ave Cana Mrs. G. W. C., 715 Dovercourt R Graham, L. H., Pai Balsam Ave. Graham, ares 87 Hazelton Ave. Graham, 313 Sp si Rd. Graham, Mise: W. A., 399 Manning Ave. Graham, Wm., 543 Jarvis St. Grahame, Miss J. B., (Overseas) 23 Forest Hill Road. Dae A UYU TT Tf F YE i SOR On EN ea O Grant, D. I., 66 Woodlawn Ave., W. Grant, Mrs. G. 264 Rusholme Rd. Grasett, Colonel H. J., Ave. Grassick, J. S., 9 Heath St. West. Gray, Alfred, 57 Chester Ave. Gray, Se 13 Queen’s Pk. (Overseas) Gray, E , 162 Glencairn Ave. Gray, H. mA 7 St. Vincent St. Gray, Mrs. H. A., 97 St. Vincent St. Gray, H. J., 635 Parliament St. Gray, J. G. R., 145 Grenadier Rd. Green, F. L., Greenwood, Ont. Green, J. C., 69 Roxboro Drive. Green, Mrs. W. H., 102 Bedford Rd. Greenwood, R., 118 Bedford Rd. Griffith, Mrs. E. J., 209 Christie St. Grimshaw, Dr. W. S., 462 Avenue Rd. Grubb, H. B. Dunnington, 34 North St. Guest, A. E., Canadian General Electric Co., King and Simcoe Sts. Gunn, Mrs. A., 50 Walmer Rd. Gurnett, Mrs., 318 St. George St. 71 Clarendon aeemey Mrs. C., 161 Spadina Rd. Gzowski, C. S., 60 Glen Road. Hackney, C. W., 865 Bathurst St. Hahn, Paul, 717 Yonge St. Haley, J. S., 304 Glen Rd. Hall, A. V., 71 Bay Street. Hall, C. C., 26 Heath St., E. Hall, Dr. J. B., 328 Jarvis St. Hamilton, C. B., 43 Madison Ave. Hamilton, Mrs. C. B., 43 Madison Ave. Hamilton, Miss Myra, 43 Madison Ave. Hamilton, Mrs. L. A., 30 St. Joseph St. Hamilton, Mrs. W. A., 42 Cluny Ave. Haney, Mrs. E., 161 Concord Ave. Hanna, Miss, 16 Wychwood Park. Hanna, H , 67 Heath St., W. Hanna, S. R., 70 Lynwood Ave. ee Mrs. A. H., 330 St. Clarens ve. Harries, W. E., 71 Bay St. Harris, Herbert, 44 Major St. Harris, Miss L. L., 71 St. George St. Harris, R. C., 50 Balsam Ave. Harris, Mrs. R. C., 50 Balsam Ave. Harris, Dr. W. H.. 1276 King St. W. Harris, Mrs. W. T., 515 Broadview Ave. ae a Master Willie, 515 Broadview Harrison, T., 201 Markham St. Harron, H. S., 222 Blythewood Rd. Hart, H. B., 26 St. Andrew’s Gardens. Hart, Mrs. H. B., 26 St. Andrew's Gds. Hart, Mrs. R. R., Oakville, Ont. Harton, Jos., 7 Ketchum Ave. Harvey, J. F., 18 Wright Ave. Hatch, A. , 401 Logan Ave. Hatch, Miss B., 54 St. Mary St. Haultain, H. E. T., 63 Heath St. W. W.S., 61 Parkway Ave. aUay oo : . Humber Bay, Ont. Henderson, D., 69 Forest Hill Rd. Henderson, Jos., 155 Crescent Rd. Hetherington, Wm. J., 61 Prince Arthur . A., 2 Roxboro St., E. . L., Humber Bay, Ont. “16 Fermanagh Ave. S Springhurst Ave. Hiltz, W. 682 Broadview Ave. Hocken, H. ves 340 Pamlerston Blvd. (Summer: Centre Island). Hocken, Mrs. H. C., 340 Palmerston Blvd., (Summer: Centre Island) Hodgens, W. S., 26 King St. EB. Hodgetts, G. H., 64 Rusholme Rd. Hodgins, aes B., 140 Roxboro St., Hodgins, tts Warren Rd. Hoidge, o Markham St. Holden, J. B., 31 esboxe Drive. Holden, Mrs. J. B., 31 Roxboro Drive. Hellewell, Ww. Home, K. P., 137 Roxboro St., E. Honeyman, C. L., 42 Harcourt Ave. Home, R., 674 Spadina Ave. Home, Mrs. R., 674 Spadina Ave. Hood, F., 10 Johnston St. Hooey, Miss E., 37 Dundonald St. Hooper, Harry, 548 Huron St. Hooper, MG Harry, 548 Huron St. Howard, A., 131 Madison Ave. eessiee C. E., 6 Hurndale Ave. Howarth, J. H., 19 Heath St., W. Howell, G. A., Wychwood Park. Howell, Mrs. G. A., Wychwood Park. Howitt, J. F., 335 Dovercourt Rd. Howitt, Mrs. J. F., 335 Dovercourt Rd. Hudson, F. W., 71 Beatty Ave. Hudson, H. H., 313 Russell Hill Rd. Huestis, A. E., 54 Huntley SDS Hughes, C. C., 812 Queen St., Hughes, Miss K., 41 Howard BE Hughes, J. L., 47 Dundonald St. Humberstone, Mrs., 474 Montrose Ave. Humphrey, F. W., 26 Edgar Ave. Hunt, F. W., 179 High Park Ave. Hunter, T., 192 Jameson Ave Hutcheson, Mrs. C. A., 27 Dearbourne Ave. Hutchinson, J., Island Park. Hynes, Mr. J.C., 107 Castle Frank Road. Hynes, Miss, 109 Castle Frank Road. Ingles, C. L., The Venerable, 408 Bruns- wick Ave. Ingram, G. E., 136 Beverley St. Inrig, F., 34 Alvin Ave. Inrig, Mrs. F., 34 Alvin Ave. Irving, G. T., 66 Spadina Road. Irvin, C., 111 St. John’s Road. Ivey, A. M., 246 St. George St. Jackson, J. H., 88 Woodlawn Ave., W. Jackson, M. B., 50 Castle Frank Rd. Jacobi, Emil T., 102 Walmer Rd. Jacobs, F. A., 361 Broadview Ave. James, C. C., 144 St. George St. James, Geo. F., 15 High Park Gardens. Jamieson, Miss E. J., 23 Woodlawn Ave., ast. Jamieson, Miss M. E., 23 Woodlawn Ave., East. Jardine, Miss H., 119 Rusholme Road. Jardine, Miss, 119 Rusholme Road Jarvis, Mrs. F. S., 135 Balmoral Ave. Jay, Wm., 42 Wells St. Jenkins, T., 62 Roxboro St., W. Jephcott, Mrs. Wm. C., 2 Clarendon Crescent. Jewell, H., 23 Beatty Ave. Jewell, Mrs. H., 23 Beatty Ave. Johnson, D., 429 Palmerston Ave. Johnson, Mrs. D., 429 Palmerston Ave. Johnston, Mrs. A., 40 South Drive. Johnston, A. C., 92 Farnham Ave. Johnston, Alex. L., 376 Indian Rd. Johnston, Miss M., 33 Indian Road Crescent. Johnston, Robt., 314 Euclid Ave. Johnston, W.S., 154 Walmer Road. Johnston, Mrs. W. S., 154 Walmer Rd, Jolliffe, Mrs. Geo., 30 Deleware Ave. Jones, Senator L. M., 145 St. George St. Jull, T. W., 184 Crescent Road. Jupp, Jas., 459 Broadview Ave. Jury, W.S., 254 Heath St. Kavanagh, Mrs. W. A., 181 Lowther Ave Kay, John, 27 Wellington St., E Keeler, F., 137 Gillard Ave. Keeling, M. a P., 217 Albany Ave. Kelly, Mrs. T., 33 Maple Ave. Kelly, J. D., Hel King St., Kemp, Hon. A. E., Castle Frank Rd. Kennedy, = E., 480 Brunswick Ave. Kennedy, F. J., 405 Palmerston Blv a Kennedy, Ged: 147 Bloor St. : Kent, F. 'A., 207 Kent Building. Kent, H. F.. 375 Indian Rd. Kent, J. G., 185 Glen Road. Beet Aa Unk F Y T-.0) -R ‘OO N sie Keough, T. H., 79 Indian Grove. Kerr, Geo., 80 Spadina Road. Kerr, H. L., 52 Roxboro Drive. Kerr, J., 103 Roxboro St., W. Kidd, T. W., 661 Broadview aoe Kilgour, D. E., 112 King St., Kilpatrick, Mrs, J. M., 128 Be vaina Rd. King, A. 97 Joseph “Ave. King, A. §” 104 South Drive. King, J., 396 See Ave. King, R. 10 Walmer Rd. King, hare R. W., 10 Walmer Rad. Kingdon, Mrs. W. A., 26 Westmoreland ve. Kingston, Geo. A., School Buildings. Kingstone, Mrs. Geo. A., 23 Oriole Gar- dens. Kinnear, T. H., 167 Spadina Rd. Se A. M. M., 15 Wellington Kirkpatrick, G. B., 210 Rusholme Rd. Kitchener, J., 320 St. George St. Knowles, P. D., 20 Summerhill Gardens Knowlton, C._E., Canadian Bank of Commerce, King St., West. Knowlton, T. E., 146 Wellesley Crescent. eto, Ww. Ee 152 Wellesley Cres- ent Knight, T., 92 Joseph Ave., Davisville, ity. Kyle, Miss E., 180 Avenue Road. Kyle, Walter, 188 Concord Ave. Laidlaw, Miss A., 32 N. Sherbourne St. Laidlaw, Mrs. John, 23 Park Hees Laidlaw, J. B., 12 Wellington St. Laidlaw, Miss M. C., 32 N. anes Lailey, W. H., 431 King St., Lambe, W. G. A., 24 Front st. ‘BE. Langmuir, B. A., 46 Forest Hill Rd. Langmuir, Miss W. D., 288 Bloor St., W. Langton, Mrs. T., 105 Dunvegan Rd. Larkin, P. C., 11 Elm Ave. Lash, J. F., Canadian Bank of Com- merce Building. Law, Commander F. C., 4 Wellesley Place. Lawrence, W., 202 Westminster Ave. Lea, Geo. T., 577 Indian Road. Leach, Hugh, 9 Spadina Road. Leacock, W. H., 56 Deleware Ave. Lebsack, Wm., '84 West Lodge Ave. Lee, F. W. 425° Paimerston Blvd. Lee, Mrs. a W,, 425 ce Blvd. Lee, Geo., H. D., 22 King St., Lee, W. Geli, 64 Madison Ave. Lefroy, ae B., 120 Warren Rd. Lefroy, EB. , 120 Warren Rd. Legge, Geo & 59 Chelsea Ave. pene Mrs. g: 'E., 818 College St. Lendrum, J., Elgin Mills, P.O. Lewis, Mrs. John, oe, Silver Birch Ave. Lezars, ae K. M., 1 Baby Point Rd. Normal Lind, Mrs. G., 212 Balmoral Ave. Lindsay, J. i 68 Grenadier Rd. Littlejohn, W. A., City Hall, Toronto. Locke, Mrs. H. W., 159 Walmer Rd. Long, Wm., 17 High Park Gardens. Long, W. E., 261 Poplar Plains Rd. Look, Mrs. R. V., 1 Spadina Gardens. Lovatt, W., 54 Gothic Ave. Love, Miss 'L., 96 Gloucester St. Loveless, Mrs. W., Ellesmere, Ont. Lovell, R. oe 150 Simcoe St. Lovell, 58 Lympstone Ave. a arena eat, 130 Balsam Ave. Lugsdin, Mrs. W. J 48 Lawton Ave. Lumgair, M. G., 8 erin Rd. Lye, Mrs. F. oa "49 Dupont St. Lyle, Mrs. I. G. M., 19 Avondale Rd. Lyndon, H., 211 Bain Ave. Lyon, Mrs. W. H., Summer: 127 St. Clements Ave. Winter: 122a Spencer Ave. MacCallum, Dr. J. M., 13 Bloor St., W. MacCallum, Mrs. J. M., 13 Bloor St., W. Macdonald, D., 374 Walmer Rd. Macdonald, J. A., 574 Indian Rd. Macdonald, Miss M., 92 Wells Hill Ave. MacDonald, N. S., 8 St. Andrew’s Gds. MacDonald, R. T., 69 Front St., E. Macdonald, Mrs. W. R., 34 South Drive. MacGregor, Mrs. J. P., 6 Glengrove Ave. Machell, Mrs. E., 168 Ossington Ave. MacKellar, Miss A., 169 Madison Ave. Mackenzie, Miss E. K., 61 Deleware Ave. Back enaley Mrs. H. Gordon, 31 Walmer oad. Macnab, Canon A. W., 120 Wells St. Maguire, Mrs. J., 102 Dunvegan Rd. Mallory, Mrs. F. R., 34 Grosvenor St. Mann, Dr. 39 Roxboro St. E. Manton, T., Blythewood Road. Maries, iN F., Overseas. Marlow, Chas., 64015 Euclid Ave. Marriott, F. G., 9 Courtleigh Blvd. Mara, F. G. (Overseas) Marsh, G. T., 118 Spadina Rd. Marshall, Alex., 407 Manning Ave. Marshall, C. L., 206 Jameson Ave. Marshall, Mrs. C. 206 a Ave. Marshall, E., a Roxboro St., Marshall, R., f GaenbeniEnare St. Martin, H. J., ‘te Elm Ave. Martin, T. M., 225 Cottingham St. Mason, Lt.-Col. Cooper, 268 St. George St. f Mason, Mrs. J. H., 295 Russell Hill Rd. Massey, Mrs. W. E. H., ‘‘Dentonia Park’’ Coleman P. O. Mather, G. A., 212 Montrose Ave. Mathison, Miss B., 31 Albany Ave. McBride, R. H., 126 Concord Ave. McCausland, F. H., 55 Admiral Rd. McClelland, W. G., 80 Rusholme Rd. McCombie, Wm., 83 Ferrier Ave. epee aU: Mrs. J. W., 394 Bloor St., t McFall, Dr. W. A., 919 College St. McGill, J. D., 346 ‘Bloor St., ee McGill, C. G., 43 Heath St., McHardy, A., 47 Howard St. McIntosh, Mrs. A. K., 32 Barl St. McIntosh, J. M., 84 Pinecrest Rd. McIntosh, W. D., 56 Grenville St. steel EL Mrs. R. L., 408 Palmerston MoKay, Prof. A. C., 13 Prince Arthur Mekee, Mrs. aS Gladstone Ave. McKnieht, a: 244 Russell Hill Rd. McLean, R. T., B56 Lombard St. McLaughlin, Mrs. M., 77 Forest Hill Rd. McLenaghen, pe 10 "Lamport Ave. McLeod, Mrs. R. 75 Spadina Rd. McMaster, Mrs. ae R., 130 Farnham Ave. McMasters, C. W., 63 Madison Ave. McMurray, Mrs. Leonard, 7 Wellesley Place. McMurray, L. oe 10 Chestnut Park Rd. oe St. Clair Ave., McNab, Miss J McNabb, Wm. , 188 Keewatin Ave. McPherson, A., Arba Denison Ave. McPherson, C. J., 56 Major St. McVittie, C., 22 St. Joseph St. McVittie, a Walmer Road Hill. McVity, F. 78 Roxboro St., W. Mowhinney, ‘W. J., 10 Spadina Gardens Mearns, 201 Close Ave. R., Meek, E. J., 137 ae Ave. Meek, Mrs. E. J., re Albany Ave. Meredith, Miss Ge 472 Dovercourt Rd. Meredith, Miss Helen R., 472 Dover- court Road. Merriam, G. R. C., 34 Ferndale Ave Merryweather, Hy., Southwell, England. Meyer, Geo., W. 30’ Walker Ave. Michell, Dr. W., 695 Broadview Ave. Middleton, F. H., aoa Bedford Rd. se Mrs. F. 137 Bedford Rd. Miles, a8 “Abbott 2 Ave. Miller, bes A., 33 Sie aa we Miller, H. E., wer Walmer Rd. aor se 6€6UUlUCUCTlCUWdETUCUMFF nY/ im Oo Kk ON F.C ————————————————— Miller, Mrs. J. C., 537 Jarvis St. Miller, Robt., 27 Burnsfield Ave. Mill “ee W. Lash, 50 St. Alban’s St. Mills, S., 84 Roxboro St., Mills, Miss’ M. 372 Bathurst St. Mills, S. Bulon” 23 | Isabella St. Mitchell, a8 G. 8 Binscarth Road. Mitchell, inl 187 ‘Denison Ave Mitchell, Dr. J. P., 320 Bloor St., W. Mitchell, ets, 1003 Traders Bank Bldg. Mitchell, Mrs. P. , 1003 Traders Bank Moebus, W. B., 400 Summerhill Ave. Moffat, Miss M. D., 102 Dearbourne Ave. Moffat, Wm., 68 South Drive Moffat, eee "wWm., 68 South Drive. Moffat, a , Weston, Ont. Monk, G. 458 Markham Se Monk, oe 7 Walter St., E. Toronto. eae? Mrs. 8. A., 7 Walter Bt _E. Toron- 47 Munro Park Ave. 58 Delisle Ave. 58 Delisle Ave. Riecrgoriary, C.A Moore, Mrs. A., Moore, H. C., Morehen, W. J., 39 Westwood Ave., Pep cor cen. Morine, A. B me Belsize Drive. Morine, Mrs. AG 188 Belsize Drive. Morris, Miss Mabel, 128 Park Road. Morris, Walter ee, “The Chestnuts’’ Oakville, Ont. Morrison, Geo., 323 St. Clair Ave., E. Morrison, John, 604 Jarvis St. Morrow, Geo., 104 Dunvegan Road. Morrow, Mrs. "Geo., 104 Dunvegan Rd. Morton, E. L., 11 Norwood Road. Morton, D., 89 Isabella St. Mrs. C. A., 24 Admiral Road. Ss. s., 337 College St. Sasso College St. Moyer, "A. B.) 586 Markham Sta Moyle, David. BB Asquith Ave. Moyle, paiee “Wyncroft’’ Richmond Mowe: J pee “Wyncroft,’’ Richmond Muat, Rabi. 64 eo edeld Ave. Mulholland, G. 157 Dawlish Ave. Mulock, Sir wilttain, 518 Jarvis St. Muntz, G. H., 1 Lonsdale Rd. Murphy, Mrs. AG 84 Dominion St. Murray, Miss E., 75 Sheldrake Blvd. Murray, G. ke 382 Indian Road. Myhill, W. F 179 Davisville Ave. Nairn, Miss Agnes, 415 Jarvis St. Nairn, Miss I., ao Jarvis St. Nairn, Miss M. 415 Jarvis St. mr Scarth Road. ’ 14 Maitland St. 14 Maitland St. ats Maltland St. Nasmith, Mrs. a 19 Binscarth Rd. Neilson, Morden, 56 ‘Indian Grove. Nelson, A. G. 44 Mount View Ave. Nicholas, Lewis, 16 Redpath Ave., North Toronto. Nicholls, The Hon. Lt.-Co. Frederic, 212 King St. W. Nicol, T. Supt. Parks, Guelph, Ont. Nieghorn, ‘Albert, 130 Mill St. Noad, J. B., i Castle Frank Road. Noble, Mrs. R. T., 322 Bloor St., W. Norris, Mrs. a 106 Crescent Road. Northey, 2 124 Glencairn Ave. Noxon, Wm. .'88 Madison Ave. Oakley, Wm., 444 Summerhill Ave. Ogden, Mrs. U., 21 Maple Ave. Oksvik, Geo., 177 Concord Ave. Oldacre, C. B., 218 Pearson Ave. Oliver, E. W., 177 Deleware Ave. Oliver, Jos., 598 Sherbourne St. Oliver, Mrs. Jos., 598 Sherbourne St. O'Neil, Mrs. J. N., 22 Elm Grove Ave. 65 Ormsby, A. B., ‘‘Ormscliff’’ Mimico Beach P Owen, Mrs. E. T., 49 Alcina Ave. Paget, Mrs. Senn Agincourt, Ont. J.'J., “Huntley Lodge,’ Papworth, "Hadtord, 344 Albany Ave. Parker, A. G., 2 Howland Ave. Parker, Robt., Be Lowther Ave Parker, Mrs. W. R. P., 45 Highlands Ave. Partridge, W. M., 146 St. Clements Ave. Paterson, J. H., 45 Borden St. Paterson, Mrs. M., 169 Spadina Rd. Patterson, T. A., Agincourt, Ont. Patterson, Mrs. ‘T. A., Agincourt, Ont. Peace, W. A., 299 Glen Road. Peacock, F. W., 381 Margueretta St. Peacock, Mrs. Jane, 71 Crescent Rd. Pearcy, G. S., 20 Glen Grove Ave., W. Pearson, Dr. 'C. E., 311 Russell Hill Rd. Fears ort Miss Anne, 34 N. Sherbourne Pearson, W. 34 N. Sherbourne St. Pell, H. ps 4 Panedate Road. Perry, Miss A. M., 295 Russell = Drive. Perry, O. G., 23 Munro Park Ave Peterkin, J. F., 156 Dowling Ave | A., 338 Shaw St. . F., 26 North St. . W. F., 26 North St. Phillipson, W., 301 Spadina Rd. Pindergast, Mr., 11 Mackenzie Ave. Pingle, C. G., 23 Riverdale Ave. Pipe, S. H., 80 Lynwood Ave. Piper, Miss L. M., 17 Avondale Rd. Plant, Mrs. M. Ge 73 Macpherson Ave. iWaybesDoS ‘Huntley St. "W. J., 344 Dovercourt Rd. Pontifex, Mrs. G. E., 79 Woodlawn Ave., ast Ponton, Douglas, 32 Nanton Ave. Poole, J. E., 145 Lytton Blvd. Potter, W. J., 431 Sumach St. Potts, Miss, Hospital for Sick Children. Powell, G. K., 29 St. James Ave. Pretty, T., 334 Ossington Ave Price, L. G., 70 Broadway Ave. Price, R. J., 21 Gorevale Ave. Price, Mrs., 19 Parkwood Ave. Pringle, Miss BE. S., ‘‘Dentonia Park,’’ Coleman, P.O. Pringle, J. D., 218 Garden Ave. Proctor, Mrs. T. R., Lansing, P.O. Quin, Miss ah deL., 186 Warren Rd. Quinn, M. J., 461 Dovercourt Rd. Randall, Mrs. J., 208 Poplar Plains Rd. Raney 43 Dunvegan Rd. Ratcliff, Mrs. F. 145 Crescent Rd. Rawlinson, L., 57 Delisle Ave. Raymond, Mrs. A. P., 57 er onion St. Reburn, W. G., 94 Forest Hill Reed, A. H., 317 Avenue Rd. Reedy, Mrs. Geo., 152 Madison Ave. Revill, W. F., 476 Montrose Ave. Rice, Mrs. M. E., 51 Walker Ave. Rice, Miss M. W., 26 Indian Rd. Rice, Mrs. R. B., 27 Roxboro Drive. Riddell, Miss Mary, 20 Vermont Ave. Riddell, Judge W. R., 109 St. George St. Ridout, Miss D. I., 84 Forest Hill Rd Riggs, F. L., 115 St. Clements Ave. Riggs, Dr. Lewis F., 205 Yonge St. Rixhan, C., 221 Markham St. Roadhouse, W. B., 171 Walmer Rd. Robb, C. M., 182 Concord Ave. iol Mrs. J. L. P., 483 Roncesvalles ve. Robertson, Jas., 531 Palmerston Blvd. Robertson, J. Ross, 291 Sherbourne St. eles Jo Mrs. J. Ross, 291 Sherbourne Robertson, J. S., 151 Alcorn Ave, Robertson, R. a 210 Balmoral Ave. Robertson, Mrs. W. D., 42 Dale Ave. Repies B., ‘‘Strathrobyn,"’ Ridley ark. B: ashy Ave 70) Sle lay T (0.(R ‘OO NSS tee Robinson, E. W., 190 Yonge St. Robinson, J. L., 47 Victoria Park Ave. Robinson, Wm., 684 Shaw St._ OREer, Mrs. W. P.,2 Neville Park v Robinson, W. = 39 Alvin Ave. Robson, Mrs. F. E., 228 Glen Road. Roden, B., 1 Clarendon Crescent. Roden G., 43 Beatrice St. Roessell, M. L., 89 Binscarth Rd. Rogers, A. H., 330 Russell Hill Rd. Rogers, Dr. H. P., 335 Gladstone Ave. Rogers, Mrs. W. R., 112 Blythewood Rd. Rolph, Dr. A. H., 192 Bloor St., W Rolph, F., 78 Crescent Rd. Rolph, Mrs. F., 78 Crescent Rd. Rose, Geo., 39 Bdelaide St.. W 1167 Queen St.. E. Ross, Wm., Mrs. 112 Pricefield Rd. Rous, Carl., 204 Heath St. Rowell, N. W., M.P.P., 134 Crescent Rd. Roy, J. F., 334 Palmerston Blvd. Roy, Mrs. J. F., 334 Palmerston Blvd. Rubidge, C. R., 130 O’Hara Ave Rusell, T. A., 162 Walmer Rd. Ryan, Peter, 51 Grosvenor St. Ryerson, Mrs. Stanley. 14 Delisle Ave. Ryott, E. C., 178 Carlaw Ave. 10 Johnston's Lane. Saunders, E. M., 125 Huntley St. Saunders, Mrs. E. M., 125 Huntley St. Saxby, J. W., 34 Power St. Scheuer, E., 32 Chestnut Park Rd. Schollar, Miss, 215's Davenport Rd. Scobie, N. F. M., 50 Forest Hill Rd. Scott, Dr. C. G., 89 Pleasant Blvd. Scott, Mrs. C. G., 89 Pleasant Blvd. Scott, J. G., 29 Dunvegan Rd. Scott, Miss Helen E., 29 Dunvegan Rd. Scott, Walter Edmund, 30 Deleware Ave. Scott, Wm., Normal School Bldg. Scythes, J. A., 369 Indian Rd. Seaman, W. B., 367 Indian Rd. Seon, Dudley, 127 Yarmouth Rd. Semple, J. P., 52 Dundonald St. Sharpe, Mrs. C., 6 Glen Rd Sharpe, W. E., 75 Jameson Ave. Shaw, Geo. E., 195 St. George St. Shaw, Mrs. H. A., 117 Glengrove Ave. Shea, J., Sheas’ Theatre. Shephard, G., Overseas. Shepherd, Miss N. L., 270 Rusholme Rd. Shoenberger, Miss E. B., Overseas, 176 Bloor St., East. Shurley, R. F., 486 Brunswick Ave. Shuttleworth, Prof. E. B., 220 Sher- bourne St. Sime, F. W., F. C. A., 212 Heath St., W Uni- Sandham, C., Simmers, Herman, 147 King St., E. Simpson, Alex., Dept. Botany, versity of Toronto. Simpson, aE 133 King St., E. Sinclair, Dr. S. 480 Huron St. Singer, E., Renies and Leader Lane. Skill, L. J., 355 1 Yonge St. Skitch, Miss O., 644 Manning Ave. Slaney, A. E., 122 Riverdale Ave. Small, Fred, 42 Boswell Ave. Smart, D. W., 48 Chestnut Park Rd. Smith, Mrs. Assheton, 18 Elm Ave Smith, Mrs. 133 Crescent Road. Smith, Dr. a B., 92 College St. Smith, G. F., 64 Hewitt Ave. Smith, Mrs. Geo. H., 219 Balmoral Ave. Smith, Henry, 228 Lippincott Ave. Smith, Mrs. J. F., 10 May St. Smith, J. H., 66 Grenville St. Smith, Mrs. John, 413 Keele St. Smith, Miss M., 53 Delisle Ave. Smith, Dr. P. St. C., 88 Balsam Ave. Smith, 7 et C., 10 Morningside Ave., wan Smith, ‘Mrs. R. C., 10 Morningside Ave., Swansea. 66 Smith, Mrs. Wm., 32 Dewson St. Smith, W. Christie, 397 Brunswick Ave. Smith, W. J., 397 Brunswick Ave. Smith, Mrs. W. J., 397 Brunswick Ave. Smyth, R. G., 57 Chestnut Park Rd. Snelgrove, E., 105 Carlton St. Spears, J. Be 220 High Park Ave. Speight, wee , 8 Glen Road. Spiers, R. 17 Wolfrey Ave. Squair, J. M68 Palmerston BEE Stainton, 'Mrs., 559 Clinton S Stainton, Miss M. H. J., 559 Giinton St. Stainton, W. H., 521 Gladstone Ave. Stainton, Mrs. W. H., 521 Gladstone Ave. Starr, Mrs. C. L., 224 Bloor St., W. Stayner, Mrs. D. S., 201 Heath St. Steele, Mrs. R. C., 99 Crescent Rd. Sterling, Walter, 48 Rowanwood Ave. Steven, H. S., 83 St. Clair Ave. Stevenson, Mrs. S. B., 546 Dovercourt Road. Stewart, T. J., 155 Spadina Road. Stewart, Mrs. W. B., 136 Bedford Rd. Stirling, E. H., 125 Deleware Ave. Stone, F. W., 116 Kendal Ave. Stoodley, Miss, 2171 Gerrard St., E. Stouffer, D., 55 Charles St. Strathy, Stewart, 54 Clarendon Ave. Sullivan, H. O Spadina Rd. Sutherland, Hy., 232 Dunn Ave. Sutherland, Mrs. Hy., 232 Dunn Ave. Sutherland, Mrs. J. G., 15 Douglas Drive. Swift, Mrs. J. T., Mimico Beach. Talley, E. L., 28 St. Andrew’s Gardens. Tate, J. A., 4 Edgar Ave. Taylor, Hy. 37 Thelma Ave. Taylor, Jos., 83 Spencer Ave. Taylor, J. Lumsden Bldg Temple, Mrs. C. A., 398 Palniersteel Ave. Temple, H. P., 494 Huron St. Temple, P., ni88 Gladstone Ave. Tew, Wm. , 35 Gibson Ave. Thom, J. a ‘54 South Drive. Thompson, J. Enoch, 19 Admiral Rd. Thompson, Wm., 87 Deleware Ave. Thompson, Mrs. W. W., Danforth P.O. Thomson, D. E., 57 Queen’s Park. Thomson, John, 116 Wellesley St. Thomson, 6 Spadina Ave. Thomson, Mrs. R. B., 586 Spadina Ave. Thomson, W. H., 62 Woodlawn Ave. Thomson, Mrs. W. H., 62 Woodlawn Ave. Thomson, W. H., 41 St. Clair Ave., E Thomson, Mrs. W. R., 166 Geoffrey St. Thorne, Major J. O., 3 Indian Trail. Thorne, J. L., 47 Delisle Ave. Thornton, J. H., 301 Spadina Rd. Tilley, Mrs. C., 488 Avenue Rd. Tilley, H. T., 229 Russell Hill Rd. Tinker, A. L:, 1121 Bathurst St. Tippet, W. H., 435 Ossington Ave. Todd, Dr. R., 5 Queen’s Park. Tovell, I., 119 Spadina Rd. Tovell, N. W., 210 Dominion Bank Bldg. Toy, M. E., 17 Brooklyn Ave. Trainer, S. B., a Woodlawn Ave., W. Trainer, Mrs. S. B., 40 Woodlawn ‘Ave., w Treble, Dr. C. E., 307 Palmerston Blvd. Treble, Mrs. C. E., 307 Palmerston Blvd. ee Miss Charlotte, 339 Sherbourne t Trees, Miss Edith, 339 Sherbourne St. Trees, J , 117 Wellesley St. Trees, Mrs. J. D., 117 Wellesley St. Trotter, Dr. W. C., Dunvegan and North eee Hill Road. Tubby, A., 182 Glen Road. Turvey, ree "F., 52 Macpherson Ave. Tushingham, T., 146 Pearson Ave. Tyrell, Mrs. J. B., 14 Walmer Rd. Underhill, R., 479 Palmerston Ave. Utley, Edwin, 111 Edgewood Ave. Vale, P. A., 53 Dunvegan Rd. Van Vleet, P. G., 40 Springhurst Ave. AY oe A UUUTChUdETlCUWFF UY Te rOy iResOw NO Van Nostrand, John, 91 Deleware Ave. Williams, M., 39 Heath St., E Van Nostrand, Mrs., 61 Deleware Ave. Williams, W., 65 Walker Ave. Williamson, Geo., 14 Starr Ave. eeeoeer, aed faye ay Ave. Williamson, R., 22 Munro Park Ave. en, C. berdeen Ave. Willson, C.'H.,’8 ooo Rd. Walden’ eo ‘co a ., 14 Aberdeen Ave. Willson, Mrs. a 8 Beaumont Rd. Walder, Robt., 166 Jameson Ave. Wilson, Chas. Meas Hillsdale Ave. Walker, Mrs.’ T. L., Dale and Maple Wilson, David, Wore St. Clarens Ave. Avenues. Wilson, Geo. T., 33 Woodlawn Ave., W. Waller, G. H., 63 Beatty Ave. Wilson, J. G., 127 Bleecker St. Wallis, Arthur T., 383 Markham St. Wilson, Dr. R. J., Overseas. Wallis, Miss G., 14 Bernard Ave. Wilson, Mrs. S. F., 5 Dale Ave. Wallis, Chas. W., 346 Brunswick Ave. Winnett, H., Queen's Hotel. Wallis, Mrs. M., 14 Bernard Ave. Winter, Mrs. E., 29 Balsam Ave. Walsh; E., 27 Irwin Ave. Winton, Geo. E., Scarboro P.O. Walsh, J.'W. B., 88 Lowther Ave. Wood, A. C., 1056 Shaw St. Walton, Mrs. F. E., Scarboro Junction. Wood, E. R., 26 King St., E. Warde, J. D., 66 Rowanwood Ave. Wood, G. H., 73 Se Drive. Warnham, S. W., 663 Balliol St. Wood, Mrs. G. 73 South Drive. Warnham, Mrs. S. W., 663 Balliol Ae Wood, Henry, ‘eos "Spadina Ave. Warwick, C. E., 428 Walmer Rd. Hil Wood, L. M., 116 Crescent Rd. Watson, Mrs., 81 Admiral Rd. Woodhouse, 14.39 Sherbourne St. Watson, T. H., 251 St. George St. Woodley, De Tis Ranleigh Ave. Watt, Alex., 1 Riverdale Ave. Woods, S. E., 1056 Shaw St. Watt, Geo. S., 109 Spadina Rd. Woods, Mrs. W. B., 40 Hawthorne Ave. Watts, G. H., "469 Brock Ave. Woolway, Norman, 432 Concord Ave. Webb, Mrs. i. 16 Lynwood Ave. Worth, Arthur, ~ Broadway. Webster, eee . E., 45 Glen Rd. Worthington, = ., 296 Grace St. Webster, a 19'Goldwin Smith Drive Worthington, G. R., 172 Spadina Rd. Weir, me E., Agincourt, Ont. Wright, oh, 584 Avenue Rd. Weldon, J. H., 96 Boustead Ave. Wright, J 2 Queen St., West, W. N., 35 Wellesley St. Wright, S. C., 99 Bloor St., Ww. Westren, J. Ww. , 12 Lynwood Ave. Wright, ae 70 Hogarth ‘Ave. Whaley, E., 74 Roxboro St., E. Wrinch, Miss M. E., Wychwood Park. Whaley, Mrs. E., 74 Roxboro St., E. Wrinch, Warwick, 288 Indian Rd. Whetter, W. H., 276 Evelyn Ave. Wrong, Prof. Geo. M., 467 Jarvis St. White, F., 198 Hillsdale Ave. Wicksteed, Mrs. H. 178 Glen Rd. Yates, Miss Mary, Summer: Port Credit, Wilcox, J., 268 Ee Ave. Ont., Winter: 52 St. Alban’s St. Wilkin, &. F., 22 Prince Arthur Ave. Yeo., C. T., 12 Rainsford Rd. Wilkinson, F., 16 Garnet Ave. Yorston, J. A., 67 Constance St. Williams, ‘A. R., 56 Madison Ave. Young, J. H., 279 Blythewood Rd. Williams, Mrs. A. R., 56 Madison Ave. Young, Mrs. J. H., 279 Blythewood Rd. Williams, G., 56 Hazleton Ave. Young, L. R., 758 Keele St. Williams, H.'H. Bas Avenue Road. Williams, Mrs. ‘J. E., 63 Balsam Ave. Zeigler, Dr. O. H., 120 Glen Rd. - ey 4 < “ BE SAG 2 Ue ei eae oe onye T OF-R>)O:; No Bie EN DpEAx Page Blooms, How to Cut Them - - - = 56 Constitution and By-laws - : = P Z 8-11 Committees - - - : : : 2 Care of House Plants = z - 2 34 Dahlia Cultivation : = s 7 2 44252 Fertilizers E - - - - - 22 Historical Data -- : z : “ 15 Herbaceous Borders - - - - - 30-40 Meetings 2 2 2 = z : mt Members’ List —- - - - - - 59 Officers - : : = - - - 2 Reports— Directors = - - - - - 12 Floral Committee = - - E - 16 Home Gardens - = = - - 13-14 Treasurers = - 2 = : E L 6 Roses = = : z ? 3 54 Rock Gardens —- - - - - - 24-30 Vegetable Garden - - - - - [8-22 68 Bi log ical & Medical Serials PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY “ae