YOUNG GARDENER’S
ASSISTANTS:

CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OF

Peierig ~~ *

Garden and Flower Seeds,

WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD,

“h

FOR THE CULTIVATION OF

CULINARY VEGETABLES

AND
FLOWERS.

FOURTH EDITION WITH AN APPENDIX

§ CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR CULTIVATING FRUIT TREES AND

’
THE GRAPE VINE, &C. &C.
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BY TY BRIDGEMAN

% GARDENER, SEEDSMAN 4ND' BLORIST, NEW-YORK.
: & $ G

b)

“The end of all instruction, should be the attqinswenrriu eful

-

knowledge.”

— Shew-Pork :
PRINTED BY BOOTH & SMITH,
%, No. 7 Wail-street.

Sold by the Author; G. Thorburn & Sons; Smith & Hogg; and
other Seedsmen and Florists; J. Wiley; G.& C. & H. Carvill;
and 8S. Woods & Sons, Booksellers.

1833.

x} One half of this edition is bound up with the Appendix or

Fruits, dc., and the remainder without, to suit purchasers.

Pom.

EWTERED ACCORDING To Act oF Concress, in the year 1633,
by Taomas BrrpeeMan, in the Clerk’s office of the District Court
of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York, in the

' Second Circuit.

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ADVERTISEMENT

TO THE FOURTH EDITION.

Iris presumed, that this edition of the “‘ Young Gardener’s
Assistant,” will be found generally useful to such as may wish to
superintend, or take the management of their own gardens, The
Author’s object, as stated in the Preface to the first edition, has
been satisfactorily accomplished, which the following statement
of facts will show :

One hundred and fifty copies of that edition were retailed, at
the seed store of Messrs. Thorburn & Sons, within a month after
it was published, and subsequently, upwards of six hundred.—
Messrs. Smith & Co., and other Seedsmen in New-York, have
also been successful in circulating many hundreds of them, and
the author has been gratified by learning, that the publisher of the
last edition placed upwards of six hundred copies in the hands of
the public, within three months after they came from the press.

mH author might here cite the opinions of many practical
gardeners in favour of the work, but after the encouragement
given to previous editions, he is perfectly willing that the present
one should speak for itself. Indeed, to enumerate all the com-
mendations passed on this humble attempt to promote useful
knowledge, would exceed our limits. Suffice it to state, that the
work has been respectfully noticed and recommended to public

atronage, by the editors of the following periodicals: The New-
Fork Advocate and Journal, American, Commercial, Courier
and Enquirer, Evening Post, Gazette, Standard and Traveller,
the New-York Farmer, the American Farmer, and the Albany
Argus, besides many of those periodical publications, devoted to
agricultural pursuits, in different parts of the country.

It appears from an article in the New-York Farmer and Hor-
ticultural Repository, that this little work has been noiiced in
France. The editor informs us, in page 295 of the 4th volume,
dated Nov. 10, 1831, that ‘‘one of the leading articles in the
second number of the present volume of the ‘ Annales de L’In-
stitute Royal Horticole de Fromont? is a long notice of the Young
Gardener’s Assistant, by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this city.
The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, speaks of the little
work in very commendable terms.”

It is not pretended that this work contains copious directions,
calculated to make every man a nurseryman, or propagator of
exotic plants ; but the author flatters himself, that it will be found
to contain sufficient information for those who may wish to be-

¥

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°

Vv | ADVERTISEMENT.

come their own gardeners. ‘The directions for the cultivation of
vegetables, are the result of thirteen years assiduous practice and
observation, as a market gardener; and it is presumed that the
author’s experience in other departments of gardening, has been
sufficient to warrant .him in this attempt to instruct those who
have not hitherto become acquainted with the art. The author
considers it not derogatory to acknowledge, that he has frequently
compared his ideas with those of other authors, and that he has,
in some instances, availed himself of the benefit of their instruc-
tions ; but heis not aware, that in so doing, he has adopted any
ideas merely speculative ; to avoid which, he has invariably sub-
mitted such manuscript to the scrutiny of aged and experienced
gardeners, of his acquaintance, and the result has generally been
such as to confirm him in his original positions.

It must appear evident to the reader, on a review of this little
work, that the author, in adopting the catalogue form, has been
enabled to give as much information as is necessary to the culti-
vation of each particular kind of vegetable, in a condensed form;
whereas, had he pursued the same course as most of his prede-
cessors have done, his book would have been considerably larger,
and the reader must have been at the trouble of perusing the
greater part of it, at least twelve times in the course of a year.—
The author, however, being aware of the convenience of a calen-
dar, has, in this edition, annexed a short one, with a view to assist
the memory of the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that
he may find employment in.some of the departments of gardening
in every month in the year.

The author, having shown his primary object in adopting
the catalogue form, presumes that his readers will not be disap-
pointed, if they do not find there the names of all the species or
varieties of plants they may wish to introduce into their gardens,
the mode of culture of such being generally alike. Ifa catalogue
of this kind was essential, it would occupy’ more space than is
allotted for this book; besides, it would be impossible to keep
pace with our enterprising Horticulturists and Flerists, who are
continually introducing new species into our country, When,
also, it is considered that there are a number of indigenous plants
at present unknown to us, it will appear evident, that the most
extensive catalogue would not be perfect in this respect, for any
length of time. ‘The author, therefore, thought it unnecessary to
attempt any thing more, than that which is essential to the at-
tainment of a tolerable share of the products of the garden,
by ordinary exertion. How far he has succeeded in this respect, © -
must be left for the reader to decide. —

THOMAS BRIDGEMAN.
Bowery Road, March, 1833.

%
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, PREFACE

TO THE FIRST EDITION.
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LZ

Tue object of this little work is to enable our res-
pectable seedsmen, while they are furnishing a cata-
logue of seeds for the use of the Kitchen and
Flower Garden, to afford instructions at a trifling
expense to such of their customers, as may not have
a regular gardener, and thereby save themselves
the blame of those who may not give their seeds a
fair trial, for want of knowing how to dispose of them
in the ground. &

The author being a seedsman himself, is aware
that however anxious his fellow tradesmen may be
to sell such seeds as will please their customers,
they are sometimes charged with dishonest inten-
tions from the failure of seeds, when the fault lies
not with them, but with the gardener. He will
endeavor, therefore, in his humble way, to render
himself useful, both to the seedsman and the gar-
dener, by giving brief directions for the management
of the Kitchen Garden, in such a way as to insure
success. In doing this he would remind the pub-
lic, that as brevity must be consulted in this
work, he cannot be expecied, in a few pages to do
that justice to a subject which. is only to be found in
the books of eminent horticulturists. He hopes,
however, to be sufficiently explicit to give his read-
ers a taste for the pleasurable and profitable, as well
as healthful employment of gardening, and thereby
lead them to the perusal of other works of a more

extensive nature. He also intends to devote a few
1*

Vi _ ‘PREFACE.

pages to the attention of our fair country wo men
and direct them to a rational and delightful recrea-
tion. To this end he will, (after furnishing a cat-
alogue of some of the most esteemed kiuds of flow-
er seeds,) give brief directions for promoting the
growth of these seeds, while in the seed bed, leav-
ing it totheirown good taste and judgment to ar-
range the plants of those beauties of nature, so as to
set them off to the best advantage.

_ The Author is aware that the occupation of gar-
dening is attended with difficulties, but he flatters
himself that in proportion as his readers feel inter-
ested in the welfare. of their vegetable progeny, in
like proportion will they obtain pleasure and satis-
faction in their successful employment. To obtain
this, he would recommend them to make up their
minds as to what vegetables or flowers they intend
to introduce into their gardens, and then, after
having procured good seeds, let them have every
suitable implement ready to begin the work at the
proper seasons for preparing and planting the gar-
den. These will be shown in the following pages,
interspersed with directions on some other impor-
tant subjects connected with this undertaking.

T. BRIDGEMAN.
Bowery Road, January, 1829.

GENERAL REMARKS.

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN,

oe

Berore I commence the Catalogue, it may be
necessary for me to direct the reader’s attention to
some important matters essential to the good man-
agement of a Kitchen Garden.

The mode of laying out the ground, isa matter of
taste, and may be left to the gardener himself ; the
form being a thing of trifling importance in the pro-
duction of useful vegetables, or whether the ground
be laid out in beds of four or ten feet wide, provided |
it be well worked, and the garden kept neat and
free from weeds. \

Those who have not a garden already formed,
should, however, fix on a level spot where the soil
is deep ; but as we have nat alwaysa choice, I would
recommend the reader to that which is within the
reach, and ought to be the object of every man,
namely, tomake the most of what he has.”

To thisend, he may forma border round the
whole garden, from five to ten feet wide, according
to the size of the piece of land ; next to this border,
a walk may be made from three to six feet wide; the
centre part of the garden may be divided into
squares, on the sides of which a border may be laid
out three or four feet wide, in which the various
flowering plants may be raised, unless a separate
flower garden is intended. The centre beds, may
be planted with all the various kinds of vegetables
as well as Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries,
Strawberries, &c. The outside borders facing the

2 GENERAL REMARKS.

East, South and West, will be useful for raising the
earliest fruits and vegetables, and the North border
being shady and cool, will serve for raising, and
pricking out such young ‘plants, slips and cuttings
as require to be screened from the intense heat of
the sun. It may be necessary to state further, that
though shady situations are useful for the pi.rpose
of raising Celery, Cabbage and other small plants,
slips &c., in the summer season, that all standard
“trees should be excluded from a Kitchen Garden,
for the following reasons :—First, their roots spread
so widely and imbibe so much moisture from the
ground that little is left for the nourishment of any
plant within the range of their influence ;—Second-
ly, when in full leaf they shade a large space and
obstruct the free circulation of air, so essential to
the well being ofall plants ;—Thirdly, the drop-
ping of trees is particularly injurious to whatever
vegetation it falls upon.

Previous to entering on the work of the garden,
the gardener should lay down rules for his future
government. In order to this, he should provide
himself with a blank book. In this book he should
first lay out a plan of his garden, allotting a place
for all the different kinds of vegetables he intends
to cultivate. As he proceeds in the business of plant-
ing his grounds, if he were to keep an account of
every thing he does relative to his garden, he would
soon obtain some knowledge of the art. This the
writer has done for the last twelve years, and he

flatters himself that a publication of the results of
his practice, will be interesting and useful to his
readers.

If gardeners were to make it a rule torecord the
dates and particulars of their transactions relative
to tillage and planting, &c., they would always
know when toexpect their seeds to come up, and

GENERAL REMARKS. 3

how to regulate their crops for succession ; and,
when it is considered that plants of the Brassica or
Cabbage tribe, are apt to get infected at the roots if
too frequently planted in the same ground, and that
a rotation of crops in general is beneficial, it will
appear evident that a complete register of every
thing relative to culture is essential to the well be-
ing of a garden.

Une great article to be attended to is, to have a
supply of good old manure and other composts
ready to incorporate with the earth; also a portion
of ashes, soot, tobacco dust and lime, for the purpose
of sowing over seed beds in dry weather ; this will
tend in a great measure to destroy insects, which
sometimes cut off the young plants as fast as they
come up.

If the ground cannot be all manured every year
as it should be, it is of primary importance that
those vegetables be provided for which most need
manure. A perusal of the catalogue will enable
the young gardener to judge of the kinds of garden
products which require’ most. Lest I should not
have been explicit enough in this particular, I would
inform him, that good rich manure is indispensably
necessary for the production of Brocoli, Cauliflower,
Cabbage, Lettuce, Spinage, Onions, Radishes and
Salads in general.

In the event of a scanty supply of manure, those
kinds of vegetables which are raised in hills or
drills, may be provided for by disposing of the ma-
nure immediately under the seeds or plants.

The next important matter is to have ground in
suitable condition to receive the seed. I would
wish it to be understood, that I am an advocate for
early sowing and planting, even at the risk of los-
ing a little seed, provided the ground be fit to re-
ceive it. A light sandy soil will be benefitted if

4 GENERAL REMARKS.

worked when moist, as such treatment will have a
tendency to make it more compact; on the con-
trary, if a clay suil be worked when too wet, it
kneads like dough, and never fails to bind when
drought follows, and this not only prevents the seeds
from rising, but injures the plants materially in
their subsequent growth, by its becoming impervi-
ous to the moderate rains, dews, air and influence
of the sun, all which are necessary to the promo-
tion of vegetation.

Some gardeners, as well as some writers, recom-
mend certain fixed days for sowing and planting
particular kinds of seeds; I think it necessary to
guard my readers from being misled. The failure
of crops may be often attributed to the observance
of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of seeds
be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will
become chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate.
If they be sown in very dry weather, the germina-
tive parts of the seed may become injured by the
burning rays of the sun, or the young plants may
get devoured by insects as fast as they come up.
To obviate these difficulties, | have generally al-
lowed a week or ten days for the sowing of the
seeds, intending the medium as the proper time for
the vicinity of New-York. With this clearly borne
in mind, the reader, who observes the difference in
the degrees of heat and cold in the different parts of
the country, will know how to apply these instruc-
tions accordingly.

Much depends on the manures used on particular
kinds of soils The great art of improving sandy
and clayey soils, is to give the former such dressings
of clay, cow dung and other kinds of manure, as
will have a tendency to bind and make them more
compact, and consequently more retentive of moist-
ure; and to the latter, coats of horse dung, ashes,

~

GENERAL REMARKS. 5

sand, and such other composts as may tend to se-
parate the particles and open the pores of the clay so
as to cause it to approach as near as possible to a
loam.

The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy
soil, the less retentive will it be of moisture ; the
more toa clayey, the longer will it retain it; and
the finer the particles of which the clay is compos-
ed, the more tenacious will it be of water, and con-
sequently be longer in drying, and the harder when
dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water
the longest, without becoming hard when dry, is that
of all others, the best adapted for raising the gener-
ality of plantsin the greatest perfection. This last
described soil is called loam, and isa medium earth,
between the extremes of clay and sand.

I have in most cases recommended drills to be
made at certain depths for the diferent kinds of
seeds, and when I have stated that the drills should
be two inches deep, it is intended that the seeds
should be covered only one inch, which they will
be when planted in these drills and covered—and
so in proportion for any other depth required. This
may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but
circumstances alter cases; if for instance, some
particular crops should fail, this would render it ne-
cessary, if the season be far advanced, to risk a fur-
ther planting of seeds, even ifthe weather be hot
and the ground dry ; if these be planted a little
deeper, they may escape the violent heat of the sun,
and in the event of a shower, the ground would be-
come sufficiently moist to bring them up ; whereas,
it sometimes happens, that seed sown after a show-
er do not vegetate until after the season is too far
advanced to bring the crop to perfection.

The work of drilling may be performed in various
ways; in some cases a plough is used, in others a

6 GENERAL REMARKS.

\

small hoe, or a dibble. drawn along the edge of a
board or line ; itis of little consequence which way
the work is done, if it be well done. While I leave
the gardener to make his own choice of tools, |
would suggest that he be provided with two or three
drilling machines; these, every handy man may
make for himself; they should be in the form of a
garden rake, with astout heavy back and five teeth
two inches broad, and tapered so as toenter the
ground and leave drills two inches deep. If one
be made with the teeth eight inches apart, another
twelve,and another fourteen, they will be useful in
making drills for various seeds, and drills thus made,
serve instead of straining a line, for every row in
planting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leeks, &c., the line
being strained at one edge of the bed, and the dril-
ling machine drawn strait by the line, makes five
drills at once. If they are straight they may be
kept so, by keeping one drill open for the outside
tooth to work in until the ground be all drilled.

Gardeners practice different methods of covering
up seeds, some do it with a hoe, others with a rake
or harrow ; some draw a portion of the earth to the
side of the bed, and after sowing the seeds, return
it regularly over the bed; in some particular cases
a sieve is used, in othersa roller. Rolling or tread-
ing in seeds is necessary in dry seasons, but it should
never be done when the ground is wet.

There is nothing that protects young crops of
Turnips, Cabbages and other small plants from the
depredations of the fly, so well as rolling ; for when
the surface is rendered completely smooth, these in-
sects are deprived of the harbour they would other-
wise have under the clods and small lumps of earth.
This method will be found more effectual than
soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the
plants with any composition whatever; but as the

GENERAL REMARKS. af

roller must only be used previous to, or at the time
of sowing the seed, and not even then if the ground
be wet; it is necessary thatthe gardenershould have
a hogshead always ut hand in dry weather contain-
ing infusions made of waste tobacco, lime, soot, cow
dung, elder, burdock leaves, &c. A portion of
these ingredients, or any other preparation that is
pernicious or poisonous to insects, without injuring
the plants, thrown into a hogshead kept filled up
with water, if used moderately over beds of young
plants in dry weather, would, in almost every case,
insure a successful crop.

As liquid however cannot be conveniently used on
a large piece of land, it may be necessary, if insects
are numerous, to sow tobacco dust mixed with
road dust, soot, ashes, lime or the dust of charcoal,
in the proportion of half a bushel per acre, every
morning, until the plants are free or secure from
their attacks. Turnip seed wil] sometimes sprout
in forty eight hours, Cabbage seed ought to come
up within a week after it issown; but it sometimes
happens that the whole is destroyed before a plant
is seen above ground ; the seedsman, in this case, is
often blamed without a cause. A correspondent
‘has communicated the result of an experiment he
has tried for preventing the attacks of flies or fleas
on Turnips. He says, steep your seeds ina pint of
warm water for two hours, in which is infused 1 oz.
of saltpetre ; then dry the seed and add .currier’s
oil sufficient to wet the whole, after which mix it
with plaster of Paris so as to separate and render it
fit for sowing.

In the summer season, Brocoli, Cabbage, Cauli-
flower, &c., are particularly subject to the ravages of
grubs and caterpillers; to prevent this wholly is
perhaps impossible, but it is not difficult to check
these troublesome visitors ; this may be done, by

td -

S GENERAL REMARKS.
>

searching for them on their first appearance and
destroying them ; early in the morning grubs may
be collected from the earth, within two or three
inches of such plants asthey have attacked the night
previous. The approach of caterpillers is disco-
verable, on the leaves of Cabbages, many of which
are reduced to a thin white skin, by the minute
insects which emerge from the eggs placed on
them; these leaves being gathered and thrown in-
to the fire, a whole host of enemies may be destroy-
ed at once; whereas, if they are suffered to remain,
they will increase so rapidly, that in a few days, the
plantation, however extensive, may become infested ;
now, when once these arive at the butterfly or
moth stage of existance, they become capable of
perpetuating their destructive race to an almost
unlimited extent. The same remarks apply to all
other insectsin atorpid state. Worms, maggots,
snails or slugs, may be driven away by sowing salt
or lime in the Spring, in the proportion of from two
to three bushels per acre, or by watering the soil oc-
casionally with salt and water, to the quantity of
about two pounds of salt to four gallons of water ;
or the slug kind may be easily entrapped on small
beds of plants, by strewing slices of turnip on them
late in the evening ; the slugs or snails will readily
crowd to them, and may be gathered up early in the
morning (before sunrise) and destroyed.

If it be necessary at any time to sow seeds in
dry weather, it is recommended to soak the seeds in
water mixed with sulphur. This practice, with
attentive watering, will cause the seed to vegetate
speedily.

Many kinds of seeds such as Asparagus, Capsi-
cums, Celery, Fetticus, Leeks, Lettuce, Onions,
Parsnip, Parsley, Rhubarb, Salsify, Spinage, and
other light seeds will not vegetate freely unless the

GENERAL REMARKS. 9

ground be watered, or rolled; where there is no
roller on the premises, the following may answer
for small beds as a substitute: after the seed is
sown and the ground well raked, take a board (or
boards) the whole length of the bed, lay them flat
on the ground, beginning at one edge of the bed,
walk the whole length of the board, this will press
the soil on the seed, then shift the boards till you
have thus gone over the whole bed. In the absence
of boards, tread in the seed with your feet, or strike
on the beds with the back of your spade, or shovel.

If it should be requisite to transplant any thing
when the ground is dry, the transplanting should
be always done as soon as the earth is fresh turn-
ed over, and the roots of the plants should be steep-
ed in mud made of rich compost, before they are
set out.

I have in most cases recommended seeds to be
sown in drills drawn from § to 12 inches apart, in
preference to sowing broadcast, because the weeds
can be more easily destroyed by means of a small
hoe; and which, properly used, greatly promotes
the growth of young plants.

The following table maybe useful to the gardener
in showing the number of plants, or trees, that may
be raised on an acre of ground, when planted at any
of the undermentioned distances.

Distance apart. No. of Plants: Distance apart. No. of plants.

1 foot, 43,560 9 feet 537
1 1-2 feet, 19,360 12 feet, 302
2 feet, 10,890 15 feet, 193
2 1-2 feet, 6,969 18 feet, 134
3 feet, 4,840 21 feet, 98
4 feet, 2,122 24 feet, 75
5 feet, 1,742 27 feet, 59

6 feet, 1,210 30 feet, 48

{0 GENERAL REMARKS.

The preceding table may serve as a guide to such
as are not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a
garden, as it shews at one view many proportions
of an acre of land, in squares of different dimensions.
The last line, for instance, shews, that if 48 trees be
planted on an acre, each thirty feet apart, that there
may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet square or
thirty bedsof forty-eightfeet syuare, formed from the
same quantity of land. An allowance of about one
eighth must however be made from the above cal-
culation for walks and paths.

The table may also serve toshow the gardener
how to dispose of any given quantity of manure,
that may be allotted for an acre of ground. — If, for
instance, it requires three hundred and two trees to
plant an acre when placed twelve feet from each
other, it will require as many heaps of manure to
cover the same quantity of ground, if dropped the
same distance apart. It therefore follows that if one
hundred loads be allowed to the acre, each load
must be divided into three heaps. If seventy five
loads only be allowed, every load must be divided
into four heaps, and so on in proportion to the quan-
tity allowed. But ifthe gardener should choose to
drop his heaps, five paces, or fifteen feet apart, hemay
make such distributions of his loads as to have one
hundred “and ninety-three heaps on the acre of
land ; in ‘which case by dividing each load into
four heaps he will require only forty-eight loads to
cover the acre, and he may decrease the quanti-
ty still more, by allowing greater distances from
heap to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller
proportions so as to accommodate himself to what-
ever quantity of manure he may allot to cover any
given quantity of ground.

' q
PG

»

CATALOGUE, Ke.

ARTICHOKE. Articuaur. Cynara.

VaRIETIES.— There ave two principal varieties or spe-
cies of the Garden frtichoke ;—the Cynara Scoly-
mus or French Jrtichoke, and the Cynara Horten-
sis or Globe Artichoke.

It is a perennial plant, producing from the root
annually its large squamose heads, in full growth,
in England, in June or July, until October or No-
vember. The Globe Artichoke, which produces
large globular heads, is best for general culture, the
heads being considerably larger, and the eatable
parts more thick and fleshy. —

Both sorts may be raised from the seed, or young
suckers from the bottom taken off in the spring. A
plantation of Artichokes will continue to produce
good heads six or seven years, and sometimes longer;
but it must be observed, that if a supply of this de-
licious vegetable be required throughout the sea-
son, a small plantation should be made from suck-
ers every spring for a successive crop, as the young
plants will not produce their heads in perfection til!
after the crops of the old standing ones are over.

The most likely way to obtain a supply of Arti-
chokes in this country, is to sow the seed in the lat-
ter end of March, or early in April, in a bed of good
rich earth, or it may be planted in drills one inch
deep, and about twelve inches apart. The ground

should be light and moist, not such as is apt to be- —
Q* Bi a
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”
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12 ARTICHOKE.

come bound up by heat, or that in consequence of
too large a proportion of sand, is likely to become
violently hot in summer, for this is extremely inju-
rious to these plants. After the plants are up, they
should be kept free from weeds, and the earth often
loosened around them.

At the approach of winter they should be covered
up with straw, leaves, or light dry litter, and they
will be fit to transplant in the following spring ; or
the business of transplanting may be performed in
cloudy or wet weather, at any time after the plants
are from nine to twelve inches high. Having fixed
upon a proper soil and situation, lay on it a good
quantity of rotten dung, and trench the ground one
good spade or eighteen inches deep, incorporating
the manure therewith ; this being done, take up the
plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little,
and dressing their leaves, plant them with a dibble,
in rows five feet asunder, and two feet plant from
plant in the row, leaving part of their green tops
above ground, and the hearts of the plants free from.
any earth over them, and give each plant a little
water to settle the roots.

The following method of planting Artichokes is
practiced in Berkshire, (Eng.) ; The plants are plac-
in rows three feet and a half or four feet apart in
the rows, and so deep that a basin may. be formed
round each plant, as it is fond of water, and in the
Fall these basins are filled up by drawing the earth
into them, and the plant is covered up two or three
inches, by rounding up the earth over it.

Some make new plantations with the seeds at
once; this may be done by preparing the ground as
above, and sowing a few grains of good fresh seed
in each spot where a plant might be set, covering
them about three quarters of an inch deep, and

then, by marking each spot with a peg stuck in the
wie

4

ARTICHOKE. 13

ground, the vacant places may be planted with
Cauliflower, Cabbage Plants, Dwarf Beans, Let-
tuce, &c., taking care to keep the plants ata suffi-
cient distance from the young Artichokes,

The winter dressing of Artichokes is an impor-
tant operation ; on it depends much of their future
success. This should not be given them as long as
the season continues mild, that they may have all
possible advantage of growth, and be gradually in-
ured to the increasing cold weather ; but it should
not be deferred to the setting in of hard frost, lest the
entire work be lost.

In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to
the ground, leaving the small ones which rise from
the hearts of the plants; after this, line and mark
out a trench in the middle, between each row, from
fourteen to sixteen inches wide, presuming that the
rows are five feet apart, as directed. Then lightly
dig the surface of the beds from trench to trench,
_ burying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather the
earth round the crowns of the plants to the height
of about six inches, placing it in gently between

the young rising leaves, without burying them en-

tirely under it ; this done, dig the trenches one spade
deep, and distribute the earth equally between and
on each side of the plants, so as to level the ridges,
giving them at the same time a neat rounding form ;
finish by casting up with a shovel the loose earth
out of the bottom of the trenches evenly over the
ridges, in order that the water occasioned by heavy
rains, &c., may immediately run off ; on which ac-
count the trenches ought to havea centle declivity,
as the lodgement of water about the roots in win-
ter, is the greatest evil and danger they have to en-
counter, even greater than the most severe frosts we
are subject to.

14 ARTICHOKE.

The beds are to remain so, until there is an ap-

pearance of hard frost, when they should be cover-
ed with light dry litter, straw, leaves of trees, or the
like, the better to preserve the crowns and roots
from its rigour. In this manner, the roots will re-
main in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as
the very severe frosts are over, the beds must be un-
covered, and when you perceive the young shoots
begin to appear above ground, or rather one or two
inches up, then, and not before, proceed to levelling
down the beds into the alleys or trenches, rounding
them in a neat manner; then dig and loosen all the
earth round the plants; at the same time, examine
the number_of shoots arising on each stool or root,
selecting three of the strongest and healthiest look-
ing on every stool to remain; all above that num-
ber are to be slipped off close to the roots with the
hand, unless you want such to make new planta-
tions with, in which case, any extra number for
that purpose are to remain on the mother plants,
until they are about eight or ten inches high from
their roots, or junction with the old plants, when
they are to be slipped off and planted in a bed pre-
pared in the same manner as directed for the young
plants, taking care at the same time to close the
earth about the crowns of the roots, and drawing it
a little up to the remaining suckers.
_ Observe, the Spring dressing is to be given when
the plants are in the above described state, whether
that happens in February, March or April, occa-
sioned by the difference of climate, or the earliness
or latensss of the Spring.

The gardeners, near London, generally take off
the side suckers, or smal] Artichokes, when they
are about the size ofa hen’segg. These meet with
a ready sale in the markets, and the principal heads
that are left are always larger and handsomer. The

ASPARAGUS. 15

maturity of a full grown Artichoke is apparent by
the opening of the scales ; and it should always be
cut off before the flower appears in the centre ; the
stem should be cut close to the ground at the same
time.

When your Artichoke plantations want manure,
lay on a coat of old rotten dung, previous to the
digging of the trenches in November, and cover it
over with the earth as you throw it up; in the
spring following, dig it in.

ASPARAGUS. Asprerce. Officinalis.

VaRIETIES.— Gravesend—Battersea—Large White
Reading.

Asparagus plants may be raised by sowing the
seeds in the Fall as soon as ripe, or in March, and
the early part of April. It requires some of the
best ground in the garden. The seed may be sown
in drills, ten or twelve inches asunder, and covered
half an inch with light earth. When the plants
are up they will need a careful hoeing, and they
should afterwards be kept free from weeds.

The seed sown in the Fall generally makes the
strongest plants, and will be fit to transplant inte
beds when they are a year old.

A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds are pro-
perly dressed every year, will continue to produce
good buds for twenty years or more.

New plantations of Asparagus may be made in
the months of March and April. The ground for
the bed must not be wet, nor too strong or stubborn,
but such as is moderately light and pliable, so as it
will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and ia

16 ASPARAGUS.

a situation that enjoys the full sun. - It should have
a large supply of good rotten dung three or four
inches thick, and then be regularly trenched two
spades deep, and the dung buried equally in each
trench, twelve or fifteen inches below the surface.
When this trenching is done, lay on two or three
inches of well rotted manure all over the surface,
and dig the ground over again, eight or ten inches
deep, mixing this top dressing, and incorporating it
well with the earth. The ground being thus pre-
pared and laid level, divide it into beds four feet and
a half wide, with alleys two feet wide between
each bed. |

At each corner of every bed, let a firm stake be
driven into the ground, to serve as a mark for the
alleys. Four rows of Asparagus are to be planted
im each bed, and ten or twelve inches distance to be
allowed between plant and plant in the row; and
let the outside rows of each bed be eight inches
from the edge.

Strain your line along the bed eight inches from
the edge ; then, with a spade, cut out a smail trench
or drill close to to the line, about six inches deep,
making that side next the line nearly upright, and
when one trench is opened, plant that before you
open another, placing the plants upright ten or
twelve inches distance in the row.

The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom
of the trench, but nearly upright against the back
of it, and so that the crown of the plants may also
stand upright, and two or three inches below the
surface of the ground, spreading their roots some-
what regularly against the back of the trench, and
at the same time drawing a little earth up against
them with the hand as you place them, just to fix
the plants in their due position until the row is
planted ; when one row is thus placed, with a rake

ASPARAGUS. 17

draw the earth into the trench, over the plants,
and then proceed to open another drill or trench as
before directed ; and fill and cover it in the same
manner, and soon till the whole is planted; then
let the surface of the beds be raked smooth and
cleared from stones.

Some make new plantations with the seeds at
once ; this may be done by preparing the ground
as before directed, and planting a few grains of seed
in each place allotted for a plant ; they should be
afterwards thinned, leaving the strongest plants to
- stand at the same distance every way as before.

A plantation of Asparagus, thus raised, will pro-
duce buds fit to cut the third Spring after sowing,
but will be very large and fine the fourth year.

Winter Dressing of Asparagus Beds.

About the beginning of November, if the stalks
of your Asparagus turn yellow, which is a sign of
their having finished their growth for the season, cut
them down close to the earth, carry them off the
sround, and clear the beds carefully from weeds.

Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing

of good manure ; let it be laid equally over the
beds, two or three inches thick, after which, stretch
a line, and with a spade mark out the alleys from
eighteen inches to two feet wide, agreeably to their
original dimensions.

Then dig the alleys one spade deep, and spread a
considerable quantity of the earth evenly over the
beds; observing to make the edges of the beds
straight, full, and neat, and to finish your work ina
becoming manner, giving a moderate rounding to
beds, especially if the ground be inclined to wet.

The alleys should be afterwards filled up with
leaves or litter well trampled down, which would
in some measure, prevent the frost from entering

18 ASPARAGUS.

that way to the Asparagus roots. The seedling
Asparagus should also have a slight dressing ; that
is, to clear the bed from weeds, and then to spread
an inch or twoin depth of dry rotten dung oyer if,
to defend the crown of the plants from frost.

Spring Dressing of the Beds.

This work should be done from about the latter
end of March, to the middle of April. For the pur-
pose of digging or forking these beds, you should
be provided with a proper fork, having three short
tines, perfectly flat, and about an inch broad; how-
ever, in lieu of such, it may be performed with a
small short pronged dung fork.

In forking the beds, be careful’ to loosen every
part toa moderate depth, but taking great care not
to go too deep to wound the crowns of the roots.

The above work of forking these beds, is most.
necessary to be done every spring, to improve and
loosen the ground, and to give free liberty for the
buds toshoot up. —.

The beds being forked, they must afterwards be
raked even ; observing, if you do not rake them im-
mediately after they are forked, to defer it no long-
er than the first week in April, at which time, a few
Radish seeds may be scattered over them, to pull
up while young.

Asparagus plants will not produce buds large
enough to cut for general use, in less than three
years from the time of planting. But in the fourth
year, when the shoots are three or four inches high,
they will bear extensive cutting. Tie best way of ©
cutting, is to slip the knife down perpendicularly,
close to each shoot, and cut it off slantingly, about
three or four inches within the ground, taking care
not to wound any young buds coming up from the
same root, for there are always several shoots ad-
vancing in different stages of growth.

~

BEANS. 19

The above directions are intended for family gar-
dens. Those who may wish to raise Asparagus in
large quantities for market, may prepare the ground
with a plough, and plant two rows in each bed.
which may be carried to any length required. If
several beds are intended they should be four or five
feet apart, in order that the plough may be worked
freely between them. Fréquent ploughing will
cause the roots to spread, so as to widen the beds :
and the winter dressing may be performed in a
great measure withthe plough. After the Aspa-
ragus is cul, the ground, between the beds, may be-
ploughed, and planted with Cabbage, Potatoes, or
Beans, &c.

BEANS. (Eng. Dwarfs.) Feve pe Marais.
Vicia faba.

VarieTies.—Early Mazagan—Early Lisbon— Ear-
ly Long Pod—Sword Long Pod—Large Windsor
—Kentish Windsor—Taylor’s Windsor—Large
Toker— Sandwich Bean—Mumford— Green Genoa
—Green Windsor — White Blossomed—Red Blos-
somed— Dwarf Cluster—Broad Spanish —Green
Nonparetl— Turkey Long Pod. :

The principal cause of this garden product not
succeeding well in this country, is occasioned by
the Sammer heat overtaking them before they are
podded, causing the blossom to drop off premature-
ly ; consequently, the crops are poor and scanty—
to obviate this difficulty, they should be planted as
early in the year as possible. They are generally
planted in England, from October to April, for early
crops, and from that time to July, for late crops.
It sometimes happens that their plantings are in-

3

20 BEANS.

jured by the extremity of their Winters, but they
never miss having an average crop.

In order to insure success here, I would recom-
mend those who are desirous of obtaining a tolerable
supply of these vegetables, to plant them early, as
it will be recollected that they will be deficient in
quality as wellasin quantity, on the approach of
the warm weather. Ifthe ground should be _froz-
en the last week in January, or early in February,
they may be sown in boxes of earth placed in a light
celler, or in earth on the fioor, and afterwards trans-
planted... If this is not done, let them be planted
as soon afterwards as possibie, in drills two or three
inches deep, and if it should happen that they can-
not be planted by the middle of February in the place
where they are to stand, let some of the early kinds
be sown pretty thick ina bed of light earth; and
when-come up to an inch or two in height, trans-
plant them in rows from thirty inches to three feet
asunder, according to the size and kind, and the
Beans two or three inches distant in the rows.
The method is this: dig a bed about three or four
feet broad, of good earth, in a warm situation ; this
being done, draw broad drills with a small spade,
or common hoe, flatways across the bed, and scat-
ter the Beans pretty thick in the drill, and draw the
earth equally over them ; and thus, if severe frosts
should prevail before they come up, or in their in-
fant state while remaining altogether in the bed,

hey can be readily protected from frost, with frames,
mats, or litter, until fit to transplant. As soon af-
wards as the weather is favourable, let them be
taken up carefully out of the seed bed, with their
full spread roots, and as much earth as will hang
about them, and be carefully transplanted as before
directed, observing to close the earth lightly about
every plant. They will soon take root and grow

BEANS. 21

freely. This method is considered by some as pre-
ferable tothe general method of planting them in
the place where they are to stand, and it is said,
that by transplanting they generally bear several
days sooner. It may be necessary to observe that
a strong clayey soil is the most suitable, but they of-
ten do well in moderately light low ground, pro-
vided it is well trodden or rolled, after the beans are
planted. The early kinds may succeed if planted
in March and April, and it is only from those early
sown that any tolerable produce may be expected
in the United States, especially in the middle and
southern parts.

The Mazagan and Lisbon are the earliest, the
White Blossom Bean is very delicious, and boils
much greener than any other kind ; but the Genoa
bears the heat of our climates better than either of
the others, and therefore is the most suitable for
late crops. ‘The Long Podded Bean is very good,
and bears well; but the Windsor, Sandwich, Toker,
and Broad Spanish kinds, are more esteemed than
any other. The Dwarf Cluster Bean is a great
bearer, never grows above a foot or fourteen inches
high, and may be planted in rows, either in beds or
borders, the rows to be about two feet asunder, and
as this kind branches out considerably from the
root, the Beans must be planted in single rows, and
five or six inches distant from one another.

If all the different varieties are planted at one
time, they will come into bearing in a regular suc-
cession, according to their different degrees of ear-
liness—and it will be necessary to repeat the plant-
ings every two weeks from January to the latter
end of March.

As soon as the Beans are three or four inches
high, they will need a careful hoeing, and if some
earth be drawn up to their stems, three or four

22 BEANS.
times in the course of their growth, it will greatly
refresh and strengthen them.

When they are arrived at full bloom, and the
lower pods beginning to set, the tops may be brok-
en off. If this be done at the proper time, it wili
greatly promote the swelling of the pods, as well as
their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops
to nourish, the whole effort of the root will go to the
support of the fruit.

Broad Beans are particularly subject to a green
bug ; tobacco water, or salt water will sometimes
destroy them ; but the most certain way is to watch .
their first appearance, and to pick off that part, on
which they first settle, and burn it, or if such
plants be cut down close to the ground they will
produce fresh shoots which may bear a good crop.

BEANS. (Kidney Dwarf.) Haricot. Phaseolus.

vulgaris, etc.

Varreties.—Early Yellow Cranberry—Early Mo-
hawk—Early Dwarf Cluster—Early Yellow Six
Weeks—Early Dun Colored or Quaker—Early
China Dwarf—Early Black Dwarf—Large White
Kidney Dwarf—White Cranberry Dwarf—Red
Cranberry Dwarf—Warrington or Marrow—Re-
fugee or Thousand to One—Rob Roy—White Cut-
lass Bean of Carolina—Bonavista.

These kinds of Beans being all excellent, I shall
leave my readers to choose for themselves. The
early kinds will come to perfection in from six to
eight weeks after planting. Some of the other
kinds will keep longer in bearing, and are esteemed
by some on that account. These, with some of the

early kinds, may be planted in the months of May _

and June. Ifa regular succession of young Beans

BEANS, 23

be wanted throughout the summer, some of the
early kinds should be planted every two weeks
from the last week in April until the beginning of
August. These Beans require light rich ‘soil, and
may be planted in hills (three or four ina hill) or
drills about two inches deep, and the Beans two or
three inches from each other; the drills may be
from two to three feet apart. (The Refugees are
best planted in hills). Asthe Beans progress in
erowth, letthem be carefully hoed, drawing the earth
up to their stems at the same time, and they will be
soon fit for the table

The Bonavista isa new Dwarf Bean, by many
considered equal to Lima Beans. They grow near-
ly two feet high

BEANS—(Pole or Running.) HaricoTs a RAMES.
Phaseolus Limensis.

Varreties.—Large White Lima—Sieva or Caro-
. lina.

Phaseolus Multiflorus.

Varieties.—Scarlet Runners—White Dutch Run-
ners——Dutch Case Knife or Princess—Red Cran-
berry— White Cranberry.

The Beans of the latter species may be planted
the latter end of April, and in May and June, either
in hills three feet distant from each other, or in
drills about twoinches deep. The poles should be
eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed in the
ground before the Beans are planted.

The Carolina and Lima Beans should not be
ee in the open ground until the second week
In May, unless the season be very favourable, and

3*

24 BEETS.

the ground warm. As these Beans are apt to get
injured by cold and damp weather, let six or eight
Beans be planted half an inch deep round each pole,
and afterwards thinned, leaving three or four good
plants in a hill, which hills should be from four to
five feet distance from each other every way.

The soil for running Beans should be the same
as for Dwarf kinds, except the Lima, which re-
quires ticher ground than any of the other sorts.

If any of these Beans are wanted earlier than the
ordinary seasons, they may be planted in flower
pots in April, and placed ina green house or garden
frame, and being transplanted in May with the
balls of earth entire, will come into bearing 10 or 14
days earlier than those which are planted in the
natural ground.

BEET. Berrerave. Beta vulgaris, eic.

VarieTiEs.—-Early Blood Turnip rooted—-Early
White Scarcity— Early Dwarf Blood—Long Bloéd
“Red—Yellow Turnip rooted—Mangel Wurze
Sir John Sinclair’s—French Sugar or Amber.

A small bed of the earliest and most esteemed
kinds of Beets may be planted in good rich early
ground towards the end of March, or in the first
week of April, which being well attended to, will
produce good roots in June

Draw drills a foot apart, and from one to two
inches deep; drop the seeds along the drills two or
three inches from each other, and cover them with
the earth. When the plants are up strong, thin
them to the distance of six or eight inches from each _

other in the rows. The ground should be after- _

eh Se
a

BORECOLE AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 25

wards hoed deep round the plants, and kept free _
from weeds. |

Beets may be planted for general crops from the
first week in April, until the beginning of June, in
rich mellow ground, and in case of failing crops,
they may produce good roots in the Fall, if planted
the last week-in June. |

It is always best to thin them out early. Ifthe
tops are used as a vegetable, they should not be left
too long for this purpose, or they will greatly injure
the roots of those that are to stand. Beds that are
tostand through the summer, should be kept clean
by repeated hoeings; and the roots intended for
winter use should be taken up in October, or early
in November.

a

BORECOLE AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS. |
Cuovu FRISE VERT. CHoU DE BRUXELLES A
JETS. Brassica oleracea, var sabellica, ace-
phala, bullata, ete.

VarieTIES.—Green Curled or Fringed Cabbage—
Purple Curled—-Thick Leaved Curled—-Finely
Fringed—Siberian or Scotch Kale-Brussels Sprouts.

For the garden, these may be treated in every
respect as Winter Cabbages:—the seeds may be
’ sown about the middle of May, and the plants set
out in the month of July, in good rich ground. They
are never so delicious as when rendered tender by
smart frosts; they are very valuable plants to cul-
tivate, particularly in the more Southerly States, as
they will there be in the greatest perfection during
the winter months; they will also, if planted ina
gravelly soil, and in a sheltered warm situation,
_bear the winters of the Middle States ; and may be
kept in great perfection in the Eastetn States, if ta-
ken up before the winter frost sets in with much

26 BROCCOLI.

severity, and placed in trenches up to their leaves,
and covered with straw or other light covering: the
heads may be cut off as they are required for use ;
and in the Spring, the stems being raised up, will
produce an abundance of delicious Greens.

This vegetable is frequently raised in England for
cattle, for which, on account ofits luxuriant growth,
it is very profitable; the Brussels Sprouts grow there
from three to five feet high, and produce an abun-
dance of Greens in the winter. ;

There are several sub-varieties of this genus of
plants, Desides those specified, most of which have
large open heads with curled wrinkled leaves ; the
thousand headed cabbage is of this kind, and is

grown chiefly for cattle.

BROCCOLI. Brocour. Brassica pleracea Ttal-

ica, etc.

VarieTIES.—LHarly Dwarf Purple—Early Green—
Large Late Purple-——Dwarf Late Purple—Branch-
ing Purple—Late Green—Brown——White or Cau-
IP iflower “Broccoli— Lar ge Purple Cape—Grange’s
White Cape and Sulphur Cape.

The several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower
may be justly ranked amongst the greatest luxuries
of the garden. They need only bé known in order
to be esteemed. The Broccoli produces heads, con-
sisting of a lump of rich seedy pulp, like the Cauli-
flower, only that some are of a green colour, some
purple, some brown, &c., and the white kinds so
exactly resemble the true Cauliflower as to be
scarcely distinguished either in colour or taste. _

Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England

the greater part of the year, and it is raised with as

little trouble as Cabbages are here. The mode of

BROCCOLI. ; oF

raising the Purple Cape Broccoli is now generally
understood in this part of America; but the culti-
vation of the other kinds, has been nearly abandon-
ed on account of the ill success attending former at~-
tempts to bring them to perfection. In such of the
Southern States, where the winters are not more
severe than in England, they will stand in the open
ground, and continue to produce their fine heads
from November to April. In the Middle, and es-
pecially in the Eastern States, if the seeds of the late
kinds be sown in April, and the earlier kindsin May,
in the open ground, and treated in the same man-
ner as Cauliflower plants, it would be the most cer-
tain method of obtaining large and early flowers ;
but as only a part of these crops can be expected to
come to perfection before the approach of winter,
the remainder will have to be taken up, laid in by
the roots, and covered with earth up to the lower
leaves. |

Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and
Cauliflower in any quantity, so as to have all the
different varieties in succession, should have places
erected similar to some of our greenhouses, the back
and roof may be made of refuse lumber, which be-
ing afterwards covered with fresh stable dung will
keep out the frost. The place allotted for Cape
Broccoli and Cauliflower, should have a glazed roof
to face the South—the sashes must be made to take
off in mild weather, but they should be always kept
shut in severe cold weather, and covered with mats,
or boards, litter, &c. so effectually as to keep out the
frost.

The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved
without glass, by having shutters provided to slide
over the front in extreme cold weather, which may
be covered over with fresh stable dung or other lit-
ter. If these plants get frozen, it will be necessary

28 BROCCOLI.

to keep the full power of the sun ‘rom coming on
them until they be thawed, this may be done by
shaking a little straw over the bed as they lay. It
may perhaps be not generally understood that the
sudden transition from cold to heat, is more destruc-
live to vegetables than the cold itself. If plants of
any kind get frozen, and cannot be screened from
the sudden rays of the sun, they should be well wa-
tered as the air gets warm, and before they begin to
thaw ; this will draw out the frost and may be the
means of saving the plants.

The proper time for sowing the seeds of the Pur-
ple Cape Broccoli, is from the tenth to the twentieth
of May, those who intend to provide a place for the
winter keeping of the other kinds, may sow seeds of
the most esteemed varieties at the same time, or 1n
iwo or three separate sowings, a week apart.

When the plants are of sufficient size, they should
be transplanted into extraordinary rich ground,
which should be brought previously into good condi-
tion. This being done, plant them in rows two
feet and a half apart, and two feet distance in the
rows. As soon as they have taken root, givethe
ground a deep hoeing, and repeat this two or three
times in the course of their growth, drawing some
earth around their stems at the same time.

Such plants as are not likely to produce heads in
the open ground, should, be taken up early in Oc-
tober, and laid in carefully close, together with the
roots and stems covered with earth as far up as the
lower leaves. Those who have not a place provided,
may keep a few in a light cellar, but every garden-
er and private gentleman should have suitable
places erected for a vegetable that yields such a de-
licious repast, at a time when other luxuries of the
garden are comparatively out of our reach.

CULIFLOWER. 29°

CAULIFLOWER. Cuovurtevr. Brassica oler-.
acea botrytis.

Varieties.—Early.——Late.

This isa first rate vegetable ; to obtain which,
great pains must be taken in every stage of its
growth, the extremes of heat and cold being very
much against it. The seeds of the eariy kinds
should be sown between the 16th and 24th of Sep-
tember, in a bedofcieanrich earth. In about four
or five weeks afterwards, the plants should be
pricked out into another bed at the distance of four
inches from each other.every way ; this bed should
be encompassed with garden frames, covered with
glazed sashes, and boards or shutters ; the plants
should be watered and shaded a few days till they
have taken root, they will afterwards require hight
and air every mild day throughout the winter, but
the outsides of the frames must be so lined and se-
cured, and the tops of the beds so covered as to keep
out all frost.

They should be well attended to until the time of
iransplanting inthe spring, and those who have
not hand or bell glasses, so as to enable them to set
some out by the latter end of March, shou!d havea
frame ready about the last week in February, in
order that they may be transplanted to the distance
of eight or nine inches apart; this would prevent
them from buttoning or growing up weak ; if this
be not done, some of the strongest plants should be
taken out of the bed and planted in flower pots,
which may be afterwards placed in a frame or
greenhouse until the weather be warm and settled,
which may be expected soon after the middle of
April. They should be then turned out with the
balls of earth entire, and planted in a bed of the
richest earth in the garden, at the distance of twe

30 CAULIFLOWER.

feet anda half from each other every way ; the
residue may be taken up from the frame the last
week in April, or earlier ifthe season proves mild,
by means of a garden trowel and planted as above.
The plants should be afterwards well attended to
by hoeing the ground deep around them, and bring-
ing the earth gradually up tothe stems, so as to
push them forward before the approach of warm
weather.

The Fail plants are generally allowed to succeed
best, but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produc-
ed from seed sown in a hot bed towards the end of
January, or early in February. Great pains must
be taken to have the bed in good condition to re-
ceive the seed; when the plants are up, they must
have air every mild day, and as they progress in
growth, they should have as much air as possible,
consistent with their preservation, but the beds
must be kept covered up every night as long as
there is any danger of frost. When the plants are
three or four inches high, they must be pricked out
three or four inches apart into another bed, and by
the latter end of April they may be transplanted
into the ground, and treated in every respect the
same as the other. These plants if well managed,
wil] succeed very well, and those that do not flower
by June, may make good heads in Fall.

In the early part of "May, Cauliflower seeds may
be sown. in the open ground, the plants should be
pricked out in June, and transplanted into good
ground early in July, to flower in the Fall: those
that are not likely to flower by the last of October,
should be taken up and provided for in the manner
recommended for the Cape Broccoli.

It will be beneficial in the raising of Cauliflowers
io defend them from the north west winds, by
hedges made of reeds, or pales thatched with straw.

CABBAGE. 3]

CABBAGE. Cuov. Brassica oleracea, etc.

Varieties—Early York—Early Dutch—Knight’s
Early Dwarf—Early Salisbury Dwarf—Early
Emperor—Early Penton—Larly Wellington—
Early Sugar-loaf—Early London Battersea—
Early | Heart-shaped—Early —Imperial—Large
Laie Drum-head—Large Sugar-loaf—Large Late
Battersea—Large Bergen or Great American—.
Green Glazed—Large Scotch, for Catitle—Red
Dutch, for Pickling—Green Globe Savoy— Yellow
Savoy—Turnip Rooted.

The early heads of spring Cabbage may be rais-
ed in various ways. Some sow tie seeds between
the 10th and 24th of September, pricked out and
managed the same as Cauliflower plants, only that
‘they are more hardy, and may be kept through the
winter without glazed sashes. some prefer sow-
ing the seeds in a cold-bed, covered by a garden
frame, and with sashes. If this frame be placed
on a warm border, and kept free from frost, and the
seed of the early kinds sown the latter end of Jan-
uary or eatly in February, these plants will-be bet-
ter than those raised in the Fall ; as they will not
be so liable to run to seed, and they will be more
hardy than those raised on hot beds in the spring.

The gardeners .about New-York sow their seed
on hot-beds covered with glass frames, the last week
in February, or early in March: the plants will be
fit to transplant about the middle of April, and
should be set out: in good ground from sixteen
inches to two feet apart, according to the size and
kind. These, by being hoed often, will produce
good Cabbages in June. Ifseeds of the large ear-
ly kinds be sown in a warm border early in April,
they will produce plants fit to transplant in May,
andwill make good Cabbages for Summer use.

32 CABBAGE.

The seed of Red Cabbage may be sown early in
May, and those of Savoys and late Cabbage in gen-
eral, may be sown at two or three different times,
between the 10th and 25th of May, in fresh rich
ground free from weeds ; the young plants will re-
quire to be watched at this season of the year, and if
they are attacked by insects, recourse must be had
to the ingredients recommended in the general di-
rections ; these if used every evening until the
plants get strong, will bring them forward for wans-
planting in the second or third week in July.

The Bergen and other large kinds should be
planted in rows at least thirty inches asunder, and
the plants about two feet apart in the rows ; the Sa-
voys and smaller sorts may be placed from four to
to six inches nearer every way. Cabbage succeeds |
best in a fresh rich soil, and the ground should be
deeply hoed at least three times during their

rowth.

The Brassica rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces
its bulb or protuberance, on the stems above eround,
immediately under the leaves. ‘ It is eatable when
young, or about the size of a garden turnip.

The seeds may be sown-in April or May, and
the plants afterwards treated the same as Cabbage,
only that in earthing up the plants you must be
careful not to cover the globular part.

They-are much more hardy than Turnips, and in
England the bulbs often grow to upwards of twenty
inches in circumference, and weigh from ten to
twelve pounds. ‘I'hey are cultivated for the feed-
ing of cows and sheep, as well as for table use ; in
either case they treat them as they do Cabbages, or
gow them like Turnips, and afterwards hoe them
out to proper distances. |

The Brassica Napus, or Turnip rooted Cabbage,
has an oblong thick root in the form ofa winter

CABBAGE. 33

radish ; it is extremely hardy, and will survive very

hard frosts ; the seeds should be sown in strong
rich ground, and treated in every respect as Tur-
nips, “observing to thin the plants with the hoe to
the distance of about sixteen inchches apart. Their
roots will be much larger and better when tregtad
in this way, than iftransplanted.

The B. napus, variety esculenta is sometimes ney
tivatedasa salad herb. It is in great esteem by
the French, as a culinary vegetable, and is called
the Navet or French turnip. In France, as well
as in Germany, few great dinners are served up
without it in one shape or other.

COLEWORT, or COLLARDS. Cuovu vert.

Brassica oleracea.

This is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when
young ; it so nearly resembles the early kinds of
Cabbage, that it is very seldom cultivated. The
English prefer sowing the seeds of early heading
kinds of Cabbages, as a substitute, which being
done at different seasons, enables them to procure a
supply of fresh Greens "from their gardens every
day in the year. This is not attainable here, on
account of the extremes of heat and cold; but Col-
lards would prove very valuable and acceptable i in
the event of anunfavourable season for fall Cabbage.

_ Ifthe seeds of Early York, Early Dutch, Dwarf,
or Sugar-loaf Cabbage, be sown in June, July and
August, and transplanted as they become fit, into
goad ground from fifteen to eighteen inches apart,
the first planting would make good heads for fall
use ; and the plants of late sowings, if transplanted
in September and October in.a warm border, would
produce tender sweet eating Greens for use in the
early part*of the Winter ; the latter plantings may,
be placed 10 or 12 inches plant from plant. These

34 CARDOONS AND CARROTS.

could be easily sheltered on the approach of severe
weather, without helng taken up.

es

CARDOONS. Carnon. Cynara carduneulus.

The Cardoon Artichoke is much cultivated im
Europe for Culinary purposes, such as for salads,
soups, stewings, &c.

The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp,
are theeatable parts after being blanched. They
“are in perfection in Autumn and Winter.

The seeds may be sown ina bed of rich earth in
the month of April; when the plants are up strong,
they should be thinned to four or five inches dis-
tance, to prevent their becoming weak. They may
be tr ansplanted in June, at the distance of four feet
froma one another every way ; observe, before plant«
ing, to dress their tops and roots the same as Ce-
lery.: As they advance in growth they are to be
earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves. close
together ; this may be done with bass or matting, as
practiced with Endive ; they are afterwards to be
earthed up gradually from time, to time, until whit-
ened toa sufficient height. As winter approaches.
Cardoons must be taken up and lail away like Cel-
ery, or they may be preservedwith sand in a cellar.

CARROT. Carotte. Daucus tie

VarietiEs.—Early Horn—Long Orange—Blood
Red—Lemon—Altringham.

Of these several varieties of Carrots, the Early
Horn is the earliest, but the Long Orange and Al-
tringham are in greater esteem, on account of their

CELERY. 35

bright orange colour, as well as for their great size
and length. They grow to great perfection ina
rich loamy soil, and may be raised in drills drawn
about one inch deep, and twelve inches asunder.
A small bed may be planted the latter end of
March, for an early crop, and from that time to the
end of June, for succesive crops. i

‘The most suitable ground for the main crop of
Carrots or Beets, is that which may have been well
manured in the Fall for Spinach, and would re- —
quire no fresh manure. If the seed be sown in
May,-and the plants thinned out to the distance of
five or six inches from each other, while young, and
kept hoed, they would yield an abundance of fine
roots for Winter and Spring use, by being taken up
in the Fall, and preserved either in sand in a cellar,
or in graves covered up in the garden.

Carrots are used in England’as fodder for cows,
sheep, oxen and horses. The seed is sown broad
cast and harrowed in; after they have been once
hoed, they are harrowed again ; this loosens the
soll, without hurting the crop, unless the ground
happens to be rough, in which case they go over the
land and clear:the plants from heaps of mould :jiat
may gather about them. They frequently yield
upwards of 300 bushels to an acre.

CELERY. C eri. Apium graveolens.

-VarieTiEs——White Solid-— ose Coloured ‘olid—
North's Giant Red—Iialian—Celeriac, or Turnip
Rooted. .

Those who may want Celery for Summer use,

should sow some seed of the White Solid ina slight

hot bed early in March, but as plants raised in this
a* |

i

36 _ CELERY. |
way are apt to run to seed, it is much better to wait
a fortnight, and sow some in a warm border. The
seed for a general crop should be sown the last
week in March, or early in April, in low but rich
mellow ground ; if it be sown in drills half an inch
deep, and raked in even, it will produce strong
plants by hoeing frequently between the rows.

The early sown plants should be pricked out inte
a nursery bed of rich earth as soon as they are two
or three inches long, there to remain about a month,
after which they will be fit to transplant into the
_ trenches.

Choose for this purpose a piece of rich gr ound, in
an Spee exposure; mark out the trenches by line,
10 or 12 inches wide, and allow the space of three
feet between them, which will be sufficient for the
early plantations. Dig each trench a moderate
spade deep, laying the dug out earth equally on each
side, between the trenches; lay three inches deep
of very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench,
then pare the sides and dig the dung and parings
with an inch or two of the loose mould at the bot-
tom, incorporating all well Neca and put in the
plants. Previous to planting, trim the tops of the
plants, by cutting off the long str aggling leaves, and
also the ends of their roots. Let them be planted
with a dibble, in single rows, along the middle of
each trench, five or six inches between plant and
plant, as soon as they are planted give them a plen-
tiful watering, and tet them be shaded until they
_ strike root and begin to grow.

The m..in crops may be planted in the same way,
but in trenches four feet distant from each other,
and an inch or two further from plant to plant; or
in beds made in the following manner, which for
the ease of preserving the plants in winter, will be

Aa
.

, CELERY. 3T

found extremely convenient, besides a greater quan-
tity can be raised on a given piece of ground.

‘Lay out the ground into beds of four feet wide,
with alleys between, of three feet; dig the beds a
spade deep, throwing the earth on the alleys; when
done, lay four or five inches of good well rotted dung
all over the bottom of the beds, dig and incorporate *
it with the loose earth, and cover the whole with an
inch or two of earth from the alleys; plant for
rows in each bed at equal distances, and from six
to eight inches apart in the rows; after which, give
them a plentiful watering and shade them.

The plants must be hoed occasionally until grown
of sufficient size for earthing, which is done with
the assistance of boards, by laying them along the
rows, to support the leaves while you are. putting in
the earth from the alleys, and removing them. as
you progress in the business.

The earthing should’ never be done when the
plants are wet, as this apt to make Celery rusty,
but should be performed gradually in fine weather
as the plants progress in growth, repeating the
earthing every two weeks, at which time care
should be taken to gather up all the leaves neatly,
and not to bury the hearts of the plants. When
they are grown two feet high, and well blanched,
they are fit for the table. As Celery will grow three
or four feet high in one season, it will be necessary
to delay the planting of that which is intended for
winter use until the latter end of July, but the
trenches should always be got ready soon enough,
to avoid a serious drought, which often delays the
plantings till too late in the season. The blanching
of Celery for winter use may be delayed until Oc-
tober.

The Celeriac, or Turnip Rooted, may be planted
either on level ground or in shallow drills, the roots

)

348 CHERVIL AND CHIVES.

of it swell like a Turnip and may be preserved in.
sand through the Winter. ‘The French and Ger-
mans cut it in slices and soak it a few hours in vin-
egar; by such simple preparation, it becomes as
mellow asa Pine Apple, and affords a delicious and
very nourishing repast.

' * Tnraising Celery on a large scale, the trenches
may be worked out with a plough, and finished af-
terwards with a spade or hoe. The ground may be
also ploughed between each row of Celery previous
to earthing it up ; this will save much labour.

er eee

CHERVIL, or CICELY THE SWEET. | Grr-

FEUIL. Scandix odorata cerefolium.

Chervil is a small salad herb of aromatic proper-
ty ; its leaves are used as salads, and for soup, &c.
The seed may be sown early in the Spring, in drills
half an inch deep and ten or twelve inches apart :
and managed the same as Parsley.

CHIVES, or CIVES. Civetre.. Alin scoro-
doprasum.

This is a small species of Onion, growing in large
tufts; they are propagated by offsets from the root,
and may be planted either in the Spring or Fall, in
rows ten or twelve inches apart, and the bulbs three
or four inches‘apart in the rows; they will soon take’
root, and increase very fast into large bunches of
bulbs.

CORN SALAD, CRESS AND WATER CRESS. 39

CORN SALAD, or FETTICUS. Macue ov

poucETTE. Valeriana locusta, variety olitoria.

The V. L. variety O. grows commonly in the
cornfields in England, hence it is called Corn Sal-
-ad, and from its being sufficiently hardy to stand
the Winter, it has acquired the appellation of Lamb’s
Lettuce, from its affording them an early pasturage.
It is cultivated for salads for winter and early spring
use. The seed may be sown in rich clean ground,
the latter end of August or early in September, and
the plants must be ‘covered with straw at the ap-
proach of severe weather.

eee

CRESS. Cresson. “Lepidium sativum.

VaRIETIES.—Curled, or Peppergr ass—Broad Leaved
Garden.

Cress is also a small salad herb, and is generally
used with lettuce, white mustard or rape. It should
be sown in little drills very thick, (as should the
white mustard and rape,) and cut before it comes
into rough leaf. A small quantity in the salad sea-
son should be sown every week in clean rich
ground.

eee

WATER CRESS. Cresson bE FONTAINE. WNas-
; turtium officinale.

The Water Cress is a creeping amphibious peren-
nial, and is grown very extensively about London
for the markets. Loudon says in his Encyclopedia
of Gardening, that, “ The most suitable descrip-
tion of water isa clear stream, not more than an

40 ' CUCUMBER.

inch and a half deep, running over sand or gravel ;
the least favorable, deep still water, or a muddy
bottom. It is highly advantageous to make the
plantations in newly risén spring water, as the .
plants not only thrive better in it, but in conse-
quence of its being rarely frozen, they generally.
continue in vegetation, and in a good state for ga-
thering through the whole winter season. The:
plants are disposed in rows parallel with the course
of the stream, about eighteen inches apart. When
these plants begin to grow in water one inch~and a
half deep, they soon check the current so as to
raise the water to the height of. three inches above.
the plants, which is considered the most favorable
circumstance in which they can be placed. It is
absolutely necessary to have a constant Current, as
where there is anv apstruction to the stream or place
of water, the plants cease to thrive. After they
have been cut about three times, they begin te
stock, and then the oftener they are cut, the better.”

CUCUMBER. Concomere. Cucumis sativus, etc.

Varieties.—Early frame—Long Prickly-—Short
Prickly— Long. Green Southgate—Long Green
Turkey— Long White Turkey—Green Cluster—_
White Spined—Small Gherkin or West India.

The most suitable kinds of Cucumbers for early
planting are the Early Frame, Green Cluster, and
Long Prickly. These may be planted in the open
ground the first week in May, in hills four feet apart.
Previous to planting, the ground should be prepared
by incorporating a shovel full of rotten dung with
the earth in each hill, after which four or five seeds
may be planted half aninch deep. Cucumbers

EGG-PLANT. 7 4]

are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly, which
sometimes devours all the young plants; these and
other insects may be killed by sowing tobacco dust,
soot, or powdered charcoal round about the Vines
when they first come up. After this be done, the
plants may be thinned to two or three in a hill, and
the ground carefully hoed, drawing a little earth
round them at the same time. Before the vines
_ begin to run, they should be stopped , this is done
by pruning off the top of the first runner bud, which
will promote a stocky growth, and cause them to
put forth lateral shoots at the first and second joints,
to form fruitful runners; and from these, others of
the same nature will be produced. Cucumber
vines should be kept free from weeds, and if the
weather proves dry, a gentle watering now and
then given in the evening will be of considerable
service. |
Picklers may be raised by planting the seeds at
any time in July. When the vines begin to bear,
they should be looked ov-r, and the fruit gathered
as fast as it becomes fit, as the plant will cease to
bear much if the fruit be permitted to get yellow.

EGG-PLANT. Mé&Loncenz ov AUBERGINE.
Solanum melongena.

VarieTiEs.—Purple, (for culinary purposes)— White,
(ornamental. ) ,

The seed of the Purple Egg-Plant must be sown
in a hot-bed about the first of March, and the sashes
kept down close until the plants come up, after
which a little air may be given in the heat of the
day. ‘Towards the middle of May, the plants
should be set out from twenty-four to thirty inches
apart, in a rich warm piece of ground, and if kept
clean, and a little earth drawn up to their stems

*

ee © faen ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY.

when about a foot high, they will produce plenty
of fruit.

The plants of the white ‘ind may be raised in
the game manner, and transplanted into pots in
‘May, or if some of the seed be sown in a warm
place the first week in May, they will come to per-
fection in course of the summer.

*

ENDIVE, on SUCCORY. Curcoreé prs gar-

pins. Cichorium endiva.

VariETIES.—Green Curled—White. Curled—Broud
Leaved Batavian.

The proper kind of Endive for early sowing, is
the Green curled. A small quantity of this may
be sown at different times in April and May, for
those who would have it early. These crops will
be very apt to run to seed ; for this reason, it will be
best to delay the sowing of seeds for general crops
until June and July. If asmall quantity of. each
kind of seed be sown two or three times in these
months, they will produce a plentiful supply for
use in the fall and early part of the winter When
the plants are three or four inches high, they should
be transplanted into good ground, to the distance of
a foot from each other, and immediately watered ;
or if they are set out in cloudy or wet weather, it
will save this trouble. The plants will require to
‘be hoed and attended to in the same manner as
Lettuce, until grown toa moderate size, when they
must be blanched. Select the large and full-heart-
ed plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a
little above the middle, not too tight, previously ga-
thering up the leaves regularly i in the hand. This
must be done when the leaves are very dry, other-
wise the plants will rot.

GARDEN BURNET AND INDIAN CORN. 43

GARDEN BURNET. PimpreNneLLe. Poterium

sanguisorba.

The common Garden Burnet is a native of Eng-
land, and grows wild in dry calcareous soils. It has
fibrous roots, and retains its leaves throughout the
year, but the stalks are annual. It has long been
cultivated as a choice salad herb. The leaves be-
ing of a warm nature, are also used in cool tank-
ards, and for imparting an agreeable flavour to wine
and cider. - The seed may be sown in drills about
an inch deep, and twelve inches apart, in March or
April; at which time, the roots of old plants may
be parted off, and the slips planted out separately.

ee

INDIAN CORN. Mats. Zea mayz.

Varteties.—/ arly Golden Siouz—Early Canadian
—Early Jefferson—-Sweet or Sugar—--Large
Southern Horsetooth— Large Flour White—Non-
pareil or Pearl (Curious)—-.MVottled—-Curious
White.

«

The different. kinds of Early Corn intended for
boiling when young, or others as curiosities, may
be planted in the garden the last week in April, in
hills four feet apart, orin drills. If some of each be
planted in separate beds at the same time, they will
come in for the table one after the other in regular
succession. After this, if any particular kind be
preferred, it may be planted at different plantings
in Mayand June. If the ground be poor, mix a
shovel full of old manure with the earth in each hill
before the seeds are planted, and after the plants
are up strong, scatter a tea-cup fullof wood ashes
around each hill. This, with attentive hoeing and
hilling, will cause it to produce ears early. Deep

“44 LEEK AND LETTUCE.

digging between the hills is very beneficial when
the corn is about eighteen inches high. |

LEEK. Poirreav. Allium porrum.
VarietiEs.—Large Scotch or Welch Flag——London.

This isa wholesome and useful herb, and is so
‘hardy as to endure the extremes of heat and cold
without injury. The seed may be sown in March
or early in April, on a bed of rich earth, either broad
cast, or in drills an inch deep. If the ground be
kept loose and clean, the piants will be large
enough to transplant in June or early in July, and
should be set out in good ground, in rows twelve
inches asunder, and the plants five or six inches
apart in the rows. They will grow wellin a warm
border, which at this season is useless for many
. kinds of vegetables. After the plants have taken
root, they should be frequently hoed and kept free
from weeds.

Those who wish to have leeks blanched, may
plant them in trenches three or four inches deep,
and as the plants progress in growth the earth
should be drawn into the trenches. —

LETTUCE. Laitue Lactuca sativa crispu.

Varieties—LEarly Curled Silesia—Large Green
Head, or Cabbage—Imperial—Hardy Green—
Brown Dutch—Grand Admiral— Madeira, or
Passion---Tennisball, or Rose---Drumhead---Mag-
num Bonum Coss---Ice Coss---White Coss or Loaf---

Green Coss. 4

The seeds of the Hardy kinds of Lettuée may be
sewn from the first to the middle of September in

MELON. | 45

rich ground free from weeds ; it answers very well
sown with Spinach, and should be covered over with
straw at the approach of severe weather. These
plants, if transplanted into warm borders, or in
the open ground as early in March as the weather
permits, will produce fine heads early in May.
The best of the tender kinds may be raised early,
by sowing the seeds in hot beds the first week in
March, which being transplanted into good ground,
will produce fine heads before the approach of warm
weather. The other kinds may be sown in warm
borders in March or April and transplanted in May.
The Coss Lettuce requires to be blanched ; thiis is
done by gathering up the leaves of the plants, and
tying bass round them when grown to perfection.

All kinds of Lettuce intended for heading, should
be planted into good ground twelve inches distant
from each other every way; the plantsshould be
carefully hoed every other week during their
growth ; the first hoeing should be done in about
two weeks after they are transplanted.

If head Lettuce be required at other seasons than
the spring, it may be obtained in the fall by sow-
ing the seed in August, or in the winter by means
of a graden frame and glazed sashes.

MELON. Meton. Cucumis melo.

VarRiETIES---Green Citron---Murray’s Pine Apple---
Persian---Nutmeg--- Large Cantaleupe--- Pomegra-
nate, or Musk Scented---Star---(a few extra kinds
from Europe in 25 cent papers.)

The Melon is an exotic plant, growing wild in
Asia. Itis cultivatedin all the warm countries of

46 MELON.

Europe, and also in Africa and America, where its
salubrious and cooling fruit is greatly esteemed.

For the varieties of the Musk or Cantaleupe Me-
lons, prepare a piece of rich ground the first week
in May, manure it and give it a good digging ;
then mark it out into squares of six feet every way ;
at the angle of every square dig a hole twelve
inches deepand eighteen over, intowhich put seven
or eight inches deepofoldrotten dung, throw there-
on about fourinches of earth, and nix the dung and
earth well with the spade, after which draw the re-
mainder of the earth over the mixture, so as to form
around hill about a foot broad at top. When your
hills are all prepared as above, plant in each towards
the centre, eight or nine grains of good melon seed,
distant two inches from one another, and cover
them about halfan inch deep. When the plants
are up and in astate of forwardness, producing
their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or
three in each hill; draw earth from time to time
round the hills, and as high about the roots of the
plants as the seed leaves. As soon as the plants
spread into branches they should be stopped, by
pinching off the top of the first runner bud as di-
rected for Cucumbers; after which keep the
ground perfectly free from weeds by frequent hoe-
ings. | |

*Phose who wish to raise Melons in perfection,
must be careful to plant them remote from an in-
ferior sort, also from Cucumbers, Squashes, and
Gourds ; as degeneracy will infallib'y be the con-
sequence of inattention to these paiticulars. Ta
prevent the ravages of flies &c., see Cucumber.

MELON. AND MUSTARD. 47

WATER MELON. Meton p’gav. Cucurbita
citrullus.

VariETIES---Carolina Water---Long Island Water
---/lpple Seeded Water.

The Water Melon, though by some considered
a species of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic
plants. They atford a very refreshing article of
diet in our warm summers. Dr. Pallas, in the ac-
count of his journey to the southern provinces in
Russia in 1793 and 94, speaking of a colony of
Moravians at Sarepta, or Sapa on the river Volga,
says, “the ingenious inhabitants of this town brew
a kind of beer from their very abundant and cheap
Water Melons, with the addition of hops; they also
prepare a conserve or marmalade from this fruit,
which is a good substitute for syrup or treacle.”

In order to have Water Melons in good perfection,
you must fix upon a piece of very rich light soil ;
prepare, sow, and manage it in every respect as is
directed for the others, only let the hills be nine or
ten feet distant every way.

MUSTARD. Movrarpe. Sinapis, ele.

The Alba, or White Mustard, grows spontaneous-
ly in the fieldsin England, it is also cultivated as a
small salad, as wellas for seed. The seed yields
from every 100 pounds, from 33 to 36 pounds of
sweet mild oil.

The Nigra, or Common Mustard, is also a na-
tive of England. The condiment, called mustard,
and in daily use at our tables, is prepared from the
seeds of this species.

5

4S MUSTARD AND NASTURTIUM.-

The Erysimumis a genus of plants comprising
ten species, four of which are natives of Britain.

1. The Officinale. This species possesses a
warm and acrid flavour; and when cultivated is
used as an early pot herb. Its seeds taken inter-
nally promote expectoration, the dicharge of urine,
and other fluid secretions. The juice has been
employed with unparalleled success in ulcers of the
throat, &c.

2. The Barbarea, or. Winter Cress, is deed as a
salad in spring and autumn: some boil them as
Kale.

3. The Alliari is also cultivated as a salad. The
Prussians eat the leaves in the spring with salted
meat. In Wales it is frequently used as a frying
herb, and in England the leaves are used with Let-
tuce, &c.

4. The Cheiranthoides is eaten by horses, cows,
goats, sheep and swine ; and is used by the coun-
try people for destroying worms. —

The seeds of all the kinds of Mustard may be
sown in clean rich ground in April and May ; and
for a fall salad in September, in shallow drills.

NASTURTIUM. Capucine. Sylvestre.

There are of the Nasturtium a major and a mi-
nor kind; the former being of a large running
growth is ‘the most productive. The seeds of the
running kind should be sown in April or early in
May, in drills about an inch deep, near fences, or
pales ; or trellises should be fixed on which they
ean climb and have support; for they will always
be more productive in this way than when suffered
to trailon the ground. The dwarf kind may be
planted in hills, two or three seeds in a hill,

OKRA AND ONION. 4

OKRA. Gomso. Hibiscus esculentus.

The green capsules of this plant are used in soups,
and its ripe seeds, if burnt and ground like coffee,
can scarcely be distinguished therefrom.

The seed should be planted in good rich eround,
the first or second week in May. Draw drills about
two inches deep, and four feet assunder, into which
drop the seeds at the distance of six or eight inches
from one another, or rather drop two or three in
each place, lest the one should not grow, and cover
them near an inch in depth ; as they advance in
growth thin them out, earth them up two or three
times, and they will produce abundantly.

ONION. Oj1enon. Allium Cepa.

VarintTies.— White Portugal—Yellow Dutch--White
Spanish—- Silver Skinned—-Strasbur ‘gh—--Large
Deptford Red.

Of the several varieties of Onions, the Strasburgh
and Large Deptford Red are the best for a general
crop. The bulbs are handsome, of firm growth,
and keep well through the winter. The White Por-
tugal and Silver Skinned Onions are of a mild taste,
and generally turn out very profitable crops.

Previous to sowing onion seed for a general crop,
the ground should be well prepared by digging in
some of the oldest and strongest manure that can |
be got. The earlier this be done in the spring the
better ; and the planting should not be delayed lon-
ger than the middle of April. The seed may be
sown broad cast, or in drills one inch deep and
twelve inches apart. When the plants are up strong
they should be hoed. Those beds that are to stand

50 ONION.

for a full crop, should be thinned out while young,
to the distance of two or three inches from each oth-
er; if a few should be required for use after this,
those can be taken which incline more to tops than
roots, and if the beds be frequently looked over and
the small and stalky plants taken away where they
stand thickest, the remaining bulbs will grow toa
larger size. The ground should be hoed at least
three times in the early part of their growth ; but if
the season proves damp, and weeds vegetate luxu-
riantly, they must be removed by the hand, because,
after the Onions have begun to bulb, it would be im-
proper to stir them with a hoe.

When the greenness is gone out of the tops of
Onions, it is time to take them up, for from this time
the fibrous roots decay. After they are pulled, they
should be laid out to dry, and when dry, removed
io a place of shelter.

Tie small Onions may be planted in the spring
following ; even an Onion which is partly rotten
will produce good bulbs, if the seed stems be taken
off as soon as they appear.

The Alium Fistolosum, or Welsh Onions, are cul-
tivated for spring salad; they form no bulbs, but
are very hardy. If the seed be’ sown early in Sep-
tember in rich ground, although the crops may die
down in the Winter, yet the roots will continue
sound, and put up new leaves early in the spring.

The Alium Proliferum, or Tree Onion, is propa-
gated by planting the bulbs in spring or autumn,
either the root bulbs, or those produced on the top
of the stalks; the latter, if planted in the spring,
will produce fine Onions. These may be planted
in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots.

The Potato Onion is of late introduction into this
country. It does not produce seed as other Onions,
but is increased by the root. One single Onion will

PARSLEY AND PARSNIP. 5%

produce six or seven in a clump, underground, simi-
lar to potatoes.

The bulbs are generally planted in the spring,
from twelve to eighteen inches apart, but they will
survive the winter, if planted in the fall, by being
slightly covered. |

ee!

PARSLEY. Persiz. Apiwm petroselinum.

VarRIETIES.—Curled, or Double—Siberian—Ham-
burgh, or Large rooted—Dwarf Curled.

As Parsley seed, sown late in the season, is apt
to lay in the ground some time before it vegetates,
the general crop should be sown by the early part
of April, in drills an inch deep, and one foot asun-
der. After the plantsare up, let them be kept clean
by frequent hoeings. In order to have Parley
green through the winter, the old leaves should be
picked off in September. If some of the roots be
taken up early in November, and laid in a frame or
light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long time ;
the remainder may be covered up with straw in the
place where it grows.

ee

PARSNIP. Panars. Pastinaca satwa.
VariEtiEs.—Large Dutch, or Swelling.

Parsnip seed may be sowed from the middle of
March to the last week in April, in drills one inch
deep and fourteen inches apart ;_ but as this vegeta-
ble requires the whole season to grow in, the sooner
the seed is planted the better. Parsnips grow best

52 PARSNIP.

e.
in a deep soil manured well the preceding fall. Sow
the seeds thick along the drills, and rake them in
evenly.

When the plants are two or three inches high, |
thin them to the distance of six or eight inches in
the rows. They should be kept free from weeds by
regular hoeings through the summer; and in the
fall they will be fit for use.

PEPPER. Potvre ov PIMENT. Capsicum annuum.

Varieties.—Long or Cayenne—Tomato or Squash
Shaped—Bell or Ox-Heart—Cherry—Bird or
West Indian. |

The seeds of the different kinds of Capsicums
may be sown ina hot bed in March, or on a warm
border early in May. The plants may be after-
wards transplanted into good rich ground from
eighteen inches to two feet distant from each other.

Those who do not want Peppers early in the sea-
son, may sow the seeds in the open ground in May,
in drills two feet asunder, and half an inch deep.
When the plants are grown an inch or two high, thin
them to the distance of fifteen or eighteen inches in
the rows. The ground should be afterwards hoed
deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds by
repeated hoeings. :

PEAS. d 53
PEAS. Pours. Pisum sativum.

VARIETIES.—Early Washington (or May Pea,)
grows to the height of 21-2 feet—Early’ Dou-
ble blossomed Frame 3 feet—Early Nimble Dick
2 1-2 feet—Early Frame 2 1-2 feet—Early
Golden Hotspur 3 feet—Early Charlton 3 feet
—arly Petersburg 2 1-2 feet—Dwarf Blue
Imperial 2 feet—Dwarf Blue Prussian 2 1-2
feet—Dwarf Prolific, or Poor Man’s, or Straw-
berry 1 1-2 feet—Dwarf Spanish or Fan, 1
foot—Dwarf Marrowfat 3 1-2 feet-—-Dwarf
Sugar, (eatable pods) 3 feet—Dwarf White
Albany 11-2 feet (Field Pea)---New Nonpareil
3 feet---Ladies’ finger Marrows---Waterloo
Blues 4 feet--- Matchless or true Fall Marrowfat
6 feet---Large Gray Rouncival 4 feet--- Dutch
Gray 2 1-2 feet --Knight’s Tail Marrows, or
Honey Pea 6 feet---Knight’s Dwarf Marrows
2 feet---Tall Crooked Podded Sugar 6 feet,
(eatable pods) --Dwarf Green Albany 1 1-2 feet
(Field Pea.).

The above list and description of the most esteem-
ed kinds of Peas, is taken from the Catalogue of
the Messrs. Thorburn and Sons of New-York. If
they are rightly described, they will grow to difier-
ent heights, according to soil and season. This de-
scription, however, may serve asa guide for the
gardener in planting. The Dwarf Peas require
less distance between row and row, and shorter
sticks than the tall kinds.

Planting the early kinds of Peas should com-
mence as soon in the spring as the ground can be
brought into good condition : all the other sorts, as
well as the early, will answer for successive crops ;
to obtain which, afew of the most esteemed kinds

54 PEAS.

should be planted at the same time every two weeks,
from March until the end of May. Persons desirous
of having Peasthroughout the summer and fall, may
plant a few in June, July and August. The Peas
should be then soaked in soft water five or six hours
before planting, and if the ground be dry it should
be watered in the drills.

Gardeners practice different modes of planting
Peas ; some plant them in ridges, others in drills,
some in single rows, others in double,.some use
sticks for the dwarf kinds, and others not; those
who study neatness will have them all rodded
though the most dwarfish may do without.

All the different sorts of Peas may be planted in
double or single cows from four to six feet apart ac-
cording to the different heights they may be expect-
ed to grow. If twodrills be made three inches
deep, and six or eight inches apart, and the seed
dropped along each drill moderately thick, they will
yield better than single rows, and will save sticks.
When the plants are two or’ three inches high let
them be hoed, drawing at the same timea little
earth up ‘to their stems, when they get to double
that height let them be hoed again, at the same
time place a row of sticks in the middle of your
double rows, and a few shorter and smaller ones on
the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climb-
ing to the main support. You must be governed as
to the length of your sticks by the description of
your peas. ‘There is a great advantage in having
sticks of a suitable height, to the various kinds of
Peas; the sticks should not only be sufficiently tall
but also branchy, that the plants may readily take
hold; and they should be prepared fan-fashion, so
that the side branches may extend only along
the rows. As the plants progress in growth, let
them be repeatedly hoed and earthed up ; this will
promote a plentiful bearing.

POTATOES. > ee

POTATOES. PommenpeE TERRE. Solanum

tuberosum.

The varieties of Potatoes being very numerous, it
is unnecessary for me to point out any particular
kinds; some of the earliest should however be plant-
ed first in the spring, to produce young Potatoes in
due season, but they are not so suitable for a full
crop as the late varieties.

Potatoes beimg of such extensive utility, various
expedients have been contrived with a view to find
out the best method of preparing the seed. In
many parts of England (where Potatoes equal to
any in the world are raised,) the farmers never plant
Potatoes whole, they take the Potatoes as they
come to hand, and in cutting them take care to
have two good eyes In each set, the small! Potatoes
are deprived of the sprout or nose end, as it is gener-
ally considered that this is essentially necessary to
the production of a good crop. Ihave frequently
known from five to 600 bushels raised from an acre
with small Potatoes alone, cut in this way. Some
prefer planting the Potatoes immediately after they
arecut; the better way is to get them cut one or
two weeks before the time of planting, and to lay
them. out on a barn or garret floor to dry.

Potatoes may be planted from the first week in
April until July, either in hills or drills; the best
way fora garden is to plant them in drills four or
five inches deep, and about thirty inches asunder,
the sets may be dropped six or eight inches apart,
and if a small quantity of combmaker’s horn shav-
ings-or sea weed be used as a manure for the early
kinds, it will expedite their growth; the ground
should be hoed as soon as the plants come up, and
as they progress in growth it will be proper to mould
or earth them up twice.

56 POTATOES AND PUMPKINS.

POTATO, SWEET. Pomme DE TERRE, DOUCE.
Convolvulus batatas, ;

Sweet Potatoes may be raised in the vicinity of
New-York, by meais of a hot bed; they should be
planted whole, early in April, three or four inches
deep and about the same distance apart. _ In about
a month they will throw up sprouts. When these
are three inches above ground, part them off trom
the Potato, which if suffered to remain will pro-
duce more sprouts for a successive planting ; trans-
plant them into rich light soil in rows four feet apart
and the plauts about a foot apart, in the rows, or in
hills four feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until
the vines begin to cover the ground, after which
they will grow freely. |

In sandy ground it is well to put a shovel full of
rotten manure to each plant.

PUMPKINS. CrtTrovIt_te ov Potiron. Cucur-
bita pepo.

VarieTieEs—Large Cheese—Connecticut Field—
Finest Yellow Family— Mammoth.

Pumpkins are planted in hills which reyuire to
be eight on ten feet apart, two or three plants will
be sufficient in each ; they are not so tenacious ofa
particular soil as either Melons or Cucumbers, but
will grow freely in any dry and tolerably rich
ground ; the seed may be planted in May and June,
in the open ground, and the plants should be kept
constantly clean and free from weeds.

When you intend to cultivate either Melons, Cu-
cumbers, Squashes, Pumpkins, or the like kinds,
on an extensive scale, you can prepare the ground
with the plough, which will save much labour ;

PATIENCE DOCK AND RADISH. - 57

and also, afterwards as the weeds advance, plough
and harrow between the plants till they begin to
run, after which, the hoe must be used. :

PATIENCE DOCK. RHUBARBE DES MOINES.

Rumex patientia.

The Ruinex Patientia is perennial; the leaves
are large, long and succulent, and are by some
very much esteemed. The plant may be propa-
gated by offsets from the root, taken off in the
spring, or late autumn months, and planted in rows
eighteen inches asunder, and eight inches from one
another in the rows. If the seed be sown in Octo-
ber or November, it will.rise freely in the spring,
or it may be planted in March or April, in drills one
inch anda _ half deep, and eighteen inches apart,
and afterwards thinned to the proper distance.

RADISH Rapis ov rave. Raphanis sativus,
ete.

Varirties—Early Frame—Early Scarlet—Shori
Top—Long Salmon—Purple Short Top— Long
White Summer, or Naples—Cherry or Scarlet Tur-
nip rooted—Violet coloured Turnip—White Tur-
nip rooted—Black, Fall or Spanish.

Those who are desirous of having good Radishes
early in the spring, should have a warm border pre-
pared in the very best manner, so as to be ready to
sow some of the short top scarlet by the middle of
March. Ifthe ground should not be in good con-
dition to receive the seed at this time, let it be de-
layed a few days; and by the first of April take
care to have another bed prepared in the open

58 ROCAMBOLE AND RHUBARB.

eround, by digging in some good strong manure.
The seed may be sown broadcast, and raked ev enly
in. Ifyou wish to have Radishes in regular suc-
cession, sow seeds of the most esteemed kinds eve-
ry two weeks until the middle of May: if any be
sown after this, it should be the White Turnip or
Black Spanish, these will endure the heat better
than the others, and may be sown in drills in small
quantities throughout the summer, until the latter
end of August, when the other kinds may be sown
in regular succession until the first of October.
Market gardeners may prepare the ground witha
plough, and cover such seeds as may be sown
broadcast with a harrow.

ROCAMBOLE. Art v’espacne. Allium scor-

odoprasum.

This and the Allium Sativum or common Gar-
lic, is raised insome gardens. Many people con-
sider tlie Rocambole to be of a milder and better
flavour, but the bulbs are not so large as those of
the Garlick.

This is a very hardy plant, and will grow in al-
most every soilor situation. © It is propagated either
by the roots or seeds, the former ought to be sepa-
rated and planted, at the same ue and in the
same manner as Shallots.

When riised from seed ; they may be sown in
drills either shortly after the seeds are ripe, or in the
succeeding Spring; they require only to be kept
clear of weeds ; and, in the following autumn, may
be taken up, the bulbs parted, and planted as be-
fore

RHUBARB. 59

RHUBARB. Ruvzarse. Rheum. —

Rhubarb is a genus of exotic plants, comprizing
seven species, of which the following are the prin-
cipal :—

1. The Rhuponticum or Common Rhubarb, a
native of Thrace and Syria, which has long been
cultivated in British gardens for the footstaiks of
the leaves, that are frequently used in pies and
tarts.

2. The Rheum Undulatum is also cultivated for
the same use.

3. The Palmatum or True Officinale Rhubarb,
is a native of China and the East Indies, whence
its culture has been introduced into Europe ; it pro-
ducesa thick fleshy root, externally yellowish brown,
but internally of a bright yellow colour streaked
with redveins. It grows.tu good perfection in Scot-
land as far North as Perthshire, (Lat. 56 ;) also in
England, Turkey, and various other parts of Eu-
rope. When the importance of this root is consid-
ered as a medicine, it is a matter of astonishment
that it has not been more generally introduced into
the United States.

The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagat-
ed by offsets, taken from the roots early in the
Spring; or from seed sown late in the Fall, or in
March and the early part of April. The indispen-
sable points to the production of good roots of the
Palmatum, are depth and richness of soil, which
should be well pulverized before the plants are set
out. Prepare beds of fine mould eighten inches
deep; in these put in the plants from the seed bed,
ten or twelve inches apart, this must be done
when they have attained the height of four or five
inches, and have thrown out as many leaves.

The first season is the most critical, and much
care is necessary. If pe weather be hot, the nur--

6

/

60 RHUBARB.

sery must be shaded, and at all events continually
watered ; for water, though hurt/ul to old plants, is
now of the first consequence. Wet weather is the
most proper time to plant in. The beds must be
kept free from weeds through the Summer, and on
the approach of severe weather, covered up with
dry litter. In the early part of the Spring this must
be taken off, and in the beginning of April the
plants must be transplanted into ground dug and
prepared as directed for Asparagus. Those who
cultivate the Palmatum for the sake of the roots,
should dig the ground two or three spades deep, and
place the plants four feet apart every way. As to
the other kinds it is not so particular, so as the
plants have room to grow. In the early part of No-
vember, the leaves ‘being then decayed, the beds
should be covered with dry litter ; before this be
done, a little earth should be draw n round the
crowns of the plants. If there be any danger of
_ water lodging, make trenches to carry it off. In
the month of March the beds should be stripped of
their covering, and the ground well hoed and clear-.
ed of weeds. If Rhubarb stalks be required for use
early in the spring, they mvy he obtained by plac-
ing flour barrels or deep tubs over some of the
plants, and covering them up with fresh stable
dung. Some make the beds at once with the seeds;
the objections to this plan are, first, that the plants
cannot be so well protected in the early part of their
growth as those -aised in smail beds ; and, secondly,
that the ground becomes so hard in the course of a
year as to prevent the roots from running to the
depth they otherwise would.

The roots of the Palmatum must not be taken up
until six or seven years old. The stalks of the other
kinds may be cut every spring as soon as the leaves
are expanded. After being stripped of their outer

SALSIFY. - 61

covering and cut up into small pieces, they
are used in pies and tarts. Cobbett supposes,
“that a hundred wagon loads of Khubarb stalks are ~
annually sold in the markets of London, at a shilling
sterling per bunch.” (American Gardener. ) Rhu-
barb makes an excellent preserve when cut into
small pieces about an inch and a half long, and
parboiled with sugar.

In England, large drying houses have been erect-
ed, for the purpose of curing the roots of the Pal-
matum; but this business may be done in this
country as it isdone in China: by the heat of the
sun, After the roots have been well washed, the
small fibres should be cut off. These are then cut
transversely into pieces of about two inches thick,
and dried on boards, turning them several times a
day, in order to prevent the escape of the yellow
juice, on which its medicinal qualities depend, In
four or five days, they may be strung upon strings,
and suspended in a shady, but airy and dry situa-
tion, and in two months afterwards it will be fit for
the market.

SALSIFY. Sausiris ov Cerciris. Tragopogon
—— porrifolius. REE?

- This plant grows spontaneously in the open fields
in England, and is by some highly valued for its
white eatable root, and for the young shoots rising
in the spring from planis a yearold; these, when
gathered while green and tender, are good to boil
and eat in the manner of Asparagus. Some have
carried their fondness for this plant so far as to call
it Vegetable Oyster. They require the same kind
of soil and management as Carrots and Parsnips.

62 SCORZONARA. _

The seeds may be sown the latter end of March, or
early in April, an inch deepin drills twelve inches
apart. When the plants afe two or three inches
high, they should be thinned to the distance of six
inches from each other, and afterwards hoed. The
ground should be kept clean and loose round the
plants, by repeated hoeings; and in the autumn
they will be fit for use. The roots may be taken
up late in the fall, and secured in moist sand from.
the air; or be suffered to remain out, and dug up
when wanted. oe

The mode of cooking recommended by an Ame-
rican author is, “ to cut the roots transversely into
thin pieces; boil them in water, or milk and wa-
ter; when boiled soft, mash them and thicken the
whole with flour to some degree of stiffness ; then
fry them in the fat of salt pork or butter; they are
a luxury.” In England the tops are boiled, and
served up with poached eggs.

SCORZONARA. ScorsonérRe. WScorzonera

Mispanica.

This plant has long been raised in British gar-
dens for culinary purposes, and especially as an in-
eredient in soups, on account of its palatable and
nourishing ronts. Some boil and eat them like
Carrots, &c.; in which case, they should be de-
prived of their rind, and immersed in cold water for
half an hour, or they will be bitter. They are raised
precisely in the same manner as Salsify. If the
seed be sown in April, in a good deep soil, the roots
will attain perfection in autumn, and continue good
all the winter. ‘They last from three to four years,

a

' SEA-KALE. 63

according to the quality of the earth and care be-
stowed on them ; but it is better to raise a few from
seed every year. . .

SEA-KALE. Cuovu marin. Crambe maritima.

This plant is found on the sea shore in the south-
ern paits of England, where it grows spontaneous-
ly. As soon as it appears above ground, the inha-
bitants remove the pebbles or sand with which it is
usually covered to the depth of several inches, and
cut off the young and tender leaves and stalks, as
yet unexpanded, and in a blanched state, close to
the crown of the root ; it is then in its greatest per-
fection. When the leaves are full grown, they
become hard and bitter, and the plant is not eat-
able.

It is cultivated in private gardens, and for sale in
various parts of England. Cultivators have differ-
ed widely respecting the mode of treating this plant;
many conceiving that stones, gravel, and sea sand
are essential to its growth, have gone to the expense
of providing it: but it has been discovered that it
will grow much more luxuriantly in a rich sandy
loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great
depths

The seeds of Sea-Kale should be sown as soon as -
they areripe. If fresh seeds cannot be obtained by
the end of October, let them be sown as early in |
the Spring as the ground can be brought into good
condition, in drills an inch anda half deep, and
fourteen or sixteen inches asunder; the plants
should be afterwards thinned out to the distance of
six or eight inches from each other in the rows, and

64 | SEA-KALE.

kept clear of weeds by frequent hoeings throug:
the summer. When the plants are a year old, every
third row may be taken up, and also every other
plant in each row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen
inches apart ; these may be transplanted into good
ground prepared as directed for Asparagus. Plant
two rows in each bed, about eighteen inches apart ;
the best way is to make two drills thr ee inches deep,
and with a dibble set in the plants fifteen or sixteen
inches from each other; when these drills are fill-
ed, the crowns of the plants will be covered nearly
two inches, but they will soon push through the
earth. The plants left in the seed bed may form a
permanent bed, which should be forked or dug be-
tween the rows; previous to this being done, lay on
an inch or two of good rotten manure, and incor-
porate it with the earth around the plants. |

Some make new plantations with pieces of old
roots, which should be cut up in lengths of about
two inches, and planted in March or April, three or
four inches deep, at the distances before directed for
the plants.

Atthe approach of winter, the leaves will die
away and disappear. The beds should be then
thickly covered with dung, leaves or sea weed ; this
will not only protect the plants from frost, but will
cause them to shoot up early in the spring. As soon
as the frost is out of the ground, this may be taken
_ off, or if well rotted, it may be mixed up with the ©
earth; the crowns of the plants should then be co-
vered to the depth of ten or twelve inches for blanch-
ing.

Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand ; some,
common sand and gravel; and others with large
garden pots inverted, and placed immediately over.
the plants, If these pots be covered up with fresh

SEA-KALE. 65

horse dung, it will forward the shoots in growth,
and make them sweeter and more tender.

When your plants have been covered in either
method three or four weeks, examine them, and if
you find that the stalks have shot up three or four
inches, you may begin cutting ; should you wait
till all the shoots are of considerable length, your
crop will come in too much at once, for in this plant
there is not that successive growth which there: is
in Asparagus ; you may continue cutting until you
see the heads of flowers begin ‘o form ; and if at this
time you uncover it entirely, and let it proceed to
that state in which Broccoli is usually cut, and use
it assuch, you will find it an excellent substitute ;
and this greatly enhances the value of the plant;
as Broccoli does not stand our winter frost, and can
only be had when carefully protected, (as recom- |
mended under that head ;) but this plant is suffi-
ciently hardy to bear. our winter’s frost without
much injury. You are not to weaken the roots too
much by over cutting, for in that case it would in-
jure their next year’s bearing ; some of the shoots
should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper ve-
getation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great
care should be taken in cutting, not to injure the
crowns of the roots by cutting the shoots too close
to them. Sea-Kale should be dressed soon after it
is cut, as the goodness of the article greatly depends
on its not being long exposed to the air.

If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all
round a small bed, about three feet wide and thirty
inches deep ; fill it with hot dung, and as it sinks,
raise it. This will make the plants grow; and if
hand lights are set over them, it will accelerate their
growth.

66 SORREL AND SKIRRET.

SORREL. OsEILLE bDEs gaRDINs. Rumax
acetosa.

The seeds of the Broad Leaved English Sorrel,
and also of the Round Leaved or French Sorrel,
may be sown in April and May, in beds or borders,
and covered lightly. When the plants are up, keep
them free from weeds; they may be afterwards
thinned to the distance of nine inches from each
other, or transplanted into fresh ground.

The old standing roots of either kind may be se-
parated and planied for increase; this should be
done in April. As fast as the plants shoot up to
seed cut them down close, anda new crop of leaves
will be produced. It is used raw as a salad, or boil-

ed for greens.

SKIRRET. Cuervis, ov GyroLte. Sium sisa-
rum. .

This plant is cultivated first by seed, and after-
wards by offsets taken from the oid roots, and plan-
ted very early in the spring, and before they begin
to shoot, but it is best to raise a smal] bed from seed
every year, ‘as the roots grow longer than those rais-
ed from slips, and are less liable to be sticky. The
seed may be sown in drills the latter end of March,
or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify,
Parsnips, &c. In Autumn, when the leaves begin
to decay, the roots will be fit to use, and continue
so till they begin to shoot in the spring.

Skirrets should be planted in a light moist soil, for
in dry land the roots are generally small, unless the
season proves wet. The root of the Skirret is com-
posed of several fleshy tubers, as large as a man’s
finger, and joining together at top. They are eaten

SHALLOT AND SPINNAGE. | GN

boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper and salt, or
rolled in flour and fried, or else cold with oil au
vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the
taste and flavour of a Parsnip, but a great deal more
palatable.

SHALLOT. Ecuatore. Allium Asealonicum.

The true Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is
considered to possess the most agreeable flavour of
any-of the Allium genus. It is consequently high-
ly deserving of cultivation. They are propagated
by planting bulbs or offsets in the fall of the year ;
which may be set out with a dibble, in rows twelve
inches apart, by four to six inches distance in the
rows; or they may be placed in drills two or three
inches deep and covered up with a trowel or hoe.
The gardeners about New-York plant large quan-
tities of the bulbs early in September; by this means
they are enabled to supply the markets in April and
May with a Mild Allium which meets a ready sale.

After the tops die down, the bulbs must be taken
up, and the offsets divided: a portion of these
should be kept in a dry place to plant the ensuing
Autumn.

SPINACH on SPINNAGE. Epinarp. Spi-

% nacia.

VARIETIES. he Leaved, or Summer—Prickly
or Kall—New Zealand, or Tetragona expansa.

The Spinacia Oleracea, or common Spinach, is
very hardy, the seed of which should be sown in se-
i

68 Le SQUASH.

veral sowings from the first to the end of Septem-
ber; the forwardest of these, if covered up with
straw at the approach of cold weather, will furnish
greens forthe table when other vegetables are scarce,
and the latter crops will recover the eflects ofa hard
winter, and produce a wholesome vegetable early
in the spring. |

If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March
and April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut be-
fore the approach of hot weather, or it will run to
seed.

It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in
poor ground ; let the ground be well manured, with
good strong dung, and it will well reward you for
your trouble by its abundant produce.

The New Zealand Spinach is of iate introduction
into this country ; its nature seems to be opposite
io the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat
better than the cold. It may be obtained in the
summer, by planting the seeds in April and May.
Being of luxuriant growth, it should be planted in
hills three feet apart, and about two seeds in a hill. »
‘The leaves will be fit for use during the summer,
and until late in the fall.

SQUASH. Govurpe Grraumon ov PortirRon.
Cucurbita melopepa.

VarieTies.—Early Bush Summer—Summer Crook
Neck—Winter Crook Neck, or Bell Vegetable
Marrow.

The Early Bush Squashes are best for garden cul-
ture, and their produce is allowed to be equal in
quality to the running kinds. The Vegetable Mar-

TOMATO. 69

row is also well deserving of cultivation. The seeds
of these may be planted early in May, in hills four
or five feet apart, prepared as directed for Melons
and Cucumbers. The Running Squash may be
planted at the same time and in the same manner
as Pumpkins; and the management of these -va-
rious kinds of vines must be the same in every res-
pect as Cucumbers and Melons. It is always best
to put five or six seeds in a hill, as a guard against
accidents. When the plants are past danger they
can be thinned to two or there ina hill.

TOMATO. Tomate, ov Pomme p’amMourR.

Solanum Lycopersicum.

The Tomato, or Love Apple, is much cultivated
for its fruit in soups and sauces, to which it imparts
an agreeable acid flavour; and is also stewed and
dressed in various ways, and very much admired.

The seeds should be sown the early part of March,
ina slight hotbed, and the plants set out in the
open ground the first week in May. In private gar-
dens it will be necessary to plant themnear a fence,
or to provide trellices for them to be trained to, in
the manner recommended for Nasturtiums ; they
will however do very well if planted out four feet
distant from each other every way.

Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in
the summer, by sowing the seed in the open ground
ihe first week in May; these plants will be fit to
transplant early in June.

70 TURNIPS.

TURNIP. Naver. Brassica rapa.

[Those mared f, are best for family use.]

VaRIETIES.—Early White Dutch, f—Early Garden
Stone, f—White Flat or Globe—Green Round or
Green Top—Red Round, f. or Red Top—Swans
Egg, f—Large English Norfork—Long Tankard, °
or Hanover, f—Long Yellow French, ~-—Yellow
Maltese, f—Yellow Aberdeen— Yellow Stone, f-—
Yellow Swedish or Russia.

This is a valuable vegetable, and its culture gen-
erally very well understood. It being the last es-
culent vegetable on our catalogue, that is raised —
from seeds sold at our several seed stores, I shall
endeavour to stimulate those of our yeomanry who
have hitherto neglected the culture of this field, as
well as garden production, to exertion and dili-
gence, by inserting a few short extracts froma pa-
per that now lies before me. The following state-
ment relates to a country that contains only about
60 millions of acres, capable of cultivation, and
which supports upwards of 20 millions of human
beings, besides millions of brutes from the products
of its soil ; she also exports vast quantities of some
kinds of produce from this source.

* Culture of Turnips.—Until the beginning of
ihe eighteenth century, this valuable root was cul-
tivated only in gardens or other small spots for cul-
inary purposes ; but Lord Townsend, who attending
king George the first in one of his excursions to Ger-
many in the quality of Secretary of State, observed
the Turnip cultivated in open and extensive fields,
as fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility over
lands naturally barren, on his return to En-
gland, brought over some of the seed, and strong-
ly recommended the practice which he had witness-
ed, to the adoption of his own tenants, who occupied
a soil similar to that of Hanover. The experi-

TURNIPS. 71

ment succeeded ; the cultivation of Field Turnips
gradually spread over the whole county of Norfolk,
and has made its way into every other district of
England. The reputation of the county as an ag-
ricultural district, dates from the vast improve-
ments of heaths, wastes, sheep walks, and warrens,
by enclosing and manuring ; the fruits of the zeal-
ous exertions of Lord Townsend and a few neigh-
bouring land owners, which were ere long imitat-
ed by others. Since these improvements were ef-
fected, rents have risen in that county from one or
two shillings to twenty shillings an acre; a county
consisting chiefly of sheep walks and rabbit war-
rens has been rendered highly productive, and by
dint of management, what was thus gained, has
been preserved and improved even to the present
moment. Some of the finest corn crops in the
world are now growing upon land, which, before
the introduction of the Turnip husbandry, produc-
ed avery scanty supply of grass for a few lean and
half starved rabbits.

* Mr Colquhoun in his ‘Statistical researches’ es-
timated the value of the Turnip crop annually
growing in the united kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland at fourteen million pounds sterling, (equal
io upwards of SIXTY MILLIONS OF DOLLARS.) But
when we further recollect, that it enables the agri-
culturist to reclaim and cultivate land, which with-
out its aid, would remain ina hopeless state of nat-
ural barrenness, that it leaves the land clean and in
fine condition, and also to insure a good crop of
Barley and a kind plant of Clover, and that this
Clover is found a most excellent preparative for
Wheat, it will appear that the subsequent advant-
ages derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitely
exceed its estimated value as fodder for cattle. (Sir
William Scott in the Qu ‘rterly Review.”)

7%

72 _. TURNIPS.

As I have undertaken to “assist the Young Gar-
dener,” I shall proceed to point out the most. proper
means of cultivating this truly valuable vegetable
in his garden.

The preceding remarks show the kind of land
that may be made capable of producing not only
Turnips, but other things of equal value. It must
however be granted, that some soils naturally suit
particular kinds of vegetables better than others,
and that in general, exotic plants will succeed best
in such soils as are nearest like their own native
soil. As we have not always a choice, I would in-
form the Young Gardener, if he has a very light
soil which is not suitable for vegetables in general,
he may sometimes get two crops of Turnips from it
in one year, by sowing seed for the first crop early

in March, and that for nie second, in the middle of

August. For general cropsit will be better to have
ground manured with short rotten dung or compost
containing a considerable proportion of coal or soap-
ersashes. Ground that has been well manured for
preceeding crops, and old ground fresh broken up,
will suit well for Turnips.

‘The most esteemed kinds of Turnips for gardens,
are marked in the catalogue, I shall therefore leave
my readers to their own choice.

As the Yellow Swedish or Russian Turnip, or
Ruta Baga, requires different treatment, I shall
quote a few lines from the American Gardener, by
William Cobbett, the great advocate for Ruta
Baga.

©The Swedish Tur nip, so generally preferred
for table use here, and so seldom used for the table
in England, ought to be sown early in June, in rows
ata foot apart, and thinned to three inches in the
rows. About the middle of July they should be
transplanted upon ridges three feet apart (in a gar-

RUSSIAN TURNIP AND HOP. 13

den) and during their growth, ought to be kept
clear of weeds, and to be dug between twice at
least as deep asa good spade can be made to go.)
But the Swedish Turnip is of further use as pro-
ducing most excellent greens in the Spring, and at
a very early season. To draw this benefit from
them, the best way is to leave a row or two in the
ground, and when the winter is about to set in,
cover them all over with straw or ceder boughs.
Take these off when the winter breaks up, and you
will have very early and most excellent greens ;
and when you have done with the greens, the Tur-
nips are very good to eat.”

If the seed of the Russia Turnip be sown either
broadcast, or in drills early in July, they will make
fine roots by autumn without transplanting, pro-
vided the ground be good and well worked. When
the plants are up strong they must be hoed and
thinned to the distance of 12 or 15 inches —
each other, another hoeing will be necessary in 5
or 6 weeks afterwards. This will make them grow
freely.

HOP. Houston. Humulus lupulus.

Although the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, as
itis more or less used in every part of our country, it
may not beamiss to treat ofits culture. [tis presum-_
ed, that in proportion as habits of temperance are
inculcated, our citizens will have recourse to beer
as a wholesome beverage ; and as a great deal de-
pends on the manner in which Hops are cured, I
purpose giving directions for their management
throughout ; so as toenable those who choose, to
prepare their own. My information is collected
chiefly from Loudon’s Encyclopeedia of plants.

74 HOP.

The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an un-
known length of time for its flowers, which are us-
ed for preserving beer. Its culture was introduced
from Flanders in the reign of Henry the Eighth ;
though indigenous both in Scotland and Ireland it
is little cultivated in those countries, owing to the
humidity of their autumnal season. Like other
plants of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on dif-
ferent individuals ; the female plants, therefore,
are alone cultivated. There are several varieties
erown in Kent and Surrey, under the name of
Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings &c. ; the first is the
most hardy, differing little from the wild or Hedge
Hop ; the Goldings is a very improved highly pro-
ductive variety, but more subject to the blight than
the other. The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on
a dry bottom; a sheltered situation, but at the
same time not so confined as to prevent a free circu-
lation of air. The soil requires to be well pulver-
ized and manured previous to planting. In Hop
districts, the ground is generally trenched either
with a plough or spade. The mode of planting is
generally in rows six feet apart, and the same dis-
tance in the row. Five, six or seven plants are
generally placed together in a circular form and at
a distance of five or six feet from each other. The
plants or cuttings are procured from the most heal-
thy of the old stools; each should have two joints
or buds ; from the one which is placed in the ground
springs the root, and from the other the stalk.
Some plant the cuttings at once where they are to
remain, and by others they are nursed a year in a
garden. An interval crop of Beans or Cabbages is
generally taken the first year. Sometimes no poles
are placed at the plants till the second year, and
then only short ones of six or seven feet. The
third year the Hop generally comes into full bear-

HOP. "5

ing, and then from four to six poles from fourteen -
to sixteen feet in length are placed to each hill.
The most durable timber for poles is that of the
Spanish Chesnut, which is much grown in Kent as
coppice wood for that purpose.. The after culture
of the Hop consists in stirring the soil and keeping
it free from weeds; in guiding the shoots to the
poles, and sometimes tying them for that purpose
with bass or withered rushes; in eradicating any
superfluous shoots which may arise from the root,

and in raising a small heap of earth over the root | .

to nourish the plant. Hops are known to be ready
for gathering when the chaffy capsules acquire
a brown colour, and a firm consistence. Each
chaffy capsule or leafed calyx contains one seed.
Before these-are picked, the poles with the attach-
ed stalks are pulled up, and placed horizontally on
frames of wood two or three poles at atime. The
Hops are then picked off by women. and children.
After being carefully separated from the leaves and
stalks, they are dropped intoa large cloth hung all
round within the frame on tenter hooks. When
the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large
sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on
a kiln to be dried. This is always done as soon as
possible after they are picked, or they are apt to
sustain considerable damage, both in colour and
flavour, if allowed to remain long in the green state
in which they are picked. In very warm weather,
and when they are picked in a moist state, they
will often heat in five or six hours; for this reason
the kilns are kept constantly at work, both night
and day, from the commencement to the conclu-
sion of the Hop-picking season. The operation of
drying hops is not materially different from that of
drying malt, and the kilns are of the same con-
struction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth,

=

CONGR) 2

76 HOP.

‘

. from eight to twelve inches deep, according as the
season is dry or wet, and the Hops ripeor immature.
When the ends of the Hop staiks become quite
shrivelled and dry, they are taken off the kiln and
- laid on a boarded floor till they become quite cool,
when they are put into bags. 3

The bagging of Hops is thus performed: in the
floor of the room where Hops are laid to cool, there
isa round hole or trap equal in size to the mouth of
a Hop bag. After tying a handtul of Hopsin each
of the lower corners of a large bag, which serve
after for handles, the mouth of the bag 1s fixed se-
curely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest on
the hedges of the hole or trap; and the bag itself
being then dropped through the hole, the packers:
go into it, when a person who attends forthe pur-
pose, puts in the Hops in small quantities, in order
to give the packer an opportunity of packing and
trampling them as hard as possible. When the bag
is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard as that it
will hold no more, it isdrawn up, unloosed from the
hoop, and the end sewed up, other two handles
having been previously formed in the corners in
the manner mentioned above. The brightest and
finest coloured Hops are put into pockets or fine bag-
ging, and the brown into course or heavy bagging
The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale,
and the latter by the porter brewers. But when
Hops are intended to be kept two or three years,
they are put into bags of strong cloth and firmly
pressed soas to exclude the air. |

The stripping and stacking ofthe poles succeeds
to. the operation of picking. The shoots or bind
being stripped off, such poles as are not decayed
are set up together in aconical pile of three or four
hundred, the centre of which is formed by three

Sate a
Meee 5

HOP. vit |

stout poles bound together a few feet from their tops,
and their lower ends sprea:: out.

The produce of no crop is so liable to variation
as that of the Hop; ina good seasonan acre will
produce 20 cwt. but from 10 to 12 ewt. is consider-
eda tolerable average crop. The quality of Hops
is estimated by the abundance or scarcity of an
unctious clammy powder which adheres to them,
and by their bright yellow colour.. The expenses
of forming a Hop plantation are considerable ; but
once in bearing, it will cuntinue so for ten or fif-
teen years before it it requires to be renewed. The
Hop is peculiarly liable to diseases; when young
itis devoured by fleas of different kinds, at a more
advanced stage it is attacked by the green fly, red
spider, and ottermoth, the larvee of which prey
even uponitsroots. The honey dew often materi-
ally injures the Hop crop; andthe mould, the fire~
blast, and other blights injure it at different times
towards the latter period of the growth of the
plants.

The young shoots of both wild and cultivated
Hops are considered by some as very wholesome,
and are frequently gathered early in the Spring,
boiled, and eaten as asparagus. The stalk and
leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk a
strong clothis made in Sweden, the mode of pre-
paring which is described by Linneus in his Flora
Suecica. A decoction of the roots is said to be as
good a sudorific as Sarsaparilla ; and the smell of
the flowers is, soporific. A pillow filled with Hop
flowers will induce sleep, unattended with the bad
peer: of soporifics which require to be taken inter-
nally

78 HORSE-RADISH AND SWEET HERBS.

HORSE-RADISH. Rarrort. Cochlearia Armo-

racia.

This plant is _ propagated by cuttings from the
root, either cut from the top an inch or two long, or
some old roots cut into pieces of that length, or by
offsets that arise from the sides of the main root, re-
taining the crowns or top sheots in as many parts
as possible. These should be planted as early in
the spring as practicable, in rows two feet apart, and
six or elg.it inches from each other in the rows.
The ground should be well manured and dug two

“spades deep, and the cuttings should be sunk full
ten inches with the crowns upright ; this being done,
level the surtace of the ground, and afierwards keep
it free from weeds until the plants are full grown.

With this :senagement the roots will be long and
straight, and the second year after the planting will
be fit for use. They may be taken up the first year,
but then the roots will be slender, therefore it is the
better way to jet them remain till the second. If
in taking up ihe roots some offsets be left in the
ground, they will produce a successive supply for
many years.

ow aa

AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS.

Graines Pherbes 4 Pusage de la cuisne ou oderiférantes.

~ Anise, Pimpinella anisun.
Basil Sweet, ~ Ocymum basilicum.
Bush Basil, do. minimum.
Borage, . Borago officinalis.
Caraway, Carum carn.
Clary, ‘ Salvia sclara.
Coriander, Coriandrum sativum.
Dill, | Anethum graveolens.
*Fennel, Common, do. feniculum.

* do. Sweet, do. dulce.

AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. 7¢

Marigold, Pot, Calendula officinalis.
*Marjoram Sweet, Origanum marjorana:
*Mint, Spear, Mentha virides.

* ‘do. Pepper, piperita.

* do. Pennyroyal, pulegium.
*Sage, Common, Salvia officinalis. 5
Savory, Summer, Satureja horiensis.

* do. Winter, montana.
Smallage, Ipium graveolens.
*Tarragon, : Artemisia dracunculus.
*Thyme, Common, Thymus vulgaris.

* do. Lemon, serpyllum.

Aromatic Herbs are such as impart astrong spi-
ey odour and savoury taste; many of them are
used as small pot herbs, and for sauces, stuffings,
and other usesin cooking. As only a small quan-
tity of these are necessary in private gardens, a bye

‘corner may be allotted for them, and such medical
herbs as may be wanted in a family.

It may be necessary for me to explain, as we go
along, that there are three principal descriptive
names given to plants, namely, Annuals, Biennials,
and Perennials. The annuals being but of one sea-
sou’s duration, are raised every year from seed.
The biennial kinds are raised from-seed one year,
continue till the second, and soon after die ; some of
these should be also raised every year from seed.
The perennials may be also raised from seed, but
when once'raised, they will continue on the same
roots many years. ‘Those marked * are of the lat-
ter description, and may be propagated by suckers,

offsets, cuttings or partings of the roots.

Those who have not alreadya plantation of these
herbs, may sow seeds of any of the different kinds
in March or April, in drills about an inch deep and
twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. The plants

| 8

80 MEDICINAL HERBS.

may be afterwards transplanted into separate beds:
or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two feet apart,
the seed may be sown in them, and the plants after-
wards thinned out to proper distances according te
the natural growth of the different kinds of plants.

PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL
PURPOSES, &c.

Boneset or Thoroughwort Eupatorium perfoliatum.

*Balm, Melissa officinalis.
Bean, Castor Oil, Ricinus communis.
Burdock, Arctium lappa.
Catnep, Nepeta cataria.
Celandine, : Chelidonum majus.

* Chamomile, /nthemis nobilis.

* Comfrey, Symphytum officinale.
*EKlecampane, Inula Helenium.
Feverfew, Matricaria Parthenium.
* Horehound, Marubium vulgare.

* Horsemint, Monarda punctata.
*Hyssop, ~ Hysopus officinalis.

- *Lavender, Lavendula spica,
Lovage or Smellage, Ligusticum levisticum.
* Mallow, Marsh, Althea officinalis.

* Pink root, Carolina, Spigelia Marilandica.
Poppy Opium, (annual,) Papaver somniferum.
* Rosemary, Rosmarinus offiemalis.
*Rue, Garden, Ruta graveolens.
*Scullcap or Mad Dog

_ Plant, Scutellaia Lateriftora.
*Snake root, Virginian, ristolochia serpentaria.
*Southernwood, Artemisia abrotanum.
*Speedwell, Virginian, Veronica Virginica.
*Spikenard, Aralia racemosa.
*Tausey, Tanacetum vulgare.

*Wormwood, Artemisia absinthium.

MEDICINAL HERBS. §1

The generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medici-
nal Herbs, may be raised from seeds sown in March
and April. The greater part ofthe above describ-
ed plants are perennial, and will multiply from
seeds they drop, or from partings of the roots. The
offsets, roots, or young plants thus raised, should be
planted at suitable distances from each other early
in the spring. The beds should be afterwards kept
free from weeds, and as the herbs come into flower,
they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a
shady place to dry for winter use. [The best way to
preserve them after they are dried, is to rub them so
so as to pass them through asieve, then pack themin
bottles or boxes, each kind by itself; they should be
afterwards kept ina dry place.] In the month of
October, the beds should be examined. Lavender,
Rosemary, and other tender herbs should be taken
up, potted and placed ina frame or green house for
the winter. Thyme, Hyssop, Winter Savory,
Southernwood, Sage, Rue, and the like, will reyuire
their tops to be neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram,
Burnet, Tarragon, Tansey, Pennyroyal, Sorrel,
Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint, Lovage,
and other kinds of hardy perennial herbs, should
be cut down close to the ground. After this, it will
be proper to dig lightly and loosen the ground be-
tween the roots of the shrubby plants ; but the beds
of close-growing running plants, such as Mint,
Running Thyme and all other creeping herbs, will
not well admit of digging ; therefore, after the
stalks are cut down, and the beds cleared of weeds,
dig the alleys and strew some of the loose earth
evenly over the beds; andif the ground be rather
poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten dung will
be of considerable service.

This dressing will give proper nurture and pro-
fection to the roots of the plants, a neat appearance

$2 PLAN OF BEDS, &c.

to the whole, and in spring the shoots will rise with
renewed vigour.

Having finished the catalogue, I proceed to give
directions for making the most of a piece of ground
well manured for early crops. In the general di-
rections at the commencement, I observed that good
rich manure was indispensably necessary to the
production of some particular kinds of vegetables ;
it may be further observed, that rich ground will
produce two or three valuable crops, but it requires
some attention to make use of it to the best advan-
tage. If the gardener have leisure to dig his ground
in March or April, that he intends for Beans, Cu-
cumbers, Tomatoes, Egg Plants, or other tender
plants, he may raise Radishes, Spinach, Lettuce, or
other Salads on it, by leaving a space for his hills
or drills ; or radish seed may be sown lightly over
beds of Beets, Carrots or Parsnips, but they must
not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injure
the other plants. When the first crops are gather-
ed, it requires a little consideration before a second
is planted, in order that a sufficient quantity of the
best of the ground be reserved for the most particu-
lar and valuable kinds of vegetables. That I may
be understood, I have adopted the following plans, |
representing beds of earth, this will answer the same
purpose as bringing my readers on the ground:

No. 1. The following lines represent drills six
inches apart:

=

March 25.—Sow Parsley, or other small herbs.

< Do. Radish Seed.

Do. Parsley, or other small herbs.

PLAN OF BEDS, &c. 83

The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves
the intermediate ground for the other plants.

No. 2. Drills 10 or 12 inches apart :

April 1.—Sow Spinach or Radish Seed.

24.—Plant early Cabbage Plants.

1.—Sow Spinach or Radish Seeds.

By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of
the ground, the Spinach or Radishes may be gath-
ered. :
If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the
middle of July, it may be planted with Celery,
Turnips, or Black Radishes. If the Cabbages be
of the late kinds, the ground may be reserved for
the first sowing of Spinach, Fetticus, Lettuce, &c.
in which case it will require a fresh coat of ma-
nure.
————————

No. 3. Rows or drills 14 inches apart:

March 20.—Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants,

Do. ——_—Hardy Lettuce Plants.

Hoe them the first week in April—previous
to hoeing the second time, draw a drill between
each row of plants, and plant beet or carrot seed ;

8*

84 PLAN OF BEDS, &c.

this may be covered up in hveing the Lettuce, and

by the time the plants are up as the vate
will be fit to cut. >

If these roots are well attended to, they may be
cleared off soon enough to produce fall Cabbage,
Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c.

a

No. 4. Rows or drills 16 inches apart :

March 25.—Plant Hardy Lettuce Piants.

Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants.

April 20.—Plant early York Cabbage Plants.
either between the rows or between the Lettuce.

ee ee

As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage
and it will soon cover the ground.

This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of
the kinds above mentioned, except Cabbage, the
roots of which are apt to get defective, if the same
ground be planted with Cabbage twice in succes-
sion.

The above, or preceding plans, present a fair spe-
cimen of what may be done on a small piece of good
eround. If the young gardener will take the trou-
ble to keep an account of his transactions, he would
soon make discoveries of still greater importance.
If he be not sufficiently acquainted with the differ-
ent kinds of Cabbage Plants, for instance, so as to
distinguish one from the other, he, by makinga
memorandum at the time of sowing the seed, would
goon get acquainted with the different kinds of
plants ; he would also discover the difference in the
srowing of his seeds, and know who to blame if any
particular kind should not come up.

HOT BEDS- 85

The following represents a hot bed with four sash-
es, sown March Ist.

Thorburn’s Smith’s Early; Russell’s | Bridgeman’s
| Tomato and

Early York Battersea Cab- Early Egg-Plant

seeds in_ shal-

Cabbage seed. | age seed, | Lettuce seed. ee

It may be necessary to remind my readers of the
necessity of being always prepared to sow Cab-
bage, Egg-Plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seeds in
hot beds the last week in February or early in
March ; for this purpose, let some fresh stable dung
and rich compost be engaged beforehand. Some
gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but
it is always safest to make a pit from eighteen
inches to.two feet deep; in order todo this, a heap
of dung should be deposited on the ground intend-
ed for the beds before the frost sets in; by this
means the ground will be preserved from frost, and
good earth may be obtained from the pits without
any difficulty.

The fresh dung should be spread regularly in the
pits to the depth of twenty to twenty four inches;
as soon as the dung begins to heat, cover it with
six or eight inches deep of mould ; then lay on the
sashes, and protect the beds from the inclemency
of the weather. In two or three days the rank
steam may pass off ; it will then be necessary to stir

86 FORCING VEGATABLES.

the mouid before the seeds be sown, to prevent the
growth of young weeds that may be germinating ;
then sow the seeds as equally as posible, reserving
a small quantity of the warm mould to be sown or
sifted over the seeds. The beds should be after-
wards attended to as directed for Broccoli and Cau-
liflower. This description of a hot bed is intended
expressly for the raising of spring Cabbage, Let-
tuce, Tomatoes, and such other plants as may be
required for early planting. Beds made earlier in
the season, or for forcing, will require a greater
substance of manure.

OBSERVATIONS ON FORCING VEGETA-
BLES.

Before I commenced preparing this edition for the
press, I intended to have written largely on the sub-
ject of forcing fruits, as well as vegetables ; but
when I considered my motto, and that I was writ-.
ing for young gardeners, I concluded to occupy my
pages in sucha manner as to effect the greatest
possible good, at the smallest expense. Of the se-
veral branches of Horticulture, some are of greater
-importance than others ; and as the products of the
kitchen garden form important articles of food for
the bulk of mankind, it should be our first care to
treat largely on the subject of this most useful part
of gardening. Next to this, is the cultivation of
fruits, and the production of ornamental plants and
flowers, each of which will be noticed as we pro-
ceed. As I stand pledged to offer some remarks on
forcing, or rather forwarding vegetables by artificial
means, I shall endeavor to confine my observations
to such points as are of primary importance ; and

FORCING VEGETABLES. 87

in order to convince my readers of the importance
of my subject, I shall first endeavor to show the
utility of an artificial climate suited to the various
kinds of useful plants. In England, a regular suc-
cession of vegetables can be obtained from the na-
tural ground in every month of the year, and their
fruits, from the summer heat being moderate, are of
longer continuance than with us, and yet they make
gardening a science, and employ the elements, as
well as the ingenuity of man, to the production of
fruits and vegetables out of the ordinary season.

I shall not attempt to treat of the cultivation of
Pine-Apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grown
in forcing houses, nor would it be advisable with
us to undertake toraise Cucumbers, Melons, &c. in
frames throughout our severe winters ; butit must
be acknowledged, that the extreme heat of our
summers are as detrimental to the cultivation of
some of the most valuable kinds of fruits and vege-
tables, as the coldness of our winters, and for those
reasons, artificial aid is more necessary here in the
winter andspring of the year than inEngland. The
inhabitants of that country may obtain a supply of
the different varieties of Artichokes, Bioad Beans,
Borecole, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kale, Lettuce, Ra-
dishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Turnips, and Salads in
general a great part of the year, and. Cabbages,
Coleworts, &c. the whole of the year, from their
kitchen gardens, whereas, if we were to attempt to -
supply our markets with culinary vegetables at ali
times, in any thing like the abundance that they
have them there, we must turn our attention to the
protecting and forwarding, as well as the forcing
system. |

Before I proceed to show the method of forcing
vegetables, it may be necessary for me to remind
my readers, that in providing an artificial climate,

S8 FORCING VEGETABLES.

they should consider the nature of the plants they
intend to cultivate, and endeavour to supply them
with that which is best calculated to nourish and
support them. I have, in another part of this work,
endeavoured to show, that heat, light, air, and
moisture, are each essential to vegetation, and that
these should be supplied in a judicious manner, ac-
cording to circumstances.

In the midst of our winters, which is the usual
time for forcing in England, we are subject to.
north-west winds, which produce extreme freezing.
Now, as we have not yet discovered how to make
an artificial air, it will not be safe for the gardener
to raise a bottom heat under any kind of vegetable,
until such time as he can impart a tolerable share of
salubrious air, as the heat without air will soon de-
stroy the fruits of his labour. Perhaps the safest
time to commence forcing in frames, is soon after
the middle of February, and the early part of March,
I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials
must be regulated by the season of the year at
which the work is commenced, and also to the pur-
poses for which the hot beds are intended. Beds
made for the purpose of raising half-hardy plants,
or for procuring seedling plants late in the spring,
may be made in the manner recommended for the
common hot bed; but if substantial heat is required
to be kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to
admit of linings as the heat decreases; and the
dung should undergo a regular procsss of prepara-
tion, according to the use it is intended for. Com-
post heaps should also be provided, in order to fur-
nish suitable mould to the different kinds of plants;
for this purpose, all the old hot bed dung and mould,
leaves, tan, turf, sand and other light manures and
decayed animal dung, should be collected together,

FORCING VEGETABLES. 89

In some cases when a slight hot bed is recom-
mended for forwarding hardy plants, if it should
happen that a seedling cucumber bed be at liber-
ty, it may answer every purpose for Radishes, Let-
tuce, or other hardy plants; or such a bed may be
spawned for Mushrooms if required.

If the forcing be commenced before the coldest
of the winter is past, great precaution must be us-
ed lest the plants should be injured by cold cutting
winds, or cestroyed by heat for want of air. To
prevent the former accident, warm dung should be
placed arround the frames, and the sashes should be
covered with mats and boards every night. If full
aiz cannot be admitted in the day time, the sashes
must be slidden down to let off the steam, at the
same time the mats may be laid over the aperture,
to prevent the cold air entering to the plants.

If the bottom heat in a bed be too viclent which
is sometimes the case, means must be used to de-
crease it. This is generally effected by making holes
in the bed with a stake sharpened at the end, or
with a crow-bar; which holes should be filled up
when the heat is sufficiently reduced. In lining
hot beds if the heat is reduced in the body of the
beds, holes may be carefully made to admit heat
from the fresh linings, so as to enliven the heat of
the bed.

A Fahrenheit Thermometer should be always at
hand, at the time of forcing, to be used when ne-
cessary, to regulate the heat in the beds; and the
water that is used in cultivating plants in frames,
should be warmed to the temperature of the air, or
according to the heat required for the various kinds
of plants, which will be shown in the different arti-
cles, as we proceed.

90 FORCING VEGETABLES.

FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT BEDS.

As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender

by extreme bottom neat, it is forced with greater
success, and with less trouble in flued pits, in a hot
house than in dung hot beds, because the heat from.
tan is More regular; but a very suitable bed may
be formed ina deep hot bed frame, made in the
usual way. If dungalone ora mixture of dung and
leaves be used, it should be in a state past heating
violently before it is made into a bed; but if the
gardener has no choice of materials, he may make
dis hot bed in the usual way, and it the depth of
heating materials be two feet, he may lay on a foot
of old hot bed dung, tan or any lighi compost, that
will admit of the heat passing through it. It may
be necessary to state further, that though too much
bottom heat should be avoided ; heat is necessary
to the production of the vegetable in a moderate
time, which is generally effecied in a month or six
weeks after the commencement of the operations.

For the purpose of keeping up a regular heat, a lin-
ing of hot dung should be applied around the frame,
and changed as occasion requires. Provide plants
from two to four, or even six years old, trim their
roots, and place them in rows on the beds; when

one row is laid, strew a little mould among the roots,

then proceed in the same way with one row after
another, keeping them on a level, as the surface of
the bed at first lay, til you have finished planting
them; then lay among the buds and roots some fine
vegetable, or other rich mouid, working it in
amongst them with your fingers, and cover the beds
over about one inch thick, and above that lay three

inches in depth of vegetable mould not very rotten,

old tan, orany other light compost that will admit the

water torun quickly through. — If there be a strong

heat in the bed, slide down the sashes till it begins

FORCING VEGETABLES. 91

to decline. The temperature at night should never
be under 50, and it may rise to 65 without injury ;
as the buds begin to appear, as much air must be
daily adinitted as the weather will permit. In two
or three days after the beds are planted, the heat
will begin to rise; the beds should then have a mod-
erate supply of water applied from a watering pot,
with the rose on, repeat such waterings every three
or four days. By the time the buds have come up
three inches above the surface, they are fit to gath-
er for use, as they will then be six or seven inches
in length. - In gathering them, draw aside a little
of the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, twist
them off from the crown ; this is a better method
than to cut them; at least ‘it is less dangerous to the
rising buds, which come up thick in succession.—
An ordinary sized frame calculated for three sashes
will hold from three-hundred to five hundred plants
according to the age and size, and will if properly
managed yield a dish every day for about three
weeks. On the above estimate if a constant. suc-
cession of Asparagus be required, it will be necessa-
ry to plant a bed every erghteen or twenty days.

Rhubarb and Sea Kale, may be, and sometimes
are forced in the same manner as Asparagus; but
the most general mode is to excite them where they
stand in the open garden, by the application of warm
dung, as directed in the articles page 60 and 65.
Or roots of Rhubarb may be taken up in autumn
and packed in sand deposited in a warm cellar ;

and they will produce stalks fit for use in the spring,

and if packed in boxes placed in a moderate hot bed
in March, they will yield abundantly.

9

92 FORWARDING AND FORCING VEGETABLES.
FORWARDING BROAD BEANS, OR (ENGLISH DWARFS.) ,

In the article, broad Bean, vicia faba, page 20,
I have urged the necessity of early planting, in or-
_ der that a full crop may be insured before the ap-
proach of warm weather ; but as the ground is of-
ten frozen ‘at the time that they ought to be plan-
ted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes
and placed in a moderate hot bed in February, or
early in March; If the plants thus raised be not
nursed too tender, they may be transplanted into
the open ground the latter end of March; this will
enable them to produce their fruit early in June.
Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece
of ground late in the autumn, it will keep the earth
from freezing, and if this manuie be removed in
February, and a frame placed over and protected
from extreme cold, the seedlings may be raised
therein; and transplanted as before directed.

FORCING KIDNEY BEANS.

The most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may
be raised in hot beds; but they require a substan-
tial heat tomature them. The temperature with-
in the frame should be kept up to 60, and may -
rise to 70 or 75°, provided the steam is let off.
In order to insure sufficient heat to bring them
into a bearing state, the plants may be first rais-
ed in small pots plunged into a hot bed, or, a
small bed may be prepared earthed over with
light rich compost six inches deep; and the
beans planted therein and covered one inch. The
second hot bed should be earthed over to the
depth of eight or nine inches ; and the beans trans-
planted as soon as they are two or three inches ”

/

FORWARDING VEGETABLES. 93

high, in cross rows twelve or fifteen inches apart by
three or four inches in the rows, or in clumps a
foot apart. When the season is so far advanced
that one bed with the help of linings will bring the
plants well into fruit, the seed may be planted at
once to remain for podding ; ; or if the gardene
should choose tomature his crop in the open ground —
he may raise his plants in boxes or potsin the month —
of April, and plant them out in a warm border early
in May. Beans raised in hot beds, will require
considerable attention ;—cover the glasses every
night with matsand boards; admit fresh air every
mild day, give occasional gentle waterings, and
earth them up carefully as they progress in growth,

to strenghten them.

FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER.

In treating of the method of cultivating this fami- -
ly of plants, in the articles, page 26 and 29, I re-
commended that an artificial climate be provided
for them, so as to induce them to arrive at full per-
fection in the winter and early part of the spring.
Such’ gardeners as may have provided frames for
the purpose of making hot beds in the spring, may
make use of them through the winter, in protect-
ing Broccoli and Cauliflower ; and as the frames
will not be wanted until the severity of the winter
is past, such plants as may be left at that season,
may be protected by a covering of boards, straw, or
litter, as occasion may require.

If Cauliflower be required early in the summer,
the plants raised in the preceding autumn should
be transplanted from the beds into the open ground
in the month of March, and be protected by hand

94 FORCING VEGETABLES.

glasses. This would insure their heading before
the approach of extreme warm weather, which is very
injurious to Cauliflower.

FORCING AND FORWARDING CUCUMBERS.

To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should
be an object of emulation with every gardener.
The business of forcing them should commence
about eight or ten weeks before the fruit is desired,
and a succession of plants should be raised to pro-
vide for accidents. Some choose the short prickly,
others, the green cluster and southgate ; and seed
that is two or three years old, is generally preferred,
as itis not so apt to run to vines. The seed is ge-
nerally sown in pots or boxes of light rich mould,
and placed in a hot bed; and some sow the seeds
in the earth of a small bed prepared for the purpose.
In either case, as soon as the plants have fully ex-
panded their two seed leaves, they may be trans-
planted into pots; put three plants in each pot ;
when this is done, apply water warmed to the heat
of the bed, and shut down the glasses, keeping them
a little shaded by throwing a mat over the glass,
till the plants have taken root. When they are
about a month old, they will be fit to transplant in-
to the fruiting bed. 3

Well preparing the dung, is of the greatest im-
portance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done
before it is made into a bed, it cannot be done after,
as it requires turning and managing to cause it to
ferment freely and sweetly. Fresh dung from the
stable should be laid into a heap, turned three times,
and well mixed with a fork ; if any appears dry, it
should be made wet, always keeping it between the

FORCING VEGETABLES. 95

iwo extremes of wet and dry, that the whole may
have aregular fermentation. A dry situation should
be chosen for the beds to be formed on, so that no
water can settle under the dung. The substance
of dung from the bottom of the bed should be from
three to four feet, according to the season of plant-
ing, and the moulding should be done as soon as
the bed is settled, and has a lively regular tempered
heat. Lay the earth evenly over the dung, about

six inches deep; after it has laina few days, exa-

mine it, and if no traces of a burning effect are dis-

covered, by the mould turning of a whitish colour,

and caking, it will be fit to receive the plants ; but
if the earth appears burnt, or of a rank smell, some
_fresh sweet mould should be provided for the hills,
and placed in the frame to get warm, at the same
time, vacancies should be made to give vent to the
steam, by running down stakes. After the situa-
tion of the bed has been ascertained, and the heat
-regulated, the holes should be closed, and the earth
formed into hills; raise one hill in the centre under
each sash, so that the earth is brought to within
nine inches of the glass ; in these hills, plant three
seedlings, or turn out such as may be in pots, with
the balls of earth about their roots, and thus insert
one patch of three plants in the middle of each hill.

The plants should be immedfately watered with

water heated to the air of the bed, and kept shaded

till they have taken root.

The temperature should be kept up to 60°, and
may rise to 80° without injury, providing the rank
steam be allowed to pass off; therefore, as the heat
begins to decline, timely lmings of well prepared
dung must be applied all round the frame ; begin by
lining the back part first; cut away the old dung
perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank two
feet broad, to the height of a foot, against the back

9#

96 FORCING VEGETABLES.

of the frames; as it sinks, add more; renew the
linings around the remainder of the bed as it be-
comes necessary, and be careful to let off the steam
and give air to the plants at all opportunities. Give
necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of a mild
day, in early forcing ; and in the afternoon in the
advanced season of hot sunny weather. Some use
water impregnated with sheep or pigeons’ dung. As
the roots begin to spread, and the vines to run, the
hills should be enlarged, by gathering up the earth
around them, and a supply of good mould should
be furnished to gather up as required, for earthing
around the plants.

When the plants have made one or two joints,
stop them, after which they generally put forth two
shoots, each of which let run till they have made
one or two clear joints, and then stop them; and
afterwards continue throughout the season to stop
them at every joint; this will strengthen the
plants, and promote their perfecting the fruit early.

The following artificial operation is recommend-
ed by Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as
essential to the production of a full crop of cucum-
bers under glass. In plants mure freely exposed to

the open air, the impregnation is effected by nature.
Those which some call false blossonis, are the male
flowers, and are useful in this operation.

“ The Cucumber” Abercrombie observes, “ bears
male and female blossoms distinctly on the same
plant. The latter only produce the fruit, which
appears first in miniature, close under the base, even
before the flower expands. There is never any in
the males ; but these are placed in the vicinity of
the females, and are absolutely necessary, by the
dispersion of their farina, to impregnate the female
blossom ; the fruit of which will not otherwise
swell to its full size, and the seeds will be abortive.

FORWARDING VEGETABLES. _ 97

The early plants under glass, not having the full
current of natural air, nor the assitance of bees and
other winged insects to convey the farina, the arti-
ficial aid of the cultivator is necessary to effect the
impregnation. At the time of fructification, watch
the plants daily ; and as soon as the female flower
and some male blossoms are fully expanded, pro-
ceed to set the fruit the same day, or next morning
at farthest. Take offa male blossom ; detaching
it with part of the footstalk. Hold this between
the finger and thumb; pull away the flower leaf
close to the stamens and anthere or central part,
which apply close to the stigma or bosom of the
female flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge
thereon some particles of the fertilizing pow-
der. Proceed thus to set every fruit, as the flow-
ers of both sorts open, while ofa lively full ex-
pansion ; and generally perform it in the early
part of the day, using a fresh male, if possible,
for each impregnation, as the males are usually
more abundant than the female biossoms. In
consequence the young fruit will soon be ob-
served to swell freely. Cucumbers attain the pro-
per size for gathering in about fifteen, eighteen, or
twenty days after the time of setting ; and often in
- succession for two or three months or more, in the
same beds, by good culture.”

FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND GLASSES. }

Ifitbe desired to have Cucumbers in the open
garden at an early season, the plants may be rais-
ed in pots as before directed, and planted in a
warm border either in the earth, or in hot bed
ridges. A hand glass should be provided for each
hill, which should be kept close down every night,

98 FORWARDING VEGETABLES.

and in cool days, taking care to admit air when
practicable. The plants may be. hardened by de-
grees by taking off the glass in the heat of the day,
and as the weather gets warm they may be left to
nature,

FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND GLASSES.

Although our citizens have an opportunity of
procuring the Melon, without artificial aid, as
their continuance is short, it may not be amiss to
remind the gardener that ‘the directions above giv-
en for maturing Cucumbers under glass will apply
to melons, with very few exceptions ; care however
must be taken that they be kept away from each
other at the time of fruiting, as instances often occur
of whole crops being entirely ruined, by plants of
the same genus being raised too near each other.
Those who may wish to forward Melons may pre-
pare a hot bed in March or April, to raise plants in ;
the bed may be formed and the plants managed in
precisely the same manner as is directed for cucum-
bers. If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand
glass applied to each hill, Melons may be obtained
one month earlier than the usual time. Garden-
ers raising Melons for the supply of city markets may
gratify the public, by pursuing the forwarding, if not
the forcing system. Ridges may be prepared in the
following manner. In April or “May, a trench may

be dugin a warm border about two feet deep and.

three wide, and ofsufficient length foras many hand
glasses as are intended to be employed, allowing
three feet for every hill. Some good heating ma-
nure should be laid in the pits, managed the same
as a common hot bed; to this must be. added

Ta ila OF a ee = -

FORCING VEGETABLES. f 99

good rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches
for the plants to grow in; as soon as the mould is
warm the seedlings may be planted three plants in
each -hill, after which the hand glasses should be
set on and shaded. After the piants have taken.
root and began to grow, the glasses should be rais-
ed in fine days and propped up so as to admit fresh
air, andas the warm weather progresses, they may
be taken off in the middle of fine days, so as to har-
den the plants gradually to the weather ; and by
the latter end of May they may be left to nature.
Melons or Cucumbers may be perpetuated from
layers or cuttings of the early plants, if required.

——__—_——.

FORCING PEAS IN HOT BEDS.

The best sort of Peas to force, are the most dwar-
fish kinds, and the seed is better for being two or
three years years old, as they will bear earlier and
make less straw. ‘The true early frame Pea, is
generally preferred, but Bishop’s new early Pea is
very dwarfish and prolific, and therefore suitable for
forcing. Peas become more prolific and run less te
vine by being transplanted, than when they are
sown where they are to remain; the plants may be
raised in a gentle hot bed, either in the earth of the
bed, or in pots or boxes. Peas do not require ex-
cessive heat ; the temperature must be progressive ;
beginning at about 50° for the nursery bed, and
from that to 60 or 65 for fruiting. When the leaves
of the plants are fairly expanded they may be trans-
planted in rows from twelve to eighteen inches
apart; observe the earth in the fruiting bed should
be from twelve to eighteen inchesin depth. As
the Peas progress in growth the earth should be

100 FORCING VEGETABLES.

stirred, and when six inches high, small sticks may
be applied so that the tendriis of the Peas may easi-
ly take hold; and they should be moulded at the
bottom to enable them to support themselves. When
they appear in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly
promotes the forming and filling of the pods; they
will require to be regularly watered, and as the
spring advances they 1 may be exposed to the weath-
er, taking care to shelter them in the event of a sud-
den change.

FORCING POTATOES IN HOT BEBS.

Potatoes may be forced in a great variety of ways.
Those who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames,
will of course provide such of the earliest kinds as
are not inclined to produce large tops, the Brough-
ton dwarf, early mule, and the oak, and the ash
leaved, are of this description. Potatoes may be
forwarded in growth previous to their being planted
in the beds by placing them in a warm damp cellar.
Some forward them in pots or boxes, and after-
wards mature them in a hot bed ; others plant them
in the bed at once, in which case the bed should be
moulded from fifteen to twenty inciies deep, and
the heating materials should be sufficient to keep
up a moderate heat for two or three months. Per- —
haps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in
this climate is to provide pots for the purpose ; plant
one set in each pot in January, set them in a warm
cellar till a bed can be prepared in February, in this
set inthe pots. While the tuberous roots are form-
ing and before they fill the pots, prepare the beds .
for maturing them, and then bury them in the
mould with the balls of earth attached to them.

FORWARDING VEGETABLES. 10]

The beds shouid be kept free from frost, and air
should be given at every opportunity. The com-
mon round Potato may be forwarded, by laying
them thick together in a slight hot bed in March,
and when they are planted in the borders, a quan-
tity of comb-makers’ shavings may be deposited in
each hill, this will greatly promote their growth.
For forwarding Sweet Potatoes, see the article
page 56. |

FORWARDING RADISHES, &c,

Radishes may be obtained early in the spring by
means of a moderate hot bed. The earth in the
frame should be a footin depth, and air should be
admitted every day after they are up, or they will
incline more to tops than roots. If they come up
too thick, they should be thinned to between one
and two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as
occasion requires, and keep rise well covered in
cold nights. For raising early Radishes on ground
not accommodated w ith, frames; a hot bed may be
made and arched ov er with hoop bends or pliant
rods, which should be covered with mats constantly
at night, and during the day in very cold weather.
In moderate days, turn up the mats at the warmest
side; and ona fine mild day, take them wholly off,
and harden them gradually to the weather. Tur-
nips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of Salads, or pot
Herbs may be raised in the same way by sowing the
seed in drills, and keeping the ground ay of
weeds.

The following simple method of forcing
bles on a small. scale, is recommended by a
pondent of the London Magazine for June,

ay
i By Py

102 FORCING VEGETABLES.

* Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very sim-~
ple though not a new process. Provide boxes three
feet long, and one foot eight inches deep ; a quan-
tity of horse droppings, perfectly dry ; some spawn
anc some light dry soil. Fill the boxes by layers
of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must be trod-
den perfectly tight; repeat these triple layers till
the boxes are full, and all tredden firmly together.

* Four such boxes at work, are sufficient for a mo-
derate demand ; and of a dozen, four brought on at
‘atime, and pliced upon the flue of a greenhouse
stove, will produce a fine supply. The surface of
these portable beds may be covered with a little
hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, watered.
[t ts not absolutely necéssary that they be set on
the flue of a hot house: the kitchen cupboard, or any
other similar place, will suit eyually well. This
plan is also convenient for affording a plentiful
stock of superior spawn.

“The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus;
but for this purpose a sufficient stock of three year
old plants must be at hand; also eighteen boxes,
four of which are the necessary set to be forced at
one time fora middling family. Half fill the boxes
with decayed tanners’ bark, leaf mouid, or any other
similar mould; on this, pack in the roots as thickly
as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c.
Any place ina forcing house will suit them; on
the flue under the stage, or in short, any place
where they can enjoy the necessary degree of heat.
Besides Asparagus and Mushrooms, Sea Kale, Rhu-
barb, Buda Kale, Angelica, Small Salad, as also
other pot herbs, may be raised in the same man-
ner,”

Those who have not the conveniences recom-
mended in a greenhouse, &c., may place the boxes
in ahotbed. The glasses being laid on and ihe

MUSHROOMS. 103

beds covered at nights, will soon promote the growth
of the plants, and produce vegetable luxuries at a
season When garden products in general are com-
paratively scarce.

It is unnecessary to show of how much value such
processes may be in minor establishments, or in a
young country. I wish it to be understood, that in
order to the successful cultivation of some of the
rare vegetables I have treated of, great pains must
be taken in every stage of their growth. Ifthe ad-
vice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself we
shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxu-
ries of the garden. My directions are founded on
the success attending the practice of some of the
best gardeners in this country. I have had also
sufficient experience to warrant me in this attempt
to contribute my mite towards the “attainment of
this kind of useful knowledge.”

MUSHROOM. CuampicNon coMEsTIBLE. ga-

ricus campestris.

The Agaricus is said to be the most extensive
genus in the vegetable kingdom. The species are
determined upon various principles. As some of
the kinds are poisonous, it is necessary to describe
the eatable Mushroom. Loudon says, it is most
readily distinguished when of a middle size, by its
fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell.
In a more advanced stage, the gills become of a cho-
colute colour, and it is then more apt to be con-
founded with other kinds of a dubious quality ; but
that species which most nearly resemblesit, is slimy
to the touch, and destitute of the fine odour, having
rather a disagreeable smell. Again: the noxious

10

104 MUSHROOMS.

kind grows in woods, or on the skirts of woods,
while the true Mushroom springs up chiefly in open
pastures, and should be gathered oniy in such
places. Unwholesome fungi will sometimes spring
up on artificial beds in gardens; thus, when the
spawn begins to run, a spurious breed are often
found to precede a crop of genuine mushrooms.
The baneful quality of the toad-stool, 4garicus viro-
sus, is, in general, indicated by a sickiy nauseous
smell, though some hurtful sorts are so far without
any thing disagreeable in the smell, as tomake any
criterion, drawn from that aione, very unsafe. The
wholesome kinds, however, invariably emit a grate-
ful rich scent. The Agaricus campestris is most
generally cultivated. Dr. Withering mentions
other eatable varieties, which run considerably larg-
er, but which are inferior in flavour ; he says, “ that
a plant of the variety Georgia, was gathered in an
old hot bed at Birmingham, which weighed fourteen
pounds, and Mr. Stackhouse found one fifty-four
inches in circumference, having a stem as thick as
a man’s wrist.” Mushrooms may be obtained at
any season of the year, by a proper regulation of the
_ time and manner of forming the beds. A good
crop is sometimes collected without making a bed
on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn into the
top mould in old hot beds.

The methods of procuring and pr opancuae spawn
and of forming Mushroom beds are numerous. In-
digenous spawn may be collected tn pasture lands
in September and October, or it may be found in its
strength and purity in the paths of mills worked by
horses, or in any other horse-walks under shelter ;
it is frequently to be found in old hot beds and dung-
hills, in the summer season, and mushrooms of
good quality may often be seen beginning to form
themselves on the surface, like large peas; when

MUSHROOMS. 105

these are observed, it is time to take out the spawn,
which is genera'ly in hard dry lumps of dung,
the spawn having the appearance of whitish coarse
pieces of thread. The true sort has exactly the
smell of a Mushroom. If spawn thus collected be
required for immediate use, it may be planted in
the beds at once, or it will keep three or four years,
if laid to dry with the earth adhering to it, and after-
wards placed in a warm dry shed, where there isa
current of air; but if it be not completely dried, the
spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not bear
the extremes of het, cold, or moisture.

Such of my readers as may have hitherto been
unacquainted with the cultivation of the Mushroom,
must perceive, from the preceding remarks, that a
Mushroom bed is simply a heap of animal dung and
earth, so tempered as to be capable of producing and
preserving spawn ; but in order to have fruitful
spawn at all times, it should be so formed as to be
always atcommand. Tv this end, a quantity of
fresh horse droppings mixed with short litter, should
be collected ; add tothis one third of cow dung,
and a small portion of earth, to cement it together ;
mash the whole into a thin compost, like grafting
clay ; then form it in the shape of bricks, which
being done, set them on edge, and frequently turn
them until half dry; then with a dibble make
one or two holes in each brick, and insert in each
hole a piece of spawn the size of an egg; the
bricks should then be laid where they can dry gra-
dually. When dry, lay dry horse dung on a level
floor, six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile the
bricks the spawn side uppermost. When the pile
is snugly formed, cover it with a small portion of
warm fresh horse-dung, sufficient in quantity toe
diffuse a gentle glow throughout the whole. When
the spawn has spread itself through every part of

106 MUSHROOMS.

the bricks, the process is ended, and they may be
laid up into any dry place for use. Mushroom
spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve
its vegetable powers for many years, if well dried
before it is laid up: if moist, it will grow, and soon
exhaust itself.

Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the
open air, covered with litter and mats, so as to pre-
vent heavy rains exciting a fermentation; and
sometimes in ridges of the same sort under cover, as
in the open sheds of hot houses. They are also
made in close sheds behind hot houses, or in houses
built on purpose, called Mushroom houses. A
moderately warm light cellar is peculiarly suited for
the purpose in the winter season, as no fire is neces-
sary, and but little water, the application of which
so frequently proves injurious, when not judiciously
managed. Mushrooms may be also raised in pots;
boxes, hampers, &c., placed in warm situations ; in
old hot beds, in pits with glass frames, and in dark
frames or pits.

The general way of making Mushroom beds, is
to prepare a body of stable dung, moderately fer-
mented, to the thickness of about a yard, more or
less, according to the size and situation in which
the bed is to be formed ; when the strong heat has
subsided, an inch of good mould may he laid over,
and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six ~
inches apart; after this is done, another layer of
mould, an inch thick, may be applied, and then a
coat of straw. Beds well constructed, will produce
Mushrooms in five or six weeks, and will continue
to produce for several months, if care be taken, in
gathering, not to destroy the young ones. As Mush-
rooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw
should be spread carefully over the bed.

MUSHROOMS. 107

Beds made in a convenient place where there is
space all around, may be formed so as to make four
sloping surtaces, similar to the roof of a house ; this
by being spawned on the four sides will yield abun-
dantly. The celebrated Mr. Nicol makes his beds
Without spawn.' The foilowing are his «irections,
taken from Loudon’s Encyclopedia ot gardening.

“After having laid a floor of ashes, sione chips,
sravel, or brick bats, so as to Keep the bed quite dry,
and free from under damp, lay a course of horse-
droppings six inches thick. These sheuid te new
from the stables and must not be breken, and the
drier the better. They may be collected every day
until the whole floor or sole be covered to the above
thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment
or heat. In the whole process of making up, the
bed should be as much exposed to the air as possi-
ble; and it should be caretuily defended from wet,
if out. of doors. When this course is quite dry, and
judged to be past a state of fernientation, cover it
the thickness of two inches with tight dry earth ; if
sandy so much the better. - It is immaterial wheth-
er it be rich or not: the only use of earth here be-
ing for the spawn to run and mass in. Now lay
another course of droppings, and earth them over
as above, when past a state of fermentation: then
a third course, which in like manner earth over. |
This finishes the bed, w. ich will be a very strong
and productive one if properly managed afterwards.
Observe, that in forming the bed it should be a lit-
tle rounded, in order that the centre may not be
more wet or moist than the sides. This may. be
done in forming the sole or floor at first, and the bed
would then be of equal strength in all parts. If it
be made up against a wall in a cellar, stable, or shed,
it may have a slope of a few inches from the back
to the front, less or more, according to its breadth,

Te |

108 MUSHROOMS.

{ have sometimes been contented with two courses
as above, instead of three ; and often when mate-
rials were scarce, have made them up slighter,
thus : three four inch courses of droppings with one
inch of earth between each, and a two inch covering
at top. Such a bed as this I have had produce for
ten or twelve months together ; but very much de-
pends on the state of the materials, and on the care
taken in making it up; also on the after manage-
ment. The droppings of hard-fed horses only are
useful. Those of horses kept on green food will,
of themselves produce few or no mushrooms. 1f
have made up beds from farm horses, fed partly on
hard and partly on green food, and from carriage
or saddle horses, fed entirely on corn and hay ; trea-
ted them in the same way in every respect; and
have found not once, but always, those made from
the latter most productive. Droppings from hard
fed horses may be procured at the public stables
in towns, or at inns in the country, any time of the
year; and if the supply be plentiful, a bed of con-
siderable dimensions may be made and finished
within five or six weeks. In as many more weeks,
if in a stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will be-
gin to produce, and often sooner; but if the situa-
tion of the bed be cold, it will sometimes be two or
three months in producing Mushrooms.”

It may be necessary to state further, that extremes
of heat, cold, drought and moisture, should be avoid-
ed in the cultivation of Mushrooms. - If the tempe-
rature keeps upto 50° inthe winter, beds will be safe,
and the heat in the beds may rise to 60 or even 70°
without injury. Air also must be admitted in pro-
portion to the heat, and 60° should be aimed at as
a medium temperature. Water given a little ata
time, is better than too much at once after the
spawn has begun to spread; and the water for this

f

MUSHROOMS. | 109

purpose should always be made blood warm. A
light covering of straw may be always used to pre-
serve moisture on the surface; aud if the beds be
made in open frames, or otherwise subject to expo-
sure, the straw may be laid thicker than on beds
made ina cellar. Should beds fail in producing
Mushrooms, after having been kept over hot or wet,
it may be inferred that the spawn is injured or des-
troyed ; but if on the contrary a bed that has been
kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to
be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished
with warm water, and a coat. of warm dung may
be laid over the whole; if this does not enliven the
bed after having lain a month, take off the earth,
and if on examination there is no appearance of
spawn, the whole may be destroyed, but if on the
contrary the bed should contain spawn, it may be
renovated by covering it again, especially if any
small tubercles be discernable, but if the heat should
have declined, the spawn may be taken out and
used in a fresh bed. If beds be formed in hot bed
frames, under glass, some mats or siraw must be
laid over the glass to break off the intense heat of
the sun.

Although only one species of edible fungi has yet
been introduced to the garden, there are several
eatable kinds. In Poland and Russia there are
above thirty sorts in common use among the pea-
santry. They are gathered at different stages of
their growth, and used in various ways; raw, boil-
ed, stewed, roasted, and being huvg up and dried in
their stoves and chimneys, form a part of their win-
ter stock of provisions. Great caution is necessary
in selecting any species of this tribe for food, and
none but the Botanist should search for any but the
sort we have described. Physicians say, that all the
edible species should be thoroughly masticated be-

Fag

110 FLOWER GARDEN.

fore taken into the stomach, as this greatly lessens’
the effects of poisons. When accidents of the sort
happen, vomiting should be immediately excited,

and then the vegetable acids should be given, eith-
er vinegar, lemon juice, or that of apples; after
which, give ether and antispasmodic remedies, to
stop the excessive bilous vomiting. Infusions of
gallnut, oak bark, and Peruvian bark are recom-
mended as capable of neutralizing the poisonous
principle of Mushrooms. It is, however, the safest
way not to eat any but the well known kinds, until
they have been soaked in vinegar. Spirits of wine
and vinegar are calculated to extract some part of
their poison.

FLOWER GARDEN.

Previous to forming a Flower Garden, the ground
should be made mellow and rich, by being well
pulverized, manured, and prepared in every respect
as directed for the Kitchen Garden. A Flower
Garden should be protected from cold cutting winds
by’ close fences, or plantations of shrubs, forming a
close and compact hedge, which should be neatly
trimmed every year. Generally speaking, a Flower
Garden should not be upon a large scale ; the beds
or borders should in no part of them be broader than
the cultivater can reach to, without treading on
them: the shape and number of the beds must be
determined by the size of the ground, and the taste
of the person laying out the garden. Much of the
beauty of a pleasure garden depends on the manner
in which it is laid out; a great variety of figures
may be indulged in for the Flower bed. Some
choose oval or circular forms, others squares, trian-

FLOWER GARDEN. . 1il

gles, hearts, diamonds, &c., and intersected winding
sravel walks.

Neatness should be the prevailing characteristic
of a Flower Garden, and it shouid be so situated as
to form an ornamental appendage to the house ; and
where circumstances will admit, placed before win-
dows exposed to a southern or south-eastern aspect.
The principle on which it is laid out, ought to be
that of exhibiting a variety of colour and form, so
blended as to present one beautiful whole. Ina
small Flower Garden, viewed trom the windows of
a house, this effect is best produced by beds, or bor-
ders formed on the side of each other, and parallel
to the windows from whence they are seen, as by
that position the colours show themselves to the best
advantage. Ina retired part of the garden, a rus-
tic seat may be formed, over and around which ho-
ney-suckles and other sweet and ornamental creep-
ers and climbers may he trained on trellises, so as
to afford a pleasant retirement.

Although the greatest display is produced by a
general flower garden, that is, by cultivating such
a variety of sorts in one bed or border as may nearly
insure a constant blooming, yet bulbous plants,
while essential to the perfection of the Flower Gar-
den, lose something of their peculiar beauty when
not cultivated by themselves. The extensive vari-
ety of bulbous roots furnish means for the formation
of a garden, the beauty of which arising from an
intermixture of every variety of form and colour,
would well repay the trouble of cultivation, particu-
larly as by a judicious selection and management, a
succession of bloom may be kept up for some length
of time. As, however, bulbous flowers lose their
richest tints about the time that annuals begin to
display their beauty, there can be no well founded
objection to the latter being transplanted into the

I 12 FLOWERS.

bulbous beds, so that the opening blossoms of the
annuals may fill the place of those just withered,
and continueto supply the flower b-ds with all the
gaiety and splendour of the floral kingdom.

But the taste of the florist will be exercised to
little purpose, in his selection of flowers, if he does
not pay strict attention to the general state of his
garden. If there are lawns or grass walks, they
should be frequently trimmed, and more frequently
mowed and rolled, to prevent the grass from inter-
fering with the flower beds, and to give the whole
a neat regular carpet-like appearance. If there
are gravel walks, they should be frequently clean-
ed, rep] nished with fresh gravel, and rolled. Box
and other edgings should be kept clear of weeds,
and neatly trimmed every spring. Decayed plants
should be removed, and replaced, with vigorous ones
from the nursery bed. Tall flowering plants must
be supported by neat poles or rods; and ali dead
stalks and leaves from decayed flowers, most be fre-
quently removed.

In the summer season, all kinds of insects must
be timely destroyed, and in the evening of warm
days, the flowers will require frequent watering.

FLOWERS.

Whate’er has beauty, worth, or power,
Ory grace, or lustre, is a flower ;

Wit isa flower ; and bards prepare

The flowers of fancy for the fair ;

Deep in the bosom dwells a flower,

Not time shall taint, nor death devour ;
A Flower that no rude season fears, _
And virtue is the fruit it bears.

. FLOWERS. 113

A CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS.
Graines de fleures annuelles.

Alkekengi or Kite flower, Atropa physaloides.

Alyssum Sweet, Alyssum maritium.
§ Amaranthus, three co-
- loured, Amaranthus tricolor.

Amethyst, blue, Amethysiea ceruled.
§ Balsamines of various

colours, Impatiens balsamina.
Bladder ketmia, Hibiscus trionum.
Blue bottie, great, Centaurea cyanus major.
Blue bottle, small, cyanus minor.
§ Browallia (blue and

white, ) Browallia elata.
§ Cacalia, scarlet, Cacalia coccinea.
Candytuft, white and pur-

ple, Iberis alba and purpurea.
Do. sweet scented, odorata.
Catch-fly, Silene armeria.
§ Centaurea, great Ame-

rican, Centaurea Americana.

China asters of various
kinds and colours, Aster sinensis.

Chrysanthemum, white,

- yellow, and tri-co-

loured# Chrysanthenum coronari-
um.

§ Cockscomb, crimson

and yellow, Celoeia cristata.
* Convolvulus, dwarf, Convolvulus minor.
Coreopsis, Goiden, Coreopsis tincloria.
Coreopsis, elegant, Coreopsis grande flora.
Cuckold’s Horn, (two sta-

mined, Martynia diandria.

Devil in a bush, or Love
in a mist, Nigella damascena.

114° FLOWERS.

Dew Plant, Messembryanthemum gla-
brum.

* Evening primrose, - O8nothera grandiflora.

Eternal flower, yellow, Xeranthemum lucidum.
Do. purple, annuum.

Euphorbia, variegated, Euphorbia variegata.

Feather, grass, Stipa pinnata.

Flos adonis, Adonis miniata.

§ Globe Amaranthus,
purple, white, and

striped, Gomphrena globosa.
Hawkweed, yellow, Crepis barbata aurantia.
Do. red, rubra.
* Hedge Hogs, Medicago intertezta.
§ Ice plant, Mesembryanthemum chrys-
tallinum.

Jacobea or Groundsell,
purple and white, Senecio elegans and alba.
Job’s Tears, Coix lachryma Jobi.
Larkspur, broad leaved, Delphinium peregrinium.
Do. branching and

upright, : consolidum.
La atera, European, Lavatera trimestris.
Love lies bleeding, Amaranthus melancholicus.
* Lupins of various co-

lours, Lapinus var.
Marigold, African, Tagetes erecta.

Do. French, patula.

Marigold, starry, Calendula stellata.
* Marvel of Peru, (or 4

o'clock, ) Mirabilis jalapa.
* Mignonette, (sweet

scented, ) Reseda odorata.
Nolana, trailing, Nolana prostrata.
* Oats, animated, Avena sensativa.

Pansey or Heart’s Ease, Viola tricolor,
* Poppy, horned, Glaucum lutewn.

FLOWERS. i15

* Poppy, officinal white, Papaver somniferum.

Pentapetes, scarlet, Pentapetes Phenica.
Prince’s feather, ‘Amaranthus hypocondriacus
§ Sensitive plant, Mimosa sensitiva.
Strawberry Spinach, Blitum capitatum.

Sunflower, iall and dwarf, Helianthus annuus. ©
Sweet Sultan, purple, :
white, and yellow, Centaurea var.
* Stock Ten Week, or
gilliflower, various co-

lours, Cheiranthus annuus.
Touch me not, Noli me tangere.
Trefoil, crimson, Trifolium incarnatum.
Do. sweet scented, odorata.
* Venus’ looking-glass, Campanula speculum.
Venus’ navel wort, Cotyledon macrophyllum.
Ximenisia, Mexican, Ximenisia ensaloides.

Zinnia, red and yellow, Zinnia, rubra and lutea.

The following are climbin. pianis, and will re-
quire to be planied in situations wlie:e they can be
supported by sticks or twine, without interfering
with other plants.

Balloon vine, or love in a

puff, Cardiospermum.
§ Cypress vine, Ipomoea coccinea.
Fumitory pink, Fumaria fungosa.
Hyacinth Bean, Dilochos, purpurea & aiba.
Morning Glory, various
colours, Convolvulus major.
Balsam Apple and Pear, Momordica balsamina.
Gourd, the bottle, Cucurbita lagenaria.
Do. two coloured, bicolor.
Do. orange, aurantia.
Snake Melon, Cucumis melo anguinus.

Sweet Peas of various |
kinds and colours, Lathyrus odoratus.
il

116 FLOWERS.

All kinds of annual Flower seeds may be sown
in the month of April and May, on borders or beds
of clean light earth, which should be previously
manured with rich compost or old dung. This be-
ing incorporated well with the soil, the beds should
be levelled, and the seeds sown either in small
patches, each kind by itself, or in drills from 1-4 to
1-2 aninch deep, according to the size or nature of
the seed. Those who would have their plants to
flower early, should sow the hardy kinds the last
week in March, or early in April, the most tender
(which are marked §) may be sown in boxes or pots
of light earth at the same time. These, if exposed
to the sun every day, and sheltered in cold nights,
will be forwarded in growth, and be fit to transplant
early in June. Those marked *, may also be sown
in small pots. As these plants do not well bear
transplanting, they should be turned out of the pots
with the balls of earth entire, and placed in the
ground where they are intended to flower ; or if
the seed be sown in a bed with other kinds, they
should be carefully transpianted with a trowel,
without disturbing the roots. The most eligible
way to obtain early flowers, is to prepare a slight
hot bed for the tender kinds, and either to plunge
the pots therein up to their brims, or to sow the seed
in the earth in shallow drills not more than a quar-
ter of an inch deep.

To prevent disappointment, I would reeommend
that great care be taken to keep the seed beds as
clear from weeds as possible. It cannot be denied
but young plants are apt to get smothered and some-
times pulled up with weeds. To obviate this, I
would suggest that the seeds be sown in shallow
drills, each kind by itself, and that an account be
kept of the contents of each drillin a book ; also of
all seeds that are sown at different times, and by be-

FLOWERS. 117

ing particular in the dates, you may always know
when to expect your plants to come up. In order
that this may be rendered plain to my readers, |
adopt the following plan of entry of six kinds sown
in pots, and six in the open ground :

April 20, sowed flower seeds in pots.

Pot marked A, or 1, Amaranthus tricolor.
B, or 2, Balsamines.
C, or 3, Cockscomb, crimson.
D, or 4, Egg Plant.
E, or 5, Ice Plant.
F, or 6, Mignonette.

These pots may be either marked with letters or
figures on the outside, to answer with the book, or
notches may be cut in wood, or other labels affixed
to the pots, and entered accordingly.

April 20, sowed flower seeds in drills, as under :
No. 1, Bladder ketmia.
2, Coreopsis tinctoria.
» Yellow eternal flower.
, Globe amaranthus.
, Prince’s feather.
, Larkspur branching.

any
> Ors CO

If these numbers be continued to 100, or even
1000, there ean be no mistake, provided the rows
are all marked according to the entry in the book;
or if No. 1 be noted, plain sticks will answer after-
wards, if one be stuck at each end of every row.
In this case, it would be well to leave a space every
ten or twenty rows, and note the number of the
rows ; by this means, they can be the more easily
traced.

If the book be kept by any other than the Gar-
dener, each bag or paper of seed should be marked
or numbered according the entry in the book, and

118 FLOWERS.

ziven to the Gardener, with directions to sow them
in the regular order.

BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS.
Graines de fleurs bisannuelles et vivaces.-

Those marked || are Biennials.
Adonis, spring flowering, Adonis vernalis.

Alpine Columbine, Aquilegia alpina.
Alyssum, yellow, Alyssum sacatile.
Asiatic globe flower, Trollius Asiaticus.
Bee Larkspur, Delphinium elatum.
|| Canterbury Bells, (blue

and white,) Campanula medium.
Cardinal flower, scarlet, Lobelia cardinalis.
Cassia, Maryland, Cassia Marylandica.
Carnation, pink, Dianthus caryophyllus.
Chinese, imperial pink, Chinensis.
Clove, do. hortensis.
Colutea, scarlet, Sutherlandia frutescens.

Coreopsis Lanceolatum, Coreopsis lanceolatum.
Coronet, flowered Lych-

niss, Lychnis coronata.

| Clary, purple topped, Salvia sclara.
Crimson Bergamot, Monarda Kalmiana.
Columbine, double, Aquilegia vulgaris.
Dragon’s head, Dracocephalum.
European globe flower, Trollius Europaeus.
Eupotorium, blue, Eupotorium cerulea.
|| Fox-glove, purple, Digitalis purpurea.

Do white, alba.
Fraxanella, red, Dictamnus rubra.

Gentian, purple, Gentiana saponaria. _

FLOWERS.

Gentian, Porcelain flow-

ered,
Gilliflower, many sorts,
Globe Thistle,

118

Gentiana adscendens.
Cheiranthus incanus.
Echinops spherocephalus.

Hollyhock, black Ant-

werp,
Do.

Do. English do.

\| Honesty, or Satin Flow-

er,
Ivy Leaved Toad F'ax,
Jacob’s Ladder,
Liatris, long spiked,
Lupin Perennial,

Althea fl. nigra.

China of sorts, Althea Chinensis var.

Anglica var.
Lanaria biennis.
Linaria cymbalaria.
Polemonium ceruleum.
Liatris spicata.
Lupinus perennis.

Lychnis, Dwarf Moun-

tain,
scarlet,

Do.

Lychnis Alpina.
Chalcedonica.

London Pride, or Maiden

Pink,
Monks’-hood,
Monkey-flower, blue,
Phlox, or French Lilac,
Pink, pheasant-eved,
Perennial Campanula,
Perennial Larkspur,
Purple Perennial Flax,

|| Pyramidal Bell Flower,

Queen of the Meadows,
Rose Campion,

Dianthus deltoides.
/iconitum napellus.
Mimulus ringens.

Phlox, many species.
Dianthus plumarius.
Campanula persicafolia.
Delphinium grandiflorum.
Linwn perenne.
Campanula pyramidalis.
Spiraca ulmaria.
Agrostemma coronaria.

Rudbeckia, yellow and Rudbeckia lutea and pur-

purple,

ured.

Sophora, white and blue, Sophora alba and cerulea.

Sun Flower, perennial
many flowering,
|| Sweet Scabious,
Sweet Rocket,
Sweet William,
11

3
_ Helianthus altissimus.

Scabiosa atropurpurea,
Hesperis matronalis.
Dianthus barbatus.

+

420° FLOWERS.

i] Sweet Chili Marigold, Tagetes lucida.

Valerian, Garden, Valeriana rubra.
Valerian, Greek, Polemonium cerulea.
Verbena, purple, Verbena purpurea.
Veronica, variegated, Veronica variegata.
Veronica, tall blue, Veronica elata cerulea.

| Wall Flower, bloody, Cheiranthus cheiri.
(Climbing Plants. )

Ever-lasting Peas, Lathyrus latifolius.
Purple Glycine, Glycine apios.
Scarlet Trumpet Flower, Bignonia radicans.
Sweet Virgin’s Bower, — Clematis flammula.
Traveller’s J oy, vitalba.
Virginian Virgin’s Bower, Virginiana.

Biennial and perennial flower seeds may be sown
in the month of April, in shallow drills. If this bu-
siness be performed in the manner recommended for
annuals, they can be easily distinguished from each
other; and as these plants do not flower the first
year, they may be thinned out, or removed from the
seed beds as soon as they are well rooted, and plan-
ted either into different parts of the flower beds, o1
in anursery bed. If the latter plan be adopted, they
should be planted in rows a foot or more apart, and
kept free from weeds by means of a small hoe,
which will greatly promote their growth, and pre-
pare them for transplanting into the ground, (where
they are intended to flower,) either in the autumn
or early in the ensuing spring. It may be remark-
ed that biennials are raised principally from seed
- sown every year. They seldom survive the second
winter to flower in perfection, unless they are re-
newed by cuttings of top shoots, young flower stalks,
or casual root-offsets, layers, &c. It will be unne-
cessary to take this trouble unless it be with any

FLOWERS. | 121
extraordinary double-flowering plants. Sore of
the perennials may be increased by root offsets de-
tached from the old plants, and planted in Spring
or Autumn; others by bottom suckers and slips of
top shoots, layers, and pipings of young shoots, &c.

It may be necessary to state further, that there
area great variety of beautiful double flowering pe-
rennial herbaceous plants, that will not produce
seed; many of these may be obtained of the Flo-
rists, and should be introduced into the regular
flower beds; the mode of increasing such, is by
layers, cuttings, offsets, &c. detached from the old
plants. As the earth within the flower beds will -
need to be fresh dug and replenished with good
compost or manure, once in two or three years, it
may be necessary to take up all the perennial plants
at such times. Such roots as may be overgrown,
should be deprived of their surplus offsets, and may
be planted in a nursery bed, or returned with the
parent plants into the regular flower beds.

In removing plants into the beds where they are
intended to flower, great pains should be taken to
preserve some of the earth to the roots, and the
ground should be previously brought into good con-
dition, so that they may strike freely, and produce
their flowers in perfection. The plants should be
so arranged that they may all be seen. The most
dwarfish may be placed in front, and others in a reg-
ular gradation tothe tallest behind; or the tallest
may be planted along the middle of the beds, and
the others on each side according to their varied
heights and colours.

There is no part of gardening which requires so
much elegance of taste and fancy, as in setting off
a border or bed of intermixed flowers to advantage.
In assemblage with other flowers, the different kinds
of hardy bulbs may be planted in small clumps of

122 | FLOWERS.

sixygeven, or eight inches in diameter, three, four,
five or more roots in each, according to their size
and growth, and these at suitable distances’ from
one another. Likewise, observe to diversify the
kinds and colours, so as to display when in bloom
the greatest possible variety of shades and contrasts.

In my preliminary observations, I directed the
attention of my readers to some important points
respecting walks, edgings, &. —although box is
superior to any thing else for ecigings; ‘yet in ex-
tensive gardens, dwarf plants of various kinds may
be used for Aes purpose. Thrift is the neatest
small evergreen next to box; but Violets, Pinks,
Perewinkle, Pansey, oreven Parsley, afk hyme, Straw-
berry plants, &c. may be used for the sake of diver-
sity. These will require frequent watering and
trimming, and the Thrift, &c. should be sometimes
taken up, divided at the roots,-and replanted. Box
edgings will also require frequent pruning, and
trimming; and once in from seven to ten years, the
whole may be taken up, divided and replanted, and
the surplus slips may be planted in a nursery bed
in rows about a foot apart; these will be suitable
for making edgings the year following..

Flower beds should be kept free from weeds, and
watered occasionally in the summer. In the au-
tumn they should be covered with straw or hght
litter; this should’ be taken offin the spring, and
the ground should be hoed and dressed in sucha
manner as to enliven the earth around the roots of
the plants, as also to give the whole a neat appear-
ance.

Having already exceeded my limits, I must omit
furnishing a Catalogue of Bulbous Flower roots.
Messrs Thorburn & Sons, import all the various
kinds every year from Holland. The following di-
rections for their manegement are annexed to their
catalogue :

MANAGEMENT OF BULBS. 123

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTIVATION AND
MANAGEMENT OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

In no class of plants has nature so varied her de-
licate tints asin this. It would seem as if each
change she was capable of forming, was included
in the varying beauties of the Tulip. In some gar-
dens in Holland, they cultivate, by distinct names,
above eleven hundred varieties of Tulips, thirteen
hundred of Hyacinths, and six hundred of Ranun-
culus and Anemones, some of which are sold as high
as sixty dollars the single root ; and it is mentioned
in the travels of Mr. Dutens in that country in 1771,
of his having seen ten thousand florins ayes re-
fused for a single Hyacinth.

Situation, Ge. —A southern exposure, dry and
airy, and sheltered from the north winds, is prefer-
able for most bulbs, but Anemones and Ranunculus
will do better in a situation with a southern aspect,
and at the same time in some measure sheltered
from the intense heat of noonday. Perhaps no
class of flowers affords so many delights, and so
richly repays us for each little care bestowed on
them.

The proper compost for Hyacinths, Tulips, Crown
Imperials, Tris, Ranunculus, Anemones, Crocuses,
Colchicums, and most other bulbs, is as follows :

One third sandy one third well rotted cow yard
manure, and one third good garden mould. Let
the beds thus formed be well pulverized to the depth
of fifteen or eighteen inches, that the three compo-
nent parts may be well mixed together ; a fourth
part of rotten wood or vegetable mould from a
swamp may be added to the above, if convenient te
be obtained, and will be at all times epee in
"giving additional lightness to the soil.

124 MANAGEMENT OF BULBS.

The beds should be raised from two to three
inches above the level of the walks, which will give
an opportunity for all superfluous moisture to run”
off; some sand (not gravel) strewed in the trenches
made for the roots, both before and after placing
them, would be of advantage. |

On the approach of winter, it would be beneficial —
fo spread the beds with tanner’s bark, withered
leaves, straw, or light rotten earth from the woods,
such as is formed by the decay of leaves, to the depth
of two or three inches, as it prevents any ill effects
which a severe season might have on the roots; but
it should be carefully raked off again early in the
spring.

Lime of Planting, §&c.—For Hyacinths, Tulips,
Crown Imperials, Lillies, Polyanthus, Narcissus,
Double Narcissus, Jonquilles, Iris, Crocuses, Col-
chicums, Star of Bethlehems, Peonies, Snowdrops,
Snowflakes, Gladiolus, and most other hardy bulbs,
the preferable seasons for planting are the months
of November and December.

Polyanthus Narcissus is more delicate than Hya-
cinths and Tulips: when they are planted in the
open ground, it is advisable to cover the beds with
straw, leaves, &c. to the depth of six or seven inches,
and uncover them about the middle of March.

The Ranunculus and Anemone are not so ten-
der as is generally supposed ; they may either be
planted in October or November, ina warm situa-
tion; and be protected during winter by a covering
of three or four inches of leaves or tanners’ bark, or
they may be kept in dry sand during the winter
season, and be planted in March or April. To
have a succession of flowers, a proportion may be
planted in autumn, and the residue in the spring;
and, if treated as above directed, very little care is
necessary to have them flower in perfection.

MANAGEMENT OF BULBS. 125

The differentspecies of Amaryllis, Ixias, Ferraria
Tigrida or Tiger Flower, Double Tuberose, and
most other delicate bulbs, may be planted during
the months of November or December, in pots,when
intended to be sheltered during winter, or they can
be kept in dry sand until the month of May, (which
is the preferable methoc,) and then be planted in
the open ground, or in flower-pots, and exposed to
the air when the weather is perfectly settled.

Lachenalias should be potted in August, in a light
sandy soil, well énriched with vegetable mould, and
a small quantity of white sand.

The Double Dahlia.—Vhis flower has lately been
called the Georgina. It is a native of Mexico, but
has been brought to great perfection in England.
The climate of the United States is remarkably con-
genial to its habits, and it grows with great luxuri-
ance. It also succeeds admirably in the West In-
dia Islands. It is becoming yuite fashionable, its
many fine qualities bringing it into deserved esti-
mation. When the weather gets warm, about the
beginning of May, you will observe the young shoots
which have forced their way through the old stem
which is left with the root ; split this down, so that
a shoot or eye may remain with each piece. Plant
in arich soil in the borders three feet apart, or in
clumps, selecting a variety of colours, and placing
the tallest growing kinds in the centre. Put the
root two inches below the surface, and if it has but
one good eye, it will make a prettier plant than
when it has more. After it has grown about three
feet, take some day when the ground has been soft-
ened by rain, and drive in a stout stick, from six to
ten feet long, about eighteen inches into the ground,
near each plant; but take care not to let it be so
close as to injure it; or the sticks may be put in at
the time of planting. Let the stick be made from

\
126 MANAGEMENT OF BULBS.

one inch or one and a half inch plank, planed
smooth, with a pointed and notched head, and
painted green. The branches of the Dahlia are ex-
tremely brittle ; and if your garden is exposed to
the sweeping winds which often occur in the fall,
you must tie every branch very carefully to the
stick, otherwise the expectations of a year may be
laid prostraie in an instant. This is not so neces-
sary 1n the city, or in well sheltered gardens. Some-
times a few forward buds will open their premature
beauties to the burning beams of a July or August
sun, but their lustre is quickly dimmed. | The lat-
ter end of September, some seasons all October, and
part of November, witness the Dahlia in all its glo-
ry. The brilliancy of the flowers may be preserved
for several days by siading them. Some of the
kinds are inconceivably splendid, and no flower ex-
hibits such a variety of all that is rich and magnifi-
centincolours. Whata pity it is, that with all its
desirable properties, it should be so tender. The
frost blights it like a pestilence, and when that has
taken place, the stem must be cut off two or three
inches from the ground, and after a few days the
root taken up and exposed to dry for some time,
then cover it well in dry sand, and put it away in
the cellar to remain through the winter.

The London florists, it is said, from choice, plant
the Dahlia in poor gravelly soil, and in England it
may do very well; because whatever may be the
nature of the soil, the continued moisture would
force them to grow, if it were saw-dust ; but here

it is altogether a different matter. Ifthe weather
~ should remain dry for five or six weeks in summer,
~ Dahlias planted in poor soil are absolutely burnt
up, destroyed ;, and only those in good and gener-
ous soils can sustain the daily scorching of an Ame-
rican sun. We had forcible evidence of this fact,

MANAGEMENT OF BULBS. 127

both last year and this. A gentleman, whom we
know very well, planteda piece of the Alexandria
Victoria in a part of his garden, which is as rich as
a hot bed, and in November it surpassed in beauty
and magnificence any plant ‘ever raised in a starved
and hungry soil. It was upwards of twelve feet
high, and there were in full expansion at the same
time, between thirty and forty large double flowers
‘of the most dazzling and brilliant colour.

In the early part of this summer a great quantity
of rain fell, which was very favourable to the growth
of the Dahlia, and many fine flowers opened in July;
but the subsequent long-continued drought ruined
and cut off all those which were not planted in a
substantial soil.

Oxalis.—This is a genus of pretty little plants ;
their roots are very small bulbs, articulated, jointed,
or granulated, in a manner peculiar to this genus ;
they grow well in a sandy loam, and require only
very small pots; care must be taken not to water
them after they are done flowering. If planted in
the open ground, plant them in April in beds of light
sandy soil; in case of severe weather, throw a mat.
over them till the beginning of May, then all cover-
ing may be removed for the season, and as each sort
finishes flowering, and the leaves begin to fade, take
them up, and place the bulbsin small pots of dry
sand, carefully preserved from frost. If intended
for blowing in the house in the winter season, plant
them the beginning of September, and leave them
out tillthe weather becomes cool, say beginning of
October ; their treatment in doors is the same as
other bulbs. — ci i

Mexican Tiger Flower, (Ferraria tigrida.)—The
root of this flower should be planted in April, or
early in May, in a light sandy soil, in a warm situ-
ation ; it will also do well in a pot, and flowers in

12 |

128 MANAGEMENT OF BULBS.

July. It often happens that the same root bears
several flowers in succession. It is scentless, but
very beautiful. In. October, cut off the stalk,
take up the root, dry it well for a few days, and put
it away in dry sand, till the spring. If there are
any offsets, take them off, and plant them separate-
ly from the mother root. | :

Depth and Distances.—Hyacinths, Amaryllis,
Martagon, and other large Lillies, and Ponies,
should be planted at the depth ot four inches; Crown
{mperials and Polyanthus Narcissus, five inches ;.
Tulips, Double Narcissus, Jonquilles, Colchicums,
and Snowflakes, three inches ; Bulbous Irises, Cro-
cuses, Arums, small] Fritellarias, Tiger Flowers,
Gladiolus, Lachenalis, and Snowdrops, two inches;
Ranunculus, Anemonies, Oxalis, and Dog’s Tooth
Violets, one inch ; always measuring trom the top
of the bulb. The rows should be about ten inches
apart, and the roots be placed from four to six inches
apart in the rows, aecoruing to their size.

Take up Bulbous Roots about a month after the
bloom is completely over, in the following manner;
when the plants put ona yellowish decayed ap-
pearance, then take up the roots, and cuff the stem
and foliage, within an inch of the bulbs, but leave
the fibres, &c. attached to it; spread them in an airy
room, for two or three weeks to dry, after which,
wrap each root carefully in paper, (as the air is very
injurious to bulbs) or cover them in sand _ perfectly
dry.

The culture of delicate exotic bulbs in green-hou-
ses, &c. is sufficiently simple, provided two points
be attended to; the first is, to take care not to in-
jure their leaves and keep them near the light, and
turn the pots frequently round, or the plants will
draw to the light and grow crooked ; and the se-
cond is, when the plants have done growing, to

7

MANAGEMENT OF BULBS. 129

give them little or no water. From ignorance of
the importance of attending to these two. points,
bulbs have been often known to have lived for years
in green-houses and shown no blossoms, especially
of the genera Amaryllis. Whether a bulb (which
does not bloom the first year) will blossom or not,

depends entirely on its culture during the foregoing
season ; that is, whether it was so circumstanced as
to bring its leaves to perfection. Ifthe leaves were
fully grown, and properly exposed to the influence
of the light, then the sap will have been duly elab-
orated by them, and an embryo flower formed in.

the bulb; if otherwise, no embryo will have been

formed, and no culture whatever during the SUCr
ceeding year will effect the production of a flower
during “that year. All bulbs have a certain period of
the year in which they are ina dormant state; this,
ina state of nature, Is invariably after the seeds are
ripened; but asin a green-house, many or most of
this family do not ripen seeds, the gardener is re-
quired to watch.the period when the leaves show
indications of decay, and then to lessen supplies of
water, and shortly afterwards to cease from water-
ing altogether, till the. season returns, when the
bulbs regerminate. The bulbs during this period
are on the whole, best kept in pots, under the soil
in a dry shady place, and in the same temperature
as that in which they are in the habit of growing.

Some bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus,
Crown Imperials, &c. may be taken out of the soil,

(as before directed) and kept some time in papers ;
but if this is done for more than seven or eight
weeks, it tends to weaken the bulb.

The greater part of exotic bulbs should be taken
out of the pot and repotted in a fresh soil, a week or
two before their period of regerminating ; loam,
with a little sand, vegetable mould, or mould form-

130 MANAGEMENT OF BULBS.

ed by the decay of manure, forms a compost, or
soil, in which almost all bulbs will thrive..

The Amaryllis requires a richer loam than most
bulbs, and Izias, Gladiolus, and Ozalis, a soil rather
more sandy than the general average, and this com-
post answers well for most of the Cape, or South-
American bulbs. It is very desirable that plants or
bulbs in pots, should be named; the best mode of
naming plants in pots, is to take a flat slip of wood,
sharpen one end; rub alittle white lead on two or
three inches of its smoothest surface at the opposite
end; write the name with a black lead pencil on the
white lead when it is about half dried—(the pencil.
mark will dry in with the-paint, and nothing but .
the decay of the wood will efface it)—and then in-
sert the stick in the pot.

Amaryllis Formosissima, or Jacobean Lily. _This
is a flower of great beauty. It throws out grace-
fully its glittering carmine-coloured petals, which
have a brilliancy almost too intense for the eye to
restupon. It must be planted in a clean, new soil,
naturally rich: take some from under fresh grass

‘sod, and mix ina. little sand. Plant in April or May,
in a pot, orin the open ground ina sunny situation :
place the root so thatthe highest point is not more
than an inch above the surface: it will flower in
June and July, and will well repay the httle trou-
ble of putting it into the ground. In November cut
off the stalk, take up the root, and after drying it for
a few days, pack it in dry sand, and put it in the cel-
lar, to keep it from the winter’s frosts.

The Amaryllis gigantee, Johnsoniensis, vitata,
reginee, and belladonna, should be potted very care-
fully, observing to set the bulb not more than half
its depth in the ground, that is, on the top of the
earth, so that half of the bulb can be seen ; ifplan-
ted any depth in the earth they will not bloom, as

MANAGEMENT OF aca 0h, ae

the plant derives its nourishment only from the fi-
bres; all the Amaryllis genus require a warm ag
sure.

METHOD TO BLOOM HYACINTHS AND OTHER BULES
IN THE WINTER SEASON, IN POTS AND GLASSES.

For this purpose, Single Hyacinths, and such as
are designated earliest among the double, are to be
preferred. Single Hyacinths are generally held in
less estimation than double ones, their colours, how-
ever, are more vivid, and their bells, though small-
er, are more numerous; some of the finer sorts. are
exquisitely beautiful; they are preferable for flow-
ering in winter, to most of the double ones, as they
bloom two or three weeks earlier, and are very
sweet scented. Roman Narcissus, Double Jonquil-
les, Polyanthus Narcissus, Persian Cyclamens, Dou-
ble Narcissus, and Crocuses, also make a fine ap-
pearance in the pirlour during winter. I[t is a re-
amarkable circumstance of the Crocus, that it keeps
its petals expanded during tolerably bright candle
or lamp light, in the same way as it does during the
light of the sun. If the candle be removed, the
Crocuses close their petals, as they do in the gar-
den when a cloud obscures the sun; and when the
artificial light is restored, they open again, as they
do with the return of the direct solar rays.

Bulbs intended for blooming in pots during the
winter season, should be planted during the months
of October and November, and be left exposed to
the open air until it begins to freeze, and then be
placed in the green-house, or a room where fire is
usually made. They will need moderate occasion-
al waterings, until they begin to grow; then they

|

a
132. MANAGEMENT OF BULBS. ‘
should have abundance of air in mild weather, and
plenty of water from the saucers, underneath the
pots, whilst in a growing state; and should be ex-
posed as much as possible to the sun, air, and light,
(o prevent the leaves from growing too long, or be-
coming yellow.

The roots of the Double ion Narcissus, if plan- ©
ted late in the autumn, will flower in January; they
may be put into pots of earth, or into bulb glasses
with water only; should be kept sheltered as soon
as the weather turns cool; their beauty, fragrance,
easy culture and cheapness seem to us to make one
of the most desirable flowers imported for the orna-
ment of our rooms. —

Hyacinths and other bulbs intended for glasses
should be placed in them about the middle of No-
vember, the glasses being previously filled with pure
water, so that the bottom of the bulb may just touch
the water; then place them for the first ten days
in a dark room to promote the shooting of the roots,
after which expose them to the light and sun as
much as possible. They will blow, however, with-
out any sun; but the colours of uke flowers will be
inferior. The water should be changed as often as
it becomes impure; draw the roots entirely out of
the glasses, rins> off the fibres in clean water, and
the glasses well washed inside; care should be ta-
ken not to suffer the water to freeze, as it not only
bursts the glasses, but often causes the fibres to de-
cay. Whether the water be hard or soft is of no
great consequence ; but soft or rain water is con-
sidered preferabl~, but it must be perfectly clear.

Forced bulbs are seldom good for any thing af-
terwards ; however, those who wish to preserve
them, may immerse them wholly in water for a few
weeks ; and then having taken them up and dried
them in the shade for a few days, they may be plan-

-

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. [33

ted in a good soil, when they will sometimes flower
the second year. It does not clearly appear in what
way the water operates when the bulb is wholly
immersed; but it is certain that bulbs so treated in-
crease in size and solidity by it, and have an incom-
parably better chance of flowering the second year,
~ than those which have not been so treated. Most
probably their total immersion enables them to ob-
tain a greater proportion of oxygen from the water.

Nosegays should have the water in which’ their
ends are inserted changed, on the same principle as
bulbous roots; and a much faded nosegay, or one
dried up, may often be recovered for a time, by co-
vering with a glass bell, or cup, or by substituting
warm water for cold. |

Very fine Hyacinths have been grown in a draw-
ing-room, in the following novel manner. A quan-
tity of moss, classically called hypnum, and vulgarly
fog, was placed in a water-tight box, about eight
or nine inches deep, into which the bulbs were pla-
ced in the end of September, without mould, and
duly watered. The result of this experiment was
highly favourable. :

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

Shrubs are so closely connected with flowering
plants, and indeed so many of them are embellished
with flowers, that they may be considered as essen-
tial to the completion of an ornamental garden.
They are all perennial, and are divided into two
classes, deciduous and ever-green ; the former lose
their leaves in the winter, the latter only-shed them
when others are ready to supply their places.
Shrubs are not only necessary to the embellishment

134. FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

of a flower garden, but many kinds of them are eli-
gible. for hedges to it, and may be planted at
a trifling expense. — These hedges should be fre-
quently trimmed and trained, the sides cut even,
and the tops sparingly clipped, so as to make
them ornamental, as. well as useful, and also to in-
crease the vigour of their growth. When the
hedges become vupen or naked at the bottom, they
should be plashed down; this is done by cutting
the branches half through near the ground; they
will then bend easily, and may be interwoven with
es adjoining branches. When Shrubs, Creepers,
r Climbers are planted against walls or trellises,
aie” on account of their rarity, delicacy, or to con-
ceal a rough fence or other unsightly object, they
require different modes of training ; some attach
‘themselves naturally, as the ivy, and merely require
to be occasionally guided, so as to cause a regular
distribution of their shoots ; others must. be treated
like fruit trees, trained thinly, if blossoms are the
object, and rather thicker, if the intention be to show
the foliage to the greatest possible advantage.
Ornainental shrubs grow from one foot to twelve
or more in height ; and where such are planted for
ornament, the height of each plant when full grown
should be considered, and also the mode of growth,
that every one may be so planted as to show to ad-
vantage, observing that the tall growing should be
planted in the back borders, and those of low growth .
forward; but if they are required to be planted in
clumps, ‘they should be so arranged as to rise gra-_
dually from the sides to the middle, and be after-
wards neatly trimmed. Shrubs require an annual
pruning, at which time, cut out all irregular and su-
perfluous branches, and head down such as require.
it, forming them into handsome bushes; apply
stakes to such as may need support, and see that

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 135

the low growing ones do not injure each other, nor
interfere with other dwarfish plants near them.

Many kinds of Shrubs may be raised from seed
sown early in the spring, but are more commonly
propagated by suckers, layers, or cuttings. Like
other plants, they require a good soil, which should
be manured every two or three years, and some of
the tender kinds should have some protection in
winter. The following list, taken from an article in
the New-York Farmer and Horticultural Reposito-_
ry, furnished by Mr. Floy, contains the most of
those usually planted in gardens and on lawns.
These will furnish a succession of flowers from
spring until fall, and may be obtained at the nurse-
’ ries here at moderate prices. .

Amorpha ‘fruticosa.—Indigo shrub, with hand-
some bunches of purple flowers in great. quantities,
Amygdalus nana, Dwarf double flowering Almond,
a very beautiful dwarf shrub, about 3 feet high.
tralia spinosa, or Angelica tree, about 10 feet high,
flowers in very large bunches, and continues a long
season. . Cytisus Laburnum, or Golden chain, a
most elegant shrub, with long racemes or bunches
of yellow flowers, inthe greatest profusion ; there
are two kinds, the English and the Scotch Labur-
num. The Scotch is the largest, forming a pretty
large shrub; the English kind is greener, more
compact, and by some, thought to be the handsom-
est ; they ought to be inevery gaiden. Calycanthus
Floridus, Allspice or sweet scented shrub, a native of
the Southern States ; the flowers are of a very dark.
chocolate colour, and the fragrance very much. re-
sembles ripe strawberries, easily kept where once in-
troduced ; the shrub: generally grews about 5 feet
high in gardens. Ceanothus Americanus, Red root, |
or Jersey Tea tree, worth having a plant or two in
the collection, as it flowers in profusion. Cercis si-

136 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

liquastrum, or Judas tree. The flowers appear very
early before the leaves come out, and make a fine
appearance ; as it grows rather tall, it is calculated
for the back row of the shrubbery. Coluteé arbo-
rescens,, or Bladder Senna, having bunches of yeflow
flowers, which are succeeded by seeds in a kind of
bladder, calculated for the back or centre row of
shrubberies. poh
Crategus oxyacantha, the Hawthorn. | It makes ~
a pretty appearance planted out singly in the back
or centre row ; the flowers are very fragrant.; it is
sometimes called the Pride of May; the double
white, double scarlet, and single scarlet Hawthorn, are’
extremely beautiful, and ought to be in every plan-
tation. Hawthorn hedges are much used in Eng-
land, where they look very handsome when kept
clipped; but they do not answer so well in this
country, the heat of our summers causing the leaves
to fall off early, often in July ; on that account they
are not much used. We have several things which
are better calculated for that purpose.
Cydonia Japonica, or Pyrus Japonica, a very beau-
tiful scarlet flowering shrub, from Japan, has not
been in cultivation here for many years. It isfound |
to be very hardy, resisting our most severe frosts ;
it is ever-green, flowers very early, and continues a
long time. A second flowering takes place in the
latter part of the summer. Itis every way a desir-
able shrub. Daphne mazerium, one of our. most
early flowering shrubs, often flowering in February,
and very. sweet scented. Itisrather tender in some
situations, but will stand our ordinary winters very
wellin a sheltered situation. mains
Dirca palustris, or Leather wood, a pretty little
shrub, growing very regular in shape, and has the
appearance of a large tree in miniature ; it is a na-

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 137

tive of our northern states, the flowers appear very
early, are yellow, and come out before the leaves.

Gymnocladus canadensis, or Kent ucky. Coffee tree.
The berries have a resemblance to coffee, and are
said to be used for this purpose ; however, it is a
beautiful tree, with handsome feathered leaves, and
makes a fine contrast with others. It should be
planted in the back or centre of the plantation, and
is very hardy.

Halesia diptera, and Halsea tetraptera, two winged
and four winged Silver Bell, or snow-drop tree.
They are both natives of the southern states, but
are perfectly hardy here; our most severe winters
do not hurt them, The former kind flowers a month
later than the latter kind, which flowers early in
May. They are both elegant shrubs. ae

Hibiscus Syriacus, fl. pleno The double flowering
althea frutex, of which there aré several varieties,
the double white, double red, double red and white,
and striped, are the most showy ; they commence
their flowering late in July, and continue till fall, .
coming in at a very acceptable ume. The single
kinds, of which there are many Varieties, are scarce
worth cultivating, the double ones being raised quite
as well, and are equally hardy. These are indis-.
pensable in every plantation.

Hypericum frutescens, shrubby hypericum. There
are several species of this. small beautiful shrub, all
natives of the southern states, but perfectly hardy
here. They all flower in the greatest profusion,
and continue for a long season. They should be
planted in the front row.

Kerria Japonica, or Corchorus Japonica, yellow Ja-
pan Globe flower; although a native of Japan, like
many other Japan flowers, it is perfectly hardy here.
It flowers in the greatest profusion at all times, ex-

i38 | ELOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

eept in the very dead of winter, and will grow almost
m any soil or situation.

Kelreuteria paniculata, Japan bladder tree, or.
Keelreterius. This is another hardy shrub from Ja-
pan. It. has long racemes of flowers, succeeded by
bladder-like fruit, and is worthy of cultivation in
every good collection.

Ligustrum vulgare, virens. Large European Pri-
vit, a very handsome evergreen shrub, flowering in
great profusion, and succeeded by bunches of black
round berries. [t bears clipping well, and is there-
fore weil calculated for hedges, or to enclose orna-
mental plantations. “It grows quick, and is well
adapted to our climate, and when planted ina hedge
row, and kept clipped, it makes a beautiful hedge,
and ought to be in more general use.

Philadelphus coronarius, or common syringo, is ve-
ry Ornamental, producing its sweet scented flowers
early, and in abundance, and also sweet scented Phil-
adelphus inodorous, and P. grandiflorus, Garland Sy-
ringo, both natives of the southern states, but quite
hardy here. The flowers are large, and they keep
their flowering for several months in wreaths or
garlands; it is well calculated for the centre row,
and also to hide unsightly objects. It has a beau-
tiful effect when mixed with monthly Boag
kle, &c.

Persica, or Amygdalus Persica, fl. rosea pleno.—
The double flowering Peach is very beautiful in
shrubberies. . It sometimes bears fruit, but it is cul-
tivated entirely for its beautiful. blossoms. A few .
trees also of the Chinese double flowering Apple,
Pyrus.spectabilis, have also a beautiful effect for the
same purpose.

Rhus cotinus, Venetian sumach, Aaron’s beard,
sometimes called fringe tree, is a fine shrub, calcu-
lated for the centre of the clump or shrubbery. Its

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 139

large branches of fringe remaining all summer, give
it a curious and striking effect.

Ribes Missouriensis, or Missouri currant; there
are two species of this very ornamental shrub from
Missouri, introduced by Lewis and Clarke ; they
are quite hardy, and flower in great profusion.

Robinia glutinosa, and Robina hispida, the former
a pretty large shrub, with large bunches of flowers
in great abundance, the other a smaller shrub ; they
are both of them worthy of a place in all large col-
lections.

Sorbus aucuparia, Mountain ash, or Roan tree.—
This is a very beautiful shrub of the larger size ; the
leaves are ornamental ; the flowers and fruit, which
are produced in large bunches, are beautiful; the
fruit remains till late in the autumn ; it is a native
of Europe.

Sorbus Canadensis. This is a native of our north-
ern frontiers and mountains; it does not grow as
large as the former; the berries are smaller and
red, the former larger and of an orange colour, but
otherwise much resemble it. |

Spartium junceum, and Genista, two or three spe-
cies of broom, with bunches of yellow flowers in
very great profusion ; the Genista or Spanish broom
has white flowers, is also very pretty, but not quite
so hardy as the former.

Symphoria racemosa, or snow-berry, sometimes
called snow-apple, a pretty little shrub ; the bunches
of wax-like white berries which it produces during
‘the whole summer, give it a beautiful appearance.

Syringa vulgaris, or common Lilac, is well known
to all, and needs no comment. The white variety
not quite so common—they are only fit for outside
plantings, as they sucker very freely, and soon
make themselves common.

13

140 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

Syringa Persica, or Persian lilac, is a delicate
low shrub the flowers very abundant, and the leaves
small and delicate. There are two varieties of the
Persian lilac; the white flowering, and the blue or
purple flowering. i

The Chinese cut leaved lilac is very curious ; the
leaves are cut like Parsley, the flowers growing in
longer racemes than the former. Siberian, or large
Persian lilac. The bunches of flowers are very
large, and continue in season a long time after the
common lilac.

Rosa, or roses, a pretty numerous variety .of
them ; some reckon five or six hundred kinds. They
are accounted the most beautiful of Flora’s produc-
tions. Perhaps a very handsome collection might
be made of about 50 of the best sorts, which, by
taking said quantity, I suppose might be obtained
at about 50 cents each under name ; and generally
a fine collection un-named at half that amount. No
good garden or shrubbery can be without them.

Tamarix Galica, or French tamarix, and the
Tamarix Germanica, German tamarix, are two pret-.
ty shrubs, the leaves and branches are small and
slender, producing quantities of beautiful flowers,
and form a very striking contrast to the other part
of the shrubbery.

Viburnum opulus, or Guilder rose, otherwise call-
ed Snow-ball, is a very showy shrub, with large
balls of snow white flowers in the greatest profu-
sion ; and is indispensably necessary to every shrub-
bery. |

Vitex agnus castus, or Chaste tree, a pretty and
singular shrub, flowering the most part of the sum-
mer. 7

~ Bignonia radicans, or trumpet creeper, with
bunches of red trumpet flowers, large and showy.

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 14]

Bignonia grandiflora, much like the former in ha-
bit and appearance, but the flowers are much larg-
er. It is said to be a native of China, and the for-
mer a native of thiscountry. They are both per-
fectly hardy, and will climb up brick work or wood-
en fences without any assistance.

Clematis, or Virgin’s Bower. There are several
species, some of them tender, or not sufficiently
hardy for our severe winters without protection.
The Clematis Virginica, Viorna, Viticella, and Vital-
ba, are perfectly hardy. Glycine Sinensis, or Wis-
taria Sinensis, is a handsome China creeper of re-
cent introduction from China, and is not yet com-
mon in our nurseries. It is a beautiful vine, run-
ning to a great height, and loaded with long ra-
cemes of purple flowers, and is highly spoken of in
the Gardener’s Magazine.

American glycine frutescens, or Wistaria frutescens.
This beautiful brother of the Chinese kind, is a na-
tive of our Southern states, grows much in the
same way as the other, and perhaps not inferior.
Although this fine creeper has been long known in
England, we have not heard much about it by En-
glish writers; the conclusion seems to be that it
does not flower wellin England. In fact, none of
our southern plants do well in England, while those
from China do very wel!—here however, it is quite
the reverse. I have the Chinese Wistaria Sinenses
from 15 to 20 feet long, andthe American Wistaria
about the same height. The Chinese does not look
so vigorous and green as his American brother—
The American Wistaria should be planted in every
garden with other creepers, or run up the trees in
shrubberies, according to its natural disposition.

Lonicera, comprehending all the fine sweet scen-
ted honeysuckles ; of the Italian kinds, the month-
ly honeysuckle is decidedly superior, continuing to

142 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

flower all through the summer, until late in the
fall, and very fragrant. Some of the other Euro-
pean kinds may be occasionally introduced in large
shrubberies—two or three American kinds deserve
particular notice.

Lonicera semper virens, or Cora] trumpet monthly
honeysuckle, is extremely beautiful, flowering du-
ring the whole of the summer, with its thousands of
scarlet bunches. It ts, however, destitute of scent,
Lonicera Fraseri, also an American; the flowers
are like the other kind in almost every particular,
except colour, this being a bright yellow.

Lonicera pubescens, or Caprifolium pubescens, alarge
and beautiful honeysuckle from the North-west
coast; the flowers are larger and of a bright copper
color, inclining to orange—they are all perfectly
hardy.

Lonicera flecuosa.—Chinese honeysuckle of late
introduction ; it is perfectly hardy, withstanding our
most severe frosts without the least injury; it isa
very sweet scented honeysuckle, grows rapidly, and
to an immense height. It flowers in pairs and threes
all up the branches, covering the whole plant com-
pletely with flowers. It blossoms spring and fall,
and is a very valuable acquisition to our gardens
and shrubberies.

Lonicera Japonica, or Japan honeysuckle. This
bears flowers in great profusion, which are white,
afterwards becoming ofa light yellow. This is not
so hardy as the former, and requires a little protec-
tion in winter.

I shall only add to the above the running kinds
of roses, although there are many other things which
might be mentioned.

Rosa multiflora, from China, is pretty well known,
bi ba thousands of small double red roses in

unches. It requires a sheltered situation from some

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 143

of our keen northwesters. R. multiflora alba, from
the same country, is of late importation, but as it
increases readily, may be obtained at about the
same price as the former; the bunches of flowers
are white. Rosa Grivellis, a running rose also from
China, the flowers of various colours. Rosa rubi-
folia, Raspberry leaved rose, from our northern fron-
tiers, and extending over the western country; al-
though a single flowering rose, it produces large
bunches of flowers, which are different coloured,

on the same bunch, exactly like the former China
kind, and is another instance of the similarity of
plants, natives of China and our country.

Rosa canina fl. pleno. English double dog rose,
is a very pretty little double rose, and will run to a
great height. Rosa Bansii, Lady Banks’ double
white Chinarunning rose. It runs up, and spreads
much—it may be easily known from others of the ©
running roses, by its being entirely destitute of
prickles. Rosa Noisette, and Champney’s, are said
to have been raised from China seeds in Carolina
—they are not strictly running roses, but as they
grow up tall, are fine ornaments for the shubbery,
flowering during the whole of the summer and fall
in large clusters. The Madeira rose, or double white
cluster, musk—It also flowers all through the sum-
mer and fall months, and is therefore well adapted
for the shrubbery. Rosa Cherokensis, called the
non-descript, or Georgia rose—the flowers are very
large and white, the centre yellow. This is a run-
ning rose, growing very high around trees, &c.

Rosa rubiginosa, or sweet briar, is too well known.
to need description.

Deciduous shrubs may be planted at any time
after they lose their leaves, and before the buds be-
gin to expand in the spring, provided the ground
can be brought into good condition to receive them;

13°

444 MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

the holes should be dug capacious enough to hold
the roots without cramping them, and some earth,
well pulverized must be thrown equally among the
fibres of the roots, which should be well shaken and
trodden down around the plants, until brought te
the level required. Evergreens should be removed
carefully with a ball of earth conneeted with their
roots, and some good mould should be provided to
fill in with.

DIRECTIONS FOR THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Having already prepared sufficient matter for a
book of double the size of the former edition, I am
compelled to be brief in my observations on such
ernamental plants as are generally cultivated in hot
and green-houses. This description of plants em-
braces those which are collected from various cli-
mates, and thrive best ina temperature and soil si-
milar to that in which nature first produced them :
hence they who propagate exotic plants, must pro-
vide suitable composts, and also separate depart-
ments, where the different degrees of heat may be
kept up, according to their nature and description.
Some of these are raised from seed sown in the
spring, others by layers, suckers, and offsets de-
tached from the old plants, and many by slips and
cuttings planted at different seasons of the year, ac-
cording to the varied natures and state of the plants.
Many kinds require the aid of glass coverings and
bottom heat, created by fresh horse dung, tan, &c.

Were I to attempt to give directions for the pro-
pagation of all the varieties of useful and ornamen-
tal exotic plants cultivated in various parts of our
country, it would require an entire volume. The
catalogue of green-house plants alone kept by the.

Ls

‘

MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 145

enterprizing proprietor of the Linnean Botanic Gar-
den at Flushing, occupies fifiy pages of close mat-
ter; it would therefore be impossible to do justice
to the subject, without dividing upwards of twe
thousand varieties of plants into classes, according
to their varied natures, and treating of them under
distinct heads ; I shall therefore not attempt, in this
edition, to write largely on the subject. = = —

In order to render this little work useful to those
who may wish to avail themselves of the pleasure
of nursing some of those beauties of nature in their
own dwelling houses, during the most chilling days
of our severe winters, and to afiord amusement to
the ladies, ata season when our gardens are de-
prived of their loveliest charms, I shall discuss some
essential points connected with the management of
green-house plants, in as explicit a manner as pos-
sible.

The following hints were selected for the first
edition of this work, and appear to the author te
embrace the most important points connected with
the care of plants in the winter season.

The generality of those denominated areens House
plants, and which are ke ‘;i in rooms, should be plac-
ed where ciiey can have the light of the sun, with-
out being exposed to frost. Air, heat, and moisture
are essential to the growth of plants, but these
should be given.in due proportions, according to
circumstances. In frosty weather they should be
kept from the external ait, and watered very spar-
ingly. When water is necessary, it should be ap-
plied in the morning of a mild sunny day. The
plants should be kept free from decayed leaves, and
the earth at the tops of the pots should be some-
times loosened to a moderate depth, and replenished
with a portion of fresh compost. Plants kept in
private houses are often killed with kindness. The

146 MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

temperature of a room in the winter need not be
more than ten degrees above freezing. If plants
are healthy, they may be kept so by attention to the
preceding hints, unhealthiness generally arises
from their being subjected to the extremes of heat,

cold, or moisture, or from total neglect. :

In order that the ideas above advanced may be
duly considered, it may be useful to indulge in a
more minute description of the nature of plants, and
to show in what manner the elements operate upon
them. Itis an acknowledged fact, that the roots
of plants require moisture, and therefore penetrate
the earth in search of it, and thet the plants them-
selves are greatly nourished by air, and spread their
branches and leaves to catch as much as possible its
enlivening influence. Light also is so far essential,
that there can be no colour without it ; witness the
blanching of celery and endive, where the partsde- |
- prived of light become white ; place a plant in al-
most any situation, it will invariably show a ten-
dency to turn to the light; the sun-flower isa strik-
ing example of this singular fact. As the leaves
supply the plant with air, and the fibres of the roots
supply it with nourishment, to strip off the leaves,
or destroy the fibres, is to deprive it of part of its
means of support. Having shown that air and
water are essential to vegetation, and light to its
colour, experience shows us that heat, in a greater
or less degree, is not less necessary to the growth
of plants; it is therefore requisite, that in taking
plants into our rooms, we should attend to these
particulars.

The internal structure of plants is composed of
minute and imperceptible pores, which serve the
game important purpose in the vegetable as veins
in the animal system; they convey the circulation
of the sap in the former, ..s the veins do that of the

MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 147

blood in the latter ; but itis by no means settled as
yet by physiologists how the food of plants is taken
up into the system and converted into their consti-
tuent parts.

From the foregoing considerations and facts, it is
evident, that, as air, heat, and moisture are each es-
sential to vegetation, that water should only be given
in proportion as heat and air are attainable. In the
summer season green-house plants may be exposed.
to the open air, from the early part of May, until
the end of September, by being placed on the
ledges of windows, or on a stand erected for the pur-
pose, or in the absence of a nursery bed of flower-
ing plants, they may be introduced into the regu-
lar flower beds, to supply the place of such plants as
may wither and die in course of the summer, by
being turned out of the pots and planted, or plung-
ed in the earth with the pots.

In the heat of the summer season, plants gene-
rally require water every evening, and in the ab-
sence of dews, the earth about their roots may some-
times need a little early in the morning; but expe-
rience shews, that the roots of plants more frequent-
ly get injured from being soddenec in water, than
from being kept moderately dry. Having before
intimated that exotic plants will generally thrive
best in a temperature and soil similar to that in
which nature first produced them, it may be neces-
sary to remind the reader, that we have the means
of attaining suitable composts from our own soils,
and from sand, decayed leaves, rotten dung, and
various kinds of peat, bog, and rock mould; these.
ingredients being judiciously mixed and prepared,
may be suited to all the various kinds of plants, and

should be used as occasion reyuires. As the roots
of plants make considerable growth in the course
of a summer, it will be necessary to examine them

148 MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS-

by turning them out of the pots, this may be done
early in September, at which time all matted and
decayed roots should be pared off, and the plants
shifted into larger pots which being filled with suit-
able compost, and watered, will be ready to be re-
moved into the house on the approach of cold nights,
which is generally early in October.

Green-house plants require an annual pruning,
and should be occasionally headed down, in order
that their size and appearance may be improved ; .
the best time for doing this is soon after they have
done flowering, and while they are in a growing
state. Having endeavoured to furnish my readers
with the artificial means of preserving tender plants
in a climate foreign to that which nature has
provided for them; I shall call their attention to
another class of plants well calculated for the win-
dows of a house. |

I allude to the many beautiful varieties of the
Chinese Chrysanthemum; these are frequently
cultivated in pots, and may be taken from the ground
and put into pots even when in full flower without
injury, and when the bloom is over, returned to the
garden ; and in the spring following, they will throw
up an abundance of suckers. |

The following list taken from Mr. Prince’s cata-
Jogue, consists of some of the best varieties of the
Chrysanthemum, and are entitled to a place in eve-
ry flower garden. In October and November, when
the waning year has left our gardens comparative-
ly cheerless, these with their various colours, deck
them out in gaiety, and prolong the semblance of
summer. They are perfectly hardy and will brave
our severest winters,

MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 149

Chrysanthemum sinense. —

1 White quilled: 26 Quilled light purple
2 Pale buff, or orange 27 Expanded do. do.
3 Changeable, red and orange | 28 Quilled yeilow
flower on the same plant. 29 Double Indian yellow, superb
4 Purple 30 Double Indian white, supers
_ 5 Lilac quilled 31 Brown purple

- 6 Rose coloured, or pink
7 Lilac and white, changeable ;
the flowers vary to lilac, to
white with a purple centre, and
to pure white. 36 Park’s sniall yellow, beauti-
8 Dark crimson, or Spanish ful
brown 37 Quilled salmon
9 Straw coloured quilled 38 Semidouble quilled pale o-
10 Golden yellow range
11 Tasselled white 39 ‘Two coloured red
12 Superb do. 40 Curled buff, or salmon
13 Semidouble quilled do. 41 Large lilac
14 Paper do. 42 Late pale purple
15 Quilled flame yellow 43 {wo coloured incurved
16 Sulphur do. 44 Blush rannnculus
17 Superb clustered do. 45 Late quilled purple
18 Small do. 46 Tasselied lilac
19 Single flame yeilow 47 'Tasselled yellow
20 Quilled pink 48 Yellow waratah
21 Semidouble quilled do. 4§ Pale lilac
22 Quilled orange 50 Large buff, superb
23 Semidouble quilled do. 51 Barclay’s
24 Early crimson 52 Aiton’s
25 Curled lilac | 53 Sabine’s
Chrysanthemums may be propagated from seed
and cuttings, and each plant will produce several
suckers, which may be separated every spring ; as
the flowers are liable to be injured by the rain in
autumn, it is advisable to take up a few plants and
place them ina light room or green-house, which
will preserve them for some time. .
Many people keep their late blooming plants in
the house through the winter ; this is a bad prac-
tice, as the heat and want of air will exhaust or de-
stroy the plants altogether. If the flowers fade be-
fore hard frost prevails, it is best either to plunge
the pots into the ground with the plants, or turn

32 Early blush
33 Golden lotus
34 Quilled purple
35 Starry purple

150 MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

them out of the pots, and plant them with the balls
of earth entire into the borders of the flower garden.
Early in May, such as may be intended for potting
the ensuing season, should be divided at the roots,
if not potted, and planted, each kind separate. One
single stem is sufficient fora moderate sized pot, if
the object be to have bushy plants; but if showy
plants are desired, one of each of the varied colours
may be selected for each pot, which should be suffi-
ciently capacious to hold them without crowding
them, as this will cause the plants ta grow weak and
slender. If this happens early in the summer, a
stocky growth may be promoted by clipping the
tops, and they will bloom in great perfection at the
usual season.

CALENDAR AND INDEX.

Tue object of this Calendar, is to assist the memory
of the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that
he may find employment in some of the departments of
gardening in every month of the year. The figures
refer to the pages in which further directions may be
found, relative to the operations adverted to.

JANUARY.

It is customary at this season of the year, witli all
prudent men, to look around them, and endeavour to as-
certain the results of their industry throughout the past
year, in order to make improved arrangements for the
future. The mere gardener, having no complicated
accounts to adjust, may occupy his time to valuable pur-
poses. If he be not a book-reader, he should-be a
book-keeper, (see page 2,) and he should frequently take
a survey of his former practices and those of his acquain-
tance, with a view to improve on every thing he has
done, or seen done. If he consult writers on Horticul-
ture, he should do as the author has endeavoured to do
in preparing this little work for the press; not adopt
the mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in speculative
ideas, nor even tread in the steps of others, but endea-
vour to erect his edifice of knowledge upon a good
settled foundation. In all his pursuits, whether he at-
tempts to follow the example of practical and exempla-_
ry men, hear lectures, or consult any authors on the
subject, he should do as every sensible m:n does at his
daily meals, take that which suits him best, and ieave
the residue for others. If this little work should be

14

152 CALENDAR AND INDEX.
considered. worth an annual perusal, he may read the
general remarks in this month, (January,) and make a
memorandum of such things as may be obtained at a
leisure time, in preference to driving it off tillit is want-
ed. I shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as
an index to the book, and in pursuit of my object, shall
begin at page | of the general remarks, which suggests,
that if aman has a garden to form, he will require fenc-
ing materials. If these should be already at hand, every
gardener should provide manures, ingredients for the
destruction of insects, drilling machines and other tools,
polesor rods for the support of such Beans, Peas, or oth-
er climbing plants which he may intend to cultivate ; and
if he intend to use hut beds, or forcing frames, he should
make arrangements to get compost and heating materi-
als, in time for the work to be performed in the next
month. If he depends on this book for information,
he may read the general remarks from page 1 to 10,
and also page 86, on Forcing Vegetables.

FEBRUARY.

Although stern winter with its ice bound chains,
exerts its influence over the soil, the gardener may
find employment preparatory to commencing his opera~
tions of ploughing and planting, as the year progresses.
Perhaps the most important business at this season, is to
collect plenty of manure; next to this, the gardener,
who intends to raise early plants for forcing or other-
wise, should see that his hot bed frames are in good re-
pair and ready for use ; he should also repair his sashes,
and make straw mats to cover them with. In prepar-
ing dung or other heating materials for hot beds, or
forcing pits, let it be kept secure from heavy falls of
snow or rain, and frequently turned over preparatory to
its being made into abed. With a view to give all at-
tention to culture as the season advances, the gardener
should look over his hardy fruit trees, and hardy vines,
and commence pruning them, by cutting out all dead
and superfluous branches ; he may also clean trees from

hd

CALENDAR AND INDEX. | 153

moss and canker, and search for the nests of insects,
with a view to destroy them while in a torpid state, to
prevent their spreading. If he has trellises, or any im-
plements of husbandry out of repair, he should embrace
the most favorable opportunities of putting them in
good condition, and of repairing his fences, &c.

Previous to making hot beds, select a situation that
is well protected by a close fence or wall, and not in
any way connected with any building calculated to har-
bour rats, mice, moles, &c., which are very apt to take
up their abode in warm dung, to the great injury and
sometimes destruction of ihe beds. {tis necessary that
the foundation for the beds be drily situated, and not
liable to be inundated with water from melting snow,
&c. When all is prepared as directed, page 85 to 89,
begin to sow Cabbage, Egg-plant, Lettuce, and Tomato
seed, 85; force Asparagus, 90; Kidney Beans, 92;
Cucumbers, 94; plant Peas, 99; Potatoes, 100; sow
Radish seed, 101. In cold beds well protected, plant
Broad Beans, 20 and 92; sow Cabbage seed, 31.

After the seeds are sown, the beds will require con-
stant attention ; cover up well in cold nights, and give
air at all opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat
in the beds, as directed under the different heads, from
page 85 to 100. If the heat be excessive, it must be
decreased as directed, page 89, and if it should become
necessary to let off steam in cold weather, care must be:
taken to cover the apertures sufficiently to keep out
frosty air.

MARCH.

This month affords considerable employment to an
industrious gardener. Manure may be drawn on the
ground, and distributed in heaps, ready to spread, see
page 9; and the hot beds and forcing trames will re-
quire constant attention. Cover up warmin cold nights,
and give additional air as the season progresses, to pre-
vent the planis growing weak, taking care to regulate
the heat as directed for the different kinds of vegetables.

1 BA CALENDAR AND INDEX.

If any additional frames are to be put down this month,
either for forcing or forwarding vegetables, they should
be attended to in time as directed.

In order to afford time for cultivating the soil as the
weather moderates, the gardener should proceed with
his basiness of pruning and cleaning fruit trees, shrubs,
&c. at all opportunities ; and if any removal be neces-
sary, or fresh trees, shrubs, vines, &c. are required,
these things should be obtained : ud planted this month
if possible. Begin the work of the kitchen garden as
soon as the earth can be brought into good condition,
and transplant hardy Lettuce plants, 45; dress Arti-
choke beds, 14; Asparagus, 18; Rhubarb, 60; Sea-
Kale, 64; and preparé to make new plantations of
these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 19 and 92
Beet seed, 24; plant Cauliflower, plants under hand-
glasses, 29 and 93; sow Cabbage seed, 31 and 85;
Carrot, 34; Celery, 353; plant Chives, 38; Cucum-
ber, 94; sow Egg plant seed, 41; Garden Burnet, 43 ;
Leek, 44; Lettuce, 45; plant Melon seed, 98; sow Onion,
49 ; Parsley and Parsnip, 51; Pepper, 52; plant Peas,
533; Potatoes, 100; sow Radish seed, 57; plant Ro-
cambole, 58; Rhubarb, 59; Salsify, 61; Scorzonera,
62; Sea-Kale, 63; Skirret, 66; sow Spinach seed;
67: Tomato, 69 nad 85 ; Turnip seed, 70; prepare to
make Hop plantations, 73; Horseradish, 78 ; Herbs,
79. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with’ the har-
diest kinds; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c.,
to produce greens early for the table. Towards the
end of the month, the covering may be taken from har-
dy flowering plants, and the beds aud borders dressed,
at the same time, clip edgings, of box, &c.; clean, re-
lay, or make new gravel walks, 112; prune and trans-
plant flowering shrubs and hardy herbaceous plants, and
sow flower seeds of the hardy kinds, 116; attend to and
turn over compost heaps.

APRIL.

This is the most important month in the year for
oarden operations. Finish as early as possible the

CALENDAR AND INDEX. 155

plantiag of esculents for seed, and see that all plants
of the same genus are remote from each other, or they
will adulterate. All the soil of a garden should be dug
or ploughed this month if possible, and some of the early
crops sown last month will require hoeing and weeding.

If not done last month, make plantations of Arti-
chokes, 11; Asparagus, 15; Bezns, vicia faba, 19;
towards the end of the month, plant Beans, Phaseolus,
22 and 23; plant Beet seed, 24; sow late kinds of
Broccoli seed, 27; seed of Cabbage for summer use,
31; Cardoon, 34; plant Carrot and Celery, 35; Cher-
vil and Chives, 38; sow Cress seed, 39; plant Cu-
cumber, 97; sow Endive, 42; Garden Burnet, 43 ;
plant Indian Corn, 43; sow Leek and Lettuce seed, 44;
plant Melon, 98; sow Mustard seed, 48; plant Nas-
turtium, 48 ; sow Onion seed, 49; Parsley and Pars-
nip, 513; plant Peas, 53; Potatoes, 55; Sweet Pota-
toes and Pumpkins, 56 ; Patience Dock, 57 ; sow Rad-
ish seed, 57; plant Rocambole, 58; Rhubarb, 59;
Salsafy, 61; Scorzonera, 62; Sea-Kale, 63; sow Sor-
rel and Skirret, 66; Spinach, 67; plant Squash, 68;
sow Turnip seed for summer use, 70; Navet, or French
Turnip, variety esculenta, 33; make Hop plantations,
73; Horseradish, 78; Herbs, 79.

Besides the work of sowing and planting the various
kinds of seeds above enumerated, all the strongest
plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be
taken from the hot beds and frames, and transplanted
into the regular beds in the open garden. All kinds of
flower seeds, except the very tender annuals, may be
sown this month, 116 and 120, and the hardiest green-
house plants may be exposed to the open air in mild
weather. Attend to such other business in this depart-
ment as was left undone last month, 112, and see that
the garden be kept neat and free from weeds. Finish
planting fruit trees, and attend to the Strawberry beds,
Xe.

‘t4*

156 CALENDAR AND INDEX-

MAY.

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should
be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of
insects.. Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c.
near fruit trees, and sow ashes over the ground. Attend
to plantations of Cabbages, Cauliflower, &c.; hoe them
trequently, and draw earth up to their stems ; look out
for and destroy grub-worms, caterpillars, and other in-
sects, 8; weed and thin the early plantings of Beets,
Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c., and destroy weeds, to
prevent their seeding inthe ground. Plant and sow
Such kinds of seeds as. were omitted last month, and
transplant Cabbages, Egg-plants, Lettuce, Tomatoes,
&c. from the hot heds and warm borders. Plant Beans,
22 and 23; Beet, 24; sow RBorecole and Brussels
Sprout seed, 25 ; Broccoli, 27 and 28 ; Cauliflower, 30;
Cabbage seed, 32; Carrot, 34; Cress, 39; plant Cu-
cumbers, 40; sow Endive seed, 42 ; plant Indian Corn,
43; Melon, 46; Water Melon, 47; sow Mustard seed,
48; plant Nasturtiums, 48; Okra, 49; Pepper, 52;
plant Peas, 54; Potatves, 55; Potato, sweet, 56;
Pumpkins, 56; sow Radish seed, 57; Sorrel, 66;
plant New Zealand Spinach, 68 ; Squash’ and Tomato,
69. In the early part of this month, finish sowing all
kinds of Aromatic, Pot, Sweet, and Medicina! Herbs,
79 and 81. Some ofthe old hot beds may be spawned
for Mushrooms, but it is best to form new ones. Un-
cover productive beds once a week, and gather the pro-
duce; clear them of weeds and wet litter, and put a Jit-
tle dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare fresh
spawn, &c., 103 to 109; sow all kinds of Flower seeds
in the early part of the month, 116 and 120; mow
lawns and grass walks, destroy weeds, remove decayed
plants, support tall flowering plants, 112; attend to
zreen-house plants, and water them frequently.

Grape vines and other choice trained fruits should be
attended to this month. Divest them of all useless and
unhealthy shoots. If Apricot trees set too eh the
fruit should be thinned.

NS

CALENDAR AND INDEX. 15

JUNE.

The principal sowing seasons for general crops may
be considered as past, but there are many kinds of seeds
which may be sown this month; and the gardener should
ascertain the success of his former plantings, in order to
make up any deficiencies from failures, before the sea-
son be too far advanced. By this time, some of the
early crops will be cleared off, and such ground as was
-manured for the early crops of Lettuce, Radishes, Spi-
nach, &c., will be excelleut for late Beets and Carrots.
Hoe and thin out all standing crops, and clean vacant
ground, to prevent weeds from running to seed. If the
ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be beneficial. Use
means to destroy insects; read from page 4 to 10 for
information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 22 ;
Beet seed, 24. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cau-
iiflower, Cabbage, &c. failed last month, sow again early
this month. Water the beds frequently, and sow to-
bacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recom-
mended, page 7. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c.
for summer use; transplant Cardoons, 34; sow Carrot
seed in drills, 34; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 40;
sow Endive seed, 42; plant Indian Corn, 43; trans-
plant Leeks, 44; plant Peas, soak them first five or six
hours in water, 54; plant Potatoes, 55 ; Pumpkin seed,
56; sow Black Radish seed, 58; sow Ruta Baga, 72.
As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut ona
dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for winter
use, 81. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when
they have reached the top, nip off the tops, to strengthen
the stems, 75. Give frequent watering to the Flower
beds; cut down dead flower stalks ; remove decayed
plants, and replace them with vigorous ones from the
nursery bed, 112 ; transplant annual flower plants into
the regular beds, and on the bulbous beds, 111 and 116.
Trees on espaliers now require attention ; cut off such
superfluous slioots as are not required to be trained in,
leaving well placed middle sized shoots, to supply the
place‘of any old branches that may be thought neces-

158 CALENDAR AND INDEX.

sary to cut away. Grape vines should be looked over
every week. Cut off all the tendrils and useless young
shoots, and stop the shoots before the bunches of fruit.
‘Train up the shoots for bearing next season, and to a
proper length, before you stop them.

JULY.

This is a very important month for transplanting
Cabbage Cardoon, Celery, Endive, Leek plants, &c.
for full autumn crops. Prepare trenches for the Cele-
ry plants before-hand, in order that they may be ready
to catch the rain. Leeks may be transplanted in dry
weather by first steeping the roots in mud, and Cab-
bage plants too, if there be the Jeast damp in the ground
when its fresh turned over. If Cardoons or Celery be
planted in dry weather, the trenches must be shaded
with boards. As grub worms aie generally numerous
early in this month; plant with caution, try a few Cab-
bage plants first, and if none are eaten off you may ven-
ture to proceed, and by the middle of this month, the
danger is generally over.

lf Beets and Carrots have failed, the seed may pro-
duce. good roots by autumn, if planted early in this
month ; plant Beans, 22 ; Cabbage seed may be sown
now for Collards, 33; plant Cucumber seed for pick-
fers, 40;sow Endive seed, and transplant the former sow-
ing, 42; if Peas be planted now, they should be soaked
in soft water five orsix hours previous, 54; Potatoes may
be planted early in this month,55; and Pumpkins if
not done last month. Sow black Spanish Radish seed
in drills, 58; Sow Turnip rooted Cabbage seed or Na-
vet, 33 ; Thisis a good season for Ruta Baga or Rus-
sian Turnip, 73; and the common kinds of Turnip seed
may be sown towards the end of this month, 70. Attend
to plantations of Hops, 75; whatever herbs mag be re-
quired for winter use, should be cut off and dried as
they come into flower, Burnet, Chervil, Fennel, Mint,
Parsley, Sweet Marjorum, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter
and Summer Savory, may all be cut this month.

CALENDAR AND INDEX. 159

The flower garden should be kept weeded and wa-
tered, and the seeds gathere:l as they ripen; apply neat
rods to the tall growing and running kinds of plants ;
such hardy bulbs as may require to be removed, may
be taken up as the tops wither, after which, the offsets
may be parted off, and both these and the parent bulbs
dried, for planting in autumn, 128; Roll gravel walks
and attend to the lawns, edgings, &c., 112. Look over
your fruit trees and grape vines; stop the shoots -be-
fore the bunches of fruit, and train up such shoots as are
reserved for bearing next year. Nip off curled and
dead leaves and destroy insects.

AUGUST.

The planting season being nearly over, now is the
time to hoe around the plants and clear the ground of
weeds and stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground rea-
dy for fall Turnips, Spinach, Shallot, Fetticus, &c. As
the ground for the latter crops may require manure, it
will be greatly improved if ploughed before the manure
is drawn on, which should be afterwards spread and
ploughed under.

Plant Beans for picklers, 22; sow Cabbage seed for
Collards, 33 ; earth up Cardoons, 34; do. Celery, 37;
sow Corn Salud or Fetticus seed, 39 ; the early kinds
of Cucumber may produce picklers if planted early in
this month, 41; transplant Endive and prepare to blanch
the early plantings, 42 ; Peas may be planted thus late
if desired, 54; sow black Radish seed, 58 ; prepare for
planting Shallots by the end of the month, 67; sow
Turnip seed for full crops, 71; attend to such herbs as
were not gathered last month, cut off and dry Sage, and
otker late herbs. Hops will be ripe this month; choose
a dry season for gathering them and attend to them as
directed, page 75 ; this is a good season for preparing
to make Mushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars or pits :
if the materials be collected this month, indigenous
spawn may be collected next, but those that can pro-
cure spawn may make the beds at any time, or they

160 CALENDAR AND INDEX.

may pursue Mr. Nichols’ plan, 107 ; continue to gath-
er seeds of all kinds as they ripen and clear the ground
ready for late crops of Spinach, &c.

If the weather be dry, such flowering shrubs as were
planted in the spring should be watered occasionally.
Cut down all decayed stalks as soon as the seed be
gathered, and pull up annuals as they cease to flower.
Mow grass walks and lawns, and attend to the edgings,
&c. The Grapes against south walls will now be ma-
turing fast; look them over frequently, and stop the
shoots that require it. If the weather be dry, trees
planted in the spring preceding, should be watered, and
such other trees as may be in very light ground.

SEPTEMBER.

Although the sowing season be nearly over, the crops
on the ground require attention constantly. Endive
may still be transplanted fur winter use. Hoe Cab-
bage and other vegetables, and attend to the earthing
of Celery as it progresses in growth. Sow Cauliflower
seed, 29; Cabbage, 31; Corn Salad or Fetticus, 39 ;
Cress every ten days for a Salad ; sow Mustard, Rape,
&c. for the same purpose ; sow Lettuce seed, 44; Onion
to stand the winter, 50; Radish seed for fall use, 58 ;
plant Shallots, 67 ; sow Spinach seed every week or ten
days, 68; Turnips will sometimes come to maturity if
the seeds be sown the early part of this month,

Continue to gather, dry and pack Hops as they ri-
pen, 76; also all aromatic sweet and medicinal herbs,
81; this is a good season to make Mushroom beds in
sheltered situations ; they may be spawned with indige-
nous or artificial spawn, as may be most convenient.
For directions to preserve spawn, &c. see page 105.

This is a good season to increase all kinds of herba-
ceous plants by parting the roots; and the perennial and
biennial flower plants, raised from seed, may be planted
inthe flower borders in cloudy or wet weather, 121;
flowering and evergreen shrubs may also be transplan-
ted with care; water them immediately after planting.

CALENDAR AND INDEX. 161

Plantations of S'rawberries may be made this month,
either with runners or seedling plants. Protect your
Grapes and other fruit from wasps and other insects;
either decoy them with honey or sugared water, or hang
nets over them; some are at the expense of having the
bunches put into crape or paper bags.

OCTOBER.

The principal winter crops being planted, it will be
necessary to prepare for maturing and gathering some
of the fall crops. Weed out Feiticus, Spinach, &c.
Hoe, and earth up Celery, do 1 in dry weather, and not
even while the dew is on it, 37; Asparagus, Sea Kale
Skirret, and Dill seed may be sown this month. To-
wards the end of the month, frames must be provided
for the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cab-
bage and Cauliflower plants as were raised from seed
sown last month. Begin to dig and secure all kinds of
vegetables soon enough to get the whole placed away
before the end of the next month. Take up Potatoes
and bury them in graves so as to secure them from wet
and frost, or put them in a warm cellar. Proceed to
take up other roots; begin with the tenderest kinds,
or do that which is required to be done in dry weather
while it isso. Collect Pumpkins and Winter Squash-
es, and expose them to the sun and air on a dry bench,
or ledge, before they are stowed away. Dig up Beets
and secure them in graves, or pack them in sand ina
cellar. -

Attend to the different kinds of herbs, 81; prune
flowering shrubs, and make new plantations of them.
Protect tender exotic plants in the early part of this
month. Prune Gooseberry and Currant bushes, and
make plantations of them, and Raspberries towards the
end of the month. |

All the old branches which produced fruit last sum-
mer, may now be cut out of your Raspberry planta-
tions.

Prepare to plant all the hardy kinds of bulbous flow-

362 CALENDAR AND INDEX.

er roots, and take up, and secure, Dahlias, Tuberoses,
and other tender roots, &c.

NOVEMBER,

Endeavour to avoid having your garden products
frozen fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to
secure them; in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and
as many Parsnips, Skirret and Salsafy roots as will be
required fur winter use, and pack them close together
in graves; give them a coat of straw, and afterwards
heap on es much earth as will keep out the frost, or stow
them ina cellar. ‘Towards the end of the month Tur-
nips may be secured in the same way. Take up Cel-
ery in dry weather, and strike it in close together against
a ridge which should be previously formed ina straight
line about a foot above the level of the surface; throw
up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them about
an inch, and then plant row after row as close and up-
right as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth be-
tween every row to keep the roots and stalks from
touching each other. The whole being covered up
with earth, some long dung or litter may be thrown
over it sufficient to keep out the frost, and by heaping
a good layer of manure against the last row of Celery,
it may be taken ont at any time in-the winter for use.
Some erect a board shed over to preserve it from wet,
or a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. Cab-
bages must be taken up and laid in rows against a
ridge, so as to forma square, compact, close growing
bed, the roots and stems being buried up to the lower
leaves of the Cabbages. The beds may be afterwards
covered with straw, or a temporary shed may be erect-
ed over them. Cabbages will keep for some months in
a cellar, if connected with their roots. For the manage-
ment of Broccoli and Cauliflower, see pages 27 and 93.
Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and Collards, may be ta-
ken up and stowed away like Cabbages. Cardoons
may be laid in like Celery, or preserved in sand in a
cellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close

CALENDAR AND INDEX 163

together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the
lower leaves. If the last row be protected fiom frost
by a coat of stable dung, they can be taken out when
required for use. Corn Salad, Spinach, and Lettuce,
may be protected by a covering of straw, salt hay, or
cedar brush. For the management of Artichoke beds,
see page 13; Asparagus, 17; Rhubarb, 60; Sea-
Kale, 64. —

Cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, or light lit-
ter. Plant Tulips, Hyacinths, and other bulbous flower
roots, see page 123 to 130. ‘Protect all tender plants.
Hardy fruit trees may be planted this month ; lay long
litter round the roots of them, and also of the grape
vines and other tender plants, trees, shrubs, &c.

DECEMBER.

If all was not done as directed last month, there is
now no time to be lost. Every thing that needs pro-
tection should now be attended to, and if the weather
continues open, some of the ground may be ploughed
or trenched, to receive the benefit of winter frosts.
Collect all your pea sticks and bean poles together, and
place them under cover to prevent their rotting. Turn
over compost heaps, and provide manure for another
year. Attend to Mushroom heds, and cover up bulbous
and other roots with leaves.or litter. All kinds of ten-
der plants in pots should be set into frames or pits, and
plunged in old tan or light mould, and in hard frosts,
coverings of mats, straw, &c. may be laid over them.

Collect from heaths and rocks such kinds of earth as
are suitable for different sorts of exetic plants, and ga-
ther leaves of trees of al! sorts, and lay them in heaps.
if you intend to make hot beds of them, they should be
pvt together cry; but if you intend them for compost,
they may be laid together as wet as possible. Protect
the stems of new planted trees. Cover with litter the
roots of grape vines and figs against walls, and cover the
branches with mats, &c. Prune Apple, Pear, Quince,

and other hardy fruit trees ; cut out rotten and decaying

15

164 CALENDAR AND INDEX.

branches. To destroy insects on the fruit trees, and
prevent them from creeping up and breeding on them,
do as follows :

Take a strong knife with a sharp point, and a sharp
hook-like iron made for the purpose; with these scrape
clean off all the moss and outside rough bark, and with
the knife pick out or cut away cankered parts of the
bark and of the wood, in such a slanting manner that
water cannot lodge in the sides of the stems of the trees..
Having cleared the trees in this manner, make up a
mixture of lime, soot and sulphur ; put these ingredients
into a pot or tub, pour boiling water upon them, and
with a stick stir and mix them well together. When
this strong mixture becomes cold, and about the thick-
ness of white-wash, take a brush, dip it in the mixture,
and apply it to the stems and the large branches of the
trees, dabbing it well into the hollow parts of the bark,
The pruning of hardy fruit trees and hardy shrubs may
be performed at all favourable opportunities through
the winter.

Win a) *
Lal
nN

ag Opi Pad?
Ned

lee coe,
PT Ra ood

rly

APPENDIX.

GENERAL. OBSERVATIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN
AND ORCHARD.

In my preltmimary observations on the subjects I
have hitherto treated on, Iam aware that it may appear
to some, that I have not safficiently urged the importance
of a judicious selection of situation, exposure, aspect, soil,
&c. My object in not insisting on a strict attention to
these important points was, because I know that, though
good land is abunaant in this extensive country, it is
impossible for every one to choose for himself; and
rather than any disadvant‘ges in these respects, should
discourage proprietors of land from attempting to raise
garden products, so necessary to the comfort and conve-
nience of every family, I have endeavoured to show
them how to use to advantage whatever land may sur-
round their places of abode. As however some have a
choice, it may be necessary to offer some further re-
marks on the subject.

The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should
be one that has the advantage of a free circulation of
air, and is well exposed to the south, also to incline a
little to the east, and south-west. . When the situation
is low and close, the trees are very liable to become
mossy, which always injures them by closing up the
pores of the wood; they are also more liable to be af-

. 16

166 APPENDIX.

fected by blight. Although having an Orchard closely
pent up by trees, &c. is injurious, nevertheless a screen
of forest trees, at such a distance from the fruit trees as
that the latter will not be shaded by them, is of very
great service in protecting the trees in spring from se-
vere cold winds. A good strong loamy soil, not too re-
tentive of moisture, to the depth of thirty inches or three
feet, is most suitable for an Orchard. Great attention
must be paid to the substratum so that the ground is
well drained, for if the top soil be ever so good and the
bottom be wet, itis a very rare case to find that the
trees will prosper for many years, before they begin to
be diseased and go to decay. As it is so indispensably —
necessary to the success of fruit trees that the bottom be
dry, if it be not saaaaanes so, it must be made so, by
judicious draining.

When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by
draining, it must be done for some time before the trees
are to be planted. In performing this work, the ground
must be trenched, and when tlie trench is open, stones
or brick bats, &c. must be laid over the bottom to the
thickness of six inches, a little coal ashes or small gra-
vel must be sprinkled over the top of the stones, &c.,
and then the surface be gently rolled. Also drains may
be made in different directions so that any excess of
moisture can be taken entirely away from the ground.

It is well known to most cultivators that exposure of
soils to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is ex-
perienced by ridging and trenching. Where the soil
is stiff and stubborn, small gravel, sand, coal ashes,
lime, light animal and vegetable manure, and other light
composts are very appropriate substances to be appli-
ed, and willif carefully and well worked inio the ground
soon bring it into a proper condition for most purposes.

Previous to laying out an Orchard or Fruit Garden,
the soil should be manured and pulverized to a great
depth. The soil should be sweet, that the nutriment
which the roots receive may be wholesome ; free, that

APPENDIX. 167

they may be at full liberty to range in quest of it; and
rich, that there may be no defect in food.

If Orchards be made from meadows or pasture lands,
the ground should be improved as much as possible by
ma ‘uring, trenching, ploughing, &c. If this is not
done to its full extent, it should be done in strips of at
least six feet in width along where the fruit trees are
to be planted, and at the time of planting, let the holes
be dug somewhat larger than is sufficient to admit the
roots in their natural position, and of sufficient depth
to allow of a foot of rich and well pulverized mould te
be thrown in before the trees are planted. In plant-

ing fruit trees, they should be placed two or three in-
_ ches deeper than they were in the nursery bed, and the
earth intended for filling in, should be enriched and
well pulverized by mixing in some good cld manure,
and if any leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potato
tops, or other refuse ofa farm be attainable, let such be
used around the trees in filling, taking care that the best
pulverized mould be admitted among the fine roots.
The trees in planting should be kept at ease and seve-
ral times shaken, so as to cause an equal distribution of
the finer particles of earth to be connected with the
small fibres of the roots; and when completeiy levelled,
let the ground be well trodden down and moderately
watered, which should be repeated oceasionally after
spring planting, if the weather should prove dry.

As some difference of opinion exists among practical
men as to the best time for planting fruit trees, the fol-
lowing extrac: from Mr. Prince’s Treatise on Horticul-
ture is submitted :

“‘ Seasons for transplanting—Spring is the season
when we find the most pleasure in maki~g our rural
improvements, and from this circumstance probably it
has become the general season for planting trees, but
experience has proved the Fall planting to be the most
successful, especially in those parts of the United States
which are subject to droughts, as the trees planted in
autumn suffer little or none from drought when those

168 APPENDIX.

set out in Spring often perish in consequence of it.
Notwithstanding, with regard to those fruits that have
been originally brought from warmer climates, such as
the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which aré
natives of Persia, Armenia, &c., it is necessary for us
to consult the operations of climate also; and, from a
consideration of those attendant circumstances, I have
come to the following conclusions. In lecalities south
of New-York, the Fall season is preferable only for the
Apple, Peor, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other
trees of northern latitude; whereas the Spring is to be
preferred ‘or ‘he Peach, Apricot, Nectarine and Al-
mond, which tor the reasons before stated, might, dur-
ing severe winters, suffer from the intensity of the frosts,
Still I do not mean to assert that trees of these kinds
are certain to be injured by the winter, as in very ma~
nv seasons they are not in the least affected ; still they
are exposed to vicissitudes which may or may not occur.
Many gentlemen, however, of excollent judgment, make
their plantations in the fall, which only serve to prove,
that even inthe most intelligent minds, a diversity of
Opinion exists.

“ Trees, &¢. on their arrival at the place of destinas
tion.—As soon as the trees arrive at the place where
they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated
ground, the bundle unpacked, and the roots well wet,
and immediately covered with earth in the trench, ob-
serving to make the earth fine that is spread over them,
so as not toleave vacancies for the admission of air to
dry the roots, it having been found by experience that
the thriftiness of trees, the first year after transplanting
depends much on the fine fibres of the roots being kept
moist, and not suffered to dry from the time they are ta-~
ken up until they are replanted; their increase, there-
fore, must depend principally on the subsequent man-
agement on their arrival at the place of destination: for
if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees are care-
lessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of the
roots must perish, and the trees if they live at all, can-

APPENDIX. 169

not thrive the first season, as they can receive little or
no nourishment until these fibres are replaced.

“ To cause the trees tothrive—T he ground where they
are planted must be kept cultivated; young trees will
not thrive if the grass be permitted te-form a sod around
them, and if it should be necessary to plant them in
grass grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth
mellow and free from grass for three or four feet dis-
tant around them, and every autumn some well rotted
manure should be dug in and around each tree, and
every spring the bodies of the Apple, Pear, Plum, and
Cherry Trees, and others that it is particularly desira-
ble to promote the growth of, should be brushed over
with common soft soap, undiluted with water; this treat-
ment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing the
expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect.
Should the first season after transplanting prove dry,
regular watering will be necessary, as from neglect of
proper attention in this respect, many lose a large por
tion of their trees during a drought.”

Such kinds of fruit trees treated upon in this work as
may require any other than good ordinary soil may be
‘supplied, by judicious management; and if a proper
attention be paid to the situation and aspect in arrang-
inga Fruit Garden, each kind may be so accommoda-
ted as to promote its fruit’s ripening earlier or later than
the ordinary season, by varying the aspect; but Grape
Vines or other tender fruits should not be planted where
the sun’s influence does not fully operate.

Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall,
it is advisable to plant trees of the same kind againt dif-
ferent aspects. Suchas one or two May Duke Cher-
ries against a south aspect, which will ripen earliest,
next, against either an east or west, and lastly, against
a north aspect; by observing this method with Dwarf
Cherries, Plums, Goosberries, Currants, &c. the fruit
will ripen in succession, and thus a supply of them is
considerably lengthened. The early blooming fruit trees
will sometimes need protection in warm aspects; for

16*

170 APPENDIX,

which arrangements may be made by keeping awning,
matting, netting, &c. at hand,to shelter them with in
threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense
heat of the sun afier a frosty night ; this with a sprinkling
of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any se-
rious consequences from slight frost.

Those who may have various soils, should suit them
to the different kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears require
a strong loam, but rather the lightest for the Pear. A-
pricots, Cherries, Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines, a
good deal lighter than for the Apple and Pear; such
fruits as may require peat, bog, or any other extraordi-
nary kinds of earth, will be nvticed as we proceed.

The following observations on Fruit Gardens are tak-
en from the third volume of the New-York Farmer and
Horticultural Reposity. Article 190, page 225, com-
muuicated by an Old Man:

“© A fruit garden in this free country ought to be pro-
tected by nothing less formidable than a pale or picket
fence. It is in vain to think of having good fruit in
small quantities, unless the proprietor can control every
thumb and finger within his grounds, so that his stone-
fruit, more especially, may be fully ripe before it be re-
moved from the tree. Ti is a fact, though it may not be
generally known, that such fruit is often considered
ripe, and eaten, before it has attained one half of its
finest flavour.

A pale or picket fence is a great protection toa fruit
garden; for though some desperadoes may break
through a few times in a sea;on, it will effectually pre-
vent the inroads of the small fry ; and it has another
important advantage: there are men and grown boys
whose business frequently leads them across lots, through
Peach orchards, and directly under Pear trees, that stand
in a common enclosure, but who are too cautious to
scale a garden’ fence, because they have no excuse for
appearing on the inside ; and these constitute a majori-
ty of the prowlers.

Further, those who shoot into a garden at night, ge-

:

APPENDIX. : 171

nerally take aim in the day time. Prevent their obser-
vations, (this fence will in many cases prevent it,) and
the temptation and danger will greatly be lessened. A
good watch dog, however, is in ay cases a valuable aux-
iliary.

There may be many causes wi fruit gardens have
not been more commen among our independent farmers.
I think that more would be done, however, were they
better acquainted with fine fruit. To be fine, it must
be well ae ; and the small part that the owner can
get from a few small Cherry trees, (for instance,) warring
amongst boys and birds, is seldom a fair specimen.
Many such proprietors, though old men, have never eat-
en a ripe May Duke, or a ripe black Tartarian.

The importance of Apples, both for the dessert and
for culinary purposes, is so generally admitted, that to
do without them would be considered a great privation ;
yet one month in summer passes away with a great ma-
jority of. the landholders, destitute of this luxury, while
the yellow harvest, the juneating, the summer rose, and
others, are dropping from the trees of the provident.

Of the white promordian Plum, the precoce de Tours,
and other early kinds, it is enough to ask, who has tast-
ed? and { should be unwilling to say that one in ten of
our inland farmers had ever eaten an Apricot or a Nec-
tarine. Summer Pears are of frequent occurrence, but
of those delicious kinds that grace the dessert in win-
ter, among many, even the existence is not known. 1
am not dealing in fiction. .

And the Apricot isa fine fruit, too little known.
(Where? I write with reference to a certain meridian,
but the remark wiil serve without material error, as the
almanac-makers say, for a region of hundreds of miles
in extent.) Many varieties of this fruit are enumerat-
ed by nurserymen ; and if not quite equal to the peach,
remember ! they ripen one month eariier, and help to
fill a wide space in the circle of summer fruits. The

‘same climate that suits the Peach will mature them on

standard trees in the open ground 1 speak from the

172 APPENDIX.

experience of several years, and find them in every re-
spect as hardy as the peach tree; neither are the blos-
soms more injured by vernal frosts. Like the Plum, the
fruit is subject to the attacks of the curculio, and may
be protected in the same manner. Under our bright
and genial skies, it is to be regretted that we have known
so little of this wholesome and delicious fruit.

The number of trees required in a fruit garden must
depend on particular circumstances. Where the Peach
tree flourishes, the Apricot, Quince, and Nectarine, (that
smooth skin Peach of peculiar flavour,) should be add-
ed; but ina large part of the state of New-York, the
chief dependence must be on Cherries, Plums, and Pears,
including the earlier varieties of tiie Apple. A liberal
allowance for unfavourable vears should be made ; and
let the horticulturist remember, that ‘‘ enough means
a little more” (at one time than another.)

Another consideration in favour of a good sized gar-
den may be presented; in squares, twice the length of
fence, will enclose four times the quantity of ground.

x ¥ To make this plain, let A B C
mere" ~—-D contain half an acre—it may
be too small. Move the fence
CDtoE F,andDBto G H.
You have two acres; and the

== Ge SpeD yan [ black lines show that half the

£
sao memm Ra anane
,

g
feseoseoeneet

fence is made.

At least three modes of ar-.
Lae ranging the trees have been
adopted. One is to !ay out the ground in connected
equilateral triangles, and plant at the angles. This
places the trees more equally over the ground, than
some other. plans, each tree, except those at the sides,
standing in the centre of a hexagon, surrounded by six
trees at equal distances. More trees will stand ona
given piece of ground in this order, with the same dis-
tance between the nearest trees, than if planted in
squares. In the latter form, each tree stands in the

APPENDIX. 173

centre of a square, surrounded by only four others at
equal distances.

The advantage of the hexagonal form is overbalanc-
ed, however, in small enclosures, by unoccupied spaces
at the sides, and the same objection applies to the
quincunx. For this reason, I prefer planting in squares.

The annexed diagram of a garden 100 feet square,
to be planted with trees 20 feet apart, and no tree near-
er to the fence than 10 feet, will present a clear view of
the subject.

In the square, we have 25 spaces of 400 square feet,
each tree standing in the centre.

In the hexagon, or equilateral triangle, cece, ccc, show
unoccupied spaces. The lower row of trees is about
3 feet from the fence. If the enclosure be enlarged,
by removing the side 7 feet out, it will then contain 27
trees.

To lay out the Quincunx, we want 105 feet square;
(an addition of more than one tenth of the quantity
first given,) and it then only contains 25 trees.

Some writers object to manuring fruit trees. I read
one of these last season, just before I started with a
friend on an excursion of nearly 100 miles through the
country; and on passing the various farms, our atten-~
tion was continually turned to the subject. We ob-
served, without exception, that peach trees more espe-
cially, which received the wash of the cow-yard, were
distinguishable by the deep green of their leaves, and

174 APPENDIX,

the greater size of the fruit: and the flavour of these
was unquestionably finer than the peaches from trees
with paler leaves. The juices in fruit undergo an ad-
ditional elaboration; and eminent horticulturists have
believed that no injurious effect is perceptible, even
from such manures as taint the stalks and leaves of cu-
linary vegetables.

In preparing to plant my FRUIT GARDEN, the holes
were ordered to be dug six feet in diameter, and two
feet in depth. The sub-soil was thrown back, and lay-
ers of potato tops, straw, &c. were covered with sods,
or rich mould from the surface. Leaves and decaying
brush from the woods would be a valuable addition.
When treated in this manner, not only are the trees
more likely to grow, but grow so much faster, that they
come sooner into full bearing by several years. This
is not all; the fruit will be finer in both size and fla-
vour,and more especially in seasons of severe drought.”

OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH
FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE.

Much may be written relative to the various diseases
to which fruit trees are liable, and also to the prevention
and destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and in-
sects which very frequently deprive us of the first fruits
of our garden. The preventive operations are those
of the best culture. Fall ploughing, by exposing worms,
grubs, the larve of bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense
frost of our winters, and the moderate use of salt, lime,
ashes, &c. are beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and
sometimes their complete destruction effected by the
use of soap-suds, ley, tar, turpentine, sulphur, pepper,
soot, decoctions of elder, walnut leaves, tobacco, and
other bitter and acrid substances; but perhaps the most
effectual way of keeping some of the most pernicious
kinds of insects under, is to gather up such fruit as may

APPENDIX: 175

fall from the trees, before the insects have an opportu-
nity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of
shelter.

Where trees are planted in a bad soil or unfavourable
situations, they often become diseased ; when this hap-
pens, the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the
trees clean, by a free use of soap and water. If that
will not do, they may be headed down, or removed to a
better situation. Barrenness and disease are generally
produced by the bad qualities of earth and air, by a want
of water, or by the inroads of insects. These incidents -
generally show themselves in the early part of the year.
Leaves and shoots of any colour but the natural green ;
curled and ragged leaves ; branches in a decaying state ;
shoots growing from the routs, instead of from the stem
or trunk ; the stem diseased in its bark, and guin o0z- —
ing from various parts thereof, are all proots of the exist-
ence of disease.

The Peach tree is subject to a disease called the yel-
lows ; and the discoloured leaves and feeble branches
are often ascribed to the worms which so frequently at-
tack the root; where these are found, they may be re-
moved by a knife or chisel; but if it should appear that
the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to prevent
other trees from being infected. The Pear, and also
the Quince, and sometimes other trees, are subject to
the fire blight ; this malady may be completely checked
on its first appearance, by cutting off and immediately
burning the injured branches. Generally speaking,
careful pruning, cleaning the bark all over with a brush,
applying soap or tobacco waier to the leaves, and occa-
sionally putting good earth and goed manure to the
roots, will remedy most diseases in fruit trees ; remov-
ing them from a bad to a better soil will, of course, ef-
fect this, where it proceeds from poorness of land; tor
the old adage, ‘* remove the cause, and the effect will
cease,”’ will be here exemplified. ‘To cure the oozing
of the gum, nothing more is necessary than to cut away
the diseased parts of the bark; and by thus assisting

176 APPENDIX.

nature in casting out the excrementations, or noxious
juices, a complete cure may be effected. When a tree
is affected by mildew, let it be immediately sprinkled
with soap suds, and then be dusted over with sulphur
and tobacco dust, or snuff ; at the same time, dig around
the tree, and examine the soil, and sub-soil ; if it be wet
and cankery, it should be taken away, and replaced with
good healthy soil, and the ground drained ; if on the
contrary, the ground be dry, give it a plentiful water-
ing; the same remedy may serve as a ‘preventive of
the extension of blight, if taken in time. When any
canker is observed, the part affected must, at the winter
pruning, be cut clean out, and the part thus dressed be
pared, sothat no water be able to lodge in the wound;
when this is done, let a quantity of soot be mixed up
with the water, after which, let a little train oil be work-
ed well amongst it, but so that the mixture finally re-
main stiff; this may be plastered over all the wounds
that have been pruned. The application of this mix-
ture keeps out the wet from the wounds, where it would
be likely to lodge, and both the soot and oil promote
vegetation. When trees are cankery from having a
bad sub-soil, itis in vain to apply any remedy till the
eround is properly drained, and some fresh soil be mixed
with the natural soil, also the tree replanted. When
trees are known to beso situated as to be particularly
liable tothe attacks of insects or disease, they should be
attended to at the time of winter pruning, in order to
destroy the insects in their larvee state. See page 164.

The following compositions have been known to pro-
tect fruit trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by
being used as a wash to the trees immediately after the
winter pruning. The constitution of some trees will
bear a much stronger mixtureof ingredients than others ;
but the proportions, as hereafter described, will not be
injurious to any, but will be effectual in the destruction
of the larve of insects.

For Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach Trees.—To 8
gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, 2 pounds
of common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper.

va

£43

APPENDIX. 177

For Apple, Cherry, Pear,and Plum Trees.—To 4
gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, 2 pounds
of common sulphur, 2 ounces of tobacco, and one ounce
of black pepper.

For Figs and Vines.—To 4 gallons of water add
half a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur,and a
quarter of an ounce of black pepper.

All these ingredients must be boiled together for 20
minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied
to the bark of the trees with a suitable brush.

The most destructive enemy to our fruits, is the Cur-
culio; this insect passes the winter in the earth in a
chrysalis state, and if suffered to remain unmolested by
the gardener, will be ready to commence his attacks at
about the time the blossoms appear on our fruit trees.
The eggs are deposited in the Apple, Pear, and all stone
fruit, at a very early stage of their growth; these eggs
soon hatch, and small maggots are produced, which ex-
ist in the fruit, causing ‘t to drop off prematurely, with
the little enemy within ; if this fruit be gathered up, or
immediately devoured by hogs, geese, or other animals,
a check may be put to their ravages in succeeding years,
but if suffered to remain on the ground, they will supply
food to myriads of their destructive race, which may not
be so easily extirpated. ‘The canker-worm is another
enemy to our fruits, for the destruction of which mauy
experiments have been tried. Some apply bandages
round the body of the tree, smeared over with tar or
ointment, to annoy or entrap the females, in their as-
cent to the tree; but as these tormentors are frequently
onthe move from November to the end of June, this
must be a very tedious, as well as uncertain process. As
this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the
trunk of the tree, and not more than three or four inches
from the surface of the earth, good culture, and a mod-
erate use of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingre-
dient, is the most likely way to destroy them. The
Bark-Louse is another pernicious insect ; they resemble
blisters, and are so near the colour of bark as to be im-

17

178 APPENDIX.

perceptible ; they often prove fatal to the Apple tree,
by preventing the circulation of thesap. These insects
may be conquered by washing the trees with soap-suds,
tobacco water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be
made of soapy water and lime, thickened to the con-
sistence of cream or paint, with sifted sand or clay,
which may be applied with a brush to the trunk and
limbs of the trees; this should be done at the latter end
of May, or early in June, and the cracks in the bark
should be completely covered.

The Apple tree Borer is said to deposit its eggs be-
neath the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to
be found in the spring of the year, bv digging round the
tree, and clearing away the earth to the roots, and may
be taken out with a knife or gouge and destroyed. Af-
ter the worms are removed, the wounds should be cov-
ered over with grafting clay and wood ashes mixed, and
the earth then returned to the roots of the tree. Some
use bricklayers’ mortar early in the spring, around the
base of the tree, so as to cover the part where the de-
posit is made, and prevent their attacks.

Although our limits will not allow of a further de-
scription of the various sorts of insects which injure our
gardens, and frequently destroy the first fruits of our
labour, I cannot forbear directing the attention of our
citizens to the importance of saving all kinds of ashes.
If all agriculturists and horticulturists were to offer an
inducement to the inhabitants of large cities to save their
ashes in a dry state, they would be supplied not only
with a valuable manure, but an antidote for many kinds
of insects; and our citizens would be at less risk from fire,
by having a brick vault on the premises for safe keeping
them. In England, a private dwelling is not considered
complete without an ash vault, and a good farmer would
dispense with his barn, rather than be destitute of an
ash-house. I have known farmers supply the cottagers
with as much peat as they could burn, on condition of
their saving them the ashes; and there are some that
will keep men under pay throughout the year, burning

APPENDIX. 179

peat for the same purpose ; and any thing that has pass-
ed the fire is so valuable, that a chimney-sweep will fre-
quently clean chimneys for the sake of the soot, which
is conveyed miles mto the country, aad sold at a price
sufficient to reward the collectors, besides paying all ex-
penses ; even the house-keepers’ ashes in cities is a
marketable article at all times, at from ten to twenty-
five cents per bushel, when kept dry and clean, and a
guinea a load was formerly the common price in ‘the vil-
lages in Berkshire and Hampshire.

While on this subject, I would urge the importance
of a spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators were to
prepare turfs from tanners’ bark, peat, earth, coal dust,
mixed with clay, cow dung, &c., and get them dried in
the summer season, these, by being preserved through
the winter, may be burned around fruit orchards, while
the trees are in blossom, and if the fires are properly
managed, a smoke may be kept up, by heaping on damp
litter every night ; this will prove pernicious to such in-
sects as may reside in the trees, and the ashes being
spread on the ground, will serve as an antidote for the
destruction of others. An Orchard thus managed every
year, will need no other manure. The smoking should
be effected first on one side of the plantation, and after-
wards on the other, or heaps may be prepared in differ-
ent parts of the Orchard, and fire applied according as
the wind may serve, to carry the smoke where it is most
necessary. I know.a gardener in the neighbourhood
of New-York, who saved his Plums and Nectarines by
burning salt hay, >fter its having been used as a cover-
ing for his Spinach ; ard I have no hesitation in recom-
mending it as an excellent remedy for securing fruit
trees from insects, especially if some coarse tobacco
could be procured to add to it. The damper the mate-
rials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will create;
and if a little tar, pitch, sulphur, or other pernicious
combustible be sprinkled amongst them, it will be bene-
ficial. For further remarks on the ASEH of in-

180 APPENDIX.

sects, the reader is referred to pages 7 and 8 of the ge-
neral remarks on the management of the Kitchen Gar-
den. |

ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES.

In training and pruning fruit trees, particular atten-
tion is required. ‘To supply a tree with a sufficiency
of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark
and wood, in an uninterupted succession from the root
to the extremities of the branches; pruning therefore is
useful to remedy any defect, as well as to take off su-
perfluous wood and prevent unnecessary waste of the
sap. Pruning may be performed at different seasons of
the year according to the kinds of fruit, which will be
shewn under each head, as we proceed.

In the Spring, or Summer pruning, be careful not to
destroy the germs of future fruits; but merely remove
all unserviceable sprays. In the winter season, make
your selection from the wood shoots of the preceding
year; keep those which appear the most healthy, and
cut away those which seem redundant _ Beginners had
better prefer the Spring, as the buds will then be a guide
for them to goby; but this business must not be delay-
ed too late in the season, as some kinds of trees and
vines are apt to bleed from being pruned untimely.
When the sap rises in Grape Vines, &c. before the
wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and is not easily
stopped. When this happens, sear the place, and ¢o-
ver it with melted wax, or with warm pitch spread up-
ona piece of bladder; or peel off the outside bark to
some distance from the place; and then press into the
pores of the wooda composition of pounded chalk and
tar, mixed to the consistence of putty. Vines will bleed
in autumn as well as in spring, though not so copiously
at the former season. The best preventive is timeous
or early pruning in the Spring; and not pruning unti!

APPENDIX. 181

the wood is thoroughly ripe in autumn. With respect
to the manner in which vines, and some particular kinds
of trees should be trained, opinions are at variance. ©
Some advise training the shoots in a straight and direct
_ manner, others in a horizontal manner, and others ina
serpentine form,’ &c. If vines-be trained on low walls
or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training
may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which
from a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizon-
tally on each side.

It has been remarked that in order to be a good trai-
ner of vines, a man must have some forethought, and
be capable of making his selection, as the plants shoot.
He must predetermine how he shall prune, and where
_ he shall cut at the end of the season; and so as it were,
fashion the plants to his mind. He has this more ef- -
fectually in his power, with respect to the vine, than
any other fruit tree, on account of its rapid growth and
docility.

By attending to the proper pruning of fruit trees in
the winter, every advantage is promoted, and by a ju-
dicious management in other respects, wood may not
only be obtained but preserved in every part of the
tree, and so that it will bear down to the very bole,
which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the gar-
dener, the benefit of the proprietor, and will be equally
conducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While
trees are young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation
for a supply of bearing wood in future years, for when
this is neglected, and they become naked, it is some
time before asupply can be recovered. In shortening
a branch, always take care to cut in a direction a little
sloping, and so that the slope may be parallel in’a con-
trary way to the nearest bud left. It is requisite to have
a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be ragged, but
clean, and in the operation, must be careful that the
knife does not slip, so that any other branch be cut or
damaged. ‘The genere| pruning of fruit trees is indiffe-
rently performed by many persons at any time from

ig

{82 APPENDIX.

autumn to spring, and it may be done so without any
great injury to them providing that mild weather is
chosen for the purpose, and the wood is well ripened.
Although it may be advantageous to prune trees early
in the winter when the wood is well ripened, yet when
the wood is green and the buds are not arrived at a ma-
ture state, it is requisite in such instances to defer prun-
ing until spring, taking care however that it is perform-
ed before the moving of the sap. The necessity of this
arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not
ripened in autumn, the sap is then in an active state,
and will continue so until the frost, &c. causes it to be-
come stagnant, and if the shoots were shortened whilst
the sap was in motion, the buds would be considerably
injured and the tree weakened. Such unripe shoots
are also more liable to suffer by the severity of winter,
and when the pruning is deferred until Spring, all such
parts as may have been affected by the weather, can be
removed to the extent to which the damage has been
sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood in the
autumn would be injurious, so it frequently is when it
is done during winter, and the more so, according to the
severity of it. Because, whenever a cut is made on suclt
green wood, the frost generally affects it, as the sap is
not dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able to resist
its intenseness. Whatever method is adopted in train-
ing irees, care should be taken to keep the two sides as
nearly equal as possible; this may easily be done
whether they are trained in the fan, or horizontal me-
thod.

For espalier trees the horizontal method has many
advantages over any other; the small compass in which
the trees are obliged to be kept requires such a direc-
tion for the branches, in order to make them fructiferous.
And were very high trellises formed, so as to admit of
the trees being trained in the fan method, such would
be very objectionable by reason of the shade they would
cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the ben-
efit of a warmer temperature, which those less elevated

APPENDIX. 183

receive, by the effects of which fruitfulness is considera-
bly promoted.

As some young gardeners may not know what is meant
by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that, espa-
leirs are hedges of fruit trees,which are trained up reg-
ularly to a frame or trellis of wood work; they produce
large fruit plentifully, without taking up much room,
and may be planted in the Kitchen Garden without
much inconvience to its other products. For espalier
fruit trees in the open ground a trellis is absolutely ne-
cessary, and may either be formed of common stakes or
poles, or of regular joinery work, according to taste or
fancy.

The following article is selected as appropriate to our
subject, from the fourth volume of the New-York Far-
mer and Horticultural Repository, No. 1, page 3, com-
municated by that enterprising Horticulturist, J. Buel,
Esq., of the Albany Nursery, and entitled, Hints on
Pruning :

The principal objects of pruning, are to procure a
good bole or trunk for timber ; to form a proper head
for the production of fruit; and to subserve the pur-
poses of ornament.

To effect these objects with the least trouble and
greatest advantage, upon all non-resinous trees, the fol-
lowing rules are recommended :

ist. Begin to prune the tree when it is young,

2d. Cut close and smooth to the bole or limb.

3d. Cut, when small, the branches which are likely
to interfere, or become useless, and which, if suffered te
remain, will require to be removed at a more advanced
period of growth.

Ath. Do not trim to excess. Let the branches occus
py, at least, a third of the entire height of a tree.

5th. Do not prune when the tree bleeds.

Where the preceding suggestions are observed, we
may add—

~ 6th. Prune in summer.

i184 APPENDIX.

I proceed to offer my reasons for the rules here re-
commended, and

First. The food required to nourish the lateral use-
less branches, will go to increase the diameter.and height
of the plant, or swell the fruit, if these are judiciously
removed. But a main consideration is, that the excision
of small branches causes only small wounds, and small
wounds. speedily heal. The observance of this rule,
therefore, facilitates growth, promotes health, and ulti-
mately saves labour.

Secondly. This rule needs very little argument to
enforce its propriety, as every observer must have fre-
quently seen and lamented the ruinous effects of an op-
posite practice. The snags either send out useless sprays,
or, deprived of the feeble aid of these, they die and rot,
and carry disease into the bole, and are thus often the
cause of the premature loss of the entire tree. It cut
close, the enlargement of the living wood soon covers
the wound. In large branches, where the saw must
be used, the healing process is greatly facilitated, by
paring the cut, particularly the exterior edges, with the
pruning-knife ; and it is a good precaution, before you
use the saw, to notch under the intended cut, to prevent
tearing the bark when the limb falls. In extirpating
sprouts from the roots, and neither they nor those grow-
ing from the bole should be suffered long to remain, the
like precaution of cutting close should be observed ; for
which purpose, it is necessary first to remove the earth
from about the collar, with the spade or other instru-
ment. )

Thirdly. The reasons for pruning a tree while young,
apply here: it is easier to cut small than large limbs,
and the wounds of the former soonest heal. But the
question presents, what limbs are to be cut ? Generally
all that are likely to cross each other, all feeble sprays,
the strongest on the bole, and the weakest in the lon; for
while the trees are in the nursury, I think it serviceable
to leave a few scattering laterals upon the bole, and it is
beneficial, at all ages, to thin most kinds inthe lop. Yet

APPENDIX, 185

the answer to the inquiry will depend principally upon
the species of tree, and the design of the planter. If
his object be timber, the leading shoot should be feather-
ed up in a spiral form, and all other shoots likely to in-
terfere with its growth, be cut away. If the object be
fruit, beauty and utility are to be consulted, and these
are seldom incompatible in the eyes of a fruit-grower,
for with him productiveness constitutes beauty. If or-
nament be the main consideration, no special directions
can be given, as the species employed, the location, and
the taste and fancy of the planter, will have a control-
ling influence. The rule fo~ timber trees will not ap-
ply to either those destined for fruit or ornament.

Tn orchard and garden fruit, generally, the endeavour
should be to obtain a low and spreading top. When a
clean bole is obtained to a sufficient height, say in the
orchard, of seven or eight feet, and in the garden, ac-
cording to fancy, the leading shoot should be cut in,
and three or more arms or branches left to form the
head ; which, when the habit of the tree will permit it,
‘should be pruned so as to give it a besom form, or that
of a broom divested of its centre. Several advantages
arise from this and a more expanded form. It admits
the air and sun more freely, to mature the fruit and wood;
it renders the tree less liable to be blown down ; it faci-
litates the gathering of the fruit, and the pruning of the
tree. But the principal advantage consists in its ten-
dency to increase oviparous or fruit:-buds, and conse-
quently to augment the fruit. A great growth of wood
seems to be incompatible with a great crop of fruit, and
vice versa. A cow which gives much milk seldom
takes on much flesh during the milking season. If the
secreted food is converted into milk and fruit, there can
be but little reasonable hope of its adding to the flesh’of
. the animal, or the wood of the vegetable. Erect branch-
es produce most wood buds, horizontal branches the
most fruit buds. Straight limbs produce less fruit than
those that are curved or crooked. Whatever retards
or diminishes the flow of elaborated sap, ina healthy

186 APPENDIX.

tree, is favourable to the production of fruit. Hence
wall trees, whose limbs are trained in the form of a fan,
or in a horizontal direction, fruit better than those that
grow upright as standards. Hence young trees are more
apt to show blossoms the first and second vear after
transplanting, than in the two subsequent years. Po-
mologists have endeavoured to render this law of vege-
tation subservient to their interests, by adopting artifi-
cial means for inducing the production of fruit buds.
‘Ehese means consist in ring-barking, transplanting, cut-
ting the roots, training, pruning, &c. The Pears in
the Caledonian Horticultural gardens are trained en
quenouille, that is, the lateral branches are cut in to a
short distance of the main stem, and kept so, and the
fruit is produced on the spurs growing from these short-
ened branches. In the Horticultural garden of Lon-
don, the limbs of the Pear are tied down in a drooping
position, resembling somewhat in appearance the weep-
ing willow. The vines cultivated at Thomery, celebra-
ted for their superior fruit, ave panied eighicen inches
apart, trained in the form of a T, the top horizontally,
and restricted in their growth to four feet from the main
stem. In this way a trellice of eight feet long, and eight
feet high, is sufficient for five vines, which produce
upon an average 320 bunches of fruit. These modes of
training have a common object, that of restricting the
growth of wood, and producing an increase of fruit.
‘Those who wish to examine the modes of training here
spoken of, in detail, are referred to Loudon’s Garden-
er’s Mag:zine.

Fourthly. Leaves are as necessary in the economy
of vegetation as roots. ‘The sap must be elaborated in
these before it can be transmuted into wood, bark, or
fruit. A tree cannot thrive, therefore, when these or-
gans are either deficient or diseased. If sufficient leaves,
or branches to produce them, are not left to concoct, or
digest the sap which is propelled from the roots, the
tree, to use a modern term, but a just comparison, be-
comes dyspeptic, the vegetable blood is vitiated, the

APPENDIX. 187

wood loses its texture, and a stinted growth, or prema-
ture death generally ensues. Hence great precaution
should be used against excessive pruning.

Fifthly. To prune when the tree bleeds, tends to de-
bilitate, by wasting what is designed as food for the tree.
I have known it fatal to the vine. What is termed
bleeding, is the flowing of the sap from wounds before

it has been converted into aliment. This sap flows ©

most freely while the buds are swelling, and until the
leaves are fully capable of discharging their office, as is
strongly instanced in the maple, birch, &c. Our or-
chards are generally pruned in March, which is proba-
bly the most unfavourable month in the year for this
operation.

Sizthly. The advantages of summer pruning are, that
the tree being then in vigorous growth, the wounds heal
speedily ; and the sap being concocted and thick, does
not flow from the wounds, and thereby impair the health
of the plant. Summer pruning should not be perform-
ed, however, before July, when the new growth has con-
siderably advanced. It may be well to add, as this sug-
gestion may seem unsound, that summer pruning is re-
commended by the best authorities. ‘* As a general
rule,” says Pontey, ‘“* summer is preferable to winter
pruning ;” and Sang suspends pruning “ from the be-
ginning of February to the middle of July, but carries it
on during every other month of the year.’**

In regard to evergreens, which with us are confined
principally to resinous trees, it is the general practice of
nursery-men, and I think it a judicious one, not to prune
them till they have acquired some years’ growth, and
then but sparingly and at long intervals, displacing two

* The Gardener’s Magazine for October, has a communication
from John Bowers, recommending summer as having a decided
preference. The growth of trees thus pruned, he says, far exceeds
that of the winter pruned. He commenced the practice in 1826,
when his trees were six feet high ; and in the autumn of 1829,
they were 20 feet. He has this year summer-pruned 100 acres
of young plantations, which in August were stated to beremark-
ably thriving and healthy.

¢

188 APPLE TREE.

or three tiers of the lower branches every two or three
years. Monteithsays “never cut off a branch till it has
begun to rot, as the bleeding of a live branch will go
far to kill the tree.”

The implements employed in pruning, and the man-
ner of using them, are matters of moment. If the ope-
ration is commenced when the tree is younz, and judi-
ciously followed up, a good knife, a small saw, and a
chisel fixed on asix foot handle, to trim the tops and
extremities of the branches, are ali the tools that are re-
quired. A large saw will be occasionally wanted ; but
an axe or hatchet should never be employed, as they
fracture the wood, bruise and tear the bark, and disfi-
gure the tree.

In preparing the following articles, the object has been
to furnish such information as was thought best calcula-
ted to entertain, as well as to instruct the readers. Be-
sides the authorities quoted, I have gleaned from those
inexhaustible treasures to Horticulturists, Loudon’s En-
cyclopeedia of Plants, and that of Gardening; but on
account of the brevity necessarily observed throughout
this work, it has been found impracticable to give many
entire extracts; suffice it to say, that the historical facts
are generally collected from these sources.

APPLE. Pommrier. Pyrus malus.

The Apple being so closely connected with our wants
and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the ca-
talogue of our fruits. The Apple orchard is in truth —
the vineyard of our country; aud the delicious bever-
age that can be obtained from some of the varieties of
this excellent fruit being calculated to cheer the invalid,
as well as strengthen the healthy, entitles it to high con-
sideration. It is one of our oldest species of fruit, and
has become completely naturalized to our soil; none

APPLE. 189

can be brought to so high a degree of perfection with so
little trouble ; and of no other are there so many ex-
cellent varieties in general cultivation, calculated for |
almost every soil, situation, and climate, which our
country affords. The Apple tree is supposed by some
to attain a great age: Haller mentions some trees in
Herefordshire, England, that attained a thousand years,
and were highly prolific; but Knight considers two hun-
dred vearsas the ordinary duration of a healthy tree, graft-
ed on a crab stock, and planted in a strong tenacious soil.
Speechly mentivns a tree in an orchard at Burton-joice,
near Nottingham, of about sixty years old, with branches
extending from seven to nine yards round the bole, which
in 1792 produced upwards of two hundred gallons of
apples.

The Romans had only twenty-two varicties in Pliny’s
time. There are upwards of fifteen hundred now cul-
tivated in the garden of the Horticultural Society of
London, under name; the catalogue of the Linnzan
Botanic Garden at Flushing, contains over four hundred ;
and one of our enterprising horticulturists, Mr. Win.
Coxe, of Burlington, New-Jersey, enumerated one hun-
dred and thirty-three kinds, cultivated in the United
States, some years ago. ‘They are usually divided into
dessert, baking and cider fruits ; the first high flavored,
the second such as fall or become mellow in baking or
boiling, and the third austere, and generally fruit of
smal] size. Besides this division, Apples are classed as
pippins or seedlings, pearmains or somewhat pear-shaped
fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles or white
skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, codlings or fall-
ing fruits, and burknots, which last grow readily by
cuttings.

The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many
sorts by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is by
grafting on seedling stocks of two or three years growth, |
and for dwarfing on stocks of the Quince or Paradise
Apple. Ali the principal varieties are cultivated as
standards, in the orchard, and should be planted from |

18

190 APPLE.

thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any other
spreading trees, in order that the sun and air may have
its due influence in maturing the fruit.

Many of the dwarf kinds may be introduced into the
Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers or dwarf stan-
dards. An Apple orchard may be planted at any time
after the trees are two years old from the graft ; and as
trees from young stocks will not come into full bearing
until ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing
with care at any time within that period.

Old Apple trees may be graftedwith superior varieties
by being headed down to standard height ; in very old
subjects, most commonly, the branches only are cut over
within a foot or two of the trunk, and then grafted in
the crown or cleft manner. In all the varieties of the
common Apple, the mode of bearing is upon small ter-
minal and later:] spurs, or short robust shoots, from
half an inch to two inches long, which spring from the
younger branches of two or more years growth, appear-
ing first at the extremity, and extending gradually to the
side: the same bearing branches and fruit spurs continue
many years fruitful.

Pruning.—As from the mode of bearing, Apple trees
do not admit of shortening in the general bearers, it
should only be practised in extraordinary cases. If
trees have not the most desirable form when three or
four years old, they should be judiciously pruned to
promote regular spreading branches. In annual pru-
ning, the main branches should not be cut unless in
cases of decay: but all superfluous cross branches and
dead wood shouid be taken out, and the suckers eradi-
cated. Espaliers require a Summer and Winter pru-
ning.

APRICOT. 19}
APRICOT. anricotrer. Prunus Armeniaca.

The fruit of the Apricot is next in esteem to the
Peach, and as it ripens three or four weeks earlier,
should be more generally cultivated. The flowers ap-
pear in April, on the shoots of the preceding year, and
on spurs of two or more years growth, and the fruit
ripens in July and August. The London Horticultural
Society’s catalogue describes fifty-four sorts,and Messrs.
Prince have forty-four in their catalogue ; besides these,
is the Peach Apricot, a large fruit, supposed to be a
hybrid between a Peach and an Apricot.

Our enterprising fellow citizen, Mr. Wm. Shaw, suc-
ceeds every year in maturing large quantities of this ex-
cellent fruit ; he ripens some on standards, but they suc
ceed best when trained against close fences. In England
some of the varieties are cultivated as standards, and
espaliers ; they seldom bear much fruit under ten or
twelve years; but then the fruit is abundant and of the
finest flavour. They are commonly cultivated as wall
trees, inan East or West aspect; for if they are planted
full South, the great heat causes them to be mealy be-
fore they are eatable. New varieties are procured from
seed, as in the peach, and approved sorts are perpetua-
ted by budding on Plum stocks, &c.

The varieties of the Apricot, in general, bear chiefly
upon the young shoots of last year, and casually upon
small spurs rising on the two or three years old fruit
branches. The Moor Park bears chiefly on the last
year’s shoots, and on close spurs formed on the two year
old wood. The bearing shoots emit the blossom buds
immediately from the eyes along the sides, and the buds
have a round and swelling appearance.

Apricot trees may be planted at any time after the
head is formed: some head them down in the nursery
bed, and remove them to their destined places when
five or six years old.

Standards will require only occasional pruning to re-
sulate such branches as may be too numerous, too

4

192 APRICOT.

extended or cross formed, and to remove any casually
unfruitful parts and dead wood; but the regular branches,
forming the head of the tree, should not be shortened
unless necessary. :

The general culture of the wall Apricots compre-
hends a Summer and Winter course of regulation, by
pruning and training. The fan method is generally
adopted, but some prefer training horizontally. With
young trees some contrive to fill the wall by heading
down twice a year.

The Winter or early Spring management compre-~
hends a general regulation both of the last year’s shoots
and the older branches. A general supply of the most
regular situated young shvots must be every where re-
tained, for successional bearers the ensuing year. Cut
out such branches as are not furnished with competent
supplies of young wood, or with fruit spurs, to make
room for training a general supply of the most promis-
ing branches retained. Generally observe in this pru-
ning to retain one leading shoot at the end of each
branch: either a naturally placed terminal, or one form-
ed by cutting (where a vacancy is to be furnished) into
a proper leader. Let the shoots retained for bearers be
moderately shortened : reduce strong shoots in the least
proportioned—cutting off one fourth or less of their
length ; from weak shoots take away a third, and some-
times a half. This shortening will conduce to the pro-
duction of a competency of lateral shoots the ensuing
Summer, from the lower and middle placed eves;
whereas without it, the new shoots would proceed most-
ly from the top, and leave the under part of the princi-
pal branches naked, and the lower and middle parts of
the tree unfurnished with proper supplies of bearing
wood. Never prune below all the blossom buds, except
to provide wood, in which case cut nearer to the origin
of the branch. As, in these trees, small fruit spurs, an
inch or two long, often appear on some of the two or
three year’s branches furnished with blossom buds, these
spurs should generally be retained for bearing. Aseach

.

ALMOND. 198

tree is pruned, nail it, laying in the branches and shoots
from three to six inches distance, straight and close to
the fence or wall.

The Summer pruning is principally to regulate the
young shoots, of the same year. In the first place, take
off close all the irregular foremost shoots, taking care to
retain a competent supply of choice, side shouts, witha
good leader to each parent branch. Continue these
mostly at full length all the Summer, regularly trained
in, to procure a sufficiency to choose from in the general
Winter pruning, for new bearers the next year.

If the Summer regulation commences early, while
the shoots are quite young, and, as it were, herbaceous,
those improper to retain may be detached with the fin-
ger and thumb; but when of firmer growth, they must
be removed with the knife. Ifanv very strong shoots
rise in any part where. the wood is deficient, they may
be topped in June, which will cause them to produce
several laterals the same year, eligible for training in, to
supply the vacancy.

Sometimes the fruit is much too numerous, if not at-
tacked by insects, often growing in clusters ; in which
case thin them while in a young green state, leaving the
most prominent fruit singly, at three or four inches dis-
tance, or from about tvo to six on the respective shoots,
according to their strength. The Apricots so thinned
off, and the first principal green fruit are very fine for
tarts,

ALMOND. Amanpier. Amygdalus.

Although Almonds are not much cultivated in this
part of our couniry, they are entitled to notice. The
species are fruit trees, or ornamental trees. and shrubs,
both much esteemed for the gay colour and early ap-.
pearance of their flowers; these vary in their colour
from the fine blush of the oe blossom to a snowy

18

194 ; BERBERRY.

whiteness. The chief obvious distinction is in the fruit
which is flatter, with a coriaceous covering, instead of
the rich pulp of the Peach and Nectarine, opening spon-
taneously when the kernel is ripe. It is a native of
Barbary, China, and most eastern countries. There
are twenty-one sorts described in the catalogue of the
Linnzan Botanic Garden at Flushing; some of which
are represented as new kinds from France and Italy ;
where they are cultivated extensively for their fruit.

In France, they have above a dozen species or va-
rieties, besides «a hybrid called the Almond Peach. The
common and bitter Almond are only to be distinguish-
ed by the taste of the kernals of their fruit; which is
the only part used. The tender shelled is in the great-
est esteem; and next, the sweet and jordan. The bit-
ter cuticle or skin of Almonds is taken off by immer-
sion in boiling water.

The sweet Almond and other varieties are used as a
dessert in agreen or imperfectly ripe, and also in a ripe
or dried state. They are much used in cookery, con-
fectionary, perfumery and medicine.

The Almond is propagated by seed, for varieties, or
for stocks ; and by budding on its own or on Plum stocks,
for continuing varieties. The Almond tree bears chief-
fy on the young wood of the previous year, and in part
upon small spurs or minor branches ; it is therefore
pruned like the Apricot and Peach, and its culture in
other respects is the same.

eee

BERBERRY. Vinertier ov Epine Vinette. Ber-

beris.

The Berberis vulgaris is at once an ornamental shrub,
a fruit tree, a hedge plant, a dye andadrug. There
are several species or varieties indigenous in Europe,
China and America. ‘The shrub is branchy and prick-~
ly, rising to the height of eight or ten feet, with ash.

BERBERRY. © 195

coloured bark, yellow inside. The flowers appear in
pendulous racemes towards the end of the branches ;
the berries at first greeu. The most esteemed varie-
ties for their fruii, are the following: 1. Red Berberry,
without stones, which has an agreeable flavour when
full ripe. It is only found without stones when the
plant has attained considerable age, and.is on a poor
soil. 2. Pale fruited Berberry. 3. White fruited.
4. Black sweet, which is the tenderest of them, and
will bear the heat better than some other kinds. There
are also some kinds with purple coloured fruit, and some
with yellow. The common red with stones is planted
more for ornament than use, on account of its beautiful
red berries. The berriesof Berberis Canadensis are
spherical.

The bunches of fruit of the common Berberry are
well known as affording an excellent sweet-meat when
preserved in sugar.. The qualities of the different va-
rieties enumerated are probably of equal merit in point
of flavour, but the fruit is materia!ly different in ap-
pearance. It ripens gradually from August to October.
‘The sweet sort is a native of Austria. All the varie-
ties are propagated commonly by suckers, also by cut-
tings and layers of the young branches, and occasional-
ly by grafting; the common red is also raised by seed ;
each of which methods of propagating may be performed
in the spring ; that by suckers and layers may be effected
also in autumn,

The Berberry produces its fruit at the sides of the
branches in small loose bunches , it bears both on young
and old wood, chiefly towards the extremities. The
branches should not be shortened in pruning, except the
design be to force out new wood; permit the head to
extend freely ; and give only occasional pruning, to
keep it in a pretty round form, open in the middle ;
cutting out weak, superiluous, crossing, and decayed
branches ; reduce all long ramblers and low stragglers,
also lateral shoots on the stem, and eradicate all root
suckers.

196 CHERRY.

Sir J. Banks, in his treatise on blight, states that ‘ the
Puccinia, a fungus which closes up the epidermis of
the leaves of grain crops, and appears on the surface
like rust is generated hy the Aucidum berberides, an in-
sect which inhabits ihe Berberry ; if this be correct, the
plant is not desirable to the farmer. It is however much
cultivated in Europe, for the sake of the fruit, which is
pickled and used for garnishing dishes; and being boil-
ed with sugar, forms a most agreeable sweet-meat or
jelly ; they are used likewise in sugar-plums or comfits.
As a medicine the fruit is considered a mild restringent
acid, agreeable to the stomach, and of efficacy (like other
vegetable acids) in hot bilous disorders, and in a putrid
disposition of the humours. The roots boiled in a ley,
vield a yellow colour—and in Poland they dye leather
of a fiae yellow, with the bark of the root ; and with the
assistance of allum the inner bark-of the stems also will
dye linen of a fine yellow colour.”

CHERRY. Cenrisirr, &c. Prunus cerasus.

The Cherry of the cultivated varieties is said to have
been first introduced into Italy, in the year 73, from a
town in Pontus, in Asia, called Cerasus, whence its
specific name; and it was introduced into Britain one
hundred and twenty years aiterwards.

The Romans had eight varieties of Cherries, red,
black, tender fleshed, hard fleshed, small bitter Havour-
ed and dwarf sort. There are now upwards of two
hundred in cultivation. The French divide their Cher-
ries into griottes, or tender fleshed; bigareaux or heart
fleshed; and guignes or small fruits. The fruit of ma-
ny varieties is somewhat heart shaped, whence they are
called ox heart, white heart, black heart, &c.; why
some sorts are ‘called aul is not so obvious. The
morello cherry is very different from the other varie-
ties, bearing almost exclusively from the preceding years

CHERRY. 197

wood, and the pulp of the fruit having the consistence
and flavour of the fungi called morel; whence the name.
The Chinese Cherry is valuable on account of its bear-
ing an excellent fruit, and producing it abundantly in
forcing houses.

Cherries are grafted or budded on seedlings from
Cherry stones, and from seedlings of the red and black
mazzard. For dwarfing, they are worked on the morel-
lo, or perfumed Cherry ; the latter is preferred in Hol-
land. ©

Cherry trees in general, produce the fruit upon small
spurs or studs, from halfan inch to two inches in length,
which proceed from the sides and ends of the two
year, three year, and older branches, and as new spurs
continue shooting from the extreme parts, it is a maxim
in pruning both standards and espaliers, &c., not to
shorten the bearing branches where there is room for
their regular extension.

The morello is in some degree an exception, as if
bears principally on the shoots of the preceding year,
the fruit proceeding immediately from the eyes of the
shoots; and bears but casually, and in a small degree
on close spurs formed on the.two year old wood, and
scarcely ever on wood of the third year, therefore, in
pruning, leave a supply of young shoots on all the
branches from the origin to the extremity of the tree,
for next year’s bearers.

All kinds of Cherry trees except the morello are apt
to grow very tall; to remedy this, and to enable them
to form handsome heads, the leading shoot should be cut
off when about three years growth from the bud ; after
which give only occasional pruning, to reform or remove
any casual irregularity from cross placed or very crowd-
ed branches; and take away all cankery and decayed
wood.

Dwarf Cherry trees may be introduced into the
Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, &c. When
morellos are planted in an orchard, they may be placed
from fifteen to twenty feet apart ; trees of the duke

198 CHESTNUT.

kind may be planted from twenty-five to thirty feet
apart ; and the heart shaped, in general, will require to
be from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any
other spreading trees. 4

Cherry Trees may be removed the first year after the
bud is established ; but they will bear removing at any
time before they come into bearing, which is about the
fifth year.

"Phe gum which exudes from Cherry trees is equal
to gum arabic ; and Hasselquist relates, that more than
one hundred men, during a siege, were kept alive for
nearly two months, without atiy other sustenance than
a little of this gum taken sometimes into the mouth, and
suffered gradually to dissolve.” The wood is hard and
tough, and used by the turner and cabinet maker.

CHESTNUT. Cuatraianer. Castanea.

‘The Chestnut is well known as a large tree, spread-
ing its branches finely on every side where it has room, |
but, planted closely, will shoot up straight to a great
height. It is supposed to have been originally from
Sardis. It isso common as to be considered a na-
tive of France and Italy; and some consider it as nat-
uralized in England ; it is also indigenous in America,
The London catalogue contains the names of thirty-
two sorts under cultivation. The Chestnut is like the
Walnut, both a timber and fruit tree ; some of the old-
est trees in the world are of this species. ‘The Amer-
ican Chestnut differs so little from the European, that
no specific distinction can be drawn. It is one of the
largest trees of the forest, the wood being extremely
durable, and in high esteem for posts and rails to con-
struct fences ; andthe nuts are very delicious. The
Castanea pumila or Chinquapin nut, is a small tree,
or rather shrub, growing to the height of thirty feet in
the Southern States, but seldom exceeding ten in cold

CRANBERRY. ~ 199

latitudes; the fruit is very sweet and agreeable to eat.

There is a variety with striped leaves, which is very
ommamental. ‘The most esteemed of the French kinds
are called marron. Some excellent fruit bearing vari-
eties are cultivated in England, France, Italy and
Spain, as also in other parts of Europe ; these are in-
creased by grafting or budding in the usual methods,
but the plants for coppice woods, or timber are best
raised from nuts. Some varieties ripen their fruit a
few days earlier than others, but none of these have
been fixed on, 01 perpetuated by nurserymen, so as to
be rendered available by purchasers. The fruit is a
desirable nut for autumn and winter, and is eaten roast-
ed, with salt, and sometimes raw; and in some coun-
tries it is not only boiled and roasted, but ground into
meal; and puddings, cakes and bread are made from it.

CRANBERRY. Canneperce. Orxycoccus.

This genus of plants is well distinguished from the
Vaccinium or Whortleberry, by the narrow revolute
segments of corolla; and are pretty little trailing ever-
ereen plants to which a peat soil and rather a moist
situation are absolutely necessary ; they are very little
changed by culture.

The Oxycoccus macrocarpus is aed acid fruit, high-
ly valued as a sweetmeat or for tarts. Jt is well known
that this excellent fruit grows in many parts of our
country spontaneously ; and that the mere gathering
it, is al] that bountiful nature requires at our hands ; but
it is well worth cultivating where there are none.
This fruit will keep a whole year, if properly preserved
in close covered stone jars, and is considered, by many,
as superior to the best currant jelly, and may be kept
for many months in a raw state without injury.

The Oxycoccus palustris, bears edible berries which
are gathered wild both in England and Scotland, and

200 CRANBERRY.

made into tarts. Lightfoot says ‘“‘twenty or thirty pounds
worth are sold each market day, for five or six weeks
together in the town of Langtown, on tke borders of
Cumberland.”

Nicol says the American species is more easily cul-
tivated than the English, but is inferior to it in fla-
vour. There is reason to believe that the quality of
the fruitof each of these species js subject to variations,
which have not yet been practically distinguished.
Their cultivation is now so well understood, that they
may both be considered with propriety as inmates of
the fruit garden.

It is customary in England to prepare beds on the
edges of ponds, which are banked up so as to admit of
the wet getting underneath them; bog or peat earth is
considered essential for the roots torun in; but it has
been discovered that they can be cultivated in damp
situations of agarden, with a top dressing of peat or
bog earth, and if they are once suited as to soil, the
plants, will multiply so as to cover the bed in the course
of a year or two, by means of their long runners, which
take root at different points. Froma very small space
a very large quantity of Cranberries may be gathered ;
and they prove a remarkably regular crop, scarcely af-
fected by the state of the weather, and not subject to the
attacks of insects. Sir Joseph Banks gives an account
in (Hort. Trans. I. 71,) of his success in cultivating
this fruit. ‘‘In one year viz. 1813, from 326 square
teet, or a bed about eighteen feet square, three and a
half Winchester bushels of berries were produced,
which, at five bottles to the gallon, gives one hundred
and forty bottles, each sufficient for one cranberry pie,
frum two and a half square feet.”

CURRANT, 201
CURRANT. GrosEILLER A GRAPPES. Ribes.

This is a genus of well known shrubs much cultivat-
ed for their fruit. It is a native of the northern parts
of Europe, and found in hedges and woods in England;
and there are some species indigenous in America.
The fruit, being of an agreeable subacid taste, is gen-
erally relished both as a dessert and in pies and taris;
itis also much used in’ making wine, and is grown to a
considerable extent for that purpose in Essex, Kent,
and about Pershore in Worcestershire England. There:
are ten species cultivated inthe garden of the Horti-
cultural Society of London, at Chiswick; comprising
twelve varieties of red, ten of white, five kinds of black,
together with champagne, mountain, rock, upright,
Pensylvanian, &c. Any number of varieties of the red
and white may be procured from sowing the seeds,
but they are generally propagated by cuttings ef the last
year’s wood, which should be of sufficient length to form
handsome. plants, with a clear stem, ten inches high.
‘They will grow in almost any soil, but presper best in
one loamy and rich. The best flavoured fruit is pro-
duced from plants in an open free situation, but they
will grow under the shade of walls or trees, and either
as low bushes or trained as espaliers. ‘They bear chief-
ly on spurs, and on young wood of from one to three
years growth, and therefore in pruning most of the young
wood, should be cu: to within two or three buds of that
where it originated. After the plants are furnished
with full heads, they produce many surperfiuous and ir-
regular shoots every summer, crowding the general
bearers, so as to require regulating, and curtailing, both
in the young growth of the year, and old wood. The
principal part of the work may be done in winter, or
early in the spring; but a preparatory part should be
performed in summer; to eradicate suckers, and thin
the surperfluous shoots of the year, where so crowded as
to exclude the sun and air from the fruit. In training
espaliers and for standards, two branches are laid in a
horizontal direction along the bottom of the trellis, per-

19 .

302 ELDER.

haps half a foot from the surface of the earth, and the
growth from these of all upright shoots, which will ad-
mit of being arranged at the distance of five or six inches
of each other, is encouraged. Fan standards are some-
times trained with the branches radiating from the
crown of the stem.

The black Currant or Ribes nigrum, is common in
moist woods in Russia and Siberia ; its culture is simi-
lar to that of the red, but as itis less apt to bear on |
spurs, than on young wood, the shoots should not be
so much shortened in this as in the other.

Currant bushes will require to be planted at. differ-
ent distances according to situation and mode of train-
ing &c. When planted in beds, borders, or squares they
should be six feet apart, but if trained as espaliers,
they will require to be eight feet apart.

Many people dislike the flavour of black Currants,
they are therefore not much used in the kitchen or
dessert, and seldom in wine making. They make a
jelly or jam in estimation as a gargle, for inflammatory
sore throats. ‘‘ In Russia and Siberia, wine is made
of the berries alone, or fermented with honey, and with
or without spirits. In Siberia they make a drink of
the leaves ; these tincture common spirits so as to re-
semble brandy, anda few of them dried and mixed with
black tea, answer all the purposes of the green ma-
terial.””—( Loudon.)

All kinds of Currants may be forced by placing them
in any forcing department in January or February ;
they will produce ripe fruit in April and May.

ELDER. Sureav. Sambucus.

There are several species and varieties of the Elder,

in various parts of Asia, Europe and America. It is

“common in damp woods and hedges, and is sometimes
cultivated on the hounderies of gardens. There are

FIG. 203

black, yellow and green berried, cultivated in the
London society’s garden. The fruit is in great de-
mand in various parts of England for making elder
wine, of the expressed juice ; a powerful, warming, and
enlivening article in cold weather.

Sambucus nigra with its variations, and Sambucus
racemosa, or red berried, are very showy in shrubberies
when in flower and fruit. “The kinds cultivated for
their fruit are chiefly the white and the black. The
scarlet and green berried may also be used like the
black, and are very ornamental for the shrubbery.

As the plant will grow any where, either in open or

shady situations, it may be planted in any out ground
or waste spot, in single standards, or in rows to assist
in forming boundary fences. If planted as a hedge,
and suffered to grow up untrimmed it will produce an a-
bundance of berries for use. They are all easily pro-
pagated by sced sown as soon as ripe, and also by cut-
tings of the young shoots in the spring.
_ The leaves of the dwarf Elder are said to drive away
mice, and the berries dye blue.. ‘* The tree” professor
Martyn observes ‘‘is a whole magazine of physic to
rustic practitioners, nor is it quite neglected by more
regular ones. An excellent healing ointment is made
of the green inner bark, which is also purgative in mod-
erate, and diuretic in small doves. A decoction of the
flowers promotes expectoration, and they give a pecu-
liar flavour tovinegar. The French put layers of the
berries, in heaps or casks of apples, to which they
communicate a most agreeable odour.”

FIG. Fiewer. Ficus carica.

There are many species of the Fig, which are all
natives of warm climates. In some parts of Asia, and
in the South of Europe, they are always grown as
standards; and the fruit, green and dried, forms an im-

204 j FIG.

portant part of the food of the inhabitants. The Lon-
don Horticultural catalogue contains the names of seventy
five sorts; and Messrs. Prince, of Flushing, have up-
wards of forty in their collection, some of which are
select sorts from France and Italy. It is cultivated in
England as a fruit tree, and, in warm situations, will
ripen its fruit in the open air. In Sussex, on the sea
coast, it ripens its fruit on standards. Some of the best
in England, are at Arundel Castle ; and there is a Fig
orchard of one hundred trees at Tarring, near Worth-
ing. ‘Those at Arundel, are planted six or eight feet
apart, and from a single stem allowed to continue
branching conical heads, pruning chiefly irregular and
redundant growths, and cutting out decayed or injured
wood. /

The Fig tree may be propagated from seed, cuttings,
layers, suckers, roots, and by grafting ; the most gene-
rally approved method is by layers or cuttings, which
come into bearing the second, and sometimes the first
year. No tree is more robust or more prolific, even
plants in pots or tubs, kept in a temperature adapted
for the Orange tree, will fruit freely and ripen two crops
a year, and by being taken good care of through the
winter, will go on growing and ripening fruit without
intermission.

When the Fig is planted in a garden, a good loamy
soil should be provided ; and it may be trained to close |
fences or trellises in sheltered situations. At the ap-
proach of winter they must be protected ; those trained
to close fences may be secured through the winter, by
a covering of matting; and such as may be in open |
‘situations should be liberated from the trellis and laid
down close to the ground, and covered three or four
inches with earth ; or trenches may be formed of that
depth, sufficient to contain the branches, which should
be fastened down with hooked pegs, without cramping
them ; such of the strong central branches as will not .
bend, may be enveloped in litter. .They should be
pruned before they are laid down in November, and on

FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. 205

being raised again in April, they may be trained ¢ as be-
fore. Figs may be cultivated in private gardens as
easily as the vine.

eee See

FILBERT anp HAZLENUT. Norserier AVELI-
NIER. Corylus.

The Filbert, in many varieties, and also the com-
mon Hazlenut, grows spontaneously in the woods of
Britain, and some few varieties are indigenous in this
country. The kinds of Filberts generally cultivated,
are the white, red, cub, clustered, and frizzled ; of dath
of which, there are many varieties. As this ‘sirub is
so easily eulitvesed: it is a matter of astonishment that
the nuts from this genus of plants, are so scarce in our
markets. In different parts of England there are Fil-
bert orchards. In-the Filbert grounds about Maidstone,
in Kent, it is a prevailing practice to cultivate Hops,
standard Apples, and Cherries, among the Filberts ;
when these come into a bearing state, the Hops are
destroyed or transplanted elsewhere, and the fruit trees
only suffered to remain. The spare ground, is then
planted with Gooseberries, Currants, &c. The red
Filbert is allowed to have a finer flavour than the
white. The cob-nut is large, with a thick shell, but
the kernel is sweet, and of considerable size. The
Barcelona is a good large nut with a thin shell. The
crossford is very sweet, kernels well, and the tree is a
great bearer.

All the different kinds may be grown as dwarf stan-
dards ; or they will bear very well if planted in clumps ;
but as they produce an abundance of suckers, these
should be parted off frequently, and planted in a nursery
bed for stock; as the bearing plants will cease to produce
fruit in any quantity, if the suckers are allowed to form
a thick bush. They may be propagated by seed, by

18

206 GOOSEBERRY~

suckers, by layers, or by grafting in the spring upon
seedling or sucker stocks.

The Filbert bears principally upon the sides of the
upper young branches, and from small shoots which
proceed from the bases of side branches cut off the
preceding year. The leading shoot is every year to be
shortened, and every shoot that is left to produce fruit
should be clipped ; which prevents the tree from being
exhausted in making wood at the end of the branch.— -
Such branches as may have borne fruit, must be cut out
every year, in order to promote the growth of a supply
of young fruit-bearing branches.

GOOSEBERRY. Grosrituer. Ribes grossularia

Sf uva crispa.

The Gooseberry isa native of several parts of Europe,
and is indigenous in America, as far north as 68. It is
cultivated in greater perfection in England than in any
other part of the world. In Spain and Italy, this fruit
is scarcely known. In France it is neglected. In
Lancashire, England, and some parts of the adjoining
counties, almost every cottager cultivates the Goose-
berry, with a view to prizes given at what are called
Gooseberry Prize Meetings ; of these there is annually
published an account, with the names and weight of the
successful sorts, in what is called the Manchester Goose-
berry Book. The prizes vary from ten shillings to five
and ten pounds sterling. There are meetings held in
the spring to ‘‘ make up,” as the term is, the sorts, the
persons, and the conditions of exhibition ; and in August
to weigh and taste the fruit, and determine the prizes.

The list of the Lancashire growers contains upwards
of three hundred names, from which the following are
selected, as in most repute for flavor; some of these
have been known to weigh over thirty pennyweights :

GOOSEBERRY. 207

Reds. Roaring Lion—Uancashire Lad—British
Crown—Prince Regent—Pastime—Jubilee—Sir John
Overall—-Bang up—-Huntsman—-Smolensko—-Top
Sawyer—Elisha—Fox Hunter—Alwick’s King—Bog-
gard—Abraham Newland—Sir Francis Burdett—Beau-
tyof England. —

Yellows.—Radical—Cottage Girl— Viper—Queen--
Sovereign— Husbandman— Bunkershill—Rockwood—
Charm—Gunner—Bright Venus—Cheshire Cheese.

Green.—-Jolly Angler—Elijah—Ocean—Indepen-
dent--Favorite --P rofit—Troubler—Greenwood—Lau-
rel—Mountain—Green Gage—Farmer’ s Glory—Heart
of Oak.

_ White-—Smiling Beauty--Cheshire Lass—Conquer-
ing Hero—First Rate—White Lion—Queen Ann—
Queen Caroline—Bonny Lass—Sheba Queen—Merry
Lass—Queen Mary--Governess— W ellington—White-
smith—Nature—Maid of the Mill.

The Gooseberry may be propagated by all the modes
applicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is usu- _
ally adopted for continuing varieties, and that by seeds
for procuring them. The cuttings should be taken from
promising shoots just before the leaves begin to fall in
the autumn; the greatest part of the buds should be
taken off, leaving only two or three buds on the top.—
Cut them at such a length as the strength and ripeness
of the wood will bear; and plant them in good pulveri-
zed soil. On the approach of winter, lay some moss or
litter around them; and by being well cultivated they
will be fit to transplant when they are a year old.
When bushes are procured from the public nurseries let
the general supply be in such kinds as will ripen in suc-
cession. They may be planted in the kitchen garden,
in single rows along the sides of the walks or paths, or
in compartments by themselves, in’ rows from six to.
eight feet apart from row to row, and five or six feet
apart in the rows; or in small gardens, they may be
trained to a single tall stem, and tied to a stake: this,

208 GOOSEBERRY. |

though six or eight feet high, occasions scarcely any
shade, and it dees not occupy much room, nor exclude
air; while at the same time the stem becomes close
hung with berries, and makes a pleasant appearance in
that state. Persons of taste may train them on arched
trellises, which, if judiciously managed, the. ground
around them may be more easily cultivated ; the fruit
may be kept from being splashed with rain, and may
be easily gathered when wanted, or preserved by shading
with mats, &c. Those who may havea choice of soil,
and site, should fix on a good, rich, loamy earth ; and
plant some of the-choice kinds in a northern and east-
ern aspect, near the fence, to come in late in succession.

The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the
shoots of the preceding year, and on shoots two or three
years old, but also on spurs or snags arising from the
older branches aiong the sides ; but the former afford
the largest fruit. The shoots retained for bearers should
therefore be left at full length, or nearly so; the first
praning should be done before the buds swell, so as not
to endanger their being rubbed off in the operation.
Cut out all superfluous cross shoots, and prune long
ramblers and low stragglers to some well placed lateral
or eye ; retain a sufficiency of the young well situated
laterals and terminals, to form successional bearers. In
cutting out superfluous and decayed wood, be careful to
retain a leading shoot at the end of a principal branch.
The superfluous young laterals on the good main branch-
es, instead of being taken off clean, may be cut into lit-
tle stubs of one or two eyes, which will send out fruit
buds and spurs. Some persons not pruning the Goose-
berry bush on right principles, cause it to shoot crowd-
edly, full of young wood in summer, from which the
fruit is always small, and does not ripen freely with full
flavour ; ; on which account it is an important point in
pruning, to keep the middle of the head open and clear,
and to let the occasional shortening of the shoots be spar-
ing and moderate. Between the bearing branches keep a

GRAPE. 209

regulated distance of at least six inches at the extremi-
ties, which will render them fertile bearers of good
fruit. ; :
The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire, are
particular in preparing a very rich soil, and they water
occasionally with liquor which drains from dung-hills ;
and there are some, who, not content with watering at
the root and over the top, place a small saucer of water
under each Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are
left on a bush; this is technically called suckling. —
There are others that ring some of the branches ; this is
done by cutting out small circles of bark round them;
and by pinching off a great part of the young wood, the
strength may be thrown to the fruit. Unripe Goose-
berties may be preserved in bottles against winter :
some, after filling the bottles in a dry state, stand them
in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to heat them gra-
dually through without cracking them ; the berries will
keep green a whole year, by being close corked and
sealed, as soon as cold.

The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes
placed in pits, or in the peach house or vinery.’ ‘* Hay
plants in pots in November, removes to the peach house
in January, and has ripe fruit in the end of April, which
he sends to table growing on the plants.”—(Hort.
Trans. 4, 415.)

=,

GRAPE. Vicnr. Vitis, vinefera § vulpina.

The Grape Vine is described by Loudon as a trail-
ing deciduous hardy shrub, with a twisted irregular stem,
and long flexible branches, decumbent, like those of
the bramble, or supporting themselves when near other
trees, by means of tendrils, like the pea. ‘The leaves
are large, lobed, entire, or serrated and downy, or
smooth, green in summer, but when mature, those of
varieties in which the predominating colour is red,

210 f GRAFE.

constantly change to, or are tinged with some shade of
that colour ; and those of white, green, or yellow grapes;
as constantly change to a yellow, and are never in the
least tinged either with purple, red, or scarlet. The
breadth of the leaves varies from five to seven or ten
inches, and the length of the foot stalks from four to
eight inches. The flowers are produced on the shoots
of the same year, which shoots generally proceed from
those of the year preceding: they are in the form of a
raceme, ofa greenish white colour, and fragrant odour,
appearing in the open air in June; and the fruit which
is ofthe berry kind, attain such maturity as the season
and situation admit, by the middle or end of Septem-
ber. The berry or grape is generally globular, but of-
ten ovate, oval, oblong, or finger shaped; the colours
green, red, yellow, amber, and black, or a variegation
of two or more of these colours. The skin is smooth,
the pulp and juice of a dulcet, poignant, elevated gen-
erous flavour. Every berry ought to enclose five small
heart or pear shaped stones; though, as some generally
fail, they have seldom more than three, and some vari-
eties, as they attain a certain age, as the Ascalon or sul-
tana raisin, none. The weight of a berry depends not
only on its size but on the thickness of its skin, and tex-
ture of the flesh, the lightest being the thim skinned and
juicy sorts, as the sweet water or muscadine ; and what
are considered as large berried of these varieties, will
weigh from five to seven penny-weights, and measure
from one to two-thirds of an inch in girth. A good
sized bunch of the same sorts may weigh from two to
six pounds; but bunches have been grown of the Svri-
an grape, in Syria, weighing forty pounds, and in En-
gland weighing from ten to nineteen pounds, A single
Vine in a large pot, or grown asa dwarf standard in the
manner practiced in the vineyards: in the north of
Franee, ordinarily produces from three to nine bunch-
es: but by superior management in gardens in England,
the number of bunches is prodigiously increased, and
one plant, that of the red Hamburgh sort, in the vinery

GRAPE. 211

of the royal gardens at Hampton Court, has produced
two thousand two hundred bunches, averaging one pound
each, or in all nearly aton. That at Valentines in Es-
sex, has produced two thousand bunches of nearly the
same average weight.

The age to which the Vine will attain in warm clim-
ates is so great as not to be known. -It is supposed to
be equal or even to surpass that of the Oak. Pliny
speaks of a Vine which had existed six hundred years ;
_ and Bose says, there are Vines in Burgundy upwards of
four hundred years of age.

In Italy there are vineyards which have been in a
flourishing state for upwards of three centuries, and
Miller tells us, that a vineyard a hundred years old is
reckoned young. ‘The extent of the branches of the
Vine, in certain situations and circumstances, is com-
mensurate with its produce and age. In the hedges of
Italy, and woods of America, they are found overtop-
ping the highest Elm and Poplar trees; and in England
one plant trained against a row of houses in Northal-
lerton (lately dead) covered a space in 1585, of one
hundred and thirty-seven square yards; it was then
above one hundred years old. ‘That at Hampton Court,
nearly of the same age, occupies above one hundred
and sixteen square yards; and that at Valentine, in Es-
sex, above one hundred and forty-seven square yards.
The size to which the trunk or stem sometimes attains
in foreign countries, is so great as to have afforded
planks fifteen inches broad, furniture, and statues; and
the Northallerton Vine, iave mentioned,in 1785, mea-
sured four feet in circumference near the ground, and
one branch of the Hampton Court Vine measures one
hundred and fourteen feet in length. Vine timber is
of great durability.

_ The varieties of the Grape in countries where it is
grown for the wine press, are as numerous as the vine-
yards; for as these for the most part differ in soil, as-
pect, elevation or otherwise, and as the Vine is greatly
the child of local circumstances, its habits soon become

212 . GRAPE.

adapted to those in which it is placed. When it is con-
sidered that a vineyard once planted will last two or
three centuries, it will readily be conceived that the
nature ofa variety may be totally changed during only
a part of that time. The varieties mostly in esteem
for wine making, are small berries, and bunches with an
austere taste. The Burgundy, as modified by different
soils and situations, may be considered the most gene-
yal vineyard Grape of France, from Champagne or
Marne, to Marseilles or Bordeaux.

The best wine in Italy and Spain, is also made from
Grapes of this description ; but in both countries many
of the larger berried sorts are grown: on account of
their producing more liquor. The sweet wines as the
Malmsey, Maderia, Constantia, Tokay, Nc. are made
from sweet berried Grapes allowed to remain on the
plants till over ripe. ‘That wine is the strongest, and
has most flavour, in which both the skins and stones are
bruised and fermented. 'The same thing is the case in
making cider ; but in both processes bruising the stones
or kernels is often neglected. The Vine was formerly
extensively cultivated in Britain for the wine press, but
its culture is now confined to the garden as a dessert
fruit; and they have in that country not only the best
varieties, but they grow the fruit to a larger size and of
a higher flavour than is done any where else in the
world; this is owing to the perfection of their artificial
climates, and the great attention paid to soil and sub-
soil, and other points of culture. The fruit is produ-
ced in some vine1ys during every month of the year;
and in the London markets (generally) it is to be had
in the highest degree of perfection from March to Jan-
uary. ‘

The Vine will thrive in any soil that has a dry bot-
tom; and in such as are rich’and deep it will grow
{uxvriantly and produce abundance of large fruit; in
_ shallow, dry, chalky or gravelly soils, it will produce
less fruit, but of better flavour. Speechly recommends
dung reduced to a black mould, the dust and dirt of

GRAPE. 213
reads, the offal of animals or butchers’ manure, horn
shavings, old rags, shavings of leather, bone dust, dung
ef deer and sheep, buman excrement,‘when duly mel-
iorated by time, a winter’s frost, and repeatedly turning’
over. Abercrombie says that dung out of a cow house
perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the Vine ; he re-
commends drainings from dung-hills to be used over
the ground once in ten or fourteen days from the |
time the buds rise, till the fruit is set, and that fresh
horse dung be spread over the ground in autumn as a
manure, and also to protect the roots from the inclem-
ency of the weather; some however disapprove of
manuring high, as being calculated ta produce woed
rather than fruit.

‘The general mode of propagating the Vine is by eut-
tings, either a foot or more long, with a portion of tvo
year old wood, or short, with only one bud, or one bud
and a half a joint, &c., Vines are to be had at the:
Nurseries propagated either from layers, cuttings or’
eyes ; but plants raised from cuttings are generally pre-
ferred ; many are of opinion that it isa matter of
indifference from which class the choice is made provid-
ed the plants are well rooted, and in good health, and
the wood ripe. A mode of very general utility, is to
select the piants in the nursery a year defore wanted,
and to order them to be potted in very large pots. Va-
rieties without end are raised from seed, and it is
thought that by propagating from the seeds of succes-
sive generations some sorts may ultimately be procured’
better adapted for ripening their fruit in the open air
than now known. A seedling Vine carefully treated:
will show blossoms in its fourth or fifth year ; say that it
produces a fair specimen of its fruit in the sixth year,
then a new generation may be obtained so often ; but
seeds ought never to be sown except for experiment.

William Robert Prince Esq. in his treatise on the
Vine, published 1830, enumerates about five hundred’
and fifty varieties in cultivation in the vineyard attach-
ed to the Linnzean Botanic Garden at Flushing, includ-

_ing about ninety. American native grapes ; but no suf

20

214 GRAPE.

ficient evidence has. as yet been exhibited, of vine-:
yards flourishing here equal to what they do in Europe.

Mr. Loubat has. succeeded with some of the foreign

varieties at his vineyard on Long Island; and consid-

erable success, of late years, has attended the cultiva-

tion of sime of the varieties of table fruit in private
gardens. The following have been found to succeed

best in the vicinity of New-York: the Sweetwater, the

Chasselas, the Muscadine, the White Tokay, the Black
Hamburgh, the Blue Cortiga, the Miller Burgundy, the

Austrian Muscadel, the Messlier, the Morilon, the

Black Prince, Blanc, and some excellent seedling sorts
from the imported Lisbon Grapes. To plant a vinery

for a full crop of good Grapes of various flavours, take

a white and red Muscat, a white and red or black

Muscadine, a white and red Frontignac, a black or

red Muscadel, a white Raisin grape, a white and red

Hamburgh,a Sitwell’s and red Sweetwaters,a white and

red Nice, a black Damascus, a red Syracuse and a

black Constantia. ‘The above list contains some of
the most esteemed table. Grapes of all colours and

flavours, which will ripen in succession. The most

preferable kinds of our native Grapes for private gar-

dens are the ‘ Catawba,’ the York,(Pa.) ‘ Black Madei-

ra,’ the Schuylkill Muscadeland the Isabella. To these

may be added the Scuppernong or Hickman grape,

which is said to be larger than the Fox Grape of a de-

lightful perfume, and when ripe, it is of a yellowish

white colour.”

Previous to planting Vines, care should be taken, that
the ground be well pulverized aud prepared for
some distance around, for the roots to spread. The
soil should be deep and dry and _ some rich compost or
vegetable mould should be used around the roots in fil-
ling in; a handfull or two of wet ashes to each plant is
recommended by Mr. Loubat as beneficial ; and he re-
commends the planting to be done in the month of
March, or early in April. .

There are various methods adopted in training and
pruning the Vine; and it appears impossible io lay

GRAPE. 215

down rules to suit every cultivator. The Vine having,
like other trees, a tendency to produce its most vigor-
ous shoots at the extremities of the branches, and parti-
cularly-so at those which are sittiated highest; it gene~
rally happens, when it is trained high, that the greater
portion of the fruitis borne near the top; and it has
been observed, that the fruit produced on the vigorous
shoots, which naturaliy grow at the extremitios of the
long branches, is generally more abundant, andof finer
quality, than that-produced on the short lateral ones,
from which circumstance, high training seems to be the
best calculated for private gardens.

In some parts of laly, Vines are cultivated together
with Muiberry trees, and arevallowed to mingle and
hang in festoons; thus silk and wine are produced | on
the same spot; and it is considered that when Vines
are allowed to grow over trees; on the sides of a house,
or on bowers, or extended on tall poles, without much
trimming, they will produce more fruit, and are not so
liable to mildew. Dr. G. W. Chapman, of New-York,
having paid some attention to the cultivation of native
Grapes, observes, that the Vine, in its natural state, sel-
-dom or ever throws out bearing shoots until it reaches
the top of the tree on which it ascends, when the branch-
es take a horizontal or descending position. From this
fact, he considers horizontal training preferable to that
in the fan shape. From the experinients he has made,
he has found that the shoots coming from those parts of
the branches bent downwards, are more productive than
from those ascending ; he considers deep digging around
the vine, even to the destruction of some of the extend-
ing roots, as calculated to phic the growth of more
fruit and less wood, than if allowed to spread near the
surface ; and he disapproves stopping the shoots before
the fruit until July.

Mr. Williava Wilson, of Clermont, leaves his Vines
their whole length at the time of trimming in October.
In November they are laid on the ground at full length,
fastened down with pins, and covered lightly with earth ;
in this state they lic all the winter. In April, as sooo

216 GRAPE.

as the weather will permit, they are uncovered, and teit
lying on the ground ten or twelve days; by the first of
May, the Vines are trained to stakes or poles of the
length of ten feet and upwards; and by the middle of
June, the stakes. are entirely covered by new shoots of
the Vine, and with plenty of fruit, which ripens in Sep-
tember. Mr. W. says, that until he pursued his present
course, his fruit was frequently blasted and mildewed,
but that he has now Vines twenty or thirty feet lone,
which run up the fruit trees adjoining; others, being
carried up eight or ten feet, are stretched horizontally.
itis seldom he gathers fruit within three or four feet of _
the ground, and he has never any blasted or infected
with mildew; he keeps the ground cultivated by fre-
quent hoeing and raking; but he says he has used no
manure for ten years or more.

Edward H. Bonsall, Esq. bas a vineyard of Ameri-
can Grapesat Germantown; Pa., in a high state of cul-
tivation. In page 331 of Prince’s. Treatise on the
Vine, is a letter to the author, containing some valua-
ble information, from which the following is extracted
as appropriate to our subject :

Mr. Bonsall’s vineyard is situated between the Schuyl-
kill and Delaware rivers, four miles from the former,
and eight from the latter, at an elevation of three hun-
dred feet above their level, having an aspect facing S.
S. k., with a substratum of light isinglass soil, and seems
well suited to the purpose. He says, * from my expe-
rience, both on my premises and at other places, it is
my opinion that we should reject almost all the foreign
varieties, especially where our object in cultivating them
is to'make wine.” He has upwards of thirty varieties
of American: Vines under. cultivation ; he recommends
preparing the ground by ploughing with two ploughs
with streng teams, one immediately behind the other,
wn the same furrow, each of them seé deep; and after
the ploughing is completed, to be harrowed thoroughly.
Then in the direction the rows are intended to be
plented, parallel furrows are run across the field, at the
distance of eight feet from each other ; these are after-

GRAPE. 217

wards crossed at right angles, five feet asunder. In the
epening, at the intersection of these furrows, cuttings
from nine to twelve inches long are planted. In this
manner, nearly two thousand Vines are extended over
un acre of ground, arranged witha view to the Vines
being, when grown, at distances of four by seven feet
from each other; to this end, he frequently plants two
cuttings in a place, some of which are used to fill up
with, in case of failures. He says, that in 1829 he
planted in nursery beds from two to three thousand cut-
tings as late as the middle of April to the middle of
May, with better success than at any previous time,
** Tn this case, the slips should be kept in a cool damp
place, a cellar, or ice-house, where vegetation may be
held in check. To insure their freshness, sprinile them
occasionally with water. Previous to planting, cut them
a proper length, and place them, with their lower ends
three or four inches in water, in a tub above ground,
where they may soak three or four days. At this sea-
son the temperature will be likely to be such as will spur
vegetation at once into healthy’ and vigorous action.
The fall, or early in the spring, is preferable for rooted
plants. In the autumn of the first year, after the frost
has killed the unripe part of the young shoots, they
should be pruned down to the mature firm wood, and
then with a hoe hilled over with the surrounding soil,
which will completely protect them through the winter.
If left without protection the first winter, many of them
will perish.”

Mr. Bonsall says his mode of training, as far as he is
aware of it, is entirely peculiar to himself, which he
describes as follows: ‘* I take chestnut posts, the thick-
ness of large fence rails, seven feet in length; these I
plant along the rows, at distances of ten feet from each
other, and at sucha depth as to leave five feet above
the surface of the earth ; then taking three nails to each
post, and driving them to within half an inch of their
heads, the first two and a half feet from the ground, a
second mid-way between that and the top, and the third
near the top I atiach pn ho iron wire (one degree

20

‘O48: GRA PEV

‘soft is best) firmly to.one of the nails in the end post,
+ pass on to the next, and stretching it straight and tight,
give it one turn round a nail in the same line as the one
‘to which ft was first attached. Having in this manner
extended it along the three courses, the whole length of
the row, my trellis is formed. I have had a portion of
“ray vineyard fitted up in this way for three years, and
experience has confirmed the superior fitness of the
plan. Ht is not its least recommendation, that it pos-
sesses ina degree the character of labour saving machi-
nery. A very important and extensive labour-making
portion of the operations in the vineyard during the
summer, is the attention required by the growing shoots
to keep them properly trained up. They grow and ex-
tend themselves so rapidly, that where the strips of the
trellis ure lath, or where poles are used to support Vines,
-unless very closely watched, they fall down in every
direction, in a very unsightly and injurious manner.
Here the wire being small, the tendrils or claspers
eagerly and firmly attach theruselves to it, and thus work
for themselves, in probably two-thirds of the instances
where the attention of the vigneron would otherwise be
required. There is free access afforded to the sun and
air, and no hold for the wind to strain the frame,” &c.
Mr. Bonsall says further, *‘ I shall not enter inte a mi-
nute description of my manner of pruning, but may
just say, that after the vines have attained a full capa-
city for production, (say five years from the cutting,) my
view is to prepare them for bearing an average of fifty
clusters to each, leaving several shoots of from three to
five joints on a vine for this purpose. When fresh prun-
éd, they will net be more than four feet high, at their
sreatest age.”

Although ihe man of taste and capacity for improv-
ing on the improvements of others may have gleaned
ideas from the above extracts sufficient to enable him
to cultivate the vine in his own garden, it may be neces-
sary. to direct the reader’s attention to the different me-
thods of cultivating this excellent fruit in varied situa~
dons.

GRAPE. Zig

A Vine may be trained horizontally under the coping
ef a close fence or wall, to a great distance, and the
borders in an east, south- east, and southern aspect of
large gardens may be furnished with a variety of sorts
which will ripen in great_perfection, without encumber-
ing the borders; or the plants may be trained low, like
currant bushes, in which case, three or more shoots,
eighteen inches or two feet in length, may diverge from
the stem near the greund, to supply young wood annu-
ally for bearing. ‘The summer pruning consists in re-
moving shoots which have no fruit, or are not required
for the succeeding season; in topping fruit- bearing
shoots, and also those for succeeding years, when incon-
veniently long and straggling. For as by this mode the
shoots destined to bear are all cut into three or four
eyes at the winter pruning, no inconvenience arises
from their throwing out laterals near the extremities,
which stopping will generally cause them to do. In
training. Vines as standards, the single stem at bottom
is not allowed to exceed six or eight inches in height,
and from this two or three shoots are trained, or tied to
a single stake of three or four feet in length. These
slroots bear each two or three bunches, within a foot or
_ eighteen inches of the ground, and they are annually
succeeded by others which spring from their base, that
is, from the crown or top of the dwarf main stem. This
is the mode practiced in the north of France and in
Germany ; in the south of France and in Italy, the
base or ini stein is often higher, and furnished with
side shoots, in order to afford a great supply of bearing
wood, which is tied to one or more poles of greater
height. The summer pruning in this case, is nearly
the same asin the last. In the winter pruning, the
wood that has borne is cut out, and the new wood short-
ened, in cold situations, to three or four eyes, and i in
warmer places to six or eight eyes.

Of the various methods of pruning and training ihe
Vine suited to private gardens and vineries, the follow-
ing are selected from Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Gar-
dening :

230 GRAPE.

Speechly’s mode of. pruning and training the Vine
acainst a wall or trellis, is to cut it down to two eyes or
buds ; ; the next winter, the shoots of the preceding sum-
mer are shortened each to one eye; two leading shoots
are produced, trained upright during summer, and in
the following winter headed down to from three to five
feet each, and led in hor izontally, parallel to the ground,
and ‘about a foot above it; these main stems produce
shoots from every eye, but only a few are selecied,
which stand from a foot to fifteen inches apart, and these
are trained upwards during summer, and in winter eve-
ry other one is cut out to within two or three eyes of
the main stem, and the rest shortened to one third of
the length of the trellis. The following summer, the
third, a moderate crop will be produced from the side
shoots of the precedirvg year’s wood, and from the spurs
of the main stem. In the winter following, the shoots
which have produced fruit are shortened dewn to two
eyes, except the leaders to the Jong shoots, which are
left with four or five eyes. Next summer, the fourth,
the top of the wall or trellis will be reached by the
leading sboots, and the spurs are now allowed to pro-
duce each one leader. In winter both of these-leaders
are headed down to four or five eyes, and the side shoots .
from the old wood to one or twoeyes. In the tollow-
ing summer, the fifth, a full crop of Grapes is procuced
in every part. ‘This constitutes one course or rotation,
and the next, and all the future courses, extend only to
four years, in which the object is to renew the upright
bearers every fourth year, the intervening spurs furnish-
ing shoots to succeed them. This method is called per-
pendicular, spur, or Dutch training 5 but few who adopt
it pursue itso regularly as to renew the old upright
shoots every fourth year, by which, and for other eaus-
es, and chiefly the small quantity of fruit produced dur-
ing the first four years, it has fallen into disrepute.

Abercrombie’s methods of pruning established Vines,
admit of much diversity, as the plants are in different
situations. Without reckoning the cutting down of
young or weak plants alternately to the lowermost sum-

GRAPE. 22}

mer shoots, which is but a temporary course, three dif-
ferent systems of pruning have their advocates. In the
first method, one perpendicular leader is trained from
the stem, at the side of which, to the right and left, the
ramifications spring. When the plant is established,
the immediate bearers or shoots of the growing season,
and the mother bearers, or shoots of the last year’s
growth, are thus managed. Soon after the growing
season has commenced, such rising shoots as either are
in fruit and fit to be retained, or are eligibly placed for
mother bearers next season, are laid in, either borizon-
tally, or with a slight diagona) rise, at something less
than a foot distance, measuring from one bearing shoot
_ to the next: the rising shoots, intended to form young
wood, should be taken as near the origin of the branch
ag a good one offers, to allow of cutting away, beyond
the adopted lateral, a greater quantity of the branch, as
it becomes old wood ; the new spring laterals, not want-
ed for one of these two objects, are pinched off. The
treatment of those retained during the rest of the sum-
mer, thus differs: As the shoots in bearing extend in
growth, they are kept stopped about two eyes beyond
the fruit; the connate shoots, cultivated merely to en-
large the provision of wood,.are divested of embryo
branches, if they show any, and trained at full fength as
they advance during the summer, until they reach the al-
lotted bounds ; were they stopped in the middle of-their
growth, it would cause them to throw out troublesome
laterals; in the winter pruning, there will thus be a
great choice of mothe: bearers. ‘That nearest the ori-
sin of the former mother bearer, or most commodiously
»iaced, is retained, and the other or others on the same
branch are cut away; the rest of the branch is also ta-
ken off, so that the old wood may terminate with the
adopted lateral ; the adopted shoot is then shortened to
two, three, four, or a greater number of eyes, accord-
ing to. its place on the Vine, its own strength, or the
sirength of the Vine. ‘The lower shoots are pruned-in
the shortest, in order to keep the means of always aes
slying young wood at theboitom of the Vine.

222 GRAPE.

The second method .is to head down the natural lead-
er, so as to cause it to throw out two, three, or more
principal shoots; these are trained as leading branches;
and in the winter pruning, are not reduced, unless to
shape.them to the limits of the trellis, or unless the plant
appears too weak to sustain them at length. Laterals
from these are cultivated about twelve inches apart, as
mother bearers; those in fruit are stopped in summer,
and after the fall of the leaf, are cut into one or two
eyes. From the appearance of the mother bearers,
thus shortened, this has been called spur pruning.

The third method seems to flow from taking the se-
cond plan.as a foundation, in having more than one as-
piring leader, and from joining the superstructure of the
first system immediately to this, in reserving well plac-
ed shoots to come in as bearing wood. ‘Thus, suppos-
ing astem which has been headed, to send up four vi-
gorous competing leaders, two are suffered to bear fruit,
and two are divested of such buds as break into clus-
ters, and trained to the length of ten, twelve, or fifteen
feet, or more, for mother bearers next season. In the |
winter pruning, the leaders which have borne a crop,
are cut down to within two eyes of the stool, or less,
according to the strength of the plant, while the reserv-
ed shoots lose no more of their tops than i is necessary
io adjust them to the trellis.

Nicol’s mode. The first year after planting, after
the buds have sprung an inch or two, it will be proper
to single out those to be trained, and displace the others
with the thumb. Three shoots only should be trained
on each plant, that is, the two lowermost, and the up-
permost, if it be vigorous; but otherwise, displace it,
and train the next below it. As the shoots advance,
they should be trained at the distance of ten or twelve
inches from each other, allowing them sufficient room
in the ties to swell. without being cramped. Pinch off
all laterals as they appear, except one or two nearest to
the point of the shoot, lest by any accident it be brok-
en, and in that case, that a substitute may readily be
found—which, however, is never equal to the main shaot

GRAPE. 224

—so that great care should be taken in the training of
principai jeaders. One side shoot of each plant may
be stopped wien it is five or six feet in length, and the
other when nine or ten, (as they are to be cui well down
in the winter pruniag,) which will throw in the more
strength to the middle shoots, that are only to be head-
ed dowa to about six or eight feet, and which, if well
ripened, may yield a iruit next season. These should
be encouraged, therefore, and be careiully trained, as
long as they will grow. ‘* In the end of the season, say
in the month of November, these shoots,’? Nicol ob-
serves, ** are to be pruned thus: the side shoot stopped
first to three eyes, ihe other to five or six feet, and the
middle shoot to seven, eight, or ten feet, according to,
its strength, from which may be expected a good deal of
fruit next season, aud a shoot frem its extremity, to be
stopped at the top of the trellis this time twelvemonth.
From the side shot, pruued to five or six feet, may be
expected a little fruit; and from its extremity, a shoot
to be headed at this time next year, at nine or ten feet
in length, which will,. the season following thereafter,
produce a full crop. From the side shoot, shortened
to three eyes, are to be expected two shoots, the one to
be trained to the height of about nine or ten feet, (to be
pruned to five or six at this time next year,) and the
Otiier to four or five only, as it is again to be pruned
back to two or three buds this time twelyemonth ; thus
providing for wood to fill the under part of the trellis.
There should be three ranges of bearing shoots, viz.
one range at boitom of the trellis, from side to side,
reaching from within two feet of the ground, five or
six more feet upwards; asecond, reaching from a foot,
or perhaps two feet under the top of these, that is, from
within seven or eight of the ground, to the distance of
fourteen or fifteen feet upwards from it; anda third
range reaching from a foot or two under the tops of
these last to the uppermost row of wires on the trellis s
the shoots of the first, or lower range, being headed at
about five or six feet; those of the second, or middle
range, at about seven or sight; and those of the third,

224 GRAPE: A

or uppermost, at about nine or ten feet in length, all a
foot or two, more or less, according to circumstances ;
according to their strength, how low or how high upon
the plants they have issued, and how far they have
sprung, and are fully matured. The distance at which
these shoots should be placed from each other in their
respective ranges, is “bout thirty inches; which dis-
tance is necessary to give room to the stubs of next
year, on which the clusters are to hang, as in this. sea-
son; and which distance may be varied a few inches,
according to the kinds of Grapes, some growing strong-
er than others. The undermost shoots on the trellis,
or those placed nearest to the ground, and which were
only trained to the height of a few feet, must be short-
ened back to two or three joints; it being a principal
point in the training of Vines, always to provide for a
supply of bottom wood and to keep young wood as
near to the ground, or lower part of the plants, as pos-
sible.

In pruning, cut generally at two inches above the bud.
Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is
apt to weaken the shoot of next season, and sometimes
to prevent its vegetating at all, the buds being very sus-
ceptible of injury, on account of the soft and spongy
nature of the wood. In the cutting out of old wood, be
careful to cut in a sloping direction, and to smooih the
edges of the wood, in order to prevent its being injured
by moisture. The pruning being finished, let the loose,
shreddy, outward rind on the old wood be carefully
peeled off, observing not to injure the sound bark, and
clear the trellis of branches of leaves, tendrils, &c.
Let the shoots and branches be afterwards regularly
laid in, at the distance above specified, particularly the
young shoots that are expected to bear next season. As
to the others, it is not so material how near the young
shoots be placed to the old, or even though they some-
times cross them. Choose strands of fresh matting, or
pack-thread, to tie with; and observe to leave sufficient
room for the swelling of the shoots and branches next
season, as above cautioned.”

GRAPE. 225

{n Griffin’s mode of training and pruning in the vine-
ry, only a single shoot is left under each rafter. The
Vine is planted outside, close to the parapet, and intro-
duced through a hole immediately under the rafter up
which it is trained. On planting, it is cut down to-one
eye ; about Christmas, the shoot formed during the pre-
ceding summer is cut down to two or three feet; the
second year, one shoot only is trained from the extre-
mity, and it is again headed down in winter, so that the
joint length of the two years’ wood is from ten to fif-
teen feet: and at the Christmas of the third year, the
shoot is cut off at the end of the rafter. The fruit, it is
obvious, is to be obtained from the side shoots, or spurs,
proceeding from this main shoot. The spurs are cut
down to single eyes every winter, till the main shoots
get coarse and rugged, which will happen in about ten
years ; it is then cut away entirely, a young stem hav-
ing been previously trained up the two preceding years
from the bottom, to substitute in its place. As soon as
the plants become sufficiently strong to furnish wood,
from the point where they enter the house, for a second
and third branch, then a proper number must be fixed
on as permanent plants, and their side branches brought
successively forward and trained to the contiguous raft-
ers, one bearing branch being applied to éach rafter.
The weight of Grapes preduced under each rafter, by
this mode of pruning, is generally about forty pounds,
two bunches to each spur, or from fifty to one hundred
bunches, averaging half a pound each.

_ Summer Pruning.— This depends generally on the
necessity of admitting light and air to the fruit and
young wood, and particularly on the sort of winter
pruning to be adopted. The gardener, therefore, as
Nicol observes, must. have a predestinating eye to the

following season.””’ Whatever methods of pruning are
used, Mr. Phial remarks, ‘‘ the Grape Vine, through
the whole course of the growing season, requires con-
stant attendance, so as not to suffer the plant to be
crowded in any part with superfluous shoots or leaves,
and no more fruit ought to be suffered te swell on the

21

226 GRAPE.

plant than it is well able to bring to perfection. The
berries, also, on each bunch should be thinned, so that
they may have room to swell, without pressing too hard

on each other.” '

As the shoots of newly planted Vines advance, they
must be keptregularly fastened to the trellises. Divest
them of their wires, and also take off their laterals as
they appear. ‘The Vines in general may be permitted
to run twenty feet, and the most vigorous thirty-five
feet, before they are stopped, if the trellises extend so
far. Sometimes a vigorous shoot having run to the ex-
tent of the frame, is conducted in some other direction,
as ismost convenient. Siop the shoots, by pinching off
their tops.. After they have been stopped, they gene-
rally send out laterals from three or four of the upper
eyes. If these laterals are at once taken off, the sap
will be merely diverted to the lower part of the shoot;
permit them, therefore, io proceed about twelve inches,
and then pinch off their tops. ‘These shortened late-
rals will, in their turn, send out others, which should be
stopped at the second joint.

In the second season, as soon as the shoots are half a
span long, the rudiments of the bunches will be per-
ceptible. The bunch is produced on the naked side cf
the shoot, opposite the lef bud. Having ascertained
the most promising shoots, divest the vines of supernu-
merary branches as they rise. Fruitful laterals will
sometimes show two or three bunches at each eye; and
this is apt to tempt the pruner to retain too many. On
the leading shoot, retain of the best laterals, to the right
and left, a number proportioned to the vigour and age
of the plant ; one on each side, as near the bottom as
it offers, with a second, third, fourth, up to seven, at the
distance of three feet, if ihe plant is in its fourth sum-
mer, but only five, at the distance of four feet, if this be
the third summer since the plant was struck. Train the
shoots reserved on each side, tying them to the trellis
with strands of matting. Leave on each branch two
bunches, or a single bunch, according as the plant is in
the fourth or third season from its origin; pinch off the

GRAPE. 227

others. Afterwards stop the bearing laterals at the se-
cond joint above the fruit. Rub off water shoots from
the older wood. Pinch off inferior laterals and ten-
drils.

Nicol observes, that “‘ most of the summer pruning of
‘Vines may be performed with the fingers, without a
knife, the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed off,
and those to be shortened, being brittle, are readily
- pinched asunder.”’ After selecting the shoots to be train-
ed for the production of a crop next season, and others
necessary for filling the trellis from the bottom, which
shoots should generally be laid in, at the distance of a
foot or fifteen inches: from each other, rub off all the
others that have no clusters, and shorten those that have
at one joint above the uppermost cluster. For this pur-
pose, go over the plants every three or four days, till all
the shoots in fruit have shown their clusters, at the same
time rubbing off any water shcots that may rise from
the wood.

Train in the shoots to be retained, as they advance.
If there be an under trellis, on which to train the sum-
mer shoots, they may, when six or eight feet in length,
or when the Grapes are swelling, be let down to it, that
the fruit may enjoy the full air and light, as it advances
towards maturity. Such of these shoots as issue from
the bottom, and are to be shortened in the winter prune
ing’ to a few eyes, merely for the production of wood te
fill the trellis, may be stopped when they have grown
to the length of four or five feet. Others that are in-
tended to be cut down to about two yards, and which
issue at different heights, may be stopped when they
have run three yards, or ten feet, less or more, accord-
ing to their strength. And those intended to cut at, or
near to the top of the trellis, should be trained a yard
or two down the hack, or a trellis may be placed so as
to form an arbour; or they may be placed to run right

or lefta few feet on the uppermost wire.

The stubs or shoots on. which the clusters are placed,
will probably push again after being stopped, if the
plants be yigorous, If so, stop them again eee again ;

228 GRAPE. -

but after the fruit are half grown, they will seldom
spring. Observe to divest the shoots, in training, of all
laterals as they appear, except the uppermost on each, —
in order to provide against accidents, as hinted at above,
in training the new planted Vines. When these shoots
are stopped, as directed above, they will push again.
Allow the lateral that pushes to run a few joints, and
then shorten it back to one; and so on, as it pushes,
until it stop entirely. When the proper shoots get ri-
pened nearly to the top, ‘he whoie may be cut back to
the originally shortened. part, or to one joint above it,
if there be reason to fear that the uppermost bud of the
proper shoot will start.

Divest the plants of all damped and decayed leaves
as they appear, as such will sometimes occur in con-
tinued hazy weather, and be particularly cautious not
to injure the leaf that accompanies the bunch, for if that
is lost, the fruit will be of little value.

7 Every one of penetration and discernment,”’ Ni-
col observes, “ will admit the utility of thinning the
berries on bunches of grapes, in order that they may
have room to swell fully ; and further, that of support-
ing the shoulders of such clusters of the large growing
kinds as hang loosely, and require to be suspended to
the trellis or branches, in order to prevent the bad ef-
fects of damp or mouldiness in very moist seasons. Of.
these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy, Royal Muscadine,
Raisin, St. Peter’s, Syrian, Tokay, and others, should
have their shoulders suspended to the trellis, or to the
branches, by strands of fresh matting, when the berries
are about the size of garden peas. At the same time,
the clusters should be regularly thinned out with narrow
pointed scissors, to the extent of from a fourth to a third
part of the berries. The other close growing kinds,
as the Frontignacs, Muscats, &c., should likewise be
moderately thinned, observing to thin out the small -
seedless berries only of the Muscadine, Sweet Water,
and flame-coloured Tokay. In this manner, handsome
bunches and full swelled berries may be obtained ; but
- more so, if the clusters or over-burdened plants be also

MEDLAR. 229

moderately thinned away. Indeed, “cutting off the
clusters, to a certain extent, of plants "over-loaded, and
pushing weak wood, is the only. means by which to
cause them to produce shoots fit to bear fruit next year ;
and this should’ be duly attended to, so long as the fu-
ture welfare of the plants isa matter of importance.”

- The preceding observations may be considered as
falling short of what may be expected on the cultiva-
tion of so important a fruit as the Grape; but it is in-
troduced into this work only as a garden fruit. The
modes of training in vineyards and vineries, are alike
suited to the garden. Low training may be practiced
in borders or hedge rows, in large gardens ; and high
training in sheltered situations, on high trellises or ar-
bours. By proper management, the Vine may be ele-
vated to the middle story of a house by a single stem,
and afterwaids trained to a great height, according to
the taste of the proprietor. For observations on the
destruction of insects, the reader is referred to page 174
to 180. As the Vine is often trained near buildings, an
awning may be conveniently formed over the tops, so
as to admit of fumigating the Vine with smoke from to-
bacco, &c., as may be necessary in the summer season ;
or a sort of moveable tent may be made of light boards,
and cheap glazed linen, or an old sail, &c., capable of
covering the Vine while a smoke is created underneath ;
this will effectually destroy such insects as may annoy
the Vine, and may prevent mildew and other diseases.

MEDLAR. Neruier. Mespilus.

The Medlar is a small sized branching tree; the
branches woolley, and covered with an ash coloured
bark, and, in a wild state, covered with stiff spines.
Leaves a lanceolate, serrate; towards the point
.somewhat woolley, on very short channelled petioles.
Flowers produced on small natural spurs, at the ends
and sides of the branches; petals white. Fruit, a tur-
4 ha tase

230 MULBERRY.

binated berry, crowned with five calycine leaflets ; pulp.
thick, mixed with callose granules, and containing five
wrinkled stones. The tree is sometimes intro-
duced into an orchard for its fruit, which is called
by the French, Neffe, which signifies truncate (maim.)
It is eaten raw, in-a state of ineipient decay ; its taste
and flavour are peculiar, and by some esteemed. The
plant is a native of the south of Europe, but appears to
be. naturalized in some parts of England, where it is
raised in copses for binds, &c. _ The soil on which the
Medlar thrives best, is a loamy rich earth, rather moist
than dry, but not on a wet bottom.- There are five va-
rieties noticed in the Linnean Botanic:Garden Cata-
logue. The Dutch Medlar is considered the best.
Miller says, that if the stones are taken out of the fruit
as soon as itis ripe, and immediately planted, they will
come up the’spring following, and make good plants in
two years. It is rather difficult to strike by cuttings,
but may be grafted on seedlings of the wild Medlar, or
on other species of the same genus. .

‘The Medlar, like the Quince, is usually grown as a
standard or espalier. In pruning, cut out all dead and
cankery wood, and keep the tree thin of branches,
when it is desired to have large fruit. Care is requisite
to train standards with tall stems. LEspaliers will re-
quire a summer and winter pruning, as in the Apple
tree,

Sd

MULBERRY. Murter. Morus.

There are several species of the Morus or Mulberry.
The white kind is commonly cultivated for its leaves to
feed silk worms, though in some parts of Spain, and in
Persia they are said to prefer the Black Mulberry. In
China, it appears that both sorts are grown for. the
same purpose. The most esteemed variety of the white
is one grown in Italy, and especially in Lombardy, with
vigorous shoots, and much larger leaves than the other.

!

MULBERRY. 231

The Morus multicaulis is cultivated in many parts of

France, and is by some preferred to all other varieties.

Tt is said that a less quantity of foliage from this varie-

ty willsatisty the Silk worms. The late Andrew Par-

mentier, Esq., of Brooklin, was the means of intro-

ducing some of the best kinds into this country; and it:
is said that twelve different varieties are now cultivated

in Madame Parmentier’s Nursery at Brooklyn, N. Y.,

many of which have been tested and found to be the

true kinds. . aie

In France, the white Mulberry is grown as pollard
Elms are in England. In Lombardy, it is grown in
low marshy ground. In China, it is also grown in
moist loamy soil, and. both there and in the East Indies,
as low bushes, and the plantations rooted up and re-
newed every three or four years. In many parts, when
the leaves are wanted for the worms, they are stripped
off the young shoots, which are left naked on the tree ;
in other places, the shoots are cut off, which is not so
injurious to the tree, while the points of the shoots, as
well as the leaves, are eaten by the. worms. The plants
are sometimes raised from seed, and one ounce of seed
will produce 5000 trees, if sown in rich loamy soil, the
latter end of April, or early in May; but the young
plants will require protection the first winter; they are
more commonly propagated by layers and cuttings, put
down in the spring. ‘The Italian varietiy is frequently
grafted on seedling stocks of the common scrt, in order
to preserve it from degenerating. In the Kast Indies,
the plants are raised from cuttings, three or four of
which are placed together, where they,are finally to re-
main.

But Mulberry trees are valuable for their fruit; and
in England the black and red kinds are in great esteem,
and much cultivated. The fruit of the white Mulberry
is white, and less acid than that of the black species.
The black is naturally a stronger tree than the other ;
the fruit is of a dark blackish red, and of an agreeable
aromatic and acid flavour. The red Mulberry has black
shoots, rougher leaves than the black Mulberry, and a

%32 MULBERRY.

dark reddish fruit, longer than the common sort, and of
a very pleasant taste. The fruit of the yellow Mul-
berry is said to be sweet and wholesome, but not much
eaten, excepting by birds; the timber, however, is val-
uable, from its abounding ina slightly glutinous milk of
a sulphureous colour, and is known in Europe under the
namie of fustic wood, for dying a yellow colour.

In Russia, the fruit of the Morus tartarica is eaten
fresh, conserved, or dried; a wine and a spirit are also
made from them, but the berries are said to be of an in-
sipid taste. All the species of Morus are remarkable
for putting out their leaves late, so that when they ap-
pear, gardeners may safely set out their green-house
plants, taking it for granted that all danger from frost is
over; from this circumstance, plantations of Mulberry
trees may be made in this country, in the spring of the
year, with greater safety.

The Mulberry produces its fruit chiefly on little shoots
of the same year, which arise on last year’s wood, and
on spurs from the two year old wood ; in both stages,
mostly at the ends of the shoots and branches. In prun-
ing, thin out irregular crossing branches, but never shor-
ten the young wood, on which the fruit is produced. If
any of the dwarfish kinds are cultivated as espaliers for
their fruits, cut so as to bring in a partial succession of
new wood every year, and a complete succession once
in two years, taking the old barren wood out as may
be necessary. As the blossom buds cannot be readily
distinguished from others in the winter, the best period
for pruning is when the blossoms first become visible in
spring.

There is another genus of plants known as the Paper
Mulberry, which is very: ornamental, called Brousso-
netia papyrifera; though a low tree, it has vigorous
shoots, furnished with two large leaves ; the fruit, which
is small, is surrounded with long purple hairs, changing
to a black purple colour when ripe, and full of juice.
** In China and Japan, it is cultivated for the sake of
the young shoots, from the bark of which, the inhabit-~
ants of the eastern countries make paper. The bark

NECTARINE. " 233
being separated from the wood, is steeped in water, the
former making the whitest and best paper. The bark
is next slowly boiled, then washed, and afterwards put
upon a wooden table, and beat into a pulp. This pulp
being put in water, separates like grains of meal. An
infusion of rice, and the root of manhiot is next added
to it. From the liqour so prepared, the sheets of paper

_are poured out one by one, and when pressed, the ope-

ration is finished. !
‘“* The juice of this tree is sufficiently tenacious to be
used in China as a glue, in gilding either leather or pa-
per. The finest and whitest cloth worn by the pricipal
people at Otaheite, and in the Sandwich Islands, is
made of the hark of this tree. The cloth of the Bread
Fruit tree is inferior in whiteness and softness, and
worn chiefly by the common people.”

- 4 \ p
NECTARINE. Pecuer a Fruit uissz, ov Brog-
Nons. Amygdalus nectarina.

The varieties of this fruit resemble the Peach in eves
ry respect, except that the skin is perfectly smooth, of
a waxen appearance, and the flesh generally more firm}
although of the same genus as the Peach, which is so
plentiful in this country, the fruit of the Nectarine is
quite a rarity, and seldom appear in our markets. There
are seventy-two varieties cultivated in the Horticultural
Garden of London; and Nicol says, that *“ no varie-
ties of the Nectarine are at present known to have ori-
ginated in North America, except the Boston.”

It is generally allowed that their failure is occaS$ion-
ed by the attacks of insects) The most efficacious
method that I have heard of, for securing any thing like
a crop of Nectarines, is to fumigate the trees in the eve-
ning, when the air is calm and serene, at the season
when the fruit is ready to set, see page 175 to 180..
‘Tobacco is the most effectual antidote for insects; but
a friend of mine collected a quantity of salt hay that

234 NECTARINE.

had been used ‘as a covering for his spinach, the pre-
ceding winter; with this. he created a smoke, first on
one side of his plantation, and afterwards on the other,
by which means he obtained a good supply of fruit.
Our enteprising horticulturist, Mr. Wm. Shaw, has
succeeded in gathering fine fruit, by pursuing the Eng-
lish plan, namely, in training his trees against a close
fence ; and it’has been discovered by others, that the
Nectarine, like the Grape Vine, will vield best in shel-
tered situations. That eminent horticulturist, Mr. Da-
vid Thomas, observes, that ‘ a vast quantity of fruit
is naturally destroyed by a worm, which causes the
Plum, Apricot, and Nectarine prematurely to drop from
the tree. To prevent this loss, let the tree, after the
blossoms fall, be frequently shaken by a cord connected
with a swinging door, or witha working pump-handle,
&c.; or let the bugs be jarred from the 1 tree and killed.
Or keep geese or pigs enough in the fruit garden to de-
vour all the damaged fruit as it falls. We know that
this last method is infallible.’’

As some may object to shaking or jarring fruit trees,
for fear of disturbing the fruit, such may be reminded,
that if the blossums set more fruit than can be support- ~
ed, it will not come to full perfection, and the trees may
be injured in their future bearing; for these reasons,
when fruit sets too thick, it should be thinned in an ear-
ly stage of its growth.

The Nectarine is generally budded on disdlig of the
same species, or on Peach or Plum, two or three years
old. Knight recommends growing ‘Alniond stocks for
the finer kinds of Nectarines and Apricots, as likely to
prevent the mildew, and as being allied to the Peach.
Dubreuil recommends a Plum stock for clayey soils,
and the Almond for such as are light, chalky, or sandy,
The same opinion is held by the Montreul gardeners.
The Flemish nurserymen graft both the Peach and
Nectarine-on the Myrabella Plum, a very small cherry-
shaped fruit.

The budding may be performed in July or August,
in the side of the stock, which. will, if properly manag-

eres

ue 33

ORANGE, LEMON, &e. 235

ed, as the following spring, and attain the length of
three or four feet in a summer’s growth. Aftér the bud-
ded trees have ripened the first year’s shoots, they may
either be planted where they aie to remain, or retained
in the nursery for two, three, or four years, till in a
bearing state. Whether the piants be removed into the
orchard ata year old, or remain in the nursury, the first
shoots from the bud must be headed down in a judicious
manner, in order to promote the most desirable form:
Tn annual pruning, thin out superfluous branches and
dry wood, and shorten the bearing shoots.
Nectarines may be trained to a close fence or wall in
private gardens; in which case, such pianis should be
chosen as are budded low. See Apricot, page 191.

ORANGE, LEMON, &c. Orancer, Citronter,
&c. Citrus.

Notwithstanding this fruit, and also the Lemon, Lime,
&c., is attainable at all seasons of the year, by supplies
from the Southern States, the West Indies, and the
south of Europe, yet the plants are entitled to our no-
tice on account of their being so easily cultivated, and
from their affording an ornament in exhibiting ‘their
fruit the whole of the year.

‘The Orange, as well as others of the same genus, is
generally cultivated as a green-house plant, but may be
kept in a light room thoughout our severe winters, pro-
vided the temperature is not suffered to be below the.
freezing point, 32. Its recommendations are, hand-
some evergreen, shining tree-like forms ; most odorifer-
ous flowers, and brilliant, fragrant, delicious . fruits,
which succeed each other perpetually, and are not un-
frequently seen on the tree at the same time, in two or
three stages of growth. A work has recently been
published at Paris, edited by Messrs. Risso and Poi-
teau, which contains engravings and descriptions of

me ay
236 PE hese, LEMON, &c.

one hundred and sixty-nine vecemes: They are arrang-
ed as sweet Oranges, of which they describe 42 sorts ;
bitter and sour Oranges, 32 sorts; Bergamots, 5 sorts ;
Limes, 8 sorts; Shaddocks, 6 Saitsh ; Lumes, 12 sorts ;
Lemons, 46 sorts; Citrons, 17 pris, .

All the species of Citrus endure the open air at Nice,
Genoa, and Naples, but at Florence and Milan, and
often at Rome, they require protection during the win-
ter, and are generally placed in conservatories and
sheds. In England, these trees have been cultivated
since 1629; they are generally planted in conservato-
ries. Loudon says, that in the south of Devonshire,
and particularly at Saltcombe, may be seen, in a few
gardens, Orange trees that have withstood the winter
in the open air upwards of a hundred years. The fruit
is as large and fine as any from Portugal. Trees rais-
ed from seed, and inoculated on the spot, are found to
bear the cold better than trees imported. At Nuneham,
near Oxford, are some fine old trees, planted under a
moveable case, sheltered by a north wall. In summer,
the case is removed, and the ground turfed over, so that
the whole peseinles a native Orange grove. The au-
thor, being a native of Abingdon, whieh is within three
miles of the Earl of Harcourt’s estate at Nuneham, has
had frequent opportunities of tasting the fruit, which he
believes to be equal to that of warmer climates. At
Woodhall, near Hamilton, trees of all the species of
Citrus are trained against the back walls of forcing
houses, and produce large crops of fruit. Any of the
varieties of the Orange, Lemon, Lime, Shaddock, Ci-
tron, &c. may be grafted or budded on stocks of the
common. Orange or Lemon; but. the seeds of Shad-
docks and Citrons produce the strongest stocks ; and on
these may be engrafted such kinds as may be needed for
a conservatory. The most suitable time for budding, —
is July and August ; but this operation may be perform-
ed at any time when the sap is in motion. The direc-
tions for the management of green-house plants, page
144, apply to this family of plants, to which I refer
my readers. A friend of mine, who is a native of

PEACH. 0 7") 237

Rouen, in Normandy, informs me, that a Mr. Valee of
that city, succeeds in clearing about twelve thousand
francs per annum from the flowers of Orange trees,
which are distilled for essences, &c.

PEACH. Pecuer. Amygdalus Persica.

It is generally considered that the Peach is of Per-
sian origin. In Media, it is deemed unwholesome ;
but when planted in Egypt, becomes pulpy, delicious,
and salubrious. It has been cultivated, time immemo-
rial, in most parts of Asia; when it was introduced into
Greece, is uncertain. ‘The best Peaches in Europe
are supposed to be grown in Italy on standards.

The list of Peaches in the London Catalogue, con-
tains two hundred and twenty-four names, fifty of
which are denominated American Peaches. Several
attempts have been inade to class the varieties of Peach-
es and Nectarines by the leaf and flower, as well as the
fruit. Mr. Robertson, a nurseryman at Kilkenny, has
founded his ariangement on the glands of the leaves ;
and Mr. George Lindley of London, has, in a peculiar-
ly distinct manner, arranged no fewer than one hun-
dred and fifty-five sorts of Peaches and Nectarines in
well defined divisions and sections. ‘There are various
instances on record (Hort. Trans. Vol. I., p. 103,) of
both fruits growing on the same tree, even on the same
branch; and one case has occurred of a single fruit
partaking of the nature of both. The French consider
them as one fruit, arranging them in four divisions ; the
Péches, or free stone Peaches; the P’ches lisses, or
free stone Nectarines, or free stone smooth Peaches ;
the Pavies, o1 cling-stone Peaches; and :he Brognons,
or Nectarines, or cling-stone smooth Peaches.

Although this fruit will thrive in any sweet pulverized
soil that is properly prepared, a rich sandy loam is the
most suitable. Next to the selection and preparation of
a suitable soil, a choice of good healthy trees is of the

22

238 PEACH.

utmost importance. The seed for stocks should be se-
lected from ‘the fruit of vigorous growing, young, or mid-
dle aged healthy trees; and the buds should be taken
from some of the choicest fruit-bearing trees that can
be found. Letthe stocks be fairly tested before they
are budded, and if any infection exist in the stocks, or
in the vicinity of where the choice of buds may fall, re-
ject them, if you wish to rear a healthful progeny ; as
more depends on these particular points than many are
aware of.

In this country, the Peach is generally budded on
stocks of its own kind, but in England it is often
budded on damask Plum stocks, and some of the more
delicate sorts on Apricot stocks, or old Apricot trees
cut down; or on seedling Peaches, Almonds, or Nec-
tarines. See article Nectarine, page 233. Cobbet says,
‘¢ there are thousands of Peach trees in England and
France that are fifty years old, and that are still in vi-
gorous fruitfulness.” He attributes the ‘* swift decay
of the Peachtree here to their being grafted on stocks
of their kind.”

Care should be taken to keep the trees clear of in-
sects, by washing, fumigation, &c.; see article, page
174. A celebrated horticulturist, Mr. David Thomas,
very justly remarks, in page 29 of the 5th volume of
the New-York Repository, that ‘* could the insect Cur-
culio species be satisfied with three fourths of all. the
fruit that set on our trees, we should be great gainers
by keeping sucha fellow in our employment; for the
fruit would be larger, and far more delicious. But we
cannot restrain him within reasonable bounds, and we
must be content to thin it on the branches by our
thumbs and fingers. This is an important operation.
Without it, several varieties of these fruits. are not fit
for the table; and it is remarkable, that if the super-
numeraries are removed even so late as not visibly to.
affect the size of the remainder, still their flavour will
be greatly improved. Last season, our gros mignon
Peach tree was over-loaded, and the fruit comparatively
insinid ; yet after much the greater part had dropped

PEAR. 239

in the due course of ripening, we found the gleanings
to be really fine.”

As these and similar points are too little attended to,
I prefer giving entire extracts from the writings of emi-
nent horticulturists, to which I would strenuously in-
vite the attention of my readers, in every instance.
All the varieties of the Peach and Nectarine produce
the fruit upon the young wood of a year old, the blos-
som buds rising immediately from the eyes of the shoots.
The same shoots seldom bear after the first year, ex-
cept on some casual small spurs on the two years’ wood,
which is not to be counted upon. Hence the trees are
to be pruned as bearing entire'y on the shoots of the
preceding year, and a full supply of regular grown
shoots must be retained for successional bearers. Cut
- out the redundant shoots, and all decayed and’ dead
wood, and reduce some of the former bearers, cutting
the most naked quite away.

A Peach Orchard may be planted at any time after
the bud is established, until the trees are three or four
years old, which may be placed from fifteen to twenty
feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees.
The dwarf kinds may be introduced into the kitchen
garden, and trained against fences, as directed for the
Apricot, or as espaliers, or dwarf standards.

PEAR. Poyre. Pyrus.

The Pear tree, in its wild state, is thorny, with up-
right branches, tending to the pyramidal form, in which
it differs materially from the Apple tree. The twigs
or sprays hang down ; the leaves are elliptical, obtuse,
serrate; the flowers in terminating, villose corymbs,
produced from wood of the preceding year, or from
buds gradually formed on the several years’ growth, on
the extremities of very short protruding shoots, techni-
cally called spurs. It is found in a wild state in Eng-

240 PEAR.

land, and abundantly in France and Germany, as well
as in other parts of Europe, not excepting Russia, as
far north as lat. 51. It grows in almost ary soil. The
cultivated tree differs from the Apple, not only in hav-
ing a tendency to the pyramidal form, but also in being
more apt to send out taproots ; in being, asa seedling

plant, longer (generally from fifteen to eighteen years)
of coming into bearing ; and when on its own root, or
srafted on a wild Pear stock, of being much longer live
ed. Ina dry soil, it will exist for centuries, and still
keep its health, productiveness and vigour. There are
fewer good sorts of Pears in propoition to the aumber
of current varieties, than Apples. The Romans had
_ thirty-six varieties in Pliny’s time ; there are now seve-
ral hundreds in the French and British nurseries; the
London Horticultural Catalogue contains the names of
six hundred and twenty-two. Professor Van Mons, of
Brussels, and M. Duquessie, of Mons, fruited about
eight thousand seedling Pears, from which they obtain-
ed nearly eight hundred sorts worth cultivating, (Neil’s
Hort. Jour.) The varieties are divided by the French
into different classes of fruits, which are designated as
Beurrees, Crevers, and Poiree, &c.

Criterion of a good Pear.—Dessert Pears are cha-
racterized by a sugary aromatic juice, with the pulp soft
and sub-liquid, or melting, as in the Beurrees, or butter
Pears; or of a firm and crisp consistence, or breaking,
as in the winter Bergamots. Kitchen Pears should be
of a large size, with the flesh firm, neither breaking nor
melting, and rather austere than sweet. Perry Pears
may be either large or small ; but the more austere the
taste, the better will be the liquor; excellent perry is
made from the wild Pear.

Pear trees are raised from seed taken from the best
sorts, for the purpose of obtaining new varieties, or for
producing Pear stocks. In raising Pears for stocks, the
wild Pear is preferred in Europe, as being calculated
to produce plants more hardy and durable than the cul-
tivated sorts; and for dwarfing and precacity, the
Quince is preferred.

6

PLUM. 241

The Pear is a much handsomer upright growing tree
than the Apple ; more durable, and its wood hard and
valuable for the turner and millwright ; but its blossoms
being white, are less showy than those of the Apple. A
Pear Orchard may be planted at any time after the

trees are two years old from the graft; and as trees
from young stocks will not come into full bearing until
ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing with
care at any time within that period. They may be
planted at from twenty to thirty-five feet distance from
each other, according to the nature of the tree. The
dwarf varieties may be planted in the kitchen garden,
and trained either as espaliers or dwarf standards.
Pear trees will require but little pruning after the heads
are once formed ; in doing which, the branches should
be permitted to extend on all sides freely. Several
years may elapse before any cross-placed, very irregu-
lar, or crowded branches require pruning; yet there
are some kinds whose form of growth resembles the Ap-
ple; such will need frequent pruning. ‘‘ The Pear
tree,’ Mr. Phail says, ‘* does not produce blossoms on
the former year’s wood, as several other sorts of trees
do. Its blossom buds are formed upon spurs growing out
of wood over one year old, and consequently projecting
spurs all over the tree, must be left for that purpose.”
In some pears, Knight observes, ‘ the fruit grows only
on the inside of those branches which are exposed to
the sun and air ; in others, it occupies every part of the
tree.’ Withering says, that the French make perry,
or poire, from the fermented juice of the Pear, which
is little inferior to wine ; and that even the bad eating
kinds, pared and dried in the oven, will keep several
years with or without sugar.

PLUM. Prunter. Prunus.

The Plum tree rises fifteen feet in height, branching
into a moderately spreading head ; the leaves are ovate,
”

22

hi

242 PLUM.

serrated and on short petioles; petals white. . The na-
tural colour of the fruit is generally considered to be
black; but the varieties in cultivation are of yellow,
red, blue, and green colours, and of different forms and
flavours. There are several good sorts grow wild in
the hedges of Britain, and also in America, but its ori-
cinal country is supposed to be Asia; and according
to Pliny, it was taken from Syria into Greece, and from
thence into Italy. There are many varieties cultivat-
ed in France, and in the London Horticultural Garden
there are two hundred and ninety-eight sorts kept un-
der name. The green Gage is considered the best
dessert Plum, and the Wine-sour for sweetmeats ; but

i the. Damson is the best baking Plum.

- The Plum is said to succeed best in a lofty exposure,
and may yield well in the mountainous parts of the
United States ; it yields well near Albany, but the fruit
is by no means plentiful in the vicinity of the city of
New-York. Like the Nectarine, it is subject to the
attacks of insects. A correspondent, signed D. T., in
a communication to the editor of the New-York Far-
mer, page 60 of the third volume, remarks, that ‘‘ it
has long been observed that Plum trees growing in fre-
quented lanes, or barn-yards, were generally fruitful,
while those in secluded situations, as in gardens, were
more rarely productive.” The Jate Dr. Tilton has
shown that the treading of live stock round the trees,
made it not only more difficult for the worm to pene-
irate the ground, but that his escape from the fallen
fruit was rendered precarious by the approach of swine,

eager to convey his habitation and him in a different di-
rection.

Itis also stated that the Curculio is a timid animal;
that the passing of live stock round the trees alarmed
him ; and we know that rubbing of swine and cattle, or
any sudden jar, causes it instantly to drop to the .
ground. In accordance with these facts, some have

He _ kept their hogs among their Plum trees ; and a friend

- Tately told me, that in consequence, his Plum trees had
borne double during the last twelve years. This plan

PLUM. | 243
is much to be recommended among large trees; but
well grown and well fed hogs become wanton, and I
have several small trees greatly injured by their teeth,
and by their rubbing. Neither will their rooting make
amends for the trampling of the ground near small trees
in wet weather; I have, therefore, determined to dis-

charge these gentry during summer, and chiefly trust

the management of the fruit garden to the geese. Last
seasun, 1 was much pleased with the activity of these
birds ; scarcely a fallen Plum escaped them, which they

swallow without difficulty, and the worm is every mo-
“ment in danger.

Many trees stand in gardens, however, where neice
swine nor geese can be admitted ; and in such cases, I
would suggest the trial of a plan by which I destroyed
hundreds of these insects. Two large sheets made of
cheap factory cotton, were laid slightly to over-lap
with the tree at the centre. A stroke of the hand for
a small tree, or of a mallet for a large one, causes the
Curculio instantly to drop on the sheet. The dark
brown colour of the insects contrasts with the white
cloth, and it may at once be discovered, and easily de-
stroyed. ‘Though it may seem inanimate, it will almost
imperceptibly slide under the dead blossoms that fall
with it, and it then requires care to detect it. This pro-
cess is expeditiously performed by five persons, two to
each sheet, and one to strike the tree. I have strong
hopes from this experiment; and to begin with the
dropping of the blossoms, and to visit the trees two or
three times a day for several weeks, would probably
prevent any serious injury to the crop, and reduce these
insects to a scanty-remnant. New varieties of the
Plum are produced from seed ; and the old kinds are
generally propagated by buddings on stocks of free
growing Plums, in preference to grafting, because Plum
trees are very apt to gum wherever large wounds are
made inthem. All the sorts produce their fruit on
small natural spars rising at the ends and along the idee

of the bearing shoots of one, two, or three years: growth.
In most sorts, new fruit branches are two years old be-

244 QUINCE.

fore the spurs bear. The same ‘branches and spurs
continue fruitful in proportion to the time which they
take to come into bearing. After the formation of the
head.is begun, it takes from two to six years before the
different sorts come into bearing. Standards must be
allowed to expand in free growth, occasionally pruning
long ramblers and irregular cross branches. {n annual
pruning, thin crowded parts ; cut away worn out bear-
ers, and all decayed and cankery wood. The Plum
may be cultivated in small gardens, trained as espaliers,
or to a close fenee, like the Apricot, &c. The tree is
of further use chan for its fruit as a dessert, &c.; the
bark dyes yellow ; the wood is used by the turners ; ;
and the dried fiuit, or prune, is formed into electuaries
and gentle purgatives. Prunes were originally brought
from Damascus, whence their name. Cobbett attri-
butes the scarcity of Plums in New-York to neglect.
In his American Gardener, paragraph 320, he asks,
‘« how is it that we see so few Plums in America, when
the markets are supplied with cart-loads in such a chil-
ly, shady, and blighty country as England?”

QUINCE. Coienassinr. Cydonia.

Tle quince is of low growth, much branched, and
generally crooked and distoried. The leaves are
roundish or ovate, entire, above dusky green, under-
neath whitish, on short petioles. The flowers are
large, white, or pale red, and appearin May and June ;
the fruit, a pome, varying in shape in the different varie- —
ties, globular, oblong, or ovate; it has a peculiar and
rather disagreeable smell and austere taste. ‘J he fruit
takes it name from its being a native of the ancient
town of Cydon, in the Island of Crete; some suppose
it to be a corruption of Malus cotonea, by which the
Latins designated the fruit. It is used as a marmalade
for flavouring Apple pies, and making an excellent

RASPBERRY, &Xc. 245

sweetmeat ; and it has the advantage over many other
fruits for keeping, if properly managed. Of the seve-
ral sorts, the following are in greatest esteem: 1. The
oblong, or Pear Quince, with oblong ovate leaves, and
an oblong fruit lengthened at the base. 2. ‘The Apple |
Quince, with ovate leaves, anda rounder fruit. 3. The
Portugal Quince, the fruit of which is more juicy and
less harsh than the preceding, and therefore the most
valuable. It is rather a shy bearer, but is highly es-
teemed, as the pulp has the property of assuming a fine
purple tint in the course of being prepared as a marma-
lade. 4. The mild or eatable Quince, being less aus-
tere and astringent than the others.

The Quince produces the finest fruit when planted
in a soft moist soil, and rather shady, or at least shel-
tered situation. It is generally propagated by layers,
and also by cuttings, and approved sorts may be. per-
petuated by grafting. In propagating for stocks, no-
thing more is necessary than removing the lower shoots
from the layer, so as to preserve a clear stem as high
as the graft ; but for fruit bearing trees, it is necessary
to train the stem to a rod, till it-has attained four or
five feet in height, and can support itself upright. When
planted in an Orchard, the trees may be placed ten or
twelve feet apart. The time of planting, the mode of
bearing, and all the other particulars of culture, are the
same as for the Apple and Pear. The chief pruning
they require, is to keep them free from suckers, and cut
out decaying wood. |

RASPBERRY, &c. Framnpoisier, &c. Rubus.

There are several species of the Rubus found wild
in various parts of Asia, Europe, and America,
some of which have upright stems, others prostrate ;
the American Stone Bramble, and also the common

Blackberry, Dewberry, Cloudberry, &c. are of this fa-

o

246 RASPBERRY, &c.

mily. The Rubus idaeus, or common Raspberry,
grows spontaneously in the province of New Brunswick,
and in various parts of the United States, but most of
the cultivated varieties are supposed to have originated
in England. Loudon describes the true Raspberry as
having stems which are suffructicose, upright, rising to
the height of several feet, and are biennial in duration ;
but the root is perennial, producing suckers which ripen
and drop their leaves one year, and resume their foli-
age, produce blossom shoots, flower, and fruit, and die
the next. The leaves are quinate-pinnate ; the flow-
ers come in panicles from the extremity of the present
year’s shoots ; they are white, appear in May and June,
and the fruit ripens about a fortnight afterwards.

The fruit is grateful to most palates, as nature pre-
sents it, but sugar improves the flavour ; accordingly, it
is mila estemeed when made into sweetmeats, and for
jams, tarts, and sauces. It is fragrant, subacid, and
cooling; allays heat and thirst. It is much used in
distilling ; Raspberry syrup is next to the Strawberry
in dissolving the tartar of the teeth; and as, like that
fruit, it does not undergo the acetous fermentation in the
stomach, it is recommended to gouty and rheumatic pa-
tients.

Nicol enumerates twenty-three species and varieties.
of the cultivated Raspberry, and twenty-one of the Ru-
bus ronce, or Bramble ; of the latter, is included the
American red and black Raspberry, and the Long Isl-
and. and Virginian Raspberry. The English varieties
are, early Small white ; Large white ; Large red ; most
Large red Antwerp 5 Large vellow Antwerp ; Page or
sivout stalked ; T.wice bearing white ; Twice bearing
red ; Smooth cane, twice bearing ; ; Woodward’s Rasp-
berry. Prince’s Catalogue contains twenty-seven
names, amongst which are, Brentford red; Brentford
white ; Flesh coloured ; Barnet red, fine; Pennsylva- ©
nia; Cretan red; Prolific red; Canada purple rose
flowering, &c. The varieties can be perpetuated by
young sucker shoots, rising plenteously from the root
in Spring and summer ; when these have completed one

STRAWBERRY. 247

season’s growth, they are proper to detach with roots
for planting, either in the autumn of the same year, or
the next spring, in March or early in April. These
new plants will bear some fruit the first year, and fur-
nish a succession of strong bottom shoots for full bear-
ing the second season. New varieties are raised from
seed, and they come into bearing the second year.

Raspberry beds are in their prime about the third
and fourth year ; and if well manoged, continue in per-
fection five or six years, after which they are apt to de-
cline in growth, and the fruit to become small, so that
a successive plantation should be provided in time. Se-
lect new plants from vigorous stools in full perfection as
to bearing. Be careful to favour the twice bearers with
a good mellow soil, in a sheltered situation, in order
that the second crop may come to perfection.

When Raspberries are cultivated on a large scale, it
is best to plant them in beds by themselves, in rows
from three to five feet apart, according to the kinds. In
small gardens they may be planted in detached stools,
or in single rows, in different parts of the garden, from
the most sunny to the most shady aspect, for early and
late fruit of improved growth and flavour.

It is requiste to cut out the dead stems early in the
spring, and to thin and regulate the successional young
shoots ; at the same time, the shoots retained should be
pruned at the top, below the weak bending part, and
some’ rotten dung worked in around the roots of the
plants. Keep them clear of weeds during the summer,
by hoeing between the rows; at the same: time eradi-
caie all superfluous suckers, but be careful to retain
enough for stock in succeeding years.

oe

STRAWBERRY. Frasier. Fragaria. .

This is a genus of fruit bearing herbaceous plants, of
which there are few in the vegetable kingdom that can

248 STRAWBERRY.

equal the Strawberry in wholesomeness and excellence.
The fruit is supposed to receive its name from the an-
cient praclice of laying straw between the rows, which
keeps the ground moist and the fruit clean. They are
natives of temperate or cold climates, as of Europe and
America. ‘The fruit, though termed a berry, is, in cor-
rect botanical language, a fleshy receptacle, studded
with seeds. It is universally grateful alone, or with
sugar, cream, ot wine, and has the property, so valua-
ble for acid stomachs, of vot undergoing the acetous
fermentation. Physicians concur in placing Strawber-
ries in their small catalogue of pleasant remedies ; they
have properties which render them, in most conditions
of the animal frame, positively salutary ; they dissulve
the tartareous incrustations of the teeth; they promote
perspiration. Persons afflicted with the gout, have
found relief from using them very largely; so have pa-
tients in cases of the stone ; and Hoffman states that he
has known consumptive people cured by them. The
bark of the root is astringent. ;

In cultivating the Strawberry, an open situation and
sich loamy soil, rather strong, is required for most varie-
ties ; and from their large mass of foliage and flowers,
they must, till the fruit is set, have copious supplies of
water. The row culture is best calculated to produce
fruit; and frequent :enewal insures vigorous plants as
well as large fruit. Some make beds of single rows
from twelve to eighteen inches apart, according to the
sorts; others form a bed with two rows eighteen inches
asunder. If several beds be intended, a space of two
feet may be left between each bed as a path; and in the
second or third season, the paths may be manured and
dug, to admit of the runners taking root; by this means,
a renewal may be made so often, and the old stools being
taken away, leaves spaces between the beds as before.
Or new plantations may be made every season ; as af-
ter the roots are fairly established, they multiply sponta-
neously every summer, as well by suckers from the pa-
rent stem, as by the numerous runners ; all of which,
rooting and formiug a plant at every joint, require only

SrRAWBERRY. 248

removal to a spot where there is room for them to fiour-
ish. If taken off and planted in rows in August and
September, they will produce fine fruit the following
season, and will bear in full perfection the second sum-
mer. A plantation of the Alpine yields fruit the same
year that it ismade. The Wood and the Alpine come
regularly from seed, from which finer fruit may be pro-
duced than. from ofisets. The other species are uni-
formly propagated by offsets, except the intention be to
try for new varieties. The Alpine and Wood species
may be planted in situations rather cool and shady, in
order that they may produce their fruit late in the sea-
son, which is desirable. . The Strawberry, with a little
trouble of choosing a succession of sorts, may be forced
so as to be had at the dessert every month in the year ;
. though during the winter months they have not much
flavour.

Some gardeners lay straw an inch or two thick over
their beds in March, and set fire to it, in order to pro-
mote a stocky growth of plants and early fruit; others
recommend. mowing off the tops of such plants as are
not required to fruit early, while they are in blossom,
with a view to obtain a crop of Strawberries late in the
season. The London Horticultural Catalogue contains
the names of one hundred and twenty-one varieties of
all the species; which are classed according to their
nature, colour, &c. Class 1. Scarlet Strawberries ; 2.
Black Strawberries; 3. Pine Strawberries; 4. Chili
Strawberries; 5. Hautbois Strawberries; 6. Green
Strawberries ; 7, Alpine and Wood Strawberries. To
select all the most esteemed from this or any other ex-
tensive catalogue, is a difficult task; the following de-
scription of species and varieties may serve to direct
the choice:

1. The Wood Strawberry, (Fragaria vesca,) with
oval serrated leaves; the fruit red, white, and green,
which is round and small. A native of Britain.

2. The Scarlet, (Fragaria Virginiana,) with leaves
like the preceding; the fruit roundish and scarlet co-
loured. A native of Virginia. Varieties, Early Scarlet,

| 23

250 STRAWBERRY..

Wilmot’s Lite’ Common late, Wilmot’s cockscomb
scarlet.

3. The Roseberry, (Fragaria virg. var.) an Aber-
deen seedling introduced in 1810. ‘The plants have
few roundish leaves; larger fruit thin the scarlet, and
are very prolific ; continues bearing till August.

4, The Downton, (Fragaria virg. var.) The fruit
is large, irregular, and coxcomb-like ; leaves large ;
plant hardy and prolific.

5. The Carolina, (Fragaria Carolinensis;) colour
red ; a native of America.

6. The Musky, or Hautbois, (Fragaria elatier, )
with oval rough javelin-edged leaves ; the fruit large, of
a pale red colour ; a native of Britain.

vv Fhe Chili, (Fragaria Chiliensis,) with large,
oval, thick, hairy leaves, and large flowers; the fruit
large and very firm; a native of South America.

8. Keen’s Imperial, or new Chili, (ragaria Chil.
var.) raised by Mr. Keen, of [sleworth, a most excel-
lent bearer, ripening early.. The fruit is very large ; the
flesh firm and solid, without any separable core ; colour
scarlet.

9. The Pine, (Fragoria grandiflora,) the leaves
small and delicate. ‘There are two sorts, the red and
the white, or greenish tinted, of this most rich flavou-
ed fruit. Knevet’s seedling produces large fruit of ex-
cellent flavour.

10. The Alpine, or Prolific, (£ragaria collina,)
which commonly lasts from June tt!l November, and in
mild seasons, til! near Christmas ; two sorts of the fruit,
we ns and the white. Alps of !-urope.

. The one leaved, (#’ragaria monophylla,) the
ie ‘of the fruit, pink- -coloured a native of South
America.

12. The Grove End scarlet Strawberry, a seedling
raised by Wm. Atkinson, Esq. in his garden at Grove
End Marylebone, in the year 1829; an excellent bear-
er, ripening its berries early and in ‘succession,

‘All the species and varieties of this fruii are highly
estimated in Britain, where they are cutie in great

WALNUT. 251

perfection. Berries have been known to weigh from

one to two ounces, which have been grown to the cir-

cumference of eight inches and upwards. It may be

gratifying to the lovers of ihis excellent fruit, to be in-

formed that some. of the best kinds are attainable here.
Messrs. Prince, Floy, Wilson, and others, are intro-

ducing some of the choicest kinds into their nurseries 5

and one of our patriotic fellow-citizens, Jesse Buel,
Esq., of the Albany Nursery, informs us in the Albany
Argus of June 23. 1830, that he has grown the Down-
ton (a variety of the Chili crossed by Mr. Knight,) two
years in succession, 4% inches in circumference. He
said he picked a pail that morning of the Methven scar-
let Strawberry, which had an average circumference of
three incheseach. Several measured four inches, and
one four and a quarter inches. Sixty-three, divested of
the calyx, weighed a pound, which is a trifle more than
four to the ounce. Several of the choicest kinds have
been lately transplanted from the London Society’ s
garden into the Aikany Nuisery.

WALNUT. Nover. Juglans.

From the circumstance of our having an abundance
of the fruit, from the many species of this genus of trees
growing spontaneously around us, it is presumed that
the culture of the Juglans regia, commonly called Eng-
lish Walnut, or Madeira Nut, has been neglected by
many of our citizens. It is a native of Persia, and is
cultivated in France, England, and in other parts of
Europe, both as a fruit and timber tree. The fruit in —
England is much used in a green state for pickling, and
also as an adulteration of soy sauce. In France, an
oil which supplies the place of that of Almonds, is made
from the kernel. In Spain, they strew the gratings of
old and hard nuts, first peeled, into their tarts and other
meats. The leaves strewed on the ground, and left

252 ‘WALNUT.

there, annoy worms or moles, or macerated in warm
waier, afford a liquor which will destroy them. The
unripe fruit is used in medicine for the purpose of de-
stroying worms in the human body. Pliny says, ‘‘ the
more Walnuts one eats, with the more ease will he drive
worms out. of the stomach.”” The timber is considered
lighter, in proportion to its strength and elasticity, than
any other, and therefore commonly used in England for
gun-stocks. Jt is used-in cabinet work in most parts
of Europe ; the young timber is allowed to make ‘the
finest coloured work, but the old to be finest variegated
for ornam.nt. When propagated fer timber, the nut is
sown; but when-fruit is the object, inarching from the
branches of fruit-bearing irees is preferable. Budding
is also practiced by some ; the buds succeed best when
taken from the base of the annual sheots 3 ordinary siz-
ed buds from the upper part ef such sheots generally
fail. Walnut trees that have not been grafted or bud-
ded, may be induced to produce blossoms by ringing
the bark, that is, cutting out a streak of the bark around
the body or main branches of the tree. Walnut trees
seldom yield much fruit until fifteen or twenty years
old; it is produced on the extremities of the preceding
year’s ‘shoots. The trees should stand forty or fifty
feet apart, and they may be permitted to branch out in
their natural order, They need but little praning,
merely to regulate any casual disorderly growth, to re-
duce over-extending branches, and to prune up the low
stragglers.

Lest any of our native Walnuts should be neglected
or abandoned by any, I annex a description of the dif
ferent kinds :

Juglans catharticus, is known under the name of Bute
ternut, Oilnut, and white Walnut ; these nuts are used
by the Indians asa medicine. |

vuglans nigra, the black Walnut, is a tree of large
size 5 its fruit is known to be excellent.

Juglans olivueformis, Pecan or Ilinois nut, is deli-
cious. The nuts of Juglans sulcata, which is called
thick shell bark, Hickory, and Springfield, and Glou-

WHORTLEBERRY. 253

cester nut, are large and well tasted. The shell bark
Hickory, shag bark, or scaly bark Hickory, Juglans
alba, is so called on account of its bark, which is torn
lengthwise in long loose strips, as in J. sulcata. The

uglans tomentosa, the Mucker nut, white heart Hick-
ory, or common Hickory, and most of the other kinds
enumerated are worth preserving ; or cultivating where
there is none, for its timber for mechanical purposes ;
and that of the Juglans glabra, or Hog nut, is useful for
brooms, &c.

WHORTLEBERRY. Atrevte. Vaccinium.

Of the species of this genus, the berries of many are
known to furnish Raa oe tarts, not however so
good as the genus Oxycoccus, or Cranberry, with the
exception of Vaccinium vitis ‘Tdaea, which is the kind
that bears what a+e called Cranberries in the Highlands
of Scotland, and which are of very excellent quality.
There are twenty three species and varieties of this fa-
mily of plants cultivated in the Horticultural Garden at
Chiswick ; and the Linnzan Botanic Garden Catalogue
contains the names of twenty-five sorts, comprising the
Deerberry, Bilberry, American Cowberry, &c. As
many sorts uf fruits, which only a few years ago were
lightly esteemed, are now much cultivated, as being |
highly sae it is necessary to introduce such
plants into notice as are in the least calculated to add
_to the resources of the human species, it being gene-
rally admitted that culture will accomplish onder

The Vaccinium myrtilius, or Bilberry, is an elegant
and also a fruli-bearing plant; the young fresh green
leaves ani wax-like red flowers appear in May, and to-
wards autumn the leaves grow darker and more firm.
The ripe berries are used in England for tarts, and in
Poland they are eaten with clotted cream. Withering
says the berries are very acceptable to children, either

OMe

254 WHORTLEBERRY.

eaten by themselves, or with milk, or in tarts. The
moor game live upon them in the autumn ; the juice
stains paper or linen purple. The berries have an as-
tringent quality ; and in Arturn and the Western Isles, |
are given in diarrboeas and dysenteries with good effect.
Tie Highlanders eat them with milk, and make them
into tarts and jellies, which last they mix with whiskey,
to give tt a relish. The Vaccinium ullignosum, or great
Bilberry, grows taller than the common Bilberry, and
has large globular black, glaucous fruit. These have
less flavour, but abound with a weak acid ]j juice. Lion
says, if the fruit be eaten in large quantities, it occasions
giddiness and a slight headache, especially when full
grown and quite ripe. Withering says, that many vint-
ners in France are said to make use of the juice to co-
four their wines red. ‘They furnish an ardent spirit,
which is highly volatile and intoxicating.

The Vaccinium vitis idaea is of very ~ humble growth,
and almost herbaceous, though evergreen. The ber-
ries are red, acid, astringent, and bitter. They are
scarcely-to be eaten raw, and though made into pies in
Derbyshire, where they are called Cowberries, their
flavour is considered inferior to the Cranberry. ** They
are in great esteem in Sweden, prepared as a rob or
jelly, which is eaten with roast meat, and is considered
far preferable to currant jelly as a sauce for venison,
&c. It is an excellent medicine in colds, sore throats,
and all irritation of the mouth or fauces.”-—(Smith Brit.
and Eng. Bot.) Dr. Clarke says that they are sent in
large quantities from West Bothnew to kine ite 9 for
pickling.

The Vaccinium tenellum, or Pennsylvania blue ber-
ried Whortleberry, is a very good fruit. Fora further |
description of the several species and varieties of this
genus of plants, which are indigenous in America, as
well as in Europe and Asia, the reader is referred to
-Prince’s Catalogue of Fruit trees, &e. The mode of
culture recommended for ihe Cranberry, is calculated
to suit this description of plants also. a

CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES. 255
‘ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY.

In the choice of fruit trees. all possible care and at-
tention is necessary ; for to have, trees that do not an-
swer the expectations of the proprietor is a great dis- —
appointment. As the young gardener may need such
directions as are calculated to govern him in his
choice, I shall endeavour to furnish them, Of what-
ever species or variety of fruit trees are wanted, choose
those that are vigorous and straight, and of a healthy
appearance. Whether they have been grafted or bud-
ded, be careful to select such as have been worked on
young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old
crooked stunted stocks, seldom succeed well. Trees
that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining
bark ; such as are mossy, or have a rough wrinkled
bark, or are the least affected by canker, should be re-
jected. Canker is discoverable in the young wood,
and generally two or three inches above the graft or
bud. Ifthe tree be an Apricot, Nectarine, Peach or
Plum, and any gum appears on the lower part of it, do
not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if a dwarf)
be worked about six inches from the ground, and only
one graft or bud should be upon each stock, for when
there are more, the tree cannot be brought to so hand-
some a form. r

In some of the preceding articles, I have shown
that some description of trees may be transplanted
with safety, even when far advanced in growth, When
trees of four or five years’ growth, after heading down,
that are healthy and well furnished with fruit-bearing
wood, close up to the centre of the tree, can be obtain-
ed, they will’do very well; but great care is requisite in
taking up, removing and planting such. Let the tree be
taken up with as great a portion of the roots as possible,
taking care not to bruise, split, or damage them ; for
want of attention to these points, trees often become
diseased. Whenever (notwithstanding all'due caution)
any roots having been accidentally broken, split, or
otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them be cut

24

256 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES.

off; or if they cannot be well spared, let the damaged or
bruised part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and an
application of the following composition be spread over
the wound, in order to keep the wet from it, which would
otherwise injure the tree. ‘To equal parts of soft soap
and tar, add a little bees’ wax; let them be boiled to-
gether, and when cold, they may be used. ‘The neces-
sity of pruning-in and dressing mangled roots, is more
particularly required in trees of the stone fruit, such as
Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, Nc. ; for with-
out the application of some remedy, they gum at the
roots, which defect, if not counteracted, very materially
injures the upper part of the trees, which may become
so affected as never to recover afterwards; therefore,
great care should be taken not to occasion such injury ;
and when accidents happen, all due caution and appli-
cation is necessary, to promote a healthy and vigourous
growth.

A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots
nearly corresponding to the branches, at least, it should
have one strong root in asimilar proportion to the bole of
the tree, with a proper distribution of branching fibres.
Healthy roots are always smooth and clear, the colour
of them varies a little according to the sort of the tree.
but the older the roots are, the darker the colour is.

After the tree is taken up, be careful in conveying it
to the place where it is to be planted, so that the roots
are not chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed
a considerable distance, they should be well guarded by
straw or otherwise, in order to prevent injury. All
damaged bruised roots should be pruned as soon as the
tree is taken up, but if it be necessary to prune away
any sound goed roots, such pruning should be delayed
until the time of planting. In pruning away roots, al-
ways let them be finished by a clear cut, and in a slop-
ing direction, letting the slope be towards the under
stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to lodge
upon the part so cut. When trees are planted at an
advanced ‘season, in the spring of the year, it will be
necessary to prune the tops; and if trees are removed

CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES. 957

that have been trained three or four years, and. are not
properly supplied with young wood, they must be cut
down either wholly or partially, in order to obtain a
sufficiency. In practising this upon Apricot and Nec-
tarine trees, &c., always prune so as to have a leading
shoot close below the cut, as it is very rare they will
push a shoot below, unless there be a lead. This at-
tention is not so particularly required in the Pear, &c.,
as such will generally push forth shoots, although no
leading ones were left: but in all kinds the younger
the wood is, the more certain are shoots to be pro-
duced. Ifa tree that has been under training for one or
two years, should have only one good strong leading
shoot, and two or three weaker ones which do not pro-
ceed from it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away,
and shorten the strong one, from which a handsome
head may afterwards be formed. For further direc-
tions, as respects pruning and planting fruit trees, &c.,
the reader is referred to the articles from page 165 to
188, on these subjects; and as respects any species of
fruit in particular, directions will be found under its dis-
tinct head.

In order to assist the reader to make a judicious
choice of fruit trees, I have furnished a short descrip-
tion of such sorts as can be best recommended. Pre-
vious to making this selection, I carefully perused
* Prince’s Pomological Manual,” also such parts of
‘¢ Kenrick’s American Orchardist,” and ‘ Lindley’s
Guide to the Orchard and Kitchen Garden,” as was ap-
plicable to my subject ; besides, these important guides,
{ had the select catalogues of different nurserymen be-
fore me, and have chosen such only as have been most
generally recommended ; in doing this, J have had diffi-
culties to contend with, the nature of which none but
those who have duly considered the subject can form
any idea. ‘The facility with which seedling plants are
raised, and the paternal fondness with which people are
apt to regard their own seedlings, have occasioned hun-
dreds of names to appear in the various catalogues

258 APPLE TREES.

which tend not a little to swell the large and increasing
list of fruits. |

In many instances, the English, French, Spanish and
other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given
to the same variety, consequently some fruits appear
in the different catalogues under all the varied names 5
and the patience and labour necessarily requisite for
ascertaining what are worthy of cultivation, and what
are really distinct varieties, is correspondingly great.

The annexed list and description of the first fifty
varieties of apples, was politely furnished by William
R. Prince, Esq., author of the “* Pomological Manual,”
«“ Treatise on the Vine,” &c.; in making out the other
lists, I have generally adopted the names given in the
catalogue of Michael Floy and Sons of the Harlaem
Nursery, as a heading ; and have caused the synonims
or names by which the same variety is known or has
been called, to be printed in italics, thus, my lists of
about 300 varieties of the various sorts of fruit, will
embrace what has been deemed by some, as different
varieties, perhaps to the number of a thousand.

APPLES.

1: June EATING, Juniting, or Geniton.—The fruit is small, of
a roundish form, and yellow colour; it ripens in July; the pulp is
tender and juicy; the tree a good bearer, and of small, low
growth.
~ 9. Barty rep Marearet, or red June eating.—The fruit is
small and roundish; colour red striped ; the pulp sweet, and of
pleasant flavour ; it ripens in July.

3. Spring Grove.—The fruit small, and of a conical form,
and pale green colour; it is ripe in July, and continues till Sep-
tember; the pulp is soft and juicy; tree hardy, a great bearer,
and the fruit chiefly used in the kitchen.

4. Prince’s YeLLow Harvesr.—The fruit of a medium size,
depressed ; of a pale yellow colour; the pulp is tender, slightly
acid, but of an excellent flavour ; ripens in July.

5. Sinequanon.—The fruit of medium size, roundish, but
somewhat depressed ; of a greenish colour, and very high flavour-
ed; ripe in July.

6. Waite Astracan.—The fruit is roundish, angular at the
sides, of medium size ; the colour whitish, faintly streaked with
red on the sun side, and covered with a white bloom ; it mpens
in August, and the pulp is very tender, pleasant and delicate.

APPLE TREES. 959

7. GotpEN Pearmain.—The fruit large, roundish, and of a
deep red and yellow colour; it ripens in August, and continues
till October ; pulp soft and sweet ; a hardy tree, but not large; a
good bearer, and the fruit much esteemed. ;

8. Suear Loar Pirpin.—The fruit of medium size, ovate, or
oblong; of a pale yellow colour; the pulp firm, but juicy, and of
a highly pleasant flavour; it ripens early in August.

9, HawrHornDEeN.—The fruit is large, and rather flat, and of
a pale green colour; it ripens in August, and continues till Janua-
ry; the pulp soft, juicy, and acid; avery hardy tree; a great
bearer, and the fruit good for all kitchen purposes.

10. Rep ann Green Sweerine.—The fruit large, of oblong
shape; green colour, striped with red; ripens in August and
September. The pulp is very sweet, tender, and of pleasant
flavour.

11. Borsporr.—Fruit medium size, conical form, and of a
yellow green colour; it ripensin September, and continues till
February ; the pulp is firm, and of an aromatic flavour; tree of
low growth, a middling bearer, but an excellent fruit for the table.

12. Faz Pirrin. —The fruit very large, of a roundish shape ;
yellow colour; the pulp very tender, and of good flavour; ripens
in September and October.

13.;O_p Go.tpEen Pierin.—The fruit small, roundish, and a
gold yellow color; it ripens in September and October; flesh
firm and sweet, fit both for the dessert and kitchen.

14. Pumpkin Sweetine.—Fruit large, of pale yellow colour;
pulp very sweet and pleasant; ripens in October and November.

15. American Nonpareit.—Fruit large and flat; colour
yellowish ground, striped with red; pulp very tender, juicy, and
high flavoured ; ripens in October and November.

16. Newrown Sprirzensure.—The fruit of medium: size,
roundish and depressed ; colour of a pale yellowish ground,
greenish where shaded, but red next the sun; pulp very sweet,
rich and pleasant; ripens in October and November.

17. Woop’s TraNsParRENtT.—Fruit small and flat, and of a
green and yellow colour; ripensin October, and continues till
February; flesh firm and juicy; hardy tree, great bearer, and ex-
cellent fruit.

18. Sweet Boven.—Fruit large, ovate, of pale yellow colour ;
tender, sweet, and pleasant in flavour; ripens in August.

19. Rissrone Pippin.—Fruit of medium size, roundish, and
partially depressed; of a pale yellow colour, tinged with red ;
pulp slightly acid, and of fine flavour; ripens in November, and
continues till April.

20. Ruope IsLanp Greenine.—Fruit large and depressed, of
a greenish colour; slightly acid, and of fine flavour; ripens in
November, and continues till Apmil.

21. Hottanp Prepin.—Fruit medium size, ovate form, and of
a gold and green colour; it ripens in October, and continues til
February; flesh crisp and firm; tree hardy and large; a good
bearer, and much esteemed fruit.

24 *

260 APPLE TREES.

22. Seek No FurtHER.—Fruit of medium size, depressed; of
a whitish colour; flesh very tender, and of pleasant flavour; ri-
pens in November, and continues till March.

23. Esopus Sprirzenpurc.—Fruit large and oval ; of red co-
lour ; flesh yellowish; slightly acid, and of the finest flavour;
ripens in October, and continues till February. :

24. Pennock Rep WinteR.—Fruit very large and compress-
ed; of deep red colour; flesh tender, juicy, and of sweet and
pleasant flavour; ripens in November.

25. Fiusuine Sritzensure.—Fruit large, roundish, some-
what compressed; red striped colour, and of sweet and pleasant
flavour; ripens in November, and continues till March.

26. Rep Winter Sweetine.—Fruit large and compressed ;
of reddish colour; and of sweet and delicious flavour; ripens in
November, and continues till March.

27. Green Newtown Pippin.—Fruit medium size, com-
pressed ; of pale green colour; flesh very high flavoured; ripens
in December, and keeps till June.

28. Brincewoop Piprin.—Fruit small, nearly globular; colour
bright yellow, tinged with red, pulp exceeding sweet, and highly
perfumed.

29. Downton Pippin.—Fruit of moderate size, cylindrical,
flattened at the ends; of yellow colour, with numerous specks ;
flesh firm, rich and subacid; ripens in October and November.

30. Enetish Nonpareit.—Fruit of medium size, and flat ;
of a greenish yellow colour, witha slight russet; flesh firm, rich
and aromatic; ripensin November, and continues till May.

31. FenoviLLet Gris.—Fruit rather small, roundish, ovate, of
a yellowish gray colour, with a slight russet; pulp tender, saccha-
rine, and high flavoured; ripens in November, and continues
good till February.

32. Rep Winter Catvitze.—Fruit large and oblong, of a
pale red colour, deeper next the sun; flesh tender and of pleasant
flavour; ripens in November.

33. Dreper’s Beauty or Witts.—Fruit medium size and
oval form, of a bright yellow, spotted with red ; it ripens in Oc-
tober, and lasts till March; pulp firm and juicy; a great bearer,
and the fruit good for all kitchen purposes.

34. Orrtey Pippin.—Fruit of large size, pale yellow colour,
often a tinge of red on the sunny side; flesh firm and high fla-
voured ; ripens in November, and lasts till April.

35. Lemon Prprin.—F ruit of medium size, oval shape ; colour
yellowish green; flesh firm, pleasant, but not high flavoured ;
ripens in October, and lasts till March.

36. Brenner Piepin.—Fruit large, roundish, of a yellowish
colour, tinged with red next the sun; pulp sweet and high fla-
voured ; ripe in November, and keeps till March.

37. GRAVEINSTEIN.—Fruit rather large and compressed ; of a
yellowish green colour, striped with red, and high flavoured ; ri-
pens in October, and lasts till January.

38. ALEXANDER.—FTruit very large, somewhat cordate, smallest

APPLE TREES. 961

at the crown; of a greenish yellow colour, striped or marbled
with red ; pulp tender, sweet, rich and aromatic; ripens in Oc-
tober, and lasts till February. Though a large, hardy tree, it is
‘a medium bearer, but a magnificent fruit. y

39. FranxLin GoLpEen Pippin.—Fruit a medium size, conical,
of a golden yellow colour, with gray and dark coloured specks ;
‘it ripens in November, and continues till March ; flesh firm, and
highly aromatic ; tree rather slender, and middling bearer, but an
excellent fruit.

40. Ramsour Franc.—Fruit large and compressed ; of pale
yellow colour, tinged with red ; flesh tender, with a slight acidity;
ripens in October and November.

41, Newark Kine.—Fruit large, oval shape; colour red,
striped with yellow; the pulp of pleasant flavour; npens in Oc-
tober, and lasts till January.

42. PriestLy.—Fruit large, oblong; of a dull red colour,
faintly striped ; the flesh of pleasant and aromatic flavour; ripens
in December, and continues till April.

43, Hucues’ Gotpen Pirpin.—Fruit small, round, but par-
tially depresséd ; of yellow colour, with numerous specks;, flesh
firm, juicy, rich, pungent and agreeable; ripens in October, and
lasts till January.

44, Beauty of Kent.—Fruit rather large, and of irregular
shape ; of a yellowish green colour, mottled with red ; flesh firm
and juicy, with a pleasant acid flavour ; ripens in October, and
continues till January.

45. Monstrous Pipprm.—F ruit of enormous size, often weigh-
ing twenty-five ounces or more ; of a pale lemon colour; flesh
tender, and of sprightly flavour, excellent for cooking ; ripens in
October, and continues fit for use till January.

46. Lone Istanp Russet.—Fruit of medium size, depressed ;
russetty colour, and of pleasant flavour; ripens by November,
and continues till March.

47, WinTER Sweet Pearmain.—Fruit small, roundish; of
a dull red colour, with green stripes; pulp very sweet, and of
peculiar flavour; ripens in November, and keeps till March.

48. Lapy Appts, or Pomme D’apis.—Fruit small, flat; of pale
yellow colour, tinged with a deep red on the side; flesh crisp,
sprightly and pleasant; ripens in November, and continues till

pril.

49. Pomme Grise.—Fruit rather large, somewhat depressed;
russetty ; of pleasant flavour; ripens in November, and lasts
till March. : ,

50. Norrotx Beaurin.—Fruit middling size, flattish, and a
deep red and pale greencolour ; itripens in November and Decem-
ber, and lasts till August; flesh firm and savoury ; tree hardy and
upright, and a good bearer; fruit excellent for use in the kitchen.

51. Earty Crorron, or Irish Peach Apple.—An Irish apple, of
the middle size and flattish shape; of an olive green colour,
much variegated with red; has a rich saccharine flavour; ripens
in August; itis much esteemed for the dessert, and excellent

262 APPLE TREES.

also as a sauce apple. The tree grows well and is not apt to

canker. 7

52. Dows.v’s Piprin.——In size and form this apple resembles
the Ribstone Pippin, but is more pointed at the head, and the
eye is sunk in a more confined and deeper cavity; the skin is
green, nearly covered with a clear thin russet, and a slight tinge
of brownish red on the sunny side; an excellent dessert apple
from October to Christmas.

53. BarceELona Pearmain, Glace Rouge, Kleiner Casseler Rei-
netie, Reinette Rouge, Reinette Rousse, Reinette des Carmes.—
Fruit of medium size, oval, not angular; colour, brownish yellow
in the shade, but deep red next the sun; flesh firm, yellowish,
with a rich aromatic but slightly agreeable acid. A dessert ap-
ple from November till February. Tree a good bearer.

54. Bett Frower.—A very large and beautiful apple, its co-
lour bright yellow, with an occasional blush on the sunny side ;
its form oblong ; the flesh tender, juicy, rich, and finely flavour-
ed, and is alike excellent for the dessert or for cooking. It ripens
early in November and will keep all the winter.

55. Cournr Penpnvu, Capendu, Court Pendu Plat, Garnon’s
Alpple-—An estimable dessert apple of nonpareil size [small] ;
very flat in shape, the colour yellow, a good deal covered with
full red; it is of high saccharine flavour and of close consistence ;
the fruit keeps till February or March. ‘The tree grows up-
right and bears well.

56. Maucarte, Charles Apple, Mela Carla.—A far famed fruit.
In the climate of Italy this is supposed to be the best apple in the
world. It is cultivated extensively in the territories of Genoa, as
an article of export and commerce to Nice, Barcelona, Cadiz, and
Marseilles. The fruit is rather large, its form inclining to glo-
bular: Its beautiful waxen skin is a little marbled with a very
_ faint green near the eye; its colour in the shade is a pale yellow
tinged with flaming crimson next the sun; the flesh is white,
tender, delicate, sweet, with the fragrant perfume of roses. It
ripens in September and will keep till spring.

57. Srroat, Straat.—Is an autumn fruit, itis stated to be ten-
der, juicy, well flavoured, and according to Mr. Buel, in excel-
lence it is not surpassed by any fruit in its season ; a native.

58, Swaar Appie.—It is a highly celebrated winter table fruit
in some parts of New York, and New Jersey; it is a large green
apple of great and uncommon flavour and richness; highly de-
serving cultivation in every collection of fine fruits.

' 59. Gotpen Harvey, Brandy Apple-—A dessert apple not
larger than the Golden Pippin; colour light yellow, with a flush
of red and embroidered with a roughish russet. It is called
Brandy Apple from the superior specific strength of its juice; is
of remarkably close texture, very rich in flavour, and will keep
till April or May. ay

60. Sipertan Harvey.—This fruit, which was raised by Mr.
Knight from the Siberian Crab and Golden Harvey, is stated to
be a small globular fruit, of a bright gold colour, stained with deep

APRICOT TREES. 963

red on the side next thesun; the fruit growing in clusters on
slender branches; the juice exceeding sweet; ripe im October.
Specific gravity of its juice, 1,091.

APRICOTS.

1. Rep Mascuuine, Abricot Precoce, Abricot Hatif Musque,
Early Masculine—This is an old variety, the fruit of which is
smal], cf a roundish form, and greenish red colour; the pulp is
tender; the tree a good bearer, and the fruit esteemed for its
earliness and tart taste.; ripensin July.

2. HemsxirKe.—Fruit middle sized, roundish, slightly com-
pressed; of a bright yellow colour; flesh tender, juicy, with a
particularly rich, delicate flavour, resembling that of the Green
Gage Plum; ripe in July.

3. Muscu-Muscu.—Fruit round, of a deep yellow colour ; re-
markable for the transparency of its pulp, through which the
etc is visible; the flesh is very fine and agreeable; ripens in

uly.

4, Earty Orance, Royal George, Royal Orange.—The fruit ofa
medium size, of a deep yellow colour, spotted with red or dark
purple next the sun; fleshdeep orange, succulent and well fla-
voured ; not perfectly a freestone; ripens early in August.

5. Brepa, Abricot de Hollande,* Amande Aveline, Royal Persian. -
—Fruit medium size, of a round form, and deep yellow colour ;
the pulp is soft and juicy; the tree a great bearer, and the fruit,
which ripens early in August, isin great esteem.

6. BrusseLts.—Highly esteemed for its productiveness: fruit
medium size, inclining to an oval form; of a red colour next the
sun, covered with numerous dark spots; the flesh is ofa greenish
yellow colour, of a brisk flavour, and not liable to become mealy ;
ripens in August.

7. Moorparg, Hanson’s, Temple's, Dunmore’s Breda.—The tree
is of vigorous growth, and extraordinarily productive; the fruit is
very large, of a bright gold colour, or orange, with dark spots next
the sun; flesh orange colour, melting and excellent; ripens early
in September.

8. PurpLe, Alexandrian Apricot, Abricot Angoumois, Abricot Vio-
let, Black Apricot.—A small, globular, downy fruit, a little oblong ;
of a pale red colour, becoming deep red or purple next the sun;
flesh pale red, but orange next the stone; a little acid, but good;
ripens in August.

9. Turkey, Large Turkey.—A superior apricot; fruit of a me-
dium size, deep yellow colour, with red blotches next the sun ;
form globular; flesh firm, juicy, rich and excellent ; ripe by the
end of July. ‘

10. Peacu Apricot, Abricot Peche, Abricot de Nancy, Imperial
Ansons.—This is a first rate fruit; form variable, generally flat-
tened; skin slightly downy ; fawn colour next the sun, tinged
with reddish spots or points ; pulp yellow, melting, juice abun~
dant, high flavoured and excellent ; ripens early in August. —

964 CHERRY TREES.

11. Buorcuen Leavep Roman, Blotched Leaved Turkey, Varia-
gated Turkey, Abricot Macule.—Tree vigorous and productive ;
fruit large size and round form; of a deep yellow colour, but the
pulp not very juicy; ripens early in August.

12, -RoyaL, Abricot Royale.—This fruit is next in size to the
Moorpark, rather oval, compressed ; of dull yellow colour, slightly
red; flesh pale orange, firm, juicy, sweet, and high flavoured,
with a slight acid: ripens early in August.

CHERRIES.

The first 14 varieties are round fruit, the last 16 heart shaped.

1. Earty May, Small Early May.—This variety is well caleu-
lated to be trained in espalier form, being naturally dwarfish.
The fruit, which is of small size, is ripe before any other; its
taste acid but pleasant, and the skin of ared colour.

_ 2. May Duxe.—Fruit medium size, round, and a red colour;
it npens in the beginning of June, and the flesh is a soft and an
agreeable acid ; the tree a good bearer, and the fruit excellent.

_ 3. Late Duxe, June Duke.—A cherry of large size; flesh very
rich; it ripens in July and lasts long on the tree, improving in its
flavour. ‘The tree is of vigorous growth and an abundant bearer.

4, Ampresg, Cerise Ambree.—A large cherry with a round
head, flattened at the opposite end; marbled with red and yellow
in the shade, bright. red next the sun; flesh white, somewhat
transparent, very juicy, sweet, and excellent, ripein Juneand July.

5. Arca Duxe, Griotte de Portugal, Portugal Duke.—A large
globular red cherry ; like the May Duke, it grows in clusters, but
the tree grows more vigorous than that variety ; an, excellent
cherry, and a great bearer; ripe in July.

6. Bette De Cuorsy, Cerise de la Palembree, Cerise Doucette.—
A middle sized, roundish fruit, growing in pairs on a forked stalk;
skin transparent, red, mottled with amber; flesh amber coloured,
tender and sweet.

7. Carnation, Late Spanish, Wax Carnation.—This fruit, which
derives its title from its colour, is of a large size; the skinis a
yellowish white, beautifully mottled with red; the flesh yellow,
rather firm, and of a pleasant taste, but less sweet than many
other varieties ; the juice is sprightly, and ofa pale colour. This
cherry ripens in July, and is held in high esteem fur preserves.

8. Hotman’s Duxe.—The branches of this tree are more spread-
ing than the May Duke; the fruit is larger, of equally fine fla-
vour, and ripens about two or three weeks later,

9. Prince’s Duxe.—This cherry was vaised in the Flushing
Nursery, from the seed ofa Carnation cherry. The fruit is of a
red colour, shaped like that of its parent, and much compressed ;
very rich and luscious when at perfect maturity, which is in July.

10. Kenrisn, Cerisier de Monimorency, Long Stem Montmorency.,
—Fruit ofa bright red colour; ripens in July, and has an agreea-
ble acid flavour; tree a great bearer, and fruit much esteemed
when full ripe ; theskin is then of a dark red colour.

CHERRY TREES. . 265

11. Short Stem Montmorency, Montmorency a gros fruit,Gros
Gebet, Gobet a Courte Queue, Cerise de Vilaine, Cerisier Coulard.—
This tree produces abundance of flowers, but the French com-
plain that the fruit does not set well; it is therefore found only in
the gardens of those who prefer the fine quality to the quantity of
fruit. The cherry is large, flattened at both ends; the skin is of
a brilliant red, and not very dark ; the flesh is yellowish white,
slightly acid, and highly pleasant. This fruit is considered by
some as one of the best cultivated; it ripens in July.

12. Moret1o, Milan, Cerise du Nord, English Morello—The
fruit medium sized, round; nearly black when at maturity ; tree
a great bearer; the fruit will keep late, and is excellent for pre-
serving and for brandy.

13. PLumstonre Moretito.—A tree of moderate size, of the
Duke or Kentish species ; a very large, dark, round cherry, nearly
black ; of a rich acid flavour. The stone is very large, and re-
sembles that of a plum; a native of Virginia, introduced by Wm,
Prince, Esq., of the Linnzan Botanic Garden, Flushing.

14, Watertoo.—A large, round, dark red fruit, inclining to
black at maturity ; the flesh is firm, and of an excellent flavour;
raised by a daughter of Mr. Knight, and so named from its per-
fecting its fruit soon after the battle of Waterloo. The tree is of
strong but irregular growth.

15. Gascoien’s Bieepinc Heart.—Fruit large, oblong, or
heart shaped, of a dark red colour; its flesh pretty firm, of a
pleasant and fine flavour; ripe in June.

16. Biearreav, Graffion, Turkey Bigarreau, White Or Heart.—
Very large, obtuse, heart shaped, yellowish amber colour, but fine
red next the sun; flesh firm, white, sweet and well flavoured; a
beautiful and excellent fruit, not very productive; ripe in June
and July.

17, Buacx Eacie.—A cherry of globular form, and middle size ;
dark purple, or nearly black; flesh very tender, rich, and of ex-
cellent flavour, and ripens early. The tree grows strong and very
upright. ;

18. Brack Heart, Guignier a Fruit Noir.—Fruit rather large,
heart shaped; dark purple, approaching to black at maturity ;
flesh dark red, tender, of excellent flavour; ripe early in July ;
tree a good bearer. ©

19. BLack TarTaRiAN, Black Cireassian, Fraser’s Black Tarta-
rian Black Russian,Ronald’s Large Black Heart, Fraser’s Black Heart.
A very large, heart shaped fruit, of a most superior quality; co-
lour dark shining purple, or black ; flesh firm, dark red or purple,
sweet, and of most excellent flavour. The tree and fruit combine
an assemblage of good qualities; an elegant, very rapid growing
tree, of great productiveness ; very large and beautiful fruit, and
excellent quality, ripening in June and July.

20. Wire Tarrarian, White Transparent Crimea, Fraser's
White.—A beautiful cherry, pale yellow, approaching to an amber
next the sun; a much admired fruit, of excellent flavour ; a good
bearer, ripening early in July. This tree grows vigorous and up-

266 NECTARINE TREES.

right ; itis thus readily distinguished from another variety, béar-
ing the same title.

21. Brack Carone, Couronne, Coroun.-This is a large and
improved variety of the Black Mazzard, which it resembles in
form, colour and general properties; the fruit ripens in July; the
tree yields plentiful crops.

22. HEREFORDSHIRE Biack, Late Black Heart.—Large, black,
and heart shaped; a most excellent cherry, and a great bearer ;
and more valuable for ripening late, when most varieties are
gone.

23. Evxnorn, Black Ox Heart.~A large cherry, ripening be-
tween the Black Heart and the latest varieties; its flesh remarke
ably hard, and very peculiar; and though not high flavoured, it
is supposed by some, that from its solid consistence, it may be
profitably cultivated, to be transported from a distance to market.

24. Exton.—The tree is very vigorous and productive; the
fruit is pretty large, heart shaped; pale glossy yellow in thie
shade, but marbled with bright red next the sun; flesh firm,
sweet and rich; ripens early in July.

25, FLonence.—Large, heart shaped, depressed ; of a yellow
amber colour, marbled with bright red in the shade; bright red
next the sun; tolerably firm, juicy, rich and sweet; ripe end of
June.

26. Harnison’s Heart, Red Ox Heart.—A large heart shaped
cherry, yellowish or amber colour, but light red next the sun ;.
flesh tender and high flavoured ; ripens early in July.

27. Knieut’s Ear_y Biacx.—Blossoms early; fruit resembles
the Waterloo; ofa rich dark hue; its flesh is firm and juicy ; it
is abundantly sweet, and ripens by the middle of June.

28. Rumincton Waite Heart.—A moderate sized cherry,
of moderate flavour; chiefly valuable for its very late maturity ;
said to have originated in Rhode Island.

29, Wuire Heart.—This cherry ripens immediately after the
May Duke; the fruit is of medium size, oblong and heart shaped ,
the skin is of a fine appearance, being a yellowish white on the
one side, and tinged with pale red next the sun; the flesh is rather
firm, of pleasant flavour, accompanied by a honied sweetness ;
but the tree bears very indifferently.

30. Downton.—A new variety, raised by Mr. Knight. Fruit
rather round, inclining to heart shape; of a pale yellow colour,
sprinkled with minute red spots, and large patches of dull red or
maroon; flesh pale amber colour, tender and juicy, very sweet
and high flavoured; ripens early in July.

NECTARINES.

The first thirteen varieties are freestones, the last seven are
pavies or clingstones.

1. Faircuiiy’s Earty.—Fruit very early, but small; of globu-
lar shape; yellow in the shade, deep scarlet next the sun; flesh
yellow, not juicy, but well flavoured ; ripens early in August.

NECTARINE TREES. 267

%, Mitter’s Erruce.—One of the very best and most high
avoured nectarines; fruit medium size, of a dark red and pale
yellow colour; pulp melting, very juicy, rich and high flavoured ;
gipens middle of August.

3. Earty Vio.er, Violette Huative, Petite Violette Hative, Violet,
Lord Selsey’s Elruge, Large Scarlet.—Fruit variable in size, gene-
rally medium; pale yellowish green, but darkish purple red next
the sun ; flesh melting, juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in August.

4, Pirmaston’s Orance.—A good sized globular or heart
shaped fruit, of a rich yellow colour, but dark crimson or purple
next the sun; flesh golden yellow, but red next the stone from
which it separates ; itis melting, juicy, saccharine and high fla-
voured ; ripe middle and end of August.

5. Vermasu, True Vermash.—This fruit is ef rather small size,
and of round form, tapering towards the eye; the skin isa very
deep red colour next the sun, and of greenish hue on the other
- ; pulp rich, melting and juicy. The fruit is at maturity in
August.

6 Aromatic.—A middle sized, rather globular fruit, deep red
or brown next the sun; flesh pale straw, but red at the stone;
juice of a rich vinous flavour ; ripe by the end of August.

7. Wuire Nectarine, Old White, Brugnon Blane Musquee,
Nectarine Blanche de Weitzenfeld—Fruit middle sized, roundish ;
colour very pale yellowish green, becoming almost white in the
shade, and slightly tinged with red next the sun; flesh tender and
juicy, with a fine vinous flavour; ripens early in September.

8. Common E.ruce.—Fruit large, roundish, inclining to oval ;
skin deep violet or blood colour when exposed, with minute brown-
ish specks, paler in the shade; flesh whitish, melting, very juicy,
rich and high flavoured; a much esteemed fruit, ripening early.

9. ScarLet.—Fruit medium size, of a beautiful scarlet colour
next the sun, and pale red on the shaded side ; the flesh separates
from the stone, and is at maturity in August.

10. Tempres.—A fruit below niedium size, rather oblong;
pale red next the sun; flesh white; it shrivels when ripe; very
juicy, rich, and of fine flavour, and is at maturity in September.

11. PeETERBoRoUGH, Late Green.—The fruit is of medium size,
round form, and always of a green colour; the part next the sun
being of the deepest green, and the other side of a paler hue; the
flesh is firm and of pleasant flavour; and the fruit lasts: till Oc-
tober.

12. Murry.—Fruit medium size, dingy red and pale green
colour, and has a rich juicy flavour. A much esteemed fruit.

13. Waite orn FLanpers NECTARINE, New White, Emmerson’s
New White.—-A middle sized, roundish, very pale fruit, slightly
tinged with red next the sun; flesh tender and juicy, with a fine
vinous flavour. The Pomological Magazine describes this as a
clingstone; Lindley as a freestone. .

14. Earty Newinerton, Lucombe’s Seedling.—Fruit large, ripens
in August, and is of a deep red colour; pulp super excellent ; con-
sidered by some as the best of all nectarines,

25

268 PEACH TREES:

15. Irauian, Brugnon or Italian—A large globular pale yel-
low fruit, marbled with dark red next the sun; flesh firm, yellow,
red at the stone, juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in August.

i6. Brugnon Vioter Musque, Brugnon Musque.—Fruit large,
of a. deep red and yellow colour; skin very smooth; flesh yellow,
but red at the stone; saccharine, vinous, musky; at maturity in
September.

17. GoLpEN.—Fruit medium size, of the finest orange-colour,
delicately and beautifully mottled with red next the sun, which
gives to it a clear waxen appearance ; flesh firm, yellow, pale red
at the stone, and has a poignant, rich flavour; ripens in Sep-
tember.

18. Rep Roman, Roman Red.—A very excellent nectarine, of
large size; the skin dark red next to the sun, and of a yellowish
hue on the other side ; flesh yellowish, but red next the stone; it
abounds with rich juice when fully ripe, which is about the middle
of September.

19. Scartet Newineton, Late Newington, Old Newington.—
This variety is much esteemed ; the fruit large, of a beautiful red
colour next the sun, and a fine yellow on the other side ; its quality
is excellent, being rich and juicy; npe by the middle of Sep-
tember.

20. Tawny Newineron.—Fruit largish, somewhat ovate ;
tawny coloured, marbled with dull red or orange next the sun ;
flesh pale yellow, but red at the stone; very juicy, sugary, and of
the most delicious flavour; ripens in September.

PEACHES.

The first thirty-eight varieties are freestones, the last twelve,
pavies or clingstones. ‘

1. Wuite Nurmec, Avant Peche Blanche.—Fruit small, round,
and of white colour ; juice’sugary and musky ; esteemed for being
the first sort ripe.—July.

2. Rep Nurmec, Brown Nutmeg, Avant Peche Rouge.—The
growth of this tree is exceedingly slow, its habits dwarfish, ‘The
fruit, which is at maturity by the middle of July, is of yellow and
red colour; the pulp is rich and musky, and esteemed for its pre-
cocity. i : ;

3. Green Nutmec, Early Anne.—This variety is said to have
originated in Berkshire, England. ‘The fruit is of round form ;
colour yellowish green, tinged with red; pulp melting, juicy, and
of very pleasant flavour; the tree is a good bearer, and the fruit
ripens early in August. Murray’s Early Anne is .a. variety raised
from the seed of this.

4, Nems’ Farry Purpte, Early Purple of Miller, Johnson’s Pur-
ple Avant, Padley’s Early Purple, Veritable Powrpree Hative, Peche
du Vin.—One of the most beautiful of peaches ; of largish size,
and of a fine deep red and purplish colour; it npens in the middle
of August; flesh melting, juicy, with a rich vinous flavour; an
excellent fruit.

PEACH TREES. 269

3. Monravson.—Fruit round, of medium size ; colour dark red,
approaching to purple next the sun, but of yellowish green on the
other side; flesh tender, melting, rich, juicy, and of pleasant f'-
vour ; ripens in August. Beitr

6. Sweer Water, Early Sweet Water.—This variety is said to
have originated at Flushing; its form is round, and its colour
whitish green at maturity, which is early in August; the flesh is
very tender, melting, rich and juicy. ;

7. Brevoort’s SerpLinc.—A superior freestone peach, raised
by Henry Brevoort, Esq., of New-York ; pulp tender, juicy, and
of excellent flavour ; ripens in August.

8. Petite MicNonne, Double de Troyes, Peche deTroyes, Migno- |
nelte.—The tree is of feeble growth, but productive ; skin downy,
fine, pale yellow, but red next the sun; flesh melting, juice abun-
dant and of fine flavour; ripens in August.

9, Emperor oF Russia, Serrated Leaf, or Unique-—The tree is
of medium vigour, but the young wood is said to be subject to mil-
dew; the fruit, which ripens early in August, is deeply cleft, one
half of it projecting considerably beyond the other ; the flavour of
the flesh is very good. This sort originated in New-Jersey twenty
years ago, and all the stones of this fruit are said to produce plants
with jagged leaves.

10. Wasuincton Pracu.—A first rate peach: colour a pale
yellow in the shade, but dark red next the sun; flesh very juicy
and delicious ; ripens towards the end of August.

11. MapeLeme pe Courson, Madeleine Rouge,Rouge Paysanne,
Red Magdalen of Miller.—An excellent fruit, of large size, and fine
red colour; ripens at the end of August; flesh firm, white, very
red at the stone; sugary and very rich.

12. Dovste Montacne.A beautiful and excellent peach, of
middle size ; skin greenishfwhite, but soft red, marbled with a deep-
er red next the sun; flesh melting; juice plentiful, and highly fla-
voured ; ripein August. .

13. Spring Grove.—A medium sized fruit, of a globular form ;
greenish yellow, but bright crimson next the sun; pulp juicy, rich
and high flavoured; ripens in August.

14. Wurre Macpaten,—Fruit rather large and round, slightly
striped with red, and of a yellowish white colour ; it ripens in Au-
gust ; flesh white, fine, melting, and pretty high flavoured.

15. Bete Cuevreuse.—Fruit medium size, oblong form, and
of a red and yellow colour; ripens in the end of August; the pulp
is rich, juicy and sugary; tree a good bearer, and the fruit highly
esteemed.

16. Maura, Peche Malte, Belle de Paris, Malte de Normandie.—
Fruit above the medium size; pale yellowish green, marbled with
purplish red; flesh yellowish, juicy, rich, vinous and of superior
flavour; ripens at the end of August. :

17. Acron Scor.—Fruit below the medium size; colour pale
yellow, but bright red and marbled next the sun; flesh melting,
juicy, and pretty good.

18. Roya. Kensincron.—Fruit of a high red and yellow co-

270 PEACH TREES.

tour; flesh rich and juicy when at maturity, which is early in Sep-
tember ; a first rate peach.

19. Norresse.—The tree is of vigorous growth, and very pro-
ductive ; fruit large, and ofa pale red colour; pulp juicy, rich and
melting when at maturity, which is early in September.

20. Van Zanvt’s Supers, Waxen Rareripe.—This variety ori-
ginated with Mr. Van Zandt, of Flushing; its skin is smooth,
somewhat mottled, and of a beautiful waxen appearance; flesh
melting, and of excellent flavour.

21. Grosse Micnonne, Veloutee de Merlet, Grimwood’s Royal
George, Large French Mignonne, Vineuse.—One of the most beau-
tiful and delicious varieties in cultivation. 'The fruit is large, of a
beautiful red or rose colour, and greenish yellow ; pulp tender,
Juicy and high flavoured when in perfection, which is early in Sep-
tember.

22. Be.tecarpe, Galande, Violette Hative, Noire de Montreuil.—
The tree is vigorous and productive ; fruit medium size, much co-
loured, and almost black; flesh firm, saccharine and juicy ; a first
rate fruit.

23. Gzorcr THE Fourru.—An excellent peach, of medium
size and globular shape; of pale yellow colour in the shade, and
dark red next the sun; flesh pale yellow, but red at the stone from
which it separates ; a fruit of very superior flavour when at matu-
rity, which is early in September ; it originated in the garden of
Mr. Gill, Broad street, New-York.

24. Dovste Swatsu.—Fruit middle sized, ovate; skin pale
yellow, but bright deep red next the sun; flesh soft, melting and
juicy; an excellent peach ; ripe early in September. :

25, Bette pe Virry.—A large fruit, of fine red colour next the
sun, on the opposite side a yellowish white; form globular ; flesh
white, stained with red at the stone; melting, juicy, sweet, vinous
and excellent ; ripe in September.

26. Bourpine, Bourdin Narbonne.—The fruit is large, round,
sometimes a point at its summit; deep red next the sun; flesh
melting, sweetand vinous; in perfection by the middle of Septem-
ber; a first rate peach.

27. RamsovuiLtet, Rambullion.—This fruit is of rather large size
and oval form, with a deep sature ; it is of a fine red next the sun,
and yellowish on the shaded side; flesh bright yellow, melting,
with rich and vinous juice; it ripens in September.

28. SmootH Leavep Royrat Grorce.—This is considered by
Lindley as a superior variety: fruit above the middle size, globu-
lar, depressed ; skin yellowish white, but of a beautiful red or car-
mine colour next the sun; flesh melting; juice plentiful, and of a
high vinous flavour; ripening in September.

29. Rosanna, Alberge Jaune, Peche Jaune Rousanne, St. Laurent
Jaune, Yellow Alberge, Petite Rousanne.—A middle sized, globular
fruit, of a yellow colour, but next the sun deep red at maturity; a
deep sature extends from summit to base; flesh melting, juicy,
rich, sweet, vinous and excellent ; at perfection in September.

30. Roya George Micnonne.—A superior fruit, of globular:

PEACH TREES. O71

form; its colour yellow and deep red; flesh melting, juicy, sac-
charine, vinous, and most excellent ; ripe in September.

31. Wuire Bossom, Willow Peach, White Blossomed Incompara-
ble.-—This variety originated on Long Island; the fruit is perfectly
white, of an oval form and handsome appearance ; the flesh is also
white, melting, juicy and pleasant; it is much used for preserves
‘when not over ripe, and is at full maturity in September.

32. Rep Caeex Matacatune, Yellow Malagaton, Alberge In-
comparable.—T his variety originated at the Flushing nursery; the
fruit is of large size and oval form; its colour is yellow, with a red
cheek on the sunny side; the flesh is also yellow, melting, rich,
juicy and luscious. There is another variety of this fruit, which
originated with Mr. Polls, of New-York, said to be very produc-
tive, and of excellent quality ; ripens in September.

33. Neiverre, Velontee Tardive-—Fruit large, a little oblong,
downy, green in the shade, and deep red next the sun; flesh firm,
saccharine and high flavoured; ripens towards the end of Sep-
tember.

34. Late ApmiraBLe, Royale, Royal, Bourdine—Fruit large,
roundish, inclining to oblong; sature deeply impressed along one
side, having the flesh swelling boldly and equally on both sides,
with a slight impression on the summit ; skin downy, of pale green :
colour, streaked with dull tawny red; flesh white, delicate, melt-
ing, juicy and high flavoured; a “magnificent peach,” ripening in
September. Mr. Prince has the Teton de Venus under this head,
as a synonym; but it is generally considered as a distinct variety.
Mr. Kenrick says, that there are two or three varieties named Te-
ton de Venus. )

35. Presipent.—This variety originated at Bedford, on Long
Island, It is a rich, melting, juicy fruit, ripening in September ; it
is of large size, roundish, with a shallow sature ; skin very downy,
dull red next the sun, pale yellowish green in the shade ; a first
rate peach. |

36. Horrman’s Pounp.—This fruit is by some called the Mor-
rissania, from its having beenffirst obtainedjby Mr. Foy, from Gou-
verneur Morris ; butit originated with Martin Hoffman, Esq., of
New-York. The fruit is very large, weighing from twelve to
fourteen ounces; very juicy and delicious, parting from the stone ;
greatly esteemed from its ripening late, about the middle of Oc-
tober. i

37. Monstrous Lemon, Largest Lemon.—This variety was first
discovered in the garden of Mr. Tiebout, of York Island ; the fruit
is of the largest size, and in the gardens of two persons in New-
York, has weighed seventeen ounces, as stated by Mr. Prince.
He says the tree does not bear well unless the situation is a shel-
tered one; the fruit is late in ripening. ‘

38. Heatu, Kenrick’s Heath.—This variety was first obtained
from the late Gen. Heath, of Roxbury, near Boston. The fruit is
very large, oblong and beautiful; frequently weighing half a
pound; colour pale yellowish Sn with crimson or violet next the

5 *

9712 PEACH TREES.

sun; its flesh is melting, juicy, rich, vinous, agreeably acid, and
good ; ripens in October.

39. Heatu, Heath Clingstone—Mr. Prince says, that the ori-
ginal tree of this variety was discovered growing wild on the farnr
of the late Judge Willet, of Flushing, and took its name from its
being found in a barren field. The fruit is very large, of oval or
oblong form; the skin is white; the flesh is peculiarly rich and.
highly flavoured, tender, melting and juicy. There is another va-
riety mentioned by Mr. Kenrick, and called by the same name,
stated by Mr. Coxe to have been raised from a stone brought by Mr.
Heath from the Mediterranean.

40. Caruarine.—Fruit large, round, variable ; colour a beautiful
red next the sun, marbled and dashed with darker shades; pale
yellow in the shade; flesh very white, tinged with yellow; juice
abundant, and of very rich and sweet flavour; tree a good bearer.

41. Pavie ApmrraBLe, Incomparable.—Fruit large, roundish ;
skin pale yellow, shaded with scarlet or deep crimson next the sun;
flesh pale yellow, juice sugary and well flavoured.

42. Lemon CiinesTone, Pine Apple, or Kennedy’s Lemon.—T he

fruit is rather large, oblong ; colour, in the shade, deep yellow, but
of * dark.red next the sun; the flesh is yellow, rich, vinous, a little
acid.
43. Prince’s BLoop CiinesTone, Blood Clingstone, Claret Cling-.
stone.—T he fruit is oval, and of a large size; the skin is of a dark
purplish colour, and very downy ; the flesh of a crimson or pur-
plish tint ; suited for preserves and pickles.

44, Monsrrovs Pavie or Pomroone, Gros Melecoton, Gros Per-
sique Rouge.—F ruit very large and round, downy, of a fine red and
greenish white colour; flesh white, deep red at the stone, juicy
and vinous; excellent for preserving; tree a good bearer.

45. Orv Newineron.—This fruit is large and globular, of a fine
bright red and pale yellow colour ; flesh yellowish white, very juicy,
tich, sweet and well flavoured ; very productive.

46. Diana.—A large, oblong peach ; colour white in the shade,
but red next the sun; flesh very juicy and delicious-

47, Pavir MaGpeLEINE, Pavie Blanc, Melecoton, Myrecoton, Per-
sique a Gros Fruit Blanc.—The fruit is large and downy ; white in
the shade, and red next the sun; flesh white, fine, melting, and
of an agreeable musky flavour.

48. Horrr’s Lemon Cuiinestone.—This fruit isfof the largest
size; of a clear golden yellow in the shade, but bright red next
the sun; its form resembles a lemon, and some have weighed
twelve ounces ; its flesh is firm, and is at maturity in New-York
hy the end of September.

49. YeLLow ALBERGE CLinGsToNneE, Persais d’Angoumois, Pavie
Jaun, Persecque Jaune.—F ruit of fine size and beautiful form ; the
skin is velvety yellow where shaded, and speckled with reddish ©
points; the flesh is firm, rather dry, and almost breaking; its co-
jour is yellow. It is deemed an excellent fruit.

50. Earty Newinaton, Smith’s Newington, New-York Early
Newington.—This should have been placed first on our list of cling-

PEAR TREES. 273

stones, as being the earliest. A much esteemed fruit ; its colour
in the shade is white, but next the sun red; its form is globular ;
its flesh is juicy, rich and high flavoured. _ The tree is productive,
and the fruit matures in August and September.

PEARS.

The first 18 are Summer, the next 24 Autumn, and the last 18
Winter Pears,

1. Musk Rosine, Poire dla Reine, La Princesse, Queen’s
Pear, Muscat Robert, Poire d’ Ambre.—Fruit small, and of yellow
colour; it ripens in July, and continues to the end of August 5
a arich musky flavour, a great bearer and much esteemed dessert

ruit.

2. Lonpon Sucar.—This fruit is below medium size ; colour
greenish yellow, tinged with brown; form turbinate narrowed at
the crown; flesh tender, melting saccharine, of a rich musky fla-
vour ;‘an excellent early fruit, and very productive. Ripe in July.

3. Mape.eine, Magdalene, Citron des Carmes, Early Chau-
montelle—This pear is of medium size, pale yellow, with an oc-
casional blush next the sun; flesh white, melting, perfumed.
A fine old fruit, ripe at the end of July.

4, Premature.—A new pear, about the size of the Crawford,
but more juicy and delicious, and remarkably early ; it commands
a good price in the markets of Edinburgh, Scotland, and is re-
puted a most superior early fruit.

5. JarconeLe, Epargne, Beau Present, Saint Samson, Grosse
Cuisse Madame, Saint Lambert, Poire des Tables des Princes.—
Fruit rather large, oblong, of a pale green colour ; flesh melting,
juicy, with a slightly acid, rich and agreeable flavour. It ripens
early in Aucust, is one of the most productive of all pears, and
the very best in its season.

6. Cursse Mapame, Epine d’Ete, Fondante Musque, Satin
Vert, Satin Green,—Fruit of smallish size; greenish yellow at
maturity ; pyramidal; flesh melting, juicy, musky, rich, and ex-
cellent. Ripe by the middle of August.

7. Green Cutssey.—Fruit nearly globular; skin green, but
slightly brown next the sun ; flesh gritty, saccharine, a little per-
fumed; the fruit grows in clusters, and. ripens early in August.
The tree is of feeble growth, but very productive.

8. Aueust Muscat, urate, Muscat d’ Aout, Musk, or Spice.—
Fruit of medium size; turbinate, flattened; colour yellow, but
light red next the sun; flesh breaking, saccharine and perfumed.
It succeeds tolerably on the quince, and ripens early in August.

9. Cassoterre, Friolet, Lechefrion, Muscat Verd, Poire de
Sillerie, Verdasse, Green Muscat.—A_ small pyriform fruit, of a
bright green colour, slightly red next the sun ; flesh breaking, of
a sweet and musky flavour; ripens in August. ,

10. Sazine D’ETe.—This pear is of pyramidal form, termi-
rating in around blunt point at the stalk; colour yellow; but

Q74 PEAR TREES.

fine scarlet next the sun ; the whole surface smooth, regular, and
polished ; flesh white, melting, juicy, and highly perfumed, the
tree is an abundant bearer, and ripens its fruit in August.

11. Sereneur D’Ere.—Fruit above the middle size; a blunt
oval ; colour fine orange, but bright scarlet next the sun, and
marbled ; flesh melting, free from grit ; a rich and beautiful pear.
The tree is handsome and bears well; its fruit ripens early in
September.

12. RoussELreT DE Ruems, Petit Rousselet.—Fruit small,
pyramidal, greenish yellow at maturity, but brown red next the
sun, with russetty spots; flesh half beurre, fine, very perfumed.
Good to put in brandy and to dry. Ripens end of August.

13. Witirams’ Boncuretien, Bartlet.—This fruit onginated
with a Mr. Wheeler in Berkshire, England, but was subsequently
extensively propagated by Mr. Williams near London—hence its
name. ‘The fruit is large, oblong; the stalk thick and fleshy, an
inch long; the colour at maturity, yellow tinged with red ; flesh
whitish, very melting, and delicate; juice perfumed, sweet and
ren Tree very productive, and fruit ripe at the end of

ugust.

14. Winpsor, Cuwisse Madame, of the French —A middle
sized oblong pear; colour green, but brownish red next the sun ;
half melting, sweet, a little musky, rather coarse ; ripe by the end
of August.

15. Summer Boncuretign, Bonchretien d’Ete, Gracioli, of the
French.—Fruit very large, irregular, knobby ; skin smooth, of
pale yellow colour, but slightly red next the sun; flesh whitish
yellow, firm and breaking; juice sweet and very agreeable. It
ripens early in September.

16. Summer Bercamor, Hamden’s Bergamot, Milan Blanc,
Bergamot d’Ete, Milan de la Bewvriere.—Fruit of medium size,
globular, depressed; colour greenish yellow, russetted and
speckled next the sun; flesh melting, juicy, saccharine and high
flavoured. At maturity by the middle of September.

17. Dearsorn’s SrEDLinc.—This new variety originated in
the garden of the Hon. H. A. 8. Dearborn of Roxbury. The
tree is of vigorous growth ; fruit of medium size, rounded at the
crown, and regularly diminishes in a parabolic manner to the
stalk ; the skin is smooth, thin green with russet spots; at ma-
turity it turns to a delicate yellow; flesh very melting, and of the
finest flavour.

18. JULIENNE, oF Coxg, LD’ Archiduc D’ E’te, Summer Beurre,
Summer Doyenne, Summer St. Michael, so called near Boston,
Bloodgood Pear of New York.—Fruit medium size, smooth, bright
yellow at maturity, with a faint blush next the sun; form rather
ovate, tapering towards the stalk; flesh perfectly melting, rich
and juicy. The tree bears.young and most profusely, and ma-
tures its fruit early in September.

19. Aurumn Cotmar.—Fruit middle size, oblong; of a pale
yellow colour, with much thin russet next the sun; flesh rather
gritty but mellow, with a sugary and slightly perfumed juice.

PEAR TREES. O75

A new, hardy, Flemish variety, ripening its fruit early in Oc-
tober.

20. Bette et Bonne, Schone und gute, Belle de Bruxelles.—
*¢ & harvest pear, magnificent,” very large, globular, depressed,
the stalk long; skin greenish yellow, but next the sun yellow,
with spots of russet; flesh white, sweet, exceeding rich and
agreeable ; perfumed. The tree is very productive, and the fruit
ripens in September.

21. Moor Fow. Ece.—Fruit small, globular, ovate, swollen
in the middle, orange brown next the sun, with spots of russet ;
flesh yellowish white, a little gritty, tender mellow, saccharine, a
little perfumed. This is a hardy Scotch fruit, ripe end of Sep-
tember.

22. Bezy pe Montieny, Trouve de Montigny.—Fruit medium
size, pyramidal, compressed towards the summit ; colour yellow ;
flesh white, a little gritty, very melting; sweet, musky. It suc-
ceeds on the quince. Ripe in September.

23. E:ron.—A pear of medium size, oval form, broadest to-
wards the crown; colour greenish russetty gray, but russetty
orange next the sun; flesh breaking, and of an excellent flavour.
Ripe in September.

24. Devices p’ARDENPONT, Delices d’Hardenpont, De Tou-
louse.—Fruit medium size ; skin alittle thick, smooth, green, but
yellow at maturity; flesh white, nearly melting ; juice pleasant,
sweet and abundant. Ripe in October.

25. Secxkie.—An excellent native fruit, size varying from
small to medium; colour varying from yellowish to brownish
russet ; but generally red next the sun; flesh of a melting, spicy,
and of a most extraordinary rich and delicious flavour. It ripens
the middle of September, and the fruit grows in clusters, in great
abundance.

26. Urnsaniste.—The fruit is piramidally ovate; skin pale
green, inclining to yellow; flesh white, but reddish yellow next
the core; it is quite melting, juicy, and very sweet, with a little
perfume. It ripens from the middle of September to November.

27. Marie Loviszt.—Fruit oblong, tapering towards both
ends; size varying from medium to large; skin nearly smooth,
yellowish green, and cinnamon coloured russet; flesh white,
melting, juicy and rich. It ripensin October, and is described as
an excellent fruit. |

28. Dovenne SanTELETE.—A new fine handsome Flemish
pear. Fruit above the middle size, pyramidally oblong; skin
pale green, speckled with gray russet; flesh white, a little gritty,
but tender; juice saccharine, with a slight musky perfume.
The tree is hardy, and ripens its fruit early in October.

29. Gray Dovenne, Red Doyenne, Doyenne Gris, Doyenne
Roux, Doyenne d@’Automne.—Fruit medium sized; colour bright
crimson russet, but red next the sun ; flesh yellowish white, melt-
ing, saccharine, rich and of excellent flavour. Season, October
and November. |

30. AsHton Town.—The fruit is small, of a greenish colour,

276 PEAR TREES.

spotted withrusset ; the flesh is melting, high flavoured, richly
sugared and perfumed. It is in perfection in October and No-
vember. |

31. AuruMNn Bereamot, Common Bergamot, York Bergamot.—
Fruit globular depressed, the skin rough, yellowish green, and
dull brown; flesh pale, melting, juicy, sugary, and perfumed;
ripe in September and October. A first rate pear.

32. Gotpen Brvurre or Bitsoa.—Fruit of medium size ; ob-
long; colour a bright golden yellow, with patches of russet ;
perfectly melting and of fine flavour. A beautiful fruit, a great
bearer, and worthy of cultivation,

33, Hacon’s IncomparnasLe.—Fruit middle sized, of pale yel-
low colour, mixed with green, partially covered with orange russet ;
flesh yellowish white, slightly gritty, but very tender, juicy, sweet
and rich ; and possessing a high musky and perfumed flavour.
The tree is a great bearer, and the fruit excellent, and is in per-
fection in November and December. A silver medal was given
for a specimen of this fruit, as a prize, in England, 1830.

34, Ducuess or ANGOULEME, Duchesse d’ Angouleme.—A pear
of first rate excellence. Form roundish, oblong, tapering towards
the stalk; skin dull yellow, with broad russet patches; flesh
rich, melting, very juicy, and high flavoured, witha most agreeable
perfume. Specimens of this fruit have been seen in England,
weighing twenty-two ounces. In perfection in November and
December.

35. GREEN Sytvanen, Sylvange Vert, Bergamotte Sylvange.—
A most superior pear, above the medium size, of green colour,
skin rough, and speckled with gray or black. The flesh is
greenish near the skin, white in the centre, soft, saccharine and
juicy. Fruit in perfection from October to January. ‘The tree
is a great bearer, and specimens of the fruit have been known to
weigh thirteen ounces.

36. Bisnop’s THums.—Fruit over medium size, very oblong ;
it is twice as long as broad, and tapers to its summit; colour
dark green, and brownish red, with iron coloured russet; flesh
yellowish green, melting, juicy, rich and excellent ; ripening in
October.

‘37. Brown Beurre, Beurre Rouge, Beurre d’Or, Beurre Doie,
Beurre du Roi, Beurre d Amboise, Isembert, Red Beurre, Golden
Beurre.—This was formerly considered the best of all pears.
Fruit rather large, of greenish yellow, and dusky red colour,
covered with thin russet; flesh melting, buttery, rich and excel- .
lent. In perfection in October, and will often keep till January.

38. Princesse p’Orance, Princess of Orange.—The fruit is
roundish ; the skin bright reddish orange russet ; flesh yellowish
white, sugary and rich, in some seasons perfectly melting, but
occasionally a little gritty. A beautiful pear, and of good quality
in October. }

39. Swan’s Ece.—Fruit small, oval, turbinate ; colour yel-
lowish green and dull russetty brown; flesh tender and melting,
with arich, saccharine, musky flavour. An excellent fruit, ripe in

PEAR TREES. 977

October. The tree is remarkably tall, upright, vigorous, and
productive.

40. Cuarues dD’ Autricne, Charles of Mustria.—A fine and
beautiful fruit, large, three and a half inches long, and three
inches broad ; colour greenish yellow, with brown spots and partly
russetted ; flesh white, melting, juicy, and delicious, Rupe in
October.

41. Gansew’s Bereamor, 'Broca’s Bergamot, Ives’s Bergamot,
Bonne Rouge.—Fruit varying from medium size to large; ovate,
flattened ; colour dull green, slightly red next the sun; flesh
white, melting, sweet, rich and high flavoured. A delicious pear,
ripe in October and good till Christmas.

42. Naro.eon, Medaille, Sauvageon Liart.—Fruit large, form
of the Colmar; skin smooth; colour bright green, but at ma-
turity, pale green ; flesh very melting, with an unusual abundance
of rich agreeable juice. At perfection in October and November.

43. BeurRED’AREMBERG, Beurre d@ Arembert, Duc dAremberg,
Poire d@ Aremberg, Beurre Deschamps, Beurre Orphelins of Des-
champs.—The English and French writers speak of this pear as
one of the best in cultivation. The tree is a great bearer, comes
early into cultivation, and the fruit will keep till March. Fruit
large, turbinate ; skinof a delicate pale green, dotted with russet,
which becomes a deeper yellow at maturity; flesh whitish, fine,
very juicy, perfectly melting, and very extraordinarily rich, sweet,
high flavoured and excellent.

44, Easter Bercamor, Bergamolie Bugi, Bergamotte de Pa-
ques, Bergamotte d’Hiver, La Grillieu, Paddington, Turling, Win-
ier Bergamot.—Fruit rather large, short, roundish turbinate ;
swollen at the crown; colour yellow at maturity; half beurre;
sweet and good. In perfection from December to May.

45, FRANCREAL, Fin, or d’Hiver, Francreal d@ Hiver.—The tree
is very productive ; it succeeds well on the quince; fruit globu-
lar ; colour yellowish green, but brownish red next the sun, and
a little russetty ; good to cook from October to mid-winter.

46. Beurre Dist, Diel’s Butterbirne, Dorothee Royale, Beurre
de Gelle, Beurre Royale, Poire de Melon.—This ranks amongst the
best of pears. The tree is of vigorous growth; fruit when in
perfection, four inches long, and three inches broad ; the skin at
maturity is bright orange, with reddish russet; flesh clear white,
tender, melting, and juicy, and ofa delicious aromatic flavour ;
from November to January.

47. Beurre Rance, Beurre Epine, Hardenpont de Printemps.—
This is said to be a first rate pear. ‘The tree is vigorous and a
good bearer; fruit middle sized, oblong; skin deep green; flesh
green, melting, having a delicious rich flavour, with very little
acid. It shrivels in ripening, but will keep till Apmil.

48, Guoria, Colmar d’Hiver.—A name implying every thing
that is excellent. A melting pear of superior quality; shape
varying from nearly globular to pear shaped; colour yellowish
green; flesh firm, juicy, and of excellent flavour ; at perfection
in January and February,

278 PEAR TREES.

49. Hottanp Bercamot, Bergamotte d’Holland, D’Alencon.—-
Fruit very large, globular, but broadest at the crown, flattened ;
of greenish yellow colour; flesh half breaking, juicy, and high
flavoured ; it keeps till May, and succeeds on the quince.

50. Saint Germain, Inconnue la Fare.—This celebrated ancient
fruit is large, of a green colour, covered with russet spots; at ma-
turity a yellowish cast; its flesh very melting, juicy, saccharine,
slightly acid, and delicious; it ripens in November, and may be
kept till March.

51. Monarcu.—A new pear, considered by Mr. Knight as with-
out arival. The tree is represented of rapid growth, and an
abundant bearer ; fruit large, of an extraordinary musky flavour,
and deemed excellent for Perry. Season in England, December
and January.

52. Cotmar, Poire Manne, Bergamotte Tardive, Incomparable.—
This fruit is rather large ; skin smooth, of a green colour, chang-
ing to yellow at maturity ; form pyramidal; flesh melting, juicy,
saccharine, and of excellent flavour; the fruit is in perfection
from November to February.

53. Easter BEURRE, Bergamotte dela Pentecote, Beurre d’Hiver
de Bruxelles, Doyenne d’Hiver, de Bruxelles, Bezi Chawmontelle Tres
Gros.—Of all the late keeping pears, this is considered the best,
(for England.) Fruit large, roundish, oblong; colour green, but
yellow at maturity, with specks of russet brown ; flesh yellowish
white, perfectly buttery and melting, and extremely high flavour-
ed; it is eatable in November, and will keep till May; it is a
most profuse bearer, on a quince stock.

54, Passe Coxtmar, Fondante de Panisel, Passe Colmar Gris dit
Precel, Potre Precel, Passe Colmar Epineux, Beurre Colmar Gris
dit Precel, Beurre d’Argenson, Chapmans.—A most valuable pear,
of medium size, conical, flattened next the eye; skin at maturity
yellowish, sprinkled with russet, a tinge of red next the sun; flesh
yellowish, melting, juicy, rich and excellent. The tree isa good
bearer, and the fruit is in perfection from November to February.

55. FiemisH Bon Curetien, Bon- Chretien Nouvelle Espece.—
Fruit large, oblong, turbinate; skin at maturity yellow, mottled
with russet next the sun ; flesh yellowish white, breaking, a little
gritty, but mellow at maturity ; juice saccharine, with a slight
musky perfume ; season from November till February.

56. Gor Morceav, Gloux Morceaux.—A very large Belgie
variety, of great excellence ; fruit of ovalish form, pale green co-
lour, inclining to-yellow, with russetty specks and blotches; flesh
whitish, firm, very juicy and excellent; in perfection from No-
vember to March.

57. Port DE AnaNna, Potre d’ Ananas.—A new Flemish variety,
held in high esteem; a winter fruit, of medium size, very hand-
some, melting, with a fine pine apple flavour, (hence its name
Ananas ;) ripening in November, and good till March ; the tree
is of dwarfish habits, and flowering freely, and at the extremity of
the branches.

58. Winter BoncHRETIEN, Bonchretien d’Hiver, Poire d’n-

PLUM TREES. 979

goise.—Very large, colour at matutity yellow, with a slight stain
of red next the sun; form truncated, or pyramidal; flesh
breaking, rather sweet and juicy. This variety, though enor-
mously large, is very liable to crack, but is sometimes preserved
sound till May.

59. CHAUMONTEL, Bezy de Chaumontelle, Beurre @ Hiver—This
noble old variety is a fruit varying in size, from large to very
large ; its colour at maturity yellow, tinged with red next the sun;
its form variable; flesh melting, juicy, sweet, musky, excellent ;
season from November to February.

60. CarpinaLe, Poire d’Amiral, Admiral.—The tree is of me-
dium vigour, its young wvod of medium size, and of a red colour ;
a superb oblong pear, of a pyramidal form; yellow in the shade,
but beautiful red next the sun; flesh white, half melting, coarse
grained, but very juicy, sweet and agreeable ; it keeps till March,
and merits to be better known.

PLUMS.

1. Precoce pe Tours, Early Tours.—The tree is vigorous and
fertile ; fruit small, oval, dark purple, covered with fine bloom ;
flesh greenish yellow, tender, juicy, and of very agreeable flavour ;
one of the best early varieties, and very productive; ripe at the
end of July.

2. Great Damask VioLet or Tours, Gros Damas de Tours.—
This plum is of dark purple colour, covered with bloom; the flesh
is whitish, firm, sweet, pretty rich, and of a very pleasant flavour;
it ripens towards the end of July, and isin perfection early in
August.

3. Merocco, Early Black Damask, Black Damascus, Black Mo-
rocco, Early Damask, Early Morocco.—This is considered as one of
the best of early plums. The tree is very hardy and productwwe ;
fruit middle sized, roundish ; skin deep blackish purple, covered
with a light blue bloom; flesh greenish yellow, juicy, rich and
high flavoured ; ripe early in August.

4, Nectarine Pium, Caledonian, Howell’s Large, Prune Pecie.
—One of the most beautiful plums known; large, nearly round ;
the skin at maturity varies from red to crimson, covered with
azure bloom; flesh yellowish, coarse grained, astringent; juice
abundant, and of mild, pleasant flavour; at maturity early in
August.

5. Jaune Hative, Prune de Catalogne, Prune de St. Barnate,
Catalonian, White Primordian, Amber Primordian.—Fruit smail,
round, and of a yellow colour; ripens in the end of July ; flesh
mealy ; tree a great bearer; and the fruit chiefly esteemed for its
precocity.

6. BLue Perpricon, Perdrigon Violet—This plum may be
ranked among the choice varieties ; its form is nearly round, of
medium size, and of purple colour; its flesh is greenish, partially
melting, and moderately sweet and rich; it ripens at about the
middle of August.

26

980 — PLUM TREES.

7. Earty OrLEaNs, Hampton Court.—Fruit of largish size and
oval form ; of a red colour; ripening about the middle of August ;
the flesh is of a rich juicy flavour, and the tree a great bearer.

8. Witmot’s New Earty Orteans, Wilmot’s Orleans.—This
plum is of medium size and round form; its sature deep; of a
dark purplish hue, covered with a fine bloom; the flesh is green-
ish yellow, of excellent flavour, sweet, combined with a pleasant
acid, It is a handsome plum, ripening early in August.

9. New-York Purrre, Brevoort’s Purple Bolmer.—An excellent
fruit, raised froma seed of the Washington Plum, that had been
impregnated with the pollen of the Blue Gage. The fruit is very
large, ofa rich and brisk flavour ; the flesh adheres to the stone ;
ripe about the middle of August.

10. Bue Gace, Azure Hative-—This fruit is of medium size,
and of a roundish, oval shape; skin violet, powdered with a
a light blue bloom, with pale yellow dots; flesh greenish amber,
rich, sugary and high flavoured ; ripe in August.

11, Cuester, Matchless.—This plum is of oval form, and of a
dark blue colour, with a partial violet bloom; the flesh is dark
yellow, rich, and full of sweet and pleasant juice; the fruit ripens
in August, and the tree produces abundantly.

12. ForHEerincuHAM, Sheer Plum.—This freit is of large size,
the form oblong, with a'deep sature; the skin is of a deep red
colour ; the flesh is white, firm and crisp, rich, juicy, and of fine
flavour; at perfection in August.

13. Roya DE Tours.—The tree is of fextraordinary vigorous
growth ; its principal stem rises vertically ; the fruit is globular,
of red violet colour, covered with azure bloom; flesh yellow, fine,
good; juice abundant and sweet; ripens in August.

14, Mairre CLraupe.—tThis fruit is of large size and round
form ; skin of a bright yellow colour, with dark red spots, and is
covered with a thin white bloom; the flesh is pale yellow and
firm, with sweet and sprightly juice; ripens in August.

15. Wasuineton, New Washington, Bolmer’s Washington,
Franklin, Imperial Gage, Superior Gage.—A very, large, globular
plum, inclining to oval; greenish yellow next the sun, with crim-
son specks, covered with a rich bloom. This plum has sometimes
weighed over four ounces; its flesh is yellow and firm, sweet
and delicious, but not considered equal in flavour to the Green
Gage ; ripe in August. :

16. Green Gace, Great Queen Claudia, Dauphine, Grosse Reine
Claude, Abricot Vert, Verte Bonne, Large Green Claudia, Gros Da-
mas Vert.—A middle sized, round fruit, of a yellowish green co-
lour, and purplish russety red next the sun; the flesh is of a
greenish hue, melting, with abundance of very sweet and highly
perfumed juice, of an exquisite taste ; it arrives at maturity to-
wards the end of August.

17. LucomsBe’s Nonsucu.—This plum is large, compressed at
the summit and base, its breadth two inches; its colour at ma-
turity, as well as its form, resembles the Queen Gage, but more
streaked with yellow ; flesh firm, rich and juicy ; at maturity by
the end of August ; tree a good bearer.

PLUM TREES. 281

18. Iratran Damask, Damas d’Italie —This fruit is rather large,
its form globular, a little flattened at the base; blue or violet next
the sun, and covered with a purple bloom; its flesh is yellow,
rich and juicy, and the tree, which matures its fruit by the end of
August, is very productive.

19. Bueecxer’s Gace.—This plum is stated to have been
raised by the Rev. Mr. Bleecker, of Albany, from the stone of a
German Prune; it is described as a large, globular fruit, of ex-
cellent quality, and a great bearer.

20. Coorrr’s Lance Rep, Cooper’s Large American.—This plum
is of extraordinary size, measuring within an eighth of two inches
in each direction; the skin is of a fine dark purple colour; the
flesh is yellowish green, rich, juicy, and. of pleasant flavour;
the fruit makes excellent preserves, if gathered in August ; its
great defect is an inclination to rot.

21. Kirxe’s PLum.—This variety is said to be as. hardy and
prolific as the Orleans, as handsome as the Damask, and as good
asthe Green Gage. Fruit large, roundish, oval; skin covered
with a close, firm, azure bloom, through which appears a few
golden specks; flesh greenish yellow, firm, juicy and rich ; in per-
fection the early part of September.

22. Rep Diaper, Diapree Rouge, Roche Corbon.—One of the
most beautiful plums known; form oval, two inches and one
third in length, a liftle pear shaped; colour bright red, with a
partial degree of bloom, and speckled with dots of deeper red ;
flesh greenish yellow, soft and sweet, but coarse; its quality does
not correspond with its appearance, but they make excellent
prunes, if gathered early in September.

23. Gotiatu, Goliah, St. Cloud.—This fruit is very large, some-
times weighing four ounces; the skin is a deep reddish purple.
the flesh pale, firm, and well flavoured, but not rich; the tree is
a great bearer, and the fruit much used for cooking ; ripe in Sep-
tember.

24. IMperiat Diapem.—A large fruit, admirably adapted for
culinary purposes; shape oval; colour pale red, but dark when
mature, which is about the middle of September ; itis of good fla-
vour, and highly perfumed.

25. JERUSALEM.—The tree is vigorous and productive ; fruit
beautiful ; its form oval; skin thick, blue next the sun, covered
with an elegant bloom; flesh yellowish, coarse grained, but melt-
ing; juice abundant, high flavoured and sweet; a large, hand-
some fruit, ripe early in September.

26, Diamonp PLtum.—Some consider this as the largest plum
known ; its colour is a dark purple; in form it resembles the
Magnum Bonum, but its flavour is considered rather superior ;
the tree, which grows vigorously, originated with Mr. Hooker, in
Kent, England.

27. Rep Quren Motuer.—This plum is large, its colour, bright
red, coveted with pale bloom ; its flesh is yellow, sweet and ex-
cellent, ripening in September. :

28. La Rovatez, Royale—A large and excellent plum, of a

282 PLUM TREES.

homely dull red colour, but concealed by a thick violet or azure
bloom ; flesh fine, yellowish green, firm, juicy, high flavoured and
delicious ; a superior plum, at maturity in September.

29. Mims, Mimm’s Plum.—The fruit is very large, a little
oblong ; colour bright purple, covered with thick bloom ; its flesh
is yellowish green, tender, juicy, and very agreeably flavoured ;
ripe in September.

30. Surpasse Monsinur.—A large fruit, of oval form, and of a
dark red purplish colour, raised by a Mr. Noisette ; it is said to
be more beautiful and perfumed than the Monsieur, and the tree
qeide suckers which produce fruit in all their beauty and excel-
ence.

31. Puree Gace, Reine Claude Violette, Die Violette, Konigen
Claudie.—This fruit is large, almost round, and considered in
France as one of the finest varieties; its skin is of violet purple co-
lour, with pale yellow dots, and covered with a light blue bloom ;
flesh greenish amber, rich, saccharine and high flavoured; at
maturity in September.

32. VirGInaLe.—This fruit ranks among the best of plums ; its
shape is round, colour yellowish, touched with violet or rose, and
covered with dense bloom; flesh melting, juice abundant, and
very agreeable.

33. Rep Macnum Bonum, Imperial Violette, of the French.—A
large, oval plum, of deep red colour, covered with blue bloom ;
flesh yellowish, harsh and acid; consequently good for cooking,
preserves, &c. Fit for use in September.

34. Rep Perpricon, Perdrigon Rouge,—An excellent plum, of
the first class, of medium size, oval shape, and fine red colour,
with gold coloured dots and a fine bloom; flesh bright yellow,
transparent; juice sweet and delicious. Peeled and dried in
September, it makes excellent prunes.

35. Winesour, Rotherham, of the old gardens.—This plum is
excellent for sweetmeats ; it is of smallish size, oblong form, and
of dark purple colour ; the flesh is yellow, juicy, and of a pleasant
acid flavour ; the fruit is fit for use by the end of September ; the
tree is a great bearer, and will grow on any soil, but flourishes
most on limestone or gravel.

36. Apricot PLum, Prune Abricote, Abricottee de Tours.—The
fruit is large, its form globular, depressed, divided by a deep sa-
ture ; whitish yellow, but faint red next the sun, and covered
with bloom ; its flesh is firm, juicy, sweet, musky and excellent ;
it ripens in September.

37. Cor’s GoLDEN Drop, Coe’s Imperial, Bury Seedling, New
Golden Drop, Fair’s Golden Drop.—Raised by Mr. Coe, of Bury,
Norfolk, Eng. The treeis vigorous, fruit of medium size; skin
greenish yellow, spotted with violet and crimson ; flesh gold co-
lour, rich and excellent ; the fruit ripens at the end of September,
and will keep several weeks. A first rate fruit.

38. Prince’s IMpertaL GaGe, Prince’s White Gage.—This tree
was originated at the Flushing nursery, from a seed of the Green
Gage. The fruit is one of the largest of its class; the skin at

PLUM TREES. 983

‘maturity is yellow, dotted with red; the flesh is rich, luscious,
and of excellent flavour, and makes fine preserves, if gathered
‘towards the end of August ; at maturity in September.

39. Saint CatTHarineE.—A medium sized, oblong fruit; skin
bright gold colour, spotted with red at maturity, and covered
with bloom; flesh yellow, tender, sweet, and of fine flavour ;
ripens in September.

40. Late Waite Damseon, White Damascene, White Winter
Damson, Frost Plun—This variety is very productive, the fruit
hanging in numerous clusters along the branches. The fruit is
oval, of a greenish white colour, marked with brown spots; the
flesh is juicy, and of pleasant flavour ; it ripens in September, and
continues on the tree several weeks.

41. Waite Macnum Bonvum, Imperiale Blanche, Egg Plum,
White Mogul, White Holland.—This fruit is of extraordinary size,
oval, yellow, covered with pale bloom; the flesh yellow, firm,
acid and austere; excellent for cooking and preserves, in Sep-
tember.

49, Wuite Perpricon, Perdrigon Blanc.—A middle sized, ob-
long fruit, ofa pale yellow, with red spots, and covered with white
bloom; flesh yellow, rich, saccharine and juicy; it ripens in
September.

43. Imperatrice.—One of the best of late plums; fruit medium
size, oval; skin fine violet, covered with bloom; flesh yellowish
next the sun, a little firm, and very sweet, rich and juicy at matu-
rity, which is from October to December.

44. Prune Suisse, Semiana, Prune d’Altesse, Monsieur Tardif.—
Fruit very handsome, round, flattened ; colour varving from bright
violet red, to deep blackish blue, and covered with azure bloom ;
flesh greenish yellow, crackling and melting; juice very abun-
dant and delicious; an excellent fruit, ripening in September and
October.

45. DownrTon IMPERATRICE.—A superior late plum, of medium
size; skin dark yellow, and very thin; the flesh yellow, soft,
juicy, with a high flavoured acidity; at perfection in October.

46. Late Biack Damson, Damas Noir, Damas Noir Tardif.—
An excellent fruit, of dark purple colour, almost black, and cover-
ed with bloom.; the flesh is rather firm, yellowish green, sweet,
and slightly perfumed whenat maturity.

47. Late PureLe Damson, Purple Winter Damson, Blue Da-
mascene, Blue Damson.—This variety is in great esteem for pre-
serves, and generally commands a high price. It is of a dark
purple colour, covered with bloom; the flesh has rather too much |
acidity for a table fruit, but this tartness gives it an agreeable fla-
vour when cooked.

48. SuropsHire Damson, Damson Plum.—This is a large va-
riety of the damson,of fine quality and rich flavour, most excellent
for preserves. It ripens in October and November, and the tree
produces abundantly. i

49. Huxine’s Supers, Keyser’s Plum.—This plum is of mon-
strous size, and has been known to weigh nearly four ounces ;

26%

984 PLUM TREES.

it is of roundish form, and a greenish yellow colour; the flesh is
sweet, rich and excellent. It was raised from seed by Mr. Key-
ser, of Pennsylvania, and brought into notice by Dr. Wm.
Hulings, of that State.

50. Lare Cuatons, Tardif de Chalons—This fruit is nearly
oval, of a whitish yellow hue, tinged with red, and covered with
bloom; the flesh is yellowish, melting and very juicy; ripe in
October.

In conclusion, it may be necessary to remind the reader, that,
as the. preceding description of fruits 1s only intended as a continu-
ation of the article “‘on the choice of fruit trees in the nursery,”
brevity was essentially requisite. Itis presumed, however, that
the explanation given will be found sufficient to direct the public
attention tothe most esteemed sorts of fruit. Those who may
wish for more extensive information on this part of our subject,
are referred to the works already alluded to, also to a work about
to be published, entitied, ‘‘A Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Gar-
den, or an Account of the most valuable Fruits cultivated in
Great Britain, by George Lindley, C. M. H.S., edited by John
Lindley, F. R.8.,&c. First American, from the last London
edition, containing notes, explanatory and practical, with nume-
rous additions on the propagation, culture, pruning and training
of Standards, Open Dwarf, and Espalier Fruit Trees, adapted to
the climate of the United States, with additions of the most valu-
able American Fruits, and other matters, useful to the American
Horticulturist, by Michael Floy, Gardener and Nurseryman, New-
York, and C. M. H. S., of London.”

285

The following article was prepared for the February number of
the “New-York Farmer, and American Gardener’s Maga-
zine,” and is respectfully submitted as an appendage to this
work, by the author.

THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN.

Man is formed for social enjoyment, and if it be allowed that
“it is not good for man to be alone,” it is equally true that it is
not good that woman should be alone; hence a union of inte-
rests indicates a union of persons for their mutual benefit. By
this union, a sort of seclusion from the rest of our species takes
place ; and as a garden isa retired apartment, appropriated to
culture and improvements, the married state may not be inaptly
compared with it in many respects. é

It is good and honourable for the human species prudently and
cautiously to approach this delightful enclosure. Its entrance in
general is extremely gay and glittering, being strewed with
flowers of every hue and every fragance, calculated to charm the
eye and please the taste; but theyare notallso; and as there
are many persons who may wish to enter this garden at some
time or other, who are yet strangers to its various productions,
their attention should be directed to the cultivation of those plants
which are beneficial, and to the avoiding or rooting up of those
which are injurious.

And first, let me caution adventurers in this garden not to
dream of permanent happiness ; if you should so dream, experi-
ence will soon make you wiser, as such happiness never existed
but in visionary heads. If you are desirous that this garden
should yield you all the bliss of which it is capable, you must take
with you that excellent flower called GOOD HUMOUR, which,,
of all the flowers of nature, is the most delicious and delicate ; do
not drop it or lose it, as many do soon after they enter the gar-
den—it is a treasure that nothing can supply the loss of. When
you get to the end of the first walk, which contains about thirty
steps, commonly called “the Honey Moon Path,” you will see the
garden open into a vast variety of views, and it is necessary to
caution you to avoid many productions in them whichare noxious,
nauseous, and even fatal in their nature and tendency, especially
to the ignorant and unwary. There is a low, small plant, which
may be seen in almost every path, called INDIFFERENCE,—
This, though not perceived in the entrance, you will always know
where it grows, by a certain coldness in the air which surrounds
it. Contrary to the nature of plants in general, this grows by
cold and dies by warmth; whenever you perceive this change in
the air, avoid the place as soon as youcan. In the same pathis
often found that baneful flower called JEALOUSY, which I
advise you never to look at, for it has the strange quality of
smiting the eye that beholds it, with a pain that is seldom or never
gotrid of. Jealousy is a deadly flower; it is the aconite of th
garden, and has marred the happiness of thousands. |

286 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN.

As you proceed, you will meet with many little crooked paths.
I advise you as a friend, never to go into them, for although at
the entrance of each, it is written in large letters, AM RIGHT,
if you do enter, and get to the end of them, you will find the true
name to be PERVERSENESS. These crooked paths occasion
endless disputes, and as it is difficult to make thecrooked straight,
it is better to avoid them altogether, lest, as it sometimes happens,
a total separation be the consequence, and you take different
paths the rest of your lives.. Near this spot, you will meet with
a rough, sturdy plant, called OBSTINACY, which bears a hard,
knoity fruit, that never digests, and of course must injure the
constitution ; it even becomes fatal, when taken in large quanti-
ties. ‘Turn from it, avoid it as you would the cholera.

Just opposite to this, grows that lovely and lively shrub, called
COMPLIANCE, which, though not always pleasant to the pa-
late, is very salutary, and leaves a sweetness in the mouth; it is
a most excellent shrub, and produces the most delicious fruit.—
Never be without a very large sprig in your hand; it will oftenbe
wanted as you go along, for you cannot be happy without it in
any part of the garden.

In one of the principal compartments, stands a very important
plant, called ECONOMY ; it is of a thriving quality ; cultivate
this fine plant with all your care; it adorns and enriches at the
same time. Many overlook it, some despise it, and, others think
that they shall never want it; it is generally overlooked in the
gaiety and levity with which people enter this place, but the want
ofit is generally paid for with bitter repentance. There are two
other plants of the same species, which are very closely connect-
ed, called INDUSTRY and KRUGALITY, and I must take
leave to tell you that, unless both the male and the female par-
take largely of their branches, very little success can be
expected; in this they must both unite. Take care that you
provide yourself and partner with a supply of each as soon as
possible after you enter the garden.

There are two or three paths which run much into one another,
and deserve the closest attention of the softer sex; I mean RE-
GULARITY, EXACTNESS and NEATNESS. Do not
think as some do, that when you have once got into the garden,
you may be neglectful of these paths. Remember that your
companion will see your neglect, which will affect his eye, and
may alienate his heart. Enter on these departments then as
soon as you enter the garden, and when you are once fairly in,
you are in for life; the danger is, thatif you do not get into them
at an early period, you will not find them afterwards. Near
these walks is to be found that modest plant, called HU-
MILITY :

It is the violet, “* doom’d to blush unseen,
And:shed its sweetness on the desert air.”

It appears of little worth in itself, but when joined with other vir-
tues, it adds a:charm to life, and spreads a fragrance around its

THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 87

wearer. Cultivate then, with all your care, this sweet little plant,
and you will find it prevent the growth of all poisonous and
noxious weeds.

Allow me also to drop a hint on the subject of cultivation, as
connected with propagation, as that most probably will be your
employmentin this garden sooner or later. Should you have the
rearing of young plants, remember that they are frail in their na-
ture, and liable to be destroyed by every blast, and will demand
all your care and attention. Should you be witness to a blast on
its dawning beauties, Oh, how your fond heart will bleed with
tenderness, affection and sympathy! The young shoot will na-
turally twine around all the fibres of your frame. Should it live
and thrive, spare no pains to “train it up in the way it should go.”
Weed it, water it, prune it; it will need all the cultivator’s skill.
Without this, many weeds and baneful plants will grow up with
it, and blast your fondest hopes. Be ever mindful that this is a
trust for which both parties are accountable. Without careful
cultivation, what can you expect but the most luxuriant growth of
unruly appetites, which, in time, will break forth in all manner of
disgraceful irregularities? What, but that ANGER, like a
prickly thorn, will arm the temper with an untractable morose-
ness? That PEEVISHNESS, like a stinging nettle, will render
the conversation irksome and forbidding? That AVARICE,
like some choking weed, will teach the fingers to gripe, and the
hands to oppress?) That REVENGE, like some poisonous
plant, replete with baneful juices, will rankle in the breast, and
meditate mischiefto its neighbour? While unbridled LUSTS,
like swarms of noisome insects, taint each rising thought, and
render “every imagination of the heart only evil continually ?”
Such are the usual products of unrestrained nature! Such the
furniture of the uncultivated mind !

By all means, then, pay due attention to culture. By suitable
discipline clear the soil. By careful instruction implant the seeds
of virtue. By skill and vigilance prune the unprofitable and over-
luxuriant branches :—“ direct the young idea how to shoot,”—the
wayward passions how to move. The mature man will then be-
come the chief ornament of the garden. Aroundhim CHARITY
will breathe her sweets, and in his branches HOPE expand her
blossoms. In him the personal virtues will display their graces,
and the social ones their fruit—the sentiments become generous,
the carriage endearing, the life useful, and the end happy and

peaceful. T. BRIDGEMAN.
Bowery Road, January 14, 1833.

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INDEX

FLOWERS AND FRUITS,

TO VEGETABLES, HERBS,

VEGETABLES.

age. : Page.

Artichoke 11 Mustard 47
Asparagus 15,90,102 Nasturtium 48
Beans, Eng. Dwarf 19,92 Okra 49
Beans, Kidney Dwarf 22,92 Onion 49
Beans, Pole orRunning 23 Parsley 51
Beet 24 Parsnip + 51
Borecole & Brussels Sprouts 25 Pepper 52
Breccoli 26,93 Peas 53, 99
Cauliflower 29,93 Potatoes 55, 100
Cabbage 31,85 Potatoe, Sweet 56
Colewort, or Collards 33 Pumpkins 56
Cardoons 34 Patience Dock 57
Carrot 34 Radish 57, 101
Celery 35 Rocambole 58
Chervil — 38 Rhubarb 59
Chives 38 Salsify 61
Corn Salad, or Fetticus 39 Scorzonara 62
Cress 39 Sea Kale 63
Cress, Water 39 Sorrel 66
Cucumber 40, 94,97 -Skirret 66
Egg Plant 41,85 Shallot 67
Endive 42 Spinach 67
Garden Burnet 43 Squash P 68
Garlick 58 Tomato 69, 85
Indian Corn 43 ‘Turnip 70
Leek 44 Turnip, French or Navet 33
Lettuce 44,85 ‘Turnip, Russian 72
Melon 45,98 Horse Radish 78
Melon, Water 47 Mushroom 103, 156, 159, 160

HERBS AND FLOWERS.

. Page.

Annual Flower Seeds, a Catalogue of 113
Aromatic Pot and Sweet Herbs, do. 78
Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds, Catalogue of 118

Bulbous Flower Roots, Cultivation and Manage-

ment of
Climbing Plants
‘Chrysanthemums
Dahlias, culture of
Edgings, Lawns, &c.
Flower Garden, Culture of

123, 159, 161

111, 115, 120, 134

Green House Plants, Management of

Herbs, Medicinal, Culture of

Herbs, Pot and Sweet, Culture of

Herbs to Preserve

Hop, Culture and Management of

148
125

112, 122
111, 116, 120
144

81
79

81, 158, 160
74, 157, 159

290 | INDEX.

Page.
Roses, Running kinds of 143
Shrubs, Flowering and Ornamental 133
FRUITS.
Page. . Page.
Apple . 188,258 Medlar 229
Apricot 191, 263 Mulberry 230
Almond 193 Nectarine 233, 266
Berberry 194 Orange, Lemon, &c. — 235
Cherry 196,264 Peach 237, 268
Chestnut ~. 198 Pear / 239, 273
Cranberry 199 Plum 241, 279
Currant 201 Quince 244
Elder 202 Raspberry "| 245
Fig 203 Strawberry 247
Filbert and Hazlenut 205 Walnut 251
Gooseberry 206 Whortleberry 253
Grape 209

INDEX TO THE GENERAL MATTER: Page.
Air, Heat, Light and Moisture essential to vegetation 145, 147

Ashes valuable to the Farmer 178
Aspect, situation, &c. 2,111, 165, 169
Blank Book recommended 2, 84, 116, 151
Calendar and Index 151
Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery 255
Cultivation of Flowers 116, 120, 123
Diseases of Trees, Insects, &e. 174, 256
Dniling, Mode of 5,9
Fencing 110, 152, 170
Flower Garden 110
Forcing Vegetables, Observations on 86, 102
General Observations 1, 86, 110, 133, 165, 255
Hedges of Shrubs 116, .134
Hot Beds, Management of — 58, 89, 153
Insects, to Destroy 3, 7, 153, 156, 164, 177
Laying out the Ground "| 1,40, 110,472

anure, Compost, &c. ae 3, 10, 163
Perennial Herbaceous Plants, to Propagate 12], 160
Plan of Beds, &c. ta 83:
Planting Trees, Shrubs, &e. Wy 134, 143, 154, 167, 256
Pruning and Training 152, 164, 180, 257
Rolling recommended * 6.7
Soils, Management of 4, 166, 170
Sowing Season 4
Table of Estimates 9
Thermometer recommended § 89
Transplanting Vegetables 9, 155, 158
Vegetables, to Preserve 162
Walks, Edgings, &c. 112, 122
Watering of Plants ; 145, 147
Matrimonial Garden 285

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