= i ae) ull ve \ a it | | l — = + eer nreupresas UE + Eee eweren ‘ nares TE TT * : AOI eee . > eee RTS ad - eS cere Serer smn? se ERT “ Ae mE - Seanrerenens pra = -_ - : al eer ow . = Ea ~ - mem ae me ) mene * Sy ~ rat Wr, 5 1 i » bai % or. * x iy aH IN y “ae ’ ~- ; + 2 s 4 4 4 ‘ 4 iy ta % be ats a * * 5 * . ty . \ R Patt Qty, ‘ ti ‘it Tat ny hS A GeA S. ‘ SN ‘ ‘y eX ay ,*> 4 * \- » PREFACE TO THE TENTH EDITION. Tue primary object in first publishing Taz Youne Gar- DENER’s ASSISTANT, was to enable our respegtable seedsmen, while furnishing a catalogue of seed for the use of the Kitchen and Flower Garden, to afford instruction, at a trifling expense, to such of their customers as had not a- regular gardener, and thereby save themselves the blame of those who may not have given their seed a fair trial, for want of knowing how to dispose of it in the ground. On the appearance of the tenth edition of this work, the Author cannot forbear expressing his sense of obligation to his patrons in general, and to his fellow-seedsmen of New- York in particular, for the interest they have taken in circu- lating the book, thereby evineing their approbation of this humble attempt to serve both the seedsman and the gardener, by supplying directions for the management of a garden, in a manner calculated to insure success. Within the last fourteen years, upward of fourteen thou- sand copies of previous editions have been sold at the seed- store of Mr. G. C. Toorsurn, of New-York. The Boston and Philadelphia seedsmen have also contributed largely to its circulation; and the Author is gratified in learning that his labours are appreciated by eminent horticulturists, as will appear from the following extracts : “ Dear Str—You will see by the next month’s ‘ New- York Farmer,’ if you hiignet already seen by the Albany papers, that several copies of your Young GarpEner’s ASSISTANT were given as PREMIUMS by the State Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B. Slingerland and myself were on the LV PREFACE. committee for awarding premiums, and thought your work was deserving encouragement, and that even in this small way we might be of service in bringing it before the public aS WORTHY OF BEING GIVEN AS PREMIUMS. “‘ Yours very respectfully, «“ ALEXANDER WALSH. “ LanstncBurGH, November, 1835.” Extract from a réview of this work, in the Magazine of Horticulture, Botany, &c., published by Hovey & Co., Boston. “ The work is written in plain language, easily to be un- derstood by the young beginner in gardening, whe will find it a great help; and its value, even to the partly experienced person, is by no means of an ordinary character. It Is ADAPTED TO OUR CLIMATE, and, unlike compilations from English works, the novice is not led into disappointment by following the rules there laid down, as he generally is when following the advice of the latter. We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, IT Is WORTH ALL OTHERS OF A SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN THIS COUNTRY; and its cheapness should place it in the hands of all new beginners.” It appears from an article in ‘The New-York Farmer and Horticultural Depository,’ that the first edition of the work was noticed in France. The editor informs us, in page 295 of the fourth volume, ‘“ That one of the leading articles in the second number of the present volume of the ‘4nnales de l’ Institute Royal Horticole de Fremont,’ is a long notice of Tue Youne GarpDENER’s Assistant, by T. Bridgeman, of this city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulonge Bodin, speaks of the little work in very commendable terms.” Numerous other proofs could be adduced of the kind reception the work has met with. Suffice it to state, that it has been extensively noticed, and recommended to public PREFACE. Vv. patronage, by editors of literary periodicals, and in many of those publications devoted to agricultural and horticultural pursuits, in various parts of this and other countries; and the Author may here be allowed to state, without incurring the charge of vanity, that the American Institute, at their fourteenth Annual Fair, expressed their approbation of the work in the most emphatic manner by awarding it a GoLp MEDAL. As the simplicity of cultivating the soil may lead many to. think that a “‘wayfaring man, though a fool, could not easily err therein,” it may be necessary to remind such, that the vegetable productions of the earth, being natives of various soils and climates, require peculiar management when culti- vated in climates different from those in which nature first produced them ; and that, although many species of plants in common use with us will endure the heat of our summers, others can only be raised in perfection during mild and temperate weather, and some require artificial means to be used out of the ordinary seasons for gardening operations. In the following pages, no efforts have been spared to impart useful information in the several branches of horti- culture. The directions for the cultivation of vegetables are the result of twenty-four years’ assiduous practice and obser- vation as a market gardener; and it is presumed that the Author’s experience in other departments of gardening has been sufficient to warrant him in this attempt to instruct those who are not acquainted with the art. The Author does not consider it derogatory to acknowledge, that he has frequently compared his ideas with those of other authors, and that he has in some instances availed himself of the benefit of their instructions; but he is not aware that in so doing he has adopted any ideas merely speculative ; to avoid which he has invariably submitted such manuscript to the scrutiny of expe- rienced gardeners of his acquaintance, and the result has generally been such as to confirm him in his original positions. It must appear evident to the reader, on a review of this. 1* Ayal pase (sean hd A AMDH Deh MAN re te Ry 7 LAG RON aad ‘ } Pavan pp SR amano Man) Se CN Ak , Sra A Suen S Metall sh best CONTENTS. GENERAL REMARKS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 8 Page. On laying out the ground, - - - - - = dey A blank-book recommended, - - - - - 14 Method of using manure, (noée) - - - - - 15 Observations on improving various seils—and on sowing seed early, - - - - - - - - 16 The drilling system recommended, - - - - 17 Remedies for the destruction of insects, (note, 19) - 18 On the most proper rotation of crops, - - wie | A table showing the number of plants that may be raised on an acre of land, at given distances, which table may also be applied to other objects, - 23 On the durability of the germinative properties of seed, 25 A table or classification of such species and varieties of seed as are usually cultivated in the KitchenGarden, 26 Explication of the above table, - - - - 228 Adaptation of the directions in this book to all climates, 30 A CATALOGUE OF CULINARY VEGETABLES ; WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD. [The Notes are chiefly calculated to guard against error in cultivation.] Artichoke, - - - 31]|| Cauliflower, (note, 52) - 51 Asparagus, (note, 36) - 34 || Cabbage; (note, 55) Soe Beans, (English Dwarfs) 39 Colewort or Collards, - 57 Beans, (Kidney Dwarfs) Cardoons, - - - 58 (note) : = etAdel| Carror, - - - 58 Beans, (Pole orRunning) 42 || Celery, (note, 61) - - 60 Beets, (nole) - - 44]|| Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 63 Borecole or Kale, - 461) Cress, - - - - 64 Brussels Sprouts, - 47 || Cucumber, (note) - - 65 Broccoli, (nole, 49) - 48 || Chives, or Cives, - - 66 XII. CONTENTS. Juty.—Directions for transplanting of Cabbage, Car- doons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper Plants, &c., —Also, for the gathering and preserving of Aro- matic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, as they come into blossom—and for the cultivation of various sorts of vegetables described in the Calendar, - ‘ Aveust.—The planting season being nearly over, the gardener is recommended to manure, dig, and plough vacant ground for autumn crops—to attend to Artichokes, Hops, Mushrooms, Onions, Shallots, Turnips, &c., as directed, - - - - - Serremper.—The business of this month consists in finishing the sowing of seed of the season—in ma- turing various kinds of vegetables, by hoeing and earthing—and in the gathering of Herbs, Hops, &c., as they arrive at maturity, - - - Ocrosrer.—Directions for preserving various plants and vegetables—by planting Parsley, Lettuce, Cab- bage, Cauliflower, &c., in frames—by providing pits to contain Beets, Potatoes, &c.,—and by laying away Winter Squashes, Pumpkins, and other vege- tables designated, for use through the winter, - Novemsper.—The best methods described, of stowing away for the winter; Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab- bage, Cardoons, Carrots, Celery, Horse-radish, Leeks, Turnips, and such other vegetables as need protection—A\|so, directions for the winter dressing of the beds of Artichoke, Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Sea-Kale,_ - - - - - - Decemper.—Hints on various subjects connected with the preservation of plants, vegetables, and imple- ments—and for collecting suitable manures, com- post, &c., for use next spring—Also, suggestions for ploughing or trenching particular kinds of soil, in order that it may be benefited by winter frost, Fage. 157 158 - 159 161 - 162 163 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. BerorE commencing the Catalogue, it may be necessary to direct the reader’s attention to some important matters, essential to the good management of a Kitchen Garden. The mode of laying out the ground is a matter of taste, and may be left to the gardener himself, the form being a thing of trifling importance in the production of useful vege- tables; and it matters not whether the ground be laid out in beds of four or ten feet wide, provided it be well worked, and the garden kept neat and free from weeds. Those who have not a garden already formed, should, however, fix on a level spot where the soil is deep; but as we have not always a chvice, I would recommend the reader to that which is within his reach, and ought to be the object of every man, namely, to make the most of what he has. To this end, he may form a border round the whole gar- den, from five to ten feet wide, according to the size of the piece of land ; next to this border, a walk may be made from three to six feet wide; the centre part of the garden may be divided into squares, on the sides of which a border may be laid out three or four feet wide, in which the various kinds of herbs may be raised, and also Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, Strawberries, &c. The centre beds may be planted with all the various kinds of vegetables. The outside porders, facing the east, south, and west, will be useful for raising the earliest fruits and vegetables ; and the north bor- _ der, being shady and cool, will serve for raising and pricking 2 16 GENERAL REMARKS. that I am an advocate for early sowing and planting, even at the risk of losing a little seed, provided the ground be fit to receive it. A light, sandy soil will be benefited if worked when moist, as such treatment will have a tendency to make it more compact; on the contrary, if a clayey soil be worked when too wet, it kneads like dough, and never fails to bind when drought follows; and this not only prevents the seed from rising, but injures the plants materially in their subse- quent growth, by its becoming impervious to moderate rains, dews, air, and the influence of the sun, all of which are necessary to the promotion of vegetation. Some gardeners, as well as some writers, recommend certain fixed days for sowing and planting particular kinds of seed; I think it necessary to guard my readers against being misled. The failure of crops may be often attributed to the observance of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of seed be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will become chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they be sown in very dry weather, the germinative parts of the seed may become injured by the burning rays of the sun, or the young plants may get devoured by insects as fast as they come up. To obviate these difficulties, I have generally allowed a week or ten days for sowing the seed, intending the medium as the proper time for the vicinity of New-York. With this clearly borne in mind, the reader who observes the difference in the degrees of heat and cold in the different parts of the country, will know how to apply these instructions accordingly. Much depends on the manures used on particular kinds of soil. The great art of improving sandy and clayey soils, consists in giving the former such dressings of clay, cow dung, and other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to bind and make them more compact, and consequently, more retentive of moisture ; and to the latter, coats of horse dung, ashes, sand, and such other composts as may tend to sepa- rate the particles and open the pores of the clay, so as to cause it to approach as nearly as possible to a loam. GENERAL REMARKS. we The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less retentive will it be of moisture; the more toa clayey, the longer will it retain it; and the finer the particles of which the clay is composed, the more tenacious will it be of water, and, consequently, the longer in drying, and the harder when dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the long- est, without becoming hard when dry, is, of all others, the best adapted for raising the generality of plants in the greatest perfection. This last deseribed soil is called loam, and is a medium earth, between the extremes of clay and sand. I have, in most cases, recommended drills to be made at certain depths for the different kinds of seed; and when I have stated that the drills should be two inches deep, it is intended that the seed should be covered only one inch, which it will be when planted in these drills, and. covered ; and so in proportion for any other depth required. This may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but circum- stances alter cases; if, for instance, some particular crops should fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be far advanced, to risk a farther planting of seed, even if the weather be hot and the ground dry. If this be planted a little deeper, it may escape the violent heat of the sun, and in the event of a shower, the ground would become suffi- ciently moist to bring it up; whereas it sometimes happens that seed sown after a shower does not vegetate until after the season is too far advanced to bring the crop to perfection. The work of drilling by those who have no machine, may be performed in various ways; in some cases a plough is used, in others a small hoe, or a dibble drawn along the edge of a board or line; it is of little consequence which way the work is done, if it be well done. While I leave the gardener to make his own choice of tools, I would suggest that he be provided with two or three drilling machines ; these, every handy man can make for himself; they should be in the form of a garden rake, with a stout, heavy back, and five teeth, about two inches broad, and tapered so as to enter the 2 18 GENERAL REMARKS. ground, and leave drills two inches deep. If one be made with the teeth eight inches apart, another twelve, and another fourteen, they will be useful in making drills for the various kinds of seed; and drills thus made serve instead of strain- ing a line when transplanting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leek plants, &c.; the line being stretched at one edge of the bed, and the drilling machine drawn straight by the line, makes five drills at once. If they are straight, they may be kept so, by keeping one drill open for the outside tooth to work in, until the ground be all drilled. Gardeners practice different methods of covering up seed; some do it with a hoe, others with a rake or harrow; some draw a portion of the earth to the side of the bed, and after sowing the seed, return it regularly over the bed; in some particular cases a sieve is used, in others a roller. Rolling or treading in seed is necessary in dry seasons, but it should never be done when the ground is wet. There is nothing that protects young crops of Turnips, Cabbage, and other small plants, from the depredations of the fly, so well as rolling; for when the surface is rendered com- pletely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harbour they would otherwise have under the clods and small lumps of earth. This method will be found more effectual than soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants with any composition whatever; but as the roller must only be used previous to or at the time of sowing the seed, and not even then if the ground be wet, it is necessary that the gardener should have a hogshead always at hand in dry weather, containing infusions made of waste tobacco, lime, soot, cowdung, elder, burdock leaves, &c. A portion of these ingredients, or any other preparation that is pernicious or poisonous to insects, without injuring the plants, thrown into a hogshead kept filled up with water, if used moderately over beds of young plants in dry weather, would, in almost every case, insure a successful crop. Saltpetre is pernicious to many species of insects; it is GENERAL REMARKS. 19 also an excellent manure, and may be used to great advan- tage when dissolved in the proportion of one pound to four gallons of water. This liquid, applied to plants through the rose of a watering-pot, will preserve health and vigour. Soapsuds are equally beneficial, if used occasionally in the same manner—say once a week. These remedies, applied alternately, have been known to preserve Melon and Cucum- ber vines from the ravages of the yellow fly, bugs, blight, &c., and to keep the plants in a thriving condition. As liquid, however, cannot be conveniently used on a large “piece of land, it may be necessary, if insects are numerous, to sow tobacco dust, mixed with road dust, soot, ashes, lime, or the dust of charcoal, in the proportion of half a bushel per acre, every morning, until the plants are free or secure from their attacks. Turnip seed will sometimes sprout in forty- eight hours. Cabbage seed ought to come up within a week after it is sown; but it sometimes happens that the whole is destroyed before a plant is seen above ground; the seeds- man, in this case, is often blamed, but without cause.* A correspondent has communicated the result of an exper- iment he has tried for preventing the attacks of flies or fleas on Turnips. He says, “Steep your seed in a pint of warm water for two hours, in which is infused one ounce of salt- petre; then dry the seed, and add currier’s oil sufficient to wet the whole; after which mix it with plaster of Paris, so as to separate and render it fit for sowing.” Fish oil is * As the truth of the old adage, That one ounce of prevention is of more value than a pound of cure, is very generally admitted, I would recom- mend the following method of preparing a bed for the purpose of raising Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, and such other plants as are subject to the attacks of insects: After digging or ploughing the ground in the usual way, collect any combustibles that are attainable, as dried weeds, sedge, turf, brushwood, leaves, stubble, corn-sta!ks, sawdust, or even litter from the dung-heap, which should be placed in heaps on the seed-beds and burned to ashes; then rake the ground over and sow the seed. which will not be attacked by insects while the eifects of the fire remain. In the event of extremely dry weather, water the beds every evening until the plants are in full leaf. This is an infallible remedy, 20 GENERAL REMARKS. known to be destructive to ants and various other small insects, but it is difficult to apply to plants. In the summer season, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, &c., are particularly subject to the ravages of grubs and caterpillars; to prevent this wholly, is perhaps impossible, but it is not difficult to check these troublesome visitors ; this may be done by searching for them on their first appearance, and destroying them. Early in the morning, grubs may be collected from the earth, within two or three inches of such plants as they may have attacked the night previous. The approach of caterpillars is discoverable on the leaves of Cabbages, many of which are reduced to a thin white skin by the minute insects which emerge from the eggs placed on them; these leaves being gathered and thrown into the fire, a whole host of enemies may be destroyed at once ; whereas, if they are suffered to remain, they will increase so rapidly, that in a few days the plantation, however extensive, may become infested ; and, when once these arrive at the butterfly or moth stage of existence, they become capable of perpetu- ating their destructive race to an almost unlimited extent. The same remarks apply to all other insects in a torpid state. Worms, maggots, snails, or slugs, may be driven away by sowing salt or lime in the spring, in the proportion of two to three bushels per acre, or by watering the soil occasionally with salt and water, using about two pounds of salt to four gallons of water; or the slug kind may be easily entrapped on small beds of plants, by strewing slices of turnip on them late in the evening; the slug or snail will readily crowd on them, and may be gathered up early in the morning (before sunrise) and destroyed. Moles may be annoyed and driven away, by obstructing the passage in their burrows with sticks smeared with tar. First insert a clean stick from the surface through the bur- rows; then dip others in tar, and pass them through into the floor of the burrows, being careful not to rub off the tar in the operation. ‘Tar is also an effectual remedy against smut GENERAL REMARKS. 21 in wheat: after being heated in a kettle until it becomes thin, it may be stirred in among the grain until it becomes saturated. The wheat should afterward be mixed with a sufficient quantity of wood ashes to dry and render it fit for sowing. To prevent depredations from crows, steep corn in strong saltpetre brine, sow it over the land, or steep your seed corn; and if the crows once get a taste, they will forsake the field. Perhaps the next important point to be attended to is the most proper rotation of crops. Virgil, who was a philoso- pher as well as a poet, very justly observes, that ‘‘ THE TRUE REPOSE OF THE EARTH IS A CHANGE OF ITS PRODUCTIONS.” It is a curious fact, that a plant may be killed by the poison which it has itself secreted, as a viper may be de- stroyed by its own venom. Hence it has been very gene- rally noticed, that the soil in which some particular vege- tables have grown, and into which they have discharged the excretions of their roots, is rendered noxious to the prosperity of plants of the same or allied species, though it be well adapted to the growth and support of other distinct species of vegetables. It is proved by experience, that fall Spinach is an excellent preparative for Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Salsify, and all other tap, as well as tuberous rooted vegetables. Celery or Potatoes constitute a suitable preparative for Cabbage, Cauliflower, and all other plants of the Brassica tribe; as also Artichokes, Asparagus, Lettuce, and Onions, provided such eround be well situated, which is a circum- stance always to be duly considered in laying out a garden. Lands that have long lain in pasture are, for the first three or four years after being tilled, superior for Cabbage, Tur- nips, Potatoes, &c., and afterward for culinary vegetables in general. The following rules are subjoined for farther government : Fibrous rooted plants may be alternated with tap or tuberous rooted, and vice versa. 292 GENERAL REMARKS. > Plants which produce luxuriant tops, so as to shade the land, to be succeeded by such as yield small tops, or narrow leaves. Plants which during their growth require the operation of stirring the earth, to precede such as do not admit of such culture. Ground which has been occupied by Artichokes, Aspara- gus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, or such other crops as remain long on a given spot, should be subjected to a regular rotation of crops, for at least as long a period as it remained under such permanent crops. Hence, in all gardens judiciously man- aged, the Strawberry bed is changed every three or four years, till it has gone the circuit of all the compartments ; and Asparagus beds, &c., should be renewed on the same principle, as often as they fail to produce luxuriantly. In- deed, no two crops should be allowed to ripen their seed in succession in the same soil, if it can be avoided; because, if it be not exhausted by such crops, weeds will accumulate more than on beds frequently cultivated. Manure should be applied to the most profitable and ex- hausting crops; and the succession of crops should be so arranged, that the ground may be occupied by plants either valuable in themselves, or which may contribute to the in- creased value of those which are to follow; and the value of the labour required to mature vegetables, and prepare them for market, should be always taken into consideration. Many kinds of seed, such as Asparagus, Capsicum, Celery, Fetticus, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsnip, Parsley, Rhubarb, Salsify, Spinach, &c., will not vegetate freely in dry weather, unless the ground be watered or rolled; where there is no roller on the premises, the following contrivance may answer for small beds as a substitute : after the seed is sown, and the ground well raked, take a board the whole length of the bed, lay it flat on the ground, begin at one edge of the bed, and walk the whole length of it; this will press the soil on the seed, then shift the board till you have gone over the whole bed. GENERAL REMARKS. 23 In the absence of boards, tread in the seed with your feet, or strike on the bed with the back of your spade or shovel; but this should not be done when the ground is wet. If it be necessary at any time to sow seed in extremely dry weather, it is recommended to soak the seed in water, and dry it with sulphur. This practice, with attentive water- ing, will cause the seed to vegetate speedily. If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when the ground is dry, the transplanting should always be done as soon as the earth is turned over, and the roots of the plants, before they are set out, should be steeped in mud made of rich compost. I have, in most cases, recommended seed to be sown in drills drawn from eight to twelve inches apart, in preference to sowing broadcast, because the weeds can be more easily destroyed by means of a small hoe, which, if properly used, greatly promotes the growth of young plants. —— The following table may be useful to the gardener, in showing the number of plants or trees that may be raised on an acre of ground, when planted at any of the under-men- tioned distances : Distance apart. No. of Plants. Distance apart. No. of Plants. Lf aoe ot ee. £5,000" tech e eh ge at Seen Pepe SL I ISOO is teehee ese Ue Meet ss fs fcc ft LO,G00 | to feet wits ss ere bdo Pec ew | GOOF | TO teen eis ts. eas Loe BECO is oo) 4 BAO Tieh feeb orcs enue Cate aoe AL GRETA Nits Amara Ola 6212 at a am al a Pt ECE Te ein oo TeeL tet ede) ewan iicet ce ete) POLO. | SO teek ess a. eta ee The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as are not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a garden, as it shows at one view many proportions of an acre of land, in squares 24 GENERAL REMARKS. of different dimensions. The last line, for instance, shows that, if forty-eight trees be planted on an acre, each thirty feet apart, there may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet square, or thirty beds of forty-eight feet square, formed from the same quantity of land. An allowance of about one-eighth must, however, be made from the above calculation for walks and paths. The table may also serve to show the gardener how to dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may be allotted for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it requires three hundred and two trees to plant an acre when placed twelve feet from each other, it will require as many heaps of manure to cover the same quantity of ground, if dropped the same distance apart. It therefore follows, that if one hundred loads be allowed to the acre, each load must be divided into three heaps. If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every load must be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion to the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should choose to drop his heaps five paces or fifteen feet apart, he may make such distribution of his loads as to have one hundred and ninety-three heaps on the acre of land; in which case, by dividing each load into four heaps, he will require only forty-eight loads to cover the acre, and he may decrease the quantity still more, by allowing greater distances from heap to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller proportions, so as to accommodate himself to whatever quantity of manure he may allot to any given quantity of ground. As it may not be generally known that some kinds of seed are apt to lose their vegetative qualities much sooner than others, the following hints are subjoined as some rule for the gardener’s government, provided the seed is carefully preserved, and not exposed to excess of heat, air, or damp- ness: GENERAL REMARKS. 25 Parsnip, Rhubarb, and other light, scale-like seeds, cannot be safely trusted after they are a year old. Beans and Peas of different species, Capsicum, Carrot, Cress, Leek, Nasturtium, Okra, Onion, Salsify, Scorzonera, and small Herb seed in general, may be kept two years. Artichoke, Asparagus, Egg-plant, Endive, Fetticus, Let- tuce, Mustard, Parsley, Skirret, and Spinach seed, may with care be preserved three years. Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Radish, and Turnip seed, will keep four years, if properly attended to. Beet, Cucumber, Gourd, Melon, Pumpkin, and Squash, also, Burnet, Chervil, and Sorrel seed, have been known to grow freely when five and even seven years old; but it is not prudent to venture seed in the garden, of the soundness of which we are not certain. In order to put such on their guard as may attempt to raise seed either for their own use or for the market, I would observe that great care is necessary, as'it is an indubitable fact, that if seed of similar species be raised near each other, degeneracy will be the consequence ; it is, therefore, difficult for any one man to raise all sorts of seed, good and true to their kind, in any one garden. If roots of any kind become defective, they are unfit for seed, as the annexed fact will show. I once planted for seed some beautiful orange-coloured roots of Carrots, but as they had been previously grown with some of a lemon-colour, they produced seed of a mixed and spurious breed ; and as this is not a solitary instance of degeneracy from the like cause, I have come to the conclusion, that as in the animal frame, so it is in the vegetable system—disorders very fre- quently lay dormant from one generation to another, and at length break out with all their vigour; I would therefore advise seed growers not to attempt to ‘“ bring a clean thing out of an unclean,” but if they find a mixture of varieties among their seed roots, to reject the whole, or they will in- fallibly have spurious seed. 3 26 GENERAL REMARKS. TABLE AND EXPLICATION. ** In order to aid the novice in gardening, the following brief classification of such species and varieties as comprise our catalogue of vegetable seed is submitted, and it is pre- sumed that the connecting links, and explication of this table, will not be altogether uninteresting to the experienced gar- dener and seedsman. Most essential Nutriment, CATALOGUE. : Quick — in Germinating. _ Medium in Germinating. in Germinating. transplanted. Heat. Moisture * lender. ANNICHOKO tetecn eee ASparngus .. cece cece Beans (English Dwarfs). #| Beans (Kidney Beans (pule) MB BCCt.n 6 o.n0.0 wees 4} Borecole, or Kale, &e.. Broccoliereacniclesnensislenideicralic Cauliflower... 2.2000 pe Pae e Anas odad Carrot. ....0eee. Celery.....c0- Corn Salads... Can ot ce Cress. SSoadAood * ©/Half-Hardy. 2 _ |Hardy. oes Capable of being ess Oo coosoc]o “eoooescceo a| Indian Corn..... WGC ae sieeve nse §| Lettuce.. #4) Melon (musk). | Melon (water). Tomatoe...... LUT S 4 SAB ado Bos Herbs in general. In explication of the table, it may be necessary first to premise, that in the classification, as regards the germinating powers of different kinds of seed, it is conceded that if some of those denominated medium were put upon an equal foot- ing with some of the class denominated quick-growing, they would vegetate in about the same time. For instance, Peas GENERAL REMARKS, 27 would sprout as quick as Kidney Beans, with the same tem- perature; but Peas, being hardy, are generally planted a month earlier in the season. If Beans were planted at the same time, they would rot for want of genial heat necessary to their germination. i Many of the species denominated medium and tardy, re- quire considerable moisture to produce vegetation ; when not attainable, tardiness of growth, and sometimes total failure, are the consequence ; judicious gardeners, however, generally obviate difficulties of this nature, by sowing such seed at the most favourable seasons. Those who delay sowing Carrot, Celery, Leek, Parsley, Onion, Parsnip, Spinach, &c., until dry summer weather, render themselves liable to disappoint- ment and loss thereby. * As some gardeners are apt to attribute all failures of seed to its defectiveness, I shall, in the hope of convincing such of their error, offer a few observations under each head of the table. The first and second classes, denominated hardy and half- hardy, are subject to risk in unpropitious seasons, from un- fitness of the soil to promote vegetation, rendered so by cold rains and variable weather. | If sprouted seed survive a severe chill, it is the more susceptible of frost, to which it is * As the matter relative to the first seven columns was in type previous to the introduction of the last two columns, I would here offer a few ob- servations illustrative of their object. People in general, from not con- sidering that the products of our gardens, being natives of the various cli- mates of the earth, have each its peculiar aliment, expect to raise whatever they may wish for at almost any season. By referring to the classification in the eighth and ninth columns, they will be at once convinced of their error, as it will appear evident that such vegetables as require heat will grow best in.summer, while those whose most essential nutriment is moisture. must be raised either in spring or autumn. It may be necessary to remind the gardener that, from the American spring being short, little can be done before the approach of warm weather; it should therefore be our object to improve the autumn months in the cultivation of such vege- tables as can be brought to maturity before the setting in of winter. Having under each head of the Calendar recommended the most appropriate seasons for the different articles, it is unnecessary to dilate farther here, except to invoke my readers to adhere strictly thereto. 28 GENERAL REMARKS. frequently subjected early in the season. Some species of plants that, in an advanced stage of growth, will stand a hard winter, are often cut off by very slight frost while germinating, especially if exposed to the heat of the sun after a frosty night, or while in a frozen state. Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, Turnip, and many other growing plants, which survive the ordinary winters of England, are here classed as half-hardy, for the reasons above stated. The third class, or most tender species, frequently perish from excess of rain. Lima Beams, for instance, have often to be replanted three or four times in the month of May, before any will stand. Melons, Cucumbers, Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c., are also often cut off by variableness of the weather; indeed, it is unreasonable to expect natives of tropical climates to thrive or even live in a climate adverse to that in which nature first produced them, unless protected or nursed in unpropitious seasons, as recommended under the head forcing vegetables. Those who plant tender things in open gardens early in the season, must reconcile them- selves to loss in the event of unfavourable weather, instead of throwing blame on the seedsman. The fourth class, embracing such species and varieties as, from their nature, are apt to vegetate quickly, are very liable to be devoured by insects before they make any show on the surface. Turnip seed, for instance, will sprout within forty- eight hours after being sown; and under favourable circum- stances, most of the species of this class will come up within a week; but if insects attack the seed beds in dry weather, a total loss of crops will be the consequence. Every expe- rienced farmer is convinced of this fact, by having frequently to sow his Turnip ground three or four times before he can get any to stand. Sometimes a sudden shower of rain will cause plants to grow out of the reach of insects, but every good gardener should have his remedies at hand to apply to seed beds in GENERAL REMARKS. 29 general, and especially to those in which plants are raised for the purpose of being transplanted. Those species and varieties embraced in the fifth and sixth columns, often take from two to three or four weeks to vege- tate in unfavourable seasons. Some plants are retarded by cold, others by excess of dry weather; and at such times, seed may fail to vegetate for want of pressure. In the event of drought after neavy rains, seed and young plants often perish through incrustation of the soil, and from other untoward circumstances, which can neither be controlled or accounted for, even by the most assiduous and precise gar- dener. It must, however, be conceded, that failures often occur, through seed being deposited too deep in the ground, or left too near the surface; sometimes, for want of sufh- ciency of seed in a given spot, solitary plants will perish, they not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and very frequently injudicious management in ma- nuring and preparing the soil will cause defeat. I have been induced to expatiate, and to designate, in the seventh range of the preceding table, such plants as are gene- rally cultivated first in seed beds, and afterward transplanted for the purpose of being accommodated with space to mature in, with a view to answer at once the thousand and one questions asked by inexperienced cultivators, at my counter. Some persons, from ignorance of the nature and object of raising plants for transplanting, ask for pounds of seed, when an ounce is amply sufficient for their purpose. For example, an ounce of Celery seed will produce ten thousand plants. An ounce of Cabbage seed will produce from three to four thousand, sufficient, when transplanted, to cover nearly half an acre of and, which land, if sown with Spinach, for instance, would require from four to six pounds of seed. To prevent any altercation on this subject, I would observe, in conclusion, that many other vegetables would admit of being transplanted besides those designated in our table; but as there is considerable risk and trouble inseparable from _ 3* 30 GENERAL REMARKS. the operation, it is needless to apply it, unless there are para- mount advantages to be gained, the reverse of which would be the case, under ordinary circumstances, with the gene- rality of those plants not thus designated. Instead of answering any more queries, I think I shall for the future fullow the example of the truly eccentric Aber- nethy, and refer all enquirers for information to my books, which contain an answer to every important question that has been put to me on the subject of gardening since I became an author. T. BRIDGEMAN. *_* Previous to the commencement of our Catalogue, it may be necessary to remind the reader, that the directions which follow are founded on the results of practical experi- ence in the vicinity of New-York Crry, where the soil is generally susceptible of gardening operations toward the end of March. These directions may, however, be applied to all other parts of the Unrrep Srares, by a minute observ- ance of the difference in temperature. In the extreme northern parts of the State of New-York, as well as in all other places similarly situated, the directions for the beginning of April will apply to the latter end of the same month, with very few exceptions. In our Sournern States, the directions for APRIL, which may be considered as the first gardening month in the Eastern, WESTERN, and Miwp.e States, will apply to Janu- ary, February, or to whatever season gardening operations may commence in the respective States. In the varied climates of each particular State, if the same rule of application be pursued in accordance with the Calen- dar, success is certain. CATALOGU. &e., &e. ARTICHOKE. ArticHaut. Cynara. VARIETIES. Cynara Scolymus, or French. | Cynara Hortensis, or Globe. Tue garden Artichoke is a native of the South of Europe, and much cultivated for the London and Paris markets. It is a perennial plant, producing from the root annually its large squamose heads, in full growth, from June or July, until Gctober or November. The Globe Artichoke, which produces large globular heads, is best for general culture, the heads being considerably larger, and the eatable parts more thick and plump. Both sorts may be raised from seed,* or young suckers taken from old plants in the spring. A plantation of Arti- chokes will produce good heads six or seven years, and sometimes longer; but it must be observed, that if a supply of this delicious vegetable be required throughout the season, a small plantation should be made from suckers every spring, for a successive crop, as the young plants will continue to produce their heads in perfection, after the crops of the old standing ones are over. The most likely way to obtain a supply of Artichokes from seed, is to sow the seed in the latter end of March, or at any time in April, in a bed of good rich earth, or it may be planted in drills one inch deep, and about twelve inches apart. The ground should be light and moist, not such as is apt to become bound up by heat, or that, in consequence of * One ounce of seed will produce about six hundred plants. 32 ARTICHOKE. containing too large a proportion of sand, is liable to become violently hot in summer, for this is extremely injurious to these plants. After the plants are up, they should be kept free from weeds, and the earth often loosened around them. The business of transplanting may be done in cloudy or wet weather, at any time after the plants are from nine to twelve inches high. Having fixed upon a proper soil and situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and trench the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, imcor- porating the manure therewith; this being done, take up the plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little, and dressing their leaves, plant them with a dibble, in rows five feet asunder, and two feet from plant to plant, leaving part of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of the plants free from any earth over them, and give each plant a little water to settle the roots. The winter dressing of Artichokes is an important opera- tion; on it depends much of their future success. This should not be given them as long as the season continues mild, that they may have all possible advantage of growth, and be gradually inured to the increasing cold weather; but it should not be deferred too late, lest by the sudden setting in of hard frost, to which we are subject in the Northern States, the work be neglected, and the plants consequently exposed to devastation and loss. In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the ground, leaving the small ones which rise from the hearts of the plants; after this, lme and mark out a trench in the middle, between each row, from fourteen to sixteen inches wide, presuming that the rows are five feet apart, as directed. Then dig the surface of the beds lightly from trench to trench, burying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather the earth around the crowns of the plants to the height of about six inches, placing it in gently between the young rising leaves, without burying them entirely under it; this done, dig the trenches one spade deep, and distribute the earth equally ARTICHOKE. Bs between and on each side of the plants, so as to level the ridges, giving them, at the same time, a neat rounding form; finish by casting up with a shovel the loose earth out of the bottom of the trenches evenly over the ridges, in order that the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c., may immediately run off; on which account the trenches ought to have a gen- tle declivity, as the lodgment of water about the roots in winter is the greatest evil and danger to which they are expos- ed, even greater than the most severe frosts to which we are subject. The beds are to remain so, until there is an appearance of hard frost, when they should be covered with light dung, litter, leaves of trees, or the like, the better to preserve the crowns and roots from its rigour. In this manner, the roots will remain in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as the very severe frosts are over, the beds must be uncovered, and when you perceive the young shoots begin to appear above ground, or rather when they are one or two inches up, then, and. not till then, proceed to level down the beds, throwing the earth into the alleys or trenches, and round them ina - neat manner; then dig in the short manure, and loosen all the earth around the plants. At the same time, examine the number of shoots arising on each stool, and select three of the strongest and healthiest looking on every stool, which are to remain; all above that number are to be slipped off close to the roots with the hand, unless you want some to make new plantations with, in which case an extra number for that purpose are to remain on the parent plants, until they are about eight or ten inches high from their roots, or junction with the old plants, when they are to be slipped off, and planted in a bed prepared in the same manner as directed for the young plants, taking care, at the same time, to close the earth about the crowns of the roots, and draw it up a little to the remaining suckers. Observe, the spring dressing is to be given when the plants are in the above-described state, whether that happens in 34. ASPARAGUS. February, March, or April, occasioned by the difference of climate, in the respective States, or by the earliness or late- ness of the spring. The gardeners near London generally take off the side suckers, or small Artichokes, when they are about the size of ahen’s egg. These meet with a ready sale in the mar- kets, and the principal heads that are left are always larger and more handsome. The maturity of a full-grown Arti- choke is apparent by the opening of the scales ; and it should always be cut off before the flower appears in the centre; the stem should be cut close to the ground at the same time. Artichokes are esteemed a luxury by epicures. To have them in perfection, they should be thrown into cold water as soon as gathered, and after having been soaked and well washed, put inte the boiler when the water is hot, with a little salt, and kept boiling until tender, which generally requires, for full-grown Artichokes, from an hour and a, half to two hours. When taken up, drain and trim them; then serve them up with melted butter, pepper, salt, and such other condiment as may best suit the palate. ASPARAGUS. AsperGE. Asparagus officinalis. VARIETIES. Gravesend. | Large Battersea. Large White Reading. Large Green, or Giant. Tus plant is a native of cold climates, and is found grow- ing wild in Russia and Poland, where it is eaten by the cattle the same as grass. Tt will endure the severity of our winters, and produce its buds, when the weather gets mild; but as garden products are generally scarce after a hard ASPARAGUS. 35 winter, the gardener who studies his interest will make the most of the spring season, and raise all he can before the market becomes glutted; to this end, he is recommended to prepare for forcing this vegetable, as soon as the coldest of the winter is past. (See article on Forcing Vegetables.) Asparagus may be raised by sowing the seed in the fall as soon as ripe, or in March and the early part of April. One ounce of seed will produce about a thousand plants. It requires some of the best ground in the garden. The seed may be sown in drills, ten or twelve inches asunder, and covered about an inch with light earth. When the plants are up, they will need a careful hoeing, and if well culti- vated, and kept free from weeds, they will be large enough to transplant when they are a year old. Some keep them in the nursery bed until they are two years old. A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed every year, will produce good buds for twenty years or more. New plantations of Asparagus may be made in autumn, or before the buds get far advanced in spring, say in Febru- ary, March, or April, according to situation and circum- stances. The ground for the bed must not be wet, nor too strong or stubborn, but such as is moderately light and plia- ble, so that it will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situation that enjoys the full rays of the sun. It should have a large supply of well rotted dung, three or four inches thick, and then be regularly trenched two spades deep, and the dung buried equally in each trench twelve or fifteen inches below the surface. When this trenching is done, lay two or three inches of thoroughly rotted manure over the whole surface, and dig the ground over again eight or ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing, and incorpo- rating it well with the earth. In family gardens, it is customary to divide the ground thus prepared into beds, allowing four feet for every four rows of plants, with alleys two feet and a half wide between each bed. Strain your line along the bed stx inches from 36 ASPARAGUS. the edge; then, with a spade, cut out a small trench or drill close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side next the line nearly upright; when one trench is opened, plant that before you open another, placing the plants upright ten or twelve inches distant in the row, and let every row be twelve inches apart. The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, and so that the crown of the plants may also stand upright, and two or three inches below the surface of the ground, spreading their roots somewhat regularly against the back of the trench, and. at the same time drawing a little earth up against them with the hand as you place them, just to fix the plants in their due position until the row is planted; when one row is thus placed, with a rake or hoe draw the earth into the trench over the plants, and then proceed to open another drill or trench, as before directed; and fill and cover it in the same manner, and so on till the whole is planted ; then let the sur- face of the beds be raked smooth and clear from stones, &c. Some gardeners, with a view to have extra large heads, place their plants sixteen inches apart in the rows, instead of twelve; and by planting them in the quincunz manner, that is, by commencing the second row eight inches from the end of the first, and the fourth even with the second, the plants will form rhomboidal squares, instead of rectangular ones, and every plant will thus have room to expand its roots and leaves luxuriantly.* i : *The above directions are intended for family gardens. Those who may wish to raise Asparagus in large quantities for market. should prepare the ground with a plough, and plant two rows in each bed, which may be carried to any length required. If several beds are wanted, they may be planted in single rows four or five feet apart, in order that the plough may be worked freely between them. Frequent ploughing will cause the roots to spread, so as to widen the beds, and the winter dressing may be per- formed in a great measure with the plough. After the Asparagus is cut, the ground between the beds may be ploughed, and planted with Cabbage, Potatoes, or any other vegetable usually cultivated in rows, ASPARAGUS. 37 WINTER DRESSING OF ASPARAGUS BEDS. About the beginning of November, if the stalks of Aspar- agus turn yellow, which is a sign of their having finished their growth for the season, cut them down close to the earth, carry them off the ground, and clear the beds care- fully from weeds. Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of good manure; let it be laid equally over the beds, two or three inches thick, after which, with a fork made for the purpose, (which should have three flat tines,) dig in the dung quite down to the crowns of the plants, by which means the roots will be greatly benefited ; as the winter rains will wash the manure down among them. It is the practice with some gardeners to dig the alleys at every autumn dressing, and cover the beds with the soil taken out; this may be done for the first two years after the beds are made, but not afterward ; as, when the plants are in full growth, their roots and crowns extend into the alleys, and digging them up frequently de- stroys plants, or renders them too weak to produce buds in perfection. The beds will be greatly benefited if covered to the depth of several inches with leaves, sea-weed, or long litter from the livery stables. The seedling Asparagus should also have a slight dressing, that is, clear the bed from weeds, and then spread light dung over it, to the depth of one or two inches, to defend the’ crown of the plants from frost. SPRING DRESSING OF THE BEDS. This work should be done from about the latter end of March to the middle of April, or just before the buds begin to rise. After clearing away all long litter, or whatever may encumber the ground, spread the short dung over the whole surface, and dig it in: if the alleys be dug at the same time, it will be very beneficial to the plants. Care must be taken at this season not to wound the crowns with the tines of the fork, but forking the beds should not be neglected, as admit- 38 ASPARAGUS. ting the sun and rain into the ground, induces the plants to throw up buds of superior size; to promote such a desirable object, the ground should be kept clear of weeds at all sea- sons, as these greatly impoverish the soil, and frequently smother the plants. The gardeners of England raise Asparagus in great per fection, and sometimes have buds weighing from three to five ounces each. Loudon says, in his Encyclopedia of Gardening, that one grower alone has eighty acres entirely under this crop for the London market. Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough to cut for general use, in less than three years from the time of planting, but in the fourth year, when the shoots are three or four inches hich, they will bear extensive cutting, which should, however, be discontinued when no large buds are thrown up. The best way of cutting is to ship the knife down perpendicularly close to each shoot, and cut it off slan- tingly, about three or four inches beneath the ground, taking care not to wound any young buds proceeding from the same root, for there are always several shoots advancing in different stages of growth. Asparagus is considered a wholesome vegetable, and should not be kept long after it is gathered ; after being well washed, it may be tied in bundles of about a dozen buds each, and boiled in water slightly seasoned with salt, until tender, which will be in about twenty minutes; take it up before it loses its true colour and flavour, and serve it up on toasted bread, with melted buiter, &c. BEANS. 39 BEANS. (English Dwarfs.) Feve ve marats. Vicia faba. VARIETIES. Early Mazagan. Sandwich Bean. Early Lisbon. Green Genoa. Early Long Pod. Dwarf Cluster. Large Windsor. White Blossom. Large Toker. Green Nonpareil. Broad Spanish. Sword Long Pod. Tue principal cause of these garden Beans not succeed- ing well in this country, is the summer heat overtaking them before they are podded, which causes the blossom to drop off prematurely; to obviate this difficulty, they should be planted as early in the year as possible; as recommended in the article, “Forwarding Broad Beans.” They are generally planted in England, from October to April, for early crops, and from that time to July, for late crops. It sometimes happens that autumn plantings are injured by the coldness of their winters, but an average crop is generally obtained. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle Sta‘es, if a few of the best varieties of these Beans be planted in the open ground, as soon in the season as it can be brought into good condition, they will come into bearing in reguiar succession, according to their different degrees of earliness, and plant- ings may be repeated every ten days of the first spring month ; but it is only from those that are planted early that any tolerable produce can be expected, as they become defi- cient in quality, as well as in quantity, on the approach of extreme warm weather. In the Southern States they may be planted in succession throughout the autumn and winter months, which will cause them to bear early in the ensuing season. The best mode of planting is in drills, drawn two inches deep, in which the seed Beans may be dropped two or three 40 BEANS. inches apart, according to their size, and the drills may be from two to three feet asunder. A strong clayey soil is the ® most suitable; but they often do well in moderately light ground, provided it be well trodden, or rolled, after the Beans are planted. As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high, they will need a careful hoeing; and if some earth be drawn up to their stems, three or four times in the course of their growth, it will greatly refresh and strengthen them. When they arrive at full bloom, and the lower pods begin to set, the tops may be broken off. If this be done at the proper time, it will promote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops to nourish, the whole effort of the root will go to the support of the fruit. Broad Beans are particularly subject to green bugs. To- bacco water, or salt water, will sometimes destroy them ; but the most certain way is to watch their first appearance, and pick off that part on which they first settle, and burnit; or if such plants be cut down close to the ground, they will produce fresh shoots, which may bear a good crop. One quart of :seed Beans will be required for every sixty feet of row, allowing the smallest sorts to be planted about two inches apart, and the largest four inches. The beans should be gathered young, and shelled while fresh. After having been washed, let them be boiled in plenty of water with a little salt and a bunch of green parsley. They take from thirty to forty mimutes to boil, according to age, and may be served up with melted butter, gravy, &e.; but they are very good when cooked and eaten with fat pork, or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon BEANS. 41 BEANS. (Kidney Dwarfs.) Haricot. Phaseolus vulgaris, ete. VARIETIES. Early Denmark. Early Black Dwarf. Early Mohawk. Large White Kidney Dwarf. Early Valentine. White Cranberry Dwarf. Early Yellow Six Weeks. Red Cranberry Dwarf. Early Dun-coloured, or Quaker. | Yellow Cranberry Dwarf. Early China Dwarf. Refugee, or Thousand to One. Early Rachel, or Quail’s Head. | Marble Swiss Bean. Early Rob Roy. Royal Dwarf Kidney, or French. Turse varieties of Beans, being natives of India, South America, and other warm climates, will not endure the least cold, and it is therefore always hazardous to plant them in the open ground until settled warm weather. The earliest varieties, if planted toward the end of April or the first week in May, will come to perfection in from six to eight weeks after planting. Some of the later varieties will keep longer in bearing, and are esteemed by some on that account. These, with some of the early varieties, may be planted in the months of May and June; and if a regular succession of young beans be required throughout the summer, some of the varieties should be planted every two weeks, from the last week in April until the beginning of August.* These Beans require a light, rich soil, in which they should be planted in hills, three or four in a hill, or drills about two inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches from each other; the drills may be from two to three feet apart. The Refugees do best when planted in hills. As the Beans pro- gress in growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing some ee ee * Some gardeners, anxious to have Beans early, are apt to begin planting too soon in the season, and very frequently lose their first crops. It should be recollected, that these Beans are next to Cucumbers and Melons as re- gards tenderness, and will always grow quicker and yield better, if the planting be delayed until settled warm weather. The Early Mohawk is the hardiest, and may sometimes succeed well, if planted about the middle of April, but it is much safer to delay the planting of any quantity until towards the end of the month. Ae 42 BEANS. earth up to their stems at the same time, which will cause them soon to be fit for the table. . One quart of Kidney Beans will plant from three hundred and fifty to four hundred hills, according to the size of the Beans, allowing four Beans to each hill, or from two hundred and thirty to two hundred and sixty feet of row, allowing six Beans to every foot. These Beans should not be suffered to get old and tough before they are gathered; be careful in trimming them, to strip off the strings. To effect this desirable object, break them across; and, in order to preserve their greenness, soak them in salted water for a short time, then put them into the water while boiling, which should be previously seasoned with salt. When they are tender, which will be in from fif- teen to twenty minutes, take them up and drain them through a collander, in order to render them capable of absorbing a due share of gravy, melted butter, &c. BEANS. (Pole or Running.) HARIcoTs A RAMES. Phaseolus Limensis. VARIETIES. Large White Lima. | Speckled Lima Phaseolus Multiflorus. VARIETIES. Scarlet Runners. London Horticultural. White Dutch Runners. French Bicolour. Dutch Case Knife, or Princess. Red Cranherry. Asparagus, or Yard Long. White Cranberry. TuEsE species and varieties of Beans may be planted early in the month of May and in June, either in hills three feet distant from each other, or in driils about two inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches apart in the drills. BEANS, 43 The poles should be eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed in the ground before the Beans are planted. The varieties of Lima Beans should not be planted in the open groumd until the second week in May, unless the sea- son be very favourable, and the ground warm. As these Beans are apt to get rotten by cold and damp weather, let six or eight be planted half an inch deep round each pole, and afterward thinned, leaving three or four good plants in a hill, which hills should be full four feet distant from each other every way. . The soil for Running Beans should be the same as for Dwarfs, except the Lima, which require richer ground than any of the other sorts. A shovelful of rich light compost, mixed with the earth in each hill, would be beneficial. If any varieties are wanted before the ordinary seasons, they may be planted in flower-pots, in April, and placed in @ greenhouse or garden frame, and being transplanted in May, with the balls of earth entire, will come into bearing ten or fourteen days earlier than those which, in the first instance, are planted in the open ground. ad Tt will require about a quart of Lima Beans to plant one hundred hills. A quart of the smallest-sized Pole Beans will plant three hundred hills and upward, or about two hundred and fifty feet of row, and the largest runners will go about as far as the Lima Beans. Lima Beans should be shelled while fresh, and boiled in plenty of water until tender, which generally takes from fif- teen to twenty minutes. The mode of cooking and prepar- ing the other sorts, is the same as for Kidney Dwarts. 44 BEET. BEET. Berrerave. Beta vulgaris. 5 VARIETIES. Early Blood Turnip-rooted. Karly Scarcity. Early Long Blood. Mangel Wurtzel. Extra Dark Blood. French Sugar, or Silesia. Yellow Turnip-rooted. Siz John Sinclair’s. Beets, in their several varieties, are biennial, and the best blood-coloured are much cultivated for the sake of their roots, which are excellent when cooked, and very suitable for pickling after being boiled tender ; they also, when sliced, make a beautiful garnish for the dish, and the young plants are an excellent substitute for Spinach. The Mangel Wurizel and Sugar Beets are cultivated for cattle. Domestic animals eat the leaves and roots with great avidity. They are excellent food for swine, and also for milch cows; and possess the quality of making them give a large quantity of the best-flavoured milk. The roots are equally fit for oxen and horses, after being cut up into small pieces and mixed with cut straw, hay, or other dry feed.* A small bed of the earliest Turnip-rooted, and other es- teemed kinds of Beets, may be planted in good rich early ground the first week in April, which, being well attended to, will produce good roots in June. Draw drills a foot apart, and from one to two inches deep ; drop the seed along the drills one or two inches from each * An acre of good, rich, loamy soil has been known to yield two thou- sand bushels of beet-roots, some of which weighed from fifteen to twenty pounds each. To produce such enormously large roots, they should be cultivated in drills from two to three feet apart, and the plants thinned to ten or twelve inches in the rows. It is generally conceded, however, that moderate-sized roots contain more saccharine matter, in proportion to their bulk, than extra large roots, and that twenty tons, or about seven hundred bushels, are a very profitable crop for an acre of land, and would be amply sufficient to feed ten cows for three or four months of the year. A gen- tleman in Connecticut computes the products of one-fourth of an acre of good land, at eight tons, which, he says, will support a cow the whole year. He allows five tons to feed on for nine months, and the other three tons to be sold, and the proceeds applied to the purchase of other food, to be given from the time the roots fail im the spring, until new roots are preduced. BEET, _ 45 other, and cover them with earth. Wher the plants are up strong, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches from each other in the rows. The ground should be afterward hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds. If the planting of Beet seed, for general crops, be delayed until May or June, the roots will be much larger and better than those from earlier planting, which, from being frequently stunted in growth by the various changes of weather, become tough, stringy, and of unhandsome shape. In case of the failure of crops, or of unfavourable weather in June, Beet seed planted the first week in July will sometimes produce large, handsome roots, which may be preserved for winter use. The most suitable ground for Beets is that which has been well manured for previous crops, and requires no fresh ma- nure, provided it be well pulverized. It is always best to thin Beets while young. If the tops are used as a vegetable, they should not be left too long for this purpose, or they will greatly injure the roots of those that are to stand. Beds that are to stand through the sum- mer, should be kept clean by repeated hoeings ; and the roots intended for winter use should be taken up in October, or early in November, and stowed away, as directed in the calendar for those months. Allowing Beet seed to be planted on the gardening plan, it will require at the rate of ten pounds for an acre of land, which is two pounds and a half for a rood, and one ounce for every perch, pole, or rod. If cultivated on the field sys- tem, that is, by planting them a sufficient distance apart to admit of ploughing between each row, one half the quantity of seed will be sufficient, or even less, if sown regular. If it be an object with the cultivator to save his seed, he may drop some in each spot where a plant is required, and thin them as before directed. It may be necessary to add, that one pound of Beet seed will measure about two quarts, and as each capsule contains four or five small seed, thinning out the surplus plants is in- dispensable to the production of good roots. 46 BORECOLE, OR KALE. BORECOLE, OR KALE. Cuovu Frist Vert. Brassica oleracea, etc. VARIETIES. Green Curled, or Scotch. Jerusalem, or Buda. Dwarf Brown, or German. Cesarean Kale. Purple Fringed. Thousand-headed Cabbage. Tuere are several sub-varieties of this genus of plants besides those above specified, most of which have large open heads, with curled wrinkled leaves. The Dwarf Curled, or Finely Fringed sorts, are much cultivated in Europe for the table ; and the coarse and tall-growing are considered pro- fitable for cattle. The Thousand-headed Cabbage, and Ce- sarean Kale, grow from three to five feet high, and branch out from the stem, yielding an abundant supply of leaves and sprouts in the winter and spring. For the garden, these several varieties may be treated in every respect as Winter Cabbage. The seed may be sown from about the middle of May to the first week in June, and the plants set out in the month of July, in good rich ground. They are never so delicious as when rendered tender by smart frosts; they are valuable plants to cultivate, particu- larly in the more Southerly States, as they will there be in the greatest perfection during the winter months ; they will also, if planted in a gravelly soil, and in a sheltered warm situation, bear the winter of the Western States; and may be kept in great perfection in the Eastern States, if taken up before the frost sets in with much severity, and placed in trenches, up to their lower leaves, and then covered with straw or other light covering: the heads may be cut off as they are required for use; and in the spring, the stems being raised up, will produce an abundance of delicious greens. One ounce of good Borecole seed will produce about four thousand plants, and may be sown in a border four feet by ten, or thereabout. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 47 BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Cuov DE BRUXELLES rere Brassica oleracea. Turs plant frequently grows from three to five feet high, and produces from the stem small heads resembling cabbages in miniature, each being from one to two inches in diameter. The top of the plant resembles the Savoy, when planted late. The sprouts are used as winter greens, and they become very tender when touched by the frost. The seed may be sown about the middle of May, in the same manner as Borecole, and the plants set out with a dib- ble early in July. The subsequent treatment must be in every respect as for Borecole. Some gardeners, with a view to furnish the New-York markets with greens early in the spring season, when vege- tables in general are scarce, cultivate the common Rapé, (Brassica Rapus;) it bemg a good substitute for Brussels Sprouts, which are not always attainable after a hard winter. If Rape seed be sown early in September, the plants will survive an ordinary winter, and produce top shoots or sprouts early ; but it is best sown as soon as the ground is suscepti- ble of cultivation in the spring, say the last week in March. The sprouts should be cut while young, as such greens then command the best prices, and are more palatable than when far advanced in growth. It may be necessary to add that, in cooking these sprouts, as also Kale, Colewort, and greens in general, they should be put imto hot water, seasoned with salt, and kept boiling briskly until tender. If it be an object to preserve their natural colour, put a small lump of pearlash into the water, which also makes the coarser kinds of cabbage more tender in the absence of meat. 48 BROCCOLI, BROCCOLI. Cuov Brovori, Brassica oleracea Htalica, ; VARIETIES. Early White. Large Purple Cape. Early Dwarf Purple. White Cape, or Cauliflower. Early Green. Sulphur-coloured Cape. Dwarf Brown. Branching Purple. Large Late Purple. Large Late Green. Tue several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower may be justly ranked among the greatest luxuries of the garden. They need only be known in order to be esteemed. The Broccoli produces heads, consisting of a lump of rich, seedy pulp like the Cauliflower, only that some are of a green colour, some purple, some brown, &c., and the white kinds so exactly resemble the true Cauliflower, as to be scarcely distinguishable, either in colour or taste. Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England the greater part of the year, and it is raised with as little trouble as Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the purple Cape Broccoli is now generally understood in this part of America ; but the cultivation of the other kinds has been nearly aban- doned, on account of the ill success attending former attempts to bring them to perfection. In some of the Southern States, where the winters are not more severe than in England, they will stand in the open ground, and continue to produce their fine heads from No- vember to April. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, if the seed of the late kinds be sown in April, and the earlier kinds in May, in the open ground, and treated in the same manner as Cauliflower, it would be the most certain method of obtaining large and early flowers; but as only a part of these crops can be expected to come to per- fection before the approach of winter, the remainder will have to be taken up, laid in by the roots, and covered up with earth to the lower leaves, in some sheltered situation, to promote the finishing of their growth. BROCCOLI... 49 Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and Cauli- flower in any quantity, so as to have all the different varieties in succession throughout the winter months, should have places erected similar to some of our greenhouses : the back ‘and roof may be made of refuse lumber, which being after- ward covered with fresh stable dung, will keep out the frost. The place allotted for Cape Broccoli and Cauliflower should have a glazed roof to face the south; the sashes must be made to take off in mild weather, but they should be always kept shut in severe cold weather, and covered with mats, or boards, litter, &c., so effectually as to keep out the frost. The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved without glass, by having shutters provided to slide over the front in extreme cold weather, which may be covered over with fresh stable dung or other litter. If these plants get frozen, it will be necessary to shade them from the full rays of the sun until they are thawed; this may be done by shaking a little straw on the bed as they lay. It may not, perhaps, be generally understood, that the sud- den transition from cold to heat is more destructive to vege- tables than the cold itself. If plants of any kind get frozen, and cannot be screened from the full rays of the sun, they should be well watered as the air gets warm, and before they begin to thaw ; this will draw out the frost, and may be the means of saving the plants. The proper time for sowing the seed of Purple Cape Broccoli is from the tenth to the twenty-fourth of May: * those who intend to provide a place for the winter keeping * It has been proved by repeated experiments, that the Purple Cape Broccoli succeeds better in our climate than any other variety; and, also, that if Broccoli or Cauliflower plants be retarded in growth by extreme heat, they seldom arrive at full perfection. It is, therefore, important that, the time of sowing the seed of Cape Broccoli be so regulated as to allow, say six weeks of the summer, for the plants to grow in, previous to their being transplanted, and about seven or eight weeks between that and the commencement of cool autumn weather, which is essential to mature them, If seed be sown much before the middle of May, or so Airly that the plants arrive at full growth in the heat of summer, and thereby become 9) 50. BROCCOLI. of the other kinds, may sow seed of the most esteemed varie ties at the same time, or in two or three separate sowings, @ week apart. In order to insure good. stout plants, let the seed at this: season be sown in a moderately shaded border. It is best to sow it in shallow drills, drawn three or four inches apart, in which case, one ounce of seed will occupy a border of about four feet in width by twelve in length, and produce about four thousand strong plants. (See article Cabbage.) In the beginning of July, or when the plants are of sufh- cient size, they should be traneplanted into extraordinarily rich ground, which should be previously brought into good con- dition. This being done, plant them in rows two feet anda half apart, and two feet distant in the rows. As soon as they have taken root, give the ground a deep hoeing, and repeat this two or three times in the course of their growth, drawing some earth around their stems. Some of the Cape Broccoli, if attended to as directed, will come to perfection early in September and in October ; the other kinds will produce their heads in regular succes- sion throughout the winter and spring months, according to their different degrees of earliness, provided an artificial cli- mate be provided for them. These, of course, with what- ever may remain of the Cape Broccoli, will have to be taken up early in October, and laid in carefully, with the roots and stems covered with earth as far as their lower leaves. Those who have not a place provided, may. keep a few in frames, or im a light cellar; but every gardener and country gentle- man should have suitable places erected for a vegetable that yields such a delicious repast, at a time when other luxuries of the garden are comparatively out of our reach. stunted, they generally button, instead of forming perfect heads of flowers, and are consequently of no use but for cattle. In some of the Southern States, late planting of Broccoli and Cauliflower succeeds better than early, because the winters are calculated to mature these vegetables, from their not being subject to injury from slight frost, in a late stage of their growth. CAULIFLOWER. 51 CAULIFLOWER. Cuourteur. Brassica oleracea botrytis. VARIETIES. Early White. | Late White. Hardy Red, or Purple Cauliflower. Tuis is a first rate vegetable, to obtain which, great pains must be taken in every stage of its growth, the extremes of heat and cold being very much against it: which circum- stance accounts for good Cauliflowers being scarcely attain- able in unpropitious seasons, and which the novice falsely attributes to defectiveness of the seed. To produce early Cauliflower, the seed should be sown be- tween the sixteenth and twenty-fourth of September, in a bed of clean, rich earth. In about four or five weeks after- ward, the plants should be pricked out into another bed, at the distance of four inches from each other every way; this bed should be encompassed with garden frames, covered with glazed sashes, and boards or shutters ; the plants should be watered and shaded a few days till they have taken root; they will afterward require light and air every mild day throughout the winter; but the outsides of the frames must be so lined and secured, and the tops of the beds so covered, as to keep out all frost. The plants should be well attended to until the time of transplanting in the spring; and those who have not hand or bell glasses, so as to enable them to set some out by the latter _end of March, should have a frame ready about the last week in February, in order that they may be transplanted to the distance of eight or nine inches apart; this would prevent them from buttoning or growing up weak; if this be not done, some of the strongest plants should be taken out of the beds and planted in flower pots, which may afterward be placed in a frame or greenhouse, until the weather be warm and settled, which may be expected soon after the middle of 52 CAULIFLOWER. April. They should then be turned out with the balls of earth entire, and transplanted into a bed of the richest earth in the garden, at the distance of two feet and a half from each other every way; the residue may be taken up from the frame the last week in April, or earlier, ifthe season proves mild, by means of a garden trowel, and transplanted as above.* The plants should afterward be well cultivated, by hoeing the ground deep around them, and bringing some earth grad- ually up to their stem, so as to push them forward before the approach of warm weather. When the soil has been drawn up to the plants some little time, fork the ground between the rows lightly over, which will promote their growth. They should be liberally supplied with water in dry weather; those out of fiower twice a week, and those in, every other day, which will contribute to their producing very large heads. As the flower heads appear, the larger leaves should be broken down over them, to defend them from the sun and rain, in order that the heads or pulps may be close, and of their nat- ural colour. Plants from the autumn sowing are generally allowed to succeed best ; but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced from seed sown in a hot-bed toward the end of January, or early in February. Great pains must be taken to have the bed in good condition to receive the seed; when the plants are up, they must have air every mild day, and as they pro- * Many persons are apt to forget, that the successful cultivation of Cau- liflower depends on the particular seasons in which the plants are raised and set out ; and, consequently, instead of raising their own plants in the right seasons, apply for them at the seed-stores and gardens, in May and June. Now, it should be recollected, that if early Cauliflower do not ar- rive at, or near perfection, by the end of June, the plants get stunted by the heat, and seldom yield any thing but leaves, except the summer should prove mild, in which case, some of the early plants may flower in autumn; but it is needless to risk the setting out of early Cauliflower plants later than April for the sake of such chance, because plants raised from seed sown about the middle of May, and transplanted in July, are by far the most likely to produce good fall Cauliflower. CAULIFLOWER. We gress in growth, they should have as much air as possible, consistent with their preservation; but the beds must be kept covered up every night, as long as there is any danger of frost. When the plants are three or four inches high, they - must be pricked out three or four inches apart into another bed, and by the latter end of April they may be transplanted ito the ground, and treated in every respect the same as the other. In the early part of May, Cauliflower seed may be sown in the open border, in drills, as recommended for Broccoli, and one ounce of seed will produce about four thousand plants. These plants should be pricked out in June, and transplanted into good ground early in July, to flower in Autumn: those that are not likely to flower by the last of October, should be taken up and provided for in the manner recommended for Broccoli. Cauliflower, and also Broccoli, should be gathered while the pulp is close and perfect. After having trimmed off some’ of the outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of water seasoned with salt, taking care to skim it, and also to ease the cover of the pot so as not to confine the steam. Take them up as soon as the fork will enter the stems easily, which will be in from ten to twenty minutes, according to their size and age; drain them so as to make them susceptible of ab- sorbing a due proportion of gravy, melted butter, &c. This renders them a palatable and dainty dish. 5° 54 CABBAGE. CABBAGE. Cnov. Brassica oleracea, etc. VARIETIES. Early Imperial. Large Bergen, or American. Early Dwarf Dutch. Late Flat German. > Early York. Large Green Glazed. Early Sugarloaf. Large Late Drumhead. Karly Emperor. Red Dutch, for pickling. Early Wellington. Green Globe Savoy. Early Heart-shaped. Large Cape Savoy. Early London Market. Green Curled Savoy. Early London Battersea. Turnip-rooted, in varieties Tue early sorts of spring Cabbage may be raised in vari- ous ways. Some sow the seed between the tenth and twenty- fourth of September, pricked out and managed the same as Cauliflower plants, only that they are more hardy, and may sometimes be kept through the winter, without sashes. Some prefer sowing the seed in a cold-bed, covered by a garden frame with sashes. If this frame be placed on a warm border, and kept free from frost, and the seed of the early kinds sown the latter end of January, or early in Feb- ruary, these plants will be better than those raised in the fall; as they will not be so liable to run to seed, and they will be more hardy, and full as early as those raised in hot- beds in the spring. Or, if a heap of fresh horse manure be deposited on the ground intended for the raising of early plants before the frost sets in, the same may be removed some mild day in January or February, and temporary frames made by driving stakes in the ground, and nailing planks or slabs thereto. The ground being then dug, the seed sown, and covered up with sashes, will soon produce plants in perfection. The frames should be well protected, by placing the manure around them, and covering the tops with mats, boards, &c., as directed for hot-beds in the Calendar for February and March. CABBAGE. - 8 It is customary with gardeners about New-York to raise their plants in hot-beds. In order to do this, the beds should be prepared, as directed in a future page of this book, (see _ Index,) so as to be ready to receive the seed by the latter end of February, or early in March. Plants thus produced, as well as those raised as before directed, will be fit to trans- plant about the middle of April, and should be carefully planted, with a suitable dibble, in good ground, from sixteen inches to two feet apart, according to size and kind : these by being hoed often, will produce good Cabbages in June. If seed of the large early kinds be sown in a warm border, early in April, they will produce plants fit to transplant in May, which will make good Cabbages for summer use.* The seed of Red Cabbage may be sown toward the end of April or early in May, and that of Savoys and late Cab- bage in general, may be sown at two or three different times, between the middle and the end of May, in fresh rich ground. The most certain way of raising good strong plants in the summer season, is to sow the seed in a moderately shaded border, in shallow drills drawn three or four inches apart. ‘One ounce of seed sown in this manner, will occupy a bor- der of about four feet im width by twelve in length, and pro- duce about four thousand stout plants; whereas, if seed be sown broad-cast, as is the usual custom, two ounces of seed * As numerous species of insects attack plants of the Brassica or Cab- bage tribe, in every stage of their growth, great caution is necessary in their cultivation. For a prevention to the attacks of fleas or flies, see page 19 of the General Remarks. Perhaps the most effectual way of saving plants from grub-worms, is not to transplant any, during the month of June. Seed beds are very seldom attacked ; but if they should be, they may be protected by digging trenches around them, and throwing in lime, salt, or ashes, sufficient to prevent the ingress of the worms. If seed of the vari- ous kinds be sown at the times recommended, the early varieties will be so far advanced in growth before the grub-worms prevail, as to be out of their reach ; and by the time the late sown plants are ready to transplant, the worms will be harmless, because they turn gray toward the end of June, and by the middle of July, the time recommended for general transplanting, the danger from grub-worms is over. For the destruction of caterpillars, see General Remarks, page 20. 56 CABBAGE. may not produce so many good plants, as the one ounce on the plan recommended. The Bergen, and other large kinds, should be transplanted the second and third week in July, in rows thirty inches asunder, and the plants about two feet apart m the rows: the Savoys and smaller sorts may be planted about the same time, but from four to six inches nearer every way. Cabbage succeeds best in a fresh rich soil, and the ground should be deeply hoed or ploughed, at least three times, during their growth. The Brassica Rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces its bulb, or protuberance, on the stems above ground, immediately under the leaves. It is eatable when young, or about the size of a garden Turnip. The seed may be sown in April or May, and the plants afterward treated the same as Cabbage, only that in earthing up the plants you must be ‘careful not to cover the globular part. They are much more hardy than Turnips. In England the bulbs often grow to upward of twenty imches in cireum- ference, and weigh from ten to twelve pounds. They are cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for table use ; in either case they treat them as they do Cabbage, or sow them like Turnips, and afterward hoe them out to proper distances. The Brassica Napus, or Turnip-rooted eae) has an oblong thick root in the form of a winter Radish; it is ex- tremely hardy, and will survive very hard frosts; the seed should be sown in rich ground, and treated in every respect as Turnips, observing to thin the plants with a hoe to the dis- tance of sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much larger and better when treated in this way, than if trans- planted. The Brassica Napus, variety esculenta, is sometimes culti- vated as a salad herb. It is held in great esteem by the French as a culinary vegetable, and is called the Navet, or COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. ot French Turnip. In France, as well as in Germany, few great dinners are served up without it, in some shape or other. ——$—_——— COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. CuHovu vert. Brassica oleracea. Turs is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when young; it so nearly resembles the early kinds of Cabbage, that it is seldom cultivated. The English frequently sow the seed of early heading kinds of Cabbage as a substitute, which being done at different seasons, enables them to procure a supply of fresh greens from their gardens every day in the year. This is not attainable here, on account of the extremes of heat and cold; but Collards would prove very valuable and acceptable, in the event of an unfavourable season for fall Cabbage. If the seed of Early York, Early Dutch, or other early kinds of Cabbage, be sown in June, July, and August, and tansplanted as they become fit, into good ground, from fif- teen to eighteen inches apart, the first planting would make good heads for fall use; and the plants of late sowings, if transplanted in September and October, in a warm border, would produce tender, sweet-eating greens for use in the early part of winter; the latter plantings may be placed ten or twelve inches from plant to plant. These could be easily sheltered on the approach of severe weather, without being taken up. ‘The cultivation of Collards is well adapted to our Southern States, as there they need no protection in winter. 58 CARROT. CARDOONS. Carpon. Cynara cardunculus. Tur Cardoon Artichoke, a native of Candia, is much cul- tivated in Europe for culinary purposes, such as for salads, soups, stews, &c. , The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp, are the eat- able parts, after being blanched. They are in perfection in autumn and winter. The seed may be sown in a bed of rich earth in the month of April; and one ounce will produce about six hundred plants: when the plants are up strong, they should be thin- ned so as to leave them four or five inches apart, to prevent them from becoming weak. They may be transplanted in June, at the distance of four feet from each other every way ; observe, before planting, to dress their tops and roots the same as Celery. As they advance in growth, they are to be earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves close together; this may be done with bass or matting, as practised with En- dive; they are afterward to be earthed up gradually from time to time, until whitened to a sufficient height. As win- ter approaches, Cardoons must be taken up and laid away like Celery, or they may be preserved with sand in a cellar. CARROT. Carotte. Daucus carota. VARIETIES. Early Orange. Long Lemon-coloured. Long Orange. Blood Red. Altringham. Long White. Tue Carrot is a native of Britain, and grows by the road- side in many parts. As a culinary vegetable, it is much used in soups and stews, and forms a dish with boiled beef, &c. The coarse sorts are cultivated as fodder for cows, sheep, oxen, and horses, and are considered profitable, as CARROT. _ 59 they frequently yield upward of four hundred bushels to an acre, when cultivated on the field system. Tor the garden, the Early Orange should be cultivated for spring and summer use ; but the Long Orange is more suit- able for main crops, on account of its bright orange colour, as well as for its great size and length. Carrots grow to great perfection in a rich loamy soil, and may be raised m drills drawn about one inch deep, and twelve inches asunder. A small bed may be planted at the latter end of March for an early crop, and from that time to the end of May for suc- cessive crops; but the principal crop should not be sown too soon, as the early plantings are apt to produce seed-stalks, and, consequently, stringy and useless roots. The most suitable ground for late Carrots, is that which has been well manured for previous crops, and requires no fresh manure. If the seed be sown in June, and the plants thinned out to the distance of five or six inches from each other when young, and kept hoed, they will yield an abun- dance of fine roots for winter and spring use, by being taken up in autumn, and. preserved either in sand in a cellar, or covered up in pits in a garden, as directed in the Calendar for November. Although Carrot seed is naturally small and light, it seldom fails to vegetate in favourable seasons ; it, therefore, need not be sown too thick in ground not apt to produce weeds. If a root could be insured to grow unmolested in every instance where a seed may be deposited, two pounds would be more than sufficient for an acre of land; but gardeners generally use four or five pounds to the acre, in order that the rows may be more easily traced in the event of a luxuriant growth of weeds. To avoid risking an unequal crop in small gar- dens, half an ounce of seed should be allotted for every pole, perch, or rod, or twenty ounces for a rood of land. On light ground, the use of aroller would be beneficial in dry weather, excess of which is detrimental to the germination of Carrot, as well as of all other light seed. 60 CRLERY. CELERY. CEeLER1. Apim graveolens. VARIETIES. White Solid. { New White Lion’s Paw. Red-coloured Solid. |. North’s Red Giant. Celertac, or Turnip-rooted. Tuis vegetable, so much esteemed as a salad, is known in its wild state by the name of Smallage ; and is found in great abundance by the sides of ditches, and near the seacoast of Britain. The effects of cultivation are here strikingly exhi- bited, in producing from a rank, coarse weed, the mild and sweet stalks of the Celery. This circumstance should stimu- late the young gardener to aim at improvement in the culti- vation of plants in general. It is customary with some gardeners to raise their early plants in hot-beds ; but as plants thus raised are apt to pro- duce seed-stalks, it is much safer to cultivate them in cold- beds, prepared as directed for the raising of early Cabbage plants. The seed for a general crop may be sown the last week in March, or early in April, in rich, mellow ground, and in a situation where the plants can be protected from the parching heat of a summer sun (a border against a north aspect is the most suitable). Some sow the seed broad-cast, but the plants will be much stouter if raised in drills. The drills may be half an inch deep, and six inches apart, so that a small hoe can be worked between the rows; and if pro- perly attended to, every ounce of seed so sown will produce ten thousand strong plants or more. The early sown plants should be pricked out in a nursery bed of cool rich earth, as soon as they are two or three inches high, there to remain about a month, after which they will be fit to transplant into the trenches. Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an open exposure ; mark out the trenches by line, ten or twelve inches wide, and allow the space of three feet between them, which CELERY. 61 will be sufficient for the early plantations. Dig eacn trench a moderate spade deep, laying the dug-out earth equally on each side, between the trenches; put three inches deep of very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the sides, and dig the dung and parings with an inch or two of the loose mould at the bottom, incorporating all well together, and put in the plants.* Previous to planting, trim the plants, by cutting off the long straggling leaves, and also the ends of the roots. Let them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the mid- dle of each trench, five or six inches between plant and plant ; as soon as they are planted, give them a plentiful watering, and let them be shaded until they strike root and begin to grow. The main crops may be planted in the same way, but in trenches four feet distant from each other, and an inch or two farther from plant to plant ; or in beds made in the fol- lowing manner, which, for the ease of preserving the plants in winter, will be found extremely convenient, besides a greater quantity can be raised on a given piece of ground. Lay out the ground into beds four feet wide, with alleys between, three feet ; dig the beds a spade deep, throwing the earth on the alleys: when done, lay four or five inches of good, well-rotted dung all over the bottom of the beds, dig and incorporate it with the loose earth, and cover the whole with an inch or two of earth from the alleys; plant four rows * Some gardeners are accustomed to cultivate Celery on the level ground ; others, after making their trenches in the usual way, go to the expense of carting peculiar soil from a distance, with which they replenish their trenches until nearly full. Those who have pursued the latter plan, say that they are rewarded for their trouble by gathering roots of superior size and quality ; but it is doubtful whether it would prove profitable to prac- tice this plan on an extensive scale. It may, however, be judicious in those gardeners, whose subsoil, or under stratum, is inferior, or ill-adapted for the growth of Celery, to cultivate it in shallow drills, or furrows worked out with a plough, by which means they may secure good soil to plant in, and also to earth up with. In such cases the rows must be from four to five feet apart, and frequent ploughing between them would promote the growth of the plants. 6 62 CELERY. in each bed at equal distances, and from six to eight inches apart in the rows; after which, give them a plentiful water- ing, and shade them. The plants must be hoed occasionally, until grown of suf- ficient size for earthing, which is done with the assistance of boards, by laying them along the rows, to support the leaves while you are putting in the earth from the alleys, and re- moving them as you progress in the business. The earthing should never be done when the plants are wet, as this is apt to make the Celery rusty, but should be performed gradually in fine weather as the plants progress in growth, repeating the earthing every two weeks ; at which time care should be taken to gather up all the leaves neatly, and not to bury the hearts of the plants. When they are grown two feet high, and well blanched, they are fit for the table. As Celery will grow three or four feet high in one season, it will be necessary to delay the planting of that which is in- tended for winter use until the latter end of July, but the trenches should always be got ready soon enough to avoid a serious drought, which often delays the planting till too late in the season. The blanching of Celery for winter use may be delayed until October. By market gardeners who raise Celery on a large scale, the trenches may be worked out with a plough, and finished with a spade or hoe. The ground may also be ploughed between each row of Celery previous to earthing it up; this will save much labour. The Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted, may be planted either on level ground or in shallow drills ; the root of it swells like a Turnip, and may be preserved in sand through the winter. The French and Germans cut it in slices, and soak it a few hours in vinegar; by such simple preparation, it becomes mellow as a pineapple, and affords a delicious and very nour- ishing repast. CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. 63 CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. Macue ov poucetrts. Valeriana locusta. VARIETY.— Olitoria. Tuts plant grows spontaneously in the corn-fields of Eng- land, hence it is called Corn Salad; and from its being suf- ficiently hardy to stand the winter, and affording an early pasturage, it has acquired the appellation of Lamb’s Lettuce. It is cultivated as a salad for winter and early spring use. The seed may be sown in rich, clean ground, the latter end of August or early in September. Some gardeners sow the seed in beds four or five feet wide, with paths between each bed, just sufficient to admit of room for hand-weeding ; but it will vegetate more freely if sown in drills half an inch deep, provided it be carefully covered. The drills may be about six inches apart, or just sufficient to admit a small hoe to work between the rows; for if the plants are not cleared of all weeds while Foung, they will be more plague than profit. Fetticus must be covered up with straw at the approach of severe weather, to preserve it in good condition for use in the early part of the ensuing spring, as that is the season which most amply remunerates the cultivator. The seed of Fetticus is small and light, but it will admit of being sown thick, say at the rate of from four to six pounds to an acre of land. 64 CRESS. CRESS. Cresson. Lapidium sativum. VARIETIES. Curled, or Peppergrass. | Broad-leaved Garden. Cress is a small salad herb, and is generally used with Lettuce, White Mustard, Rape, Chervil, &c. It may be sown very thick in little drills, as should salad seed in gene- ral, and cut before it comes into rough leaf. A small quan- tity in the salad season, which is spring and autumn, may be sown every week in rich ground, free from weeds. CRESS, (Water.) CRESSON DE FONTAINE. Sisymbriwm nasturtium. Tue Water Cress is a creeping, amphibious perennial, and is grown very extensively for the London Markets. Loudon says, in his Encyclopedia of Gardening, that “ The most suitable description of water is a clear stream, not more than an inch and a half deep, running over sand or gravel; the least favourable, deep, still water, or a muddy bottom. It is highly advantageous to make the plantations in newly-risen spring water, as the plants do not only thrive better in it, but, in consequence of its being rarely frozen, they generally con- tinue in vegetation, and in a good state for gathering, through the whole winter season. The plants are disposed in rows parallel with the course of the stream, about eighteen inches apart. When these plants begin to grow in water one inch’ and a half deep, they soon check the current so as to raise the water to the height of three inches above the plants, which is considered the most favourable circumstance in which they can be placed. It is absolutely necessary to have a constant current, as where there is any obstruction to the stream, the plants cease to thrive. After they have been cut about three times, they begin to stock, and then the oftener they are cut the better. CUCUMBER. — 65 CUCUMBER. Concompre. Cucumis sativus, elé. VARIETIES, Early Frame. Long Green. Early Green Cluster. Extra Long Green. Early Green Table. Long White Turkey. Long Prickly. White Spined. Short Prickly. West India, or Gherkin. Tue Cucumis sativus, or common Cucumber, is a native of the East Indies, and of nearly as great antiquity as the vine. It was introduced into England in 1573, and is extensively cultivated in forcing frames, and in the open air. In March, they are sold in the London Markets for a guinea a dozen; and in August and September for one penny per dozen. As Cucumbers are much used in New-York, it should be an object with gardeners to have them in the market early ; directions for raising them out of the ordinary season, are’ therefore given in a future page, under the head Forcing; Vegetables; to which the reader is referred. Cucumbers may be raised in the open ground by planting seed the first week of May, in hills four feet apart; or if the ground be light, basins formed an inch below the level of the surface would be beneficial,* Previous to planting, the ground should be prepared by incorporating a shovelful of rotten dung with the earth in each hill, after which four or five seed may be planted half an inch deep. One ounce of good seed is suf- ficient for two hundred hills and upward. Cucumbers are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly, which sometimes devours young plants; these and other msects may be killed by sowing tobacco dust, soot, powdered char- * The term hill is frequently made use of by gardeners and farmers, to designate a situation allotted for a given number of seed, whereas, such seed are more frequently deposited below the level of the surface than above it; yet, as the plants progress in growth, hills are frequently formed around them, which makes the term applicable, or rather reconciles the apparent contradiction. 6* 66 EGG-PLANT. coal, and the like, round about the vines when they first come up, or by applying the liquid recommended in page 19 of the General Remarks. After this is done, the plants may be thinned to two or three in a hill, and the ground carefully hoed, drawing a little earth round them at the same time. The vines should be kept free from weeds, and if the weather proves dry, a gentle watering now and then, given in the evening, will be of considerable service. Picklers may be raised by planting the seed at any time in July. When the vines begin to bear, they should be looked over, and the fruit gathered as soon as it becomes fit, as the plant will cease to bear much if the fruit be permitted to get yellow. CHIVES, OR CIVES. Civerte. Allium schenoprasum. Tuis is a small species of Onion, and grows in large tufts ; it is propagated by offsets from the roots, and may be planted either in spring or autumn, in rows ten or twelve inches apart, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in the rows ; they wi!l soon take root, and increase very fast, form- ing large bunches of bulbs. They make handsome edging for beds or borders. EGG-PLANT. MELONGENE AU AUBERGINE. Solanum melongena. VARIETIES, Purple, for cooking. | White, for ornament. Tue seed of the Purple Egg-plant may be sown in a hot- bed about the first of March; and the sashes must be kept down close until the plants come up, after which a little air EGG-PLANT. 67 may be given in the heat of the day.* Toward the middle of May, if the weather be warm and settled, the piants should be set out from twenty-four to thirty inches apart, im a rich, warm piece of ground ; and if kept clean, and a little earth be drawn up to their stems when about a foot high, they will produce plenty of fruit. Plants of the white variety may be riased in the same man- ner, and transplanted into pots in May; or if some of the seed be sown ina warm situation the first week in May, these may come to perfection in the course of the summer. This variety, though generally cultivated for ornament, is good when cooked. As Egg plants will not grow in the open ground until set- tled warm weather, and are apt to perish from being trans- planted too early, the gardener should be provided with small pots, in order that the plants may be transplanted therem early in May, and placed in a frame, there to remain until the first week in June, at which time, if they are turned out and planted, with the balls of earth entire, they will soon take’ root and grow freely. Select the fruit when at maturity; cut it into slices, and parboil it in a stewpan ; when softened, drain off the water ; it may then be fried in batter made with wheaten flour and an egg, or in fresh butter with bread grated fine and sea- soned before it is put in the pan, with pepper, salt, thyme, and such other herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use Marjoram, Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, &c. * Hee-plant seed will not vegetate freely without substantial heat ; but-with proper management, upward of four thousand plants may be raised from an ounce of seed. If these plants get the least chilled in the earlier stages of growth, they seldom recever ; it is, therefore, important that the frame allotted for them be placed over a weil-regulated hot-bed, and partitioned off, so that the sash can be kept down over the plants in cool weather. Some gardeners raise Exg-plants in the same frame with: Cabbage, and such other half-hardy plants-as require air every mild day ; by such man- agement, one or the other must suffer for want of suitable aliment, heat heing the principal food of tender plants, and air that of’ the more hardy: species. 68 ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. CuIcoREE DES yaRDINS. Cichorium endiva, etc. VARIETIES, Green Curled. Golden Yellow. White Curled. Broad-leaved, or Scarolle. Tue Cichorium endiva is a native of China and Japan, and is much used in salads and stews, and as a garnish for the table. The proper kind of seed for early sowing is the Green Curled. A small quantity of this may be sown at different times in April and May, by those who would have it early. These crops will be very apt to run to seed ; for this reason, it will be best to delay the sowing of seed for general crops until June, or July. If a small quantity of each esteemed variety be sown two or three times in these months, they will produce a plentiful supply for use in Autumn and the early part of Winter. One ounce of good Endive seed will produce about five thousand plants. When the plants are three or four inches high, they should be transplanted into good ground, at the distance of a foot from each other, and immediately watered; or if they are set out in cloudy or wet weather, it will save this trouble. The plants will requrie to be hoed and attended to in the same manner as Lettuce, until grown to a moderate size, when they must be blanched, Select the large and full-hearted plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a little above the middle, not too tight, previously gathering up the leaves regularly in the hand. This must be done when the leaves are very dry, otherwise the plants will rot. The Cichoraum intybus grows spontaneuosly in many parts of Europe and America. In France it is much cultivated; the tops of the plants are considered profitable for cattle, and the roots are taken up in Autumn, and dried. The aromatic and volatile qualities of coffee are, by the combination of this root, ren- dered more mellow and full upon the palate, and its fragrance greatly increased, producing an agreeable tonic, and most exhilarating beverage. HORSE-RADISH. 69 Sow the seed in April in drills half an inch deep, and about eighteen inches apart; thin out the plants to six or eight inches inthe row. The plant produces beautiful blue flowers, and is worthy of a place in the flower garden. The roots when dried, roasted as coffee, and ground, may be mixed in the proportion of two ounces of the powder to a pound of coffee. HORSE-RADISH. Rarort. Cochlearia armoracia. Tus plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, either cut from the top about two inches long, or by offsets, or otherwise useless parts, from the sides of the main root, re- taining the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as possible. These should be planted as early in the spring as practicable, in rows two feet apart,-and six or eight inches from each other in the rows. Select for the bed a good depth of soil, and such as will retain moisture, manure it with well-rotted dung, plough or dig it deep, and with a drilling machine or other convenient implement, draw drills a foot apart ; then plant with a dibble, cuttings as above described, in every alternate drill, from two to three inches deep. The intermediate drills may be planted with Beet or Carrot seed, or that of any other root, but Tur- nip Beets are the most suitable to cultivate between the rows, as they will grow quick, and can be pulled out without dis- turbing the Horse-radish. The Beets must of course be thinned cut while young, and kept cultivated by hoeing between the rows, which will alse benefit the Horse-radish. After the Beets are pulled, hoe the ground again, and keep it clear of weeds, by which method the bed may be cleared every year. Some cultivate Horse-radish in a permanent bed, in which case, if, in taking up the roots, some offsets be left in the ground, they will produce a successive supply for future years. 70 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, INDIAN CORN. Mais. Zea mayz. VARIETIES. Early Dutton. : Cobbet’s Early Normandy, Early Tuscarora. Southern Horsetooth. Early Canadian. Early Golden Sioux. Sweet, or Sugar. Mottled and Curious Pearl. Tue different varieties of early Corn intended for boiling when young, or others as curiosities, may be planted in the garden the last week in April, or early in May, in hills four feet apart, or in drills. If some of each esteemed variety be planted in separate beds at the same time, they will come im for the table one after the other in regular succession. After this, if any particular variety be preferred, it may be planted at different times in the month of May and June. If the ground be poor, mix a shovelful of old manure with the earth in each hill before the seed are planted, and after the plants are up strong, scatter a tea-cup full of wood ashes around each hill. This, with attentive hoeing and hilling, will cause it to produce ears early. Deep digging or plough- ing between the hills is very beneficial when the corn is about eighteen inches high. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. Pomme pr Terre. Helianthus tuberosom. Tus plant is a native of America. The tubers of the root, which are generally abundant, were, before Potatoes became improved by cultivation, in great esteem, and are yet considered a fine flavoured and nutritious food, when boiled and mashed with butter. They may be easily propa- gated by cutting the roots into sets, with two eyes in each, and planting them in the same manner as Potatoes, in March and April. To have them in perfection, they should be hoed LEEK. vi: frequently, and the ground kept loose around them. In dig- ging them for use, care should be taken to gather them out clean, as the least particle left will grow the year following, and encumber the ground, without producing a crop worth standing. LEEK. Porrreau. Allium porrum. VARIETIES. Scotch, or Flag. | Large London. Tuts is a wholesome and useful herb, and is so hardy as to endure the extremes of heat and cold without injury. The seed may be sown in March, or early in April, in a bed of rich earth, in drills about an inch deep, and a sufficient dis- tance apart to admit of a small hoe being worked between the rows, allowing one ounce of seed for every three thou- sand plants that may be required. If the ground be kept loose and clean around the plants, they will be fit to transplant in June, or early in July, and should be set out in good ground, in rows twelve inches asunder, and the plants five or six inches apart in the rows. They will grow well in a warm border, which at this season is useless for many kinds of vegetables. After the plants have taken root, they should be frequently hoed, and kept free from weeds. Those who wish to have Leeks blanched, may plant them in trenches three or four inches deep, and as the plants in- crease in growth, the earth should be drawn by a hoe into the trenches. 72 LETTUCE LETTUCE Larrur. Lactuca sativa crispa. VARIETIES. Large Green Head. ek Early Silesia. Dutch, or Cabbage. © Imperial, or Sugar Loaf. Tennis Ball, or Rose. \ & 2 Pale Green, or Butter. Madeira, or Passion. ao Grand Admiral. Large Green Curled. 5 Large Summer Silesia. Loco Foco. a Paris Loaf Coss. Ir would be easy to furnish a more extensive catalogue of Lettuce, as the varieties are numerous ; but as this is one of those kinds of vegetables that can only be raised in perfec- tion during mild and temperate weather, it is needless for the gardener to plant any in the open ground, but such as have been tested, and found to stand a tolerable degree of warm weather, which generally prevails in May and June, and consequently cuts short the salad season. Those who nave been accustomed to raise head Lettuce in any quantity, know the trouble of preparing the ground and planting, and the loss they would sustain if several thousand plants should run to seed just as they appeared to be perfecting for market. As this is often the case, even with the very best attention, I would caution gardeners to test such plants as they are not acquianted with, before they set out any quantity with a view to their heading.* The six varieties inserted in the first column of our cata- * It may be necessary here to remind the gardener, that moistuRE is the most essential nutriment of Lettuce, and that the very best varieties may run to seed without forming heads, in the event of extreme warm weather. Those who put off the sowing of seed until May and June, instead of sowing it in March and April, as directed, may procure head Lettuce from some of their strongest plants, by transplanting them into rich ground as soon as they are an inch or two in height, and the remainder, if left thin in the beds, may produce small heads, by stirring the earth around them with a small hoe, or weeding hook; these are as good for family use as larger heads, and those persons who are fond of Lettuce may raise such through- out the summer; but market gardeners seldom attempt it, unless they have a tract of moist, loamy soil, peculiarly adapted to the growth of head Lettuce, in any thing like a propitious season. LETTUCE. 13 logue have been known to stand our winters, and may be sown from the first to the middle of September, in rich ground, free from weeds; they answer very well when sown with Spinach, and should be covered with straw at the ap- proach of severe weather. These plants, if transplanted into warm borders, or in the open ground, as early in March as the weather will permit, will produce fine heads early in the month of May. The best of the tender kinds of Lettuce should be sown in moderate hot-beds early in March, and if transplanted into good ground by the middle of April, will produce their heads before the approach of warm weather. Such kinds as are known to produce heads in hot weather, and also such as are intended to be cut as a small salad while young, may be sown in warm borders in March and April; but those designed for heading should be transplanted as soon as they are an inch or two in height, and kept in a growing state by frequent hoeing, or they may run up to seed as the season advances. If it be an object with the gardener to have good strong Lettuce plants for transplanting, the seed should be sown very thin. One ounce of good seed is sufficient for a border of six feet in width by eighteen feet in length, and will pro- duce from ten to twelve thousand plants. All kinds of Lettuce intended for heading should be plant- ed in good ground, twelve inches distant from each other every way; the plants should be carefully hoed every other week during their growth; the first hoeig should be done in about two weeks after they are transplanted. The Coss Lettuce requires to be blanched; this is done by gathering up the leaves of the plants and tying bass round them, when grown to perfection. If Head Lettuce be required at other seasons than the spring, it may be obtained in autumn by sowing seed in Au- gust, or in the winter by means of garden frames and glazed sashes. [See ariicle on Forcing Vegetables | ii TA MELON. MELON. Meton. Cucumis melo. VARIETIES. Green-fleshed Citron. Large Yellow Canteleupe. Murray’s Pineapple. Pomegranate, or Musk Scented. Green-fleshed Persian. Skillman’s Fine Netted. Green-fleshed Nutmeg. Snake, (curious.) Tue Melon is an exotic plant, growing wild in Asia. It is cultivated in all the warm countries of Europe, and also in Africa and America, where its salubrious and cooling fruit is generally esteemed. For the varieties of the Musk or Canteleupe Melons, pre- pare a piece of rich ground early in May; manure it and give it a good digging; then mark it out into squares of six feet every way; at the angle of each square, dig a hole twelve inches deep and eighteen over, into which put about six inches deep of old rotten dung ; throw thereon about four inches of earth, and mix the dung and earth well with the spade ; after which draw more earth over the mixture, so as to form a circular hill about a foot broad at top. (lor a de- finition of the term “hill,” see article Cucumber.) When your hills are all prepared, plant in each, toward the centre, six or eight grains of seed, distant two inches from each other, and cover them about half an inch deep. One ounce of good Melon seed will plant about one hundred and twenty hills. When the plants are in a state of forwardness, producing their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in each hill; draw earth from time to time round the hills, and about the roots of the plants. As soon as the plants have spread into branches, stop them by pinching off the top of the first runner bud; this will strengthen the plants, and pro- mote their perfecting the fruit early; after which keep the ground perfectly free from weeds by frequent hoeing. There are many varieties of the Melon, highly esteemed WATER MELON. el in Europe, which do not succeed in this country; the gar- dener should, therefore, plant only such as have been tested and found to produce good fruit here, or our superior old sorts may become degenerate. After a judicious selection is made, if caution be not used to plant the different sorts remote from each other, and from Cucumbers, Squashes, and Gourds, degeneracy will infallibly be the consequence. To prevent the ravages of flies, &c., see General Remarks, pages 19 and 20. WATER MELON. Meton p’Eau. Cucurbita citrullus. VARIETIES. New Jersey. Goodwin’s Imperial. Carolina. Citron, for preserves. Tur Water Melon, though by some considered a species of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic plants. They afford a very refreshing article of luxury in our warm sum- mers. Dr. Pallas, in the account of his journey to the southern provinces of Russia, in 1793 and ’94, speaking of a colony of Moravians in Sarepta, or Sapa, on the River Volga, says, ‘“‘ The ingenious inhabitants of this town brew a kind of beer from their very abundant and cheap Water Melons, with the addition of Hops; they also prepare a conserve or marmalade from this fruit, which is a good substitute for syrup or treacle.” Tn order to have Water Melons in perfection, you must fix upon a piece of very rich light soil; prepare, plant and manage it in every respect as is directed for Musk Melon, only, let the hills be seven or eight feet distant every way. Qne ounce of seed will plant from forty to fifty hills. 76 NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION, MUSTARD. Movurarpe. Sinapis. VARIETIES. White. | Black. Tur Alba, or White Mustard, grows spontaneously in the fields of England; it is also cultivated as a small salad, as well as for seed. The seed yields from every hundred pounds, from thirty-three to thirty-six pounds of sweet mild oil. White Mustard Seed is much used as a medicine, and per- sons subject to disordered stomachs often derive great benefit by taking a spoonful of the dry seed, two or three times a day Some use it in pickles, to which it imparts an agreeable fla- vour, and renders Cucumbers in particular more salutary. The Nigra or Common Mustard, is also a native of England. The condiment called Mustard, and in daily use at our table is prepared from the seed of this species. The seed, of each variety, may be sown in clean rich ground in April and May; and for a fall salad in es in shallow drills. NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION. Capucine. Tropeolum. Tus is an annual plant, a native of Peru, and is highly deserving of cultivation for the sake of its brilliant orange and crimson coloured flower, as well as for the berries, which, if gathered while green and pickled in vinegar, make a good substiute for capers, and are used in melted butter, with boiled mutton, &c. The seed should be sown in April, or early in May, in drills about an inch deep, near fences or pales; or trellises should be constructed, on which they can climb and have support, for they will always be more productive in this way than when suffered to trail on the ground. ONION: _ 77 OKRA. Gompo. Hibiscus esculentus. THE green capsules of this plant are used in soups, stews, &c., to which they impart a rich flavour, and are considered nutritious. Its ripe seed, if burned and ground like coffee, can scarcely be distinguished therefrom. The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the first or second week in May, if settled warm weather, but not otherwise, as it is avery tender vegetable. Draw drills about an inch deep, and three or four feet asunder, into which drop the seed at the distance of six or eight inches from each other, or rather drop two or three in each place, lest the one should not grow and cover them nearly an inch deep. As the plants advance in growth, thin them out, earth them up two or three times, and they will produce abundantly. ONION. Orenon. Allium cepa, ete. ctc. VARIETIES. New England White. Yellow Dutch. Large Red. Strasburgh, or Flanders. Yellow, or Silver Skinned. Madeira. Or the severa! varieties of Onions, the Yellow or Silver Skinned, and Large Red, are the best for a general crop. The bulbs are handsome, of firm growth, and keep well through the winter. The New England White are handsome for the table, and very suitable for pickling, as well as to pull while young, and generally prove a very profitable crop. Previous to sowing Onion seed for a general crop, the ground should be well prepared by digging in some of the oldest and strongest manure that can be got. The earlier this be done in the spring, the better, and the planting should 78 ONION. not be delayed longer than the middle of April. The seed may be sown moderately thick, in drills one inch deep and twelve inches apart.* Those who cultivate Onions for the sake of their bulbs, may use at the rate of four or five pounds of seed per acre. As market gardeners, in the vicinity of large cities, find it most profitable to pull a great proportion of their Onions while young, they generally require at the rate of from eight to ten pounds of seed to an acre of land. When the plants are up strong, they should be hoed. Those beds that are to stand for ripening, should be thinned out while young, to the distance of two or three inches from each other. If a few should be required for use after this, those can be taken which incline more to tops than roots; and if the beds be frequently looked over, and the small and stalky plants taken away where they stand thickest, the remaining bulbs will grow to a larger size. The plants should be hoed at least three times in the early part of their growth; but if the season prove damp, and weeds vegetate luxuriantly, they must be removed by the hand, because after the Onions have begun to bulb, it would injure them to stir them with a hoe. When the greenness is gone out of the tops of Onions, it is time to take them up; for from this time the fibrous roots decay. After they are pulled, they should be laid out to dry, and when dry, removed to a place of shelter. The small Onions may be planted in the following spring. Even an Onion which is partly rotten will produce good bulbs, if the seed stems be taken off as soon as they appear. * Onion seed may be sown at any time from March to September, but those only can be depended upon for ripening, which are sown in the first and second spring months. It is a singular fact, that Onions will not ripen later than August or the early part of September, however warm the weather may be; they can, however, be preserved in the place where they grow, by spreading some short dung over them in autumn, just sufficient to prevent their purging out of the ground in winter. Onions thus pre- served, often prove more profitable to market gardeners in the spring, than crops which ripen ; because ripe Onions are then scarce, and green ones prove a good substitute for Shallots, Welsh Onions, Leeks, &c. PARSLEY. | 79 The Allium fistulosum, or Welsh Onion, is cultivated for spring salad; it forms no bulbs, but is very hardy. If the seed be sown early in September in rich ground, although the tops may die down in the winter, yet the roots will con- tinue sound, and put up new leaves early in the spring. The Allium cepa, or common White and Red Onions, are most gencrally cultivated by market gardeners as a substitute for the Allium fistulosum; they sow the seed in the spring and autumn months, the product of which is pulled and sent to the market while young, and generally meets with a ready sale. The Allium proliferum, or Tree Onion, is propagated by planting the bulbs in spring or autumn, either the root bulbs, or those produced on the top of the stalks; the latter, if planted in the spring, will produce fine Onions. These may be planted in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots. The Potato Onion, Allium tuberosum, does not produce seed as other Onions, but it increases by the root. One sin- gle Onion, slightly covered, will produce six or seven in a clump, partly under ground. The bulbs are generally planted in the spring, from twelve to eighteen inches apart, but they will yield better when planted in autumn, as they will survive the winter if slightly covered with dung, litter, or leaves of trees, &c. PARSLEY. Prrsit. Apium petroselinum. VARIETIES. Dwarf Curled. Single, or Common. Extra Curled. Large Rooted Hamburg. Parstey is a hardy biennial plant, and grows wild in moist climates, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. The leaves of the Common Parsley are used as a pot herb, and 80 PARSLEY. those of the Extra Curled kinds make a fine garnish. The Large Rooted are generally cooked for the table in autumn and winter, like Parsnips. As Parsley seed, sown late in the season, is apt to lay in the ground some time before it vegetates, and often fails in dry weather, the general crop should be sown in a cool situation by the early part of April, in drills an inch deep, and one foot asunder, allowing at the rate of about six or seven pounds of seed to the acre, or two ounces for every three perches of land.* After the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequent hoeing. The Large Rooted Parsley should be thinned out while young, and managed the same as Carrots and Parsnips. In order to have Parsley green through the winter, the old leaves should be picked off in September. If some of the roots be taken up early in November, and laid in a frame, or light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long time ; the remainder may be covered up with straw in the place where it grows. If Parsley seed be sown in frames in spring or summer, it may be preserved for winter use without the trouble of removing it. * It frequently happens that Parsley seed will remain in the ground three or four weeks, without showing any signs of vegetation, and in the event of extreme dry weather, is apt to decay for want of its most essen- tial aliment—moisturE. A few grains of Long Radish seed, sown about an inch apart in each drill, are well adapted to promote the growth of Parsley; because Radish seed being quick in germinating, will open the pores of the earth; and the plants, as they progress in growth, will create a shade, sufficient to protect the Parsley from the full rays of the sun. PARSNIP. Sl PARSNIP. Panars. Pastinaca sativa. VARIETIES. Long Guernsey Cup. | Large Dutch, or Common. Tus is a hardy biennial plant, common in calcareous soils; it has long been an inmate of the garden, and forms a vegetable dish in the winter, with salt meat, salted fish, &c. Parsnip seed may be planted from the middle of March till the middle of May, in drills one inch deep and fourteen inches apart; and as this vegetable requires a long season to grow in, the sooner the seed is planted the better. Pars- nips grow best in a deep soil, which has been well manured the preceding fall. Sow the seed thick along the drills, at the rate of five or six pounds per acre, and rake them in evenly.* When the plants are two or three inches high, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. They should be kept free from weeds, by regular hoeing through the summer, and in autumn they will be fit for use ; but they improve in flavour after having been frozen, and will endure the severity of a hard winter. See Calendar for November. Parsnips require from thirty to forty minutes boiling, ac- cording to their size and age. Some boil them in water seasoned with salt, until tender; but they are better when boiled with salt pork, and afterward mashed and fried in butter. * The Parsnip, although when in full growth it will endure the extremes of heat and cold, requires peculiar management to promote and preserve germination in an early stage of culture. In order to give the seed a fair chance, it should be planted in ground susceptible of moisture, and not apt to encrust when dry. The seed should be dropped thick alonz the drills, and well covered, as single or solitary plants are apt to perish, from not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and in the event of drought such plants die off prematurely. If cultivated in light ground, it should be rolled or pressed immediately after depositing the seed therein, but this should not be done while the earth is wet. A few grains of Long Radish seed, sown in each drill as directed for Parsley, will also prove beneficial to Parsnips. $2 PEPPER. PEPPER. Porvre ov piment. Capsicum. VARIETIES. Grossum, or Bell Pepper. : Long Red, or Bird’s Bill. Tomato-shaped, or Squash. Cherry, or West Indian. Sweet Spanish; used as a salad, has a very delicate taste. Tus family of plants are natives of the East and West Indies ; some of their capsules, or pods, are yellow, and others red, when at maturity; they are much used for pick- ling, and should be gathered for that purpose before they are fuily ripe. The seed of the different kinds of Capsicwms may be sown in a hot-bed in March, or on a warm border, early in May. One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand plants. When the plants arrive at the height of from one to two inches, they should be transplanted into good rich ground, from eighteen inches to two feet distant from each other. Those who do not want Peppers early in the season, may sow seed in the open ground in May, in drills two feet asun- der, and half an inch deep. When the plants are grown an inch or two high, thin them to the distance of fifteen or eighteen inches in the rows. The ground should be after- ward hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds by repeated hoeings. The Capsicum Grossum, or Bell Pepper, is perennial, and will keep in perpetual bearing in warm climates. In Eng- land this species is considered superior to all others, on ac- count of its skin being thick, and also pulpy and tender ; the plants are therefore frequently preserved in hot-houses dur- ing the winter and spring, and kept in the open air in settled warm weather. PEA. 83 PHA. Ports. Piswn sativum. VARIETIES. - Early Cedo Nulli, or Race Horse, 3 ft| Groom’s Dwarf Blue Prolific, 4 ft. Early Frame, 2 to 3 feet. Dwarf Blue, Prussian, 2 to 3 feet. Early Warwick, 3 feet. Dwarf Marrowfat, 3 to 4 feet. Early Washington, 3 feet. Ladies’ Finger Marrows, 4 feet. Early Charlton, 3 feet. Matchless Marrowfat, 6 feet. Double Blossom Frame, 3 feet. Knight’s Tall Marrow, 6 feet. Bishop’s Early Dwarf, 2 feet. Knight’s Dwarf Marrow, 3 feet. Dwarf Prolific, or Strawberry, 2 feet.| Woodford’s Green Prolific, 6 feet. Dwarf Spanish, or Fan, 1 to 2 feet. Large Grey Rouncival, 4 feet. Early Nimble Dick, 3 feet. Dwarf Sugar, (eatable pods,) 3 feet. Dwarf Blue Imperial, 2 to 3 feet. Tall Crooked Pod Sugar, 6 feet. Waterloo Blue, 4 feet. French Bouquet, or Sugar, 3 to 4 ft Albany Field, in varieties. THE above list and description of the most esteemed kinds of Pea are taken from the catalogue of Mr. G. C. Thorburn. If they are rightly described, they will grow to different heights, according to soil and season. This description, however, may serve as a guide for the gardener in planting. The Dwarf Pea require less distance between row and row, and shorter sticks than the tall kinds. Planting the early kinds of Pea should commence as soon in the spring as the ground can be brought into good condi- tion; all the other sorts, as well as the early, will answer for successive crops ; ‘to obtain which, a few of the most esteemed varieties should be planted at the same time every two weeks, from March until the end of May. Persons desirous of having Peas throughout the summer and autumn, may plant a few in June, July, and August. In dry weather the Peas should be soaked in soft water five or six hours before plant- ing, and if the ground be very dry, it should be watered in the drills. i Gardeners practice different modes of planting Peas. Some plant them in ridges, others in drills, some in single rows, others in double ; some use sticks for the dwarf kinds, and others not; those who study neatness should, however, 84 PEA. have them all rodded, though the most dwarfish may do without. All the different sorts of Pea may be planted in double or single rows, from four to six feet apart, according to the different heights they may be expected to grow. If two drills be made three inches deep, and about nine inches apart, and the seed dropped along each drill moderately thick, they will yield better than single rows, and will save sticks. When the plants are two or three inches high, let them be hoed, drawing, at the same time, a little earth up to their stems; when they get to double that height, let them be hoed again; at the same time, place a row of sticks in the middle of your double rows, and a few shorter and smaller ones on the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climb- ing to their main support. You must be governed as to the length of your sticks by the description of your Peas. There is great advantage in having sticks of a suitable height to the various kinds of Peas; the sticks should not only be suf- ficiently tall, but also branchy, that the plants may readily take hold; and they should be prepared fan fashion, so that the side branches may extend only along the rows. As the plants progress in growth, let them be repeatedly hoed and earthed up; this will promote a plentiful bearing. One quart of Peas will plant from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet of row, allowing the largest kinds to average one inch apart, and the smallest, two peas to the inch. If cultivated on the field system, one bushel will plant an acre of land, and produce about a hundred bushels of green Peas. To have green Peas in perfection, they should be gathered while young, and cooked immediately after they are shelled, or they will soon lose their colour and sweetness. Let the water be slightly seasoned with salt, and boiled; then put in the Peas with a small bunch of Spear Mint, and ease the cover so as to let off the steam; they require about fifteen minutes boiling, or five minutes more or less, according to POTATO. 85 the age and care bestowed. ‘Taste and try in time, so as to have them done to a nicety. The Sugar Peas have no inner tough film, or skin, to the pods, like the common sorts ; they should therefore be boiled without shelling, and served up the same as Kidney Beans. POTATO. Pomme DE TERRE. Solanum Tuberosum. Tur Potato is known to be a native of the southern parts of America, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. The varieties being very numerous, it is unnecessary for me to point out any particular kinds; some of the earliest should, however, be planted first in the spring, to produce young Potatoes in due season ; but they are not so suitable for a full crop as the late varieties. Potatoes being of such extensive utility, various expedients have been contrived with a view to find out the best method of preparing the seed. In many parts of England, (where Potatoes equal to any in the world are raised,) the farmers seldom plant them whole; they take the Potatoes as they come to hand, and in cutting them, take care to have two good eyes in each set; the small Potatoes are deprived of the sprout or nose end, as it is generally considered that a redundancy of eyes exhausts the set, and produces weak plants, which are not calculated to yield a full crop. I have frequently known from five to six hundred bushels raised from an acre with small Potatoes alone cut in this way. Some prefer planting the sets immediately after they are cut; the better way is to get them cut a week before the time of planting, and to lay them out on a barn, or garret floor, to dry. It will require from twelve to sixteen bushels of Potatoes to plant an acre of ground, according to the size and nature 86 POTATO. of the seed roots, the manner of preparing, and mode of planting the same. Potatoes may be planted from the first week in April until July, either in hills or drills; the best way for a garden is to plant them in drills four or five inches deep, and about thirty inches asunder ; the sets may be dropped six or eight inches apart; and if a small quantity of combmaker’s horn shavings or sea weed be used as a manure for the early kinds, it will expedite their growth; the ground should be hoed as soon as the plants come up, and as they progress in growth it will be proper to mould or earth them up twice. POTATO, (Sweet.) PomMeE DE TERRE Douce. Convolvulus batatus. Sweer Potatoes are grown to great perfection in the Southern States, and may be raised in the vicinity of New- York, by means of a moderate hot-bed, in which they should be planted whole, early in April, three or four inches deep, and about the same distance apart. In about a month they will throw up sprouts. When these are three inches above ground, part them off from the Potato, which, if suffered to remain, will produce more sprouts for a successive planting ; transplant them into rich light soil, in rows four feet apart, and the plants about a foot apart in the rows, or in hills four feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until the vines begin to cover the ground, after which they will grow freely. In sandy ground, it is well to put a shovelful of rotten manure to each plant. A moderate hot-bed, five feet square, put down early in the month of April, with half a peck of good sound Sweet Potatoes placed therein, wili produce a succession of sprouts in May and June, which if planted and managed as directed, will yield about fifteen bushels of good roots. PUMPKIN. 87 PUMPKIN. CITROUILLE OU Portiron. Cucurbita pepo. VARIETIES. Finest Cheese, or Family. Connecticut Field. Mammoth, or Spanish. White Bell. Tuts plant is highly deserving of cultivation, particularly in new settlements ; the large sorts are profitable for caitle, as some of the mammoth tribe have been known to weigh upward of two hundred pounds each; the other kinds are also very productive, and may be raised on any waste land, provided it will admit of digging small spots, of the dimen- sions of one or two feet, every ten or twelve feet, for the hills, and the residue of the ground be unencumbered for the plants to run on. They are generally raised, on culti- vated farms, between hills of Indian Corn, and may be planted in the garden or open field, in May and June, in hills eight or ten feet apart, with three or four seed in each hill. One quart of Field Pumpkin seed will plant from five to six hundred hills. An ounce of the finer kinds will plant from fifty to eighty hills. Pumpkins are not so tenacious of a particular soil as either Melons or Cucumbers, but in other respects are cultivated in the same manner, only that in raising them on a large scale the ground may be prepared with a plough, and afterward, as the weeds advance, the plough and harrow may be used between the plants until they begin to run, which will save much labour. The finest quality of Pumpkins are known to make good pies, and may also, after being boiled, be worked up with wheaten flour into bread, for which purpose they are fully equal to Indian meal. The knowledge of this fact may prove advantageous to farmers living at a distance from cities, as they may find a market for their grain or meal readier than for their Pumpkins. 88 RADISH. RADISH. Rapis ov Rave. Raphanus salivus. VARIETIES. Long Scarlet. Long White Naples. Long Purple. Purple Turnip. Scarlet, Pear-shape. Yellow Turnip. Scarlet Turnip. White Spanish. White Turnip-rooted. Black Spanish. Tue different varieties of Radish are extensively cultivated near large cities, chiefly for their roots, which are considered a luxury after a hard winter, and prove acceptable as warm weather approaches, provided they can be obtained in per- fection. The plant is also cultivated for the sake of the seed leaves, which are used as a small salad; and even the seed pods, if pickled while young and green, are considered by some a good substitute for Capers. Those who may be desirous of having good Riaaite early in the spring, should have a warm border prepared in the very best manner, so as to be ready to sow some of the Short Top Scarlet by the middle of March. If the ground should not be in good condition to receive the seed at this time, let it be delayed a few days; and by the first of April, have another bed prepared in the open ground, by digging in some good strong manure. The seed may be sown broad- cast, and raked in evenly, or in drills drawn about one inch deep, and a foot apart.* If you wish to have Radishes in regular succession, sow seed of the most esteemed varieties every two weeks, until the middle of May: if any be sown after this, it should be the kinds described in the second column of our Catalogue. * In the seasons for planting Carrot, Parsnip, Parsley, Leek, Celery, and such other seed as are tardy in germinating, a few grains of Radish seed dropped in each drill will produce good roots, and this crop will prove beneficial to those above enumerated, because the rows can be traced by the Radishes, which being of quick growth, may be pulled by the time the other plants are in full leaf. ROCAMBOLE. 83 These will endure the heat better than the others, and may be sown in drills, in small quantities, throughout the summer, until the latter end of August, when all the varieties may be sown in regular succession till the first of October. Market gardeners may prepare the ground with a plough, and cover such seed as may be sown broad-cast with a harrow. For early spring crops, the seed may be sown bread-cast, at the rate of from twelve to fourteen pounds to the acre, and about half that quantity will be sufficient, in drills drawn a foot apart. Of the large late kinds, five pounds to the acre will be enough, if sown regularly in drills, as directed. It may be necessary here to remind the gardener of the necessity of sowing tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., over his seed beds, in hot, dry weather, or he will find it difficult to raise Radishes in ynpropitious seasons. [ See article Turnip, also page 19 of the General Remarks.| —_—— ROCAMBOLE. Am v’Espacne. Allium scorodoprassum. Tus and the Allium sativum, or common Garlic, are raised in some gardens. Many people consider the Rocambole to be of a milder and better flavour than Garlic, but the bulbs are not so large. The plants are very hardy, and will grow in almost any soil or situation. They may be propagated either by the roots or seed ; the former ought to be separated and planted at the same time, and in the same manner, as Shallots. If raised from seed, they may be sown in drills, either shortly after the seed is ripe, or in the succeeding spring; they require only to be kept clear of weeds, and in the fol- lowing autumn may be taken up, the bulbs parted, and planted as before. g® 90 RHUBARB. RHUBARB. Ruvusarse. Rhewn. Ruvsars is a genus of exotic plants, comprising seven species, of which the following are the principal : 1. Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb, a native of Thrace and Syria, has long been cultivated in British gardens for the footsalks of the leaves, which are frequently used in pies and tarts. 2. Rheum undulaitwm is also cultivated for the same use. 3. The Palmaium, or true Officinale Rhubarb, is a native of China and the East Indies, whence its culture has been introduced into Europe: it produces a thick, fleshy root, externally yellowish brown, but internally of a bright yellow colour, streaked with red veins. It grows to great perfection in Scotland, as far north as Perthshire, (lat. 56,) and in Eng- land, Turkey, and various other parts of Europe. When the importance of this root as a medicine is considered, it is a matter of astonishment that it has not been more generally introduced into the United States. The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagated by off- sets taken from the roots early in the spring, or from seed sown late in autumn, or in March and April, in drills one inch deep and a foot apart. The indispensable points to the production of good roots of the Palmatum, are depth and richness of soil, which should be well pulverized before the plants are set out. Prepare beds of fine mould eighteen inches deep; in these put in the plants from the seed-bed, ten or twelve inches apart; this must be done when they have attained the height of four or five inches, and have thrown out as many leaves. The first season is the most critical, and much care is ne- cessary. If the weather be hot, the nursery must be shaded, and at all events frequently watered; for water, though hurtful to old plants, is now of the first importance. Wet weather is the most proper time in which to plant. The RHUBARB. 91 beds must be kept free from weeds during the summer, and on the approach of severe weather, covered up with light litter. In the early part of spring, this must be taken off, and in the beginning of April the plants must be transplanted into ground dug and prepared as directed for Asparagus. Those who cultivate the Palmatwm for the sake of the roots, should dig the ground two or three spades deep, and place the plants three feet apart every way. As to the other varieties, it is not so particular, only the plants must have room in which to grow. In the early part of November, the leaves being then decayed, the beds should be covered with dry litter; before this is done, a little earth should be drawn round the crowns of the plants. If there be any danger of water lodging, make trenches to carry it off. In the month of March, the beds should be stripped of their covering, and the ground well hoed and cleared of weeds. The roots of the Palmatwm must not be taken up until six or seven years old. The stalks of the other kinds may be cut every spring, as soon as the leaves are expanded. If Rhubarb stalks be required for use early in the spring, they may be obtained by placing flour barrels or deep tubs over some of the plants, and covering them up with fresh stable dung, or by any of the methods pointed out in the article under the head of Forcing Vegetables. The stalks of this plant are used for pies and tarts. After being stripped of the skin, or outer covering, and divested of the small fibres, or stringiness to which the plant is liable, in an advanced stage of growth, the stalks should be cut transversely into very small pieces, and then parboiled with sugar, and such spices as best suit the palate. Rhubarb will keep this way the same as other preserves, and may be used not only in pies and tarts, but it makes an excellent pudding, which is done by flattening a suety crust with a rolling-pin, then spreading on the fruit, rolling it up in an oval shape, and boiling it in a cloth. Prepared in this way, the fruit retains its virtues, and the pudding may be served up hot, in 92 SALSIFY. slices of from half an inch to an inch thick, with butter and sugar spread between the layers. Some boil the stalks to a juice, which being strained through a colander, will keep for years, if well spiced and seasoned with sugar. In England, large drying houses have been erected for the purpose of curing the roots of the Palmatum ; but this busi- ness may be done in this country as it is done in China: by the heat of the sun. After the roots have been well washed, and the small fibres cut off, they are to be cut transversely into pieces about two inches thick, and dried on boards, turn- ing them several times a day, in order to prevent the escape of the yellow juice, on which its medicinal qualities depend. In four or five days they may be strung upon strings, and suspended in a shady but airy and dry situation, and im two months afterward they will be fit for the market. SALSIFY. Sausiris ou Cerciris. Tragopogon porrifolus. Tuts plant grows spontaneously in the open fields of Eng- land, and is by some highly valued for its white edible root, and for the young shoots rising in the spring from plants a year old; these, when gathered while green and tender, are good to boil and eat in the same manner as Asparagus. Some have carried their fondness for this plant so far as to call it Vegetable Oyster. It requires the same kind of soil and management as Carrots and Parsnips. The seed may be sown at any time in April and May, an inch deep, in drills twelve inches apart. When the plants are two or three inches high, they should be thinned to the distance of six inches from each other, and afterward hoed. The ground should be kept clean and loose round the plants, by repeated hoeing; in the autumn they will be fit for use. The roots SCORZONERA. 93 may be taken up late in autumn, and secured in moist sand from the air; or suffered to remain out, and dug up when wanted. As the seed of Salsify do not all ripen uniformly, it should be sown moderately thick. To insure a regular crop, five or six pounds may be allowed for an acre of ground, or two ounces for every three perches. The mode of cooking recommended by an American au- thor is, “‘ To cut the roots transversely into thin pieces ; boil them in water, or milk and water; when boiled soft, mash them, and thicken the whole with flour to some degree of stiffmess; then fry them in the fat of salt pork, or butter ; they are a luxury.” In England the tops are considered excellent food when boiled tender, and served up with poached eggs and melted butter. They are by some considered salutary for persons inclined to consumption. Those afflicted with any symp- toms indicating the approach of that complaint, cannot harm themselves by eating the tops, when they are to be got, which is in the month of April; and if the roots are eaten when attainable, they may, perhaps, answer a still better purpose, and even the liquor in which they are boiled may possess some of the most valuable properties of the plant. SCORZONERA. Scorsonere. Scorzonera Hispanica. Turs plant has long been raised in British gardens, for culinary purposes, and especially as an ingredient in soups, on account of its palatable and nourishing roots. Some boil and eat them like Carrots, &c.; in which case they should be deprived of their rind, and immersed in cold water for half an hour, or they will be bitter. They are raised pre- cisely in the same manner as Salsify. If the seed be sown in o4 SEA-KALE. April, in a good deep soil, the roots will attain perfection in autumn, and continue good all the winter. They last from three to four years, according to the quality of the earth and the care bestowed upon them; but it is better to raise a few from seed every year. SEA-KALE. Cuovu MARIN. Crambe maritima. Tuts plant is found on the sea-shore, in the southern parts of England, where it grows spontaneously. As soon as it appears above ground, the inhabitants remove the pebbles or sand with which it is usually covered, to the depth of sev- eral inches, and cut off the young and tender leaves and stalks, as yet unexpanded and in a blanched state, close to the crown of the root; it is then im its greatest perfectiun. When the leaves are full grown, they become hard and bit- ter, and the plant is not eatable. It is cultivated in private gardens, and for sale, in various parts of England. Cultivators have differed widely respect- ing the mode of treating this plant; many conceiving that stones, gravel, and sea sand are essential to its growth, have gone to the expense of providing them; but it has been dis- covered that it will grow much more luxuriantly in a rich sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great depth. The seed of Sea-Kale may be sown in October, or as early in the spring as the ground can be brought into good condi- tion, in drills an inch and a half deep, and fourteen or six- teen inches asunder; the plants should afterward be thinned out to the distance of six or eight inches from each other in the rows, and kept clear of weeds by frequent hoeing through the summer. When the plants are a year old, every third row may be taken up, and also every other plant in each row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen inches apart; these SEA-KALE, 95 may be transplanted into good ground prepared as directed for Asparagus. Plant two rows in each bed, about eighteen inches apart; the best way is to make two drills three inches deep, and with a dibble set in the plants fifteen or sixteen inches from each other; -when these drills are filled, the crowns of the plants will be covered nearly two inches, but they will soon push through the earth. The plants left in the seed-bed may form a permanent bed, which should be forked or dug between the rows ; previous to this being done, lay on an inch or two of good rotten manure, and incorporate it with the earth around the plants. Some make new plantations of the old roots, which should be cut up into pieces of about two inches in length, and planted in March or April, three or four inches deep, at the distance before directed for the plants. At the approach of winter the leaves will die away, and disappear. The beds should then be thickly covered with dung, leaves, or sea-weed; this will not only protect the plants from frost, but will cause them to shoot up early in the spring. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this may be taken off, or, if well rotted, it may be mixed up with the earth; the crowns of the plants should then be covered to the depth of ten or twelve inches for blanching. Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand; some common sand and gravel; and others with large garden pots, inverted and placed immediately over the plants. If these pots be covered up with fresh horse dung, it will forward the shoots in growth, and make them sweeter and more tender. When your plants have been covered in either method three or four weeks, examine them, and if you find that the stalks have shot up three or four inches, you may begin cut- ting; should you wait till all the shoots are of considerable length, your crop will come in too much at once, for in this plant there is not that successsive growth which there is in Asparagus ; you may continue cutting until you see the heads of flowers begin to form; and if at this time you uncover it 96 SEA-KALE. entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which Broccoli is usually cut, and use it as such, you will find it an excellent substitute ; and this greatly enhances the value of the plant; as Broccoli does not stand our winter frosts, and can only be had when carefully protected, as recommanded when treat- ing of that vegetable; but Sea-Kale is sufficiently hardy to bear our winter frosts, without much injury. You are not to weaken the roots too much by over-cutting, for in that case it would injure their next year’s bearing : some of the shoots should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper vegetation, and strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great care should be taken in cutting, not to injure the crowns of the roots by cut- ting the shoots too close to them. Sea-Kale should be dressed soon after it is cut, as the goodness of the article greatly de- pends on its not being long exposed to the air. If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all round a small bed, about three feet wide, and thirty inches deep; fill it with hot dung, and as it sinks, raise it. ‘This will make the plants grow; and if hand lights are set over them, it will accelerate their growth. To have this rare vegetable in perfection, it should be cooked as soon as gathered. Let it be first soaked in water, seasoned with salt, for half an hour; then wash it in fresh water, and put it into the cooking utensil; keep it boiling briskly, skim clean, and let off steam. When the stalks are tender, which may be expected in from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to size and age, take it up, dish it, and serve it up with melted butter, gravy, and such condiments as are most agreeable to the palate. SHALLOT. 97 SKIRRET. Cuervis, ov GyroLte. Sium sisarum. Tuts plant is first cultivated by seed, and afterward by off- séts taken from the old roots, and planted very early in the spring, before they begin to shoot; but it is best to raise a small bed from seed every year, as the roots grow longer than those raised from slips, and are less liable to be sticky. The seed may be sown in drills the latter part of March, or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify, Parsnip, &c. In autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots are fit to use, and continue so till they begin to shoot in the spring. Skirrets should be planted in a light, moist soil, for in dry land the roots are generally small, unless the season proves wet. The root of the Skirret is composed of several fleshy tubers as large as a man’s finger, and joined together at the top. They are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper, and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold, with oil and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the taste and flavour of a Parsnip, and are by some considered a great deal more palatable. SHALLOT. Kenatote. Alliwn ascalonicum. Tue true Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is considered to possess the most agreeable flavour of any of the Allium genus; it is consequently highly deserving of cultivation. It is propagated by planting bulbs, or offsets, in the fall of the year, which may be set out with a dibble, in rows twelve inches apart, and from four to six inches distant in the rows ; or they may be placed in drills, two or three inches deep, and covered up with a trowel or hoe. The gardeners about New-York plant large quazitities of the bulbs toward the end of August, and early in Sepyem- 98 SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. ber; by this means they are enabled to supply the market in April and May with a mild -4lliwn, which while green meets a ready sale. Those intended for seed may remain in the ground until June or July; after the tops have decayed, the bulbs must be taken up, and the offsets divided : these should be kept in a dry place to plant the ensuing autumn. It will require at least four bushels of bulbs, if measured when first taken from the ground, to plant a quarter of an acre; because after they are trimmed and deprived of their seed stalks, the bulk will be reduced one half. SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. Epinarp. Spinacia. VARIETIES. Large Round-leaved. Holland, or Lamb’s Quarter Broad-leaved Savoy. New Zealand. Tue Spinacia oleracea, or common Spinach, is very hardy, and consequently a very important vegetable for cold cli- mates. It merits attention from its bemg extremely whole- some and palatable, and from its keeping green even after having been cooked. It makes a delicious dish when served up with the gravy of roast meat, melted butter, &c. As Spinach is the only vegetable that can be raised to ad- vantage the latter end of the year, the gardener should, to- wards the end of August, prepare such ground as may have been occupied by summer crops, and by having it well ma- nured for this crop, it will be in good condition for Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, &c., the spring following. If the ground be got ready, so as to have several beds sown in succession, from the first to the end of September, the most forward of these, if covered up with straw at the approach of cold weather, will furnish greens for the table when other vegetables are scarce, and the later crops will SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 99 recover the effects of a hard winter, and produce a whole- some vegetable early in the spring. If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March and April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut before the ap- proach of hot weather, or it will run to seed. To raise it in perfection at this season, it should be sown in drills about a foot apart, and be frequently hoed ; this will keep itina growing state, and, consequently, prevent its running up to seed as quick as it otherwise would. It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor ground; let the ground be well manured with good strong dung, and it will well reward you for your trouble by its abundant produce. If Spinach be cultivated in drills a foot apart, it will re- quire from seven to eight pounds of seed to plant an acre of ground. Some gardeners use more than double that quantity in sowing broad-cast. Be careful to pick Spinach exceedingly clean, and wash it in five or six waters previous to cooking it. Some cook Spinach in a steamer over boiling water, others boil it in water ; but the best way is to put it into a saucepan that will just hold it, without water, then strew a little salt upon it, and cover it close. Put your saucepan on a clear quick fire; and when you find the Spinach shrunk and fallen to the bot- tom, and the juice which comes from it boil up, it is done. In order that it may be rendered capable of absorbing a moderate quantity of gravy, melted butter, &c., which are indispensable with green vegetables, let it be well drained in a sieve, or colander, before it is dished. The New Zealand Spinach, or Tetragona exrpansa, is not much cultivated in this country; its nature seems to be op- . posite to the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat better than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer, by planting the seed in April and May. Being of luxuriant growth, it should be planted in hills three feet apart, and about two seed in a hill. The leaves will be fit for use dur- ing the summer, and until late in the autumn. 100 ; SQUASH. SQUASH. Gourpe Giraumon ov Potiron. Cucurbita melopepa. VARIETIES. Early Bush Scollop. Vegetable Marrow. Green Striped Bush. Winter Crookneck. Early Crookneck. Lima Cocoanut. Large Cushaw. Acorn, or California. Tue several varieties of Squash are very useful in this and other warm climates, as they can be grown in perfection in the summer, and therefore prove a good. substitute for Tur- nips, which cannot be raised in perfection in hot weather. They should be planted in May and June, in hills, prepared in the same manner as for Cucumbers and Melons, and their subsequent management is the same in every respect. The bush kinds should be planted three or four feet apart, and the running kinds from six to nine, according to their nature, as some will run more than others. It is always best to plant five or six seed in a hill, to guard against accidents; as when the plants are past danger, they can be thinned to two or three in a hill. One ounce of Squash seed will plant from fifty to a hundred hills, according to the sorts and size of the seed. The fruit of the Early Summer Squash is generally gath- ered for use before the skin gets hard, and while it is so ten- der as to give way to a moderate pressure of the thumb nail. The Winter Squashes should be suffered to ripen, and collect- ed together in October, in the manner recommended in the Calendar for that month. All kinds of Squashes should, after having been boiled tender, be pressed as close as possible between two wooden. trenchers, or by means of a slice or skimmer, made of the same material, until dry, and then prepared for the table in the same manner as Turnips. TOMATO. 101 TOMATO. TomaTe, ov PomME D’amour. Solanum lycopersicum. VARIETIES. Large Red. Pear-shaped. Large Yellow. Cherry-shaped. Tue Tomato, or Love Apple, is much cultivated for its fruit, which is used in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an agreeable acid flavour; it is also stewed and dressed in various ways, and is considered very wholesome. The seed should be sown early in March, in a slight hot- bed, and the plants set out in the open ground, if settled warm weather, in the early part of May. In private gar- dens it will be necessary to plant them near a fence, or to provide trellises for them to be traimed to, in the manner recommended for Nasturtiums; they will, however, do very well, if planted four feet distant from each other every way. Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in the sum- mer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the first week in May; these plants will be fit to transplant early in June, and the fruit may ripen in time for preserves, or for catsup. One ounce of good Tomato seed will produce upward of four thousand plants; and a single plant has been known to yield upward of a bushel of fruit. Tomatoes may be preserved in a stone or glazed earthen pot, for use in the winter, by covering them with water in which a sufficient quantity of salt has been dissolved to make it strong enough to bear an ege. Select perfectly ripe ber- ries, and cover the pot with a plate in such a manner that it presses upon the fruit without bruising it. Previous to cook- ing these Tomatoes, they should be soaked in fresh water - for several hours. Besides the various modes of preparing this delicious ve- getable for the table, it may be preserved in sugar, and used either as a dessert, or on the tea-table, as a substitute for Peaches or other sweetmeats. It also makes exqusite pies’ and tarts, and excellent catsup. y* 102 TURNIP. A celebrated writer observes, that ‘“‘ the common Tomato made into a gravy, by stewing over the fire, and used as a sauce for meat, has been known to quicken the action of the liver and of the bowels, better than any medicine he ever made use of.” He states farther, that ‘“‘ when afflicted with inaction of the bowels, headache, a bad taste of the mouth, straitness of the chest, and a dull and painful heaviness of the region of the liver, the whole of these symptoms are removed by Tomato sauce, and the mind, in the course of some few hours, is put in perfect tune.” To make them into catsup, use one pint of salt to one peck of Tomatoes; bruise them, and let them stand two days; then strain them dry, and boil the juice until the scum ceases to rise, with two ounces of black pepper, the same quantity of pimento or allspice, one ounce of ginger, one of cloves, and half an ounce of mace. TURNIP. Navet. Brassica rapa. VARIETIES. Early Garden Stone. } K Large English Norfolk. Early White Dutch. | 2 Long Tankard, or Hanover. Early Snow Ball. 1 ep White Flat, or Globe. Early Red Top. | SS Yellow Maltese. Strap Leaved Red Top. o Yellow Stone. Early Green Top a Dale’s Yellow Hybrid. Yellow Aberdeen. o Long Yellow. Long White. jes Russia, Swedish, or Ruta Baga. Tus is a wholesome and useful plant, both for man and beast, and highly deserving of cultivation. It being the last esculent vegetable in our catalogue, that is raised from seed sold at the various seed stores, I shall endeavour to stimulate those of our yeomanry who have hitherto neglected the cul- ture of this field as well as garden production, to exertion and diligence, by inserting a few extracts from a paper that now lies before me. TURNIP. 103 «“ Culture of Turnips—Until the beginning of the eigh- teenth century, this valuable root was cultivated only im gar- dens, or other small spots, for culinary purposes ; but Lord Townsend, who attended King George the First in one of his excursions to Germany, in the quality of Secretary of State, observing the Turnip cultivated im open and extensive fields, as fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility over lands naturally barren, on his return to England brought over some of the seed, and strongly recommended the practice which he had witnessed, to the adoption of his own tenants, who occupied a soil similar to that of Hanover. The experiment succeeded ; the cultivation of Field Turnips gradually spread ever the whole county of Norfolk, and has made its way into every other district of England. Some of the finest grain erops in the world are now growing upon land, which be- fore the introduction of the Turnip husbandry, produced a very scanty supply of grass for a few lean and half-starved rabbits.” Mr. Colquhoun, in his ‘ Statistical Researches, estimated the value of the Turnip crop annually growing in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, at fourteen million pounds sterling, (equal to upward of SIXTY MILLIONS OF DOL- rars.) But when we farther recollect, that it enables the agriculturist to reclaim and cultivate land, which, without its aid, would remain in a hopeless state of natural barrenness ; that it leaves the land clean and in fine condition, and also insures a good crop of Barley, and a kind plant of Clover ; and that this Clover is found a most excellent preparative for Wheat, it will appear that the subsequent advantages derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitely exceed. its estimated value as fodder for cattle. The preceding remarks show the kind of land that may be made capable of producing not only Turnips, but other things of equal value. It must, however, be granted, that some soils naturally suit particular kinds of vegetables better than others, and that, in general, exotic plants will sneceed 104 TURNIP. best in such soils as are nearest like their own native soil. As we have not always a choice, I would inform the Young Gardener, if he has a very light soil, which is not suitable for vegetables in general, he may sometimes get two crops of Turnips from it in one year, by sowing seed for the first crop in March, and that for his second about the middle of August. For general crops, it will be better to have ground manured with short rotten dung, or compost containing a considerable proportion of coal, wood, peat, or soapers’ ashes. Ground that has been well manured for preceding crops, and also ground fresh broken up, will do well for Turnips. It is important that particular attention be paid to the time of sowing the seed; for if the first crop be not sown soon enough to be gathered early in July, they are seldom fit for the table, being hot, stringy, and wormy; and if the crop in- tended for autumn and winter use is sown before August, unless it be a very favourable season, if they even escape the attacks of insects and reptiles, they often get so defective, that they seldom keep through the winter.* To have Turnips in perfection, they should be hoed in about a month after they are sown, or by the time the plants have spread to a circle of about four inches, and again about a month from the first hoeing, leaving them from six to nine inches apart. They will yield the cultivator more profit when treated in this way, than when left to nature, as is too frequently done. * Previous to sowing Turnip seed, the gardener should procure a suitable quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco dust, so as to be prepared for the attacks of insects. It should be recollected that Turnip seed will sometimes sprout within forty-eight hours after it is sown, and that very frequently whole crops are devoured before a plant is seen above ground. A peck of either of these ingredients, mixed with about an equal quantity of ashes, or even dry road dust, scattered over the ground, morning and evening, for the first week after sowing the seed, would secure an acre of ground, provided the composition be used in such a way that the wind carry it over the whole plot ; and as the wind often changes, this end may be effected by crossing the land in a different direction each time, according as the wind may serve. Tf gardeners who raise Radishes, Cabbage, and such other vegetables as are subject to the attacks of insects, were to pursue this course, they would save themselves from considerable loss. TURNIP. 105 It is generally admitted that one pound of Turnip seed is amply sufficient for an acre of ground, yet some will use considerably more, because of the difficulty of distributing so small a quantity of seed regularly broad-cast. This difficulty is, however, obviated by sowing the seed in drills; and al- _ though it may seem a tedious process to those who have no other means of doing it than by hand, the facilities thus af- forded of hoeing between the rows, more than compensate for the extra labour. I once induced a friend of mine to sow four ounces of Turnip seed, in August, in drills a foot apart, by which means he made it extend over more than half an acre of land; and by hoeing the plants twice, he had the gratifica- tion of pulling four hundred bushels of handsome Turnips, which is more than is generally taken from an acre of land cultivated in the ordinary way. If seed of the Russia or Swedish Turnip be sown in drills, any time in the month of July, or even early in August, they will produce fine roots toward the end of October, pro- vided the land be good, and well worked. When the plants are up strong, they must be hoed and thinned to the distance of twelve or fifteen inches from each other; another hoeing will be necessary in five or six weeks afterward. This will make them grow freely. If cultivated in the field, frequent ploughing between the rows will be beneficial. The Turnip is a favourite vegetable with some, and in England, a leg of mutton and caper sauce is considered by epicures as but half a dish without mashed Turnips. To have them in perfection, they should, after having been de- prived of their rind, be equalized by cutting the largest trans- versely in the centre, and then, after being boiled tender, let them be taken up, and pressed as dry as possible; at the same time, let a lump of butter and a due proportion of Cayenne pepper and salt be added, and be beaten up with the Turnips until properly mixed. Use the natural gravy from the meat unadulterated, and such condiment as may be most esteemed. 106 AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. GrRaines D’HeRBeS AROMATIQUES, ODORIFERANTES ET A L’USAGE DE LA CUISINE. Angelica, Garden, Angelica atropurpurea. Anise, Pimpinella aniswm. Basil, Sweet, Ocymum basilicum. Borage, Borago officinalis. Burnet, Garden, Poturium sanguwisorba. Caraway, Carum carut. Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet, Scandix odorata cerefolium. Clary, Salvia sclara. Coriander, Coriandrum sativum. Dill, Anethum graveolens. * Fennel, Common, * Fennel, Sweet, Marigold, Pot, * Marjoram, Sweet, * Mint, Spear, Anethum feniculum. Anethum dulce. Calendula officinalis. Origanum marjorana. Mentha virides. * Mint, Pepper, * Mint, Penniroyal, * Sage, Common, * Sage, Red, Savory, Summer, * Savory, Winter, Mentha piperita. Mentha pulegiwm. Salvia officinalis. Salvia clandestinoides. Satureja hortensis. Satureja montana. * Tarragon, * Thyme, Common, * Thyme, Lemon, Artemisia dracunculus. Thymus vulgaris. Thymus serpyllum. Aromatic Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy odour and savoury taste; many of them are used as small pot herbs, and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As only a small quantity of these are necessary in private gardens, a by-corner may be allotted for them, and such medicinal herbs as may be wanted in a family. It may be necessary to explain, as we go along, that there are three principal descriptive names given to plants, namely, Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials. The Annuals being but of one season’s duration, are raised every year from seed. The Biennials are raised from seed one year, continue till the second, then perfect their seed, and soon after die; some of these should also be raised every year from seed. The Perennials may be raised from seed, but when once raised, they will continue on the same roots many years. Those MEDICINAL HERBS. 107 marked * are of the latter description, and may be propagated by suckers, offsets, cuttings, or parting the roots. Those who have not already a plantation of these herbs, may sow the seed of any of the different kinds in April or May, in drills about half an inch deep, and twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. The plants may afterward be transplanted into separate beds; or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two feet apart, the seed may be sown in them, and the plants afterward thinned out to proper distances, according to the natural growth of the different kinds of plants. PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL AND OTHER PURPOSES. GRAINES DE PLANTES MEDICINAL. Bene, Boneset, cr Thoroughwort, * Balm, Bean, Castor Oil, Burdock, Catnep, Celandine, * Chamomile, * Comfrey, * Elecampane, Feverfew, * Horehound, * Horsemint, * Hyssop, * Lavender, Lovage, * Mallow, Marsh, * Motherwort, _* Patience Dock, * Pinkroot, Carolina, Poppy Opium, (annual,) * Rosemary, * Rue, Garden, Saffron, Bastard, Skullcap, or Mad Dog Plant. Snakeroot, Virginian, * Sorrel, Sesamum, orientale. Eupatorium perfoliatum. Melissa officinalis. Recinus communis. Arclium lappa. Nepeta cataria. Chelidonwm majus. Anthemis nobilis. Symphytum officinale. Inula heleniwm. Chrysanthemum parthenium. Marubiam vulgare. Monarda punctata- Hyssopus officinalis. Lavendula spica. Ligusticum levisticum. Althea officinalis. Leonurus cardiaca. Rumex patentia. Spigelia Marylandica. Papaver somniferum. Rosmarinus officinalis. Ruta graveolens. Carthamus tinctorius. Scutellaria lateriflora. Aristolochia serpentarita, Rumez acetosa. 108 AROMATIC HERBS, ETC. * Southernwood, Artemisia abrotanum. * Speedwell, Virginian, Veronica Virginica. * Spikenard, Aralia racemosa. * Tansy, : Tanacetum vulgare. * Wormwood, Artemisia absinthium. Tue generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs may be raised from seed sown in April and May. The greater part of the above-mentioned plants are Perennial, and will multiply from the seed they drop, or from partings from the roots. The offsets, roots, or young plants thus raised, should be planted at suitable distances from each other early in the spring. The beds should afterward be kept free from weeds, and as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry, for winter use. The best way to preserve them after they are dried, is to rub them so as to pass them through a sieve, then pack them in bottles or boxes, each kind by itself; they should be after- ward kept in a dry place. In the month of October, the herb beds should be exam- ined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender plants, should be taken up, potted, and placed in a frame or greenhouse for the winter. Thyme, Hyssop, Winter Savory, Southern- wood, Sage, Rue, and the like, will require their tops to be neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Burnet, Tarragon, Tansy, Penniroyal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint, Lovage, and other kinds of hardy Perennial Herbs, should be cut down close to the ground. After this is done, it will be proper to dig lightly, and loosen the ground between the roots of the shrubby plants ; but the beds of close-growing running plants, such as Mint, Running Thyme, and ali other creepmg herbs, will not well . admit of digging; therefore, after the stalks are cut down, and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the alleys, and strew some of the loose earth evenly over the beds; and if the ground be rather poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten dung will be of considerable service. PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. 109 This dressing will give proper nurture and protection to the roots of the plants, a neat appearance to the garden, and in spring the shoots will rise with renewed vigour. Having finished the Catalogue, I will now proceed to give directions for making the most of a piece of ground well manured for early crops. In the general directions at the commencement, I observed that good rich manure was indis- pensably necessary to the production of some particular kinds of vegetables; it may be farther observed, that rich ground will produce two or three valuable crops, but it re- quires some attention, to make use of it to the best advan- tage. If the gardener has leisure to dig such ground in March or April, as he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Toma- toes, Egg-plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Ra- dishes, Spinach, Lettuce, or other small salads on it, by leav- ing a space for his hills or drills; or Radish seed may be sown lightly over the beds of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, &c., but they must not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injure the other plants. When the first crops are gathered, it requires a little consideration before a second is planted, im order that a sufficient quantity of the best ground may be reserved for the most particular and valuable varieties of vegetables. That I may be understood, I have adopted the following plans, representing beds of earth ; this will answer the same purpose as bringing my readers on the ground. No. 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart. March 25.—Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed. March 25.—Sow Radish seed. March 25.—Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed. The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the inter- mediate ground for the other plants. 10 110 PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. No. 2. Drills ten inches apart. April 1.—Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. April 15.—Plant early Cabbage Plants. April 1.—Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the ground, the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered. If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle of July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnip, or Black Radish seed. If the Cabbage be of the late-heading kinds, the ground may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach, Fetticus, Lettuce, &c., in which case it will require a fresh coat of manure No. 3. Drills twelve inches apart. March 20.—Plant slips or cuttings of Horse-radish. March 20.—Plant Turnip-rooted Beet seed. March 20.—Plant slips or cuttings of Horse-radish. If required, a light crop of Radishes may be raised on this bed, which should be pulled while young. Hoe and thin out the Beets as they progress in growth, and when full grown, they may be gathered, without disturbing the Horse-radish. [See article Horse-radish.| PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. a1 No. 4. Rows, or drills, fourteen inches apart. March 20.—Plant hardy Lettuce plants. March 20.—Pant hardy Lettuce plants. Hoe them the first week in April; previous to hoeing the second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and plant Beet or Carrot seed; this may be covered up in hoe- ing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strong, the Lettuce will be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended to, they may be cleared off soon enough to produce fall Cab- bage, Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c. No. 5. Rows, or drills, sixteen inches apart. March 25.—Plant hardy Lettuce plants. March 25.—Plant hardy Lettuce plants. April 20.—Plant Early York Cabbage plants, either between the rows or between the Lettuce. As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage, and it will soon cover the ground. This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the va- rieties above mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of which are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted with Cabbage twice in succession. The above, or preceding plans, present a fair specimen of what may be done on a small piece of good ground. Ifthe 112 > HOT-BEDS. young gardener takes the trouble to keep an account of his transactions, he will soon make discoveries of still greater importance. If not sufficiently acquainted with the different varieties of Cabbage plants, for imstance, so as to distinguish the one from the other, by making a memorandum at the time of sowing the seed, will soon get acquainted with the different varieties of plants; he will also discover the differ- ence in the growing of his seed, and know who to blame if any particular kind should not come up. The following represents a Hot-bed with four sashes, sown March 1: Early Dwarf, | Early Battersea,} Early Lettuce, Egg-plant Tomato Seed, Seed, &c. Early York, Drumhead, or partitioned off Peppers, or other spring | other summer as directed in ate ' &c. in shallow : note to article Cabbage Seed. | Cabbage Seed. drills. Egg-plant. It may be necessary to remind my readers of the neces- sity of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Lettuce, To- mato, and Egg-plant seed in hot-beds the last week in Feb- ruary, or early in March; for this purpose, let some fresh stable dung and rich compost be engaged beforehand. Some gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it is always safest to make them in pits from eighteen inches to two feet deep;* in order to do this, the pits should be dug * When durable heat is required for forcing vegetables, the beds should be made on level ground, in order that linings may be applied to the out- side of the frame, which, by frequent renewal, will enliven the heat of the bed, and thus bring tender vegetables to maturity, which would otherwise suffer from a decline of the heat. For particular directions, see Observa- tions on Forcing Vegetables ; also, article on Forcing Asparagus. HOT-BEDS. 113 in autumn, or a heap of dung may be deposited on the ground intended for the beds before the frost sets in, and good earth may be obtained from the pits. without any difh- culty. ‘The frames should be made of good sound planks; the - back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones may be so sloped as to make a fifteen-inch plank do for the front. A frame calculated for four sashes, of three feet in width by six in length, as above described, should be nearly thirteen feet long, and about six broad at the top. The frame being set over the pit, and properly fastened, the fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pit to the depth of twenty to twenty-four inches; if the dung be ina good heating condition, cover it six or eight inches deep with mould, then lay on the sashes, and protect the beds from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days the rank steam will pass off; it will then be necessary to stir the mould before the seed be sown, to prevent the growth of young weeds that may be germinating; then sow the seed either in shallow drills or broad-cast, as equally as pos- sible, reserving a small quantity of the warm mould to be sown. lightly over the seed. The beds should afterward be attended to, as directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower. This description of a hot-bed is intended expressly for the raising of Spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such other plants as may be required for early planting. Beds made earlier in the season, or for forcing, will require a greater quantity of manure. [See Calendar for January, February, and March] 10* 114 OBSERVATIONS On FORCING VEGETABLES. Berore I commenced preparing this work for the press, I intended to have written largely on the subject of forcing fruits as well as vegetables; but when I considered my motto, and that I was writing for young gardeners, I con- cluded to occupy my pages in such a manner as to effect the greatest possible good at the smallest expense. Of the seve- ral branches of Horticulture, some are of greater importance than others ; and as the products of the kitchen garden form important articles of food for the bulk of mankind, it should be our first care to treat largely on the subject of this most useful part of gardening. Next to this is the cultivation of fruits, and the production of ornamental plants and flowers, each of which will be noticed in their respective departments. As I stand pledged to offer some remarks on forcing, or rather forwarding vegetables, by artificial means, | shall en- deavour to confine my observations to such points as are of primary importance; and in order to convince my readers of the importance of this subject, I shall first endeavour to show the utility of an artificial climate suited to the various species of useful plants. In England, a regular succession of vegetables can be obtained from the natural ground every month in the year, and the fruits of that country, from the summer heat being moderate, are of longer continuance than with us, and yet the English make gardening a science, and employ the elements, as well as the ingenuity of man, in the production of fruits and vegetables out of the ordinary season. ON FORCING VEGETABLES. ; 115 I shall not attempt to treat of the cultivation of Pine- apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grown in forcing- houses; nor would it be advisable with us to undertake to raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c., in frames throughout the se- vere winters of our Northern States; but it must be acknow- ledged, that the extreme heat of our summers is as detri- mental to the cultivation of some of the most valuable kinds of fruits and vegetables, as the coldness of our winters, and for these reasons, artificial aid is more necessary here in the winter and spring of the year than in England. The inhabi- tants of that country obtain a supply of the different varieties of Artichokes, Broad Beans, Borecole, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Turnips, and salads in general, a great part of the year from their kitchen gardens, whereas, if we were to attempt to supply our mar- kets with culimary vegetables at all times, in any thing like the abundance that they have them there, we must, out of the ordinary season for gardening operations, turn our attention to the protecting and forwarding, as well as the forcing system. Before I proceed to show the method of forcing vegeta- bles, it may be necessary for me to remind my readers, that in providing an artificial climate, they should consider the nature of the plants they intend to cultivate, and endeavour to supply them with that which is best calculated to nourish and support them. I have, in another part of this work, endeavoured to show, that heat, light, air, and moisture, are each essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup- plied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances. In the midst of our Northern winter, which is the usual time for forcing in England, we are subject to north-west winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we have not yet discoveted how to make an artificial air, it will not be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom heat under any kind of vegetable, until such times as he can impart a tole- rable share of salubrious air, as the heat without air will soon destroy the fruits of his labour. 116 ’ ON FORCING VEGETABLES. Perhaps the safest time to commence forcing in frames, is soon after the middle of February, and the early part of March. I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials must be regulated by the season of the year at which the work is commenced, and also to the purposes for which the hot-beds are intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising half-hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in the spring, may be made in the manner recommended for the common hot-bed; but if substantial heat is required to be kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to admit of linings as the heat decreases; and the dung should undergo a regu- lar process of preparation, according to the use it is intended for. Compost heaps should also be provided, in order to furnish suitable mould to the different species of plants; for this purpose, all the old hot-bed dung and mould, leaves, tan, turf, sand, and other light manures and decayed animal dung, should be collected together. In some cases, when a slight hot-bed is recommended for forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a seedling Cucumber bed be at liberty, it may answer every purpose for Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy plants; or such a bed may be spawned for Mushroons, if required. If the forcmg be commenced before the coldest of the winter is past, great precaution must be used, lest the plants be injured by cold cutting winds, or destroyed by heat for want of air. To prevent the former accident, warm dung should be placed around the frames, and the sashes covered with mats and boards every night. If full air cannot be ad- mitted in the day time, the sashes must be slidden down to let off the steam; at the same time mats may be laid over the aperture, to prevent cold air entering to the plants. If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is some- times the case, means must be used to decrease it. This is generally effected by making holes in the bed with a stake sharpened at the end, or with a crow-bar; which holes should be filled up when the heat is sufficiently reduced. In lining FORCING ASPARAGUS. Lelie hot-beds, if the heat is reduced in the body of the beds, holes may be carefully made to admit heat from the fresh linings, so as to enliven the heat of the bed. A Fahrenheit thermometer should always be at hand at the time of forcing, to be used, when necessary, to regulate the heat in the beds; and the water that is used in cultiva- ting plants in frames, should be warmed to the temperature of the air, or according to the heat required for the various kinds of plants, which will be shown in the annexed articles. FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-BEDS. As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by extreme bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, and with less trouble, in flued pits in a hot-house, than in dung hot-beds, because the heat from tan is more regular ; buta very suita- ble bed may be formed in a deep hot-bed frame, made in the usual way. If dung alone, or a mixture of dung and leaves, be used, it should be in a state past heating violently before itis made into a bed; but if the gardener has no choice of. materials, he may make his hot-bed in the usual way, and if the depth of heating materials be two feet, he may lay on a foot of old hot-bed dung, tan, or any light compost, that will admit of the heat passing through it. It may be necessary to state farther, that though too much bottom heat should be avoided, heat is necessary to the pro- duction of the vegetable in a moderate time, which is gene- rally effected in a month or six weeks after the commence- ment of the operations. For the purpose of keeping up a regular heat, a lining of hot dung should be applied around the frame, and changed as occasion requires. Provide plants from two to four, or even six years old, trim their roots, and place them in rows on the beds; when one row is laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then proceed in the same way with one row after another, keep- 118 FORCING ASPARAGUS. ing them on a level, as the surface of the bed at first lay, till you have finished planting them; then lay among the buds and roots some fine vegetable or other rich mould, work it in among them with your fingers, and cover the beds over about an inch thick; and upon that, lay three inches in depth of vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan, or any other light compost that will admit the water to run quickly through. If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide down the sashes tll it begins to decline. The temperature at night should never be under 50°, and it may rise to 65° without injury ; when the buds begin to appear, as much air must be daily admitted as the weather will permit. In two or three days after the beds are planted, the heat will begin to rise: the beds should then have a moderate supply of water, applied from a watering-pot with the the rose on; repeat such watering every three or four days. When the buds are up three inches above the surface, they are fit to gather for use, as they will then be six or seven inches in length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, and twist them off from the crown: this is a better method than to cut them; at least, it is less dangerous to the rising buds, which come up thick in succession. An ordinary-sized frame calculated for three sashes will hold from three to five hundred plants, according to their age and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a dish every day for about three weeks. On the above estimate, if a con- stant succession of Asparagus be required, it will be neces- sary to plant a bed every eighteen or twenty days. Rhubarb and Sea-Kale may be, and sometimes are, forced in the same manner as Asparagus; but the most general mode is to excite them where they stand in the open garden, by the application of warm dung. FORWARDING BEANS. 119 FORWARDING BROAD BEANS, OR ENGLISH DWARES. In the article Broad Beans, (Vicia faba,) I have already urged the necessity of early planting, in order that a full crop may be insured before the approach of warm weather ; but as the ground is often frozen at the time they ought to be planted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes, and placed in a moderate hot-bed in February, or early in March. If the plants thus raised be not made too tender, they may be transplanted into the open ground the latter end of March; this will enable them to produce their fruit early in June. Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece of ground late in autumn, it will keep the earth from freezing ; and if this manure be removed in February, and a frame placed over the spot and protected from extreme cold, the seedlings may be raised therein, and transplanted into the garden, as directed in article, page 39. Those who have not the convenience of hot-beds or frames, may, in the month of February, plant some of the seed about two inches deep in boxes kept in the cellar, or in earth on the floor, which will produce plants fit to transplant in the _ open garden toward the latter end of March or early in April. nd FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. TE most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may be raised in hot-beds; but they require a substantial heat to mature them. ‘The temperature within the frames should be kept up to 60°, and may rise to 70° or 75°, provided the steam be let off. In order to insure sufficient heat to bring them into a bearing state, the plants may be first raised in small pots plunged into a hot-bed, or a small bed may be prepared, 120 FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. earthed over with light rich compost, six inches deep, and the Beans planted therein, and covered one inch. The second hot-bed should be earthed over to the depth of eight or nine inches, and the Beans transplanted as soon as they are two or three inches high, in cross rows twelve or fifteen inches apart, by three or four inches in the rows, or in clumps a foot apart. When the season is so far advanced that one bed, with the help of linings, will bring the plants well into fruit, the seed may be planted at once to remain for podding ; or if the gardener should choose to mature his crop in the open ground, he may raise his plants in boxes or pots in the month of April, and plant them out in a warm border early in May. Beans raised in hot-beds will require considerable atten- tion. Cover the glasses every night with mats and boards; admit fresh air every mild day, give occasional gentle water- ings, and earth them up carefully as they progress in growth, to strengthen them. FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. In treating of the method of cultivating this family of plants, in the articles under each head, I recommended an . artificial climate to be provided for them, so as to induce them to arrive at full perfection in the winter and early part of the spring. Gardeners who have provided frames for the purpose of making hot-beds, in the spring, may make use of them through the winter, in protecting Broccoli and Cau- liflower; and as the frames will not be wanted until the se- verity of the winter is past, such plants as are left at that season may be protected by a covering of boards, straw, or litter, as occasion may require. If Cauliflower be required early in the summer, the plants raised in the preceding autumn should be transplanted from the beds into the open ground, in the month of March, and FORCING CUCUMBERS. 121 be protected by hand glasses. This would insure their heading before the approach of extreme warm weather, which is very injurious to Cauliflower. FORCING CUCUMBERS. To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should be an object of emulation with every gardener. The business of forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks before the fruit is desired, and a succession of plants should be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the Short Prickly, others the Long Green and White Spined ; and seed two or three years old is generally preferred, as it is not so apt to run to vines. The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich mould, and placed in a hot-bed; and some sow the seed in the eaith of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In either case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their two seed leaves, they may be transplanted into pots, putting three plants in each pot; when this is done, apply water warmed to the temperature of the bed, and shut down the glasses, keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over the glass, till the plants have taken root. When they are about a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruit- ing bed. To prepare the dung properly, is of the greatest impor- tance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is made into a bed, it cannot be done afterward, as it requires turning and managing to cause it to ferment freely and sweetly. Fresh dung from the stable should be laid in a heap, turned three times, and well mixed with a fork; if any ap- pears,dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it between the two extremes of wet and dry, that the whole may have a regular fermentation. A dry situation should be chosen on which to form beds, ll ey 122 FORCING CUCUMBERS. so that no water can settle under the dung. Tne substance of dung from the bottom of the bed should be from three to four feet, according to the season of planting, and the mould should be laid on as soon as the bed is settled, and has a lively, regular-tempered heat. Lay the earth evenly over the dung, about six inches deep; after it has lain a few days examine it, and if no traces of a burning effect are disco- vered, by the mould turning of a whitish colour and cakine, it will be fit to receive the plants; but if the earth appears burned, or has a rank smell, some fresh sweet mould should be provided for the hills, and placed in the frame to get warm; at the same time, vacancies should be made to give vent to the steam, by running down stakes. After the situation of the bed has been ascertained, and the heat regulated, the hole should be closed, and the earth formed into hills; raise one hill in the centre under each sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of the glass; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the mid- dle of each hill. The plants should be immediately watered with water heated to the temperature of the bed, and ey shaded till they have taken root. The temperature should be kept up to 60°, and may rise to 80° without injury, provided the rank steam be allowed to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timely linings of well-prepared dung must be applied all round the frame. Begin by lining the back part first; cut away the old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank two feet broad, to the height of a foot, against the back of the frames ; as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings round the remainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be vare- ful to let off the steam, and give air to the plants at all op- portunities. Give necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of a mild day, in early forcing; and in the afternoon, in the advanced FORCING CUCUMBERS. 123. season of hot sunny weather. Some use water impregnated with sheep or pigeon dung. As the roots begin to spread, and the vines to run, the hills should be enlarged by gather- ing up the earth around them, for which purpose a supply of good mould should be kept ready at hand, to be used as ' required. When the plants have made one or two olan stop them, by pinching off the tops, after which they generally put forth two shoots, each of which let run till they have made one or two clear joints, and then stop them also; and afterward con- tinue throughout the season to stop thers at every joint; this will strengthen the plants, and promote their perfecting the fruit early. The following artificial operation is recommended by Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the production of a full crop of Cucumbers under glass. In plants more freely exposed to the open air, the impregnation is effected by nature. Those which some call false blossoms are the male flowers, and are indispensable in this operation. “The Cucumber,” Abercrombie observes, “bears male and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The lat- ter only produce the fruit, which appears first in miniature, close under the base, even before the flower expands. There is never any in the males; but these are placed in the vici- nity of the females, and are absolutely necessary, by the dis- persion of their farina, to impregnate the female blossom ; the fruit of which will not otherwise swell to its fall size, and the seed will be abortive. The early plants under glass, not having the full current of natural air, nor the assistance of bees and other winged insects to convey the farina, the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to effect the im- pregnation. At the time of fructification, watch the plants daily; and as soon as the female flowers and some male blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set the fruit the same day, or next morning at farthest. Take off a male blossom, detaching it with part of the footstalk. Hold this 124 FORWARDING LETTUCE. between the finger and thumb; pull away the flower leaves, or petals, close to the stamens and anthere, or central part, which apply close to the pistil in the bosom of the female flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge thereon some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed thus to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, while of a lively full expansion; and generally perform it in the early part of the day, using a fresh male, if possible, for every impregna- tion, as the males are usually more abundant than the female blossoms. By this management, the young fruit will soon be observed to swell freely.” Cucumbers attain the proper size for gathering in from fifteen to twenty days after the time of setting; and often in succession for two or three months or more, in the same beds, by good culture. FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND GLASSES. Ir it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open garden at an early season, the plants may be raised in pots as before directed, and planted in a warm border either in the earth, or in hot-béd ridges. A hand-glass should be provided for each hill, which must be kept close down every night and in cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The plants may be hardened by degrees, by taking off the glass in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets warm they may be left to nature. FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER. Heap Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the winter season by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds made in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cabbage FORCING MUSHROOMS. 125 plants, &c. (See article Cabbage.) For such Head Lettuce as may be wanted for use before Christmas, the Hardy Green, the Loco Foco, and Coss, are the most suitable kinds to sow; and plants may be raised in the open border by sow- ing seed two or three times between the middle of August _and the first week in September. The plants from these sowings may be set out, about six inches apart, in cold-beds, when they are one or two inches high. In September and early in October, some of the Silesia, Sugar Loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts, may be sown in a cold-bed frame, which, with the aid of sashes, will produce plants in from a month to six weeks; these being planted in gentle hot-beds in November and December, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful sup- ply can be obtained from the open borders. The same at- tention is necessary, as respects the protection of these beds, as for other half-hardy plants. FORCING MUSHROOMS AT ALL SEASONS. Tue Agaricus is said to be the most extensive genus in the vegetable kingdom. The species are determined upon various principles. As some of the kinds are poisonous, it is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. Loudon says, it is most readily distinguished when of a middle size, by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell. In a more advanced age, the gills become of a chocolate colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other kinds of dubious quality ; but that species which most nearly resembles it, is slimy to the touch, destitute of fine odour, and has a disagreeable smell. Again: the noxious kinds grow in woods, while the true Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be gathered only in such places. Unwholesome Jung? will sometimes spring up on artificial iy 126 FORCING MUSHROOMS. beds in gardens; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine Mushrooms. The poisonous toad-stool, .Igaricus cirocus, may generally be detected by the presence of a sickly, nau- seous smell, though some hurtful kinds are so free from any thing disagreeable in the smell, as to make any criterion, | drawn from that alone, very unsafe. The wholesome kinds, however, invariably emit a grateful, rich odour. The Aga- ricus campestris is most generally cultivated. Dr. Withering mentions other eatable varieties, which grow considerably larger, but are inferior in flavour; he says “that a plant of the variety Georgia was gathered in an old hot-bed at Bir- mingham, which weighed fourteen pounds; and Mr, Stack- house found one fifty-four inches in circumference, having 2 stem as thick as a man’s wrist.” Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the year, by a proper regulation of the time and manner of forming the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without ma- king a bed on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn into the top mould of old hot-beds. The methods of procuring and propagating spawn, and of forming Mushroom beds, are numerous. Indigenous spawn may be collected in pasture lands in September and October, or it may be found in its strength and purity in the paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse-walks under shelter; it is frequently found in old hot-beds and dunghills in the summer season, and Mushrooms of good quality may often be seen begining to form on the surface, like large peas; when these are absorbed, it is time to take out the spawn, which is generally in hard, dry lumps of dung, the spawn having the appearance of whitish coarse pieces of thread. The true sort has exactly the smell of a Mush- room. If spawn thus collected be required for immediate use, it may be planted in the beds at once, or it will keep three or four years, if laid to dry with the earth adhering to it, and afterward placed in a warm, dry shed, where there FORCING MUSHROOMS. 127 is a current of air; but if it be not completely dried, the spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not bear the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture. Such of my readers as may have hitherto been unac- quainted with the cultivation of Mushrooms, must perceive, from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is simply a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to be ca- pable of producing and preserving spawn; but in order to have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as to be always at command. To this end, a quantity of fresh horse droppings mixed with short litter, should be collected ; add to this one third of cow dung, and a small portion of good earth, to cement it together; mash the whole into a thin compost, like grafting clay; then form it in the shape of bricks ; which being done, set them on edge, and frequent- ly turn them until half dry; then with a dibble make one or two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of spawn the size of an egg: the bricks should then be laid where they can dry gradually. When dry, lay dry horse dung on a level floor, six ar eight inchag thick; on this, pile the bricks, the spawn side uppermost. When the pile is snugly formed, cover it with a small portion of fresh warm horse dung, sufficient in quantity to produce a gentle glow through the whole. When the spawn has spread _ itself through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and they may be laid up in any dry place for use. Mushroom spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve its ve- getating powers for many years, if well dried before it is laid up; if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself. - Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges im the open air, covered with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of the same sort under cover, as in the open sheds of hot-houses. They are also made in close sheds behind hot-houses, or in houses built on purpose, called Mushroom-houses. A mo- derately warm, light cellar is peculiarly suited for the pur- 128 FORCING MUSHROOMS. pose in the winter season, as no fire is necessary, and but little water, the application of which frequently proves inju- rious, when not judiciously managed. Mushrooms may also be raised in pots, boxes, hampers, &c., placed in warm situa- tions ; in old-beds, in pits with glazed frames, and in dark frames or pits. The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare a body of stable dung, moderately fermented, about a yard in thickness, more or less, according to the size and situa- tion in which the bed is to be formed; when the strong heat has subsided, an inch of good mould may be laid over it, and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six inches apart; after this is done, another layer of mould, an inch thick, may be added, and then a coat of straw. Beds well constructed will produce Mushrooms in five or six weeks, and will continue to produce for several months, if care be taken in gathering, not to’ destroy the young ones. As Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw should be spread carefully over the bed. Beds mado in a convoniant placo, whore there is space all around, may be formed so as to make four sloping surfaces, similar to the roof of a house; this, by being spawned on the four sides, will yield abundantly. The celebrated Mr. Nichol makes his beds without spawn. The following are his directions, taken from Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Gar- dening : « After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel, or brick-bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry and free from under damp, lay a course of horse-droppings six inches thick, These should be new from the stables, and must not be broken, and the drier the better. They may be collected every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the above thickness; but they must not be allowed to ferment or heat. Inthe whole process of making up, the bed should be as much exposed to the air as possible; and it should be carefully defended from wet, if out of doors. When this FORCING MUSHROOMS. 129 course is quite dry, and judged to be past a state of fermen- tation, cover it to the thickness of two inches with light, dry earth; if sandy, so much the better. It is immaterial whe- ther it be rich or not, the only use of earth here being for spawn to run and mass in. Now lay another course of drop- - pings, and earth them over as above, when past a state of fermentation: then a third course, which, in like manner, earth all over. This finishes the bed, which will be a very strong and productive one, if properly managed afterward. “Observe, that in forming the bed, it should be a little rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet or moist than the sides. This may be done in forming the sole or floor at first, and the bed would then be of equal strength in all parts. If it be made up agamst a wall in a cellar, stable, or shed, it may have a slope of a few inches from the back to the front, less or more, according to its breadth. I have sometimes been contented with two courses as above, instead of three; and often, when materials were scarce, have made them up slighter, thus: three four-inch courses of droppings, with one inch of earth between each, and a two-inch covering at top. Such a bed as this, I have had produce for ten or twelve months together; but very much depends on the state of the materials, and on the care taken in making it up, also on the after management. “ The droppings of hard-fed horses only are useful. Those of horses kept on green food will, of themselves, produce few or no mushrooms. I have made up beds from farm horses, fed partly on hard and partly on green food, and from carriage or saddle horses, fed entirely on corn and hay; treated them in the same way in every respect; and have found, not once, but always, those made from the latter most productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be pro- cured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in the coun- try, any time of the year; and if the supply be plentiful, a bed of considerable dimensions may be made and finished within five or six weeks. In as many more weeks, if in a 130 FORCING MUSHROOMS. stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will begin to produce, and often sooner; but if the situation of the bed be cold, it will sometimes be two or three months in producing Mush- rooms.” It may be necessary to state farther, that extremes of heat, cold, drought, and moisture, should be avoided in the culti- vation of Mushrooms. If the temperature keeps up to 50° in the winter, the beds will be safe, and the heat in the beds may rise to 60° or even 70° without injury. Air also must be admitted in proportion to the heat, and 60° should be aimed at as a medium temperature. Water, when given a little at a time, is better than too much at once, after the spawn has begun to spread ; and the water for this purpose should always be made blood warm. A light covering of straw may be used to preserve moisture on the surface ; and if the beds are made in open frames, or otherwise subject to exposure, the straw may be laid thicker than on beds made in a cellar. Should beds fail in producing Mushrooms after having been kept over hot or wet, it may be inferred that the spawn is injured or destroyed; but if, on the contrary, a bed that has been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished with warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid oyer the whole. If this does not enliven the bed after having lain a month, take off the earth; and if, on examination, there is no appearance of spawn, the whole may be destroyed; but if, on the contrary, the bed should contain spawn, it may be renovated by covering it again, especially if any small tuber- cles be discernible; if the heat should have’ declined, the spawn may be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If beds be formed in hot-bed frames under glass, some mats or straw must be laid over the glass to break off the intense heat of the sun. Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been introduced into the garden, there are several eatable kinds. FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 131 In Poland and Russia there are above thirty kinds in com- mon use among the peasantry. They are gathered at diffe- rent stages of their growth, and used in various ways: raw, boiled, stewed, roasted; and bemg hung up, and dried in their stoves and chimneys, form a part of their winter stock of provisions. Great caution is necessary in collecting Mushrooms for food, and none but the botanist should gather any but the kinds we have described.* Physicians say, «‘ That all the edible species should be thoroughly masticated before they are taken into the stomach, as this greatly lessens the effect of poisons. When accidents of the sort happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, and then the vege- table acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon juice, or that of apples; after which, give ether and anti-spasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive vomiting. Infusions of gall- nut, oak bark, and Peruvian bark, are recommended as capa- ble of neutralizing the poisonous principle of Mushrooms.” It is, however, the safest way not to eat any but the well- known kinds. FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. Aurnoven our citizens have an opportunity of procuring Melons without artificial aid, yet, as their continuance is short, it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the direc- tions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass will apply to Melons,-with very few exceptions ; care, however, must be taken that they be kept away from each other at the time of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole crops being entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus being * In order to ascertain whether what appear to be Mushrooms are of the true edible kinds, sprinkle a little salt over the inner or spongy part ; if, in a short time after, they turn yellow, they are unwholesome ; but if black, they may be considered as genuine Mushrooms. 132 FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. raised too near each other. Those who wish to forward Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or April, to raise plants in; the beds may be formed and the plants managed in precisely the same manner as is directed for Cucumbers. If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand-glass applied to each hill, Melons may be obtained one month earlier than the usual time. Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets, may gratify the public taste early in the season, by pursuing the forwarding, if not the forcing system. Ridges may be prepared in the following manner: In April or May, a trench may be dug in a warm border, about two feet deep and three wide, and of sufficient length for as many hand-glasses as are intended to be employed, allowing three feet for every hill. Some good heating manure should be laid in the pits, managed the same as a common hot-bed; to this must be added good rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches for the plants to grow in; as soon as the mould is warm, the seedlings may be planted, three plants in each hill, after which the hand-glasses should be set on, and shaded. After the plants have taken root and began to grow, the glasses should be raised in fine days, and propped up so as to admit fresh air; and as the warm weather progresses, they may be taken off in the middle of fine days so as to harden the plants gradually to the weather; and by the latter end of May they may be left to nature. FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. Tue best kinds of Peas to force, are those that are the most dwarfish, and the seed is better for being two or three years old, as they will bear earlier, and make less straw. Peas run less to vine by being transplanted, than when they. are sown where they are to remain; the plants may be raised in a gentle hot-bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots FORCING POTATOES. 133: or boxes. They do not require excessive heat; the tempe- rature must be progressive; beginning at about 50° for the nursery-bed, and from that to 60° or 65° for fruiting. When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen inches apart; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should be from twelve to eighteen inches in depth. As the Peas progress in growth, the earth should be stir- red ; and when six inches high, small sticks may be applied, so that the tendrills of the Peas may easily take hold; and they should be moulded at the bottom to enable them to sup- port themselves. When they are in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly promotes the forming and filling of the pods; they will re- quire to be regularly watered, and as the spring advances they may be exposed to the weather, taking care to shelter’ them in the event of a sudden change. FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. Poratogs may be forced in a great variety of ways. Those who attempt to mature Potatees in frames, will of course provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined to pro- duce large tops ; the Broughton Dwarf, Early Mule, Nonpa- reil, the Oak, and the Ash-leaved, are of this description. Potatoes may be forwarded in growth previous to being planted in the beds, by placing them in a warm, damp cellar. Some forward them in pots and boxes, and afterward mature them in a hot-bed; others plant them in the bed at once, in which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to twenty inches deep, and the heating materials should be sufficient to keep up a moderate heat for two or three months. Terhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this climate, is to provide pots for the purpose; plant one set in each pot in January, and set them in a warm cellar, till a bed 12 134 FORWARDING RADISHES, ETC. can be prepared in February, in which put the pots. While the tuberous roots are forming, and before they fill the pots, prepare the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in the mould with the balls of earth attached to them. The beds should be kept free trom frost, and air should be given at every opportunity. The common round Potatoes may be forwarded, by laying them thick together in a slight hot-bed in March, and when they are planted in the borders, a quantity of comb-maker’s shavings may be deposited in each hill; this will greatly promote their growth. FORWARDING RADISHES, &c. Rapisuzes may be obtained early in the spring by means of a moderate hot-bed. The earth in the frame should be a foot in depth, and air should be admitted every day after they are up, or they will incline more to tops than roots. Hf they come up too thick, they should be thinned to one or two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion re- quires, and keep them well covered in cold nights. For raising early Radishes without frames, hot-beds may be made in ridges, and arched over with hoop bends, or pliant rods, which should be covered with mats at night, and during the day in very cold weather. In moderate days, turn up the mats at the warmest side; and on fine mild days, take them wholly off, and harden the plants gradually to the weather. Turnips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of salads or pot herbs, may be raised in the same way, by sowing the seed in drills and keeping the ground clear of weeds. FORWARDING RHURARB. 135 FORWARDING RHUBARB. Txosr who may desire to have this excellent substitute for fruit at an early season, may procure it without much trouble. It is customary with some persons in the southern parts of England, to keep this plant growing in their kitchens, so that they may have it for use at any time. They have strong neat boxes, made for the purpose, about three feet deep and two wide, and in length according to the demand, from four to eight feet; these being kept clean, have the appearance of flour-bins, and they are sometimes so contrived as to have shelves over them in imitation of a kitchen dresser. The plants being taken up out of the garden towards winter, are placed as close at the bottom of the box as they can be, with their crowns level: and some sand being thrown over, suf- ficient to fill up the interstices, and to cover the crowns about half an inch, finishes the operation. No farther trouble is necessary, except to give a little water, just to keep the roots moist, as they need no light at all; and if the roots be planted in the garden when spring opens, they will, after having taken root, vegetate as strongly as before they were removed. Roots of Rhubarb taken up in the autumn, packed in sand, and deposited in a warm cellar, will produce stalks earlier than if kept in the garden; and if placed in hot-beds they will yield abundantly, and that at a very early season. The consumption of this plant in the British metropolis may be judged of by the following extract from the London Gardener’s Magazine: ‘ Rhubarb, which has for some years been cultivated, is still a subject of increasing interest, and more extensively in demand than ever. On the fifth of May, no less than eight wagon loads, each weighing at least a ton, with an equal quantity im smaller proportions, were sold in Covent Garden market alone. One cultivator, Mr. Myatt, of New Cross, Deptford, had three wagon loads; he has, I believe, nearly twenty acres of it under culture.” This plant 136 FORWARDING TOMATOES. contains an acid as fine as the Gooseberry, for pies and tarts ; a square rod of ground will supply a family ; and it may be used till midsummer or later. [For fuller explanations, see article Rhubarb.| FORWARDING SALAD HERBS, SMALL PLANTS, &c. For the purpose of raising Mustard, Cress, and other salad herbs, also Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c., in small quanti- ties, a hot-bed may be made, early in the spring, of good heating materials, on the top of which may be laid leaf mould, old tan, or light compost, to the depth of about nine inches. The various kinds of seed may be sown in boxes or flower- pots, and plunged in the top mould up to their rims, and by being well attended to, a supply of small salads, as well as small seedling plants, may be raised without much labour or difficulty. This method is also well calculated for raising annual flower plants at an early season. FORWARDING TOMATOES. As this vegetable has become highly appreciated of late years for its excellent qualities, it may be necessary here to observe, that plants raised from seed sown in hot-beds the lat- ter end of February, or early in March, as directed in former pages, will grow to the length of four inches and upward by the first of April, which is one month earlier than they can with safety be trusted in the open garden. If a few of these be pulled from the hot-bed, and transplanted into flower-pots, they may be kept growing therein until settled warm weather, and then turned out and deposited in the ground with the balls of earth entire; or a fruiting-bed may be prepared by the first of April, in the manner recommended for Bush FORCING VEGETABLES. ¥37 Beans, Cucumbers, &c., and the plants inserted in the earth at once; these will produce ripe fruit a month or six weeks earlier than those cultivated in the ordinary way. FORCING VARIOUS KINDS OF VEGETABLES. Tur following simple method of forcing vegetables on a small scale is recommended by a correspondent of a London magazine : “ Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple, though not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one foot eight inches deep; a quantity of horse droppings, per- fectly dry; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must be trodden perfectly tight; repeat these triple layers till the boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together. “Four such boxes at work are sufficient for a moderate demand ; and of a dozen, four brought in at a time, and placed upon a flue of a green-house stove, will produce a fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on the flue of a green-house ; a warm stable, cellar, or any other similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also con- venient for affording a plentiful stock of superior spawn. “The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus; but for this purpose a sufficient stock of three-year-old planis must be at hand; also eighteen boxes, four of which are the necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling family. Half fill the boxes with decayed tanner’s bark, leaf mould, or any similar mould; on this, pack the roots as thickly as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place in a forcing-house will suit them: on the flue, under the stage, or, in short, any place where they can enjoy the ne- -)* i } ' ; 138 FORCING VEGETABLES. cessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus and Mush- rooms, Sea-Kale, Buda-Kale, Angelica, small salad, as also various pot herbs, may be raised in the same manner.” Those who have not the conveniences recommended in a green-house, &c., may place the boxes in a hot-bed. The glasses being laid on, and the beds covered at night, will soon promote the growth of the plants, and produce vegetable luxuries at a season when garden products in general are comparatively scarce. It is unnecessary to show of how much value such pro- cesses may be in minor establishments, or in a young country. I wish it to be understood, that in order to the successful cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have treated of, great pains must be taken in every stage of their growth. If the advice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxuries of the garden. My directions are founded on the success attending the practice of some of the best gardeners in this country. I have also had sufficient experience to warrant me in this attempt to contribute my mite toward the attain- ment of this kind of useful knowledge. METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 139 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. Hovrton. Aumulus lupulus. _Aurnoven the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, yet, as it is more or less used in every part of our country, it may not be amiss to treat of its culture. It is presumed, that, in pro- portion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our citizens will have recourse to beer as a wholesome beverage ; and as a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops are cured, I propose giving directions for their management throughout, so as to enable those who choose, to prepare their own. My information is collected chiefly from Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Plants. «The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknown length of time for its flowers, which are used for preserving beer. Its culture was introduced from Flanders in the reign of Henry the Eighth; though indigenous both in Scotland and Ireland, it is little cultivated in those countries, owing to _ the humidity of their autumnal season. Like other plants of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on different individuals ; the female plants, therefore, are alone cultivated. There are several varieties grown in Kent and Surrey, under the name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings, &c.; the first is the most hardy, differing little from the Wild or Hedge Hop ; the Golding is an improved and highly productive variety, but more subject to blight than the other.* “The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom; a sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as to prevent a free circulation of air. The soil requires to be well pulverized and manured previous to planting. In Hop districts, the ground is generally trenched either with a * Besides these are the Farnham. or Golden Grape, which is cultivated for an early crop; and for late picking, the Mayfield Grape, or Ruffler, is esteemed, which is a dwarfish variety. Great caution is necessary, lest the varieties get mixed, as they will not ripen or dry equally, and consequently cannot be of one uniform colour and quality. 140 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally in rows six feet apart, and the same distance in the row. By some, five, six, or seven plants, are placed in a circular form, which circles are distant five or six feet from each other. The plants or cuttings are procured from the most healthy of the old stools; each should have two joints or buds: from the one which is placed in the ground springs the root, and from the other the stalk. Some plant the cuttings at once where they are to remain, and by others they are nursed a year in a garden. An interval crop of Beans or Cabbage is gene- rally taken the first year. Sometimes no poles are placed at the plants till the second year, and then only short ones of six or seven feet. The third year the Hop generally comes into full bearing, and then from four to six poles, from fourteen to sixteen feet in length, are placed to each circle, or one pole to each plant, if cultivated in straight rows. The most durable timber for poles is that of the Span- ish Chesnut. “The after culture of the Hop consists in stirring the soil, and keeping it free from weeds; in guiding the shoots to the poles, and sometimes tying them for that purpose with bass or withered rushes ; in eradicating superfluous shoots which may rise from the root, and in raising a small heap of earth over the root to nourish the plant. “Hops are known to be ready for gathering when the chaffy capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consist- ence. Hach chaffy capsule, or leaf calyx, contains one seed. Before these are picked, the stalks are detached, and the poles pulled up, and placed horizontally on frames of wood, two or three poles ata time. The Hops are then picked off by women and children. After being carefully separated from the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large cloth hung all round within the frame on tenter hooks. When the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large © sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to be dried. ‘This is always to be done as soon as possible after METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. j41 they are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain long in the green state in which they are picked. In very warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state, they will often heat in five or six hours; for this reason, the kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from the commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking season. “The operation of drying Hops is not materially different from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same con- struction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight to twelve inches deep, according as the season is dry or wet, or the Hops ripe or immature. When the ends of the Hop stalks become quite shrivelled and dry, they are taken off the kiln, and laid on a boarded floor till they become quite cool, when they are put into bags. “ The bagging of Hops is thus performed: in the floor of the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop-bag. After tying a handful of Hops in each of the lower corners of a large bag, which serve after for handles, the mouth of the bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest on the edge of the hole or trap; and the bag itself being then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed from the hoop, and the end sewed up, two other handles having been pre- viously formed in the corners in the manner mentioned above. The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put into pockets or fine bagging, and the brown into coarse or heavy bagging. The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale, and the latter by the porter brewers. But when Hops are intended to be kept two or three years, they are put into bags of strong cloth, and firmly pressed so as to exclude the air. 142 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. “ The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the operation of picking: The shoot or bind being stripped off, such poles as are not decayed, are set up together in a coni- cal pile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is formed by three stout poles bound together a few feet from their tops, and their lower ends spread out. «The produce of no crop is so liable to variation as that of the Hop; in good seasons an acre will produce 20 cwt., but from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered a tolerable average crop. The quality of Hops is estimated by the abundance or scarcity of an unctuous clammy powder which adheres to them, and by their bright yellow colour. The expenses of forming a Hop plantation are considerable ; but once in bearing, it will continue so for ten or fifteen years before it requires to be renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to diseases; when young it is devoured by fleas of different kinds; at a more advanced stage, it is attacked by the green fly, red spider, and ottermoth, the larvae of which prey even upon their roots: The honey-dew often materially injures the Hop crop; and the mould, the fire-blast, and other blights, injure it at differ- ent times toward the latter period of the growth of the plant.” It appears from an article in the ‘Genesee Farmer,’ that the culture of Hops is becoming an important branch of hus- bandry in the State of New-York. A correspondent observes, that ‘‘as fine samples have been grown in Orange and Ma dison counties as in any part of the world. The Hop is con- sidered somewhat precarious; but when the season is good, the profit is very great. The average product may be stated at 700 Ibs., though it has reached 1,600 lbs. to the acre; and in the latter case the expenses amounted to sixty dollars. The ordinary, or average price, may be stated at eighteen cents per pound. The profits on an ordinary crop, accord- ing to these assumed data, would be about seventy dollars to the acre. It often falls materially short of this, however, from the want of knowledge and care in gathering and dry- ing the crop. METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 143 “ The quantity of Hops taken to Albany and the neigh- bouring towns on the Hudson, this year (1834), has been estimated at 2,300 bales, or 50,000 Ibs., which, had not many of them been prematurely gathered, or badly cured, would have yielded to the growers ninety or a hundred thousand _ dollars. But of the 2,300 bales there was not more than 200 bales, we are informed, that ought to have received the denomination of first sorts. Many of them were picked too early, before the matter that imparts to them their value was sufficiently developed ; and others were scerched or smoked in curing. This carelessness has seriously affected the char- acter of our Hops abroad, and they are no longer purchased by the Philadelphia brewers. They would soon form an im- portant article of export, if their character was raised by care in their culture and drying, and a rigid inspection.” The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops are considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently gathered in the spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus. The stalks and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk a strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing which is described by Linnzeus in his Flora Suecica. A decoction of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as Sarsaparilla ; and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A pillow filled with Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended with the bad effects of soporifics, which require to be taken internally. ee eT . 144 OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER, AS INFLU- ENCED BY CHANGES OF THE MOON. Lest the reader should judge, from my introducing this subject, that I am an advocate for moon-planting, in any other sense than in ascribing the various changes of the weather to the influence of that great luminary, I would here offer a few observations in reference to the practice and prejudices of many persons in choosing the first quarter of the moon for planting such vegetables as yield their produce above the surface, as Cabbage, &c., and the last quarter or wane of the moon for such as grow and yield their produce chiefly in the earth, and below the surface, as Potatoes, &c. I would first observe, that if the moon has any direct in- fluence over vegetable productions, it must operate in many cases quite the reverse to what these theorists generally ex- pect; for instance, if the earth and weather should happen to be dry in the first week after planting certain species of seed, such would fail to germinate, for want of its most essential nutriment, moisiure; and in consequence of such seed lying dormant in the earth, until after another change of the moon, if that luminary influences the seed at all, in such case it must be contrary to the objects of the honest planter. - As I deem this argument alone sufficient to shake the foundation of moon-planting, in the sense I have described, I shall at once submit to the reader’s attention the following observations and table, from the pen of the justly celebrated Dr. Adam Clarke. Some exceptions, however, may be taken to his rules, with regard to the wind, which does not operate in all places alike. Jor example, in rainy seasons with us, the wind is generally east, northeast, or southeast, and cold weather is attended by a northwest wind. In England, where these calculations were made, it is in some respects different : “From my earliest childhood I was bred up on a little farm, which I was taught to care for and cultivate ever since I was able to spring the rattle, use the whip, manage the OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 145 sickle, or handle the spade ; and as I found that much of our success depended on a proper knowledge and management of the weather, I was led to study it ever since I was eight years of age. I believe meteorology is a natural science, and one of the first that is studied ; and that every child in the country makes, untaght, some progress in it; at least, so it was with me. I had actually learned, by silent observa- tion, to form good conjectures concerning the coming weather, and on this head, to teach wisdom to those who were imper- fect, especially among those who had not been obliged, like me, to watch earnestly, that what was so necessary to the family support should not be spoiled by the weather before it was housed. “Many a time, even in tender youth, I have watched the heavens with anxiety, examined the different appearances of the morning and evening sun, the phases of the moon, the scintillation of the stars, the course and colour of the clouds, the flight of the crow and swallow, the gambols of the colt, the fluttering of the ducks, and the loud screams of the seamew, not forgetting the hue and croaking of the frogs, From the little knowledge I had derived from close observa- tion, I often ventured to direct our agricultural operations in reference to the coming days, and was seldom much mistaken in my reckoning. “ About twenty years ago, a table purporting to be the work of the late Dr. Herschel, was variously published, pro- fessing to perform prognostics of the weather, by the times of change, full, and quarters of the moon. I have carefully consulted this table for years, and was amazed at his general accuracy: for though long, as you have seen, engaged in the study of the weather, I never thought that any rules could be devised, liable to so few exceptions. I have made a little al- teration in the arrangements, illustrated it with further ob- servations, and have sent it to you that you may insert it, as it has hitherto been confined generally to a few almanacs.” 13 TABLE AND OBSERVATIONS. 146 A TABLE For telling the Weather through all the Lwnations of each Year, for evers Tunis table and the accompanying remarks are the result of many years” f actual observation ; the whole being constructed on a due consideration 0 the attraction of the sun and moon, in their several positions respecting the earth, and will, by simple inspection, show the observer what kind of weather will most probably follow the entrance of the moon into any of its quarters, and that so near the truth as to be seldom or never found to fail. IN WINTER. = S) S) Z : TIME OF CHANGE. | IN SUMMER. | the morning, : south or west. Between 2 and 4 morning, Cold with frequent showers. Snow and stormy. | ec 4and 6 sé Rain. Rain. ss Grand 23 Wind and rain. Stormy. “ 8 and 10 “ Changeable. Cold rain if wind be west. | —the Full Moon—or the last Tf the New Moon—the first Quarter ~ { S Gaines, — Frequent showers. Snow, if east. | S At 12 0’clock at noon, and 2 P.M.| Very rainy. Snow or rain. = |Between 2 and 4 P.M. Changeable. Fair and mild. SS ge 4 and 6 P.M. Fair. Fair. z Fair if wind NW., Fair and frosty if wind N. or NE. S$ 4 0 roa teh ecule Rainy if S. or SW. Rain or ee if S. or SE, e “ 8 and 10 P.M. Ditto, Ditto. «10 and midnight, Fair. Fair and frosty. OzsERVATIONS. 1. The nearer the times of the Moon’s change, first quarter, full and last quarter, are to midnight, the fairer will the weather be during the seven days following. 2. The space of this calculation occupies from ten at night till two next morning. 3, The nearer to midday or noon the phases of the moon happen, the more foul or wet weather may be expected during the next seven days. 4 ‘The space of this calculation occupies from ten in the forenoon to two in the afternoon. These observations refer principally to the summer, though they affect spring and autumn. nearly in the same ratio. 5. ‘fhe moon’s changes—first quarter—full, and last quarter, happening during six of the afternoon hours, i. e., from four to ten, may be followed by fair weather; but this is mostly dependent upon the wind, as is noted in table. | 6. ‘Though the weather, from a variety of irregular causes, is more uncertain in the latter part of autumn, the whole of winter, and the beginning of spring, yet, in the main, the above observations will apply to | those periods also. eel 147 INTRODUCTION TO THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. Tue object of this Calendar is to assist the memory of the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may find employment in some of the departments of gardening in every month of the year. The figures refer to the pages in which farther directions may be found, relative to the operations adverted to. In page 30 it has been shown, that the directions accom- panying our Catalogue may be applied to all the climates of the United States, by a minute observance of the difference of temperature. It may be here observed, that the soil is susceptible of cul- tivation three months earlier in the remotest South, than in the coldest part of our Northern territory; the Calendar, therefore, for March, may be applied to the middle of Janu- ary in the warmest climates, and to the middle of April in the coldest; some exceptions to this rule must, however, be taken in the Southern States after the three spring months, for the following reasons : i. As warm weather at the South is of longer continuance than in the North, plantations of those species of vegetables denominated tender in the table, page 26, may be made in the open garden from March to August. 2. Extreme heat being detrimental to the cultivation of many half-hardy vegetables, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, &c., these can only be cultivated in perfection in spring and autumn, the latter crops, therefore, should not be planted till August or September. [See note to article Broccoli, page 49; also 52, 72, and 104] 148 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 3. Many of the half-hardy class, as also those designated hardy in our table, may be cultivated throughout the winter months, by forwarding such as are required for early spring use, after the summer crops are taken off. [See table, expli- cation, &c., page 26 to 29; also page 115. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, the annexed Calendar will answer in the order it stands, by applying the directions to the beginning of the first spring month in the warmest climates, and to the latter end in the coldest cli- mates, bearing in mind that where summer is short, the main crops must follow the early in quick succession, with a view to their maturity before winter. JANUARY. “ Procewostics foretoken most truly some things, Of summers, and autumns, and winters, and springs 5 By them from the past we may all ascertain The future, respecting the winds and the rain.” Ir is customary, at this season of the year, with all prudent men, to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the results of their industry throughout the past year, in order to make improved arrangements for the future. The mere gardener, having no complicated accounts to adjust, may occupy his time to valuable purposes. If he be not a book- reader, he should be a book-keeper, (see page 14,) and he should frequently take a survey of his former practises and those of his acquaintances, with a view to improve on every thing he has done, or seen done. If he consults writers on Horticulture, he should do as the author has endeavoured to do in preparing this little work for the press; not adopt the mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in speculative ideas, nor even tread in the steps of others, but endeavour to erect his edifice of knowledge upon a good settled foundation. In ail his pursuits, whether he attempts to follow the example MONTHLY CALENDAR. 149 of practical and exemplary men, hear lectures, or consult authors on the subject, he should do as every sensible man does at his daily meals, take that which suits him best, and leave the residue for others. If this little work should be considered worth an annual perusal, he may read the Gene- ral Remarks, in this month, (January,) and make a memo- randum of such things as may be obtained in moments of leisure, in preference to putting it off till it is wanted. I shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as an index to the book, and in pursuit of my object, shall begin at the General Remarks, page 13, which suggest, that if a man has a garden to form, he will require fencing materials. If these should be already at hand, every gardener should provide manures, ingredients for the destruction of insects, drilling machines, and other tools; poles or rods for the support of Peas, Beans, or other climbing plants he may intend to cul- tivate ; and if he intends to use hot-beds, or forcing-frames, he should make arrangements to get compost and heating materials, in time for the work to be performed in the next month. If he depends on this book for information, he may read the General Remarks, from page 13 to 30; and also from page 112 to 122, on Forcing Vegetables. FEBRUARY. ; “A cold, sour autumn, they sternly maintain, A long, severe winter will bring in its train ; If summer and autumn be both dry and warm, Calm opens the winter, it closes in storm.” ALTHOUGH stern winter, with its ice-bound chains, exerts its influence over the soil, the gardener may find employment preparatory to commencing his operations of ploughing and planting, as the year progresses. Perhaps the most import- ant business at this season is to collect plenty of manure; next to this, the gardener, who intends to raise early plants 1 D* Le 150 MONTHLY CALENDAR. for forcing or otherwise, should see that his hot-bed frames are in good repair and ready for use; he should also repair his sashes, and make straw mats with which to cover them. In preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds or forcing-pits, let it be kept secure from heavy falls of snow or rain, and frequently turned over preparatory to its being made into a bed. With a view to give all attention to cul- ture as the season advances, the gardener should look over his hardy fruit trees and hardy vines, and commence pruning them, by cutting off all dead and superfluous branches; he may also clean trees from moss and canker, and search for the nests of insects, with a view to destroy them while ina torpid state, to prevent their spreading. If he has trellises, or any implement of husbandry out of repair, he should em- brace the most favourable opportunities of putting them in good condition, and of repairing his fences, &c. Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is well protected by a close fence or wall, and not in any way con- nected with any building calculated to harbour rats, mice, moles, &c., which are very apt to take up their abode in warm duug, to the great injury, and sometimes the destruc- tion, of the beds. It is necessary that the foundation for the beds be dryly situated, and not liable to be inundated with water from melted snow, &c. When all is prepared as di- rected in pages 112 and 113, begin to sow Cabbage, Egg- plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seed, 112; force Asparagus, 117; Kidney Beans, 119; Cucumbers, 121; plant Peas, 132; Potatoes, 133; sow Radish seed, 134. In cold-beds, well protected, plant Broad Beans, 119; sow Cabbage seed, 54. After the seed is sown, the beds will require constant attention; cover them up well in cold nights, and give air at all opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat in the beds, as directed under the different heads, from page 112 to 138. If the heat be excessive, it must be decreased as directed in page 116; and if it should become necessary to let off steam in cold weather, care must be taken to cover the appertures MONTHLY CALENDAR. 151 sufficiently to keep out frosty air. Give air at all opportu- nities to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in frames, of last year’s sowing. MARCH. “Tr the sun appear dim, surrounded with haze, And his disk ill-defined, and faded his rays; If white at his setting, of power if shorn, The signs are all certain, there’!l soon be a storm.” Tis month affords considerable employment to an indus- trious gardener. Manure may be drawn on the ground and distributed in heaps, ready to spead, page 24; and the hot- beds and forcing-frames will require constant attention, Cover them up warm in cold nights, and give additional air as the season progresses, to prevent the plants growing weak, taking care to regulate the heat as directed for the different kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are to be put down this month, either for forcing or forwarding vegetables, they should be attended to in time, as directed. In order to afford time for cultivating the soil as the weather moderates, the gardener should proceed with his business of pruning and cleaning fruit trees, shrubs, &c., at all opportunities ; and if any removal be necessary, or fresh trees, shrubs, vines, &c., are required, these things should be obtained and planted this month, if possible. Begin the work of the kitchen garden as soon as the earth can be brought into good condition, and transplant hardy Lettuce plants, 73; dress Artichoke beds, 33; Asparagus, 37; Rhu- barb, 91; Sea-Kale, 95; and prepare to make new planta- tions of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 39; Beet seed, 44; Rape, 47; plant Cauliflower plants under hand- glasses, 51 and 120; sow Cabbage seed, 55 and 112; Car- rot, 59; Celery, 60; plant Chives, 66 ; Cucumber, im frames, 121; sow Egg-plant seed, 66; plant Horse-radish, 69; Leck, 152 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 71; Lettuce, 72; plant Melon seed in hot-beds, 132; sow Onion, 78; Parsley, 80; Parsnip, 81; Pepper, 82; plant Peas, 83; Potatoes, in frames, 133; sow Radish seed, 88 and 134; plant Rocambole, 89; Rhubarb, 90; Sea-Kale, 95; Skir- ret, 97; sow Spinach seed, 99; Tomato, 101 and 112; Turnip seed, 104; prepare to make Hop plantations, 139; sow Herb seed, 106 to 108. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with the hardiest kinds; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c., to produce greens early for the table. In the course of this month, every thing should be forwarded relative to the cul- tivation and preparation of the ground, by levelling such as may have lain in ridges through the winter, and by manuring and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing and planting it early in next month. In the event of unfavourable weather in March, the plant- ing of some of the articles above enumerated may be de- layed until the early part of April; but it should be borne in mind that if the hardiest kinds can be planted early, more time will be afforded to other important business, as the séa- son progresses, APRIL. “The state of the wind augurs rain, as they say, When restless in changes, now this, now that way, Or hollow, comes whistling plaintively by, The rain it betokens is probably nigh.” Tuis is certainly the most important month in the year for gardening operations. Finish as early as possible the planting of esculents for seed, and see that all plants of the same genus are remote from each other, or they will adul- terate. All the soil of a garden should be dug or ploughed this month if possible, and some of the early crops sown last month will require hoeing and weeding. Great care should be taken to have good sound seed, as MONTHLY CALENDAR. 153 this is a matter of the utmost importance, and for want of which, many are disappointed in their principal crops when too late to sow again. It is also a material consideration to have the best varieties both of seed and plants of their re- spective kinds. See page 25. If not done last month, make plantations of Artichokes, 31; Asparagus, 35; Beans, Vicia faba, 39; towards the end of the month, plant Beans, Phaseolus, 41 and 42; Beet seed, 44; sow late kinds of Broccoli seed, 48; not Cape Broccoli until May; seed of Cabbage for summer use, 55; Cardoon, 58; Carrot, 69; Celery, 60; sow Cress seed, 64; plant Cu- cumber in frames, 124; sow Endive, 68; plant Horse Radish, 69; Indian Corn, 70; Jerusalem Artichokes, 70; sow Leek seed, 71; Lettuce seed, 72; plant Melon in hot-beds, 132; sow Mustard seed, 76; plant Nasturtium, 76; sow Onion seed, 78; Parsley, 80; Parsnip, 81; plant Peas, 83; Pota- toes, 85; Sweet Potatoes, 86; sow Radish seed, 88; plant Rocambole, 89; Rhubarb, 90; Salsify, 92; Scorzonera, 93 ; Sea Kale, 94; sow Skirret, 97; Spinach, 99; Tomato, 101, 112, and 136; Turnip seed, 104; Turnip-rooted Cabbage in varieties, 56; make Hop plantations, 139. Sow the seed of Angelica, Anise, Basil, Burnet, Boreage, Caraway, Chervil, Clary, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Pot Marigold, Sweet Marjoram, Patience, Dock, Sorrel, Summer Savory, Small- age, Thyme, Bene, Boneset, Catnep, Celandine, Saffron, and such other Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs as may be required. Also separate and transplant all kinds of Pe- rennial Herb roots, such as Mint, Pennyroyal, Sage, Winter Savory, Tarragon, and Medicinal Herbs in general, as de- scribed page 106 to 108. If not done last month, attend to the spring dressing of Artichoke beds, 33; Asparagus, 37; Rhubarb, 91; Sea Kale, 95. Besides the work of sowing and planting the various kinds of seed above enumerated, all the strongest plants of Cab- bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the hot- beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds in 154 MONTHLY CALENDAR. the open garden. Attend to such other business in this de- partment as may have been left undone last month, and see that the garden be kept neat and free from weeds. MAY. “Much dew on the grass portends, as all say, — That day which succeeds will be a clear day ; But when no dew moistens the grass on the plain, Kind Heaven requites it by sending it rain.” As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit trees, and sow ashes over the ground. Attend to plantations of Cabbages, Cauliflower, &c.; hoe them frequently, and draw earth to their stems; look out for and destroy grub worms, caterpillars, and other insects, 18 to 21; thin out the early plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c., and de- stroy weeds, to prevent their seeding the ground. Plant and sow such kinds of seed as were omitted last month; the sowing of Celery, Leek, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Salsify seed, &c., should be attended to without farther delay. Transplant Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomato, Ege-plants, &c., from the hot-beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 41 and 42; Beet, 44; Borecole, 46; Brussels Sprout seed, 47; Cape Broccoli, 49; Cauliflower, 53; Cabbage, 55 and 56; Car- rot, 59; Cress, 64; plant Cucumber, 65; sow Endive, 68; plant Indian Corn, 70; Melon, 74; Water Melon, 75; sow Mustard seed, 76; plant Nasturtium, 76; Okra, 77; Pepper, 82; Peas, 83; Potatoes, 85; Potatoes, Sweet, 86; Pumpkins, 87; sow Radish seed, 88; Squash, 100; Tomato, 101; early in this month finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic, Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 106 to 108. Some of the old hot-beds may be spawned for Mushrooms, but it is best to form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week, MONTHLY CALENDAR. 155 and gather the produce; clear them of weeds and wet litter, and put a little dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare fresh spawn, &c., 125 to 130. Watering will now frequently be required for newly planted _ vegetables, both at the time of transplanting, and occasion- ally afterward, in dry weather, until the roots are established in the soil. Likewise seed-beds recently sown, till the young plants become vigorous. ‘Weeding must be very diligently attended to, both by hand aud hoe; for as weeds grow luxuriantly, it is necessary to eradicate them before they spread too far, as, by neglect, they will not only impede the growth, but eventually smother the plants. Toward the end of the month, top such of the English Broad Beans as may be in blossom, to promote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity. [See page 40.] Those who have young families should not fail sowing some Bene-plant seed, as the plant, by being steeped in a glass of water, produces a glutinous liquid, which is an effi- cacious remedy for the summer complaint. It may be sown in drills and managed the same as salad or Parsley. [See Herbs, 107.] JUNE. “The sky dress’d in placid soft redness at night Portends the next day will be cloudless and bright ; A fierce angry redness that shoots up at morn, And tinges the clouds, is a token of storm.” Tue principal sowing seasons for general crops may be considered as past, but there are many kinds of seed which may be sown this month; and the gardener should ascertain the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far ad- vanced. By this time some of the early crops will be cleared off, and such ground as was manured for the early crops of 156 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c., will be excellent for late Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing crops, and clean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from running to seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be bene- ficial. Use means to destroy insects; read pages 18 to 21 for information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 41 and 42; Beet seed, 44. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cau- liflower, Cabbage, &c., failed last month, sow again early this month. Water the beds frequently, and sow tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recommended, page 19. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c., for summer use; transplant Cardoons, 58; sow Carrot seed in drills, 59; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 65; sow Endive, 68; plant Indian Corn, 70; transplant Leeks, 71; Okra seed may be planted early in this month, 77; plant Peas, if dry weather, soak them five or six hours in water, 83; plant Potatoes, 85; Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; Pumpkin seed, 87 ; sow summer Radish seed, 89; plant Squash, 100. As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for winter use, 108. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have reached the top, nip off the tops to strengthen the stems, 140. Hoe between the Artichokes, and in order to have the main top fruit attain its full size, detach the small suckers, or lateral heads. [See page 34.] Early Cauliflowers, which will now be progressing toward maturity, must be watered in dry weather; and as the heads begin to exhibit themselves, break down some of the large leaves over them to protect them from the rays of the sun, and from rain, 52. Keep Asparagus clear of weeds, and also Onions; and give those beds that are to stand for ripening, a final thin- ning, as suggested in page 78. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 157 JULY. “When flowers toward evening their blossoms expana, ‘And bask in the sunbeams, there’s no rain at hand ; But when they close up as if conscious of fear, They augur its coming—it no doubt is near.” Tuis is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage, Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper plants, &c., for full autumn crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants beforehand, in order that they may be ready to catch the rain. Leeks may be transplanted in dry weather, by first steeping the roots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there be the least moisture in the ground when it is freshly turned over. As grub-worms are apt to devour Cabbage plants early in this month, those persons anxious to transplant any quantity, may dip the roots in fish oil, and then dry them in plaster of Paris, which will not only annoy the worms, but prove bene- ficial as manures, 19 and 20. If transplanting in general be delayed to the middle of the month, grub-worms will be harmless, 55. If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seed may produce good roots by autumn, if planted early in the month; plant Beans, 41; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Collards, 57; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 66; sow Endive seed, and transplant the furmer sowing, 68; if Peas be planted now, they should be soaked in soft water five or six hours, 83; Potatoes may be planted early in this month, 85; and Pumpkins, if not done last month, 87. Sow summer Radish seed im drills, 89; sow Turnip-rooted Cabbage seed, in varieties, 56; this is a good season for Ruta Baga, or Rus- sian Turnip, 105; and the common kinds of Turnip seed may be sown toward the end of this month, 104. Attend. to plantations of Hops, 140; whatever herbs may be required for winter use, should be cut off and dried as they come into flower; Burnet, Chervil, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Sweet Mar- joram, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter and Summer Savory, may all be cut this month, 106 to 108. 14 158 MONTHLY CALENDAR. \ The business of sowing and transplanting will be more successful if done in moist or showery weather, or on the approach of rain, or immediately after, especially for preca- rious seed, and young seedling plants. Attend to the Mush- room beds, and give light waterings, or expose them to warm moderate showers occasionally, 130. AUGUST. “When clouds slow dissolve, as if turned into air, And yanish from sight, the next day will be fair; But when, in succession, they darker appear, With watery aspect, then know rain is near.” Tue planting season being nearly over, now is the time to hoe around the plants and clear the ground of weeds and stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for fall Tur- nips, Spinach, Shallots, Fetticus, &c. As the ground for the latter crops may require manure, it will be greatly improved if ploughed before the manure is drawn on, which should be afterward spread and ploughed under. ’ Plant Beans for picklers, 41; sow Cabbage seed for Col- lards, 57; earth up Cardoons, 58; do. Celery, 62; sow Corn Salad, or Fetticus seed, 63; the early kinds of Cucumber may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 66; transplant Endive, and prepare to blanch the early plantings, 68; sow Lettuce for autumn use, 73 and 125; sow Onion seed to stand the winter, 78; Peas may be planted thus late, if desired, 83; sow summer Radish seed, 89; prepare for planting Shallots by the end of this month, 97; sow Turnip seed for full crops, 104; attend to such herbs as were not gathered last month ; cut off and dry Sage, and other late herbs, 106 to 108. Hops will be ripe this month ; choose a dry season for gathering them, and attend to them as direct- ed, page 140; this is a good season for preparing to make Mushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars, or pits; if the mate- MONTHLY CALENDAR. 159 tials be gathered this month, indigenous spawn may be col- lected next, but those that can procure spawn may make the beds at any time, or they may pursue Mr. Nichol’s plan, 128. Artichokes will be in perfection this month, and should be cut for use as soon as the scales of the head expand, and before they open in the heart for flowering; and as you cut them, break down the stems to promote the growth of root offsets, 34. In dry weather hoe and plough between such vegetables as may have been planted in rows, which will not only destroy weeds, but encourage the growth of the plants. Frequent hoeing in dry weather will be more beneficial than the watering-pot. Early sown Onions, being now of mature growth, and full bulbed, should be pulled up in dry qveather and exposed to the sun to ripen; frequently turning them, that they may harden equally for keeping; then clear them from the gross part of the stalks, and loose outer skins, earth, &c., and re- move them to a place of shelter, 78. Continue to gather seed of all kinds as they ripen, and prepare vacant ground for late crops; such as Spinach, Shal- lot, Onion, Fetticus, &c., 98. SEPTEMBER. “Tight vapours o'er valleys and rivers at night, Foretokens the next day salubrious and bright ; Especially when they at morning appear To rise up the hill sides, and vanish in air.” AuTHovcH the sowing season is nearly over, the crops on the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still be transplanted for winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celery as it pro- gresses in growth. Tie up Endive plants for blanching, 68 ; sow Rape, 47; Cauliflower seed, 51; Cabbage, 54; Com 160 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Salad, or Fetticus, 63; Cress, Rape, &c., every ten days, for a salad, 64; sow Mustard, for the same purpose, 76; sow Lettuce, 73 and 125; Onion, to stand the winter, 78 ; Radish, for fall use, 89; plant Shallots, 97; sow Spinach seed every week or ten days, 98; Turnips will sometimes come to ma- turity if the seed be sown the early part of this month, and those sown last month will need hoeing as they progress im growth, 104. Continue to gather, dry, and pack Hops as they ripen, 140; also all Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 108; this is a good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situa- tions; they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial spawn, as may be most convenient. [Tor directions to pre- serve spawn, &c., see pages 126 and 127.| Toward the end of this month, or early in the next, isa good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants, by parting the roots, but it should be done in cloudy or wet weather ; at the same time, such herbs as were raised from seed sown in the spring, may be transplanted into separate beds or borders, 106 to 108. In this month must be finished all the principal sowings and plantings necessary this year; on this account such ground as is intended for principal crops next year, should be well manured previous to planting it. [See Spinach, 98.] Cucumber vines should be looked over, and the fruit gathered as it becomes fit for pickling, as a very slight frost will destroy Cucumbers, 66. MONTHLY CALENDAR. - 163 OCTOBER. “ A warm, open winter doth often succeed A hot and dry summer, by all ’tis agreed ; A hard, frosty winter its rigour retains, And holds gentle spring in its cold icy chains.” Tue principal winter crops being planted, it will be neces- sary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of the fall crops. Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and earth up Celery; do it in dry weather, and not even while the dew is on it, 62. Toward the end of the month, frames must be provided for the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cabbage and Cauliflower plants as were raised from seed sown last month. Begin to dig and secure all kinds of vegetables soon enough to get the whole placed away be- fore the end of the next month. Take up Potatoes and bury them in pits, so as to secure them from wet and frost, or put them in a warm cellar. Proceed to take up other roots; begin with the most tender kinds, or do that which is re- quired to be done in dry weather, while it is so. Collect Pumpkins and winter Squashes, and expose them to the wind and air on a dry bench, or ledge, before they are stowed. away. Dig up Beets, and secure them in pits, or pack them _ in sand in a cellar. Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, should now have a thorough cleaning and dressing; by destroying all weeds, cutting away all decayed stalks, digging between such plants as will admit of it, and spreading earth over others, as sug- gested, page 108. Tie up full-crown plants of Endive every week in dry weather, for blanching in succession, as required, 68. Horse-radish may now be dug for use as wanted, by trenching along each row to the bottom of the upright roots, leaving the old stools for future production, 69. Jerusalem Artichokes may be dug up for use, or to preserve for winter consumption, 71. 14* 162 MONTHLY CALENDAR, NOVEMBER. “When nuts are but few, and they small and hollow, A cold and wet harvest, there’s no doubt, will follow ; But when they are plenty, and good, ’tis agreed, A rich, golden harvest is sure to succeed.” Ewnpeavour to avoid having your garden products frozen fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them; in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Skirret, Salsify, and other hardy roots as will be required for winter use, and pack them close together in pits; give them a coat of straw, and afterward heap on as much earth as will keep out the frost, or stow them in a cellar. Toward the end of the month, Turnips may be secured in the same way. Take up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close together against a ridge,.which should be previously formed in a straight line, about a foot above the level of the surface; throw up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them about an inch, and then plant row after row as close and upright as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between every row to keep the roots and stalks from touching each other. The whole being covered up with earth, some long dung or litter may be thrown over it, sufficient to keep out the frost ; and by heaping a good layer of manure against the last row of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in the winter for use. Some erect a board shed over to protect it from wet; a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. Cabbage must be taken up and laid in rows against a ridge, so as to form a square, compact, close-growing bed, the roots and stems being buried up to the lower leaves of the Cabbages. The beds may afterward be covered with straw, or a temporary shed may be erected over them. Cabbage will keep for some months in a cellar, if connected with their roots. For the management of Broccoli and Cauliflower, see articles, pages 48, 51, and 120. Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and Col- lards, may be taken up and stowed away like Cabbages. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 163 Cardoons may be laid in like Celery, or preserved in sand in acellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the lower leaves. If the last row be protected from frost by a coat of stable dung, they can be taken out when required for use. Corn Salad, Spinach, and Lettuce, may be protected by a covering of straw, salt hay, or cedar brush. For the man- agement of Artichoke beds, see page 32; Asparagus, 37; Rhubarb 91; Sea-Kale, 95. Dig up roots of Horse-radish in the manner recommended last month, to preserve in sand or pits, for use when the ground is frozen or ice-bound. Do the like by Jerusalem Artichokes, which are now in their full perfection. At the same time take up as many Parsnips and other hardy roots, as will be required for use the next three months. Spread short horse dung over the Onions that were sown in August and September, which will protect them through the winter. DECEMBER. “ A wet, sultry summer, prognostics affirm, A boist’rous autumn will bring in its turn ; A cold, sour autumn and summer portend A winter severe from beginning to end.” Ir all was not done as directed last month, there is no time to be lost. Every thing that needs protection should now be attended to, and if the weather continues open, some of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to receive the benefit of winter frosts. Collect all your Pea-sticks and Bean-poles together, and place them under cover to prevent _their rotting. Turn over compost heaps, and provide manure for another year. ! Those who are desirous of having Cucumbers or Melons early in the ensuing spring, and have not the convenience 164 MONTHLY CALENDAR. for forcing them in the ordinary way, may dig a few grass sods or turfs, before it freezes hard, and stow them away out of the reach of frost, through the winter. These being placed on the top of a hot-bed, in March, or early in April, with the grass downward, and Cucumber or Melon seed planted in the earthy part thereof, early plants may be pro- duced, which can be removed with the turfs without dis- turbing their growth, and cultivated either on the ridge sys- tem, as recommended in page 132, or in the open ground, provided they can be kept growing in frames until settled warm weather. This is also an excellent plan in early forcing, as it saves trouble as well as risk in transplanting seedling plants into the fruiting beds. If not done last month, dress your Artichoke beds, and cover them as recommended in page 32. Defend Mushroom beds with dry straw, or long stable litter, and cover such as may be exposed, with mats, as security against cold. In all moderate weather during the winter, give air to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in frames, being careful to cover them every night with mats, boards, litter, &c., as necessity may require. As the year is drawing to a close, I would solicit the gar- dener to review the results of his practice throughout the past season, that he may be able to judge how to act for the future. In sketching a plan of his garden for the next year, he ought to make provision for a full supply of such vegetables as are best calculated to sell, and yield a fair profit; with this object in view, I would suggest that he take a retrospective view of his previous management, and also of the directions ' given in the preceding chapter relative to the preparation of the soil, by ploughing, trenching, pulverizing, manuring, &c., as circumstances may require; bearing in mind, that although, clayey soils may be benefited by fall ridging, light sandy ground should lay flat through the winter. co ll sia 2 YOUNG GARDENER’S ASSISTANT. PART II. FLOWER DEPARTMENT. “1 es Yt Ly i i CONTENTS. OBSERVATIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. On laying out the ground.—Adaptation of each species page. of plants to its peculiar element, - - . a 2h Suggestions for forming a rockery to accommodate plants which originated in mountainous districts, - - 14 The cultivation of annual flowers adapted to Ladies.— In sowing of seed, transplanting, watering, and training plants, by tying them to neat poles or rods, or leading them over trellis-work, &c.—Attention directed to grass-walks, lawns, gravel-walks, box- edgings, decayed plants, insects, &c.,_ - - - 15 INTRODUCTION TO THE CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. Attention directed to the study of Flowers, with a view to their successful cultivation—Observations on the germination of seed in different climates.— Estimates respecting annual flowers as regards their growth, time of blossoming, &c., - - - 16 A Catalogue of Annual Flower Seed, = ils 4S - 18 Suggestions for providing bulbous, tuberous, and peren- nial plants, including Dahlias, &c., for early plant- ing.—Also, garden implements, labels, suitable soil, compost, &c., - - - - - - 22 Directions for sowing flower seed in borders, flower- pots, beds, and circles, with notes illustrative of the different plans, = = = - - Pres; Method of securing fragrance to Micnonette, - - 26 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS TO THE CATALOGUE OF BIEN= NIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEED. On the circulation of the sap in roots and stalks of plants, 28 Frequent renewals of the roots of perennial plants recommended, - 2 - = - - - 29 A Catalogue of Biennial and Perennial Flower seed, - 30 CONTENTS. Directions for cultivating biennial and perennial flow- page, ers from seed, offsets, layers, cuttings, &c.—Also, for propagating green-house plants, and for arrang- ing intermixed flowers to advantage, illustrated by notes and annotations, - - - - - Introduction to the Catalogue of Flowering and Orna- mental Shrubs.—Observations on the adaptation of dwarf shrubs for hedges to a flower garden, also on training creepers or climbers to the best advantage, A Catalogue of Dwarf Patel and Ornamental SInmnibe, - - - - A Catalogue of Climbing onmleutat’ Srentie cs - Directions for the propagation of Ornamental Shrubs by various methods, - E : = = - Directions for transplanting, pruning, and training Orna- mental Shrubs, - - - - - - - Beauties or Aprit anp May—Showing the order of the flower tribe throughout the summer season, with poetic pieces illustrative of the different genera, 33 38 39 45 49 53 54 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTED PLANTS. On the introduction and pop liplicatien of the above de- scription of plants, - = = - Bulbous and Tuberous Roots deavede Sot suited to bulbous roots in general, - - - - - Directions for forming the beds to contain bulbous and tuberous roots, also for preserving the bulbs and tubers when in a dormant state, - - - - BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTED PLANTS, 63 64 65 Practical directions for the cultivation of which will be found under each head. Amaryllis, —- - - 67|\lxias, — - - - - Anemone and Ranuncu- Jonquil, - - - - lus, - - - - 68||Lachenalias, - - - Crocus, in numerous vari- Lilies, - - - - ties, - - - - 69/|| Narcissus, - = : Crown Imperial, - - 69|/Ornithogalum, or Star of Colchicum, - - - 70|| Bethlehem, - - Cyclamen, - - - 70||Oxalis, - - . : Double Dahlia, - - 70||Peony, - - - : Gladiolus, or Sword Lily, 79!Tulip, - - - = Hyacinth, - - - 81||Tuberose,_— - - - Iris, or Flower de Enea, 82\' Tiger Flower, . - CONTENTS. 19.¢ OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN POTS AND GLASSES. Caution against over-watering bulbous plants at parti- pase. cular seasons, - - - - - - - 94 On the choice of roots for cultivation in a green-house or lightroom, - - - - - - - 95 OBSERVATIONS ON THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF GREEN- HOUSE PLANTS. The peculiarities of exotic plants defined, - 3 By OY Brief directions for the management of green-house plants, - - - - = a - 98 Hints furnished by an amateur for the keeping of plants in rooms, - - 2 2 - 99 An attempt to prove that Light, Heat, Air, and Moisture are essential to the preservation of plants, and that water should be applied in proportion as heat and air are attainable, - - - - - - 100 Suggestions for providing suitable compost, to be used in re-potting the various species of plants, - 2 hOk Catalogue of Chrysanthemums, with directions for their cultivation, - = - - = 2 : - 102 Introduction to the Catalogue of Green-house Plants, wherein the reader’s attention is directed to vari- ous subjects, = - . - - - - 103 Descriptive catalogue of the most esteemed species of exotic plants, - - = - - - - 104 OUTLINE OF THE FIRST PRINCIPLES OF HOTICULTURE, ETC., Which embraces much general information under the following heads : I. General nature of VIII. Fruit, - - - 131 Plants, - - 120|| IX. Seed, - - = 133 II. Root, - - - 121 X. Sap, - - - 134 III. Stem, - - 123) XI. Air and Light, - 135 IV. Leaf-Buds, - - 124] XII. Perspiration, = ey V. Leaves, - - 127|| XIII. Cuttings, - 20.138 VI. Flowers, - - 128)| XIV. Scions, - - 139 VII. Sexes, - - 130|| XV. Transplantation, - 140 x CONTENTS. MONTHLY CALENDAR. January.—Reasons given why temperance in the use page, of water should be observed in the cultivation of plants during the winter season.—Directions for regulating the ‘temperature of the room in which plants are kept—A brick flue recommended for the purpose of heating a small green-house, &c., - Frsruary— Directions for cultivating Camellias or Ja- pan Roses Also, for the management of such bul- bons roots as may be in progress of blooming. — Several perennial plants enumerated, which require attention this month—lInformation given how to make a hot-bed for the purpose of raising early lants, - - - - - - - - Makrcu—The Business of this month consists in attend- ing to Monthly Roses, Primroses, Polyanthus, Au- riculas, English Spring Flowers, Schizanthus, &c. —In sowing in hot-beds the seed of Dahlia, Mig- nonette, Primula, and such other species as are designated thus § and thus ft in the Catalogues, pages 18 and 30.—The roots of Dahlia, Amaryllis, Gladiolus, Tiger lower, Tuberose, ce , may be planted in hot: beds, to feed them in growth, - Aprit.—Recommendations on various subjects—as, at- tention to box edgings, gravel-walks, flowering shrubs, herbaceous plants, bulbous rooted plants, Dahlia roots, green-house plants, &c.—It is sug- gested to cultivate all the ground of the garden this month, if possible, and to sow all the different spe- cles Of seed that the season will admit of, - * May.—As the warm weather progresses, the gardener is directed to conquer the various kinds of insects— provide awnings for the protection of choice llowers—to set out green-house plants—and to in- crease their number by propagation from cuttings, suckers, seed, &c., as adverted to in the Calendar, JuNE.—It is recut mended to water green-house plants frequently in dry, warm weather, to shade Hydran- geas, Daisies, Polyanthus, Primulas, &c., from the noonday sun—to remove decayed plants, and to replace them with vigorous ones from the nursery * bed—to transplant annual flower plants, Dahlias, &c., - - - 3 é 3 z = - 142 143 146 148 149 151 CONTENTS. Juty.—The gardener is reminded that this is the proper time for pruning Garden Roses, and other plants— Also, for budding Orange and Lemon trees—for laying Carnations, Pinks, Pansies, Running Verbe- nas, &c., with a view to their propagation—for destroying weeds, to prevent their seeding in the ground, &c., - - - - - - - Aveust.—Attention is directed to green-house plants, which will need watering often—and toward the end of the month they will require to be replen- ished with fresh compost, and re-potted—Also, to the budding of Orange and Lemon trees, if not done last month, - 2 : - - - - SEPTEMBER.—It is suggested to take up such tender and half-hardy plants as were placed in the earth of the flower beds in the spring, with a view to their being pruned and re-potted.—Also, to plant such bulbous roots as are described in the Calendar, < - Octoser.—In this month the florist is reminded of the importance of housing all tender exotic plants, ten- der bulbous and tuberous roots, &c.—Also, to the planting of the hardy species of bulbous roots, in flower beds, before the approach of severe frost, - Novemser.— During the continuance of mild weather, it is recommended to give air at all opportunities to green-house plants——Also, to place half-hardy plants in frames, and cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, or light litter, with a view to their preservation through the winter, - - - - Decemeper.—Constant care and attention is recommend- ed to the situation of green-houses or rooms in which plants are kept, which should be so secure as to prevent the intrusion of cold air, or the es- cape of warm air in the night season, - © - - Tue MarrimoniaL GarpEn, wherein the tempers and dispositions of the mind are compared to plants, which require careful cultivation, - - - Page. 153 154 155 156 157 159 160 OBSERVATIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. Previous to forming a flower garden, the ground should be made mellow and rich, by being well pulverized, manured, and prepared in every respect as if intended for a kitchen - garden. A flower garden should be protected from cold, cutting winds by close fences, or plantations of shrubs, form- ing a close and compact hedge, which should be neatly trim- med every year. Generally speaking, a flower garden should not be on a large scale, and the beds or borders should not in any part be broader than the cultivator can reach, without treading on them: the shape and number of the beds must be determined by the quantity of the ground, and the taste of the person laying out the garden. Much of the beauty of a pleasure garden depends on the manner in which it is laid out; a great variety of figures may be indulged in for the flower beds. Some choose oval or circular forms, others squares, triangles, hearts, diamonds, &c., intersected with winding grass paths and gravel walks. In the design of an ornamental garden, nature, however, should be imitated as closely as practicable, not only in the formation and regulation of the flower beds, but in the adap- tation of each species to its peculiar element, soil, and situ- ation, taking into consideration, that the inmates of a garden, constituting as they do a mingled group, collected from all the different climates and soils of the vegetable creation, re- quire each its most essential aliment, to promote a luxuriant growth. Zz 14 OBSERVATIONS GN THE FLOWER GARDEN. Neatness should be the prevailing characteristic of a flower garden, which should be so situated as to form an ornamental appendage to the house; and, where circumstances will admit, placed before the windows exposed to a southern or south- eastern aspect. The principle on which it is laid out, ought to be that of exhibiting a variety of colour and form, so blended as to produce one beautiful whole. In a small flower garden, viewed from the windows of a house, this effect is best pro- duced by beds, or borders, formed side by side, and parallel to the windows whence they are seen, as in that position the colours show to the best advantage. In a retired part of the garden, a rustic seat may be formed, over and around which grape vines, or honeysuckles, and other sweet and ornamental creepers and climbers, may be trained on trellises, which will afford a pleasant rural retreat. In extensive pleasure grounds a rockery, formed of rough stone, and rich light soil, may be erected in imitation of a mountain, on which may be cultivated various plants natives of mountainous districts, and such indigenous plants as are calculated for the situation ; also herbaceous plants, procum- bent and trailing, such as Mesembryanthemums, Climbing Cordydalis, the various species of Silene or Catch Fly, Gyp- sophila, Lotus, Ricota or Syrian Honesty, Godetia, &c. These being interspersed with dwarf plants of different species, as Mountain Lychnis, Violets, Daisies, &c., and so arranged as to cover a great proportion of the rocky surface, must ne- cessarily produce a very pleasing effect. Although the greatest display is produced by a general flower garden, that is, by cultivating such a variety in one bed or border as will insure an almost constant blooming ; yet bulbous rooted plants, though essential to the perféction of the flower garden, lose something of their peculiar beauty when not cultivated by themselves. The extensive variety of bul- bous roots furnishes means for the formation of a garden, the beauty of which, arising from an intermixture of every variety of form and colour, would well repay the trouble of ‘ OBSERVATIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. 15 cultivation, particularly, as by a judicious selection and man- agement, a succession of bloom may be kept up for some length of time. As, however, bulbous flowers lose their richest tints about the time that Annuals begin to display their beauty, there can be no well-founded objection to the latter being transplanted into the bulbous beds, so. that the opening blos- soms of the Annuals may fill the place of those just withered, and continue to supply the flower-beds with all the gayety and splendour of the floral kingdom. The cultivation of Annual Flowers is a delightful employ- ment, and well adapted to the amusement of a lady, who, with the assistance of a labourer to prepare the ground, may turn a barren waste into a beauteous flower garden with her own hands. Sowing the seed, transplanting, watering, and train- ing the plants, tying them to sticks as props, leading them over trellis-work, and gathering their seed, are all suitable feminine occupations, and from their affording motives for exercise in the open air, they contribute greatly to health and tranquillity of mind. ; But the taste ofthe florist will be exercised to little pur- pose, in the selection of Flowers, if strict attention is not paid to the general state of the garden. If there are lawns or grass walks, they should be frequently trimmed, and more frequently mowed and rolled, to prevent the grass from inter- fering with the flower-beds, and to give the whole a neat, regu- lar, carpet-like appearance. If there are gravel walks, they should be frequently cleaned, replenished with fresh gravel, and rolled. Box, and other edgings, should be kept clear of weeds, and neatly trimmed every spring. Decayed plants should be removed, and replaced by vigorous ones from the nursery bed. Tall flowering plants must be supported by neat poles or rods; and alldead stalks and leaves from decayed flowers must be frequently removed. In the summer season, all kinds of insects must be timely destroyed, and in the evenings of warm days, the flowers will require frequent watering. 16 INTRODUCTION TO THE CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. To raise your flowers, various arts combine ; Study these well, and fancy’s flight decline. If you would have a vivid, vigorous breed Of every kind, examine well the seed : Learn to what ELEmEnTs your plants belong, What is their constitution, weak or strong ; Be their physician, careful of their lives, And see that every species daily thrives ; These love much Arr, these on much Hear rely, These, without genial Morsrure, droop and die. Supply the wants of each, and they will pay For all your care through each succeeding day. Wit a view to render this work more generally useful and interesting, a classification and definition of the various species and varieties embraced in the annexed Catalogue, are attempted to be given. Precision, however, in the per- formance of this task is impracticable, as it must be evident that the vegetable family, having been collected from every variety of climate and soil, will differ as to height, colour, time of blossoming, and in many other essential pomts, when cultivated out of their natural ELemenr. Some seed germinate in two or three days after having been deposited in the earth; others will not exhibit signs of vegetation in as many weeks. These and other distinguish- ing features arise, in a great measure, from their having originated in various soils and climates. Natives of cool or temperate climates and moist soils, are generally tardy in germinating when cultivated in a warm climate and dry soil, for want of a due share of their most essential aliment, MorsturE; and natives of warm climates and light soils require artificial culture in cool seasons and unpropitious climates, in order to their being accommodated with their i ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. natural and most important aliment, Hear. Aur also is a more necessary aliment to some species than to others, but these three elements collectively, constitute the food of plants in general. It may also be observed that the adaptation of plants to a soil congenial to them is of the utmost import- ance; as plants will not thrive well when improper food is absorbed by their roots. Under favourable circumstances, annuals, im general, will produce their flower buds within two months from the period of sowing the seed. Some species, soon after exhibiting their brilliant blossoms and ripening their seed, disappear, while others embellish the borders with a succession of flow- ers for two or three months. An assortment of seed judi- ciously selected, and sown in due season, will afford amuse- ment to the cultivator the greater part of a summer, and yield seed for the propagation of the species in succeeding years, if gathered when ripe, and carefully preserved. Annual plants will grow from one to four feet in height, in one uniform soil and situation ; but as these are diversified in almost every garden, no correct conclusion can be drawn in this particular; an attempt, however, has been made in the annexed Catalogue, to describe the various species as nearly as possible, which may serve as a guide to the gardener in planting ; the most dwarfish being adapted to the front or outer edge of the borders, and others in regular gradation. Those species marked thus § are tender. Those marked thus * should be sown in the spot where they are intended to blossom, as they are apt to droop and die by being trans- planted. A feware marked thus 7. These, though cultivated as annuals, from their facilities in blossoming and ripening their seed the first season, are in reality perennial, as are also some other varieties from warm climates, usually denominated annuals ; but as such could not be cultivated at all by those who have no means of protecting their plants during our severe winters, they may with great propriety be treated as tender annuals, by sowing the seed every spring. x 18 A CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. Graines de fi § Denotes tender. * Peren + Ageratum, Mexican, blue, Alkekengi, or Kite Flower, lilac, + Alyssum, Sweet, white, § Amaranthus, three-coloured, * Argemone, or Prickly Poppy, yel- low, cream-coloured, and white, Aster, Chinese and German, white, red, striped, purple, &c., § Balsams ; three species and nume- rous varieties, scarlet, striped, pur- ple, crimson, white, &c. § Bartonia, the Golden, Bladder Ketmia, buff, dark centre, Blue Bottle, Great, Blue Bottle, Small, Blumenbachia, white, § Browallia, or Amethyst, blue, white, § Cacalia, scarlet, Calliopsis 5 Drummond’s Coreopsis, Calandrina, Annual, crimson, + Calandrina. rose and purple tinged, * Candytuft, white and purple, * Catch Fly, purple and red, * Catch Fly, dwarf pink, spotted, &c., * Caterpillars, Hedge-hogs, & Snails, curious, Centaurea, or pink Sultan, China Pink, of every shade, § Cleome, rose-coloured, white, &c., Chrysanthemum, white, yellow, and three-coloured, Clarkia, rose, purple, white, &c., § Clintonia, elegant blue, § Cockscomb, crimson and yellow, § Collinsia, lilac, white, two-coloured, +Commelina. blue-flowering, * Convolvulus, dwarf variegated, &c., Coreopsis, Golden, dark centre, § Cotton Plant, cream, Crotalaria, purple, yellow, and white, Cuphea, Mexican, scarlet, variegated, + Dahlia, Mexican, various, eueres annuelles. nial. * Difficult to transplant. Feet High. Ageratum Mexicana, 1to2 Atropa physaloides, 3 to 4 Alyssum maritima, 1 Amaranthus tricolor, 2 to3 Argemone, Mexicana, grandi- flora, ochrolenca, etc., 2to4 Aster, Chinensis, var. alia, rubra, striata, purpurea, ete., 1to2 Balsamina hortensis, Mastersia- na, cornuta, coccinea, striata, purpurea, alba, etc., 1 to2 Bartonia aurea, 2to 3 Hibiscus trionwm, 1 to2 Centaurea cyanus, major, 3 to4 Centaurea cyanus, minor, 1to2 Blumenbachia insignis, under 1 Browallia elata, alba, ete., 1 to2 Cacalia coccinea, 1to2 Calliopsis Drummond, 2to3 Calandrina, speciosa, etc., 1to2 Calandrina. discolor, etc., 2to3 Theris alba, purpurea, etc., 1 Silene purpurea, muscipula, etc. 2 to3 Silene Armeria, picta, etc.; 1to2 Medicago circinnata, intertexta, scutellata, ete., 1to2 Centaurea Americana, 2to3 Dianthus, Chinensis, annuus, | to 2 Cleome rosea, spinoca, etc., 2to3 Chrysanthemum coronarium, alba, lutea, tricolor, etc., 2to3 Clarkia elegans, pulchella, etc., 1 to2 Clintonia elegans, 1to2 Celocia cristata, lutea, 2to3 Collinsia hetrophilla, bicolor, 2to3 Commelina calestis, ] Convolvulus minor, bicolor, efc. 1 to 2 Calliopsis tinctoria, 2to3 Gossypiwm herbacewm, 3 to4 Crotalaria verrucosa, étc., 1 to 2 Cuphea lanceolata, silenoides, 1to2 Dahlia swperflua, 3 to 6 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. § Denotes tender. Devil in the Bush, or Love in a Mist, blue, yellow, purple, white, &c., Dwarf Love in a Mist, various, + Dew Plant, crimson, + Didiscus, azure blue, § Egg-plant, white, for ornament, Erissimum, orange, + Escholtzia, or Chryseis, yellow, red, and orange, Eternal Flower, yellow, purple, and white, Euphorbia; variegated, * Evening Primrose, dwarf annual, white, yellow, red, &c., * Evening Primrose, large yellow, * Evening Primrose, willow-leaved, Feather Grass, * Flos Adonis, or Pleasant Eye, red, + Francoa, pink and purple, §Galardia, orange and crimson, Garidella, Nigella like, Gilia, blue, pink, variegated, &c., § Globe Amaranthus, crimson, white, Grove Love, blue, + Godetia the Twiggy, purple, Godetia the Ruddy, annual, Godetia, dwarf, purple, and spotted, * Gypsophila, pink and white, Hawkweed, yellow and red, § Hibiscus, yellow, reddish centre, * Horned Poppy, yellow and scarlet, + Hunnemania, brilliant yellow, Hypecoum, three species, yellow, § Ice Plant, white, + Jacobea, purple, spotted, &c., Job’s Tears, gray, Larkspur, dwarf Rocket, white, blue, purple, pink, and other colours, Larkspur, branching, various colours, T.avatera, red, purple, and white, Love lies bleeding, crimson, Lunaria, purple, * Lupins, dwarf annual, yellow, pur- ple, rose, two-coloured, &c., Malesherbia, blue, * Malope, tall scarlet, &c., * Malope, dwarf crimson. rose, Marigold, African, yellow, orange, t Perennial. * Difficult to transplant. Feet high. Nigella damascena, Hispanica, orientalis, sativa, etc., 1to2 Nigella nana, 1 Mesembryanthemum glabrum, 1 to 2 Didiscus ceruleus, 2to3 Solanum melongena, 1to2 Erissimum perofskianum, 1to2 Escholizia, crocea, cristata, Cal- Californica, etc., 1 Xeranthemum lucidum, var, lu- tea, bracteatum, alba, 2to3 Euphorbia variegata, 2to3 Gnothera linearis, Drummondii, tetraptera, micrantha, etc., 1to2 Cnothera grandifiora, 2to3 Cnothera salcifolia, 3to4 Stipa pinnata, avenacea, lto2 Adonis minata, 1to2 Francoa appendiculata, 1to2 Galardia picta, 1to2 Garidella nigellastrum, 1to2 Gilia capitata, tricolor, etc., 1 to2 Gomphrena globosa, 1to2 Nemophila insignis, 1 Godetia viminea, 3 to 4 Godetia rubricunda, 2to3 Godetia lepida, Lyndleyana, etc., 1 to 2 Gypsophila elegans, viscosa, 1to2 Crepis barbata rubra, 1to2 Hibiscus Africanus, 2to3 Glawcewm luteum, pheniceum, 2 to3 Hunnemania famerix, folia. 3 to 4 Hypecoum procumbens, etc., 1to2 Mesembryanthemum, var. 1 Senecio purpurea, elegans, etc., 1 to2 Coiz lachryma Jobi, 2to3 Delphinium ajacis, alba, caeru- lea, purpurea, etc., 1to2 Delphinium consolida, etc., 2to3 Lavatera, trimestris, alba, efc., 4 to6 Amaranthus melancholicus, 1to2 Lunaria purpurea, lto2 Lupinus nanus, densiflorws, bi- color, eétc., lto2 Malesherbia coronata, 2to3 Malope grandiflora, etc., 3 to 4 Malope trifida, malacoides, 1to2 Tagetes erecta, 3 to 4 20 § Denotes tender. Marigold, French, variegated, Marigold, sweet, yellow striped, § Marigold, Fig, yellow, Martynia, or Cuckold’s Horn, + Marvel of Peru, or Four O’Clocks, white, yellow, red, striped scented, + Mignonette, sweet scented. + Monkey Flower, yellow, scarlet, rose, &c , variegated, § Nierembergia, several varieties of various colours. Nolana. in varieties, blue, * Oats, animated, green, + Pansy, or Heart’s Ease, purple, blue. yellow, and numerous shades, variegated, Pentaptes. scarlet, Phlox, annual, rosy red, &c. Pimpernel, blue and scarlet, * Poppy, larze white and scarlet, * Poppy, dwarf. scarlet, white, yel- low, striped, Persian red, &c., Portulaca, two var., purple, scarlet, Prince’s Feather. crimson, Rocket Candytuft, white, &c., Rose Campion. annual, dwarf red, purple. white, striped, &c. Salpiglossis. variegated, purple, &c., Saphonaria, or Silene, rose, + Schizanthus, in variety, orange, wing-leaved, &c., § Sensitive Plant, red, Shortia, yellow, § Stevia, Vanilla scented, white Stock Gilly. Virginian, lilac. Strawberry Spinach, red fruit, Strephtanthus, rose-coloured, Sunflower. yellow, Sunflower. dwarf, yellow, Sun Rose. spotted, * Sweet Balm, blue, * Sweet Basil, blush, lilac, Sweet Sultan, white, yellow, purple, * Ten Week Stock, scarlet, purple, white, &c., § Tobacco in varieties, scarlet, yellow, Touch me not, yellow, [&e:, Trefoil, crimson and scented, t Perennial. ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. * Difficult to transplant Feet high. Tagetes patula, 2to3 Calendula officinalis, 1 to2 Mesembryanthemum annuus, 1 Martynia proboscidea, 2 to 3 Mirabilis galapa, lutea, rubra, striata, longiflora, eétc., 2to3 Reseda odorata, under 1 Mimulus moschatus, cardinalis, rivularius, roseus, etc., Nierembergia intermedia, viola- cea, phenicia, etc., 2to3 Nolana paradozxia, prosirata, etc 1 to 2 Avena sensitiva, 2to 3 Viola tricolor, grandiflora, atro, purpurea, cerulea, lutea, eic., 1to2 under 1] Pentaptes phenicia, 1to2 Phlox Drummondii, etc., lto2 Anagallis indica, arvensis, 1 Papaver somniferwm, coccinea, 3 to 4 Papaver rheas, nudicale, Persi- cum, rwora, striata, etc., 1 to2 Portulaca splendens, coccinea, ° ] Amaranthus hypocundriacus, 2to3 Tberis coronaria, etc., 1 to2 Agrostemmaceli, rosea, githago, lacta, ete., 1 Salpiglossis, atro purpurea, 2to3 Saphonaria vaccaria, 2to3 Schizanthus retusus, pinnatus, obtusifolia, etc., 1 to 2 Mimoso sensitiva, under 1 Shortia Californica, 1to2 Stevia serrata, 1 to2 Malcomia maritima, ] Blitum eapitatun, lto2 Streptanthus obtusifolius, 2to3 Helianthus annuus, 6to8 Helianthus minor, nanus, 2to3 Helianthemum guttatum, lto2 Melissa odoratum, lto2 Ocymum basiliacum, 1to2 Centaurea moschata, etc., 1 to 2. Mathiola annua varieties gra- ca, tenella, etc., 1 to2 Nicotiana, tabacum, rustica, 3to4 Noli mi tangere, ! Trifolium incarnatum, etc., 3to4 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 21 § Denotes tender. t Perennial. * Difficult to transplant. Feet high. * Venus’s Looking-Glass, lilac, Campanula speculum, Ito 2 Vesicaria, in varieties, yellow, Vesicaria grandiflora, eétc., 2to3 -++ Verbena, in varieties, scarlet, rose, Verbena aubletia, bonariensis, blue, lilac, pink, &c., Drummondii, pulchelila, etc., 1 to 3 Zinnia, scarlet, yellow, violet-colour- Zinnia coccinea, latea, grandi- ed, red, &c., flora, rubra, etc., 2to3 The following are climbing and trailin g¢ plants, which should be planted in situations where they can be supported by poles, twine, or trellises. The tallest growing vines and creepers are best adapted to the covering of arbours, to create shade, or conceal any unsightly object ; the procumbent trailing and low climbing plants, such as the Nasturtium, Loasa, Petunia, Sweet Pea, &c., may be trained on trellis-work of an ornamental form, as that of a fan, balloon, or pyramid, which should be ona scale corresponding to the situation and extent of the garden. p Feet high, Balloon Vine, or Love in a Puff, Cardiospermum halicacabum, over 10 § Balsam Apple and Pear, Momordica balsamina, over 10 Bean Hyacinth, white and purple, Dolichos alba, purpurea, over 10 § Bean, scarlet flowering, Phaseolus multifiorus, over 10 Bean, Castor Oil, or Palma Christi, Ricinus communis, 5 to 6 § Cypress Vine, scarlet and white, Ipomcea coccinea, alba, over 19 Gourd, Mock Orange, in varieties, Cucurbita bicolor, aurantia, over 10 Gourd, the Bottle, in varieties, © Cucurbita lagenaria, elevuta, 10 § Loasa or Chillian Nettle, orange, Loasa lateritia, aurantiaca, etc.,3 to 6 Maurandia, blue, Maurandia Barclayana, over 10 § Morning Glory, scarlet striped, &c., Ipumeea coccinea, striata, etc., over 10 Morning Glory, of the Convolvulus Convoluulus major, purpurea, tribe, purple, striped, yellow, pink, ccrwlea. striata, lutea. incar- white, &c., nata, alba, etc., over 10 Nasturtium, orange and crimson, Tropeolum atrosanguineum, variegated, nana, étc., 4to6 §Thunbergia, wing-leaved, purple, Thunbergia alata, etc., 4to6 + Petunia, purple, white, rose, &c., Petwnin nyctaginiflora, etc., 2to3 Sweet Peas, various complexions, Lathyrus odoratus, var. alba, white, purple, red, rose, striped, &c. purpurea, rosea. striata, etc., 3 to 4 As many city gardens are so limited as not to admit of an extensive assortment of flowers, a select list may be made from the above catalogue, to suit the taste of such as may be so situated; and amateurs, who cultivate on a larger scale, 22 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. can obiain such additional sorts as may be desired at the different seed stores, under their various names. Previous to providing annnal flower seed, the cultivator should lay out a plan of his garden, and in making allotments of ground for any particular purpose, provision should be made for a select assortment of such bulbous, tuberous, and perennial plants, as may be deemed most worthy of attention, not forgetting to leave room for some of the choicest varieties of the Dahlia, the qualities of which will be described hereafter. Another consideration is, to have at hand suitable imple- ments, so that the work may be performed in a skillful man- ner, and at the proper season. A spade, rake, hoe, trowel, drilling machine, and pruning knife, may be deemed essen- tial; and in order to have the beds laid out, with the edges straight and even, a garden line should be in readiness. (Eg labels should be required, they may be made of shingles, which being split into strips about an inch wide, and sharp- ened at one end, will serve for marking distinct kinds, either in pots, or on the borders. In order to have the names or numbers written in legible characters, the labels should be painted on the smooth side with white lead, and then marked with a black lead pencil before the paint gets dry; inscrip- tions made in this way will be as durable as the label itself. The next, and perhaps the most important consideration, is, to have the ground in good condition to receive the seed. In order to attain this desirable object, let some good rich compost, or very old manure, be provided and well mixed with the soil ; dig it a full spit deep, pulverizing every parti- cle. It would be an advantage if the ground could be dug to a great depth at the clearing up of winter, and then again at the period of sowing seed in the Sprine: “T come, I come—ye have called me long— I come o’er the mountains with light and song! Ye may trace my steps o’er the wakening earth, By the winds which tell of the Violet's birth, By the Primruse-stars in the shadowy grass, By the green leaves opening as J pass.” | ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 23 A mellow loam, which is a medium earth between the extremes of clay and sand, enriched with pulverized manure or compost, is adapted to the generality of flowering plants ; ground, however, of a boggy nature, composed of black earth, decayed leaves, &c., and in a low situation, is essen- tial to the luxuriant growth of amphibious plants, as Water Lilies, Iris, Lobelia, and the like; but as the cultivator has not always a choice, he may select such plants only as are most congenial to his peculiar soil and situation. Previous to digging flower beds or borders, care must be taken that they are so arranged that the ground may be a little elevated in the middle; this is essential to the draining off of a redundancy of water, as well as to the exhibition of plants to the greatest possible advantage. All kinds of annual flower seed may be sown in the months of April and May, on borders or beds of pulverized earth ; the beds should be levelled, and the seed sown either in small patches, each kind by itself, or in drills, from an eighth to half an inch deep, according to the size or nature of the seed. Lupins, Peas, &c., should be planted about half an inch deep. Those who would have their plants flower early, should sow the hardy kinds the last week in March, or early in April. Those varieties marked thus Tt, and thus §, may be sown in boxes, or pots of light earth, at the same time. These, if exposed to the sun every day, and sheltered in cold nights, will be forwarded in growth, and be fit to trans- plant early in June. Those marked * may also be sown in small pots; and as these plants will not bear transplanting, they should be turned out of the pots with the balls of earth entire, and placed in the ground where they are intended to flower ; or, if the seed be sown in a bed with other kinds, they should be carefully transplanted with a trowel, without disturbing their roots. The most eligible way to obtain early flowers is to prepare a slight hot-bed for the tender kinds, (see Calendar for Janu- ary,) and either plunge the pots therein up to their brims, 24 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. or sow the seed in the earth in shallow drills, not more than a quarter of ar inch deep. It may be necessary to state, that although, in favourable seasons, flower seed in general will come up in from one to three weeks after it is sown, the seed of the Cypress vine will not grow until settled warm weather, unless in a hot-bed; it should be soaked fur about half an hour in moderately warm water, previous to being sown. If some of the hardy annuals be sown in September, they will grow large enough to survive the winter, if slightly covered with straw or litter; and if plants thus raised be transplanted early in the spring, they will produce very early flowers. The following are some of the hardiest: Alyssum, Sweet. Evening Primrose. Coreopsis, or Calliopsis. Larkspur, in varieties. China Aster, in varieties. Pansy, or Heart’s Kase. Catch Fly. Poppy, in varieties. Chrysanthemum, in varieties. Rocket Larkspur. To prevent disappointment, I would recommend that great care be taken to keep the seed beds as clear from weeds as possible. It cannot be denied that young plants are apt to get smothered, and sometimes pulled up with weeds. ‘To obviate this, | would suggest that the seed be sown in shallow drills, each kind by itself, and that an account be kept of the contents of each drill in a book; also of all seed that are sown at different times; and by being particular in the dates, you may always know when to expect your plants to come up. Those persons totally unacquainted with plants, will, by this means, be enabled to identify each particular kind, and thus become familiarly acquainted with them.* In order * Lest the reader should think that the author is here shifting his own duty and responsibility on the cultivator, it may be necessary to observe that a definition of all the peculiar qualities, forms, attitudes, and habits of growth, of the numerous species and varieties of plants embraced in an extensive catalogue, with minute directions for the most appropriate culture of each, would alone occupy more space than is allotted to this treatise ; and that to expatiate on all the various features of the floral kingdom is a ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 2h that this may be rendered plain to my readers, I shall adopt the following plan of entry of six kinds sown in pots, and six in the open ground : April 20, sowed flower seed in pots. Pot marked A, or 1, Amaranthus tricolor. ty B, or 2, Balsamines, C, or 3, Cockscomb. " D, or 4, Egg Plant. E, or 5, Ice Plant. ae F, or 6, Mignonette. These pots may be either marked with letters or figures on the outside, to answer with the book, or notches may be cut im wood, or other labels affixed to the pots, and entered accordingly. : April 30, sowed flower seed in drills, as under : No. 1, Bladder Ketmia. «2, Coreopsis Tinctoria. «3, Yellow Eternal Flower. ¢ « 4, Globe Amaranthus. «5, Princes’ Feather. «6, Larkspur, branching. If these numbers be continued to 100, or even 1,000, there can be no mistake, provided the rows are all marked accord- ing to the entry in the book; or if No. 1 be noted, plain sticks will answer afterward, if one be stuck at each end of every row. In this case it would be well to leave a space every ten or twenty rows, and note the number of rows ; by this means, they can be more easily traced. task which no author has ever attempted; nor can any library be found containing such a desideratum. The cultivator of a small garden may, however, by means of a memo- randum book, describe the peculiarities of such plants as come under his special care, as upright, procuinbent, trailing, climbing, bushy, slender- stalked, herbaceous, shrubby, &c., and thus learn how to cultivate and arrange the same, or similar plants, advantageously in succeeding years ; and it must be admitted that a few flowers, selected so as to harmonize in their colours and habits of growth, cultivated with precision, as respects soil and situation congenial to them, and trained and pruned into regular and compact shapes, will yield more pleasure and amusement than three times the number taken promiscuously and cultivated under one uniform treatment, as is the general, though ne most judicious, practice. v Ly) os ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. Some species of Dwarf Annuals, such as Sweet Alyssum, Candytuft, Clarkia Pulchella, Mignonette, Pimpernell, and such others as grow not over a foot in height, may be culti- vated in small beds, either separate or two or three kinds mixed together. Clarkia Pulchella suits very well with Mignonette, as it will thrive in moderately poor soil, which is the best adapted for that plant when fragrance is an object.* The best way to manage the mixed species, is to level a narrow border of rather poor soil, and sow it all over with Mignonette, then with Clarkia Pulchella; when the plants are up, both kinds should be thinned out equally, so as to leave the plants from one to two inches apart all over the bed; these, when they come into blossom, will form a rich mass, and have a very pretty effect, the bushiness of the Mignonette hiding the naked stalks of the Clarkia. The White Alyssum and Purple Candytuft form a pleasing con- trast when mixed in equal proportions, and also the Dwarf Gilia and Blue Pimpernell. The new species of Dwarf Annual Phlox, (Phlox Drum- mondi,) are described in a London Magazine as a splendid sight when cultivated ina bed. ‘ Every flower, though of the deepest carmine, has its petals of a pale blush colour on the under side, and every petal, though of the palest pink, has a dark carmine spot at its base. Thus the variety of colours displayed in a bed of these flowers, almost exceeds description ; and when they are seen under a bright sun, and agitated by a gentle breeze, the effect is extraordinarily brilliant.” ‘When seed are intended to be sown in patches, which is often done for want of an unoccupied border, the best way * The reason that some Mignonette has scarcely any scent is, because the soil in which it is cultivated is too rich; and this leads me to remark farther, that what some call Tree Mignonette, and admire on account of its fragrance, is not a distinct variety, but the ordinary kind, cultivated as a perennial plant. It may be propagated by cuttings, and trained so as to form a tree ; which being transplanted into poor greund, will yield more fragrance than when grown as an annual in a rich compost. ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. oF to perform this business is, after having pulverized the soil, to impress circular drills in the surface with the rim of a flower pot, which may be large or small, according to fancy, By sowing seed in such circular drills, the plants can be more easily traced than when scattered promiscuously over the ground, and the weeds can be destroyed with less risk and trouble. Such kinds as are marked in the Catalogue thus * may remain as sown, or, if parted, they should be removed with a scoop trowel in a careful manner, in small tufts; and this business, as well as transplanting in general, should always be done immediately preceding or after rain, and in cloudy weather. Herbaceous plants in general will not flower well if grown in clusters; they should, therefore, be thinned or trans- planted into the regular beds, at all favourable opportunities, after they get about an mch in height ; and as there is always a risk of some plants not taking root, it is safest to plant a few of each sort every time, taking care to diversity the colours, and also to leave a few plants in the seed beds, for the purpose of substituting in the room of such plants whose period of flowering may be over; as is the case generally with early Perennial plants and bulbs, at about the season that the last of the Annuals are fit to remove. The transplanting may be done with a small trowel, or a neat dibble made for the purpose. + The risk and trouble of transplanting may be avoided by adopting the fol- lowing method of sowing the seed. Take a dollar package of twenty varieties, and number the bags from one to twenty ; then sow a circle from each bag in the order in which they are numbered, and insert a short stick in the centre of each circle as a mark. By this method the twenty varieties are distributed along the border in succession, and as each bag will be sufficient for three circles, sixty circles, or three assortments of twenty varieties, may be sown in three different aspects of the garden, which will not only give the various flowers the best possible chance with regard to exposure, but show the varieties to the greatest possible advantage. By preserving the bags, the mere novice, by referring to the name and number on each, will become acquainted with the different varieties, from the order in which they stand in his garden. This system may be practised to advantage either on a large or small scale. 28 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS TO THE CATALOGUE OF BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEED. Tue remarks preceding our Catalogue of Annuals will, with few exceptions, apply to that of Biennials and Peren- nials; and it may be observed farther, that the circulation of the sap in the roots and stalk of plants is influenced by like causes, and subject to the same vicissitudes, as the germin- ation of seed, which principle is exemplified by some plants of various species putting forth their leaves and flowers at a later period than others in the same location, as if waiting for nature to replenish the earth with food adapted to their respective requirements; which, by the gradual changes from cool to temperate, and from that to warm weather, is effected to that degree as to enable all the various species of plants, collected from every climate and soil under the sun, to reward the industrious cultivator by a gradual exhibition of their fasci- nating blossoms, and a distribution of their odoriferous sweets, throughout the three propitious seasons of the year, 7. ¢., spring, summer, and autumn. In distinguishing between Biennials and Perennials, I have only marked such as are apt to die after once blossoming, and which can only be renewed from seed. Some of those species, frequently classed with Biennials, as Iquelegia or Columbines, Dianthus, &c., are in reality Perennial, and may be easily perpetuated from year to year, by suckers, lay- ers, or any of the ordinary methods of propagation; and here I would observe, that frequent renewal of the roots of Per- ennials is absolutely necessary to their prosperity or very existence; and also that many species are by nature best BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 29 adapted for propagation at the footstalks, from their yielding little or no seed at the top of the plant. This is particularly the case with choice double-flowering plants, the roots of which, in many cases, constitute the seed; these, consequently, must be perpetuated by root offsets, cuttings, &c. The annexed Catalogue embraces a great proportion of the most desirable of what are termed fibrous-rooted herba- ceous plants ; the seed or roots of which may be obtained at seed stores and nurseries. The estimated height applies to plants of .a year’s growth; some will arrive to more than three times that height when cultivated in a greenhouse, and even in open ground culture the same plants will vary con- siderably, according to the soil or situation in which they are grown; the specified height however, although unavoidably imperfect, may serve as a guide to the gardener in arranging his flower beds. Those marked thus +, being tender and half hardy, will need protection in the winter; those marked thus || are Biennial; those marked thus* yield little or no seed. There are also many other species of which the seed is un- attainable, from its being suffered to scatter by the wind, and in some cases, from the climate being unfavourable to its ripening ; these, as will be shown hereafter, may be perpetu- ated by other methods. 3° 30 A CATALOGUE: OF BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEED. Graines de fleurs bisannuelles et vivaces. +t Denotes tender. Adonis, Spring-flowering, yellow, Alpine Columbine, purple, Alyssum, yellow, Asclepias, orange, purple, &c., Asiatic Globe Flower, yellow, +Auricula, variegated, +Balm of Gilead, fragrant, Bee Larkspur, blue and brown, ’ Bergamot, crimson, blue, *+Canary Aster, purple, +Calceolaria, various colours, Campanula Peren., blue, white, &c., Canterbury Bells, blue, white, +Caper Tree, green, Cardinal lower, in varieties, scarlet, Cassia, Maryland, yellow, +Carnation Pink, various colours, *+Celcia, red and yellow, variegated, Chinese Imperial Pink, variegated, +Chinese Primrose, lilac. white, +Cistus, yellow, +Clandanthus, white, +Clerodendron, scarlet, Clove Imperial Pink, crimson, +Colutea, scarlet, *Coreopsis, Perennial, in varieties, yellow, *+Coronilla, yellow, *Coronet, or double Lychnis, scarlet, Clary, purple-topped, Columbine, various colours, *+Daisy, Garden, various colours, Dragon’s Head, bluish pink, DPragon’s Head, purple and striped, Kuropean Globe Flower, yellow, Evening Primrose, yellow, Eupatorium, blue, white, \Fox-glove, purple, white, 0 Biennial. * Seed unattainable. Feet high. Adonis vernalis, 2to3 Aquilegia alpina, 1to2 Alyssum saxatile, 1 Asclepias incarnatda, etc.; 2to3 Trollius Asiaticus, 3to4 Primula auricula, under 1 Dracocephalum canariense, 1 Delphinium elatum, Ato 6 Monarda Kalmiana, didyma, 2to3 Cineraria amelloides, 1 Calceolaria variabilis, 2 to 3 Campanula persicafolia; etc. 2to3 Campanula medium, 2to3 Euphorbia lathyrus, 2to3 Lobelia cardinalis, etc., 3 to 4 Cassia Marylandica, 3 to4 Dianthus caryophyllus, 1to2 Celcia orientalis, 1to2 Dianthus Chinensis, 1to2 Primula Chinensis, under » 1 Cistus guttatus, 1to2 Clandanthus arabicus, 2to3 Clerodendron speciosum, 4to5 Dianthus hortensis, 1to2 Sutherlandia frutescens, 2to3 Calliopsis grandiflora, lanceola- tum, auriculata, étc., 2to3 Corunilla glauca, 2to3 Lychnis coronata, 2to3 Salvia sclara, 1to2 Aquilegia vulgaris, 1to2 Bellis perennis, hortensis, under 1 Dracocephalum Virginianum, 3 to 4 Dracocephalum argumense, etc. 1 to 2 Trollius Europeus, 2to3 @nothera biennis, 3 to 4 Eupatorium cerulea, etc., 2to3 Digitalis purpurea, alba, 3 to4 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS, 3 t Denotes tender. | Biennial. * Secd unattainable. Feet high. Fraxinella, red, white, : Dictamnus rubra, alba, 1to2 Gentian, purple, yellow, white, Gentiana purpurea, lutea, etc., 1 Gentian, porcelain-flowered, Gentiana adscendens, 2to3 +Geranium, various colours, Pelargonium zonale, 2to3 Globe Thistle, purple, Echinops spherocephalus, 2to3 tHepatica, blue, pink, Anemone hepatica, under 1 Hibiscus, pink, white, purple, Hibiscus palustris, speciosus, etc. 3 to 4 Hollyhock, Antwerp, China, and Althea flora Chinensis, Anglica, English, of various colours, ete., 4tod |(Honesty, or Satin Flower. blush. Lunaria biennis, 2to3 +Indian Shot, yellow, scarlet, Canna Indica, lutea, coccinea, 1to2 +|| Ipomopsis, scarlet, Ipomopsis elegans, 3to4 Ivy-leaved Toad Flax, pink, Lunaria, cymbalaria, 1to2 Jaeob’s Ladder, blue, Polemonium ceruleum, 1to2 +Jerusalem Cherry, red fruit, Solanum pseudo, capsicum, 2to3 Larkspur, Perennial, purple, pink, Delphiniwm grandiflorum, pe- white, &c., rennis, 2to3 *Liatris, long spiked, purple, Liatris spicata. elegans, eic., 3to4 *Lily of the Valley, white, Convalleria majalis, ] +Lotus, brown, Lotus gacobeus, 2te3 7 Lisianthus, scarlet, Lisianthus Russellianus, 2to3 t+Lupin, Perennial, blue, white, Lupinus perennis, mutabdilis, changeable, &c., variabilis, ete., 2to3 *Lychnidea, or American Phlox, lilac, Phlox puniculata accuminata purple, red, white, &c., pyramidalis, odorata, etec., 3to4 *Lychnidea, early, pink, &c., Phlox subulata, stolonifera, etc. 1 to 2 *Lychnis, Mountain, variegated, Lychnis Alpina, 1to2 Lychnis, scarlet, Lychnis Chalcedonica, 3 to 4 London Pride, variegated, Dianthus deltvides, ~ 1 +Mesembryanthemum, variegated, Mesembryanthemum acinaci- yellow, white, purple, &c., forme, spectabile, tricolor, etc., 1 to 2 *+Mexican Sage, scartet, Salvia splendens, 2to3 Monk’s Hood, white, blue, &c., Aconitum album, versicolor, efc. 4 to 6 Monkey Flower, yellow, purplespots, Mimulus ringens, luteus, efc. 1to2 +Oleander, pink, white, Nerium Oleander, 2to3 *Pardanthus, Chinese, orange, Pardanthus Chinensis, 1to 2 Pentstemon, purple. ie Pentstemon campanulata, 2to3 Perennial Flax, purple, Linum perennis. 2to3 +Periwinkle, Madagascar, rose, white, Vincu rusea, alba, 1 to2 Pink, Pheasant-eyed, variezated, Dianthus plumarius, under i +Polyanthus, variable and splendid, Primula polyanthus. ander 1 Poppy, Perennial, red, yellow, Papaver orienixie, bracteaiu, 203 Potentilla, rose, puce, yellow, Potentilia formosa, splendens, 1 to2 +||[Pyramidal Bell Flower, blue, Campanula pyramidalis, 3to 4 . *Queen of the Meadows, white, rose, Spirea ulmaria, lobata, etc. 3to4 *Ragged Robin, or Red Lychnis, Agrostemma flus cucula, 1 te2 Rocket, Garden, purple, Hesperis matronalis. " 2ta3 Rose Campion, or Mullen Pink, Agrostemma coronaria, rosea, rose, white, &c., alba, ete.s 2 to 3 32 | BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. t Denotes tender. 0 Biennial. * Seed unattainable. Feet high. Rudbeckia, yellow, purple, Rudbeckia, lutea,purpurea, 3to4 Saphonaria, rose blush, Saphonaria officinalis, etc., 1to2 *Saxifrage, rose white, purple, Saxifraga umbroso, crassifolia, 1 ||Snapdragon, white, red, variegated, Antirrhinum bicolor, versicolor, in several splendid varieties, coccinea, spartium, etc., 1to2 Sophora, white, blue, &c., Sophora alba, autralis, 2to3 T||Stock Gilliflower, numerous varie- Mathiola incanus, coccinea, alba, ties, scarlet, white, purple,striped, purpurea, striata, etc., 1to2 *Suntlower, yellow, Helianthus perennis, altissinvus, 3 to 4 Sweet Scabious, purple, brown, Scabiosa atro, purpurea, etc. 2to3 Sweet William, various colours, Dianthus barbatus, 1 to2 *Thrift, pink and red, Statice vulgaris, speciosa, under 1 Valerian, Garden, red, white, Valeriana rubra, alba, 2to3 Valerian, Sweet-scented, blue, Polumonium cerulea, 3 to 4 Veronica, variegated, blue, Veronica variegata, cerulea, 2to3 *Violet, Fragrant, white, blue, &c., Violaodoruta, alba,cerulea,under 1 +||\Wallflower, bloody, yellow, Cherianthus cheiri, } to2 *+ Wallflower, double perennial, Cheiranthus perennis, }to2 +||Wall-leaved Stock Gilliflower, Cheiranthus glaber, 1 to2 *Windflower, various colours, Anemone coronaria, 1to2 Yucca, or Adam’s Needle, white, Yucca filamentoca, gloriosa, etc. 3 to 4 CLIMBING PLANTS. |For the other lists of Climbing Plants, see Catalogue of Flowering and Ornamental Shrubs; also the Catalogue of Annuals. | Calampelis, orange, Eccremocarpus scabra, over 6 +Climbing Cobea, dark purple, Cobea scandens, over 20 Everlasting Peas, pink, Lathyrus latifolius, rosea, over 10 [French Honeysuckle, white, red, Hedysarwm coronarium, etc., over 6 +L ophospermum, pink, Lophospermum scandens, over 6 +Passion Flower, various colours, Passiflora incarnaia, etc., over 20 The reader is here reminded that our Catalogue of Annual Flower Seed contains a few varieties of Perennials, which were there introduced because of their aptness to blossom the first season of the seed being sown; these, with those marked ¢ in the last Catalogue, may be sown and treated in the manner recommended for tender Annuals. Those in- tended to be cultivated as green-house plants, should be taken up before the approach of cold weather, transplanted BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 33 into flower-pots, and sheltered either in a garden-frame, green-house, or light room. Those plants with tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, Marvel of Peru, and also some others of the Bean and Pea tribe, may be cut down late in the au- tumn, and the roots taken up and preserved in the same manner as those of other tuberous and bulbous-rooted plants, of which I shall treat hereafter. Hardy Biennial and Perennial flower seed may be sown in the month of April, in shallow drills. If this business be performed in the manner recommended for Annuals, they can be easily distinguished from each other; and as these plants do not flower the first year, they may be thinned out, or removed from the seed-beds as soon as they are well rooted, and planted either in different parts of the flower- beds, or in a nursery-bed. If the latter plan be adopted. they should be planted in rows a foot or more apart, and kept free from weeds by means of a small hoe, which will greatly promote their growth, and prepare them for trans- planting into the regular and permanent blossoming-beds, either in the autumn or early in the ensuing spring. It may be here observed that Biennials seldom survive the second winter to flower in perfection, unless they are renewed by cuttings of top shoots, young flower stalks, or casual off- sets, layers, &c. It will be unnecessary to take this trouble, unless with some extraordinary double-flowering plants. Some of the Perennials may be increased by root offsets detached from the old plants, and planted in spring or au- tumn; others by bottom suckers and slips of top shoots, layers, pipings of young shoots, &c. Pinks, Sweet Williams, Pansies, and double Violets, also Periwinkle, or running Myrtle, and many other similar plants, may be increased by simply laying their branches an inch or two under the sur- face, in July and August. After roots have formed, which may be expected in six or eight weeks, each tuft or plant may be transplanted into the borders. Many sorts of Biennial and Perennial flower seed may be 34 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. sown in September, or as soon as ripe; and if the plants get strong before winter sets in, some of them will flower the ensuing summer. The following are among the hardiest : Adonis, Spring-flowering. Lychnis, in varieties. Alpine Columbine. Larkspur, perennial. Alyssum, yellow. Rose Campion, in varieties. Bee Larkspur. Rocket, in varieties. Columbine, in varieties. Scabious, in varieties. Evening Primrose. Valerian, Garden. Fox-glove, in varieties. Veronica. Fraxinella. Everlasting Ea limbi Hollyhock, in varieties. Virgin’s Bower, Bard It may be necessary here to remind the reader of those species of beautiful double-flowering Perennial herbaceous plants, which do not produce seed; some of these are in- cluded in our Catalogue ; they may be obtained at the nur- series, and should be introduced into the regular flower-beds, either in autumn or early in the spring; the best mode of increasing these, and all double-flowering Perennials raised from seed, is by layers, cuttings, offsets, &c., detached from the old plants.* As the earth in the flower-beds will require to be fresh dug and replenished with good compost or manure once in two or three years, it may be necessary to take up all the Perennial plants at such times. Such roots as are overgrown shouid be deprived of their surplus offsets, and either planted in a nursery-bed, or returned with the parent plants into the * It may here be observed, that the most certain method of obtaining dou- ble flowers, is by propagation from Perennial plants. Many seed custom- ers feel disappointed if they do not in every case procure double flowers from seed, which is unreasonable, because, although seed will, under ordinary circumstances, reproduce its species, it will by no means uniformly pro- duce the particular variety by which it was borne. The experience of numerous amateurs will corroborate this fact, who frequently, after saving seed from their most perfect flowers, have the mortification of witness- ing such degeneracy the following season as would lead them to doubt its identity, had the seed been obtained from any other source. Seed gath- ered from double Balsams, or Lady Slippers, for instance, will frequently produce semi-double and single flowers the next season. BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 35 regular flower-beds; they should be inserted a little deeper than before, and the fine fresh earth distributed well about the fibres. In removing plants into the beds where they are intended to blossom, great pains should be taken to preserve some of the earth to their roots. The ground should be previously brought into good condition, so that they may strike freely, and produce their flowers in perfection. The plants should be so arranged that they may all be seen, the most dwarfish being placed in front, and the taller kinds in regular grada- tions behind ; or the tallest may be planted along the middle of the beds, and the others on each side, according to their varied heights and colours. ; There is no part of gardening which requires so much the exercise of taste and fancy, as in setting off a border or bed of intermixed flowers to advantage. In association with other flowers, the different kinds of hardy bulbs may be planted in small clumps of six, seven, or eight inches in diameter, three, four, five, or more roots in each, according to their size and growth, and these at suitable distances from each other. Likewise observe to diversify the kinds and colours, so as to display, when in bloom, the greatest possi- ble variety of shades and contrasts. If green-house plants be plunged into the flower borders in the month of May, they will not only tend to ornament _ the garden by their diversity of foliage and blossom, but the roots will receive a more uniform supply of moisture, than if the pots were exposed to the sun and wind: care should, however, be taken to give the different species a situation suitable for them. Hydrangeas, Primulas, Daisies, Olean- ders, Camellias, China, Roses, and half-hardy plants in gene- ral, thrive best in a moderately shaded situation. Gerani- ums, Jasmines, Heliotropes, &c., may be plunged in a sunny situation, provided they be regularly supplied with water, Many species planted for ornament in the flower borders, may at the same time be propagated by layers. The Fuchsia 36 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. or Ear-drop, Passion Flower, Heliotrope, Carnation, Petu- nia, running Verbena, &c., will, if layed in June or July, exhibit their blossoms in perfection, and yield young plants, which being preserved through winter, may be used to re- plenish flower-beds the ensuing spring.* * In some countries the wealthy have changeable flower gardens, which are so arranged that their productions can be changed at pleasure, so that whenever any plant, or group of plants, begins to decay, it can be removed, and its place supplied by others coming into bloom. To effect this, a large reserve-nursery is requisite, in which the plants must be kept in pots, and removed and plunged in the borders as wanted. Sir W. Chambers informs us that the Chinese excel in this mode of gardening ; and that he has known a mandarin (or noble) to have the whole furniture and style of his parterre changed in a single night, so as to present next morning not only a different description of flowers, shrubs, and dwarf trees, but a different arrangement of the beds and compartments. Something of the same kind 1s practised in the gardens of the Tuileries, in Paris; in some of the im- perial gardens at Petersburgh, and in the vice-royal gardens at Monza. Gardens of this description admit of a very perfect arrangement of the flowers, whether in the mingled manner, in select groups, or according to the natural method. It is only with such resources that a flower gar- dener can “ paint his way,” as Sir W. Chambers says the Chinese artists do, “ not scattering their flowers indiscriminately about their borders, but disposing of them with great circumspection along the skirts of the plant- ations, or other places where flowers are to be introduced. They reject all that are of a straggling growth, and of harsh colours and poor foliage, choosing only such as are of some duration, grow either large or in clus- ters, are of beautiful forms, well leaved, and of tints that harmonize with the greens that surround them. They avoid all sudden transitions, both with regard to dimension and colour, rising gradually from the smallest tlowers to those of the boldest growth; and varying their tints, by easy gradations, from white, straw-colour, purple, and incarnate, to the deepest blues, and most brilliant crimsons and scarlets. They frequently blend several roots together, whose leaves and flowers unite, and compose one rich, harmoni- ous mass; such as the white and purple Candytuft, Larkspurs, and Mal- lows of various colours, double Poppies, Lupins, Primroses. Pinks, and Carnations ; with many more of which the forms and colours accord with each other ; and the same method they use with flowering shrubs, blending white, red, and variegated roses together, purple and white lilacs, yellow and white jasmines, altheas of various sorts, and as many others as they can with any propriety unite. . By these mixtures they increase considera- bly the variety and beauty of their compartments. In their large planta- tions, the flowers generally grow in the natural ground ; but in flower gar- dens, and all other parts that are highly kept, they are in pots buried in the ground, which, as fast as the bloom goes off, are removed, and others are brought to supply their places ; so that there is a constant succession for almost every month in the year; and the flowers are never seen but in the height of their beauty.”—Louwdon’s Encyclopedia of Gardening. BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 37 It may be observed farther, that established plants will always produce their blossoms earlier and stronger in the spring, than those recently transplanted; it should, there- fore, be an object with gardeners to do the business of form- ing permanent flower-beds and of transplanting hardy Peren- nial and Biennial plants, in September or October. The hardy bulbous roots must also be planted in October or November, which on being properly preserved through the winter, will embellish the parterre in spring by their early and First Frowers. “First flowers of the spring time, Bright gems of the year, All lovely and blooming, How fresh ye appear ; Springing up in the garden, The hedge-row and vale, Enriched by the showers. And fann’d by the gale.” In my preliminary observations, I directed the attention of my readers to some important points respecting walks, edgings, &c. Although box is superior to any thing else for edgings, yet, in extensive gardens, dwarf plants of vari- ous kinds may be used for such purpose. Thrift is the neat- est small evergreen next to box; but Violets, Pinks, Peri- winkle, Pansy, Iris, Stone Crop, or even Parsley, Thyme, Strawberry plants, &c., may be used for the sake of diver- sity. These will require frequent watering and trimming, and the Thrift, &c., should be sometimes taken up, divided at the roots, and replanted. Box edgings will also require frequent pruning and trim- ming; and once in from seven to ten years the whole may be taken up, divided, and replanted, and the surplus slips _ may be planted in a nursery-bed, in rows about a foot apart ; these will be suitable for making edgings the year following. Flower-beds should be kept free from weeds, and watered occasionally in the summer. In the autumn they should be covered with leaves, straw, or light litter; this should be 38 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. taken oif in the spring, and the ground hoed and dressed in such a manner as to enliven the earth around the roots of the plants, and to give the whole a neat appearance. FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. Arbrisseaux d’Ornement. Sruss are so closely connected with flowering plants, and, indeed, so many of them are embellished with flowers, that they may be considered as essential to the completion of an ornamental garden. They are all Perennial, and are divided into two classes, deciduous and evergreen; the for- mer lose their leaves in the winter, the latter only shed them when others are ready to supply their places. Shrubs are not only necessary to the embellishment of a flower garden, but many kinds are eligible for hedges to it, and may be planted at a trifling expense. These hedges should be frequently trimmed and trained, the sides cut even and the tops sparingly clipped, so as to make them orna- mental as well as useful, and also to increase the vigour of their growth. When hedges become open or naked at the bottom, they should be plashed down; this is done by cut- ting the branches half through near the ground; they will then bend easily, and may be interwoven with the adjoiming branches. When shrubs, creepers, or climbers, are planted against walls or trellises, either on account of their rarity, delicacy, or to conceal a rough fence, or other unsightly object, they require different modes of training; some attach themselves naturally, as the Ivy, and merely require to be occasionally guided, so as to cause a regular distribution of their shoots; others must be treated lke fruit trees, trained thinly, if blossoms are the object, and rather thick, if the intention be to show the foliage to the greatest possible advantage. ‘ FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBs. 39 Ornamental shrubs grow from one foot to twelve or more feet in height ; and where such are planted for ornament, the height of each plant, when full grown, should be considered, and also the mode of growth, that every one may be so planted as to show to advantage, observing that the tall- growing kinds should be planted in the back part of the borders, and those of low growth in front; but if they are required to be planted in clumps, they should be so arranged as to rise gradually from the sides to the middle, and be afterward neatly trimmed. Shrubs require an annual pruning, at which time, cut out all irregular and superfluous branches, and head down such as Tequire it, forming them into handsome bushes. Apply stakes to such as need support, and see that the low-growing ones do not injure each other, or interfere with other dwarf- ish plants near them. Many kinds of shrubs may be raised from seed sown early in the spring, but are more commonly propagated by suckers, layers, or cuttings. Like other plants, they require a good soil, which should be manured every two or three years, and some of the tender kinds should have some pro- tection 1m winter. The following list, taken from ‘ The New-York Farmer,’ furnished by Mr. Floy, contains the most of those usually planted in gardens and on lawns. These will afford a suc- cession of flowers from spring until autumn, and may be ob- tained at the nurseries at moderate prices. CATALOGUE, &c. Amorpha fruticosa, Indigo shrub, produces handsome bunches of purple flowers in June and July. Amygdalus nana, Dwarf double-flowering Almond; a very beautiful shrub, about three feet high; blossoms early in April. 40 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. Aralia spinosa, or Angelica tree, about ten feet high; flowers in very large bunches, and continues a long while in bloom. Cytisus Laburnum, or Golden Chain ; a most elegant shrub, producing long racemes or bunches of yellow flowers in June and July; there are two kinds, the English and the Scotch Laburnum. The Scotch is the largest, forming a pretty large shrub; the English kind is greener, more com- pact, and by some thought to be the handsomest ; they ought to be in every garden. Calycanthus Floridus, Allspice, or sweet-sceuted shrub, 2 native of the Southern States; the flowers are of a very dark chocolate colour, and the fiagrance very much resem- bles ripe strawberries; easily kept when once introduced. This shrub generally grows about five feet high in gardens, and blossoms from May to August. Ceanothus Americanus, Red Root, or Jersey Tea Tree; a plant or two in the collection, as it flowers in profusion, is worth having. Cercis siliquastrum, or Judas tree. The flowers appear very early in the spring, before the leaves come out, and make a fine appearance; as it grows rather tall, it is caleu- lated for the back row of the shrubbery. Colutea arborescens, or Bladder Senna, having bunches of yellow flowers in June and July, which are succeeded by seed in a kind of bladder; calculated for the back or centre row of shrubberies, Crategus oxyacantha, the Hawthorn. It makes a pretty appearance planted out singly in the back or centre row; the flowers are very fragrant; it is sometimes called the Pride of May; the double white, double scarlet, and single scarlet Hawthorn, are very beautiful, and ought to be in every plantation. Hawthorn hedges are much used in Eng- land, where they look very handsome when clipped; but they do not answer so well in this country, the heat of our summers causing the leaves to fall off early, often in July; a FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 44 on that account they are not much used. We have several things which are better calculated for that purpose. Cydonia Japomca, or Pyrus Japonica, a very beautiful scarlet flowering shrub, from Japan. It is found to be very hardy, resisting our most severe frosts ; it flowers very early, and continues a long time in bloom. A second flowering takes place in the latter part of the summer. It is every way a desirable shrub. Daphne mezerion, one of our most early flowering shrubs, which blooms freely in April and May, and is very sweet-scented. “It is rather tender in some situations, but will stand our ordinary winters very well in a sheltered situation. Dirca palustris, or Leather Wood ; a pretty little shrub, growing very regular in shape, and has the appearance of a large tree in miniature; it is a native of our Northern States; the flowers, which appear very early in the spring, are yellow, and come out before the leaves. Gymnocladus Canadensis, or Kentucky Coffee tree. The berries bear a resemblance to coffee, and are said to be a good substitute for it; however, it is a beautiful tree, with handsome feathered leaves, and makes a fine contrast with others. It should be planted in the back or the centre of the plantation; it is very hardy. Halesia deptera, and Halesia tetraptera, two-winged and four-winged Silver Bell, or Snow-drop tree. They are both natives of the Southern States, but are perfectly hardy here ; our most severe winters do not injure them. The former kind flowers in April, and the latter withholds its blossoms until May. They are elegant shrubs. Hibiscus Syriacus, fl. pleno, the double-flowering Althea frutex, of which there are several varieties; the double white, double red, double red and white, and striped, are the most showy ; they begin to flower late in July, and con- tinue until Autumn. The single kind, of which there are many varieties, are scarcely worth cultivating, the double 42 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. ones being raised quite as easily, and are equally hardy. These are indispensable in every plantation. Hypericum frutescens, Shrubby Hypericum. There are several species of this small but beautiful shrub, all natives of the Southern States, but perfectly hardy here. They all flower profusely in the summer, and continue for a long time. They should be planted in the front row. Kerria Japonica, or Corchorus Japonica, yellow Japan Globe Flower; although a native of Japan, like many other Ja- panese flowers, it is perfectly hardy here. It flowers in the greatest profusion at all times, except in the very dead of winter, and will grow in almost any soil or situation. Kalreuteria paniculata, Japan Bladder tree, or Kelrolerius, This is another hardy shrub from Japan. It has long race- mes of flowers, succeeded by a bladder-like fruit, and is worthy of cultivation in every good collection. Ligustrum vulgare, virens, large European Privet, a very handsome evergreen shrub, flowering profusely in June, and producing bunches of black round berries. It bears slip- ping well, and is therefore very suitable for hedges, or to enclose ornamental plantations. It grows quick, and is well adapted to our climate; when planted in a hedge-row, and kept clipped. The American Privet makes a beautiful hedge, and ought to be in more general use. Philadelphus coronarius, or common Syringa, is very orna- mental, producing its sweet-scented flowers early in the spring, and in abundance. Philadelphus inodorous, and P. grandiflorus, Garland Sy- ringa, are both natives of the Southern States, but quite hardy here. Their flowers are large, and continue for several months, in wreaths or garlands. They are well calculated for the centre row, and also to hide unsightly objects, and have a beautiful effect when mixed with monthly honey- suckles, &c. Persica, or Amygdalus Persica, fl. rosea pleno, or double flowering Peach, is very beautiful in shrubberies. It blos- *%& FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 43 soms early, and sometimes bears fruit, but it is cultivated entirely for its beautiful blossoms. A few trees of the Chi- nese double flowering Apple (Pyrus spectabilis) have also a beautiful effect. Rhus cotinus, Venetian Sumach, Aaron’s Beard, sometimes called fringe tree, is a fine shrub, calculated for the centre of the clump or shrubbery. Its large branches of fringe remain all the summer, and give it a curious and striking effect. Ribes Missouriensis, or Missouri Currant; there are two species of this very ornamental shrub from Missouri, intro- duced by Lewis and Clarke ; they are quite hardy, and flower profusely from April to June. Robinia glutinosa, and Robina hispida; the former a pretty large shrub, producing fine bunches of flowers in great abundance throughout the summer ; the latter is a smaller shrub; both of them are, however, worthy of a place in large collections. ' Robinia pseudo-acacia, or Yellow Locust Tree.* This is superior to any other kind of wood for ship-tunnels, mill- cogs, and fence-posts, as well as for various other purposes. Its culture is very easy, and may be propagated in great abundance, by sowing the seed in March, April, or May, in a bed of good sandy loam, which is its favourite soil, and covering them half an inch deep. Previous to sowing, put the seed in a basin, pour on scalding water, and let it stand all night; pick out such seed as are swollen, and plant them immediately ; next evening repeat the same process with such as did not swell the first night, mix the whole and sow them; they will come up in the course of the following month numerously ; for no seed grow more freely, notwith- standing what some say to the contrary. When the plants are a year old, transplant them out of the seed-bed into nur- sery rows, four feet distant, and plant from plant one fvot. * This tree is introduced here, rather on account of its usefulness than beauty, though the latter is very considerable. 44 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS, Having had two or three years’ growth in these rows, they may be planted successfully in any warm and tolerably rich sandy soil. They may also be propagated by suckers, which they throw up abundantly, especially if some of the wide- extending roots be cut through with an axe. An acre of these trees, planted at two feet distant each way, will con- tain 10,890; and four feet distant, 2,722; and it is said that no appropriation of land is more lucrative than that devoted to this purpose. The Three-thorned Acacia seed (Gledzt- schia) should be prepared in the same manner. Fosa, or Roses, a very numerous variety of these ; some reckon five or six hundred kinds. They are accounted the most beautiful of Flora’s productions. Perhaps a handsome collection might be made out of about fifty of the best sorts, which, by taking such quantity, I suppose might be obtained at about fifty cents each, under name; and generally, a fine collection unnamed at half that amount. No good garden or shrubbery should be without them. Sorbus auewparia, Mountain Ash, or Roan tree. This isa very beautiful shrub of the larger size; the leaves are orna- mental; the flowers and fruit, which are produced in large bunches, are beautiful; the fruit remains till late in the au- tumn. It is a native of Hurope. : Sorbus Canadensis. This is a native of our Northern frontiers and mountains, but it does not grow so large as the former ; the berries are smaller and red, the former larger and of an orange colour; but otherwise much resembles it. Spartium junceum, Geniista, ete. Two or three species of Broom, producing numerous bunches of yellow flowers in May and June; the Genisia, or Spanish Broom, which has white flowers, is also very pretty, but not quite so hardy as the former. Symphoria racemosa, or Snow-berry, sometimes called St. Peter’s Wort, a pretty little shrub; the bunches of wax- like white berries, which it produces during the whole sum- mer, give it a beautiful appearance. CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS, 45 Syringa vulgaris, or common Lilac, blossoming in May, is well known to all, and needs no comment. The white variety is not quite so common. They are only used for outside plantings, as they sucker very freely, and soon make themselves common. Syringa Persica, or Persian Lilac, is a delicate low shrub, the flowers very abundant, and the leaves small and delicate. There are two varieties of the Persian Lilac; the white flowering, and the blue or purple flowering. The Chinese cut-leaved Lilac is very curious; the leaves are cut like Parsley, the flowers growing in longer racemes than the former. Siberzan, or large Persian Lilac. The bunches of flowers are very large, and continue in season a long time after the common Lilac. Tamaric Gallica, or French Tamarix, and the Tamarizr* Germanica, German Tamarix, are two pretty shrubs; the leaves and branches are small and slender, producing quan- tities of beautiful flowers, which form a very striking contrast to the other parts of the shrubbery. Viburnum opulus, or Guelder Rose, otherwise called Snow- ball, is a very showy shrub, producing large balls of snow- white flowers in May, and is indispensably necessary to every shrubbery. Viier agnus castus, or Chaste Tree, a pretty and singular shrub, flowering the most part of the summer. CLIMBING PLANTS. Aimpelopsis hederacea. This plant, on account of the largeness of its leaves and rapidity of its growth, is well adapted for covering walls. There are several species, all resembling the vine in habit and flower. tristolochia stpho, Birthwort, or Dutchman’s Pipe. - 5to6 Ingestive Rival, Taylor’s, bright lilac, - - - - - 5to6 §Jersey Maid, Langelier’s, blush, fine form, = - - - 4to5 Julia, Clarke’s, sulphur, tipped with crimson, - - - 4tod *Juliet, Widnall’s, fine cupped rose, - - - - - 4Ato5 Lady Ann, Hopwuvod’s, white, laced with lilac, - - - 3to4 +Lady Ashburton, Russell’s, pure white, tipped with carmine lake, 5 to 6 *Lady Ann Murray, Catleugh’s, white, mottled with purple, - 4 to 5 Lady Bathurst, white, laced with crimson, - - - - 4to5 Lady Catharine Jermyn, white, mottled with crimson scarlet, - 4 to 5 §Lady Glentworth, Widnall’s, shaded claret, fine form - - 4to5 §Lady Harland, Jeflries’s, rosy lilac, large showy flower, - - 5to6 Lady Sonde’s, Cox’s, pale yellow, edged with rose, - - - 4to5 Le Grande Baudain, Low’s, rosy lilac, centre tinged with yellow, 5 to 6 *Letitia, Wells’s, yellow and brown, fine shape, - - - 3to4 Lewisham Rival, white, elegantly cupped, - . - - 4to5 § Liberty, Girling’s, fine large cupped lilac, - - - - 4tod5 Lord Morpeth, Evans’s, dark puce, finely cupped, - - - 4to5 Lovely Ann, Dickerson’s, blush white. tinted with lilac, - - 4to5 *Lucina, Spencer’s, fine lilac, edged with crimson, - - - 4tod §Madame de Schaunenfeld, Girling’s, bright vermilion, tipped with white, fine shape and habit, - - - - - - Atod §Madeline Bray, Afwell’s, primrose, tipped with lilac, - + $to4 *Maid of Bath, Davis’s, white, edged with purple, = - - 4to5 Mary, Ward’s, primrose yellow, large flower, - - - - 4to5 +Mary Ann, Schmitz’s, pure white, large flower, and perfect, - 4to5 §Mary Jane, Edward's, white, tipped with purple, - - - 3to4 Maria, Wheeler’s, deep rose, superb form, - - - -« 4to5 §Marchioness of Aylesbury, Whale’s, fine white, tipped with scarlet, 4 to 5 *Marchioness of Breadalbane, lilac and white, mottled, - - 5to6 Marchioness of Lansdowne, blush. with purple edge, —- - 4to5 §Marquis of Landsdowne, Brown’s, shaded orange, large flower, 4 to 5 *Majestic, Widnall’s, shaded rose, free bloomer, - - - 5to6 *Marshal Soult, Elphinstone’s, lilac and red, - - - - 4to05 Maresfield Hero, Mitchell’s, yellow, tipped with crimson, - - 4tod5 Mary Queen of Scots, white, margined with purple, - - 5to6 Mazeppa, Widnall’s, rich ruby purple, - - - - - 4.t05 Metella, plum colour, fine form, - - - - - - 8toA *Middlesex Rival, extra fine dark purple, - - - - 5to6 §Miracle, Milliez’s, blood red, superior form, - - - - 4tod §Miss Chester, S/ern’s, fine white, a good form and habit, - 4to5 Miss Johnston, Willison’s, deep rose. extra fine form, - - 4tod5 +Miss Percival, Schmitz’s, clear white, free bloomer, - - 4tod5 Miss Scroope, Hedley’s, extra fine rose, cupped, : - - 5 to6 DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 75 * Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. Feet high. §Miranda, Brown’s, blush lilac, - - - - - 4to5 §Miss Watson, Girlings, light purple, tipped with white, - - 4to5 Miss Wilson, white, tipped with scarlet, - - - - 5to6 +Mrs. Fletcher Webster, Russell’s, white, tipped with purple, - 5to6 +Mrs. Rushton, Bwist’s, blush white, tipped with lilac, - - 5to6 Napoleon, Smith’s. dark crimson, excellent formed flower, - 5to6 Ne plus Ultra, Wid»all’s, fine shaped, purple and crimson, - 38to4 WNewick Rival, Mantell’s, beautiful ruby rose, - - - - 5to6 *Nimrod, Widnall’s, fine dark crimson, - - - - 5to6 §Northern Beauty, Robinson’s, white tipped with purple, - 4tod5 *Orange Boven, Caflewgh’s, beautiful bronzy lilac, large flower, - 4 to 5 §Oriental Pearl, Atwell’s, creanry white, good form, - - 5toG §Osgar, Widnall’s, excellent dark crimson, cupped petals, - 5to6 Painted Lady, white and blood red, - - : - - 5to6 Penelope, Hedley’s, blush, tinted with ie - - - 4to5 § Perpetual Grand, large purple, - - - - - 4tod +Philadelphia, Schmitz’s, white, spotted with purple, showy flower, 4 to 5 Phenomenon, Whale’s, white, edged with rosy lilac, - - - 5 to6 §Pheenix, Hedley’s, deep red scarlet, good form, - - - 4tod5 *Pickwick, dark purple, fine show flower, - - - - 4to5 Picta Magniflora, Wells’s, yellow, edged with red, - - - 3to4 §Plough Boy, Girling’s, dark purple, large and fine flower, - 4to5 Premier, Boruman’s, fine cupped yellow, - - - - 4tod5 *President, Wilmer’s, dark purple, well formed, - - - 5to6 President of the West, dark crimson, fine form, - - - 4tod Pride of Sussex, fine white, excellent form, - - - - Atod5 Prima Donna, Squibbs’s, blush, tinted with rosy lilac, - - 5to6 §Prince Albert, Adams’s, chestnut brown, shaded with salmon, - 4 to 5 §Prince of Wales, Dodd’s, fine yellow, cupped petals, - - 3to4 §Princess Royal. Hwdson’s, pale amber, edged with pink, cup’d petals, 3 te 4 §Princess Royal, Herwood’s, fine primrose. good form, - - 4tod5 §Princess Royal, Thompson’s bright orange, margined with red, - 3 to 4 *Queen Victoria, Fowdler’s, white, laced with purple, - - 4tod5 Queen, Ansell’s, white, mottled and edged with pink, - - 8to4 *Queen, Widnall’s, true peach blessom, splendid form, - - 4tod §Queen of Lilacs, Appleny’s, fine form and constant bloomer, - 4 to 5 § Rainbow, Smi/h’s, yellow. beautifully edged with rosy purple, - 4 to 5 Rainbow, Widnall’s, purple aud crimson, shaded, - - - 5toG *Reliance, Witnall’s, orange, finely cupped, = - - - 5to6 Revenge, (0z’s, fine sulphur, large flower, - - - - 4tod5 Rival Prince of Orange, Widnall’s, light orange, - - - 5to6 Rival Rose, Goodwin’s, superb ruby rose, cupped, = - - 3to4 *Rienzi, Widnall’s, crimson and puce, mottled, - - - 4tod Rosa Supurba, Elphinstone’s, extra fine ruby rose, - - - 5to6 Rose Superior, Girling’s, very splendid, perfect flower, - - 5to6 §Rose Unique, Ansell’s, light. rose, fine centre, and free bloomer, 4 to 5 Rosetta, Muyhew’s, fine ruby rose, - - - : - - 5to6 76 DAHLIA CATALOGUE. t Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. Feet high. Rouge et Noir, Ansell’s, deep crimson, shaded with dark purple, 4 to 5 *Ruby Superb, Wailter’s, fine ruby red, excellent form, free bloomer, 5 to 6 Royal Standard, Whale’s, rich rosy purple, - - - - 5to6 §Satirist, Mortlock’s, lilac purple, fine form and habit, - - 4to5 Scarlet Defiance, Cowdrey’s, fine bright scarlet, - - - 4tod *Scarlet Defiance, Cousins’s, vivid scarlet, - - - - dto6 §Sir R. Sale, Smith’s, crimson purple, cupped petals, with fine centre, 4 to 5 §Sir F. Johnston, Hillier’s, rosy purple, fine form, - - - 4to5 Spectabile, Widnall’s, light primrose, with purple margin, - 4to5 Springfield Major, Gaines’s, large dark crimson purple, - - 6to7 *Stella, fine crimson, cupped petals, constant and free, - - 4tod *Striata Formosissima, Bates’s, blush white, striped and spotted with crimson, - - - - - - - - 4tod §St. George, Fawcett’s, deep rose, good form, - - - - 5 to6 §Stanley, Jones’s, fine rose blush, excellent form, - - - 5to6 §Surprise, Oakley’s, bright scarlet, finely tipped with white, - 4to5 *Sulphurea Elegans, Jones’s, sulphur yellow, - - - - 5to6 *Suffolk Hero, Girling’s, fine dark maroon, - - - - 4to5 Sunbury Hero, Wilmer’s, yellow, tipped with red, - - - 5to6 *Sylph, Widnall’s, white, edged and mottled with rose, = - 4tod +T.G. Percival, Schmitz’s, large dark crimson, round petals, fine form, 4 to 5 *Tournament, Catlewsh’s, ruby scarlet, extra fine, - - - 5to6 *Triumph, Milliez’s, white, tinted with purple, superb flower, - 5 to 6 §Turville’s Essex Triumph, very dark, almost black, - - 3to4 §Twyford Perfection, Young’s, deep ruby, cupped petals, - - 5to6 Unique, Ansell’s, light yellow, tipped with red, - - - 4to5 Unique, Walter’s, white, delicately laced with pale lilac, - - 5to6 Upway Rival, light purple, fine form, > . - . - 4tod *Uxbridge Magnet, Catlewgh’s, mottled purple, fine large flower, 5 to 6 *Vesta, Wells’s, blush, fine bold flower, - - - - - 4to5 Victory, Knight's, rich dark crimson, - - e . - 5to6 Village Maid, beautiful light blush, ee eS) Viola, Read’s, rose colour, tipped with red, - ° - - 4to5 §Virgil, Mowntjoy’s, ruby purple, - - - - - - 4tod Virgin Queen, clear white, finely formed flower, - ° - 5to6 +Washington Irving, Schmitz’s, light purple, free bloomer, - 5to6 § Westbury Rival, Huli’s, puce, fine form and constant bloomer, - 4 to 5 § White Defiance, Langelier’s, very fine white, good form, - - 3to4 *Will Watch, Girling’s, shaded ruby, constant and fine, - - 5to6 Windmill Hill Rival, white and violet, neat flower, - - - 4to5 *Winterton Rival, Nelson’s, light yellow, good form, - - - 5to6 Xarifa, Oxer’s, pale yellow, fine form, - - - ‘ - 4tod5 Yellow Climax, Wildman’s, extra fine yellow, perfect shape, - 4 to 5 Yellow Defiance, Coa’s, brilliant yellow, - E = = - 4tod +Yellow Vietory, Schmitz’s, brimstone yellow, finely cupped, - 4 to 5 «York and Lancaster, fine rose pink, free bloomer, - - - 5to6 Zeno, Elphinstone’s, beautiful purple, - = = 5) - 4tod , DOUBLE DAHLIA. 77 As some amateurs are apt to fancy that the most economi- cal method of obtaining a supply of Dahlias in their gardens, is to raise them from seed, it may be necessary to remind such, that the trouble and expense of raising any quantity of seedlings, is equal to that attending the cultivation of the same number of the choicest varieties; and when it is con- sidered that the greatest proportion of a plantation may be single, and semi-double, and that but few double flowering plants can be expected, equal to those above described, it must appear evident that it is the interest of such persons as desire to have their gardens unencumbered with plants that are not calculated to ornament the same, to procure plants or roots of such varieties as have been tested, and highly recommended, as is the case with all those described in the preceding Catalogue, and also those which are generally sold by the regular florists. But as I am writing for young gar- deners, it may be necessary to state, that although new varie- ties ave usually raised from seed of the finest double flowers, some successful propegators prefer that procured from semi- double varieties. Sow seed toward the end of February, gr early in March, in pots, and plunge them in a moderate hot-bed, or seed may be deposited in the earth of the beds, in shallow drills, and the beds attended to as directed in the Calendar for February and March. Nothing is more simple than the cultivation of Dahha roots. In March or April, they will, if properly kept through the winter, begin to sprout around the old stems and tubers. To forward these sprouts in growth, the roots should either be buried in light earth on the top of a moderate hot-bed, or else potted, and then set in a warm room, or green-house, and watered. As soon as the shoots have grown to the length of two or three inches, the roots may be divided in such a manner as to have a good strong shoot attached to a piece of the tuber, or old stem; each of these will, if pro- perly managed, make a plant. Those who may commence cultivating at an early season, should put the plants thus ve 78 DOUBLE DAHLIA, , separated into small pots, and keep them in a growing state until about the middle of May, at which time they may be turned out of the pots with the balls of eartn entire, and planted in the open borders, from three to four feet from each other.* Let the ground be well pulverized, and enriched with good old manure, before the plants are set out. If the top soil be shallow, and the subsoil inferior, it would be bene- ficial to the plants to dig holes to the depth of from a foot to eighteen inches, and then replenish the earth with good rich compost, consisting of two thirds of fresh loam, and one third of well-rotted manure. Many cultivators have found late planting to suit better than early; and I myself have had more perfect flowers from plants set out about the middle of June, than from those planted in May: this is easily accounted for. In July and August the weather is generally hot, which brings the most forward plants into bud at an early season, and in the event of a continuation of hot, dry weather, such buds fail to pro- duce perfect flowers; whereas those plants which are set out late, keep growing through the hot weather, and produce their buds just in time to receive all the benefit of the au- tumnal rains. From a consideration of these circumstanves, I think early in June the satest time to set out Dahlia plants; and if those persons who have no convenience to force their roots, set them out in May, in ground prepared as before directed, they will generally succeed very well, provided they take care to cover them in case of a cold change of weather. The roots may be thus cultivated entire, as is frequently done; but if it be desired to have them parted, this business can be easily accomplished without disturbing the roots, and the offsets may be planted in the ground separately or potted. = In order to obtain an extra number of plants from any choice varieties, cuttings are frequently taken from the shoots when about three inches in length, which are planied in nursery-pots, and cultivated in hot-beds; they require to be shaded from the sun, by mats, for the first fortnight, after which they may be gradually innured to the air, and treated as plants raised in the ordinary way. GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OR SWORD LILY. 79 Previous to setting out the plants, it will be necessary to provide for their preservation through the varied changes of the season, or a sudden gust of wind may destroy the expec- tations of a year. The branches of the Dahlia are extremely brittle, and, therefore, a good stout pole, or neat stake, should be driven down near each root, of a suitable height, so that the branches, as they progress in growth, may be tied thereto at every joint, which may be done with shreds of matting or twine. If the poles be in readiness, they are much more easily fixed at the time of planting the Dahlias than afterward ; but it may be done at any time after the ground has been softened by rain, provided it be not delayed too long, so as to subject’ the plants to risk. Sometimes a few forward buds of the Dahlias will exhibit their premature beauties to the beams of a July and August sun; but their lustre is quickly dim- med. The latter end of September, sometimes all October, and part of November, witness the Dahlia in all its glory ; and dwarf plants, cultivated in pots, will sometimes blossom at Christmas; but they require more than ordinary care, at a late period of their growth. GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OR SWORD LILY. Or this genus of bulbs there are about fifty species, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They produce flowers of vari- ous colours, in August and September, and are well worthy the attention of those who cultivate tender exotic plants. They may be planted in September or October, about an inch deep, in pots, which must be kept in a green-house or light room, and watered sparingly until they begin to grow. The following are known to be superb species and varieties : G. alalus, or Wing-Flowered, producing bright orange- coloured flowers. G. blandus produces flowers of a beautiful blush rose colour. 80 GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OR SWORD LILY. G. Byzantinus, or Turkish Flag, has large delicate purple flowers. G. cardinalis. This variety produces very large flowers of superb scarlet, spotted with white. G. floribundus, or Cluster Flower, produces large flowers of white and pink colour. The Gladiolus Natalensis, or Psittacina, is perhaps the most desirable to cultivate of all others. It blossoms freely, and the colours are exquisitely beautiful. In its progress of blooming, it exhibits variable colours, as vermilion, red, yel- low, green, white, crimson, &c., which brighten, as the lower ‘ arrives at perfection, to the brilliancy of a rainbow. Another good quality displays itself in the bulb, which, if property managed, will yield an abundance of offsets; these being cultivated, will flower the third year in perfection, and thus continue to multiply perpetually. I have named September and October as the time for planting, because it is considered the preferable season for ‘most bulbs; but if these be preserved in good condition through the wintei until early in April, and then planted in a soil consisting of about one half fresh loam, equal parts of leaf mould, and sand, well mixed, they may be forwarded in a warm room, green-house, or moderate hot-bed, until settled warm weather, and then turned out of the pots into a border, where they can be shaded from the sun at noon- day ; this will induce each of them to throw up three or four stems, from three to four feet high, each stem producing five or six gorgeous blossoms, in great perfection. Those planted in the autumn or winter, may also be turned out of the pots in June; and, from the fibres having taken substantial root in the soil before transplanting, such plants may be taken up again in August, or early in September; and on being planted in large pots, they may be removed, so as to perfect their bloom, within view of the parlour or sitting-room, which will afford considerable amusement and gratification. HYACINTH. 81 HYACINTH. “Hail to thee! hail, thou lovely flower! Still shed around thy sweet perfume, Still smile amid the Wintry hour, And boast e’en then a spring-tide bloom. Thus hope, mid life’s severest days, Still smiles, still triumphs o’er despair ; Alike she lives in pleasure’s rays, And cold affliction’s Winter air.” Tere are, as has been already stated, about thirteen hundred varieties of this family of plants, comprising all the various hues, as white, pink, red, yellow, blue, purple, crim- son, &c., and some of those with various coloured eyes. They begin to produce their flowers in the open borders early in April, on short erect stems covered with florets or small bells ; each floret is well filled with petals rising toward the centre, and is suspended from the stem by short strong footstalks, the longest at the bottom, and the uppermost florets stand so erect as to forma pyramid. A plantation, or bed of these, has a very beautiful appearance, provided they are well attended to. In planting them, which should be in the months of October or November, care should be taken to have the colours so diversified as to suit the fancy; they may be placed in short rows across the bed, about eight inches apart, and from three to four inches deep, measuring from the top of the bulb, and covered up at the setting in of win- ter, as before recommended for bulbs in general. Those who may have a fine collection, should have an awning erected in the spring, to screen them from the chill- ing blast, and also from drenching rains and the noonday sun; and they should be looked over as soon as they make their appearance above ground, to see if they are all perfect and regular ; if faulty or inferior bulbs should appear to have been planted in a conspicuous part of the bed, by accident or mistake, they can be taken out, and by shortening the rows, others may be substituted with a trowel. When all are regulated, look over them frequently, and as the stems 82 IRIS, OR FLOWER DE LUCE.—IXIAS. shoot up, tie them to wires, or small rods, with shreds of bass matting or thread, being careful not to injure the florets. In about six weeks after they have done flowering, the bulbs may be taken up, and managed as recommended for bulbs in general, in a former page. IRIS, OR FLOWER DE LUCE. Tuere are two distinct species of plants cultivated under the name of Flower de Luce, each consisting of several varie- ties. The bulbous species and varieties are designated as English, Spanish, Chalcedonian, and American. These, if introduced into the flower borders, and intermixed with perennial plants of variable colours, have a very pretty appearance when planted in clumps or patches. This may be done in the month of October, by taking out a spadeful of earth from each place allotted for a plant, and then insert- ing three or four bulbs, about two inches deep. If the ground be poor, some rich compost may be dug in around the spot before the bulbs are planted ; and if several sorts be planted in the same border, let them be of various colours. ‘The tuberous-rooted are of various colours, as blue, yellow, brown, and spotted ; they are easily cultivated, and flower freely m a loose soil inclining to moisture, if planted in March or April. IXIAS. ‘Tess are tender, but very free flowering bulbs, producing oa their stems, which vary in height from six inches to two feet, very delicate flowers of various colours, as orange, blush, white, purple, green, crimson, scarlet, and some have two or three colours blended in the same plant. There are, in all, upward of twenty species, which may be cultivated in the green-house, by planting the bulbs in pots in September or October, and placing them near the light, and watering them sparingly until they begin to shoot. JONQUILS—-LACHENALIAS—LILIES. 83 JONQUILS. Tuts is a hardy race of bulbs, and produces very delicate yellow flowers early in May. There are different varieties, some of which are single flowering, and others double. Their fragrance is very grateful, being similar to that of Jasmines. The bulbs may be planted about two inches deep in the flower borders, or in pots, in October, or before the setting in of winter ; they flower better the second year than in the first, and, therefore, should not be moved and replanted oftener than once in three years. LACHENALIAS. TueEse are tender little bulbs, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. There are supposed to be in all about forty species and varieties. Those most cultivated with us are the Lach- enaha quadricolor, and L. tricolor, which are very beautiful when in full bloom, exhibiting flowers of various colours on a stem of from six inches to a foot in height, and much ir the character of Hyacinths. The colours, which are yellow, scarlet, orange, green, &c., are very pure and distinct. JL. nervosa, L. orchoides, L. punctata, and L. rubida, are all excellent species, and worthy of cultivation. They may be planted from one to two inches deep, in small pots, in the months of August and September, and watered but sparingly until they begin to grow. LILIES. Tuere are several plants under this name, of different zenera, some of which are indigenous. The Canada Lily, with yellow spotted drooping flowers, may be seen in wet meadows toward the last of June, and early in July. The Philadelphia Lily blooms also in July; its flowers are red. 64 LILIES. There are some pure white, and others yellow, growing in various parts of the country. Among the foreign genera are several species. Of the Mariagon, or Turk’s Cap Lilies, there are some beautiful varieties; as the Caligula, which produces scarlet flowers ; and there is one called the Crown of Tunis, of purple colour; beside these, are the Double Violet Flamed, the White, the Orange, and the Spotted; these are all hardy, and may be planted in various parts of the garden, by taking out a square foot of earth, and then, after manuring and pulverizing it, the bulbs may be planted therein before the setting in of winter, at different depths, from two to four inches, according to the size of the bulbs. Some of the Chinese varieties are very beautiful, as the Tiger, or Leopard Lily, and the dwarf red, Leliwm con- color. There are others with elegant silver stripes, which are very showy, and there is one called Liliwm superbum, that has been known to have twenty-five flowers on a single stalk. Beside those above enumerated, there are some others which are generally cultivated in green-houses, as the Calla, or Ethiopian Lily; and the following, which have been known to endure our winters, by protecting them with dung, &c.: Lilium longiflorum, in two varieties ; these pro- duce on their stalks, which grow from twelve to eighteen inches high, beautiful rose coloured flowers, streaked with white, which are very sweet-scented. These roots are sometimes kept out of the ground until spring, and then planted in the flower borders, but they should be preserved carefully in sand or dry mould. Lilium Japonicum: of these there are two varieties, which produce several stalks at once, yielding very showy flowers. One of the varieties is blue flowered, and the other produces flowers of the purest white. NARCISSUS.—ORNITHOGALUM, OR STAR OF BETHLEHEM. 85 NARCISSUS. THE species and varieties of this plant are numerous. The Incomparable is perfectly hardy, and produces its flowers in April, which are called by some pasche, or paus flowers, by others, butter and eggs; perhaps because their bright yellow petals are surrounded with large white ones. Some persons dislike the smell of these, and it is said that the odour has a pernicious effect upon the nerves; but the white fragrant double, as well as the Roman, and Polyanthus Narcissus, are free from this objection, being of a very grateful and agree- able smell. Some of these are justly held in great esteem for their earliness, as well as for their varied colours. The Grand Monarque de France, the Belle Legoise, and some others, have white flowers with yellow cups. The Glorieux has a yellow ground, with orange coloured cups; beside these are some white and citron coloured, as the Luna, and others entirely white, as the Rein Blanche and Morgenster. All these varieties are very suitable either for the parlour or green-house, and may be planted in pots, from October to December, from two to three inches deep. The double Ro- man Narcissus are very sweet-scented ; if these be planted in pots, or put into bulb glasses in the month of October, they will flower in January and February. Polyanthus Narcissus are more delicate than Hyacinths or Tulips; when they are planted in the open border, they should be covered about four inches with earth, and before the setting in of winter, it is advisable to cover the beds with straw, leaves, or litter, to the depth of six or seven inches, and to uncover them about the middle of March. ORNITHOGALUM, OR STAR OF BETHLEHEM. THERE are about fifty varieties of these bulbs, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, some of which are from_three to five inches in diameter, and shaped similar to a pear; others 86 OXALIS. are much like Hyacinth bulbs. Among those cultivated in America are the O. lactewn, and the O. awreum; the former produces fine white flowers, and the spike is about a foot in length; and the latter produces flowers of a golden colour, in contracted racemose corymbs. The O. marilimun, or Sea Squill, is curious; from the centre of the root rise seve- ral shining glauceus leaves, a foot long, two inches broad at the base, and narrowing to a point. If kept in a green-house, these are green during the winter, and decay in the spring; then the flower-stalk comes up rising two feet, naked half way, and terminated by a pyramidal thryse of white flowers.. These bulbs are generally cultivated in the green-house, and require a compost consisting of about one half fresh loam, one third leaf mould, and the remainder sand, in which they may be planted in September. When cultivated in the gar- den, they should be planted four or five inches deep, and protected with dung, &c. They produce their flowers early in June. OXALIS. Tue Oxalis is a native of the Cape of Good Hope; the species are numerous, and their roots are very small bulbs, articulated, jointed, or granulated, in a manner peculiar to this genus. They produce curious flowers of various hues, yellow, purple, rose, red, white, striped, vermilion colour, &c. The bulbs should be planted in very small pots, in August and September, in a compost consisting of about two thirds loam, and one third leaf or light mould, and treated in the same manner as other Cape Bulbs. They increase in a pe- culiar manner, by the parent bulb striking a fibre down from its base, at the extremity of which is produced a new bulb for the next year’s plant, the old one perishing. These plants will flower freely in a green-house. PEONY. “OT PHONY. “Peonia round each fiery ring unfurls, Bares to the noon’s bright blaze her sanguine curls.” Or this genus of splendid plants there are known to be about twenty species, and as many varieties. It is said that the Peonia officinalis rubra, or common double red Pzony, was introduced into Antwerp upward of two centuries ago, at which time it was sold at an enormous price. It has since been highly esteemed in Europe and America, and is to be found in all well-established gardens, exhibiting its vivid crimson petals early in June. Many superb species have of late years been brought from China, a few of which may be noticed, with some others which are in very great repute. Peonia alba Chinensis is one of the finest of the herbaceous sorts. The flowers are white, tinged with pink at the bot- tom of the petals. P. edulis whitléji has also white flowers, which are very large and splendid. P. edulis fragrans, is a fine large double scarlet variety, and produces flowers perfumed like the rose. P. humei has beautiful large double dark blush-coloured flowers. P. paradoxa fimbriata produces fringed double red flowers, which are very beautiful. These are all hardy, and may be planted about four inches deep in the garden, in October or November. The flowers exhibit themselves to the best advantage when planted on a bed that is elevated, and of a circular form. The following are half hardy and half shrubby ; these have been known to survive the winter by being well pro- tected, but are kept much better in a green-house ; and they also exhibit their flowers to greater advantage than when exposed to the full sun. P. moutan Bankshkii, or Tree Peony, produces very large double blush flowers in abundance, with feathered edges to every petal. This variety is highly deserving of cultivation. 88 TULIP. P. moutan rosea is a fine rose-coloured double variety, and produces very splendid flowers. P. moulan papaveracea produces very large white flowers, with pink centres. This splendid variety frequently bears flowers from nine to eleven inches in diameter. Beside the above, are several others of various colours, some of which are semi-double. TULIP. * For brilliant tints to charm the eye, What plant can with the Turrp vie? Yet no delicious scent it yields To cheer the garden or the fields ; Vainly in gaudy colours dressed, ’Tis rather gazed on than caressed.” Tue Tulip is a native of the Levant, and has been in cul- tivation nearly three centuries. It may be justly entitled the King of Flowers, for the brilliancy and endless combination of all colours and shades. The varieties of the Tulip are very numerous, and are divided into different classes. Those cultivated in regular beds by amateurs are rose-coloured, bybloemen, and bizarres. There are a great many beautiful varieties, denominated Parrot Tulips, which have notched petals, striped or diversified with green; and also some very dwarfish kinds, both single and double, which are generally cultivated in parlours and green-houses. Mr. T. Hogg, of Paddington, near London, has published a work, entitled ‘ A Treatise on the cultivation of Florists’ Flowers,’ which comprises the Tulip, Carnation, Auricula, Ranunculus, Polyanthus, Dahlia, German and China Asters, Seedling Heart’s Ease, and New Annuals. In that work, which is dedicated to Queen Adelaide, the author remarks that the cultivation of the Tulip is one of the most fascina- ting and pleasing pursuits imaginable, and that. when “ The Tulip mania has fairly got hold of any one, it sticks to him TULIP. 89 like the skin on his back, and remains with him the rest of his life.’ He instances a Mr. Davey, of Chelsea, as being in his seventy-fifth year, and in whose breast the fancy for Tulips was so predominant, that in the autumn of 1832, he was induced to part with a hundred sovereigns for one sin- gle Tulip, named “ Miss Fanny Kemble.” Perhaps a better definition of what constitutes the properties of a good Tulip, could not be given than a description of this ‘‘ precious gem, or loveliest of all Tulips;” but, lest my readers should con- clude that the old man was in his dotage, | would inform them that this favourite bulb was purchased of the executors of the late Mr. Clarke, with whom it originated, and that it had not only been the pet of its owner, but had excited the envy and admiration of all the amateurs who went to view it. “This precious gem, a bybloemen Tulip, was raised from one of Mr. Clarke’s seedling breeders, and broke into colour three years ago; it has produced two offsets since, and is adapted to the second or third row in the bed; the stem is firm and elastic; the foliage full and broad, of a lively green ; the cup large, and of the finest form; the white pure and wholly free from stain; the pencilling on the petals is beau- tifully marked with black or dark purple, and the feathering uniform and elegant; it preserves its shape to the last, the outer leaves not sinking from the inner; in a word, it is con- sidered the first flower of its cast, and the best that has ever been produced in England.” The article in the work already alluded to, on the culti- vation of Tulips alone, occupies ninety-six pages; IJ, there- fore, cannot attempt any thing more than an abridgement of the author’s ideas on some important points. Those of my readers who may desire full information, are referred to the work itself, which may be obtained of Mr. G. C. Thorburn. The following description may serve to govern the choice of amateurs. Tulips exhibited at the show are, in general, classed and distinguished as follows: Flamed Bizarres, Feathered Bizarres, Flamed PBybloemens, F eathered Bybloc- g* 90 TULIP, mens, Flamed Roses, Feathered Roses, and Selfs, or plain- coloured. A Bizarre Tulip has a yellow ground, marked with pur-. ple or scarlet of different shades ; it is called flamed when a broad or irregular stripe runs up the middle of the petals, with short abrupt projecting points, branching out on each. side; fine narrow lines, called arched and ribbed, often extend also from this broad stripe to the extremity of the leaves, the: colour generally appearing strongest in the inside petals; a Tulip, with this broad coloured stripe, which is sometimes called beamed or splashed, is, at the same time, frequently feathered also. It is called feathered when it is without this broad stripe ; but yet it may have some narrow lines, joined or detached, running up the centre of the leaf, sometimes branching out and carved toward the top, and sometimes without any spot or line at all; the petals are feathered more or less round the edges or margin inside and out ; the pencilling or feath- ering is heavy or broad in some, and light or narrow in others, sometimes with breaks or gaps, and sometimes close and continued all round. A Bybloemen Tulip has a white ground, lined, marked, striped, or variegated with violet or purple, only of various shades ; and whether feathered or flamed, is distinguished by the same characters and marks which are pointed out and applied to the Bizarred Tulips. A fiose Tulip is marked or variegated with rose, scarlet, crimson, or cherry colour, on a white ground; and the Feathered Rose is to be distinguished from the Flamed by the same rules as described before; the Rose is very often oth feathered and flamed. A Self, or plain-coloured Tulip, properly so called, is either white or yellow, and admits of no farther change; other plain-coloured Tulips, whether red or purple, are called breeders, and are hardly worthy of being exhibited. Mr. Hogg informs us, that £100, say $500, judiciously expended TULIP. 91 at the present time, will give a moderate-sized bed, that shall contain the greater part of the finest varieties grown; such a bed as £250 would not have purchased twelve or fourteen years ago. To describe minutely the mode of planting a regular bed of Tulips would exceed our limits; suffice it to state that the name of every bulb should be written in a book, and that they should be so classed as to have the varied colours show advantageously ; to this end, the tallest should be allot- ted for the middle of the bed, and others in regular grada- tion, so as to have the most dwarfish on the sides. The bulbs must be covered with good mould to the depth of three inches from the top of the bulb on the sides of the bed, and about four inches in the middle. Let a small spoonful of clean drift sand be used-around each bulb, and see that the bed be left sufficiently round from the middle to the edges. The beginner must understand that no unsightly tallies, or number sticks, are to distinguish the Tulips; but that he must adopt a sort of ground plan, dividing the whole bed into rows of seven bulbs across; for example, write down the names and places of the Tulips in the first row, and con- tinue the same form all through to the other end of the bed. Row First, No. 1. Fenelon, - - - - - - thisisa Bybloemen. 2. Duchess of Clarence, - - cs Rose-coloured. 3. Charlemagne, - - - - « — Bybloemen. 4, Louis the Sixteenth, - - cp Bybloemen. 5, Memnon, - >. -..-,°-. > “ Bizarre. 6. Volney, - - - - - - ms Bybloemen. 7. Lady Crewe,- - - - - ef Rose-coloured. Good fresh loam, taken from under healthy grass sods, is the most suitable soil for Tulips to grow in; under which should be buried, to the depth of a toot, about two inches’ thickness of well-rotted cow or horse droppings. The reason for placing the dung’so low is, that the fibres may get down 92 TUBEROSE. to it, (which they will do,) and that the bulbs may not be injured by it, as is apt to be the case if too much dung is used around them. The best time for planting the bulbs is early in November, and the beds should be made a fortnight previous, in order that the earth may become sufficiently settled. If severe frosts set in after the Tulips show themselves above ground in the spring, some protection should be given; single mats placed over hoop bends answer very well; and at the time of blooming, an awning should be erected over them, to screen them from the intense heat of the sun, which awning should be sufficiently spacious to admit of persons walking under it, to view the beautiful flowers to the great- est possible advantage. TUBEROSE. Turs fragrant and delightful flower has been cultivated in English flower gardens for upward of two centuries; there the bulbs are generally cultivated in pots early in the spring, and transferred to the flower borders as soon as it becomes settled warm weather; for they are very tender. They generally succeed very well here, if planted at once in the open border toward the end of April, and produce flowers, which are pure white, and highly odoriferous, on a stem three to four feet high. The buibs produce a number of offsets, which should be preserved with the parent plants through the winter, and then parted off and planted by themselves, in April or early in May, to produce flowering roots for the ensuing year. These roots thrive best in a light rich soil, well pulverized, in which they should be planted about two inches deep, not forgetting to take them up again before the approach of winter. TIGER FLOWER. 93 TIGER FLOWER. Prruars there is no flower treated of in this work that is more beautiful than some of the species of the genus Tigridia. Like all Mexican bulbs, these are tender, and should either be cultivated in the green-house, or carefully preserved until settled warm weather, and then planted in good light soil, in a sheltered situation. A bed of these beautiful flowers would afford as much gratification to some amateurs as a bed of Tulips. The Tigridia conchiflora is of a rich yellow colour, tinged and spotted with white and crimson; the colours are very vivid and finely contrasted. The Tizridia pavonia is of the brightest scarlet, tinged and spotted with brilliant yellow. The corolla, which is about four inches in diameter, is com- posed of six petals; the outer petals are thrown backward, and exhibit the blossom in all its splendour, which exists only a single day; but as if to compensate for its transient visit, each plant will produce a number of flowers; and where a bed of them can be collected, they will amuse their admirers for several weeks from July to September. In such case the bulbs may be planted about two inches deep, say nine by fifteen inches apart, toward the end of April, or early in May, and taken up again in October, to preserve for plant- ing the ensuing year. 94 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS, IN POTS OR GLASSES, IN THE WINTER SEASON. Tue culture of bulbous roots in a green-house, or light room, during the winter, is comparatively easy, provided two points be attended to: the first is to keep them vear the light, and turn the pots or glasses round frequently, to prevent their growing crowded ; and the second is, when the plants have done growing, to give them little or no water; for want of attention to these points, bulbs have been known to produce foliage year after year, without showing any sign of blossoms. All bulbs, at a certain period of the year, are in a dor- mant condition ; this, in a state of nature, is invariably after the seed has ripened ; but as, in a green-house, many of this family do not ripen seed, the cultivator should watch the period when the leaves show indications of decay ; at which time, the supplies of water should be lessened, and shortly afterward the earth should be suffered to get dry, and remain so until the season returns when the bulbs re-germinate. Many sorts of bulbs will keep best in pots, under the soil, in a dry, shady place, and in the same temperature as that in which they are in the habit of growing; but others, such as the Hyacinth, Tulip, Narcissus, &c., may be taken out of the soil, and preserved as before directed, until the return of the proper season for replanting. Dutch bulbous roots intended for blooming in pots during the winter season should be planted during the months of % CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN ROOMS. 95 October and November, and be left in the open air until it begins to freeze ; and then be placed in the green-house, or in aroom, exposed tothe sun. They will need occasional mo- derate waterings until they begin to grow; then they should have abundance of air in mild weather, and plenty of water from the saucers underneath the pots, while in a growing state ; and should be exposed as much as possible to the sun, air, and light, to prevent the foliage from growing too long, or becoming yellow. For this purpose, single Hyacinths, and such as are desig- nated earliest among the double, are to be preferred. Sin- gle Hyacinths are by some held in less esteem than double ones ; their colours, however, are more vivid, and their bells, though smaller, are more numerous; some of the finer sorts are exquisitely beautiful ; they are preferable for flowering in winter to most of the double ones, as they bloom two or three weeks earlier, and are very sweet-scented. Roman Narcissus, double Jonquils, Polyanthus Narcissus, double Narcissus, and Crocuses, also make a fine appearance in the parlour during winter. It is a remarkable circumstance of the Crocus, that it keeps its petals expanded during tole- rably bright candle or lamp light, in the same manner as it does during the light of the sun. If the candle be removed, the Crocus closes its petals, as it does in a garden when a cloud obscures the sun; and when the artifivial light is restored, they open again, as they do with the return of the direct soiar rays. r Hyacinths and other bulbs intended for glasses should be placed in them about the middle of November, the glasses being previously filled with pure water, so that the bottom of the bulb may just touch the water; then place them for the first ten days in a dark room, to promote the shooting of the roots; after which expose them to the light and sun as much as possible; they will blossom without the aid of the sun, but the colours of the flowers will be inferior. The water should be changed as often as it becomes impure; 96 CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN ROOMS, draw the roots entirely out of the glasses, rinse the fibres in clean water, and also the glasses inside; care should be taken not to suffer the water to freeze, as it not only bursts the glasses, but often causes the fibres to decay. Whether the water be hard or soft, is of no great consequence; but soft, or rain water, is generally preferred, and it must be perfectly clear. Forced bulbs are seldum good for any thing afterward ; however, those who wish to preserve them, may immerse them wholly in water for a few days; and then, having taken them out, and dried them in the shade for a short time, they may be planted in a good soil, in the garden, where they will sometimes flower the next year. It does not clearly appear in what way the water operates when the bulb is wholly immersed; but it is certain that bulbs so treated increase in size and solidity, and have an incompara- bly better chance of flowering the second year, than those which have not been so treated; most probably their total immersion enables them to obtain a greater proportion of oxygen from the water. Nosegays should have the water in which their ends are inserted changed, on the same principal as bulbous roots; and a much faded nosegay, if not dried up, may often be recovered for a time, by covering it with a glass bell, or cup, or by substituting salt water for fresh. Very fine Hyacinths have been grown in a drawing-room, in the following novel manner. A quantity of moss, classi- cally called hypnum, and vulgarly fog, was placed in a water- tight box, about eight or nine inches deep, into which the bulbs were placed, at the end of September, without mould, and duly watered ; the result of this experiment was highly favourable. 97 OBSERVATIONS ON THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. Havine already exceeded my limits, I am compelled to be brief in my observations on such ornamental plants as are generally cultivated in hot and green-houses. This descrip- tion of plants embraces those which are collected from vari- ous climates, and thrive best in a temperature and soil simi- lar to that in which nature first produced them: hence those who propagate exotic plants must provide suitable composts, and also separate departments, where the different degrees of heat may be kept up, according to their nature and description. Some of these are raised from seed sown in the spring, others by layers, suckers, and offsets detached from the old plants, and many by slips or cuttings, planted at different seasons of the year, according to their various: natures and state of the plants. Many kinds require the aid of glass coverings and bottom heat, created by fresh horse dung, tan, &c. [See Calendar and Index.] Were I to attempt to give directions for the propagation of ail the varieties of useful and ornamental exotic plants cultivated in various parts of our country, it would require several volumes. The catalogue of green-house plants alone, kept by the enterprising proprietor of the Linnean Botanic Garden, at Flushing, occupies fifty pages of close matter ; it would, therefore, be impossible to do justice to the subject without dividing upward of two thousand species of plants into classes, and treating of them under distinct heads; I shall, therefore, not attempt in this edition to write largely on the subject. ¢) 98 MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS: In order to render this work useful to those who may wish: to avail themselves of the pleasure of nursing some of those beauties of nature in dwelling or green-houses during the most chilling days of our severe winters, and to afford: amusement to the ladies at a season when our gardens are deprived of their lovliest charms, I shall notice some essen- tial points connected with the management of green-house plants in as explicit a manner as possible, and subjoin a brief catalogue of such species as are most generally cultivated, of which there are innumerable varieties; descriptions of which, with all the varied features of the floral kingdom, may be found in the voluminous works of Loudon, Sweet, Chandler, and other English writers.* The generality of those denominated green-house plants, and which are kept in rooms, should be placed where they can have the light of the sun, without being exposed to frost. Air, heat, and moisture are essential to the erowth of plants; but these should be given in due proportions, according to circumstances. In frosty weather they should * All the most popular English books on this subject, are imported by G. C. Thorburn, No, 15 John street. among which are the following : ‘Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Plants,’ illustrated by engravings and with figures of nearly ten thousand species, exemplifying several individuals belonging to every genus included in the work. Completed in one large volume. Svo.—$20. ; ‘Loudon’s Kncyclopedia of Gardening, comprising the Theory and ‘Practice of Horticulture, Floriculture, Arboriculture, and Landscape Gar- -dening ; including all the latest improvements. A new edition, in one large volume, Evo., closely printed, with upward of 700 engravings.—$ 12. ‘Chandler (of London) on the Camellia; containing ample directions for the cultivation of this fine plant, with a superb plate of all the present known varieties in England. 1 vol. 4to —$45. ‘Hortus Brittanicus ;’ a Catalogue of Plants cultivated in the gardens of Great Britain, arranged in natural orders.—¢6. “The British Flower Garden ;’ containing coloured fizures, and deserip- tions of all the most ornamental and curious plants ; with their scientific and Knglish name:; best method of cultivation and propazation; the heights they generally attain ; or any other information respecting them, that may be considered useful or interesting. By R. Sweet, F. L. S., &e. $ the drawings by f. D. Smith, fF, L. S$. Ind vols, Svo., calf, and continued in monthly numbers. A splendid work.—$100, MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 99 be kept from the external air, and watered very sparingly. When water is necessary, it should be applied in the morn- ing of a mild sunny day. The plants should be kept free from decayed leaves, and the earth at the top of the pots should be sometimes loosened to a moderate depth, and replenished with a portion of rich compost. Plants kept in private houses are often killed with kind- ness. The temperature of a room in winter need not be more than ten degrees above freezing. If plants are healthy, they may be kept so by attention to the preceding hints; unhealthiness generally arises from their being subjected to the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture, or from total neg- lect.* ‘ ’ In order that the ideas above advanced may be duly con- sidered, it may be useful to indulge in a more minute de- scription of the nature of plants, and to show in what man- ner the elements operate upon them. It is an acknowledged fact, that the roots of plants require moisture, and therefore penetrate the earth in search of it, and that the plants them- selves are greatly nourished by air, and spread their branches and leaves to catch as much as possible its enlivening influ- ence. Light also is so far essential, that there can be no colour without it; witness the blanching of celery and en- dive, where the parts deprived of light become white ; place * An amateur florist of this city has suggested the following hints in regard to the manazement of plants in rooms. He says that he keeps his plants in a room, the windows of which, having a southern exposure, will adm‘t the sun all day. The plants are placed on a table with rollers at- tached to the legs, which in moderate weather is kept as near to the glass as possible. In cold weather he removes the table into the middle of the room. and places a pail of water near the plants to attract the frost. He considers it a great mistake to suppose that plants kept in warm rooms re- quire much fire heat. on the contrary, he contends, that a moderate degree of cold will agree with plants much better than a very high temperature. He, however, considers it needless to attempt to keep plants in a cold room. the windows of which face the north. A southeastern. or even eastern exposure may answer without any fire, except in very cold wea- ther. Jt may be observed. farther, that excessive moisture injures plants more than drought, and that plants in general do not require water while the surface of the earth in the pots is moist. 100 MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. a plant in almost any situation, it will invariably show a ten- dency to turn to the light; the sunflower is a striking exam- ple of this singular fact. As the leaves supply the plant with air, and the fibres of the roots with nourishment, to strip off the leaves or destroy the fibres is to deprive it of part of its means of support. Having shown that air and water are essential to vege- tation, and light to its colour, experience shows us that heat, in a greater or less degree, is not less necessary to the growth of plants; it is therefore requisite, that in taking plants into our rooms, we should attend to these par- ticulars. The internal structure of plants consists of minute and imperceptible pores, which serve the same important pur- pose in the vegetable, as veins in the animal, system; they are the medium of the circulation of the sap in the former, as the veins are of the blood in the latter; but it is by no means settled as yet by physiologists how the food of plants is taken up into the system, and converted into their con- stituent parts. From the foregoing considerations and facts, it is evident, that, as air, heat, and moisture are each essential to vegeta- tion, water should only be given in proportion as heat and air are attainable. In the summer season, green-house plants may be exposed to the open air, from the early part of May until the end of September, by being placed on the ledges of windows, or on a stand erected for the purpose, or, in the absence of a nursery bed of flowering plants, they may be introduced into the regular flower-beds, to supply the place of such plants as may wither and die in the course of the summer, by being turned out of the pots and planted, or plunged in the earth with the pots. In the heat of the summer season, plants generally re- quire water every evening, and in the absence of dews, the earth about their roots may sometimes need a little in the morning; but experience shows, that the roots of plants MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 101 more frequently get injured from being soddened with wa- ter, than from being kept moderately dry. Having before intimated that exotic plants will generally thrive best in a temperature and soil similar to that in which nature first produced them, it may be necessary to remind the reader, that we have the means of obtaining suitable composts from our own soils, and from sand, decayed leaves, rotten dung, and various kinds of peat, bog, and rock mould ; these ingredients being judiciously mixed and prepared, may be suited to all the various kinds of plants, and should be used as occasion requires. As the roots of plants make considerable growth in the course of a summer, it will be necessary to examine them by turning them out of the pots; this may be done in the latter part of August or early in September, at which time all matted and decayed roots should be pared off, and the plants shifted into larger pots, which being filled with suita- ble compost, and watered, will be ready for removal into the house on the approach of cold nights, which is generally early in October. Green-house plants require an annual pruning, and should be occasionally headed down, in order that their size and appearance may be improved; the best time for doing this is soon after they have done flowering, and while they are in a growing state. Having endeavoured to furnish my readers with the arti- ficial means of preserving tender plants in a climate foreign to that in which nature first produced them, I shall call their attention to another class of plants well calculated for the windows of a house. I allude to the many beautiful varieties of the Chinese Chrysanthemum ; these are frequently cultivated in pots, and may be taken from the ground and put into pots, even when in full flower, without injury, and when the bloom is over, returned to the garden. In the spring following they will throw up an abundance of suckers. G* 102 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. The following list contains some of the best varieties of the Chrysanthemum, and are entitled to a place in every flower garden. In October and November, when the wan- ing year has left our gardens comparatively cheerless, these, with their various colours, deck them out in gayety, and pro- long the semblance of summer. They are perfectly hardy, and will brave our severest winters. The gold bordered red ;|Semi-double quilled do. |Quilled fine yellow. the petals ure vred,|\Paper white. Sulphur do. striped with golden|Quilled light purple. Superb clustered do. yellow. Expanded do. do. Small do. White quilled. Quilled yellow. Single flame yellow. Pale buff, or orange. Double Indian yellow. |Quilled pink. Changeable, red and Double Indiait white. |Quilled orange. orangzeon same plant.|Dark purple. Early crimson. Lilac quilled. Karly blush. Curled lilac. Rase-coloured, or pink. |Golden Lotus. Two-coloured inctirved. Lilac and white, change-|Quilled purple: Blush ranunculus. able, the flowers vary|starry purple. Late quilled purple. tu lilac, to white with|Park’s small yellow, fine.|Tasselled tilac. a purple centre, and|Quilled salmon. Tasselled yellow. to pure white. Semi-double quilled. Yellow waratah, Dark crimson, or Span-|Pale orange. Pale lilac. ish brown. — Cwo-coloured red. Large buff, superb. Straw coloured quilled. |Curled buff, or salmon. |Barclay’s. Golden yellow. Large lilac. Alton’s. Tasselled white. Late pale purple. Sabine’s. Chrysanthemums may be propagated from hardy cut- tings, and cach plant wiil produce several suckers, which may be separated every spring. As the flowers are liable to be injured by the rain in autumn, it is advisable to take up a few plants, and place them in a light room or green- house, which will preserve them for some time. Many people keep their late blooming plants in the house through the winter; this is a bad practice, as the heat and want of air will exhaust or destroy the plants altogether. If the flowers fade before hard frost prevails, it is best either to plunge the pots into the ground with the plants, or to turn them out of the pots and plant them, with the balls of earth éntire, into the borders of the flower garden. Early in May, such as may be intended for potting the ensuing season should be divided at the roots, if not potted, CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HGUSB PLANTS. i03 and planted, each kind by itself. One single stem is suffi- cient for a moderate sized pot, if the object be to have bushy plants; but if showy plants are desired, one of each of the varied colours may be selected for each pot, which should be sufficiently capacious to hold them without crowding them, as this will cause the plants to grow weak and slender. If such happens early in the summer, a stocky growth may be produced by clipping the tops, and they will bloom in great perfection in their usual season. INTRODUCTION TO THE CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. To promote brevity and avoid tautology, I here submit the following statement : That the directions accompanying our catalogue of An- nual, Biennial, and Perennial Flower Seed, will apply to such plants in the green-house department as are ordinarily raised from seed. That the directions annexed to the catalogue of Flower- ing and Ornamental Shrubs, including propagation by cut- tings, layers, &c., are applicable to a great portion of the plants hereinafter described, and that the exceptions are shown in the monthly calendar. That such Bulbous roots as are generally embraced in green-house catalogues, from their being adapted to artificial! culture, have been already treated of, under each head, in numerous articles; to which the reader is referred. That, with the exception of hot-house plants, which re- quire a uniformly warm climate to perpetuate their exis- tence, all such other tender and half-hardy plants as need ‘protection in winter, may come under the denomination of green-house plants; some species however, may, notwith- standing, be preserved in frames, pits, cellars, or warm rooms. 104 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. That many of those species designated thus § and thus f in our first two catalogues, are of such description; and as they have been treated of in the chapters thereto annexed, the following catalogue and explication will be necessarily brief, when compared with one general catalogue of exotic plants. DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE. Acacia, Of this and the Mimosa, which are by some con- sidered as one genus, there are upward of a hundred spe- cies and varieties, suited for artificial culture. The blossoms, which are generally straw colour and yellow, except the most tender, some of which are crimson, succeed each other from February to June. Agapanthus. A beautiful species of Lily, producing large blue flowers from April to June; some varieties have striped leaves and delicate white blossoms. Jiloe. Of this genus there are numerous species and va- rieties, some of which are very curious, being possessed of all the varied forms and figures peculiar to succulent plants. Some species flower annually from March to September, and all, except the Century Aloe, blossom frequently; the colours are generally yellow, pink, and red. The singular figure and habits of these plants render them desirable for green-house culture. Alstremeria, Of this genus of plants there are several species, which have tuberous roots. The flowers of the va- rieties are of different shades, as rose coloured, scarlet, yel- low, red, &c.; and some are variegated, as the Alstremeria psitiacina, which is red, yellow, and green, and the 2. tri- color, which is black, white, and yellow. They are beauti- ful plants when kept in good order. Arbutus, European Strawberry Tree. A half-hardy ever- green shrub, of which there are several species and varie- CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 105 ties, producing crimson and pink blossoms, and fruit which remain on the plant a considerable time. Ardesia, Chinese Ardesia. This is generally cultivated as a hot-house plant; and if kept in the green-house, should be placed in a warm situation. There are several species, producing oblong shining leaves, pink flowers, and red ber- ries, which are very ornamental. Aster argophyllus, Musk Plant. A plant of no great beauty, but esteemed by some for its musky fragrance; leaves ovate, lanceolate, and silky beneath. Aucuba Japonica. A half-hardy shrub, with pale green leaves spotted with yellow. It produces small purple blos- soms, but is desirable for its foliage only: to preserve which in good condition, shade in the summer is absolutely ne- cessary. Azalea. The Chinese species of Azalea are numerous and beautiful, producing blossoms of various hues, as white, purple, scarlet, yellow, &c., and some are striped and spot- ted, which succeed each other from February to May, under good cultivation.* Banksia. A genus of plants named in honour of Sir Joseph Banks, of which there are over twenty species, all curious in flower, and variable in foliage; colours, yellow and green. They generally blossom from May to August. Beaufortia. There are two species of this beautiful shrub, yielding scarlet and pink flowers from the sides of their stalks, from May to July. Bellis perennis. Daisy. This half-hardy dwarf species, of which there are several varieties, as recorded in our Peren- nial Catalogue, are worthy of farther notice, from their yield- * A skilful florist, Mr. William Russell, has some hybrids which he raised, by crosses between the different species of Azaleasand Rhododen- drons, both of the hardy and choicest green-house varieties. He has already flowered several plants which partake of the Rhododendron in the umbels, and embrace all the good qualities of the Azalea. He intends to propagate these rare plants for sale, at his establishment, in Brooklyn, Long Island. 106 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. ing thousands of button-formed flowers from January to July, or until checked by the summer heat, from which they should be screened, by being planted in a shaded border in the spring. The colours are white, red, and variegated, and some, called Hen and Chicken Daisies, grow in clusters. Bletia Tankervili. A delicate plant, producing spikes of purple flowers, similar to the Hyacinth, from April to July. Bowardia. Mexican Bouvardia. A beautiful plant, pro- ducing brilliant scarlet flowers from May to September, when carefully cultivated. Baronia. There are several species of this plant, natives of New Holland; the flowers of some are star-like, rose- coloured, and sweet-scented ; in perfection in April and May. Bruna. This species of plants have foliage similar to the Erica, but the leaves are three-cornered; the plants when young are very handsome. Brunia nodiflora produces chaste white globular flowers in abundance. There are several other varieties highly esteemed by amateurs. Brunsvigia Josephine. This cape bulb produces splendid rose-coloured flowers in large umbels, on a stem about two feet high. There are several other species, some of which produce scarlet, others purple, and variegated blossoms, in perfection, when cultivated in a warm green-house. Buddlea madagascariensis, This plant, when properly cultivated, will blossom freely during winter, producing spikes of orange-coloured flowers, of an agreeable fragrance. Buonapartea juncea. This is a curious low-growing plant, with long narrow leaves, and spikes of small blue flowers, which, when cultivated in a warm situation, will continue sometime in bloom. Burchellia. A dwarf evergreen shrub, producing orange- coloured flowers in large terminal clusters, from March to June. Cactus. Of this family of plants there are numerous species, supposed to be of different genera, from the varia- tion of their character and habits. Some are denominated CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 107 Cereus, others Epiphyllums, Mamillarias, ete. The night blooming Cereus is much celebrated. They all belong to the hot-house, but succeed well in a warm room or good green- ‘house. Some are formed into erect pyramids, others are of a trailing habit ; and all produce from the sides of their suc- culent stalks and leaves, beautiful crimson, scarlet, white, or pink flowers, from March to August. Calceolaria. Of this species of delicate dwarf plants, there are several splendid varieties annually raised from seed; producing red, yellow, and orange-coloured flowers from April to August, when shaded from the noonday sun ; they will otherwise suffer from heat. Calothamnus. A beautiful evergreen shrub, similar to a dwarf pine, producing searlet blossoms from the old wood, from April to November. Callicoma serratifolia. A beautiful plant, producing tufted yellow heads of flowers from May to July. Camellia. Of this admired winter-blooming genus of plants, there are several distinct species, the varieties from many of which multiply annually. Its durable glossy foliage, and splendid flowers, which excel those of any other plant, will insure it a pre-eminence in every green-house ; as in good. collections, flowers of various hues may be gathered from October to May. Cheiranthus. Under this title have been generally em- braced all those fragrant and beautiful half-hardy species of Biennial Plants known as Wall and Gilly Flowers; the lat- ter species is now, however, denominated Mathiola in our catalogues. The beautiful blossoms and delicious fragrance of these families, from February to June, entitle them to more than a passing notice. Their perfumes are exquisite. Cineraria cruenta. Canary Aster. A dwarf half-shrubby plant, producing purple flowers in April and May. Cineraria maritima. Silvery-leaved Ragwort, or Powdered Beau. A white plant, producing bright yellow globular flowers from April to June or July. 108 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. Cistus. Rock Rose. A half-hardy dwarf shrub, of whicl there are upward of twenty species, natives of Europe ; the flowers, which are white and purple, multiply abundantly in May and June. Citrus. Orange, Lemon, &c. This genus embraces the Orange, Lemon, Lime, Shaddock, &c., of each of which there are several varieties. They are indispensable in a good green-house, for their handsome evergreen foliage, and odor- iferous blossoms, and beautiful golden fruit, which by careful cultivation may be kept constantly on the plants. Those varieties with variegated, yellow, and green foliage, are very generally admired. Clethra arborea variegata. A fine sweet-scented shrub, producing spikes of white downy blossoms; the leaves are oblong and serrated, having a gold-coloured edge. Correa, A genus of dwarf shrubby plants, consisting of several species, producing their orange, white, red, and green blossoms frequently in the winter, and sometimes in May or June. Coromlla glauca. A desirable green-house dwarf shrub, yielding numerous sweet-scented yellow flowers in clusters, from January to April. There are other varieties which blossom in summer. Cotyledon orbiculata, Cape Navelwort. A succulent plant, producing finger-like suckers and successional joints, which blossom annually; the curiosity of the foliage, however, is its chief recommendation. Crassula. A species of dwarf succulent plants, producing scarlet and variegated wax-like flowers from April to June or July. Crinum amabile. A large beautiful flowering bulb, of which there are several species, chiefly calculated for hot- house oulture, where some varieties frequently yield three stems of beautiful crimson, purple, or white flowers in a year. Cypripedium insignis. This species is known by the name CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 109 of Lady’s Slipper plant; the flowers, which are green and ~ purple, have a waxy appearance, and are similar in shape to an Indian shoe. It should be cultivated in a warm, moist _ situation. f Daphne odora. A beautiful dwarf evergreen shrub, yield- ing white fragrant blossoms in many-flowered terminal heads, from December to March. There are other species and varieties, one of which has its leaves edged with yellow. Dianthus. Under this name are embraced the admirable species of Carnations, Picotees, Pinks, Sweet Williams, &c., recorded in our catalogue of Perennials; and which are in universal esteem for the fragrance and beauty of their flow- ers, which succeed each other from May to August. They are all hardy, except the Carnation and Picotee tribes, which are well deserving green-house or frame culture. Diosma, A dwarf genus of heath-leaved shrubs, producing numerous small flowers of a white colour from March to May. Some of the varieties are sweet-scented. Dryandrus. To this genus belong several species, similar to the, Banksias ; they are delicate plants, producing orange and straw coloured thistle-like flowers in abundance. Echeveria. This genus of succulent plants are natives of Mexico and California. Some of the species produce green and red blossoms; the flowers of the variety pulverulenta are ted, and the foliage is covered with powder, which gives it a beautiful appearance. Epacris. This is a native of New South Wales, of which there are several species, mostly erect-growing plants, vary- ing from two to four feet; the leaves are small, and the blossoms, which, in different varieties, are crimson, pink, purple, and white, are, under good cultivation, abundant trom January to June. Eranthemum. This species belong to the hot-house, and will not flower in perfection without plenty of heat. The Eranthemum pulchellum produces flowers of a fine blue colour from December to April; and the Eranthemum bicolor will 10 110 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. yield purple and white flowers from April to August, under good cultivation. Erica, Heath. Upward of five hundred species and varie- ties of this plant are cultivated in Great Britain, where a continued succession of bloom is kept up from January to December; the most prominent colours are white, scarlet, purple, yellow, and red. They are desirable plants to culti- vate in any country, as they furnish material for the bouquet in winter, but they must be screened from the noonday sun in summer, and only moderately watered; as extremes of drought or moisture are destructive to this family of plants. Erythrina, Coral plant. There are several species of this plant, chiefly adapted to the hot-house, producing long spikes of crimson or scarlet flowers. Some keep them in good condition in a green-house; they must, however, be well attended to, and frequently re-potted, which will sometimes induce them to bloom two or three times in a year. Escalloma. There are several species of this plant, some of which will survive the winters of our Southern States. When cultivated in a green-house as half-hardy shrubs, they yield their red, white, and pink flowers through- out a long season. Enonymus. This plant is called by some the variegated Camellia; the flowers are not very showy, but the silvery and golden edged foliage of the different varieties, render them very attractive. They are natives of China. Euphorbia. There are several species of this plant adapted to the green-house, some of which are beautiful, especially the E. splendens, and Poinsett’s scarlet, or Euphorbia Poin- seii?, They flower freely from December to May, if kept in a warm part of the house. Eupatorium elegans. A dwarf plant, producing white sweet-scented flowers early in the spring; to promote bushi- ness, the plant, after blossoming, should be closely pruned. Eutaxia myrtifoia. A. beautiful little evergreen shrub; foliage small, but very neat, furnishing numerous red and CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. LL] yellow-coloured blossoms from March to May, under good culture. Ficus elastica, India-rubber tree, and Frcus australis, are ‘both evergreen plants, and grow luxuriantly in a green- house ; the foliage, which is large and glossy, is pink on the under side. Ficus, Fig Tree. A plant easily cultivated, of which there are many species and varieties, which, kept in pots or tubs, in a temperature adapted to the Orange tree, will fruit . freely, and ripen two crops a year. Fuchsia, Lady’s Ear-drop. Of this beautiful shrub there are several varieties, producing clusters of small scarlet flowers, the stamens of which are encircled with a petal of purple; in bloom from April to September. Gardenia, Cape Jasmine. A very popular evergreen plant, producing white fragrant rose-like flowers from May to August. There are several species and varieties, some of which are more dwarfish than others, but all are desirable. Gelsemium nitidum, Carolina Jasmine. A beautiful climb- ing evergreen, producing in the month of May large yellow trumpet-like blossoms, of delicious fragrance. Gloxinia. A desirable herbaceous plant, of which there are several varieties, yielding beautiful showy flowers; colours, blue, lilac, and white. Gnapalium, Everlasting Flower. Of this plant there are several species or varieties, some of which yield clusters of yellow flowers, and others red, from March to June. Gnidia, Flax-leaved Gnidia. A dwarf shrub, of which there are several varieties, furnishing pretty tubular and corymbose straw-coloured flowers in the winter and spring. Grevillea. There are several species of this evergreen dwarf shrub, which are very handsome in flower and foliage. The flowers of some grow in racemose spikes, and of others on flowering branches; the colours are white, rose, green, and straw or light yellow. They yield seed, and are easily cultivated. 112 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. Heliotropium, Peruvian Heliotrope. A species of soft shrubby dwarf plants, which, when cultivated in a warm situation, will yield abundance of delicate blue or purple flowers from January to September. Helyehrysum, Eternal Flower. There are several species and varieties of this plant, producing soft downy foliage and durable flowers, which, if cut before they are too far advanced, will retain their splendour seyeral years. Hibbertia. A species of climbing evergreen shrubs, which yield fine yellow flowers in succession from May to Septem- ber, under good culture. Eibiscus Chinensis. This half-hardy herbaceous plant is worthy of a place in the green-house, as some species wilt yield flowers six inches in diameter, if well attended to and frequently watered ; the colours are crimson and blush. Hovea. This is a pea-flowering evergreen shrub, of which there are several species, natives of New South Wales. The Hovea celstt is a beautiful runner, yielding numerous blue flowers. Hoya, Wax Plant. A fine climbing species, adapted to the hot-house ; the leaves being succulent, green, and fleshy, they require considerable heat and but little water. Some produce pink flowers, and others white, in April and May. Hydrangea hortensis. The Hydrangea is a well-known deciduous, half-hardy, soft-wooded shrub, producing large pink balls of blossom, when cultivated in a shaded border, from May to October; and by mixing iron dust from a blacksmith’s shop with the soil, or by growing the plants in swamp earth, or mould from decayed leaves, the flowers will become blue. Z Hypericum, St. John’s Wort. A half-hardy little plant, producing yellow flowers from April to June. There are several species, some producing scarlet blossoms. Ilicum, Aniseed Tree. A dwarf species of shrub, the leaves of which, when rubbed, smell like anise; some pro- duce red, and others yellow flowers, in March and April. CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 113 Indigofera, Indigo Tree. A free flowering shrub, of which there are several species; the flowers, which grow in long pinnacles, are red, yellow, and pink. Jacarandus. A genus of evergreen shrubs, of easy cul- ture, containing five species, most of which produce blue or purple flowers, on loose branching pannicles, in abundance. Jambosa vulgaris. This species of evergreen shrub is generally called Rose Apple, from its producing rose-scented fruit, which is about an inch in diameter, and eatable. There are several varieties, yielding either white, rose, green, or straw-coloured flowers in erect spreading stamens. They are of easy culture. Jasminum, Jasmine. Of this favourite genus there are several species, of various complexions. The Catalonian Jasmine, or J. grandiflorwm, produces white fragrant blos- soms in winter; the Indian Jasmine, or J. odoratissumun, and also the J. revolutum, yield very sweet-scented yellow flowers from April to June, and the J. officinale, a climbing plant, blossoms through the summer. Justicia. The plants of this genus are generally cultiva- ted in the hot-house; some produce scarlet flowers in large terminale spikes, from December to March, and others purple. Kennedia. A beautiful evergreen climber, of which there are several species, producing blossoms of various hues, as scarlet, blue, crimson, and purple, from February to June. Lagerstrema, A half-hardy deciduous plant, the roots of which, if planted in the garden in March, will produce large spikes of red flowers, from May to August. Lantana. A genus of dwarf shrubs, which being culti- vated in the hot-house, or a warm green-house, will yield their blossoms in April and May; the species are of va- rious colours; yellow, orange, pink, white, purple, and va- riable. Laurus nobilis, Laurel. This evergreen shrub is by some esteemed for its fragrant leaves; there are several species 10* 114 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. distinguished as sweet bay, royal bay, &c., and some species are without scent. Lavendula, Lavender. A species of soft-wooded, half- hardy plants with narrow, scented leaves, yielding spikes of fragrant blue flowers in May and June. Lechenaultia formosa. A dwarf plant with heath-hke foliage and bright scarlet blossoms; in bloom a long season, under good culture. Leptospermum. This genus is somewhat celebrated from the leaves of the species L. scopariwm being used by the crew of Captain Cook’s ship as a substitute for Tea, the leaves having an agreeable bitter flavour; the blossoms, which are small, are white. Leucadendron, Silver Tree. A neat evergreen shrub with silver-like foliage, of which there are several species, all admirable for their beauty. Linum, Flax. Two species of this plant are worthy of cultivation in a green-house, where they will bloom in Feb- ruary and March. The Linum trigynum produces large yel- low flowers in clusters, and Linum ascyrifolium yields spikes of blue and white flowers, which are similar to those of the Convolvulus. Lobelia. There are several species of this plant, which are generally herbaceous; they produce an abundance of little flowers of brilliant colours. The Lobelia crmus is a pretty trailing plant, yielding numerous blue flowers all the summer, Lychnis coronata, Coronet-flowered Lychnis. This half- hardy plant, embraced in our catalogue of Perennials, is worthy of protection, from its furnishing trusses of beautiful orange scarlet flowers, from June to August. As it yields no seed, the roots should be taken from the ground m autumn, and returned the ensuing spring. Magnolia. Most of the species of this justly-admired genus are hardy, and blossom in the summer; there are, however, some of the Chinese varieties, which, cultivated CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 135 in a green-house, will produce thei beautiful purple, yel- low, and white blossoms, from January to April. Melaleucas. A beautiful genus of plants, natives of New Holland; the diversity of their foliage and singularity of - flowers, some of which are scarlet, and shoot from the wood like fringes, render them worthy of good cultiva- tion. Menettia. This is a desirable climber, of which there are several species ; some produce variegated flowers, others bright scarlet, and the variety cord:flora is curious as well as beautiful. Mesembryanthemum. A genus of succulent plants, con- sisting of hundreds of species and varieties, chiefly natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They vary greatly in their forms, attitudes, and habits of growth; some are upright, others procumbent; some are thick, others cimeter or slen- der-leaved. They are all singular, and many of them beau- tiful. The colours of the flowers, which are of every shade, are great ornaments from May to August; some species and varieties are cultivated as annuals in the flower garden, where they prove a great acquisition. Metrosideros. A genus of Australasian shrubs, some spe- cies of which are willow and others spear-leaved, producing their cones of scarlet or white flowers from March to May. Myrius, Myrtle. A genus of dwarf evergreen shrubs, of which there are seyeral species and varieties ; the foliage is chiefly glossy and fragrant, yielding numerous small flow- ers. There are some species known as Cape Myrtles, or Marsines, which also yield abundance of white and purple flowers from March to May. Nandina domestica, Japan Nandina. A half-hardy ever- green shrub; leaves supra-decompound, with entire lanceo- late leaflets; a kind of foliage that is very rare. Nerium, Oleander. A well-known and admired shrub, yielding clusters of rose-like flowers from May to Septem- ber. The Verium splendens is the most esteemed of the red 116 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. varieties; the true double white and striped are very rare; but some of those cultivated for sale, producing semi-double flowers, are by no means desirable. Olea fragrance, Dwarf Olive. This variety of the Olive recommends itself to notice, for its dwarf habit of growth, and from the foliage and white blossoms being highly odo- riferous; from March to May. Passiflora, Passion flower. Of this celebrated genus of climbing plants, there are several species and varieties, which produce splendid flowers of various colours, red, blue, white, purple, scarlet, &c., beautifully contrasted, and some species yield fruit. They generally blossom from May to September, and some will flower in the hot-house in winter. Pelargonium, Geranium. The species and varieties of this beautiful genus is supposed to exceed a thousand, which are of every character, colour, and lineament, and some so beautifully blended as to astonish the beholder; the agree- able fragrance also, of which many of them are possessed, will always render them favourites to amateur florists. The best blooming season is from April to June, or July. Pittosporum. A Chinese evergreen shrub, with handsome glossy foliage, yielding numerous white elusters of flowers in April and May, which are of delicious fragrance. There are several species, one of which is variegated. Plumbago capensis, Cape Plumbago. A beautiful dwarf plant, with oblong leaves, yielding numerous spikes of showy blue flowers nearly all the summer. Polygaia cordati, Heart-shaped Polygata. A beautiful little plant, producing abundance of rich purple flowers nearly all the winter. Protea. A beautiful race of plants, the foliage of which is very diversified, and the flowers also; being red, white, straw, brown, green, and purple, and most of these colours are frequently to be seen on the same plant; in flower from March to June. Primulu. In this genus are embraced all the varieties of CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 117 the Primrose, Polyanthus, Auricula, Cowslip, Oxlip, &c., already inserted in our Biennial and Perennial catalogues. The flowers, which appear early in spring, are mostly sweet- scented, and of various colours, red, white, yellow, lilac, purple, crimson, &c., which in some are beautifully varie- gated. The above are natives of England; besides which are two varieties, white and pink, natives of China, produ- cing umbels of flowers from January to May. Pyrus Japonica alba, or Cydonia Japonica. One of the earliest flowering dwarf shrubs of the garden, producing beautiful blush flowers; there is another variety, which pro- duces scarlet blossoms, already described in our catalogue of shrubs. ~ Reseda, Mignonette. This fragrant little plant has been already treated of as an annual; it may, however, be kept under cultivation from January to December, by sowing seed at different seasons in a green-house or warm room. Rhododendron, Rose Bay. A beautiful genus of plants, chiefly natives of India, furnishing clusters of flowers of various shades, as purple, scarlet, or crimson, and these va- riegated in spots and flakes; in flower from March to May. Rosea, Rose. This Queen of Flowers, so universally ad- mired, nature seems to have distributed over the whole civilized world; and varieties have been so multiplied of late years, as to render it difficult to make a judicious choice ; many of the new varieties, however, ‘being shy bloomers, are not so desirable for green-house culture as the common China Rose, a select assortment of which, carefully culti- vated, will produce blossoms from January to December. Rosmarinus, Rosemary. A fragrant, half-hardy, slender- .leaved plant, which has been held in great esteem for ages. In some parts of Europe it is customary to distribute sprigs among the guests at weddings and funerals. Ruella. A desirable plant, of which there are several species; they produce purple or scarlet tunnel-shaped flow- ers from December to March. 118 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. Salvia, Mexican Sage. A free-blooming plant, produ- cing in the different species, scarlet and blue flowers in spiked whorls ; cuttings of which, if taken from stock plants in the green house early in spring, and planted in good gar- den soil, will embellish the borders three or four months of the summer. Sempervivum arboreum, Tree House Leek. A succulent plant, similar to the common house leek, on a dwarfish stem ; by some admired as an evergreen. Siapelia. A genus of dwarf succulent plants, producing beautiful purple, striped, freckled, and star-like flowers, within six inches of the surface ; in its varieties from May to November. Stevia serraia, Vanilla-scented Stevia. This plant, al- though usually cultivated as an annual, is worthy of green- house culture, from its affording fragrant and ornamental materials for bouquets the whole winter. Strelitzia regina, Queen’s Strelitz. A beautiful dwarf plant, producing from a stalk from one to two feet long, several flowers of a bright yellow, contrasted with blue, from May to September. Tecoma capensis. A perennial plant, producing orange- coloured trumpet flowers in clusters, very similar to the Bigonia tribe, toward the end of summer. Thea, Tea. Of this celebrated Chinese plant, which sup- plies a great portion of the human family with their domes- tic beverage, there are two varieties, Thea virdis and Thea bohea. The plants, when cultivated in a green-house, are by no means of rapid growth, nor are the flowers, which are white, of any great beauty. Tussilago fragrance. A half-hardy herbaceous Perennial . plant, by some much esteemed for its heliotrope-scented blossoms, which spring up in clusters from December to March. Verbena triphylla, named in some catalogues Aloysa citri- odora, A deciduous shrub, generally admired for the fra- CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 119 grance of its leaves, which is its chief recommendation, the blossoms, which are white, being small. Verbena, Splendid Verbena. A tribe of plants increasing in variety annually, and which already embrace every shade of colour, scarlet, blue, rose, lilac, white, pink, &c. Planted in the flower borders, they impart beauty and variety through the summer, and cultivated in the green-house, they embel- lish it a great part of the winter. Viburnum tinus, Laurustinus. A much-admired half- hardy evergreen shrub, producing clusters of white blos- soms from ma anuary to May. There are other species very similar in habit, and one with striped leaves. Viola, Violet. Of these beauties of the garden, some of which are denominated “ Florist’s Flowers,” there are up- ward of a hundred species and varieties. The early Violets are highly fragrant, and the variety and beauty of the Pan- sey tribe almost exceed description or conception. As these splendid dwarf plants decorate the green-house and flower borders from January to December, they are worthy of care- ful cultivation. Yucca aloe-folia, and its beautiful variety, variegata, are desirable plants to cultivate, from their singular appearance, contrasted with other plants. Their blossoms, which are white, grow in spikes, but the plants do not flower much until several years old. The following invaluable compendium is from the pen of Joun Linpiey, F. R.S., Professor of Botany in the Univer- sity of London, and Associate Secretary of the Horticultural Society, &c. &c. As this outline embraces the very essence of Horticulture and Floriculture, it is well adapted as an appendage to this department of the work. 120 AN OUTLINE OF THE FIRST PRINCIPLES OF HORTICULTURE. I. GenreraL Nature oF PLants. , 1. HorticuLtuRre is the application of the arts of cultivation, multipli- cation, and domestication to the vegetable kingdom. Agriculture and Arboriculture are branches of Horticulture. 2. The vegetable kingdom is composed of living beings, destitute of sensa- tion, with no power of moving spontaneously from place to place, and called plants. 3. Plants are organized bodies, consisting of masses of tissue that is per- meable by fiuids or gaseous matter. 4. Vegetable tissue consists either of minute bladders, or Gabe adhering by their contiguous surfaces, and leaving intermediate passages where Hey do not touch. , 5. Tissue is called Cellular when it is composed of minute bladders, which either approach the figure of a sphere, or are obviously some modi- fication of it, supposed to be caused by extension or lateral compression. 6. When newly formed it is ina very lax state, and possesses great powers of absorption ; probably on account of the excessive permeability of its membrane, and the imperfect cohesion of its cells. 7. Cellular tissue, otherwise called Parenchyma, constitute the soft and brittle parts of plants; such as pith, pulp, the spaces between the veins of leaves, the principal part of the petals. and the like. 8. Succulent plants are such as have an excessive developement of cel- lular tissue. 9. It may be considered the most essential kind of tissue, because, while no plants exist without it, many are composed of nothing else. 10. Tissue is called Woody Fibre when it is composed of slender tubes, which are conical and closed at each end, and placed side by side. 11. Woody fibre is what causes stiffness and tenacity in certain parts of plants ; hence it is found in the veins of leaves, and in bark, and it con- stitutes the principal part of the wood. 12. Vascular Tissue is that in which either an elastic tough thread is generated spirally within a tube that is closed and conical at each end; or tows of cylindrical cellules, placed end to end, finally become continuous tubes by the loss of their ends. 13. The most remarkable form of vascular tissue is the Spiral Vessel, which has the power of rolling with elasticity when stretched. ROOT. 121 14. Other kinds of vascular tissue are incapable of unrolling, but break when stretched. 15. Spiral vessels are not found in the wood or bark, and rarely in the roots of plants. 16. Vascular tissue of other kinds is confined to the root, stem, veins of leaves, petals, and other parts composed of leaves. It is not found in bark- 17. The common office of the tissue is to convey fluid or air, and to act as the receptacle of secretions. 18. Cellular tissue conveys fluids in all directions, absorbs with great rapidity, is the first cause of the adhesions that take place between con- tiguous parts, and is the principal receptacle of secreted matter. 19. Adhesion will take place at all times during the growing season, when the cellular tissues of two different parts, or of two different plants, is kept for some time in contact; but as none but tissues of nearly the same nature will adhere, grafting and budding, which are caused by the adhesion of contiguous parts, can only take place either between different varieties of the same species, or between nearly related species; and even then only when the corresponding parts of the scion or bud, and the stock, are placed in contact. ; 20. Woody fibre conveys fluid in the direction of its length, gives stiff- ness and flexibility to the general system, and acts as a protection to spiral and other delicate vessels. 21. Spiral vessels convey oxygenated air. 22. Other vessels probably conduct fluid when young, and air when old. 23. As the bodies of which all tissue is composed are perfectly simple, unbranched, and regular in figure, having, when elongated, their two extremi- ties exactly alike, they are more or less capable of conveying gaseous mat- ter or fluids in any direction ; and, consequently a current may be reversed in them without inconvenience : hence inverted cuttings or stems will grow. 24. All parts of plants are composed of tissue, whether they be soft, as pulp ; or hard, as the bony lining of a peach. 25. With regard to Horticultural operations, the parts of plants should be considered under the heads of Roof (II.); Stem (IIl.); Leaf Buds (IV.); Leaves (V.); Flowers (VI.); Sexes (VII.) ; Fruét (VIII); and Seed (IX). II. Roor. 26. The Roor is the part that strikes into the earth when a seed begins to germinate, and which afterward continues to lengthen beneath the soil. 27. It is also the part which is sometimes emitted by the stem, for the purpose of absorbing nutriment from the atmosphere; as in Ivy, Air- Plants, Vines, &c. 28. It is distinguished from the stem by the absence of leaves in any state, of regular leaf-buds (IV.); of evaporating pores or stomata (131); and of pith in Exogenous plants. 29. Therefore, such underground bodies as those called Tuber (61) in the Potato ; Bulb (96) in the Onion; and solid Bulb or Cermus (61) in the Crocus, are not roots. 30. The office of the root is to absorb food in a fluid or gaseous state 5 and also to fix the plant in the soil, or to some firm support. 122 ROOT. 31. The latter office is essential to the certain and regular performance of the former. 32. It is not by the whole of their surface that roots absorb food ; but only by their young and newly formed extremities, called Spongioles. 33. Hence the preservation of the spongioles in an uninjured state is essential to the removal of a plant from one place to another. 34. A Spongiole consists of very young vascular tissue (12) surrounded by very young cellular substance (5). 35. It is therefore one of the most delicate parts of plants, and the most easily injured. 36. Hence whatever is known to produce any specific deleterious action upon leaves or stems, such as certain gases (298) and mineral or vegetable poisons, will produce a much more fatal. effect upon the spongioles. 37. These organs have no power of selecting their food, but will absorb whatever the earth or air may contain, which is sufficiently fluid to pass through the sides of their tissue. 38. So that if the spongioles are developed in a medium which is of an unsuitable nature, as they will still continue to absorb, they cannot fail te introduce matter which will prove either injurious or fatal to life, accord- ing to its intensity. 39. This may often explain why trees suddenly become unhealthy, with- out any external apparent cause. 40. Plants have the power of replacing spongioles by the formation of new ones ; so that an individual is not destroyed by their loss. 41. But this power depends upon the co-operation of the atmosphere, and upon the special vital powers of the species. 42. If the atmosphere is so humid as to hinder evaporation, spongioles will have time to form anew; but if the atmosphere is dry, the loss by evaporation will be so much greater than can be supplied by the injured roots, that the whole system will be emptied of fluid before the new spon- gioles can form. 43. This is the key to Transplantation (XV.) 44. As roots are destitute of leaf-buds (IV.), and as leaf-buds are essen- tial to the multiplication of an individual (108), it should follow that roots can never be employed for the purpose of multiplication. 45. Nevertheless, roots when woody have, occasionally, the power of generating adventitious leaf-buds (IV.); and when this is the case, they may be employed for the purpose of multiplication ; as those of Cydonia Japonica, &@. 46. The cause of this power existing in some species, and not in others, iS unknown. 47. It is therefore a power that can never be calculated upon, and whose existence is only to be discovered by accident. 48. Although roots are generated under ground, and sometimes at con- siderable depths, yet access to a certain quantity of atmospheric air appears. indispensable to the healthy execution of their functions. This is con- stantly exemplified in plants growing in the earth at the back of an ill- ventilated forcing-house, where the roots have no means of finding their way into the earth on the outside of the house. 49. It is supposed by some that the introduction of oxygen into their system is as indispensable to them as to animals, STEM. 123 50. It seems more probable that the oxygen of the atmosphere, seizing upon a certain quantity of carbon, forms carbonic acid, which they absorb, and feed upon. 51. It is at least certain that the exclusion of air from the roots will always induce an unhealthy condition, or even death itself. This may be one of the reasons why stiff tenacious soils are seldom suited to the pur- poses of the cultivator, until their adhesiveness has been destoyed by the addition of other matter. 52. Spongioles secrete excrementitious matter, which is unsuitable to the same species afterward as food ; for poisonous substances are as fatal to the species that secrete them as to any other species. 53. But to the other species the excrementitious matter is either not un- suitable, or not deleterious. 54. Hence, soil may be rendered impure (or, as we inaccurately say, worn out) fer one species, which will not be impure for others. 55. This is the true key of the theory of rotation of crops. 56. This also may serve to explain in part why light soil is indispensa- ble to many plants, and heavy or tenacious soil suitable to so few ; for in the former case the spongioles will meet with little resistance to their elong- ation, and will consequently be continually leaving the place where their excrementitious matter is deposited ; while in the latter case, the reverse will occur. III. Srem. 57. The Stem is that part of a plant which is developed above ground, and which took an upward direction at the period of germination. 58. It consists of a woody axis, covered by bark having stomata (131) on its surface, bearing leaves with leaf-buds, in their exille, and producing flowers and fruit. 59. The points where leaves are borne are called Nodi,; the spaces be- tween the leaves, are Internodia. 60. The more erect a stem grows, the more vigorous it is; and the more it deviates from this direction to a horizontal or pendulous position, the less is it vigorous. 61. Some stems are developed under ground, such as the Tubers of the Potato and the Cormus of the Crocus ; but they are known from roots by the presence of leaves, and regular leaf-buds, upon their surface. 62. Stems increase in diameter in two ways. 63. Hither by the addition of new matter te the outside of the wood and the inside of the bark; when they are Exogenous; ex. Oak. 64. Or by the addition of new matter to their inside; when they are Endogenous ; ex. Cane. 65. In Exogenous stems, the central portion, which is harder and darker than that at the circumference, is called Heart Woud,; while the exterior, which is softer and lighter, is called Albernwm, or Sap Wood. 66. The inside of the bark of such stems has also the technical name of Liber. ; 67. The heart wood was, when young, Albernum, and afterward changed its nature by becoming the receptacle of certain secretions peculiar to the species. 124 LEAF-BUDS. 68. Hence the greater durability of heart wood than of sap wood. While the latter is newly formed empty tissue, almost as perishable as bark, itself, the former is protected against destruction by the introduction of secretions that become solid matter, which is often insoluble in water, and never permeable to air. 69. The secretions by which heart wood is solidified are prepared in the leaves, whence they are sent downward through the bark, and from the bark communicated to the central part of the stem. 70. The channels through which this communication takes place are called Medullary Rays, or Silver Grain. 71. Medullary rays are plates of cellular tissue, in a very compressed state, passing from the pith into the bark. 72. The wood itself is composed of tubes consisting of woody fibre and vascular tissue, imbedded longitudinally in cellular substance. 73. This cellular substance only developes horizontally ; and it is to it that the peculiar character of different kinds of wood is chiefly due. 74. for this reason the wood of the stock of a grafted plant will never become like that of its scion, although, as will be hereafter seen (IV.), the woody matter of the stock must all originate in the scion. 75. The stem of an exogenous plant may therefore be compared to a piece of linen, of which the weft is composed of cellular tissue, and the warp of fibrous and vascular tissue. 76. In the spring and autumn a viscid substance is secreted between the wood and the liber, called the Cambium. 77. This cambium appears to be the matter out of which the cellular horizontal substance of the stem is organized. 78. In Endogenous stems the portion at the circumference is harder than that in the centre ; and there is no separable bark. 79. Their stems consist of bundles of woody matter, imbedded in cel- lular tissue, and composed of vascular tissue surrounded by woody fibre. 80. The stem is not only the depository of the peculiar secretions of species, (67), but is also the medium through which the sap flows in its passage from the roots into the leaves. 81. Inexogenous stems (63) it certainly rises through the albumum, and descends through the bark. 82. In endogenous stems (64) it probably rises through the bundles of wood, and descends through the cellular substance ; but this is uncertain. 83. Stems have the power of propagating an individual only by means of their LEar-pups. If destitute of leaf-buds, they have no power of multiplication, except fortuitously. IV. Lear-pups. 4 84, Leaf-buds are rudiments of branches, enclosed within scales, which are imperfectly formed leaves. 85. All the leaf-buds upon the same branch are constitutionally and ana- tomically the same. 86. They are of two kinds; namely, regular or normal, and adventi- tious or latent (119). 87. Regular leaf-buds are formed at the axille of leaves. LEAF-BUDS. 125 88. They are organs capable of propagating the individual from which they originate. 89. They are at first nourished by the fluid lying in the pith, but finally establish for themselves a communication with the soil by the woody mat- ter which they send downward. F 90. Their force of developement will be in proportion to their nourish- ment; and, consequently, when it is wished to procure a young shoot of unusual vigour, all other shoots in the vicinity are prevented growing, so as to accumulate for one shoot only all the food that would otherwise have been consumed by several. 91. Cutting back to a few eyes is an operation in pruning to produce the same effect, by directing the sap, as it ascends, into two or three buds only, instead of allowing it to expend itself upon all the others which are cut away. §2. When leaf-buds grow, they develope in three directions ; the one horizontal, the other upward, and the third downward. 93. The horizontal developement is confined to the cellular system of the bark, pith, and medullary rays. 94, The upward and downward developements are confined to the woody fibre and vascular tissue. 95. In this respect they resemble seed ; from which they differ physio- logically in propagating the individual, while seed can only propagate the species. 96. When they disarticulate from the stem that bears them, they are called Bulbs. $7. In some plants, a bud, when separated from its stem, will grow and form a new plant if placed in circumstances favourable to the preservation of its vital powers. 98. But this property seems confined to plants having a firm, woody, perennial stem. 99. Such buds, when detached from their parent stem, send roots down- ward and a stem upward. 100. But if the buds are not separated from the plant to which they belong, the matter they send downward becomes wood and liber (66), axd the stems they send upward become branches. Hence it is said that wood and liber are formed by the roots of leaf-buds. 101. If no leaf-buds are called into action, there will be no addition of wood ; and, consequently, the destruction or absence: of leaf-buds is accom- panied by the absence of wood; as is proved by a shoot, the upper buds of which are destroyed and the lower allowed to develope. The lower part of the shoot will increase in diameter; the upper will remain of its original dimensions. 102. The quantity of wood, therefore, depends upon the quantity of leaf-buds that develope. 103. It is of the greatest importance to bear this in mind in pruning timber trees: for excessive pruning must necessarily be injurious to the quantity, of produce. 104. If a cutting with a leaf-bud on it be placed in circumstances fitted to the developement of the latter, it will grow and become a new plant. 105. If this happens when the cutting is inserted in the earth, the new plant is said,by gardeners fo be wp» ’ its own bottom. 1* 126 LEAF-BUDS. 106. But if it happens when the cutting is applied to the dissevered end of another individual, called a stock, the roots are insinuated into the tissue of the stock, anda plant is said to be grafted, the cutting being called a scion. 107. There is, therefore, little difference between cuttings and scions, except that the former root into the earth, the latter into another plant. 108. Bu: if a cutting of the same plant without a leaf-bud upon it be placed in the same circumstances, it will not grow, but will die. 109. Unless its vital powers are sufficient to enable it to develope an adventitious leaf-bud (119). 110. A leaf-bud separated from the stem will also become a new indi- vidual, if its vital energy is sufficiently powerful. 5 111. And this, whether it is planted in earth, into which it roots like a cutting, or in a new individual, to which it adheres and grows like a scion. In the former case it is called an eye, in the latter a bud. 112. Every leaf-bud has, therefore, its own distinct system of life and of growth. 113. And as all the leaf-buds of an individual are exactly alike, it follows that a plant is a collection of a great number of distinct identical systems of life, and, consequently, a compound individual. 114. Regular leaf-buds being generated in the exille of the leaves, it is there that they are always to be sought. 115. And if they cannot be discovered by ocular inspection, it may nevertheless be always inferred with confidence that they exist in such situations, and may possibly be called from their dormant state into life. 116. Hence, wherever the scar of a leaf, or the remains of a leaf, can be discovered, there it is to be understood that the rudiments exist of a system of life which may be, by favourable circumstances, called into action. 117. Hence, all parts upon which leaves have ever grown may be made use of for purposes of propagation. 118. From these considerations it appears that the most direct analogy between the Animal and Vegetable kingdoms is with the Polypes of the former. 119. Adventitious leaf-buds are in all respects like regular leaf-buds, except that they are not formed at the exille of leaves, but develope occasionally from all and any part of a plant. 120. They are occasionally produced by roots, by solid wood, or even by leaves and flowers. 121. Hence roots. solid wood, or even leaves and flowers, may be used as means of propagation. 122. But as the developement of adventitious buds is extremely uncer- tain, such means of propagation can never be calculated on, and form no part of the science of cultivation. 123. The cause of the formation of adventitious leaf-buds is unknown. 124. From certain experiments it appears that they may be generated by sap in a state of great accumulation and activity. 125. Consequently, whatever tends to the accumulation of sap in an active state may be expected to be conducive to the formation of adventi- tious leaf-buds. LEAVES. : 12? V. Leaves. 126. Leaves are expansions of bark, traversed by veins. 127. The veins consist of spiral vessels enclosed in woody fibre ; they _ originate in the medullary sheath and liber ; and they are connected by loose Parenchyma (7), which is full of cavities containing air. 128. This parenchyma consists of two layers, of which the upper is com- posed of cellules perpendicular to the cuticle, and the lower of cellules parallel with the cuticle. 129. These cellules are arranged so as to leave numerous open passages among them for the circulation of air in the inside of a leaf. Parenchyma of this nature is called cavernous. 130. Cuticle is formed of one or more layers of depressed cellular tissue, which is generally hardened, and always dry and filled with air. 131. Between many of the cells of the cuticle are placed appertures called sfomata, which have the power of opening and closing as circum- stances may require. 132. It is by means of this apparatus that leaves elaborate the sap which they absorb from the albernum, converting it into the secretions peculiar to the species. ' 133. Their cavernous structure (129) enables them to expose the great- est possible surface of their parenchyma to the action of the atmosphere. 134. Their cuticle is a non-conducting skin, which protects them trom great variations in temperature, and through which gaseous matter will — pass readily. 135. Their stomata are pores that are chiefly intended to facilitate evap- oration ;. for which they are well adapted by a power they possess of open- ing or closing as circumstances may require. 136. They are also intended for facilitating the rapid emission of air, when it is necessary that such a function should be performed. 137. The functions of stomata being of such vital importance, it is always advisable to examine them microscopically in cases where dou’is are entertained of the state of the atmosphere which a particular species may require. 138. Leaves growing in air are covered with a cuticle. 139, Leaves growing under water have no cuticle. 140. All the secretions of plants being formed in the leaves, or at leaxt the greater part, it follows that secretions cannot take place if leaves are destroyed. 141. And as this secreting preperty depends upon specific vital powers connected with the decomposition of carbonic acid, and called into action only when the leaves are freely exposed to light and air (279), it also fol- lows that the quantity of secretion will be in direct proportion to the quantity of leaves, and to their free exposure to light and air. 142. The usual position of leaves is spiral, at regularly increasing or diminishing distances ; they are then said to be alternate. 143. But if the space, or the axis, that separates two leaves. is reduced to nothing at alternate intervals, they become opposite. 144. And if the spaces that separate several leaves be reduced to nothing, they become verticillate. 128 FLOWERS. 145. Opposite and verticillate leaves, therefore, differ from alternate leaves only in the spaces that separate them being reduced to nothing. VI. Fiowers. 146. Flowers consist of two principal parts, namely, Floral Envelopes (149), and Sexes (VII.) 147. Of these, the former constitute what is popularly considered the flower; although the latter are the only parts: that are absolutely essential to it. 148. However different they may be in appearance from leaves, they are all formed of those organs in a more or less modified state, and altered in greater or less degree by mutual adhesion. 149. The floral envelopes consist of two or more whorls of transformed leaves; of which part is calyx, its leaves being called sepals, and part corolla, its leaves being called petals. 150. The sexes are also transformed leaves (187). 151. The calyx is always the outermost, the carolla is always the inner- most whorls ; and if there is but one floral envelope, that one is calyx. 152. Usually the calyx is green, and the corolla coloured and more highly developed: but the reverse is frequently the case, asin Fuchsia, Ribes sanguineum, &c. 153. A flower being, then, an axis surrounded by leaves, it is in reality a stunted branch ; that is, one the growth of which is checked, and its power of elongation destroyed. 154. That flowers are stunted branches is proved, first, by all their parts, especially the most external, occasionally reverting to the state of ordinary leaves ; secondly, by their parts being often transformed into each other 5 and, thirdly, by the whorls of flower-buds being dislocated and actually converted into branches whenever any thing occurs to stimulate them excessively. 155. Theit most essential distinctive character consists in the buds at the exille of their leaves being usually dormant, while those in the exillz of ordinary leaves are usually active. 156. For this reason; while leaf-buds can be used for the purpose of mo: pagation, flower-buds cannot usually be so employed. 157. Being stunted branches, their position on the stem is the same as that of developed branches. 158. And as there is in all plants a very great difference in the develope- ment of leaf-buds, some growing readily into branches, others only unfold- ing their leaves without elongating, and many remaining altogether dor- mant, it follows that flower-buds may form upon plants of whatever age and in whatever state. 159. But to produce a general formation of flower-buds it is necessary that there should be some general predisposing constitutional cause, inde- pendent of accidental circumstances. 160. This predisposing cause is the accumulation of sap and of secreted matter. 161. Therefore, whatever tends to retard the free flow of sap, and causes it to accumulate, will cause the produczion of flower-buds or fertility. FLOWERS. 129 162. And, on the other hand, whatever tends to produce excessive vigour, causes the dispersion of sap, or prevents its elaboration, and causes sterility. ; 163. Transplantation with a partial destruction of roots, age, or high temperature accompanied by a dry atmosphere, training obliquely or in an inverted direction, a constant destruction of the extremities of young growing branches, will all cause an accumulation of sap, and secretions ; and, consequently, all such circumstances are favourable to the production of flower-buds. 164. But arichly manured soil, high temperature, with great atmospheric humidity, or an uninterrupted flow of sap, are all causes of excessive vig- our, and are consequently unfavourable to the production of flower-buds. 165. There is a tendency in many flowers to enlarge, to alter their colours, or to change their appearance by transformation and multiplication of their parts, whenever they have been raised from seed for several gene- rations, or domesticated. 166. The causes of this tendency are probably various, but being entirely unknown, no certain rules for the production of varieties in flowers can be laid down, except by the aid of hybridizing (201). 167. It.often happens that a single branch produces flowers different from those produced on other branches. This is technically called a sport. 168. As every bud on that branch has the same specific vital principle (113), a bud taken from such a branch will produce an individual, the whole of whose branches will refain the character of the sport. 169. Consequently, by buds an accidental variety may be made perma- nent, if the plant that sports be of a firm woody nature (98). 170. As flowers feed upon the prepared sap in their vicinity, the greater the abundance of this prepared food, the more perfect will be their devel- opement. j 171. Or the fewer the flowers on a given branch, the more food they will severally have to nourish them, and the more perfect will they be. 172. The beauty of flowers will therefore be increased either by an abun- dant supply of food, or by a diminution of their numbers (thinning), or by both. The business of the pruner is to cause these by his operation. 173. The beauty of flowers depends upon their free exposure to light and air, because it consists in the richness of their colours, and their colours are only formed by the action of: these two agents (281). 174, Hence flowers produced in dark or shaded confined situations are either imperfect, or destitute of their habitual size and beauty. 175. Double flowers are those in which the stamens are transformed into petals; orin which the latter, or the sepals, are multiplied. They should not be confounded with Proliferows (183), and Discvid Compound Flowers (184). 176. Although no certain rules for the production of double flowers can be laid down, yet it is probable that those flowers have the greatest tendency to become double, in which the sexes are habitually multiplied. 177. In Icosandrous and Polyandrous plants either the stamens or the pistilla are always very numerous when the flowers are in a natural state ; ani it is chiefly in such plants that double flowers occur, when they become transformed. 130 SEXES. 178. It is, therefore, in such plants that double flowers are to be princi- pally expected. 179. In proportion as the sexes of flowers habitually become few in number, do the instances of double flowers become rare. 180. Double flowers are therefore least to be expected in plants with fewest stamens. 181. Whenever the component parts of a flower adhere by their edges, as in monophyllous calyxes, monopetalous corollas, and monadelphous, or di-, or poly-adelphous stamens, the tendency to an unnatural multiplication of parts seem checked. 182 Therefore, in such cases, double flowers are little to be expected ; they are, in fact, very rare. 183. Proliferous flowers are those in which parts that usually have all their axillary buds dormant, accidentally develope such buds ; as in the Hen and Chickens Daisy, in which the bractee of the involucrum form other Daisy-heads in their axille ; or, as in certain Roses, in which the carpellary leaves develope leaf-buds in their axille, so that the flower becomes a branch, the lower leaves of which are coloured and transformed, and the upper green, and in their ordinary state. 184. Discoid compound flowers are those in which the central florets of a flower-head acquire carollas, like those of the circumference, as in the Dahlia ; the cultivated variety of which should be called discoid, and not double. 185. These last two are so essentially different from double flowers, that whatever laws may be supposed to govern the production or amelioration of double flowers, can have no relation to proliferous or discoid compound flowers. VIL. Sexes. 186. The sexes consist of two or more whorls of transformed leaves, of which the outer are called Sfamens (188), and the inner Pistillwm (191), 187. They are known to be modifications of leaves, because they very frequently are transformed into petals which are demonstrably such (149); and because they occasionally revert to the state of leaves. 188. The stamens bear at their apex an organ, called the anther, which contains a powder called pollen. 189. When the anther is full grown it peone and emits the pollen, either dispersing it in the air in consequence of the elasticity with which it opens; or depositing it upon the stigmata (191); or exposing it to the action of wind, or such other disturbing causes as may liberate it from its case. 190. The pollen consists of exceedingly minute hollow balls, or cases, containing myriads of moving particles, which are the fertilizing principle of the stamens. 191. The pistillum has at its base one or more cavities or cel/s, in which bodies called ovula are placed ; and at its apex one or more secreting sur- faces called stigmata. 192. The ovula are the rudiments of seed. 103. If the fertilizing powder of the pollen comes in contact with the stigmata, the ovula in the cells of the pistillum are vivified, and become seed. FRUIT, 131 194. But if this contact does not take place, the ovula cannot possibly be vivified, but shrivel up and perish. 195. The phenomenon of vivification takes place in consequence of the descent of a portion of the moving particles (190) of the pollen into the ovula, where such particles form the commencement of future plants. 196. In wild plants stigmata is usually acted upon only by the pollen of the stamens which belong to it. 197. In this case the seed thus vivified will, when sown, produce new individuals, differing very little from that by which they were them- selves produced. 198. And, therefore, wild plants are for the most part multiplied from generation to generation without change. 199. But it is possible to cause deviations from this law, by artificial means. . 200. If the pollen of one species is placed upon the stigmata of another species, the ovula will be,vivified ; and what is called a hybrid plant will be produced, by those ovula when they shall have grown to be seed. 201. Hybrid plants are different from both their parents, and are gene- rally intermediate in character between them. 902. They have little power of perpetuating themselves by seed ; but they may, if woody, be perpetuated by cuttings (312), buds (354), scions (335), &c. 203. Therefore, no hybrids but such as are of a woody perennial char- acter can be perpetuated. 204. It usually happens that the hybrid has the constitution and general aspect of the polliniferous parent ; but is influenced in secondary charac- ters by the peculiarity of the female parent. 205. This should always be borne in mind in procuring new hybrid plants. 206. Really hybrid plants must not be confounded with such as are spu- rious, in consequence of their origin being between two varieties of the same species, and not two species of the same genus. 207. Hybrid plants, although incapable of perpetuation by seed, are often more abundant flowerers than either parent. 208. This is, probably, connected with constitutional debility (162). VIL. Frurr. 209. Fruit, strictly speaking, is the pistillum arrived at maturity. 210. When the calyx adheres to the pistillum, and grows with it to maturity, the fruit is called inferior ; as the Apple. 211. But when the pistillum alone ripens, there being no adhesion to it on the part of the calyx, the fruit is called swperior ; as the Peach. 212. The fruit is, therefore, in common language, the flower, er some part of it, arrived at its most complete state of existence ; and conse- quently, is itself a portion of a stunted branch (153). 213. The nature of its connection with the stem is therefore the same as that of the branches with each other, or of leaves with their stem. 214, A superior fruit consisting only of one, or of a small number of metamorphosed leaves, it has little or no power of forming a communica- tion with the earth and of feeding itself, as real branches have (S9). 132 FRUIT. 215. It has also very little adhesion to its branch; so that but slight causes are sufficient to detach it from the plant, especially at an early age, when all its parts are tender. 216. Hence the difficulty of causing Peaches and the like to stone, or to pass over that age, in which the vascular bundles that join them to the branch become woody, and secure them to their place. 217. For the same reason they are fed almost entirely by other parts, upon secreted matter which they attract to themselves, elaborate, and store up in the cavities of their tissue. 218. The office of feeding such fruit is performed by young branches which transmit nutriment to it through the bark (69). 219. But as young branches can only transmit nutriment downward, it follows that, unless a fruit is formed on a part of a branch below a leaf- bud, it must perish, 220. Unless there is some active vegetation in the stem above the branch on which it grows ; when it may possibly live oe feed upon secretions attracted by it from the main stem. 221. But inferior fruit, consisting at least of the calyx in addition to the pistillum, has a much more powerful communication with the branch; each division of its calyx having at least one bundle of vascular and fibrous tissue, passing from it into the branch, and acting as a stay upon the centre to prevent its breaking off. 222. Such fruit may be supposed much more capable of establishing a means of attractiiig secretions from a distance ; and, consequently, is less liable to perish from want of a supply of food. 223. It is therefore not so important that an inferior fruit should be fur- nished with growing branches above it. 224, Fruit is exciusively fed by the secretions prepared for it by other parts ; it is therefore affected by nearly the same circumstances as flowers. 225. It will be large in proportion to the quantity of food the stem can supply to it; and small in proportion to the inability of the stem to nourish it. 226. For this reason, wien trees are weak they should be allowed to bear very little, if any, fruit; because a crop of fruit can only tend to in- crease their debility. 227. And in all cases each fruit should be so far separated from all others as not to be robbed of its food by those in its vicinity. 228. We find that nature has herself in some measure provided against injury to plants by excessive fecundity, in giving them a power of throw- ing off flowers, the fruit of which cannot be supported. 229. The flavour of fruit depends upon the existence of certain secre- tions, especially of acid and sugar ; flavour will, consequently, be regulated by the circumstances under which fruit is ripened. 930. The ripening of fruit is the conversion of acid and other substances | into sugar. 231. As the latter substance cannot be obtained at all in the dark, is less abundant in fruit ripened in diffused light, and most abundant in fruit ex- posed to the direct rays of the sun, the conversion of matter into sugar occurs under the same circumstances as the decomposition of carbonic acid (141 and 279). 232. Vherefore, if fruit be produced in situations much exposed to the sun, its sweetness will be augmented. SHED. 133 233. And in proportion as it is deprived of the sun’s direct rays, that quality will diminish. 234. So that a fruit which, when exposed to the sun, is sweet, when grown where no direct light will reach it will be acid ; as Pears, Cherries, &c, 235. Hence acidity may be corrected by exposure to light; and excess- ive sweetness, or insipidity, by removal from light. 236. It is the property of succulent fruits which are acid when wild, to acquire sweetness when cultivated, losing part of their acid. 237. This probably arises from the augmentation of the cellular Gane which possibly has a greater power than woody or vascular tissue of pS ing in the formation of sugar. 238. As a certain quantity of acid is essential to render fruit agreeable to the palate, and as it is the property of cultivated fruits to add to their saccharine matter, but not to form more acid than when wild : ; it follows, that i selecting wild fruits for domestication, those which are acid SaCULE be preferred, and those which are sweet or insipid rejected ; 239. Unless recourse is had to hybridism; when a wild insipid fruit may possibly be improved (204), or may be the means of improving something else. 240. It is very much upon such considerations as the foregoing that the tules of training must depend. IX. Seep. 241. The seed is the ovulum arrived at perfection. 242. It consists of an integument enclosing an embryo, which is the rudiment of a future plant. 243. The seed is nourished by the same means as the fruit : 3 and, like it, will be more or less perfectly formed, according to the abundance of its mutriment. 244, The plant developed from the embryo in the seed, will be in all essential particulars like its parent species, 245. Unless its nature has been changed by hybridizing (204). 246. But although it will certainly, under ordinary circumstances, repro- duce its species, it will by no means uniformly reproduce the particular variety by which it was borne. 247. So that seed are not the proper means of propagating varieties. 248. Nevertheless, in annua! or biennial plants, no means can be em- ployed for propagating a variety, except the seed; and yet the variety is preserved. 249. This is accomplished solely by the great care of the cultivator, and happens thus: 250. Although a seed will not absolutely propagate the individual, yet as a seed will partake more of the nature of its actual parent than of any thing else, its progeny may be expected, as really happens, to resemble the variety from which it sprung, more than any other variety of its species ; 251. Provided its purity has not been contaminated by the intermix- ture of other varieties. 202. By a careful eradication of all the varieties from the neighbourhood of that from which seed is to be saved ; by taking care that none but the most genuine forms of a variety are preserved as seed-plants ; and by com- 12 134 SAP. pelling by transplantation a plant to expend all its accumulated sap in the nourishment of its seed, instead of in the superabundant production of foliage, a crop of seed may be procured, the plants produced by which will, in a great measure, have the peculiar properties of the parent variety. 253. By a series of progressive seed-savings upon the same plan, plants will be at length obtained, in which the habits of the individual have become as it were fixed, and capable of such exact reproduction by seed, as to form an exception to the general rule; as in Turnips, Radishes, &e. 254. But if the least neglect occurs in taking the necessary precautions (252) to ensure a uniform crop of seed, possessing the new fixed proper- ties, the race becomes deteriorated, in proportion to the Want of care that has occurred, and loses its chsracters of individuality. 255. In all varieties those seed may be expected to preserve their indi- vidual characters most distinctly which have been the best nourished (243) ; it is, consequently, those which should be selected in preference for raising new plants, from which seed is to be saved. 256. When seed are first ripened, their embryo is a mass of cellular sub- stance. containing starch, fixed carbon, or other solid matter, in its cavities 5 and in this state it will remain until fitting circumstances occur to call it into active life. 257. These fitting circumstances are, a temperature above 32° Fahrenheit, a moist medium, darkness. and exposure to air. 258. It then absorbs the moisture of the medium in which it lies, inhales oxygen (278), and undergoes certain chemical changes; its vital powers cause it to ascend by one extremity for the purpose of finding light, and of decomposing its carbonic acid (279), by parting with its accumulated oxygen, and to descend by the other extremity for the purpose of finding a constant supply of crude nutriment. 259. Unless these. conditions are maintained, seed cannot germinate; and, consequently, an exposure to light is fatal to their embryo, because (278) oxygen will not be absorbed in sufficient quantity to stimulate the vital powers of the embryo into action, for the purpose of parting with it again, by the decomposition of the carbonic acid that has been formed dur- ing its accumulation. X. Sap. , 260. The fluid matter which is absorbed either from the earth or from the air is called sap. 261. When it first enters a plant it consists of water holding certain principles, especially carbonic acid, in solution. 262. These principles chiefly consist of animal or vegetable matter in a state of decomposition, and are energetic in proportion to their solubility, or tendency to form carbonic acid by combining with the oxygen of the air. 263. Sap soon afterward acquires the nature of mucilage or sugar, and subsequently becomes still farther altered by the admixture of such soluble matter as it receives in passing in its route through the alburnum or newly formed woody tissue (65). 264. When it reaches the vicinity of the leaves it is attracted into them, and there, having been exposed to light and air, is converted into the secre- tions peculiar to the species. AIR AND LIGHT. 135 265. It finally, in its altered state, sinks down the bark, whence it is given off laterly by the medullary rays, and is distributed through the system. 266. No solid matter whatever can be taken off by the roots ; for this reasen, metals, which in the state of oxydes are poisonous, are perfectly harmless in their metallic state, as mercury ; and this is, no doubt, the cause why liquid manure, which contains all the soluble parts of manure in a fluid state, acts with so much more energy than stimulating substances in a solid state. 267. The cause of the motion of the sap is the attraction of the leaf- buds and leaves, 268. The leaf-buds called into growth by the combined action of the increasing temperature and light of spring, decompose their carbonic acid (279), and attract fluid from the tissue immediately below them ; the space so caused is filled up by fluid again attracted from below, and thus a motion gradually takes place in the sap from one extremity to the other. 269. Consequently, the motion of the sap takes place first in the branches and last in the roots. 270. For this reason, a branch of a plant subjected to a high tempera- ture in winter, will grow while its stem is exposed to a very low tempera- ture. 271. But growth under such circumetances will not be long maintained, unless the roots are secured from the reach of frost ; for, if frozen they cannot act, and will consequently be unable to replace the sap of which the stem is emptied by the attraction of the buds converted into branches, and by the perspiration of the leaves (XII.) 272. Whatever tends to inspissate the sap, such as a dry and heated atmosphere, or an interruption of its rapid flow, or a great decomposition of carbonic acid, by full exposure to light, has the property of causing ex- cessive vigour to be diminished, and flower-buds to be produced. 2773. While, on the other hand, whatever tends to dilute the sap, such as a damp atmosphere, a free and uninterrupted circulation, or a great accu- mulation of oxygen in consequence of the imperfect decomposition of car- bonic acid, has the property of causing excessively rapid growth, and an exclusive production of leaf-buds. 274, Inspissated or accumulated sap is, therefore, a great cause of fertility. 275. And thin fluid, not being elaborated, is a great cause of sterility. 276. The conversion of sap into different kinds of secretion is effected by the combined action of Air (XI.), Light (XI.), and Temperature. XI. Arr anv Lieut. 277. When an embryo plant (242) is formed within its integuments, it is usually colourless, or nearly so; but, as soon as it begins to grow, that part which approaches the light (the stem) becomes coloured, while the opposite extremity (the root) remains colourless. 278. The parts exposed to the air absorb oxygen at night, absorb car- bonic acid and part with oxygen again in daylight; and thus in the day- time purify the air, and render it fit for the respiration of man. 279. The intensity of this latter phenomenon is in proportion to the intensity of solar light to which leaves are directly exposed. 280. Its cause is the decomposition of carbonic acid, the extrication of 136 AIR AND LIGHT. oxygen, and the acquisition by the plant of carbon in a solid state; from which, modified by the peculiar vital actions of species, colour and secre- tions are supposed to result. 281. For it is found that the intensity of colour, and the quantity of secretions, are in proportion to the exposure to light and air, as is shown by the deeper colour of the upper sides of leaves, &c. 282. And by the fact that if plants be grown in air from which light is excluded, neither colour nor secretions are formed, as is exemplified in blanched vegetables ; which, if even naturally poisonous, may, from want of exposure to light, become wholesome, as Celery. 283. When any colour appears in parts developed in the dark, it is gen- erally caused by the absorption of such colouring matter as pre-existed in the root or other body from which the blanched shoot proceeds, as in some kinds of Rhubarb when forced. 284. Or by the deposition of colouring matter formed by parts developed in light, as in the subterranean roots of Beet, Carrots, &c. 285. What is true of colour is also true of flavour, which equally de- pends upon light for its existence; because flavour is produced by chemi- cal alterations in the sap caused by exposure to light (229). 286. The same thing occurs in regard to nutritive matter, which in like manner is formed by exposure of leaves to light. Thus the Potato when forced in dark houses, contains no more amylaceous matter than previnusly existed in the original tuber; but acquires it in abundance when placed in the light, and deposites it in proportion as it is influenced by light and air. Thus, also, if Peaches are grown in wooden houses, at a distance from the light, they will form so little nutritive matter as to be unable to support a crop of fruit, the greater part of which will fall off And for a similar reason, it is only the outside shoots of standard fruit trees that bear fruit. Considerations of this kind form im part the basis of pruning and training. 287. Light is the most powerful stimulus that can be employed to ex- cite the vital actions of plants, and its energy is in proportion to its intens- ity ; so that the direct rays of the sun will produce much more pee effects than the diffused light of day. 288. Hence, if buds that are very excitable are placed in a diffused light, their excitability will be checked. 289. And if buds that are very torpid are sevoked to direct light, they will be stimulated into action. 290. So that what parts of a tree shall first begin to grow in the spring may be determined at the will of the cultivator. 291. This is the key to some important practices in forcing. 292. This should also cause attention to be paid to shading buds from the direct rays of the sun in particular cases ; as in that of cuttings, whose buds, if too rapidly excited, might exhaust their only reservoir of sap, the stem, before new roots were formed to repair such loss. 293. As plants derive an essential part of their food from the air (280) by the action of light, it follows that in glass houses those which admit the greatest portion of light are the best adapted for purposes of eultiva- tion. 294. The proportion of opaque matter in the roof of a glass house con- structed of wood varies from one third to one seventh ; that of an iron house does not exceed one twenty-third. PERSPIRATION. 137 295. Therefore, iron-roofed houses are in this respect better suited for cultivation than wooden-roofed houses. 296. And it has been found by experiment, that light passes more freely through a curvilinear than through a plane roof, and through glass forming an acute angle with the horizon than through perpendicular glass, it follows that a curvilinear roof is best, and a plane roof with glass perpendicular sides the worst, adapted to the purposes of the cultivator. 297. For the same reason common green glass is less fitted for glazing forcing-houses than white crown glass. 298. Poisonous gases in very minute quantities act upon vegetation with great energy. A ten-thousandth part of sulphurous acid gas is quickly fatal to the life of plants; and hence the danger of flues heated by coal fires, and the impossibility of making many species grow in the vicinity of houses heated by coal fires, or in large towns. XII. PEeRsprration. 299. It is not, however, exclusively by the action of light and air that the nature of sap is altered. Evaporation is constantly going on during the growth of a plant, and sometimes is so copious, that an individual will perspire its own weight of water in the course of twenty-four hours. 300. The loss thus occasioned by the leaves is supplied by crude fluid, absorbed by the roots, and conveyed up the stem with great rapidity. 301. The consequence of such copious perspiration is the separation and solidification of the carbonized matter that is produced for the peculiar secretions of a species. 302. For the maintenance of a plant in health, it is indispensable that ibe supply of fluid by the roots should be continual and uninterrupted. 303. If any thing causes perspiration to take place faster than it can be counteracted by the absorption of fluid from the earth, plants will be dried up and perish. 304. Such causes are, destruction of spongioles, an insufficient quantity of fluid in the soil, an exposure of the spongioles to occasional dryness, and a dry atmosphere. m% 305. The most ready means of counteracting the evil consequences of an imperfect action of the roots is by preventing or diminishing evapora- tion. 306. Thisis to be effected by rendering the atmosphere extremely humid. 307. Thus, in curvilinear iron hot-houses, in which the atmosphere be- comes so dry in consequence of the heat, that plants perish, it is necessary that the air should be rendered extremely humid, by throwing water upon pavement, or by introducing steam. 308. And in transplantation in dry weather, evergreens, or plants in leaf, ‘often die, because the spongioles are destroyed, or so far injured in the operation as to be unable to act, while the leaves never cease to perspire. 309. The greater certainty of transplanting plants that have been grow- ing in pots, is from this latter circumstance intelligible. 310. While the utility of putting cuttings or newly transplanted seed- lings into ashady damp atmosphere, is explained by the necessity of hins dering evaporation. 138 CUTTINGS. XIII. Currines. 311. When a separate portion of a plant is caused to produce new roots and branches, and to increase an individual, it is a cutting. 312. Cuttings are of two sorts: cuttings properly so called, and eyes (319). 313. A cutting consists of an internodia, or a part of one, with its nodi 759 and leaf-bud. 314. When the internodia is plunged in the earth it attracts fluid from the soil, and nourishes the bud until it can feed itself. 315. The bud, feeding at first upon the matter in the internodia, grad- ually enlongates upward into a branch, and sends organized matter down- ward, which becomes roots. 316. As soon as it has established a communication with the soil, it be- comes a new individual, exactly like that from which it was taken. 317. As itis the action of the leaf-buds that causes growth in a cutting, it follows that no cutting without a leaf-bud will grow ; 318. Unless the cutting has great vitality and power of forming adven- titous leaf-buds (119), which sometimes happens. 319. An eye is a leaf-bud without an internodia. 320. It only differs from a cutting in having no reservoir of food on which to exist, and in emitting its roots immediately from the base of the leaf-bud into the soil. 321. As cuttings will very often, if not always, develope leaves before any powerful connection is formed between them and the soil, they are peculiarly liable to suffer from perspiration. 322. Hence the importance of maintaining their atmosphere in an uni- form state of humidity, as is effected by putting bell or other glasses over them. 323. In this case, however, it is necessary that if air-tight covers are employed, such as bell-glasses, they should be from time to time removed and replaced, for the sake of getting rid of excessive humidity. 324. Layers differ from cuttings in nothing except that they strike root into the soil while yet adhering to the parent plant. 325. Whatever is true of cuttings is true of layers, except that the latter are nct liable to suffer by evaporation, because of their communication with the parent plant. 326. As cuttings strike roots into the earth by the action of leaves or leaf- buds, it might be supposed that they will strike most readily when the leaves or leaf-buds are in their greatest vigour. 327. Nevertheless, this power is controlled so much by the peculiar vital powers of different species, and by secondary considerations, that it is im- possible to say that this is an absolute rule. 328. Thus Dahlias and other herbaceous plants will strike root freely when cuttings are very young ; and Heaths, Azaleas, and other hard-wooded plants, only when the wood has just begun to harden. 329. The former is, probably, owing to some specific vital excitability, the force of which we cannot appreciate; the latter either to a kind of torpor, which seems to seize such plants when the tissue is once emptied of fluid, or to a natural slowness to send downward woody matter, whether for wood or not, which is the real i2* of their wood being harder. % SCIONS. 139 330. If ripened cuttings are upon the whole the most fitted for multi- plication, it is because their tissue is less absorbent than when younger, and that they are less likely to suffer either from repletion or evaporation. 331. For, to gorge tissue with food, before leaves are in action to decom- pose and assimilate it, is as prejudicial as to empty tissue by the action of leaves, before spongioles are prepared to replenish it. 332. For this reason, pure silex, in which no stimulating substances are contained (silver sand), is the best adapted for promoting the rooting of cuttings that strike with difficulty. 333. And for the same reason, cuttings with what gardeners call a heel to them, or a piece of the older wood, strike root more readily than such as are not so protected. The greater age of the tissue of the heel renders it less absorbent than tissue that is altogether newly formed. 334. It is to avoid the bad effect of evaporation that leaves are usually for the most part removed from a cutting, when it is first prepared. XIV. Scrons. 335. A scion is a cutting (311) which is caused to grow upon another plant, and not in the earth. 336. Scions are of two sorts: scions properly socalled, and buds (354). 337. Whatever is true of cuttings is true also of scions, ail circum- stances being equal. 338. When a scion is adapted to another plant, it attracts fluid from it for the nourishment of its leaf-buds until they can feed themselves. 339. Its leaf-buds thus fed, gradually grow upward into branches, and send woody matter downward, which is analagous to roots. 340. At the same time, the cellular substance of the scion and its stock adheres (19), so as to form a complete organic union. 341. The woody matter descending from the bud passes through the cellular substance into the stock, where it occupies the same situation as would have been occupied by woody matter supplied by buds belonging to the stock itself. 342. Once united, the scion covers the wood of the stock with new wood, and causes the production of new roots. 343. But the character of the woody matter sent down by the scion over the wood of the stock being determined by the cellular substance, which has exclusively a horizontal developement (73), it follows that the wood of the stock will always remain apparently the same, although it is furnished by the scion. 344. Some scions will grow upon a stock without being able to trans- mit any woody matter into it; as some Cacti. 345. When this happens, the adhesion of the two takes place by the cellular substance only, and the union is so imperfect that a slight degree of violence suffices to dissever them. 346. And in such cases the buds are fed by their woody matter, which absorbs the ascending sap from the stock at the point where the adhesion has occurred ; and the latter, never augmenting in diameter, is finally over- grown by the scion. 347. When, in such instances, the communication between the stock 140 TRANSPLANTATION, and the scion is so much interrupted that the sap can no longer ascend with sufficient rapidity into the branches, the latter die ; as in many Peaches. 348. This incomplete union between the scion and its stock is owing to some constitutional or organic difference in the two. 349. Therefore, care should be taken that when plants are grafted on one another, their constitution should be as nearly as possible identical. 350. As adhesion of only an imperfect nature takes place when the scion and stock are, to a certain degree, dissimilar in constitution, so will no ad- hesion whatever oecur when their constitutional difference is very decided. 351. Hence it is only species very nearly allied in nature that can be grafted on each other. 352. As only similar tissues will unite (19), it is necessary, in applying ascion to the stock, that similar parts should be carefully adapted to each other ; as bark to bark, cambium to cambium, alburnum to alburnum. 353. The second is more especially requisite, because it is through the cambium that the woody matter sent downward by the buds must pass 5 and also because cambium itself, being organizing matter in an incipient state, will more readily form an adhesion than any other part. 354. The same principles apply to buds, which are to scions precisely what eyes (319) are to cuttings. 355. Inarching is the same with reference to grafting, that layering (324) is with reference to striking by cuttings. 356. It serves to maintain the vitality of a scion until it can form an adhesion with its stock ; and must be considered the most certain mode of grafting. 357. It is probable that every species of flowering plant, without excep- tion, may be multiplied by grafting. 358. Nevertheless, there are many species and even tribes that never have been grafted. 359. It has been found that in the Vine and the Walnut this difficulty ean be overcome by attention to their peculiar constitutions ; and it is pro- bable that the same attention will remove supposed difficulties in the case, of other species. XV. TRANSPLANTATION, 360. Transplantation consists in removing a plant from the soil in which it is growing to some other soil. 361. If in the operation the plant is torpid, and its spongioles uninjured, the removal will not be productive of any interruption to the previous rate of growth. 362. And if it is growing, or evergreen, and the spongioles are uninjured, the removal will produce no farther injury than may arise from the tem- porary suspension of the action of the spongioles, and the non-cessation of perspiration during the operation. 363. So that transplantations may take place at all seasons of the year, and under all circumstances, provided the spongioles are uninjured. 364. This applies to the largest trees as well as to the smallest herbs. 865. But as it is impossible to take plants out of the earth without destroying or injuring the spongioles. the evil consequence of such acci- dents must be remedied by the hinderance of evaporation. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 141 366. Transplantation should therefore take place only when plants are torpid, and when their respiratory organs (leaves) are absent; or, if they never lose those organs, as evergreens, only at seasons when the atmosphere is periodically charged with humidity for some considerable time. 367. Old trees, in which the roots are much injured, form new ones so - slowly, that they are very liable to be exhausted of sap by the absorption of their very numerous young buds before new spongioles can be formed. 368. The amputation of all their upper extremities is the most probable prevention of death ; but in most cases injury of their roots is without a remedy. : 369. Plants in pots being so circumstanced that the spongioles are pro- tected from injury, can, however, be transplanted at all seasons without any dangerous consequences. INTRODUCTION. TO THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. Tus object of the following Calendar is to furnish, in a con- densed form, monthly directions for the culture of some plants not previously mentioned in this work; and also to direct the reader’s attention to the regular management of such plants as have been heretofore treated of. In pursuit of the latter object, references will be made to former pages, so as to exhibit, at one view, the business of the garden in each month of the year. -The figures indicate the pages in which farther directions may be found relative to the operations referred to. 142 MONTHLY CALENDAR. JANUARY. Winter’s white sheet now covers earth’s cold bed ; Pride of our home, the lovely Flowers, are dead ; Some early venturers would the aspect cheer, The first-born children of the dawning year. Having shown, in page 100, that heat, air, and water are the food of plants, and necessary to the preservation of their health and life, if given in due proportion according to cir- cumstances, I would, at this season of the year, especially, salute the gardener with ‘“ Be ye temperate in all things.” Temperance in the use of water is of the utmost import- ance in the winter season, for several reasons which may be given. In the first place, water will attract frost, and, there- fore, should be used very sparingly in frosty weather; another consideration is, that in the absence of heat and air, plants cannot absorb much moisture, and, consequently, must become injured from excessive watering; and it may be observed farther, that it is not. prudent to keep plants in an extremely vigorous state, until the season arrives when the external air is soft and salubrious; they can then have a due proportion of heat, air, and moisture at the same time. Perhaps the next important point to be attended to at this time is, to see that the green-house, or room, in which plants are intended to be preserved, is calculated for the purpose. The room should be light and airy, and. yet so secure as to prevent the intrusion of external cold air, or the departure of warm air in the night season. A Fahrenheit thermometer is indispensable in a green- house, or room, where plants are kept, and the temperature should be always kept up as nearly as possible to forty degrees, in the absence of the sun. Ifthe gardener retire to rest in this variable climate, leaving the mercury much below forty, he may expect to find his plants frozen in the morning. : A good brick flue is better calculated for heating a small green-house than any other contrivance; because, after a sufficient fire has been made to heat the bricks thoroughly, MONTHLY CALENDAR. 143 they will retain the heat through a winter night, whereas an iron stove with its metal pipes will cool as the fire gets low, and expose the plants to cold toward morning, which is the time they most need protection. The heat from iron is, moreover, too dry and parching, while an evaporation or salubrious steam may be raised from bricks, by sprinkling the flue occasionally, which would operate on plants similar to healthful dew-drops. At this season of the year, sitting-rooms, or parlours, are generally heated in the daytime to full twenty degrees higher than what is necessary for the preservation of plants ; consequently, as the heat decreases in the night season, plants often get injured, unless a fire is kept up. Air must be admitted to plants kept in this way, at all opportunities ; and more water will be necessary for such plants, than those kept in a green-house would require. Forthe management of bulbous roots in pots or glasses, the reader is referred to page 94. FEBRUARY. Like shivering orphans on the wide world cast, They feel the rigour of the Northern blast, Whilst Fortune’s Favourites claim the florist’s care, And all the comforts of the green-house share. Having in the previous month discussed some important points relative to the general care of plants, I now proceed to notice a few of those kinds that require attention at this particular season : Camellias, or Japan Roses. There are numerous varieties of this valuable class of plants, exhibiting every shade of colour, from deep crimson to the purest white ; in some imperceptibly blended, in others strikingly contrasted. They are unrivalled objects of beauty from October to May, being set in a fine glossy foliage. 144 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Double Camellias are generally propagated on stocks of the single, which are procured by planting cuttings of the young shoots in light mould under bell glasses; on these, when grown to a sufficient size, are inarched the finer kinds of double. Sometimes these latter are also struck by eut- tines; but as their progress by such method is generally slow and uncertain, it is seldom resorted to. These valuable plants are too often injured by amateurs, from misapplied care bestowed upon them, so that their whole compensation and enjoyment is reduced to the mere possession of a hand- some green shrub. Destined, from the extreme beauty and unrivalled delicacy of their flowers, to become the chief pride and ornament of the green-house and drawing-room in the winter season, Camellias should have a fair chance given them to exhibit their fe bloom in perfection. It should be observed, that Camellias are by no means tender shrubs, but require to be kept in a medium, even temperature, and they generally succeed best in a green- house, where the atmosphere is damp. As the buds begin to swell, they will require more water than at any other time, which may be applied from the rose of a watering-pot, or syringe, while in bud, but when in blossom it should be ap- plied to the earth. If Camellias be kept where there is a dry air, occasioned- from fire heat, they must have plenty of the natural air at all opportunities, or the buds will become brown and fall off; and if they are subject to extreme cold at night, which is too often the case when kept in rooms of an uneven temperature, premature decay of the buds will inevitably be the consequence. To preserve Camellias in a healthy condition, they should be kept in a fresh, moderately light soil, consisting of sandy loam taken from under grass sods, and leaf mould well mixed ; nothing beimg more injurious to them than over- potting ; they should not be shifted into larger pots, until the projection of their roots show evidently that they are in need MONTHLY CALENDAR. 145 of it. Few plants bear privation of sunshine in summer better than these; they should, however, be kept in an open situation, where they can have a full share of light and air. Such bulbous roots as may be in progress of blooming, will require attention this month; turn them frequeutly to the light, as recommended in page 95, and increase the sup- plies of water as they advance toward perfection. Attend to Campanula Pyramidats, Hepeticas, Mimulus, Senecios, and herbaceous plants in general; those not in bud should be watered very sparingly. Shrubby plants, espe- cially those which bud and blossom in winter, and the early part of spring, as the several varieties of the Acacias, Aza- leas, Calceolarias, Correas, Coronillas, Daphnes, Diosmas, Hupatoriums, Eutaxias, Fuchsias, Gnidias, Heaths, Laurus- tinuses, Lemon trees, Rhododendrons, Orange trees, &c.y will require water once or twice a week, according to cir- cumstances, and air should be given at all opportunities, or the plants will not blossom in perfection. For the benefit of such as may wish to raise early plants from seed, or to force Dahlia or other roots, I subjoin the following brief directions for making a small hot-bed: Ina border exposed to the morning sun, let a pit be dug about thirty inches deep, five feet wide, and six long; this will admit of two sashes, each three feet by five. A frame of suitable dimensions may be made of plank ; the back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones sloped so as to make a fifteen-inch plank do for the front. The frame being made, set it over the pit, and then get a load of horse dung, fresh from the livery stables, (not such as has lam long, or may have been soddened with water,) spread it evenly in the pit until full, then put into the frame rich light mould, or compost, to the depth of ten or twelve inches, and the seed may be sown as soon as it gets warm. It may be necessary to observe, that in making hot-beds, the quantity of top mould should be regulated according to the substance of the manure in the pit, and this may vary according to the (3 146 MONTHLY CALENDAR. use the beds are intended for, or to other circumstances. After the seed are sown, the beds will require constant atten- tion ; cover up warm in cold nights, and give air at all oppor- tunities, to prevent the plants from growing weak. As we are subject to northwest winds at this season, which produce extreme freezing, it will be better to delay the making of hot-beds to the first week in March, at which time opportunities will frequently offer of giving plants a tolera- ble share of salubrious air, which is indispensable to their preservation. MARCH. The “ Yellow Crocus,” in her simple dress, And the “pale Primrose,” chaste in loveliness, Though the fierce Storm King rides upon the gale, Foretels of Spring, ’midst snow and cutting hail. As the spring progresses, the external air will be soft and salubrious; at which time it should be freely admitted to plants kept in rooms and green-houses. In proportion as the plants get air, they should have water applied from the rose of a watering-pot. ° Monthly Roses will require attention this month. It should be recollected, that it is from the young wood of these plants that buds are to be expected; their growth should, there- fore, be encouraged, by admitting sun and air at all oppor- tunities, and water when necessary. Primulas. There are several species of plants under this name, which exhibit their blossoms in March and April; some of which are very beautiful, as the Polyanthus, English Spring Flowers, Auricula, &c.; but I would now direct the reader’s attention to the Chinese varieties, some of which are pure white, and others of a lilac colour. They are first raised from seed sown in the spring, and will keep two or three years. pene MONTHLY CALENDAR. 147 Plants that are full grown, will commence blooming in December, and continue to produce umbels of flowers for five or six months, if well attended to; they are generally in their prime this month, at which time a little water should be applied to the earth about twice a week. Many species and varieties of seed may be sown this month in hot-beds prepared as directed under the head February, page 145. Auricula, Polyanthus, and all other species of Primula seed, should now be sown. Mignonette, Ten Week Stock, and Dahlia seed, from choice varieties, may also be sown in pots, and care should be taken, when the plants are up, that they be not injured by excess of moisture. There are some splendid varieties of the Schizanthus which deserve attention at an early season. They are rather difficult of cultivation in pots, being apt to suffer by excess of heat or moisture; and often, when in full bloom, die off suddenly by decays at the bottom of the stem. No plants ' will, however, more amply repay all the care and trouble that may be bestowed on them, than those of the elegant genus Schizanthus. The best soil for them is loam and leaf mould, with a small portion of sand. They should be re- potted as often as the pots are filled with roots, till they come into full flower. All the different varieties of tender annual, biennial, and perennial flower seed, designated thus § and thus ft in our Catalogues, pages 18 and 30, may be sown this month in hot-beds, or in pots kept in the green-house. Hyacinths, Narcissus, and other bulbs in glasses, must have the water shifted every week, and the glasses should be thoroughly washed every two or three weeks, 96. Toward the end of the month, roots of Amaryllis formo- sissima, Gladiolus psiltacinna, Tiger Flower, Tuberose, and such other bulbs as may have been preserved dry through the winter, may now be planted in pots and kept in a green- house or light room, or else plunged in a hot-bed. Those 148 MONTHLY CALENDAR, who have no such conveniences may, however, delay the planting of sound bulbs, until the weather will admit of their being planted in warm borders. Dahlia roots should now be plunged in a hot-bed, to for- ward them, with a view to their being separated, as soonas the eyes are discernible, 77. APRIL. As Nature feels the sun’s life-giving rays, And genial showers now mark the lengthen’d days, Buds and sweet blossoms, redolent of Spring, To meditation soothing moments bring. This is the most important month in the year for gardening operations. If not done toward the end of the last month, the covering must be taken from hardy flowering plants early in this month, and the beds and borders attended to as directed, pages 22 and 37; at the same time, clip edgings of box, and clean, re-lay, or make new gravel walks, &c., 15; prune and transplant flowering shrubs, 39 and 53; trans- plant also hardy herbaceous plants, 34 and 35, Sow flower seed; the hardiest may be sown in the open borders, and the tender in hot-beds, 23 and 33. All the soil of a garden should be dug this month, if pos- sible, and pulverized as directed, 22 and 65. It will be necessary to look over all the green-house plants in the early part of this month; let them be deprived of dead wood, if any, by a careful pruning; at the same time take off all yellow leaves; the earth at the top of the pots should be loosened, so as to admit the sun and air to the roots of the plants, 99 and 101. If insects prevail on Roses or other plants, a fumigation with tobacco will be necessary. Bulbous roots will require some attention this month; those in bloom in the garden should be tied up to wires or MONTHLY CALENDAR. 149 small sticks; and those kept inside should be watered in proportion as they get heat and air. The Calla, or Ethiopian Lily, and the different varieties of Rhododendrons, will need frequent watering while in bud and blossom. Air must be admitted freely to all green-house plants toward the end of this month, in order to prepare them for the exposure of the open garden next month. For the method of managing Dahlia roots, see page ihe prepare to plant tender bulbous roots toward the end of this, or early in the next month. The following should be for- warded in pots, which may be kept in a green-house or warm room, or they may be plunged in a hot-bed: Amaryllises, 67; Gladioluses, 80; Lilies, 84; Tuberoses, 92; Tiger Flowers, 93. Hydrangeas, Pomegranates, Verbenas, and other decidu- ous shrubby plants, should be cultivated early in this month, to promote the production of leaf and flower-buds. Biennial seed, such as Wall Flower and Stock Gilly Flower, also all kinds of tender perennials, should be sown this month, if not previously done in the green-house, or in hot- beds, 23, 33, and 103. For an exhibition of the order of the flowering tribe in this month and the next, the reader is referred to an article, entitled ‘ The Beauties of April and May,’ pages 54 to 62. MAY. The blue ey’d May, rejoicing in her train, Spreads her green mantle o’er the grove and plain ; From beds of Violets grateful odours rise In fragrant incense to benignant skies. As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn tobacco leaves in the ereen-house, so as to fumigate 13* 150 MONTHLY CALENDAR. the plants well, before they are removed into the open gar- den; and such plants as may show any indications of being infested with the eggs of insects, should be sponged with soapsuds, and afterward well syringed and watered. Fre- quent sprinkling from the rose of a watering-pot will pre- vent insects from accumulating; especially if the water be impregnated with tobacco, by a bag of the leaves being steeped therein a few hours previous to using it. Choice Geraniums will need attention this month, in order that they may exhibit their flowers to advantage. When in full bloom, care should be taken not to wet the foliage or flowers; but this may be done freely before the buds are expanded: If awnings were not provided last month for the protec- tion of choice flowers, it should be attended to early in this month, 69, 81, and 92; plant Amaryllises, 68; Double Dahlias, 78 and 79; Gladioluses, 80; Lilies, 84; Tuberose, 92; Tiger Flowers, 93; sow annual, biennial, and perennial flower seed in the open borders, 23 to 33. Attend to the walks, edgings, &c., and see that tall plants are neatly tied to sticks, wires, or stakes, 15, 21, 79, and 81. Procure and plant such perennial plants as may be necessary to make variety in the flower beds, 34. Green-house plants may be set out about the middle of the month, and it should be done in cloudy weather, in order that they may be prepared gradually for the shining of the sun uponthem. A situation exposed to the sun for only one half the day is preferable for most plants, especially if they can be shaded at noon, 35. Many plants, such as Coronillas, Heaths, Aucubas, Myr- tles, Oleanders, and several other sorts, are subject to be in- fested with white and brown scaly insects; if these cannot be effectually taken from the plants by washing and spung- ing, let the plants be headed down early in the month of May, and if they are well attended to, new branches will shoot out on the old stem. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 151 Such Orange trees as were budded last July or August, should be headed down early in this month. Auriculas, Polyanthus, and Daisies, should be separated into single tufts, and planted in a shady border for increase, as soon as they have done blossoming. Such Carnations as may have been wintered in frames should now be exposed to the open air, in the flower borders. Tulips, which will be in full perfection by the middle of this month, will require constant attention. ' Such green-house plants as may have done blossoming may be pruned this month, and if the cuttings be planted at this time they will strike freely, 101. Cuttings of Salvia splendens and fulgens will produce . strong plants for blossoming in August, if planted early in this month. Chrysanthemum cuttings should now be put down, and the suckers divided, and planted singly in bor- ders, or in pots, for flowering in the autumn, 102. JUNE. The blushing glory and the pride of June, Blooms the red Rose—why should it fade so soon ! B’en the gay Twlip finds a rival here, Though rich in tints, warm, delicate, and clear. The principal sowing season may be considered as past 5 but if any failures should have happened of former sowings, seed may be sown the early part of this month, which, if kept watered occasionally, will grow quickly. Green-house plants will need watering every evening, in dry warm weather ; and in the absence of dews, some sorts may need a little in the morning at sunrise, 100; Hydran- geas, Daisies, Polyanthus, Primulas, &c., should be kept shaded from the noonday sun, or they will droop, and some may die. Carnations and Pinks will need frequent waterings at the roots, and the branches should be tied neatly tu rods. 152 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Such flowering shrubs as may have been planted late in the spring season, should be regularly watered in dry weather. Give frequent waterings to the flower beds, in general; cut down dead flower stalks ; remove decayed plants, and care- fully replace them with vigorous ones from the nursery bed. Transplant annual flower plants into the regular beds with a small trowel, or neat dibble, 27. Plant Colchicums, 70; finish planting Datliacy and pro- vide poles for their support, 78 and 79; water them occa- sionally in dry weather. Many sorts of bulbous roots will be ripe by the end of this month ; these should be taken up and dried as directed, _ page 65. Those cultivated in pots should not be watered after the foliage is decayed, until the period of re-germina- tion takes place, 66 and 94. Numerous beautiful flowers exhibit themselves this month, some of which are noticed in an article, entitled ‘ The Beauties of April and May,’ page 54 to 62. There are, however, several others worthy of notice, which are omitted in that article. The several species of Phlox are remarka- bly showy plants, and very desirable to cultivate, as they blossom in their several varieties the whole season. Beside these, are the splendid varieties of Roses, Pinks, Lychnises, Sweet Williams, Fox Gloves, Snap-dragons, Perennial Lu- pins, Verbenas, Veronicas, Valerians, &c. These should all be attended to, and their branches tied to neat stakes, so as to enable them to exhibit, their flowers to the greatest possi- ble advantage. Dahlias that are intended for blossoming this year should be planted by the middle of this month, if not done before, 78. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 153 JULY. Pinks and Carnations, ye are fair to view, Creative wisdom shines in every hue; Ye raise the mind, improve the human heart, And goodly precepts gracefully impart. Green-house plants will need daily care at this season; let them be watered every evening in dry weather. Such Geraniums as may have grown large and unwieldly, should now be pruned, in order that their size and appearance may be improved, 101. Garden Roses, having done flowering for the season, should also be pruned. Cut out all old exhausted wood, and where it is too thick and crowded, shorten such shoots as have flowered, to a good fresh strong eye, or bud, accompanied with a healthy leaf. All wood that grows after this pruning will ripen perfectly, and produce large flowers the ensuing year. If dry warm weather, it may be necessary to water such flowering shrubs and Roses as were planted in the spring ; and if Dahlia plants could be watered two or three times a week, it would be beneficial to their growth. Give regular sprinklings from the rose of a watering-pot, or syringe, to shrubby plants in general, but particularly Camellias, Grange and Lemon trees, &c., in order to keep them in a healthy state. Such bulbous roots in pots, whose foliage have withered, should be kept dry until the period of re-germination, 66 and 94; others may be taken up as soon as ripe, after which the offsets may be parted off, and both these and the parent bulbs dried for planting in autumn, 65. The flower garden should be kept weeded and watered, and the seed gathered as they ripen; apply neat rods to tall- growing and running kinds of plants. Nip off curled and dead leaves, and destroy insects, 15. Orange and Lemon trees may be budded at any time this month, and those which were headed down in the spring 154 MONTHLY CALENDAR. should be examined, and all superfluous shoots must be pruned off with a sharp knife, leaving only the strongest; the tops of which should be pruned off to promote their branching. Myrtles, Oleanders, and such other plants as may have been headed down in May, will need similar treatment. Carnations, Pinks, Pansies, Running Verbenas, &c., may be layed this month for propagation, 33 and 34; many kinds of cuttings, as Geraniums, Roses, and exotic shrubs, may still be planted with success, 50. AUGUST. Brief is the mission of the fragile Flowers 3 Some droop and die e’er close the sunny hours ; Just as a maiden, in life’s opening bloom, Lamented sinks into an early tomb. Green-house plants will need particular attention this month. They should be watered every evening in dry weather, and as soon as the extreme heat of the summer is past, which is generally by the latter end of this month, or early im the next, preparation must be made for replenish- ing with fresh compost, and re-potting such plants as are in- tended to be cultivated through the winter in a green-house, light room, or garden frames. Previous to the commence- ment of this business, let such compost as is suited to the various kinds of plants be provided, 101. Those who may have a number of plants in various sized pots, should provide a few new pots a size larger than the largest in use; the largest plants being shifted into the new pots, leaves the next sized pots for the second-sized plants, and by pursuing this plan of shifting until the whole are done; the smallest pots will be left for such plants as have been propagated in the course of the summer. The shifting of plants requires considerable attention and judgment, as some plants, if kept in too large pots, will sus- tain considerable injury : therefore, in such cases, where the MONTHLY CALENDAR. 155 fibrous roots have not spread around the pot, nothing more is necessary than to rub off a little of the outside mould, and _ then to substitute fresh compost for the roots to run in. Such plants as may have become pot-bound, and whose roots are matted around the pot, will, in many cases, bear reducing. If the matted roots are carefully pared off, and the plants shifted into good fresh compost, they will soon take root, and grow freely; but it will be necessary to prune off all surplus branches of the plants previous to re-potting them, and to shade them for a week or ten days. Pieces of tile, or broken pots, should be laid over the aper- ture at the bottom of the pots, to enable the surplus moisture to drain off, or the roots will sustain injury. The flower beds will need attention this month. Water Dahlias and other choice plants in dry weather; cut down all decayed flower stalks, as soon as the seed is gathered, and pull up annuals as they cease to flower. Plant Oxalises in small pots, 86, and prepare compost fur other tender bulbs to be planted in pots next month. Rose shrubs, Orange, and Lemon trees, &c., &c., should be budded early in this month, if not done before, SEPTEMBER. Still some with vigour lift their lordly heads, Imparting splendour to their cultured beds, In lustrous colours decked, they proudly shine, And look enchanting to their last decline. Such green-house plants as may have been re-potted and pruned in the course of the last month, should be looked over, and if they have taken root, they should be exposed gradually to the sun, and watered moderately in dry weather. Ifany of the green-house plants were plunged in the flower beds, they should be taken up and pruned early in this month, and then put into suitable sized pots, 35. 156 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Half-hardy perennials, such as Carnations, Daisies, Pri- mulas, Lilies, Hydrangeas, &c., should be taken up, divided carefully at the roots, and then put into moderate sized pots, and attended to as before directed for green-house plants. Many hardy kinds of flower seed may be sown this month, 24 and 34. This is a good season to propagate all kinds of hardy perennial plants, by parting the roots ; and those that were raised from seed in the spring, may be transplanted into regular flower beds, in cloudy or wet weather, 27 and 35. Plant Crown Imperials, 69; Persian Cyclamens, 70; Ixias, 82; Lachenalias, 83; Lilies, 84; Ornithogalums, 56 ; Oxalses, 86. Such Chrysanthemums as are intended to be protected while in blossom, should now be taken up and planted in moderate sized pots, 102. Seeds of Schizanthus, Ten-week Stock, Mignonette, and such other species as may be desired to decorate the parlor or green-house, should be sown this month, 103. OCTOBER. Ling’ring and lonely on their trembling stems, Surviving yet, are Flora’s latest gems; Their hour arrives, brown Autumn’s parting breath Sighs o’er the Dahlias and proclaims their death ! In the early part of this month, preparation must be made for the housing of green-house plants. Previous to this being done, let the room or green-house be whitewashed with lime, which will prove pernicious to insects, and prevent their generating among the plants. Begin the first week in this month to place all the shrubby plants, such as Orange and Lemon trees, on the back shelves; others should be so placed that they can be cultivated to advantage, and they should all be arranged in regular grada- tion, so as to have the low-growing or dwarf plants on the front shelves. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 157 Stock Gillies and Wall Fowers should be taken up, potted, and kept in a shady situation until they have taken root. Such Dahlia plants as have been cultivated in pots should be sheltered frem the chilling air, and those in the ground will need attention, 65 and 66. Prepare the ground for all the hardy kinds of bulbous flower roots, 64 and 65. Toward the end of the month plant Anemones and Ranunculuses, 68; Crocuses, 69; Crown Imperials, 69; Gladioluses, 80; Hyacinths, 81; Irises, 82; Ixias, 82; Jonquils, 83; Lilies, 84; Narcissus, 85; Ornitho- galums, 86; Ponies, 87; Tulips, 92. For the management of bulbous roots in pots and glasses, see pages 94 to 96. Prune flowering shrubs, and make new plantations of them, 53. Chrysanthemums should be neatly tied up to small sticks, and watered occasionally with liquid manure, to promote their blossoming in full perfection. Those in pots intended to be protected for late flowering, should be watched and taken in, on the appearance of a frosty night; they may, however, be exposed to the air as much as possible when it is soft and salubrious, as should all other half-hardy plants, 101 and 102. NOVEMBER. As the sweet flowers—men flourish and decay ; Howe’er they shine they quickly pass away; If Virtue bless’d them in their mortal lot, Each has an epitaph, “ Forget me not.” During the continuance of mild weather, green-house plants should have air at all opportunities, and water in pro- portion as heat and air are attainable, 99 and 100. Bulbous roots in pots and glasses will also need attention, 94 to 96. Half-hardy plants, such as Stock Gillies, Wall Flowers, Carnations, Primulas, Hydrangeas, Daisies, &c., must either be placed in frames or in a green-house early in this month. 14 158 MONTHLY CALENDAR. If Dahlia, Tuberose, and other tender roots were not taken up last month, let it be done in due time this month, 65 and 66. Cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, or light litter, 37; finish planting bulbous roots before the frost sets in. Plant Anemones and Ranunculuses, 68; Crocuses, 69; Hyacinths, 81; Irises, 82; Ixias, 82; Jonquils, 83; Lilies, 84; Narcissus, 85; Peonies, 87; Tulip, 88 to 92. These, and all other kinds of plants, will need protection before the setting in of the winter, 65 and 66. Flowering and ornamental shrubs may be planted in mild weather, 53; lay long litter round the roots of them, and also of the Grape vines and other tender plants, shrubs, &c. Before the winter sets in severely, let such Chrysanthe- mums as may have been cultivated in pots be planted in the garden, or as soon as they have done blossoming, 102. Plant Gladioluses in pets, 80; also such other bulbous roots as may be required to be kept in rooms, page 95. Mignonette, and other tender seedling plants under pro- tection, will require attention at this season; they should not be over-watered, or the plants will perish with mildew. Camellias should be frequently syringed while in bud, or watered over the foliage with a rose attached to the water- ing pot, as should all other shrubby plants. DECEMBER. Descending snow, the yellow leaf and sear, Are indications of old Time’s career ; The careful florist tends his sheltered plants, Studies their nature, and supplies their wants. If all was not done as directed last month, there is now no time to be lost. All kinds of tender plants in pots should be set into frames or pits, and plunged in old tan or light mould; and in the event of severe frosts, coverings of mats, straw, &c., must be laid over them. -_MONTHLY CALENDAR. 159 Green-house plants will need constant care and attention. When water is necessary, let it be given in mild weather, 99. In case of accidents happening from frost, | would remark, that the sudden transition from cold to heat is often more de- structive to plants than frost itself. If plants get frozen, and cannot be screened from the rays of the sun, they should be watered as the air gets warm, and before they begin to thaw. If sufficient attention be paid, so as to have the temperature of the house rise gradually as the water is sprinkled over the leaves, it may be a means of preserving plants that would otherwise be destroyed. See that the green-house, or room, in which plants are kept, is so secure as to prevent the intrusion of cold air, or the departure of warm air in the night season. | Collect from heaths and rocks such kinds of earth as are suited to the different species of exotic plants, and gather up leaves of trees. If you intend to make hot-beds of them, they should be put together dry ; but if you intend them for compost, they may be laid together as wet as possible, in order that they may rot, for use in succeeding years. 160 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. Tue Author has appended the following article, entitled ‘Tae Marrimonrat Garpen,’ under the impression that it was appropriate to the subject treated of in this work, and would prove acceptable to most of his readers, especially to the fair sex. THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. Man is formed for social enjoyment, and if it be allowed that “ It is not good for man to be alone,” it may be justly inferred that it is not good for woman to be alone; hence a union of interests indicates a union of persons for their mu- tual benefit. By this union, a sort of seclusion from the rest of our species takes place; and as a garden is a retired apartment, appropriated to culture and improvement, the matried state may not inaptly be compared with it in many respects. It is good and honourable for the human species, pru- dently and cautiously to approach this delightful enclosure. Its entrance is usually extremely gay and glittering, being strewed with flowers of every hue and every fragrance cal- culated to charm the eye and please the taste; but they are not all so; and as there are many persons who may wish to enter this garden at some time or other, who are yet stran- gers to its various productions, their attention should be di- rected to the cultivation of those plants which are beneficial, and to the avoiding or rooting up of those which are injurious. THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 161 - And first, let me caution adventurers in this garden not to dream of permanent happiness ; if you should so dream, experience will soon make you wiser, as such happiness never existed but in the heads of visionaries. If you are desirous that this garden shall yield you all the bliss of which it is capable, you must take with you that excellent flower called Goop Humour, which, uf all the flowers of nature, is the most delicious and delicate ; do not drop it or lose it, as many do, soon after they enter the garden; it is a treasure the loss of which nothing can supply. When you get to the end of the first walk, which contains about thirty steps,l com- monly called “ The Honey Moon Path,” you will find the garden open into a vast variety of views, and it is necessary to caution you to avoid many productions here which are noxious, nauseous, and even fatal in their nature and ten- dency, especially to the ignorant and unwary. There is a low, small plant, which may be seen in almost every path, called InpirFERENCE. Though this is not perceived on enter- ing, you will always know where it grows, by a certain cold- ness in the air which surrounds it. Contrary to the nature of plants in general, this grows by cold and dies by warmth ; whenever you perceive this change in the air, avoid the place as soon as you can. In the same path is often found that baneful flower called JeaLousy, which I advise you never to look at, for it has the strange quality of smiting the eye that beholds it with a pain that is seldom or never got rid of. Jealousy is a deadly flower ; it is the aconite of the garden, and has marred the happiness of thousands. As you proceed, you will meet with many little crooked paths. I advise you, as a friend, never to go into them ; for although, at the entrance of each, it is written in large letters, I am Rient, if you do enter, and get to the end of them, you will find the true name to be PERVERSENESS. These crooked paths occasion endless disputes ; and as it is difficult to make the crooked straight, it is better to avoid + Thirty days. 14° 162 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. them altogether, lest, as sometimes happens, a total separa- tion be the consequence, and you take different paths the rest of your lives. Near this spot you will meet with a rough, sturdy plant, called Oxstinacy, which bears a hard knotty fruit that never digests, and of course must injure the constitution; it even becomes fatal, when taken in large quantities. Turn from it; avoid it as you would the cholera. Just opposite to this grows that lovely and lively shrub called Compxiance, which, though not always pleasant to the palate, is very salutary, and leaves a sweetness in the mouth ; it is a most excellent shrub, and produces the most delicious fruit. Never be without a very large sprig in your hand; it will often be wanted as you go along, for you cannot be happy without it in any part of the garden. In one of the principal compartments stands a very im- portant plant, called Economy; it is of a thriving quality ; cultivate this fine plant with all your care, for it adorns and enriches at the same time. Many overlook it, some despise it, and others think that they may never want it; it is gene- rally overlooked in the gayety and levity with which people enter this place, but the want of it is generally deplored with bitter repentance. There are two other plants of the same species, which are very closely connected, called Inpustry and Frueairy, and I must take leave to tell you, that unless both the male and the female partake largely of their branches, very little success can be expected ; in this they must both unite. Take care that you provide yourself and partner with a supply of each as soon as sie after you enter the garden. There are two or three paths which run much into one another; in them you will find growing interspersed three . plants, which deserve the closest attention of the softer sex; these are called Reeunariry, Exactness, and Smp.icrry, t Do not think, as some do, that when you have once got into the garden, you may be neglectful of these plants. Remem- + In deportment as well as in dress. THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 163, ber that your companion will see your neglect, which wili affect his eye, and may alienate his heart. Bestow a large share of attention on these plants, then, as soon as you enter the garden, for when you are once fairly in, you are in for life; the danger is, that if you neglect them at an early. period, you will not find them afterward. Near these walks is to be found that modest plant, called Houmuiry : It is the Violet, “‘ born to blush unseen, And waste its sweetness on the desert air.” It appears of little worth in itself, but when joined to other virtues, it adds a charm to life, and spreads a fragrance around its wearer. Cultivate, then, with all your care, this sweet little plant, and you will find it prevent the growth of all poisonous and noxious weeds. Allow me also to drop a hint on the subject of Cuntivarion, as connected with Propagation, as that most probably will be your employment in this garden, sooner or later. Should you have the rearing of a young plant, remember that it is frail in its nature, and liable to be destroyed by every blast, and will demand all your care and attention. Should you witness a blast on its dawning beauties, O! how your fond heart will bleed with tenderness, affection, and sympathy ! The young shoot will naturally twine around all the fibres of your frame. Should it live and thrive, spare no pains to “train it up in the way it should go.” Weed it, water it,’ prune it; it will need all your skill. Without this, many weeds and baneful plants will grow up with it, and blast your fondest hopes. Be ever mindful that this is a Trust for which both parties are accountable. Without careful cultivation, what can you expect but the most luxuriant growth of unruly appetites, which, in time, will break forth in all manner of disgraceful irregularities ? What, but that Anerr, like a prickly thorn, will arm the temper with an untractable moroseness? That PrEvisuness, like a stinging nettle, will render the conversation irksome 164 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. and forbidding? That Avaric, like some choaking weed, will teach the fingers to gripe, and the hands to oppress 4 That Revence, like some poisonous plant, replete with bane- ful juices, will rankle in the breast, and meditate mischief to its neighbour? While unbridled Lust, like swarms of noisome insects, taint each rising thought, and render “ every imagination of the heart only evil continually.” Such are the usual products of unrestrained nature! such the furni- ture of the uncultivated mind ! By all means, then, pay due attention to culture. By suitable discipline, clear the soil; by careful instruction, im- plant the seed of virtue. By skill and vigilance, prune the unprofitable and over-luxuriant branches: “ direct the young idea how to shoot,” the wayward passions how to move. The mature man will then become the chief ornament of the garden. Around him Cuarirty will breathe her sweets, and in his branches Hore expand her blossoms. In him the personal virtues will display their graces, and the social ones their fruit; the sentiments become generous, the car- riage endearing, the life useful, and the end happy and peaceful. THE YOUNG GARDENER’S ASSISTANT. PART III. FRUIT DEPARTMENT. cat anc at CONTENTS. OBSERVATIONS ON THE ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. Page. Suggestions on the choice of a situation for an orchard, 7 Of the best methods of preparing the various kinds of soil, 8 Directions for transplanting fruit trees, - - a 9 A communication from a friend, showing his plan of replanting trees, - - - - - - = ne Hints on the arrangement of trees, with a view to ob- tain successional crops of fruit—Different soils described, suited to the various kinds of fruit, - 12 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. Remedies for the prevention and destruction of insects, 13 The best methods of curing diseases in fruit trees, - 14 Composition to be used as a wash for fruit trees, at the time of pruning, - - - - - - 15 Some of the most annoying insects and reptiles described, 16 An earnest appeal to all agriculturists and horticultu- rists, showing the importance of encouraging the inhabitants of cities to preserve their ashes and soot in a dry state, for use on the land, = wate tat OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. The primary object of pruning explained, - - 1 2 Several methods described of pruning and training the vine, &c. - = = = = = - - 22 The benefits arising from judicious pruning, - - 23 Necessary Implements for pruning, &. —- - - 24 Ym CONTENTS. BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. Information respecting the time and manner of budding fruit trees, - - - - - - - - On the choice of scions, and mode of preparing the stocks, Cleft Grafting, Side Grafting, and Whip Grafting ex- plained, - - - - - - - - Saddle Grafting, Root Grafting, and Grafting by Ap- proach, defined, - - - - - - - Directions for making Forsyth’s composition, - - Recipes for preparing liquids for washing the stems and branches of trees, - - - - - - Instructions for making grafting clay and composition, Page. 25 27 28 29 30 31 32 ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. Rules for judging the qualities of fruit trees, - - Directions for the management of Stone Fruits, to pre- vent their gumming at the roots, - - - A guide to the selection of distinct varieties of fruit, - Appte. Its history, cultivation, propagation, &c. - Seventy-six of the choicest varieties of Apples described, Apricot. The best method of training, pruning, &c. explained, - - - - - - - - Select descriptive list of Apricots, - - - - Aumonp. Its history, mode of culture, &c. - - Cuerry. The various kinds enumerated, with direc- tions for their cultivation, - - - - - Thirty-one of the most esteemed varieties described, - Cuxstnur. Its durability and other peculiar charac- teristics adverted to, - - - - - - Cranperry. Its adaptation for garden culture exem- plified, - - - - = - - - Currant. The best mode of cultivation shown, - - Select descriptive list of Currants, = 5 = - 33 34 35 37 39 46 49 50 51 53 56 57 58 60 Fie. A fruit well calculated for cultivation in the United States, : 2 - & és B e ss 61 CONTENTS. The operation of Girdling or Ringing Trees explained, Seventeen of the best varieties of Figs described, : Gooseserry. Description of fifty-eight of the most celebrated varieties, - - - - - - An improved method of managing the Gooseberry, - Grape. The pcculiar characteristics of the Grape Vine defined, - - - - - - - - The different manures adapted to the vine enumerated, On the various methods of propagating, grafting, &c. - Select descriptive list of foreign and native grapes, = - Docter G. W. Chapman’s and Mr. Wm. Wilson’s suc- cessful experiments on their vines, - - - Edward H. Bonsall’s Vineyard Culture explained, — - Doctor R. T. Underhill’s account of his vineyard at Croton Point, = - - - - - - - Concluding observations on training, pruning, and cul- tivating the vine, - - - - - - Muzerry. Some of the most useful species described, with directions for their propagation and cultivation, Nectarine. Important hints, calculated to give this scarce but delicious fruit the best possible chance of success, if strictly attended to, - - - Select descriptive list of Nectarines, - - - - OraneE, Lemon, &c. The several species of this fruit enumerated, &c. = . = ‘e - * Peacu. An elaborate review of the means best calcu- lated to overcome the difficulties attending the cul- tivation of this important fruit, — - - - - Sixty-one of the best varieties of Peaches described, - Pear. A definition of the different qualities of this fruit, with directions for its propagation and culti- vation, - - - = : - - - Observations on the alleged deterioration of the Pear, and other fruits, - - - - - - - Eighty-eight of the most esteemed varieties of the Pear described, - - - - - - - - 85 88 91 94 96 98 105 111 113 115 1V CONTENTS. Pium. The means best adapted for the perfection of Page. this fruit explained, - - - - - - 124 Fifty-three of the finest varieties of Plums described, - Quince. Its history, its use, and method of culture ex- plained, - - - - - - - - Raspserry. All the most celebrated species and varie- ties enumerated, - - - - - - Select descriptive list of Raspberries, - - - - Strawserry. The valuable properties of the Straw- berry, with directions for its cultivation, - - A descriptive list of the most esteemed species and varieties of Strawberries, - - - - - Watnut. Its use both as a fruit and timber tree, - CALENDAR AND INDEX. JaANUARY.—An essay on the importance of improving the various species of fruit, by propagating none but the finest specimens for seed, and by amelio-» rating the existing kinds by Cross Fertilization ; which process is explained in a clear and compre- hensive manner, - - - - - - Fresruary.—An attempt to prepare the young gardener for the timely performance of his work in the or- chard and fruit garden, in a judicious manner, by directing his attention to such business as can be done in unfavourable weather, that he may be en- abled to give prompt attention to other important business before the rise of the sap, and thus prevent much anxiety and labour, - - - Salat Marcu.— Directions for pruning Grape Vines, and Ap- ple, Cherry, Pear, and Quince Trees; for culti- vating Cranberries, Currants, Gooseberries, Rasp- berries, &c.; for preparing the ground for the reception of all kinds of fruit trees as soon as the weather becomes favourable ; for supporting newly planted trees by means of stakes, &c. - : - 126 131 132 135 136 138 140 143 147 149 CONTENTS. Aprit.—aAttention is directed to the pruning of fruit trees, including Apricot, Almond, Fig, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, Plum, &c.; also, to the cultiva- tion and propagation of trees, shrubs, and vines, by cuttings, layers, grafting, and other methods, - May.—The gardener is reminded of the importance of finishing the work that was left undone last month without further delay; and of attending to the de- struction of insects while in a torpid state, and the preservation of the Gooseberry and other fruits from mildew. By cultivating Raspberries and Strawberries as directed in April and June, such fruits may be produced at alate season, = - - June.—The business of this month in the fruit garden consists of summer pruning, clearing the trees and vines of dead leaves and insects, and of protecting .and cultivating early fruit to promote its ripening in full perfection, - - - - - - Juty.—Remedies for the protection of fruit from birds and ants, and for preserving Grape Vines from mildew. Judicious summer pruning, and atten- tion to Figs, Vines, &c., recommended, - - Aveust.—As insects are engendered in vast quantities by the heat of our summers, the attention of gar- deners is directed to the use of bitter and acrid substances, which being made into a compost, is calculated to improve the land, as well as to destroy insects, - - - - - - - - Sepremper.—The subject treated of under this month relates chiefly to the rejection of various fruits, by many cultivators, and to the propensity of some persons to neglect old inmates of the garden for’ the sake of trying other varieties, merely because they are new, - - - - - - - Page. 151 153 155 156 158 160 vi CONTENTS. Ocroser.—It is suggested that attention be paid to the careful gathering of fruit, while in a perfect state; also to the preservation of Grapes, &e. Directions for planting the pits of Cherry, Peach, Plum, &e., and the kernels of Apple, Pear, and Quince; alse for preparing the ground for the reception of all kinds of hardy fruit trees 6n the decline of the sap, Novemser—As winter is fast approaching, it is recom- mended to protect tender vines, trees, shrubs, and plants, including Raspberry, Fig, Strawberry Plants, &e.; and to plant hardy fruit trees while the land is susceptible of being tilled, - = = Deceuser—At all favourable opportunities during this month the gardener is directed to prune hardy fruit trees, to serape off all the moss and canker, and to wash the stems and branches with a Hquid pre- pared according to a recipe given, - Spot es Aw Appress ro THE Psorte or THE Unrrep Srares. on the subject of an alleged discovery on Terra- Culture, submitted to the attention ef the 25th and 26th Congress, - - - - - - > A summery view of estimates, furnished with a view to aid the Seedsman and Gardener in making out a bill of seed, for the purpose of planting any given quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested in the vegetable department of the Young Gar- deners Assistant, - - > - - - 162 163 164 165 170 OBSERVATIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. In the preliminary observations on the subjects already treated of, 1 am aware that it may appear to some that I have not sufficiently urged the importance of a judicious selection of situation, exposure, aspect, soil, &e. My object in not insisting on a strict attention to these important points _ was, because I know that, though good land is abundant in this extensive country, it is impossible for every one to choose for himself; and rather than any disadvantages in these respects should discourage proprietors of land from attempt- ing to raise garden products, so necessary to the comfort and convenience of every family, I have endeavoured to show them how to use to advantage whatever land may surround their places of abode. As, however, some have a choice, it may be necessary to offer some farther remarks on the subject. The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should be one that has the advantage of a free circulation of air, and is exposed to the south, with a slight inclination to the east and southwest. When the situation is low and close, the trees are very liable to become mossy, which always injures them, by closing up the pores of the wood; they are also more liable to be affected by blight. Although having an orchard closely pent up by trees, &c., is injurious, neverthe- less a screen of forest trees, at such a distance from the fruit trees as that the latter will not be shaded by them, is of very great service in protecting the trees in spring from severe cold winds. 8 OBSERVATIONS ON THE A good strong loamy soil, not too retentive of moisture, to the depth of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable for an orchard. Great attention must be paid to the sub- stratum, as the ground must be well drained; for if the top soil be ever so good, and the bottom wet, it is very rarely the case that the trees prosper many years, when they begin to be diseased and go to decay. As it is so indispensably necessary to the success of fruit trees that the bottom should be dry, if it is not naturally so, it must be made so by judi- cious draining. When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by draining, it must be done some time before the trees are planted. In performing this work, the ground must be trenched, and when the trench is open, stone, or brick-bats, &c., must be laid over the bottom to the thickness of six inches, a little coal ashes, or small gravel, must be sprinkled over the top of the stones, &c., and then the surface gently rolled. Drains may also be made in different directions, so that any excess of moisture can be taken entirely away from the ground. It is well known to most cultivators, that exposure of soils to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is experienced by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff and stub- born, small gravel, sand, coal ashes, lime, light animal and vegetable manure, and other light composts, are very appro- priate substances to be applied, and will, if carefully managed and well worked into the ground, soon bring it into a proper condition for most purposes. Previous to laying out an orchard or fruit garden, the soil should be manured and pulverized to a great depth. It should be made sweet, that the nutriment which the roots receive may be wholesome; free, that they may be at full liberty to range in quest of it; and rich, that there may be no defect in food. If orchards are made from meadows or pasture lands, the ground should be improved as much as possible by manur- ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. 9 ing, trenching, ploughing, &c. If this is not done to its full extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in width along where the fruit trees are to be planted, and at the time of planting let the holes be dug somewhat larger than is ‘sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sulficient depth to allow of a foot of rich and well-pulverized mould to be thrown in before the trees are planted. In transplanting trees, they should not be placed more than an inch or two deeper than they were in the nursery bed, and the earth intended for fillmg in should be enriched and well pulverized by mixing in some good old manure; and if any leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potato tops, or other refuse of a farm, are attainable, let such be used around the trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized mould is admitted among the fine roots. The trees in planting should be kept at ease, and several times shaken, so as to cause an equal distribution of the finer particles of earth to be con- nected with the small fibres of the roots; and when com- pletely levelied, let the ground be well trodden down and moderately watered, which should be repeated occasionally after spring planting, if the weather should prove dry. As some difference of opinion exists among practical men as to the best time for planting fruit trees, the following extract from Mr. Prince’s Treatise on Horticulture is sub- mitted : “SEASONS FOR TRANSPLANTING. Spring is the season when we find the most pleasure in making our rural improve- ments, and from this circumstance, probably, it has become the general season for planting trees; but experience has proved autumn planting to be the most successful, especially in those parts of the United States which are subject to droughts, as trees planted in autumn suffer little or none from drought, when those set out in spring often perish in -consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with regard to those fruits that have been originally brought from warmer cli- 10 OBSERVATIONS ON THE mates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which are natives of Persia, Armenia, &c., it is necessary for us to consult the operations of climate also; and, from a consideration of those attendant circumstances, I have come to the following conclusions: In localities south of New-York, autumn planting is preferable only for the Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees of northern latitude; whereas, the spring is to be preferred for the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which, for the reasons before stated, might, during severe winters, suffer fiom the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean to assert, that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured by the winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the least affected ; still they are exposed to vicissitudes which may or may not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of excellent judgment, make their plantations in the autumn, which only serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent minds a diversity of opinion exists. : ‘‘ TREES, ETC., ON THEIR ARRIVAL AT THE PLACE oF Dzs- TINATION. As soon as the trees arrive at the place where they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated ground, the bundles unpacked, the roots well wetted, and immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to make the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to leave vacancies for the admission of air to dry the roots, it having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees the first year after transplanting, depends much on the fine fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry from the time they are taken up until they are replanted ; their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the subsequent management on their arrival at the place of des- tination; for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all, can- not thrive the first season, as they can receive little or ne nourishment until these fibres are replaced. ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN, 11 “To cause THe Trees to Turive. The ground where they are planted must be kept cultivated; young trees will not thrive if the grass be permitted to form a sod around them; and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and free from grass for three or four feet distant around them, and every autumn some well-rotted manure should be dug in around each tree, and every spring the bodies of the Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry trees, and others that it is patticularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water ; this treatment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing the expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect, Should the first season after transplanting prove dry, regular watering will be necessary, as from neglect of proper atten- tion in this respect, many lose a large portion of their trees during a drought ”’* Such kinds of fruit trees treated on in this work, as may require any other than good ordinary soil, may be supplied, * The following letter was received by the Author while he was pre- paring the copy for the ninth edition of this work : “In reading your very useful and entertaining work on Gardening, Planting Trees, and otherwise, I need not say, to me, it contained much that was new, original, and very useful ; yet, complete as is your admirable work, I found not therein one circumstance connected with replanting trees, of vital importance to be observed, particularly with those trees which have attained several years’ growth, say trees from fifteen io twenty feet high, and from three to five inches diameter. Some seven or eight feet above the root, that is to say, at the time of digging up the tree, a mark should be made on the north or south side of the tree; and on replanting the same, it should be set into the ground as nearly as possible in the same position to the sun (north or south) as it occupied before taken up, other- wise the tree will not be so thrifty ; if its sides are changed, it not unfre- quently appears sickly, and ultimately dies. Over twenty years’ experi- ence in replanting some thousands of hard and soft Maple, Elm, and others, enables me to speak positively on this precaution. Whenever the community calls for another edition of your work, in that part relating to Replanting Trees, if you deem the above suitable for insertion therein, it might assist many who have not this knowledge, and oblige, “Yours with esteem, Joun Crowgs, C. E.” 12 ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. by judicious management; and if a proper attention be paid to the situation and aspect in arranging a fruit garden, each kind may be so accommodated as to promote its fruits’ ripen- ing earlier or later than the ordinary season, by varying the aspect; but Grape Vines, or other tender fruits, should not be planted where the sun’s influence does not fully operate. Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall, it is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different aspects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a southern aspect, which will ripen earliest ; next, against either an eastern or western ; and lastly, against a northern aspect; by observing this method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums, Gooseberries, Currants, &c., the fruit will ripen in succes- sion, and thus a supply is considerably lengthened. The early blooming fruit trees will sometimes need protection in warm aspects; for which arrangements may be made by keeping awning, matting, netting, &c., at hand, to shelter them with in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense heat of the sun after a frosty night; this, with a sprinkling of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious consequences from slight frost. _ Those who have various soils, should suit them to the dif- ferent kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears require a strong loam, but the Pear rather the lightest. Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines, a good deal lighter than the Apple and Pear. Such fruits as may require peat, bog, or any other extraordinary kinds of earth, will be noticed as we proceed. 13 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. Mucu may be written relative to the various diseases to which fruit trees are liable, and also to the prevention and destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects, which very frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our garden. The preventive operations are those of the best culture. Autumn ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the larve of bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense frost of our winters, and the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, &c., are beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete destruction effected, by the use of soapsuds, lye, tar, turpen- tine, sulphur, pepper, soot, decoction of elder, walnut leaves, tobacco, and other bitter and acrid substances; but perhaps the most effectual way of keeping some of the most perni- cious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such fruit as may fall from the trees, before the insects have an opportu- nity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter. Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavourable situations, they often become diseased; when this happens, the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees clean by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do, they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation. Barrenness and disease are generally produced by the bad qualities of the earth and air, by a want of water, or by the inroads of insects. These incidents generally show them- selves in the early part of the year. Leaves and shoots of any colour but the natural green; curled and ragged leaves: 14 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, branches in a decaying state ; shoots growing from the roots, instead of from the stem or trunk; the stem diseased in its bark, the gum oozing from various parts thereof, are all proofs of the existence of disease. The Peach tree is sub- ject to a disease called the yellows; and the discoloured leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms which so frequently attack the root; where these are found, they may be removed by a knife or chisel; but if it should appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to prevent other trees from being infected. The Pear, and also the Quince, and sometimes other trees, are subject to the fire bight; this malady may be completely checked on its first appearance, by cutting off and immediately burning the injured branches. Generally speaking, careful pruning, cleaning the bark all over with a brush, applying soap or tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting gocd earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy most dis- eases in fruit trees; removing them from a bad to a better soil will, of course, effect this, where it proceeds from a poorness of land; for the old adage, “‘ Remove the cause, . and the effect will cease,” will be here exemplified. To cure the oozing of the gum, nothing more is necessary than to cut away the diseased parts of the bark; and by thus assisting nature in casting out the excrementitious, or nox- ious Juices, a complete cure may be effected. When a tree is affected by mildew, let it be immediately sprinkled with soapsuds, and then be dusted over with sul- phur and tobacco dust, or snuff; at the same time, dig. around the tree, and examine the soil and subsoil; if it be wet and cankery, it should be taken away, and replaced with good healthy soil, and the ground drained; if, on the con- trary, the ground be dry, give it a plentiful watering; the same remedy may serve as a preventive of the extension of blight, if applied in time. When any canker is vbserved, the part affected must, at the time of pruning, be cut clean out, and the part thus dressed be pared, so that no water AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 15 can lodge in the wound; when this is done, let a quantity of soot be mixed with water, and a little train oil well worked among it, but so that the mixture finally remains stiff; this _may be plastered over all the wounds that have been pruned. The application of this mixture keeps out the wet from the wounds, where it would be likely to lodge, and both the soot and oil promote vegetation. When trees are cankery from having a bad subsoil, it is in vain to apply any remedy till the ground is properly drained, some fresh soil mixed with the natural soil, and the tree replanted. When trees are known to be so situated as to be particularly liable to the attacks of insects or disease, they should be attended to at the time of winter or early spring pruning, in order to de- stroy the insects in their larve state. The following compositions have been known to protect fruit trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by bemg used as a wash to the trees immediately after pruning. The constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger mixture of ingredients than others; but the proportions, as hereafter described, will not be injurious to any, but will be effectual in the destruction of the larvee of insects. For Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach Trees. To eight gal- lons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper. For Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum Trees. ‘To four gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of com- mon sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of black pepper. For Figs and Vines. To four gallons of water add half a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a quarter of an ounce of black pepper. All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied to the bark of the trees with a suitable brush.* * For the destruction of the Apis, which frequently attacks the Apple, as well as other fruit trees, while young, an application of diluted whale- oil soap to the leaves and branches has been found very efficacious. 16 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, The most destructive enemy to our fruit is the Curculio; this insect passes the winter in the earth in a chrysalis state, and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will be ready to commence its attacks at about the time the blos- soms appear on our fruit trees. The eggs are deposited in the Apple, Pear, and also all stone fruit, at a very early stage of their growth; these eggs soon hatch, and small maggots are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop off prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this fruit be gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs, geese, or other animals, a check may be put to their ravages in suc- ceeding years; but if suffered to remain on the ground, they will supply food to myriads of their destructive race, which may not be so easily extirpated. The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the destruction of which many experiments have been tried. Some apply bandages round the body of the tree, smeared over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females in their ascent to the tree; but as these tormentors are fre- quently on the move from November to the end of June, this must be a very tedious as well as uncertain process. As. this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk of the tree, and not more than three or four inches from the ’ surface of the earth, good culture, and a moderate use of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingredient, is the most likely way to destroy them. The bark-louse is another Be te insect; they resem- ble blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to be imperceptible ; they often prove fatal to the Apple tree, by preventing the circulation of the sap. These insects may be conquered by washing the trees with soapsuds, tobacco water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be made of soapy water, salt, and lime, thickened to the consistency of cream or paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with a brush to the trunk and limbs of the trees; this should be done at the latter end of May, or early in June, and the cracks in the bark should be completely covered. AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 17 The Apple-tree borer is said to deposit its eggs beneath the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to be found in the spring of the year, by digging round the tree, and clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken out with a knife or gouge, and destroyed. After the worms are removed the wounds should be covered over with grafting clay and wood ashes mixed, and the earth then returned to the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayers’ mortar early in the spring, around the base of the tree, so as to cover the part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks. Although our limits will not admit of a farther description of the various sorts of insects which injure our gardens, and frequently destroy the fruit of our labour, I cannot forbear directing the attention of our citizens to the importance of saving all kinds of ashes. If all agriculturists and horticul- turists were to offer an inducement to the inhabitants of large cities, to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote for many kinds of insects; and our citizens would be at less risk from fire, by having a brick vault on their premises for safely keeping them. In England, a private dwelling is not considered complete without an ash-vault; and a good farmer would dispense with his barn, rather than be destitute of an ash-house. I have known farmers to supply the cottagers with as much peat as they could burn, on condition of their saving them the ashes; and there are some that will keep men under pay throughout the year, burning peat for the same purpose; and any thing that has passed the fire is so valuable, that a chimney-sweep will frequently clean chim- neys for the sake of the soot, which is conveyed miles into the country, and sold at a price sufficient to reward the col- lectors, besides paying all expenses; even the house-keep- ers’ ashes in cities is a marketable article at all times, bring- ing from ten to twenty-five cents per bushel, when kept dry and clean, and a guinea a load was formerly the common price in the villages of Berkshire and Hampshire. Q* 18 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, While on this subject, I would urge the importance of a spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators were to prepare turfs from tanners’ bark, peat-earth, coal dust mixed with clay, cow dung, &c., and get them dried in the summer season, these, by being preserved through the winter, may be burned around fruit orchards, while the trees are in blos- som, and if the fires are properly managed, a smoke may be kept up by heaping on damp litter every night; this will prove pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, and the ashes being spread on the ground, will serve as a means of destruction to others. An orchard thus managed every year, will need no other manure. The smoking should be effected first on one side of the plantation, and afterward. on the other, or heaps may be prepared in different parts of the orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may serve to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I know a gardener in the neighbourhood of New-York, who saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after its having been used as a covering for his Spinach; and I have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent reme- dy for securing fruit trees from insects, especially if some coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The damper the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will create ; and if a little tar, pitch, sulphur, or other pernicious combustible be sprinked among them, it will be beneficial. This subject appears to me of the utmost consequence to the farmer, as well as to the community at large; I, there- fore, cannot forbear offering some farther observations. It must be acknowedged that, although this country con- tains an abundance of wovd, coal, and peat, as well as almost every other description of fuel, yet the poor of our large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold; and if all the tales of wo could be sounded in the ears of a sympa- thizing community during our severe winters, I am persuaded they would arouse them to the consideration of a remedy. It is an acknowledged fact that the poor of Europe are AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 19 cheaper and better supplied with fuel than those of this country. ‘This arises, in a great measure, from the circum- stance of ashes being held in high estimation by agricultur- _ ists; they are consequently a saleable article in their large towns and cities, at a price equal, in some instances, to half the cost of a winter’s fuel. Now I would ask, how is it that ashes are not as valuable to the farmers here as they are in Europe? The extreme heat of the summer must certainly engender insects in equal if not greater proportions; and as respects manure, it must be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country than it is in the densely peopled countries of Europe. Perhaps some may answer, that ashes are already used by our culti- vators to a considerable extent; but I would remind such, that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weather, (as in our city,) they lose their virtue, so that a load may not be worth more than a bushel would be, if kept dry and clean. The farmers of Europe consider peat ashes of more value than any others, and I am persuaded that, could they be fairly tested by some of our best cultivators, great good would result to the community. If the farmers in England can afford to keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for the sake of the ashes, it is natural to suppose that the poor of our community may be placed in easier circumstances as respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres of land are to be found in the States of New-York and New-J ersey, and within a few miles of this city, which abound with peat earth; and the owners of such have already begun to ex- plore their treasures of this description. Good peat is now to be had in the city at the low price of eight cents per bushel, or three dollars per chaldron. It burns well in all sorts of stoves and grates, whether made for wood or coal, and also on the hearth; and if the ashes are not used to any better purpose than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the cheapest fuel known. I am persuaded that this subject is 20 OBSERVATIONS, ETC. worthy of serious consideration, and if the editors of the different papers would arouse the public attention, so as to direct some of our most active citizens to a consideration of this subject, incalculable good would result to the commu- nity at large. If the public authorities of our cities, and all those who distribute fuel among the poor, gratis, would give them peat instead of wood, it would be much cheaper, and would answer every purpose to the consumers. ‘Twelve bushels might be given in the first winter month to each of the ap- plicants, instead of wood, with a strict injunction to save their ashes in a dry state, in order to their being taken in exchange for a future supply of peat. It could be easily ascertained how much ashes twelve bushels of peat would make ; and if a strict attention be paid to the conditions of exchange, it would soon be discovered which of the appli- cants was the most entitled to the distributor’s bounty. The same sheds which it would be necessary to provide for hous- ing the peat, could be used as a deposit for the ashes. If such sheds be conveniently constructed to hold each a mode- rate quantity, the first which is emptied of peat may be filled with the first ashes that are returned in exchange for a future supply of fuel, and they could all be used for the same pur- pose as they become empty. These ashes, when fairly tested, may become a merchantable article as in Europe; and it is very probable that farmers may be induced to take them in exchange for future supplies of peat; they could, however, be conveyed into the country at a trifling expense, and would, no doubt, meet with a ready sale. 21 OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. In training and pruning fruit trees and vines, particular attention is required. To supply a tree with a sufficiency of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark and wood in an uninterrupted succession from the root to the extremities of the branches; pruning, therefore, is use- ful to remedy any defect, as well as to take off superfluous wood, and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning may be performed at different seasons of the year, according to the kinds of fruit, which will be shown under each head, as we proceed. In the spring or summer pruning, be careful not to destroy the germs of future fruits, but merely remove all unservice- able sprigs. Inthe winter season, make your selection from the wood shoots of the preceding year; keep those which appear the most healthy, and cut away those which seem redundant. Beginners had better prefer the spring, as the buds will then be a guide for them to go by; but this busi- ness must not be delayed too late in the season, as some kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned untimely. When the sap rises in Grape Vines, &c., before the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and it is not easily stopped. When this happens, sear the place, and cover it with meited wax, or with warm pitch spread upon a piece of bladder; or peel off the outside bark to some distance from the place, and then press into the pores of the wood, a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the con- sistence of putty. Vines will bleed in autumn as well as ip £2 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. spring, though not so copiously. The best preventive is: timely or early pruning in the spring, and not pruning until the wood is thoroughly ripe in autumn. With respect to the manner in which vines, and some particular kinds of trees, should be trained, opinions are at variance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight and direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and others again in a serpentine form, &c. If vines be trained on low walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which from a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizontally on each side. It has been remarked, that in order to be a good trainer of vines, a man must have some forethought, and be capable of making his selection, as the plants shoot. He must pre- determine how he shall prune, and where he shall cut at the end of the season; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to his mind. He has this more effectually in his power, with respect to the vine, than any other fruit tree, on account of its rapid growth and docility. In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud. Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt to weaken the shoot of next season, and sometimes to pre- vent its vegetating at all, the buds being very susceptible of injury, on account of the soft and spongy nature of the wood. In cutting out old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping direc- tion, and to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to pre- vent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the old wood be carefully peeled off, observing not to imjure the sound bark, and clear the trellis of branches, leaves, tendrils, &c. Let the shoots and branches afterward be regularly laid in, at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots that are expected to bear next season. As to others, it is not so. material how near the young shoots be placed to the uid, even though they sometimes cross them. Choose ON TRAINING AND FRUNING. 23 strands of fresh matting, or pack thread, to tie with; and observe to leave sufficient room for the swelling of the shoots and branches next season. By attending to the proper training of fruit trees, every advantage is promoted, and by a judicious management in other respects, wood may not only be obtained, but preserved in every part of the tree, so that it will bear down to the very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and equally con- ducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees are young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a sup- ply of bearing wood in future years, for when this is neg- lected, and they become naked, it is sometime before a sup- ply can be recovered. In shortening a branch, always take care to cut in a direction a little sloping, and the middle of all standard trees should be kept as open as possible. It is requisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be ragged, but clean, and in the operation be careful that the knife does not slip, so that another branch be cut or damaged. The general pruning of fruit trees is indifferently per- formed by many persons at any time from autumn to spring, and it may be so done without any great injury to them, provided mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and the wood be well ripened. Although it may be advantageous to prune trees early in the winter, when the wood is well ripened, yet, when the wood is green and the buds have not arrived at a mature state, it is requisite in such cases to defer pruning until spring, taking care, however, that it is perform- ed before the moving of the sap. The necessity of this arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not ripened in autumn, the sap is then in an active state, and will con- tinue so until the frost, &c., cause it to become stagnant; and if the shoots were shortened while the sap was in mo- tion, the buds would be considerably injured, and the tree weakened ; such unripe shoots are also more liable to suffer by the severity of winter, and when the pruning is deferred 24 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. until spring, all such parts as may have been affected by the weather, can be removed to the extent to which the damage has been sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood in the autumn would be injurious, so it frequently is when it is done during winter, and the more so according to its severity; because, whenever a cut is made on such green wood, the frost generally affects it, as the sap is not so dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able to resist its intense- ness. Whatever method is adopted in training trees, care should be taken to keep the two sides as nearly equal as possible ; this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the fan or horizontal method. For espalier trees, the horizontal method has many advantages over any other; the small compass within which the trees are obliged to be kept, requires such a direction for the branches, in order to make them fruitful; and were very high trellises formed, so as to admit of the trees being trained in the fan method, such would be very objectionable, by reason of the shade they would cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the benefit of a warmer temperature, which those less elevated receive. As some young gardeners may not know what is meant by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that espaliers are hedges of fruit trees, which are trained up regularly to a frame or trellis,of wood-work ; they produce large fruit plen- tifully, without taking up much room, and may be planted in the Kitchen Garden without much inconvenience to its other products. or espalier fruit trees in the open ground, a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, according to taste or fancy. The implements employed in pruning, and the manner of using them, are matters of moment. If the operation is commenced when the tree is young, and judiciously followed up, a good knife, a small saw, a mallet, and a chisel fixed ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 25 on a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the branches, are all the tools that are required. A large saw will be occasionally wanted; but an axe or hatchet should never be employed, as they fracture the wood, bruise and tear the bark, and disfigure the tree. BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are operations that equally depend for their success upon the property that buds possess of shooting roots downward, and stems up- ward; but in these practices, the roots strike between the bark and wood of the stock, instead of into the earth, and form new layers of wood, instead of subterranean fibres. The success of such practices, however, depends upon other causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings. It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between the scion and the stock, so that when the descending fibres of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of the stock, they may not be liable to subsequent separation. No one can have studied the economy of the vegetable kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in contact with each other. BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. To bud trees, let the following method be adopted: Pro- cure a knife which has a thin blade, and a sharp ivory han- dle; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the buds can be easily inserted. Have some good strong bass in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. When 26 ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stock transversely, and from the middle of this cut make another downward, at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in the form of a T; then from one of your sprigs proceed with expedition to take off a bud; this is effected as foliows: Insert the knife a little more than half an inch below the bud or eye, force it into the wood, drawing it under the bud, and cut the piece off across the shoot ; then immediately let that part of the wood which was cut off with the bud be separated from it, which may be readily done with the knife, by placing the point of it between the bark and wood at one end, and, holding the bark in one hand, pull off the woody part with the other, which will readily come from the bark, if the tree from which it was taken be in a vigorous con- dition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the bud remains perfect; if there is no hole in it, let it be im- mediately inserted into the stock, which is done by raising with the handle of your knife the bark of the stock downward on each side from the cross cut, and thrusting the bud in be- tween the bark and the wood, applying it as close as possi- ble. As soon as the bud is put into its place, bind it securely with bass, beginning a little below the cut, and proceeding upward, till you are above the cross cut, taking care to miss the eye of the bud, just so that it may be seen through the bandage of the bass. About a week or ten days after the stocks have been budded, they should be examined, when such as have united will appear fresh and full, and those that have not taken will appear decayed; in the former case the bandage may be left off, and in the latter case, the stock may be budded in another place, provided the first operation was done in the month of July or early in August, as these are the two most preferable months for budding fruit trees in general. Budding is, however, often attended with success, if done early in September. Scattop Buppine is performed by cutting fiom a small stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in length, OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. By. and taking from a twig a thin scallop of wood of the same length; this is instantly applied, and fitted perfectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly bound with wet bass matting. This may be performed in the spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the month of July. The French practice this mode on Roses. GRAFTING. Grafting is the taking a shoot from one tree and inserting it into another, in such a manner that both may unite closely, and become one tree. These shoots are called scions or grafts, and in the choice of them, and the mode of preparing some descriptions of stocks, the following hints will be useful : Those scions are best which are taken from the lateral or horizontal, rather than from the strong perpendicular shoots. The shoots of Apples, &c., should be taken from healthy trees late in autumn, or before the buds begin to swell in the spring, and buried half of their length in the ground, or in ‘a cool and dry cellar; there to remain until the season of grafting. For some descriptions of trees, the stocks are headed down near to the ground. In nurseries, Apples intended for standards are generally grafted about nine inches high only, allowing them to grow up standard high, and forming their heads upon the second year’s shoots. In cider coun- tries, the stock is generally trained up standard high; and when grown sufficiently large for the purpose, it is grafted at the height at which it is intended the head of the tree shall be formed. As respects trees in general, directions will be found under their appropriate heads. The business of grafting is generally performed in March and April: there are various methods of grafting, but the following are those most generally practised : 28 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. Cirrr Grartine. This mode of grafting is generally practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter, and may be performed in the following manner: Let the head of the stock be carefully sawed off at a part free from knots, and the top pared smooth; then with a thin knife split down the stock through the centre to the depth of about two inches, and insert a wedge to keep it open for the reception of the scion. The scion must be prepared in the form of a wedge, with an eye, if possible, in the upper part, and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion and of the stock may both exactly meet. Large stocks require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes four are inserted. When done, tie them firmly together with bass, and then cover the grafted part with well-prepared clay, in an oval form, and close it securely. Stiwz Grarrine. This mode is sometimes practised on those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are two ways in which it may be performed. 1st. The scion may be prepared in the same manner as for splice grafting, and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping ; the scion being then adjusted as carefully as possible, it must be bound on and covered with clay. 2d. The scion being cut sloping, a cross-cut is ‘to be made in the side of the tree on the top of a perpendicular slit; the bark of a tree above the cross-cut must be pared down slanting to the wood, and the bark raised as in budding; the scion being then inserted, it must be bound fast, and covered with clay. Serice, or Wuip Grartine. This mode is often practised on small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion and stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should consist of young wood of the former year’s growth, may be cut to the length of about four inches. This and the stock are each to be cut sloping, for an inch or more, and tongued. Tongueing consists in cutting a slit in the middle of the slope of the stock downward, and a corresponding slit in the scion upward ; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides, OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 29 if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then securely bound with bass matting, and covered with grafting clay or compo- sition. As soon as the scion and stock are completely united, the bass string may be removed. Sappie Grartine. The celebrated Mr. Knight practised this mode of grafting on very small stocks. The upper part of the stock is prepared in the form of a wedge, by two sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by slitting it upward, and paring out the middle part on each side to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal size, the adjustment may be made perfect; but if unequal, one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a string of bass matting, and covered with composition or clay; but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect union has taken place. Root Grartine. This operation is often performed on Grape vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual mode of cleft grafting. It is also performed on portions or pieces of root, where suitable stocks are scarce. Grartine By Approacu. The trees, or shrubs, to be grafted in this mode, must be growing very near to those which are to furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each tree, which are thus to be united, must be pared with a long sloping cut of several inches, nearly to the centre; and the parts of each tree thus prepared are to be brought together, and finally secured by a bandage of matting, so that the bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then be covered with clay or composition; and when a complete union has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. It may be here observed that, as young grafted trees in the nursery progress in growth, the lower side-limbs should be gradually shortened, but not suddenly close-pruned ; they are essential for a time to strengthen the trunks, and to the upright and perfect formation of the tree. 3* 30 FORSYIH’S COMPOSITION. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING COMPOSITION, GRAFTING CLAY, ETC.,, FOR USE ON FRUIT TREES. The British Parliament gave Mr. Forsyth a valuable pre- mium for the following important directions for making a composition for curing diseases, defects, and injuries in all kinds of fruit and forest trees, and the method of preparing the trees, and laying on the composition : Take one bushel of fresh cow-dung, half a bushel of lime rubbish of old buildings (that from the ceilings of rooms is preferable), half a bushel of wood ashes, and a sixteenth part of a bushel of pit or river sand; the three last articles are to be sifted fine before they are mixed; then work them well together with a spade, and afterward with a wooden beater, until the stuff is very smooth, like fine plaster used for ceilings of rooms. The composition being thus made, care must be taken to prepare the tree properly for its application, by cutting away all the dead, decayed, and injured part, till you come at the fresh sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood very smooth, and rounding off the edges of the bark with a draw- knife, or other instrument, perfectly smooth, which must be particularly attended to; then lay on the plaster about an eighth of an inch thick, all over the part where the wood or bark has been so cut away, finishing off the edges as thin as possible. Then take a quantity of dry powder of wood ashes mixed with a sixth part of the same quantity of the ashes of burnt bones ; put it into a tin box with holes in the top, and shake the powder on the surface of the plaster till the whole is covered with it, letting it remain for half an hour to absorb the moisture ; then apply more powder, rub- bing it on gently with the hand, and repeating the applica- tion of the powder till the whole plaster becomes a dry, smooth surface. WASH FOR THE STEMS OF FRUIT TREES, ETC. 31 If any of the composition be left for a future occasion, it should be kept in a tub or other vessel, and urine poured on it so as to cover the surface, otherwise the atmosphere will greatly hurt the efficacy of the application. When lime rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got, take pounded chalk or common lime, after having been slaked a month at least. As the growth of the trees will gradually effect the plas- ter, by raising up its edges next the bark, care should be taken, when that happens, to rub it over with the finger when occasion may require (which is best done when moistened by rain), that the plaster may be kept whole, to prevent the air and wet penetrating into the wound. As the best way of using the composition is found, by experience, to be in a liquid state, it must, therefore, be reduced to the consistence of a pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a sufficient quantity of urime and soapsuds, and laid on with a painter’s brush. The powder of wood ashes and burned bones is to be applied as before directed, patting it down with the hand. A Wash ror THE Stems or Fruit Trees. Take a peck of fresh cow-dung, half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of flour of sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix the whole together with as much urine and soapsuds in a boiling state as will form the ingredients into a thick paint. This composition may be applied to the stems of young standard trees when planted out in the orchard, to prevent their being injured by the depredations of reptiles and insects. A. Wash FoR THE STEMS AND Brancues oF Fruit TREEs. Take half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of flour of sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix the whole together with as much boiling water as will form the ingredients into a thick paint. This composition is recom- mended to be applied to the stems and limbs of Apple trees which are infested with the White .Wealy Insect, having pre- viously removed the moss and loose bark by scraping them 32 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. off with a strong knife, or some other instrument adapted to the purpose. In using the composition, it will be most efficacious if applied in a warm state, or something more than blood heat. On young trees, strong vinegar will effectually destroy this insect, and I have for many years, in my own nursery, used it for this purpose; but this would be too expensive to be applied when the trees are large. A solution of potash to wash the stems of the trees early in the spring, before the buds expand, will effectually destroy them. To make Grartine Composition. Take equal parts of rosin and beeswax, and a little tallow; melt these together and mix them; then pour the composition into cold water, and as it hardens, take it out and work it up with the hands until it attains a due consistence. It may be spread on brown paper, which being cut into strips of suitable size, is quickly applied, and in cool weather may be warmed by the breath, so as to become adhesive. Grarrine Cuay may be made in the following manner: Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free from litter, cow manure, and good stiff clay; add to this a portion of hair, and work it together in the same manner as masons mix their mortar. It should be well beaten and incorpo- rated several days before it is required to be used. ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. In the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and attention are necessary; for, to have trees that do not answer the expectations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment. As the young gardener may need such directions as are cal- culated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavour to CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 33 furnish them. Whatever species or varieties of fruit trees are wanted, choose those that are vigorous and straight, and of a healthy appearance. Whether they have been grafted or budded, be careful to select such as have been worked on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old, crooked, stunted stocks, seldom succeed well. Trees that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining bark; such as are mossy, or have a rough, wrinkled bark, or are the least affected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is discover- able in the young wood, and generally two or three inches above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot, Nectar- ine, Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the lower part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the ground, and only one graft or bud should be upon each stock, for when there are more, the tree cannot be brought to so handsome a form. In some of the following articles, it will be seen that several descriptions of trees may be transplanted with safety, even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or - five years’ growth, after having been headed down, that are healthy, and well furnished with fruit-bearing wood close up to the centre of the tree, can be obtained, they will do very well; but great care is requisite in taking up, removing, and planting such. Let the tree be taken up with as great a portion of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, split, or damage them; for want of attention to these points, trees often become diseased. Whenever (notwithstanding all due caution) any roots have been accidentally broken, split, or otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them be cut off; or if they cannot be well spared, let the damaged or bruised part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and a por- tion of the following composition be spread over the wound, in order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise injure the tree: To equal parts of soft soap and tar, add a little beeswax; let them be boiled together, and when cold 34 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. they may be used. The necessity of pruning-in and dress- ing mangled roots is more particularly required in trees of the stone fruit, such as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, &c.; for without the application of some remedy, they gum at the roots, which defect, if not counteracted, very materi- ally injures the upper part of the trees, which may become so affected as never to recover afterward; therefore, great care should be taken not to occasion such injury; and when accidents happen, all due caution and application are neces- sary to promote a healthy and vigorous growth. A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly corresponding to the branches; at least, it should have one strong root in a similar proportion to the bole of the tree, with a proper distribution of branching fibres. Healthy roots are always smooth and clear; their colour varies a lit- tle according to the kind of tree, but the older the roots are, the darker the colour is. After the tree is taken up, be careful, in conveying it to the place where it is to be planted, that the roots are not -chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed to a consid- erable distance, they should be well guarded by straw, or otherwise, in order to prevent injury. All damaged or bruised roots should be pruned as soon as the tree is taken up, but if it be necessary to prune away any sound, good roots, such pruning should be delayed until the time of planting. In pruning away roots, always let them be finished by a clear cut, and in a sloping direction ; the slope should be toward the under stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to lodge upon the part so cut. When trees are planted at an advanced season in the spring of the year, it will be neces- sary to prune the tops; and if trees are removed that have been trained three or four years, and are not properly sup- plied with young wood, they must be cut down either wholly or partially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In practising this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c., always prune so as to have a leading shoot close below the cut, as it is CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 35 yery rare they will push a shoot below, unless there be a lead. ‘This attention is not so particularly required in the Pear, &c., as such will generally push forth shoots, although no leading ones are left; but in all kinds, the younger the wood is, the more certain are shoots to be produced. If a tree that has been under training for one or two years, should only have one good strong leading shoot, and two or three weaker ones which do not proceed from it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten the strong one, from which a handsome head may afterward be formed. For farther directions as respects pruning or planting fruit trees, &c., the reader is referred to the preceding articles on these subjects; and as respects any species of fruit mm par- ticular, directions will be found under its distinct head. In order to assist the reader in making a judicious selection of fruit trees, I have furnished a short description of such species and varieties as are in great repute for every good quality. Previous to making this selection, I carefully perused ‘ Prince’s Pomulogical Manual,’ ‘ Kenrick’s Ameri- can Orchardist,’ ‘ Lindley’s Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden, and ‘ Manning’s Descriptive Catalogue of Fruits ;’ beside these important guides, I had the select catalogues of different nurserymen before me, and have chosen such only as have been most generally recommended. In doing this, I have had difficulties to contend with, of the nature of which, none but these who have duly considered the subject can form any idea. The facility with which seedling plants are raised, and the paternal fondness with which people are apt to regard their own seedlings, have occasioned hundreds of names to appear in the various catalogues, which tend not a little to swell the large and increasing list of fruits. In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to the same variety; consequently, some fruits appear in the different catalogues under all the varied names; and the patience and labour necessarily requisite for ascertaining 36 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. which are really distinct varieties, and which are most worthy of cultivation, are correspondingly great. To exemplify : Suppose from a catalogue of Pears the fol- lowing names should be selected by a person wishing to plant as many varieties in his orchard, namely, Brown Beurre, Beurre Gris, Beurre Rouge, Buerre Dore, Buerve d’ Anjou, Buerre d Or, Buerre @? Ambleuse, Buerre d? Ambotse, Poire @ Amboise, Isambert, Red Beurre, Golden Beurre, Beurre du Roi. Wuire Doyenne, Doyenne Blanc, Doyenne, Beurre Blanc, Bonne-ante, Saint Michael, Carlisle, Citron de Septem- bre, Kaiserbirne, Poire a court quene, Poire de Limon, Valen- cia, Potre de Neige, Poire de Seigneur, Poire Monsieur, White Beurre. Here is a list of twenty-nine kinds, as the pur- chaser supposes, but when the trees produce their fruit, he finds, to his great disappointment and mortification, that he has only two varieties, namely, the Brown Beurre and the White Doyenne. In making out the descriptive lists, I have generally adopted the names given in the catalogues of the most cele- brated nurserymen, as a heading; and have caused the synonymes, or names by which the same variety is known, or has been called, to be printed in italics ; thus, my lists of about four hundred varieties of the various species of fruit, will embrace what has been deemed by some as different varieties, perhaps to the number of nearly two thousand. In preparing the following articles, the object has been to furnish information which would entertain, as well as instruct the reader. Besides the authorities quoted, I have gleaned from those inexhaustible treasures to horticulturists, Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Plants, and that of Gardening; but on account of the brevity necessarily observed through- out this work, it has been found impracticable to give many entire extracts; suffice it to say, that the historical facts are generally collected from these sources. APPLE. ov APPLE. Pommier. Pyrus malus. Tue Apple being so closely connected with our wants and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the catalogue of our fruits. The Apple Orchard is, in truth, the vineyard of our country ; and the delicious beverage that can be obtained from some of the varieties-of this excellent fruit being cal- culated to. cheer the invalid, as well as to strengthen the healthy, entitles it to high consideration. It is one of our oldest and best fruits, and has become completely naturalized to our soil; none can be brought to so high a degree of per- fection with so little trouble; and of no other are there so many excellent varieties in general cultivation, calculated for almost every soil, situation, and climate, which our coun- try affords. The Apple tree is supposed by some to attain a great age: Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, that were a thousand years old, and were still highly prolific ; but Knight considers two hundred years as the ordinary duration of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab stock, and planted in a strong, tenacious soil. Speechly mentions a tree in an or- chard at Burtonjoice, near Nottingham, about sixty years old, with branches extending from seven to nine yards round the bole, which in some seasons produced upward of a hun- dred bushels of apples. The Romans had only twenty-two varieties in Pliny’s time. There are upward of fifteen hundred now cultivated in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, under name; the catalogue of the Linnzan Botanic Garden at Flushing contains about four hundred; and one of our en- terprising horticulturists, Mr. William Coxe, of Burlington, New Jersey, enumerated one hundred and thity-three kinds cultivated in the United States, some years ago. They are usually divided into dessert, baking, and cider fruits: the 38 APPLE. first, highly flavoured; the second, such as fall, or become mellow in baking or boiling; and the third, austere, and generally fruit of small size. Besides this division, Apples are classed as pippins or seedlings, pearmains or somewhat pear-shaped fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles or white-skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, and some are denominated burknots. The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many sorts by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is by grafting on seedling stocks of two or three years growth, and for dwarfing, on stocks of the Quince or Paradise Apple. All the principal varieties are cultivated as standards in the orchard, and should be planted from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees, in order that the sun and air may have their due influence in maturing the fruit. Many of the dwarf kinds may be introduced into the Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf standards. An Apple Orchard may be planted at any time after the trees are two years old from the graft; and as trees from young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any time within that period. Old Apple trees may be grafted with superior varieties by being headed down to standard height: most commonly, in very old subjects, the branches only are cut within a foot or two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or cleft manner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the mode of bearing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, or short robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, which spring from the younger branches of two or more years’ growth, appearing at first at the extremity, and ex- tending gradually to the side: the same bearing branches and fruit spurs comtinue many years fruitful. Prunine.—As, from the mode of bearing, Apple trees do not admit of shortening the general bearers, it should only DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 39 be practised in extraordinary cases. If trees have not the most desirable form when three or four years old, they should be judiciously pruned to promote regular spreading branches. In annual pruning, the main branches should not be cut, unless in cases of decay; but all superfluous cross branches aud dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers eradi- cated. LEspaliers require a summer and winter pruning. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. SUMMER FRUIT. AMERICAN SummeR PEARMAIN, Early Summer Pearmain. This ap- ple is of medium size and oblong form; its colour bright red on the sunny side, and on the opposite side yellow, streaked or blotched with red; the flesh is very juicy, tender, fine flavoured, and excellent. It ripens early in August, and is good either for the dessert or for cooking. Tree a good bearer. Benont. Fruit of medium size, form round and regular; the flesh yel- low, high flavoured, and excellent; it ripens in July and August. “The tree bears well,’’ says Mr. Manning, ‘“‘and should be found in every good collection.” Earty Boucn, Sweet Bough. The size of this fruit varies from me- dium to large; its colour pale yellow ; its form oblong; its skin smooth ; flesh tender, juicy, sweet, and excellent. Ripens early in August. Earry Crorron, or Irish Peach Apple. An Irish apple, of the middle size and flattish shape; of an olive green colour, much variegated with red; has a rich saccharine flavour ; is much esteemed for the dessert, and is excellent also as a sauce apple. Ripens in August. The tree grows well, and is not apt to canker. Earty Harvest, Prince’s Yellow Harvest, Pomme @ete, July Pippin. A very early apple, of medium size; bright straw colour; flesh white and tender; juice rich, lively, and very fine. The tree bears young, and makes a fine garden espalier; ripening its fruit in July and August. Earty Rep Juneatinc, Red Margaret, Early Striped Juneating, Strawberry, Eve Apple of the Irish. Fruit below the middle size; skin greenish yellow, richly and closely streaked with deep red; flesh white, juicy, breaking, sub-acid, very rich and agreeable. Ripens early in August. PorTerR. This variety, says Mr. Manning, originated on the farm of the Rev. Samuel Porter, of Sherburne, Massachusetts. The fruit is large, ot oblong shape; the skin a bright yellow, with a red biush; the flesh fine, sprightly, and agreeable. Ripens in September and October. Rep Astracan. This beautiful apple is of medium size, and roundish ; the skin is dark red, covered with thick bloom like a plum; the flesh is white, tender, and somewhat acid. At perfection early in August. 40 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. RED QuARENDON, Devonshire Quarenden. Sack Apple. A much es- teemed Devonshire apple; of medium size; skin of a uniform deep rich crimson, with numerous green dots intermixed ; flesh of a brisk, pleasant, and peculiar flavour. A very desirable dessert apple: from August to No- vember; tree very productive. SummeER Pippin, Pie Apple. This fruit, in size and shape, resembles the Fall Pippin ; it differs in having a little more red on the sunny side, and in arriving at maturity about a fortnight earlier. It is a very popular apple in New Jersey. SumMMER QUEEN. A large oblong apple, striped with red on a yellow ground; the flesh is yellow, very high flavoured, and excellent. The tree is of vigorous growth, says Mr. Manning, a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in August. SummMER Rose, Harvest Apple. A very beaptiful and excellent fruit, of moderate size and roundish form; the skin is yellow, striped and mottled with red; the flesh is sweet, juicy, and fine: in July and August; treea great bearer. Wiriiams’s Kary, Williams’s Favourite Red. This apple originated in Roxbury, Mass.; it is of medium size; oblong form ; the skin a bright and deep red; the flavour pleasant and agreeable. The tree is a great bearer, and its fruit commands a good price in the Boston markets: in Au- gust and September. AUTUMN FRUIT. ALEXANDER, Emperor Alexander, Aporta. Fruit very large, somewhat cordate, smallest at the crown; of a greenish yellow colour, striped or mar- bled with red; pulp tender, sweet, rich, and aromatic: ripens in October, and lasts till Christmas. AMERICAN NonparREtt, Doctor Apple. A beautiful apple of medium size and roundish form; its colour yellow, streaked and stained with red on the sunny side; flesh firm, juicy, and agreeable. A very fine market apple in October and November. ‘Tree a great bearer. Boxrorp. A very superior variety, says Mr. Manning; which was first cultivated at Boxford, Massachusetts. Fruit roundish, of medium size; skin striped with red and yellow ; the flesh, yellow, rich, and good. The tree is a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in October. CUMBERLAND Spice. A fine dessert fruit, large, rather oblong; of a pale yellow colour, clouded near the base; the flesh white, tender, and of fine flavour. It ripens in autumn, and will keep till February. DownTon Pippin, Elfon Golden Pippin, Knight’s Golden Pippin. The Downton Golden Pippin is a most abundant bearer, and the fruit extreme- ly well adapted for market; it is rather larger than the common Golden Pippin ; skin nearly smooth; yellow, sprinkled with numerous specks; flesh yellowish, crisp, with a brisk, rich, sub-acid juice; specific gravity 10.79. Ripe in October and November, and will keep good till Christmas. Drap vD’OR or France, Cloth of Gold. This apple is very large and handsome ; its form globular; its colour a fine yellow, with dark specks; its flesh white, firm, and rich flavoured. The tree bears well, and should be fonnd in every good collection. Fruit in perfection from September to November. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 41 Fart Harvey. This is a large and handsome fruit, the shape flat, the skin light yellow, with a bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, firm, rich, and high flavoured. Mr. Manning considered it “the finest Fall and Karly Winter variety; a good bearer, and deserving extensive cultivation.” Fatt Preprn, Cobbett’s Fall Pippin, Reinnete Blanche D’ Espagne, D’ Espagne, De Rateaw, Concombre Ancien, White Spanish Reinette, Ca- muesar. This extremely valuable variety stands in the first class of au- tumn fruits, and is very large; its form is roundish oblong ; skin smooth, yellowish green, tinged with orange; flesh yellowish, crisp, and tender, with avery rich, sugary juice. It ripens in October, and keeps well as a fall apple. Fameruse, Pomme de Neige. A Canadian apple of great beauty ; in size medium; skin light green, stained with bright red; flesh white, very ten- der; juice saccharine, with a musky perfume: ripe in October, and will keep good till Christmas. Tree hardy and productive. Gorpen Russet, Aromatic Russef. A dessert apple, of medium size, and of a pale copper-coloured russet; in great tepute for its rich saccharine, aromatic, and slightly musky flavour. The tree is hardy and very produc- tive: in October and November. GRAVENSTEIN. Fruit rather large and compressed; of a yellowish green colour, striped with red; flesh crisp, and high flavoured: ripens in October, and lasts till April. This variety originated in Germany, and is considered the best dessert apple in that country. Kenrici’s Rep Autumn. A native apple of largish dimensions, raised by John Kenrick, Esq., of Newton, Massachusetts ; colour pale green in the shade, but bright red next the sun, and streaked with deeper red; the flesh white, stained more or less with red; tender, juicy, and rich, with an agreeable sub-acid flavour: ripe in October. Kinuam Hirt. This apple, one of the most saleable varieties in Sa- lem markets, originated on the farm of Dr. Kilham, in Wenham, Essex county, Massachusetts; the size is above medium; form a little oblong; the skin yellow, striped with red; the flesh is yellow and high flavoured : from September to November. Monmouts Pippin. This variety originated in Monmouth county, New Jersey. It is above medium size, of greenish colour, striped with red; flesh firm, and of pleasant flavour. It is considered one of the most saleable and productive varieties of the season ; and will keep good till after Christ- mas. ORANGE SweExErTine, Yellow Sweeting, Golden Sweeting. This variety is much cultivated near Hartford, Connecticut, for the Boston, Providence, and Philadelphia markets ; the fruit is rather large, flattened at its base and summit; the colour yellow, or orange; flesh very sweet and excellent: from September to December. Rep Incesrric. A first-rate dessert apple, of medium size, and bright yellow colour, deeply tinged with red ; raised by Mr. Knight, President of the London Horticultural Society. The tree bears well in America, and ripens its fruit in October. which is very rich, juicy, high flavoured, and grateful to the palate. Rep anp GREEN Sweerina, Prince’s Large Red and Green Sweeting. The fruit is of oblong shape; colour green, striped with red; the pulp is very sweet, tender, and of delicious flavour: from September to November. * 42 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. Ssex No Fartuer, Rambo, or Romanite. This apple is much culti- vated in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Its form is flat, resembling the Vandervere in appearance, but is a more juicy fruit; the skin pale yellow, streaked with red; flesh tender and sprightly during the autumn months. Stroat, Sfraat. A fine autumn apple, introduced by the late Jesse Buel, Esq., of Albany; in size medium; form rather oblong; skin yellow- ish green ; flesh yellow and tender ; juice rich and lively: in use from Sep- tember to December. YE LiLow IncEsrric. A beautiful apple, raised by Mr. Knight, President of the London Horticultural Society. The size is small, form round and regular; the colour of the skin golden yellow, with some black spots; the flesh yellow, firm, and delicate. The tree is an abundant bearer, and ripens its fruit in October. The late Judge Buel considered this variety as likely te rival the Lady apple as a fashionable fruit. Yorx Russetine. A very large russety apple, well known about Bos- ton. Its form is rather oblong; its flesh pleasant and agreeably acid; an excellent apple: from October to December. WINTER FRUIT. 7Esorus Spitzensure. A beautiful apple ; large and oval; of red co- lour, covered with numerous white specks; the flesh is yellowish; slightly acid, and of the finest flavour: ripens in October, and continues good till February. Barnpwin. No apple in the Boston markets is more popular than this ; it is rather above medium size; its form round; its colour bright red, streaked with yellow ; its flesh is juicy, rich, saccharine, with a most agree- able acid flavour. The tree bears fruit abundantly, which ripens in Novem- ber, and keeps till February or March. BARCELONA PEARMAIN, Speckled Golden Reinette, Reinetie Rouge, Reinette Rowsse, Reinette des Carmes, Glace Rowge, Kleiner Casseler Re- inette. This variety is said to be a very productive and excellent dessert apple; fruit of medium size; oval, not angular; colour brownish yellow in the shade, deep red next the sun; flesh firm, yellowish, with a rich aro- matic agreeable acid: from November till February. BEAUTY OF THE West. A large, oblate, beautiful fruit, of yellow and red colour; its flesh juicy, rich. saccharine, and firm. A good marketable apple from November until March. Bett Frower. A very large and beautiful apple ; its colour bright yel- Jow, with an occasional blush on the sunny side; its form oblong; the flesh tender, juicy, rich, and finely flavoured, and is alike excellent for the dessert and for cooking. It ripens early in November, and will keep all the win- ter. Itis a valuable market fruit. BLENBEIM Preptn, Woodstock Pippin, Blenheim Orange. Fruit large, roundish, of a yellowish colour, tinged with red next the sun; pulp sweet and high flavoured: ripe in November, and keeps till March; a very supe- rior dessert apple. Brive Pearmain . This variety is well known about Boston as a large apple, of red colour, covered with a tense blue bloom, and of a delicious flavour ; good as a dessert or for cooking: from October to January. The tree grows strong, and is very productive. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 43 Court PEnbu, Capendu, Court Pendu Plut, Gurnon’s Apple. An es- timable dessert apple, of medium size ; in shape round, depressed ; the co- Jour yellow, a good deal covered with full red; it is of a high saccharine flavour and of close consistence ; the fruit keeps till February or March. The tree grows upright, and bears well. DanvERs WinTER SwEET, Epses Sweet, Danvers Sweeling. This va- riety originated at Danvers, near Salem, Massachusetts; fruit of medium size ; a little oblong; skin yellow, slightly tinged with red ; ils flesh sweet and excellent cooked, or as a dessert: from November to April. The tree is a great bearer, and of rapid growth. Domink, Domini. A first rate winter apple, of medium size and green- ish yellow colour, clouded with brown blotches; the flesh is juicy, tender, and excellent. Tree a great bearer. Go.prn Batu, Golden Apple. A beautiful and superior fruit from the State of Maine; of large size and golden yellow colour ; flesh firm; juice very tich, sweet, aromatic, with a good proportion of acid. It will keep good from November to April. Go.pEen Harvey, Brandy Apple. A dessert apple, not larger than the Golden Pippin; colour light yellow, with a flush of red, and embroidered with aroughish russet. It is called Brandy Apple from the superior spe- cifie strength of its juice, being 10.85; it is of remarkably close texture, very rich in flavour, and will keep till April or May. e GREEN SWEET, Green Sweeting, Green Winter Sweet. This apple is much cultivated in Massachusetts. It is of medium size; the skin dull green, approaching to yellow; the flesh very sweet and delicious. It pos- sesses the valuable property of retaining its soundness till May or June. Hussarpston NonesucH. A large apple of globular form; red and yellow colour, streaked and blotched; the flesh is juicy and of excellent flavour: from December to March. The tree is of vigorous growth, a great bearer, and worthy of extensive cultivation. JonaTHAN, King Philip, New Spitzenburgh, Philip Rick. A winter fruit very generally admired in the State of New York. It is of medium size; the skin of pale yellow and bright red colour, occasionally tinged with purple; flesh tender, juice abundant, and highly flavoured. This fruit will keep till May. Lapy Aprie, Pomme d’ Api. Fruit small, flat; of pale yellow colour, tinged with a deep red on the side; flesh crisp, sprightly, and pleasant: ripens in November, and continues till April. It is a very saleable fruit on account of its great beauty. Lapirs’ SwEETING, Winter Sweeting. This apple is above medium size; conical; skin yellow, streaked, and mottled with red; flesh juicy, sweet, and high flavoured : from November to May. Lemon Pirrin. An old and much esteemed dessert apple; of medium size and oval shape, much like a lemon both in form and colour, having a firm texture, brisk flavour, and plenty of acid: from October to March. Tree handsome, and a great bearer. Marpen’s Briusn, Hawthornden. Fruit large, roundish; skin, pale greenish yellow, tinged with blush; the pulp is white, tender, juicy, and acid ; and the fruit is good for the table as well as for all kitchen purposes: in Septemher and October. The tree is hardy and prolific. MacaRug, Charles Apple, Mela Carlu, Pomme Finale. A far-famed 44 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. fruit. In the climate of Italy, this is supposed to be the best apple in the world. Itis cultivated extensively in the territories of Genoa, as an article of export and commerce to Nice, Barcelona, Cadiz, and Marseilles. The fruit is rather large, its form inclining to globular. Its beautiful waxen skin is a little marbled with a very faint green near the eye; its colour in the shade is a pale yellow, tinged with flaming crimson next the sun ; the flesh is white, tender, delicate, sweet, with the fragrant perfume of roses. It ripens in September, and will keep till spring. Mewacerr. Mr. Manning pronounced this to be the largest apple he had seen; the form is flat like a large English turnip; the skin of a light yellow; the flesh pleasant. but more adapted to the kitchen than the des- sert: from October to February. It bears well trained as a dwarf. Minister. A native apple of large size, and oblong shape; the skin a light greenish yellow, striped with bright red ; fesh yellow, light, high fla- voured, and excellent. Mr. Manning considered this as one of the finest fruits that New England ever produced. It ripens in November, and will keep till after Christmas. Monstrovs Piprin, Baltimore, Gloria Mundi, Ox Apple. Fruit of enor- mous size, often weighing twenty-five ounces or more; of a pale yellowish green and blush colour, with white spots; and of a sprightly flavour; ex cellent for cooking : ripens in October, and continues fit for use till January Mureny. This apple in appearance resembles the Blue Pearmain; the shape is more oblong, the size not so large; the skin pale red, streaked or blotched with darker red, and covered with blue bloom ; flesh white, tender, and good. Raised trom seed by Mr. Murphy, and introduced to notice by Mr. Manning. Newtown Pippin, American Newtown Pippin, Yellow Newtown Pip- pin. This variety, when perfectly matured, is considered by some the finest apple in our country; its skin is green, changing to an olive yellow at ma- turity, having a thin russet covering the greatest part of the base ; flesh pale yellow and firm ; juice saccharine, and possessing a rich and highly aromatic flavour: from December to April. Newtown Spirzensure, Matchless. A beautiful apple of medium size; skin streaked, and tinged with red and yellow; flesh yellow, rich, and high- ly flavoured: from October till February. Norrotk BEeauFin. Fruit middling size, flattish, of a deep red and pale green colour; the flesh is firm and savoury ; the tree hardy, upright, and a good bearer; fruit excellent for use in the kitchen, and highly esteemed for the dessert. It ripens in November, and is frequently to be obtained in England in July following. OrrLey Pippin, Ortley Apple, Vandyne, Woolman’s Long of Prince. A fruit very much resembling the Yellow Newtown Pippin, but a little more oval; skin olive yellow at maturity, partially covered with pink and rus- set ; flesh yellow, crisp, and breaking; very juicy, with the same pine-apple flavour which distinguishes the Newtown Pippin: good from November to April. Pennocx’s Rep WintER, Felican. Fruit very large and compressed ; of deep red colour, streaked with yellow; flesh tender, juicy, and of a sweet and pleasant flavour: ripens in November, and will keep good tilt 4. Tt is a evry popular apple in the Philadelphia markets. ‘kin Sweet, Ramsdel’s Red Pumpkin Sweet. A beautiful fruit, DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 45 over medium size, round, inclined to oblong; of a dark red colour, covered with dense blue bloom; fiesh tender, rich, and sweet. Itripens in Novem- ber, and keeps till January. The trees bear prodigious crops. Ruope Iscanp GreENING. Fruit large and depressed; skin at ma- turity greenish yellow; flesh slightly acid, and of the finest flavour: ripens in November, and continues till April. A most estimable apple for cooking as well as for the dessert. Rresrone Pippin, Formosa Pippin, Traver’s Apple, Glory of York. Fruit of medium size, roundish, and partially depressed ; of a pale yellow colour, tinged with red ; pulp slightly acid, and of fine flavour: ripens in November, and continues till April. It is one of the most popular dessert apples in England. Roxsury Russet, Boston Russet, Pineapple Russet. This variety is cultivated extensively in Massachusetts for the Boston markets, and for ex- portation. The fruit is of medium size; of a fine yellow russet colour, mixed with dull red; flesh white, juicy, rich, sub-acid, and excellent; for use in winter, and will keep till June. SwaaR AppLe. A much celebrated winter table fruit in some parts of New York and New Jersey; it is a large apple of uncommon flavour and richness; skin of a greenish yellow, tinged with blush. The tree is very productive, and highly deserving cultivation in every collection of fine fruit. Good till March. Vanpevers. An apple of medium size, the form flat; skin pale red, with rough yellowish blotches; flesh yellow and tender; juice plentiful, rich, and sprightly: from October till January. WestERN Russet, Puinam’s Russet. This variety is extensively cul- tivated in Muskingum county, Ohio, where it is esteemed above all others of their fine winter varieties. It is above the middle size, of a greenish yellow colour, covered with russety blotches, and will keep all the winter. Wuire WintTeR CatviLte, Calville Blanche d’Hiver, Bonnet Carre. This fruit is large ; its colour at maturity bright yellow, tinged with red ; its form rather flat; flesh white, tender, and pleasant : from November to March. Tree an abundant bearer. Wine Appr, Hay’s Winter, Large Winter Red, Fine Winter. A va- riety highly esteemed in the Philadelphia markets; the fruit is large; of bright red colour, striped with yellow, the stalk end russety ; its flesh is rich, aromatic, and pleasant: from October to February, The tree bears young and abundantly- CIDER FRUIT, CamprrELp, on NEWARK SwEEtiIne. This apple is next in reputation, as a cider fruit, to the Harrison, and is often mixed with that apple in equal proportions when ground ; it is of the middle size, skin smooth, of red and yellow colour 5 the flesh is white, firm, sweet, and rich. j GRANNIWINELE. Fruit of moderate size, rather oblong ; the skin a dark red, somewhat rough; flesh yellow, sweet, and rich. It is commonly mixed with the Harrison for making cider of a superior quality: ripe in November. Hewr’s Vircinia Cras. From this fruit is obtained the celebrated Crab Cider, it is of small size, nearly round; skin of a dull red, streaked 46 APRICOT. with greenish yellow; the flesh is fibrous and astringent; juice acid and austere. Harrison, Harrison's Newark. This fruit is much celebrated in New Jersey as a cider apple; it is somewhat ovate, below the middle size; the skin is yellow, with black spots; flesh yellow, firm, rich, and sprightly. Ten bushels will make a barrel of exquisite cider, from which may be taken fourteen quarts of distilled spirits. APRICOT. Asricotier. Prunus Armeniaca. Tue fruit of the Apricot is next in esteem to the Peach, and as it ripens three or four weeks earlier, should be more generally cultivated. The flowers appear in April, on the shoots of the preceding year, and on spurs of two or more years’ growth, and the fruit ripens in July and August. The London Horticultural Society’s catalogue describes fifty-four sorts, and Messrs. Prince have eighteen in their catalogue ; besides these, is the Peach Apricot, a large fruit, supposed to be a hybrid between a Peach and an Apricot. Our enterprising fellow citizen, Mr. William Shaw, has succeeded for many years in maturing large quantities of this excellent fruit on standards ; but they ripen best when trained against close fences. In England some of the varieties are cultivated as standards and espaliers; but they seldom bear much fruit under ten or twelve years, and then the fruit is abundant and of the finest flavour. They are commonly cul- tivated as wall trees, in an east or west aspect; for if they are planted to face the south, the great heat causes them to be mealy before they are eatable. New varieties are pro- cured from seed, as in the Peach, and approved sorts are perpetuated by budding on plum stocks, &c. The varieties of the Apricot, in general, bear chiefly upon the young shoots of last year, and casually upon small spurs rising on the two or three years’ old fruit branches. The Moor Park bears chiefly on the last year’s shoots, and on APRICOT. 47 close spurs formed on the two year old wood. The bearing shoots emit the blossom buds immediately from the eyes along the sides, and the buds have a round and swelling ap- pearance. Apricot trees may be planted at any time after the head is formed : some head them down in the nursery bed, and remove them to their destined places when five or six years old. Standards will require only occasional pruning, to regulate such branches as may be too numerous, too extended, or cross formed, and to remove any casually unfruitful parts and dead wood; but the regular branches, forming the head of the tree, should not be shortened unless necessary. The general culture of the wall Apricots comprehends a summer and winter course of regulation, by pruning and training. The fan method is generally adopted, but some prefer training horizontally. With young trees some con- trive to fill the wall by heading down twice a year. The winter, or early spring management, comprehends a general regulation both of the last year’s shoots and the older branches. A general supply of the most regularly situated young shoots must be every where retained, for suc- cessional bearers the ensuing year. Cut out such branches as are not furnished with competent supplies of young wood, or with fruit spurs, to make room for training the most pro- mising branches retained. Generally, observe in this pruning to retain one leading shoot at the end of each branch; either a naturally placed terminal, or one formed by cutting (where a vacancy is to be furnished) into a proper leader. Let the shoots retained for bearers be moderately shortened ; reduce strong shoots in the least proportion—cutting off one fourth or less of their length; from weak shoots take away a third, and sometimes a half. This shortening will conduce to the production of a good supply of lateral shoots the ensuing summer, from the lower and middle placed eyes; whereas without it, the new shoots would proceed mustly from the 48 APRICOTS. top, and leave the under part of the ptincipal branches naked, and the lower and middle parts of the tree unfurnished with proper supplies of bearing wood. Never prune below all the blossom buds, except to provide wood, in which case cut nearer to the origin of the branch. As, mm these trees, small fruit spurs, an inch or two long, often appear on some of the two or three years’ branches furnished with blossom buds, these spurs should generally be retained for bearing. As each tree is pruned, lay in the branches and shoots from three to six inches distance, and nail them straight or close to the fence or wall. The summer pruning is principally to regulate the young shoots of the same year. In the first place, take off close all the irregular foremost shoots, taking care to retain a com- petent supply of close side shoots, with a good leader to each parent branch. Continue these mostly at full length all the summer, regularly trained in, to procure a sufficiency to choose from in the general winter pruning, for new bearers the next year. If the summer regulation commences early, while the shoots are quite ycung, and, as it were, herbaceous, those improper to retain may be detached with the finger and thumb; but when of firmer growth, they must be removed with the knife. If any very strong shoots rise in any part where the wood is deficient, they may be topped in June, which will cause them to produce several laterals the same year, eligible for training in, to supply the vacancy. Sometimes the fruit is much too numerous, if not destroyed by insects, often growing in clusters; in which case thin them while in a young, green state, leaving the most pro- minent fruit singly, at three or four inches distance, or from about two to six on the respective shoots, according to their strength. The Apricots so thinned off, and the first princi- pal green fruit, are very fine for tarts. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APRICOTS. 49 SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APRICOTS. Brepa, Abricot de Hollande, Amande Aveline, Royal Persian. Fruit medium size, of a round form, and deep yellow colour; the pulp is soft and juicy; the tree is a great bearer, and the fruit, which ripens early in August, is in great esteem. Brussers. Highly esteemed for its productiveness; fruit medium size, inclining to an oval form; of a yellow colour, and next the sun covered with numerous dark spots; the flesh is of a greenish yellow colour, of a brisk flavour, and not liable to become mealy: ripens in August. BirotcuEp Leavep Roman, Blotch Leaved Turkey, Variegated Turkey, Abricot Macule of the French. Fruit middle size, in form slightly com- pressed, inclining to oval; skin dull straw colour, with orange or red spots $ flesh pale straw colour, soft, dry, rather mealy : kernel rather bitter. A very hardy and productive variety ; ripe towards the end of July. Earty ORANGE, Royal George, Royal Orange. The fruit of amedium size; of a deep yellow colour, spotted with red or dark purple next the sun; flesh deep orange, succulent, and well flavoured; not perfectly a free stone: ripens early in August. Hemsxrrxe. Fruit middle sized, roundish, slightly compressed; of a bright yellow colour; flesh tender, juicy, with a particularly rich, delicate flavour, resembling that of the Green Gage Plum: ripe in July. Larce Earty Apricot, Abricot Gros Precoce, Abricot de St. Jean, Abricot de St. Jean rouge, Abricot gros @ Alexandrie. Fruit somewhat oblong; skin downy, orange, spotted with red; flesh orange, juicy, and rich, parting from the stone. This is the earliest of all apricots; in France it has ripened by midsummer day, whence its name of A. de St. Jean. Moorpark, Anson’s, Temple’s, Dunmore’s Breda. The tree is of vigo- rous growth, and extraordinarily productive ; the fruit is very large; of a bright gold colour, or orange, with dark spots next the sun ; flesh orange colour. melting, and excellent : ripens early in September. Muscu, Musch. A fine new variety from Persia; in shape round; ofa deep yellow colour, and remarkable for the transparency of its pulp, through which the stone is visible; the flesh is very fine and agreeable: ripens in July. ? Pracu Apricot, Abricot Peche, Abricot de Nancy, Imperial Ansons. This is a first-rate fruit; form variable, generally flattened ; skin slightly downy ; fawn colour next the sun, tinged with reddish spots or points ; pulp yellow, melting, juice abundant, high flavoured, and excellent : ripens early in August. Puree. Alexandrian Abricot, Abricot Angowmois, Abricot Violet, Black Apricot. A small, globular, downy fruit, a little oblong; of a pale red co- lour, becoming deep red or purple next the sun ; flesh pale red, but orange next the stone; a little acid, but good: ripens in August. Rep Mascuttne, Abricot Precoce, Abricot Hatif Musque, Early Mascu- line. This is an old and very early variety; the fruit of which is small, of a roundish form, and greenish red colour; the pulp is tender; the tree a good bearer, and the fruit esteemed for its earliness and tart taste ; ripens in July. 5 60 ALMOND. Royat, Abricot Royale. This fruit is next in size to the Moorpark ; rather oval, compressed; of dull yellow colour, slightly red; flesh pale orange, firm, juicy, sweet, and high flavoured, with a slight acid: ripens early in August. Turkey, Large Turkey. A superior apricot; fruit of a medium size; deep yellow colour, with red blotches next the sun; form globular; flesh firm, juicy, rich, and excellent: ripe in July and August. Wuite Apricot, Whife Masculine, Abricot Blanc. Fruit, in size and figure, similar to the Red Masculine. Skin nearly white; flesh white, very delicate ; juice sweet, with an agreeable peach-lixe flavour. Ripe in July. ALMOND. Amanpier. Amygdalus. AutHoucs Almonds are not much cultivated in this part of our country, they are entitled to notice. The species are fruit trees, or ornamental trees and shrubs, both much es- teemed for the gay colour and early appearance of their flowers; these vary in their colour from the fine blush of the apple blossom to a snowy whiteness. The chief obvious distinction is in the fruit, which is flatter, with a coriaceous covering, instead of the rich pulp of the Peach and Necta- rine, opening spontaneously when the kernel is ripe. It is a native of Barbary, China, and most eastern countries. There are twelve sorts described in the catalogue of the Linnean Botanic Garden at Flushing; some of which are represented as new varieties from France and Italy, where they are cultivated extensively for their fruit. In France, they have above a dozen species or varieties, besides a hybrid, called the Almond Peach. The common and bitter Almond are only to be distinguished by the taste of the kernels of their fruit, which is the only part used. The tender-shelled is in the greatest esteem, and next, the Sweet, and Jordan. The bitter cuticle or skin of Almonds is taken off by immersion in boiling water. The sweet Almond and other varieties are used as a des- sert in a green or imperfectly ripe, and also in a ripe or CHERRY. 51 dried state. They are much used in cookery, confectionary, perfumery, and medicine. The Almond is propagated by seed for varieties, or for stocks; and by budding on its own, or on Plum stocks, for continuing varieties. The Almond tree bears chiefly on the young wood of the previous year, and in part upon small spurs or minor branches; it is therefore pruned like the Apricot and Peach, and its culture in other respects is the same. CHERRY. Crrister. Prunus cerasus. Tue Cherry, of the cultivated varieties, is said to have been first introduced into Italy in the year 73, from a town in Pontus, in Asia, called Cerasus, whence its specific name; and it was introduced into Britain one hundred and twenty years afterward. The Romans had eight species in Pliny’s time, red, black, tender-fleshed, hard-fleshed, small bitter-flavoured, and heart- shaped. There are now upward of two hundred in cultiva- tion. The French divide their Cherries into griottes, or tender-fleshed ; bigarreau, or heart-shaped; and guignes, or small fruit. The fruit of many varieties is somewhat heart- shaped, whence they are called ox-heart, white-heart, black- heart, &c.; why some sorts are called dukes, is not so ob- vious. The morello cherry is very different from the other varieties, bearing almost exclusively from the preceding year’s wood, and the pulp of the fruit having the consistence and flavour of the fungi called morel, whence the name. The Chinese Cherry is valuable on account of its bearing an excellent fruit, and ripening it in forcing-houses. Cherries are grafted or budded on seedlings from Cherry stones, and from seedlings of the red and black mazzard. For dwarfing they are worked on the morello, or perfumed 52 CHERRY. Cherry; the latter is preferred in Holland. In this country, the budding system is more frequently practised on the va- rious species of stone fruit than grafting. Cherry trees, in general, produce the fruit upon small spurs or studs, from half an inch to two inches in length, which proceed from the sides and ends of the two year, three year, and older branches; and as new spurs continue shooting from the extreme parts, il is a maxim in pruning both standards and espaliers, not to shorten the bearing branches when there is room for their regular extension. The Morello is in some degree an exception, as it bears principally on the shoots of the preceding year, the fruit proceeding immediately from the eyes of shoots; and bears but casually, and in a small degree, on close spurs formed on the two-year-old wood, and scarcely ever on wood of the third year; therefore, in pruning, leave a supply of young shoots on all the branches from the origin to the extremity of the tree, for next year’s bearers. All kinds of Cherry trees, except the Morello, are apt to grow very tall; to remedy this, and to enable them to form handsome heads, the leading shoot should be cut off when of about three years’ growth from the bud; after which give g, to reform or remove any casual oOo? irregularity from cross-placed or very crowded branches, only occasional prunin and take away all cankery and decayed wood. Dwarf Cherry trees may be introduced into the Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, &c. When Morellos are planted in an orchard, they may be placed from fifteen to twenty feet apart; trees of the duke kind may be planted from twenty-five to thirty feet apart; and the heart-shaped, in general, will require to be from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any spreading trees. Cherry trees may be removed the first year after the bud is established ; but they will bear removal at any time before they come into bearing, which is about the fifth year. The gum which exudes from Cherry trees is equal to DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 53 Gum Arabic; and Hasselquist relates, ‘‘ that more than one hundred men, during a siege, were kept alive for nearly two months, without any other sustenance than a little of this gum taken sometimes into the mouth, and suffered gradually to dissolve.” The wood is hard and tough, and used by the turner and cabinet maker. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. DUKE AND ROUND FRUIT. AmBREE DE Cuorsy, Belle de Choisy of Downing. Cerise Doucette, Cerisé de la Palembre of the French gardens. A middle size roundish fruit, high- ly deserving of cultivation. Skin transparent, red, mottled with amber 5 flesh amber coloured, tender, and sweet. It bears well as a standard, and ripens its fruit in June. Anrcupure, Royal Duke, Griotte de Portugal, Portugal Duke. A large globular-formed red cherry ; like the May Duke, it grows in clusters, but the tree grows more vigorously than that variety ; and yields an abundance of fruit, which hangs a long time on the tree improving in flavour, in July. BELLE ET Macnrriqve. A fine round cherry, much esteemed in Mas- sachusetts. The tree is vigorous and productive; the fruit truly magnifi- cent; its colour red, mottled with white spots, and abounding in acid; valu- able from its late maturity, in July. Carnarzron, Cerise Nowvelle d’ Angleterre, and Cerise de Portugal, of Downing. Late Spanish, Griotte d@ Espagne, and Griotte de Villenes, of Prince. Fruit round, of a pale red colour; flesh firm, with a very good flavoured juice; makes excellent preserves, and is good for the table in July. Downer’s Late RED, Downer’s Favourite. A large round cherry, de- serving a place in every garden, raised by S. Downer, Esq., of Dorchester, Massachusetts; colour light red ; flesh firm and of a fine sprightly flavour ; ripening after most other superior varieties are gone, on which account this variety is highly prized in the markets. Kentisn, Early Kentish, Early Richmond, Virginian May, Long Stem Montmorency, Montmorency a longue queue. Mr. Prince says that other varieties are sold erroneously under the above names. The fruit of this variety is round; skin red; flesh sprightly acid; juice abundant; excellent for the table and kitchen. It will hang long on the tree, in favourable wea- ther, in June and July. Late Duxe, Cerise Anglaise tardive, Unique nouvelle. Fruit large, above the size of a May Duke; obtuse heart shaped, rather flat; skin a shining dark red; flesh amber coloured, tender, juicy, and high flavoured. Tree a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in July. May Duxz, Early Duke, and Cerise d’ Angleterre, of Downing. Hol- 54 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. man’s Duke, June Duke, Griotte de Portugal, and Royule native, of Prince. Fruit of medium size, roundish, growing in clusters; the skin, when fully ripe, very dark red; the flesh is soft and juicy, with a very pleasant acid. This excellent variety ripens about the middle of June. Moretxo, English Morello, Milan, Cerise du nord, Griotte du nord. Fruit of medium size, round; of a dark red colour, nearly black at matu- rity ; flesh deep red, tender, juicy, and blended with an agreeable acid; ripe in July, and hangs some time on the tree. ‘This variety is excellent for preserves, and for Brandy. PLumstone More tio. A tree of moderate size, of the Duke or Kent- ish species; avery large, dark, round cherry, nearly black; of a rich acid flavour. The stone is very large, and resembles that of a plum; a native of Virginia, introduced by William Prince, of the Linnen Botanic Garden, Flushing. WatrErtoo. A large, roundish, dark cherry, inclining to black at matu- rity ; the flesh is firm and of an excellent flavour; raised by a daughter of Mr. Knight, and so named from perfecting its fruit soon after the battle of Waterloo. The tree is of strong but irregular growth, and ripens its fruit in July. HEART-SHAPED AND BIGARREAUS. AMERICAN AMBER, Early Amber, New Honey. A beautiful heart-shaped cherry, of medium size, and dark pink or amber colour; flesh, rich, sweet, and excellent. It ripens early in June. American Heart, Arden’s White Heart. A medium sized cherry, of pale yellowish colour; obtuse heart shaped; flesh tender and palatable, but not high flavoured. The tree, which ripens-its fruit in June, is very productive. Br_.LE DE Rocmont, Bigarreaw de Rocmont, Ceur de pigeon, Bigar- reaw commun. A beautiful heart shaped fruit, of pale yellowish and red colour, marbled and glossy; flesh firm, white; juice sprightly and of an agreeable flavour: in June and July. BicaRREAv, Black. Manning’s Black Bigarreau. This variety is con- sidered highly deserving a place in every good collection ; it originated in Mr. Manning’s nursery at Salem; the fruit is large, colour blacks flesh sweet and of peculiar rich flavour. ‘The tree grows handsome, is very productive, and ripens its fruit in July. BIGARREAU, Graffion, Turkey Bigarreau, Yellow Spanish, White Bi- garreau, Imperial, Guigne Ambree, White Orleans. Very large, obtuse, heart-shaped; yellowish amber colour, but fine red next the sun; flesh firm, white, sweet, and well flavoured ; a beautiful and excellent fruit : ripe in June and July. This variety commands the highest price in market. BicarreAu Wuire, White Ox Heart, and Harrison’s Heart, of Down- ing. White Bigarreaw Tradescant, and Bigarreaw blanc le gros. of Prince. Fruit large; obtuse heart shaped; of pale yellow and white colour, mot- tled with red; flesh white, firm, and well flavoured: ripe in June and July. Brack Eacus. A beautiful variety, raised by Miss Knight. of Downton Castle, 1806: fruit of globular form, and middle size; skin dark purple, or nearly black; flesh very tender, rich, and of excellent flavour. The tree grows strong, very upright, and ripens its fruit early. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 55 Brack Hearr, Guignier a Fruit noir. Fruit rather large, heart-shaped ; dark purple, approaching to black at maturity ; flesh dark red, tender, of excellent flavour: ripe early in July. Tree a good bearer. Brack Tartarian, Black Circassian, F waser's Black Tartarian, Black Russian, Ronald’s Large Black Heart, Fraser’s Black Heart. A very large heart-shaped fruit, of a most superior quality ; colour dark shining purple, or black; flesh firm, dark red or purple ; sweet, and of most excellent fia- vour: in June and July. The tree grows rapid, and is very productive. Davenport’s Earty Biack, New May Duke. This variety 1s consid- ered as one of the finest and most productive of early cherries known. The fruit is of medium size, heart-shaped, of a dark glossy black colour ; flesh firm, and of a pleasant sub-acid flavour. It ripens a week or ten days earlier than the May Duke. E:xnorn, Black Oxheart, Tradescant’s Black, Bigarreaw gros noir Large Black Bigarreau. A large, black, heart-shaped cherry, well suited to bear carriage to market from the firmness of its flesh. This varicty ripens the second and third week in July, when other kinds are scarce.— (Prince:) Exton. This excellent variety was raised by Mr. Knight in 1806; the tree is very vigorous and productive; the fruit is pretty large, heart-shaped ; pale glossy yellow in the shade, but marbled with bright red next the sun 5 flesh firm, sweet, and rich: ripens soon after the May Duke. Fuorence. A very fine heart-shaped cherry ; of a yellow amber colour, marbled with bright red in the shade, bright red next the sun; flesh toler- ably firm, juicy, rich, and sweet: ripe end of June and in July. Girvury, Apple Cherry. A native fruit of medium size, which originated on the farm of Mr. Girdley, of Roxbury, near Boston ; the colour is black, the flesh firm, and of a fine flavour: in July. The tree grows vigorous, and is very productive. Knicur’s Earty Buacx. The blossoms of this variety appear very early; its fruit resembles the Waterloo; of a rich dark hue; its flesh is firm. juicy. and abundantly sweet : by the middle of June. Mazzarp, Buack. This cherry grows wild, and is cultivated also in abundance in various parts of England. It is the principal fruit employed for the making of Cherry Brandy, and the stocks of the species are best adapted for nursery men to bud and graft the better kinds on. Navoxieon BieaRREAU, Bigarreaw Napoleon, Lawermann, Gros Bigar- reau de Luwermann. The tree of this variety is remarkable for the vigour and beauty of its growth; it produces a fine large white fruit with red spots; the flesh is remarkably white, solid, and of a sweet, agreeable fla- vour: early in July. Wurte BIGARREAU. Mr. Manning represents this as one of the largest and finest cherries known. ‘The form is obtuse, heart-shaped; skin pale yellow, with a bright red cheek ; flesh very firm, juicy, sweet, and fine fla- voured: ripe in July. Mr. Manning observes, that this variety has the re- putation of being a shy bearer, but that in his orchard it yields an abun- dance of fruit; and, that owing to the hardness of its flesh, is not liable to injury from birds; on this account, he says, it is highly deserving of cul- tivation. : -Wuuire Heart, Remington White Heart, Late White Heart. A mode- rate sized cherry, of pleasant flavour; chiefly valuable for its very late ma- 56 CHESTNUT: turity, being towards the end of August. It is said to have originated in Rhode Island. Wuite Tartarian, White Transparent Crimea, Fraser's White, Guigne de Russie blanc. A beautiful cherry, pale yellow, approaching to amber next the sun; a much admired fruit, of excellent flavour: a good bearer, ripening early in July. CHESTNUT. CuataicnerR. Castanea, Tue Chestnut is well known as a large tree, spreading its branches finely where it has room, but planted closely, will shoot up straight to a great height. It is supposed to have been originally from Sardis. It is so common as to be con+ sidered a native of France and Italy, and some consider it as naturalized in England; it is also indigenous in America. The London catalogues contain the names of thirty-two sorts under cultivation. ‘The Chestnut is, like the Walnut, both a timber and fruit tree; some of the oldest trees in the world are of this species.* The American Chestnut differs so little from the European, that no specific distinction can be drawn. It is one of the largest trees of the forest, the wood being extremely durable, and in high esteem for posts and rails to construct fences ; and the nuts are very delicious. The Castanea pumila, or Chinquapin nut, is a small tree, or rather shrub, growing to the height of thirty feet in the Southern States, but seldom exceeding ten in cold latitudes ; the fruit is very sweet and agreeable to eat. There is a variety with striped leaves, which is very orna- mental. The most esteemed of the French kinds are called Marron. Some excellent fruit-bearing varieties are culti- * At Fortworth, in Gloucestershire, Englend, is a large tree, fifty-two feet round, which in 1150 was called the ‘‘ Great Chestnut of Fortworth.” Marsham states that this tree is 1100 vears old, and that the timber is al- most incorruptible, and more durable than oak. Its durability is commen- surate with the long life of the tree. CRANBERRY. _ 57 vated in England, France, Italy, and Spain, as also in other parts of Europe ; these are increased by giafting or budding in the usual methods, but the plants for coppice wood, or timber, are best raised from nuts. Some varieties ripen their fruit a few days earlier than others, but none of these have been fixed on, or perpetuated .by nurserymen, so as to ren- der them available to purchasers. The fruit is a desirable nut for autumn or winter, and is eaten roasted, with salt, and sometimes raw; and in some countries it is not only boiled and roasted, but ground into meal, and puddings, cakes, and bread are made from it. CRANBERRY. CANNEBERGE. Oxycocus. Turis genus of plants is well distinguished from the Vae- cinium, or Whortleberry, by the narrow revolute segments of corolla; and are pretty little trailing evergreen plants, to which a peat soil, and rather moist situations, are absolutely necessary. ‘They are very little changed by culture. The Ozycocus macrocarpus is a red acid fruit, highly val- ned as a sweetmeat, or for tarts. It is well known that this excellent fruit grows in many parts of our country sponta- neously ; and that the mere gathering of it, is all that boun- tiful nature requires at our hands; but it is well worth cul- tivating where there are none. This fruit will keep a whole year, if properly preserved in close covered stone jars, and is considered by many as superior to the best currant jelly, and may be kept for many months in a raw state without injury. The Oxycocus palustris bears edible berries, which are gathered wild. both in England and Scotland, and made into tarts. Lightfoot says, that twenty or thirty ‘pounds’ worth are sold each market day, for five or six weeks together, in the town of Langtown, on the borders of Cumberland. 58 CURRANT. Nicol says, the American species are more easily culti- vated than the English, but is inferior to it in flavour. There is reason to believe that the quality of fruit of each of these species is subject to variations, which have not yet been prac- tically distinguished. Their cultivation is now so well un- derstood, that both may be considered with propriety as in- mates of the fruit garden. Some raise them from seed sown early in the spring; but it is best to set out plants, and lay the runners as they progress in growth. It is customary in England to prepare beds on the edges of ponds, which are banked up so as to admit of the wet getting underneath them; bog or peat earth is considered essential for the roots to run in, but it has been discovered that they can be cultivated in damp situations in a garden, with a top dressing of peat or bog earth, and if they are once suited as to the soil, the plants will multiply so as to cover the bed in the course of a year or two, by means of their long runners, which take root at different points. From a very small space a very large quantity of Cranberries may be gathered; and they prove a remarkably regular crop, scarcely affected by the state of the weather, and not subject to the attacks of insects. Sir Joseph Banks gives an account (in Hort. Trans., 1.71) of his success in culti- vating this fruit. “In one year, viz., 1813, from 326 square feet, or a bed about eighteen feet square, three and a half Winchester bushels of berries were produced, which, at five bottles to the gallon, gives one hundred and forty bottles, each sufficient for one Cranberry pie, from two and a half square feet.” CURRANT. GROSEILLER A GRAPPES. Ribes. Tus is a genus of well-known shrubs, much cultivated for their fruit. It is a native of the Northern parts of CURRANT. 59 Europe, and found in hedges and woods in England; and there are some species indigenous in America. The fruit, being of an agreeable sub-acid taste, is generally relished both as a dessert and in pies and tarts; it is also much used in making wine, and is grown to a considerable extent for that purpose in Essex, Kent, and about Pershore, in Wor- cestershire, England. There are ten species cultivated in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, comprising twelve varieties of red, ten of white, five kinds of black, together with a champagne, mountain, rock, upright, Penn- sylvanian, &c. Any number of varieties of the red and white may be procured from sowing the seed, but they are generally propagated by cuttings of the last year’s wood, which should be of sufficient length to form handsome plants, with a clear stem ten inches high; these may be planted immediately upon losing their leaves in autumn, or very early the ensuing spring. The Currant will grow in almost every soil, but prospers best in one loamy and rich. The best flavoured fruit is produced from plants in an open situation, but they will grow under the shades of walls or trees, and either as low bushes, or trained as espaliers. They bear chiefly on spurs, and on young wood of from one to three years’ growth, and, therefore, in pruning, most of the young wood should be cut to within two or three buds of that where it originated. After the plants are furnished with full heads. they produce many superfluous and irregular shoots every summer, crowding the general bearers, so as to require regulating and curtailing, both in the young growth of the year, and in older wood. The principal part of the work may be done in wiuter, or early in spring; but a preparatory part should be performed in summer, to eradicate suckers, and thin the superfluous shoots of the year, where they are so crowded as to exclude the sun and air from the fruit. In training espaliers and for standards, two branches are laid in a horizontal direction 60 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CURRANTS. along the bottom of the trellis, perhaps half a foot from the surface of the earth, and the growth from these, or of all up- right shoots, which will admit of being arranged at the distance of five or six inches from each other, is encouraged. Fan standards are sometimes trained with the branches radiating from the crown of the stem. The black Currant, or Ribes nigrum; is common in moist woods in Russia and Siberia; its culture is similar to that of the red, but as it is less apt to bear in spurs than on young wood, the shoots should not be so much shortened in this as in the other. Currant bushes will require to be planted at different dis- tances, according to the situation and mode of training, &c. When planted in beds, borders, or squares, they should be six feet apart, but if trained as espaliers, they will require to be eight feet apart. Many people dislike the flavour of black Currants; they are, therefore, not much used in the kitchen or dessert, and seldom in wine making. They make a jelley or jam, in estimation as a gargle for inflammatory sore throats. “ In Russia and Siberia, wine is made of the berries alone, or fermented with honey, and with or or without spirits. In Siberia they make a drink of the leaves; these tincture common spirits so as to resemble brandy, and a few of them dried and mixed with black tea, answer all the purposes of the green material.”’—( Loudon.) All kinds of Currants may be forced by placing them in any forcing department in January or February ; they will produce ripe fruit in April and May. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CURRANTS. Buacx Enexish, Common Black. This species is most generally culti- vated in private gardens for medicinal purposes; the berries are plentiful, of large size, and frequently hang on the bush two months, improving in flavour. Fic. 61 Brack Naprss. In this variety the fruit is larger, the clusters more nu- merous, and each cluster produces more berries than the ordinary kinds, on which account it is highly esteemed. CHAMPAGNE. The berries of this variety are of a pale red colour, which being transparent, causes it to be generally estimated as a dessert fruit. It is a prolific bearer. LarceE Rep, Red Dutch. This is the most desirable kind of the red fruited currant cultivated ; the bush, when properly trained and pruned, grows strong and upright, and produces an abundance of fine large berries. WHiTE Crystar, White Grape. An excellent variety, the berries of which are large, and of a beautiful clear transparent brilliancy; hence its name. Wuire Dutcu. This variety is held in great esteem for different pur- poses; the clusters and berries are large, of a yellowish white colour, and delicious flavour. The bushes are often so productive that the branches of the bearing wood trail beneath the weight of the fruit. Missourt Currant. This species is quite distinct from the ordinary kinds ; its berries are purple, and although of rather agreeable flavour, they are not to be compared with those under general cultivation. To these may be added Knight’s Sweet Red, Wilmot’s Large Red, Went- worth Red, Victoria, and Green Fruwited, lately introduced. The above are the most celebrated species of Currants. Some nurserymen’s catalogues contain many other names, a great proportion of which are, probably, a repetition of the same fruit. Where the Currant is cultivated for the purpose of making wine, the White and Red Dutch are to be pre- ferred to all others. or the dessert, the White Crystal and Champagne are great favourites, on account of their trans- parent clearness. FIG. Fieurzr. Ficus carica. THERE are many species of the Fig, which are all natives of warm climates. In some parts of Asia, and in the South of Europe, they are always grown as standards; and the fruit, green and dried, forms an important part of the food of the inhabitants. The London Horticultural catalogue contains the names of seventy-five sorts; and Messrs. Prince, of Flushing, have about forty names in their catalogue. It 6 62 FIG. is cultivated in England as a fruit tree, and, in warm sitta- tions, will ripen its fruit in the open air. In Sussex, on the sea-coast, it ripens its fruit on standards. Some of the best in England are at Arundel Castle; and there is a Fig or- chard of one hundred trees at Tarring, near Worthing. Those at Arundel are planted six or eight feet apart, and from a single stem allowed to continue branching conical heads, pruning chiefly irregular and redundant growths, and cutting out decayed or injured wood. The Fig tree may be propagated from seed, cuttings, layers, suckers, roots, and by grafting; the most generally approved method is by layers or cuttings, which come ito bearing the second, and sometimes the first year. No tree is more robust or more prolific; even plants in pots or tubs kept in a temperature adapted for the Orange tree, will fruit freely, and ripen two crops a year, and by being taken care of through the winter, will go on growing and ripening fruit without intermission. Mr. Knight has obtained from his hot-house in England, eight successive crops in a year, by bending the limbs in a position below the ‘horizontal. The trees will produce tolerable crops in the second year if rung or decorticated ; and by this process maturity of the fruit is accelerated, and its size increased.* Its maturity is also has- tened by pricking the fruit with a straw or quill dipped im olive oil, or even by slightly touching the fruit with oil, at the finger’s end.. In Fig countries the fruit is preserved by dipping it in scalding lye, made of the ashes of the Fig tree, and then dried in the sun. * Girdling, decortication, ringing, or circumcision, as it is sometimes va- riously called, consists in making two circular incisions quite round the limb, through the bark, at the distance of about a quarter of an inch asun- der, more or less. aecording to the size and thickness of the tree; then by making a perpendicular slit, the ring of the bark is wholly removed to the wood. Ringing or decortication is applicable to every kind of fruit tree, and to the vine. [ts operation is twofold. First, in the early production and abundance of blossom buds which it induces: and second, in increasing the size of the fruit and hastening its maturity, according to the season in waich the operation is performed. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FIGS. 63 When Figs are cultivated in a garden, a good loamy soil should be provided; and they may be trained to close fences, or trellises, in sheltered situations. At the approach of win- ter they must be protected; those trained to close fences may be secured through the winter by a covering of mat- ting; and such as may be in open situations should be libe- rated from the treilis, and laid down close to the ground, and covered three or four inches with earth; or trenches may be formed of that depth, sufficient to contain the branches, which should be fastened down with hooked pegs, without cramping them: such of the strong central branches as will not bend may be enveloped in litter. They should be pruned before they are laid down in November, and on being raised again in April, they may be trained as before. Figs may be cultivated in private gardens as easily as the vine. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FIGS. ANGELIQUE, Coucourelle Blanche, Melitte. Fruit rather small, some- what pyramidal; skin yellow, mottled with white; pulp white; seed tinged with red. In the neighbourhood of Paris this variety produces two crops annually; the first is usuaily thin, but the second very abundant and ex- cellent. Brack Irarian. Fruit small and round; pulp very delicious. Mr. Forsyth used to cultivate this kind in pots, and it is recorded that he has gathered from one plant two dozen figs in a day. BLueE on Puree, Large Blue, Great Blue, Large Purple. Fruit large, oblong; skin purple, covered with thick blue bloom; pulp deep red, and of a rich flavour: ripe in August. The tree is hardy and prolific. Bourpeaux, Figue Poire, Violette de Bourdeaug. Fruit of a pyramidal figure ; skin brownish red, slightly mottled; pulp red, succulent, and sweet. This is cultivated throughout France, and produces two crops annually. Brown Turkey. Fruit small and round; puip very delicious. This and the Black Italian are mentioned by Mr. Forsyth as being cultivated by him in pots, and each possessing equal merit. Brunswick, Madonna, Hanover. Fruit very large, obovate ; skin pale green, tinged with yellow; flesh pinkish, extremely rich, and high flavoured. This is one of the largest and best hardy figs for garden culture, and it will ripen in the neighbourhood of London by the middle of August. Cuzstaut, Chestnut-coloured Ishia, Brown Ischia. Fruit globular. of large size ; skin of a brown chestnut colour; pulp purple, sweet, and high 64 FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. flavoured This kind will often yield two crops in England, the first fruit of which ripens in August. Earty Waite, Small Early White. Fruit somewhat round ; skin thin ; when fully ripe of a pale yellow colour; pulp white, sweet, and of plea- sant flavour. This generally ripens two crops in one season. Green Iscuta. Fruit oblong; skin green, very thin; pulp purple, which, when fully ripe, stains the skin to a brownish cast. ‘This is a very high flavoured fig, especially in warm countries: ripe in August. Larce WuitE Genoa. Fruit large, globular; skin thin, white, turning to yellow when fully ripe; pulp red, and of good flavour, This in Eng- ’ Jand bears two crops, annually. Ma.ta, Small Brown, of some gardens. Fruit small; skin pale brown; pulp very sweet and well flavoured: ripe in August, and if left hanging on the tree until shrivelled, it becomes a fine sweetmeat. Neri. The Nerii fig is highly esteemed in England. Fruit oblong, of medium size; skin pale greenish yellow; the flesh is very rich, and the juice possesses a delicate acidity, which renders it peculiarly palatable: ripe _ in August. | PRecussaTA. Fruit large, oblate; skin dark brown; pulp deep red; re- markably sweet and rich: ripe in August. Pureie Genoa. Fruit large, long; skin dark purple; pulp extremely sweet and luscious: ripe in August. VIOLETTE, Figue Violette. The Violet Fig, like the Angelique, is much cultivated in the neighbourhood of Paris, and produces two crops annually. Fruit small ; skin deep violet; pulp, near the skin, white; the interior red, and of excellent flavour. Wire MarseErixes, Pocock, Figue Blanche. Fruit medium size, some- what turbinate; skin pale green, becoming yellowish when fully ripe: flesh white, dry, sweet, and rich: ripe in August. YELLow Iscura,.Cyprus. Fruit large, of a pyramidal form, skin yel- low, when fully ripe; pulp purple and high flavoured: in August and September. FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. Noisetrer AvELINIER. Corylus, Tue Filbert, in many varieties, and also the common Ha- zlenut, grow spontaneously in the woods of Britain, and some few varieties are indigenous in this country. The kinds of Filberts generally cultivated are the white, red, cob, ‘clustered, and frizzled; of each of which there are many varieties. As this shrub is so easily cultivated, it is a matter of astonishment that the nuts from this genus of plants are so scarce in our markets. In different parts of England FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. 65 there are Filbert orchards. Iw the Filbert grounds about Maidstone, in Kent, it is a prevailing practice to cultivate Hops, standard Apples, and Cherries, among the Filberts; when these come into a bearing® state, the Hops are taken up and transplanted elsewhere, and the fruit trees only suf- fered to remain. The spare ground is then planted with Gooseberries, Currants, &c. The Red Filbert is allowed to have a finer flavour than the White. The Cob-nut is large, with a thick shell, but the kernel is sweet and of consider- able size. The Barcelona is a good large nut, with a thin shell. The Cosford is very sweet, kernels well, and the tree is a great bearer. The Bond Nut, and the Lambert Nut are of large size, roundish shape, and very prolific bearers. The Frizzled Filbert is highly esteemed. It is beautiful when in the husk, and its flavour is very similar to that of the White Filbert; the shell of which is also thin, and its kernel sweet and fine. All the different kinds may be grown as dwarf standards; or they will bear very well if planted in clumps: but as they produce an abundance of suckers, these should be parted off frequently, and planted in a nursery bed for stocks; as the bearing plants will cease to produce fruit in any quantity, if the suckers are allowed to form a thick bush. They may be propagated by seed, by suckers, by layers, or by grafting in the spring upon seedling or sucker stocks. The Filbert bears principally upon the sides of the upper young branches, and upon small shoots which proceed from the bases of side branches cut off the preceding year. The leading shoot is every year to be shortened, and every shoot that is left to produce fruit should be clipped; which pre- vents the tree from being exhausted in making wood at the end of the branch. Such branches as may have borne fruit, must be cut out every year, in order to promote the growth of a supply of young fruit-bearing branches. 6* 66 GOOSEBERRY. GOOSEBERRY. GrosEiLuER. Ribes grossularia, wa, crispa, etc. Tae Gooseberry is a native of several parts of Hurope, and is indigenous in America, as far north as 68°, It is cultivated to greater perfection in England than in any other part of the world. In Spain and Italy, this fruit is scarcely known. In France, it is neglected. In Lancashire, Eng- land, and some parts of the adjoining counties, almost every cottager cultivates the Gooseberry, with a view to prizes given at what are called Gooseberry Prize Meetings; of these, there is annually published an account, with the names and weights of the successful sorts, in what is called the Manchester Gooseberry Book. The prizes vary from ten shillings to five and ten pounds sterling. There are meet- ings held in the spring to ‘‘ make up,” as the term is, the persons, and the conditions of exhibition; and in August, to weigh and test the fruit, and determine the prizes. In Lindley’s Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden, seven hundred and twenty-two varieties are described ; from which the following are selected, as in most repute for size, flavour, and other good qualities: RED. British Crown, Boardman’s. This variety is noted as being a fine fla- voured fruit, especially for tarts. Thirty-three prizes had been awarded for it in 1829; the largest berry weighing 1S pennyweights and 10 grains. CHAmpacne. The fruit of this variety is held in great esteem for its delicious flavour; the berry is of medium size, somewhat oblong and hairy. Caprer’s Top Sawyer. This is a late fruit, of oblong shape, and hairy near the base. One hundred and seventy-one prizes were obtained for this in 1838 and 9; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. Crown Bos, Melling’s. This variety won eighty-five prizes in two sea- sons; the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. and 12 grains. It is a late fruit, of oblong shape, bright red colour, and hairy. Earty Rep, Wilmot’s. This variety is considered by Mr. Wilmot as first rate of its colour. It hasa thin skin; is of large size, very early, of excellent flavour, and incredibly productive. Huntsman. This variety, which originated with Mr. Bratherton, took GOOSEBERRY. 67 two hundred and sixteen prizes in 1828 and 9; the heaviest berry weighed 24 dwts. LAncasHiIre LAp, Hartshorn’s. One hundred and fifty-six prizes were awarded for this variety in two years; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11] grains. Marauis or StarrorD, Knight’s. This much esteemed late variety is hairy, of medium size, bright red colour, and delicious flavour. O_p Rouen RED. This is a favourite fruit for family use ; the berries are of medium size, of dark red colour; excellent for preserving as goose- berry jam, and for bottling in an unripe state. Ovur-att, Bratherton’s. This variety took seventy-four. prizes in two seasons, the average weight of the berries being 20 dwts. Itisa highly esteemed fruit. ‘ Proveuzoy. This is a medium sized early fruit, in great repute for its delicious flavour and productiveness. Prince Recent, Boardman’s. This variety won one hundred and forty-one prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11 grains. Roarine Lion, Farmer’s. In 1828 three hundred and forty-nine prizes were awarded for this variety ; and in 1829 it won four hundred and fifty- three prizes, the largest berry weighing 29 dwts.; since which time, ber- ries have been known to weigh over an ounce and a half. SHAKSPEARE. Sixty prizes were awarded for this variety in two sea- sons; the average weight of the berries were about 20 dwts. Itis a great bearer. Sir Joun Cotcrave, Bratherton’s. This variety took three hundred and forty-three prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 25 dwts. 2 grains. TriumpeHant, Denny’s. This is a medium sized early berry, weighing about 16 dwts. It is considered equal in quality to any gooseberry of its colour. Warzinetron. This is a favourite fruit for private gardens ; the berries are of medium size, very rich flavoured, and ripen gradually without de- teriorating. YELLOW. Bunxer’s Hitt, Capper’s. Two hundred and ten prizes were awarded for this variety in two years; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 2 grains. Brivannta. This variety is noted for its earliness and delicious flavour. The fruit is of medium size, weighing about 18 dwts. Corrac# Giri, Heaps’s. This variety won one hundred and thirty-three prizes in two seasons; the largest berry weighing 19 dwts. 14 grains. Gotpen Gourp. Hill’s. A fine early fruit of medium size; shape ob- long; skin thin, slightly hairy, of rich flavour, and not apt to mildew. Go_pEn YELLOw, Dizxon’s. This is a favourite, medium sized, early fruit for private gardens; the skin is smooth, thin, and transparent, and the berries will hang some time without becoming flat and insipid. Gunner. Hurdcastle’s. One hundred and ninety-two prizes were given for this variety in 1828; and in 1829 one hundred and eighty-one prizes were awarded ; the heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts. 5 grains; fruit rather late. 68 GOOSEBERRY. InvinciBLE, Haywood’s. Thiscelebrated fruit is of medium size, weigh- ing about 18 dwts; skin thin, transparent; pulp saccharine and deli- cious. Kiiton Hero, Hamlet’s Kilton. One of the best early yellow fruited gooseberries; fruit oblong, slightly hairy, excellent for cooking while im- mature, and delicious eating when fully ripe. RecuLartor, Prophet’s. A very fine fruit, of medium size and rich acid flavour; good for bottling, being firm, and not liable to crack. Rocx woop, Prophet's. The fruit of this variety is very early; it is of a roundish, oblong shape, and slightly hairy. Itwon three hundred and three prizes in two years ; the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. 3 grains. Sovrerertcn, Bratherton’s. Two hundred and two prizes were obtained for this variety in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. Vieer, Gordon’s. This is an early smooth fruit, and won eighty-seven prizes in two years; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 5 grains. GREEN. Aner, Collier’s. Three hundred and sixty-five prizes were awarded for this variety in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. } grain. Earty Green, Harry. This variety is described in the Pomological Magazine as a very early fruit; it is round, hairy, of a deep green colour and excellent flavour, but not large. FAVOURITE, Bates’s. Two hundred and thirty-five prizes were given for this variety in two years; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 20 grains. Greenwoop, Berry's. This variety obtained two hundred and four prizes in two seasons; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 4 grains. It is a deliciously flavoured fruit. Green Gace, Pitmaston’s. A beautiful berry of medium size; skin pale green, smooth and transparent; will hang long on the bush, and retain its rich acid flavour when fully ripe. Green Myrtre, Nizon’s. A fine late gooseberry of large size, oblong _ shape; skin smooth, of pale green colour; pulp saccharine, juicy, and of peculiar rich flavour. Heart or Oax, Massey’s. Fruit of medium size, early; skin smooth, green, with pale yellow veins; pulp rich, and high flavoured even when fully ripe. INDEPENDENT, Bigg’s. One hundred and twenty-one prizes were given for this variety in two years; the largest berry weighing 16 dwts. 4 grains. It is an early rich fruit. Jorty Tar, Edwards’s. Fruit early, of medium size; skin smooth, green, with yellow veins ; average weight about 15 dwts; good to preserve while immature, and of delicious flavour when fully ripe. Laure, Parkinson’s. Fruit of medium size; skin pale green, very . downy; an excellent dessert fruit, in great repute. Lorp Crewe, Clution’s. This celebrated variety obtained ninety-six prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing about 23 dwts. Itis a prolific bearer. and worthy of general cultivation. Oczan, Wuinman’s. This variety won two hundred and seventy-eight GOOSEBERRY. 69 prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts.8 grains. The fruit is oblong and smooth. TRovuBLER, Moore’s. One hundred and sixty prizes were taken for this variety in two years; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 13 grains. Wistaston Hero, Bratherton’s. Fruit of medim size, pale green co- jour ; of rich pungent flavour; excellent for preserves, and when fully ripe it is a delicious dessert fruit. f WHITE. Bonny Lass, Capper’s. This variety won one hundred and sixty-seven prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 21 dwts. 10 grains. CHESHIRE Lass, Sawnders’s. This is one of the earliest varieties, and makes excellent tarts. The fruit is large, oblong, downy, and fine flavoured. GoveRnEss, Bratherton’s. One hundred and twenty-four prizes were awarded for this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 24 dwts. Lapy DeLamERE, Wylds’s. This variety took two hundred and fifty- three prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 6 grains. Lapy or THE Manor. This variety won ninety-eight prizes in two seasons, the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 9 grains. It is held in great _esteem for its productiveness. Lioness. Fruit of medium size, oblong shape; skin thin, transparent ; pulp and juice saccharine and delicious. Naixer, Blomiley’s. One hundred and thirty-four prizes were given for this variety in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 12 grains. QUEEN CaRotiInE. This variety won one hundred and forty-two prizes in two years; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 1 grain. It is a richly flavoured fruit. SHEBA QuEEN, Crompfon’s. This is a favourite variety for private gar- dens ; the fruit is early, of medium size ; shape oblong ; skin rather downy ; pulp pungent and rich. Smitine Girnu. This is a smallish early fruit, with thin transparent skin, and of peculiarly rich flavour even when fully ripe. _ WeLuiineTon’s Grory. One hundred and seventy-three prizes were ob- tained in two seasons for this variety ; the largest berry weighing 20 dwts. 4 grains. ; ; Waits Buar, Moore’s. A fine early dessert fruit ; of medium size and oblong shape; skin hairy and somewhat bristly ; a prolific bearer. Wuitrrt Eacte. This variety gained four hundred and seventy-six prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 23 dwts. 12 grains. Wuire Lion, Chelworth’s. One hundred and two prizes were given for this variety in two years; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 22 grains. The fruit is late, slightly hairy, and excellent for tarts. Wuitesmiru, Woodward's. This is a small early berry, weighing about 14 dwts. Theskin is downy, and the fruit is fully equal to any gooseberry of its colour. The Gooseberry may be propagated by all the modes ap- plicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is usually adopted for continuing varieties, and that by seed for pro- 70 GOOSEBERRY. curing them. The cuttings should be taken from promising shoots just before the leaves begin to fall in the autumn; the greatest part of the buds should be taken off, leaving only two or three buds on the top. Cut them at such a length as the strength and ripeness of the wood will bear ; and plant them in good pulverized soil. On the approach of winter, lay some moss or litter around them; and, by being well cultivated, they will be fit to transplant when they are a year old. When bushes are procured from the public nurseries, let the general supply be in such kinds as will ripen in succes- sion. They may be planted in the kitchen garden, in single rows, along the side of the walks or paths, or in compart- ments by themselves, in rows from six to eight feet apart from row to row, and five or six feet apart in the rows; or in small gardens, they may be trained to a single tall stem, and tied to a stake; this, though six or eight feet high, occa- sions scarcely any shade, and it does not occupy much room, nor exclude air, while, at the same time, the stem becomes closely hung with berries, and makes a pleasant appearance in that state. Persons of taste may train them on arched trel- lises, and if they are judiciously managed, the ground around them may be more easily cultivated; the fruit may be kept from being splashed with rain, and may be easily gathered when wanted, or preserved by shading with mats, &c. Those who may have a choice of soil and site, should fix on a good, rich, loamy earth, and plant some of the choice kinds in a northern and eastern aspect, near the fence, to come late in succession. The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the shoots of the preceding year, and on shoots two or three years old, but also on spurs or snags arising from the older branches along the sides; but the former afford the largest fruit. The shoots retained for bearers should therefore be left at full length, or nearly so; the first pruning should be done before the buds swell, so as not to endanger their being rubbed off GOOSEBERRY. - 71 in the operation. Cut out all the superfluous cross shoots, and prune long ramblers and low stragglers to some well placed lateral or eye: retain a sufficiency of the young well situated laterals and terminals to form successional bearers. In cutting out superfluous and decayed wood, be careful to retain a leading shoot at the end of a principal branch. The superfluous young laterals on the good main branches, in- stead of being taken off clean, may be cut into little stubs of one or two eyes, which will send out fruit buds and spurs. Some persons not pruning the Gooseberry bush on right principles, cause it to shoot crowdedly full of young wood in summer, the fruit from which is always small, and does not ripen freely with full flavour; on which account it is an important point in pruning, to keep the middle of the head open and clear, and to'let the occasional shortening of the shoots be sparing and moderate. Between the bearing branches keep a regulated distance of at least six inches at the extremities, which will render them fertile bearers of good fruit. The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire are par- ticular in preparing a very rich soil, and they water occa- sionally with the liquor which drains from dunghills; and there are some who, not content with watering at the root and over the top, place a small saucer of water under each Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are left on a bush; this is technically called suckling. There are others who ring some of the branches; this is done by cutting out small circles of bark round them; and by pinching off a great part of the young wood, the strength is thrown to the fruit. Unripe Gooseberries may be preserved in bottles against winter: some, after filling the bottles in a dry state, stand them in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to heat them gradually through without cracking them; they will keep a whole year if closely corked and sealed as soon as cold. The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes, placed in pits, or in the peach house or vinery. ‘ Hay plants in 72 GRAPE. pots in November, removes to the peach house in January, and has ripe fruit in the end of April, which he sends to table growing on the plants.”—Hort. Trans. iv. 415. GRAPE. Viene. Vitis, vinifera, vulpina. Tue Grape Vine is described by Loudon as a trailing deciduous hardy shrub, with a twisted, irregular stem, and long, flexible branches, decumbent, like those of the bramble, or supporting themselves, when near other trees, by means of tendrils, like the pea. The leaves are large, lobed, entire, or serrated and downy, or smooth, green in summer, but when mature, those of varieties in which the predomi- nating colour is red, constantly change to, or are tinged with some shade of that colour; and those of white, green, or yellow Grapes, as constantly change to yellow, and are never in the least tinged either with purple, red, or scarlet. The breadth of the leaves varies from five to seven or ten inches, and the length of the foot stalks from four to eight inches. The flowers are produced on the shoots of the same year, which shoots generally proceed from those of the year preceding: they are in the form of a raceme, of a greenish white colour, and fragrant odour, appearing in the open air in June; and the fruit, which is of the berry kind, attains such maturity as the season and situation admit, by the middle or end of September. The berry, or Grape, is generally globular, but often ovate, oval, oblong, or finger- shaped; the colour green, red, yellow, amber, and black, or a variegation of two or more of these colours. The skin is smooth, the pulp and juice of a dulcet, poignant, elevated, generous flavour. Every berry ought to enclose five small heart or pear shaped stones; though, as some generally fail, they have seldom more than three, and somé yarieties, ‘ GRAPE. ! 73 when they attain a certain age, as the Ascalon, or Sultana raisin, none. The weight of a berry depends not only on its size, but on the thickness of its skin and texture of the flesh, the lightest being the thin-skinned and juicy sorts, as the Sweet Water or Muscadine; and what are considered as large berried of these varieties, will weigh from five to seven pennyweights, and measure from one to two-thirds of an inch in girth. A good-sized bunch of the same sorts may weigh from two to six pounds; but bunches have been grown of the Syrian Grape, in Syria, weighing forty pounds, and in Eneland weighing from ten to nineteen pounds. A single vine, in a large pot, or grown as a dwarf standard, in the manner practised in the vineyards in the North of France, ordinarily produces from three to nine bunches; but by superior management in gardens in England, the number of bunches is prodigiously increased, and one plant, that of the red Hamburgh sort, in the vinery of the royal gardens at Hampton Court, has produced two thousand two hundred bunches, averaging one pound each, or in all nearly a ton. That at Valentine, in Essex, has produced two thousand bunches of nearly the same average weight. The age to which the vine will attain in warm climates is so great as not to be known. It is supposed to be equal or even to surpass that of the oak. Pliny speaks of a vine which had existed six hundred years; and Bose says, there are vines in Burgundy upward of four hundred years of age. In Italy there are vineyards which have been in a flour- ishing state for upward of three centuries, and Miller tells us that a vineyard a hundred years old is reckoned young. The extent of the branches of the vine, in certain situations and circumstances, is commensurate with its produce and soil. In the hedges of Italy, and woods of America, they are found overtopping the highest elm and poplar trees; and in England, one plant, (lately dead,) trained against a row of houses in Northallerton, covered a space, in 1585, of one hundred and thirty-seven square yards; it was then above 74 GRAPE. one hundred years old. That at Hampton Court, nearly of the same age, occupies above one hundred and sixty square yards; and that at Valentine, in Essex, above one hundred and forty-seven square yards. The size to which the trunk, or stem, sometimes attains in warm climates, is so great as to have afforded planks fifteen inches broad, furniture, and statues; and the Northallerton vine, above mentioned, in 1785 measured four feet in ci1:cumference near the ground, and one branch of the Hampton, Court vine measures one hundred and fourteen feet in length. Vine timber is of great durability. The varieties of the Grape in countries where it is grown for the wine press, are as numerous as the vineyards; for as these for the most part differ in soil, aspect, elevation, or otherwise, and as the vine is greatly the child of local cir- cumstances, its habits soon become adapted to those in which it is placed. When it is considered that a vineyard once planted will last two or three centuries, it will readily be conceived that the nature of a variety may be totally changed during only a part of that time. The varieties mostly in esteem for wine making are small berries, and bunches with an austere taste. The Burgundy, as modified by different soils and situations, may be considered the most general vineyard Grape of France, from Champagne. or Marne, to Marseilles or Bordeaux. The best wine in Italy and Spain is also made from Grapes of this description ; but in both countries many of the larger- berried sorts are grown on account of their producing more liquor. The sweet wines, as the Malmsey, Madeira, Con- stantia, Tokay, &c., are made from sweet-berried Grapes, allowed to remain on the plants till over-ripe. That wine is the strongest, and has most flavour, in which both the skins and stones are bruised and fermented. The same thing is the case in making cider; but in both processes bruising the stones or kernels is neglected. The vine was formerly extensively cultivated in Britain for the wine press, GRAPE. ip but its culture is now confined to the garden as a dessert fruit ; and they have in that country not only the best varie- ties, but they grow the fruit to a larger size, and of a higher flavour, than is done any where else in the world; this is owing to the perfection of their artificial climates, and the great attention paid to soil and subsoil, and other points of culture. The fruit is produced in some vineries during every month in the year; and in the London markets (generally) it is to be had in the highest degree of perfection from March to January. The vine will thrive in any soil that has a dry bottom; and in such as are rich and deep it will grow luxuriantly, and produce abundance of large fruit; in shallow, dry, chalky, or gravelly soils, it will produce less fruit, but of better flavour. Speechly recommends dung reduced to a black mould, the dust and dirt of roads, the offal of animals, or butchers’ manure, horn shavings, old rags, shavings of leather, bone dust, dung of deer and sheep, human excre- ment when duly meliorated by time, a winter’s frost, and repeatedly turning over. Abercrombie says that dung out of a cow-house, perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the vine; he recommends drainings from dunghills to be used over the ground once in ten or fourteen days from the time the buds rise, till the fruit is set, and that fresh horse dung be spread over the ground in autumn as a manure, and also to protect the roots from the imelemency of the weather; some, however, disapprove of manuring high, as being cal- culated to produce wood rather than fruit.* The general mode of propagating the vine is by cuttings, either a foot or more long, with a portion of two year old * It bas been proved by repeated experiments that the best manure for vines, is the branches pruned from the vines themselves, cut into small pieces and mixed with the soil by means of a garden hoe. Pr. Liebig, in his ‘Organic Chemistry,’ mentions several instances of vines being kept in a thriving condition for from ten to thirty years by the trimmings of vines alone. The discovery was made by poor peasants, who could not afford to buy the ordinary kinds of manure. 76 GRAPE. wood, or short, with only one bud, or one bud and a half joint, &c. Vines are to be had at the nurseries, propagated either from layers, cuttings, or eyes; but plants raised from cuttings are generally preferred; many are of opinion that it is a matter of indifference from which class the choice is made, provided the plants are well rooted, and in good health, and the wood ripe. A mode of very general utility is to select the plants in the nursery a year before wanted, and to order them to be potted in very large pots. Varie- ties without end are raised from seed, and it is thought that by propagating from the seed of successive generations, some sorts may ultimately be procured, better adapted for ripening their fruit in the open air than now known. A seedling vine, carefully treated, will show blossoms in its fourth or fifth year; say that it produces a fair specimen of its fruit in the sixth year, then a new generation may be obtained so often; but seed ought never to be sown, except for experiment. The following method of grafting the vine is recommended by Mr. Loudon: Select a scion with one good eye; pare it beneath the eye and on the opposite side, in the form of a wedge. Select from the stock to be grafted on, a. branch of the preceding year; cut this off a little above the second eye from its base; then with a sharp knife split it down the centre nearly to the old wood. Out of each half of the stock, but chiefly out of that half which is opposite the bud, pare off as much as is necessary to make it fit the scion, which must be inserted with its eye opposite to the eye which is left on the top of the stock, and bandaged together carefully with bass matting. Some use grafting clay, others composition ; in either case, a small hole for the eye of the graft, and another hole for the eye left on the stock, must. be left open. Tie over a little moss, to be occasionally sprin- kled with water. It is very essential that the young shoot on the top of the stock should be allowed to grow for ten or fifteen days; then cut it off, leaving only one eye and one DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF GRAPES. 77 leaf to draw the sap and keep alive the circulation, till both scion and stock are perfectly united. William Robert Prince, in his Treatise on the Vine, pub- lished in 1830, enumerated about five hundred and fifty va- rieties under cultivation, in the vineyard attached to the Lin- neean Botanic Garden at Flushing, including about ninety American native Grapes; but no sufficient evidence has as yet been exhibited of the foreign varieties flourishing in vineyards here, equal to what they do in Europe. Mr. Lou- bat once attempted to establish a vineyard on Long Island, which he abandoned after six years’ arduous exertion. The following have been found to succeed best in private shel- tered gardens in the vicinity of New-York: the Sweetwater, the Chasselas, the Muscadine, the White Tokay, the Black Hamburgh, the Blue Cortiga, the Miller Burgundy, the Austrian Muscadel, the Messlier, the Morilon, the Black Prince, Blanc, and some excellent seedling sorts from the imported Lisbon Grapes. To plant a vinery for a full crop of good Grapes of various flavours, take a white and red Muscat, a white and red, or black Muscadel, a white Raisin Grape, a white and red Hamburgh, a Stilwell’s, and red Sweetwater, a white and red Nice, a black Damascus, a red Syracuse, and a black Constantia. The above list con- tains some of the most esteemed table Grapes of all colours and flavours, which will ripen in succession. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NATIVE GRAPES. ALEXANDER, Constantia of Vevay, Madeira of York, Pa., Winne, Schuyl- kill Muscadel. A good wine fruit, of large size, blackish colour, and ob- long form; very juicy and pungent; a great and sure bearer. Brann, Bland’s Madeira, Biand’s Virginia, Mazzci, Powel. A pale red grape, of large size and round shape, rather musky, but the juice is sweet and lively. CaRo_ina PERFUMED. A medium sized fruit, of purple colour and rather an unpleasant odour; it is, however, considered as well adapted for wine, being rather pungent, very juicy, and pulpless. T* 78 GRAPE. Catawsa, Red Muncy, To Kalon. A fine variety, above medium size, of dark red colour, in form round, in flavour delicious for the dessert, and highly productive; it ripens soon after the Isabella. CunnincHam. A native of Prince Edward’s county, Virginia; the ber- ries are round, black, of medium size, and not liable to rot; they are said to resemble, in taste, the Nigrillo of Madeira, and are considered good for wine as well as for the table. Exsinzurec. Fruit small, round, of purple colour, and delicate musky flavour, without pulp; good for wine, and as a dessert fruit; the vine is very hardy and productive. Hrpe’s Eriza. Berries large, oval, of violet colour, and excellent fla- vour ; alike suited for the dessert and for wine. IsaBeLtta. A well known and highly estimated variety. Fruit large, oval, of rich purple colour, covered with bloom; skin, under good cultiva- tion, thin; flesh juicy, rich, and vinous ; an excellent dessert fruit. LurporoucH. A sweet fox grape of large size and round shape; skin, dark purple; pulp dissolving in a saccharine musky juice. Mappox. A good wine grape, not liable: to rot; it is of medium size; roundish; of a brownish red colour, and a brisk vinous flavour. Norton’s Vircinia SrEepiine, Longworth’s Ohio. An early fruit of medium size and dark purple colour; it ripens in September; makes ex- cellent wine ; it is also generally approved asa dessert fruit. Ponn’s Srepiinc. A large purple grape of roundish form, thin skin, and of rich pungent flavour; adapted for wine, as well as for the table. ScurPpERnonc. This species is very prolific; the berries are large, round- ish, and of a colour varying from brick red to black; makes peculiar Mus- cat wine, and is highly esteemed as a dessert fruit. Warren, Madeira. A round fruit of medium size and dark purple co- lour ; it is considered by some as the most luscious of all native grapes; it makes excellent wine. Woopson. A small round black Virginian variety, from Prince Edward’s county; it is celebrated as a very proper fruit for the manufacture of sparkling wine ; it ripens later than most other varieties, but yields abun- dantly. The above list comprises the most esteemed species of Native Grapes under cultivation; the greater part of which, with the best of the foreign varieties, may be purchased at the Commercial Garden and Nursery of Messrs. Parsons & Co., Flushing, Long Island, near New-York. Previous to planting vines, care should be taken that the ground be well pulverized and prepared for some distance around for the roots to spread. The soil should be deep and. dry, and some rich compost, or vegetable mould, should be used around the roots in filling in; a handful or two of wet GRAPE. 79 sshes to each plant is recommended by Mr. Loubat, as bene- ficial; and he recommends the planting to be done in the month of March, or early in April. There are various methods adopted in training and prun- ing the vine; and it appears impossible to lay down rules to suit every cultivator. The vine having, like other trees, a tendency to produce its most vigorous shoots at the ex- tremities of the branches, and particularly so at those which are situated highest, it generally happens, when it is trained high, that the greater portion of the fruit is borne near the top; and it has been observed, that the fruit produced on the vigorous shoots, which naturally grow at the extremities of the long branches, is generally more abundant, and of finer quality than that produced on the short lateral ones, from which circumstance, high training seems to be the best calculated for private gardens. In some parts of Italy, vines are cultivated together with Mulberry trees, and are allowed to mingle and hang in fes- toons; thus silk and wine are produced on the same spot ; and it is considered that when vines are allowed to grow ever trees, on the side of a house, or on bowers, or extended on tall poles, without much trimming, they will produce more fruit, and are not so liable to mildew. Dr. G. W. Chapman, of New-York, having paid some attention to the cultivation of native Grapes, observes, that the vine, in its natural state, seldom or never throws out bearing shoots until it reaches the top of the tree on which it ascends, when the branches take a horizontal or descend- ing position. From this fact he considers horizontal trainmg preferable to that in the fan shape. From the experiments he has made, he has found that the shoots coming from those parts of the branches bent downward, are more productive than from those ascending; he considers deep digging around the vine, even to the destruction of some of the ex- tending roots, as calculated to promote the growth of more fruit and less wood, than if allowed to spread near the sur- 80 GRAPE. face ; and he disapproves stopping the shoots before the fruit until early in July. Mr. William Wilson, of Clermont, leaves his foreign vines their whole length at the time of trimming in October. In November, they are laid on the ground at full length, fastened down with pins, and covered lightly with earth ; in this state they lie all the winter. In April, as soon as the weather will permit, they are uncovered, and left lying on the ground ten or twelve days: by the first of May, the vines are trained to stakes or poles of the length of ten feet and upward; and by the middle of June the stakes are entirely covered by new shoots of the vine, and with plenty of fruit, which ripens in September. Mr. W. says, that until he pursued his present course, his fruit was frequently blasted and mil- dewed, but that he has now vines twenty or thirty feet long, which run up the fruit trees adjoining ; others, being carried up eight or ten feet, are stretched horizontally. It is seldom he gathers fruit within three or four feet of the ground, and he has never any blasted or infected with mildew; he keeps the ground cultivated by frequent hoeing; but he says he has used no manure for ten years or more. Edward H. Bonsall has a vineyard of American Grapes at Germantown, Pa., in a high state of cultivation. In page 331 of Prince’s Treatise on the Vine, is a letter to the au- thor, containing some valuable information, from which the following is extracted as appropriate to our subject. Mr. Bonsall’s vineyard is situated between the Schuylkill and Delaware Rivers, four miles from the former, and eight from the latter, at an elevation of three hundred feet above their level; has an aspect facing S.S. E., with a substratum of light isinglass soil, and seems well suited to the purpose. He says, “from my experience, both on my premises and at other places, it is my opinion that we should reject almost all the foreign varieties, especially where our object in culti- vating them is to make wine.” He has upward of thirty varieties of American vines under cultivation; he recom- GRAPH. Si riends preparing the ground by ploughing with two ploughs with strong teams, one immediately behind the other, in the same furrow, each of them set deep; and after the plough- ing is completed, to be harrowed thoroughly. Then in the direction the rows are intended to be planted, parallel fur- rows are run across the field, at the distance of eight feet from each other; these are afterward crossed at right an- gles, five feet asunder. In the opening, at the intersection of these furrows, cuttings from nine to twelve inches long are planted, and arranged with a view to the vines being, when grown, at distances of four by seven feet from each other; to this end, he frequently plants two cuttings in a place, some of which are used to fill up with, in case of failures. He says, that in 1829 he planted in nursery beds from two to three thousand cuttings as late as the middle of April to the middle of May, with better success than at any previous time. “In this case the slips should be kept in a cool, damp place, where vegetation may be held in check. To insure their freshness, sprinkle them occasionally with water. Previous to planting cut them a proper length, and place them with their lower ends three or four inches in water, in a tub above ground, where they may soak three or four days. At this season the temperature will be likely to be such as to spur vegetation at once into healthy and vigorous action. ‘The autumn, or early in the spring, is preferable for rooted plants. In the autumn of the first year, after the frost has killed the unripe part of the young shoots, they should be pruned down to the mature, firm wood, and then with a hoe hilled over with the surrounding soil, which will completely protect them through the winter. If left without protection the first winter, many of them will perish.” Mr. Bonsall says, his mode of training, as far as he is aware of it, is entirely peculiar to himself, which he describes as follows: “I take chestnut posts, the thickness of large fence rails, seven feet in length; these I plant along the 82 GRAPE. rows, at distances of ten feet from each other, and at such a depth as to leave five feet above the surface of the earth; then taking three nails to each post, and driving them to within half an inch of their heads, the first two and a half feet from the ground, a second midway between that and the top, and the third near the top, I attach No. 11 iron wire (one degree soft is best) firmly to one of the nails in the end post, pass on to the next, and stretching it straight and tight, give it one turn round a nail in the same line as the one to which it was first attached. Having in this manner extended it along the three courses, the whole length of the row, my trellis is formed. I have had a portion of my vine- yard fitted up in this way for three years, and experience has confirmed the superior fitness of the plan. It is not its least recommendation, that it possesses in a degree the cha- racter of labour-saving machinery. A very important and extensive labour-making portion ot the operations in the vineyard during the summer, is the attention required by the growing shoots to keep them properly trained up. They grow and extend themselves so rapidly, that where the strips of the trellis are lath, or where poles are used to support vines, unless very closely watched, they fall down in every direction, in a very unsightly and injurious manner. Here the wire being small, the tendrils or claspers eagerly and firmly attach themselves to it, and thus work for themselves in probably two-thirds of the instances where the attention of the vigneron would otherwise be required. There is a free access afforded to the sun and air, and no hold for the wind to strain the frame,” &c. Mr. Bonsall says farther, “1 shall not enter into a minute description of my manner of pruning, but may just say, that after the vines have attained a full capacity for production, (say five years from the cut- ting,) my view is to prepare them for bearing an average of fifty clusters to each, leaving several shoots of from three to five joints on a vine for this purpose. When fresh pruned, they will not be more than four feet high, at their greatest age.” 95 GRAPE. 83 Dr. R. T. Underhill, of New-York, has a vineyard at Croton Point, near Sing Sing, where, after having sunk thousands of dollars in attempting to raise the most cele- brated foreign varieties, he abandoned the project as vision- ary, and commenced planting the Isabella Grape in 1832, and the Catawba in 1835. Mr. Underhill has now upward of twenty acres of these grapes, chiefly of the former, un- der the most successful cultivation. He says that the Isa- bella Grape ripens two or three weeks earlier than the Ca- tawba, and that these two varieties are, in his estimation, the best adapted for general purposes; the former yielding with him a more valuable crop than any other with which he is ac- quainted. He says that the quality of this fruit has improved very much within a few years, the clusters and berries being much larger and sweeter; and that they are capable of still greater improvement by high cultivation. The following extracts are from Dr. Underhill’s commu- nication to the editor of the ‘ Cultivator,’ published January 28th, 1843: “In this latitude, (south of the highlands of the Hudson,) I find that the Isabella Grape ripens quite as well when planted in a level field, protected from the north and west winds by woods or hedges, as on declivities. Several of my vineyards are thus located, and, as far as I can perceive, the fruit ripens at about the same time, and is of the same quality as those planted on steep side-hills. I think, how- ever, that north of the highlands, side-hills would be prefer- able. To prepare the ground for a vineyard, the best way is to turn over the whole of the surface soil from fifteen to eighteen inches in depth, early in the spring, by ploughing twice in the same furrow. This will place the richest part of the soil in a position where it will give the greatest sup- ply of nourishment to the vines. Few vineyards in this country have been prepared in this way; but the cost is so small and the advantages so great, that it should be done wherever there are no rocks or large stones to prevent it.’ 64 GRAPE. The following observations on the destruction of the Rose- bug, were also published in the ‘ Cultivator,’ Sept. 13, 1842: “‘T observed that when the rose-bugs first appeared on the vines, they were so feeble as to be unable to fly even for a few yards. Having surmounted all other difficulties, 1 was determined not to be defeated in the vineyard cultivation of the Grape by this insect, and consequently resorted to the following means for its destruction. I directed my men to take each a cup, with a little water in it, and go through the vineyards every morning, removing every bug from the vines; and this was done quite rapidly by passing the cup under the leaf and merely touching it, when the bugs in- stantly dropped, and were received in the cup containing the water. When the cup was full, they were soon destroyed by pressing the foot upon them on a hard surface. This plan was persevered in every morning as long as a bug could be found, and was attended with such success, that they have given me very little trouble since. I also tried plough- ing my vineyards just before winter set in, so as to expose to the weather the insect in the larve state, which will cettainly destroy the young tribe that have not descended below the reach of the plough. For two years past the number has been so small that I have omitted this process for their destruction —R. T: Underhill.” Although the man of taste and capacity for improving on the improvements of others, may have gleaned ideas from the above extracts, sufficient to enable him to cultivate the vine in his own garden, it may be necessary to direct the reader’s attention to the different methods of cultivating this excellent fruit in varied situations. A vine may be trained horizontally under the coping of a close fence or wall, to a great distance, and the borders in an east, southeast, and southern aspect of large gardens, may be furnished with a variety of sorts, which will ripen in great perfection, without encumbering the borders; or the plants may be trained low, like currant bushes; in GRAPE. 85 which case, three or more shoots, eighteen inches or two feet in length, may diverge from the stem near the ground, to supply young wood annually for bearing. The summer pruning consists in removing shoots which have no fruit, or are not required for the succeeding season; and in topping fruit-bearing shoots, and also those for succeeding years, when inconveniently long and straggling. For as, by this mode, the shoots destined to bear are all cut into three or four eyes at the winter pruning, no inconvenience arises from their throwing out laterals near the extremities, which top- ping will generally cause them to do. In training vines as standards, the single stem at the bot- tom is not allowed to exceed six or eight inches in height, and from this two or three shoots are trained, or tied to a single stake of three or four feet in length. These shoots bear each two or three bunches, within a foot or eighteen inches of the ground, and they are annually succeeded by others which spring from their base, that is, from the crown or top of the dwarf main stem. This is the mode practised in the North of France and in Germany; in the South of France and Italy, the base or main stem is often higher, and furnished with side shoots, in order to afford a great supply of bearing wood, which is tied to one or more poles of greater height. The summer pruning, in this case, is nearly the same as in the last. In the winter pruning, the wood that has borne is cut out, and the new wood shortened, in cold situations, to three or four eyes, and in warmer places, to six or eight eyes. Nicol observes, that “Most of the summer pruning of vines may be performed with the fingers, without a knife, the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed off, and those to be shortened, being little, are readily pinched asunder.” After selecting the shoots to be trained for the production of a crop next season, and others necessary for filling the trellis from the bottom, which shoots should generally be laid in at ihe distance of a foot or fifteen inches from each other, 8 R6 GRAPE. rub off all the others tnat have no clusters, and shorten those that have, at one joint above the uppermost cluster. Tor this purpose, go over the plants every three or four days till all the shoots in fruit have shown their clusters, at the same time rubbing off any water shoots that may rise from the wood. Train in the shoots to be retained, as they advance. If there be an under trellis, on which to train the summer shoots, they may, when six or eight feet in length, or when the Grapes are swelling, be let down to it, that the fruit may enjoy the full air and light as it advances toward maturity. Such of these shoots as issue from the bottom, and are to be shortened in the winter pruning to a few eyes, merely for the production of wood to fill the trellis, may be stopped when they have grown to the length of four or five feet. Others that are intended to be cut down to about two yards, and which issue at different heights, may be stopped when they have run three yards, or ten feet, less or more accord- ing to their strength. And those intended to be cut at or near the top of the trellis, should be trained a yard or two down the back, or a trellis may be placed so as to form an arbour; or they may be placed to run right or left a few feet on the uppermost wire. The stubs or shoots on which the clusters are placed will probably push again after being stopped, if the plants be vigorous. If so, stop them again and again; but after the fruit are half grown, they will seldom spring. Observe to divest the shoots, in training, of all laterals as they appear, except the uppermost on each, in order to provide against accidents, as hinted before, in training the newly-planted vines. When these shoots are stopped, as directed above, they will push again. Allow the lateral that pushes, to run a few joints, and then shorten it back to one, and so on as it pushes, until it stops entirely. When the proper shoots get ripened nearly to the top, the whole may be cut back to the originally shortened part, or to one joint above it, if there GRAPE. 87 be reason to fear that the uppermost bud of the proper shoot will start. Divest the plants of all damped and decayed leaves as they appear, as such will sometimes occur in continued hazy weather, and be particularly cautious not to injure the leaf that accompanies the bunch, for if that is lost, the fruit will be of littlé value. “ Hvery one of penetration and discernment,” Nicol ob- serves, “will admit the utility of thinning the berries on bunches of Grapes, in order that they may have room to swell fully; and, farther, that of supporting the shoulders of such clusters of the large growing kinds as hang loosely, and require to be suspended to the trellis or branches, in order to prevent the bad effects of damp or mouldiness in very moist seasons. Of these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy, Royal Muscadine, Raisin, St. Peter’s, Syrian, Tokay, and others, should have their shoulders suspended to the trellis, or to the branches, by strands of fresh matting, when the berries are about the size of garden peas. At the same time, the clusters should be regularly thinned out with narrow pointed scissors, to the extent of from a fourth to a third part of the berries. The other close-growing kinds, as the Frontignacs, Muscats, &c., should likewise be moderately thinned, observing to thin out the small seedless berries only of the Muscadine, Sweet Water, and flame-coloured Tokay. In this manner, handsome bunches and full-swelled berries may be obtained; but more so, if the clusters or over-bur- dened plants be also moderately thinned away. Indeed, cutting off the clusters, to a certain extent, of plants over- loaded, and pushing weak wood, are the only means by which to cause them to produce shoots fit to bear fruit next year; and this should be duly attended to, so long as the future welfare of the plants is a matter of importance.” The preceding observations may be considered as falling short of what may be expected on the cultivation of so im- portant a fruit as the Grape; but it is introduced into this 88 MULBERRY. book only as a dessert fruit. The modes of training in vineyards and vineries are alike suited to the garden. Low training may be practised in borders or hedge rows, in large gardens; and high training in sheltered situations, on high trellises or arbours. By proper management, the vine may be elevated to the middle story of a house by a single stem, and afterwards trained to a great height according to the taste of the proprietor. As the vine is often trained near buildings, an awning may be conveniently formed over the tops so as to admit of fumigating the vine with smoke from tobacco, &c., as may be necessary in the summer season; or a sort of movable tent may be made of light boards, and cheap glazed linen, or an old sail, &c., capable of covering the vine while a smoke is created underneath; this will effectually destroy such insects as may annoy the vine, and may prevent mildew and other diseases. MULBERRY. Murier. Morus. Tuere are several species of the Morus or Mulberry. The white kind is commonly cultivated for its leaves to feed silkworms, though in some parts of. Spain, and in Persia, they are said to prefer the Black Mulberry. In China, it appears that both sorts are grown for this purpose. The most esteemed variety of the white is grown in Italy, and especially in Lombardy, with vigorous shoots, and much larger leaves than the other. The Morus multicaulis is cul- tivated in many parts of France, and is by some preferred to all other varieties, It is said that a less quantity of foliage from this variety will satisfy the silkworms. The late An- drew Parmentier, Esq., was the means of introducing seve- ral choice varieties from that country ; and our nurserymen in general, have of late years, turned their attention to the MULBERRY. 89 cultivation of such as are best adapted to silkworms, which are sold at moderate prices. In France, the white Mulberry is grown as pollard Elms are in England. In Lombardy, it is grown in low, marshy ground. In China, it is also grown in moist, loamy soil, and both there and in the East Indies, as low bushes, and the plantations rooted up and renewed every three or four years. In many parts, when the leaves are wanted for the worms, they are stripped off the young shoots, which are left naked on the tree; in other places, the shoots are cut off, which is not so injurious to the tree, while the points of the shoots, as well as the leaves, are eaten by the worms. The plants are sometimes raised from seed, and one ounce of seed will produce five thousand trees, if sown in rich loamy soil in the latter end of April, or early in May; but the young plants will require protection the first winter ; they are more commonly propagated by layers and cuttings, put down inthe spring. The Italian variety is frequently grafted on seedling stocks of the common sort, in order to preserve it from degenerating. In the Hast Indies, the plants are raised from cuttings, three or four of which are placed together where they are finally to remain. But Mulberry trees are valuable for their fruit; and in England the black and red kinds are in great esteem, and much cultivated. The fruit of the white Mulberry is white, and less acid than that of the black species. The black is naturally a stronger tree than the other; the fruit is of a dark, blackish red, and of an agreeable aromatic and acid flavour. The red Mulberry has black shoots, rougher leaves than the black Mulberry, and a dark, reddish fruit, longer than the common sort, and of a very pleasant taste. The fruit of the yellow Mulberry is very sweet and wholesome, but not much eaten, excepting by birds; the timber, how- ever, is valuable, from its abounding in a slightly glutinous milk of a sulphurous colour, and is known in Europe under the name of fustic wood, for dying a yellow colour. # 90 MULBERRY. In Russia, the fruit of the Morus tartarica is eaten fresh, conserved, or dried; a wine and a spirit are also made from them, but the berries are said to be of an insipid taste. All the species of the Morus are remarkable for puttmg out their leaves late, so that when they appear, gardeners may safely set out their green-house plants, taking it for granted that all danger from frost is over; from this circum- stance, plantations of Mulberry trees may be made in this couutry in the spring of the year with greater safety. The Mulberry produces its fruit chiefly on little shoots of the same year, which arise on last year’s wood and on spurs from the two-year-old wood; in both stages, mostly at the ends of the shoots and the branches. In pruning, thin out irregular crossing branches, but never shorten the young wood, on which fruit is produced. If any of the dwarfish kinds are cultivated as espaliers for their fruits, cut so as to bring in a partial succession of new wood every year, and a complete succession once in two years, taking the old bar- ren wood out, as may be necessary. As the blossom buds cannot be readily distinguished from others in the winter, the best period for pruning is when the blossoms first become visible in the spring. There is another genus of plants, known as the Paper Mulberry, which is very ornamental, called Broussonetia papyrifera; though a low tree, it has vigorous shoots, fur- nished with two large leaves; the fruit, which is small, is surrounded with long purple hairs, changing to a black pur- ple colour when ripe, and full of juice. ‘In China and Japan, it is cultivated for the sake of the young shoots, from the bark of which the inhabitants of the Eastern countries make paper. The bark being separated from the wood, is steeped in water, the former making the whitest and best paper. The bark is next slowly boiled, then washed, and afterward put upon a wooden table, and beat into a pulp. This pulp being put in water, separates like grains of meal. An infusion of rice, and the root of manhtot, are next added NECTARINE. 91 to it. From the liquor so prepared, the sheets of paper are poured out one by one, and when pressed the operation is finished.” . “‘ The juice of this tree is sufficiently tenacious to be used in China as a glue, in gilding either leather or paper. The finest and whitest cloth worn by the principal people at Otaheite, and in the Sandwich Islands, is made of the bark of this tree. The cloth of the Bread Fruit tree is inferior in whiteness and softness, and worn chiefly by the common people.” NECTARINE. Pecuera Fruir tissk, ov Broenons. Amygdalus nectarina. Tne varieties of this fruit resemble the Peach in every respect, except that the skin is perfectly smooth, of a waxen appearance, and the flesh generally more firm; although of the same genus as the Peach, which is so plentiful in this country, the fruit of the Nectarine is quite a rarity, and sel- dom appears in our markets. There are seventy-two varie- ties cultivated in the Horticultural Garden of London under name. It is generally allowed that their failure here is occasioned by the attacks of insects. The most efficacious method that I have heard of for securing any thing like a crop of Nec- tarines, is to fumigate the trees in the evening, when the air is calm and serene, at the season when the fruit is ready to set. Tobacco is the most effectual antidote for these insects ; but a friend of mine collected a quantity of salt hay that had been used for his Spinach the preceding winter; with this he created a smoke, first on one side of his plantation, and afterward on the other, by which means he obtained a good supply of fruit. Our enterprising horticulturist, Mr. ‘W. Shaw, has succeeded in gathering fine fruit, by pursuing the English plan, namely, in training his trees against a close G2 NECTARINE. fence; and it has been discovered by others, that the Nec- tarine, like the Grape vine, will yield best in sheltered situ- ations. That eminent horticulturist, Mr. David Thomas, observes, that “A vast quantity of fruit is annually destroyed by the Curculio, which causes the Plum, Apricot, and Nec- tarine prematurely to drop from the tree. To prevent this loss, let the tree, after the blossoms fall, be frequently shaken by a cord connected with a swinging door, or with a work- ing pump-handle, &c.; or let the bugs be jarred from the tree and killed. Or keep geese enough in the fruit garden to devour all the damaged fruit as it falls. We know that this last method is infallible.” As some may object to shaking or jarring fruit trees, for fear of disturbing the fruit, such are here reminded, that if the blossoms set more fruit than can be supported, it will not come to full perfection, and the trees may be injured in their future bearing; for these reasons, when fruit sets too thick, it should be thinned in an early stage of its growth. The Nectarine, as also the Peach tree, is subject to mjury by an insect different from the Curculio species, which feeds on the sap beneath the bark, principally near the surface of the earth; but if not checked, will commit ravages on the trunk and root, so as eventually to destroy the tree. The egg is supposed to be first deposited in the upper part of the tree ; and in the months of June and July, it becomes a very small maggot, which drops to the ground, and approaches the tree near the surface. Ifthe ground be kept clear around the roots, as it ought always to be, the worm can readily be detected by a small speck of gum, which appears on the tree after it has made its entrance, which gumminess will increase im quantity as it progresses; but if the trees are thoroughly examined about once a week or ten days, and the gum, wherever found, removed by means of a small knife or pointed wire, the worm may be at once defeated from mak- ing any havoc on the trees. An orchard of several acres may be kept free from worms by going over it a few times. NECTARINE. 93 After a shower of raiu is a good time, as the gum can then be more easily discovered; and when it is removed, the wound will soon heal up, and the danger is over, provided the ground be kept cultivated around the trees, and the collar, or that part from which emanate the main roots, be near the surface. This is an important precaution, and should be attended to at the time of transplanting all descriptions of trees and smaller plants; because deep planting prevents the essential circulation of the juices of plants in their regular and natural courses, and, consequently, causes disease and premature death ; and it must be admitted, that from the circumstance of this fruit being generally raised on standard trees, and in a light soil, our cultivators are apt to plant too deep; and thus act contrary to sound judgment and philosophy, with a view to save the trouble and expense of staking or otherwise supporting their newly-planted trees, which precaution is absolutely necessary to their preservation, even in less tem- pestuous climates, and in stiff as well as in light soil. Saltpetre dissolved in the proportion of one pound to five gallons of water, and applied round the stems and roots of trees, as recommended for plants in general, is, in my opin- ion, one of the best remedies for the destruction of various kinds of insects; it is, moreover, allowed by modern and learned physiologists to contain the most essential nutriment to all descriptions of trees or smaller plants, when judiciously used. Other remedies are recommended to be applied for the destruction of these insects around fruit trees, besides those previously mentioned ; as, dissolved potash, coal tar, sul- phur and lime-mortar mixed, vinegar, soapsuds, &c. Culture, upon correct principles, will, however, in general operate not only as a radical cure, but as a preventive to all defects in trees and plants; which, to be healthy and productive, should be so managed that the sap and nutrimental juices -can circulate through every pore which nature has designed for their perpetuity. (See article on the choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery; also, article Peach.) 94 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NECTARINES. The Nectarine is generally budded on stocks of the same species, or on the Peach or Plum, two or three years old. Knight recommends growing Almond stocks for the finer kinds of Nectarines and Apricots, as likely to prevent the mildew, and as being allied to the Peach. Dubreuil recom- mends a Plum stock for clayey soils, and the Almond for such as are light, chalky, or sandy. The same opinion is held by the Montreal gardeners. The Flemish nurserymen graft both the Peach and Nectarine on the Myrabella Plum, a very small cherry-shaped fruit. The budding may be performed in July or August, in the side of the stock, which will, if properly managed, shoot the following spring, and attain the length of three or four feet the first year. After the budded trees have ripened their furst year’s shoots, they may either be planted where they are to remain, or retained in the nursery for two, three, or four years, till in a bearing state. Whether the plants be removed into the orchard at a year old, or remain in the nursery, the first shoots from the bud must be headed down in a judicious manner, in order to promote the most desirable form. In annual pruning, thin out superfluous branches and dry wood, and shorten the bearing shoots. Nectarines may be trained to a close fence, or wall, in private gardens; in which case, such plants should be chosen as are budded low. (See article Apricot.) SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NECTARINES. FREESTONE NECTARINES. Aromatic. A middle sized, rather globular fruit, skin pale straw colour with deep red or brown next the sun; flesh pale straw, but red at the stone; juice of a rich vinous flavour; ripe early in August. Boston, Lewis’s Seedling. A fine native variety, raised by Mr. Lewis, of Boston; fruit of medium size; heart-shaped; colour bright yellow, mottled with red ; flesh yellow, firm, pleasant and peculiar in flavour ; ripe It September. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NECTARINES. 95 Exruce, Claremont, Temple's, Vermash of some collections. One of the very best and most high flavoured Nectarines ; fruit medium size, of a green or pale yellow colour, with violet cheek; pulp whitish, melting, very juicy, rich and high flavoured; ripens ently: in August. Farrcuitp’s Earzy. Fruit very early, but small; of globular shape, yellow in the shade, deep scarlet next the sun ; flesh yellow, not juicy, but well flavoured; ripe in July and August. Perxins’s SEEDLING. A very large beautiful Nectarine, raised by S. G. Perkins, from the Boston, Lewis’s Seedling ; the form is globular; colour bright yellow, with dark crimson on one side; flesh tender, juicy and high flavoured ; ripe in September. Pirmaston’s OrancE. A good sized globular, almost heart-shaped fruit, of a rich yellow colour, but dark crimson or purple next the sun ; flesh golden yellow, but red next the stone, from which it separates ; it is melting, juicy, saccharine and high flavoured; ripe in August. Scartet. A middle sized fruit, somewhat ovate, of a beautiful scarlet colour next the sun, and pale red on the shaded side; the flesh separates from the stone, and is at maturity in August. VermasH, True Vermash. This fruit is rather of small size, and round- ish form, tapering towards the eye; the skin is of a very deep red colour next the sun; and of a greenish hue on the other side; ws white, rich melting and juicy; at maturity in August. Vio.et, Violette Hative, Petite Violette Hative, Lord Selsey’s Elruge, Large Scarlet. Fruit variable in size, generally medium; pale yellowish green, but darkish purple and red next the sun; flesh melting, juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in July and August. Waits, ok FLanpERS NECTARINE, New White, Emerson’s New White, Neale’s White. A middle sized, roundish, very pale fruit, slightly tinged with red next the sun; flesh tender and juicy, with a fine vinous flavour; ripe in August. CLINGSTONES, OR PAVIES. Bruenon VioLeT Musque, Brugnon Musque. Fruit large, of a deep red and yellow colour; skin very smooth; flesh yellow, but red at the stone; saccharine, vinous, musky ; at maturity in August and September. Earty Newineton, Large Black Newington, Lucombe’s Seedling. Fruit below the middle size, ovate ; skin pale green, and on the sunny side of a deep red colour; pulp super-excellent ; considered by some as the best of all Nectarines; ripe in August and September. GorpEN. Fruit medium size, of the finest orange colour, delicately and beautifully mottled with red next the sun, which gives to it a clear waxen appearance ; flesh firm, yellow, pale red at the stone, and has a poignant, rich flavour ; ripens in August and September. Rep Roman, Roman Red. A very excellent Nectarine, of large size; the skin dark red next the sun, and of a yellowish hue on the other side; flesh yellowish, but red next the stone ; it abounds with rich juice when fully ripe, in August and September. ScarRLeET NeEwinerton, Late Newington, Sion Hill. This variety is much esteemed , the fruit is large, of a beautiful red colour next the sun, and 96 GRANGE, LEMON, ETC. of a fine yellow or amber un the other side ; its quality is excellent, being rich and juicy ; eariy in September. Tawny Newineton-. Fruit large, somewhat ovate ; tawny-coloured, marbled with dull red or orange next the sun; flesh pale yellow, but red at the stone; very juicy, sugary, and of the most delicious flavour ; ripens in August and September. This, in England, is considered one of the best of clingstone Nectarines. ORANGE, LEMON, &c. OraANGER, CitronierR, ETC. Curlrus. Norwirustanpine this fruit, and also the Lemon, Lime, &c., are attainable at all seasons of the year, by supplies from our Southern States, the West Indies, and the South of Europe, yet the plants are entitled to our notice on ac- count of their being so easily cultivated, and from their affording an ornament by exhibiting their fruit the whole of the year.) “ The Orange, as well as others of the same genus, are generally cultivated as green-house plants, but may be kept in a light room throughout our severe winters, provided the temperature is not suffered to be below the freezing point, 32 degrees. Its recommendations are, handsome evergreen, shining, tree-like form; most odoriferous flowers, and bril- liant, fragrant, and delicious fruits, which succeed each other perpetually, and are not unfrequently seen on the tree at the same time, in two or three stages of growth. A work has recently been published at Paris, edited by Messrs. Risso and Poiteau, which contains engravings and descrip- tions of one hundred and sixty-nine varieties. They are arranged as sweet Oranges, of which they describe 42 sorts ; bitter and sour Oranges, 32 sorts; Bergamots, 6 sorts; Limes, 8 sorts; Shaddocks, 6 sorts; Lumes, 12 sorts; Le- mons, 46 sorts; Citrons, 17 sorts. All the species of Citrus endure the open air at Nice, Genoa, and Naples; but at Florence and Milan, and often ORANGE, LEMON, ETC. 97 at Rome, they require protection during the winter, and are generally planted in conservatories and sheds. In England, these trees have been cultivated since 1620; they are gene- rally planted in conservatories. Loudon says that in the south of Devonshire, and particularly at Saltcombe, may be seen, in a few gardens, Orange trees that have withstood the winter in the open air upward of a hundred years. The fruit is as large and fine as any from Portugal. Trees raised from seed, and inoculated on the spot, are found to bear the cold better than trees imported. At Nuneham, near Oxford, are some fine old trees, plant- ed under a movable case, sheltered by a north wall. In summer, the case is removed, and the ground turfed over, so that the whole resembles a native Orange grove. The au- thor of this work, being a native of Abingdon, which is within three miles of the Earl of Harcourt’s estate, has had frequent opportunities of tasting the fruit, which he believes to be equal to that of warmer climates. At Woodhall, near Hamilton, trees of all the species of Citrus are trained against the back walls of forcing-houses, and produce large crops of fruit. Any of the varieties of the Orange, Lemon, Lime, Shad- dock, Citron, &c., may be grafted or budded on stocks of the common Orange or Lemon; but the seed of Shaddocks and Citrons produce the strongest stocks ; and on these may be grafted such kinds as may be needed for a conservatory. The most suitable time for budding is July and August; but this operation may be performed at any time when the sap is in motion. The directions for the management of green- house plants, apply also to this family of plants, to which I refer my readers. A friend of mine, who is a native of Rouen, in Normandy, informs me, that a Mr. Valee, of that city, succeeds in clearing about twelve thousand francs per annum from the flowers of Orange trees, which are distilled for essences, &e. 98 PEACH. PEACH. Precuer. Amygdalus Persica. It is generally considered that the Peach is of Persian origin. In Media, it is deemed unwholesome; but when planted in Egypt, becomes pulpy, delicious, and salubrious. It has been cultivated, time immemorial, in most parts of Asia; when it was introduced into Greece, is uncertain. The best Peaches in Europe are supposed to be grown in Italy, on standards. The list of Peaches in the London Catalogue, contains about two hundred and fifty-names, fifty of which are deno- minated American Peaches. Several attempts have been made to class the varieties of Peaches and Nectarines by the leaf and flower, as well as the fruit. Mr. Robertson, a nur- seryman at Kilkenny, has founded his arrangement on the glands of the leaves; and Mr. George Lindley, of London, has, in a peculiarly distinct manner, arranged no fewer than one hundred and fifty-five sorts of Peaches and Nectarines in well-defined divisions and sections. There are various instances on record, (Hort. Trans. vol. i. p. 103,) of both fruits growing on the same tree, even on the same branch; and one case has occurred of a single fruit partaking of the nature of both. The French consider them as one fruit, arranging them in four divisions; the Peches, or freestone Peaches; the Peches lisses, or freestone Nectarines, or free- stone Peaches; the Pavies, or clingstone Peaches; and the Brognons, or Nectarines, or clingstone smooth Peaches. Although this fruit will thrive in any sweet, pulverized soil that is properly prepared, a rich sandy loam is the most suitable. Next to the selection and preparation of a suitable soil, a choice of good healthy trees is of the utmost import ance. The seed for stocks should be selected from the vigorous growing young, or middle-aged healthy trees; and the buds should be taken from some of the choicest fruit- PREACH. 99 bearing trees that can be found. Let the stocks be fairly tested before they are budded, and if any infection exist in. the stocks, or in the vicinity of where the choice of buds may fall, reject them if you wish to rear a healthy progeny; as more depends upon these particular points than many are aware of. In this country, the Peach is generally budded on stocks of its own kind; but in England it is often budded on damask Plum stocks, and some of the more delicate sorts on Apricot stocks, or old Apricot trees cut down; or on seedling Peaches, Almonds, or Nectarines. (See article Nectarine.) Cobbett says, ‘“‘ There are thousands of Peach trees in England and France that are fifty years old, and that are still in vigorous fruitfulness.” He attributes the swift decay of the Peach tree here to their being grafted on stocks of their kind. Mr. Michael Floy, of the Harlem Nursery, in a note, page 364 of the American edition of Lindley’s Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden, edited by him, makes the follow- ing observations on this subject, which he says are the result of thirty years’ experience as a nurseryman in the vicinity of New-York: “In this country Peaches are generally budded on Peach stocks. Their growth is very rapid, and they will form a tree large enough to transplant from the nursery, the first and second year after budding; but notwithstanding the rapid growth of our Peaches, and their coming to maturity so early, with but litle care and trouble, it must at the same time be admitted that they too often come to decay with almost the same celerity. A question here will naturally arise on this subject, what can be done to remedy this? I answer, firsé, I] think the Peach stock is defective ; it is not sufficiently strong and lasting to make a permanent tree; the roots are soft and delicate, very liable to rot in cold heavy ground, particularly if suffered to stand in a sod, or where the ground is not kept clean, dry, and manured every 1690 PEACH. season. Second/y. Supposing that the trees are planted in a warm free soil, (which is the proper soil for the Peach,) they are liable to the attacks of the worm, which eats into their roots, and barks the trees all round, until they com- pletely destroy them. No better method of destroying these worms has been discovered, than simply digging round the trees, and examining the infested plants, and where gum is seen oozing out, there the worm may be generally found and destroyed. “T think an effectual remedy against this intruder may be found, by budding Peaches aud Nectarines on the common bitter ALMonpD Srockx. The worm does not like this stock. Peaches will take on it, and grow nearly as free as on the common Peach stock. Thirdly. The Peach stock causes the Peaches and Nectarines to grow too rapidly, making very strong shoots, these producing secondary or lateral shoots; and the fruit of the following summer is produced on the top of these lateral shoots, instead of being produced on the principal or first shoots; this causes naked wood at the bottom, and a straggling, unsightly tree, whose branches being heavy at the top with the fruit, are broken down by high winds. Jfourthly. In addition to all this, the trees are of late years subject to what has been deemed a disease called the yellows, from the circumstance of the trees having a yellow and sickly appearance. Much curious philosophy has been spent on this subject without arriving at any satis- factory conclusion.” Mr. Floy, after discovering that the Almond stock is susceptible of injury from our Northern winters in extreme cold weather, farther recommends the Plum stock in cold latitudes, and the Almond for our Southern States. Hear him: ‘“The Plum stock is undoubtedly the best for Peaches and Nectarines in the -Norihern and Eastern States, but especially for open dwarfs or espaliers, for which I give the following reasons: First. The Plum stock prevents the PEACH, 10! too rapid growth of the shoots, and causes the principals to bear the fruit the following season, instead of producing lateral shoots the same season, and causing the tree to be more dwarf; the branches strong and fruitful to the bottom of the shoot, thereby having more fruit in a smaller compass. Secondly. It makes harder and less pithy wood, and enables it the better to withstand the cold; and this may be easily proved by cutting the branches of each: the shoot on the Plum stock will be twice as hard and firm as the one on the Peach stock; but, Thirdly, and the most important reason is, that the Plum ceases to send up its sap early in autumn, causing the Peach to perfect its wood before the cold weather sets In.” As the failure of this fruit of late years has elicited con- siderable discussion and observation, which increases in interest annually, I will offer an exposition of my views on the subject, by a comparison between vegetable and animal matter, which I humbly conceive bear a striking analogy to each other. Ifthe reader should deem my arguments vision- ary, or speculative, | would remind him that the grave im- portance of the subject fully justifies this or any other attempt at elucidation. Having, in article Nectarine, shown the error of deep planting all descriptions of trees and plants, I would here observe, that a tree brought into a state of disease, by which the circulation of its nutrimental juices is impeded, and its bark injured, is very similarly situated to a timber post in- serted in the soil; which every one knows will rot between earth and air, however sound its other parts may be. In venturing a comparison between vegetable and animal matter, I would first refer the reader to article Chestnut, where I have shown that a chestnut tree has been known to live over a thousand years; and that its timber, cut in proper season, is supposed to be in durability commensurate with the age of the growing tree. It is also recorded in history, that animal subjects preserved on the Egyptian principle, g* 102 PEACH. have been known to keep as long as the most durable tim- ber; while daily experience shows, that corrupt animal and vegetable substances, not only become a prey to the most noxious insects and reptiles, but will generate them in incal- culable numbers. It is also evident, that a tree deprived of its functions or means of growing luxuriantly, is in a similar situation to a diseased animal. If disease be not checked before the juices of the tree become putrid, it will not only die, but will contaminate the earth in which it is planted, to the destruc- tion of its neighbouring inmates of the garden or field. All experienced nurserymen admit this to be the case with dis- eased Peach trees, and some have actually abandoned their Peach orchards, and chosen fresh ground for new planta- tions. It is precisely the same with smaller vegetable plants. A diseased Cabbage, for instance, by its excremental and cor- rupt juices being spent in the ground, will render the culti- vation of the same or allied species a casualty ; and daily observation teacheth, that young and thrifty plants often fall a prey to worms and reptiles which were generated by a previous crop. It is, moreover, evident that all those enemies of the veget- able family feed on the same descriptions of vegetable mat- ter which first generated them; hence: the Peach insects feed on its fruit in embryo, as well as in a state at, aud even beyond, perfection; the Cabbage worms prey on plants of the same genera or species; and I have no doubt but the cotton worms prefer the same description of vegetable mat- ter which gave them birth, and that when these insects and reptiles cannot obtain the parts which are the most palatable to them, or congenial to their nature, they will feed upon diseased trees, plants, or any other matter which contain similar juices or nutriment. I again repeat, that the best security against their depredations is health and soundness. A good sound healthy tree, planted and cultivated upon cor- PEACH. 103 rect principles, may be justly considered as invulnerable to the attacks of insects and reptiles, as any species of healthy animal creature in existence. As Ihave been more familiar with the cultivation of veget- ables than fruits, I would state farther my views relative to the Cabbage tribe. On New-York Island, im the vicinity of the city, it is customary with gardeners to cut their Cabbages gradually as they are required for market, and often to leave their roots standing; these by some are ploughed under, where they not only feed, but generate their peculiar species of insects. Some gardeners take their roots and leaves to the cattle yard or dung heap, and return them back to the garden the ensuing season in the shape of manure. Asa consequence of such practice, good Cabbages are very sel- dom obtained, even after a routine of other crops, for two or three years. With a view to illustrate the evil of deep planting, I would observe farther, that when Cabbage plants are transplanted in proper season and on good fresh soil, they generally prove uniformly good; whereas, if it should happen, as it some- time does for want of suitable weather, that the plants can- not be transplanted until they get crooked and overgrown, so as to require deep planting to support them in the soil, such plants, like diseased Peach trees, devay first in the bark, between earth and air, and then, from being deprived of a natural circulation of the vegetable juices, die, and dis- charge their putrid matter in the earth, to the destruction of such other plants as may be inserted in their stead. I have frequently known a land of Cabbage plants filled up half a dozen times, and the crop at last scarcely worth gathering, whereas, could the plants have been set out while dwarfish, and inserted their proper depth in the ground, the cultivator would have been rewarded a hundred fold. I dislike tautology, but cannot avoid repeating my humble opinion, that deep planting and injudicious culture are the causes of most of the diseases and failures of fruit trees; and 104 PEACH. in this way I account for Peaches being less plentiful than they were when left almost to nature, which was the case, I am informed, in the beginning of the present century. That this malpractice in horticulture is very general, the most superficial observer may discover, by comparing the thrifty growth of those trees scattered by nature in our highways and byways with many of those aided by the art of man. If any of my readers should require proof of my assertions, I can show them from the window of the room where this article is being written, scores of living, or rather dying evi- dences of the evil of deep planting. All the varieties of the Peach produce their fruit upon the young wood of a year old, the blossom buds rising immedi- ately from the eyes of the shoots. The same shoots seldom bear after the first year, except on some casual small spurs on the two years’ wood, which is not to be counted upon. Hence the trees are to be pruned as bearing entirely on the shoots of the preceding year, and a full supply of regular grown shoots must be retained for successional bearers. Cut out the redundant shoots, and all decayed and dead wood, and reduce some of the former bearers, cutting the most naked quite away. A Peach Orchard may be planted at any time after the bud is established, until the trees are three or four years old, which may be placed from fifteen to twenty feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees. The dwarf kinds may be introduced into the kitchen garden, and trained against fences, as directed for the Apricot, or as espaliers, or dwarf standards. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 105 SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. FREESTONE PEACHES. Astor. Anexcellent variety, originating in the city of New-York ; the fruit is above medium size; skin pale yellow, with red cheek ; flesh melt- ing and pleasant flavoured ; juice sweet and plentiful; ripe the latter end ~ of August and early in September. Brrrs’s Rep Rarerive, Middletown late Red Rareripe. Fruit very large, of oblong shape; skin nearly white, with a red cheek; flesh firm, juicy, and high flavoured. This variety originated with Joseph Beers, of Middletown, New-Jersey ; it ripens there from the middle to the end of September, and is represented as a good market fruit. BELLE DE Vitry, Admirable Tardive, Bellis, Beauty of Vitry. A large fruit, of fine red colour next the sun, on the opposite side a yellowish white; flesh white, stained with red at the stone; firm, juicy, sweet, vinous and excellent ; ripe early in September. BeLLEcGRADE, Galande, Violette Hative, Noire de Montrewil. Smooth Leaved Royal George of some. The tree is vigorous and productive ; fruit above medium size, globular ; skin greenish yellow, and on the sunny side rich deep red, with dark purple streaks ; flesh pale yellow, very melt- ing, saccharine and juicy; a first rate fruit, early in Septemlier. BuonaparrTe. A fine early variety, introduced by Joseph Buonaparte, and recommended by Caleb R. Smith, of Burlington, New-Jersey, as being the best market fruit known at that place; its colour is red, mottled with yellow; flesh melting ; juice sweet and delicious, in August. BREvOoRT’s SEEDI ING MELTER, Brevoort’s Morris. A superior Peach, raised by Henry Brevoort, Esq., of New-York; skin of a dingy white colour, with red cheek; flesh white, firm, rich, and sugary ; ripe by the middle of August. CotumsBra. Fruit of medium size; skin rough and thin; colour dull red ; flesh yellow, fibrous, similar to a pineapple, juicy and rich. It is supposed that this Peach originated with Mr. Cox. It is a singular variety. Coo.epee’s Favourite, Covledge’s early Red Rareripe. A large hand- some globular fruit; skin red, tinged with crimson ; flesh very melting, Juicy, and of delicious flavour, in August. The tree is vigorous and very productive. Crawrorp’s Earty Mexocoron, Early Crawford. Fruit large, oblong; skin yellow and red; flesh yellow, juicy, sweet, with an agreeable acidity. it originated with Mr. Crawford, Middletown, New-Jersey. The tree isa great bearer, and the fruit is considered one of the most marketable varie- ties, in August and September. Crawrorp’s Late Manacatune. Fruit very large, round; skin yel- low and red; flesh yellow, sweet, juicy, and excellent. It is highly esti- mated at Middletown for its productiveness and adaptation for market; in September and October. DovsitE Montaene, Sion, Eearly Double Mountain, Montauban. A beautiful and excellent Peach of middle size; skin greenish white, but soft red, marbled with a deeper red next the sun; flesh white and melting ; juice plentiful and highly flavoured ; ripe in August. 106 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES, Earuy Orance, Orange Freestone, Yellow Rareripe, Yellow Malacaton, Golden Rareripe, Early Yellow. Fruit under a medium size, inclining to the oval shape, apex full, with a small tip; skin greenish yellow; flesh a fine yellow ; juice rich and sweet, but not plentiful; ripe in August and September. There are several varieties under the same name, some of which are inferior to the true Orange Peach. Harty RoyaLt Georcre. Red Magdalen of Prince. A superior variety, of medium size, and rather globular form ; skin yellow, with red cheek; flesh melting and delicious; in August. There are several varieties culti- vated under this name, differently described. Eastsurn’s Cuoice. Fruit large, nearly round ; skin pale yellow, with a red blush ; flesh yellowish white ; juice exceedingly pleasant and spright- ly ; in September and October. The tree is represented as hardy, luxuri- ant and vigorous, by the Editor of Hoffy’s Orchardists’ Companion of Philadelphia, from whence this description is taken. Emperor or Russia, Serrated Leaf, New Cut-Leaved Unique. The fruit of this species is deeply cleft, one half of it projecting considerably beyond the other; the skin is downy, of a brownish yellow and red colour; flesh melting ; juice sweet and delicious; towards the end of August. This sort was found by Mr. Floy, in New-Jersey, 1809, and all the stones ef this fruit are said to produce plants with jagged leaves. GEORGE THE FourtTH. An excellent Peach, of medium size and globu- lar shape; of pale yellow colour in the shade, and dark red next the sun; flesh yellow, but red at the stone, from which it separates ; a fruit of very superior flavour when at maturity, which is early in September. It origin- ated in the garden of Mr. Gill, Broad-street, New-York. GREEN Nutmec, Early Anne, Avant Blanche. This early variety is said to have originated in Berkshire, England. The fruit is small; its colour yellowish green ; its pulp melting, juicy, of very pleasant flavour, and ripens in July and August. Murray’s Early Anne is a variety raised from the seed of this. It is esteemed for its early maturity. Grossr Mrenonne, Velowtee de Merlet, Grimwood’s Royal George, Large French Mignonne, Vineuse, according to Lindley ; and the following syno- nymes are added by Kenrick: Belle Beaute, Smooth-leaved Royal George, Royal Souverain, Pourpre de Normandie, Royal Kensington, Early Vine- yard, Transparent, and Morris’s Red Rareripe. One of the most beautiful and delicious varieties in cultivation. Fruit large, depressed, hollow at the summit, with a deepish sature ; skin rather downy, of rich deep red, thickly mottled on a yellowish ground; flesh pale yellow, rayed with red at the stone ; melting, juicy, and of a rich vinous flavour, when im perfection, which is early in September. Heatu Freestone, Kenrick’s Heath. This variety was first obtained from the late General Heath, of Roxbury, near Boston. The fruit is very large, oblong and beautiful, frequently weighing half a pound ; colour pale yellowish green, with crimson or violet next the sun; its flesh is melting, juicy, rich, vinous, and agreeably acid; ripens in September and October. Horrman’s Pounn, Morrison’s Pownd, Hoffman's Favourite. This fruit is by some called the Morrissania, from its having been first obtained by Mr. Floy from Governeur Morris; but it originated with Martin Hoff- man, Ksq., of New-York. The fruit is very large; skin brownish white DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 107 and red; flesh yellow, firm, very juicy and delicious, parting from the stone; greatly estecemed from its ripening late in September and October. | LaTE ApDmiraBLeE, Royale, Royal, Bourdine. Teton de Venus of Prince and Downing. Fruit large, roundish, inclining to oblong; sature deeply impressed along one side, having the flesh swelling boldly and equally on both sides, with a slight impression on the summit; skin downy, of pale green colour, streaked with dull tawny red; flesh white, delicate, melting, juicy and high flavoured ; a magnificent Peach, ripening in September. Maura, Peche Multe, Belle de Paris, Multe de Normandie, Italian Peach. Fruit above the medium size; colour pale yellowish green, marbled with purplish red; flesh yellow, juicy, rich, vinous, and of superior flavour; ripens at the end of August. MADELEINE DE Covrson, Madeleine Rouge, Rowge Paysanne, Red Magdalen. Royal George, and New Royal Charlotte of some collections. An excellent fruit, of large size; colour yellow and red; ripens at the end of August; flesh firm, white, but red at the stone; sugary and rich. Monstrous Lemon, Largest Lemon. ‘This variety was first discovered in the garden of Mr. Tiebout, now Union Place; the fruit is of the largest size, and in the gardens of two persons in New-York, has weighed seven- teen ounces, as stated by Mr. Prince, who says that the tree requires a sheltered situation, and that the fruit is late in ripening ; October. Morris's Rep FREESTONE, Red Rareripe. Grosse Mignonne, and Royal Kensington according to Prince. Fruit nearly round, of large size, apex a little sunken; skin greenish yellow, with red cheek; flesh delicious and melting ; a first rate variety ; ripe toward the end of August. Morris’s Wuite FREEsToNE, White Rareripe, Luscious White Rare- ripe, Philadelphia Freestone. Lady Ann Stewart of Downing and Prince. Fruit large, and inclining to the oval form, sature even, but not deep ; apex a little sunken; skin white or rather yellowish; flesh white, juicy, rich and sweet; ripe in September. NeIL’s EaRLy PuRPLE, Early Purple of Miller, Johnson’s Purple Avant, Padley’s Early Purple, Veritable Pourpree Hative, Peche du Vin. One of the most beautiful of Peaches, of medium size ; skin yellow, but on the sunny side of a fine deep red and purplish colour; it ripens by the middle of August; flesh melting, juicy, with a rich vinous flavour ; an excellent fruit. New Royat CuHantottres, Queen Charlotte, New Early Purple, Kew Early Purple. A delicious Peach, rather above medium size; skin pale greenish white, with deep red next the sun ; flesh greenish white, rich and agreeable; ripein Aucust. Nosiesse, Mellish’s Favourile. Vanguard of Prince and Winter. The tree is of a vigorous growth, and very productive; fruit large, somewhat oval, of a pale red colour, marbled with different shades ; pulp juicy, rich, and melting when at maturity, which is in August and September. PRESIDENT. This variety originated at Bedford, on Long Island. It is a rich, melting, juicy fruit, of large size, roundish, with a shallow sature; skin very downy, dull red next the sun, pale yellowish green in the shade; the surface covered with small red dots 3 a first rate Peach; ripe in September. Princr’s Lare YELLow Freestone. A_ beautiful fruit, of a greenish yellow colour, tinged with red ; flesh firm and rich. A pattially ripe speci- 108 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. men of this variety was exhibited by Mr. Prince in the Horticultural room of the American Institute, October 24th, 1843. RARERIPE YELLOW, Yellow and Red Rareripe, Red Velvet, Large Yellow Nutmeg. Murie Antoinette of some. This variety is large; skin yellow and red; flesh firm, rich and delicious, in August and September. It is considered one of the most valuable market varieties. Rep Curstx MacacatuneE, Hogs’s Mulacotan, Alberge Incomparable, Lady Gallatin, Probyn Peach. ‘The fruit of this variety is of large size and oval form; its colour is yellow, with a red cheek on the sunny side; the flesh is also yellow, melting, rich, juicy, and luscious. There is another variety of this fruit, which originated with Mr. Polls, of New-York, said to be very productive, and of excellent quality ; ripens in September. Rostnson Crusor, Early Robinson Crusoe. Fruit large, round, and handsome; skin pale red, marbled with dark red; flesh juicy, sweet, and delicious; ripe in September. ‘The stone from which this variety was raised, by Dr. Coxe. of Philadelphia, was brought by Lieutenant Coxe from the far-famed island of Alexander Selkirk, or Robinson Crusoe. Smock FrxrE, Smock’s Freestone. An esteemed market variety, at Mid- dletown, New-Jersey, where it originated, in Mr. Smock’s orchard. Some specimens of the fruit have measured twelve inches in circumference. It is of oblong shape; skin pale yellow and dark red; flesh juicy, a little acid, and very palatable ; in September and October. Sweer Water, Early Sweet Water. American Nutmeg of Prince. This variety is said to have originated at Flushing; its form is round, and its colour whitish green, with a red blush at maturity, which is early in August. The flesh is very tender, melting, rich and juicy. Teton DE Venus. Royale of some collections. There are two or three varieties bearing this name; the fruit of the best variety is large, globular, of a pale yellowish green colour, marbled with red ; flesh greenish yellow, but red at the stone; a delicious flavoured Peach ; ripe in September. Van Zanpt’s Surers, Waxen Rareripe. This variety originated with Mr. Van Zandt, of Flushing; its form is oval; its skin smooth, somewhat mottled, and of a beautiful waxen appearance; flesh melting, and of excel- lent flavour ; in August and September. Watter’s Earzy. Fruit large; colour white in the shade, and red next the sun; flesh red, very juicy and delicious. It is considered one of the most productive and early Peaches cultivated at Middletown, New- Jersey, where it ripens about the middle of August. Wasuineton PEAcH, Boyce Peach, Washington Freestone. Early Rose of some. - 40 Beans, Kidney Dwarf; one quart of seed will plant from 350 to 400 hills, or from 230 to 260 feet of row, - - 2 - - 42 170 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. Beans Pole, or Running ; one quart of Lima, or large running Beans NAR: will plant about 300 hills, or 250 feet of row, - - - - 43 Beet; one ounce may be allotted for every perch, or pole, - - 45 Borecole, or Kale, an ounce will produce 4000 plants, - - 46 Broccoli; one ounce is sufficient for 4000 plants, - - . - 60 Cauliflower ; an ounce of this seed will produce 4000 plants, - 53 Cabbage; one ounce will produce 4000 plants, - - - - 55 Cardoon Artichoke; an ounce will produce 600 plants, - - 53 Carrot ; half an ounce may be allotted for every pole, - ° - 59 Celery ; an ounce of seed will produce 10,000 plants, - - - 60 Corn Salad, or Fetticus ; one ounce of seed will sow about two poles of ground, - - - - - - - - - : 63 Cucumber ; one ounce of seed is sufficient for 200 hills, e - 65 Egg Plant ; an ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 67 Endive, or Succory ; an ounce will yield 5000 plants, - - - 68 Leek; one ounce of seed may be allotted for 3000 plants, 71 Lettuce ; an ounce will produce, say 10,000 plants, - - ° 713 Melon ; one ounce of seed will produce from 120 to 150 hills, - 74 Melon, Water; an ounce will, plant from 40 to 50 hills, ° - 15 Onion; one ounce of seed may be allotted for every pole, - - 718 Parsley ; two ounces may be allowed for three perches, - - 80 Parsnip ; two ounces may be allotted for three perches, - - 8] Pepper; one ounce of seed will produce 3000 plants, - - - 82 Peas ; one quart will plant from 150 to 200 feet of row, - - 84 Potatoes ; from twelve to sixteen bushels may be allotted for an acre, 85 Potatoes, Sweet; half a peck of seed, properly managed, will produce 15 bushels, ° - - - - - - = - 86 Pumpkin ; one quart of field Pumpkin will plant from 500 to 600 hills, and one ounce of the finest kinds will plant from 50 to 80 hills, 87 Radish; four ounces will do for every three perches, if sown broad- cast, and about half the quantity if sown in drills, - - - 89 Salsify ; two ounces of this seed will plant three perches, - - 93 Shallots; four bushels of bulbs will plant forty poles, - - - 9S Spinach ; if cultivated in drills, four ounces will plant five perches of land. If broadcast, it will require double the quantity, - 2 99 Squash ; an ounce of seed will plant from 50 to 100 hills, according to sorts and size, - = - - - - - - 100 Tomato ; one ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 101 Turnip ; one pound of seed is sufficient for an acre of land, - 105 QUANTITY OF GRASS SEED SUITABLE TO THE ACRE. Clover, sown alone, - - 12 pounds. Orchard Grass, - - = - 2 bushels. Timothy, ------ 1 peck. Rye Grass, - - - - = = 2 bushels, Herds Grass, - - - - = 1 bushel. '| Lucerne, - - - - = = = 8 pounds. For a pasture for grazing, the following mixtures of seed would be tound excellent, viz : 6 pounds of clover seed, 1 peck of herds grass, and half a bushel of Orchard grass seed—or 6 pounds clover, half a bushel of rye grass, and half a bushel of tall meadow oat seed. 171 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. “The first edition of “The Young Gardener’s Assistant’ has been favourably noticed in France :—“ One of the leading articles of the Annales de P Institute Royal Horticole de Fromont, is a long notice of “ The Young Gardener’s Assistant,” by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, speaks of the little work in very commendable terms.” —New York Farmer. Extract of a review of this work in the Magazine of Horticulture, Botany, &c., published by Hovey & Co., Boston: “The work is written in plain language, easily to be understood by the young beginner in gardening, who will find it a great help ; and its value, even to the experienced person, is by no means of an ordinary character. It IS ADAPTED TO OUR CLIMATE, and unlike compilations from English works, the novice 1s not led into disappointment by following the rules there laid down, as he generally is, when following the advice of the latter. We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, Ir 1s WORTH ALL OTHERS OF A SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN THIS COUN- TRY ; and its cheapness should place it in the hands of all new beginners.” “ No work ever published has been so studiously written to give plain useful information. By being arranged in the form of 4 catalogue, you can turn in a moment to any name you desire, where the time of sowing, depth, soil, after treatment, &c. &e., is clearly defined. The Calendarial Index, giving a summary of work for every month, is itself worth the whole price of the book, and must have cost the author much research and Jabor- ious thought. Mr. Bridgeman ismot a theorist, but is in the daily practice of what he writes, and of course well qualified to direct all beginners inthe profitable and delightful employment of cultivating .a.garden, ‘a profession and an employment for which no man is too high or too low.’ ”’—Genessee Farmer. “It will, we are persuaded, be found, what the writer intends it shall be, ‘generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the manage- ment of their own gardens.’ Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener himself, in the Bowery road, and his directions are therefore applicable to our climate—an advantage of no little moment.” —American. “Among the plants for the cultivation of which ‘The Young Gardener’s Assistant’ contains directions, are a number of culinary vegetables not generally introduced in the United States. The introduction and success- ful cultivation of useful foreign vegetables add to the resources of our country. We recently saw, for instance, in Mr. Bridgeman’s garden, seve- ral varieties of Broad Beans, Vicia faba, in a most vigorous and thrifty growth. They occupied a clayey spot of ground that was not suitable so early in the season for any other vegetable. They put forth a beautiful blossom, and would serve as an ornament for the flower garden.”—Wew York Farmer. 172 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. “BripcEMAN’sS GARDENER’s AssisTant.—The fourth edition of this: useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by the addition of several matters not contained in either of the former editions. Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist the gardener’s memory.”’—Evening Post. “No work on the subject of Kitchen,Gardening ever published in this country has met with so very general approbation and extensive sale. Mz. Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writes from his own experience.” —Daily Express. ‘That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this most innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of applause and patronage ; and such we consider ‘The Young Gardener’s Assistant.’ ”— Morning Herald. “ The work is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged in Agriculture, ‘far from the busy haunts of men,’ and to the disciples of Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seedsman, and has lived many years on both sides of the Atlantic.’—Old Countryman. “From what we gather from the tenor of Mr. Bridgeman’s book, we should suppose that he paid but little attention to the mere on dits or dic- tums of any, but that he pursued that course which his judgment pointed out; and in this particular, we value his book—leading the young gardener to depend more on his own judgment than on the rules of custom.” American Farmer. “All those who are desirous of a work on the subject of Gardening, and one which will convey the best information on the management of Hot- beds, Asparagus beds, best mode of raising all sorts of Esculent Vegetables, Pruning, Grafting and Budding Fruit Trees, Training the Vine, Preserving the Fruit from Mildew, &c., should procure this. No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with half as extensive a sale, or decided public approbation, as this valuable compendium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands the subject on which he treats. The very rapid sale of the eight former editions is quite a sufficient recommendation.”’—G. C. Thorburn, in the Evening Star. “© We can assure gardeners and farmers that they will in times and ways almost without number, be amply compensated by purchasing the book. Mr. Bridgeman bestows great labour on his productions of the pen, not only as to practical matter of fact, but to the various excellences of style particularly to clearness, and the avoiding a redundancy of words. The amount of useful information in the book constitutes its value; and all this information is adapted to this country, and its climate and its soil.’”’— American Gardener's Magazine. “From the cursory examination we have been enabled to give ‘ The Young Gardener’s Assistant,’ we should judge that it embraces a greater amount of practical information, applicable to our climate, than can be found in any similar work. The jist of fruit trees has been selected from the best authorities, both foreign and American, and is sufficiently exten- sive for any cultivator in this country.” —Newark Daily Advertiser. COMMENDATORY NOTICES. Ws “The author is an experienced practical gardener and seedsman, and his book is an excellent manual and guide for the beginner, whether old or young, in horticultural pursuits.””—Gazette. “From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appropriate heads, and the plain and practical nature of the instructions, it must be an invalua- ble manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of their own gardens.— Albany Argus. Extract of a letter from Alex’r Walsh, Esq., Lansinburg : Dear Sir :—yYou will see by the next month’s New-York Farmer, if you have not already seen by the Albany papers, that several copies of the Young Gardener’s Assistant have been given as premiums, by the State Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B.Slingerland and myself were on the com- mittee for awarding premiums, and thought your work was deserving encouragement ; and that even in this small way we might be of service in bringing it before the publicas worthy of being given as premiums.” * “Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of the subject on which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of twenty years’ experience, and we dare to say, that though submitted in an unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, than those in more costly and expensive works.” —Courier & Enquirer. ““We have undoubted authority for pronouncing this work as worth all others of a similar character that have ever been published in this country, from its adaptation to all the climates in the United States.”—_N. Y. Sun. “That this is a useful work is evident from the number of editions through which it has passed. There is scarcely any employment in life more pleasing than the cultivation of a Garden with Fruits and Flowers, Those who have the opportunity to indulge themselves in this gratification, we have no doubt will derive much assistance from this publication.”—N. Y. Tribune. “Every one that cultivates a garden should possess the work, as it is a complete dictionary for young beginners in the delightful field of Horticul- ture.”—Working Man’s Advocate. “No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with half as extensive a sale or decided approbation, as this valuable compen- dium. Mr. Bridgeman fuily understands, from practical experience, the subject on which he treats. The Calendarial Index arranges the work for every montk, and refers to the various parts of the book how to proceed. This of itself is worth the price of the whole work, and cost the author immense labour. The rapid sale of the former editions, together with the commendation of every Agricultural and Horticultural Journal in America, and several in England, is quite sufficient recommendation. The present edition both explains and fully makes known what was thought to be a gteat discovery (as great as steam) on the preservation of Fruit Trees, Plants, &c., and which, to make known to the people of these United States. an application was made to the 25th Congress to vote the supposed “The American Instifute has also awarded several copies ef this work as premiums for superior specimens of garden products 174 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. author of the discovery a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the United States—or about a million of dollars. Mr. Bridgeman has clearly proved this discovery from his long observation of the course of nature and treatment of Trees and Plants, and which only occupies some four or five pages of the work.”—N. Y. Commercial, by G. C. Thorburn. “Tur Frorisr’s Guipe.—A delightful little book, which we advise every body to purchase—at least every body that has the least liking for the pleasing occupation on which it treats.” —Courier & Enquirer. “The Florist’s Guide,” like its companion, “‘ The Young Gardener’s As- sistant,” is a useful work, which every Gardener and Florist may consult to advantage. It gives minute directions concerning plants of various spe- cies; the names and characters of each being alphabetically arranged, makes it an invaluable manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of their own gardens.” —Newark Daily Advertiser. “This is one of the best works on the subject ever published in any country : it contains Practical Directions for the Cultivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes, Herbaceous and Shrubby, Bulbous, Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including the Double Dahlia, Greenhouse Plants in Rooms, &c. &c. “A work of the above kind has been long wanted; hitherto, it required an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any kind of readable directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in rooms, &c., which, when ‘procured, were so full of botanical foppery, that plain, honest people, after wading through some three or four hundred pages, were as wise as to knowing how to set about their gardening, as when they com- menced their book. The present little work obviates all these difficulties. The author is well known as one of our practical gardeners, and it may be truly said he has rendered the ladies in particular (for whom the work was projected) an essential service; the directions for the care of the Camellia Japonica, the Double Dahlia, the sowing and treatment of Annual Flower Seed, &c., are alone worth double the price of the book; so is the Calendarial Index, which, by the untiring industry of Mr. Bridgeman, is made to include in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than is to be found in some ponderous octavos on the same subject.”—G. C- Thorburn, from the N. Y. Commercial. “The style is free, and the language appropriate ; the plan is judicious, and the contents embrace much well arranged practical information, unen- cumbered with disquisitions foreign to the object of the work. We very cheerfully recommend it to our readers as a cheap and useful book.”— Gardener’s Magazine. The Florist’s Guide has also been very favourably noticed by the editors of many other very respectable periodicals, as a work eminently calculated to promote a love for the cultivation and correct management of flowers— the study of which, remarks one of these writers, ‘refines the taste, and imparts just and ennobling views of the wise provisions of nature.” LINES SUGGESTED BY THE AWARD OF A GOLD MEDAL TO THE AUTHOR OF ‘ THE YOUNG GARDENER’S ASSISTANT, AT THE FOURTEENTH ANNUAL FAIR OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE, 1841, FoR ITS GREAT PRACTICAL UTILITY. es ° BY D. MITCHELL. EE As Vaxor’s meed, and Honor’s brightest test, T’ve seen a Mrpat on a Warrior's breast ; But to my mind it brought sad scenes to view— The sweeping carnage of red Waterloo— The orphan’s tear—the widow’s drooping head, For slaughter’d heroes on false glory’s bed— The earth made desolate, its fruits despoil’d, By mad Ambition, fearless and unfoil’d ! Not so the Token thou hast gained from Peace, Thou loy’st to see fair Nature’s wide increase, And the “ Young Gard’ner,” in thy fertile book, Finds an “ Assistant” not to be mistook ! Thine is the pleasing art to cultivate, Fill Plenty’s horn, and better man’s estate 5 Thine is the wish the Cotter’s life to mend, And teach him that a garden is his friend : That Virtue smiles—sheds blessings on his head, . And makes him happy in his humble shed, Who tends his “little patch ” in well spent hours, Amid his kitchen treasures and his flowers; That Vice ne’er mars a lovely scene like this— The consummation of the poor man’s bliss! Health, my firm friend, long life and health to thee, Health to the scions from the parent tree; Well may thy trophy be a source of pride, May they preserve it, whatsoe’r betide: >Tis a memento for imparting good, More nobly won than that for shedding blood ! AMERICAN STANDARD HORTICULTURAL BOOKS. The Young Gardener’s Assistant, containing Catalogues of Garden and Flower Seed, with Practical | Directions under each héad for the Cultivation of Culi- : nary Vegetables and Flowers; also, directions for culti- | vating Fruit Trees, Shrubs, and Vines, including the Fig, the Cranberry, and the Grape Vine. To which is | added a Calendar to each part, showing the work ne- cessary to be done in the various departments of Gar- dening each month of the year. The whole adapted to the climate of the United States. The tenth edition, improved, 504 pages octavo. By T. BRIDGEMAN, © Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist: New-York. = As each part of the above Work makes a complete volume, the Ninth Edition has been published in three separate books, with a view to accommodate the different description of cultivators. They are entitled as fullows :-— The Kitchen Gardener’s Instructor; which | contains ample directions for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables and Herbs throughout the ordinary season ; and instructions for Forcing and Forwarding Vegetables in winter and early in the spring. The Florist’s Guide, contains all the necessary information for managing a Flower Garden, and for cultivating Exotic Plants, either in a Greenhouse, or warm room. The Fruit Cultivator’s Manual, is designed to qualify the novice in Fruit Culture for the superintend- ence of his own Orchard and Fruit Garden. Each of the above Volumes contains 176 pages, 12mo. Price Fifty Cents, half bound; Sixty-two Cents, full bound. {= Booksellers and Seedsmen supplied on liberal terms, by the Author, Broadway, corner of Eighteenth Street, New-York. 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