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YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT
HOW TO CARE FOR THEM

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YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT
HOW TO CARE FOR THEM

A TREATISE ON THE CARE OF THE
DOG AND CAT IN THE HOME

BY
ROY H. SPAULDING, D.V. M.

FORMERLY RESIDENT VETERINARIAN AT THE
NEW YORK WOMEN’S LEAGUE FOR ANIMALS

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
NEW YORK :: 1921 :: LONDON

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COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY

Jun 22 i921

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

Oc. as174238

TO
ALL LOVERS OF ANIMALS

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CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
aoa OF; THE DOG | i.) fares Wath a a Ven aren
HOSE a LDN GR RGR eR Ta ce
PeRETEISe 8 NSE NGR re OF ae ee a

Wital Functions: Shey abla i ont seen ee
TN Sd Ao fue e eG Rea Mics Sy NS Wed th ae

y! 42 8 mr eee ba A meee rine ET heel feel Tee

ATS ge Oa BE RE aaa ice on er

BEES ge le jeclta ete is hea a NWety av ce aae can a e t

i fot ne DS MPV oA Behe GaN SI Re aN TL Ga! Teh

Bh WEepIcaL, CARs 2.4). CSE QE emer RIES ID She
._ Administration of hreeicines WAU ARIRADRBE Siry Pan" iopi Rass

The Use and Abuse of Medicines . . . . . . 43

Eleme “Prextimeit 20 ict es eh et ac, Soe a eared oa
Hospital ... PAREN Vi deat kr,
Hygienic Treatment me “ Sick a itd PRR Co: gt ae

III. ComMon DISEASES OF THE DoG.... . . 49
Digestive Disturbanecs .. woo AE etna aie
Diseases of the Respiratory Greens ons eee ee
Infectious Diseases . . hE CRY, Uy Caan OO SE
Diseases of the Urinary Tract SFY iaeal) a ue aR Ua NS cate a
Keneral Diseases" 007) ay) taets ied sna ete. Pas ies
Diseases of the Skin Sa Ee SR emi a EAP Ace ee
Injuries. ... SR net ane

IV. CARE AND DISEASES OF BREEDING ANtmaLs SESAME a
Breeding . ... Py iia TRU TPC CUO Salt) V2 em
Reproductive Pemebinnie AN Ta ie Ra MNPRMEOUEN TD sc sa) SE

1 ON aE AE AEN Cee TG) YAN Era 0S NE

vii

Contents

CHAPTER
V. Foops AND FEEDING
Food Requirements
Foods
Quantity
Feeding .
Water hes
VI. TRAINING THE Doc .
Training Age
VII. SELECTION OF THE DOG
Breed
Individual .
VIII. THe Cat
Its Care
Medical Care MA eae
Common Diseases of the Cat.
PCI SUDAN ue RS No

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YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT
HOW TO CARE FOR THEM

YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT
HOW TO CARE FOR THEM

CHAP T Ion t
CARE OF THE DOG

HousING

Freedom of the House.—Even in the most spa-
cious apartments the dog enjoys but limited diver-
sion, therefore he should be given access to all of
the rooms:in order that he may have the oppor-
tunity to get all the exercise possible and have as
wide a variety of surroundings as available. There
are, however, times when it is necessary to keep
him from certain parts of the house. When visi-
tors come, the dog should be forbidden the room
unless they are fond of dogs, because so many
people possess a great fear or dislike of animals.
In case of sickness the dog must not be allowed in
the patient’s room. A dog should never be left
alone in any room where a window is open unless
it is provided with a screen or other suitable pro-
tection to prevent him from going out on the sill
and perhaps falling to the ground. During meals
he should be kept from the dining room, and at no
time is it wise to leave him alone in a room where

I

Your Dog and Your Cat

food, especially meat, lies uncovered on the table,
since the animal may be tempted to steal. A puppy
ought not be confined in a room alone for any great
length of time where it is possible for him in his
play, or his desire to get out, to damage the fur-
nishings. When a dog is kept in the house it is
necessary to air the rooms more thoroughly than
otherwise. During the airing process in winter he
should be kept out of the room.

Bed.—The dog should be allotted special sleeping
quarters rather than be permitted to sleep about on
the chairs, beds and other furniture. It is especially
important that he never be allowed to sleep with the
children. His bed may consist of a small piece of
sheeting folded in several thicknesses, of a mat made
from table padding, or of any material which can
be easily washed. Although he is better without it,
a pillow may be placed under the pad if so desired,
or a box may be partially filled with cedar shavings
over which the mat may be spread. Elaborate
sleeping baskets are sold at the dog counters which,
when decorated with ribbons and covered pillows,
make very attractive quarters for the toy dogs. The
bed can be placed in any convenient corner so long
as it is not in a draft and the dog can have access
from it to his pan or paper, should he use either.
If the dog is kept in the basement his bed must be
raised from the floor in order to protect him from
dampness and cold. It will also be necessary to
provide much thicker bedding.

2

Care of the Dog

Dog House.—For the dog kept out of doors a
kennel in which he can sleep and seek shelter from
the storms and cold is very desirable. He will be
much healthier if accustomed to this exposure. If
he is intended to watch the premises he will be of
greater value when he is outside, where he can
more quickly detect the presence of strangers. The
kennel should be as small as possible to accommodate
him comfortably, so that when the weather is cold
or damp the heat generated from his body will be
sufficient to warm the quarters. It should be built
of wood, as stone or cement are too cold, and should
be so constructed that it may easily be cleaned.
When it is not necessary that the kennel be more
than four feet high, the roof can be made to lift
off, in order to facilitate cleaning. If it is desirable
to have it higher, a door can be constructed in one
end. In either case a small door should be made
for the dog’s use, only large enough to permit his
passage. This may be protected by a curtain of
heavy cloth or by a door suspended on hinges or
straps, in such a manner as to allow it to swing in
either direction, so that it will remain closed at all
times when the weather is cold, but can be fastened
open when warm. The floor should be at least three
inches from the ground and slant slightly to the
front so that water will drain off.

The sleeping box should be raised from the floor
eight or ten inches. If made full width of the ken-
nel its construction will be much simpler. The

3

Your Dog and Your Cat

bottom can be placed on two cleats nailed to either
wall. The front is made to slide between two cleats
fastened perpendicular to and in front of the front
edge of the bottom of the box. In the front a hole
should be made of sufficient size to permit the pass-
age of the dog. For winter use a cover can be placed
over the box, completely inclosing it except for the
small opening in the front. Cedar shavings make
the best bedding. They may be placed in the box
in abundant quantities, and each time after a floor
cleaning handfuls of shavings can be scattered
about. The shavings will help absorb the moisture
and their odor is of benefit in keeping away fleas.

Cleaning.—The mat on which the dog sleeps
should be washed at least twice a week and if neces-
sary, every day. If he uses a pillow this should be
aired and shaken up every day. His sleeping box
or basket should be sponged off with a disinfectant
solution occasionally. The cedar shavings can be
changed once a week. The dog house should have
a thorough scrubbing, followed by a good disin-
fecting, every week or two. When fleas are present
the cleaning must be more vigorous.

Feeding.—The dog should have a regular place
for his meals as well as a regular feeding time.
The kitchen is the best place for this. He positively
should not be fed in the dining room during the
family meals. The pan or plate on which his meals
are served should be removed, with any food which
is left, within a half hour after feeding. Water

4

Care of the Dog

may be put down for him at this time. The dishes
should be washed after each meal.

Toilet.—For small house dogs, who attend to their
functions indoors, a regular place must be provided
for this purpose. A pan or paper, conveniently lo-
cated in either the kitchen or the bathroom, is the
most satisfactory arrangement. This must, at all
times, be accessible and, for this reason, the kitchen
makes the better place. An ordinary newspaper
will suffice and, as soon as it has been used, can be
thrown out. A pan filled with either sand or saw-
dust is often preferred but is harder to clean
than the newspaper, and entails more expense.
Where this method is used, the sand or sawdust
must be thrown out daily, the pan washed and re-
filled. When the dog uses the roof, a box of sand
or ashes may be placed there for him. This can be
changed once or twice a week and will save consid-
erable labor in cleaning the roof. For the dog who
has a yard to run in, a small area of ground may
be spaded up for him. This can be respaded from
time to time.

EXERCISE

The maintenance of health depends upon the
proper digestion and assimilation of the food ma-
terial and the free and thorough elimination of the
waste products. The assimilated nutritive material
is either expended as energy or stored up in the
system as fat. If this process takes place with too

5

Your Dog and Your Cat

great rapidity or if an excessive quantity is accumu-
lated, the system becomes sluggish. Asa result, the
elimination of waste products is retarded and diges-
tion becomes inactive. When in this condition the
animal becomes readily susceptible to disease. If on
the other hand the nutritive material is expended in
energy such a condition will not develop. Thus to
avoid it in inactive animals, exercise must be sup-
plied. To provide opportunity for exercise is the
hardest part of the care of the apartment-house dog.
In the city the street is about the only available place
where the dog can exercise.
Street—Harness.—Where the dog is to be taken
into the street for his exercise he should be fur-
nished with a harness or collar, a leader and a
muzzle. A harness which fits over the shoulders
and chest is much more comfortable than a collar,
though not as safe. It is suitable only for the
small dogs because the large, strong dogs, such as
the collie, pull so hard that the harness, which fits
over the shoulders like the collar on a horse, does
not give sufficient purchase to control the animal
should he desire to get away. For these larger
dogs a collar fastened about the neck is much
safer. As the dog pulls, the pressure of the collar
on his throat tends to shut off his wind and forces
him to slow up. The disadvantage of this is that
the constant irritation caused by such pressure on a
tender throat will induce a cough which oftentimes
becomes chronic, if the irritation is continued. The

6

Care of the Dog

collar and the harness both are not needed at the
same time. They are not only a source of discom-
fort to the dog, but also very unbecoming, especially
when they are out of proportion to the size of the
animal and gayly bedecked with brass.

Muzgzle—In New York and almost all large
cities there are laws requiring the use of muzzles
while the dog is on the street. Although this law
works a great hardship on the dog it is necessary
and wise for the protection of the public. The real
object of the law is to control the spread of rabies
which is disseminated by the bite of a rabid dog.
There are many dogs which, because they are natu-
rally vicious and in the habit of biting, should be
muzzled. Some dogs, although generally peaceful
and harmless, might be provoked to bite if annoyed
or frightened by strangers. It is to the owner’s ad-
vantage to comply with the law because if his dog
should happen to snap at or bite anyone and the
matter was reported to the police, as it always is if
a physician treats the wound, the animal would be -
kept in quarantine as a case of suspected rabies,
thereby causing a great deal of trouble and annoy-
ance.

Blanket—In cold weather it is often advisable
to supply the toys and very short-haired dogs with
a blanket or sweater. The blanket is, of course,
only for street use and should not be worn in the
house. Once the dog has become accustomed to it
in the fall, it must be worn continually during the

7

Your Dog and Your Cat

winter, and in the spring as much care and judg-
ment is necessary in leaving it off as we use in dis-
carding our overcoats. Where the blanket is worn
intermittently the dog is in more danger of con-
tracting a cold than if he did not have a blanket at
all. Leather-covered storm blankets are of excep-
tional value for use on very cold and stormy days.

Manners.—When the dog is taken out on the
street, he should be taught to walk either directly
behind or ahead of his companion, rather than
allowed to romp at will. It is very annoying to
pedestrians to have to get out of the way of a
headstrong dog, and as some people do not like dogs
or are afraid of them, it is unfair to impose their
presence on them. At some time during the exer-
cise period the dog can be taken to a quiet street
and there allowed to romp and play for a while.
When it is possible to take him to the park the dog
will get much more enjoyment out of his exercise.
While on the street the dog should not be allowed
to come in contact with other dogs, principally be-
cause of the danger of contracting disease; and,
secondly, because of the great desire of canines to
fight. Never let children pet the dog unless he is
securely muzzled, for they are often unmeaningly
rough and might provoke the dog to bite. Great
care should be taken that the dog does not pick up
foreign substances, such as stones, sticks, bones and
bits of food. The playful puppy is very prone to
this habit and should be closely watched. So many

8

Care of the Dog

dogs are injured by automobiles that every possible
precaution should be taken to prevent the dog from
being subjected to such accidents.

After the dog has been allowed to run until he
has become heated, he must not be permitted to
stand in a cold wind. On cold rainy days it is
better not to take the dog farther than is necessary
for him to clean himself and, on returning home his
feet should be washed and his whole body rubbed
briskly with towels until thoroughly dry. A dog
must not be taken out directly after his bath, except
in midsummer.

Roof.—Oftentimes the apartment is so situated
that the roof is easily accessible. In such cases this
makes a desirable place for exercising the dog.
Many dogs may be trained to go to the roof by
themselves and, by so doing, they enjoy far greater
freedom. Some dogs will play by themselves, de-
riving much benefit therefrom, but as a rule, those
that are closely confined soon lose the desire to
exercise unless encouraged. In the excitement of
playing, the dog might jump or fall off the roof
unless the inclosure is of sufficient height to prevent.
During the summertime, it gets very hot on the city
roof so that it is impossible for the dog to stay
there for any length of time.

Yard.—A dog that is allowed the freedom of a
yard will require but little attention after he has
become accustomed to conditions. If the proper
selection of breed has been made the dog will ac-

9

Your Dog and Your Cat

quire what exercise he needs within the limits of
the yard. That is, if any of the smaller dogs or
those of Airedale size are chosen, the ordinary yard
will be large enough. But, if a collie, Russian wolf-
hound, or any of the larger and more active breeds
are selected, the yard will be much too small for
their needs.

A strong robust animal will soon be acclimated
to the exposure and can be left out at all times
except during a very hard storm. If the dog lives
in his kennel he will be much hardier than the one
who spends a part or most of his time in the house.
When the dog is first put in the yard great care
must be taken, for unless he is used to like exposure
he may easily contract a cold. Until he has become
hardened he should not be left out for long at a
time, unless the weather is warm. In case he is
caught out in a cold storm he must be taken into
the house and given a hot bath, thoroughly dried
and warmed. When the yard is not inclosed by a
fence considerable freedom may be acquired if the
dog is properly fastened with a chain. <A very
efficient way is to stretch a wire between two build-
ings or posts, having a ring on it so that it can
slide back and forth. The dog’s chain can be
fastened to this ring. When the wire is attached
to a post, a stick or nail should be fastened to the
wire a sufficient distance from the post to prevent
the dog from winding his chain about it. The
wire should always be fastened so that the dog can

Io

Care of the Dog

move to his kennel or other shelter and into the
shade.

Amount of Exercise.—The amount of exercise
required by the dog depends directly upon his size
and temperament and indirectly on the amount and
character of the food which he consumes. Since
the amount of exercise which can be given the ani-
mal is determined by existing conditions, the dog
should be selected whose exercise needs will con-
form to these conditions and his food should be
regulated accordingly. Small dogs, such as the
Pekingese and Pomeranian, need but little out-of-
door exercise, a walk of five blocks once or twice
daily being sufficient. The small terriers of the
type of the Boston will require from twenty to
forty blocks daily. The Airedale, Collie, and St.
Bernard are so large and active that their freedom
should not be curbed by a leader. The English Bull,
while a large animal, is of such build as to be re-
- stricted in movement. If he were to attempt a long
hard run he would soon find himself short of wind
and exhausted.

However, no set of rules can be laid down for
exercising any dog or breed of dogs. It must be
remembered that few house dogs receive enough
exercise and every owner should aim to get his
dog out at every possible opportunity. The opinion
of the owner as to the amount of exercise his dog
receives varies according to his own desire to walk.
Some people think that a five block walk is a great

It

Your Dog and Your Cat

deal, while others feel that twenty or thirty blocks
is very little. Occasionally a person will go to the
park and sit on a bench with the dog in his lap
and afterward tell of the wonderful exercise the
dog receives.

The dog that gets enough exercise and not too
much to eat will retain his activity and graceful
lines even to old age, while the underexercised and
overfed dog grows fat and lazy. Therefore, the
best guide is the condition of the dog. Should he
begin to take on flesh, cut down his food and get
him out more, stimulate a desire to play and keep
him at it till he tires. A rubber ball, a stick, or a
strap will help to amuse him and make him take
the much needed exercise. In selecting a ball for
this purpose, make sure that it is of sufficient size
to prevent the dog’s swallowing it in his excitement.

Regularity.—Regular exercise is just as impor-
tant as the amount. A five mile walk once a week
is not as beneficial as five blocks a day. Occasional
long walks instead of invigorating the animal ex-
haust him and it is several days before he over-
comes the effects. A regular daily walk will tend
to keep him in uniform condition. When used to
this regular exercise he can easily take the longer
jaunt without bad results.

Frequency.—The frequency with which it is
necessary to take the dog out during the day will
depend on whether he uses a pan or paper in the
house for cleaning himself. In case he does, he

I2

Care of the Dog

need be taken out only at the will of his owner,
providing he gets sufficient exercise in one trip.
The dog that goes into the street to attend to him-
self must be given frequent chances to do so. Fail-
ure in this will result either in an unclean dog or an
unhealthy one. Retention of the urine tends to
cause a paralytic condition of the bladder which will
evidence itself by dribbling of the urine or in-
voluntary passages. The dog should be accustomed
to a routine which should not be varied from day
to day by any great space of time. He should be
taken out the first thing in the morning and the last
thing at night in order to shorten the night interval
as much as possible. Besides this he ought to have
at least two more chances to go out. The morning
trip should come before breakfast, as soon as pos-
sible after he starts moving about, for that will
induce the desire to urinate after his night’s sleep.
His exercise periods are best given a considerable
time after he has eaten in order that digestion may
be partially, if not entirely, completed. There
should be no reason for the well dog to be unclean
with four chances to care for himself in twenty-
four hours.

VITAL FUNCTIONS

Relation to Health.—There is no more important
duty connected with the care of the dog than giving
proper attention to his necessary habits, and yet it
is the most often neglected. The maintenance of

13

Your Dog and Your Cat

health depends as much on the elimination of the
waste products as on the intake of food. Almost
always the first symptom following a stoppage of
the bowels or a retention of urine is a loss of ap-
petite, while on the other hand the movements con-
tinue for days after the animal stops taking food.
Daily observations of the passages are very essen-
tial, and a mental note of their occurrence may be
carried from day to day. In case of no movement
of either the bowels or urine for forty-eight hours,
steps should be taken to locate the cause and
remedy the condition. If an abnormal stool occurs
for more than two passages it will require treat-
ment. In case of a sick animal it is more advisable
to keep a written record of the frequency and char-
acter of the evacuations as well as the condition of
the appetite. Such a record will be of invaluable
aid to the doctor should it be necessary to seek his
help.

Feces—Composition.—The feces are composed
of the indigestible parts of the food together with
the by-products of digestion. The process of di-
gestion consists in breaking up and assimilating the
food material and absorbing from the mass that
which is of value to the body. As a result of this
procedure many poisonous gases and acids are
formed. If these are not eliminated they act as
poisons to the body.

The normal stool is cylindrical in shape, varying
in size with the dog. It is a congealed mass, of

14

Care of the Dog

firm moist consistency, with little or no odor. Ab-
normal stools are significant of disease and are
designated according to their characteristics. A
hard, dry passage is called a constipated stool; a
thin watery movement is called a watery stool, or
diarrhea. When the passage is like a thick, sticky
gruel it is termed a pasty stool. A passage consist-
ing of a jelly-like mass which may be accompanied
with blood, is mucus from the intestinal coat, and
when the blood is present it is spoken of as bloody
mucus.

Color.—The color of the movement is altered by
the character of the food consumed. When meat
predominates, the color is black, cereals produce a
brownish stool, and vegetables a slatish-gray move-
ment. Bones cause a hard, dry, crumbly stool of
grayish-yellow color. Watery stools are usually
black but may be reddish-brown, due to the pres-
ence of blood, or light yellow when the liver is in-
volved. A formed movement may be specked with
blood.

Character—The character of the movement
should be noted at each evacuation in order to keep
a check on the dog’s condition. Any deviation from
normal is a sign of intestinal trouble and should re-
ceive prompt attention. This is especially impor-
tant in puppies and weak dogs since intestinal dis-
orders progress with astonishing rapidity and
quickly lower the vitality of the animal.

Frequency of Movement.—The frequency of the

T5

Your Dog and Your Cat

movement is dependent on the quantity and kind
of food the animal is fed. When the diet consists
solely of raw, chopped beef, the amount of fecal
matter is very slight, because the greater part of
the meat is digested and absorbed. Vegetables con-
tain a large percentage of fiber which is of no
food value and is eliminated, making a very bulky
and frequent stool. Dogs should have at least one
good movement a day but they may have two or
three or even more, depending on the character
of the food. In cases of diarrhea there may be as
many as forty passages a day. Some animals
habitually have but one evacuation in. from two to
five days but such a condition is absolutely wrong
and requires attention.

Defecation.—Passage of a normal stool should
take place with greatest ease. Straining with a
normal passage is evidence of rectal trouble. When
the dog is constipated he will strain for some time
before dislodging the stool. In case of diarrhea,
straining occurs after the movement, due to irrita-
tion of the bowel.

Urine—Composition.—The urine originates as
such in the kidneys, being taken from the blood by
a process of filtration. It consists of the waste
products of tissue activity which have been collected
by the circulating blood. It is of thin, watery con-
sistency, pale yellow in color, and has a slight odor.
The quantity of the urine varies with the size of
the dog and the nature of the diet. In medium-

16

Care of the Dog

sized dogs there is from one-half to one and a half
pints of urine a day. The frequency of urination
depends upon the number of opportunities provided.
The well-trained house dog will hold his water for
twenty-four hours, if necessary. Dogs having their
freedom will urinate as frequently as a post presents
itself for use.

Character and Quantity—The character and
quantity of the urine is changed in many diseases,
but for all ordinary purposes the regular passage is
all that need be kept in mind. The abnormal con-
ditions which must be recognized and attended to
are: Frequent attempts at urination followed only
by the passage of a few drops; urine of a dark,
dirty brown color; frequent passage of large quan-
tities of urine; and absolute stoppage of urination.
When the urine is passed but once or twice a day
the odor is often increased and its consistency be-
comes thick and viscid. Such urine frequently
stains.

COAT

The proper care of the coat is of great impor-
tance since the beauty of the animal is in so many
breeds dependent on the condition of the hair.
Many people are attracted by long-haired dogs
solely because of their beautiful luxuriant coats.
Needless to say, in these types a ragged, scrawny
coat detracts much from the value of the dog. The
condition of the coat is indicative of the physical

17

Your Dog and Your Cat

condition of the dog and is evidence of the care it
receives. In certain debilitating diseases the hair
becomes coarse, dry, rough, and lusterless. In pup-
pies suffering from digestive disturbances, worms,
rickets, and distemper, the coat becomes unthrifty.
This condition is seen in old dogs affected with
malignant tumors, malnutrition, and chronic febrile
diseases. In all skin diseases the hair loses its tone
and starts to fall out. In healthy animals if the
hair is given proper attention it is bright, glossy,
soft, and full of tone, but if neglected or improperly
cared for, it becomes dull, harsh and brittle.

Description of the Coats.—There are three types
of coats, determined by the length of the hair and
its texture. These are: (1) The short-haired or
smooth-coated dogs, such as the Boston Terrier;
(2) the wire-haired, such as the Airedale, and the
long-haired, such as the Collie.

Short-haired Coat.—This is made up of short,
straight hairs of equal length which lie smoothly
on the surface of the skin. In texture it may be
either fine or coarse, but never as rough and harsh
as the wire hair. The finer and shorter the hair
the greater is its gloss. Such a coat requires a
minimum amount of care to keep it in shape. Ex-
cept where the color is white it does not need
frequent bathing because the dirt can be easily re-
moved by brushing. This coat does not have to be
clipped and the shedding process is short and not
especially annoying. The dog’s appearance is

18

Care of the Dog

always good and it takes but a short time to put
him in shape for showing.

Wire-haired Coat.—The comparatively short
hairs of this coat are of coarse, harsh texture and
somewhat wavy but not curly in appearance. The
hair may or may not be dense but is rough and wiry.
'As a rule, this coat is impervious to water and
bathing is difficult, consequently it has to be
cleaned largely with the brush. These dogs are
never clipped but shedding is helped by plucking
out the dead hairs.

Long-haired Coat.—There are two types of
long-haired coats, differing only with the presence
of the under coat. Setters and Spaniels have but
one long outer coat, while Collies, Chows and Pom-
eranians have in addition a short, woolly under-
growth. The long hairs are soft and silky and have
a tendency to wave or curl. The under coat con-
sists of short, stiff, curly hairs which are thickly
placed. The coat is soft, oily and glistening. It
has a habit of matting down, forming a thick pad
which serves as a protection against cold and storm.
To keep this coat in condition it is necessary to
give it frequent combing and brushing. Because of
the difficulty in removing the dirt by this method
the dog must be washed quite often, but this must
be avoided as much as possible since it is very hard
to dry the hair properly. The shedding process is
prolonged, and about the house the dogs are on this
account a great annoyance. Clipping is sometimes

TQ

Your Dog and Your Cat

desirable for the comfort of the animal but it often
spoils the coat. Skin diseases are very prevalent
in long-haired dogs.

Cieaning the Coat.—Smooth-coated dogs can be
efficiently cleaned by brushing and combing. For
this purpose an ordinary hairbrush will suffice.
The hair should first be stirred up with a vigorous
brushing and finished by smoothing it in the di-
rection it should naturally lie by alternate strokes
of the brush and the hand. The gloss may be
improved by wiping the hair with a cloth dampened
with oil.

For the wire-haired dogs a stiff brush with long
hard bristles is best. The hair can be thoroughly
cleaned by haphazard strokes of the brush in all
directions. Brushing the coat in the ordinary way
will soften the hair and make it lie smooth, a con-
dition which is not to be desired in dogs of this
type. After a thorough brushing the coat can be
given a hand mass2ge which will rough up the hair.
Oil should never be used on this coat.

Long-haired dogs must be first combed to remove
the snarls, the dead under coat, and the loose hairs.
It may then be thoroughly brushed with a heavy
stiff bristled brush and finished with a light soft
brush. The oiled cloth will add to the gloss but can-
not be used in all types. When a ruff is desired it
can be worked up with the hand or brush last.

Bathing.—Too frequent bathing is more detri-
mental to the coat than not enough. It irritates the

20

Care of the Dog

skin and causes eczema. In winter it chaps the
skin and makes it rough, cracked, and sore. It re-
moves the natural oil from the hair and leaves it
dry and harsh. It weakens the animal and paves
the way for bronchitis, pneumonia, and distemper.
White dogs must necessarily be bathed more often
than those of dark color, and lap dogs more fre-
quently than those running in the yard. The actions
of the individual determine, to a great extent, the
frequency of the bath. Some animals are naturally
clean and take great pride in keeping their coats in
fine condition, while others delight in rolling in all
the dirt to be found. The average house dog
should be washed once in two weeks, but when it is
possible to stretch the interval to a month it is
wise to do so. White dogs and toys will have to
be bathed from one to seven times a week.

Dogs should not be bathed when suffering from
any febrile disease. When there is any upset of the
intestinal tract baths should be avoided. Very thin
and emaciated dogs are in a too weakened condi-
tion to withstand bathing. Puppies, unless vigorous
and healthy, should not be washed before they are
at least four months old. Females must not be
bathed while in season.

Soap.—Any good white soap such as Ivory,
Fairy, and Marseilles may be used. If the skin is
sore it is advisable to use pure Castile soap. Scented
toilet soaps, liquid shampoo soaps, and tar soap are
allowable. Medicated soaps are not necessary and

21

Your Dog and Your Cat

are apt to irritate the skin. Strong alkaline soaps
are detrimental to the hair because of their oil
solvent action. Liquid soaps are more convenient
and cake soap may be reduced by cutting it in fine
pieces, and dissolving in boiling water.

Bath.—Puppies are usually frightened during
their first bath and will try to get away. If badly
handled, they will always fight their bath, hence
great care must be spent in getting them used to the
procedure. The dog should be placed in a dry tub
and accustomed to it. His face and feet can be
washed first, with water from a basin. As he
becomes used to the water it can be poured into
the tub, little by little, until there is sufficient for
the bath. The hair of the body can be saturated
by scooping the water up by the hand. Dogs that
like the bath may be induced to lie in the water,
or it can be poured over them with a dipper. After
the hair is saturated, the soap can be applied, the
lather being thoroughly worked through the hair to
the skin in order to dislodge all of the dirt. The
soap is then washed out and the dog thoroughly
rinsed with clear water. The first water should be
hot and the rinsing water cooled as much as the dog
is able to stand. If the bathtub is used the water
can be gradually cooled by the shower arrangement.
The first bath should be made as short as possible,
both because of the dog’s fear and the danger of
his contracting a cold.

22

Care of the Dog

Drying.—Now comes the hardest part of the job.
The thoroughness with which the dog need be dried
will depend on the kind of animal he is and the
condition of the weather. The small toys must be
absolutely dry, while in the large strong dogs only
the bulk of the water need be removed. In winter,
drying is more important than in summer. The
hair is first squeezed with the hands until all of the
water possible has been removed and then towels
are used to absorb the moisture, one after another,
as fast as they become wet. If they have been pre-
viously warmed so much the better. The rubbing
should be continued until it is impossible to dampen
a towel, then the hair may be rubbed with the hands
until the dampness disappears. The snarls are now
removed with a brush and comb and if the dog
is a long-haired toy he should be rolled in a blanket,
and if the weather is cold he may be placed by the
radiator. After he is warm, unwrap him and
make him run briskly about the house. He should
not be taken out of doors until the next day, unless
the weather is very warm. In midsummer the sun-
shine and air will help to dry his coat but some of
the more fragile dogs cannot withstand even this
exposure.

Clipping.—Clipping spoils the coat for some time.
The texture of the hair is rarely as fine and silky
after it has been cut. The hair is dull and stiff and
does not lie as smooth as before. There are, how-
ever, times when it is necessary, or at least ad-

23

Your Dog and Your Cat

visable. When the dog is affected with any serious
or extensive skin disease, the speed with which it is
cured depends upon the thoroughness of the appli-
cation of the remedies. It is almost impossible to
work an ointment or lotion into all parts of the
skin when it is covered with a heavy coating of
hair. In such conditions the hair usually comes
out before the cure is obtained, and the new growth
of hair following such a disease is of about the
same texture as it is after clipping, so there is no
particular disadvantage in removing the hair at the
beginning. Large fat dogs suffer greatly in sum-
mer if covered with a heavy coat, and it is more
humane to remove it.

The coat may be entirely removed, and in the
treatment of skin diseases this is necessary, or it
may be clipped according to the prevailing fashion
for the breed in question. The clipping should
be done by one who is experienced with the
' operation and one who is kind and careful with
the animal. Even the most skilled sometimes
scrape or cut the animal. The most impor-
tant precaution is to find a man who uses care
in keeping his instruments clean. Dirty, unwashed
clippers are frequently responsible for the spread-
ing of mange and ringworm. In case it is known
that the animal is suffering from a contagious dis-
ease the clipper should be so informed, in order that
he may exercise care in cleaning his instruments

after clipping the dog. After the hair has been
24

Care of the Dog

removed the dog should be thoroughly anointed
with an antiseptic oil and later given a good hot
bath. If there are any cuts or scratches these
should be painted with iodine and smeared with
borated vaseline.

Oiling the Hair.—In those dogs where a fine silky
coat is desired it is well to add to the natural supply
of oil, especially if the dog is frequently bathed.
Puppies are often slow in developing a coat and
oil will help its growth considerably. As a result
of skin diseases the hair is usually dry and dull,
and after clipping it is apt to be stiff and hard;
if oil is supplied it will hasten the recovery of the
coat.

There are two ways of applying the oil. It may
be liberally smeared over the body a half hour
before the bath. In case the hair is especially dry
the bath may be postponed for twenty-four hours.
This should not be done, however, in very frail
animals if the weather is cold. A better procedure
is to apply the oil after the bath when the hair is
thoroughly dry. The oil is massaged into the hair
with the hands. After the application has been made
the hair is rubbed with a dry cloth to remove the
excess. Oil may be applied in this way at frequent
intervals.

The oils to be used are: Cocoanut, olive, and
mineral oils, white or light amber vaseline. Crude
oil may be used if a good quality can be obtained.

25

Your Dog and Your Cat

Cottonseed oil is good for the hair but is quite
sticky. Sulphur may be added to the oil if the
skin is at all inclined to be red.

TEETH

Number—Puppy Teeth—There are thirty-two
puppy or milk teeth, consisting of six incisors or
front teeth, two canine or corners, and eight molars
or grinders on each jaw. ‘The process of eruption
begins at about the third week and usually extends
over a period of two weeks so that at five weeks
all of the milk teeth should be through. They
erupt rapidly, as a rule, giving no trouble.

Permanent Teeth.—The permanent set consists
of forty-two teeth arranged the same as the puppy
teeth, with the addition of four large grinders on
the upper jaw, and six on the lower. Their erup-
tion begins about the third or fourth month and is
usually completed by the time the dog is seven
months old. |

Eruption.—During the process of teething the
gums become very red and swollen and there is an
increased flow of saliva. In some cases the inflam-
mation is intense and there is a loss of appetite and
occasionally convulsions. It frequently happens that
the second incisors and canines come in before the
puppy teeth drop out and unless the latter are re-
moved they will force the new teeth to one side and
themselves become permanent, leaving the dog with

26

Care of the Dog

a double set of teeth; this is very unsightly. It is
difficult to extract these teeth, because of the long
root which is firmly imbedded in the jaw, and un-
less great care is exercised in their removal, the
tooth may be broken, leaving the root for further
trouble.

Tartar.—Ordinarily a dog’s teeth require no at-
tention, but owing to the abnormal condition under
which we are keeping the house dog to-day, much
trouble is arising from their neglect. Tartar is a
calcareous deposit on the neck of the teeth at the
border of the gums. It is a gray, yellow, or brown-
ish color and is hard and brittle in composition. On
accumulating in sufficient quantities, it pushes back
the gums, laying bare the root of the tooth, which
is thereby loosened. ‘The food particles are de-
posited about it, causing irritation and decay. The
tartar accumulation may be prevented by cleaning
the teeth occasionally with water, using cotton swabs
as a brush. Plain water, a solution of table salt,
bicarbonate of soda, or hydrogen peroxide may be
used. ‘The peroxide tends to dissolve the tartar,
making its removal much easier. Some of the tooth
powders used by man are often applied, but with
more or less difficulty. After a large deposit has
formed it must be removed by means of special in-
struments. This is a slow, tedious process and one
which the dog will surely resist. After the tartar
has been removed the gums frequently need treat-
ment, especially where they have receded. For this

27

Your Dog and Your Cat

purpose solutions of permanganate of potash or
boric acid are best.

- Toothache.—There is no reason to believe that
dogs do not suffer from toothache as well as man,
since the same pathological conditions are found in
both. Of course, the nervous mechanism of the
dog is not so acute as man’s, nevertheless, pain in
many cases can be demonstrated. A painful tooth
can be detected by tapping it gently with a metal
object; this causes a sharp throb of the jaw. The
cause of toothache is decay of the tooth, decay of
the tissue around it, or abscess formation at the
base of the root.

Decayed and Loose Teeth.—The teeth of the dog
are not so subject to decay as are the pockets in
which they are imbedded. However, in cases where
the tooth is broken, laying bare the sensitive struc-
tures to the influence of infection and food, the
tooth will commence to decay. Inflammation of
the lining of the pockets in which the teeth are
placed comes about through receding of the gums,
due to tartar formation. As the condition pro-
gresses the teeth loosen and finally fall out. Ab-
scesses may form at the base of the root, causing
the inflammation to start at that end. These ab-
scesses often break through the jaw, causing fistula.
In this condition surgical intervention is necessary
and the sooner it is applied the fewer teeth will be
lost. In toy spaniels, especially, the front teeth

28

Care of the Dog

loosen at a very early age and in spite of rigid
treatment are often lost prematurely.

Fars

The ears of dogs are subject to a very annoying
disease known as canker. The condition is a form
of eczema and is preventable, providing proper care
is given the animal. There is in the ear a normal
secretion of wax, yellow in color, thick and sticky
in consistency. Its purpose is to keep the membrane
oily and act as a protector. Under certain condi-
tions the membrane of the ear becomes inflamed
and the secretion more abundant and of a different
character. It may be thin, yellow, and sticky, or
mixed with pus, but ordinarily it is brownish black,
thin and sticky or thick and dry. The condition 1s
brought about in the same way as ordinary eczema,
but sometimes is due to a parasite like that causing
mange. If the system of the dog is out of con-
dition on account of improper feeding and lack of
exercise, if the vitality is lowered by some de-
bilitating disease, or if the wax of the ear has been
dissolved by the application of soapy water, then
the membranes of the ear become inflamed by the
presence of some irritating substance and the dis-
charge makes its appearance. Canker of the ear is
painful and irritating, and forces the dog to scratch
his ears so much that he often inflicts wounds on
the ear and adjacent skin.

29

Your Dog and Your Cat

To prevent a canker from forming it is necessary
to clean out the ear occasionally. This is best accom-
plished after the bath in order that no water may be
leftinthe ear. A swab can be made by rolling a piece
of cotton around the end of an orangewood stick
or a match. A toothpick should not be used be-
cause it is too sharp and might injure the ear. By
means of the swab the outer canal of the ear can be
cleaned of dirt, discharge, and water, and then an
antiseptic talcum powder or dry boric acid can be
dusted into the ear. In animals that have been
troubled with canker it is well to plug the ears with
cotton previous to the bath, after which the ear
may be cleaned. If the trouble has already de-
veloped the treatment may be carried out in the
same way, but if the disease does not readily re-
spond, more vigorous methods must be employed.

EYEs

The eyes of some dogs, especially toy poodles,
habitually discharge a watery secretion which stains
the hairs beneath a brownish color. Such eyes
should be washed daily with hot boric acid solu-
tion. The stain can be removed from the hair by
the application of hydrogen peroxide. The mem-
branes around the eye and sometimes the cornea of
the eye becomes inflamed in connection with a cold
or with distemper. For this the hot boric acid may
be used several times a day and in addition one or

30

Care of the Dog

two drops of a weak solution of argyrol may be
put directly into the eye. Cats when fighting
with dogs invariably aim for their eyes and usually
succeed in inflicting an injury. This may be treated
at very frequent intervals with boric acid, or a
piece of cotton saturated with the antiseptic may
be tied over the eyes until aid can be summoned.
Pekingese and Japanese Spaniels have such promi-
nent eyes that it is not a rare occurrence for the
eye to be forced out of the socket. A veterinarian
should be called as soon as possible to replace the
eye, but in the meantime it should be thoroughly
washed with cold water and then covered with a
pack of cold boric acid.

NAILS

The nails of some house pets grow much faster
than they can be worn down with the limited ex-
ercise the animals receive; consequently the nails
must be occasionally clipped. On the hind legs of
many dogs are extra toes, called dewclaws, and
since these toes do not touch the ground there is no
wear on the nails and they frequently grow so long
that they penetrate the skin on the foot-pad. This
condition is known as ingrowing nails. It is ex-
ceedingly painful and should not be allowed to
occur. The nails may be regularly filed with a nail
file or clipped with heavy shears. In cutting the
nails, one should avoid penetrating the sensitive

31

Your Dog and Your Cat

structure inside the nail. The nail can be snipped
off a little at a time until the dog shows evidence of
discomfort. Should the sensitive toe be cut it must
be dressed with some antiseptic for a period of
twelve hours.

CHAP EER, if

MEDICAL CARE

Sooner or later, the owner will have occasion to
give his dog medical attention, either on his own
initiative or following the doctor’s instructions,
therefore, a knowledge of how to proceed will be
of value to him. The successful treatment depends
almost as much on the efficiency of the care and
nursing as on the medication. It is surprising how
few people know the simplest facts concerning the
care of a sick animal.

ADMINISTRATION OF MEDICINES

There are various ways by which medicines may
be given. The most common route is by way of
the mouth.

Oral—Liquids—Many dogs object to taking
medicine, especially when it is in the form of a
liquid. With these animals it is necessary to use
force and an assistant is needed to help with the
operation. The dog should be placed on a table
in a sitting position with his back next to the as-
sistant’s abdomen. The assistant should then grasp
the forelegs of the dog with his hand of the cor-
responding side, allowing the arms to press lightly

33

Your Dog and Your Cat

along the dog’s ribs. Under such restraint the dog
will be unable to move in any direction. If only a
small quantity of liquid is to be given a spoon may
be used, but for larger quantities it is better to pro-
vide a bottle. A suitable dosing bottle may be made
by fitting a piece of rubber tubing about two inches
long over the neck of a one ounce bottle. The pur-
pose of the tubing is to avoid getting the bottle
too close to his teeth so that if he should bite he
would get the tubing rather than the bottle.
When the dose has been prepared, grasp the lip
of the dog at the extreme right hand corner of the
mouth with the left hand and pull outward and
upward in such a way as to form a pouch of the
cheek. Take the bottle in the right hand and pour
a small quantity of the liquid into the pocket. If
the dog refuses to swallow after a reasonable length
of time, pinch the nostrils so as to shut off his
wind. This will usually induce swallowing, but
the more stubborn dogs will hold out until they are
forced to cough. With this event it is necessary
to free the animal quickly and wait until he is again
breathing freely. The operation may then be re-
peated by introducing small quantities of the medi-
cine at a time until all has been taken. Beginners
are bound to lose a part of the dose in the first
attempts, but it is possible, with practice, to ad-
minister to the most obstinate, the bitterest of doses.
In the case of oil or any medicine where the dose
is elastic, more can be given to make up for the

34

Medical Care

loss, but with strong drugs it is better that the dog
get the small dose rather than take the chance of
an overdose.

Tablets—lIn giving capsules or tablets the man-
ner of holding the mouth for receiving the medi-
cine is slightly different. Grasp the upper jaw
from above with the thumb and forefinger of the
left hand and press the cheeks against the gums
just back of the corner teeth; this will force the
mouth open. The tablet is then placed as far back
on the tongue as possible and after quickly with-
drawing the hand, the mouth is tightly and rapidly
closed. The jaws are held shut to prevent the dog
from chewing or working the tablet forward with
his tongue. After he has swallowed a couple of
times examine the mouth to be sure he has the
medicine. The tablet may be put in the mouth with
the fingers, a pair of thumb forceps or a spoon.
The spoon, which is more universally used in the
house, must have a handle which curves upwards,
otherwise the tablet will slide off too easily. Grasp
the spoon by the bowl and place the tablet in the
curve of the handle. In carrying it into the mouth
press down the tongue, so that the tablet will roll
back over its thickened portion.

Powders.—Powders that are soluble can be dis-
solved in water and given with a spoon or bottle.
Insoluble powders are dusted into the mouth far
back on the tongue.

The most usual cause of failure in giving medi-

35

Your Dog and Your Cat

cine is the lack of firmness and determination on the
part of the operator. The least struggle by the dog
usually wins his release and he soon learns that he
does not have to take the dose if he only puts up
a little resistance. A dog to be desirable as a pet
should be under the control of his master for his
own good as well as his owner’s, and the man who
has been intimidated by his dog had best dispose of
him. Discipline does not entail hardship for the
dog but makes his relation with his owner much
more agreeable.

Medicine Given in the Food.—When small quan-
tities of medicine without a disagreeable taste are
to be given, and the time of administration is at the
regular meal hour, they may be put in the food,
unless it has been otherwise directed. Liquids and
powders are mixed with the food, and tablets con-
cealed in a small ball of meat. It is often desirable
to give tablets in this way at other than meal time
and there is no harm in the procedure, unless for
some reason the dog should not have food.

Special Rules Governing Medtcines.—Castor oil
is difficult and dangerous to administer. Cold oil
is thick and pours hard, but if the dose bottle con-
taining the oil is immersed in hot water for a
few minutes it will fow much more freely, and by
the way, the action will be quickened. When mixed
with syrup of buckthorn it is more pleasant to take,
but its action is more drastic. Care must be taken
in its administration that the dog does not choke

36

Medical Care

and inhale some of the oil, for if it should get into
the lungs it will set up a violent, if not fatal, pneu-
monia. After giving oil, no water or food should
be allowed for several hours since vomiting would
be induced and the action of the oil lost. Some
dogs cannot stand castor oil and immediately vomit
it. In these cases it is better to use some other
purgative, but if the oil must be administered it
should be in small and repeated doses. When giv-
ing any of the salines such as epsom salts, citrate
of magnesia, or milk of magnesia, water will aid
their action and should be given freely, unless the
dog is vomiting.

No medicines containing carbolic acid, mercury,
arsenic, or strychnine should be given, except under
a doctor’s direction, and when these or any other
strong remedies are used they should be stopped
immediately if the bowels or kidneys fail to function.

Rectal.—Treatment is given through the rectum
to relieve constipation and remove foreign bodies,
to overcome inflammation of the rectum and anus
and to administer food. The principal means are
enemas and suppositories.

Enemas.—An enema to relieve constipation is
prepared by dissolving Castile soap in hot water, to
which a little glycerin may be added. Sometimes
castor or mineral oils are used. The amount to be
given depends on the size of the dog; in toys and
puppies, one to four ounces is sufficient, while in
large dogs, as much as a pint may be given. For

37

Your Dog and Your Cat

ordinary purposes, one ounce for toys and four for
the larger dogs is the proper dose. In the case of
small amounts an infant’s rectal syringe is con-
venient to use; for larger quantities an ordinary
douche bag is best. For high enema a piece of
soft rubber tubing, six or eight inches long, may be
placed over the hard rubber tip. A glass tip should
never be used. Before the tip is inserted in the
rectum it must be lubricated with oil or vaseline.
It should not be forced, but slowly and carefully
worked into the rectum. The liquid should be
allowed to enter the rectum slowly, and the flow
stopped when the animal begins to strain. After
giving the enema the dog should be placed where
he can void the fecal matter without fear. When
the dog uses his pan or paper he can be given the
enema near it, but if he is an out-of-door dog and
conditions are such that he cannot go out, he can
be placed in the bath tub. In giving a high enema
the lower bowel should be emptied first, and then
the soft rubber tube put over the tip and worked as
far up into the bowel as possible without using force.

For feeding purposes eggs, milk, broth, meat
juice, and gruels are used. The food should be
heated to a little above body temperature and given
in small quantities and slowly, in order that they
may be retained. The rectum must first be emptied
of fecal matter with a soap enema and then washed
out with a weak salt solution—a teaspoonful of
table salt to a cup of warm water.

38

Medical Care

Suppositories.—Glycerin suppositories are used
when a normal stool is formed but retained because
of fear, pain, or stagnation of the rectum. The
regular infant’s size is adaptable for canines. In
absence of these, serviceable suppositories may be
fashioned from a piece of castile or ivory soap
about the size of a lead pencil and about one inch
in length. They should be made smooth and blunt
to facilitate insertion. If moistened with water just
before they are used their insertion will be easier.
Medicated suppositories are often used in the treat-
ment of inflammation of the rectum and anus.

Inhalations.—Although not used to any extent in
canine practice, because of the dog’s intolerance and
the difficulty of administration, inhalations are
sometimes of great value. In cases of cold in the
head, sore throat, or bronchitis, where the mem-
branes are dry and irritated, steam inhalations have
a marked soothing effect. The method of applica-
tion is simple, but difficulty is met in getting the
dog to submit. To a pint of boiling water the pre-
scribed remedy is added, placed in a dish which
will not easily tip over. The dog’s head is held
over the dish and usually a second person will have
to assist in keeping him quiet. A towel is drawn
over the dog’s nose, so as to exclude the eyes, and
is allowed to fall about the dish. The steam arising
from the dish is collected under the cone shape
of the towel and directed to the dog’s nose. If
he resists the first attempts too strongly, it will be

39

Your Dog and Your Cat

better not to force the matter, but desist till later,
when another attempt can be made.

When a dog is unconscious following a fit or a
fall, he may be quickly revived by the fumes of
aromatic spirits of ammonia. A piece of cotton
saturated with the ammonia is held to the nose. If
the dog is not breathing, artificial respiration must
be forced by pressing the chest at regular intervals.

Vaginal.—The introduction of foreign substances
into the vagina is attended with great danger and
should not be attempted by any one not thoroughly
familiar with the operation. Those who breed
dogs, however, will be frequently called upon to
douche their bitches and a knowledge of the pro-
cedure will not come amiss. All water used should
be boiled and the douche bags, pans, etc., thoroughly
cleaned. The hair and skin around the vagina must
be well washed to rid it of any dirt or discharge.
The hand of the operator must be absolutely clean.
The dog is held by an assistant with one hand on
the neck and the other under the abdomen. The
douche bag may be held by a third person or fast-
ened about two feet above the animal. Plain boiled
water may be used or table salt may be added in
the proportions of a tablespoonful to the quart.
This should be as hot as the hand can comfortably
bear. The end of the tube is lubricated with olive
oil or vaseline and inserted into the vagina from
one to two inches and a part of the solution used.
After this has been forced out, more is allowed

40

Medical Care

to run in, and the operation is continued until the
douching is completed. The forequarters of the
dog are then elevated and the abdomen massaged
backwards in order entirely to empty the vagina.
For small dogs a pint, and for larger dogs up to
two quarts, of solution are needed to cleanse the
vagina.

External Applications—For Skin Diseases.—
Medicines for treatment of skin diseases are applied
to the skin in the form of oily lotions, ointments,
watery solutions, and powders. Alcoholic solutions
were formerly used extensively and were of great
value, but, their use has been curtailed because of
the prohibitive price of alcohol.

The character of the lesion determines the kind
of an application most suitable. Moist lesions re-
quire drying drugs and dry scaly sores need oily
solutions or ointments. In acute conditions noth-
ing but the mildest of remedies should be used,
while chronic sores require the stimulation of irri-
tating remedies.

The method of application depends on the char-
acter and extent of the injury. On small acute
lesions such as burns, an ointment should be thickly
smeared over the surface, exercising care to avoid
injuring the skin. On old chronic sores the lotion
should be well rubbed in since the massage helps to
stimulate repair. Remedies strong enough to de-
stroy mange must be applied sparingly because of
the nature of the drug, but well rubbed in, for the

4I

Your Dog and Your Cat

parasites are found in the deep layers of the skin.
If the whole body surface is involved, only a por-
tion of it, say a third, should be treated at a time,
because of the danger of absorption and because
oily solutions, in particular, when applied over the
entire body surface lower the vitality of the animal.

For Underlying Conditions —Edema of the skin,
bruises of the muscles, strains of ligaments and
tendons, fracture of bones, rheumatism, and par-
alysis are treated by the application of water, lini-
ments, lotions and massage. Cold water may be
applied by bathing or by packs. The packs may
be laid over the region at frequent intervals or
bound to it. Ice bags are often used when intense
cold is desired. Heat is applied by wringing towels
from very hot water and applying them to the in-
jured part. To be of value the water must be just
below boiling, so that it must be squeezed from the
towel with a dipper or other metal tool, and the
towel applied as soon as it can be held in the
hands. Another towel should be in the water, ready
to be applied as soon as the heat is gone from the
first. A flannel should be put over the part after
the steaming is completed.

Liniments and lotions are applied to injured parts
either for their rubefacient action or to dull the
pain. Massage is of value in chronic conditions
where the blood supply is deficient. This may be
applied by rubbing the parts or picking at the skin
with the hands, or using the vibrator.

42

Medical C ss

Tue Use AND ABUSE OF MEDICINES

Medicines are of untold value in the treatment
of disease, but they have their limitations like every-
thing else. The knowledge of the properties and
actions of drugs and their correct application in the
treatment of disease involves a very extensive study
which can only be mastered by those who devote
themselves wholly to that work. The idea that
certain drugs cure certain diseases is false, for only
in a few exceptional cases is there any drug specific
for a certain condition, nor is there any group of
drugs which is applicable to all cases of the same
disease. Nevertheless, the sale of proprietary cures
is a very flourishing business. The correct treat-
ment of a disease consists of eliminating the cause,
lightening the work of the defective organ, and
facilitating the work of nature in perfecting the
repair, in conjunction with such remedies as will
best aid the process. The irrational use of medicines
without a knowledge of why they are given tends
to defeat the purpose for which they are intended.
The design of the modern practitioner is to pre-
vent disease rather than merely to cure sickness.
The Health Department and the Bureau of Animal
Industry consider their work to be the prevention
of disease rather than the cure. Those who are en-
trusted with the care of animals are in closer con-
tact with them and are in a better position to carry
out these plans. To accomplish this successfully,

43

Your Dog and Your Cat

will require a sufficient range of study and amount
of work to absorb the time and thought of the ordi-
nary person, without assuming the responsibilities
of administering drugs about which he has no
knowledge.

Many bad practices have sprung up in the canine
field which ought to be corrected. Castor oil is our
best remedy for cleaning out the intestinal tract,
but the habitual use of it at regular intervals is a
bad practice and tends to lessen its effect on the
system. If the animal is kept right and fed right
there is no need of regular purgation, and even
when it is needed, recourse should be had to milder
remedies which will have a more lasting effect.
Cathartic pills are even worse than castor oil. Fol-
lowing their repeated use a habitual constipation de-
velops, which is difficult to overcome.

The idea generally prevails among dog owners
that all dogs are infested with worms and must be
regularly treated for them. While worms are more
or less prevalent among dogs, the disasters result-
ing from them are less than from the violent action
of some of the remedies which are given to remove
them. The purging of dogs with drastic worm
medicines is always attended with grave danger
and should be carried out only by those thoroughly
familiar with the action and dosage of the remedies
given.

A large percentage of skin diseases is due to
dietary disorders and intestinal diseases rather than

44

-

Medical Care

to mange parasites. Treatment of these conditions
depends, therefore, more on the correction of the
underlying condition than on the external applica-
tion of skin lotions. Remedies sufficiently strong to
destroy the mange organism are far too violent for
other skin disorders. To overcome or prevent these
conditions it has become a quite general practice to
put sulphur in the drinking water. While sulphur
is of unquestionable value in treating these condi-
tions, its administration in this manner is inefficient
because of the fact that it is not soluble and except
for the odor it imparts to the water has no effect.

At the present time there is no known distemper
cure. Treatment of this disease depends to a great
extent on hygiene, intensive feeding, and careful
nursing. Such medical treatment as is used must
be directed toward the abnormal symptoms present
in the individual case. No stock preparation can
be depended upon to carry out these intentions. The
use of serum has become quite extensive and in the
hands of a veterinarian who understands its actions
and indications, this type of medication may prove
of much benefit.

Home TREATMENT

It is neither possible nor necessary to call profes-
sional aid for all of the dog’s minor ailments pro-
viding the owner is capable of discerning between
minor conditions and those of grave importance.

45

Your Dog and Your Cat

This faculty comes more from experience than
from any other source. There are, however, many
ways by which the severity of an illness may be
judged. A clinical thermometer is a very valuable
adjunct to the household. A dog sick enough to
carry a temperature of 103° F. or above is too sick
for one to take chances with his recovery. In many
diseases the appearance of a fever may act as an
indication of when to stop home treatment and
seek the help of a doctor. A cold in the head is not
dangerous until a fever develops, but on its appear-
ance, bronchitis, pneumonia, or distemper may be
expected. Constipation should respond to home
treatment, but failure to get results in seventy-two
hours or the appearance of a fever indicates that
the condition is of grave importance. When a
diarrhea does not respond in a few days to ordi-
nary treatment or when it is accompanied by fever,
the case should be given outside aid. Vomiting
should not be allowed to persist for any length of
time. Simple wounds may be treated by ordinary
antiseptic methods unless the presence of fever
sends forth warning of approaching blood poison-
ing. Fractures, injuries, and convulsions require
first aid, but should later be given expert care. The
problem which confronts the owner is a knowledge
of his own limitations and a willingness to admit
his shortcomings. Better than to wait a few days
to see if a condition will not improve, is an unneces-
sary trip to the doctor. The money thus spent in-

46

Medical Care

creases your knowledge of your dog and is a good
insurance against a possible loss.

HosPITAL

Too many people are possessed of the idea that
as soon as their dog is taken sick he must be put
in a hospital. Nothing could be further from the
truth. The trouble usually lies in their unwilling-
ness to spend the time and trouble needed to nurse
their pet. There are conditions which cannot be
taken care of except where the facilities of the hos-
pital are afforded. Operative cases, those requiring
skilled nursing, or those hovering between life and
death, are essentially hospital cases. Dogs which
are suffering from the ordinary ailments are far
better off at home under familiar surroundings and
with familiar people than they are in strange places.
They can be given much more individual attention
at home than in the ordinary hospital.

HYGIENIC TREATMENT FOR THE SICK

Quiet, absolute cleanliness, fresh air, a suitable
temperature, good food, and last, but not least,
companionship, are needed for the sick dog. He
should not be forced to exercise when he is unwill-
ing or unable to do so. If it is necessary to take
him out of doors to clean himself do not go farther
than the occasion demands. It is better to try to

47

Your Dog and Your Cat

induce him to use a paper indoors. Where there
are stairs to climb he should be carried if possible.
Such conservation of energy will prove valuable
to him.

The dog and his quarters should be kept abso-
lutely clean. Tub baths must be avoided, because
they are weakening and expose the animal to colds,
but any soiled parts can be sponged with hot water
and thoroughly dried. His bed should be kept
clean and fresh. His food should be freshly pre-
pared at each offering and should be clean and
wholesome. If the appetite fails, the dog can often
be tempted to take food from his master’s hand,
when he would not touch it in a dish.

The air in the room should be frequently changed
and the temperature kept moderately warm and
even. No drafts should be allowed to strike the
dog. His general comfort in every way should be
provided.

The sick dog should not be shut up in a room and
left to his own devices, nor should he be put away
in strange surroundings unless absolutely neces-
sary, for an unaccustomed change will sometimes
work havoc with a sensitive dog. The animal en-
joys seeing his master and relies upon him to help
him in his trouble. A word and a pat are worth
more than drugs in curing many an ailment.

CHAPTER) tif

COMMON DISEASES OF DOGS

DIGESTIVE DISTURBANCES

Indigestion.—Indigestion results from the partial
or complete failure of the digestive organs to func-
tion. It occurs most frequently in puppies and
young dogs and especially in those whose vitality
is low because of some debilitating condition, such
as rickets or worms. Poodle, Pomeranian, Boston
Terrier and Collie puppies are the breeds most com-
monly affected.

Cause.—Improper food: milk, potatoes, rice,
cornmeal, sloppy foods and doughy masses; over-
feeding: large quantities of bulky starchy foods and
slops. Catarrh of the stomach and intestines, and
constipation help to induce the condition.

Symptoms.—In mild attacks the dog shows un-
easiness after eating a large meal, runs about the
room, occasionally lies down on his belly with his
head on his forefeet stretched before him, rolls on
his back with his feet in the air, crouches down with
his head and forefeet low, and his hind parts high
in the air. He may cry at intervals or he may keep
it up continually. The abdomen is distended and
painful. Short mild attacks may occur for several
days without attracting attention. The appetite

49

Your Dog and Your Cat

will, however, gradually fail. By that time the
trouble will be aggravated by a small quantity of
food.

Severe attacks may follow a series of mild ones
or may occur suddenly after the ingestion of a
particularly offensive meal. The dog becomes very
restless, runs about in frenzy, throws himself vio-
lently to the floor, only to get up immediately and
run about again. The dog will shriek, at times
constantly. The abdomen is very much distended,
hard and painful. Unless the dog is given prompt
attention, a severe attack will soon turn into a case
of intoxication which is manifested by convulsions
and depression. In neglected cases death soon
follows.

Prevention.—Indigestion may be prevented only
by proper feeding. Few cases will occur in dogs
given a concentrated nutritious diet. Milk is almost
invariably the cause of indigestion. Dogs that are
not doing well should receive careful attention to
eliminate or overcome the cause, whether it be
worms, rickets, or poor food. If the bowels are
sluggish they should be corrected.

Treatment.—With the first symptom of indiges-
tion the doctor should be called. First aid treat-
ment will consist of causing the dog to vomit
through the administration of a large dose of
table salt or a teaspoonful of mustard in hot water.
After vomiting occurs the dog may be given a small
dose of castor oil.

50

Common Diseases of Dogs

Inflammation of Stomach and Intestines.—There
are many forms of gastro-enteritis, depending on
the severity and character of the causative agent.
The inflammation may affect only the stomach or
any region of the intestines, or it may involve the
entire tract. In all cases the symptoms are about
the same and without great experience it is im-
possible to diagnose the exact location.

Cause.— Improper food, overfeeding, worms,
foreign bodies, obstructions, and poisoning, either
by drugs, spoiled food or toxins arising from faulty
digestion. Gastro-enteritis may be associated with
indigestion, intoxication, distemper, or rickets. A
mild inflammation of several days’ standing may
suddenly develop into a violent form if neglected.

Symptoms.—Depression, dullness, and loss of
appetite are the first indication of trouble. The
dog lies about in dark corners, feigning sleep. He
is reluctant about coming out for his food, of which
he takes but little and perhaps none at all. The
symptoms occur gradually in a mild case, but very
rapidly when the condition has been caused by some
violent irritant, such as poisoning by arsenic. Pain
is always present, varying in degree with the
severity of the attack. He may lie on his back,
bite at his flank, and show distress from pressure
over the abdomen, or he may lie flat on his side,
breathe hard, and groan with every breath. The
temperature when normal or slightly raised indi-
cates that the condition is mild, while a fever of

51

Your Dog and Your Cat

103° F. means that the animal is in a serious con-
dition. In the last stages, however, the temperature
will be below normal. Vomiting is a prominent
symptom and occurs early in the course of the dis-
ease. The frequency and ease with which vomiting
occurs increase as the condition progresses. The
bowels are at first constipated but later diarrhea
ensues. The first loose stools are soft and pasty,
but later they become thin and watery and may be
colored with blood. Evidence of hemorrhage is to
be taken seriously. Violent diarrhea extending over
a period of forty-eight hours is apt to be fatal. As
the disease continues the dog becomes very weak
and finally collapses. Convulsions may occur as
evidence of general systemic poisoning.

Prevention.—When the dog is given good nour-
ishing food in proper quantities and at proper in-
tervals, a great many of the causes of enteritis are
eliminated. Foreign bodies are eaten generally as
a result of a depraved appetite, due to a disorder
of the stomach, but if the dog is cared for properly,
this should not exist. If the dog is not given bones,
nor allowed to play with a small ball, the danger
of obstruction is slight. There is always a chance
of accidental poisoning, but this does not happen as
often as popularly supposed. Dogs are much more
often poisoned by large doses of drastic worm
remedies.

Treatment.—Mild attacks may be treated by
cleaning out the intestinal tract with a dose of

52

Common Diseases of Dogs

castor oil, fasting the dog for twenty-four hours,
and if the symptoms abate, put him on meager
rations for a week. This diet should be principally
meat. If the dog exhibits fever, vomits persistently,
or has a bad diarrhea, he should immediately be
placed under the doctor’s care.

Intoxication—Intoxication is a poisoning of the
system by the toxic by-products of digestion. These
are usually eliminated in the feces, but when the
bowels become sluggish or the process of digestion
incomplete, the toxins accumulate in abnormal
amounts and are absorbed into the system. This
condition is very common and accounts for more
deaths than any other form of poisoning.

Symptoms.—Nervous twitching varying from
slight movements of a set of muscles to violent
spasms of the whole body musculature. The dog
usually lies on his side and goes through the move-
ments of running. Frothing at the mouth is present
in most cases. The convulsions usually occur with-
out warning and last from one to fifteen minutes.
The dog may have one convulsion in twenty-four
hours or he may have them as often as every fif-
teen minutes, but he could not stand more than
fifteen or twenty of them. After the convulsions
the dog is very weak and will sleep for hours.
Sometimes they go into a convulsion which lasts
until death.

Treatment.—The doctor should be summoned
immediately. Until he arrives the dog must be

53

Your Dog and Your Cat

kept as quiet as possible, and during the intervening
time cold swabs may be placed on his head.

Vomiting.—Vomiting is a symptom of a dis-
ordered stomach which may be either a disturbance
of digestion or an inflammation of the mucous
membranes. ‘The stomach is subject to much abuse
by frequent gorging with bulky, sloppy foods which
are hard to digest. Coping with this day after day
taxes the endurance of the organ and sooner or
later it becomes exhausted. It is very fortunate
for the dog that he can vomit so easily, for as soon
as the stomach reaches its limit, it promptly rebels.
When this occurs all food and liquids should be
withheld for at least twenty-four hours, and longer
if necessary. Too often this warning is unheeded
and the indulgent owner persists in giving one food
after another in hopes of finding something that the
dog can retain. This only wears out an exhausted
organ and increases the disturbance already existing.

The character of the vomit depends upon the
nature of the trouble. When the stomach is merely
overworked the vomit will consist of the offending
food. A white froth indicates an inflammation.
If the liver is involved a greenish or yellow vomit
occurs.

Vomiting may occur only after eating, extend-
ing over a protracted period, or it may take place
at very frequent intervals throughout the day.
When the vomiting is persistent the dog soon col-
lapses and death rapidly follows.

54

Common Diseases of Dogs

Treatment.—All food and water must be with-
held for a period of twenty-four hours. If the
bowels are constipated, the dog should be given an
enema of soap solution. After this, subnitrate of
bismuth may be given in five grain doses with a
teaspoonful of milk of magnesia every two hours.
If this is retained it may be continued for from
four to six doses, depending on the character of
the bowels, and then the bismuth may be given with-
out the magnesia. If the vomiting is checked the
dog may be given a small portion of scrapped beef,
at the end of the twenty-four hour fast, followed
a little later with a tablespoonful of water. If
these are retained, they may be repeated at fre-
quent intervals, gradually increasing the portions
until the dog is back on his normal diet. If vomit-
ing persists the doctor should be consulted.

Diarrhea.—Diarrhea is a symptom indicating an
inflammation of the intestines. It may be caused
by improper feeding, spoiled food, poisons, irritat-
ing drugs, and intoxication. It may accompany dis-
turbances of the liver, rickets, and distemper.

Symptoms.—The stools may be soft and pasty or
thin and watery. They may be yellow, brown, black
or red. In frequency they may vary from one every
twenty-four hours to one every hour. As the dis-
ease progresses the stools grow thinner in consist-
ency and more frequent.

Treatment.—With the first onset of diarrhea the
animal should be given a purge to clean the intes-

55

Your Dog and Your Cat

tinal tract of the offending material. Castor oil,
citrate of magnesia, or epsom salts may be used in
liberal doses. Food and water should be stopped
for twenty-four hours. After purging, the dog can
be given bismuth subnitrate in five or ten grain
doses, every one to four hours, depending on the
severity of the attack. Food when given should
consist of small quantities of meat, with perhaps a
puppy or dog biscuit at frequent intervals. Water,
if given, should be boiled and allowed only in very
small quantities at a time, but frequently. It is
better to use barley water, oatmeal gruel, or eggs
with milk, because of their mucilaginous nature
which helps to protect the mucous membranes.
Constipation.—We speak of the bowels as being
costive when the stool becomes hard and dry. Im-
paction results from the retention of hard dry
stools. If a hard mass of fecal matter, a bone,
peach pit, or other foreign body becomes lodged
in the intestines we speak of it as an obstruction.
The term constipation covers all three conditions.
Cause.—Constipation results from the ingestion
of large quantities of food, which are hard to digest,
bones, foreign bodies, lack of exercise, and fevers.
In old dogs, the digestive organs become weakened
and the fecal mass is moved on very slowly.
Potatoes, rice, corn, and bread are hard to digest,
and being bulky form a large mass which on ac-
cumulating paralyzes the bowels. Bones are a
very frequent cause of constipation. When they

56

Common Diseases of Dogs

are broken up by the digestive process, there is
left a great residue of mineral salts which mix with
the stool and form a hard dry mass. In many
cases, the bones are not digested and small pieces
become imbedded in the stool. The sharp points
scratch the mucous membrane of the intestines and
hinder the progress of the stool. This mass very
frequently becomes impacted in the rectum so hard
that it is necessary to use forceps to break it up in
order that it may be removed. Bones of some
size, such as chop bones, often become fast in the
intestines and obstruct the passage of fecal matter.
Other foreign bodies get lodged in the same way.

Through lack of exercise the muscles of the
intestines become inactive and weakened like those
in the body and legs. The fecal matter is not
propelled along as rapidly as it should be, and a
large mass accumulates which is hard to pass.

In fevers the increased body temperature causes
absorption of the moisture from the stool, which
becomes too dry to move freely.

Symptoms.—Observation should be made at each
evacuation to determine the character of the move-
ment. In this way alone can the condition of the
bowels be kept in check and constipation avoided.
After it has developed, the animal shows indications
of dullness and depression, loss of appetite, foul
breath, straining at frequent intervals without re-
sults, weakness of hind legs, followed by paralysis,

57

Your Dog and Your Cat

loss of control of all body muscles, collapse and con-
vulsions.

Treatment.—With the passage of a stool too
hard and dry, mineral oil, olive oil, or milk of mag-
nesia should be administered in small repeated doses
until the condition is relieved. At the same time
the diet should receive a substantial decrease or be
changed to overcome the cause. When no move-
ment has occurred for twenty-four hours, oil should
be administered, and in event of failure to func-
tion in the next twenty-four hours, a glycerin
suppository should be inserted in the rectum or a
soap enema given. At this time food should be
withheld until a movement has been secured, but
water may be allowed freely, unless vomiting occurs.
In case of no movement for three days or develop-
ment of fever, the condition has reached such a
severe stage that a veterinarian should be consulted
without delay.

Stomach Worms.—Round worms, varying in
length from one to three inches and in numbers
from one to twenty, white or pinkish white in
color, infest the stomach of a large number of
puppies. They live on the food intended for the
animal, and when present in large numbers deprive
him of a great deal of nourishment. Their presence
as a foreign body irritates the stomach considerably.
They thrive best in animals fed on milk, vegetables,
and a sloppy diet. Although they are of unques-
tionable harm to the dog, they are not as danger-

58

Common Diseases of Dogs

ous as is generally supposed. The dog that is well
nourished can harbor worms without any notice-
able results. However, their tendency to consume
the dog’s nourishment aids in the development of
such a disease as rickets. In fact, when one condi-
tion is found the other is present also. There are
many worm medicines on the market, the use of
which is always attended with danger. Drugs of
sufficient strength to dislodge the worms are drastic
irritants to the stomach. Some dogs are more sus-
ceptible than others to these medicines, which if
given in too large doses produce an enteritis that
is often fatal. Frequently repeated treatments are
apt to cause the development of a chronic gastro-
enteritis, which if not fatal, takes months to over-
come. Treatments, unless wisely administered, are
of more harm to the animal than the worms.

The presence of worms can be determined either
by observing the passage of mature worms or by
finding the eggs in the stool by microscopic ex-
amination. Under no consideration should a dog
be given a treatment unless a diagnosis has been
made. in one of these ways.

Tapeworms.—The intestines are frequently in-
habited by tapeworms. These worms grow from a
parent head segment with great rapidity until the
worm reaches the length of three or four feet and
even longer. There are various types of tape-
worm. In some the segments are broad and short
and remain intact, in others the segments are long

59

Your Dog and Your Cat

and narrow. These are passed, separated and alone,
or in bunches. They possess the power of move-
ment and when they elongate themselves have the
appearance of a roundworm. ‘They are frequently
spoken of as seat worms because they often stick
to the hair about the rectum.

The same rules of treatment apply to these worms
as to the roundworms.

Infected Anal Glands.—It is generally thought
that a dog is showing evidence of worms when
he draws himself along on the floor, sliding on his
rectum. This symptom, however, is due to an im-
paction or infection of the anal glands. These
glands are situated about the anus and secrete an
oily fluid which lubricates the anus and aids defeca-
tion. At times this secretion becomes thickened and
is retained in the gland. As its pressure becomes
increased necrosis takes place and an abscess is
formed, resulting in a very irritating and painful
condition. Because of the pain experienced in de-
fecation, the stool is retained as long as possible
and constipation results.

Treatment.—Hot moist packs applied over the
anus help to relieve the pain. Following this the
parts should be massaged with olive oil or vaseline.
After several applications, gentle massage about the
anus will break down the obstruction at the opening
of the gland and the secretion can be pressed out.
When an abscess forms this must be lanced and
treated accordingly.

60

Common Diseases of Dogs

DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY ORGANS

Catarrh of the Nose (Cold in the Head).—This
condition is brought about by chilling through ex-
posure in cold rainy weather, after a bath, clipping
or some other condition, which lowers the resistance
of the body. It may be caused by the inhaling of
irritating substances, such as dust, smoke, or fumes.
It is frequently a symptom of distemper.

Symptoms.—Sneezing accompanied by a watery
nasal discharge which may take the form of a gray-
ish mucus and later a yellow excretion. When ac-
companied by fever, distemper may be suspected.

Treatment.—Rhinitis tablets, one every three or
four hours. Boric acid solution may be dropped
in the nostrils. |

Laryngitis (Sore Throat).—Inflammation of the
larynx results from exposure to cold or the inhala-
tion of irritating substances, and may be accom-
panied by a catarrh of the nose. It is also caused
by excessive barking or by pulling at the collar.
Since the dog begins to cough directly after eat-
ing, the owner is led to believe that the animal
has got a bone or some foreign body in his throat.

Symptoms.—Cough and tenderness of the throat
are the principal symptoms. In later stages, as the
mucous secretions of the larynx form, they are
coughed up. The difficulty in raising this mucus
or phlegm, as it is usually called, often induces the
animal to vomit. The cough is persistent and oc-

61

Your Dog and Your Cat

curs more frequently at night. It is induced by
pressure of the throat which is tender. In severe
cases, the breathing is labored and fever is present.

Treatment.—The food should be warm, moist-
ened, and in very small pieces to facilitate easy
swallowing. If the bowels are costive, oil should
be given. The cough can be treated with Syrup of
White Pine, given in teaspoonful doses every three
or four hours. The disease should not be allowed
to progress for any length of time. If the home
treatment fails to give relief, the doctor should be
summoned.

Bronchitis.—Bronchitis develops from the same
causes as laryngitis and is also a symptom of dis-
temper.

Symptoms.—High fever and chills, attending de-
pression and fatigue, loss of appetite, heavy breath-
ing, hard dry cough, and nasal discharge.

Pneumonia.—Pneumonia is brought on by sud-
den chilling or long exposure to cold drafts. It
may be caused by inhaling oil, should the animal
choke during its administration. Pneumonia some-
times occurs as an infectious disease and is often a
complication of distemper.

Symptoms.—The symptoms of pneumonia re-
semble those of bronchitis from which it is hard to
differentiate.

Treatment.—Bronchitis and pneumonia both
should be placed under the care of the doctor. The
high fever is sufficient evidence of the seriousness

62

Common Diseases of Dogs

of the condition. Nursing is an important factor
in the successful recovery of these diseases. The
dog should be kept in a good warm place which
can be aired frequently without causing a draft to
strike the animal. The appetite must be coaxed
since it is important to keep up the animal’s strength.
Tempting dishes should be prepared and frequent
attempts made to induce the animal to eat. The
bowels must be kept open and when the dog is very
weak it is necessary to aid him in cleaning himself.
Should he become soiled the parts may be sponged
‘with hot water, after which he must be thoroughly
dried.

Bronchial Asthma.—This disease is seen in old,
fat dogs. It usually results from a neglected case
of bronchitis. The breathing becomes short,
labored, and wheezing. It is more difficult after
running, barking or excitement. This leads to an
attack of coughing which ends with choking and
even vomiting. When the mucus in the throat has
been raised and spit out, the attack passes off. The
heart is weakened and bowels are usually costive.

Treatment.—The constipation should be relieved
by the regular use of small doses of mineral oil.
The dog’s diet should be restricted to very small
portions of meat in an attempt to overcome the
obesity. Excitement should be avoided as much as
possible. The heart should be stimulated and anti-
spasmodics given under the direction of the veteri-
narian.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

INFECTIOUS DISEASES

Distemper.—This is the most dreaded of all dis-
eases affecting dogs. It is an influenza-like ailment
of unknown cause. It is highly contagious and
occurs in dogs of all ages, but is more frequent in
young animals. Distemper is easily disseminated
and actual contact with sick animals is not necessary
for infection. The virus is spread freely wherever
dogs are collected in large numbers. Dog shows
and kennels are very common mediums for spread-
ing the disease. However, the infection can be
gathered in the street or carried on the clothing.
Unsanitary quarters are favorite breeding grounds
for infection, and the vitality of dogs kept under
such conditions is so lowered that they become easy
victims to the disease. Distemper occurs more often
in young animals, because their powers of resistance
are not sufficient to combat the infection. Puppies
hampered by improper feeding, worms, or rickets
possess much less vitality than healthy ones.

Symptoms.—Discharge from the eyes and nose,
sneezing, coughing, high fever, loss of appetite, and
diarrhea are the general symptoms. The dog may
have a heavy bronchitis or a pneumonia. The dis-
ease may be confined to the digestive tract. Pus
blisters are often found on the belly and groin.
Involvement of the nervous system is often evi-
denced by twitching of a group of muscles or by

64

Common Diseases of Dogs

convulsions. In the later stages chorea may de-
velop, although this disease usually occurs some
time after the other symptoms have disappeared,
and the distemper has been announced cured. Dis-
temper may occur in the form of a diarrhea which
lasts from two to four days. This is usually fol-
lowed in about four weeks with chorea. In some
cases no other symptom than convulsions is present.
The cases which exhibit a bronchitis with a heavy
nasal discharge are not as fatal as those which in-
volve the intestines. The death rate is very high.

Prevention.—Every possible precaution should
be exercised in preventing distemper. When the
dog is out for his walk he should be kept away
from suspicious looking animals, especially the
street variety. Great care should be taken that he
does not contract a cold on rainy days, or after his
bath. If the dog is not as vigorous as he should be,
find out the reason and try to overcome it. Should
the owner desire to enter his dog in a show, it is
advisable to have him vaccinated before doing so.
The immunity thus conferred will last but a few
weeks and should be done about a week before
showing.

Treatment.—There is no known cure for dis-
temper. Serums in the hands of those familiar with
their action often prove helpful if used early in the
disease. The dog should immediately be put under
the doctor’s care. Delays are dangerous, and with

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Your Dog and Your Cat

distemper, twenty-four hours on the start means a
great deal in the final outcome.

Chorea.—Chorea is a nervous disease which de-
velops as a sequel of distemper. It may appear dur-
ing the later course of the disease, but is not usually
seen sooner than two weeks after recovery, and may
not develop for two months afterward. The dis-
ease is thought to be due to a degeneration of the
nerve tissue just outside of the spinal cord, caused
by toxins generated by the distemper virus. It is
characterized by regular spasms of certain muscles
or groups of muscles. Usually one leg, the jaw,
or the muscles over the head are affected. Some-
times all of the legs may be involved. The condi-
tion always starts in one group of muscles and if
the progress is slow, further development may be
checked. The dog may live a very normal life
thereafter in spite of this handicap. When the dis-
ease develops rapidly, other parts of the body soon
become affected. The convulsive twitching of a
large part of the body muscles consumes a great
amount of energy and the dog soon becomes ex-
hausted. In these cases treatment is without results
and the animal must be destroyed or it will die a
hard and lingering death.

Treatment.—Many and various drugs have been
used in the treatment.of chorea. Each veterinarian
will have a different line of treatment based on the
results of his experience.

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Common Diseases of Dogs

DISEASES OF THE URINARY TRACT

Urinary disorders are not common in dogs and
their diagnosis and treatment are difficult. It is
important, however, that the dog has daily passages
of his urine and it is the owner’s duty at all times to
keep this in mind. Retention of the urine is very
dangerous, for it quickly leads to uremic poison-
ing, which is fatal. If no water is passed for more
than twenty-four hours the matter should be given
immediate attention. The chief causes of retention
are paralysis of the bladder and the presence of
calculi, or stones in the urethra. Paralysis of the
bladder may be caused by direct injuries to the
region or to the spine. It comes secondary to con-
stipation and very often in pregnant bitches during
whelping. Stones or calculi are formed in the blad-
der and carried down into the urethra where they
become impacted, obstructing the passage of urine.
Retention of urine may be recognized by frequent
attempts at urination without results, or by the
passage of but a few drops.

Urine discolored by blood is symptomatic of an
inflammation of the bladder, caused generally by
calculi. When the inflammation is intense or the
kidneys are involved, the urine becomes cloudy and,
sometimes, coffee-colored. These conditions are
both dangerous and need prompt attention.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

GENERAL DISEASES

Rickets.—Rickets is a very important and ex-
tremely common disease affecting puppies. It is
generally considered as a disease of the bones, but
as a matter of fact, the nutrition of the whole body
is affected. When the puppy is born, the bones are
soft, and as he grows, they should normally become
hardened by the lime salts which are deposited in
them. In rickets this process does not take place
as rapidly as it should, if at all. The muscles are
weak and flabby, but may be padded with fat.
Digestion does not properly function and the gen-
eral condition of the animal is affected.

The cause of rickets may be either a lack of
salts in the food or an excessive excretion of them.
The disease may be inherited from its parents, or
it may be a result of poor breeding, or of inbreed-
ing. As yet the real cause has not been determined,
but in nearly all cases the food has consisted mainly
of milk, bread, vegetables, and soup. Since dogs
affected with rickets almost invariably harbor
worms there may be some connection between the
two conditions. Collies, Shepherd Dogs, Airedales,
English Bulldogs, and Pekingese are the breeds most
commonly affected.

Symptoms.—The disease does not become notice-
able until the pup is at least four weeks old, when
it may be observed that he is not able to support
his body on his legs. As a rule he is very fat and

68

Common Diseases of Dogs

this is supposed to be the cause of the trouble. The
dog is more frequently from two to three months
old before the symptoms of the disease appear. In
these cases the dog becomes unthrifty, less lively,
disinclined to moving about, which he does with
difficulty. There is great distention of the abdomen
and the first evidence of trouble may be an attack
of indigestion. The hair is dull and staring, the
skin dry and scaly, and eczema may be present, or
developing. The prominent signs of the disease are
in the bones. The legs are crooked and the joints
enlarged. The spine may be curved and the ribs
so soft that the chest may be flattened similar to
the human chest. In severe cases the dog shows
marked evidence of pain when trying to move about
or when being handled. As the disease progresses,
the attacks of indigestion are increased in frequency,
an intoxication of the system develops, and the dog
is finally thrown into convulsions.
Prevention.—Rickets can be overcome to a great
extent if the puppies are fed good nutritious food
from the time they are weaned. The young puppies
must receive a liberal quantity of meat as early as
possible. Starchy foods and milk must be to a
great extent eliminated. If worms are present they
should be treated. The bitch when carrying her
litter should be given plenty of solid food. Lime
in the form of bone meal may be given. An abun-
dance of exercise and fresh air should be allowed the

69

Your Dog and Your Cat

bitch while pregnant and the puppies as soon as
they are able to be out.

Treatment.—lf{ a case of rickets is recognized
early enough in its course the progress can be
checked and the condition overcome by rectifying
the diet. The food should not only contain plenty
of protein but should also have a considerable
quantity of fat. Beef fat, butter, cream, eggs,
olive oil, or cod-liver oil will supply this, but they
must be used with discretion or the puppy’s stomach
which is already weakened will become upset. Lime
salts may be artificially supplied by giving lime
water in teaspoonful doses in the drinking water or
by putting small quantities of bone meal in the food.

It should be determined early whether or not
the puppy is harboring worms. In case they are
present he should be treated for them providing he
is strong enough to withstand the ordeal. When
the disease has progressed to such a stage that the
dog’s movements are hampered the possibilities of
a successful treatment are slight.

DISEASES OF THE SKIN

Eczema.—Eczema is a disease of the skin caused
by a general systemic disturbance assisted by ex-
ternal irritation. It occurs in dogs of all ages but
is more prevalent in puppies under six months and
in dogs over six years of age. It most frequently
affects old, fat dogs which receive but little exercise.

7O

Common Diseases of Dogs

Causes.—The general disturbance which leads to
eczema has been popularly termed “overheating of
the blood.’”’ Certain substances, probably of the
nature of toxins, arising from the digestive tract,
circulate in the blood stream. These poisonous
products irritate the skin, but it is not usually dis-
turbed unless aggravated from the outside. If,
however, they are produced in sufficient quantities,
eczema may develop without the external irrita-
tion. The digestive disorder, which leads to this,
may be caused by an irrational diet, an excess of
food, and constipation, or it may coexist with
worms, rickets, and distemper. The foods which
are conducive to eczema are fats, milk, soups,
gravies, and boiled liver. Raw meat absolutely does
not cause this condition when fed in reasonable
amounts, but eczema may develop when any of the
proper foods are given in unlimited quantities.
Constipation promotes any form of intoxication.
Rickets and worms when brought to notice are
usually associated with an error in diet. During
such severe debilitating diseases as distemper the
resistance of the body is too low to combat either
external or internal irritation of the skin.

The external irritation may be produced by dirt,
fleas, lice, matted hair, frequent bathing, strong
soaps and disinfectants. However, unless the sys-
temic condition above described exists; the skin
will not be affected by the irritation. A dog in
normal health may harbor fleas or lice without

7i

Your Dog and Your Cat

any apparent harm. He may bite and scratch at
his skin to rid himself of them, causing only super-
ficial wounds which readily heal.
Symptoms.—Eczema may develop at any time
during the year, but is much more prevalent during
the late summer, that is from the first of July until
the last of October. The disease usually starts
with scratching and biting at the skin. The small
areas first affected spread into large patches and
may even extend over the whole body surface. The
favorite location of the primary lesions are the
neck, back of the ears, the chest at the armpits,
the belly, and the back just ahead of the tail. As
the scratching continues the skin becomes red, abra-
sions are caused by the nails or teeth and the hair
falls out over the patches. In some cases a moist
viscid discharge exudes from the surface, while in
others scales and scabs are found. Small pimples
may appear in the affected areas or scattered over
the entire body. As the disease progresses, the
skin becomes thickened and thrown into folds. A
distinct odor always escapes from a dog suffering
from eczema. In the earlier stages the affected
parts are very tender and painful to touch.
Prevention.—Careful feeding on small quantities
of concentrated foods, together with plenty of out-
door exercise will prevent most cases of eczema.
After the dog has once suffered from it, care
should be taken afterwards, especially during the
summer, to prevent its reoccurrence. Constipation

72

Common Diseases of Dogs

and any other systemic condition should be quickly
corrected.

Treatment.—The first and most important part
of the treatment consists in putting the animal on
a diet. The amount of food given should be re-
duced to one-half or even one-quarter of the usual
quantity. Raw beef is the best food to use in this
condition, but it may also be boiled or roasted. In
addition a small piece of dog cracker or dry hard
bread may be given. For those who will not eat
the crackers this diet is far more effectual, and in
due course of time when the system needs more
nourishment, the animal will partake of the hated
cracker. This will serve as an indication that more
food is needed, and if the animal has commenced
to get thin it may be given.

Sulphur is used both internally and externally for
eczema. The old habit of putting a lump of sulphur
in the drinking water is of no value, but if it is
given in the food, benefit may be derived from its
use. Tablets make the most convenient form for
administration, and those containing five grains can
be given in doses of one or two, twice a day. For
external applications, powdered sulphur can be
mixed with lard or cottonseed oil in the proportions
of one to eight. If no results are secured in a
short time the doctor should be consulted, because
once the condition becomes chronic and of long
standing, it is very hard to overcome.

Mange.—Mange is a very severe disease of the

73

Your Dog and Your Cat .

skin caused by a parasite which is so small that it
can be seen only with the aid of the microscope.
There are two distinct kinds of mange caused by
separate parasites, each of which has a different
method of attacking the skin. One burrows
through the superficial layers, while the other fol-
lows the hairs down to their roots. The latter is
naturally the more severe. Mange affects dogs of
all ages, and all breeds. It is contagious and may
be spread from one dog to another, not only by
actual contact, but through the medium of anything
used by the diseased animal. Thus the infection
may be harbored in the collar, leader, blanket,
combs, brushes, bed, and even in the cage, room,
or yard where the diseased dog has been kept.

Symptoms.—The lesions so closely resemble
eczema that except in severe cases it is almost im-
possible to distinguish between them without the
use of the microscope. In severe forms of mange
pustules appear which as they break, discharge pus
that is filled with living parasites. Where pustules
form in large numbers in one area, the skin may
become pitted with holes. From this great quanti-
ties of bloody pus are discharged. Although the dis-
ease is a local affection, the general health of the
animal may become affected when the condition is
severe.

Treatment.—Very vigorous methods are neces-
sary to combat mange. If the dog is of the long-
haired variety, the coat must be entirely removed.

74

Common Diseases of Dogs

Lotions that are used must be thoroughly applied
at regular intervals, to all parts of the body, other-
wise the parasite may thrive on the untreated area.
Strong active remedies must be used to destroy the
organism, but they must not be too irritating to
the skin, or it will be left in a deplorable condition.
The lotions must not be applied too liberally.
Fleas and Lice.—The flea is the most annoying
pest with which the dog is troubled. It is most
prevalent during the late summer and autumn.
Fleas breed in dark dirty places such as in carpets,
cracks, corners, heaps of waste, etc. They lay eggs
from which young are subsequently hatched. Fleas
are found on all parts of the body, but more numer-
ously where the hair is dense. On badly infected
dogs, great nests of fleas are found, containing large
quantities of black excretion in which are the eggs.
Coarse dogs are not so badly affected by fleas as
are the finer breeds. If the dog is healthy no
trouble may arise from them, except the annoyance
of the continual scratching. However, when the
skin is sensitive, eczema may result. The skin be-
comes reddened by the scratching, and wounds are
inflicted by the nails and teeth. The lesions may
spread out till the whole body is involved.
Treatment.—To kill fleas is a comparatively easy
task, but to keep the dog free of them is a different
proposition. The most simple remedy is Persian In-
sect Powder, which may be sifted into the hair at
intervals of from four days to a week. The powder

75

Your Dog and Your Cat

is applied freely, working it through the hair to
the skin. After an interval of half an hour the
dog should be thoroughly brushed and combed to
remove the stupefied fleas and the excess powder.
This should be done over a sheet or newspaper in
order to collect the fleas as they drop off so that
they may be destroyed by burning the paper or boil-
ing the sheet.

C/N, Pearson’s Creolin or Lysol may be used in
the bath water, or a tablespoonful of the disinfec-
tant may be added to a quart of water and the solu-
tion used to saturate the hair just prior to the bath.
An emulsion made by adding a tablespoonful of
kerosene to a pint of milk or thick soapy water
may be used in a like manner. Treatments will
have to be repeated often to be successful.

Lice are not as common as fleas, but are much
harder to combat. It is wise to clip the dog com-
pletely before beginning the treatment. The kero-
sene emulsions can be used to the best advantage.
The proportion of kerosene should be increased at
subsequent applications, providing the skin does not
become sore from its use.

INJURIES

Wounds.—Superficial skin wounds are usually
treated with daily applications of tincture of iodine.
When they are very dirty and badly infected they
must first be washed with a warm antiseptic solution

76

Common Diseases of Dogs

such as boric acid. If the wound is extensive it is
often advisable to put in a few stitches. Deep
ragged wounds must be thoroughly washed and
then covered with swabs saturated with boric acid
or some suitable antiseptic. Penetrating wounds
caused by bites or nail puncture are the most dan-
gerous. The skin opening being small, closes
quickly, and the infection which has been carried
into the deeper tissues causes an inflammation.
Since the discharges cannot go to the surface they
are forced out through the softer tissues, and blood
poisoning results. Bite wounds require careful at-
tention because of the danger of rabies.

Bruises.—TVhe skin and muscles are bruised by
blows, kicks and the like. The affected parts be-
come, red, hot, swollen, and painful, owing to the
inflammatory processes. During the first twenty-
four hours after the wound has been inflicted, swabs
soaked in cold water can be applied. Afterward hot
applications are used, which may be followed by
liniments and massage.

Abscesses.—Abscesses result from the destruc-
tion of tissues by blows and similar injuries and
from puncture wounds. The inflammation instead of
spreading remains confined to a small area, and pus
develops. This gives rise to a hot, painful swelling
which is more or less circumscribed. When this is
“ripe” it must be opened, the pus drawn out, and
the wound treated with antiseptics. Hot moist

77

Your Dog and Your Cat

packs or poultices will hasten the development of
the abscess.

Dislocations.—In the dog the shoulder and elbow
joints of the front leg and the stifle and hip joints
of the hind leg are most subject to dislocation. This
is brought about by a fall, jumping, slipping, or
from a blow. Unless the dislocation is reduced
within a comparatively short time, the tissues be-
come so swollen and the ligaments so tense that it
is practically impossible to reset the leg without
causing injury to the tissues. To prevent swell-
ing before the doctor arrives, the parts should
be covered with swabs on which cold water is fre-
quently poured.

Fractures.—Although fractures may occur in any
bone in the body, they are most frequently seen in
the leg. Broken bones result from falls, blows, and
automobile accidents. Strange as it may seem, they
result more frequently from short falls, such as
from a chair, than from a second or third story
window. The bones of the pelvis are frequently
crushed when the dog is run down by an automobile.
With such an accident there is always danger of
a rupture of a blood vessel with an internal hem-
orrhage. Fractures are recognized by the great
pain resulting from movement of the parts, limp-
ness, and inability to stand. Sometimes a noise can
be heard or felt, due to the scraping of the broken
ends of the bone. A temporary bandage is first
loosely applied to remain until the swelling sub-

78

Common Diseases of Dogs

sides. This may be soaked with cold water to dis-
courage swelling. After forty-eight to seventy-two
hours a permanent cast should be applied by a com-
petent hand. Bandages that are applied too tightly,
with too little cotton padding, or not covering the
whole of the leg beyond the break in the direction
of the toe, will cause necrosis or sloughing of the
tissue on account of a stoppage of the circulation of
blood to the parts. Bandages put on by inexperi-
enced persons should be changed at least every third
day. During the process of healing the dog should
be kept as quiet as possible to avoid any movement
or displacement of the broken bones.

CHAPTER IV

CARE AND DISEASES OF BREEDING ANIMALS
BREEDING

Advisability—The house pet should under no cir-
cumstances be bred because of the great risks in-
volved. The bearing of young is a normal function
which should not be attended with danger pro-
vided the dog is kept under natural conditions
and allowed to choose its own mate. The house
dog, however, lives a very abnormal life and is
forced to mate with the dog which meets the ap-
proval of her master. Since pet dogs are usually
products of systematic breeding aimed at the de-
velopment of an ideal type, their powers of repro-
duction, as in all other high bred animals, are
greatly reduced. This weakness is due mainly to
lack of freedom, overfeeding, and close breeding.
The difficulties commonly encountered are, inability
to deliver their puppies, death of the puppies prior
to the time of delivery, inflammation of the womb,
and eclampsia. Each of these conditions causes a
great deal of suffering and is frequently fatal.

Professional breeders expect a certain amount of
trouble with their bitches and since they are kept
only as a business proposition the loss is entirely
monetary. This, on the other hand, is not the case

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Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals

with the pet. She occupies a prominent position
in the family and receives the love and devotion
of all of its members. Her loss cannot be measured
by money, for the grief of all those who love her
is beyond money value. He who sponsored the
breeding is responsible for her untimely death.

The dog, no matter whether it be male or female,
is much less desirable as a house dog after breed-
ing. The bitch loses her graceful form and be-
comes more excitable during her period of season.
The dog develops a great desire to mingle with
other dogs, especially those of the opposite sex. He
may become restless and will even run away from
his home, if the opportunity is afforded, in order
to gratify his desire. When unable to do this he
often becomes obnoxious about the house.

Necessity.—Under normal conditions the bearing
of young should improve the health of the matron.
The advantages, however, do not outweigh the
dangers, hence the performance is not to be advised
even though it may seemingly be recommended.
Breeding is by no means necessary to the mainte-
nance of health, for it is possible for dogs of either
sex to pass through a very vigorous existence with-
out having a single intercourse.

REPRODUCTIVE FUNCTIONS

Estrum.—The period of estrum or season, as it
is generally called, first occurs in the bitch when

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Your Dog and Your Cat

she is about one year old, but it may appear at
any time from the ninth to the eighteenth month.
It should recur, thereafter, at intervals of six
months. An irregularity of the interval between
seasons sometimes occurs, but the period is always
constant for the individual concerned. Some dogs
come in season but once a year, others are sick at
regular intervals of four months, and others at
three.

Estrum is first recognized by a swelling of the
vagina or external genital. Ina few days a mucous
discharge appears, the amount of which depends
on the sexual vigor of the animal. This period
lasts from seven to ten days. The dog is very
playful and desires the company of other dogs,
especially of the opposite sex, but she will not per-
mit intercourse. During the second stage of sea-
son the discharge becomes bloody and more copious.
This period lasts about seven days, during which
time mating may take place successfully. When the
bleeding stops, the swelling of the vagina disap-
pears. The entire period of season covers from six-
teen to twenty days.

Care of the Dog During Estrum.—When breed-
ing is not desired the bitch should be kept away
from all other animals since their presence causes
undue excitement. Being naturally prolific breeders
they usually try to seek a mate. When a male and
female are kept in the home together they should
be separated at this time and every precaution taken

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Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals

to avoid their getting together. Oftentimes through
carelessness doors are left open and instantly the
animals seek each other. During her period of sea-
son the bitch should be fed more lightly than usual
and the bowels should receive added attention.
Under no circumstances should she be bathed while
in this condition.

Mating.—When breeding is contemplated, the
male should be selected with great care. This is
particularly important in the small toys and in Bos-
ton Terriers. Consideration should be given, not
only to the individual but also to his ancestors.
The size is of greatest importance. A small dog
may be the offspring of much larger parents, in
which case his get would in all probability be of the
larger type. The next consideration is the weak
points of the bitch, for if possible a male should be
selected whose characteristics are strong where hers
are weak. The correct time for mating is usually
considered as the tenth day of season; some breeders
prefer to have two services, one on the tenth and the
other on the thirteenth day. This, however, should
be decided by the owner of the sire. The mating
should be superintended by some one who has had
experience in the procedure. If the bitch is afraid
of the dog or acts the least bit combative, the inter-
course should not be forced, for the unwillingness
of the bitch usually is significant of an unsuitable
union. The date of each service should be recorded
and the day of expected parturition determined.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

This is very important, because should difficulty
arise it is hard to decide just what course to take
unless the time of confinement is definitely known.
For instance, if the dog refused food and the pass-
age was found open there would be no cause for
alarm if it occurred on the sixty-second day, but
if it was the sixty-sixth day, the puppies would
have to be delivered immediately by one means or
another.

False Conception.—This is a peculiar phenome-
non of nature. At about six weeks after the period
of season the breasts enlarge and milk is formed.
This occurs in bitches that have not been mated
more frequently than in those that have. The pres-
sure of the milk causes great pain. The temperature
goes up, the animal loses appetite and the bowels
become costive. Treatment consists in applying hot
towels to the breasts, after which camphorated oil
is carefully massaged over them. A dose of castor
oil is administered and food and water are given
sparingly for a few days. Abscesses of the breast
occasionally result from this condition.

Pregnancy.—During the period that the bitch
carries her young the bowels should be kept free.
She should have a liberal diet of good nourishing
food unless she is very fat. The food should, how-
ever, not be too bulky or sloppy. As much exer-
cise as possible should be given, especially if she is
obese. Great care should be taken to prevent acci-
dents. The dog must be kept clean, but not bathed

84

Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals

more than is actually necessary. Toward the last
she should not be given a tub bath, but can be
cleaned by sponging and brushing.

Signs of Pregnancy.—The pregnant bitch is very
deceiving. Frequently she will go until within two
or three days of her time without showing the least
enlargement of the abdomen or filling of the breasts.
However, there should be a steady increase in the
distention of the abdomen from the fourth or fifth
week on. The breasts should enlarge and milk
appear by the seventh or eighth week. The appetite
should be increased, the disposition become more
gentle and loving, and toward the last movement
of the puppies should be felt.

False Pregnancy.—Occasionally bitches which
have been served will show marked distention of
the abdomen and filling of the breasts up to the
sixth week. The owner will by this time be specu-
lating on what he is going to do with the enormous
litter of puppies, when suddenly the abdomen col-
lapses and the puppies become a dream. Sometimes
a bitch will show no sign of having conceived until
the day on which she should whelp, when she begins
to make her nest by tearing up her bed, then lying
down and beginning to labor. She may keep this
up for an hour or so when she suddenly forgets
or the desire disappears.

Parturition or Delivery.—Delivery of the puppies
should occur on the sixty-third day after mating.
The time, however, may normally vary from fifty-

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Your Dog and Your Cat

eight to sixty-six days in individual bitches, but the
period is usually constant in succeeding pregnancies.
The first sign of the approach of whelping is a swell-
ing of the vagina, which may appear from twenty-
four to forty-eight hours before the actual delivery.
Ordinarily the dog will go through the act of mak-
ing a nest by tearing up her bedding, a paper, or
whatever else she may find that is suitable. Her
ordinary sleeping place is a convenient spot for fer
to have her puppies providing she has sufficient pads
or cloths for her bed. Soon after the nest is made
the labor pains commence. These somewhat re-
semble the straining that would occur if the dog
were attempting to pass a very constipated stool.
To deliver the puppies she usually lies on her chest
with her body slightly curved in the usual manner,
but when the pains become violent she may lie flat
on her side. She frequently gets up, walks around,
and lies down in a fresh place.

As the vagina enlarges the water sack appears.
Labor pains keep forcing this backwards and as it
reaches the outer edge of the vagina it bursts and
the puppy may be seen presented just back of it.
The most common presentation is head first and
back upwards, although the puppy may come hind
feet first. The latter position, however, is more
difficult to deliver and unless accomplished quickly
the puppy may smother. When the puppy is up-
side down or the head is turned to one side, delivery
is difficult and in most cases is not possible without

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Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals

aid. The actual process of delivery takes place very
quickly and is accomplished by one or two vigorous
contractions of the uterus. The afterbirth usually
comes out with the puppy, and the mother, after
severing the cord, eats the sack. She then proceeds
to clean the puppy by licking and rolling it around
on the bedding. After it is dry she cuddles down
with it up near a breast. If the puppy is healthy
he will immediately begin to look for the nipple.
Only a short interval should elapse between suc-
ceeding births and a litter of four or five should
be born in from one to five hours.

Difficult Parturition—When there is a deform-
ity of the pelvic cavity of the bitch or the puppies
are too large to pass through it, trouble ensues.
Labor becomes more difficult if the puppies are dry,
dead or decayed. If the uterus is infected the labor
pains are much weaker. Should an interval of two
hours pass after the beginning of labor without re-
sults, it may be asstmed that the bitch is in trouhle.
In such cases help should be summoned immediately.
If the bitch is able to force the puppies but part way
out an attendant may remove it, providing he does
not have to exert great force. Occasionally one
puppy is delivered without trouble, but the bitch
does not seem able to bring forth the second. This
may be due to a dryness of the canal or if the
puppy has been dead for some time and the sack
broken the hair may be dry and sticky. To over-
come this, olive oil may be carried into the vagina

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Your Dog and Your Cat

using the forefinger to smear the oil around the
cavity and over the pup. If this does not produce
results in a short time the bitch will require surgical
aid. Under no circumstances should the bitch be
allowed more than twelve hours for delivering her
puppies. It is much safer to summon the doctor at
the end of six hours.

In case the bitch does not show signs of whelping
on the sixty-third day, there is no cause for worry
providing she is eating regularly, shows no distress
and has no discharge from the vagina. As the
sixty-sixth day passes, if there is still no disturb-
ance in her condition and no evidence of an opening
of the womb, it can safely be decided that the bitch
is not in whelp. On the other hand, if the appetite
fails, the bitch becomes restless, languid and fever-.
ish, any time after the fifty-eighth day she, in all
probability, has an infection of the uterus or is
carrying dead puppies which she will not be able to
deliver without assistance. When the bitch is
neglected until the womb becomes inflamed, hope
of recovery is scant. But if she is taken care of
early, before she becomes exhausted or infected,
she may safely go through even a Cesarian section
operation, should this prove necessary. Under no
circumstances should the vagina or uterus be ex-
plored or instruments used by anyone not familiar
with the organs.

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Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals

CARE

Care after Whelping.—If the bitch has eaten the
afterbirth of her puppies she should be given a
dose of castor oil a short time after the last de-
livery. She will require no food for several hours
but should be allowed to remain quietly with her
puppies. After she is rested, warm egg and milk,
gruel or broth may be offered her. Later if she
feels inclined she may have some meat and on the
second day can be given her regular diet. If her
milk seems scant she may be given oatmeal, gruels
and milk regularly, but care must be taken that an
upset of the digestion does not occur. When there
is not enough milk for the puppies a foster mother
should be obtained, otherwise it will be necessary
to bring them up on a bottle, a very difficult under-
taking. Occasionally when the bitch has had a
particularly hard time whelping, she will refuse to
own her young. They must be kept warm and fed
either from a bottle or by holding the bitch so
that they can nurse her. In a few days, as soon as
her condition improves, she will most likely take to
them again.

Following parturition there is generally a slight
discharge from the uterus which lasts for several
days. This, however, must not be confused with
the discharge which accompanies inflammation of
the womb. This condition usually becomes evident
on the second or third day after whelping. The

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Your Dog and Your Cat

discharge is copious, brownish in color and viscid
in character, and very fetid. The dog carries a
high fever, refuses food and shows extreme exhaus-
tion. Since douching under such conditions might
cause a rupture of the uterus it should be done
only on the advice of a veterinarian.

Care of the Breasts.—After a normal whelping
of at least four puppies the breasts should need no
attention. When only one or two of the puppies
are saved the bitch may have a superabundant quan-
tity of milk. When this occurs the breast becomes
swollen, hard and painful and the bitch may de-
velop a fever and refuse food. Sufficient milk
should be removed to relieve the tension. This may
be done by carefully grasping the nipple between the
thumb and forefinger far up on the breast and
massaging downwards toward the opening. When
the breasts are very painful hot towels may be
applied, followed by an application of camphorated
oil.

Eclampsia.—Eclampsia is a nervous disease
affecting suckling bitches. It occurs usualiy during
the third week after birth of the puppies but may
occur before or later than that time. It is more
frequent in bitches feeding large litters that are
very fat. It appears suddenly and lasts from
twenty-four to forty-eight hours. Given proper
care the dog will almost invariably recover, but
when neglected the disease is fatal.

Symptoms.—The condition appears as an intoxi-

go

Care and Diseases of Breeding Animals

cation or systemic poisoning. ‘The dog suddenly
becomes restless and breathes rapidly. In from fifteen
minutes to an hour the animal loses control of her
legs and is unable to move. The legs and head are
extended and rigid except for a violent twitching
of the muscles. The breathing becomes very diffi-
cult and can be heard at some distance.

Treatment.—The dog should be rushed to the
doctor with all possible haste. In case this is im-
possible she may be given I0 to 15 grains of
sodium bromide in tablet form. This may help
the condition but is rarely sufficient to counteract
the violent convulsions. Enemas may be given and
hot towels wrapped about the body. Liquids of
any nature absolutely must not be given by the
mouth since the dog is unable to swallow and they
would be carried down into the lungs.

CHAPTER) ¥

FOODS AND FEEDING

Foop REQUIREMENTS

Although feeding the dog is a very simple prob-
lem, a great deal of his sickness may be traced
either directly or indirectly to his food. These
dietetic disorders are usually due to the elimination
of meat in favor of the vegetable foods. Mainly
responsible for this is the prevalent notion that meat
is harmful to the dog. This assumption is, how-
ever, not based on facts, but, as will be shown, is
directly contrary to them. Those who accept this
idea think that meat will make the dog wild and
vicious or drive him mad. When meat is used ex-
tensively the condition of the dog is exceptionally
good and he is very active and playful. Sometimes
in his play he gets rather rough and may even un-
meaningly bite. This is the nearest to being mad
or vicious that the dog approaches from eating
meat. So far as rabies, hydrophobia, or mad dog is
concerned, this is a specific disease caused by the
bite of a dog already affected. It is also believed
that worms are caused by meat. Under certain con-
ditions this is barely possible, but the same chance
exists for man and still we do not refrain from
eating it. One of the many tapeworms affecting

Q2

Foods and Feeding

the dog occurs in its cystic stage in the muscles of
beef, but under the universal meat inspection which
we now enjoy the dangers from this are nil, since
it is one of the conditions for which the meat is
examined. Meat is frequently accused of being
the cause of eczema, but under the discussion of
the disease it has been shown that it is due instead
to starchy foods. _

That meat is the natural diet of the dog can
readily be proven by a study of his natural char-
acteristics, the comparative anatomy of his digestive
tract, and the difference in the composition of foods.
All animals are divided into three classes: (1)
Herbivora, such as the horse, cow, sheep, camel,
and elephant, feed entirely on vegetable foods; (2)
Omnivora, including man and the hog, eat both ani-
mal and vegetable foods; (3) Carnivora, to which
class belongs the dog, cat, lion, and tiger, are sup-
posed to live exclusively on flesh. Examining the
digestive tracts of these groups, we find that the
horse and cow are supplied with a very long and
voluminous intestine making accommodation for
large quantities of food material. On the other
hand, the dog has a comparatively short and small
intestine, affording room for only limited amounts.
From this it is easy to determine that the food of
the dog must be supplied in concentrated form.
Analyses of foods show that meats contain a high
percentage of protein which is essential to body
activity, a considerable quantity of fat, but no car-

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Your Dog and Your Cat

bohydrates or starches. Vegetable foods contain
a large amount of water, fiber and starches, with
only a small quantity of protein. Thus, to acquire
the amount of protein necessary, the dog must con-
sume a large volume of vegetable foods, while the
same nourishment could be obtained from a small
quantity of meat. Furthermore, the knowledge
gained from the feeding of dogs, both experi-
mentally and in the treatment of disease, has shown
that the more concentrated the food the easier it is
digested.

Foops

Meats—Beef.—Of all meats beef is most exten-
sively used since it is served more frequently in
the ordinary household. It may be given raw and
in this form is most easily digested and of greater
food value, because none of its nutritiveness is lost
in the preparation. The meat should be ground
preferably at home, for that which the butcher
prepares contains too much fat and gristle. Raw
beef should not be made the exclusive diet, except
in certain conditions, for, although it supplies all
of the energy needed by the body, it lacks the fats
and sugars necessary to keep the animal robust. For
this reason, it may be given alone and in small
quantities to reduce fat animals. The raw meat is
so thoroughly digested that but little waste material
is left, and thus the stool is scanty. This lack of
bulk sometimes induces constipation. Occasionally

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Foods and Feeding

in young dogs, not used to meats, diarrhea may re-
sult from intensive feeding of raw beef alone.

For general use boiled beef is better than raw.
It may be fed in larger quantities without affecting
the bowels. It may be prepared by boiling either
slowly for hours until tender or quickly until the
color changes. By the latter method less of the
substance is lost. After cooking it should be
shredded or ground. Portions from the ordinary
stew may be economically used. When roast beef
or broiled steak are served on the family table the
less desirable parts and the trimmings may be
ground up for the dog. Any cut of beef may be
used providing it is lean and free from gristle.
When buying exclusively for the dog the round is
the most economical.

Horse Meat.—For feeding large numbers of dogs
this meat can often be purchased at a much lower
price than beef. It has been found to be equally
as good. No different effects are noticed from its
use except that it is apt slightly to loosen the bowels.
It is safer to boil the horse meat since it is rarely
inspected.

Veal—Veal possesses no advantage over beef,
but when it is used by the family it can be given
with advantage to the dog with the result of mak-
ing a greater variety in the diet. It can be given
raw but is better when stewed or boiled. |

Lamb.—Stewed, roast, or broiled lamb or mutton
may occasionally be used, and when the appetite is

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Your Dog and Your Cat

poor often proves very tempting. The tag ends
of chops are usually left from the table, and if
ground, are readily taken by the dog.

Liver.—Raw liver may be used occasionally, but
not as a Steady diet. It has a laxative action and
in costive animals tends to regulate the bowels.
We do not approve of either boiled or fried liver,
since, in our experience, it has been found that ani-
mals fed freely with it, develop a disorder of their
liver and digestive tract.

Heart.—Beef and lamb hearts are very nutritious
and when they can be purchased to a better ad-
vantage than beef, there is no reason why they
should not be used extensively. They are usually
boiled, but may be given raw.

Lung.—The lungs or lights do not make a par-
ticularly good food, because they do not contain
much nourishment and consequently must be given
in large quantities—the thing we wish most to
avoid.

Pork.—This is very hard to digest and should
not be given in any form. Many dogs that have
been under observation have developed a violent
gastritis after eating only small quantities of pork.

Spiced Meats.—Liverwurst, bolognas, etc., while
not to be condemned for an occasional emergency
meal should not be used extensively. They are
hard to digest, and being tasty tend to cause the
dog to turn up his nose at ordinary meats.

Bones.—Dogs should not be given bones of

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Foods and Feeding

any description. Although they are of value in
many ways, their bad effects overbalance their good
qualities. Gnawing at bones is supposed to keep the
teeth free from tartar, but dry, hard dog crackers
will answer the purpose equally well. Should the
system require the lime from the bones, the
ground bone meal may be given and the dose
adjusted so as to prevent constipation. Chop
bones are especially dangerous for the dog be-
cause they can be broken up and swallowed. The
small splinters may be caught in the throat or
esophagus, and if they succeed in getting into the
bowel they become lodged in the rectum, causing
severe constipation and violent inflammation.
Often these splinters become so firmly impacted that
they have to be removed with forceps. Larger
bones may be swallowed whole, obstructing the
throat, or they may become fast in the bowel and
cause a stoppage which is frequently fatal.
Fowl.—This class of meat may be allowed to a
limited extent. Fowl do not possess as great a
food value as beef and are more expensive. Dogs
do not do as well when fed extensively on chicken.
When these meats are served on the family table
they may be given to the dog, but their frequent use
is not to be encouraged. They are not of any par-
ticular value for tempting sick animals.
Fish—The same may be said of fish as of fowl.
They are to be used only when necessary. When
they are given, great care must be taken to see that

97

Your Dog and Your Cat

all bones, however small, are removed. The fish
should be given boiled or baked, but never fried.
Canned fish is not desirable but may be used in an
emergency. The fish should never be left in the
can after it has been opened.

Dog Crackers.—Dog crackers rank next to meat
in their desirability as a food. They may be given
alone or with meat, dry, or moistened with hot
water or broth. They should not be soaked suff-
ciently to make them soggy but should be damp
and mealy. There are many good makes on the
market, but those which are not too hard are more
readily taken by the dog. When the crackers are
given moist and mixed with meat, a broken cracker
may be purchased which is cheaper and more con-
venient. For small dogs and puppies a smaller
cracker is prepared. This is not as hard as the dog
cracker and can be more readily handled by the
smaller animals. Puppy meal is a powdered prepa-
ration which is excellent directly after weaning. It
is used uncooked and mixed to a paste with hot
water or broth. .

Bread.—While bread does not compare with dog
crackers in nutritive value it is often desirable to
use it as a filler to produce the necessary bulk for
the ration. Stale white bread or rolls may be
given dry or moistened with broth. It should never
be sufficiently soaked to make it sloppy or soggy.
The bread is always broken in small pieces and
mixed with the meat.

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Foods and Feeding

Cereals.—Cereals may be added to the diet only
when it is necessary to furnish a ration which is
fattening. For a thin and hard working dog cereals
may be given in large quantities, but for a house
pet they are best avoided except in very small quan-
tities as a variety. Since they are very fattening
much care must be used in selecting and appor-
tioning them. Their use must be discontinued as
soon as the dog begins to take on flesh. Farina,
Cream of Wheat, Shredded Wheat, and oatmeal
may be used in small quantities for the morning
meal. They are mixed with the meat and moistened
with a little broth. Corn meal and rice are very
fattening and hard to digest unless thoroughly
cooked. Skin troubles are often associated with
their use.

Vegetables.—Vegetables which do not contain a
large amount of starch can be added to the ration
in small quantities to furnish variety and bulk. Of
these, spinach is perhaps the best, asparagus, cauli-
flower, cabbage, and string beans rank next, while
onions, beets, carrots, turnips and squash are rather
high. Vegetables having a very high percentage
of starch are very hard for the dog to digest and
should be eliminated from the diet entirely. These
are potatoes, beans, corn, peas and parsnips. When
vegetables are used they must be well cooked, finely
mashed, and mixed with other food. At no time
should they make up more than one-third of the
meal.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

Broth.—Beef and lamb broth may be used to
moisten crackers, puppy meal, bread or cereals, but
not in quantities sufficient to make the food sloppy.
It should not be given as a liquid for the dog to
drink except in cases of special feeding. Before
using, the fat should be removed from the broth.

Other Liquids.—For the regular diet all liquids
except water should be avoided. This includes milk,
coffee, tea, cocoa. Few dogs are able to take cow’s
milk and for this reason it should not be given ex-
cept in special cases.

Fruits, Sweets and Pastries.—Fruits should have
no place in the dog’s diet. Dogs that are par-
ticularly fond of apples may be given a small piece
now and then but never to excess. Candy should be
given the dog only as a vehicle for medicine or as
a reward for good behavior. The intervals at
which it is given should be few and far between.
Pastries of all kinds should absolutely be prohibited.

QUANTITY

It is very difficult to formulate rules governing
the amount of food that the dog should be given.
because of the great variance in size of individuals
and the difference in the amount of exercise each
gets. The best indication is the weight and gen-
eral condition of the animal. Puppies are expected
to gain in weight and increase in size until the fif-
teenth or eighteenth month. The gain should be

Ico

Foods and Feeding

slow and steady, and should consist in enlargement
of bone and muscle rather than in storage of fat.
The mature dog should remain at about the same
weight at all times. Should he begin to take on
weight on account of the storing of fat, the in-
dications are that the diet is too rich in fats and
starches and probably too great in quantity. On
the other hand, if the dog begins to grow thin
without showing signs of any diseased condition,
the amount of food should be increased in quantities
and fats and starches added. Dogs that are ex-
cessively fat should be put on a limited diet of raw
beef. A fat collie can get along with a tablespoon-
ful of raw beef once or twice a day. Puppies suffer-
ing from worms are usually very thin but have a
distended abdomen. If the puppy is young and
weak it will be necessary to build up his condition
before purging him of the worms. Such a dog
should be given meat in large quantities in conjunc-
tion with cereals, dog crackers, and a few vegetables.
A Boston Terrier puppy of three months might
require and take care of a quarter of*a pound of
beef twice or three times a day, one to three puppy
biscuits or a cup of Farina and a tablespoonful of
spinach at each meal. Until a dog reaches maturity
he should be fed intensively on the best of food.
After he has reached his growth he should be given
as little as possible to keep him in good condition.
If he becomes obese he should immediately be
placed on a rigid diet until he gets back to normal.

}
IOE

Your Dog and Your Cat

FEEDING

Puppy.—The best food for the newborn puppy
is, of course, the mother’s milk. Not infrequently
the bitch sacrifices her life in giving birth to her
brood. In such instance it is advisable to procure a
foster mother if possible, because rearing the pup-
pies by hand is a hard and tedious task. If a nurs-
ing bitch cannot be found a cat will often take her
place admirably well.

Breast Feeding—Care of the Bitch—tThe bitch
does not, as a rule, have an abundant supply of milk
until the second or third day after the puppies are
born. The first milk is of a different character than
the regular flow, but is suited to the first needs of the
pups. The bitch should be kept with her brood most
of the time for the first few days. After they have
become strong and active she may be taken away
two or three times a day in order to obtain exercise.
A good mother will, if allowed, spend her entire
time with the puppies, and as a result, her own con-
dition becomes run down. Constipation may result
from the intensive feeding and lack of exercise.
This may be avoided by regularly getting her out
of doors.

The bitch must be fed plenty of good, nourishing
food and allowed an abundance of water. Milk is
not necessary, but if her digestion is good she may
be given small quantities mixed with a raw egg.
Oatmeal gruel is supposed to produce milk. Good

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Foods and Feeding

rich beef broth over her meat and crackers will be
beneficial, cereals and vegetables may be given to
some extent.

About the twenty-first day the bitch often develops
eclampsia. This may to a certain extent be pre-
vented by giving the bitch good food which is easy
to digest, plenty of exercise, and by taking pains
to keep the bowels open. In eclampsia it is in-
variably noticed that the puppies have been draw-
ing pretty hard on the bitch, they are usually fat
and growing fast, and so if this condition is ob-
served in the early part of the third week, it is well
to keep the bitch away from her brood for periods
of two or three hours in order that she may have
an opportunity to rest.

Inflammation of the breasts occasionally occurs
in the early period of nursing. If immediate treat-
ment is given, the bitch can usually go on feeding
the puppies.

Care of the Puppies.—The mother usually takes
all necessary care of her brood. She attends to
their cleaning and to the bowels and urine. It isa
very common practice with bitches to desert a puppy
should it become sick. This is probably to attract
the attention of her master. The sucking pup fre-
quently suffers from constipation and colic. The
abdomen will be found distended, hard and pain-
ful to touch. An enema of olive oil with a medi-
cine dropper will relieve the condition. A quarter

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Your Dog and Your Cat

of a teaspoonful of milk of magnesia may be
given by mouth.

Nursing.—Within a short time after birth healthy
puppies should start to feed. They are able to move
about and find the breast without aid. The amount
of food taken at a time, and the duration and fre-
quency of the feedings are regulated by the demand
of the body. With a disturbance of digestion the
appetite becomes depraved and the puppy gorges
himself with abnormal amounts. In such condi-
tions it is necessary to determine the cause and
correct it.

Lack of Milk.—Often when a young bitch has an
exceptionally large litter she is unable to supply
enough milk for all of them. If the puppies are not
of great value a part of them should be destroyed
directly after birth or a foster mother may be
procured to take part of them. Otherwise about the
second week the puppies will begin to show effects
of lack of food. Bitches which are in poor health
are often unable to care for a normal litter. If all
of the puppies become restless, cry a great deal, and
nurse frantically, it is suggestive of lack of milk.
An examination of the breasts should be made and
if no milk is found the puppies should be taken from
the mother so that she may rest for a few hours
without the puppies removing the milk. After
three hours the breasts may again be examined, and
if no milk has formed in the interim the puppies
will have to be put entirely on the bottle. If a

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Foods and Feeding

small quantity of milk is present the puppies may
be fed by hand a part of the time and left with
the bitch for the remainder, or some of the puppies
may be taken from her entirely, leaving the rest
to nurse. When the litter is to be bottle fed part
of the time, they should be taken from the bitch the
first thing in the morning and given two feedings
in the forenoon at three or four hour intervals.
They should be allowed to nurse the bitch for a
short time in the middle of the day, in order to re-
move the milk already formed. In the afternoon
they may be given two bottle feedings and at night
put back with the bitch.

Superabundance of Milk—The bitch sometimes
has too much milk, especially when the litter is small
or when the puppies have all died or been killed.
Puppies are naturally greedy and if there is an
abundant supply of milk, they are apt to gorge
themselves and later suffer from colic. If the milk
is retained in the breasts they usually become in-
flamed. In either case some of the milk should be
drawn from the breasts at frequent intervals.

Bottle Feeding—Care of the Puppies—(1) Tem-
perature.—Keeping the puppies artificially warm is
of great importance in rearing orphans. They do
not generate enough heat to maintain the proper
body temperature. They may be kept in a box in
the bottom of which is a hot water bottle well
covered with flannel cloth or absorbent cotton. An
electric pad may be used but there is danger that the

T05

Your Dog and Your Cat

puppies may be injured if the pad accidentally be-
comes too hot. In winter the box may be kept on
or near the radiator. The sides of the box must
be of sufficient height to prevent the puppies from
climbing out as they grow older.

(2) Cleanliness——The puppies must be cleaned
every day. The discharges are washed away with
warm water and any matted condition of the hair
cleaned. A very slight amount of sweet oil or
cocoanut oil may be rubbed over the hair to prevent
discharge from sticking to it. Neglect in cleaning
brings about eczema at any place where the hair
is matted. Pus forms under the matted hair, caus-
ing it to fall out.

(3) Functions.—Urination may be stimulated
by tapping the end of the sheath or the vagina.
This should be done at least at every other feeding.
If the bowels do not move, the puppy must be given
an enema-of olive oil. If necessary these may be
given every day.

Food.—lIt is the usual custom in feeding puppies
to dilute cow’s milk with water. Sometimes sugar
is added. Bitch’s milk is much richer in fat than
cow’s milk, but does not contain near as much
sugar. It is, therefore, evident that cow’s milk
instead of being weakened should be enriched for
the puppy. Cream contains about double the amount
of fat and sugar found in bitch’s milk. The top
eight ounces from a quart bottle of the average
cow’s milk which has stood for eight hours to allow

106

Foods and Feeding

the cream to rise, will contain about the right quan-
tity of fat, but will be heavy in sugar. Eggs con-
tain about the same amount of fat, but no sugar.
A prepared milk may be made by diluting cream
with an equal amount of water, by taking the top
of the bottle of cow’s milk, or by adding a raw egg
to half a cup of whole milk. Of these formulas the
first most nearly corresponds to the bitch’s milk.
The puppies may be fed with a medicine dropper or
a small bottle may be arranged with a nipple.
Feedings.—First week: Puppies are fed at two
hour intervals from 7 A. M. to 7 P. M. and at three
hour intervals during the night, making ten feed-
ings in the twenty-four hours. Quantity: one-half
to one teaspoonful, increased if there is no distress
and if the puppies act hungry. Second week: Feed-
ings every three hours during the day from 7 A. M.
to 7 Pp. M. and every four hours during the night,
making seven feedings during the twenty-four
hours. Quantity: increased according to the ap-
petite and condition of the puppies. Third week:
Feedings every three hours during the day from
7 A. M. to 10 P. M. with one feeding during the
night, making six feedings during the twenty-four
hours. Quantity: Increased to meet the demands
of the puppies. One teaspoonful of beef juice is
allowed each day. The puppies should be encour-
aged to lap milk from the finger and later from a
dish. Fourth week: Feedings continued at the
same intervals. Quantity: Increased as necessary.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

More beef juice can be given. As soon as the
puppies lap the milk freely weaning may be started.

Weaning—Bottle Puppies.—It is essential that
the bottle puppy be weaned as early as possible in
order to eliminate much of the work of caring for
it. As soon as the puppy readily takes his milk
from a dish a small quantity of puppy meal, farina,
or Cream of Wheat may be mixed with it. At first
only sufficient should be used to make a thin paste,
later it may be gradually thickened. This may be
given only at one meal, but slowly it may displace
the plain milk feedings. As soon as the puppy is
getting the solid food entirely, the number of feed-
ings can be decreased to every four hours during
the day, with one feeding at night. Beef broth is,
then, gradually used to take the place of the milk.
Beef juice is given once or twice a day in teaspoon-
ful doses. Raw scrapped beef is next used in con-
nection with the puppy meal, starting with a half
teaspoonful once a day and increasing the amount
and number of feedings as the animal becomes ac-
customed to it. Boiled beef may then be substituted
for the raw meat, for a part or all of the feedings.
During this time the amount of puppy meal may be
increased if it is indicated. By the time it is six
weeks old the puppy should be getting the beef and
puppy meal exclusively. Water may be given as
soon as the puppy begins to lap.

Breast Puppies——Unless there is some special
reason for it they need not be weaned until they

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Foods and Feeding

are six weeks old. At that time the bitch will ordi-
narily superintend the procedure, herself. Their
weaning may be hastened by offering the puppy
food along the lines described for the bottle puppies.
If they readily take food weaning may be hastened
with advantage.

From Weanng to Four Months.—By the time
the puppies are eating their meat and puppy meal
well the night feeding may be discontinued. Four
feedings during the day will suffice, but one of these
should come just before bedtime. Gradually
cereals may be added to the diet, together with a
few vegetables, such as spinach, string beans, and
carrots. These should be well cooked and mashed.
The tendency for puppies at this age to overeat
must be controlled carefully. Worms or rickets,
if in evidence, should be treated. Eczema and fall-
ing of the coat will appear if the digestion is not
good.

Four Months to a Year——At four months the
feedings may be reduced to three a day. Puppy
crackers may be substituted for the meal. Meats
other than beef can be used. If the animal is doing
well more vegetables may be given. If the appetite
is especially good the crackers can be given dry.
Stale bread or rolls can take the place of the
crackers to some extent. The condition of the dog
will regulate the amount of food to be given. After
nine months two feedings a day are sufficient. Dog
crackers may now be given if desired.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

Mature Dog.—All grown dogs should be fed at
least twice a day, for if they are required to con-
sume in one meal all their body needs for the
twenty-four hours, the stomach becomes excessively
dilated and in time digestion is affected. The meals
should be spread out as much as possible but the
evening meal must not be given too near bedtime.
Regularity is very important. The feeding time
should vary but little from day to day. Stomach
upsets can easily result from carelessness in the way
the food is given.

The amount of food the dog receives must de-
pend on his physical condition rather than his ap-
petite. Dogs are as a rule very greedy eaters, and
if given their own way will eat all they can hold.
This is the mistake most commonly made and is
the cause of a great deal of the dog’s trouble. The
dog should be kept in good trim condition, just fat
enough to round the body nicely. A dog is too thin
when his ribs stand out plainly, but he is altogether
too fat when they are so covered that it is hard
to distinguish each individual rib.

Meat should make up a substantial portion of the
meal. From this is derived the nutritive material
which feeds the body cells in compensation for the
wear and tear of the body activities. Fats and
starches are needed for the production of heat,
and to make the fat of the body. For inactive ani-
mals but little of this kind of food is required.
Meat, however, is so concentrated and so thor-

IIo

Foods and Feeding

oughly digested and assimilated that some other
food is needed to add bulk to the ration. Dog
crackers, cereals and bread are used for this pur-
pose. Vegetables are given largely for the iron
they contain and to offer variety to the diet.

For the morning meal, raw or boiled beef may
be used, or some suitable meat, if any remains
from the previous evening meal. This can be mixed
with cereal, dog crackers, or toast. Farina, Cream
of Wheat, Shredded Wheat or oatmeal may be
given if available. At night if suitable meat has
been used on the family table there should be suff-
cient of the less desirable portions left, which, if
ground through the chopper, would make a very
palatable meat for the dog. This can be mixed
with crackers or bread crumbs, which have been
moistened with broth. If a proper vegetable is
available, a small portion may be added. In pre-
paring the crackers or bread, too much emphasis
cannot be placed on the fact that they should be
moistened, but not soaked. They are broken into
a dish and the broth is poured over them only to
be immediately strained off. This will leave the
crackers mealy, but not soggy or sloppy.

Important Points on Feeding—Special Feeding.—
Dogs that are thin but thoroughly digest their food
may be given a liberal allowance of crackers,
cereals, and vegetables. Cereals especially, are fat-
tening. If the dog is very weak a liberal portion
of meat should be allowed and in addition raw

rit

Your Dog and Your Cat

eggs may be given either over the food or with a
small quantity of milk as a drink. This is fre-
quently given in place of water when the bowels are
inclined to be loose. Bone meal is also serviceable
in chronic diarrhea.

Dogs that are very fat should be placed on a re-
stricted diet in order that they may regain proper
proportions. The food should consist largely of
meat in very meager amounts. A tablespoonful of
meat is sufficient for a collie that is excessively fat.

Overfeeding.—The most common error in the
care of the dog is overfeeding. Few people are
satisfied unless the dog has eaten all that he desires.
After he has had his fill they leave a portion in
case he should get hungry later. Such indulgence,
while prompted by a spirit of kindness, is very
harmful to the dog. He, of course, grows fat and
lazy and though no trouble may ensue for a long
time, sooner or later the results become evident. It
is a great hardship to a dog to be placed on a re-
stricted diet after having been allowed all sorts
of food in abundant quantities.

Improper Feeding.—Dogs suffer more than any
other animal from improper food. ‘This trouble
begins with puppies as soon as they are weaned.
They are almost invariably given large amounts of
cow’s milk and for the majority of dogs this is
very harmful, because they gorge themselves so
as to obtain sufficient nourishment. To this is added
bread, store crackers, cereals and potatoes, all of

Ii2

Foods and Feeding

which contain a large amount of starch and little
protein. The sloppy diet is, in particular, conducive
to indigestion, and is usually continued until trouble
results. The fear of meat is, to a large extent, to
blame for most cases of improper feeding.

Forced Feeding.—In some dogs that refuse food,
it is necessary to supply nourishment to the body.
The simplest method consists in feeding liquid
foods by means of a spoon or syringe. When these
are placed in the mouth the dog will usually swal-
low, but in some cases they absolutely refuse to do
so. The nostril may be closed to prevent breath-
ing in an attempt to induce the dog to take the
food, but this must be done carefully to avoid chok-
ing. If after the dog has been thus fed, he vomits,
no further food should be given till the stomach
has been put in shape to receive it.

Food may also be given by the rectum. An enema
of soapy water is first given to free the lower
bowel of fecal matter. It is washed out with a
weak solution of table salt and then the food is
slowly injected.

For artificial feeding a raw egg beaten with two
tablespoonfuls of milk is perhaps the best. Beef
juice is very nourishing, broth may be given and
for rectal feeding oatmeal gruel is very good.

WATER

The healthy dog should have free access to water
at all times, except after a long hard run, when he

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Your Dog and Your Cat

is very warm. At such times he should be given
only a small amount at a time until he has cooled
off. Water must be withheld when the dog is
suffering from:

Weak Stomach.—The dog should not be allowed
a drink of water for a half hour after eating. At
other times he may be allowed a reasonable quantity.

Gastritis—lEven small amounts of water will in-
duce vomiting when the stomach is badly inflamed.
The thirst should be quenched by lapping cracked
ice. Only a few laps should be allowed at a time.

Diarrhea.—In the early stages a limited amount
of water may be given. Should the diarrhea be-
come severe water must be withheld and liquids
supplied the system in the form of egg and milk or
oatmeal gruel in small quantities and at frequent
intervals.

Chronic Diseases——In chronic diseases of the
liver and kidneys when the thirst is abnormal, but-
termilk may be substituted for water.

CHAPTER) Vi
TRAINING THE DOG

Good manners and clean habits are the chief
assets of the pet dog, and even though he may
possess a wonderful pedigree showing the best of
breeding, if he does not display evidence of proper
training, he will find no friend in the home. Train-
ing an animal is simply a matter of education, and
in the dog the possibilities are far-reaching, for his
amiability, intelligence, power of reasoning, and
wonderful instincts are coupled with a devotion and
faithfulness to his master that prompt him to obey
his every wish. When these traits are developed
the dog is a far more agreeable companion than one
that has been allowed to grow up without proper
attention to his mental powers. To be well trained
the dog does not necessarily need to do tricks.
While this is amusing to the owner and sometimes
to the animal, it has no bearing on his fitness for
the house.

The effect of training is evidenced in the dog by
his refined and dignified appearance. He develops
a keen, intelligent expression as compared with the
dull, stupid, sleepy look of the undeveloped dog. He
becomes attractive and wins the admiration and love

TES

Your Dog and Your Cat

of all who come in contact with him. He is alert
and prompt in responding to commands and com-
plaisant in carrying them out. The man who care-
fully educates his dog profits much by the experi-
ence, for he will find that by thoroughly studying
the dog, he will himself learn many interesting
things concerning animal nature, and the power of
development.

TRAINING AGE

The dog’s training should begin while he is still
a small puppy, for when it is started early the
undertaking is much easier. Of course at an early
age the progress will be slow, but the influence of
the owner’s attentions will show marked effects on
the disposition of the animal, even if no definite
habits are developed. If the dog’s education is
neglected until he is six or eight months old, he will
have acquired many undesirable habits that will
be very hard to correct. But if the dog changes
ownership at this time and is taken into new sur-
roundings it will not be so difficult to control his
actions providing the training is commenced 1m-
mediately. ‘At such an age the dog will be capable
of absorbing more knowledge and will be able to
conceive more readily what is desired of him.
Many dogs, however, develop, as they grow older,
a very obstinate disposition which is almost impos-
sible to conquer.

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Training the Dog

METHODS

The owner must first develop in his dog a feel-
ing of trust and a desire to please. He must con-
duct himself in such a way that the dog will have
no cause to fear him. He should never shout at the
animal nor scare him. If the dog is naturally timid
he must approach him carefully, at the same time
talking encouragingly to him. No attempt should
be made to control his actions until the fear is
overcome. The dog should not be asked to do
anything that will frighten or harm him nor should
he be forced to do that which he does not under-
stand. By liberally praising the dog when he does
do right and rewarding him, a desire to please will
be stimulated.

When the dog has learned to trust his owner
he must then be taught who is master. While the
owner must not force him to do what he does not
understand or is unable to do, he must always fin-
ish what he starts. If the owner desires, for ex-
ample, to give his dog a dose of castor oil, that
oil must be given before he calls quits, if it takes
an hour, with three people to hold the animal;
otherwise he will never be able to give him oil
or anything else. To be a desirable pet, the dog
must learn to obey the will of his master, but the
master must be fair and reasonable in what he
expects of his dog.

In teaching the dog a task, he must be repeatedly

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Your Dog and Your Cat

shown what is expected of him until the owner is
absolutely sure that he thoroughly understands.
Once accomplished, the deed should be frequently
repeated until he is familiar with it. The dog
must not be punished until his master is certain
that he knows what is wanted. He should first
attempt to coerce him by coaxing and talking to
him or by bribing him with bits of meat. (If he
fails to respond he may be sharply scolded; if this
is of no avail he may be punished. A strap or
switch should always be kept for this purpose alone,
and the owner should never hit with his hand or
with anything used about the dog, or the dog will
always be expecting a licking.

The mind of the dog is capable of much develop-
ment if the owner is interested enough to stimulate
it. He can comprehend much from a conversation
of simple words such as would be used with a
child. In giving commands, however, the same
word should always be used for the same act, and
the tone of the voice should always convey the
spirit of the command. A reprimand should
be sufficiently harsh to convey the necessity of
obedience.

MANNERS

In the House.—The dog must be taught to re-
spond to his name, to come when called, or to lie
down when told. He should learn in what room he
is forbidden and on what furniture he must not

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Training the Dog

lie. He should be accustomed to having his meals
served for him in a certain place, at a certain time,
and should be absolutely forbidden the room during
the family meals, and especially should he learn not
to coax for food from those at the table. He must
be taught not to play with and tear up shoes, or
other articles of clothing. He must learn not to
scratch the rugs or chew the furniture. He must
be accustomed to his bath and to the brush and
comb. He must learn to submit to being handled,
to have his mouth opened and examined, to have
his ears cleaned, and to take medicine.

On the Street.—It is quite important that the
dog be taught to walk quietly at heel if he must
be taken on the crowded street for exercise. This
is not a difficult lesson, but is more easily taught
older dogs than puppies, for there is considerable
danger of breaking their spirit by being too strict
at an early age. Puppies are naturally restless crea-
tures with an inquisitiveness which leads them
everywhere, and this, to a certain extent, should be
encouraged. But, of course, endless trouble will
be provoked if the dog is allowed to chase about
the sidewalk jumping at people or getting in their
way. The dog should also be prohibited from
sniffing at other dogs, both because of the danger
of contracting disease, and provoking a fight.

When on the street, the dog should be controlled
by a leader attached to his collar or harness. He
may want to run in front, and while this is all right

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Your Dog and Your Cat

it is much better for him to follow his companion
close at the heel. When teaching this to the dog
the owner should shorten the leader as much as
possible. If the dog tries to go in front of him as
he starts to walk, the animal should be pulled back,
at the same time, receiving the command to heel.
If the dog persists in running forward he may be
lightly tapped on the nose with a light switch. As
the lessons progress he will soon learn to jaunt
along behind his companion.

With Strangers.—It is well that the dog be not
too friendly with strangers, for it tends to destroy
his individuality and unfits him for protection as
a watchdog. On the other hand, the pet dog must
be made to understand distinctly that he must not
show fear or distrust of strangers into whose hands
he has been put by his master. This is of special
benefit when it is necessary to leave the animal in
the care of a stranger at vacation time, or when the
veterinarian has to be called. Nothing is more an-
noying to the busy practitioner than trying to help
an animal which he cannot handle without using
hard tactics. The dog may, however, be taught
to attack, at his master’s command, any strangers
who attempt to enter the house or harm his person. —

HousE BREAKING

Cleanliness about the house is very essential in
a pet. Every puppy must be taught where he is to

I20

Training the Dog

clean himself, for they have no other way of know-
ing. In the apartment where a pan of sawdust or
newspaper is provided, it should be so placed that
the animal can at all times have access to it, and
it should always be kept in the same place. This
should be made ready before the dog is brought into
the house. As soon as he arrives he should be im-
mediately taken to the paper, and if possible, kept
there until he uses it. The paper is then left as
it is, so that later in his travels about the house
when he comes upon the paper, he is attracted by
the odor and is induced to use it again. In this
way the habit is formed, for once a dog has made
use of a place he is prone to return. Of course,
sooner or later, he is bound to misbehave, and
then he must be shown what he has done and
severely scolded. If, however, he persists in this,
it will be necessary to punish him, providing this
can be associated with the misbehavior.

Where it is desirable that the dog should go
out of doors to care for himself, it will be neces-
sary to take him out as soon as he arrives and keep
him out until he cleans himself. While in the house
he should be carefully watched for signs of un-
easiness; this is warning to take him out. After
a while he will learn that by going to the door he
will be taken out and when he has acquired this
habit he should always be attended to when show-
ing this desire. With a little care the dog can be

I21I

Your Dog and Your Cat

regulated to go out at certain hours and will care
for himself at these times. He should have this
opportunity at least twice, and better four times a
day, one of which is the last thing at night.

CHAPTER Vil
SELECTION OF THE DOG

BREED

The pleasure derived from the dog depends
largely upon the wisdom shown in the selection oi
the breed best suited for the conditions under
which he is to be kept. The work of the dog covers
such a wide range of duties, for each of which a
specific breed has been developed, that there is a
great variety from which to choose. ‘The char-
acteristics of the individual breed have been acquired
in compliance with the requirements of the service
for which he is intended. The physical develop-
ment of the dog is in direct proportion to the ac-
tivities and strenuousness of his work, and his man-
ner of living is in conformity with it. Although
the dog is very adaptable to environment he can-
not fit his mode of living to conditions which differ
too greatly from his natural habits, without dis-
astrous results to his health. And so in selecting a
dog, one should be chosen whose natural environ-
ment most nearly conforms with the accommoda-
tions available.

Qualifications.—The suitability of the dog for the
house depends chiefly on the amount of exercise he
requires aS compared with the owner’s ability to

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Your Dog and Your Cat

supply it under the conditions at hand. Although
the size and conformation of the animal must also
be taken into consideration, they are the factors
which generally determine the exercise require-
ments. Certain breed peculiarities and the purpose
for which the animal was bred must also be con-
sidered.

Size-—No class of animals varies so in size as
the dog, who ranges from the toy of one pound or
less to the St. Bernard of two hundred and fifty.
It is evident that the housing requirements of
dogs of different sizes are unlike. The toy could
not be allowed to roam about the streets at liberty
nor should the St. Bernard be confined to the limita-
tions of the small apartment. In order more clearly
to bring out the differences in size of the dog, the
various breeds, which are usually chosen as pets,
will be roughly grouped in classes according to
their size.

CLASSIFICATION OF THE BREEDS

Toys
(under twelve pounds)

Pekingese Pomeranian Toy Poodle
Japanese Spaniel Skipperke Brussels Griffon
English Toy Spaniels: Terriers: Chihuahua

King Charles Yorkshire Mexican Hairless

Prince Charles Maltese Pug

Blenheim Toy Black and Tan

Ruby Toy Bull

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Selection of the Dog

Small Dogs
(twelve to twenty-five pounds)
Terriers: Terriers: Bulldogs
Boston Scotch English
Fox West Highland French
Smooth Sealyham Dachshund
Wire-hair Cairn
Black and Tan Dandie Dinmont
Skye Welsh

Medium Dogs
(twenty-five to fifty pounds)

Terriers: Hounds: Samoyede
Trish Beagle Spitz
Airedale Bassett Chow
Bedlington Pointers
English Bull Cocker Spanie!

Doeberman Pinscher Dalmatian

Large Dogs
(over fifty pounds)

Shepherd Dog Setters: St. Bernard
Belgian Police Dog English Newfoundland
English Sheep Dog Irish Great Dane
Collie Gordon Mastiff
Spaniels: Retrievers Chesapeake Bay Dog

Trish Greyhcund Eskimo Dog

Clumber Bloodhound

Field Deerhound

Conformation.—The conformation of the dog
alters to some extent the amount of exercise he
needs. The bulldogs, notably the English, while
much heavier than others of their class, do not
require much exercise because of their peculiar

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Your Dog and Your Cat

build. Their short crooked legs are not able to
carry their heavy bodies at a very fast pace, and
because of their short mushed nose it is hard for
them to breathe. The other extreme is the Whippet
or the Italian Greyhound, for while they are light
weight dogs, they are built for speed and endurance
and consequently require much freedom.

Characteristics—Toys.—Because of their suit-
ability as house and lap dogs the toys have become
very popular. Being of diminutive size and delicate
construction, they are well adapted to confinement
since they require a minimum amount of exercise.
They usually belong to women or children and
there is a great tendency among such owners to cater
to their pettish whims until they virtually become
slaves to their dogs. Such conduct, while intended
as a kindness, is really a cruelty, since the exceed-
ingly low vitality of these animals is due to such
treatment rather than to any abnormality in their
conformation. This statement can readily be cor-
roborated by observing the difference in health of
the dog kept in this manner, and that of the same
type treated as he should be. In selecting a dog,
the toys should not be rejected by lovers of real
dogs because of prejudice based on the spoiled
specimens which may have been seen, for they are
really very desirable companions when given the
proper chance.

(1) Pekingese—The Pekingese is, by far, the
most desirable of all the toys. He is a strong, rugged,

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Selection of the Dog

healthy little animal and consequently very resistant
to disease. He is somewhat exclusive in his friend-
ships and occasionally exhibits a marked degree of
temper. His courage and boldness often acquire
for him an immunity against much deserved punish-
ment. Although seemingly combative, when it
comes to a showdown he is mostly bluff.

(2) Pomeranian.—The Pomeranian is a bright,
active, and affectionate little dog. Being very timid
and highly nervous he is often snappy with
strangers. He is not so vigorous as the Pekingese
nor does he possess as great a resistance to disease.
This weakness has been much exaggerated in late
years by the tendency of breeders to strive to pro-
duce exceptionally small specimens.

(3) Poodle——The Toy Poodle by far outnum-
bers all other toys. He is supposed to be very in-
telligent and is used extensively in animal acts.
Although toward their owners they are most affec-
tionate and loving, with others they are the most
treacherous dogs living. It is because of this that
they are so unpopular with all who are called upon
to handle strange dogs. Poodles are very sickly
animals, suffering much from indigestion, eczema
and acute pulmonary diseases. The eyes, almost
invariably, discharge a serous fluid which discolors
the hair around them. Their long white coats re-
quire much combing and bathing.

Small Dogs.—The terriers of the second group,
with the exception of the Boston, were developed

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Your Dog and Your Cat

because of their value in unearthing small game
and vermin which seek refuge in burrows, Since
they are expected to dig out their prey rather than
pursue it through the open field, they are small,
compact, and muscular. They are built low to the
ground, and for this reason require only a limited
amount of exercise. Through necessity they are
courageous and daring, and are born fighters. Not-
withstanding this they are amiable creatures and
make wonderful companions.

(1) Fox Terrier—The Fox Terrier is one of
the oldest and) best known dogs. He is a very
affectionate, courageous, and cheerful animal with
an alert expression, quick and active ways. Asa
rule he outlives all other breeds, often reaching six-
teen and eighteen years of age; occasionally he has
been reported to have lived for twenty years. Be-
cause he is too often overfed he frequently becomes
fat, unsightly, and asthmatic. If reared with chil-
dren he makes a wonderful companion and pro-
tector for them, but when he is not used to them is
not to be trusted.

(2) Scotch Terrier—This is the nicest all-
around dog for the house. He is a short-legged,
stockily built, rough-coated animal, possessing a
most wonderful disposition. He is very even-
tempered and gentle, and while not snappy with
strangers, possesses a total indifference toward any-
one but his master. His trustful eye, homely come-
liness, and whimsical playfulness combine to endear

128

Selection of the Dog

the Scottish Terrier strongly, and no dog is more
companionable or affectionate. The Sealyham,
West Highland, Cairn and Dandie Dinmont all
resemble the Scotty, except for color markings.
(3) Boston Terrier —The Boston Terrier is an
American made dog developed by crossing the Eng-
lish Bulldog and the Bull Terrier. This dog has
been bred, at least in late years, strictly as a high
class pet, and the results are very satisfactory. He
is a bright, playful, courteous little dog, stockily
built and well proportioned. His average weight is
twenty pounds; however, he is most desired in the
show ring at twelve to fifteen, but at this extreme
is apt to lose his rugged constitution. He makes
a desirable companion for any member of the
family from the child up.

(4) Dachshund—The Dachshund or Badger
Dog, as he is now known, is a mixture of hound
and terrier, developed to enter a badger hole and
attract the animal’s attention while he is being dug
out. This accounts for his extremely short legs
and long body. His disposition and manners well
fit a house dog.

(5) Bulldogs——The English and French Bull-
dogs, while not belonging to this class as far as
weight is concerned, are grouped here because of
their fitness for the house. They are too short-
legged and too short-winded to require much free-
dom. The English Bull is a good-natured gentle
dog, in spite of his forbidding appearance, and

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Your Dog and Your Cat

makes a safe and dependable family dog. The
French is more exclusive in his friendships, not so
extreme in conformation, and for this reason more
desirable. Both dogs are excellent with children
and of exceptional value as watchdogs.

Medium-sized Dogs.—The terriers of the third
class are much larger and more active than those
already described. They are more rangy in type
and are strong and husky. Because of their size
and activeness they require much freedom and
should not be confined to city flats. They are
“real dogs” and make suitable companions for men.

(1) Airedale-—The Airedale is the most popu-
lar large terrier in this country. He is fearless and,
though not particularly quarrelsome, never avoids
a fight. He is very intelligent, companionable, and
frolicsome.

(2) English Bull Terrier—This is a beautiful
and refined dog that will always attract attention.
He is popularly known as the fighting bull terrier,
and often carries his battle scars. When kept in
close confinement he grows fat and lazy and be-
comes unsightly.

(3) Doeberman Pinscher.—While this dog is a
comparatively new dog in this country, his delight-
ful personality should fast bring him into favor.
He is a “one man” dog and does not readily make
friends. But he is ever faithful and loyal to his
owner.

(4) Dalmatian—This dog is of undependable

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Selection of the Dog

disposition. Occasionally a specimen may be found
that is good-natured and friendly, but as a rule they
are very reserved and repel the attentions of any-
one but the master. He is a very active dog and re-
quires a great deal of freedom. In New York he
has come to be known as the fire dog, because of
the frequency with which he is found about fire
houses.

The Spitz, Samoyede, Chow, and Eskimo dogs
all have the same general characteristics, varying
only in size and color. They are strong, compact,
and husky, liberally covered with hair to protect
them from the severe cold of their native lands.
Although quite popular as pets it is hardly justifi-
able to confine them to the house because of their
heavy coats. They possess a very savage disposi-
tion which even their most intimate companions
find difficult to control.

Large Dogs.—All of this group of dogs are, in
their natural state, hard working animals. They
are bred for duties which require strength and
speed. Some of the largest, notably the Great Dane
and the St. Bernard, have the most amiable dis-
positions and cool even ter-ver, which particularly
fits them as companions for children. Their huge
size, however, eliminates them as pets except where
unlimited freedom can be provided.

(1) Collie—Of this class of dogs the collie is
most frequently seen in the city. This dog, a native
of Scotland, was developed to herd the flocks over

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Your Dog and Your Cat

the hills and mountains in all sorts of weather. To
bring him into the city and confine him as is neces-
sary, is very unjust to the animal as well as unsatis-
factory to the owner. This is unfortunate because
the dog is very desirable as a pet, but when his
freedom is limited disastrous results are bound to
follow sooner or later.

(2) Shepherd Dog.—Of late this dog has be-
come very popular and is finding his way in
large numbers into the city. He is a typical ‘“‘one
man’’ dog and is unexcelled as a watchdog. In fact
he is used extensively by the police for patrolling
the outlying districts of the city and has won great
favor by his skill in running down marauders. It
may be seen that this dog, being strongly built and
husky, requires much more liberty than he can pos-
sibly obtain if kept in the city home.

Accommodations — Apartment House. —In the
city and, especially in New York, the great majority
of dogs, as well as people, are, from necessity, con-
fined to the limitations of an apartment. Such
surroundings do not offer the dog much opportunity
to live a natural life. The house is usually crowded
with furniture and it is impossible for him to romp
about. For exercise he must be taken to the roof
or the street. He cannot be turned loose but must
follow his master at a slow pace. The duration of
such exercise depends wholly on the owner’s avail-
able time or his inclination to walk.

Large dogs should be left entirely out of con-

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Selection of the Dog

sideration when selecting a pet for the apartment
house. It is a great injustice to force a dog, used
to his freedom, into such confinement, for he is
little better off than the criminal in jail. The Collie,
Shepherd, Russian Wolfhound, Great Dane, Aire-
dale, and Irish Terrier are all too large and active
for these close quarters.

Even with these large dogs eliminated there is
still a large number of breeds from which to make
a choice. The toys are specially adapted for the
apartment. They have been bred and developed
precisely for such surroundings. In this class of
dogs there are sixteen choices of which the
Pekingese, Pomeranian, Toy Poodle, Maltese
Terrier and the English Toy Spaniels are readily
available at reasonable prices. The Skipperke and
Brussels Griffon are comparatively rare specimens
for those who desire something different from the
ordinary. Of the small dogs, the Boston Terrier,
Fox Terrier, Black and Tan, and the Dachshund
are common breeds; while the Scottish Terrier
group are more exclusive.

House and Yard.—Where a yard can be sup-
plied in which the animal can spend a large part of
his time, the range of choice can be considerably
broadened. Even though the dog does not exer-
cise a great deal, he will derive great benefit from
the open air and the feeling of freedom. Cats, birds,
and children offer a source of amusement which
tends to keep the dog in action. During the winter

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Your Dog and Your Cat

months he is stimulated to exercise by the cold.
Becoming hardened to this exposure the dog 1s
much less apt to fall prey to pulmonary diseases or
distemper. Besides the dogs of the second group,
the Chow, Samoyede, Spitz, and the terriers of the
third group are all adaptable to such conditions.
The Airedale is almost too large and active, how-
ever, for even this amount of freedom. The Collie
does not do well even when allowed the freedom of
the yard.

Country Estate-—For those who enjoy the pleas-
ures of a country home, with abundant grounds, the
choice of a dog is purely a matter of fancy.

Suitability to Purpose——The suitability of the
dog for the purpose for which he is intended 1s,
from the owner’s standpoint, very important. Most
of the city dogs are kept solely as pets, yet some
are used as watchdogs and a few for sporting pur-
poses. Many dogs are kept in the apartment for
breeding, but the practice is not to be encouraged,
because they lead such an abnormal life that they
are not very successful as breeders.

The Pet.—The disposition of the pet dog should
be harmonious with its owner’s, providing it is to
be the property of any one member of the family.
Each individual will have his or her ideas as to the
type of dog desired. Men, as a rule, prefer a large
or medium sized dog, that is strong, active, playful,
and intelligent. He should be fit for long hard
romps, of sufficient courage and fighting ability to

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Selection of the Dog

protect himself and his master. A dog that readily
learns little tricks is often a favorite with a man.
The Airedale, Irish and Boston Terriers, the French
and the English Bulldog, the Chow and the Doe-
berman Pinscher are all typical men’s dogs. Most
women desire a small, soft, cuddly, long-haired dog
which can easily be carried on the arm. They must
be even-tempered, have a loving, peaceful disposi-
tion, and above all be clean in their habits. The
dog must be of the type that is fond of much
pampering and petting. The Pekingese and Pom-
eranian are representatives of this type. The small
terriers, especially the Scotch and Sealyham, make
wonderful pets for women. Among the large dogs,
the Collie and Greyhound are excellent.

In selecting a dog for children great pains should
be taken to obtain a suitable companion. Children,
though not meaningly so, are generally very rough
and abusive to their toys and pets. They frequently
slap the animal, throw sticks at him, pull his hair
or tail, and in general maul him about. Some dogs.
will tolerate this treatment with apparent enjoy-
ment, while others absolutely will not endure it.
Dogs that have been brought up from puppyhood
with children usually play very carefully with
them. Still it is more or less of a breed character-
istic. Many stories are told of the gentleness of
the St. Bernard in caring for children. The Fox
Terrier, when reared with them, usually plays well
with children, but if brought in when a mature dog

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Your Dog and Your Cat

is not to be trusted too far. The English Bulldog
makes an excellent playfellow and protector of the
child. Long-haired dogs should be avoided, dogs
that are too large and boisterous are apt to hurt
the small child in harmless play, and the fight-
ing dog should never be chosen.

The Watchdog.—lt is highly important that a
watchdog should possess sufficient sagacity and in-
telligence to enable him to discern between friends
and foes, and to distinguish harmless visitors from
questionable characters. If the dog is simply ex-
pected to give notice of the appearance of strangers
by barking, one of the smaller breeds, such as the
Fox Terrier, will prove most desirable, for they are
more wide-awake, as a rule, than the larger breeds.
If the dog has to protect property without human
assistance, one of the larger breeds should be
selected. The Shepherd Dog is especially adapted
to this and has been trained for the purpose. The
Bulldog’s reputation for ferocity makes him a valu-
able watchdog and protector, for few people will
take liberties with him.

Sporting Dogs.—Dogs have been more highly de-
veloped for hunting than any other purpose to
which they have been put. The instinct for their
particular work is so firmly instilled in the breed
that in many instances puppies go about the work
without any training from human sources. The
sportsman will be interested in the dog particularly

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Selection of the Dog

adapted to his branch of sport and no other dog
can take his place.

Evil Points—Coat.—No dog can be found which
will be ideal, each will have some drawback. It is
well at this point to mention some of the offending
details. The heavy-coated dog is bound to be a
nuisance about the house while he is shedding.
This process is, at best, prolonged, and the hairs
attach themselves to the carpets, chairs, and clothes,
and are not readily removed. During this period
the coat looks rough and detracts much from the
animal’s appearance.

Color.—White dogs are not to be desired, be-
cause they must be bathed much more frequently
than dogs of a dark color. This is not only trouble-
some, but paves the way for skin diseases.

Noisy Dogs.—Dogs that bark loudly and a great
deal are not desirable in the apartment house because
of the disturbance it may cause. As a rule, dogs
are not welcome in any apartment, and tenants are
sure to object to a noisy animal. This often leads
to the exclusion of all dogs from the house.

Disposition—Ugly dogs should never be kept
where many people congregate. They are never to
be trusted and often a dog with a surly disposition
will attack a person apparently for no reason at all.
Trouble brought about in this way is very hard to
dispel.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

INDIVIDUAL

After deciding upon the breed that is most suit-
able for the conditions at hand it is next necessary
to select the individual dog. This is by no means
a simple task for the novice. Among the impor-
tant considerations, the first is the proper age at
which the dog will be acquired.

Age—Puppy.—During the first year the dog
passes through the most interesting period of his
life. No one, whether or not he cares for dogs,
can help being attracted by the mischievous and
playful pup. When reared in the household, he
becomes much more attached to his masters than
does the dog that is brought in as a mature animal.
When young children are to play with the dog it is
better that he become used to them while he is still
young. The dog can be more satisfactorily trained
asa puppy. The health of the grown dog depends
a great deal on the way he is cared for during the
first year, and no puppy that has had improper treat-
ment will ever attain the same development he
might have reached if he had had the proper start.

There are as many arguments against buying the
dog while a puppy as there are for it. During the
early weeks of his life, the puppy is very frail and
susceptible to outside influences. At weaning time
it is often hard to get food which will properly
agree with his system. Neglect at this time often
causes systemic disturbances which are difficult to

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Selection of the Dog

correct. Puppies are frequently infested with
worms, though not as often as some would have us
think. Because of this popular fancy, many very
young puppies have been so severely dosed with
worm concoctions that their sensitive digestive
mechanism has become greatly impaired.

At from three to four months puppies frequently
suffer from indigestion, worms, rickets, and eczema,
all of which, though not particularly dangerous if
attended to, may, when neglected, prove fatal.
During the first year the dog is very susceptible to
distemper and until he has acquired a natural re-
sistance this disease is very fatal, accounting for
more deaths than any other puppy ailment.

The development of the dog is very uncertain.
Even those who are experienced in handling dogs
find great difficulty in forecasting the future of the
pup. Puppies that show promise of developing into
beautiful specimens of the breed often turn out to
be complete failures; while others which show no
prospects, when young occasionally develop to be
winners. ‘This is more or less true of all breeds,
but is especially so in those where size and coat are
of prime importance. When the puppy fails to de-
velop to the expectations of the owner, he will be
likely to overlook the discrepancy because he has
become so attached to the animal that he will not
give him up.

Mature Dog.—In the purchase of a full-grown
dog the initial cost will, of course, be greater, but

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Your Dog and Your Cat

considering the work of rearing the animal and the
possible fatalities which the breeder must expect,
the price is not so high in proportion as for the
puppy. A dog at ten or eleven months of age at
seventy-five dollars is cheaper and a better buy than
a two months old puppy at twenty-five.

If the dog has had proper care, at the age of
one year, he should be a vigorous, healthy specimen,
possessing sufficient resistance to combat disease
successfully. On the other hand, if he has not had
the care, his condition will show it. By this time
the food should have been so regulated as to agree
best with his conditions, and any deviation from the
regular diet should not cause any serious upset. If
the dog has suffered from rickets, the ailment will
have been entirely overcome or otherwise be so
noticeable that the most casual observer could not
help but recognize it. He will have attained his full
development and any faults will be in full evidence.

Taking everything into consideration, the best age
at which to purchase a dog is from ten months to
one year.

Old Dog.—It is very unwise to take a dog past
three years old. At the best his span of life is
short and if his early years are already spent he
rapidly declines into old age. By the time he has
become a recognized member of the family, he has
reached an age at which his owner may expect to
lose him.

State of Health—When purchasing a dog it is

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Selection of the Dog

exceedingly important to know whether or not the
dog is sick. The man who has had considerable
experience with dogs will be able to determine this
with fair accuracy, but he who is having his first
experience had best employ a veterinarian to make
an examination of the animal before it is accepted.
When paying a large price this procedure is a good
insurance.

In making an examination of a dog, first observe
his general condition. Do not mistake an over-
distended stomach for flesh. If the dog is very
thin, some debilitating condition is present, and the
animal should be rejected. The expression should
be bright and the dog active. If he is dull and list-
less, his vitality has become lowered by some ab-
normal condition. The eyes should be bright, clear,
and free from discharge. This may have been re-
cently wiped away, but if not, the hair and skin
beneath the inner corners of the eye will be soiled.
The hair should be soft and glossy. <A dull coat is
significant of disease. The skin should be carefully
examined for patches void of hair, areas of redness,
scabs, sores, and mats of hair. In small puppies
the hair is often soiled by the fecal discharges.
When this is not cleaned away frequently the hair
becomes matted, the skin underneath is irritated,
and eczema develops. Careful tickling of the throat
will induce a cough should the dog be suffering
from laryngeal or bronchial trouble. Rough ma-
nipulation, however, will cause coughing in a well

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Your Dog and Your Cat

and healthy animal. If diarrhea is present to any
extent, the rectum will be sore and inflamed. In
dogs where the tail or ears have recently been
trimmed be sure that healing has taken place.

The general contour of the dog should be given
consideration. Bowed legs or enlargements of the
joints are suggestive of rickets. The dog should
be placed on his back and the abdomen examined
for swelling, which at the navel or in the groin are
indicative of hernias or ruptures. These are espe-
cially common in Pekingese. Do not allow the
salesman to explain away any abnormal condition,
especially if he seems to make light of it, for it
may be of a serious nature.

The conditions to be especially looked for in young
dogs are, distemper, eczema, mange, rickets, hernias,
and intestinal disorders. Distemper may be recog-
nized by coughing, sneezing, discharge from the eyes
or nose, diarrhea, emaciation, and a general look of
weakness. Eczema and mange are almost identical
in their outward aspect. A diagnosis can be made
only by use of the microscope, and so a dog hav-
ing any sort of skin lesion should be looked upon
with suspicion. In rickets the forelegs become
bowed and at the wrist, or first joint up, there is
a distinct hump. The hind legs bend inward so
that the hocks come close together. The hair is
dry, dull, and staring. The dog is thin and the
abdomen much distended. Although the dog may
be playful he soon becomes tired. Intestinal dis-

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Selection of the Dog

orders, as indicated by poor appetite and diarrhea,
are very common in caged dogs. Such a condition
is difficult to correct and is frequently fatal. The
dog should not be accepted if he shows the slightest
tendency toward loose bowels.

Breed Characteristics—The importance of the
breeding depends upon the sort of dog desired and
the amount of money to be expended. Naturally
the scrub dog would show no signs of good breed-
ing, and the price must be correspondingly low.
In well-bred dogs the value increases in proportion
to their fitness as specimens of the type. It is very
difficult for anyone not acquainted with the prevail-
ing market prices of the particular breed to de-
termine a fair value of a dog in question. The
amateur when paying any considerable amount for
his animal would do well to employ some one ac-
quainted with the breed to help in the selection.
Otherwise it will be necessary for him to make an
exhaustive study of the breed from descriptive liter-
ature, and by visiting the dog shows. He must
obtain a working knowledge of the points of value
in the type which he desires, but he must remember
that no perfect dog has yet been bred and therefore
he will find faults in all. The ability to choose the
one in which the faults are of the least consequences
will show to what extent he has studied his dog.

Disposition and Manners.—The disposition of
the pet dog is a very important characteristic. Ugly,
snappy dogs are not desirable around the house.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

Unless the dog will allow the buyer to handle him
freely, in the presence of his owner, he should be
looked upon with suspicion.

Unclean dogs are very undesirable. Few dealers
will guarantee that a dog is house broken. It can,
of course, never be expected of puppies. Dogs that
are confined to a cage offer excellent evidence of
their cleanliness. A naturally clean dog will refrain
from using the cage as long as possible, and will
thereafter carefully avoid it, but a filthy dog will
promptly proceed to smear his cage as much as
possible. A healthy dog that conducts himself in
this way can never be trained to cleanly habits
about the house.

Sex.—Male dogs are usually preferred. Females
are troublesome during their period of season. This
inconvenience can be remedied by submitting the dog
to an operation. An unsexed female is in many ways
superior to a male as a pet, and is more desirable
with children.

CHAPTER: VIIT
THE CAT

Its CARE

Housing.—Cats are usually allowed the unlimited
freedom of the house and because of their natural
desire to climb are often found perched on some
high and narrow ledge. There are certain condi-
tions which must to some extent limit their range
of movements. They must never be allowed in
the room when meals are being served nor should
they be left alone in the kitchen when food is within
easy reach on the table, for cats are at heart born
thieves—necessary to their existence in the natural
state—and no matter how highly bred or well-man-
nered they may be, they are apt to fall into bad
habits if the temptation is too great. Since cats are
generally believed to be carriers of disease they
should be forbidden from the sick room and nursery.
While it has not been our experience that cats are
dangerous around babies, many mothers, nurses,
and some doctors think that the cat through jeal-
ousy will seek to kill the newborn infant. This is
hard for cat lovers to believe and is likely to be
ridiculed by them, but there are cases on record
where cats have apparently gone into the crib and
curled up to sleep, and by getting too close to the
baby’s face have smothered it. While I believe this

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Your Dog and Your Cat

to be accident rather than design on the part of
the cat, still it is well to avoid the possible danger.
When the windows are open in summer, cats are
prone to go out on the window ledge to enjoy the
sunshine and fresh air, and frequently when they
venture too far they slip and fall to the ground.

Long-haired cats are bound to prove troublesome
if allowed to use the chairs or other furniture at
will, because of the great tendency of their coats
to fall out. This may be avoided by supplying for
their use a pillow or by covering some of the chairs
with cotton pads which can be easily removed when
a person wishes to use a chair. Except for this rea-
son they do not need a special bed, but if it is de-
sirable a box or basket may be provided for their use.

A pan of sawdust, sand, or torn bits of paper
should be kept in some convenient place for their
use in attending to their functions. They must have
free access to this if they are to be clean with their
habits. Ordinarily it is sufficient to clean the pan
once a day, but there are cats who are so scrupu-
lously clean that they will hesitate long before using
the pan for a second time, and in such cases it is
well to encourage the habit.

Exercise.—Since cats do not require the exercise
that dogs do, the freedom of the house is usually
sufficient for their needs and they are rarely taken
out of doors. Where a yard is available it is often
well to allow the cat to go out, but in the crowded
city there is great danger of their contracting dis-

146

The Cat

ease from the alley cats. The tendency of cats to
climb often results in fractures or other injuries,
while fights with other cats or with dogs account
for a variety of wounds.

Vital Functions.—Keeping a check on the func-
tions is of even more importance in the cat than in
the dog. Being more closely confined there is a
greater natural tendency toward constipation and in
males there is a frequent stoppage of urination from
calculi. Since cats when sick hide away and brood,
rather than show any outward manifestation of ill-
ness, trouble is not so quickly detected, and if the
condition of the functions is known, sickness will
be anticipated much more quickly. In Persian cats
the hair about the rectum becomes easily attached
to the stool, which, as it becomes matted and dry,
prevents further passages until it has been cleaned
away.

Since the cat subsists largely on a meat diet, the
feces are not very copious and there is rarely more
than one movement a day. The stool when normal
is black in color, cylindrical in shape and firm and
moist in consistency. Very dry stools are abnormal,
as well as very loose or watery passages. Diarrhea
stools may be either yellow or black in color, and
may be tinged with blood. Mucus may, at times,
be present in the movements. Passages of urine
may occur one or more times a day. They are
usually abundant in quantity and of a strong char-
acteristic odor.

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Your Dog and Your Cat

The cat should not be allowed to go more than
forty-eight hours without a movement of the
bowels, nor twenty-four hours without a passage
of urine. In male cats, straining attempts at urina-
tion without results are sufficient indication of
trouble to require immediate attention.

Coat.—The coat of the cat should receive daily
combing and brushing. This is of especial impor-
tance in those of the long-haired variety, since their
hair so readily snarls and mats. Should this
happen, the mat must be removed, either by teas-
ing it away bit by bit from the underlying hair,
or by clipping it off. Bathing is rarely, if ever
necessary and since cats so strongly object to water
it is best avoided. Should it be attempted the cat
must be thoroughly dried afterward to prevent its
catching cold.

Teeth, Nails, Etc.—The teeth of the cat do not
cause much trouble. They seldom become covered
with tartar and so do not quickly decay. Cats
rarely suffer from discharging eyes nor are they
frequently subject to injury. The ears of the cat
are often affected with canker and so it is necessary
to clean them occasionally with a dry cotton swab.
The cat’s nails are exceedingly sharp and it is some-
times advisable to cut away or file the very sharp
points. This operation, however, deprives the ani-
mal of a very effective weapon. Shedding of the
nails is promoted by scratching on the carpets, chair
legs, doorposts, etc. Occasionally the cat is sup-

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The Cat

plied with extra toes which do not come into bear-
ing on the floor. These nails are not subject to
wear and if allowed to grow may penetrate the
footpad and cause a very painful sore. They should
be occasionally clipped or filed to prevent such an
occurrence,

MEDICAL CARE

Medication.—Cats do not take kindly to medi-
cines, nor do they withstand much handling, thus
medical treatment is very limited. There are many
medicines for which they have no tolerance. These
include disinfectants, especially those of the coal-
tar group. They are particularly susceptible to
carbolic acid. Disinfectants must not be used on
the cat, nor on anything with which the animal will
come in contact.

Sick cats prefer quiet and darkness, and seek to
hide away. Therefore, they should be handled as
little as possible. Never should they be placed in
strange quarters when it is in any way possible
to care for them at home. The very change of
surroundings in many cases will be sufficient to cause
death to the animal. Cats succumb very quickly
to disease, and so it is essential that treatment
should be given early in the course of the illness if
the outcome is to be favorable.

Administration of Medicines.—There are times
when it is necessary to give medicines to the cat,
and the most satisfactory manner is by the oral

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Your Dog and Your Cat

administration of tablets. The cat can be held on
a table by the forelegs, in the same manner as de-
scribed for the dog; he can be held by grasping
the forelegs with one hand and the hind legs with
the other, or better, he can be rolled in a Turkish
towel, with only the head projecting out. The
upper jaw is grasped by the operator from above
with the thumb and the forefinger of the left hand,
and the tablet carried back into the mouth with a
spoon. Liquids may be given in the same manner.
Some cats do not seriously object to taking liquid
medicines, while with others it is well-nigh impos-
sible to administer them. Unless they take them
readily, it is better when possible to resort to tab-
lets. Suppositories may be easily used in the rec-
tum, but enemas are hard to give and of uncertain
action. When giving suppositories it may be more
easily done if the cat is rolled in a towel. Cats
will not tolerate inhalations. Because of their small
size vaginal douches are impractical. Skin dis-
eases are treated in much the same manner as in
dogs, but the applications must be mild and non-
toxic. Ointments are applied sparingly and over
small areas.

COMMON DISEASES OF THE CAT

Digestive Disturbances— The Mouth. — Bones
frequently become lodged around the teeth or in
the throat. Needles and pins are often found pierc-

150

The Cat

ing the mucous membranes. Thread is sometimes
swallowed and often becomes caught around the
tongue, preventing its passage from the digestive
tract. When the needle is attached it usually be-
comes lodged in the cheek or the roof of the mouth.
The presence of these foreign bodies as well as
decaying or coated teeth cause an inflammation of
the mucous membranes.

Symptoms.—A thick viscid substance which may
be white or brownish red in color drools from the
corners of the mouth. The animal refuses food
but may attempt to drink milk or water. There is
great depression and if the condition lasts for sev-
eral days the animal rapidly loses flesh.

Treatment.—Removal of the foreign body, tartar,
or loose teeth, followed by swabbing the mouth
cavity with a warm solution of boric acid.

Vomiting.—This occurs as a symptom of a dis-
order of the stomach. It may be the result of a
slight upset due to indigestion or worms, or fol-
lowing the ingestion of some irritating material
such as hair, or if it persists and becomes violent
it is an indication of a severe inflammation of the
stomach. The vomit may consist of the offending
material, it may be a white froth, or it may be
yellow, as a result of the involvement of the liver.
In severe cases it may be streaked with blood or
be reddish-brown in color. Constipation usually
occurs with vomiting, and, in fact, may be con-
sidered as a contributing cause to it. The appetite

I51

Your Dog and Your Cat

in mild attacks may remain good, but the ingestion
of food at this time will only tend to make the
condition worse. In severe attacks the animal will
refuse all food but will drink a great deal of water.
In the later stages it will sit over the water dish
as though it wanted to drink, but could not.

Treatment.—Withhold all food and drink in
order to give the stomach a much needed rest. The
bowels may be emptied by the use of a glycerine
suppository in the rectum or by giving a cathartic
tablet containing two or three grains of cascara
sagrada per mouth, or milk of magnesia may be
given in teaspoonful doses every three or four
hours. With this may be given five grains of sub-
nitrate of bismuth. Should the vomiting continue
for more than twenty-four hours it should receive
more vigorous attention.

Constipation.—This may occur in animals fed on
nothing but raw beef because the meat is so thor-
oughly digested that there is not sufficient residue
to make a copious stool. However, the usual causes
are improper food, foreign bodies, and poor diges-
tion.

Symptoms.—Aside from the absence of a passage
the cat may act languid, refuse food, and later start
to vomit.

Treatment—The movements of the animal
should be noted each day in order to keep a check
on their occurrence as well as their consistency.
Should they become hard, oil should be given, either

152

The Cat

on the food or with a spoon. For this purpose olive
oil or mineral oil works nicely. When it is observed
that the cat has not had a movement for a period of
twenty-four hours, oil should be administered dur-
ing the next day, a teaspoonful, once, twice or even
three times, should no movement occur from less.
Should the bowels fail to move during the second
day, a suppository may be used. If this does not
bring forth a movement, or should the cat start to
vomit, the veterinarian should be immediately
called. |

Diarrhea.—This may be due to improper food or
it may be a symptom of an inflammation of the
bowels due to cold, infection, or worms. Milk
often disagrees with the cat, causing a violent
diarrhea after each feeding. Some cats cannot take
milk in any form, while others may take raw milk
with impunity and develop diarrhea from evapo-
rated or condensed milk. In other animals the re-
verse may be true. When it is thought that milk
may be the cause it should be discontinued. If the
diarrhea stops, another form of milk may be given
in order to see if there may be any that is agree-
able to the cat in question. If all forms of milk
tend to cause a similar upset, it should be entirely
eliminated from the diet. Diarrhea due to a cold
will usually be accompanied with a fever and prob-
ably a watery discharge from the eyes or nose, or
both. There is an infectious disease, occurring in
cats characterized by vomiting and diarrhea, which

153

Your Dog and Your Cat

is very fatal and very contagious. Worms may,
in some cases, be the cause of diarrhea. Diarrhea
stools are usually black, but if the liver is involved
they are yellow in color. In number the stools may
range from one to twenty a day, and in quantity
from a few drops to two tablespoonfuls.

Treatment.—All food and drink should be with-
held. If possible, a teaspoonful of castor oil should
be given, or several doses of milk of magnesia may
be indicated. After the subsequent cleansing of the
bowels, if the diarrhea does not stop, subnitrate of
bismuth should be given in five-grain doses, every
two to four hours. The diarrhea should not be
allowed to persist for any length of time.

Hair Balls—While hair balls may occur in any
cat, they are more frequently found in those of the
long-haired variety. In the process of cleaning
their coats the loose hairs are picked up by the
tongue and swallowed. If but a few hairs are taken
at a time they pass on into the intestines, become
mixed with the food and are passed out with the
stool. When large numbers of hairs are swallowed
they tend to fasten themselves together in the form
of a ball. This may happen either in the stomach
or in the intestines. Thus, the hair ball may be
thrown up after it has become of considerable size,
or it may be passed as a stool. When the accumu-
lation is great, it may form an obstruction in the
intestine which is followed by an inflammation of
the bowels. Hair may remain in the stomach for

154

The Cat

years without causing any appreciable trouble. One
hair ball was removed from the stomach of a cat
after death, which was as large as the ordinary
baseball.

Symptoms.—There is no regular trend of symp-
toms exhibited by hair balls. There may be evi-
dence first of irritation of the stomach as indicated
by repeated attacks of vomiting—the vomit consist-
ing only of white froth. In other cases there will
be evidence of constipation, which in a few days
will be followed by vomiting. The appetite will, of
course, be impaired, and the cat will show depres-
sion. Many cats habitually throw up a hair ball
at regular intervals.

Treatment.—A teaspoonful of castor oil will
often cause vomiting of the hair ball from the
stomach. If on the other hand, it is located in the
intestines it may cause its passage. However, for
this effect, mineral oil in repeated doses is much
to be preferred. These cases should not be neglected
as serious results may follow.

Worms.—Young cats are occasionally infested
with round worms, while tapeworm is rare. Asa
rule the first evidence of trouble will be noticed
when the animal suddenly throws up a worm.
Since cats are very susceptible to any of the poisons
active enough to disturb the worms, their adminis-
tration should be carried out only by a veterinarian.

Diseases of the Urinary Organs.—While inflam-
mation of the kidneys may occasionally develop in

155

Your Dog and Your Cat

cats its diagnosis is very difficult. The most fre-
quent urinary trouble occurs in male cats, due to
the presence of calculi in the urethra. The very
small stones are formed in the bladder in large num-
bers, and are forced down into the urethra as the
cat urinates. Because of the very small caliber of
this canal the stones become imbedded in it and
their removal is very difficult. When the stones
are of sufficient size to obstruct the canal urination
is impossible. As the cat strains in the attempt the
stone becomes more firmly imbedded. ‘The disease
may be diagnosed by observing these attempts at
urination, and in their event the animal must be
rushed to the veterinarian with all possible haste.
Even then the outlook is not very good for if the
offending stone is removed it will only be a matter
of time when more will pass down into the urethra
and cause further trouble.

Diseases of the Skin—Eczema.—tThe cat suffers
much from falling of the coat, dandruff, and
eczema. The conditions are very closely allied and
are primarily cue to disorders in digestion brought
about by faulty feeding. In young cats, worms are
frequently a contributing cause. Confinement and
lack of exercise also play an important part.

Symptoms.—Eczema starts with a falling of the
coat and scratching. As it progresses there may be
evidence of dandruff. But when it becomes severe,
skin lesions are noticed. Pimples may form in
various places over the body especially just anterior

156

The Cat

to the base of the tail. There may be areas of
dry, rough scales, or the lesion may consist of a
reddened moist patch, devoid of hair. As the dis-
ease advances the lesions increase in size and spread
to other parts of the body.

Treatment.—If the diet is bad it should be cor-
rected. If the cat is fat, he should be put on short
rations. If worms are present, they should be
treated. Unless the lesion is of very long standing
it will probably respond to careful applications of
borated vaseline, which should be applied sparingly,
and well rubbed in, so that the cat will not in clean-
ing himself lick up too much of it. If the condi-
tion persists for any length of time internal medica-
tion and more vigorous external treatment will be
needed.

Mange.—Mange first appears about the head and
ears and gradually spreads back over the body. The
lesion consists of a very thick crust of scales of
grayish-brown color which gives the skin the appear-
ance of being very much thickened. If the disease
involves a large part of the skin area it is ques-
tionable whether or not it is advisable to attempt
treatment. In the early stages and in mild cases
sulphur and lard may be applied. However, it is
much better to consult a veterinarian while there is.
still a chance of saving the animal.

Fleas ——During the summer months cats suffer

greatly from fleas. Because of their susceptibility
_ to drugs great care must be exercised in the selec-

157

Your Dog and Your Cat

tion of the treatment. Persian insect powder is one
of the safest remedies. The cat is placed on a
newspaper or sheet and the powder is sprinkled
over the body and worked well into the hair with
the hands, about twenty minutes being spent in the
process. By this time the fleas will begin to mi-
grate toward the head and as they come to the sur-
face they may be picked off and dropped in a strong
disinfectant solution. Those which drop off upon
the paper may be disposed of in the same manner.
After all the fleas possible have been removed the
cat should be given a good brushing to remove most
of the powder. This treatment must be repeated
frequently as long as any fleas remain.

If it is possible to bathe the cat a solution com-
posed of one tablespoonful of kerosene and a pint
of milk can be rubbed into the fur, and after an
interval of half an hour the animal must be bathed.
About two or three treatments, at intervals of three
days, will be necessary to free the cat of her pests.

Black Flag should never be used. Coal-tar dis-
infectants are also too toxic to use around cats.

Organs of Reproduction—Estrum.—The period
of estrum in a cat occurs at more or less irregular
intervals of two to four months. In regular breed-
ing animals the period is usually found constant to
each individual. The discharge is spare in quantity
and thus is rarely observed, but the nervous excite-
ment attendant to the function is such that there will
be no doubt in the mind of the owner as to its

158

The Cat

cause. The cat cries a great deal, in a peculiar tone,
and thus breeders have come to name the function
“calling.’’ In addition to this the animal will roll
about on the floor, on cushions, and become par-
ticularly excited if given catnip. They are very
lovable and seek much attention and petting.

During this period if kittens are not desired the
cat should be kept under strict surveillance.

Cystic Ovaries.—In female cats, especially those
that are finely bred, the ovaries frequently become
diseased. This may consist of a simple inflamma-
tion, or a cyst may be formed. The effect of this
condition is to increase the frequency and severity
of the period of season. The calling becomes very
loud, constant, and annoying, and the excitement to
touch is very much increased. The only treatment
is operative.

Castration Female cats are made much more
desirable as pets if they are altered. This is a more
or less serious operation, but when carried out
with strict adherence to good clean surgery by a
skillful operator much of the danger is eliminated.
The proper age at which the operation may be per-
formed is from nine months to one year.

Castration of males is ordinarily considered a
simple operation. In city bred animals of low re-
sistance trouble sometimes follows, and so the opera-
tion should be performed as early as possible to
minimize the danger.

159

Your Dog and Your Cat

FEEDING

Foods.—Of the meats, raw beef is the most pre-
ferable food for cats. This should make up the
major part of the diet. Boiled and roast beef,
lamb, or veal may also be used in limited quantities.
Raw liver is also very good, and because of its
laxative action is often desirable. Boiled or fried
liver, however, should never be given.

Cereals may be given to the cats that like them,
in limited quantities. Farina, Cream of Wheat, and
oatmeal, covered with milk, will help to give body
to the diet. Some vegetables, such as spinach,
string beans, and carrots, may also be given. There
are on the market cat foods which are by many
highly recommended. Bread may often be given
when moistened with milk.

Milk may be given freely, provided the cat does
not show a weakness to it. Should it cause diar-
thea, its use must be discontinued. Cats can have
free access to water at all times, but as a rule they
do not care much for it.

Feeding.—The cat should be fed at least twice a
day. The quantity of food allowed must depend on
the age and general condition of the animal. Grow-
ing cats will require more in proportion to their
size than those already matured. A fully developed
animal in good condition will require only enough
food to maintain an even weight. The food should
be given at regular intervals and in regular amounts.

160

The Cat

The cat should not be allowed to gorge itself at
one meal, and then go for one or two feedings with
only a small quantity.

When weaning kittens it is perhaps advisable first
to accustom them to taking milk from a saucer.
Cereal may then be added in small quantities, and
by increasing the amount they will learn to eat
some of the bulky foods which give body to the
diet. When they are readily taking the cereal they
may then be given meat in small quantities.

INDEX

Accommodations, 132

Airedale, 125, 130

Airing rooms, 2, 47

Anal pouches, infection of, 60

Apartment house, 132

Automobile accidents, pre-
vention of, 8

Bathing:
dog, 20
bath, how to give, 22
frequency of, 21
taking out after, 23
cat, 145
Bed, 4
cleaning, 4
Bedding, 2
mats, 2
shavings, 2
Beef, 94
Biting at tail, 60
Blanket, 7
Bones, 52, 56, 96
Boston Terrier, 125, 129
Bread, 98
Breasts, care after whelping,

90
Breeding, 80
advisability, 80
necessity, 81
Bronchitis, 62
Broth, 100
Bulldog, 125, 129
as a watchdog, 136

Candy, 100
Care:

dog, I

cat, 145
Castration, cat, 159
Cat r45
Catarrh of the nose, 61
Cereals, 99
Characteristics, 143

of the breeds, 126
Children, the dog for, 135
Chorea, 66
Chow, 125, 131
Classification of animals, 93
Classification of breeds, 124
Cleaning:

bedding, 4

coats, 20

dog house, 4

feeding dishes, 4

puppies, 106

- Clipping, 23

infection from, 24
Coat:

dog, 17, 137
bathing, 20
brushing, 19
care of, 17
cleaning, 20
clipping, 23
description of, 18
drying, 23
long-haired, 19
oiling the hair, 25

Index

Coat:
dog, oils for, 25
plucking, 19
shedding, 137
short-haired, 18
wire-haired, 19
cat, 148
Cold, application of, 42
Cold in the head, 61
Collar, 6, 61
Collie, 125, 131
Conception, false, 84
Conformation, 125
Constipation:
dog, 56, 97
cat, 152
Control of dogs, 115
for medication, 33
on the street, 8
Cystic ovaries, cat, 159

Dachshund, 125, 129
Dalmatian, 125, 130
Defecation:
dog, 16
frequency of, 15
method of, 16
cat, 147
Diarrhea:
dog, 55 |
water in, I14
ty Cairn 5S
Digestive tract of animals, 93
Diseases of:
») @at, 150
dog, 49
digestion, 49
respiration, 61
skin, 70
urinary tract, 67
Dislocations, 78

Disposition, 137, 143

Distemper, 45, 64

Doeberman Pinscher,
130

Dog crackers, 98

Dog house, 3

Drying after bath, 23

125;

Ears, 29
canker of, 30
care of, 29
Eclampsia, go
Eczema:
dog, 70
cat, 156
Enemas, 37
English Bulldog, 125, 129
as a pet, 135
as a watchdog, 136
English Bull Terrier, 125, 130
Estrum:
dog, 81
bathing during, 83
care during, 82
period of, 81
cat, 158
Evacuations, 14
frequency, 15
External applications, 41
Exercise:
dog, 5
amount, II
freedom of the house, 1
frequency, 12
need of, 5
regularity, 12
roof, 9
street, 6
yard, 9
cat, 146
Eyes, 30

164

Index

Feces, 14
frequency, 15
Feeding:
dog, 102
bottle, 105
breast, 102
dishes, 4
forced, 113
frequency, 107
improper, 112
mature dogs, 110
overfeeding, 112
place for, 4
puppy, 102, 105, 107, 108
special, 111
cat, 160
Fish, 97
Fleas:
dog, 75
cat, 157
Food, 94
' analysis, 93
cat, 160
puppies, 106
medicine in, 36
quantity, 100
requirements, 92
Fox Terrier, 125, 128
Fowl, 97
Fractures, 78
French Bulldog, 125, 129
Fruits, 100

Hair balls, cat, 154

Harness, 6

Health, importance
buying, 140

Heart, 96

Heat, application of, 42

Home treatment, 45

Horse meat, 95

when

Hospital, 47
House-breaking, 120
Housing:

dog, I

cat, 145
Hygiene, 47

Indigestion, 49

Individuals, selection of, 138

Infection of anal pouches, 60

Inflammation of stomach and
intestines, 51

Inhalations, 39

Injuries, 76

Intoxication, 53

Lamb, 95
Laryngitis, 61
Lice, 75
Liver, 96
Lung, 96

Manners, 8, 118, 143
Mange:
dog, 13
cat, 157
Mating, 83
Mats, 2
Meats, 94
spiced, 96
Medication:
dog, 33
cat, 149
Medicines:
Beyey, (Sari.
administration of, 33
use and abuse of, 43
cat, 149
ilk:

dog, 100
lack of, in bitches, 104

165

Index

ee rere Eee

Milk:
dog,
superabundance, 105
cat, 153, 160
Mouth, diseases of, cat, 150
Muzzle, 7

Nails:
dog, 31
cat, 148

Nursing, 104

Oils for hair, 25
Oral medication, 33
Ovaries, cystic, cat, 159

Pan, 5, 121
Parturition, 85
difficult, 87
Pekingese, 124, 126
Pet, 134
Pills, administration of, 35
Pneumonia, 62
Poisons, 37
Pomeranian, 124, 127
Poodle, 124, 127
Pork, 96
Pregnancy, 84
false, 85
Puppies, 138
care of infant, 103
delivery of, 85
Puppy crackers, 98
Puppy meal, 98

Qualifications, 123

Rectal medication, 37
Roof for exercise, 9

Sawdust, 5, 121
Scotch Terrier, 125, 128

Season, 81
Selection of:
breed, 123
dog, 123
individual, 138
Shavings, 4
Shepherd Dogs, 125, 132
Size, 124
large dogs, 125, 131
medium dogs, 125, 130
small dogs, 125, 127
toys, 124, 126
Skin diseases:
dog, 70
cat, 156
Sleeping baskets, 2
Sleeping box, 3
Sliding on the floor, 60
Soap, 21
Sore throat, 61
Sporting dogs, 136
Stones, 56
Street for exercise, 6
Suitability, 134
Suppositories, 39
Sex, 144

Tartar, 27
Teeth, 26
cat, 148
decayed, 28
eruption, 26
loose, 28
number, 26
permanent, 26
puppy, 26
Toilet, 5
Toothache, 28
Toy dogs, 124, 126
Training, 115
age, 116

166

Index

Training, house-breaking, 120 | Vital functions:

manners, 118 cat, 147
methods, 117 puppy, 106
relation to health, 13
Urinary tract, diseases of: Watchdogs, 136
dog, 67 Water, 113
cat, 155 Weaning, 108
Urine, 16 Whelping, 85

care after, 89

; ats Wire for exercising, 10
Vaginal medication, 40 8

Weal or Worms:

Vegetables, 99 ee Ly ¢ &

oe Wounds, 76
Og, 54

Cat, Tx Yard, 9

(1)

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