r
AN D Alto
I
IO,OOO MILES
BY
LAND AND SEA.
BY REV. W. W. X ROSS.
TORONTO :
JAMES CAMPBELL & SON.
1876.
rary
TO
A DISTINGUISHED STATESMAN AND TRUE FRIEND,
MOST HONORED WHERE BEST KNOWN,
THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED,
WITH SENTIMENTS OF THE HIGHEST ESTEEM,
BY
PREFACE.
RAVEL ! said the physician ; and a very
pleasant prescription it was. But where ?
Europe by all means ; everybody goes there,
said others. There is a " time to every purpose
under the sun " but is it a time to go a-gleaning
in foreign fields when the harvest at home stands
ungathered ? Lack of culture there may often be,
even exceeding roughness, and yet the virgin soil
of this New World shall yield a rich return.
Dwellers in cities, shrinking from the din and
dust of thoroughfares, consumed with the fever of
a fast age, pining for pure air, long for a change
to go aside into desert places, or to climb, if
only for a little space, to mountain scenes and solitude
" Where rose the mountains there to him were friends ;
Where rolled the ocean thereon was his home ;
Where a blue sky and glowing clime extends,
He had the passion and the power to roam ;
The desert, forest, cavern, breakers' foam,
Were unto him companionship."
VI PREFACE.
All this " companionship J> shall the Childe Harold of to-
day find unsurpassed in our Western World. The Trans-
Continental Railroad has brought within easy reach a
land as full of fascination as ever the scenes of Arabian
Nights were to our youthful years.
That many notions of the country beyond the Rocky
Mountains are false, or at the best but crude, there is no
denying. The traveller cannot "take stock" to use
their own pet phrase in the statements of every West-
erner ; not that there is always an intention to deceive, but
the high pressure under which they have lived for the
last twenty-five years has produced what an American
himself has aptly termed an " exaggerated Yankee." Still,
on travelling through the land one finds variety of character,
peculiarity of custom, freaks of nature, productiveness of
soil, wealth of minerals, breadth of prairie, grandeur of
forest and magnificence of mountain scenery often exceed-
ing the most enlarged expectation. Who has ever
pictured the Yosemite ? Watkins has photographed it ;
Bierstadt painted it ; ready pen and eloquent tongue have
described it, and yet all have failed. The half has not
been told us. It is well worth while to come from afar
to see for one's self.
Not knowing that anything concerning the Far West
has been published in a permanent form within the
Dominion, and hoping that what I have written will
give some pleasure to all, as well as furnish a portion of
wholesome food to hungering youth, I venture, without
farther plea, to add these gleanings of travel to the goodly
sheaves of other literature already gathered by Canadian
hands.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. PAGE
THE LAKES 9
CHAPTER II.
THE PRAIRIES 19
CHAPTER III.
MIDWAY ACROSS THE CONTINENT 28
CHAPTER IV.
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS 36
CHAPTER V.
ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS 50
CHAPTER VI.
MORMONDOM 58
CHAPTER VII.
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT 77
CHAPTER VIII.
SIERRAS TO THE SEA 93
Vlll CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IX. PAGE
SAN FRANCISCO no
CHAPTER X.
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER 125
CHAPTER XL
THE CHINESE 143
CHAPTER XII.
MINING 159
CHAPTER XIII.
AGRICULTURE 166
CHAPTER XIV.
THE DIGGER INDIANS 178
CHAPTER XV.
THE GEYSERS 7 185
CHAPTER XVI.
THE BIG TREES 198
CHAPTER XVII.
THE YOSEMITE 209
CHAPTER XVIII.
ON THE PACIFIC 237
CHAPTER XIX.
PANAMA 254
CHAPTER XX.
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS , ,. 261
CHAPTER XXI.
ON THE ATLANTIC 79
TEN THOUSAND MILES
BY
LAND AND SEA.
,
CHAPTER I.
THE LAKES.
|N the eve of Dominion Day, 1874, I started
Westward. Taking, as tourists having time
usually do, the route of the Northern Lakes,
we run by rail to Sarnia, and there change to
steamer for the head of Lake Superior. As it is
one trip too early for summer travel through these
chilly waters, the pleasure-seekers are few ; the com-
pany is composed chiefly of emigrants bound for
Manitoba. A few are going by the Red River route,
but more overland, from Thunder Bay. Among
them is a party sent out by the Government on a
Geological Survey, their destination being hundreds
of miles beyond Fort Garry. If prospered in the way,
10 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
they will probably be absent four or five years. Some
leave behind wives and children. At times they make
merry over the matter ; at other times there is no mis-
taking the sound " at each remove they drag a lengthen-
ing chain."
Suffering is the price of progress. The foundations of
civilized lands are laid in the pains of the pioneer. When
the fathers have fallen in the far North-West, and the
children, " as princes," shall dwell in that land of plenty,
let them remember the sowing in tears.
Goderich, Kincardine, Southampton, all prosperous
places, where we touch to take on freight and passengers,
are swarming with excursionists the whole country
seems to have come to town. Passing Great Manitoulin
and other islands, we sight Bruce Mines, on the north
shore of Lake Huron, wearing in the distance a sleepy
look. What a wintry welcome neither man nor boy,
not even a dog at the wharf. The steamer signals our
coming with shrill prolonged screaming. The long line
of shore, the receding hills, the far away mountains,
all answer back, but there is no sign from man or beast.
Dwellings are scattered along the shore, but the dwellers
have departed. At last, there is the show of life, at least
its outline. In an open door-way, stock-still, like Pompeii's
petrified sentinel, stands a human form.
Landing a man to take the ropes, we managed to make
fast to a rickety old wharf. Clambering over a pile of
cordwood the only tokens of trade at this end of the
THE LAKES. II
town we reach the rotten planks, and by various leap-
ings and windings, escape the holes, and stand on terra
firma. Keeping close to the mail-bag, we made for the
other end of the town, where there is life and considerable
activity. The Wellington Mines, which absorbed the
Bruce, are worked with some vigor. Around us are vast
piles of refuse ore, quartz crushed to the fineness of grains
of wheat " invaluable," a passenger suggested, " for
gravelling garden walks. "
Healthy, rosy-cheeked children just out from school
flock around us, offering for sale well-worn bits of copper
ore. Churches abound a needless number even at the
height of prosperity but all are deserted save one. This
place is another monument of the " ups and downs " of
mining interests.
A few miles bring us into the St. Mary's River, a nar-
row, winding stream with grassy and well- wooded shores,
presenting a great variety of charming scenery. Naviga-
tion being too dangerous in the darkness that has over-
taken us, the steamer lays-to till morning at Garden
River. On the American side is the French population,
quickly recognised by their trim whitewashed houses. On
the Canada side is a mixture of many nationalities, the
Scotch, perhaps, predominating. The place owes its
prosperity, which is very considerable, to lumbering
interests.
With the first streak of day we are on the move, reach-
ing Sault Ste. Marie while it is yet early morning. What
12 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
a striking difference in the two towns at first sight
the Canadian side still asleep their cousins just across
the stream wide awake ! They certainly get the start of
us in many a scheme, and in some boundary land settle-
ments ; and yet, I am not so sure that their strength is as
lasting as ours. In spite of early rising, their business,
and ours too, for that matter, often gives out during the
day.
The American shops, numerous and well-stocked, would
do no discredit to city merchandizing. The wharf and
walks are thronged with people. But there is reason to
fear lest this prosperity, chiefly owing to the building of a
ship canal, should prove ephemeral. The valuable water-
fall of the Sault about sixteen feet will, in time, doubt-
less be taken advantage of for manufacturing pur-
poses.
The two hours taken to make the passage through the
locks gave us a good opportunity for observing the Indians
catching white-fish in the rapids. Each bark canoe held
two occupants one at the stern poling it up the stream,
the other at the prow using the dip net. It required all
the nerve and skill which few but an Indian possess to
steady so frail a craft in such wild waters. Before we were
out of the locks they were on board offering for sale a
basket of these delicious fish. Never did I enjoy fish
more unless the first salmon of the season on the river
Saguenay.
A few miles farther, and we are in Superior 30,000
THE LAKES. 13
square miles of fresh water the grandest of inland seas.
I expect to be thrilled with a similar but sublirner sensa-
tion only when out upon the Pacific.
After a long stretch of unbroken waters 350 miles
in a direct line the fogs roll away, and reveal to our
delighted eyes Silver Islet thirty miles ahead. The
Islet, off the main shore about a mile, was, originally,
a naked rock, fifteen yards square, and rising out of
the water little more than enough to discover the
precious ore. Formerly it was owned by Montrealers,
but through over-caution or lack of push hardly lack
of funds it passed from them to an American com-
pany. The new proprietors, taking hold of it with
characteristic energy, speedily transported material from
the mainland, and broadened the Islet into a base from
which there now rise a half-dozen goodly-sized buildings,
viz., boarding-house, reading-room, office, etc. One hun-
dred and fifty men are usually employed. The shaft has
been sunk nearly 600 feet. It is jealously guarded
comers and goers, especially workmen, having to pass
through a search-room. Occasionally specimens of ore
are ingeniously concealed, one fellow secreting a lump in
the enormous knot of a necktie.
Like most other mines, its fortunes are fluctuating,
sometimes the "show" so poor that stocks are a drug
in the market ; again, so rich that shareholders pocket
large profits. Off to the right, at the east end of the bay,
fronted by a carefully kept lawn extending to the water's
14 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
edge, is the handsome residence of Colonel Shibley, the
President of the Company.
Scattered along the rocky shore, in some instances
built right against the beetling cliffs, are a number of
rough-and-ready dwellings. On the face of one of these
bluffs, well-nigh perpendicular, a hopeful housewife was
trying to coax into existence a potato-patch.
We continue our way westward along the prostrate
form of the Sleeping Indian, a natural breakwater of
Titanic proportions running for miles parallel with the
main-land. Rounding the extremity called Thunder
Cape, rising nearly 2,000 feet high, the steamer heads
straight for the north shore. At our left, over against the
Cape, rises an island of magnificent upward dimensions.'
Beyond this again, to the north, another navigable chan-
nel coming between, is an imposing, singular formation,
called Pie Island. It looks like a huge round pie
inverted.
Within this grandly guarded place is the now famous
Thunder Bay, containing an area of 200 square miles.
Directly, ahead, on a rising shore, is Prince Arthur's
Landing, the southern terminus of the overland route to
Manitoba. A well-built wharf, making up in length what
it lacks in breadth, is thronged with people ; the town, at
least the lying-about-loose parts and they are legion just
now having come down to meet us. The coming of a
steamer is the event of the week. Unrecognised myself
in the unclerical grey, I easily recognised a number of
THE LAKES. 15
persons, not as well disguised, from distant parts of the
Dominion ; some cheery, as though they were getting near
the pot of gold at the foot of the rainbow ; some Micaw-
ber-like, with a sort of waiting-to-turn-up look ; and some
with the same discouraged look worn in other places. I
will not jest with these sad faces. They had fulfilled the
law of labor, but through imprudence had reaped a scanty
store. One of them the saddest of all toiled hard as
an agent for one of the many inventions which promise
to make a man's fortune in a day. It brought to him, as
to many another, ^fortune.
If speculators would stop hunting after Capt. Kidd's
treasures, shifting as a will-o'-the-wisp, and dig at
home, they would find their bread both surer and sweeter.
Here comes a character ! face burnt and bloated well
on in years still showing, both of brain and body, rough,
shaggy strength, not unlike the granite of his native hills.
He wears the clannish cap, but not the kilt. Who is he ?
" The brother, sir, of a distinguished Professor in a Scottish
University ; came to Canada many years ago, is un-
married, and lives a hermit life more than half the year.
In the fall he goes away alone into the far back-woods to
trap and hunt ; keeps sober till spring, then comes out,
sells his pelts, gets drunk, and so remains till his money is
gone and trapping time calls him back again to his forest
home."
Another character ! a lawyer, very respectably con-
nected, and of considerable promise at one time ; but here,
1 6 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
as I had often seen him elsewhere, staggering along the
streets, too drunk to walk straight, and yet with sense
enough remaining to know and feel his shame. Approach-
ing the hotel on the balcony of which we were sitting, he
makes desperate efforts to appear sober. After several
attempts he succeeds in coming to a standstill, then nod-
ding his head knowingly, as if considering a " case," he
makes the " points " on the palms of his hands ; finally,
folding the arms across the breast, and fixing the eyes
upon the walk, he goes into a prolonged meditative mood.
Passing the place some time after, I saw him again emerg-
ing from the bar-room, but now utterly lost to self-respect,
pitching across the walk like the helpless hulk of a noble
ship on troubled waters.
Nature has done much for Prince Arthur's Landing.
Favored with a spacious harbor, occupying a command-
ing outlook, fanned by reinvigorating breezes from off
the grandest of lakes, the streets watered by streams
flowing from unfailing fountains in the distant hills, a
soil eminently suited for gardens and the growth of trees
these advantages, combined with those conferred by
the coming railroad, will, if haste to be rich and the curse
of strong drink do not blast bright hopes, make the
Landing in years to come a charming summer resort.
Five miles west of this, on the Kaministiquia river, two
and a half miles from its mouth, is Fort William, an old-
established trading post of the Hudson Bay Company,
and possibly (since fixed upon) the Lake Superior ter-
THE LAKES. I 7
minus of the Pacific Railway. The river, about 300 feet
wide, with an average depth of fifteen feet, will, with some
dredging, be navigable for large vessels six or eight miles
above its mouth.
Leaving behind the most of our company and freight,
we enter upon our last 200 miles of the voyage. In the
afternoon of the Sabbath day we reach the steamer's desti-
nation Duluth. Here is the receipt of custom. The
officer, of whom the Captain has spoken well combines in
a rare degree, courtesy with conscientiousness. If he
judge the passenger honest, the luggage is passed un-
opened ; if he suspect smuggling, and contraband goods
are discovered, instead of confiscating them, duty is ex-
acted on the spot, and they are passed.
Duluth is a promising place if the through Northern
Pacific Railroad be built. It is beautifully situated not
unlike Prince Arthur's Landing, but on a more rapid and
higher rise. The streets are broad and regularly laid out,
those running back from the water showing finely from
the steamer's deck miles away. Many of the buildings are
costly and elegant, some of them rising up in the midst of
burnt rocks and blackened stumps.
The German and Scandinavian elements prevail, and so
does lager bier.
It is a city of churches and saloons.
" Wherever God erects a house of prayer,
The devil always builds a chapel there ;
And 'twill be found upon examination,
The latter has the largest congregation."
1 8 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
I attended service in an exceedingly neat and spacious
church, the congregation numbering fifteen ! A Young
Men's Christian Association is doing a good work, espe-
cially in keeping down the saloons.
Duluth, in its earlier days, like most frontier towns of
rapid growth, was infested by desperadoes. Remembering
this, and scanning closely the unprepossessing throng await-
ing us at the wharf, I had little reason to suppose the
place very much improved. Giving my baggage checks
to the most respectable runner, which by chance led to
the best " 'bus," I hoped for pleasant quarters. Mine host
put me in what he may have considered his best room.
It was all I could have desired except a second door
opening into it from I know not where, and over which
I had no control. True, it was fastened, but who held the
keys? To sleep under such circumstances was out of
the question, and to betray any suspicions of being ill at
ease, by asking for the key, was undesirable. What is to
be done ? Fears of evil quicken the powers of invention.
Taking a cord from my baggage, I tie one end to the
door knob ; then placing the water jug on the stand, at its
very edge, I fasten the other end to the handle. Opening
the door one half inch would bring the catastrophe. Re-
joicing in my ingenuity, half eager to see the experiment
tested, I went to bed, and lay awake to hear the crash.
The precaution was unnecessary, but not unsuggestive.
Warring elements and the Wicked One were against Noah,
but all in vain the Ark had only one door, and GOD shut it.
after
west,
CHAPTER II.
THE PRAIRIES.
HE next morning I took train for St. Paul, on
the Mississippi, 150 miles to the south-west
i For the first 40 miles our way is through the
woods, sometimes over yawning chasms on
lofty elevations of trestle-work, and again along
the beautiful dales of the St. Louis river. Fond-du-
lac and other names on the line recall the days of
La Salle and other early French explorers. Little
remains beyond the name to attest the achieve-
ments of these heroic adventurers.
Among the passengers who joined us from the
Red River are two nuns returning'home to Montreal,
an absence of 15 years on a mission in the North-
1,500 miles north of Winnipeg. One, the Lady Su-
20 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
perioress, is, in decision and force of character, eminently
fitted for her position. Unlike the sisterhood in general,
she is unreserved, and even eager to converse. Returning
to civilization, and rejoicing in the thought of soon seeing
old friends and familiar places, she is quite carried away
with her emotions. When not conversing, but silently pic-
turing to herself the coming joys, she is frequently con-
vulsed with suppressed laughter, heartily shared in by us
all.
Rush City, Pine City, and possibly others which I did
not see, and could not, are along the line, or are said to
be. A score of houses, more or less oftener less make a
city in the West.
Emerging from the timber, we enter the " openings "
semi-prairie lands. Scattered with lavish hand, and stretch-
ing away as far as the eye can reach, are wild convolvuli,
tiger lilies, and other flowers of brilliant hues. In other
parts of the State through which I passed these" openings "
were without flowers or undergrowth of any kind except
grass, the only wood being scrub oak, very mucli the shape
and size of an apple tree, presenting the appearance of a
vast and irregularly planted orchard. Nearing St. Paul
we pass several favorite summer resorts, small lakes
purest gems in emerald settings all abounding with fish
and fowl.
All hail ! thou Father of Waters. One of the ambitions
of life is attained. Before us rolls the Mississippi great
and long river. St. Paul, rising on a bend in the river
THE PRAIRIES. 21
overlooks it from lofty bluffs. The business part of the
city is mostly built on an elevated plateau, its principal
street running down to the levee. Rising round about the
plateau, in great variety of elevation and outlook, are much
sought-after sites, crowned with the finer class of residences.
The city excels in the number of its unique, commanding
locations.
Its business suffered badly in the common crises of '5 7
and '62. House after house, among the oldest and
wealthiest, went down ; but, full of spring, they have risen
from their ruins to a new life and healthier, one house
during '73 doing a business of three and another of four
million dollars.
Centrally situated to a vast and fertile field, and fed both
by the Mississippi and the iron arteries of rapidly multiply-
ing railroads, St. Paul must become a great commercial
centre. It is scarcely a western city except geographically,
a large proportion of its citizens, in quest of health or lost
fortunes, having come from New York, Boston and Phila-
delphia,
Catching the spirit of western breadth and enterprise,
whilst retaining the excellence of the east, they quickly
succeed in winning the admiration of all comers.
The Americans, given to hospitality, are often a prey to
impostors ; still, an open door and hearty greetings are
abiding characteristics. Induced to prolong my stay in
St. Paul from days into weeks, I proved the princely, hos-
pitality of its citizens.
TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
A few miles further up the river, at the Falls of St. An-
thony presenting one of the finest water powers in the
world is Minneapolis, famous for its milling and factory
interests.
A woollen mill, second to none, it is said, turns out blan-
kets having only one objection liability to dirt their
thickness rendering washing by ordinary methods quite
out of the question. Some that I saw, ranging from $15
to $40, were marvels of beauty and warmth. The saw
mills are seldom surpassed ; whilst the flouring mills claim
to be unrivalled, one of massive masonry, several stories
high, having forty runs of stones, with a capacity of turning
out 2,000 barrels of flour per day. The machinery is
mostly hidden, and works noiselessly common charac-
teristics, it is said, of great powers generally.
Those in charge of the mills, jealously guarding the
secrets of manufacture, are slow at first in showing stran-
gers through them,but when assured that we were not from
Egypt, sent to spy out the land, nothing could exceed
their courtesy and painstaking.
The mill that has gained the highest reputation is at
Dundas, a small place a few miles below St. Paul. The
proprietor, a Mr. Archibald, of Scotch birth, and subse-
quently from near Montreal, discovered a new method of
manufacture, by which out of Minnesota spring wheat is
produced the finest flour in the world. It commands in
the. Eastern markets the highest prices.
Midway between Minneapolis and St. Paul, at the con-
THE PRAIRIES. 23
fluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota, stands Fort
Snelling, built in troublous times for protection against
the Indians. Then a regiment was quartered here, now
only a company the Sioux, the most savage and treacher-
ous of the tribes, having retreated beyond the State. Fort
Snelling is wanting in the Gibraltar strength and sublimity
of the citadel in Quebec ; yet it affords one of the most
charming views east of the Rocky Mountains.
Standing within the look-out tower, rising from the brow
of the bluff, and overhanging the river, you see directly
under your feet, winding around the fort, a train of cars
running along a track cut from the perpendicular walls.
Raising the eyes, and looking to the left, you sweep past
the picturesque, old-fashioned ferry, between lofty wooded
banks up the Mississippi. Doubling back upon its vision,
the eye follows the same river in its downward but broad-
ened course till it rests at the bend on St. Paul. On the
south shore, directly opposite, an emerald isle coming be-
tween, lies Mendota, the residence of the first Governor
of the State. The house, built of stone, and wearing a
well-to-do, farmer-like look, is still standing. Mendota
was selected by Stephen N. Douglas for the capital, and
strenuously pressed before Congress, but wiser counsels
prevailed in favor of St. Paul. To the right, stretching away
many a mile westward until lost in the distance, is one of
the gardens of the State, Minnesota valley, watered by
the river bearing the same name in summer little larger
than a brook all but lost in the luxuriant vegetation skirt-
24 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
ing its shores, but at high water navigable for 150 miles.
In the rear a not unfitting background to the exquisite
picture lies Minneapolis, lurking behind rolling " Reser-
vation lands."
Continuing our way westward from Fort Snelling, a half-
hour's drive brings us to a classic spot immortalized in the
verse of Longfellow Minnehaha. The gem is still there,
" Gleaming, glancing through the branches j "
but its Indian settings have for ever disappeared. The
wild wood has given way to fertile fields and trim gar-
dens ; the wigwam, to an elegant costly hotel ; the "an-
cient arrow-maker," to the shrewd, enterprising American ;
solitude, to the scream of the locomotive, and the throng-
ing tread of ten thousand pilgrim feet. True to life was
the red man's vision. Well were they called the Laugh-
ing Waters not the laugh of the ogress, loud and harsh,
but of the sylph, subdued and silvery. Coyly hiding be-
hind its screen of branches, it
" Laughs and leaps into the valley."
Halting here in his homeward way from battle, " plea-
sant the landscape around him, pleasant the air above him,
the bitterness of anger wholly departed, from out his brain
the thought of vengeance, and from the heart the burning
fever," it was but natural that the dark-eyed daughter of
the Dacotahs should fill the heart of Hiawatha with dreams
of beauty. Was it strange that, charmed and captivated,
he should return to woo the maiden, whose flowing tresses,
THE PRAIRIES. 25
rippling laughter, shade and sunshine, were but the image
and the echoes of the beautiful waters whose name she
bore?
Journeying westward through Southern Minnesota, the
most prosperous portion of the State, and across the corn-
covered prairies of Iowa, I found two topics engrossing a
large share of public attention the Grangers and the
Grasshoppers ; the former, secret societies composed ex-
clusively of farmers, were a plague to railroad monopo-
lies, grain corners, and rings generally j the latter were a
plague to the Grangers.
At one of the State Fairs I saw on exhibition these
grasshopper pests, of all sizes from i ^ inch downwards.
They look like our eastern grasshopper, but are stronger
on the wing, with an incredible capacity for food.
Driven by the drought out of the mountains eastward,
sweeping over the whole of the nearer States and portions
of the remoter, they devour everything the drought has
left. Thousands of acres of corn their favorite food
are stripped to the naked stalk not an ear left to the
reaper ; tender trees -are left leafless and limbless ; gar-
dens potatoes, onions, cabbages, etc. all disappear like
morning dew ; turnips are hollowed out to the rind ; still
unsatisfied, these ghouls devour their dead, and then fall
foul of the first that limps or halts by the way.
Swarming in the air, darkening the heavens, covering the
earth, crawling through the houses, choking the flues, foul-
ing the waters, sending forth a sickening stench, crushed
C
26 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
under foot and wheel, even clogging, it is averred, the
course of the cars on the Kansas Pacific Railroad " going
forth all of them together," sometimes a mass of 100
square miles they are truly, like the locusts of Egypt,
" very grievous."
The land where corn was sold for lye. per bushel,
where a waggon load was the price of shoeing a span of
horses, where in years of plenty and a poor market it was
used for fuel, is to-day sending forth its cry for bread !
And yet Providence has sent the plague for a purpose.
One is that God has given the ground, those broad, inex-
haustible prairies, not for partial productions not for the
sole growth of corn from year to year. He sent the
plague to protest ; to stop the violence done to nature ; to
restore equilibrium to her laws by utterly destroying the
great offence, corn. " Nature abhors monopolies. She
always breaks them up. Each vegetable is only a distil-
lery for a certain gas for the support of animal life. The
potato distils one gas, the hop another, and wheat another.
Nature fights against a monopoly of hops in New York
and Wisconsin by bringing the hop louse ; the potato rot
warns Ireland ; the cucumber bug breaks up the twenty-
acre fields of cucumbers in Russia."
In Canada and elsewhere, tempted by the productive-
ness of the soil and the high price of flour, we ran to ex-
tremes in the growth of wheat ; the insect came. We re-
sorted to other varieties of seed. Which was proof
against the pest ? Every expedient was a failure. Na-
THE PRAIRIES. 27
ture could not be cheated or forced. He who giveth
seedtime and harvest the God of the whole earth
would not suffer violence to be done to one part through
the selfishness of another. We were driven to the growth
of other grains.
CHAPTER III.
MIDWAY ACROSS THE CONTINENT.
HE Pilgrim Fathers, soon after the settle-
ment of Boston, sent out parties to explore
westward, and lay out public roads. In due
time they returned and reported their work ac-
complished, as far as would ever be necessary,
about seven miles west of the Colleges at Cambridge.
" They were men of giant soul ;
Men of faith and deeds sublime ;
Men whose acts will reach their goal
In the mighty depths of time."
Still their vision was narrow ; they did not fore-
cast the future. They thought only of themselves. God
thought of the race. They were sent forth to open up a
New World, into which should pour, in the centuries to
come, the overflowing population of the Old. Soon the
MIDWAY ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 29
lines drawn by the Pilgrims were too " narrow by reason
of the inhabitants ; they broke forth on the right hand
and on the left." Westward ho ! was the irrepressible
cry. Forests disappeared, savage beasts and more savage
men fell or fled before the surging tide ; the hurrying feet
of millions were heard beyond the Mississippi, swarming
over the broad prairies to the banks of the Missouri. God
" hastened " it. " The little one has become a thousand,
and the small one a strong nation."
The heart of the Continent, a mythical land to our
fathers but fifty years ago, possessed by untamed tribes
and wild beasts, is to-day studded with schools and
churches, thickly sown with flourishing cities, the home
of millions, and the highway of the world. The Far
West has ceased to be. The East and the West are
one.
Behind us, on the eastern bank of the Missouri, a bor-
der town of Western Iowa, is Council Bluffs, so called
because the common conference ground of the Indians in
former days.
Before us, on the western bank, a border town of Ne-
braska, is Omaha., which 25 years ago consisted of one
house, the post-office being the crown of Squire Jones's
hat ; to-day it boasts a population of 20,000, with many
fine buildings, the finest devoted to educational purposes.
The Missouri is navigable from its mouth at St. Louis
to Fort Benton, in Montana, a distance of 3,000 miles.
Its waters, according to the grim humor of the West,
30 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
" too thick to swim in, and not thick enough to walk on,"
deposit, in a few moments, a thick sediment on the bot-
tom of your drinking cup. Hence the name Big Muddy,
by which the river is generally known outside of the
geographies. Seldom restrained by high banks on both
sides, but flowing through low lands, its course is way-
ward as the Wandering Jew here to-day, but where in a
twelvemonth ? Pioneers have pre-empted land along its
banks, built a "claim" cabin, and left, returning to find
the channel changed and their possessions in another
State ! Lots purchased in the distant prairies are worn
away, carried down the stream, and " delivered at St.
Louis."
Shifting, spreading waters were the dread of ancient
settlers on
" The fruitful shoi'e of muddy Nile ;"
but snags are the evil genius of the Missourian settler
and navigator. Seized and uprooted in the river's forays,
they are scattered up and down in vast numbers, their
roots firmly imbedded in the bottom, and their tops
stripped of limbs, worn sharp as pike-staffs ; skulking
near the surface, as if seeking revenge, they impale the
unsuspecting steamer, piercing the hulk and coming out
on the hurricane deck.
There was, a few years ago, and is still perhaps, a snag
in the river near St. Louis that cost steamboat com-
panies $250,000.
The low banks and consequent shifting tendencies of
MIDWAY ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 3!
the river was one of the chief difficulties with which the
railroad had to contend. For the first years they ferried
the river ; but engineering skill, at a cost of three million
dollars at least, succeeded in mastering the Missouri.
Across it stretches an iron bridge a mile long, supported
by wrought-iron columns, filled with concrete and masonry,
sunk to the solid rock 80 feet below the river's bed
another addition to the magnificent achievements of
modern times.
We cross the river to Omaha, at the southern suburbs,
called Traintown, after that strange mixture of fox-and-
goose, the "irrepressible George Francis." Years ago,
believing that Nebraska was the coming centre of the
Union, and of the universe too, he bought here, at a low
figure, a large tract of land. It has made him a
millionaire.
Omaha is most widely known as the eastern terminus
of the Union Pacific Railroad. Eventful has been the
history of the last 350 years touching the Trans-Conti-
nental, the interest intensifying in its nearer approach
until culminating in the completion of the great railroad
in 1869.
Cabeca-de-Vaca, a Spaniard, led a little band from the
mouth of the Mississippi westward in 1528; after eight
years of wanderings, having undergone incredible hard-
ships, they dragged themselves to the goal of their ambi-
tion the shores of the Pacific.
The first to foreshadow a highway across the conti-
i]
32 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
nent was Jonathan Carver, a British officer who had
helped in the conquest of the Canadas. Burning with
ambition to extend the bounds of the Empire, and ensure
to it, by speedier communication, settlements already
formed in the East Indies and China, he started westward
in 1758, reaching as far as Dacotah. Forced to return
from lack of means, and denied help by unbelieving
England, to which he had gone, he gave up the project
in despair, but, like the dying swan, uttering at the last
the most marvellous notes. " That the completion of the
scheme I have had the honor of first planning and
attempting will some time or other be effected, I make
no doubt. Whenever it is, and the execution of it car-
ried on with propriety, those who are so fortunate as to
succeed will reap, exclusive of the national advantages
that must ensue, emoluments beyond their most san-
guine expectations. And whilst their spirits are elevated
by success, perhaps they may bestow some commenda-
tion and blessings on the person that first pointed out to
them the way. . . Mighty kingdoms will emerge from
these wildernesses, and stately palaces and solemn tem-
ples with gilded spires supplant the Indian huts whose
only decorations are the barbarous trophies of their van-
quished enemies."
Seventy years ago, after the United States had purchased
the French possessions in America, including the present
State of Louisiana and all the territory beyond the Mis-
sissippi, the Governor sent forth two officers, Lewis and
MIDWAY ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 33
Clark, to spy out the land, the chief object being to find
whether or not a highway could be hewn across the Con-
tinent.
Richardson, in his " Beyond the Mississippi," to which
I am indebted for important information, says, " It was
unconsciously the pioneer movement for a Pacific Rail-
way. . . A modern Argonautic pursuit of the Golden
Fleece of the future.''
The first to cross with waggons was Bonneville's expe-
dition in 1832.
Others soon followed ; among them the Donner party
in 1846, part of whom perished in the winter snows of the
Sierras after fearful sufferings.
The following year, 1847, the Mormons, driven from
Nauvoo, moved west 1,000 miles to Salt Lake Valley, a
few continuing their way on into California.
Then following close on the heels of the discovery of
gold in 1848, thirty thousand undertook to cross, but
many were massacred by the Indians, whilst others died
in the Great American Desert of thirst and starvation.
The country was stirred by the story of their sufferings.
The far-seeing talked of a railway, but capitalists shrugged
their shoulders and turned away to tighten the strings on
their money bags. Government frowned ; " It couldn't
be done, and if it could it wouldn't pay." And yet, during
the twenty years preceding the building of the railway, the
hauling of military stores the accumulated expense of
34 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Indian wars along the line cost the country enough to
build a double track across the Continent.
True, men may go round the " Horn," but the voyage
is tedious and unsafe. Across the isthmus is much shorter,
but then emigrants prefer the " plains, " with all their
risks, to the horrors of the " middle passage." What is
to be done ? The prairies of the west, productive as
broad, are open to all. But no ; men are frenzied by
the gold fever. California is the watchword. Go they
will. Government moves. In 1850, " Old Bullion/' Ben-
ton, introduces into Congress the first Pacific Railway
Bill. Crossing the mountains with cars was considered
out of the question. Hence the Bill provided that wag-
gon roads were to complete the connection.
Within the next four years nine routes were surveyed
across the Continentbetween British America and Mexico.
In 1859, Government gave charters for building three
roads, the Northern, Southern and Central, accompanying
them with large grants of land.
Then came the civil war. In the great struggle, slavery
or no slavery, the enterprise was suspended. But the
very evil that stopped the scheme started it again. Cali-
fornia, beyond all price to the North, is not less coveted
by the South. How shall she be defended by the Federal
Government? The transportation of troops will take a
month. How shall she be kept in sympathy with the
North? Only by constant communication. The railway
is a necessity. The distant and but lately adopted daugh-
MIDWAY ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 3 5
ter must be grappled to the mother's heart by bands
of steel. Thus out of the direst calamity, war, comes
more speedily a nation's, a world's gain.
" The night is mother of the day,
The winter of the spring ;
And ever upon old decay
The greenest mosses cling.
Behind the cloud the starlight lurks ;
Through showers the sunbeams fall ;
For God, who loveth all His works,
Has left his hope with all."
The Government granted to the Union Pacific Railroad
line, which was to extend from Omaha to Promontory
Point, 1,084 rniles, the following subsidy : $16,000 per
mile on the plains, $32,000 among the foot-hills, and
$48,000 on the mountains, besides thirteen and a quarter
million acres of land. Sod was broken at Omaha, Nov.
5th, 1865. The charter required the completion of the
road July ist, 1876. All supplies had to be brought from
the Eastern States. The nearest railroad to Omaha was
150 miles away. Provisions, railroad ties, engines every-
thing had to be transported all this distance by waggons.
Soon 12,000 men were employed. They were directed
by telegraph from the Company's head-quarters in New
York. The work went rapidly on.
At the celebration of " breaking ground," a speaker
prophesied the laying of the last tie within five years
half the time allotted by the charter. He was ridiculed.
The road was completed in three years, six months and leu
days.
CHAPTER IV.
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS.
LL is bustle and activity. The station is
swarming with a multitude poured into it
& from the steamers of the Missouri and the
^ several railroads converging here feeders of the
great union artery running through the heart
of the Continent. Omaha and San Francisco are
to the land lying between 2,000 miles what
New York and Liverpool are to the Atlantic
gateways of the world.
First, tickets must be purchased, if not already
secured, price $100 greenbacks ; palace car, in-
cluding sleeping berth by night and drawing-room
car by day, $14 extra. If sleep, purer air, greater room-
iness, more select compagnons de voyage, a porter to look
after your wants and give information ; if a great gain in
comfort generally for five days the time taken to cross
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS. 37
from Omaha be worthy of consideration, then the
charge will be cheerfully paid. Next, ticket in hand it
must be shown to officials look sharp after your luggage ;
it must be re-checked and weighed, all beyond 100 Ibs.
per passenger being charged extra at the rate of $15 per
100 Ibs.
Now, if hitherto unattended to through ignorance or
inability, and if there be time which there probably will
be, as several hours are usually taken to effect the transfer
look after lunch ; I mean a well-stocked basket. Between
Chicago and Omaha they run hotel cars a very Fifth
Avenue hotel on wheels. Beyond Omaha, American en-
terprise has performed prodigies, opening the way and
building along the entire line eating-houses in some in-
stances elegant and spacious hotels. But oftentimes the
appetite, unwhetted by exercise, will endure but a morsel,
much less a " square meal " spare your stomach and save
the silver. In sight-seeing be insatiable spare not but
in eating and drinking economize ; and if economy be
anything to you and it is to most men it will leave you
a snug little sum to lay out in Chinese curiosities for the
" loved ones at home. ; ' The fact is, these refreshment
rooms let you in for nothing, take you in if hurried or not
hungry, and let you out only on payment of $i ; not an
exorbitant charge, by any means, if " justice is done,"
considering all the circumstances the excellence and
abundance of food, as well as the cost of transportation
hundreds of miles.
38 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
There are at many of the stations cheap eating-
houses meals for 50 cts. But, as the railroad company
advise, not as a mere selfish outlook, but of prudence,
don't go to them. They are not as convenient to the
cars a minute makes a difference if you are left behind ;
the food is inferior, and you are never sure of coming out
as you went in. Wordy, witty decoys await the arrival of
the train ; but in this case, as in some others, " don't be-
lieve anything you hear, and only half you see." These
houses are not unfrequently " vent holes of hell." One of
our passengers, an unsuspecting emigrant, was decoyed
into one of these dens ; his companions, suspecting all
was not right, followed after, and found him drinking and
tempted to gamble. Already the worse of liquor, and re-
fusing to leave, his friends laid hold upon him to drag him
out, when a gambler threw a spike which grazed the head
of an emigrant, and fastened itself in the wall !
Sometimes the regular eating stations are ill-timed,
coming too early or too late in the day. Besides, some of
the stations are rich in sight-seeing, and the time taken
for refreshments half an hour will give you an oppor-
tunity, if wide-awake and active, to add to your knowledge.
By all means, then, before starting from home get a gen-
erous-sized basket, and let mother or Maggie do the rest ; ,
its stores can be replenished by the way.
Now, tickets secured, baggage checked, lunch basket
on board, and Crofutt's Trans-Continental Guide Book in
our pocket, we are ready to start, but probably not the
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS. 39
train. The time need not be lost. Let us improve it by
strolling up and down the platform studying the crowd,
and such a study one seldom has outside the Western
world. Restless, ingenious, intensely in earnest, hasten-
ing to be rich, not always scrupulous as to means and
modes, independent as the 4th of July, every man as good
as his neighbour, and sometimes a little better, the angu-
larities and oddities of all nations coming together in all
imaginable pursuits and relationships, they present, like
the kaleidoscope, a wonderful variety of distinctions and
combinations.
Modern facilities for travel, by opening up to daily
communication the remotest places, have a strong ten-
dency to destroy local traits and customs. The railroad
is a great leveller in life, as well as in land. But owing
to the vast stretch of territory, the deeply ingrained peculi-
arities of the fixed population, and the constant in-pouring
of a mighty multitude from many lands, the West remains,
and will for years to come, what Grace Greenwood
aptly called New Life in a New World.
Lo, the poor Indian, mingles with the crowd, and will
often come into notice on the way. Kicked and cursed,
shot down like a dog, the object of all but universal
vengeance, devoted to speedy and utter extermination
such is the fate of the original owner of these broad lands.
The " War Policy " is not only inhuman and unchristian,
but it does not pay it does not pay from the lowest
level, the sordid standpoint of dollars and cents. Only a
4O TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
few months ago, Senator Harman, of Ohio, stated before
Congress that " one of the Indian expeditions cost
$6,000,000, and the officer in command officially reported
that they had killed one Indian. But the Express Agent
denied the accuracy of the report, and claimed that they
had killed the Indian themselves. And the Traders
stated that both the parties were mistaken, as the Indian
was still alive ! "
Lo is not the least noteworthy in this motley crowd.
Some wear a shred of clothing nothing to speak of
beyond the outfit furnished by Mother Nature. Others
rejoice in ragged, rotten garments, the cast-off clothing of
immigrants, picked up on the prairies, and held together
by ropes and strips of bark. A few coming to the fron-
tier for the first time, or clinging to savage customs, are
painted and bedizened in buckskin, elaborately and ex-
quisitely wrought.
Is there no evil to be feared from the Indians in
crossing ? Not now. During the building of the road
there was some fighting. Construction trains and others,
even after the road was completed, ran for a while armed
to the teeth. Once or twice trains were thrown off the
track. One of the present conductors on the Pacific
Central end is wanting a scalp which the red skins got,
and left him for dead at Donner Lake, where he had gone
a-fishing. Much as the Western white ridicules the
" noble red man," and damns him as the most deceitful,
drunken, depraved of all creatures, yet in crossing
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS. 41
one has far less to fear from them than from the
gambling, cut-throat whites who still lurk along the line.
" All aboard ! " two or three impatient snorts from the
iron horse, and we are off locomotive", tender, two bag-
gage, express, five common and three palace a train of
thirteen cars. Our course is southerly for the first fifty
miles, when we make an elbow bend westward, running for
several hundred miles along one of the finest natural rail-
way routes in the world the Valley of the Platte. It is
nearly a dead level, the rise being only seven feet to the mile
for five hundred miles. The river, as its name signifies,
is shallow, navigable " only for shingles " its average
depth six inches. And yet it has proved to many an emi-
grant, ignorant of its fords, and unsuspicious of its sands, a
slough of despond. In dry seasons emigrants have been
obliged to dig into its bed for a supply of water. The
valley, with an average width of ten miles, was the favorite
hunting grounds of the Pawnees.
Beginning 150 miles from Omaha, and extending 200
miles westward, is the Buffalo Belt, over which, a few years
ago, immense numbers of these animals were wont to pass
northward in the spring, again southward in the fall ;
sometimes the herds were so vast that emigrant trains
were delayed for hours waiting for their passing.
Seventy years ago, when the first explorers across the
central part of the Continent came to the Missouri, they
found it choked up for a mile with passing herds.
Once these noble creatures were as plentiful as domes-
D
42 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
tic cattle, and were found as far east as Lake Champlain ;
now, sometimes swept away by winter storms, and inces-
santly preyed upon by both Indians and whites often
by the latter in utter wantonness they are fast disappear-
ing in the remotest western wilds. It is nearly fifty years
since the last one was killed east of the Mississippi.
They are still seen in season on the Kansas Pacific,
running from St. Louis to Denver. I met in California
with a party of Pennsylvania railroad directors, who, cross-
ing in their own car, had stopped at pleasure to hunt
along the railroad line. They succeeded in capturing
alive a calf, which was expressed back to Philadelphia.
The history of the Platte Valley has its chapter of horrors
Indian atrocities. Here, the Pawnee Loups offered
human sacrifices to the star Venus. Here, in the earlier
days of emigration, midway between the Missouri and
Rocky Mountains, the great Indian rendezvous and
stronghold, the Cheyennes, Arapahoes and savage Sioux
committed many of their bloodiest deeds.
Three hundred miles from Omaha we come to a succes-
sion of sand hills running north and south ; here also we
enter the first alkali belt, extending westward 70 miles
to Julesburg. As this now deserted town will serve as a
specimen of life along the line in other days, we may de-
jay a little upon its history. Up to ? 68, while it remained
a terminal town of the railroad, Julesburg was a flourish-
ing place of 4,000 inhabitants. It was the most noted
rendezvous of roughs on the road. Its buildings were
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS. 43
chiefly dance-houses and gambling-hells. Thieves, gam-
blers, cut-throats, prostitutes, stalked brazen-faced in
broad day through the streets. " A man for breakfast"
was an all but daily bill of fare. " Morality and honesty "
if ever there " clasped hands, and departed the place."
Ever moving westward with the road, these Sodoms were
aptly called " Hell on wheels." But that which makes
Julesburg most noted was the death of its founder, Jules
Berg, at the hands of Jack Slade. Slade came of a good
family in Illinois, and was endowed by nature with extra-
ordinary gifts. Born to command, and yet a slave to his
own passions, he killed a man in a quarrel, fled westward,
and entered upon a course of crime which has rendered
his career the most notorious in the records of the Rocky
Mountains. He succeeded in securing a superintendency
in the Overland Stage Company, and was at the same
time captain of a band of road agents robbers and cut-
throats the terror of all travellers in those days. He was
idolized by his followers, and eulogized by those whom he
had befriended in chivalric and generous moods; but,
with these exceptions, he was more feared in the Far West
than the Almighty Himself. Daring, reckless, ambitious
to reign supreme on the road, he fell out with the equally
unprincipled Jules Berg, also in the employ of the Stage
Company. In the first fight Berg got the better of Slade,
leaving in his body a charge of buckshot, which he car-
ried to the day of his death. After a while Slade's fol-
lowers " corralled " the foe 50 miles from home, sent for
44 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
their lead er, t who, like the son of Nimshi, thirsting for the
blood of Jezebel, "rode furiously" all night, until he
reached his enemy. He found him tied like a beast to a
post in the corral. Slade, surrounded by seven kindred
spirits, for a while did little but mock the miserable
wretch. A perfect pistol shot, he took good care not to
kill him too soon ; but telling his victim where he would
hit him next, cursing and drinking between the shots, he
lengthened out the torture until twenty-two bullets were
lodged in his body. Finally, in a frenzy of blood, he thrust
the muzzle into his mouth and blew his head to pieces ;
then cutting off the ears and putting them in his pocket,
he carried them about the country, often flinging them
down upon the bar-room counter, and demanding the
" drinks " on his bloody pledges. He was never denied.
He continued his course westward, adding victim to
victim, none daring to withstand the monster, until he
reached Virginia City, in Montana. Like the troubled
sea casting up mire and dirt, he could not rest. He was
drunken with blood. He and his followers were fast
turning the city into a hell. Besides innumerable lesser
crimes, he was known to have killed thirteen persons.
His cup of iniquity was full. The citizens, driven to des-
peration, and weary of waiting for the strong arm of the
law to be lifted in their defence, took the matter into their
own hands. Lynch was elected Judge by acclamation. The
people were empanelled as jury. When Jack Slade arrived
in the city, and commenced a new chapter in crime, he
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS. 45
found the " Vigilantes " organized. They were roused and
irresistible. Slade was seized. A messenger, mounted
on the fleetest of horses, sped with the news of the arrest
across the mountains to the passionately devoted wife.
Springing into the saddle, armed with a derringer, resolved
to shoot her husband rather than see him die like a dog,
she flew over the rocky path with all the energy of love
and despair, only to find him dangling from the gate posts
of a corral. It was a wild scene, the dead desperado
and the frantic shrieking wife. But justice had at last
triumphed. The chief of the road agents had met his
fate ; the rule of the roughs was ended ; the plague
was, stayed; the atmosphere was purified, and the peo-
ple began to breathe more freely. Civilization was in the
ascendency.
Plague spots in society there still are, but they do not
imperil life as before. Vice, with its hectic flush and
bloody hand, no longer stalks through the streets unchal-
lenged. If foul within, it is forced to be fair without.
The Vigilantes have given place to a well-appointed judi-
ciary and a vigorous executive. Schools are at work,
bringing brute force under the reins of reason. Churches
warning of rock and wrecker, pointing to port and
anchorage, are springing up all over the West, keeping
pace with the population.
" The chaos of a mighty world
Is rounding into form."
About 450 miles west of Omaha we first catch a glimpse
46 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
of the coyote, an under-sized species of wolf. Sneaking,
treacherous, voracious, they are among beasts what this-
tles are among grain a curse, and hard to kill. Still there
is the " soul of good in things evil " the old hunters
pronouncing " wolf mutton " not unsavory in " hard
times." The flavor, I suspect, is not in the flesh, but in
the " times."
Next and near the coyote, of which they are sometimes
the prey, we pass several spotted antelopes, keeping com-
pany with the cattle of the plains. We had a good oppor-
tunity to observe them, as they were near the track, and,
like the cattle, seemed to care little for the cars. Symme-
trical, sleek, plump, prettily marked and graceful in their
movements, they are exceedingly beautiful. I found their
flesh, with which we were frequently regaled, more juicy
than venison excepting always that of Minnesota.
But what interested us most of all were the prairie dogs.
They are about the size of a large grey squirrel, but
plumper and of a light reddish-brown color. Being of a
social disposition, they congregate in cities, which have
been found covering an area of three square miles, with
houses crowded as close together as hillocks in a potato-
patch. They burrow in the ground, casting up the dirt
into little mounds at the mouth of their holes. It is said
there is a vast net-work of underground connections,
abounding in tortuous windings and abrupt turnings so as
to baffle a pursuer. The owl, a small ground species, and
snakes are frequently found sharing their hospitality,
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS. 47
whether by invitation or invasion has not yet been settled
by the savans. At the approach of winter the dogs stop
the mouth of their holes, dig deeper and hybernate till
spring. Their chief food being roots, they wisely found
their cities on grassy portions of the prairies convenient
to water. Much sought after by the coyote, and even to
men a more savory morsel than squirrel, they find it
necessary to be on the alert for life. They forage for food
in sets, seldom venturing more than half a mile from
home ; and yet, so successful are their forays that they
look like little bundles of blubber rolled up in brown skin,
their cheeks sticking out with fatness.
Though the Union Pacific Railroad has been running
through their cities for five years, and never so much
as once stopped to disturb them, yet universal confi-
dence is far from established ; the coming of each train
creates fresh commotion and scamper. A goodly number,
undisturbed in the more distant streets, are passing to and
fro paying neighborly visits ; others are making for their
holes and disappearing as fast as their short legs will let
them and others, having made good their escape, are
reappearing the length of their nose ; but the funniest
sight of all are the numbers sitting, each on his own
mound, bolt upright, stiff as a stone statue all except the
wisp of a tail. All the energies of this energetic little
creature are intensified in the tail, suggesting that some-
where about its roots might be hidden the principle of per-
petual motion.
48 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
We are now fairly within what enthusiastic herdsmen
call the " best grass country in the world" we must always
except the Saskatchewan a vast belt running 700 miles
north and south, with an average width of 200 miles. The
country, though wearing a parched and starved look in
summer and fall, really yields a luxuriant growth of
gramma or bunch grass, never without nourishment sum-
mer or winter. Whether owing to some peculiarity in the
grass, soil or atmosphere, or to their combined qualities,
I know not ; but it is certain that stock with no care ex-
cept herding, fatten quickly on the Rocky Mountains as
well as on the prairies. Where to the eye of the traveller
it seems impossible to eke out more than the scantiest
subsistence, the herds are sleek and plump, ready for
market. Old oxen, worn out with waggon-work across
the plains, have been turned out to winter on grass grow-
ing wild, and found in good condition by the following
summer.
We have left the valley of the Platte and are ascending
a commanding plateau. The September air is marvel-
lously clear. Neither tree nor shrub breaks the sweep of
the eye. In the far distance a few fleecy clouds are airily
coquetting along the line dividing earth and sky. Not a
note from bird or beast disturbs the solemn stillness only
the subdued rumble of the cars, to which we have now
grown insensible. The sun, high in the heavens, within
fifteen minutes of the meridian, as if rejoicing in the scene,
is shining down upon us and all the world without a
MISSOURI TO THE MOUNTAINS. 49
frown. There is an eager, expectant look on every face.
Guide-books are consulted. Hasty questions are asked
and answered. The porter is interrogated and passes on.
Heads are thrust out of the windows. The platform is
crowded with excited passengers. " I see them ! " is the
simultaneous shout. Before us rise God's pyramids, the
Rocky Mountains ! Off to the right, stretching away till
lost in the distance, are the Black Hills reputed rich in
recent gold discoveries. To the left of the road, but in
the far distance, its snow-clad sides and summits shining
in the sun, rising solemnly, grandly above its fellows, is
Long's Peak. Farther to the south, 175 miles away, its
crest also crowned with perpetual snow, is one of the
highest mountains in America, the famous Pike's Peak.
All this time we have been rolling onward and upward.
We have reached Cheyenne, in Wyoming, 516 miles from
Omaha, and 6,041 feet above the sea.
CHAPTER V.
ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS.
CHEYENNE is the most stirring city between
Omaha and Ogden. On the 4th July, '67,
there was only one house ; before the road
was completed its population numbered 6,000 a
large proportion of these, as usual, desperadoes.
Now and then the Vigilantes purged the place.
There was a promptitude and freshness about their
methods of administering justice quite in keeping with
the times; no putting off the case till "next term ;"
no appeals to higher courts; no time for bribery
or gaol breaking ; on the spot the case was tried and
sentence executed. A notorious thief was tried for
stealing ; the evidence proving insufficient, this was th e
verdict returned : " We find the prisoner not guilty ; but, if
he is smart, he will leave this town within twenty-four
hours." He left.
ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS. $1
The road moved westward, and with it the floating por-
tions of the population. Though reduced in numbers
one-half, the city had gained in moral tone and stability.
The Gospel is represented by an unusual number of
churches, and the Law by a court-house costing $40,000.
Several newspapers and a magazine are well sustained.
One of the most remarkable manufactures is moss agate
jewellery, Wyoming abounding in this beautiful stone.
The city is situated in an open, treeless plateau. The
soil, like that still westward for hundreds of miles, is
gravelly, with more or less of loam. The sub-soil, as well
as the surface here and there, shows volcanic action with
interminglings of marine fossils. Near the highest point
of the mountains I secured a fine specimen of fossil fish.
The atmosphere is surpassingly clear. Distance is des-
troyed. Again and again parties familiar with the dis-
tances set us a-guessing them. The misses were amusing.
The shot falls short of that peak seventy-five miles, instead
of twenty-five miles, as guessed. It is 100 miles away.
The atmosphere is so dry that meat cut in strips and
hung up will cure without smoke or salt ; and dead bodies
do not decay, but dry up. As the mountainous sections
of the central part of the continent become better known
the health-seeking tide will turn from the tropics to these
more healthful regions.
We received quite an accession to our company at
Cheyenne, where the road forms a junction with the
Denver road running south to that city, at which place, in
52 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
turn, it connects with the Kansas Pacific Railroad coming
from St. Louis. Some, especially sportsmen, prefer this
route, as buffalo and other game abound along the Kansas
line.
Seven miles west of Cheyenne we reach Sherman, the
highest station on the Central Pacific Railroad ; it is called
after Gen. Sherman, the tallest general in the United
States service. Rushing out of the cars, we are soon
standing on the summit of the Rocky Mountains,
back-bone of the American continent, 8,242 feet
above the sea ! A thousand questions are hurriedly
asked. " And you were really astride the back-bone ?
Does it stick up sharp and knotty? Had you any trouble
holding on ? Any danger of slipping off and ending
below in jelly or impalpable powder? Any birds or
beasts there ? Of course there is no fish ; and as for
vegetation, that too is out of the question. The top of
the Rocky Mountains must be covered with snow all the
year round."
There is no snow except in winter, and then the fall is
light. The record of '68-69 showed that the deepest
snow that fell at one time, or laid on the ground any
length of time, was in the month of May, and only three
inches deep. The sheds and fences built along the line
at this point are reared, not because of the quantity of
snow falling, but to keep the cuts clear of drifts, which are
heaped up by terrific winds. On the coldest day of that
year, January 29th, the thermometer marked only 8
ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS. 53
below zero, whilst here in Canada, even as I write, it
ranges from 15 to 40 below zero. The ravines and hills
round about abound in a species of hardy mountain pine ;
a very considerable traffic in lumber being carried on
since the opening of the railroad. The plains are covered
with grass, whilst over three hundred varieties of flowers,
growing in this and adjoining sections, have been classi-
fied. Grouse, deer, antelope and bear abound; and
as for trout, there is no place on the whole road to
equal the summit. The streams, which are numerous,
swarm with the speckled beauties. In the waters run-
ning west of the "divide," the spots on the trout are
black ; in those running east, red. Hunters and trap-
pers, if lost, catch a trout, and by the colour of the spots
determine on which side of the divide they are. The
sight-seer and sportsman can spend days hereabouts with
the liveliest satisfaction. The bracing air, the novel sur-
roundings, the wild dark landscape, the isolation from
human kind, the utter loneliness and awful grandeur all
conspire to give the summit a weird, never-to-be-forgotten
fascination.
These heights, insurmountable to Congressmen at
Washington, when approached, are scaled with scarce an
effort. Who shall roll us away the stone from the door
of the sepulchre ? And when they looked, they saw that
the stone was rolled away. How shall we go over this
Jordan ? They followed on to know the Lord, and passed
over dryshod. How shall we pass to Capernaum ?
54 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
The winds are contrary to us. The Master comes to the
toilers, and they walk the shore on the other side. Who
art thou O great mountain ? Before Zerubbabel thou
shalt become a plain. O, toiler up life's steep ! gird up thy
loins afresh. Fix thine eye on the mountain top : let no
Delilah lure thee to her lap no earthly comforts coax
thee from a Ghostly course ; upward, ever upward, in
summer's heat and winter's cold. Never rest till thy feet
press the summit. " Through Christ which strengtheneth
us, we can do all things."
We have reached Laramie, the City of the Plains.
Here the first woman jury was empannelled the first, it
may be, in the world. Invoking guidance of God,
they fearlessly brought in their verdict, to the consterna-
tion of desperadoes.
Sweeping westward through sand, sage brush and sale-
ratus, waking up one morning and looking out of the win-
dow to find the ground white with alkali ! through the
Valley of Bitter Creek, whose waters, charged with salts,
can neither be drunk nor even used in the engine, wa-
ter having to be carried in a tender for 150 miles past Car-
ter's Station, leading to Fort Bridger, named after the most
noted of the Rocky Mountain hunters and guides, James
Bridger, but most famous as the spot where, November, 1857,
General Johnston's supply waggons, with 230 souls, on
their way to Salt Lake City, were surprised by the Mor-
mons, cut off from the main body, despoiled and bidden
back again whence they came, eight only reaching their
ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS. 55
homes alive, storms, savages and starvation destroying the
rest by Bear River City, in early railroad days populous
and prosperous, where the roughs, driven westward or
following the extending line, made a halt and swore they
would go no farther, but fight it out. Retreating to the
hills, they organized a raid on the town, but three of their
number, noted garotters and murderers, staying behind,
were seized by the citizens and strung up on the spot.
The raiders swooped down upon the city, loosed some of
their fellows from the gaol, and raised a general riot. A
score of lives were lost, but the roughs were made to
" move on." Now nothing remains to mark even the site
of the city save a few weather-worn posts, tumble-down
chimneys, piles of old boots, broken bottles and oyster cans.
Soon we were rushing down Echo Canyon, 25 miles
long. Through it runs a stream fringed with the greenest
of grass. Here and there on a fertile spot nestles the
cabin of a herdsman. The left side is grassy, sloping
smoothly upward ; but the right is a marvellous conglom-
eration of red rocks, rising abrupt, irregular, to great
heights, cast up by the Cyclopean powers of past centuries,
and worn by the warring elements of wind and water into
all imaginable formations gateways, pillars, bastions,
ramparts, parapets, tower and dome.
Now and then the Canyon is cut by lateral ones, into
whose deep, dark openings, half-shuddering, you cast a
hurried look, as into the mouth of some fabled monster of
the mountains.
5 6 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Here, in stage days, snow-slides frequently overwhelmed
the traveller.
On the edge of the wall, rising 1,000 feet perpendicu-
larly over our heads, are the remains of fortifications
built by the Mormons, in 1857, to hinder the march of
General Johnston, to whom we have already referred.
The design was to hurl down upon the troops a shower
of rocks a design never carried out. The ruins remain
another monument of Mormon folly.
Passing Pulpit Rock, overhanging the Canyon at its
foot, we enter Echo City, the border town of the Mor-
mon Territory of Utah. Settlers are thickly scattered
over the narrow but fertile flats on the eastern side of
the Wasatch Mountains. We are soon in Weber Can-
yon, twin to Echo, and, like it, of indescribable grandeur.
Near its mouth we pass a solitary pine, to which is nailed
a board bearing the inscription, " 1,000 miles from
Omaha." In a few moments, as if halting to hold a
parley with the Genus of the place, or repentant of rash-
ness in rushing into his domains, we stop at the foot-
of his reputed play-ground the DeviPs Slide one of
the most singular freaks of nature. Starting from the
summit of the mountains, rising on edge from 50 to 200
feet high, and running parallel with each other, about
ten feet apart, down to the river's edge, are two rocky
slabs, forced upward by some mighty internal convulsion.
Continuing our way through this wonderful gorge,
winding round the mountains, skirting or spanning the
ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS. 57
stream, creeping through tunnels black as Erebus, rush-
ing down declivities, never waiting for Charon's coming
to ferry us over, but leaping the wild waters of the
Weber, we thunder past the Devil's Gate out into the
great Salt Lake Valley the " City of the Saints."
CHAPTER VI.
MORMONDOM.
GDEN, a little off the station, at the mouth
of the Weber Canyon, 1,032 miles from
Omaha, and 882 from San Francisco, is a
stirring city of several thousand inhabitants, mostly
Mormon. Here we change to the Utah Central
for Salt Lake City, 36 miles south. As it is Satur-
day evening, the cars are crowded ; travellers anx-
ious to see the " peculiar institution " to the best
advantage aim at spending Sunday in the capital of
Mormondom. The absorbing topic of conversation
with bated breath, for we know not who may be
listening to us is the Latter Day Saints. The rail-
road is owned and officered by them, Brigham Young him-
self being President, as, indeed, he is of almost everything
else in Utah. After running a few miles, I make for the
rear platform of the last car, accompanied by an American
MORMONDOM. 59
to whom every object is familiar, this being his seventeenth
trip across the Continent. The air is indescribably de-
licious. The winds have fallen asleep. The muffled roll
of the cars is the only noise disturbing the stillness. The
moon,
" With her one white eye "
wide open, is staring down upon the landscape ; whilst off
to the right, near at hand, is Great Salt Lake, shining like
a sea of silver. A few islands break its waters, but no sail
disturbs the sleep of this Dead Sea. A few years ago a
steamer of 300 tons burden was placed upon it, to ply be-
tween Ogden and Salt Lake City ; but the building of the
Utah Central, connecting these two cities, drew away all
the business, leaving the steamer idle,
" As a painted ship upon a painted ocean."
The lake is supposed to be the remains of an inland sea,
once filling the vast basin between the Rocky and the
Sierra Nevada Mountains. It is 120 miles long and 40
wide, its waters being the saltest of all seas, excepting the
Dead, holding in solution 20 per cent, of pure salt, the
Dead Sea 24 per cent. Pork pickled in its brine twenty-
four hours is sufficiently salted to keep.
The statement of its being so dense that a swimmer can-
not sink, if he try, is a " traveller's story," not borne out
by facts.
Some are of the opinion that originally the lake was a
body of fresh water, and point to the existence of fresh-
60 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
water shells as proof. The present saltness, they assert
is caused by the washings of saline substances out of the
soil down into the basin of the lake. Others are of the
opinion that the lake rests on a vast salt bed. Though I
saw on the day of my return thousands of ducks on its
waters, still it contains no animal life. Fish, sometimes
carried into it by fresh-water streams, quickly die. It has
four river inlets besides numerous streamlets, all fresh
water, but no outlet.
For miles along the mountains, hundreds of feet above
the valley, the most unscientific eye can clearly trace an
old water-line, showing that some time in the past the lake
was from one to two thousand feet higher than at present.
The theory of its fall and rise is that the waters were at
their greatest height during the glacial age; then succeeded
a warmer period, reducing them by evaporation ; a colder
period is again creeping over the Continent, reducing in
turn the evaporation. Consequently the lake is slowly
rising, having risen twelve feet within the last twenty years.
Further, the fall of rain is annually increasing, having
doubled within the last dozen years.
If the Mormon problem is not solved by present forces,
Salt Lake, slow moving but sure, may itself settle the vexed
question. The " saints " must either escape to the moun-
tains or share the fate of Sodom.
Leaving the lake behind, the next prominent point of
interest is the " big toe of Wasatch," or Ensign Peak, two
miles north-east of the city. On its summit, overlooking
MORMONDOM. 6 1
the site of the future city, Brigham Young professed to see
in a vision the spirit of the martyred Joe Smith pointing
to the spot where the Temple was to be built.
The circumstances of our arrival at the " New Jerusa-
lem " are material and gross ; hacks, 'buses, street cars,
all wait expectant. Hustling hackmen and bawling 'bus-
boys contend for the comers. The Townsend House
Mormon with an eye to the main chance, sends a run-
ner to meet every train at Ogden ; by the time we reached
Salt Lake City he had thoroughly canvassed the passen-
gers. The crowd, moved not a little by morbid curio-
sity, go to the Townsend, and importune me to do the
same ; but my mind is made up in favor of the Gentile
Walker House. On comparing notes afterwards, it was
found that I had fared the better.
The sudden change from unpopulated, parched plains
to a great city, the gas-lights shining among the green
leaves of the locust and cottonwood, streams rippling
musically down the streets and sparkling in the moon-
light, shops brilliantly lit up, citizens gaily dressed and
thronging the broad walks all these things opening on
me abruptly, and in violent contrast to what we had so
lately left behind, seemed more like a creation of Alad-
din's Lamp than the result of patient toil. My first im-
pressions of Salt Lake City were delightful. Is all this
but the whited sepulchre, beautiful without, but within
full of dead men's bones and of all uncleanness ? Have
not travellers been prejudiced ? Have not writers written
62 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
from hearsay ? Sinned this people have, but have they
not been more sinned against ? Thus I queried that
Saturday night whilst I gazed on the hectic flush of ex-
citement glowing on the cheek of disease. When the
morning came, bringing with it the quiet, sober colors of
the Sabbath day, I walked forth into a worn and weary
city, sending up one great cry, " O Lord, how long ? "
And yet, within this rotten carcase there is honey. The
Mormons have set the world an example of devotion and
indomitable energy. Driven from their homes for the
fourth time in '46, their prophet slain, their Temple burnt,
turning their backs on Nauvoo, halting for breath at
Council Bluffs, on the banks of the Missouri, they set
their faces towards the Great American Desert, not know-
ing, as they declare, whither they went, but resolved to
die in the desert before giving up their religion. On the
24th of July, 1847, an advance body entered Great Salt
Lake Valley. Five days after 150 more arrived ; two days
later, July 3ist, the city was laid out. They found a tree-
less desert, yielding little beyond alkali. A few Digger
Indians the most degraded of the race supported a
miserable existence on devil's brush and grasshoppers.
The only white man within hundreds of miles was an old
trapper, who laughed at their living in such a place. So
incredulous was he as to the resources of the soil, that he
offered them $i;ooo for the first ear of corn. Nothing
daunted, they planted as they prayed. Faith and works
will feed the hungry. Brigham's sharp eye saw the golden
MORMONDOM. 63
sheaves of Ceres shining'in those mountain streams. The
waters were poured into the thirsty land. The sleeping
soil leaped with life. " The pastures were covered over
with flocks ; the valleys also were covered over with
corn." The desert had blossomed as the rose.
Under a high state of cultivation 93 bushels of wheat
have been yielded to the acre. Within the Tabernacle
of which more anon I saw two arches, remains of a re-
cent celebration, symbolizing the productions of the soil
at two different periods viz., '47, when they arrived, and
'74, the present. The first was chiefly composed of sage
brush and wild sunflower ; the second, of branches of the
trees adorning the streets, the various grains, including
corn and sorghum all prettily set off by various flowers
common to European countries from which the emigrants
had come.
The site of the city is well chosen, whether indicated
by reason or revelation.
On the west side of the Wasatch ; on the uplands of
their lower declivity, affording ample drainage towards the
Jordan ; easily supplied from the mountains with an
abundance of the purest water ; fronted by a valley 60
miles long and 25 wide, capable, under careful cultiva-
tion, of almost incredible returns ; embosomed by the
loveliest of mountain ranges, rich in precious ore ; and
favored with an atmosphere proverbially pure, the site of
Salt Lake City is one of the most charming in the world.
The city covers about 3,000 acres. Its streets are 128
64 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
feet broad, and laid out at right angles. Through every
street run living waters, under the control of Commis-
sioners. Every lot has rights of irrigation and general
supply. The houses, mostly of adobe sun-dried bricks
rise up in the midst of gardens and fruit trees apples,
cherries, plums, peaches, pears, apricots, etc. Several
varieties of shade trees adorn the public thoroughfares.
The population numbers 25,000, four-fifths being Mor-
mons. The entire territory of Utah numbers 125,000,
mostly Mormons, and is steadily increasing, through immi-
gration, at the rate of 5,000 annually. Five hundred ar-
rived from European countries while I was there. As soon
as they come in sight of the Holy City, if journeying in
waggons, they alight and prostrate themselves upon the
ground, rapturously kissing the sacred soil.
The immigrants are composed chiefly of Danes, Swedes,
Norwegians and English the last, from the lowest
classes, forming two-thirds of the number. The Mormon
missionaries address themselves exclusively to the igno-
rant and impoverished. Painting in glowing colors the
promised land flowing with milk and honey, offering them
a free passage over the Atlantic and a safe transit across
the Continent, with immediate help on their arrival in
Utah all which is faithfully fulfilled it is not surprising
that, presenting such inducements, they should gain over
so many to Mormonism. But there is another side to
this much-boasted benevolence. Every dollar expended
on their emigration is charged to them on the Church
MORMONDOM. 65
books, and at such rates of interest as renders payment,
with tithes additional, all but impossible ; the result is,
the mass remain serfs in the service of the Church.
Within the Temple grounds I met a burly Englishman
who had been in the "land of promise" eleven years.
He was evidently a sincere believer in the doctrines of the
Church, but ill at ease in her temporalities. When he
learned I was from the Queen's dominions, he took fire
and went off in a genuine burst of loyalty to the old
land. " No, sir, there is no place in the world like old
England ; but I had to come here to get the pure Gospel."
Mormon missionaries seldom or never make a convert
out of an Irish Roman Catholic. I leave the solution of
this to the thoughtful.
The city is laid out in 260 squares, of 10 acres each.
Brigham's block, on the east, running up the mountain
side, the most commanding site in the city, is enclosed by
a solid stone wall eleven feet high, and contains tithing-
house, offices, harem, barns, mill and factories. Prying
eyes may not penetrate the secrets of the seraglio. Brig-
ham himself is usually accessible to visitors, and much
gratified by their attentions ; but sickness and fears of
assassination had closed the door some time prior to my
coming. I was not disappointed. I did not seek " to
pay my respects to him, because I had no respects to
pay." However, in passing one day I unconsciously
turned my eyes to an open door in the wall, and saw
within a withered wife and several sickly " olive plants "
66 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
about her. The number of his wives have been variously
stated from 17 to 70. They occupy several houses, all
within the enclosure. Directly opposite, across the street,
he was just completing, for his youngest and favorite
wife, Amelia Folsom, a very palace, costing $IO<D,OOO.
Not one quarter of the Mormons are polygamists, for
the simple reason they are too poor to support more than
one wife. The men are usually enthusiastic advocates of
the plurality doctrine, but the women, with few excep-
tions, are against it. Brigham's own daughters declare
they will never marry a man with a second wife. The
women generally endure it as a cross, in hope of the higher
happiness which it ensures in heaven.
The wives, though coming largely from the ruddy-
faced, robust classes in the old country, are, notwith-
standing, prematurely aged ; a dejected, disconsolate look
is all but universal. The children are chiefly of Saxon
eyes and hair, but ill-formed, and wear a wizened look.
The men are a motley mass, but, on the whole, the better
looking. Let us hasten to the Temple block. It lies
alongside of Brigham's separated by a street between
South Temple Street and the mountain. It also is en-
closed by a massive stone wall. The old tabernacle has
been taken down, but in its stead rises the new, a huge
stone structure, turtle-shaped. It is 250 feet long and 150
wide, with a height, from floor to ceiling, of 65 feet.
The roof is supported at the rim by 46 columns or but-
tresses running round the walls. Within, not a solitary
MORMONDOM. 67
pillar breaks the sweep of the splendid arch. Next to
the Central Depot in New York, and the Military Drill
Shed in St. Petersburg, it is the largest self-supporting root
in the world.
A spacious gallery surrounds it on two sides and one
end, but is never used except on special occasions, when
the "tribes" come up to worship at " Mount Zion."
The seats, unpainted pine and uncushioned, rise as they
recede. A few steps from the front, in the midst of the
fathers and mothers in " Israel," are seats reserved for
strangers Gentile travellers ; they are always full. The
entire sitting capacity is 13,000 ; the ordinary congrega-
tion ranges from 6,000 to 10,000.
Twenty-two double doors afford ample means of in-
gress and egress. The time taken in getting out by a
congregation of 6,000, on an ordinary occasion, was six
seconds less than three minutes.
The acoustic properties are perfect. In order to test
the matter, on entering I took my seat in the rear, 200
feet from the choir and speaker. Every note and utter-
ance were distinctly heard.
Just before the sermon began I slipped out and re-entered
farther up, taking my place in the Gentile pews. The
sexes sit both separate and together. The front of the
galleries, the walls, the ceiling are all elaborately deco-
rated with evergreens and mottoes, the remains of a recent
Sabbath school celebration. Among the mottoes are a
few immortalizing the memory of their " martyred pro-
68 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
phet," Joe Smith. Brigham is exalted beyond measure.
That which attracted the most attention from the Gentiles,
creating not a little amusement, was " Utah's best crop
the children."
I never saw before such a " multitude of impotent folk,
blind, halt, withered, waiting for the moving of the waters."
I do not desire to jest with the deformities of the af-
flicted; but it does seem as if Mormonism, ill-favored itself,
attracts to " Zion " few of the Rachels, but many of the
ill-favored Leahs.
At the north end of the tabernacle, facing the congre-
gation, is the organ, built by an Englishman, taking five
years. It is the third largest in the world. Converging
at the organ's front are the two wings of singers, number-
ing 100. The leader, standing at the back of the organist,
faces the choir at an angle, and the congregation in full.
Next the choir, divided in half, and forming a block to
the outer ends of the letter V formed by the singers, is the
Council of Seventy ; they are composed of seniors, with a
sprinkling of sleek, meek-eyed youths. Directly in the
mouth of the letter V is the President's pulpit. Brigham
only ministers in this. In front of this, and a little lower
down, is the common pulpit, in which his subordinates
hold forth. In front of that again, and still lower, is pulpit
number three, in which prayers are offered and announce-
ments made.
Still lower, and next the congregation, is the altar on
which the " elements ; ' are spread. The communion, in
MORMONDOM. ()()
bread and water never wine is celebrated every Sab
bath. About these pulpits and altar, up and down,
according to their dignity, are seated " dignitaries "
Apostles, Bishops and Elders. There are two or three
intellectual-looking faces ; the rest range downwards to
utter shallowness.
The organ is mellow as a flute, or grand as thunder.
The singing, for clearness of utterance and brilliancy, is
unsurpassed by any choir efforts to which I ever listened .
A New York lady sitting at my side, who had spent a por-
tion of her life in England and on the Continent, was en-
raptured with the marvellous melody, rolling, swelling,
rilling every part of the vast edifice. For the time one
forgot the dread delusion, and was lifted into a higher
life.
The preacher of the day is George A. Smith, nephew
of Joe, and first counsellor to Brigham, also his probable
successor. He is a large man of full habit, and possess-
ing very considerable animal magnetism. His oratory is
of the " stump " order, more vigorous than refined. The
physical rather than the spiritual predominates. I should
say perhaps I am wrong that he " makes provision
for the flesh, to fulfil the lusts thereof." The text is from
the Bible, Acts ii. 37, 38 ; the sermon, from everywhere
but heaven above. It is made up of hash and slash. All
the Christian sects come in for a " cutting up." John
Wesley, honored by the Dean of Westminster with a niche
in the Abbey, is pilloried in the Mormon tabernacle by this
70 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
lighter of religion. Whenever he makes a " hit," the
eyes of the " Council " and congregation are turned to-
wards the Gentile seats to see the effects of the shot.
The " faithful " show their appreciation by giggles, nods
and winks, itchings and shuffling feet. To the devout, the
sermon is "husks," and its delivery a desecration of the
Sabbath day ; to the worldly, a farce almost as good as
going to the theatre. The service closes with another
hymn, the grandest of all, which somewhat softens down
the asperities of the sermon.
Near the tabernacle, to the south, is the temple, its
foundations having been laid as long ago as 1853. " They
began to build and were not able to finish," and many are
the mockers. It is a magnificent structure on paper
claiming to be the finest in the world. It is of Gothic
architecture, 186^ feet long and 99 wide, with six spires.
The material is cut stone, quarried from the mountains 16
miles distant. It is to be devoted, not to public worship,
but to the peculiar ordinances of their religion sealing in
marriage. Already one million dollars have been expend-
ed on it. The bleeding saints declare they have contri-
buted enough to build it to the clouds ; and yet it has risen
hardly a man's height above ground. Where has the
money gone ? Where ? Why, to the same place that a
great deal more, wrung by tithes and special assessments
from a deluded, industrious people, has gone into the
coffers of the Church, which are the capacious pockets of
the prophet-president. Brigham Young is the Church.
MORMON DOM. 71
Still the work is going on, and a patient people respond
to the cry, " Give ! give ! "
Will the temple ever be finished ? No ; if the signs of
the times mean anything, they declare the days of this de-
lusion and lie numbered. The eye of a long-suffering
God followed them as they " journeyed from the East,"
and has been looking down upon them " in the plain in
the land of Shinar"all the while of their labor to make them
a name. The day of confusion is coming. The scatter-
ing is sure. They shall leave off to build the city. The
tower shall never reach unto heaven. Already is Babel
written on their work. The railroad is introducing into
Mormondom elements of disintegration. A tide of travel,
each individual adding impetus to the encroaching sea, is
daily pouring into the city. Whether they come to stay
or depart, their influence remains. Gentile dress and man-
ners are rapidly corrupting the " daughters of Zion," in
spite of the disgust and denunciations of prophet and
priest.
The Church, for years a deadly Upas to all Gentile in-
dustry, issued an edict in '68 requiring every Mormon
shop to paint upon its front a large eye, with the words
" Holiness to the Lord ; Zion's Co-operative Association."
Here, and nowhere else, the " faithful " were to trade,
The then few Gentiles were forced, from want of custom.
" To fold their tents, like the Arabs,
And, as silently, steal away."
One man, however, a plucky auctioneer, procured the
72 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
painting of a Gentile sign highly symbolical, and placed
it on his shop front in the morning. In the evening it
was pulled down and dragged through the streets by en-
raged Mormons. He, too, succumbed, and started. That
was in '69, the beginning of a new and more liberal era
the completion of the Trans-Continental Railroad. Now
the best hotel and many of the most flourishing places of
business are Gentile. The irrepressible John Chinaman
is here, squeezing himself into any hole having front enough
to swing a sign " Washing and Ironing, by Chung Foo."
For years Brigham prohibited prospecting for precious
metals, under pain of excommunication ; now, prospec-
tors, stock speculators, and operators in all imaginable
patents and undertakings, swarm through the streets and
among the mountains.
The theatre still stands, but is no longer under Mormon
but Gentile control. Brigham seldom goes. His daughters
have disappeared from the " boards."
The Court-house remains, an object of hatred to the
Mormons, but of respect to every true lover of law and or-
der. In '63, Congress passed a law making polygamy a
crime. Judge McKean was sent out to Utah to enforce it
and other wholesome measures. He may, as some assert,
be lacking in prudence, but not in push. Though his pro-
ceedings have not always been endorsed by the Supreme
Court at Washington, still he is continued in office for the
same reason that Butler was kept in New Orleans to
cleanse the Augean stable. The eagle, neither asleep nor
MORMONDOM. 73
blinking in its distant eyrie, but thoroughly roused to the
interests involved, hovers over the " hills of Zion." "All
the nobility " the chief himself, even Brigham has been
in " durance vile." Cannon, a " great one," and delegate
to Congress, has been brought to bar. Neither gold, nor
cunning, nor threats avail. None are feared, none are
passed by. Camp Douglas, on a " bench " of the moun-
tains, and commanding the city, is ever on the alert, brist-
ling with open-mouthed cannon. The stars and stripes
float over the autocrat of Utah whether he will or not.
Free speech and a fearless press are as common in the
City of Mormondom as in the Capitol at Washington.
What a few years ago had to be spoken in the closet is now
proclaimed on the house-top. The Episcopalians, Presby-
terians, ' Methodists and Congregationalists have opened
Sabbath schools, built churches, and are otherwise vigor-
ously at work undermining the " man of sin." Vice-Presi-
dent Colfax harangues the multitude against Brigham
Young from the balcony of the chief Mormon hotel. Dr.
Newman, Methodist Chaplain to the U. S. Senate, de-
bates with Elder Orson Pratt against polygamy in the
Mormon Tabernacle.
On the public street I met a big German, who openly
cursed the day of his coming among the " saints." " They
have," said he, " too much religion of the wrong kind."
On my way to a Christian church, on Sabbath morning, I
fell in with an intelligent Englishman, who at home had
been a preacher of the Gospel, but was proselytized by
F
74 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Mormon missionaries, and induced to emigrate a poor
prodigal in a far land, on his way this Lord's day to a
saloon. He stopped for a few minutes to talk with me,
bitterly denouncing Mormonism as a system of oppression
and robbery for the enrichment of the hierarchy. Before
the day was over, the "little children " of the "Church"
were uttering some of the sharpest sayings against the sys-
tem that I heard.
Anti-Mormon publications are freely circulated. The
Tribune, an eight-page anti-Mormon paper, published
every Saturday, is charged with scorn and sting. The
wife of a poor laborer in the service of the " Church " ap-
plied at the tithing house on Saturday night for the week's
dues. It was "after hours," but the clerk was there. She
pleaded her children's needs not food enough to last
through the Sabbath day. The plea fell on unpitying
ears. Listen to the Tribunes comment thereon : " That
clerk smiled at her distress with such a leer of satisfaction
as ghouls are said to enjoy over weird and horrible jokes.
Tears and humble entreaties followed, as this helpless
mother begged a crumb of her husband's earnings to keep
the little ones alive over Sunday, but all to no purpose.
That fiend in charge of the capacious bins of flour was
obdurate as his master, and drove the woman off to starve
in the midst of her famishing offspring. .. . . On that
same Sunday the clerk of the tithing house attended the
Tabernacle services, and with bowed head said 'Amen'
when the gluttonous Pharisee blasphemed the Almighty in
MORMONDOM. 75
boasting that ' they were not like other men.' And such is
the ' kingdom of God/ and its greedy gourmands who de-
fraud the laborer of his wages, and steal from the mouths of
hungry children."
Not only is there open outside hostility, but what is
worse, rebellion in the camp. The boasted unity of
Mormonism is a rope of sand. The one-man power,
once absolute, is going to pieces. The Church is rent by
discords. There are three different sects calling them-
selves Mormon, and a growing number of out-and-out
apostates. Elder Stenhouse, one of their most energetic
and successful missionaries ever sent into other lands, has
cast off all allegiance to the " refuge of lies," and on the
spot is turning his powerful artillery of pen and tongue
against the stronghold. Whilst I was in San Francisco,
Ann Eliza Young, having left Brigham's " bed and
board," was lecturing against her late lord and master to
crowded houses. A man named Hicks, for thirty years a
Mormon, came out in a letter to the Tribune denouncing
Brigham " as knowing and conniving at many of the
crimes of blood which were attributed to the Indians by
the Mormons."
In other years cunning and violence were the means
employed to close the mouth or prevent the escape of
apostates. At first when Fort Douglas was established
by the Government, the fugitives fled to the cover of its
guns, and were conveyed out of Utah under military
escort. If they attempted to escape in any other way,
7 6 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
they had to steal away or go in sufficient numbers for
self-defence.
On his seventieth birth-day Brigham received the con-
gratulations of a delegation of Apostles, Bishops and
Elders. In their oration he was addressed as " sovereign,''
and assured that " he should live to see the day when all
the kings of the earth would come to Zion to seek his
advice." Not long ago, searched out and hemmed in by
his enemies, he talked of a hegira to the Saskatchewan,
and now, in '74, to New Mexico ; but Mormonism has
made its last move. Pressed at every point without by
apostates, railroads, Christian Churches and rigorous laws ;
rent by contending factions within ; the chief himself, the
greatest governing power in the body, ready to drop into
the grave, Mormonism, after a brief but ill-spent life, pale
and palsied, hastens to its dissolution. I entered the city
under auspicious circumstances ; I left it in disgust. I
have seen enough of the monstrous system. I never
want to look upon the spot again until cleansed of its
leprosy. It is a " whited sepulchre, full of dead men's
bones and of all uncleanness."
" And such is man ; a soil which breeds
Or sweetest flowers or vilest weeds ;
Flowers lovely as the morning light,
Weeds deadly as the aconite ;
Just as his heart is trained to bear,
The poisonous weed or flowret fair."
CHAPTER VII.
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT.
HE vast country lying between British Amer-
ica and Northern Mexico, Western Kansas
and California, was marked on the old maps
The Great American Desert." It was pronounced
incapable of producing anything beyond sage-brush,
grease-wood, coarse cactus, dwarfed pines and
alkali. All these are still found, from the uplands
of the Rocky Mountains on the east to the slopes of
the Sierras on the west, a distance of 1,000 miles ;
but recent enterprise has brought to light, in the
midst of these wastes, inexhaustible beds of coal and
iron. Further experiments of irrigation have proved
that the soil is highly productive of all the ordinary grains
and grasses. At Humboldt, in the midst of lava deposits,
alkali, sand and sage-brush, I found the purest water and
the greenest garden on the entire road. Flowers, grasses,
7 8 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
vegetables, corn and fruit trees, refreshed by unfailing
fountains in their midst, were flourishing to the wonder of
everybody. " The parched ground had become a pool ;
it blossomed abundantly." It is not at all improbable
that, in the course of time, the glory of Lebanon and the
excellency of Carmel and Sharon shall be given to these
now barren heights.
The question is so often asked, by those ignorant of its
latent resources, " Why did the Almighty ever make
the Great American Desert ? " Mark Twain is said to
have answered : " To run the Great Overland Railroad
through ; " and it is certainly the distinguishing feature of
the desert to-day.
We came as far as Ogden by the Union Pacific
Railroad ; there we changed to the Central Pacific, run-
ning through to San Francisco. Though 150 miles
shorter than the Union, it is, in view of greater obstacles
overcome in building, by far the grander achievement. Its
history, a twice-told tale, will never lose its lustre while the
world admires the high heroism that, risking everything
for a worthy end, undertakes and accomplishes the unpo-
pular and impossible. Not to Government, but to private
individuals, Californians, belongs the credit of conceiving
and carrying to completion this splendid scheme helped,
it is true, at the last, and generously, by Government grants.
Men had talked railroad and Legislatures had approved,
but nothing had been done. To an obscure but far-see-
ing engineer, bearing the name of Judah, belongs the honor
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT. 79
of actually inaugurating the enterprize. He commenced
the campaign in the shop of Huntingdon and Hopkins, a
well-to-do but cautious firm in the then insignificant city
of Sacramento. During the long winter evenings he
talked the matter up. At first he was laughed at, then
pitied; " He has gone mountain-mad railroad-crazy, "said
the unbelieving. Nothing daunted, glowing with enthu-
siasm, sanguine of success, he talked on. The fire spread.
Huntingdon was converted. Now there were two to
talk. Then Hopkins came over, and soon two or three
more, making up a half dozen the army bound to march
against the mountains ! They gave $50 each towards a
survey over the Sierras. As soon as summer melted the
snows, Judah and his assistants were at work. In winter
they returned, ragged, but rich in hope. Their report
inspired more general confidence. Public meetings were
held to furnish information and raise money. Business
was unsettled. It was the days of " ups and downs."
Men were among mines ; they never knew whether the
next move would be a "find" or a "blow up." To
lessen liability to the latter, and save the simple from
unscrupulous adventurers, the State passed a law making
every shareholder answerable for the debts of a company.
As the debts were sure, and dividends not, men were
cautious about putting their names on the stock books.
Hence there were no subscribers to the survey, only
unwritten gifts from $5 upwards. Enough was given to
go on with the work.
8o TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
The following summer found the engineer and his assis-
tants once more among the mountains. Their second
report confirmed the first : " We have found a pass the
road can be built." All this is but preliminary. A
thorough survey, a safe line for the builder to follow and
a good guarantee to capitalists, remains to be run. But
where is the money to come from ? Sacramento, suffering
from a flood, has as much as she can do to keep her own
head above water. San Francisco, sitting among her bags
of gold, swallows down mining stock ad infinitum, but
strains at this scheme, and finally spews it out ; she never
gives a dollar. Judah returns from his mission disap-
pointed, but not discouraged. The little band, not to be
beaten, bound themselves into a compact for three years,
agreeing therein to pay all necessary expenses of a com-
plete survey out of their own pockets.
In 1862 Judah went to Washington $135,000, the sum
necessary to secure a charter, having been pledged. He
had an " axe to grind " well worth the grinding. He lob-
bied, he "log rolled," he spread information, charts,
maps ; clear and conclusive data in abundance were left
on tables, put in the seats, hung on the walls ; wherever
the "members" turned they were met by the great rail-
road scheme. Attention was thoroughly roused. The
extreme east and the remotest west stood side by side in the
struggle. Morrill of Maine and Sargent of San Francisco
joined hands. One with them were Colfax, Vice-Presi-
dent to be, and Campbell, of Pennsylvania, both idolized
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT. 8 1
to-day in California. Week after week they argued and
battled for the Bill. Sage, Senator from Illinois, sneer-
ingly said to Sargent : " Do I understand the gentleman
from California to say that he actually expects this road
to be built ? "
"The gentleman from Illinois may understand me to
predict that, if this Bill is passed, the road will be finished
within ten years," was the reply.
The Bill was gaining ground. Still, how strange !
Congress could not see any commercial gain in the enter-
prize. The country was rent by rebellion, and they could
see the motions of the red hand of war. The eyes of the
South were fixed on the golden shores of the Pacific.
Mexico was not yet reconciled to her loss. It was hinted,
but afterwards withdrawn, that England was casting wistful
eyes westward. The war had " developed some low mut-
terings about a Pacific Republic. 5 ' At last, as a military
necessity, the Bill was passed; in July, 1862, the road was
chartered from the Missouri to the Pacific. The endow-
ments were munificent, being the same to the Central as
to the Union, as already stated in a previous chapter.
Judah is jubilant, but not blind. Over the wires flashes the
message : " The Bill has passed and we have drawn the
elephant." What is to be done with it? Congress has
voted help to be given when the toiler is well up the
mountain. Before they can have a dollar of the Govern-
ment grant, the road must be built forty miles, embracing
a good portion of the heavier work up into the Sierras,
82 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
and stocked at a cost of $4,000,000 ! Where are these
millions to come from ? They set forth the survey which
shows the scheme feasible ; they figure up the profits that
must accrue to the shareholders and State ; they hold up
the charter with its royal endowments ; and then they
appeal to the country for capital. Stock books were
opened. Subscriptions to the amount of eight and a-half
million dollars sufficient to build the road to Lake
Tahoe, the State line on the summit of the Sierras were
asked for.
Once more they sought San Francisco. The wealth
if not the wisdom of Solomon was there. The great dis-
covery of 1848 had made "gold as plenteous in the
streets as stones." But capital was mostly in the hands-
of Southerners and monopolists. The building of the
road was the last thing that either desired ; it would blast
the hopes of the Secessionists centring west of the Rocky
Mountains, and as surely break up monopolies. A
second time they gave the scheme the go-by ; worse, they
ridiculed it they assailed it in the public prints as a
money-making scheme for the enrichment of a handful of
Republican adventurers. They were charged to begone
as common, or rather uncommon, swindlers ; and they
went, not as swindlers, but as slandered, shaking off the
" venomous viper " only as they disappeared from view
over the summit of the Sierras.
Only two San Franciscans took shares, and one of
these was a woman. One person in Nevada standing
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT. 3
on its inexhaustible silver mines, waiting to be opened
up by the road had faith enough to take one share. A
few more ventured to invest in the " swindle," until $600
were subscribed to build a road across the Continent !
One man, a banker, friendly to the undertaking, but aware
of the influential opposition that existed, refused to lend
help, alleging that if it were known that he was giving any
countenance to that " South Sea Bubble," the bank
might share the fate of the bubble.
It must have been a searching hour to the promoters of
the scheme when the shares taken were summed up
$600 towards building a road to cost $200,000,000 !
It is three years since these men were converted to the
scheme. Men, like its fruits, grow fast in California.
The little band had strengthened with the struggle ; they
had risen under the burden into a hardier manhood. To-
day, when the scheme is enveloped in a darkness that
might be felt, they rise their highest and see the farthest.
Soon the great heart of \hzpeople the bone and sinew of
the land, the working men and working women scattered
over the State beats in sympathy with the shares ; they
had been in sympathy with the scheme all along ; it had
been the watchword at the polls ; no man who was anti-
railroad could get to Congress. Now the people are
ready to take stock as well as give their votes. But in
these times they were still poor they could do but little
only a drop in the bucket.
If the leaders had not been men of profound foresight
84 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
and iron nerve, the struggling scheme had died of sheer
starvation in a land of gold. It was a long time before
the shares ran up to a million and a half of dollars. Some-
thing more must be done. There is little hope at home ;
even if they could borrow round about them, where every-
thing is fabulously dear, the high rate of interest would be
ruinous two per cent, a month ! The road is long, and
it will be years, at the earliest, before it can make returns.
They can never stand the interest in the meantime. Some
one with skill and courage must go East, among the
" Bulls and Bears " of Wall Street. The first convert,
now Vice-President of the road and Financial Manager,
is the man. Huntingdon goes. He is greeted with
growls on the one hand and horns on the other. Nothing
daunted, but armed with facts and figures, he slays the
bear that threatened his lamb, and fearlessly takes the bull
by the horns. Pledging his own and his associates' pri-
vate fortunes to the last cent, he gets the money.
Old fogies saw only a shining shell, and " buttoned up
their pockets," but young America, wide awake, saw a
" big thing " therein. The firm of Fisk and Hatch took
hold of the scheme vigorously.
From five to twenty million dollars per year were
wanted. It was promised. The Company's bonds were
put upon the market. One of the cleverest journalists of
the day was employed to write them up.
The newspaper is the great power of America. Every-
body reads the papers, whether they go to church or not.
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT. 85
Soon the great railroad was the common topic, from the
fish -mongers of Fulton Ferry to the princely up-town mer-
chants.
Seven days to San Francisco, instead of twenty-one by
the Isthmus escape from the sea and the " horrors of the
middle passage " the opening up of a vast territory to
the settler and to the miner mountains rich in minerals
the furnishing facilities for protecting more effectually
possessions on the Pacific Coast a more attractive
channel to at least a portion of the $500,000,000 of the
annual foreign commerce of China all these gains, with
the Government securities, were set in glowing terms
before the people. The scheme took. Funds came in
faster and faster, until the prices of bonds had to be
rapidly raised to keep them from selling too fast. The
clouds were emptying themselves upon the earth after the
long and weary drought. The Nile was overflowing its
banks with superabundant wealth.
At last, European capitalists, who have invested so
largely in New World interests, and been sometimes
badly bitten too, closed the books by subscribing at once
for five millions worth.
Again the scene shifts to Sacramento. Whilst the
city which had given birth to the scheme and carefully
nursed it until now was still unrecovered from a fearful
flood ; whilst the whole land was rent by civil war ;
whilst labor was scarce and wages high ; whilst pro-
phets of evil were predicting "black failure;" whilst
86 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
almost everything argued .the undertaking born out of due
season, and eminent engineers also argued before Govern-
ment Committees that the scheme had no business to be
born at all that, in fine, it was utterly impracticable
under these circumstances, the President of the road,
Governor Stanford, all undaunted, and sustained by
kindred spirits, turned the first sod at Sacramento the
22nd of February, 1863. Tried and tempted, they pre-
served their integrity. When their " bonds " were " all
the rage " in the market, merchants were eager to sell
them material.
" Buy of me," said one, " and I'll pay a handsome
commission into your private purse."
" Never," said the clean-handed Huntingdon; " I want
all the commissions I can get, but they must be put in
the bill ; this road must be built without any stealings."
Picks, powder, iron, even to every spike, locomotives,
everything has to be brought from the East by way of
Cape Horn, 16,000 miles, running great risks and taking
from eight to ten months. Irish laborers are brought
from the East and Celestials from the West. Ten
thousand Chinese are put upon the road ; faithful, quick
to learn, working cheaper than the others, they are found
invaluable. The workmen are promptly paid, and a regu-
lation is passed prohibiting the use of strong drink. The
Chinese did not need the prohibition they do not drink.
Though the Chinese swarm, saloons and groggeries go
down j but the Irishmen did need the regulation. The
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT. 87
work goes on. It reaches the Sierras. Long grades of 1 16
feet rise to the mile have to be overcome. Here and there
the track can find a passage only by doubling on itself ;
again only by crossing canyons on trestle work 265 feet
high. In one place the way is 1,500 feet above a black
gorge, and on a mountain side so steep that workmen have
to be let down from above by ropes, and held until they
can pick a foothold. Sometimes, in a ' single night,
thousands of tons of soil and stone slide down upon the
track. At the summit, 7,017 feet above the sea, snow
fell sixty feet deep ; they had to tunnel through it to their
work, and seven miles of it had to be shovelled off the
track. Thirteen tunnels had to be cut through solid gra-
nite, an aggregate length of 6,050 feet over a mile the
longest one at the summit, 1,659 feet, causing a delay of
thirteen months. So difficult was it to reach the summit
that the road had to diverge seven miles out of the direct
course. The snow belt of the Sierras required the erection
of more than forty miles of sheds, at a cost of $10,000 per
mile.
Four years are consumed in crossing the Sierras ; but
these, like other hindrances, are left behind. No longer
cramped, but rejoicing in enlargement, the road stretches
out across the Great American Desert. A new difficulty
meets it here. The soil is saturated with alkali, poison-
ing all the streams. Water has to be brought forty miles ;
wood, twenty. But what is this to men who have overcome
mountains ? Faster and faster the line is laid. All hands
88 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
work as if intoxicated with success. At the last, under
the influence of a $10,000 wager between the Union and
the Central, now nearing each other, ten miles are laid in
one day eight men walking ten miles, and handling 1,000
tons of iron each. In the " merry month of May," the
loth day, 1869, the roads meet at Promontory Point, in
the middle of the Desert, 830 miles from San Francisco,
and 1,084 from Omaha.
On Monday morning two long trains of cars approach
each other, one from the east, the other from the west,
both filled with an eager company gathered from all
parts of this and other lands, even from far China !
We look in vain for one face now familiar. Judah is
not there. Worn-out and penniless, he fell before the
goal was reached, but not uncommemorated. He has
reared his own monument.
Over the wastes of sand and alkali swarm the excited
crowd. But what are deserts and mountains to these men ?
Only memorials of the miracles of patience and energy
which subdued them for the weal of man. Hand shakings
and warm congratulations brighten the picture. The
story of the scheme its feeble beginnings, its obstruc-
tions, its enemies, its faithful friends is told over and
over again. The speed and comfort of travel, the golden
gains, the world-wide prestige, are all painted in glowing
colors. There are no cavillers, no prophets of evil now ;
only one spirit stirs that throng the spirit of splendid
success. They are not to rejoice alone. Arrangements
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT. 89
have been made with the telegraph lines running side by
side with the track across the Continent, by which, at the
finishing stroke, a simultaneous burst of gladness shall go
up from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The Golden State,
brimful of joy, like a boy let out from school with task
well done, attaches the wires to the great fire alarm bel
suspended in the City tower of San Francisco. The last
tie, a piece of the beautiful Californian laurel, exquisitely
finished and bearing a silver plate with suitable inscrip-
tion, is laid in its place. Three spikes, one of gold from
California, one of silver from Nevada, and one of gold,
silver and iron from Arizona, are ready for their place.
The sun is mounting to the zenith. The final moment
draws near. The crowd presses closer round the charmed
spot. A solemn stillness settles down upon them. An
unseen Presence is strangely felt. With uncovered heads
they give God thanks and crave His continued blessing.
Then, lifting their eyes upward, they see the sun in the
midst of the heavens looking straight down upon them
from the " Father of lights," as if He were answering
while they are yet speaking. At mid-day to a minute,
the President of the Central Pacific, who turned the first
sod in Sacramento six years before, takes a silver mallet,
with telegraph wires attached to the handle, and drives
the last spike. Every stroke thrills throughout the land.
Swifter than winged winds fly the tidings the work is
done the roads are joined the East and West are bound
90 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
together by iron bands the iron horse has an unbroken
course across the Continent.
Starting westward from the Atlantic ; rolling over the
St. Lawrence ; spanning Niagara ; racing across the prai-
ries ; climbing the Rocky Mountains ; sweeping through
the Great American Desert ; piercing the " everlasting
hills ; " winding round the summit of the Sierras ; rushing
down their western declivity ; stretching, like a mettled
courser, with unslackened speed, across the Sacramento
valley to San Francisco, one unbroken run of 4,000
miles, speeding men en route around the world, is an
achievement before which one stands amazed appalled
at the power given unto man. Fire and water, no longer
given over to the government of mythical gods, have be-
come man's subjects and man's servants. From ocean to
ocean, from continent to continent, girdling the globe with
one unbroken strain, is heard the triumphant Song of
Steam :
" Harness me down with your iron bands,
Be sure of your curb and rein,
For I scorn the strength of your puny hands,
As the tempest scorns a chain.
How I laughed as I lay concealed from sight
For many a countless hour,
At the childish boasts of human might,
And the pride of human power.
" When I saw an army upon the land,
A navy upon the seas,
Creeping along, a snail-like band,
Or waiting a wayward breeze ;
A MAGNIFICENT ACHIEVEMENT.
When I saw the peasant reel
With the burden he faintly bore,
As he turned at the tardy wheel,
Or toiled at the weary oar.
" When I measured the panting courser's speed,
The flight of the carrier dove,
As they bore the law a king decreed,
Or the lines of impatient love,
I could but think how the world would feel
As these were outstripped afar,
When I should be bound to the rushing keel,
Or chained to the flying car.
" Ha ! ha ! ha ! they found me at last ;
They invited me forth at length,
And I rushed to my throne with a thunder blast,
And laughed in my iron strength !
Oh ! then ye saw a wondrous change
On the earth and ocean wide,
Where now my fiery armies range,
Nor wait for wind or tide.
" Hurrah ! hurrah ! the waters o'er,
The mountain's steep decline ;
Time space have yielded to my power
The world ! the world is mine !
The rivers the sun hath earliest blest,
Or those where his beams decline ;
The giant streams of the queenly West,
Or the Orient's floods divine.
" The ocean pales where'er I sweep,
To hear my strength rejoice,
And monsters of the briny deep
Cower, trembling, at my voice.
TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
I carry the wealth and ore of earth,
The thought of the God-like mind ;
The wind lags after my going forth,
The lightning is left behind.
" In the darksome depths of the fathomless mine
My tireless arm doth play,
Where the rocks ne'er saw the sun's decline
Or the dawn of the glorious day ;
I bring earth's glittering jewels up
From the hidden caves below,
And I make the fountain's granite cup
With a crystal gush o'erflow.
" I blow the bellows, I forge the steel
In all the shops of trade ;
I hammer the ore, and turn the wheel
Where my arms of strength are made ;
I manage the furnace, the mill, the mint
I carry, I spin, I weave,
And all my doings I put in print
On every Saturday eve.
" I've no muscles to weary, no breast to decay,
No bones to be " laid on the shelf,"
And soon I intend you may "go and play,"
While I manage the world myself.
But hammer me down with your iron bands,
Be sure of your curb and rein,
For I scorn the strength of your puny hands
As the tempest scorns a chain."
CHAPTER VIII.
SIERRAS TO THE SEA.
IERRA (saw) the name given by Spaniards
to mountains generally and Nevada (snowy)
Sierra Nevada was the name applied by
the old Castilian conquerors of California to the
magnificent snow-capped range running 500 miles
south-east and north-west, along the eastern line of
the State. Its width varies from 60 to 100 miles,
with an average height of 7,000 feet, some of the
peaks rising much higher ; Shasta, on the north,
being 14,444 feet, and Whitney, on the south, near
the Yosemite, 15,088 feet
Though the Sierras are less known, they present
greater variety and far grander scenery than the Rocky
Mountains. Incalculable^mineral wealth especially sil-
ver is buried in their bowels, whilst they are covered
with the most magnificent pine forests in America. A
94 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
story is told of a lumberman from Maine, who, in crossing
the Continent, was observed to grow more and more
silent amid the sands and sage-brush of the desert. At
last, emerging into the pineries of the mountain, the spell
was broken ; deeply affected, he sprang from his seat, ex-
claiming, " Thank God, I smell pitch once more."
The eastern foot-hills of the Sierras begin about Wads-
worth, on the western borders of the desert. A run of
36 miles brings us to Reno, a rise of nearly 400 feet.
South of this station in a direct line 21 miles, by rail 48
is one of the most stirring centres on the Continent
Virginia City. This city in Nevada must not be con-
founded with one of the same name in Montana, to which
the traveller diverges at Corunna, near Great Salt Lake.
The city in Nevada, unlike most mining towns, is not in
a gulch, but is perched among the mountain rocks, 6,200
feet above the sea. It owes its existence to mining in-
terests, chiefly silver. Its foundations are honeycombed
by searchers after "hid treasure." The streets swarm
with speculators ; sometimes the crowd before the offices
of stockbrokers being so great that all traffic comes to a
stand-still. The city rests on the richest silver bed known,
the celebrated Comstock lode, discovered fifteen years ago.
A party prospecting for gold struck a strange ore ; un-
able to determine what it was, they sent specimens to
San Francisco. It proved to be silver-bearing quartz of
surpassing richness. The news of discovery flew like the
wind. An immense rush followed. Other discoveries
SIERRAS TO THE SEA. 95
were made. Cities sprang up as if by magic. The spirit
of speculation, like those ocean waves that suddenly up-
rise and submerge cities, broke through all bounds and
swept over the mountains, enriching a few, but impover-
ishing many. While " the fever was on," one speculator
in stocks made $25,000 per month. The shares of one
Company rose from $2 50 each to $410 ; of another,
from $i to $490, or over five millions for the mine.
Ten years after the discovery, the Comstock showed
signs of giving out ; the yield was falling off from five to
ten millions per annum ; machinery began to be removed
to other and more promising places ; but recent develop-
ments of " drift " have revealed deposits of amazing rich-
ness. Even while I write the old excitement has broken
out afresh with more than former fury. The experienced
money kings of San Francisco, and Irish servant girls, with
their hard-earned savings drawn from the banks for pur-
poses of speculation, are all alike crazed hastening to
be rich. This mine, bought for $3,000, yielded last year
1874 22 million dollars; altogether, since discovery,
175 million dollars; half as much as the famous Veto,
Madre mother vein of Mexico, worked for 300 years,
and reputed the richest in the world, until the discovery
of the Comstock.
Returning to Reno, we continue the ascent of the
Sierras. Following up a canyon first on one side, then
on the other, of the Truckee river roaring through it, we
soon cross the line into California ; a few miles further
96 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
and we are at Truckee, a city of several thousand inhabi-
tants, but most noted to the sight-seer as the point of
divergence to LakeTahoe, twelve miles south, pronounced
" by far the most beautiful lake in the United States."
Leading to it is a carriage road of rare excellence, running
through enchanting scenery. The lake is nearly 6,000
feet above the sea, twenty-two miles long and ten wide ;
through it runs the dividing line between the silver State
of Nevada and the golden State of California. Its
waters, 1,700 feet deep, are clear as crystal, showing ob-
jects on the bottom, distinctly from fifty to one hundred
feet below the surface. They abound with several spe-
cies of fish, especially the silver trout, weighing from
one to twenty-five Ibs. A steamer, specially for pleasure
parties, plies to every part.
Tahoe was once the mouth of a restless volcano, belch-
ing forth fire and death ; now, transformed into a fountain,
fringed with fir and flowers, mirroring slope and snowy
summit, teeming with finny tribes, slaking the thirst of
the mountain deer, its pure and peaceful bosom kissed
by the clouds, it is what it well merits to be, the charming
resort of thousands.
Some years ago, when San Francisco was in its frenzy
of prosperity, a scheme was set on foot to tunnel the
Sierras 100 miles away, and supply the city with water
from Lake Tahoe. It was a splendid scheme, worthy the
days of old Imperial Rome ; and some day, when one
SIERRAS TO THE SEA. 97
arises upon whom has fallen the mantle of the departed
Judah, it, like the railroad, will be un fait accompli.
Returning to Truckee, we diverge once more, this time
two and a half miles north-west, to the smaller but even
lovelier Donner Lake the " gem of the Sierras," and, like
Tahoe, set in the crater of an extinct volcano. The fur-
nace blast of the Cyclops has given place to the shouts of
San Francisco " schoolmarms/' whom the railroad gen-
erously <! passes" from year to year during summer
vacation.
But this lovely lake will be longest remembered, it may
be, not from its pleasure parties and summer songs, but
from the dreadful fate of the Donners, after whom it is
named. A party of emigrants from Illinois undertook to
cross the mountains late in the fall of 1846. Their guide,
an old trapper familiar with the terrible snow storms, hur-
ried them forward. The majority pressed on and passed
safely over ; but Donner himself, driving a lot of cattle,
and kept in company by a party of sixteen, made no
haste. Anticipating no danger, he disregarded all warn-
ings, and quietly encamped on the shores of the lake. In
the night the storm burst upon them with the fury of
loosened demons. The hurricane howled and raged
among the pines, whilst the snow fell fast and thick. At
last the morning broke, but brought no abatement of the
storm. The most of the cattle and horses had broken
from their fastenings and fled. With the few that remain
they may yet escape, but Donner is unable or unwilling
98 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
to move till the storm stops, and his devoted wife refuses
to go and leave him behind. A German resolves to re-
main with them. The rest, placing the four children of
the Donners on horses, start for the other side of the
mountains ; after many days of toil and peril, they suc-
ceed in reaching the valley in safety.
The storm continues for weeks with scarcely any cessa-
tion. For the imprisoned to get out or deliverers to get
in is impossible. No power but a spring sun can ever
open a way of escape. In the early spring, as soon as
there is any hope of succeeding, a party starts to their as-
sistance, After weeks of labor and suffering, they succeed
in reaching the camp ; but what a sight meets their horri-
fied gaze ! Before the fire sits a solitary man tearing the
flesh from a roasted arm. It is the German, and he is
raving mad. At the sound of steps he springs to his feet,
confronting them with a terrified look, and clutching, like
a beast of prey, the remains of his repast. They spring
upon him, wrench away the food, and pinion down his
arms. The remains of the Donners are found and buried.
The German recovered his reason, and declared his in-
nocency ; but whether the Donners died a natural death,
or were murdered by the madman, may remain a mystery
until the " Judge of all the earth shall make known."
From Truckee to the* summit, in a straight line, is only
eight miles, but the rise is nearly 1,200 feet. The engineer
knew right well that this Goliath could never be conquered
by any straight ahead shot ; like a wily warrior, he over-
SIERRAS TO THE SEA. 99
came by strategy. Harnessing to the train three locomo-
tives of well-tried metal, he begins manoeuvring in the
mists of early morning ; now outflanking the foe by run-
ning along the base, now attacking from one side at an
easy angle, and now charging full in the face, escaping
the avalanche by stealing under snow-sheds, gradually
gaining ground, until finally the iron horse, " rejoicing in
his strength" and "mocking at fear," cleaves right
through the solid granite for over 1,600 feet, and comes
forth snorting on the summit of the Sierras. Oh ! it is a
glorious achievement. The spirits that entered into the
struggle now rejoice together. The excitement of the as-
cent, the bracing mountain air, and the magnificent
scenery, can hardly fail to stir up the most stagnant soul.
Above us rise snow-capped peaks hoary-headed senti-
nels of the ages on whose brow
" Summer and winter circling came and went,
Bringing no change of scene. "
Off to the right, its deep gashed sides thickly clad with
evergreens as if to hide the scars of some great and
sore struggle is a vast gorge through which Yuba river,
rejoicing in an opening, is laughing and leaping in numer-
ous cascades and waterfalls. Ahead, and hiding the
Mecca of our pilgrimage, is a broad mountain belt, over
which the eye wanders conjecturing our course. Turn
whichever way we will, there meets the eye some new ob-
ject of beauty or sublimity towering peaks stained and
100 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
weatherworn, lofty ranges forest-clad from foot to crown,
bluffs dark and defiant, moss-covered crags and naked
granite glistening in the morning sun, yawning chasms
cleft by Titan forces, sleeping lakelets, sparkling stream-
lets, foaming rivers and thundering cataracts these are
some of the features belonging to the marvellous scenery
of the Sierras.
To thoroughly enjoy these enchanting heights one
should spend a few days at the Summit House, where he
will find ample and excellent accommodation.
The view from the car windows is much broken by the
great extent of tunnel and snow-sheds. Still, by being on
the alert for every opening, and by rushing out of the car
at every station, the traveller may get more than passing
glimpses.
The snow-sheds, without which it would be quite im-
possible to cross the mountains in winter, will well repay
a careful inspection. An account of their cost and ex-
tent was given in the preceding chapter. When we
remember the immense fall of snow on the Sierras from
20 to 30 feet, sometimes as deep as 60 feet, also the
vast avalanches which, loosed by a spring sun, come
sweeping from the summit across the track, then will be
clearly seen the importance of strongly-built sheds. And
they are of enormous strength. The frame is of heavy
timber, sawed or round, and the roof usually of iron.
Where the line crosses a "divide," or level lands, not
exposed to avalanches, the roof is sharp and steep, like
SIERRAS TO THE SEA. 16 1
our houses in Lower Canada. Where the track runs
along the mountain side, exposed to slides, the roof is
one-sided, sloping sharp up against the rocks. Hence,
the avalanche passes harmlessly over'on its way down the
declivity.
Every possible precaution is taken against fires in the
summer season. Stationed at the summit is a train of
water-cars attached to a locomotive with steam always
up, ready at a moment's notice to fly to any point of
danger.
From the Summit to Sacramento is 104 miles, but the
fall is 7,000 feet. Some idea of the down grade may be
gathered from the fact that, a few days before I crossed, a
runaway freight car struck a snow-shed in an advanced
stage of construction, and knocked down 300 yards of it.
From the Summit to the foot-hills we pass through the
grand timber belt of the Sierras. A particular account of
the forests of California will be found in the " Big Tree "
chapter.
Thirty miles from the Summit we enter the Great
American Canyon. Winding along walls 2,000 feet high ;
clinging to sides rising so steep from the water's edge that
even a footman is unable to pick a passage through ; look-
ing down upon the dark river, foam-flecked and writhing
like a huge serpent hemmed in and tortured, is a scene
seldom surpassed in the wild and thrilling.
Issuing from the canyon, we enter the mining regions.
Here and there running along the track are flumes, tap-
IO2 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
ping rivers near their sources in the region of eternal
snows, and conducting their waters sometimes as far as
fifteen miles to mills and mines. Dutch Flat, You Bet,
Red Dog, Gold Run, are all mining towns in the midst of
" diggins." Every gulch and river-bed has been searched,
pan by pan, and the very mountains washed down by
hydraulic processes. But more of mining hereafter.
One more Sierra scene opens to us at Cape Horn.
The difficulties of " rounding " this mountain have doubt-
less given it the name applied by Magellan to that
southern point of South America, so fraught with terror
to the voyager before the building of the railroad. To
give passengers the opportunity of fairly taking in the
scene, the train considerately stops at an impressive spot
the same where the workmen building the road had to
be held with ropes until they had hewed for themselves a
footing. A few, with real or assumed courage, rush
tumultuously forth, the rest more cautiously all under
the watchful eye of the conductor. The sight is thrilling
beyond description. Above our heads rise rocky crests,
over which even the cunning savage failed to make a
trail. The rugged, overhanging mass unpleasantly sug-
gests the possibility of a slide at any moment. Below
only " a step between us and death " is a precipice from
whose sharp edge weak nerves draw back dizzied and
shuddering. There is an uneasy, ill-defined feeling ;
something might happen you hardly know what. The
track may give way ; the rocks may be loosened from
SIERRAS TO THE SEA. Ib^
above ; men or mountains may fall over. With many a
one the memories of that spot will remain when the
"mountains have fled away."
" All aboard ! " comes hardly too soon ; we move away
with a sense of relief. We can see that our course lies
on the other side of the canyon; but where shall we cross
over? Twining round the mountain, and coyly taking
for a time an opposite direction, we reach a lower and
more advantageous position ; then, turning to the left, we
cross the canyon on trestle work, and double back upon
our track of the other side, obtaining one of the best
views to be had of the Cape we have rounded a
scene pronounced the " grandest on the whole line of the
Trans-Continental Railroad."
Rushing, thundering down the mountains, thrilled at
every turn by fresh beauties, we soon reach the lowlier
but fertile foot-hills. Hamlets and homesteads nestle in
the most charming spots. On the Atlantic board it is
the season of the " sere and yellow leaf ; " here trees are
evergreens, and flowers bloom the year round. Growing
as a common shrub at the side of an humble cabin are
oleanders of Oriental splendor. Orchards and vineyards
appear. Fruit-sellers swarm at the stations. Passing
Rocklin, its granite quarries supplying the cities with
their best building material, we leave the foot-hills be-
hind, and enter the beautiful Sacramento valley, fast
filling up with a settled and prosperous people.
The stillness of the desert has given way to the hum of
i$4 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
the hives of industry. Everybody is on the alert and
wears a wide-awake look. Evidences of approach to
some great centre are rapidly increasing. In the dis-
tance, on the left, and arresting every eye, is a splendid
structure of white marble, its graceful dome resting
against the soft sunny sky : it can belong to no mean
city, and it does not. We have reached the capital of
California, Sacramento, situated at the head of tide water
on the Sacramento river, 120 miles from its mouth. As
usual here, a multitude await our arrival. Hundreds of
eager eyes interview the strangers from the other side
of the Continent. If what we see is a fair specimen of
the spirit of the city, then we no longer wonder that the
insignificant hamlet of a few years ago has grown to its
present greatness in spite of repeated laying waste by
flames and freshets, or that here was born and nur-
tured the great Central Pacific Railroad.
Men cannot escape liability to fire, build where they will;
but they may build above the flood. Why then was there
founded on the banks of the Sacramento river a city sub-
ject to destructive inundations ? When the site was chosen,
in 1849, the overflowing of the river was a thing unknown
the banks rose far above high-water mark. But the
multitude of miners dug down the mountains, washing
their debris into the American, Feather, Bear, Yuba and
other rivers feeding the Sacramento, until its bed was
raised from ten to twenty feet above the ordinary level.
The channel of the river, already filled by heavy winter
SIERRAS TO THE SEA. 105
rains, could not contain the vast masses of melted snow
which a spring sun sent pouring down the mountains. Con-
sequently, the swollen waters, bursting over the banks,
swept across the valley, doing a vast amount of damage ;
cattle perished ; vineyards were laid waste ; houses floated
away \ while ships went sailing down the streets of Sacra-
mento. This was in 1852. When the flood was over, the
citizens, nothing daunted, went to work and surrounded
the city with levees. A decade passed in peace. But in
1861-62 came another inundation, laughing at the levees
and deluging the city as before. When the waters sub-
sided, the citizens set to work raising the foundations of
the houses as well as repairing and strengthening the
levees. To-day the city stands ten feet higher than when
founded, presenting, thus far, an effectual barrier to the
fiercest flood. Built at first of wood, the city has more
than once been destroyed by fire ; but, phoenix-like, each
time there has sprung from its ashes more beautiful
structures, at once the pride and praise of a people un-
conquerable by fire or flood.
Not the least to the credit of the capital and Railroad
Company is the Central Pacific Railroad Hospital, costing
$60,000, and supported by a weekly contribution of fifty
cents each from every one connected with the road, from
the chief officer down. According to the State Reports, it
is conducted on the most approved principles, is in keep-
ing with the general management of the railroad, and
H
106 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
conduces greatly to the comfort of the employees and
their continuance in the Company's service.
Sacramento will well repay a more protracted stay, but,
impatient to look upon the Pacific, we hasten on. Novel
sights and peculiar modes of doing things meet the eye all
along the rapidly rolling panorama. If knight errantry
were now the fashion, California would be a paradise to
Quixotic crusaders ; it is a land of wind mills. You see
them everywhere in the city and in the country. Stock-
ton, fifty miles west of Sacramento, is called the " Wind-
mill City," and in San Francisco itself you find them in
large numbers. The mill usually stands over the com-
mon or artesian well, and pumps the water through pipes
to all parts of the premises, and sometimes beyond into
the gardens and fields. Frequently the water is forced
into tanks at the top of the houses, whence it is easily
distributed to every room. Here and there are hydrants
supplying sprinklers, so placed as to shower the lawns and
shrubbery.
The rainless season, extending from May to November,
makes artificial methods of supplying water a sine qua non.
The absence of frost renders the laying of pipes anywhere
perfectly safe; and the winds coming from the ocean
through the Golden Gate, and prevailing a part of the day
in every valley and gorge, furnish cheap and effective
pumping power. Neatly built and prettily painted, some-
times at a stand-still and sometimes a huge wheel whirl-
ing in the air like a giant turning somersaults, they are, to
SIERRAS TO THE SEA. . 107
strangers, a striking sight, enlivening the landscape as well
as contributing to the comfort and wealth of the country.
Another institution peculiar to California is the " Prai-
rie Schooner," a leviathan waggon drawn by mules, from
six to sixteen being attached to each waggon. Before
railroad days an immense amount of freight was trans-
ported by this means to and from the mines. I often met
them carrying enormous loads of merchandise to the
mountains, or returning laden with wood -the plains pro-
ducing few trees except the growth of the settlers' plant-
ings. But steam is fast hastening the mule's millennium.
Continuing our way, crossing the valley of San Joaquin
(San Waw-keen), with its rich bottom lands extending
north and south as far as the eye can reach, we head
directly for the Contra Costa Mountains, looming up and
running right and left, as if to bar our further progress to
the Pacific. But this obstruction is only child's play after
what we have passed a spider's web compared to the
granite-ribbed Sierras. This beautiful range of mountains,
extending up and down the coast for hundreds of miles,
its soft and purple summits carved by elemental action
into the loveliest outlines, was never reared to check the
course of the Trans-Continental Railroad, but to shelter
those charming valleys from the hostile influence of old
Ocean.
Reinforced for the effort by a second locomotive, we
begin climbing their sides and threading our way among
canyons, until, reaching a down grade, we plunge into the
108 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
bowels of the mountains, black as midnight, and emerge
at Altamonte, on the western side. The sun has set, but
there is light enough left to show that we are sweeping
down one of the loveliest little valleys I ever beheld. On
each side, close by, are the mountains, sloping gracefully
upward and dotted over with evergreen oaks, whilst nest-
ling between gems befitting such beautiful settings are
cozy homes, in the midst of orchards, gardens and vine-
yards.
It is now dark and raining ; we can see nothing ; but
if there be anything in a name, then the places we passed
on the western slopes of the Contra Costa range, some of
them embracing many " out of town " residences of the
wealthy, must indeed be very beautiful. Pleasanton,
Decoto, Lorenzo, San Leandro, Melrose, are the soft
and musical names following close on each other. An
express man engaging to deliver luggage, wherever or-
dered, has already passed through the cars, taking our
checks and giving guarantees in return.
The smell of salt water is in the air. Ten thousand
lights from out the thick darkness are gleaming on
land and water. We have reached Oakland Point, on
the eastern shore of the Bay of San Francisco. Sup-
ported by splendid piers, we continue our way across the
Bay two and a half miles, to the terminus of the great
Trans-Continental Railroad, where we connect with
steamer for San Francisco three miles farther. The ferry-
boat is thronged almost as much as those plying between
SIERRAS TO THE SEA. 1 09
New York and Brooklyn. Runners and hackmen swarm
thick with honey and sting. Be on your guard against
them j though not as noisy as those of Chicago twenty
years ago, yet they are every whit as unscrupulous. If
not thoughtless or purse-proud, you have beforehand
posted yourself as to hotels, modes of conveyance and
fares. Now, if you do not want to be bored or bitten by
these vampires, ask them no questions, and assume an
air of ease, even of indifference, as if quite at home.
Only strangers are leeched. Our goal is reached. The
Continent is crossed. We are standing on the shores of
the Pacific.
*
CHAPTER IX.
SAN FRANCISCO.
AN FRANCISCO is one of the marvels of
America. In 1849 it consisted of a few
wooden buildings and one of brick ; all
told, there were not five hundred whites within
as many miles. There were no wharfs, no piers,
no commerce worth the name. But in that year
arrived the " forty miners/' as the pioneers proudly
call themselves. These were soon followed by a
vast multitude from every land, drawn by the dis-
covery of gold. Houses sprang up like mushrooms
fast but fragile.
From 1849 to 1852 the city was laid in ashes
six different times, involving a loss of twenty-six million
dollars. But, as in Sacramento so here, better buildings
took the place of those burnt.
Earthquakes opened the ground, cracked walls, shook
SAN FRANCISCO. Ill
down houses, killed some of the people and drove others
away, destroying in 1868 five millions of dollars ; but the
runaways returned, rebuilt the houses and more than re-
trieved their losses.
Financial panics, the result of overwrought specula-
tions, have in a day worse than beggared multitudes of the
wealthiest. No longer ago than the loth of May, 1872,
there came a sudden crisis, crushing house after house,
supposed to be, and which were, among the very strongest.
Scarcely any investment escaped ; the hard-earned savings
of the daily laborer, and the princely fortune of the specu-
lator were swept away together by the one common flood.
Up to noon on that " Black Friday," stocks depreciated
47 million dollars. And yet no one sits down to cry.
There is no time for it. Before the waters have fairly
assuaged or the fires cooled, they begin laying the founda-
tions afresh "organizing victory out of defeat."
It, beyond all other cities in the New World, abounds
in the " ups and downs " of life. While I was there, an
educated Russian of aristocratic connections at home, un-
able to obtain employment and ashamed to beg, rather
than steal or starve drowned himself.
A few years ago, a cabin boy on the Mississippi, born
to better things as he believed, followed his star westward.
To-day he is one of the heaviest stock speculators and
real estate owners in the city ; is building a palatial resi-
dence ; owns an extensive ranche stocked with horses
and cattle of the rarest breed ; keeps there, as he pur-
112 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
poses to do in his city palace when completed, open
house ; and is the popular President of the Gold Bank of
California. Proud of his country, as all Californians are,
he takes special delight in entertaining Easterners and
Europeans, showing them on his own estate the wonder-
ful resources of the land. He built a splendid road from
the city to his country residence ; and every afternoon at
the close of banking hours drives out to it a coach and
four, carrying from ten to thirty guests, followed some-
times by additional carriages containing others. By hav-
ing in readiness relays of horses, he makes the distance in
railroad time.
The Inspector of Banks, the Honorable N. P. Lang-
ford to whom I fortunately had letters of introduction
and others who had shared his hospitality, gave me the
most glowing accounts of its costly magnificence. This
princely entertainment has given rise to frequent rumours
that the bank of which he is president voted him, as a
mere financial speculation, $150,000 annually for pur-
poses of hospitality. Though the charge remains un-
proven, one thing is generally conceded the strongest
Bank in the West owes not a little of its increase to the
scatterings of its chief.
With the public generally he bears the name of high-
toned integrity in business relationships. One day there
came into the bank a man whom the President knew to
be guilty of some gross outrage against business usages ;
coming from behind the counter he forced the offender
SAN FRANCISCO. 113
upon a stool ; then stepping to the door and calling in
the passers-by he exposed his misdeeds, denounced him
as utterly unprincipled, and capped the climax by kick-
ing him into the street. He went forth as if bearing the
brand of Cain, shunned by everyone. ' The punishment
was sore, as sentence was summary and speedily executed.
His business was ruined. No one who cared for his
credit would have dealings with a man whom the Gold
Bank of California had kicked out of its doors.
How startling and melancholy! Since writing the
above, and on the eve of sending it to press, the Conti-
nent is thrilled with the message The Bank of California
has failed Ralston, the President, has been guilty of
the wildest speculation in its stocks his defalcation
amounts to millions he is dead drowned whilst bathing
accident or suicide.
A few weeks ago a foremost man in public enterprise,
considered a model of integrity and success, courted and
flattered on every hand ; to-day bankrupt in principle and
property, guilty of the grossest abuse of millions of money
entrusted to his care dead whilst over his " cast-out "
name hangs a dread cloud did he or did he not die a self-
murderer ?
San Francisco is situated on the east side of the north
end of a peninsula seven miles wide, .running up between
the bay and ocean. On the highest elevation of the
land's end called Point Lobos, is a telegraph station, from
which is announced the arrival of ocean steamers as soon
114 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
as they appear in sight. Across the channel three and a
half miles to the north is Point Bonita, on which rises a
lighthouse of invaluable service on this broken coast.
The extremes of the two peninsulas, directly opposite
each other, are called Lime Point and Fort Point. Be-
tween these is the entrance to the harbor, the famous
Golden Gate which, according to Indian tradition, is an
opening in the Coast Range, occasioned by an earthquake
which convulsed the Continent centuries ago. The name
" Golden Gate" was not given because of the precious
metal, as it bore the name prior to the discovery of gold ;
but because of the fertility of the land to which the open-
ing led. The channel is a mile wide, thirty feet deep,
with a flow and ebb about six knots an hour, and is
usually fretful and stormy. Neptune sits in the gap ex-
acting tribute from many a one whom he lets go free out
upon the Pacific. Stretching across its mouth is a sand
bar, not always safe in low water to vessels of heavy
draught.
The city is built on a series of sand-hills ; several of
them, rising nearly 400 feet, overlook the magnificent
harbor capable of accommodating the combined shipping
of the world. The ascent of the hills is sometimes tire-
some, but the climber is amply compensated by variety of
location, the most commanding views, and what is of far
greater worth in a crowded city, an unlimited supply of
the purest air. Street cars run through the chief thorough-
fares, and sometimes up the steepest hills. On one of
SAN FRANCISCO. 115
these hills the car connected with underground chains and
pulleys is drawn up by a stationary steam engine at the
top. It worked smoothly and seemingly to the satisfac-
tion of everybody, especially the horses.
The streets are usually paved or planked ; still a great
annoyance is the fine red sand abounding everywhere'
and always on the move when the wind is abroad, and it
is usually able to be up and stirring in San Francisco.
Boreas, a late riser and late in retiring, begins to blow
through the Golden Gate towards noon, increasing in
vigor till long into night. My first impressions of the
climate of the city were anything but pleasant the day
being dark, damp and chilly. On my second visit it was
even worse foggy, drizzly, dismal too warm for a fire and
too cold to be without one. Within twenty-four hours of
my arrival, I retreated a second'time in disgust to the in-
terior ; but a bright, warm sun shining in a sky of marvel-
lous beauty greeted me on my third visit, and continued
with slight variations to the end of my stay. I was
quickly acclimated, and found the atmosphere not simply
bearable, but extremely bracing. It may be too strong
and cutting for throat and lung affections, but it acts like
a charm on shattered nerves and lazy livers.
Men restless and hastening to be rich, living a lottery
life, drawing many blanks and few prizes, usually present
a worn and wasted appearance; but here they are
sprightly at fifty, full and fresh. The overflowing humor,
the sparkling wit, the English faces, the well-preserved ap-
Il6 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
pearance generally, is doubtless owing in part to the in-
fusion of foreign blood, and also to the highly stimulating
climate.
I suppose there are few places in the world where, with-
in an equal area, there is such a variety of climate as in
California. On the western slopes of the coast range there
are marked variations ; on the eastern, in the valleys, the
air is soft and balmy ; on the Sierras it is clear and strong,
but still different from the sea air of the coast ; whilst be-
tween northern and southern California there are also
marked variations. It is asserted that there is scarcely an
ailment or temperament but can be suited somewhere in
the State.
The climate in San Francisco is very equable, seldom
varying more than ten degrees the year round. Weather
statistics from 185010 1872 show that on the coldest day the
thermometer fell to 25, and on the warmest it rose to 98 p ;
the average of winter is 50 ; of summer, 57, showing a
mean difference of only 7 degrees Fahrenheit between sum-
mer and winter. Snow seldom falls, and ice has to be
brought from a distance. The winter climate of the
Pacific Coast is as warm as that of the Atlantic 500 miles
farther south. Why this difference ? It is supposed to be
caused by warm currents from the Indian Ocean striking
the coast of California and flowing northward even as the
atmosphere of the Atlantic coast is affected by the course
of the Gulf Stream.
The most delicate flowers grow exposed in the gardens
SAN FRANCISCO. 117
all the year round. There is seldom a day in summer
when it is too warm at mid-day ; and yet there are few
days when you do not feel the need of fire or wraps during
some portion of the day. " The oldest inhabitant cannot
remember a night when blankets were not necessary for a
comfortable sleep."
The sea, holding in contempt Canute and his courtiers,
usually encroaches on the land ; but San Francisco, like
Chicago, has reversed the rule. Large portions of its busi-
ness sections have been built where once ships of heavy
tonnage used to ride at anchor. Years ago, when few
men ever so much as dreamed of the city passing beyond
a certain swampy spot bordering on the bay, J. Lick,
Esq., seeing the golden possibilities buried in the bog,
bought the waste for a small sum, and now lives to see
it, with adjoining waters, closely covered by warehouses,
and himself one of the wealthiest citizens.
The buildings erected since the great fires are chiefly
of brick, stone and iron ; still, as if forgetful of their fiery
lessons, I found not a few of the finest structures, and of
recent erection too, built of wood. To save from over-
throw by earthquakes, they build low ; whilst this secures
safety, it makes against superior style, giving the city
were it not for those hills a squat appearance. Many of
the buildings are very fine, the United States Mint, just
completed, taking the lead, having cost one and a quarter
million of dollars. The hotels come next. There are
several first class, the Grand, for style, being at the head.
Il8 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Directly opposite, in course of erection and to be run in
connection with the Grand, is a hotel claiming to be, on
completion, the finest in the world. The " Friscans," bound
to lead, spare no expense in carrying out their ambitious
schemes. Whatever sins may lie at their door, penurious-
ness is certainly not in the catalogue ; if they are wrecked
it will rather be on the golden sands of extravagance. On
their persons, as on their property, there is often the most
lavish expenditure. The desire for precious stones has
grown into a mania, and as for
" Gold ! gold ! gold ! gold !
Bright and yellow, hard and cold,
Molten, graven, hammered and rolled,"
it is everywhere great cable chains, massive rings (and
many of them exquisitely wrought), heavy-headed canes,
and trinkets ad infinitum.
As to refinement of taste in styles of dress there will
ever be a diversity of opinion ; but as to richness of ma-
terial, there is no room to question. Montgomery and
Kearney Streets, both rivals of Broadway, present in dress
and beauty as dazzling a sight as any sister city of the
older East.
The schools are their pride and boast. There are about
a dozen daily papers, with a corresponding number of
weeklies and monthlies. But the public libraries the
number and character of the books, the excellence of the
management and the multitudes who resort to them im-
pressed me as one of the finest features of the city. I
SAN FRANCISCO. lig
spent some time in the " Mechanics' " and the " Mer-
chants'." The rooms were spacious and elegantly furnished.
Intelligent, attentive librarians, and other officials, were
always at hand. Light and airy, at night brilliantly lit up
by gas, quiet and convenient thoroughly comfortable
it is no wonder that they are attractive places, keeping
many a one, it may be, from haunts of sin. I remembered
with shame the shabby apartments and ill-stocked shelves
of some of our Dominion Libraries. San Francisco is a
city of Societies some seeking to perpetuate their national
peculiarities ; others, of a broader view, seeking to blend
into one brotherhood the motley mass ; still others band-
ing together against some foe or for some common good.
There are Masons, Oddfellows, B'nai B'rith, American
Protestant Associations, American Mechanics, Seven Wise
Men, Knights of Pythias, Independent Red Men, Im-
proved Red Men, Ancient Order of Knights, and doubt-
less others of whose names I was not informed.
Not a little attention is being paid to the Fine Arts.
The beautiful skies and unsurpassed scenery of the
Sierras and of the Pacific coast, with the charming val-
leys lying between them, have given birth to painters
who have already attained to considerable celebrity.
Bierstadt and others are artists known to fame beyond
their own land.
What of morality ? How does the city compare with
former years when " every man did that which was right
in his own eyes ? " In the early days of the gold dis-
120 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
covery it was a common saying among those starting
westward, " God doesn't hold a man responsible after he
crosses the Missouri.'' Morals are much mended since
then. A law has been lately passed in Healdsburg, in the
northern part of the State, requiring the arrest of all boys
under the age of sixteen years who are found on the streets
at night, after nine o'clock in summer and eight o'clock
in winter ; it is said to work admirably. Yet there are
multitudes who act on the old maxim, "God will not
require it."
There are in the city twenty-eight Protestant, ten Roman
Catholic, two Jewish and six Buddhist places of worship ;
and yet I heard it stated before a crowded house, at the an-
niversary of the Young Men's Christian Association, that
only 40,000 out of a population of 200,000 ever put foot
inside of a Christian church. On Sabbath mornings
the congregations are generally good ; in the evening it is
difficult to sustain a service, the attendance being so small.
The love of display, a spirit of speculation, a greed of
gold, are the " contrary winds " that cause the disciples
of the Lord to " toil in rowing." Sabbath evening is high-
harvest season with the theatres, operas and billiard
saloons. I found the billiard rooms connected with the
hotels thronged at this hour. Billiard tables are an insti-
tution of the land, and they are used not simply for
recreation but for gambling. They are to be found, large
and costly, even in the remote Yosemite, having been
carried over the mountains, on the backs of mules, piece-
meal.
SAN FRANCISCO. 121
Law and order prevail generally ; still, stabbing and
shooting on private account are not altogether of the
past. In the vestibule of the hotel where I spent one
night then changed quarters a lady shot a prominent
physician : cause, " unrequited affection," said the papers.
On the return voyage I made the acquaintance of
certain New Yorkers who were returning after several
years' residence in San Francisco. They gave a dismal
account of its social and religious life. One lady, origin-
ally from Montreal, accompanied by two clever daughters
in their teens, was fleeing, she assured me, from the moral
contagion, seeking the purer atmosphere of the east in
which to educate her family.
The demoralizing custom of breaking up home and
living in hotels, which obtains so largely in the eastern
States, is carried even further here. The best hotels are,
to a large extent, rilled by " Friscan " families. Others,
usually not so well to do, take rooms in lodging-houses
and go to restaurants for meals ; this city, beyond all other
American ones, abounding in these two classes of houses.
The latter plan is decidedly the cheapest mode of living,
especially for visitors ; but for residents it is far from help-
ful to home life. At my first visit I went to a hotel, pay-
ing $3 per day, the uniform rate at all the first-class
houses ; but on my last visit I took rooms a parlor and
bedroom, both well furnished, including gas in a central
part of the city, paying only $i per day. One can get, on
every hand an excellent meal for 2 5 cents quite a saving
I
122 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
even on the low rates of the hotels, besides giving
increased comfort and better opportunities for sight-seeing.
You start out in the morning, and take your meals wher-
ever the hour or hunger finds you.
Are these details infra dig. ? My apology is, if you
ever visit San Francisco, unless of plethoric purse, you
may find it profitable to your pocket to remember what is
written.
Greenbacks receive little honor in this land of gold.
When first issued, California refused to receive them as
currency, standing stoutly by the gold basis. The Gold
Bank of California, with a capital of five million dollars,
is the proud symbol of their polity and independence.
The Bank has issued gold notes which, among them-
selves, are equal in value to the gold itself ; they are a
great convenience within the State, but strangers, on
departing, will do well to leave them behind ; they will be
held outside of California as greenbacks are inside
at a discount. I narrowly escaped an unpleasant alterca-
tion regarding them on settling a hotel bill. Handing
the clerk a double eagle, he tendered change in " notes,"
which I refused. He blusteringly called on the crowd to
testify to their worth "all the world over," which they
promptly did. Californians stand up for their country
and institutions with a fiery zeal that is not always tem-
pered with knowledge. Of course, when they consider
only their own gain, they strive to get these notes out of
the country, most pleased to think they shall see them no
SAN FRANCISCO. 123
more. Having, however, carefully informed myself be-
forehand as to the facts, I demanded the gold and
got it.
There is neither " cent " nor " shin- plaster " in the State
the five cent silver piece being the smallest, and very
few of them. A " bit" is twelve and a half cents, but as
there are very few of these, a " short bit," ten cents, is the
smallest money in plentiful circulation. Fifteen cents are a
" long bit." If' the purchase is but a pennyworth, you must
pay five or ten cents for it ; if it amounts to eleven cents
you are expected to pay the " long bit," fifteen cents ; if
only ten cents are offered, it is counted " short/' and your-
self " small." Some people praise the " horn of plenty "
only when the big end is towards themselves.
San Francisco, like Liverpool, rests its hopes of great-
ness chiefly on its commercial connections. To say noth-
ing of the wealth to which she is the outlet, that to which
she is the inlet, from Alaska to Patagonia, from the Islands
of the Pacific, from Asiatic and even European shores, is
enormous. When the country was ceded to the United
States in 1848, scarcely one ship a year passed through the
Golden Gate. Through all the sleeping years of Spanish
rule, and Mexican too, the waters of that splendid harbor
were unploughed. Now they are never suffered to settle.
Besides the hundreds of sailing craft of every description,
plying to all parts, there are dozens of first-class steamers
connecting regularly with the principal points on the coasts
of North and South America, with the Sandwich Islands,
124 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
New Zealand, Australia, China and Japan. In passing
through the Golden Gate I counted thirty-three vessels,
all in sight at the same time, either entering or leaving the
harbor's mouth.
The mild and equable climate ; the agricultural resources
of the State ; the cosmopolitan character of the citizens,
drawing to her the sympathies of all nations ; the emi-
nently American spirit, far-seeing and active ; above all,
the commanding commercial position the trans-conti-
nental railroad and ocean connections giving her, Janus-
like, to look both ways combine to make San Francisco
one of the world's great cities.
" Serene, indifferent to Hate,
Thou sittest at the Western Gate ;
Upon the heights so lately won
Still slant the banners of the sun.
Thou seest the white seas strike their tents,
O warden of two Continents ;
And, scornful of the peace that flies
Thy angry waves and sullen skies,
Thou d rawest all things small and great
To thee beside the Western Gate."
CHAPTER X.
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER.
f
AYARD TAYLOR, the great traveller,
says that when a boy he had a strong de-
sire to see the world. He could not travel,
but he could climb. So, full of Yankee ingenuity
and daring, he managed to get on the top of the
house, seated himself astride the ridge of the roof,
and looked and looked, wondering how big the
world was !
I find that boys, and girls too, are mostly alike
the world over, in wanting to climb on the tops of
the houses, and over their fathers' fences into their
neighbors' fields ; they want to see farther than the
old farm and the old school-house. To all such I give
a hearty invitation to come with me across the Continent
to San Francisco. I promise you plenty of wonders, and
126 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
perfect safety from savages, smash-ups, shipwrecks and sea-
sickness.
How are we to get there ? I remember reading long
years ago about a Persian carpet that had the wonderful
power of carrying those who sat upon it wherever they
wished in the twinkling of an eye. When dragging along
a muddy road, or waiting up all hours of the night for
trains behind time ; when stuck in a snow drift, with plenty
of frost and little food ; or worse, when far from land,
driven with the wind and tossed, sick oh ! so sea-sick,
how often I have thought of this pretty story and wished
it were true, and that I had the carpet.
That was an idle tale told to amuse the evening hours
of an eastern king in olden times ; but this is a truth God
has put within us a power more wonderful still, something
that outflies the winged winds and the darting lightnings ;
something that is never seen, never heard, and never
dies the power of thought. Come with me in thought,
and I will show you some of the sights in the greatest city
on the Pacific coast, between Alaska on the north and
Patagonia on the south.
First, we will pay a visit to Woodward's Gardens, in
the western outskirts of the city. Mr. Woodward, after
whom the Gardens are named, had a refined taste and a
large fortune with which to gratify it. He resolved to
build himself a beautiful home, and furnish it with paint-
ings, sculpture, flowers, plants, trees, birds, beasts, fishes ;
in fine, with everything curious or beautiful that he could
THE CHILDREN S CHAPTER. 127
gather in any part of the world. In 1860 five acres of
land were enclosed and laid out, artificial lakes formed,
fountains opened, grottoes dug out, and a great deal more
done, making it a most charming spot. The people,
proud of the place and longing to enjoy its delights, plead
with the owner to open it to the public. No, he never
would. But the Great American War opened the gates
that blood-gorged lion which devoured so many, not only
slew slavery, but, in God's wonderful providence, yields
many a sweet beside. The groans of bleeding soldiers,
and the cries of the orphan and widow, were the magic
" sesame" at whose utterance the door to the hidden trea-
sure flew wide open. Money must be had. The Sani-
tary Fund that noble scheme for helping both body and
soul of the sick and wounded was low and the needy
were increased. To help this fund the Gardens were
opened, all the entrance fees going into its coffers. The
income was princely. Multitudes visited the place some
for their own pleasure, others more to help the suffering.
The war ended, but the Gardens were never closed. By
the payment of twenty-five cents children I think half-
price one can spend all day in them, and get ten times
the worth of his money.
Now we'll start ; but you had better bring along the
lunch basket, for I intend to keep you in the Gardens
until you are pretty hungry. A half-hour's ride in the
street cars brings us right to the gates. Don't be afraid ;
those bears sitting on their haunches by the gates are like
128 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
a great many others that frighten big as well as little folks
only bugbears, made of wood. Is it not a pretty
place ? Green grass, beautiful flowers, carefully-trimmed
shrubbery, shady trees, lovely little lakes, playing foun-
tains sending up a stream that spreads and gracefully
curves like a snowy dome falling in silvery showers on
flowers and grassy lawns, rockeries covered with flowering
vines and mossy tufts, little hills crowned with some new
beauty, quiet dells cool and shady, here and there in cozy
corners rustic seats inviting the weary, with many a well-
swept walk winding
"In and out and round about."
These are some of the charms that meet the eye on en-
tering. Directly before us is the Museum ; we enter
through the jaws of a whale ! They stand on end-arching
over the entrance from fifteen to twenty feet high. Just
inside the entrance is the disagreeable dopr-keeper a
huge alligator ! If he were alive, either he or I would not
be there ; but as his skin is stuffed with straw, we shall
not take to our heels.
I saw hundreds of these ugly creatures in Florida ; the
swamps and rivers swarm with them. They greatly enjoy
a dinner of dog when they can get it. At Palatka, on
the St. John's river, an old dog used to go several times
a day down to the water's edge, and walk to the farthest
end of a little bridge that ran out over the river for some
distance ; then, seating himself, as the manner of dogs is,
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. 129
he would bark up a lot of alligators, big and little ; when
their ugly noses were sticking up all about him, sniffing
the savory meal, he would quietly rise and trot back to
the house. Next, in the Museum, is a case of snakes,
some of them big enough to crush a buifalo ; but having
a great dislike to all serpents, dead or alive, we hasten
away, gratefully remembering the precious promise given
in the garden of old " The seed of the woman shall
bruise the serpent's head."
What a big bear and white too, white as snow from
nose to tail ! He is nine feet long, with legs as big as the
body of a small boy; would be an "ugly customer" at
close quarters one hug would squeeze all the breath out
of your body. If the two bears that came forth out of the
wood and tare forty and two children who mocked God's
prophet, had claws and teeth anything like this monster, I
can easily believe what the Bible says about them. This
one was shot swimming, twenty-five miles from shore,
towards the St. Lawrence Island, in the Northern Sea.
What odd-looking animals are these armadilloes from
South America ! They are clad in coat of mail ; from nose
to tail they are covered with scales about the size of a cent,
closely overlapping each other. This is their defence.
God, who is good to all, has given even the meanest of
His creatures some power of self-protection : the bee has
its sting, the bird beak and talon, the turtle a shell, the
pole-cat its scent-bag, the cuttle-fish its ink-pot from
which it blackens the waters before its pursuers.
l^O TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
What strange sheep, having five horns two crooking
back behind the ears, two crooking forward before the
ears, and one, coming out of the centre of the forehead,
makes a graceful curve and grows into the nose !
There are hundreds of stuffed birds, but one of the
strangest and most beautiful is the flamingo, from Africa.
It is made with long legs, like a crane's, for wading in the
water ; web-footed like a duck, to keep it from sinking in
the soft mud, and with a big pouchy bill on a long swan-like
neck, that it may dive deep after food ; its color is pure
white, except the wings, which are delicately tinged with
pink.
We have not seen the half, but we must hasten away.
From a large round building on a rising ground there come
shouts of laughter.
" What is going on inside, Sir ? " I asked of a man
working near.
"Skating."
" What ! is this a skating rink ? "
" Yes."
" May we go in ? "
" O ! yes ; anybody can go in."
So in we go, full of wonder no snow, no ice, even in
winter, and yet skating in summer ! Yes ; with wooden
skates on wooden floors. Instead of the usual steel run-
ners, under the foot are four small wooden wheels. The
floor, worn slippery as ice, often brings down both
"house" and beginner. Some nice young men, with
THE CHILDREN S CHAPTER. 131
exquisite kids, and tight trousers come down with very
heavy falls and rise with very red faces. This kind of
skating has two great advantages the skater is never in
danger of freezing or drowning.
Under the same roof with the rink is a restaurant,
where, if you have not brought the lunch-basket along,
refreshments may be had at very reasonable rates. Under
the same wide-spreading roof is a large hall in which con-
certs and other performances are held, often on Sabbath
evenings. This is one of the wicked things in Wood-
ward's Gardens. In fact, there are few gardens into which
the devil does not get.
Now we will visit the aviary ; here are real live birds,
some silent, some singing, and a few screeching, chatter-
ing or croaking. You will not soon forget these macaws,
a species of parrot from South America, pretty, but mis-
chievous as monkeys ; with their horny, hooked bills, they
soon pick a hole through their wooden cage, unless it is
lined with zinc. The prettiest of all the parrots, to my
mind, is the sulphur-crested from Australia ; it is snow-
white all except a sulphur-colored tuft springing out of
the back part of the head, the tip curving gracefully to-
wards the bill. This tuft is fan-shaped, opening and
shutting as the parrot pleases. The silver and golden
pheasants are also exceedingly pretty. The mandarin
duck from China, a small, quiet creature, is so gorgeously
colored, with the lines so distinctly drawn, that it looks
132 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
more like a brilliantly painted piece of carved wood than
a living bird.
Ah ! here is the Happy Family. They have a comfort-
able home in a lofty well-lit cage, its floor the soft sand,
with a fountain playing in the centre. There are " many
birds of many kinds," Guinea pigs, turtles, a small alliga-
tor and a snake. The turtles are burrowing in the sand
or straddling awkwardly over it, as if on stilts. The alli-
gator and birds are on the best of terms, a dove standing
nearly all its time perched on the back of its scaly friend.
He is stretched sprawling on the sand pretending to be
asleep, but is only making believe ; I can see him slyly
peeping from a narrow opening between his eyelids at his
playful visitor's pecking at his skin. A wee Guinea pig,
his tail towards the alligator's nose, is hiding his head be-
tween two big brothers, and shivering as if he feared being
eaten. The snake is lying by the fountain, a part of his
body in the water and part on the sand ; now and then
he raises his head and runs out a forked tongue. Perhaps
it is his way of showing that he, too, is happy.
Well, it is a fine sight, and foreshadows the good time
coming when " the wolf also shall dwell with the lamb, and
the leopard shall lie down with the kid ; and the calf and
the young lion and the fatling together, and a little child
shall lead them. And the cow and the bear shall feed ;
their young ones shall lie down together ; and the lion
shall eat straw like the ox. And the sucking child shall
play on the hole of the asp, and the weaned child shall
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. 133
put its hand on the cocatrice's den. They shall not hurt
nor destroy in all my holy mountain ; for the earth shall
be full of the knowledge of the Lord as the waters cover
the sea."
Passing on, we soon enter a grotto, partly built up, and
partly dug out of the hill-side. It is cool and shady, well
supplied with little round tables and seats, all made
of rustic-work strongly fastened together. This is a
delightful spot in which to rest awhile and take our lunch.
Close by, and elsewhere throughout the grounds, are drink-
ing fountains, to which a metal cup is attached by a small
chain. Continuing our way we enter a second grotto,
smaller and darker than the first. At the far end, shut in
by a wire screen, are several owls of different species, all
looking wondrous wise out of their great big round eyes.
The most singular is that one with a couple of feathery
tufts springing straight up out of the head, and giving him
quite a dignified as well as wise look ; he is called the
horned owl. The wee one of all, like the runt pig of a
litter, keeps up a constant squeaking, as if his life depend-
ed on his making a noise.
See yonder crowd gathered about that little pond en-
closed by a high fence ; they are looking at the sea lions.
One old fellow, with a half human look, is furious, plung-
ing about, and roaring like a bull. See ! here he comes
straight towards the crowd, eyes bloodshot and glaring ;
rising suddenly out of the water he springs against the
fence, scattering the crowd pell-mell and screaming in all
134 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
directions. The old lion has been so teased by visitors
that he has grown bold and savage ; those great teeth
would crunch a man's bones as if they were pipe stems.
There is a law now against vexing them.
Near by this pond, and under ground, a strong stone
arch supporting the earth overhead, is the Aquarium.
Here, indeed, is a beautiful sight. On each side of the
walk, breast-high, are water tanks containing a great many
kinds of fish common to both salt and fresh water bass,
flounders, turbot, cat-fish, speckled trout, salmon, etc. The
side of the bank next to us is one piece of heavy plate
glass, through which we can see every movement of the
fish ; whilst through an opening directly over the water
just enough light is let in to make the fish appear as they
would were we all down in the waters of the sea.
Leaving this interesting place, we just take a peep into
the Picture Gallery, then step, for a moment only, inside of
the Herbarium, where there are strange trees, and plants,
and flowers from all countries, growing under a glass roof
in furnace heat, that soon brings out great beads of sweat
upon the brow. The gardener, who is trimming the trees,
gives me a piece of the India-rubber tree, which I put
in my pocket with thanks, and escape to cooler air.
We now pass through a strong partition into the Zoolo-
gical Gardens. Here there are no grass and fountains,
only a sandy space with a Liberty pole in the centre ;
whilst ranged round the outer edge, against high and
strong enclosures are cages containing wild beasts.
THE CHILDREN S CHAPTER. 135
From this spot, only the Sabbath before our visit, a
godless German went up in a balloon, was blown against
the rocks not far off, and all but killed ; it was believed
he would die. Men who break God's day will be broken
themselves.
On one side of the grounds are stalls opening into
small open yards, where the quieter animals are kept.
Here are buffaloes, their powerful fore-quarters covered
with long shaggy hair, small bright eyes glistening down
in the depths, short stubby horns just showing their
tips, and a pate so hard that a leaden bullet flattens
harmlessly against it. In the next stall is a huge elephant,
with dark, dirty, hairless hide, great round ungainly feet,
ears big as a shoemaker's apron, flapping about, large
shining tusks of ivory, and between them the long, writh-
ing, rubbery trunk, with which he is gathering up wisps of
straw and thrusting them into his mouth ; with this trunk
he both feeds himself and fights. This biggest of living
brutes has a very small eye, but it is very full of intelli-
gence. Now and then he utters a rough, rumbling roar.
Next to him, again, is the ungainly but useful camel
meek, patient, enduring. Some have a hump on the
back before, some behind, and some in the middle, whilst
others have one before and another behind, with a hollow
between. I think if I were crossing the desert on one I
should choose the last ; the saddle would fit nicely in
the hollow, and there would be no danger of slipping off.
1 1 ere also is the sacred cow of the Hindoos ; she too
136 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
has a hump on the back, just behind the shoulders. She
is quietly chewing the cud like common cows, wears a
meek barn-yard look, and seems as if she might make a
good milker and nothing more.
Passing on to the cages, we come to a pretty one look-
ing like a summer-house, standing by itself on the sand.
It has several apartments containing a variety of the
smaller animals, two kinds specially taking our fancy
the funny little prairie dogs and a lot of grinning mon-
keys all rooming together ; they are ill-assorted chums,
the monkeys leading the dogs a hard life. The little fel-
lows, industrious as on their native prairies, are digging
holes in the sand, which fill-up again as fast as dug;
still the exercise keeps them healthy and fat. Do see
that monkey ! Without any provocation, with no offence
calling for chastisement a piece of sheer wickedness on
his part he swings himself down by the tail, and gives
the unsuspecting little digger a cuff on the side of the
head that stretches him dead on the sand ! No, not dead,
but lying as still as if he were, and slyly watching the
movements of the monkey. I suspect he is shamming,
that he may escape his tormentor. These dogs, like the
conies, are a " feeble folk," but exceeding wise.
Let us have a good look at this Californian vulture, the
largest bird of prey in North America, and next to the
condor of the Andes, in South America, the largest bird
that flies in the world. The length of this one is four feet,
and its breadth between the tips of the outspread wings,
137
ten feet. It is a bold, powerful bird. One swooped
down upon a good-sized calf in the midst of the herd,
carried it up twenty feet, and then dropped it badly
hurt ; the terrified boy tending the herd, waiting to see
no more, took to his heels.
You have heard of the terrible grizzlies, the biggest of
bears ; I might have showed you in the Museum a stuffed
baby grizzly about the size of a sucking pig ; but look at
this huge fellow before us, four feet high, seven feet long,
and weighing 2,000 Ibs. He is a great big, clumsy, awk-
ward, shuffling creature j but let him have his liberty and
he will run nearly as fast as a horse. It is hard to kill
them unless the bullet hits back of the shoulder about the
heart. Hunters and miners would rather meet any other
beast than a grizzly. When I was among the mountains,
a man who had been living there for twenty years told me
that a miner started out in the morning with pick and pan
to look for gold ; not returning for two or three days, his
friends formed a party of search ; they found him dead
under a pile of leaves and brush. After a careful exami-
nation of the spot they arrived at these facts : searching
for gold up a gulch, he crawled on his hands and knees
under some chapparal tangled thorny brush which pre-
vented him seeing danger until he came suddenly on a
bear's den containing a grizzly and cubs ; having killed
him, she dragged the body away some distance and covered
it over as it was found.
Continuing our way along the cages, we pass badgers,
J
138 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
wolves, opossums, ant-eaters, black, red, white and silver
foxes, panthers, Californian, Asiatic and African lions, with
a great many other animals which we cannot stay to de-
scribe. One more cage, however, and we will say good-
bye to the Gardens. It contains the Unhappy Family. In
it are a cat, a " coon," a pig, and a lot of the most mischiev-
ous of monkeys. The cat and 4 coon are a match for the
monkeys, so they are left in peace ; but the poor pig has
no rest ; not a minute but some monkey is playing pranks
on him. It is pork in purgatory. They pluck out his
hair, whole paw-fulls at a pull ; the pig squeals, the mon-
keys wink, make faces, dance around their victim, and
pull again. The tormented porker raises himself half up
on his fore-feet, and sleepily looks around for a quieter
corner ; pulling away more vigorously than ever, the tor-
mentors soon succeed in getting him fully up just what
they wanted from the start ; in the twinkling of an eye
every monkey is down upon him, one sitting between his
ears face forward, another sitting on his rump face back-
ward, and holding on to the tail, whilst his back and sides
are swarming with as many as can stick, some solemn, some
grinning all having a jolly good ride ! We pity the pig,
and cry out against the cruelty ; and yet, at the same time,
he is so fat and flourishing we cannot help laughing till
our sides are sore and the tears running down our face.
Now we will return to the city and get a good night's
rest.
Early the next morning, before the winds are up to
139
blind us with clouds of sand, we are off to the Cliff House,
the favorite resort of the " Friscans," on the sea-ward side
of the peninsula overlooking the Grand Pacific Ocean.
" The sea ! the sea ! its lonely shore ;
Its billows crested white ;
The clouds which flit its bosom o'er,
Or sunbeams dancing bright ;
The breakers bursting on the strand,
In thunder to the ear ;
The frowning cliff, the silvery sand
Each, all, to me are dear."
A ride of two-and-a-half miles on the street cars brings
us to Lone Mountain, on whose top is planted a huge
cross, seen far out at sea. From the mountain is to be
had one of the best views of San Francisco and its sur-
roundings. Here we connect with busses starting every
half-hour if they carry out their advertised arrangements,
which they do not always do for the beach, four-and-a-
miles farther on. The broad road, smooth and firm as a
floor, runs over rolling ground, their heights giving us
glimpses of the Golden Gate off to the right, with the
lovely mountains rising beyond ; on our left are several
cemeteries Protestant, Roman Catholic and Chinese.
All around us are now barren sandhills, but ere long this
desert will blossom as the rose ; the entire drive from the
city to the sea will be through the charming villas of
wealthy citizens.
Spinning along the smoothest of roads, stirred by the
novelties of surroundings, stimulated by the strong sea air,
140 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
fairly trembling with delight and expectation, it is hard to
keep down a shout as we rise to the top of the last hill,
and there bursts upon us the grandest of oceans ! But a
hush comes over us as we look upon it sleeping in the morn-
ing sun, its heaving bosom studded with shining sails,
beating softly against the bluffs, or sobbing on the sands
over some unforgotten storm-sorrow ; ever glorious, power-
ful as pacific, it stretches away and away until its waves
surge and sing along the shores whence came the human
race, civilization and Christianity.
With mingled emotions and tumultuous thoughts we
dash down the hill and rein up before the Cliff House.
Hastening through the hall, we are soon standing on the
spacious piazza overhanging the sea. Oh ! it is a thrill-
ing hour. But hark ! a strange sound comes across the
waters ; it is unlike the gurgling, sucking sound of the sea
running in and out among the rocks under our feet ; it is
the voice of the sea-lions. Directly out from us, a gun-shot
off, are the celebrated seal rocks. There are several of
them, naked, rugged, steep rising from fifty to a hundred
feet. They are the property and resort of a vast number
of sea-lions. It is a strange sight, those denizens of the
deep gathering here daily under the eyes of men closely
watching them, and yet as indifferent to their presence as
if the world were all their own. This is doubtless owing
to great natural courage and freedom from molestation
the laws protecting them from all disturbance under heavy
penalties. They are buff, brown and grey; some are
THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. 141
small, others large one, a scarred veteran, ugly and over-
bearing, has been christened by Southerners, Ben Butler ;
he is not less than nine feet long, and will weigh between
two and three thousand pounds. Another large one,
sleek and peaceable, is called Sumner, after the accom-
plished slavery-hating Senator from Massachusetts.
The sea elephant sometimes, though seldom, seen on
these shores, is a very leviathan of the deep, measuring
eighteen feet in length and weighing 5,000 pounds ; it
yields as much as 180 gallons of oil.
The lions that we see on these rocks come in May and
stay until November, disappearing during winter no one
knows where. They spend their summer here very much
as do visitors to the sea-side eating, sleeping, swimming,
climbing the rocks, sunning themselves, making a good
deal of noise, with some crowding, bickering and back-
biting.
They are wonderful climbers. These slimy creatures,
with never a foot but fins, will squirm and wriggle them-
selves up slippery steeps which no boy, not even Jack the
Giant Killer, could climb. They are sleeping and sun-
ning themselves all over the rocks, one huge fellow being
stretched on the very summit. As you see, they are very
fat, feeding on fish and fowl. Hundreds of the latter,
especially gulls, are always about, some on the water,
some on the wing and others on the rocks when they
can get leave and room. The seals are as cunning at
catching the gulls as the fox that caught the goose by
142 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
swimming out among the flock under cover of a piece of
moss. When they see a gull in the water, they dive deep
and swim beneath the unsuspecting bird ; then, darting
straight up, they seize the legs, dragging the owner under.
When they see one hovering over the water in search
of food, they swim near the surface and break the water
like a fish. If the water is rough, the gull, unable to detect
the trick, swoops down to catch the fish, and catches
" a tartar."
CHAPTER XL
THE CHINESE.
HE Chinese, like the Argonauts of old, left
their land and crossed the seas in quest of
the Golden Fleece. The discovery of gold in
California was the Magnetic Mountain that first
drew John from his native shores. Some come free
and independent, to push their fortunes ; others, and
the majority perhaps, come out under contract to
large Chinese Companies who engage to give them
a certain sum per month for a number of years, and
then, on their arrival in California, farm out their
labor at large profits to the Company. Though
their remuneration is low often less than $8 per month
and unprincipled speculators are rapidly enriched by the
sweat of their brow, still, it is said they seldom break a
contract. These Companies have in San Francisco a large
144 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
building where all those whom they bring out are lodged
and fed until placed.
They rendered invaluable service in building the Cen-
tral Pacific Railroad; 10,000 were brought over and
placed upon the line. It is questionable if the road had
ever been built without them. There are still employed
upon the road, keeping it in repair and otherwise engaged,
1,200 a Chinaman and a half to every mile.
For years their coming was bitterly denounced by certain
classes in the community. Ready to go anywhere and to
do anything, and with admirable success too, at unprece-
dentedly low wages, their arrival was hailed with hope by
employers, and with stones and curses by the laboring
classes. John often had to board up his windows to
keep out the cobble stones, whilst his employers were
assassinated. So wide-spread and influential did the
Chinese question become, that political candidates for
office would harangue against the new-comers on the hust-
ings, but in private frankly confess it was a piece of
necessary demagogueism to secure election ; the Chinese
were really needed for the development of the country.
Disability laws directed against them were passed,
partly to appease popular clamor, and partly as a precau-
tion against the strange untried population pouring into
their midst. A treaty formed with China gave them the
right of coming to this country, of living here and engaging
in business, but denied them privileges of naturalization.
They had no votes, could elect no officers, and could not
THE CHINESE. 145
testify in a court of law. Restrictions, however, are
being gradually removed, and additional privileges
granted. San Francisco has abolished the system of
Separate Schools, and opened all alike to American,
Chinese, Indians and Negroes ; whilst already a Chinese
young woman has applied for a position as teacher. Sa-
cramento is following the example of her sister city. At
first sometimes turbulent, they are now generally set-
tling down into a peaceful, law-abiding element. Still, on
every hand you will find their coming cursed, and their
going rejoiced over.
While I was in San Francisco one of the public papers
endorsed as " an admirable address" the following utter-
ances of a Jesuit priest in a Romish church : " I say, if
they (the Chinese) should ever become domiciled in our
country, your posterity will be doomed to a miserable
fate, against which it will be useless for them to struggle,
for it will not have power to resist it ; and bitter, aye, bit-
ter will be the curses on your memory when you are gone,
for the legacy which you have left to it."
These things have created in the Chinese who have
come to the United States, an intense hatred towards the
Americans. Many of them have the idea that the
" Melican man/' not the Jews, crucified Christ ; and when
John is angered by them he is not slow to cast it in their
teeth. In spite of all opposition, John comes and stays.
Chinese character is not easily turned from its purpose.
Whether the aim is high or low, it plods and waits and
146 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
wins ; whilst hundreds of others, boasting their own supe-
riority, and sneering at the snail, miss the goal.
There are in San Francisco alone 25,000 Chinese,
whilst double that number are scattered over the State
from the coast to the summit of the Sierras. I found
them in the Yosemite. " They number one quarter of
the male adults of California, and are flocking into the
State faster than ever." A steamer arrived while I was
there, bringing 500 ; sometimes a single vessel brings
1,000. Within the month in which I write nearly 5,000
arrived. There is room for three millions in California ;
but they are not confining themselves to the Golden State,
they are rapidly spreading themselves over the adjoining
States and Territories, and even across the Continent.
A good idea of their industry and success may be
gathered from the fact that the Chinese in the mines dig six
million dollars annually, being one-third of the entire gold
yield of the State. And this six million is rarely the
result of any great "find," but often the reward of
deserted washings washed over for the twentieth time. I
often found John panning away in places which had been
gone over as far back as '49 ; and yet, again and again he
would gather from this refuse a bigger " pile " at the year's
end than many a miner less plodding and painstaking
would gather from far richer diggings.
John is a "jack of all trades." In the city, as will
hereafter be seen, he is variously engaged ; in the country
you will find him in the vineyards, tending the flocks and
THE CHINESE. 147
herds, driving team, tilling the soil, digging ditches, build-
ing roads, in the kitchen, in the laundry giving new gloss
to old linen, waiting at the table, doing duty as chamber-
maid ; in fine, he has made himself necessary and accept-
able in every department of service.
The Chinese are imitators rather than originators ;
their power of imitation is proverbial. They take your
photograph away and, in a very short time return with
your portrait in oil admirably executed if you will excuse
a certain mechanical stiffness, the usual characteristic of
imitators.
A lady of Macao sat to a Chinese artist for her portrait.
As the work proceeded she grew more and more dissatis-
fied with its lack of pleasing expression. " Suppose," said
the artist, " you smile a little, he look better." " He "
didn't smile, only frowned the darker all of which was
scrupulously transferred to the canvas. When the por-
trait was finished the lady's indignation knew no bounds ;
whilst the exasperated artist cried out " If handsome
face no got, how handsome face can make ? "
A housewife in Vancouver, teaching her Chinese cook
to make a pudding, found that the third egg she broke
was bad, and threw it away. The cook had learned his
lesson only too well he faithfully threw every third egg
away, good or bad.
Some one tells of a traveller giving to a Chinese tailor
an order for twelve pairs of nankin pants, leaving with
him, at the same time, for a pattern, an old pair with a
148 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
patch on the knee ; the order was faithfully executed and
the pants delivered on board ship, every pair with a patch
on the knee.
I do not know very much about their habits of inter-
course among themselves ; but in their dealings with the
whites they are usually quiet and good-natured.
They have a school-boy fondness for knives, which are
their chief methods of defence ; they always carry one or
two hidden away under their blouse. They never fight
with their fists, but sometimes scratch, leaving behind
ugly wounds with their bird-claw nails.
As the United States Government places no restriction
upon their use of opium, they give themselves up very
generally to the destructive indulgence. Large quanti-
ties of it are smuggled into the country. Smoking is the
favorite method of using it. The pipe is a bamboo stick
perhaps two feet long; two-thirds of the way down the
stem from the mouth-piece is fixed a small china bowl,
into which is placed a very small quantity of opium,
which is smoked out in half a minute. Opium dens
abound in San Francisco. Arranged along the sides of
the rooms are tiers of shelves, on which the smokers are
stowed side by side, two or three on a shelf, and supplied
with opium-charged pipes, when they give themselves up
to delicious sensations, dreams, drunkenness and deli-
rium. It is a costly as well as ruinous indulgence, the
price of opium being $18 per ounce.
They never " take tobacco, snuff nor drams," but they
THE CHINESE. 149
are a race of inveterate gamblers. The hard-earned, care-
fully-hoarded gains are readily risked under the influence
of this fascinating vice. Gambling dens, like those for
opium-smoking, abound in San Francisco ; but the per-
nicious practice is not confined to these places : every-
where, whenever they get a moment's respite from labor,
they resort to their favorite pursuit.
The great mass of those who come to this Continent
are from the lowest classes, with very unsettled notions of
the morals of meum and tuum. They are such adepts at
theft and concealment that it is exceedingly difficult for
a detective to ferret them out unless one of themselves
turn traitor. The Chief of the Water Police one day point-
ed out to me a certain Ah Fook,whose piercing eye, and
quick but cautious movements, at once marked him out as
no ordinary man. " That fellow," said the chief, " is the
sharpest Chinaman in America. He renders us sometimes
great service ; if he helps us we are pretty sure of working
up any case we undertake ; but if he refuse, we may as
well give it up."
It is said that a peculiar custom prevails among them
at the close of the year. The debtor on that day pays
the largest per centage he can. On New Year's Day the
creditor cancels the unpaid portion, embraces the debtor,
and tells him he is free. Afterwards the debtor pays, if
possible, the amount cancelled not as an obligation, but
as a matter of pride.
Two or three hundred dollars is, to the most of them,
150 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
a fortune ; at all events a splendid start towards it. The
height of their ambition in coming to America is to se-
cure that sum and then return. Coming in large numbers,
losing no time on their arrival, living cheaply chiefly on
fish and rice ; dressing as economically their clothing,
nankin breeches and cotton blouse ; spending the least
possible outside of themselves, they thus manage to accu-
mulate, in the aggregate, millions of money annually, and
all this is carefully sent or carried back to China. This
selfish sponge policy is one thing that tends to embitter
the American mind against them, and it is a worthy cause
of complaint. But there is another side to the question :
they are faithful, efficient laborers in every department of
industry ; they have reduced the price of labor to reason-
able rates ; they are, in fine, absolutely necessary to
the opening up of all the important interests of the
country.
As far as dollars and cents are concerned, Jonathan
owes quite as much to John as John does to Jonathan.
No Chinaman ever comes to stay ; if he did, it would
imperil his hopes of heaven. If he die in a foreign land
his bones must be carried back, and placed in the sepul-
chre of his fathers. Hundreds do die here, but every
steamer carries back their remains the poor having
returned to dust, the rich preserved by embalming.
Their religion is chiefly Buddhism the worship of
Buddha, an image in human form. Practically a large
THE CHINESE. 15!
proportion of them are Atheists. They observe no
Sabbath, and their temples are seldom attended except
on fete days, and then but thinly.
Having obtained this general information, we are quite
prepared now for a visit to China-town, the Chinese
quarters in the heart of San Francisco embracing Dupont,
California, and Jackson Streets, with their lanes and alleys.
If you visit the place after night-fall, it will be well to
secure the services of Policeman Woodruff, on Jackson
Street, who has special charge of this section, and to
whom all the " ins and outs " are well known. A douceur
of two or three dollars will give him silent satisfaction,
but five dollars will make him demonstrative. If you do
not wish to penetrate into the vilest holes, daylight will
do, and the policeman's services may be dispensed with.
You are perfectly safe during the day, and will see
enough, it may be, to engross your attention during all
the time you have to spend.
Walking down Montgomery Street the Broadway of
San Francisco to where California or Jackson Street in-
tersects it, we turn to the left up the hill and, are at once in
China-town. Leaving behind the firm of Nill & Finck,
the last representatives of the English and German popu-
lation, and, judging from the name, the last link connect-
ing with the Celestials, we are introduced to Messrs.
Kie Wo, Man Shing, Chong Fook Tong, Tung Kee,
Yuen Hang, Yu Henn Choy, Quong Tuck, Man Wo,
Tuck Wo, Sing Wo, Hung Wo Tong, Hung Yet, Quong
152 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Yek Chong, Hang Lung, and a host of other names
equally elegant and euphonious.
The place swarms with Celestials ; it is a very hive of
industry, with, I should say, few drones. The shops are
all open on Sunday as on Saturday ; there is no difference
in the days except that business is brisker on the Lord's
day than during the week. Thousands out at service,
being freed on the Sabbath, gather here on that day
which adds to the bustle and business. The eating
saloons, opium dens, gambling hells and theatres do a
specially good business on this day.
You are struck, at the very outset, with the absence of
women. There are not over one thousand Chinese
women in America, and but few of these are wives. Many
of the men are married, but they leave their wives in
China. No respectable man would be willing to bring
his wife into such a place as China-town.
Fine-looking men are exceedingly rare, judging them
either from a European stand-point, or comparing them
with themselves. I saw only one in all the land who
could fairly lay claim to noble looks. They are almost
invariably undersized, of sallow complexion not a pure
olive sunken features, flat-chested and lean. I saw but
one man who approached six feet in height, and he was
the very picture of misery a wrecked opium eater.
There is, at first sight, to the eye of a stranger, great
uniformity in their appearance ; but, after a while, he can
easily draw distinctions some standing out in marked
THE CHINESE. 153
individuality. They are not an undeveloped people in
some directions. They are, however, slow to leave off
native habits and take on new, You seldom see them
wearing an American dress. The usual habit is the loose
nankin breeches of blue, enclosed at the knee in white
hozen ; a blouse of the same color and material as the
breeches, or better, closely fitting round the neck and
buttoned on one side, falling loosely down to the thighs ;
and shoes of cloth uppers and wooden soles. Sometimes
a greasy skull cap of cotton is worn bagging down be-
hind, sometimes a shallow jaunty hat; but very often
John goes about uncovered, yet most scrupulously
protecting his pigtail, upon whose perpetuity and length
his happiness hereafter is, in some mysterious way, sus-
pended.
Economical to miserliness, they crowd together in a
disgusting state of dirt and disorder. Not an inch of
space is lost. In the same cellar, opening out upon the
street, it is not uncommon to see barbering, carpentering,
cooking, confection making and other industries, all going
on at the same time. Exposed in the open windows, and
thickly strung about the doors, are sausages of unknown
contents, fish and swine's flesh variously prepared, fowls'
gizzards and livers, with innumerable ducks pressed flat
as pancakes and preserved in oil. These are some of
their merchandise which a stranger may recognise ; there
are other articles of food of whose ingredients he can only
conjecture. I desired to take one meal in a Chinese
K
154 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
restaurant, but after a close inspection of dishes on exhi-
bition, found myself lacking in both tooth and trust.
Here is a first-class restaurant with balconies extending
over the street. Profusely painted and gilded, it presents
a gaudy, glittering front. It is thronged by men, with
whom mingle a few painted, showily-dressed women.
Whilst their diet is usually cheap and simple, the Chinese,
nevertheless, pride themselves on being able to prepare
the most recherche entertainments. Sea and land, regard-
less of cost, are ransacked that their dishes known to
number over 300 at one banquet may do honor to some
distinguished guest. Black tea is used never green. They
have not yet accustomed themselves to the use of bread,
but keep to rice, eating it with chop-sticks ; these they
use with as much ease and effect as we our spoon and
fork.
They usually trade in companies numbering from three
to ten some of the firms embracing a large amount of
wealth. One was pointed out to me of such high repu-
tation that their cheque for $50,000 would be as readily
cashed as that of any American merchant. They deal
chiefly in silks, teas, rice, and various Chinese and
Japanese wares. It is a rare treat, well repaying the time
spent, to go through the establishment of one of the
wealthier merchants. The ingenuity and patience evi-
dent in the production of many things is truly marvel-
lous. Fans of sandal wood, card cases of ivory, cabinets
of inlaid woods exquisitely wrought, the most elegant
THE CHINESE. 155
lacquered wares, ornamental and useful, are some of the
articles sought after by strangers as souvenirs to be borne
to wondering eyes in far distant homes. Here are mag-
nificent vases of delicately raised figures, fit to grace the
rooms of royalty, ranging from $200 up to $800 per pair.
The Chinese are slaves to superstition. A settlement
of them in the southern part of the State had suffered
severely from malaria. They send for their doctors from
San Francisco, who come and prescribe, but their patients
are nothing the better. They send for their priests ; they
too come, but bring no relief. Finally they band together,
subscribe $1,000 to pay expenses, obtain a band of music,
and four hundred of them turn out in procession, armed
with banners, swords, knives and other insignia of war.
In order to accomplish their purpose more effectually,
they make hideous images and bear them aloft on poles ;
they are determined to drive the devil out of their village
or die in the attempt.
Passing along the streets of China-town, I was struck
with the number of whole roasted hogs hanging from
hooks outside the door ; they were in good demand, the
dealer, without taking the carcase down, separating a por-
tion with a huge cleaver for his customer. These hogs
had already rendered service out at the Chinese Cemetery
in a barbecue, a religious ceremony consisting in feeding
the dead. Whole roast hogs, with rice and other dishes,
are placed upon the graves, either for the refreshment of
the departed or the propitiation of evil spirits ; after a
156 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
while they gather up their offering and eat it themselves.
The Indians of the mountains often profited by this singu-
lar custom during the building of the railroad ; from under
cover they would watch the Chinese deposit their offer-
ings on the graves of those who had died along the line ;
at the first opportunity they would slip out and steal the
sacrifice.
I visited a Joss House in China-town. It is in an out-of-
the-way place, with nothing in the externals to attract the
eye. Ascending several flights of stairs of the commonest
kind, we reach the room devoted to the god Joss. The
idol is a huge carving of wood in human form, plentifully
covered with paint and gilt. Besides this are several
images, one especially noteworthy a hideous figure the
Man kicked out of Heaven. The substance of their re-
ligion, as here practised, is : there are two Spirits the
good and the bad ; the good cannot do harm, and the
bad cannot do good, and may not, if propitiated, do harm.
Hence they feed him well. Then, following certain tra-
ditions and rules, they hope to dwell hereafter in peace
and happiness. But even in heaven they are still on
trial ; they must have a constant care lest they be kicked
out, and become like the ugly figure set up in the Joss
House for their warning.
The room is profusely decorated with gaudy trappings
and symbolical representations. On the floor and be-
fore the idols are dishes of food and burning Joss-sticks,
made of sandal wood or bamboo covered with odorife-
THE CHINESE. 157
rous dust. The place is fragrant from the aromatic fumes.
There are only two persons present besides myself a
caretaker (possibly a priest) and a common Chinaman.
They pay little regard to their duty or the sanctity of the
place ; as, if under the influence of opium, their hurried
jabbering rises to angry altercation.
In this nineteenth century of the Christian era, in the
very heart of an avowedly Christian city, on this Christian
continent, giving its millions annually for the conversion of
Pagans in other lands ; yes, in the very midst of Christian
homes and Christian churches, rise heathen temples ! Idols
are set up in the high places ; Ashtaroth is enthroned on
Mount Zion, and looks down with haughty contempt on
the deserted courts of the sanctuary. " O God, the
heathen are come into Thine inheritance." What is to
become of them ? Are they to be cast out or converted ?
May not their coming to us be the solution of that pro-
blem How are the 400,000,000 of China to be Chris-
tianized ? So serious are the obstructions within the
Empire that missionary movements gain ground slowly.
Is Providence overruling the love of money to the bring-
ing of these "Gentiles to the light?" One hundred
thousand are already scattered over this Continent, and
still they come in increasing numbers. All these, and
others who may come, are destined to return to their
native land. Has God no higher purpose than the serving
of mere material interests in this wonderful movement ?
The Gospel, not gold, are the riches which He desires
158 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
this people shall carry back to China. California must
Christianize the Chinese, or the Chinese will unchristianize
California.
CHAPTER XII.
MINING.
iHAT about the mines? Are there many
mines now in California ? or is mining played
out? are questions often asked.
f When Humboldt visited these shores in 1803, he
predicted the finding of gold. The traveller from
the East, as he sweeps down the western slopes of
the Sierras, sees for the first time, at Gold Run and
other places, abundant evidence that the great savant
was no false prophet.
Sixty-eight miles from Sacramento, a little north
of east, at Coloma, Eldorado County, on January
1 2th, 1848, gold was first discovered by one Mar-
shall, in the mill-race of Capt. Sutter. Since then
millions upon millions of the precious metal have been
taken out, and deserted diggings are to be found all
through the mining regions, and yet the gold yield is far
l6o TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
from exhausted ; the annual yield of the State is about
$18,000,000. Any day, waggons loaded with gold and
silver may be seen in the streets of San Francisco. The
City ships every month forty tons of silver and six tons of
gold, all in bars. Mining is not played out, but some
of the methods of mining are. The placer or surface
method has had its day, except as carried on chiefly by
the Chinese and Indians among the " slums " the tail-
ings of former washings.
It is believed by many that in the far past possibly in
the pre-Adamite period a mighty river flowed through
the valleys, gathering to itself, by means of melting snows
and heavy rains, rich deposits from the auriferous quartz
of the Sierra Range. To obtain the gold found in these
deposits surface diggings were instituted, the water often
being brought long distances from the mountains for
washing purposes. Until late years this was the general
as well as the cheapest method of mining. But the bed
of every brooklet and every river having been gone over
again and again, the miners turned from the placer pro-
cess to the hydraulic a somewhat similar system, but on
grander scale.
Along the Sierras' base is a range of foot hills extending
north and south a distance of 500 miles. In these, as in
the ancient river bed, are found deposits of gold. Rib-
bed by no continuous rocky ranges, only abounding in
huge boulders imbedded in loose debris, they can be
easily mined down by the hydraulic process. As the
MINING. 1.6 1
stream of water used for the purpose nears its des-
tination, it is conducted through a wooden tunnel com-
posed of stout staves bound together by iron bands ; from
the wooden tunnel it is conveyed, with a fall of from
thirty to three hundred feet, through a canvas duck hose,
a volume of twenty inches, issuing finally from a brass or
iron nozzle with terrific force against the mass to be
undermined ; it does its work quickly and well. The
operators need look sharply to themselves lest they be
overtaken by the falling mass. Large sections have
been levelled by this process and vast quantities of gold
extracted. This is the method in operation at Gold Run,
and other places, on the Central Pacific Railroad.
Again there are the River Diggings. A dam is thrown
across the river's course changing its channel ; then tap-
ping the river above the dam to obtain the necessary
supply of water, the miner washes the original river bed.
Again there are the Dry Diggings. These are worked
during the rainless season, from May to November, when
all the smaller streams, and even rivers, are dried up. If
the miner can succeed in bringing to his help a small
supply of water, he will often during his six months'
harvest reap rich returns. But all these methods of min-
ing will soon have been processes of the past. The gold
yield of the future must be from quartz mining.
" The peak where burns the flush of morn,
The glen in which a torrent rolled,
The crater where the De'il was born,
Are hemmed and stratified with gold ;
1 62 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
And e'en the quartz which bind the shore,
Sweat out at times the precious ore."
The foot-hills. and every yard of alluvial land contain-
ing gold will soon have been sifted over and over ; but
the mountains remain. True, quartz mining requires the
largest capital, and often long patience, for the precious
fruit of the rocks ; but, on the whole, in the hands of the
experienced and patient, it is the safest and the most re-
munerative of mining.
Before closing this short chapter, it may not be unin-
teresting to my readers if I take them on a tour to a
decayed mining town. To save time and expense for
it is very expensive to a stranger and tourist in California
we will visit Mariposa on our way to the Big Trees
and Yosemite. Mariposa, a half day's drive from
Merced, on the railroad, is situated among the foot-hills
of the Sierras. It is famous for being the Government
grant to General Fremont, the man who, more than any
other, first awakened an interest in this Western world.
The location of the land was left to himself; but the dis-
covery of gold greatly perplexed him in putting down
the stakes. Several times it was asserted he had made
his selection ; but the discovery of richer diggings outside
his lines kept his grant, like Gulliver's island in the air,
a shifting possession. Though the property has mostly
passed from Fremont's hands into those of pastern spe-
culators, it is difficult to determine, even to this day, its
exact location.
MINING. 163
Evidences of decayed mining interests meet us miles
before we reach Mariposa town. There is a quartz
mine at Princeton, a town consisting chiefly of a few
deserted dwellings and shops, with one inhabited tavern
kept by a Sandwich Islander. Extensive works and
great piles of refuse ore meet the eye, but no miners ;
they left, not from any failure in the mines, but from
failure in their pockets.
Continuing our way we pass old surface diggings in
which a celibate, solitary Irishman with pick and pan is
leading a not altogether forlorn hope. A few days before
he had found a nugget worth $167.
As the foot-hills begin to rise into mountains we reach
Mariposa, formerly and still the county town. All
around us the ground has been worked over. In the
suburbs we passed the place of one Devaney, who,
like many another, had found a fortune in his potato
patch. In the winter, when the streams were full, he
changed the course of one down the mountain, directing
it towards his acre ; in two months, from around his door,
he took out $19,000, and was now hopefully waiting for
the return of the rainy season to renew his operations.
This, however, was but an oasis in the desert. Farther on,
in the heart of the town, down in the almost dry bed of
the river, we found a squad of Chinamen patiently going
over " slums " that had been gone over before, no telling
how many times ; and they were making it pay too $4
to $7 per day. This was about the extent of mining in a
164 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
region once swarming with miners, and considered among
the most productive portions of California.
There still remained among the more striking buildings
of the town a creditable number of neat churches, now
little used ; a gaol empty and falling into ruins ; several
brick shops with iron doors and shutters but, in spite of
all, the fire fiend had entered some, and adversity others,
leaving them the mocking memorials of the blasted hopes
of better days. One shop, still occupied and very well
stocked, had cost $10,000 ; but the proprietor assured
me, if he wanted to sell, it would not fetch $500. One
or two taverns seemed to be eking out a scanty subsis-
tence through the custom of well-taxed tourists. A few
idlers quondam miners and speculators too poor or
too lazy to leave, were lounging around the tavern, waiting
for something to turn up.
The situation of Mariposa is charming. Flocks of sheep
are feeding on the slopes even up to the very summits.
The climate is delightful and salubrious sickness of any
kind scarcely known. The soil is eminently fertile to the
highest points, and is suited to the growth of almost every-
thing. Delicious grapes, pears, peaches, pomegranates,
etc., are rotting in the gardens the yield being generous,
the local demand small, and market beyond, none. Such
is a fair sketch of many like scenes in California. There
are other mining interests in the State besides those of
gold, of immense value. The quicksilver mines of Alma-
den, etc., are said to be unsurpassed by even those of Peru.
MINING. 165
Fresh discoveries, full of promise, are being constantly
made, especially in the northern part of the State, on the
Coast Range.
What California has most to fear is, not the failure of
the gold yield, but the recklessness of her speculators. If
ever ruin comes, it will not be from exhausted mines, but
from the gambling stockbrokers of San Francisco. Cali-
fornia Street, the Wall Street of the West, is the battle-
field of the " Bulls and Bears," to whom, more than all
else, are owing the disasters that have come upon the
country from time to time. As late as the early part of
last January, 1875, stocks under " Ring " pressure went up
to their culminating point. Men were mad. Hasting to
be rich they fell into a snare. Before the month was over
stock had depreciated in the aggregate $100,000,000.
What a gambling hell ! and a hell of man's own making.
Hardly six months have passed away, and there come
across the wires, even as I write, accounts of another
crash as bad or worse. California Street is thronged with
an excited multitude whose all is swallowed up where
millions have disappeared before in trie maelstrom of
speculation. The city is convulsed with fear or failure.
Almost every bank or broker has closed the door. In
the great cities of the Continent, from ocean to ocean, and
even beyond the sea, in European marts, is felt the pain-
ful throb. Might it not be to the country a boon of
untold value if the mines were " played out ? "
CHAPTER XIII.
AGRICULTURE.
}HEN gold was first discovered in California,
popular opinion, formed from hearsay, held
it to be a narrow peninsula on the Pacific
Coast, of little importance except as gold diggings ;
as soon as those were exhausted, the country would
be abandoned to the Indians and wild beasts. The
pioneer " forty-niners," on their arrival, were as-
tonished to find a land 700 miles long and over
200 wide ; but arriving in the rainless season, the
parched appearance which everywhere met the
eye led them to look upon the entire land, ex-
cepting the irrigated gardens, as a worthless waste.
Time and trial have corrected all these false impressions.
California contains an area of ninety-nine million acres,
two-thirds of which are suitable for agriculture and stock-
raising. In fact, the earliest staple of the country was
AGRICULTURE. 167
cattle, not gold. Vast herds roamed over the valleys,
rapidly enriching their owners at the price of little pains
and less outlay.
The climate is pre-eminently adapted to sheep raising,
the long dry season being so favorable to the fleece that
often a second shearing, amounting to one-third of the
annual yield, is clipped in the fall. After the rainless
season has set in, leaving the pasturage dry and scant,
the sheep, in vast numbers, are driven first to the foot-
hills, then long distances into the mountains where the
herbage remains juicy and inviting.
On our way into the Yosemite, all along the trail we
observed the mountains neatly terraced to their summits
with narrow and well-trodden walks. On enquiring the
cause from the guide, he told us it was occasioned by the
vast flocks of sheep which were annually driven in and
out. Remarking to him, at the same time, the openness
of the woods, he added that was owing to the shepherds,
on coming out, at the close of the season, setting fire to
the underbrush behind them, thereby lessening the loss
of wool by the way. We were assured by intelligent
authorities that during the present season there were not
less than 200,000 sheep in the Sierras along this one line.
Flocks were often scattered and large numbers lost, being
eventually devoured by bears. One shepherd coming out
as we were going in, lost 300 in the vicinity of the Yo-
semite. He spent several days searching for them with ill-
success. It was nearing November, and he was anxious to
1 68 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
reach the valleys ; so he sold out all claim on the
lot to a Yosemite man for $10. The next day, the
purchaser, guessing with Yankee shrewdness the where-
abouts of the stray sheep, sallied forth with an
assistant ; they returned at nightfall with forty ! one
of them a valuable merino, worth many times the amount
he had paid for the lot. He took me out to the yard,
and, with significant winks and other highly expres-
sive signs of satisfaction, pointed to the safely folded
flock. Notwithstanding these and other losses, sheep-
raising, well conducted, is one of the most profitable
employments in the State.
In 1853, a man from Ohio, burdened with debt, came to
California with 300 sheep. He said that each of these
sheep netted him $1,000. He is now one of the largest
sheep owners in the State, and the possessor of 100,000
acres of land.
In "Nordhoff's California," it is stated that "Cattle
can be more easily and profitably soiled " in this climate
than elsewhere. A quarter of an acre of beets, planted
as the beets are used, will keep two cows ; and the
beet grows in California not only the whole year, but for
two years if it is kept in the ground. Corn and other
fodder may be sown in every month, and a wise farmer
can stall-feed stock of all kinds here more cheaply and
easily than in any other State. Of alfalfa, the Chilian
clover, a quarter of an acre will keep a cow in hay by
successive cuttings, nine months in the year."
AGRICULTURE. 169
The yellow, dried-up grass covering the country in the
rainless season is not so void of nourishment as a stranger
would naturally suppose. It cures uncut, retaining a very
considerable amount of nutriment ; it is never absolutely
dead ; long thread-like roots shooting down to the mois-
ture below preserves its life until the early rains come,
when it quickly revives, covering the whole country with
a brilliant carpet of emerald.
But it is to agriculture rather than stock-raising
that California chiefly looks for her future wealth.
Mining is a lottery with many blanks and few prizes ; but
farming gives bread enough and to spare to every indus-
trious, honest toiler. The earth, if faithfully served, is a
generous mother to us all. California is overstocked
with clerks, merchants, speculators, but there is plenty of
room for farmers. Thomas Carlyle is reported as
recently closing an interview with the London correspon-
dent of the San Francisco Chronicle with these words :
" You are doing no good there ; you are harming the
world. Cover over your mines, leave your gold in the
earth, and go to planting potatoes. Every man who
gives a potato to the world is a benefactor of his race ;
but you with your gold are overturning society, making
the ignoble prominent, increasing everywhere the expen-
ses of living, and confusing all things."
Doubtless there is a dash of Carlylian cynicism in these
utterances, and yet wrapped up in them is a principle of
the soundest philosophy. Not in her mines, but in her
L
170 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
fields, lies buried the secret of future permanency and
prosperity. And the country is fairly waking up to this
fact. State statistics show that whilst the gross products
arising from the mines are in the proportion of sixteen
per cent., those arising from farming are forty-five per
cent., and steadily increasing. Last year California pro-
duced, in proportion to its population, more wheat and wool
than any other State in the Union. The soil, generally a
gravelly clay and rich sandy loam, with suitable irrigation,
or even deep ploughing which it seldom gets may be
rendered eminently productive. A farm of 20,000 acres
lets for five years at an annual rent of $49,000. A Dr.
Glenn, said to be the most extensive farmer in the State,
sold the present year's crop of grain for nearly half a
million dollars in gold. Wheat is the staple. There are
farms of 40,000 acres, and all in wheat.
Much has been said about the wonderful yield per
acre of wheat and other grains, and yet, on comparing
their figures with ours, I find that Canada does not suffer
either in quantity or quality. In one point they are fre-
quently at a disadvantage unseasonable and severe
droughts ; in another point they have a sure and great
advantage over us the most charming weather for har-
vesting. So dry is the season that grain is threshed in
the fields, put in sacks and left standing on the spot for
weeks, until ready for shipment, when it is conveyed to
market in open cars. Again, they have a great advan-
tage over most countries in this : in the more southerly
AGRICULTURE. 1 7 I
parts of the State as many as five crops have been
gathered from the same field in the same season, three
very frequently, and two are commonly looked for, the
second crop being, not unusually, better than the first.
The alfalfa grass, on which sheep, cows, hogs and horses
alike fatten, may be cut six times and even oftener during
the year, the yield rising as high as fifteen tons to the acre.
I take that to be, not the yield of a single cutting, but of
the entire year. The soil is so rich in its depths that it
is not easily exhausted, the after crops, without manur-
ing, often surpassing the first. But farming very fre-
quently, specially in the great San Joaquin valley, which
contains seven million acres of the finest of grain-growing
lands, is almost as much behind the times, in its appli-
ances and methods, as that of the habitant in Lower
Canada. Here, where there is no rain from May to No-
vember, where irrigation is often difficult and costly, and
where deep ploughing is almost certain of supplying the
lack and securing good crops, so unenterprising or igno-
rant are the population that a subsoil plough is seldom
seen.
It may be asked, what do they do for fencing and fuel
in these treeless valleys ? As for the first, they mostly do
without them, the law requiring animals to be shut in by
their owners rather than shut out by their neighbors. In
agriculture, as in morals, more fencing is often needed to
keep out the bad than keep in the good. If a fence be
desired, it may be constructed of wire, or, better still, the
172 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
planting of willow and cotton-wood trees will in two years
so rapid is the growth afford at once a fence and
fuel enough being spared from it for the latter purpose.
But as for fuel, little is needed, save for culinary pur-
poses, where there is no winter. To meet whatever want
exists, in addition to the clippings from the hedges, some-
times coal is used, andsometimes the "Prairie schooners,"
on their return from the mountains, whither they have
carried supplies to the merchants and miners, are laden
with wood gathered from the foot-hills.
" Grangers " are numerous, and, in fighting the grain
" Rings," are exhibiting a degree of pluck and enterprise
that quite casts into the shade their brethren of the East.
They have made arrangements for the direct shipment of
their grain to Europe. An agent from the Grangers'
Business Association was sent to Liverpool last year, with
instructions to charter such vessels as might be necessary
and arrange for receipts and sales. Communications are
kept up by cable in cypher.
Before dismissing this subject, let us take a glance at
other productions of the soil flowers, fruits and vege-
tables. Eastern in-door plants of dwarfish dimensions here
flourish out of doors the year round, and grow to gigantic
proportions. Snow seldom falls in the central part of the
State, and when it does, quickly disappears at altitudes
less than 3,000 feet above the sea ; this elevation brings
us to the higher slopes of the Sierras.
The California papers have lately been describing a
AGRICULTURE. 1 73
rose belonging to Santa Barbara, on the sea-board, 500
miles south of San Francisco. It is sixteen and three-
quarter inches in circumference, its shortest diameter
five inches, and the measurement in various directions
from tip to tip of petals over six inches. The depth is
three inches. This they claim to be the largest rose on
record. It is called the Marechal Neil, a cupped variety,
of lemon tint and delightfully fragrant.
" California Taylor " (Rev. W.) speaks of Irish potatoes
weighing seven pounds, sweet potatoes ten pounds, cabba-
ges seventy pounds, pumpkins nearly two hundred and fifty
pounds. I heard an M.D. assert he once saw a pumpkin
that weighed four hundred and eighty-two pounds. I
did not contradict him, as he was " bigger than I,'' and
also wanting, I judged, in sound principles ; but I silently
set him down as a second Sinbad, and put his pumpkin
with the roc's egg. Still, any traveller may see on every
hand vegetables of enormous growth.
Almost every kind of fruit grown in the world, from a
" pineapple to a peanut," is, or may be, grown in Cali-
fornia. Even in the northern part of the State I found
growing in a garden, besides all the common kinds of
fruit, oranges, lemons, olives, bananas, figs, etc. Figs
grow luxuriantly, yielding even three crops in a season,
but as yet little use is made of them ; they are grown
more for variety's sake and ornament than for use. A
great variety of nuts, including almonds, walnuts, chest-
nuts, etc., is grown in the more southerly parts. Peaches
174 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
and apples are inferior to those of the East ; the latter,
though large, are lacking in the flavour of our Canadian
apple. It is conceded by the first fruit-growers in New
York State, and it may be further claimed, that there are
no apples grown on the Continent equalling some grown
on the Island of Montreal. In former years California
was more interested in the size and quantity rather than
in the quality of its productions. Latterly, however, they
are paying, not less attention to the former, but more to
the latter.
From one great affliction they are as yet free : there
are no worms in the apples, no curculio in the plums, no
weevil in the wheat.
The glory of California fruit are its grapes and pears.
Of the latter I need not speak, as we often meet with
them in our own market, large and luscious, ranging from
twenty-five cents to forty cents apiece ; but here, not un-
frequently, they are a drug in the market. Of the grapes
I will speak at length. They are ever reminding one of
the grapes of Eshcol. Those of the Levant are not
finer. Those grown in American and European hot-houses,
and sold for one dollar per pound are not a whit better,
if as good as those grown out of doors all over the land
and sold for a few cents a pound. Not only the valleys, but
especially the foot-hills of the Sierras, stretching from
Mount Shasta on the north to Santiago on the south,
present one of the finest grape-growing regions in the
world.
AGRICULTURE. 175
There are over 200 varieties cultivated in California.
The Mission grape, a large black variety, is the most ex-
tensively cultivated. It received its name, Mission, from
the old Spanish missionaries, who, unable to obtain wine
from abroad for sacramental purposes, introduced the
cultivation of this grape to supply the want. It is a de-
licious fruit and easily grown. So abundant is the yield
that at the time of my visit they were carted twenty-five
miles and sold for fifteen dollars per ton three-quarters of
a cent per pound.
Wine the pure juice of the grape the better class of
dealers, anxious to establish a reputation abroad, have
not yet learnt to adulterate it, pure wine is sold in
large quantities at from thirty to forty-five cents per gal-
lon. The best wine is made from the White Muscat or
Black St. Peter. The White Muscat of Alexandria is,
perhaps, the most delicious grape grown. In small
quantities they are usually sold three pounds for two "bits "
twenty-five cents. On landing in New York, with a keen
longing for the grapes left behind, one of the first fruits I
saw was the White Muscat, but of inferior size to those
of California. I priced them, and then, metaphorically,
" put a knife to my throat," they were fifty cents a pound!
The manufacture of raisins last year in California is
said to have yielded a profit of $500,000 in gold. The
manufacture this year promises an increase of three or
fourfold.
In France and Germany from twelve to twenty acres of
176 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
vineyard are considered a rich heritage ; but here the
vineyards range from twenty to hundreds of acres ; twenty-
five and thirty acres are common. I was told of one
vineyard containing four hundred acres. The vines are
planted eight feet apart, and yield an average of eight
pounds each.
At the State Fair held in Sacramento there was on ex-
hibition one bunch of grapes not all on one stem, but
the growth of one vine, so interlaced in the growth as to
be inseparable and called one bunch : that weighed ninety-
six pounds. But the most marvellous grape-vine in the State,
if not in the world, is at Santa Barbara it is the Mission
variety. Over fifty years ago i t was a slip stuck in the
ground by a Spanish lady, to whom it had been given by
her lover for a riding whip. Another version states that
it was planted by Dona Maria Marcelina de Dominguez
at the birth of a child, according to the custom of the
country. At the height of eight feet it measures round
four feet eight inches ; it here divides into several branches
eighteen inches round, spreading themselves over 4,000
square feet of trellis work. The vine yields from 8,000 to
10,000 pounds annually, reaching one year, it is said,
14,000 pounds.
In its fruitage California is the Goshen of America. It
is a land of plenty. Nature is generous to prodigality.
Friends have frequently asked me, particularly during the
unexampled cold Canadian winter which followed my
return, " Are you not inclined to go back and make Cali-
AGRICULTURE. 177
fornia your home ? " No ; not while there is an inheri-
tance for me in the house of my fathers. I have gone
from the Lakes to the Gulf, from the Atlantic to the
Pacific ; I have rejoiced in the garden spots of the East,
and spent delightful weeks in the cities and wilds of the
West ; I remember, and ever shall, the generous trust,
the princely hospitality, the homes I have found in
American family circles ; I think of all these things with
undiminished admiration and affectionate regard ; and
yet, with greater love I turn to " that true North," my
native Canadian home, content to " dwell among mine
own people."
CHAPTER XIV.
THE DIGGER INDIANS.
CALIFORNIA contains about 25,000 Indians,
scattered over the State from the Pacific
coast to the summit of the Sierra Nevada
mountains. They are divided into two great classes
2 the Mountain and the Mission Indians. The latter
are converts of the old Spanish Padres. The Jesuits
planted a mission at San Diego as early as 1697.
(Some authorities say the Franciscans were the first
to enter the field, and that not until the year 1769.)
Though the material was of the most unpromising
kind, yet with their accustomed energy they entered
upon the work. The Indians were turned from a
nomad life to settled and peaceful pursuits, many attain-
ing to very considerable skill in the cultivation of the soil
and other industries. Trained somewhat after the tradi-
tions of men and the rudiments of the world, still they
THE DIGGER INDIANS. 1 79
learned enough of Christ to be gathered into churches,
and conformed to Christian modes of worship.
The missions soon became self-sustaining. But the
Jesuits, ambitious for political as well as religious rule,
were speedily suppressed. Their work passed into the
hands of the Franciscans and Dominicans, under whose
labors the converts increased to 30,000. For fifty years these
workers had the field all to themselves ; they multiplied
missions, twenty-five miles apart, all the way from San
Diego to San Francisco, and rapidly accumulated vast
wealth. Then came a revolution. In 1822 Mexico
wrested the land from Spain, broke up the missions, and
suffered their works to fall into decay. Their ruins are
objects of interest to the tourist of to-day. In ten years
under Mexican rule the Christian Indians dwindled down
to 5,000. The remnants are distributed chiefly along the
coast of Southern California. Some are independent,
living on their own lands ; others are employed on
ranches; the rest are gathered on reservation lands,
housed and fed by the Government. Those who work
for themselves are the best off; those who work for others
come next ; those who work neither for themselves nor
anybody else are vagabonds. They are all given to drunk-
enness ; the latter are seldom sober; the former are sober
from Monday morning until Saturday night, but always
drunk on Sunday. The ranchero encourages this Sab-
bath drinking, and freely sells them liquor, excusing him-
self by saying it is the only way he can retain their ser-
l8o TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
vices. Whatever their prosperity in the past, at present
they are sadly demoralized their religion is a mixture of
pagan and popish superstitions. Their priests are not
unfrequently lower fallen than the flock.
Twenty-five years ago, through purchase and conquest,
the country was ceded to the United States. But absorbed
by the greed of gold, and taxed for the conversion of the
white savage on these shores, comparatively little has been
done as yet by either Protestant or Roman Catholic to-
wards the resuscitation of the old, or the planting of new
missions among the aborigines.
The Mountain Indians, composed of various tribes, are
pagan. The name Digger is given to those tribes which
dig into the ground for their dwellings. Having thrown
out the soil to the depth of three or four feet, they cover
the hole with poles, thatching them with boughs and
earth. They crawl into this den and live like so many
beasts. Dirt and depravity are distinguishing character-
istics. I met them first at Clark's Ranche, among the
mountains, near the Mariposa grove of big trees ; and
again, a larger encampment, in the Yosemite. They are
no longer dwellers in this valley only visitors. A few
are always to be found here in summer and autumn. It
is a favorite resort for fishing and laying in the winter's
store of food. The men are of average height, lank and
low-browed ; the women undersized, quiet, soft-voiced,
ever wearing the unimpassioned, aimless look of a drudge
a nobody. Their dress is a mixture of the savage and
THE DIGGER INDIANS. l8l
civilized chiefly the cast-off clothing of the whites, worn
without any regard to the fitness of things. Children and
half-starved curs, in about equal number, are trotting round
or rolling together in the dirt. The lord and master is
usually away fishing and hunting, whilst the squaw-slave,
if not sick or sleeping, is at work gathering and grinding
acorns. These with the pignon, a nut taken from the
cone of the nut-pine, constitute their chief bread food. .
Large sacks filled with acorns are piled on the top of
boulders or scaffolding, to keep them from unprincipled
pigs and donkeys. One of the women is grinding at the
mill a huge piece of granite fallen from the walls about
us. The surface is flat, with several cavities capable of
holding from a quart to a gallon. The acorns are first
roasted and peeled, then ground in these holes by pound-
ing with a stone pestle. Though not a treadmill, the
bare feet are employed to keep the meal in the mortar.
The stomach of an Indian, like the gizzard of an ostrich,
is proverbially tough ; yet there is one thing they cannot
digest the tannin of oak. This is removed by pouring
hot water on the meal, after which it is put into a wire-
grass basket, and mixed with water. How can it be
cooked? the basket, though water-tight, is not fire-
proof. Cobble stones are heated, and dropped hissing
hot into the mess. When cooled they are taken out, put
into the fire again, and, without brushing off the dirt and
ashes, returned to the basket. This is repeated till the
mess is cooked. It has an ashen look, not unlike oatmeal
1 82 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
porridge, but is less palatable, and productive of inferior
men. What shall they do for sauce ? Far away over
the mountains, within the crater of an extinct volcano, is
one of the marvels of nature Lake Mono on whose
shores gathers a heavy froth, in which a certain fly lays
its eggs ; when hatched, the Indians gather it up, wash
away the froth, and dry the larvae in the sun. This is
called Ke-cha-ve, and is sprinkled on the mush !
The Diggers also make bread of their acorn meal.
The oven is a hole in the ground, eighteen inches deep.
First, red-hot stones are placed at the bottom ; over these
a sprinkling of sand, followed by a layer of dry leaves ; on
these the paste is poured two or three inches deep. This
is covered by a second layer of leaves, more sand, hot
stones, and lastly, earth. In a few hours the oven has
cooled down, and the bread is taken out a shapeless
loaf, liberally mixed with leaves and dirt. Clover is a
great luxury. They pull it up in handfuls, eating leaves
and stalks, as well as blossoms. They fatten on it.
When the whites were fighting the Indians of the Yosem-
ite, in 1851, they captured the old chief Ten-ie-ya. He
soon tired of the white man's food. " It was," he said,
" the season for grass and clover." To be in sight of such
abundance, and not suffered to taste it, greatly distressed
this Tantalus, and he pined away. Captain Boling, in
command, good-humoredly said he should have a ton if
he wanted it. So a rope was tied round the old man's
body, and he was led out to grass, when he fell to
THE DIGGER INDIANS. 183
grazing with the gusto of long-stabled kine. An immedi-
ate improvement took place in his condition, in a few
days he was a new man. These Indians also relish dried
bugs, grubs, and caterpillars, and are very fond of snakes
and lizards.
Some of the tribes poison their arrows. They procure
a live rattlesnake and a fresh deer's liver. Having irri-
tated the snake, they hold towards it the liver, which is
bitten until charged with poison. It is then buried and
left to putrefy, when it is dug up and the arrow-heads
dipped into it. Well dried, it is a lasting and deadly
poison. A man or beast wounded with one of these
arrows, ever so slightly, will die within twenty-four hours.
It is said, however, that one may eat with safety the flesh
of an animal killed by one of them the poison of the
rattlesnake being harmless when taken into a sound
stomach, but poisonous when received into the blood.
Their belief, like their language, is not unlike that of
the Chinese. Some ethnologists claim that they came
from the land of the Celestials, by the way of Behring's
Straits. They believe in two Great Spirits the Evil and
the Good. They do not fear the Good ; therefore pay him
no attention. But fearing the Evil, they have for him a
very great regard. If he can be propitiated or outwitted,
the soul may escape to a happy hereafter. If they bury
their dead, however, the chances of their escape are greatly
lessened. Hence they do not bury, but always burn the
body, the nearest of kin having the privilege of applying
184 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
the torch to the funereal pyre. Surrounding the blazing
pile, making all manner of hideous noises, and giving way
to the wildest antics a very pandemonium let loose
they hope so to distract the attention of the Evil One that
the soul shall get safely away. When the body is con-
sumed they gather up the ashes and charred remains,
grind them to a powder, and mix it with the pitch of the
pine. Then, having first cut their coarse black hair within
an inch of the scalp, this horrible mixture is rubbed over
the head, neck and breast. It is the token of their grief,
and when worn away their mourning is ended. Filthy
and disgusting at any time, they are doubly so when
mourning for their dead. Do I turn away with loathing ?
" God hath made of one blood all nations of men for to
dwell on all the face of the earth." Do I despair of flesh
that has so corrupted its way? Jesus comes "travelling
in the greatness of his strength, MIGHTY TO SAVE."
CHAPTER XV.
THE GEYSERS.
HE traveller need no longer go to " high
latitudes " to see boiling springs of thrilling
interest. California, surpassing all other States
* of the Union in variety, as well as in sublimity
of scenery, contains a large number, discovered
by a hunter in 1847. They are situated ninety
miles north-east of San Francisco, in the County
of Sonoma, among the mountains of the Coast
Range. Starting from "Frisco" the name by
which the city is familiarly called we take
steamer across San Pablo Bay for Vallego, con-
necting here with cars for Calistoga, running
through the beautiful Napa valley. Calistoga the Sara-
toga of the State is charmingly situated at the head of
the valley, within the shadow of evergreen-clad moun-
M
1 86 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
tains. The town itself, owing to the carelessness or close-
ness of one man to whom it mostly belongs, wears a
starved, shabby look, in striking contrast to the exuberant
generosity of nature. Still, it is the resort of many, drawn
hither by its healing waters.
Five miles to the south-east of the Springs is the Petri-
fied Forest, in which large trees have been turned to stone,
having been entombed, it is supposed, some time in the
far past by volcanic eruptions. At Calistoga we connect
with stage for the Geysers. Foss, the proprietor, and for
many years the driver, is famous, far and near, for furious
but skilful driving over the most perilous places down
the mountains. Since a serious accident last season he
has grown nervous with the reins. On the mountains,
where danger is imminent, he escaped ; in the valley,
where it is not thought of, he ran against a stone, upset-
ting the stage, killing one person and maiming others.
He seldom drives now, but is devoting himself to fitting
up his home for tourists a lovely spot in Knight's valley,
five miles on our way.
Having passed through the valley we begin the eight
miles ascent of the mountains. Our progress is slow, but
not tedious. The driver is intelligent and communica-
tive ; on every hand are the " burrowing toilers of the
mine ; " every step broadens and diversifies the view ;
whilst the manzanita, the mountain mahogany, the flower-
ing madrona, the fragrant laurel, and the wide-spreading
chapparal are to us " companionship." Off to the right,
THE GEYSERS. 187
in the rear, is Mount St. Helena, if not the loftiest, the
loveliest in California. Tradition says that on its summit
is buried a copper plate, bearing an inscription in com-
memoration of some event in the history of its discoverers,
the Spaniards. At last we halt on the " divide," and look
back. The sight is v/ell worth all the climber's toil.
Spread out before us, well watered "even as the garden
of the Lord," beautified with carefully cultivated farms
and charming villas, are the Russian River and the Santa
Rosa valleys. Embosoming them on three sides, shelter-
ing them from north-easterly and ocean winds, is the
Coast Range with its soft and purple summits. Away,
beyond, seventy miles to the south-west, is the beau-
tiful bay of San Francisco and the waters of the
Pacific.
We may not longer linger over a landscape such as one
rarely sees in any land. The crack of the driver's whip
and the whirl of wheels down the mountain break the
spell, and excite very different feelings. The road is good,
but alarmingly narrow a few inches further, and we are
over dashed, it seems, to certain death. At first, it
takes the breath away. With half-closed eyes and quiver-
ing lids, half on and half off the seat, in a very unsettled,
uncertain state, not knowing where this Jehu, in his zeal,
is going to land us, we nervously catch at something, per-
haps the reins or the hands that hold them ; but we swing
safely round each successive spur ; there is always a safe
margin between the wheel and the precipice, and nothing
1 88 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
gives way. A persuasion of safety gradually possesses
us. We fix ourselves more easily in the seat. The eyes
are slowly opened in admiration of the manner in which
the " knight of the whip " handles the " ribbons." We
begin to enjoy it. The spirit of the steeds thrills through
the passengers. Soon we are in full sympathy with the
rush, and, all but impatient with the slowness of our pace,
are ready to shout, like the madman in the balloon
" faster ! faster ! "
Half way down we pass the small Geysers, near at
hand, but out of sight. The water is abundant and very
hot, but contains no unusual element save a small trace
of iron. They are seldom visited. Continuing our way
at the same dashing rate, we catch a glimpse, through
the evergreens, of the white gable end of a house. Sweep-
ing round a bend, the steaming horses are reined up op-
posite the Geyser Hotel. Facing the hotel, and running
up a quarter of a mile, at right angles to the canyon down
which we have come, is the Geyser Gulch. Its springs
number three hundred, and are spread over an area of
two hundred acres ; they are seventeen hundred feet
above the sea, and surrounded by mountains from three
to four thousand feet high. In the early morning the
steam rises hundreds of feet, and covers the canyon \ but
in the later hours of the day it has mostly disappeared,
dissipated by the sun. A Babel of sounds can be heard
at all hours, and some of them at long distances.
We lunch, change our clothes for coarse ones, shoes
THE GEYSERS. 189
for Wellington boots, then, staff in hand, start for the
Springs, a guide leading the way. A few rods' descent
brings us to Pluton River, running across the foot of the
Geyser canyon. When this stream first strikes the waters
of the Geysers it is cold, and abounds in trout; by the
time it has passed them it has risen to 140, Having
crossed the Pluton, after a few steps to the left down the
stream, we turn and strike boldly up the mountains,
directly into what is called the " Devil's Dominions/'
Whether the name is in good or bad taste is debatable ;
but this desolate region seems to have been dedicated to
Satan, and by many is believed to be of that wicked one.
In mythology it might easily be the mouth of Tartarus.
Before proceeding further we turn aside, according to
custom, to clear our vision at the Eye-Water Spring. Its
waters are covered with an oxide of iron, their other chief
ingredients being alum and saltpetre. They have proved
a pool of Siloam to some sore eyes. We are next intro-
duced to Proserpine's Grotto ; and, as far as I am ac-
quainted with Pluto's wife, it seemed a suitable retreat.
A few steps further takes us into " Beelzebub's Labora-
tory." Satan is a scientist, and no idler in his studies. It
is always class day, and a strange medley of experiments
is ever going on. Noise and fume.s fill the air. Some of
the odors are pleasant, and others not so pleasant ; the
latter are the same as those issuing from city sewers and
aged eggs. Water holding iron in solution comes in con-
tact with other water containing sulphuretted hydrogen,
190 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
forming a new compound, setting the sulphuretted hydro-
gen free ; this gas gives forth the abominable smell
alluded to. These waters boiled an egg in four minutes.
Convenient to the Laboratory is " Satan's Inkstand." Its
contents, sometimes used in the hotel register, are inky
black, and never run dry.
Within a short distance of this spot is a pure Alum
Spring. Five feet further is another spring of Tartaric
Acid, which makes an excellent glass of lemonade. Near
by, if unfortunately given to strong drink, the visitor can
be satisfied with a draught from " Mephistopheles' Punch
Bowl." Next the Bowl is what is known as the " Devil's
Kitchen." All is culinary confusion ; every pot and pan
is in use ; the furnace is in full blast ; issuing from it are
the usual sounds boiling, frying, simmering, steaming,
sputtering, hissing. I boiled a second egg in its water
in four minutes. A few feet above the Kitchen is the
Safety-Valve, letting off steam with great power. Climb-
ing as near the spot as the heat will suffer me, I fling dirt
and stones into the opening, which instantly spits them
out with wrathful vehemence. Unless a hasty retreat is
beaten, one may receive the rejected stuff back into his
face, dripping with hot water and acids.
Now, in the wildest, hottest part, we come to the
greatest wonder of the place commonly called the
"Witch's Caldron." It is seven feet across, and of un-
known depth. The water, black and wrathful, rises three
or four feet. At times you are enveloped in steam, un-
tHE GEYSERS. 191
able to see anything. A small cool stream is ever patiently
pouring into it its troubled waters, as if to soothe and
quiet them. In 1861 this caldron, from some unknown
cause, was emptied of water and rilled with steam. The
hotel-keeper, fearing to lose one of the greatest attrac-
tions to tourists, caused a stream of cold water to be led
into it. The instant it came in contact with the lower
cavity of the caldron a wild commotion ensued. The
ground, for several rods around, shook violently. In a
few minutes after, the cold water was thrown out with
stunning reports to the height of a hundred feet. In about
three hours after the cold water was shut off, the hot
water returned, filled the bowl, and has continued to boil
ever since. Its temperature is 200 Fahrenheit.
We now turn to a familar sound, issuing from the top of
a cone, up in the side of the canyon ; it proceeds from the
"Steamboat Geyser/' Through the opening, about two feet
in diameter, a body of steam is constantly ejected, suffi-
cient, if it could be controlled, to drive a large amount of
machinery. The noise has been likened to a " high
pressure seven-boiler boat blowing off steam/' I climbed
to the top and managed to get a hurried look into the
fiery mouth, as the wind blew the steam from me ; but,
without a moment's warning, it tacked right round and
blew a suffocating blast fair in my face. I staggered
down, " distance lending enchantment to the view." The
steam rises to a height of three hundred feet, but is so
hot on escaping as to be invisible for five or six feet
IQ2 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
above the opening. A few steps bring us to the head of
the canyon, where rising above us to a considerable height
is an imposing cone called the " Devil's Pulpit/' We
will not ascend it now, but, retracing our steps, return to it
by another route.
Reaching again the bridge over the Pluton, and facing
round as at the first towards the Springs, we turn to the
right up the stream. After a few rods we begin a second
time the ascent of " the mountain of fire." We pass on our
right, by the river's edge, the Geyser Baths ; these, as well as
some other parts of the premises, are somewhat shabby,
owing to the property being in a state of litigation. By
means of metal pipes connecting with the Springs, the
Baths are supplied with water, hot and cold, pure and
medicated. A variety of baths is at your command
shower and sponge, sitz and sheet, douche and duck, pack
and plunge.
Whilst yet in the stage, descending the mountains, a
clear and continuous whistle reached us, echoing through
the canyon. Just before us is its source, " Pluto's Tea
Kettle." Some genius, enjoying a whistle, but not wish-
ing to pay too dear for it, inserted in the mouth of the
Geyser a leaden pipe, fitting to it a second in the shape
of a whistle. The rushing steam produces a prolonged,
shrill sound, heard high over every other. Removing the
whistle, and placing the tip of my staff against the spout,
I involuntarily sprang back with a cry ; it was instantly
and fiercely blown away. A few feet further on is a simi-
THE GEYSERS. 193
lar spring called " Pluto's Signal." Leaving this and
circling to the left, towards the head of the canyon,
reached before by the other route, we come to what is
supposed to be the crater of this extinct volcano. In its
upper side is a noted spring the Indian Steam Bath.
Lying around are the rude remains of the red man's bath-
house. The Indians were wont to bring to it their sick,
sometimes long distances over the mountains. Many and
marvellous cures are said to have been wrought, which we
can easily believe ; if not killed, the patient was likely to
be cured. The temperature is 180.
A few rods further bring us to a point, projecting over a
deep, steaming chasm, called the " Lovers' Leap." Bad
enough are the pangs of unrequited love, without adding
a leap like that ; in classic phrase, it would be " out of
the frying pan into the fire." Happily, it is not known that
any one was ever yet driven to this verge of despair.
Proceeding on our way, we next pass through the " Lovers'
Retreat." A knot-hole in the trunk of a low bent tree, on
which the happy swain and sweetheart are supposed to
swing, is labelled " Post Office ; " it is a well filled museum
of curious cards and amusing sentiments. The Retreat,
according to the novelist, is, of course, a sheltered spot,
with a cozy corner, by a laughing brook ; in fine, highly
romantic, an elysium for lovers. The fact is, like another
Eden, it harbors the serpent ; it is the resort of rattle-
snakes ! I brought away the rattle of one, twelve years
old, killed in the vicinity by a man who, struck at, only
194 TEtf THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
escaped being bitten by the agility of his movements.
These reptiles are plentiful in some parts of the State. In
another section the guide pointed out to me a spot where
a party of tourists found a family of them at home in a
hollow tree. Setting fire to the tree, dry as tinder in the
rainless season, they soon heard a horrible hissing mingling
with the crackling of the flames ; a few glided through the
fire and escaped, but more, it is believed, perished within
their castle.
Continuing our way, a few steps further complete the
circle we have come again to the head of the canyon.
Beautiful type ! a brook of pure cold water is flowing at
our feet. Springing from a fountain higher up, swift to
undo the destroyer's work, striking the evil at its very
source, the stream follows it step by step all the way,
down its destructive career. Even such is the River of
Life : " Everything shall live whither the river cometh."
We now ascend the cone, obtaining from its top an all-
commanding view of the canyon, the hotel opposite with
its beautiful back-ground of mountains sloping to the
south, and covered to their very summits with a variety of
evergreens. Seated on the cinders of the cone we may,
at our leisure, dwell on points of interest as yet untouched.
The steam is rising around us. The marl is warm under
our feet. I run my staff into it, up to the handle ; then,
drawing it out, thoughtless thrust my finger into the hole ;
thoughtful, I jerk it out ; it is scalding hot. We are sit-
ting over subterranean fires ; and fires that are neither
far off nor slumbering. Are we safe ? On first entering
THE GEYSERS. 195
this fiery region a stranger hesitates. The spot is more
suspicious, seemingly, than the slime pits of Sodom. The
flush of fire and the smell of brimstone are disagreeably
suggestive. But led by our Virgil we wander through this
Inferno. After a while, excited by the strange, wild
scenes, and listening to the story of the guide, one grows
thoughtless of self, scarce considering his ways hardened
as through the deceitfulness of sin until with intrepid
daring the explorer boldly mounts the " Devil's Pulpit."
But there is danger. Earthquakes are frequent. Almost
anywhere you may run your staff into the soil and steam
will issue forth. In all directions hot water is bubbling
up, and angry underground rumblings are heard. The
surface is strewn with rocky cinders, burnt light as cork.
Persons living here since the discovery of the Geysers in
'47 say the ground has sunk forty feet in twenty-five
years. Heated waters and acids dissolve the solid rock
below. As decomposition goes on the crust goes down.
Occasional eruptions throw the cinders to the surface,
open up new vents, and give the whole region a disor-
dered, desolate look. In one place are hot and cold
waters issuing from springs but a few feet apart. In other
places waters issue from the same orifice, and seemingly
from the same source but essentially differing in taste,
color, smell and chemical composition. Different springs
hold different salts in solution ; when they flow together
there are violent chemical reactions there, emitting various
gases, depositing a variety of salts, vividly coloring, and
196 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
sometimes consuming the rocks. The rocks are chiefly
sandstone and silicious slate. The silica of the slate is
thoroughly bleached out by hot alkaline solutions, and
forms large deposits. There are deposits of alum, saltpetre,
magnesia, ammonia, epsom salts, tartaric acid, sulphate of
iron, and sulphur, red, white, black, and blue. Some of
these can be gathered by waggon loads ; sulphur espe-
cially abounds, and may, in time to come, be of consi-
derable value in commerce.
Singular coincidence ! whilst I am sitting in the Pulpit
taking notes, a moving shadow falls across the canyon ;
it is a scavenger bird. Bird of evil, it hovers over the spot
on worn and ragged wing, peering down into the horrible
pit, passing through the smoke again and again in search
of prey. This filthiest of birds seemed certain of finding
fitting food in so foul a place. " Wheresoever the carcase
is, there will the eagles be gathered together."
Can life be sustained in such a spot ? Can any green
thing grow in such a soil ? Yes : these boiling springs
are fringed with foliage and flowers, flourishing luxuriantly
the year round. It is said, I think in the State Survey,
that in the waters of some springs, 200 Fahrenheit, and
in others where the waters are sufficiently acid to burn
leather to tinder, a species of water plant takes root and
grows abundantly. I myself found a healthy tuft of
green growing on the very verge of that horrible hole, the
"Witches' Caldron. J> "Many, O Lord my God, are Thy
wonderful works which Thou hast done, and Thy thoughts
THE GEYSERS. 1 97
which are to us-ward." God renews the failing trust of
the traveller over the desert by showing him a bunch of
living moss springing from burning sands. The seed
wafted by His winds or borne by the fowls of the air is
lodged in the smallest seams of the rocky wall ; nourished
one hardly knows how it sprouts and spreads until a
generous foliage beautifies the barrenness. The ivy clings
to crumbling ruins. Flinty rocks gush with living waters.
Aaron's rod, dry and dead, buds and blossoms into
beauty. Life feeds upon death. "O grave, where is thy
victory ? "
CHAPTER XVI.
THE BIG TREES.
ALIFORNIA abounds in big trees. Here
common trees grow to uncommon size. The
oak is found ten feet in diameter, and cedars
[ as thick, but loftier. The pines are one of the glories
of the land. There are twenty species, some casting
their cones every year, some every other year, whilst
others cast them only once in ten or twenty years.
The chief varieties are the yellow and sugar pines,
both magnificent trees, usually of equal size, but to
the latter is commonly accorded the palm. It owes
its name to its gum, which in course of time becomes
bleached and sweet as sugar. It often girths twenty-
one feet, sometimes thirty, and rises to a height of 250
feet. The roots being all buried out of sight, it shoots
from the soil a clean shaft, rising without branch, and
with scarcely any perceptible diminution in size for 150
THE BIG TREES. 199
feet. Its cones are of extraordinary size, usually measur-
ing from a foot to fifteen inches in length, sometimes
twenty-one inches ; and have been found, said my guide,
even three feet long. These trees, covering thousands of
square miles, are confined to the mountains of the inte-
rior. This vast treasure of timber, as yet untouched, pre-
sents an inexhaustible supply for ages.
The red wood, a still larger tree, is confined to the
Pacific slopes. They fringe the coast from Los Angelos
on the south for hundreds of miles north into Oregon, but
are fast disappearing ; their excellence and ease of access
causing all supplies to be gathered from their magnificent
stores.
We now turn to the Big Trees proper, the Sequoia
Gigantea. They received their name in memory of one
George Guess, an ingenious half-breed of the Cherokee
Nation, whose Indian name, Sequoia, was given him in
honor of his having invented an alphabet used for many
years among his people.
The trees were first discovered, as in the case of the
Geysers, by a hunter in 1852. He was out hunting for
a camping company when he made the discovery ; filled
with wonder and excitement, he gave up the chase,
and immediately returned to tell his story. They laughed
at him ; he was trying to play off a practical joke it was a
Munchausen. Incredulous, they refused not only to
believe, but to go and see for themselves. To induce
them to go he resorted to intrigue. The following day
2OO TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
he went out hunting as usual, but in a few hours returned
in an excited state, saying he had shot a grizzly and
wanted help to bring it in. Believing the "bear story,"
they readily followed him, and were led to the Big
Trees.
The news of the discovery spread fast and far. No
plant which, I suppose, it is proper to call them has
ever attracted so much attention, or attained to such cele-
brity. References have been made to them in over two
hundred scientific works, whilst almost every newspaper
in Christendom has had something to say about them.
Though resembling very closely, in some respects, the
cedar, they are a distinct tree, and, at the time of their
discovery, nowhere to be found save in the Sierras. Now
growing from their seeds are thousands more in different
parts of the world.
The original groves are found in limited numbers, some-
what widely separated, from Calav eras County on the north
to Tule River in the south. There are ten groves ; the ear-
liest discovered, and perhaps the most widely known,
being the Calaveras. In this grove are a hundred trees
and moVe, within an area of fifty acres. In 1854, two
years after their discovery, it was determined to fell one.
The giant could not be cut down by the ordinary wood-
man's axe. No man could swing the axe half-way across
the trunk. It was bored by pump augers, taking five
men nineteen days and a-half. Being perpendicular, the
breadth of its base caused it to remain standing after it was
THE BIG TREES. 2OI
fully severed from the stump. It took two days and a
half longer to overthrow it, by driving in wedges with bat-
tering-rams made of logs. The tree was 302 feet long,
ninety-six feet in circumference, and sound to the core.
On the prostrate trunk a long double bowling alley was
constructed. On the stump was placed a printing press,
from which was issued, for a time, the Big Tree Bulletin.
Some one has made this estimate : on the stump could be
built a house of the following size parlor 16x12,
dining-room 15X10, kitchen 12X10, two bedrooms
10 X 10, pantry 8x4, and closet 4X2 quite a house to
be built on a stump, and yet there is room enough left for
a small garden !
Among other trees still standing are Hercules, the
Hermit, the Old Maid, the Old Bachelor, Siamese Twins,
Mother and Son, Uncle Tom's Cabin, the Two Guardians,
the Three Sisters, and the Pride of the Forest : the last,
one of the most beautiful trees ever discovered. The
Mother of the Forest, before she fell, was estimated to
contain 537,000 feet of sound inch-lumber.
The traveller naturally turns next to where lies the
fallen Father of the Forest. As is meet, this tree is the
biggest of all. It girths at the roots no feet, and is 200
feet to the first branch \ 300 feet from the roots it girths
fifty-four feet ; its height when standing is estimated at
435 f eet - Through its hollow a man can walk erect 200
feet.
I did not visit this grove, but from repeated conversa-
N
2O2 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
tions with those who were familiar with it, I have every
reason to believe that the above figures are correct and
sufficiently full.
We have not time to visit all the groves ; indeed it is
seldom that any traveller undertakes to " do " more than
one ; but we will make a careful visit to the Mariposa.
This, like the Calaveras, was discovered by a hunter three
years later, in 1855. It is fifty miles south of the Cala-
veras, and within a few miles of the Yosemite. Pro-
perly speaking, the grove is divided into two parts, the
upper and lower, covering nearly two square miles, and
containing 365 trees. The trees of the Calaveras are
higher, but not so huge. Taking all in all, the Mariposa
may be considered the most worthy of a visit. Congress
gave it to California " to be held to all time, inalienable,
for public resort, use and recreation." The State ap-
pointed a guardian, whose intelligence, courage and
enthusiastic love of forest life singularly fit him for the
position. Mr. Galen Clark, who lives on a lovely ranche
nestling among the pine-clad mountains, hard by his
cherished charge, entertains travellers with good cheer and
good conversation. We spend the night with him, and
the morning, after the sun has rolled away the fog, reveals
to us the bluest of skies the " floor of heaven."
Breakfast over, we are soon in the saddle, and off to the
grove at full gallop. A gallop over the mountains on an
October morning, through the grandest of pineries, and
under such a sky, all but touching the tree tops, is a rare
THE BIG TREES. 203
treat exhilarating. These pines are well worth a visit,
even if no nobler trees rose beyond. We are 6,500 feet
above the sea on mountain summits, and yet the soil is
deep and strong, giving growth to giants. Four miles and
a half brings us to the Big Trees. Every mule is spurred
and every eye is strained to catch the first sight of a Se-
quoia. I see a towering top yes, it is one of them
the hair of a Hercules waving in the wind ! Thrilled, ex.
cited, we urge our way down into the Big Tree Basin, and
with awe and reverence rein up before the first of the
forest the Fallen Monarch. His huge sides are deep en-
graven with the names of a multitude who seek immor-
tality, not by their own merits, but at the cost of the
world's kings.
There he lies, fallen greatness, but great in his fall, awe-
ing, overcoming, even in ruins. We ride up to his side,
but are still beneath him ; we dismount, and walk up and
down and about the prostrate form with growing wonder,
learning from the dead lessons for the living the greatest
may fall, and at the last lie side by side with the small.
Grouped around are a score of followers, still standing
steadfast pillars of state.
Leaving these, and passing with regretful glance huge
trunks which the fires have laid low and half consumed,
we come to the famous Grizzly Giant. Like Goliath strid-
ing forth from the Philistines, he stands alone. The fires
have fought him from below and the winds from above ;
still, there he stands, scarred, it is true, but the living hero
204 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
of many a hundred years. Sixteen of us, mounted on
mules, head to tail, surround his trunk, pressing close as
the gnarled roots will allow ; and yet it will take three
mules more to complete the circle ! Three feet from the
ground he girths over 100 feet; 100 feet high he throws
out an arm eighteen feet around, which running out twenty
feet turns up like an elbow, suggesting, as some one has
said, "a gladiator showing his muscle."
We now begin the ascent to the second grove ; midway
w e pass a small group, among them Winonah first-born ;
also the Faithful Couple ; betrothed from their birth,
straight and symmetrical in old age as in youth, ever cleav-
ing close, they have stood together through all their Me-
thusaleh years.
" God of the forests, solemn shade !
The grandeur of the lonely tree,
That wrestles singly with the gale,
Lifts up admiring eyes to Thee j
But more majestic far they stand,
When side by side their ranks they form
And fight their battles with the storm."
We have now reached a basin plateau several hundred
feet higher than the first, and in which is the second and
larger grove. The first trees we come to are called the
Diamond Group, a cluster of unsurpassed symmetry. Pro-
ceeding on our way, we pass a noble tree, off to the right,
named in honor of the Suez Canal Engineer Ferdinand
de Lesseps. Near by is fallen Andy Johnston, so named
THE BIG TREES. 205
because it " leaned to the South." Though fallen, he is
not spared ; knives keen as Naseby's Toledo blade are
fast cutting him to pieces. All about are trees of the
largest size, variously named, some after places and others
after persons. On a pleasant spot in their midst, the
guardian, Mr. Clark, has reared a comfortable cabin for
the convenience of lunchers and lodgers. The door is
ever open to all. At the front, issuing from the roots of
the Fountain Tree, is a spring of the purest ice-cold water.
Whilst resting here and regaling ourselves, as thousands
before us have done, we diligently take notes that nothing
be lost through fast crowding wonders.
Continuing our way, bewildered by the prodigality of
wealth displayed in the number and magnificence of the
trees, each succeeding one seeming larger than the last
or our capacity of comprehension is increasing we reach
the rim of the basin on which is enthroned the last of the
Big Trees the Forest Queen. Here you are struck by
a singular coincidence, undesigned, I was assured, and un-
til now unnoticed. The first of this grand forest is the
Fallen Monarch ; the last is the Forest Queen now,
alas ! widowed. Even Republics must have their Kings
and Queens. Between these two are gathered all the
Royal Family ; whilst surrounding them are pines, firs,
spruce and cedars a nobility of Nature well worthy the
Royal group.
Let us now return to the Lodge, rest awhile and study
these marvels more closely. The guide has been dis-
206 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
missed, followed by all the company save myself and
another, with whom I "took sweet counsel" sitting in
the shadows or strolling through the aisles of this sublime
temple of Nature. How old are these trees? From
1,000 to 3,000 years ; some were baby plants in the reign
of Charlemagne, and some in the reign of Solomon. Their
age may be arrived at by counting the concentric circles
of the trunk ; each circle is the growth of one year. Nearly
3,000 circles have been counted ; hence 3,000 years old.
" This," says a high authority, " may well be true if the
tree does not grow above two inches in diameter in
twenty years, which we believe to be the fact." The bark
is constructed on a different plan from that of most other
trees, being fluted like a Corinthian column. The ridges
are of a hard texture, while the spaces between are packed
with an elastic spongy substance of a reddish brown, and
very thick. I have seen it twenty-one inches thick. The
wood is soft, elastic, straight-grained, free-splitting, light
when dry, and red in color. It is an evergreen and all but
everlasting. Its tenacity of life is truly extraordinary. In
1854 the Mother of the Forest in the Calaveras Grove
was stripped of its bark to the height of 120 feet, and yet
it continued green and flourishing for two years and a
half afterwards ; nor, indeed, did it show signs of dying
until stricken with the severe frosts which prevailed some
years later. Seven years passed before it died. The tree
may owe its vitality and longevity not a little to a dark
gummy substance, of an acid taste, which exudes from its
THE BIG TREES. 207
body. This gum probably preserves it both from the
ravages of insects and the wasting effect of time. The
leaves are more like those of the cedar than of any other
tree. They are of two kinds : those on the lower limbs
being about five-eighths of an inch long and one-eighth
wide, and set in pairs opposite each other on little
stems ; whilst the other leaves grow on branches that have
borne flowers, and are triangular in shape, about one-
eighth of an inch long, and lie close to the stem. The
cone is one of the most curious and contradictory things
about the tree. Whilst that of the sugar pine averages
from ten to twenty inches in length, this of the Sequoia
ranges only from one to two inches in length ; it is much
the size and shape of our common butternut. Within
these diminutive cones are the seeds, about a quarter of
an inch long, one-sixth of an inch wide, and almost as
thin as writing paper, taking 50,000 to weigh a pound.
From these insignificant seeds spring the Sequoia giants !
There they stand, not fossilized, but living survivors of
a " mastodon age." " From one trunk you may hew a
hull larger than the " Mayflower " of the Pilgrims, or
the "Santa Maria" with which Columbus crossed the
ocean."
Taller trees there are, but of lesser girth ; trees of greater
girth there are, but not so tall. Take them all in all, the
Sequoias of the Sierras are the Anakim among trees
" great and tall" the most wonderful growth of the
vegetable world.
208 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
" These giant trees, in silent majesty,
Like pillars stand 'neath heaven's mighty dome.
'Twould seem that perched upon their topmost bough,
With outstretched finger, man might touch the stars ;
Yet could he gain that height, the boundless sky
Were still as far beyond his utmost reach
As from the burrowing toilers in a mine.
Their age unknown, into what depths of time
Might Fancy wander sportively, and deem
Some Monarch-Father of this grove set forth
His tiny shoot when the primeval flood
Receded from the old and changed earth ;
Perhaps coeval with Assyrian kings,
His branches in dominion spread ; from age
To age his sapling heirs with empires grew.
When Time those patriarchs' leafy tresses strewed
Upon the earth, while Art and Science slept,
And ruthless hordes drove back Improvement's stream,
Their sturdy oaklings throve, and, in their turn,
Rose, when Columbus gave to Spain a world.
How many races, savage or refined,
Have dwelt beneath their shelter ! Who shall say
(If hand irreverent molest them not)
But they may shadow mighty cities, reared
E'en at their roots, in centuries to come,
Till with the ' Everlasting Hills ' they bow,
When ' Time shall be no longer ! ' "
CHAPTER XVII.
THE YOSEMITE.
HIS trip will tax your time, your purse, your
strength your time ten days, your purse
$100, your strength till stiff and sore if you
: do it thoroughly ; but it " will pay.''
The Yosemite is 150 miles south-east of San
Francisco and thirty-six miles in among the moun-
tains, being midway between the eastern and west-
ern slopes of the Sierras a great gash, as from the
sword of a Titan, laying open their very heart. It
is a valley of wondrous walls and cataracts, and has
been likened to a huge trough sunk in the Sierras
at nearly right angles to their regular trends ; its
length seven miles, with a width varying from half a mile
to a mile and a quarter.
Its earliest Indian name was Ah-wah-ne ; its later,
Yo-Hamite ; its latest Yo-Semite, which signifies Big
210 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Grizzly Bear, the most terrible thing in nature known to
the Indian. The original owners and occupants were the
Ah-wah-n6-chees, of whom little is known except that they
were driven out by the Yo-Semite, a mixed race, made
up of the disaffected of all the tribes between the Tuo-
lumne and King's Rivers. Forced to fly from their ene-
mies, the whites, they took refuge on the east side of the
mountains among the Mono Indians, whose hospitality
they rewarded by stealing their horses and running them
into the Yosemite. The Monos, enraged beyond all
bounds by this flagrant breach of hospitality, came down
upon them like the whirlwind, and all but exterminated
them, leaving only eight braves and a few old men and
women. The valley has never been occupied by Indians
since, save transiently by a few in summer and autumn.
In 1850, there was much trouble between the miners
and Indians, on account of the depredations of the latter ;
whenever threatened with punishment, they would hint at
a rocky refuge inaccessible to the white man. The miners,
unable to endure their atrocities longer, organized them-
selves into a military band, and followed them to their
fastness ; this was in 1851, and these were the first whites
who ever saw the Yosemite. Its first regular visitors were
a small company headed by Hutchings, now of the
Yosemite Hotel; this was in 1855. Though their state-
ments were far short of the facts, as afterwards ascertained,
still they were so marvellous that men, for a while, classed
them with Gulliver's Travels. The place is now visited
THE YOSEM1TE. 211
annually by thousands from all parts of the world. The
time for the trip is from May to November. Occasionally
a hardy, heroic adventurer finds his way in over winter
snows. The multitude prefer the spring, with its flowers
and overflowing waters ; a few the autumn with its fruits,
freedom from crowds, and dryer getting about.
Starting from San Francisco, a few hours' ride on the
Central Pacific brings us to Lathrop, where we change
cars for Merced, sixty miles south. Arriving at the latter
place we spend the night in the Station Hotel, which,
built by the Road specially for tourists, is lacking neither in
magnificence nor mosquitoes. Amongst the guests whom
we met the next morning on the piazza was a well-known
ex-Finance Minister, who, judging from his cynical remarks
about the country he was in, gave good promise of being
as unpopular here as at home in England ; he was evi-
dently less impressed by the sight of his eyes than by the
loss of his supper. Arriving the evening before, " after
hours," the autocrat of the supper-table refused to unlock
the door, leaving him to fast or forage as he pleased. He
ordered, explained, insisted, but to no purpose ; the
white-aproned official stuck to his " red-tapeism " possibly
his Independence blood led him to take ungenerous ad-
vantage of circumstances to snub and starve an English-
man.
" All aboard for the mountains ! " is the cheery cry in
the early morning. Three large stages, drawn by four or
six horses each, are crowded with passengers. Among
212 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
my fellow-travellers are two foreigners making a tour of
the world : the one is surly, but sensible ; the other sweet,
but not so sensible. The latter, coming, as he did, from
the great commercial city of the United Kingdom, and
being a man not unknown in the sporting world, led me
to expect, at least, an average share of intelligence, but
with the utmost simplicity he expressed his surprise to
find on landing in San Francisco that the Americans
spoke English !
Who is. to have the box seat beside the driver ? If you
are travelling in the interests of the public, as newsprv^er
correspondent or prospective lecturer gathering material,
that may justly give a superior claim. If all should be
travelling in such capacity as may happen now-a-days
why then each must esteem others better than himself,
and act accordingly. One word do not demand the seat,
unless you enjoy being snubbed. Defer to the driver ; he
is king of the coach. A polite request will secure the seat,
if not pre-engaged.
Our way is across the San Joaquin valley, the largest in
California, once considered an arid waste, but now proven
productive in the highest degree. Two hours' drive brings
us to the foot-hills. The grass on these is a russet brown,
relieved by the evergreen of. scattered oaks ; this is the
first timber belt of the western slopes of the Sierras. Here
and there we cross canals, now dry, but in winter full of
water conducted long distances to the gold diggings. Far
away up the hills, off to the right, on a commanding
THE YOSEMITE. 213
plateau between lofty peaks is the retreat of the once no-
torious bandit, Joaquin, for whose capture, dead or alive,
Government offered a reward of $20,000.
We make Mariposa for dinner. By night we reach
Rose's, at the foot of the Chowchilla mountains. Every
rose has its thorn, but this has several ; there is no place
to sleep, nothing to eat, the man of the house away, his
wife sick, and it is ten miles to the next house, and up the
mountains too. Such was the alarming situation which
presented itself to the tired, hungry passengers, as they
poured pell-mell into the little front room. There is no
alternative ; we must go on, and at a snail's pace, for hours
until we reach the summit of the Chowchillas. Now and
then a semi-opening in the trees, at some turn in the road,
lets in light enough to show us we are missing many a
glorious outlook. Between riding and walking occasion-
ally startled by a suspicious crackling of dry sticks near
the way-side, which, in one instance, an old guide confi-
dently assured us was caused by the movements of a
Grizzly, making the less courageous of the company beat a
hasty retreat to the cover of the coach we while away the
hours, and work our way upward until we stand, panting,
at midnight, on the "divide," 5,000 feet above the sea.
By the light of our lamps we can see that now we are with-
in the second and most heavily timbered belt, to which be-
long the Sequoia Gigantea.
If we dragged slowly up the mountains, we drive
furiously down. Once in a narrow place, overhanging an
214 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
ugly-looking gulch, through which a river is roaring, the
inner hub grates against the granite ; we are not upset, but
a stream of fire is uncomfortably suggestive. Cracking
whips, hallooing at the horses, drivers shouting challenges,
swinging round spurs, thundering over bridges, racing at
a reckless rate, we are quickly at the bottom, having made
the distance, four miles and a half, in twenty minutes !
We have arrived at Clark's Ranche, from which we di-
verge for a day to the Mariposa grove of Big Trees. The
second morning, having reached the end of the stage road
by this route, we are in the saddle, and once more on our
way to the Yosemite. Crossing the south fork of the Mer-
ced river, which runs through this ranche, we begin
the ascent of higher mountains. Below, around, above,
rising from the very summits, and away through the open-
ings, far as the eye can reach, are seen the wonderful pines
of which one never wearies. The views grow grander and
grander ; the openness of the forest, and the all but total
absence of small trees, underbrush and rubbish, add much
to the grandeur of the scene. All goes well until we come
to the most dangerous part of the trail this side of the Yo-
semite, when we meet a man mounted on a mule. The
trail at this point being rocky and loose, the mustang of
the Englishman, in stepping aside to let the mule pass,
missed its footing and rolled over. The rider whether a
piece of good horsemanship or good fortune I hardly know
rolled off on the upper side, thus saving himself from
being crushed. I expected to see the beast go to the bot-
THE YOSEMITE. 215
torn ; but no it quickly recovered itself, unhurt and un-
disturbed.
We. have now reached the Mountain Meadows. The
air is getting cool. Here there is frost every night in the
year. Off to the right are summits from which the
snows never melt. At Paregoy's we halt, dine, and
change beasts for the last of the journey. Hitherto
I have been riding a mustang ; it had served me faithfully,
and I had been wise to ask for another. But to give
variety and breadth to my experience, in -an evil hour I
asked for a mule. " Yes/' said the obliging guide, " I'll
try and accommodate you." I fancied afterwards that
there was a sly twinkle in his eye when he said this.
After some manoeuvring the beast is cornered in the
corral, haltered and brought out ; she is plump and sleek,
but two broadsides of spur scars stir up my suspicions.
The Mexican spur, which is universally used, is a coarse,
cruel invention, the rowels being seldom less than an inch
long; there are no objections to my getting on; she re-
ceives me with a demure, submissive look ; naturally,
leisurely, she falls into place the last in the line. I am
impatient to see the Yosemite ; she is not. First, being
a Humane Society man, I feed her on the milk of human
kindness, but it is as " water spilt upon the ground," it
does not quicken her pace ; then I reason with her, but
she is irrational ; next, I dig my heels into her ribs, but
that logic lacks spur ; finally, driven to desperation by the
disappearance ahead of all the company, I spy a thicket
2l6 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
from which I cut a black oak rod, six feet long, and
browse her with that to within eighteen inches of the butt.
Cruel ! yes, to me ; I worked my passage. Let this be
" Mollie's " memorial she was a stubborn, selfish, thick-
skinned shirk.
The highest point in the trail is now reached 7,500
feet above the sea. We are in the third timber belt.
The trees, still of immense size, have changed to other
species, the silver fir and the tamarack pine ; the former
straight, lofty, a generous foliage of delicate green surround-
ing it in symmetrical collars. Their outward edge bent
gracefully down from the weight of winter snows, presents
a striking appearance. They are among the most beau-
tiful of all the trees of the forest. The foliage, like the
feathers of northern birds, comes low down, whilst moss
underclothing wraps them warm from head to foot. Thus
Nature, ever kindly and ever compensating, clothes her
care on these wintry heights.
" If thou art worn and hard^beset
By sorrows that thou wouldst forget ;
If thou wouldst read a lesson that will keep
Thy heart from fainting, and thy soul from sleep
Go to the woods and hills."
Something now I know not what causes me to lift
my eyes to the right. What is it ? It cannot be ; we have
several miles yet to go. And yet it can be no other ;
there is no mistaking that form ; you would know him
among all the giants whom God's, hands have made.
THE YOSEMITE. 2iy
Standing forth in the front and face of his followers, mas-
sive and majestic, rises El-Capitan ! It was meet that
my first introduction should be to the renowned chieftain
of the valley. In a few minutes more I am out of the
forest, and standing on Inspiration Point. Who has ever
described this first view ? Who can ? Various have
been the emotions and their manifestations. Some have
shouted, others have stood subdued and silent ; whilst
others, under the fascination of a mighty spell, have crept
to the outer edge, and gazed with awe down into the
dizzying depths. On this edge a too venturesome woman
once fainted, and had fallen but for her watchful
guide. A little lower down is Mount Beatitude ; from
this point the view is more complete. Hereabouts Bier-
stadt made sketches for his great painting of the Yo-
semite.
At first you cannot take in the wondrous scene \ the
eye is dazzled, then dimmed by the marvellous combina-
tion of beauty and sublimity. The Rasselas of the red
man is a reality. To one, the scene recalls the dome of
St. Sophia and the Suliman, as seen from the Bosphorus \
to another, Rome as seen from St. Peter's ; the Alps from
Lake Como, or Mount Blanc from Chamouni. But all
ordinary figures fail. To what shall I liken it ? Where
go for a comparison ? Fired with the sublime vision, the
imagination rises into higher realms, never resting until
in Apocalyptic light it beholds the wonders of the Celestial
world.
o
2l8 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
We begin the descent. The trail is tortuous and thril-
lingly narrow ; a stumble, a single mis-step may be fatal.
As if to allay our agitation and reassure our hearts, from
far below comes up the gentle murmur of the Merced.
Half-way down we pass the Hermit's Hut, a hollow in the
huge trunk of a living tree, where an oddity in human form
once spent several months, until driven out by inhospit-
able winter. In one hour's time, by a sudden backward
turn in the trail, we come face to face with the wall from
whose edge we had been looking down. Oh, what a
sight ! I gaze and gaze enchained to the spot. I
know it is an awful height, and yet I cannot measure it.
In another half-hour I, even I, am in the far-famed valley,
standing on the banks of the River of Mercy. Was the
view thrilling from above, it is overwhelming from below.
The feelings, though on a sublime scale, are similar to
those produced when standing at the entrance of some
grand old cathedral ; to take it all in to see all the em-
bodied skill and beauty of architect and artisan, you
must pass within and tread the nave from threshold to
transept.
Having entered the valley at the lower end, we will now
follow it slowly upward. The waters of the Merced are
babbling away, as if every tongue were loosed and trying
to tell the wonders through which they have passed. At
the right, on the same side as Inspiration Point, but
farther up, is the Bridal Veil Fall, the Indian Po-ho'-no
Spirit of the Evil Wind. To the red man these beautiful
THE YOSEMITE. 2 19
waters are ominous of evil. In the lake whence they
come many of his people have perished ; in the high-water
season some have been carried down by the raging torrent
and swept over the fall. They believe an Evil Spirit
haunts the stream, and that they hear the voices of their lost
kindred crying out from the troubled waters. An Indian
could not be persuaded to sleep by these waters, nor even
pass near them, unless on swift foot. The fall, forty
feet wide and 940 high, is finest when not at the full, its
distinguishing feature being beauty. Swayed by the winds,
the waters are ever changing their form now undulating
and now expanding into gauze, the winds weave them into
a long white fluttering veil, sparkling with diamonds, and
interwoven by a westerning sun with brilliant rainbow
belts.
On the other side of the valley, directly opposite,
is the Ribbon Fall - the Indian Lung'-oo-too-koo'-yah
Long-and-slender. It is dry at present, but its course is
clearly outlined on the walls.
Looking again to the other side, a little above Poho'no,
is a group of graceful peaks rising 3,750 feet above the
valley, and called the Three Sisters Wa-wa-le-nah.
Next these, rising 2,400 feet to the roof, with two spires
rising 500 feet higher, comes the Cathedral, Poo'-see-na-
chuk'-a Great Indian Store House. " How excellent is
Thy loving-kindness, O God ; therefore the children of
men put their trust under the shadow of Thy wings.
They shall be abundantly satisfied with the fatness of
220 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Thine house ; and Thou shalt make them drink of the
river of Thy pleasure. "
Opposite the Cathedral, with scarce a seam or scar,
rising 3,300 feet, is the most imposing mass of granite
known, El-Capitan Tu-tock-nu'-lah the Chieftain of
the Valley.
The waters have ceased their babble ; gradually their
voices were stilled until in the presence of El-Capitan
they are hushed to silence not a ripple, not a murmur ;
subdued and silent, like the woman of Bethany, in lowly
homage they wash the feet of their chieftain. It is the
vesper hour, and El-Capitan with bared head worships in
solemn silence at the gates of the Cathedral. Like Moses
in the Mount, he catches the glory of communion ; the
rays of the setting sun fall upon his brow in beauteous
benediction.
' ' Stupendous mountain !
Thou kingly spirit throned among the hills,
Thou dread ambassador from earth to heaven,
Great Hierarch ! tell thou the silent sky,
And tell the stars, and tell yon setting sun
Earth with her thousand voices praises God."
Next the Chieftain and rising higher, but less imposing,
are the Three Brothers Pom-pom-pa'-sus Mountains
playing-leap frog. Opposite these, rising 3,270 feet, is
Sentinel Rock Lo'-ya Medicinal Shrub ; on its heights
the red man has often kindled his watch-fires.
If these stupendous walls, separated a mile and more,
THE YOSEMITE. 221
were to fall towards each other, they would smite their
foreheads together hundreds of feet above the valley.
We have now reached Hutchings' Hotel. Hotel, stage ,
telegraph , and post-office and livery stable, are all embo-
died in this one establishment. In the short days of winter
the sun rises upon it at half-past one o'clock P.M., and
sets in an hour after. During this season there is a
mail once in three months, brought in over the mountains
by Indians on snow shoes. The hotel accommodations
are ample and excellent, except in the height of the sea-
son, when the " soft side of a board" is in demand, and
thankfully received. The walls of the rooms that aim at
elegance, instead of being plastered, are covered with un-
bleached cotton. Lime is not to be had ; limestone in
the geological strata is hundreds of feet below these granite
mountains. Cotton is cheap compared with lime brought
in on the backs of mules. The material of these dwellings,
all this furniture chairs, tables, stoves, everything were
brought in on the backs of these much-abused but useful
brutes. Pluck and pack mules have done much for the
Yosemite.
Our host, widely known in connection with the place,
is an encyclopaedia of the valley and its surroundings.
Soon after the discovery he and one or two others settled
here on lands that were never in the market. A few years
ago, as in the case of the Mariposa grove of Big Trees,
Congress granted to California the Yosemite and sur-
roundings, " to be held inalienable to all time, for public
resort, use and recreation.'' These early settlers strove
222 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
hard a fortune was involved to secure the lands to
themselves as personal property. Happily they did not
succeed. The State awarded them a generous sum ; but,
as stipulated by Congress, reserved to itself the lands,
only granting well-guarded leases for a term of years.
This wise arrangement will prevent the public being
fleeced by unscrupulous men, as the property, had it be-
come private, might, unfortunately, have passed from the
present proprietors into the hands of unprincipled parties.
When God gives to the world such glories of creation, let
them be for the world, untaxed by man's greed of gold.
We never want repeated the rascalities, the extortionate
charges of Niagara.
Mr. Hatchings, a gentleman of good judgment and
cultivated taste, has chosen his location well ; directly op-
posite his house are the Yosemite Falls, the highest in the
world. The first fall is a clear plunge of 1,600 feet; it
then flows in cascades 634 feet further, when it makes its
final plunge of 400 feet in all, 2,634 feet, or more than
half a mile. Niagara falls only 190 feet. The glory of
Niagara is volume ; the glory of the Yosemite, height.
The average depth of the latter is two feet, with a width
of twenty-two ; in spring this quantity is trebled. Then
the waters, waked from their winter sleep into fulness of
life, come dancing down the distant slopes the merry
" laughter of the mountains " and racing along the
canyon until reaching the precipice, then impetuously
leaping over the lip of massive granite, they break into an
THE YOSEMITE. 223
" avalanche of snowy rockets," chasing each other wildly
down the plunge, finally falling far below into a rocky basin
with the roar of a battle-field. Pausing here a moment,
as if to recover breath, they start again in the race, but
this time more cautiously in the cascades ; suddenly,
stirred by the old spirit, they make a final leap ; then,
like the chastened sons of sorrow, wise from the things
they have suffered, they flow quietly on to mingle with
the waters of the Merced.
Continuing our way up the valley, we pass on the right
a stupendous wall rising 3,700 feet Glacier Point Eri'
na-ting-law-oo'-tooh Bearskin Mountain. From this
height, as from Inspiration Point, is to be obtained one
of the most thrilling and comprehensive views. An artist
of daring ambition once planted his camera on a narrow
point overhanging the awful abyss, and obtained some of
the best views of the valley and the regions beyond ever
taken.
On the opposite side, to the left, are the Royal Arches
To-coy '-ae Shade to Indian Baby's Cradle Basket.
These arches have a sweep in the solid rock of 1,800
feet, with nearly half that in depth. By the side of them,
rising over 2,000 feet, is a massive pillar called Wash-
ington Tower Hun'-to the Watching Eye. Above these
pillared arches and resting upon them is the North Dome,
rising 3,7 2 5 feet.
At this point the valley, widening, shapes itself into the
letter Y ; having come up the lower part of the letter, the
224 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
trunk, we now take the left branch up the Tenieyae Can-
yon, called after an Indian chief captured in the valley at
the time of its discovery. A short gallop up this canyon
brings us to Mirror Lake, the Ah-wi'-yah of the Indian.
In the early morning, before the winds are up to ruffle its
surface, the lake reflects with magic vividness the sur-
rounding mountains, their outlines showing even more dis-
tinctly in the water than against the sky. In a small
skiff, half filled with water, I crossed to the other side and
cut a cane for a keepsake.
Rising from the edge of the lake, and between the arms
of the Y, is the greatest wonder of the Yosemite the South
Dome Tis-sa'-ac the Goddess of the Valley. From
some unknown cause the dome has been split from the top,
through the centre, down a perpendicular distance of
2,300 feet ; thence, at an angle of 70, it slopes to the
water's edge. What has become of the separated part
science has not settled, unless, falling across the Tenieyae
River at its foot, it formed the Mirror Lake. The south
half of the Dome, still standing, is as beautiful a piece of
native granite as ever the eye looked upon ; it is perfect
in form and highly polished by elemental action. Men
have essayed to ascend it, but given it up in despair. It,
like the summit of Koh Talism, the Mount of the Talis-
man in Eastern story, has never been ascended. The
Goddess of the Valley lifts her haughty head in unapproach-
able dignity and grandeur. The world wonders at the
genius of Michael Angel o, who reared the dome of St.
THE YOSEMITE. 225
Peter's 405 feet high. Lo ! a greater than Angelo is here.
This dome rises 6,000 feet !
" Fit part of
That Cathedral boundless as our wonder,
Whose quenchless lamps the sun and moon supply.
Its choir the wind and waves ; its organ thunder ;
Its dome the sky."
At the foot of Tis-sa'-ac let us rest awhile and listen to
a legend, from the lips of an old Indian, connecting her
with Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah, the Chieftain of the Valley. The
legend, in the highly poetical language of the children of
the forest, was first given to the public anonymously by
an Easterner signing himself " Iota." " It was in the
unremembered past that the children of the sun first
dwelt in Yosemite. Then all was happiness ; for Tu-
tock-ah-nu-lah sat on high in his rocky home, and cared
for the people whom he loved. Leaping over the upper
plains, he herded the wild deer, that the people might
choose the fattest for the feast. He aroused the bear
from his cavern in the mountain, that the brave might hunt.
From his lofty rock he prayed to the Great Spirit, and
brought the soft rain upon the corn in the valley, The
smoke of his pipe curled into the air, and the golden sun
breathed warmly through its blue haze, and ripened the
crops, that the women might gather them in. When he
laughed, the face of the winding river was rippled with
smiles ; when he sighed, the wind swept sadly through the
singing pines : if he spoke, the sound was like the deep
226 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
voice of the cataract ; and when he smote the far-striding
bear, his whoop of triumph rang from crag to gorge
echoed from mountain to mountain. His form was
straight like the arrow, and elastic like the bow. His
foot was swifter than the red deer, and his eye was strong
and bright like the rising sun.
" But one morning, as he roamed, a bright vision came
before him, and then the soft colors of the West were in
his lustrous eye. A maiden sat upon the southern granite
dome that raises its gray head among the highest peaks.
She was not like the dark maidens of the tribe below, for
the yellow hair rolled over her dazzling form, as golden
waters over silver rocks ; her brow beamed with the pale
beauty of the moonlight, and her blue eyes were as the
far-off hills before the sun goes down. Her little foot
shone like the snow-tufts on the wintry pines, and its arch
was like the spring of a bow. Two cloud-like wings
wavered upon her dimpled shoulders, and her voice was
as the sweet, sad tone of the night-bird of the woods.
" * Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah/ she softly whispered ; then glid-
ing up the rocky dome, she vanished over its rounded
top. Keen was the eye, quick was the ear, swift was the
foot of the noble youth, as he sped up the rugged path in
pursuit ; but the soft down from her snowy wings was
wafted into his eyes, and he saw her no more.
" Every morning now did the enamored Tu-tock-ah-nu-
lah leap the stony barriers, and wander over the moun-
tains, to meet the lovely Tis-sa N -ac. Each day he laid
THE YOSEMITE. 227
sweet acorns and wild flowers upon her dome. His ear
caught her footstep, though it was light as the falling leaf ;
his eye gazed upon her beautiful form, and into her gentle
eyes ; but never did he speak before her, and never again
did her sweet-toned voice fall upon his ear.
" Thus did he love the fair maid, and so strong was his
thought of her that he forgot the crops of Yosemite, and
they, without rain, wanting his tender care, quickly drooped
their heads, and shrunk. The wind whistled mournfully
through the wild corn, the wild bee stored no more honey
in the hollow tree, for the flowers had lost their freshness,
and the green leaves became brown. Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah
saw none of this, for his eyes were dazzled by the shining
wings of the maiden. But Tis-sa x -ac looked with sorrow-
ing eyes over the neglected valley, when early in the
morning she stood upon the gray dome of the mountain ;
so, kneeling on the smooth, hard rock, the maiden be-
sought the Great Spirit to bring again the bright flowers
and delicate grasses, green trees and nodding acorns.
Then with an awful sound the dome of granite opened
beneath her feet, and the mountain was riven asunder,
while the melting snows from the Nevada gushed through
the wonderful gorge. Quickly they formed a lake be-
tween the perpendicular walls of the cleft mountain, and
sent a sweet murmuring river through the valley.
" All then was changed. The birds dashed their little
bodies into the pretty pools among the grasses, and flut-
tering out again sang for delight ; the moisture crept si-
228 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
lently through the parched soil ; the flowers sent up a
fragrant incense of thanks ; the corn gracefully raised
its drooping head ; and the sap, with velvet footfall, ran
up into the trees, giving life and energy to all. But the
maid, for whom the valley had suffered, and through
whom it had been again clothed with beauty, had disap-
peared as strangely as she came. Yet, that all might
hold her memory in their hearts, she left the quiet lake,
the winding river, and yonder half-dome, which still bears
her name, Tis-sfr-ac. As she flew away, small downy
feathers were wafted from her wings, and where they
fell on the margin of the lake you will now see thou-
sands of little white violets.
"When Tu-tock-ah-nu-lah knew that she was gone, he
left his rocky castle and wandered away in search of his
lost love. But that the Yosemites might never forget
him, with the hunting-knife in his bold hand, he carved
the outlines of his noble head upon the face of the rock
that bears his name. And there they still remain, three
thousand feet in the air, guarding the entrance to the
beautiful valley which had received his loving care."
These .magnificent towers and domes, bearing their
beautiful Indian names, and rich in charming legendary
lore, are, in this utilitarian age, threatened with profana-
tion. Two youths from " Boston town " once wrote in
the Yosemite register thus : " I this day name the heights
west of the Yosemite Falls, Nevins Heights, in honor of
my father, David Nevins, of Boston, Mass/'
THE YOSEMITE. 229
The second wrote : " I this day name the heights east
of the Yosemite Falls ' Milton Heights,' in honor of my
father, Thomas Milton, of Boston, Mass." Directly under,
the hand of a close-pursuing Nemesis wrote :
" Ye gods ! to think such witless wights
Should with such names damn noble heights."
Retracing our steps down the Tenieyae Canyon to
where the valley branches, and striking across to the
other arm, passing Lamon's Orchard on the left and Gla-
cier Point on the right, we come face to face with the
South Canyon Cataract Too-lool-we-ack 600 feet high.
A few years ago, swollen by heavy rains and melting
snows, the waters tore away their rocky walls, hurling
huge boulders over the precipice down into the valley,
breaking the biggest pines into fragments as if they were
the merest pipe-stems. All around us are masses of
granite weighing thousands of tons infant offspring un-
missed by mountain mother from whose sides they have
been torn.
The trail threads its winding way among these granite
masses, along the waters of the main Merced. The River
of Mercy is now changed into a river of wrath. Recovering
from a fearful fall at the head of the valley, it foams and
rages down the declivity with vengeful voice. We have now
reached Register Rock ; here toll is taken and " drinks "
are dispensed ; I pay the toll, but dispense with the drinks.
The rock, an enormous fragment fallen from the walls, is
230 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
all written over more properly, daubed from the paint-
pots of the aspiring and ostentatious. The Americans
and we, alas ! are only too fast following their example
have a mania for painting their names and nostrums on
all the high places from Dan to Beersheba. It is to be
hoped that legislation, already at work, will be successful
in cleansing the country of this abomination.
Sending the guide with the mules by the round-about
trail leading above the falls, I take the short cut up the
face of the cliffs. The ascent is toilsome, but, helped by
a stout staff and stirred by the sound of many waters, I
come finally face to face with Vernal Fall Py-wy'-ack
Showers of Sparkling Diamonds. The waters have worn
the walls into a horse-shoe shape. On each side, pressing
close, grey and grim, rise the same stupendous granite
cliffs. Hugging the walls as if to keep at a safe distance
from the plunging, roaring waters, and yet creeping cau-
tiously, like human adventurers, towards the fascinating
fall, are clusters of evergreens. Directly in front of the
fall, the lofty brow bathing in its spray, the stalwart trunk
rooted to the spot in unwearied wonder and delight,
stands, and has stood for a hundred years, a solitary pine.
This fall is not as high as some of the others ; but, as
their Indian name signifies, they are very beautiful.
" Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood
Rolls fair and placid : where collected all,
In one impetuous torrent down the steep
It thundering shoots and shakes the rocks around.
THE YOSEMITE. 231
At first an azure sheet it rushes broad ;
Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls,
And from the loud resounding rocks below,
Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft
A heavy mist and forms a ceaseless shower.
Nor can the tortured wave here find repose ;
But raging still among the shaggy rocks,
Now flashes o'er the scattered fragments ; now
Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts ;
And falling fast from gradual slope to slope,
With wild infracted course, and lessened roar,
It gains a safer bed, and steals, at last,
Along the mazes of a quiet vale."
Continuing our way, we reach the top of the fall by a
wooden stairway fastened close against the perpendicu-
lar wall with iron bands and spikes driven into holes
drilled in the granite. Once a half-intoxicated Italian, in
ascending the old stairs, still there, but now unused,
moved to the outer edge to allow the passing of some
ladies who were descending ; he slipped, and perished on
the rocks below. Having reached the top, you stand on
a rock plateau, still within the valley, still surrounded
by the same stupendous walls.
Following up the Merced, a few steps brings us to Sil-
ver Lake a large rocky basin, smooth as glass, in which
the waters are held awhile, as if to rest and gather cour-
age for the fearful leap. We next come to a large granite
kettle, into which the waters are tumultuously pouring ;
it has been hollowed out by pieces of granite whirled
about its sides until they are worn smooth and round
232 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
as cannon balls. I saw one of these balls, weighing
more than a man could lift, as perfect in form and
finish as a work of art. A workman once dropped his
iron crowbar into this kettle, and when fished out, two
years afterwards, it was nearly worn away. We have
now come to Snow's, a house of entertainment. Though
1,000 feet above the lower valley, we are still enclosed
by towering peaks and massive walls, forming the grand-
est of amphitheatres a lordly place for the "lord of the
mountains " to gather his followers for feast or council.
Turning and facing the fall whence we came, our host,
directing our attention to a lofty plateau coming out to
the edge of the wall on our right, told us that deer and
bear were sometimes seen there, wandering up and down
the edge, seeking a safe way over. Once a cinnamon
bear it would have given us less pain had it been a
grizzly more plucky than prudent, attempted the de-
scent ; he got down with every bone in his body broken.
Once, while a party were dining at Snow's, a vast mass
of rock fell from the mountain just behind the house,
shaking the valley, and filling it with dust. The terror-
stricken guests sprang to their feet, some unselfishly set-
tling their bill, and some selfishly improving all the time
to their own account, getting out of the horrible place as
fast as their legs would carry them.
Occasionally earthquake shocks are felt, one occurring
a few years ago of such violence as to shake delf from
the boards and sleepers from their beds. Still judging
THE YOSEMITE. , 233
from the statements and the quietude of dwellers in the
valley, no serious evils from this source are to be appre-
hended, unless, as often happens, deliverance breeds in-
difference to danger.
In the rear of Snow's house, and overtopping it, is the
Cap of Liberty Ma'-tah Martyr Mountain. Why so
called I could not ascertain. On the top, which can be
reached from beyond, you see two shrubs ; well, they are
juniper trees measuring ten feet in diameter !
But the great attraction here is Nevada Fall Yo-wi'-
ye Meandering. It owes its name to a twist in the waters
occasioned by a curl in the lip of the wall. Its height is
700 feet. Though not the highest, it is considered by
many the most magnificent fall of the Yosemite. Its
waters flow down the wall four-fifths of the way ; then,
striking a smooth shelf of granite, they spread into a
broad belt, sparkling in the sun with myriad gems of
brilliant hues.
We are still unsatisfied ! There is a higher point and
more commanding views. " Excelsior " is written on our
banner. Following up the trail hewn into the steep sides
of Matah Mountain, we reach the Upper or Little Yose-
mite. Turning to the left, and passing close to the South
Dome, we work our way up. The air grows rarer, and
feeble lungs labor. The Chickadee and Chipmonk^are
left behind. The trees are stunted and sparse. We have
come to the end of the trail. Tying the mules to the last
tree, we finish the ascent on foot. We have gained the
P
234 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
summit of Cloud's Rest, 6,000 feet above the valley, and
10,000 feet above the sea. It is the highest point in the
near vicinity of the Yosemite. Below us lies the valley.
Higher up, but still beneath us, unseen and unsuspected
from below, is the lovely Lake of Tenieyae, sleeping in
sublime solitude. Far away over the mountains winds
the trail, forty miles to Lake Mono. Around us, in the
shelter of towering peaks, slumber eternal snows. Above
us tower the still higher peaks, Mounts Clark, King,
Dana, Lyell, Hoffman no longer in the far distance,
but now familiar friends. To the east, south and north,
far as the eye can reach, are " mountains high on moun-
tains piled." To the west, fifty miles away, spread the
beautiful valleys of Sacramento and Joaquin. Farther on,
100 miles, is the Coast Range, stretching north and south,
sheltering these fertile valleys from the rude winds of
ocean.
" I have," said a celebrated member of the Alpine Club,
" several times visited all the noted places in Europe, and
many that are out of the ordinary tourist's round. I have
crossed the Andes in three different places, and been con-
ducted to the sights considered most remarkable. I have
been among the charming scenery of the Sandwich
Islands, and the mountain districts of Australia, but never
have I seen so much of sublime grandeur relieved by so
much beauty as that which I have witnessed in the Yo-
semite."
I am satisfied. My friend and I add a stone each to
THE YOSEMITE. 235
the monument crowning the crest, in memory of those
who have made the ascent, and then we return to the val-
ley, having accomplished the undertaking in something
over a day and a night.
How came this valley ? What force or forces hewed it
out ? There are various theories. The Subsidence the
foundations were removed and the mountains settled.
The Fissure the mountains were cloven asunder.
The Erosive the mountains were worn away by water.
And the Glacial theory. In the far past the Sierras
abounded in living glaciers. They still exist, but in lim-
ited numbers and on a smaller scale. In the region of
the Yosemite there was a large cluster of these old-time
glaciers. The " wombs " vast basins wherein they were
formed are still clearly seen near the summits of the
mountains. Their natural outlet was the comparatively
slight depression and descent preceding the present Yo-
semite. From these basins, all the way down the canyons
leading from them, to the very verge of the great Yosemite
gorge, glacial action can be distinctly traced. The granite
is scored and polished as only vast masses of ice could
have done it. The main Merced, the Toloolweack, the
Tenieyae and other canyons poured their overwhelming
ice-masses into the common reservoir, hewing out the huge
trough of to-day. Not only along these canyons whence
the glaciers came, but all along the sides of the Yosemite
itself, are, to the eye of science, unmistakable evidence
of the glacial action. The Glacial period passed away.
236 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
The moraine which it left behind, combined with the
washings of later periods, has turned the rocky abyss into
a fertile valley.
In spring it is fragrant with the most beautiful flowers.
Sweet-scented shrubs and flowering trees grow not only
by the water-courses, but along the foot of the rocky walls.
The wide-spreading oaks remind one of the English parks.
The pines have root in as rich a soil as on the Sierras. The
cedars are lofty as those of Lebanon. Strawberries,
grapes, peaches, plums and apples grow abundantly. The
trees in Lamon's orchard were breaking under their bur-
den, whilst the ground was strewn with rotting fruit. But
the distinguishing features of this wondrous valley are not
the meandering Merced nor the gifts of its mercy, the
fruits and the flowers. The glories of the Yosemite are
its cataracts, falling from 500 to 2,500 feet ; its solid granite
walls rising, from 3,000 to 6,000 feet ; its beautiful domes,
resting against the sky these are the features which,
grouped together, make the Yosemite the most singular
and the most stupendous sight in the natural world.
"Emblem of Omnipotence !
Shaped by His hand the shadow of His light,
The veil in which He wraps His Majesty,
And through whose mantling folds He deigns to show
Of His mysterious, awful attributes,
And dazzling splendors, all man's feeble thought
Can grasp uncrushed, or vision bear unquenched."
CHAPTER XVIII.
ON THE PACIFIC.
^H ALL I return to the East by the way I came
across the Continent by rail or around
the Continent by steamer ? By rail will save
two weeks' time, but cost at least $50 more. By
rail will spare me the horrors of sea-sickness, but
rob me of its reputed health-giving virtues. By rail
will deliver me from the dangers of the deep, but
cheat me out of "crossing the Isthmus," with its won-
drous wealth of vegetation and life a hundred years
behind the times. Besides, if I return across the
Continent, may not my going over the same ground so
soon again, instead of confirming, confuse and mar the
magnificent panorama but lately stamped upon the me-
mory? I resolved to return by sea, and secured a cabin
passage by the steamers of the Pacific Mail Steamship
238 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Company for $100 in gold, which covered all expenses
for nearly a month's voyage of 5,000 miles.
In former days, before the building of the Trans-Conti-
nental Railroad, when the Steamship Company enjoyed a
monopoly of business, their charges were exorbitant, and
their vessels specially on the Pacific were cheaply
built of wood, with an eye rather to capacity than strength ;
but since the rivalry of the railroad, and the wreck of several
of their steamers, they have greatly reduced the rates, and
paid more attention to elements of safety. Ours is an
iron steamer, built rather for the turbulent waters of the
Atlantic than those of the peaceful Pacific.
The Company, from its " Rings " and " corruptions," is
attaining a more than continental notoriety. Deprived
of their profits by the overland traffic, and cursed with
speculating, unscrupulous officers, they have been brought
to the very verge of, if not to actual bankruptcy. One of
their Presidents, now the notorious Stockwell, aided by
one Irvvin, another official, abstracted nearly a million
of dollars from the funds of the Company a portion going
to bribe Senators and Congressmen in order to secure
increased Government subsidies, and the remainder, it is
believed, being appropriated to their own personal aggran-
dizement. The history of Stockwell furnishes facts
stranger than fiction. When a young man, he was at one
time a purser on one of the inland steamers. On one of
the trips, among the passengers were Howe, of sewing
machine fame, and his daughters, with one of whom Stock-
ON THE PACIFIC. 239
well fell in love. Throwing up his situation, and borrowing
money for the undertaking, he soon followed them to
Europe, where they had gone. He was successful, marry-
ing the daughter in London before they returned. Lack-
ing in education, but possessing plenty of " cheek," and
now money through marriage, he betook himself to Wall
Street as an operator in. stocks. Taking a fancy, from the
first, to the stock of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, he
succeeded, not only in securing a large amount of that, but
also his election to the Presidency of the Company.
While in this position he paid little attention to its duties,
but gave himself up to society and speculation. He was
feted and courted as the Beau Brummel of one and the
Croesus of the other. But while he was dancing and ban-
queting, the boats of the Company were going to the
bottom. His star soon began to wane. He strove to
redeem his fortunes by gambling in stocks, and by bribing
Government to obtain larger subsidies to the sinking ship,
but all in vain. Caught in his own " corner," he was
kicked out of the Company and out of society. In pros-
perity he was " Commodore Stockwell ; " in his decline,
" Captain Stockwell ; " in his fall, it was at first plain
" Stockwell," then " Old Stockwell " j finally, it was " Old
Stockwell," coupled with whatever opprobrious epithet
came to hand. " The name of the wicked shall rot."
Precisely at twelve o'clock, mid-day, we steam away
from the spacious, splendid wharf of the Company, past
the " Japan " since wrecked on the coast of China, with
240 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
great loss of life past a great variety of shipping belong-
ing to all nations, and out through the Golden Gate into
the Pacific. Once out at sea, and out of sight of land, we
turn to take account of our ship's company. The Cap-
tain and officers generally are courteous, and, as far as I
know, capable. The crew, composed chiefly of Chinese
just arrived from China, are working their passage to
Panama, where they are to be employed in the Company's
service. Being well officered, and Neptune propitious,
they succeeded very well. There are about fifty cabin
and sixty steerage passengers ; the latter chiefly Celestials.
The passengers are made up of " Greasers " Mexicans
Castilians, as they delight to call themselves, but really
degenerate Spaniards Germans, French, Italians, Rus-
sians, Americans, English, etc.
Here is an emaciated German, who years ago left the
East and came to California in quest of health. He
shifted up and down the State, finally settling in Oregon,
from which he is now returning to die in his early Ohio
home.
Look at these two men, bachelor brothers, for theirs is
a sadder story. Nearly twenty years ago, infected with
the " gold fever," they left their happy, boyhood homo
and came to California seeking their fortune, and had
seemingly, succeeded, as far as money goes ; but alas !
like multitudes more, in the race for riches, they have for-
gotten God. One of them, the elder, a consumptive, far-
gone, and in the care of the younger, is " returning to his
ON THE PACIFIC. 241
mother," as he said, " to be nursed and cured." He
speaks confidently, but in the merest whisper, of soon again
seeing the shores of the Pacific, and with restored health.
Deceitful disease ! Deluded victim ! As soon as the
chill of the Atlantic off Cape Hatteras strikes him he dies
dies alone with his drunken brother.
Here are several sound in body, but sick at heart of
the Golden State ; they are now on their way to South
America to try their fortunes in Chili, which is at present
attracting a good deal of attention on the Pacific coast.
This young Russian, on his way home to St. Petersburg,
is in some respects the most remarkable man among us.
He is a polyglot, conversing fluently, in their own tongue,
with all nationalities on board except the Chinese. He
is also well read in general information. Intended by his
parents for the priesthood of the Greek Church, he was
favored with every advantage of education; first at St.
Petersburg, and afterwards in Germany and England.
Having completed his travels in America, he is now
returning, after years of absence, not to enter the priest-
hood, but a clever, confirmed sceptic. He came into the
cabin on the Sabbath day, and listened with exemplary
attention and respect to a sermon on "Jesus, the Rest of
the Weary," but afterwards, in private conversation,
eagerly strove against the doctrine.
Mark these two young men, cousins, returning after a
holiday to their employment in South America. They
owe their niche on this page to the notoriety of their em-
242 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
ployer, who stole away from San Francisco some years ago,
in his own well-furnished ship, leaving behind innumerable
debts and gigantic frauds. He directed his prow towards
Peru. Being a man of enterprise and good address, he
ingratiated himself into the confidence of the Government,
and secured, with large subsidies, contracts for building
railroads over the Andes and elsewhere, and is to-day a
millionaire ! Let me not fail to add, that either from a
sense of duty or a desire to open a door for his return
perhaps both he has been paying his debts, as well as
petitioning for the repeal of the decree of outlawry against
him.
If I am to give a faithful portraiture of persons figuring
prominently on the voyage, then I must accord a place on
the canvas to an elderly lady partly our entertainment,
and partly our terror. She is accompanied she, un-
questionably is the head of the house by her husband and
son, all returning to their Kentucky home, after an absence
of a year spent in California. Having unwisely delayed
securing a state-room until on board, she now attends to
it, pressing vigorously through the crowd gathered round
the Purser's office. " I say, Purser " puffing and perspir-
ing, but with the utmost good nature " I say, I want
three state-rooms one on the sunny side of the steamer
for my husband, who can't stand the cold ; another, in a
quiet part, for my son, who can't stand sea-sickness ; and
the other in the cool side of the steamer for myself, who,
you see, sir, am pretty stout, and can't stand the heat."
ON THE PACIFIC. 243
" Yes, madame, yes ; certainly I'll do all I can to accom-
modate you," said the obliging Purser. Then, either from
necessity or depravity, he put the three into one room, in
the most uncomfortable part of the cabin. The old gen-
tleman, a philosopher in his way, accepted the situation
without complaining he had the sunny side ; but to the
stout mother and sea-sick son it was a terrible trial, and
unpardonable if a practical joke. However, she was not
to be put down ; tribulation can not subdue her spirits ;
she was an interminable talker a grievous affliction to an
aching head. She would talk blind, deaf to every sign of
distress. One night, nauseated and riled generally, I sought
out the most secluded, unapproachable corner on deck, in
hope that quiet and the night breezes might bring me some
relief. Alas ! she found me out, planted herself at my side,
and for one half hour hours to me poured out an un-
broken stream of talk ; then, suddenly checking herself,
she exclaimed in a half-soliloquizing tone, "Well, I do
like to sit and listen to other people talk ! " " Other peo-
ple talk ! " I had hardly uttered a word indeed I had
scarcely tried. I looked longingly towards John China-
man, minding his evening duties in silence, and thought
of the wise saying of his countryman, " Speech is silvern,
but silence is golden." Yet this woman was intelligent,
energetic, unselfish ; truly good, I believe, but garrulous.
Among the steerage passengers was a Chinaman, whose
general appearance particularly interested me. He was
well dressed in Chinese costume, wore a look of more than
244 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
ordinary intelligence, kept himself carefully aloof from his
countrymen, and evidently was not working his passage.
The Chinese, no matter what their social station or wealth,
take steerage passage, because here they can more easily
obtain their favorite food, rice, etc., and prepared as they
desire it. On addressing myself to this man I found him
speaking broken English, and eager to converse. He was
a merchant from San Francisco, on his way to Costa Rico,
in Central America, where he hoped to establish a branch
business. In the course of conversation he asked me if I
had called on the Chinese students who had arrived in the
city the day before our departure, on their way to be edu-
cated in the Universities of the Eastern States.
"No; did you?"
" Yes ; so did most of the leading Chinamen."
" Did any of these pointing to other steerage passen-
gers call on them ? "
In an instant caste showed itself.
" These ! " he exclaimed, in a tone of contempt, " no ;
these common Chinaman ; me Chinaman of tone ; me
come from Canton ; these come from country from every-
where ; these (with a shrug) common Chinaman."
After talking awhile about trade, he suddenly asked,
"You merchant?"
"No."
Then looking in my face in a half abstracted way, as if
weighing the evidence internally whilst gathering it, he
added with considerable assurance,
ON THE PACIFIC. 245
" You missionary you teach Jesus Christ ! "
Though our conversation had not as yet touched upon
religion, nor did my dress present the slightest approach
to the clerical, still with their accustomed shrewdness of
observation he had guessed my calling.
"Yes ; I teach Jesus Christ. What do you know of Him?"
At once and accurately he quoted " Blessed are the
pure in heart, for they shall see God."
In further conversation he evinced considerable know-
ledge of the Scriptures. He first acquired some knowledge
of the English language and of the Bible from the mis-
sionaries in China, and had added to his stock since com-
ing to California j but still he avowed himself a believer
in Buddha. Difficult to convert to Christianity, it is true,
and yet may not the truth in him, and in many of his peo-
ple, be like the leaven in the meal silently yet surely
working ?
The cooks, waiters, chaxribei-matds if Chinamen may
be so called are all Chinese. Bright, willing, easily
trained to tidiness, sprightly in their movements, minding
well their own business, they usually make excellent ser-
vants. The first mate found a good deal of fault with the
sluggishness of some of the crew, and occasionally used
upon the shirks a stimulus in the shape of a sudden vigor-
ous shove, which hastened their movements, but never
diminished their good nature. It must be remembered
in palliation that these sluggards were pagans, and pagans,
too, working their passage.
246 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
One day we were startled by the hurried ringing of the
ship's bell and a rush to the pumps and water hose. The
ship is on fire ! No ; it is only a regulation of the Com-
pany to keep the crew in practice. Another time the men
are made to practise getting out and inflating ready for
use the huge rubber-float life preservers, capable of sup-
porting each a score or more of persons. The steamer
is amply furnished with saving resources in case of fire or
wreck, and all are kept in good repair through the thor-
oughness of its officers.
All these precautions inspired a confidence which went
far to make the passage one of the pleasantest.
The fare is always abundant and varied the farewell,
as is customary, recherche and sumptuous.
Animal life abounds both in the sea and air. During
the earlier part of the voyage large numbers of gulls, the
species changing with the latitude, kept us company. As
we advance south, the gulls give place to the albatross and
Mother Carey's chickens, which revive the memory of
the "Ancient Mariner " and many a story besides of
sailor fears and fatalities. We see but one whale, which
having re-invested in a fresh supply of air by a few ener-
getic spouts, disappears again in the depths. The captain
on the Atlantic side told us that once when commanding
a war ship cruising the Pacific, they were accompanied
for several days by two whales, one on each side of the
ship, within gunshot. At last the superstitious sailors,
thoroughly scared, believing their persistent presence be-
ON THE PACIFIC. 247
tokened some evil, brought out their guns and fired into
them. The small artillery produced as little impression
on them as on a peat-stack the bullets burying themselves
harmlessly in the blubber encasing the creature. In cer-
tain latitudes, hundreds of turtles, some of enormous size,
are seen floating on the sea. Occasionally a shark shows
himself with " sails set " the side, not dorsal fin, standing
straight up out of the water. But the most interesting of
all are the flying-fish, in appearance not unlike small
herring. Startled by the ship's course, vast numbers
suddenly rise from the sea ahead of us, and go sailing
through the air, shining in the sun like polished silver.
Sometimes they mistake their course and land on deck.
The most beautiful sight is at night, when the sea is sown
as thick with stars as the skies above us. Calmly set in
the unbroken waters before, rolling in the wake behind,
swaying in the receding swells, dancing, scintillating in
the snowy foam flung from the ship's sides, are living mil-
lions of phosphorescent jelly-fish. For hours, leaning
over the vessel's side, we unweariedly watch the wonders
of God's " way in the deep."
Occasionally we sight the shore, distant from 25 to
100 miles. Though out of sight of land, we are never at
a loss to tell to a point our whereabouts. The science of
navigation has been reduced to such a nicety of calcula-
tion that in clear weather, even in mid-ocean, one can
tell within a quarter of a mile his precise place on the
globe.
248 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
At the end of a week, 1,500 miles from San Francisco,
half way between it and Panama, the steamer heads in-
land for Acapulco, on the coast of Mexico, where it makes
the first and only stop during the voyage. Just as the
mountain range skirting the coast is growing dim in the
dusk of evening, there rises directly over an isolated peak
what seems at first a brilliant star of unusual magnitude :
it is the light-house lamp, hung to guide the way into
Acapulco harbour. The entrance is very difficult of dis-
covery, strange ships having had to cruise about for days
before finding it. Not until we are close to shore does
the narrow entrance appear, running at first, not straight
inland, but parallel with the coast; then suddenly doubling
back upon itself a short distance, it opens out into a
harbor unsurpassed for safety. The harbor is not large,
but it is more than sufficiently spacious for all the shipping
that will ever visit it while the land is under Mexican rule.
Three hundred years ago Acapulco was one of the first Span-
ish marts in America. Tempera mutantur, et nos mutamur in
illis. As long as Mexico remains priest-ridden and
Bible-robbed, no Maximilian from without nor Juarez
from within will ever make her people what they might be
wealthy and powerful.
Shortly after our leaving Acapulco there occurred in the
city a terrible massacre of the Protestants assembled for
worship in the newly-organized Presbyterian Church.
Five were killed and more wounded. Incited by their
priests, this people, in whose veins flow a mixture of
ON THE PACIFIC. 249
Indian and Mexican blood, are ready for any deed of
treachery and violence.
The harbor, though as far north as 16 55', is, owing to
being shut in from both land and sea breezes by the high
mountain range running all around it, one of the hottest
places in the world. The clothing of the common people
is, in consequence, of the slightest and scantiest ; the
broad-brimmed sombrero, a cotton shirt wide open at the
breast, and breeches a short apology of the same stuff-
make up the tout ensemble.
There being no wharf accommodations for vessels of our
draught, we are obliged to cast anchor out in the bay,
half a mile from shore, in thirty fathoms of water.
Our arrival is announced by the firing of a cannon from
the steamer's deck, waking up splendid echoes and sleep-
ing citizens. Immediately there ensues on shore a wide-
spread commotion. Lights are flitting about in all
directions and moving towards the beach ; soon a fleet of
"dug-outs," each containing from two to five persons,
and laden with oranges, limes, pineapples, plantains,
paroquets, shells, coral, etc., etc., put out to traffic, every-
one striving to reach the steamer first and secure the best
place. In a short time the waters about the vessel are
covered with canoes carrying flaming torches, which
brilliantly light up the darkness, showing off with fine
effect the wares spread out in the bottom of the boat, and
the natives men and women swarming, smoking, shout-
ing. One in the stern manages the boat while those in
Q
250 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
front attend to the trading. They are such expert thieves
that not a r soul is suffered on board ship. The canoemen
understand the regulations, and come well prepared to
trade in spite of this restraint. Every boat is provided
witfra lasso, to which is attached a basket made of matting.
First, in broken English, all crying at the same time, they
shout up to us the names and prices of their wares. Staple
articles, for sale by all, have a settled uniform price ; but
fancy articles, whose value may be very uncertain, and
articles of which any boat may have a monopoly, are put
up at exorbitant prices ; they will cheat you if they can.
It is with them no trick of trade, but a settled, under-
stood principle. A bargain having been struck, they
dexterously throw up one end of the lasso, retaining the
other end themselves. The buyer having drawn up the
basket and deposited his money in it, they draw it down
and send up the purchase. The usage which insists on
payment before the delivery of the goods originated in
their being robbed by tricky travellers, who, having first
secured their purchases, refused to pay for them. Under
the circumstances, the wronged had no means of redress.
Occasionally it occurred once with us a dishonest
native will do as he has been done by get down the
money and then refuse to send up the stuff. Your pro-
tection lies in placing a mortgage on the property in the
canoe, viz., hold fast your end of the rope. Rather than
lose her lasso, on which the night's sale depends, the
sharp old hag, serenely smoking her cigarette, after
ON THE PACIFIC. 251
some ineffectual tugging quietly gives up, and fulfils her
contract.
The Chinese enjoyed the scene immensely, and though
ordinarily cautious of outlay, were on that occasion among
the best buyers.
Now and then a venturesome maiden, laden with wares
and eager to drive business, would, by standing on the
nose of the canoe and throwing up the hands, succeed in
getting John Chinaman who was only too willing to
seize them and drag her through a gangway into the
steamer. Having remained as long as she dare, she backs
out, hindered rather than helped by the teasing crew,
sometimes dropping into the canoe, and sometimes into
the sea. When the latter occurs shouts of laughter and
icheer after cheer go up from the canoes. You could hardly
drown one \ they float like corks and swim like ducks.
Whilst they were packed close about the vessel, and in
the midst of trafficking, the revenue cutter, pulled by a
dozen active fellows, and carrying the Customs' officer,
came, without a word of warning, crashing in among them.
Curses flew thick and fast from both sides. I expected
nothing else than to see some of the canoes swamped ;
but no they were used to such collisions. With ready
skill they at once cursed and cleared the way. The offi-
cials boarded us with pomp and ceremony ; . but this
mountain of show results in little. We have nothing to
land and as little to take on.
So undeveloped are the commercial resources of this
252 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
entire coast that a party of San Franciscans and others
who had taken passage for Acapulco, expecting to con-
nect here with vessels plying to the ports of Central
America, were disappointed, there being no immediate
connection and the future uncertain ; at doubled expense
and serious loss of time they were obliged to go on 1,500
miles farther to Panama, and there make what connections
they could back up the coast.
The Customs' officer returns to the shore, the Captain
and company return to the ship, the anchor is hoisted,
the signals given, the canoe squadron scatters in a trice,
and we are soon again out at sea.
The latter part of the voyage is much the same as the
former, excepting the increasing heat and the historic
associations of the coast and the islands on our landward
side. Central America, whose lofty mountain ranges are
seldom lost to view, is a country of fine capabilities but
badly governed, the ignorant and narrow-minded having
risen into power. Occasionally there are spasmodic stir-
rings of enterprize ; schemes for public improvement are
set on foot only to fail, and sink the people more deeply
in the slough of despond. Such was the fate of the rail-
road scheme with its eighteen million European loan ; the
money disappeared whilst the road remains unfinished
a mocking memorial of a people still under the enervating
influences of the mediaeval ages. The best classes are
leaving the country. The remedy is revolution revolu-
tion in Church and State.
ON THE PACIFIC. 253
At our left, rising in clear and beautiful outlines, the one
12,000, the other 14,000 feet above the sea, are the vol-
canoes Agua water, and Fuego fire. From the first
there once issued a deluge of water, destroying a vast
amount of life and property; whilst the other, 100 years
ago, destroyed old Guatemala, built at its base. The
Guatemala of to-day is beautifully situated forty miles
distant from the old city, on a broad table-land over 4,000
feet above the sea, with a climate of perpetual spring the
thermometer averaging 65 Fahrenheit.
Along this coast, and near the steamer's track, com-
pletely covered with luxuriant foliage gracefully bending
to the water's edge emerald gems set in a sea of glass
are the three islands, Quibo, Hickori and Hickoron,
famous for having been the rendezvous of the buccaneers.
Henceforth the foliage is abundant and beautiful be-
yond description. The air is soft and balmy, from the
breezes blowing off shore. In the evenings I go upon
deck, the awning which screened it from the scorching
sun during the day having been removed, and, uncovered,
sleep for hours with impunity. It is late on Friday after-
noon and we are nearing the end of our voyage. Every-
body is on deck and forward, each striving to catch the
first glimpse of the ancient City of the Isthmus. Mast
after mast rises to view, and soon beyond are seen the
city walls and turrets. The voyage of over 3,200 miles,
taking just two weeks and a few additional hours, is safely
accomplished, and we cast anchor in the Bay of Panama,
CHAPTER XIX.
PANAMA.
CRUISE about the bay and a visit to the
city, before starting across the Isthmus, will
reward us well. And there will be ample time,
for the transhipment of our cargo of teas, which
are to accompany us on the Atlantic, will delay
the passengers a day. The bay is a splendid
sheet of water 130 miles across its mouth, and
running inland 120 miles. When entering it we
were obliged to run 100 miles south in order to
round the long neck of land from the north en"
closing its waters. On the northern shore, a few
miles from the city, is Dead Man's Island, where,
in other days, was buried many a California-bound
adventurer who had perished from Panama fever. On
the same shore and nearer the city are several islands
belonging conjointly to the Steamship and Railroad
PANAMA. 255
Company. They are all beautiful, abounding in springs
and luxuriantly wooded ; but Flamenco, the largest and
nearest the city, is the most interesting, being specially
used for the Company's offices and employees.
As the tide here rises and falls thirty feet, the sloping,
sandy shore presents superior facilities for the repairs of
shipping. The Chinese employed by the Company are
lodged and fed in the huge hulk of a dismantled steamer
anchored off the island. They are quite at home in
their amphibious quarters, large numbers coming from
the great coast cities of the Empire, having been born
and bred on the water. Numbers of negroes are also
employed by the Company, but as they pride themselves
on being superior to the Celestials, abusing them at every
safe opportunity, the latter have refused to work with
them ; hence each class now works by itself.
Whilst watching the transhipment of the cargo I was
struck with the appearance of one of the check clerks, a
young man not long turned his teens. On acquaintance,
he proved to be a Canadian who had left home, as he
himself said, " to seek his fortune ; " more properly may I
say, to "sow his wild oats." He had foundjmisfortune,
until sick both of his service and associations, he would
gladly get back even to the long, hard winters of Lower
Canada. He was not the first to find that the rainbow
recedes at the fortune-hunter's approach, leading Ihim a
sorry race.
Anchored in the bay are vessels of various nations,
256 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
chief of which, to me, is the English flag-ship, Repulse,
commanded by Rear-Admiral Cochrane. The officers,
from Lord Cochranedown,are evidently of the upper classes
while the crew are a noble set. They visited our vessel,
and were frequently passing and repassing, presenting as
fine specimens of seamen as are to be found the world
over. My heart warmed strangely towards them ; and
when I looked upon the old flag floating from the mast-
head the flag of a thousand years the flag that first
freed its own oppressed, and then unfurled to shelter the
down-trodden and enslaved of every land I involuntarily
raised my hat, unable to check the tears, and scarce able
to repress the cheers that trembled to my lips.
When some of the men whom I met on shore, found I
was a Canadian and leal to the old land, they grasped my
hand with a heartiness which recalled Blind Milburn's
description of an Englishman's friendship " He throws
his arms around your neck, and holds on till the crack of
doom."
During the day one of the Company's new and splendid
steamers, having on board President Hatch, just arrived
from New York, and other American notabilities, tendered
to our company and the officers of the Repulse an invita-
tion to an excursion round the bay. A goodly number
accepted the invitation, and returned in raptures over the
most handsome manner in which they had been enter-
tained. A few of us, preferring a " cruise on shore," as
it was probably the only opportunity that would offer.
PANAMA. 257
secured a boat and set out. We were anchored in the
bay two miles and a half from the city, rocks preventing
the nearer approach of larger vessels. The ruins of the
old city, destroyed by Sir Henry Morgan in 1661, are six
miles south-east of the present Panama. As the heat was
intense and our time limited, we were unable to visit them,
but it is said they are well worth seeing.
The Panama of to-day is a walled city with many a
breach, but lays claim to 10,000 of a population. Unless
the figures include the lower animals, that mix freely with
a portion of the population, I cannot conceive where all
these people are. The city is built on a rocky point run-
ning from the foot of the volcanic mountain, Ancon,
which, covered with a luxuriant foliage, forms a beautiful
background. The stately cocoa and other tropical trees
rising here and there among the high roofs, and drooping
gracefully over the crumbling walls, conceal much uncouth-
ness and decay.
Going out of our way a mile and more to round a reef
we reach the common landing place in the city's rear, at
the foot of a flight of stone steps extending to the water's
edge. Ascending the stairs and issuing from a low stone
archway, we turn for a little to the left, where in a balcony
overhanging the sea is gathered a motley crew South
Americans, Mexicans, Spaniards, Indians, Negroes, men,
women and children, goats, dogs, cats, chickens, pigs and
parrots all are huddled here in this one narrow, noisy,
dirty place, and here they live, buy, sell and get gain.
258 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
And this is not an exaggerated specimen of the prevailing
population.
Turkey-buzzards, protected by law, swarm everywhere,
the roofs being often brown with them ; and it is well.
Were it not for these diligent scavengers the quick decay-
ing offal cast into the ill-kept lanes and alleys would soon
breed a plague.
The streets are narrow, and in their general appearance
quite in the old Spanish style. Shops are numerous and
the leading ones fairly stocked at fair prices. Panama is
a free port. There is one good hotel, chiefly sustained by
the better class of foreigners doing business here.
Ruined churches abound. Here and there the rank
vegetation, having secured a footing, relieves the naked,
roofless walls of some of their desolation. In several
crumbling towers are suspended weather-beaten bells,
whose silent tongues ceased to tell their story long years
ago. I entered one of the churches in use ; it presented a
strange blending of simplicity, tawdriness and decay.
There was no floor save the beaten earth ; a few plain,
rickety benches ; along the sides gloomy, greasy confes-
sionals ; on the walls old paintings, cracked and peeled ;
within the altars, images set off with the usual tinsel and
glitter ; whilst the roof, through whose openings the abun-
dant rains freely poured, was supported by worm-eaten
and rotten pillars. I was not a little relieved on getting
out safe.
In the heart of the city, facing on its principal, if not its
PANAMA. 259
only plaza, is the greatest architectural attraction in Pan-
ama the Cathedral. It contends with the Cathedral of
St. Augustine, in Florida, the claim of being the oldest
church on the Continent. The architecture is in the
Moorish-Spanish style, somewhat reminding one in its
externals, of the Mosque of the Mussulman. The walls
are of stone, whilst the roof and turrets, like the houses
generally, are covered with semi-cylindrical tiles, in the
old style of Southern Spain. After generations of decay,
and repeated efforts at restoration, the Cathedral is now
being thoroughly renovated. It is a vast and imposing
structure. Scattered up and down the interior, without
any evidence of reverent regard, but the very opposite,
are human skulls, rotted coffins, and boxes of half-decayed
bones, which have been gathered from beneath the floor
undergoing repairs. Through the good offices of a lady
friend, I secured from among the debris a carved wooden
book, broken from the gilded paw of a griffin. On its
open page, in still legible Latin, was written a portion of
the 1 3th chapter of ist Corinthians.
On the streets I met with Monks and Friars, evidently
strangers to self-flagellations and hair shirts, but swelter-
ing under a scorching sun in their long black, belted
gowns, and broad-brimmed beaver hats. I was assured
that few save women attend the churches.
In coming from the Cathedral, I was startled by a sav-
age uproar close by \ on turning to the spot, I saw a
drunken Yankee sailor, from one of the ships in the har-
260 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
bor, staggering down the street in charge of a cursing
Panama policeman. The sailor had stabbed the officer,
who, in turn, had laid open his head by a blow from his
baton ; both were covered with blood. The frenzied
crowd were screaming " Kill him ! kill him ! " the sailor.
And it seemed as if the maddened officer was quite of the
same mind, for he continued to rain down the blows,
horribly blaspheming the while. Just then some Ameri-
can ladies from our vessel, burning with indignation,
fearlessly rushed in among the crowd exclaiming against
the brutality, and demanding that the sailor should have
justice. The abashed crowd slunk back, 'whilst Jack was
led to the Police Station.
The Republic of Panama is built upon the sand. It is
subject to a violent change of " Powers," on an average,
once in every six months. Each new President enters
into office a doomed man ; one of his enemies soon suc-
ceeds in shooting him down, whilst busy History records
another Revolution.
CHAPTER XX.
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS.
CROSSING the Isthmus is not now what it
was in the earlier days of the California gold
excitement. Then it was in part by boat
over the waters of the Chagres river, and the re-
mainder of the way by mules over the mountains,
or through morasses reeking with malaria. Then
it was a journey of days ; now, of a few hours. Then
" eggs were sold four for a dollar, and the rent for
a hammock was two dollars a night ; " now there is
no need of rest or refreshment by the way. Then
the crossing presented the horrors of the " middle
passage;" now it is one of the most enjoyable
trips in the world. This wondrous change was not readily
effected. Central America, sluggish and impoverished,
was herself incompetent for the task, but she opened the
door to others ; it was persistent Yankee enterprize that
262 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
built a railroad across the Isthmus. The Americans first
paid the Granada Government for the privilege of building
the road ; then, with their own money, did the work.
For hundreds of years the Isthmus was supposed to be
an impassable rocky chain running through impenetrable
swamps ; but a survey dispelled the delusion, by report-
ing serious but not insuperable obstacles. European coun-
tries, anxious to shorten the route to China and the East
Indies, were fully alive to the immense commercial advan-
tage of securing a highway across the Continent, but
when appealed to they drew back from the gigantic diffi-
culties of the undertaking. True, France, in an impulsive
hour, accepted the scheme, made a survey, and actually
entered into contract for the construction of the road ;
but when she came fairly face to face with the work, and
saw the millions required to accomplish it, she beat a
retreat.
If the road was ever to be built, it must be by the less
cautious, perhaps, but more enterprizing spirit of the
Americans. The latter had also the stimulus of greater
interests at stake. There were not only general commer-
cial interests which they held in common with European
countries though not perhaps in an equal degree but
there were, to them, interests even more vital their new
possessions on the Pacific coast.
The voyage round the " Horn " was long and tedious ;
the great Trans-Continental Railroad was not then thought
of, except by the far-seeing few ; naturally, they turned to
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. 263
the Isthmus for a shorter way to the West, whilst the dis-
covery of gold, and consequent rush to California about
this time, proved an additional and powerful incentive.
Besides all this there came another and more powerful
appeal an appeal to a common humanity, which was not
made in vain. From among the thousands of men,
women and children constantly crossing on their way to
the new El Dorado, hundreds were perishing from fever,
which the slowness of their transit by that most malarious
" middle passage " was almost sure to bring on. The
road must be built, and immediately.
In 1849 a company was formed in New York, and sur-
veyors at once set to work _; they found the location of a
line even more feasible than previous surveys had led
them to suppose the mountain difficulty so appalling, in
the distance, when approached, proved hardly 300 feet
above the sea, whilst the entire distance across the Isth-
mus was only forty-eight miles. As soon as the survey
was finished, within the same year, the contract for con-
struction was let, but owing to circumstances into which
I need not here enter, work was not begun until the
following May of 1850.
The Eastern terminus, where operations began, is on
Manzanilla Island, in Navy Bay the island lying low on
its coral foundation, and separated from the mainland by
a narrow belt of sea. The ceremony of " turning the
first sod " was simple, but significant. Two Americans,
accompanied by a few Indians, paddled in a canoe to the
264 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
unpeopled island. Hauling the boat up on shore, the
Indians go before, clearing a way with their machetas
through the dense undergrowth, whilst the white men
follow with their axes felling the trees. " Thus unosten-
tatiously," says Dr. Otis, in his " Handbook of Panama," to
which I am indebted for valuable information, " was an-
nounced the commencement of a railway which, from
the interests and difficulties involved, might well be looked
upon as one of the grandest and boldest enterprizes ever
attempted."
But it is only when they actually put their hands
to the work that the appalling difficulties reveal them-
selves. The island, a slimy swamp swarming with ser-
pents, alligators, and millions of smaller but more pesti-
ferous vermin, sends up, without ceasing, the worst plague
of all deadly vapors. Against the malaria there is little
protection, but from the mosquitoes and flies they secure
a partial deliverance by wearing veils. Residence in such
a spot would be speedy death ; hence they take up their
quarters in an old brig in the bay. Fresh accessions to
their corps soon crowd the hulk to its utmost capacity.
Unable to endure the vermin below, they sleep on deck,
by night drenched with the pouring rains of the wet sea-
son, which has now set in. Added to these distressing
circumstances, the tossings of a restless sea bring on nau-
sea, all of which is more than the stoutest can stand, and
soon half their number are down with the fever, without a
physician, and without any place of rest. Still the corps,
crippled as it is, works on.
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. 265
The following month reinforcements arrive, when the
old brig is abandoned for roomier quarters in the hulk of
a condemned steamer, the vermin persistently keeping
them company. It is now June, the depth of the rainy
season, and the men are obliged to wade and work in a
horrible slime, a mixture of stagnant water and decayed
vegetable matter from two to four feet deep. At the close
of the day, drenched and exhausted, they drag them-
selves back to their wretched quarters. Though every
precaution possible in such a place is taken to preserve
them in health, yet they fall like leaves in autumn, con-
stant arrivals being necessary to keep up the working
force. Laborers from England, Ireland and the Conti-
nent, American-born and others, are employed, but all
alike are speedily prostrated. Large importations are
made from Ireland and elsewhere, specially selected in
hope of securing more enduring workmen. All is in
vain. Many, frightened by the fever, fled ; others, tempted
by the offer of higher wages from the old California Tran-
sit Company, deserted ; whilst a large number were speed-
ily rendered useless. Those who remained were sent
away to save their lives.
Another venture was the importation of 1,000 Chinese.
Their native food and stimulants rice, tea and opium
were brought over with them ; but the result was the
same as before, and even worse ; within a month they
were seized with melancholy, many committing suicide,
and others perishing from fever. Within a few weeks of
B
20G TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
their arrival only 200 were left, and these, like preceding
survivors, were sent away. It is estimated that the build-
ing of the road cost a life to every tie, or 1,000 men to
every mile.
Finally, as a dernier ressort, the Company fetch from the
West Indies a regiment of Jamaica Negroes ; these stand
proof against parasite and pestilence alike. One great
difficulty is now overcome, but others remain to be grap-
pled with to the end. The road having now advanced
some distance into the interior, it is no longer prac-
ticable for the workmen to return at night to their
quarters in the steamer ; so, hauling the material on
the backs of the men over three miles through the mo-
rass, the first dwelling is reared above the waters on
stumps of trees in the " heart of this dank, howling wil-
derness/'
The Isthmus is densely wooded, yet little or none of
its timber is adapted to the wants of the road ; once
cut, it quickly yields to the combined action of climate
and insect. The ties are of lignum vitse, and the tele-
graph poles a puzzle to the passenger flying past
are moulded cement. Men, material and provisions
all had to be brought from a distance. At first, in order
to secure speedier completion, portions of the track,
running across gulches and through swamps, were laid
on piles and temporary trestle-work. These portions
have since been, mostly or altogether, relaid on more
enduring foundations.
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. 267
In January, 185 4, three years and nine months from " break-
ing ground/' the summit was reached thirty-seven miles
from Aspinwall and eleven from Panama. The party who
commenced operations on the Pacific, simultaneously
with those on the Atlantic, had pushed their way over the
Plains of Panama, through the swamps of Corrisal and
Correndu, up the valley of the Rio Grande, and were
now climbing the western slopes of the Summit. " On
the 27th of January, 1855, at midnight, in darkness and
rain, the last rail was laid, and on the following day a
locomotive passed from ocean to ocean."
The road cost in round numbers eight million dollars
our magnificent bridge at Montreal cost six and a quarter
millions and up to one period it declared the largest di-
vidend of any railroad in the world. The specie carried
over it during the first five years amounted to over 300
million dollars, whilst the mail matter amounted to nearly
100,000 bags. Rates were enormous until the building
of its great rival Pacific Railroad. The rates have
since, I believe, been reduced, but the passenger fare re-
mains as it was $25.
The Panama Railroad was built at a fearful cost of life ;
but may it not be shown that through securing speedier
transit more lives have been saved than sacrificed ?
Aside from the safety secured by speedier transit ; the
felling of the forest, opening up thereby to evaporating
influence the damp, decaying vegetable mass ; the drying
up by drainage, or filling up by grassy vegetation, of mo-
268 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
rasses ; the partial cultivation of plots along the line all
these things, the results of building the road, have greatly
added to its health fulness. During the first four years
following its opening 196,000 persons passed over it, and
it is not known that a single case of sickness occurred in
consequence of crossing. Panama fever there still is, but
travellers are endangered only by delaying too long at the
termini, Aspinwall and Panama. None of our party
and we were delayed beyond the usual time suffered in
the slightest, except those who indulged too freely in the
tempting tropical fruits.
" Passengers will get ready for leaving the steamer and
crossing the Isthmus at one o'clock p.m. sharp." Such was
the notice, posted in prominent places about the vessel,
that met our eye on returning from an excursion to the
City of Panama. All prudent passengers had made their
preparations before going on any excursion. The bag-
gage is re-weighed, all over 100 pounds being charged ten
cents per pound extra.
Never strap your trunks in crossing the Isthmus, for
the Negroes in the employ of the road invariably steal
the straps, and everything else in the shape of light, loose
luggage on which they can lay hands. See that your
baggage is corded with well-tarred California rope.
Precisely at the time set one o'clock a small steam
tender comes alongside, and conveys us to the railroad
landing, in the north suburbs of the city. The wharf on
which the train awaits our coming is a floating one, 250
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. 269
feet long ; both roof and ribs copper-covered. Here all
wooden structures, unless thus protected against insects
and climate, cannot last long. Those who put off seeing
the city, expecting to do so at this juncture, are sorely
disappointed. There is not time enough ; besides, right
about us, we find sufficient to occupy the attention of
the most curious until the train starts. At the moment
of landing we are met by natives with baskets of
merchandise fruits,'shells, corals, trinkets the cocoa-nut
wrought into articles useful and ornamental, being skil-
fully carved, and some of it elegantly inlaid with silver.
Native women a mixture of Mexican and Indian are
squatting on the ground, their wares spread out before
them. With few exceptions, they are of average height,
straight, lean, and not without intelligence ; some are
quietly smoking their cigarettes, or daintily holding them
between their fingers ; sometimes, where side curls are
worn, they are perched pen-like over the ear. Nearly all
are dressed in slouchy white muslin ; the skirts of a few
being elaborately wrought, but draggled in the dirt all the
same. All appeared honest, and none seemed eager to
sell the latter trait a very general one in Panama, as far
as my observation went.
Before starting, an extraordinary ceremony takes place.
Since an extensive robbery committed on the cars some
years ago by a band of native raiders, a detachment of
soldiers is placed to guard each train at starting. After
considerable manoeuvring and shouting, the officers
270 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
repeatedly passing up and down the line to see that each
man fronts right and toes the mark, they are finally ar-
ranged in lines one on each side of the train. Now
and then for they kept guard over us a full half-hour
the officers would stride down the lines to reverse some
gun wrong end down, to order up some head, or stop this
unsoldierly fellow from stuffing himself with bananas
from an old woman's basket. Everything possible in
dress and accoutrements is done to give them an impos-
ing appearance a stiff, high hat, with blazing rosette
shooting up in front ; close-fitting black cloth coat,
trimmed with scarlet and well padded in front ; heavy wide-
spreading epaulettes, and big brass buttons, the wonder
and delight of all boys ; swords that would get between
their short legs ; and ancient, awful muskets. But all is in
vain ; in spite of fine feathers, the daw is a daw still. No
man nor monarchy can grow imperial oaks from scraggy
shrubs. Neither dress nor drill can ever make a noble-
looking soldier out of a citizen of the Panama Republic
if those whom I saw were fair specimens.
Gliding out from between our guard, we are soon in
the midst of scenes such as are to be found only in this
intertropical world. The air, refreshed by recent rains,
and the sun, shut out by lingering clouds, unite to make
the day most favorable ; whilst the cool, cane-seated
cars, wide open on the sides, and running at the rate of
only fifteen miles an hour, with frequent stoppages, give
us excellent opportunities for sight-seeing. On our left
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. 27!
we leave behind Mount Ancon, while to the right there
rises in the distance the Hill of the Buccaneers, on
whose heights Morgan, on his marauding march across
the Isthmus, pitched his tent the night previous to
his pillage of Panama. Clusters of Negro huts are found
all along the line ; they are built of bamboo rods placed
upright in the ground, their interstices either open or filled
with a mixture of mud and cow-dung, whilst the four-sided
roof, steep to shed the heavy rains, is thickly thatched
with the huge leaves of the palm. There is but one room,
few furnishings, and no floor save earth, as far as we could
see in flying past, or by close inspection at the stations.
The occupants lounge and sleep, not in beds but in ham-
mocks, which certainly are a great improvement on the
former, being cooler, less in the way, and out of reach of
vermin. If there be a loft to the hut, which is not usual,
the ascent is not by stairs, but by an upright pole in the
centre, deeply notched the same as may sometimes be
seen between decks leading from the vessel's hatchway.
Pigs, dogs and Negroes dwell together on terms of equal-
ity ; the pigs are either indoors or wallowing in the mire
without ; whilst the dogs and the darkies are to the fore,
ranged in line along the track, the women wearing heavily
flounced frocks of limp muslin, off the shoulders and down
in the dirt, and the picaninnies naked as they were born.
The laws regulating the possession of landed property
were, and may yet be, very peculiar. The Isthmus was
the paradise of squatters. Each was entitled to all the
272 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
land, not already taken up, which could be clearly seen
from any one given point.
Immediately after leaving Panama we enter Paraiso
Paradise so called from its exceeding beauty, and from
the vast vegetable wealth which nature has poured into its
plains a very lap of plenty ; it is shut in and sentinelled
by high hills clothed in garments of the richet green.
The stations, about four miles apart, are important, not
from local trade or travel, of which there is neither worthy
the name, but from the close and careful oversight which
they secure to the road. The danger from floods is great,
the rains sometimes, in a single night, raising the waters
in the gulches thirty feet, turning the streamlet into a
resistless torrent. Natives furnished with machetas, a
huge knife or cleaver, are kept employed cutting away
the vegetation that grows up about the track with amazing
rapidity. The cherished macheta is to the native what
both axe and sword are to others ; with it he both does
his work and fights his battles.
On remarking the American look of the station-
houses, I was told they were imported ready-made from
the United States, and put together on the ground. Num-
bers of them appeared, and were, I believe, unoccupied,
the American occupants having left, unable to endure a
continuous residence in the climate, whilst the care of
the road was committed for a season to other hands. In
some instances considerable care and taste were displayed
in the laying out of the grounds, and the cultivation of
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS* 273
flowers and trees. Here nature needs little nursing, but
plenty of pruning.
A great variety of vegetables and fruits may be grown
on the Isthmus, but what we saw along the road were
principally plantains and oranges, and these were to be
had in abundance. The tall, graceful cocoa, laden with
nuts, was growing in some of the gardens. The sensitive
plant is found growing everywhere in the greatest pro-
fusion. Several times, on stopping, we left the cars to
examine its singular habits. Startled at our approach,
sensitive even to our presence, its delicate, fern-like leaves
shrink from the touch, fold themselves together, and lie
close against the stem until the unwelcome visitor is gone.
Before the building of the road the crossing was alive
with birds, beasts and reptiles peculiar to the tropics.
They still abound, but have mostly retired into the in-
terior. Many of these creatures, rare and curious, would
well repay a careful study ; but a general description is
not within the scope of this volume, which is a handful of
gleanings rather than a store-house of sheaves. I may
however, speak of one of the greatest ornithological curi-
osities of the Isthmus the toucan. This bird was called
by the early Spanish missionaries, " Dios te de " God
gives it thee because of its strange motions over the
water when drinking a motion which they were quick to
construe into the sign of the cross. It is the size of the
common pigeon, with a scarlet breast and a saw-edged
bill about six inches long. When feeding, it picks up
2/4 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
the food on the point of its beak, tosses it into the air,
and, on coming down, catches it deep in the throat. A
few monkeys and parrots may be seen about the stations,
and very frequently an alligator lazily floating in the
rivers, looking, in the distance, like a weather-beaten log.
The iguana, an ugly monster of the lizard tribe, growing to
the length of six feet, is a great delicacy with the negroes,
its flesh, like the turtle's, being tender and juicy. The
eggs of the female are dainty morsels about the size of a
robin's egg, with a yellow, shining shell, shrivelled when
dry.
But the greatest attraction in crossing the Isthmus, and
that of which the tourist will see most, is the abounding,
marvellous vegetable life. The limits of this volume, all
but reached, force me reluctantly to reject many " notes"
on the vegetation, and confine myself to a few of the more
striking varieties. Chief among the grasses, its tall and
graceful form claiming company and rank with the higher
orders of vegetation, is the well-known bamboo.
Among bushes the mangrove is chief, and grows in the
greatest profusion and perfection about the swamps skirt-
ing the shores of Navy Bay. Those on the shores overhang-
ing the sea droop deep into the water, and support on
their branches immense clusters of Crustacea, the size of
small oysters ; they are said to be very palatable. The man-
grove growing inland shoots its drooping branches deep
into the slimy soil, where, taking root, it sends up other
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. 275
shoots, spreading, strengthening, interlacing, until there is
formed a vast, impenetrable tangle of wondrous luxuriance.
The cedro and espabe, for size chief among trees, rise
limbless for 100 feet ; then, Briareus-like, throw out a
hundred arms which support a luxuriant growth of foli-
age, often 100 feet in diameter; they look like the huge
umbrellas of tropical Titans. From the trunk of these trees
the natives make their " dug-outs," .which are sometimes
of twenty tons burden.
But queen among the trees for grace, beauty and use-
fulness is the palm, of which over twenty varieties have
already been discovered growing in the Isthmian forest.
There is the low variety, with large stumpy trunk, growing
in the swamps, and sending out leaves of the marvellous
length of eighteen feet. Other varieties, tall and slender,
grow in great profusion. The ivory palm yields the
" vegetable ivory " so well known all over the world.
From the membranous covering enclosing the flower or
fruit of the glove palm, is obtained a ready-made sac,
capable of holding half a bushel. From the sap of the
wine palm is distilled an intoxicating liquor. The cab-
bage palm sends forth from its top tender shoots, in fla-
vor and nutriment not unlike the vegetable after which
it is named. From other species are manufactured sugar,
sago, cloth and various domestic utensils, whilst their
trunks and leaves furnish the chief materials from which
are constructed the huts of the natives.
Nature, as if rejoicing in her resources, and delighting
276 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
to show the world what she can both do and endure, has
given birth to a multitude of parasites not only given
birth to them, but nurses them into marvellous maturity.
Whichever way you look there they are, shameless and
greedy, creeping, twining, climbing, hanging, always
hanging mercilessly on. Frequently several different
species will fasten, vampire-like, to the same support, and
intertwining, like serpents in conspiracy to strangle, sel-
dom relax their hold until the life of the unfortunate vic-
tim is either sucked out or smothered. Even the largest,
thriftiest trees yield at last, but they are sometimes up-
held and hidden by the well-conditioned parasite, as if it
would fain conceal the rotten wreck the work of its own
greed and treachery. Some species, less selfish, by way
of compensation bear beautiful flowers. Dropping their
seed, it is said, in the ordure of birds deposited on the
limbs of trees, they take root and fasten themselves
securely to the branches ; then, thread-like vines, they
descend without leaf or tendril, reserving all their forces
for one final effort, throwing out at the last from the tip
downward a trumpet-shaped flower of exquisite beauty.
Surrounded by the most gorgeous settings of green,
and securely suspended from impressive heights, some-
times gracefully swaying in the winds, they are a novelty in
nature of surpassing loveliness ; and all this wealth of
wonder and beauty generous Nature opens out before our
eyes along one of the world's highways.
Other flowers there are fuschias, convolvuli, and the
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS. 277
sacred passion flower ; also flowering grasses, flowering
shrubs, flowering trees, some brilliant and some fragrant,
and some both brilliant and fragrant ; always blooming in
the everlasting summer, but reaching their greatest glory in
the wet season between May and October, when, scat-
tered under foot in the wildest profusion, and festooning
pillar, arch and dome of luxuriant green, there is present-
ed one of the most gorgeous scenes imaginable.
But there is one flower, the rarest, the loveliest of all,
upon which we cast our last and lingering look Flor del
Espiritu Santo the Flower of the Holy Ghost. It, like
many other objects in the New World, received its name
from the early Spanish missionaries. Inflamed with their
religion, superstitious to a degree, their ardent poetical na-
ture fertile of fancies, it is not surprising that when they
looked upon this strange flower, so strikingly suggestive,
they should have bowed before it, reverently calling it
what they did. To this day the Indian nurtured in their
faith regards it with an awe akin to that which thrilled
the ancient Hebrew as from a distance he gazed upon the
veiled Ark of the Covenant. The Indian holds sacred
the very ground on which this flower grows, and the air
laden with its perfume. BarK
It is a bulbous plant, rising as high as seven feet and
throwing out lance-shaped leaves in pairs. The flower,
of the lily type and of snowy whiteness, is richly fra-
grant. Within it becoming cabinet to hold so rich a
jewel is a drooping dove, its exquisite wings half unfold-
278 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
ed at the sides, the head drawn nestling down, whilst the
tiny bill, delicately tinged with carmine, rests against the
alabaster breast. The resemblance is perfect. Human
skill could never match it. The Power that " garnished
the heavens " painted this. And yet how strange ! this
fairest of flowers, this sweetest of symbols, like the Rose of
Sharon, springs from the lowliest spots decayed wood in
marshy ground. It was long jealously guarded by the
natives ; foreigners could secure them only by overcom-
ing many difficulties. Now they are easily obtained at
low prices, and though extremely delicate, will, with proper
care, live and bloom in every land.
CHAPTER XXI.
ON THE ATLANTIC.
is a great trial to leave one's country when
you have to cross the sea/' said Madame de
Stael. Some may say more it is a great
trial to return to one's country when you have to
cross the sea. Our voyage on the Atlantic may all
be put into two words distress and deliverance.
In the dusk of a Saturday evening, under a sky
betokening a restless sea, we rolled along the
front street of Aspinwall, and out upon the long,
covered wharf of the Pacific Mail Steamship
Company, stopping, finally, alongside the " Colon"
twin steamer to the " Granada," by which we
had voyaged on the Pacific. At midnight amidst gloom
and pouring rain we steamed away, awaking in the
early morning, after snatches of sleep, in the Caribbean
ourselves as sorely troubled as the sea. It was the
280 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
Sabbath, but no day of rest to our tortured bodies. At
eleven o'clock A.M., a few a praiseworthy few
gathered in the cabin for a short religious service, con-
ducted by the Captain. Monday morning came, but
brought no relief ; and thus things continued, with little
variation, until we reached the West Indies, where par-
tial shelter secured calmer waters. But so stirred up
were we ourselves, that these islands, to which I had been
longingly looking forward, had mostly lost their charms.
We sighted several of them, but stopped at none, simply
passing in the night close by Cuba, herself so filled with
troubles, fillibustering and insurrectionary, as seemingly
unable to hold out more than one sickly light for the
safety of others. By the time we reached the quiet
waters of the beautiful Bahamas, the spirits of the few
Britons on board rose to a possible cheer at the sight of
the Old Flag floating from the fortifications. But once
out of range of these islands, the trade winds from the
north-east swept us terribly. A hundred miles off Cape
Hatteras matters were at their worst ; all previous dis-
tress was slight compared to this. It was not always safe,
except for " old salts," to be out on deck ; but the head
winds, blowing the abominable thousand and one smells
of the steerage and engine-room back into the cabin,
drove us above in spite of drenching spray and slippery
decks ; even here the ill odors followed us. A few,
driven to desperation, and holding on to whatever was at
hand, crawled to the windward side of the smells in the
ON THE ATLANTIC. 281
forward part of the vessel. Alas ! we had fled from one
ill to a worse ; the pitchings of the prow and the shower
of spray sent over us, as some great wave struck the
steamer, drove us again below.
Gallantry, of which there had been a full share among
the youthful and gay, was at an end ; even the common
courtesies of life were little regarded; class and orders were
ignored ; Democracy was having its day ; the most social
disappeared in their state-rooms, or, like others, sought
out the easiest unoccupied spot in the cabin, and there
staid, stolid, sullen, silent, never moved except by internal
troubles. Objects of interest there doubtless are, and all
about us ; but what are they, what the world, what life
itself, to a man nauseated, racked, strained, unstrung,
exhausted all the functions of body, brain, and even soul
confused, suspended by sea-sickness ? The inexperienced
and incredulous may shrug their shoulders, and hint at
" fancy pictures " and " shams ; " and yet, in all the realm
of nature, there is nothing I know so fitted to take the
conceit out of self, and to destroy the charms of the
" deep blue sea," as sea-sickness.
At last the interminable week ends, the storm still rag-
ing. Saturday, at midnight, we "turn in," and utterly
overcome, sleep sleep oblivious of everything. On
awaking in the morning I am sensible of a change, but
what it is, or where we are, is not at first so clear. Crawling
to the window, I get a glimpse that thrills me through
and through. " Truly the light is sweet, and a pleasant
282 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
thing it is for the eyes to behold the sun." Dressing
hastily as possible, I creep up on deck, and oh ! what a
scene is spread out before our tearful eyes ! What a glo-
rious world ! Was there ever so bright, so beautiful a
day ? The cloudless heavens, the peaceful ocean, the
clear, deep blue of sky and sea ; here and there on the
horizon an unwrecked sail shining in the sun, the very
creatures of the air and waters catching the inspiration of
the glad hour. Sea-birds which we had not seen for
days, their snowy plumage glistening in the sun, wheel
about the ship ; porpoises, playful as children out of
school, keep us company for hours sometimes beneath
the surface, but near it, and clearly seen ; sometimes
breaking the water in graceful leaps now on one side of
the ship, and now diving, suddenly appearing on the
other ; and again, as if conscious of superior powers, chal-
lenging us to a trial of speed, and leading the way straight
in the steamer's course ; these were the things to which we
awoke on that morning of joy.
At eleven o'clock we gather for religious service. The
Captain, setting aside the regulations of the line restricting
to himself the conduct of religious exercises on board,
politely requests the writer to take his place. Earnest,
thankful hearts unite in the opening service ; then comes
the sermon on "Cares committed to God, and the Reward
of Peace." Many a fresh and glowing thought did storm
and calm suggest. It was good to be there. Jesus was
no longer asleep in the ship, but with us in power, speak-
ON THE ATLANTIC. 283
ing peace to troubled hearts as to troubled waters. It
was the Lord's Day, and we rejoiced and were glad in it.
And all these blessings peaceful waters, clear skies,
bright sun, charming ending of our voyage were " the
result of the storm going before," said the Captain. And
so it is in the higher, grander course of the Christian.
After the "contrary winds," the "calm;" after the
" chastening," the " peaceable fruit of righteousness ; "
after the "weeping for a night," "joy in the morning;"
after the "swellings of Jordan," the "chariot of fire"
and the "whirlwind" ride to Heaven; after "the suffer-
ings of Christ," the " glory that should follow."
" ' Land ho ! ' from the mast-head swelling,
On the breeze its music throws ;
Like the tones of angels, telling
Where the soul may find repose."
As we near the harbor's mouth, the shadows of evening
gather around, but the countless lamps hung out in the
heavens shine down upon us assuringly; we sleep as
peacefully as a babe upon its mother's bosom, undisturbed
by the casting of the anchor,' and awake in the morning
safe within the harbor. About us is a forest of shipping,
some new-launched and untried, and some weather-worn
and storm-scarred some lightly laden and some heavily,
but all alike safe-sheltered in the haven. Beyond, to
our left, skirting the beautiful bluffs of Staten Island, are
the mansions of the wealthy ; whilst before us rises the
284 TEN THOUSAND MILES BY LAND AND SEA.
great city from whose towers comes the melody of morn-
ing bells, and from whose church spires, pointing ever up
and highest heavenward, are reflected the first rays of the
returning sun. The exceeding beauty of this golden
October morning, unsurpassed if not unequalled in other
lands, casts a glamour over the scene, softening down its
asperities and glorifying the stricken face of nature with the
most gorgeous hues. A subtle, all-pervading magnetism
produces wondrous exhilaration of spirits. Indifference
and differences melt and disappear in the fervid glow.
Caste and conventionalisms are swallowed up in the over-
flowing joy. Party lines and sectarian shibboleths
scarce receive a thought. Vigorous hand-shakings and
hearty congratulations, delightfully general, show the power
and the blessing of suffering of suffering togetJw .
To Authors.
J!AS. CAMPBELL & SON,
Publishers of the Canadian Prize Stmday
School Books, the National Series of
Readers, and other School and Miscel-
laneous Books, are prepared to
FURNISH ESTIMATES TO
AUTHORS
for the publication of their MSS., and
may be consulted personally or by letter.
They will engage to have proofs care-
fully revised while passing through the
press, if required.
The facilities possessed by Jas. Camp-
bell CN Son for the Publication of Books
in the best Modern Styles, at the Lowest
Prices, and their lengthened experience
warrant them in undertaking the Publi-
cation of any work submitted to them, and
in offering their services to Authors who
desire to publish on their own account.
Toronto.
Barnes Campbell 6 Son's Publications.
CANADIAN
Prize Sunday School Books.
KATIE JOHNSTONE'S CROSS,
A CANADIAN TALE.
By A. M. M.
Illustrated. 60 cts.
JESSIE GREY,
OR
THE DISCIPLINE OF LIFE,
A CANADIAN TALE.
By N. L. G.
Illustrated. 50 cts.
THE OLD AND THE NEW HOME,
A CANADIAN TALE.
By J. E.
Illustrated. 60 cts.
SOWING THE GOOD SEED,
By ALICIA.
A CANADIAN TALE.
Illustrated. 50 cts.
EMILY'S CHOICE,
A CANADIAN TALE.
By E. V. N.
Illustrated. 60 cts.
May be ordered of any Bookseller in the
Dominion.
JAMES CAMPBELL & SON'S
Sunday School Libraries,
CONTAINING UPWARDS OF
ONE THOUSAND VOLUMES,
Carefully selected from all the Religious
Publications of Britain, and put up in
boxes, varying in prices from One Dollar
to Twelve Dollars, and containing from
Six to Fifty Volumes each case.
These Libraries are now in extensive
use throughout the Dominion; are in
every way suitable for Canadian Sunday
School Children, and supply a want long
expressed by Superintendents, Conven-
tions, and friends of Sunday School
instruction.
Campbelfs Canadian Sunday School Lib-
raries and Catalogues will be supplied by all
Booksellers in the Dominion.
\
[JOHN HOWELL
IMPOBTER
SAN FBANCISOO
