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SOUTHERN  ITALY 


AND 


SICILY. 


COMPARATIVE  MONEY-TABLE. 

Approximate  Equivalents. 


It 

alian. 

J       American. 

1               E 

nglish. 

Francs. 

Centesimi. 

Dollars. 

Cents. 

Pounds. 

Shillings. 

Pence. 

_ 

5 

1 

Mi 

— 

25 

— 

5 





21  2 

— 

50 

— 

10 

— 



5 

— 

75 

— 

15 





7iU 

1 

— 

,     — 

20 





9»4 

2 

— 

— 

40 



1 

■P* 

3 

— 

— 

60 



2 

51 

4 

— 

— 

80 

— 

3 

2i|2 

5 

— 

1 





4 



6 

— 

1 

20 

— 

4 

93|« 

7 

— 

1 

40 

— 

5 

7i|2 

8 

— 

1 

60 

— 

6 

5 

9 
10 

— 

1 

2 

80 

— 

7 
8 

2'|2 

20 

— 

4 

— 



16 



25 

— 

5 

— 

1 



100 

20 

— 

4 

— 



ITALY 


HANDBOOK  FOE  TRAVELLERS 

BY 

K.    BAEDEKER 


THIRD    PART: 

SOUTHERN  ITALY  AND  SICILY, 

with  Excursions  to  the 

LIPARI  ISLANDS,  MALTA,  SARDINIA,  TUNIS,  AND  CORFU 

With  25  Maps  and  16  Flans 

Eleventh  Revised  Edition 


LEIPSIC  :  KARL  BAEDEKER,  PUBLISHER. 

LONDON:    DULAU  AND  CO.,   37  SOHO  SQUARE,  W. 

1893. 

All  Rights  Reserved. 


'Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call, 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all'. 


PREFACE. 


The  objects  of  the  Handbook  for  Italy,  which  consists 
of  three  volumes,  each  complete  in  itself,  are  to  supply  the 
traveller  with  the  most  necessary  information  regarding  the 
history  and  culture  of  the  people  he  is  about  to  visit,  to 
render  him  as  independent  as  possible  of  the  services  of 
guides  and  valets-de-place,  to  protect  him  against  extortion, 
and  in  every  way  to  aid  him  in  deriving  enjoyment  and 
instruction  from  his  tour  in  one  of  the  most  fascinating 
countries  in  the  world.  These  volumes  will  also,  it  is  hoped, 
be  the  means  of  saving  the  traveller  many  a  trial  of  temper ; 
for  there  is  probably  no  country  in  Europe  where  the  patience 
is  more  severely  taxed  than  in  some  parts  of  Italy. 

The  whole  work  is  based  on  the  personal  acquaintance 
of  the  Editor  or  his  friends  with  the  places  described,  most 
of  which  he  has  repeatedly  and  carefully  explored.  As, 
however,  changes  are  constantly  taking  place,  he  will  highly 
appreciate  any  communications  with  which  travellers  may 
kindly  favour  him,  if  the  result  of  their  own  observation. 
The  information  already  received  from  numerous  correspon- 
dents, which  he  gratefully  acknowledges,  has  in  many  cases 
proved  most  serviceable.  Hotel-bills,  with  annotations  show- 
ing the  traveller's  opinion  of  his  treatment  and  accommoda- 
tion, are  particularly  useful. 

The  Handbook  for  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily,  which  now 
appears  for  the  eleventh  time,  has  been  thoroughly  revised 
and  considerably  augmented,  and  the  information  regarding 
Naples  and  its  environs  in  particular  has  been  carefully  veri- 
fied. The  account  of  the  climatic  and  sanitary  conditions  of 
Naples  given  at  p.  xxiv  is  from  the  pen  of  a  thoroughly  com- 
petent observer,  and  while  dissipating  some  of  the  exag- 
gerated notions  which  are  prevalent  regarding  its  unheal- 
thiness,  may  afford  some  useful  hints  for  the  traveller's  mode 
of  life  in  that  town.  The  article  on  Ancient  Art  by  Prof. 
R.  KekuM  of  Berlin  has  been  adapted  for  the  use«of  English 
travellers  with  the  kind  assistance  of  Mr.  J.  A.  Crowe,  the 
eminent  historian  of  art,  and  will  be  found  suggestive  by 
visitors  to  the  museums  of  Naples  and  Palermo  or  the  ruins 
of  Pompeii. 


vi  PREFACE. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  on  which  special  care  has  been 
bestowed,  will  abundantly  suffice  for  the  use  of  the  ordinary- 
traveller.  The  Map  of  Sicily,  drawn  by  Prof.  Kiepert  of  Ber- 
lin, is  a  reproduction  on  a  reduced  scale  of  the  map  of  the 
Italian  Ordnance  Survey ;  the  rivers  which  flow  all  the  year 
round  are  printed  in  blue,  those  which  are  generally  dry  in 
brown. 

Heights  are  given  in  English  feet  (1  Engl.  ft.  =  0,3048 
metre),  and  Distances  in  English  miles.  Populations  are 
stated  in  accordance  with  the  latest  official  returns. 

Hotels.  The  inns  of  S.  Italy  and  Sicily,  with  the  exception 
of  those  of  Naples,  Palermo,  and  a  few  other  towns,  are  sadly 
behind  the  requirements  of  the  age ;  but  the  Editor  has  in- 
dicated by  asterisks  those  which  he  has  reason  to  consider 
comparatively  respectable ,  clean ,  and  reasonable.  The 
charges  in  the  most  frequented  places  have  a  constant  ten- 
dency to  rise,  but  those  of  the  last  few  years  are  approx- 
imately stated  in  the  Handbook  for  the  traveller's  guidance. 

To  hotel -proprietors,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor 
begs  to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  dealing  and  cour- 
tesy towards  travellers  forms  the  sole  passport  to  his  com- 
mendation, and  that  advertisements  of  every  kind  are  strictly 
excluded  from  his  Handbooks.  Hotel-keepers  are  also  warned 
against  persons  representing  themselves  as  agents  for  Bae- 
deker's Handbooks. 


CONTENTS. 


Introduction.  Page 

I.  Travelling  Expenses.     Money xi 

II.  Period  of  Tour.     Language xii 

III.  Passports.    Custom  House.    Luggage       ....  xiii 

IV.  Public  Safety.     Begging xiii 

V.  Intercourse  with.  Italians.  Gratuities xiv 

VI.  Conveyances xv 

VII.  Hotels.     Private  Apartments.    .......  xix 

VIII.  Restaurants,  Cafe's,  etc xx 

IX.  Sights,  Theatres,   Shops xxii 

X.  Post  Office.    Telegraph xxiii 

XI,  Climate  and  Health  of  Naples xxiv 

XII.  History  of  Ancient  Art,  by  Prof.  R.  Kekule  .     .  xxviii 

History  of  the  Kingdom  of  Naples xlvi 

Route  Routes. 

1 .  From  Rome  to  Naples  by  Railway 1 

2.  From  Rome  to  Naples  via  Terracina  and  Gaeta   ....  11 

3.  Naples 19 

Preliminary  Observations: 

a.  Arrival.    IJotels,  Pensions,  Restaurants,  Cafes,  etc.     .      .      .      19-21 

b.  Carriages,  Tramways,  Omnibuses,  Boats 21-23 

c.  Bankers,  Money-Changers.   Consulates.  Physicians,  Hospitals. 

Baths.   Post  and  Telegraph  Office.   English  Churches   .      .     23-25 

d.  Shops 25,  26 

e.  Theatres.    Street  Scenes.    Religious  and  National  Festivals  .     26-28 

f.  Duration  of  Stay  and  Disposition  of  Time.  Guides  .  .  29,  30 
Remarks  on  the  Situation  and  Characteristics  of  Naples  30 
I.  Side  next   the  Sea  (from   the  Villa  Nazionale   to  the 

Piazza  del  Mercato) 32 

II.  The  Toledo  (from  the  Largo  della  Vittoria  through  the 
Strada  Chiaja  and  the  Toledo  to  the  National  Mu- 
seum.   Strada  Foria) 40 

III.  The  Old  Town.  E.  Quarters,  between  the  Toledo  and 
the  Harbour  (from  the  Strada  Medina  through  the 
Str.  Montoliveto  to  the  Str.  S.  Trinita;  Porta 
Capuana,  Cemeteries, ,  Strada  de'  Tribunali)  ...       42 

IV-  The  Museum        55 

V.  Higher  Quarters:  Capodimonte,  CorsoVittorio  Emanuele, 

Castel  S.  Elmo,  S.  Martino 80 

VI.  Hill  of  Posilipo 85 

Excursion  to  Camaldoli 89 

4.  "Western  Environs  of  Naples  —  Pozzuoli,  Baise,  Misenum, 

Cumse 91 

5.  Procida  and  Ischia 104 


viii  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

6.  From  Naples  to  Pompeii  (and  Salerno).    Hereulaneum. 

High-road  from  Naples  to  Pompeii *®° 

7.  Mount  Vesuvius        H~ 

8.  Pompeii 11" 

9.  Castellammare,   Sorrento,  and  Capri 143 

10.  The  Gulf  of  Salerno.   Paestum,  Amalfl 159 

11.  From  Naples  to  Benevento  via  Nola  and  Avellino  .     .  173 

E.  and  S.   Districts  of  S.  Italy. 

12.  From  Terni  to  Solmona  through  the  Abruzzi    ....  177 

Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia.  180.  —  From  Aquila  to  Avezzano,  181. 

13.  From  Rome  to  Castellammare  Adriatico  via  Avezzano  and 

Solmona 181 

From  Solmona  to  Caianello ^ 

14.  From  Avezzano  to  Roccasecca  (Naples) 187 

15.  From  Ancona  to  Foggia  (Brindisi) 189 

From  S.  Benedetto   to  Ascoli  Piceno.   189.  —  From  Giulia- 
nova  to  Teramo.  190.  —  From  Termoli  to  Benevento.  191. 
—  From   Foggia  to  Manfredonia.   193.   —  From  Foggia  to 
Lucera.  193. 
From  Foggia  to  Melfl.     Venosa 194,  196 

16.  From  Foggia  to  Brindisi  and  the  Apulian  Peninsula   .  195 

From   Barletta   to  Bari   via  Andria,    196.  —   From   Bari  to 
Taranto,  199.  —  From  Zollino  to  Gallipoli,  202. 

17.  From  Naples  to  Foggia  (Ancona) 203 

18.  From  Naples  to  Brindisi  via  Metaponto  and  Taranto  .      .  207 

From  Sicignano  to  Lagonegro  and  Spezzano ....      207,  208 

19.  From  (Naples)  Metaponto  to  Reggio ,  213 

20.  From  Sibari  to  Reggio  via  Cosenza 218 

21.  From  Naples  to  Messina  by  Sea 223 

22.  From  Naples  to  Palermo  by  Sea    • 224 

Sicily. 

General  Remarks 225 

Geography  and  Statistics 225 

Historical  Notice 233 

1.  Political  History 233 

2.  History  of  Civilisation  and  Art       .       .             ....  239 

23.  Palermo 246 

24.  Environs  of  Palermo 268 

a.  Acquasanta.     Monte  Pellegrino.     The  Favorita     .       .      .  268 

b.  La  Cuba.     Monreale.     S.  Martino 270 

c.  Parco 273 

d.  S.  Maria  di  Gesii.     Favara.     Campo  Sant'  Orsola       .      .  273 

e.  Bagheria.     Solunto           274 

Island  of  TJstica 276 

25.  From  Palermo  to  Trapani 276 

From  Calatafimi   to  Segesta,  278.  —  From  Castelvetrano  to 
Selinunto,  280. 

26.  From  Castelvetrano  (Selinunto)  to  Girgenti    ....  288 

From  Palermo  to  Sciacca  via  Corleone 289 

27.  From  Palermo  to  Girgenti  and  Porto  Empedocle  .     .     .  290 


MAPS.  ix 

Route  Page 

28.  Girgenti 293 

29.  From  Palermo  and  Girgenti  to  Catania 298 

From  Castrogiovanni  to  Catania  via  Caltagirone  ....        302 

30.  From  Girgenti  to  Syracuse  via  Palma,  Licata,  Terranova, 

Modica  (Val  d'Ispica),   and  Palazzolo 303 

31 .  From  Palermo  to  Messina  by  the  Coast 307 

From  Gesso  to  Messina 313 

32.  Messina 313 

33.  The  Lipari  Islands 322 

34.  From  Messina  to  Catania.     Taormina 326 

35.  From  Taormina  to  Catania  round  the  "W.  side  of  Mt.  jEtna  333 

36.  Catania 336 

37.  Mount  jEtna 341 

38.  From  Catania  to   Syracuse 348 

39.  Syracuse 350 

40.  Sardinia 365 

a.  Cagliari  and  Environs 368 

h.  From  Cagliari  to  Sassari 371 

c.  Sassari.    Porto  Torres 374, 375 

d.  From  Cagliari'to  Nuoro,  with  Excursions  into  the  Mountains 

of  La  Barbagia 375 

41.  Excursion  to  Malta 376 

42.  Excursion  to  Tunis.     Carthage 379 

43.  Excursion  to  Corfu 387 

List  of  Artists 392 

Index 396 

Maps. 

1 .  Map  of  Southern  Italy  ,  from  Rome  to  Capo  Palinuro 
(1  :  3,350,000),  facing  title-page. 

2.  Environs  of  Monte  Cassino  (1  :  50,000),  p.  4. 

3.  General  Map  of  the  Environs    of  Naples  (1 :  400,000),  be- 
tween pp.  90,  91. 

4.  "Wbstbrn  Environs  of  Naples  (1 :  100,000) ,   between  pp. 
92,  93. 

5.  The  Islands  of  Procida  and  Ischia  (1 :  100,000),  p.  104. 

6.  Eastern  Environs  of  Naples.    Mt.  Vesuvius  (1 :  100,000), 
between  pp.  110,  111. 

7.  Peninsula   of   Sorrento   and  Island    of   Capri  ,    between 
pp.  144,  145. 

8.  Environs  of  La  Cava,  Salerno,   and  Amalfi  (1 :  100,000), 
between  pp.  164,  165. 

9.  District  bbtwebn  Salbrno  and  P^stum  (1  :  286,000),  p.  165. 

10.  Environs  of  Taranto  (1 :  50,000),  p.  210. 

11.  District  of  Metapontum  (1  :  50,000),  p.  210. 

12.  General  Map  of  Calabria  (1 :  350,000),  p.  214. 

13.  Environs  op  Palermo  (1 :  75,000),  p.  268. 


x  PLANS. 

14.  DistrictbetwebnCalatapimiandSegesta(1:50,000),  p. 278. 

15.  District  op  Selinunto  (1  :  50,000),  p.  279. 

16.  Environs  op  Girgenti  (1 :  50,000),  p.  293. 

17.  Environs  op  Messina  (1 :  400,000),  p.  314. 

18.  Environs  op.  Taormina  (1  :  50,000),  p.  328. 

19.  Mount  .Etna  (1  :  300, 000),  between  pp.  342,  343. 

20.  Environs  op  Syracuse  (1 :  50,000),  between  pp.  350,  351. 

21.  Map  of  Sardinia  (1 . 1,350,000),  p.  364. 

22.  Malta,  Gozzo,  Comino  (1  :  500,000),  p.  378. 

23.  Environs  op  Tunis  (1  :  250,000),  p.  379. 

24.  Map  of  Sicily,  with  the  Lipari  Islands  (1  :  800,000),  after 
the  Index. 

25.  Railway  Map  of  Italy  (1 :  7,000,000),  at  the  end  of  the  Hand- 
book. 

Flans. 
1.  Naples  (1  :  10,100),  p.  18.  —  2,  3.  Museo  Nazionale  al 
Naples,  ground-floor  p.  70,  upper  floor  p.  71.  —  4.  Pozzuoli,  p.  93. 
—  5,  6.  Pompeii,  general  plan  (1  :  4200),  p.  120,  plan  of  excavations 
(1 :  8500),  between  pp.  120,  121.  —  7.  House  op  Pansa  at  Pompeii, 
p.  120.  —  8.  P2estum  (1 :  28,000),  p.  165.  —  9.  Bari  (1 :  10,000), 
p.  198.  —  10.  Palermo  (1 :  13,000),  p.  246.  —  11, 12.  Museo  Na- 
zionale at  Palermo,  ground-floor  p.  261,  upper  floor  p.  263.  —  13. 
Acropolis  op  Selinunto,  p.  281.  —  14.  Messina  and  Environs 
between  pp.  314,  315.  —  15.  Catania,  between  pp.  336,  337.  — 
16.  Syracuse,  modern  town,  p.  351. 

Abbreviations. 

R.  =room;  B.  =  breakfast;  dej.  =  de'jeuner  a,  la  fourchette; 
D.  =  dinner;  S.  =  supper;  L.  =  light;  A.  =  attendance.  — 
N.  =  north  ,  northern  ,  etc.  ;  S.  =  south,  southern,  etc. ;  E.  = 
east,  etc.;  W.  =  west,  etc.  —  r.  =  right;  1.  =  left;  min.  = 
minute;  hr.  =  hour.  —  M.  =  English  mile;  ft.  =  Engl,  foot; 
fr.  =  franc,  c.  =  centime. 

The  letter  d  with  a  date,  after  the  name  of  a  person,  indicates 
the  year  of  his  death.  The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name  oi 
a  place  shows  its  height  above  the  sea-level.  The  number  ol 
miles  placed  before  the  principal  places  on  railway-routes  and  high- 
Toads  indicates  their  distance  from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 

Asterisks  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


INTRODUCTION. 


"Thou  art  the  garden  of  the  world,  the  home 
Of  all  Art  yields,  and  Nature  can  decree; 
E'en  in  thy  desert,  what  is  like  to  thee? 
Thy  very  weeds  are  beautiful,  thy  waste 
More  rich  than  other  climes'  fertility, 
Thy  wreck  a  glory,  and  thy  ruin  graced 
With  an  immaculate  charm   which  cannot  be  defaced. 

Bykos. 

I.     Travelling  Expenses.     Honey. 

Expenses.  The  cost  of  a  tour  in  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily 
depends  of  course  on  the  traveller's  means  and  habits,  but  it  may 
be  stated  generally  that  his  expenses  need  not  exceed  those  in- 
curred in  the  more  frequented  parts  of  the  Continent.  The  average 
expenditure  of  a  single  traveller  may  be  estimated  at  15-25  francs 
per  day,  or  at  10-12  francs  when  a  prolonged  stay  is  made  at  one 
place,  while  those  who  are  acquainted  with  the  language  and  habits 
of  the  country  may  reduce  their  expenses  to  still  narrower  limits. 
Persons  travelling  as  members  of  a  party  also  effect  a  considerable 
saving  by  sharing  the  expense  of  guides,  carriages,  and  other  items. 
When,  however,  ladies  are  of  the  party,  the  expenses  are  always 
unavoidably  greater. 

Honey.  The  French  monetary  system  is  now  used  throughout 
the  whole  of  Italy.  The  franc  (lira  or  franco)  contains  1 00  centesimi; 
1  fr.  25  c.  =  1  A.  =  1  German  mark  (comp.  the  money-table  at 
p.  ii).  A  piece  of  5  c.  is  called  a  soldo  (or  sow).  The  gold  and 
silver  coins  of  Prance,  Switzerland,  Belgium,  and  Greece  circulate 
in  Italy,  but  they  are  very  unwillingly  accepted  by  the  people  in 
S.  Italy,  and  in  Sicily  they  are  refused.  The  traveller  should  be  on 
his  guard  against  old  coins  from  the  papal  mint,  Roumanian  and 
South  American  coins,  which  are  much  depreciated,  and  Greek  copper 
coins.  Even  Italian  silver  coins  issued  before  1863  ('Be  Eletto')  are 
liable  to  refusal,  as  are  also  much  worn  coins  of  any  kind.  Base 
coins  representing  1/2,  l,or2  francs  are  very  common.  The  only  bank- 
notes now  current  throughout  the  whole  country  are  those  of  the 
Banco,  Nazionale  and  the  Biglietti  di  Stato,  but  the  notes  of  the 
Banco  di  Napoli  also  pass  in  Southern  Italy,  and  those  of  the  Banco 
di  Sicilia  in  Sicily. 

Best  Money  toe.  thb  Toto.  Circular  Notes  or  Letters  of  Credit, 
issued  by  the  principal  English  and  American  banks,  are  very  con- 
venient for  the  transport  of  large  sums,  and  always  realise  the  full 
current  exchange.  English  banknotes  also  realise  their  nominal 
equivalent  in  the  principal  towns.  A  moderate  supply  of  French 
Gold  will  be  found  desirable.  Sovereigns  are  almost  everywhere 
received  as  the  equivalent  of  25  fr.,   and  sometimes  a  little  more. 


xii  PERIOD  OP  TOUR. 

In  remote  districts,  however,  especially  in  Sicily,  all  foreign  money 
is  refused. 

Exchangb.  Foreign  money  is  most  advantageously  changed  in 
the  larger  towns ,  either  at  one  of  the  English  hankers  or  at  a  re- 
spectable money-changer's  ('cambiavalutd').  Those  money-changers 
who  publicly  exhibit  a  list  of  the  current  rates  of  exchange  are  the 
most  satisfactory.  The  exchange  is  effected  more  advantageously 
at  Rome  than  at  Naples  or  any  of  the  other  towns  in  S.  Italy.  The 
traveller  should  always  stipulate  for  an  abundant  supply  of  small 
notes  and  silver,  as  it  is  often  difficult  to  change  those  of  large 
amount.  Besides  silver  and  small  notes,  l-li/2fr.  in  copper  should 
also  be  carried  in  a  separate  pocket  or  pouch. 


II.    Period  of  Tour.     Language. 

Season.  The  season  selected  must  of  course  depend  on  the 
traveller's  convenience ,  but  the  best  time  for  Naples  ,  and  par- 
ticularly for  other  parts  of  S.  Italy  and  Sicily  is  spring,  from  the 
end  of  March  to  the  end  of  May,  or  autumn,  from  the  end  of 
September  to  the  middle  of  November.  September  is  usually  op- 
pressively hot,  with  numerous  thunder-storms,  and  is  therefore  the 
worst  month  for  the  tourist.  The  rainy  winter  months  had  better  be 
devoted  to  Rome.  The  hot  season  may  be  spent  at  some  of  the 
charming  summer-resorts  in  the  environs  of  Naples,  such  as  Sor- 
rento, Castellammare,  and  Cava  deiTirreni,  but  is  unfavourable  for 
travelling  in  the  South  of  Italy.  The  scenery  indeed  is  then  in 
perfection,  and  the  long  days  are  hailed  with  satisfaction  by  the 
enterprising  traveller ;  but  he  will  soon  experience  the  enervating 
effects  of  exposure  to  the  fierce  rays  of  an  Italian  sun.  These  effects 
are  produced,  not  so  much  by  the  intensity,  as  by  the  protracted 
duration  of  the  heat,  the  sky  being  frequently  cloudless,  and  not 
a  drop  of  rain  falling  for  many  weeks. 

At  p.  29  the  traveller  will  find  various  plans  for  excursions 
in  the  environs  of  Naples,  and  at  p.  225  are  others  for  a  tour 
in  Sicily.  The  other  districts  described  in  the  Handbook  are 
rarely  visited  by  ordinary  tourists,  but  those  who  desire  to  ex- 
plore them,  whether  in  search  of  the  picturesque,  or  for  scien- 
tific purposes,  will  have  no  difficulty  in  framing  an  itinerary. 

Language.  The  time  and  labour  which  the  traveller  has 
bestowed  on  the  study  of  Italian  at  home  will  be  amply  repaid 
as  he  proceeds  on  his  journey,  and  more  particularly  in  Southern 
Italy  and  Sicily.  It  is  quite  possible  for  Englishmen  to  travel  in  the 
regions  around  Naples  and  Palermo,  perhaps  with  the  aid  of  a  little 
French,  but  in  this  case  the  traveller  cannot  conveniently  deviate 
from  the  beaten  track,  and  is  moreover  constantly  exposed  to  gross 
extortion.  Those ,  therefore ,  who  desire  to  derive  instruction 
from  their  tour  and  to  confine  their  expenditure  within  moderate 


LUGGAGE.  xiii 

limits  will  find  a  slight  acquaintance  with  the  language  +  of  the 
country  indispensable. 

III.     Passports.    Custom  House.    Luggage. 

Passports.  Passports  are  not  absolutely  required  in  Italy,  but  it 
is  unwise  not  to  be  provided  with  one  of  these  documents,  as  it 
may  occasionally  prove  useful.  Registered  letters,  for  example,  are 
not  delivered  to  strangers  unless  they  exhibit  a  passport  as  a  guar- 
antee of  their  identity.  The  countenance  and  help  of  the  Eng- 
lish and  American  consuls  can ,  of  course,  be  extended  to  those 
persons  only  who  can  prove  their  nationality.  Excursions  into 
the  country  in  the  southern  provinces  should  not  be  undertaken 
without  a  passport. 

Foreign  Office  passports  may  be  obtained  in  London  through  E.  Stan- 
ford, 26  Cockspur  Street,  Charing  Cross,  W.  J.  Adams,  59  Fleet  Street,  or 
Lee  and  Carter,  440  West  Strand. 

Custom  House.  The  examination  of  luggage  which  takes 
place  at  the  Italian  custom-houses  on  the  arrival  of  the  traveller 
by  land  or  sea,  even  when  the  vessel  has  come  from  another 
Italian  port,  is  usually  very  lenient.  Tobacco  and  cigars  are  the 
articles  most  sought  for.  "Weapons  of  all  kinds  are  liable  to  con- 
fiscation (see  p.  xiv).  The  'dazio  consumo',  or  municipal  tax 
levied  on  comestibles  in  most  of  the  Italian  towns,  seldom  of 
course  requires  to  be  paid  by  ordinary  travellers.  An  assurance 
that  their  luggage  contains  nothing  liable  to  duty  generally  suffices 
to  prevent  detention. 

Luggage.  If  possible,  luggage  should  never  be  sent  to  Italy 
by  goods'  train  except  through  the  medium  of  a  trustworthy  goods- 
agent,  to  whom  the  keys  must  be  forwarded.  As  a  rule,  however, 
the  traveller  will  find  it  advisable,  and  less  expensive,  never  to 
part  from  his  luggage ,  and  always  to  superintend  the  custom- 
house examination  in  person.  Articles  of  great  value  should  not 
be  entrusted  to  the  safe-keeping  of  an  trunk  or  portmanteau,  how- 
ever strong  and  secure  it  may  seem. 

The  enormous  weight  of  the  trunks  used  by  some  travellers  not  un- 
frequently  causes  serious  and  even  lifelong  injury  to  the  hotel  and  railway 
porters  who  have  to  handle  them.  Travellers  are  therefore  urged  to  place 
their  heavy  articles  in  the  smaller  packages  and  thus  minimize  the  evil  as 
far  as  possible. 


t  A  few  words  on  the  pronunciation  may  be  acceptable  to  persons 
unacquainted  with  the  language.  G  before  e  and  i  is  pronounced  like 
the  English  ch;  g  before  e  and  i  like  j.  Before  other  vowels  c  and  g  are 
hard.  Ch  and  gh,  which  generally  precede -e  or  «,  are  hard.  Sc  before  e 
or  i  is  pronounced  like  sh;  gn  and  gl  between  vowels  like  nyi  and  lyi. 
The  vowels  o,  e,  j,  o,  u  are  pronunced  ah,  a,  ee,  o,  oo.  —  In  addressing 
persons  of  the  educated  classes  'Ella'  or  'Lei',  with  the  3rd  pers.  sing., 
should  always  be  employed  (addressing  several  at  once,  'loro'  with  the 
3rd  pers.  pi.).  'Voi'  is  used  in  addressing  waiters,  drivers,  etc.,  'tu' 
in  familiar  conversation  only  by  those  who  are  proficient  in  the  language. 
'Voi'  is  the  common  mode  of  address  employed  by  the  Neapolitans,  but  is 
generally  regarded  as  inelegant  or  uncourteous. 


xlv  PUBLIC  SAFETY. 

IV.     Public  Safety.     Begging. 

Though  at  one  time,  and  in  fact  down  to  the  second  decade 
after  the  establishment  of  the  present  kingdom,  the  state  of  public 
safety  in  Italy  was  far  from  satisfactory,  yet  for  many  years  there- 
after it  left  nothing  to  he  desired,  and  the  isolated  cases  of  highway 
robbery  were  not  distinguishable  in  any  way  from  similar  crimes  in 
other  countries.  Of  recent  years,  however,  the  old  Brigantaggio  has 
reappeared  in  various  quarters.  Precautions  are  therefore  again  not 
to  be  despised  ,  and  travellers  are  recommended  to  make  enquiries 
beforehand  as  to  the  security  of  the  districts  they  propose  to  visit. 
Strangers,  whose  person  and  property  are  unknown,  have,  how- 
ever, much  less  cause  for  alarm  than  wealthy  natives,  who  are  known 
to  be  travelling  with  large  sums  of  money.  Expeditions  on  foot 
late  in  the  evening  and  after  nightfall  should  especially  be  avoided, 
even  when  this  precaution  involves  giving  up  a  visit  to  some  object 
or  place  of  interest.  In  the  poorer  and  less  frequented  streets  of 
Naples,  Palermo,  and  other  large  towns,  the  stranger  is  certainly  less 
safe^than  in  similar  quarters  in  the  large  towns  of  other  countries. 
The  recently  revived  brigandage  will  doubtless  soon  be  put  down  by 
the  Italian  government;  but  the  only  sure  protection  against  the 
dangers  of  the  poorer  quarters  of  the  towns  is  to  avoid  these  streets 
altogether.  In  the  towns  the  Ouardie  or  policemen ,  and  in  the 
country  the  Carabinieri,  or  gensdarmes  (who  wear  a  black  uniform, 
with  red  facings,  and  cocked  hats),  will  be  found  thoroughly  re- 
spectable and  trustworthy. 

Weapons,  which  for  the  ordinary  traveller  are  a  mere  burden, 
cannot  legally  be  carried  without  a  license,  obtainable  through  the 
traveller's  consul  or  ambassador.  Those  of  a  secret  character,  such 
as  sword-sticks  and  stick-guns,  are  entirely  prohibited  and  render 
the  bearer  liable  to  imprisonment  without  the  option  of  a  fine. 

Begging  still  continues  to  be  one  of  those  national  nuisances  to 
which  the  traveller  must  habituate  himself.  The  best  mode  of  get- 
ting rid  of  importunate  applicants  is  to  bestow  a  donation  of  2  c.  or 
at  most  5c,  or  else  firmly  to  decline  giving  with  —  'niente',  or  a 
gesture  of  disapproval.  —  The  misplaced  generosity  of  some  travel- 
lers, especially  to  children,  has  encouraged  a  habitual  importunity 
that  seriously  interferes  with  the  enjoyment  of  the  beauty  of  the 
country,  especially  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Naples  and  in  some  parts 
of  Sicily.  Still  more  reprehensible  than  the  bestowal  of  an  occasional 
gratuity  upon  children,  is  the  foolish  practice  of  'scattering'  copper 
coins  to  be  struggled  for  by  the  street  Arabs,  etc. 

V.    Intercourse  with  Italians.     Gratuities. 

Travelling  in  South  Italy   differs  essentially  in  some  respects 

from  that  in  France,  Germany,   and  Switzerland,  or  even  in  North 

Italy  and  Rome,  chiefly  owing  to  the  almost  invariable  necessity  for 

bargaining  with  innkeepers,  cab-drivers,  boatmen,  and  others  of  a 


INTERCOURSE  WITH  ITALIANS.  xv 

similar  class.  The  system  of  fixed  prices  is  being  gradually  in- 
troduced, but  it  gains  ground  much  more  slowly  in  Southern 
than  in  Northern  and  Central  Italy.  On  the  principal  routes,  and 
especially  in  Naples,  the  insolence  of  the  mercenary  fraternity  has 
attained  to  such  an  unexampled  pitch,  that  the  traveller  is  often 
tempted  to  doubt  whether  such  a  thing  as  honesty  is  known  here ; 
but  a  more  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  people  will  satisfy  him 
that  his  misgivings  apply  to  the  above  classes  only,  and  not  to  the 
community  generally. 

Where  tariffs  and  fixed  charges  exist,  they  should  be  carefully 
consulted.  In  other  cases  where  an  average  price  is  established  by 
custom,  the  traveller  should  make  a  precise  bargain  with  respect 
to  the  service  to  be  rendered,  and  never  rely  on  the  equity  of 
the  other  party.  lPatti  chiari,  amicizia  lunga'  is  a  good  Italian 
proverb.  In  the  following  pages  the  average  prices  of  hotel  accom- 
modation and  other  items  are  stated  with  all  possible  accuracy, 
and  although  liable  to  fluctuation  ,  will  often  prove  a  safeguard 
against  gross  extortion.  The  equanimity  of  the  traveller's  own 
temper  will  greatly  assist  him  if  involved  in  a  dispute  or  bargain, 
and  he  should  pay  no  attention  whatever  to  vehement  gesticul- 
ations or  an  offensive  demeanour.  The  slighter  his  knowledge  of 
the  Italian  language  is,  the  more  careful  should  he  be  not  to  in- 
volve himself  in  a  war  of  words,  in  which  he  must  necessarily  be 
at  great  disadvantage.  As  a  rule,  the  traveller  may  depend  on  the 
data  in  the  Handbook.  Where  information  is  required,  it  should 
be  sought  from  printed  tariffs,  from  fellow-travellers,  gensdarmes, 
respectably  dressed  persons  present,  occasionally  from  landlords,  but 
seldom  or  never  from  waiters. 

Gratuities.  —  The  traveller  should  always  be  provided  with  an 
abundant  supply  of  copper  coin  in  a  country  where  trifling  donations 
are  incessantly  in  demand.  Drivers,  guides,  porters,  and  donkey- 
attendants  invariably  expect ,  and  often  demand  as  a  right ,  a 
gratuity  (buona  rnano,  mancia,  da  bere,  bottiglia,  caffe,  sigaro,  mac- 
cheroni),  varying  according  to  circumstances  from  2-3  sous  to  a  franc 
or  more,  in  addition  to  their  hire.  The  traveller  need  not  scruple 
to  limit  his  donations  to  the  smallest  possible  sums,  as  liberality 
is  often  a  fruitful  source  of  annoyance  and  embarrassment. 

VI.  Conveyances. 
Railways.  The  remarks  made  in  the  first  two  volumes  of  this 
Handbook  on  the  railways  of  Northern  and  Central  Italy  apply  on 
the  whole  to  the  railways  of  Southern  Italy  also.  The  first-class  car- 
riages are  tolerably  comfortable,  the  second  resemble  the  English 
and  French,  while  the  third  class  is  chiefly  frequented  by  the  lower 
orders.  Among  the  expressions  with  which  the  railway-traveller 
will  soon  become  familiar  are  —  ^ronti  (ready),  'partenza1  (de- 
parture),   'si   cambia   convoglici     (change    carriages),    and    luscita' 


xvi  CONVEYANCES. 

(egress),  which  are  shouted  by  the  officials  with  characteristic 
vigour.  The  stationmaster  is  called  'capostazione1.  Smoking  com- 
partments are  labelled  lpei  fumatori',  those  for  non-smokers  le  vietato 
di  fumare'.  Railway  time  is  that  of  the  meridian  of  Rome,  52  min. 
ahead  of  that  of  Greenwich  and  40  min.  before  Paris.  + 

When  about  to  start  from  a  crowded  station,  the  traveller  will 
find  it  convenient  to  have  as  nearly  as  possible  the  exact  fare  ready 
before  taking  tickets  ('fare  il  biglietto').  In  addition  to  the  fare  a 
tax  of  5  c.  is  payable  on  each  ticket,  and  the  express  fares  are  about 
10  per  cent  higher  than  the  ordinary.  It  is  also  important  to  be  at 
the  station  early.  The  booking-office  at  large  stations  is  open 
40  min.,  at  small  stations  20  min.  before  the  departure  of  the 
trains.  Holders  of  tickets  are  alone  entitled  to  enter  the  waiting- 
rooms.  At  the  end  of  the  journey  tickets  are  given  up  at  the  uscfta, 
exoept  in  the  case  of  the  very  large  stations,  where  they  are  col- 
lected before  the  passengers  alight. 

The  traveller  is  recommended  to  ascertain  the  weight  of  his  lug- 
gage, if  possible,  before  going  to  the  station,  in  order  to  guard 
against  imposition  (1  kilogramme  =  about  21/5lbs.).  No  luggage  is 
allowed  free  except  small  articles  taken  by  the  passenger  into  his 
carriage.  Porters  who  convey  luggage  to  and  from  the  carriages  are 
sufficiently  paid  with  a  few  sous,  where  there  is  no  fixed  tariff. 
Those  who  intend  to  make  only  a  short  stay  at  a  place,  especially 
when  the  town  or  village  lies  at  a  distance  from  the  railway,  should 
leave  their  heavier  luggage  at  the  station  till  their  return  (dare  in 
deposito,  or  depositare,  10  c.  per  day  per  cwt.  or  fraction  of  a  cwt.). 

Through  Tickets  to  different  parts  of  Italy  are  issued  in  Lon- 
don (at  the  principal  railway-stations ;  by  Messrs.  Cook  &  Son,  Lud- 
gate  Circus,  Messrs.  Gaze,  142  Strand,  etc.),  in  Paris,  and  at  many 
of  the  principal  towns  in  Germany  and  Switzerland.  They  are 
generally  available  for  30  days. 

Circular  Tickets  (viaggi  circolari)  for  the  S.  Italian  lines  are 
issued  under  the  conditions  already  explained  in  the  first  two  parts 
of  the  present  Handbook,  and  in  the  time-tables.  The  'Indicatore 
Ufficiale'  gives  plans  of  the  various  tours,  which  extend  as  far  as 
Sicily.  Travellers  provided  with  circular  tickets  from  Northern 
Italy  to  Rome,  may  obtain,  in  connection  with  these,  Teturn-tickets 
from  Rome  to  Naples  (41  fr.  90,  29  fr.  35  c. ,  18  fr.),  which  are  valid 
for  the  period  for  which  the  circular-ticket  is  taken. 

Circular  tickets  require  to  be  stamped  at  each  fresh  starting-point 
with  the  name  of  the  next  station  at  which  the  traveller  intends  to  halt. 


t  The  most  trustworthy  time-tables  are  those  contained  in  the  Indi- 
catore Ufficiale  delle  Strade  Ferrate,  delta  Navigazione  e  Telegrafia  del 
Regno  d'ltalia  ,  published  at  Turin  monthly  by  the  Fratelli  Pozzo  (with 
map,  price  1  fr.),  and  in  Italia,  Orario  del  Movimento  Treni  e  Piroscafi 
(1  fr.)  published  at  Florence  by  Gius.  Arnaboldi.  It  is  advisable,  however 
not  to  trust  implicitly  to  their  accuracy  but  to  consult  the  local  time-tables 
as  well. 


CONVEYANCES.  xvii 

If,  therefore,  the  traveller  leaves  the  train  before  the  station  for  which 
his  ticket  has  been  stamped  he  must  at  once  apply  to  the  capostazione 
for  recognition  of  the  break  in  the  journey  Caccertare  il  cambiamenlo  dt 
deslinazione').  When  the  traveller  quits  the  prescribed  route,  intending 
to  rejoin  it  at  a  point  farther  on,  he  has  also  to  procure  an  'annotuzio/ie'1 
at  the  station  where  he  alights,  enabling  him  to  resume  his  circular  tour 
after  his  digression  ('vale  per  riprendere  alia  s/.azione  .  .  .  il  viagyio  inler- 
rotto  a  .  .  .).  If  this  ceremony  be  neglected  the  holder  of  the  ticket  is 
required  to  pay  treble  fare  for  the  omitted  portion  of  the  route  for  which 
the  ticket  is  issued.  —  Tickets  for  tours  of  20  days  or  more  may  be 
extended  for  a  period  not  exceeding  half  of  the  original  duration,  on 
payment  of  l°/o  of  the  original  price  for  each  day  of  the  extension. 

Return  Tickets  (Biglietti  d'andala  e  ritorno)ax&  generally  avail- 
able for  one  day  only,  except  those  issued  on  Saturday  or  the  eves 
of  festivals,  which  are  available  for  2-3  days.  It  should  also  be  ob- 
served that  if  the  traveller  alights  at  a  station  short  of  his  destin- 
ation he  forfeits  the  rest  of  his  ticket  for  the  direction  in  which  he 
is  proceeding.  In  returning  the  ticket  is  not  available  unless  he 
starts  from  the  end-station  for  which  the  ticket  was  issued. 

Steam  Tramways  (Tramvie  a  Vapore),  now  so  common  in  N. 
Italy,   are  also  already  in  use  in  some  parts  of  S.  Italy. 

Steamboats.  A  voyage  on  the  Mediterranean  or  Adriatic  is 
highly  recommended  to  the  traveller  in  fine  weather.  If  the  vessel 
plies  near  the  coast,  the  voyage  is  often  entertaining ;  and  if  the 
open  sea  is  traversed,  the  magnificent  Italian  sunsets,  lighting  up 
the  deep  blue  water  with  their  crimson  rays,  present  a  scene  not 
easily  forgotten.  Rough  weather  is  not  very  often  to  be  appre- 
hended in  summer.  Most  of  the  routes  in  this  Handbook  are  served 
by  steamers  of  the  Navigazione  Oenerale  Italiana,  Ftorio  $r  Rubattino, 
the  head  office  of  which  is  in  Rome. 

Tickets  should  be  purchased  by  the  traveller  in  person  at  the  office 
of  the  company.  The  ticket  is  furnished  with  the  purchaser's  name  and 
destination,  the  name  of  the  vessel,  and  the  hour  of  departure.  First  and 
second  class  family- tickets,  for  not  fewer  than  three  persons,  are  issued 
by  all  the  companies  at  a  reduction  of  20  per  cent  on  the  passage-money, 
but  not  on  the  cost  of  food.  A  child  of  2-10  years  pays  half-fare,  but  in 
this  case  must  share  the  berth  of  its  attendant.  Two  children  are  entitled 
to  a  berth  for  themselves.  —  Enquiry  should  be  made  beforehand  as  to 
the  punctuality  of  the  vessel,  as  it  sometimes  happens  in  smaller  ports 
that  the  shipment  and  unshipment  of  goods  prolong  the  voyage  for  a  day 
or  more  beyond  the  advertised  time. 

The  Fikst  Class  saloons  and  berths  are  comfortably  and  elegantly 
lifted  up,  those  of  the  Second  tolerably.  Second-class  passengers,  like 
those  of  the  first,  have  free  access  to  every  part  of  the  deck.  Ofiicers  ot 
the  Italian  and  French  armies,  up  to  and  including  those  of  the  rank  uf 
captain,  are  entitled  to  second-class  berths  only.  When  ladies  are  of  the 
party  it  is  of  course  advisable  to  travel  first-class. 

Luggage.  First-class  passengers  are  allowed  70  kilogrammes  (156  lbs. 
Engl.),  second-class  45  kilogr.  (100  lbs.),  but  articles  not  intended  for  per- 
sonal use  are  prohibited. 

Food  of  good  quality  and  ample  quantity  is  generally  included  in  the 
first  and  second-class  fares.  DtJeHner  «  la  fourchette,  served  at  10,  con- 
sists of  3-4  courses ,  table-wine ,  and  coffee.  Dinner  is  a  similar  repast 
between  5  and  6  o'clock.  Passengers  who  are  too  ill  to  partake  of  these 
cpasts  are  provided  with  lemonade,  etc.,  gratuitously.  Refreshments, 
rniay  of  course  be  procured  at  other  hours  on  payment  (cup  of  coffee  25  c.i 

Baedeiski:.    Italy  III.     ilth  Edition.  b 


xviii  CONVEYANCES. 

Fees.  The  steward  expects  1  fr.  for  a  voyage  of  12-24  hrs.,  but  more 
if  the  passenger  has  given  unusual  trouble. 

Embarkation.  Passengers  should  be  on  board  an  hour  before  the 
advertised  time  of  starting.  The  charges  for  conveyance  to  the  steamboat 
(usually  I-IV2  fr.  for  each  person  with  luggage)  are  fixed  by  tariff  at  all  the 
seaports,  and  will  be  found  in  the  Handbook.  Passengers  should  there- 
fore avoid  all  discussions  on  the  subject  with  the  boatmen,  and  simply 
direct  them  to  row  'al  Vaticano',  'alia  Bella  Venezia',  or  whatever  the 
name  of  the  vessel  may  be.  On  the  way,  the  boatmen  often  make  demands 
extravagantly  in  excess  of  the  tariff,  such  as,  'Signore,sono  cinque  lire!' 
—  to  which  the  passenger  may  simply  reply,  'avanti',  or  if  necessary 
he  may  threaten  to  call  in  the  aid  of  the  'Capitaneria  del  Porto''  or 
superintendent  of  the  port.  On  arriving  at  the  vessel,  payment  should 
not  be  made  until  the  traveller  with  all  his  luggage  is  deposited  on  deck. 

The  passenger  gives  up  his  ticket  on  board,  receives  the  number  oi 
his  berth,  superintends  the  stowing  away  of  his  luggage,  and  finally  repairs 
to  the  deck  to  observe  the  progress  of  the  vessel  as  it  quits  the  harbour 
of  which  a  fine  view  is  generally  obtained. 

Diligences.  Southern  Italy  is  now  so  well  provided  with,  rail- 
ways that  only  those  travellers  who  seek  a  more  particular  acquaint- 
ance with  the  country  and  its  people  have  occasion  to  use  the 
Diligenze  or  Vetture  Corrieri.  These  vehicles  ply  regularly  only  on 
the  chief  routes,  hut  even  on  the  other  roads  there  is  seldom  any 
difficulty  in  obtaining  a  conveyance.  On  the  more  frequented  routes 
a  Carriage  with  one  horse  may  generally  he  hired  for  3/4-l  fr.,  and 
on  the  less  frequented  for  ^j^/iix.  per  English  mile. 

Walking  Tours.  An  Italian  never  walks  if  he  can  possihly 
drive;  to  him  it  is  an  inscrutable  mystery  how  walking  can  afford 
pleasure.  In  the  more  frequented  districts,  however,  such  as  the 
environs  of  Naples,  the  inhabitants  are  accustomed  to  this  mania  of 
travellers  from  the  north ;  and  the  numerous  sections  of  the  Italian 
Alpine  Club,  founded  for  the  exploration  of  the  Italian  Alps  as  well 
as  of  the  Apennines,  have  also  introduced  the  habit  among  the 
native  cultivated  classes.  Prolonged  and  fatiguing  walking-tours, 
such  as  are  undertaken  in  more  northern  climates,  will  be  found 
impracticable  in  Italy.  Cool  and  clear  weather  should  if  possible 
be  selected,  and  exposure  to  the  scirocco  studiously  avoided.  The 
height  of  summer  is  totally  unsuitable  for  tours  of  this  kind. 

Riding.  A  horse  (cavallo),  mule  (mulo),  or  donkey  (sommaro  ; 
Neapol.  ciuco  ;  Sicil.  vettura,  applied  to  all  three  animals),  between 
which  the  difference  of  expense  is  trifling,  often  affords  a  pleasant 
and  cheap  mode  of  travelling,  especially  in  mountainous  districts, 
where  the  attendant  (pedone)  also  acts  as  a  servant  for  the  time 
being.  Side-saddles  for  ladies  are  also  generally  procurable.  A 
bargain  should  be  made  previously ,  tutto  compreso ,  a  gratuity 
being  added  if  the  traveller  is  satisfied.  The  donkey-drivers  have 
an  unpleasant  habit  of  inciting  their  animals  to  the  top  of  their 
speed  when  passing  through  a  town  or  village,  and  it  is  as  well  to 
warn  them  beforehand  that  their  'mancia'  will  suffer  if  they  do  not 
go  quietly  through  the  streets. 


HOTELS.  xix 

VII.  Hotels.    Private  Apartments. 

First  Class  Hotels,  comfortably  fitted  up,  are  to  be  found  at 
Naples  and  some  of  the  places  in  its  vicinity,  at  Brindisi,  Palermo, 
Messina,  Catania,  and  Girgenti,  the  landlords  of  many  of  them  being 
Swiss  or  Germans.  Rooms  21/2-5fr.,  bougie  75c. -1  fr.,  attendance 
1  fr.  (exclusive  of  the  portier  and  frequently  also  of  the  'facchino' 
or  boots),  table-d'hote  4-6  fr.,  and  so  on.  The  charge  for  dinner  does 
not  include  wine,  which  is  usually  dear.  For  a  prolonged  stay  an 
agreement  may  generally  be  made  for  pension  at  a  more  moderate 
rate.  Visitors  are  expected  to  dine  at  the  table-d'hote ;  otherwise 
they  are  charged  more  for  their  rooms.  Meals  served  at  special 
hours  or  in  the  travellers'  apartments  are  charged  considerably  more. 
A  charge  of  l-l'/2  fr-  is  generally  made  for  the  use  of  the  hotel- 
omnibus  from  the  station;  a  cab  is  therefore  often  cheaper  and  more 
expeditious,  while  it  offers  the  additional  advantage  of  enabling  the 
traveller  to  proceed  at  once  elsewhere  if  he  is  dissatisfied  with  the 
accommodation  offered  in  the  hotel  he  may  have  selected  first. 

The  numerous  Pensions  in  or  near  Naples,  often  kept  by 
English  or  German  ladies ,  are  usually  comfortable ,  clean ,  and 
moderate.  Passing  travellers  are  received  at  many  of  them  even 
for  a  day  or  two.  As  the  price  of  dejeuner  is  usually  (though  not 
universally)  included  in  the  fixed  daily  charge,  the  traveller  must 
either  sacrifice  some  of  the  best  hours  for  sight-seeing  and  excursions, 
or  pay  for  a  meal  he  does  not  consume. 

Second  Class  Inns  may  usually  be  found,  especially  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Naples,  offering  a  reasonable  amount  of  comfort 
and  convenience.  It  is  usual  in  these  houses  to  arrange  for  a  pension- 
charge  (even  for  a  single  day),  in  which  wine  is  generally  included. 
In  the  larger  towns,  as  in  Northern  and  Central  Italy,  these  inns 
generally  have  a  trattoria  in  connection  with  them.  Room  1V2-3, 
light  and  attendance  1  fr.  per  day.  Enquiry  as  to  charges,  however, 
should  always  be  made  beforehand ;  and  in  bargaining  for  a  room 
the  'servizio  e  candela'  should  not  be  forgotten.  An  extortionate 
bill  may  even  be  reduced  though  no  previous  agreement  has  been 
made,  but  never  without  long  and  vehement  discussions.  Attendance 
is  generally  included  in  the  charge  for  rooms ;  but  if  not,  1  fr.  per 
day  may  be  divided  between  the  waiter  and  the  facchino,  or  less 
for  a  prolonged  stay.  —  Travellers  should  not  omit  to  provide 
themselves  with  matches  (comp.  p.  27). 

The  recommendations  etc.  of  landlords  with  reference  to  hotels  in 
other  towns  should  be  disregarded,  as  they  are  rarely  disinterested. 

Money  and  other  valuables  should  never  be  left  in  the  traveller's 
apartment,  but  should  either  be  carried  on  the  person  or  deposited 
with  the  landlord  in  exchange  for  a  receipt. 

Privatb  Apartments  are  recommended  for  a  prolonged  stay. 
A  distinct  agreement  as  to  rent  should  be  made  beforehand.  When 
a  house  or  a  whole  suite  of  apartments  is  hired,  a  written  contract 

b* 


xx  PRIVATE  APARTMENTS. 

on  stamped  paper  should  be  drawn  up  with  the  aid  of  some  one 
aquainted  with  the  language  and  customs  of  the  place  (e.g.  a  banker), 
in  order  that  all  legal  formalities  may  be  duly  observed  and  'mis- 
understandings' prevented.  To  sign  such  a  contract  without  reliable 
advice  is  distinctly  dangerous.  For  single  travellers  a  verbal  agree- 
ment with  regard  to  attendance,  linen,  stoves  and  carpets  in  winter, 
a  receptacle  for  coal,  and  other  details,  will  generally  suffice.  Comp. 
p.  xx vi. 

The  popular  idea  of  cleanliness  in  Southern  Italy  is  behind  the  age, 
dirt  being  perhaps  neutralised  in  the  opinion  of  the  natives  by  the  bril- 
liancy of  their  climate.  The  traveller  will  rarely  suffer  from  this  short- 
coming in  the  better  hotels  and  lodgings  even  of  the  second  class  ;  but  those 
who  quit  the  beaten  track  must  be  prepared  for  privations.  In  the  village- 
inns  the  pig  (animate  nero)  is  a  privileged  inmate,  and  the  poultry  are  freely 
admitted.  Iron  bedsteads  should  if  possible  be  selected,  as  being  less 
infested  by  the  enemies  of  repose.  Insect-powder  (polvere  insetticida, 
or  contro  gli  insetti,  or  Keating's  ;  better  procured  before  leaving  home)  or 
camphor  should  be  plentifully  sprinkled  on  the  bedsand  on  the  traveller's 
clothing  in  places  of  doubtful  cleanliness.  The  zanzare,  or  mosquitoes,  are 
a  source  of  great  annoyance,  and  even  of  suffering,  in  summer  and  autumn. 
Windows  should  always  be  carefully  closed  before  a  light  is  introduced  into 
the  room.  Light  muslin  curtains  (zanzarieri)  round  the  beds,  masks  for  the 
face,  and  gloves  are  used  to  ward  off  the  attacks  of  these  pertinacious 
intruders.  The  burning  of  insect-powder  over  a  spirit-lamp  is  also  re- 
commended, and  pastilles  for  the  same  purpose  may  be  purchased  at  the 
principal  chemists1.  A  weak  solution  of  carbolic  acid  is  efficacious  in 
allaying  the  irritation  caused  by  the  bites. 

A  list  of  the  Italian  names  of  the  ordinary  articles  of  underclothing 
(la  liancheria)  will  be  useful  in  dealing  with  the  washerwoman:  shirt 
(.linen,  cotton,  woollen),  la  cai/iicia  (di  tela,  di  cotone,  di  lana);  collar,  it 
solino;  cuff,  ilpolsino;  drawers,  lemutande;  woollen  undershirt,  una  fia- 
iiella,  or  giuba  di  flanella;  petticoat,  la  sottana ;  stocking,  la  calza;  sock, 
la  calzetfa;  handkerchief  (silk),  il  fazoletto  (di  seta).  To  give  out  to  wash, 
dare  abucalo  (di  bucato,  newly  washed);  washing-list,  nota;  washerwoman, 
laundress,  la  lavandaja,  la  siiratrice. 

VIII.     Restaurants ,  Cafes. 

Restaurants  of  the  first  class  do  not  exist  in  Southern  Italy ; 
even  in  Naples  good  French  cookery  is  to  be  found  only  in  the  large 
hotel*.  The  national  Trattorie,  however,  are  sometimes  very  good; 
and  even  in  the  smaller  towns  the  traveller  will  have  little  difficulty 
in  finding  a  tolerable,  though  not  always  scrupulously  clean,  establish- 
ment of  this  kind.  In  Sicily  a  trattoria  is  usually  called  Caffe.  They 
<ire  generally  open  from  11  a.m.  (for  the  Collazione  or  de'jeuner), 
and  are  visually  closed  about  8  p.m.  Dinner  (Prrmzo)  is  usually 
taken  between  5  and  8;  either  alia  carta  for  l'/2-3  fr.,  or  some- 
times a  prezzo  fisso  for  2-5  fr.  Italian  customers  have  no  hesitation 
in  ordering  away  ill-cooked  or  stale  viands,  and  they  often  inspect 
the  fish  or  meat  before  it  is  cooked  and  make  a  bargain  as  to  the  price. 
Wine  is  usually  brought  in  open  bottles  (p.  xxii).  The  diner  calls 
for  the  bill  witli  the  words  'il  conto'.  The  waiter  (cameriere)  expects 
a  gratuity  of  2-5  soldi.  If  too  importunate  in  his  recommendations  or 
suggestions,  he  may  be  checked  with  the  word  %/stii'.  —  Residents 
for  some  time  in  a  town  should  arrange  to  pay  a  monthly  subscription 


RESTAURANTS. 


('pensione' )  at  a  lower  rate,  or,  as  is  customary  in  Sicily,  stipulate  for 

a  reduction  (sconto)  of  price,  on  condition  taking  so  many  meals  a 

month  in  the  selected  caffe. 

List  of  the  ordinary  dishes  at  the  Italian  restaurants  :  — 

Anlipasti,  relishes  or  whets 
Minestra,  or  Zuppa,  soup. 


Brodo  or  Consume,  broth  or  bouillon. 

Zuppa  alia  Sante,  soup  with  green 
vegetables  and  bread. 

Minestra  di  riso  con  piselli,  rice-soup 
with  peas. 

Risotto,  a  kind  of  rice-pudding  (rich). 

Paste  asciutte,  maccaroni;  al  sugo  e 
al  burro,  with  sauce  and  butter  ; 
al  pomidoro,  with  tomatoes. 

Came  lessa,  bollita,  boiled  meat;  in 
umido,  alia  genovese,  with  sauce ; 
ben  cotlo,  well  done ;  al  sangue,  al 
inglese,  underdone;  aiferri,  cooked 
on  the  gridiron. 

Fritto,  fried  meat. 

Manzo,  beef. 

Arroslo,  roasted  meat. 

Bistecca,  beefsteak. 

Majale,  pork. 

Arista,  chine  of  pork. 

Agnello,  lamb. 

Capretto,  kid. 

Monione,  mutton. 

Arroslo  di  vitello,  roast-veal. 

Testa  di  vitello,  calf's  head. 

Fegato  di  vitello,  calf's  liver. 

Costoletta  or  bracciola  di  vitello,  veal- 
cutlet. 

Costolella  alia  Milanese,  veal-cutlet 
baked  in  dough. 

Esgaloppe,  veal- cutlet  in  bread- 
crumbs. 

Ostriche,  oysters  (good  in  winter  only). 

Pesce,  fish. 

Sfoglia,  a  kind  of  sole. 

Toiino,  tunny. 

Presciutto,  ham. 

Salame,  sausage  (usually  with  garlic, 
ctglio). 

Uova,  egg;  da  bere,  soft;  dure,  hard; 
al  piatlo,  poached. 

Aniira,  duck. 

Polio,  fowl. 


Polio  oV  India  or  Dindio,  turkey. 

Tordo,  field-fare. 

Crochelti,  croquettes. 

Qnocchi,  small  puddings. 

Stufatino,  cibrio,  ragout. 

Contorno  ,  Guarnizione ,  garnishing, 
vegetables,  usually  not  charged  for. 

Patate,  potatoes. 

Insalata,  salad. 

Polenta,  maize-soup. 

Carciofi,  artichokes. 

Asparagi,  asparagus. 

Spinaci,  spinach. 

Piselli,  peas. 

Lenticchie,  lentils. 

Cavoli  fiori,   cauliflower. 

Fave,  beans. 

Fagivolini  or  Cornetti,  French  beans. 

Funghi,  mushrooms  (often  too  rich). 

Sale,  salt. 

Pepe,  pepper. 

Mostarda  francese,  sweet  mustard. 

Senape,  Mostarda  inglese,  hot  mustard. 

Frutta  or  Giardinetto,  fruit- desert; 
frulta  secche  ,  nuts,  raisins,  al- 
monds, etc. 

Crostata  di  frutti,  fruit-tart. 

Crostata  di  pasta  sfoglia,  a  kind  of 
pastry. 

Dolce,  pudding. 

Fritlata,  omelette. 

Fragole,  strawberries. 

Per  a,  pear. 

Mele,  apples. 

Persici,  Pesche,  peaches. 

Uve,  grapes. 

Fichi,  figs. 

Noci,  nuts. 

Limone,  lemon. 

Arancio,  orange. 

Pane  francese  or  meranico,  bread  made 
with  yeast  (the  Italian  is  without). 

Finocchio,  root  of  fennel. 

Formaggio,  or  in  S.  Italy  caccio, 
cheese. 


The  Maccaroni  of  Naples  is  much  esteemed,  but  is  generally  hard, 
and  should  therefore  be  ordered  'ben  cotti'.  It  is  usually  llavoured  with 
pomi  a"oro  (tomatoes),  of  which  the  Neapolitans  are  very  fond.  Sea-fish 
and  ragosta ,  a  kind  of  lobster ,  excellent.  Shell-fish  soup  (zuppa  di  von- 
gole),  a  good  but  indigestible  dish. 

Cafes  are  frequented  for  breakfast  and  luncheon  ,  and  in  the 
evening  by  numerous  consumers  of  ices. 

Cafe  noir  (Gaffe  nero)  is  most  commonly  drunk  (15-25  c.  per  cup). 
Gaffe  latte  is  coffee  mixed  with  milk  before  served  (30-35  c. ;  'capuccino\  or 
small  cup,  cheaper);  or  coffee  latte,  i.e.  with|the  milk  served  separately,  may 
be  preferred.    The  usual  viands  for  lunch  are  liam,  sau-age-',  cullet-i     and 


xxii  SIGHTS,  THEATRES,  SHOPS. 

eggs.  Ices  (gelato)  of  every  conceivable  variety  are  supplied  at  the  cafe's, 
particularly  at  Naples,  at  30-90  c.  per  portion ;  or  half-a-portion  (mezza)  may 
generally  be  ordered.  Sorbello,  or  half-frozen  ice,  and  Granita,  or  iced 
water  (limonata,  of  lemons;  aranciata,  of  oranges;  di  caffe,  of  coffee),  is 
chiefly  in  vogue  in  the  forenoon. 

The  Wine  Shops  (Osterie)  are  almost  exclusively  frequented  by 
the  lower  ranks.  In  shops  outside  the  towns  the  wine  is  very  cheap 
and  often  excellent.  The  numbers  on  the  outside  of  the  shops  (4, 
5,  6  etc.)  indicate  the  price  per  1/2  lltre  in  soldi-  Bread,  cheese, 
and  eggs  are  usually  the  only  viands  provided. 

Wine  (vino  da  pasta,  table-wine;  nero,  red;  bianco,  white;  pastaso, 
sweet;  asciutto,  dry;  del  paese,  wine  of  the  country)  is  usually  supplied 
in  bottles  one-half  or  one-fifth  of  a  litre  (un  mezzo  litro ;  un  quinto  or  bicchiere). 
Wines  of  a  better  quality  are  sold  in  ordinary  quarts  and  pints. 

Cigars  (sigaro)  in  Italy  are  a  monopoly  of  Government,  and  bad. 
The  prices  of  the  home-made  cigars  (Scelti  Bomani,  Virginias,  Ve- 
vays,  Cavours,  Napolitani,  etc.)  vary  from  7^2  to  18  c.  Good  im- 
ported cigars  may  be  bought  at  the  best  shops  in  the  large  towns  for 
25-60  c,  and  also  foreign  cigarettes.  —  Passers-by  are  at  liberty  to 
avail  themselves  of  the  light  burning  in  every  tobacconist's,  without 
making  any  purchase. 

IX.     Sights,  Theatres,  Shops. 

Churches  are  open  in  the  morning  till  12,  and  generally  again 
from  2-4  to  7  p.m.  Visitors  may  inspect  the  works  of  art  even 
during  divine  service ,  provided  they  move  about  noiselessly,  and 
keep  aloof  from  the  altar  where  the  clergy  are  officiating.  On  the 
occasion  of  festivals  and  for  a  week  or  two  before  Easter  the  works 
of  art  are  often  temporarily  covered.  Those  which  are  always  covered 
are  shown  by  the  verger  (sagrestano)  for  a  small  gratuity  (p.  xv). 
—  For  the  use  of  a  chair  in  the  churches  a  charge  of  5  c.  is  fre- 
quently made. 

Museums,  picture-galleries ,  and  other  collections  are  usually 
open  from  10  to  4  o'clock.  All  the  collections  which  belong  to 
government  are  open  on  week-days  at  a  charge  of  1  ft.,  and  on 
Sundays  gratis.  Artists,  but  not  scholars  or  authors,  are  always  ad- 
mitted without  charge.  The  attendants  are  forbidden  to  accept 
gratuities.   The  collections  are  closed  on  public  holidays. 

The  Museo  Nazionale  at  Naples,  for  instance,  is  closed  on  New  Year's 
Day,  Epiphany  (6th  Jan.),  the  king's  birthday  (14th  Mar.),  Easter  Sunday, 
Ascension  Day,  Whitsunday,  Corpus  Christi,  Festa  dello  Statuto  (first 
Sunday  in  June),  Day  of  SS.  Peter  &  Paul  (29th  June),  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin  (15th  Aug.),  Birth  of  the  Virgin  (8th  Sept.),  St.  Januarius  (19th 
Sept.),  All  Saints'  -Day  (1st  Nov.),  Feast  of  the  Conception  (8th  Dec.)  and 
on  Christmas  Day.  ' 

Theatres.    The  performances  at  the  larger  theatres,  beginning 
at  8,  8.  30,   or  9,   and  ending  at  midnight  or  later ,   consist  ex- 
clusively of  operas    and  ballets  ,    the  first  act  of  an  opera    beins 
usually  succeeded  by  a  ballet  of  three  or  more  acts.  The  pit  (platea) 
to  which  holders  of   the  ordinary  biglietto  d'ingresso  are  admitted 
is    the  usual  resort   of  the  men.     For  the  reserved  seats  (scanni 


POST  OFFICE.  xxiii 

chiusi,  sedie  chime ,  poltrone ,  posti  distinti)  and  boxes  (palco)  ad- 
ditional tickets  must  be  taken.  Ladies  of  course  engage  a  box,  or 
at  least  reserved  seats.  These  seats  should  always  be  secured  in  ad- 
vance. —  The  theatre  is  a  favourite  evening-resort  of  the  Italians, 
and  silence  during  the  performance  of  the  music  is  never  very 
strictly  observed. 

Shops  rarely  have  fixed  prices.  As  a  rule  two-thirds  or  three- 
quarters  of  the  price  asked  should  be  offered  (comp.  p.  25).  'Non 
volete?'  (then  you  will  not?)  is  a  remark  which  generally  has  the 
effect  of  bringing  the  matter  to  a  speedy  adjustment.  Purchases 
should  never  be  made  by  the  traveller  when  accompanied  by  a  valet- 
de-place.  These  individuals,  by  tacit  agreement,  receive  at  least  10 
per  cent  of  the  purchase-money,  which  of  course  comes  out  of  the 
purchaser's  pocket. 

X.  Post  Office.   Telegraph. 

In  the  larger  towns  the  Post  Office  is  open  daily  from  8  a.m.  to 
8  or  8.30  p.m.  (also  on  Sundays  and  holidays),  in  smaller  places  it 
is  generally  closed  in  the  middle  of  the  day  for  two  or  three  hours. 

Letters  (whether  lposte  restante',  Italian  '/erma  in  posta\  or  to 
the  traveller's  hotel)  should  be  addressed  very  distinctly,  and  the 
name  of  the  place  should  be  in  Italian.  When  asking  for  letters  the 
traveller  should  present  his  visiting-card  instead  of  giving  his  name 
orally.  Postage-stamps  (francobolli)  are  sold  at  the  post-offices  and 
at  many  of  the  tobacco-shops.  The  Italian  for  letter-box  is  Buca  or 
Cassetta  (for  letters,  per  le  lettere;  for  printed  papers,  per  le  stampe~). 

Letters  of  15  grammes  P/2  oz.,  about  the  weight  of  three  sous)  by 
town-post  5  c,  to  the  rest  of  Italy  20  c,  abroad  (per  Veslero)  to  any  of 
the  states  included  in  the  postal  union  (now  comprising  the  whole  of 
Europe  as  well  as  the  United  States,  Canada,  etc.)  25  c.  The  penalty 
(segnatassa)  for  insufficiently  prepaid  letters  is  considerable.  —  Postcards 
(cartolina  postale)  for  both  Italy  (white)  and  abroad  (green)  10  c,  reply- 
cards  (con  risposla  pagata),  inland  15  c,  for  abroad 20c.  —  Book-packets 
(stampe  sotto  fascia)  2c.  per  50grammes,  for  abroad  5c.  —  Kegistration- 
fee  (raccommandazione)  for  letters  for  the  same  town  and  printed  matter 
10  c,  otherwise  25  c.  The  packet  or  letter  must  be  inscribed  Craccomun- 
data^),  and  the  stamps  must  he  affixed  in  front  at  the  different  corners. 
—  Post  Office  Orders  payable  in  Italy,  for  sums  not  exceeding  10Z.,  are 
now  granted  by  the  English  Post  Office  at  the  following  rates :  not  exceed- 
ing 21.,  Gd. ;  bl.,  Is.;  11.,  Is.  fid.;  101.,  2s.  These  are  paid  in  gold.  The 
identity  of  the  receiver  must  be  guaranteed  by  two  well-known  residents 
(perhaps  the  innkeeper  and  one  of  his  friends  or  assistants).  The  charge 
for  money-orders  granted  in  Italy  and  payable  in  England  is  40  c.  per  11. 
sterling. 

A  Parcel  Post  exists  between  Italy  and  Great  Britain,  the  rates  and 
conditions  of  which  may  be  ascertained  at  any  post-office.  The  parcels 
must  be  carefully  packed  and  fastened  and  may  not  contain  anything  in 
the  shape  of  a  letter;  and  a  custom-house  declaration  must  be  filled  up 
for  each.  Articles  such  as  flowers,  etc.,  not  liable  to  duty  are  best  sent 
as  samples  of  no  value  (campione  senza  valore)  in  Italy  2  c.  per  50  gr., 
abroad  10  c. 

Telegrams.  For  telegrams  to  foreign  countries  the  following  rate  per 
word  is  charged  in  addition  to  an  initial  payment  of  1  fr. :  Great  Britain 
26  c,  France  14,  Germany  14,  Switzerland  6-14,  Austria  6-14,  Belgium  19, 


xxiv  CLIMATE.    HEALTH. 

Holland  23,  Denmark  23,  Eus.-ia42,  No;  way  34,  Sweden  26  c.  —  To  America 
fiom  33/4  fr.  per  word  upwards,  according  to  the  distance.  —  In  Italy, 
15  words  1  fr.,  each  additional  word  6  c.  Telegrams  with  special  ha*te 
(telgrt.mmi  nrgenti),  which  take  precedence  of  all  others,  may  he  sent  in 
Italy  at  thiice  the  above  rates. 

XI.     Climate  and  Health  of  Naples. 
Climate.    The  hills  in  the  vicinity  of  Naples  only  afford  it  par- 
tial protection  against  the  -winds.    The  Posilipo  and  the  heights  of 
S.  Elmo  and  Capodimonte  shelter  it  tolerably  well  on  the  N.W. 
and  N.  ;    but  the  N.E.  (Tramontana),    S.E.  (Scirocco),    and  S.W. 
(TAbeccio)  winds  are  opposed  by  no  such  natural  barrier.  The  alter- 
nation of  these  air-currents  from  the  N.  and  S.  exercises  the  most 
material  influence  upon  the  temperature  of  the  different  seasons 
at  Naples ,  and  is  the  usual  cause  of  the   extreme  variations  which 
sometimes  occur  in  the  course  of  a  single  day.   September  is  almost 
invariably  hot  and  oppressive,  but  the  first  half  of  October  is  usu- 
ally much  cooler,  the  mean  temperature  being  about  65°  Fahr.  and 
the  sky  generally  bright  and  cloudless.    In  November  the  rainy  S. 
wind  prevails,  while  in  December,  -when  the  N.  wind  blows,  many 
fine  days   are  enjoyed.     The  weather  at  this   season  is  often  re- 
markably mild.  The  mean  winter  temperature  is  about  50°,  but  in 
the  cold  nights  of  January  the  thermometer  sometimes  sinks  5-6° 
below  freezing-point.    Snow  seldom  falls  in  Naples  itself,  but  in 
January  the  surrounding  mountains  are  sometimes  covered  with  a 
mantle  of  snow  which  imparts  a  bitter  keenness  to  the  E.  and  N.E. 
winds.   Fogs  are  very  rare.   Towards  the  end  of  January,  or  in  Feb- 
ruary at  latest,   the  S.  winds  again  predominate,  and  a  rainy  sea- 
son  sets  in,    which  often  lasts  till  April.     March  resembles   an 
English  April  in  its  changeableness,  while  April  (mean  tempera- 
ture 60°)  is  perhaps   the  most  delightful  month  of  the  whole  year. 
May  (68°)  is  also  an  exceedingly  pleasant  month.     In  June,  July, 
and  August  the  prevalent  winds  are  from  the  N.  and  N.E.    The 
heat  sometimes  rises  to  100°  (mean  72-77°),  but  is  pleasantly  tem- 
pered by  the  sea-wind,  which  rises  in  the  forenoon  and  blows  till 
about  2  p.m.,  an  advantage  unknown  at  Rome  or  Florence. 

In  Mt.  Vesuvius  the  Neapolitans  possess  a  gigantic  barometer. 
The  direction  in  which  the  smoke  issuing  from  the  crater  blows 
often  announces  a  change  of  weather  twenty-four  hours  beforehand. 
When  it  blows  towards  Capri  ,  good  weather  may  be  expected  (in 
winter  a  clear  sky  and  cool  temperature);  when  it  is  turned  towards 
Ischia,  we  may  look  for  E.  wind  (Greco  Levante)  and  cold  weather. 
Indications  of  the  approach  of  the  Scirocco  are  specially  important 
as  during  the  prevalence  of  this  depressing  wind,  perfect  repose  is 
desirable.  Thus,  when  the  crater  is  concealed  by  a  thick  layer  of 
clouds,  we  may  expect  S.  wind,  often  accompanied  by  heavy  rain. 
Another  premonition  of  the  scirocco  is  afforded  when  Capri  appears 
of  a  dark  blue  colour  and  unusually  near  and  distinct.    Long    low 


CLIMATE.    HEALTH.  xxv 

and  regular  -waves  rolling  in  from  the  Bocca  Piccola  also  as  a  nilo 
betoken  the  approach  of  the  soirocoo. 

Health.  The  sanitary  condition  of  Naples  has  greatly  improved 
of  late  years  and  is  on  the  whole  not  unsatisfactory.  The  mistaken 
idea,  however,  that  no  change  whatever  need  be  made  in  his  mode 
of  life  often  exposes  the  traveller  to  risks  which  a  little  caution 
would  easily  evade.  The  principal  danger  to  visitors  to  Naples  con- 
sists in  the  so-called  Neapolitan  fever,  a  variety  of  typhus  to  which 
numerous  strangers  fall  a  prey.  In  the  great  majority  of  cases, 
however,  this  illness  takes  a  favourable  course ;  and  it  is  only  when 
complicated  with  other  maladies  that  danger  to  life  need  be  feared. 
By  far  the  most  important  of  the  modern  improvements  is  the  con- 
struction of  the  immense  Aqueduct  (Acqua  di  Serino),  which  now 
brings  a  copious  supply  of  good  water  to  the  town  from  the  Serino 
a  river  in  the  Apennines,  several  miles  distant.  Measures  have 
also  been  taken  to  open  up  the  crowded  and  infected  lanes  and 
alleys  by  demolishing  houses  and  forming  new  streets,  and  finally 
a  general  sewerage  system  for  the  whole  town  has  been  begun. 

Whatever  be  the  primary  causes  of  the  often  exaggerated  evil 
sanitary  reputation  of  Naples,  the  immediate  or  exciting  cause  may 
almost  invariably  be  traced  to  imprudence  on  the  part  of  the  trav- 
ellers, especially  of  those  who  wish  to  see  everything  in  the  shortest 
possible  time,  allow  themselves  no  time  for  repose,  and  neglect 
the  commonest  sanitary  precautions.  It  cannot  be  too  emphatic- 
ally asserted  that  nearly  all  the  acute  diseases  by  which  visitors 
to  Naples  are  attacked  are  due  to  imprudences  in  diet ,  to  ne- 
glected colds,  or  to  excessive  fatigue.  Even  the  hardiest  traveller 
from  the  N.  should  take  the  utmost  care  in  avoiding  these  three 
provocatives  of  disease.  On  the  smallest  symptom  of  indisposition, 
all  excursions  should  be  given  up  until  the  nervous  system  has 
recovered  its  usual  tone.  A  physician  should  also  be  consulted. 
Malarial  affections  are  most  generally  incurred  on  excursions 
to  Lago  Agnano  or  Baiae,  or  other  places  in  the  Phlegraean  Fields. 
Psstum  and  the  railway -journey  through  the  Roman  Campagna 
are  also  more  or  less  dangerous  in  this  respect.  The  best  pro- 
phylactic measures  consist  in  warm  clothing,  an  avoidance  of  the 
hours  of  sunset,  and  the  shutting  of  the  windows  in  the  railway- 
carriage.  Those  who,  notwithstanding  all  precautions,  are  attacked 
by  malaria  should  at  once  seek  change  of  air  in  Sorrento,  Capri, 
or  La  Cava.  Naples  is  often  trying  for  persons  with  weak  lungs 
on  account  of  the  sudden  changes  of  temperature  in  winter,  and 
such  persons  should  not  fix  their  abode  here  without  medical  ad- 
vice. Pozzuoli  or  Capri  is  generally  much  more  congenial  to  pa- 
tients of  this  class. 

Rooms,  or  at  least  bedrooms,  facing  the  S.  are  almost  essential 
for  the  delicate  and  highly  desirable  for  the  robust.  If  such  can- 
not be  obtained  ,   those  facing  the  W.  are  the  next  best  in  win- 


xxvi  CLIMATE.    HEALTH. 

ter,  those  facing  theE.  in  summer.  Corner  rooms  and  lodgings 
on  the  ground-floor  should  be  avoided.  The  uppermost  floors  of 
house  are  often  damp  on  account  of  the  thinness  of  the  walls  and 
ceilings.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  all  the  doors  and  win- 
dows close  satisfactorily.  The  healthiest  parts  of  the  town  are  the 
Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  the  Rione  Principe  Amedeo,  and  the  Pizzo- 
faleone.  The  upper  part  of  the  Strada  Santa  Lucia  may  be  recom- 
mended to  those  who  do  not  fear  a  little  wind  and  dust.  There  are 
also  numerous  comfortable  and  healthy  dwellings  in  the  Strada 
Chiatamone  ,  the  Riviera  di  Chiaja ,  and  the  Mergellina ,  although 
the  drains  here  emptying  themselves  into  the  sea  often  pollute  the 
air  very  perceptibly  when  the  wind  blows  inshore.  One  of  the 
physicians  mentioned  at  p.  2i  should,  however,  in  this  case  be 
consulted  in  the  choice  of  a  dwelling,  as  many  of  the  houses  here 
are  so  defective  in  hygienic  arrangements  that  they  are  positively 
unhealthy  and  dangerous. 

The  visitor  to  Naples  should  as  a  general  rule  wear  warmer 
clothing  than  he  would  at  home  in  a  similar  temperature.  Natives 
are  generally  much  more  careful  in  this  respect  than  strangers,  as 
they  know  from  experience  that  a  cold  at  Naples  is  too  likely  to 
usher  in  a  severe  illness.  The  traveller  should  therefore  always  he 
provided  with  a  greatcoat  or  shawl,  which  he  should  make  use  of  in 
the  evening,  when  sitting  in  a  carriage  or  boat,  or  when  exposed 
to  sudden  alternations  of  sun  and  shade.  Exposure  to  the  summer 
sun  should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible,  and  a  sunshade  should 
be  used  both  in  walking  and  driving.  Long  walks  should  be 
avoided  as  much  as  possible;  fortunately  the  low  fares  of  the  cabs 
and  tramways  make  driving  comparatively  inexpensive.  It  is  also 
necessary  to  he  warmly  covered  during  sleep ;  the  supply  of  bed- 
clothes at  the  hotels  and  lodging-houses  is  often  apt  to  be  scanty. 

Moderation  in  eating  and  drinking  is  ,  of  course,  imperative. 
The  appetite  gradually  decreases  under  a  southern  sun,  but  at  first 
strangers  are  sometimes  apt  to  eat  excessive  quantities  of  macca- 
roni,  cheese,  fruit,  etc.  The  traveller  should  adopt  the  Neapolitan 
custom  of  rejecting  fish  that  are  not  quite  fresh.  Oysters  are  also 
dangerous  here  when  not  fresh ;  and  cases  of  typhus  have  been 
traced  to  the  consumption  of  oysters  from  S.  Lucia  (p.  36),  where 
the  shell-fish  are  kept  in  undesirable  proximity  to  the  mouths  of 
the  sewers.  It  is  safer,  therefore,  to  dispense  with  this  luxury  al- 
together. Ripe  fruit  eaten  in  moderation  at^  meals  is  perfectly 
wholesome  ,  but  the  fruit  offered  at  table-d'hote  even  in  the  best 
hotels  is  often  unripe  ,  as  the  Neapolitans  prefer  it  in  this  state. 
Water-melons  (Anguria)  and  the  figs  of  the  Indian  cactus  are  bet- 
ter left  untouched.  A  free  indulgence  in  fruit  should  be  especially 
avoided  in  autumn,  when  the  excessive  heat  predisposes  to  diar- 
rhoea. The  Sorbe,  a  kind  of  fruit  resembling  the  medlar  and  con- 
taining a  large  quantity  of  tannin,   is  often  useful  in  counteract- 


CLIMATE.    HEALTH.  xxvii 

inga  diarrhceic  tendency.  A  dozen  or  so  of  this  fruit  may  be  eaten 
at  once  without  fear  of  prejudicial  consequences.  Diarrhoea  induced 
by  'violent  exertion  in  hot  weather  may  often  be  cured  by  the  use 
of  Oranita  (p.  xxii).  Rice  and  the  homoeopathic  tincture  of  cam- 
phor are  also  common  remedies,  but  thorough  repose  is  the  chief 
desideratum.  The  ordinary  red  wines  of  the  country  are  usually  sound 
and  good,  and  a  moderate  use  of  them  when  pure  may  be  thoroughly 
recommended.  Those  who  find  them  unpalatable  should  drink  claret. 
The  native  white  wines,  though  generally  lighter  than  the  red,  are 
too  astringent  in  their  action. 


ANCIENT  ART, 

from  the  German  of 

Prof.  Reinhard  Kekule. 

Wir  tragen 
Die  Trammer  hiniiber 
Und  klagen 

Uber  die  verlume  Sehone ! 
(Goethe). 

The  traveller  whose  attention  is  directed  to  the  treasures  of 
the  National  Museum  at  Naples,  to  the  relics  of  antiquity  scattered 
throughout  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily,  and  who,  possibly  setting 
foot  on  the  soil  of  Attica,  finds  himself,  if  favoured  by  fortune,  in 
the  presence  of  her  glorious  ruins  —  has  in  all  probability  had 
his  appetite  whetted  in  Rome,  and  has  there  collected  such  data  as 
he  will  readily  apply  to  all  that  presents  itself  as  new  to  his  obser- 
vation. But  even  he  who  turns  himself  at  once  to  the  contemplation 
of  an  heritage  of  antiquity  such  as  that  comprised  in  the  favoured 
regions  of  Campania  and  Sicily  has  the  promise  of  a  rich  and  ab- 
undant harvest,  if  he  but  know  how  to  prize  its  fruits. 

The  National  Museum  partakes  in  many  of  its  departments  of 
the  same  character  as  the  Vatican  with  its  statue  world,  and  in- 
cludes many  works  in  marble  which  have  indeed  been  brought 
thither  from  Rome,  notably  those  formerly  belonging  to  the  Farnese 
family.  By  the  careful  observer  many  of  the  statues  will  be  re- 
cognised as  repetitions  of  those  already  seen  in  Rome.  They  belong 
to  the  numerous  class  of  copies  made  from  renowned  masterpieces, 
which  in  the  old  Roman  time  were  indispensable  adjuncts  to 
a  display  of  wealth  and  refinement.  Many  of  these  marbles  betray, 
owing  to  a  certain  redundancy  and  pliancy  of  outline,  a  taste 
peculiar  to  people  of  these  coasts  upon  which  Nature  has  lavished 
her  choicest  gifts.  The  exquisite  Greek  coins  remind  us  that  we  are 
in  a  land  that  was  once  the  thriving  and  envied  seat  of  Greek  cul- 
ture :  innumerable  tripods,  candelabra,  lamps,  braziers,  jars,  jugs, 
caskets,  bracelets,  needles,  house  and  kitchen-utensils  of  all  kinds, 
weapons  of  warriors  and  gladiators,  the  numerous  figures  in  bronze, 
above  all  a  stately  array  of  some  hundreds  of  wall-paintings,  unique 
in  the  world ,  indicate  with  sufficient  clearness  that  here  are  col- 
lected the  results  of  excavations  which  present  as  in  a  mirror  a 
complete  and  charming  picture  of  ancient  lite,  and  that  we  are  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Pompeii,  Herculaneum,  and 
Stabiie,  long  buried  at  the  foot  of  Vesuvius. 

His  first  impression  of  purely  Greek  art  the  Northern  traveller 


ANCIENT  ART.  xxix 

in  Italy  receives  at  Paestum.  The  drive  through  a  lonely,  silent 
country;  the  picturesque  beauty  of  the  ruins  and  landscape  with 
the  glittering  sea  in  apparently  close  proximity;  the  melancholy  re- 
flection that  these  proud  temples  before  their  decay  looked  upon 
a  thriving  Hellenic  city  amid  the  smiles  of  nature,  instead  of  a 
fever-stricken  pestilential  wilderness :  all  this  serves  so  to  excite 
the  susceptibility  of  the  beholder,  that  lie  will  find  the  impression 
produced  by  these  ruins ,  conspicuously  that  of  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter,  almost  more  overpowering  than  even  the  spectacle  of  the 
Roman  forum.  There  the  scale,  the  solidity  and  splendour  of  the 
edifices,  as  well- as  the  surpassing  wealth  of  form  and  sculptured 
ornament,  are  imposing.  Here  the  architecture  appears  externally 
poor  in  merely  superficial  decoration  :  poorer  than  it  had  originally 
been.  The  coating  of  stucco  ,  so  fine  and  firmly  set  that  it  gave  to 
the  porous  limestone  a  surface  smooth  as  marble ,  is  shattered  and 
weather-stained ,  the  forms  themselves  have  extensively  suffered  ; 
wind  and  weather  have  obliterated  the  coloured  leaves  which  de- 
corated the  heavy  collars  of  the  capitals  together  with  all  that  gay 
adornment  bestowed  according  to  Greek  custom.  But  precisely  in 
this  absence  of  adornment ,  in  a  simplicity  which  brings  to  view 
only  what  is  indispensable  and  essential,  does  this  stern  Doric 
temple  with  its  dense  array  of  mighty  columns,  with  its  lofty  and 
ponderous  entablature  and  far-reaching  projection  of  cornice,  in 
the  clear  and  simple  disposal  of  the  masses,  in  solemnity  and 
strength  of  proportion,  in  beauty  and  distinctness  of  outline,  pre- 
sent itself  as  a  revelation  of  the  spirit  of  Greek  architecture,  which 
so  fills  its  with  amazement  that  we  are  apt  to  overlook  the  very 
slight  expenditure  of  material  space  employed  to  produce  this  in- 
comparable impression  of  grandeur  and  sublimity.  One  who  has 
seen  the  ruins  of  Paestum  will  have  the  more  pleasure  in  examin- 
ing less  impressive  mementoes  of  the  Greek  ages  from  the  city  dedi- 
cated to  Poseidon  —  the  fine  monumental  paintings  from  Pfestum 
in  the  National  Museum  of  Naples :  Warriors  departing  for  the 
combat  whence  they  are  never  to  return. 

The  Temple  of  Poseidon  at  Paestum  is  ascribed  to  the  close  of 
the  6th  century  B.C.  From  a  far  remoter  past,  however,  dates 
the  fragment  of  art-history  which  we  are  enabled  to  trace  in  Seli- 
nunto,  although  it  cannot  of  course  be  deciphered  on  the  spot  from 
its  ruins  alone.  The  imagination  is  less  severely  taxed  to  supply 
all  that  is  lost  to  the  beauteous  ruins  in  Segesta  and  Oirgenti.  In 
Selinunto  the  effects  of  earthquakes  have  been  so  destructive  that  a 
clear  conception  of  the  temples  can  only  be  attained  by  reference 
to  the  architects'  plans  and  drawings.  The  sculptures  belonging  to 
these  temples,  brought  to  light  by  recent  excavations,  are  to  be  found 
in  the  Museum  of  Palermo.  The  oldest  temple,  usually  distinguish- 
ed by  the  letter  C,  is  that  on  the  Acropolis.  This  was  probably  de- 
dicated to  Apollo  as  god  of  succour,  and  was  erected  immediately 


xxx  ANCIENT  ART. 

subsequent  to  the  foundation  of  the  city,  an  event  assigned  variously 
to  B.C.  651  and  B.C.  628.  The  neighbouring  and  northernmost 
temple  of  the  Acropolis,  D,  presumably  sacred  to  Athena,  is  scarcely 
more  recent.  In  the  three  metope-reliefs  which  belong  to  the  first- 
named  temple  C,  scarcely  a  trace  of  Grecian  beauty  is  discernible; 
indeed  they  are  almost  ludicrously  primitive  and  rude.  And  yet 
they  afford  an  instructive  insight  into  the  rudimentary  Sculpture  of 
the  Greeks.  Possibly,  in  the  place  for  which  they  were  designed, 
aloft  between  the  triglyphs  of  a  Doric  frieze,  and  set  in  a  frame- 
work of  strong  and  clearly  defined  architectural  lines,  the  reliefs 
may  have  had  a  less  repulsive  effect.  But  it  is  curious  to  ob- 
serve how  the  same  stage  in  art  which  had  in  architecture  attained 
to  an  essentially  coherent  system ,  primitive  perhaps  in  its  severity 
and  unwieldiness ,  yet  conveying  the  impression  of  harmony  in  its 
completeness,  should  in  the  rendering  of  such  figures  as  would  con- 
tribute to  its  architectural  ornamentation  be  beset  by  a  childish 
restraint  and  uncertainty  of  aim ;  how  the  same  eye  that  watched 
over  the  ordered  arrangement  of  each  part  and  proportion  as 
well  as  the  delicate  rendering  of  each  line  and  ornament  of  the 
building,  could  be  content  to  give  representations  of  mythical 
events ,  which,  as  it  appears  to  us,  must  have  exhibited  an  aimless 
and  startling  conspicuousness  and  a  grotesque  vivacity,  entailing 
the  disfigurement  of  the  human  form  and  the  entire  sacrifice  of 
natural  proportion.  And  yet  in  these  characteristics  lies  the  germ 
of  a  mighty  future,  in  the  religious  enthusiasm  which  anim- 
ated the  artist  as  he  strove  to  give  intelligible  expression  to 
the  sacred  history  which  he  had  to  relate,  in  the  independence 
and  directness  with  which  he  embodied  its  purport  in  sculp- 
tured forms.  Not  that  we  can  suppose  such  scenes  to  have  been 
altogether  new  to  him.  He  might  have  seen  them  in  other 
places  and  in  earlier  times.  But  he  had  to  mould  them  anew 
and  from  his  own  individual  resources ,  without  available  pattern, 
and  without  that  readiness  in  execution  which  the  hand  can  only 
acquire  by  frequent  exercise.  The  head  of  Medusa  alone,  this 
earliest  figurative  expression  of  destruction  and  horror,  is  clearly 
and  unfailingly  pourtrayed.  To  the  artist  as  well  as  his  contem- 
poraries this  poverty  in  execution  was  not  apparent.  Their  sucess- 
ors  were  not  slow  to  make  far  different  pretensions.  If  a  kind 
fate  had  preserved  the  single  statue  of  the  youthful  god  that  stood 
in  the  sanctuary,  or  at  some  future  time  should  discover  it  to  us, 
we  should  probably  be  overwhelmed  with  astonishment  at  the  con- 
trast presented  by  the  statue  to  the  reliefs.  At  a  time  when  such 
reliefs  as  these  were  possible,  Greek  art  had  already  possessed  itself 
of  a  definite  type  for  the  statue  of  Apollo ,  and  for  the  youthful 
form  generally,  in  archaic  stiffness,  but  conformable  with  the  law 
of  nature  in  shape  and  proportion ;  while  by  constant  comparison 
with  nature  it  continued  to  gain  in  purity  and  truthfulness. 


ANCIENT  ART.  xxxi 

By  the  same  process  representation  in  relief  is  gradually  en- 
nobled. Offences  against  proportion  and  drawing  are  more  easily 
overlooked  in  relief  than  in  a  lifesize  work  in  the  round ;  the  sus- 
ceptibility of  the  eye  moreover  is  more  readily  forgotten  in  the  in- 
terest excited  by  the  pictorial  narration.  The  monuments  of  Seli- 
nunto  are  pre-eminent  in  the  opportunity  they  afford  for  observing 
on  the  spot  what  has  sprung  from  these  beginnings.  Of  the  group  on 
the  Eastern  hill  the  Temple  F  in  point  of  time  is  next  to  those  of 
the  Paean  Apollo  and  of  Athena.  Then  come  Temple  6,  likewise 
dedicated  to  Apollo,  one  to  Juno  E,  and  lastly  Temple  A,  occupy- 
ing the  Acropolis.  Temple  F  still  belongs  to  the  6th  century  B.C., 
a  period  when  the  building  of  the  Apollo  Temple  0  had  begun,  to 
be  completed  at  a  later  period.  The  Heraeum  (Temple  of  Juno)  E 
and  temple  A  date  from  the  middle  of  the  5th  century  B.C.  or 
not  much  later.  Two  halves  of  metope-slabs  have  been  brought 
to  light  which  adorned  the  temple  F  (a  god  and  goddess  contend- 
ing with  giants),  and  four  similar  slabs  from  the  Heraeum  are  so 
far  preserved  that  they  furnish  a  sufficiently  intelligible  repre- 
sentation of  Zeus  and  Hera ,  Artemis  and  Actaeon ,  Heracles  and 
the  Amazons,  and  Athena  contending  with  the  Giants. 

In  both  metopes  from  F  extraordinary  clearness  and  animation 
again  arrest  the  attention.  The  impetuous  rush  of  the  victorious 
goddess,  the  dying  agonies  of  the  fallen  giant,  his  head  convulsive- 
ly thrown  back,  his  mouth  open  and  grinning,  his  utter  helpless- 
ness, are  rendered  with  a  turbulence ,  and  with  an  expenditure  of 
means,  which  appear  to  us  very  much  in  excess  of  what  is  needed 
for  clear  expression,  and  which  simply  outrage  instead  of  satisfying 
one's  sense  of  the  beautiful.  The  two  art -stages  to  which  these 
reliefs,  and  the  quaint  rudeness  of  those  of  the  Apollo  Temple  on 
the  Acropolis  belong,  offer  a  certain  analogy.  In  both  cases  all 
available  means  are  applied  with  recklessness  and  in  excess.  Those, 
however,  at  the  disposal  of  the  later  artist  were  infinitely  richer 
and  more,  perfect.  While  his  predecessor  had  not  altogether  mastered 
the  forms  of  art ,  he  had  acquired  a  certain  familiarity  with  them, 
though  at  the  cost  of  much  toil  and  trouble ;  but  his  power  was  so 
new  and  unwonted  that  he  could  not  refrain  from  abusing  it.  The 
Metopaefrom  the  Heraeum  on  the  other  hand,  which  mark  the  maturity 
of  archaic  art,  show  a  command  of  expression  ennobled  by  a  fine 
perception  of  the  beautiful.  These  qualities  declare  themselves  most 
felicitously  in  the  two  compositions  which  represent  the  meeting 
of  Zeus  and  Hera  on  Mount  Ida  and  Artemis  punishing  Actseon. 
The  expression  of  godlike  serenity  and  joy  which  pervades  the  first 
scene  transcends  all  similar  efforts  whether  of  earlier  or  later  art : 
while  the  second  is  scarcely  less  admirable  from  the  way  in  which 
the  unmistakable  wildness  of  the  subject  is  subdued  to  something 
like  softness  by  modulation  of  movement  and  occupation  of  allotted 
space.    The  technical  method  employed  in  the  more  recent  metopes 


sxxii  ANCIENT  ART. 

is  peculiar.  In  the  antique  vases  with  "black  figures  on  a  red  ground 
the  men  are  usually  black,  and  the  women,  as  far  as  the  body  itself 
is  visible,  white.  Here  the  indication  of  the  lighter  and  darker  flesh 
colour  of  the  two  sexes  has  superficially  supplied  a  necessary  char- 
acteristic. But  the  perfected  art  also  resorted  to  this  distinction  in 
rendering  flesh-colour.  In  the  paintings  of  Pompeii  the  bronzed, 
sunburnt  bodies  of  the  men  form  an  effective  contrast  to  the  deli- 
cate and  fairer  forms  of  the  women.  Something  of  the  same  kind 
is  found  in  the  metopes  of  the  Herseum.  As  the  entire  temple  is  of 
tufa,  they  too  are  of  the  same  material.  Owing  to  the  rugged  and 
faulty  nature  of  the  material  the  architect  resorted  to  a  coating 
of  stucco  upon  which  he  displayed  his  gaudy  decoration.  In  the 
reliefs  on  the  other  hand  the  nude  forms  of  the  women  are  given 
in  white  marble.  The  harmony  of  the  different  portions  of  the 
reliefs,  multiform  as  they  were ,  was  restored  by  a  profuse  appli- 
cation of  colour,  which  the  purely  architectural  accessories  also  re- 
quired. 

Every  new  discovery,  in  which  the  excavations  of  the  last  twenty 
years  have  been  so  prolific,  brings  the  sculptures  of  Selinunto  one 
step  farther  from  the  artistic  isolation  which  presented  them  as  al- 
mostinsolubleproblemsto  the  original  discoverers.  The  quaint,  crude 
reliefs  of  Temple  C  recall  by  the  style  of  their  carved  forms  the 
curious  poros-sculptures  which  have  been  exhumed  on  the  Acropolis 
at  Athens ;  and  doubtless  their  colouring  was  as  vivid  and  striking 
as  the  colouring  of  those  sculptures.  The  powerful  reliefs  from 
Temple  Fy  with  their  representations  of  warriors  exerting  their  strength 
to  the  full,  range  themselves  side  by  side  with  the  Combats  of  the 
Giants  from  the  treasury  of  the  Megarans  at  Olympia.  The  beautiful 
metopes  of  the  Herajum  exhibit  a  close  affinity  with  the  sculptures 
of  the  temple  of  Zeus  at  Olympia.  They  may  perhaps  display  a  more 
successful  and  more  charming  gracefulness  than  the  Olympian  works; 
but  in  the  methods  of  composition,  in  the  naive  vivacity  of  the 
aesthetic  sense,  and  even  in  the  conception  of  nature,  it  is  impossible 
to  fail  to  recognize  in  both  the  same  artistic  method,  founded  on  the 
common  ground  of  an  equal  artistic  development,  and  very  clearly 
differentiated,  for  example,  from  the  yEginetan  marbles.  With  the 
artistic  style  of  the  sculptures  from  the  Heraeum  at  Selinunto,  may 
be  compared  the  newly  discovered  Ionic  temple  at  Locri,  as  affording 
an  example  of  a  not  very  alien  method  of  treatment. 

Beside  all  these  original  decorative  sculptures,  there  is  an  ad- 
mirable copy  of  a  great  work  of  not  much  later  date  that  ably  main- 
tains its  place  in  virtue  of  its  majestic  severity  and  restrained  energy. 
This  is  the  Farnese  Head  of  Juno  (p.  62),  which  at  once  recalls  to 
our  minds  the  Artemis  of  the  Herjeum  at  Selinunto.  In  a  well- 
known  passage  in  his  history  of  art,  Winckelmann  describes  per- 
fect beauty  as  twofold ,  as  having  a  double  grace :  the  one  as 
winning ,  —   'she  descends  from  her  eminence ,    revealing  herself 


ANCIENT  ART.  xxxiii 

to  the  observant  eye  with  a  suavity  devoid  of  self- abasement: 
she  is  not  over-anxious  to  please,  hut  would  not  he  over- 
looked'. The  other  is  self-sufficient  and  would  he  sought  rather 
than  court  attention ,  —  'she  holds  converse  only  with  the 
wise,  appearing  to  the  populace  inimical  and  austere,  she  conceals 
the  emotions  of  her  soul,  and  nearly  attains  to  the  blessed  repose 
of  the  divine  nature :  and  thus  according  to  ancient  writers  the 
greatest  artists  sought  to  pourtray  her'.  To  those  who  know  how  to 
observe  will  be  revealed  beneath  the  austere  solemnity  of  this  Far- 
nese  Juno  an  impressive  picture  of  godlike  repose  and  majesty. 

The  sculptures  of  the  Temple  of  Zeus  and  the  Ilersum  at  Seli- 
nunto  find  a  parallel  as  regards  violence  of  action  and  motion  in  the 
group  of  the  tyrant-slayers  Harmodius  and  Aristogiton,  in  the  Museo 
Nazionale  at  Naples  (p.  62),  a  marble  copy  of  that  work  of  Critios 
and  Nesiotes  which  stood  in  the  market-place  at  Athens.  But 
in  this  group  we  may  detect  traces  of  an  art  that  was  under  different 
conditions.  The  two  Athenians  rush  to  the  attack,  the  sword  of 
the  younger  being  raised  to  strike ;  the  older  of  the  two  (the  head 
of  this  figure  does  not  belong  to  it,  the  original  was  bearded)  is  at 
hand  to  protect  his  brave  comrade,  as  soon  as  the  time  comes  for  him 
to  interfere  ;  and  here  the  words  of  the  great  authority  already  quoted, 
in  reference  to  the  attributes  of  a  severe  style,  are  applicable :  'The 
drawing  was  impressive  but  hard,  powerful  but  devoid  of  grace.  The 
force  of  expression  detracts  from  the  beauty' . . .  'Art  was  hard  and 
severe  as  the  justice  of  the  time  which  punished  the  most  trifling 
offence  with  death'.  The  same  violence  of  action  and  rendering  of 
form  are  observable  in  the  reliefs  from  the  "W.  pediment  of  the 
temple  of  Zeus.  But  the  reliefs  appear  wild,  almost  disordered  and 
devoid  of  beauty,  beside  the  symmetrical  accuracy  and  precision, 
the  concentrated  power,  the  beautiful  flow  of  lines  in  the  Attic  group 
of  the  murder  of  Hippias. 

Though  in  the  National  Museum  there  may  not  be  found  any 
very  pure  or  important  example  of  the  Attic  school  of  Phidias'  time, 
a  succeeding  school  is  most  happily  illustrated  by  the  Orpheus  Belief 
(p.  66).  Orpheus  is  permitted  to  bring  his  consort  Eurydice  out  of 
Hades  and  to  restore  her  once  more  to  the  light  of  the  sun  on  con- 
dition that  he  shall  not  look  upon  her  during  the  passage.  He  has 
failed  to  fulfil  this  condition.  Hermes,  the  conductor  of  departed 
souls,  with  gentle  measured  gesture  takes  the  hand  of  Eurydice  to 
consign  her  anew  to  the  realm  of  shades.  In  contemplating  this  com- 
position, beautiful  in  its  simplicity  as  it  is,  hope  and  dismay  altern- 
ately possess  us.  The  advance  of  the  train ,  Orpheus  in  the  act  of 
casting  the  fatal  glance ,  the  confiding  communion  of  man  and  wife 
are  quite  unmistakable ,  as  well  as  the  interruption  of  their  pro- 
gress and  the  subsequent  return  of  Eurydice.  And  here  we  may 
pause  to  wonder  how  antique  art  could  present  powerful  effect 
clothed  in  persuasive  beauty,  or,  if  subdued ,  yet  with  striking  ex- 
Baedeker.   Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  c 


xxxiv  ANCIENT  ART. 

pression:  and  with  what  a  modest  expenditure  of  means  she  could 
assert  'this  nohle  simplicity  and  grandeur  of  repose'.  Even  in  its 
own  time  this  work  must  have  enjoyed  a  considerable  reputation, 
as  replicas  are  still  to  he  seen  in  the  Villa  Alhani  at  Rome  and  in 
the  Louvre  at  Paris.  The  Neapolitan  example  is  the  most  beauti- 
ful, and  the  severest  too,  of  those  extant.  It  may  he  remarked,  hy 
the  way,  that  the  inscriptions  introduced,  though  they  may  he  cor- 
rect in  the  explanation  they  give,   must  be  of  doubtful  antiquity. 

The  Argive  school  of  the  latter  half  of  the  fifth  century  had  as 
its  head  the  famous  Poltcletus.  He  frequently  used  earlier  works, 
even  of  the  Attic  school,  altering  them  according  to  a  deliberately 
defined  ideal  of  formal  beauty  and  harmonious  effect.  An  excellent 
example  of  his  style  is  afforded  by  the  fine  reproduction  of  his  Dory- 
phorus  from  the  palestra  at  Pompeii  (now  in  Naples). 

By  far  the  greater  number  of  sculptures  in  Naples  belong  like 
those  in  Rome  to  a  more  recent  period  of  Greek  art.  The  prostrate 
Amazon  stretched  out  in  death,  a  Dead  Persian,  a  Dead  Qiant,  and 
the  Wounded  Gaul,  which  will  be  readily  recognised  from  its 
resemblance  to  a  master-piece  of  the  Pergamenian  school,  the 
Dying  Gaul  in  the  Museum  of  the  Capitol  (the  so-called  dying- 
glad  iator),  are  parts  of  a  votive  offering  of  King  Attalus  of  Perga- 
mum  at  Athens,  of  which  single  figures  are  to  be  seen  in  Venice 
and  in  Rome. 

The  colossal  group  of  the  so-called  Farnese  Bull  (p.  60),  which 
brilliantly  represents  the  Rhodian  School,  is  more  likely  to  arrest 
attention.  This  group  will  produce  a  powerful  impression  upon 
most  beholders,  and  this  not  hy  force  of  its  material  hulk  alone. 
The  effect  would  have  been  even  more  impressive,  had  the  work  of 
restoration  been  successful,  particularly  in  the  standing  female 
figure.  It  will  be  worth  our  while  to  analyse  the  nature  of  this 
effect,  as  well  as  the  forces  which  contribute  to  it.  An  occurrence 
full  of  horror  is  presented  to  our  view.  Two  powerful  youths  are 
engaged  in  binding  on  the  back  of  a  furious  bull  the  helpless  form 
of  a  woman.  The  mighty  beast  is  plunging  violently,  and  in  another 
moment  will  be  away,  hurrying  the  burden  he  is  made  to  hear  to 
the  terrible  doom  of  a  martyr.  As  soon  as  we  have  attained  to  an 
accurate  conception  of  what  is  passing  before  us,  horror  and  dismay 
rather  than  pity  take  possession  of  us.  What  impels  the  youths 
to  the  deed?  How  is  it  that  they  are  allowed  to  effect  their  purpose 
undisturbed?  The  answer  is  to  be  found  outside  the  work  itself. 
Antiope,  expelled  by  her  father,  has  given  birth  to  Amphion  and 
Zethus  and  abandoned  them.  The  sons  grow  up  under  the  care 
of  an  old  shepherd.  Antiope  has  yet  other  sufferings  to  endure  at 
the  hands  of  her  relation  Dirce  who  maltreated  her.  Dirce  wander- 
ing on  Mount  Cythaeron  in  bacchanalian  revel  would  slay  the 
victim  of  her  persecutions.  She  bids  two  young  shepherds  bind 
Antiope  to  a  bull  that  she  may  thus  be  dragged  to  her  death.    The 


ANCIENT  ART.  XXxv 

youths  recognise  their  mother  before  it  is  too  late:  they  consign 
Dirce  to  the  doom  prepared  for  Antiope.  The  ancient  Greeks  were 
familiarised  with  this  myth  by  a  celebrated  tragedy  of  Euripides  ; 
the  subordinate  work  on  the  base,  the  mountain-god  Cythasron 
decked  with  Bacchic  ivy,  and  the  Bacchic  Cista  on  the  ground, 
would  help  to  recall  all  the  minor  incidents  of  the  story.  A  doom 
pronounced  by  the  gods  is  executed  ;  the  fate  Dirce  had  prepared  for 
another  recoils  upon  herself.  But  all  this,  or  at  least  as  much  as 
will  suffice  for  a  satisfactory  understanding  of  the  work  of  art  as 
such ,  cannot  be  gathered  from  the  work  itself.  In  the  Orpheus 
relief  we  recognise  without  extraneous  aid  the  separation  of  two 
lovers  calmly  resigned  to  their  fate,  their  severance  by  the  conductor 
of  souls.  An  acquaintance  with  the  exquisite  legend  will  merely 
serve  to  enhance  the  thrilling  emotions  evoked  by  the  sculptured 
forms.  The  Bull  will  excite  our  abhorrence  if  the  story  be  not 
known  to  us ;  while  the  knowledge  itself  and  such  reflections  as  it 
would  suggest  could  scarcely  reconcile  us  to  the  cruelty  of  the 
deed,  nor  help  us  to  endure  without  something  akin  to  petrifaction 
these  moments  of  horror.  But  when  our  thoughts  are  sufficiently 
collected  to  allow  of  our  realising  the  event,  we  are  again  lost  in 
admiring  wonder  at  the  aspiring  courage,  at  the  command  of  all 
artistical  and  technical  resources  possessed  by  the  author  of  this 
sculpture  which  uprears  itself  with  such  unfaltering  power.  The 
base  is  adorned  with  suggestions  of  landscape  and  appropriate 
animal-life  more  elaborately  than  was  then  usual  in  works  of  this 
kind,  although  analogies  are  not  wholly  wanting.  But  the  landscape, 
the  figure  of  the  mountain-god  Cythaeron,  together  with  all  minor 
accessories,  are  far  surpassed  in  interest  by  the  principal  figures 
and  their  action.  The  lovely  feminine  form  of  Dirce  vainly  im- 
ploring the  powerful  youths  whose  utmost  exertions  scarcely  suf- 
fice to  restrain  the  infuriated  beast,  the  vivid  reality  of  the  whole 
scene ,  the  artistic  refinement  in  the  execution  have  scarcely  yet 
been  sufficiently  admired.  We  readily  concede  to  one  like  Welcker, 
who  brought  the  finest  perceptions  to  bear  on  the  exposition  of 
antique  art,  'that  it  is  impossible  to  attain  to  the  highest  excellence 
in  any  particular  direction  without  at  the  same  time  postponing 
one  or  other  consideration  of  value'.  That  which  was  esteemed  as 
the  highest  excellence ,  the  goal  which  must  be  reached  at  the  cost 
of  all  other  considerations,  has  varied  with  successive  epochs  of 
Greek  art.  In  the  present  case  repose  and  concentration  are  sacri- 
ficed to  the  overwhelming  effect  of  a  momentary  scene.  Even  at 
a  time  when  restoration  could  not  have  interfered  with  the  original 
design ,  the  impression  of  a  certain  confusedness  must  have  been 
conveyed  to  the  spectator,  at  least  at  the  first  glance.  It  is  emin- 
ently characteristic  of  this  group  'that  it  powerfully  arrests  the 
attention  at  a  point  where  an  almost  wild  defiance  of  rule  declares 
itself.    The  contrast  presented  in  the  scene  —  the  terribly  rapid 


xxxU  ANCIENT  ART. 

and  unceasing  movement  as  the  inevitable  result  of  a  momentary 
pause,  which  the  artist  with  consummate  boldness  and  subtlety  has 
known  how  to  induce  and  improve,  give  life  and  energy  to  the 
picture  in  a  wonderful  degree'.  But  "Welcker  himself,  from  whom 
these  words  are  borrowed ,  reminds  us  how  this  group  first  arrests 
attention  'by  the  uncommon  character  of  its  appearance'.  The 
group  of  the  Bull  assuredly  displays  excellences  which  belonged 
to  the  antique  of  every  epoch ,  especially  the  intuitive  perception 
that  truth  in  the  sphere  of  art  is  not  identical  with  an  illusory 
realism.  The  conception  of  this  group  proceeds  from  a  complete 
apprehension  of  the  subject  to  be  embodied.  But  this  fulness  of 
apprehension  is  derived  from  the  Tragedy.  From  the  very  beginning 
plastic  art  and  poetry  have  been  as  twin  streams  springing  from 
one  source  and  flowing  separately,  yet  side  by  side.  Often  indeed 
their  waters  have  met  and  mingled.  But  it  was  long  e'er  the  tide 
of  poetry  seeking  a  separate  channel  helped  to  feed  the  sister 
stream.  The  scene  presented  to  us  by  this  Farnese  group  was 
illustrated  by  Euripides  long  before  its  embodiment  by  plastic  art 
in  his  tragedy,  where  Dirce's  death  is  related  by  the  messenger.  The 
artist  found  material  for  his  inventiveness  at  hand,  which  his  fancy, 
passionately  stimulated,  presently  endowed  with  plastic  form  and 
life  at  a  moment  which  promised  'an  uncommon  appearance',  a 
majestic  and  overpowering  effect  which  should  command  astonish- 
ment and  admiration.  We  have  already  attributed  the  Farnese  group 
to  the  Rhodian  School  in  speaking  of  the  origin  and  development 
of  art.  It  was  the  work  of  two  sculptors  Apollonius  and  Tauriscus 
of  Tralles  in  Asia  Minor ;  for,  according  to  the  Roman  author  Pliny, 
the  group  is  identical  with  one  by  these  artists  which  was  brought 
to  Rome  from  Rhodes,  and  in  all  probability  found  its  way  thence 
to  Naples.  —  The  colossal  group  of  a  man  who  bears  away  the  dead 
body  of  a  boy  on  his  shoulders  is  usually  ascribed  to  the  Rhodian 
School.  It  has  been  described  as  Hector  with  the  body  of  Troilus. 
But  the  corpse  of  a  beloved  brother  saved  from  the  battle-field 
would  hardly  be  seized  in  such  fashion.  It  would  rather  appear 
to  be  that  of  a  victim  borne  away  in  triumph  by  a  ruthless  victor. 

In  Naples  we  have  a  number  of  instructive  examples  of  the 
two  styles  which  are  frequently  designated  as  an  antique  Renais- 
sance, the  New-Attic  School,  and  the  School  op  Pasitelbs  ;  of 
the  latter  in  the  bronze  figure  of  Apollo  playing  the  Lyre  from  Pom- 
peii, and  in  the  archaic  simplicity  of  the  affecting  group  of  Orestes 
and  Electra ;  of  the  former  in  the  Vase  of  Salpion,  or  better  still  in 
the  Aphrodite  from  Capua,  the  so-called  Psyche,  and  similar  works. 
The  Museo  Nazionale  at  Naples  is  richer  in  large  Bronzes  than 
any  other  museum  in  the  world ;  and  nearly  all  stages  of  Greek  art 
may  bo  traced  in  this  great  collection.  A  very  early  period  is  re- 
presented by  the  Head  of  a  Youth,  remarkable  for  the  soldering  on 
of  the  hair ,  which  the  shrewd  collector  in  his  villa  at  Ilerculaneum 


ANCIENT  ART.  xxxvii 

had  erected  as  the  fragment  of  a  statue.  The  so-called  Dancing 
Women  from  Herculanenm  belong  to  the  same  cycle  as  the  sculp- 
tures at  Selinunto  and  Olympia,  -where  also  Phidias  had  a  place,  as  is 
proved  by  the  copy  of  the  Parthenos  found  in  Athens.  The  bearded 
head,  once  erroneously  named  Plato ,  illustrates  the  artistic  forms 
of  the  stage  represented  by  Myron;  while  later  art  is  illustrated  by 
the  statuette  of  Dionysos,  known  under  the  misnomer  of  Narcissus. 
The  Besting  Hercules  and  the  gay  Dancing  Faun  have  long  been  fa- 
mous. The  bead  at  one  time  believed  to  represent  Seneca  is  an 
admirable  portrait  of  some  Alexandrian  scholar  or  poet.  In  Naples 
also,  abundant  opportunity  will  be  found  for  continuing  the  study 
begun  in  Rome  of  the  heroes  of  an  ideal  world,  of  portraits,  sarco- 
phagus-reliefs, or  whatever  else  may  especially  engage  the  attention. 
The  custom  of  painting  marble  statues  is  illustrated  for  the  earlier 
period  in  a  statue  of  Artemis,  and  for  the  later  period  in  a  statuette 
of  Venus.  Probably,  however,  curiosity  and  interest  will  be  most 
excited  by  the  appearance  of  antique  paintings  from  Pompeii  and 
the  neighbouring  cities  of  Campania  buried  at  the  foot  of  Vesuvius. 
The  history  of  Greek  Painting  presents  a  problem  difficult 
of  solution.  Happily  we  have  outlived  the  superstition  that  the 
people  amongst  whom  the  Parthenon  arose ,  and  who  gave  birth  to 
a  sculptor  such  as  Phidias,  should  have  contributed  in  painting 
nothing  worthy  of  record.  What  we  most  desire,  however,  is  still 
wanting.  We  are  not  in  possession  of  any  work  by  a  master  of  the 
art ;  but  only  of  the  products  of  a  subordinate  and  mechanical  art, 
and  these  only  from  a  single  and  comparatively  recent  period. 

The  greatest  painter  of  the  older  time  —  and  probably  one  of 
the  greatest  artists  of  all  times  —  was  Polygnotus  ,  a  native  of 
Thasos.  He  lived  for  the  most  part  in  Athens,  where  he  was  pre- 
sented with  the  rights  of  citizenship,  and  was,  though  a  contemporary 
of  Phidias,  his  senior.  As  Phidias  was  a  favourite  of  Pericles  and 
employed  by  him,  it  would  appear  that  Polygnotus  was  a  protege  of 
Cimon.  Pausanias,  the  Greek  author  of  travels  (in  the  time  of 
Antoninus),  had  seen  two  large  paintings  by  Polygnotus  covering 
the  wall  in  Delphi,  and  has  minutely  described  them.  In  the  one 
the  fall  of  Troy  was  represented,  in  the  other  scenes  from  the  nether 
world.  In  the  first  the  Trojan  Cassandra  is  the  centre  figure.  Ajax 
has  offered  violence  to  her:  she  sits  on  the  ground,  in  her  hand  the 
image  of  the  insulted  Athena ;  around  her  the  Greek  heroes  are 
sitting  in  judgment  upon  Ajax.  In  the  background  is  the  citadel 
of  Troy,  the  head  of  the  wooden  horse  reaches  above  its  wall,  which 
Epeios,  the  builder  of  the  horse,  is  about  to  demolish.  Right  and 
left  of  the  central  group  are  scenes  of  destruction ;  heaps  of  the 
slain,  the  savage  Neoptolemus  still  persisting  in  his  work  of 
slaughter,  captive  women,  and  terrified  children  ;  nor  were  more 
inviting  scenes  wanting.  Close  to  the  captive  Trojan  women  yEthra 
was  seen,  the  liberated  slave  of  Helen,  and  farther  back  the  tent 


xxxviii  ANCIENT  ART. 

of  Menelaus  is  taken  down  and  his  ship  equipped  for  departure. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  picture  was  recognised  the  house  of  An- 
tcnor,  which  the  Greeks  had  spared,  while  he  himself  and  his 
family  make  ready  to  quit  their  desolated  home  and  depart  foi 
foreign  lands.  Thus  the  entire  centre  of  the  composition  has  refer- 
ence to  the  crime  committed  after  the  conquest,  which  called  aloud 
for  punishment  by  the  gods  ;  these  scenes  of  death  and  horror  were 
enclosed  at  the  extremities  by  more  peaceful  incidents  —  the 
horror  of  the  lower  world  whose  shades  envelope  renowned  heroes 
and  heroines ;  Odysseus  compelled  to  descend  to  the  abode  of  the 
departed  —  all  this  Polygnotus  combined  in  one  grand  picture, 
skilfully  alternating  peace  and  the  torments  of  hell,  prodigious 
ghastliness  and  tender  grace.  Polygnotus  had  not  only  embodied  in 
these  pictures  the  mythical  matter  with  which  religious  rites,  epic 
poem,  vulgar  tradition  and  humour,  as  well  as  the  earlier  works  of 
plastic  art,  could  furnish  him ;  not  only  had  he  animated  this 
material  with  captivating  motives  strongly  appealing  to  the  be- 
holder's imagination  ;  but  he  had,  as  may  still  be  recognised,  while 
painting,  asserted  his  power  as  a  poet  and  supplied  much  that  was 
original  in  the  realm  of  fancy.  The  technical  means  at  the  disposal 
of  Polygnotus  were  so  limited,  so  simple  and  antiquated,  that  in 
the  Roman  times  admiration  of  his  pictures  was  ridiculed  as  a  con- 
ceit of  dilettantism  —  just  as  at  one  time  it  was  customary  to  scoff 
at  the  admirer  of  Giotto.  Nevertheless  with  these  simple  means, 
Polygnotus  could  express  himself  with  so  much  clearness,  so  nobly 
and  sublimely,  that  Aristotle  boasted  of  him  that  his  forms  were 
more  noble  and  grander  than  were  commonly  seen  in  life,  while 
the  painter  Pauson  presented  men  worse  than  they  really  were,  and 
Dionysius  was  true  to  nature.  Having  regard  to  these  separate  qua- 
lifications he  suggested  that  the  youthful  eye  should  receive  its  im- 
pressions from  Polygnotus  and  not  from  Pauson.  In  later  times  the 
beauty  of  Polygnotus'  pictures  continued  to  charm  :  in  the  second 
century  A.  D.  his  Cassandra  supplied  an  author  of  refinement  and 
penetration,  like  Lucian,  with  the  material  for  a  description  of  fe- 
minine beauty. 

Wliile  the  fame  of  Polygnotus  and  his  contemporaries  rested 
principally  on  wall-paintings,  later  critics  would  maintain  that 
those  of  his  successors  who  first  produced  artistic  effect  in  portable 
pictures  were  the  only  true  painters.  As  the  first  painter  in  this 
sense  the  Athenian  Apollodokus  may  be  named.  The  work  which 
he  began  was  completed  by  Zeuxis  of  Heraclea  and  Pahjrhasius  of 
Ephesus.  We  still  possess  a  description  by  Lucian  of  the  Centaur 
family  by  Zeuxis.  The  female  Centaur  reclines  on  the  grass,  the 
human  upper  part  of  the  body  being  raised  and  supported  by  the 
elbow.  One  of  her  two  infants  she  holds  in  her  arms  giving  it 
nourishment  in  human  fashion  ;  the  other  sucks  as  a  foal  her  teats. 
The  male  Centaur  looks  down  from  above.     He  holds  in  his  right 


ANCIENT  ART.  xxxix 

hand  a  lion-cub  which  lie  swings  over  his  shoulder  as  if  jokingly 
to  frighten  his  young  ones.  'The  further  excellences  of  the  picture,' 
modestly  continues  Lucian,  though  evidently  an  accomplished 
connoisseur,  'which  to  us  laymen  are  but  partly  revealed,  "but 
nevertheless  comprise  the  whole  of  art's  resources ,  correct  draw- 
ing, an  admirable  manipulation  and  mingling  of  colour,  man- 
agement of  light  and  shade,  a  happy  choice  of  dimension,  as 
well  as  just  relative  proportion  of  parts  to  the  whole,  and  the  com- 
bined movement  of  the  composition  —  these  are  qualities  to  be  ex- 
tolled by  one  of  art's  disciples  who  has  mastered  the  subject  in  its 
detail'.  This  eloquent  description  by  Lucian  has  been  made  the  sub- 
ject of  a  spirited  drawing  by  Genelli.  Unfortunately  no  such  record 
of  Parrhasius'  works  remains.  The  credit  of  having  first  applied 
symmetry,  i.e.  probably  the  systematic  regard  for  the  proportion 
recognised  by  later  leaders  in  art,  to  painting,  is  claimed  for  Par- 
rhasius, as  well  as  delicacy  and  grace  in  the  artistic  rendering  of  the 
countenance  and  hair.  He  is  said,  too,  to  have  been  supreme  in 
the  management  of  contour.  But  in  later  times  Parrhasius  was 
esteemed  simple  as  a  colourist  compared  with  Apelles. 

The  authors  to  whom  are  ascribed  most  of  the  notices  of  painters 
that  we  possess,  distinguish,  different  schools.  The  Helladic 
School  included  the  painters  of  Athens  and  those  of  the  mother- 
country  of  Greece  along  with  those  of  Sicyon.  But  owing  to  the 
pre-eminence  achieved  for  Sicyon  by  the  painter  Eupompus,  the 
llelladic  school  was  again  subdivided  under  the  title  of  Sicyonic 
and  Attic  or  Attic-Theban ,  after  certain  artists  of  these  schools. 
To  this,  or  these  schools  rather,  was  opposed  the  Asiatic  (Ionic). 
Pausias,  whose  name  is  known  to  us  by  Goethe's  exquisite  poem, 
was  one  of  the  Sicyonian  School,  and,  so,  it  appears,  was  that  spirited 
painter  Timanthes,  whose  best-known  work  was  his  Iphigenia.  She 
stood  at  the  altar  ready  to  be  sacrificed,  surrounded  by  the  heroes 
of  the  Grecian  camp,  in  whose  persons,  according  to  the  character 
of  each  and  with  due  regard  to  appropriateness,  was  pourtrayed 
every  degree  of  mental  anguish.  Agamemnon  himself  veiled  his 
head.  Nicomachus,  Aristides,  Euphranor,  likewise  renowned  as 
sculptor  and  master  of  heroic  representation ,  and  Nicias  the  friend 
of  Praxiteles  belong  to  the  Theban-Attic  school.  Amongst  the  pic- 
tures of  Aristides  was  one  of  a  woman  wounded  during  the  siege. 
She  is  dying  while  her  infant  still  clings  to  her  breast.  In  the  ex- 
pression of  the  mother's  countenance  could,  it  was  thought,  be  read 
the  fear  lest  her  blood  should  be  mingled  with  the  milk  the  child 
was  sucking.  —  The  most  brilliant  master  of  the  Ionic  school  — 
though  he  had  had  the  advantage  of  studying  his  art  in  Sicyon  — 
the  most  renowned  indeed  of  the  painters  of  antiquity,  was  Apelles, 
the  contemporary  of  Alexander  the  Great,  and  incomparable  in  his 
power  of  expressing  grace  in  all  its  forms.  As  yet  we  are  not  in  pos- 
session of  any  distinct  clue  to  the  character  of  his  most  esteemed 


xl  ANCIENT  ART. 

works,  of  Artemis ,  with  her  band  of  attendant  Nymphs  clustering 
around  her,  hurrying  to  the  chase,  nor  of  Aphrodite  rising  from  the 
sea.  We  are  more  fortunate  in  the  instance  of  two  younger  painters, 
Aetion  and  Timomachus.  Of  the  nuptials  of  Alexander  by  Aetion 
we  have  again  a  masterly  description  by  Lucian,  with  which  all  are 
acquainted  who  have  seen  the  beautiful  Raffaelesque  composition  in 
the  Palazzo  Borghese  at  Rome.  The  Medea  of  Timomachus  is  to 
be  traced  in  a  series  of  imitations  or  reminiscences,  on  monuments 
of  different  kinds,  but  most  remarkably  in  a  mutilated  picture  from 
Herculaneum,  and  again  in  another  perfectly  preserved  from 
Pompeii. 

The  services  thus  rendered  us  by  the  Campanian  towns  in 
bringing  to  light  the  works  of  Timomachus  encourage  us  to  hope 
that  they  may  be  repeated  in  the  case  of  other  Greek  celebrities. 
It  is  in  fact  concluded  with  a  considerable  show  of  probability  that 
in  the  Pompeian  representations  of  the  liberation  of  Andromeda  by 
Perseus  are  to  be  recognised  influences  of  a  picture  by  Nicias.  It 
has  frequently  been  attempted  with  much  pains,  and  with  aid  of 
more  or  less  audacious  assumptions  and  combinations,  to  contrive 
copies  of  these  renowned  Greek  masters,  and  when  after  all  it  has 
been  found  that  such  efforts  are  for  the  most  part  vain  and  futile, 
it  has  been  urged  in  explanation  of  the  failure  that  our  acquain- 
tance with  celebrated  cabinet-pictures  is  too  limited.  We  must, 
then,  however  unwillingly,  accept  the  conclusion  that  anything  more 
than  a  very  qualified  belief  in  Pompeian  pictures  is  impossible. 
They  are  invaluable  as  a  clue  to  many  qualities  which  were  com- 
mon to  the  painting  of  antiquity  ;  invaluable ,  too ,  because  they 
assuredly  possess ,  in  obedience  to  the  unvarying  traditions  of  an- 
tique art  —  which  having  taken  a  theme  in  hand  would  work  it  out 
to  the  last  possible  variation  —  a  wealth  of  imagery  and  redundance 
of  lineament  which  connect  them  more  or  less  closely  with  the  works 
of  the  great  masters.  But  it  is  scarcely  to  be  wondered  at  that  the 
authenticity  of  copies  from  celebrated  cabinet-pictures  of  the  best 
period  should  be  so  rarely  established,  or  wear  even  the  appearance 
of  probability;  it  were  a  wonder  indeed  if  so  much  could  be  accom- 
plished. 

Demosthenes  reminds  his  countrymen  in  scathing  words  how 
in  the  palmy  days  of  Athens  the  noblest  edifices  were  erected  in 
honour  of  the  gods,  while  the  dwellings  of  the  most  distinguished 
Athenians  were  simple  andinconspicuous  as  those  of  their  neighbours. 
Even  at  the  time  these  words  were  spoken  a  change  had  come  over 
Greek  life.  For  the  stern  sublimity  of  the  creations  of  an  earliertime, 
Art  had  substituted  a  milder  and  more  effeminate  type  of  divinity, 
nor  did  she  now  disdain  to  enter  the  abodes  of  men.  The  splendour 
which  had  been  reserved  for  the  gods,  now  found  its  way  into  pri- 
vate dwellings.  What  at  first  had  been  a  bold  innovation  and  an 
exception ,   presently  grew  into  a  universal  requirement.    From  the 


ANCIENT  ART.  xli 

epoch  of  culture  inaugurated  by  Alexander  onwards ,  sculptor  and 
painter  alike  contributed  to  the  artistical  beauty  and  sumptuous 
adornment  of  dwelling-houses.  Inventiveness ,  displayed  in  the 
designing  and  ornamentation  of  household  furniture  of  every  kind, 
followed  as  a  matter  of  course ,  and  though  in  Athens  and  Hellas 
expenditure  in  this  way  remained  moderate,  in  other  great  cities,  as 
Alexandria  in  Egypt  and  Antioch  in  Syria ,  artist  and  handicrafts- 
man alike  vied  with  the  wealth  and  luxury  of  the  inhabitants,  not 
only  in  beautifying  the  cities  externally,  but  in  lavishing  upon  the 
dwelling-houses  of  the  rich  the  utmost  attainable  splendour.  Plans 
were  extended  and  adapted  to  the  employments  and  highest  enjoy- 
ment of  life ;  floors,  walls,  and  ceilings  were  arranged  and  decorated 
in  ever  new  and  varying  style.  Then  decoration  in  stucco  and 
painting  was  supplemented  by  mosaic  work  which  enlivened  the 
floors  with  an  effect  as  charming  as  that  of  painting ;  nor  was  it 
long  restricted  to  the  floors.  Along  with  other  elements  of  culture 
the  Roman  world  had  borrowed  from  the  Greek  the  beautifying  of 
their  houses ,  and  as  movement  is  never  absolutely  suspended,  this 
taste  received  in  Roman  times  a  farther  impetus  in  its  original 
direction.  We  may  safely  assume,  however,  reasoning  from  analogy, 
that  it  departed  farther  and  farther  from  the  purity  and  harmony  of 
the  Greek  pattern. 

In  the  picture  which  Pompeii  presents  as  a  whole  we  see  the 
last  trace  of  that  combined  art  and  beauty  which  with  the  later 
Greeks  permeated  life  in  every  vein  and  in  all  its  phases  :  a  feeble 
and  faded  picture  it  must  remain,  however  active  the  fancy  may 
be  in  investing  it  with  attributes  belonging  to  Hellenic  art  in  the 
zenith  of  its  splendour.  From  an  earlier  period,  when  the  influence 
of  the  Greek  was  more  directly  felt,  we  have  not  received  much  from 
Pompeii  that  is  instructive.  The  general  impression  is  derived 
from  the  restorations  consequent  on  the  earthquake  of  the  year 
A.D.  63.  The  great  mass  of  decoration  is  the  work  of  the  sixteen 
years  intervening  between  A.D.  63  and  the  town's  final  destruction 
in  A.D.  79,  and  was  in  the  newest  fashion  then  prevailing  in  Rome, 
but  necessarily  on  a  scale  commensurate  with  the  resources  of  a  pro- 
vincial town.  As  the  Roman  senate  had  ordered  the  rebuilding  of  the 
town,  the  pay  of  handicraftsmen  would  doubtlessly  be  attractive 
enough.  The  houses  were  made  habitable  with  the  utmost  de- 
spatch, and  received  their  decorations  with  the  same  haste.  It  is  im- 
possible but  to  believe  that  the  greater  number  of  houses  were  thus 
completed  by  a  comparatively  small  number  of  masters  with  their 
staffs  of  workmen.  They  had  their  pattern-books  for  the  decoration 
of  entire  rooms  and  walls,  as  well  as  for  simple  pictures,  and  they 
resorted  to  these  pattern-books  more  or  less  according  to  their  need 
or  fancy.  The  favourite  motives  and  forms  were  so  familiar  to 
them  that  they  had  them  literally  at  their  ringers'  ends  :  with  incre- 
dibly certain  and  facile  hand,   and  without  concerning  themselves 


xlii  ANCIENT  ART. 

about  means  or  method,  they  fling  their  gaud  and  glitter  over  the 
naked  walls.  And  very  captivating  is  this  stirring  picture-pattern 
world  which  moved  obedient  to  their  will.  Vistas  of  airy  fantastical 
forms  architecturally  disposed  and  decked  with  wreaths  and  gar- 
lands delusively  mask  the  narrow  limits  of  the  allotted  space; 
while,  by  way  of  completing  the  illusory  effect  of  this  mock  archi- 
tecture, graceful  figures  move  in  the  midst,  or  from  the  open  window 
look  in  upon  the  chamber.  Arabesques,  sprays  and  borders  of 
foliage  and  flowers,  and  garlands  gracefully  enliven  and  divide  the 
walls  ;  while  in  the  midst  of  the  enclosed  spaces,  from  a  dark  back- 
ground, figures  single  or  in  pairs  stand  out  in  dazzling  relief,  and 
whether  winged  or  otherwise  are  always  lightly  and  surely  poised. 
Here  and  there  lovely  maidens  are  seen  dancing  in  mid-air;  Eros 
tinkles  on  the  strings  of  the  lyre  which  Psyche  holds  ;  Satyrs  and 
Nymphs,  Centaurs  and  Bacchantes,  female  figures  with  candelabra, 
flowers  and  fruits  people  this  airy  realm  of  fancy.  Separate  pic- 
tures at  intervals  engage  the  attention.  They  tell  the  story  of  the 
handsome  but  unsusceptible  Narcissus,  of  Adonis  the  favourite  of 
Aphrodite,  whose  early  loss  the  goddess  bewails  with  Eros,  of  Phae- 
dra's shameless  passion  for  Hippolytus ;  the  loves  of  Apollo  and 
Daphne,  of  Ares  and  Aphrodite,  Artemis  and  Actaeon,  Ariadne 
abandoned  by  Theseus,  the  story  of  Leda,  the  life  and  pursuits  of 
Bacchus  and  his  followers,  of  the  god  finding  the  forsaken  Ariadne, 
and  of  Satyrs  pursuing  Nymphs.  Scenes  of  terror,  too,  there  are : 
Dirce  bound  to  the  Bull,  Medea  meditating  the  murder  of  her 
children,  the  sacrifice  of  Iphigenia  —  but  even  these  are  rendered 
with  an  effect  of  sensuous  beauty  so  entrancing  that  they  are  lost 
in  the  gladsome  world  of  exuberant  life  about  them.  Mere  tragedy, 
mere  convulsive  effort,  acquired  no  enduring  power  over  the  senses: 
they  are  rather  beguiled  by  the  remembrance  of  some  captivating 
legend,  some  transient  impulse,  a  throb  of  compassion,  which  infuse 
a  wholesome  element  into  pictures  abounding  with  expressions  of 
rapturous  delight.  Where  passion  exerts  itself  it  is  but  for  the 
moment  —  the  power  of  love  for  good  or  evil,  the  beauty  of  the 
human  form,  moments  of  bliss  whether  of  mortals  or  the  immor- 
tals —  such  is  the  material  for  an  ever-recurring  theme.  Bits  of 
landscape,  houses  with  trees,  rocks,  or  a  grotto  on  the  strand  are 
suggestive  of  idyllic  delights.  And  around  these  more  conspicuous 
figures  are  grouped  an  accompaniment  of  small  friezes  with  pic- 
torial accessories  grave  and  gay,  still  life,  animals  and  incidents  of 
the  chase,  pygmies,  masks,  fresh  fruit,  and  household  vessels. 

The  liveliest  impression  is  made  by  the  best  examples  of 
figures  separately  poised  on  the  walls.  Curiosity  is  most  excited 
by  the  separate  pictures;  they  are  the  last  remnant  of  the  historical 
painting  of  the  old  world.  They  cannot,  however,  enable  us  to 
form  a  just  estimate  of  the  works  of  the  greatest  ancient  masters. 
If  genuine  and  adequate  copies  of  celebrated  cabinet-pictures  from 


ANCIENT  ART.  xliii 

the  best  period  were  to  be  found  amongst  Pompeian  decorations  it 
would  be  by  an  accident  altogether  exceptional  and  capricious. 
The  artist-bands  who  subsequently  to  the  earthquake  of  A.D.  (33 
pushed  their  work  so  easily  and  so  rapidly  had  neither  these  ca- 
binet-pictures nor  the  genuine  and  adequate  copies  to  guide  them, 
but  simply  the  drawings  of  their  pattern-books.  +  Thoroughly  trained 
as  they  were  mechanically  to  the  work ,  they  turned  their  sketches 
to  the  best  possible  account,  transferred  them  on  the  required  scale, 
making  additions  or  omissions  as  the  case  might  be,  varying,  modi- 
fying and  curtailing,  as  necessity,  fancy,  and  the  measure  of  their 
capacity  might  prescribe.  The  enclosed  pictures,  which  in  graceful 
inventiveness  and  execution  often  enough  surpassed  the  forms  oc- 
cupying the  open  spaces,  cannot  be  considered  apart  from  the 
general  decoration  with  which  in  manner  and  method  they  are 
identical.  They  betray  moreover  in  spite  of  all  that  is  beautiful 
and  admirable  about  them,  symptoms  of  degeneracy;  just  as  the 
wall  -  decorations  of  Pompeii  descending  from  elegance  to  the 
trivialities  of  mock  architecture  exhibit  a  degeneracy  which  must 
not,  however,  be  regarded  as  inherent  in  the  art  of  which  we  see 
here  but  a  feeble  reflection.  Thus  we  learn  that  the  way  from  the 
great  painters  of  Greece  to  the  wall-pictures  of  Pompeii  is  neither 
short  nor  straight,  but  long  and  too  often  hard  to  find.  Many  of 
the  forms  and  groups  so  gracefully  poised  in  the  open  wall-spaces 
may  in  their  origin  have  reached  back  so  far  as  to  the  happiest 
period  of  Greek  art;  it  is  also  possible,  that,  when  framed  pictures 
were  for  the  first  time  painted  on  the  walls  of  houses  in  the  epoch 
of  Alexander,  or  at  whatever  other  period  this  style  of  decoration 
came  into  vogue,  celebrated  easel-pictures  were  copied  or  laid 
under  contribution.  The  designers  of  the  pattern-books  may  have 
betaken  themselves  to  a  variety  of  sources ,  they  may  have  ap- 
propriated and    combined,    as   old   and   new  patterns,    entire  de- 


t  There  have  been  long-standing  differences  of  opinion  ahout  the  me- 
chanism of  painting  practised  in  Pompeii.  A  solution  of  the  problem  is 
the  result  of  researches  conducted  hy  the  painter  O.  Donner  (in  a  work 
published  by  Prof.  Helbig,  entitled  'Wall-paintings  of  the  cities  of  Cam- 
pania destroyed  by  Vesuvius',  Leipsic,  1868).  According  to  this  authority  it 
is  certain  that  the  greater  number  of  the  pictures  as  well  as  wall-decora- 
tions were  painted  in  fresco  ,  i.  e.  upon  a  newly  prepared  and  moistened 
surface  —  and  only  in  exceptional  cases  and  as  a  makeshift  upon  a  dry 
ground.  Conclusive  evidence  of  this  is  afforded  by  the  presence,  to  which 
Donner  refers,  of  so-called  Fresco-edges ,  i.  e.  of  spots  where  the  newly- 
prep  ared  surface  came  in  contact  with  what  was  already  dry.  The  sur- 
face intended  for  the  reception  of  colour  was  prepared  by  the  painters  of 
antiquity  with  such  care  that  it  retained  the  moisture  much  longer  than 
in  recent  times  has  been  found  attainable.  They  were  thus  enabled  to 
co  ver  large  wall-spaces  without  interruption  and  in  this  respect  had  a  con- 
si  derable  advantage  over  us  moderns.  —  In  1873  Professor  Helbig  pub- 
lished  a  supplement  to  his  earlier  work  (Leipsic),  and  in  1879  a  con- 
tinuation of  his  list  of  mural  paintings  appeared  in  Italian,  under  the 
title  'Le  Pilture  Murali  Cmnpnne  scoverte  negli  anni  1SG7-7S ,  descritte  da 
Antonio  Sogliano\ 


xliv  ANCIENT  ART. 

corations  together  with,  separate  figures  and  finished  pictures.  Like 
the  pattern-books  for  the  sarcophagus-reliefs,  they  must  have  been 
full  of  ideas  and  motives  derived  from  an  earlier  and  nobler  art. 
And  as  wall-painting  is  more  akin  to  high  art  we  may  encourage 
the  hope  that  patient  research  will  often  be  rewarded  by  discovering 
—  as  hitherto  amidst  a  tanglement  of  conflicting  evidence  —  not 
the  works  themselves  of  the  great  masters,  but  those  traces  of  their 
workwhich  we  so  eagerly  seek.  In  Pompeii,  however,  we  learn  the 
necessity  of  caution,  for  we  there  find  examples  of  a  much  earlier 
style  of  decoration  than  the  'Pompeian',  or  even  than  the  style  of 
the  Augustan  age. 

No  one  could  overlook  the  solemn  dignity  of  aspect  which  makes 
the  Casa  del  Fauno  conspicuous  amidst  the  mass  of  habitations  in 
Pompeii.  Here  beauty  reveals  itself  in  column  and  capital,  cornice 
and  panelling,  favourably  contrasting  with  the  gaudy  frippery  of  a 
fantastical  mock  architecture  with  its  pictorial  accompaniments. 
The  wealthy  family  which  occupied  this  mansion  may  have  rejoiced 
in  the  possession  of  many  a  costly  cabinet -picture.  But  at  the 
time  the  house  was  built  it  was  not  yet  the  custom,  or  it  was  not  the 
owner's  pleasure  to  follow  the  newest  fashion.  In  their  place  a 
complete  series  of  the  finest  mosaics  formed  a  part  of  the  general 
decoration  of  the  house.  These  are  still  partly  preserved  and  to 
be  seen  on  the  spot.  Here  the  celebrated  Battle  of  Alexander  was 
found,  a  grand  composition  that  irresistibly  reminded  Goethe  of  Ra- 
phael's 'Siege  of  Constantinople' ;  while  Karl  Justi  suggests  as  a  per- 
haps still  more  just  comparison  Velazquez's  famous  painting  of  the 
'Surrender  of  Breda'.  In  fact  these  three  powerful  representations 
of  great  feats  of  arms  tower,  as  it  were,  like  three  lofty  peaks  above 
the  long  series  of  lesser  martial  paintings  that  the  world  has  seen. 
They  are  closely  related  to  each  other  in  their  mighty  tide  of  move- 
ment, in  their  imposing  effect ,  and  above  all,  in  the  indissoluble 
unity,  with  which  the  artistic  imagination  has  in  each  case  conceived 
and  depicted  the  hero  of  the  day  plunged  in  the  thick  of  the  fray 
yet  dominating  and  ruling  the  surrounding  melee.  Early  Greek  art 
apparently  made  few  attempts  to  represent  masses  of  warriors  in 
conflict;  the  battles  were  generally  dissolved  into  scattered  groups 
of  single  combatants ,  and  even  the  leaders  were  not  specially  con- 
spicuous. Perhaps  the  reverse  might  have  seemed  to  recall  the 
customs  of  Asiatic  despots,  in  the  minds  of  the  early  Greeks.'  At 
the  battle  of  Issus  great  masses  of  troops  were  dashed  against  each 
other.  Alexander  in  person  pressed  hard  upon  Darius,  whose  brother 
Oxathres  interposed  himself  with  his  cavalry.  The  noblest  of  the 
Persians  fell;  Darius  ,  menaced  by  the  greatest  danger,  mounted  a 
horse  to  secure  his  flight.  This  is  the  moment  represented  by  the 
mosaic.  The  horse  that  is  to  save  the  king  is  conspicuous  in  the 
centre.  Darius  ,  however  ,  thinks  not  of  his  urgent  need  of  rescue 
but  sunk  in  grief  and  horror,  gazes  on  the  corpses  of  his  followers 


ANCIENT  ART.  xlv 

who  have  protected  him  with  their  lives.-  Alexander  has  dashed  for- 
ward with  irresistible  strength;  his  helmet  has  fallen  from  his  head 
with  the  violence  of  his  action;  and  his  mighty  spear  transfixes 
Oxathres  on  his  falling  horse.  The  forms  of  Alexander,  Oxathres, 
and  Darius  are  those  first  seen  and  comprehended  by  the  spectator; 
then  he  becomes  aware  of  the  charioteer  urging  his  horses  to  flight 
in  hopeless  despair,  and  of  the  noble  Persian  who  has  sprung  from 
his  horse  and  holds  it  ready  for  his  king.  It  is  a  scene  of  breathless 
suspense  and  excitement.  The  excitement  is  intensified  and  ac- 
centuated by  the  wildly  agitated  surroundings  of  men  and  horses, 
overthrown  or  uninjured.  The  vividly  coloured  figures  stand  out  in 
distinctly  defined  masses  from  the  clear  yellowish  atmosphere.  Land- 
scape is  represented  by  little  more  than  an  isolated  withered  tree  and  a 
rock.  The  extended  battle-scene  rolls  before  the  eye  of  the  beholder 
like  some  wild  hunt.  The  point  of  view,  as  Ottfried  Miiller  has  ob- 
served, is  somewhat  low,  so  that  the  heads  of  the  figures  behind  pro- 
ject but  little  above  those  in  front ;  and  as  is  usually  the  case  with 
antique  reliefs ,  the  mosaic  is  treated  as  though  the  point  of  view 
moved  in  a  straight  line  parallel  to  the  length  of  the  picture.  But 
within  these  limits ,  every  difficulty  is  fairly  confronted  and  over- 
come. The  drawing  is  free,  bold,  and  absolutely  sure  and  the  colour- 
effects  are  vigorous  and  harmonious ;  facts  which  must  excite  our 
astonishment,  when  we  reflect  that  the  design  has  had  to  be  labori- 
ously reproduced  in  mosaic-work.  The  mosaic  is  composed  of  num- 
berless cubes,  mostly  of  a  small  size;  a  calculation  has  indeed  been 
made  that  no  fewer  than  1,374,516  cubes  have  been  used  in  the 
work.  The  elegant  side-scenes  refer  to  Alexander's  visit  to  Egypt; 
and  perhaps  the  original  was  designed  in  that  country.  At  all  events, 
from  this  mosaic  we  gain  an  insight  into  the  method  pursued  by 
the  great  painters  in  their  works.  A  very  different  and  far  grander 
art  declares  itself  in  these  mosaics  than  in  the  wall-paintings.  The 
other  mosaics  found  in  this  mansion  also  rank  high  in  point  of 
beauty  as  well  as  in  precision  and  purity  of  drawing,  and  owing  to 
the  difficulties  of  reproduction  in  mosaic  consequent  on  the  nature 
of  the  material  the  fact  becomes  doubly  suggestive  that  in  effectual 
and  complete  mastery  of  drawing  there  is  nothing  in  the  whole 
range  of  Pompeian  pictures  to  surpass  the  border  of  masks,  garlands, 
foliage  and  fruits  of  the  Casa  del  Fauno  or  the  mosaics  attributed 
to  the  artist  Dioscorides.  But  we  may  well  delight  in  the  air  of 
cheerful  airy  grace  pervading  these  pictorial  decorations  of  Pom- 
peii ,  in  this  precious  heritage  of  Grecian  —  and  in  part  old  Gre- 
cian —  life  and  beauty  which  a  licentious  posterity  has  scattered 
over  its  dazzling  walls. 

The  peculiarities  and  characteristics  of  the  various  styles  of  Greek 
Architecture  may  easily  be  recognized.  In  the  Doiuo  Stile,  the  columns 
rise  immediately  from  the  floor  of  the  temple,  and  have  no  basis;  the  (lut- 
ings are   separated  from  each  other  merely  by  a  sharp  edge;   the  capital 


xlvi  HISTORY  OF  NAPLES. 

consists  of  an  echinus,  widening  from  below  upwards,  and  a  rectangular 
abacus  or  block  above;  the  lowest  member  of  the  entablature  is  an  un- 
divided architrave,  above  which  are  alternate  sunken  panels  (metopes)  and 
panels  with  three  perpendicular  grooves  (triglyphs).  In  the  Ionic  Sttle, 
each  column  has  a  special  basis ;  the  flutings  are  separated  by  very  narrow 
perpendicular  faces ;  the  capital  is  distinguished  by  the  curved  volutes  at 
each  side;  the  architrave  is  in  three  parts,  and  above  it  is  an  undivided 
frieze,  frequently  adorned  with  reliefs.  In  the  Corinthian  Style  the  ca- 
pital is  distinguished  by  its  acanthus-leaves  ;  the  architrave  resembles  that 
of  the  Ionic  style.  The  Tuscan  or  early-Italian  column  has  a  capital  al- 
lied to  the  Doric,  though  the  echinus  is  smaller;  the  columns  are  not 
fluted  and  each  has  a  special  basis.  —  The  following  technical  terms  may 
be  found  useful.  Temples  in  which  the  walls  project  at  the  sides  so  as 
to  be  flush  with  the  columns  are  called  temples  in  antis;  those  with  co- 
lumns only  in  front  are  called  prostyle;  those  -with  columns  at  both  ends, 
amphiprostyle;  those  with  columns  all  round,  peripteral.  Hypcelhral  Temples 
were  those  with  colonnades  surrounding  an  entirely  uncovered  court. 
There  wen1  no  temples  with  openings  in  the  roof  or  in  the  ceiling  of 
the  cella. 


History  of  the  Kingdom  of  Naples. 

The  former  kingdom  of  Naples  contained  at  the  end  of  1879 
10,414,000  inhab.  (including  Benevento) ,  and  is  divided  into '23 
provinces.  In  ancient  times  it  embraced  the  tribes  of  the  Volsci, 
Strumites,  Oscani,  Campanians,  Apulians,  Lucanians,  Calabrians, 
Bruttians,  Siculians ,  and  a  number  of  others  of  less  importance, 
all  of  whom  were  characterised  by  the  most  marked  peculiarities 
of  language ,  custom ,  and  political  constitution.  The  Oscaii  lan- 
guage ,  the  one  most  generally  spoken  ,  predominated  in  Samnium, 
Campania,  Lucania ,  and  Bruttium.  On  the  W.  and  S.W.  coast, 
and  especially  in  Sicily ,  Greek  colonists  settled  in  such  numbers 
that  the  S.  portion  of  the  Italian  peninsula  received  the  name  of 
Magna  Graecia.  After  the  war  against  Pyrrhus ,  king  of  Epirus, 
in  the  3rd  cent,  before  Christ,  the  Romans  became  masters  of  the 
land,  but  the  Greek  language  and  customs  continued  to  predominate 
until  an  advanced  period  in  the  Christian  era.  That  this  was  the 
case  in  the  time  of  the  early  emperors  has  been  distinctly  proved 
by  the  character  of  the  antiquities  of  the  excavated  Oscan  towns  of 
Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  After  the  fall  of  the  Western  Empire 
this  district  was  occupied  by  Ostrogoths  and  Lombards,  then  by 
Romans  from  the  E.  Empire ,  who  in  their  turn  were  constantly 
harassed  by  Arabian  bands  which  attacked  them  by  sea ,  and  who 
Anally  succumbed  in  the  11th  cent,  to  the  Norman  settlers.  The 
Hohenstaufen  family  next  held  the  country  from  1194  to  1254.  In 
12(>f>  Charles  of  Anjou  gained  possession  of  Naples  and  established 
his  dominion,  which  was  secured  by  the  cruel  execution  in  1268 
of  Conradin,  the  lawful  heir.  His  power  ,  however,  having  been 
impaired  by  the  Sicilian  Vespers,  30th  May,  1282,  rapidly  declined 
in  consequence  of  the  crimes   and  degeneracy  of  the  royal  family 


HISTORY  OF  NAPLES.  xlvii 

and  of  disastrous  wars  with  the  island  of  Sicily,  then  in  possession 
of  the  Aragonese.  Charles  VIII.  of  France,  as  heir  of  the  Anjou 
family,  undertook  a  campaign  against  Naples  and  gained  possession 
of  the  kingdom  in  a  few  days,  but  was  unable  to  retain  it.  His 
successor  Louis  XII.  allied  himself  with  Ferdinand  the  Catholic  of 
Spain  with  a  view  to  conquer  Naples ,  but  in  consequence  of  dis- 
sensions was  compelled  to  abandon  his  enterprise  after  the  victory  of 
Oonsalvo  da  Cordova  on  the  Liris.  Naples,  like  Sicily  and  Sardinia, 
then  yielded  to  the  power  of  Spain,  which  maintained  her  dominion 
till  1713.  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova  was  the  first  of  the  series  of  Spanish 
viceroys,  many  of' whom,  such  as  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  under 
Charles  V.  (1532-54),  did  much  to  promote  the  welfare  of  the 
country.  The  rule  of  others,  especially  during  the  17th  cent.,  was 
such  as  to  occasion  universal  distress  and  dissatisfaction  ,  a  mani- 
festation of  which  was  the  insurrection  under  Masaniello  at  Naples 
in  1647.  At  the  peace  of  Utrecht  in  1713  Philip  V.  of  Spain,  of 
the  house  of  Bourbon ,  ceded  Naples  and  Sicily  to  the  house  of 
Hapsburg ,  but  after  prolonged  conflicts  they  reverted  to  his  son 
Charles  in  1734,  under  the  name  of  the  'Kingdom  of  the  Two  Sici- 
lies'. Notwithstanding  revolutionary  disturbances,  the  Bourbons 
continued  to  reign  at  Naples  until  the  close  of  the  century.  In 
1806  Napoleon  I.  created  his  brother  Joseph  king  of  Naples ,  who 
was  succeeded  in  1808  by  his  brother-in-law  Joachim  Murat. 
In  June,  1815,  King  Ferdinand,  who  with  the  aid  of  the  English 
had  meanwhile  maintained  his  ground  in  Sicily,  returned  to 
Naples ,  and  in  his  person  the  Bourbon  dynasty  was  restored. 
The  following  October,  Joachim  Murat  ventured  to  land  at  Pizzo 
in  Calabria ,  but  was  captured ,  tried  by  court-martial ,  and  shot, 
15th  Oct.  1815.  Popular  dissatisfaction,  however,  still  continued, 
and  in  1820  a  rebellion  broke  out  in  Italy  and  Sicily,  but  it  was 
speedily  quelled  by  the  Austrians  under  Frimont  in  1821 ,  who 
occupied  the  country  till  1827.  King  Ferdinand  I.  was  succeeded 
in  1825  by  his  eldest  son  Francis  1.  ,  and  the  latter  in  1830  by 
Ferdinand  II. ,  whose  reign  was  characterised  by  an  uninterrupted 
succession  of  internal  struggles,  partly  in  Naples  and  partly  in  Si- 
cily ,  especially  after  the  year  1848.  In  the  spring  of  1859,  when 
the  war  between  Sardinia  and  Austria  broke  out  in  N.  Italy,  which 
by  the  peace  of  Villafranca  would  have  entirely  changed  the  inter- 
nal condition  of  Italy,  Ferdinand  II.  died,  and  his  son  Francis  II. 
(married  to  the  Princess  Mary  of  Bavaria)  was  compelled  to  yield 
to  the  storm  which  burst  forth  afresh.  In  May  ,  1860,  Garibaldi 
began  his  victorious  march  through  Sicily  and  Calabria,  which 
ended  at  Naples  in  August.  In  the  meantime  the  Piedmontese 
troops,  at  the  instigation  of  Cavour,  had  also  entered  the  kingdom 
of  Naples.  On  1st  Oct.  Francis  II.  was  defeated  at  a  skirmish  on 
the  "Volturno.  On  7th  Oct.  King  Victor  Emmanuel  and  Garibaldi 
entered  Naples  side  by  side  amid  the  greatest  popular  enthusiasm. 


xlviii  HISTORY  OF  NAPLES. 

Francis  was  then  besieged  at  Gaeta  from  4th  Nov.,  1860,  to  13th 
Feb.,  1861,  and  at  length  compelled  to  surrender  and  retire  to 
Rome. 

In  a  land ,  whose  history ,  like  its  volcanic  soil,  has  been  dis- 
turbed by  a  long  succession  of  internal  struggles ,  and  where  so 
many  and  so  different  nations  have  ruled,  repose  and  the  develop- 
ment of  civilisation  must  necessarily  be  difficult  of  attainment. 
The  present  government  has  adopted  a  wise  course  in  endeavouring 
to  raise  the  standard  of  national  education  ,  in  energetically  sup- 
pressing the  brigandage  in  the  provinces ,  and  the  'Camorra'  and 
gangs  of  thieves  in  the  city  ,  and  in  introducing  a  number  of  re- 
forms well  adapted  to  improve  the  condition  of  the  nation. 

Dates.  The  following  are  the  most  important  dates  in  the 
history  of  the  Kingdom  of  Naples  (comp.  pp.  237-2391. 

I.  Period.  The  Normans,  1042-1194:  1042,  William,  son  of 
Tancred  of  Hauteville ,  Comes  Apuliae.  —  1059,  Robert  Guiscard 
(i.  e.  'the  Cunning'),  Dux  Apulia  et  Calabriae.  —  1130,  Roger, 
proclaimed  king  after  the  conquest  of  Naples  and  Amalfi,  unites 
the  whole  of  Lower  Italy  and  Sicily.  —  1154-66,  William  I.  ('the 
Bad').  —  1166-89,  William  II.  ('the  Good').  —  1194,  William  III. 

II.  Period.  The  Hohenstaufen,  1194-1268:  1194,  Henry  VI. 
of  Germany,  I.  of  Naples.  —  1197,  Frederick  II.  —  1250,  Conrad. 

—  1254,  Manfred.  —  1268,  Conradin. 

III.  Period.  House  of  Anjou,  1265-1442 :  1265,  Charles  I.  of 
Anjou.  From  1282  to  1442  Sicily  formed  an  independent  king- 
dom under  the  house  of  Aragon.  —  1285,  Charles  II.,  'the  Lame'. 

—  1309,  Robert  'the  Wise'.  —  1343,  Johanna  I.  (married  Andreas 
of  Hungary).  —  1381,  Charles  III.  of  Durazzo.  —  1386,  Ladislaus. 

—  1414,  Johanna  II.  —  1435,  Renato  of  Anjou,  banished  by  Al- 
phonso  'the  Generous'. 

IV.  Period.  House  of  Aragon,  1442-1496  :  1442,  Alphonso  1., 
'the  Generous'.  After  his  death  Sicily  and  Naples  were  again 
separated.  —  1458,  Ferdinand  I.  —  1494,  Alphonso  II.  —  1495, 
Ferdinand  II.  —  1496,  Frederick  banished  (d.  1554  at  Tours,  the 
last  of  the  House  of  Aragon). 

V.  Period.  Spanish  Viceroys,  1503-1707.  —  On  7th  July, 
1707,  during  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  Count  Daun  marched 
into  Naples  and  established  the  Austrian  supremacy. 

VI.  Period.  Austrian  Viceroys,  1707-1734.  —  Charles  III.  of 
Bourbon,  crowned  at  Palermo  1734,  recognised  by  the  Peace  of 
Vienna  1738,  defeats  the  Austrians  at  Velletri  1744,  finally  re- 
cognised by  the  Peace  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  1748.  In  1758  Charles 
was  proclaimed  king  of  Spain  ,  and  resigned  the  crown  of  Naples 
and  Sicily  in  favour  of  his  son. 

VII.  Period.  The  Bourbons,  1734-1860:  1734,  Charles  III. — 
1759,  Ferdinand  IV.  (regency  during  his  minority  till  1767),  mar- 
ried Caroline  of  Austria,   sister  of  Joseph  II.,   but  a  monarch  of 


HISTORY  OF  NAPLES.  xlix 

very  different  character  from  the  latter.  —  23rd  Jan.  1799,  the 
Repubblica  Parthenopea  proclaimed  by  General  Championnet.  — 
14th  June,  1799,  the  French  banished.   Reaction  of  Cardinal  Ruffo. 

—  14th  Jan.,  1806,  Joseph  Buonaparte  established  by  Massena.  — 
15th  July,  1808,  Joachim  Murat,  king  of  Naples.  —  1816,  Ferdi- 
nand assumes  the  title  of  Ferdinand  I.  of  the  Two  Sicilies.  — 
1825,  Francis  I.  —1830,  Ferdinand  II.  — 1859,  Francis  II.  —21st 
Oct.  1860,  the  Kingdom  of  Naples  annexed  to  Italy  by  plebiscite. 

VIII.  Period.   House  of  Savoy.  Victor  Emmanuel  II.  (d.  1878). 

—  Since  1878,  Humbert  I. 


Art.  In  art,  as  in  literature ,  the  attainments  of  the  natives 
of  S.  Italy  have  been  insignificant.  The  Norman  Period,  however, 
under  Arabian  influence ,  produced  both  on  the  mainland  and  in 
Sicily  (p.  244)  works  of  architecture  and  sculpture  which  at  least 
hold  their  own  when  compared  with  the  contemporaneous  monu- 
ments of  Central  Italy.  These,  however,  are  not  found  in  the  metro- 
polis, but  at  the  seats  of  the  princes  and  bishops,  as  Bari,  Trani, 
Amalft,  Bavello,  and  Salerno.  The  art  of  decoration,  as  applied  in 
mosaic  flooring ,  pulpits ,  and  choir-screens ,  was  in  particular 
brought  to  great  perfection.  The  brazen  doors  ,  at  first  imported 
from  Constantinople,  were  afterwards  made  in  the  country  itself; 
thus  those  at  Canosa  were  executed  by  a  master  of  Amalfi,  and 
those  at  Bavello  and  Trani  are  the  work  of  a  native  of  the  place 
last  named.  The  arts  of  mosaic  composition  and  mural  painting 
were  sedulously  cultivated  in  S.  Italy  during  the  whole  of  the 
early  middle  ages ,  a  fact  mainly  due  to  the  constant  intercourse 
maintained  with  Byzantium.  —  In  the  Period  op  Giotto,  during 
which  great  advances  in  painting  were  made  throughout  the  rest 
of  the  peninsula,  S.  Italy  remained  nearly  inactive ,  content  to 
depend  on  foreign  artists  for  the  supply  of  her  artistic  wants. 
Thus  Arnolfo  di  Cambio ,  the  famous  Florentine  architect,  also 
practised  his  profession  in  the  South;  and  Pietro  Cavallini,  the 
most  celebrated  Roman  painter  at  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent., 
Giotto  himself  (in  S.  Chiara) ,  and  probably  Simone  Martini  of 
Siena,  all  left  memorials  of  their  skill  in  S.  Italy.  —  During 
the  Fifteenth  Century  the  realism  of  the  Flemish  school  of  the 
Van  Eycks  produced  a  marked  effect  on  Neapolitan  art.  The 
most  important  works  of  this  period  are  the  frescoes,  unfor- 
tunately in  poor  preservation ,  in  the  cloisters  of  S.  Severino  at 
Naples.  They  are  associated  with  the  name  of  Antonio  Solario, 
llo  Zingaro',  an  artist  of  whose  life  and  work  we  possess  most  im- 
perfect and  in  part  misleading  accounts.  To  judge  from  these 
paintings  he  was  related  in  style  to  the  Umbro-Florentine  school. 
Piero  and  Ippolito  Donzello  and  Simone  Papa  are  said  to  have 
been  pupils  of  Lo  Zingaro,  but  Piero  Donzello  at  any  rate  learned 
his  art  at  Florence. 

Baedeker.     Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  d 


1  HISTORY  OF  NAPLES. 

In  the  Sixteenth  Century  Raphael's  influence  extended  even 
to  Naples,  as  is  apparent  from  the  works,  among  others,  of  Andrea 
Sabbatini  of  Salerno,  known  as  Andrea  da  Salerno,  who  flourished 
in  1480-1545.  This  artist  studied  under  Raphael  at  Rome,  and, 
like  Polidoro  da  Caravaggio  (1495-1543),  was  one  of  the  foun- 
ders of  the  Neapolitan  school  of  the  17th  century.  —  In  the  Sev- 
enteenth Century  the  Neapolitan  school  is  characterised  by  its 
'naturalistic'  style.  Among  the  most  prominent  masters  were  the 
Spaniard  Giuseppe  Ribera,  surnamed  lo  Spagnoletto  (1588-1656), 
a  follower  of  Caravaggio;  the  Greek  Belisario  Corenzio  (1558- 
1643),  a  pupil  of  the  last;  Giambattista  Caracciolo  (d.  1641),  and 
his  able  pupil  Massimo  Stanzioni  (1585-1656).  The  school  of 
Spagnoletto  also  produced  Aniello  Falcone  (1600-65),  the  painter 
of  battle-scenes,  and  the  talented  landscape-painter  Salvator  Rosa 
(1615-1673).  In  1629  Domenichino  came  from  Rome  to  Naples,  to 
decorate  the  Cappella  del  Tesoro  for  the  Archbishop  ,  but  seems 
to  have  exercised  no  influence  upon  Neapolitan  art.  He  fled  to 
Frascati  in  1635,  to  escape  the  plots  laid  for  him  by  Ribera,  but 
returned  to  Naples  the  following  year  and  died  there  in  1641.  In 
Luca  Giordano  (1632-1705),  surnamed  Fa  Presto  from  his  rapid- 
ity of  execution,  who  also  worked  at  Rome,  Bologna,  Parma, 
and  Venice  ,  Neapolitan  painting  reached  a  still  lower  level.  — 
The  history  of  Neapolitan  art  is  as  yet  imperfectly  investigated, 
but  there  seems  little  reason  to  doubt  that  farther  research  will 
serve  to  confirm  the  conclusion  that  Naples  has  never  been  able  to 
dispense  with  the  assistance  of  foreign  artists. 


1 .  From  Rome  to  Naples  by  Railway, 

Two  main  roads  lead  from  Rome  to  Naples :  one  along  the  coast  by 
Terracina  (R.  2),  the  ancient  Via  Appia ;  the  other  through  the  valley  of 
the  Sacco  and  Garigliano,  the  Via  Latina;  both  uniting  near  Capua.  The 
Railway,  following  the  latter  route  (154!/2  M.  in  length),  is  now  the  most 
important  means  of  communication  between  Central  and  Southern  Italy. 
Duration  of  journey  5l/4-ll  hrs.;  fares  by  the  fast  trains,  31  fr.,  21  fr.  70  c. ; 
by  the  ordinary  trains,  28  fr.  15,  19  fr.  70,  12  fr.  70  c.  —  Comp.  p.  xvi.  The 
finest  views  are  generally  to  the  left.  —  For  a  more  detailed  description 
of  the  stations  between  Rome  and  Segni,  see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  city,  the  train  diverges  from  the  Civita 
Vecchia  line.  The  Sabine  and  Alban  mountains  rise  on  the  left. 
9  M.  Ciampino  is  the  junction  of  the  lines  to  Frascati  and  to  Velletri- 
Terracina  (p.  11).  The  Naples  line  turns  to  the  E.  and  passes  be- 
tween the  Alban  mountains,  on  the  riglit,  and  the  Sabine  moun- 
tains, on  the  left.  16  M.  Monte  Compatri,  situated  to  the  right,  on 
the  slope  of  the  Alban  Mts.  21 1/2  M-  Zagarolo;  22l/2  M.  Palestrina, 
both  to  the  left,  on  the  slope  of  the  Sabine  Mts.  26Y2  M.  Labico. 
—  281/2  M.  Valmontone,  a  small  town  on  an  isolated  volcanic  emi- 
nence, possessing  a  handsome  chateau  of  the  Doria  Pamphili.  The 
train  now  enters  the  valley  of  the  Sacco,  the  ancient  Trerus  or  To- 
lerus,  and  skirts  its  left  bank,  running  parallel  with  the  ancient  Via 
Latina.  To  the  right  Monte  Fortino,  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
hillside. 

33  M.  Segni,  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Velletri  (p.  11),  -which  is 
now  used  by  local  trains  only.  The  old  town  of  Segni  (Locanda  di 
Ulisse  Colagiacomo) ,  a  very  ancient  place,  the  Signia  of  the  Ro- 
mans, said  to  have  been  colonised  by  Tarquinius  Priscus  and  still 
possessing  huge  remnants  of  the  ancient  walls  and  gateways  ,  is 
situated  on  a  hill  to  the  right,  about  5!/2  M.  from,  the  railway.  See 
Baedeker  s  Central  Italy. 

39  M.  Anagni  (*Locanda  Oallo),  once  a  flourishing  town,  and 
in  the  middle  ages  frequently  a  papal  residence,  lies  on  the  heights 
to  the  left,  5M.  from  the  station  (omnibus  1  fr.).  Pope  Innocent  III., 
Count  of  Segni,  was  born  here  in  1161  (d.  1216).  At  Anagni 
on  7th  Sept.  1303,  Pope  Boniface  VIII.,  then  considerably  ad- 
vanced in  years ,  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  French  chancellor 
Guillaume  de  Nogaret,  acting  in  concert  with  the  Colonnas,  by 
order  of  King  Philippe  le  Bel,  but  was  set  at  liberty  by  the 
people  three  days  afterwards.  The  Cattedrale  di  S.  Maria,  a  well- 
preserved  edifice  of  the  11th  cent. ,  and  pure  in  style,  is  adorned 
with  a  mosaic  pavement  by  the  master  Cosmas ,  and  in  the  crypt 
with  ancient  frescoes.  The  treasury  contains  ancient  papal  vest- 
ments, etc.    The  ancient  town-wall,  which  probably  dates  from  the 

Baedeker.     Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  1 


2      Route  1.  ALATRI.  From  Rome 

Roman  period,  is  well  preserved,  particularly  on  the  N.  side. 
Remains  from  the  middle  ages  are  abundant. 

The  next  towns,  with  the  imposing  ruins  of  their  ancient 
polygonal  walls,  are  also  situated  on  the  hills  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  line.  This  is  the  territory  of  the  Hernici,  with 
the  towns  of  Anagnia,  Aletrium,  Ferentinum,  and  Verulae,  which 
allied  themselves  with  Rome  and  Latium  in  B.C.  486,  but  were 
subjugated  by  the  Romans,  after  an  insurrection,  in  B.C.  306.  The 
environs  of  these  towns  are  picturesque. 

42 M.  Sgurgola  (from  which  Anagni  may  also  be  reached :  33/4M.) 
is  a  village  on  the  hill  to  the  right,  above  the  Sacco ;  still  higher  is 
Carpineto.  —  45'/2  M.  Morolo. 

48y2  M.  Ferentino.  The  town  (poor  Locanda),  situated  on  the 
hill  (1450  ft.)  to  the  left,  3  M.  from  the  line,  the  ancient  Ferenti- 
num, a  town  of  the  Hernici,  was  destroyed  in  the  2nd  Punic  War, 
and  afterwards  became  a  Roman  colony  (pop.  11,000).  The  ancient 
town-wall,  constructed  partly  of  enormous  rectangular  blocks  and 
partly  in  the  polygonal  style,  is  still  traceable  throughout  nearly 
its  whole  circuit;  a  gateway  on  the  W.  side  especially  deserves 
notice.  The  castle,  the  walls  of  which  now  form  the  foundation  of 
the  episcopal  palace,  occupies  the  highest  ground  within  the  town. 
The  Cathedral  is  paved  with  remains  of  ancient  marbles  and  mosaics. 
The  font  in  the  small  church  of  8.  Giovanni  Evangelista  is  ancient. 
Interesting  antiquities  and  inscriptions  will  also  be  observed  in 
other  parts  of  the  town. 

A  diligence  (lfr.)  plies  several  times  daily  from  the  station  to(9VzM.) 
the  town  of  Alatri  (Locanda  Centrale,  clean)  the  ancient  Aletrium, 
picturesquely  situated  on  an  eminence  to  the  N.,  and  presenting  an 
admirably  preserved  specimen  of  the  fortifications  of  an  ancient  city. 
The  town  with  its  gates  occupies  the  exact  site  of  the  old  town.  The  "Walls 
of  the  castle,  constructed  of  huge  polygonal  blocks,  are  still  entire ;  the 
gateway  attracts  special  attention  on  account  of  the  stupendous  dimensions 
of  the  stones  of  which  it  is  composed.  The  town  and  castle  were  provided 
with  an  aqueduct  —  At  a  distance  of  3  M.  is  the  famous  Grolta  di  Colle- 
pardo ,  extending  upwards  of  2000  ft.  into  the  limestone  rock,  with 
beautiful  stalactites.  About  3/4  -^-  farther  is  observed  an  extensive  depres- 
sion in  the  soil,  called  II  Pozzo  d"Antullo  ,  several  hundred  yards  in  cir- 
cumference and  200  ft.  in  depth,  overgrown  with  grass  and  underwood. 

On  a  hill ,  about  5  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Alatri ,  is  situated  Veroli ,  the 
ancient  Verulae,  from  which  a  pleasant  road  leads  to  Isola  (p.  188;  carriage 
from  Alatri  to  Isola  10-12  fr.). 

53i/2M-  Frosinone.  The  town  (Locandade  Matteis ;  pop.  11,000), 
situated  on  the  hill,  2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  railway,  is  identical 
with  the  ancient  Hernician  Frusino,  which  was  conquered  by  the 
Romans  in  B.C.  304.  The  relics  of  walls  and  other  antiquities  are 
scanty,  but  the  situation  is  very  beautiful. 

57  M.  Ceccano.  The  village  is  most  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
hillside ,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Sacco,  the  valley  of  which 
now  contracts.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  to  the  left  of  the  river, 
once  lay  the  ancient  Fabrateria  Vetus,  numerous  inscriptions  from 
which    are    built  into  th»  walls  of  the  church  by  the  bridge.     A 


to  Naples.  AQUINO.  1 .  Route.      3 

road  leads  from  Ceccano  over  the  hills  to  Piperno  and  Terracina 
(P-  13). 

62y2  M.  Pofi.  —  69  M.  Ceprano  {Rail.  Restaurant,  the  last  of 
any  size  before  Naples).  Outside  the  station  a  pleasing  glimpse  is 
obtained  of  the  valleys  of  the  Liris  and  the  Tolerus.  The  town  of  Ce- 
prano is  2^2  M.  from  the  station.  — The  train  now  crosses  the  Liris, 
which  descends  from  the  N.,  forming  the  old  boundary  of  the  States 
of  the  Church.  —  70  M.  Isoletta. 

In  the  vicinity,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Liris,  in  the  direction  of 
S.  Giovanni  in  Carico,  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  ancient  Fregellae,  a 
Roman  colony  founded  in  B.  C.  328,  and  a  point  of  great  military  im- 
portance, as  it  commanded  the  passage  of  the  river.  It  was  destroyed 
by  the  Romans  in  B.  C.  125,  in  consequence  of  an  insurrection,  and  Fabra- 
teria  Nova  was  founded  in  its  stead.  A  number  of  antiquities  may  be 
seen  in  the  Qiardino  Cairo,  at  the  village  of  S.  Giovanni  in  Carico,  3  M. 
from  the  station. 

The  train  now  traverses  the  broad  and  fertile  valley  of  the  Liris, 
or  Garigliano,  as  it  is  called  after  its  union  with  the  Sacco.  75  M. 
Roccasecca ;  branch  -  line  to  Sora,  which  is  to  be  carried  on  to 
Avezzano  (see  R.  14). 

78  M.  Aquino,  the  ancient  Aquinum ,  a  small  town  pictur- 
esquely situated  to  the  left  on  the  hill  and  on  a  mountain-stream, 
is  celebrated  as  the  birthplace  of  the  satirist  Juvenal  (under  Nero) 
and  of  the  philosopher  Thomas  Aquinas.  The  illustrious  'doctor 
angelicus',  son  of  Count  Landulf,  was  born  in  1224  in  the  neigh- 
bouring castle  of  Rocca  Secca,  and  was  educated  in  the  monastery 
of  Monte  Cassino  (p.  5).  The  Emperor  Pescennius  Niger  was  also  a 
native  of  Aquinum.  By  the  side  of  the  Via  Latina  may  be  distin- 
guished the  relics  of  the  ancient  Roman  town  :  inconsiderable  frag- 
ments of  walls,  a  gateway  (Porta  S.  Lorenzo),  a  theatre,  remains 
of  temples  of  Ceres  (8.  Pietro)  and  Diana  (8.  Maria  Maddalena),  and 
a  triumphal  arch.  Near  the  stream  are  the  ruins  of  8.  Maria  Libera, 
a  basilica  of  the  11th  cent.,  commonly  called  II  Vescovado,  occupying 
the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  ,  and  consisting  of  handsome  nave 
and  aisles.  Above  the  portal  is  a  well-preserved  Madonna  in  mosaic. 

Beyond  Aquino,  on  a  bleak  mountain  to  the  left,  the  cele- 
brated monastery  of  Monte  Cassino  (p.  5)  becomes  visible. 

851/2 SI.  Cassino. —  Inns,  outside  the  town:  Alb.  Pompei,  tysM.  from 
the  station,  prettily  situated,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3,  pens,  from  5'/2  fr.  ;  Alb.  Cas- 
sino ;  Alb.  Varkone,  on  the  site  of  the  villa  of  M.  Terentius  Varro  (p.  5), 
well  spoken  of. 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  the  town:  run  posto',  i.e.  a  seat  in  a 
carriage,  50  c,  at  night  1  fr. ;  Carrozzella,  i.e.  a  small  vehicle  with  one 
horse,  lb  c.  or  I1/2  fr. ;  'Carrozza',  I1/2  or  3  fr.  —  From  the  station  to  the 
top  of  Monte  Cassino:  by  day,  carrozzella,  1  pers.  3  fr.,  2  pers.  4  fr. ;  car- 
rozza, 1  pers.  5,  2-3  pers.  6,  4-5  pers.  7  fr. ;  at  night,  one  or  more  pers. 
10  fr.  These  fares  include  the  return.  For  waiting  at  the  top,  iy2  fr.  is 
charged  for  a  carrczzella  up  to  3  hrs.,  2  fr.  for  a  carrozza.  —  Donkey  to 
Monte  Cassino  1  fr.,  with  guide  and  light  luggage,  l'/2  fr. 

A  Visit  to  Monte  Cassino  requires  about  5  hours.  (Luggage  may  be  left 
at  the  station  in  exchange  for  a  receipt.)  The  excursion  should  be  so 
arranged   that  the    traveller  may   return  to   the  town   a  considerable  time 

1* 


4      Route  1 . 


CASSINO. 


From  Rome 


before  sunset ;  at  the  same  time  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  visitors 
are  strictly  excluded  from  12  to  3.30  p.m.  The  monastery  affords  good 
quarters  for  the  night,  although  the  fare  is  sometimes  of  a  frugal  description. 
No  payment  is  demanded,  but  the  traveller  should  give  about  as  much  as 
he  would  have  paid  at  a  hotel.  Ladies  are  of  course  admitted  to  the  church 
only.  Travellers  who  wish  to  spend  the  night  or  dine  here  should  apply 
immediately  on  arriving  to  the  padre  forestieraio.  Letters  of  introduction 
will  be  found  very  useful.  At  an  early  hour  on  Sundays  and  holidays 
the  church  and  courts  of  the  monastery  are  crowded  with  country -people 
from  the  neighbouring  mountain  districts,  whose  characteristic  physiognomies 
and  costumes  will  be  scanned  with  interest  by  the  traveller. 

Cassino,  formerly  called  San  Germano,  a  town  with  13,500 
inhab. ,  is  picturesquely  situated  in  the  plain  at  the  foot  of  the 
Monte  Cassino,  on  the  small  river  Rapido  (Lat.  Vinius),  3/4M.  from 


the  station,  and  is  commanded  by  a  ruined  castle,  called  La  Rocca. 
It  occupies  nearly  the  same  site  as  the  ancient  Casinum,  which  was 
colonised  by  the  Romans  in  B.  C.  312,  and  was  afterwards  a  flourish- 
ing provincial  town.  On  its  ruins  sprang  up  San  Germano  during 
the  middle  ages.  Pillars  of  great  antiquity  are  still  to  be  seen  in 
the  churches.  Various  courts  have  been  held  here  by  popes  and  em- 
perors, and  in  1230  peace  was  concluded  here  between  Gregory  IX. 
and  Frederick  II.  The  foggy  character  of  the  climate  is  alluded  to 
by  the  ancients. 

The  town  presents  few  objects  of  interest.  Following  the  Ro- 
man road  to  the  S.  for  i/2  M.,  we  see,  on  the  right,  the  colossal  re- 
mains of  an  * Amphitheatre,  which,  according  to  an  inscription  pre- 
served at  Monte  Cassino ,  was  erected  by  Ummidia  Quadratilla  at 
her  own  expense.   The  foundress  is  mentioned  by  Pliny  in  his  letters 


to  Naples.  MONTE  CASSINO.  1.  Route.     5 

(vii.  24)  as  a  lady  of  great  wealth,  who  even  in  her  old  age  was  an 
ardent  admirer  of  theatrical  performances.  Farther  on,  and  a  little 
higher  up,  stands  a  square  monument  built  of  large  blocks  of  tra- 
vertine, with  four  niches,  and  surmounted  by  a  dome,  now  convert- 
ed into  the  church  *Del  Crocefisso  (custodian  3-i  soldi).  Opposite, 
on  the  bank  of  the  Rapido,  lay  the  villa  of  M.  Terentius  Varro, 
where,  as  we  are  informed  by  Cicero  (Phil.  ii.  40),  M.  Antony 
afterwards  indulged  in  his  wild  orgies.  —  The  path  leading  back 
to  the  town  from  the  Crocefisso  is  probably  the  ancient  Via  Latina, 
and  traces  of  ancient  pavement  are  occasionally  observed.  From  this 
path,  by  keeping  to  the  high  ground  to  the  left,  we  may  proceed 
to  Monte  Cassino  without  returning  to  the  town. 

The  monastery  of  *Monte  Cassino,  situated  on  a  lofty  hill  to 
the  W.  of  the  town,  is  reached  in  ll/-2  hr.  The  road  affords  ex- 
quisite views  of  the  valley  of  the  Garigliano  and  the  surrounding 
mountains.  The  monastery  was  founded  by  St.  Benedict  in  529,  on 
the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  of  Apollo,  to  which  Dante  alludes 
(Parad.  xxii.  37),  and  from  its  magnificent  situation  alone  would 
be  entitled  to  a  visit.  The  monastery,  which  has  been  declared  to 
be  a  'National  Monument',  and  which  continues  its  existence  in 
the  form  of  an  educational  establishment,  has  ever  been  conspicuous 
for  the  admirable  manner  in  which  its  inmates  have  discharged  their 
higher  duties.  They  are  the  intelligent  keepers  of  one  of  the  most 
precious  libraries  in  the  world,  and  they  educate  about  eighty  stu- 
dents of  theology.  The  monks  at  present  number  about  thirty,  and 
there  are  ten  lay  brethren,  twenty  pupils  of  the  upper  classes,  and 
numerous  servants.  The  institution  also  comprises  a  telegraph-office 
and  a  printing-office.  The  revenues  once  amounted  to  100,000  du- 
cats per  annum,  but  are  now  reduced  to  about  20,000.  The  exten- 
sive edifice  resembles  a  castle  rather  than  a  monastery. 

The  present  entrance  was  constructed  in  1881,  to  the  right  of  the 
low  passage  through  the  rock  which  was  formerly  used;  near  the  latter 
St.  Benedict  is  said  to  have  had  his  cell,  which  has  lately  been  restored 
and  decorated  with  frescoes.  Several  Coukts  are  connected  by  arcades. 
The  first  one  has  a  fountain  of  very  good  water,  adorned  with  statues 
of  St.  Benedict  and  his  sister  St.  Scholastica.  On  a  square  space  higher 
up,  enclosed  by  columns  from  the  ancient  temple  of  Apollo ,  stands  the 
Church,  erected  in  1727  to  replace  the  ancient  edifice  founded  by  St. 
Benedict.  The  fortunes  of  the  abbey  are  recorded  in  Latin  above  the 
entrance  of  the  hall.  The  principal  door  of  the  church  is  of  bronze 
and  is  inscribed  with  a  list,  inlaid  in  silver,  of  all  the  possessions  of  the 
abbey  in  1066.  It  was  executed  at  Constantinople  by  order  of  the  Abbot 
Desiderius,  afterwards  (1086)  Pope  Victor  III.  The  interior  is  richly  de- 
corated with  marble,  mosaics,  and  paintings.  On  each  side  of  the  high- 
altar  is  a  mausoleum;  one  to  the  memory  of  Piero  de'  Medici  (p.  18),  who 
was  drowned  in  the  Garigliano  in  1503,  executed  by  Francesco  Sangallo  by 
order  of  Clement  VII.  ;  the  other  that  of  Guidone  Fieramosca,  last  Prince 
of  Mignano.  Beneath  the  high-altar,  with  its  rich  marble  decorations,  re- 
pose the  remains  of  St.  Benedict  and  his  sister  St.  Scholastica.  The  sub- 
terranean chapel  contains  paintings  by  Marco  da  Siena  and  Mazzaroppi. 
The  choir-stalls  are  adorned  with  admirable  carving  (by  Coliccio,  1696), 
and  the  chapels  adjoining  the  altar  with  costly  mosaics.  Above  the  doors 
and  on  the  ceiling  are  frescoes  by  Luca  Giordano  (1677),  representing  the 


6     Route  1 .  MONTE  OASSINO.  From  Rome 

miracles  of  St.  Benedict  and  the  foundation  of  the  church.  The  organ  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  Italy.  In  the  refectory  is  a  'Miracle  of  the  Loaves',  by  Sassano. 

At  a  very  early  period  the  Library  was  celebrated  for  the  MSS. 
executed  by  the  monks.  To  the  Abbot  Desiderius  of  the  11th  cent,  we 
are  probably  indebted  for  the  preservation  of  Varro,  and  perhaps  of  other 
authors.  The  handsome  saloon  at  present  contains  a  collection  of  about 
10,000  vols.,  among  which  are  numerous  rare  editions  published  during  the 
infancy  of  the  printer's  art.  The  MSS.  and  documents  are  preserved  m  the 
archives,  in  the  passage  leading  to  which  a  number  of  inscriptions  are  built 
into  the  wall,  most  of  them  rescued  from  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Casinum. 
Among  the  MSS.  are :  the  commentary  of  Origen  on  the  Epistle  to  the 
Romans,  translated  by  Rufus,  dating  from  the  6th  cent. ;  a  Dante  with  mar- 
ginal notes,  of  the  14th  cent,  (the  archives  contain  an  interesting  portrait 
of  the  poet) ;  the  vision  of  the  monk  Alberic,  which  is  said  to  have  sug- 
gested the  first  idea  on  which  Dante  founded  his  work;  various  classical 
authors,  the  original  MSS.  of  Leo  of  Ostia  and  Riccardo  di  San  Germano. 
The  "Archives  comprise  a  still  rarer  collection,  consisting  of  about  800 
documents  of  emperors,  kings,  dukes,  etc.,  and  the  complete  series  of 
papal  bulls  which  relate  to  Monte  Cassino,  beginning  with  the  11th  cent., 
many  of  them  with  admirable  seals  and  impressions.  Among  the  letters 
are  those  exchanged  by  Don  Erasmo  Gattola,  the  historian  of  the  abbey, 
with  learned  contemporaries.  At  the  end  of  an  Italian  translation  of 
Boccaccio's  'De  Claris  Mulieribus'  is  a  letter  of  Sultan  Mohammed  II.  to 
Pope  Nicholas  IV.,  complaining  of  the  pontiff's  preparations  for  war  and 
promising  to  be  converted  as  soon  as  he  should  visit  Rome,  together 
with  an  unfavourable  answer  from  the  pope.  An  ancient  bath-seat  in 
rosso  antico,  found  on  the  bank  of  the  Liris,  is  also  preserved  here.  The 
tower  in  which  St.  Benedict  is  said  to  have  lived  contains  pictures  by 
Novelli,  Spagnoletto,  and  others. 

The  monastery  commands  a  magnificent  'Prospect  in  all  directions, 
which  the  visitor  should  not  omit  to  enjoy  from  the  different  points  of 
view.  To  the  W.  and  S.  extends  the  broad  valley  of  the  Garigliano  with 
its  numerous  villages ,  separated  from  the  Gulf  of  Gaeta  by  a  range  of 
hills,  and  the  sea  is  occasionally  distinguishable.  To  the  E.  is  the  valley 
of  S.  Germano,  commanded  by  the  rocky  summits  of  the  Abruzzi.  To  the 
N.  a  wild  mountainous  district. 

Close  to  the  Monte  Cassino  rises  the  Monte  Cairo  (5480  ft.),  which  may 
be  ascended  in  3-4  hrs.;  the  view  from  the  summit  is  considered  one  of 
the  finest  in  Italy. 

Continuation  of  Journey  to  Naples.  To  the  left,  beyond 
S.  Germano,  we  perceive  the  villages  of  Cervaro,  S.  Vittore,  and 
8.  Pietro  in  Fine.  92  M.  Rocca  d'Evandro.  The  train  quits  the 
valley  of  the  Garigliano,  and  enters  a  richly  cultivated  defile,  beyond 
which  the  country  towards  the  right  becomes  flatter.  96  M.  Mig- 
nano.  The  train  now  runs  through  a  barren,  undulating  tract. 
101  M.  Presenzano,  which  lies  on  the  slope  to  the  left. 

105'/2  M.  Caianello-Vairano,  whence  a  high-road  leads  via  Sol- 
mona  (R.  13)  to  Pescara  on  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  and  to  Aquila  and 
Terni.  A  railway  has  been  opened  as  far  as  Rocca  Ravindola  (p.  186). 

110  M.  Riardo ;  the  village,  with  an  old  castle,  lies  on  the  left. 

113  M.  Teano;  the  town  (Locanda  dell'  Italia;  5000  inhab.) 
lies  at  some  distance  to  the  right,  at  the  base  of  the  lofty  Rocca 
Monfina,  an  extinct  volcano  (3420  ft.),  which  may  be  visited  from 
this  point.  The  extensive,  but  dilapidated  old  castle  was  erected 
in  the  15th  cent,  by  the  dukes  of  Sessa.  Ancient  columns  in  the 
cathedral,  inscriptions,  remains  of  a  theatre,   and  other  antiquities 


to  Naples.  CAPUA.  1.  Route.     7 

are  now  the  sole  vestiges  of  the  venerable  Teanurn  Sidicinum,  once 
the  capital  of  the  Sidicini,  which  was  conquered  by  the  Samnites 
in  the  4th  cent.  B.C.,  afterwards  subjugated  by  the  Romans,  and 
in  Strabo's  time  the  most  flourishing  inland  city  of  Campania  after 
Capua. 

118  M.  Sparanise,  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Gaeta  (p.  17). 

To  the  left,  about  4  M.  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  railway,  lies  Calvi,  the 
ancient  Gales,  a  Roman  colony  founded  B.  C.  332,  the  wine  of  which 
(vinum  Calenum)  is  praised  by  Horace.  It  now  consists  of  a  few  houses 
only,  but  contains  an  ancient  amphitheatre,  a  theatre,  and  other  anti- 
quities.    Carriage  with  one  horse  from  Capua,  and  back,  2-3  fr. 

As  the  train  proceeds  we  obtain  for  the  first  time  a  view  of  Mt. 
Vesuvius  in  the  distance  to  the  right,  and  then  of  the  island  of 
Ischia  in  the  same  direction.  121  ^  M.  Pignataro.  The  train  here 
intersects  the  plain  of  the  Volturno,  a  river  94  M.  in  length,  the 
longest  in  Lower  Italy.  "We  now  enter  upon  the  vast  plains  of  the 
ancient  Campania  (now  Terra  di  Lavoro),  one  of  the  most  luxuriant 
districts  in  Europe ,  which  is  capable  of  yielding ,  in  addition  to 
the  produce  of  the  dense  plantations  of  fruit-trees  and  vines,  two 
crops  of  grain  and  one  of  hay  in  the  same  season. 

127  M.  Capua.  —  Albekgo  &  Teattoeia  del  Centeo,  in  the 
Piazza  de*  Giudici.  —  Carriage  from  the  station  to  the  town  with  one 
horse  (cittadina)  30,  with  two  horses  (carrozza)  50  c;  per  hour,  1  or  2  fr. ; 
to  Caserta,  2  or  4  fr. ;  to  Aversa  3  or  6  fr. ;  to  S.  Maria  di  Capua  Vetere 
1  or  2  fr.;  to  8.  Angelo  in  Formis  1  fr.  20  or  2  fr.  50  c. 

Capua,  a  fortified  town  with  14,000  inhab.,  the  residence  of 
an  archbishop,  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Volturno,  by  which  the 
greater  part  of  it  is  surrounded.  It  was  erected  in  the  9th  cent., 
after  the  destruction  of  the  ancient  Capua,  on  the  site  of  Casi- 
linum,  a  town  which  was  conquered  by  Hannibal  after  an.  obstinate 
resistance,  and  fell  to  decay  in  the  time  of  the  emperors. 

Turning  to  the  right  on  entering  the  town,  and  taking  the  first 
street  to  the  left,  we  reach  the  Piazza  de'  Giudici,  or  market-place, 
in  6  min.,  and  then  enter  the  Via  del  Duomo  to  the  right. 

The  Cathedral,  dating  from  the  11th  cent.,  possesses  a  hand- 
some entrance-court  with  ancient  columns,  but  in  other  respects 
has  been  entirely  modernised. 

Inteeiob.  3rd  Chapel  on  the  left:  Madonna  della  Rosa  of  the  13th 
century.  3rd  Chapel  on  the  right:  Madonna  with  two  saints  by  Silvestro 
de'  Buoni.  The  Ceypt,  dating  from  the  Romanesque  period,  but  now  mod- 
ernised, contains  Mosaics  from  an  old  pulpit,  a  Roman  Sarcophagus  with 
a  representation  of  the  Hunt  of  Meleager,  and  a  Holy  Sepulchre  by  Ber- 
nini, being  one  of  his  best  works. 

The  Via  del  Duomo,  passing  through  an  archway,  leads  to  the 
Corso  Museo  Campano.  (Proceeding  thence  in  a  straight  direction, 
we  may  reach  the  ramparts,  which  command  a  pleasing  view  of 
the  Volturno.)  In  this  street,  on  the  right,  is  situated  the  Museo 
Campano,  which  is  entered  from  the  first  side-street  on  the  right. 
It  is  open  daily,  9-3  o'  clock,  except  on  Sundays  and  festivals. 

The  Cooet  contains  reliefs  from  the  amphitheatre  of  Capua  (see  p.  8) ; 


8     Route  1.       S.  MARIA  DI  CAPUA  VETERE.     From  Rome 

inscriptions ;  ancient  sarcophagi ,  including  one  of  the  period  of  Con 
stantine;  mediaeval  tomb-monuments ;  a  sitting  statue  of  Frederick  II. 
(sadly  mutilated  and  without  its  head),  which  formerly  surmounted  the 
gateway  of  the  tete-de-pont  constructed  by  him  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Volturno  about  1240,  and  destroyed  in  1557 ;  heads  of  statues  of  Petrus 
de  Vineis  (?)  and  Thaddseus  of  Suessa  (?),  and  a  colossal  head  of  Capua 
Imperiale'  (casts  at  theMuseo  Nazionale  in  Naples),  also  from  Frederick Il.'g 
tete-de-pont.  The  rooms  in  the  Interior  contain  ancient  terracottas,  vases, 
coins,  a  few  pictures  of  little  value,  and  a  small  library. 

The  bridge  across  the  Volturno,  restored  in  1756,  is  adorned 
with  a  statue  of  St.  Nepomuc.  Beyond  it  is  an  inscription  in 
memory  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  The  Torre  Mignana  within, 
and  the  Cappella  de'  Morti  without  the  town  commemorate  the 
sanguinary  attack  made  on  Capua  by  Csesar  Borgia  in  1501,  on 
which  occasion  5000  lives  were  sacrificed. 

On  our  left  after  the  train  has  crossed  the  Volturno,  lies  the 
battle-field  on  which  King  Francis  II.  was  defeated  by  the  Gari- 
baldians  and  Piedmontese  on  1st  Oct.,  1860. 

130  M.  S.  Maria  di  Capua  Vetere  {hoc.  Roma;  Trattoria  Ver- 
mont di  Torino,  Via  AlessandroMilbitz,leadingto  the  Amphitheatre) 
is  a  prosperous  town,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Capua,  containing 

considerable  ruins. 

Capua,  founded  by  the  Etruscans  and  afterwards  occupied  by  Samnite 
tribes,  entered  into  alliance  with  the  Romans  B.C.  343,  for  the  sake  of  protec- 
tion against  the  attacks  of  theSamnites  of  the  mountains.  Owing  to  the  luxur- 
iant fertility  of  the  district,  the  power  and  wealth  of  the  city  developed  them- 
selves at  an  early  period.  It  was  the  largest  city  in  Italy  after  Rome,  but  soon 
became  noted  for  its  effeminacy  and  degeneracy.  In  the  2nd  Punic  War,  after  the 
battle  of  Cannae  (B.  C.  216), it  entered  into  an  alliance  with  Hannibal,  who  took 
up  his  winter-quarters  here.  That  his  soldiers  became  so  enervated  by  their 
residence  at  Capua  as  no  longer  to  be  amatch  for  the  Romans,  is  doubtless  a  mere 
hypothesis.  Certain,  however,  it  is,  that  the  Romans  soon  obtained  the  su- 
periority, and  after  along  siege  reduced  the  town,  B.  C.  211.  Its  punishment 
was  a  severe  one,  and  the  inhabitants  were  entirely  deprived  of  all  civic  pri- 
vileges. It  was  rescued  from  its  abject  condition  by  Csesar,  and  under  his  suc- 
cessors regained  its  ancient  splendour.  It  continued  to  prosper  until  the  wars 
of  the  Goths,  Vandals,  and  Lombards.  In  the  8th  cent,  it  was  destroyed  by  the 
Saracens,  and  the  inhabitants  emigrated  to  the  modern  Capua  (p.  7). 

Proceeding  straight  from  the  station,  taking  the  first  street  to 
the  left,  and  following  the  Via  Alessandro  Milbitz  in  nearly  the  same 
direction  to  its  farther  end  (5  min.),  we  turn  to  the  left  into  the 
Via  Anflteatro  which  leads  in  a  curve  round  the  town  to  (10  min.) 
the  ancient  amphitheatre.  Before  reaching  it,  we  cross  an  open  space 
where  we  observe  on  the  left  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  Triumphal  Arch, 
now  a  gate,  through  which  the  Capua  road  passes. 

The  *Amphithbatre  of  Capua  (adm.  1  fr.  for  each  pers.),  which 
is  said  to  be  one  of  the  largest  and  most  ancient  in  Italy,  is  con- 
structed of  travertine.  The  longer  diameter  is  185  yds.,  the  shorter 
152  yds.  in  length.    The  arena  measures  83  yds.  by  49  yds. 

Three  of  its  passages  are  tolerably  well  preserved,  but  of  the  80  en- 
trance-arches two  only.  The  keystones  are  decorated  with  images  of  gods. 
The  Arena,  with  its  substructures,  passages,  and  dens  for  the  wild  beasts 
(to  which  a  staircase  descends  from  the  passage  to  the  left),  is,  like  that 


to  Naples.  CASERTA.  1.  Route.      9 

of  Pozzuoli,  better  defined  than  the  arena  of  tlie  Colosseum  at  Koine.  The 
Passages  contain  remains  of  ancient  decorations ,  fragments  of  columns, 
bas-reliefs,  etc.  To  the  right,  near  the  entrance,  the  visitor  may  ascend 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  structure,  in  order  to  obtain  a  survey  of  the  ruins 
themselves,  and  of  the  extensive  surrounding  plain.  Large  schools  were 
once  maintained  at  Capua  for  the  training  of  gladiators,  and  it  was  here 
in  B.C.  83,  that  the  dangerous  War  of  the  Gladiators  under  Sparlacus  the 
Thracian  broke  out,  which  was  with  difficulty  quelled  by  Crassus  two 
years  later. 

Above  Capua  rises  Mons  Tifata,  once  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Jupiter, 
now  crowned  by  a  chapel  of  S.  Nicola.  At  its  base,  about  hi  fa  M.  from 
S.  Maria,  stands  the  old  church  of  S.  Angelo  in  Formis,  with  frescoes  of 
the  11th  cent,  (valuable  in  the  history  of  art),  occupying  the  site  of  a  cel- 
ebrated temple  of  Diana,  around  which  a  village  had  established  itself. 

The  high-road  from  Capua  to  Maddaloni  (p.  10)  via  S.  Maria 
and  Caserta  presents  a  scene  of  brisk  traffic.  The  road  from  S.  Maria 
to  Caserta  (a  drive  of  8/4  hr.)  passes  two  handsome  Roman  tombs. 

134  M.  Caserta.  —  Hotels.  Vittoeia,  with  garden;  Villa 
Reale,  well  spoken  of;  both  in  the  Via  Vittoria;  Villa  di  Fieenze,  near 
the  palace,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  272,  pens.  8  fr. ;  all  with  trattorie.  —  In  the  round 
piazza  with  its  colonnades,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town  from  the  palace, 
is  a  favourite  Cafe". 

Carriage  with  one  horse,  per  drive  within  the  town  or  to  the 
station.  35  c,  with  two  horses  60  c. ;  drive  in  the  royal  gardens  ('le  Reali 
Delizie'),  per  hr.  with  one  horse,  1  fr.  30  c,  with  two  horses,  2'/z  fr., 
each  additional  1/2  hr.  50  or  85  c. ;  to  S.  Maria  di  Capua  Vetere  1  fr.  40  or 
2  fr.  30,  to  Capua  2  fr.  25  or  3  fr.  «0  c. 

For  a  Visit  to  the  Palace  (interior  only  12-4;  the  garden  till  sunset)  a 
permesso  from  the  royal  intendant  at  the  Palazzo  Reale  at  Naples  (p.  35) 
is  required,  but  it  may  if  necessary  be  obtained  through  one  of  the  hotel- 
keepers  at  Caserta.   Fee  1  fr.;  for  the  chapel  25  c. 

Caserta,  a  clean  and  well-built  town  with  19,000  inhab.  ('com- 
mune' 30,600)  and  a  large  garrison,  may  be  called  the  Versailles 
of  Naples.  It  possesses  several  palaces  and  barracks,  and  is  the 
residence  of  the  prefect  of  the  province  of  Caserta.  It  was  founded 
in  the  8th  cent,  by  the  Lombards  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  but  the 
modern  town  stands  on  lower  ground. 

The  *Royal  Palace  of  Caserta,  opposite  the  station,  was  erected 
in  1752,  by  Vanvitelli,  by  order  of  King  Charles  III.,  in  the  richest 
Italian  palatial  style.  It  forms  a  rectangle.  The  S.  side  is  830  ft. 
long  and  134  ft.  high,  with  thirty-seven  windows  in  each  story. 
The  courts  of  the  palace  are  traversed  by  a  colonnade,  from  the 
centre  of  which  ascends  the  handsome  marble  staircase,  with  116 
steps.  The  marble  statue  of  Vanvitelli ,  by  Buccini ,  was  erected 
in  1879.    The  palace  is  at  present  unoccupied. 

The  Chapel,  lavishly  decorated  with  marble,  imitated  lapis  lazuli, 
and  gold,  contains  a  'Presentation  in  the  Temple'  by  Mengs,  five  paintings 
by  Conca,  and  an  altarpiece  by  Bonito.  —  The  Theatee  is  adorned  with 
twelve  Corinthian  columns  of  African  marble  from  the  temple  of  Sera- 
pis  at  Pozzuoli,  and  contains  forty  boxes,  besides  that  appropriated  to 
the  royal  family. 

The  *Oarden,  with  its  lofty  pruned  hedges,  contains  beautiful 
fountains  and  cascades,  adorned  with  statues.  The  grand  terrace 
above  the  cascade  (2  M.  from  the  palace)  affords  beautiful  points 
of  view.     The  Botanical  Oarden  is  interesting  as  proving  that  the 


10      Route  1.  MADDALONI. 

trees  of  the  colder  north  can  be  grown  here  with  success.  The  Ca- 
sino Eeale  di  S.  Leucio,  in  the  park,  about  2  M.  to  the  N.,  near  some 
large  silk-factories,  commands  another  fine  prospect. 

About  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  palace,  on  an  elevated  site,  is 
Caserta  Vecchia,  with  several  interesting  deserted  palaces  and  the 
12th  cent,  church  of  S.  Michele. 

From  Caserta  and  from  Capua  there  are  roads  to  Caiazzo  (about  9  M.) 
and  on  to  Piedimonte  d'Alife  (rustic  Inn) ,  prettily  situated  about  15  M. 
from  Caiazzo,  with  flourishing  mills,  founded  by  Swiss  merchants,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Matese,  the  highest  summit  of  which  (Monte  Miletto,  6725  ft.)  may 
be  ascended  from  Piedimonte  in  5-6  hrs.  On  the  top  there  is  a  lake  sur- 
rounded by  woods.    View  as  far  as  the  Adriatic  and  Tyrrhenian  Sea. 

Caserta  is  the  junction  of  the  Naples  and  Foggia  railway 
(R.  17)  ,  which  runs  above  our  line  as  far  as  Maddaloni  ,  the  next 
station,  and  for  the  branch -line  to  Castellammare  (30'^  M. ,  in 
2  hrs. ;  fares  5  fr.  55,  3  fr.  90,  or  2  fr.  50  c>  The  latter  follows  the 
main  line  as  far  as  Cancello,  where  it  diverges  to  the  left  and  runs 
round  the  E.  and  S.  sides  of  Mt.  Vesuvius,  past  the  stations  of 
Marlgliano ,  Ottaiano,  S.  Giuseppe,  Terzigno,  and  Boscoreale,  to 
Torre  Annunziata ,  the  junction  of  the  railway  from  Naples  to 
Castellammare  and  Gragnano  (pp.  Ill,  143). 

138  M.  Maddaloni  (20,000  inhab.),  situated  to  the  left,  with 
an  extensive  deserted  palace  of  the  Caraffa  family,  is  commanded 
by  a  ruined  castle.  On  the  Foggia  line  are  the  (2!/2  M.)  Ponti  della 
Valle  (see  p.  204),  a  celebrated  aqueduct  constructed  by  Vanvi- 
telli  to  water  the  gardens  of  Caserta,  and  usually  visited  hence. 

141i/2  M.  Cancello,  whence  branch-lines  diverge  to  Castellam- 
mare (see  above)  and  to  Avellino  (R.  11). 

About  l'/ijM.  to  theS.W.  of  Cancello,  among  the  woods  (Bosco  d'Acovia), 
are  the  insignificant  ruins  of  the  ancient  Oscan  Suessula.  The  rich  se- 
pulchral remains  found  here ,  chiefly  vases  and  bronze  ornaments ,  are 
preserved  in  the  neighbouring  Villa  Spinelli. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  railway  (R.  17)  the  high-road  from  Cancello 
to  Benevento  (25  M.)  has  been  used  for  the  local  traffic  only.  It  leads 
by  S.  Felice  and  Arienzo,  and  then  passes  through  a  narrow  defile,  con- 
sidered by  many  to  be  identical  with  the  Furculae  Caudinae  which  proved 
so  disastrous  to  the  fortunes  of  Rome,  whence  it  ascends  to  the  village  of 
Arpaia.  It  next  passes  the  small  town  of  Montesarchio  (the  ancient  Gau- 
dium  according  to  some),  with  its  castle,  once  the  residence  of  the  d'Avalos 
family,  and  recently  used  as  a  state  prison,  in  which,  among  others,  the  well- 
known  Poerio  (d.  1867)  was  confined  (eomp.  p.  40). 

To  the  left  we  observe  Monte  Sornma  (p.  113),  which  conceals 
the  cone  of  Vesuvius.  146  M.  Acerra  (14,500  inhab.)  was  the 
ancient  Acerrae,  to  which  the  Roman  citizenship  was  accorded  as 
early  as  B.  C.  332.  The  train  crosses  the  trenches  of  the  Begi 
Lagni,  which  drain  the  marshes  of  Pantano  dell'  Acerra,  the  an- 
cient Clanius,  now  VAgno,  and  form  the  boundary  between  the 
provinces  of  Caserta  and  Naples.  148  M.  Casalnuovo.  Vesuvius 
becomes  visible  on  the  left. 

1541/2  M.  Naples.    Arrival,  see  p.  19. 


11 

2.  From  Rome  to  Naples  via,  Terracina  and  Gaeta. 

166  M.  From  Rome  to  Terracina,  75x/2  M.,  Railway  in  43/4  hrs.  (no  fast 
trains);  fares  13  fr.  80,  9  fr.  70,  6  fr.  25  c.  —  From  Terracina  to  Formia, 
21  '/2  M.,  Diligence  twice  daily  (at  7  a.m.  and  1.30  p.m.;  from  Formia  at 
4.30  and  7  p.m.)  in  4>/2  hrs.,  fare  4  fr.  —  Gaeta  is  now  visited  from  Formia 
by  railway,  5>/2  M.  in  20  min.  (fares  1  fr.,  70  c,  50  c,  there  and  back 
1  fr.  60,  1  fr.  15,  75  c).  —  From  Formia  via  Sparanise  to  Naples,  69  M., 
Railway  in  434-5'/4  hrs.;    fares  12  fr.  60,  8  fr.  80,  5  fr.  70c. 

From  Rome  to  (9  M.)  Ciarnpino  see  p.  1.  The  lino  diverges  from 
the  Naples  line  towards  the  S.  —  10 72  M-  Frattocchie.  On  the  left 
rise  the  Alban  hills.  —  18  M.  Cecchina,  whence  a  steam-tramway 
runs  to  Albano.  To -the  right  we  obtain  a  glimpse  of  Monte  Circello 
(1030  ft.  ;  p.  14),  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea;  nearer  are  the  Volscian 
Mts.  —  20*/2  M.  Civita  Lavinia,  the  ancient  Lanuvium. 

26  M.  Velletri  {Locanda  Campana,  Qallo,  both  good,  with  trat- 
torie),  the  ancient  Velitrae,  a  town  of  the  Volscians,  which  became 
subject  to  Rome  in  B.C.  338,  is  famous  for  its  wine  (pop.  8000).  It 
stands  picturesquely  on  a  spur  of  the  Monte  Arternisio,  6  min.  from 
the  station.  Velletri  is  the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of  Ostia.  The 
loggia  of  the  Palazzo Lancelotti  commands  a  beautiful  and  extensive 
view.  In  the  new  cemetery,  where  Garibaldi  defeated  the  Neapolitan 
troops  on  19th  May,  1849,  a  column  of  victory  was  erected  in  1883. 

From  Velletri  to  Segni,  15  M.,  railway  in  3/4  hr.,  via  (5  M.)  Ontanese 
and  (lu  M.)  Artena. 

The  Terracina  line  intersects  a  desolate  plain,  devoid  of  interest. 
On  the  right  lies  the  Logo  di  Oiulianello,  an  ancient  crater.  33  M. 
Oiulianello.    Farther  on,  the  line  skirts  the  slopes  of  Monte  Calvello. 

36  y2  M.  Cori.  The  railway- station  lies  about  2'^  M.  below  the 
old  town,  the  ancient  Cora,  which  claimed  to  have  been  founded  by 
the  Trojan  Dardanus  or  by  Coras  and  still  prospered  during  the  Roman 
empire.  Of  its  former  importance,  the  remains  of  the  ancient  walls, 
constructed  of  huge  polygonal  blocks,  the  portico  of  the  so-called 
Temple  of  Hercules  and  the  remains  of  a  Temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux 
still  bear  testimony.   For  farther  details,  see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy. 

38  M.  Cisterna  (Inn,  poor),  a  small  town  with  a  castle  of  the 
Gaetani,  situated  3  M.  from  the  station  on  the  last  hill  before  the 
Pontine  marshes  are  reached,  was  called  Cisterna  Neronis  in  the 
middle  ages,  and  is  believed  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient  Tres 
Tabernae  where  the  apostle  Paul  on  his  journey  met  the  friends  coming 
from  Rome  to  welcome  him  (Acts,  2V).  — 43l/2  M.  Ninfa,  a  deserted 
mediaeval  town,  the  ivyclad  ruins  of  which  date  mainly  from  the 
12th  and  13th  cent.  The  malaria  which  reigns  here  in  summer  has 
been  the  cause  of  its  abandonment. 

45!/2  M.  Sermoneta-Norma.  To  the  left,  on  an  eminence,  stands 
Sermoneta,  with  an  ancient  castle  of  the  Gaetani  family.  Higher  up 
lies  the  small  mountain- village  of  Norma,  below  the  ancient  Norba, 
which  was  destroyed  by  the  troops  of  Sulla  during  the  civil  wars, 
and  is  still  surrounded  by  the  well-preserved  remains  of  a  wall  in  the 
polygonal  style,  IY2ML  in  circumference,  with  several  gates  and  towers. 


12      Route  2.  PONTINE  MARSHES.  From  Borne 

Farther  on,  the  line  skirts  the  Pontine  Marshes  (Paludi  Pontini), 
which  vary  in  breadth  between  the  mountains  and  the  sea  from  6  to 
11  M.,  and  from  Nettuno  to  Terracina  are  31  M.  in  length.  A 
considerable  part  of  them  is  now  cultivated ;  particularly,  however, 
they  afford  extensive  pastures  ,  the  most  marshy  parts  being  the 
resort  of  the  buffaloes.  Towards  the  sea  the  district  is  clothed  with 
forest  (macchia).    The  malaria  in  summer  is  a  dreadful  scourge. 

According  to  Pliny  (Hist.  Nat.  iii.  5) ,  these  marshes  were  anciently 
a  fertile  and  well-cultivated  plain,  occupied  by  twenty-four  villages,  but 
towards  the  close  of  the  republic  gradually  fell  into  their  present  con- 
dition owing  to  the  decline  of  agriculture.  A  want  of  fall  in  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil  is  the  cause  of  the  evil.  The  streams  and  canals  are 
totally  inadequate  to  carry  off  the  excess  of  water  which  descends  from 
the  mountains  during  the  rainy  season,  and  its  escape  is  further  impeded 
by  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  aquatic  plants.  Attempts  to  drain  the 
marshes  were  successively  made  by  the  censor  Appius  Claudius  in  B.  C. 
312  (so  says  tradition),  by  the  consul  Cornelius  Cethegus  130  years  later, 
by  Csesar,  Augustus,  Nerva,  Trajan,  and  finally  by  Theodoric,  King  of  the 
Goths,  all  of  which  were  of  temporary  benefit  only.  Similar  operations  were 
undertaken  by  the  popes  Boniface  VIII.,  Martin  V.,  Sixtus  V.,  and  Pius  VI. 
To  the  last  is  due  the  present  admirably  constructed  road  across  the 
marshes,  the  cost  of  which  amounted  to  1,622,000  scudi  (350,000J.  sterling). 
At  present  the  drainage  is  carried  out  in  a  most  practical  and  comprehen- 
sive manner  by  the  proprietors  themselves,  under  the  direction  of  the 
'Ufflcio  della  bonificazione  delle  paludi  Pontini'  at  Terracina. 

52  M.  Sezza  (Locanda  Nazionale,  in  the  Piazza,  unpretending) 
is  the  ancient  Setia  of  the  Volscians,  a  Roman  colony  after  382  B.C., 
and  frequently  mentioned  in  the  Italian  wars  up  to  the  time  of  Sulla. 
Under  the  empire  its  name  was  remembered  only  on  account  of  its 
wine,  which  Augustus  preferred  even  to  Falernian.  Considerable 
remains  of  its  ancient  walls  have  been  preserved  ;  they  are  built  of 
massive  polygonal  blocks,  but  with  more  attention  to  horizontal  courses 
than  was  the  case  at  Cori.  The  rough  rusticated  work  here  is  an 
unusual  feature  in  ancient  town-walls,  which  in  most  other  examples 
are  carefully  smoothed.  A  massive  substructure  in  the  same  style, 
below  (to  the  right)  the  entrance  of  the  town,  has  been  arbitrarily 
named  Tempio  di  Saturno. 

To  the  right,  the  high-road  leads  straight  on  through  the  Pontine 
plain,  following  the  ancient  Via  Appia,  the  famous  road  constructed 
during  the  Samnite  war,  B.C.  312,  by  Appius  Claudius,  the  censor 
(see  above).  On  the  left  rise  the  slopes  of  Monte  Trevi,  crowned  by 
the  ruins  of  a  town  destroyed  in  the  16th  century. 

61  M.  Piperno  (Locanda  della  Rosetta,  tolerable)  was  founded 
early  in  the  middle  ages  by  refugees  from  the  ancient  Volscian  town 
of  Privernum.  The  Cathedral,  in  the  picturesque  piazza,  was  built 
in  1823  and  modernised  in  the  interior  in  1782. 

The  railway  crosses  the  Amaseno  and  affords  a  picturesque  view 
of  its  valley  which  is  enclosed  by  lofty  mountains,  studded  with  ruined 
ca-tles  and  villages :  Rocca  Gorga,  Maenza,  Rocca  Seccn,  Prossedi, 
etc.  —  04  M.  Sonnino,  once  famous  for  the  picturesquoness  of  the 
costume  of  the  women,  and  for  the  audacity  of  the  brigands. 


to  Naples.  TERRAOINA.  2.  Route.      13 

About  1  M.  from  the  station  of  Sonnina  is  the  Cistercian  convent  of 
*Fossanuova,  where  St.  Thomas  Aquinas  died  in  1274  while  on  his  way 
to  the  Council  of  Lyons.  The  convent-church,  built  about  1225 ,  with 
rectangular  choir  and  a  rectangular  tower  over  the  crossing,  is  one  of  the 
earliest  examples  of  Italian  Gothic.  It  has  recently  been  restored.  The 
cloisters,  chapter-house,  and  refectory  are  also  interesting.  One  of  the 
rooms  contains  a  relief  of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  by  Bernini. 

The  line  turns  to  the  S.  —  69  M.  Frasso.  On  the  slope  of  Monte 
Leano  once  lay  the  sacred  grove  and  fountain  of  Feronia  mentioned 
by  Horace  (Sat.  I,  5,  23).  We  now  join  the  Via  Appia.  To  the  right, 
11-12  M.  distant,  the  Promontorio  Circeo  (p.  14)  is  visible  on  the 
whole  journey,  from.Velletri  onwards. 

75^2  M.  Terracina.  • —  Hotels:  Grand  Hotel  Royal,  at  the  S.  en- 
trance to  the  town,  with  a  view  of  the  sea  at  the  back,  E.  &  L.  V/i  fr., 
well  spoken  of;  Locanda  Nazionale,  in  the  Piazza,  less  expensive. 

Terracina,  situated  conspicuously  on  a  rocky  eminence  (Hor. 
Sat.  i.  5,  26),  the  Anxur  of  the  ancient  Volscians,  and  the  Tarra- 
cina  of  the  Romans ,  was  formerly  on  the  confines  of  the  papal 
dominions,  and  still  constitutes  the  natural  frontier  town  between 
Central  and  Southern  Italy.  Pop.  7500.  It  is  an  ancient  episcopal 
residence,  and  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in  Italy.  The 
high-road  intersects  the  extensive  but  thinly  peopled  quarter  of 
the  town  which  was  founded  by  Pius  VI. ,  while  the  old  town  is 
built  on  the  slope  of  the  hill.  Above  the  latter  extend  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  city,  crowned  by  the  remains  of  the  palace  of  Theodoric 
the  Ostrogoth. 

The  *Cattedb,ale  S.  Cesaueo,  in  a  large  square,  the  ancient 
Forum,  the  pavement  of  which  is  well  preserved,  occupies  the  site 
of  a  Temple  of  Roma  and  of  Augustus,  dedicated  to  that  emperor 
by  A.  ^Emilius,  who  also  caused  the  forum  to  be  paved.  In  the 
travertine  slabs  the  inscription  'A.  jEmilius  F.  F.'  is  distinctly 
legible  in  large  letters.  The  vestibule  of  the  cathedral  rests  on 
ten  ancient  columns,  with  recumbent  lions  at  their  bases.  On  the 
right  is  a  large  granite  basin,  which,  according  to  the  inscription, 
was  used  in  torturing  the  early  Christians.  The  beautiful  fluted 
columns  of  the  canopy  in  the  interior  belonged  to  the  ancient 
temple.  The  pulpit,  with  its  ancient  mosaics,  rests  on  columns 
with  lions  at  their  bases.  — The  clock  tower  (ascended  by  91  steps) 
commands  an  extensive  prospect. 

The  summit  of  the  promontory  may  be  attained  in  3/4hr.,  di- 
Tectly  from  the  new  town  but  more  conveniently  from  the  old  town, 
by  ascending  to  the  right,  under  the  archway  adjoining  the  cathe- 
dral. The  latter  route  is  partly  by  an  ancient  road  passing  remains 
of  tombs  and  ancient  walls,  and  then  to  the  right  by  a  gap  in  the 
wall  encircling  the  olive-plantations,  and  through  the  latter  along 
the  dividing  wall.  The  whole  excursion  requires  about  3  hrs.; 
guide  unnecessary.  The  so-called  *Palace  of  Theodobjc,  King  of 
the  Ostrogoths,  erected  about  500  A.D.  and  afterwards  converted 
into  a  castle,   occupies  the  summit.     A  corridor  of  twelve  arches 


14      Route  2.  TERRACINA.  From  Rome 

opens  towards  the  sea  on  the  S.  side.  The  purposes  of  the  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  structure  cannot  now  be  ascertained.  Admirable 
*View.  Towards  the  W.  the  prospect  embraces  the  plain  as  far  as 
the  Alban  Mts.,  then  the  Monte  Circello ;  towards  the  S.  are  the 
Pontine  or  Ponza  Islands,  the  N.W.  group  of  which  comprises  Ponza 
(Pontise,  once  a  Roman  colony),  Palmarola  (Palmaria),  and  Zan- 
none,  all  of  volcanic  origin,  and  the  S.  group  Ventotene  and  S.  Ste- 
fano;  between  the  groups  lies  the  small  island  of  La  Botte.  The  is- 
lands are  still  used,  as  in  ancient  times,  as  a  place  of  detention  for 
convicts.  (Steamer  from  Naples,  see  p.  104.)  Ventotene  is  the  Pan- 
dateria  of  melancholy  celebrity,  to  which  Augustus  banished  his 
abandoned  daughter  Julia,  and  Tiberius  relegated  Agrippina,  the 
daughter  of  Julia,  and  where  Nero  is  said  to  have  caused  his  di- 
vorced wife  Octavia  to  be  put  to  death.  Towards  the  E.  the  plain 
of  Fondi  is  visible;  the  village  on  the  sea  is  Sperlonga  (p.  16); 
farther  off  is  the  promontory  of  Gaeta  with  the  Torre  d'Orlando 
(p.  18),  and  finally  the  island  of  Ischia. 

The  Harbour  of  Terracina,  still  recognisable  by  the  break- 
water, was  of  great  importance  during  the  Roman  period,  but  is 
now  entirely  filled  with  sand.  A  new  Molo  affords  indifferent 
shelter  to  coasting-vessels.  The  galley-convicts  at  the  bagno  here 
are  partly  employed  in  the  harbour  works,  and  partly  in  the  quarries. 

At  the  S.  egress  of  the  town  is  the  Taglio  di  Pisco  Montano, 
an  interesting  piece  of  Roman  engineering.  Beyond  the  Hotel  Ro- 
yal the  Monte  Angelo  with  its  picturesque  and  massy  rocks  ap- 
proaches close  to  the  sea,  in  consequence  of  which  Appius  origin- 
ally conducted  his  road  over  the  hill.  At  a  later  period  the  rocks 
were  removed  for  the  construction  of  a  new  and  more  spacious 
road.  On  the  perpendicular  wall  thus  produced  the  depth  is  in- 
dicated at  intervals  of  10  Roman  feet,  beginning  from  the  top; 
the  lowest  mark,  a  few  feet  above  the  present  road,  is  OXX.  On 
the  top,  on  a  detached  rocky  protuberance,  is  a  hermitage,  now 
abandoned. 

A  good  path  leads  along  the  shore  in  3-4  hrs.  to  the  (11  M.)  the  Pro- 
montorio  Circeo,  or  Circello  (1030  ft.),  the  Circeii  of  the  ancients,  the  tra- 
ditional site  of  the  palace  and  grove  of  the  enchantress  Circe,  daughter  of 
the  sun,  described  by  Homer.  It  is  an  isolated  limestone  rock,  partly  over- 
grown with  wood.  Accommodation  of  a  rustic  character  may  he  obtained  at 
S.  Felice.  The  hill  is  strewn  with  the  ruins  of  several  mediseval  towers, 
and  also  with  a  few  fragments  of  the  ancient  town  of  Circeii,  which 
became  a  Roman  colony  in  B.  C.  393  and  still  existed  in  Cicero's  time. 
Thus,  about  halfway  up  the  hill,  under  a  group  of  lofty  trees,  is  a  low 
parapet  of  Roman  workmanship  enclosing  a  well  called  the  Fontana 
di  Mezzo  Monte.  At  another  point  is  the  Fonte  della  Bagnaia ,  also  with 
fragments  of  Roman  masonry,  and  on  the  summit  are  the  remains  of  a 
Temple  of  Circe.  The  "View  from  the  top  is  magnificent:  to  the  S.E. 
Ischia,  Capri,  and  Mt.  Vesuvius  are  distinctly  visible ;  to  the  N.  the  dome 
of  St.  Peter's  can  be  distinguished;  to  the  E.  and  N.E.  we  see  the  moun- 
tains as  far  as  Velletri;  to  the  W.  and  S.W.  is  the  sea,  with  the  Pontine 
Islands  (see  above).  The  rock  is  honeycombed  with  grottoes,  some  of  which 
are  of  great  extent.  Cicero  and  Atticus,  Tiberius  and  Domitian  frequently 
r  esorted  to  this  spot.  —  Remains  of  Roman  palaces  and  aqueducts  have  also 


to  Naples.  FONDI.  2.  Route.      15 

been  found  at  Lago  di  Paola,  a  small  lake  at  the  N.  base  of  the  promon- 
tory, where  large  oyster-beds  were  maintained  by  the  Romans. 

The  High  Road  beyond  Terracina  still  follows  the  direction  of 
the  Via  Appia,  and  is  flanked  by  remains  of  ancient  tombs.  The 
mountains  which  we  skirt  approach  so  near  the  sea  as  occasionally 
to  leave  barely  space  for  the  road.  This  pass  was  the  ancient 
Lautulae.  Here,  in  B.  C.  315,  the  Romans  fought  a  battle  with 
the  Samnites,  and  in  the  2nd  Punic  War  Fabius  Maximus  kept 
Hannibal  in  check  at  this  point.  On  a  hill  about  y2  M.  to  the 
left  is  situated  the  monastery  of  Retiro,  on  the  site  of  the  villa 
in  which  the  empeior  Galba  was  born.  Then  to  the  right  is  the 
Lake  of  Fondi,  the  Laeus  Fundanus  or  Amyclanus  of  the  ancients, 
named  after  the  town  of  Amyclae  which  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
here  by  fugitive  Laconians.  The  village  towards  the  E.  on  the  slope 
facing  the  sea  is  Sperlonga  (see  p.  16). 

The  papal  frontier  was  formerly  at  Torre  dell'  Epitafla.  We 
next  reach  the  gateway  of  the  tower  de'  Confini,  or  La  Portella, 
4  M.  from  Terracina.  On  a  height  to  the  left  is  the  village  of  Monti- 
celli;  by  the  roadside  are  fragments  of  tombs.  We  now  enter  the 
extremely  fertile  Terra  di  Lavoro  (p.  7). 

The  next  place  (11  M.  from  Terracina)  is  Fondi  (5000  inhab.), 
the  ancient  Fundi ,  where  Horace  derides  the  pride  of  a  civic  of- 
ficial 'with  broad  purple  border  and  censer'  (Hor.  Sat.  i.  5 ,  34). 
Change  of  horses,  and  halt  of  1/i  hr.  (tolerable  inn).  The  Chateau, 
part  of  which  adjoins  the  cathedral,  is  miserably  dilapidated.  Some  of 
the  window-frames  and  decorations  in  the  most  tasteful  Renais- 
sance style  testify  to  its  ancient  splendour.  In  the  16th  cent,  it 
belonged  to  the  Colonnas,  and  in  1534  it  was  occupied  by  the  beau- 
tiful Countess  Giulia  Gonzaga.  One  night  the  countess  narrowly 
escaped  being  captured  by  the  daring  pirate  Haireddin  Barbarossa, 
who  purposed  conveying  her  to  the  Sultan  Soliman  II.  Exasperated 
by  his  failure ,  he  wreaked  his  revenge  on  the  town ,  as  an  in- 
scription in  the  church  records.  The  town  was  again  destroyed 
by  the  Turks  in  1594.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  church  of  8.  Maria 
in  the  Gothic  style,  with  an  ancient  facade  and  portal,  disfigured 
in  the  interior  by  whitewash.  It  contains  an  ancient  pulpit  adorned 
with  mosaic,  and  on  the  right  a  Madonna  by  Silvestro  de'  Buoni. 
A  chapel  is  shown  in  the  Dominican  monastery  in  which  Thomas 
Aquinas  once  taught.  Considerable  remains  of  the  ancient  town- 
walls  are  preserved.  The  principal  street  coincides  with  the  an- 
cient Via  Appia.  In  other  respects  the  town  is  a  sombre-looking 
place,  and  like  Itri  (see  below)  was  for  centuries  a  haunt  of  brigands. 

Beyond  Fondi  the  road  traverses  the  plain  for  3  M.,  after 
which  it  ascends  Monte  S.  Andrea  through  mountain -ravines, 
where  additional  horses  are  necessary.  It  then  descends  to  the 
poor  town  of  Itri,  with  a  ruined  castle,  where  remains  of  sub- 
structures of  the  ancient  Via  Appia,   built  into  the  houses,   are 


16      Route  2.  FORMIA.  From  Rome 

visible  from  the  road.  Itri  was  once  notorious  for  the  robberies 
committed  there.  It  was  here  that  the  robber-chief  Marco  Sciarra 
promised  a  safe  conduct  and  protection  to  the  poet  Tasso ;  and 
Fra  Diavolo  (whose  real  name  was  Michele  Pezza)  was  also  a  native 
of  Itri.  He  was  at  last  captured  by  the  French  near  Salerno  and 
executed.  Anecdotes  are  still  related  of  this  daring  brigand,  and 
Washington  Irving's  sketch  'The  Inn  of  Terracina',  the  foundation 
of  Auber's  opera,  has  greatly  contributed  to  maintain  their  interest. 

A  mountainous  path  leads  from  Itri,  to  the  right,  in  2l/i  hrs.  to  the 
fishing-village  of  Sperlonga,  situated  on  a  sandy  promontory,  and  deriving 
its  name  from  the  grottoes  (speluncae)  in  the  neighbouring  rocks.  In  one 
of  these,  as  Tacitus  informs  us  (Ann.  iv.  59),  Sejauus  saved  the  life  of  Ti- 
berius, which  was  imperilled  by  a  falling  rock.  On  the  way  to  the  grotto 
we  observe  Roman  ruins,  and  the  grotto  itself  contains  benches  and  stucco 
ornaments.  The  excursion  may  best  be  made  by  boat  from  Gaeta,  from 
which  Sperlonga  is  about  9l/2  M.  distant. 

From  Itri  the  road  descends  for  some  distance  on  galleries, 
and  finally  between  woods  and  vineyards  towards  the  coast,  re- 
vealing an  exquisite  view  of  the  bay  of  Gaeta,  with  its  glittering 
villas  and  other  edifices;  in  the  distance  are  Ischia  and  Procida; 
still  further  off  rise  the  Monte  S.  Angelo  (p.  145)  and  Vesuvius. 

Farther  on,  we  perceive  to  the  right,  in  the  middle  of  a 
vineyard,  on  a  square  base,  a  massive  round  tower,  believed 
to  be  Cicero's  Tomb.  It  was  in  this  neighbourhood,  not  far 
from  his  Formianum,  that  the  proscribed  orator,  who  sought 
to  elude  the  pursuit  of  the  triumvirs  Octavian,  Antony,  and 
Lepidus,  was  murdered  by  the  tribunes  Herennius  and  Popilius 
Lienas ,  7th  Dec,  B.C.  43,  in  the  64th  year  of  his  age.  On  a 
height  above  the  road  may  be  traced  the  foundations  of  a  temple 
of  Apollo,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Cicero.  Numerous  re- 
lics of  ancient  buildings  are  still  extant  on  the  whole  bay,  which, 
like  the  bay  of  Naples,  was  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Roman  nobles, 
and  was  covered  with  the  most  sumptuous  villas.  Tradition  has 
assigned  several  of  these  to  Cicero,  but  without  the  slightest 
historical  foundation.     The   road    now  descends  to  Formia. 

Formia  (* Hotel  del  Fiori ,  on  the  coast,  R.  ll/2  fr.,  pre- 
ferable to  the  inns  at  Gaeta),  the  ancient  Formiae,  a  town  with 
10,000  inhab.,  was  called  Mola  di  Oaeta  under  the  former  regime. 
The  beauty  of  its  situation  constitutes  its  sole  attraction.  The 
mountain-range  on  the  N.  side  of  the  bay  rises  abruptly  from  the 
sea,  the  lower  slopes  being  clothed  with  gardens  of  lemons,  oranges, 
and  pomegranates,   and  with  vineyards  and  olive-plantations. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  points  is  the  so-called  Villa  of 
Cicero ,  or  Villa  Caposele ,  above  the  town ,  formerly  a  favourite 
residence  of  the  kings  of  Naples.  It  now  belongs  to  .Sign.  Gaetano 
Rubino  (permission  to  visit  it  obtained  by  leaving  a  card  at  his  palazzo 
opposite  the  prefecture;  boy  to  act  as  guide  ^2  fr.)- 

At  the  entrance  are  ancient  inscriptions  and  statues.  The  lower 
part  of  the  garden  contains  considerable  remains  of  an  ancient  villa, 
supposed   to  have  belonged  to  Cicero,  but  evidently  from  its  construction 


'to  Naples.  GAETA.  2.  Route.      17 

dating  from  the  1st  or  2nd  cent,  of  the  Roman  imperial  era.  Among  the 
vaulted  halls  is  one  with  eight  columns  and  a  semicircular  apse,  now 
converted  into  offices.  During  the  siege  of  Gaeta,  General  Cialdini  es- 
tablished his  headquarters  here.  The  upper  terrace  commands  an  un- 
interrupted survey  of  the  charming  hay,  Gaeta,  Ischia,  the  promontories 
of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  and  the  mountain  range  to  the  S.  of  the  Liris,  which 
separates  the  latter  from  the  region  of  the  Volturno. 


Excursion  to  Gabta.  The  railway  (S1^  M.,  in  20  min. ;  see 
p.  11)  skirts  the  coast,  past  numerous  remains  of  villas,  which  the 
Romans  were  in  the  habit  of  building  out  into  the  sea  as  far  as  pos- 
sible. Among  them  a  spot  is  pointed  out  as  the  scene  of  the  assas- 
sination of  Cicero  (see  p.  16). 

Gaeta  (Albergo  Villa  Oaeta,  well  spoken  of;  Italia;  Caff'e 
Nazionale),  the  ancient  Portus  Caieta,  with  19,000  inhab.,  is  an 
important  fortress,  but  insignificant  as  a  commercial  town.  The 
promontory  of  Gaeta  resembles  the  cape  of  Misenum  in  formation, 
presenting  from  a  distance  the  appearance  of  a  gigantic  tumulus. 
Tradition  has  pointed  it  out  as  the  tomb  of  Caieta,  the  nurse  of 
./Eneas ,  and  Munatius  Plancus ,  a  contemporary  of  Augustus  and 
founder  of  Lyons  (d.  after  22  B.  C),  accordingly  erected  a  con- 
spicuous and  imposing  monument  on  its  summit.  From  this  eminence 
projects  a  lower  rock  which  bears  the  citadel  with  the  Torre  Angio- 
vina  and  the  town. 

The  strength  of  the  place  was  first  put  to  the  test  during  the  bar- 
barian immigrations.  Gaeta  successfully  resisted  the  attacks  of  the  Germanic 
invaders,  and  with  Amain  and  Naples  constituted  one  of  the  last  strong- 
holds of  ancient  culture.  It  afterwards  became  a  free  city,  presided  over 
by  a  doge,  and  carried  on  a  considerable  trade  with  the  Levant.  It  bade 
defiance  to  the  assaults  of  the  Lombards  and  Saracens,  and  preserved  its 
freedom  down  to  the  12th  cent.,  when  with  the  rest  of  Southern  Italy  it 
was  compelled  to  succumb  to  the  Normans.  The  fortress  was  extended  and 
strengthened  at  various  periods  by  the  Arragonese,  by  Charles  V.,  and 
especially  by  the  last  Bourbon  monarchs.  In  1501  it  surrendered  to  the 
French,  in  1504  to  the  Spaniards  under  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova,  in  1734  to 
the'  Spaniards  again,  and  in  1798  to  the  French.  In  1806  it  was  gallantly 
defended  by  the  Prince  of  Hessen-Philippsthal,  who,  aided  by  the  Eng- 
lish fleet,  held  out  for  nearly  six  months  against  a  powerful  French  army 
under' Massena.  Pope  Pius  IX.  when  banished  in  Nov.,  1848,  sought  an 
asylum  here,  and  remained  at  Gaeta  until  his  return  to  Rome  in  April,  1850. 
In  Nov.,  1860,  Francis  II.  of  Naples,  the  last  of  the  Bourbon  kings,  sought 
refuge  here,  and  his  queen  Mary,  Duchess  of  Bavaria,  took  a  prominent 
part  in  the  defence  of  the  fortress,  but  the  town  was  at  length  compelled 
to  capitulate  by  the  Italian  fleet  on  23rd  Feb.,  1861.  The  king  was  conveyed 
to  Rome  by  a  French  man-of-war. 

The  Cattedrale  di  8.  Erasmo  has  a  remarkable  campanile ;  at 
the  entrance  are  four  ancient  columns  and  relics  of  old  sculptures. 
The  modernised  interior  and  the  crypt  are  uninteresting.  At  the 
back  of  the  high-altar  (covered)  is  the  banner  presented  by  Pope 
Pius  V.  to  Don  John  of  Austria,  the  hero  of  Lepanto,  representing 
the  Saviour  with  SS.  Peter  and  Paul.  —  Opposite  the  principal  portal 
of  the  church  is  a  sculptured  Gothic  column  resting  on  four  lions. 

Near  the  Piazza  is  the  modern  Gothic  church  of  S.  Francesco. 
Among  the  antiquities  of  the  town  may  be  mentioned  the  remains 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  2 


18      Route  2.  GAETA. 

of  an  amphitheatre  and  of  a  theatre,  and  also  a  column  bearing  the 
names  of  the  twelve  winds  in  Greek  and  Latin. 

The  so-called  *Torre  d'Orlando,  or  tomb  of  Munatius  Plancus 
(see  p.  17),  situated  on  the  summit  of  the  promontory,  is  now  en- 
closed by  the  new  fortifications  (permission  of  the  commandant  of 
Gaeta  necessary,  now  rarely  granted).  It  consists  of  a  huge  circular 
structure  of  travertine  blocks,  resembling  that  of  Caecilia  Metella  at 
Rome,  160  ft.  high  and  as  many  in  diameter.  At  the  top  is  a  frieze 
with  military  emblems.  Instead  of  this  tomb  the  Torre  Angiovina, 
or  Anjou  Tower,  of  the  citadel  overlooking  the  town,  may  be  visited 
(adm.  usually  granted  by  the  officer  on  duty;  ascent  too  difficult 
for  ladies).  The  view  embraces  towards  the  N.W.  the  coast  as  far  as 
Mte.  Circeo ,  to  the  W.  the  sea  with  the  Ponza  Islands  ,  to  the  E. 
and  S.  the  bay  of  Gaeta,  Ischia,  Procida,  Capri,  and  Misenum. 


The  Railway  prom  Formia  to  Sparanise  (p.  1 1)  generally  follows 
the  direction  of  the  high-road,  at  first  not  far  from  the  sea.  Farther 
on,  we  observe  to  the  left  a  long  series  of  arches  of  an  ancient  aque- 
duct. 7  M.  Minturna,  on  the  slope  to  the  left,  the  ancient  Min- 
tumae,  with  the  remains  of  a  theatre  and  an  amphitheatre.  11  M. 
S.  S.  Cosma  e  Damiano  Castelforte.  The  line  crosses  the  Qarigliano, 
the  Liris  of  the  ancients,  in  the  marches  of  which  Marius  once  sought 
to  elude  the  pursuit  of  the  hirelings  of  Sulla.  On  the  right  bank 
of  the  Garigliano,  27th  Dec.  1503,  Don  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova  fought 
the  decisive  battle  with  the  French  which  placed  Naples  in  his  power. 
Piero  de'  Medici ,  who,  having  been  banished  from  Florence,  had 
followed  the  French,  endeavoured  to  escape  to  Gaeta  in  a  boat  with 
four  field-pieces.  The  boat,  however,  sank,  and  all  its  occupants 
were  drowned.  Piero  was  buried  at  Monte  Cassino  (p.  5).  The  high- 
road crosses  the  river  by  a  suspension-bridge  constructed  in  1832. 

The  ancient  Via  Appia  farther  on  skirts  the  sea,  and  to  the  W.  of 
Monte  Massico,  whose  wines  Horace  and  Virgil  have  immortalised,  reaches 
Mondragone,  near  the  Sinuessa  of  Herace  (destroyed  by  the  Saracens  in  the 
10th  cent.),  where  to  his  great  joy  he  was  met  on  his  journey  (Sat.  i.  5,  39) 
by  his  friends  Plotius,  Varius,  and  Virgil.  Horace  then  crossed  the  Savo 
(Savone)  by  the  Pons  Campauus  and  proceeded  to  Capua.  In  the  vicinity, 
towards  the  Volturnus,  was  the  Ager  Falernus,  where  excellent  wine, 
highly  praised  by  the  ancients,  is  still  produced. 

16  M.  Cellole  Fasani.  —  20i/2  M.  Sessa  Aurunca,  the  ancient 
Suessa  Aurunca,  situated  on  a  volcanic  hill,  with  interesting  ruins 
of  a  bridge,  amphitheatre,  etc.  Other  relics  are  preserved  in  the 
ancient  cathedral  and  the  churches  of  S.  Benedetto  and  S.  Giovanni. 
In  the  principal  street  are  memorial  stones  with  inscriptions  in 
honour  of  Charles  V.,  above  which  is  an  old  crucifix  with  a  mosaic 
cross.  —  To  the  right  rises  Monte  Massico  (see  above). 

23  M.  Cascano;  25y2  M.  Carinola;  28  M.  Maiorisi.  The  line 
then  crosses  the  Savone,  not  far  from  the  picturesque  castle  of  Fran- 
colisi,  and  reaches  — 

31'/2  M.  (37  M.  from  Gaeta)  Sparanise  (see  p.  7), 


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Geograph.^nstnlt vmi  Wagner*  Debes  Leipzig- 


19 
3.    Naples. 

a.    Arrival,  Hotels,  Pensions,  Restaurants,  Cafes,  etc. 

Arrival,  (a)  Br  Railway.  The  station  (Stazione  Centrales  PI.  H,  3)  is 
situated  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town.  The  principal  hotels  all  send  Omnibuses 
(l'/2  fr.)  to  meet  the  trains.  Cabs:  with  two  horses  (nearest  the  entrance) 
1  fr.  40  c,  each  trunk  20c. ;  with  one  horse  (outside  the  railings,  farther 
distant;  seats  for  two  persons  only)  80  c,  each  trunk  20  c. ;  no  charge  is 
made  for  smaller  articles  of  luggage.  The  Facchini  who  take  the  luggage 
to  the  cab  are  paid,  according  to  tariff:  10c.  for  a  travelling-bag  or  a  hat- 
box,  20  c.  for  heavier  articles,  40  c.  for  boxes  weighing  2vi0-400  lbs.;  but 
a  few  soldi  more  are  usually  given.  As  a  long  delay  often  takes  place 
before  the  delivery  of  the  luggage,  it  is  perhaps  the  best  plan  to  take  a 
cab  direct  to  the  hotel  and  send  some  one  for  the  luggage,  though,  of 
course ,  this  incurs  a  little  extra  expense.  The  services  of  officious  by- 
standers should  be  declined.  The  formalities  of  the  municipal  douane  are 
soon  terminated,  the  declaration  of  the  traveller  that  his  luggage  con- 
tains no  comestibles  liable  to  duty  being  generally  accepted. 

(b)  By  Steamboat.  As  soon  as  permission  to  disembark  is  granted, 
a  small  boat  (1  fr.  for  each  person,  with  luggage  li/2  fr.)  conveys  the 
passengers  to  the  Dogana  near  the  Immacolatella  (PL  G,  5),  where  luggage 
is  examined.  This  done,  one  of  the  'facchini  della  dogana1  places  the 
luggage  on  the  fiacre  or  other  conveyance  (40  c.  for  each  trunk,  10  c.  for 
each  small  article).  The  offices  of  the  steamboat-companies  are  close  to 
the  harbour. 

Police  Office  (Questura),  Palazzo  S.  Giacomo  (Municipio;  P).  E,  F,  6), 
on  the  side  next  the  Via  Paolo  Emilio  Imbriani.  The  guardians  of  the 
public  peace  consist  of  Carabinieri  (black  and  red  coat  with  three-cornered 
hat),  the  Guardie  di  Pubblica  Sicurezza  (dark  uniform  with  white  buttons 
and  military  cap),  and  the  Guardie  Municipali  (with  yellow  buttons  and 
numbers  on  their  caps).  The  latter  are  specially  entrusted  with  the  super- 
vision of  vehicles.  —  Complaints  about  cabmen  should  be  made  at  the 
Ufficio  Centrale  del  Corso  Pubblico,  in  the  Municipio,  1st  floor  (p.  37). 

Hotels  (comp.  also  Introd.  p.  xxiv :  Climate  and  Health  of  Naples). 
Families  visiting  Naples  towards  the  end  of  winter  or  in  spring,  when  the 
influx  of  visitors  is  at  its  height,  had  better  secure  rooms  by  letter,  some 
time  before  their  arrival.  The  charges  at  the  larger  hotels  are  then  tole- 
rably high,  but  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  only  the  first-class  houses 
are  fitted  with  lifts,  electric  lighting,  and  other  conveniences,  besides  being 
thoroughly  heated,  a  matter  of  importance  in  cold  weather.  In  summer 
prices  are  everywhere  lower.  Most  hotels  receive  guests  en  pension  if  a  stay 
of  several  days  is  made;  while  on  the  other  hand  many  of  the  undermen- 
tioned pensions  receive  guests  even  for  a  single  day. 

In  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  and  the  adjoining  Rione  Principe  Amedeo 
(PI.  B,  C,  D,  7,  6),  in  a  healthy  situation  and  with  a  splendid  view: 
"Hotel  Bristol  (PI.  a;  D,  6),  with  good  sanitary  arrangements,  R.  3-6, 
B.  11/2,  dej.  3,  D.  5,  L.  3/4i  a.  1,  pension  11-14  fr. ;  "Parker's  Hotel  Tea- 
montano  (PI.  b;  C,  6);  adjoining,  *Hot.  Britannique  (PI.  q;  C,  6;  Mrs. 
Hacpherson),  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  3'/2,  B.  I1/2,  dej.  21/2,  D.  4,  pens.  8-12  fr.; 
these  two  patronized  by  the  English  and  Americans.  —  A  little  below 
the  Curso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  but  also  with  a  fine  view:  'Westend  Hotel 
(late  Hot.  Nubile;  PI.  c;  C,  6),  in  the  same  style  as  the  Grand  Hotel  (see 
below),   li.  from  3,  L.  3/4,   A.  1,    B.  l'/2,   dej.  31/2,  D.  5,   pens.  10-14  fr. 

Lower  Town,  near  the  sea.  In  the  Piazza  Umberto:  "Grand  Hotel 
(PI.  d;  B,  7),  in  an  open  and  healthy  situation  close  to  the  sea,  with  a 
splendid  view,  R.  from  4,  L.  »/,,  A.  1,  B.  I1/2,  dej.  31/2,  D.  5,  pens.  10-15  fr.  — 
In  the  Riviera  di  Chiaja  (PI.  D,  C,  B,  7),  near  the  Villa  Nazionale,  with  a 
view  of  the  Villa  and  the  sea  :  No.  276 ,  sGran  Bretagna  (PI.  e ;  D ,  7), 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  31/2,  B.  I1/2,  dej.  31/2,  D.  5,  pens.  10-15  fr. ;  No.  127, 
Hotel-Pension  de  la  Riviera  (PI.  f;  C,  7),  pens.  8-10  fr. ;  No.  118,  Hotel- 
Pens,  de  la  Ville,  R. ,  L. ,  &  A.  from  3,  B.  1,  dej.  21/2,  D.  31/2,  pens. 
7-8  fr.  —  In  the  Via  Partenope,  facing  the  sea,  with  the  Strada  Chiatamone 

2* 


20    Route  3.  NAPLES.  Hotels. 

behind:  Vittoeia  (PI.  v;  E,  7);  Hasslee  (PI.  H ;  E,  7),  patronized  by  Ger- 
mans, E.  from  3,  L.  1/2,  A.  3/4,  B.  I1/2,  dej.  with  wine  3,  D.  with  wine 
4V2,  pens.  11-12,  or  without  dej.  9-10  fr.;  Washington  (PL  K;  E,  7),  E., 
L.,  &  A.  from  3,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  3'/2,  D.  4V2  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  8  fr. ;  ''Ho- 
tel Eotal  des  Eteangees  (PI.  j ;  E,  7),  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  5  ,  B.  li/s,  dej. 
4,  D.  5,  pens,  from  12'/2  fr.,  patronized  by  the  English  and  Americans; 
"MGteopole  (PI.  c;  E,  7),  E.  from  2,  L.  3/<,  A.  */<,  B-  I'A*,  i63-  21/2,  D.  4, 
pens,  from  71/2  fr.;  'Hot.  du  Vesuve  (PI.  g;  E,  7),  R.  from  3,  A.  «/4,  B.  I1/2, 
dej.  2V2,  D.  4  fr.  —  In  the  Strada  S.  Lucia,  to  the  E.  of  the  Pizzofalcone 
(PI.  E,  7):  Hotel  de  Rossie  (PI.  n;  F,  7),  R.  2-3  fr.,  L.  60,  A.  60c,  B.  l'/4, 
dej.   274,  D.  372,  pens.  7-9  fr. 

The  following  second-class  hotels,  near  the  centre  of  traffic,  are_ chiefly 
visited  by  commercial  men.  At  the  top  of  the  Strada  Medina :  Hotel  de 
Geneve  et  Centkal  (PI.  0;  F,  5),  with  lift,  B.  3,  B.  IV2,  D.  incl.  wine  472, 
L.  &  A.  172,  pens.  10  fr. ;  La  Pateia,  32  Via  S.  Giuseppe,  diverging  to  the 
left  of  the  Strada  Medina  a  little  farther  on  (PI.  F,  5),  R.  272  fr.,  unpre- 
tending; Ceoce  di  Malta,  Gradini  S.  Giuseppe  6.  —  In  the  Piazza  S.  Fer- 
dinando ,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Toledo  (PI.  E,  6):  Hotel  d'Eueope  and 
Hotel  d'Oeient,  belonging  to  the  same  landlord,  entrance  by  Strada  Nar- 
dones.  —  In  the  Largo  della  Caritat  Hotel  de  l'Univees,  R.  272-3,  L.  72, 

A.  7z,  B.  1  fr.  20  c,  dej.  2-272,  D.  3-372  (both  incl.  wine).  -  In  the 
Via  Guantai  Nuovi :  Hotel  de  Naples,  Palazzo  Serena,  No.  102,  R.  from  172! 

B.  1,  dej.  274,  D.  372  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  9  fr.  —  Near  the  railway- 
station,  in  the  new   Via  Firenze  (PI.  H,  3):  No.  11,  Bella  Napoli. 

Pensions.  The  following  may  all  be  recommended  for  a  stay  of  from 
3-4  days  upwards  (comp.  p.  xix).  —  Via  Partenope,  No.  1,  corner  of  the 
Largo  Vittoria  (p.  34):  Pension  Macpheeson  (same  proprietrix  as  Hotel 
Britannique,  p.  19),  with  lift,  patronized  by  the  English,  8-12  fr.  —  Chia- 
tamone,  No.  23:  Pens.  d'Allemagne,  7-9  fr.  —  S.  Lucia:  No.  5  (1st  floor), 
Pens,  de  Geneve,  patronized  by  Germans,  6-7  fr.  —  Strada  Nardwm: 
No.  60  (1st  &  2nd  floors),  to  the  W.  of  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  and  the  To- 
ledo, Pens.  Tedesca,  6  fr.  —  Rampe  Brancaccio  (PI.  D,  6;  too  steep  for 
carriages);  No.  20  (1st  floor),  Maison  Bouebon,  patronized  by  Germans, 
6-7  fr.  —  Parco  Margherita  (PI.  D,  6):  No.  2,  Pens,  du  Midi,  7-9  fr.;  No. 
3,  Pens.  Stoeet-Pinto,  6  fr. ;  Pens.  Poli,  6-7  fr.  —  Corso  Principe  Amedeo 
(PI.  C,  6),  No.  14,  Hotel  d:  Pension  Bellevoe,  7-9  fr.  —  Mergellina  34 
(PI.  B,  7),  Pal.  Torlonia,  Mks.  Falcioni-Hensley  (English  Boarding  House). 
—  Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo  (p.  87),  Pens.  Ang-  laise  (  Villa  Cappella;  Miss 
Baker),  6-8  fr. ;  Pens.  Sabelli,  6-8  fr. ;  both  patronized  by  the  English. 

Hotels  Garnis.  For  a  stay  of  some  duration  (10  days  and  upwards) 
the  traveller  .may  prefer  to  take  rooms  at  a  private  hotel,  where  he  will 
be  more  independent  than  at  a  hotel  or  a  pension.  Charges  vary  with  the 
season ,  culminating  on  unusual  occasions ,  such  as  an  eruption  of  Mt. 
Vesuvius,  which  invariably  attracts  crowds  of  visitors.  The  rooms  are 
generally  large  and  fitted  up  for  two  persons:  with  one  bed  172-4,  with 
two  beds  3-6  fr.  per  day.  The  number  of  days  for  which  the  room  is 
engaged  should  be  expressly  stated,  otherwise  the  visitor  may  be  required 
to  leave  unexpectedly,  and  a  distinct  bargain  should  be  made  as.  to  charges 
(«.  g,  :  A.  72  fr.,  L.  30  c.  per  day).  Breakfast  may  usually  be  obtained  in 
the  house,  but  better  at  a  cafe.  The  best  lodgings  are  in  the  new  houses 
in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  and  the  Rione  Principe  Amedeo,  with 
splendid  view  (50-60  fr.  monthly,  incl.  attendance):  e.  g.  in  the  Casa 
Amedeo,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  143;  also  in  S.  Lucia,  Nos.  28,  31,  92;  in  the 
.Chiaja,  Nos.  171,  260,  263,  etc. 

Restaurants  (Trattorie;  comp.  p.  xx)  very  numerous.  Italian  cuisine. 
Smoking  universal ;  ladies,  however,  may  visit  the  better  of  these  establish- 
ments. —  "Birreria  Gambrinus,  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando,  dej. ,11-1  o'cl.  2,  D., 
6-9  o'cl.,  4fr.;  "Birreria  di  Monaco,  Piazza  Municipio,  Via  S.  Carlo' 49-50, 
dej.  incl.  wine  2-2'/2,  D.  incl.  wine,  3-5  fr.;  'Rent.  Starace,  Galleria  Cm- 
berto  1,  dej.  272,  D.  4  fr.  (both  incl.  wine).  These  three  h;tve  excellent 
cuisine  and  good  wines;  also  Munich  beer  on  draught,  35-55  c  ;  music  in 
the  evening  at  the  two  last.  —  Restaurant. Continental,  Strada  Medina  61  well 
spoken   of;    Birreria-Restaurant  Eden.    S.  Lucia,    onDosife   the    Hotel    du 


Restaurants.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      21 

Vesuve,  with  garden.  —  Giardini  di  Torino",  Toledo  300,  at  the  corner 
of  the  Vico  Tre  Ee,  moderate;  Regina  <T Italia,  Toledo  319,  entrance  in 
the  Vico  S.  Sepolcro,  much  frequented;  Trattoria  Com fortabile,  also  in  the 
Toledo,  close  to  the  Largo  dellaCarita;  Falcone,  Strada  Guantai  Nuovi  9; 
Al  Campidoglio  ,  same  street;  Trattoria  Milanese,  opposite  the  post-office, 
with  N.  Italian  cuisine  and  wines  ;  Cafi  Santangelo,  in  the  Galleria  Prin- 
cipe di  Napoli  (p.  41),  lunch  2-3,  D.  4-5  fr.,  convenient  for  visitors  to  the 
museum,  hut  not  recommended  in  cold  weather.  Several  cheaper  trattorie 
may  also  be.  found  in  this  neighbourhood. 

The  Trattorie  di  Campagna,  by  the  Posilipo,  close  to  the  sea,  are  very 
popular  in  summer  and  command  superb  views,  especially  by  moonlight. 
Figlio  di  Pielro ,  La  Sirena ,  close  to  the  ruins  of  the  Palazzo  di  Donn' 
Anna  (p.  87),  l'/a  M.  from  the  W.  end  of  the  town;  two  Trattorie  in  the 
Palazzo  itself;  about  1/4  M.  beyond  it  is  the  Antica  Trattoria  dello  Scoglio 
di  Frisio;  all  these  are  mediocre  and  dear,  so  that  previous  agreement, 
as  to  charges  is  strongly  recommended.  The  following  are  somewhat 
cheaper  houses:  Trait,  della  Stella  di  Posilipo,  Bellavista,  etc.;  all  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  Posilipo,  near  the  tramway-terminus.  The  Trattoria 
Pallino  (p.  85),  on  the  Posilipo  (exquisite  view),  and  the  Trattoria  Pastafina, 
at  the  W.  extremity  of  the  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele,  near  the  station  of  the 
line  to  Cuinre  (Ferrovia  Cumana;  p.  91),  are  also  much  frequented. 

Wine.  The  wine  of  the  environs  is  generally  excellent,  50-80  c.  per  litre, 
such  as  Salerno,  Gragnano,  Ischia,  Vino  di  Procida,  del  Monte  di  Procida, 
and  di  Posilipo.  Marsala ,  Falerno ,  Capri ,  and  Lacrima  Christi  are  sold 
by  the  bottle.  Wine-stores:  Str.  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  136,  146;  Via  Paolo 
Emilio  Imbriani  42  (good  Vesuvio),  etc.  Good  Neapolitan,  Sicilian,  and 
S.  Italian  wines  may  also  be  obtained  at  numerous  small  and  very  un- 
pretending wine-stores,  such  as  the  Osteria  Vincenzo  Bifulgo,  Vico  Conte 
di  Mola  (PI.  B,  6).  Foreign  wines  sold  by  Luigi  Caflisch,  Toledo  315  and  S. 
Caterina  a  Chiaja  142;  Rouff,  Scala,  Strada  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja;  etc. 

Cafes  (comp.  p.  xxi).  The  best  cafes  are  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Toledo, 
near  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscite.  Here  are  situated:  "Cafi-Restaurant  Gam- 
brimis  (see  p.  20);  farther  on,  "Restaurant  Starace  (see  p.  20).  There  are 
also  several  smaller  cafes  in  the  Toledo:  No.  316,  Gran  Cafe"  <f Italia.  — 
Gaffe  di  Monaco,  near  the  Castel  Nuovo.  —  At  the  Villa  Nazionale :  Caffe  di 
Napoli,  adjoining  the  Aquarium,  concerts  in  the  afternoon  or  evening  (ac- 
cording to  the  season).  —  Coffee  prepared  in  the  Oriental  style  may  be 
obtained  at  the  Caffe  Turco,  in  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito,  and  the  Caffe  Turco, 
Strada  S.  Brigida. 

Beer.  In  the  Birrerie  and  trattorie  mentioned  above;  Sedlmayr  zum 
Spaten  (Munich  beer  in  bottles),  Strada  Guantai  Nuovi  46,  3rd  floor. 

Confectioners:  "Caflisch,  Toledo  253-255  and  Strada  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja 
142;  Van  Bol  A  Feste ,  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  51 ;  Ferroni,  S.  Brigida  3.  — 
Boulangerie  Francaise,  S.  Brigida  2;  Machine-made  Bread,  Via  Vittoria  11 ; 
German  Baker,  Str.  Carlo  Poerio  a  Chiaja  69.  —  English  Grocery  Stores 
(Smith  &  Co.),  Galleria  Umberto. 

Cigars.  The  government-shop  (Spaccio  normale)  is  in  the  Toledo,  No.  248, 
opposite  the  Galleria  Umberto  I.  Imported  Havannah  cigars  cost  from  25  c. 
upwards. 

b.     Carriages,  Tramways,  Boats. 

Information  about  cab-fares,  and  the  tramway  and  railway  communi- 
cations in  the  environs  of  Naples  will  be  found  in  the  Orario,  published 
monthly,  and  sold  everywhere  in  the  streets  (5  c). 

Carriages.  The  distances  in  Naples  are  so  great,  carriage-fares  are  so 
moderate,  and  walking  in  the  hot  season  is  so  fatiguing,  that  most  tra- 
vellers will  prefer  driving  to  walking.  A  private  two-horse  carriage  for 
excursions  costs  20-25  fr.  per  day,  or  12-15  fr.  for  half-a-day,  besides  a 
gratuity  of  2-3  fr.  Carriages  may  be  hired  at  the  hotels,  etc.  —  The 
ordinary  cabs  are  of  course  the  cheapest  conveyances.  The  cabmen  of  Naples 
are  notorious  for  their  attempts  at  imposition.  In  order  to  avoid  imposi- 
tion, the  best  course  is  to  pay  the  exact  fare,  and  not  a  single  soldo  more. 


22      Route  3.  NAPLES.  Cabs. 

Those  who  are  disposed  to  pay  literally  are  sure  to  be  victimised.  The 
Neapolitans  strike  a  bargain  before  entering  the  vehicle,  and  sometimes 
pay  even  less  than  the  tariff-charge.  In  order  to  avoid  misunderstandings, 
the  driver  should  be  asked  to  repeat  the  given  direction  before  starting 
('avete  capito  dove  dovete  andare').  In  case  of  altercations,  application  should 
be  made  to  the  nearest  policeman  (p.  19),  or  at  the  office  of  the  Corso 
Pubblico  on  the  first  floor  of  the  Municipio.  In  the  latter  case  the  tra- 
veller should  not  forget  to  take  one  of  the  tickets  bearing  the  driver's 
number  from  the  pocket  hanging  behind  the  box  of  the  vehicle.  —  A  careful 
study  of  the  tramway  and  omnibus  routes  given  below  will  render  the 
traveller  practically  independent  of  cabs. 

Cab  Fares.  —  a.  Within  the  City  proper,  extending  W.  to  the  Mer- 
gellina,  N.  to  the  Tondo  di  Capodimonte  (PI.  D,  E,  1),  and  E.  to  the  Ponte 
della  Maddalena  (to  the  E.  of  the  Castel  del  Carmine;  PI.  H,  4). 

Open  one-horse  carriage  ('carrozzella'',  for  two        By  day       By  night 
persons,  or  three  at  most):  '"mJUuS)'* 

Per  drive —     70  c.     1  fr.  10  c. 

By  time  (generally  disadvantageous),  first  hour    1  fr.  50  c.     2  fr.  10  c. 

Each  additional  hour 1  fr.  10  c.     1  fr.  50  c. 

Closed  one-horse  carr.  (vetture-coupee),  per  drive    1  fr.  —         1  fr.  50  c. 

By  time :  first  hour 2  fr.  —         2  fr.  50  c. 

Each  additional  hour 1  fr.  50  c.     2  fr.  — 

With  two  horses:  per  drive 1  fr.  40  c.     2  fr.  20  c. 

First  hour 2  fr.  20  c.     3  fr.  20  c. 

Each  additional  hour 1  fr.  70  c.     2  fr.  20  c. 

Each  box  from  the  station  to  the  town  20  c,  smaller  articles  free. 
For  a  drive    in   the  corso   in  the  Via  Caracciolo  (p.  33),    a  carr.  with 
one  horse  costs  3  fr. ,   with  two  horses  6  fr.  the  first  hr. ,    2  or  4  fr.  each 
additional  hour, 
(b)     Outside  the  Citt:  —  One-horse    Two-horse 

Fuorigrotta 1.  20  2.  40 

Bagnoli  and  Lago  d"Agnano  (Bog  Grotto)      ...  2.  50  4.  — 

Pozzaoli 3.  —  4.  75 

Arenella,  Aniignano,  Vomero,  S.  Martino, 

or  Villaggio  di  Capodimonte 2.  —  3.  25 

Campo  di  Marie  or  Cimelero  Nuovo 2.  —  3.  25 

Portici 2.  25  3.  50 

Resina 2.  50  4.  — 

Torre  del  Greco 3.  50  5.  — 

These  are  the  fares  from  the  stands  nearest  to  the  respective  points.  Un- 
less a  special  bargain  be  made,  the  fares  from  other  stands  are  70  c.  to  1  fr. 
10  c.  in  excess  of  the  above.  Cabs  may  also  be  hired  by  time  for  visits 
to  these  places ;  one-horse  carr.  2i/2,  two-horse  3V2  fr.  per  hr.  For  longer 
excursions,  an  agreement  should  be  made  with  the  driver  beforehand.  On 
Sundays  and  holidays  the  fares  are  somewhat  higher. 

Tramways  in  the  town.  —  Fare  15-30c,  according  to  the  distance. 
The  2nd  class  seats,   which   are   cheaper  by  5  c,  should  be  avoided. 

1  (Horse  Cars).  From  the  Post  Office  (PI.  F,  5)  across  the  Pi- 
azza del  Municipio  (PI.  F,  6),  by  the  Via  S.  Carlo,  the  Piazza  or  Largo 
S.  Ferdinando  (PI.  E,  6 ;  p.  36),  Piazza  del  Plebiscito,  Strada  S.  Lucia  (PI.  E, 
F,  7),  Chiaja,  past  La  Toreetta  (junction  of  the  tramway  to  Pozzuoli,  see 
p.  23)  through  the  Mergellina,  and  past  the  Palazzo  di  DonrC  Anna  to  the 
trattoria  Stella  di  Posilipo  (p.  21). 

2  (Horse  Cars).  From  the  Largo  S.  Ferdinando  (PI.  E,  6 ;  p.  36),  by 
the  Piazza  del  Municipio  (PI.  F,  6),  Strada  del  Piliero  (PI.  F,  G,  6,  5),  etc., 
past  the  Castel  del  Carmine  (PI.  H,  40;  p.  39),  to  Portici  (p.  108;  every  10 
min.)  and  Torre  del  Greco  (p.  110;  every  20mln.). 

3  (Horse  Cars).  From  the  Museum  (PI.  E,  F,  3)  as  in  No.  4  via  Porta 
Capuana  and  the  Castel  del  Carmine  to  Porlici  (p.  108). 

4  (Horse  Cars).  From  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  (PI.  E,  6  ;  p.  36)  as 
above  to  the  Castel  del  Carmine  (PI.  H,  4;  p.  39),  then  to  the  N.  through 
the  Corso  Garibaldi  past  the  Central  Station  (PI.  H,  3)   to  the  Porta  Capu- 


Tramways.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      23 

ana   (PI.  H,  3;  p.  49),   and   by  the  Strada   Carbonara  (PI.  G,   3),   Strada 
Foria,  and  Piazza  Cavour  to  the  Museum  (PI.  E,  F,  3;  p.  55). 

5  (Horse  Cars).  From  the  Tiro  Provinciale  (PI.  H,  1)  by  the  Strada 
Foria  and  Piazza  Cavour  to  the  Museum  (PI.  E,  F,  3 ;  p.  55). 

6  (Horse  Cars).  From  the  Reclusorio  (PI.  G ,  H,  2,  1)  through  the 
Borgo  S.  Antonio  and  the  Cvrso  Garibaldi  (PI.  H,  3,  4),  and  past  the  Castel 
del  Carmine,  then  along  the  Harbour,  and  as  in  No.  4  to  La  Torretta 
(PI.  B,  7;  see  below). 

7  (Steam  Tramway).  From  the  Museum  (PI.  E,  F,  3)  by  a  rack-and-pinion 
line  through  the  Via  Salvator  Rosa  (PI.  E ,  3)  to  the  Piazza  Salvator 
Kosa  (PI.  E ,  D ,  4) ;  then  by  ordinary  steam-tramway  along  the  whole 
Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  to  the  Piazza  di  PiedigroUa  (PI.  B,  7)  and  thence  to 
La  Torretta  (PI.  B,  7;  see  above,  No.  1  and  6,  and  below).  Trains  (24  daily 
in  each  direction)  about  every  40  min.,  from  6.40  and  7  a.m.,  performing 
the  journey  in  50  min.  (fare  15-30  c).  The  train  stops  as  required,  but 
there  are  fixed  stations  at  the  Piazza  Salvator  Rosa,  Vico  Cariati  (PI.  E,  6), 
Rione  Amedeo  (Parco  Margherita,  PI.  C,  6),  and  Via  Tasso  (PI.  C,  6). 

Cable  Tramways  (Ferrovie  Funicolari)  to  the  top  of  the  Vomero  (PI.  C,  5) 
from  Rione  Amedeo  (PI.  C,  6;  with  station  beside  the  Hotel  Bristol  in  the 
Corso  Vitt.  Eman.  PI.  D,  7)  and  from  Monte  Santo  (PI.  E,  4;  near  the 
station  of  the  Pozzuoli,  Baise,  and  Cumse  Railway). 

Tramways  in  the  Environs.  —  1  (Horse  Cars).  The  line  mentioned 
above  (No.  2)  to  Portici  and  Torre  del  Greco. 

2  (Horse  Cars).  From  the  Porta  Capuana  (beside  the  railway-station 
for  Nola,  PI.  H,  3)  to  the  Camposanto  (p.  49)  and  to  Poggio  Reale. 

3  (Steam  Tramway).  From  the  Porta  Capuana  to  the  Tiro  a  Segno 
(PI.  H,  1) ,  and  via  Capodichino,  S.  Pietro  a  Patierno,  Casoria,  Afragola, 
and  Cardito  to  Caivano  (every  I-IV2  hr.). 

4  (Steam  Tramway).  From  the  Porta  Capuana  (as  in  No.  3)  to  Capo- 
dichino, and  via  Secondigliano ,  Melito  (branch  to  Giugliano),  to  Aversa 
(p.  203),  every  2  hrs. 

5  (Steam  Tramway).  From  1a  Torretta  (PI.  B,  7 ;  steam-tramway 
from  the  Museum ,  see  above)  through  the  new  Grotta  di  Posilipo  to  Poz- 
zuoli (p.  93).  The  cars  are  drawn  from  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  (p.  22)  by 
horses  and  are  attached  to  the  locomotive  at  La  Torretta,  so  that 
passengers  need  not  alight.  To  make  sure  of  a  seat  it  is  advisable  to  take 
the  car  from  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando. 

Omnibuses.  The  chief  starting-point  is  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  (PI.  E,  6 ; 
p.  36),  whence  among  others  start  the  omnibuses  (every  5  min.)  ascend- 
ing the  Toledo  to  the  Museum  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  and  plying  thence  to  Capodimonte 
(PI.  E,  1);  and  those  running  by  the  Corso  Principe  Amedeo  to  the  Corso 
Vittorio  Emanuele  Station  (PI.  B,  6)  of  the  line  to  Pozzuoli  mentioned  at 
p.  91  (20  c).  —  The  omnibuses  plying  from  the  Piazza  del  Municipio  to 
the  environs  are  not  recommended  to  strangers. 

Boats.  Row  in  the  harbour  1-1 1/2  fr.  for  the  first,  1  fr.  for  each  ad- 
ditional hour.  A  previous  agreement  should  be  made.  Boats  to  the  mail- 
steamers,  lfr.  including  luggage;  to  the  Ischia,  Sorrento,  and  Capri  steamers 
30c.  —  A  large  steamer,  starting  at  the  new  wooden  bridge  in  the  Via 
Caracciolo,  makes  Circular  Tours  in  the  Gulf  of  Naples  on  Sun.  evenings 
in  summer  (weather  permitting).  Fares  from  6.30  till  8 ,  1  fr. ;  from 
9.30  till  midnight,  2  fr. 

0.  Bankers,  Money  Changers,  Consulates,  Physicians,  Hospitals,  Baths, 
Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  English  Church,  etc. 

Bankers.  W.  J.  Turner  &  Co.,  S.  Lucia  64;  Meuricoffre  d;  Co.,  Via 
del  Municipio  52 ;  Holme  &  Co. ,  Strada  Flavio  Gioia  2 ;  Th.  Cook  <&  Son, 
Piazza  dei  Martiri  52;  C.  Aselmeyer,  Via  S.  Brigida  6.  Bills  of  exchange 
and  foreign  cheques  must  be  stamped  on  presentation  for  payment  with 
a  '■bollo  straordinario\  obtainable  at  the  Uffizio  del  Bollo  Straordinario 
in  the  Municipio. 

Honey  Changers  are  stationed  at  several  of  the  most  frequented  parts 
of  the  streets.     Small  amounts  of   1-2  fr.  may  be  exchanged  here  gratuit- 


24      Route  3.  NAPLES.  Baths. 

ously  for  copper.  In  changing  silver,  the  traveller  should  beware  of  false 
or  obsolete  coins  (see  p.  xi).  No  other  banknotes  should  be  taken  than 
the  Biglietti  di  Stato,  or  those  of  the  Banca  Nazionale  and  the  Banco  di 
Napoli.  The  change  should  of  course  be  counted.  In  order  to  avoid  impo- 
sition and  many  a  trial  of  patience,  the  traveller  should  always  be  well 
provided  with  copper  coins. 

Consulates.  American  (Mr.  John  S.  Twells),  64  Strada  S.  Lucia  (11-3); 
Austrian,  S.  Anna  dei  Lombardi  44;  British  (Capt.  Hartwell,  R.N.),  4  Monte 
di  Dio,  Pizzofalcone  (10-3);  Danish,  Via  S.  Brigida6;  Norwegian  and  Swe- 
dish, Via  Amedeo  15;  Dutch,  Piazza  del  Municipio  52;  French,  Via  Vittoria, 
Pal.  Amodio;  German,  Via  Pontano  13;  Russian,  Via  Chiatamone30;  Swiss, 
Piazza  del  Municipio  52. 

Physicians.  Dr.  C.  Wright  Barringer,  Riviera  di  Chiaja  267;  Dr.  Johnston 
Lavis,  Chiatamone  7;  Dr.  Gairdner ,  Pal.  Fraia,  Via  Amedeo  128;  Dr.  Can- 
tani  (of  Prague),  director  of  the  Clinica  Medica  at  the  university,  Str. 
Fuoriporta  Medina  23  ;  Dr.  Malbranc,  physician  of  the  German  hospital  (see 
below),  Via  Amedeo  145,  Palazzo  Grifeo;  Dr.  Schrbn,  professor  at  the 
university,  Palazza  Montemiletto,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  440  (hour  of  consul- 
tation 9-10);  Dr.  Imfeld,  Eldorado,  Piazza  Mondragone;  Dr.  Scotti  (ocu- 
list), physician  to  the  International  Hospital  (see  below) ;  Dr.  Cardarelli, 
Strada  Costantinopoli  33 ;  Dr.  Ernesto  Chiaradia.  31  Bisignano  (speaks  English). 
—  Dentists:  Dr.  Atkinson,  Via  Roma  (gia  Toledo)  228;  Dr.  Kessel,  Piazza 
dei  Martiri  19. 

Chemists.  Anglo-American  Pharmacy  (J.  Durst).  Piazza  Garofalo  a 
Chiaja  31 ;  Santoro,  Piazza  Carolina  7  (above  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito), 
Homeopathic  Druggist,  Toledo  388. —  Drug-dealers,  Fratelli  Hermann,  Piazza 
del  Municipio  73.  —  Surgical  and  Hygienic  Articles.  Mineral  Water,  etc.,  H.  Pe- 
tersen, Strada  S.  Anna  dei  Lombardi  49,  near  the  post-office. 

Hospitals.  In  the  event  of  serious  illness  travellers  are  strongly  re- 
commended to  procure  admission  to  the  Ospedale  Jnternazionale,  Villa 
Bentinck,  Via  Tasso  (PI.  C,  6),  in  a  most  healthy  situation,  supported  by 
voluntary  contributions,  and  open  to  strangers  of  all  nationalities,  under 
the  superintendence  of  Dr.  Scotti  (1st  cl.  15,  2nd  cl.  6  fr.  per  day).  — 
Another  good  and  less  expensive  hospital  is  that  of  the  German  commu- 
nity of  Naples  (Deutsches  Krankenhaus;  PL  C,  7),  Rione  Amedeo,  Via 
Pontano,  Largo  Terracina  a  Chiaja  (1st  cl.  10,  2nd  cl.  6  fr.  per  day;  su- 
perintendent, Dr.  Malbranc). 

Baths.  Warm :  "Bains  du  Chiatamone,  also  Russian  and  Turkish  baths ; 
others  at  Vico  Belle  Donne  a  Chiaja  12  and  Loggia  Berio  alia  Speran- 
zella,  both  belonging  to  a  Swiss  proprietor.  —  Sea-Bathing  in  summer. 
The  most  frequented  place  is  beyond  the  Villa  Nazionale,  but  as  the  drains 
of  the  town  empty  themselves  in  the  vicinity,  the  water  is  anything  but  clean. 
A  better  place  is  at  the  Posilipo  near  the  Villa  Monplaisir,  immediately 
beyond  the  precincts  of  the  city ;  large  cabinet  I1/2  fr.  with  towels,  small 
cabinet  60  c. ;  fee  5  c. 

Lieux  d'Aisance  (Latrine  Pubbliche ;  10  c.)  at  the  Villa,  by  the  egress 
towards  the  sea,  near  the  large  fountain ;  also  by  the  promontory  of  S. 
Lucia ,  to  which  a  flight  of  steps  descends ,  to  the  left ;  at  the  harbour, 
near  the  Immacolatella;  in  the  Toledo,  to  the  left  of  the  Museum;  at  the 
Reclusorio  ;  in  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito,  to  the  left  of  the  colonnades; 
on  the  stairs  ascending  to  the  Ponte  di  Chiaja. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  in  the  Palazzo  Gravina  (PI.  F,  5 ;  p.  43), 
Strada  Montoliveto.  Branch  Offices  in  the  Piazza  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja,  the 
railway-station,  Str.  del  Duomo  58,  at  the  Immacolatella  on  the  quay  (PI. 
G,  5),  Via  Salvator  Rosa  287,  in  the  Torretta  (PI.  B,  7),  opposite  the 
Museo  Nazionale  (p.  55).  Letters  should  be  posted  at  the  branch-offices 
2  hrs. ,  and  at  the  general  post-office  1  hr.  before  the  departure  of  the 
mail- train  for  which  they  are  intended.  —  The  chief  Telegraph  Office, 
on  the  first  floor  of  the  Palazzo  Gravina,  is  open  day  and  night.  Branch 
Offices:  Str.  S.  Giacomo  42.  Str.  del  Duomo  136,  Corso  Garibaldi  45, 
nearly  opposite  the  station,  and  Piazza  Garofalo  a  Chiaja  12. 

English  Church  (Christ  Church),  in  the  Strada  S.  Pasquale,  leading  out 
of  the  Riviera  di  Chiaja,    on    the   site  presented    to    the  English  residents 


Shops.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      25 

by  Garibaldi  when  dictator  in  1860;  service  on  Sun.  at  11  a.m.  and  3. 
15.  p.m. ;  on  Wed.,  Frid.,  and  festivals  at  11  a.m. ;  chaplain,  Rev.  H.  T.  Barff, 
yilla  Scoppa,  Parco  Grifeo,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele.  —  Presbyterian  Church 
(Chiesa  Scozzese),  Vico  Cappella  Vecchia  2 ;  service  on  Sun.  at  11  a.  m. 
and  3.30  p.  m.,  on  Wed.  at  3  p.  m.  (Rev.  T.  Johnstone  Irving).  —  Wes- 
leyan  Methodist  Church,  Vico  S.  Anna  di  Palazzo;  English  service  at  11 
(Rev.  T.  W.  S.  Jones).  —  Baptist  Church,  Strada  Foria  175  (Rev.  R.  Walker; 
service  at  11).  —  Floating  Bethel  ('Victoria''),  in  the  harbour;  service  at 
6.30.  —  Italian  Service  of  the  Waldensian  Church,  S.  Tommaso  d'Aquino, 
Vico  Portaria  a  Toledo,  on  Sun.  at  11  a.m.  and  7  p.m.  —  French  and 
German  Protestant  Church ,  Strada  Carlo  Poerio ,  Piazza  dei  Martiri 
(PI.  D,  6). 

The  Evangelical  Schools  for  Italian  children  (supported  by  the  Evan- 
gelical Aid  Committee>,  in  the  building  connected  with  the  Presbyterian 
Church  (see  above)  and  at  the  Waldensian  Church  (see  above) ,  may 
be  visited  on  Monday  forenoons ,  9-12.  —  A  visit  to  the  Kindergarten 
School  in  the  Ex-Collegio  Medico,  Largo  S.  Aniello,  may  also  be  found 
interesting. 

d.    Shops. 

Coral,  tortoise-shell,  and  lava  ornaments  may  be  mentioned  as  spe- 
cialities of  Naples.  Copies  of  ancient  bronzes,  Etruscan  vases,  etc.,  are 
also  well  executed  here.  Bargaining  is  absolutely  necessary  in  order  to 
prevent  extortion.  If  a  number  of  different  articles  are  bought  in  one 
shop,  a  round  sum  should  be  offered  for  the  lot,  25-30  per  cent  below 
the  aggregate  of  the  single  prices.  Those  who  know  something  of  the 
language  will  of  course  buy  to  the  best  advantage.  The  buyer  should  be 
careful  to  maintain  a  polite  and  unexcited  demeanour. 

Antique  Bronzes.  Copies  may  be  obtained  from  Gen.  Chiurazzi,  Gal- 
leria  Principe  di  Napoli  No.  6  (studio  in  the  Albergo  dei  Poveri);  and  in 
the  photograph- shops  of  Sommer,  Amodio ,  etc.  (Narcissus  100-150  fr. ; 
Dancing  Faun  130-160  fr.).  The  bronzes  executed  by  Sabatino  de  Angelis, 
Strada  Nuova  di  Capodimonte,  are  said  to  be  especially  good;  specimens 
may  be  bought  in  the  Galleria  Principe  di  Napoli  (p.  41) ,  near  the  Cafe 
Santangelo.  —  The  green  bronzes  are  cheaper  than  the  copper-coloured. 

Antiquities.  Scognamiglio ,  Piazza  dei  Martiri  54;  Barone ,  Str.  Tri- 
nita,  Maggiore  6,  second  floor,  nearly  opposite  S.  Chiara;  67.  Varelli,  Gal- 
leria Umberto  I.,  No.  8  (p.  36). 

Booksellers.  Furchheim,  English  and  German  Bookseller,  Piazza  dei 
Martiri  59,  English  and  foreign  books,  newspapers,  photographs,  etc. ;  Delken 
d-  Rocholl,  Piazza  del  Plebiscito;  R.  Marghieri,  Galleria  Umberto  I.,  No.  77. 

Bookbinder,  Bianconcini,  Toledo  149;   Cadamartori,  Monte   di  Dio  77. 

Bronzes,  see  Antique  Bronzes. 

Chemists,  see  p.  24. 

Coral  and  Lava,  Cameos,  Gold  Ornaments.  •Achille  Squadrilli,  Largo 
Vittoria,  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Villa  Nazionale,  an  old-established 
house  with  a  large  assortment  and  fixed  prices  (5  per  cent  discount  allow- 
ed). "Casalta,  Piazza  dei  Martiri  60,  gold  ornaments  after  Pompeian 
models ;  Rocco  Morabito ,  Piazza  dei  Martiri  32 ;  Merlino ,  Strada  del 
GigantelS;  M.  Pisdone,  Riviera  diChiaja271;  N.  Piscione,  Str.  Calabritto 
35;  Giacinto  Melillo,  Riviera  di  Chiaja  286;  De  Caro,  S.  Lucia  70.  — 
Cameos  :  Stella,  Str.  Pace  9  (portraits  in  lava,  coral,  etc.).  —  The  so-called 
lava-ornaments  are  manufactured  of  a  kind  of  calcareous  tufa,  also  found 
on  Mount  Vesuvius,  having  been  probably  thrown  up  by  former  erup- 
tions, and  presenting  various  tints  of  grey,  brown,  greenish,  and  reddish 
colours. 

Haberdashers  &  Hosiers.   Ville  de  Londres,  Strada  Chiaja  198. 

Hairdresser,  see  Perfumer. 

Hatters.    Best  shops  in  the  Toledo  and  Strada  Chiaja. 

Marbles  of  Vitclano.  These  beautiful  coloured  marbles ,  from  the 
quarries  which  furnished  the  adornments  of  the  grand  staircase  at  Caserta 
(p.  9),  may  be  seen  at  Piazza  Cavour  54,  near  the  Museum. 


26      Route  3.  NAPLES.  Theatres. 

Millinery.  Gi/lteridge  &  Co.,  Toledo  192  and  Salita  Museo  92-94; 
Qoudstikker  &  Fits ,  Toledo ,  Galleria  Umberto  I.  •,  Shilton  &  Co. ,  Strada 
S.  Brigida;  Magazzini  Generali  Italiani  (Mele  <t   Co.),  Via   del   Municipio. 

Music,  see  Pianos. 

Opticians.  Heinemann,  Toledo  251;  Taylor,  Chiaja4;  Angelo  Ochs,  To- 
ledo 314;   Schnabel,  Toledo  231;  Talbot,  Chiaja  215. 

Peefumeks.  Zempt ,  Galleria  Principe  di  Napoli  (p.  41) ;  Aubry,  Strada 
Chiaja  255;  Barca,  Toledo,  Galleria  Umberto  I.;  Picarelli,  Stajano,  Via 
Calabritto,  Nos.  33  and  4,  are  both  for  ladies. 

Photographs.  Furchheim  (p.  25);  Sommer,  Largo  Vittoria;  Scala, 
S.  Lucia  73;  Amodio,  Via  Vittoria  17;  all  of  these  also  sell  bronzes,  terra- 
cottas, etc.;  Achille  Mauri,  Toledo  256;  Giac.  Brogi  of  Florence,  Strada 
Chiatamone  19bis. 

Pianos  (also  for  hire).  G.  Helzel,  Strada  di  Chiaja  138;  Scognamillo, 
Piazza  Martiri,  Palazzo  Calabritto.  —  Music :  Societa Musicale Napoletana  (Ger- 
man manager),  Strada  di  Chiaja  226;  Cottrau,  Chiaja  73;  Ricordi,  Galleria 
Umberto  I.  (p.  36).  —  Music  Masters,  very  numerous;  addresses  obtained 
at  the  music-shops. 

Shoemakers.  Baldelli,  Strada  di  Chiaja  240;  De  Notaris,  Str.  di 
Chiaja  189;  Calzoleria  Reale  di  M.  Forte,  Toledo  259,  Via  S.  Carlo,  Galleria 
Umberto  I. ;  Ferro,  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  49. 

Stationers.  Richter  (lithographer),  Colonnade  di  S.  Francesco  di  Paola 
10-12  and  Toledo  309 ;  Lattes,  Via  S.  Giuseppe  25  and  Strada  di  Chiaja  81 ; 
Tipaldi,  Str.  Montoliveto  51  (artists'  requisites);  Furchheim  (p.  25). 

Straw -Plaiting  from  Ischia,  where  this  industry  has  been  intro- 
duced since  the  earthquake  of  1883:  Lavoro  e  Carita,  Chiaja  84. 

Tailors.  Lennon  &  Murray  (English),  Str.  Calabritto  2;  Kieper,  Str. 
Montoliveto  61 ;  both  good  but  expensive.  Ready-made  clothes  at  Fra- 
telli  Bocconi,  Toledo  343. 

Tortoise  Shell.  JSguadrilli,  Piazza  Vittoria  (see  p.  25);  L.  Labriola, 
Str.  Chiatamone  23bis;  M.  Labriola,  Fratelli  Labriola,  Rocco  Morabito  (see 
p.  25),  Tagliaferri,  all  in  the  Via  Calabritto. 

Umbrellas  and  Fans.  Gilardini,  Toledo  335;  De  Martina,  Strada  di 
Chiaja  210. 

Vases,  Majolica,  Terracottas,  and  Statuettes  (of  Neapolitan  fig- 
ures, very  characteristic):  Industria  Ceramica  Napoletana,  Via  Chiaja  5; 
Cacciapuoli,  Via  Chiaja  84;  Ginori,  No.  31  in  the  continuation  of  the  Strada 
S.  Brigida;  Scala,  S.  Lucia  73;  Mollica,  Strada  del  Gigante  17.  Also  at 
several  of  the  photograph-shops  (see  above). 

Watchmakers.  Gutwenger,  Str.  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  66;  Wyss,  Str.  S. 
Brigida  47;  Lista,  Str.  S.  Brigida  7. 

Wood  Carvings  from  Sorrento:   Gargiulo  (p.  148),  Via  Calabritto  5. 

Goods  Agents.  E.  G.  Vickers  &  Co.,  Via  Vittoria  19;  Grimaldi,  S. 
Brigida  15;  in  the  last  two  railway  and  steamboat-tickets  are  also  issued. 

e.  Theatres,  Street  Scenes,  Religious  and  National  Festivals. 
Theatres  (comp.  p.  xxii).  The  -Teatro  S.  Carlo  (PI.  F,  6 ;  p.  36),  one  of 
the  largest  theatres  in  Europe,  contains  six  tiers  of  boxes,  32  in  each.  Operas 
and  ballet  only.  Parterre  6  fr.  (fauteuil  or  poltrona  12  fr.) ;  boxes ,  1st 
tier  55  fr.,  2nd  tier  65  fr.,  3rd  40  fr.,  and  so  on.  —  Teatro  del  Fondo 
(or  Mercadante),  in  the  Piazza  del  Municipio  ,  closed  at  present.  —  Tea- 
tro Nuovo,  in  the  Vico  del  Teatro  Nuovo,  a  side-street  of  the  Toledo. 
Comic  opera.  —  Teatro  Bellini,  Strada  Bellini  (PI.  F,  4),  entrance 
by  the  Via  Conte  di  Ruvo.  Dramas  and  operas.  Parterre  2  fr.;  boxes  6,  10, 
14  fr.,  etc.  —  Teatro  Rossini,  Strada  fuori  Porta  Medina.  Comedies  and 
operas. — Teatro  Sannazaro,  Str.  di  Chiaja.  Dramas  and  comedies;  also 
pieces  in  dialect.  Parterre  3  fr.  —  Teatro  Politeama  (PI.  F,  7),  Strada  Monte 
di  Dio.  Musical  entertainments,  operettas,  circus.  —  Teatro  Fiorentini 
(PI.  E,  F.  5),  in  the  street  of  that  name.  Dramas.  Parterre  1  fr.  20  c,  fau- 
teuil 2  fr.  70  c,  boxes,  1st  tier  11  fr. ,  2nd  tier  12  fr.,  etc.  —  Teatro 
Fenice  (PI.  E,  F,  6),  Piazza  del  Municipio;  Teatro  K.  Carlino,  Piazza  del 
Porto  ,  at  the  end  of  the  Str.  del  Castello ;  Teatro  Petrella,  Str.  Flavia 
Gioia.     At   these'  farces   and   dialect   pieces.    —   The    Salone  Margherita, 


Street  Scenes.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      27 

Galleria    Umberto    I.,    is    a    kind    of    cafe    chantant    or    music-hall.    

The  visitor  may  become  acquainted  at  two  Popular  Theatres  in  the 
Strada  Foria  (PI.  G,  2)  with  'Pulcinella',  the  'Punch  and  Judy1  of  the 
Neapolitans,  to  whom  the  spectacle  is  an  unfailing  source  of  amusement. 
These  performances  are  said  to  derive  their  origin  from  the  ancient  Oscan 
comedy  of  Atella.  Those  who  have  some  knowledge  of  the  Neapolitan 
dialect  will  find  them  not  beneath  their  notice.  Acerra  (p.  10)  is  said  to 
be  the  original  home  of  Pulcinella.  At  Christmas  and  Easter  curious  reli- 
gious plays  are  performed  in  these  theatres.  —  The  numerous  Marionette 
Theatres  ,  in  the  Strada  Foria  and  on  the  Marinella ,  with  their  blood- 
thirsty plays  of  melodramatic  chivalry,   are  also  characteristic. 

Street  Scenes.  —  The  life  of  the  people  in  Naples  is  carried  on  with 
greater  freedom  and  more  careless  indifference  to  publicity  than  in  any 
other  town  in  Europe.  From  morning  till  night  the  streets  resound  with 
the  cries  of  the  vendors  of  edibles  and  other  articles.  Strangers  especially 
are  usually  besieged  by  swarms  of  hawkers,  pushing  their  wares,  and  all 
eager  and  able  to  take  full  advantage  of  the  inexperience  of  their  victims. 
The  most  medley  throng  is  seen  in  the  Toledo  (p.  40),  especially  towards 
evening  and  after  the  lamps  are  lit.  At  fixed  hours  the  importunate 
tribe  of  Oiornalisti  or  newsvendors  makes  itself  heard ,  and  late  in  the 
evening  appear  the  lanterns  of  the  Trovatori ,  hunting  for  cigar-ends  and 
similar  unconsidered  trifles.  The  Strada  del  Castello  or  di  Porto  (PI.  F,5), 
opposite  the  Castello  Nuovo  (p.  37),  is  another  centre  of  popular  life. 
A  double  row  of  awnings  stretches  in  front  of  the  houses,  and  itinerant 
cooks  set  up  their  stoves  and  drive  a  brisk  trade  in  fish,  meat,  or  maccaroni, 
while  in  the  Calata  di  S.  Marco  (to  the  left)  other  dealers  tempt  the  crowd 
with  fragments  from  the  trattorie  or  trays  of  carefully  assorted  cigar-ends. 
The  narrow  side-streets  between  the^Mercato  (p.  39)  and  the  Mercato  del 
Pendino  (PI.  G,  4),  especially  in  the  forenoon,  also  afford  most  character- 
istic studies  of  the  humbler  city  life.  Every  Monday  and  Friday  morning 
the  streets  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Porta  Nolana  (PI.  H,  4)  break 
out  in  a  curious  and  animated  rag-fair,  where  all  kinds  of  old  clothes 
change  hands.  The  vicinity  of  the  Porta  Capuana  (PI.  H,  3)  is  another 
centre  of  variegated  life  and  bustle.  This  is  a  haunt  of  the  Public  Readers, 
who  are  also  to  be  regularly  seen  about  4  p.m.  at  the  Villa  del  Popolo 
(p.  39),  opposite  the  Castello  del  Carmine;  Quack  Doctors  extol  their  nos- 
trums in  interminable  harangues,  which  they  punctuate  by  drawing  teeth  ; 
and  not  seldom  Funeral  Processions  pass,  escorted  (as  at  Rome,  Flor- 
ence, etc.)  by  the  fantastically  disguised  members  of  the  brotherhood 
to  which  the  deceased  has  belonged.  The  gorgeous  coffins,  however, 
which  appear  in  the  processions,  are  usually  empty,  the  corpse  having 
as  a  rule  been  previously  conveyed  to  the  cemetery'.  During  the  weeks 
before  Christmas  hundreds  of  so-called  Zampognari  perambulate  the  streets, 
playing  their  bag-pipes  and  flutes  before  the  shrines  of  the  Madonna,  but 
all  disappearing  before  Christmas  Day.  —  The  Corso,  mentioned  at  p.  33, 
takes  place  in  the  afternoon  in  winter,  and  in  the  evening  in  summer,  in 
the  Via  Caracciolo,  near  the  Villa  Nazionale.  —  The  numerous  restaurants 
and  eating-houses  on  the  Posilipo  (p.  85),  at  Fuorigrotta  (p.  92),  etc.,  are 
filled  every  fine  Sunday  afternoon  with  gay  crowds ,  amusing  themselves 
with  songs  and  careless  merriment.  —  The  herds  of  goats  which  are 
driven  into  the  town  every  morning  and  evening  will  also  attract 
the  stranger's  interest.  The  animals  enter  the  houses  and  ascend  even 
to  the  highest  story  to  be  milked.  Cows  are  also  driven  through  the 
streets  at  the  same  hours,  and  are  milked  by  the  herdsmen  at  the  doors  of 
the  houses.    These  animals  do  not  add  to  the  cleanliness  of  the  city. 

Shoe-blacks  ('lustring  or  'lustrascarpe'),  whose  knocking  is  intended  to 
attract  passers-by,  10  c. 

Matches.  A  box  of  vestas  (cerinl ,  5  c.)  is  a  desirable  acquisition ,  as 
matches  are  never  provided  at  the  hotels. 

Vendors  of  Iced  Water  (acquaiuoli)  in  summer  are  usually  provided 
with  two  large  tubs  filled  with  snow,  in  which  the  water  is  cooled,  and 
a   supply  of  lemons,    etc.    (2-10  c).     The   excellent  Serino   water  (p.  81), 


28      Route  3.  NAPLES.  Festivals. 

however,  is  to  be  preferred  to  these  beverages,  the  water  in  which  is  of 
unknown  origin.  —  There  are  also  several  mineral  springs  in  the  town, 
containing  sulphur,  iron,  and  carbonic  acid  gas ;  the  best  known  are  at  S. 
Lucia  and  in  the  Str.  Chiatamone,  near  the  Hotel  Royal  des  Etrangers. 
The  water  has  a  slightly  medicinal  effect,  but  the  smell  is  disagreeable 
(5  c.  per  glass). 

Newspapers  (5  c.  each).  The  most  important  are:  the  Corriere  di 
JVapoli,  the  Tribuna  (a  Roman  paper  circulating  extensively  in  Naples), 
and  the  Mattino,  published  in  the  morning  ;  the  Roma,  issued  about  2  p.m.; 
and  the  evening-papers  ,  the  Pvngolo  and  the  Paese.  All  these  are  sold 
in  the  streets,  in  the  Galleria  Vmberto  I.,  etc.  —  The  Naples  Bcha  (Jour- 
nal des  Etrangers),  published  weekly  (Sun.  ;  10  c-)  contains  the  visitors'  list 
and  various  information  of  use  to  strangers.  —  Foreign  newspapers  may 
be  seen  in  the  larger  hotels  and  cafes  and  bought  at  Furchheim's  (p.  25). 

The  Religious  and  National  Festivals  have  lost  much  of  their  former 
significance,  but  the  more  important  are  still  extremely  interesting.  The 
Festival  of  the  Vekgine  di  Piedigrotta  (p.  86 ;  Sept.  7-8th),  celebrated 
until  1859  with  great  magnificence  in  memory  of  the  victory  of  Charles  III. 
over  the  Austrians  at  Velletri  in  1735,  was  formerly  the  greatest  of  all, 
but  has  now  become  chiefly  a  night-festival,  celebrated,  sometimes  in  an 
uproarious  manner,  in  and  around  the  Grotta  di  Posilipo  (p.  86).  —  A  more 
interesting  sight  is  now  presented  on  Whitmonday  by  the  Return  of  the 
Pilgrims  from  the  shrine  of  the  Madonna  di  Monte  Vergine  near  Avellino 
(p.  175).  The  Neapolitan  pilgrims  (often  20  000  in  number)  return  to  the 
town  via  Nola  in  a  gay  procession  which  vies  with  those  of  the  Bacchanalians 
of  old,  and  is  welcomed  by  crowds  which  take  up  position  about  5  p.m. 
in  the  streets  skirting  the  harbour.  On  the  following  day  the  pilgrims 
proceed  to  celebrate  the  festival  of  the  Madonna  dell'  Aeco,  6  M.  from 
Naples,  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Somma,  from  which  they  again  return  in  pro- 
cession in  the  most  exuberant  spirits.  —  On  Maundy  Thursday  until  late 
at  night,  and  on  Good  Friday  morning,  the  Toledo  is  thronged  with  ped- 
estrians taking  part  in  a  sort  of  ceremonial  promenade,  known  as  Lo 
Strusoio,  from  the  rustling  of  the  silk  garments.  The  shops  are  all  bril- 
liantly dressed  and  lighted,  and  no  carriages  are  allowed  to  enter  the  street. 
—  On  Ascension  Day  the  festival  of  the  Madonna  of  the  baths  of  Scafati 
(p.  160)  takes  place  near  Pompeii.  —  On  15th  Aug.  is  celebrated  the  festival 
of  Capodimonte.  —  On  the  last  Sunday  in  August  the  Fishermen's  Festival 
at  S.  Lucia  (p.  34)  presents  many  interesting  scenes.  —  The  so-called 
Ottobrate  (excursions  with  gaily  decorated  horses  and  carriages)  take  place 
every  Sun.  and  Thurs.  in  October.  —  The  Horse  Races,  which  take  place 
on  the  Tuesday  and  Thursday  after  Easter,  in  the  Campo  di  Marte,  are 
practically  another  great  popular  festival,  at  which  the  Neapolitan  nobility 
appear  in  handsome  four-horse  drags  and  coaches.  —  An  enormous  crowd 
assembles  in  the  cemeteries  on  2nd  Nov.  (All  Souls'  Day).  —  Other  festi- 
vities of  a  more  strictly  ecclesiastical  character  are  celebrated  at  Christ- 
mas, Easter,  on  Ascension  Day,  on  the  festivals  of  Corpus  Christi  (Fete  de 
Dieu),  St.  Anthony,  and  above  all  on  that  of  St.  Januarius  in  May,  Sep- 
tember, and  December.  The  Good  Friday  procession  at  Sorrento  (p.  148) 
and  the  procession  on  Corpus  Christi  Day  at  Torre  del  Greco  (p.  110)  are 
particularly  worth  seeing. 

The  Festival  of  the  Constitution  (la  Festa  dello  Statuto),  of  more 
recent  origin ,  is  celebrated  throughout  Italy  on  the  first  Sunday  of  June. 
In  the  forenoon  military  parade  in  the  Largo  Vittoria  at  the  Villa  Nazio- 
nale ;  in  the  evening  illumination  of  public  buildings.  The  King's  Birth- 
day (March  14th)  is  also  celebrated  by  a  military  parade  at  the  Villa 
Nazionale. 

The  Carnival,  which,  however,  does  not  take  place  every  year,  is  seen 
to  best  advantage  in  the  Toledo  and  near  the  Royal  Palace.  On  the  after- 
noon of  Ash  Wednesday  merry  entertainments  take  place  in  the  trattorie 
at  Posilipo  and  the  other  environs. 

The  drawing  of  the  Tombola  or  Lotto,  which  takes  place  every  Sat. 
at  4  p.m.,  in  the  Via  Mezzncannone  (PI.  F,  4,  5;  p.  47),  always  attracts  a 
large  concourse  of  spectators. 


Disposition  of  Time.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      29 

f.    Duration  of  Stay  and  Disposition  of  Time.     Guides. 

With  respect  to  the  duration  of  the  visitor's  stay  it  is  difficult  to 
offer  a  suggestion;  the  taste  and  inclination  of  the  individual  must  here 
more  than  almost  anywhere  else  decide  the  question.  Suffice  it  to  ob- 
serve that  within  a  period  of  ten  days  all  the  most  interesting  points 
may  he  visited,  whilst  many  months  may  be  delightfully  spent  in  explor- 
ing the  incomparable  beauties  of  the  environs.  Where  time  is  limited, 
it  should  be  devoted  almost  exclusively  to  the  latter,  as  the  town  con- 
tains few  objects  of  interest,  with  the  exception  of  the  Villa  Nazionale, 
the  Aquarium,  the  Museum,  the  Triumphal  Arch  in  the  Castel  Novo,  the 
Porta  Capuana,  and  one  or  two  of  the  churches,  besides  a  walk  by  the 
Harbour  and  the  view  from  the  belfry  of  S.  Martino.  Choice  of  season, 
see  p.  xxiv. 

The  Chief  Sights' of  the  city  may  be  seen  hastily  in  3-4  days.  The 
mornings  may  be  devoted  to  the  churches,  the  middle  of  the  day  to  the 
Museum,  and  the  afternoons  to  walks  or  drives  in  the  neighbourhood. 
The  evening  may  then  be  spent  at  the  Villa  Nazionale  or  in  the  theatre. 
The  following  are  specially  worthy  of  mention:  — 

""Museo  Nazionale  (p.  55),  daily  9-3  o'clock,  in  winter  10-4,  admission 
1  fr.,  Sundays  until  1  p.m.  gratis. 

Museo  Filangieri  (Pal.  Cuomo ;  p.  53),  Tues.  &  Sat.  10.30-2  free ;  other 
times  'J2-1  fr. 

Museum  and  Church  of  S.  Martino  (p.  83),  with  *View,  10-4,  admission 
1  fr.,  Sun.  9-2  free. 

"Aquarium  (p.  33),  adm.  daily  2  fr.,  in  July  and  August  1  fr.,  on  Sun- 
day and  holiday  afternoons  half-price ;  season-tickets  at  the  office. 

Catacombs  (p.  80)  daily,  admission  1  fr. 

Palaces:  Reale  (p.  35),  Capodimonte  (p.  81). 

Churches:  '"Cathedral,  best  seen  about  noon  (p.  51);  "Sta.  Chiara  (p.  44) ; 
'S.  Domenico,  7-11  a.m.  (p.  45);  'Monte  Oliveto  (p.  43);  "L'lncoronata, 
early  in  the  morning  (p.  42) ;  Cloisters  of  S.  Severino  (p.  47) ;  S.  Gio- 
vanni (p.  50);  S.  Maria  del  Carmine  (p.  39);  S.  Lorenzo  (p.  54);  S.  Paolo 
Maggiore  (p.  54). 

Views:  "Camaldoli  (p.  90),  "Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo  (p.  85),  "Via  Tasso 
(p.  85).  —  "S.  Martino  (p.  83).  —  "Villa  Nazionale,  in  the  afternoon  or 
(in  summer)  evening  (p.  32). 

Most  of  the  Excursions  in  the  Environs  (RE.  4-11)  may  be  made 
from  Naples  in  one  day,  but  both  time  and  money  may  often  be  econo- 
mised if  the  traveller  combines  several  of  them  so  as  to  avoid  the  ne- 
cessity of  returning  to  Naples  every  evening.  Those  who  intend  to 
explore  the  surrounding  scenery  should  therefore  give  np  their  rooms  at 
Naples,  but  leave  behind  them  all  superfluous  luggage,  in  order  that 
they  may  start  on  their  tour  unfettered.  In  making  these  excursions  it 
is  generally  advantageous  to  travel  as  a  member  of  a  party  of  3-4  per- 
sons, by  whom  carriage  and  boat  fares,  fees,  and  other  expenses  are  shared. 
In  this  case  too  more  favourable  terms  may  be  obtained  at  hotels 
(comp.  p.  xix). 

Small  Change  is  even  more  frequently  required  in  the  environs  of 
Naples  than  in  the  city  itself.  Contributions  are  levied  on  the  traveller 
on  every  possible  occasion,  whether  for  admission  to  a  point  of  view, 
or  for  leave  to  cross  a  field,  or  for  services  rendered.  An  abundant  supply 
of  small  silver  and  copper  should  therefore  be  procured  at  a  money- 
changer's (p.  23)  before  starting. 

A  week  or  a  fortnight  may  be  very  pleasantly  spent  as  follows  :  — 

Pozzuoli,  Baiae,  Capo  Miseno  (R.  4) I-IV2    day- 

Procida  and  Ischia  (R.  5) IV2      n 

Ascent  of  Mt.  Vesuvius  (R.  7),  Herculaneum  (p.  109).      1  ,, 

Pompeii  (R.  8) 1/i-l  ,, 

Castellanimare,  Sorrento,  Capri  (R.  9) 2-3  ,, 

Cava,  Paestum,  Salerno,  Amalfi  (R.  10) 3-4  „ 

Caserta  and  Capua   (pp.  7-10) 1  ,, 

C/2-13     days. 


30      Route  3.  NAPLES.  History. 

A  visit  to  the  islands,  especially  those  of  Procida  and  Ischia,  should 
not  be  undertaken  in  winter  unless  the  weather  he  calm  and  settled. 

Gommissionnaires  charge  6  fr.  a  day,  or  for  a  single  walk  1  fr. ;  hut 
travellers  who  intend  making  purchases  had  better  dispense  with  their  ser- 
vices. Some  of  the  best  guides  are  as  a  rule  attached  to  the  hotels.  They 
organise  also  excursions  in  the  environs,  e.  g.  to  Amalfl,  Ravello,  ana 
Psestum,  in  two  days  (50  fr.  each  person,  including  quarters  for  the  night). 
Similar  excursions  are  arranged  by  the  well-known  firm  of  Thos.  Cook  <fc  Son 
(agent,  Jl.  Fserber,  a  Swiss;  office  in  the  Piazza  dei  Martiri52,  PI.  D,  E, 
7 ;  p.  40),  and  are  now  much  in  vogue,  especially  among  the  English  tourists. 
Enquiries  as  to  fares,  etc.,  should  be  made  at  the  office.  The  traveller 
necessarily  surrenders  much  of  his  independence  in  these  excursions.  Messrs. 
Cook  are  the  proprietors   of  the  Ferrovia  Funicolare   del  Vesuvio  (p.  112). 

'  Vedi  Napoli  e  pox  mori  I ' 

Naples  (N.  lat.  40°  51')  ,  the  capital  of  the  former  kingdom  of 
Naples,  now  of  a  province,  the  seat  of  a  university,  of  anarch- 
bishop,  and  of  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  10th  Italian  army- 
corps,  with  527,600  inhab.  and  9400  men  garrison,  is  the  most 
populous  town  in  Italy,  and  occupies  one  of  the  most  beautiful  situat- 
ions in  the  world,  at  the  foot  and  on  the  slope  of  several  hills  rising 
in  an  amphitheatre  on  the  \V.  side  of  the  Bay  of  Naples.  The  magni- 
ficent bay  has  from  the  most  ancient  times  been  the  object  of  enthus- 
iastic admiration,  and  it  is  annually  visited  by  thousands  of  strangers 
in  quest  of  enjoyment  or  health.  In  historical  and  artistic  interest 
this  part  of  the  Italian  peninsula  is  singularly  deficient.  The 
dearth  of  handsome  buildings  and  indigenous  works  of  art  creates  a 
void,  for  which  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii  with  their  matchless 
treasures  of  antiquity  alone  in  some  measure  compensate.  Nature, 
it  would  appear ,  has  so  bountifully  lavished  her  gifts  on  this 
favoured  spot,  that  the  energy  and  strength  of  the  most  powerful 
nations  have  invariably  succumbed  to  its  alluring  influence.  Greeks, 
Oscans,  Romans,  Goths,  Byzantines,  Normans,  Germans,  and  Spa- 
niards have  in  succession  been  masters  of  the  place ;  yet  it  has 
rarely  attained  even  a  transient  reputation  in  the  annals  of  politics, 
art,  or  literature. 

The  History  of  theCityof  Naples  extends  back  to  a  very  remote  age.  The 
origin  and  name  of  the  city  are  Greek.  About  the  year  B.C.  1056  jEolians  from 
Chalcis  in  Euboea  founded  the  colony  of  Kyme,  Lat.  Cumae,  on  a  rocky 
eminence  in  the  bay  of  Puteoli,  which  soon  became  a  powerful  and  pros- 
perous commercial  town.  From  Curnee  the  colony  of  Phaleron  or  Parthe- 
nope  (named  after  the  tomb  of  a  Siren  of  that  name,  Plin.  H.  N.  iii.  5) 
appears  to  have  emanated  at  a  very  early  period,  and  to  have  been  at  va- 
rious times  re-inforced  by  immigrants  from  Greece,  who  founded  the  Nea- 
polis  (or  new  city),  whilst  Parthenope,  the  portion  erected  by  the  original 
colonists,  was  named  Palaeopolis  (old  city).  The  latter  was  probably  situated 
on  the  Pizzofaleone  (p.  34),  whereas  the  site  of  Neapolis  is  bounded  towards 
the  E.  by  the  present  Castel  Capuano  (PI.  G,  3;  p.  49),  to  the  N.  by  the 
Strada  Orticello  (PI.  F,  G,  3),  to  the  W.  by  the  Strada  S.  Sebastiano  (PI.  F,  4), 
and  to  the  S.  by  the  declivity  towards  the  present  harbour,  between  S.  Gio- 
vanni Maggiore  (PI.  F,  5)  and  S.  Maria  del  Carmine  (PI.  H,  4).  This 
distinction  was  maintained  till  the  conquest  of  Palaeopolis  by  the  Romans, 
B.C.  326.  After  that  period  Naples  remained  faithful  to  Rome,  both  in  the 
wars  against  Pyrrhus  and  against  Hannibal,  and  owing  to  the  beauty  of  its 
situation  it  soon  became  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Roman  magnates.    Lu- 


Topography.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      31 

cullus  possessed  gardens  here  on  the  Posilipo  and  the  hill  of  Pizzofalcone, 
where,  in  A.  D.  476,  Romulus  Augustulus,  the  last  feeble  monarch  of  the 
Western  Empire,  breathed  his  last.  Augustus  frequently  resided  at  Naples, 
and  Virgil  composed  some  of  his  most  beautiful  poetry  here.  The  emperors 
Tiberius,  Claudius,  Nero,  Titus,  and  Hadrian  were  among  the  chief  bene- 
factors of  the  city,  which  continued  to  enjoy  its  municipal  freedom  and 
its  Greek  constitution.  It  suffered  fearfully  during  the  wars  of  the  bar- 
barian immigration.  In  536  it  was  taken  by  storm  by  Belisarius,  and 
again  in  543  by  the  Goths  under  Totilas.  The  city  soon  threw  off  the 
Byzantine  supremacy,  and  under  its  doge  or  'duca1  maintained  its  inde- 
pendence against  the  Lombard  princes,  until  after  a  long  siege  in  1130  it 
at  length  succumbed  to  the  Normans  under  Roger.  Frederick  II.  founded 
the  university  (1224),  but  seldom  made  Naples  his  residence.  It  was  con- 
stituted the  capital  of  the  kingdom  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou  (1265-85)  and 
was  greatly  extended  by  subsequent  princes,  especially  by  Ferdinand  I.  of 
Aragon  (1458-94),  the  viceroy  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  (1532-53),  and  Charles  III. 
of  Bourbon  (1748-59).  —  Since  the  annexation  of  Naples  to  the  kingdom 
of  Italy  the  population  has  remained  almost  stationary  (1860:  517,000). 
The  city  can  boast  of  almost  no  Grfeco-Roman  antiquities  (p.  53),  but 
(besides  the  churches)  it  possesses  a  fragment  of  the  city-wall,  five  forts 
(Castello  S.  Elmo ,  dell'  Ovo,  Nuovo,  del  Carmine,  Capuano),  and  four 
gates  (Porta  del  Carmine,  Alba,  Nolana,  and  Capuana)  of  mediaeval  con- 
struction. 

The  City  is  divided  into  two  unequal  parts  by  the  heights  of 
Oapodimonte,  S.  Elmo,  and  Pizzofalcone ,  which  terminate  in  the 
narrow  ridge  surmounted  by  the  Castello  dell' Ovo.  To  the  S.  E.  of 
Capodimonte,  and  eastwards  as  far  as  the  Sebeto,  lies  the  greater 
and  most  ancient  part  of  Naples,  now  the  business  quarter,  inter- 
sected from  N.  to  S.  by  the  Toledo  (now  Via  di  Roma),  the  main 
street.  The  architecture  of  this  part  of  Naples ,  the  narrow  dingy 
streets,  the  high  and  narrow  houses  with  balconies  in  front  of  every 
window ,  are  far  from  attractive.  The  population  here  is  densely 
crowded,  and  it  is  now  the  anxious  endeavour  of  the  authorities  to 
remedy  the  consequent  physical  and  social  evils  (to  which  the  ter- 
rible cholera  epidemic  of  1884  again  bore  sad  witness) ,  by  the 
construction  of  new  streets  ('sventramento',  i.e.  cutting  up)  and 
commodious  dwellings.  A  hundred  million  francs  are  to  be  devoted 
to  this  purpose  by  the  town  and  the  state  in  equal  proportions.  The 
construction  of  spacious  and  airy  quarters  has  meanwhile  gone  in 
advance  of  the  removal  of  the  narrow  and  unhealthy  streets.  — 
The  western  and  smaller  quarter  of  the  city,  in  which  nearly  all 
the  principal  hotels  are  situated,  extends  westward  from  the  Pizzo- 
falcone along  the  coast  and  the  mountain-slopes.  An  entirely  new 
quarter  is  being  built  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  but,  like  the  other 
new  quarters,  is  of  no  interest  to  the  tourist. 

The  length  of  Naples  from  the  Mergellina  (p.  86)  to  the  bar- 
racks at  the  mouth  of  the  Sebeto  is  3  M.,  the  breadth  from  Ca- 
podimonte to  the  Castel  dell'  Ovo  2  M.  The  squares  are  still  ge- 
nerally called  Larghi ,  though  sometimes  Piazze ;  the  principal 
streets  are  called  Strade,  the  cross-streets  Vichi ;  the  narrow  lanes 
ascending  the  hills,  and  generally  inaccessible  to  carriages,  Calate 
or  Salite ,  or  when  so  precipitous  as  to  require  steps,  Gradoni  or 
Rampe.     The  streets  are  all  well  paved,  except  as  regards  accom- 


32     Route  3.  NAPLES.  1 '.  Side  of  the  City 

modation  for  foot-passengers.  In  1885  a  large  aqueduct,  iheAcqua 
di  Serino,  was  opened,  supplying  the  city  with  water  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Avellino  (see  pp.  81,  175). 

Naples  is  one  of  the  noisiest  cities  in  Europe.  The  clatter  of 
wheels  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and  night ,  the  cracking  of  whips, 
braying  of  donkeys,  and  shrill  shouting  of  hawkers  ,  render  Naples 
a  most  distasteful  place,  especially  to  those  whose  stay  is  limited. 
To  these  annoyances  are  added  the  insolent  importunities  of  dri- 
vers, guides,  street-vendors,  beggars,  etc.,  who  often  combine  the 
most  cringing  manners  with  the  grossest  attempts  at  extortion. 
Some  travellers,  especially  if  there  be  ladies  in  the  party,  will  find 
the  constant  use  of  cabs  the  only  sure  method  of  escaping  annoy- 
ance ;  but  those  who  can  adapt  themselves  to  the  manners  of  the 
place  will  find  an  abundant  source  of  interest  in  the  life  and  bustle 
of  the  streets  (comp.  p.  27). 

Our  description  of  the  sights  is  arranged  in  topographical  order, 
and  is  divided  as  follows  :  — 

I.  The  Side  of  the  City  next  the  Sea,  from  the  Villa  Nazionale 
(PI.  C,  D,  7)  eastwards,  round  the  Pizzofalcone,  by  S.  Lu- 
cia, the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito,  and  the  Piazza  del  Municipio, 
and  along  the  quay  to  the  S.  E.  angle  of  the  town  (Pl.H,  4). 
II.   The  Toledo,  with  its  side-streets,  as  far  as  the  Museum. 

III.  The  Old  Town,  to  the  E.  of  the  Toledo. 

IV.  The  Museum. 

V.   The  Higher  Quarters :    Capodimonte ,   Corso   Vittorio  Ema- 

nuele,  S.  Martino,  and  the  Castel  S.  Elmo. 
VI.  The  Posilipo,  and  other  points  in  the  immediate  environs. 
Camaldoli. 
The  traveller  may  again  be  reminded  here  that,  if  his  time  is 
limited,  he  had  better  disregard  most  of  the  sights  within  the  town. 

I.  Side  of  the  City  next  the  Sea. 
The  *Villa  Nazionale,  generally  called  La  Villa  (PI.  C,D,  7),  is 
a  beautiful  pleasure-ground,  laid  out  in  1780,  and  several  times 
extended  since.  It  is  bounded  on  the  side  next  the  sea  by  the  broad 
Via  Caracciolo  and  on  the  inland  side  by  the  Riviera  di  Chiaja,  and 
may  be  regarded  as  the  central  point  of  the  strangers'  quarter. 
The  grounds  are  arranged  chiefly  in  the  Italian  style,  and  are  em- 
bellished with  trees  of  the  most  various  descriptions,  among 
which  many  palms  have  been  planted  within  the  last  few  years. 
Near  the  E.  entrance  is  a  large  Antique  Oranite  Basin  from  Psestum, 
brought  from  Salerno,  and  deposited  here  in  1825  to  replace  the 
celebrated  group  of  the  Farnese  Bull,  which  was  then  removed  from 
this  spot  to  the  Museum  (p.  60).  To  the  left,  farther  on,  is  the 
Aquarium  (see  p.  33).  In  the  centre  of  the  promenade,  the  most 
frequented  spot,  where  the  band  plays,  are  a  cafe'  and  a  restaurant. 


next  the  sea.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.     33 

Here  also  rise  a  statue  of  the  historian  Giambattista  Vico  (d.  1744) 
and  one  of  P.  Colletta,  the  liberal-minded  Neapolitan  general, 
minister-of-war,  and  historian  (1775-1831),  and  a  bust  of  Errico 
Alvino,  the  architect.  The  gardens  also  contain  small  temples  in 
honour  of  Virgil  and  Tasso ;  a  statue  of  Thalberg,  the  pianist,  who 
died  at  Naples  in  1871 ;  and,  on  the  side  next  the  sea,  two  hand- 
some fountains. 

The  white  building  in  the  middle  of  the  Villa  contains  a  large 
**Aquarium,  opened  in  1874,  and  belonging  to  the  'Zoological  Sta- 
tion'. The  aquarium  is  entered  from  the  E.  side  (admission,  see 
p.  29;  catalogue,  50  c,  illustrated,  1  fr.). 

The  Neapolitan  Aquarium  contains  such  an  abundant  stock  of  curious 
marine  animals  of  every  description  that  it  is  perhaps  the  most  inter- 
esting establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  world ;  and  the  wonderful  variety 
of  animate  existence  in  the  Mediterranean  gives  it  a  great  advantage  over 
aquaria  drawing  their  main  supplies  from  more  northern  waters.  Among 
the  contents  are  6-8  varieties  of  cuttle-fish  (the  feeding  of  the  large  Oc- 
topus is  interesting) ,  a  number  of  electric  rays  (which  visitors  are  per- 
mitted to  touch  so  as  to  experience  the  shock  from  which  the  fish  derives 
its  name),  numerous  beautifully  coloured  fish  of  the  Mediterranean,  a 
great  many  different  kinds  of  living  coral,  beautiful  medusae  and  crested 
blubbers,  many  extraordinary  -  looking   crabs   and  crayfish,   pipe-fish,   etc. 

The  Zoological  Station  was  established  by  the  German  naturalist 
Dr.  Dohrn  in  1872-74  for  the  purpose  of  facilitating  a  thorough  scientific 
investigation  of  the  animal  and  vegetable  world  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea. 
The  greater  part  of  the  expense  was  borne  by  Dr.  Dohrn  himself,  but  the 
German  government  contributed  100,000  marks  to  the  building-fund  be- 
sides a  large  annual  subsidy  since  1880,  and  the  naturalists  of  Great  Bri- 
tain presented  the  institution  with  a  sum  of  1000  I.  Great  Britain ,  Ger- 
many, Italy,  Holland,  Belgium,  Switzerland,  Austria- Hungary,  Russia, 
Spain,  and  the  United  States  all  pay  stipends  for  the  privilege  of  sending 
naturalists  to  make  use  of  the  advantages  of  the  institution.  The  new 
buildings  which  have  been  erected,  with  assistance  from  the  Italian  go- 
vernment, will  permit  of  an  extension  of  the  activity  of  the  institution. 

The  resident  staff  of  the  establishment  consists  of  Dr.  Dohrn  himself, 
eight  or  ten  permanent  naturalists,  and  upwards  of  twenty  assistants  of 
various  kinds.  A  small  steam-yacht,  a  steam-launch,  and  a  flotilla  of  sailing 
and  rowing-boats  are  maintained  for  dredging,  and  the  other  equipments  are 
also  on  a  scale  of  great  completeness.  About  600  foreign  naturalists  have 
already  prosecuted  their  investigations  here.  The  institution  publishes 
extensive  periodical  proceedings,  sends  microscopic  and  other  preparations 
to  all  the  leading  museums  and  laboratories  in  Europe,  and  in  various 
ways  has  fairly  asserted  itself  as  the  central  point  for  the  study  of  marine 
biology.  Similar  stations  have  been  founded  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  but 
none  can  compare  in  size  or  importance  with  the  original  institution  at 
Naples.  There  are  now  zoological  stations  at  Plymouth,  Liverpool,  Edin- 
burgh, Sebastopol,  Trieste,  Villafranca,  Cette,  Marseilles,  Banyuls,  Arca- 
chon,  Roscoff,  Heligoland,  on  the  Dutch  coast,  in  Sweden,  Norway,  Syd- 
ney, two  in  North  America,  and  one  in  Japan. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  Villa  is  the  Piazza  Vmberto  (Pl.B,  7), 
in  which  the  handsome  Orand  Hotel  (p.  19)  is  conspicuous.  Farther 
on  is  the  Mergellina  (p.  86). 

The  Villa  is  rarely  deserted  by  promenadeTS  at  any  hour ;  but 
the  busiest  and  gayest  scenes  occur  when  the  daily  concerts  (gratis) 
take  place:  viz.  in  the  colder  season  2-4,  in  summer  9-11.  The 
Via  Caracciolo   is  then  the  corso  of  the  fashionable  world.     The 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  3 


34      Route  3.  NAPLES.  /.  Side  of  the  City 

crowd  reaches  its  height  towards  evening  on  Sundays  and  holidays, 
when  the  roads  are  thronged  with  carriages  and  the  gardens  alive 
with  foot-passengers. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Villa  extends  the  Largo  della  Vittokia  (PI. 
D,  7),  whence  the  Via  Calabritto  runs  N.  to  the  Piazza  de'  Martiri 
(see  p.  40).  The  Via  Partenope  (PI.  E,  7),  a  handsome  quay,  ex- 
tends hence  towards  the  E.  along  the  coast,  parallel  to  the  Strada 
Chiatamone,  which  runs  round  the  base  of  the  Fizzofalcone,  a  spur 
of  the  hill  of  S.  Elmo,  entirely  covered  with  buildings  and  walls. 

From  the  S.  end  of  the  Pizzofalcone  run  out  an  embankment 
and  bridge,  connecting  it  with  a  small  rocky  island,  the  Megaris 
of  Pliny.  On  this  island  rises  the  Castello  dell'  Ovo ,  which  in  its 
present  form  dates  from  the  time  of  the  viceroy  Don  Pedro  de  To- 
ledo (1532-53).    The  name  is  due  to  its  oval  shape. 

William  I.  began  to  erect  the  fort  in  1154,  but  the  completion  of  his 
design  fell  to  Frederick  II.,  who  used  the  edifice  as  a  place  of  safety  for 
his  treasures.  Charles  I.  enlarged  the  castle  and  frequently  resided  there. 
Robert  the  Wise  (1309)  caused  the  chapel  to  be  adorned  with  frescoes  by 
Giotto,  and  superintended  the  work  in  person,  but  of  these  no  trace  is 
left.  Here  Charles  III.  of  Durazzo  (1381)  kept  Queen  Johanna  I.  prisoner, 
and  was  himself  besieged.  In  1495  Charles  VIII.  of  France  captured  the 
castle,  and  under  Ferdinand  II.  it  was  dismantled.  It  is  now  chiefly  used 
as  a  prison.  Visitors  are  usually  admitted  without  challenge  by  the  sen- 
tries, but  the  interior  is  of  little  interest.  The  new  buildings  on  the  N.E, 
side  were  erected  to  accommodate  the  fishermen  and  sailors  whose  pre- 
vious dwellings  were  demolished  to  make  room  for  the  new  quays. 

The  landing-place  of  th3  steamer  to  Capri  (p.  152)  is  at  the  Castel 
delF  Ovo. 

Farther  on  we  reach  the  Strada  di  S.  Ltjcia  (PI.  E,  F,  7),  once 
a  dirty  street,  but  since  1846  enlarged  and  converted  into  a  broad 
and  pleasant  quay,  now  being  much  widened  towards  the  sea. 
Scenes  of  Neapolitan  life  may  be  witnessed  here  in  perfection.  The 
female  members  of  the  community  are  seen  working  in  the  open 
air,  going  through  their  toilette,  and  performing  various  unpleasing 
acts  of  attention  to  their  children ,  regardless  of  the  public  gaze. 
The  children  often  run  about  quite  naked.  On  the  side  next  the  sea 
the  oyster-stalls  are  established ,  where  sea-urchins  ,  crabs ,  and 
other  delicacies  ,  so  expressively  called  frutti  di  mare  by  the  Nea- 
politans, are  also  sold  (comp.  Introd.,  p.  xxvii).  The  terrace  below, 
which  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  is  adorned  with  a  fountain 
with  figures  by  Domenico  d'Auria  and  Giovanni  da  Nola.  On  sum- 
mer-evenings, especially  on  Sundays,  this  spot  is  densely  crowded, 
and  presents  a  highly  characteristic  picture  of  Neapolitan  life.  There 
is  also  a  favourite  sulphureous  spring  here  (p.  28). 

At  the  N.  end  of  S.  Lucia  is  a  fountain,  whence  we  ascend  to 
the  left  by  the  Strada  del  Gigantk  ,  a  street  named  after  an 
ancient  colossal  statue  of  Jupiter  once  placed  here.  To  the  right, 
farther  on ,  we  look  down  on  the  coal-magazines  of  the  arsenal 
(p.  38).  In  a  straight' direction  we  observe  Fort  8.  Elmo  rising 
above  the  town,  and  we  soon  reach  the  — 


next  the  sea.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      35 

Piazza  del  Plbbiscito  (PI.  E,  6),  which  is  embellished  with 
a  large  fountain.  A  band  sometimes  plays  here  in  summer ,  in 
the  evening.  On  the  right  is  the  Royal  Palace,  opposite  to  us  is 
the  Prefettura  di  Napoli,  with  shops  in  part  of  the  ground-floor; 
on  the  "W.  side,  which  forms  a  semicircle,  is  the  church  of  S.  Fran- 
cesco with  its  dome  and  arcades ;  on  the  fourth  side  is  the  Com- 
mandant's Residence,  formerly  the  palace  of  the  prince  of  Salerno. 
—  In  front  of  the  church  of  S.  Francesco  are  two  Equestrian  Sta- 
tues of  Neapolitan  kings,  both  in  Roman  attire :  on  the  right 
Charles  III.,  on  the  left  Ferdinand  I.  of  Bourbon;  the  two  horses 
and  the  statue  of  Charles  are  by  Canova,  that  of  Ferdinand,  by  Call. 

The  handsome  church  of  S.  Francesco  di  Paola,  an  imitation  of 
the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  was  constructed  by  Ferdinand  I.  from  de- 
signs by  P.  Bianchi  in  1817-31.  The  Ionic  vestibule  is  supported 
by  six  columns  and  two  buttresses. 

The  Interior  (open  till  about  noon)  contains  thirty  Corinthian  columns 
of  marble  from  Mondragone ,  which  support  the  dome.  The  high -altar, 
transferred  hither  from  the  church  of  the  Apostles,  is  entirely  inlaid  with 
jasper  and  lapis  lazuli ;  the  two  pillars  at  the  sides  are  of  rare  Egyptian 
breccia  from  S.  Severino.  The  gallery  above  is  for  the  use  of  the  royal  family. 
The  statues  and  pictures  are  by  modern  masters.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance : 
St.  Athanasius  by  Angelo  Salaro;  Death  of  Joseph,  Camillo  Ouerra  of  Naples; 
St.  Augustine,  a  statue  by  Tommaso  Arnaud  of  Naples  ;  Madonna  della  Con- 
cezione,  Casparo  Landi;  St.  Mark,  a  statue  by  Fabris  of  Venice;  St.  Nicho- 
las, Natale  Carta  of  Sicily ;  St.  John,  a  statue  by  Tenerani.  In  the  choir : 
St.  Francis  di  Paola  resuscitating  a  youth,  Camuccini ;  St.  Matthew,  a  statue 
by  Finelli;  Last  Communion  of  St.  Ferdinand  of  Castile,  Pietro  Benvenuti  of 
Florence;  St.  Luke,  a  statue  by  Antonio  Call  of  Sicily;  St.  Ambrose,  by  Tito 
Angelini  of  Naples;  Death  of  St.  Andrea  da  Avellino ,  Tommaso  de  Vivo; 
St.  Chrysostom,  a  statue  by  Gennaro  Call. 

The  Palazzo  Reale  (PL  E,  F,  6),  or  royal  palace,  designed  by 
the  Roman  Domenico  Fontana,  was  begun  in  1600  under  the 
viceroy  Count  de  Lemos ,  burned  down  in  1837,  and  restored 
between  that  year  and  1841.  The  facade,  185yds.  ft.  in  length, 
exhibits  in  its  three  stories  the  Doric  and  Ionic  styles  combined ; 
most  of  the  arches  of  the  basement,  however,  are  built  up  for  the 
sake  of  increasing  the  strength  of  the  building.  The  eight  marble 
statues  in  the  niches  on  the  facade  (executed  1885-88)  represent 
the  Neapolitan  dynasties  of  the  last  eight  hundred  years :  from  left 
to  right,  beginning  at  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando ,  Roger  of  Nor- 
mandy, Frederick  II.  of  Hohenstaufen ,  Charles  I.  of  Anjou,  Al- 
phonso  I.,  Charles  V..  Charles  III.  (Bourbon),  Joachim  Murat,  and 
Victor  Emmanuel. 

Interior  (open  on  Snn.  and  Thurs.).  Visitors  apply  to  the  porter  (50  a), 
who  conducts  them  to  the  office  of  the  Intendant  in  the  palace  (daily  10-12). 
Here  they  receive  a  permesso  for  six  persons,  which  is  available  also  for  the 
palaces  of  Capodimonte,  Caserta,  and  the  park  of  Astroni,  and  must  be  shown 
at  each  place  to  the  porter.    Attendant's  fee  1  fr. 

The  visitor  is  first  conducted  to  the  "Garden  Terrace,  which  affords 
a  fine  view  of  the  harbour  and  the  arsenal  immediately  below.  In  the 
centre  is  a  handsome  marble  table.  —  The  magnificent  "Grand  Staircase, 
constructed  entirely  of  white  marble ,  and  adorned  with  reliefs  and  sta- 
tues,  dates   from  1651.  —  On  the  side  towards   the   piazza  are  situated  a 

3* 


36      Route  3.  NAPLES.  I.   Side  of  the  City 

small  Theatre  and  a  superb  Dining  Room.  —  Beyond  these  is  the  "Throne 
Room,  gorgeously  furnished  with  crimson  velvet  embroidered  with  gold, 
the  embroidery  having  been  executed  at  the  extensive  poor-house  in  1818. 
Above  are  gilded  figures  in  relief,  representing  the  different  provinces  of 
the  kingdom.  —  The  rooms  also  contain  large  porcelain  vases  from  Sevres 
and  Meissen  (Dresden  china) ;  an  antique  bust  of  Bacchus  and  a  small  bust 
of  Hercules,  both  found  at  Herculaneum;  a  bust  of  Marcus  Aurelius; 
tapestry;  and  lastly  a  number  of  pictures.  Among  the  last  are:  Titian, 
Pier  Luigi  Farnese  (1547);  Schidone,  Carita;  Lod.  Carracci,  John  the  Bap- 
tist; Ouercino,  St.  Joseph;  M.  Caravaggio ,  Christ  in  the  Temple,  Be- 
trothal of  St.  Catharine,  Orpheus ;  L.  Giordano,  The  archangel  Gabriel. 
There  are  also  several  works  by  Netherlandish  masters :  Quintin  Massys  (?), 
Usurer;  Van  Dyck,  Portrait;  Vervloet,  Cathedral  at  Palermo,  Market  in 
Venice;  two  good  portraits,  by  unknown  masters,  etc.  The  Adoration  of 
the  Magi,  sometimes  ascribed  to  Jan  van  Eyck  and  sometimes  to  Donzelli, 
a  supposed  pupil  of  Zingaro,  was  once  considered  a  very  important  work, 
but  has  been  treated  slightingly  by  modern  criticism.  The  pictures  by 
modern  Italian  masters  are  of  no  great  merit. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  palace,  which  is  connected  here  by  a  wing 
with  the  Theatre  of  S.  Carlo ,  is  a  small  garden  enclosed  by  a 
railing,  containing  a  Statue  of  Italia,  erected  in  1864  in  commem- 
oration of  the  plebiscite  of  21st  Oct.,  1860,  which  added  the 
kingdom  of  Naples  to  the  dominions  of  Victor  Emmanuel. 

The  small  piazza  which  adjoins  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito  here 
is  named  Ptazza  S.  Ferdinando  (PI.  E,  6),  after  the  opposite 
church.  This  is  the  starting-point  of  several  of  the  chief  tramway 
and  omnibus  lines  (p.  22),  and  there  is  also  a  large  cab-stand  here. 
To  the  left  diverge  the  Strada  di  Chiaja  and  the  Toledo,  the  prin- 
cipal street  in  Naples  (comp.  p.  40). 

We  now  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Stbada  S.  Cabxo,  in  which, 
to  the  left  is  the  S.  entrance  to  the  new  G-alleria  Umberto  I.,  and 
to  the  right  the  principal  facade  of  the  Teatro  San  Carlo. 

The  *Galleria  TJmberto  I.  (PI.  E,  F,  6)  was  built  in  1887-90 
after  the  plans  of  Di  Mauro  of  Rome,  and  is  said  to  have  cost  22 
million  francs.  Its  exterior  is  inferior  to  the  Galleria  Vittoiio 
Emanuele  at  Milan,  as  two  churches  and  several  private  houses 
have  been  incorporated  in  it,  but  in  other  respects  it  rivals  the  Mi- 
lan gallery.  The  shorter  nave ,  to  which  the  main  portal  in  the 
Strada  S.  Carlo,  adorned  with  statues  and  a  relief  representing  the 
Olympic  deities,  gives  acoess,  is  133  yds.  long;  the  longer  nave, 
stretching  from  the  Toledo  to  the  Municipio,  is  160  yds.  long.  Each 
is  16  yds.  wide  and  125  ft.  high;  and  at  their  intersection  is  an 
octagon,  40  yds.  in  diameter,  above  which  rises  a  dome  in  glass  and 
iron  to  the  height  of  185  ft.  Below  the  dome  are  angels  in  copper. 
The  interior  is  gaily  adorned  with  stucco  and  gilding,  and  is  lighted 
at  night  by  electricity.  At  No.  8  in  the  gallery  (1st  floor;  left)  an  ela- 
borate Presepe  (p.  83)  has  been  erected,  under  the  directions  of  the  anti- 
quarian Cr.  Varolii ;  it  is  said  to  have  once  belonged  to  king  Charles 
III.    In  the  octagon  is  a  large  Cafe. 

The  Teatro  San  Carlo  (PI.  E,  F,  6)  was  founded  by  Charles 
III.  in  1737,  and  erected  by  the  Neapolitan  architect  Anyelo  Ca- 


next  the  sea.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      37 

rasale  from  designs  by  the  Sicilian  Giovanni  Medrano.  The  in- 
terior -was  destroyed  by  Are  in  1816,  but  has  been  restored  in 
harmony  with  the  original  plan.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  opera- 
houses  in  Italy,  and  many  of  the  celebrated  compositions  of  Ros- 
sini, Bellini,  and  Donizetti  were  performed  here  for  the  first  time. 
The  chief  facade,  resting  on  an  arcade,  and  surmounted  by  a  series 
of  columns ,  and  the  side  next  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando  are  decorated 
with  reliefs.  The  spaces  under  the  arches  are  occupied  by  public 
writers,  ready  at  a  moment's  notice  to  commit  to  paper  the  pleading 
of  the  lover  or  the  expostulation  of  the  creditor. 

Adjoining  the  theatre  is  the  small  garden  belonging  to  the 
palace,  and  farther  to  the  right  are  two  Horse-tamers  by  Baron  Olodt 
of  St.  Petersburg,  presented  by  the  Emp.  Nicholas  of  Russia.  Far- 
ther on,  to  the  right,  are  the  stalls  of  dealers  in  coral,  etc. 

"We  next  reach  the  long  Piazza  del  Municipio  (PI.  F ,  6), 
in  which  a  statue  of  Victor  Emmanuel  is  about  to  be  erected.  To 
the  left  is  situated  the  handsome  Municipio,  or  town  hall,  the  Pa- 
lazzo de'  Ministeri  under  the  Bourbons,  erected  in  1819-25  from 
designs  by  Luigi  and  Stefano  Oasse.  On  the  principal  entrance  are 
inscribed  the  names  of  the  Neapolitans  who  were  executed  for 
sedition  under  the  Bourbon  regime.  In  the  gateway  are  the  statues 
of  the  kings  Roger  and  Frederick  II.  —  From  this  point  a  passage 
leads  to  the  Toledo ;  within  it,  to  the  right,  is  the  entrance  to  the 
Exchange. 

Immediately  adjoining  the  Municipio,  rises  the  church  of  S.  Gia- 
como  degli  Spagnuoli,  erected  in  1540  by  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo. 

Interior.  We  enter  by  a  door  adjacent  to  the  gate  of  the  Municipio 
and  ascend  the  stairs.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance:  "Andrea  del  Sarto, 
Holy  Family.  3rd  Chapel  on  the  left:  Gian  Bernardo  Lama,  Descent 
from  the  Cross;  also  pictures  by  Bernardino  Siciliano,  Marco  da  Siena, 
and  others.  At  the  back  of  the  high -altar  is  the  sumptuous  Tomb  of 
Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  (d.  1553),  by  Giovanni  da  Nola,  adorned  with  statues 
of  the  cardinal  virtues,  reliefs  of  the  achievements  of  the  viceroy,  and  his 
statue  in  a  kneeling  posture,  with  that  of  his  wife. 

The  wide  Strada  Medina  begins  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Piazza  del 
Municipio.  The  corner-house ,  on  the  left,  the  Palazzo  Sirignano, 
is  usually  described  as  Goethe's  residence  while  at  Naples  in  1787. 
Farther  on  is  the  Incoronata  church  (see  p.  42). 

On  the  S.E.  side  of  the  square  rises  the  Castel  Nuovo  (PI.  F,  6), 
the  outer  walls  and  bastions  of  which  have  been  removed.  This 
castle  was  begun  in  1283  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou  from  a  design 
attributed  to  Giov.  da  Pisa,  and  was  enlarged  by  Alphonso  I.  (1442), 
Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  (1546),  and  Charles  III.  (1735).  The  kings  of 
the  houses  of  Anjou  and  Arragon,  and  the  Spanish  viceroys  succes- 
sively resided  here. 

The  Entrance  (free)  is  on  the  N.  side.  Passing  the  sentry,  we  turn 
to  the  right,  then  to  the  left,  and  reach  after  a  few  hundred  paces  the 
lofty  'Triumphal  Arch  by  which  the  castle  is  entered.  It  was  erected  in 
1470  to  commemorate  the  entry  of  Alphonso  I.  of  Aragon  (2nd  June,  1442), 
by   Pietro  di  Martina,  a  Milanese  architect  (or,  according  to   Vasari,  by 


38      Route  3.  NAPLES.  I.  Side  of  the  City 

Giuliano  da  Maiano  of  Florence).  This  is  the  finest  monument  at  Naples. 
It  consists  of  an  archway  with  Corinthian  columns  on  each  side,  now 
partly  built  into  the  wall,  a  frieze,  and  a  cornice,  above  which  is  an 
attic  with  well-executed  sculpture  representing  the  entry  of  Alphonso,  by 
Isaia  da  Pisa,  Paolo  Romano,  and  Silvestro  dell'  Aquila.  Above  are  statnes 
of  St.  Michael,  St.  Antonius  Abbas,  and  St.  Sebastian  (half  destroyed), 
below  which  are  the  four  cardinal  virtues  in  niches.  The  bronze  doors 
(restored  in  1889)  are  adorned  with  representations  of  the  victories  of 
Ferdinand  I. ,  by  Ouglielmo  Monaco.  A  cannon-ball  imbedded  in  the 
masonry  of  the  left  wing  is  a  reminiscence  of  the  wars  of  the  time  of 
Gonsalvo  da  Cordova. 

In  the  inner  yard  (usually  closed  tu  visitors)  is  the  entrance  to  the 
church  of  S.  Barbara,  or  S.  Sebastiano,  with  a  Corinthian  facade  by  Oiu- 
llano  da  Maiano,  and  a  beautiful  Madonna  in  relief  above  the  door. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Piazza  del  Municipio,  beside  the  Teatro 
del  Fondo  (PI.  F,  6 ;  p.  26)  is  the  beginning  of  a  broad  new  street 
which  runs  to  the  railway-station,  and  will  be  finished  in  1893. 

The  piazza  is  continued  to  the  E.  by  the  Molo  Anyioino,  a  pier 
14  yds.  in  width,  originally  constructed  by  Charles  of  Anjou  in 
1302.  Adjoining  are  the  extensive  Harbours  (PI.  F,  G,  6,  5), 
The  Porto  Militarb,  or  government  harbour ,  to  the  right,  shut 
off  by  a  railing,  was  begun  by  Francis  I.  in  1826  and  has  recently 
been  enlarged.  At  its  S.W.  angle  are  the  Darsena,  or  old  naval 
harbour,  and  the  Arsenate  di  Marina,  erected  in  1577  by  the  vice- 
roy Mendoza,  with  a  dockyard,  arsenal,  etc. 

At  the  angle  formed  by  the  Molo  rises  the  Lighthouse  {Lanterna; 
PI.  G,  6),  originally  erected  in  the  15th  cent.,  but  rebuilt  in 
1843.  The  ascent  is  strongly  recommended,  as  it  enables  the  vis- 
itor to  form  an  accurate  idea  of  the  topography  of  the  town 
(fee  1  fr.).  An  easy  marble  staircase  of  142  steps  ascends  to  the 
gallery.  —  The  magazines  at  the  end  of  the  Molo  are  used  as 
bonded  warehouses  (Porto  franco).  The  terminus  of  the  goods- 
railway  between  the  station  and  the  harbour  is  also  here.  —  The 
mercantile  harbour,  or  Porto  Grande,  was  constructed  in  1302  by 
Charles  II.  of  Anjou  at  the  same  time  as  the  Molo,  and  enlarged  by 
Charles  III.  in  1740. 

The  Strada  del  Piliero,  along  which  runs  the  railway  just 
mentioned,  skirts  the  mercantile  harbour.  At  its  end,  to  the  left,  is 
the  new  Dogana;  to  the  right,  on  the  Molo  Piccolo,  is  situated  the 
Immacolatella  with  the  offices  of  the  custom-house  and  the  Depu- 
tazione  di  Salute  (PI.  G,  5).  Adjoining  the  Immacolatella  is  the 
quay  at  which  travellers  arriving  at  Naples  by  sea  disembark.  This 
is  also  the  starting-point  of  some  of  the  Capri  and  Ischia  steamers 
(see  pp.  152,  104).  —  The  Porto  Piccolo  (PL  G,  5),  which  is  ac- 
cessible to  small  boats  only,  once  formed  part  of  the  most  ancient 
harbour  of  Neapolis. 

The  first  side-street  to  the  left  leads  straight  to  the  church  of  S. 
Pietro  Murtire  (PI.  G,  S),  which  contains  a  few  monuments  and  pictures 
(Legend  of  St.  Vincent,  a  good  work  in  the  Flemish-Neapolitan  style). 

The  last  street  but  one  to  the  left  before  S.  Pietro  is  reached  leads 
into  the  Slrada  di  Porto,  a  scene  of  the  most  motley  bustle  and  confusion, 
especially  towards  evening  (comp.  p.  27),    As  this,  moreover,  is  the  dirtiest 


next  the  sea.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      39 

quarter  of  the   town,   the  fumes  which   arise   are  intensely  'ancient  and 
fishlike\ 

"We  continue  to  follow  the  broad  quay,  farther  on  called  the 
Strada  Nuova(P1.  G,  H,  5),  which  is  always  full  of  life  and  hustle. 
At  the  end  is  the  new  Strada  delDuomo  (p.  53),  and  to  the  right 
the  Villa  del  Popolo  (PI.  H,  5),  a  new  public  garden  on  the  sea. 
Here  in  the  afternoon  after  4  p.m.,  public  readers  may  often  be 
seen,  declaiming  passages  from  Tasso,  Ariosto,  or  other  poets,  to 
an  audience  of  workmen,  rag-pickers,  and  other  humble  folk,  who 
each  pay  2  c.  for  the  privilege  of  listening.  Similar  scenes  occur 
also  outside  the  Porta  Capuana.  The  garden  contains  a  marble 
nymphseum,   formerly  in  the  Immacolatella  (see  p.  38). 

Opposite  rises  the  Castel  del  Carmine  (PI.  H,  4),  a  vast  struc- 
ture erected  by  Ferdinand  I.  in  1484.  In  1647  during  the  rebellion 
of  Masaniello  (see  below)  it  was  occupied  by  the  populace,  and  is 
now  used  as  barracks  and  a  military  prison. 

The  Porta  del  Carmine,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Castel,  leads  to  a 
piazza,  in  which,  on  the  right,  is  situated  the  church  of  S.  Maria 
del  Carmine  (PI.  H,  4)  with  its  lofty  tower.  The  edifice  (open 
early  in  the  morning,  and  after  4.30  p.m.),  which  is  of  early  ori- 
gin, but  was  modernised  in  1769,  contains  a  celebrated  miraculous 
picture  of  the  Virgin  ('La  Bruna' ;  festival  on  July  16-17th),  and 
a  statue  of  Conradin,  the  last  of  the  Hohenstaufen,  erected  in  1847 
by  Maximilian  II.  of  Bavaria  and.  executed  by  Schopf  from  a  design 
by  Thorvaldsen.  The  original  tomb  was  behind  the  high-altar,  to 
the  right,  where  its  position  is  marked  by  the  inscription  'R.  C.  C 
(Regis  Conradini  corpus). 

We  now  turn  to  the  left  to  the  Piazza  del  Mercato  (PL  H,  4), 
where  the  traffic  is  busiest  on  Mondays  and  Fridays.  The  fish- 
market  is  interesting.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  piazza,  which  forms  a 
semicircle,  is  the  church  of  S.  Croce  al  Mercato.  On  the  S.  side 
are  two  fountains.  On  29th  Oct.  1268,  Conradin  (see  above),  then 
in  his  17th  year,  and  his  relative  Frederick  of  Baden,  were  executed 
here  by  order  of  Charles  I.  of  Anjou.  The  sacristy  of  the  church 
of  S.  Croce  contains  a  column  of  porphyry  which  formerly  marked 
the  spot  where  the  young  prince  was  beheaded.  In  1647  this  piazza 
was  also  one  of  the  scenes  of  the  insurrection  of  Masaniello  (Tom- 
maso  Aniello,  born  in  the  neighbouring  Yico  Rotto  in  1622). 

Returning  to  the  church  del  Carmine,  and  following  the  street 
to  the  left,  we  may  reach  the  Porta  Capuana  (p.  49)  in  8  min. ;  or 
we  may  pass  the  church  and  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  to  the 
small  Piazza  Garibaldi ,  and  turn  to  the  left  into  the  broad ,  new 
Corso  Garibaldi,  which  begins  near  the  coast,  passes  (5  min.)  the 
Porta  Nolana,  the  railway-station,  and  (5  min.)  the  Porta  Capuana, 
and  terminates  in  the  Strada  Foria  (see  p.  41). 


40      Route  3.  NAPLES.  //.  Toledo. 

II.   The  Toledo  as  far  as  the  Museum. 

Starting  from  the  Largo  della  Vittoria  (p.  34;  PI.  D,  7),  the 
broad  Via  Calabritto,  with  its  handsome  shops,  leads  us  to- 
wards the  N.  to  the  triangular  Piazza  db'  Martiri,  where  the  Co- 
lonna  de'  Martiri  (PI.  D,  E,  7),  a  lofty  column  of  marble  decorated 
with  trophies,  and  crowned  with  a  Victory  in  bronze,  was  erected 
in  1864  to  the  memory  of  the  patriots  who  have  perished  during  the 
different  Neapolitan  revolutions.  The  four  lions  at  the  base,  in 
different  postures,  represent  the  four  principal  revolutions  at  Naples 
during  the  Bourbon  dynasty  (1799,  1820,  1848,  1860).  The  mon- 
ument was  designed  by  Alvino,  the  Victory  executed  by  Caggiani. 
—  On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  Piazza  is  the  Palazzo  Partanna, 
on  the  S.  the  Palazzo  Calabritto,  and  farther  on,  with  a  garden  in 
front,  the  Palazzo  Nunziante. 

Proceeding  towards  the  N.  by  the  Strada  S.  Caterina,  from 
which  the  new  Via  dei  Mille  diverges  to  the  left,  we  next  enter  the 
busy  Strada  di  Chiaja  (PI.  E,  6).  Where  this  street  begins  to 
ascend,  it  is  crossed  by  the  Ponte  di  Chiaja,  a  viaduct  built  in 
1634,  by  which  the  Strada  Monte  di  Dio  leads  from  the  quarter 
of  Pizzofalcone  to  the  higher  ground  below  S.  Elmo.  (The  flight  of 
steps  on  the  right,  between  the  buttresses  of  the  bridge,  ascends  < 
from  the  Strada  di  Chiaja  to  the  Strada  M.  di  Dio.)  The  Str.  di 
Chiaja,  which  contains  nothing  noteworthy,  leads  into  the  Piazza 
S.  Ferdinando  (p.  36),  at  the  foot  of  the  Toledo. 

The  *Toledo  (PI.  E,  6-4),  a  street  begun  by  the  viceroy  Don 
Pedro  de  Toledo  in  1540,  but  since  the  autumn  of  1870  officially 
known  as  the  Via  Roma,  gia  Toledo,  is  the  main  artery  of  the  traffic 
of  Naples,  and  presents  a  busy  scene  at  all  hours.  It  intersects 
the  city  from  S.  to  N.  nearly  in  a  straight  line,  ascending  gradually 
from  the  sea.  It  extends  from  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito  (p.  35) 
to  the  Museo  Nazionale,  beyond  which  its  prolongation  is  formed 
by  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Capodimonte ,  and  is  nearly  l'/2  M.  in 
length,  but  contains  no  building  worthy  of  note.  On  both  sides 
extends  a  network  of  streets  and  lanes,  many  of  which  ascend  to 
the  left  by  means  of  steps  to  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  and  the 
Castel  S.  Elmo,  while  those  to  the  right  extend  to  the  railway- 
station  and  the  harbour,  forming  the  centres  of  mercantile  traffic. 

Ascending  the  Toledo  from  the  Piazza  S.  Ferdinando,  we 
come  in  about  10  min.  to  the  small  Largo  della  Carita 
(PI.  E,  5),  where  in  1877  was  erected  a  Monument  to  Carlo 
Poerio  (d.  1867),  the  dauntless  Italian  patriot  whose  unjust  con- 
demnation and  imprisonment  in  1850  did  so  much  to  inflame  the 
hate  of  the  people  for  the  Bourbon  dynasty.  —  Holding  hence 
to  the  left  we  may  reach  Monte  Santo,  the  terminus  of  the  cable- 
railway  to  the  Vomero  (p.  23),  and  the  station  of  the  Cumae  Rail- 
way (p.  91).  —  To  the  right  diverges  a  street  to  the  Piazza  Mont- 
oliveto  (p.  43 ;  post-office,  see  p.  24). 


•//.  Toledo.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      41 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  the  Strada  S.  Trinith 
Maggiore  (p.  44),  the  only  important  side-street  by  which  the  To- 
ledo is  crossed,  rises  the  Palazzo  Maddaloni  (PI.  E,  F,4, 5;  entrance 
in  the  Str.  Maddaloni),  now  let  to  the  Banco,  Nazionale,  a  massive 
structure  with  a  gateway  and  staircase  from  designs  by  Fansaga. 
The  interior  contains  a  hall  of  fine  proportions.  Adjacent,  separated 
by  a  cross-street,  at  the  corner  of  the  Toledo  and  the  Strada  S.  Anna 
de1  Lombardi,  is  the  Palazzo  d'Angri,  erected  about  1773  by  Luigi 
Vanvitelli,  and  occupied  by  Garibaldi  when  dictator  in  1860. 

In  2-3  min.  more  we  reach  the  Piazza  Dante  (PI.  E,  F,  4), 
formerly  the  Largo  del  Mercatello,  where  a  Monument  of  Dante  in 
marble,  by  T.  Angelini  and  Solari,  was  erected  in  1872.  The  crescent- 
shaped  edifice,  beyond  the  statue,  which  was  converted  into  a  Liceo 
Oinnasiale  Vittorio  Emanuele  in  1861 ,  surmounted  by  a  balustrade 
with  twenty-six  statues,  was  erected  by  the  city  of  Naples  in  honour 
of  Charles  III.  in  1757,  the  statues  being  emblems  of  the  virtues  of 
that  monarch.  • — ■  Adjacent,  to  the  left,  is  the  Porta  Alba,  erected 
in  1632,  embellished  with  a  bronze  statue  of  S.  Gaetano ,  whence 
the  Via  de'  Tribunali  may  be  entered  (see  pp.  51-55). 

Leaving  the  Piazza  Dante ,  and  passing  a  row  of  houses  re- 
cently erected,  we  ascend  gradually  in  5  min.  by  the  Salita  del 
Museo  to  the  Museo  Nazionale  (PI.  E,  F,  3;  p.  55),  a  large  red 
building,  the  entrance  to  which  is  in  the  broad  side-street  diverg- 
ing on  the  right  to  the  Piazza  Cavour.  —  By  the  Toledo  hence  to 
Capodimonte,  see  pp.  80,  81. 

Opposite  the  entrance  of  the  Museum  is  the  Oalleria  Principe 
di  Napoli,  a  covered  bazaar  (PI.  F,  3)  designed  by  Alvino,  not  much 
frequented. 

The  long  PiAzza  Cavoub.  (PI.  F,  3)  ,  which  extends  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  Museum,  is  embellished  with  gardens.  To  the  N.E.the 
piazza  contracts  into  the  Strada  Foria  (PI.  F,  G,  3,  2).  The  first 
street  diverging  from  it  to  the  right  is  the  Strada  del  Duomo,  lead- 
ing to  the  cathedral  (4  min. ;  p.  51);  the  Strada  Oarbonara  next  di- 
verges on  the  same  side  to  S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara  (p.  50)  and 
the  Porta  Capuana ;  and  the  Corso  Garibaldi  farther  on  also  leads 
to  the  right  to  the  same  gate  (10  min. ;  p.  49). 

On  the  left  side  of  the  Strada  Foria  we  next  reach  the  Botanic 
Garden,  which  was  founded  in  1809  and  extended  in  1818.  It  is 
open  to  the  public  daily,  except  from  12  to  2,  and  contains  a  fine 
collection  of  tropical  plants.  —  Adjacent  is  the  extensive  poor- 
house,  the  Albergo  de'  Poveri,  or  Reclusorio  (PI.  G,  H,  1,  2),  begun 
by  Charles  III.  in  1751  from  a  design  by  Fuga,  and  intended  to 
contain  four  courts,  still  nearly  half  uncompleted.  One  side  is  ap- 
propriated to  men,  the  other  to  women.  In  this  establishment  and 
its  dependencies  about  2000  persons  are  maintained.  The  city 
contains  numerous  other  charitable  institutions  ,  about  sixty  in  all, 
most  of  which  are  amply  endowed. 


42      Route  3.  NAPLES.  III.  The  Old  Town. 

III.   The  Old  Town.   E.  Quarters  between  the  Toledo  and  the 

Harbour. 

Naples  contains  about  three  hundred  Chdkches,  most  of  which  are 
devoid  of  interest.  The  older  of  them  have  been  disfigured  by  restora- 
tion in  the  degraded  style  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries,  which  appears 
to  have  attained  its  height  here.  But ,  as  they  contain  numerous  mon- 
uments, important  in  the  history  of  sculpture,  and  are  rich  in  historical 
and  political  associations,  some  of  them  are  well  deserving  of  a  visit. 
The  most  important  are  described  in  the  following  pages.  They  are  gen- 
erally closed  about  noon,  and  not  re-opened  till  evening. 

We  begin  our  walk  in  the  Strada  Medina  (PI.  F,  5;  p.  37). 
To  the  left,  adjoining  No.  49,  is  a  railing  enclosing  a  flight  of  steps 
which  descend  to  the  church  of  the  — 

Incoronata  (open  in  the  morning),  erected  in  1352  by  Queen 
Johanna  I.  to  commemorate  her  coronation  and  marriage  with 
her  cousin  Louis  of  Taranto,  and  made  to  include  the  old  chapel  of 
the  Palais  de  Justice  in  which  the  marriage  had  been  solemnised. 

This  chapel  contains  fine  Frescoes,  formerly  attributed  to  Giotto,  but 
probably  by  one  of  his  pupils  (much  darkened  and  injured;  best  seen 
from  a  platform  to  the  left  near  the  entrance  to  the  church;  keys  at 
the  sacristy,  5-6  soldi).  They  represent  the  'Seven  Sacraments  and  the 
Church'.  In  the  arch  over  the  right  window,  on  the  right  is  the  'Triumph 
of  the  Church',  with  portraits  of  King  Robert  and  his  son  Charles,  attired 
in  purple ,  on  the  left  the  Extreme  Unction.  The  next  arch  to  the  right 
comprises:  (1.)  Baptism,  (r.)  Confirmation;  then  (1.)  the  Eucharist,  and 
(r.)  Confession;  and  on  the  other  side,  (1.)  Ordination,  (r.)  Matrimony. 
The  last  refers  to  the  marriage  above  mentioned ,  which  did  not  take 
place  till  1347,  eleven  years  after  Giotto's  death.  Two  halffigures  in 
'Baptism',  one  of  which  is  crowned  with  laurel,  are  said  to  represent 
Petrarch  and  Laura,  and  in  'Matrimony'  Dante's  features  are  said  to  be  re- 
cognisable. The  Chapel  of  the  Crucifix,  at  the  end  of  the  left  aisle,  also 
contains  frescoes  in  Giotto's  style ,  ascribed  to  Gennaro  di  Cola ,  a 
pupil  of  Maestro  Simone :  to  the  left  are  represented  the  Coronation  of 
Johanna  I.,  her  nuptials,  and  other  events  in  her  life;  to  the  right  St. 
Martin,  St.  George,  battles,  etc.,  all  much  damaged.  Fine  wood-carving  on 
the  organ  screen. 

Opposite  the  church  is  situated  the  Palazzo  Fondi,  designed 
by  Luigi  Vanvitelli.  —  Farther  on  in  the  Strada  Medina  is  a  statue 
of  Fr.  Sav.  Mercadante  (d.  1870),  the  composer  of  several  operas. 

At  the  end  of  the  Strada  Medina  we  enter  the  busy  Strada 
S.  Giuseppe  to  the  left.  After  a  few  minutes'  walk,  a  broad  street 
to  the  right  leads  to  the  church  of  S.  Maria  la  Nuova  (PI.  F,  5), 
the  entrance  of  which  is  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  It  was 
erected  in  1268  by  Giovanni  da  Pisa,  and  restored  in  1525  by 
Agnolo  Franco. 

Interior.  The  ceiling  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Santafede  and 
Simone  Papa  the  younger,  and  the  dome  with  others  by  Corenzio  (the  four 
Franciscan  teachers  S.  Bonaventura,  Duns  Scotus,  Nicolaus  de  Lira,  and 
Alexander  ab  Alexandro).    The  fine  marble  pavement  is  in  poor  preservation. 

In  the  1st  Chap,  to  the  right,  the  'Archangel  Michael',  formerly  ascribed 
to  Michael  Angelo.  3rd  Chap. :  Crucifixion,  by  Marco  da  Siena.  In  the  Chap, 
del  Crocefisso  frescoes  by  Corenzio.  —  The  right  transept  contains  the  monu- 
ment of  Galeazzo  Sanseverino  (d.  1467),  with  sculptures.  In  the  opposite 
chapel  is  a  beautiful  crucifix  in  wood  by  Giovanni  da  Nola.  —  At  the 
high-altar  is  a  Madonna  in  wood  by  Tommaso  de'  Slefani,  with  saints  by 
A.   Borghetli.    —    The   large   Chapel   of   S,  Giacomo  della  Maeoa,  to  the 


E.  Quarters.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      43 

left  of  the  entrance  to  the  church,  was  erected  in  1604  by  Gonsalvo  da 
Cordova,  lil  gran  capitano',  whose  nephew  Ferdinand  placed  on  each  side 
of  the  altar  the  monuments  of  his  two  most  distinguished  enemies :  Pietro 
Navarro  (who  strangled  himself  when  a  prisoner  in  the  Castello  Nuovo) 
and  Lautrec ,  a  Frenchman ,  the  general  of  Francis  I.  (who  died  of  the 
plague  in  1528,  while  besieging  Naples-).  The  monuments  are  attributed  to 
Qiov.  da  Nolo,  or  his  pupils.  The  inscriptions,  composed  by  Paolo  Giovio, 
testify  to  the  chivalrous  sentiments  of  that  period. 

The  adjoining  Monastery  possesses  two  sets  of  Cloisters,  with  tomb- 
stones, aud  a  Refectory  adorned  with  a  Bearing  of  the  Cross  and  other 
frescoes  by  unknown  masters. 

We  now  return  and  pursue  our  route  along  the  Str.  Giuseppe, 
of  which  the  Strada  Montoliyeto  forms  the  continuation.  Where 
the  latter  expands  into  a  square,  on  the  right  stands  the  Palazzo 
Gravina ,  now  the  General  Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PL  F,  5), 
erected  about  1500  by  Ferdinando  Orsini,  Duca  di  Gravina,  from 
designs  by  Qdbriele  d'Agnolo,  but  disfigured  by  modern  improvements. 

Ascending  from  this  point  to  the  left ,  past  a  Fountain  with 
a  bronze  statue  of  Charles  II.  (1663),  we  reach  the  Piazza  di 
Montoliyeto,  where  the  side-street  (p.  40)  to  the  Toledo  begins. 
Here  is  the  church  of  *Monte  Oliveto  (PL  F,  5),  usually  called  S. 
Anna  dei  Lombardi,  begun  in  1411  by  Guerello  Origlia,  the  favour- 
ite of  King  Ladislaus,  and  continued  in  the  Early  Renaissance  style 
by  Andrea  Ciccione.  The  church  is  a  flat-roofed  basilica  without 
aisles,  and  contains  valuable  sculptures;  the  chapels  are  kept  shut 
(sacristan  '/2  fr-)- 

Interior.  Cappella  Piccolomini  (1st  on  the  left) :  "Altar  by  Ant.  Ro- 
selliao  of  Florence  (about  1475) :  in  the  centre  the  Nativity,  in  the  niches 
at  the  sides  and  in  the  medallions  the  four  Evangelists,  above,  Dancing 
angels  and  four  Putti.  The  ''Monument  of  Maria  of  Aragon  (d.  1470), 
natural  daughter  of  Ferdinand  I.,  wife  of  Antonio  Piccolomini,  Duke  of 
Amalfi,  by  Rossellino,  (probably  completed  by  Benedetto  da  Maiano),  is  a 
copy  of  the  monument  of  the  Cardinal  of  Portugal  in  S.  Miniato's  at  Flo- 
rence. Crucifixion,  by  Oiulio  Mazzoni  of  Piacenza.  The  Ascension,  a  picture 
by  Silvestro  de"  Buoni  (ascribed  by  Sig.  Frizzoni  to  the  school  of  Pintur- 
icchio).  —  Opposite  the  sacristy  is  the  Coko  dei  Fkati,  containing  fine 
intarsia  work  by  Giovanni  da  Verona  (d.  1525),  restored  in  1840  by  Min- 
chiotti.  —  The  Choir  contains  frescoes  by  Simone  Papa  the  Younger.  The 
Sacristy  ,  behind  the  choir,  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Vasari.  The 
monuments  of  Alphonso  II.  and  Guerello  Origlia  are  by  Giovanni  da  Sola. 
—  Cappella  Mastkogiudici  (1st  on  the  right).  Marble  "Altar,  with  the 
Annunciation  and  six  small  reliefs  from  the  life  of  Christ,  below,  by  Be- 
nedetto da  Maiano  (1489).  Several  monuments,  including  that  of  'Marinus 
Curialis  Surrentinus  Terrenovse  comes',  1490,  who  founded  this  chapel.  —  5th 
Chapel  on  the  left :  John  the  Baptist,  by  Giovanni  da  Sola.  —  The  Chapel 
of  the  Madonna  (adjoining  the  right  transept)  contains  the  tombs  of 
Cardinal  Pompeo  Colonna ,  viceroy  of  Naples  (d.  1532),  and  of  Charles  de 
Lannoy  (d.  1527),  general  of  Charles  V.  —  The  adjacent  Chapel  of  the 
Holt  Sepulchre  contains  a  coarsely  realistic  *Grroup  in  terracotta  com- 
pleted in  1492  by  Guido  Mazzoni,  surnamed  Modanino  (of  Modena ;  d.  1518), 
representing  Christ  in  the  Sepulchre,  surrounded  by  six  lifesize  figures  in 
a  kneeling  posture ,  all  portraits  of  contemporaries  of  the  artist :  Sanna- 
zaro  as  Joseph  of  Arimathsea,  Pontanus  as  Nicodemus,  Alphonso  II.  as 
John,   beside  him  his  son  Ferdinand. 

The  adjacent  building,  now  occupied  by  public  offices ,  was 
formerly    a   Benedictine  Monastery ,    where    the   poet   Tasso   was 


44      Route  3.  NAPLES.  III.    The  Old  Town. 

kindly  received  when  ill  and  in  distress  in  1558.  The  old  chapter- 
house (shown  to  -visitors  by  the  sacristan) ,  in  the  early-Gothic 
style  with  disfigurements  of  later  date ,  is  remarkable  for  its  fine 
effects  of  light  and  shade.  The  beautiful  intarsia  work  on  the 
choir-stalls  is  by  Angelo  da  Verona. 

Returning  to  the  fountain  mentioned  on  p.  43,  we  follow  the 
Calata  S.  Trinita  Maggiore  to  the  Largo  S.  Trinita  Maggiore 
(PI.  F,  4),  where  a  lofty  Madonna  Column  was  erected  in  1748  in 
the  style  of  the  period.  In  this  piazza  is  situated  the  church  of 
Gesu  Nuovo,  or  S.  Trinita  Maggiore,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross, 
built  in  1584,  containing  frescoes  by  Solimena  (History  of  Heliodorus, 
over  the  portal),  Stanzioni,  Spagnoletto,  and  Corenzio,  and  overladen 
with  marble  and  decorations.  —  The  office  of  the  'Corriere  di  Na- 
poli'  opposite  the  church,  Piazza  S.  Trinita  Maggiore  12,  contains 
the  old  refectory  of  the  former  monastery  of  8.  Chiara,  where  a  dam- 
aged fresco  by  one  of  Oiolto's  pupils,  representing  the  Miracle  of 
the  Loaves,  is  still  preserved  (not  always  accessible). 

Beyond  the  church  of  Gesu  we  reach  the  Strada  S.  Trinita 
Maggiore,  one  of  the  busiest  streets  crossing  the  Toledo  (p.  40), 
and  turning  immediately  to  the  right  we  pass  through  a  gate  to 
*Santa  Chiara  (PI.  F,  4),  originally  erected  by  Robert  the  Wise 
in  1310,  but  almost  entirely  rebuilt  in  1318,  and  richly  but  tas- 
telessly restored  in  1752.  At  the  same  time  Oiotto's  frescoes  were 
whitewashed.  The  church  contains  handsome  Gothic  monuments 
of  the  Angevin  dynasty,  and  other  sculptures. 

The  "Interior,  92  yds.  long  and  35  yds.  wide,  is  lofty  and  handsome, 
resembling  a  magnificent  hall.  To  the  left  of  the  principal  entrance  is 
the  monument  of  Onofrio  di  Penna,  secretary  of  King  Ladislaus  (d.  1322), 
with  a  relief  of  the  Madonna  and  hermits  by  Bdboccio ,  converted  into  an 
altar.  Above  are  a  Madonna  enthroned  and  the  Trinity,  by  Francesco, 
son  of  Maestro  Simone  (about  1300).  —  In  front  of  the  organ,  above,  are 
tasteful  reliefs  from  the  life  of  St.  Catharine ,  14th  cent. ,  executed  on  a 
dark  ground  and  resembling  cameos.  —  Of  the  principal  paintings  on  the 
ceiling,  the  first,  the  Queen  of  Sheba,  and  the  second,  David  playing  on 
the  harp,  are  by  Seb.  Conca;  the  third,  David  sacrificing,  by  Bonito;  the 
fourth,  S.  Clara  putting  the  Saracens  to  flight,  by  Francesco  di  Sura. 
The  last-named  master  also  painted  the  high -altar-piece  (the  Sacrament) 
and  the  picture  over  the  principal  entrance  (King  Robert  inspecting  the 
church  when  building). 

The  second  chapel  on  the  left  contains  two  sarcophagi:  on  the  right 
is  the  tomb  of  Gabriel  Adorno  (d.  1572),  an  admiral  under  the  Emperor 
Charles  V. ;  on  the  left  a  tomb  of  the  14th  century.  —  By  the  3rd  pillar 
to  the  left  is  the  altar  of  the  Madonna  delle  Grazie,  with  a  fresco  almost 
concealed  by  frippery,  attributed  to  Giotto. 

Near  the  side-door  which  leads  out  of  the  church  on  the  left  side  is 
the  small  but  graceful  monument,  by  Oiov.  da  Sola,  of  Antonia  Gaudino, 
who  died  in  1530  at  the  age  of  14,  on  the  day  appointed  for  her  marriage, 
with  a  beautiful  epitaph  by  the  poet  Antonius  Epicurus  (d.  1555).  The  next 
chapel  contains  two  tombstones  of  the  14th  century.  —  The  Capfella 
Sanfelice,  adjoining  the  pulpit,  which  is  borne  by  lions  and  adorned  with 
reliefs  of  the  13th  cent.,  contains  a  Crucifixion  by  Lanfranco,  and  an  an- 
cient sarcophagus  with  figures  of  Protesilaus  and  Laodamia  which  forms 
the  tomb  of  Cesare  Sanfelice,  Duca  di  Rodi  (d.  1632).  —  The  following 
Cappella  Longobardi  de  la  Cruz  Ahedo  contains  on  the  left  side  a  mon- 
ument of  1529,  and  on  the  right  a  similar  one  of  1853. 


E.  Quarters.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      45 

At  the  back  of  the  high-altar  is  the  magnificent  "Monument  of  Robert 
the  Wise  (d.  1343),  42  ft.  in  height,  executed  by  the  brothers  Baccio  and 
Giovanni  of  Florence  (not  Masuccio  the  Younger).  The  king  is  represented 
in  a  recumbent  posture ,  in  the  garb  of  a  Franciscan,  on  a  sarcophagus 
embellished  with  reliefs  and  supported  by  saints.  In  a  niche  above 
he  appears  again,  seated  on  his  throne.  At  the  top  is  the  Madonna 
between  SS.  Francis  and  Clara.  The  inscription,  'Cernite  Robertum 
regem  virtute  refertum'  is  ascribed  to  Petrarch.  — ■  In  the  adjacent  N. 
Transept  is  the  monument  of  his  second  daughter  Mary,  sister  of 
Johanna  I. ,  empress  of  Constantinople  and  Duchess  of  Durazzo,  attired 
in  her  imperial  robes.  By  the  wall  to  the  left,  the  tomb  of  Agnese  and 
Clementia,  the  two  daughters  of  the  empress,  the  former  having  also 
been  the  consort  of  a  titular  emperor  of  Constantinople ,  Giacomo  del 
Balzo,  Prince  of  Taranto.  In  the  left  lateral  wall ,  the  tomb  of  Mary, 
infant  daughter  of  Charles  the  Illustrious,  who  died  in  1344.  Here  also  is 
the  fine  tomb  of  Paolina  Eanieri,  the  faithful  friend  of  Giacomo  Leopardi, 
with  a  lifesize  figure  of  the  deceased,  by  Car.  Solari  (1878).  —  In  the  S. 
Transept,  adjoining  the  monument  of  Robert  the  Wise  ,  is  that  of  his 
eldest  son  Charles,  Duke  of  Calabria,  who  died  in  1328,  before  his  father, 
by  Tino  da  Camaino  of  Siena  (1338).  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the 
monument  of  Mary  of  Valois,  his  queen,  erroneously  said  to  be  that  of  her 
daughter  Johanna  I.  —  The  Chapel  adjoining  the  S.  transept  on  the  right 
is  the  burial-chapel  of  the  Bourbons,  in  which  six  children  of  Charles  III. 
are  interred. 

The  handsome  Campanile  (clock -tower)  of  S.  Chiara  was 
formerly  attributed  to  Masuccio  the  Younger  or  to  his  pupil  Giacomo 
de  Sanctis  (14th  cent.),  and  hence  was  long  considered  to  prove 
that  Naples  was  one  of  the  heralds  of  the  Renaissance.  In  reality 
it  was  not  built  till  after  1600. 

Farther  on  in  the  Str.  S.  Trinita  Maggiore,  we  soon  reach,  on  the 
left,  the  Largo  S.  Dombnico  (PI.  F,  4),  containing  the  palaces 
of  (to  the  right)  Casacalenda,  Corigliano,  and  (to  the  left,  beyond 
the  square)  S.  Severo,  and  Caviati,  and  adorned  with  a  Obelisk, 
surmounted  by  a  bronze  statue  of  the  saint,  executed  by  Vaccaro 
in  1737  from  a  design  by  Fansaga.  The  stairs  to  the  left  lead  to  a 
side-entranoe  of  the  church  of  S.  Domenico,  the  principal  entrance 
of  which  in  the  court  of  the  Pretura,  Vico  S.  Domenico,  is  generally 
closed. 

*S.  Domenico  Maggiore  (open  7-11  a.m.  only),  erected  by 
Charles  II.  in  1289  in  the  Gothic  style  is  one  of  the  finest  churches 
in  Naples,  notwithstanding  the  subsequent  alterations  it  has  under- 
gone (the  last  in  1850-53).  The  church  is  83  yds.  long,  36  yds. 
wide,  and  84  ft.  high.  It  contains  twenty-seven  chapels  and  twelve 
altars,  and  presents  an  imposing  appearance  with  its  handsome 
columns  and  rich  gilding,  but  the  cassetted  ceiling,  added  in  the 
17th  cent.,  does  not  harmonise  well  with  the  rest  of  the  edifice. 
The  most  distinguishedsfamilies  of  Naples  have  for  several  centuries 
possessed  chapels  here,  with  numerous  monuments,  which  are  as 
important  examples  of  early  Renaissance  sculpture  as  those  in  S. 
Chiara  are  of  Gothic  art. 

The  1st  Chapel  to  the  right  (wall  of  the  entrance),  that  of  the  Sa- 
luzzo ,  formerly  of  the  Carafa  family,  contains  an  altar  -  piece  (Madonna 
with   SS.   Martin   and  Dominicus   and  several  of  the  Carafas)   by  Andrea 


46      Route  3.  NAPLES.  III.   The  Old  Town. 

da  Salerno,  freely  repainted ;  also  the  rococo  monument  of  General  Filippo 
Saluzzo  (d.  1852),  and  the  chaste  and  simple  monument  of  Galeotto  Carafa 
(d.  1513)  with  medallion.  —  2nd  Chap.:  Altar-piece  by  Agnolo  Franco; 
monument  of  Bishop  Bartolommeo  Brancaccio  (d.  1341). 

The  "Cappella  del  Ceocefisso  (the  7th)  contains  handsome  monu- 
ments of  the  15th  century.  The  altar  is  covered  with  Florentine  mosaic 
designed  by  Cosimo  Fansaga.  On  the  lower  part  of  the  altar  is  a  relief  of  the 
Miracle  of  the  Crucifix  by  Tommaso  de"  Slefani,  which  according  to  tradition, 
thus  addressed  Thomas  Aquinas :  'Bene  scripsisti  de  me,  Thoma :  quam  ergo 
mercedem  recipies?1  To  which  the  saint  replied :  'Non  aliam  nisi  te.'  Pictures 
on  each  side  of  the  altar:  on  the  right  Bearing  of  the  Cross,  on  the  left 
Descent  from  the  Cross  by  an  imitator  of  the  Flemish  style.  To  the  left  of 
the  altar  the  "Monument  of  Francesco  Carafa  (d.  1470)  by  Agnello  del  Fiore; 
on  the  opposite  side  another  by  the  same  master,  completed  by  Giovanni 
da  Nola.  The  small  side-chapel  contains  the  tomb  of  Ettore  Carafa, 
Conte  di  Ruvo  (d.  1511),  with  martial  emblems  and  arabesques.  The 
next  chapel  on  the  left  contains  the  Madonna  della  Rosa,  ascribed  to 
Maestro  Simone.  On  the  opposite  side  is  the  beautiful  "Monument  of 
Mariano  d'Alagni,  Count  Bucchianico,  and  his  wife  Catarinella  TJrsino  fd. 
1447),  by  Agnello  del  Fiore.  Adjacent  to  it  is  the  monument  of  Niccolo  di 
Sangro,  Principe  di  Fondi,  by  Domenico  d^Anria.  —  At  the  entrance  to  the 
sacristy,  monuments  of  various  members  of  the  family  of  Thomas  Aquinas. 

The  "Sacristy  has  a  ceiling-painting  by  Solimena ,  and  at  the  altar 
an  Annunciation ,  attributed  to  Andrea  da  Salerno.  Around  the  walls, 
above,  are  forty-five  large  wooden  sarcophagi  with  velvet  covers,  ten  of 
which  contain  the  remains  of  princes  of  the  house  of  Aragon.  Among  these 
are  Ferdinand  I.  (d.  1494) ;  Ferdinand  II.  (d.  1496) ;  his  aunt ,  Queen 
Johanna,  daughter  of  Ferdinand  I.  (d.  1518);  Isabella  (d.  1524),  daughter 
of  AlphonsoII.  and  wife  of  the  Duke  of  Milan,  etc.  Also  the  coffin  of  Fernando 
Francesco  d'Avalos,  Marchese  di  Pescara,  the  hero  of  Ravenna  and  Pavia, 
who  died  of  his  wounds  at  Milan  in  1525.  The  inscription  is  by  Ariosto. 
Above  the  tomb  are  suspended  his  portrait,  a  banner,  and  a  sword.  His 
wife  was  the  celebrated  Vittoria  Colonna,  who  after  his  death  sang  his 
praises  in  the  island  of  Ischia  (p.  106). 

In  the  S.  Transept  is  the  Monument  of  Galeazzo  Pandone  (d.  1514), 
by  Giovanni  da  Nola. 

From  the  S.  transept  a  door  leads  into  a  portion  of  the  older  church, 
which  also  contains  some  interesting  monuments,  particularly  that  of  the 
Rota  family,  by  Giovanni  da  Nola.  Here  also  is  the  side-entrance  men- 
tioned at  p.  45. 

The  High  Altar,  adorned  with  Florentine  mosaic,  is  by  Fansaga,  1652. 

In  the  rJ.  Transept,  above  the  chapel  of  the  Pignatelli,  are  the  monu- 
ments of  Giovanni  di  Durazzo  (d.  1323)  and  Filippo  di  Taranto  (d.  1335), 
sons  of  Charles  II.,  with  a  long  inscription  in  leonine  verse. 

N.  Aisle.  The  8th  Chapel  (S.  Maria  della  Neve;  contains  above  the  altar  a 
beautiful  "Haut-relief  with  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  attended  by  St.  Matthew 
and  St.  John,  the  best  work  of  Giovanni  da  Nola,  executed  in  1536.  Here,  to 
the  right,  is  also  the  monument  of  the  poet  Giambattista  Marini  of  Naples 
(d.  1625),  well  known  for  his  bombastic  style,  with  a  bust  by  Bartolommeo 
Viscontini.  —  7th  Chapel,  of  the  Ruffo  Bagnara  family:  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Catharine,  by  Leonardo  da  Pistoja;  tombs  of  Leonardo  Tomacelli  (d.  1529) 
and  of  Cardinal  Fabricio  Ruffo  (d.  1829)  who  acted  a  prominent  part  in 
the  events  of  1799.  —  6th  Chapel:  tombs  of  the  Carafa.  —  5th  Chapel:  of 
the  Andrea.  —  4th  Chapel :  tombs  of  the  Rota  family,  with  a  "Statue  of 
John  the  Baptist  by  Giovanni  da  Nola,  as  a  monument  to  the  poet  Bernar- 
dino Rota  (d.  1575),  with  figures  of  the  Arno  and  the  Tiber  by  Bomenico 
d'Auria  (1600).  —  3rd  Chapel,  to  the  left:  Martyrdom  of  St.  John  by 
Scipione  Gaelano;  tomb  of  Antonio  Carafa,  surnamed  Malizia  (d.  1438). — 
2nd  Chapel,  in  the  bad  taste  of  the  17th  cent. :  the  miracle-working  Ma- 
donna di  S.  Andrea.  —  1st  Chapel,  to  the  left,  by  the  entrance  (S.  Stefano): 
Christ  crowning  Joseph,  by  Luca  Giordano :  on  the  lateral  walls  an  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi,  by  a  Flemish  master;  Holy  Family,  ascribed  to  Andrea 
da  Salerno. 


E.  Quarters.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       47 

In  the  adjacent  monastery  the  celebrated  Thomas  Aquinas  lived  in  1272 
as  professor  of  philosophy  at  the  university  which  was  then  founded, 
and  his  lectures  were  attended  by  men  of  the  highest  rank,  and  even  the 
king  himself.  His  cell ,  now  a  chapel ,  and  his  lecture-room  still  exist. 
The  monastery  is  now  occupied  by  various  public  offices.  The  Accademiu 
Pontaniana,  founded  in  1471  by  the  learned  Giovanni  Pontano,  also 
meets  here. 

Ascending  the  Via  Mezzocannone  (p.  28),  which  leads  to  the  S. 
from  S.  Domenico,  and  then  following  the  third  cross-street  to  the 
right,  we  reach  the  Piazza  di  S.  Giovanni  Maggiore,  in  which  rises 
the  church  of  S.  Giovanni  Maggiore  (PL  F,  5),  recently  entire- 
ly rebuilt  in  consequence  of  a  collapse.  The  adjacent  chapel  of 
8.  Giovanni  de'  Pappacoda  possesses  a  handsome  Gothic  portal 
dating  from  1415.  —  The  small  church  of  S.  Maria  della  Pieth  de' 
Sangri ,  commonly  called  La  Cappella  Sansevero  (PL  F,  4),  is  now 
closed  and  difficult  of  access,  owing  to  the  demolition  of  the  Palazzo 
Sansevero,  to  which  it  belonged  as  the  burial-place  of  the  Sangro 
di  Sansevero  family.  The  marble  worts  in  this  chapel  —  Dead 
Christ  enveloped  in  a  winding-sheet,  Cecilia  Gaetani,  wife  of 
Antonio  di  Sangro,  as  Pudicitia,  and  the  'Man  in  the  Net',  by 
Giuseppe  Sammartino,  Ant.  Conradini,  and  Fran.  Queirolo,  —  ex- 
hibit all  the  bad  taste  of  18th  cent,  art,  its  tricky  effects  with  trans- 
parent garments,  its  artificiality,  etc.,  combined  at  the  same  time 
with  a  high  degree  of  technical  finish. 

We  now  return  to  the  Largo  S.  Domenico  (p.  45),  and  proceed 
to  the  N.  E.  by  the  Strada  Nilo  and  by  the  Strada  S.  Biagio  de'  Librai 
(p.  48)  farther  on.  Immediately  to  the  right  is  S.  Angelo  a  Nilo 
(PL  F,  4),  erected  in  1385;  to  the  right  of  the  high-altar  is  the 
♦Monument  of  the  founder  Cardinal  Brancacci  (d.  1428),  by  Dona- 
tello  and  Michelozzo ,  who  have  here  blended  the  Gothic  mon- 
umental character  with  the  new  style  of  the  Renaissance. 

The  VrA  dell'  Universita  (the  second  street  from  the  Piazza 
S.  Domenico  to  the  right)  descends  hence  to  the  right  to  the  not 
far  distant  — 

TJniversity  (PL  F,  4 ;  Regia  Universita  degli  Studj),  founded  in 
1224  by  the  Emp.  Frederick  II.,  reconstituted  in  1780  and  removed 
to  the  Jesuits'  College.  It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  Europe, 
and  possesses  five  faculties,  about  100  professorial  chairs,  a  library, 
and  natural  history  collections  of  which  the  mineralogical  is  the 
most  valuable.  It  is  attended  by  upwards  of  4000  students.  The 
library,  on  the  upper  floor,  to  the  right,  is  open  from  9  to  3  daily 
(librarian  Coram,.  Minervini).  The  Court  contains  a  few  busts  and 
the  statues  of  Pietro  della  Vigna,  chancellor  of  Frederick  II.,  Tho- 
mas Aquinas,  G.  B.  Vico,  and  Giordano  Bruno,  erected  in  1863.  An 
extensive  new  University  Building  in  the  new  quarter  near  the  Re- 
clusorio  (p.  41)  is  planned. 

Leaving  the  university  and  proceeding  in  a  straight  direction, 
we  reach  the  richly  decorated  church  of  SS.  Severino  e  Sosio  (PL  G, 
4),  in  the  Piazza  S.  Marcellino,  built  by  Mormandi  in  1490. 


48      Route  3.  NAPLES.  HI.  The  Old  Town. 

The  roof  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Corenzio,  who  is  interred  here, 
by  the  entrance  to  the  sacristy.  The  choir-stalls,  dating  from  the  end  oi 
the  15th  cent.,  are  beautifully  carved.  Adjoining  the  choir  to  the  right  is 
the  chapel  of  the  Sanseverini,  containing  three  monuments  pf  three  bro- 
thers, who  were  poisoned  by  their  uncle  in  1516,  works  of  Giovanni  da 
Nola.  In  a  chapel  near  the  choir,  to  the  right,  is  the  tomb  of  the 
historian  Carlo  Troya  (d.  1858).  In  the  N.  transept  are  the  monuments  oi 
Admiral  Vincenzo  Carafa  (d.  1611)  and  the  Duca  Francesco  de  Marmilis 
(d.  1649).  The  2nd  chapel  in  the  N.  aisle  contains  an  altar-piece  by  An- 
drea da  Salerno,  in  six  sections,  representing  the  Madonna  with  St.  Jus- 
tina  and  John  theBaplist.  By  the  entrance  to  the  sacristy,  in  the  chapel 
to  the  right,  the  'Tomb  of  a  child,  Andrea  Bonifacio,  ascribed  to  Giov.  da 
Nola;  opposite  to  it  is  that  of  Giambattista  Cicara,  by  the  same  master,  both 
with  inscriptions  by  Sannazaro. 

The  monastery  connected  with  this  church  has  since  1818  been 
the  depository  of  the  Archives  of  the  kingdom,  which  are  among 
the  most  valuable  in  the  world.  Frescoes  and  paintings  by  Corenzio 
adorn  the  interior.  The  40,000  parchment  MSS.  (the  oldest  of 
which  are  in  Greek)  date  from  703  onwards ,  and  include  the 
Norman,  Hohenstaufen,  Angevin,  Aragonese,  and  Spanish  periods. 
The  documents  of  the  Angevin  period,  380,000  in  number,  form  no 
fewer  than  378  volumes.  (Permission  to  inspect  them  must  be 
obtained  from  the  director  of  the  Archives,  the  historian  Comm. 
Bart.  Capasso.)  —  The  entrance  to  the  cloisters  is  by  a  gateway 
to  the  right  in  the  street  ascending  to  the  left  of  the  church.  We 
then  traverse  the  arcades  of  the  first  two  courts,  and  in  the  next 
we  shall  find  the  custodian  between  10  and  3  o'clock  (}/i-l  ft.). 
The  walls  of  the  cloisters  are  adorned  with  nineteen  *Fb,escobs, 
unfortunately  much  damaged  and  of  late  badly  restored,  represent- 
ing scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Benedict.  They  are  generally  ascribed 
to  Lo  Zingaro  and  his  supposed  pupils,  the  Donzelli  and  Simone  Papa, 
but  Messrs.  Crowe  and  Cavalcaselle  assign  them  to  a  painter  of 
Umbro-Florentine  origin.  The  best  of  the  series  is  that  in  grisaille 
representing  the  youthful  saint  on  his  way  to  Rome  with  his  father 
and  nurse.  The  others  were  probably  carried  out  by  assistants. 
(Best  light  in  the  forenoon.)  In  the  open  space  in  the  centre  is  a 
fine  plane-tree  which  is  said  to  have  been  planted  by  St.  Benedict, 
and  on  which  a  fig-tree  is  grafted. 

Returning  to  the  principal  street  (p.  47),  the  continuation  of 
which  is  called  the  Stbada  S.  Biagio  de'  Libkai  (PI.  F,  G,  4),  we 
pass  the  Monte  di  Pieta,  or  public  loan-establishment,  on  the  right, 
and  several  churches  and  palaces  of  little  importance.  After  about 
y4  M.  our  street  is  crossed  by  the  broad  Via  del  Duomo  (p.  53),  the 
left  branch  of  which  runs  N.  to  the  Strada  de'  Tribunali,  which 
leads  straight  to  the  Castel  Capuano  mentioned  below. 

We  continue  to  follow  the  Str.  S.  Biagio,  which  after  5  mill, 
divides  :  to  the  right  the  Str.  S.  Egiziaca  a  Forcella  leads  to  the  Porta 
Nolana  (p.  39);  to  the  left  is  the  Str.  dell'  Annunziata  with  the 
Church  of  the  Annunziata  (PI.  H,  4),  erected  in  1757-82  by  L.  Van- 
vitelli  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  church  dating  from  Robert  the  Wise 


E.  Quarters.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      49 

(frescoes   by  Corenzio ;   tomb  of  the  notorious  Queen  Johanna  II., 

d.  1435).  —  Adjoining  is  the  large  Casa  dei  Trovatelli,  or  Found- 
lings' Home,  shown  by  special  permission  only.  To  the  left  of  the 
entrance  is  the  niche  (now  built  up)  in  which  formerly  worked  the 
'ruota'  or  wheel  on  which  the  foundlings  were  placed.  Now  the 
children  are  received  inside  the  institution  and  the  names  of  the 
parents  ascertained.  Boys  Temain  in  the  home  until  7  years  old; 
girls,  if  unmarried,  frequently  spend  their  entire  life  here,  working 
as  sempstresses,  servants,  etc.  (their  embroidery  is  noted).  The 
income  of  the  home,  which  is  admirably  managed,  is  about 
400,000  francs.  It  is  the  popular  custom  to  visit  this  home  on 
April  24th  and  25th.  —  The  Str.  dell'  Annunziata  is  continued 
by  the  Str.  Maddalena,  which  leads  us  to  the  piazza  immediately 
within  the  Porta  Capuana.  On  our  right  here  is  the  gate  (see 
below) ;  opposite  us  is  the  church  of  S.  Caterina  a  Formello,  with 
a  dome  constructed  in  1523;  and  on  our  left  is  the  — 

Castel  Capuano  (PI.  Gr,  3),  usually  called  La  Vicaria,  found- 
ed by  William  I.  and  completed  by  Frederick  II.  in  1231  from  a 
design  by  Fuccio,  once  the  principal  residence  of  the  Hohenstaufen 
kings,  and  occasionally  that  of  the  Anjous.  In  1540  Don  Pedro  de 
Toledo  (p.  31)  transferred  the  different  courts  of  justice  to  this  pal- 
ace, where  they  remain  to  this  day.  A  visit  to  some  of  these  courts 
affords  the  traveller  a  good  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  Neapolitan  national  character.  A  prison  of  evil  repute  was 
formerly  situated  below  the  criminal  court.  The  chief  entrance  is 
on  the  other  side,  opposite  the  Via  de'  Tribunali  (p.  51). 

The  *Porta  Capuana  (PL  H,  3),  built  by  Ferdinand  I.  of  Aragon 
about  1484,  was  designed  by  the  Florentine  Giuliano  da  Maiano, 
and  is  one  of  the  finest  Renaissance  gateways  in  existence.  On  the 
entry  of  Charles  V.  in  1535  it  was  restored  and  decorated  with 
sculptures  on  the  outside  by  Giovanni  da  Nola.  Like  most  of  the 
other  gateways  at  Naples,  it  is  flanked  by  two  handsome  round  towers. 

Past  the  outside  of  this  gate  runs  the  Corso  Garibaldi  (PI.  H,  3,  4), 
which  extends  from  the  sea  to  the  Strada  Foria  (see  p.  41).  Near 
the  gate  is  the  station  of  the  branch-line  to  Nola-Baiano  (PI.  H,  3 ; 
p.  173),  close  beside  which  is  the  station  for  the  Aversa  and  Cai- 
vano  line  (see  p.  23). 

Outside  the  Porta  Capuana  stretch  the  verdant  and   fertile  Paduli  (i. 

e.  paludi  or  marshes),  a  district  about  20  sq.  M.  in  area,  the  kitchen- 
garden  of  Naples,  in  which  crops  succeed  each  other  in  continuous  rotation 
all  the  year  round.  About  3/t  M.  beyond  the  gate  the  tramway  (p.  23)  ends, 
opposite  the  extensive  Slaughter  Bouse,  at  the  — 

"Campo  Santo  Nuovo,  laid  out  in  1836,  adjoining  the  hill  called  Poggio 
Reale.  trom  the  lower  entrance  the  principal  avenue  leads  to  a  rectan- 
gular space,  containing  the  tombs  of  the  chief  Neapolitan  families.  The 
path  diverging  here  to  the  left  leads  to  a  good  point  of  view.  Farther 
up  the  principal  avenue  is  the  Church,  in  which  a  solemn  service  is  held 
on  All  Souls'  Day  (Nov.  2nd;  'Giorno  dei  Morti'J.  Through  the  open 
doorway  on  the  left  we  enter  the  colonnaded  Atrium  of  the  cemetery, 
in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  colossal  Statue  of  Religion,  by  Angelini.    The 

Baedeker.     Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  4 


50      Route  3.  NAPLES.  III.  The  Old  Town. 

cemetery  contains  numerous  chapels  erected  by  guilds  and  societies,  many 
of  them  in  the  shape  of  temples.  These  consist  of  two  apartments,  in  the 
lower  of  which  the  bodies  are  buried  for  about  18  months ,  until  they 
are  completely  parched  (not  decayed)  through  the  action  of  the  tufa  soil. 
They  are  then  removed  to  the  upper  apartment  and  placed  in  niches  covered 
with  marble  slabs. 

Leaving  the  cemetery  by  the  principal  gate  we  reach  the  road  from 
the  Eeclusorio  (p.  41).  In  this  road,  a  few  yards  farther  on,  to  the  left, 
is  the  Cimitero  della  Pield,  or  burial-ground  of  the  poor,  opened  in  18S8. 
This  cemetery,  which  is  laid  out  in  terraces,  resembles  a  huge  amphi- 
theatre. In  the  centre  stands  a  Pietd  in  marble,  and  at  the  top  of  the  hill 
is  a  chapel. 

The  well-kept  Protestant  Cemetery  {Cimitero  Protestante ;  PI.  H,  2) 
lies  on  the  road  to  the  Campo  Santo  Vecchio,  about  >/4  M.  from  the 
Porta  Capuana.  (Visitors  ring  at  the  gate,  'fa  fr.).  A  very  large  pro- 
portion of  the  names  observed  here  are  English,  German,  and  American 
(among  others  that  of  Mrs.  Somerville,  the  mathematician,  d.  1872). 

Starting  from  the  piazza  within  the  Porta  Capuana,  and  pass- 
ing in  front  of  the  church  of  S.  Caterina  (p.  49),  we  now  follow 
the  Strada  Carbonara  (PI.  Gr,  3),  which  leads  in  8  min.  to  the 
Strada  Foria(p.  41).  On  the  right,  at  the  point  where  the  street 
narrows,  a  broad  flight  of  45  steps  ascends  to  the  church  of  — 

*S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara  (PI.  G,  3),  erected  in  1344,  and 
enlarged  by  King  Ladislaus.      Entrance  by  a  side-door. 

The  "'Monument  of  King  Ladislaus  (d.  1414),  considered  the  master- 
piece of  Andrea  Ciccione,  erected  by  Johanna  II.,  the  king's  sister,  stands  at 
the  back  of  the  high-altar,  and  is  of  very  imposing  general  effect,  as  well 
as  carefully  executed  in  the  details.  Above  is  the  equestrian  statue  of 
Ladislaus ;  in  a  recess  below,  a  sarcophagus  with  the  king  in  a  recumbent 
posture,  receiving  the  benediction  of  a  bishop  (in  reference  to  the  removal 
of  the  excommunication  under  which  the  king  lay  at  his  death);  under- 
neath ,  Ladislaus  and  Johanna  ;  and  the  whole  is  supported  by  statues 
which  represent  the  virtues  of  the  deceased.  The  altar  was  restored  in  1746. 

The  Cappella  del  Sole,  behind  this  monument,  contains  the  "Tomb 
of  the  Grand  Seneschal  Sergianni  Caracciolo,  the  favourite  of  Johanna  II., 
murdered  in  1432 ,  also  by  Ciccione.  It  was  erected  by  his  son  Trojano, 
and  reveals  traces  of  the  dawn  of  the  Renaissance.  Inscription  by  Lorenzo 
Valla.  The  frescoes,  scenes  from  the  life  of  Mary,  are  by  Leonardo  di 
Bisuccio  of  Milan  (about  1450),  one  of  the  last  pupils  of  Giotto.  —  The 
Chapel  of  the  Caracciolo  Rosso,  to  the  left  of  the  high-altar,  a  circular 
temple  erected  and  ornamented  in  1516-57  from  the  designs  of  Girolarno 
Santacroce,  contains  statues  by  Qiov.  da  Nola,  Girol.  Santacroce,  and 
Pietro  della  Plata  (altar-reliefs),  and  the  monuments  of  Galeazzo  to  the  left, 
and  Colantonio  Caracciolo  opposite,  by  Scilla  and  Dom.  d'Auria  respectively. 

—  The  Sacristy  contains  fifteen  scenes  from  the  history  of  Christ  by 
Vasari,  1546  (much  injured).  —  Adjoining  the  entrance  to  the  sacristy  from 
the  church  is  a  Madonna  delle  Grazie,  a  handsome  statue  executed  in 
1571.  —  On  the  same  side,  farther  on,  is  ;a  large  altar  in  the  form  of  a 
chapel,  called  the  'Chapel  of  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  with  good 
Renaissance  sculptures  of  the  15th  cent.,  renewed  in  1619  by  Al.  Mirdbollo. 

—  The  above  list  by  no  means  exhausts  the  interesting  monuments  in  the 
church. 

The  Congregazione  di  S.  Monica,  with  a  separate  entrance  at  the  top 
of  the  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the  church ,  contains  the  monument  of 
Prince  Ferdinando  di  Sanseverino  by  Andreas  de  Plorentia. 

Near  S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara  was  once  the  arena  for  gladiator- 
combats,  of  which,  in  the  time  of  Johanna  I.  and  King  Andreas, 
Petrarch  was  a  horror-stricken  spectator. 

We  now  return  to  the  Castel  Capuano  (p.  49). 


E.  Quarters.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      51 

From  the  Piazza  de'  Tribunali,  opposite  the  principal  entrance 
to  the  Castel  Capuano,  the  busy  Stkada  de'  Tkibunali  (PI.  F,  G, 
3,  4)  leads  in  a  nearly  "W".  direction  towards  the  Toledo.  Follow- 
ing this  street,  we  pass  (on  the  left)  the  Gothic  entrance  of  the 
Ospedale  delta  Pace,  and  soon  reach  the  small  piazza  of  <S.  Gennaro 
on  the  right,  the  column  in  which  was  erected  after  the  appalling 
eruption  of  Vesuvius  in  1631  (p.  114)  to  commemorate  the  suc- 
cour rendered  by  St.  Januarius.  On  the  summit  is  the  bronze 
figure  of  the  saint  by  Finelli. 

We  next  ascend  the  stairs  to  the  cathedral  (principal  entrance 
in  the  new  Via  del  Duomo,  see  p.  53). 

The  *Cathedral  (PI.  G,  3),  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  Januarius 
(S.  Gennaro),  was  "begun  in  1272  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou  on  the 
site  of  a  temple  of  Neptune,  continued  by  Charles  II.  after  1294, 
and  completed  by  Robert,  grandson  of  the  founder,  in  1314.  It  is 
in  the  French-Gothic  style,  with  lofty  towers  and  pointed  arches. 
The  freely  modernized  principal  facade  of  1299,  the  portal  of  which 
dates  from  1407,  is  at  present  undergoing  restoration,  and  is  being 
provided  with  towers.  In  1456  the  church  was  nearly  destroyed  by 
an  earthquake,  but  was  afterwards  rebuilt  by  Alphonso  I.  During 
the  17th  and  18th  centuries  it  underwent  frequent  alterations  and 
restorations,  but  it  still  retains  many  of  its  original  characteristics. 
The  edifice  is  a  basilica,  the  aisles  of  which  have  a  Gothic  vaulting. 

Interior.  The  ceiling-paintings  of  the  Nave  are  by  Santa/ede  (the  square 
ones)  and  Vincenzo  da  Forti  (oval) ;  the  frescoes  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
lateral  walls  are  by  Luca  Giordano  and  his  pupils,  St.  Cyril  and  St.  Chryso- 
stom  are  by  Solimena.  Over  the  principal  entrance  are  the  tombs  of  (1.) 
Charles  I.  of  Anjou  and  (r.)  Charles  Martel,  King  of  Hungary,  eldest  son  of 
Charles  II.  and  his  wife  Clementia,  a  daughter  of  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg, 
restored  by  the  viceroy  Olivarez  in  1599.  Above  the  side-doors  are  paint- 
ings by  Vasari  (1546),  representing  David  playing  the  harp,  and  the 
patron-saints  of  Naples;  the  heads  are  portraits  of  Pope  Paul  III.  and  other 
members  of  the  Farnese  family. 

In  the  S.  Aisle  is  the  "Chapel  of  St.  Januarius  (the  3rd),  commonly 
known  as  the  Cappella  del  Tesoro ,  adorned  with  a  marble  facade  and 
magnificent  large  brazen  doors.  On  the  right  and  left  are  two  lofty 
columns  of  greenish  marble,  and  above  is  the  inscription:  'Divo  Janua- 
rio,  e  fame  bello,  peste,  ac  Vesuvi  igne  miri  ope  sanguinis  erepta  Nea- 
polis,  civi  patrono  vindici.'  The  chapel  was  erected  in  consequence  of  a 
vow  made  during  the  plague  in  1527.  The  work  was  begun  in  1608  and  com- 
pleted in  1637  at  a  cost  of  a  million  ducats  (about  225,0002.).  The  best 
time  to  see  it  is  shortly  before  12,  the  hour  when  the  church  closes. 

The  interior  of  the  chapel,  which  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  is 
richly  decorated  with  gold  and  marble,  and  contains  eight  altars,  forty-two 
columns  of  broccatello,  magnificent  doors ,  five  oil-paintings  on  copper  Dy 
Domenichino,  and  several  frescoes  from  the  life  of  St.  Januarius.  J.ne  nrst 
four  representations,  however,  alone  (tomb  of  the  saint ;  his  martyrdom  ;  re- 
suscitation of  a  youth;  sick  persons  healed  by  oil  from  a  lamp  whicli  Iiaa 
hung  before  the  tomb  of  the  saint)  are  entirely  by  Domemchmo  who  a  ong 
with  Guido  Reni  and  Lanfranco,  intimidated  by  the  threats  of  their  jealous 
Neapolitan  rivals,  Spagnoletto  and  Corenzio  ,  abandoned  the  task  oi  paint- 
ing  the  dome.  -  The  Sacristy  of  the  Tesoro  contains  pictures  by  Stan- 
zioni  and  Luca  Giordano;  a Mostly  collection  of  ecclesiastical  vestments 
and  sacred  vessels-  the  silver  bust  of  St.  Januarius,  executed  for  Charles  II. 
k ,1306 ^.t'ote  busts   in  silver  of   the  patron  -  saints  of  the  city 


52      Route  3.  NAPLES.  III.  The  Old  Town. 

and  other  valuable  relics.  —  In  the  tabernacle  of  the  high-altar,  which  is 
adorned  with  a  carefully  covered  relief  in  silver  representing  the  arrival 
of  the  saint's  remains,  are  preserved  two  vessels  containing  the  Blood 
of  St.  Januarius,  Bishop  of  Benevento ,  who  suffered  martyrdom  under 
Diocletian  in  305  (comp.  p.  95).  The  liquefaction  of  the  blood,  which 
according  to  the  legend  took  place  for  the  first  time  when  the  body  was 
brought  to  Naples  by  Bishop  St.  Severus  in  the  time  of  Constantine,  is 
the  occasion  of  the  greatest  festival  of  Naples  and  takes  place  three  times 
annually  during  several  successive  days  (1st  Saturday  in  May,  in  the 
evening,  19th  Sept.,  and  16th  Dec,  between  9  and  10  a.  m.).  According 
as  the  liquefaction  is  rapid  or  slow  it  is  considered  a  good  or  evil  omen 
for  the  ensuing  year.  Travellers  by  applying  to  the  Sagrestano  may  often 
secure  a  good  place  near  the  altar  during  the  solemnity. 

In  the  S.  aisle,  farther  on,  is  the  Cappella  Bkancia  (the  5th),  which 
contains  the  handsome  tomb  of  Cardinal  Carbone  (d.  1405)  by  Ant.  Ba- 
boccio.  —  In  the  S.  Trahsept  is  the  chapel  of  the  Caraccioli,  with  the 
monument  of  Cardinal  Bernardino  Caraccioli  (d.  1268). 

At  the  back  of  the  transept,  to  the  right,  is  the  entrance  to  the 
"Cappella  Minotoli  (open  6-8  a.m.  only),  in  the  Gothic  style,  the  upper 
part  adorned  with  paintings  by  Tommaso  degli  Stefani  in  the  13th  cent, 
(frequently  retouched),  the  lower  part  by  an  unknown  master;  over  the 
principal  altar,  monument  of  Card.  Arrigo  Minutoli  (d.  1412),  with  a 
relief  of  the  Virgin  andApostles;  other  tombs  of  the  14th  and  15th  cent.; 
triptych  of  the  Trinity  on  the  altar  to  the  left,  a  good  early  Sienese  work. 
—  The  adjoining  Cappella  Toooa  contains  the  tomb  of  St.  Asprenas,  one 
of  the  first  bishops  of  Naples. 

Beneath  the  high-altar  (staircase  to  the  right,  with  brazen  doors)  is 
the  richly  decorated  "Confessio  ,  or  crypt ,  with  ancient  columns  and 
beautiful  marble  covering ,  containing  the  tomb  of  St.  Januarius.  The 
tasteful  ornamentation ,  by  Tomaso  Malvito  of  Como  (1504) ,  should  he 
remarked.  Facing  the  shrine,  to  the  left,  is  the  kneeling  figure  of  Car- 
dinal Oliviero  Carafa ,  who  erected  the  chapel  in  1492-1506,  probably  also 
by  Malvito.  —  Fresco  on  the  ceiling  of  the  choir  by  Domenichino,  the 
Adoration  of  the  Angels. 

The  Gothic  chapel  of  the  Capece  Galeota,  to  the  left  of  the  high-altar, 
contains  a  painting  of  Christ  between  St.  Januarius  and  St.  Athanasius, 
15th  century. 

In  the  N.  Transept,  by  the  door  of  the  sacristy,  are  the  tombs  of  (r.) : 
Innocent  IV.  (d.  1254  at  Naples),  erected  by  the  Archbishop  Umberto  di 
Montorio  in  1318 ,  restored  in  the  16th  cent. ;  Andreas,  King  of  Hungary, 
who  was  murdered  by  his  queen  Johanna  I.  at  Aversa,  as  the  inscription 
records :  'Andrese  Caroli  TJberti  Pannoniee  regis  f.  Neapolitanorum  regi 
Joannse  uxoris  dolo  laqueo  necato  Ursi  Minutili  pietate  hie  recondite' ;  (1.) : 
Pope  Innocent  XII.  (Pignatelli  of  Naples ;  d.  1696). 

In  the  N.  Aisle,  near  the  transept,  is  the  Cappella  de'  Seripandi, 
adorned  with  an  Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  by  Pietro  Perugino  (?;  1460).  — 
We  next  reach  the  entrance  to  Santa  Restituta  (see  below).  —  In  the  2nd 
chapel :  Entombment,  a  relief  by  Giovanni  da  Nola ;  above  it,  Unbelief  of 
Thomas,  a  painting  by  Marco  da  Siena.  —  In  the  vicinity  (in  the  nave)  is 
the  Font,  an  ancient  basin  of  green  basalt,  with  Bacchanalian  thyrsi  and  masks. 

Adjoining  the  cathedral  on  the  left,  and  entered  from  it  by  a  door 
in  the  left  aisle  (when  closed,  fee  1/2  fir.),  1S  the  church  of  "Santa  Resti- 
tuta, a  basilica  with  pointed  arcbes,  occupying  the  site  of  a  temple_  of 
Apollo,  to  which  it  is  probably  indebted  for  the  ancient  Corinthian 
columns  in  the  nave.  This  was  the  cathedral  of  Naples  prior  to  the 
erection  of  the  larger  church.  The  foundation,  erroneously  attributed  to 
Constantine  the  Great,  dates  from  the  7th  century.  When  the  cathedral 
was  built  this  church  was  shortened,  and  in  the  17th  cent,  it  was  restored. 
In  the  Chapel  S.  Maria  del  Principio,  at  the  end  of  the  left  aisle,  is  a  "Mo- 
saic of  the  Virgin  with  St.  Januarius  and  Sta.  Restituta,  restored  in  1322, 
and  considered  the  earliest  in  Naples  ;  whence  the  name  'del  Principio'.  On 
the  lateral  walls  two  remarkable  bas-reliefs  from  an  altar-screen,  supposed 
to  date  from  the  8th  cent.,  each  in  fifteen  compartments  ;  to  the  left  the  his- 


E.  Quarters.  NAPLES.  .3.  Route.      53 

tory  of  Joseph  ;  to  the  right  above,  St.  Januarius,  then  Samson ;  beneath 
St.  George.  —  At  the  back  of  the  high-altar  the  'Virgin  with  St.  Michael 
and  Sta.  Bestituta,    by  Silvestro  Buono  (?),   a  good  work  of  a  mixed  Urn- 

brian  and    Neapolitan    style    (forged   inscription;    painted   after  1500).  

The  snjall  dome  of  the  chapel  S.  Giovanni  in  Fonte  (closed)  to  the  right, 
said  to  have  been  erected  by  Constantine  in  333,  formerly  the  baptistery 
of  the  church,  is  adorned  with  old,  but  frequently  restored  mosaics 
(7th  cent.)  of  Christ,  the  Virgin,  etc. 

The  principal  facade  of  the  cathedral  (portal,  see  p.  51),  which 
is  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  looks  towards  the  new  and  broad 
Via  del  Duomo  (PI.  F,  G,  3,  4),  a  street  diverging  from  the  Strada 
Foria  (p.  41)  and  running  nearly  parallel  with  the  Toledo.  Many 
of  the  densely  packed  houses  of  the  old  town  were  demolished  to 
make  way  for  this  street,  which  extends  down  to  the  sea.  —  Adjoining 
the  cathedral,  on  the  right  as  we  leave  the  church,  is  the  extensive 
Archiepiscopal  Palace  (PI.  G,  3),  erected  in  the  13th  cent.,  and  en- 
tirely restored  by  Cardinal  Filomarino  in  1647.  The  principal  facade 
looks  to  the  Piazza  Donna  Regina. 

In  the  Str.  Anticaglia  (PL  F,  G,  3)  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
Theatre,  in  which  the  emperor  Nero  appeared  as  an  actor,  once 
apparently  of  considerable  extent,  of  which  two  arches  still  exist. 

On  the  right  in  the  Via  del  Duomo  is  the  Falazzo  Cuomo  (PL 
G,  4),  an  imposing  early-Renaissance  building  of  the  end  of  the  15th 
cent.,  erected  for  Ang.  Como,  probably  by  Florentine  artists.  The 
original  site  being  in  the  line  of  the  Strada  del  Duomo,  the  palace 
was  taken  down,  the  stones  being  marked,  and  was  carefully  re-erect- 
ed here  in  1882-86,  and  opened  as  the  Museo  Civico  Filangieri, 
presented  to  the  town  by  Prince  Gaetano  Filangieri.  Adm.  daily  10.30- 
2,'/2-l  fr.,  Tues.  &  Sat.  free.  The  detailed  catalogue  also  contains 
a  historical  sketch  of  the  palace  and  museum. 

The  large  vestibule  on  the  Ground  Floor,  adorned  by  mosaics  by 
Salviati  in  the  style  of  the  14th  cent.,  contains  antiques  and  weapons, 
including  an  Aragonese  breech-loading  field-piece  of  the  15th  century.  — 
A  winding  staircase  ascends  to  the  First  Floor,  which  forms  a  tasteful 
exhibition-hall,  with  a  gallery  lighted  from  above.  Here  are  artistic 
weapons  of  the  16-18th  cent.,  two  Italian  chests  of  the  16th  cent.,  gems, 
enamels  (in  Case  xxv.,  Nos.  1023,  1025  are  by  Jean  III.  Penicaud.  the  chief 
Limoges  master),  and  about  60  paintings.  Among  the  last  are:  :,1489. 
Bern.  Luini,  Madonna  with  the  donor,  a  lady  of  the  Bentivoglio  family; 
1466.  Bern.  Lanini  (?),  Madonna;  Pordeno'ne,  Descent  from  the  Cross; 
Spagnolelto,  1440.  St.  Mary  of  Egypt,  1455.  Head  of  John  the  Baptist;  San- 
dro  Botticelli,  Portrait  (wrongly  attributed  to  Dom.  Ghirlandaj  o) ;  14C9. 
J.  van  Eyck  (?),  Madonna;  1446.  Tan  Dyck,  Crucifixion;  and  other  Nether- 
landish works.  —  In  the  gallery  are  some  fine  Italian  majolicas,  porce- 
lain from  Capodimonte,  etc. ;  silver  vessels. 


We  now  return  to  the  Strada  db'  Tkibunali.  After  a  few  paces, 
we  observe  the  small  Piazza  Qerolomini  on  the  right,  with  the  church 
of  S.  Filippo  Neri  (PI.  G,  3),  or  de'  Qerolomini,  erected  in  1592- 
1619,  and  overladen  with  ornament,  now  somewhat  dilapidated. 

Over  the  principal  entrance:  Christ  and  the  money-changers,  a  large 
fresco  by  Luca  Giordano;  high-altar-piece  by  Giovanni  Bernardino  Siciliano; 
lateral   paintings   by  Corenzio.     The   sumptuous  chapel  of  S.  Filippo  Neri, 


54      Route  3.  NAPLES.  ///.   The  Old  Town. 

to  the  left  of  the  high-altar,  contains  a  ceiling-fresco  by  Solimena ;  and  that 
of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  (4th  chap,  to  the  left)  a  painting  by  Guido  Reni. 
Near  the  latter,  at  the  base  of  a  pillar  in  the  nave,  is  the  tombstone  of 
the  learned  Giambattista  Vico,  b.  at  Naples  1670,  d.  1744.  The  sacristy 
(entrance  to  the  left)  contains  paintings  by  Andrea  da  Salerno,  Corrado, 
Domenichino,  Salimbeni,  Guido  Reni,  and  others. 

To  the  right,  farther  on,  is  situated  S.  Paolo  Maggiore  (PI.  F,  4), 
approached  by  a  lofty  flight  of  steps,  and  built  in  1590  by  the 
Theatine  Orimaldi  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  of  Castor  and 
Pollux.  The  beautiful  portico  of  the  temple  remained  in  situ  till 
it  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1688,  and  two  Corinthian 
columns  with  part  of  the  architrave  are  still  to  be  seen.  The 
church  contains  numerous  decorations  in  marble,  and  paintings  by 
Corenzio,  Stanzioni,  Marco  da  Siena,  and  Solimena.  The  Cloisters 
are  borne  by  twenty-four  ancient  granite  columns.  During  the  Ro- 
man period  this  was  the  central  point  of  the  city. 

In  the  small  piazza  in  front  of  S.  Paolo,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Strada  de'  Tribunali,  to  the  left,  stands  the  church  of  *S.  Lorenzo 
(PL  G,  4),  begun  in  the  Gothic  style  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou  in 
1266,  to  commemorate  his  victory  over  King  Manfred  at  Benevento 
(p.  205),  and  completed  by  Robert  I.  in  1324.  The  site  is  that  of 
the  ancient  Basilica  Augustalis.  The  portal  and  the  choir  only  are 
of  the  Gothic  period,  the  nave  having  been  almost  entirely  rebuilt 
in  the  16th  century.  The  choir,  with  its  ambulatory  and  gaTland 
of  chapels  in  the  northern  style,  was  probably  designed  by  a 
French  architect.    The  belfry  beside  the  church  dates  from  1487. 

Interior.  The  large  picture  over  the  chief  entrance,  Jesus  and  St. 
Francis,  is  by  Tincenzo  Corso.  —  The  Coronation  of  King  Robert  by  St. 
Louis  of  Toulouse,  with  a  predella  (signed),  in  the  7th  chapel  to  the  right 
is  by  Simone  di  Martino  of  Siena.  The  same  chapel  contains  the  relics  of 
some  frescoes  in  the  Sienese  style.  —  St.  Anthony  of  Padua,  in  the  chapel 
of  that  saint  in  the  N.  transept,  on  a  gold  ground,  and  St.  Francis  as  the 
founder  ot  his  Order  (ascribed  to  Zingaro),  in  the  chapel  of  St.  Francis  in 
the  S.  transept,  both  show  traces  of  Flemish  influence.  The  three  statues 
of  St.  Francis,  St.  Lawrence,  and  St.  Anthony,  and  the  'Reliefs  on  the  high- 
altar  are  by  Giovanni  da  Nola  (1478).  —  In  the  retro-choir  behind  the 
high-altar,  entering  to  the  right,  are  the  monuments  of:  (1)  Catherine  of 
Austria ,  first  wife  of  Charles,  Duke  of  Calabria  (d.  1323) ,  with  a  pyra- 
midal canopy  and  adorned  with  mosaics ;  (2)  Johanna  di  Durazzo,  daughter 
of  Charles  of  Durazzo,  and  her  husband  Robert  of  Artois,  both  of  whom 
died  of  poison  on  the  same  day,  20th  July,  1387;  below  are  three  Virtues, 
above  them  two  angels  drawing  aside  the  curtain.  Then,  in  a  closed  space: 
(3)  Mary,  the  young  daughter  of  Charles  of  Durazzo,  killed  at  Aversa  in  1347. 
By  the  entrance  of  the  church,  on  the  right,  is  the  tombstone  of  the  naturalist 
Giambattista  della  Porta  (1550-1616). 

The  monastery  connected  with  the  church,  now  used  as  barracks, 
was  once  the  seat  of  the  municipal  authorities,  a  fact  recalled  by  the 
coloured  arms  of  the  different  Sedili,  or  quarters  of  the  town,  which  are 
still  above  the  entrance  from  the  street.  The  Cloisters,  which  we  reach 
by  turning  to  the  left  in  the  entrance-passage  ,  contain  the  tomb  of  Lu- 
dovico  Aldemoresco,  by  Baboccio  (1414).  In  1343  Petrarch  resided  in  this 
monastery;  and  Boccaccio,  when  in  the  church  of  S.  Lorenzo,  beheld  the 
beautiful  princess  whose  praises  he  has  sung  under  the  name  of  Fiam- 
metta. 

In  the  direction  of  the  Toledo,   to  the  left,  is  situated  S.  Pietro 


IV.  Museum.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       55 

a  Maiella  (PL  F,  4),  in  the  Gothic  style,  erected  by  Giovanni  Pi- 
pino  di  Barletta,  the  favourite  of  Charles  II.  (d.  1316;  his  tomb 
is  in  the  left  transept),  but  afterwards  altered.  In  the  adjacent 
monastery  is  established  the  Conservatorium  of  Music  (R.  Collegio  di 
Musica),  founded  in  1537,  which  has  sent  forth  a  number  of  cele- 
brated composers  (e.g.  Bellini),  and  was  long  presided  overby  Mer- 
cadante.  A  number  of  valuable  MSS.  of  Paesiello,  Jomelli,  Pergo- 
lese,  and  other  eminent  masters  are  preserved  here.  The  adjoining 
Piazza  di  S.  Maria  di  Costantinopoli  is  embellished  with  a  Statue 
of  Bellini.  —  Through  the  Porta  Alba  we  reach  the  Piazza  Dante 
on  the  Toledo  (see  p.  40). 

IV.  The  Museum. 
In  the  upper  part  of  the  town ,  in  the  prolongation  of  the 
Toledo ,  at  the  point  where  a  street  leading  to  the  Piazza  Cavour 
diverges  to  the  right  (comp.  p.  41 ;  l4/4  M.  from  the  Piazza  del  Ple- 
hiscito  ;  omnibus  and  tramway  thence,  see  pp.  22,  23 ,  steam-tram- 
way from  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  see  p.  23),  rises  the  — 

**Museo  Nazionale  (PL  E,  F,  3).  It  was  erected  in  1586  by  the 
viceroy  Duke  of  Ossuna  as  a  cavalry-barrack,  and  in  1615  ceded  by 
Count  Lemos  to  the  university,  which  was  established  there  until 
1780,  when  it  was  transferred  to  the  Gesu  Vecchio.  Since  1790  it 
has  been  fitted  up  for  the  reception  of  the  royal  collection  of  antiquities 
and  pictures ,  to  which  in  1816  Ferdinand  I.  gave  the  name  of 
Museo  Reale  Borbonico.  Here  are  united  the  collections  belonging 
to  the  crown,  the  Farnese  collection  from  Rome  and  Parma,  those 
of  the  palaces  of  Portici  and  Capodimonte,  and  the  excavated  treas- 
ures of  Herculaneum,  Pompeii,  Stabiae,  and  Cumse.  These  united 
collections  now  form  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world;  the  Pompeian 
antiquities  and  objects  of  art  in  particular,  as  well  as  the  bronzes 
from  Herculaneum,  are  unrivalled.  + 

The  present  director  is  Oiulio  de  Petra,  t<j  whose  predecessor 
Giuseppe  Fiorelli  is  due  the  general  arrangement  of  the  museum 
as  it  now  stands.  Unimportant  alterations  are ,  however,  still 
occasionally  made,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  give  here  an  ab- 
solutely accurate  enumeration  of  the  contents.  No  Catalogue  has 
yet  been  published  except  for  the  coins,  the  weapons,  and  the  in- 
scriptions; but  we  may  mention  the  '  Guide  General  du  Musee 
National'  which  has  been  published  by  Dom.  Monaco,  the  con- 
servator of  the  museum,  and  which  will  be  found  useful  in  several 
respects  (sold  at  the  book-shops,   price  5  fr.). 

The  Entrance  is  in  the  street  leading  from  the  Toledo  to  the 
Piazza  Cavour,   opposite  the   Galleria  Principe  di  Napoli  (p.  41). 


t  The  following  letters  indicate  the  origin  of  the  different  objects; 
B.  Borgia  collection,  C.  Capua,  G.  A.  Amphitheatre  of  Capua,  Cu.  Cumse, 
F.  Farnese  collection,  H.  Herculaneum,  L.  Lucera,  M.  Minturnse,  N.  Naples, 
P.  Pompeii,  Pz.  Pozzuoli,  S.  Stabise. 


56      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

The  Museum  is  open  daily,  except  on  national  holidays  (see  p.  xxii), 
May  to  Oct.  9-3,  Nov.  to  April  10-4  o'clock ;  on  Sundays  (10-1) 
gratis,  on  other  days  admission  1  ft. ;  gratuities  forbidden.  Sticks 
and  umbrellas  must  be  given  up  at  the  Oarderobe,  to  the  left  in  the 
gateway.  Tickets  are  obtained  on  the  right;  pass-out  checks  are 
supplied  to  visitors  temporarily  leaving  the  Museum  for  lunch,  etc. 
The  officials,  most  of  whom  speak  French,  readily  give  information. 

Permission  to  copy  or  study ,  which  is  always  accorded  to  artists  and 
archaeologists,  is  obtained  by  strangers  on  showing  their  passports  at  the 
Segreteria  (entered  by  the  second  door,  on  the  third  floor;  public  en- 
trance to  the  library  on  the  first  floor,  p.  74),  where  a  similar  permission 
may  be  procured  for  Pompeii  and  Psestnm.  Free  tickets  for  Pompeii 
(p.  119)  are  also  to  be  had  here. 

The  following  is  a  sketch  of  the  general  arrangements :  — 

A.    Gkoond  Floor  (comp.  Plan,  p.  70). 
Right  Side :  Ancient  Frescoes  (see  below) ;  beyond  them,  Inscriptions  and  several 
large  sculptures   (p.  5J);   then   the   Canova  Room;   Chinese 
Collection  (p.  61);  Egyptian  Antiquities  (p.  61). 
Left  Side  :      Ancient  Marble  Staines  (p.  61);  beyond  them,  the  Large  Bronzes 
(P-  67). 

B.  Entresol. 

Right  Side:   Ancient  Frescoes  (p.  69);   Ancient  Terracottas  (p.  69). 
Left  Side:      Cumaean  Antiquities  (p.  70);  Renaissance  Objects  (p.  70);   En- 
gravings (p.  70). 

C.   TJppek  Flook  (comp.  Plan,  p.  71). 
Right  Side:    Copies  of  Pompeian  Pictures  (p.  70),   Articles    of  Food  from 
Pompeii  (p.  71);  Papyri  (p.  71);  Pictures  (p.  71;  1st  section). 
Immediately  opposite:  Library  (p.  74). 

Left  Side:      Ancient  Glass  (p.  74);  Coins  (p.  74) ;  Pictures  (p.  74;  Neapolitan 

and  foreign);  Museum  Santangelo  (p.  76)  and  Vases  (p.  76); 

Small  Bronzes  (p.  78);  Qold  and  Silver  Ornaments  and  Gems 

(p.  79). 

The  following  description  begins  with  the  right  or  E.  side  of  each  floor. 

A.     Ground  Floor. 

Leaving  the  entrance-gateway,  we  pass  through  a  glass-door, 
where  tickets  are  given  up,  into  a  large  Vestibule  with  sev- 
eral ancient  statues  from  the  Farnese  collection.  At  the  end  of 
the  vestibule  are  the  stairs  ascending  to  the  upper  floors  (pp.  70 
et  seq.).  —  The  following  are  the  most  interesting  statues  in  the 
vestibule :  On  the  right,  by  the  entrance,  Alexander  Severus ;  left, 
a  Melpomene  from  the  theatre  of  Pompey  at  Rome,  erroneously 
restored  as  Urania.  By  the  staircase,  right,  Flora ;  left,  Genius  of 
the  city  of  Rome.  At  each  of  the  two  doors  leading  to  the  court  are 
four  figures  with  the  toga;  by  the  staircase  two  river-gods. 

The  **  Collection  of  Ancient  Frescoes  (Affreschi  Pompeiani) 
from  Herculaneum  ,  Pompeii,  Stabiffi,  etc.,  which  we  first  visit, 
occupies  the  right  half  of  the  ground-floor.  These  paintings  oc- 
cupy seven  rooms  and  a  corridor ,  being  grouped  in  accordance 
with  their  subjects,  and  each  group  is  furnished  with  a"  Roman 
numeral.    These  works  (along  with  those  found  at  Rome)  are,  with 


Ground  Floor,  E.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       57 

the  exception  of  painted  vases  and  mosaics,  almost  the  only  spe- 
cimens of  ancient  painting  which  have  come  down  to  us,  and  are 
therefore  of  extreme  value.  They  are  our  sole  informants  with  regard 
to  the  ancient  style,  colouring,  and  treatment  of  light  and  shade. 
Many  of  them  are  beautifully  conceived,  and  executed  with  an  easy, 
masterly  touch,  and  they  include  landscapes ,  historical  and  mytho- 
logical subjects  ,  genrepaintings,  architectural  drawings,  and  animal 
and  fruit-pieces.  Although  mere  decorative  paintings  of  a  small 
provincial  Roman  town,  they  suffice  to  show  how  thoroughly  the 
profession  was  imbued  with  artistic  principles .  Some  of  the  represen- 
tations may  be  copies  from  celebrated  or  favourite  pictures,  but  the 
style  is  such  as  entirely  to  preclude  the  idea  that  they  were  mechanic- 
ally copied  or  stencilled.  The  rapid,  easy  execution  and  absence 
of  minute  detail  prove  that  they  were  intended  for  effect,  and  not 
for  close  inspection.  Their  state  of  preservation  of  course  varies 
greatly  (comp.  Introd.,  pp.  xli-xlv). 

I.  Room  (immediately  to  the  right  of  the  place  where  tickets  are 
given  up ;  1st  door),  a  long  corridor  :  Architectural  mural  decorations. 
Those  on  the  left  side,  the  farther  end,  and  the  farther  part  of  the 
right  wall  are  nearly  all  from  the  Temple  of  Isis  at  Pompeii. 

II.  Room  :  Animals,  fruit,  still-life,  attributes  of  gods,  etc.  — 
We  now  return  through  the  1st  Room  to  the  principal  collection. 

The  following  rooms  contain  the  mythological  and  genre  re- 
presentations. Their  enumeration  is  in  the  order  denoted  by  the 
Roman  numerals  above  on  the  walls. 

III.  Room  :  xv.  *Girl  gathering  flowers.  Two  heads  of  Medusa, 
xvi-xviii.  Sea-gods.  In  the  corner  a  *Nereid  on  a  sea-panther.  By 
the  window-wall  Rape  of  Hylas  by  the  nymphs ;  Phryxus  and  Helle  ; 
the  Three  Divisions  of  the  Globe.  Two  glazed  tables  exhibit  a 
well-arranged  collection  of  colours  found  at  Pompeii,  xx.  Sacrifice 
to  the  Lares :  in  the  centre  the  genius  of  the  family  sacrificing, 
while  a  servant  brings  the  swine  destined  as  the  offering ;  on  the 
right  and  left,  two  Lares;  the  two  serpents  on  the  altar  symbolize 
the  Lares  (comp.  p.  122).  —  Beneath,  Bacchanalian  scenes.  —  xxi, 
xxii.  Sacrifice  to  Isis  and  scenes  in  the  Egyptian  style,  from  the 
Temple  of  Isis  at  Pompeii.  —  In  the  passage  to  the  following  room  : 
xxiv.  Ulysses  carrying  off  the  Palladium  from  Troy  ;  under  it,  Scipio 
and  the  dying  Sophonisbe.  —  In  the  second  passage:  xxvi.  *Medea 
brooding  over  the  murder  of  her  children ;  below ,  Medea  with 
her  children  and  their  tutor.  Opposite:  xxvii.  Meleagerand  Atalante. 

IV.  Room  :  (1.)  xxviii.  *Hercules  supported  by  Priapus  and 
Omphale.  xxviii,  xxix.  Perseus  releasing  Andromeda,  xxx.  (be- 
low) Hercules,  Dejanira,  and  the  Centaur  Nessus.  xxxi.  *Hercules 
finding  his  infant  son  Telephus  suckled  by  the  hind ;  the  dignified 
figure  on  the  rock  represents  Arcadia  in  the  guise  of  a  local  deity 
(from  Herculaneum).  Wounded  ./Eneas.  —  In  the  passage  to  the 
room  of  the  mosaics :   xxxii.     The  infant  Hercules  strangling  the 


58      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

snakes  sent  by  Juno,  xxxiii.  *Four  important  scenes  from  Hercula- 
neum :  Triumphant  actor,  with  his  mask  exhibited  as  a  votive  offer- 
ing; Achilles  and  Antilochus  (or  Patroclus);  Concert;  Attiring  of  a 
bride.  Also  genre-scenes  from  Pompeii  (woman  painting,  etc.).  — 
xxxiv.  Admetus  and  Alcestis  receiving  the  answer  of  the  oracle.  — 
In  the  passage  :  xxxv.  Comedy  scenes,  xxxvi.  Chastisement  of  Dirce 
(same  subject  as  the  Farnese  Bull,  p.  60).  Phsedra  and  Hippolytus. 
Cimon  nourished  from  the  breast  of  his  daughter  Pero  (a  favourite 
subject  with  modern  artists,  known  as  'Caritas  Romana').  — xxxvii. 
Theseus  after  the  slaughter  of  the  Minotaur,  xxxviii.  Scenes  from 
the  forum  of  Pompeii :  in  the  centre,  School  (chastisement  of  a 
pupil);  Baker's  Shop;  Small  caricature  of  iEneas,  Anchises,  and 
Ascanius,  represented  with  dogs'  heads  ;  pensive  maiden.  Several 
admirable  busts  of  youthful  subjects,  two  of  which  (to  the  left), 
representing  a  Pompeian  baker  and  his  wife,  recur  more  than  once, 
xxxix.  *Abduction  of  Briseis  from  the  tent  of  Achilles.  *Achilles 
being  taught  the  lyre  by  Chiron.  Ulysses  unrecognised  by  Penelope. 
Achilles  recognised  at  Scyros.  —  xl.  Sacrifice  of  Iphigenia,  who 
raises  her  hands  supplicating  assistance  from  Artemis,  visible  among 
the  clouds.  *Orestes  and  Pylades  in  presence  of  Iphigenia  at 
Tauris.  —  Adjacent  to  this  room  is  the  — 

V.  Room.  *  Mosaics.  In  the  centre,  on  the  floor  :  Fettered  lion 
amid  Cupids  and  Bacchanalian  figures  ,  from  the  House  of  the 
Centaur  at  Pompeii  (p.  138).  —  On  the  entrance-wall,  by  the 
pillar :  Theseus  with  the  slain  Minotaur,  three  copies.  Farther  on, 
towards  the  window:  in  the  centre,  actor  trained  by  a  poet; 
above,  skull,  and  other  symbols,  found  on  a  table  in  a  triclinium 
at  Pompeii ;  on  the  left  and  right  comedy  scenes  (by  Dioscurides  of 
Samos,  according  to  the  inscription) ;  a  partridge ;  two  cocks  after 
the  fight.  —  Under  the  window :  Animals  of  Egypt  (which  served 
as  a  threshold  in  front  of  the  mosaic  of  the  Battle  of  Alexander). 
Above,  two  doves  (recently  found  in  Pompeii) ;  lion  and  tiger. 
—  Farther  on,  opposite  the  entrance:  *Acratus  (companion  of 
Bacchus)  riding  on  a  lion ;  below,  *Garland  with  masks ;  on  the 
left,  parrots  ;  on  the  right,  a  wild  cat  with  a  partridge,  and  fish,  all 
excellent  mosaics  from  the  house  of  the  Faun  (p.  135);  in  the 
niches,  four  mosaic-pillars  from  Pompeii  (p.  141).  - —  Farther  on,  a 
chained  dog  with  the  warning  'Cave  Canem'  (from  the  threshold  of 
the  'House  of  the  Tragic  Poet',  p.  136).  —  Right  wall :  a  large  niche, 
probably  intended  for  a  fountain;  above  it,  Phryxus  and  Helle; 
on  the  left,  the  Graces,  the  marriage  of  Neptune  and  Amphitrite; 
on  the  right,  quarrel  of  Achilles  and  Agamemnon.  ■ —  We  now  re- 
trace our  steps,  and  follow  the  arrangement  of  the  pictures,  which 
is  continued  through  the  passages  from  the  3rd  Room  to  the  6th, 
which  adjoins  it  on  the  other  side. 

VI.  Room:  In  the  two  passages,  beginning  next  the  window: 
xli-xliv.  Rope-dancing  Satyrs,  *Hovering  Centaurs,   *Dancing  Sa- 


Ground  Floor,  E.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       59 

tyrs  and  Bacchantes,  etc.  ■ —  Farther  on;  xlv.  *Representations 
of  Cupid  ('Cupids  for  sale  !').  xlvi.  Marriage  of  Zephyrus  and 
Chloris(Lat.  Flora),  xlvii.  The  Graces,  xlviii.  Diana  and  Endymion 
(repeated  several  times)  ;  Diana  with  a  how,  in  a  pensive  attitude 
(pendant  to  the  'Girl  gathering  flowers'  in  Room  III).  —  By  the 
window  to  the  left :  xlix.  Venus  and  Mars,  several  representations. 
Venus  and  Cupids,  lii.  Triumphal  procession  of  Bacchus.  Bacchus 
and  Ariadne.  —  *liii.  Dancers. 

VII.  Room  :  lviii-lix.  More  ancient  paintings  from  the  tomhs  of 
Ruvo,  Gnatia,  Paestum,  Capua  :  lviii.  Mercury  as  conductor  of  the 
dead.  Funeral  dance.  Iix.  Samnite  warriors  in  full  armour,  from 
Paestum  (p.  168).  Gorgon  head  with  Messapian  inscription.  —  lx. 
Narcissus  in  different  attitudes,  lxi-lxiii  and  lxv-lxvii.  Land- 
scapes from  Pompeii,  Herculaneum,  and  Stabife.  lxviii.  *Vulcan 
showing  Thetis  the  arms  of  Achilles  (twice),  lxx.  Jupiter  crown- 
ed by  Victoria,  lxxi.  Io's  arrival  in  Egypt  (Egypt  being  re- 
presented by  Isis).  *Jupiter  and  Juno  on  Mount  Ida.  Io  watched 
by  Argus.  Mercury  giving  the  Syrinx  to  Argus,  lxxii.  Five  *Draiv- 
ings  on  Marble  (monochromic)  from  Herculaneum :  Achilles  (?) 
in  a  quadriga ;  (Edipus  with  Antigone  and  Ismene  (?) ;  Latona 
with  Niobe  and  other  women  of  Cadmus  playing  at  dice  (pur- 
porting to  be  by  Alexandros  of  Athens);  Scene  from  a  tragedy. 
Theseus  rescuing  the  bride  of  Pirithous  from  a  Centaur  ?).  Similar 
drawing  from  Pompeii :  Fragment  of  a  representation  of  the  fate 
of  Niobe  and  her  children. 

To  the  above  collection  belongs  a  corridor  (entered  from  the 
vestibule  of  the  Galleria  Lapidaria,  or  by  the  3rd  door  in  the  great 
vestibule)  containing  *  Ornamental  Paintings  (Affreschi  Orna- 
mental!) from  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum,  being  mural  decorations, 
some  of  them  with  raised  stucco  designs  and  reliefs.  They  are 
executed  with  taste  and  precision  and  deserve  careful  inspection. 
In  the  semicircular  space,  lxxxii.  Valuable  collection  of  decorative 
masks.  Pillar  with  paintings  from  the  'Fullonica'  at  Pompeii  (p. 
137),  showing  the  different  processes  of  the  handicraft.  The  owl 
is  the  symbol  of  Minerva  the  tutelary  goddess  of  fullers,  lxxxiv. 
*Fragments  of  a  wall  from  Herculaneum. 

The  two  large  central  glass-doors  of  the  vestibule  on  the  right  and 
left  lead  into  Courts,  filled  with  reliefs,  statues,  and  architectural  frag- 
ments, many  of  which  deserve  the  notice  of  connoisseurs. 

The  two  parallel  long  rooms  in  the  E.  wing,  entered  from  the 
collection  of  ornamental  paintings,  contain  the  *  Gallery  of 
Inscriptions  (Oalleria  Lapidaria).  The  collection  comprises  up- 
wards of  2000  Latin  inscriptions,  others  in  Oscan  and  other  dia- 
lects, on  stone  andbronze  tablets,  and  engraved  (graffiti)  and  painted 
(dipinti)  mural  inscriptions  from  Pompeii.  The  collection  is  ar- 
ranged in  accordance  with  the  geographical  situation  of  the  different 
localities  of  discovery,  and  consists  chiefly  of  epitaphs,  but  also 
includes  laudatory  and  other  inscriptions.  —  To  the  left  of  the 


60       Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

passage  from  the  front  to  the  back  (principal)  room,  is  a  statue  of 
Tiberius ,  to  the  right  Atreus  with  the  Son  of  Thyestes  (?,  comp. 
Introd.,  p.  xxxvi). 

The  principal  room  contains  among  other  antiquities,  immediately 
to  the  right,  inscriptions  in  Oscan  and  other  Italian  dialects,  of  which 
No.  113,398  is  that  mentioned  at  p.  125  as  found  in  the  temple  of 
Apollo  at  Pompeii.  Among  the  bronze  tables  are,  at  the  end  of  the 
room  to  the  right,  near  the  Hercules,  the  celebrated  Tables  of 
Heracleafo.  214;  No.  2480),  bearing  on  one  side  regulations  as  to 
temple-lands  in  the  ancient  Greek  language,  and  on  the  other  (in- 
scribed at  a  later  date)  the  Italian  municipal  laws  promulgated 
by  Caesar  in  B.  0.  46.  —  At  the  window  opposite  the  entrance  and 
at  the  left  end  of  the  room,  to  the  left  of  the  Farnese  Bull,  are 
two  marble  tables ,  with  oval  hollows  serving  as  the  Municipal 
Standards  of  Measurement  for  grain  and  vegetables;  the  former  from 
Minturnae,  the  latter  from  the  Forum  at  Pompeii  (p.  126).  — 
Several  leaden  pipes  from  aqueducts,  etc.,  with  inscriptions. 

At  the  ends  of  this  room  are  placed  the  Famese  Hercules  and 
the  Farnese  Bull,  two  celebrated  works  of  antiquity,  formerly  in 
the  possession  of  the  Farnese  family. 

The  so-called  *  Farnese  Hercules,  was  found  in  1540  in  the 
Thermae  of  Caracalla  at  Rome.  The  legs  were  at  first  wanting,  but 
were  restored  by  Delia  Porta ;  twenty  years  later  the  missing  por- 
tions were  discovered  and  were  restored  to  the  statue.  The  end  of 
the  nose,  the  left  hand,  and  part  of  the  left  arm  are  new. 

The  hero  holds  in  his  right  hand  the  golden  apples  of  the  Hesperides, 
the  sign  of  his  successful  accomplishment  of  the  eleventh  of  the  labours 
imposed  on  him  by  King  Eurystheus,  and  leans,  faint  and  weary,  on  his 
club.  The  conception  differs  wholly  from  the  triumphant  victor  of  the 
early  legend,  and  would  alone  stamp  the  work  as  one  of  a  comparatively 
recent  period.  This  conclusion  is  strengthened  by  the  mannerism  appa- 
rent in  the  over-strained  effort  to  express  great  muscular  strength.  Ac- 
cording to  the  inscription,  it  is  the  work  of  the  Athenian  Glycon,  and 
was  probably  executed  under  the  early  emperors ,  possibly  on  the  model 
of  a  statue  by  Lysippus. 

The  celebrated  group  of  the  **Farnese  Bull,  a  work  of  the  Rho- 
dian  sculptors  Apollonius  and  Tauriscus ,  once  in  possession  of 
Asinius  Pollio,  was  also  found  in  1546  in  the  Thermae  of  Caracalla 
in  a  sadly  mutilated  condition.  The  restoration  of  the  group  was 
superintended  by  Michael  Angelo.  The  two  sons  of  Antiope,  Am- 
phion  and  Zethus,  avenge  the  wrongs  of  their  mother  by  binding 
Dirce,  who  had  treated  her  with  the  greatest  cruelty  for  many 
years,  to  the  horns  of  a  wild  bull.  Antiope  in  the  background 
exhorts  them  to  forgiveness.  The  boldness  and  life  of  the  group, 
originally  hewn  out  of  a  single  block  of  marble ,  is  unrivalled  in 
any  other  work  of  the  same  character  (comp.  Introd.,  pp.  xxxiv- 
xxxvi).  The  new  parts  are  the  head  of  the  bull,  the  Antiope,  with 
the  exception  of  the  feet,  the  upper  parts  of  Dirce  and  considerable 
portions  of  Amphion  and  Zethus. 


Ground  Floor,  W.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      61 

We  return  to  the  front  room  of  inscriptions,  at  the  end  of  which 
is  a  space  with  a  staircase  descending  to  the  floor  below.  To  the 
left  opens  the  Canova  Room,  so  called  from  three  colossal  statues 
by  Canova,  of  Napoleon  I,  his  mother  Laetitia,  and  Ferdinand  IV. 
It  also  contains  three  busts  of  Pope  Paul  III.  Farnese  (10  517.  un- 
finished, and  10514.  attributed  to  Michael  Angelo;  10521.  by  Gugl. 
delta  Porta?),  a  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  and  a  statue  of  Modesty,  by 
J.  Sammartino,  a  Head  of  the  Medusa,  after  Canova,  and  some 
antique  busts  of  the  Eoman  imperial  epoch. 

We  descend  the  staircase  mentioned  above  to  the  Lower  Floor.  Room  I. 
Casts  from  hieroglyphic?  (*t  the  window,  relief  of  asses' heads).  Room  II. 
eontains  antique  inscriptions  and  the  Chinese  Collections,  including  a  magni- 
ficent vessel  in  carved  ivory.  Passing  next  through  an  empty  room  (III) 
and  Room  IV.  containing  Christian  Inscriptions,  from  the  catacombs  of 
Rome  and  Naples  (built  into  the  walls),  we  reach  the  — 

Egyptian  Antiquities.  —  Room  V.  In  the  centre,  Serapis,  found  in  the 
vestibule  of  the  Serapeum  at  Pozzuoli.  Isis,  a  marble  statuette  from  the 
temple  of  Isis  at  Pompeii,  holding  a  sistrum  and  key  of  the  Nile,  with 
interesting  traces  of  gilding  and  painting.  Coffin-lids.  On  the  short  wall, 
Horus  with  a  dog's  head.  The  cabinets  contain  a  valuable  collection  of  small 
statuettes.  —  Room  VI.  In  the  centre:  by  the  window,  a  granite  tombstone  with 
twenty  two  figures  in  relief  and  hieroglyphics.  Egyptian  priest,  a  so-called 
Pastophorus1,  in  black  basalt.  By  the  walls  six  glass  cabinets  with  various 
kinds  of  trinkets,  etc.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance,  the  second  immured  tablet 
is  the  so-called  'Table  of  Isis1,  from  the  temple  of  Isis  at  Pompeii.  By  the 
windowwall  a  papyrus  with  Greek  writing,  dating  from  the  2nd  or  3rd  cent., 
which  with  forty  others  was  found  at  Memphis  in  a  chest  of  sycamore  wood, 
and  contains  names  of  the  canal  -  labourers  on  the  Nile.  Opposite  the 
entrance  a  number  of  mummies  of  men,  women,  and  children ,  some  of 
them  divested  of  their  cerements  and  admirably  preserved  (the  skull  of 
a  female  mummy  still  retains  the  hair).  Also  the  mummy  of  a  crocodile. 
Marble  bust  of  Ptolemy  V. 

The  left  (W.)  half  of  the  ground-floor  contains  the  valuable  col- 
lection of  marble  sculptures  and  the  bronzes. 

The  **  Collection  of  Marble  Sculptures  occupies  the  great 
corridor  with  three  branches,  and  the  rooms  situated  beyond  the 
second  branch.  The  new  arrangement  in  accordance  with  the  local 
and  historical  position  of  the  works  is  practically  complete.  It  is 
best  to  begin  with  the  N.  corridor  (third  door  on  the  left  from  the 
vestibule),  the  — 

Corridor  of  the  Masterpieces  (Portico  dei  Capolavori),  which 
contains  the  finest  works  in  the  collection  ,  affording  a  review  of 
the  development  of  the  ancient  plastic  art  from  the  5th  cent.  B.C. 
down  to  the  reign  of  Hadrian  and  his  successors.  This  part  of 
the  collection  in  particular  supplies  the  visitor  with  an  admirable 
illustration  of  the  history  of  ancient  art,  and  includes  moreover 
several  works  of  the  highest  merit. 

On  the  right :  —  *  Orestes  and  Electra,  a  group  which  has  given 
rise  to  much  discussion,  probably  belonging  to  the  revived  archaic 
style  introduced  by  Pasiteles  towards  the  end  of  the  republic  (In- 
trod.,  p.  xxxvi).  —  Pallas,  archaic  style,  from  Herculaneum.  — 
Artemis,  an  archaistic  statuette  found  at  Pompeii,  with  numerous 
traces  of  painting  (gold  on  the  rosettes  of  the  headdress,  red  on  the 


62      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

edges  of  the  robe,  the  quiver-hand,  and  the  sandals).  —  *  Venus  of 
Capua,  found  at  Capua  in  the  middle  of  the  18th  century. 

It  is  uncertain  how  this  statue,  which  greatly  resembles  the  Venus 
of  Milo  in  the  Louvre,  ought  to  be  restored.  The  arms,  the  nose,  and 
part  of  the  mantle  are  modern.  On  Corinthian  coins  Venus,  the  tutelary 
goddess  of  the  city,  is  represented  in  a  similar  attitude,  in  the  act  of 
using  a  shield  as  a  mirror,  but  it  is  possible  that  the  Capuan  statue  had 
a  figure  of  Mars  standing  beside  her,  from  whom  she  was  taking  his  sword. 
The  statue  is  held  to  be  a  work  of  the  Koman  period  (as  the  representation  oi 
the  pupil  of  the  eye  indicates),  but  was  probably  a  copy  of  a  Greek  original. 

Adonis,  freely  restored.  —  Athlete,  from  the  palaestra  of  Pompeii, 
the  left  hand  missing,  as  in  other  examples  of  the  same  statue ;  it 
is  supposed  to  be  a  replica  of  the  Doryphorus  of  Polycleius;  comp. 
Introd.,  p.  xxxiv. 

*Homer,  a  beautiful  bust,  the  finest  of  all  the  ideal  repre- 
sentations of  the  poet. 

'I  must  own  that  nothing  has  ever  given  me  a  higher  idea  of  Grecian 
sculpture,  than  the  fact  that  it  has  been  able  to  conceive  and  represent  these 
features.  A  blind  poet  and  minstrel  —  nothing  more  —  was  given.  And 
starting  with  this  simple  theme  the  artist  has  made  the  aged  brow  and 
cheek  instinct  with  supernatural  mental  effort  and  prophetic  inspiration, 
combined  with  that  perfect  serenity  which  ever  characterises  the  blind.  Each 
stroke  of  the  chisel  is  full  of  genius  and  marvellous  vitality'.  —  Burckhardt. 

Ill  the  middle :  —  *Harmodius  and  Aristogeiton  (head  of  Aristo- 
geiton  ancient,  but  originally  belonging  to  some  other  statue). 

After  the  expulsion  of  Hippias  in  510  B.  C.  the  Athenians  erected  in 
the  Agora  statues  of  Harmodius  and  Aristogeiton,  the  slayers  of  the  tyrant 
Hipparchus.  This  group,  the  work  of  Anterior,  was  carried  away  by 
Xerxes  in  480  and  replaced  in  478  by  another  executed  by  Critias  and 
JVesiotes.  The  original  statues  were  afterwards  restored  to  Athens  by 
Alexander  the  Great  or  one  of  his  successors,  and  the  two  groups  stood 
side  by  side  in  the  market-place,  where  they  were  seen  by  Pausanias  the 
historian  (2nd  cent,  of  our  era).  The  statues  in  the  museum  are  a  copy 
of  one  or  other  of  these  groups,  both  of  which  were  in  bronze  and  pro- 
bably alike  in  all  essential  details.  —  Comp.  Introd.,  p.  xxxiii. 

Dying  Amazon,  Dead  Persian,  Dead  Oiant  (or  Gaul?),  and 
Wounded  Gaul,  of  the  Pergamenian  school. 

King  Attalus  I.  of  Pergamus,  having  in  239  B.  C.  gained  a  decisive 
victory  over  the  Gauls  who  had  invaded  Mysia,  erected  on  the  Acropolis 
at  Athens  four  groups  of  marble  statues  as  a  votive  offering  for  his  deliver- 
ance. These  represented  the  triumph  of  civilisation  and  culture  over  brute 
force,  as  typified  in  the  contests  of  the  Gods  and  the  Giants,  the  Athenians 
and  the  Amazons,  the  Athenians  and  Persians  at  Marathon,  and  lastly  of 
Attalus  himself  and  the  Celts.  They  have  been  described  by  Pausanias 
(see  above).  The  statues  in  this  museum  are  undoubtedly  parts  of  the 
original  monument,  and  there  are  other  figures  from  it  at  Eome  and  Venice. 
The  time  when  they  were  brought  to  Italy  is  unknown,  but  cannot  have 
been  sooner  than  the  capture  of  Athens  by  the  Crusaders  in  1205.  (The 
exquisite  reliefs  recently  discovered  at  Pergamus  and  now  at  Berlin  were 
erected  by  Attalus  in  his  own  capital  in  commemoration  of  the  same  victory. 

Venus  Callipygus ,  so  called  from  that  part  of  her  body  towards 
which  she  is  looking,  found  in  the  imperial  palaces  at  Rome;  the 
head,  breast,  right  leg,  right  hand,  and  left  arm  are  modern.  — 
*Satyr,  carrying  the  child  Bacchus  on  his  shoulder. 

On  the  left,  a  Pugilist  (from  Sorrento)  and  four  busts:  Anto- 
ninus Pius.  — *Hera  (Farnese  Juno),  a  grand  head  in  the  early  style, 


Ground  Floor,  W.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      63 

austere  in  expression  (Introd.,  p.  xxxii);  it  is  a  replica  of  a  bronze 
original,  in  -which  the  eyes  were  of  some  other  material,  and  was 
intended  to  be  joined  to  a  statue.  —  Caracalla,  Faustina. 

The  adjacent  room  to  the  right  contains  at  the  entrance ,  to 
the  right,  Brutus  and  Pompey,  two  busts  found  in  a  house  in  Pom- 
peii in  1869 ;  a  large  basin  in  porphyry,  torsi,  dogs,  leopards,  boar 
sacrifices,  and  fragment  of  a  gigantic  figure  resembling  the  Per- 
gamenian  sculptures  at  Berlin. 

Farther  on  to  the  Tight  in  the  principal  room:  Head  of  a  Woman. 
—  *Aeschines,  the  Athenian  orator  (389-314  B.  C.)  and  champion 
of  Philip  of  Macedon  against  Demosthenes ,  a  statue  found  in 
the  Villa  of  the  Papyri  at  Herculaneum. 

Though  the  drapery  is  inferior  to  that  of  the  admirable  statue  of 
Sophocles  in  the  Lateran  Collection  at  Rome,  there  is  little  doubt  that 
this  is  a  copy  of  an  old  Greek  original.  It  was  once  erroneously  called 
Aristides,  but  its  resemblance  to  the  herma  of  iEschines  with  his  name 
attached  at  the  Vatican  proves  its  identity. 

Pallas,  archaistic,  from  Velletri.  — Juno.  —  *Torso  of  Bacchus, 
a  genuine  Greek  work.  —  *  Psyche  of  Capua,  sadly  mutilated ;  she 
was  probably  represented  with  her  hands  bound  behind  her,  being 
tormented  by  Cupid,  but  the  state  in  which  the  figure  now  is 
makes  certainty  on  this  point  impossible.  —  *  Torso  of  Venus, 
another  genuine  Greek  work,  probably  not  much  more  recent  than 
the  "Venus  of  Cnidus  by  Praxiteles  (4th  cent.  B.C.). 

In  the  middle :  —  Nereid,  on  a  sea-monster.  —  Sitting  portrait- 
figure  of  a  Roman  lady  (not  Agrippina). 
Antinous.  the  favourite  of  Hadrian. 

The  Cokbiboe.  op  Portrait  Statues  and  Busts,  which  we 
next  enter,  is  also  called  the  Portico  dei  Balbi,  from  the  honorary 
statues  of  the  family  of  that  name,  the  most  distinguished  at  Hercu- 
laneum, erected  in  the  theatres  by  the  Municipal  council. 

Near  the  ends  of  the  corridor:  6211  (N.  end),  6104  (S.  end), 
Equestrian  Statues  of  M.  Nonius  Balbus  and  his  Son  (of  the  same 
name)  'praetor  and  proconsul',  found  in  the  Basilica  of  Hercula- 
neum. —  The  following  description  begins  with  the  N.  end.  On 
the  end-wall,,  several  Dacians  from  the  forum  of  Trajan  at  Rome; 
to  the  right  and  left:  Genre  figures  of  children ;  Sacrificing  swine.  — 
On  the  left  (E.)  wall,  Portrait  statues  from  Herculaneum  and  Pom- 
peii, arranged  in  groups  of  five.  In  the  first  group :  6234.  Orator 
from  Pompeii ;  6232.  Statue  of  the  Priestess  Eumachia  of  Pompeii, 
erected  in  her  honour  by  the  fullers.  In  the  second  group:  6231. 
Orator  from  Pompeii;  *6167.  M.  Nonius  Balbus,  the  father; 
*6168.  Viciria  Archais,  the  wife  of  Balbus,  a  stately  matron. 
Farther  on  (6242-6249),  her  son  and  four  daughters,  on  the  same 
pedestal  (a  fifth  daughter  of  the  group  is  in  the  Dresden  Museum). 
—  On  the  right  (W.)  wall,  again  beginning  at  the  N.  end,  Roman 
Portrait-busts,  in  two  sections.  In  the  first  section,  loweT  row : 
6190.  Agrippina  the  Younger,  mother  of  Nero;  second  section,  lower 


64      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

row:  6185-87.  Three  examples  of  a  so-called  Seneca  (perhaps  Cal- 
limachus?);  111,386.  Drusus  the  Younger.  Most  of  the  other  busts 
are  either  unknown  or  erroneously  named.  —  The  Hall  of  Flora, 
containing  the  Battle  of  Alexander,  here  opens  to  the  right  (see  p. 
65),  on  the  entrance  to  which :  Two  barbarians  as  supporters,  in 
pavonazzetto,  the  heads  and  hands  in  basalt ;  in  the  entrance,  to 
the  left:  6414.  Euripides,  and  6415.  Socrates,  a  henna  with  a 
Greek  inscription ;  to  the  right,  6412.  Head  of  an  athlete  (Dory- 
phoros),  and  6413.  Homer.  —  Opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Flora 
room,  in  the  middle  of  the  corridor  of  the  Balbi:  6236.  Double 
herma  of  an  unknown  Greek  and  Roman,  and  6239.  Double  henna 
of  Herodotus  and  Thucydides.  Between  these ,  two  sitting  sta- 
tuettes, one  of  them  representing  the  poet  Moschion.  —  Farther 
on,  by  the  right  wall  of  the  corridor,  are  Greek  Busts,  in  two  sec- 
tions. In  the  first  section,  above:  6158.  Ptolemy  Soter(f),  6149. 
Demetrius  Poliorcetes (Y),  6150.  Pyrrhus,  6156.  Archidamus;  below: 
6166.  Demosthenes,  6161,  6160,  6135.  Euripides,  6139.  Periander, 
6188.  Vestal  Virgin  (V) ;  in  the  second  section,  above  :  6146.  Hero- 
dotus, 6130.  Lysias,  6133.  Sophocles,  6142.  Poseidon,  6131.  Car- 
neades,  6129.  Socrates,  6128.  Zeno,  6117.  Aratus ,  the  astrono- 
mer; below :  6143.  Solon.  —  At  the  S.  end,  in  the  middle,  a  hunter; 
several  portrait-statues  :  6233.  Statue  of  Marcus  Holconius  Bufus, 
a  Roman  military  tribune,  and  five  times  mayor  of  Pompeii. 

We  now  pass  by  the  statue  of  the  younger  Balbus  into  the  — 

Corked ob.  of  the  Roman  Emperors  (Portico  degli  Jmperatori), 
the  arrangement  of  which  begins  at  the  farther  end,  by  the  en- 
trance from  the  large  vestibule.  It  contains  statues  and  busts  in 
chronological  order,  of  a  more  or  less  ideal  character.  Most  of  the 
heads  are  modern  plaster  casts,  attached  to  the  ancient  torsos  in 
a  very  haphazard  manner ,  so  that  the  names  affixed  have  little 
authority.  No.  6038,  a  colosssal  *Bust  of  Caesar,  is  genuine, 
but  there  is  no  authentic  Augustus.  6041.  Livia  (a  misnomer), 
and  6044.  Marcellus,  nephew  of  Augustus,  both  from  the  Macellum 
at  Pompeii.  16,045.  Livia.  Opposite:  6055.  109,516.  Drusus,  son 
of  Tiberius.  6058.  Nero,  wrongly  so  called.  6060.  Claudius,  not 
Galba.    6073.  Not  Trajan. 

The  Seven  Rooms  beyond  the  Portico  dei  Balbi  also  have 
their  contents  arranged  according  to  subjects.  Among  much  that 
is  mediocre  there  are  a  few  works  of  great  excellence.  The  ar- 
rangement begins  with  the  gods,  in  the  room  opposite  the  en- 
trance to  the  collection  of  bronzes  (p.  67). 

I.  Room  :  Jupiter,  Juno,  Apollo,  Diana,  Ceres.  In  the  centre, 
6281.  Apollo,  in  a  sitting  posture,  in  porphyry,  the  head  and  hands 
in  marble ;  a  work  of  the  decline  of  art  during  the  imperial  period, 
when  a  taste  prevailed  for  rare  kinds  of  stone  which  were  difficult 
to  work.  Right:  6278.  Diana  of  Ephesus,  in  yellow  alabaster,  the 
head,  hands,  and  feet  in  bronze ;  her  symbols  indicate  the  fecundity 


Ground  Floor,  W.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      65 

of  the  goddess  of  nature.  Left:  6262.  Apollo,  in  basalt.  Posterior 
wall:  *6266.  Jupiter,  a  bust  from  the  temple  of  Pompeii  (p.  126); 
6267.  Jupiter,  colossal  half-statue  from  Cumae ;  6268.  Juno  ;  on  the 
right,  6274.  Bust  of  the  ram-horned  Jupiter  Amnion. 

II.  Room  :  Venus,  Mars,  Mercury,  Minerva,  Bacchus.  Among 
the  numerous  Statues  of  Venus  (eight  of  them  from  Pompeii,  in- 
cluding 109,608*  and  111,387,  interesting  from  being  painted,  and 
6294,  a  statue  from  the  Temple  of  Apollo  mentioned  at  p.  125) 
are  several  with  portrait-heads.  6302.  Mercury  ;  to  the  left,  *Aphro- 
dite,  after  Alcamenes.    In  the  centre,  6323.  Mars,  sitting. 

III.  Room  :  Satyrs,  Ganymede,  Cupid,  Cybele,  etc.  —  Left :  Satyr 
with  a  bunch  of  grapes;  *6329.  Pan  teaching  Daphnis  the  flute. — 
6351,  6355.  Ganymede  with  the  eagle;  6352.  Hermaphrodite,  from 
Pompeii;  *6353.  Winged  Cupid,  supposed  to  be  a  replica  of  an 
original  by  Praxiteles.  In  the  centre  :  6375.  Cupid  encircled  by  a 
dolphin,  fountain-figure;  6374.  Atlas,  with  the  globe.  —  6358. 
Paris;  *6360.  JUsculapius,  from  Rome.  —  On  the  short  wall :  Masks 
of  rivergods,  once  used  as  water-spouts.  6365.  Nymph  at  the  bath. 
Three  Priestesses  of  Isis.   6369,6371.  Cybele,  themotherof  the  gods. 

IV.  Room  :  Statues  of  Muses  from  Herculaneum  and  Rome ; 
several  figures  of  Hercules.  By  the  window,  6390.  Head  of  Ajax. 
In  the  centre,  6405.  Amazon,  falling  from  her  horse ;  6407.  Eques- 
trian Figure,  the  opponent  of  the  last;  *6406.  Hercules  and  Omphale, 
with  each  other's  attributes,  a  group  in  the  genre  style. 

V.  Hall  of  the  Flora.  By  the  principal  wall :  *6409.  The 
Farnese  Flora,  found  in  the  Baths  of  Caracalla  at  Rome,  at  the 
same  time  as  the  Hercules  and  the  Bull  (p.  60).  It  is  probably  a 
work  of  the  early  Roman  empire,  when  the  dubious  taste  for  repro- 
ducing smaller  Greek  originals  on  a  colossal  scale  had  already 
manifested  itself.  The  figure,  however,  is  charming  in  spite  of  its 
huge  proportions.  As  the  head,  arms,  and  feet  were  missing  when 
the  statue  was  found,  and  were  restored  by  Giacomo  della  Porta, 
and  afterwards  by  Albaccini  and  Taglioni,  it  is  not  improbable  that 
the  figure  once  represented  a  Venus  instead  of  a  Flora.  It  has  also 
been  suggested  that  it  may  be  a  'Hora',  a  'Dancing  Muse',  or  a 
'Hebe'.  —  In  the  floor  in  front  of  it  is  the  **Mosaic  of  the  Battle  of 
Alexander,  found  in  1831  in  the  house  of  the  Faun  at  Pompeii.  This 
work,  which  is  almost  the  only  ancient  historical  composition  in  exist- 
ence, represents  the  battle  at  the  moment  when  Alexander,  whose 
helmet  has  fallen  from  his  head,  charges  Darius  with  his  cavalry, 
and  transfixes  the  general  of  the  Persians  who  has  fallen  from  his 
wounded  horse.  The  chariot  of  the  Persian  monarch  is  prepared 
for  retreat,  whilst  in  the  foreground  a  Persian  of  rank,  in  order  to 
ensure  the  more  speedy  escape  of  the  king,  who  is  absorbed  in 
thought  at  the  sight  of  his  expiring  general,  offers  him  his  horse 
(Introd.  p.  xliv).  —  Also  four  statues  of  gladiators. 

VI.  Room  :  Reliefs.    In  the  centre,  *6673.   a  beautiful  Marble 

Baedeker.     Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  5 


66      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

Vase  -with  a  relief :  Mercury,  followed  by  dancing  Bacchanalia] 
figures,  gives  the  young  Bacchus  to  a  nymph  to  he  brought  up 
According  to  the  inscription  it  is  the  work  of  a  certain  Salpion  o 
Athens ;  it  was  found  at  Formia ,  and  was  long  used  at  the  har 
hour  there  as  a  post  for  fastening  boat-ropes  to  (of  which  traces  an 
still  distinct),  then  as  a  font  in  the  cathedral  of  Gaeta  (comp.  In 
trod.,  p.  xxxvi).  The  traditions  of  a  more  archaic  style  have  beei 
applied  here  with  great  adroitness.  —  To  the  left  of  the  entrance 
also  on  a  pedestal,  6670.  a  fountain-enclosure  with  seven  gods 
Jupiter,  Mars,  Apollo,  iEsculapius,  Bacchus,  Hercules,  and  Mer- 
cury. There  are  also  three  other  fountain-enclosures  in  the  centre 
—  By  the  wall,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  6556.  an  early  Attii 
Stele,  of  the  middle  of  the  5th  century.  Then  6672,  a  beautifu 
Trapezophorus  (pedestal  of  a  table),  with  Centaur  and  Scylla.  — 
By  the  walls :  Sarcophagi,  Fountain  Masks,  and  numerous  Oscilla 
or  reversible  marble  discs  and  masks,  which  used  to  be  hung  up  h] 
way  of  ornament  between  the  columns  of  peristyles.  The  glass- 
case  to  the  right  contains  Fountain  Figures,  Hernial  Heads,  anc 
other  small  figures. 

VII.  Room  :  Reliefs.  Left :  *6682.  Aphrodite,  seconded  by  Peithc 
(persuasion),  endeavouring  to  induce  Helen  to  follow  Paris  (Alexan- 
dres), who  with  Cupid  stands  before  her,  a  Greek  work;  6684 
Bacchanal ;  *6688.  Youth  with  three  maidens,  usually  termed  Apolli 
with  the  Graces  (or  Alcibiades  with  three  hetserae)  ;  6693.  Sarcopha- 
gus :  Bacchanalian  procession.  —  On  the  pillar  between  the  win- 
dows :  6704.  Gladiator  contests  from  Pompeii;  6705.  Sarco- 
phagus with  Prometheus  and  man  as  yet  uninspired  with  life, 
surrounded  by  beneficent  gods.  —  Third  wall :  6715.  Foot  of  i 
table  (?),  framed  with  Caryatides ;  to  the  right,  fragment  of  ar 
Old  "Woman  in  a  crouching  attitude.  Above:  *6713.  BanchetU 
d'Icario,  i.  e.  Dionysus,  or  the  elder,  bearded  Indian  Bacchus 
feasting  with  the  Attic  prince  Icarius ,  the  legendary  founder  o 
the  Satyric  drama  ('Drama  Satyrikon');  the  train  of  the  god  includes 
the  muse  Melpomene,  Silenus,  and  several  Satyrs.  Above:  Cupids 
in  the  circus.  —  6724.  Nymph  defending  herself  against  a  satyr, 
6725.  The  Graces,  Euphrosyne,  Aglaia,  and  Thalia,  and  four  othei 
figures,  named  Ismene,  Cycais,  Eranno,  and  Telonnesus.  Below: 
*6726.  Bacchanalian  procession.  *6727.  Orpheus  and  Eurydice,  wit! 
Hermes,  in  the  infernal  regions  (see  Introd.,  p.  xxxiii).  —  Fourtl 
wall :  Sarcophagi.  6753,  6757,  6763.  Three  representations  of  Asiatic 
provinces.  —  In  the  centre :  6780.  Honorary  Pedestal  from  Poz- 
zuoli ,  with  figures  representing  fourteen  towns  of  Asia  Minoi 
which  the  Emp.  Tiberius  rebuilt  after  an  earthquake,  each  figure 
being  furnished  with  its  name.  In  the  middle,  two  large  Cande- 
labra, with  herons,  and  two  Bacchic  *  Vases. 

In  the  adjoining  Passage  are  handsome  ornamental  works  in 
marble :    *Tables  with  basins    for  fountains  ;   candelabra ,    among 


Ground  Floor,  W.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       67 

which  is  a  *Stooping  Sphinx  from  Pompeii ;  feet  of  tables ;  tables.  — 
From  this  passage  we  again  enter  the  Portico  dei  Balbi  (see  p.  63). 
At  the  S.  end  of  the  Portico  dei  Balbi  is  the  entrance  to  the 
**Collection  of  Bronzes,  most  of  which  are  from  Herculaneum,  and 
a  few  only  from  Pompeii.  Their  respective  origins  are  distinguished 
by  their  different  colours,  due  to  different  methods  of  treatment. 
The  bronzes  of  Herculaneum  are  of  a  dark,  black-green  hue, 
while  those  of  Pompeii  are  oxydised  and  of  a  light,  bluish-green 
colour.  This  collection  is  unrivalled,  and  deserves  careful  and  re- 
peated inspection.  The  number  and  magnitude  of  the  works,  the 
delicate  treatment  adapted  to  the  material,  and  the  skilful  mastery 
of  every  kind  of  difficulty  in  casting  and  chiselling  afford  an  ex- 
cellent insight  into  the  high  development  of  this  branch  of  art 
in  ancient  times. 

I.  Room  :  Animals.  In  the  middle  :  *4904.  Horse  from  Hercu- 
laneum, belonging  to  a  quadriga ,  and  reconstructed  from  minute 
fragments.  —  By  the  back  wall :  *4887.  Colossal  Horse's  Head,  found 
at  Naples ,  formerly  in  the  Palazzo  Santangelo.  It  belonged  to  a 
horse  which  is  said  to  have  stood  in  the  vestibule  of  the  temple 
of  Neptune  (S.  Gennaro),  and  to  have  been  converted  into  a  bell 
by  the  archbishop  on  account  of  the  superstitious  veneration  with, 
which  it  was  regarded.  4886,4888.  Two  Deer.  4899-4901.  Boar, 
attacked  by  two  dogs.  Several  animals  once  used  as  fountain- 
figures.  —  At  the  entrance,  on  the  right,  4896.  So-called  Sappho ; 
opposite,  4895.  Diana  Shooting,  a  half-figure  from  the  Temple  of 
Apollo  at  Pompeii.  Opposite  the  entrance ,  4892.  Mercury,  in  a 
sitting  posture.  —  To  the  left  of  the  right  entrance  to  the  following 
room:  110,663.  Herma  of  L,  Caecilius  Jucundus ,  a  Pompeian 
banker  (see  p.  71),  erected  by  his  freedman  Felix.  —  Beside  the 
other  entrance,  through  which  we  pass,  Bust  of  a  lady,  perhaps  a 
member  of  the  family  of  the  emperor  Claudius. 

II.  Room:  Statuettes.  In  the  centre:  4995.  Bacchus  with  a  Satyr 
(eyes  inserted).  5000.  Boy  with  goose.  —  Behind  the  last:  111701. 
Winged  boy  with  a  dolphin.  —  Infront:  **5003.  So-called  Narcissus 
perhaps  a  Pan  listening  to  Echo,  one  of  the  most  charming  antique 
statues  extant,  both  in  conception  and  execution,  found  in  an  un- 
pretending private  house  at  Pompeii  in  1862.  *1 11,495.  Satyr  with 
a  wine-skin,  a  fountain-figure  found  at  Pompeii  in  1879.  *5002. 
Dancing  Faun,  marking  the  time  by  snapping  his  fingers  found  at 
Pompeii  (p.  135).  *5001.  Silenus,  used  as  the  bearer  of  a  vase  (with 
handle  very  unsuitably  made  in  imitation  of  the  body  of  a  serpent) 
found  at  Pompeii  in  1864 ;  the  air  of  exertion  is  admirably  lifelike. 
—  In  the  corners  of  the  room :  by  the  entrance,  to  the  left,  and  by 
the  opposite  exit,  two  Oreek  Hermae ,  perhaps  intended  for  a  pa- 
laestra, the  projecting  props  being  for  the  support  of  wreaths.  The 
first  passes  for  an  Amazon,  the  second  (Head  of  aDoryphoros)  bears 
the  name  of  the  sculptor,  Apollonius,  son  of  Archias  of  Athens. 

5* 


68      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

The  -window-cabinet  contains,  above,  a  number  of  Boys  with  wine- 
skins, vessels,  and  masks,  once  used  as  fountain-figures.  Silenus 
■with  a  panther.  Below :  4997.  Flying  Victory,  on  a  globe  ;  4993. 
Boy  with  lamp;  *4998.  Venus  arranging  her  hair,  originally  with  a 
mirror  in  her  left  hand.  In  the  middle,  110,127.  bust  of  Galba,  in 
silver;  5009.  Youthful  Bacchus;  two  equestrian  statuettes :  4999. 
Amazon,  4996.  Alexander  the  Great;  4994.  Angler,  a  fountain- 
figure.  —  In  the  cabinet  to  the  right  beyond  the  window  are  Fancy 
Figures,  chiefly  gladiators.  Small  Busts:  Demosthenes,  Epicurus, 
Zeno,  Augustus.  Hands  with  quaint  emblems,  used  as  amulets 
to  avert  the  danger  of  the  'evil  eye'.  Above  these,  Lares  (household 
gods),  youths  adorned  with  wreaths  and  bearing  drinking-horns 
and  vases,  and  Genius  Familiaris.  —  Opposite  the  window:  Stat- 
uettes of  Gods:  Hercules,  Victoria,  Fortuna,  Bacchus,  Mercury, 
Minerva,  Jupiter,  etc.  —  Wall  of  the  entrance  :  Etruscan  Mirrors, 
the  backs  adorned  with  engraved  scenes. 

III.  Principal  Room.  In  the  centre:  *5628.  Drunken  Faun.  On 
each  side(Nos.  5627,  5626),  Two  statues  of  Wrestlers  about  to  engage. 
Beyond  these,  to  the  right :  *5630.  Apollo  playing  the  lyre,  from 
Pompeii,  a  work  of  the  archaistic  school  of  Pasiteles,  about  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Empire  (p.  xxxvi) ;  to  the  left,  5629.  Apollo  Shooting, 
from  the  Temple  of  Apollo  at  Pompeii  (a  companionpiece  to 
No.  4895,  p.  67).  Before  the  last,  to  the  right :  **5625.  Mercury 
Reposing,  a  beautiful  picture  of  elastic  youth  at  a  moment  of 
relaxation ;  the  wings  attached  to  the  feet  and  the  remains  of  the 
caduceus  in  the  hand  identify  the  messenger  of  the  gods.  To  the 
left :  *5624.  Sleeping  Satyr.  —  Along  the  walls,  beginning  at  the 
door  on  the  left:  Herma  of  C.  Norbanus  Sorex.  from  the  temple  of 
Isis  at  Pompeii.  Then  a  series  of  fine  Greek  *Portrait-heads  :  5588. 
Unknown.  The  following  heads ,  as  far  as  the  opposite  door,  are 
believed  to  be  portraits  of  the  Ptolemies  :  5590.  Seleucus  Nicator; 
5592.  So-called  Berenice,  admirably  modelled  (eyes  and  lips  lined 
with  silver  when  discovered)  ;  5598.  Female  Head  with  hairrestored 
(erroneously  called  Ptolemy  Apion)  ;  5600  (by  the  door),  Ptolemy 
SoterQi).  The  intervening  statues  are  of  little  merit :  5593.  Claudius; 
5595.  Augustus ;  the  others  have  not  been  identified.  —  Farther 
on,  by  the  wall  facing  the  entrance,  to  the  right  of  the  door:  5602. 
Heraclitus  (?),  the  philosopher;  above,  5601.  Portrait  of  a  Roman. 
*5603-5605.  Three  Dancing  Women,  from  Herculaneum;  5607.  So- 
called  Archytas  of  Tarentum,  with  a  fillet  round  his  head;  *5608. 
Archaistic  Head  of  Apollo  ;  5609.  Livia  (a  misnomer);  5610.  Head 
of  a  Greek  Athlete  ;  *5611.  Sacrificing  Boy  (camillus);  5612.  Female 
Portrait  Statue;  5613.  Statuette  of  Apollo ;  5614.  Head  of  a  Greek 
Athlete.  — Entrance  Wall :  5615.  Statue  of  Augustus^),  sacrificing; 
*5616.  So-called  Head  of  Seneca  (perhaps  Callimachus).*5618..ffead 
of  Dionysus,  probably  the  finest  embodiment  of  the  ideal  of 
the  bearded,    or  Indian    Bacchus  (comp.   the  relief,    'Banchetto 


Entresol.  NAPLES.  3.  Route. 

d'Icario',   p.  66),   as  already  accepted  in  the  6th  cent.  B.C. ; 
head  was  formerly  called  Plato,    until  the  discovery  of  a  genu 
bust  of  that  philosopher.  Aboveit:  *5617.  Young  Tiberius.  5619- 
Three  Dancing  Women  from  Herculaneum  (see  p.  68).   *5623. 
mocritus(f).  Above,  5622.  Lepidus  (?). 

IV.  Room:  "Weapons.  In  the  centre,  *5635.  Equestrian  Statu 
Caligula,  found  at  Pompeii  (p.  137).  Adjoining  the  door  on 
left :  5631.  Roman  Portrait  Head ;  opposite,  5632.  Bust  of  a  mem 
of  the  Claudian  imperial  house  (Tiberius?).  —  By  the  door  on 
right:  5634.  Bust  of  Scipio  Africanus ;  opposite,  5633.  IdeaU 
Oreek  Head.  —  The  glass  cabinets  contain  a  choice  Collectioi 
Weapons  (detailed  descriptions  hung  up  at  the  entrance).  Entra 
Wall :  Italian  weapons ;  among  them  a  cock,  a  Samnite  bounc 
figure  from  Pietrabbondante  (Bovianum),  and  gladiators'  horns  f 
Pompeii.  —  Left  "Wall :  Helmets  of  gladiators  and  richly  decor? 
armour  from  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum.  Among  these,  283.  I 
met  with  the  Taking  of  Troy  ;  Shield  with  head  of  the  Medusa, 
Opposite  the  entrance  :  Greek  armour,  helmets,  and  weapons,  fo 
at  Psestum,  Ruvo,  and  Canosa.  —  "Window  "Wall :  Leaden  pro, 
tiles  for  slings,  etc. 

B.    Entresol. 
The   Entresol  (Ital.   Mezzanino)   contains    on   the   right 
rooms  with  the  latest  frescoes  from  Pompeii,  and  the  ancient  te 
cottas ;  on  the  left  are  the  Cumaean  collection ,    the  Renaisss 
objects,  and  the  Engravings. 

The  most  interesting  of  the  Pompeian  Frescoes  are  the  foil 
ing:  Room  I.,  on  the  entrance-wall,  to  the  left,  Europa  and 
bull ;  Laocoon ;  Tavern  scene  with  inscriptions ;  a  curious  c 
cature  of  an  incident  resembling  the  Judgment  of  Solomon. 
Left  Wall :  Pyramus  and  Thisbe ;  above,  Ulysses  and  Ci 
Bellerophon ;  Iphigenia  and  Orestes  in  Tauris ;  Jason  before  Pel 
Ulysses  escaping  from  Polyphemus;  above,  Paris  and  He 
Phaedra;  Medea.  —  Window  "Wall:  Destruction  of  Niobe  and 
children.  —  Right  "Wall:  Conflict  between  the  Pompeians 
Nucerines  in  the  amphitheatre  of  Pompeii  (see  p.  142)  ;  Mars 
Venus ;  Pygmies  fighting  with  crocodiles  and  a  hippopotan 
exhausted  Bacchante.  —  Entrancewall,  to  the  right :  Hercules 
Nessus;  Pan  and  nymphs  playing  upon  musical  instrume 
Above,  Theseus  abandoning  Ariadne ;  Cimon  and  Pera ;  Here 
and  Auge.  In  the  centre,  lamps  and  other  clay  articles,  chiefly  i 
Aretinum.  —  Room  II.,  to  the  left:  Expiation  scene;  Achilles 
Troilus(?);  Judgment  of  Paris ;  Leda;  Banquet-scenes,  with 
scriptions;  Trojan  horse. 

Adjoining  are  four  rooms  containing  the  Collection  of  Anc 
Terracottas.  — I.  &  II.  Rooms:  Common  earthenware  articles 
household  use,  from  Pompeii.  In  Room  II.,  *Statuette  in  a  sit 
posture  of  a  bearded  man  with  a  tragic  aspect ,    from  Pompeii 


70      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

the  passage  to  the  third  room,  on  the  left  Artemis,  right  Medusa. 
—  III.  Room.  Several  Etruscan  sarcophagi  with  recumbent  figures 
on  the  lids.  Numerous  lamps.  In  the  cabinets  figures  of  small 
animals  :  horses,  pigs,  birds,  also  hands  and  other  votive-offerings, 
such  as  are  still  to  be  seen  in  Roman  Catholic  churches :  infant 
in  swaddling-clothes,  legs,  right  half  of  a  human  figure.  Opposite 
the  -window,  to  the  right,  a  colossal  Juno ;  left,  Jupiter  from  the 
small  temple  of  ^Esculapius  at  Pompeii  (p.  130).  Opposite  the 
door  of  egress,  above  three  terracotta  statutes,  the  fragments  of 
the  celebrated  Volscian  relief  from  Velletri,  in  the  ancient  Ita- 
lian style,  with  traces  of  colouring :  warriors  on  horseback  and 
in  chariots.  —  IV.  Room,  on  the  entrance- wall,  to  the  right: 
AntefixcB  and  gargoyles;  to  the  left,  reliefs.  Under  a  glass- 
shade  by  the  window:  small  figure  of  a  woman,  with  painted  gar- 
ments. On  the  window  wall,  to  the  left,  drinking-vessels ;  below, 
two  archaic  antefixae  ;  to  the  right,  below,  Etruscan  cists  ;  above, 
heads  with  figures  upon  them.  Opposite  the  entrance:  small  sta- 
tuettes and  busts,  many  of  great  excellence.  Opposite  the  window, 
to  the  left,  glazed  clay  vessels,  lamps,  and  candelabra;  to  the  right, 
vessels  ornamented  in  relief,  heads  and  figures.  Above  the  cases, 
vessels  embellished  with  figures. 

The  central  story  contains ,  on  the  left ,  the  Cumsean  Col- 
lection, which  was  purchased  by  the  Prince  of  Carignano  from 
the  heirs  of  the  Count  of  Syracuse  and  presented  to  the  Museum. 
It  consists  chiefly  of  vases,  terracottas,  and  bronzes  found  at  Oumae 
(see  p.  103).  By  the  window  of  the  First  Room  an  elegant  jewel- 
casket  in  wood,  with  several  gold  ornaments.  In  the  Second  Room 
tables  with  small  objects  in  bronze,  gold,  and  crystal ;  an  interest- 
ing head  in  wax  from  a  Roman  tomb.  Among  the  vases  at  the 
window  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  later  Attic  style,  under  glass, 
representing  a  battle  between  Amazons  and  Greeks. 

The  following  room  is  devoted  to  the  Collection  of  Engra- 
vings, consisting  of  19,300  examples  in  2'27  portfolios,  which  are 
exhibited  by  the  custodian  on  application.  This  room  also  contains 
copies  of  Pompeian  frescoes  on  the  walls. 

The  Collection  of  Renaissance  Works  (Raccolta  degli  Oggetti 
del  Cinquecento)  is  arranged  in  the  last  room.  *10,516.  Bronze 
bust  of  Dante,  said  to  be  modelled  from  his  death-mask;  10,527. 
Bust  in  bronze  of  Ferdinand  of  Arragon  ,  by  Guido  Mazzoni  (?). 
An  altar  with  reliefs  in  marble  of  the  German  school,  representing 
the  Passion  in  seven  sections. 

C.     Upper  Floor. 

From  the  top  of  the  stairs  we  first  turn  to  the  left  to  the  E. 
wing.  To  the  left  of  the  passage  which  we  enter  is  a  room  con- 
taining Copies  of  Pompeian  Pictures,  Remains  of  Food,  and  other 
objects  from  Pompeii. 


§ 

V. 

W 
C 


cs 

H 

e 
w 


Upper  Floor,  E.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      71 

The  copies  of  Pompeian  pictures  merit  careful  inspection,  as  they 
serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  brilliant  colouring  of  these  ancient  walls 
when  they  were  first  discovered.  —  Several  glass  cabinets  contain  "Ar- 
ticles of  Food  and  Objects  in  Common  Use  at  Pompeii.  In  the  centre  a  hand- 
some bottle  with  oil.  In  the  round  glass  cabinet  by  the  window  :  below 
a  double  pan  with  meat;  in  the  centre  a  glass  vessel  with  barley;  above' 
glass  tubes  with  olives.  In  the  glass-cases  to  the  right,  beyond  the 
window:  net-work  and  netting-needles,  straw  sandals,  purse  containing 
three  coins  (found  in  the  Villa  of  Diomedes),  shells,  etc.  By  the  entrance- 
wall  are  several  round  loaves ,  one  of  which  bears  the  baker's  name, 
Celer,  slave  of  Q.  Granius  Verus,  stamped  upon  it.  In  the  glass-cases 
by  the  left  wall:  grain,  nuts  figs,  pears,  honeycomb,  onions,  etc.  Some 
ivory  carvings  are  also  placed  here. 

Next,  on  the  right,  is  the  Library  of  the  Papyri.  This  col- 
lection was  discovered  in  a  villa  near  Herculaneum  in  1752. 

The  rolls  were  completely  encrusted  with  carbonaceous  matter,  and 
it  was  only  by  slow  degrees  that  the  real  value  of  the  discovery  was 
appreciated.  About  3000  were  discovered,  of  which  1800  only  have  been 
preserved.  The  thin  layers  of  the  bark  (libri)  of  the  papyrus  plant,  each 
of  the  breadth  of  one  column  of  writing,  are  pasted  together  and  rolled 
on  rods,  and  the  difficulties  encountered  in  disengaging  them  may  be 
imagined.  The  task  was  long  attempted  in  vain ,  until  the  Padre  Piaggi 
in  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  invented  an  ingenious  machine  by  which  the 
difficulty  was  removed.  Several  of  these  machines  may  be  seen  at  work 
in  the  second  room.  About  six  hundred  of  these  libri  have  been  by  degrees 
unrolled ,  and  whatever  of  their  contents  has  escaped  obliteration  has  been 
published  in  the  Volumina  Heracleensia.  The  library  belonged  to  a  follower 
of  the  Epicurean  school,  and  the  MSS.  consist  chiefly  of  treatises  in  Greek 
by  the  Epicurean  Philodemus,  a  contemporary  of  Cicero,  on  nature,  music, 
rhetoric,  etc.  There  are  also,  however,  considerable  fragments  of  Epicurus 
himself,  including  a  letter  to  a  young  girl.  —  Here  are  also  preserved  the 
triptychs  (about  300)  found  in  a  carbonised  box  at  Pompeii  in  June,  1875, 
containing  receipts  for  money  advanced  by  L.  Csecilius  Jucundus,  a  Pom- 
peian banker. 

In  the  room  opposite  copies  of  paintings  are  kept  for  sale. 

Following  the  passage  in  a  straight  direction,  we  next  enter 
the  *First  Section  of  the  Picture  Gallery,  containing  paintings 
of  the  Italian  schools  (the  Neapolitan  excepted),  and  including 
several  of  the  finest  works  in  the  collection.  Catalogues  at  the  en- 
trance of  each  room. 

I.  Room  (Roman  School).  *5.  Claude,  Quay  at  sunset  (dam- 
aged); 12.  Unknown  Artist]  (not  School  of  Raphael),  Female  por- 
trait ;  27.  Sassoferrato,  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds ;  28.  School  of 
Raphael,  Madonna  delle  Grazie;  47.  Pannini,  Charles  III.  en- 
tering St.  Peter's  at  Rome;  51.  R.  Mengs,  Ferdinand  IV.  at  the 
age  of  twelve;  53.  Pannini,  Charles  III.  visiting  Benedict  XIV. 

II.  Room  (Schools  of  Parma  and  Genoa).  2.  Bernardo  Strozzi, 
Portrait  of  a  Capuchin;  10.  Parmigianino ,  Holy  Family;  11. 
School  of  Correggio  (?),  Study  of  a  head  ;  12.  Parmigianino,  Ma- 
donna and  Child;  15,  20,  35,  37.  Other  examples  of  Parmigianino. 

III.  Room  (Schools  of  Lombardy  and  Parma).  School  of  Leo- 
nardo, 11.  John  the  Baptist,  15.  Madonna  with  two  donors  of  the 
picture ;  16.  Parmigianino,  St.  Clara;  17.  Cesa.re  da  Sesto,  Adoration 
of  the  Magi,  one  of  the  master's  chief  works  (from  Messina);  *18. 
Leonardo's  School  (not  Boltraffio),  The  young  Christ  and  John  kiss- 


72      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

ing  each  other;  19.  Same  School,  Madonna  (perhaps  an  early  copy 
of  the  Madonna  delle  Roccie  ascribed  to  Leonardo). 

IV.  Room  (Venetian  School).  1.  Alvise  Vivarini,  Madonna 
with  two  saints  (1485) ;  *5.  Bartol.  Vivarini,  Madonna  enthroned 
with  saints  (1469) ;  7.  Unknown  Artist  (not  Giorgione),  Portrait  of 
a  Prince  Antonello  of  Salerno  (?);  10,  13,  17,  25.  Bern.  Belotto 
(Canaletto),  Architectural  pieces;  11.  Jac.  Bassano ,  Venetian 
lady;  *15.  Sebastiano  del  Piombo,  Pope  Clement  VII.,  sketch  on 
slate;  19.  After  Titian,  Pope  Paul  III.  (Farnese),  possibly  an  ori- 
ginal, hut  much  damaged;  *20.  Titian,  Pope  Paul  III.  -with 
Cardinal  Alessandro  and  Ottavio  Farnese,  full  of  life,  although 
somewhat  sketchily  handled;  23.  Titian,  Portrait  of  Alessandro 
Farnese,  damaged;  *32.  Moretto,  Christ  scourged,  a  fine  and 
carefully  modelled  little  picture;  39.  Qarofalo,  St.  Sehastian; 
40.  School  of  Mantegna,  Suffering  of  Christ;  *46.  Mantegna,  St. 
Euphemia,  ruined;  45,  47,  51,  55,  59,  62.  Bern.  Belotto,  Archi- 
tectural pieces  ;  56.  Lor.  Lotto  ,  Madonna  with  St.  Peter  Martyr, 
an  early  work.  —  Proceeding  hence  in  a  straight  direction  we  reach 
the  6th,  and,  turning  to  the  right,  the  5th  room. 

V.  Room.  1.  Salvator  Rosa,  Christ  and  the  Doctors  in  the 
Temple;  *2.  Seb.  del  Piombo,  Holy  Family,  executed  under  the  in- 
fluence of  Michael  Angelo  and  Raphael  (unfinished);  *3.  Correggio, 
Madonna,  named  la  Zingarella  (gipsy,  from  the  head-gear)  or  del 
Coniglio  (rabbit),  a  charming  idyllic  composition,  painted  about 
1520  (much  darkened);  4.  Ant.  van  Dyck{J),  Portrait;  *5.  Titian, 
Danae,  painted  at  Rome  in  1545,  a  voluptuous  work,  showing  the 
master  —  at  sixty-eight  —  still  triumphing  over  every  difficulty  of 
art  and  possessed  of  all  his  youthful  vigour;  6.  Correggio(T),  The 
Child  Christ  asleep. 

*7.  Correggio,  Betrothal  of  St.  Catharine  with  the  Infant  Christ. 

This  work,  painted  in  1517-18,  is  known  as  'II  piccolo  Sposalizio'  in 
contra-distinction  to  the  picture  at  the  Louvre.  The  religious  meaning 
of  the  legend  has  sunk  entirely  into  the  background;  the  idea  of  the 
ecstatic  vision  of  the  Virgin  saint,  in  which  the  betrothal  symbolises  the 
renunciation  of  the  present  and  consecration  for  eternity,  is  lost  in  a 
cheerful  scene  of  natural  life. 

*8.  Titian,  Pope  Paul  III.,  painted  in  1543,  and  in  excellent 
preservation. 

'The  pontiffs  likeness  is  that  of  a  strong  man ,  gaunt  and  dry  from 
age  ....  A  forehead  high  and  endless,  a  nose  both  long  and  slender, 
expanding  to  a  flat  drooping  bulb  with  flabby  nostrils  overhanging  the 
mouth,  an  eye  peculiarly  small  and  bleary,  a  large  and  thin-lipped 
mouth,  display  the  character  of  Paul  Farnese  as  that  of  a  fox  whose 
wariness  could  seldom  be  at  fault.  The  height  of  his  frame,  its  size 
and  sinew,  still  give  him  an  imposing  air,  to  which  Titian  has  added 
by  drapery  admirable  in  its  account  of  the  under  forms,  splendid  in 
the  contrasts  of  its  reds  in  velvet  chair  and  silken  stole  and  rochet, 
and  subtle  in  the  delicacy  of  its  lawn  whites....  The  quality  of  life 
and  pulsation  so  often  conveyed  in  Titian's  pictures  is  here  in  its  highest 

development Both  face  and   hands  are   models  of  execution,    models 

of  balance  of  light  and  shade  and  harmonious  broken  tones'.  —  l  Titian', 
by  Crowe  &  Cavalcaselle. 


Upper  Floor,  E.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       73 

Ascribed  to  Correggio  (erroneously),  9.  Sketch  of  a  Descent 
from  the  Cross,    10.  Madonna  and  Child. 

*11.  Titian,  Philip  II.,  probably  painted  in  1552-3  from  a 
sketch  made  at  Augsburg  in  1550  by  order  of  Charles  V. 

The  first  painting  from  this  sketch  was  sent  in  1553  to  England  to 
assist  Philip  in  his  suit  for  the  hand  of  Mary  Tudor,  returned  after  the 
marriage  in  1554,  and  is  now  at  Madrid ;  the  Naples  picture  is  the  second 
version,  and  is  hardly  inferior  to  the  first. 

Ribera,  12.  St.  Sebastian,  13.  St.  Jerome  listening  to  the 
trumpet  of  judgment,  14.  St.  Jerome;  15.  Ouercino,  Magdalene; 
16.  Rubens,  Monk. 

VI.  Room.  To  the  right:  1.  Ann.  Carracci,  Pieta  (copy);  2. 
Schidone,  St.  Sebastian;  3.  Jac.  Bassano,  Raising  of  Lazarus ; 
5.  Oiulio  Romano,  Holy  Family,  called  Madonna  del  Gatto ;  6. 
Parmigianino,  Madonna  ('a  tempera');  *7.  Oiov.  Bellini,  Trans- 
figuration, with  beautiful  landscape ;  8.  Roman  School,  Portrait; 
10.  Marcello  Venusti,  Copy  of  Michael  Angelo's  Last  Judgment,  be- 
fore its  disfigurement;  *11.  Perugino,  Madonna;  12.  Andrea  del 
Sarto  (1),  Pope  Clement  VII.;  15.  Luini,  Madonna;  *16.  Oiov.  Bel- 
lini, (?more  probably  Antonello  da  Messina),  Portrait;  *17.  Un- 
known Artist  (not  Raphael),  Portrait  of  the  Cavaliere  Tibaldeo  (?). 

*19.  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Copy  of  Raphael's  portrait  of  Leo  X., 
with  Cardinals  Giulio  de'  Medici  and  Rossi  (1524). 

This  admirable  copy  was  sent  by  Clement  VII.  to  the  Marchese 
Federigo  Gonzaga  of  Mantua  instead  of  the  original  he  had  promised  (now 
in  the  Pitti  at  Florence),  and  afterwards  came  to  Naples.  Even  Giulio 
Eomano  was  deceived,  till  his  attention  was  directed  to  a  sign  made  on 
the  copy  by  Andrea  del  Sarto  to  distinguish  the  two  works.  Messrs. 
Crowe  and  Cavalcaselle  miss  in  this  work  'the  perfect  keeping,  ease, 
grandeur,  modelling,  and  relief  of  form',  which  characterise  the  original. 

*21.  Raphael  (?),  Portrait  of  Cardinal  Passerini;  *22.  Raphael, 
Holy  Family  (Madonna  col  divino  amore),  of  the  master's  Roman 
period,  probably  executed  by  Oiulio  Romano  ;  24.  Pietro  Novelli, 
surnamed  Monrealese,  Trinity;  26.  Garofalo,  Descent  from  the 
Cross ;  *28.  Palma  Vecchio ,  Madonna  with  St.  Jerome ,  John  the 
Baptist ,  St.  Catharine ,  and  donors ,  the  most  successful  of  the 
master's  'holy  conversations',  a  noble  composition  sparkling 
with  light  in  the  dresses  and  landscape  (C.  &  C);  30.  Domeni- 
chino,  Guardian  angel;  31.  Bronzino,  Holy  Family;  *32.  Claude, 
Landscape,  with  accessories  by  Lauri;  34.  Pinturicchio,  Assump- 
tion ;  *36.  Titian,  Repentant  Magdalene ;  40.  Leandro  Bassano, 
Portrait  of  a  Farnese ;  41.  Parmigianino,  Portrait;  43.  Ouercino, 
St.  Francis  of  Assisi ;  44.  Andrea  da  Salerno,  St.  Benedict  enthroned 
between  SS.  Placidus  and  Maurus,  below  the  four  great  Church 
Fathers  ;  47.  Quido  Reni,  Race  between  Atalanta  and  Hippomenes  ; 
49.  Bourguignon,  Battle;  51.  Jac.  Bassano,  Raising  of  Lazarus; 
53.  School  of  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Architect  (Bramante?)  showing  a 
design  to  a  nobleman  ;  55.  Salv.  Rosa,  Battle  ;  *57.  Seb.  delPiombo, 
Portrait  of  Pope  Hadrian  VI.  of  Utrecht  (1522-23) ;  58.  Tintoretto, 


74      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

Don  John  of  Austria;  59.  Ribera,  Silenus  and  satyrs  ;  61.  Fra  Bar- 
tolommeo,  Assumption  (1516). 

Returning  to  the  exit,  we  may  obtain,  to  the  left,  in  passing, 
a  glimpse  through  the  central  staircase  at  the  principal  hall  of  the 
Library. 

The  collection  embraces  about  200,000  printed  volumes  and  4000  MSS. 
Catalogues  for  the  use  of  visitors.  Besides  numerous  ancient  Italian  works 
there  are  several  valuable  Greek  and  Latin  MSS.  (Greek,  Lycophron's 
Alexandra,  Quintus  Smyrneeus,  date  1311,  etc.;  Latin,  Charisius,  Ars  gram- 
matica,  the  half-burned  MS.  of  Festus,  a  mass-book  with  beautiful  minia- 
tures of  fruit  and  flowers,  called  la  Flora,  etc.).  In  the  principal  hall  the 
custodian  awakens  a  remarkably  fine  echo.  Books  are  not  lent  out,  but 
within  the  library  three  may  be  used  at  a  time  (9-3  o'clock).  Readers 
enter  from  the  street  (not  through  the  museum)  by  the  last  door  in  the 
building,  and  ascend  by  the  staircase  to  the  right. 

The  W.  half  of  the  Upper  Floor,  reached  from  the  Grand  Stair- 
case by  ascending  to  the  right,  contains  the  glass,  coins,  half  of  the 
pictures,  vases,  small  bronzes,  and  precious  relics. 

Immediately  on  the  right  of  the  corridor,  which  we  now  enter, 
is  a  room  containing  the  Collection  of  Ancient  Crystal  (Vetri), 
the  most  extensive  of  the  kind  in  existence ,  showing  the  nu- 
merous ways  in  which  it  was  used  by  the  ancients.  Several  panes 
of  glass  from  the  villa  of  Diomedes  should  be  inspected ;  also  a 
beautifully-cut  glass  *Vase  with  white  Cupids  and  foliage  on  a 
blue  ground,  discovered  in  1837  in  a  tomb  in  the  Street  of  the 
Tombs  at  Pompeii,  when  it  was  filled  with  ashes. 

The  next  door  to  the  right  leads  to  the  Reserved  Cabinet  (Rac- 
colta  Pornografica),  to  which  men  only  are  admitted ;  it  contains 
mural  and  other  paintings  not  adapted  for  public  exhibition,  and 
numerous  bronzes,  some  of  them  of  considerable  artistic  merit. 

Opposite  this  collection ,  on  the  left  side  of  the  passage ,  is 
the  Collection  of  Coins  (Medagliere),  which  is  of  almost  unrivalled 
value  and  extent. 

The  First  Room  contains  the  Greek,  the  Second  Roman,  the  Thied 
Roman  and  Byzantine,  the  Fourth  and  Fifth  mediaeval  and  modern 
coins,  and  the  Sixth  the  dies  of  the  Neapolitan  mint,  together  with 
a  numismatic  library.  Catalogues  are  placed  over  the  glass-cases  for 
the  use  of  visitors.  In  the  corners:  Busts  of  distinguished  numismatists. 
—  The  Museo  Santangelo  (p.  76)  adjoins  the  6th  room,  but  is  not  acces- 
sible thence. 

"We  next  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  from  the  above-named 
passage  to  the  comparatively  uninteresting  Second  Section  of  the 
Picture  Gallery,  containing  works  of  the  Neapolitan,  later  Italian, 
and  foreign  schools. 

Room  I.  (Bolognese  School).  1.  Lavinia  Fontana,  Christ  and 
the  Samaritan  woman ;  3.  Ann.  Carracci,  Madonna  and  Child  with 
St.  Francis,  painted  on  Oriental  agate ;  9.  Ouido  Rent,  Ulysses 
and  Nausicaa;  15.  Lionello  Spada,  Cain  and  Abel;  38.  Francesco 
Romanelli,  Sibyl ;  43.  Ann.  Carracci,  Caricature  of  Caravaggio  as 
a  savage  with  a  parrot  and  a  dwarf,  in  the  corner  Carracci  himself' 
47.  Ouercino,  Peter  weeping;  55.  Ann.  Carracci,  Rinaldo  and  Ar- 


Upper  Floor,  W.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       75 

mida;  69.  M.  Caravaggio,  Judith  and  Holophernes  ;  71.  Ann.  Car- 
racci,  Landscape  with  St.  Eustachius. 

Boom  II.  (Tuscan  School).  5.  Sodorna,  Resurrection  of  Christ; 
25.  Gentile  da  Fabriano,  Madonna  and  angels ;  27.  Lor.  di  Credi, 
Nativity;  30.  Dom.  Ohirlandajo,  Madonna  and  saints;  31.  Matteo 
da  Siena,  Massacre  of  the  Innocents  (dated  1482);  32.  Sandro 
Botticelli,  Madonna  enthroned;  37.  Filippino  Lippi,  Annunciation 
and  two  saints ;  Ang.  Bronzino,  42.  Young  nohleman,  55.  Female 
portrait;  48.  Dom.  Ohirlandajo,  Madonna  and  John  the  Baptist. 
In  the  centre  of  the  room  is  a  large  bronze  tabernacle  with  the 
story  of  the  Passion,  executed  by  Jacopo  Siciliano  from  a  design 
said  to  have  been  made  by  Michael  Angelo. 

Room  III.  (Neapolitan  School  of  the  14th,  15th,  and  16th  cent- 
uries). Pietro  delDonzello,  1.  Christ  crucified  between  the  two  male- 
factors, 3.  St.  Martin;  7.  Ant.  Rimpacta  from  Bologna  (not  Lo  Zin- 
garo),  Madonna  and  Child  under  a  canopy,  surrounded  by  eight 
saints;  21,  25,  32.  Simone  Papa,  Crucifixion  and  Saints  ;24.  Andrea 
(Sabbatini)  da  Salerno,  Miracles  of  St.  Nicholas  of  Bari,  sadly  dam- 
aged ;  *34.  Andrea  da  Salerno,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  marked  by 
all  the  freshness  and  grace  of  the  S.  Italian  school,  but  also  by  the 
characteristically  slight  attention  paid  by  it  to  correct  handling.  — 
Adjoining  the  third  room  are  two  rooms  containing  Byzantine  and 
early  Tuscan  works,  most  of  them  badly  preserved  and  freely 
restored,  and  Neapolitan  paintings  of  the  13th  and  14th  centuries. 

Room  IV.  (Neapolitan  School  of  the  16-18th  centuries).  1.  Do- 
menico  Oargiulo,  surnamed  Micco  Spadaro,  Revolt  of  Masaniello 
in  the  Piazza  del  Mercato  at  Naples  in  1647;  5.  Oian  Filippo 
Criscuolo,  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  22,  27,  28,  30.  Works  by  Luca 
Oiordano ;  37.  Massimo  Stanzioni,  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds ; 
56.  Traversa,  Girl  with  doves;  63.  Pacecco  di  Rosa,  Madonna 
delle  Grazie ;  64.  Jose  Ribera,  surnamed  Spagnoletto,  St.  Bruno 
adoring  the  Holy  Child,  on  copper;  66.  Pietro  Novelli,  surnamed 
Monrealese,  Judith  and  Holophernes;  72.  Dom.  Oargiulo,  The 
smoker;  75.  Oiordano,  Pope  Alexander  II.  consecrating  the 
church  of  Monte  Cassino ;  76.  Oiordano,  Christ  shown  to  the  people 
(after  Diirer).  —  The  large  walnut  cabinet  in  the  centre  of  the 
room,  adorned  with  carved  reliefs  from  the  life  of  St.  Augustine, 
dates  from  the  16th  cent,  and  was  formerly  in  the  sacristy  of  the 
monastery  of  S.  Agostino  degli  Scalzi.  It  contains  media val  and 
Renaissance  ivory  carvings,  engraved  rock-crystals,  miniatures, 
and  the  like,  most  of  which  were  once  in  possession  of  the  Farnese 
family.  A  cabinet  by  the  wall  of  the  exit,  from  the  same  church, 
contains  majolicas  from  Urbino  and  elsewhere.  By  the  window  : 
the  *Cassetta  Farnese  in  gilded  silver,  executed  by  Oiovanni 
Bernardi  da  Castelbolognese,  a  goldsmith  of  Bologna  (d.  1555), 
with  six  large  and  beautifully  cut  stones  representing  Meleager  and 
Atalanta,  Procession  of  the  Indian  Bacchus,   Circus  games,  Battle 


76       Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

of  Amazons ,  Battle  of  the  Centaurs  and  Lapithse ,  Battle  of 
Salamis.  — By  the  other  window:  Small  Diana  on  the  stag,  in 
gilded  silver,  with  clock-work,  probably  the  toy  of  some  juvenile 
prince. 

Room  V.  (German  and  Flemish  Schools).  3.  Lower  German 
Master  (not  Lucas  van  Leyden),  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  28.  J. 
Kornelissen  of  Amsterdam  (not  Diirer),  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds 
(1512;  comp.  p.  266);  34.  Alb.  Diirer  (?) ,  Nativity;  40.  School  of 
Lucas  Cranach,  Christ  and  the  adulteress ;  42.  Amberger  (?),  Por- 
trait ;  *44.  Jan  van  Eyck  (?),  St.  Jerome  extracting  a  thorn  from 
the  paw  of  a  lion ,  one  of  the  finest  early-Flemish  paintings  in 
Italy;  51.  Unknown  Artist  (not  Holbein),  A  cardinal;  *53.  Lower 
German  Master,  Crucifixion ;  *54.  Pieter  Brueghel  the  Elder,  Parable 
of  the  seven  blind  men. 

Boom  VI.  (Netherlands  Schools).  1.  Style  of  Rembrandt,  Por- 
trait ;  12.  Ascribed  to  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  a  nobleman ;  17.  School 
of  Rembrandt,  Portrait;  19.  Frans  Snyders ,  Hunting  scene  ;  36. 
School  of  Van  Dyck ,  Crucifixion;  61.  Collection  of  21  miniatures 
of  the  House  of  Farnese  ;  73.  Mich.  Mierevelt,  Portrait;  78.  Ferd. 
Bol,  Portrait ;  83.  Ascribed  to  Van  Dyck ,  Portrait  of  a  Princess 
Egmont ;  89.  Villa  Medici  at  Rome  in  1615.  —  Entrance  hence 
into  the  collection  of  bronzes,  see  p.  78. 

From  the  5th  Room  of  the  paintings  we  enter  a  circular  room, 
the  first  of  the  collection  of  vases  (see  below),  and  pass  thence 
to  the  left  into  the  Museo  Santaugelo,  which  occupies  three 
rooms.  This  museum  was  formerly  in  the  Pal.  Santangelo,  but 
was  purchased  by  the  city  of  Naples  in  1865  and  placed  under  the 
care  of  the  Museo  Nazionale.    For  admission  apply  to  the  custodian. 

1st  Room  :  Vases.  In  the  cabinet  in  the  centre,  a  vase  with  Baccha- 
nalian scene.  In  the  middle  of  the  cabinet  on  the  left,  Bacchanalian  feast 
with  an  armed  dancing-woman.  To  the  right  by  the  window  a  "Cabinet 
with  drinking-horns  (rhyta). 

2nd  Room  :  Terracottas  and  Small  Bronzes.  On  the  left,  in  the  corner, 
a  vase  from  Nola,   with   the  return  of  Hephaestus  to  Olympus. 

3rd  Room:  Collection  of  Coins.  On  the  second  table  in  the  middle  of 
the  room  an  interesting  selection  of  'aes  grave*  and  other  Italian  coins. 
Also  several  large  vases:  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  a  vase  with  Pelops  and 
CEnomaus.  In  the  centre  a  vase  with  Orpheus  in  the  infernal  regions. 
Opposite  the  entrance,  to  the  right,  -Mercury  and  Spes,  relief -mosaics 
from  Metapontum,  unique  of  their  kind.     Cock-light. 

We  now  return  to  the  ** Collection  of  Vases,  which  begins 
with  the  circular  room  mentioned  above,  and  occupies  seven  rooms. . 
It  is  very  extensive  and  valuable,  and  is  particularly  rich  in  spe- 
cimens of  the  handsome  vases  of  Lower  Italy.  The  finest  speci- 
mens are  placed  by  themselves  on  short  columns.  The  collection 
is  arranged  in  chronological  order  after  the  second  room,  in  which 
from  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  middle  of  the  right  wall  are 
arranged  the  vases  with  black  figures;  then  follow  Greek  vases 
with  red  figures,  succeeded  by  vases  of  Italian  origin.  —  As 
Greek  vase-painting  was  adopted   by  the   Etruscans  and   modified 


Upper  Floor,  W.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      77 

according  to  the  national  taste,  so  this  branch  of  art  was  strongly  influ- 
enced in  Lower  Italy,  and  especially  in  Apulia ,  by  the  peculiar 
character  of  its  inhabitants.  The  vases  here  are  of  large  and  imposing 
dimensions,  and  the  artists,  not  satisfied  with  the  decoration  of  paint- 
ing alone,  have  frequently  superadded  reliefs  to  adorn  the  necks 
and  handles.  Their  aim  appears  to  have  been  to  cover,  if  pos- 
sible ,  the  entire  surface  of  the  vase  with  the  colours.  The 
different  series  of  representations,  one  above  another,  which  they 
bear,  are  often  without  connection ;  or  the  centre  is  occupied  by 
an  architectural  design  and  surrounded  irregularly  with  groups. 
The  figures  are  generally  of  a  somewhat  effeminate  mould,  and 
great  care  appears  to  have  been  bestowed  on  the  delineation  of 
rich  but  scantily  folded  garments.  The  representations  are  for 
the  most  part  borrowed  from  the  ancient  Greek  tragedy,  but  in 
some  cases  scenes  of  a  more  Italian  character  are  observed.  The 
period  of  their  manufacture  is  believed  to  have  been  shortly  after 
the  reign  of  Alexander  the  Great. 

The  floors  of  the  room  are  paved  with  ancient,  hut  freely  restored  Mosaics. 
1st  Room.  The  vases  in  the  1st  and  2nd  cabinets  (to  the  left,  count- 
ing from  the  entrance  from  the  picture-gallery),  and  the  three  placed  on 
columns  in  front  of  them  are  specimens  of  the  earliest  stage  of  this  art. 
They  are  of  a  yellowish  colour,  ornamented  with  two  rows  of  plants  or 
animals  of  brownish  or  black  colour,  and  are  round  or  oval  in  form. 
The  3rd  and  4th  cabinets  contain  Etruscan  and  Calene  (p.  7),  the  others 
Greek  vases,  some  of  them  beautifully  shaped,  but  nearly  all  black  and 
nnpainted. 

2nd  Boom.  Pavement  from  the  house  of  Diomedes  at  Pompeii. 
Opposite  the  entrance :  Condemnation  of  Marsyas.  By  the  window :  Two 
large  vases,  one  with  the  Death  of  Archemorus,  the  other  with  the  Fun- 
eral sacrifice  of  Patroclus.  Between  these,  under  a  glass  shade.  Lecythus 
(vase  for  ointment)  with  reliefs  of  Marsyas  and  Apollo.  In  a  cabinet 
opposite  the  window,  Lecythi,  remarkable  for  the  painting  on  white 
ground;  and  prize  vases  of  the  Panathenean  festivals. 

3rd  Eoom.  Opposite  the  entrance :  "Vase  with  lid,  Bacchanalian 
sacrifice.  Farther  on,  in  the  centre,  Actors  with  masks;  "Battle  of 
Amazons;  "Destruction  of  Troy.  By  the  window:  Large  vase,  from  Ruvo, 
the  largest  vase  yet  discovered,  with  a  Battle  of  the  Amazons  and 
Orpheus  in  Hades. 

4th  Room.  In  the  centre,  Medea  fleeing  after  the  murder  of  her 
children.  Lycurgus,  blinded  by  Bacchus,  slaying  his  wife.  By  the  window, 
the  celebrated  large  Vase  of  Darius  from  Canosa :  Darius  planning  the 
conquest  of  Greece;  above  is  Hellas,  at  whose  side  Athene  and  Zeus  are 
standing;  beneath  are  the  Persian  provinces  on  which  subsidies  are  levied 
for  the  war,  with  accompanying  names. 

5th  Room.  In  the  centre,  Orestes  seeking  refuge  from  the  Furies  at 
the  statue  of  Artemis;  Perseus  releasing  Andromeda ;  Tereus  on  horseback 
pursuing  Procne  and  Philomela.  Opposite  the  window,  to  the  left, 
Hercules  carrying  off  the  tripod.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  Lycurgus  kill- 
ing his  son;  Rape  of  the  golden  fleece;  Orestes  and  Electra  mourning  at 
the  grave  of  Agamemnon. 

6th  Room-  By  the  window  two  models  of  tombs,  which  illustrate 
the  manner  in  which  the  vases  were  discovered.  As  the  ornaments, 
weapons,  etc.,  ot  the  deceased  were  deposited  with  his  remains  in  the 
tomb,  so  also  were  these  vases  which  had  adorned  his  home;  in  some 
cases,  however,  the  nature  of  the  subjects  leads  to  the  conclusion  that 
they  were  manufactured  for  this  express  purpose.  In  the  centre,  drinking 
horns  and  Lecythi.   —   The  rest   of  the  vases  here   and  in  the  7th  Room 


78      Route  3.  NAPLES.  IV.  Museum. 

are  unimportant.  —  The  entrance  hence  to  the  small  bronzes  is  closed. 
We  therefore  proceed  to  the  principal  entrance  in  the  6th  room  of  the 
picture-gallery  (p.  76). 

The  collection  of  the  **  Small  Bronzes  is  the  finest  of  its  kind 
in  existence  and  is  arranged  in  a  masterly  fashion.  It  consists 
chiefly  of  household  utensils,  lamps,  candelabra,  tools  of  all  kinds, 
musical  and  surgical  instruments,  weapons,  etc.,  most  of  them  found 
at  Pompeii,  and  is  admirably  adapted  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  life 
and  habits  of  the  ancient  Italians.  The  use  of  most  of  the  objects 
is  too  obvious  to  require  explanation. 

1st  Room  :  The  most  valuable  objects  are  in  the  centre,  grouped 
around  three  large  Money- Chests ,  such  as  usually  stood  in  the 
Atria  of  Pompeian  houses.  To  the  left  of  the  corner :  Dish-warmer, 
in  the  form  of  a  fortress.  Farther  to  the  right:  large  Divan  or 
chair.  Cooking  Stove.  Table  Support,  with  Victoria  bearing  a  tro- 
phy. Farther  on,  parallel  with  the  window-wall  and  by  the 
windows  :  Bisellia  (seats  of  honour)  decorated  with  heads  of  horses 
and  swans,  and  a  large  shallow  Dish  with  inlaid  silver  ornaments. 
In  a  glass-case,  a  *Tripod  for  sacrifices,  richly  decorated,  from  the 
temple  of  Isis  at  Pompeii.  Then  iron  Stocks  from  the  gladiators' 
barracks  at  Pompeii,  near  which  three  skeletons  were  found.  Far- 
ther back,  also  under  glass  :  *  Candelabrum  from  the  Villa  of  Dio- 
medes,  consisting  of  a  square  slab  which  bears  a  small  Bacchus 
riding  on  a  panther  besides  a  small  altar  and  a  pilaster  adorned  with 
a  mask  and  bucranium  (skull  of  an  ox)  ;  the  lamps  hang  from  four 
branches;  those  at  present  placed  there  are  not  the  original.  Then, 
Baths.  Large  Brazier  from  the  Thermae  at  Pompeii  (p.  136), 
ornamented  with  a  cow's  head,  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  foun- 
der M.  Nigidius  Vacca.  —  The  Cabinets  along  the  wall  are  number- 
ed from  right  to  left,  beginning  at  the  left  entrance,  i-xiv.  Bronze 
Vessels,  xv,  xvi.  Water-taps  and  Gargoyles,  xvn.  Implements  of 
the  Palmstra,  including  numerous  Scrapers  for  removing  the  oil  and 
dust  from  the  body  after  gymnastic  exercise ;  garniture  of  a  ring, 
xvm-xx.  Door-plates,  Locks,  and  Keys,  with  fine  inlaid  work, 
xxi-xxnr.  Iron  Utensils,  xxiv-xxvn.  Lamps,  xxvm-xxx.  Mount- 
ings, Handles,  Table  Supports,  etc.  ■ —  Among  the  cabinets  stand 
several  Candelabra. 

2nd  Room  :  A  "'Model  of  Pompeii ,  representing  the  ruins  as 
they  were  in  1871  (comp.  Plan,  p.  120)  on  a  scale  of  1 :  100.  — 
Along  the  walls  are  ancient  disk-shaped  Bells,  and  numerous  bronze 
vessels  and  candelabra.  Cabinets  xxxii-xliii,  1-lv,  lviii-lx.  con- 
tain Utensils  of  various  kinds  and  shapes,  xliv,  xlv.  Ladles  and 
Funnels;  elaborate  Cooking  Apparatus,  xlvi.  Tripods;  small  Bra- 
ziers, xlvii-li.  Scales  and  Weights,  lvi.  Mirrors  and  Ink-holders  ; 
below,  objects  in  Bone  and  Ivory,  lvii.  Bells,  Harness,  Ornaments, 
Buckles  (fibula?).  —  In  the  glass-cases :  lxi.  Compasses ,  Angling 
Hooks  ,   Anchors  ,   Steering  Apparatus,    lxii.  Musical  Instruments, 


Upper  Floor,  W.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       79 

including  the  'sistrum'  used  in  the  worship  of  Isis.  lxiii.  Astragali 
Dice,  Tesserae  (tickets  of  bone,  ivory,  etc.,  including  some  theatre- 
tickets),  lxiii  b.  Trinkets  and  Toilette  Articles  in  bronze  and 
ivory,  lxiv.  Sieve.  Ixv,  lxvi.  Surgical  Instruments,  lxvii,  lxviii. 
Ivory  and  Bone  Carvings.  —  To  the  left,  near  the  model  of  Pom- 
peii :  Leaden  Vessels  of  cylindrical  form.  —  At  the  back  is  a  Tri- 
clinium ,  or  three  dining-sofas ,  each  for  three  persons  (the  table 
was  placed  in  the  middle).  By  the  window,  under  a  glass  shade, 
the  impression  in  hardened  ashes  of  the  breast  of  a  girl  and  her 
skull,  from  the  Villa  of  Diomedes  at  Pompeii  (p.  142). 

The  last  room  contains  the  Collection  of  Precious  Belies  (Og- 
getti  Preziosi),  antique  cut  gems,  and  gold  and  silver  objects. 

By  thb  Window,  the  celebrated  *Tazza  Farnese,  a  vessel  of 
onyx  with  beautiful  reliefs,  the  largest  of  its  kind.  On  the  out- 
side a  large  Medusa's  head  in  relief;  in  the  inside  a  group  of  seven 
persons,  referred  by  some  to  the  occasion  of  an  inundation  of  the 
Nile,  by  others  to  a  festival  in  spring,  instituted  by  Alexander  at 
the  foundation  of  Alexandria. 

Tablbs  in  thb  Centhb.  The  first  near  the  window  contains 
the  *  Cameos,  or  stones  cut  in  relief,  many  of  which  are  very  inter- 
esting :  in  front  of  the  case  to  the  left,  *16.  Zeus  in  conflict  with 
the  Titans,  by  Anthemion ;  32.  Head  of  Medusa;  44.  A  fine  head 
of  Augustus;  65.  Part  of  the  group  of  the  Farnese  bull,  said  to 
have  been  used  as  a  model  at  its  restoration ;  below  it,  1857.  Head 
of  a  Vestal.  — Adjacent  are  the  Intagli,  or  stones  on  which  the 
designs  recede(so  placed  that  the  designs  are  seen  through  the  stone): 
209.  Ajax  and  Cassandra;  213.  Apollo  and  Marsyas;  *392. 
Bacchante.  The  table  in  the  middle  contains  cut  gems  of  the 
mediaeval  and  Renaissance  epochs. 

The  Cabinets  by  the  entrance-wall  and  the  window-wall  and 
at  the  front  part  of  the  left  wall  contain  well-executed  Objects  in 
Silver:  Vases,  goblets,  tablets,  spoons,  buckles;  also  objects  in 
ivory,  medallion  reliefs,  etc.  The  most  noteworthy  objects  are  the 
following:  Six  fine  large  vases;  Six  goblets  with  foliage;  Small 
sun-dial;  Vase  in  the  shape  of  a  mortar,  with  the  apotheosis 
of  Homer;  Three  tripods;  Rings  from  Greek  tombs  at  Armento 
in  the  Basilicata;  Silver  Plate  from  the  house  of  Meleager  at 
Pompeii,  including  two  handsome  goblets  with  centaurs. 

The  Objects  in  Gold  begin  at  the  farther  end ,  to  the  right, 
with  the  Greek  ornaments  ,  which  include  a  diadem  from  Venosa, 
and  *Ornaments  found  in  a  tomb  at  Taranto;  large  gold  lamp  from 
Pompeii,  admirably  executed  and  well  preserved.  Then,  opposite 
the  entrance,  ornaments  from  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  some  set 
with  pearls  and  precious  stones  :  Nos .  1  -4.  Chain,  bracelet,  and  a  pair 
of  earrings  which  were  found  with  a  female  skeleton  in  the  house 
of  Diomedes  at  Pompeii ;  then,  186,  187.  Two  cloak-clasps;  two 
massive  armlets  in  the  form  of  serpents;  handsome  necklaces,  etc. 


80      Route  3.  NAPLES.  V.  The  Higher 

—  There  is  also  an  interesting  collection  of  ancient  Rings,  includ 
ing  a  gold  ring  with  a  portrait,  possibly  of  Brutus,  with  the  artist' 
name  Anaxilas. 

V.  The  Higher  Quarters  :  Capodimonte,  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuel* 
Castel  S.  Elmo,  S.  Martino. 

The  continuation  of  the  Toledo  beyond  the  Museum  is  forme 
by  the  Strada  S.  Teresa  degli  Scalzi  (PI.  E,  3,  2),  which  grad 
ually  ascends.  From  the  beginning  of  this  street ,  opposite  th 
N.W.  corner  of  the  Museum,  the  Strada  Salvator  Rosa  (p.  82 
diverges  to  the  left.  We  follow  the  Strada  di  S.  Teresa ,  and  i 
about  10  min.  cross  the  Ponte  delta  Sanith,  a  viaduct  constructe 
in  1809  across  the  quarter  della  Sanita  which  lies  below. 

Descending  to  the  left  immediately  beyond  the  bridge,  and  from  th 
lower  end  of  the  street  entering  the  winding  Strada  S.  Gennaro  de'  Povei 
to  the  right,  we  soon  reach  the  large  hospice  or  poor-house  of  that  nami 
At  the  back  of  the  building  is  the  church  of  S.  Gennaro  (St.  Januariui 
founded  in  the  8th  cent,  on  the  site  of  a  chapel  where  St.  Januarius  we 
interred ,  but  now  completely  modernised.  The  vestibule  of  the  inm 
court  is  embellished  with  Frescoes  from  the  history  of  the  saint  by  At 
drea  da  Salerno  (?) ,  unfortunately  in  bad  preservation.  At  the  back  c 
the  church  is  the  entrance  to  the  extensive  Catacombs  (PL  D,  1)  of  Naple: 
admission  to  which  is  obtained  by  applying  to  the  porter  of  the  hospic 
(1  fr.  for  each  person,  and  trifling  fee  to  the  attendant). 

The  Catacombs  of  S.  Grennaro  consist  of  four  main  galleries,  c 
which,  however,  two  only  are  now  connected  by  staircases  and  accessibl 
to  visitors,  together  with  a  long  series  of  lateral  passages  and  buri; 
chambers  (cubicitla).  Along  the  walls  are  excavated  niches  of  three  di 
ferent  forms,  ranged  in  rows  one  above  another.  A  few  of  the  chambei 
lie  below  the  level  of  the  galleries.  The  oldest  part  of  the  catacomt 
dates  from  the  first  century  of  our  era.  In  point  of  architecture  they  fa 
surpass  the  Roman,  though  inferior  in  every  other  respect.  The  two  larg 
ante-chambers  were  used  for  the  religious  services  customary  at  an  intermen 

Information  as  to  the  history  and  decorations  of  these  early  Christia 
burial-places  will  be  found  in  the  Handbook  for  Central  Italy.  The  ii 
scriptions  found  here  have  been  placed  in  the  Museum.  Among  th 
paintings  may  be  mentioned  the  pleasing  decorations  of  the  two  ant( 
rooms,  which  recall  the  Pompeian  style,  a  figure  of  the  Good  Shepher 
in  the  first  gallery,  the  portraits  on  the  tomb  of  Theotecnus  (beginnin 
of  the  4th  cent.)  in  the  second  gallery,  and  a  figure  of  Christ  of  the  5t 
or  6th  cent,  (but  frequently  retouched)  in  the  so-called  Basilica  di  S.  Get 
naro.  The  bones  which  fill  many  of  the  chambers  and  corridors  at 
generally  those  of  victims  of  the  plagues  which  ravaged  Naples  in  th 
16th  century.  The  Priapus  column  with  the  Hebrew  inscription  is 
mediteval  hoax. 

There  is  another  (but  unimportant)  series  of  catacombs,  of  the  4th  an 
5th  cent.,  beneath  the  church  of  S.  Maria  della  Sanita,  below  the  bridg 
of  that  name. 

The  Strada  Nuova  di  Capodimonte,  as  the  street  ascendin 
beyond  the  Ponte  della  Sanita  is  called,  leads  in  a  few  minutes  t 
a  circular  space  called  the  Tondo  di  Capodimonte  (PI.  E  1 ;  ordi 
nary  cab-fares  thus  far).  The  road  now  describes  a  lon°-  curve  t 
the  left  and  then  divides,  the  N.  branch  leading  to  Secondiglianc 
and  the  S.  branch  to  the  entrance  of  the  park  of  Capodimonte 
Walkers  ascend  the  steps  ,   and  at  the  top  follow  the  road  to  th 


Quarters.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      81 

right.  From  the  Tondo  cli  Capodimonte  to  the  palace  is  a  walk  of 
7  minutes.  —  A  short  distance  before  the  park-gates  is  the  large 
main  reservoir  of  the  new  waterworks  (Acqua  di  Serino ;  PI.  F,  1  ; 
p.  32),  with  five  basins  hewn  in  the  rock,  and  a  capacity  of  80,000 
cubic  meters.  Permission  to  inspect  the  works  is  obtained  at  the 
office  of  the  Naples  Waterworks  Co.,  Str.  Ohiatamone  5 bis. 

The  royal  Palazzo  di  Capodimonte  (PL  E,  F,  1 ;  daily  10-4, 
with  permesso,  see  p.  35;  guide  not  necessary  for  the  garden),  sit- 
uated above  the  town  to  the  N.  on  the  eminence  of  that  name, 
was  begun  in  1738  by  Charles  III.,  but  not  completed  till  1834- 
39  in  the  reigrr  of  Ferdinand  II.  The  edifice  was  designed  by 
Medrano ,  the  architect  of  the  Teatro  S.  Carlo.  The  *Oardens  are 
partly  laid  out  in  the  English  style.  Splendid  views  are  enjoyed 
from  tha  large  evergreen  oak  and  other  points.  Permessi  must 
once  more  be  shown  at  an  enclosed  part  called  the  Bosco  (fee  25- 
50  c;  inaccessible  in  April  and  May  when  the  pheasants  are  sitting). 
One-horse  carriages  are  not  admitted  to  the  park. 

The  palace  contains  the  royal  Mdseo  di  Capodimonte  (fee  1  fr.) ,  a 
somewhat  extensive,  hut  not  very  valuable  collection  of  pictures,  chiefly 
by  modern  Neapolitan  masters ,  and  of  modern  sculptures ,  distributed 
throughout  the  different  apartments.  The  names  of  the  artists  are  attach- 
ed to  the  frames.  The  following  are  worthy  of  mention:  Sackert, 
Wild- boar  hunt  in  the  Bosco  di  Persano ;  Chase  of  wild  fowl  on  the 
Lago  Fusaro,  by  the  same;  Lemasle,  Marriage  of  the  Duchesse  de 
Berry;  Camuccini,  Death  of  Csesar;  Celentano,  Benvenuto  Cellini  at  the 
Castel  Si  Angelo;  Bayez ,  Ulysses  and  Alcinous;  a  table  with  ancient 
mosaic  from  Pompeii;  Marinelli,  Cleopatra  at  her  toilet;  Virginia  Lebrun, 
Portraits  of  the  Duchess  of  Parma  and  Maria  Theresa;  Angelica  Kauf- 
mann,  Ferdinand  I.  and  his  consort  with  their  children;  Podesta,  Or- 
pheus; De  Angelis,  Death  of  Phaedra ;  Guerra,  Ossian ;  Postiglione,  Andro- 
cles ;  Bergi,  Epaminondas  at  Mantinea ;  Carelli,  Capture  of  the  Porta  Pia 
at  Rome ,  Sept.  20,  1870 ;  Vanvitelli,  View  of  Piedigrotta.  —  The  palace 
also  contains  a  collection  of  porcelain  from  the  former  manufactory  of 
Capodimonte,  including  some  exquisitely  delicate  and  transparent  spe- 
cimens of  pdte  tendre,  coloured  decorations  in  relief,  and  (later)  imitations 
of  the  antique.  The  manufactory  was  founded  in  1743  by  Charles  III., 
improved  in  1771  by  Ferdinand  IV. ,  and  suppressed  by  the  French  in 
1806.  The  valuable  collection  of  armour  (Armerla)  contains  the  ancient 
accoutrements  of  kings  Roger  and  Ferdinand  I. ,  of  Alexander  Farnese, 
and  of  Victor  Amadeus  of  Savoy ;  the  sword  presented  by  Ferdinand  I. 
to  the  gallant  Scanderbeg  (d.  1467) ;  also  an  ornamental  cradle  presented 
by  the  city  of  Naples  to  the  present  queen  Margaret  in  1869. 

Near  Capodimonte  are  the  villas  Meuricoffre  (generally  open  on 
presentation  of  the  visitor's  card),  Ruffo,  Avelli,  and  Forquet,  com- 
manding fine  views  in  all  directions.  —  To  the  W. ,  opposite  Capo- 
dimonte, stands  the  Villa  Qallo  (PI.  D,  1),  founded  in  1809  by  the 
Duca  di  Gallo. 

Following  the  Salita  di  Capodimonte ,  opposite  the  entrance  to 
the  park  of  Capodimonte ,  and  after  a  few  minutes  turning  to  the 
left,  we  reach  the  Observatory  [Osservatorio  Reale,  PI.  F,  1),  occu- 
pying the  summit  of  the  hill.  It  is  popularly  called  La  Specola, 
or,  after  the  villa  of  a  Spanish  marquis  which  once  stood  here,  Mira- 
dois.    The  observatory  was  founded  in  1812,   and  enlarged  in  1820 

Baedeker.     Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  g 


82      Route  3.  JXAi'.LJiB.  V.  The  Higher 

from  plans  by  the  celebrated  Piazzi  (d.  1826),  under  whom  it  attain- 
ed a  European  reputation.  The  present  director,  Comm.  de  Gasparis, 
has  distinguished  himself  by  the  discovery  of  several  planetoids.  — 
On  the  way  to  the  observatory  a  path  descends  in  steps  past  the 
church  de   Miracoli  to  the  Strada  Foria  (see  p.  41). 


Opposite  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  Museum,  as  mentioned  at 
p.  80,  the  Strada  Salvator  Rosa  (PI.  D,  E,  3,  4)  ascends  the 
heights  of  S.  Elmo  and  the  Posilipo.  Donkeys  may  be  hired  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  and  also  farther  up :  to  S.  Martino  l-172ir.  (as 
quick  as  a  carriage,  or  quicker).  The  tramway  (No.  6,  p.  23)  as- 
cends at  this  point  by  the  rack-and-pinion  system.  In  10  minutes 
walk  from  the  Museum  we  reach  the  small  Piazza  Salvator  Rosa, 
where  the  Str.  Salvator  Rosa  turns  to  the  right  towards  Arenella, 
birthplace  of  Salvator  Rosa,  the  painter. 

In  a  straight  direction  begins  here  the  *Corso  Vittorio  Emannele 
(PI.  D,  4;  E,  5;  B,  C,  D,  E,  6;  B,  7;  steam-tramway,  see  p.  23), 
which  is  carried  by  means  of  windings  and  several  viaducts  round 
the  hills  of  S.  Elmo  and  the  Posilipo.  It  then  skirts  the  slopes 
for  some  distance,  and  at  length  gradually  descends  to  the  Piazza 
di  Piedigrotta  (p.  86)  and  the  Mergellina  (p.  86),  commanding  ad- 
mirable views  of  the  town,  the  bay,  and  Mt.  Vesuvius.  The  road 
was  begun  by  the  Bourbons  for  military  purposes,  but  was  not  com- 
pleted till  1875.  The  distance  from  the  Piazza  Salvator  Rosa  to 
S.  Maria  di  Piedigrotta  is  upwards  of  2^2  M.  From  the  Corso  a 
number  of  lanes  descend,  some  of  them  by  means  of  steps,  to  the 
lower  part  of  the  city.  Those  diverging  from  the  first  third  of  the 
road  lead  to  the  Toledo,  those  from  the  last  third  descend  to  the  Chiaja. 

S.  Elmo  and  S.  Martino  are  reached  from  the  Corso  Vittorio 
Ernanuele  by  means  of  two  somewhat  steep  Bridle  Paths,  ascend- 
ing in  places  by  shallow  steps.  One  of  these,  the  Pedimentina  di 
S.  Martino  (PI.  E,  D,  5),  begins  about  Y2  M.  from  the  Piazza  Sal- 
vator Rosa,  beyond  the  viaduct  and  the  angle  made  by  the  street, 
beside  the  house  No.  350 ,  and  reaches  the  entrance  of  the  Castel 
in  1/4  hr.  The  other,  the  Salita  del  Petraio  (PL  D,  6,  5),  begins 
about  10  min.  farther  on,  between  the  houses  Nos.  227  and  226. 
Donkeys  for  hire  at  both.  —  A  much  longer  route  is  by  the  carriage- 
road,  following  the  Str.  Salvator  Rosa  to  the  small  chapel  of  S. 
Maria  Costantinopolitana  (PL  C,  4),  and  diverging  there  to  the  left 
(carriage  see  p.  22). 

The  easiest  ascent  is  by  one  of  the  Cable  Tramways  mentioned 
at  p.  23,  which  pass  under  the  Corso  and  unite  the  lower  town 
with  the  new  quarter  of  Rione  Vomero  (PI.  C ,  D,  5) ,  which  is 
still  only  partly  built  and  sparsely  inhabited.  One  of  these  has  its 
lower  terminus  ,at  Monte  Santo,  to  the  W.  of  the  Toledo  (PI.  E,  4, 
p.  40),  the  other,  more  convenient  for  the  majority  of  travellers, 
begins  in  the  Rione  Amedeo  (PI.   C,  6),   and  has  an  intermediate 


Quarters.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.       83 

station  near  the  Hotel  Bristol  in  the  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele.  The 
upper  terminus  of  the  former  line  is  about  i/4  M.  to  the  N.  W.,  that 
of  the  other  1/2  M-  t0  tae  w-i  of  the  entrance  to  the  Castel  S.  Elmo, 
on  the  N.AV.  side  (marked  'Ingr.'  on  our  Plan). 

The  Castel  Sant'  Elmo  (875  ft.),  or  Sant'  Ermo,  formerly  Sant' 
Erasmo,  was  erected  under  Robert  the  Wise  in  1343  and  conside- 
rably enlarged  and  strengthened  in  the  15-17th  centuries.  The 
vast  walls ,  the  fosses  hewn  in  the  solid  tuffstone  rock ,  its  sub- 
terranean passages,  and  ample  cistern  formerly  obtained  for  it  the 
reputation  of  impregnability.  The  fort  is  now  used  as  a  military 
prison,  and  is  accessible  only  by  special  permission. 

On  entering  the  precincts  of  the  fortifications  we  proceed  to  the 
suppressed  Carthusian  monastery  of  — 

*S.  Martino  (PI.  D,  5),  which  is  not  less  remarkable  for  the 
beauty  of  its  situation  and  its  views,  than  for  the  value  of  its  con- 
tents. It  was  begun  in  1325  by  Duke  Charles  of  Calabria,  but  was 
entirely  rebuilt  in  the  17th  century.  Since  its  dissolution,  the 
monastery  has  been  placed  under  the  management  of  the  Museo  Na- 
zionale,  and  is  shown  daily,  10-4  o'clock  (adm.  1  fr. ;  Sun.,  9-2, 
free).    If  time  be  limited,  the  Belvedere  should  first  be  visited. 

Beyond  the  court,  in  which  is  situated  the  main  entrance  (always 
closed)  of  the  church,  we  reach  the  Monastery  Court,  where  sarcophagi, 
inscriptions,  marble  coats-of-arms ,  etc.,  are  exhibited,  and  enter  a  wide 
archway,  immediately  to  the  right  in  which  is  the  former  laboratory  of 
the  convent,  a  large  and  lofty  vaulted  apartment;  on  the  walls  are  church- 
banners.  —  The  Hall  to  the  left  of  this  contains  the  pictures,  for  which 
there  was  no  room  in  the  Museo  Nazionale.  The  title  and  artist's  name 
are  attached  to  each  frame.  Some  of  the  pictures  are  good  examples  of 
Neapolitan  masters  of  the  16-17th  centuries.  In  the  centre  of  the  apart- 
ment is  the  gorgeous  Barge,  used  for  excursions  in  the  gulf  of  Naples  by 
Charles  III.  The  adjoining  Room  contains  Battle  Pictures  (explained  by 
the  attendant)  and  ancient  Views  of  Naples,  with  an  interesting  represen- 
tation of  a  royal  visit  to  the  festival  of  Piedigrotta.  The  State  Coach  in  the 
centre  used  to  appear  in  municipal  festivals  at  Naples,  and  was  occupied 
by  Victor  Emmanuel  and  Garibaldi  on  entering  the  city  in  1860.  The 
uniforms  of  the  former  Consiglieri  Mnnicipali  are  preserved  in  a  case  in  this 
room.    A  third  small  Room  contains  ancient  banners. 

We  now  return  through  the  laboratory  to  the  monastery-court ,  and 
enter  a  long,  narrow  Corridor  by  the  open  door  in  the  middle  of  the  wall. 
Here  on  each  side  is  an  open  door.  —  That  to  the  left  admits  to  a  room 
containing  Models  of  Italian  Fortresses.  —  The  door  to  the  right  leads 
through  a  passage  to  a  tasteful  'Representation  of  the  Infant  Christ  in 
the  manger  (LPresepe^) ,  with  the  three  Magi ,  and  scenes  of  Neapolitan 
life,  in  a  mountainous  landscape.  This  representation,  the  delight  of  all 
Neapolitans,  young  and  old,  is  worth  seeing  on  account  of  the  costumes 
and  as  a  specimen  of  the  erections  which  were  common  at  Christmas  in 
the  private  houses  and  churches  of  Naples  since  the  15th  century. 

The  narrow  corridor  (door  immediately  to  the  left)  leads  to  the  "Clois- 
ters, with  60  columns  of  white  marble.  — We  then  traverse  the  Audience 
Room  and  the  Chapter-hoose,  the  roof  of  which  is  painted  by  Corenzio  (to 
the  right,  the  'Coro  dei  Laici  Conversi'),  to  the  church,  of  which  we  first 
enter  the  choir. 

The  Church,  which  consists  of  a  nave  with  three  chapels  on  each 
side,  is  richly  embellished  with  marble.  On  the  ceiling  is  an  Ascension, 
and  between  the  windows  the  Twelve  Apostles,  by  Lanfranco.  Over  the 
principal  entrance  a  "Descent  from  the  Cross  by   Stanzioni  (damaged),  and 


84      Route  3.  NAPLES.       V.  The  Higher  Quarters. 

next  to  it  Moses  and  Elias  by  Spagnoletto.  The  Apostles  above  the  archei 
of  the  chapels  are  by  the  same  artist.  Frescoes  of  the  choir  by  th< 
Cavaliere  d'Arpino.  The  Crucifixion  by  Lanfranco.  On  the  wall  at  the  E, 
end,  Nativity,  unfinished,  by  Outdo  Reni  (who  died  during  the  progress  ot 
the  work).  On  the  sides :  to  the  left,  Communion  of  the  Apostles,  by  Spa- 
gnoletto (in  the  style  of  Paolo  Veronese),  and  Christ  washing  the  disciples' 
feet,  by  Caracciolo;  to  the  right,  the  same  subject  by  Stanzioni,  and  In- 
stitution of  the  Eucharist,  by  the  pupils  of  P.  Veronese.  The  marble  de- 
corations of  the  church,  twelve  different  roses  of  Egyptian  basalt,  after  Co- 
simo  Fansaga  of  Carrara,  the  beautiful  mosaic  marble  pavement  by  Presti. 
and  the  high-altar  by  Solimena  also  merit  inspection.  —  The  Saoeisty. 
entered  to  the  left  from  the  choir,  is  adorned  with  intarsias  by  Bonaventura 
Presto,  and  paintings  by  the  Cavaliere  aVArpino,  Stanzioni,  and  Caravaggio.  — 
Beyond  it  is  the  Tesoeo,  containing  as  an  altar-piece  a  "Descent  from  the 
Cross,  the  masterpiece  of  Spagnoletto,  fine  in  colouring  and  admirable 
for  its  delineation  of  pain ;  on  the  ceiling  Judith,  by  Luca  Giordano,  said 
to  have  been  painted  in  48  hours,   when   the  artist  was  in  his  72nd  year. 

We  return  through  the  chapter-house  to  the  cloisters;  to  the  right  is 
the  entrance  to  the  — 

Museum.  Room  I.  Silver  vessels;  objects  in  marble;  reliquary.  — 
Room  II.  Majolicas  from  Castelli  in  the  Abruzzi  (Collection  Bonghi),  in- 
teresting as  specimens  of  a  local  industry,  but  otherwise  unimportant: 
most  of  the  pieces,  both  in  this  and  the  other  rooms,  date  from  the  17th  cent, 
or  later.  —  Room  III.  Modern  glass,  porcelain,  and  ivory  carvings;  huge 
old  choir-books  with  miniatures;  priest's  robe.  —  Room  IV.  Mirrors 
with  chased  figures;  old  chairs.  —  Room  V.  Prisonjacket  and  other 
relics  of  the  Italian  statesman  Carlo  Poerio  (1803-67;  comp.  p.  40)  and  oi 
his  brother  Alessandro ,  the  patriotic  poet  (b.  1802),  who  died  in  1848 
from  wounds  received  at  the  defence  of  Venice ;  the  hat  of  Card.  Ruffo. 
—  From  R.  II.  we  turn  to  the  right  into  Room  VI.  Figures  in  biscuit 
china  from  the  manufactory  of  Capodimonte.  To  the  right,  in  a  niche, 
is  the  wax  figure  of  Padre  Rocco,  a  Neapolitan  street-preacher  and  philan- 
thropist who  died  at  the  beginning  of  this  century.  On  the  floor  of  this 
and  the  following  room,  mosaics  of  the  signs  of  the  Zodiac.  —  Room  VII. 
The  remainder  of  the  collection  of  majolicas.  The  best  pieces  are  (beginning 
to  the  right):  Heliodorus;  Israelites  crossing  the  Red  Sea;  Toilette  oi 
Venus;  Diana  asleep;  Judgment  of  Paris,  a  curious  rendering  by  Ant.  Lolli; 
Apollo  and  the  Python;  Boar-hunt;  Battle  of  Alexander;  Bacchic  pro- 
cession; Galatea;  Jupiter  and  Juno  (groups  from  the  frescoes  by  the  Car- 
racci  in  the  Pal.  Farnese  in  Rome);  David  and  Goliath;  Bacchus  and 
Ariadne ;  Finding  of  Moses.  —  Room  VIII.  (to  the  left  of  R.  I.).  Uniforms 
of  the  Bourbon  period.  —  Rooms  IX.  and  X.  Modern  pictures.  Embroi- 
dery in  silk  (Judith,  Esther,  Flight  into  Egypt,  etc.). 

At  the  end  of  the  right  wing  of  the  cloisters  is  a  door  leading  to  the 
right  through  a  corridor  to  the  "'"Belvedere,  a  hexagonal  room  with  two 
balconies  commanding  exquisite  views  of  the  city,  the  bay,  Mt.  Ve- 
suvius, and  the  fertile  country  as  far  as  Nola  and  the  Apennines.  It  is 
less  extensive  than  that  from  the  walls  of  Castel  S.  Elmo,  but  more 
picturesque. 

Farther  on  in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  lie  the  hotels  men- 
tioned at  p.  19.  Beside  the  Hotel  Bristol  is  a  stopping-place  of  the 
IUone  Amedeo  cable-tramway  (p.  23).  Thence  a  street  descends 
past  the  small  Parco  Margherita,  and  a  little  farther  on  a  private 
road  ascends  to  several  villas  belonging  to  Conte  6.  Orifeo.  Beyond 
the  hotels  Tramontano  and  Britannique ,  to  the  right,  diverges  the 
Via  Tasso  (see  p.  85).  The  first  station  of  the  Cumae  Railway  is 
farther  on  between  two  tunnels  ((PI.  B,  6;  p.  91).  —  The  Corso 
Vitt.  Emanuele  ends  at  the  Piazza  di  Piedigrotta,  see  p.  86. 


VI.  The  Posilipo.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      85 

VI.  Hill  of  Posilipo. 

A  most  interesting  circular  tour  rn:iy  be  made  from  the  Corso  Vittorio 
Emanuele  up  the  Via  Tasso  to  the  top  of  the  hill  of  Posilipo  and  thence 
back  by  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo  (p.  87)  to  the  Villa  Nazionale;  a 
walk  of  3'/2-4  hrs.  or  a  drive  of  l]/2-2  hrs.  [Cabs  should  be  hired  by  the 
hour,  as  shown  under  b  on  p.  22.]     The  view  is  best  in  the  late  afternoon. 

The  hill  which  bounds  Naples  on  the  "W. ,  with  its  villages  and 
numerous  charming  villas,  derives  its  name  of  Posilipo,  or  Posil- 
lipo,  from  Pausflypon  ('sans-souci'),  the  villa  of  the  notorious 
epicure  Vedius  Pollio,  afterwards  the  property  of  Augustus,  which 
was  gradually  -extended  to  the  whole  hill.  The  Posilipo  is  most 
conveniently  visited  either  from  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  or 
from  the  Villa  Nazionale.    We  begin  with  the  former. 

The  *Via  Tasso  (PI.  B,  A,  6),  finished  in  1885,  which  diverges 
from  the  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  beside  the  Hotel  Tramontano  (see 
p.  84)  and  gradually  ascends  the  hill  of  Posilipo,  commands  most 
beautiful  views  of  Naples  and  its  bay,  and  of  Vesuvius.  The  street 
from  the  Corso  to  the  top  of  the  hill  is  barely  l1/^  M.  in  length, 
but  for  the  ascent  about  3/4  hr.  is  required.  The  first  house  on  the 
left  is  the  International  Hospital  (p.  24).  Farther  on  are  some  new 
villas.    At  the  top  is  the  Trattoria  Pallino  (p.  21). 

The  'Strada  Belvedere'  (PI.  A,  6) ,  leading  from  the  Vomero 
(p.  82)  and  running  destitute  of  view,  between  garden- walls ,  is 
joined  by  the  Via  Tasso,  and  then  ascends,  under  the  name  of 
'Strada  Patrizi',  the  long  hill  of  Posilipo  to  the  S.  Here  and  there 
the  garden-walls  cease  and  allow  of  a  beautiful  view  across  the  Bay 
of  Pozzuoli  to  Cape  Miseno  and  Ischia.  A  little  before  we  reach 
the  (l3/4  M.)  village  of  Posilipo ,  the  road  crosses  the  line  of  the 
Posilipo  grottoes  (see  p.  86)  ,  which  pierce  the  hill  465  ft.  lower. 
A  new  quarter  here,  for  which  the  name  Parco  Savoia  has  been  pro- 
posed, is  to  be  connected  with  the  entrance  of  the  new  grotta  by 
means  of  a  lift.  The  road  beyond  Posilipo,  which  commands  beau- 
tiful views,  continues  in  the  same  direction  past  the  village  of 
Strato  on  the  right,  to  (2  M.)  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo,  which 
we  reach  at  its  highest  point,  near  the  Villa  Thalberg  (a  little 
moTe  than  3  M.  from  the  junction  of  the  Via  Tasso).  The  distance 
back  to  Naples  by  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo  is  about  4  M.  (to 
the  Piazza  Umberto,  PL  B,  7,  about  3  M.).  Comp.  p.  87. 


The  Piazza  Umberto  (p.  33),  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Villa  Nazio- 
nale, is  adjoined  on  the  N.W.  by  the  long  Piazza  la  Torbetta  (PI. 
B,  7),  in  which  are  a  tramway-station  (Nos.  1  and  7,  pp.  22,  23)  and 
the  station  for  the  steam-tramway  to  Puorigrotta,  Bagnoli,  and  Poz- 
zuoli (No.  5,  p.  23).  The  Mergellina  (p.  86)  diverges  here  to  the 
S.W.,  while  the  Strada  di  Piedigrotta  leads  straight  W.  to  the  hill 
of  Posilipo. 

The  Strada  di  Piedigrotta  (PI.  B,  A,  7),  along  which  the  above- 
mentioned  steam-tramway  runs ,  brings  us  in  5  min.   to  the  small 


86      Route  3.  NAPLES.  VI.  Hill  of 

Piazza  hi  Pibdigiiotta,  where  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emamiele  diverges 
(p.  84).  At  this  point  rises  the  church  of  S.  Maria  di  Piedigrotta, 
a  building  of  the  13th cent.,  but  much  altered,  and  finally  restored 
in  1850  after  the  return  of  Pius  IX.  from  Gaeta.  It  contains  a  very 
old  picture  of  the  Madonna,  and  an  interesting  Pieta  in  the  Fle- 
mish-Neapolitan style,  the  wings  evidently  executed  under  Sienese 
influence  (2nd  chapel  to  the  right).  The  large  side-chapel,  to  the 
right  of  the  high-altar,  contains  the  tombs  of  the  Filangieri,  and  a 
statue  of  Gaetano  Filangieri,  the  famous  jurist  (see  p.  146).  —  For 
the  festival  of  Piedigrotta,  see  p.  28. 

The  continuation  of  the  Strada  di  Piedegrotta  forms  the  Grotta 
Nuova  di  Posilipo(Pl.  A,  7),  a  tunnel  bored  in  1882-85  through  the 
hill  of  Posilipo  to  replace  the  old  Grotta  (now  closed)  ,  and  giving 
passage  to  the  steam-tramway  and  other  traffic,  which  creates  a 
deafening  noise.  It  is  800  yds.  long  (or  with  the  approaches  1100 
yds.),  40ft.  high,  and  40  ft.  wide,  and  is  always  lighted  with  gas. 
On  a  few  days  in  March  and  October,  the  setting  sun  shines  directly 
through  the  grotto,  producing  a  magic  illumination.  —  At  the  W. 
end  of  the  tunnel  is  the  village  of  Fuorigrotta  (p.  92). 

The  Old  Grotto,  reached  by  the  old  road  diverging  to  the  left  from 
the  approach  to  the  new  Grotto,  but  now  closed,  is  a  masterpiece  of  ancient 
engineering,  probably  constructed  in  the  reign  of  Augustus.  It  is  men- 
tioned by  Seneca  and  Petronius ,  under  Nero ,  as  a  narrow  and  gloomy 
pass.  MediEeval  superstition  attributed  it  to  magic  arts  practised  by  Virgil. 
King  AlphoDSo  I.  (about  1442)  enlarged  the  opening;  a  century  later  Don 
Pedro  de  Toledo  caused  the  road  to  be  paved;  and  it  was  again  im- 
proved by  Charles  III.  (1754). 

Among  the  vineyards  above  the  old  road,  to  the  S.E.,  is  an  ancient  Ro- 
man Columbarium,  popularly  known  as  the  Tomb  of  Virgil  (now  quite 
inaccessible).  The  name  of  the  monument  is  without  satisfactory  historical 
foundation,  but  probability  and  local  tradition  favour  the  assumption  that 
this  was  Virgil's  last  restingplace.  The  poet,  as  he  himself  informs  us, 
here  composed  his  immortal  works ,  the  Georgics  and  the  jEneid,  and  he 
unquestionably  possessed  a  villa  on  the  Posilipo,  and  by  his  express  wish 
was  interred  here  after  his  death  at  Brundisium,  B.C.  19,  on  his  return 
from  Greece.  Petrarch  is  said  to  have  visited  this  spot  accompanied  by  King 
Robert,  and  to  have  planted  a  laurel,  which  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century  fell  a  prey  to  the  knives  of  relic-hunters,  and  has  since  been  re- 
placed. It  is  on  record  that  in  1326  the  tomb  was  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation,  and  contained  a  marble  urn  with  nine  small  pillars,  the  frieze 
of  which  bore  the  well-known  inscription :  — 

Mantua  me  genuit,  Calabri  rapuere,  tenet  nunc 
Parthenope :  cecini  pascua,  rura,  duces. 
Of  all   this    no   trace  now  remains.     The  following  inscription  was  placed 
here  in  1554 :  — 

Qui  cineres  ?  tumuli  hsec  vestigia :  conditur  olim 
Ille  hie  qui  cecinit  pascua,  rura,  duces. 


To  the  S.W.  of  thePiazzaLaTorretta(p.85)  diverges  the  Strada 
di  Mergellina  (PI.  B,  7),  which  5min.  farther  on  crosses  the  Corso 
Vitt.  Emanuele  (pp.  85,  82:  ordinary  cab-fare  to  this  point),  and 
forms  the  entrance  of  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo.  The  last  begins 
about  y2  M.  from  La  Torretta,  before  the  street  turns  a  corner. 


Posilipo.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      87 

A  little  before  this  corner,  we  observe  above  us  to  the  right  the 
small  Chiesa  del  Sannazaro,  or  S.  Maria  del  Parto.  (We  ascend 
the  approach  to  the  church  and  mount  the  steps  to  the  left,  -which 
lead  in  three  flights  to  the  terrace  above  the  houses  Nos.  10-17.) 
The  church  stands  on  the  site  of  a  small  estate  -which  King  Frede- 
rick II.  of  Arragon  presented  in  1496  to  the  poet  Jacopo  Sanna- 
zaro (b.  at  Naples,  1458),  for  whom  he  entertained  the  highest 
regard.  After  his  villa  had  been  destroyed  by  the  French,  the  aged 
poet  caused  the  church  to  be  erected  by  monks  of  the  Servite  order 
in  1529.  It  derives  its  name  from  his  Latin  poem,  'De  partu  Vir- 
ginis'  (Naples,  1526). 

The  church  contains  a  high-altar  and  six  chapels.  In  the  1st  chapel 
to  the  right,  St.  Michael  overcoming  Satan,  by  Leonardo  da  Pistoja.  The 
devil  is  represented  with  the  features  of  a  woman  of  whom  Diomedes 
Carafa,  Bishop  of  Ariano,  was  once  passionately  enamoured.  Behind  the 
high-altar  is  the  monument  of  the  poet  (d.  1530),  executed  by  Fra  Giovanni 
da  Monlorsoli  from  a  design  by  Oirolamo  Santacroce.  At  the  sides  Apollo 
and  Minerva ,  popularly  believed  to  be  David  and  Judith ;  on  a  bas-relief 
between  them  Neptune  and  Pan,  with  fauns,  satyrs,  and  nymphs  singing 
and  playing,  an  allusion  to  Sannazaro's  poem  'Arcadia' ;  above  is  the  sar- 
cophagus with  the  bust  of  the  poet,  which  bears  his  academic  name: 
Aclius  Sincerus.  The  inscription  at  the  base  of  the  monument  by  Bembo 
('Maroni  .  .  .  Musa  proximus  ut  tumulo')  alludes  to  the  poet's  having  imitated 
Virgil.    His  principal  works  are  idyls,  elegies,  and  epigrams  in  Latin. 

The  **Strada  Nuova  di  Fosilipo,  which  at  first  skirts  the  coast, 
and  then  gradually  ascends  round  the  S.  slope  of  the  hill,  was  be- 
gun in  1812  during  the  reign  of  Murat,  and  completed  in  1823. 
It  leads  between  many  beautifully  situated  villas,  commanding 
exquisite  views,  and  should  on  no  account  be  omitted  from  the 
traveller's  programme.  The  tramway  map  be  taken  as  far  as  the 
station  of  Posilipo  (No.  1,  p.  22).     Comp.  Map,  p.  92. 

Immediately  at  the  beginning  of  the  street  rises  the  Villa  Angri. 
On  the  left  ('/2  M.  from  the  Chiesa  del  Sannazaro),  we  next  ob- 
serve on  the  sea  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  Palazzo  di  Donn' 
Anna  (erroneously  called  that  of  the  Regina  Giovanna) ,  begun  in 
the  17th  cent,  by  Fansaga  for  Donna  Anna  Carafa,  wife  of  the 
viceroy  Duke  of  Medina,  but  never  completed.  To  the  left,  on  the 
coast,  just  before  reaching  the  Palazzo  di  Donn'  Anna,  we  pass  the 
Trattoria  dellaSirena,  mentioned  at  p.  21 ;  in  the  Palazzo  itself  are 
two  other  trattorie,  and  just  beyond  it  is  the  Trattoria  dello  Scoglio 
di  Frisio.  In  front  of  the  adjacent  Marine  Hospital,  a  curious  group 
of  statuary  (St.  Francis,  Dante,  Columbus,  and  Giotto)  was  erected 
in  1883. 

Boats  for  returning  are  generally  to  be  found  below  the  restaurants : 
to  the  Villa  iy2,  to  the  town  2-3  fr. ;  Cab  from  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito 
to  the  Frisio  1  fr.  (bargain  necessary).  The  tramway-cars  mentioned  at 
p.  22  also   pass   the  Villa. 

The  road  leaves  the  sea  and  ascends  in  windings  round  the  spur 
of  the  hill.  To  the  left  the  Villa  Cottrau,  which  stretches  from  the 
road  to  the  sea,  and  the  Villa  Rendell,  in  which  Garibaldi  (d.  1882), 
spent  his  last  winter  (tablet  at  the  entrance).    Also  other  villas. 


88     Route  3.  NAPLES.  VI.  Posilipo. 

About  II/4  M.  from  the  Frisio ,  beyond  a  church  on  the  right  with 
a  relief  of  the  Madonna  over  its  portal,  a  road  diverges  to  the  left, 
descending  past  the  Villa  De  la  Hante  to  the  Capo  di  Posilipo. 
Farther  on,  on  the  hill  to  the  right,  is  the  colossal  Mausoleum  of 
Baron  Schilizzi,  in  the  Egyptian  style.  The  small  church  of  S. 
Maria  del  Faro ,  in  the  vicinity,  occupies  the  site  of  an  old  lighthouse. 
We  here  command  a  beautiful  view  towards  Naples. 

The  main  road  ascends  for  V2  M.  more.  At  the  top  of  the  hill, 
near  the  Villas  Thalberg  and  Sanssouci,  it  is  joined  by  the  road 
described  at  p.  85.  —  [A  footpath  to  the  left  leads  to  (iy2  M.)  the 
fisher-hamlet  of  Marechiaro ,  where  there  is  a  favourite  trattoria. 
A  few  fragments  here  are  said  to  belong  to  the  villa  of  VediusPollio 
(see  p.  85). J  —  The  road  then  passes  through  a  deep  cutting  to  a 
(V4  M.)  projecting  round  platform  which  commands  a  magnificent 
*View  towards  Bagnoli,  Camaldoli,  Pozzuoli,  Eaja,  and  Ischia. 

The  road  now  descends  on  the  "W.  side  of  the  Posilipo,  com- 
manding a  fine  view  the  whole  way.  On  the  left,  1/i  M.  below  the 
round  platform,  is  the  entrance  to  the  so-called  Grotto  op  Sejanus, 
a  passage  hewn  through  the  rock  of  the  Posilipo,  about  990  yds.  in 
length ,  resembling  the  old  Grotta  di  Posilipo  (fee  1  fr. ;  the  in- 
spection occupies  about  */2  nr-). 

This  is  the  tunnel  whose  construction  is  ascribed  by  Strabo  to 
U.  Cocceius  Nevva  (B.  C.  37),  almost  simultaneously  with  that  of  the 
Julian  harbour  on  the  Lucrine  lake  by  M.  Agrippa.  It  is  therefore  a 
mistake  to  associate  it  with  the  name  of  Sejanus,  as  it  is  of  much  earlier 
origin.  An  inscription  records  that  the  tunnel  was  repaired  by  the  Emp. 
Honorius  about  the  year  400.  At  the  E.  end  of  this  passage,  especially 
near  the  rocky  promontory  of  La  Gajola,  the  most  beautiful  views  are 
obtained  of  Nisida,  Procida,  Ischia,  Capri,  and  the  bay  of  Naples. 

The  custodian  conducts  the  visitor  from  the  grotto  to  a  vineyard  in 
the  vicinity  (fee  30-50  a),  whence  a  magnificent  view  is  enjoyed  (from  the 
top  of  the  hill  on  the  right,  to  which  visitors  should  request  to  be  con- 
ducted). Here  also  some  of  the  scattered  fragments  of  the  Pausilypon, 
or  villa  of  Vedins  Pollio  (p.  85),  are  visible,  extending  from  the  slope 
of  the  hill  down  to  the  sea,  and  overgrown  with  myrtles,  erica,  and 
broom.  —  In  the  adjoining  property,  visible  through  the  hedge,  we 
observe  the  Scuola,  or  properly  Scoglio  (rock)  di  Virgilio,  perhaps  once  a 
temple  of  Fortune,  or  of  Venus  Euploea ,  to  whom  mariners  sacrificed 
after  a  prosperous  voyage.  —  The  fish-ponds,  in  which  the  cruel  Vedius 
was  in  the  habit  of  feeding  large  lampreys  with  the  flesh  of  his  slaves,  lay 
nearer  the  town.  —  A  small  Theatre  is  also  seen,  which  belonged  to  a 
villa  of  Lucullus,  with  seventeen  rows  of  seats  hewn  in  the  rock.  Besides 
these  are  numerous  other  relics  of  villas  (comp.  p.  85). 

The  S.W.  spur  of  the  Posilipo  is  called  Capo  Coroglio,  opposite 
which  rises  the  small  rocky  island  of  Nisida,  the  Nesis  of  the  an- 
cients, an  extinct  crater,  which  opens  towards  the  S.  On  the  quay 
is  a  Quarantine  building.  On  the  N.  side  is  a  rock,  connected  with 
the  mainland  by  a  breakwater,  and  bearing  the  Lazzaretto.  The 
building  on  the  height  is  a  bagno  for  criminals. 

The  son  of  Lucullus  possessed  a  villa  on  this  island,  to  which  Brutus 
retired  after  the  murder  of  Csesar  in  the  spring  of  B.  C.  44,  and  where 
he  was  visited  by  Cicero.  He  took  leave  here  of  his  wife  Portia  on  his 
departure  for  Greece,  previous  to  the  battle  ofPhilippi,  the  news  of  which 
caused  her  to  commit  suicide  by  swallowing  burning  coals.     In   the  15th 


Camaldoli.  NAPLES.  3.  Route.      89 

cent.  Queen  Johanna  II.  possessed  a  villa  on  the  island  ofNisida,  which 
was  converted  into  a  fort  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  fleet  of  Louis 
of  Anjou  in  check. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Grotto  of  Sejanus  to  Bagnoli  (p.  93) 
is  about  il/t  M.,  so  that  the  whole  distance  thither  from  the  Villa 
Nazionale  (p.  32)  is  ahout  6  M.  Bagnoli  is  a  station  on  the  railway 
and  the  tramway  to  Pozzuoli  (p.  93). 

Camaldoli. 

An  Excursion  to  Camaldoli  and  back,  including  stay  there,  takes 
4-472  hrs.  by  carriage  (with  one  horse  6,  two-horse  9-10  fr.);  on  foot 
4'/2-5V2  hrs.;  on  donkey-back  a  little  less  (2-272  fr.  and  a  trifling  fee  to  the 
attendant).  The  bridle-path  from  Antignano,  which  walkers  will  find 
pleasant,  cannot  be  mistaken  if  the  following  directions  be  attended  to 
(see  also  Plan,  p.  18,  and  Map,  p.  92).  —  The  early  morning  and  the 
evening  lights  are  the  most  favourable  for  the  views,  particularly  the 
latter.  The  traveller,  however,  should  start  on  the  return-journey  in 
good  time,  as  the  path  is  rough  in  places,  and  it  is  anything  but  pleasant 
to  walk  through  the  beggar-haunted  suburbs  of  Naples  after  dusk.  —  The 
monastery  is  forbidden  ground  for  ladies,  who,  however ,  may  reach  an 
equally  good  point  of  view  a  little  lower  (p.  90).  The  monks  supply 
bread  and  wine  on  request,  but  in  any  case  expect  a  donation  (72  fr.  for 
one  pers.,  1  fr.  for  a  party). 

The  Carriage  Road  to  Camaldoli  begins  at  Cangiani  (PI.  A, 
1,  2;  comp.  also  the  Map  at  p.  92),  the  N.W.  gate  of  the  customs 
wall  ('Muro  Fiuanziere'  or  'Cinta  daziaria')  that  describes  a  wide 
circle  round  Naples.  This  point  is  reached  from  the  Villa  Nazionale 
■via  the  Grotta  di  Posilipo  and  Fuorigrotta  (p.  92)  and  thence  by  the 
gradually  ascending  road  outside  the  customs  wall  (comp.  PI.  A,  5; 
carr.  in  l-l1/^  hr.)  ;  or  (somewhat  shorter)  from  the  Corso  Vitt. 
Emanuele  up  the  Via  Tasso,  then  by  the  Strada  di  Belvedere  via 
Antignano  and  Archetiello  (see  below),  and  finally  by  the  road  out- 
side the  wall.  In  about  1/o  hr.  from  the  Cangiani  gate,  carriages 
reach  Nazaret,  a  group  of  houses  to  the  N.  of  Camaldoli.  Here  we 
alight  (guide  unnecessary),  pass  through  the  archway  with  a  tablet 
bearing  the  name  of  the  place  (beside  the  Trattoria  Fracchiacconi), 
turn  to  the  left  a  little  farther  on,  follow  the  cart-road  along  the 
slope  ofthehill,passthroughahollowway,  and  then  gradually  ascend. 
Bearing  to  the  right  we  reach  the  N.  corner  of  the  wall  of  the 
monastery-garden  in  l/4  hr.,  and  proceeding  to  the  right,  immediately 
afterwards  the  entrance. 

Pedestrians,  after  taking  the  cable-tramway  to  the  Bione  Vomero, 
traverse  first  this  new  quarter  and  then  the  village  of  Antignano  (PL 
C,  B,  4),  and  soon  reach  V Archetiello  (PI.  B,  4;  so  called  from  a 
former  gate),  where  there  is  an  office  of  the  Dazio  Consumo ,  or 
municipal  customs  on  comestibles.  About  200  paces  farther  on, 
we  take  the  bridle  -  path  diverging  to  the  left  a  little  on  this  side 
of  the  'Villa  Curcio:,  and  passing  a  group  of  houses.  The  path  then 
immediately  passes  under  a  viaduct  and  enters  a  hollow  (to  which 
point  our  Plan  of  Naples  extends  :  A,  4,  3).  The  path  runs  between 


90      Route  3.  NAPLES.  Camaldoli. 

bushes  and  pines.  (The  path  diverging  to  the  left  beneath  an 
archway,  i/4  M.  farther,  must  not  be  followed.)  After  20  min., 
beyond  an  archway  through  which  we  pass,  the  path  turns  by  two 
semi-detached  houses  a  little  to  the  left  to  the  (4  min.  J  farm -build- 
ings of  Camaldolilli,  and  passes  through  the  wooden  gate,  imme- 
diately beyond  which  it  ascends  to  the  right  at  a  sharp  angle,  in 
the  direction  of  the  yellow  Trattoria  di  Campagna,  affording  a  fine 
view  of  S.  Elmo,  Naples,  Vesuvius,  and  the  bay.  After  7  min., 
at  the  point  where  the  path  descends  slightly,  a  path  diverges  to 
the  right  to  Nazaret,  while  our  route  descends  to  the  left  and 
skirts  a  gorge,  through  which  is  obtained  a  fine  view  of  Capri.  In 
3  min.  more,  at  a  grotto-like  hollow  in  the  rocks  (on  the  right),  we 
pass  a  path  turning  sharply  to  the  left,  and  in  7  min.  reach  a 
point  where  another  path  diverges  to  the  right  to  Nazaret  and  a 
forest-path  leads  to  the  left,  while  the  main  path  to  Camaldoli  runs 
in  a  straight  direction,  soon  ascending  rapidly.  Where  the  road 
divides,  5  min.  farther,  we  keep  straight  on,  and  in  7  min.  more 
we  turn  to  the  right  to  a  closed  gate,  on  passing  through  which 
riders  have  to  pay  20  c.  and  walkers  15  c.  each.  The  path  then 
skirts  the  wall  of  the  monastery-garden,  rounds  the  N.W.  corner, 
where  it  is  joined  by  the  path  from  Pianura  via  Nazaret  (p.  89), 
and  where  the  path  to  the  point  of  view  outside  the  monastery  (see 
below)  diverges.  We  reach  the  entrance  to  the  monastery  in  5  min. 
more.    Visitors  ring  at  the  gate. 

**Camaldoli,  a  monastery  of  the  Camaldulensian  order  found- 
ed in  1585,  was  suppressed  by  the  Italian  government  iu  1863, 
but  in  1885  passed  into  private  hands  and  is  still  inhabited  by  ten 
monks.  It  stands  on  the  E.  summit  of  an  amphitheatre  of  hills 
which  enclose  the  Phlegraean  plain  on  the  N.,  being  the  highest 
point  near  Naples  (1475  ft  ),  and  commands  one  of  the  most  magni- 
ficent views  in  Italy.  The  monastery  and  church  contain  nothing 
worth  seeing,  and  we  therefore  proceed  at  once  to  the  garden.  The 
best  point  of  view  is  straight  before  us.  The  view  embraces  the 
bays  of  Naples,  Pozzuoli,  and  Gaeta,  the  widely  extended  capital 
(of  which  a  great  part  is  concealed  by  S.  Elmo)  with  its  environs, 
the  Agnano  valley,  the  craters  of  Solfatara  and  Astroni,  the  pro- 
montories of  Posilipo  and  Misenum,  the  islands  of  Nisida,  Procida, 
andlschia,  and  the  districts  of  Baiae,  Cumse,  andLiternum.  Towards 
the  S.  the  view  is  bounded  by  Capri  and  the  Punta  della  Campa- 
nella.  The  small  towns  of  Massa,  Sorrento,  and  Castellammare  are 
visible;  also  Monte  Sant' Angelo,  the  smoking  cone  of  Vesuvius, 
and  the  luxuriant  plain  at  its  base.  To  the  W.  stretches  the  open 
sea,  with  the  islands  of  Ponza,  Ventotene,  S.  Stefano,  and  Isola 
delle  Botte. 

Parties  which  include  ladies  (p.  89),  may  reach  a  scarcely  in- 
ferior point  of  view,  by  striking  off  by  the  path  descending  to  the 
right,   between  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  monastery-wall  and  the  en- 


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PHLEGR/E AN  PLAIN.  4.  Route.      91 

trance  (see  p.  90),  and  then  proceeding  along  the  slope  beneath 
the  wall  to  a  (8  min.)  gate  (marked  lVcduta  Pagliana'~),  for  open- 
ing which  a  fee  of  25  c.  for  each  person  is  demanded. 

At  the  S.  base  of  Camaldoli  lies  the  village  of  Soccavo,  to  which  a 
steep  and  rough  path  descends  in  3/4  hr.  from  the  Veduta  Pagliana,  shortly 
before  the  25  c.  gate  is  reached. 

4.  Pozzuoli,  Baise,  Misenum,  and  Cumse. 

The  Phlegraean  Plain,  a  district  to  the  W.  of  Naples,  has  from  time 
immemorial  been  a  scene  of  tremendous  volcanic  activity,  and  as  lately  as 
the  16th  cent,  has  undergone  vast  changes ,  of  which  the  traveller  will 
observe  traces  at  every  step.  This  tract  is,  however,  scarcely  less  interesting 
in  an  historical  than  in  a  physical  point  of  view.  It  was  here  that  Hellenic 
civilisation  first  gained  a  footing  in  Italy,  and  constant  communication  was 
thenceforth  maintained  between  this  portion  of  the  peninsula  and  the  East. 
The  legends  of  Hellenic  tradition  are  most  intimately  associated  with  these 
coasts,  and  the  poems  of  Homer  and  Virgil  will  continue  to  invest  it  with 
a  peculiar  interest  as  long  as  classic  literature  exists.  The  prosperity  of 
this  lovely  coast  has  long  since  departed.  The  grand  creations  of  imperial 
Rome,  the  innumerable  palatial  villas  of  the  Roman  aristocracy,  have  long 
been  converted  into  a  chaotic  heap  of  ruins  by  convulsions  of  nature,  and 
have  left  behind  comparatively  slight  traces  of  their  former  magnificence. 
The  malaria  prevails  in  many  parts  of  the  district;  but  the  inexhaustible 
beauties  of  Italian  nature  are  still  invested  with  the  same  charms  as  they 
possessed  two  thousand  years  ago.  Islands  and  promontories ,  bays  and 
lakes ,  and  singularly  beautiful  indentations  of  the  coast  form  the  chief 
features  of  this  scenery,  which  is  perhaps  without  rival. 

One  day  is  sufficient  to  visit  the  chief  points  of  interest,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Lago  d'Agnano,  which  is  not  specially  attractive,  and  Cu- 
mse,  which  is  interesting  chiefly  to  archaeological  students.  Railway  (Fer- 
rovia  Cumana,  see  below)  in  the  morning  to  (3A  hr.)  Baia,  thence  walk 
or  drive  to  Cape  Misenum  and  On  to  the  Lago  del  Ftifaro  (on  foot  5-6  hrs. 
incl.  halt;  carr.  2'/;:-3  hrs.);  return  by  railway  to  (20-25  min.)  Pozzuoli,  and 
after  visiting  the  Temple  of  Serapis,  the  Amphitheatre,  and  also  the  Sol- 
fatara  (I1/2  hr.),  reach  p/4  hr.)  Naples  by  the  steam -tramway.  Those, 
however,  who  have  more  time  should  devote  two  days  to  exploring  this 
region  as  follows.  Fiest:  Take  the  tramway  to  the  station  of  Agnano  in 
25  min.;  thence  on  foot  to  the  Lago  d'Agnano,  V*  hr.,  where  the  Dog 
Grotto  is  scarcely  worth  a  visit ;  walk  over  the  hill  ("View)  to  the  Sol- 
fatara,  1  hr. ;  halt  there,  20  min. ;  walk  to  Pozzuoli,  and  visit  the  Amphi- 
theatre, Temple  of  Serapis,  Harbour,  and  Cathedral,  I1/2  hr. ;  drive  (car- 
riages generally  to  be  found  in  Pozzuoli)  back  to  Naples  by  the  Strada 
Nuova  di  Posilipo  (which  route  must  be  expressly  stipulated  for ;  4  fr.  and 
fee),  1V4  hr.;  in  all  5-5'/2  hours.  If  we  take  the  railway  on  to  Bagnoli, 
and  return  thence  on  foot  to  Naples,  we  require  I1/2  hr.  more.  —  Second: 
Take  the  railway  to  Baja,  and  proceed  thence  as  above  via,  Miseno  to  the 
Lago  del  Fusaro.  Energetic  travellers  may  add  the  walk  or  drive  to  Cuma, 
returning  via  the  Arco  Felice  (i'/a-2  hr3.) 

Railway.  The  Ferrovia  Cumana  begins  at  Monte  Santo,  to  the  W.  of 
the  Toledo  (p.  40),  and  parses  beneath  the  Castel  S.  Elmo  by  a  tunnel, 
i'/a  M.  long,  to  the  (l3/4  M.)  Corso  Viltorio  Emanuele  station  (p.  84),  which 
is  the  most  convenient  for  the  majority  of  travellers  (omnibus  from  the 
Piazza  S.  Ferdinando,  see  p.  23).  —  Beyond  another  tunnel  is  (2>/2  M.). 
Fuorigrotta  (see  p.  92).  —  The  following  stations  are:  5  M.  Bagnoli  (p.  93), 
71/2  M.  Pozzuoli  (p.  93).  8V2  M.  Arco  Felice  (p.  ill),  10  M.  Lago  Lucrino  (p.  97), 
IOV2  M.  Baja  (p.  99),  It  M.  Cuma-Fusaro  (p.  102),  12'/2  M.  Torregaveta 
(p.  102).  Fares  from  the  Corfo  Viltorio  Emanuele:  tu  Pozzuoli  1  l'r.  10, 
65,  30c,  return  1  fr.  75,  1  f r.  5,  60c. ;  to  Baja,  1  fr.  10,  1  fr.,  56c,  return 
2  fr.  75,  1  fr.  60,  1  fr.;  to  Cuma-Fusaro  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  10,  60c,  return 
2  fr.  90,  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  5  c. 


92      Route  i.  LAGO  D'AGNANO.  Environs 

Steam  Tramway  (Tram  a  Vapore)  from  La  Torrelta  at  Piedigrotta 
(PI.  B,  7).  ihe  terminus  of  the  tramway-line  No.  1  (p.  22),  to  Pozzuoli  in 
3/4  hr.,  almost  every  li/2  hr.  from  5.30  a.m.  (fares  65  and  50  c).  The 
intermediate  stations  are  Fuorigrotta  (see  below);  Pilastri;  Agnano  (see 
below);  Bagnoli  (p.  93);  La  Pietra,  and  Subveni  Homini. 

Carnages.  A  carriage  with  two  horses  for  the  day  costs  20-25  fr., 
with  one  horse  10-12  fr. ;  a  distinct  bargain  shonld  be  made  beforehand. 
—  Cab-tariff  to  Bagnoli  and  Pozzuoli  (from  the  stand  in  the  Strada  di 
Piedigrotta)  comp.  p.  22. 

Guides.  The  following  directions,  the  map,  and  a  slight  knowledge 
of  the  language  will  enable  the  traveller  to  dispense  with  a  guide.  Those, 
however,  who  desire  to  avoid  the  importunities  of  the  guides  at  Pozzuoli 
and  Baja  may  engage  a  cicerone  at  Naples  for  the  excursion  (6  fr. ;  see 
p.  30).  The  Naples  guides  undertake  the  hiring  of  a  carriage,  the  pay- 
ment of  fees,  etc. ,  thus  relieving  the  traveller  of  all  trouble  (total  cost 
for  two  persons  with  one-horse  carriage  about  20  fr.). 

The  village  of  Fuorigrotta  lies  at  the  exit  from  the  Grotta  di 
Posilipo  (p.  86).  The  steam  -  tramway  halts  in  the  piazza  beside 
the  little  church  of  S.  Vitale,  in  the  vesitibule  of  which  is  buried 
the  poet  Count  Giac.  Leopardi  (b.  at  Recanati  in  1798,  d.  at  Naples 
in  1837).  The  station  of  the  Ferrovia  Cumana  is  1/i  M.  from  the 
piazza  (take  the  Via  Giac.  Leopardi ,  on  the  right  of  the  church, 
and  turn  to  the  right  at  the  railway). 

Bagnoli  is  about  2l/2  M.  from  Fuorigrotta,  beyond  the  interme- 
diate tramway  -  stations  of  Pilastri  and  Agnano.  From  Agnano  a 
broad  road  planted  with  trees  diverges  to  the  dried  up  Lago  dAg- 
nano,  3/4  M.  from  the  tramway. 

The  Lago  d' Agnano,  which  was  drained  in  1870,  is  an  old  crater  of 
irregular  form,  21/t  31.  in  circumference.  On  the  S.  bank,  immediately 
to  the  right  of  the  point  where  the  road  reaches  it ,  are  the  old  Stufe  di 
San  Germane,  or  chambers  in  which  the  hot  sulphureous  fumes  rising 
from  the  ground  here  are  collected  for  the  use  of  sick  persons  (adm.  1  fr. 
each  person).  A  few  paces  farther  on  is  the  famous  Grolta  del  Cane,  or 
Bog  Grotto.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  ground  and  sides 
are  so  thoroughly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  that  the  fumes  ren- 
der dogs  insensible  in  a  few  seconds,  and  produce  a  feeling  of  languor 
on  human  beings.  Dogs  are  provided  for  the  exhibition  of  this  somewhat 
cruel  experiment,  but  the  curiosity  of  the  traveller  may  be  sufficiently 
gratified  by  observing  that  a  light  is  immediately  extinguished  when 
brought  in  contact  with  the  vapour.  Pliny  (Hist.  Nat.  ii.  93)  mentions 
this  grotto  as :  'spiraeula  et  aerobes  Charonere  mortiferum  spiritum  exha- 
lantes  in  agro  Puteolano'.  (Adm.  1/2  fr-  each  person;  1  fr.  more  is  de- 
manded for  the  experiments  with  the  dog  and  the  light.) 

From  the  Lago  dAgnano  to  Pozzuoli,  I1/4  hr.,  a  pleasant  footpath 
leads  across  the  hills  to  the  W.  By  a  solitary  house,  about  8  min.  from 
the  Dog  Grotto,  a  road  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  above-mentioned 
Astroni  road,  and  skirts  the  N.  base  of  the  Monte  Spina.  After  3  min. 
we  turn  to  the  right,  and  in  10  min.  more  to  the  right  again;  where 
the  road  divides  into  three  (2  min.)  we  turn  to  the  left,  then  immedia- 
tely afterwards  to  the  left  again,  continuing  to  follow  the  main  road.  At 
a  farm-house  (10  min.)  the  road  narrows  to  a  footpath,  which  ascends 
steeply  past  ancient  walls  to  a  (8  min.)  white  building  and  yard,  through 
which  we  pass  by  a  door  on  the  left.  The  Villa  Sarno,  to  the  left,  a  little 
farther  on,  the  tenant  of  which  admits  visitors  and  courteously  provides 
refreshments ,  is  a  decayed  villa  of  the  Prince  Cariati ,  commanding  a 
beautiful  "View  from  the  upper  terrace.  Passing  through  a  narrow  dell, 
the  path  leads  in  8  min.  more  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  where  we  take  the 
road  to  the  right.  Looking  back,  we  obtain  abeautiful  glimpse  of  Nisida 
and  Capri,  and  immediately  after,  by  the  (5  min.)  Capuchin  monastery  of 


G«oy;ra.yh.  AJifrtilt  von  "Wagner  *■  DirVn.Xrip: 


Chilometr  i 


Abbreviazioni :     9r"  Grotttv,  r1?  Fiatta,  Str? Hznerw, 
Sc.  Scotflio.  Sp?  Spiaggia,,  T"  Torre,  r?  TOUl  ,  T?  Vidimus. 

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of  Naples.  POZZUOLI.  4.  Route.      93 

S.  Gennaro  (p.  95),  we  enjoy  a  superb  "Survey  of  Pozzuoli  and  its  bay. 
the  Capo  Miseno,  and  Jschia.  After  about  4  min.  more  in  a  straight  di- 
rection ,  we  may  either  to  the  right  to  the  entrance  of  the  Solfatara  (p. 
95),  or  to  the  left  to  (1/4  hr.)  Pozzuoli. 

The  road  skirting  the  W.  bank  of  the  dried  lake  leads  to  (1  M.)  the 
royal  chasse  or  park  of  Astroni,  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the  vol- 
canic craters  in  this  region,  being  upwards  of3  3L  in  circumference,  and 
densely  overgrown  with  holm-oaks  and  poplars.  On  the  S.  side  it  contains 
a  small  lake,  and  in  the  centre  an  eminence  of  trachytic  lava.  Picturesque, 
but  somewhat  dull  park-scenery.  Driving  is  practicable  only  as  far  as  the 
margin  of  the  crater.  We  then  ascend  the  old  road  to  the  left  to  the 
large  gate,  where  we  show  our  'permesso'  (see  p.  35).  Fee  1/2  fr.  The 
park  is  sometimes  closed  in  spring,  on  account  of  the  breeding-season. 

"When  the  line  approaches  the  coast,  the  island  oiNisida  (p.  88) 
becomes  visible  on  the  left. 

Bagnoli  (Ristor.  Figlio  di  Pietro,  at  the  tramway-station ;  Caffe 
Lombardo,  at  the  railway)  is  a  small  watering-place  with  hot  springs, 
some  of  which  contain  salt  and  carbonic  acid  gas,  others  sulphur  and 
iron.  There  are  several  bath  and  lodging-houses.  Bagnoli  is  much 
frequented  by  Neapolitans  in  July,  August,  and  September.  There 
are  two  railway-stations :  Bagnoli  and  Terme.  From  Bagnoli  by  the 
Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo  to  Naples,  see  pp.  89-87. 

From  Bagnoli  to  Pozzuoli,  2l/%  M.,  the  road  and  railway  skirt 
the  coast.  In  the  lava  hills  (pierced  by  one  long  and  two  short 
railway -tunnels)  which  rise  near  the  sea  are  extensive  quarries 
(petriere),  where  convicts  are  employed.  The  tramway  stops  just 
outside  the  town  at  an  archway  forming  the  entrance;  the  railway 
passes  through  a  tunnel  beneath  the  town  and  halts  on  the  N.  side. 

Pozzuoli.  —  Restaurants,  generally  mediocre  and  dear :  Ristor.  Mi- 
lanese (formerly  Bella  Venezia),  with  E.,  at  the  harbour,  near  the  railway- 
station,  is  perhaps  the  best;  Ristor.  G.  Polisana  (Figlio  di  Pietro),  in  an 
old  convent  close  to  the  sea,  near  the  tramway-station. 

Guides,  Car-drivers,  Donkey-boys,  and  Beggars  assail  the  traveller  per- 
tinaciously the  moment  he  arrives.  The  services  of  the  guides  may  well 
be  dispensed  with.  For  a  walk  through  the  town,  to  the  Amphitheatre,  and 
the  Temple  of  Serapis  1  fr.,  or,  with  the  addition  of  the  Solfatara,  l'/zfr., 
suffices;  donkey  to  the  Solfatara  1  fr.  —  The  guides  and  others  also 
importune  visitors  to  buy  'antiquities',  which  are  manufactured  at  Naples 
and  then  buried  to  give  them  the  requisite  coating  of  rust  or  verdigris. 
Genuine  antiquities  may  be  purchased  of  De  Griscio,  in  the  place  in  front 
of  the  church  of  the  Deipara,  mentioned  at  p.  95. 

Steamboat  to  Procida  and  Casamiceiola,  see  p.  104. 

Those  who  arrive  by  Tramway  should  turn  to  the  right  (comp.  p.  85) 
and  ascend  to  the  Solfatara,  Amphitheatre,  and  Temple  of  Serapis  (l3/4-2  hrs. 
incl.  stay).  The  harbour  may  be  visited  on  returning,  if  time  permit.  — 
Those  who  arrive  by  Railway  (Ferrovia  Cumana)  first  descend  from  the 
station  to  the  high-road,  follow  this  to  the  right  to  (2  min.)  the  lane  on 
the  right,  in  which  is  the  entrance  to  the  Temple  of  Serapis.  Then  ascend 
the  lane  farther,  cross  the  railway,  and  turn  to  the  right  to  the  high-road 
leading  uphill;  thence  either  cross  the  high-road  diagonally  and  after  120 
paces  take  to  the  left  the  paved  'Strada  Mandra',  lending  to  the  place 
in  front  of  the  Deipara  (p.  95)  whence  the  'Via  Anflteatro'  leads  to  the  left  to 
the  Amphitheatre  (10-12  min.  from  the  Temple  of  Serapis);  or  ascend  the 
high-road  (see  above)  to  the  left  as  far  as  the  Ufflzio  Daxiario,  there  turn 
sharp  to  the  right,  and  proceed  to  the  Amphitheatre  (25  min.  from  the 
temple).  From  the  Amphitheatre  proceed  as  indicated  on  p.  95,  pass  to 
the  left   of  the  Deipara,  ascend   to  the  Solfatara  (there  and  back  '/,  hr.) 


94      Route  4.  POZZUOLI.  Environs 

and   descend  to  the  tramway-terminua  at  the  B.  entrance  of  the  town  (in 
all  a  walk  of  2  hrs.). 

Pozzuoli ,  a  quiet  town  with.  16,000  inhab. ,  situated  on  a 
projecting  Mil  and  at  its  base,  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name, 
which  forms  part  of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  was  founded  at  an  early 
period  by  the  Greeks  and  named  by  them  Dicaearchia.  It  was 
subdued  by  the  Romans  in  the  Samnite  wars,  repeatedly  colo- 
nised by  them,  and  called  by  them  Puteoli.  It  afterwards  be- 
came the  most  important  commercial  city  in  Italy,  and  the  prin- 
cipal depot  for  the  traffic  with  Egypt  and  the  East,  whence 
Oriental  forms  of  worship  were  introduced  here  at  an  early  pe- 
riod. St.  Paul  on  his  journey  to  Rome  spent  seven  days  here  (Acts, 
xxviii).  Several  ruins,  which  lie  close  to  the  modern  town,  bear 
witness  of  its  ancient  importance.  The  town  itself  presents  few 
attractions.  —  The  volcanic  puzzolana  earth  found  in  the  whole 
of  this  district,  from  which  an  almost  indestructible  cement  is 
manufactured,  derives  its  name  from  Pozzuoli. 

From  the  tramway-terminus  a  broad  paved  road  ascends  to  the 
right  in  windings,  leading  to  the  upper  town  (see  below).  — Enter- 
ing by  the  gate  straight  in  front  of  us  we  soon  reach  the  principal 
Piazza,  in  which  rise  the  statue  of  a  senator,  bearing  the  name  of 
Q.  Flav.  Mavortius  Lollianus,  discovered  in  1704  (head  originally 
not  belonging  to  this  statue,  but  also  ancient),  and  that  of  Bishop 
Leon  y  Cardenas,  viceroy  of  Sicily  under  Philip  III.  —  Hence  a 
street  to  the  left  runs  to  the  harbour,  while  the  Via  Cavour  to  the 
right  leads  to  a  large  square,  stretching  from  the  harbour  to  the 
station  of  the  Ferrovia  Cumana. 

At  the  harbour  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  pier,  called  by 
Seneca  Pilae,  by  Suetonius  Moles  Puteolanae,  and  now  Ponte  di 
Caligola.  Of  twenty-five  buttresses,  which  supported  twenty-four 
arches,  sixteen  are  left,  three  being  under  water.  They  are 
constructed  of  bricks  and  puzzolana  earth,  and  bear  an  in- 
scription recording  that  the  pier  was  restored  by  Antoninus  Pius. 
A  common ,  but  erroneous  impression  is ,  that  they  were  con- 
nected with  the  bridge -of- boats  which  Caligula  threw  across 
the  bay  of  Baiee,  in  order  that,  clad  in  the  armour  of  Alexander 
the  Great ,  he  might  there  celebrate  his  insane  triumph  over 
the  Parthians.  —  A  few  yards  on  the  other  (N.)  side  of  the  square 
(see  above)  we  reach  a  lane  (with  a  sign  marked  'Bagni  di  Sera- 
pide')  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  high-road  and  leading  to  the 
Temple  of  Serapis  (p.  96). 

Most  travellers  will ,  however,  follow  the  paved  road  leading  to 
the  right  (see  above)  from  the  tramway-terminus.  If  at  the  first  bend 
in  this  road  we  turn  to  the  left,  we  soon  reach  the  Piazza  del  Muni- 
cipio  ,  whence  we  may  follow  the  Via  del  Duomo  and  its  second 
side-street  to  the  left  to  the  cathedral  of  8.  Proculo.  This  occupies 
the  site  of  a  temple  of  Augustus,   erected  by  L.  Calpurnius,  six 


of  Naples.  POZZUOLI.  4.  Route.     95 

Corinthian  columns  from  which  are  still  outside.  The  church  con- 
tains relics  of  St.  Proculus  and  the  monuments  of  the  Duke  of 
Montpensier,  Governor  of  Naples  under  Charles  VIII.  of  France, 
and  of  Giovanni  Battista  Pergolese  of  Jesi,  the  talented  composer 
of  the  original  Stabat  Mater,  who  died  at  Pozzuoli  in  1736  at  the 
age  of  26. 

We  return  to  the  broad  road  outside  the  town  and  ascend  it 
farther,  passing  the  yellow  barracks  of  the  Guardie  di  Finanze  (Via 
Carlo  Rosini)  and  the  reddish  building  of  the  former  Hotel  Grande 
Bretagne.  After  about  12  min.  we  reach  an  oblong,  the  E.  (right) 
end  of  whichis  bounded  by  the  Orfanotrofio  Carlo  Rosini,  fororphan- 
girls,  and  the  little  church  Deiparce  Consolatrici  Sacrum.  The  road 
to  the  left  leads  to  the  Amphitheatre  (see  below),  that  straight  on, 
past  the  facade  of  the  church,  to  the  Solfatara.  The  latter  ascends 
through  vineyards.  The  ascent  to  the  entrance  of  the  Solfatara  on 
foot  takes  20  min.  (adm.  V2  *'r-  each  person) ;  8  min.  more  to  the 
actual  spot. 

The  Solfatara  is  the  crater  of  a  half-extinct  volcano,  an  oblong 
space  enclosed  by  hills  of  pumice-stone ,  from  numerous  fissures 
('fumaroli')  in  which  vapours  and  sulphureous  gases  ascend.  The 
ground  is  hollow  in  every  direction.  The  powder  found  at  the  top, 
which  the  guides  erroneously  call  saltpetre,  is  really  ceramohalite, 
or  sulphuretted  potter's  clay.  The  ancients  (Strabo)  called  this  crater 
Forum  Vulcani,  and  believed  it  to  be  connected  with  the  crater  of 
Ischia.  The  only  recorded  eruption  from  it,  attended  with  an  emis- 
sion of  lava,  took  place  in  1198.  —  Above  the  Solfatara,  towards 
the  E. ,  rise  the  Colles  Leucogaei,  the  white  hills  whose  light-coloured 
dust  was  so  highly  prized  by  the  ancients  for  colouring  groats  and 
other  kinds  of  grain.  Several  small  brooks  containing  alum  have  their 
source  here,  called  I  Pisciarelli,  the  Fontes  Leucogaei  of  the  ancients 
(Plin.  Nat.  Hist.  xxxi.  2),  which  fall  steaming  into  a  ravine  be- 
tween the  Solfatara  and  the  Lago  dJAgnano. 

Shortly  before  our  route  reaches  the  Solfatara  It  is  .ioined  on  the 
right  by  a  road  coming  from  the  Lago  d'Agnano  (p.  92).  The  'View  on 
the  latter  road  is  so  fine  that  the  traveller  should  not  omit  to  ascend  as 
far  as  (6  min.)  the  Capuchin  monastery  of  S.  G-ennaro,  erected  in  1580  on 
the  spot  where  St.  Jarmarius  is  said  to  have  been  beheaded  in  305,  and 
(»/2  M.  farther)  the  Villa  Sarno  (p.  92). 

"We  now  return  to  the  open  space  before  the  D  eipara  and  traversing 
itlengthwise  to  the  N.W.,  passingthe  antiquarian  depot  of  De  Criscio, 
enter  the  Via  Anflteatro,  which  brings  us  in  less  than  3  min.  to  the 
entrance  of  the  Amphitheatre,  the  most  interesting  and  perfect  of 
all  the  ruins  of  Pozzuoli  (admission  1  fr. ;  Sundays  gratis). 

The  *Araphitheatre  rests  on  three  series  of  arches,  which  were 
surrounded  by  an  external  court ;  the  two  principal  entrances  were 
adorned  with  triple  colonnades.  The  interior  contained  four  tiers  of 
seats  in  several  compartments  (cunei),  connected  by  flights  of  steps. 
The  imperial  seat  was  distinguished  by  Corinthian  columns  of  black 


96     Boute  4.  POZZUOLI. 


Environs 


marble.  The  arena,  369  ft.  long,  and  216  ft.  broad,  was  excavated 
in  1838 ,  when  a  number  of  subterranean  passages  and  receptacles 
for  the  wild  beasts,  etc.,  98  paces  long  and  53  broad,  were  dis- 
covered. By  means  of  a  water  conduit  (to  the  left  of  the  principal 
entrance)  the  arena  could  be  laid  under  water  when  naval  combats 
were  to  be  represented;  the  outlet  is  in  the  principal  passage.  The 
entrances  for  the  gladiators,  and  the  air-holes  and  outlets  of  the 
dens  of  the  animals  are  easily  recognised.  The  celebrated  gladiator- 
combats  under  Nero,  when  he  received  Tiridates,  King  of  Armenia, 
as  a  guest  at  his  court,  took  place  here,  and  even  the  emperor  him- 
self entered  the  arena.  Under  Diocletian  St.  Januarius  and  his 
companions  were  thrown  to  the  wild  beasts  here  in  vain,  as  an  in- 
scription on  the  chapel  dedicated  to  him  records,  before  they  were 
put  to  death  near  the  Solfatara. 

On  quitting  the  Amphitheatre  we  may  either  return  to  the  space 
before  the  Deipara,  thence  descend  the  pavedVia  Mandra  immediately 
to  the  right,  at  the  bottom  turn  to  the  right,  and  cross  the  high- 
road diagonally  (see  p.  97) ;  —  or  from  the  Amphitheatre  we  may 
turn  at  once  to  the  right  and  proceed,  with  a  fine  view  of  the  Bay 
of  Pozzuoli,  to  (10  min.)  the  Ufflzio  Daziario,  there  turn  sharply 
to  the  left  and  descend  the  high-road  to  (8  min.)  the  junction  of 
the  above-mentioned  Via  Mandra.  Hence  we  proceed  to  the  right, 
and  after  4  min.  cross  the  railway  and  turn  to  the  left  into  the  Se- 
rapis  lane,  leading,  between  garden-walls,  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Temple  of  Serapis  (on  the  left  side). 

The  so-called  Temple  of  Serapis,  or  Serapeum,  which,  how- 
ever, is  more  probably  an  ancient  market-hall  (macellum,  as  at 
Pompeii;  see  p.  127),  consisted  of  a  square  court,  enclosed  by 
forty-eight  massive  marble  and  granite  columns,  and  with  thirty- 
two  small  chambers  adjoining.  The  portico  rested  on  six  Corinthian 
columns  (three  of  which  remain),  once  bearing  a  rich  frieze.  In 
the  centre  of  the  court  stood  a  circular  temple ,  surrounded  by 
a  peristyle  of  sixteen  Corinthian  pillars  of  African  marble,  which 
have  been  transferred  to  the  theatre  of  the  palace  at  Caserta 
(p.  9),  the  bases  alone  being  left.  The  interior  was  approached 
by  four  flights  of  steps.  The  statues  of  Serapis,  now  in  the  mu- 
seum at  Naples,  were  found  in  the  neighbourhood.  Two  inscrip- 
tions found  here  mention  the  restoration  of  the  temple  by  Mar- 
cus Aurelius  and  Septimius  Severus.  The  ruin  was  excavated  in 
1750,  but  its  lower  parts,  which  are  under  water ,  were  filled  up 
again  in  order  to  prevent  unhealthy  exhalations.  —  Interesting 
observations  may  be  made  here  with  respect  to  the  changes  which 
have  taken  place  in  the  level  of  the  sea  at  different  periods.  That 
it  had  risen  considerably,  even  in  ancient  times,  is  proved  by  the  dis- 
covery of  mosaics  6  ft.  below  the  present  level  of  the  pavement  and 
by  the  different  water-marks.  Subsequently  the  lower  part  of  the 
edifice  was  buried  to  a  depth  of  13  ft.,   probably  by  an  eruption  of 


of  Naples.  LACUS  LTJCR1NTJS.  4.  Route.     97 

theSolfatara.  Thenonce  more  the  entire  region  sank  for  centuries  be- 
neath the  level  of  the  sea.  During  this  period  a  species  of  shell- 
fish (lithodomus,  or  modiola  lithophaga,  still  found  in  this  vicinity") 
attacked  the  exposed  middle  portions  of  the  columns,  while  the 
bases  covered  with  rubbish  remained  intact.  These  borings  extend 
to  a  height  of  10  ft.,  so  that  at  one  period  the  sea -level  must  have 
been  at  least  20  ft.  higher  than  at  present.  This  great  change  was 
caused  by  the  convulsion  connected  with  the  upheaval  of  Monte 
Nuovo  (see  below)  in  1538.  Since  the  last  century  the  ground 
has  again  been  gradually  sinking. 

The  lower  end  of  the  Serapis  lane  debouches  on  the  high-road, 
which  brings  us  (on  the  left)  in  3  min.  to  the  piazza  in  front  of  the 
station  of  the  Ferrovia  Cumana. 

The  Temple  of  Neptune  is  a  name  applied  to  another  ruin,  to  the  W 
of  the  Serapeum ,  consisting  of  a  few  pillars  rising  from  the  sea.  In  the 
vicinity,  also  under  water,  is  situated  the  so-called  Temple  of  the  Nymphs, 
from  which  a  considerable  number  of  columns  and  sculptures  have  been 
recovered.  Farther  on,  a  few  fragments  mark  the  site  of  Cicero's  Puteolaneum, 
a  villa  delightfully  situated  on  the  coast,  which  the  orator  in  imitation  of 
Plato  called  his  Academy,  and  where  he  composed  his  'Academica'  and 
'De  Fato\  Hadrian  (d.  atBaiae,  A.D.  138)  was  temporarily  interred  within 
its  precincts ,   and  Antoninus   Pius   erected   a  temple  on  the  spot. 

Above  the  amphitheatre  was  situated  a  theatre ,  the  ruins  of  which 
have  not  yet  been  excavated.  Other  ruins  in  the  vicinity ,  externally  of 
circular  construction,  are  believed  to  have  been  either  Baths  or  a  Temple 
of  Diana.  The  Villa  Lusciano  contains  the  so-called  Labyrinth ,  really  a 
piscina,  or  ancient  reservoir.  The  Piscina  Grande ,  with  vaulted  ceiling, 
resting  on  three  rows  of  ten  columns  each,  still  serves  as  a  reservoir,  and 
was  doubtless  once  connected  with  the  ancient  aqueduct  from  the  Pausi- 
lypon  to  Misenum.  —  Roman  Tombs  have  been  discovered  in  great  num- 
bers on  the  old  roads ,  the  Via  Puleolana  to  Naples ,  and  the  Via  Cu- 
mana to  Cumae,  but  most  are  now  mere  shapeless  ruins.  Others  in  better 
preservation  have  been  found  on  the  Via  Gampana,  leading  to  Capua, 
which  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  road  leading  to  the  N.W.  beyond 
the  amphitheatre  (comp.  the  Map,  p.  93). 

The  railway  to  Cumae  traverses  a  short  tunnel  beyond  Pozzuoli 
and  then  passes  the  Cantiere  Armstrong ,  a  branch  of  the  well- 
known  cannon  and  armour-plate  works  of  Armstrong  &  Co.  at 
Newcastle  ,  actively  supported  by  the  Italian  government.  Fine 
retrospect  of  Pozzuoli  on  the  left.  —  l'/4  M.  (from  Pozzuoli)  Arco 
Felice,  a  station  at  the  junction  of  roads  to  the  Arco  Felice  (l3/4  M. ; 
p.  103)  and  to  Cumae  (p.  102).  The  railway  skirts  the  base  of  the 
Monte  Nuovo  (455  ft.),  a  volcanic  hill  of  comparatively  recent  origin, 
having  been  upheaved  on  30th  Sept.,  1538,  after  a  violent  earth- 
quake. Its  form  is  that  of  an  obtuse  cone,  in  the  centre  of  which 
is  a  very  deep  extinct  crater,  enclosed  by  masses  of  pumice-stone, 
trachyte,  and  tufa.  The  ascent  is  interesting,  and  not  less  so  the 
toilsome  descent  into  the  crater. 

l3/4  M.  Station  of  hucrino  (Hotel  de  Russie,  de'j.  2i/2  fr.), 
at  the  E.  end  of  the  small  Lacus  Lucrinus,  which  is  separated  from 
the  sea  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land.  An  ancient  embankment  here, 
still  to  be  traced  under  the  water,  was  called  the   Via  Hercitlea, 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.    11th  Edit.  7 


98      Route  4.  LACUS  AVERNUS.  Environs 

from  the  tradition  that  the  hero  traversed  it  when  driving  the  hulls 
of  Oeryon  across  the  swamps.  The  lake  was  famed  for  its  oysters 
in  ancient  times,  and  the  oyster-culture  flourishes  again,  as  of  yore. 
The  lake  yields  also  the  spigola,  a  fish  well-known  to  the  Romans. 

About  i/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Lacus  Lucrinus ,  a  little  in- 
land, bounded  on  three  sides  by  hills  clothed  with  chestnuts, 
vineyards,  and  orange-gardens,  lies  the  celebrated  *Lacus  Avernus, 
which  was  regarded  by  the  ancients  as  the  entrance  to  the  infernal 
regions  on  account  of  its  sombre  situation  and  environs.  Its 
banks  are  now  bordered  with  blocks  of  lava.  Circumference 
nearly  2  M. ;  depth  210  ft.  ;  height  above  the  sea-level  3y2  ft. 
Tradition  affirmed  that  no  bird  could  fly  across  it  and  live,  owing 
to  its  poisonous  exhalations,  and  that  the  neighbouring  ravines 
were  the  abode  of  the  dismal,  sunless  Cimmerii,  mentioned  by 
Homer  (Odyss.  xi).  Virgil,  too,  represents  this  as  the  scene  of 
the  descent  of  iEneas,  conducted  by  the  Sibyl,  to  the  infernal 
regions  (^En.  vi.  237).  Augustus,  by  the  construction  of  a  naval 
harbour  (Portus  Julius),  the  building  of  which  was  entrusted  to 
Agrippa,  and  by  connecting  this  lake  with  the  Lacus  Lucrinus, 
was  the  first  to  dispel  these  gloomy  legends.  Horace  and  Virgil 
accordingly  extol  the  harbour  as  a  prodigy .  —  The  canals  and 
wharves  of  Agrippa  were  still  in  existence  in  1538,  but  the 
upheaval  of  the  Monte  Nuovo  destroyed  every  vestige  of  them, 
half  filled  the  Lucrine  Lake,  and  entirely  altered  the  configuration  of 
the  neighbourhood. 

On  the  S.  Side  of  the  lake  are  observed  grottoes  and  cuttings,  hewn 
in  the  tuffstone  rock,  which  probably  once  belonged  to  the  Portus  Julins. 
One  of  these  caverns,  situated  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  left  of  the  end 
of  the  road  coming  from  the  Lucrine  Lake ,  and  now  called  the  Grotto 
of  the  Sibyl,  or  Grotta  d'Averno,  is  entered  by  a  gateway  of  brick ,  and 
consists  of  a  long,  damp  passage  hewn  in  the  rocks  and  ventilated  by 
vertical  apertures.  Midway  between  the  two  lakes  a  passage  to  the  right 
leads  to  a  small  square  chamber,  the  'Entrance  to  the  Infernal  Regions'. 
Near  it  is  a  chamber  with  mosaic  pavement  and  arrangements  for  a  warm 
bath.  It  contains  lukewarm  water,  1  ft.  in  depth,  which  rises  in  the 
neighbourhood  ,  and  is  styled  by  the  guides  the  'Bath  of  the  Sibyl'.  The 
grotto  is  280  paces  in  length,  and  blackened  with  the  smoke  of  torches. 
—  The  visit  is  on  the  whole  scarcely  worth  the  trouble ,  and  the  de- 
mands of  the  guides  should  be  beaten  down. 

On  the  N.W.  Side  of  the  lake  is  one  end  of  the  Grotta  delta  Pace 
(p.  103).  —  On  the  E.  Side  are  the  interesting  ruins  of  magnificent  Baths, 
sometimes  called  a  Temple  of  Apollo,  Pluto,  or  Mercury. 

The  Railway  runs  by  the  high-road  along  the  strip  of  land  be- 
tween the  Lucrine  Lake  and  the  sea,  and  pierces  the  Punta  dell', 
Epitaffio,  round  which  the  road  runs.  To  the  right,  before  we  enter 
the  tunnel,  lie  the  Bagni  di  Nerone,  a  long,  narrow,  dark  passage 
in  the  rock,  at  the  farther  end  of  which  rise  several  warm  springs, 
the  famed  Thermae  Neronianae  of  antiquity,  and  still  frequented 
by  invalids.  The  entire  mountain-slope  is  covered  with  innumerable 
fragments  of  old  masonry,  passages,  colonnades,  mosaic-pavements, 
etc.     The  hill  is  pierced  by  another  shorter  tunnel,  beyond  which, 


of  Naples.  BAJA.  4.  Route.      99 

to  the  right,  is  the  so-called  Temple  of  Diana,  and  to  the  left,  the 
station  of  Baja,  1/2  M.  from  the  Lacus  Lucrinus  and  3  M.  from 
Pozzuoli.  —  Continuation  of  railway,  see  p.  102. 

Baja.  — Restaurants  (not  suited  fornight-quarters):  Hotel  de la  Rhine, 
near  the  station,  bargaining  advisable  in  spite  of  the  announcement  of 
fixed  charges,  D.  5,  lunch  3'/4,  beefsteak  l'/2  fr. ,  A.  25  c;  Albekgo 
della  Vittokia,  at  the  foot  of  the  castle,  »/i  M.  farther,  to  the  left  of  the 
road,  well  spoken  of,  D.  5,  dej.  3'/2  fr. 

Carriages  (one-horse,  for  3  pers.)  meet  the  trains;  drive  to  Miseno 
and  the  Lago  del  Fusaro,  including  waiting  at  the  Piscina  Mirabilis  and 
at  Cape  Miseno,  which  is  ascended  on  foot,  about  6  fr.  (previous  bargain 
necessary).  —  Walkers  require  5-6  hrs.  for  this  expedition;  guide  unne- 
cessary. 

Boat  to  Pozzuoli  for  3-4  persons  about  2  fr. ;  to  Bacoli  and  Miseno 
the  same ;  there  and  back  3-4  fr. ;  according  to  bargain  in  each  case. 

Baja,  the  ancient  Baia>,  now  regaining  some  importance,  situat- 
ed on  the  bay  of  the  same  name  and  commanding  a  charming  view, 
was  the  most  famous  and  magnificent  watering-place  of  antiquity, 
and  had  attained  the  zenith  of  its  splendour  in  the  age  of  Cicero, 
Augustus,  Nero,  and  Hadrian.  'Nothing  in  the  world  can  be  com- 
pared with  the  lovely  bay  of  Baife',  exclaims  Horace's  wealthy  Ro- 
man (Epist.  i.  85),  who  is  desirous  of  erecting  a  magnificent  villa 
there.  Luxury  and  profligacy,  however,  soon  took  up  their  abode 
at  Baiae,  and  the  desolate  ruins  which  now  alone  encounter  the  eye 
point  the  usual  moral.  With  the  decline  of  the  Roman  empire  the 
glory  of  Baiie  speedily  departed.  In  the  8th  cent,  it  was  devastated 
by  the  Saracens,  and  in  1500  entirely  deserted  by  its  inhabitants 
on  account  of  malaria. 

Of  the  imposing  baths  and  villas  of  the  Romans  ,  the  founda- 
tions of  which  were  often  thrown  far  out  into  the  sea,  nothing  but 
fragments  now  remain.  In  modern  times  these  ruins  are  often 
exalted  into  temples,  or  otherwise  dignified  in  a  manner  for  which 
there  is  not  the  slightest  foundation.  The  principal  remains  consist 
of  three  large  vaults  which  belonged  to  baths. 

We  first  observe  in  a  vineyard  opposite  the  station,  which  affords 
a  sufficiently  good  view  of  it,  a  large  octagonal  building,  with 
a  circular  interior,  a  half -preserved  dome,  and  four  recesses  in  the 
walls ,  and  remains  of  a  water-conduit ,  styled  a  Temple  of  Diana 
(fee  30-50  c). 

Turning  to  the  right  on  quitting  the  station,  about  150  paces 
bring  us  to  the  Hotel  de  la  Reine,  immediately  before  which,  to  the 
right,  is  the  entrance  to  another  vineyard,  containing  a  large  circu- 
lar building,  with  a  vaulted  ceiling,  open  in  the  centre,  and  four 
niches  in  the  walls.  This  is  obviously  a  bath,  but  is  called  a  Temple 
of  Mercury,  or  by  the  peasantry  il  troglio  (trough).  Fine  echo  in  the 
interior  (fee  30-50  c. ;  women  here  offer  to  dance  the  tarantella  for 
the  traveller's  entertainment,  50  c). 

About  100  paces  farther  along  the  high-road  is  situated  an  octagonal 
structure  with  a  vaulted  ceiling,    in  the  interior  circular,   and  25 

7* 


100     Route  4.  BACOLI.  Environs 

paces  iu  diameter ,  with  remains  of  the  ancient  lateral  chambers, 
windows,  and  staircases,  somewhat  resembling  the  Minerva  Medica 
at  Rome,  now  called  the  Temple  of  Venus.  This  is  a  public  passage. 

The  high-road,  bordered  with  a  number  of  modern  villas,  skirts 
the  bay,  and  then  (to  the  left,  the  Hotel  Vittoria),  passing  several 
ancient  columbaria,  ascends  the  hill  occupied  by  the  Castle  of  Baja, 
which  was  erected  in  the  16th  cent,  by  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo.  It  now 
contains  a  small  garrison;  admission  is  granted,  but  is  not  worth 
the  trouble. 

About  2  M.  beyond  Baja  we  reach  the  village  of  Bacoli,  which 
is  believed  (not  with  absolute  certainty)  to  derive  its  name  from 
the  ancient  Villa  Bauli,  and  also  boasts  of  a  number  of  antiquities. 
The  traveller  who  is  pressed  for  time,  however  ,  had  better  confine 
his  attention  to  the  Piscina  Mirabilis  (see  below). 

The  Villa  Bauli  is  celebrated  as  having  been  the  frequent  residence  of 
distinguished  Romans ,  and  it  was  here  that  Nero  planned  the  murder  of 
his  mother  Agrippina,  in  March,  A.D.  59,  a  crime  which  was  afterwards 
perpetrated  at  her  villa  on  the  Lucrine  Lake.  The  tomb  of  Agrippina,  of 
humble  pretensions  as  Tacitus  informs  us  (Ann.  xiv.  9),  was  situated  on 
the  height  by  the  road  to  Misenum,  near  the  villa  of  Caesar,  but  the 
spot  cannot  now  be  exactly  determined.  What  is  commonly  named  the 
Sepolcro  cf  Agrippina,  on  the  coast  below  the  village,  a  semicircular  pass- 
age with  vaulted  ceiling,  reliefs,  and  paintings,  is  really  the  ruins  of  a 
small  theatre.  Extensive  ruins  near  this,  partly  under  water,  are  supposed 
to  belong  to  the  villa  of  the  eminent  orator  Hortensius,  and  may  be  visited 
by  boat.  Even  the  pond  in  which  he  reared  his  favourite  lampreys  is 
said  to  be  visible.  In  this  villa  Nero  is  believed  to  have  sanctioned  the 
proposition  of  his  freedman  Anicetus,  commander  of  the  fleet,  to  drown 
his  mother  Agrippina  by  sinking  her  in  a  ship.  The  attempt,  however, 
failed. 

The  Villa  of  Julius  Caesar,  on  the  height  near  Bauli,  was  afterwards 
the  property  of  Augustus,  and  was  occupied  by  his  sister  Octavia  after  the 
death  of  her  second  husband  M.  Antony;  and.  here  she  lost  her  hopeful 
son,  the  youthful  Marcellus,  whom  Augustus  had  destined  to  be  his  suc- 
cessor. It  is  believed  by  many  that  the  subterranean  chambers,  known  as 
the  Cento  Cameeelle,  or  Carceri  di  Nerone,  or  the  Labyrinth,  belonged  to 
the  basement  story  of  this  villa  (fee  1/2  frO-  They  are  sometimes 
visited  by  torchlight,  but  the  view  from  them  is  the  chief  attraction. 

On  the  hill  to  the  S.  of  Bacoli,  10  min.  from  the  entrance  to 
the  village,  is  situated  the  *Piscina  Mirabilis.  (Guide  unnecessary. 
We  may  either  leave  the  road  by  the  Ufflzio  Daziario  and  follow 
the  long  street  of  the  village  ;  or,  better ,  follow  the  road  to  the 
bifurcation  mentioned  below ,  and  60  paces  beyond  it  ascend  a 
path  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Misenum  road.  On  the  hill  we 
turn  to  the  right.  Custodian,  whose  house  is  on  the  right,  near 
the  Piscina,  '/2  ft. ;  he  sells  vases  and  other  antiquities  found  in 
the  vicinity.)  The  Piscina  is  a  reservoir  at  the  extremity  of  the 
Julian  Aqueduct,  230  ft.  in  length,  85  ft.  in  width,  with  a  vaulted 
ceiling  supported  by  forty-eight  massive  columns,  and  admirably 
preserved.  —  Following  the  top  of  the  hill  in  the  same  direction 
I  S. )  for  5  min.  more,  we  reach  a  cottage  (good  wine),  the  roof  of 
which  commands  a  very  fine  view  ,  though  inferior  to  that  from 
the  Capo  Miseno. 


of  Naples.  CAPO  MISENO.  4.  Route.      101 

Near  Bacoli,  about  '/4  M.  beyond  tlie  Uffizio  Daziario,  the  road 
forks  :  the  branch  to  the  right  leads  to  Miniscola,  that  to  the  left  in 
a  straight  direction  to  Misenum.  Both  of  these  roads  skirt  the  mar- 
gin of  the  shallow  Mare  Morto,  part  of  the  old  harbour  of  Misenum, 
from  which  it  has  only  recently  been  separated  by  the  embankment 
which  bears  the  road.  The  two  basins  are  now  connected  by  a  narrow 
channel  only,  which  is  crossed  by  a  bridge. 

In  the  time  of  Augustus  a  vast  war-harbour  was  constructed  at  Mise- 
num by  Agrippa,  in  connection  with  the  works  at  the  Lacus  Avernus 
and  the  Lacus  Lucrinus,  in  order  to  serve  as  a  receptacle  for  theltoman 
fleet  on  this  coast,  like  Ravenna  in  the  Adriatic.  The  harbour  consisted 
of  three  basins,  two  outer,  one  on  each  side  of  the  promontory  called 
Forno,  and  one  inner,  the  present  Mare  Morto.  The  Punia  di  Peiuiata, 
a  narrow  promontory  which  bounds  the  harbour  of  Misenum  on  the  N., 
was  penetrated  by  a  double  subaqueous  passage  for  the  purpose  of  pre- 
venting the  accumulation  of  sand  at  the  entrance.  A  pier  was  also  con- 
structed on  pillars,  three  of  which  are  still  visible  under  water.  Other 
relics  of  antiquity  abound  in  the  neighbourhood ,  but  it  is  a  difficult 
matter  now  to  ascertain  to  what  they  belonged.  Even  the  situation  of 
the  Town  of  Misenum  is  not  precisely  known ,  although  it  probably  lay 
near  the  modern  village  of  that  name.  Scanty  remnants  of  a  theatre  are 
still  traceable  near  the  small  promontory  11  Forno.  Some  ruins  on  the 
height  above  are  supposed  to  belong  to  the  once  famous  villa  of  Lncullus, 
afterwards  the  property  of  Tiberius,  who  died  here,  and  subsequently 
that  of  Nero.  The  Orotia  Dragonara,  a  long  subterranean  passage  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  promontory,  with  vaulted  roof,  supported  by  twelve 
pillars,  is  variously  conjectured  to  have  been  a  naval  depot  or  a  reser- 
voir for  water. 

Beyond  the  above-mentioned  bridge,  t/4  M.  from  the  bifurcation 
of  the  road,  we  pass  a  white  powder-mill  (smoking  forbidden  here), 
and  soon  reach  (!/2  M.)  the  village  of  Miseno  ,  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  cape,  and  proceed  to  the  church.  (Driving  is  not  allowed 
beyond  the  village.)  The  ascent  (to  the  top  and  back  I-IV4  nr0  's 
fatiguing  for  ladies.  A  boy  may  be  taken  as  guide  ('in  coppa',  to 
the  top).  AVe  follow  the  main  road  to  the  farm,  a  little  before 
which  we  ascend  to  the  right ;  a  steep  and  narrow  path  then  leads 
to  the  summit  through  vineyards. 

The  *Capo  Miseno  is  an  isolated  mass  of  tufa-rock  rising  from 
the  sea,  which  was  formerly  connected  with  the  mainland  only  by 
the  narrow  Spiaggia  di  Miniscola  (p.  102),   extending  towards  the 
W.    Its  remarkable  form  gave  rise  to  the  belief  that  it  was  an  arti- 
ficial tumulus  of  very  ancient  origin.   Thus  Virgil  (JEn.  vi.  232)  de- 
scribes it  as  the  burial-place  of  the  trumpeter  Misenus  :  — 
At  plus  jEneas  ingenti  mole  sepulcrum 
Inponit,  suaque  anna  viro  remumque  tubamque 
Monte  sub  aereo,  qui  nunc  Misenus  ab  illo 
Dicitur  aeternumqve  tenet  per  saecula  nomen. 

The  summit  (300  ft.)  commands  one  of  the  most  striking 
**Views  in  the  environs  of  Naples  (20  c.  to  proprietor).  It  embraces 
the  bays  of  Naples  and  Gaeta  and  the  surrounding  heights,  with 
the  peculiarity  that  the  spectator  appears  to  stand  in  the  midst  of 
a  complicated  assemblage  of  straits,  peninsulas,  bays,  lakes,  and 
promontories.  On  the  side  next  the  sea  rises  a  picturesque  medieval 


102   Route  4.  LAGO  DEL  FUSARO.  Environs 

watch-tower ;    another  similar  tower  has  recently  been  removed  to 
make  way  for  a  lighthouse. 

Carriages  return  to  where  the  road  forks  and  follow  the  road 
passing  to  the  N.  of  the  Mare  Morto.  After  ahout  1/i  M.  the  road 
again  forks;  we  follow  the  branch  to  the  right,  leading  between  the 
Monte  di  Procida,  a  volcanic  rock  ,  covered  with  vineyards  yielding 
excellent  wine,  and  fragments  of  ancient  villas,  and  the  Monte  de 
Salvatichi,  to  (i3/i  M.)  Torre  di  Gaveta  and  (2^.2  M.)  the  Lago  del 
Fusaro  (see  below). 

"Walkers  cross  the  narrow  strip  of  coast,  about  1  M.  in  length, 
separating  the  sea  (Canale  di  Procida)  from  the  Mare  Morto,  called 
the  Spiaggia  di  Miniscola,  or  Miliscola,  a  name  which  is  said  to  he 
a  corruption  of  Militis  Schola  ('military  exercising-ground').  At  the 
foot  of  the  Monte  di  Procida,  at  the  point  where  the  road  from  Baja 
reaches  it,  is  the  landing-place  (sbarcatojo)  for  boats  to  Procida 
(p.  104;  iy2-2fr.).  About  i/3  M.  to  the  N.  is  the  junction  of  the 
above-mentioned  carriage-road,  to  Torre  di  Gaveta  and  the  Lago  del 
Fusaro. 

The  distance  by  Railway  from  Baja  to  the  Lago  del  Fusaro  is 
little  more  than  1/2  M.    Immediately  beyond  Baja  is  a  short  tunnel. 

The  Lago  del  Fusaro ,  perhaps  once  the  harbour  of  Cumae,  to 
which  the  poetical  name  of  the  Acherusian  Lake  is  sometimes 
applied,  is  believed  to  occupy  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano.  It  is 
celebrated  for  its  oysters.  At  the  station  is  an  unpretending  Trat- 
toria, and  100  paces  farther  on  is  the  entrance  to  the  Ostricoltura, 
with  a  :':ftestaurant  and  pleasure-gardens,  much  frequented  in  spring 
and  autumn  (in  summer  open  on  Sun.  only).  In  the  lake,  opposite 
the  restaurant,  is  a  pavilion  or  Casino,  erected  by  Ferdinand  I. 
(open  to  visitors). 

The  railway  ends,  ll/i  M.  farther  on,  at  the  Torre  di  Qaveta, 
near  which  are  the  ruins  of  the  villa  of  Servilius  Vatia,  who  retired 
hither  when  Nero's  folly  and  tyranny  at  Rome  had  become  in- 
sufferable. 

From  the  Lago  del  Fusaro  a  walk  of  ahout  3/4  hr.  by  the  road 
running  to  the  N.  past  the  Ostricoltura  brings  us  to  Cumae.  About 
1%  M.  from  the  station  of  Fusaro  the  road  forks,  the  branch  to 
the  right  leading  to  the  Arco  Felice  (p.  103).  In  a  vigna,  about 
120  paces  before  this  bifurcation,  we  observe  to  the  right  an  ancient 
Amphitheatre  with  twenty-one  tiers  of  seats,  covered  with  earth  and 
underwood.  If  we  then  follow  the  branch  of  the  road  to  the  left, 
and  after  90  paces  diverge  from  it,  beside  a  large  farm-yard,  by  a 
path  to  the  left  (last  part  steep),  we  are  led  in  i/i  hr.  to  the  site  of 
ancient  — 

Cumse,  Greek  Cyme,  the  most  ancient  Greek  colony  in  Italy, 
situated  near  the  sea  on  a  voloanic  eminence  (trachyte),  which 
rises  from  the  extensive  plain  between  the  Monte  di  Procida  and 
the  mouth  of  the  Volturno. 


of  Naples.  CUM^E.  4.  Route.      103 

The  town  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  iEolians  from  Asia  Minor 
in  B.  C.  1050,  or  at  an  even  earlier  period.  Cumae  in  its  turn  founded 
Dicaearchia,  the  modern  Pozzuoli,  and  Palaeopolis,  the  modern  Naples,  and 
exercised  the  most  widely  extended  influence  on  the  civilisation  of  the 
Italian  peninsula.  All  the  different  alphabets  of  Italy  were  derived  from 
the  CumEean ;  and  Cumae  was  the  centre  whence  the  Hellenic  forms  of 
worship,  and  with  them  Hellenic  culture,  became  gradually  diffused  among 
the  aboriginal  tribes.  Rome  received  the  mysterious  Sibylline  books  from 
Cumae,  and  the  last  of  the  Tarquinii  died  here  in  exile.  The  city,  which 
once  boasted  of  great  wealth  and  commercial  prosperity,  was  often  seri- 
ously imperilled  by  the  attacks  of  the  neighbouring  tribes,  especially  the 
Etruscans ,  who  were  signally  defeated  in  a  naval  battle  near  Cumse ,  by 
Hiero  of  Syracuse,  the  ally  of  the  citizens,  B.C.  474.  Pindar  cel- 
ebrates this  victory  in  the  first  Pythian  ode ,  and  a  helmet  of  the  en- 
emy dedicated  at  Olympia  as  a  votive  offering  from  the  spoil  was  found 
there  (now  in  the  British  Museum).  At  the  close  of  the  5th  cent.  Cumae 
participated  in  the  general  decline  of  the  Hellenistic  towns.  In  420  it  was 
stormed  by  the  Samnites,  and  in  337  taken  by  the  Romans,  after  which 
it  became  a  Roman  municipium  of  little  importance.  Under  the  emperors 
it  fell  entirely  to  decay,  but  was  restored  by  the  Goths.  In  the  9th  cent, 
it  was  burned  by  the  Saracens ,  and  in  the  13th  it  was  finally  destroyed 
as  a  stronghold  of  pirates  by  the  inhabitants  of  Naples  and  Aversa. 

Fragments  of  the  huge  external  walls  of  the  former  *  Acropolis 
are  still  standing.  Beautiful  prospect  thence  towards  the  sea, 
Gaeta,  and  the  Ponza  Islands,  and  (to  the  left)  of  the  Lago  Fusaro, 
Ischia,  etc.  Extensive  remains  of  the  ancient  fortifications  are 
preserved,  especially  on  the  E.  side  and  by  the  S.  entrance.  The 
rock  on  which  this  castle  stood  is  perforated  in  every  direction 
with  passages  and  shafts.  One  of  these  (descend  to  the  left  by  the 
hut),  with  numerous  lateral  openings  and  subterranean  passages,  is 
thought  to  correspond  with  the  description  given  by  Virgil  (.(En. 
vi.  41)  of  the  Grotto  of  the  Sibyl,  which  had  a  hundred  entrances 
and  as  many  issues,  'whence  resound  as  many  voices,  the  oracles 
of  the  prophetess'.  The  principal  entrance  is  on  the  side  of  the 
hill  towards  the  sea,  but  most  of  the  passages  are  blocked  up.  It 
is  believed  that  one  of  the  passages  leads  to  a  large,  dark  cavern 
in  the  direction  of  the  Lago  del  Fusaro.  Numerous  interesting  and 
valuable  objects  found  here  are  now  preserved  at  Naples  (p.  70), 
Paris,  and  St.  Petersburg.  —  The  form  of  the  temples  of  Apollo, 
Diana,  the  Giants,  and  Serapis,  where  excavations  have  brought 
sculptures  and  columns  to  light,  is  not  now  traceable.  The  scanty 
ruins  are  concealed  by  vineyards  and  underwood. 

On  the  return  we  follow  the  road,  mentioned  on  p.  1(12,  leading  to 
the  Arco  Felice.  After  about  400  yds .  an  ancient  paved  way  diverges 
to  the  right  to  a  subterranean  vaulted  passage,  called  the  Qrotta  della  Pace 
(after  Pietro  della  Pace,  a  Spaniard  who  explored  it  in  the  16th  cent.). 
It  was  constructed  by  Agrippa  for  the  purpose  of  affording  direct  commun- 
ication between  Cumae  and  the  Lacus  Avernus.  This  tunnel  is  upwards 
of  '/jM.  in  length,  and  is  lighted  at  intervals  by  shafts  from  above.  The 
entrance  is  closed  by  a  gate  (admission  1/2  fr.).  The  floor  is  covered 
with  deep  fine  sand.  The  tunnel  debouches  on  the  N.W.  bank  of  the 
Lacus  Avernus  (p.  9S). 

About  400  yds.  farther  the  road,  still  showing  traces  of  the  ancient 
pavement,  passes  beneath  the  Arco  Felice,  a  huge  structure  of  brickwork, 
U3  ft.  high  and  18'/2  ft.  wide,  spanning  a  hollow.  On  the  summit  are  traces 
of    an   aqueduct.     The  arch  may  have    been  exclusively  destined  for  the 


104     Route  5.  PROCIDA. 

latter  purpose,  or  it  may  also  have  carried  a  road  over  the  higher  ground. 
A  few  min.  later  the  way  joins  a  broad  road  which  follows  the  top  of 
the  E.  margin  of  the  Lago  Averno  and  then  descends  to  (30-35  min.) 
the  railway-station  of  Arco  Felice  (p.  9?). 

5.    Procida  and  Ischia. 

Comp.  the  Map. 

Steamboat  from  Pozzuoli  to  Procida  and  Ischia  in  connection  with 
the  Ferrovia  Cumana  (p.  91),  twice  daily  in  l'/2hr.;  fares:  from  Corso 
Vittorio  Emanuele  (Naples)  to  Casamicciola,  3fr.  45,  2  fr.  65,  1  fr.  40  c, 
return-ticket  5  fr.  20,  4  fr.  20,  2  fr.  15  c;  from  Pozzuoli  to  Casamicciola, 
1st  and  2nd  cl.  2  fr.  35,  3rd  cl.  1  fr.  20,  return,  3  fr.  45,  1  fr.  80  c.  In 
addition  5  c.  passenger-duty  is  charged  on  each  ticket.  Return-tickets  are 
valid  for  four  days.  —  Procida  and  the  towns  of  Ischia  and  Forio  are  also 
touched  at  by  the  Mail  Steamers  to  the  Ponza  Islands  (p.  14,  leaving  the 
Immacolatella  at  Naples,  where  they  lie  alongside  the  quay,  on  Mon.  and 
Thurs.  mornings.,  returning  from  Ischia  on  Tues.  and  Frid.  afternoons). 
—  The  voyage  from  Naples  to  Procida  takes  l'/2  hr. ;  to  Ischia  2>/2  hrs. ; 
to  Forio  3'/2  hrs.  —  Embarking  or  landing  at  Pozzuoli  is  free;  at  Procida, 
Ischia,  or  Casamicciola  15  c.  ;  the  boatmen  are  rarely  satisfied  with  this 
tariff,  but  their  importunities  should  be  disregarded. 

The  most  convenient  arrangement  for  visiting  these  islands  varies 
with  the  hour  at  which  the  start  is  made  from  Naples.  Travellers  who 
start  early  in  the  morning,  have  ample  time  to  visit  Procida  and  reach 
Ischia  the  same  day.  —  Those  who  land  at  Procida ,  ascend  to  the  fort 
for  the  sake  of  the  view,  and  then  either  traverse  the  island  lengthwise 
to  the  bay  of  Chiajolella  (2  M.),  where  boats  are  found  for  the  crossing  to 
Porto  a" Ischia;  or  they  may  go  on  by  the  afternoon  steamer  to  Casamicciola. 
Those  who  omit  Procida  need  not  start  from  Naples  until  the  afternoon. 
Next  morning  drive  to  Fontana  (one-horse  can1,  from  Casamicciola  in  4, 
from  Porto  d'Ischia  in  3  hrs.),  whence  Monte  Epomeo  can  easily  be  ascend- 
ed in  3/4  hr.  It  is  even  possible  by  making  a  very  early  start  to  return 
to  Naples  the  same  day;  but  a  longer  visit  is  strongly  recommended.  From 
Casamicciola  to  Forio,  see  p.  107. 

A  rowing-boat  takes  6  hrs.  to  cross  from  Ischia  to  Capri  in  fine  wea- 
ther (20  fr.). 

Procida,  the  Prochyta  or  Prochyte  of  the  ancients,  like  its 
sister  island  Ischia,  with  which  it  appears  once  to  have  been  con- 
nected, is  of  volcanic  origin,  being  composed  of  pumice-stone 
and  lava.  It  consists  of  two  contiguous  craters,  which  now  form 
two  semicircular  bays,  their  S.  margins  having  been  destroyed 
by  the  action  of  the  sea.  A  third  and  smaller  crater  forms 
the  creek  of  Chiajolella,  and  a  fourth  the  neighbouring  island 
of  Vivara,  which  has  been  separated  from  Procida  by  some  con- 
vulsion of  nature.  The  island  is  2  M.  in  length,  and  of  varying 
width;  population  14,000,  whose  occupations  are  fishing  and  the 
cultivation  of  the  vine  and  other  fruit.  The  surface  is  somewhat 
flat  compared  with  that  of  its  more  majestic  sister  isle. 

As  the  island  of  Procida  is  approached,  the  most  conspicuous 
object  is  the  fort,  situated  on  the  Punta  di  Rocciola,  the  N.E.  ex- 
tremity. Below  lies  the  town  of  Procida,  extending  along  the  N. 
coast,  partly  built  on  the  higher  ground  above,  and  stretching 
thence  towards  the  S.  side.  The  white,  glistening  houses  with 
their  flat  roofs  present  a  somewhat  Oriental  aspect.  The  chief  festi- 
vals on  the  island  are  St.  Michael's  Day  (29th  Sept.)  and  8th  May. 


PROCIDA.  5.  Route.       105 

The  landing-place  ('Marina')  is  on  the  N.  side.  In  order  to  reach 
the  castle  we  follow  the  main  street  of  the  village  {Albergo  del  Fiori, 
primitive],  which  ascends  to  the  left  by  the  Carre  del  Commercio  at 
the  W.  end  of  the  Marina,  and  take  the  first  side-street  to  the  left. 
This  leads  to  the  small  Piazza  dei  Martiri,  with  a  tablet  in  memory 
of  twelve  Procidans  who  were  executed  during  the  reaction  of  1799 
(fine  view  towards  the  S.).  In  u  min.  more  we  reach  the  Castle, 
now  a  house  of  correction,  situated  on  a  precipitous  rock,  and  com- 
manding fine  *Views  of  ProcidaandtheEpomeo,  Capo  Miseno,  Capri, 
Vesuvius,  and  the  peninsula  of  Sorrento. 

The  above-mentioned  main  street  intersects  the  town  from  E. 
to  W.,  and  is  prolonged  to  the  left  by  the  'Strada  Yittorio  Ema- 
nuele',  which  runs  between  garden-walls  and  rows  of  houses,  and 
traverses  the  whole  island  towards  the  S.W.  In  40  min.  we  reach 
the  Bay  of  Chiajolella,  situated  below  the  old  chateau  of  S.  Mar- 
garita, and  near  the  small  olive -clad  island  of  Vivara.  At  the 
Chiajolella  boats  for  the  passage  to  Ischia  are  always  to  be  found 
(3/4  hr.  ;  fare  2  fr.).  As  soon  as  we  have  passed  Vivara,  we  obtain 
a  view  of  Ischia  with  its  beautiful  hills,  commanded  by  the  summit 
of  the  Epomeo,  with  the  town  and  castle  of  Ischia  in  the  foreground. 


Ischia,  the  Pithecusa,  Mnaria,  or  Inarime  of  antiquity,  and 
the  mediaeval  Iscla,  the  largest  island  near  Naples,  is  about  19  M. 
in  circumference,  without  taking  the  numerous  indentations  into 
account,  and  has  about  20.000  inhabitants,  who  are  principally 
engaged  in  the  culture  of  the  vine  (white  wine,  light  and  slightly 
acid)  and  other  fruit,  and  to  a  certain  extent  in  fishing.  The 
manufacture  of  Mattoni,  a  kind  of  tiles,  and  other  articles  from  a 
variety  of  grey  clay  (creta)  found  in  the  island,  is  of  great  an- 
tiquity. Straw-plaiting  has  recently  been  considerably  developed 
at  Lacco  (p.  107).  The  island  was  almost  entirely  neglected  by 
travellers  after  the  severe  earthquake  of  1883,  but  visitors  are  now 
beginning  to  find  their  way  back  to  the  mineral  springs,  which 
still  retain  their  efficacy.  The  climate  is  genial,  the  soil  extremely 
productive ;  the  scenery  almost  everywhere  singularly  beautiful, 
though  only  seen  in  its  full  glory  in  summer.  The  entire  island 
is  of  volcanic  origin.  Monte  Epomeo  (the  ancient  Epomeus,  or  Epo- 
peus)  was  an  active  volcano  at  a  much  earlier  period  than  Vesu- 
vius, and  in  consequence  of  its  eruptions  the  island  was  deserted 
in  B.  C.  474  by  the  greater  number  of  the  Greek  inhabitants. 
Eruptions  also  took  place  in  B.C.  92,  and  in  the  reigns  of  Titus, 
Antoninus  Pius,  and  Diocletian.  According  to  the  ancient  poets, 
the  giant  Typhceus,  transfixed  by  the  thunderbolt  of  Jupiter,  lay 
buried  beneath  this  mountain,  like  Enceladus  under  yEtna,  period- 
ically groaning  and  causing  fearful  eruptions  of  fire.  The  last 
eruption  recorded  took  place  in  1302.  The  stream  of  lava  which 
on  that  occasion  descended  to  the  sea  near  Ischia  is  not  yet  wholly 


106     Route  5.  ISCHIA.  Environs 

covered  with  vegetation.     The  earthquake  of  28th  July  1883  dis- 
placed a  large  mass  from  the  mountain. 

After  the  fall  of  Rome  Ischia  suffered  many  attacks  and  devastations 
at  the  hands  of  the  different  lords  of  Italy,  especially  the  Saracens  in  813 
and  847,  the  Pisans  in  1135,  and  the  Emp.  Henry  VI.  and  his  son 
Frederick  II.  In  1282  it  revolted  with  Sicily  against  the  Anjou  dynasty, 
hut  was  subdued  by  Charles  II.  of  Naples  in  1299,  and  has  since  been 
united  with  the  kingdom  and  shared  its  vicissitudes.  The  celebrated 
general,  the  Marchess  Pescara,  was  born  in  1489  at  the  castle  of  Ischia, 
which  was  afterwards  gallantly  defended  by  his  sister  Constance  against 
the  forces  of  Louis  XII.  of  France.  As  a  reward,  her  family  were  invested 
with  the  governorship  of  Ischia,  which  they  retained  till  1734.  In  1525 
Pescara's  widow,  Vittoria  Colonna,  celebrated  alike  for  her  talent  and 
beauty,  the  poetical  friend  of  Michael  Angelo,  retired  to  Ischia  to  mourn 
her  husband's  loss.  So  too  Maria  of  Aragon  in  1548,  widow  of  the  Mar- 
chese  del  Vasto. 

Ischia,  the  capital  of  the  island,  with  7000  inhah.,  and  the 
seat  of  a  bishop ,  stretches  picturesquely  along  the  shore  in  the 
form  of  a  street,  1  M.  in  length,  extending  from  the  Castle  on  its 
lofty  isolated  rock  on  the  S.  to  the  Punta  Molina  on  the  N.  The 
castle,  erected  by  Alphonso  V.  of  Aragon  (Alphonso  I.  of  Naples) 
about  1450 ,  afterwards  the  residence  of  Vittoria  Colonna  [see 
above),  and  connected  with  the  land  by  a  stone  pier  (280  ft.  in 
length) ,  deserves  a  visit  for  the  sake  of  the  *View  from  the  roof 
(20-30  c). 

From  Ischia  a  good  road  skirts  the  whole  N.  coast  of  the  is- 
land, passing  Porto  d'Ischia  and  Oasamicciola,  to  (7  M.)  Forio, 
which  is  situated  on  the  "W.  coast,  and  thence  to  the  Monte  Im- 
peratore.  It  is  to  be  conducted  round  the  S.  side  of  the  island  to 
Moropano,  the  present  terminus  of  the  new  road  from  Ischia.  From 
the  landing-place  at  Ischia  we  follow  the  road  to  the  right  in  a 
straight  direction,  crossing  the  Lava  dell'  Arso,  or  lava-stream  of 
1302.    About  1  M.  from  Ischia  we  reach  — 

Porto  d'Ischia  (Grand  Hotel  Fasolini,  definite  bargain  advisable ; 
Hotel-Pension  S.  Pietro,  on  the  Punta  S.  Angelo  or  S.  Pietro,  fac- 
ing the  sea;  Cafe  Angarella ;  Cafe  Isolano,  both  well  spoken  of ; 
Cafe  del  Viaggiatori ;  Cafe  Epomeo ;  all  also  restaurants,  with  rooms), 
also  called  Bagno  d'Ischia,  from  several  warm  salt  springs,  which 
are  used  at  different  bathing  establishments.  In  the  piazza,  close  to 
the  harbour,  are  the  large  Bathing  Establishment,  and  a  royal  park 
and  casino  (now  a  bath).  The  harbour,  the  circular  shape  of  which 
denotes  that  it  occupies  an  old  crater,  was  at  one  time  a  lake,  but 
it  was  connected  with  the  sea  in  1853-56  in  order  to  afford  refuge 
to  vessels  in  stormy  weather.  Excursion  to  Moropano  and  ascent 
of  Monte  Epomeo  see  p.  107. 

The  road  ('Via  Quercia')  ascends  to  the  left  by  a  yellow  church 
with  Ionic  columns,  being  accompanied  by  the  telegraph-wires,  and 
commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  coast  and  the  sea.  About 
1l/-2  M.  farther  we  reach  — 

Casamicciola.  —  Hotels.  "Hotel  Pit^cusa,  E.  3,  B.  l'/z,  dej.  3, 
D.4!/2,  pens.  10  fr.,  cheaper  for  a  longer  stay,  well   spoken  of;  Hotel  du 


of  Naples.  ISOHIA.  5.  Route.      107 

Vesove,  R.  3  fr.,  L.  40  c,  A.  1/2,  B.  l'/j,  dej.  21/2,'  D.  4,  pens.  7-8  fr.;  Villa 
Balsamo,  Grande  Senti.nella,  both  higher  up,  the  latter  1  M.  from  the 
sea;  Piccola  Sentinella,  new.  —  Restaurant  des  Strangers ,  on  the  beach, 
unpretending. 

Carriage  with  one  horse,  on  the  quay,  l'/2  fr.  per  hr.  —  Donkey,  1  fr. 
per  hr.  (bargain  advisable). 

Casamicciola ,  formerly  a  little  town  with  4500  inhab.,  fre- 
quented by  Italians  and  foreigners  as  a  summer-resort  on  ac- 
count of  its  charming  situation  on  the  N.  slopes  of  the  Epomeo  and 
its  warm  alkaline  and  saline  springs.  The  terrible  earthquake  of 
28th  July  1883,  however,  in  which  about  7500  lives  were  lost,  laid 
it  almost  entirely  in  ruins.  The  church,  the  bath-houses,  and  the 
Monte  della  Misericordia  hospital  were  laid  in  shattered  heaps,  and 
most  of  the  few  houses  that  remained  standing  suffered  severely. 
The  rebuilding  of  the  town  is  superintended  by  a  Comitato  di  Ri- 
sorgimento;  and  by  order  of  government  the  new  houses  are  all  built 
of  light  timber  and  plaster  work.  A  wide  street  is  to  be  constructed 
along  the  shore.  Several  Baths  have  been  reopened ;  but  many  of 
the  townspeople  still  live  in  the  wooden  huts  hastily  erected  after 
the  disaster.  A  visit  to  the  scene  of  the  calamity  takes  1-2  hrs. ;  the 
coachman  should  be  directed  to  drive  to  the  upper  part  of  the  former 
town,  in  which  the  earthquake  was  most  severely  felt.  The  hill  com- 
mands a  fine  view.  A  visit  may  also  be  paid  to  the  new  Campo 
Siinto,  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  Rotaro,  to  the  E.,  where  the  victims 
of  the  earthquake  of  1883  are  buried. 

The  road  continues  along  the  slope  a  little  longer,  and  then 
descends  to  Lacco,  a  village  where  the  earthquake  was  much  less 
disastrous.  At  the  beginning  of  the  village,  to  the  left,  is  the 
School  of  Straw-plaiting  (tasteful  specimens  for  sale;  conip.  p.  26); 
farther  on  is  situated  the  church  of  Sta.  Restituta ,  the  patroness  of 
the  island,  whose  festival  (17th  May)  is  celebrated  by  the  illumi- 
nation of  the  neighbouring  Monte  Vico.  Near  the  former  monastery 
and  in  the  garden  attached  to  it  rise  hot  springs  which  are  used  for 
vapour-baths.  A  huge  rock  in  the  sea,  near  the  village,  is  named 
'il  Fungo'  from  its  shape. 

The  road  leads  above  an  ancient  lava-stream  (snakes  abundant) 
from  Lacco  to  (3  M.)  Forlo,  the  most  populous  place  in  the  island, 
with  upward  of  7000  inhabitants.  The  Ponza  steamers  (p.  104)  touch 
here.  The  Franciscan  monastery  by  the  sea  merits  a  visit  on  account 
of  the  beauty  of  its  situation.  Fine  view  of  the  Monte  Epomeo  and 
the  Punta  Irnperatore,  the  S.W.  extremity  of  the  island. 

The  Ascent  op  the  Epomeo  (horse  or  donkey  4-5  fr.  and  fee), 
occupying  2'/2-3  hrs.,  may  be  undertaken  from  any  of  the  principal 
towns,  but  is  most  conveniently  accomplished  from  Porto  d'Ischia 
or  from  Casamicciola  (one-horse  carr.  to  Fontana  from  Porto  d'Ischia 
3,  from  Casamicciola  4 hrs.;  provisions  should  betaken).  The  road 
from  Porto  d'Ischia  crosses  the  Lava  dell'Arso  (p.  106  J,  the 
course  of  which  is    still  distinctly  visible  above,   and  leads  first 


108     Route  6.  PORTICI. 

through  pine-woods  and  then  through  luxuriant  vineyards  and 
orchards  to  Barano,  beyond  which  we  enjoy  a  fine  survey  of  the 
sea  and  the  fertile  island.  "We  then  cross  a  gorge  and  reach  Moro- 
pano,  and  then  For  tana.  An  easy  footpath  (guide  not  necessary) 
leads  hence  to  the  summit  in  3/4  hr.  — The  **Epomeo  (2782  ft.)  falls 
away  on  the  N.  side  almost  perpendicularly,  hut  is  less  steep  on  the 
other  three  sides.  At  the  top  are  a  Hermitage  and  the  Chapel  of  S. 
Nicola,  hewn  in  the  volcanic  rock,  from  which  the  mountain  is  also 
called  Monte  S.  Nicola.  Wine  and  bread  (bargaining  necessary)  may 
be  obtained  from  the  hermit,  and  in  any  case  a  trilling  donation  is 
expected.  Passages  and  steps  cut  in  the  rock  ascend  to  the  Belvedere, 
commanding  a  strikingly  beautiful  panorama,  embracing  the  bays 
of  Gaeta  and  Naples.  At  our  feet  lies  the  island  of  Ischia  itself; 
to  the  W.  the  open  sea;  to  the  E.  the  coast  of  Italy  from  Terra- 
cina ,  the  promontory  of  Circello,  and  the  Ponza  islands  to  Capo 
Miseno,  Vesuvius,  and  the  Capo  Campanella,  the  extremity  of  the 
peninsula  of  Sorrento ;  in  the  foreground  Procida,  then  the  inden- 
tations of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  to  the  right  the  island  of  Capri;  to- 
wards the  N.  the  distant  snowy  peaks  of  the  Abruzzi.  —  The  descent 
to  Casamicciola  or  to  Forio  takes  2-2 '/g  hrs- 

6.  From  Naples  to  Pompeii  (and  Salerno). 
Herculaneum. 

Railway  to  Pompeii,  15  M.,  in  50  min.;  fares  2  fr.  75,  1  fr.  90, 1  fr.  10  c. 
(return-tickets  4  fr.  50,  3  fr.  10,  1  fr.  85  c).  —  High-road,  see  p.  111. 

The  railway  from  Naples  to  Pompeii ,  and  thence  to  Salerno 
and  Metaponto  (best  views  to  the  right),  traverses  the  suburbs 
and  crosses  the  insignificant  Sebeto,  a  stream  which  bounds  Naples 
on  the  E.  The  large  red  building  on  the  right  is  the  Granili, 
used  as  barracks  and  (as  the  name  imports)  corn -magazines. 
Beyond  these  we  obtain  a  retrospect  of  the  Castel  S.  Elmo. 
This  district  is  densely  peopled ;  the  first  village  is  the  straggling 
S.  Giovanni  a  Teduccio.  To  the  right  the  view  becomes  less  cir- 
cumscribed; and  Naples,  thePosilipo,  beyond  which  rise  the  moun- 
tains of  Ischia,  the  island  of  Capri  opposite ,  and  the  peninsula 
of  Sorrento  are  now  visible. 

5  M.  Portici.  —  Hotel.  Bellevoe,  R.  2-5,  pens.  8-10  fr.  —  Trattoria. 
Asso  di  CorPA,  clean,  cuisine  well  spoken  of. 

Tramway  to  Naples  see  p.  22  (Nos.  2,  3). 

Portici,  a  town  with  12,500  inhab.,  is  also  the  station  for  Be- 
sina  (see  p.  109).  It  has  a  small  harbour  formed  byta  molo,  from 
the  end  of  which  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  bay.  The  high- 
road from  Naples  to  Salerno  traverses  the  town,  and  also  leads 
through  the  court  of  the  palace  built  by  Charles  III.  in  1738. 
In  the  somewhat  neglected  park  of  the  latter  is  now  a  school  of 
agriculture.  —  Continuation  of  the  Railway  Journey,  see  p.  110. 


RESINA.  e.  Route.      109 

Adjoining  Portici ,  immediately  beyond  the  palace ,  are  the 
houses  of  Resina,  a  town  with  13,000  inhah.,  built  upon  the  lava- 
streams  which  cover  the  ancient  Herculaneum.  About  i/i  M.  beyond 
the  palace,  and  200  paces  beyond  the  office  of  the  Vesuvius  guides, 
immediately  on  this  side  of  a  viaduct  crossing  the  Vicolo  di  Mare, 
and  to  the  right  of  the  high-road,  is  the  entrance  to  the  excavations. 
—  Distance  thither  from  the  railway-station  of  Portici  2/3  M.  (guide 
unnecessary).  On  leaving  the  station  we  follow  the  main  street  to 
the  right,  and  after  7  min.  turn  to  the  left  ('Linea  Daziaria  del  Co- 
mune  di  Resina');  in  5  min.  more,  near  the  palace  of  Portici  (on 
the  left)  we  reach  the  above-mentioned  high-road,  which  we  follow 
to  the  right.  Over  the  entrance  is  the  inscription,  ;Scavi  di  Erco- 
lano'.  Admission  2  fr.,  for  which  the  visitor  is  provided  with  a 
guide  (no  fees)  ;  on  Sundays  gratis. 

Herculaneum,  the  Heracleia  of  the  Greeks,  derived  its  name  from  the 
worship  of  Hercules  peculiar  to  the  place.  Tradition  attributed  its 
foundation  to  the  hero  himself,  who  during  his  wanderings  in  the  West 
visited  this  district.  It  was  inhabited  by  Oscans,  the  aboriginal  natives 
of  the  country,  by  Etruscans,  and  by  Samnites  ,  before  it  became  subject 
to  Eome.  Owing  to  its  salubrious  situation  on  a  height,  between  two 
rivers,  and  being  near  the  sea,  it  became  a  favourite  site  for  Roman 
villas.  The  spot  retained  its  name  even  after  the  total  annihilation  of  the 
town  by  the  eruption  of  79.  A  number  of  poor  families  then  took  up  their 
abode  here,  but  in  472  their  village  was  again  destroyed  by  an  eruption, 
which  altered  the  configuration  of  the  whole  coast.  Subsequent  eruptions 
increased  the  depth  of  ashes  and  lava  under  which  the  old  town  was 
buried  to  40-100  ft. ,  that  being  the  depth  of  the  remains  at  the  present 
day  below  the  surface  of  the  soil.  The  discovery  of  Herculaneum  took 
place  in  1719.  Prince  d'Elbceuf  of  Lorraine,  whilst  erecting  a  casino  at 
Portici,  caused  a  well  to  be  dug  to  supply  it  with  water.  This  led  to  the 
discovery,  at  a  depth  of  about  90  ft.,  of  the  ancient  theatre.  The  excava- 
tions were  then  discontinued,  but  in  1737  Charles  III.,  when  engaged  in 
erecting  a  palace  at  Portici,  recommenced  operations,  which  were  unfor- 
tunately directed  by  unskilful  hands  and  led  to  no  satisfactory  result;  nor 
was  it  an  easy  task  to  remove  the  thick  layer  of  ashes,  that  had  hardened 
into  tuffstone,  especially  as  the  buildings  and  streets  of  Portici  and  Ke- 
sina  were  thereby  undermined.  In  1750  a  long,  narrow  passage  was  hewn 
through  the  rock,  leading  to  the  theatre,  which  lies  69  ft.  below  the  level 
of  the  street,  and  this  is  the  entrance  at  the  present  day.  In  1755  the 
Accademia  Ercolanese  was  instituted  for  the  investigation  of  the  antiquities 
discovered,  and  under  their  auspices  was  published  the  'Antichita  d'Erco- 
lano'  in  9  vols.  (Napoli,  1757-1792),  which  caused  immense  sensation  in 
the  learned  world.  The  excavations  progressed  more  favourably  under  the 
French  kings  Joseph  Napoleon  (1806-8)  and  Joachim  Murat  (1808-15).  Under 
the  Bourbons  operations  were  suspended  till  1828.  Many  of  the  most  interest- 
ing objects  were  excavated  and  again  covered;  thus  the  theatre,  part  of 
the  forum  with  its  colonnades,  a  colonnade  (erroneously  called  a  basilica), 
resembling  the  building  ofEumachia  at  Pompeii  (p.  128),  various  temples, 
a  large  villa,  in  which  were  found  most  (and  by  far  the  finest)  of  the 
bronzes  now  in  the  museum  at  Naples,  as  well  as  the  3000  papyrus-rolls 
(p.  71),  private  houses,  etc.  The  later  excavations  of  the  Italian  govern- 
ment have  as  yet  attained  no  great  result,  though  in  due  time,  doubtless, 
a  number  of  interesting  discoveries  may  confidently  be  expected,  as  the 
mantle  of  lava  has  successfully  repulsed  the  ancients  in  their  search  for 
objects  of  value. 

From  the  entrance  we  are  first  conducted  down  a  dark  flight 
of  more  than  a  hundred  steps  to  the  Theatre,  of  which  an  accurate 


110     Route  6.  HERCULANEUM.  From  Naples 

idea  is  not  easily  formed  by  the  light  of  the  flickering  candle. 
Owing  to  the  buttresses  built  to  support  the  rock  above,  the 
place  rather  resembles  a  profoundly  dark  subterranean  labyrinth. 
It  contained  four  broad  tiers  or  steps  for  the  chairs  of  the  more 
dignified  spectators,  above  which  were  sixteen  tiers  of  seats  in  six 
compartments  (cunei) :  between  these,  seven  flights  of  steps  as- 
cended to  a  broad  corridor,  above  which  were  three  more  tiers 
of  seats.  The  number  of  spectators  cannot  have  exceeded  3000. 
The  orchestra  lies  85  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  modern  Resina, 
and  is  faintly  lighted  from  above  through  the  shaft  of  the  well 
which  was  the  occasion  of  the  discovery.  One  inscription  records  that 
L.  Annius  Mammianus  Rufus  erected  the  theatre,  another  that 
Numisius,  son  of  Publius,  was  the  architect.  On  each  side  of  the 
proscenium  are  pedestals  for  honorary  statues,  with  inscriptions. 
A  visit  to  the  buildings  brought  to  light  by  the  Scavi  Nuovi 
of  1828  to  1837,  and  resumed  in  1868,  is  of  far  higher  interest. 
We  are  conducted  by  the  custodian  down  the  Vicolo  di  Mare 
(p.  109)  for  4  min. ;  the  entrance  is  by  an  iron  gate  to  the  left. 
A  street,  part  of  a  large  private  house,  and  several  houses  used  for 
trading  purposes  have  been  excavated  here.  They  lie  40  ft.  below 
the  present  surface,  and  the  different  layers  of  the  superincumbent 
lava  are  readily  distinguished.  The  houses  with  their  fittings  and 
decorations  resemble  those  of  Pompeii.  The  building-material  is 
a  yellow  tufa  from  Mte.  Somma,  of  very  soft  consistency,  which 
accounts  for  the  thickness  of  the  walls.  The  garden  of  the  principal 
house,  that  of  the  Argus,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  objects. 
It  is  enclosed  by  an  arcade  of  twenty  columns  and  six  buttresses. 
To  the  right  of  it  is  a  triclinium  with  a  painting  (not  now  visible) 
of  Mercury  before  ATgus  and  Io,  from  which  the  house  derives  its 
name.  Towards  the  sea,  the  proximity  of  which  at  that  period  is 
indicated  by  the  rapid  descent  of  the  street,  are  situated  magazines, 
three  stories  in  height,  and  well  preserved. 

Near  Portici  we  enjoy  a  fine  view  from  the  railway  of  the  Bay 
of  Naples  with  the  Castello  dell'  Ovo  and  Pizzofalcone,  commanded 
by  Camaldoli ;  in  the  background  the  Capo  Miseno  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Ischia.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  "Vesuvius  and  Resina. 
The  train  skirts  the  coast  and  traverses  the  huge  lava-stream  of 
1794,   38  ft.   in  thickness  and  700  yds.  in  breadth. 

7'/-2  M.  Torre  del  Greco.  —  Hotels.  *Eden  Hotel,  a  large  new 
building,  well  fitted  up  and  comfortably  heated,  etc.,  frequented  in  winter 
by  foreigners,  and  during  the  sea-bathing  season  by  Italians,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  5-12,  B.  li/2,  dej.  3'/2,  D-  6  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  9-18  fr.  —  Pension 
Fkaxcaise  Legeand,  new;  Pension  Belvedeke,  Pension  Suisse,  both  in 
the  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele,  pens.  6-7  fr.;  Hotel-Pension  dd  Vescve,  in 
the  Villa  Vallelunga,  pens.  6-8  fr.  —  Restaurant,  at  the  tramway-ter- 
minus (p.  22). 

Torre  del  Greco  ,  a  flourishing  town  with  25,000  inhabitants, 
stands  on  the   lava-stream  of  1631  ,    which    destroyed   two-thirds 


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to  Pompeii.  TORRE  ANNUNZIATA.  6.  Route.      Ill 

of  the  older  town.  The  lava-streams  of  1737  and  1794  also  caused 
great  damage.  The  earthquake  of  1857,  and  particularly  the 
eruption  of  8th  Dec.  1861,  proved  still  more  destructive.  On 
this  last  occasion  eleven  small  openings  were  formed  immediately 
ahove  the  town,  whence  vast  showers  of  ashes  were  precipitated, 
while  the  shore  in  the  vicinity  was  upheaved  to  the  extent  of 
3  ft.,  causing  the  ruin  of  many  houses.  Although  the  entire  base 
of  Vesuvius  as  far  as  Torre  Annunziata  is  covered  with  traces 
of  similar  catastrophes,  yet  the  inhabitants  appear  never  to  be 
deterred  from  rebuilding  their  dwellings,  a  circumstanoe  which 
has  given  rise  to  the  jesting  saying  of  the  Neapolitans,  'Napoli  fa  i 
peccati  e  la  Torre  li  paga'.  In  June  the  great  popular  festival  'Dei 
Quattro  Altarf  is  annually  celebrated  here,  in  commemoration  of  the 
abolition  of  the  feudal  dominion  in  1700.  Every  April  a  large  fleet 
of  boats  leaves  Torre  del  Greco  for  the  coral-fishery  off  the  coasts 
of  Africa  and  Sicily,  returning  in  November. 

The  line  intersects  Torre  del  Greco  (to  the  right  a  small  har- 
bour], and  then  skirts  the  sea.  To  the  left  the  monastery  of  Ca- 
maldoli  delta  Torre  is  visible,  standing  on  an  isolated  volcanic  peak 
at  the  base  of  Vesuvius,  and  thus  protected  against  lava-streams. 

After  passing  another  stream  of  lava,  the  train  reaches  — 
12i/2  M.  Torre  Annunziata,  Citth  station,  a  prosperous  town  of 
17,000  inhab.,  with  a  small  harbour  and  an  office  of  the  Vesuvius 
guides  (Agenzia  delle  Guide  del  Vesuvio  e  di  Pompei,  Via  Ventidue 
Febbraio,  CaseCosco;  see  p.  112).  A  beautiful  glimpse  is  disclosed 
here  of  the  bay  of  Castellammare  with  the  town,  commanded  by  Monte 
S.  Angelo,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  by  the  chapel  of  S. 
Michele;  beyond  it  Vico  Equense,  in  the  distance  Sorrento. 

131/2  M.  Torre  Annunziata,  Central  station,  the  junction  for 
the  railways  from  Caserta  to  Castellammare  (p.  10),  and  from 
Naples  to  Gragnano  (p.  143)  via,  Castellammare. 

The  Pompeii  train  now  proceeds  inland  towards  the  S.  E.,  and 
on  the  left  the  partially  overgrown  heaps  of  ashes  thrown  up  by 
the  excavations  soon  become  visible. 

15  M.  Pompeii,  see  p.  119. 

Continuation  of  the  line  to  Salerno,  see  R.  10. 

High  Road  prom  Naples  to  Pompeii. 

n„d  ^e,SiGH  Ef.,AD  fr0m  ?aples  (0  PomPeii  ^  also  still  much  frequented, 
and  in  cool  weather  may   be   recommended   as    a  route  as  far  as  Portici 

Pntlv    ,?ln»;.^       t  ra'iway-st,ations  at  NaPles  and   Portici  are  inconveni- 

fT    '  i„ ,   la   I  ,  *     Jf    *he  }0t   Sea90n    the    du8t   is    extremely    unpleasant. 

nn    22  Binq^e  T   £°m    ^   PiaMa   deI    """^Pio   to   Eesina,    see 

pp.  J2,  1U9;  tramway  to  Torre  del  Greco,  see  p.  23.) 

The  road,  which  traverses  the  busy  and  bustling  E.  suburb  of 
Naples,   leaves  the  town  near  the  Castello  del  Carmine,   skirts  the 
jMarinella,  and  crosses  the  Sebeto  by  the  Ponte  delta  Maddalena 
passing  the  barracks  of  the  Granili  (p.  108)  to  the  right      It  then 


112   Route  7.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS. 

leads  alsng  the  coast,  which,  however,  is  so  covered  with  villas  and 
other  houses  that  the  route  is  more  like  a  long  street  than  a  country 
road.  Maccaroni  hung  out  to  dry  is  seen  on  every  side.  The  first 
village  reached  is  S.  Giovanni  a  Teduccio,  which  is  adjoined  on  the 
left  by  the  small  town  of  La  Barra,  a  favourite  summer-resort. 
We  next  reach  Portici  (p.  103)  and  Resina  (p.  109),  which  stretch 
along  the  road  for  a  distance  of  2  M.,  the  boundary  between  them 
being  immediately  beyond  the  royal  palace,  through  the  court  of 
which  the  road  passes.  At  the  beginning  of  Resina  on  the  left  is  the 
office  for  the  Vesuvius  guides  (see  below).  On  the  right,  farther 
on,  is  the  entrance  to  the  excavations  of  Herculaneum  (p.  109), 
beyond  which  the  road  to  Vesuvius  diverges  to  the  left  (see  p.  116). 
We  next  pass  the  chateau  of  Favorita  on  the  right,  with  a  fine 
park,  now  in  the  possession  of  the  ex-khedive  Ismail  Pasha  (no  ad- 
mission). 

As  far  as  Torre  del  Greco  (p.  110)  the  road  runs  between 
houses  and  garden-walls ,  but  farther  on  it  commands  an  unim- 
peded view.  Torre  Annunziata,  see  p.  111.  The  drive  from 
Naples  to  Pompeii  takes  2-3  hrs.  (carr.  and  pair  20  fr.).  Pompeii, 
see  p.  119. 

7.  Mount  Vesuvius. 

The  expedition  to  Vesuvius,  for  which  bright  weather  is  desirable, 
takes  an  entire  day.  The  great  majority  of  travellers  avail  themselves 
of  the  arrangements  of  Afesfrs.  Thomas  Cook  &  Son  (p.  £0),  who  convey  travel- 
lers to  the  top  of  the  cone  and  back  for  25  fr.  each;  that  charge  including 
the  Drive  from  Naples  to  the  foot  of  the  cone  (4  his.)  and  back  (2'/2  his.), 
the  ascent  and  descent  by  the  Wire  Rope  Railway  (3  hrs.  including  stay  at 
the  top),  services  of  a  guide,  and  all  gratuities  and  fees,  except  for  extra 
conveniences  (p.  118).  Tickets  should  be  taken  the  day  before.  The  con- 
veyances start  from  the  Piazza  dei  Martiri  at  8.S0  a.  m.  in  winter  and 
at  7  a.  m.  in  summer.  Travellers  or  parties  who  desire  to  keep  by 
themselves  pay  the  following  rates:  1  pers.  45  fr.,  2  pers.  29  fr.  each,  3  pers. 
(one  on  the  box-seat)  26  fr.,  4  or  5  pers.  (the  fifth  on  the  box-seat),  25  fr. 
as  above;  these  may  order  the  carriage  to  call  for  them  at  their  hotel  at 
auy  convenient  hour.  No  large  luggage  is  allowed;  and  provisions  are 
also  forbidden,  on  the  ground  of  'octroi  formalities',  so  that  the  travellers 
must  rely  on  the  restaurant  at  the  wire-rope  railway  (p.  117)  to  satisfy 
their  bodily  wants.  —  Expeditions  at  night,  arranged  only  between  Apiil 
and  November,  and  for  parties  of  not  less  than  five,  cost  more,  and 
should  be  carefully  arranged  in  detail  beforehand.  When  Vesuvius  is 
covered  with  snow,  Cook's  excursions  are  suspended. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  drive  to  Vesuvius  in  carriages  not  belonging 
to  Messrs.  Cook,  for  in  that  case  each  person  pays  18  fr.  for  the  railway 
ticket  alone,  besides  5  fr.  (exacted  also  from  walkers)  for  the  use  of  the 
proprietary  carriage-road  leading  to  the  lower  station  (p.  117). 

A  much  less  expensive  way  of  making  the  ascend  is  to  avoid  the 
railway  and  its  neighbourhood  altogether,  and  to  ascend  on  foot  or  on 
horseback,  either  from  Resina  on  the  W.  side,  or  from  Torre  Annunziata 
or  Pompeii  on  the  S.  side.  There  are  guide  offices  at  the  two  first-named 
places,  wheie  the  tariff  for  guides  and  horses  maybe  seen  (comp.  pp.  109, 
111).  The  shameless  attacks  on  the  traveller's  pu;se,  once  common,  have 
been  much  mitigated  owing  to  the  competition  of  Messrs.  Cook.  The 
charges  at  present  are:  guide  5  fr.,  horse  or  mule  5  fr.,  horse  boy  2  fr., 
and  fee.    It   is  quite  unnecessary   to   provide  a  horse  for  the  guide.     Ex- 


MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  7.  Route.     113 

press  stipulations  should  be  made  beforehand  that  the  guide  shall  carry 
the  provisions  and  shall  conduct  the  traveller  to  all  the  points  of  interest. 
The  charges  are  less  from  Pompeii,  where  the  innkeepers  provide  guides 
and  horses  (e.  g.  guide  and  horse  from  the  Albergo  del  Sole,  5  fr.).  — 
The  ascent  without  a  guide  presents  no  difficulties  to  practised  pedestrians, 
though  the  scaling  of  the  final  cone  is  fatiguing  (coinp.  p.  113).  But 
travellers  should  on, no  account  approach  the  crater  alone. 

A  good  popular  account  of  the  volcano  is  given  in  Prof.  J.  Logan 
Lobley's  'Mt.  Vesuvius'  (London;  1889). 

Mount  Vesuvius ,  sometimes  called  Vesevus  by  ancient  poets 
(e.  g.  by  Lucretius  and  Virgil),  rises  in  isolated  majesty  from  the 
Campanian  plain,  near  the  sea.  The  height  varies,  according  to 
the  different  effects  of  the  eruptions ,  from  3900  to  4300  ft.  ; 
in  1845  the  height  was  3900  ft.,  and  in  1868  it  had  increased 
to  4255  ft. ;  it  -was  somewhat  diminished  by  the  eruption  of  1872, 
but  is  now  steadily  increasing.  The  N.E.  side  of  the  mountain  is 
named  Monte  Somma,  of  which  the  highest  peak  is  the  Punta  del 
Nasone  (3730  ft.).  A  deep  sickle-shaped  valley,  the  Atrio  del  Ca- 
vallo,  separates  Somma  from  Vesuvius  proper,  which  consists  of  a 
cone  of  ashes  with  the  crater  in  the  centre,  the  'Forge  of  Vulcan'. 
The  summit  is  also  liable  to  constant  change  after  eruptions ;  at 
present  there  are  two  openings,  the  Cratere  Centrale  and  the  Cratere 
Nuovo.  The  mountain  rises  from  the  sea  at  an  angle  of  10°,  while 
the  cone  itself  has  a  gradient  of  30-35°.  Monte  Somma  descends 
almost  perpendicularly  to  the  Atrio  del  Oavallo,  but  slopes  very 
gradually  down  to  the  plain  (3°). 

Vesuvius  in  Ancient  Times.  Vesuvius  forms  the  S.E.  ex- 
tremity, and  has  for  the  last  three  centuries  been  the  only  active 
crater,  of  a  highly  volcanic  district,  which  includes  Ischia,  Procida, 
the  Solfatara ,  and  the  Monte  Nuovo.  The  case  was  reversed  in 
ancient  times ,  as  we  are  informed  by  the  geographer  Strabo 
(Bk.  v.,  chap.  4),  who  lived  in  the  time  of  Augustus:  'Mount 
Vesuvius  is  covered  with  beautiful  meadows,  with  the  exception 
of  the  summit.  The  latter  is  indeed  for  the  most  part  level,  but 
quite  sterile ;  for  it  has  an  appearance  like  ashes ,  and  shows 
rugged  rocks  of  sooty  consistency  and  colour,  as  if  they  had 
been  consumed  by  fire.  One  might  conclude  from  this  that  the 
mountain  had  once  burned,  and  possessed  fiery  abysses,  and  had 
become  extinguished  when  the  material  was  spent.  And  just 
from  this  cause  its  fertility  may  arise ,  as  in  the  case  of  Catania 
the  eruption  of  ashes  from  Mtna,  renders  it  so  productive  of 
wine'.  About  fifty  years  later,  in  the  time  of  Nero,  A.  D.  63, 
the  volcanic  nature  of  the  mountain  manifested  itself  by  a  fearful 
earthquake ,  which  destroyed  a  great  part  of  the  prosperous  en- 
virons, and  seriously  damaged  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  This 
was  repeated  at  Naples  in  64 ,  and  again  at  intervals  till  the 
reign  of  Titus,  when,  on  24th  Aug.  79,  the  first  (recorded) 
eruption  took  place  with  appalling  fury ,  and  overhelmed  Pom- 
peii,   Herculaneum,   Stabise,   and   other   villages    of  this    smiling 

Baedeker.     Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  8 


114     Route  7.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  Eruptions. 

district.  On  that  occasion,  it  would  appear,  the  peak  now  called 
Vesuvius  was  formed.  Previously  it  had  been  a  rounded  crater ; 
the  S.  side,  where  Vesuvius  now  rises,  having  been  the  lowest. 
The  naturalist  Pliny,  then  in  command  of  a  section  of  the  fleet 
stationed  at  Misenum,  also  perished  on  this  occasion.  He  had 
ventured  as  far  as  Stabiae,  both  as  an  observer  and  for  the  purpose 
of  rendering  aid  to  the  distressed,  when  he  was  suffocated  by 
ashes  and  exhalations.  His  nephew,  the  younger  Pliny,  in  two 
letters  (Bp.  vi.  16,  20)  to  his  friend  the  historian  Tacitus,  gives 
a  graphic  description  of  this  fearful  phenomenon.  He  mentions  the 
premonitory  earthquakes,  day  turned  into  night,  the  extraordinary 
agitation  of  the  sea,  the  dense  clouds  overhanging  land  and  sea, 
and  riven  by  incessant  flashes  of  lightning,  the  emission  of  fire 
and  ashes,  the  descent  of  streams  of  lava,  and  the  universal  terror 
of  men,  who  believed  the  end  of  the  world  had  arrived.  A  similar 
description  is  given  of  an  eruption  in  the  reign  of  Alex.  Severus, 
A.D.  222,  by  Dion  Cassius  (lxvi.  23),  who  describes  how  the  clouds 
which  hovered  over  the  mountain  assumed  the  form  of  awful  co- 
lossal figures.  The  eruptions  of  Vesuvius  have  been  repeated  at 
intervals  with  varying  violence,  down  to  the  present  day.  The  next 
took  place  in  203,  under  Septimius  Severus,  and  another  in  472, 
sending  its  showers  of  ashes  as  far  as  Constantinople. 

Vesuvius  in  Modern  Times.  Down  to  the  year  1500  nine 
eruptions  are  recorded ,  and  from  that  date  to  the  present  time 
fifty.  The  mountain  has  been  known  to  be  quiescent  for  centuries 
in  succession,  while  at  other  periods  its  activity  has  been  al- 
most uninterrupted,  e.  g.  from  1717  to  1737.  From  1500  to 
1631  Vesuvius  was  quiescent,  while  in  1538  the  Monte  Nuovo 
was  upheaved  near  Pozzuoli,  and  jEtna  was  labouring  without 
intermission.  During  that  period  Vesuvius  was  entirely  covered 
with  wood  and  bushes,  like  the  deer  park  of  Astroni  at  the 
present  day,  and  cattle  grazed  peacefully  within  the  crater.  After 
this  lull,  on  16th  Dec,  1631,  came  a  most  terrific  eruption,  the 
first  of  which  we  possess  detailed  accounts.  A  huge  cloud  of 
smoke  and  ashes  rising  in  a  conical  form ,  cast  a  profound 
gloom  over  Naples  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  extended 
with  incredible  rapidity  over  the  southern  portion  of  Italy ,  as 
far  as  Tarentum.  Heavy  stones  were  thrown  to  a  distance  of 
15  M.  (one  which  fell  at  the  village  of  Somma  being  25  tons 
in  weight) ,  while  the  earth  was  convulsed  by  violent  earth- 
quakes ,  and  seven  streams  of  lava  poured  from  the  summit, 
overwhelming  Bosco,  Torre  Annunziata,  Torre  del  Greco,  Re- 
sina,  and  Portici.  No  fewer  than  3000  persons  perished  on  that 
occasion.  An  eruption  in  1707  was  of  a  very  alarming  nature, 
lasting  from  May  to  August,  and  covering  Naples  with  dense  show- 
ers of  ashes,  to  the  terror  of  the  citizens.  The  eruptions  of  1737, 
1760,  and  1767  emitted  considerable  quantities  of  lava  and  scoriae 


Eruptions.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  7.  Route.      115 

which  in  1767  descended  on  Portici ,  and  even  reached  Naples. 
One  of  the  most  stupendous  of  these  phenomena  took  place  in 
Aug.  1779,  when  a  vast  number  of  red-hot  stones  were  hurled  to 
a  height  of  2000  ft.,  spreading  terror  among  the  inhabitants  far 
and  wide.  The  lava  eruption  of  1794  was  even  more  fatal  in  its 
effects,  the  streams  precipitating  themselves  into  the  sea  by  Torre 
del  Greco ;  upwards  of  400  lives  were  lost,  and  the  ashes  were  car- 
ried as  far  as  Chieti  andTaranto.  Eruptions  during  the  present  cen- 
tury took  place  in  1804,  1805,  1822,  Feb.  1850,  and  May  1855 ; 
in  June  1858  the  upper  crater  sank  about  195  ft.  below  its  former 
elevation ;  and  on  8th  Dec.  1861  an  outbreak  devastated  Torre  del 
Greco.  These  outbreaks  were  remarkable  for  their  violence,  and 
interesting  from  the  fact  that  some  of  them  were  witnessed  by  Leo- 
pold von  Buch  (1805),  Humboldt  (1822),  and  other  men  of  science. 

The  most  recent  period  of  great  activity  began  after  a  decade 
of  comparative  quiescence  in  January  1871 ,  with  the  emission  of 
some  smaller  streams  of  lava,  and  culminated  in  the  great  eruption 
of  24th-30th  April  1872.  During  these  days  the  lava  burst  forth 
on  every  side — on  the  N.E. ,  S.W.,  and  more  particularly  at  the 
Atrio  del  Cavallo  (p.  113),  from  which  a  huge  stream  issued  with 
such  suddenness  on  26th  April  as  to  overtake  and  destroy  20  per- 
sons out  of  a  crowd  of  spectators  who  were  watching  the  spectacle, 
while  others  were  injured  by  the  stones  thrown  from  the  summit. 
The  torrent  descended  to  Massa  and  S.  Sebastiano,  which  it  partly 
destroyed,  and  ran  to  a  distance  of  3  M.  in  12  hours.  At  the  same 
time,  amidst  terrific  thundering,  the  crater  poured  forth  huge  vol- 
umes of  smoke  mingled  with  red-hot  stones  and  lava  to  a  height  of 
4000  ft.,  whilst  clouds  of  ashes,  rising  to  double  that  height,  were 
carried  by  the  wind  as  far  as  Cosenza,  a  distance  of  MOM.  The  lava 
emitted  during  this  eruption  covers  an  area  of  2  sq.  M.,  and  aver- 
ages 13  ft.  in  depth.  The  damage  was  estimated  at  upwards  of  3  mil- 
lion francs. 

Volcanic  Phenomena.  The  cause  of  these  phenomena  is  still 
to  some  extent  a  matter  of  mere  conjecture.  It  is  highly  probable 
that  they  are  intimately  connected  with  the  water  of  the  sea,  near 
which  all  the  principal  volcanoes  are  situated.  There  is  reason  to 
believe  that  the  enormous  clouds  of  steam  generated  during  erup- 
tions are  due  to  some  temporary  communication  of  the  water  with 
the  burning  liquids  of  the  interior  of  the  earth,  and  that  the  pre- 
monitory earthquakes  are  occasioned  by  the  vapours  and  gases  as 
they  expand  and  endeavour  to  find  an  outlet.  The  red-hot  fluids 
expelled  from  the  volcano  by  means  of  these  vapours  are  called  Lava. 
When,  however,  they  are  broken  by  the  vapours  into  fragments,  the 
larger  of  these  are  known  as  Lapilli  (Rapilli)  or  Scoria,  whilst  the 
minute  portions  form  Volcanic  Sand  ox  Ashes.  If  the  sides  of  the 
cone  are  strong  enough  to  resist  the  pressure  of  the  molten  lava, 
the  latter  flows  out  from  the  top  of  the  crater ;  but  if  not,  it  flows 

8* 


116      Route  7.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  Ascent 

out  at  the  sides,  generally  in  several  streams.  When  freed  from 
the  pressure  of  the  lava,  the  vapours  rise  to  a  height  of  10,000  ft., 
resembling  a  pine  in  form ,  as  Pliny  has  aptly  described  it,  car- 
rying dense  masses  of  rapilli  and  ashes  along  with  them ;  they 
are  then  condensed  in  the  air,  and  in  descending  give  rise  to 
those  formidable  streams  of  mud  (Lave  d' Aequo)  which  proved  so 
destructive  to  Herculaneum.  Vesuvius  has  of  late  been  active  in 
the  manner  described,  although  to  a  very  limited  extent,  ejecting 
vapours  and  stones  with  a  roar  resembling  that  of  distant  artillery; 
but  the  effects  of  this  action  have  been  confined  to  the  formation 
of  the  cone  in  the  crater.  More  serious  eruptions  are  accompanied 
by  loud  subterranean  noises,  earthquakes,  and  flashes  of  lightning 
and  peals  of  thunder,  owing  to  the  electricity  produced  by  the 
unwonted  pressure  of  the  air.  The  temperature  of  the  lava  as  it 
descends  occasionally  exceeds  2000°  Fahr.  The  volume  of  the 
streams,  as  well  as  their  velocity,  depends  on  a  variety  of  external 
circumstances.  The  surface  of  the  lava  ultimately  becomes  disinte- 
grated into  black  sand.  The  smoke  which  ascends  from  the 
crater  is  more  or  less  dark  in  colour,  according  to  the  quantity 
of  ashes  mingled  with  it.  The  appearance  of  fire  at  night  is  not 
flame,  but  the  reflection  of  the  molten  lava  in  the  interior  of 
the  crater  on  the  rising  clouds  of  vapour  and  ashes. 

Of  the  Minerals  ejected  by  the  volcano  ,  most  of  which  are  found  in 
the  older  lava  of  Mte.  Somma,  as  well  as  in  that  ejected  during  later 
eruptions,  about  50  species  are  at  present  known.  A  small  box  of  spe- 
cimens may  be  purchased  for  Va  fr.  The  yellow  masses,  usually  taken 
lor  sulphur,  really  consist  of  lava  coloured  by  chloride  of  iron. 

The  **  Ascent  of  Vesuvius  is  unquestionably  an  excursion 
of  extreme  interest,  though  not  unattended  with  fatigue,  and 
it  should  not  be  undertaken  in  rainy  or  stormy  weather.  "When 
the  mountain  is  covered  with  snow  in  winter  the  difficulty  of 
the  ascent  is  of  course  greater.  The  ascent  is  most  interesting 
when  the  mountain  'works',  or  ejects  scori*  and  ashes,  a  con- 
dition indicated  by  smoke  during  the  day  and  a  reflection  of  fire  at 
night,  which  may  be  observed  from  Naples.  Even  if  its  state  is  that 
of  perfect  repose,  which  is  not  often  the  case,  the  fatigue  of  the 
ascent  is  repaid  by  the  imposing  appearance  of  the  crater  and  the 
magnificent  *Panorama  commanded  by  the  summit,  extending  as 
far  as  the  Ponza  Islands  and  Mte.  Circello.  An  ascent  at  night  is, 
of  course,  made  only  when  the  mountain  'works'. 

From  Resina.  The  road  to  Vesuvius  diverges  to  the  left  from 
the  high-road  immediately  beyond  the  entrance  to  the  excavations 
of  Herculaneum  (cornp.  p.  109).  The  luxuriant  vineyards  here, 
which  are  interspersed  with  gardens  and  cottages,  presenting  a  picture 
of  teeming  fertility ,  yield  the  famous  'Lacrimae  Christi'  wine, 
which  is  generally  strong  and  heavy ,  and  never  of  a  very  re- 
fined quality.  The  wine  is  offered  for  sale  at  marly  every  cottage, 
but  had  better  not  be  partaken  of  before  the  ascent  (usual  price 


of  Vesuvius.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  7.  Route.      117 

1  fr.  per  bottle,  bargain  beforehand;  change  for  coins  larger  than 
a  franc  is  almost  invariably  withheld).  Higher  up ,  beyond  the 
garden-walls,  the  beautiful  view  is  gradually  disclosed.  In  about 
3/4  hr.  we  reach  the  huge  dark  lava-stream  of  1872 ,  which  we  can 
trace  down  to  S.  Sebastiano  and  Massa  di  Somma  (p.  115),  and 
which  the  windings  of  the  road  cross  several  times. 

In  3/4  hr.  more  we  reach  the  so-called  Hermitage  and  the  Me- 
teorological Observatory ,  situated  2220  ft.  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  and  1965  ft.  above  Eesina,  on  the  shoulder  of  the  hill  which 
divides  the  lava-streams  descending  from  the  crater  into  two 
branches.  The  Observatory,  which  the  railway-passengers  have  no 
time  to  visit,  contains ,  in  addition  to  the  usual  instruments ,  a 
'seismograph',  or  apparatus  for  recording  the  phenomena  of  earth- 
quakes. The  first  director  of  the  observatory  was  the  famous  Mel- 
loni  (d.  1854).  His  successor  Palmieri  published  an  interesting 
account  of  the  eruption  of  1872.  A  slab  has  been  placed  at 
the  entrance  of  the  building  in  memory  of  the  travellers  who 
perished  in  the  Atrio  del  Cavallo  in  1872  (p.  115;  on  which 
occasion  Sign.  Palmieri  remained  at  his  post  in  the  Observatory). 
Close  by  is  a  clean  inn. 

The  road  constructed  by  government  ends  about  1/4  M.  beyond 
the  observatory.  The  continuation  (about  l3/4  M.)  was  built  in 
1879-80  by  the  railway  -  company,  and  since  1889  has,  like  the 
wire-rope  railway  itself,  been  in  the  possession  of  Messrs.  Thomas 
Cook  $  Son.  Cook's  tourists  show  their  tickets  at  the  office  here, 
while  travellers  who  have  not  come  from  Naples  in  carriages  be- 
longing to  Messrs.  Cook,  must  here  provide  themselves  with  tickets 
(p.  112)  or  quit  the  road  (see  below).  The  road  at  first  leads  towards 
the  S.B.,  and  then  ascends  in  long  windings  to  the  Stazione  Infe- 
riore  (about  2600  ft.),  where  there  is  a  *Restaurant  (dej.  4,  D. 
6  fr.,  both  incl.  wine).  Checks  for  the  railway  are  issued  on  the 
arrival  of  the  carriages  (see  also  below),  but  passengers  are  not 
bound  to  proceed  by  the  first  train  that  starts. 

The  Wire  Rope  Railway  (Ferrovia  Funieolare)  is  900  yds. 
long,  and  the  upper  end  is  1300  ft.  higher  than  the  lower.  The 
gradient  varies  from  43:100  to  63:100.  The  ascent  or  descent 
in  the  train  takes  12  minutes.  At  the  upper  station  guides  with 
numbers  on  their  caps  are  in  waiting  (others  should  be  dismissed), 
by  whom  the  travellers  are  conducted  by  a  tolerable  footpath  over 
ashes  and  slag  to  the  (10-15  min.)  summit  of  the  crater,  which 
commands  a  fine  view.  Under  ordinary  circumstances  there  is  no 
danger  unless  one  approaches  the  shelving  brink  incautiously  or 
exposes  oneself  to  the  fumes  of  sulphur  and  showers  of  stones.  A 
total  stay  of  3  hrs.  on  the  mountain  is  allowed;  those  who  remain 
longer  do  so  at  the  risk  of  finding  no  disengaged  seat  in  the  train. 
The  coachmen  below  are  also  not  bound  to  wait  longer. 

Ladies   and   le"s  vigorrus   travellers  liad  better  engage  a  'portantina' 


118     Route  7.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS. 

or  porte-chaise  (10  fr.  to  the  top  and  back)  to  carry  them  from  the  upper 
station;  or  avail  themselves  of  an  'aiuto'  or  aid  of  a  strap  (2  fr.).  Ar- 
rangements for  either  should  be  made  at  the  lower  station  with  Cook's 
inspector,  to  whom  the  payment  is  made.  Those  who  wish  to  visit 
not  only  the  crater  but  also  the  fresh  lava,  to  which  they  must  descend 
for  about  100  yds.  on  the  side  next  the  Atrio  del  Cavallo,  should  also 
make  a  bargain  with  the  inspector  at  the  lower  station,  as  the  demands 
of  the  guides  at  the  upper  station  are  very  extortionate.  A  fee  of  1  fr. 
is  sufficient,  whether  the  guide  is  hired  by  a  single  person  or  by  a  party. 
The  guides  are  in  the  habit  of  making  impressions  on  the  hot  lava  with 
copper  coins  (charge,  1  fr.),  and  inviting  the  traveller  to  make  similar 
experiments.  The  only  risk  incurred  in  doing  so  is  that  of  damaging  the 
soles  of  one's  boots. 

The  thanks  of  tourists  are  certainly  due  to  Messrs.  Cook  for  the 
energy  with  which,  in  face  of  serious  difficulties,  they  maintain  order 
and  discipline  among  the  guides  and  others ,  who  have  been  accustomed 
for  generations  to  practise  extortion  upon  travellers.  Should,  however, 
any  cause  of  complaint  arise,  the  coupon  should  be  handed  to  the  in- 
spector and  not  to  the  guide. 

Travellers  ascending  from  Kesina  on  foot  or  on  horseback, 
leave  the  road  at  the  above-mentioned  ticket-office ,  and  follow 
a  rough  path,  which  brings  them  in  3ji  hr.  to  the  foot  of  the  cone, 
near  the  lower  railway-station.  They  are  then  conducted  across 
the  road  by  the  railway  officials,  and  begin  the  ascent  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  station.  The  ascent  of  the  precipitous  cone,  consisting 
of  slag  and  loose  ashes,  takes  1  '/4- 1  i/o  hr.  and  is  extremely  fa- 
tiguing, but  possesses  considerable  attraction  for  the  robust  moun- 
tain-climber. The  lava  by  the  sides  of  the  path  generally  affords 
a  tolerably  firm  foothold.  An  'aiuto',  or  aid  of  a  strap,  may  be 
obtained  for  3  fr.    The  descent  takes  scarcely  10  minutes. 

From  the  S.W.  Side.  The  ascent  of  Vesuvius  on  the  S.W.  side 
is  best  made  from  Boscotrecase,  l1/*  M.  from  Torre  Annunziata 
(p.  Ill)  and3/,jhr's.  drive  from  Pompeii  (see  below;  one-horse  carr. 
172-2  fr.).  There  is  a  branch  of  the  guide-office  of  Torre  Annun- 
ziata at  Boscotrecase.  The  route  ascends  through  vineyards  and 
across  lava,  reaching  the  foot  of  the  cone  in  2-272  hrs.  and  avoid- 
ing the  railway  altogether.    Thence  to  the  top  in  ly.jhr.,  see  above. 

The  'Monte  Somma  (3730  ft.)  also  affords  a  fine  view,  and  is  inter- 
esting to  geologists  and  botanists.  The  ascent  may  be  made  from  Massa, 
Somma,  or  from  Ottaiano  ("Locanda  in  the  Piazza  Mercato;  also  guides). 
The  ascent  is  most  advantageously  made  from  Somma  (no  inn ;  con- 
veyance from  Marigliano,  see  p.  174,  in  connection  with  the  1st,  3rd,  4th, 
and  5th  trains  from  and  to  Naples,  in  40  min.;  fares  from  Naples  to  Somma 
2  fr.  10,  1  fr.  40,  85  c,  return-tickets  3  fr.  30,  2  fr.  25,  1  fr.  40  c).  We 
first  proceed  through  vineyards  and  a  broad  sunken  road  to  the  pilgrimage- 
church  of  S.  Maria  del  Castello  (1425  ft.),  situated  in  a  commanding  po- 
sition on  the  verge  of  the  Bagno  del  Purgalorio,  a  gorge  diverging  to 
the  S.  At  the  steps  leading  up  to  the  church  we  descend  to  the  right  in 
the  gorge,  and  then  ascend  steadily  through  woods  of  chestnut  and  beech 
to  (l'/2  hr.)  the  Grace  (3690  ft.),  a  point  frequently  visited  by  the  sur- 
rounding inhabitants.  The  summit  (3730  ft.)  is  attained  in  a  few  minutes 
more,  and  affords  an  imposing  *View  of  Vesuvius  and  the  Atrio  del  Ca- 
vallo to  the  S.,  and  of  the  Abruzzi  to  the  N.  and  E.  The  descent  may 
be  made  to  the  W.,  by  rounding  the  roeky  pinnacles  first  on  the  N.,  then 
on  the  S.,  and   crossing   the   lava    of  1872   to  the  Observatory  (p.  117), 


110 


8.  Pompeii. 


Railway  to  Pompeii  (Stazione  di  Pompei),  see  R.  6.  —  The  distance 
to  Pompeii  from  Torre  Annunziata,  Stazione  Centrale,  is  only  li/4M.,  so 
that  the  traveller  may  find  it  convenient  to  take  one  of  the  Castellam- 
mare  trains  to  that  station;  the  high-road  thence  to  Pompeii  is  apt  to 
be  very  dusty.  As  a  rule  carriages  are  to  be  found  only  at  the  Stazione 
Citta  at  Torre  Annunziata.  —  Comp.  p.  Ill  and  the  map. 

High  Road  to  Pompeii,  very  dusty  in  summer,  like  all  the  roads 
near  Naples.  Carriage  with  one  horse  10 ,  with  two  horses  20  fr.  and 
gratuity;  drive  of  2-3  hrs.    See  p.  111. 

The  Entkance  to  the  Ruins  is  about  200  paces  from  the  Pompeii 
Station,  near  the  Hotel  Diomede  and  Hotel  Suisse.  No  attention  should 
be  paid  to  guides  'offering  themselves  outside.  Admission  on  Sundays 
is  gratis;  but  on  that  day  no  guides  are  provided  and  those  houses  in 
which  collections  are  kept  are  closed.  On  other  days  tickets  cost  2  fr. 
(the  coupon  must  be  retained,  comp.  p.  142).  Visitors  are  provided  with 
a  guide  ,  who  is  bound  to  accompany  them  and  pilot  them  through  the 
ruins  during  any  number  of  hours  between  sunrise  and  sunset.  These 
guides  are  about  60  in  number,  and  each  is  provided  with  a  badge  (number- 
ed according  to  the  seniority  of  service,  No.  1  being  the  oldest).  One  of 
those  who  speak  French  or  a  little  English  will  be  assigned  to  the  traveller 
on  application.  Implicit  confidence  cannot  be  placed  in  the  guides  for  any- 
thing beyond  mere  technical  explanations.  They  are  forbidden  to  accept 
any  gratuity.  Complaints  made  to  the  inspector  (soprastante),  or  better 
still  to  the  director  Ruggiero  at  Naples,  are  sure  to  receive  attention. 

Duration  of  Stat.  Visitors  are  admitted  from  7  a.m.  till  6  p.m. 
The  time  which  the  traveller  devotes  to  the  ruins  must  depend  on  his 
own  inclination.  Crowds  of  sight-seers,  usually  arriving  from  Naples  by 
the  morning-express,  allow  themselves  to  be  hurried  through  by  the  guides 
in  2  hours.  A  superficial  inspection  may  be  accomplished  in  4-5  hrs. 
L'inch  should  be  brought,  for  if  the  ruins  be  quitted  and  re-entered,  the 
entrance-money  is  exacted  a  second  time.  Still,  too  long  a  visit  is  apt  to 
exhaust  both  mind  and  body,  especially  in  hot  weather.  The  traveller 
should  if  possible  contrive  to  visit  Pompeii  twice,  once  with  and  once 
without  a  guide. 

Permission  to  draw,  take  measurements,  etc.,  is  obtained  at  the  Segre- 
teria  of  the  Museum  at  Naples  (comp.  p.  56) ,  where  the  applicant  must 
show  his  passport.  Artists  or  students  who  desire  to  make  prolonged 
studies  may,  on  application  at  the  office  and  production  of  their  passports, 
obtain  a  free  ticket  of  admission.  Permission  to  visit  the  ruins  by  moon- 
light is  accorded  only  to  persons  specially  introduced  to  the  director. 

Hotels.  At  the  entrance  to  Pompeii,  near  the  railway -station,  Hotel 
Diomede,  R.  &  L.  2,  B.  1,  dej.  2'/2,  D.  3'/2  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  5  fr. ; 
Hotel  Suisse,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2,  B.  1,  dej.  2-2>/2,  D.  3  (both  incl.  wine),  pens. 
5  fr.  (for  a  week  4'/2  fr.  per  day),  well  spoken  of.  —  A  little  farther  on, 
near  the  Amphitheatre,  Hotel  du  Soleil,  long  frequented  by  scholars 
and  artists,  R.  l'/2  fr.,  B.  80  c,  dej.  2-21/2,  D.  3  (both  incl.  wine),  pens. 
5  fr.  (for  a  week  41/2  fr.  per  day) ;  no  charge  for  use  of  omnibus. 

Pompeii  was  once  a  prosperous  provincial  town,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  20-30,000  souls.  The  original  Oscan  inhabitants  had  at  the 
close  of  the  republic  become  completely  Romanised,  and  after  the 
earthquake  of  A.D.  63  the  town  was  re-erected  in  the  new  Roman 
style  composed  of  Greek  and  Italian  elements.  Pompeii,  therefore, 
represents  one  definite  epoch  of  antiquity  only,  but  it  is  the  most 
important  andalmostthe  only  source  of  our  acquaintance  with  ancient 
domestic  life.  The  investigation  of  the  various  phases  of  this  life, 
even  in  its  minuter  details,  forms  a  pursuit  of  inexhaustible  interest. 

Before  visiting  Pompeii  the  traveller  is  strongly  advised  to  ao- 


1 20     Route  8.  POMPEII.  History. 

quire  some  previous  acquaintance  -with  the  place  from  boots  and 
plans,  f  The  more  familiar  the  objects  are  to  him,  the  greater  will 
be  his  enjoyment.  The  enthusiasm  called  forth  by  the  discovery  of 
Pompeii  and  the  fascination  attaching  to  the  name  are  calculated  to 
raise  the  expectations  of  non  -  archaeologists  to  too  high  a  pitch. 
The  remains  are  simply  the  bare  ruins  of  a  town  destroyed  by  fire, 
which  have  been  extricated  from  the  rubbish  accumulated  during 
seventeen  centuries;  in  order  to  summon  up  from  these  mutilated 
walls  an  accurate  picture  of  ancient  life,  frequent  and  prolonged 
visits  and  patient  observation  are  indispensable.  The  evening  is  the 
most  enjoyable  time  for  the  visit,  when  the  lights  and  shadows  on  the 
surrounding  mountains  and  the  illumination  of  the  ruins  by  the  de- 
clining sun  invest  the  place  with  magic  fascination. 

Pompeii  is  mentioned  in  history  for  the  first  time  in  B.C.  310;  but 
its  monuments,  such  as  the  wall  of  the  town  and  the  so-called  Greek 
Temple,  clearly  prove  it  to  he  of  much  greater  antiquity.  Founded  by  the 
Oscans,  it  soon  became  imbued  with  the  elements  of  Greek  civilisation,  like 
the  other  towns  of  this  extensive  tribe.  Being  situated  near  the  sea  on 
an  ancient  volcanic  eminence,  it  carried  on  extensive  commerce  with  the 
inland  Campanian  towns  by  means  of  the  navigable  river  Sarnus,  and 
enjoyed  an  uninterrupted,  though  not  brilliant  share  of  prosperity.  (The 
sea  and  river  were  separated  from  the  town  by  subsequent  convulsions  of 
nature.)  After  the  Samnite  wars,  in  which  Pompeii  had  also  participated, 
the  town  became  subject  to  Rome.  It  united  with  the  other  Italians  in 
the  Social  War.  The  rebels  were  defeated  in  the  vicinity  of  Pompeii  by 
Sulla,  who  attacked  the  town  itself,  but  unsuccessfully.  After  the  termi- 
nation of  the  war,  however,  B.C.  80,  a  colony  of  Roman  soldiers  was  sent 
thither,  and  the  inhabitants  were  compelled  to  cede  to  it  one-third  of  their 
arable  land.  In  course  of  time  Pompeii  became  thoroughly  Romanised, 
and  was  a  favourite  retreat  of  Romans  of  the  wealthier  classes,  who  (e.<?. 
Cicero)  purchased  estates  in  the  vicinity.  It  was  also  favoured  by  the  em- 
perors. Tacitus  records  a  serious  conflict  which  took  place  in  the  amphi- 
theatre, A.  D.  59,  between  the  Pompeians  and  the  neighbouring  Nucerines, 
in  'consequence  of  which  the  former  were  prohibited  from  performing 
theatrical  pieces  for  a  period  of  ten  years.  A  few  years  later,  A.D.  63,  a 
fearful  earthquake  occurred,  evidencing  the  re-awakened  activity  of  Ve- 
suvius, which  had  been  quiescent  for  centuries.  A  great  part  of  Pompeii, 
its  temples,  colonnades,  theatres,  and  private  dwellings  were  destroyed  on 
that  occasion.  This  disaster  afforded  the  inhabitants  an  opportunity  of 
carrying  out  still  more  thoroughly  the  alterations  which  they  had  already 
begun  on  their  town ,  in  a  style  more  conformable  to  the  improved 
architecture  of  imperial  Rome ,  and  it  accounts  for  the  comparatively 
modern  and  often  unfinished  character  of  the  buildings.  The  new  town 
had  not  long  been  completed ,  although  it  had  been  restored  in  a  re- 
markably short  period  with  the  aid  afforded  by  private  liberality,  when 
it  was  overtaken  by  the  final  catastrophe  of  24th  Aug.  79.  The  first 
premonitory  symptom  was  a  dense  shower  of  ashes,  a  stratum  of  which 
covered  ;the  town  to  a  depth  of  about  3  ft. ,  allowing  the  inhabitants 
time  to  escape.  Many  of  them,  however,  returned,  some  doubtless  to  rescue 
their  valuables,  others  paralysed  with  fear  and  uncertain  what  course  to 
pursue.  The  whole  number  of  those  who  perished  is  estimated  at  2000. 
The  ashes  were  followed  by  a  shower  of  red  hot  rapilli,  or  fragments  of 
pumice-stone  of  all  sizes,  which  covered  the  town  to  a  depth  of  7-8  ft. 
and  was  succeeded  by  fresh  showers  of  ashes  and  again  by  rapilli.  The 
present    superincumbent  mass    is   about   20  ft.    in    thickness.    Part    of  this 

+  Br.  Furchheim's  (p.  25)  Bibliografin  ili  Pompei'  (2nd  ed. ;  1S92)  contains 
a  full  list  of  works  published  on  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum. 


Pianta    normale    di    casa    pompeiana 
(casa   diPansa  ). 


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Typography.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.      121 

was    formed   by    subsequent    eruptions,    but   the   town   had   already   been 
completely  buried  by  the   original   catastrophe,   and   was   entirely   lost   to 
view.    Extensive  excavations,  however,   had  been  made  in  ancient  times. 
Immediately    after    the    calamity    the    survivors    doubtless   recovered    as 
many    valuables    from    their    buried    homes   as   they   could ;    and  in  sub- 
sequent   centuries    the    ruins   were   repeatedly  ransacked  for  the  marbles 
and    precious    stones    used    in    the    embellishment   of  the   temples    and 
other    buildings.      We   therefore   now   find   the    town    in    the    condition 
in  which    it  was    consigned    to    oblivion    some   fifteen    centuries    ago  as 
no  longer    containing   anything   of  value.     During    the   middle   ages    Pom- 
peii was    entirely   unknown.    In   1592   the   architect    Fontana    constructed 
a  subterranean   water-conduit  in   order  to   supply   Torre  Annunziata  from 
the  Sarno,  actually  intersecting   the  ruins,   and  to  this  day  in  use ;  yet  no 
farther    investigations   were   then    attempted.      In   1748   the    discovery    of 
some  statues   and  bronze  utensils  by   a  peasant  attracted   the  attention  of 
Charles  III.,  who  caused  excavations  to  be  made.    The  amphitheatre,   the- 
atre, and  other  parts  were  then  disinterred.    The  enthusiasm  caused  by  the 
discovery  has  been  the   frequent  theme  of  poetical  and  other  compositions 
by  Bulwer  Lytton,  Schiller,  and  other  celebrated  authors: 
What  wonder  this?  —  we  ask  the  lymphid  well, 
0  Earth  1  of  thee  —  and  from  thy  solemn  womb 
What  yield'st  thou?  —  Is  there  life  in  the  abyss  — 
Doth  a  new  race  beneath  the  lava  dwell  ? 
Returns  the  Past,  awakening  from  the  tomb  ? 


The  earth,  with  faithful  watch,  has  hoarded  all  1 
Under  the  Bourbons  the  excavations  were  continued  in  a  very  unsatis- 
factory manner.  Statues  and  valuables  alone  were  extricated,  whilst  the 
ruins  were  either  suffered  to  fall  to  decay  or  covered  up  again.  To  the 
reign  of  Murat,  however,  we  are  indebted  for  the  excavation  of  the  Forum, 
the  town-walls,  the  Street  of  Tombs,  and  many  private  houses.  The  political 
changes  of  1860  have  likewise  exercised  a  beneficial  effect.  Under  the  able 
superintendence  of  Sig.  Fiorelli,  instead  of  the  former  predatory  operations, 
a  regular  plan  has  been  adopted,  according  to  which  the  ruins  are  systema- 
tically explored  and  carefully  preserved,  and  highly  satisfactory  results  thus 
obtained.  The  movable  objects  found,  as  well  as  the  more  important 
frescoes,  have  been  removed  to  the  Museum  at  Naples,  —  a  very  desirable 
course,  as  is  obvious  from  the  injury  caused  by  exposure  to  those  left 
behind.  At  Pompeii  itself  a  museum  and  library  have  been  instituted,  a 
dwelling-house  erected  for  students  supported  by  government,  and  a  railway 
constructed  for  the 'removal  of  the  debris.  The  workmen  employed  in  the 
excavations  average  eighty  in  number,  but  several  hundred  are  at  times 
engaged.  If  the  works  continue  to  progress  at  the  same  rate  as  at  present, 
the  complete  excavation  of  the  town,  according  to  Fiorelli's  calculations, 
will  occupy  60  years  more,  and  will  cost  about  5  million  francs.  A  sum  of 
30-40,000  fr.  is  realised  yearly  from  the  admission-fees  of  visitors. 

The  town  is  built  in  the  form  of  an  irregular  ellipse,  extend- 
ing from  E.  to  W.  The  circumference  of  its  walls  amounts  to 
2843  yds.  In  consequence  of  the  prolonged  peace,  however,  the 
walls  had  entirely  lost  their  importance,  and  towards  the  sea  they 
had  been  demolished.  There  are  eight  gates.  The  excavated  portion 
embraces  not  quite  one-half  of  the  town,  but  probably  the  most 
important  part,  including  the  Forum  with  the  contiguous  temples 
and  public  buildings,  two  theatres  with  large  colonnades,  the  amphi- 
theatre, and  a  considerable  number  of  private  dwellings  of  more  or 
less  ornate  character.  Officially  the  town  is  divided  into  nine 
'Regions'  (Regiones ;  indicated  by  Roman  numerals)  by  the  four 
principal  streets  connecting  the  gates  :  the  Cardo  (central  axis)  and 


122     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Topography. 

another  parallel  street  not  yet  excavated,  running  from  N.  to  S., 
and  the  Decumanus  Major  and  Decumanus  Minor  (major  and  minor 
transverse  line),  running  from  E.  to  W.  Each  region  is  subdivided 
into  Insulae,  or  blocks  of  houses  bounded  by  four  streets ,  each 
provided  with  an  Arabic  numeral.  The  number  of  the  region  and 
that  of  the  insula  is  written  up  at  every  corner.  Each  house  is  also 
numbered.  Thus  'Reg.  VI,  Ins.  8,  No.  5'  means  the  house  No.  5  in 
£he  eighth  insula  of  the  sixth  region.  The  Italian  names  given 
formerly  to  the  streets,  though  somewhat  arbitrary,  are  more  easily 
remembered  than  these  numerals,  and  they  have  thus  been  retained 
in  the  following  description  and  on  our  map.  The  same  remark  ap- 
plies to  the  equally  arbitrary  older  names  of  the  houses;  the  newer 
names,  generally  taken  from  signet-rings  or  seals  found  in  the 
interiors,  are  affixed  in  Latin  to  the  doors. 

The  streets,  bordered  by  pavement,  are  straight  and  narrow,  sel- 
dom above  24  ft.  in  breadth,  the  narrower  lanes  14  ft.  only.  They 
are  admirably  paved  with  large  polygonal  blocks  of  lava.  At  in- 
tervals, especially  at  the  corners,  are  placed  high  stepping-stones, 
leading  from  one  side  of  the  pavement  to  the  other,  intended  for 
the  convenience  of  foot-passengers  in  rainy  weather.  The  waggons 
have  left  deep  ruts  in  the  causeways,  which  do  not  exceed  4>/2  ft. 
in  width.  At  the  corners  of  the  streets  are  public  fountains,  decorated 
with  the  head  of  a  god,  a  mask,  or  similar  ornament. 

In  the  streets  are  frequently  seen  notices  painted  in  red  let- 
ters, referring  generally  to  the  election  of  the  municipal  authori- 
ties, and  recommending  some  particular  individual  as  aedile  or 
duumvir.  Trade-signs,  like  those  of  the  present  day,  are  very 
rare.  On  the  other  hand  an  occasional  'phallus'  is  seen,  for  the 
purpose  of  averting  the  evil  eye ;  and  one  or  two  large  snakes, 
the  emblems  of  the  Lares,  the  gods  of  the  hearth  and  of  cross- 
ways,  are  very  common.  Stuccoed  walls  are  often  covered  with 
roughly  scratched  drawings  resembling  those  with  which  our  'Street 
Arabs'  still  delight  to  decorate  blank  surfaces. 

The  houses  are  slightly  built  of  concrete  (small  stones  con- 
solidated with  cement),  brick,  or  brick- shaped  stones,  and  some- 
times, particularly  the  facades,  door-posts,  or  corner  pillars,  of  blocks 
of  stone.  The  hasty  and  patched  character  of  the  construction  is 
everywhere  discernible,  owing  to  the  interpolation  of  old  walls  in 
new  buildings.  The  numerous  well-preserved  staircases  prove  that 
the  houses  must  uniformly  have  possessed  a  second  and  perhaps  also 
a  third  story.  These  upper  portions,  consisting  chiefly  of  wood, 
have,  with  a  single  exception  (p.  133),  been  destroyed  by  the  red- 
hot  scoriae  of  the  eruption. 

The  busiest  streets  may  be  identified  by  means  of  the  shops 
(taberna:),  which  were  let  to  merchants  and  shopkeepers,  in  the  same 
way  as  the  ground-floors  of  the  palazzi  in  Naples  are  occupied  by 
shops    at  the  present  day.     These  shops  were  generally  in  no  way 


Architecture.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.     123 

connected  with  the  hack  part  of  the  house,  and  presented  their  whole 
frontage  to  the  street,  from  which  they  could  be  separated  by  large 
wooden  doors.  Many  of  the  shop-tables,  covered  with  marble, 
and  not  unfrequently  fitted  up  with  large  earthen  vessels  for  the 
sale  of  wine ,  oil ,  etc. ,  are  still  preserved.  At  the  back  of  the 
shop  or  above  it  there  was  occasionally  a  second  room,  probably  oc- 
cupied by  the  shopkeeper,  or,  in  the  case  of  eating-houses,  used  to 
accommodate  the  customers.  The  great  number  of  these  shops  affords 
proof  of  the  importance  of  the  retail  traffic  at  Pompeii.  Where  there 
are  no  shops,  the  streets  are  very  monotonous.  The  absence  of  glass 
forms  one  of  the  chief  differences  between  an  ancient  and  a  modern 
dwelling.  The  ancients  therefore  concentrated  their  domestic  life  in 
the  interior  of  their  houses,  which  presented  to  the  street  a  blank  wall 
with  as  few  openings  as  possible,  and  these  covered  with  an  iron 
grating.  A  distinct  idea  of  this  mode  of  building,  without  parallel 
except  in  Oriental  countries,  is  best  obtained  in  the  more  recently 
excavated  and  better  preserved  streets  between  the  Forum  and  the 
Stabian  Street,  and  to  the  E.  of  the  latter. 

The  dwelling-houses  of  Pompeii  vary  greatly  in  size,  and  have 
obviously  been  very  differently  fitted  up ,  in  accordance  with  the 
nature  of  the  situation,  or  the  means  and  taste  of  their  owners.  Most 
of  thePompeian  houses  of  the  wealthy  middle  class  are  entered  from 
the  street  by  a  narrow  passage  (ostium)  leading  to  the  court  (atri- 
um), which  is  surrounded  by  a  covered  passage,  with  the  implu- 
vium,  or  reservoir  for  rain-water,  in  the  centre.  The  roof  sloped 
inwards  and  had  an  opening  in  the  centre  (compluvium)  which 
afforded  light  and  air  to  the  court  and  the  adjoining  rooms. 
On  each  side,  and  sometimes  in  front,  were  cubicula  or  bed-rooms. 
The  two  open  spaces  at  the  ends  of  the  sides  were  called  alne  or 
wings  (in  Rome  it  was  the  custom,  among  the  wealthier  citizens  to 
preserve  the  statues  of  their  ancestors).  Beyond  the  atrium  is  a  large 
apartment  opening  into  it ,  called  the  tablinum.  This  front  por- 
tion of  the  house  was  devoted  to  its  intercourse  with  the  external 
world ;  and  it  was  here  that  the  patron  received  his  clients  and 
transacted  business.  The  rest  of  the  house  was  destined  solely  for 
the  use  of  the  family.  Its  centre  also  consisted  of  an  open  court  or 
garden,  enclosed  by  columns,  and  thence  termed  the  peristylium. 
Sometimes,  however,  there  is  a  flower-garden  (xystus),  surrounded 
by  columns,  beyond  the  peristyle.  Around  the  peristyle  are  situated 
the  sleeping  and  eating-rooms,  slaves'  rooms,  kitchen,  cellar,  etc. 
The  upper  floor  was  destined  principally  for  the  slaves.  Most  of  the 
apartments  are  very  small ,  but  the  family  worked  and  spent  most 
of  their  time  in  the  light  and  airy  courts. 

The  reconstruction  of  a  complete  house  in  its  original  form  would 
he   most  interesting  and  instructive,  but   has  not  yet  heen  carried  out. 

The  wall-decorations  in  Pompeii  lend  it  a  peculiar  charm.  Marble 
is  very  rarely  met  with  in  the  domestic  architecture  and  not  often 


124     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Mureum. 

in  the  public  architecture  of  Pompeii,  the  columns  being  invariably 
constructed  of  tuffstone  or  bricks,  cemented  by  mortar.  The  brick 
walls  and  columns  were  then  covered  with  painted  stucco.  The  lower 
halves  of  the  columns  are  generally  red  or  yellow,  the  capitals  taste- 
fully painted ;  the  walls,  too,  where  undecorated,  are  painted  with 
bright,  and  almost  glaring  colours,  chiefly  red  and  yellow,  harmonising 
well  with  the  brilliancy  of  a  southern  sun.  The  centre  of  the  walls 
is  generally  occupied  by  a  painting  unconnected  with  the  others. 
The  best  of  these  were  removed  to  the  museum  at  Naples,  to  pro- 
tect them  from  exposure  to  the  elements;  many,  however,  of  those 
left  merit  inspection.  The  scenes  present  a  uniformly  soft,  erotic 
character,  corresponding  to  the  peaceful  and  pleasure-seeking  taste 
of  the  age  (comp.  Introd.,  p.  xlf). 


We  now  proceed  to  describe  the  different  streets  and  build- 
ings ,  beginning  with  the  Porta  Marina  ,  by  which  we  enter  the 
town  on  arriving  from  the  ticket-office  (p.  119).  We  shall  then 
proceed  to  the  Forum  and  first  explore  thence  the  streets  in  the 
S.  of  the  city  and  the  buildings  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Theatre.  We  shall  then  visit  the  Stabian  Thermae  (whence  a  digres- 
sion may  be  made  to  the  Amphitheatre),  and  proceed  by  the  Strada 
Stabiana  and  Strada  di  Nola  to  the  excavations  farthest  to  the  east. 
Next  we  shall  proceed  to  the  W.  by  the  streets  of  Fortuna  and  the 
Thermae,  traverse  the  Street  of  Mercury  and  the  Vicolo  di  Mercurio 
to  the  Herculaneum  Gate,  and  inspect  the  Street  of  Tombs. 

The  above  is  very  much  the  route  usually  adopted  by  the  guides. 
Those  who  desire  to  form  a  distinct  idea  of  the  topography  and  arrange- 
ments of  the  town  are  recommended  either  to  adopt  the  following  plan, 
or  to  frame  one  for  themselves  and  name  to  the  guide  in  order  the  places 
they  desire  to  see.  The  names  of  the  chief  sights  are  printed  in  heavier 
types.  These  who  are  pressed  for  time  had  better  omit  the  Amphitheatre. 
Travellers  who  intend  to  dine  or  put  up  at  the  Hotel  du  Soleil  should 
intimate  this  to  the  guide  at  once,  and  arrange  to  visit  the  Amphi- 
theatre last. 

The  street  passing  through  the  Porta  Marina  could  scarcely  have 
been  used  by  vehicles,  as  it  ascends  at  an  alrupt  gradient  to  one 
of  the  highest  points  in  the  city.  The  gate  has  a  path  for  foot-pas- 
sengers on  the  left.  Within  is  a  vaulted  passage  between  ancient 
magazines.    On  the  right  in  this  passage  is  the  entrance  to  the  — 

*Museum,  which  contains  many  interesting  objects,  though 
none  of  artistic  value,  arranged  in  three  rooms. 

Among  these  are  casts  and  models  of  doors,  windows,  shop-shutters, 
and  other  objects  in  wood. 

In  glass-cases  are  preserved  several  casts  of  human  corpses,  and  one 
of  the  body  of  a  dog.  Although  the  soft  parts  of  the  bodies  had  decayed 
in  course  of  time,  their  forms  frequently  remained  imprinted  on  the 
ashes,  which  afterwards  hardened.  In  1863  Fiorelli  made  the  ingenious  ex- 
periment of  carefully  removing  the  bones  of  a  body  thus  imbedded, 
and  filling  the  cavity  with  plaster,  and  he  has  succeeded  in  preserving 
the  figures  and  attitudes  of  the  deceased  after  their  death-struggle  On 
the  point  of  flight,  many  of  them  had  divested  themselves  of  most  of 
their   clothing.     Among   the    figures   are   a   young   girl   with    a  ring  on  her 


Temple  of  Apollo.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.      125 

finger,  two  women,  one  tall  and  elderly,  and  the  other  younger ;  a  man 
lying  on  his  face;  and  a  man  lying  on  his  left  side  with  remarkably  well- 
preserved  features. 

Immediately  to  the  right  in  the  second  room  is  a  handsome  Table. 
There  are  also  amphorae,  vases,  rain-spouts,  etc.,  in  terracotta;  vessels 
in  bronze;  carbonised  articles  of  food  like  those  at  Naples  (p.  71); 
skulls,  and  skeletons  of  men  and  animals. 

The  Via  Marina,  now  named  Decumanus  Minor,  ascends  hence 
in  a  straight  direction  to  the  Forum,  with  uninteresting  shops  on 
the  left. 

On  the  right  at  the  end  of  the  Via  Marina  is  a  side-entrance  to 
the  Basilica  (Reg.  VIII,  Ins.  1),  the  facade  of  which  fronts  towards 
the  Forum.  This  was  used  as  a  market  and  also  accommodated  a  law- 
court.  A  passage  round  the  interior  consists  of  twenty  -eight  brick 
columns  with  capitals  of  tufa  ;  the  entire  space  in  the  centre  was 
roofed  in,  and  was  lighted  by  openings  in  the  upper  part  of  the  side- 
walls.  On  the  walls  are  half-columns,  all  covered  with  stucco,  slighter 
and  lower  than  the  "brick  columns,  and  above  them  was  another  system 
of  columns  and  half-columns,  placed  tolerably  far  apart.  The  frag- 
ments of  tufa-columns  by  the  walls  belonged  to  this  upper  row. 
At  the  end  of  the  building  was  the  elevated  tribune,  or  seat  of 
the  presiding  magistrate,  which  was  probably  approached  by  mov- 
able steps.  In  front  of  it  is  a  pedestal  for  a  statue ;  below  are 
vaults  (perhaps  a  prison),  reached  by  two  staircases,  and  connected 
with  the  upper  hall  by  means  of  two  openings.  In  the  year  79 
the  building  seems  to  have  been  in  a  state  of  ruin  occasioned  by 
the  earthquake  of  the  year  63. 

Also  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Forum ,  to  the  left  of  the  Via 
Marina,  is  situated  the  *Temple  of  Apollo  (Keg.  VII,  Ins.  7), 
the  god  being  named  in  an  Oscan  inscription  on  the  flooring  (a 
reproduction  ;  original  now  at  Naples  ,  p.  60).  It  is  an  edifice  of 
very  early  origin,  but  restored  after  the  earthquake  of  63.  We  first 
enter  a  court  with  forty-eight  columns,  originally  Ionic,  which  had 
been  converted  by  means  of  stucco  into  Corinthian;  but  this  coating 
has  now  fallen  off.  As  the  side  towards  the  Forum  was  not  pa- 
rallel with  it,  the  wall,  in  order  to  prevent  the  eye  being  offended 
by  this  irregularity,  was  furnished  in  the  interior  with  eight  but- 
tresses at  intervals,  each  projecting  farther  than  the  last.  The 
temple  itself  rises  in  the  centre  of  the  court,  on  a  basement  7l/o  ft. 
in  height.  The  column  to  the  left  of  the  steps,  with  an  inscription 
of  the  duumviri,  who  erected  it,  bore  a  sun-dial.  Facing  the  steps 
stands  an  Altar,  with  an  inscription  of  the  donors,  the  quatuor- 
viri  of  the  town.  Against  the  columns  of  the  portico  are  six 
bases  arranged  in  pairs ,  which  formerly  bore  six  Statues :  Mer- 
cury and  (probably)  Maia  (marble  hermae),  Apollo  and  Diana 
(bronze  statues),  Venus  and  a  Hermaphrodite  (marble  statues).  The 
Mercury  is  still  in  situ,  the  Maia  is  lost,  and  the  four  others  are  now 
at  Naples.  To  the  left,  in  the  corner  in  front  of  the  Venus  and 
Diana,  are  two  small  altars.  The  Temple  itself,  which  is  approached 


126     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Forum. 

by  thirteen  steps,  was  surrounded  by  a  Corinthian  colonnade,  and 
had  a  facade  of  six  columns.  Within  the  cella  the  pedestal  is  still 
preserved,  where  the  figure  of  the  god  stood.  On  the  left  was  the 
conical  Omphalos,  the  well-known  symbol  of  Apollo.  The  large 
tripod  painted  on  the  first  pilaster  to  the  right  in  the  portico  is 
also  an  attribute  of  this  deity.  —  A  chamber  for  the  priests,  de- 
corated with  paintings,  adjoins  a  back  exit,  through  which  we  may 
reach  the  Forum. 

The  Torum  forms  the  central  point  of  the  town  (109  ft.  above 
the  sea-level").  On  the  N.  side,  detached,  stands  the  temple  of  Ju- 
piter (see  below) ;  the  other  sides  are  enclosed  by  an  arcade.  -The 
open  space  in  the  centre,  515  ft.  in  length  and  107  ft.  in  breadth, 
was  paved  with  large  slabs  and  embellished  with  numerous  hono- 
rary statues.  Twenty-two  bases  for  the  latter,  five  of  which  (four  on 
the  W.  side,  one  at  the  S.E.  corner)  still  bear  incriptions,  dedicated 
to  officials  of  high  rank,  the  duumviri  (similar  to  the  consuls  of 
Rome)  and  quinquennales  (censors)  of  the  town,  are  preserved.  The 
extensive  basements  on  the  S.  side  were  destined  for  equestrian 
statues.  The  colonnade  surrounding  the  Forum  varies  in  breadth 
from  26  to  45  ft.,  a  number  of  the  buildings  which  adjoin  it  having 
been  erected  at  a  date  prior  to  the  construction  of  the  Fovum.  Above 
the  lower  columns  of  the  Doric  order  rose  a  second  series  of  the 
Ionic,  thus  constituting  an  upper,  covered  passage,  approached  by 
steps,  several  of  which  are  still  preserved.  Even  before  the  earth- 
quake of  63  the  builders  seem  to  have  begun  to  substitute  traver- 
tine columns  for  the  older  columns  of  tuffstone  on  the  S.  and  E. 
sides,  and  to  have  been  employed  in  carrying  on  the  work  at  the 
time  when  the  town  was  destroyed.  Rough,  unfinished  portions  of 
the  new  columns  and  architrave  lie  round  the  colonnade.  —  Six 
streets  oonverge  here,  but  the  forum  was  protected  against  the  tres- 
pass of  riders  or  waggons  by  stone  pillars  round  the  margins,  and 
could  even  be  entirely  shut  off  by  gates. 

Passing  along  the  W.  side  of  the  Forum,  we  observe,  at  the  N. 
end  of  the  Temple  of  Apollo,  No.  31,  a  niche,  in  which  once  stood  a 
stone  table  with  the  standard  weights  and  measures  (see  p.  60; 
its  place  now  occupied  by  a  poor  reproduction).  Then  follows  a 
flight  of  steps,  which  led  to  the  portico  of  the  Temple  of  Apollo.  Far- 
ther on  are  No.  29,  a  hall  apparently  for  commercial  purposes,  No. 
28,  a  public  latrina,  and  then  No.  27,  a  dark  building  (closed) 
which  appears  to  have  been  a  prison  or  a  treasury.  Farther  on,  the 
Forum  is  bounded  by  a  wall.  In  front  of  it,  adjoining  the  Temple 
of  Jupiter,  is  a  Triumphal  Arch. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Forum  and  in  the  most  conspicuous 
part  of  it,  rises  the  *Temple  of  Jupiter  (Reg.  VII,  ins.  8),  on  a 
basement  97-2  ft.  in  height.  At  the  time  of  the  eruption  it  was 
already  in  ruins.  The  pronaosis  approached  by  fifteen  steps.  Aper- 
tures  in   the    floor   of  the   cella   admit  light  to   the  underground 


Macellum.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.      127 

chambers ,  which  were  latterly  used  as  a  magazine  for  building 
materials,  having  probably  been  originally  a  treasury.  The  cella 
had  two  series  of  Ionic  columns,  eight  in  each,  arranged  one  above 
the  other.  At  the  back  are  three  chambers.  At  the  farther  end, 
to  the  left,  a  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  the  pedestal  which  bore 
the  statue  of  the  god,  which  the  visitor  should  not  omit  to  visit 
as  it  affords  a  fine  panorama  of  Pompeii,  Monte  Sant'  Angelo  with 
the  chapel  of  S.  Miehele,  Quisisana,  and  the  Apennines. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  rises  a  larger  Trium- 
phal Arch  of  brick,  also  divested  of  its  marble,  which  here  forms 
the  boundary  of  the  Forum.  The  niches  on  the  N.  side  served  as 
fountain-basins.  At  the  corner  of  the  street  of  the  Augustales  (p.  133) 
is  a  relief  with  figures  of  two  men  carrying  a  wine-jar,  being  the 
sign  of  a  wine-merchant. 

The  most  northerly  building  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Forum  is  the 
Macellum  (formerly  named  the  Pantheon),  or  hall  for  the  sale  of 
provisions,  with  a  chapel  in  honour  of  the  Emperor  Augustus.  In 
front  of  it  are  pedestals  for  statues ;  on  the  exterior,  shops  pos- 
sibly occupied  by  money-changers.  The  building  is  entered  by 
two  doors  (Nos.  7  and  8).  The  interior  consists  of  a  rectangular 
court.  The  walls  are  decorated  with  *Frescoes,  of  which  those  to 
the  left  of  the  entrance,  representing  Argus  and  Io,  Ulysses  and 
Penelope ,  are  the  best  preserved.  Above,  on  the  walls,  are  re- 
presentations of  various  kinds  of  edibles,  indicating  the  purpose  of 
the  building.  The  court  was  still  unfinished  when  the  catastrophe 
took  place;  it  was  destined  to  be  enclosed  by  a  colonnade,  but  the 
limestone  masonry  has  been  laid  on  the  N.  and  W.  sides  only, 
while  on  the  other  sides  the  enclosure  is  formed  by  blocks  of  tufa. 
A  dodecagon  is  formed  in  the  centre  by  twelve  pedestals  (or  al- 
tars?), on  which  stood  columns  bearing  a  domed  roof  (or  perhaps 
statues).  To  the  right  are  eleven  chambers  simply  painted  red, 
probably  trading  stalls ;  at  the  extremity  is  an  exit  into  a  back 
street,  with  a  niche  indicated  as  the  shrine  of  the  Lares  by  painted 
serpents  (comp.  p.  122).  To  the  left  is  an  outlet  to  the  Street  of  the 
Augustales  (named  after  this  edifice).  On  the  E.  side,  opposite  us 
as  we  enter  the  building,  rises  the  shrine.  On  the  principal  pede- 
stal stood  the  statue  of  the  emperor,  in  the  side-niches  probably 
Octavia,  the  sister  of  Augustus,  and  Marcellus,  her  son  (here  re- 
placed by  copies).  To  the  left  of  this  shrine  was  another  with  an 
altar,  which  perhaps  was  employed  in  the  celebration  of  the  sa- 
crificial banquets  ;  the  gallery  by  the  lateral  wall  is  believed  to 
have  been  an  orchestra.  A  larger  apartment  to  the  right,  containing 
stands  of  masonry  with  a  slight  inclination  ,  and  furnished  with 
gutters  below  to  carry  off  blood  or  water,  is  supposed  to  have  been  a 
butoher's  or  fishmonger's. 

No.  3,  adjacent,  is  the  so  -  called  Curia,  where  it  is  generally 
believed  the  town-council  held  their  deliberations ,  though  more 


128     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Temple  of  Mercury. 

probably  it  was  used  in  connection  -with  the  worship  of  the  em- 
peror. It  is  a  square  (uncovered?)  hall,  65  ft.  long,  58  ft.  broad,  with 
an  altar  in  the  middle,  a  hemicyclical  termination,  and  several 
niches.  The  walls  and  pavement  were  formerly  covered  with  marble. 

We  next  reach  No.  2,  the  so-called  *Temple  of  Mercury,  really 
a  Temple  of  Augustus ,  83  ft.  in  length  and  53  ft.  in  breadth. 
The  court  had  an  arcade  only  in  front.  In  the  centre  is  an  *  Altar 
in  marble  with  reliefs  :  on  the  front  victims,  on  the  sides  the  saeri- 
ficial  utensils,  on  the  back  an  oak-garland  between  two  laurels,  the 
symbol  of  Augustus.  The  form  of  this  temple  has  been  skilfully 
adapted  to  the  irregular  site  on  which  it  stands.  At  the  back  are 
three  rooms  formerly  communicating  with  chambers  behind  the  so- 
called  Curia. 

Adjoining,  No.  1,  is  situated  the  Building  of  Eumachia  (Reg. 
VII,  Ins.  9),  erected  by  the  priestess  Eumachia,  and  perhaps  used 
as  a  wool-sellers'  hall.  On  the  frieze  of  the  portico  facing  the  Fo- 
rum, and  still  more  fully  over  the  entrance  in  the  Str.  dell'  Ab- 
bondanza,  may  be  read  the  following  inscription  :  'Eumachia  Lucii 
filia  sacerdos  publica  nomine  suo  et  M.  Numistri  Frontonis  fili 
chalcidicum  cryptam  porticus  Concordiae  Augustae  Pietati  sua  pe- 
cunia  fecit  eademque  dedicavit.'  The  interior  is  separated  from  the 
vestibule  (chalcidicum ;  on  the  walls ,  copies  of  two  inscriptions 
dedicated  to  Romulus  and  jEneas)  by  a  number  of  small  chambers, 
where  a  great  number  of  marble  slabs,  destined  for  the  completion 
of  the  edifice,  were  found.  In  the  interior  is  an  open  court,  once  sur- 
rounded by  fifty -four  columns  of  white  marble,  of  which  only 
fragments  are  left.  This  colonnade  (porticus)  is  surrounded  by  a 
covered  passage  (crypta) ,  which  afforded  protection  against  the 
weather.  At  the  back  of  this,  in  a  niche,  stands  the  statue  of  Eu- 
machia (a  copy,  the  original  being  at  Naples,  p.  63),  erected  by  the 
fullers  (fullones)  of  Pompeii.  —  We  pass  out  by  the  back  exit  into 
the  Strada  dell'  Abbondanza.  On  the  wall  at  the  opposite  corner 
are  represented  the  twelve  gods  with  their  attributes,  almost  effaced. 
Nearer  the  Forum,  No.  8,  House  of  the  Boar  Hunt,  named  from  the 
mosaic  in  the  passage.  The  border  of  the  large  mosaic  in  the  atrium 
represents  an  ancient  town-wall. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  Forum,  at  the  corner  of  the  Strada  dell' 
Abbondanza  (p.  131),  is  a  square  hall,  erroneously  supposed  to  be 
a  school. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Forum  are  situated  the  Tribunals,  three 
adjacent  chambers,  the  centre  one  with  a  rectangular,  the  others 
with  semicircular  extremities,  built  of  good  brick  which  was  once 
covered  with  marble.  Probably  one  of  them  (that  in  the  centre?) 
served  as  the  meeting-place  of  the  town-council,  while  the  others 
were  used  for  administrative  or  judicial  purposes. 

We  leave  the  Forum  by  the  Strada  della  Scuola,  running  to  the 
S.  on   the  left  of  the  Tribunals.     On  its  right  side  a  number  of 


Theatres.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.     129 

houses  with  several  stories  have  recently  been  exhumed,  on  the  site 
of  the  ruined  walls  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  occupied  by  the  town. 
These  (e.  g.  No.  16)  command  a  fine  view.  In  one  of  the  lower 
stories  of  No.  19  is  a  bath-room  with  paintings.  —  We  continue  to 
descend,  by  the  Vicolo  del  Teatri  to  the  left  to  the  so-called  Forum 
Triangulare  and  the  adjacent  buildings,  which  have  retained  many 
of  their  pre-Roman  characteristics. 

We  enter  the  Forum  Triangulare  through  a  fine  arcade,  partly 
restored.  The  forum  was  bounded  on  three  sides  by  a  porticus  of 
a  hundred  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  destined  chiefly  for  the 
use  of  frequenters  of  the  theatre.  On  the  N.  side  is  a  pedestal  for 
a  statue  of  Marcellus,  nephew  of  Augustus,  with  an  inscription. 
The  side  next  the  sea  was  open.  On  a  basement  here,  approached 
by  live  steps,  stood  a  Temple  in  the  ancient  Greek  style,  101  ft.  in 
length  and  67  ft.  in  breadth,  perhaps  dedicated  to  Apollo.  It  was 
surrounded  by  columns,  six  being  in  front  and  eleven  at  each  side, 
and  in  the  centie  was  the  shrine.  The  whole  building  was  in  the 
ancient  Doric  order  of  about  the  6th  cent.  B.C.  A  few  capitals,  two 
broken  columns,  and  some  fragments  of  the  wall  of  the  cella  are  now 
the  sole  remains  of  this  once  imposing  structure.  It  was  doubtless 
overthrown  before  the  earthquake  of  63  ;  and  the  inhabitants  of  the 
stuccoed  buildings  of  the  imperial  age  would  never  dream  of  restor- 
ing it  in  its  massive  and  simple  dignity.  —  The  enclosed  space  in 
front  of  the  temple  was  perhaps  used  for  the  slaughter  of  the 
victims.    To  the  left  of  it  are  three  altars. 

Beyond  the  temple,  No.  32,  is  the  so-called  Bidental,  consist- 
ing of  the  large  embouchure  of  a  fountain  (Puteal)  within  a  small 
circular  temple,  12  ft.  in  diameter,  with  eight  Doric  columns.  — 
On  the  other  side  of  the  temple  is  a  semicircular  seat,  with  a 
sun-dial. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Bidental  the  visitor  looks  down  into  a  portico, 
lying  below  the  theatre  and  originally  belonging  to  it,  but  after- 
wards fitted  up  as  Barracks  for  Gladiators.  It  possesses  seventy- 
four  columns,  and  around  it  are  a  number  of  detached  cells.  The 
edifice  had  a  second  floor,  as  the  imitation  on  the  S.  side  shows, 
which  contains  the  rooms  of  some  of  the  custodians.  In  a  chamber 
used  as  a  prison  were  found  three  skeletons  and  iron  stocks  for  the 
feet  (now  replaced  by  a  poor  wooden  reproduction) ,  in  another 
chamber  some  gladiatorial  weapons  were  found.  Sixty-three  bodies 
in  all  were  discovered  in  this  building. 

Adjoining  the  Forum  Triangulare  on  the  N.,  and  adapted  to  the 
sloping  ground,  is  the  *Great  Theatre  (Teatro  Scoperto).  It  is  a 
building  of  very  early  origin,  but  about  the  beginning  of  the  Christian 
era  it  was  restored  by  the  architect  M.  Artorius,  at  the  expense 
of  M.  Holconius  Rufus  and  M.  Holconius  Celer.  The  space  for  the 
spectators  (opening  to  the  S.)  consists  of  three  ranks  (ima,  media, 
and  summa  cavea) ;  the  first  contains  four  tiers  for  the  chairs  of 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  9 


130     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Temple  of  Isis. 

persons  of  rank,  the  second  twenty,  and  the  third  four.  Corridors 
and  staircases  led  to  the  different  parts  of  the  building.  It  is 
estimated  that  5000  spectators  could  be  accommodated.  Behind  the 
orchestra  is  the  long  and  narrow  stage,  in  front  of  which  is  an 
opening  in  the  ground  for  the  rising  and  falling  the  curtain.  The 
posterior  wall  of  the  stage,  once  adorned  with  statues,  is  provided 
with  three  doors,  according  to  the  rules  of  the  ancient  drama. 
Behind  these  was  the  dressing-room.  On  the  summit  of  the  outer 
wall  are  seen  the  stone  rings  for  the  poles  which  supported  an 
awning  in  sunny  weather.  Behind  the  theatre  is  a  square  reservoir, 
the  water  of  which  was  used  in  hot  weather  for  refreshing  the 
spectators  by  means  of  a  slight  sprinkling. 

The  adjacent  *  Small  Theatre  (Teatro  Coperto)  is  better  pre- 
served than  the  great.  An  inscription  records  that  it  was  roofed 
in  (theatrum  tectum).  Number  of  spectators  1500.  The  seats  are 
cut  out  in  such  a  way  that  the  feet  of  the  spectator  did  not  incon- 
venience the  person  sitting  on  the  tier  below  him.  The  building 
dates  from  about  B.C.  75.  The  marble  pavement  of  the  orchestra 
was,  according  to  an  inscription,  presented  by  M.  Oculatius ,  a 
duumvir. 

To  the  E.  of  the  small  theatre  passes  the  Strada  Stabiana 
(Cardo),  which  traverses  the  entire  city  from  N.  to  S.  Outside  the 
ancient  Stabian  Oate  the  beginning  of  a  street  of  tombs  has  been 
exhumed.  —  In  the  cross  street  in  Region  I.,  between  Insula?  1 
and  2,  at  No.  28,  is  an  atrium,  the  compluvium  of  which  was  cov- 
ered with  an  iron  grating  (restored")  as  a  protection  against  thieves. 
No.  2,  on  the  right  of  the  same  street,  was  a  tannery. 

We  continue  to  ascend  the  Stabian  Street.  On  the  left,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Street  of  the  Temple  of  Isis  (Via  Secunda),  Reg.  VIII, 
Ins.  8,  No.  25,  is  the  so-called  *Temple  of  iEsculapius,  the  smallest 
in  Pompeii ,  68  ft.  long,  22^2  ft-  broad.  The  anterior  court  con- 
tains an  archaic  altar  of  tufa ,  recalling  the  sarcophagus  of  Scipio 
in  the  Vatican.  The  name  of  the  temple  is  derived  from  a  terra- 
cotta statue  of  Jupiter  found  here  ,  which  was  at  first  taken  for  a 
statue  of  iEsculapius.  As  a  statue  of  Juno  and  a  bust  of  Minerva 
were  also  found ,  it  is  probable  that  these  three  deities  were  all 
worshipped  here  (as  in  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  on  the  Capitol  at 
Rome).  —  Farther  on  in  the  Street  of  the  Temple  of  Isis,  on  the 
left,  No.  28,  rises  the  *Temple  of  Isis,  which,  as  the  copy  of  the 
inscription  over  the  entrance  informs  us,  was  restored  after  the 
earthquake  of  63  by  N.  Popidius  Celsinus,  a  boy  six  years  of  age, 
at  his  own  expense,  who  in  recognition  of  this  service  was  re- 
ceived into  the  rank  of  the  decuriones.  The  court  is  surrounded  by 
a  porticus;  between  the  columns  are  several  altars,  and  an  an- 
cient aperture  for  the  reception  of  the  remains  of  sacrifices  now 
used  as  an  air-shaft  of  the  Sarno  tunnel.  On  the  left  is  a  small 
shrine,   the  so-called  Purgatorium,  in  which  ablutions  were  per- 


Str.  dell'  Abbondanza.       POMPEII.  8.  Route.     131 

formed;  a  staircase  here  descended  to  a  well ;  the  walls  are  taste- 
fully adorned  with  reliefs  in  stucco.  A  statuette  of  Isis,  now  in  the 
Naples  Museum  (p.  61),  was  found  in  the  portico  of  this  temple. 
The  chambers  adjoining  the  wall  on  the  left  were  occupied  hy  the 
priests.  Several  bodies  were  found  here ;  and  on  the  altar  were 
remains  of  sacrifices.  —  The  next  door  on  the  left,  No.  29,  leads 
into  the  so-called  Curia  Jsiaca,  a  court  surrounded  by  columns. 
Opposite  the  door  is  the  pedestal  of  a  statue ,  on  which  the  Dory- 
phorus,  now  in  the  Naples  Museum  (p.  62),  was  found.  Behind 
it  is  a  small  flight  of  steps,  which  was  perhaps  used  for  placing 
garlands  on  the  statue;  in  front  is  a  low  stone  plinth  or  table. 
The  place  was  a  palffistra  of  the  Oscan  period,  and  was  afterwards 
shortened. 

We  return  to  the  Stabian  Street  and  ascend  it  farther.  To  the 
left  is  a  small  sanctuary  of  the  Lares;  to  the  right,  No.  5  is  the  Casa 
del  Citarista,  named  after  the  Apollo  in  the  style  of  Pasiteles  found 
here  (p.  68).  This  is  one  of  the  largest  houses  at  Pompeii,  com- 
prising two  atria  and  three  peristyles. 

At  the  next  crossing  (88  ft.  above  the  sea-level)  the  Strada  dell' 
Abbondanza  (see  below)  diverges  on  the  left,  and  on  the  right,  the 
Strada  dei  Diadumeni  towards  the  Porta  del  Sarno,  which  is, 
however,  only  excavated  as  far  as  the  next  street.  At  the  corner  here 
is  the  buttress  of  an  aqueduct,  leaden  pipes  from  which  are  ob- 
served on  the  pavement  farther  on.  On  the  left,  Reg.  IX,  Ins.  1, 
No.  20,  is  the  Casa  dei  Diadumeni,  or  of  Epidius  Rufus,  with  a 
sloping  platform  in  front  of  the  facade,  and  a  handsome  atrium 
with  fourteen  columns.  Within  it  is  a  lararium  on  the  right,  with 
the  inscription  'Genio  Marci  nostri  et  Laribus  duo  Diadumeni  li- 
berti'.  At  the  back  is  a  garden,  to  the  left  of  which  is  the  vaulted 
kitchen.  —  The  atrium  of  the  House  of  Epidius  Sabinus,  No.  22 
(left),  contains  a  well-preserved  lararium;  pretty  view  of  two  peri- 
styles. —  Ascending  the  embankment  in  a  straight  direction,  we 
reach  a  cart-road  leading  to  the  Amphitheatre  (see  p.  142). 

We  now  enter  the  broad  Strada  dell'  Abbondanza,  which 
ascends  to  the  Forum,  and  was  closed  at  both  ends  by  means  of 
stone  pillars,  in  order  to  exclude  carriages.  About  the  middle 
is  a  fountain  with  a  head  and  cornucopia  of  Abundantia  (or  rather 
Concordia),  whence  the  name  of  the  street. 

L.,  Reg.  VIII,  Ins.  4,  No.  15,  *House  of  Cornelius  Rufus.  The 
atrium  contains  two  handsome  pedestals  for  tables,  and  a  bust  with 
the  inscription,  'C.  Cornelio  Rufo'.  The  peristyle  has  eighteen 
columns. 

R.,  No.  8,  is  the  principal  entrance  to  the  *Stabian  Thermae 
(closed  on  Sunday).  They  date  from  the  Oscan  period,  but  were 
afterwards  extended  and  re-decorated.  We  enter  a  spacious  court, 
flanked  by  pillars  on  two  sides ,  which  was  used  for  paltEstric  exer- 
cises.    Adjoining  this  to  the  right  is  the  Men's  Bath.    Off  a  vesti- 

9* 


132     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Stabian  Thermae. 

bule  to  the  left  was  the  cold  hath,  a  circular  building  with  four  re- 
cesses and  an  opening  in  the  dome  ;  in  front  were  the  undressing 
room  with  recesses  for  hanging  up  the  clothes,  and  another  entrance 
from  the  Stabian  Street.  Both  here  and  in  the  vestibule  the  roofs  are 
adorned  with  fine  reliefs  in  stucco.  Farther  to  the  left  are  the  tepid 
room  (tepidarium  ;  with  a  plunge-bath,  unusual  in  such  rooms)  and 
the  hot  room  (calidarium),  both  heated  by  means  of  double  walls 
and  floors.  —  In  the  right  corner  of  the  court  at  the  back  is  the 
Women's  Bath.  The  door  above  leads  into  a  vestibule  ,  into  which 
the  dressing-room  opens  on  the  left;  from  the  street  are  two 
separate  entrances.  Round  the  vaulted  hall  are  niches  for  clothes; 
in  the  corner  is  a  basin  enclosed  by  masonry.  Adjacent  are  the  warm 
bath  and  the  sudatory ;  at  one  end  is  a  marble  basin,  at  the  other 
a  fountain  for  warm  water,  with  a  pipe  connecting  it  with  the 
stoves  (visible  on  the  outside);  the  walls  are  double.  The  stoves 
were  between  the  men's  and  women's  baths.  In  the  wing  opposite, 
which  has  a  side-entrance  from  the  street,  are  four  baths  for  single 
bathers  on  the  left.  —  In  the  court,  opposite  the  entrance,  is  a 
herma  of  Mercury  resembling  that  in  the  Temple  of  Apollo.  On 
the  wall  on  the  left  are  stucco  ornaments  in  relief.  The  first 
room  to  the  left  served  for  undressing;  the  walls  still  bear  traces 
of  the  presses  for  hanging  up  the  clothes.  Next  to  this  is  a  shallow 
basin  used  for  washing  after  gymnastic  exercises ;  then  a  swim- 
ming-bath. The  following  room  was  also  originally  a  hath,  but  was 
afterwards  filled  up  and  used  for  other  purposes. 

L.,  Reg.  VIII,  Ins.  4,  No.  4,  the  House  ofHolconius,  with  hand- 
some peristyle,  rich  in  paintings,  but  faded.  In  the  oecus  (r.) 
Ariadne  and  Bacchus;  (1.)  Hermaphrodite;  in  the  room  to  the 
right,  Rape  of  Europa ;  in  the  room  to  the  left,  Achilles  in  Scyros, 
and  Judgment  of  Paris. 

A  few  paces  farther  the  Theatre  Street  diverges  to  the  right, 
leading  to  the  Forum  Triangulare  (p.  129),  while  we  follow  the 
Vico  del  Lupanahe  to  the  right. 

R.,  Reg.  VII,  Ins.  1,  No.  47,  *House  of  Siricus.  On  the  thresh- 
old the  inscription  'Salve  lucru(mf ;  to  the  same  proprietor  be- 
longed the  large  adjacent  bakehouse,  No.  46.  To  the  left  of  the 
atrium  are  two  rooms  with  good  paintings :  (1.)  Neptune  and  Apollo 
helping  to  build  the  walls  of  Troy ;  opposite,  Drunken  Hercules ; 
(r.)  Vulcan  presenting  Thetis  with  weapons  for  Achilles.  In  the 
centre  of  the  peristyle  is  a  pavilion  borne  by  four  green  columns. 
A  staircase  leads  to  the  left  to  the  other  part  of  the  house,  the 
principal  entrance  of  wich  (now  closed)  opened  from  the  Strada 
Stabiana,  another  peristyle,  and  an  atrium  containing  a  handsome 
marble  table. 

To  the  left  on  the  opposite  wall  are  large  snakes,  with  the  in- 
scription:    'Otiosis  locus  hie  non  est,   discede  morator'. 

To  the  left  at  the  corner  of  the  second  lane,   the  Vicolo  del 


Strada  Stabiana.  POMPEII.  a.  Route.     133 

Baloone  Pensile,  is  Reg.  VII,  Ins.  12,  No.  18,  the  Lupanare 
(closed)  ;  at  the  sides  five  sleeping-places  ;  in  front,  the  seat  of  the 
hostess.  The  bad  character  of  the  house  is  sufficiently  indicated  by 
the  paintings  and  inscriptions.  A  separate  entrance  from  the  street 
ascended  direct  to  the  upper  floor,  which  had  a  gallery  facing  two 
streets.  —  In  the  Vicolo  del  Balcone  Pensile,  on  the  right  (Reg.  VII, 
Ins.  12,  No.  28),  is  the  *House  with  the  Balcony  [Casa  del  Balcone 
Pensile;  opened  on  request).  The  atrium  contains  a  fountain  with 
a  marble  figure  on  the  right.  Three  rooms  of  the  projecting  upper 
floor  have  been  preserved  by  carefully  replacing  the  charred  wood- 
work by  new  beams  —  a  laborious  and  costly  undertaking. 

We  return;  to  the  Vico  del  Lupanare.  To  the  right,  at  the  first 
corner,  is  the  shoemaker's  shop  of  M.  Nonius  Campanus,  a  retired 
Praetorian,  assigned  to  him  by  his  former  centurion,  M.  Caesius 
Blandus,  the  landlord.  —  Nearly  opposite,  in  the  street  of  the 
Augustales  (p.  127),  is  the  Casa  delV  Orso,  named  from  a  mosaic  of 
a  wounded  bear  at  the  entrance. 

We  now  turn  to  the  right  and  after  a  few  yards  regain  the  Strada 
Stabiana,  which  we  ascend. 

To  the  right  (Reg.  IX,  Ins.  3,  No.  5),  the  *House  of  Marcus 
Lucretius,  once  richly  fitted  up,  though  with  questionable  taste 
(shown  at  the  request  of  the  visitor).  Behind  the  atrium  is  a  small 
garden ,  laid  out  in  terraces ,  with  a  fountain  and  a  number  of 
marble  figures.  The  best  of  the  paintings  are  preserved  at  Naples. 
This  is  one  of  the  few  houses  in  Pompeii  of  which  the  proprietor's 
name  is  known.  The  information  was  afforded  by  a  letter  painted 
on  the  wall  with  the  address  'M.  Lucretio  Flam.  Martis  decurioni 
Pompei'. 

The  whole  of  Insula  4  in  Region  IX  is  occupied  by  extensive 
Thermae,  which  were  in  course  of  construction  at  the  time  the 
city  was  overwhelmed.  In  the  large  court,  which  is  accessible 
on  three  sides ,  the  labourers  were  in  the  very  act  of  making 
the  gutter  and  laying  the  bases  for  the  columns  of  the  portico. 
The  large  swimming-basin,  to  the  left,  below  the  windows  of  the 
inner  rooms,  was  also  unfinished.  Instead  of  the  two  swimming- 
baths,  for  men  and  women,  usually  found  in  the  Thermae,  there  is 
here  only  this  one,  which  is,  however,  of  unwonted  size,  and  quite 
destitute  of  ornamentation.  Passing  through  an  antechamber  on 
the  left,  off  which  open  several  rooms  of  unknown  purpose,  we 
reach  the  dressing-room  (apodyterium),  containing  a  large  bath  of 
cold  water  (frigidarium).  Next  to  this  is  the  warm  bath  (tepida- 
rium),  beyond  which  is  the  hot  chamber  (calidarium),  with  three 
basins  for  hot  baths.  To  the  left  of  the  tepidarium  is  the  laconi- 
cum,  or  sudatory,  covered  with  a  vaulted  roof,  and  also  connected 
with  the  calidarium.  The  three  rooms  last  mentioned  appear  to 
have  been  heated  by  means  of  double  floors  and  walls,  traces  of 
which  are  still  visible  in  the  laconicum.  The  heating- furnaces  had 


134     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Strada  di  Nola. 

not  yet  been  built.  The  three  largest  rooms  are  provided  with 
large  windows,  another  divergence  from  the  ordinary  plan  of  the 
Thermae. 

The  next  crossing,  where  the  Strada  della  Fortuna  (p.  135) 
leads  to  the  left  and  the  Stkada  di  Nola  to  the  right,  may  be 
described  as  the  centre  of  the  city.  We  follow  the  latter  street 
which  leads  in  5  min.  to  the  gate  of  the  same  name,  one  of  the 
most  ancient  in  the  town.  Here  the  insula  4  and  5,  and  part  of 
6  and  7  in  Keg.  IX,  have  been  excavated  to  the  S.,  and  the  insula 
1  and  part  of  2,  Reg.  V,  to  the  N. 

To  the  left,  at  Reg.  V,  Ins.  1,  No.  7,  is  a  fine  capital  with  figures. 

The  houses  to  the  right,  in  the  insula  (IX,  5)  beyond  the  Thermae, 
contain  numerous  paintings,  most  of  which,  however,  are  of  little  ar- 
tistic merit.  The  first  house,  No.  2,  contains,  in  the  room  to  the  left 
of  the  tablinum,  two  scenes  from  the  story  of  Achilles  :  Hephaestus 
showing  Thetis  the  armour  he  had  made  for  Achilles,  and  Thetis  on 
a  Triton  taking  the  armour  to  her  son.  —  The  house  No.  6,  farther 
on,  which  contains  an  unusual  number  of  pictures,  is  also  remark- 
able for  its  peculiar  oblong  ground  -  plan.  In  the  roofed  room 
to  the  right,  in  front  of  the  peristyle  of  No.  9,  are  Egyptian  land- 
scapes with  pygmies.  The  house  No.  11  has  representations  of 
the  Muses  (to  the  right,  next  the  tablinum).  —  The  house  in  the 
S.E.  angle  of  this  insula,  No.  16,  seems  to  have  been  a  tavern, 
and  contains  a  room  with  paintings  of  the  grossest  description ;  in 
the  room  to  the  right  of  the  atrium,  the  Muses. 

Of  the  next  insula  (IX,  6),  to  the  E.  of  the  last,  only  one 
large  house  (Casa  del  Centenario)  has  been  excavated.  It  contains 
a  spacious  peristyle ,  two  covered  rooms  (one  with  decorations  on  a 
white  ground),  and  a  small  bath,  the  marble  flooring  of  which 
seems  to  have  been  removed  in  some  ancient  excavation.  Adjacent 
is  a  room  tastefully  decorated  with  paintings ,  inserted  in  the 
walls  at  a  later  period:  right,  Orestes,  Pylades,  and  Iphigenia; 
left,  Theseus  and  the  Minotaur;  centre,  Hermaphrodite  and  Sil- 
enus.    The  pavement  also  was  black. 

We  return  to  the  crossing  mentioned  above,  and  turning  to  the 
right,  follow  the  northern  extension  of  the  Strada  Stabiana.  At 
the  corner  to  the  left  are  a  Fountain  and  an  Altar  of  the  Lares ; 
adjacent  is  a  pillar  of  the  Aqueduct.  Of  the  houses  the  following 
are  noticeable :  —  L.,  Reg.  VI,  Ins.  14,  No.  20,  with  a  mutilated 
herma  erected  by  the  arcarius  (cashier)  Anteros  to  M.  Vesonius 
Primus ,  the  master  of  the  house ,  with  projecting  props  for  the 
support  of  wreaths.  The  peristyle  is  adorned  with  a  fresco  of  Orpheus, 
over  life-size.  • —  No.  22,  a  Fullonica,  or  fuller's  workshop.  The 
atrium  contains  a  handsome  impluvium  and  several  handsome  table- 
supports.  In  the  room  at  the  back  are  three  basins  (comp.  p.  137), 
and  on  the  wall  are  paintings  of  a  banquet  of  fullers  (fullones)  and 
a  scene  in  a  court  of  law.  —  Opposite,  to  the  right,  Reg.  V,  Ins.  1, 


Str.  della  Fortuna.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.      135 

No.  26,  the  house  of  L.  Caecilius  Jucundus,  the  banker,  where  the 
receipts  now  preserved  in  the  Museo  Nazionale  (p.  71)  were  discov- 
ered. In  the  atrium  stood  a  herma  erected  to  the  banker  by  his 
freedman  Felix;  the  pedestal,  with  the  inscription  lOenio  L(uci) 
nostri  Felix  l(ibertusf  is  still  here,  but  the  bronze  bust  has  been 
removed  to  the  Museo  (p.  67).  In  the  atrium,  to  the  left,  is  the 
lower  part  of  the  chapel  of  the  Lares,  with  a  relief  representing  the 
N.  side  of  the  Forum.  The  beautiful  paintings  in  the  tablinum 
are  unfortunately  somewhat  faded.  —  Farther  on,  No.  18 ;  the  last 
room  to  the  left  of  the  peristyle  is  adorned  with  paintings  and 
Greek  epigrams  (to  the  left,  Pan  and  Cupid  wrestling). 

We  again  return  to  the  crossing  mentioned  on  p.  134  and  thence 
follow  the  Strada  della  Fobtuna  (Decumanus  Major). 

L.,  at  the  first  corner,  Reg.  VIII,  Ins.  4,  No.  48,  House  of  the 
Chase  ('C.  della  Caccia')-  Beyond  the  finely-painted  tablinum  we 
enter  the  peristyle  ;  opposite,  wild  beast  fights,  whence  the  name  of 
the  house  ;  on  the  right,  landscapes,  with  Polyphemus  and  Galatea. 

L.  No.  51 ,  House  of  Ariadne  ('C.  di  Arianna'),  extending  to 
the  Street  of  the  Augustales,  towards  which  it  has  its  atrium.  From 
the  Strada  della  Fortuna  (capital  with  figures  at  the  entrance)  we 
first  enter  the  garden;  in  the  centre  is  the  peristyle  with  sixteen 
columns  with  variegated  capitals.  In  the  centre  is  a  fountain.  A 
room  to  the  right  contains  fine  wall-paintings. 

L.  No.  56,  House  of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Tuscany  (PI.  2),  small, 
with  mosaic  fountain. 

L.  No.  57,  Casa  dei  Capitelli  Figurati,  named  after  the  capitals 
of  the  entrance-pillars ,  adorned  with  figures  of  Bacchantes  and 
Fauns.  Tasteful  atrium  and  peristyle.  From  the  peristyle,  in 
which  is  a  pavilion  with  six  columns  and  a  sun-dial,  we  enter  a 
sugar-bakehouse,  the  use  of  which  has  been  conjectured  from  the 
nature  of  the  objects  found  in  it.     The  oven  is  still  in  existence. 

L.,  No.  59,  Casa  della  Pareta  Nera,  so  called  from  the  remarkably 
beautiful  black  *Wall  in  the  exedra,  behind  the  peristyle. 

Opposite,  on  the  right,  Keg.  VI,  Ins.  12,  Nos.  2-5,  the 
*House  of  the  Faun,  so  named  from  the  statuette  of  a  dancing 
Faun  found  here  (p.  67).  The  house  occupies  a  whole  insula,  and  is 
the  most  sumptuous  in  Pompeii,  262  ft.  long  and  125  ft.  broad. 
The  style  of  its  decoration  proves  it  to  date  from  the  republican  era 
(2nd  cent.  B.C.).  It  contained  beautiful  mosaics ,  but  hardly  any 
mural  paintings.  The  stucco  on  the  walls  is  an  imitation  of  in- 
crustation in  coloured  marble  (comp.  p.  xliv).  On  the  pavement  in 
front  of  the  house  is  the  greeting  'Have'.  It  possesses  two  entrances 
and  two  atria.  The  left  atrium  (35  ft.  by  38  ft.)  is  in  the  Tuscan 
style ,  i.  e.  the  roof  was  borne  by  cross-beams  without  vertical 
support.  Near  the  impluvium  the  statuette  of  the  Faun  was  found. 
The  simpler  atrium  on  the  right  is  an  atrium  tetrastylum,  i.  e.  the 
roof-beams  surrounding  the  impluvium  were  borne  by  four  columns. 


136     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Str.  delle  Terme. 

It  was  used  as  a  vestibule  to  the  offices  on  the  right :  bath,  kitchen, 
etc.  The  peristyle  contained  twenty-eight  Ionic  columns  of  tufa 
coated  with  stucco.  At  the  back  of  the  exedra,  beside  the  red 
columns,  was  found  the  celebrated  mosaic  of  the  Battle  of  Alexander 
(p.  65).    At  the  back  is  a  garden  with  a  Doric  portico. 

A  few  paces  farther  on,  the  Forum  Street  leads  to  the  left,  the 
Mercury  Street  (p.  137)  to  the  right. 

Reg.  VII,  Ins.  4,  No.  1,  at  the  corner  of  the  Forum  Street, 
is  the  Temple  of  Fortuna ,  erected  according  to  the  inscription  by 
M.  Tullius  during  the  reign  of  Augustus.  (The  inscription  is  upon 
the  architrave  of  the  aedicula  in  the  rear,  now  lying  in  the  temple. J 
It  is  approached  by  thirteen  steps.  The  entrance  was  at  the  top  of 
the  first  flight  of  steps,  and  was  separated  from  the  altar  which  stood 
there  by  a  railing.  — ■  Hence  to  the  Forum,  see  p.  127. 

From  this  point  we  follow  the  continuation  of  the  Strada  della 
Fortuna,  called  Strada  delle  Teems. 

On  the  left,  is  the  entrance  to  the  *  Thermae  (Reg.  VII,  Ins.  5; 
'Terme  del  Foro'),  which  occupy  a  whole  insula.  The  exterior  was 
surrounded  by  shops,  which  had  no  connection  with  the  interior.  Two 
of  the  six  entrances  admit  to  an  elegant  irregular  court,  with  arcades 
and  columns.  Thence,  or  direct  from  the  street  (No.  2),  we  enter 
the  chamber  for  undressing  (apodyterium) ;  surrounded  by  benches. 
Beyond  this  is  the  cold  bath  (frigidarium) ;  the  vault  above  was 
provided  with  a  glass  window.  The  water  gushed  forth  from  a  copper 
mouth-piece  opposite  the  entrance  and  was  let  off  below  the  entrance. 
To  the  right  of  the  undressing  room  is  the  warm  bath  (tepidarium). 
A  frieze  running  round  it  is  furnished  with  niches  for  depositing 
clothes  and  articles  of  the  toilet,  and  is  supported  by  figures  of 
Atlas  in  terracotta.  The  vaulting  was  richly  decorated  with  stucco 
figures  in  relief.  This  chamber  was  heated  by  means  of  the  large 
brazier  of  bronze  (to  the  left),  which,  with  three  bronze  benches,  was 
presented,  according  to  the  inscription,  by  M.  Nigidius  Vaccula,  to 
whose  name  (vacca  =  cow)  the  cow  on  the  brazier  and  the  cows'  heads 
on  the  benches  are  references.  Adjacent  is  the  hot-air  bath  (cali- 
darium  or  sudatorium).  A  niche  at  the  end  contains  a  marble 
basin  for  washing  the  hands  and  face  with  cold  water ;  it  bears  an 
inscription  recording  that  it  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  5250  sesterces 
(39i.  sterling).  At  the  other  end  is  the  basin  for  warm  baths.  The 
apartment  has  double  walls  and  floor,  between  which  the  steam 
diffused  itself.  From  the  undressing-room  we  reach  the  furnace, 
and  then  a  small  court  to  the  left,  with  two  columns,  one  of  which 
probably  bore  a  sun-dial.  —  No.  8,  Strada  delle  Terme,  is  the  Wo- 
men's Bath,  simpler  than  the  men's ;  the  tepidarium  here  also  had 
double  walls  and  floor. 

Nearly  opposite  to  the  Thermae,  Reg.  VI,  Ins.  8,  No.  5  is  the 
*  House  of  the  Tragic  Poet,  one  of  the  most  elegant  in  Pompeii, 
so  called  from  two  representations  found  in  the  tablinum a  poet 


Str.  delle  Terme.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.     137 

reading  (more  probably  Admetus  and  Alcestis),  and  a  mosaic  of  a 
theatrical  rehearsal  (which,  together  with  beautiful  paintings  of  sub- 
jects from  the  Iliad ,  are  now  in  the  museum  at  Naples).  This  is 
represented  by  Bulwer  Lytton  in  his  'Last  Days  of  Pompeii'  (1834) 
as  the  dwelling  of  Glaucus.  On  the  threshold  was  a  dog  in  mo- 
saic, with  the  inscription  'Cave  Canem',  now  at  Naples  (p.  58). 
The  peristyle  of  seven  columns  is  closed  at  the  back  by  a  wall,  on 
which  is  a  small  shrine  of  the  Lares.  In  the  triclinium  on  the 
right,  Youth  and  maiden  looking  at  a  nest  containing  Cupids 
(above,  Marsyas  playing  the  flute  and  Olympus),  Theseus  aban- 
doning Ariadne,  and  Diana  with  Orion  (?).  On  the  side-panels  are 
personifications  of  the  seasons. 

Reg.  VI,  Ins.  6,  No.  1,  beyond  the  cross-street,  on  the  right,  is 
the  House  of  Pansa  (Domus  Cn.  Allei  Nigidi  Mai),  one  of  the 
largest  in  Pompeii,  occupying  a  whole  insula,  319  ft.  long  and 
124  ft.  broad.  It  comprises  sixteen  shops  and  dwellings ,  facing 
two  of  the  streets.  On  the  threshold  was  found  a  mosaic  with 
the  greeting  'Salve'.  This  house  affords  a  normal  specimen  of  a 
palatial  residence  of  the  imperial  epoch ,  complete  in  all  its 
appointments :  atrium,  tablinum ,  peristyle ,  oecus  (to  the  left, 
adjacent,  the  kitchen  with  the  snakes),  and  lastly  the  garden  or 
xystus.  Comp.  Groundplan,  p.  120. 

At  the  picturesque  corner  opposite,  Reg.  VI ,  Ins.  3  ,  No.  20, 
is  a  tavern,  the  street  to  the  left  of  which  leads  to  the  Porta  di 
Ercolano  (p.  140). 

We  return  to  the  Temple  of  Fortuna,  and,  turning  to  the  left, 
follow  the  Stbada  di  Meucueio,  at  the  entrance  to  which  rises  a 
Brick  Arch,  on  which  the  pipes  of  a  water-conduit  are  visible.  It 
was  once  surmounted  by  the  bronze  statue  of  Caligula,  mentioned 
at  p.  69. 

L.,  Reg.  VI,  Ins.  8,  No.  14,  is  a  small  Temple  of  the  Lares. 

R.  Reg.  VI,  Ins.  10,  No.  7,  House  of  the  Anchor,  named  after 
an  anchor  in  mosaic  on  the  threshold.  By  the  tablinum  we  descend 
to  a  peristyle,  the  pavement  of  which  was  higher  than  the  garden. 
The  latter,  to  which  a  staircase  descends,  was  on  the  level  of  the 
Strada  della  Fortuna,  and  was  surrounded  by  a  cryptoporticus  and 
numerous  niches  containing  altars. 

R.,  No.  6,  House  of  Pomponius,  with  an  oil-mill  to  the  right  of 
the  entrance. 

L.  No.  20,  the  Fullonica,  or  fuller's  establishment.  The  square 
pillars  (on  one  of  which  were  frescoes  alluding  to  the  fuller's  art, 
now  in  Naples)  supported  a  gallery  (Solarium)  for  drying  the 
cloth.  Around  are  dwelling-rooms  and  bed-chambers,  as  well  as 
rooms  for  the  workmen.  To  the  right  is  the  kitchen,  with  an 
oven;  and  behind  are  four  basins  on  different  levels,  destined  for 
washing  the  cloths,  which  were  afterwards  stamped  with  the  feet 
in  the  small  stands  to  the  right.    One  egress  leads  to  the  Strada 


138     Route  8.  POMPEII.  Str.  di  Mercurio. 

della  Fullonica.    Adjacent  to  these  premises,  and  connected  with 
them  by  a  door,  was  the  hexastyle  atrium,  No.  21. 

L.  No.  22,  House  of  the  Large  Fountain,  at  the  end  of  which 
is  a  mosaic  *Fountain. 

L.,  No.  23  ,  House  of  the  Small  Fountain  (della  piccola  fon- 
tana) ;  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  a  staircase  ascends  to  the  2nd 
floor.  At  the  end  of  the  house  is  a  fountain  of  gaily  coloured  mo- 
saic, adorned  with  a  small  and  graceful  bronze  :  Boy  with  a  goose  (a 
copy,  original  at  Naples).  The  walls  are  decorated  with  landscapes, 
among  which  is  a  *Harbour  on  the  left. 

R.,  No.  1,  a  Tavern;  towards  the  street  is  a  table  covered  with 
marble  and  a  fire-place.  A  door  leads  from  the  shop  to  the  left 
into  a  small  room  adorned  with  various  allusions  to  drinking : 
a  waggon  with  a  wine-skin,  players  and  drinkers,  eatables,  etc. 
In  the  corner  to  the  left  a  soldier  is  being  served ;  above  him  is 
scribbled :  'da  fridam  pusillum'  (pour  in  some  fresh  water).  To 
the  right  two  other  chambers;  the  second  contains  paintings  of 
Polyphemus  and  Galatea,  and  Venus  fishing.  —  In  front  of  the  ta- 
vern is  a  fountain  with  a  head  of  Mercury,  after  which  the  street 
has  been  named. 

From  the  corner  of  the  Vicolo  di  Mercurio  a  digression  may  be 
made  in  the  adjacent  street  to  the  left  to  the  House  of  the  Labyrinth 
(beyond  the  first  side-street,  immediately  to  the  left),  a  roomy 
dwelling  with  two  atria;  principal  entrance,  Reg.  VI,  Ins.  11, 
No.  10,  second  door  No.  9.  In  the  passage  leading  to  the  peri- 
style, immediately  to  the  left  and  opening  on  the  latter,  is  a 
window  of  terracotta  with  six  small  apertures,  resembling  pigeon- 
holes. In  the  room  beyond  the  peristyle,  to  the  left,  a  mosaic 
pavement :  Theseus  killing  the  Minotaur  in  the  Labyrinth.  The  left 
half  of  the  house  was  destined  for  the  menage  ;  it  contains  a  bake- 
house and  adjoining  it  a  bath  with  three  rooms. 

Farther  on  in  the  Strada  di  Mercurio,  Nos.  7  and  6  (Reg.  VI, 
Ins.  9)  on  the  left,  are  the  House  of  Castor  and  Pollux  (Domus 
Cn.  Caetroni  Eutychi),  consisting  of  two  distinct  houses ,  but 
connected.  No.  7  is  simple  and  homely.  It  is  connected  with  the 
neighbouring  house  by  a  large  peristyle,  adorned  with  paintings 
all  round.  The  restored  roof  affords  an  idea  of  the  original  lighting 
of  the  house.  In  the  peristyle  is  a  basin  for  a  fountain ;  beyond 
it  is  a  hall.  On  the  right  wall  of  the  passage  leading  to  the  Corin- 
thian atrium  of  the  other  house  is  the  Venus  Pompeiana.  Beyond 
the  atrium  are  the  tablinum  and  a  garden  with  lararium.  Fine 
*Frescoes  in  the  room  to  the  right  of  the  tablinum :  to  the  left, 
Birth  of  Adonis;  on  the  entrance- wall ,  Hippolytus  and  Phaedra; 
in  an  apartment  to  the  left  of  the  garden,  Apollo  and  Daphne. 

Farther  on,  Nos.  5-3,  House  of  the  Centaur,  two  different  houses, 
connected  by  a  door.  No.  3  has  a  fine  bed-room  (to  the  right), 
adorned  with  imitation  marble. 


Str.  di  Sallustio.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.      139 

Adjacent,  No.  2,  *House  of  Meleager.  Within  the  doorway,  to 
the  right ,  Mercury  handing  a  purse  to  Fortuna.  The  atrium  con- 
tains a  marble  table,  borne  by  griffins ;  beneath,  an  arrangement  for 
keeping  viands  cool  by  means  of  water.  Contrary  to  the  usual  ar- 
rangement, the  peristyle  does  not  lie  behind,  but  to  the  left  of 
the  atrium.  The  porticus  is  adorned  by  a  graceful  fountain. 
Adjoining  the  peristyle  at  the  back  is  an  cecus,  enclosed  on 
three  sides  by  Corinthian  columns.  Among  the  frescoes,  to  the  right, 
a  young  Satyr  startling  a  Bacchante  with  a  snake.  To  the  left  of  the 
OBCus  is  a  hall  with  frescoes :  on  the  transverse  wall  to  the  left,  the 
Judgment  of  Paris. 

We  return  along  the  opposite  side  of  the  street.  Reg.  VI,  Ins.  7, 
No.  23,  House  of  Apollo  (Domus  A.  Herenulei  Communis),  named 
from  the  representations  of  that  god  which  were  found  here. 
Behind  the  gaily-painted  *Tablinum,  a  fountain  in  a  grotesque  style. 
At  the  end  of  the  garden,  to  the  right,  is  a  handsome  sleeping- 
chamber  (for  two  beds) ;  on  the  external  wall  is  a  landscape  with 
a  Bacchanalian,  and  a  mosaic  of  Achilles  in  Scyros ;  among  the 
weapons  which  Ulysses  offers  him  is  a  shield,  on  which  Achilles 
and  Chiron  are  represented.  In  the  interior  are  representations  of 
Apollo  and  Marsyas  and  other  mythological  subjects. 

No.  18,  House  of  the  Wounded  Adonis  (Domus  M.  Asellini). 
In  the  xystus  ,  to  the  right,  a  fresco  ,  above  life-size  ,  of  *Adonis 
wounded,  tended  and  bewailed  by  Venus  and  Cupids ;  at  the  sides, 
Achilles  and  Chiron.  In  a*Room  to  the  left,  'Toilet  of  the  Herma- 
phrodite' . 

We  here  turn  to  the  right  and  following  the  W.  branch  of  the 
Vicolo  di  Mercurio,  soon  reach  the  Strada  di  Sallustio,  which 
leads  to  the  Porta  diErcolano.  This  was  a  business-street  and  con- 
tained few  handsome  houses.  Opposite  the  Vicolo  is  a  house  fitted 
up  as  a  Library,  containing  an  collection  of  archaeological  works, 
and  for  the  reception  of  students  supported  by  government  (Scuola 
Archeologica). 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  Reg.  VI,  Ins.  2,  No.  4,  is  the  House 
of  Sallust  (Domus  A.  Coss.  Libani),  with  the  atrium  and  adjacent 
rooms  lined  with  stucco  painted  to  imitate  marble.  Behind  the  tab- 
linum  is  a  small  irregularly-shaped  garden,  with  a  triclinium  in  an 
arbour  in  the  corner.  Instead  of  a  peristyle,  this  house  contains 
a  small  court  enclosed  by  pillars,  to  the  right  of  the  atrium,  and 
styled,  though  without  authority,  the  Venereum.  On  the  wall  oppo- 
site, *Actason  converted  into  a  stag,  and  torn  to  pieces  by  his  own 
dogs ;  to  the  left,  Europa  and  the  bull ;  to  the  right,  Phrixus  and 
Helle.    In  the  small  room  to  the  right,  Venus  and  Mars. 

No.  6  is  a  Bakehouse,  with  ovens  and  mills.  The  latter  were 
turned  by  asses  or  slaves.  —  At  the  corner  of  the  street  is  a  foun- 
tain, and  behind  it  a  building  erroneously  described  as  a  reservoir 
of  the  aqueduct. 


140     Route  8.  .POMPEII.  Street  of  Tombs. 

Some  of  the  houses  on  the  left,  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  occu- 
pied by  the  town ,  had  several  stories ,  and  large  vaults,  used  as 
magazines.  From  this  point  and  from  the  following  houses  a  charm- 
ing glimpse  is  obtained  of  the  bay  with  the  island  of  Capri ;  near 
the  land  is  the  picturesque  rocky  islet  of  Revigliano  ;  to  the  right 
is  Torre  Annunziata. 

A  large,  open  hall  to  the  right,  Reg.  VI,  Ins.  1,  No.  13,  is 
called,  without  authority,  a  Custom  House;  its  real  character  is 
unknown.  —  No.  10,  a  little  farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the 
House  of  the  Surgeon ,  so  called  from  a  considerable  number  of 
surgical  instruments  found  here.  It  is  remarkable  for  its  massive 
construction  of  limestone  blocks  from  the  river  Sarno ,  and  it  is 
probably  the  most  ancient  house  in  the  town.  "We  next  reach 
No.  7,  on  the  right,  the  extensive  House  of  the  Vestals. 

No.  3,  on  the  left,  opposite,  is  a  large  Tavern,  with  a  phallus 
towards  the  street,  intended  to  avert  the  evil  eye.  It  contains  two 
wine-tables,  and  has  an  entrance  for  waggons.  —  No.  2,  on  the 
right,  is  another  tavern. 

The  Porta  di  Ercolano  or  Herculanean  Qate  (135  ft.  above 
the  sea-level)  is  believed  to  date  from  the  time  of  Augustus.  It 
consists  of  three  series  of  arches  ,  of  which  the  central  and  largest 
.has  fallen  in.  The  depth  of  the  passage  is  59  ft.  To  the  right  is 
the  approach  to  the  *Town  Wall,  which  may  be  visited  for  the 
sake  of  the  view.  The  wall  (p.  122)  consists  of  an  outer  and  inner 
wall,  the  intervening  space  being  filled  with  earth.  The  height  of 
the  external  wall  varies  according  to  the  ground  from  25  to  33  ft., 
the  internal  being  uniformly  8  ft.  higher.  Originally  built  of  large 
blocks  of  tufa  and  limestone,  it  appears  to  have  been  partly  de- 
stroyed in  the  peaceful  period  of  the  second  century  B.C.,  and  to 
have  been  afterwards  repaired  chiefly  with  concrete  (small  pieces 
of  lava  consolidated  with  cement).  At  the  same  time  it  was 
strengthened  with  towers.  The  difference  between  these  kinds  of 
building  will  be  observed  near  this  gate.  —  (From  this  point  on- 
wards, comp.  the  supplementary  part  of  the  Plan  at  p.  120.) 

The  suburb  outside  this  gate  is  perhaps  the  Pagus  Augustus 
Felix,  named  thus  in  honour  of  Augustus.  It  consisted  chiefly  of  one 
main  street,  which  has  been  partly  excavated.  This  is  the  so-called 
*Street  of  the  Tombs  (Strada  deiSepolcri),  part  of  the  great  military 
road  from  Capua  to  Naples,  Herculaneum,  Pompeii,  and  Reggio.  The 
ancient  Roman  custom  of  burying  the  dead  by  the  side  of  a  high-road 
iswell  known.  It  has  been  ascertained  that  rows  of  graves,  similar 
to  those  discovered  here,  exist  beyond  other  gates  also  (p.  130). 
The  Street  of  Tombs  is  in  point  of  scenery  the  most  picturesque 
part  of  the  town. 

On  the  right,  No.  1,  is  a  large  tomb,  apparently  in  the  form  of 
an  altar,  the  upper  part  of  which  is  destroyed ;  in  the  tomb-cavity 
beneath  several  cinerary  urns  were  found. 


Street  of  Tombs.  POMPEII.  8.  Route.     141 

On  the  left,  No.  1,  is  the  Tomb  of  Cerrinius,  a  recess  with  seats. 
It  has  been  said  that  this  was  a  sentry-box,  and  that  here  was  found 
the  skeleton  of  a  sentinel  who  died  at  his  post;  but  this  is  a  mere 
fiction,  like  many  other  Pompeian  anecdotes. 

L.  No.  2,  a  semicircular  seat  with  the  pedestal  of  a  statue  of 
the  duumvir  A.  Veins. 

L.  No.  3,  Tomb  of  M.  Porcius,  probably  the  builder  of  the  am- 
phitheatre and  the  small  theatre ;  according  to  the  inscription  the 
town-council  granted  him  a  piece  of  ground  25  ft.  square  for  a  grave. 

L.  No.  4,  *Tomb  of  Mamia;  in  front  a  seat  like  the  above,  with 
the  inscription :  'Mamiae  Publii  filiae  sacerdoti  publicae  locus  se- 
pulturae  datus  decurionum  decreto' .  At  the  back,  enclosed  by  a  low 
wall,  is  the  tomb,  with  niches  for  cinerary  urns.  The  view  hence  of 
the  bay  and  the  mountains  of  Castellammare  is  singularly  beautiful. 
—  On  a  street  diverging  to  the  right,  No.  2,  is  the  ruinous  Tomb  of 
Terentius. 

Farther  on,  on  the  right,  No.  6,  is  the  Tomb  of  the  Oarlands, 
so  called  from  its  decorations;  name  unknown.  R.  No.  9,  an  open 
recess  and  seat. 

A  street,  now  built  up,  formerly  diverged  here  to  the  left.  On 
the  corner  is  an  inscription  (copy)  to  the  effect  that  Suedius  Clemens, 
the  tribune,  on  behalf  of  Vespasian,  restored  to  the  town  of  Pompeii 
certain  common  land  that  had  been  illegally  occupied  by  private 
persons.  —  Then,  Nos.  5  and  6,  the  so-called  Villa  of  Cicero,  again 
covered  up.  The  buttresses  still  visible  belong  to  a  colonnade  which 
ran  parallel  with  the  street. 

R.  Nos.  10  and  11,  two  shops.  No.  12,  House  of  the  Mosaic 
Columns,  very  dilapidated,  probably  an  inn.  The  entrance  leads 
first  into  a  garden,  in  which  stood  a  pavilion  supported  by  four  mo- 
saic columns  (now  at  Naples,  p.  58).  Behind  is  a  fountain-recess 
inlaid  with  mosaic ;  to  the  left  is  a  court  with  a  private  chapel  and 
altar.    Two  staircases  ascend  to  the  upper  floor. 

On  the  left,  beyond  the  villa  of  Cicero,  several  handsome  mon- 
uments will  be  observed :  No.  16,  that  of  Servilia.  No.  17,  that  of 
Scaurus,  with  reliefs  in  stucco,  representing  gladiatorial  combats, 
but  in  a  very  ruinous  condition.  The  columbarium  contains  niches 
for  the  urns. 

On  the  right  is  a  long  arcade,  at  the  back  of  which  there  were 
shops.  From  the  skeleton  of  a  mule  found  here  it  has  been 
suggested  that  this  was  a  resort  of  peasants  on  market-days.  — 
To  the  right,  in  the  street  which  is  not  yet  excavated,  are  several 
ancient  tombs  of  limestone,  belonging  to  the  remote  Oscan  period, 
when  the  dead  were  buried  instead  of  being  burned,  and  when 
painted  vessels  of  terracotta  were  interred  with  them. 

On  the  right  are  several  uncompleted  tombs. 

L.  No.  18,  a  circular  monument,  name  unknown. 

L.  No.  20,  *Tomb  of  the  Augustalis  Calventius  Quintus ;  below 


142      Route  8.  POMPEII.  Street  of  Tombs. 

the  inscription  is  represented  the  bisellium  (seat  of  honour)  ac- 
corded him  in  recognition  of  his  liberality. 

R.  No.  36,  *Tomb  of  M.  Alleius  Luccius  Libella  and  his  son, 
of  travertine,  and  well-preserved ,  with  inscriptions. 

L.  No.  22,  *Tomb  of  Naevoleia  Tyche,  with  chamber  for  ciner- 
ary urns.  The  deceased  was  a  freedwoman ,  who ,  according  to 
the  inscription,  destined  this  tomb  for  herself  and  0.  Munatius 
Faustus,  chief  official  of  this  quarter  of  the  town,  and  for  their 
freedmen.  A  relief  below  refers  to  the  consecration  of  the  tomb; 
on  the  left  side  is  the  bisellium,  or  magisterial  seat  of  Munatius, 
on  the  right  a  vessel  entering  the  harbour,  a  symbol  of  human  life. 
No.  23  was  a  Triclinium  for  banquets  in  honour  of  the  dead. 

On  the  hill  to  the  right  are  several  tombs,  some  of  them  in  a 
very  ruinous  condition.  Among  these  are:  No.  41,  the  tomb  of 
IV.  Velasius  Gratus,  a  boy  of  twelve  years,  a  small  niche  with  one 
of  the  head-shaped  tombstones  peculiar  to  Pompeii ;  No.  40,  to  the 
right,  a  similar  tomb  with  no  name ;  farther  on,  tombs  erected  by 
the  freedman  M.  Arrius  Diomedes  to  himself  (No.  42),  his  family, 
and  his  former  mistress  Arria  (No.  43).  The  fasces  or  bundles  of 
rods  in  stucco-relief,  on  the  tomb  of  Diomedes  (No.  42),  indicate 
his  dignity  as  a  magistrate  of  the  Pagus  Augustus  Felix  (p.  140). 

No.  24,  *  Villa  of  Diomedes,  arbitrarily  so  called  from  the 
above-mentioned  tomb.  The  arrangement  of  this ,  like  that  of 
other  villas ,  differs  considerably  from  that  of  the  urban  dwellings. 
A  flight  of  steps  with  two  columns  leads  at  once  to  the  peristyle, 
whence  the  bath  is  entered  to  the  left.  Opposite  is  a  terrace,  with 
rooms  ,  which  rise  above  the  lower  portion  of  the  house.  The 
garden ,  107  ft.  square  ,  with  a  basin  for  a  fountain  and  a  pavilion 
supported  by  six  columns  in  the  centre ,  is  surrounded  by  a 
colonnade.  From  the  terrace  a  staircase  descends  to  the  left 
(another,  from  the  entrance  from  the  street,  to  the  right).  Below 
this  colonnade ,  on  three  sides,  lies  a  vaulted  cellar  lighted  by 
small  apertures  above ,  and  approached  by  staircases  descend- 
ing at  each  end.  Eighteen  bodies  of  women  and  children,  who 
had  provided  themselves  with  food,  and  sought  protection  in 
this  vault  against  the  eruption,  were  found  here.  But  impalpable 
ashes  penetrated  through  the  openings  into  the  interior,  and 
too  late  the  ill-fated  party  endeavoured  to  escape.  They  were 
found  with  their  heads  wrapped  up,  half  buried  by  the  ashes.  The 
impression  made  on  the  ashes  by  a  girl's  breast  is  now  in  the 
museum  at  Naples.  The  probable  proprietor  of  the  house  was 
found  near  the  garden-door  (now  walled  up),  with  the  key  in 
Ms  hand;   beside  him  was  a  slave  with  money  and  valuables. 


The  *Amphitheatre ,  situated  at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  town, 
lies  detached  from  the  other  ruins  (coupon  of  admission  ticket 
must  be  shown  here).     Those  who  do  not  reserve  it  for  the  last, 


CASTELLAMMARE.  9.  Route.     143 

will  And  it  most  convenient  to  visit  the  amphitheatre  immediately 
after  the  Stabian  Thermae  (p.  131),  whence  it  may  be  reached  via 
the  Strada  dei  Diadumeni  in  about  8  minutes.  Outwardly  the  build- 
ing looks  somewhat  insignificant,  as  a  great  part  of  it,  as  high  as  the 
second  story,  was  excavated  in  the  earth  for  the  purpose  of  simplifying 
the  construction.  Round  the  exterior  runs  an  uncovered  gallery, 
to  which  stairs  ascend  for  the  use  of  the  spectators  in  the  upper 
places.  The  principal  entrance  descends  considerably.  Whole  length 
148,  width  114  yds. ;  number  of  spectators  20,000.  Three  different 
series  of  seats  are  distinguished,  the  first  with  five,  the  second 
with  twelve,  and  the  third  with  eighteen  tiers ;  above  these  also 
ran  a  gallery.  The  seats  are  cut  out  in  the  same  manner  as  in 
the  small  theatre.  The  building  was  begun  in  B.C.  70,  and  after- 
wards continued  at  intervals.  For  several  decades  before  the  year  79 
the  amphitheatre  had  not  been  used,  so  that  the  story  of  the  people 
having  been  surprised  by  the  eruption  while  witnessing  a  gladiator 
combat  here  is  a  pure  myth. 

On  leaving  the  Amphitheatre  we  may  return  by  the  high-road  to 
the  railway-station  of  Pompeii  in  ]/4  nr'i  or  proceed  to  the  station  of  Torre 
Annunziata  (p.  118),  in  3/4  hr.  —  Or  we  may  reach  the  station  of  Valle 
di  Pompei  (p.  160)  in  about  6  min.  in  the  opposite  direction.  On  this 
way  there  are  several  tombs  (in  the  field  beyond  the  second  house),  which 
lay  on  the  ancient  road  from  Pompeii  to  Nuceria  (closed  at  present). 

9.  Castellammare,  Sorrento,  and  Capri. 

Comp.  the  Map. 

Railway  from  Naples  to  Castellammare,  17  M.,  in  3/t-l  hr. ;  fares  2  fr.  25, 
1  fr.  45  c. ;  ten  (Sun.  sixteen)  trains  daily.  From  Caserta  to  Castellammare, 
see  p.  10.  —  Carriage  from  Castellammare  to  Sorrento,  10  M.,  in  l'/ahr. ; 
tariff,  see  p.  144.  A  seat  ('un  posto',  l-l'/2  fr.)  may  easily  be  obtained  by  a 
single  traveller  in  one  of  the  numerous  carriages  frequenting  this  road. 

Mail  Steamboat  from  Naples  across  the  bay  to  Vico  Eqvense,  Meta, 
and  Sorrento  in  l3/4  hr.  (6  fr.,  5  fr.)  and  thence  via  Massa  to  Capri ;  comp. 
p.  152. 

Those  whose  time  is  limited  should  make  little  stay  at  Castellammare, 
in  order  to  arrive  at  Sorrento  early  enough  for  an  excursion  to  the  Deserto 
(p.  151),  or  other  interesting  point  in  the  environs.  The  night  should  be  spent 
at  Sorrento,  and  Capri  visited  next  day;  Naples  may  then  be  regained  on  the 
third ,  or ,  if  necessary ,  on  the  evening  of  the  second  day.  —  This  route 
may  also  be  combined  with  the  following  (p.  160).  The  steamboat  trip 
across  the  Bay  of  Naples  is  so  beautiful  in  fine  weather  that  it  should  be 
made  once  at  least. 

The  Castellammare  train  follows  the  main  line  to  Salerno  and 
Metaponto  as  far  as  Torre  Annunziata,  Stazione  Centrale  (see 
R.  6),  where  our  line  diverges  to  the  right.  Skirting  the  coast,  it 
crosses  the  Sarno  (on  the  right  is  the  rocky  islet  of  Revigliano,  with 
an  old  castle)  ;  and  in  12  min.  it  reaches  the  Castellammare  station 
at  the  N.  end  of  the  town.  —  The  line  then  again  runs  inland, 
reaching  its  terminus  at(3M.)  Gragnano,  a  little  community,  well 
known  for  its  excellent  red  wine,  and  containing  numerous  manu- 
factories of  maccaroni.     About  2t/4  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  Lettere,  with 


144      Route  9.  CASTELLAMMARE.  From  Naples 

a  ruined  castle.      Carriage -road  from  Gragnano  to  Agerola,  see 
p.  146. 

Castellammare.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Royal,  in  the  main  street,  near 
the  station,  R.2Vs-4,  L.  »/4,  A.  "A.  B-  IVs,  dej.  3V«,  »•  5  (both  incl.  wine), 
pens.  8-11  fr.;  Hotel  Staeia,  nearest  the  station  and  also  on  the  quay, 
in  the  Italian' style,  well  spoken  of,  R. ,  L.,  &  A.  3 ,  B.  1,  dej.  2'/2,  D.  5 
(both  incl.  wine),  pens.  7  fr.  —  Beautifully  situated  above  the  town, 
on  the  road  to  Quisisana,  commanding  a  charming  view  of  Vesuvius 
and  the  bay:  ,:'H6tel  Quisisana,  on  the  left,  frequented  by  the  English, 
R  3-6  L.  &  A.  I1/"-  B.  I1/2,  dej.  3,  D.  5,  pens.  (L.  extra)  9-12,  omnibus 
from  station  with  "luggage  I1/2  fr. ;  Gean  Beetagna  ,  on  the  right.  — 
*Geand  Hotel  Maegheeita,  in  the  Villa  Quisisana  (p.  145),  recently  newly 
fitted  up,  150  R.,  pens.  10-12  fr.  —  Pension  Baker  (Villa  Calvanese),  5-7 
fr.  —  'Hotel  &  Pension  Weiss  (Villa  Belvedere),  on  the  hill  to  the  E., 
near  the  station,  with  terrace,  fine  garden,  and  view,  pens.  (L.  extra),  6  fr. 
daily.     The  road  hence  to  Quisisana  passes  Scanzano. 

Caffe  deW  Europa  and  Trattoria  Villa  di  Napoli,  both  in  the  Largo 
Principe  Umberto,  which  opens  towards  the  sea,  and  where  a  band  plays 
in  the  evening  1-3  times  a  week  according  to  the  season.  —  "Sail.  Re- 
staurant. 

Carriages.  There  is  no  difference  in  the  charge  whether  the  carriage  be 
drawn  by  a  horse  or  by  a  donkey ;  carr.  with  three  horses  same  charge  as  with 
tw0.  —  Tariff:  drive  in  the  town  with  one  horse  35  c.,  with  two  or  three 
horses  80  c.  —  Outside  the  town,  not  exceeding  2  kilometres  (IV4  M.):  first 
hour  with  one  horse  l1/*  fr.,  with  two  horses  2V2  fr. ;  each  additional 
hour  1  fr.  or  2  fr.  40  c.  —  To  Quisisana  1  or  3  fr. ;  to  Gragnano  1  or  2l/z  fr. ; 
to  Pozzano  80  c.  or  2'/2  fr.;  to  Lettere  1  fr.  85  or  3  fr.  65  c;  to  Pimonte 
2  fr.  20  or  4fr.  70c;  to  Agerola  4  or  7  fr. ;  Vico  Equense  IV2  or  272  fr-; 
to  Meta  2l/i  or  41/2  fr. ;  to  Sorrento  3  or  6  fr.  (after  5  p.m.  372  or  7fr.); 
to  Torre  Annunziata  or  to  Pompeii  l'/2  or  3  fr.  —  The  return-fare  is 
generally  the  same  as  for  the  hither  journey;  but  a  definite  arrangement 
should  be  made  as  to  halts.  On  the  shorter  drives  the  carriage  should 
halt  V4-V2  hr. ,  on  the  longer  drives  1-5  hrs.  without  extra  charge.  — 
Charges  V2  more  at  night  (10  p.m.  to  6  a.m.  from  Nov.  1st  to  April  30th; 
other  seasons,  midnight  to  4  a.m.). 

Donkeys  within  a  radius  of  2  kilometres  from  the  town,  60  c.  for 
the  first  hr.,  40  c.  each  hr.  afterwards;  to  the  top  of  Monte  Coppola,  1  fr. 

British  Vice-Consul,  J.  Ashworth,  Esq.  —  U.  S.  Consular  Agent,  A.  M. 
Wood,  Esq.  —  English  Church  Service  in  winter. 

Castellammare,  a  busy  trading  and  fishing  town  with  33,000 
inhabl,  lies  in  the  E.  angle  of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  peninsula  of  Sorrento,  at  the  base  and  on  the  slope  of  a  spur 
of  Monte  S.  Angela.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Stabiae, 
which  was  destroyed  in  A.D.  79,  at  the  same  time  as  Pompeii,  and 
thence  derives  its  official  name  of  Castellammare  di  Stabia.  It  was 
here  that  the  elder  Pliny  perished  while  observing  the  eruption 
(p.  114).  Excavations  of  the  ruins  of  Stabiae,  which  lay  to  the 
left,  by  the  entrance  to  the  town,  towards  the  heights,  have  not 
been  undertaken  since  1782,  and  several  villas  then  laid  bare  have 
been  again  covered  with  rubbish. 

The  town  extends  along  the  coast  for  upwards  of  1  M.,  consist- 
ing of  one  main  street  and  a  second  running  parallel  with  it.  About 
1/3  M.  from  the  station  we  reach  the  Largo  Principe  Umberto,  a 
small  piazza  embellished  with  flower-beds  and  trees  ,  where  the 
Gaffe  Europa  is  situated.  Farther  on  we  come  to  the  animated 
Harbour,  which  is  protected  by  a  molo.   Adjoining  it  is  an  Arsenal 


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to  Sorrento.  CASTELLAMMARE.  9.  Route.    145 

with  a  dockyard.  —  On  the  hill  to  the  S.  of  the  town  are  the  ruins 
of  the  Castle  to  which  the  town  owes  its  name.  It  was  built  in  the 
13th  cent,  by  Emp.  Frederick  II.  and  strengthened  with  towers 
and  walls  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou. 

Castellammare  is  a  favourite  summer-resort  of  the  Neapolitans. 
The  attractions  are  sea-baths,  mineral  waters  (impregnated  with 
sulphur  and  carbonic  acid  gas"),  and  beautiful  shady  walks.  In  spring 
and  autumn  the  numerous  visitors  are  almost  exclusively  foreigners. 

Turning  to  the  S.  by  the  Largo  Principe  Umberto,  and  ascend- 
ing the  Salita  Caporiva  (inclining  to  the  right  after  5  min.),  we 
pass  the  Hotel  Quisisana  and  reach  a  winding  road,  shaded  by  fine 
chestnut-trees  higher  up,  which  leads  to  the  — 

Villa  Quisisana  (1  M.).  This  chateau  (Casino),  formerly  royal, 
now  municipal  property,  is  fitted  up  as  the  Grand  Hotel  Margherita 
(p.  144).  It  occupies  the  site  of  a  house  erected  here  by  Charles 
II.  of  Anjou  about  1300,  which  was  occupied  by  King  Ladislaus 
and  his  sister  Johanna  II.  while  the  plague  raged  at  Naples.  In 
1820  Ferdinand  I.  of  Bourbon  restored  the  building  and  gave  it  its 
present  name  ('one  recovers  health  here').  Charming  view  from 
the  terrace. 

The  Bosco  di  Quisisana,  or  park  belonging  to  the  villa,  which 
is  open  to  the  public,  affords  delightful  walks.  Following  the  road, 
we  pass  through  a  gate  to  the  right,  opposite  the  entrance  to  the 
Villa  Quisisana,  turn  to  the  left  at  the  first  bifurcation  (while  the 
road  in  a  straight  direction  goes  to  Pozzano,  see  below),  and  then 
pass  behind  the  former  garden  of  the  villa ,  from  which  there  is 
another  entrance  to  the  park.  —  Above ,  to  the  left ,  rises  the 
*  Monte  Coppola,  which  may  be  ascended  by  beautiful  wood-walks, 
winding  upwards  and  crossing  several  ravines ,  and  commanding 
admirable  views  of  the  bay  and  Vesuvius  (there  and  back  2- 
2'/2  nrs. ;  donkeys  admitted  to  the  park).  —  The  traveller  may 
return  from  Quisisana  to  Castellammare  by  the  shady  and  pictur- 
esque route  via  Pozzano  (V2nr-  longer;  beginning  indicated  above), 
which  passes  the  ruined  castle  of  Frederick  II.  and  the  Anjou  sov- 
ereigns. The  monastery  of  S.  Maria  a  Pozzano,  founded  by  Gon- 
salvo  da  Cordova,  is  now  unoccupied.    Fine  views. 

The  ascent  of  "Monte  Paito  (guide  convenient)  is  an  attractive  excur- 
sion. The  summit,  reached  in  li/2-2hrs-  via  Quisisana  and  the  Campo 
della  Cepparica,  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  dark  olive-clad 
peninsula  of  Sorrento  stretching  into  the  sea ,  the  islands  of  the  Sirens 
(p.  173),  and  Capri.  The  Monte  Sant'  Angelo  may  be  ascended  in  2:/z  hrs. 
from  the  Monte  Faito. 

"Monte  Sant'  Angelo,  4735  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  the  highest  point 
near  the  bay,  commands  a  noble  prospect ,  embracing  the  bays  of  G-aeta, 
Naples,  and  Salerno,  and  stretching  from  Monte  Circello  to  the  Punta 
Licosa  and  to  the  Abruzzi.  The  mountain  is  clothed  to  the  summit 
with  wood,  chiefly  chestnut-trees ,  and  offers  various  points  of  interest  to 
botanists.  Fragments  of  pumice-stone  (rapilli)  from  eruptions  of  Vesuvius 
are  observed  almost  all  the  way  to  the  top.  —  The  ascent,  which  should 
not   be   attempted  without  a  guide,  requires  4-5  hrs.  from  Castellammare 

Baedekeb.    Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  10 


146   Route  9.  VICO  EQUENSE.  From  Naples 

(on  donkey-back  3  hrs. ;  donkey  and  guide  5  fr.;  provisions  advisable). 
The  guides  should  be  expressly  directed  to  conduct  the  traveller  to  the 
highest  peak  crowned  by  the  ruined  chapel  of  St.  Michael ,  which  com- 
mands an  uninterrupted  panorama.  Otherwise  they  ascend  another  peak, 
the  view  from  which  is  partly  intercepted  by  the  higher  summit.  The 
last  1/z  hr.  must  be  accomplished  on  foot.  The  descent  to  Castellammare, 
either  by  the  epols  of  Monte  Coppola  (see  p.  145) ,  or  via  Pimonte  (see 
below),  or  to  Vico  Equense  (see  below),  takes  3  brs.  The  traveller  should 
start  early,  so  as  to  return  to  Castellammare  before  dusk.  The  excursion 
may  also  be  made  from  Agerola,  from  Vico  Equense,  or  from  Sorrento. 

From  Gkagnano  to  Agekola,  about  7'/2M.,  carriage-road.  Gragnano, 
terminus  of  the  railway  from  Naples  and  Castellammare  to  Gragnano, 
see  p.  143.  Carriages  meet  the  trains  (same  charge  as  from  Castellammare, 
see  p.  144;  2l/4-21/2  hrs.).  • —  The  road  gradually  ascends,  winding  round 
the  Monte  Pendolo,  amid  a  luxuriant  growth  of  vines,  fig-trees,  peach-trees, 
walnut-trees,  and  chestnut-trees.  Higher  up  there  are  chestnut-woods  alone. 
Beautiful  retrospect  of  the  Bay  of  Naples ,  Vesuvius  and  Monte  Somma, 
and  the  plain  as  far  as  Nola.  The  iirst  village  of  any  size  is  (2'/2  M.) 
Pimonte  (carr.  from  Castellammare,  p.  144),  whence  we  may  visit  the  (20 
min.)  suppressed  Dominican  monastery  of  Belvedere  (1770  ft.)  or  ascend 
to  the  0/2  hr.)  top  of  Monte  Pendolo,  which  commands  fine  views.  To 
the  S.  is  the  Monte  S.  Angelo  (see  p.  145).  From  Pimonte  the  road  ascends 
between  Monte  Cretaro  and  Monte  Lattaro  (the  ancient  Monies  Lactarii). 
The  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  pass  is  obviated  by  a  tunnel  (V2  M.)  through 
the  crest  of  the  mountain,  lighted  with  lamps  and  often  very  muddy  in 
wet  weather.  From  the  other  end  of  the  tunnel  the  road  descends,  amidst 
a  flora  gradually  increasing  in  luxuriance  as  we  advance,  to  Agerola. 
Beautiful  views. 

Agerola  (about  2300  ft.)  is  a  mountain  hamlet,  consisting  of  several 
'frazionf  or  groups  of  houses.  In  the  frazione  of  8.  Lazzaro  (comp.  the 
map,  p.  164)  is  the  "Albergo  del  Risorgimento  (18  beds;  pens.  6-8  fr.),  with 
a  view  terrace.  Various  shady  foot-paths  are  now  being  made;  e.  g.  to 
the  ruined  Casiello  Avitabile ,  which  commands  a  splendid  view  of  the 
Bay  of  Salerno  and  (to  the  W.)  of  Monte  Solaro  on  Capri  and  the  Punta 
di  Campanella  (p.  150);  Salerno  itself,  Amalfi,  and  the  places  on  the  coast 
are  not  visible.  A  longer  excursion  is  that  to  (IV2  hr.)  Montepertuso, 
situated  on  a  steep  rock  above  Positano  (p.  173),  to  which  we  may  descend 
in  s/4  hr.  From  S.  Lazzaro  we  may  descend,  keeping  always  to  the  left, 
to  (2  hrs.)  Amalfi  (p.  169),  by  foot-paths  which  reach  the  coast  road  from 
Positano  to  Amalfi  (p.  173)  at  Vettica  Minore. 

The  *Road  prom  Castellammake  to  Sorrento  (10  M. ;  on 
foot  recommended;  by  carriage  in  l1/^  hrs.,  tariff,  p.  144)  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  excursions  in  this  delightful  district.  We  pass 
below  the  monastery  of  S.  Maria  a  Pozzano  (see  p.  145)  to  the  Capo 
d' Orlando  (Osteria).,  Splendid  *View.  The  three  rocks  on  the 
coast  are  called  /  Tre  Fratelli.  We  next  reach  (3  M.)  — 

Vico  Equense  (Hot.-Pens.  d'Orient,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2l/2,  iej.  2% 
D.  3,  both  incl.  wine,  pens.  6-7,  2  pers.  10  fr.),  a  town  with  12,000 
inhab.,  situated  on  a  rocky  eminence,  the  ancient  Vicus  JEquenm. 
Vico  was  erected  by  Charles  II.  on  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  village, 
and  was  frequently  visited  by  him.  The  Cathedral  contains  the  tomb 
of  the  celebrated  jurist  Gaetano  Filangieri  (d.  1788).  In  the  Villa 
Giusso  are  several  modern  works  of  art. 

Beyond  Vico  the  deep  cutting  of  the  river  Arco  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge.  On  the  right  we  next  observe  Marina  di  Equa,  a  village 
with  a  handsome  campanile,  beyond  which  the  road  ascends  between 
vineyards  and  olive  plantations  on  the  slope  of  the  Punta  di  Scutolo 


to  Sorrento.  SORRENTO.  9.  Route.    147 

or  Punta  Oradelle.  After  having  rounded  this  promontory,  the  road 
descends  towards  Meta,  and  the  view  changes.  Before  us  stretches 
the  famous  Piano  di  Sorrento,  a  plain  sheltered  hy  the  surround- 
ing mountains,  and  intersected  hy  numerous  ravines,  remarkable 
for  its  salubrity  and  its  luxuriant  vegetation.  Orange  and  olive 
groves,  mulberry-trees,  pomegranates,  tigs,  and  aloes  are  beauti- 
fully intermingled.  This  has  been  a  favourite  retreat  of  the  noble 
and  the  wealthy  from  a  very  early  period.  Augustus,  M.  Agrippa, 
Antoninus  Pius,  and  others  frequently  resided  here,  and  at  the 
present  day  visitors  of  all  nationalities  are  met  with.  The  space  is 
limited,  and  the  villages  are  neither  large  nor  handsome,  but  the 
district  generally  is  pervaded  with  an  air  of  peaceful  enjoyment. 

Meta  (Trattoria  Villa  di  Sorrento)  is  a  town  of  8000  inhab., 
with  two  small  harbours.  The  modern  church  of  the  Madonna  del 
Lauro,  on  the  high-road,  occupies  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Minerva. 
(Route  to  Camaldoli  di  Meta,  see  p.  152.)  The  next  part  of  the 
road  is  mostly  shut  in  with  walls  (carriages  easily  obtained). 
The  Ponte  Maggiore  leads  across  the  deep  ravine  of  Meta.  We 
next  reach  Carotto,  a  large  village,  extending  in  nearly  a  straight 
line  from  the  hills  on  the  left  to  the  Marina  di  Cazzano  on  the 
right.  Then  Pozzopiano,  surrounded  by  beautiful  orange-gardens, 
and  lastly  Sant'  Agnello.  Here,  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  road, 
Y4M.  from  Sorrento ,  is  situated  the  Albergo  della  Cocumella  on 
the  beach  (see  below).  The  road  then  passes  the  (1.)  Villa  Guarra- 
cino  and  (r.)  the  Villa  Rubinacci  or  Rotonda,  traverses  the  long 
suburb,   and  soon  reaches  the  Piazza  of  Sorrento. 

Sorrento.  —  Hotels.  !!La  Sieena  ,  Tramontano  &  Tasso,  all  three 
belonging  to  Signor  Tramontano,  situated  between  the  small  and  the  large 
Marina,  on  an  abrupt  rock  rising  from  the  sea;  "Vittoria  ,  charmingly 
situated  above  the  small  Marina  (cabletramway),  entered  from  the  market- 
place, E.  3-4,  (2  pers.  6-8),  L.  &  A.  I1/2,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  3,  D.  5,  pens.  8-12  fr. 
—  A  little  more  to  the  E.  of  the  small  Marina,  'Hotel  d'Angleterre  (Villa 
Nardi),  E.,  L.,  &  A.  3,  B.  I1/4,  dej.  2l/2,  D.  4  (both.  incl.  wine),  pens. 
7  fr.  (for  a  stay  of  some  time  6  fr.);  400  yds  from  the  market-place,  "Hotel 
Grande  Beetagne  (Mrs.  Lawrence),  in  the  Villa  Majo,  E.,  L.,  &  A.  2'/2, 
B.  I1/4,  dej.  2fr.  80,  D.  4  fr.  80  c.  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  6-8  fr.;  a  little 
farther  on,  Hot. -Pens.  Lorelei  (Villa  Piccola  Sirena),  E.,  L. ,  &  A.  2V2, 
B.  1,  dej.  2V2,  D.  3V2,  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  7  fr.  (for  more  than  2  days 
6  fr.);  Hotel  Bristol  (Villa  S.  Severina)  closed  at  present.  All  these 
hotels ,  situated  in  gardens,  have  private  stairs  descending  to  the  sea  and 
small  bathing-establishments  (also  warm  baths),  and  command  magnificent 
views  of  the  bay.  Previous  enquiry  as  to  charges  had  better  be  made.  In 
summer  a  room  towards  the  N.  with  a  balcony  and  unimpeded  view  should 
be  obtained  if  possible.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  town,  "Alb.  della  Cocumella 
(see  above)  in  a  quiet  and  picturesque  situation,  with  good  beach  for 
bathing,  pens.  6  fr.  Villa  di  Sorrento,  Piazza  Municipio,  E.  2,  B.  H/2 
fr.,  well  spoken  of.  —  In  the  E.  suburb:  Villa  Eobinaoci,  Eosa  Magra, 
both  unpretending  (rooms  only  at  these).  —  Whole  villas  and  furnished 
apartments  may  also  be  procured  for  a  prolonged  stay.  (Information  at 
the  larger  hotels.) 

Restaurants.  Villa  di  Sorrento  in  the  Piazza  (also  rooms,  pension 
5-6  fr.);  Unione,  in  the  E.  suburb,  on  the  road  to  Meta,  unpretending.  — 
Gaffk  Europa,  in  the  Piazza;  Oafe'-Reslaur.  Be  Martino,  Corso  del  Duomo, 
200  paces  from  the  Piazza.  —  In  the  Piazza  is  also  the  Circe'.o  di  Sorrento, 

10* 


148   Route  9.  SORRENTO.  From  Naples 

a  club  with  reading-room,  etc.,  to  which  strangers  are  admitted  gratis  for 
a  week  (tickets  at  the  hotels),  per  month  5  fr. 

Sea-Baths  on  the  Piccola  Marina,  3/4  31.  distant,  1/2  fr.  —  Physicians, 
Dr.  Luigi  del  Majo,  Dr.  L.  Galano  (enquire  at  the  Farmacia  Finizio,  Corso 
Duomo).   Farmacia  Astarita. 

Carriages.  The  tariff  for  the  morning  is  lower  than  that  for  the 
afternoon,  so  that  charges  should  always  be  arranged  before  starting.  — 
To  Massalubrense  with  one  horse  lVi-2,  with  two  horses  2-3,  there  and 
back  2-3  or  3-4  fr. ;  to  S.  Agata  via  Massalubrense,  twice  as  much;  to 
Meta,  V4-IV4  or  l»/4-2»/4;  to  Vico  Equense,  l»/4-23/4  or  3*lz-&U,  to  Castel- 
lammare,  3-4</2  or  6-9  fr.  —  Two- horse  carr.  may  be  hired  for  2  fr.  the  first 
hr. ,  and  l'/2  fr.  each  additional  hour.  —  To  Prajano  (p.  173;  about 
3  hrs\  drive),  one-horse  carr.  6-10,  two-horse  10-15  fr.  (more  if  hired  at  a 
hotel).     Fees  are  in  every  case  extra. 

Donkey  generally  1  fr.  per  hour;  for  excursions  of  2-3  hrs.  2-272  fr., 
and  trifling  fee  to  attendant. 

Boats  (mostly  at  the  Piccola  Marina)  I-I72  fr.  per  hour ;  to  Capri 
with  2  rowers  6-8,  3-4  rowers  12,  5-8  rowers  16  fr. ;  to  Castellammare  about 
the  same. 

English  Church  Seevice,  at  the  Hotel  delle  Sirena. 

Bankek.    A.  Falangola  (wine  and  fruit  dealer,  branch  in  Naples). 

Silk  Wares  (in  imitation  of  the  Roman),  Inlaid  Wood  ('tarsia'),  and 
Wood  Carving,  are  good  and  cheap  at  Sorrento.  The  tarsia  work  has 
lately  become  one  of  the  staple  products  of  the  place ;  and  to  encourage 
the  industry  a  government  Scuola  a"  Arte  has  been  established  in  the  old 
convent  of  S.  Antonino,  where  orders  of  all  kinds  are  executed.  Other 
depots  of  these  articles,  which  are  well  adapted  for  souvenirs  and  presents, 
are  kept  by  Luigi  Oargiulo  &  Figlio  (also  silk  wares),  in  the  Corso 
Principe  Umberto;  Michel  Grandville,  Strada  del  Tasso;  Gius.  Oargiulo 
&  Co.,  in  the  same  street.  The  oldest  firm  of  silkmercers  is  Casola,  in 
the  Piazza;  other  good  houses  are  the  Fratelli  Miccio,  Strada  del  Tasso, 
Maresca  ('Aux  deux  Passages'),  on  the  road  to  Massa,  etc. 

Sorrento,  surnamed  lLa  Gentile1,  the  ancient  Surrentum  and 
still  called  by  the  peasants  Surient,  a  small  town  with  7500  inhab., 
and  the  residence  of  a  bishop  ,  lies  amid  luxuriant  lemon  and 
orange-gardens  on  rocks  rising  precipitously  from  the  sea,  and  is 
enclosed  on  the  other  sides  by  deep  ravines  which  popular  super- 
stition has  peopled  with  dwarfs  (monacelli).  The  E.  ravine,  by 
which  the  traveller  arriving  from  Meta  crosses  from  the  suburb  to 
the  Piazza,  terminates  in  the  Piccola  Marina,  or  small  harbour. 
The  W.  ravine  opens  into  the  Marina  Grande,  or  large  harbour, 
where  there  are  numerous  fishing-boats  and  a  ship-building  yard. 
During  the  middle  ages  Sorrento  carried  on  a  considerable  trade, 
but  its  walls  and  towers  have  long  since  fallen  to  decay.  Nothing 
remains  of  the  Roman  Surrentum,  once  rich  in  temples  and  villas, 
except  some  subterranean  cisterns ,  with  excellent  spring-water, 
which  have  defied  the  lapse  of  time,  and  a  few  fragments  and  sub- 
structures, which  have  been  dignified  with  pretentious  names. 

Torquato  Tasso,  the  poet  (b.  1544,  d.  at  Rome  1595),  was  a 
native  of  Sorrento.  A  marble  statue  of  the  poet  has  been  erected 
in  the  Piazza.  The  house  in  which  he  was  born,  with  the  rock  on 
which  it  stood,  has  been  swallowed  up  by  the  sea.  The  residence  of 
his  attached  sister  Cornelia,  however,  is  still  pointed  out  (Pal.  Ser- 
sale,  .Strada  S.  Nicola),  where,  after  a  glorious  but  chequered  career, 
he  was  received  by  her,  disguised  as  a  shepherd,  in  1592. 


to  Sorrento.  SORRENTO.  9.  Route.      149 

In  winter,  spring,  and  autumn,  Sorrento  is  visited  almost  ex- 
clusively by  foreigners,  chiefly  Americans  and  English.  Its  cool 
northern  aspect  admirably  adapts  it  for  a  summer-residence,  and 
it  is  then  frequented  by  both  Italians  and  foreigners  during  the 
bathing -season.  Visitors  generally  bathe  in  the  morning,  devote 
the  hot  part  of  the  day  to  the  'dolce-far-niente' ,  make  short 
excursions  in  the  beautiful  environs  late  in  the  afternoon ,  and 
after  sunset  lounge  in  the  Piazza  listening  to  the  band.  —  An 
aqueduct,  opened  in  1892,  supplies  the  town  with  excellent  drinking- 
water.  —  The  small  Giardino  Pubblico,  opposite  the  Hotel  Tra- 
montano,  commands  an  unimpeded  view  of  the  sea.  —  A  walk  in 
the  fine  avenue  beside  the  old  city -wall  is  recommended.  We 
reach  the  avenue  by  turning  to  the  le.ft  at  the  end  of  the  straight 
street  leading  from  the  piazza  past  the  Cathedral,  at  the  entrance 
of  which  are  several  ancient  bas-reliefs  and  inscriptions.  —  As 
most  of  the  neighbouring  roads  run  between  high  garden  walls, 
and  are  very  dusty  in  summer,  there  is  a  great  lack  of  walks. 

Excursions  by  Boat  are  very  pleasant.  Thus  (there  and  back  in 
172-2  hrs.,  with  one  rower  3  fr.)  to  the  Punta  di  Sorrento,  at  the 
W.  end  of  the  bay,  opposite  the  Punta  di  Scutolo  (p.  146)  to  the 
S.W.,  passing  between  cliffs  where  remains  of  Roman  masonry, 
baths,  and  a  so-called  temple  of  Hercules  are  visible.  The  traveller 
should  not  omit  to  row  into  the  large  ancient  piscina ,  now  called 
Bagno  delta  Regina  Oiovanna.  The  name  of  the  adjacent  hamlet  of 
Marina  di  Puolo  recalls  the  magnificent  Villa  of  Pollius  Felix, 
described  by  Statius ,  the  poet.  A  trip  by  boat  to  Meta  (p.  147), 
where  there  are  several  fine  grottoes  in  the  lofty  cliffs  of  the  coast 
(il  Pecoriello,  la  Piccola  Azzurra,  etc.),  may  be  made  in  the  same 
time  and  at  the  same  cost. 

The  **Road  to  Massalubkknse  (21/2  M.) ,  like  that  from 
Castellammare  ,  of  which  it  is  a  continuation ,  commands  a  series 
of  beautiful  views.  It  is  frequented  in  the  evening  by  numerous 
carriages,  riders,  and  walkers.  A  few  hundred  yards  beyond  the 
last  houses  of  Sorrento  it  crosses  the  ravine  of  La  Conca  by  a 
bridge.  To  the  left,  ^4  M-  farther,  the  'Strada  Capodimonte',  a 
paved  bridle-path,  ascends  to  the  left;  we  diverge  to  the  right  at 
the  second  bend  and  in  7  min.  reach  the  Capodimonte ,  a  famous 
point  of  view.  The  road,  however,  which  skirts  the  base  of  the 
Capodimonte,  commands  retrospectively  nearly  the  same  prospect. 
The  road  then  ascends  to  the  Capo  di  Sorrento,  whence  we  may  de- 
scend in  10-12  min.  to  the  Punta  di  Sorrento,  or  in  about  the  same 
time  to  the  Bagno  della  Rpgina  Giovanna  (see  above).  About  l3/4  M. 
from  Sorrento  we  reach  Villnzzano ,  a  group  of  houses  at  the  foot  of 
the  telegraph  hill  (p.  151),  which  the  road  makes  a  bend  to 
avoid.  A  magnificent  view  towards  Capri  is  now  suddenly  dis- 
closed. On  the  right  is  the  rocky  islet  of  Vervece.  About  3/4  M. 
farther  we  reach  — 


150     Route  9.  SORRENTO.      Punta  di  Campanella. 

Massalubrense  [Alb  ergo  di  Massa,  tolerable  ;  Restaurant  Minerva, 
at  the  entrance,  well  spoken  of,  a  small  town  of  8500  inhab.,  over- 
shadowed by  the  castle  of  S.  Maria,  to  which  the  Via  Pozzillo  ascends 
(a  boy  had  better  be  hired  as  guide].  The  key  of  the  view-tower  is 
obtained  at  one  of  the  houses  (small  fee).  On  the  coast  are  the 
remains  of  a  Roman  aqueduct  and  other  antiquities  ;  but  no  traces 
now  remain  of  the  temple  of  the  Sirens ,  which  enjoyed  a  wide 
reputation  in  antiquity.  The  church  of  S.  Francesco  is  said  to 
occupy  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Juno.  On  15th  Aug.  a  festival  which 
attracts  the  inhabitants  of  the  whole  neighbourhood  is  celebrated 
here  annually.  • —  Boats  and  carriages  for  the  return  to  Sorrento 
are  generally  to  be  found  here;  also  boats  for  the  passage  to  Capri 
(cheaper  than  at  Sorrento).  —  The  road,  making  a  curve  round  the 
Monte  S.  Nicola,   ascends  to  S.  Agata  (about  272  M. ;  see  p.  151). 

From  Massalubrense  we  may  proceed  in  3/*  hr.  by  S.  Maria  to  the  village 
of  Termini  (Osteria),  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  S.  Costanzo  (1470  ft.),  the  highest 
point  of  the  outer  part  of  the  peninsula  (a  fine  point  of  view ;  ascent  somewhat 
fatiguing ;  a  hermit  at  the  top).  Beyond  Termini  the  road  gradually  des- 
cends to  the  Punta  di  Campanella  (155  ft.),  the  extremity  of  the  peninsula, 
l3/4  hr.  from  Massalubrense.  This  was  the  ancient  Cape  of  Minerva,  sonamed 
after  a  temple  said  to  have  been  erected  here  by  Ulysses  in  honour  of 
that  goddess.  The  promontory  owes  its  modern  name  to  the  bells  of  one 
of  the  watch-towers  erected  along  the  coast  by  Charles  V.  as  a  pro- 
tection against  pirates.  So  lately  as  the  beginning  of  the  19th  cent,  numerous 
inhabitants  of  the  Italian  coast  were  carried  off  as  slaves  by  the  Barbary 
pirates.  From  this  bare  and  lonely  rock,  which  is  crowned  with  a  Lighthouse 
and  overgrown  with  olives  and  myrtles,  we  enjoy  a  magnificent  distant 
view  of  the  sea,  the  coast,  and  the  island  of  Capri,  3  M.  distant.  Beyond 
the  lighthouse  are  considerable  remains  of  a  Roman  villa.  (Donkey 
from  Massa  for  the  entire  excursion  about  5  fr.  —  Those  who  make  the 
excursion  from  Sorrento  to  the  Punta  Campanella  should  allow  for  it 
7-8  hrs.  in  all.) 

From  Termini  the  traveller  may  descend  to  the  S.  to  Nerano  and  the 
Marina  del  Canlone,  whence  the  ruins  of  Crapolla,  2  M.  to  the  E.,  may 
be  visited  by  boat.  On  this  trip  we  obtain  a  beautiful  view  of  the  three 
Islands  of  the  Sirens,  also  called  1  Galli  (p.  173).  At  the  landing-place 
of  Crapolla  we  observe  remains  of  a  wall  with  a  fountain  in  the  centre, 
and  traces  of  an  aqueduct;  higher  up  the  hill  are  the  ruins  of  the  monastery 
and  early-Romanesque  basilica  of  S.  Pietro,  the  eight  marble  and  granite 
columns  of  which  are  probably  derived  from  some  ancient  temple.  Good 
walkers  may  ascend  from  this  point  to  S.  Agata  (see  p.  151)  and  return 
thence  to  Sorrento. 

The  Heights  above  Sorrento  afford  many  fine  points  of  view, 
the  paths  to  which  are  generally  steep,  narrow,  and  viewless,  and 
most  conveniently  reached  on  donkey-back.  Walking  is,  however, 
not  unpleasant  in  the  cool  season. 

A  very  favourite  point  is  the  Deserto  ,  I74-IV2  hr.  from  the 
Piazza  of  Sorrento.  The  carriage  -  road  leads  by  Massalubrense  and 
S.  Agata  (see  p.  151  ;  carriages,  p.  148).  Walkers  and  riders  leave 
the  Massa  road,  and  ascend  to  the  left  by  the  Strada  Capodi- 
monte  (p.  149).  Beyond  the  second  bend  we  hold  to  the  left  (to 
the  right  to  Opodimonte,  see  p.  149).  Farther  on  (10  min.)  we 
avoid  the  ('rocoviaroad  to  the  left  and  go  straight  on  between  garden- 
walls.    In  yt  hr.  we  turn  to  the  left  to  Priora,  which  we  reach  after  an 


Telegrafo.  SORRENTO.  9.  Route.    151 

ascent  of  5-10  min. ,  we  now  pass  through  a  vaulted  passage,  go 
straight  on  across  the  Largo  Priora,  the  small  piazza  in  front  of  the 
church ,  turn  to  the  right  opposite  the  Campanile  (and  again  to  the 
right),  and  follow  the  paved  path.  The  red  building  on  the  hill  be- 
fore us  is  the  Deserto,  35-40  min.  from  Priora.  —  The  *Deserto  is 
a  suppressed  monastery ,  in  which  an  establishment  for  destitute 
children  has  recently  been  fitted  up  by  monks.  In  return  for  the  re- 
freshments offered  to  visitors,  a  contribution  to  the  funds  of  the  in- 
stitution is  expected.  The  roof  of  the  building  commands  a  charming 
prospect  of  both  bays,  and  the  island  of  Capri ;  in  front  of  the  latter 
rises  the  hill  of  S.  Costanzo  p.  (150),  to  the  left  of  which  is  the 
solitary  little  church  of  8.  Maria  della  Neve.  —  From  the  Deserto 
we  may  return  by  the  village  of  S.  Agata  (*Pens.  Bourbon-Brand- 
meyer,  6  fr.,  with  restaurant),  a  picturesque  summer-resort,  3/4  M. 
to  the  S.E.  The  church  contains  a  high- altar  of  inlaid  marble. 
An  important  festival  is  celebrated  here  on  August  15th.  A  new 
carriage-road,  commanding  fine  views,  leads  from  S.  Agata  to 
Massalubrense  (p.  150).  The  descent  to  Sorrento  through  the 
beautiful  chestnut  wood  of  La  Tigliana  is  very  steep. 

Another  interesting  excursion  is  to  the  Telegrafo  (785  ft.),  a 
somewhat  steep  hill,  on  which  there  used  to  be  an  optic  telegraph 
communicating  with  Capri,  2y2  M.  to  the  W.,  and  which  com- 
mands an  admirable  view.  We  may  ascend  either  from  Villazzano 
in  20-25  min.  (p.  149;  2y2  M.  from  Sorrento;  boy  as  guide  through 
the  woods  40-50  c),  or  by  following  the  route  to  the  Deserto  as  far 
as  the  point  where  the  road  to  Priora  diverges  to  the  left  (1/2  hr.). 
From  that  point  we  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  to  (10  min.) 
a  guard-house  of  the  Uffizio  Daziario  of  Massalubrense,  about 
30  paces  beyond  which  we  enter  the  second  gate  on  the  right  leading 
through  the  yard  of  a  cottage  (2-3  soldi).  In  6  min.  more  the  path 
leads  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  telegraph.  —  At  the  foot  of  the 
hill  lies  the  *Valle  delle  Pigne,  which  derives  its  name  from  a 
number  of  handsome  pines.  The  view  of  Capri  hence  is  justly 
celebrated.  Quails  are  captured  here  and  in  other  parts  of  the 
peninsula  of  Sorrento,  and  in  the  island  of  Capri,  in  large  numbers 
in  May,  June,  September,  and  October,  affording  considerable 
profit  to  the  inhabitants. 

An  admirable  survey  of  the  Piano  di  Sorrento  is  afforded  by  the 
*Piccolo  S.  Angelo  (1460  ft.),  iy2  hr.  to  the  S.E.  of  Sorrento. 
The  route  ascends  from  the  Piazza  of  Sorrento  along  the  E.  margin 
of  the  E.  ravine,  passing  Cesarano  and  Baranica.  At  the  top  is  a 
deserted  oottage.  From  this  point  we  ascend  slightly  to  the  S.,  then 
follow  the  footpath  leading  through  woods  to  the  right,  along  the 
slope  of  the  Tore  di  Sorrento,  to  (I-IV2  nr-)  S.  Agata  (see  above). 
Picturesque  views  below  us  all  the  way. 

The  Conti  delle  Fontanelle,  a  chain  of  hills  adjoining  the  Piccolo 
S.  Angelo  to  the  S.E.  and  commanding  a  survey  of  the  bays  of  Naples  and 
Salerno,  may  be  reached  from  Sorrento  in  l]/2  hr.  by  a  path  which  diverges 


152    Route  9.  CAPRI.  Steamboats. 

to  the  right  from  the  Meta  road  at  the  white  summer-house  of  the  Villa 
Cacace ,  between  the  villages  of  Pozzopiano  and  Carotto.  We  may  ascend 
to  the  W.  to  the  Telegrafo  di  Marecoccola ,  which  is  an  admirable  point 
of  view. 

Above  Meta  (p.  147)  lies  the  suppressed  monastery  of  Camaldoli  di 
Meta,  now  a  country-seat  of  the  Conte  Giusso,  commanding  an  excellent 
view.  It  is  reached  in  21/t  hrs.  from  Sorrento:  dusty  road  to  Meta  31/4  ST. 
(carriage  in  20-25  min.,  3/t  fr.).  At  a  large  red  house  we  turn  to  the  left 
into  the  lane  called  Vico  Albert  and  ascend  to  an  olive-grove  and  (1  M.)  the 
church  of  Alberi.  Then  we  turn  to  the  right  and  reach  ('/a  M.)  the  Villa 
Oivsso-Aslapiana,  where  the  best  point  of  view  is  the  rondel  in  the  E.  part  of 
the  park,  about  '/*  ^-  from  the  entrance.  As  the  view  is  finest  towards 
sunset,  the  excursion  should  not  be  made  at  too  early  an  hoar  (gardener 
Vz-l  fr.). 

A  fatiguing  but  interesting  excursion  is  the  ascent  of  the  Vico  Alvano 
(2105  ft.) ,  the  path  to  which  also  diverges  from  the  Sleta  road  by  the 
Villa  Cacace  (see  above).  It  then  crosses  the  heights  of  the  Conti  di  Gere- 
menita.     (From  Sorrento,  there  and  back,  6-7  hrs.,  with  guide.) 

We  may  also  walk  in  2  hrs.  via,  Meta,  Arbore.  Fornacelle,  and  Preazzano 
to  the  village  of  S.  Maria  a  Castello,  where  from  a  projecting  rock  a 
view  is  obtained  of  Positano ,  2000  ft.  below ,  to  which  a  path  descends 
in  steps.  On  15th  Aug.,  the  occasion  of  a  great  festival  at  Positano  (comp. 
p.  173),  many  visitors  ascend  from  Sorrento  to  S.  Maria  for  the  sake 
of  seeing  the  illumination  below. 

Capri. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  144. 

As  the  trips  of  the  steamer  are  neither  very  regular  nor  punctual 
(the  weather,  number  of  passengers,  etc.,  often  deciding  the  question), 
enquiry  on  this  subject  should  be  made  at  the  hotels,  or,  better  still,  at 
the  shipping  offices.  It  should  also  be  observed  that  when  the  wind 
is  in  the  E.  or  N.  the  Blue  Grotto  is  not  accessible  —  a  fact,  however, 
which  the  captain  of  the  steamer  is  careful  not  to  mention.  On  windy 
days,  moreover,  the  roughness  of  the  water  is  apt  to  occasion  sea-sickness. 
—  Unless  the  traveller  is  much  pressed  for  time,  he  should  not  attempt 
to  crowd  the  excursion  into  one  day,  as,  in  addition  to  the  Blue  Grotto, 
he  will  barely  have  time  to  visit  the  Villa  of  Tiberius.  The  view  from 
the  latter,  moreover,  is  far  less  attractive  in  the  middle  of  the  day  than 
by  evening  light.  One  whole  day  at  least  should  be  devoted  to  the  island, 
and  besides  the  above  two  chief  attractions,  the  Punta  Tragara,  Anacapri, 
and  Slonie  Solaro  should  be  visited,  or  a  sail  taken  round  the  island. 

From  Naples  to  Capri.  JIail  Steamer  (via  Vico  Equense,  Meta, 
Sorrento,  and  Massalubrense)  of  the  Societa  Napoletana  di Navigazione  (office, 
Marina  Nuova  14)  ply  to  Capri  daily,  weather  permitting,  leaving  the 
Immacolatella  (PI.  G,  5;  p.  38)  at  3.30  p.m.  (in  winter  2  p.m.),  and 
returning  from  Capri  early  in  the  morning.  Another  Steamboat  of  the 
same  company  leaves  the  harbour  beside  the  Castel  dell'  Ovo  (PI.  F,  7; 
p.  34)  daily  at  9  a.m.,  touches  at  Sorrento  (l3/4  hr.),  and  proceeds  direct 
to  the  Blue  Grotto,  weather  permitting.  After  visiting  the  latter,  the 
passengers  are  conveyed  to  the  Marina  of  Capri,  arriving  about  12  or  12.30. 
The  vessel  starts  again  about  3  p.m.  and  reaches  Naples  about  6  p.m.  Fare 
to  Capri  6  fr.  (from  Sorrento  5  fr.);  return -ticket,  available  for  three 
months ,  10  fr.  Embarcation  and  landing  at  Naples  and  at  Capri  20  c.  each 
person;  boat  into  the  Blue  Grotto,  see  p.  153.  —  A  small  Local  Steamee 
(Con-tere  di  Capri)  also  plies  between  Naples  and  Capri  when  the 
weather  allows,  leaving  Capri  on  Mon.  &  Frid.  at  10  a.m.  and  Naples 
(Immacolatella;  PI.  G,  5)  on  Tues.  &  Sat.  at  2  p.m.  (single  fare  3  fr.  first- 
class,  return  available  for  a  week,  5  fr.). 

From  Sorrento  to  Capri.  Mail  Steamee,  see  above.  By  Small  Boat 
the  passage  takes  2-2V2  hrs.  (fares,  see  p.  148).  A  four-o;red  boat  for  the 
excursion  to  Capri  and  Amalfi  costs  30-40  fr.,  the  night  being  spent  at 
Capri.     Fom   Massalubnnse  to  Capri,    see  p.  150.     Boat  from   Capri    to 


Hotels.  CAPRI.  9.  Route.    153 

Amalfl  (4-5  hrs.),  with  2  rowers  12,  4  rowers  18,  6  rowers  25  fr.  (bargaining 
necessary).  Fine  weather  is  indispensable,  but  a  perfect  calm  is  neither 
necessary  nor  desirable. 

The  Marina  Grande  (p.  154),  or  chief  landing  place,  is  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  island  ;  when  a  strong  N-  wind  is  blowing,  steamers  anchor  at  the 
Marina  Piccola  (p.  155)  on  the  S.  side.  The  ascent  from  the  latter  can  only 
be  made  on  foot.  Order  is  now  tolerably  well  maintained  at  the  landing- 
place  at  Capri.  Boat  from  steamer  to  landing-place  20  c.  One  soldo  is 
sufficient  payment  for  assistance  rendered  to  passengers  on  landing ;  a  few 
coppers  may  also  be  thrown  into  the  water  fer  the  boys  to  dive  for. 

Hotels  in  Capri  (often  very  full,  so  that  is  advisable  to  secure  rooms 
beforehand).  On  the  Marina:  "^Hotel  Bristol,  dependance  of  the  Quisi- 
sana,  at  the  quay,  R.  2-3,  L.  l/-z,  A.  i/2,  B.  iy4,  dej.  3,  D.  4,  pens.  6-9  fr.; 
Grande  Bretagne,  with  terrace  and  sea-baths,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2Vz,  B.  1,  dej. 
2'/2,  D-  4  (both  inel.  wine),  pens.  6  fr. ;  Bellevue,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2,  B.  3A, 
dej.  2V2,  D.  3  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  6  fr. ;  these  two  also  close  to  the 
landing-place.  —  Admirably  situated  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  landing-place, 
with  terraces:  *Grotte  Bleue,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2-3,  B.  1,  dej.  3,  D.  4  (both 
incl  wine),  pens.  6  fr.,  with  sea-baths;  Louvre,  Berliner  Hof,  R,L.,  & 
A.  2-3,  B.  1,  dej.  3,  D.  4'/2  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  6-7  fr.  —  Higher  still, 
on  the  road  to  Capri:  'Schweizerhof,  dependance  of  the  Quisisana  (see 
below),  same  charges  as  Hotel  Bristol.  —  In  the  Town  of  Capri:  "Quisisana 
(omnibus  at  the  quay),  on  the  way  to  the  Certosa  (see  p.  155),  R.  2-3,  L.  1/2, 
A.  1/2,  B.  IV2,  dej.  3,  D.  472,  omn.  3/i  (with  luggage  IV4)  fr. ;  Pagano,  on 
the  road  to  Quisisana,  frequented  by  Germans,  plain,  pens.  6,  for  less 
than  three  days,  7  fr.  (numerous  reminiscences  of  artist-guests ;  the  garden 
contains  a  handsome  palm-tree);  Continental,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  V/2,  B.  1^4, 
dej.  3,  D.  4>/2  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  6-8  fr. ;  *H6tel  de  France,  to  the 
left  of  the  Piazza,  on  the  way  to  the  Tiberio,  with  S.  aspect  and  small 
garden,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2,  B.  1,  dej.  2,  D.  3  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  6  fr.  (less 
than  three  days  7,  from  June  to  Dec.  51/2-61/2fr.),  well  spoken  of;  Faraglioni, 
in  a  side-street  to  the  right  of  the  road  to  the  Tiberio,  near  the  Hot.  de 
Frrnce,  R.  2l/z,  B.  1,  dej.  2>/2,  D.  31/2  (both  incl.  wine),  pens,  for  a  week  or 
more  6-7  fr.  daily.  — "Busetti  (with  Restaurant),  Corso  Tiberio,  unpretending. 

Cafe-Restaurants.  "Cafi  Hidigeigei,  good  and  moderate  (German  beer, 
groceries,  paper,  etc.;  agency  for  furnished  rooms;  propr.  Morgano);  Caffl 
al  Vermouth  di  Torino,  in  the  Piazza,  a  favourite  resort.  —  Confectioner: 
Pasiicceria  Califano,  in  the  Piazza  (English  spoken).  —  Furnished  Apart- 
ments numerous  and  cheap  (from  30  fr.  per  month,  including  breakfast)  both 
in  Capvi  and  Anacapri.  —  Physicians :  Dr.  J.  Cerio,  Dr.  Oiov.  Masotino,  speak 
English  and  French;  physicians  at  Anacapri  see  p.  157. 

Carriages.  From  the  Marina:  to  the  town  of  Capri  with  one  horse 
l'/2  fr.,  there  and  back,  with  stay  of  1  hr.,  2!/2  fr. ;  with  two  horses,  3  and 
4  fr. ;  to  Anacapri,  with  one  horse,  3  fr.,  there  and  back,  4  fr.,  with  two 
horses,  5  and  6  fr.  From  the  town  of  Capri  to  Anacapri,  with  one  horse, 
IV2  fr.,  there  and  back,  21/?  fr.,  with  two  horses,  3  and  4  fr. 

Donkey  from  the  Marina  to  the  town  of  Capri  1,  Horse  I1/4  fr.,  in 
the  reverse  direction  3/4  or  1  fr. ;  to  the  Villa  di  Tiberio  and  back  2'/2 
or  3  fr. ;  to  Anacapri  and  back  2!/2  and  3  fr. ;  to  the  top  of  the  Solaro 
4'/2  fr. ;  from  the  town  to  Anacapri  and  back  l'/2  and  2  fr.  —  Guides  are 
quite  unnecessary  unless  time  is  very  limited.  A  boy  to  show  the  way 
may  be  engaged  for  several  hours  for  V2-I  fr- 

Boats  (bargaining  necessary)  about  IV2  fr.  per  hour ;  trip  to  the  Blue 
Grotto,  see  p.  15S ;  'giro',  or  tour  of  the  island  (p.  159),  6-8  fr.  To  Sorrento, 
see  p.  148;  the  hotels  Quisisana  and  Pagano  possess  in  common  a  very 
comfortable  boat  for  8  pers.,  which  is  hired  for  the  trip  to  Sorrento  with 
six  rowers  for  14  fr. ;  boats  with  four  rowers  for  smaller  parties  are  also 
provided  (8fr.).  —  Boat  from  the  Marina  Piccola,  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
island  (see  p.  155),  to  the  Grotta  del  Arsenale  or  the  Green  Grotto  and 
round  the  E.   end  of  the  island  to  the  Marina,  4-5  fr. 

English  Church  Service  in  winter. 

Distances  in  Capri.  From  either  Marina  to  the  town,  20-c0  min.; 
from   the  Piazza  in   the   town  to   the   Villa  di   libtrio ,  3/i  hr. ;   from   the 


154    Route  9.  CAPRI.  History. 

Piazza  to  the  Punia  Tragara,  20  min. ;  thence  by  the  E.  coast  to  the  Area 
Naturale ,  50  min. ;  thence  to  the  Villa  of  Tiberius,  50  min.  The  whole 
circuit  from  the  Piazza  to  the  Punta  Tragara,  Arco  Naturale  and  the 
Villa,  and  back  to  the  Piazza  takes  thus  about  3hrs..  besides  halts.  The 
visit  to  Anacapri  and  Monte  Solaro  takes  3-4  hrs.,  there  and  back.  All  the 
different  walks  (upwards  of  40)  are  described  in  Dr.  Alan  Wallers'  little 
Handbook  lo  Capri  (Naples,  Furchheim,  1893). 

Capri,  the  ancient  Capreae,  is  a  small,  mountainous  island  of 
oblong  form.  Its  picturesque  outline  forms  one  of  the  most  charming 
points  in  the  view  of  the  Bay  of  Naples.  The  highest  point  is  the 
Monte  Solaro  on  the  "W.  side,  1920  ft.  above  the  sea-level ;  towards  the 
E.  huge  cliffs,  about  900  ft.  in  height,  rise  abruptly  from  the  sea. 
The  island,  which  contains  about  4700  inhab.  and  the  two  small 
towns  of  Capri  and  Anacapri,  yields  fruit,  oil,  and  excellent 
red  and  white  wines  in  abundance.  The  indigenous  flora  comprises 
300  species.  The  inhabitants  support  themselves  partly  by  the  pro- 
duction of  oil  and  wine  and  by  fishing,  but  by  far  the  largest  source 
of  income  is  afforded  by  the  strangers  who  visit  the  island  yearly 
to  the  number  of  30,000.  The  men  frequently  emigrate  to  South 
America,  but  generally  return  to  Capri  again.  The  women,  who 
wear  a  tasteful  veil  of  black  lace ,  employ  themselves  mainly  with 
weaving.  Interesting  popular  festivals  are  held  on  the  feast  of  S. 
Costanzo,  the  patron-saint  of  the  island  (May  14th),  on  the  day 
of  S.  Antonio  (June  13th;  at  Anacapri"),  and  on  the  7th  and  8th 
Sept.  (in  honour  of  the  Virgin;  on  the  Tiberio  and  Solaro). 

The  island  first  came  into  notice  under  Augustus,  who  showed  a  great 
partiality  for  it,  and  founded  palaces,  baths,  and  aqueducts  here.  Tiberius 
erected  twelve  villas,  in  honour  of  the  twelve  gods,  in  the  principal  parts 
of  the  island,  the  largest  of  which  was  the  Villa  Jovis  (Tacit.  Ann.  iv. 
37),  after  he  had  surrendered  the  reins  of  government  to  Sejanus  and 
retired  hither  (A.D.  27).  He  remained  here  almost  uninterruptedly  till 
his  death  in  37,  even  after  the  fall  of  Sejanus  in  31.  Exaggerated  accounts 
are  given  of  the  cruelty  and  profligacy  of  the  emperor,  even  towards  the 
close  of  his  career.  The  tranquillity  and  inaccessibility  of  the  island,  as 
well  as  the  geniality  of  the  climate,  were  the  attractions  which  induced 
him  to  spend  so  many  years  in  it.  Considerable  remains  of  the  buildings 
of  Tiberius  are  still  extant.  In  1803 ,  during  the  Napoleonic  wars ,  Capri 
was  captured  by  the  English  under  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  fortified,  and  con- 
verted into  a  miniature  Gibraltar.  Sir  Hudson  Lowe  was  afterwards  the 
commandant.  In  Oct.  1808,  however,  the  island  was  recaptured  by  the 
French  under  Lamarque  by  a  brilliant  coup-de-main. 

During  the  last  20-30  years  Capri  has  become  one  of  the  chief  attrac- 
tions to  visitors  to  the  Bay  of  Naples,  not  only  in  spring  and  autumn  but 
also  in  summer,  when  many  permanent  foreign  residents  of  Naples  take 
up  their  temporary  abode  here.  The  island ,  indeed ,  is  not  seen  in  its 
full  beauty  except  in  summer. 

From  the  Marina  Orande ,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  island,  where 
there  are  several  hotels  (p.  153),  two  routes  ascend  to  the  small  town 
of  Capri.  Both  are  destitute  of  shade  and  are  far  from  pleasant  in 
the  middle  of  the  day.  The  shorter,  but  steeper  path  to  the  left 
(E.)  ascends  in  steps.  The  winding  carriage-road  to  the  right  (W.) 
passes  5.  Cottan-.o,  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  S.  Italy,  with 
antique  columns.  It  is  a  relic  of  the  old  town,  abandoned  in  the 
15th  cent,  on  account  of  repeated  inroads  of  pirates.     Only  a  few 


Punta  Tragara.  CAPRI.  9.  Route.    155 

other  ruins  recall  the  existence  of  this  town,  which  occupied  the  site 
of  the  Marina. 

Capri  (460  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  island,  with  2800  inhah., 
lies  on  the  saddle  which  connects  the  E.  heights  of  the  island  (Lo 
Capo)  with  the  western  (Mte.  Solaro),  and  is  commanded  by  two 
lower  hills  (S.  Michele  and  Castiglione),  the  first  crowned  with  an- 
cient ruins,  the  second  with  a  dilapidated  castle.  The  road  from  the 
Marina  Grande  unites  with  that  from  Anacapri,  and  shortly  afterwards 
comes  to  an  end  in  the  small  Piazza ,  with  the  Municipio  ,  the  post 
and  telegraph  office ,  and  the  chemist's.  A  flight  of  steps  ascends 
to  the  church  of  5.  Stefano.  A  small  collection  of  paintings  and 
sketches  by  artists  living  in  Capri  may  be  seen  in  the  town  (adm. 
25c).  —  The  route  to  the  Marina  Piccolo,  is  as  follows:  from  the 
Piazza  we  follow  the  road  to  Anacapri  for  7  min. ,  descend  some 
steps  to  the  right  by  the  last  house  on  the  right,  pass  under  the  road 
by  the  arch  to  the  left,  and  descend  the  stony  path  to  the  shore 
(1/4  hr.),  where  there  are  some  fishers'  huts  (wine). 

To  reach  the  Castiglione  (boy  as  guide  and  to  obtain  the  consent  of 
the  owner),  we  ascend  from  the  Piazza  by  the  steps  leading  to  the  church 
(see  above)  and  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  Hotel  Tiberio.  Here 
we  pass  through  the  hotel  and  enter  a  vaulted  passage  to  the  right,  lead- 
ing to  the  wall  of  the  fortress.  Beyond  the  church  of  S.  Teresa  we  pass 
through  another  vaulted  passage  and  then  follow  the  path  to  (20  min.)  a 
precipitous  rocky  slope  below  the  castle.  Splendid  view  of  Capri  and 
the  Piccola  Marina  (still  more  extensive  from  the  tower  of  the  castle). 
The  Orotta  del  Castiglione,  on  the  S.  side,  is  reached  by  a  fatiguing  series 
of  stone  steps.  —  For  the  ascent  of  the  S.  Michele  a  perrnesso  must  be 
obtained  from  its  owner,  Principe  Caracciolo ,  who  lives  in  the  Villa 
Catarina,  adjoining  the  Hotel  Quisisana  (easily  obtained  through  the  land- 
lord). The  entrance  is  beside  the  little  church  of  La  Croce,  on  the  way  to 
the  Tiberio.  We  here  turn  to  the  right  and  follow  an  ancient  road,  which 
formerly  led  to  a  Villa  of  Tiberius  on  the  top  of  the  hill.  Extensive  sub- 
structure sand  vaults  still  exist  below  the  vineyards.  Magnificent  view 
of  the  Marina  Grande,  the  Solaro,  the  Gulf  of  Capri,  and  the  Peninsula 
of  Sorrento.  At  the  foot  of  the  S.  Michele  is  another  stalactite  cavern;  the 
keeper  demands  1-2  fr.  for  torches,  but  a  bargain  should  bemade. 

Leaving  the  Piazza  by  a  vaulted  passage  beyond  the  flight  of 
steps  ascending  to  the  church  of  S.  Stefano  ,  then  turning  to  the 
right,  passing  the  Hotel  Pagano,  turning  to  the  left  again  just  be- 
fore reaching  the  Hotel  Quisisana  (the  path  straight  on  leads  to  the 
Certosa,  founded  in  1363,  now  a  barrack),  and  skirting  the  sub- 
stantial Roman  masonry  of  Le  Camerelle  (probably  connected  with 
the  construction  of  a  road  through  the  valley),  we  are  led  by  a  path 
which  ascends  sligthly  to  the  left  about  400  yds.  from  the  Quisi- 
sana to  the  (10  min.  more)  *Punta  Tragara  (Restaurant),  the 
S.E.  promontory.  This  point  commands  a  picturesque  view  of  Capri 
and  the  S.  coast,  with  three  precipitous  cliffs  called  the  Faraglioni. 
On  the  summit  of  II  Monacone  ('Great  Monk'),  farther  to  the  E., 
are  remains  of  a  Roman  tomb,  and  near  the  Punta  are  the  remains 
of  a  Roman  house  exhumed  in  1885. 

A  path  leads  hence  to  the  Arco  Naturale.  From  the  Punta  Tragara  we 
descend  the  steps  to  the  right  of  the  'Villa  Tragara',  and  follow  the  good 


156    Route  9.  CAPRI.  Villa  di  Tib erio. 

Footpath  (stone  seats  at  intervals)  along  the  slope,  enjoying  "Views  of 
the  Faraglioni  and  of  the  Polyphemus  rock.  The  path  ,  proceeding  some- 
times by  flights  of  steps,  undulates  round  the  Telegrafo  or  Tuoro  Grande, 
a  hill  with  an  old  optic  telegraph  and  the  remains  of  a  villa  of  Tiberius 
on  the  top.  At  the  gorge  descending  on  the  N.  from  this  bill  towards 
the  sea ,  we  turn  inland  ,  and  in  50  min.  from  the  Punta,  at  a  group  of 
houses,  reach  the  path  descending  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley  to  the 
Arco  Naturale  (see  below).  The  view  of  the  E.  coast  from  this  path  is  still 
finer  than  that  from  the  arch  itself. 

The  N.E.  promontory ,  called  Lo  Capo,  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  site  of  the  Villa  Jovis,  to  which  Tiberius  retired  for 
nine  months  after  the  fall  of  Sejanus  (3/4  hr.  from  the  town  of 
Capri).  The  path  cannot  be  mistaken.  From  the  Piazza  we  pass 
to  the  left  through  the  archway  bearing  the  sign  of  the  Hotel  de 
France  and  follow  first  the  Corso  di  Tiberio,  the  narrow  main  street 
of  Capri ,  and  then  a  paved  track  to  (8  min.)  a  large  ruined  house 
from  which  a  tall  agave  grows  picturesquely  (to  the  right  the  path 
to  the  Arco  Naturale  and  the  'Telegrafo',  see  below).  Our  path 
passes  between  this  ruin  and  the  picturesque  little  church  of  S.  Mi- 
chele,  continues  at  the  same  level  or  slightly  ascending,  with  a  view 
of  the  chapel  at  the  Villa  of  Tiberius  above  and  of  the  old  light- 
house, and  at  length  skirts  the  slope  to  the  right.  On  the  right, 
a  few  minutes  before  reaching  the  last  hill,  we  pass  a  clean  tavern 
[good  Capri  1^4  lr.  per  bottle)  called  'Salto  di  Tiberio',  after  the 
rock  (745  ft.  above  the  sea)  from  which,  according  to  a  purely 
mythical  story,  the  tyrant  precipitated  his  victims.  A  projecting 
platform  with  a  railing  affords  a  view  of  the  sea  below.  A  good 
idea  of  the  height  of  these  rocks  may  be  gained  by  dropping  a  stone 
over  the  railing  and  noting  the  time  it  takes  to  fall  into  the  sea.  — 
To  the  right  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  Lighthouse  (View). 
The  Tarantella  dancers  who  usually  present  themselves  here  expect 
Vo-l  fr.  for  their  exhibition. 

After  a  slight  ascent  we  reach  the  *VilIa  di  Tiberio  (pronounc- 
ed Timlerio  by  the  natives),  part  of  the  extensive  ruins  of  which 
are  now  used  as  a  cow-house.  They  consist  of  a  number  of  vault- 
ed chambers  and  corridors ,  the  uses  of  which  cannot  now  be  as- 
certained. On  the  highest  point  is  the  small  chapel  of  S.  Maria 
del  Soccorso  (1050  ft.),  with  the  cell  of  a  hermit,  who  offers 
wine  and  for  a  trifling  donation  allows  the  visitor  to  inscribe  his 
'testimonium  prjesentiae'.  This  point  commands  a  noble  prospect 
of  the  island  and  the  blue  sea,  of  the  barren  Punta  di  Campanella 
opposite,  and  the  two  bays;  even  Peestum  and  the  Ponza  Islands 
(to  the  N."W.)  are  visible  in  clear  weather. 

In  returning  we  take  the  path  which  diverges  to  the  right  by  the 
ruined  house  with  the  agave  (see  above;  20  min.  from  the  Salto  di  Tibe- 
rio) ;  we  then  cross  gardens  and  fields  in  the  same  direction  as  the  tele- 
graph wires.  In  10  min.,  at  a  group  of  houses,  we  reach  the  upper  end 
of  the  gor^e  mentioned  ;ibove,  in  which  ends  the  path  from  the  Punta 
Tragara  round  the  E.  side  of  the  Telegrafo.  To  the  left  in  this  valley, 
8  min.  farther,  and  reached  by  a  path  which  is  rather  rough  towards  the 
end,  rises  the  "Ar^o  Naturale,  a  magnificent  natural  archway  in  the  rock, 


Anacapri.  CAPRI.  9.  Route.    157 

where  we  obtain  a  striking  view  of  the  imposing  and  ragged  cliffs.  A 
visit  to  the  Qrotta  di  Micromania,  to  which  180  steps  descend,  may  be 
combined  with  this  excursion  (we  retrace  our  steps  for  4  min. ,  then 
descend  to  the  left  to  the  steps,  passing  through  some  small  gardens).  This 
grotto  contained  a  shrine  of  Mithras,  the  'unconquered  god  of  the  sun', 
whose  cult  was  introduced  to  Rome  from  the  East,  and  in  the  time  of  the 
later  emperors  spread  through  all  the  provinces  of  the  empire.  Roman 
remains  may  be  seen  in  the  cave.  —  Returning  to  the  above-mentioned 
group  of  houses ,  we  may  thence  reach  the  Punta  Tragara  by  the  foot- 
path mentioned   on  p.  156. 

From  Capri  to  Anacapri  (20  minutes'  drive ;  s/i  hr.  on  foot). 
A  road  in  long  windings  hewn  in  the  rock,  constructed  in  1871, 
now  supersedes  the  flight  of  535  steps  (to  the  foot  of  which  249 
more  ascended  from  the  Marina)  which  used  to  form  the  chief  ap- 
proach to  the  higher  parts  of  the  island.  This  road  commands 
beautiful  views.  Above  it  rise  the  ruins  of  the  mediaeval  Castello 
di  Barbarossa,  named  after  the  pirate  who  destroyed  it  in  the 
16th  century. 

Anacapri.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Eden,  a  new  house,  opened  in  summer 
1893,  pens,  with  R.  10  fr.,  omnibus  1  fr. ;  Pakadiso,  in  the  Piazza,  near  the 
church,  R.  l-l'/2,  B.  1fe,  dej.  2,  D.  2  both  incl.  wine),  pens.  5  fr.,  with 
garden  and  view,  unpretending;  Convento,  in  a  suppressed  monastery, 
saidto  be  comfortable  and  to  command  line  views,  but  not  much  frequented. 
—  Trattoria,  with  the  sign  ReHaurant-Bottiglieria,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
village.  —  Furnished  Booms  in  several  houses. 

Psysicians,     Dr.  6reen;  Dr.  Cuomo;  Dr.  Axel  Munthe,  a  Swede. 

Anacapri  (880  ft.)  ,  the  second  little  town  in  the  island  ,  with 
2000  inhab.,  is  scattered  over  the  lofty  plain  which  slopes  towards 
the  W.,  and  has  recently  become  a  favourite  summer  residence  for 
German  visitors  and  others.  The  first  house  on  the  road,  to  the 
left ,  outside  thevillage,  is  the  Villa  Molaro,now  converted  into  a 
hotel  (Eden  Hotel,  see  above).  On  the  right  side  of  the  street,  in 
the  village,  adjoining  the  house  of  the  wine-merchant  Moll,  is  an 
old  convent  (now  an  hotel,  see  above),  with  a  handsome  court  and 
the  church  of  8.  Michele,  containing  a  majolica  pavement  of  the 
17th  century.  The  tower  of  the  church  of  S.  Sofia  commands  a  fine 
view.  —  Adjoining  Anacapri  is  thepleasant  village  of  Caprile. 

A  beautiful  walk  may  be  taken  to  the  "Migliera.  We  follow  the  lane 
to  the  E.  of  the  Paradiso  Hotel  for  250  paces,  towards  Jlonte  Solaro,  the 
base  of  which  is  skirted  by  a  dry  path  leading  in  '/s  hr.  to  the  S.  verge 
of  the  plateau  (fine  view).  About  200  paces  higher  up,  the  view  is  open 
as  far  as  the  Faraglioni.  On  the  return  we  enjoy  a  good  survey  of  the 
picturesque  villages  of  Anacapri  and  Caprile,  whose  houses  have  almost 
an  Oriental  appearance.  —  There  are  Roman  ruins  at  the  village  of 
Damecuta,  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  plateau,  where  a  villa  of  Tiberius 
once  stood. 

The  *  Ascent  op  Monte  Solaro  (1  hr.)  is  recommended  to  toler- 
able walkers.  The  route  is  easily  found.  We  quit  the  road  imme- 
diately beyond  the  garden  of  the  Villa  Molaro  (see  above),  and 
follow  the  lane  on  the  left  (as  we  come  from  Capri)  past  the  Villa 
Massimo  to  the  Villa  Qiulia.  (Here  is  the  junction  of  a  path  from 
the  Restaurant-Bottiglieria,  see  above.)  We  turn  to  the  left  and 
ascend  for  30  paces  to  the  right,  by  the  wall  of  the  villa-garden,  to  the 


158   Route  9.  CAPRI.  Blue  Grotto. 

iath  along  the  slope,  which  we  follow  towards  the  S.E.  Farther 
m  we  pass  through  a  hollow  and  ascend  by  steps  supported  by 
nasonry  to  (_l/.>  hr.)  a  saddle  with  a  shrine  of  the  Madonna  (lefc). 
from  this  point  we  may  proceed  to  the  right  direct  to  the  summit, 
vhich  we  reach  after  a  fatiguing  ascent  of  15-20  min.  over  deTms. 
)r  we  may  go  on  in  a  straight  direction  for  0  min.  and  then  turn  to 
he  left  to  (2  min.)  the  white  wall  of  the -Hermitage  (1625  ft.),  where 
projecting  platform  commands  a  most  picturesque  view  of  the 
own  of  Capri  and  the  whole  of  the  beautiful  island.  From  the  Her- 
nitage  there  are  also  15-20  min.  to  the  summit  of  the  *Monte 
iolaro  (1920  ft.),  which  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea,  on  the  S.  side 
if  the  island,  and  is  crowned  by  a  ruined  fort.  The  view  is  superb, 
unbracing  Naples  with  the  whole  of  its  bay,  as  well  as  that  of 
lalerno  as  far  as  Paestum.  Towards  the  N.  the  Bay  of  Gaeta  is 
isible  ,  and  towards  the  W.  the  group  of  the  Ponza  Islands.  The 
pectator  also  obtains  a  survey  of  the  chain  of  the  Apennines,  bound- 
ng  theCampanianplaininawide  curve  fromTerracina,  theAbruzzi, 
he  Matese  Mts.  (p.  10),  and  a  long  vista  of  sea  and  land  extend- 
ng  to  the  S.  to  the  hills  of  Calabria.  Capri  itself  and  the  pen- 
asula  of  Sorrento  lie  in  prominent  relief  at  the  spectator's  feet. 
?he  charm  of  this  view  is  at  its  highest  by  moonlight  or  at  sunrise. 


BlUB  GkottO.  —  A  visit  to  the  Blue  Grotto  from  the  Marina  at 
iapri  occupies  l3/*"2  hrs.  If  the  wind  blows  strongly  from  the  E.  or  N., 
ccess  to  the  grotto  is  impossible.  The  skiffs  are  not  allowed  to  take 
lore  than  three  passengers.  The  official  tariff  of  the  Municipio  of  Capri 
xes  the  charges  as  follows :  a.  Boat  from  the  steamer  into  the  grotto  and 
ack,  l'/4  fr.  each  person;  5.  From  the  Banehina  di  Capri  (Marina  Grande) 
nd  back,  1  pers.  2'A,  2  pers.  33/4,  3  pers.  4'/4  fr.,  5  or  more  pers.  l'/2  fr- 
ach.  The  hire  of  the  small  skiff  entering  the  grotta  is  included  in  these 
harges  ('Nei  suddetti  prezzi  e  compreso  il  noleggio  del  piccolo  battello 
er  Tentrata  alia  Grotta  Azzurra,  che  percio  andra  a  carico  dei  barca- 
loli').  The  stay  in  the  grotto  is  limited  to  l/t  hr.,  and  an  extra  charge 
f  30  c.  is  made  for  every  1/t  hr.  additional.  When  a  boat  is  hired  at  the 
Carina  the  boatman  should  at  once  be  referred  to  the  tariff,  as  it  is  a 
ivourite  practice  to  endeavour  to  make  the  traveller  pay,  in  addition  to 
le  tariff-price,  the  charge  of  l*/4  fr.  per  head  required  by  the  manager  at 
he  grotto ,  when  the  large  boat  is  exchanged  for  the  skiffs  entering  the 
rotto.  That  extra  charge  is  to  be  paid,  as  stated  above,  by  the  boatman 
■om  the  Marina.  Most  travellers,  however,  must  be  prepared  to  bestow 
onsiderable  gratuities. 

The  Blue  Grotto  is  situated  on  the  N.  side  of  the  island,  about 
l/t  M.  from  the  landingrplace  of  Capri.  The  row  along  the  base 
f  the  precipitous  rocky  shore  is  exceedingly  beautiful ;  the  sur- 
ice  of  the  water  swarms  with  gaily-coloured  sea-stars  and  jelly-fish, 
n  l/i  hr.  we  reach  the  ruins  of  the  Baths  of  Tiberius,  where  a  frag- 
lent  of  an  ancient  wall  and  partof  a  column  in  the  water  are  to 
e  seen,  and  in  !/2  hr.  more  we  arrive  at  the  entrance  of  the  **Blue 
■rotto  (Grotta  Azzurra),  which  is  scarcely  3  ft.  in  height.  Visitors 
lust  here  leave  the  larger  boat  and  enter  one  of  the  small  skiffs 
rat  are  usually  waiting  at  midday.    In  the  interior  the  roof  rises 


Grotta  Verde.  CAPRI.  9.  Route.  159 

to  a  height  of  41  ft.;  the  water  is  8  fathoms  deep.  Length  of  the 
grotto  175ft.,  greatest  width  100  ft.  The  effect  of  the  blue  refraction 
of  the  light  on  every  object  is  indescribable,  and  at  first  completely 
dazzles  the  eye.  The  best  light  is  between  11  and  1  o'clock;  sum- 
mer is  the  bestseason.  Objects  in  the  water  assume  a  beautiful  silvery 
appearance.  A  boy  usually  offers  to  bathe  in  order  to  show  this 
effect,  and  is  sufficiently  rewarded  with  1  fr.,  although  he  generally 
makes  the  exorbitant  demand  of  2-3  fr.  The  visitor  may  then  repeat 
the  experiment  with  his  own  arm.  Near  the  middle  of  the  grotto, 
to  the  right,  is  a  kind  of  landing-place,  leading  to  a  passage  with 
broken  steps,  but  closed  at  the  upper  end,  once  probably  an  ap- 
proach from  the  land  to  the  grotto,  which  was  perhaps  connected 
with  the  villa  of  Tiberius  at  Damecuta.  The  grotto,  which  was 
known  to  the  ancients,  fell  into  oblivion  in  the  middle  ages,  but 
since  1826,  when  it  was  re-discovered,  it  has  justly  been  a  favourite 
attraction. 

Anacapri  is  reached  by  a  tolerable  path,  beginning  near  the  Blue 
Grotto. 

The  Blue  Grotto  is  the  most  celebrated  of  the  caverns  with 
which  the  rocky  shores  of  Capri  abound,  but  some  of  the  others 
are  also  well  worth  visiting.  The  *Giro  ,  or  Voyage  round  the 
Island,  occupies  3-4  hrs.  (boats,  see  p.  153).  Steering  from  the 
Marina  towards  the  E.,  we  first  reach  a  charming  spot  on  the  beach, 
called  by  the  boatmen  Caterla.  Close  by  is  the  Orotta  del  Bove 
Marino,  one  of  the  most  spacious  caves  in  Capri.  Farther  on  are 
two  curiously  shaped  rocks  in  the  sea,  called  II  Fucile  ('the  mus- 
ket') and  La  Ricotta  ('the  whey-milk  cheese').  Beyond  Capo  Tiberio 
we  visit  the  Grotta  delle  Stalattite  or  Orotta  Bianca ,  with  its  sta- 
lactite formations.  The  most  striking  part  of  the  trip  is  at  the 
Faraglioni  (p.  155),  which  rise  majestically  from  the  water.  The 
central  clilr  is  undermined  by  an  imposing  archway,  through  which 
the  boat  passes,  but  not  visible  from  the  land.  Rounding  the 
Punta  Tragara  (p.  155),  we  next  pass  the  Marina  Piccola(p.  155) 
and  in  25  min.  more  reach  the  Orotta  Verde,  at  the  base  of  the  Monte 
Solaro,  a  cavern  of  a  beautiful  emerald-green  colour,  and  the  most 
interesting  after  the  Blue  Grotto  (best  light  about  noon).  The 
voyage  hence  round  the  W.  side  of  the  island,  past  the  lighthouse 
on  the  S.W.  promontory  and  some  old  British  fortifications ,  to 
the  Blue  Grotto  is  less  attractive ,  but  this  cavern  may  now  be 
visited  as  an  appropriate  termination  to  the  excursion  (in  which 
.case  a  skiff  for  the  grotto  should  be  previously  ordered  to  meet  the 
traveller). 

10.  The  Gulf  of  Salerno. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  164. 

The  Bat  of  Salerno  cannot  indeed  compete  with  the  Bay  of  Naples ; 

towards  the  S.  its  shores  are  flat  and  monotonous ;  but  the  N.  side,  where 

the   mountains  of  the  Sorrentine   peninsula  rise  abruptly    some    thousands 

of  feet  from  the   sea,   is   full  of  beauty  and   grandeur.     Here  are  situated 


160   Route  10.  NOCERA.  Gulf  of 

he  towns  of  Salerno  and  Amalfi ,  conspicuous  in  the  pages  of  mediaeval 
listory,  and  still  containing  a  few  monuments  of  their  former  greatness, 
farther  S.,  in  a  barren,  desolate  situation,  are  the  temples  of  Paestum, 
lsually  the  extreme  point  of  the  Italian  peninsula  visited  by  northern 
xavellers.  All  these  recall  the  golden  period  of  Greek  history  and  art 
nore  forcibly  than  any  other  localities  in  Italy. 

This  route  may  conveniently  be  combined  with  the  preceding  (p.  143) 
is  follows:  First  Day:  Morning-train  to  Cava  dei  Tirreni;  excursion  to 
jorpo  di  Cava  (not  recommended  in  cold  weather);  in  the  afternoon  to 
Salerno.  Second  Day:  Morning-train  to  Paestum;  return  to  Salerno  and 
irive  to  Amalfi  (in  this  case  the  carr.  must  be  ordered  beforehand;  if 
he  return  be  made  to  Vietri,  a  carr.  is  always  to  be  found  at  the  station). 
Third  Day:  Amalfi;  excursion  to  Eavello.  Fourth  Day:  By  boat  to 
Prajano  and  drive  (carr.  ordered  beforehand)  across  the  hills  to  Sorrento 
the  road  to  Prajano,  however,  will  probably  be  completed  about  the  end 
)f  1892).  Fifth  Day:  By  boat  at  noon  to  Capri.  Sixth  Day:  Back  to 
Naples  by  steamer  in  the  afternoon.  It  need  scarcely  be  added  that  most  of 
hese  places,  especially  Amalfi  and  Capri,  will  repay  a  longer  visit. 

Railway  from  Naples  to  Cava  dei  Tirreni,  28  M.,  in  I1/4-274  brs. ;  fares 
)  fr.  10,  3  fr.  60,  2  fr.  30  c. ;  to  Salerno,  34  M.,  in  11/2-21/2  hrs.;  faTes  6  fr. 
.5,  4  fr.  30 ,  2  fr.  75  c.  (Vietri  is  the  station  for  Amalfi) ;  to  Battipaglia, 
=5  M.,  in  2-33/4  hrs.;  fares  8  fr.  25,  5  fr.  85,  3  fr.  75  c. 

From  Naples  to  Pompeii,  15  M.,  see  R.  6.  The  train,  after 
ruitting  the  Bay  of  Naples,  traverses  the  fertile  plain  of  the 
Sarno.  Maize  and  tobacco  are  extensively  cultivated  here ,  and 
:otton  is  also  grown.  15  M.  Voile  di  Pompei  (Hot. -Restaur.  Nuova 
Pompei,  in  the  piazza,  dej.  l1/^,  D.  2,/2-31/2  fr.,  bothincl.  wine; 
Trattoria  Lamberti,  at  the  station),  a  community  that  has  suddenly 
sprung  up  within  thelast  twenty  years  around  the  church  of  8.  Maria 
lei  Rosario,  with,  its  conspicuous  coloured  dome.  The  church  con- 
;ains  a  miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin,  which  is  visited  annually 
jy  100,000  pilgrims.  —  17  M.  Scafati,  with  manufactories.  Festi- 
val of  the  Madonna  del  Bagno  on  Ascension  Day  (see  p.  28). 

19^2  M.  Angri,  with  large  factories  and  the  chateau  and  park  of 
Principe  dAngri.  Teias,  the  last  king  of  the  Goths,  was  defeated  by 
Sarses  near  Angri  in  523,  after  having  descended  from  Lettere  on 
VIonte  Sant'  Angelo  to  the  plain.  A  new  mountain-road  is  being 
riade  from  Angri  to  Amalfi.  —  The  district  gradually  becomes  more 
mountainous,   and  the  scenery  is  picturesque  the  whole  way. 

21  M.  Pagani,  with  13,000  inhabitants.  In  the  church  of 
3.  Michele,  below  the  altar  of  a  chapel  to  the  left  of  the  choir, 
ire  preserved  (under  glass)  the  relics  of  Alphonso  de'  Liguori,  born 
it  Naples  in  1696,  bishop  of  S.  Agata  in  1762,  and  founder  of  the 
>rder  of  the  Redemptorists,  who  died  at  Pagani  in  1787  and  was 
;anonised  by  Gregory  XVI.  in  1839. 

From  Pagani  to  Amalfi.  From  Pagani  a  bridle-path  ascends  the  W. 
lope  of  the  Monte  di  Chiunzo.  Shortly  before  Torre  di  Chiunzo  (2250  ft.), 
-n  ancient  fortress  erected  by  Raimondo  Orsini ,  the  road  forks.  To  the 
eft  a  new  road  leads  through  the  Val  Tramonti  'between  the  mountains', 
'ia  Figlino  and  Patemo  to  Majori  (p.  168);  5-6  hrs.  in  all. 

22y2  M.  No c era  de'  Pagani,  a  town  of  some  importance  with 
arge  new  manufactories,  near  the  ancient  Nuceria  Alfaterna,  where 
Iugo  de'  Pagani ,  founder  of  the  order  of  the  Templars,    and  the 


Salerno.  CAVA  DEI  TIRRENI.         JO.  Route.    161 

painter  Francesco  Solimena  were  born,  and  where  Paulus  Jovius, 
the  historian,  was  bishop.  To  the  left  of  the  line,  above  the  exten- 
sive Capuchin  monastery,  rise  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Castello  in 
Parco,  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Helena ,  widow  of  King  Manfred, 
after  the  battle  of  Benevento  (1266).  At  the  close  of  the  14th  cent, 
the  castle  was  one  of  the  principal  strongholds  of  the  house  of 
Anjou.  Fine  view  from  the  summit.  Mater  Domini,  a  pilgrimage- 
resort  near  Nocera,  is  the  scene  of  an  important  festival  on  15th 
August.  —  Nocera  is  connected  with  Codola  (p.  175)  by  a  branch 
railway  (3  M.,  in  about  i/4  hr.;  fares  60,  40,  30  c). 

On  the  right,  shortly  before  the  train  reaches  the  small  village 
of  (25  M.)  Nocera  Superiore,  we  observe  the  ancient  baptismal  church 
of  8.  Maria  Maggiore,  similar  to  S.  Stefano  in  Rome.  The  basin  in 
the  centre  is  surrounded  by  eight  granite  columns,  enclosed  by 
a  circular  passage  with  sixteen  pairs  of  handsome  columns  of  pavo- 
nazzetto  with  rich  capitals,  all  antique.  The  walls  are  decorated 
with  frescoes  of  the  14th  century. 

Beyond  S.  Clemente  the  line  ascends  considerably.  On  emerg- 
ing from  a  cutting  the  train  reaches  — 

28M.  Cava  dei  Tirreni.  —  Hotels.  "Hotel  de  Londkes,  well-man- 
aged but  not  faultlessly  clean,  often  crowded  in  summer,  though  rather 
inconveniently  situated,  R.  3-5,  L.  3/t,  A.  1,  B.  I'/ij,  doj.  3,  D.  5,  pens. 
(L.  extra)  in  spring  and  autumn  10-12,  in  summer  6-8  fr. ;  "Hot.  Vittoeia, 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  3'/2,  B.  1,  d<Sj.  3,  D.  4  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  8,  omn.  1  fr. ; 
Hotel  de  Geneve,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3,  dej.  2l/z,  D.  3'/2  (both  incl.  wine),  pens. 
6  fr. ;  "Pension  Suisse,  5-6  fr.  per  day.  —  Good  furnished  lodgings. 

Carriages.  With  one  horse :  drive  in  the  town  50,  first  hr.  90,  each 
hr.  additional  65  c.  (after  10  p.m.,  90  c,  1  fr.  40,  80  c);  with  two  horses 
1  fr.,  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  30  c.  (after  10  p.m.  1  fr.  80,  2  fr.  80,  1  fr.  80  c).  —  To 
Corpo  di  Cava,  with  one  horse  2,  there  and  back  3  fr. ;  two  horses,  3  and 
5  fr. ;  three  horses,  5  and  6  fr. ;  these  fares  include  halt  of  1  hr. ;  for  longer 
halt,  one-horse  carr.  1/2,  two-horse  1  fr.  per  hr.  —  Donkey  to  Corpo  di 
Cava  IV2-2  fr.,  there  and  back  2-3  fr. 

Cava  dei  Tirreni  (980  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  situated  among 
green  hills  dotted  with  villages,  is  a  favourite  resort  of  foreigners 
in  spring  and  autumn  and  in  summer  of  the  Neapolitans,  and  a 
good  centre  for  excursions  to  Amalft,  Paestum,  Pompeii,  etc.  The 
town  (21,000  inhab.,  including  the  suburbs)  mainly  consists  of  a 
street  i/a  M.  long,  with  arcades,  leading  from  the  station  to  the  Piazza, 
where  a  church  and  a  large  fountain  are  situated.  Adjoining  is  the 
Villa  Pubblica  (public  garden),  where  a  band  plays  on  summer  even- 
ings. —  The  best  view  of  the  town  and  its  environs  is  obtained  from 
the  Monte  Castello  to  the  S.  W.  (there  and  back  1  hr.).  From  La 
Valle,  a  little  farther  on,  Salerno  and  its  bay  are  visible.  —  The 
slender  round  towers  on  the  hills  about  Cava  are  erected  for  the 
capture  of  wild  pigeons,  which  fly  over  the  valley  in  huge  flocks 
in  October.  As  the  flocks  pass  the  towers,  small  white  stones  are 
thrown  out,  which  the  pigeons  mistake  for  food;  as  they  stoop  to 
follow  the  supposed  grains,  they  are  caught  by  nets. 

The  attractive  *Excursion  to  Corpo  di  Cava,  l'/4  hr.  to  the 

Baedeker.     Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  H 


162      Route  10.         .    CORPO  DI  CAVA.  Gulf  of 

S.W.,  takes  Y2  day  either  on  foot  or  by  carriage.  Leaving  the  Piazza 
we  ascend  the  road  to  the  left  by  the  church.  After  5  min.,  when 
the  road  turns  to  the  right  round  the  public  garden,  we  ascend  by 
the  shorter  path  to  the  left  by  a  church,  and  farther  on  between 
walls,  past  the  red-painted  tobacco  manufactory,  to  the  church  and 
houses  of  8.  Arcangelo.  Here  we  again  quit  the  road,  which  goes 
to  the  right  to  Passiano,  and  follow  the  path  to  the  left.  It  de- 
scends, crosses  a  ravine  by  a  bridge,  and  again  gradually  ascends  to 
the  right,  enclosed  by  walls,  but  a  view  is  soon  obtained  of  Cava 
dei  Tirreni  and  of  the  Bay  of  Salerno.  In  Y2  hr.  (from  S.  Arcan- 
gelo) we  arrive  at  the  church  of  Pietra  Santa,  so  called  from  a  rock 
in  front  of  the  high-altar,  on  which  Pope  Urban  II.  dismounted  in 
1095,  when  he  consecrated  the  convent  of  La  Cava;  the  church 
itself  dates  from  the  17th  century.  Pine  view.  Beyond  Pietra  Santa 
we  skirt  the  wood  for  8  min.  and  reach  the  high-road,  which  soon 
afterwards  crosses  the  viaduct  to  Corpo  di  Cava.  Here  the  road  di- 
vides, leading  to  the  right  to  the  village,  and  to  the  left  (5  min.) 
to  the  monastery. 

The  village  of  Corpo  di  Cava  (*Albergo  Scapolatiello,  with  gar- 
den, pens.  5  fr. ;  Albergo  Adinolfi,  both  rustic)  stands  on  the  rock 
against  which  the  monastery  is  built,  above  a  beautiful  narrow 
valley  with  several  mills.  The  air  is  pure  and  the  situation  beauti- 
ful, so  that  visitors  often  make  a  prolonged  stay  here. 

The  famous  Benedictine  abbey  of  *La  Trinita  della  Cava  was 
founded  in  1011 ,  in  the  time  of  Guaimar  III.  of  Salerno,  by  St. 
Alferius,  a  member  of  a  noble  Lombard  family,  and  stands  above 
the  cavern  which  the  saint  had  previously  occupied.  It  is  now 
national  property  and  is  maintained  like  Monte  Cassino,  the  abbot 
being  keeper  of  the  Archives.  It  contains  a  lyceum  and  boarding- 
school,  patronised  by  the  upper  classes.  The  present  buildings, 
dating  from  the  18th  cent.,  stand  partly  on  the  old  foundations. 

Visitors  are  admitted  in  the  forenoon  and  receive  a  guide,  who 
first  shows  the  rooms  of  the  old  convent,  containing  ancient  mural 
paintings,  the  tomb  of  the  anti-pope  Gregory  VIII.  (1118-21),  the  skulls 
of  numerous  Lombard  and  Norman  princes  who  were  buried  in  the 
abbey,  and  the  cave  of  S.  Alferius.  The  Church  (with  two  marble  urns 
and  the  tomb  of  Queen  Sibilla  at  the  entrance)  contains  three  large  sarco- 
phagi of  coloured  marble  with  the  remains  of  the  first  three  abbots  (chapel 
to  the  right  of  the  highaltar)  and  a  reliquary  with  the  pectoral  cross  of 
Urban  II.  (see  above).  The  pulpit  with  its  mosaics  (12th  cent.)  belonged  to 
the  old  church.  The  organ  is  one  of  the  best  in  Italy.  —  The  Archives  of 
the  monastery  (shown  in  the  forenoon  only)  are  of  great  value,  and  contain 
a  number  of  important  documents  on  parchment  in  uninterrupted  succes- 
sion; the  catalogue  comprises  8  vols.  Among  the  valuable  MSS.  are  the 
Codex  Legum  Longobardorum  of  1004,  a  prayer-book  with  miniatures  of 
the  school  of  Fra  Angelico  da  Fiesole,  the  Latin  Biblia  Vnlgata  of  the 
7th  cent.,  etc.  The  small  Pinacoteca,  or  picture-gallery,  contains  two  fine 
altar-piece3  of  the  early  Umbrian  school  (Resurrection  and  Adoration  of 
the  Magi),  revealing  the  influence  of  Raphael. 

"We  may  return  by  the  Bonea,  a  grotto  with  a  small  waterfall. 

A  pleasant  afternoon  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  top  of  Monte 
S.   Liberatore    (1516  ft.),   to    the   S.E.   of  Cava   dei  Tirreni,   which   com- 


Salerno.  SALERNO.  10.  Route.      163 

mands  a  magnificent  *View.  A  road  leads  to  a  group  of  houses  (Cafe')  near 
the  foot  of  the  hill  (carr.  to  this  point  and  hack  5  fr.;  bargaining  necessary), 
whence  we  ascend,  passing  a  venerable  evergreen  oak,  to  the  summit,  the 
last  part  of  the  way  in  zig 


The  train  now  traverses  a  beautiful  district,  and  soon  affoids  a 
view  of  the  Bay  of  Salerno  ;  in  10  min.  it  reaches  — 

30!/2  M.  Vietri  (Loc.  Rosa ,  plain) ,  charmingly  situated ,  with 
several  villas.  Pop.  9000.  Above  the  town  a  promenade,  com- 
manding beautiful  views,  has  lately  been  constructed. 

Passengers  may  alight  here  and  take  a  carriage  (drive  of  ■/«  nr-)  down 
to  Salerno  (2  fr. ,  single  seat  1/2  fr.).  The  road  descends,  commanding  a 
view  of  the  sea,  and  aftords  a  pleasant  walk.  High  above,  along  the  rocks 
of  Monte  S.  IAberatore  to  the  left,  runs  the  railway.  Carriage  to  Amalfi 
(p.  169)  less  expensive  here  than  at  Salerno  (a  drive  of  2-2V2  hrs. ;  with 
one  horse  3-4,  with  two  5-6,  with  three  9-10  fr.,  and  fee  of  1  fr.;  one-horse 
carr.  to  Amalfi  and  thence  to  Salerno  6  fr.  and  fee  of  1  fr.) ;  diligence  from 
yietri  to  Amalfi  twice  daily  (forenoon  and  evening,  returning  early  in  the 
morning  and  at  noon). 

The  railway,  supported  by  galleries,  and  passing  through  four 
tunnels,  the  last  of  which  penetrates  the  castle-hill,  descends  ra- 
pidly hence  to  Salerno. 

34  M.  Salerno.  —  The  Railway  Station  lies  at  the  E.  end  of  the 
town,  a  considerable  way  from  the  principal  hotels. 

Hotels.  "Hotel  d'Inghilterra,  Corso  Garibaldi  34,  with  view  of  the 
bay,  B.,  L.,  &  A.  3y2,  B.  I1/4,  dej.  3,  D.  5  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  8-10  fr. ; 
Vittokia,  Via  Indipendenza  31,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  town,  some  distance 
from  the  station,  similar  prices.  —  Albeego  &  Trattoria  del  Vesuvio, 
E.  3,  pens.  5-6  fr. 

Trattorie.  "Genlrale,  Corso  Garibaldi  96,  frequented  by  officers; 
Gontinentale,  Corso  Garibaldi  11;  Roma,  Corso  Garibaldi  8,  unpretending 
and  moderate,  good  red  wine.  —  Cafes.    Several  on  the  Corso  Garibaldi. 

Sea-Baths  near  the  Marina,  similar  to  those  at  Naples  (p.  24). 

Carriages.  From  the  railway  to  the  town  with  one  horse  50  c,  with 
two  horses  1  fr. ;  at  night  70  c.  or  IV2  fr. ;  one  hour  1  or  2  fr.,  at  night 
IY2  or  2'/2  fr.  —  For  drives  in  the  neighbourhood  a  previous  agreement 
should  always  be  made.  To  Amalfi  with  one  horse  6-8,  with  two  horses 
8-10  fr.  —  Single  travellers  may  avail  themselves  of  one  of  the  swift  but 
•uncomfortable  corricoli  (two-wheeled ,  rustic  vehicles ;  the  driver  stands 
behind  the  passenger) ,  but  a  stipulation  should  be  made  that  no  second 
passenger  be  taken  up  by  the  way;  to  Amalfi  (tutto  compreso),  according 
to  circumstances  2>/2-4  fr. 

Rowing  or  Sailing  Boat  (according  to  bargain)  1-1 1/2  fr.  per  hour;  to 
Amalfi  8-10  fr.,  according  to  the  number  of  rowers. 

English  Vice-Consul,  Signor  Pio  Consiglio. 

Popular  Festival  on  the  eve  and  day  of  St.  Matthew,  20th-21st  Sept., 
with  fireworks  and  illumination,  which  are  best  seen  irom  a  boat  (4-5  fr.). 

Salerno ,  the  ancient  Salernum ,  delightfully  situated  at  the 
N.  extremity  of  the  bay,  and  bounded  on  the  E.  by  fertile 
plains,  is  the  seat  of  the  local  government  and  of  an  archbishop, 
and  the  chief  residence  of  the  numerous  local  aristocracy.  Pop. 
20,000,  of  the  commune  31,200.  The  old  town,  rising  on  the 
slope  of  the  so-called  Apennine,  with  narrow  and  irregular  streets, 
recalls  the  9th  and  10th  centuries,  when  the  Lombards  occupied 
it,  the  11th  cent,  when  it  belonged  to  the  Normans,  and  lastly 
the  period   when   the   houses   of  Hohenstaufen   and  Anjou  were 

11* 


164     Route  10.  SALERNO.  Gulf  of 

masters  of  the  place ,  and  when  Salerno  enjoyed  the  reputation 
of  being  the  greatest  medical  school  in  Europe. 

The  quay,  l'^lVL  in  length,  called  the  Corso  Garibaldi,  affords 
a  beautiful  walk.  Here  is  a  large  Theatre,  with  some  flower-beds 
and  clusters  of  trees  adjacent.  At  the  "W.  end  is  the  Harbour, 
recently  protected  against  the  encroaching  sand  by  a  large  but 
deserted  Molo.  To  the  E.  of  the  theatre  is  the  post-office  and  the 
monument  of  Carlo  Pisacana,  Duke  of  S.  Giovanni,  'precursore  di 
Garibaldi',  a  Genoese,  who  participated  in  the  attempts  to  revolu- 
tionise Italy  in  1857,  landed  in  Calabria,  and  perished  while  en- 
deavouring to  escape.  The  large  building  between  the  two  sentry- 
boxes,  about  100  paces  farther,  is  the  Prefettura,  past  which  a 
narrow  street  to  the  left  leads  to  the  — 

*Cattbdbale  S.  Matteo,  erected  in  1084  by  Robert  Guiscard. 
The  restoration  of  1768  has  deprived  the  edifice  of  much  of  its 
simple  grandeur,  but  it  still  merits  a  visit.  The  steps  ascend  to 
an  atrium,  surrounded  by  twenty- eight  antique  columns  from 
Psestum.  In  the  centre  formerly  stood  a  granite  basin  which  is 
now  in  the  Villa  Nazionale  at  Naples  (p.  32).  Along  the  walls 
are  ranged  fourteen  ancient  Sarcopkagi,  which  were  used  by  the 
Normans  and  their  successors  as  Christian  burying -places.  The 
bronze  doors  adorned  in  niello  ,  executed  at  Constantinople,  were 
given  by  Landolfo  Butromile  in  1099. 

Inteeioe.  Above  the  door  is  a  large  mosaic  of  St.  Matthew,  .of  the  Nor- 
man period.  The  Nave  contains  two  ambones  or  reading-desks,  and  an  archi- 
episcopal  throne,  richly  decorated  with  mosaic  by  Giovanni  of  Procida,  the 
foe  of  Charles  of  Adjou.  In  the  N.  aisle  is  the  *Tomb  of  Margaret  of  Anjou 
(d.  1412),  wife  of  Charles  of  Durazzo  and  mother  of  Ladislaus  and  Johanna II., 
by  Baooccio  da  Piperno,  with  the  painting  almost  intact.  Opposite  is  the 
tomb  of  Bishop  Nic.  Piscicelli  (d.  1471).  The  Cappella  del  Sacramento,  at  the 
end  of  this  aisle,  contains  a  Pieta  by  Andrea  da  Salerno,  the  composition 
of  which  is  open  to  criticism.  —  On  a  large  table  in  the  Sacristy  (in  the 
N.  transept) :  Scenes  from  the  Old  and  New  Testament,  on  numerous  carv- 
ed ivory  tablets,  perhaps  of  early-Christian  workmanship.  —  The  Choir  con- 
tains a  pavement  and  balustrade  of  Norman  mosaic  and  two  columns  of 
verde  antico.  —  In  the  South  Aisle,  at  the  end,  is  the  tomb  of  Hildebrand, 
afterwards  Pope  Gregory  VII.,  who  died  here  on  25th  May,  1085,  after  he  had 
been  banished  from  Rome  by  Henry  IV.  The  monument  was  restored  in  1578 
by  Archbishop  Colonna;  the  statue  and  the  frescoes  are  modern,  and  the 
mosaic  in  the  dome  has  been  restored.  To  the  left  is  the  monument  of  Arch- 
oishop  Caraffa,  adorned  with  a  relief  from  Psestum :  Rape  of  Proserpine. 
Farther  on  in  the  same  aisle  are  tombs  of  a  bishop  and  a  knight,  antique 
sarcophagi  with  Bacchanalian  representations.  —  Here,  beside  an  ancient 
relief  representing  a  ship  discharging  its  cargo ,  steps  descend  to  the 
richly  decorated  Crypt ,  which  is  said  to  contain  the  remains  of  the 
Evangelist  St.  Matthew,  brought  from  the  East  in  930.  In  front  of  a 
side-altar  is  the  stump  of  a  column,  on  which  three  saints  are  said  to 
have  been  beheaded. 

In  S.  Lorenzo  some  frescoes  recently  discovered  under  the 
whitewash  are  also  ascribed  to  Andrea  (Sabbatini)  of  Salerno, 
the  most  eminent  Renaissance  painter  in  S.  Italy.  Authentic 
works  by  this  master,  whose  style  reflects  the  influence  of  Raphael, 
may  be  seen  in  the  churches  of  8.  Giorgio  (Madonna  with  saints 


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Salerno.  PAESTUM.  10.  Route.      165 

and  donors,  dated  1523 ;  2nd  altar  on  the  right)  and  S.  Agostino 
(Madonna  with  two  saints,  2nd  altar  to  the  left;  the  SS.  Augustine 
and  Paul  at  the  sides  of  the  high-altar  are  school-pieces).  Both  these 
churches  are  situated  between  the  Prefettura  and  the  cathedral. 

On  the  hill  (900  ft.)  lie  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Castle  of  the 
Lombard  princes,  which  was  taken  by  Robert  Guiscard  after  a  siege 
of  eight  months.  The  view  repays  the  ascent.  Passing  the  cathedral 
we  take  the  'Salita  del  Castello'  and  turn  to  the  right  a  little  above 
the  Carceri  (prison) ;  farther  up,  the  path  becomes  steep  ;  at  the  top, 
3/4  hr.,  is  a  cottage  (fee,of  a  few  soldi.) 

A  pleasant  drive  (2  hrs.,  carr.  4-5  fr.;  railway  in  progress)  may  be 
taken  from  Salerno  through  the  Irno  Valley  to  S.  Severino  (p.  175),  with 
which  a  visit  to  Monte  Vergine  (p.  175)  may  be  combined.  On  the  way 
we  pass  Fratte ,  the  largest  Swiss  colony  in  Italy ,  with  extensive  manu- 
factories, and  Baronisi,  the  scene  of  Fra  Diavolo's  capture. 

The  train  as  it  proceeds  affords  a  charming  view  of  the  bay  and 
Capri  to  the  right,  and  of  the  mountains  to  the  left.  —  39  M.  Ponte- 
cagna.no;  44  M.  Montecorvino. 

45^2  M.  Battipaglia,  junction  of  the  railway  to  Paestum  and 
Pisciotta,  see  below. 

Paestum. 

The  expedition  to  Paestum  is  most  conveniently  made  from  Cava  dei 
Tirreni  (p.  161)  or  Salerno,  where  the  night  before  should  be  spent.  It 
may  also  be  accomplished  from  Naples  in  a  single  day,  but  the  long  and 
fatiguing  railway-  journey  is  a  drawback  in  this  case.  In  the  interval 
between  the  arrival  of  the  train  from  Naples  (about  noon)  and  the  depart- 
ure of  the  next  train  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  solemn  stillness  which 
usually  hangs  over  the  temples  is  rudely  disturbed  by  numerous  tourists. 
Those  who  desire  to  see  the  ruins  under  more  favourable  conditions,  to 
examine  details,  and  to  make  the  circuit  of  the  ancient  town-wall,  must 
either  arrive  by  an  earlier  train  or  depart  by  a  later  one,  it  being  ad- 
visable in  the  latter  case  to  secure  night-quarters  at  Cava  or  Salerno  be- 
forei-and.  —  Admission  to  the  temples  on  week-days  1  fr.,  Sun.  free 
(ticket-office  near  the  temple  of  Neptune).  During  the  chief  tourist- 
season,  there  is  a  fair  buffet  at  the  station,  where  also  night-quarters 
may  be  obtained.  It  is  better,  however,  to  bring  provisions,  and  lunch 
at  the  temples,  on  the  town-walls,  or  on  the  beach. 

Railway  Fares.  From  Naples  to  Paestum,  express  -  fares  11  fr.  55, 
8  fr.  15,  5  fr.  30,  ordinary  fares  10  fr.  70,  7  fr.  50,  4  fr.  85  c,  return-tickets 
16  fr.  5,  11  fr.  30,  7  fr.  30  c.  (on  holidays,  12  fr.  5,  8  fr.  55,  6  fr.  5  a). 
From  Cava  dei  Tirreni  to  Paestum,  express  6  fr.  20,  4  fr.  30,  2  fr.  80  c, 
ordinary  5  fr.  60,  3  fr.  90,  2  fr.  55  c;  from  Cava  dei  Tirreni  to  Batti- 
paglia,  return -ticket,  4  fr.  75,  3  fr.  30,  2  fr.  20  c.  —  From  Salerno  to 
Psestum,  express  4  fr.  80,  3  fr.  45,  2  fr.  20  c,  ordinary  4  fr.  55,  3  fr.  20, 
1  fr.  10  C;  return-ticket  from  Salerno  to  Battipaglia,  6  fr.  85,  4  fr.  80, 
1  fr.  65  c.  No  return  tickets  are  issued  between  Cava  dei  Tirreni  or 
Salerno  and  Psestum;  but  travellers  have  time  to  secure  one  from  Batti- 
paglia to  Paestum  for  3  fr.  65,  1  fr.  70,  1  fr.  5. 

Battipaglia  (se  eabove)  is  reached  by  railway  from  Cava  dei  Tirreni 
in  I-IV2  nr->  from  Salerno  in  ^-^hr.,  from  Naples  in  23/4-33/4  hrs. 
—  The  Railway  pbom  Battipaglia  to  Ptestum  traverses  marshy 
plains,  enlivened  only  by  a  few  herds  of  buffaloes  and  other  cattle. 
Agriculture  ,  however,  has  been  making  some  progress  here  of  late 


166      Route  10.  P^ESTUM.  History. 

years,  and  the  malaria  is  diminishing  in  consequence.  —  Beyond 
(3i/2  M.)  8.  Niccolo  Varco ,  the  line  crosses  the  impetuous  river 
Sele,  the  ancient  Silarus.  Before  the  railway  was  built,  this  used 
to  be  considered  the  most  dangerous  part  of  the  road,  especially 
in  1860-70 ,  when  the  neighbourhood  was  haunted  by  the  daring 
brigand  Manzi.  —  8'/2  M.  Albanella;  11  M.  Capaccio.  —  Shortly 
before  reaching  (13  M.)  Paestum  (Ital.  Pesto),  we  catch  sight  of  the 
corner  of  the  old  town-wall  and  of  the  temples  behind.  —  The 
railway  goes  on  to  (16  M.)  Ogliastro ,  the  village  of  which  name 
lies  at  a  considerable  distance  to  the  left  on  the  hill,  (I8Y2  M.) 
Agropoli,  and  (42  M.)  Pisciotta,  whence  the  line  is  to  be  continued 
via  Castrocucco  (p.  207)  to  Gioia  Tauro  (p.  221). 

Psestum,  according  to  Strabo,  was  founded  by  Greeks  from  Sybaris 
about  the  year  B.C.  600,  and  its  ancient  name  of  Poseidonia  (city  of 
Neptune)  sufficiently  indicates  its  Greek  origin.  In  the  4th  cent,  the 
town  was  in  possession  of  the  Lucanians,  who  oppressed  the  inhabit- 
ants ;  and  at  that  period  the  citizens  used  to  celebrate  a  festival  an- 
nually in  memory  of  their  Greek  origin  and  their  former  prosperity. 
After  the  defeat  of  Pyrrhus  ,  Poseidonia  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Romans,  who  in  B.  O.  273  founded  the  colony  of  Paestum  here.  In 
the  war  against  Hannibal  the  town  remained  faithful  to  Rome.  At 
a  later  period  it  gradually  fell  to  decay,  and  as  early  as  the  reign  of 
Augustus  was  notorious  for  its  malarious  air.  Christianity  took  root 
here  at  an  early  period.  When  the  Saracens  devastated  Paestum  in 
the  9th  cent.,  the  inhabitants  fled  with  their  bishop  to  the  neigh- 
bouring heights,  and  there  founded  Capaccio  Vecchio.  In  the  11th 
cent,  the  deserted  town  was  despoiled  by  Robert  Guiscard  of  its 
monuments  and  sculptures,  and  remained  in  this  desolate  condition 
for  many  centuries ,  till  in  modern  times  attention  was  again 
directed  to  the  antiquities  still  remaining.  Those  who  appreciate 
the  simple  majesty  of  Greek  architecture  should  endeavour ,  if 
possible,  before  quitting  Naples,  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  temples  at 
Paestum,  which  are,  with  the  single  exception  of  those  at  Athens, 
the  finest  existing  monuments  of  the  kind. 

The  railway  -  station  is  situated  immediately  to  the  E.  of  the 
ancient  town.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  the  remains  of  an  aqueduct 
and  fragments  of  ancient  paving.  "We  enter  the  town,  which  was 
surrounded  by  massive  walls,  through  the  Porta  delta  Sirena,  so 
called  from  the  small  relief  of  a  siren  on  the  outer  keystone  of  the 
archway.  On  the  inner  keystone  is  a  scarcely  recognizable  relief  of 
a  dolphin.  Proceeding  thence  along  the  wall  enclosing  the  Villa 
Salati  we  reach  the  high  road  in  8  min.,  which  traverses  the  an- 
cient town  from  N.  to  S.  Here  suddenly  opens  the  view  of  the  ruins : 
to  the  left  are  the  temple  of  Neptune  and  the  so-called  Basilica, 
and  to  the  right  the  temple  of  Ceres.  The  keeper  awaits  the  visitors 
at  the  temple  of  Neptune  (adm.  see  p.  165). 

The  largest  and  most  beautiful  of  the  three  temples  is  the  so- 


Temple  of  Neptune.  VJE8TWI.  10.  Route.     1 67 

called  **TempIe  of  Neptune,  63  yds.  in  length,  and  28  yds.  in  width. 
At  each  end  are  six  massive,  fluted  Doric  columns,  28  ft.  in  height; 
on  each  side  twelve,  in  all  thirty-six  columns  of  7^2  ft.  in  dia- 
meter, all  well-preserved.  In  the  interior  of  the  Cella  are  two  series 
of  seven  columns  each  (about  6  ft.  in  diameter),  with  a  second  row 
of  smaller  columns  above,  which  supported  the  roof.  On  the  S.  side 
5,  and  on  the  N.  side  3  columns  are  still  standing.  The  stone  is  a 
kind  of  travertine,  to  which  age  has  imparted  a  mellow  tone.  It  con- 
tains fossil  reeds  and  aquatic  plants.  The  whole  was  once  covered 
with  stucco,  in  order  to  conceal  the  imperfections  of  the  stone.  The 
proportions  of  the  symmetrically  tapering  columns,  whether  viewed 
from  the  vicinity  or  from  a  distance,  are  perfect.  This  temple,  as 
its  whole  character  betokens ,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  specimens 
of  Greek  art.  Photographs  and  models  of  it  are  frequently  seen 
(comp.  Introd.,  p.  xxix).  A  stone  basis  in  front  of  the  E.  facade 
probably  belonged  to  a  large  sacrificial  altar. 

A  little  to  the  S.  rises  the  second  temple,  the  so-called  *Basi- 
lica  (a  misnomer),  of  more  reoent  origin,  but  also  of  great  an- 
tiquity. It  is  60  yds.  in  length,  and  26^2  yds.  in  width,  and  its 
fifty  columns  are  each  6!^  ft.  in  diameter,  but  its  proportions  and 
colouring  are  less  imposing  than  those  of  the  temple  of  Neptune. 
At  each  end  are  nine  columns ,  and  on  each  side  sixteen,  all  of 
travertine  stone.  The  shafts  of  the  columns  taper  upwards  in  a 
curve ;  the  capitals  are  of  a  peculiar  form  not  elsewhere  met  with. 
A  series  of  columns  in  the  centre,  by  a  singular  arrangement,  di- 
vided the  temple  into  two  halves,  so  that  it  contained  two  'cellae'. 

In  front  of  these  temples  probably  extended  the  Forum  of 
the  ancient  town ,  basements  for  altars  or  statues  being  still 
distinguishable  here. 

Farther  N.  stands  the  small  *  Temple  of  Ceres,  or  of  Vesta 
according  to  others,  with  a  peristyle  of  thirty-four  columns,  six 
at  each  end,  and  eleven  on  each  side.  Length  35  yds.,  width 
15  yds. ;  columns  5  ft.  in  diameter,  tapering  upwards  in  straight 
lines.  The  columns  of  the  vestibule  are  distinguished  from  those 
of  the  principal  part  of  the  structure  by  the  difference  of  the  fluting. 
This  temple  is  of  somewhat  later  date  than  the  others,  but  is  also  a 
fine  example  of  the  simple  and  majestic  Greek  style. 

The  temples  are  overgrown  with  a  luxuriant  crop  of  ferns  and 
acanthus,  enlivened  by  grasshoppers,  lizards,  and  a  few  snakes. 

Between  the  Temple  of  Ceres  and  that  of  Neptune  a  few  frag- 
ments of  Roman  building  have  been  discovered,  a  Theatre  and 
Amphitheatre,  it  is  believed.  The  latter  is  intersected  by  the  road. 
A  Roman  Temple  was  also  discovered  here  in  1830.  Concealed 
among  the  underwood  near  it  are  two  metopae,  adorned  with  high 
reliefs.  These  remains,  however,  are  insignificant  compared  with  the 
ruins  above  mentioned.  —  Of  the  'rose-gardens'  of  Paestum,  so 
much  extolled  by  Roman  poets,  no  traces  now  exist. 


168    Route  10.  MAJORI.  Gulf  of 

Without  the  N.  gate,  the  so-called  Porta  Aurea,  was  a  Street 
of  Tombs.  Several  of  those  which  have  been  opened  contained 
Greek  weapons  ;  and  in  one  of  them,  examined  in  1854,  were  found 
the  fine  mural  paintings  mentioned  at  p.  59. 

A  walk  on  the  ancient  Town-Walls  ,  about  3  M.  in  circum- 
ference, formed  of  blocks  of  travertine  and  preserved  almost  entire, 
will  enable  the  traveller,  better  than  a  close  inspection,  to  form 
an  idea  of  the  imposing  grandeur  of  these  venerable  ruins.  The 
finest  general  *  View  of  the  temples  is  obtained  from  the  terrace  of 
the  tower  to  the  E.  of  the  Porta  delta  Giustizia ,  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  town-wall. 

Amain. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  164. 

From  Salerno  to  Amalfi,  about  12l/2  M.,  carriage  by  the  high-road 
in  2'/2-3  hrs.  From  Vietri,  about  9'/2  or  10  M.,  carriage  in  2-2>/2  hrs. 
Recommended  also  to  walkers. 

Between  Naples  and  Amain  service  is  maintained  from  Oct.  to  March 
by  the  steamer  of  the  Florio-Rubattino  Company  plying  once  a  week  from 
Naples  to  Messina  (leaving  the  Immacolatella  at  Naples  on  Thurs.  at  5  p.m., 
reaching  Amalfi  at  9  p.m. ;  leaving  Amalfi  on  the  return  voyage  on  Wed. 
at  6  a.m.,  and  reaching  Naples  at  10  a.m.). 

The  ** High  Koad  from  Salbrno  to  Amalfi,  completed  in 
1852,  is  still  more  attractive  than  that  from  Oastellammare  to 
Sorrento  (p.  147).  It  is  nearly  the  whole  way  hewn  in  the  cliffs  of 
the  coast,  and  frequently  supported  by  galleries  and  vast  viaducts 
100-500  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  slopes  are  generally  somewhat 
bare,  but  are  in  many  places  laid  out  in  terraces,  and  planted  with 
vines,  olives,  lemons,  and  fruit-trees.  The  massive  square  watch- 
towers  ,  erected  under  Charles  V.  as  a  protection  against  pirates, 
are  now  partly  converted  into  dwellings. 

From  Salerno  the  road  ascends,  and  near  Vietri  (p.  163)  crosses 
the  valley  by  a  stone  bridge.  To  the  left  in  the  sea  rise  two 
conical  rocks,  /  Due  Fratelli.  On  the  hill  to  the  right  is  Raito. 
The  next  place  (jM/^M.)  is  the  picturesquely  situated  fishing-village 
of  Cetara,  extending  along  the  bottom  of  a  narrow  ravine ;  it  is 
frequently  mentioned  in  the  history  of  the  invasions  of  the  Sara- 
cens, and  was  the  first  place  where  they  settled.  The  road  now 
ascends  to  the  Capo  Tumolo,  whence  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the 
coast  on  both  sides  is  enjoyed,  and  descends  thence  by  the  Capo 
d'Orso,  where  the  fleet  of  Charles  V.  was  defeated  by  Filippino 
Doria.  On  the  right  opens  the  valley  of  S.  Maria,  in  which  a  foot- 
path ascends  to  the  ruined  monastery  of  Camaldoli  dell'  Avvocata, 
founded  in  1485.     We  soon  reach  (8  M.)  the  small  town  of  — 

Majori,  with  terraced  lemon-plantations  and  the  ancient  church 
of  8.  Maria  a  Mare ,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Tramonti,  which  is 
ascended  by  a  carriage-road  to  Chiunzi  (p.  160  j  splendid  view  of 
the  Bay  of  Naples).  On  the  right  in  this  valley  lies  the  ancient 
ruined  castle  of  S.  Nicola ,  of  which  the  Piccolomini  were  the  last 


Salerno.  AMALFI.  10.  Route.      169 

proprietors.  On  the  coast  near  Major!  is  the  interesting  grotto  of 
Pandone ,  resemhling  the  Blue  Grotto  at  Capri.  In  a  picturesque 
sheltered  situation  above  the  high-road ,  halfway  to  Minori,  is  the 
*Hdtel  Torre  (R.,  L.,  &  A.  3,  B.  1%  dej.  3,  D.  5  (both  incl.  wine), 
pens.  8-10  fr.),  an  excellent  quiet  resort  and  a  good  centre  for 
excursions. 

Minori,  a  clean  little  village,  with  lemon-gardens,  most  beau- 
tifully situated,  once  the  arsenal  of  Amain,  lies  at  the  mouth  of 
the  sometimes  turbulent  Beginolo.  —  The  road  to  Ravello  mentioned 
at  p.  171,  diverges  to.  the  right  near  Atrani. 

Atrani  lies  at  the  entrance  to  a  ravine,  on  each  side  of  which 
the  houses  rise  picturesquely.  The  church  of  S.  Salvatore  di 
Biretto,  on  the  Marina,  contains  handsome  bronze  doors ,  of  Byzan- 
tine workmanship  of  the  11th  cent.,  monuments  of  the  Doges  of 
Amalfl,  and  others  of  the  Saracenic  period.  Midnight  mass  is  per- 
formed here  on  Christmas  Eve,  when  the  town  and  hills  are  illumin- 
ated. Above  Atrani  is  the  village  of  Pontone,  halfway  to  which  is 
a  house  in  which  Masaniello  is  said  to  have  been  born  (but  comp. 
p.  39). 

A  lofty  rocky  eminence ,  bearing  the  extensive  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Pontone,  separates  Atrani  from  (2^4  M.)  Amalfl. 

Amalfl.  —  Hotels  (frequently  crowded  in  the  season;  rooms  should 
be  secured  In  advance).  *Gr.  Albergo  Cappuccini-Convento  ,  in  the  old 
Capuchin  monastery  (p.  170)  above  the  town,  with  fine  view,  frequented 
by  English  and  Americans,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  51/2,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  3,  D.  5,  pens. 
12  fr.  (for  a  stay  of  a  week  or  more;  L.  extra);  "Cappuccini  alla  Marina 
(same  proprietors),  at  the  harbour,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  5,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  3,  D.  5, 
pens.  8  fr.  (L.  extra).  —  *  Albergo  della  Luna,  formerly  a  monastery, 
with  picturesque  cloisters  ,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town ,  1/1  M.  from  the 
harbour,  somewhat  poorly  fitted  up,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  21/2,  B.  l'/i,  dej.  2>/2, 
D.  4,  pens.  81/*  fr.  (all  incl.  wine).  —  "Alb.  d'Italia,  near  the  harbour,  R.,  L., 
&  A.  l'/2fr.,  B.60c,  dej.,  incl.  wine,  2,  D.2'/2,  pens.6fr.,  wine  included.  — 
Saccardi,  Piazza  del  Duomo,  unpretending. 

Boats  l'/2-2  fr.  per  hour  (an  expedition  to  the  above-mentioned  Grotta 
Pandone  takes  about  2'/2  hrs.  there  and  back;  the  Grotta  di  S.  Andrea 
lies  only  10-15  min.  from  Amalfl);  to  Prajano  with  4  rowers,  IV2  hr., 
8-10  fr.  arc  demanded,  but  a  bargain  may  be  made  for  less;  to  Capri  in 
about  6  hrs.  with  4-6  rowers  20-30  fr.;  to  Salerno  with  2  rowers  6-8  fr. 

Carriages  may  be  obtained  from  a  hirer  residing  immediately  beyond 
the  Piazza  on  the  way  to  the  mill-valley  (p.  171);  carr.  and  pair  to  Ra- 
vello, 5-6  fr.,  fee  extra.  —  Donket,  1-1 1/t  fr.  per  hr.  —  Guide  unnecessary. 
—  The  beggars,  especially  the  children,  are  more  importunate  at  Amalfl 
than  at  any  other  spot  near  Naples. 

Amalfl,  a  small  but  lively  town  with  7000  inhab.,  whose  chief 
occupations  are  the  manufacture  of  paper,  soap,  and  maccaroni,  is 
situated  at  the  entrance  of  a  deep  ravine,  surrounded  by  imposing 
mountains  and  rocks  of  the  most  picturesque  forms.  In  the  early 
part  of  the  middle  ages ,  it  was  a  prosperous  seaport ,  rivalling 
Pisa  and  Genoa,  and  numbered  50,000  inhabitants. 

Amalfl  is  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  the  6th  cent. ,  when  it  enjoyed  the 
protection  of  the  Eastern  emperors ;  it  afterwards  became  an  independent 
state,  under  the  presidency  of  a  'doge'.  The  town  was  continually  at 
variance  with  the   neighbouring   princes  of  Salerno,   and  even  defied  the 


170     Route  10.  AMALFL  Gulf  of 

Norman  sovereigns  of  Naples,  till  King  Roger  reduced  the  place  in  1131. 
United  with  the  royal  forces,  Amain  carried  on  a  war  with  the  Pisans ; 
and  it  was  during  this  struggle  that  the  celebrated  MS.  of  the  Pandects  of 
Justinian,  now  one  of  the  principal  treasures  of  the  Laurentian  library  at 
Florence,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Pisans.  The  place  then  became  subject 
to  the  kings  of  the  houses  of  Anjou  and  Aragon.  In  the  12th  cent,  the 
sea  began  gradually  to  undermine  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  and  a  ter- 
rible inundation  in  1343  proved  still  more  disastrous.  After  that  period 
Amain  steadily  declined.  The  town  boasts  of  having  given  birth  to 
Flavio  Gioja,  who  is  said  to  have  invented  the  compass  here  in  1302. 
The  Tavole  Amalfitane  were  recognised  for  centuries  as  the  maritime  law 
of  the  Mediterranean.  —  The  Cavaliere  Camera  possesses  rich  collections 
illustrating  the  history  of  Amalfl,  and  also  an  admirable  cabinet  of  coins, 
which  he  very  obligingly  shows  to  interested  visitors. 

From  the  Marina  a  short  street  leads  past  the  Albergo  dei 
Cappuccini  to  the  small  Piazza,  on  the  right  side  of  which  rises 
the  cathedral,  approached  by  a  broad  flight  of  steps. 

The  *Cattedralb  S.  Andrea  is  still,  in  spite  of  modern  alte- 
rations, an  interesting  structure  of  the  11th  cent.,  in  the  Lombard 
Norman  style.  The  portal,  built  of  alternate  courses  of  black  and 
white  stone ,  was  re-erected  in  1865.  The  facade  has  also  been 
recently  restored.  The  campanile,  adorned  with  columns  from  Paesr 
tum,  dates  from  1276. 

The  Bronze  Doors,  executed  by  Byzantine  masters  in  the  11th  cent., 
bear  two  inscriptions  in  silver  letters,  one  of  which  runs  thus :  'Hoc 
opus  fieri  jussit  pro  redemptione  animse  suae  Pantaleo  Alius  Mauri  de 
Pantaleone   de  Mauro  de  Maurone  Comite'. 

The  "Inteeioe  consists  of  a  nave  and  two  aisles,  with  a  series  of 
chapels  on  each  side.  Behind  the, chapels  on  the  N.  side  is  a  third  aisle, 
really  a  small  independent  church,  connected  with  the  N.  aisle  by  several 
entrances.  In  the  first  chapel  to  the  left  is  an  ancient  vase  of  porphyry, 
formerly  used  as  a  font.  Near  this,  to  the  left,  in  the  first  passage  to  the 
outer  aisle,  are  two  ancient  sarcophagi  with  sculptures,  unfortunately 
damaged,  supposed  to  represent  the  Rape  of  Proserpine,  and  the  Nuptials 
of  Peleus  and  Thetis  (according  to  others ,  the  marriage  of  Theseus  and 
Ariadne);  a  third  bears  the  inscription:  'Hie  intus  homo  verus  certus.op- 
tumus  recumbo  Publius  Octavius  Rufus  decurio\  —  The  choir  contains 
ancient  columns  decorated  with  mosaic  from  Psestum.  —  From  the  S. 
aisle  a  flight  of  steps  descends  to  the  Ckypx  (generally  open ;  when  closed, 
verger  20  c),  where  the  body  of  the  apostle  St.  Andrew  is  said  to  have 
reposed  since  the  13th  cent,  when  it  was  brought  hither  from  Constan- 
tinople. The  relics,  from  which  an  oily  matter  (manna  di  S.  Andrea)  of 
miraculous  power  is  said  to  exude ,  attract  numerous  devotees.  The 
colossal  "Statue  of  the  saint  by  Michael  Angelo  Maccarino  was  presented  by 
Philip  III.  of  Spain.  The  altar  was  executed  from  a  design  by  Domenico 
Fontana.  —  The  Cloisters,  entered  from  the  left  aisle,  contain  a  relief  of 
the  Twelve  Apostles  of  the  14th  cent.,  and  a  Madonna  of  more  recent  date, 
besides  remains  of  several  ancient  columns  from  Psestum  which  supported 
the  portal  before  the  restoration  in  1865  (see  above).  —  Solemn  processions 
on  St.  Andrew's  Day  (Nov.  30th). 

The  church  of  8.  Maria  Dolorata ,  300  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the 
cathedral,  also  contains  ancient  columns  from  Paestum. 

On  the  steep  slope  above  Amalfl  on  the  W.  the  old  *Capuchin 
Monastery  is  conspicuous.  It  was  founded  in  1212  by  Cardinal 
Pietro  Capuano  for  the  Cistercians,  but  came  into  possession  of  the 
Capuchins  in  1583,  and  is  now  fitted  up  as  a  hotel.  The  building, 
which  stands  in  the  hollow  of  a  rock  which  rises  abruptly  from  the 


Salerno.  RAVELLO.  10.  Route.     171 

sea  to  a  height  of  230  ft.,  contains  fine  cloisters,  a  charming  veran- 
dah, and  magnificent  points  of  view.  A  large  grotto  to  the  left  was 
formerly  used  as  a  Calvary.  Itis  most  conveniently  reached  hy  a  flight 
of  steps  ascending  from  the  new  road;  15  min.  from  the  harbour. 

On  the  slopes  above  the  town  to  the  E.  appears  the  arcade  of 
the  Cemetery  of  Amalfl.  The  solitary  round  tower  on  the  hill  above 
belongs  to  the  Castello  Pontone  (p.  169). 

A  cool  and  pleasant  Walk  may  be  taken  in  the  narrow  Valle 
de'  Molini,  or  mill-valley,  at  the  back  of  Amalfl,  which  contains  16 
paper-mills  driven  by  the  brook.  (From  the  Piazza  we  follow  the 
main  street,  which  ends  in  4  min.;  we  then  go  straight  on  through 
the  Porta  dell'  Ospedale,  a  covered  passage  opposite  the  fountain.) 
On  the  right  rise  lofty  cliffs.  Perhaps  the  most  picturesque  point 
is  at  the  (1  hr.)' Molino  Rovinato.  —  To  Amalfl  belong  the  villages 
of  Pogerola,  Pastina,  Lone,  Vettica  Minore,  and  Tovere,  all  situated 
to  the  W.  of  the  town  in  a  district  yielding  wine  ,  oil,  and  fruit  in 
abundance.  The  coast  is  overgrown  with  the  aloe  and  cactus  opuntia. 
—  A  pleasant  excursion  may  also  be  made  via  Pastina  and  Vettica 
Minore  to  the  old  fort  of  S.  Lazzaro ,  with  a  splendid  view  of  the 
entire  coast. 

From  Amalfi  to  Ravello,  an  ascent  of  I-IV2  hr.  (carr.  p.  169), 
a  most  attractive  excursion,  affording  beautiful  views,  and  interest- 
ing also  to  the  student  of  art,  particularly  if  as  yet  unacquainted 
with  Moorish  architecture.  The  new  road  begins  at  the  Villa  Proto 
(3/4  M.  from  the  Alb.  Luna  at  Amalfl),  to  the  E.  of  Atrani  (p.  169), 
ascends  to  the  left  in  long  windings,  and  then  enters  the  beautiful 
Valley  of  Atrani ,  the  bottom  of  which  forms  a  continuous  orange- 
grove.  It  follows  the  valley  until  three  mills  are  reached,  and  then 
again  ascends  to  the  right  in  windings  (road  to  Scala  to  the  left, 
at  the  third  bend;  see  p.  172)  toRavello. 

Walkers  have  an  alternative  route  aa  follows,  although  the  longer 
carriage-road  is  in  many  respects  preferable.  Quitting  the  road  at  Atrani, 
we  ascend  the  broad  flight  of  steps  on  the  left  beside  the  church  of  S. 
Maria  Maddalena  (7  min.  from  the  Alb.  della  Luna)  and  cross  the  little 
Largo  Maddalena.  We  then  ascend  the  steps  on  the  right  and  continue 
straight  on,  through  vaulted  lanes  and  up  steep  flights  of  stairs  (or  in 
some  cases  descending)  to  the  valley  of  Atrani,  where  we  rejoin  the 
carriage-road.  Beyond  the  three  mills  footpaths  again  cut  off  the  windings 
of  the  road. 

Ravello.  —  Hotels.  *H6t.-Pens.  Palcmbo,  in  the  old  episcopal  palace, 
R.  3-5,  L.  1/2,  B.  I1/2,  dej.  3,  D.  4-5,  pens.  8-9  fr.;  Alb.  del  Toko,  in  the 
former  Palazzo  d'Afflitto ,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  i%  fr.,  B.  60  c,  dej.  1  fr.  80  c, 
D.  272  (both  iucl.  wine),  pens.  incl.  wine  7  fr.  (for  a  week  or  more 
6  fr.),  well  spoken  of. 

Ravello  (1150ft.),  founded  under  the  Normans,  in  the  zenith 
of  its  prosperity  under  the  house  of  Anjou  in  the  13th  cent,  pos- 
sessed thirteen  churches,  four  monasteries  ,  numerous  palaces,  and 
36,000  inhabitants  (now  2000  only). 

The  Romanesque  *Cathedral  (St.  Pantaleone) ,  founded  in  the 
11th  cent.,  is  almost  entirely  modernised.     The  bronze  doors,  by 


172     Route  10.  EAVELLO. 

Barisanus  of  Trani  (1179"),  with  numerous  figures  of  saints,  are 
opened  from  the  inside  by  the  verger;  on  the  outside  they  are 
concealed  by  wooden  doors.  The  magnificent  *Ambo,  in  marble, 
embellished  with  mosaics ,  was  presented  in  1272 ;  it  rests  on  six 
columns  supported  by  lions  ;  inscription,  'Nicolaus  de  Fogia  mar- 
morarius  hoc  opus  fecit'.  The  fine  bust  on  the  arch  is  said  to  be  a 
portrait  of  Sigilgaita  Rufolo.  Opposite  to  it  is  the  pulpit,  in  a  simpler 
style,  with  a  representation  of  Jonah  being  swallowed  by  the  whale. 
In  the  choir  is  the  episcopal  throne,  adorned  with  mosaics.  The 
Cappella  di  S.  Pantaleone  (left)  contains  the  blood  of  the  saint. 
In  the  Sacristy  are  a  beautiful  but  sadly  damaged  Madonna,  a  St. 
Sebastian,  and  an  Assumption,  said  to  be  by  Andrea  da  Salerno. 

Turning  to  the  left  on  leaving  the  cathedral ,  passing  the  foun- 
tain ,  and  walking  for  100  paces  between  garden-walls ,  we  reach 
the  entrance  to  the  ^Palazzo  Rufalo  (visitors  ring  at  the  second 
gateway  on  the  right),  now  the  property  of  a  Mr.  Reid.  This  edi- 
fice, built  in  the  Saracenic  style  and  dating  from  the  12th  cent., 
was  once  occupied  by  Pope  Adrian  IV.,  King  Charles  II.,  and  Robert 
the  Wise.  In  the  centre  is  a  small,  fantastic  court  with  a  colon- 
nade. One  of  the  gateways  has  a  Saracenic  dome.  A  verandah  in 
the  garden  (1115  ft.  above  the  sea-level)  commands  a  delightful 
view  (gardener  ^2  &•)• 

Returning  to  the  piazza  and  ascending  a  lane  to  the  left  of  the 
cathedral,  we  come  in  5  min.  to  the  church  of  8.  Giovanni  del  Toro, 
a  modernised  basilica  borne  by  columns ,  and  containing  a  fine 
old  pulpit.  The  adjacent  garden  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  valley 
of  Minori,  of  the  small  town  of  that  name  at  its  mouth,  and  of 
the  more  distant  Majori  and  the  Capo  d'Orso  beyond  it  (fee  of  a 
few  soldi ;  refreshments  to  be  had).  —  S.  Maria  Immacolata  is  a 
picturesque  little  church,  also  Romanesque. 

Another  point  commanding  a  very  extensive  view  is  the  *Bel- 
vedere  Cembrone.  Passing  in  front  of  the  cathedral,  towards  the  S., 
we  go  straight  through  a  gateway,  pass  (8  min.)  the  portal  of  the 
church  of  8.  Chiara  to  the  right ,  reach  a  door  on  the  left  (visitors 
knock),  and  traverse  the  garden  to  the  belvedere. 

The  excursion  to  Amain  may  be  pleasantly  extended  by  1-2  hrs.  by 
visiting  Scala  (p.  171 ;  Caffe  della  Rosa),  a  village  with  a  large  church 
containing  the  tombs  of  the  Coppola  family;  the  church  of  SS.Annunzlata, 
an  old  basilica  with  ten  large  ancient  columns  and  some  old  frescoes  (to 
the  right  the  ruined  castle  of  Scaletla);  and  Pontone.  From  the  last  we 
descend  (steep)  to  the  mill-valley.  This  is  an  interesting,  but  fatiguing 
walk.  A  donkey  should  not  be  taken  farther  than  the  church  of  SS. 
Annunziata,  as  riding  is  scarcely  practicable  beyond  it. 

From  Amalfi  to  Sobeento,  at  present  by  boat  to  Prajano  (see 
p.  173)  and  thence  drive  to  Sorrento  ;  best  light  in  the  morning.  — 
The  continuation  of  the  coast-road  to  the  W.  of  Amalfl  will  pro- 
bably not  be  practicable  for  carriages  until  the  end  of  1892,  al- 
though already  open  to  peedestrians.  It  leads  below  the  Capuchin 
monastery  and  pierces  a  small  headland  by  means  of  a  short  tunnel. 


POSITANO.  10.  Route.     173 

Near  Vettica  Minore  it  is  joined  by  the  path  (mentioned  on  p.  146) 
from  Agerola,  a  visit  to  which  is  a  pleasant  excursion  from  Amalfi. 
The  road  then  rounds  the  Capo  di  Conca,  skirts  the  precipitous 
cliffs  of  Furore,  and  reaches  (5-5!/2  M.  from  Amain)  Prajano.  — 
Travellers  with  luggage  proceed  at  present  by  rowing-boat  (p.  169) 
along  the  picturesque  coast  to  (1-1 '/^hr.)  the  Marina  della  Praja, 
above  which  the  road  leads.  Here  they  are  met  by  carriages,  which 
should  be  ordered  by  telegraph  from  Sorrento  (p.  147;  drive  to 
Sorrento,  about  3  hrs.).  Travellers  in  the  opposite  direction  will 
also  probably  find  it  prudent  to  order  a  boat  beforehand  from  Amalfi, 
though  one  is  generally  to  be  obtained  at  the  Marina  della  Praja. 

At  the  beginning  of  Prajano,  near  the  spot  where  we  join  the 
road,  is  the  Stella  d'Oro  Inn  (R.  2,  B.  1,  de'j.  2l/2,  D.  4,  both  incl. 
wine,  pens.  6  fr. ;  dearer  in  spring),  well  spoken  of.  Prajano  and 
Vettica  Maggiore,  which  adjoins  it  beyond  Capo  Soitile,  aTe  noted  for 
their  abundant  wine  and  oil.  The  road  skirts  the  coast,  passing 
the  Punta  S.  Pietro  (chapel)  and  the  ravine  of  the  Arienzo,  descending 
from  Monte  S.  Angelo.  High  above  is  Montepertuso  (p.  146).  In 
1  hr.  (4V2  M.  from  the  Marina  della  Praja)  carriages  reach  — 

Positano,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  mountain-slopes,  with 
3000  inhab.,  an  important  harbour  under  the  Anjou  dynasty.  Many 
of  the  natives  leave  their  homes  and  travel  through  Southern  Italy 
as  hawkers.  They  assemble  at  their  native  place  annually  to  cele- 
brate their  principal  church-festival  (15th  Aug. ;  excursion-steamer 
from  Naples),  and  finally  return  thither  in  later  life  to  spend  their 
declining  years. 

The  road  skirts  the  highest  houses  of  the  town,  descends  again  to 
the  coast,  along  which  it  proceeds  for  about  2l/2  M.,  and  then  begins 
to  ascend  inland.  Fine  view  of  the  Isles  of  the  Sirens,  usually  called 
/  Oalli,  which  were  fortified  in  the  middle  ages.  The  highest  point 
of  the  road  is  a  drive  of  fully  3/4  hr.  from  Positano ;  walkers  must 
allow  double  that  time.  The  descent  through  luxuriant  orange  and 
lemon-groves  to  Meta  is  picturesque,  though  distant  views  are  seldom 
obtained.  At  the  Madonna  del  Lauro  at  Meta  (p.  147),  IOI/2  M.  or 
2Y-2  hrs.  drive  from  Prajano,  we  reach  the  road  from  OastellammaTe  to 
Sorrento,  at  a  point  nearly  3  M.  (i/^hr-'s  drive)  from  Sorrento  (p.  147). 

11.  From  Naples  to  Benevento  via,  Nola  and  Avellino. 

From  Cancello,  a  station  on  the  Naples  and  Rome  railway,  a  branch- 
line  runs  to  Nola,  and  skirts  the  Apennines  to  Avellino.  From  Naples  to 
Nola  in  I-I1/2  hr.  (fares  3  fr.  10,  1  fr.  95  c,  1  fr.)  ;  to  Avellino  in  3-4  hrs. 
(fares  8fr.  60,  5  fr.  40,  2  fr.  70  c.) ;  to  Benevento  in  4"/2-5  hrs.  (fares  12  fr., 
7  fr.  80,  4  fr.  25  c.).  —  Railway  from  Naples  to  Baiano  via  Nola,  see  p.  174. 

From  Naples  to   Cancello,   13  M.,   see  p.  10. 

201/2  M.  Nola,  with  12,000  inhab.,  an  ancient  Campanian  city, 
was  almost  the  only  one  which  successfully  resisted  the  attacks  of 
Hannibal  after  the  battle  of  Cannae  ,   B.C.  216  ;  and  the  following 


174     Route  11.  NOLA.  From  Naples 

year  its  inhabitants  under  the  command  of  the  brave  M.  Marcellus 
succeeded  in  repulsing  the  invader.  The  Emperor  Augustus  died 
here  on  19th  Aug.  A.D.  14,  in  his  76th  year,  in  the  same  house 
and  apartment  where  his  father  Octavius  had  breathed  his  last.  In 
ancient  times  Nola  was  not  less  important  than  Pompeii.  It  is  now 
an  insignificant  place  and  devoid  of  interest.  In  the  5th  cent., 
St.  Paulinus,  an  accomplished  poet  and  Bishop  of  Nola  (b.  at  Bor- 
deaux in  354,  d.  431),  is  said  to  have  invented  church-bells  at  this 
Campanian  town ,  whence  the  word  'campana'  is  derived.  On 
26th  June  a  great  festival  is  celebrated  in  his  honour ;  eight  lofty 
and  gaily  adorned  towers  of  light  wood-work  (so-called  'Lilies')  and 
a  ship  bearing  the  image  of  the  saint  are  drawn  through  the  streets 
in  procession.  The  free-thinker  Giordano  Bruno,  who  on  17th  Feb. 
1600,  terminated  his  eventful  career  at  the  stake  in  Rome ,  was 
born  at  Nola,  where  a  monument,  renewed  in  1888,  has  been  erected 
to  his  memory.  Oiovanni  Merliano,  the  sculptor  of  Naples,  known 
as  Oiovanni  da  Nola,  was  also  born  here  in  1488. 

Nola  is  celebrated  as  an  ancient  cradle  of  the  plastic  art.  The 
magnificent  vases  with  shining  black  glazing  and  skilfully  drawn 
red  figures,  which  form  the  principal  ornaments  of  the  museums 
of  Naples  and  of  other  places,  were  made  here.  Numerous  coins 
of  Nola  with  Greek  inscriptions  have  also  been  found. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town  is  situated  the  Seminary,  where 
several  Latin  inscriptions  and  the  so-called  Oippus  Abellanus,  a  remarkable 
inscription  in  the  Oscan  language  found  near  Ahella,  are  preserved.  Above 
the  seminary  (5  min.)  is  the  Franciscan  monastery  of  S.  Angelo,  command- 
ing a  view  of  the  fertile  and  luxuriant  plain  ;  to  the  left  is  Monte  Somma, 
behind  which  Vesuvius  is  concealed;  to  the  right  rise  the  mountains  of 
Maddaloni.  A  little  to  the  E.  is  a  Capuchin  monastery,  above  which  the 
ruined  castle  of  Cicala  picturesquely  crowns  an  eminence. 

Nola  is  connected  with  Naples  by  a  Local  Railway  as  well  as  by  the 
main  line  (I6V2  M.,  in  I-I.1/4  hr.;  fares  2  fr.  45,  1  fr.  55,  80  c. ;  return-tickets 
at  a  reduction  of  25  per  cent,  available  till  the  first  train  of  the  follow- 
ing day  or  for  three  days  on  the  eve  of  a  festival).  The  train  starts  at 
Naples  from  the  Nola-Baiano  Station  (PI.  H,  2,  3;  p.  49).  The  line  tra- 
verses Campania,  offering  numerous  picturesque  views.  Stations:  l1/*  M. 
Poggioreale;  6  M.  Casalnuovo;  8  M.  Pomigliano  d'Arco;  10  M.  Castello  di 
Cistema;  IOV2M.  Brusciano;  11  M.  Mariglianella ;  I21/2M.  Marigliano  (car- 
riages to  Somma,  see  p.  118);  13  M.  S.  Vitaliano-Casaferro;  13V2  M.  Scis- 
ciano ;  15^2  M.  Saviano;  16>/2  31.  Nola.  — Beyond  Nola  the  railway  contin- 
ues to :  I71/2  M.  Cimilile,  I872  M.  Camposano,  19  M.  Cicciano,  2OV2  M.  Rocca- 
rainola,  23  M.  Avella-Sperone,  and  23'/2  M.  Baiano.  From  Baiano  carriages 
ply  to  Avellino  and  back  in  connection  with  the  1st,  2nd,  and  5th  trains 
from  and  to  Naples  (through-fares  4  fr.  45,  3  fr.  15,  2  fr.  10  c;  return  7  fr. 
20,  5  fr.  25,  3  fr.  65  c).  —  Avella  is  the  classic  Abella,  near  which  are  exten- 
sive plantations  of  hazel-nut,  the  'nuces  Avellanae1  of  antiquity.  The 
aqueduct  of  the  new  Neapolitan  water-works  (p.  32)  passes  in  the  vicinity. 

25^2  M.  Palma,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  slopes  of  the 
Apennines  opposite  Ottaiano ,  with  7500  inhab.  and  an  ancient 
chateau,  is  commanded  by  an  extensive  ruined  castle  on  a  height. 

30!/2  M.  Sarno,  a  town  with  16,500  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Sarno, 
which  flows  hence  towards  Scafati  and  Pompeii.    Above  it  towers  a 


to  Benevento.  AVELLINO.  11.  Route.      1 7E 

ruined  stronghold  of  Count  Francesco  Coppola,  -who  took  an  im- 
portant part  in  the  conspiracy  against  Ferdinand  of  Arragon  (1485) 

The  view  now  becomes  more  limited.  Tunnel.  35  M.  Codola 
branch-line  to  Nocera,  see  p.  161.  —  37  M.  Castel  San  Giorgio.  — 
4CH/2  M.  Mercato  SanSeverino  (/nn,  poor),  on  the  road  from  Avellim 
to  Salerno.  The  principal  church  contains  the  tombs  of  Tommaso  d< 
San  Severino,  high-constable  of  the  kingdom  of  Naples  in  1353,  an< 
of  several  princes  of  Salerno.  A  road  leads  from  S.  Severino  t< 
Salerno  (about  10  M.) ;  railway  in  progress,  comp.  p.  165.  —  Thi 
line  now  turns  to  the  N.  43i/2  M.  Montoro;  5272  M.  Solofra 
541/2  M.  Serino. 

59  M.  Avellino  (Albergo  Centrale ,  well  spoken  of,  obliging 
landlord ,  who  provides  guides  for  Mte.  Vergine ;  Albergo  dell 
Puglie),  with  23,000  inhab.,  the  capital  of  a  province,  situated  01 
the  old  post-road  from  Naples  to  Foggia.  The  name  is  derived  fron 
the  ancient  Abellinum,  the  ruins  of  which  are  2^2  M.  distant,  nea 
the  village  of  Atripalda.  Another  road  leads  hence  to  (14  M. 
Montesarchio  and  Benevento  (p.  204). 

From  Avellino  we  may  visit  Monte  Vergine,  a  famous  resort  of  pil 
grims  (donkey  4-5  fr.  and  fee;  provisions  should  be  brought  from  Ave] 
lino).  There  are  two  routes  to  the  convent.  1.  We  follow  the  Road  t< 
the  W.  end  of  the  town  and  then  ascend  the  bye-road  to  the  right.  A 
O/2  M.)  the  cross-roads  we  proceed  to  the  left  to  (1  31.)  Loreto,  wher 
the  abbot  and  older  monks  live  in  a  large  octagonal  building  designed  b; 
Vanvitelli.  The  convent  archives  and  'spezieria*  are  also  here.  —  2.  Foot 
path.  We  proceed  from  the  Municipio  through  the  Via  Mancini  to  th 
prison  and  on  between  the  gymnasium  (left)  and  the  barracks  (right)  t 
a  villa ,  the  gateway  of  which  we  enter.  The  path  to  the  left,  by  th 
brook,  ascends  through  gardens  and  fields  to  Loreto.  Thence  to  Met 
cogliano ,  where  donkeys  may  be  procured  (l1^  fr.),  */4  hr.  more.  A  tracl 
leading  to  the  right  here  at  the  Piazza  Michele  Santangelo,  and  soon  cross 
ing  the  road,  leads  to  the  stony  bridle-path  (partly  provided  with  steps 
and  through  wood  to  (2  hrs.)  the  convent  of  Monte  Vergine,  founded  ii 
1119  on  the  ruins  of  a  temple  of  Cybele ,  some  remains  of  which  ar 
shown  in  the  convent.  The  Church  contains  a  miraculous  picture  of  th 
Virgin,  and  the  tombs  of  Catherine  of  Valois,  who  caused  the  pictur 
to  be  brought  hither,  and  of  her  son  Louis  of  Taranto,  second  husbani 
of  Johanna  I.  Their  effigies  repose  on  a  Roman  sarcophagus.  On  th 
left  side  of  the  high-altar  is  the  chapel  erected  for  himself  by  King  Man 
fred,  which,  when  that  monarch  fell  at  Benevento,  was  given  by  Charle 
of  Anjou  to  one  of  his  French  attendants.  At  Whitsuntide  (comp.  p.  2? 
and  on  Sept.  7th  about  70-80,000  pilgrims  visit  the  convent ,  many  of  th 
penitents  ascending  barefoot  and  crawling  on  their  hands  and  knees  froi 
the  church-door  to  the  altar. 

From  the  convent  we  may  ascend  to  the  (1/2  hr.)  top  of  the  mountai 
(4290  ft.),  commanding  a  magnificent  survey  of  the  bays  and  the  exten 
sive  mountainous  district. 

641/2  M.  Prata  Pratola ;  66l/2  M.  Tufo.  —  68'M.  Altavilla  Ir 
pino.  —  70  M.  Chianehe;  76  M.  Benevento  P.R.  —  77l/2  M.  Bene 
vento  (p.  204). 


EASTERN  AND  SOUTHERN  DISTRICTS 
OF  S.  ITALY. 


These  parts  of  Italy  have,  until  recently,  been  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
ordinary  traveller.  The  W.  coast  is,  moreover,  by  far  the  richer  and  more 
picturesque,  as  well  as  more  replete  with  historical  interest.  The  E. 
districts  can  boast  of  no  such  names  as  those  of  Florence ,  Rome,  and 
Naples,  but  they  are  not  devoid  of  attraction,  and  have  been  endowed  by 
nature  with  a  considerable  share  of  the  gifts  she  has  so  bounteously 
lavished  on  other  parts  of  Italy. 

The  Apennines  ,  rising  at  a  short  distance  from  the  coast,  send  forth 
a  series  of  parallel  ramifications,  forming  a  corresponding  number  of  par- 
allel valleys,  whose  communication  with  the  external  world  is  maintained 
by  means  of  the  coast  to  which  they  descend.  To  the  S.  of  Ancona,  from 
about  the  43rd  to  the  42nd  degree  of  N.  latitude,  stretch  the  Central 
Apennines,  embracing  the  three  provinces  of  the  Abruzzi  (Chieti,  Teramo, 
and  Aquila) ,  the  ancient  Samnium.  They  culminate  in  the  Montagna 
delta  Sibilla  (8120  ft.),  the  Oran  Sasso  a" Italia  (9585  ft.),  and  the  Maiella 
(9170  ft.) ,  groups  which  are  connected  by  continuous  ranges ,  and  which 
are  clad  with  snow  down  to  the  month  of  July.  These  mountains  abound 
in  fine  scenery  (RR.  12-14) ,  but  until  recently  they  have  been  well-nigh 
inaccessible  owing  to  the  defectiveness  of  the  means  of  communication 
and  the  badness  of  the  inns.  The  mountains  to  the  S.  of  42°  N.  lat., 
receding  gradually  from  the  sea,  are  called  the  Neapolitan  Apennines.  The 
only  spur  which  projects  into  the  sea  is  the  Mte.  Oargano  (3465  ft.),  which, 
however,  is  separated  from  the  chief  range  by  a  considerable  plain.  Beyond 
this  stretches  the  Apulian  plain,  an  extensive  tract  of  pasture  and  arable 
land,  bounded  by  an  undulating  district  on  the  S.  About  the  41st  degree  of 
N.  latitude  the  Apennines  divide;  the  main  chain,  extending  towards  the  S., 
forms  the  peninsula  of  Calabria;  the  lower  chain,  to  the  E.,  that  of  Apulia. 

The  Coast  (Provinces  of  Ancona,  the  Abruzzi,  Capitanata,  Terra  di 
Sari,  and  Terra  d'Otranto)  is  flat  and  monotonous,  and  destitute  of  good 
harbours.  The  estuaries  of  the  small  rivers  afford  but  scanty  protection 
to  the  vessels  of  the  coasting  trade.  Even  at  Ancona  the  prominent 
M.  Conero  (1880  ft.)  alone  renders  the  anchorage  tolerable.  The  villages 
and  towns,  in  which  local  peculiarities  often  prevail  in  a  marked  degree, 
are  generally  situated  on  the  heights,  and  conspicuous  at  a  great  distance. 
Farther  to  the  S.,  however,  in  the  ancient  Apulia  and  Calabria  (p.  200), 
the  coast  scenery  improves,  and  there  are  three  important  harbours,  those 
of  Sari,  Brindisi,  and  Otranto.  Since  the  construction  of  the  railway  the 
most  direct  route  between  Western  and  Central  Europe  and  the  East  has 
passed  this  way. 

Of  the  Southeen  Peovinces,  the  former  Sasilicata  (now  the  province 
of  Potenza),  the  ancient  Lucania,  is  less  interesting  than  most  other 
parts  of  Italy,  whereas  Calabria  is  replete  with  striking  scenery,  though 
civilization  here  still  lags  wofully  behind.  The  shores  of  the  Gnlf 
of  Taranto ,  whose  waters  bound  both  of  these  provinces ,  were  once 
studded  with  numerous  flourishing  Greek  colonies,  and  the  whole  district 
bore  the  name  of  Magna  Oraecia;  but  the  traces  of  that  prosperous  epoch 
are  now  scanty.  The  period  of  decline  began  with  the  Roman  supremacy. 
The  art  and  culture  of  the  middle  ages  never  penetrated  to  these  remote 
regions.  The  fields  once  extolled  by  Sophocles  for  their  richness  and 
fertility  are  now  sought  for  in  vain,  and  the  malaria  exercises  its  dismal 
sway  throughout  the  whole  of  this   neglected   district.      The   soil  belongs 


RIETI.  12.  Route.      177 

to  the  nobility ,  who  let  it  to  a  miserably  poor  and  ignorant  class  ot 
farmers.  The  custom  of  carrying  'weapons  is  universally  prevalent  here 
(comp.,  however,  p.  xiv),  and  brigandage  was  carried  on  until  the  year  1870 
The  villages  are  generally  wretched  and  filthy  beyond  description.  No  one 
should  therefore  attempt  to  explore  the  remoter  parts  of  this  country  unless 
provided  with  letters  of  introduction  to  some  of  the  principal  inhabitants. 
Information  may  usually  be  best  obtained  in  the  chemists'  shops  (farmaeitta). 
Tolerable  inns  are  to  be  found  only  in  the  larger  towns.  In  smaller 
localities,  the  traveller  should  insist  upon  having  a  room  to  himself  or 
he  may  have  to  share  his  bedroom  with  other  travellers,  according  to'  the 
custom  of  the  country.  The  hotel  omnibuses  generally  carry  passengers 
even  when  the  latter  are  not  staying  in  the  hotel. 

12.  From  Terni  to  Solmona  through  the  Abruzzi. 

102  M.  Railway  in  6>/2-7  hrs.  (fares  18  fr.  55,  13  fr.,  8fr.35  c). 

Terni,  and  thence  via  (51/2  M.)  Stroncone  and  (10  M.)  Marmore, 
the  station  for  the  fine  waterfall  of  the  Velino,  to  (11  M.)  Piediluco, 
see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy. 

Beyond  Piediluco  the  line  follows  the  course  of  the  Velino, 
crossing  the  winding  stream  several  times.  1 6 1/2  M.  Greccio ;  20i/2  M. 
Contigliano. 

2bl/2  M.  Rieti  (*Croce  Bianca;  Campana),  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Velino  (16,800  inhab.],  the  ancient  Beate,  was  once  the 
capital  of  the  Sabines ,  but  no  traces  of  the  ancient  city  remain 
save  a  few  inscriptions  preserved  in  the  town-hall.  The  Cathedral, 
dating  from  1456,  contains  a  S.  Barbara  by  Bernini,  and  the  mon- 
ument of  Isabella  Alfani  by  Thorvaldsen ;  fine  view  in  front  of  the 
edifice. 

Excursions  may  be  made  from  Rieti  to  the  picturesque  mountain  scenery 
of  the  Central  Apennines,  though  not  unattended  by  difficulties  on  account 
of  the  indifferent  character  of  the  inns  and  roads.  Thus  to  Leonessa,  151/3  jf. 
distant,  erected  in  a  lofty  mountain  ravine  about  the  year  1252 ;  thence  to 
(121/2  M.)  Cascia,  said  to  be  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Casci,  or  aborigines  of 
the  district ;  71/2  M.  farther  to  Norcia,  the  ancient  Nursia,  nearly  destroyed 
by  an  earthquake  in  1857,  with  walls  of  great  antiquity,  birthplace  of 
Vespasia  Pollia,  mother  of  the  emperor  Vespasian,  whose  family  monu- 
ments were  situated  at  Vespasia,  71/2  M.  distant.  St.  Benedict  and  his  sister 
Scholastica  were  also  natives  of  Nursia. 

From  Rieti  the  line  proceeds  through  a  picturesque  district  in 
the  valley  of  the  Velino.  The  mountains  are  clothed  with  forest, 
and  their  lower  slopes  with  vineyards  and  olives.  31  M.  Citta- 
ducale,  founded  in  1308  by  Robert,  Duke  of  Calabria,  was  formerly 
the  frontier-town  of  the  Neapolitan  dominions.  3672  M.  Castel 
S.  Angelo.  About  1  M.  to  the  "W.  are  the  Sulphur  Baths  of  Pa- 
terno,  the  ancient  Aquae  Cutiliae,  which  were  regularly  frequented 
by  Vespasian,  and  where  he  died  in  A.D.  79.  The  Pozzo  di  La- 
tignano ,  the  ancient  Lacus  Cutiliae,  was  regarded  by  Varro  as  the 
central  point  ('umbilicus')  of  Italy. 

4OY2M.  Antrodoco-Borgo-Velino.  Antrodoco,  the  Lat.  Intero- 
crea,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Velino,  at  a  little  distance  from 
the  station,  is  commanded  on  the  N.  E.  by  the  lofty  Monte  Calvo; 
on  the  hill  is  the  ruined  castle  of  the  Vitelli.  —  45'/2  M.  Rocca 

Baedekek.    Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  12 


178     Route  12.  AQUILA.  From  Terni 

di  Fondi;  49'^  M.  Rocca  di  Corno ;  53  M.  Sella  di  Corno.  —  We 
next  reach,  the  watershed  between  the  Tyrrhenian  Sea  and  the  Adri- 
atic. The  railway  then  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Aterno.  — 
55^2  M.  Vigliano;  59y2  M.  Sassa-Tomimparte,  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Foruli. 

62  M.  Aquila.  —  The  Station,  (Rail.  Restaurant,  unpretending)  lies 
i]/4  M.  from  the  town;  omnibus  up  to  the  town  50  c,  down  to  the  sta- 
tion 40  c. 

Hotels.  *  Sole,  Piazza  del  Palazzo,  with  a  frequented  trattoria ;  Italia, 
Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele ;  Aquila  Neea,  near  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  E.  at 
each  1-2  fr.  Hotel -omnibuses  meet  the  trains. 

Trattorie.  Esposizione ,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele ;  Rosetta ,  Via  del  Guas- 
tatore;  Grand  Caffi  Ristorante,  Piazza  dei  Quattro  Cantoni. 

Carriages  at  Berardfs,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele,  and  Morone's,  adjoining 
the  Alb.  del  Sole;  carr.  with  two  horses  to  Paganica  (p.  180)  6  fr.,  to 
Assergi  10  fr.  —  Post  Office  in  the  Piazza  del  Palazzo. 

Aquila,  called  degli  Abruzzi,  founded  by  Emp.  Frederick  II. 
about  1240  as  a  check  on  papal  encroachments,  destroyed  by  Man- 
fred in  1259,  and  rebuilt  by  Charles  I.,  maintained  itself  as  an 
almost  entirely  independent  republic ,  supported  by  the  free  pea- 
santry of  the  district,  until  it  was  finally  subdued  by  the  Spaniards 
in  1521.  In  point  of  constitutional  history,  industry,  and  art  it  oc- 
cupied a  unique  position.  It  is  now  the  prosperous  capital  of  the 
province  of  the  same  name,  with  18,500  inhab.,  spacious  streets, 
handsome  palaces ,  and  churches  with  interesting  facades.  It  en- 
joys a  pure  and  healthy  atmosphere  owing  to  its  lofty  situation 
(2360  ft.) ,  and  is  consequently  a  favourite  summer-resort  of  the 
Italians.  To  the  N.E.  is  the  Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia  (p.  180),  which 
rises  abruptly  on  this  side. 

From  the  Piazza  del  Palazzo  the  Strada  del  Princ.  TJmberto  to 
the  right  leads  to  the  Corso,  which  we  follow  in  a  straight  direction 
to  the  church  of  S.  Bebnabdino  di  Sibna.  The  *Facade  was  executed 
with  great  artistic  taste  in  1525-42  by  Cola  dell'  Amatriee.  In  the 
interior,  on  the  right,  is  the  *Monument  of  the  saint,  decorated 
with  arabesques  and  sculpture ,  executed  by  Silvestro  da  Arsicola 
in  1505.  A  fine  marble  tomb  near  the  high-altar  is  by  the  same 
artist.  The  interesting  wooden  statue  of  Pompeo  dell'  Aquila  dates 
from  the  16th  century.  The  1st  Chapel  on  the  right  contains  a 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin  and  a  Resurrection  by  della  Robbia. 

From  S.  Bernardino  we  descend  to  the  piazza,  cross  the  latter 
towards  the  left,  pass  through  the  Porta  di  Collemaggio,  and  reach 
the  monastery  of  S.  Mabia  di  Collemaggio  (in  the  popular  dialect 
Collemezzo).  The  Romanesque  *Facade ,  inlaid  with  coloured 
marble ,  consists  of  three  portals  and  three  corresponding  rose- 
windows.  Contiguous  to  the  church  is  an  ancient  and  remarkably 
small  clock-tower.  Interior  gaudily  modernised.  To  the  left  is  the 
Chapel  of  Celestine  V.  (keys  at  the  Municipio),  containing  his  tomb 
(d.  1296),  a  work  in  the  Renaissance  style.  His  life  and  acts 
and  those  of  other  saints  are  represented  in  a  series   of  fantastic 


to  Solmona.  AQUILA.  12.  Route.     179 

pictures  by  the  Celestinian  monk  Ruter,  a  pupil  of  Rubens.  —  We 
now  leturn  through,  the  new  street,  which  leads  from  the  church 
straight  to  the  S.W.  end  of  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele. 

The  Via  della  Prefettura  leads  hence  to  the  left  to  a  small  piazza 
in  which  rises  the  little  church  of  S.  Marca,  with  a  Romanesque 
facade.  —  The  Via  di  Bazzano  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  Corso 
a  little  farther  on  brings  lis  to  the  church  of  8.  Giusta,  also  with  a 
Romanesque  facade  and  an  ancient  painting  above  the  entrance.  ■ — ■ 
No.  18,  on  the  left  farther  along  in  the  line  of  the  Corso,  is  the 
Palazzo  Dragonetti  containing  pictures  of  the  16th  cent,  (the  best 
by  Pompeo  dell'  Aquila). 

We  now  return  to  the  Corso,  on  the  left  of  which  is  the  Piazza 
del  Duomo  or  Piazza  Maggiore.  Turning  to  the  right  past  the  cathe- 
dral (opposite  the  Corso)  we  see  immediately  to  our  left  the  *Palazzo 
Torres  containing  a  picture-gallery  with  an  admirable  *Portrait  of 
Cardinal  Torres  by  Domenichino ;  Stoning  of  St.  Stephen  by  the 
same  master,  on  copper;  Eucharist,  by  Titian,  on  marble.  ■ — 
Farther  on  are  the  churches  of  S.  Marciano  and  8.  Maria  di  Roio, 
both  with  Romanesque  facades.  Beside  the  latter  is  the  Palazzo 
Persiohetti  with  a  collection  of  paintings  by  old  masters  and  other 
works  of  art. 

Farther  up  the  Corso,  on  the  left,  is  the  handsome  Town  Hall, 
which  contains,  in  the  passage  and  on  the  walls  of  the  staircase, 
a  valuable  collection  of  Roman  inscriptions.  On  the  upper  floor  is 
a  picture-gallery  in  several  rooms  (apply  to  one  of  the  officials).  The 
Sala  dei  Gonfaloni  contains  several  interesting  paintings  of  the  old 
Aquilan  school;  in  another  room  are  numerous  examples  of  Ruter, 
the  animal-painter  (see  above);  in  the  Sala  del  Consiglio  are  portraits 
of  prominent  natives  of  Aquila  in  the  13-17th  cent.;  and  another  room 
contains  some  unimportant  antiquities,  MSS.  of  the  15th  cent.,  and 
good  miniatures. 

From  the  Corso,  farther  on,  the  Via  Leosini  leads  to  the  left  to 
8.  Maria  di  Paganica,  with  a  Romanesque  facade  and  side-portal, 
and  the  Via  del  Carmine  to  the  right  to  8.  Maria  del  Carmine,  with 
a  Romanesque  facade  and  an  ancient  painting  over  the  entrance. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  Corso  lies  the  Piazza  Margherita.  We 
turn  to  the  right  into  the  Via  Garibaldi,  then  to  the  right  into  the 
Via  del  Guasto,  on  the  right  side  of  which  stands  the  early-Renais- 
sance church  of  S.  Maria  della  Misericordia,  adorned  on  the  outside 
with  paintings  of  1545.  —  Farther  on,  beside  the  hospital,  is  a 
small  church  with  a  Romanesque  facade  and  a  curious  painted  portal, 
shewing  the  Madonna  and  saints  in  the  tympanum,  with  praying 
angels  above  (15th  cent.).  —  The  Via  Garibaldi  proceeds  to  the 
church  of  8.  Silvestro,  with  Romanesque  facade  and  side -portal. 
Opposite  the  church  is  the  Via  delle  Streghe,  leading  to  the  left  to 
the  Via  Principe  Umberto,  to  the  left  of  which  is  the  Piazza  del 
.Palazzo  (p.  178). 

12* 


180     Route  12.  AQUILA.  From  Terni 

If  we  turn  to  the  right  (not  through  the  gate)  from  the  Piazza 
Margherita  (p.  179)  we  reach  the  Citadel,  a  massive  square  edifice 
with  low  round  towers,  constructed  by  the  Spaniards  in  1543  under 
Charles  V.,  surrounded  by  a  moat.  This  point  affords  the  best 
*View  of  the  Gran  Sasso,  the  town,  and  the  mountainous  environs. 
(Application  for  admission  must  be  made  to  an  officer.) 

Outside  the  Porta  del  Castello  is  the  interesting  early-Renaissance 
burial  church  of  the  Madonna  del  Soccorso,  with  a  facade  of  red  and 
white  marble.  In  the  interior  are  two  tombs  by  Arsicola  (above  one 
of  which  is  an  earlier  Pieta)  and  some  works  by  Silvestro. 

Near  Aquila,  Braccio  Fortebraccio  da  Montone,  the  dreaded  rival 
of  Sforza,  was  defeated  by  the  united  armies  of  Queen  Johanna  II. 
of  Naples,  Pope  Martin  V.,  and  the  Duke  of  Milan,  commanded  by 
Jacopo  Caldora,  on  2nd  June,  1424. 

About  3  M.  to  the  N.W.,  (excursion  of  3-4  hrs.,  two-horse  carr.  5  fr.), 
on  the  road  to  Teramo  (p.  190),  is  the  village  of  S.  Vittorino  on  the  Aterno, 
occupying  the  site  of  the  celebrated  ancient  Sabine  town  of  Amiternum, 
where  the  historian  Sallust  was  born.  On  an  eminence  which  was  once 
crowned  by  the  ancient  Arx,  or  citadel,  stands  an  old  tower  with  inscrip- 
tions and  sculptures  built  into  the  walls.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  are 
remains  of  a  theatre,  an  amphitheatre,  and  other  buildings  of  the  imperial 
epoch,  where  antiquities  are  frequently  found. 

The  Ascent  of  the  Gran  Sasso  d'Italia  ,  1-2  days  there  and  back, 
is  most  conveniently  undertaken  from  Aquila.  (Letters  of  introduction  from 
members  of  the  Italian  Alpine  Club  desirable.)  An  excellent  special 
map  of  the  district  has  been  issued  by  the  Roman  section  of  the  club. 
The  best  season  for  this  expedition  is  summer  or  autumn;  in  spring  the 
snow  is  a  great  hindrance  (so  that  a  very  early  start  should  be  made  from 
the  refuge-hut).  Provisions  should  be  taken  from  Assergi.  We  drive  via, 
Paganica  (OsteriadeVecchis,  with  rooms)  and  Camarda  (PompiliaMoscardi's 
Inn),  where  the  sindaco  keeps  the  key  of  the  Rifugio  on  the  Campo  Pericoli, 
in  2  hrs.  to  Assergi  (2935  ft. ;  provisions  obtainable  from  Francesco  Sacca), 
finely  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Gran  Sasso.  Mule  (here  known  as  vet- 
lure)  from  this  point  to  the  station  of  Paganica  (p.  181)  2-3  fr. ;  to  the 
Rifugio  and  back  5  fr.  per  day;  two-wheeled  car  (sciarraba)  to  Paganica 
2-3  fr.,  for  a  party  l-l'/2  fr.  each.  Giovanni  Acitelli,  his  brother,  and 
Franco  di  Nicola  are  good  guides.  The  two  former,  here  only  from  May  to 
Nov.,  possess  a  key  to  the  Rifugio.  Tariff:  to  the  Rifugio  in  summer,  one 
day  5,  two  days  7  fr.,  in  winter  7  and  10  fr.;  to  the  summit,  spending  a 
night  in  the  Rifugio,  10  and  16  fr. ;  with  descent  to  Pietracamela  15  and 
20  fr. ;  each  addit.  day  4  and  6  fr.  —  From  Assergi  we  walk  or  ride  (mule 
4-5  fr.)  in  about  4'/2  hrs.  by  a  miserable  path  to  the  Pusso  delta  Portella 
(7400  ft.),  a  narrow  saddle  between  the  Pizzo  Cefaloneand  the  Monte  Portella 
(see  below),  whence  we  survey  the  N.  slopes  of  the  Apennines  as  far  as  Ascoli. 
Thence  we  descend  in  1  hr.  to  the  Campo  Pericoli,  inhabited  by  shep- 
herds, where  a  well-equipped  refuge-hut  (7220  ft.)  was  built  by  the  Ital- 
ian Alpine  Club  in  1886.  An  ascent  of  about  3  hrs.  more,  on  foot,  brings 
us  to  the  summit.  The  "Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia,  or  Monto  Corno  (9585  ft.),  is 
the  highest  peak  of  the  Apennines.  In  formation  it  resembles  the  limestone 
Alps  of  the  Tyrol.  The  view  is  strikingly  grand,  embracing  the  Tyrr- 
henian Sea,  the  Adriatic,  the  rocky  Dalmatian  coast,  and  the  whole  of 
Central  Italy.  The  other  chief  summits  of  the  Gran  Sasso  group  are  the 
Pizzo  d' Intermesole  (8680  ft.),  the  Corno  Piccolo  (8650  ft.) ,  the  Pizzo  Cefa- 
lone  (8305  ft.),  and  the  Monte  delta  Portella  (7835  ft.). 

The  ascent  of  the  Gran  Sasso  from  Teramo  (p.  ISO)  is  not  so  conven- 
ient. We  drive  by  the  Aquila  road  via  Montorio  up  the  valley  of  the 
Vomano  to  &/i  hrs.)  a  point  shortly  before  Fano  Adriano  (p.  190),  where 
we  turn  to  the  left,  by  a  bridle-path  crossing   high  above  the  mountain- 


to  Solmona.  FONTECCHIO.  12.  Route.    181 

stream  of  the  Arno,  and  ascend  to  (1  hr.)  Pielracamela  (3295  ft.;  no  inn, 
rfmts.,  at  Luigi  deLuca,  the  shoemaker's).  The  sindaco  here  also  has  a 
key  of  the  Rifugio  on  the  Campo  Pericoli  (see  p.  180;  guides,  Domenico 
Rossi  and  Pietro  Venanzo).    We  ascend  to  the  latter  in  5-6  hrs. 

For  full  instruction  and  details  see  the  'Guida  al  Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia1, 
by  Dr.  Enrico  Abbate  (5  fr.;  Rome,  1888). 

From  Aqetla  to  Avezzano,  ca.  31  M.,  diligence  daily  in  7  hrs.  (8  hrs. 
in  the  reverse  direction).  The  road  descends  into  the  Aterno  Valley, 
crosses  the  railway,  and  ascends  slowly  through  vineyards.  Beyond  Ocre 
it  passes  through  an  oak-plantation.  Fine  retrospect  of  Aquila  and  the 
Gran  Sasso;  farther  on,  view  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Maiella.  Numerous  villages 
and  hamlets  lie  on  the  surrounding  slopes.  15'/2  M.  (4!/2  hrs'.  drive  from 
Aquila)  Rocca  di  Mezzo,  a  wretched  village  on  the  plateau,  where  horses 
are  changed.  About  1  hr.  beyond  Rocca,  near  Ovindoli  with  its  pictur- 
esque ruin,  we  reach  the  top  of  the  pass  and  begin  to  descend  rapidly 
on  the  other  side.  'View  of  the  plain  of  the  Lago  di  Fucino  (p.  182).  The 
castle  of  Celano  and  then  the  village  itself  soon  come  into  sight  and  are 
reached  in  3f\  hr.  more.     Thence  to  Avezzano,  see  p.  182. 

As  the  train  proceeds  we  obtain  a  pretty  retrospective  view  of 
Aquila.  The  scenery  of  the  valley  is  very  striking ;  to  the  N.  the 
Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia.  69  M.  Paganica,  21/^  M.  from  the  village  of 
that  name  (see  p.  180);  74  M.  S.  Demetrlo  ne'  Vestini ;  771/2  M.  Fa- 
gnano-Alto  Campana;  80y2  M.  Fontecchio,  the  village  of  which  is 
perched  high  up  on  the  rocks.  The  valley  of  the  Aterno,  which  the 
railway  descends,  contracts.  — 84  M.  Beffi,  with  a  large  castle  to 
the  left.  —  The  train  now  descends  a  steep  gradient.  —  87  M. 
Acciano ;  90  M.  Molina.  Then  three  long  tunnels ;  part  of  the  line  lies 
high  above  the  river.  —  95  M.  Rajano  (p .  1 84).  Here  the  railway  leaves 
the  Aterno,  which  flows  to  the  N.E.  to  Popoli,  and  begins  to  ascend 
the  luxuriant  valley  of  Solmona,  watered  by  the  Oizio,  a  tributary 
of  the  Aterno.  To  the  E.  is  the  Majella  chain,  and  to  the  W.  the 
hills  enclosing  the  Lago  di  Fucino.     102  M.  Solmona,  see  p.  188. 

13.  From  Rome  to  Castellammare  Adriatico 
vi&  Avezzano  and  Solmona. 

149  M.  Railwat  (no  express-trains)  in  91/4-HV2  hrs.  (fares  27  fr.  15, 
19  fr.,  12  fr.  25  c). 

From  Rome  to  Mandela  via  Tivoli,  see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy. 
Beyond  Mandela  the  train  follows  the  ancient  Via  Valeria  and 
the  Teverone.  —  36  M.  Cineto  -  Romano  (diligence  to  Subiaco); 
38  M.  Roviano.  The  railway  now  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Teverone 
and  ascends  a  steep  incline  to  (41  M.)  Arsoli,  prettily  situated  on 
a  hill,  with  a  castle  of  the  Massimi.  Tunnel.  —  42y2  M.  Riofreddo, 
situated  on  the  tributary  of  the  Teverone  of  that  name. 

Near  (43y2  M.)  Cavaliere  lay  the  iEquian  town  of  Carseoli,  the 
ruins  of  which  were  used  in  the  middle  ages  to  build  Arsoli  (see 
above)  and  CaTsoli.  High  up  on  a  hill  (3410  ft.)  to  the  S.E.  lie 
the  church  and  convent  of  8.  Maria  dei  Bisognosi ,  with  paintings 
dating  from  1488  and  a  wonder-working  crucifix  (visited  on  Sun. 
by  many  pilgrims  from  the  surrounding  district).  —  47  M.  Carsoli 
(Loc.  Stella,  tolerable),   commanded  by  a  picturesque  ruined  castle. 


182      Route  13.  AVEZZANO.  From  Rome 

The  railway  now  ascends  the  narrow  valley  to  (50V2  M.)  Colli, 
beyond  which  we  reach  the  tunnel  of  Monte  Bove,  the  longest  on  the 
railway  (more  than  3  M.).  541/2  M.  Sante  Marie.  We  then  descend 
to  (57  M.)  Tagliacozeo,  a  small  town  at  the  mouth  of  a  deep  ravine, 
in  which  rises  the  Imele,  the  Himella  of  antiquity.  The  sources  of 
the  Liris  lie  4!/2  M.  to  the  S.,  near  Cappadocia. 

The  train  now  enters  the  fertile  Campi  Palentini,  the  most 
beautiful  part  of  the  territory  of  the  Marsi ,  surrounded  by  lofty 
mountains,  the  highest  of  which,  the  double-peaked  Monte  Velino 
(8160  ft.),  to  the  N.E.,  is  visible  as  far  as  Rome.  Here,  on  26th  Aug., 
1268,  the  young  Conradin  of  Hohenstaufen ,  the  last  scion  of  that 
illustrious  imperial  house ,  was  defeated,  notwithstanding  the  bra- 
very of  his  knights,  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou  ,  who  had  placed  a  part 
of  his  army  in  ambush.  —  62  M.  Scurcola ,  dominated  by  an  old 
castle  of  the  Orsini,  with  a  fine  view.  In  the  church  of  S.  Maria 
is  an  old  carved  wooden  figure  of  the  Virgin,  from  the  adjacent 
convent  of  S.  Maria  (see  below),  executed  by  order  of  Charles  of 
Anjou. 

The  train  next  crosses  the  Salto,  passing  on  the  left  the  ruins 
of  the  abbey  of  S.  Maria  della  Vittoria,  which  was  built  by  Charles 
of  Anjou  in  commemoration  of  his  victory  over  Conradin  (see  above). 
The  building ,  the  architect  of  which  was  Niccolo  Pisano ,  was, 
however,  soon  destroyed.  —  63  M.  Cappelle  Magliano. 

67  M.  Avezzano  (Alb.  Vittoria,  clean,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2^4,  omn. 
Y2  f*. ;  omnibus  from  the  station  to  the  town  25  c,  at  night  35  c), 
a  town  of  7400  inhab.,  with  a  chateau  built  by  the  Colonnas  and 
now  belonging  totheBarberini,  is  a  good  starting-point  for  a  number 
of  excursions.  The  estate-office  of  Prince  Torlonia,  at  which  a 
permesso  to  see  the  reclamation- works  at  the  Lago  di  Fucino  is 
obtained  (gratis),  contains  a  collection  of  objects  found  in  the  lake 
(see  below).  —  From  Avezzano  to  Aquila,  see  p.  181. 

About  4  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Avezzano,  at  the  base  of  Monte  Velino 
(see  below),  lies  the  village  of  Albe ,  the  ancient  Alba  Fucentia,  reached 
from  Antrosano  (one-horse  carr.  to  this  point  and  back  3-4  fr.)  by  a  walk 
of  3/4  hr.  It  lay  on  the  confines  of  the  territories  of  the  Vestini,  Marsi, 
and  iEqui,  and  having  received  a  Roman  colony  of  6000  souls,  B.C. 
303,  it  became  the  most  powerful  Roman  stronghold  in  the  interior  of 
Italy.  Three  summits  (that  to  the  N.E.  occupied  by  the  present  village) 
were  strongly  fortified  and  connected  by  a  massive  polygonal  wall.  In 
ascending  from  Antrosanto  we  pass  extensive  remains  of  this  wall ,  and 
the  castle  of  the  Orsini,  in  Albe,  incorporates  some  of  the  masonry  of 
the  ancient  fortifications.  On  the  S.W.  hill  is  a  Temple,  which  has  been 
converted  into  a  church  of  S.  Pietro,  with  eight  Corinthian  columns  of 
marble  in  the  interior  (key  obtained  from  the  Arciprete  or  from  the  Conte 
Pace  in  Albe).  On  the  Colle  di  Pettorino,  or  S.E.  hill,  are  large  polygonal 
walls.     Fine  view  of  the  valley. 

The  Ascent  of  Monte  Velino  (8160  ft.)  from  Avezzano  takes  1-2  days. 
The  night  is  passed  at  Magliano  or  Massa  d'Albe,  whence  the  top  is  reached 
in  6  hrs.,  with  guide. 

The  now  drained  Lago  di  Fucino  (2180  ft.),  the  ancient  Lacus 
Fucinus  ,  was  once  37  M.   in  circumference   and  65  ft.   in  depth. 


to  Castellammare.      LAGO  DI  FUCINO.  13.  Route.     183 

Owing  to  the  want  of  an  outlet,  the  level  of  the  lake  was  subject 
to  great  variations  which  were  frequently  fraught  with  disastrous 
results  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  banks.  Attempts  were  therefore 
made  to  drain  the  lake  in  ancient  times ,  but  it  was  only  very  re- 
cently (in  1875)  that  this  object  was  finally  accomplished. 

The  earliest  sufferers  from  the  inundations  were  the  ancient  Marsi,  in 
consequence  of  whose  complaints  Csesar  formed  the  project  of  affording  a 
permanent  remedy  for  the  evil ,  but  the  work  was  not  begun  till  the 
reign  of  the  Emp.  Claudius.  The  bottom  of  the  lake  lies  about  80  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  Liris  at  Capistrello,  and  the  plan  was  to  con- 
struct a  tunnel,  or  emissarius ,  through  the  intervening  Monte  Salviano. 
No  fewer  than  30,000  men  were  employed  in  the  execution  of  the  work 
during  eleven  years.  This  was  the  most  gigantic  undertaking  of  the 
kind  ever  known  before  the  construction  of  the  Mont  Cenis  tunnel.  The 
length  of  the  passage  was  upwards  of  3'/2  M.,  and  for  about  i3/t  M.  of  that 
distance  it  was  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  The  transverse  measurement  of 
the  tunnel  varied  from  4  to  16  sq.  yds.,  and  in  other  respects  also  the 
work  was  entirely  destitute  of  uniformity.  The  greatest  depth  of  the 
tunnel  below  the  surface  of  the  earth  was  298  ft.,  and  33  shafts  were 
constructed  for  the  admission  of  air  and  the  removal  of  rubbish.  With 
a  view  to  inaugurate  the  completion  of  the  work,  A.D.  52,  Claudius 
arranged  a  sanguinary  gladiatorial  naval  contest,  which  was  attended  by 
a  vast  concourse  of  spectators,  but  it  was  found  necessary  to  deepen  the 
tunnel,  and  it  was  again  opened  with  renewed  festivities,  as  Tacitus  re- 
cords (Ann.  xii.  57).  Ancient  writers  stigmatise  the  work  as  an  entire 
failure,  but  their  strictures  are  not  altogether  well  founded,  for  it  was 
obviously  never  intended  to  drain  the  whole  lake,  but  merely  to  reduce 
it  to  one-third  of  its  original  size.  Serious  errors  had,  however,  been 
committed  in  the  construction  of  the  tunnel,  and  especially  in  that  of  the 
channel  which  conducted  the  water  to  the  emissarius.  Claudius  died  in 
54,  and  nothing  farther  was  done  in  the  matter.  Trajan  and  Hadrian 
partially  remedied  the  defects,  but  the  channel  and  the  emissarius  itself 
afterwards  became  choked  up.  Frederick  II.  attempted  to  re-open  the 
tunnel,  but  the  task  was  far  beyond  the  reach  of  mediaeval  skill.  After 
the  year  1783  the  lake  rose  steadily,  and  by  1810  it  had  risen  upwards 
of  30  ft.  Efforts  were  now  made  under  the  superintendence  of  Rivera  to 
restore  the  Roman  emissarius,  but  under  the  Bourbon  regime  there  seemed 
little  prospect  that  the  task  would  ever  be  completed.  In  1852  the  govern- 
ment was  accordingly  induced  to  make  a  grant  of  the  lake  to  a  company 
on  condition  that  they  would  undertake  to  drain  it,  and  the  sole  privilege  was 
soon  afterwards  purchased  from  them  by  Prince  Torlonia  of  Rome  (d.  1886). 
M.  de  Montricher,  a  Swiss,  the  constructor  of  the  aqueduct  of  Marseilles  (d. 
at  Naples  in  1858),  and  his  pupil  Bermont  (d.  1870),  and  subsequently 
M.  Brisse  conducted  the  works.  The  difficulties  encountered  were  pro- 
digious, and  the  natives  were  frequently  heard  to  indulge  in  the  jest,  'o 
Torlonia  secca  il  Fucino,  o  il  Fucino  secca  Torlonia'.  In  1862,  however, 
the  emissarius  was  at  length  re-opened.  It  is  an  extension  of  the 
Roman  work,  but  longer  and  wider,  and  constructed  with  the  utmost 
care.  It  is  nearly  4  M.  long,  and  a  transverse  section  measures  about  21  sq. 
yds.  The  beginning  of  it  is  marked  by  a  huge  lock,  erected  in  a  massive 
style.  This  is  the  outlet  of  the  channel  which  is  intended  to  keep  the 
lowest  portions  of  the  basin  drained.  A  broad  road,  about  35  M.  in  length, 
runs  round  the  reclaimed  land  (36,000  acres  in  extent) ,  which  is  con- 
verted into  a  vast  model  farm,  colonised  by  families  from  the  prince's 
different  estates. 

An  excursion  to  Luco,  about  6  M.  from  Avezzano,  will  afford  the  traveller 
a  good  opportunity  of  inspecting  the  drainage  operations  (permesso  ne- 
cessary, see  p.  182).  He  should  drive  to  the  entrance  of  the  new  outlet 
(Ineile) ,  and  get  the  custodian  to  conduct  him  thence  to  the  ancient 
emissarius.  —  Luco,  now  an  uninteresting  place,  was  the  Lucus  Angitiae 
of  the  ancients,  and  was  called  after  a  temple  of  the  goddess  of  that  name. 


184     Route  13.  SOLMONA.  From  Rome 

The  site  of  the  temple  is  now  occupied  by  the  venerable  Benedictine  church 
of  S.  Maria  di  Luco,  situated  on  the  N.  side  of  the  village,  and  dating  from 
the  6th  or  7th  century.  Extensive  remains  of  walls  in  the  polygonal  style 
mark  the  boundary  of  the  Temenos  ,  or  sacred  precincts  of  the  temple. 
Fine  view  hence,  as  well  as  from  all  the  hills  around  the  lake. 

70  M.  Paterno.  —  73  M.  Celano,  a  town  with  7000  inhab.,  is 
beautifully  situated  on  a  Mil,  and  from  it  the  Lago  di  Fucino  is 
sometimes  called  Lago  di  Celano.  The  Castle  (*View),  erected  in 
1450,  was  once  occupied  by  the  unfortunate  Countess  Covella,  who 
was  taken  prisoner  by  her  son  Rugierotto.  Celano  was  the  birth- 
place of  Thomas  of  Celano  (d.  1253),  the  supposed  author  of  the 
celebrated  Latin  requiem,    'Dies  irae,  dies  ilia'. 

The  train  skirts  the  N.  side  of  theformer  lake,  andbeyond  [75 M.J 
Ajelli  begins  to  ascend.  77  M.  Cerchio.  Tunnel.  79  M.  Collarmele, 
in  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Oiovenco.  —  82  M.  Pescina,  the  seat  of 
a  bishop  and  birthplace  of  Card.  Mazarin  (1602-1661).  The  village 
of  S.  Benedetto  ,  2^2  M.  to  the  S.W.,  occupies  the  site  of  Marru- 
vium,  the  capital  of  the  Marsi,  remains  of  which  are  still  visible.  — 
85  M.  Carrito  Ortona,  picturesquely  perched  on  an  isolated  rock. 

On  quitting  the  (iiovenco  valley  the  train  penetrates  the  central 
ridge  of  the  Abruzzi  by  the  tunnel  of  Monte  Curro  (2!/5  M.) ,  the 
second  in  length  on  the  line.  Beyond  (89  M.)  Cocullo,  in  a  sequester- 
ed upland  valley,  we  thread  the  tunnel  of  Monte  Luparo  (1  M.  long) 
and  cross  the  watershed  between  the  valleys  of  Fucino  and  Sol- 
mona.  92  M.  Ooriano-Sicoli.  —  Beyond  the  following  tunnel  we 
obtain  a  splendid  **View  of  the  valley  of  Solmona.  Nearly  1000  ft. 
below  us  lies  Rajano  Inferiore ;  farther  off ,  Pentima  with  the  soli- 
tary cathedral  of  S.  Pelino  (p.  186);  in  the  middle  distance,  the 
isolated  hill  of  S.  Cosmo  (2210  ft.) ;  in  the  background  the  im- 
posing mass  of  the  Majella.  —  931/2  M.  Rajano  Superiore ,  nearly 
3  M.  from  Rajano  Inferiore,  which  is  a  station  on  the  Solmona  and 
Aquila  railway  (p.  181). 

The  train  now  descends  rapidly  along  the  side  of  the  valley, 
passing  through  several  tunnels,  to  (95  M.)  Prezza.  It  then  runs 
to  the  S.E.  through  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Sagittario,  crossing 
that  stream  beyond  (100  M.)  Anversa  Scanno  by  a  two-storied  via- 
duct of  16  arches.    103  M.  Bugnara. 

107  M.  Solmoua.  —  The  station  is  about  1/2  M.  from  the  town  (omni- 
bus 30  c).  —  Hotels.  Albeego  Toscano,  well  spoken  of;  Alb.  MoNzir,  at 
the  gate,  near  the  railway-station,  R.  lfr.,  tolerable.  —  Caffi  in  the  main 
street. 

Solmona  (1570  ft.),  with  18,500  inhab.,  the  ancient  Sulmo  of 
the  Paeligni,  the  birthplace  of  Ovid,  who  was  much  attached  to  this 
his  'cool  home,  abounding  in  water',  as  he  calls  it,  is  picturesquely 
situated,  being  commanded  on  two  sides  by  mountains,  and  con- 
tains several  mediseval  buildings  of  architectural  interest.  The 
palace  of  Baron  Tabassi,  in  a  side-street,  and  several  others  de- 
serve examination.  The  church  of  8.  Maria  Annunziata ,  and  the 
Gothic  facades  of  the  churches  of  S.  Francesco  a" Assist  and  S.  Maria 


to  Castellammare.  ISERNIA.  13.  Route.     185 

delta  Tomba,  though  all  more  or  less  injured  by  the  earthquake  of 
1706,  are  also  interesting.  The  church  of  S.  Francesco  was  built 
on  the  site  of  an  older  church,  a  Romanesque  portal  of  which, 
opposite  the  above-mentioned  hotel,  is  still  preserved,  and  serves 
as  an  entrance  to  the  meat-market.  In  front  of  it  are  an  aqueduct 
of  1256  and  a  tasteful  fountain  in  the  Renaissance  style  (1474).  At 
the  door  of  the  grammar-school  is  a  statue  of  Ovid  in  blackish 
stone,  dating  from  the  15th  cent.;  the  name  of  the  poet  still 
lingers  in  the  songs  of  the  district  as  that  of  a  famous  sorcerer. 
The  strong  fermented  wine  ('vino  cotto')  of  Solmona  has  some 
reputation. 

About  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Solmona,  and  H/2  M.  from  the  station,  lies  the 
Badia  di  S.  Spirito,  the  church  of  which  contains  some  paintings  by  Ra- 
phael Mengs.  Adjacent  are  extensive  remains  of  the  foundations  of  a  Ro- 
man building  known  as  the  'Villa  di  Ovidio'.  On  the  rock  above  the 
ruins,  picturesquely  situated,  is  the  Hermitage  of  Celestine  V.  (comp.  p.  17S). 

About  16  M.  to  the  S.  of  Solmona  lies  Scanno  (3445  ft.),  reached  on  a 
mule  in  about  6  hrs.  (walking  not  recommended).  The  picturesque  route 
passes  several  villages,  and  then  ascends  the  wild  and  rocky  ravine  of  the 
Sagittario.  The  latter  part  of  it  skirts  the  lake  of  Scanno.  Scanno  (no 
inn,  private  introductions  desirable)  is  perhaps  the  finest  point  in  the 
Abruzzi.     The  women  of  Scanno  wear  a  peculiar  costume. 

The  Monte  Amaro  (9170  ft.),  the  highest  summit  of  the  Majella  Mis., 
may  he  ascended  from  Solmona.  Riding  is  practicable  to  the  Catnpo  di 
Oiove,  3-4  hrs.;  thence  to  the  top  (refuge-hut)  5  hrs. 

From  Solmona  to  Caianello  (Naples),  ca.  75  M.  Diligence  to  Rocca 
Ravindola  daily  in  9  hrs.,  starting  in  the  evening.  At  Rocca  Ravindola 
we  reach  the  railway  and  at  Caianello  catch  the  express  to  Naples.  Carr. 
and  pair  from  Solmona  to  (25  M.)  Castel  di  Sangro,  12  fr.  —  The  road 
traverses  the  plain  to  (6  M.)  Pettorano  and  then  ascends  circuitously  to 
Rocca  Pia  or  Rocca  Valloscura,  a  village  in  a  rocky  ravine.  Fine  retro- 
spects of  the  valley  of  Solmona.  Beyond  Rocca  we  ascend  to  the  Piano  di 
Cinquemiglia  (4265  ft.),  a  mountain-girt  upland  plain,  the  extent  of  which 
is  indicated  by  its  name.  In  winter  this  plain  is  often  impassable  for 
months  on  account  of  the  snow,  and  even  in  summer  the  temperature  is 
low.  After  passing  the  plain  we  see  Rivisondoli  to  the  left.  Roccarasa  is 
passed  on  the  right.  The  road  then  winds  down  to  the  valley  of  the  Sangro, 
the  ancient  Sagrus.  The  village  to  the  left  is  Rocca  Cinquemiglia.  We 
cross  the  river  and  reach  — 

25  M.  Castel  di  Sangro  (Hdlel  du  Commerce,  in  the  Piazza),  picturesquely 
situated  at  the  foot  of  lofty  mountains,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  wide  and 
rapid  Sangro.  Its  only  objects  of  interest  are  a  ruined  castle  and  the  old 
church  of  S.  Nicola,  by  the  bridge. 

The  road  to  Isernia  (22  M.)  ascends  the  hills  separating  the  valley  of 
the  Sangro  from  that  of  the  Vandra,  an  affluent  of  the  Volturno.  Fine  view 
at  the  top;  below,  to  the  left,  the  town  of  Forli.  We  descend  through 
the  villages  of  Rionera  and  Vandria,  cross  the  valley,  and  ascend  another 
range  of  hills,  on  the  crest  of  which  we  obtain  a  view  of  Isernia  and  the 
wide  valley  of  the  Volturno. 

47  M.  Isernia  (Loc.  di  Pettorossi),  the  ancient  Samnite  town  of  J2semia, 
formerly  of  importance  on  account  of  its  strong  situation  on  an  isolated  hill, 
now  consists  mainly  of  one  long,  narrow ,  and  dirty  main  street.  A  few 
Roman  remains  are  visible  at  the  church  of  S.  Pietro  and  elsewhere,  and 
also  some  relics  of  the  ancient  polygonal  walls. 

Archaeologists  may  make  an  excursion  hence  to  Pietrabbondante,  with 
the  ruins  (theatre  and  temple)  of  the  Samnite  Bovianum.  Road  to  (9  M.) 
Petcolanciano  (diligence  at  10.30  a.m. ;  corricolo6fr.);  thence  bridle-path  5  M. 

From  Isernia  a  diligence  runs  daily  to  Campobasso  (p.  191),  via  Boiano, 


186     Route  13.  CHIETI. 

the  ancient  Bovianum  Undecimanorum.  One-horse  carr.  from  Isernia  to 
Venafro  6  fr. 

Feom  Iseknia  to  Caianello,  ca.  28  M.,  railway  in  progress  (open  from 
Rocca  Ravindola).  The  road  at  first  traverses  a  hilly  district ,  passing 
Macchia  on  the  right,  and  then  enters  the  valley  of  the  Volturno,  which 
it  crosses.  10  M.  Rocca  Ravindola.  —  From  Rocca  Ravindola  to  Caianello, 
18  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  5  M.  Venafro,  the  ancient  Vena/rum,  a  small 
town  rising  on  a  hill,  famous  for  its  oil  in  the  days  of  Horace  (Od.  ii.  6); 
it  is  commanded  by  a  ruined  castle.  The  railway  skirts  the  mountains. 
8  M.  Sesto  Campano;  10  M.  Sesto  Capriati;  1372  M.  Presenzano  (see  p.  6), 
18  M.  Caianello  (poor  inn,  not  suitable  for  spending  the  night),  a  small 
village  and  a  station  on  the  railway  from  Rome  to  Naples. 

From  Caianello  to  Naples,  see  R.  1. 

The  railway  now  bends  sharply  to  the  N. ,  towards  the  Talley 
of  the  Aterno.  —  HO1/^  M.  Pratola-Peligna. 

113  M.  Pentima.  A  short  distance  hence  is  the  Cathedral  of 
*8.  Pelino  (keys  kept  by  the  canon  at  the  village),  an  edifice  of  the 
13th  century.  The  architecture  is  very  interesting,  but  the  interior 
has  unfortunately  been  modernised.  Old  pulpit.  Chapel  of  St. 
Alexander  of  the  16th  century. 

On  the  lofty  surrounding  plain  lie  the  ruins  of  the  extensive  ancient 
city  of  Corflnium,  once  the  capital  of  the  Pseligni.  In  B.C.  90  it  was  consti- 
tuted the  federal  capital  of  the  Italians  during  their  struggle  against  the 
Romans  for  independence,  and  called  Italica,  but  a  few  years  later  it  had 
to  succumb  to  the  Romans.  The  discoveries  made  in  the  course  of  the 
recent  excavations  at  the  necropolis  and  other  points  are  exhibited  in  the 
small  Museum  here,  the  key  of  which  may  be  obtained  from  the  attentive 
Inspettore  Cav.  de  Nino  at  Solmona  (interesting  for  archaeologists  only). 

116!/2M.  P opoli f'Locanda dell'  America,  moderate;  Posta),  a  town 
with  7000  inhab.,  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  roads  from  Pescara, 
Aquila,  Avezzano,  and  Solmona,  and  commanded  by  the  ruined 
castle  of  the  Cantelmi,  who  were  once  masters  of  the  place.  A  little 
above  the  town  the  Gizio  and  Aterno  unite  to  form  the  Pescara, 
along  which  the  railway  descends  till  it  approaches  the  sea. 

118V2  M.  Bussi.  The  valley  is  enclosed  on  both  sides  by  abrupt 
cliffs.  Tunnel.  —  125'/2M.  Torre  de'  Passeri,  picturesquely  situated. 
Connoisseurs  of  early  Christian  architecture  should  visit  the  ab- 
bey of  <S.  Clemente  di  Casauria,  l'/4  M.  from  Torre  de'  Passeri, 
a  basilica  of  the  12th  cent.,  with  ancient  sculptures.  This  was  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Interpromium,  relics  from  which  are  still  pre- 
served in  the  church. 

1291/2  M.  8.  Valentino;  13iy2  M.  Alanno;  135M.  Manoppello. 

140  M.  Chieti.  —  The  Station  is  about  3  M.  from  the  town,  which 
lies  on  the  heights  to  the  E.  (omnibus  60  c,  in  the  reverse  direction 
50  c);  about  halfway  the  road  passes  a  ruined  baptistery. 

Hotels  in  the  town:  *Albergo  del  Sole,  R.  l'/a  fr.,  good  trattoria; 
Albeego  Ndovo  ;  Palomba  d'  Oko. 

Chieti  (1065  ft.),  the  ancient  Teate  Marrucinorum,  capital  of  a 
province,  with  22,000  inhab.,  is  a  clean  and  busy  town.  From  the 
Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele  a  promenade  leads  round  the  town,  affording 
magnificent  *Views  of  the  Maiella  group,  the  course  of  the  Pescara, 
and  the  hill  country  extending  to  the  sea  (the  finest  from  the 
drilling-ground  on  the  S.).    The  order  of  the  Tlieatines     founded 


SORA.  14.  Route.     187 

in  1555  by  Paul  IV.,  who  had  been  Archbishop  of  Chieti,  derives 
"its  name  from  this  town. 

The  valley  of  thePescara  gradually  expands.  Beyond  (1481/2M.) 
Pescara  (p.  190)  the  line  crosses  the  river.  —  149  M.  Castellam- 
mare  Adriatico,  see  p.  190. 

14.  From  Avezzano  to  Roccasecca  (Naples). 

Fkom  Avezzano  to  Roccasecca,  about  50  M. ;  diligence  daily  (at  1  a.m.) 
in  7'/4  hrs.  to  Sora;  from  Sora  to  Roccasecca  railway.  The  diligence 
corresponds  with  the  trains  of  the  Rome  and  Naples  railway. 

Avezzano,  see  p.  182.  The  drive  through  the  valley  of  the  Liris 
to  Roccasecca  (railway  under  construction)  is  one  of  the  most  attract- 
ive in  Italy.  The  road  traverses  the  Monte  Salviano,  and  reaches 
(7J/2  M.)  Capistrello,  where  the  emissarius  of  the  Lago  di  Fucino 
(see  p.  182)  issues  from  the  mountain.  It  then  follows  the  left  bank 
of  the  Liris.  The  imposing  pyramid  of  Monte  Viglio  (7075  ft. ;  as- 
cended from  Filettino  on  the  W.  side),  to  the  W.  of  Liris,  domin- 
ates the  view.  On  a  height  on  the  right  bank  lies  (4  M.)  Civitella 
Roveto,  the  capital  of  the  Val  di  Roveto ,  as  the  upper  part  of  the 
valley  of  the  Liris,  as  far  as  Sora,  is  called.  Then,  to  the  left,  Civita 
d'Antino,  the  Antinum  of  the  Marsi,  with  several  relics  of  antiquity. 
To  the  right  of  the  river  lies  Morino,  whence  the  fine  waterfall  of 
Lo  Schioppo,  5  M.  distant,  may  be  visited.  The  beautiful  oak  and 
chestnut  woods  have  of  late  been  freely  cut  down. 

A  charming  mountainous  district  is  now  traversed.  We  pass 
(12l/2  M.)  Balsorano,  and  after  7  hrs'.  drive  from  Avezzano  (in  all 
31  M.)  reach  the  town  of  — 

Sora  (Hdtel  di  Roma,  Alb.  di  Liri,  both  with  trattorie),  with 
13,200  inhab.,  situated  in  the  plain,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Liris, 
which  flows  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle  round  the  crowded  houses 
of  the  town.  The  Romans  wrested  the  place  from  the  Volsci,  and 
founded  a  powerful  colony  here,  B.C.  303.  The  cathedral  stands 
on  ancient  substructures.  On  the  precipitous  rock  above  the  town, 
which  forms,  as  it  were,  the  key  of  the  Abruzzi,  are  remains  of 
polygonal  walls,  and  also  traces  of  mediaeval  castles.  The  town  was 
the  native  place  of  several  celebrated  men,  and  the  residence  of 
others  (the  Decii,  Attilius  Regulus,  the  orator  Q.  Valerius,  L.  Mum- 
mius,  etc.).  The  learned  Cardinal  Caesar  Baronius  (1538-1607)  was 
born  at  Sora. 

The  Railway  from  Sora  to  Roccasecca  (20  M.,  in  about 
1^2 hr.)  traverses  the  well-cultivated  valley,  following  the  left  bank 
of  the  river.  The  abundance  of  water  here  imparts  a  freshness  and 
charm  to  the  scenery  which  are  rarely  met  with  in  warm  climates. 
To  the  left  the  Fibrenus  falls  into  the  Liris. 

In  the  Fibrenus,  near  its  mouth,  lies  the  Isola  8.  Paolo,  on  which 
a  monastery  was  founded  by  the  Benedictine  S.  Domehico  Abbate,  a 
native  of  Foligno.  Hildebrand,  afterwards  Pope  Gregory  VII.,  was  once 
a  monk  here.     The  island  is  also  supposed  to  be  the  Insula  Arpinas,   the 


188   Route  14.  ISOLA. 

birthplace  of  Cicero,  the  scene  of  his  dialogue  'de  legibus'.  The  abbey- 
church,  recently  restored,  is  an  interesting  edifice  of  the  12th  century. 
Cicero's  villa  was  erected  by  his  grandfather,  and  embellished  by  his  father, 
who  devoted  his  leisure  to  the  study  of  science  here,  and  it  was  therefore 
a  favourite  retreat  of  Cicero  himself,  and  is  described  by  him  in  his 
treatise  De  Leg.  2,  3.  In  the  reign  of  Domitian  the  villa  belonged  to  the 
poet  Silius  Italicus.  The  Liris  was  crossed  by  an  ancient  bridge  above 
the  island,  the  '■Ponle  di  Cicerone ',  one  of  the  three  arches  of  which  is 
still  standing. 

In  the  neighbourhood  are  several  manufactories,  chiefly  of  paper 
(cartiera),  surrounded  by  well-kept  gardens.  The  *Gardens  con- 
nected with  the  former  Cartiera  del  Fibreno,  founded  by  M.  Lefevre, 
a  Frenchman,  now  Count  of  Balzorano,  contain  the  picturesque  wa- 
terfalls (Le  Cascatelle)  of  the  Liris  and  the  Fibrenus.  The  cool 
water  of  the  latter  is  praised  by  Cicero. 

3y2  M.  Isola  (Alb.  d'ltalia,  outside  the  town,  unpretending), 
or  Isola  Liri ,  a  small  town  with  6000  inhab.  ,  which ,  as  its  name 
indicates,  stands  on  an  island  in  the  Liris.  The  two  anns  of  the  river 
here  form  two  magnificent  waterfalls,  80  ft.  in  height.  That  on  the 
E.  side,  a  view  of  which  is  obtained  from  the  bridge  as  the  town  is 
entered,  is  a  perpendicular  fall,  while  the  other  and  more  pictur- 
esque cascade,  to  see  which  we  cross  the  second  bridge  and  keep  to 
the  right,  is  broken  by  the  rocks  into  several  arms. 

About  3  jr.  to  the  W.  of  Isola  (good  road;  carr.  3-4  fr.)  lies  the  abbey 
of  SS.  Giovanni  e  Paolo  di  Casamari,  now  declared  national  property,  with 
a  well-preserved  "'Church  of  the  heginning  of  the  12th  century.  The  name 
preserves  the  memory  of  the  birthplace  of  Marius  at  Cereatae,  afterwards 
known  as  Cereatae  Marianae. 

7  M.  Arpino,  station  for  the  town  of  that  name  situated  high 
above  the  valley.  Arpino  (Locanda  della  Pace,  near  the  Piazza)  is 
a  finely  situated  town  with  12,000  inhab.,  the  ancient  Volscian 
mountain-town  of  Arpinum,  and  celebrated  as  the  home  of  Marius 
(see  above)  and  Cicero.  The  Town  Hall  in  the  Piazza  is  embellished 
with  busts  of  Marius,  Cicero,  and  Agrippa.  Arpino  was  the  native 
place  of  the  well-known  painter  Giuseppe  Cesari  (1560-1640),  more 
commonly  known  as  the  Cavaliere  d' Arpino,  whose  house  is  still 
pointed  out. 

The  present  town  occupies  only  a  small  part  of  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Arpinum.  The  citadel  of  the  latter  lay  on  an  abrupt  emin- 
ence, connected  with  the  town  by  a  narrow  isthmus  and  now  occupied 
by  the  small  octagonal  church  of  S.  Maria  della  Civitcl  (view).  The 
town  itself  rose  on  the  slope  of  a  still  higher  hill.  The  greater  part 
of  the  ancient  wall,  consisting  of  large  irregular  blocks  of  stone, 
broken  at  intervals  by  mediaeval  round  towers,  is  still  preserved, 
and  may  be  traced  throughout  its  whole  extent.  The  ascent  should 
be  made  on  the  N.  side.  On  the  hill  stands  the  Porta  dell  Arco,  a 
remarkable  gateway  with  a  pointed  arch. 

IOV2  M.  Fontane.  —  13y2  M.  Arce,  in  a  strikingly  picturesque 
situation.  —  The  line  here  quits  the  valley  of  the  Liris,  and  runs 
to  the  S.  E.  to  (20  M.)  Boccasecca;  seep.  3. 


189 
15.  From  Ancona  to  Foggia  (Brindisi). 

201  M.  Railway  in  83/i-12  hrs.;  fares  36  fr.  50,  25  fr.  55,  14  fr.  60  c. 
(3rd  class  by  express  18  fr.  25  c).  —  Ancona  is  347  M.  -distant  from  Brin- 
disi, to  which  an  express  train  runs  daily  in  15'/4  hrs.  in  correspondence 
with  the  quick  trains  from  Milan  and  Bologna  (fares  62  fr.  90  c,  44  fr.  5, 
31  fr.  45  c.) ;  also  once  weekly  (Sun.)  in  ll3/4  hrs.  (from  Bologna  to 
Brindisi  153/4hrs.),  in  connection  with  the  English  mail  to  India,  carrying 
first-class  passengers  to  Brindisi  only.  The  local  trains  stop  for  the  night 
at  Pescara  or  Foggia. 

The  line  skirts  the  coast,  affording  a  sea  view  to  the  left,  and  an  in- 
land view  to  the  right.  The  towns,  generally  situated  on  the  heights,  at 
some  distance  from  the  railway,  communicate  regularly  with  their  stations 
by  diligence ;  but  these  Vehicles  have  little  pretension  to  comfort. 

From  Ancona  -via,  (372  M.)  Varano,  (10  M.)  Osimo,  (15  M.) 
Loreto,  (17V2  M.)  Porto  Recanati,  and  (23  M.)  Potenza  Picena  to 
(261/a  M.)  Porto  Civitanova,  see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy.  —  Porto 
Civitanova,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chienti,  is  the  station  for  the  town  of 
Civitanova,  -which  lies  l1^  M.  inland.  A  railway  runs  hence  to 
Fabriano  via.  Macerata  and  Albacina  (see  Badeker's  Central  Italy). 

The  railway  to  Foggia  and  Brindisi  crosses  the  Chienti.  31  M. 
iS.  Elpidio  a  Mare.  The  village  of  8.  Elpidio  lies  several  miles 
inland.  —  The  Tenna  is  next  crossed. 

36!/2  M.  Porto  S.  Giorgio,  with  a  handsome  castle. 

On  the  hill ,  3  M.  inland ,  is  situated  Fermo  (Locanda  delV  Aquila ; 
seat  in  a  carriage  50  c),  the  ancient  Firmurn  Picerwm,  with  18,000  inhab., 
and  the  seat  of  an  archbishop.  It  became  a  Roman  colony  after  the  begin- 
ning of  the  First  Punic  War,  and  has  continued  since  that  period  to  be  a 
town  of  some  importance.  At  the  Porta  S.  Francesco,  by  which  the  town 
is  entered ,  are  seen  remnants  of  the  ancient  wall ,  constructed  at  a  very 
remote  period.  The  streets  ascend  somewhat  precipitously  to  the  height 
on  which  the  handsome  Piazza  is  situated ;  the  Town  Sail  here  contains 
some  inscriptions  and  antiquities.  Outside  the  town  we  obtain  fine  views 
of  the  fertile  district,  the  Apennines,  and  the  sea. 

The  train  next  crosses  the  brooks  Lete  Vivo  and  Aso.  43  M. 
Pedaso;  48  M.  Cupra  Marittima;  50  M.  Orottammare  (Pens.  Giusti, 
pens.  5  fr.,  open  also  in  winter),  frequented  for  sea-bathing.  On 
the  hill,  about  4!/2  M.  inland,  is  Ripatransone  (6000  inhab.).  Near 
Cupra  Marittima  (Marano)  once  lay  the  ancient  town  of  that  name, 
with  a  celebrated  temple  dedicated  to  the  Sabine  goddess  Cupra,  and 
restored  by  Hadrian  in  A.D.  127. 

53  M.  8.  Benedetto  (Inn  at  the  station) ,  a  village  on  the  coast. 

Feom  S.Benedetto  to Ascoli  Piceno,  2O1/2M.,  railwayin  lV4hr.  (fares 
3  fr.  75,  2  fr.  65,  1  fr.  70  c).  The  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Tronto, 
passing  Porto  d'Ascoli,  Monteprandone,  Montesampolo.  Spinetoli-Colli,  Offida- 
Cattel  di  Lama,  and  Marino.  —  Ascoli  Piceno  (' "Locanda  delV  Aquila,  mode- 
rate), the  ancient  Asculum  Picenum,  with  23,300  inhab.,  the  seat  of  a  bishop 
and  capital  of  a  province,  is  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Tronto.  The 
valley  is  here  contracted  and  enclosed  by  lofty  mountains.  To  the  N.  rises 
the  jagged  Monte  deW  Ascensione  (3610  ft.),  to  the  W.  the  Sibilla,  and  more  to 
the  S.  the  Pizzo  di  Sevo.  Ascoli,  an  ancient  town  in  a  commanding  situation, 
the  capital  of  the  tribe  of  Picentines,  took  a  prominent  part  in  the  Social 
War  against  Rome,  and  was  captured  and  destroyed  by  Pompey.  Interesting 
remains  of  the  ancient  walls,  a  bridge,  and  a  "Gate  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
town.  The  town-hall  contains  a  few  inscriptions,  and  other  relics  are 
encountered  in  other  parts   of  the   town ,   e.  g.   insignificant  vestiges  of  a. 


190   Route  15.  TERAMO.  From  Ancona 

theatre  and  amphitheatre.  The  architecture  of  the  churches  and  palaces 
dates  chiefly  from  a  period  anterior  to  the  Renaissance,  materially  en- 
hancing the  interest  of  the  town ,  which  is  indeed  the  most  attractive  on 
the  E.  coast  of  S.  Italy.  The  ''Cathedral  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  Constantine  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Hercules.  The  original  sub- 
structures are  still  traceable.  A  chapel  on  the  right  in  the  interior  con- 
tains good  pictures  by  Crivelli.  In  jS.  Vittore,  Romanesque  mural  paint- 
ings of  the  12th  and  13th  cent,  were  discovered  under  the  whitewash  in 
1890.  —  Mountain-roads  lead  hence  via,  Norcia  to  Spoleto,  and  others  through 
the  valleys  of  the   Velino  and  Aterno  to  Aquila  (p.  178). 

Beyond  (56  M.)  Porto  d'Ascoli  the  train  crosses  the  Tronto,  the 
ancient  Truentus,  formerly  the  boundary  between  the  States  of  the 
Church  and  the  kingdom  of  Naples.  62  M.  Tortoreto. 

68  M.  Giulianova,  a  dirty  village  with  a  few  fine  villas  on  the 
hill,  1^4  M.  from  the  coast,  built  in  the  15th  cent,  by  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  ancient  Castrum  Novum  on  the  Tordino,  and  then  nam- 
ed S.  Flaviano. 

Fkom  Giulianova  to  Teeamo,  16  M.,  railway  in  lhr.  (fares  2fr.  95, 2fr. 
10, 1  fr.  35  c).  The  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Tordino,  passing  Mosciano- 
S.  Angela,  Notaresco,  Bellante- Ripattone ,  Castellalto-Camano.  —  Teramo 
(Albergo  Pellegrino,  Via  Delfico;  Caffe  Zippetta,  Corso  S.  Giorgio;  omn. 
from  the  station  to  the  town ,  1/t-l/t  fr)i  the  ancient  Interamna ,  is  the 
capital  of  a  province  and  seat  of  a  bishop,  with  20,400  inhabitants.  The 
Gothic  cathedral  is  now  modernised;  in  the  interior  is  an  antependium  by 
the  goldsmith  Nicola  di  Guardiagrele  (15th  cent.).  —  A  road  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Vomano  from  Teramo ,  passing  Montorio  and  Fano  Adriano, 
ascending  between  the  Monte  Piano  (5645  ft.)  and  the  Monte  Cardilo,  leaving 
Monte  S.  Franco  (7000  ft.)  to  the  S.,  and  then  descending  in  many  curves 
past  S.  Vittorino  (p.  180)  where  several  roads  meet,  to  Aquila  (p.  178).  — 
Ascent  of  the  Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia,  see  p.  180. 

The  train  crosses  the  Tordino,  the  ancient  Batinus,  and  then 
beyond  (73  M.)  Montepagano  the  Vomano  (Vomanus).  To  the  right 
a  fine  yiew  is  obtained  of  the  Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia  (p.  180),  which 
is  here  visible  from  base  to  summit.  —  79!/2  M.  Atri-Mutignano. 

Atri  (1390  ft.;  "Albergo  di  Vine.  Marcone),  6  M.  inland  (diligence  daily, 
1  fr.  25  c. ;  other  conveyances  rarely  obtainable),  the  ancient  Batria,  an  epis- 
copal residence,  with  10,000  inhab.,  is  a  town  of  great  antiquity,  and  was 
once  celebrated  for  its  copper  coins.  Numerous  ruins  bear  testimony  to 
its  ancient  importance.  The  Gothic  cathedral,  with  its  frescoes  and  a  15th 
cent,  painting  of  the  Madonna  adoring  the  child,  merits  a  visit.  It  rests 
on  extensive  foundations  of  ancient  origin,  perhaps  those  of  a  temple. 
Extensive  *View  from  the  campanile.  Several  large  grottoes  near  the  town 
are  also  of  very  remote  date. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Piomba,  the  ancient  Matrinus,  5  M. 
inland  from  which  is  situated  Citth  Santangelo  (7000  inhab.). 
84  M.  Silvi ;  87  M.  Montesilvano. 

Penne,  16  M.  inland,  the  capital  of  the  district,  with  10,000  inhab.,  was 
the  Pinna  of  the  ancients,  and  chief  town  of  the  Vestini,  of  which  period 
various  relics  still  exist. 

90  M.  Castellammare  Adriatico,  junction  for  the  lines  to  Terni 
and  Aquila,  and  to  Rome,  Avezzano,  and  Solmona  (see  RR.  12,  13). 
—  The  train  next  crosses  the  Pescara  river. 

92  M.  Pescara  {Alb.  Rebecchino,  near  the  station,  with  trattoria, 
clean;  Leone  d'Oro;  Railway  Restaurant,  mediocre  and  dear),  a 
fortified  town  with  5500  inhab.,  is  situated  in  an  unhealthy  plain. 


to  Foggia.  TERMOLI.  15.  Route.     191 

The  mountain-group  of  the  Majella ,  culminating  in  Monte  Amaro 
(9160  ft.),  now  becomes  visible  on  the  right. 

The  train  crosses  the  Alento.  96  M.  Francavilla,  a  village  on  the 
hill  to  the  right.  Beyond  it  a  mountain-spur  projects  into  the  sea. 
Four  short  tunnels.  Beyond  the  third  the  fort  of  Ortona  becomes 
visible  on  the  left. 

105  M.  Ortona.  The  town  (Caprera;  Cafe  in  the  Piazza),  y2  M. 
from  the  station,  the  ancient  Ortona,  a  seaport-town  of  the  Fren- 
tani,  is  a  tolerably  clean  and  well-built  place  (12,000  inhab.), 
situated  on  a  lofty  promontory,  with  a  small  quay  on  the  shore  below. 
Beautiful  views  towards  the  S.  as  far  as  the  Punta  di  Penna  (see 
below),  especially  from  the  ancient  and  dilapidated  fort.  The  archi- 
tecture of  the  cathedral  should  be  inspected. 

Beyond  Ortona  the  train  passes  through  another  tunnel  and 
crosses  two  brooks.  109^2  M.  S.  Vito  Lanciano  is  the  station  for 
Lanciano,  6  M.  inland,  with  18,000  inhab.,  the  ancient  Anxanum. 
Between  S.  Vito  and  the  next  station  (113  M.)  Fossacesia  are  three 
tunnels,  beyond  which  we  obtain  a  pleasing  survey  of  the  peninsula, 
terminating  in  the  Punta  di  Penna. 

Near  (116  M.)  Torino  di  Sangro  the  train  crosses  the  Sangro, 
Lat.  Sagrus.  122  M.  Casalbordino.  Three  tunnels,  beyond  which 
Vasto  becomes  visible,  on  an  olive-clad  hill  on  the  right.  131  M. 
Vasto.    The  town  lies  on  the  hill,  I1/4  M.  from  the  station. 

Vasto  d'Aimone  (Locanda  delV  Indipendenza ;  Loc.  del  Peace; 
Cafft  Nazionale),  the  ancient  Histonium,  with  14,000  inhab.,  lies 
high,  and  commands  fine  views  as  far  as  the  Tremiti  islands  and 
Monte  Gargano.  The  small  cathedral  with  a  Gothic  facade  bears  a 
memorial  tablet  to  General  'Carlo  Antonio  Manhes,  distruttore  de' 
briganti,  primo  cittadino  del  Vasto',  date  1810.  A  small  museum 
in  the  town-hall  contains  inscriptions  and  other  relics  found  here. 
In  the  environs  are  extensive  olive-plantations. 

Beyond  (134  M.)  S.  Salvo  the  train  crosses  the  Trigno ,  Lat. 
Trinius.    139  M.  Montenero. 

14772  M.  Termoli  (Alb.  fy  Trattoria  della  Corona),  a  smalltown 
close  to  the  sea ,  with  mediaeval  walls,  excessively  dirty.  Charming 
survey  of  the  Majella  and  Abruzzi,  and  farther  on  of  the  Tremiti 
Islands  (the  Insulae  Diomedeae  of  mythology,  still  serving,  as  in 
antiquity ,  as  a  place  of  confinement)  and  Monte  Gargano  in  the 
distance.  The  cathedral ,  with  a  Gothic  facade  ,  contains  a  number 
of  quaintly  decorated  saints. 

From  Termoli  to  Benevento  via  Campobasso,  107  M. ,  railway  in 
7V4-10  hrs.  (fares  19  fr.  45,  13  fr.  65,  8  fr.  65  c).  Usually  no  tiain  in  direct 
connection  from  Campobasso.  The  journey  on  the  whole  is  monotonous. 
5'/2  M.  Ouglionesi-  Portoccmnone;  10  M.  S.  Martino  in  Pensilis;  17'/2  M. 
Vruri  Rotello;  23  M.  Larino,  near  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Larinum;  31  M. 
Casacalenda;  33Vs  M.  Bonefro;  3672  M.  Ripabottoni-Sant-Elia;  411/2M.  Cam- 
polieto-Monacilione;  47  M.  Matrice- Montagano ;  52  M.  Ripalimosano.  —  55  M. 
Campobasso  (Alb.  Centrales  Leone),  the  capital  of  a  province,  and  a  place  of 
some  importance,  with  15,000  inhab.,  is  noted  for  its  steel  wares.  — 59'/2  M. 


192   Route  15.  FOGGIA. 


From  Ancona 


Baranello;  62  M.  Vinchiaturo.  —  The  railway  here  begins  to  descend  the 
valley  of  the  Tanaro.  69  M.  S.  Giuliano  del  Sannio.  —  71 1/2  M.  Sepino; 
in  the  neighbourhood  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  ancient  Saepinum,  now 
Altilia.  —  75'/2  M.  S.  Croce  del  Sannio;  80  M.  Morcone;  85  M.  Pontelan- 
dolfo;  86V2M.  Campolattaro ;  90  M.  Fragneto  Monforte ;  92  M.  Pescolamazza: 
IO41/2  M.  Pietra  Elcina.  —  107  M.  Benevento,  see  p.  204. 

Beyond  Termoli,  where  the  cactus  first  makes  its  appearance, 
the  scenery  is  less  attractive.  The  train  crosses  the  Biferno,  Lat. 
Tifernus.  152  M.  Campomarino,  158  M.  Chieuti,  Albanian  settle- 
ments. From  Chieuti  a  road  runs  to  the  town  of  Serracapriola.  We 
next  cross  the  Fortore,  the  ancient  Frento. 

165  M.    Bipalta. 

Near  Ripalta,  on  15th  June,  1503,  the  Normans  defeated  and  captured 
Pope  Leo  IX. ,  and  then ,  falling  on  their  knees ,  implored  his  blessing. 
Leo,  relenting,  imparted  it,  and  subsequently  conferred  Apulia,  Calabria, 
and  Sicily  on  the  brothers  Humfred  and  Robert  Guiscard,  a  grant  which 
was  ultimately  fraught  with  consequences  so  important  to  Rome  and  the 
papal  throne,  as  well  as  to  the  Normans. 

To  the  N.E.  is  the  Lago  di  Lesina,  which  communicates  with 
the  sea.  The  train  now  proceeds  inland,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
promontory  of  Monte  Oargano  (p.  192),  a  buttress  of  the  Apennines 
projecting  into  the  sea,  with  several  peaks  about  3300ft.  in  height. 
1741/4  M.  Poggio  Imperiale;  177  M.  Apricena;  184  M.  San  Severo, 
a  dirty  town  with  17,500  inhab.,  which,  after  a  gallant  resistance, 
was  taken  and  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1799. 
The  cholera  committed  fearful  ravages  here  in  1865.  191  M.  Motta. 

201M.  Foggia.  —  Restaurant  at  the  station.  The  town  is  •/»  M. 
distant;  cab  lji  fr.  —  In  the  Town:  Albekgo  di  Milano  ;  Locanda  <fe  Risto- 
eatoee  Roma,  in  the  main  street,  very  mediocre. 

Foggia,  the  capital  of  a  province  formerly  called  the  Capitanata, 
and  the  junction  of  the  coast-railway  and  the  line  to  Benevento  and 
Naples  (R.  17),  is  a  clean,  thriving  town,  with  40,300  inhabi- 
tants. It  is  well  situated  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  and  forms 
the  central  point  of  the  great  Apulian  plain.  The  name  is  probably 
derived  from  the  pits  or  cellars  (Lat.  foveae ,  now  called  fosse  di 
grano~),  in  which  the  inhabitants  store  their  grain.  On  the  left, 
opposite  the  first  houses  of  the  town,  4/4  M.  from  the  station,  is  a 
portico  forming  the  entrance  to  the  Oiardino  Pubblico,  which  is 
adorned  with  several  busts.  Beyond  these  public  grounds  is  a  bo- 
tanic garden.  The  main  street  which  we  follow  now  takes  the  name 
of  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele.  To  the  left  in  the  piazza  planted  with 
trees  rises  a  monument  to  Vincenzo  Lanza  (1784-1860),  a  physician 
and  patriot,  who  was  born  at  Foggia.  After  5  min.  we  cross  the  Corso 
del  Teatro  and  reach  the  Piazza  Federico  II. ,  adorned  with  a  foun- 
tain (Pozzo  dell'  Imperatore),  situated  in  the  older  part  of  the  town. 
The  name  is  a  reminiscence  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.,  who  fre- 
quently resided  at  Foggia.  Built  into  the  wall  of  a  modern  house, 
in  the  side-street  to  the  right,  is  a  gateway  belonging  to  the  old  pal- 
ace of  the  emperor,  bearing  an  inscription  of  the  year  1223  relative 
to  the  foundation.    Leaving  the  Piazza  Federico  II.  and  turning  to 


to  Foggia.  MANFREDONIA.  1-5.  Route.    193 

the  left,  we  soon  reach  the  Cathedral,  which  was  originally  erected 
by  the  Normans,  partly  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1731,  and  af- 
terwards re-erected  in  a  modern  style.  Part  of  the  old  facade  only 
now  exists. 

A  great  part  of  the  spacious ,  treeless  plain  around  Foggia  is  used  as 
a  sheep-pasture  (Tavoliere  delta  Puglia).  During  the  summer  the  flocks 
graze  on  the  mountains,  and  in  October  return  to  the  plain  by  three  great 
routes  (Tratturi  delle  Pecore).  These  migrations,  during  which  hundreds 
of  flocks  may  be  encountered  in  one  day ,  date  from  the  Roman  period. 
Alphonso  I. ,  who  introduced  the  merino  sheep  ,  converted  the  pastures 
into  a  royal  domain  in  1445.  The  number  of  sheep  supported  by  these 
pastures  amounted  to  4V2  million  at  the  close  of  the  16th  cent.,  but  owing 
to  the  progress  of  agriculture,  is  now  reduced  to  less  than  half  a  million. 

About  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Foggia  are  the  scanty  remains  of  the  ancient 
town  of  Arpi,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Diomedes,  and  afterwards 
replaced  by  Foggia. 

From  Foggia  to  Manfeedonia,  22>/2  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  (fares  4  fr.  10, 
2  fr.  85,  1  fr.  85  c).  —  10  M.  Amendola;  15  M.  Fontanarosa.  —  22V2  M.  Man- 
fredonia,  a  quiet  town  with  8500  inhab.  and  the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  was 
founded  by  King  Manfred  about  1263,  and  destroyed  by  the  Turks  in  1620. 
It  now  contains  no  buildings  of  importance,  but  part  of  the  mediseval  forti- 
fications is  well  preserved.  Owing  to  the  sheltered  situation  of  the  town, 
to  the  S.  of  Monte  Gargano,  the  vegetation  is  very  luxuriant,  resembling  that 
of  Sicily  in  character.  —  About  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Manfredonia,  on  the  road 
to  Foggia,  is  the  v  Cathedral  of  8.  Maria  Maggiore  di  Siponto,  a  fine  example  of 
the  Romanesque  style,  with  a  crypt.  The  tastelessly  restored  interior  con- 
tains a  'miracle-working'  Madonna  and  numerous  votive  tablets.  This  church 
is  part  of  the  scanty  remains  of  the  old  8ipontum,  which  became  a  Roman 
colony  in  B.  C.  194.  Other  interesting  remains  of  the  old  town  have 
come  to  light  in  recent  excavations.  The  road  also  passes  8.  Leonardo, 
converted  into  a  commandery  of  the  Teutonic  Order  in  the  time  of  Her- 
mann von  Salza,  with  two  fine  portals,  now  used  as  a  'Masseria1,  or  farm- 
house ,   and  very   dilapidated. 

A  road,  at  first  traversing  olive-plantations,  and  then  ascending  in 
windings,  leads  hence  to  (IOV2  M.)  Monte  Santangelo  (2655  ft.),  with  a  pic- 
turesque castle,  and  a  famous  old  sanctuary  of  8.  Michele,  where  a  great 
festival  is  celebrated  on  8th  May.  The  chapel  consists  of  a  grotto  to 
which  55  steps  descend,  and  where,  as  the  legend  runs,  St.  Michael  appear- 
ed to  St.  Laurentius ,  Archbishop  of  Sipontum,  in  491.  In  the  11th  cent, 
the  warlike  Normans  undertook  pilgrimages  to  this  sacred  spot  before  they 
became  masters  of  the  country.  The  bronze  doors,  with  scenes  from  Script- 
ure, bear  the  inscription :  'Hoc  opus  completum  est  in  regia  urbe  Constan- 
tinopoli  adjuvante  Dno  Pantaleone  qui  fieri  jussit  anno  ab  incarnatione  Dni 
Millesimo  Septuagesimo  Sexto1  (comp.  p.  170).  —  From  this  point  31.  Calvo, 
the  culminating  point  of  Monte  Gargano  (3460  ft.),  is  most  easily  ascended. 
Between  Monte  Santangelo  and  Vico  lies  the  extensive  and  beautiful  beech- 
forest  called  Bosco  delV  Umbra,  which  stretches  towards  the  sea.  Farther 
to  the  N.  is  Ischitella;  towards  the  E.,  on  the  coast,  is  Viesti.  The  roads 
are  bad,  and  suitable  for  riding  and  walking  only. 

From  Foggia  to  Luceka,  12'/2  M.,  railway  in  about  40  min.  (fares 
2  fr.  30,  i  fr.  60,  1  fr.  5  c.) ;  three  trains  daily.  The  line  ascends  gradually 
through  arable  land. 

Lucera  (Albergo  d'ltalia),  a  town  with  14,500  inhab.,  the  ancient  Lu- 
ceria ,  was  regarded  as  the  key  of  Apulia,  owing  to  its  situation.  It  is  first 
heard  of  during  the  Samnite  wars,  and  in  B.C.  314  it  became  a  Roman 
colony.  It  continued  to  be  an  important  and  prosperous  town  down  to  the 
7th  cent,  after  Christ,  but  was  destroyed  in  663.  It  was  at  length  restored 
by  Frederick  II. ,  who  in  1223  transplanted  a  colony  of  Saracens  hither 
from  Sicily,  bestowing  on  them  entire  religious  freedom.  They  were  in 
consequence  staunch  adherents  of  the  Hohenstaufen  family,  and  accorded 
an  asylum  to  the  wife  and  children   of  Manfred   alter   the   battle   of  Bene- 

Baedekeb.    Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  13 


194    Route  15.  MELFI.  From  Ancona 

vento.  They  were,  however,  subdued  by  Charles  of  Anjou  in  1269 ,  and 
in  1300,  after  an  attempt  to  throw  off  the  yoke  of  Charles  II.,  were  com- 
pelled to  embrace  Christianity. 

The  town  lies  on  a  lofty  plain,  which  slopes  imperceptibly  towards 
the  S.  and  E.,  and  abruptly  towards  the  N.  and  W.  On  the  W.  side  the 
plateau  projects,  forming  a  kind  of  peninsula,  on  which  stands  the  ad- 
mirably preserved  "Castle  (keys  at  the  Municipio),  erected  by  Frederick, 
but  dating  in  its  present  form  from  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  It  is  an  in- 
teresting example  of  a  mediaeval  stronghold ,  and  occupies  the  site  of  the 
ancient  arx.  The  'View  embraces  the  plain  bounded  by  the  Apennines 
and  Monte  Gargano;  to  the  N.  lies  the  town  of  S.  Severo,  and  to  the  E. 
stretches  the  sea.  The  isolated  mountain  to  the  S.  is  the  Monte  Vulture 
near  Melfi,  the  summit  of  which  commands  a  survey  of  the  whole  of  Apu- 
lia. —  The  old  Cathedral,  which  had  fallen  into  ruin  in  the  time  of  Fred- 
erick II.,  was  restored  in  the  Gothic  style  after  the  conversion  of  the 
Saracens  by  the  Anjevins.  The  pilasters  of  the  nave  are  in  verde  antico. 
The  right  transept  contains  a  beautiful  figure  of  the  Madonna  in  marble, 
on  a  monument  of  1605.  Below  the  choir  is  a  crypt.  —  A  few  inscriptions 
dating  from  the  ancient  municipium,  which  far  exceeded  the  modern  town 
in  extent,  are  preserved  in  the  library  of  the  municipio,  or  town-hall. 
There  are  slight  traces  of  an  amphitheatre  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town. 

On  the  road  to  S.  Severo,  6  M.  from  Lucera,  lay  the  Castel  Fiorentino, 
where  Frederick  II.,  after  a  reign  of  38  years  as  a  German  king,  died  in 
1250,  in  his  56th  year.  

From  Foggia  xo  Rapolla-Lavello,  45  M.,  railway  in  21/-2  hrs. 
(fares  8  fr.  25,  5  fr.  80,  3  fr.  75  c).  —  5V2  M.  Cervaro,  seep.  207  ; 
11  M.  Ordona,  the  ancient  Herdonia,  with  an  ancient  bridge,  am- 
phitheatre, tombs,  etc. ;  19Y2  M.  Ascoli  Satriano  (Albergo  di  Roma, 
clean),  1V2M-  fr°m  tne  station  (cab  !/2  fr."),  charmingly  situated,  the 
ancient  Ausculum  Apulum,  famed  for  the  victory  gained  here  by 
Pyrrhus  over  the  Romans,  B.C.  279;  24y2  M.  Candela.  —  31  M. 
Rocchetto  S.  Antonio.  —  The  railway  now  descends  the  valley  of 
the  Ofanto,  the  Aufidus  of  the  ancients,  to  (39  M.)  S.  Nicola,  and 
thence  ascends,  to  the  S.,  the  valley  of  the  little  Rendina  to  — 

45  M.  Rapolla-Lavello,  the  present  terminus.  King  Conrad  IV. 
died  at  Lavello  in  1254.  The  railway  is  to  be  continued  to  Qioia 
del  Colle  (p.  200). 

Pending  the  opening  of  the  railway  from  Rocchetta  to  Melfi  and 
Potenza,  Rapolla-Lavello  is  the  best  starting-point  for  the  excursion 
to  (2  hrs.  to  the  W.)  — 

Melfi  (2065  ft.),  with  13,000  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  slope  of  Monte  Vulture,  and  largely  rebuilt  since  an  earthquake 
in  1857.  It  possesses  an  old  castle  of  the  Norman  sovereigns, 
who  often  resided  here,  now  restored  by  Prince  Doria  as  a  chateau. 
Here,  in  1059,  Pope  Nicholas  II.  invested  Robert  Guiscard  with 
the  duchies  of  Apulia  and  Calabria.  The  magnificent  Cathedral  of 
1155,  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the  earthquake,  has  since  been 
modernised.    The  town-hall  contains  a  fine  Roman  sarcophagus. 

From  this  point  the  conspicuous  Monte  Vulture  (4365  ft.),  an  extinct  vol- 
cano, may  be  visited.  Horace  mentions  it  as  the  'ApulianVultur';  at  that 
period  it  formed  the  boundary  between  Lucania  and  Apulia.  Calabria 
extended  hence  in  a  S.E.  direction  to  the  Japygian  or  Salentinian  pro- 
montory,  the   modern  Capo  di  Leuca  (p.  203);    and  S.W.  lay  the  land  of 


ioFoggia.  VENOSA.  15.  Route.      195 

the  Bruttii,  as  far  as  the  Sicilian  straits.  Since  the  middle  ages,  however 
the  latter  district  has  been  named  Calabria,  while  the  ancient  Calabria  is 
now  the  Terra  di  Otranto. 

The  former  crater  of  M.  Vulture  is  densely  overgrown  with  oaks  and 
beeches,  among  which  two  small  and  deep  lakes  are  situated.  By  one  of 
these  are  the  Capuchin  monastery  of  <S.  Michele ,  most  picturesquely 
situated,  and  the  ruined  church  of  S.  llano.  On  the  farther  side  of  the 
principal  crater  rises  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  II  Pizzuto  di  Melfi 
(4360  ft.).     The  circumference  of  the  whole  mountain  is  about  37  M. 

About  6  M.  to  the  SB.  of  the  station  of  Eapolla-Lavello  lies  Venosa, 
which  will  also  be  a  railway-station  when  the  line  is  prolonged. 

Venosa  (poor  inn),  the  ancient  Venusia,  colonised  by  Rome  after  the 
Samnite  war,  is  now  a  small  town  with  7500  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated 
on  the  slope  of  Monte  Vulture ,  not  far  from  the  Fiumara ,  the  'pauper 
aquse  Daunus'  of  Horace  (Carm.  iii,  30,  11).  The  Castle  was  erected  by 
Pirro  del  Balzo  in  the  15th  century.  The  abbey  and  church  of  S.  Trinita, 
consecrated  by  Pope  Nicholas  II.  in  1058  and  recently  badly  restored, 
contain  the  tombs  of  the  founder  Robert  Guiscard  and  his  first  wife 
Aberarda ,  mother  of  Boemund,  and  several  frescoes  of  the  13th  and  14th 
centuries.  The  three  principal  chapels  are  still  distinctly  recognised.  The 
handsome  court  contains  numerous  inscriptions,  columns,  and  other  relics 
of  an  amphitheatre,  which  lay  in  the   neighbourhood. 

Near  Venosa,  on  the  road  to  the  Fiumara,  Jewish  Catacombs,  with 
inscriptions  in  Hebrew,  Latin,  and  Greek,  were  discovered  in  1853.  History 
records  that  Jews  were  numerous  here  in  the  4th  and  5th  centuries. 

An  ancient  structure  of  'opus  reticulatum'  here  is  called  the  Casa  di 
Orazio,  but  without  the  slightest  authority.  Horace,  the  son  of  a  freedman, 
was  born  atVenusia,  on  8th  Dec.  B.C.  65,  and  there  received  his  elementary 
education,  after  which  his  father  took  him  to  Rome  in  order  to  procure 
him  better  instruction.  He  frequently  mentions  the  'far  resounding  Aundus' 
in  his  poems,  as  well  as  the  villages  in  the  vicinity  (Carm.  iii.  4,  14),  such  as 
the  lofty  Acherontia,  now  Acerenza  (p.  209),  9  M.  to  the  S.E.,  the  woods  of 
Bantia,  N.  of  the  latter,  now  Abbadia  de*  Banzi,  near  Genzano,  and  the 
fertile  meadows  of  the  low-lying  Ferentum  (probably  Forenza).  Near  Palazzo, 
6  M.  to  the  E.  of  Venosa,  to  the  right  of  the  road  to  Spinazzola,  rises  an 
abundant  spring,  now  called  Fontana  Grande,  believed  to  be  identical  with 
the  Fons  Bandusiae  so  highly  praised  by  Horace  (Carm.  iii.  13). 

On  the  wooded  heights  between  Venusia  and  Bantia,  in  B.C.  208, 
M.  Claud.  Marcellus,  the  gallant  conqueror  of  Syracuse,  and  the  first  gen- 
eral who  succeeded  in  arresting  the  tide  of  Hannibal's  success  (at  Nola, 
215),  fell  into  an  ambuscade  and  perished. 

16.  Prom  Foggia  to  Brindisi  and  the  Apulian 
Peninsula. 

Railway  to  Brindisi,  146  M. ,  in  5-61/2  hrs. ;  fares  26  fr.  40,  18  fr.  50, 
10  fr.  65  c.  (3rd  cl.  express  13  fr.  20  c.) ;  comp.  p.  189.  —  From  Brindisi  to 
Otranto,  54  31.,  in  3-3y2  hrs. ;  fares  9  fr.  75,  6  fr.  85,  3  fr.  90  c.  (3rd  cl.  express 
4  fr.  90  c);  only  two  through-trains  daily.  —  Excursions  in  the  country 
are  usually  made  here  in  two-wheeled  Sciarrabfcs  (a  corruption  of  the 
French  'char-a-bancs'),  resembling  the  Neapolitan  corricoli.  The  average 
charge  per  day  is  6-7  fr.,  fee  included,  and  the  average  journey  30-35  M. 

Foggia,  see  p.  192.  On  the  right  lies  an  extensive  plain,  the  Ta- 
voliere  della  Puglia.  Beyond  it,  to  theS.,  rises  Mte.  Vulture  (p.  194). 

12!/2  M.  Orta  Nova.  —  From  (22  M.)  the  station  Cerignola  a 
branch-railway  (V4I1T.;  fares  1  fr.  5,  60,  35  e.)  diverges  to  the 
town  of  Cerignola,  with  26,000  inhab.,  uninteresting.  Route  to 
(10'/2  M.)  Canosa,  see  p.  196.  The  surrounding  plain  is  richly 
cultivated,  but  entirely  destitute  of  trees ,  which  generally  form  an 

13* 


196     Route  16.  CANOSA.  From  Foggia 

important  feature  in  Italian  fields  and  enhance  the  beauty  of  the 
landscape.  Cotton-plantations  begin  here.  —  32' /2  M.  Trinitapoli 
Beyond  (35  M.)  Ofantino  the  train  crosses  the  Ofanto  (p.  194),  the 
last  river  of  the  E.  coast,  -with  banks  covered  -with  underwood, 
Between  two  ranges  of  hills  to  the  right  lies  the  broad  plain  on 
which  the  battle  of  Cannre  was  fought  (see  below). 

42^2  M.  Barletta  (Loeanda  di  Ettore  Fieramosca),  a  seaport- 
town  with  33,200  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated,  contains  a  number 
of  well-built  houses  and  churches.  The  market-place  is  adorned 
with  a  bronze  statue  14  ft.  in  height,  said  to  represent  the  Emp. 
Heraclius  (according  to  others  Theodosius),  and  to  have  been  found 
in  the  sea.  In  the  Piazza  d'Azeglio  is  a  monument  to  Massimo 
d'Azeglio  (d.  1866),  the  statesman,  erected  in  1880.  The  Cathedral 
of  S.  Maria  Maggiore  contains  the  tomb  of  a  Count  of  Barbi  and 
Miihlingen  (d.  1566),  with  a  German  inscription.  8.  Andrea  and 
S.  Trinita  possess  several  ancient  pictures.  The  extensive  Castello 
dates  from  the  time  of  Charles  VI. 

In  the  wars  between  Louis  XII.  and  Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  Barletta 
was  defended  in  1503  by  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova  and  besieged  by  the  Duke 
of  Nemours.  During  the  siege,  among  other  encounters,  a  combat  took 
place  in  the  vicinity  (between  Andria  and  Corato,  p.  197)  between  thirteen 
on  each  side  of  the  most  valiant  knights  of  Italy  and  France,  conducted  re- 
spectively by  Colonna,  and  Bayard  'sans  peur  et  sans  reproche1 ,  which 
terminated  in  favour  of  the  former. 

Canosa  (Albergo  Genghi,  bad),  with  16,500  inhab.,  on  the  slope  of 
a  hill,  lies  14  M.  inland  from  Barletta  and  about  as  far  from  Andria  (see 
below),  with  both  of  which  it  is  connected  by  high-roads.  Of  the  ancient 
Canusium,  once  a  prosperous  town,  a  gate  (Porta  Varrense,  on  the  road 
to  Cerignola) ,  ruins  of  an  extensive  amphitheatre,  and  other  relics  still 
exist.  Numerous  painted  vases,  golden  trinkets,  etc.,  have  been  discovered 
in  the  neighbourhood.  The  principal  church  of  S.  Sabino,  with  several 
small  domes,  contains  a  pulpit  and  episcopal  throne  in  marble  and  some 
antique  columns;  its  pavement  is  now  several  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
street.  In  an  adjacent  court  is  the  tomb  of  Boemund  (d.  1111),  son  of 
Rob.  Guiscard,  one  of  Tasso's  heroes.  Large  olive-plantations  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, which,  like  the  whole  of  Apulia,  also  yields  excellent  wine. 

About  midway  between  Barletta  and  Canosa,  and  a  little  to  theN.  of 
the  road,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Aufidus  (Ofanto),  once  lay  Cannae,  where 
the  Romans  were  signally  defeated  by  Hannibal,  B.  C.  216.  The  Roman  army, 
under  the  Consuls  Lucius  ^Emilius  Paullus  and  Caius  TerentiusVarro,  con- 
sisted of  80,000  foot  and  6O)0  horse,  that  of  Hannibal  numbered  40,000  foot 
and  10,000  horse.  After  various  changes  of  position  the  two  armies  engaged 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Aufidus,  the  right  wing  of  the  Romans  and  the 
left  wing  of  the  Carthaginians  leaning  on  the  river.  The  Gallic  and  Spanish 
legionaries  opened  the  battle  by  a  successful  attack  on  the  Carthaginian 
centre,  but  Hasdrubal,  at  the  head  of  the  Carthaginian  cavalry  on  the 
right  wing,  quickly  put  the  Roman  horse  to  flight,  and  then  attacked  the 
legions  in  the  rear.  Scarcely  a  single  Roman  foot-soldier  escaped,  70,000 
being  left  on  the  field,  including  jEmilius  Paullus  the  Consul,  and  10,000 
being  taken  prisoner.  Hannibal  lost  only  about  6000  men.  —  In  1019  an 
Apulian  and  Norman  army  under  Melo  of  Bari  was  defeated  at  Cannffi 
by  the  troops  of  the  Greek  prefect  Basilius  Bugianus.  In  1083  Cannse  was 
taken  and  destroyed  by  Robert  Guiscard. 

From  Barletta  to  Bari  via  Andria,  about  50  M.,  steam-tramway 
in  3y2  hrs.,  four  times  daily  in  each  direction.  —  7i/2  m.  Andria  {Lo- 
eanda di  Milone,  near  the  road  to  Trani,  tolerable),  with  37  000  inhab.. 
founded  about  1046,  once  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Emp.  Frederick  II., 


to  Brindisi.  TRANI.  16.  Route.    197 

whose  second  wife  Iolanthc  of  Jerusalem  died  here  in  1228,  after  having 
given  birth  to  a  son  (Conrad),  and  was  interred  in  the  interesting  old 
cathedral.  His  third  wife,  Isabella  of  England,  who  died  at  Foggia  in 
1241,  was  also  interred  in  the  cathedral  of  Andria,  but  the  monuments  of 
these  empresses  have  long  since  disappeared,  having  been  destroyed  by 
the  partizans  of  Anjou.  On  the  Porta  S.  Andrea,  or  delV  Imperatore,  is 
a  metrical  inscription  in  letters  of  metal,  attributed  to  Frederick :  Andria 
fidelis  no&tris  affixa  medullis,  etc.  The  old  church  of  S.  Agostino  and  the 
adjoining  convent  belonged  to  the  Teutonic  Order  during  the  sway  of  the 
Hohenstaufen.  —  To  the  S.  of  Andria,  on  the  summit  of  the  pyramidal 
Murgie  di  Minervino,  is  the  conspicuous  and  imposing  "Castello  del  Monte, 
erected  by  Frederick  II.,  who  frequently  resided  here,  for  the  purpose 
of  hawking  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  building  is  maintained  by  govern- 
ment. This  height  commands  a  fine  *View  of  the  sea,  the  valley  of  the 
Ofanto,  Mte.  Vulture,  etc.  A  bridle-path  (91/2  M.)  ascends  to  it  from  Andria. 
A  little  beyond  Andria,  in  a  field  by  the  road-side,  is  a  modern 
monument  called  VEpitafio,  marking  the  spot  where  the  above-mentioned 
encounter  between  Colonna  and  Bayard  took  place.  9>/2  M.  Corato,  with 
30,000  inhabitants.  14  M.  Ruvo  (Giov.  Nanni,  tolerable),  with  17,000  inhab., 
the  ancient  Rubi,  famous  for  the  numerous  and  beautiful  vases  found  in 
the  Apulian  tombs  in  its  environs ,  and  now  among  the  chief  treasures 
of  the  Museum  of  Naples.  The  tombs  have  since  been  covered  up  again. 
The  collection  of  Giov.  Jatta  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  —  17  M.  Terlizzi.  — 
26  M.  Bitonto,  with  26,000  inhab.  and  large  manufactures  of  salad-oil. 
The  interesting  cathedral  contains  several  tombs  of  the  17t!i  century.  — 
Near  (301/2  M.)  Modugno  the  tramway-line  crosses  the  railway  from  Bari 
to  Taranto  (p.  199).  —  37  M.  Bari,  see  p.  198. 

The  line  now  skirts  the  coast.  The  country  is  luxuriantly  fer- 
tile, and  is  chiefly  famous  for  large  olive-plantations  yielding  the 
finest  quality  of  salad-oil.  The  district  where  this  is  produced  now 
extends  from  Barletta  and  Canosa,  past  Bari,  to  the  neighbourhood  of 
Taranto  (p.  210).  The  yield  and  quality  of  the  olive  are  extremely 
fluctuating.  A  first-rate  crop,  though  very  rare,  sometimes  realises 
a  price  equal  to  the  value  of  the  whole  estate. 

501/2  M.  Trani  (Albergo  della  Stella  d' Italia;  Alb.  delle  Pu- 
glie;  Due  Mori),  with  26,000  inhab.,  is  a  well-built  seaport. 
The  loftily  situated  '^Cathedral,  built  about  1100,  still  possesses  a 
Romanesque  portal  and  beautiful  bronze  doors  by  Barisano  (1175). 
Interior  barbarously  modernised.  The  crypt,  which  extends  beneath 
the  entire  church,  deserves  a  visit.  Above  the  portal  of  the  church 
of  the  Ognissanti  is  a  Romanesque  relief  of  the  Annunciation.  The 
interesting  Castello  is  now  used  as  a  prison.  Several  synagogues 
afford  an  indication  of  the  former  prosperity  of  the  place  and  of  its 
importance  at  the  time  of  the  Crusades.  The  pretty  'Villa',  or  public 
gardens,  on  the  coast,  contains  two  well-preserved,  milestones  from 
the  Via  Trajana,  which  led  from  Benevento  to  Brindisi  via  Canosa, 
Ruvo,  Bari,  and  Egnatia.  Excellent  wine  (Moscado  di  Trani)  is  pro- 
duced in  the  neighbourhood. 

55(/2  M.  Bisceglie,  with  23,000  inhab.,  the  ruins  of  a  Norman 
fortress,  and  numerous  handsome  villas. 

61  M.  Molfetta  (30,000  inhab.),  beautifully  situated,  an  epis- 
copal see,  was  once  in  commercial  alliance  with  Amain.  After  the 
death  of  Johanna  I.  her  husband  Otho,  Duke  of  Brunswick,  was 
confined  in  the  castle  here  until  released  by  Charles  of  Durazzo  in 


198     Route  16.  BARI.  From  Foggia 

1384.  —  65  M.  Oiovinazzo,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Egnatia  (p.  200),  on  the  destruction  of  the  latter,  or  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  ancient  Netium  (Natiolum).  69!/2  M.  S.  Spirito 
and  Bitonto  (p.  197);  the  latter  lies  4  M.  to  the  W. 

77  M.  Bari.  —  Hotels.  Albergo  del  Risokgihento  (PI.  a;  C,  4), 
with  good  trattoria,  E.,  L.,  &  A.  21/->fr.,  bargaining  advisable;  Alb.  Cen- 
trale,  at  the  corner  of  the  Via  Piccinni  and  the  Via  Cavour  (PI.  D,  4); 
Hotel  Cavour,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  86 ;  Alb.  Piccinni,  Via  Piccinni  12. 

Cafes.  Risorgimento  and  Stoppani,  both  in  the  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele; 
Caffi  Piccinni.  —  Beer,  etc.,  at  Orsola  CafliscK's  and  the  Birreria  del  Bolog- 
nese,  both  in  the  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele. 

Cabs  into  the  town,  or  per  drive,  50  c,  after  dusk  70  c. ;  with  two 
horses  70  or  90  c. 

Tramway  to  Barletta,  from  the  N.W.  of  the  Giard.  Garibaldi,  see  p.  196. 

Steamboats.  Vessels  of  the  Societh  Florio,  for  Brindisi ,  the  Piraeus, 
Tremiti,  Ancona,  Venice,  and  Trieste.  Also  to  Genoa  and  Marseilles. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Emit  Berner,  Esq.  —  U.  S.  Consular  Agent, 
Joseph  Klein,  Esq. 

Bari,  the  ancient  Barium,  which  is  still,  as  in  the  time  of 
Horace,  well  supplied  with  fish  ('Bari  piscosi  mcenia'),  a  seaport, 
and  the  capital  of  a  province,  with  60,600  inhab.,  is  the  most 
important  commercial  town  in  Apulia.  It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
bishoprics  in  Italy ,  and  is  now  the  seat  of  an  archbishop.  In 
mediaeval  history  it  is  frequently  mentioned  as  the  scene  of  contests 
between  Saracens,  Greeks,  and  Normans,  etc.  In  1002  it  was  wrested 
from  the  Saracens  by  the  Venetians.  "William  the  Bad  destroyed 
the  town  in  1156,  but  "William  the  Good  restored  it  in  1169. 
Bari  was  an  independent  duchy  from  the  14th  cent,  down  to  1558, 
when  it  was  united  with  the  kingdom  of  Naples. 

The  Strada  Sparano  da  Bari  leads  to  the  N.  from  the  station  and 
crosses  the  Piazza  Ateneo,  in  which,  on  the  left,  stands  the  Ateneo 
(PL  C,  6),  containing  a  technical  school  and  the  Provincial  Museum. 
The  latter  consists  chiefly  of  vases  in  the  S.  Italian  style  (Director : 
Comm.  Michele  Mirenghi). 

The  Strada  Sparano  ends  in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuelb, 
which  runs  from  W.  to  E.  and  separates  the  closely  built  old  town 
from  the  new  town,  or  Borgo.  On  the  W.  the  Corso  ends  in  the 
grounds  of  the  Oiardino  Oaribaldi  (PI.  A,  4) ;  at  the  E.  end  is  the 
Oiardino  Margherita  (PL  D,  E,  4),  with  a  bust  of  Giuseppe  Masari 
(d.  1883),  parliamentary  deputy  and  author,  beyond  which  is  the 
Old  Harbour,  now  used  only  by  fishing-boats  and  other  small  craft. 

In  the  middle  the  Corso  expands  into  the  Piazza  dblla  Pre- 
fettura  (PLC, 4),  which  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Oiardino 
Piccinni,  with  a  statue  of  the  composer  Piccinni,  Gluck's  rival,  who 
was  born  at  Bari  in  1728,  on  the  S.  by  the  Teatro  Piccinni  (PL  15), 
the  Palazzo  di  Citta,  and  the  Tribunali  (the  last  two  forming  the 
wings  of  the  theatre),  and  on  the  N.  by  the  Prefecture  (PL  11). 
Passing  to  the  left  of  the  prefecture  we  reach  the  Castello  (now  a 
prison,  PL  B,  C,  3),  which  was  built  in  1169  and  afterwards  re- 
peatedly strengthened.      The  castello  lies  on  the  New  Harbour, 


1)11 


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Srala  nel  1:15.000 


WMM 


tfetn 

1.  Bimfo  tti  Xapoli,         C.5. 

Z.Sanco  Ifttzionale.-      C.5. 

3.  CUUedrale  C.3. 

"t  OuoFrohsiiui  B.4. 

,  hJntendatza.dilL'uuwza&At. 
.  %.ltceod7'iUo  B.2 

7.  Ospeda/eJfiZitare  B.4 

8.  Palazzo  di  CUta,        C.4. 
.  b.PaZazzodiGiusUzia.a. 

l&Piazze  corerte         .  D.4, 
UR.Prcfettura  C.-i 

\2,SJ)txmenico  C.4. 

ttSScaiUistica  D.2. 

1-kSciwle.Jormali        Cft 
lJ-TeatroPicci/im.       C.4 


rtinu  Y_Ajil  onia 


1T 


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Geogr.  Ansiaii  van 


Wa^URr  A  De ties. Leipzig 


to  Brindisi.  BARI.  ie.  Route.      199 

whence  a  fine  view  of  Mte.  Gargano  is  enjoyed  in  clear  weather. 
—  Farther  on  is  the  Cathedral  of  S.  Sabino  (PI.  3;  C,  3),  begun  in 
1027,  originally  a  fine  Byzantine  building,  sadly  modernised  in  1745. 
Over  the  altar  of  S.  Rocco  is  a  picture  by  Tintoretto,  and  opposite 
to  it  one  by  Paolo  Veronese.  Fine  crypt  (begun  in  1034),  with 
numerous  columns.  The  lofty  campanile  resembles  the  Moorish 
tower  of  Seville. 

Near  the  cathedral  is  the  church  of  *S.  Nicola  (PI.  D,  2,  3), 
begun  in  1087  for  the  reception  of  the  relics  of  the  saint,  which 
were  brought  from  Myra  in  Lycia.  The  crypt  was  consecrated  by 
Pope  Urban  II.  in  1089 ;  the  church  itself,  a  pillared  basilica  in 
an  antique  style,  with  numerous  later  additions,  was  finished  by 
the  Norman  king  Roger  in  1139.  On  the  exterior  are  tombstones 
erected  to  members  of  noble  families  of  Bari,  and  to  Byzantine  pil- 
grims who  died  here.  The  interesting  facade  is  embellished  with 
mediocre  statues  of  the  Virgin,  S.  Nicola,  and  S.  Antonio  di  Padova. 

The  Interior  consists  of  nave  and  aisles  with  flat  ceiling ,  borne  by 
doable  rows  of  columns,  with  galleries  over  the  aisles.  The  transverse 
arches  in  the  nave  did  not  form  part  of  the  original  structure.  In  the  N. 
aisle  is  the  Tombstone  of  Robert,  Count  of  Bari,  'protonotarius'  of  Charles 
of  Anjou,  who  conducted  the  proceedings  against  the  ill-fated  Prince  Con- 
radin,  and  was  afterwards  assassinated  by  a  nephew  of  Charles  of  Anjou 
on  the  very  spot  on  which  he  had  proclaimed  the  sentence  (p.  39).  He 
was  a  member  of  the  Chiurlia  family,  resident  at  Bari.  —  To  the  right 
of  the  high- altar  is  a  Madonna  with  saints,  by  BaHolommeo  Vivarini  of 
Murano,  1476.  —  At  the  back  of  the  choir  is  the  Tomb  (erected  in  1593) 
of  Bona  Sforza,  queen  of  Sigismund  I.  of  Poland  and  last  Duchess  of  Bari 
(d.  1558),  with  statues  of  St.  Casimir  and  Stanislaus. 

On  the  staircase  leading  to  the  Crypt  are  some  early-Christian  sar- 
cophagus-sculptures representing  Christ  and  the  Evangelists  (5th  cent.), 
which  were  perhaps  brought  from  Mysia.  —  The  crypt  itself  contains  a 
silver  altar  with  interesting  *  Alto-reliefs,  executed  in  1319  for  the  Servian 
king  Urosius  by  Ruggero  dalV  Invidia  and  Roberto  da  Barletta,  and 
restored  in  1684  by  Bom.  Marinelli  and  Ant.  Amtabili  of  Naples.  Below 
the  altar  is  the  vault  containing  the  bones  of  the  saint,  from  which  a 
miraculous  fluid  ('Manna  di  Bari'),  highly  prized  by  believers,  is  said 
to  exude.  The  festival  of  the  saint ,  on  8th  May ,  is  attended  by  thou- 
sands of  pilgrims,  chiefly  from  the  Albanese  villages. 

The  Treasury  contains  a  beautifully  illuminated  breviary  of  Charles  II. 
of  Anjou,  the  sceptre  of  the  same  monarch,  and  an  iron  crown,  which  is 
said  to  have  been  made  at  Bari  in  1131  for  the  Norman  Roger.  Roger 
himself,  Emp.  Henry  VI.  and  his  consort  Costanza,  Manfred,  and  Ferdinand  I. 
of  Aragon  were  all  crowned  with  it  in  this  church.  —  In  1271  Charles  of 
Anjou  presented  the  church  with  a  colossal  bell,  which  Manfred  had  in- 
tended for  Manfredonia,  but  tradition  reports  that  this  giant  was  melted 
down  and  made  into  Ave  smaller  bells  about  the  year  1394.  The  present 
bells  date  from  1578,  1713,  and  1830. 

The  Lion  in  the  Piazza  Mercantile  (PI.  D,  3),  with  the  inscription 
'custos  justitiae'  on  its  collar,  is  the  heraldic  cognisance  of  Bari. 

On  the  old  diligence-road  to  Taranto,  about  6  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Bari, 
is  the  village  of  Capurso,  visited  by  pilgrims  on  account  of  the  miraculous 
image  of  the  Madonna  del  Pozzo.  Thence  road  to  Noicattaro,  Rutigliano, 
and  Conversano  (see  p.  200). 

From  Bari  to  Taranto,  72  M.,  railway  in  4'/2  hrs.  (fares  13  fr.,  9  fr.  10, 
5  fr.  85  c).  The  line  leads  inland,  towards  the  W.,  and  gradually  ascends. 
7  M.  Modngno;  9Vi  M.  Bitetto.  On  a  hill  3  M.  to  the  N.  lies  Palo  del  Colle, 
once  surrounded  by  four  villages  (Auricarre,  Marescia,  Staglino,  Batlaglia), 


200     Route  16.  BRINDISI.  From  Foggia 

of  which  few  traces  are  left.  14  M.  Qrumo-Appula.  25'/z  M.  Acquaviva  delle 
Fonti;  about  3  M.  to  the  W.  is  situated  Cassano,  with  a  stalactite  grotto  (key 
at  the  Sindaco's);  fine  view  from  the  suppressed  Convento  dei  Riformati. 
34  M.  Oioia  del  Golle  (14,000  inhab.).  The  line  now  enters  the  Terra 
d"Otranto,  the  ancient  Calabria,  and  traverses  the  low  range  of  hills  which 
form  the  S.E.  spurs  of  the  Apennines.  The  scenery  becomes  of  bleak  char- 
acter, the  olive-trees  disappearing  and  the  fields  often  looking  as  if  sown 
with  fragments  of  limestone  rocks.  42  M.  S.  Basilio-Mottola ;  48  M.  Cat- 
tellaneta,  where  olives  reappear.  Beyond  the  next  tunnel  the  line  crosses 
three  deep  ravines  ('gravine').  53  M.  Palagianello ;  58  M.  Palagiano;  WfeN. 
Massafra,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  'gravina'.  The  train 
approaches  the  sea.    Fine  view  of  the  bay.  —  72  M.  Taranto,  see  p.  210. 

Si  M.  Noicattaro,  station  for  the  town  of  the  same  name,  lying 
3  M.  inland,  with  large  potteries.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  Rutigliano, 
dominated  by  the  square  tower  of  an  old  castle.  —  89  M.  Mola  di 
Bari  (13,000  inhab.),  on  the  coast.  On  the  hill  rising  inland,  but 
not  visible  from  the  railway,  lies  the  old  town  of  Conversano,  the 
ancient  Cupermnum  (700  ft.),  with  a  strong  castle,  which  belonged 
from  1456  to  theAcquavivas,  dukes  of  Atri  and  counts  of  Conversano. 

—  99  M.  Polignano  a  Mare  is  situated  on  a  lofty  and  precipitous 
rock  ,  rising  above  the  sea  and  containing  several  fine  grottoes. 
The  finest  of  these  lies  under  the  new  town  (entrance  by  a  small 
door  in  the  old  town ;  key  at  the  house  opposite).  — 102  M.  Monopoli, 
the  ancient  M inopolis,  with  12,000  inhab.,  the  residence  of  an  arch- 
bishop. The  cathedral  contains  a  St.  Sebastian  by  Palma  Vecchio. 
The  tower  of  S.  Francesco  commands  a  fine  view.  Near  the  sea,  on 
the  line  of  the  ancient  road  to  Egnatia,  there  have  been  discovered 
several  rock-hewn  tombs ,  the  contents  of  which  are  now  in  the 
museum  at  Bari  (p.  198).  —  On  the  coast  between  Monopoli  and 
Fasano  lies  the  ruined  town  ('la  citta  distrutta')  of  Egnatia,  the  Greek 
OnatMa,  now  Anazzo,  where  a  number  of  vases,  ornaments,  etc., 
have  been  found.  The  ancient  walls  have  been  nearly  all  removed 
by  the  peasants  to  build  their  cottages. 

HO^M.  Fasano  (Locanda  by  the  Municipio,  tolerable),  a  thriv- 
ing town  with  15,500  inhabitants.  The  old  palace  of  the  Knights 
of  St.  John,  with  its  handsome  loggie  (1509),  is  now  occupied  by 
the  Municipio.  Signora  Scarli  Colucci  possesses  a  collection  of  an- 
tiquities from  Egnatia ,  to  which ,  however,  persons  unprovided 
with  an  introduction  will  scarcely  obtain  access.   115  M.  Cisternino. 

The  train  now  enters  the  province  of  Lecce  or  Otranto  {Terra 
d'Otranto,  the  ancient  Calabria,  see  above).  123  M.  Ostuni  (Lo- 
canda Petruzzo-Anglana)  possesses  a  cathedral  with  a  line  Roman- 
esque facade ;  the  Biblioteca  Municipale  contains  a  collection  of 
antiquities.  —  129  M.  Carovigno ;  139  M.  S.   Vito  d'Otranto. 

146  M.  Brindisi.  —  Hotels.  Grand  Hotel  des  Indes  Okientales, 
built  by  the  S.  Italian  railway  company,  on  the  quay,  near  the  landing- 
place  of  the  P.  and  O.  steamers,    R.  3,    A.  1,    B.  l>/2,  D.  5,  lunch  3y2-4  fr. 

—  Albekgo  d'Europa,  in  the  Strada  Amena,  leading  from  the  station  to 
the  (y2  Jl.)  harbour,  R.  &  L.  2y2  fr. ,  A.  40  c. ;  Albekgo  Centrale,  Via 
Garibaldi,  near  the  harbour,  R.  &  L.  l'/2-3  fr. ;   the.se  two  tolerably  good. 

Cabs.     From  the  station  to  the  harbour,  1  pers.  60  c,   at  night  80  c, 


to  Brindisi.  BRINDISI.  16.  Route.     201 

2  pers.  1  fr.  or  1  fr.  20  c,  3  pers.  1  fr.  20  or  1  fr.  40  c,  4  pers.  1  fr.  50  or  1  fr. 

TO  c. ;  per  1/2  hr-  2  fr-  or  2  fr-  20  c->  Per  hr-  3  fr-  °r  3  fr.  20  c. ;  trunk  20  c. 

Post  Office,  in  the  Strada  Amena.  —  Telegraph  Office,  at  the  harbour. 

Steamboats  to  Corfu,    Syra,  and  the  Piraeus  (comp.  E.  43) ;  also  to  An- 

cona,  Venice,  Trieste,  Alexandria,  etc. 

British  Vice-Consul:  Sig.  S.  0.  Cocoto.  —  English  Church  Service 
in  winter. 

Brindisi,  with  17,000  inhab.,  the  ancient  Brentesion  of  the 
Greeks,  and  the  Brundisium  (i.e.  stag's  head)  of  the  Romans,  a 
name  due  to  the  form  of  the  harbour  which  encloses  the  town  in 
two  arms,  was  once  a  populous  seaport,  and  the  usual  point  of  em- 
barcation  for  Greece  and  the  East. 

Brundisium  was  a  very  famous  place  in  ancient  history.  At  an  early 
period  it  was  colonised  by  Tarentum,  and  subsequently  by  Rome,  B.C.  245, 
and  it  formed  the  termination  of  the  Via  Appia,  the  construction  of  which 
from  Capua  was  nearly  coeval  with  the  foundation  of  the  colony.  Horace's 
description  (Sat.  i.  5)  of  his  journey  from  Rome  to  Brundisium ,  B.  C.  37, 
in  the  company  of  Maecenas,  who  wished  to  be  present  at  the  con- 
clusion of  a  new  alliance  between  Octavianus  and  Antony  at  Tarentum, 
is  well  known.  At  Brundisium  the  tragic  poet  Pacuvius  was  born,  and 
here,  in  B.  C.  19,  Virgil  died  on  his  return  from  Greece  (some  ruins  near  the 
harbour  being  still  pointed  out  to  the  credulous  as  the  remains  of  the  house 
where  he  expired).  The  town,  when  occupied  by  Pompey,  B.C.  49,  sus- 
tained a  memorable  siege  at  the  hands  of  Caesar,  who  describes  the  event 
in  the  first  book  of  his  Civil  War.  The  fleets  of  the  Crusaders  frequently 
assembled  in  the  harbour  of  Brundisium ,  but  the  place  soon  declined 
after  the  cessation  of  the  crusades.  It  was  subsequently  destroyed  by 
Lewis ,  King  of  Hungary,  in  1348 ,  and  again  by  a  fearful  earthquake  in 
1458,  which  buried  most  of  the  inhabitants  beneath  its  ruins. 

In  modern  times  Brindisi  has  again  become  the  starting-point 
of  the  most  direct  route  from  Central  Europe  to  the  East,  and  bids 
fair  to  become  an  important  station  for  the  carrying  trade.  The  ex- 
tensive harbour,  admirably  sheltered  from  every  wind,  has  been  en- 
tirely restored.  The  large  steamers  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
Co.,  etc.,  are  enabled  to  enter  and  lie  at  the  quay  itself.  The  N. 
arm  of  the  harbour,  which  once  bounded  the  town  and  extended  far 
into  the  land,  was  productive  of  malaria,  owing  to  its  muddy  con- 
dition, and  is  now  dried  up.  The  entrance  to  the  harbour  is 
divided  into  two  channels  by  an  island.  In  order  to  prevent 
the  harbour  from  becoming  filled  with  sand,  the  N.  channel  has 
recently  been  closed  by  means  of  a  substantial  bulwark  of  solid 
stone.  The  quarantine  establishment  and  a  small  fort  are  situated 
on  the  island.  The  fort  may  be  visited  by  boat,  and  a  fine  view 
enjoyed  from  the  top,  and  the  trip  may  be  extended  to  the  break- 
water (in  all  I-II/2  hr.,  fare  I1/2  fr.). 

On  a  slight  eminence  by  the  quay  rises  a  lofty  unfluted 
column  of  Greek  marble,  with  a  highly  ornate  capital,  repre- 
senting figures  of  gods.  Near  it  are  the  remains  of  a  second. 
The  former  bears  an  unfinished  inscription,  containing  mention 
of  a  Byzantine  governor  named  Spathalupus,  by  whom  the  town 
was  rebuilt  in  the  10th  cent.,  after  its  destruction  by  the  Sara- 
cens. These  columns  are  supposed  once  to  have  marked  the 
termination  of  the  Via  Appia ;  but  more  probably  belonged  to  an 


202     Route  16.  LBOCE. 

honorary  monument  of  the  Byzantine  period ,  like  the  column  of 
Phocas  at  Rome.     The  other  relics  of  antiquity  are  insignificant. 

The  Castello  with  its  massive  round  towers  ,  founded  by  the 
Emp.  Frederick  II.,  and  strengthened  by  Charles  V.,  is  now  a 
bagno  for  criminals  condemned  to  the  galleys.  The  11th  cent, 
baptismal-church  of  S.  Giovanni,  with  frescoes,  is  now  an  anti- 
quarian museum.  In  the  Cathedral  the  nuptials  of  Frederick  II. 
with  Iolanthe  of  Jerusalem  were  solemnised  in  1225.  Several 
thousands  of  the  participators  in  the  Crusade  of  1227  perished 
here.  Brindisi  possesses  a  public  library,  presented  by  a  Bishop  de 
Leo,  a  native  of  the  place.     The  environs  are  fertile,  but  malarious. 

Railway  from  Brindisi  to  Taranto ,  Metaponto,  and  Naples, 
see  R.  18. 

From  Brindisi  the  train  runs  in  1  hr.  20  min.  ,  via  stations 
Tuturano,  S.  Pietro  Vernotico,  Squinzano,  and  Trepuzzi,  to  — 

170  M.  Lecce  {Albergo  della  Vittoria,  well  spoken  of;  Alb. 
della  Ferrovia ;  Roma;  Gran  Caffe,  Piazza  S.  Oronzo),  the  capital 
of  a  province  and  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  with  26,000  inhab.,  situated 
in  an  unattractive  district,  not  far  from  the  sea. 

The  church  of  S.  Croce,  with  its  fanciful  baroque  facade,  in  the 
Piazza  della Prefettura,  dates  from  the  end  of  the  16th  century.  The 
Prefettura,  an  old  Celestine  convent,  is  of  the  same  period;  it  con- 
tains a  collection  of  vases  (Attic  *Amphora  with  Polynices  and  Eri- 
phyle  ;  vase  with  Achilles  and  Brise'is),  terracottas,  coins,  and  in- 
scriptions. Passing  through  the  Prefettura  we  reach  the  Giardino 
Pubblico.  In  the  Piazza  a  bronze  statue  of  Victor  Emmanuel  II.,  by 
Maocagni,  was  erected  in  1889.  Near  the  Porta  diRugge  is  the  church 
of  S.  Domenico,  in  the  baroque  style  of  the  17th  cent. ;  opposite  is 
the  Hospital,  of  the  end  of  the  16th  century.  In  the  Piazza  del 
Vescovado  are  the  Cathedral  of  S.  Oronzo,  built  in  the  17th  cent., 
the  Seminary,  and  the  Vescovado.  Outside  the  Porta  di  Napoli  lies 
the  Campo  Santo,  with  the  church  of  SS.  Nicola  e  Cataldo,  built  by 
the  Norman  Count  Tancred  in  1180.  Of  the  facade  the  central  part 
alone,  with  the  beautiful  portal,  is  of  ancient  date.  The  corridor  to 
the  right  of  the  church  is  entered  by  an  interesting  *Side-portal. 

Lecce  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Lupia.  In  the  vicinity  lay  Ru- 
diae,  where  Ennius,  the  father  of  Roman  poetry,  was  horn,  B.C.  239  (d. 
at  Rome  168),  now  Rugge,  a  place  of  no  importance.  —  On  the  coast  lies 
the  Castello  di  S.  Caiialolo,  lljz  M.  to  the  W.,  a  favourite  point  for  excursions. 

About  il/i  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Lecce  lies  Covallino,  with  a  chateau  in  the 
rich  baroque  style  of  the  17th  cent.;  the  owner,  the  Duca  Sigismondo  Castro- 
mediano  de  Limburg,  admits  visitors  on  their  sending  their  cards. 

The  train  runs  from  Lecce  to  (29!/2  M.J  Otranto  in  about  2  hrs. 
Four  unimportant  stations.  —  179  M.  Zollino. 

Feom  Zollino  to  Gallipoli,  22  31.,  railway  in  l'/4  hr.  (fares  4  fr., 
2  fr.  80,  1  fr.  80  c).  —  .Stations:  Soleto,  Galatina,  Galaione,  Nardb-Oalatone 
(the  ancient  Neretum  of  the  Sallentini,  now  an  episcopal  residence),  S.Nicola, 
and  Alezio.  —  22  M.  Gallipoli  (British  vice-consul),  a  seaport,  with  11,000 
inhab.,  beautifully  situated  on  a  rocky  island  in  the  Gulf  of  Taranto,  but 
connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  bridge.     It  was   founded   by   the  Lace- 


OTRANTO.  17.  Route.    203 

demonian  Leucippus  and  the  Tarentines,  and  is  the  Urbs  Grata  Callipolis 
of  the  Roman  geographer  Mela,  hut  is  called  Anxa  by  Pliny.  The  cathedral 
is  a  handsome  building  of  the  17th  century.  The  town  was  formerly 
celebrated  for  its  oil ,  which  was  stored  for  long  periods  in  subterranean 
cisterns  ,  and  thence  drawn  off  for  exportation  in  a  thoroughly  clarified 
condition.     Date-palms  are  frequent  in  the  gardens  of  the  handsome  villas. 

—  A  steamer  of  the  Florio  Co.  plies  weekly  to  Brindisi  and  Taranto. 

184  M.  Corigliano  a" Otranto ;  187  M.  Maglie;  Bagnolo  del  Sa- 
lento ;  Cannole;  Giurdigna.no. 

19972  M.  Otranto,  the  Greek  Hydrus,  the  Roman  Hydruntum, 
a  colony  and  municipium ,  often  mentioned  by  the  ancients  as  a 
point  of  embarcation  for  Apollonia  in  Epirus,  was  destroyed  by  the 
Turks  in  1480,  and  never  recovered  from  the  effects  of  this  cruel 
blow.  It  is  now  an  insignificant  fishing  town  with  2000  inhab., 
and  the  seat  of  an  archbishop.  The  castle  with  its  two  towers  was 
erected  by  Alphonso  of  Aragon  and  strengthened  by  Charles  V.  — 
The  Cathedral  still  contains  some  columns  from  a  temple  of  Mer- 
cury, which  once  stood  near  the  village  of  S.  Nicola,  not  far  from 
the  town.  —  From  the  ramparts  of  the  Castle  the  coast  and  moun- 
tains of  Epirus  are  visible  in  clear  weather. 

A  road  skirting  the  coast  leads  from  Otranto  to  (31  31.)  the  Promon- 
tory of  Leuca,  via  Muro  (to  the  right),  and  Castro,  situated  on  a  rocky 
eminence  by  the  sea,  and  therefore  supposed  to  be  the  Castrum  Minervae, 
that  point  of  Italy  which,  according  to  Virgil,  was  first  beheld  by  ^Eneas  ; 
then  through  a  succession  of  gardens  and  vineyards  to  Tricase  (I1/2  M. 
from  the  sea),  Alessano,  Montesardo,  Patit,  and  finally  S.  Maria  di  Leuca, 
a  village  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Leuca,  not  far  from  the  promontory 
of  Leuca  or  Finisterra.  This  is  the  Promonlorium  Japygium,  or  Salentinum, 
of  antiquity ,  the  extreme  point  of  Apulia,  commanding  a  noble  prospect. 
In  fine  weather  the  lofty  Acroceraunian  mountains  of  Albania  may  be 
distinguished.  We  may  return  for  a  change  via,  Patii,  Presicce,  Uggento  (the 
ancient  Uxentum,  an  episcopal  residence),  and  Taviano,  to  Oallipoli  (31  31.). 

17.  From  Naples  to  Foggia  (Ancona). 

123  M.  Railway  in  &/2&I2  hrs.  (fares  22  fr.  40,  15  fr.  70,  10  fr.  10  c). 
This  line  forms  part  of  the  shortest  route  from  Naples  to  N.  and  E.  Italy 
and  to  Germany.  From  Naples  to  Bologna  19V2  hrs.  From  Foggia  to  An- 
cona (201  M.,  in  71/4-12  hrs. ;  fares  36  fr.  50,  25  fr.  55,  18  fr.  25  c),  see  p.  189. 

—  The  slow  trains  are  always  behind  time. 

Naples,  see  p.  19.  —  The  line  describes  a  wide  curve  through 
fields  planted  with  poplars ,  vines,  and  various  other  crops,  form- 
ing the  most  fertile  and  highly  cultivated  portion  of  the  Terra  di 
Lavoro  (p.  7).  An  occasional  glimpse  of  Vesuvius  is  obtained  to 
the  right.  —  6  M.  Casoria,  connected  with  Naples  by  a  steam-tram- 
way (p.  23).    8y2  M.  Frattamaggiore-Orumo ;  10  M.  S.  Antimo. 

12'/.2  M.  Aversa,  a  town  with  21,000  inhab.,  probably  occupies 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Atella,  where  the  Fabula  Atellana,  or 
early  Roman  comedy,  first  originated.  In  1029  it  was  the  first 
settlement  of  the  Normans ,  who  afterwards  became  so  powerful. 
The  large  church  of  S.  Paolo  contains  a  faithful  reproduction  of  the 
Holy  House  of  Loreto  (see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy).  On  18th  Sept. 
1345  King  Andreas  of  Hungary ,  husband  of  Queen  Johanna  I.   of 


204    Route  17.  BENEVENTO.  From  Naples 

Naples,  was  assassinated  by  Niccolo  Acciajuoli  in  the  palace  o 
Aversa.  The  light  and  rather  acid  wine  of  Aversa,  called  Asprino 
is  frequently  drunk  at  Naples.    Steam  Tramway  to  Naples,  see  p.  23 

18  M.  Marcianise.  —  28  M.  Caserta,  see  p.  9. 

The  line  now  gradually  ascends  ;  to  the  right  a  view  of  the  Cam 
panian  plain;  to  the  left,  the  mountains.  Two  tunnels.  —  26  M 
Maddaloni ;  the  town  lies  below  the  line. 

The  train  descends,  and  passes  under  the  *Ponti  della  Valle,  ar 
imposing  aqueduct  in  three  stories,  about  210  ft.  in  height.  I 
was  constructed  by  Vanvitelli  by  order  of  Charles  III.  and  his  son 
for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  gardens  of  Caserta  with  water  fron 
Monte  Taburno  (a  distance  of  25  M.).  The  towers  connected  witl 
it  are  seen  on  the  hill  to  the  left.  —  30  M.  Valle  di  Maddaloni 
—  At  (3372  M0  Frasso-Dugenta  we  cross  the  Isclero,  on  which, 
2^2  M.  above  Dugenta ,  lies  8.  Agata  de'  Goti,  on  the  site  of  th( 
ancient  Saticola.  The  defile  between  S.  Agata  and  Mojano  is  sup- 
posed by  some  to  be  the  Caudine  Forks,  as  the  locality  corresponds 
better  with  Livy's  description  than  the  pass  near  Arpaia  (p.  10). 

The  train  enters  the  broad  and  fertile  valley  of  the  Volturno, 
which  is  first  crossed  below,  then  above,  the  influx  of  the  Calore.  — 
Beyond  (38  M.)  Amorosi  the  train  follows  the  right  bank  of  the 
Calore.  Near  (4072  M.)  Telese-Cerreto  we  observe  on  the  right  th« 
Lago  di  Telese,  a  malarious  marsh  which  poisons  the  neighbourhood 
Telese,  a  poor  village  on  the  hills  to  the  left,  is  visited  in  summei 
for  its  mineral  springs,  and  possesses  a  large  new  establishment  foi 
visitors  (special  train  from  Naples  daily  in  July  and  August).  Neai 
it  are  a  few  relics  of  the  Samnite  Telesia,  once  occupied  by  Hanni- 
bal, but  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Romans.  It  was  afterwards  col- 
onised by  Augustus.  In  the  9th  cent,  the  town  suffered  severely 
from  an  earthquake,  and  it  was  at  length  entirely  destroyed  by  thi 
Saracens.  A  diligence  runs  hence  to  Piedimonte  d'Alife  (p.  10 
in  about  3  hrs. 

4372  M.  Solopaca;  the  small  town  (5000  inhab.)  is  pleasant!; 
situated  Ufa  M.  off,  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Taburno  (4095  ft.),  or 
the  left  bank  of  the  Calore.  —  4772*1.  S.  Lorenzo  Maggiore,  on  th< 
hill  to  the  left.  —  Another  tunnel.  —  51  M.  Casalduni- Ponte 
where  the  high-road  to  Benevento  crosses  the  Calore  by  an  iroi 
bridge.  The  valley  contracts;  to  the  right  on  the  hill  lies  Torre- 
cuso.  —  On  each  side  of  (5572  M.).  Vitulano  we  traverse  a  tunnel 

60  M.  Benevento.  —  The  Station  (Rail.  Restaurant,  fair)  lies  3A  " 
to  the  N.  of  the  town;  one-horse  cab  50  c,  two-horse  1  fr.,  after  dusl 
60  c.  or  1  fr.  30  c. ;  one-horse  cab  per  hour  70  c. 

Hotels.  Villa  di  Roma,  with  good  trattoria;  Albeego  Manfkedi 
Locanda  di  Benevento,  in  the  Largo  S.  Antonio,  small,  but  clean.  - 
Cafi   Garibaldi,   in   the  main  street;  etc. 

The   sights  of  the  town  may  be  visited  in  3  hrs.    or  less. 

Benevento,  a  town  with  21,700  inhab.,  situated  on  a  hill  bound 
ed  by  the  two  rivers  Sabato  and   Calore ,   was  formerly  the  capita 


to  Foggia.  BENEVENTO.  n.  Route.     205 

of  a  papal  province  of  the  same  name.  The  narrow  and  dirty  streets 
are  gradually  undergoing  improvement. 

Benevenlum,  founded  according  to  tradition  by  Diomedes,  or  by  the  son 
of  Ulysses  and  Circe,  was  originally  called  Maleventum,  but  the  name 
was  changed  when  it  became  a  Roman  colony,  B.C.  268.  It  lay  on  the  Via 
Appia,  and  became  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  S.  Italy.  In  the  6th 
cent,  after  Christ  Beneventum  became  the  seat  of  a  powerful  Lombard 
duchy.  In  the  11th  cent.  Emp.  Henry  III.  ceded  the  principality  of  Bene- 
vento  to  Pope  Leo  IX.,  after  which  it  belonged  to  Rome.  In  1241  the  town 
was  partly  destroyed  by  Frederick  II.  From  1806  to  1815  Benevento  was 
capital  of  the  short-lived  principality  of  that  name,  which  Napoleon  I. 
granted  to  Talleyrand. 

The  road  from  the  station  crosses  the  Calore  by  a  handsome  bridge. 

Near  this,  according  to  tradition,  was  the  temporary  grave  of  the 
young  King  Manfred,  who  on  26th  Feb.,  1266,  in  a  battle  with  Charles  I. 
of  Anjou  on  the  neighbouring  plains ,  had  lost  his  throne  and  his  life 
through  the  treachery  of  the  Barons  of  Apulia  and  the  Counts  of  Caserta 
and  Acerra.  Shortly  afterwards,  however,  the  body  of  the  ill-fated  prince 
was  exhumed  by  order  of  Bartolommeo  Pignatelli,  Archbishop  of  Cosenza, 
conveyed  beyond  the  limits  of  the  kingdom,  and  exposed  unburied  on  the 
bank  of  the  Rio  Verde.    Dante  records   this   in    his  Purgatorio  (iii.  134). 

Skirting  the  verge  of  the  town,  to  the  left,  we  reach  on  the  N. 
side,  *Trajan's  Triumphal  Arch,  or  the  Porta  Aurea,  dating  from 
A.  D.  114,  one  of  the  finest  and  best  preserved  Roman  structures 
in  S.  Italy.  It  was  dedicated  to  the  emperor  by  the  Roman  senate 
and  people,  in  recognition  of  his  having  completed  a  new  road  to 
Brundisium,  and  somewhat  resembles  the  arch  of  Titus  at  Rome. 
It  is  constructed  of  Greek  marble,  and  is  50  ft.  in  height,  the  passage 
being  27  ft.  high.  A  quadriga  with  a  statue  of  Trajan  once  crowned 
the  summit.  The  reliefs  relate  to  the  history  of  the  emperor. 

Outside.  Over  the  arch  are  two  rivers ,  the  Danube  and  Euphrates 
(or  Rhine).  The  frieze  represents  the  triumph  of  Trajan  over  the  Ger- 
manic tribes.  Above,  on  the  left,  assembly  of  the  gods ,  resolving  on  the 
adoption  of  Trajan  by  Nerva ;  on  the  right,  conquest  of  Dacia,  King  Dece- 
balus  at  the  emperor's  feet.  On  the  left  Trajan  triumphing  over  Dacia; 
on  the  right  the  marriage  of  Hadrian  and  Sabina;  1.  Armenia  constituted 
a  Roman  province ;  r.  an  Oriental  ambassador  in  Trajan's  presence.  — 
Passage:  I.Trajan  sacrificing  to  Jupiter;  r.  Trajan  bestowing  a  'congiarium' 
or  largess  on  the  people  after  his  triumph.  On  the  ceiling  Trajan  crowned 
by  Victory.  —  Inner  Side.  On  the  frieze  a  Dacian  triumph.  Reliefs : 
Trajan  sacrificing,  Procession  to  the  Capitol,  Adoption  of  Trajan,  Entry 
into  Rome,  Trajan  administering  justice,  Trajan  in  the  Basilica  Ulpia. 

Following  the  Town  Walls  (to  the  right  if  we  approach  from  the 
town),  which ,  as  well  as  the  town  itself,  contain  many  relics  of 
antiquity,  we  proceed  towards  the  S.  to  the  Castle,  erected  in  the 
14th  cent.,  now  partly  used  as  a  prison.  The  promenade  in  front  of 
it  commands  an  excellent  survey  of  the  valley  of  the  Sabato. 

From  this  point  we  follow  the  main  street  to  a  small  piazza 
with  a  modern  obelisk,  in  which  is  the  Church  of  Santa  Sofia,  a 
circular  edifice  of  the  Lombard  period,  erected  about  732-74.  It  is 
now  partly  modernised.  The  vaulting  of  the  dome  is  borne  by  six 
ancient  Corinthian  columns.  To  the  left  are  the  handsome  cloisters 
of  a  suppressed  Benedictine  monastery ,  with  curious  mediieval 
sculptures  on  the  capitals  of  the  columns. 


206     Route  17.  BOVINO. 

Farther  to  trie  left  is  the  Town-Hall.  To  the  right  is  the  Piazza 
Papiniano.  The  obelisk,  re-erected  here  in  1872,  is  a  memorial  of 
the  Egyptian  worship  of  Isis,  which  was  very  prevalent  here  towards 
the  end  of  the  pagan  period.  —  We  next  reach  the  piazza  in  front 
of  the  cathedral. 

The  *Cathedral  is  a  beautiful  edifice  in  the  Lombard-Saracenic 
style,  dating  from  the  12th  century.  The  campanile  is  later  (accord- 
ing to  an  inscription,  begun  in  1296) ;  in  the  wall  is  a  relief  in 
marble,  representing  a  wild  boar,  the  cognisance  of  Benevento.  The 
principal  door  of  the  cathedral  is  of  bronze,  adorned  with  basreliefs 
of  New  Testament  subjects.  It  is  said  to  have  been  executed  at  Con- 
stantinople in  1150.  The  interior  is  in  the  form  of  a  basilica,  with 
double  aisles  borne  by  ancient  columns.  Ambones  and  candelabra 
of  1311.    Valuable  treasury. 

To  the  left  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Episcopal  Palace,  a  pile  dat- 
ing from  various  periods.  Descending  to  the  right  of  the  church, 
we  pass  through  three  archways  (reached  also  from  the  piazza  in 
front  of  the  episcopal  palace),  and  taking  the  second  turning  on  the 
right,  reach  the  site  of  the  ancient  Theatre.  Several  of  the  entrance- 
arches  in  limestone  have  recently  been  excavated.  The  traveller  may 
now  continue  his  route  beyond  the  town  along  the  bank  of  the  Sabato, 
planted  with  poplars,  to  the  ancient  Ponte  Lebroso,  by  which  the 
Via  Appia  once  led  to  the  town.  It  is  now  the  site  of  a  mill.  This 
point  may  also  be  reached  by  following  the  main  street  beyond  the 
town,  and  then  descending  to  the  left.  We  return  to  the  hill,  on 
which  a  conspicuous  new  church  is  being  built ;  on  the  slope  lie  the 
ruins  ofSanti  Quaranta,  an  extensive  structure  of  brick  with  a  crypto- 
porticus  and  colonnades,  probably  part  of  a  bath-establishment. 

From  Benevento  to  Termoli,  see  p.  191. 

From  Benevento  to  Naples  vid  Avellino  and  Nola,  see  R.  11. 

The  RaujWay  crosses  the  Tammaro,  a  tributary  of  the  Calore, 
immediately  before  (64  M.)  Ponte  Valentino,  and  follows  the  un- 
interesting N.  bank  of  the  latter  stream,  through  its  narrow  valley, 
to  (67 Y2  M.)  Apice.  —  74  M.  Buonalbergo.  77  M.  Montecalvo; 
the  town  is  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  Four  tunnels  ,  one  of  which 
is  more  than  I1/2  M.  long.  We  then  cross  the  watershed  between 
the  Tyrrhenian  Sea  and  the  Adriatic.  84  M.  Ariano  di  Puglia;  the 
town  is  not  visible  from  the  line.  Then  a  long  tunnel,  beyond  which 
we  descend  the  Valle  diBovino,  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Cervaro. — 
90  M.  Savignano-Oreci,  two  villages  loftily  situated  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  valley.  —  95  M.  Montaguto-Panni.  Montaguto  lies  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Cervaro ;  Panni  lies  high  up  among  the  hills 
to  the  right.  We  follow  the  left  bank  of  the  Cervaro.  —  93»/2  M. 
Orsara  di  Puglia. 

102y2  M.  Bovino,  the  ancient  Vibinum,  lies  on  the  hill  to  the 
right.  At  Ponte  diBovino  the  train  crosses  the  Cervaro.  —  107  M. 
Oiardinetto  is   the   station   for   Troja ,    7  M.    to   the  N.  (diligence 


EBOLI.  18.  Route.     207 

IV2  fr._),  a  colony  founded  in  1017  by  the  Greek  prefect  Bugianus 
(p.  196);  to  the  11th  cent,  belongs  also  the  interesting  cathedral 
with  its  ancient  bronze  doors.  The  facade  (1093-1119)  is  richly 
adorned  with  sculpture  and  mosaic-work. 

From  (118  M.)  Cervaro  diverges  the  branch-line  to  Rapolla- 
Lavello  mentioned  at  p.  194.  We  finally  traverse  the  Tavoliere 
della  Puglia  (p.  193)  to  (123  M. )  Foggia  (p.  192). 

18.    From  Naples  to  Brindisi  via  Metaponto  and 
Taranto. 

240  31.  Railway  (express  to  Sletaponto)  in  10V2-17  hrs. ;  fares  43  fr. 
65,  30  fr.  55,  19  fr.  65  c. 

From  Naples  to  (45'/2  M.)  Battipaglia,  see  pp.  160-165. 

49^2  M.  Eboli  [Albergo  del  Pastore,  tolerable),  a  town  with 
9000  inhab.,  situated  on  the  hillside,  with  an  old  chateau  of  the 
Prince  of  Angri,  enjoys  a  line  view  of  the  sea,  the  oak-forest  of 
Persano,  the  towns  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Alburno,  as  far  as  the  temples 
of  Psestum.  The  sacristy  of  S.  Francesco  contains  a  large  Madonna 
by  Andrea  da  Salerno. 

The  railway  proceeds  towards  the  E.,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills. 
On  the  right  flows  the  broad  and  turbulent  Sele,  beyond  which  rises 
the  Monte  Alburno  (5710ft.),  the  Alburnus  of  the  ancients,  described 
by  Virgil  as  'green  with  holm-oaks'.  The  line,  which  is  here 
scaling  the  main  chain  of  the  Apennines  ,  passes  through  no  less 
than  thirty-six  tunnels  in  the  limestone  rock.  Scattered  groves  of 
oaks  and  olive-trees  are  seen  at  intervals.  54  M.  Persano;  6IV2M. 
Contursi ;  the  village  lies  at  some  distance  to  the  left.  The  train  now 
follows  for  a  short  time  the  course  of  the  Tanagro  or  Negro,  the 
Tanager  of  the  ancients.  —  65  M.  Sicignano. 

Fkom  Sicignano  to  Lagonegbo,  50  M.,  railway  in  31/2-4  hrs.  (now  being 
prolonged  to  Castrocucco,  p.  166).  —  The  line  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
Tanagro  towards  the  S.E.  5V2  M.  Galdo;7i/2M.  Pelina.  —  lO'/zM.  Auletta; 
on  the  hill  to  the  left  is  the  village  of  that  name  (3000  inhab.).  Many 
traces  still  exist  of  the  appalling  earthquake  of  Dec.  17th,  1857,  through 
the  effects  of  which,  direct  and  indirect  (exposure,  hunger,  etc.),  40,000 
people  perished  in  the  district  of  Sala  and  the  valley  of  Diano  alone.  — 
The  line  describes  a  wide  bend  to  the  right  and  crosses  the  ravine  of 
the  Lonlrano  by  a  lofty  viaduct,  beyond  which  it  again  approaches  the 
Tanagro.  To  the  left  lies  the  village  of  Pertosa,  which  was  partly  de- 
stroyed in  1857.  Below  the  village  is  a  large  cavern,  dedicated  to  St. 
Michael,  whence,  after  a  subterranean  course  of  l'/2  M.,  the  Tanagro  pre- 
cipitates itself  into  a  gorge.  Beyond  (17  M.)  Polla,  the  ancient  Forum 
Popilii,  we  enter  the  beautiful  and  fertile  Valle  di  Diano.  The  valley,  15  M. 
in  length,  is  traversed  by  the  Tanagro,  here  named  the  Galore,  and  contains 
numerous  villages.  —  21  M.  Atena,  the  ancient  Atina  in  Lueania,  with  remains 
of  an  amphitheatre,  walls,  and  towers.  '251/i  M.  Sala-Consilina,  the  seat  of 
a  sub-prefect,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  height.  — 28V2  M.,  Sassano-Teg- 
giano ,  the  ancient  Tegianum,  whence  the  valley  derives  its  name.  The 
river  is  here  crossed  by  the  Ponte  di  Silla,  an  ancient  Roman  bridge. 

31'/2  M.  Padula.  Above  the  village  is  the  Certosa  di  S.  Lorenzo,  a  fine 
Renaissance  edifice,  recently  restored  and  declared  a  national  monument. 
Three  well-preserved  colonnaded  courts,  a  large  external  staircase  of  some- 


208     Route  IS.  POTENZA.  From  Naples 

what  later  date,   the  refectory,    and  an   adjoining  room  with   a   tasteful 
pavement  of  majolica  slabs  are  interesting.  —  35  M.  Monlesano. 

[From  Sala,  Padula,  andMontesano  beautiful  routes  (formerly  not  un- 
attended with  danger  from  brigands)  lead  to  the  E.  to  the  picturesque 
Valley  of  Marsico,  which  is  watered  by  the  Agri.  The  chief  place  is  Marsico 
Nuovo,  a  town  with  12,000  inhab.  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley.  After 
a  ride  of  4-5  hrs.  the  traveller  reaches  Saponara,  situated  on  a  steep  hill, 
at  the  foot  of  which,  in  the  Agri  valley,  once  lay  the  ancient  Grumentum. 
The  ruins  are  insignificant,  but  a  rich  treasure  of  vases,  inscriptions,  and 
gems  has  been  found  among  them.] 

41  M.  Casalbuono.  —  50  M.  Lagonegro  (Albergo  Gaetano  Lettieri,  toler- 
able; one-horse  carr.  to  Lauria,  5  fr.),  a  small  town  with  4000  inhab.,  in 
a  wild  situation,  amidst  lofty  mountains,  is  at  present  the  terminus  of 
the  line.  The  French  gained  a  victory  over  the  Neapolitans  here  in  1806, 
after  which  they  committed  the  most  savage  excesses. 

Fkom  Lagonegko  to  Spezzano  (Metaponto,  Cosenza),  about  40  M., 
high-road,  traversed  by  a  'Vettura  Corriera'.  The  road  winds  through 
dark  and  profound  ravines,  passing  to  the  left  of  the  Lago  di  Serino,  the 
ancient  Lams  Niger,  in  which  the  Sinno,  the  Siris  of  the  ancients,  takes 
its  rise.  The  (6  M.)  village  of  Lauria  (Inn,  on  the  road,  dirty;  a  better 
one  in  the  village;  one-horse  carr.  to  Castelluccio,  5  fr.)  lies  at  the  base 
of  a  lofty  mountain,  opposite  the  huge  Monte  Sirino,  and  is  surrounded  by 
vineyards.  Then  Castelluccio,  on  an  eminence  above  a  branch  of  the  Lao, 
the  ancient  Laos.  The  road  leads  hence,  via  Mormanno  and  Moram,  the 
Muranum  of  the  ancients,  on  the  W.  slope  of  Monte  Pollino  (7325  ft.),  to  — 

30V2  M.  Castrovillari  {Leon  o?Oro,  E.  dirty,  cuisine  good),  a  town 
of  10,000  inhab.,  situated  on  two  brooks  which  unite  a  little  lower  down 
to  form  the  Coscile.  The  older  parts  of  the  town,  at  the  foot  of  the  ancient 
Norman  Castello,  are  largely  deserted  on  account  of  the  malaria. 

Beyond  Castrovillari  the  high-road  leads  through  the  well -cultivated 
valley  of  the  Coscile  via.  Carnmarata  to  (40  M.)  Spezzano-  Castrovillari,  where 
we  reach  the  railway  from  Sibari  to  Cosenza  mentioned  at  p.  219. 

Beyond  Sicignano  the  train  reaches  (70  M.)  Buccino ,  a  town 
■with  6500  inhab.,  situated  on  a  hill  to  the  left.  Beyond  (71  M.) 
Ponte  S.  Cono  it  enters  the  valley  of  the  Platano,  which  receives 
several  small  affluents  on  the  left.  At  (74^2  M.)  Romagnano  the 
country  becomes  bleak,  and  covered  with  broom.  79  M.  Balvano. 
83  M.  Bella-Muro,  the  station  for  the  village  of  Bella  and  the  town  of 
Muro  Lucano  (8000  inhab.),  both  of  which  lie  about  6  M.  to  the  N. 
Near  (91  M.)  Baragiano  the  train  crosses  the  Platano,  which  it  then 
quits.  —  92!/2  M.  Picerno,  with  6000  inhab.,  who  make  oil,  wine, 
and  silk.  In  the  vicinity  are  some  marble  quarries.  —  96  M.  Tito, 
at  the  top  of  the  pass,  with  an  extensive  view,  stretching  on  the 
S.  to  Monte  Pollino  (see  above),  snow-covered  even  in  June.  The 
village  (5000  iiihab.)  lies  to  the  right. 

103  M.  Potenza.  —  Alb.  &  Bist.  Lombaedo,  A.  defective,  omnibus 
to  the  station  I1/4  fr. ;  Ceooe  di  Savoia,  dirty.  —  "Cafe'  Pergola,  opposite 
the  Alb.  Lombardo;  kail.  Restaurant,  with  bedrooms,  well  spoken  of. 

Potenza,  with  20,300  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  the  same  name,  which  forms  part  of  the  old  Basilicata,  a  district 
nearly  corresponding  with  the  ancient  Lueania.  The  town,  which 
was  almost  totally  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1857,  lies  on 
an  eminence  above  the  Basento ,  which  rises  on  the  mountain 
Ai-iona  not  far  from  this,  and  falls  into  the  Gulf  of  Taranto  near 
the  ruins  of  Metapontum.  Fine  view  from  the  piazza  in  front  of 
the  Cappella  di  S.  Oerardo.  —  The  ancient  Potentia,    destroyed  by 


to  Toronto.  METAPONTO.  18.  Route.      209 

Emp.  Frederick  II.  and  again  by  Charles  of  Anjou,  lay  lower  down  in 
the  plain ,  at  the  spot  now  called  La  Murata,  where  coins  and  in- 
scriptions have  frequently  been  found.  Remains  of  various  ancient 
towns  have  been  discovered  near  Potenza.  Sig.  Lacava,  director  of 
the  Banco  di  Napoli,  is  well  acquainted  with  the  environs,  and 
exceedingly  courteous  in  imparting  his  information. 

From  Potenza  to  Acerenza,  an  interesting  excursion :  diligence  to 
Pietragalla  (in  4  hrs.,  fare  2  fr.),  and  a  walk  of  2-3  hrs.  thence.  Acerenza 
(Locanda  in  the  old  castle),  the  Acherontia  of  Horace  (comp.  p.  195), 
famed  for  its  wine,  occupies  a  lofty  and  beautiful  situation.  The  crypt 
of  the  cathedral  contains  four  ancient  columns  of  coloured  marble  and 
pedestals  with  mediaeval  reliefs. 

Fkosi  Potenza  to  Melfi  (p.  194;  about  37  M.  •  hilly  road)  a  diligence 
runs  in  9-10  hrs.  (fare  6  fr.),  via  Avigliano  and  Atella.  Railway  under  con- 
struction. 

The  train  now  follows  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Basento, 
passing  through  numerous  tunnels.  The  stations  are  generally  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  towns  and  villages,  with  which  there 
is  often  no  regular  communication.  107  M.  Vaglio ;  the  village  lies 
to  the  left  of  the  railway.  11372  M.  Brindisi-Montagna ;  117  M.  Tri- 
vigno.  118  M.  Albano  ;  the  town  of  Albano  di  Lucania  is  situated 
on  a  hill  to  the  N.  The  train  now  crosses  the  Camastra,  the  chief 
affluent  of  the  Basento ;  fine  mountains  to  the  right.  122  M.  Cam- 
pomaggiore-Pietrapertosa ;  to  the  left,  romantic  mountain  scenery. 
129^2  M-  Calciano,  the  station  for  Tricarico,  a  town  to  the  N.,  the 
seat  of  a  bishop,  with  6000  inhabitants.  132  M.  Grassano-Garaguso 
(small  restaurant)  ;  13772  M.  Salandra-Grottole.  Grassano  and  Grot- 
tole  lie  considerably  to  the  N. ,  Garaguso  and  Salandra  to  the  S.  of  the 
railway.  Salandra,  with  its  oastle,  is  situated  on  the  Salandrella,  an 
affluent  of  the  Cavone,  which  flows  into  the  Gulf  of  Taranto.  — 
145^2  M.  Ferrandina,  15372  M.  Pisticci ;  the  two  small  towns  are  at 
some  distance  to  the  S.  Farther  on  the  train  crosses  the  Basento, 
which  descends  in  windings  to  the  sea.  161  ^2  M-  Bemalda,  a  town 
of  7000  inhab.,  with  extensive  fields  of  saffron  and  cotton. 

169  M.  Metaponto  (Rail.  Restaurant,  tolerable,  also  bedrooms), 
near  the  old  castle  of  Torremare,  is  a  solitary  station  the  name  of 
which  recalls  the  celebrated  ancient  Greek  city  of  Metapontum. 
Pythagoras  died  here,B.  C.  497,  in  his  90th year,  but  his  philosophy 
long  survived  him  in  the  towns  of  Magna  Gracia,  especially  at 
Metapontum  itself,  Tarentum ,  and  Croton.  When  Alexander  of 
Epirus  came  to  Italy  in  B.  C.  332,  Metapontum  allied  itself  with 
him,  and  in  the  Second  Punic  "War  it  took  the  part  of  Hannibal. 
Its  enmity  to  Rome  on  the  latter  occasion,  however,  caused  its  down- 
fall, and  at  the  time  of  Pausanias,  in  the  2nd  cent,  after  Christ,  it 
was  a  mere  heap  of  ruin-.  About  1  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  station 
lie  the  ruins  of  a  Doric  Temple,  dedicated  to  Apollo  Lyceus,  and 
called  by  the  peasants  Chiesa  di  Sansone;  the  columns  are  encased 
in  stucco.  —  About  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  (horse  2-272  ft-)  is  another 
ancient  Greek*Temple  in  the  Doric  style,  called  Le  TavolePaladine 
Baedeker.    Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  14 


210     Route  18.  TARANTO.  From  Naples 

by  the  peasants,  who  believe  each  pillar  to  have  been  the  seat  of 
a  Saracen  chieftain.  Fifteen  columns  of  the  peristyle  (ten  on  the 
N.,  five  on  the  S.  side)  ate  still  standing.  The  limestone  of  which 
they  consist  is  now  much  disintegrated.  —  We  may  now  return  by  the 
right  bank  of  the  Bradano.  The  neighbouring  farm-houses  (massarie), 
such  as  the  Massaria  Sansone,  are  built  of  massive  blocks  from  the 
ancient  walls  of  the  town.  On  the  coast  are  traces  of  a  harbour  now 
filled  with  sand.  To  the  S.W.  are  rows  of  tombs  which  afford  an  idea 
of  the  great  extent  of  the  town. 

The  proceeds  of  the  latest  excavations  are  temporarily  exhibited  in 
the  red  house  behind  the  railway-station  (adra.  on  previous  application 
to  the  Guardia  di  Antichita  at  Bernalda,  p.  209).  They  include  a  dedicatory 
inscription  to  Apollo  Lyceus,  which  revealed  the  purpose  of  the  temple;  a 
fragment  of  a  metope,  some  polychrome  terracotta  mouldings,  and  archi- 
tectural fragments  from  the  same  temple;  a  boar,  in  the  archaic  style, 
carved  in  sheet-bronze,  etc. 

From  Metaponto  to  Reggio,  see  R.  19. 

The  railway  from  Metaponto  to  Taranto  traverses  a  flat  and 
monotonous  district  on  the  coast.  The  once  fertile  country  is  now 
very  inefficiently  cultivated  (comp.  p.  214).  The  train  crosses  several 
flumare  (p.  214).  —  1751/2  M.  Ginosa;  186  M.  Chiatona. 

196  M.  TArantO.  —  Hotels.  Albergo  Europa,  Borgo  Nuovo,  in  » 
pretty  situation  on  the  Mave  Piccolo  commanding  good  views,  R.  272-5, 
L.  i/2>  A.  i/zfr.,  well  spoken  of;  Ale.  Garibaldi,  at  the  gate,  '/iK.  from 
the  station,  with  view  towards  the  Mare  Piccolo,  R.  from  1  fr.  20  c,  dirty; 
Albekgo  di  Roma,  not  very  good. 

Trattorie  and  Cafes.  "Aquila  <TOro,  near  the  Alb.  Europa,  charmingly 
situated  on  the  coast;  Caffi  DuiMo,  Strada  Maggiore;  several  Cafis  in  the 
Ringhiera,  often  crowded  on  Saturdays. 

Baths  beside  the  Albergo  Europa. 

Cab  from  the  station  to  the  town,  1/2  M.,  60  c.  —  Two  omnibus-lines 
ply  in  the  town:  1st  cl.  15,  2nd  cl.  10  c. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Signor  O.  Alberti. 

Taranto,  a  town  with  about  40,000  inhab.,  is  situated  in  the  N. 
angle  of  the  Gulf  of  Taranto ,  on  a  rock  which  divides  the  deep 
inlet  here  into  the  Mare  Piccolo  and  Mare  Grande  and  which  is 
made  an  island  by  the  canal  at  Porta  di  Lecce.  The  Mare  Grande 
is  bounded  by  the  Capo  S.  Vito  on  the  S.E.  The  ebb  and  flow  of 
the  tide  is  distinctly  visible  under  the  bridges  which  connect  the 
island  with  the  mainland,  one  of  the  few  places  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean where  it  is  perceptible.  The  harbour  is  Tjrotected  by  two 
flat  islands  situated  in  front  of  it,  the  Choerades  of  antiquity,  now 
<S.  Paolo  (the  smaller),  occupied  by  a  fort,  and  <S.  Pietro.  The 
entrance  to  the  harbour  is  between  S.  Vito  and  S.  Paolo,  on  each 
of  which  a  lighthouse  is  situated.  Towards  the  N.W.  the  passage 
is  navigable  for  small  boats  only. 

Tarentum,  or  Taras,  as  it  was  called  in  Greek,  founded  to  the  W.  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Galaesus  by  Spartan  Parthenians  under  the  guidance  of 
Phalanthus,  B.  C.  707,  gradually  extended  its  sway  over  the  territory  of 
the  Iapygic,  which  was  peculiarly  suited  for  agriculture  and  sheep-farm- 
ing. (The  sheep  of  this  district  wore  coverings  to  protect  their  lleeces; 
comp.  JJorace,  Carm.  II.  6,  'ovibus  pellitis  Galesi'.)  Excellent  purple- 
mussels  were  also   found   here,    so   that    the   twin   industries    of  weaving 


Ccuitiere  Qtteirolo 

T  A  1A  1ST  T  ' 


toTaranto.  TARANTO.  IS.  Route.    2\\ 

tt^^VS^^^^^^Vfo  *  ha.e  fu, 
its   extensive   commerce    and    fisheries,  its    ao-rieultar?^1'8   Stro,ng  fleet> 
Tarentum  became  the  most  opulent  and   powerful  citv   n?w  ln    t,cturii!' 
The  coins  of  the  ancient   Tarentum    are    remarkable    fo  tS  tl^l*' 
In  the   4th   cent.   B.    C.    the   city  attained   the   zenith   of  its   pro*™?"*7" 
under   the   guidance    of  Archytas,    the  mathematician ;   but   at  the    s 
time    its    inhabitants    had    become    notorious    for    their   wantonness  ""in 
the  war   against   the  Lucanians  Tarentum    summoned   to    its    aid    foreign 
princes  from   Sparta  and  Epirus,   and  in   its  struggle  with  Rome  it  was 
aided  by  Pyrrhus  (281),  whose  general  Milo,  however,   betrayed   the  city 
into  the  hands  of  the   enemy.     In   the   Second   Punic   War  the   town   es- 
poused the  cause  of  Hannibal,  but  was  conquered  in   209  by  the  Romans 
who  plundered  it,  carried  off  its  treasures  of  art,   and  sold   30,000   of  the 
citizens  as  slaves.    In  the  time  of  Augustus  Tarentum,   like   Naples   and 
Reggio,  was  still  essentially  a  Greek   town,   and  its   trade   and   industry 
were  still  flourishing  ('ille  terrarum  mihi  praeter  omnes  angulus  ridet',  Hor. 
Carm.  II.  6).    Subsequently  it  became  quite  Romanized.     After  the  reign 
of  Justinian  the  town,  with  the  rest  of  S.  Italy,  belonged  to  the  Byzant- 
ine empire.    In  927  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by  the  Saracens,  but  in  967 
it  was  rebuilt  by  Nicephorus  Phocas,  in  consequence  of  which  Greek  once 
more  became  the   common   dialect.     In   1063   Robert   Ouiscard  took   the 
town  and  bestowed  it  on  his  son  Boemund.    At  a  later  period  Frederick 
II.  of  Hohenstaufen  built  the  castle  of  Rocca  Imperiale.     Philip,   son   of 
Charles  II.  of  Anjou,  was  made  prince  of  Taranto  in  1301. 

The  modern  town,  occupying  the  site  of  the  Acropolis  of  the 
ancient  city,  which  extended  far  towards  the  S.  E.,  is  the  seat  of 
an  archbishop ,  a  sub-prefect ,  and  other  dignitaries ,  and  carries 
on  a  considerable  traffic  in  oil,  oats,  and  wheat. 

The  population  is  densely  packed  in  confined  houses  and  nar- 
row streets.  The  town  is  intersected  lengthwise  by  three  streets. 
The  Mare  Piccolo  is  skirted  by  the  Strada  Garibaldi,  inhabited 
chiefly  by  fishermen,  whose  language  is  still  strongly  tinctured 
with  Greek  and  is  often  unintelligible  to  the  other  Tarentines. 
This  street  is  connected  by  a  number  of  lanes  with  the  narrow 
Strada  Maggiore,  or  main  street,  the  chief  business  thoroughfare, 
which  intersects  the  town  from  N.W.  to  S.E.  The  Strada  Yittorio 
Emanuele,  skirting  the  coast,  affords  a  view  of  the  bay  and  the 
mountains  of  Calabria,   and  forms  a  pleasant  evening  promenade. 

The  now  entirely  modernised  Cathedral  of  S.  Cataldo  was 
founded  in  the  11th  century.  It  contains  a  few  Byzantine  capitals. 
The  chapel  of  the  saint  (an  Irishman),  adjoining  the  choir  on  the 
right,  is  sumptuously  decorated.  The  crypt  is  closed.  The  tower 
commands  a  fine  view  (best  in  the  evening).  —  The  Castle,  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  town,  and  the  other  fortifications  date  from  the  time 
of  Ferdinand  of  Aragon  and  Philip  II.  of  Spain. 

The  relics  of  the  ancient  city  are  scanty.  The  most  important 
is  a  Doric  Temple,  discovered  by  Prof.  Viola,  of  which  two  in- 
complete columns  may  be  seen  in  the  court  of  the  Gongregadella 
Pieta  (Strada  Maggiore),  and  some  fragments  of  the  stylobate  m  the 
cellar^  To  judge  from  he  heavy  proportions  of  the  columns  and  the 
narrow  intercolumniation,  this  is  one  of  the  oldest  extant  examples 
of  the  Doric  style.  -  Over  the  bridge  connecting  the  town  with  the 

14* 


212    Route  18.  TARANTO. 

mainland  to  the  N.  of  the  Porta  di  Napoli  runs  a  Roman  aqueduct, 
9^2  M.  long,  known  as  II  Triglio. 

The  S.E.  gate  of  the  town  is  named  the  Porta  di  Lecce.  The 
canal  which  here  unites  the  Mare  Piccolo  with  the  Gulf  of  Taranto 
is  295  ft.  wide,  and  admits  war-ships  of  the  largest  size.  It  is 
crossed  by  an  iron  swing-bridge. 

On  the  mainland  towards  the  S.E.,  where  the  Tarentum  of  an- 
tiquity was  situated ,  a  new  quarter ,  the  Borgo  Nuovo ,  is  now 
springing  up.  A  Museum  (Director,  Prof.  Luigi  Viola)  has  recently 
been  fitted  up  in  the  former  convent  of  S.  Pasquale,  in  the  market- 
place, in  which  are  collected  the  antiquities  unearthed  in  the  course 
of  building  operations  and  excavations  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Among  the  contents  is  pottery,  some  of  rude  workmanship  and  some 
ornamented  with  geometric  designs,  dating  from  the  pre-Grecian  inhabi- 
tants. The  Corinthian  vases  and  their  imitations  date  from  the  Doric 
colonists.  —  The  development  of  the  Hellenistic  plastic  art  from  the 
severe  style  of  the  6th  cent.  B.C.  to  the  more  florid  taste  of  the  3rd  cent. 
B.C.  is  illustrated  in  numerous  votive-statues  and  reliefs.  —  Among  the 
more  noteworthy  objects  are  a  few  jewels,  glass  and  ivory  articles,  two 
fine  marble  *Heads:  Persephone  'or  Aphrodite,  from  the  end  of  the  5th 
cent.,  and  Hercules,  from  the  3rd  cent.  B.C.;  and  Reliefs  of  marine  and 
land  fights  between  Greeks  and  barbarians,  from  the  Alexandrian  period. 

Near  the  hospital  are  the  remains  of  the  Amphitheatre,  with 
cellars.  Beside  the  road  to  8.  Lucia,  near  the  sea,  are  large  heaps 
of  the  purple-yielding  mussel  shells,  dating  from  antiquity.  In 
this  neighbourhood  is  the  Villa  Beaumont-Bonelli  (gardener  Y2  fr.), 
with  a  good  view,  and  farther  on,  3/4  M.  from  Taranto,  stands  the 
Villa  Pepe,  once  the  property  of  the  celebrated  Archbishop  Capece- 
latro  (d.  1816),  who  placed  on  it  the  inscription  —  'Si  rursus  heio 
peccasset  Adam,  forsitan  Deus  ignosceret',  and  afterwards  that  of 
General  Pepe.  Although  in  a  dilapidated  condition,  it  still  merits 
a  visit,  and  is  thus  described  by  an  old  writer:  — 

'This  is  one  of  the  most  charming  spots  in  the  neighbourhood.  The 
Mare  Piccolo  looks  like  a  broad  lake.  Gentle  slopes,  covered  with  olive- 
groves,  rise  in  every  direction.  A  fine  view  of  Taranto  and  its  towers, 
perched  on  a  rock,  is  enjoyed  hence,  and  still  higher  rise  two  magnificent 
palm-trees,  the  finest  of  which  stands  in  the  courtyard  of  the  archiepiscopal 
residence.  Gardens  with  oranges,  lemons,  figs,  almonds,  and  pomegranates 
slope  down  from  the  town  to  the  water's  edge,  filling  the  air  with  their 
delicious  fragrance'. 

From  this  point  we  obtain  a  survey  of  the  extensive  naval 
buildings,  including  the  Arsenal,  with  docks  218  yds.  long  and 
40  yds.  broad,  and  the  Mare  Piccolo.  The  last  is  divided  into  two 
halves  by  the  promontory  II  Pizzone,  and  the  Punta  della  Penna. 
Excellent  fish  abound  in  this  bay.  They  enter  with  the  tide  under 
the  S.  bridge,  and  are  netted  at  night  in  great  numbers.  There 
are  no  fewer  than  93  different  species,  and  they  are  largely  ex- 
ported in  every  direction.  Shell -fish  are  also  bred  here  in  vast 
numbers  (oysters  and  others  called  cozze ,  the  best  being  the  coc- 
cioli).  The  situation  of  the  beds  is  indicated  by  stakes  protrud- 
ing from  the  water.    The  traveller  may  visit  them  by  boat  (1 V2  **• 


POLICORO.  19.  Route.     213 

per  hr.),  and  enjoy  his  oysters  fresh  from  trie  sea  (about  50  o.  per 
doz.  is  sufficient  recompense ;  bread  should  be  brought). 

The  climate  of  Taranto  is  somewhat  cold  in  winter,  and  not 
unbearably  hot  in  summer.  The  honey  and  fruit  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  in  high  repute,  as  they  were  in  ancient  times.  The 
date-palm  also  bears  fruit  here,  but  it  seldom  ripens  thoroughly. 

In  the  district  between  Taranto,  Brindisi,  and  Otranto  the  venomous 
tarantola,  op  tarantella-spider  occurs.  Its  bite  is  said  by  the  natives  to 
cause  convulsions  and  even  madness,  for  which  evils  music  and  dancing 
are  supposed  to  be  effectual  remedies.  The  latter  belief  gave  rise  to  the 
curious  tarantella-dancing  mania,  which  was  epidemic  in  S.  Italy  in  the 
15-17th  centuries. 

From  Taranto  to  Bari,  see  p.  199. 

The  railway  describes  a  curve  round  the  Mare  Piccolo,  and  then 
turns  to  the  E.  —  2041/2  M.  Monteiasi-Montemesola ;  208  M.  Orot- 
taglio;  217  M.  Francavilla-Fontana.  —  221M.  Oria,  the  ancient  Uria, 
from  which  the  Dona  family  is  said  to  derive  its  origin,  a  beautifully 
situated  place  with  numerous  palaces  and  a  small  museum  (in  the. 
Biblioteca  Municipale).    226^2  M.   Latiano;  231  M.  Mesagne. 

240  M.  Brindisi,  see  p.  200. 

19.  From  (Naples)  Metaponto  to  Reggio. 

267  M.  Railway  in  10i/4-17'/s  hrs.  (fares  48  fr.  60,  34  fr.  5,  21  fr.  90  c). 
—  Fkom  Naples  to  Reggio,  436  M.,  railway  in  21-27  hrs.  (fares  79  fr.  45, 
55  fr.  6"),  35  fr.  75  c).  —  Through-tickets  to  Messina,  Catania,  and  other 
places  in  Sicily  include  transport  from  the  railway-station  to  the  quay  at 
Reggio  and  the  steamer-fare  to  Messina.  —  The  traveller  should  supply 
himself  with  refreshments  for  this  journey,  as  the  railway-restaurants  are 
poor  and  few  in  number. 

Metaponto,  see  p.  209.  —  The  railway  crosses  the  Basento  and 
skirts  the  Gulf  of  Tarentum.  The  soil  is  very  fertile,  but  miserably 
cultivated.  Although  quite  capable  of  yielding  two  crops  annually 
with  proper  management,  it  is  allowed,  in  accordance  with  the  old- 
fashioned  system  prevalent  here ,  to  lie  fallow  for  two  years  after 
each  crop.  In  the  marshy  districts  near  Metaponto  and  at  other  parts 
of  the  line  the  railway  company  has  surrounded  the  stations  and 
many  of  the  pointsmen's  and  signalmen's  huts  with  plantations  of 
the  Eucalyptus  Globulus ,  which  have  already  proved  extremely 
beneficial  in  counteracting  the  malarious  influences  of  the  district. 
The  train  crosses  several  fiumare  (p.  228),  which  were  confined 
within  embankments  on  the  construction  of  the  railway.  The  nu- 
merous watch-towers  are  a  memento  of  the  unsafe  condition  of  the 
coast  during  the  middle  ages,  which  is  also  the  reason  of  the  distance 
of  the  settlements  from  the  sea. 

5  M.  (from  Metaponto )  8.  Basilio  Pisticci ,  beyond  which  the 
train  crosses  the  Cavone.  10  M.  Scanzano  Montalbano.  We  next 
cross  the  Agri,  the  ancient  Aciris.  13'/2  M.  Policoro,  near  which  lay 
the  Greek  town  of  Heraclea  (founded  by  the  Tarentines  in  432), 
where  Pyrrhus  with  the  aid  of  his  elephants  gained  his  first  victory 


214     Route  19.  SIBARI.  From  Metaponto 

over  the  Romans,  B.C.  280.  At  Luce,  in  the  vicinity,  the  celebrated 
bronze  Tabula  Heracleensis  (Lex  Julia  Municipalis) ,  now  in  the 
Museum  at  Naples  (p.  60),  was  discovered  in  1753. 

The  train  traverses  a  wood  (Panlano  di  Policoro),  full  of  the 
most  luxuriant  vegetation  (myrtles ,  oleanders  ,  etc.)  ,  and  near 
(20  M.)  Nova  Siri  crosses  the  river  Sinno,  the  ancient  Siris.  The 
line  now  approaches  the  sea. 

22Y2  M.  Eocca  Imperiale.  The  country  becomes  hilly.  26  M. 
Monte  Giordano;  31  M.  Eoseto.  To  the  left,  on  the  coast,  is  a 
curious  ruin.  —  The  finest  part  of  the  line  is  between  Roseto  and 
Rossano.  It  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  precipitous  Monte 
Pollino  (7850  ft.)  never  free  from  snow  except  in  summer,  and  of 
tbe  broad  valley  of  the  Crati,  at  the  head  of  which  rise  the  pine- 
clad  Sila  mountains  (p.  220).  —  34  M.  Amendolara;  401/.2  M.  Tre- 
bisacce  (a  good  echo  at  the  station);  47  M.  Torre  Cerchiara. 

50  M.  Sibari  {Rail.  Restaurant,  tolerable),  formerly  Buffaloria, 
whence  the  line  mentioned  at  p.  218  diverges  to  Cosenza,  derives 
its  name  from  tbe  ancient  Sybaris  (see  below).   Malarious  district. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Crati,  on  which  the  wealthy  and  lux- 
urious Sybaris,  founded  B.C.  720  by  Achaeans  and  Trcezenians,  and 
destroyed  in  510  by  the  Crotonians  ,  is  said  to  have  been  situated. 
Excavations  were  begun  in  1888. 

About  6  M.  from  this  point,  near  Terranova,  are  the  scanty  ruins  of 
Thurii,  which  was  founded  by  the  Sybarites  after  the  destruction  of  their 
city.  In  443  the  Athenians  sent  a  colony  thither,  and  with  it  the  historian 
Herodotus.  Owing  to  the  wise  legislation  of  Charondas ,  Thurii  soon  at- 
tained to  great  prosperity.  It  formed  a  league  with  the  Romans  in  2S2, 
and  was  defended  by  C.  Fabricius  against  the  attacks  of  the  Lucanians, 
but  it  was  afterwards  plundered  by  Hannibal.  In  193  it  received  a  Roman 
colony,  and  the  new  name  of  Copiae,  but  it  rapidly  declined,  and  was  at 
length  entirely  deserted. 

58  M.  Corigliano  Calabro.  The  town,  with  11,000  inhab.,  lies 
on  a  height,  4  M.  from  the  station. 

651/2  M.  Rossano.  The  town  (Albergo  &  Trattoria  Milanese, 
tolerable,  R.  from  ll/.>  fr.),  with  18,000  inhab.,  situated  on 
a  hill,  and  possessing  quarries  of  marble  and  alabaster,  is  5  M.  dis- 
tant. This  was  the  birthplace  of  St.  Nilus.  The  archiepiscopal  library 
contains  a  valuable  6th  cent.  MS.  of  the  Gospels,  engrossed  on  purple 
vellum  and  copiously  illustrated. 

The  train  runs  close  to  the  sea  through  a  mountainous  district, 
and  crosses  the  Trionto.  Stations  Mirto  Crosia,  S.  Giacomo,  Pietra- 
paola,  Campana.  72^2  M.  Cariati  (Albergo  di  Sibari,  miserable). 
Farther  on,  the  train  traverses  pleasant  plantations  of  olives,  vines, 
and  rigs.  Stat.  Crucoli,  Cirb,  Torre  Melissa,  and  Strongoli.  This 
last,  a  squalid  village  with  3000  inhab.,  situated  on  a  bold  emin- 
ence 4  At.  from  the  station,  and  reached  by  a  bad  road,  was  the 
ancient  Poetelia,  founded  according  to  tradition  by  Philoctetes,  and 
besieged  by  Hannibal  after  the  battle  of  Cannse. 


toBeggio.  COTRONE.  19.  Route.     215 

119  M.  Cotrone  [Albergo  della  Concordia,  Alb.  Valente,  both  at 
the  entrance  to  the  town,  with  tolerable  trattorie;  carriage  from  the 
station  ifofr.),  a  thriving  little  seaport  with  'J7U0  inhab.,  situated  on 
a  promontory,  was  in  ancient  times  the  famous  Achaean  colony  of 
Croton,  founded  B.C.  710,  which  is  said  to  have  been  once  so 
populous  and  powerful  as  to  be  able  in  510  to  send  an  army  of 
100,000  men  into  the  field  against  Sybaris.  After  its  great  victory 
on  that  occasion,  however,  Croton  declined  ;  not  Ion?  afterwards 
the  citizens  were  defeated  by  the  Locrians  on  the  river  Sagras,  and 
in  299  the  town  fell  into  the  hands  of  Agathocles  of  .Syracuse. 
During  the  height  of  the  prosperity  of  the  city,  Pythagoras,  who 
had  been  banished  from  Samos  by  the  tyrant  Polycrates,  and  was 
then  in  his  40th  year,  established  himself  at  Croton.  lie  attracted 
a  band  of  disciples  and  founded  his  brotherhood  here,  B.C.  4">0 
but  was  at  length  banished  in  consequence  of  the  jealousy  of  the 
citizens  (comp.  p.  203).  On  the  way  to  the  station  are  large  store 
houses  for  the  fruit  which  is  exported  hence  in  considerable  quan- 
tities. A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  old  Castle,  dating  from  the  reisn 
of  Charles  V.,  the  highest  tower  of  which  commands  a  line  \ie\v 
(admission  by  applying  to  an  officer  or  sergeantj.  —  A  pleasant  walk 
may  be  taken  through  the  Strada  Margherita  to  the  harbour. 

Oranges  and  olives  thrive  admirably  in  the  environs,  and  are 
largely  exported.  Liquorice  is  also  a  staple  product.  An  intro- 
duction to  a  member  of  the  Baracco  family,  which  is  all-powerful 
in  this  neighbourhood,  will  be  found  of  great  service  (sometimes 
obtainable  through  the  consuls  at  Naples). 

About  7  31.  to  the  S.E.  is  the  Capo  delle  Colonne,  or  Capo  Xao,  alow 
promontory,  much  exposed  to  the  wind.  (Route  to  it  by  land  2'/2  hrs., 
very  rough ;  boat  6-10  fr.)  As  the  steamer  rounds  this  cape ,  the  eye  is 
arrested  by  a  solitary  column,  rising  conspicuously  on  massive  substruc- 
tures above  the  few  modern  buildings  of  the  place.  This  is  now  the  sole 
relic  of  the  Temple  of  Hera  of  the  Lacinian  Promontory ,  once  the  most 
revered  divinity  on  the  Gulf  of  Tarentum.  The  worship  of  Hera  has  been 
replaced  by  that  of  the  Madonna  del  Capo,  to  whose  church,  close  to  the  tem- 
ple, a  number  of  young  girls  from  Cotrone  ('le  verginelle")  go  every  Satur- 
day in  procession,  with  bare  feet.  To  the  S.W.  of  this  promontory  are 
three  others,  the  Capo  delle  Cimiti,  the  Capo  Rizzulo,  and  the  Capo  Castella. 

Beyond  Cotrone  the  train  quits  the  coast,  and  traverses  a  hilly 
district.  12372  M.  Pudano.  —  Near  (1291/2  M.)  Cutro  it  passes 
through  a  long  tunnel  (5  min.).  Stations  Jsola-  Capo-  Rizzuto,  Roc- 
cabernarda,  Botricello,  Cropani,  Sellia,  Simmeri. 

156  M.  Catanzaro  -  Marina ;  about  l/2  M.  from  the  station  is 
La  Rocceletta,  the  ruins  of  the  mediaeval  abbey  of  Roccella.  — 
From  the  Marina  a  branch-line  (bl/-2  M.  in  25  min.)  runs  via  S. 
Maria  to  Sala,  the  station  for  the  loftily  situated  town  of  Catanzaro. 

Catanzaro.  —  Hotels.  Alb.  di  Lionetti,  Centeale  ,  both  tolerable- 
Alb.  Sekkavalle.  —  Trattoria  Cenlrale,  in  the  Piazza.  Farther  along  the 
Cors'o    Cafi  del  Oenio. 

Diligence  at  6  p.m.  to  Tiriolo  (p.  220)  in  connection  with  the  dilieenpP0 
to  Cosenza  and  Eeggio.  —  Mule  3-5  fr.  a  day.  6entes 

British  Vice-Consul,  Signor  Alphonso  Cricelli. 


216     Route  19.  CATANZARO.  From  Metap onto 

Catanzaro,  with  28,600  inhab.  (including  the  suburbs),  the 
capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  prettily  situated  8  M. 
from  the  sea,  possesses  numerous  velvet  and  silk  manufactories,  and 
luxuriant  olive-groves.  The  Cathedral  contains  a  Madonna  with  S. 
Domenico,  a  good  Venetian  picture  of  the  16th  century.  Fine  views 
are  obtained  from  the  campanile  and  from  the  ViaBeUavista  (N.  side 
of  the  town).  Near  the  castle  is  a  small  Provincial  Museum  (key  at 
the  prefecture,  not  always  obtainable),  containing  coins,  vases, 
and  other  antiquities  from  the  Greek  settlements  of  the  district 
(tine  *Helmet  from  Tiriolo ;  statuette  of  yEsculapius ;  among  the 
pictures,  a  Lucretia  by  a  Venetian  master,  and  a  Madonna  by  An- 
tonello  Saliba,  1508).  The  Castle  was  built  by  Robert  Guiscard. 
The  climate  is  cool  in  summer,  and  snow  often  lies  in  winter.  Many 
wealthy  families  reside  here.  The  handsome  Calabrian  costume  is 
still  frequently  seen  here,  particularly  on  Sundays.  Numerous 
pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  hence. 

Beyond  Catanzaro  the  line  skirts  the  coast  and  passes  through 
several  promontories  by  means  of  tunnels. 

160  M.  Squillace,  the  ancient  Scylaceum,  is  perched  on  an  al- 
most inaccessible  rock,  4*/2  M.  from  the  station  and  nearly  opposite 
the  lofty  Monte  Moscia,  which  here  projects  into  the  sea;  it  is  not 
visible  from  the  railway. 

Cassiodovius,  the  private  secretary  of  Theodoric  the  Great ,  was  horn 
at  Scylaceum  ,  and  after  the  death  of  his  master  retired  to  his  native 
place,  where  he  founded  a  monastery  ,  wrote  a  number  of  learned  works, 
and  died  in  575,  upwards  of  90  years  old.  —  To  the  N.  of  Squillace  the 
Emp.  Ot/w  II.  was  defeated  in  July,  982,  by  the  Arabs,  who  had  crossed 
over  from  Sicily.  He  himself  escaped  almost  by  a  miracle,  and  succeeded 
in  reaching  Eossano,  where  he  met  his  consort  Theophano.  Otho  did  not 
long  survive  this  reverse;  he  died  at  Rome  in  December,  983,  and  was 
interred  in  the  old  church  of  St.  Peter. 

The  train  passes  through  the  promontory  by  means  of  two  tunnels. 
Stations  Montauro,  Soverato,  Sun  Sostene,  Sanf  Andrea,  Badolato, 
Santa  Caterina ,  Monasterace-  Stilo  (near  which  are  iron-works), 
Iiiace.  lWdi/.2  M.  Caulonia.  The  river  Alaro  is  supposed  to  be  the 
Sagras  of  antiquity,  where  an  army  of  130,000  Crotonians  is  said  to 
have  been  utterly  routed  by  10,000  Locrians.  On  this  river  lies 
Castelvetere,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Achfean  Caulonia,  where 
Pythagoras  sought  refuge  after  his  expulsion  from  Croton. 

197  M.  Roccella  Ionica,  with  6500  inhab. ;  the  old  town,  with 
its  ruined  castle ,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  a  rock  overhanging 
the  sea.  —  Near  the  station  of  (201l/2  M.)  Gioiosa  Ionica  is  a  small 
ancient  amphitheatre.  From  this  point  the  magnificent  scenery 
resembles  that  of  Greece.    204  M.  Siderno  Marina. 

2071/2  M.  Gerace  (Alb.  Locri,  Via  Garibaldi,  R.  H/2  ft.,  clean). 
The  town,  with  9600  inhab.,  and  a  cathedral,  originally  Romanesque, 
in  which  the  antique  columns  are  still  extant,  lies  on  the  slope  of 
a  lofty  spur  of  the  Apennines,  having  risen  from  the  ruins  of  Locroi 


toReggio.  REGGIO.  19.  Route.     217 

Epizephyrioi,  the  once  celebrated  colony  of  the  Loerians,  founded  B.C. 
683,  provided  with  a  salutary  code  of  laws  by  Zaleucus  (664),  and 
extolled  by  Pindar  and  Demosthenes  for  its  wealth  and  love  of  art. 
The  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  near  Torre  di  Oerace  are  now  oon- 
cealed  by  an  orange-garden. 

The  Passo  del  Mercante,  a  mountain  path,  leads  from  Gerace  through 
beautiful  woods,  and  over  the  lofty  Aspromonie  ,  to  Cittanova.  The  top 
of  the  pass  commands  a  delightful  view  of  the  sea  in  both  directions. 
Thence  via  Radicena  to  Gioia  Tauro  (p.  221)  or  to  Seminara,  2'/2  31.  to  the 
S.E.  of  Palmi  (p.  222),  about  37  M.  in  all. 

Stations:  Ardore,  Bovalino,  Bianconuovo.  Two  tunnels.  228  M. 
Brancaleone.  The  line  now  skirts  the  Capo  Spartivento,  the  Pro- 
montorium  Herculis  of  antiquity,  the  S.E.  extremity  of  Calabria 
(station,  232 M.).  Tunnel.  236  M.  Palizzi.  The  train  turns  towards 
the  W.  and  then  nearly  to  the  N.  From  this  point  to  Pellaro  the 
railway  is  bounded  on  the  right  by  barren  rocks  and  sand-hills, 
intersected  now  and  again  by  the  stony  beds  of  the  mountain  tor- 
rents, dry  in  summer  and  often  overgrown  with  oleanders.  Tunnel. 
Then :  239'/2  M.  Bova;  242  M.  Amendolea;  247  M.  Melito. 

253  M.  Saline  di  Reggio.  The  train  affords  a  view  of  the  coast 
and  mountains  of  Sicily,  and  rounds  the  Capo  dell'  Armi,  the  Pro- 
montorium  Leucopetrae,  which  was  in  ancient  times  regarded  as  the 
termination  of  the  Apennines.  Cicero  landed  here  in  B.C.  44, 
after  the  murder  of  Caesar,  having  been  compelled  by  adverse  winds 
to  turn  back  from  his  voyage  to  Greece,  and  he  was  then  per- 
suaded by  citizens  of  Rhegium  to  go  to  Velia,  where  he  met  Brutus. 

256  M.   Lazzaro;  260  M.  Pellaro;  263l/2  M.  S.  Gregorio. 

267  M.  Reggio.  — There  are  three  Railway  Stations  here:  Reggio 
Centrale,  Reggio  Succursale,  and  Reggio  Porto,  the  last  for  through-passengers 
to  or  from  Messina. 

Hotels.  -AlbeegoVittoeia,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  31/2,  B.  3/4,  lunch  2'/2,  D.  4fr. ; 
Alb.  Centeale,  Capeera,  well  spoken  of,  and  several  more  in  the  Corso 
Garibaldi.  Novaka,  in  the  Strada  Plebiscito;  Teinaceia,  on  the  Marina. 
—  The  larger  hotels  have  also  good  trattorie.  —  Cafes  :  SpinelU,  in  the 
Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele ;  Giordano,  Corso  Garibaldi. 

Carriages  (stand  in  the  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele),  per  drive  80  c,  at 
night  1  fr.  20  c. ;  per  hr.  l'/2  fr.,  at  night  2  fr.  20  c. 

Steamer  to  Messina  every  morning  and  evening,  in  about  1  hr. ,  fares 
4  or  3  fr.  (pp.  213,  322) ;  embarcation  and  landing  25  c.  (bargaining  neces- 
sary); the  passage  may  also  be  made  in  one  of  the  Naples  mail-steamers, 
which  cross  several  times  weekly  (landing  or  embarcation  50  c). 

Reggio,  called  Reggio  di  Calabria  to  distinguish  it  from  Reggio 
nell'  Emilia,  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  and 
an  archiepiscopal  residence,  with  16,000  inhabitants.  Known  in 
antiquity  as  Rhegium,  it  was  originally  a  Eubcean  colony,  and  was 
peopled  in  B.C.  723  by  fugitive  Messenians.  Rhegium  soon  rose  to 
prosperity,  but  it  also  early  suffered  the  hardships  of  war.  In  387 
B.  C.  the  town  was  captured  and  destroyed  by  Dionysius  I.  of  Syra- 
cuse, and  in  270  B.  C.  by  the  Romans.  In  the  middle  ages  it 
suffered  the  same  fate,  successively  at  the  hands  of  Totila  the  Goth 
in  549,  the  Saracens  in  918,  the  Pisans  in  1005,  Robert  Guiscard 


218     Route  19.  REGGIO. 

in  1060,  and  the  Turks  in  1552  and  1597.  The  town  was  almost 
entirely  destroyed  by  the  great  earthquake  of  1783,  and  it  therefore 
now  presents  a  modern  appearance,  with  its  broad  and  handsome 
streets  extending  from  the  sea  to  the  beautiful  hills  in  the  rear, 
which  are  studded  with  numerous  and  handsome  villas. 

The  Cathedral,  a  spacious  basilica  with  pillars,  dates  from  the 
17th  cent. ;  the  Cappella  del  Sacramento,  to  the  left  of  the  high- 
altar,  is  richly  adorned  with  coloured  marble.  On  the  facade  is  a 
quotation  from  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles.  —  In  the  small  piazza  to 
the  right,  at  the  back  of  the  cathedral,  is  the  Museo  Comunale, 
containing  fine  terracottas,  lamps,  statuettes,  and  vases  (including  a 
few  very  antique  specimens  and  native  examples  with  curious  or- 
namentation) ;  a  relief  of  a  woman  dancing,  of  the  6th  cent.  B.C., 
with  its  architectural  framework  painted  black,  red,  and  yellow; 
similar  fragments  of  a  later  date,  with  elegant  ornamentation  on  a 
bright  red  ground;  mosaics,  small  bronzes, coins,  inscriptions,  etc. — 
Above  the  cathedral  rises  the  Castello. 

In  the  piazza  adjoining  the  railway-station  is  a  statue  of  Gari- 
baldi. —  A  military  band  often  plays  in  the  Piazza  "Vittorio 
Emanuele,  which  is  embellished  with  a  statue  of  Italia.  —  The 
Strada  Reggio  Campi,  which  runs  along  the  heights  behind  the 
town,  forms  a  charming  promenade  with  varying  views  (especially 
fine  by  evening -light)  of  the  environs  and  the  Sicilian  coast.  The 
distance  from  Reggio  to  Messina  is  about  63/4  M. 

Excursions.  At  the  back  of  Reggio  rises  the  imposing,  forest-clad  As- 
promonte,  the  W.  extremity  of  the  range  which  in  ancient  times  bore  the 
name  of  Sila;  the  highest  point  is  the  Montalto  (6420  ft.).  The  summit  is 
overgrown  with  beech-trees,  the  slopes  partly  with  pines.  Here,  in  the  vici- 
nity of  Reggie,  Garibaldi  was  wounded  and  taken  prisoner  by  the  Italian 
troops  under  Pallavicini ,  29th  Aug.,  1862.  The  ascent,  which  is  very 
laborious,  is  best  undertaken  from  Villa  S.  Giovanni  (p.  222)  or  from  Scilla 
(p.  222;  two  mules  and  one  guide  for  a  day  and  a  half  14  fr.).  If  possible 
the  start  should  be  made  early  on  a  moonlight  night.  The  summit,  which 
is  reached  in  9  hrs.,  commands  an  imposing  view  of  the  sea,  the  islands, 
and  Sicily. 

To  Scilla ,  see  p.  222.  —  Ascent  of  the  Mte.  Elia ,  see  p.  222.  This 
excursion  is  best  made  by  taking  the  train  to  Palmi,  ascending  the  hill 
on  foot  in  1  hr.,  and  descending  through  beautiful  chestnut  wood  to  Bag- 
nara  in  3  hrs.  Travelling  in  the  province  of  Reggio  has  always  been 
considered  free  from  hazard. 


20.  From  Sibari  to  Reggio  via  Cosenza. 

From  Sibari  to  Cosenza,  43  M.,  railway  in  about  3  hrs.  (fares  7  fr.  80, 
5  fr.  50,  3  fr.  55  c).  —  From  Cosenza  to  Rosarno,  about  87  M.,  high- 
road traversed  by  Vetture  Gorriere  and  diligences  (Giornaliera),  in  about 
25  hrs.  —  From  Rosarno  to  Reggio,  38  M.,  railway  in  about  3  hrs.  — 
Those  who  have  time  should  go  by  carriage  from  Palmi  to  Reggio. 

Sibari,  a  station  on  the  Naples  and  Reggio  railway,  see  p.  214. 
—  6  M.  Cassano  al  Ionio,  the  station  for  Cassano  (9000  inhab.),  a 
beautifully  situated  town  5  M.  to  the  N.,  with  warm  baths,  and  an 


COSENZA.  30.  Route.     219 

ancient  castle  on  a  lofty  rock.  The  castle  affords  a  magnificent 
survey  of  the  valleys  of  the  Coscile  and  the  Crati ,  the  Sybaris  and 
the  Crathis  of  antiquity.  The  wild,  barren  limestone  mountains 
rise  here  almost  immediately  from  the  plain ,  culminating  in  the 
Monte  Pollino.  The  Torre  di  Milo  is  pointed  out  here  as  the  tower 
whence  the  stone  was  thrown  that  caused  the  death  of  T.  Annius 
Milo,  when  he  was  besieging  Cosa  on  behalf  of  Pompey. 

10  M.  Spezzano  -  Castrovillari ;  Spezzano  is  5  M.  and  Castro- 
villari  91/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station  (p.  208).  Beyond  (15  M.J 
Tarsia  the  train  reaches  the  valley  of  the  Crati ,  which  it  ascends, 
crossing  several  affluents  of  that  river.  Stations :  8.  Marco-Rog- 
giano,  Mongrassano  -  Cervico,  Torano  -  Lattarico,  Acri-  Bisignano, 
Montalto-Rose,  and  Rende-San-Fili.  To  the  W.  are  the  Calabrian 
spurs  of  the  Apennines. 

43  M.  Cosenza  [Albergo  Vetere,  on  the  promenade,  good  cuisine, 
E.  not  scrupulously  clean;  Due  Lionetti ,  with  the  good  Trat- 
toria Centrale),  the  ancient  Consentia,  once  the  principal  city  of 
the  Bruttii,  is  now  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Cosenza, 
with  16,700  inhab.,  and  an  archiepiscopal  residence,  containing 
well-built  houses  and  palaces  of  wealthy  landed -proprietors  and 
manufacturers.  It  lies  on  the  N.  slope  of  a  hill  which  separates 
the  Crati  from  the  Busento  above  the  confluence  of  these  streams. 
The  town  is  commanded  by  a  castle  (fine  view),  the  walls  of  which, 
though  9  ft.  in  thickness,  have  been  unable  to  resist  the  shocks  of 
earthquakes.  In  1181  the  town  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake, 
and  again  on  4th  Feb.,  1783,  when  upwards  of  30,000  persons 
perished  in  this  district.  Serious  damage  was  also  sustained  from 
the  earthquakes  of  1854  and  1870. 

Alaric,  King  of  the  West  Goths,  died  at  Cosenza  in  410,  after 
he  had  plundered  Rome  and  made  an  attempt  to  pass  over  into 
Sicily.  His  coffin  and  his  treasures  are  said  to  have  been  buried 
in  the  bed  of  the  river  Buxentius  (Busento).  The  site  is  unknown, 
but  a  tradition  of  Cosenza  places  it  at  the  union  of  the  Busento 
and  the  Crati,  near  the  station. 

The  Gothic  Cathedral  contains  the  tomb  of  Louis  III.  of  Anjou, 
who  died  here  in  1435,  eighteen  months  after  his  marriage  with 
Margaret  of  Savoy.  The  church  is  now  being  restored  according  to 
the  ancient  plans  which  have  been  rediscovered.  —  Near  the  Pre- 
fettura  and  the  new  Theatre  are  tasteful  gardens.  Here  a  monu- 
ment, with  an  allegorical  figure  of  Liberty  by  Gius.  Pacchioni  of 
Bologna,  was  erected  in  1879  to  the  Brothers  Bandiera  and  other 
participators  in  the  Calabrian  rising  of  1844.  Farther  on  are  several 
busts:  to  the  right,  Bernardino  Telesio,  the  philosopher  (d.  1588), 
to  the  left,  Garibaldi,  Cavour,  Mazzini.  —  A  picturesque  footpath 
leads  from  the  promenade  up  the  valley  of  the  Crati  to  the  Castello 
(p.  219),  which  commands  a  fine  view.  The  return  may  be  made 
through  the  valley  of  the  Busento,  the  entire  walk  taking  about  1  hr. 


220     Route  20.  ROGLIANO.  From  Sibari 

From  Cosenza  to  Paola  (p.  223),  where  the  steamers  touch  three  times 
weekly,  a  drive  of  31/2  hrs.  (seat  in  a  diligence  on  these  days  5  fr. ;  in 
summer  at  night  only). 

Another  road  leads  to  the  E.  from  Cosenza  to  S.  Giovanni  in  Fiori 
(diligence  daily  in  12  hrs. ,  starting  on  the  other  side  of  the  Crati ;  in 
winter  and  spring  going  only  as  far  as  Spezzano  Grande).  Thence  we  may 
proceed  by  bridle-paths  to  Cotrone  (p.  215).  S.  Giovanni  is  the  principal 
place  in  the  Sila  (locally  known  as  'Monte  Nero'') ,  a  lofty  and  wooded 
range  of  mountains,  extending  about  37  M.  from  N.  to  S.,  25  M.  from  E.  to 
W.,  attaining  a  height  of  6325  ft.,  and  embracing  an  extensive  network  of  val- 
leys. These  mountains,  which  consist  of  granite  and  gneiss,  are  remarkable 
for  their  beauty  and  fertility;  their  slopes  are  studded  with  numerous  villages 
(picturesque  costumes),  while  higher  up  they  are  clothed  with  chestnuts,  oaks, 
beeches,  and  pines.  The  E.  and  S.  slopes  descend  to  the  Gulf  of  Taranto. 
In  ancient  times  these  mountains  supplied  the  Athenians  and  Sicilians 
with  wood  for  ship-building,  and  they  were  famed  for  their  cattle.  The 
snow  does  not  disappear  from  the  higher  regions  until  the  latter  end 
of  May,  or  June,  after  which  they  afford  a  delightful  summer  abode  to 
the  natives  with  their  flocks.  This  beautiful  district,  which  has  very 
rarely  been  explored  by  travellers ,  is  still  in  a  very  primitive  condition. 
Letters  of  introduction  to  influential  inhabitants  should  be  procured  at 
Naples  or  Messina  by  intending  explorers.  The  best  months  for  the 
tour  are  July,  August,  and  September. 


The  Road  to  Rosasno  ascends  gradually  through  a  well-cul- 
tivated district.   The  heights  are  clothed  with  oaks  and  chestnuts. 

9^2  M.  Rogliano,  a  town  of  5500  inhah.  on  a  hill  to  the 
left,  commands  a  charming  view  of  the  fertile  country  and  the 
surrounding  mountains,  above  which  on  the  right  rises  the  M.  Co- 
cuzzo  (5050  ft.).  The  road  descends  into  the  ravine  of  the  Sa- 
vuto,  the  ancient  Sabatus,  ascends  Le  Crocelle  di  Agri folio,  an 
abrupt  ridge  of  the  Apennines,  and  leads  by  Carpanzano,  Coraci, 
Arena  Bianca,    and  through  ravines  and  forest,  to  — 

34  M.  Tiriolo,  a  town  with  4000  inhab.,  loftily  situated  on 
the  watershed  between  the  Corace ,  which  falls  into  the  bay  of 
fSquillace,  and  the  Lamato,  which  descends  to  the  bay  of  S.  Eufe- 
mia,  the  ancient  Sinus  Terinaeus.  Near  Tiriolo,  a  name  perhaps 
derived  from  the  Ager  Taurianus,  numerous  coins  and  other  anti- 
quities have  been  found.  In  1640  a  bronze  tablet  (now  at  Vienna) 
was  discovered  here,  bearing  the  Senatusconsultum  against  the 
Bacchanalia,  of  B.  C.  186,  mentioned  by  Livy  (xxxix.  18). 

Before  Tiriolo  is  reached,  a  road  to  the  left  crosses  the  river  Corace  and 
leads  to  (9>/2  M.)  Catanzaro  (diligence,  see  p.  215). 

To  the  right  a  road  leads  to  (11  M.)  Nicastro,  an  episcopal  town  on 
the  hillside,  in  the  now  ruined  castle  of  which  Frederick  II.  once 
for  several  years  confined  his  son,  the  German  king  Henry  VII.,  who  had 
rebelled  against  him  in  1235.  The  latter  died  at  Martorano  in  1242,  and 
was  buried  at  Cosenza.  Towards  the  sea,  3  M.  from  Nicastro,  lies  S. 
Eufemia ,  with  a  celebrated  Benedictine  monastery  founded  by  Robert 
Guiscard,  but  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1638. 

The  road  to  Reggio  traverses  a  chain  of  hills,  and  then  crosses 
the  Lamato,  the  right  bank  of  which  it  skirts  for  some  distance, 
commanding  almost  uninterrupted  views  of  the  bays  of  Squillace 
and  S.  Eufemia,   which  are  here  barely  19  M.   apart. 


to  Reggio.  MILETO.  SO.  Route.    221 

We  next  pass  Casino  Chiriaco  and  cross  the  plain  of  Maida, 
where  in  1806  the  English  auxiliaries  of  the  Bourbons  under 
Sir  John  Stuart  defeated  the  French  under  Regnier  and  drove 
them  out  of  Calabria.  The  road  crosses  the  fertile ,  but  un- 
healthy plain  via,  Francavilla  to  Torre  Masdea. 

56  M.  Fizzo,  a  small  town  with  8500  inhab.,  situated  on  a  sand- 
stone rock  on  the  coast.  Below  it  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  castle 
where  Joachim  Murat,  king  of  Naples,  who  had  landed  here  the  day 
before,  was  shot  on  13th  Oct.  1815.  Outside  the  town  is  a  Monu- 
ment to  those  who  perished  in  the  revolt  of  the  brothers  Bandiera 
(p.  219).  — '■  The  Naples  and  Messina  steamers  touch  here(p.  223). 

The  road,  running  near  the  coast,  next  leads  to  — 

65  M.  Monteleone  (Albergo  d'ltalia,  tolerable  ;  one-horse  carr. 
to  Gioia,  in  51/2  hrs.,  10  fr.),  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Hipponion, 
the  Vibo  Valentia  of  the  Romans,  a  loftily  situated  town  with  12,000 
inhab.,  which  was  much  damaged  by  the  earthquake  of  1783.  The 
old  castle  was  erected  by  Frederick  II.  Pleasant  promenade  com- 
manding a  charming  view  of  the  sea,  Sicily,  and  the  Lipari  Islands. 

A  road  leading  N.  to  the  coast  (3  M.)  passes  through  the  village  of 
Bivona,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  port  of  Vibo,  destroyed  by  the  Saracens 
in  983. 

Beyond  Monteleone  a  road  diverges  to  the  right  to  Tropea  (p.  224), 
where  the  steamers  from  Naples  to  Messina  touch  twice  a  week ,  and 
whence  the  Lipari  Islands  (E.  33)  may  he  visited.  Tropea  will  be  a  station 
on  the  new  railway  from  Nicotera  (see  below)  to  Pizzo. 

The  road  now  traverses  a  hilly  district  to  — 

74^/2  M.  Mileto,  once  the  favourite  residence  of  Count  Roger  of 
Sicily,  whose  son,  King  Roger,  was  born  here.  Pop.  5000.  It  con- 
tains the  ruins  of  the  abbey  of  S.  Trinita  founded  by  him,  where 
his  remains  and  those  of  his  first  wife  Eremberga  formerly  reposed  in 
two  ancient  sarcophagi  which  are  now  in  the  museum  at  Naples.  — 
The  mountains  of  Sicily,  and  particularly  the  summit  of  JEtna, 
now  become  conspicuous  in  the  horizon. 

From  Mileto  a  mountain-path  leads  E.  to  the  (5  M.)  grand  ruins  of 
the  once  celebrated  monastery  of  Santo  Stefano  del  Bosco,  situated  in  a 
lonely  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines.  Near  the  neighbouring  village 
of  Soriano  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  Dominican  monastery  of  S.  Do- 
menieo  Soriano,  also  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1783;  and,  on  the 
farther  side  of  the  low  ridge  of  Monte  Astore,  the  remains  of  the  Certosa, 
in  which  St.  Bruno  established  his  austere  order  of  Carthusians  in  1094, 
and  where  he  died  and  was  interred  in  1101. 

From  Mileto  the  road  gradually  descends  from  the  heights 
bounding  the  bay  of  Gioia  on  theN.,  and  reaches  ^^MORosarno, 
a  station  on  the  railway  between  Nicotera  and  Reggio  (see  below). 
The  picturesquely  situated  town  (4000  inhab.)  was  destroyed  by  the 
earthquake  of  1783. 

The  Railway  from  Nicotera  to  Reggio  (4372  M.  ,  in  about 

3'/2  hrs.)  skirts  the  coast.  —  Nicotera,  see  p.  224.   b1/^  M.  Rosarno. 

12  M.  Gioia  Tauro,  on  the  site  of  the   ancient  Metaurum,   a 


222   Route  20.  PALMI. 

desolate-looking  place,  situated  on  tlie  coast  to  the  right,  and  an 
extensive  depot  of  oil. 

The  line  crosses  the  Marro,  the  ancient  Metaurus,  a  river  famed 
for  its  fish.  The  earthquake  of  1783  was  particularly  destructive 
in  this  neighbourhood.  The  earth  opened  in  many  places ,  swallow- 
ing up  houses  entire,  and  filling  up  several  valleys. 

1772  M.  Palmi  (Vittoria,  pens.  5  fr.,  clean;  Roma,  R.  only.  — 
Trattoria  Louvre,  in  the  main  street,  fair.  —  Cab  to  the  town  1  fr.), 
with  15,500  inhab. ,  surrounded  by  orange  and  olive  plantations, 
and  affording  beautiful  views  of  the  coast  and  the  island  of  Sicily, 
particularly  from  the  Oiardino  puhblico. 

The  town  (450  ft.)  is  situated  about  halfway  up  the  "Monte  Elia, 
which  is  easily  ascended  in  1  hr.  by  a  good  path  through  olive-woods.  The 
top  commands  a  superb  view  of  the  Faro,  the  castle  of  Scilla,  the  town  and 
harbour  of  Messina,  and  the  majestic  iEtna  in  the  background.  The  N. 
coast  of  Sicily  is  visible  as  far  as  Milazzo ;  out  at  sea  are  Stromboli  and 
the  Lipari  Islands ;  to  the  N.  the  bay  of  Gioia  as  far  as  Capo  Vaticano. 
We  may  descend  in  20  min.  to  the  road  leading  from  Palmi  to  Bagnara, 
at  a  point  about  8  M.  from  the  station  of  Bagnara  (short-cuts  for  walkers). 

The  line  from  Palmi  to  Reggio,  traversing  chestnut  and  olive 
plantations,  skirts  the  E.  side  of  the  Mte.  Elia  (see  above),  on  the  S. 
slope  of  which  is  situated  — 

23  (/2  M.  Bagnara.  Farther  on  the  line  skirts  the  sea,  affording 
a  succession  of  fine  views. 

Walkers  from  Palmi  or  Monte  Elia  (see  above)  need  not  descend  to 
the  town ,  but  follow  the  road  above ,  which  does  not  reach  the  coast 
until  beyond  Bagnara. 

26  M.  Favazzina. 

29  M.  Scilla  (Locanda  di  Baviera,  on  the  Marina,  unpretend- 
ing and  moderate ;  a  relative  of  the  landlord  is  recommended  as 
a  guide  to  Aspromonte),  the  ancient  Scylla,  with  8000  inhab.,  re- 
built since  the  terrible  earthquake  of  1783.  The  castle,  situated 
on  a  promontory  commanding  the  town,  once  the  seat  of  the  prin- 
ces of  Scilla,  was  occupied  by  the  English  after  the  battle  of  Maida 
(p.  221),  and  defended  for  18  months  (until  1808)  against  the 
French.  Fine  view  of  Sicily,  across  the  Straits  of  Messina,  here 
3  M.  broad.  The  silk  and  wine  produced  here  enjoy  a  high  repu- 
tation. Numerous  swordflsh  (pesce  spada)  are  caught  here  in  July. 
Ascent  of  the  Aspromonte,  see  p.  218. 

The  rock  of  Scylla ,  represented  in  Homer's  Odyssey  as  a  roaring 
and  voracious  sea-monster  —  a  beautiful  virgin  above,  and  a  monster 
with  a  wolfs  body  and  dolphin's  tail  below  —  is  depicted  by  the  poets 
in  conjunction  with  the  opposite  Charybdis  as  fraught  with  imminent 
danger  to  all  passing  mariners.  The  currents  and  eddies  in  the  straits  are 
still  very  rapid,  but  it  is  now  believed  that  the  Charybdis  of  the  ancients 
is  by  no  means  exactly  opposite  to  the  whirlpool  of  Scylla,  as  the 
saying  Hncidis  in  Scyllam,  cupiens  vitare  Charybdiiii'  appears  to  indicate, 
but  outside  the  harbour  of  Messina,  7'/2  M.  from  Scilla,  at  the  point  now 
called  Gurofalo  (comp.  p.  322). 

32  M.  Cannitello.  —  34  M.  Villa  S.  Giovanni  (*Trattoria; 
oue- horse  carnage  to  Scilla  and  back  6-7  fr.,  incl.  halt),  prettily 
situated  ;  ascent  of  the  Aspromonte,  see  p.  217. 


PAOLA.  22.  Route.   223 

SG1^  M.  Catona,  opposite  Messina  (p.  313).  We  are  now  in  a 
region  of  luxuriant  vegetation,  with  oranges,  pomegranates,  palms, 
and  aloes.  —  381/2  M.  Oallico ;  39l/2  M.  Arehi- Reggio ;  41  M. 
8.  Caterina-Reggio ;  42  M.  Reggio-Succursale. 

43y2M.  Reggio- Centrale,  see  p.  217. 

21.  From  Naples  to  Messina  by  Sea. 

Communication  between  Naples  and  Messina  is  maintained  by  the 
Italian  Societti  Florio-Rubattino.  The  voyage  lasts  14-18  hrs.  (fares  43  fr. 
60,  27  fr.  60  c. ,  incl.  provisions).  Besides  the  direct  steamers  (twice  a 
week),  the  same  company  despatches  vessels  thrice  a  week  to  Sicily,  touch- 
ing at  the  chief  ports  on  the  Calabrian  coast,  and  taking  37-52  hrs.  in  all. 
—  Embarcation  with  luggage  1  fr. 

"We  enjoy  a  magnificent  retrospective  view  of  the  lovely  bay. 
After  2^2  hrs.  the  steamer  enters  the  strait  between  Capri,  with 
the  rugged  and  precipitous  Lo  Capo  (p.  156),  and  the  Punta  di 
Campanella  (p.  150).  Shortly  afterwards  a  view  of  the  Bay  of 
Salerno  is  disclosed.  As  the  sun  sets  and  the  vessel  gradually  stands 
out  to  sea,  Mt.  Vesuvius  presents  a  most  majestic  appearance. 

On  the  Direct  Voyage  the  steamer  reaches  the  open  sea  about 
dusk.  On  the  following  forenoon  the  volcano  of  the  island  of 
Stromboli ,  near  which  the  steamer  afterwards  passes,  becomes 
visible  on  the  right.  The  mountain-range  of  the  N.  coast  of  Sicily 
nest  comes  in  sight ,  presenting  a  very  striking  appearance.  As 
the  vessel  steers  for  the  Strait  of  Messina  we  observe  Scilla  on 
the  left,  and  the  Faro  on  the  right.  Arrival  at  Messina,  see  p.  313. 

The  Coasting  Steamers  pass  the  promontories  della  Licosa 
and  dello  Spartivento  and  the  Bay  of  Policastro  during  the  night. 
The  once  powerful  town  of  Policastro  (4000  inhab.)  was  destroyed 
by  Robert  Guiscard  in  1055,  and  by  the  Turks  in  1542. 

On  the  following  morning,  Monte  Pollino  (7325ft.),  which 
terminates  the  Neapolitan  Apennines,  is  the  most  conspicuous 
mountain,  and  adjoining  it  begin  the  Calabrian  Mts.  As  the  vessel 
proceeds  southwards  to  Paola  we  enjoy  a  succession  of  fine  views. 
The  coast  is  studded  with  numerous  towns  and  villages,  most  of 
them  situated  on  the  heights ,  between  which  valleys  descend  to 
empty  their  brooks  into  the  sea.  Verbicaro  is  seen  somewhat 
inland,  then  Diamante,  at  the  base  of  a  lofty  cliff.  Farther  on, 
Belvedere  with  4600  inhab.,  charmingly  situated  on  the  slopes  of 
the  mountain.  Then,  beyond  a  small  promontory,  in  the  bay  to  the 
S.,  lies  Cetraro,  the  inhabitants  of  which  are  anchovy- fishers. 
We  next  observe  Quardia,  on  a  lofty  hill,  with  warm  baths ;  then 
Fuscaldo,   with  10,000  inhab.  and  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle. 

Faola,  with  8500  inhab.,  beautifully  situated  in  a  ravine  and 
on  the  slope  of  the  mountain,  carries  on  an  extensive  oil  and  wine 
trade.  The  town,  which  some  suppose  to  be  the  Palycus  of  the 
Greeks,  was  the  birthplace  of  S.  Francesco  di  Paola,  founder  of  the 
mendicant  order  of  Minorites.  —  Diligence  for  Cosenza,  see  p.  219. 


224      Route  22.  PIZZO. 

After  a  halt  of  at>out  l!/2  hr.  the  vessel  resumes  her  voyage. 
On  the  coast  are  the  villages  of  San  Lucido,  Fiumefreddo,  and  Bel- 
monte,  at  the  hack  of  which  rises  the  conspicuous  Monte  Cocuzzo 
(5050  ft.).  Amantea  next  becomes  visible,  supposed  to  he  the 
ancient  Amantia  of  Bruttium.  The  town  and  fortress,  erected  on 
a  lofty  rock,  were  garrisoned  in  1806  by  royalists,  who  repulsed  the 
French  troops;  but,  after  severe  sufferings  from  famine,  they  were 
compelled  to  surrender  the  following  year.  To  the  S.  of  Amantea 
the  Savuto  falls  into  the  sea.  The  coast  becomes  flat  and  less  richly 
cultivated.  Farther  on,  Nocera;  then  past  the  Capo  Suvero  to  the 
Oolfo  di  Santa  Eufemia,   at  the  S.   end  of  which  lies  — 

Pizzo  (see  p.  221 ;  halt  of  1  hr.). 

At  the  S.  E.  angle  of  the  bay  lies  Monteleone,  see  p.  221. 

The  steamboat  rounds  Capo  Zambrone,  and  reaches  Tropea,  an 
ancient  town  (6000  inhab.)  in  a  delightful  situation,  the  climate 
of  which  is  much  extolled.  To  the  S.  is  the  Capo  Vaticano  with  its 
lighthouse,  projecting  far  into  the  sea.  In  the  bay  lies  Nicotera, 
near  the  influx  of  the  Mesima,  the  present  terminus  of  the  rail- 
way from  Reggio  (p.  222).  Gioia  Tauro,  see  p.  221.  Soon  after 
Pizzo  is  quitted  the  Lipari  Islands  (R.  33)  become  visible  to  the  W.; 
Stromboli,  with  its  continually  smoking  crater ,  is  the  most  conspi- 
cuous.   Off  Capo  Vaticano  the  Sicilian  mountains  suddenly  appear. 

Palmi ,  Bagnara,  Scilla,  see  p.  222.  The  Aspromonte  range, 
with  the  Montalto  (6420  ft.),  looks  uninteresting  from  this  side. 
We  now  enter  the  Strait  of  Messina,  which  presents  a  busy  scene 
during  the  daytime. 

Messina,  see  p.  313. 

22.  From  Naples  to  Palermo  by  Sea. 

Steamers  of  the  Society  Florio  -  Rubattino  daily  in  the  afternoon  in 
12-13  hrs. ;  fares  40  fr.  60,  25  fr.  60  c.,  including  provisions  (comp.  pp.  xvii, 
26).  —  The  pas  senger  should  be  on  deck  early  next  morning  to  enjoy  the 
beautiful  approach  to  Sicily  and  the  entrance  into  the  harbour. 

Beyond  Capri  the  steamer  reaches  the  open  sea.  Early  next 
morning  (between  5  and  6  o'cl.)  the  Lipari  Islands  (R.  33)  are  seen 
to  the  S.  (left);  later  the  island  of  Vstica  (p.  276)  to  the  W., 
long  remaining  visible ;  then,  about  10  a.m.,  the  towering  moun- 
tains of  Sicily  ;  to  the  extreme  right  is  the  Capo  di  Oallo,  nearer 
rises  Monte  Pellegrino  (2065  ft.  ;  p.  268),  and  to  the  left  is  the 
Monte  Catalfano  (1230  ft.),  with  a  smaller  pointed  promontory, 
guarding  the  E.  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  Palermo.  At  length  we  per- 
ceive the  beautiful  and  extensive  city.  A  little  to  the  left  of  Monte 
Pellegrino  are  the  lofty  Monte  Cuccio  (3445  ft.),  Monreale  (p.  271), 
and  farther  distant  the  Monte  Oriffone.  —  Palermo,  see  R.  23. 


SICILY. 


General  Remarks. 

Strabo,  the  Greek  geographer,  in  one  passage  calls  Sicily  an  'addition' 
in  another  a  'detached  portion'  of  Italy;  and  there  is  indeed  not  one  of 
the  surrounding  islands  so  intimately  allied  with  the  great  peninsula 
which  bisects  the  Mediterranean.  Goethe  has  justly  observed  that,  with- 
out Sicily,  Italy  would  lose  much  of  its  charm:  'the  climate  cannot 
be  too  highly  extolled ;  the  beauties  are  innumerable.''  This  cannot  fail 
to  be  experienced  by  every  traveller  who  forms  acquaintance  with  this 
'gem  among  islands',  which  is  the  most  important  link  between  Italy, 
Greece,  and  North  Africa,  not  only  in  a  geographical,  but  also  in  a  histor- 
ical and  artistic  sense.  Those  whose  time  and  resources  permit  are  there- 
fore strongly  recommended  to  visit  Sicily  before  proceeding  homewards. 

Plan  of  Tour.  The  best  seasons  for  travelling  in  Sicily  are  the  months 
of  April  and  May,  or  October  and  November.  Even  in  January  the  weather 
is  often  fine  and  settled  (comp.  pp.  231,  232).  The  ascent  of  JEtna,  in  spring 
is  possible ,  but  the  best  period  is  August  or  September ,  after  the  first 
showers  of  autumn  have  cleared  the  atmosphere. 

The  principal  points  in  the  island  may  be  visited  in  a  fortnight  or 
three  weeks  without  divergence  from  the  railway.  The  following  distri- 
bution of  time  may  be  followed :  —  At  Palermo  3-4  days ;  the  towns  in 
the  W.  part  of  the  island  (Segesta,  Selinunto,  Mazzara,  Marsala,  Trapani) 
4-5  days  (Segesta  and  Selinunto  alone  2-3  days) ;  from  Palermo  via.  Termini 
to  Cefalu  1  day ;  back  via  Termini  and  Roccapalumba  to  Girgenti,  1/2-I  day ; 
at  Girgenti  1  day;  from  Girgenti  to  Catania  1  day;  Catania  and  Mt.  JStna 

2  days ;  at  Syracuse  IV2  day ;  at  Taormina  1  day ;  at  Messina,  with  excur- 
sions to  Reggio  or  Palmi  2  days.  The  best  mode  of  exploring  the  very 
picturesque  N.  Coast  is  indicated  at  p.  307.  —  Travellers  with  limited  time 
should  begin  at  Messina  and  return  to  Naples  from  Palermo,  as  this  is 
the  only  route  with  daily  steamers. 

The  most  energetic  of  travellers,  however,  will  take  at  least  a  month 
to  exhaust  the  beauties  of  the  island.  The  following  routes  are  the  most 
important :  —  At  Palermo  4-5  days ;  by  land  in  4  days,  or  by  steamer 
direct  in  15  hrs.  from  Palermo  to  Messina ;  in  the  latter  case  Milazzo 
and  Patti  (Tyndaris)  should  be  visited  from  Messina,  2  days;  Messina, 
with  excursions  as  above,  2  3  days;    Taormina   1  day;    Catania  and  ^Etna 

3  days;  stay  at  Syracuse  2-3  days;  by  railway  or  steamer  to  Girgenti;  at 
Girgenti  1  day;  by  land  in  2  days  to  Sciacca,  Selinunto,  and  Castelvetrano; 
thence  by  Calatafimi  (Segesta)  in  1  day,  or,  if  Marsala  and  Trapani  be 
included,  in  4  days,  to  Palermo. 


Geography  and  Statistics. 

Sicily  (Greek  Sikelia  or  Trinacria)  is  the  largest  island  in  the 
Mediterranean.  Its  area,  according  to  the  official  estimate,  is 
29,241  sq.  kilometres,  but  other  recent  estimates  give  it  at  about 
25,800  sq.  kilometres,  i.  e.  about  10,000  Engl.  sq.  M.  The  form 
of  the  island  is  an  irregular  triangle.  Closely  connected  with  Italy 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  15 


226  SICILY.      Geography  and  Statistics. 

by  geological  structure  as  well  as  in  geographical  position ,  it 
forms  a  continuation  of  the  great  Apennine  range  which  stretches 
across  the  Mediterranean  from  the  main  trunk  of  Europe  to  Africa, 
a  submerged  prolongation  of  the  range  being  also  distinctly  tra- 
ceable. The  distance  between  Cape  Boeo  and  Cape  Bon  is  only 
75  M. ,  and  the  depth  in  the  direct  line  never  exceeds  100  fath- 
oms, except  in  one  narrow  belt  running  S.E.  towards  the  island 
of  Pantellaria  (248  fathoms),  while  the  Straits  of  Pantellaria, 
separating  Sicily  from  Africa,  are  as  a  rule  not  more  than  50  fath- 
oms deep.  This  submerged  elevation  is  probably  of  volcanic  origin 
(comp.  p.  380).  To  the  N.  of  Sicily  lies  another  volcanic  tract,  the 
eruptions  of  which  have  produced  the  Lipari  Islands.  The  S.E.  portion 
of  the  island  of  Sicily  is  of  the  tertiary  formation,  and  is  connected 
with  the  Malta  Islands  by  a  submarine  table-land.  The  virtual  W. 
apex  of  Sicily  is  formed  by  Maritimo,  the  westernmost  of  the  Aega- 
dian  Islands,  which  lie  in  shallow  water.  The  Straits  of  Messina 
are  only  2  M.  wide  at  their  narrowest  point,  and  at  their  shallowest 
part  (near  the  same  point)  51  fathoms  deep ,  while  on  the  N.  and 
E.,  on  the  contrary,  the  shores  of  the  island  descend  abruptly  into 
the  deepest  parts  of  the  Mediterranean,  a  sounding  of  no  less  than 
2000  fathoms  having  been  made  within  about  30  M.  of  Cape  Passero. 
Mountains.  Sicily  is  of  a  hilly  or  mountainous  character  through- 
out, and  contains  no  plains  of  any  extent.  It  may  be  roughly  de- 
scribed as  a  table-land  of  a  mean  level  of  2300-2800  ft.,  somewhat 
tilted  towards  the  N.,  and  higher  at  the  edges  than  in  the  interior. 
The  loftiest  of  the  non-volcanic  summits  are  towards  the  N.,  where 
a  range  of  mountains  runs  from  the  Straits  of  Messina  along  the 
coast,  forming  a  prolongation  of  the  Apennine  range  which  tra- 
verses the  Italian  peninsula.  The  continuity  of  the  chain  remains 
unbroken  as  far  the  valley  of  Polizzi,  a  place  of  historical  interest, 
whence  the  Hirnera  Septentrionalis  (Fiume  Orande)  flows  N.  to  the 
Tyrrhenian,  and  the  Himera  Meridionalis  (Fiume  Salso)  S.  to  the 
African  Sea.  The  W.  part  of  the  range ,  which  consists  rather 
of  detached  groups  of  mountains,  is  the  only  one  which  has  received 
a  distinguishing  name  from  the  natives,  who  call  it  the  Madonie.  Its 
highest  summits  are  the  Pizzo  dell'  Antenna  (6480  ft.),  the  loftiest 
mountain  in  the  island  after  iEtna,  and  the  Monte  Salvatore,  both 
covered  with  snow  during  one  half  of  the  year.  Scientific  geographers 
apply  the  name  of  Nebrodic  Mountains  to  the  Madonie  together  with 
the  mountains  to  the  N.  and  N.W.  of  JEtna  (where  the  Monte  Sori 
attains  a  height  of  6050  ft.),  while  they  distinguish  that  section  of 
the  range  which  abuts  on  the  Straits  of  Messina  as  the  Peloric  Chain 
(the  Monies  Neptunii  or  Pelorides  of  the  ancients). 

To  the  W.  of  the  important  watershed  of  the  two  Himeras  the 
mountains  still  form  a  chain  or  range,  though  of  less  distinct  char- 
acter, the  highest  summits  of  which  all  lie  near  the  N.  coast. 
As  we  proceed   towards  the  W. ,  however,   single  mountains   or 


Oeography  and  Statistics.     SICILY.  227 

isolated  clusters  become  more  prominent,  till  they  end  at  last 
in  the  pyramid  of  Monte  S.  Giuliano,  the  ancient  Eryx,  rising 
precipitously  from  the  sea  and  standing  like  a  gigantic  sentinel  to 
guard  the  W.  coast  of  the  island.  From  this  great  northern  range, 
running  fromE.  to  W.,  various  minor  chains  branch  off  towards  the 
S.  and  S.W.  into  the  heart  of  the  island,  leaving  both  on  the  E. 
and  W.  small  littoral  plains  between  them  and  the  sea. 

In  the  S.  E.  corner  of  the  island  is  a  mountainous  district  of  a 
very  peculiar  and  interesting  geological  character,  united  with  the 
other  mountain-systems  only  by  a  narrow  ridge  near  Caltagirone. 
In  the  heart  of  it  rises  the  Monte  Lauro  (3230  ft.),  whence  the 
considerable  rivers  of  this  part  of  Sicily  descend  in  all  directions 
through  profound  ravines  and  valleys ,  the  sides  of  which  are 
honeycombed  with  caverns.  These  erosions  reveal  to  us  the  fact, 
that ,  while  the  surface  of  the  mountain  consists  chiefly  of  tertiary 
shell-limestone ,  this  formation  alternates  lower  down  with  strata 
of  dark  volcanic  rock.  Nearly  the  whole  remainder  of  the  island, 
particularly  the  districts  in  the  middle,  and  to  the  S.  and  S.W., 
is  also  composed  of  the  tertiary  formation.  To  this  formation, 
represented  mainly  by  marl,  clay,  and  gypsum,  belong  extensive 
deposits  of  sulphur  and  rock-salt,  the  first  of  which  contribute  so 
materially  to  Sicily's  wealth  and  prosperity,  while  the  latter  are 
as  yet  almost  untouched.  The  sulphur-strata  extend  westwards  as 
far  as  the  secondary  mountain-ranges  near  Salemi  and  Partanna, 
and  eastwards  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  Judica  and  Rammacca. 
Whatever  part  of  the  interior  of  the  island  the  traveller  visits, 
he  is  sure  to  stumble  upon  a  sulphur-mine,  or  meet  long  trains  of 
waggons  or  mules  conveying  this  'yellow  gold'  of  Sicily  to  the  coast. 
The  richest  mines  are  at  Lercara  (p.  292),  situated  on  the  watershed 
between  the  Tyrrhenian  and  African  Seas,  to  theN.  of  Girgenti,  and 
near  Caltanissetta  (p.  299).  —  The  tertiary  formations  in  Sicily 
attain  a  most  unwonted  altitude;  the  huge  rock  on  which  lies  Castro- 
giovanni,  the  historical  Enna  (p.  300),  rears  its  head  no  less  than 
3270  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  —  The  mountains  on  the  N. 
coast,  with  the  ramifications  extending  to  the  Eryx  and  the  Monte 
San  Calogero  near  Sciacca,  belong  to  the  secondary  formations,  and 
consist  chiefly  of  calcareous  limestone.  This  limestone  is  perforated 
by  numerous  caverns,  in  which  the  bones  of  huge  pachydermata, 
denizens  of  the  country  before  its  separation  from  the  African  con- 
tinent, and  various  prehistoric  antiquities  are  frequently  found.  — 
The  Peloric  range  and  the  mountains  of  the  N.  coast  from  Messina 
to  Cape  Calava  are  composed  of  crystalline  rocks  of  the  primary  for- 
mations, but  their  bases  are  overlaid  with  strata  of  recent  tertiary 
deposits,  so  that  the  older  formation  seldom  comes  to  light  on  the 
coast  itself.  The  identity  of  the  geological  structure  of  this  part  of 
the  island  with  that  of  Calabria  is  a  proof  of  the  intimate  connec- 
tion between  Sicily  and  the  Italian  peninsula.    The  rock  of  Scylla 


228  SICILY.      Geography  and  Statistics. 

(p.  222) ,  visible  from  the  Faro ,  and  the  peninsula  of  Milazzo 
(p.  312),  are  both  formed  of  fine-grained  granite  and  gneiss.  The 
S.  margins  of  the  Peloric  Mts.  and  of  the  Aspromonte  (p.  218) 
consist  of  clay-slate. 

Mt.  Mtna  (10,870  ft.),  the  loftiest  mountain  in  Sicily  and  the 
largest  volcano  in  Europe,  rises  on  the  E.  side  of  the  island,  and  is 
completely  detached  from  the  other  mountains  by  the  deep  valleys 
of  the  Simeto  and  Alcantara.  The  -watershed  between  these  rivers, 
however,  near  the  Lake  of  Ourrita,  -which  is  sometimes  quite  dry, 
attains  a  considerable  height  (3790  ft.).  The  district  in  which  this 
great  volcano  rises  has  evidently  been  at  one  time  a  bay  of  the 
sea,  still  recognisable  in  the  plain  of  Catania.  The  mountain  is 
capped  with  snow  throughout  the  year,  except  during  a  few  weeks 
in  summer ,  while  in  some  of  the  gullies  the  snow  never  melts 
entirely. 

The  Coasts  of  Sicily  are  as  a  rule  steep  and  rocky,  short  reaches 
of  flat  coast  being  found  in  the  gulfs  of  Catania  and  Terranova, 
and  to  the  S.  of  Trapani  only.  A  peculiarity  of  the  Sicilian  coast 
is  found  in  the  numerous  narrow  peninsulas  lying  in  front  of  it, 
which  have  in  comparatively  recent  times  only  ceased  to  be  islands, 
and  which  almost  invariably  form  good  harbours.  Of  this  nature 
are  the  peninsulas  of  Syracuse,  Augusta,  Trapani,  and  Milazzo. 
The  strikingly  picturesque  Monte  Pellegrino ,  near  Palermo,  was 
at  one  time  an  island  off  the  coast ,  and  the  sickle-shaped  piece 
of  land  which  forms  the  harbour  is  also  of  very  Tecent  geological 
formation.  To  these  capacious  natural  harbours  falls  to  be  added 
the  artificial  one  of  Palermo  ,  the  somewhat  inadequate  successor 
of  the  famous  ancient  harbour,  which  has  been  gradually  silted  up 
during  the  geological  elevation  of  theW.  coast  of  Sicily.  The  same 
cause  has  rendered  the  fine  harbour  of  Trapani  almost  useless. 
The  S.  coast  is  perfectly  destitute  of  natural  harbours,  and  there- 
fore unapproachable  in  stormy  weather;  but  artificial  harbours 
have  recently  been  constructed  at  great  expense  at  Porto  Empe- 
docle  and  Licata. 

The  Rivers  of  Sicily  are  very  numerous ,  but  none  of  them 
are  large ,  and  with  a  few  exceptions  they  all  dry  up  in  summer. 
The  district  of  primary  formations  in  the  N.  E.  of  the  island  does 
not  contain  a  single  perennial  water-course ,  but  many  broad  Fiu- 
mare,  or  river-beds ,  filled  after  heavy  rain  with  turbulent  and 
destructive  torrents ,  which  carry  down  large  masses  of  the  easily 
detached  rock ,  and  refuse  to  be  confined  within  embankments, 
often  causing  widespread  devastation.  The  stony  beds  of  the 
'fiumare'  are  sometimes  upwards  of  l/i  M.  wide  at  the  mouth,  and 
even  in  winter  are  traversed  by  a  mere  thread  of  water  only. 
The  numerous  streams  towards  the  S.E.,  which  take  their  rise  in 
the  porous,  honeycombed  limestone  hills,  are,  on  the  other  hand, 
comparatively  copious  in  the  lower  part  of  their  course.    Water 


Geography  and  Statistics.     SICILY.  229 

may  generally  be  found  by  digging  below  the  dry  beds  of  the 
fiumare  even  in  summer.  None  of  the  rivers  are  navigable.  (In  the 
Map  at  the  end  of  the  Handbook  the  watercourses  which  dry  up 
in  summer  are  coloured  brown,  and  those  which  contain  water 
throughout  the  whole  year  are  blue.) 

The  splendid  Forests  with  which  Sicily  was  originally  covered, 
and  which  yielded  the  admirable  ship-building  timber  mentioned 
so  often  in  the  days  of  the  Greek  and  Saracenic  domination,  have 
been  disappearing  so  rapidly  under  the  axe  of  the  woodman  since 
the  16th  cent.,  and  especially  since  the  beginning  of  this  cent., 
that  it  is  estimated  that  not  more  than  4  per  cent  of  the  area  of  the 
island  is  now  under  wood.  In  the  11th  cent,  the  Monte  Lauro  was 
still  clothed  with  forests  of  pines  and  fir,  and  in  the  15th  cent, 
the  Monte  Pellegrino,  now  conspicuous  for  its  baldness,  was  clothed 
with  underwood.  The  only  considerable  forests  are  those  of  jEtna 
and  the  mountains  on  the  N.  coast,  the  finest  of  which  are  the 
Caronian  Forest  and  the  Bosco  di  Ficuzza  on  the  Busambra,  where 
the  Bourbon  sovereigns  used  to  hunt  when  they  resided  at  Palermo. 
These  woods  consist  of  oaks,  chestnuts,  elms,  ashes,  etc.,  and  are 
carpeted  with  thick  green  underwood  like  the  woods  of  Central 
Europe ,  while  others  nearer  the  coast  and  in  lower  situations  con- 
sist mainly  of  isolated  evergreen  oaks  [Quercus  Ilex,  Quereus  Suber, 
etc.).  Pine-forests  are  found  in  the  JEtna  region  only.  The  Macchie, 
a  kind  of  thicket  of  dense ,  almost  impenetrable ,  and  often  thorny 
bushes,  5-6  ft.  high,  peculiar  to  the  regions  of  the  Mediterranean, 
and  growing  on  the  denuded  .sites  of  former  forests ,  are  less  com- 
mon in  Sicily  than  in  neighbouring  lands. 

Products  and  Cultivation.  The  current  impression  that  only 
a  small  portion  of  the  area  of  Sicily  is  cultivated ,  is  quite  er- 
roneous. In  1857  it  was  estimated  that  about  200,000  acres  only 
were  unproductive,  and  1,600,000  acres  under  pasture,  leaving 
5,500,000  acres,  or  2/4  of  the  whole  area,  under  cultivation.  Since 
that  date,  moreover,  a  large  proportion,  probably  about  one-half, 
of  these  unproductive  lands  have  been  reclaimed ,  chiefly  through 
the  partition  of  large  estates  falling  into  the  hands  of  government 
on  the  failure  of  heirs.  The  value  of  pasture  in  Sicily  may  be 
gathered  from  the  fact  that  an  annual  rental  of  25,000  fr.  has  been 
paid  for  the  apparently  barren  Mte".  Pellegrino  near  Palermo. 

The  cultivation  of  the  soil  was  formerly  restricted  almost  entirely 
to  the  production  of  wheat,  but  the  culture  of  trees,  especially  of 
the  Citri  (the  generic  term  for  oranges,  lemons,  and  citrons),  is  now 
found  to  be  still  more  lucrative,  and  assumes  ever-increasing  pro- 
portions. According  to  an  estimate  made  between  1870  and  1880, 
in  the  Conca  d'Oro  near  Palermo  the  yield  of  a  hectare  (2!/2  acres) 
of  lemon-trees  averages  4225  fr.,  and  that  of  a  hectare  of  orange- 
trees  2880  fr.  per  annum.  The  orange  and  lemon  harvest  lasts  from 
November  to  March,  but  the  fruit  does  not  thoroughly  ripen  till 


230  SICILY.      Geography  and  Statistics. 

January.  These  fruits  are  cultivated  most  sedulously  on  the  N. 
coast  from  Partinico  to  Messina,  and  on  the  E.  coast  as  far  S.  as 
Catania.  This  branch  of  agriculture  is  interesting,  not  only  from 
an  economical  but  also  from  a  social  and  moral  point  of  view.  The 
constant  attention  -which  the  Citri  demand  renders  it  impossible 
for  the  agricultural  labourers  to  live  in  crowded  villages,  often 
at  a  considerable  distance  from  their  daily  work;  so  that  this  branch 
of  agriculture  tends  to  a  more  equal  distribution  of  the  population, 
and  contributes  to  improve  their  moral  condition.  The  people  are 
now  beginning  to  descend  from  their  rocky  nests  (p.  233)  and  settle 
among  the  fields.  About  one-fifth  of  the  whole  island  is  now  de- 
voted to  the  cultivation  of  trees  of  various  kinds,  the  products  of 
which  are  exported  to  the  value  of  140,000,000  fr.  annually,  a  sum 
that  will  appear  still  more  considerable  when  it  is  remembered 
that  nine-tenths  of  the  islanders  themselves  subsist  entirely  on 
wheaten  bread,  fruit,  and  fish. 

Another  prevalent  error  with  regard  to  Sicily  is  that  its  fertility 
has  decreased.  Rain  still  falls  in  sufficient  quantity  to  make  the 
fruits  of  the  field  as  plentiful  now  as  of  yore ,  in  spite  of  the  poor 
agricultural  implements  and  the  want  of  manuring.  Wheat,  Barley, 
and  Beans,  which  form  almost  the  only  crops,  cover  all  the  avail- 
able level  districts  in  the  island.  The  concentration  of  the  pop- 
ulation in  a  few  large  villages,  the  peculiarity  of  the  farm-tenure, 
the  inferiority  of  the  agricultural  implements,  and  the  occasional 
deficiency  of  hands,  are  unfavourable  to  the  agricultural  prosperity 
of  the  country.  The  fields  on  the  N.  and  E.  coasts,  like  those  in 
Sardinia  and  N.  Africa,  are  enclosed  by  Cactus-hedges  (Opuntia 
Ficus  Indica  and  Opuntia  Amyclaea),  which  frequently  attain  a 
considerable  height.  Their  fruit ,  the  cactus-fig ,  of  a  sweetish, 
somewhat  insipid  taste,  is  much  esteemed  by  the  natives,  who  in 
autumn  use  it  to  a  considerable  extent  as  a  substitute  for  bread. 
Sumach  (Rhus  coriaria,  the  leaves  of  which  are  used  in  tann- 
ing and  as  a  black  dye)  and  Linseed  are  among  the  staple  ex- 
ports. Other  products  exported,  besides  the  Citri  and  their  es- 
sential oils,  are  almonds,  olive  oil,  wine  (Marsala,  Riposto,  Ca- 
tania, Vittoria  ,  and  Siracusa)  ,  nuts  ,  capers  ,  pistachios  ,  manna, 
liquorice,  lentils,  and  raisins.  The  chief  animal  products  are  silk, 
hides,  wool,  anchovies,  tunny-fish,  and  cantharides.  Mineral  pro- 
ducts:  sulphur,  salt,  and  marble.  The  island  possesses  no  mines 
of  the  precious  metals  or  of  coal.  Many  of  the  merchants  are  Ger- 
mans and  Swiss,  who  have  to  a  great  extent  taken  the  place  of  the 
English ,  but  the  Sicilians  themselves  are  now  beginning  to  turn 
their  attention  more  zealously  to  commerce.  About  two-thirds  of 
the  manufactured  goods  imported  into  Sicily ,  as  well  as  Italy, 
pass  through  the  hands  of  Swiss  and  German  merchants.  The  sta- 
tistics relating  to  the  exports  and  imports  are  untrustworthy  but 
it  is  ascertained  that  the  former  are  much  the  more  considerable. 


Geography  and  Statistics.      SICILY.  231 

Climate.  The  climate  of  Sicily,  apart  from  trie  not  unfrequent 
storms  of  winter,  is  a  most  delightful  one,  and  in  equableness 
is  second  to  that  of  Madeira  alone.  This  is  especially  true  of  the 
climate  of  Palermo ,  which  is  rapidly  coming  into  favour  as  a 
winter  residence  for  invalids.  Catania  is  somewhat  colder  in 
winter,  and  is  moreover  exposed  to  sudden  changes  of  temperature 
on  account  of  the  proximity  of  Mt.  ^Etna.  Messina  and  Syracuse 
are  windy  places. 

In  Sicily  the  year  consists  of  two  seasons  only ,  the  rainy  and 
the  dry.  The  Rainy  Season  corresponds  with  the  winter  of  Cen- 
tral Europe,  and  is  marked  by  a  fall  of  temperature.  The  freezing- 
point ,  however,  is  seldom  reached  ,  except  occasionally  just  be- 
fore dawn ,  and  there  are  few  winter  days  when  one  cannot  sit 
comfortably  in  the  open  air  in  a  sheltered  situation.  The  rainy 
season  is  at  the  same  time  that  of  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation. 
It  is  ushered  in  by  thunder-storms  in  September  and  October, 
sets  in  steadily  in  November,  generally  relaxes  somewhat  in  Jan- 
uary, ends  towards  the  close  of  March,  and  is  followed  by  a  few 
violent  thunder-storms  in  April  and  May.  In  June,  July,  and  Au- 
gust, but  particularly  in  July,  almost  no  rain  falls,  but  the  heat  is 
tempered  by  the  proximity  of  the  sea.  Continuous  rain  is,  how- 
ever, rare,  even  in  the  wet  season,  and  there  are  seldom  more  than 
a  dozen  days  in  the  year  absolutely  without  sunshine.  Cicero's 
remark  on  Syracuse ,  that  the  sun  shines  there  every  day  without 
exception,  is  almost  literally  true.  The  heaviest  rainfall  occurs  in 
December,  next  to  which  are  February  and  March.  In  Palermo  it 
averages  22  inches  per  annum,  of  which  3  in.  fall  in  December 
and  only  about  1/6  in.  in  July;  in  Syracuse  the  rain-fall  is  16  in., 
with  practically  none  in  June,  July,  and  August.  Wheat  is  sown 
at  the  beginning  of  the  rains,  and  reaped  shortly  after  their  close. 

The  Winds  also  vary  in  accordance  with  these  two  divisions  of 
the  year.  From  October  to  March  the  rainy  W.S.W.  wind,  blowing 
from  the  equatorial  regions ,  prevails ;  from  May  to  August  the 
prevalent  wind  blows  from  the  N.E.,  forming  a  continuation  of 
the  trade-winds  from  beyond  the  N.  pole ;  while  in  April  and 
September  these  winds  blow  alternately.  Violent  winds,  with  the 
exception  of  the  Scirocco ,  are  rare  ,  and  the  barometrical  changes 
are  on  the  whole  slight.  The  Scirocco,  one  of  the  hot  periodical 
storm-winds ,  which  blow  from  the  Sahara  in  all  directions  ,  is 
among  the  few  drawbacks  to  the  climate  of  Sicily.  It  visits  Palermo, 
where  it  is  particularly  disagreeable,  about  twelve  times  a  year, 
and  may  occur  in  any  month,  though  it  is  most  frequent  and  most 
violent  in  April  and  the  short  transitionary  seasons  generally.  On 
the  E.  coast  it  is  generally  charged  with  moisture,  but  at  Palermo 
it  is  hot  and  dry.  The  highest  temperature  ever  observed  in  the 
shade  at  Palermo  (105°  Fahr.)  was  registered  during  the  scirocco. 
During  its  continuance  the  sky  is  of  a  dull,   leaden  appearance, 


232  SICILY.    Geography  and  Statistics. 

often  -with  a  tinge  of  red,  occasioned  by  the  columns  of  dust 
■which  the  storm  frequently  Tarings  with  it  from  a  long  distance.  If 
rain  falls,  these  fine  particles  of  dust  occasion  the  phenomenon 
known  as  'blood  rain',  which  may  he  easily  collected  on  the  fo- 
liage of  the  trees.  The  effect  of  the  scirocco,  often  less  felt  at  first 
by  visitors  from  the  N.  than  by  the  natives,  is  to  occasion  a  diffi- 
culty of  breathing  and  lassitude,  which  unfit  one  for  work,  espe- 
cially of  a  mental  nature.  The  scirocco,  however,  often  lasts  for  a 
few  hours  only,  and  rarely  for  more  than  three  days. 

One  of  the  great  advantages  of  the  climate  of  Sicily  arises  from 
the  comparatively  slight  difference  in  the  temperature  of  the  differ- 
ent seasons.  The  heat  at  Palermo  in  summer  is  less  than  at  Milan  or 
Florence,  while  the  winters  are  remarkably  mild  and  equable.  The 
mean  temperature  in  August,  the  hottest  month,  is  78°  Fahr.,  and 
in  January,  the  coldest  month,  52°,  the  difference  being  26°  only, 
while  the  mean  annual  temperature  is  about  64°.  The  lowest  temper- 
ature yet  recorded  at  the  observatory  at  Palermo  has  been  35°,  but 
it  is  known  that  the  mercury  occasionally  descends  3-4°  below  the 
freezing-point  in  the  early  morning  almost  every  winter.  During 
December,  January,  February,  and  March  the  thermometer  remains 
at  almost  the  same  level,  and  abrupt  changes  are  very  rare.  The 
mean  daily  range  of  temperature  at  Palermo  is  about  12°,  in  winter 
less,  and  on  some  days  not  more  than  4-5°.  Catania  has  a  mean 
annual  temperature  of  65°;  in  summer  it  is  warmer  than  Palermo, 
and  in  winter  colder.  The  mean  temperature  in  August  is  81°  and 
that  of  January  50°,  showing  a  range  of  31°.  The  daily  range  of 
temperature  is  also  somewhat  greater  (121/2-i-i°),  and  a  difference 
of  41°  has  been  noticed  within  24  hours. 

In  spite  of  those  climatic  advantages,  the  traveller  in  winter 
must  be  on  his  guard  against  the  very  abrupt  differences  of  temper- 
ature in  passing  from  the  sun  into  the  shade ,  and  also  against  the 
very  rapid  fall  of  temperature  frequently  perceived  in  wet  weather. 
For  Palermo,  see  p.  248. 

The  Population  of  the  island  at  the  end  of  1889  was  about 
3,265,688,  or  on  an  average  289  souls  per  Engl.  sq.  M.  National 
schools  have  been  established  everywhere  under  the  new  regime, 
and  the  towns  now  possess  commercial  (scuola  tecnica  and  istituto 
tecnico)  and  grammar  schools,  but  the  number  of  'analfabeti'  (per- 
sons who  can  neither  read  nor  write)  still  amounts  to  nearly  four- 
fifths  of  the  whole  population  (9/i0ths  in  1864). 

Districts.  From  the  Saracen  period  down  to  the  beginning  of 
the  present  century  the  island  was  divided  into  three  districts  :  the 
Val  (Welaia,  i.e.  province)  di  Demone,  the  N.E.  portion;  the  Val 
di  Noto,  the  S.E.  part;  and  the  Val  di  Mazzara,  to  the  S.W.  Since 
1817  it  has  been  divided  into  seven  prefectures  :  (1)  Palermo,  (2) 
Trapani,  (3)  Oirgenti,  (4)  Caltanissetta,  (5)  Catania,  (6)  Siracusa, 
(7)  Messina. 


Historical  Notice.  SICILY.  233 

Towns.  The  piincipal  towns  are  Palermo,  Messina,  Catania, 
Modica,  Trapani,  Termini,  Acireale,  and  Caltagirone.  Of  the  120- 
130  towns  in  the  kingdom  of  Italy  which  contain  above  10,000  in- 
hab.  upwards  of  one-quarter  belong  to  Sicily.  This  is  explained 
by  the  fact,  that  owing  to  the  constant  wars  of  the  middle  ages, 
the  predatory  incursions  of  barbarians,  and  the  insecure  state  of 
the  country,  it  was  unsafe  for  the  peasantry  to  live  in  villages,  and 
this  class  has  therefore  mainly  contributed  to  swell  the  population 
of  the  towns. 


Historical  Notice. 

1.  Political  History. 

First  Period.  According  to  the  traditions  of  ancient  Greek 
mariners,  Sicily  was  once  inhabited  by  Cyclopes,  Gigantes,  Loto- 
phagi,  Lsestrygones,  etc.,  whom  Sicilian  historians  have  endea- 
voured to  classify  into  iron-workers,  stone-workers ,  farmers,  and 
gardeners.  The  most  ancient  inhabitants  of  Sicily  were  a  prehistoric 
race ,  the  only  certain  traces  of  whom  are  the  flint  implements 
found  in  various  parts  of  the  island  and  perhaps  a  few  of  the  stone 
monuments.  They  were  followed  by  the  Sicani,  who  were  believed 
by  some  authorities  to  be  of  Iberian,  by  others  of  Celtic  origin.  It 
is  more  probable,  however,  that  they  belonged  to  an  Italian  race. 
They  dwelt  at  first  in  the  E.  part  of  the  island ,  but  within  the 
period  embraced  in  history  are  found  only  in  the  W.,  between  the 
Tyrrhenian  Sea  (Hykkara)  and  the  Libyan  Sea.  The  deserted  terri- 
tory of  the  Sicani  to  the  E.  was  taken  possession  of  before  B.C. 
1000  by  the  Sikeli,  a  tribe  related  to  the  Latins,  which,  as  some 
authorities  believe,  had  already  had  a  warlike  history  and  made 
maritime  raids  upon  Egypt.  They  dwelt  in  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
island,  in  the  middle  of  its  E.  half,  especially  in  the  valley  of  the 
Symsethus,  and  on  the  N.  coast.  Their  principal  towns  were:  <S. 
Hybla,  Menae  (Mineo),  Morgantium,  N.  Hybla  (Paterno),  Centuripe, 
Agyrion  (Agira) ,  Assorus  (Asaro) ,  Aluntium  (S.  Marco) ,  and 
Agathyrnum  (near  C.  Orlando).  The  Phoenicians ,  coming  from 
the  E.,  founded  numerous  colonies  on  the  coast,  and  the  Elymi, 
supposed  to  be  descended  from  the  Trojans,  occupied  Segesta,  Eryx 
(with  the  sanctuary  of  Aphrodite),  Entella,  and  other  settlements. 
The  Oreeks  make  their  appearance  in  Sicily  in  B.C.  735,  when 
the  Ionian  Theocles  of  Chalcis  (or  Athens)  founded  Naxos,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cantara.  During  the  following  year  Dorians  from 
Corinth  under  Archias  founded  Syracuse  ;  and  in  728  Megara  Hy- 
blaea,  another  Dorian  colony ,  was  settled  by  Lamis  of  Megara. 
Zankle  (afterwards  Messana)  was  peopled  by  Ionians ,  who  also 
founded  Leontinoi  and  Catana  (729).     A  Dorian   character  was 


234  SICILY.  Historical  Notice. 

impressed  upon  the  S.  coast  by  the  foundation  of  Gela  (Terranova) 
by  Rhodians  and  Cretans  in  689,  of  Selinus  by  Megara  in  628,  and 
of  Acragas  (Girgenti)  by  Gela  in  581.  The  Dorians  also  made 
themselves  masters  of  the  S.E.  corner  of  Sicily  through  the  Syra- 
cusan  colonies  of  Acrae  (664),  Casmenae  (624),  and  Camarina  (599). 
Himera  (648),  the  only  Greek  colony  on  the  N.  coast,  was  a  joint 
settlement,  in  which  the  Ionian  element  preponderated.  The  oc- 
cupation of  the  Lipari  Islands  in  B.C.  580  marks  the  close  of  the 
spread  of  the  Hellenic  power  in  Sicily,  and  the  beginning  of  the 
Semitic  reaction.  The  Phoenicians,  who  on  the  approach  of  the 
Greeks  had  retired  to  Solus  (or  Soloeis~),  Panormus,  and  Motye,  now 
placed  themselves  under  the  protection  of  Carthage  and  thus 
imposed  a  check  upon  the  farther  progress  of  Hellenisation.  The 
Sikelians  in  the  E.  part  of  the  island,  however,  became  almost 
entirely  subject  to  the  Greeks. 

The  Greek  colonies  ,  as  they  grew  in  population  ,  soon  began 
to  suffer  from  internal  dissensions  between  the  different  classes  of 
citizens.  This  led  to  the  formation  of  codes  of  law,  of  which  that 
of  Charondas  of  Catana  is  the  most  famous,  and  to  the  establishment 
of  tyrannies ,  a  form  of  government  which  attained  its  most  char- 
acteristic development  in  this  island.  The  most  notorious  of  the 
ancient  tyrants  was  Phalaris  of  Acragas.  About  the  year  500  we  find 
tyrants  ruling  over  most  of  the  cities,  of  whom  Oelon  of  Syracuse 
and  Theron  of  Acragas,  united  by  ties  of  family  and  interest,  rescued 
the  Greek  sway  from  the  perils  which  threatened  it,  when,  at  the 
time  of  the  2nd  Persian  War,  the  Greeks  of  the  western  sea  were 
attacked  by  the  Carthaginians.  In  480,  however,  the  Greek  cause 
was  victorious  at  the  battle  of  Himera,  the  Salamis  of  Sicily.  The 
short  but  brilliant  golden  age  of  Hellenic  Sicily  now  began,  sullied 
only  by  the  destruction  of  the  Chalcidian  towns  of  the  E.  coast  by 
Gelon  and  Hiero.  The  greater  number  of  the  temples  and  aqueducts 
at  Syracuse,  Girgenti,  Selinunto,  Himera,  etc.,  the  ruins  of  which 
excite  such  admiration  at  the  present  day,  were  erected  between  480 
and  450.  But  internal  municipal  struggles,  fomented  by  the  demo- 
cratic parties  of  the  different  cities,  and  the  renewed  antagonism  of 
the  Doric  and  Ionic-Achaean  elements  paved  the  way  for  a  cata- 
strophe, to  which  the  great  Athenian  campaign  against  Syracuse  in 
413  contributed.  Previously  to  this  the  Greeks  had  a  formidable 
enemy  to  subdue  in  Ducetius  of  Netum  (Noto),  who  united  the  towns 
of  the  Sikeli  in  a  confederacy  against  the  Greeks  (461-440),  but  this 
league  was  compelled  to  succumb  to  the  united  forces  of  Syracuse 
and  Acragas.  What  the  Sicilians  had  failed  in  effecting  was  now 
attempted  with  more  success  by  the  great  power  of  Africa.  The 
Carthaginians  now  began  their  most  formidable  attacks.  Selinus 
and  Himera  were  destroyed  by  them  in  409,  Acragas  taken  in  406, 
Gela  and  Camarina  conquered  and  rendered  tributary  to  Carthage 
in  405,  and  Messana  razed  to  the  ground  in  396.  These  events  were 


Historical  Notice.  SICILY.  235 

instrumental  in  causing  the  rise  of  Dionysius  I.  in  Syracuse  (406), 
who  extended  and  fortified  the  town,  and  after  a  war  of  varied 
success  finally  drove  back  the  Carthaginians  in  382  to  the  Halycus 
(Platani).  Down  to  his  death  in  367  Dionysius  was  master  of  the 
destinies  of  Syracuse,  and  with  it  of  Sicily ;  the  greater  part  of  Magna 
Graecia  was  also  subject  to  his  sway,  and  he  even  intervened  several 
times  with  effect  in  the  affairs  of  Greece  itself.  Syracuse  never  again 
attained  to  such  a  pinnacle  of  power.  On  his  death  dissensions  began 
anew.  Dionysius  II.  was  inferior  to  his  father,  and  Dion  able  as  a 
philosopher  only.  Timoleon,  however,  succeeded  in  343-336  in 
restoring  some  degree  of  order,  defeated  the  Carthaginians  in  340  on 
the  Crimissus  (Belice),  and  again  restricted  their  territory  to  the 
W.  of  the  Halycus.  But  even  his  brilliant  example  availed  little 
to  arrest  the  increasing  degeneracy  of  the  people.  In  317-289 
Agathocles  usurped  the  sovereignty  of  Syracuse,  and  in  310  the 
Carthaginians  besieged  the  city,  although  unsuccessfully.  The 
brilliant  African  campaign  of  Agathocles  was  without  enduring  re- 
sult. Pyrrhus  too,  who  had  wrested  the  whole  island  as  far  as  Lily- 
bsum  from  the  Carthaginians,  soon  quitted  it  again  for  Italy  (278- 
276),  dissatisfied  with  the  prevailing  anarchy  and  disunion.  In 
274  Hiero  II.  usurped  the  tyranny  of  Syracuse.  His  siege  of  Mes- 
sana,  of  which  Campanian  mercenaries,  or  Mamertines,  had  treach- 
erously taken  possession ,  compelled  the  latter  to  sue  for  Roman 
aid.  Thus  it  was  that  the  Romans  obtained  a  footing  in  the  island, 
and  the  struggle  between  them  and  the  Carthaginians ,  who  had 
supported  Hiero,  now  began.  The  chequered  contest  for  the  sover- 
eignty of  Sicily  lasted  from  264  to  241.  Hiero,  who  in  263  had 
become  an  ally  of  Rome,  ruled  over  a  small  independent  kingdom 
on  the  E.  coast,  even  after  the  final  expulsion  of  the  Carthaginians. 
After  the  death  of  Hiero  II.  his  successor  Hieronymus  espoused  the 
cause  of  Hannibal,  in  consequence  of  which  Syracuse  was  besieged 
by  Marcellus  in  214-212,  taken,  and  sacked.  In  210,  after  the 
conquest  of  Agiigentum ,  the  island  became  the  first  Roman  pro- 
vince, and  was  divided  into  two  districts  or  qusesturse,  Lilybaetana 
(with  the  capital  Lilybaeum,  now  Marsala)  and  Syracusana. 

Second  Period.  At  first  the  Romans  endeavoured  to  improve 
the  agriculture  of  the  island,  which  had  suffered  seriously  during 
the  protracted  wars,  with  a  view  to  render  Sicily  a  more  profitable 
province.  The  system  of  cultivation  borrowed  from  the  Carthagi- 
nians was  indeed  successfully  employed  in  rendering  Sicily  the 
granary  of  Italy,  but  at  the  same  time  it  proved  the  occasion  of 
the  Servile  Wars  (139-131  and  104-101),  which  devastated  the 
island  to  a  greater  extent  than  the  Punic  wars.  Under  the  Roman 
governors  the  ancient  prosperity  of  Sicily  steadily  declined.  The 
notorious  Verres  in  particular  impoverished  it  greatly  during  his 
term  of  office  in  73-71.  The  civil  war  between  Octavianus  and 
Sextus  Pompeius,  who  had  made  himself  master  of  Sicily  (43-36) 


236  SICILY.  Historical  Notice. 

but  was  defeated  by  Agrippa  in  the  naval  battle  of  Nauloclius  (on 
the  N.  coast,  near  Mylae),  also  accelerated  its  ruin,  so  that  Augustus 
was  obliged  in  a  great  measure  to  repeople  the  island  and  re-erect 
the  towns.  Little  is  known  of  its  internal  affairs  after  this  date. 
With  regard  to  the  dissemination  of  Christianity  in  Sicily  numer- 
ous traditions  are  current,  and  are  preserved  in  the  different  mar- 
tyrologies.  It  is  recorded  (Acts  xxviii.  12)  that  St.  Paul  landed 
at  Syracuse  on  his  journey  to  Rome  and  spent  three  days  there, 
and  the  evidence  of  monuments  goes  to  confirm  the  local  legends 
of  missionaries  from  the  E. ,  and  to  refute  the  later  pretensions  of 
Rome  to  the  establishment  of  Christianity  in  Sicily.  Syracuse 
would  thus  seem  to  have  taken  an  important  part  in  the  spread  of 
the  Christian  religion.  After  the  end  of  the  3rd  cent,  the  new 
religion  made  rapid  progress,  and  in  the  reign  of  Constantine  it  had 
become  practically  the  universal  faith,  though  heathens  still  existed 
in  Sicily  down  to  the  6th  century. 

After  another  servile  war  had  devastated  the  country  (A.D. 
259),  Syracuse  began,  in  278,  to  suffer  from  the  incursions  of  bar- 
barian hordes,  when  it  was  plundered  by  a  mere  handful  of  wan- 
dering Franks.  In  B.C.  27  Sicily  had  become  the  first  of  the  ten 
senatorial  provinces ,  according  to  Augustus's  distribution  of  the 
empire,  and  then  a  province  of  the  diocese  of  Italy,  according  to  the 
arrangement  of  Diocletian  ;  but  in  395  it  was  separated  from  the 
W.  and  attached  to  the  E.  empire,  whereby  it  escaped  the  fate  of 
neither.  In  440  Geiserich  besieged  Palermo  and  conquered  Lily- 
bfeum  (Marsala).  Odoacer  made  himself  master  of  Sicily,  and 
the  island  afterwards  became  subject  to  the  Ostrogoths.  In  535 
Belisarius  brought  it  under  the  sway  of  the  Eastern  emperors,  who 
retained  it  till  its  conquest  by  the  Arabs.  —  The  Romish  church 
had  great  possessions  in  Sicily,  and  Pope  Gregory  I.  was  a  zealous 
promoter  of  the  cultivation  of  the  island.  Constans  II.  even 
transferred  the  seat  of  the  E.  empire  to  Syracuse  in  663,  hut  he 
was  murdered  there  in  668,  and  the  city  was  plundered  hy  the 
Arabs  the  following  year. 

Third  Period.  In  827  the  Saracens,  under  Ased-ibn-Fordt, 
on  the  invitation  of  the  governor  Euphemius,  landed  near  Mazzara. 
Four  years  later  Palermo  fell  into  their  hands  ,  and  that  city  now 
became  the  capital ,  and  swayed  the  destinies  of  the  island.  The 
Saracens,  conquering  one  city  after  another,  overran  the  whole  is- 
land ,  and  in  878  Syracuse  was  taken  by  Ibrahim  -  ibn  -  Ahmed. 
Although  the  Christians  could  now  maintain  themselves  in  the 
N.E.  angle  of  the  island  only,  and  even  there  were  deprived  of 
Taormina  in  902,  and  finally  of  Rametta  in  965,  yet  the  establish- 
ment of  a  lasting  peace  was  rendered  impossible  hy  the  antagonism 
between  their  Arabian  and  Berber  conquerors,  which  continually 
led  to  sanguinary  conflicts.  To  these  evils  were  added  the  changes 
of  dynasty.    At  first  the  Aghlabites  of  Kairvan  ruled.    Then  Sicily 


Historical  Notice.  SICILY.  237 

became  an  independent  emirate  tinder  the  Fatimite  Sovereigns  of 
Egypt.  The  latter  half  of  the  10th  cent,  was  the  most  prosperous 
period  of  Sicily  under  the  Mohammedan  sway.  But  the  sanguinary 
struggles  of  the  Sunnites  and  Shiites  in  Africa,  where  the  Zirites 
had  usurped  the  supremacy,  were  soon  transplanted  hither,  and 
the  insurrection  of  several  cities  accelerated  the  downfall  of  the 
Arabian  dynasty.  In  spite  of  these  unfavourable  circumstances, 
the  prosperity  of  the  island  had  during  this  period  considerably 
increased,  and  agriculture,  industry,  and  commerce  had  progressed 
so  greatly  that  the  Norman  conquerors  found  the  island  a  most 
valuable  acquisition. 

About  the  middle  of  the  11th  cent.,  after  an  ineffectual  at- 
tempt to  conquer  the  island  had  been  made  by  George  Maniaces, 
a  Greek ,  in  1038-41,  Robert  and  Roger  de  Hauteville,  sons  of 
Tancred  of  Hauteville  in  Normandy,  went  to  Italy  on  the  invi- 
tation of  their  elder  brothers ,  who  had  declared  themselves 
Counts  of  Apulia.  Robert,  subsequently  surnamed  Ouiscard,  i.e. 
'the  Shrewd',  compelled  the  pope  to  invest  him  with  the  Duchy 
of  Apulia,  and  then,  after  Ibn-Thimna  of  Syracuse  had  already  in- 
voked his  aid,  proceeded  from  Mileto  with  his  brother  Roger  to  con- 
quer Sicily  in  1061.  The  first  expedition  did  not  immediately 
produce  the  desired  result.  But  ten  years  later  they  returned,  and 
by  1090  the  entire  island  was  subdued.  The  line  of  Robert  Guiscard 
having  become  extinct  in  1 127 ,  the  second  son  of  Roger,  Count 
Roger  II. ,  united  the  whole  of  the  Norman  conquests  under  his 
sceptre,  and  caused  himself  to  be  crowned  as  king  at  Palermo  in 
1130.  During  his  reign  Sicily  prospered,  and  its  fleets  conquered 
the  Arabs  and  the  Greeks,  from  whom  they  wrested  a  portion  of 
ancient  Greece  (Romania).  He  was  succeeded  by  his  second  son 
William  (1154-66),  surnamed  by  the  monkish  and  feudal  chroni- 
clers Hhe  Bad',  who  was  followed  by  his  son  William  II.  ,  'the 
Good'  (d.  1189).  After  the  death  of  the  latter  a  contest  as  to  the 
succession  arose.  William  II.  had  given  his  aunt  Constance, 
daughter  of  Roger,  to  Henry  VI.,  son  of  Frederick  Barbarossa,  in 
marriage,  and  that  monarch  now  laid  claim  to  the  crown.  The  Si- 
cilians ,  however ,  declared  themselves  in  favour  of  Tancred ,  of 
Lecce,  a  natural  son  of  Roger.  On  his  death  shortly  afterwards  he  was 
succeeded  by  his  son  William  III.,  whom  Henry  VI.  had  less  diffi- 
culty in  subduing  (1194).  Henry  did  not  long  enjoy  his  conquest, 
and  died  at  Messina  in  1197.  He  was  succeeded  by  the  Emperor 
Frederick  II.,  as  Frederick  I.  of  Sicily,  whose  exertions  in  behalf 
of  Sicily  have  been  so  highly  extolled  by  posterity.  In  1250-54 
his  second  son  Conrad  occupied  the  throne ;  then  Manfred  until 
the  battle  of  Benevento  in  1266;  and  in  1268  Charles  of  Anjou 
caused  the  last  scion  of  the  Germanic  imperial  house  to  be  exe- 
cuted (see  p.  39). 

Foukth  Pbkiod.     Charles  of  Anjou  and  Provence  maintained 


238  SICILY.  Historical  Notice. 

his  supremacy  in  Sicily,  with  which  he  had  been  invested  by  Pope 
Clement  IV.,  for  but  a  brief  period.  The  massacre  of  the  Sicilian 
Vespers  (1282)  was  an  expiation  of  the  death  of  Conradin.  Messina 
defended  itself  heroically  against  the  attacks  of  Charles ;  and  Peter 
of  Aragon,  son-in-law  of  Manfred,  became  master  of  the  island. 
But  its  decline  dates  from  this  period.  It  was  repeatedly  devastated 
by  the  interminable  wars  with  the  Anjous  of  Naples,  while  the  no- 
bility, such  as  the  Chiaramonte  and  the  Ventimiglia,  attained  to 
such  power  as  to  render  systematic  administration  on  the  part  of 
the  government  impossible.  In  1410,  when  Sicily  became  an  ap- 
panage of  the  kingdoms  of  Naples  and  Spain ,  it  still  retained 
its  freedom  of  internal  administration.  But  this  very  privilege 
proved  prejudicial  to  it,  whilst  its  external  defence  against  the 
barbarians  was  neglected.  During  the  second  half  of  the  18th  cent, 
many  medieval  institutions  were  swept  away  by  the  advance  of  ci- 
vilisation,  and  in  1812  Sicily  was  finally  rescued  from  the  con- 
dition of  a  mediaeval  feudal  state.  In  that  year,  the  Sicilian  Es- 
tates, under  the  influence  of  the  English  general  Lord  William  H. 
C.  Bentinck,  whose  troops  were  then  protecting  the  island  against 
Napoleon,  passed  a  constitution  on  the  English  model.  But  three 
years  later  this  was  again  abn  gated.  The  misrule  of  the  Bourbons, 
and  the  popular  antipathy  to  the  union  with  Naples,  led  to  a  san- 
guinary revolt  on  July  14th,  1820,  which,  however,  was  repressed 
by  the  Neapolitan  generals,  Florestan  Pepe  and  Coletta.  The  oholera 
epidemic,  also,  of  1837,  which  the  people  attributed  to  the  fault  of 
the  government,  was  followed  by  renewed  disturbances.  At  the  re- 
volution of  Jan.  12th,  1848,  Sicily  appointed  a  government  of  its 
own  under  the  noble  Buggiero  Settimo ,  and  maintained  its  inde- 
pendence against  Naples  for  a  year  and  a  half.  Among  the  leaders  of 
the  people  at  this  time  were  the  Marchese  Torrearsa,  Prince  Butera, 
Stabile,  La  Farina,  and  the  brothers  Amari.  In  September  1848, 
however,  Messina  was  laid  partly  in  ruins  by  the  fleet  of  Fer- 
dinand II.  ('Re  Bomba')  ,  in  the  following  April  Catania  was  cap- 
tured, and  in  May  Palermo.  During  these  struggles  the  inspiriting 
idea  of  a  comprehensire  national  unity  had  impressed  itself  on  the 
Sicilians ,  and  when  in  1860  Northern  Italy  became  united  under 
the  house  of  Savoy ,  revolts  once  more  broke  out  in  the  two  chief 
towns  of  the  island.  Garibaldi,  with  1000  volunteers  ('i  mille'), 
landed  in  Sicily  at  Marsala  on  May  11th  1860,  and  after  a  victorious 
battle  at  Calatafimi,  stormed  Palermo  on  May  27th.  In  a  few  weeks 
more  he  was  master  of  the  entire  island ;  and  by  the  plebiscite  of 
October  21st,  1860,  Sicily  joined  the  new  kingdom  of  Italy. 

The  following  is  a  chronological  sketch  of  the  history  of  this 
period  of  six  centuries :  — 

a.   1282-1285.    Peter  of  Aragon,  King  of  Sicily. 
1285-1296.    James  the  Just. 
1296-1337.    Frederick  II. 


Historical  Notice.  SICILY.  239 

1337-1342.    Peter  II.,  co-regent  from  1321. 
1342-1355.   Louis. 

1355-1377.    Frederick  III.  the  Simple,  brother  of  Louis. 
1377-1402.    Mary,   daughter  of  Frederick  III.,  married  in 

1485  to  Martin  of  Aragon. 
1402-1409.    Martin  I.  sole  monarch  of  Sicily ,  married  to 

Bianca  of  Castille. 
1409-1410.    Martin  II.,  father  of  Martin  I. 
1410-1412.   Interregnum. 
6.   1412-1416.    Ferdinand    the   Just,    King   of   Aragon    and 

Castille. 
1416-1458.    Alphonso  the  Generous ,   King  of  Aragon,  and 

after  1442  King  of  Naples. 
1458-1479.    John  of  Aragon  and  Navarre. 
1479-1515.    Ferdinand  II.   the  Catholic,    after  1505    also 

King  of  Naples. 
1515-1554.    Emp.   Charles  V. ;    1517,    Squarcialupo's   re- 
hellion  at  Palermo. 
1554-1598.   Philip  II. 
1598-1621.   Philip  III. 
1621-1665.    Philip  IV. ;     1647,    Revolution   at   Palermo, 

Giuseppe  Alessi. 
1665-1700.    Charles  II. ;    1672-1678,    Messina  revolts  in 

favour  of  Louis  XIV.  of  France. 

c.  1700-1713.    Philip  V.  of  Bourbon,  after  1713  King  of  Spain. 

d.  1713-1720.    Victor  Amadeus  of  Savoy. 

e.  1720-1734.    Emp.  Charles  VI.  of  Germany. 

f.  1734-1759,    Charles  III.  of  Bourbon. 

1759-1825.    Ferdinand  IV.,  King  of  Naples  and  Sicily,  after 

1815  Ferdinand  I.,  King  of  the  Two  Sicilies. 
1825-1830.    Francis  I. 
1830-1859.    Ferdinand  II. 
1848-1849.    Sicily  independent. 
1859-1860.   Francis  II. 

2.  History  of  Civilisation  and  Art. 

Almost  every  one  of  the  numerous  nations  which  in  the  course 
of  centuries  have  inhabited  or  governed  Sicily  has  left  behind  it 
some  trace  of  its  individual  capacity  for  art,  modified,  however,  to 
some  extent  by  the  characteristics  peculiar  to  the  island,  and  there- 
fore in  most  cases  bearing  a  Sicilian  stamp.  Cicero  has  observed 
that  the  Sicilian  is  never  so  miserable  as  to  be  unable  to  utter  a 
bon-mot,  and  a  similar  remark  might  be  made  at  the  present  day. 
The  Sicilians  of  all  ages  have  displayed  marked ,  though  not  bril- 
liant abilities.  Their  wit,  flow  of  conversation,  and  power  of  re- 
partee were  universally  known  to  the  ancients.  It  was  not,  there- 
fore,  the  result  of  mere   chance  that  Greek  comedy  attained  its 


240  SICILY.  History  of  Art. 

earliest  development  here ,  and  that  bucolic  poetry  originated  in 
Sicily,  where  to  this  day  the  natives  delight  in  rural  life.  Sicily 
has  in  all  ages  produced  admirable  speakers ,  although  rather 
sophists  and  phraseologists  than  great  orators.  In  the  study  of  the 
history  of  their  island  the  natives  have  ever  manifested  the  utmost 
zeal,  and  for  the  concrete  sciences  as  far  as  they  are  connected  with 
practical  life,  such  as  mechanics  and  medicine,  they  possess  con- 
siderable aptitude.  In  the  manufacture  of  objects  of  an  artistic 
character  (in  opposition  to  pure  works  of  art) ,  as  in  architecture, 
the  art  of  engraving,  the  composition  of  mosaics,  etc.,  the  Sicilians 
have  from  a  very  early  period  distinguished  themselves.  It  must 
not  be  forgotten,  however,  that  the  Saracenic  supremacy  introduced 
a  new  and  important  element  into  the  national  character,  which 
shows  itself  in  a  vein  of  seriousness ,  foreign  to  the  character  of 
neighbouring  races,  such  as  the  Neapolitans.  The  national  songs, 
for  example  ,    are    strongly    tinctured  with  Oriental  melancholy. 

The  monuments  of  Sikelian  culture  of  the  pre-Hellenic  period 
still  preserved  in  Sicily,  although  far  more  scanty  than  the  Greek, 
merit  a  more  minute  examination  than  has  hitherto  fallen  to  their 
share.  Prehistoric  antiquities  have  recently  been  investigated  in 
several  different  spots ,  and  traces  of  the  flint  period  have  been 
found  in  caverns  and  elsewhere.  The  most  important  antiquities 
of  a  somewhat  later  date  are  :  the  Subterranean  Cities  with  which 
the  S.E.  angle  of  the  island  is  full,  the  so-called  Ddieri  of  Val 
d'Ispica,  Palazzolo,  Pantelica,  etc.,  and  the  Polygonal  Structures 
at  Cefalil  and  on  Alt.  Eryx. 

The  Metopes  of  Selinus,  mementoes  of  the  most  ancient  style, 
form  the  transition  to  the  Hellenic  sculpture.  Some  of  the  most 
magnificent  Greek  temples  still  extant  have  been  erected  in  Sicily  : 
Temple  of  Apollo  at  Selinus  371  ft.  long,  177ft.  broad;  Temple  of 
Zeus  at  Girgenti  356  ft.  long,  174  ft.  broad  (Parthenon  at  Athens 
229  ft.  by  101  ft. ;  Temple  of  Zeus  at  Olympia  233  ft.  by  97  ft. ; 
Temple  of  Apollo  at  Phigalia  195  ft.  by  75  ft. ;  Temple  of  Diana  at 
Ephesus  388  ft.  by  187  ft.).  The  Ruined  Temples  at  Girgenti,  Se- 
gesta,  Selinunto,  and  Syracuse  are  nowhere  surpassed.  The  Theatres 
of  Syracuse,  Taormina,  Segesta,  Tyndaris,  Palazzolo,  and  Catania 
have  indeed  been  modified  by  additions  during  the  Eoman  period, 
but  the  Greek  origin  of  their  foundations  and  arrangements  may 
easily  be  recognised.  The  fortifications  of  the  Epipolae  of  Syracuse 
are  among  the  best  existing  specimens  of  Greek  structures  of  the 
kind.  In  the  province  of  Sculpture  comparatively  few  Greek  works 
have  come  down  to  us.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned  the  more 
recent  metop*  of  Selinus  in  the  museum  at  Palermo ,  and  a  few 
relics  preserved  at  Syracuse.  Of  Bronzes,  in  the  casting  of  which 
Perilaos  of  Agrigentum  is  said  to  have  excelled,  scarcely  a  single 
specimen  has  survived.  On  the  other  hand  a  copious  collection 
of  admirable  ancient    Coins   has    come   down   to    us.     Beautiful 


History  of  Art.  SICILY.  241 

Vases  are  likewise  found  in  almost  every  part  of  the  island.  The 
climax  of  the  prosperity  of  the  Sicilian  Greeks  was  contempo- 
raneous with  that  of  their  mother-country ,  and  not  in  point  of 
architecture  alone.  About  the  year  550,  Stesichorus  of  Himera  per- 
fected the  Greek  chorus  by  the  addition  of  the  epode  to  the  strophe 
and  antistrophe.  Aeschylus  resided  long  in  Sicily  ,  where  he  died 
(456),  and  was  interred  at  Gela.  Pindar  and  Sappho  also  enjoyed 
the  hospitality  of  Sicily,  and  sang  the  praises  of  the  victories 
of  her  sons  at  Olympia.  Simonides  visited  Sicily,  and  composed 
appropriate  lines  for  the  gift  dedicated  to  the  gods  by  Gelon  after 
the  battle  of  Himera  in  480.  Phormis,  an  officer  of  Gelon  at  Syra- 
cuse, who  invented  movable  scenes,  Epicharmus  in  480,  Sophron 
in  460,  and  Xenarchus  ,  the  son  of  the  last ,  distinguished  them- 
selves in  the  composition  of  comedies.  Nothing  is  more  charac- 
ristic  of  the  Sicilian  enthusiasm  for  art  than  the  story  that  the 
Syracusans  once  set  at  liberty  several  Athenian  prisoners,  because 
they  knew  how  to  recite  the  verses  of  Euripides  with  pathos.  Even 
during  the  period  of  decline  the  national  poetical  bias  was  still 
pre-eminent ,  and  gave  birth  to  a  new  description  of  poetry,  the 
idyls,  in  which  their  inventor  Theocritus  of  Syracuse  was  unsur- 
passed ,  and  which  even  in  modern  times  have  found  numerous 
admirers. 

The  Sicilians  have  always  manifested  considerable  capacity  for 
philosophical  research.  Pythagoras  found  followers  here.  Xeno- 
phanes  of  Colophon,  the  founder  of  the  Eleatic  school ,  died  in 
Syracuse  at  an  advanced  age.  A  century  later,  Plato  thrice  visited 
Syracuse.  But  the  most  illustrious  Sicilian  thinker  was  Empedocles 
of  Acragas,  distinguished  as  a  natural  philosopher,  and  also  as  a 
practical  statesman,  physician,  architect,  and  orator.  The  names  of 
a  number  of  eminent  physicians  are  recorded  :  Pausanias,  Aaron 
(5th  cent.  B.C.),  Menecrates  (4th  cent.  B.C.),  and  Celsus  (but  the 
last,  born  at  Centuripae,  is  not  to  be  confounded  with  his  famous 
namesake  who  lived  in  the  reign  of  Augustus).  Distinguished  histo- 
rians were :  Antiochus,  Philistus  of  Syracuse ,  Timaeus  of  Taor- 
mina,  Dicaearehus  of  Messana,  and  the  learned  Diodorus  (Siculus) 
of  Agyrium,  who  wrote  his  celebrated  Bibliotheca  Historica  in  the 
reign  of  Augustus.  The  most  brilliant  of  the  numerous  orators 
were  Corax  and  Tisias,  the  teacher  of  Isocrates,  Gorgias,  and  Lysias. 
Oorgias,  the  celebrated  sophist  and  orator,  was  a  native  of  Leon- 
tinoi,  and  Lysias  was  the  son  of  a  Syracusan.  Among  the  mathe- 
maticians and  mechanicians  Archimedes  was  the  most  distinguished. 
Hicetas  of  Syracuse  was  one  of  the  first  who  taught  that  the  earth 
moved  and  the  sun  remained  stationary. 

The  Roman-Byzantine  Supremacy  gave  the  death-blow  to  the 
intellectual  progress  of  the  Sicilians.  The  soldier  who  slew  Archi- 
medes may  be  regarded  as  symbolical  of  this  epoch.  In  accordance 
with  the  Roman  custom,  however,  numerous  magnificent  amphi- 

Baedekek.     Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  16 


242  SICILY.  History  of  Art. 

theatres,  theatres,  and  aqueducts  were  constructed  during  this 
period.  The  rapacity  of  Verres  and  other  governors  despoiled  the 
island  of  countless  treasures  of  art.  The  Christians  used  many  of  the 
ancient  temples  and  tombs  for  sacred  purposes.  A  single  Byzantine 
church  of  small  dimensions  near  Malvagna  alone  remains  from  this 
period.  A  proof  of  the  abject  condition  to  which  Sicily  had  sunk 
is  found  in  the  circumstance  that  down  to  a  late  period  of  the  Mus- 
lim supremacy  not  a  single  author  of  eminence  arose,  although 
crowds  of  monks  and  priests  resided  in  the  island.  Theophanes 
Cerameus  and  Petrus  Siculus ,  the  historian  of  the  Manichseans, 
alone  deserve  mention.  The  wandering  San  Simeon  of  Syracuse 
died  at  Treves. 

The  Arabs  were  the  first  to  infuse  new  life  into  the  island. 
They  not  only  enriched  the  architectural  art  with  new  forms  of 
construction,  as  mentioned  below,  but  they  also  inaugurated  a 
new  era  in  the  writing  of  history  and  geography,  and  under  King 
Roger  II.  the  first  mediaeval  geographer  Edrisi  completed  his  great 
work  (Nushat-ul-Mushtak).  Among  the  Mohammedan  Kasides 
(poets)  Ibn-Hamdis  was  the  most  distinguished.  Art  developed 
itself  to  a  still  greater  extent  under  the  Norman  rule,  and  the 
princes  and  great  men  of  that  race  have  perpetuated  their  names 
by  the  erection  of  numerous  cathedrals.  The  importance  they  at- 
tached to  learning  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  they  were  in  the  habit 
of  summoning  the  most  learned  men  of  the  East  (e.  g.  Petrus 
Blesensis)  to  instruct  their  young  princes.  Whilst  the  Arabs  de- 
serve commendation  for  the  introduction  of  the  most  valuable  com- 
mercial products  (grain,  cotton,  sumach,  etc.)  which  the  island 
possesses,  the  Norman  princes  established  the  manufacture  of  silk; 
and  a  school  for  the  arts  of  weaving  and  the  composition  of  mosaic 
was  maintained  in  the  royal  palace.  The  brilliant  reign  of  Fred- 
erick II.,  his  legislative  merits,  and  his  zealous  promotion  of 
every  art  and  science  are  well  known.  At  his  court  at  Palermo  the 
Italian  language  developed  itself  so  as  to  become  a  written  language, 
and  his  counsellors,  his  sons  ,  and  even  he  himself  made  the  first 
attempts  at  Italian  poetry.  Of  Frederick  II.,  Manfred,  Enzius, 
Ciullo  of  Alcamo,  Peter  de  Vineis,  Quido  delle  Colonne,  Jacopo  da 
Lentini,  etc.,  poems  are  still  preserved  to  us.  But  this  golden  age 
was  of  brief  duration.  Amid  the  vicissitudes  of  subsequent  cen- 
turies all  intellectual  superiority  became  extinct.  Even  the 
chroniclers  manifest  distinct  traces  of  this  degeneracy.  "Whilst 
well-written  and  interesting  chronicles  of  Sicily  were  composed  in 
the  13th  century  {Hugo  Falcandus ,  Bartholomew  of  Neocastro. 
etc.),  those  of  a  later  period  are  often  unreadable.  The  revival  of 
classical  studies,  however,  at  length  roused  literature  from  its  inert 
condition.  At  the  close  of  the  15th  cent.  Messina  distinguished 
itself  by  its  promotion  of  Greek  studies,  and  Constantine  Lascaris 
taught  there.     The  following  century  produced  the  learned  and 


History  of  Art.  SICILY.  243 

indefatigable  Thomas  Fazello  of  Sciacca  (d.  1570),  the  originator 
of  Sicilian  history  and  topography.  His  work  was  completed  by 
the  historian  Maurolycus  of  Messina. 

The  enlightened  absolutism  of  the  Bourbons  during  the  last 
century  tended  to  promote  the  progress  of  science  in  Sicily, 
although  the  attention  of  scholars  was  principally  directed  to  ar- 
chaeological research  relating  to  the  history  of  the  island.  The 
wealthier  of  the  nobility  and  the  clergy  eagerly  took  part  in  the 
revival.  The  art  of  poetry  also  revived,  and  found  its  most  talented 
representative  in  Giovanni  Meli  of  Palermo  (d.  1815).  His  ana- 
creontic songs  in  the  national  dialect  were  universally  popular  even 
before  they  appeared  in  a  printed  form. 

In  the  history  of  music  Sicily  is  represented  by  Bellini  (b.  at 
Catania  1802,  d.  at  Paris  1835). 


"With  regard  to  ancient  art  in  Sicily ,  and  particularly  the 
sculptures  of  Selinunto,  see  p.  xxix  et  seq.  We  may  now  add  a  few 
remarks  upon  the  principal  mediaeval  and  modern  monuments  of  art. 

Architecture.  The  mediaeval  architecture  of  Sicily,  and  par- 
ticularly that  of  Palermo,  bears  the  impress  of  the  political  desti- 
nies of  the  country  in  a  very  striking  degree,  showing  the  change 
from  the  Byzantine  to  the  Arabian  domination,  and  from  the  latter 
to  the  supremacy  of  the  Normans.  The  style  is  accordingly  of  a  very 
mixed  character,  which  strict  connoisseurs  will  not  fail  to  censure, 
but  it  possesses  great  attractions  for  the  less  scientific  lover  of  art. 
The  leading  element  is  the  Arabian.  After  the  overthrow  of  the 
Arabian  supremacy  the  more  refined  culture  of  that  race  left  its 
mark  on  the  island,  and  the  Norman  princes  found  it  desirable  to 
avail  themselves  of  its  services  in  the  administration  of  the  country 
and  particularly  in  the  province  of  art.  The  Arabian  culture, 
however ,  was  in  its  turn  considerably  swayed  by  Byzantine  in- 
fluences, and  it  is  therefore  not  surprising  that  these  again  should 
be  reflected  in  the  Sicilian  architecture  of  the  12th  century.  The 
ground-plan  of  many  of  the  churches  of  Palermo  is  traceable  to 
Byzantine  originals ,  viz.  a  square  space  enclosed  by  four  pillars 
and  covered  with  a  dome.  It  is  uncertain  whether  this  form  was 
introduced  direct  from  Byzantium  after  the  final  triumph  of  Chris- 
tian culture,  or  whether  the  Arabs  had  already  employed  it  in  the 
construction  of  their  numerous  little  oratories  (of  which  Ibn  Hau- 
kal,  an  Arabian  traveller  of  the  10th  cent.,  says  that  there  were 
200  at  Palermo  alone) ,  and  handed  it  down  to  their  Norman  suc- 
cessors. The  latter  alternative ,  however ,  is  the  more  probable. 
While  the  plan  of  many  churches,  such  as  Martorana,  S.  Cataldo, 
and  8.  Antonio  at  Palermo  is  Byzantine,  and  that  of  others,  like 
Monreale,  S.  Spirito  and  several  abbey-churches  at  Palermo,  and 
the  cathedral  at  Cefaiii,  is  Romanesque,  the  universally  prevalent 
pointed  arch  is  of  Arabian  origin,    and   quite   distinct   from  the 

16* 


244  SICILY.  History  of  Art. 

Gothic  form.  The  Arabs  brought  it  from  Egypt  and  used  it  in  all 
their  buildings,  and  they  also  derived  thence  the  custom  of  adorn- 
ing their  flat  ceilings  with  pendentives,  resembling  stalactites,  and 
their  friezes  with  inscriptions.  While  the  ecclesiastical  architecture 
of  Sicily  was  thus  unable  to  resist  the  Arabian  influence ,  that  of 
her  palaces  still  possesses  a  distinctly  Arabian  character,  cor- 
responding with  the  Oriental  complexion  of  the  Norman  court.  Of 
the  numerous  palaces  which  are  said  to  have  encircled  Palermo  in 
the  12th  cent.,  we  now  possess  imperfect  examples  only  in  the 
Zisa  and  the  Cuba  (and  in  the  relics  of  the  chateaux  of  Mimner- 
mum  at  Altarello  di  Baida  and  Favara  at  Mare  Dolce),  so  that  it 
requires  a  considerable  effort  of  imagination  picture  their  to  vaunted 
magnificence.  Sicily  possesses  no  Gothic  churches  of  any  note  (S. 
Francesco  and  S.  Agostino  at  Palermo,  and  the  cathedral  at  Mes- 
sina'), but  it  is  curious  to  observe  how  tenaciously  her  architects 
clung  to  Gothic  and  other  mediaeval  forms  down  to  a  late  period  in 
the  Renaissance  epoch.  Of  the  later  mediaeval  secular  architecture 
we  find  many  pleasing  examples,  especially  at  Palermo.  In  the 
17th  cent,  numerous  edifices  in  the  'baroque'  style  were  erected 
on  a  very  extensive  scale ,  but  characterised  by  an  only  too  florid 
richness  of  decorative  detail. 

Sculptubjb.  In  the  plastic  art,  in  so  far  as  it  rises  above  a 
merely  decorative  purpose,  mediaeval  Sicily  attained  little  pro- 
ficiency. The  principal  works  in  bronze  (the  gates  at  Monreale) 
are  not  the  work  of  native  masters.  Sculpturing  in  marble  for  de- 
corative purposes,  on  the  other  hand,  was  extensively  and  success- 
fully practised  here  at  an  early  period.  The  capitals  and  several 
shafts  of  columns  in  the  monastery-court  of  Monreale  are  among 
the  finest  works  of  the  kind  in  Italy.  The  early  Sicilian  Wood 
Carving,  sometimes  adorned  with  arabesques,  which  is  still  fre- 
quently met  with  (as  at  the  Martorana),  is  of  remarkably  fine  exe- 
cution. Another  proof  of  the  great  skill  of  the  Sicilian  artificers  is 
afforded  by  the  Porphyry  Sarcophagi  of  the  Norman  princes  and 
German  emperors  in  the  cathedral  at  Palermo,  and  by  the  numerous 
Marble  Incrustations  and  Marble  Mosaics  of  the  12th  century.  The 
mural  covering  of  the  Cappella  Palatina  and  the  Martorana,  and 
the  mosaic  decorations  of  the  monastery  court  of  Monreale  will  bear 
favourable  comparison  with  the  finest  works  of  the  Roman  sculptors 
in  marble  and  the  members  of  the  Cosmas  school.  Mosaic  painting 
was  also  highly  developed  in  the  12th  century.  The  mosaics  in 
the  cathedral  at  Cefalu  and  in  the  Cappella  Palatina,  and  those  in 
the  Martorana  and  at  Monreale ,  which  have  been  preserved  from 
decay  by  repeated  restorations,  are  not  all  of  uniform  value,  but 
even  those  which  show  less  vigour  of  conception  display  the  bold- 
ness of  touch  and  finish  of  execution  peculiar  to  able  and  ex- 
perienced masters.  As  such  artificers  cannot  possibly  have  sprung 
up  under  Arabian  rule  ,    we  must   assume   that  the  earlier  of  the 


History  of  Art.  SICILY.  245 

works  to  which  we  have  referred  were  executed  by  Byzantine  artists 
invited  to  Sicily  from  foreign  countries ,  and  that  these  masters 
then  transmitted  their  art  to  native  successors.  At  a  later  period, 
after  the  extinction  of  the  Norman  princes,  Sicilian  art  fell  far  be- 
hind that  of  the  mainland.  Even  during  the  Renaissance  period 
Sicily  made  no  independent  exertion,  her  cultivation  of  art  being 
but  a  slow  and  hesitating  adoption  of  that  of  Rome  and  Naples. 
It  must,  however,  be  borne  in  mind,  that  the  existing  sculptures 
of  Sicily  are  as  yet  by  no  means  fully  known.  The  most  famous 
name  connected  with  Renaissance  sculpture  at  Palermo  is  that  of 
Qagini.  For  three  generations  the  Gagini's  were  sculptors  in 
marble.  Antonio  Oagini,  born  in  1480 ,  was  the  son  of  a  Lombard 
sculptor,  and  to  him  and  his  sons  are  referred  all  the  finest  works 
in  marble  of  the  16th  cent,  at  Palermo.  At  a  later  period  Oiacomo 
Serpotta  (1655-1732),  a  successor  of  Bernini,  and  a  forerunner  of 
the  rococo  school,  executed  at  Palermo  numerous  works  in  stucco, 
of  distinct,   though  perhaps  somewhat  affected,   grace. 

Painting.  The  history  of  this  art  in  Sicily,  although  it  has 
been  the  object  of  zealous  local  research,  has  not  yet  been  placed 
on  a  satisfactory  critical  basis.  In  the  15th  cent.,  however,  the 
island  produced  several  painters  of  considerable  eminence ,  the 
most  frequently  named  of  whom  is  Antonio  Crescenzio  ,  although 
only  the  St.  Cecilia  in  the  cathedral  at  Palermo  (p.  253)  can  be 
assigned  to  him  with  certainty.  His  claim  to  be  the  artist  of  the 
striking  'Triumph  of  Death'  in  the  Palazzo  Sclafani  (p.  252)  rests  on 
very  uncertain  grounds  ;  but  he  perhaps  may  be  credited  with  the 
mural  designs  in  a  lateral  chapel  of  S.  Slaria  di  Gesu  (p.  273)  which 
forcibly  recall  the  Florentine  compositions  of  the  15th  century. 
His  pupil  Tommaso  di  Vigilia  and  Pietro  Euzulone  are  painters 
of  mediocre  rank.  The  most  distinguished  Sicilian  painter  of  the 
15th  cent,  was  Antonello  da  Messina,  but  the  only  authentic  works 
by  him  now'in  Sicily  are  five  or  six  in  his  native  town  (p.  318).  This 
master  must  not  be  confounded  with  his  less  distinguished  con- 
temporary Antonello  da  Saliba,  several  pictures  by  whom  are  still 
preserved  at  Palermo.  Of  the  artists  of  Palermo  in  the  16th 
cent,  the  most  famous  was  Vincenzo  di  Paoia,  surnamed  Aine- 
molo,  who  is  also  known  as  Vincenzo  il  Romano,  and  is  said  .to 
have  been  a  pupil  of  Polidoro  Caldara.  Most  of  the  churches 
of  Palermo  boast  of  works  by  this  master,  who  would  there- 
fore seem  to  have  been  very  prolific;  but  as  the  works  attrib- 
uted to  him  are  of  very  unequal  merit,  many  of  them  are  probably 
by  a  different  hand,  while  others  are  partly  by  his  pupils.  His 
labours  extended  down  to  the  year  1542.  His  finest  works  are  the 
Ascension  and  the  Descent  from  the  Cross  in  the  Museum,  and 
a  rich  composition  in  a  side-chapel  to  the  left  in  S.Domenico.  To 
the  17th  cent,  belongs  Pietro  Novelli  (1603-47),  surnamed  'Mon- 
realese',  a  master  of  considerable  originality,  and  a  follower  of  the 


246    Route  23.  PALERMO. 

Neapolitan  school,  to  which  he  owes  his -rigorous  colouring  and  his 
strongly  individualised  heads.  Besides  his  works  at  Palermo,  there 
is  an  interesting  work  by  this  master  in  the  staircase  at  Monreale 
(St.  Benedict  and  his  successors).  Several  of  his  monkish  figures 
are  among  the  finest  works  produced  by  the  Italian  naturalists. 
Palermo  followed  the  degraded  styles  of  the  18th  cent.,  the  proofs 
of  which  are  too  numerous  to  require  enumeration. 


23.  Palermo. 

Arrival.  By  Sea.  Travellers  are  conveyed  to  the  Dogana  (PI.  H,  7; 
1  fr.  for  each  pers.  with  luggage,  60  c.  without),  where  luggage  is  slightly 
examined.  Thence  to  the  town  about  HI.;  cab  with  luggage  IV2  fr.,  in- 
cluding a  gratuity.  Omnibuses  from  several  of  the  hotels  await  the  arrival 
of  the  steamboats.  —  The  main  Railwai  Station  is  in  the  Via  Lincoln, 
outside  the  Porta  S.  Antonino  (PI.  A,  B,  4) ;  that  of  the  W.  Railway  (R.  25j 
in  the  Via  Lolli  (PI.  G,  1);  and  that  of  the  local  railway  to  Corleone  (p. 
289)  in  S.  Erasmo,  at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  Marina  (PI.  A,  5,  6).  Cabs,  see 
p.  247. 

Hotels.  (If  a  stay  of  any  length  is  made,  charges  had  better  be  asked 
beforehand.)  *  Hotel  des  Palmes  (PI.  b;  F,  4),  in  the  Via  Stabile,  with 
beautiful  garden,  R.  3-7,  L.  1,  A.  1,  B.  I1/2,  dej.  3V2,  D.  5,  pens.  10-15, 
omn.  l'/2  fr. ;  'Trinacria  (PI.  a;  C,  6),  with  a  fine  view  of  the  Marina, 
entered  from  the  Via  Butera,  R.  from  3,  L.  »/4,  A.  3/4,  B.  I1/2,  dej.  3-31, 2, 
D.  5,  incl.  wine  6,  pens.  10-15,  omn.  li/2  fr.;  "Grand  Hotel  de  la  Paix,  Via 
della  Liberta,  opposite  the  Giardino  Inglese  (p.  260),  opened  in  1801,  well 
fitted  up,  pens,  from  10  fr.;  "Hotel  de  France  (PI.  c;  C,  5),  in  a  healthy 
situation,  frequented  by  natives  and  foreigners,  R.  3-5,  L.  8/4,  A.  3/4,  B.  H/2, 
dej.  3,  D.  4,  pens.  10-13,  omn.  llfa  fr.  —  Second-class:  Albergo  Centrale 
(PI.  e ;  D,  3),  with  trattoria,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  355,  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  close  to  the  Quattro  Canti,  R.  from  2'/2,  dej.  l]/2-2,  D.  372-4,  pension 
incl.  wine  10  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  Oliva  (PL  f ;  F,  3),  Piazza  Oliva  22, 
R.  2,  L.  1/2,  A.  1/2,  B.  1,  dej.  21/2,  D.  31/2  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  (L.  extra) 
8  fr. ;  Italia  (PI.  d ;  C,  5),  Piazza  Marina  60,  near  the  Giardino  Garibaldi, 
R.  2-2'/2,  pens.  6-7  fr.,  cuisine  mediocre;  Rebecchino  (PI.  h;  O,  2),  Via 
Vitt.  Emanuele,  opposite  the  cathedral,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2]/2-5,  pens,  from  6, 
omn.  1  fr. ;  Albergo  al  Pizzdto  (PI.  g;  D,  4),  Via  Bandiera  30,  near  the 
Piazza  S.  Domenico  ;  Albergo  Aragona,  Via  Alloro  90;  etc. 

Pensions  (all  well  spoken  of).  Pens.  Anglaise  (Mrs.  Artand),  Via 
Principe  Scordia  (PI.  E,  F,  G,  4),  Casa  Piazza,  3rd  floor,  pens,  from  7  fr. ; 
Pens.  JenischeJc,  Via  Bandiera  69,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2-3,  B.  1/2,  dej.  l'/2,  D.  2'/2 
(both  incl.  wine),  pens.  6-7,  without  dej.  5-6  fr. ;  Pens.  Suisse,  Via  Vitt. 
Emanuele  1S7,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2>/2,  B.  %,  dej.  1  fr.  90  c,  D.  3  (both  incl. 
wine),  pens.  6,  for  a  long  stay,  5  fr.;  Pens.  Tersenghi,  Via  Lincoln  55, 
R.  1-2,  pens.  5  fr. 

Furnished  Apartments ,  generally  indicated  by  placards ,  are  now 
easily  obtained  in  Palermo ,  but  are  usually  somewhat  deficient  in 
the  comforts  desirable  for  a  winter  residence  and  not  all  at  suited  for 
solitary  invalids.  There  is  a  scarcity  of  single  rooms  to  let.  In  the 
town  the  Piazza  Marina  (PI.  C,  5) ,  the  Piazza  Bologni  (PI.  c,  3) ,  and 
the  Piazza  Vittorio  (PI.  C,  2)  may  be  recommended,  the  houses  outside 
the  town  less  so.  Invalids  should  avoid  rooms  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cala. 
The  price  of  a  furnished  room  in  the  town  is  30-70  fr.  ,  that  of  a  small 
furnished  utage  outside  the  town  about  100  fr.  a  month.  Some  of  the  pri- 
vate villas  in  the  Olivuzza  (PI.  F,  G,  1)  and  the  Giardino  Inglese  (PI.  H 
I,  4)  are  also  let  in  whole  or  in  part,  but  in  general  at  high  rents  and'  not 
to  pulmonary  patients.  The  smallest  details  should  be  inserted  in  the  con- 
tract, and  the  apartments  should  be  carefully  inspected  before  taking  posses- 


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Tramways.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.    247 

sion.  Marchese  Milo,  Corso  Calatafimi  55 ,  Piazza  dell'  Indipendenza,  is  a 
trustworthy  house-agent.  The  hirer  of  furnished  lodgings  will  find  some 
difficulty  in  procuring  suitable  provisions ,  and  also  some  inconvenience 
in  the  fact  that  the  Sicilian  servants  can  rarely  speak  Italian. 

Trattorie  (p.  xx).  "Stella  Americana,  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele  178,  good 
cuisine;  "Cafi  Orelo,  at  the  corner  of  the  Piazza  Marina  and  the  Via  Vitt. 
Emanuele;  "Cafi-Restaurant  Lincoln,  opposite;  "Progresso,  Via  Vitt.  Ema- 
nuele 311;  Rebecchino,  seep.  246.  —  Cafes  (almost  empty  in  the  morning), 
in  the  above  trattorie;  also:  Cafi  Trinacria,  Quattro  Canti  di  Campagna 
(PI.  F,  3,  4);  Cafe  of  the  Teatro  Bellini,  Piazza  della  Martorana  (good  ices 
at  both);  Caffe  del  Foro  Ttalico,  on  the  Marina,  with  sea-view  (open  May 
to  Oct.  only).  —  Confectioners  ('Pasticceria') :  "Gull,  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele 
101-107;  'CaMscIi,  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele  180  and  Via  Macqueda  292  (good 
preserved  fruit  at  both).  —  Beer  at  CafliscWs,  see  above ;  Cafe"  Trinacria, 
see  above;  Birreria  Barander,  in  the  court  of  the  Albergo  Centrale 
(see  p.  246). 

The  Casino  Tfvovo,  or  new  club,  in  the  Palazzo  Oeraci  in  the  Via  Vitt. 
Emanuele  (p.  25G),  contains  handsome  apartments,  and  is  worth  visiting ; 
strangers  may  easily  obtain  an  introduction  for  a  fortnight ;  ticket  for  a 
longer  period  10  fr.  per  month. 

Carriages.     Tariff  for  1-4  persons :  —  One-h.     Two-h. 

Drive  within   the   town-walls,   including  the  Piazza  S. 
Francesco  di  Paola,    Piazza  Ruggero  Settimo,    Corso 

Scina  and  Via  Borgo 0.  60        0. 80 

Drive  within  the  suburbs,  including  the  harbour  and  the 
station  if  not  more  than  •/«  hr 1-  —         1.  50 

Small  articles  free.     One  box  20,  two  boxes  30  c. 

First  hour 1.  80  2.  20 

Each  additional  hour 1.  60        2.  — 

After  midnight  these  charges  are  raised  by  one-half.  Driving  in  the 
town  is  prohibited  on  Good  Friday.    Longer   drives  according  to  bargain. 

Tramways.  Four  lines  start  from  the  Piazza  Marina  (PI.  C,  5),  the 
two  first  of  which  diverge  from  each  other  at  the  Porta  S.  Giorgio 
(PI.  E,  5):  1.  To  Acqnasanta,  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Pellegrino  (PI.  H, 
5,  6,  7;  I,  7),  20  c,  to  the  Piazza  Ucciardone  (PI.  G,  H,  5),  10  c.  —  2.  To 
Noce,  at  the  end  of  the  Corso  Olivuzza  (PI.  E,  5-2 ;  F,  1)  20  c,  to  Porta 
Carini  (PI.  E,  2,  3),  15  c.  —  3.  To  Romagnolo ,  on  the  high-road  to 
Bagheria  (p.  275)  20  c.  —  4.  Through  the  Via  Lincoln  and  Corso  Tuckery  to 
the  Piazza  deW  Indipendenza  (PI.  C,  5,  6;  B,  6-1;  C,  1),  where  this  line 
unites  with  the  two  following  (15  c).  —  A  fifth  line  leads  from  the  Piazza 
Bologni  (PI.  C,  3)  through  the  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele,  and  on  to  the  S.W.  to 
La  Rocca,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  Monreale  (comp.  PI.  D,  3-1),  20  c,  to 
the  Cappuccini  (p.  270)  15  c.  —  A  sixth  line  runs  from  the  Piazza  deW 
Indipendenza  (PI.  C,  1)  to  the  Via  Sampolo,  to  the  entrance  of  the  Favorita 
(PI.  H,  I,  5)  20  c,  to  the  Piazza  Ucciardone  (PI.  G,  H,  5)  15  c. 

Omnibuses.  1.  Along  the  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele  (PI.  C,  D,  2-6),  10  c.  — 
2.  From  the  Main  Railway  Station  through  the  Via  Macqueda  to  the  Giar- 
dino  Inglese  (PI.  A,  4;  B-I,  3,  4)  and  on  to  5.  Lorenzo  (p.  269).  —  3.  From 
the  Piazza  Marina  (PI.  C,  5)  to  the  West  Station,  in  the  Via  Lolli  (PI. 
G,  1),  10  c.  —  4.  From  the  Porta  Garibaldi  (PI.  B,  4)  to  Castellammarc 
(PI.  E,  5)  and  the  Molo  (PI.  G,  5).  —  5.  From  the  Piazza  Bologni  (PI.  C,  3) 
via,  the  Porta  S.  Giorgio  (PI.  E,  5)  to  Falde  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Pellegrino 
(p.  268),  20  c.  —  6.  From  the  Piazza  Indipendenza  (PI.  C,  1),  instead  of  the 
tramway  suspended  at  present,  by  the  Strada  Pisani  (C,  1)  to  Porrazzi,  on 
the  high-road  to  Parco,  about  l1/*  M.  from  the  town  (comp.  p.  273);  10  c 

Baths.  Via  Quattro  Aprile  7,  near  the  Piazza  Marina,  clean;  cold  bath 
1  fr.,  warm  bath  1  fr.  25  c. ,  Russian  bath  for  1-2  pers.  5  fr. ;  Francesco 
Sutone's ,  Porto  Salvo  11-13 ,  bath  1  fr.  —  Sea  Baths  in  the  Stradone  del 
Borgo  (PI.  F,  5),  and  near  Acquasanta  (PI.  I,  7),  from  June  to  September. 
Swimmers  will  probably  prefer  to  bathe  early  in  the  morning  from  a  boat, 
which  they  may  hire  0/2  fr.)  at  the  Sanita,  outside  the  Porta  Felice. 


248    Route  23.  PALERMO.  Theatres. 

Post  Office,  on  the  E.  side  of  Piazza  Bologni  (PI.  88;  C,  3);  branch- 
offices  in  the  Palazzo  delle  Finanze  (PI.  85;  D,  5)  and  in  the  Via  Molo, 
opposite  the  Dogana  (PI.  H,  7). 

Telegraph  Office,  Via  Macqueda  222,  not  far  from  the  Quattro  Canti 
(to  the  left  in  going  thence  to  the  Porta  Macqueda). 

Steamhoat  Office.  Societd  Florio-Rubattino,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  96, 
at  the  corner  of  the  Piazza  Marina. 

Booksellers.  Carlo  Clausen  ('Libreria  Internazionale'),  Via  Vittorio 
Emanuele  360,  at  the  corner  of  the  Piazza  Bologni,  with  a  circulating 
library  ('biblioteca  circolante' ;  information  of  all  kinds  given  to  travellers). 

—  Second-hand  books :  Giovanni  Fiorenza,  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele  365,  near 
the  Quattro  Canti,  in  the  direction  of  the  Piazza  Vittoria ;  Costa,  Via  Mac- 
queda 224.  —  Music:  Luigi  Sandron,  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele  381;  Ricordi, 
same  street  No.  224.  —  Newspaper:  Giornale  di  Sicilia  (5  c).  —  Photo- 
graphs: Sommer,  Porcasi,  Incorpora,  adjoining  each  other  in  the  Via  Vit- 
torio Emanuele,  near  the  Piazza  S.  Spirito  (PL  C,  6).  —  Watchmaker: 
Zollikofer,  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele  142. 

Teachers  of  Italian.  Signor  Mastropasqua,  professor  in  the  Istituto 
Tecnico ;  Signora  Bonafede. 

Bankers.  Ingham  &  Whitaker,  Via  Lampedusa ;  Morrison  &  Co.,  Piazza 
Marina ;  Wedekind,  Pal.  Cattolica,  Via  Cintorinai  48.  Money  Changers :  Gio. 
Yaldes,  Via  Vitt.  Em.  104,  and  others  in  the  same  street. 

Guide:  Francesco  Sutone,  see  p.  247.  In  the  town  6  fr.  per  day;  out- 
side 10  fr. ,  incl.  provisions,  but  excl.  railway -fares.  Sutone  also  pro- 
cures lodgings. 

Goods  Agents.  Miiller  &  Guldi,  Piazza  Marina  79;  Trifonio  Medici 
Piazza  Marina.  •  ' 

Health  (comp.  also  p.  232).  Precautions  should  be  taken  against  ill- 
nesses of  a  gastric  nature  by  proper  attention  to  clothing  and  diet.  Sitting 
in  the  open  air  is  rendered  dangerous  in  some  parts  of  the  town  by  the 
dampness  of  the  ground.  The  drinking-water  of  Palermo  should  be  used 
with  some  caution;  when  there  is  any  tendency  to  diarrhoea,  it  should 
be  drunk  mixed  with  red  wine,  or  in  the  form  of  weak  tea.  A  new 
water-supply  is  projected.  Diseases  of  the  eye  are  very  common,  but  the 
blinding  .glare  of  the  sun  may  be  neutralised  by  the  us.e  of  umbrellas  and 
spectacles  of  coloured  glass. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Berlin,  Via  Patuano  12  (PI.  E,  5) ;  Dr.  Stobwasser,  Hotel 
des  Palmes.  —  Chemists.  English,  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele  27 ;  Caputo,  Via  Vitt. 
Emanuele  95 ;  Farmacia  Internazionale  (Misuraca),  Via  Borgo  292;  Candela, 
Pal.  Briuceia,  Via  Cintorinai. 

Theatres.  Teatro  Bellini  (PI.  95;  C,  4),  Piazza  della  Martorana;  Poli- 
teama  Garibaldi,  Piazza  Ruggero  Settimo  (PI.  F,  4;  p.  260);  S.  Cecilia  (PI. 
96 ;  C,  4) ,  Via  Santa  Cecilia ;  Garibaldi,  Via  Castrofilippo,  the  last  two 
second-rate  houses  with  popular  performances. 

Consuls.  American:  Mr.  Horace  C.  Pugh;  Vice-consul,  Mr.  C.  J.  La- 
id. —  British:  Mr.  B.  L.  Dupuis;  Vice-consul,  Mr.  J.  H.  Townsey. 

English  Church  (of  the  Holy  Cross),  Via  Stabile,  opposite  the  Hotel 
des  Palmes ;  services  at  11  a.m.  and  7  p.m. ;  chaplain,  Rev.  Dr.  Dixon,  Pal. 
Barbaro,  Via  Emerico  Amari.  —  Presbyterian  Service,  Via  del  Bosco  73.  — 
Italian  Free  Church,  Pal.  Campofranco,  Piazza  Croce  de'  Vespri ;  Italian 
Methodists,  Pal.  Raffadali;   Waldensian  Church,  Pal.  Cuto,  Via  Macqueda  36. 

—  British  Sailors'1  Rest,  Via  Borgo  380. 

Attractions.  During  a  stay  of  four  days  at  Palermo  the  traveller 
should  visit :  —  1st  Day.  S.  Giovanni  degli  Eremiti  (p.  252),  the  Eoyal  Palace 
with  the  "Cappella  Palatina  (p.  250),  the  'Cathedral  (p.  253),  and  La  Zisa 
(p.  267)  in  the  forenoon  ;  "Monte  Pellegrino  (p.  268)  in  the  afternoon.  —  2nd 
Day.  Oratorio  del  S.  Rosario  (p.  267),  S.  Domenico  (p.  266),  and  the  "Mu- 
seum (p.  260)  in  the  forenoon;  Monreale  (p.  271)  and  "Villa  Tasca  (p.  271), 
and  perhaps  also  S.  Martino,  in  the  afternoon.  —  3rd  Day.  "S.  Maria  di  Gesii 
(p.  273),  S.  Cataldo,  and  Martorana  (P-  255)  in  the  forenoon;  Acquasanta 
and  ,:  Villa  Belmonte  (p.  268),  or  La  Favorita  (p.  269)  and  back  by  omnibus 


History.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.    249 

from  S.  Lorenzo  to  the  Giardino  Inglese  (p.  260)  in  the  afternoon;  the 
Marina  (p.  259)  and  the  Villa  Giulia  (p.  259)  in  the  evening.  —  4th  Day. 
Excursion  to  Bagheria  and  *Soluntum  (p.  275);  thence  drive  to  Cefalu  or 
Girgenti.  —  The  beautiful  public  and  private  Gardens  in  Palermo  and 
its  environs  add  greatly  to  its  charm  as  a  residence.  Admission  to  the 
finest  of  the  latter  is  generally  obtainable  by  the  payment  of  a  small  fee. 
Travellers  should  spend  perhaps  half  of  the  time  at  their  disposal  on  the 
gardens  and  excursions. 

The  Festival  of  St.  Rosalia  (p.  269),  ll-15th  July,  is  accompanied  with 
horse-races,  regattas,  illuminations,  etc.  The  annual  processsion  to  the 
chapel  of  the  saint  takes  place  in  September. 

Palermo,  the  capital  of  Sicily,  with.  267,000  inhab.,  is  the  mili- 
tary, judicial,  and  ecclesiastical  headquarters  of  the  island,  and 
possesses  one  of  the  seven  principal  Italian  universities.  It  lies  in 
38°  6'  44"  N.  latitude,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Bay  of  Palermo,  which 
opens  towards  the  E.,  and  is  enclosed  by  the  fertile  plain  of  the 
Conca  d'Oro,  beyond  which  rises  an  amphitheatre  of  imposing 
mountains.  On  the  N.  the  city  is  sheltered  by  the  finely  shaped 
Monte  Pellegrino,  opposite  which,  on  the  E.,  lies  the  Monte  Catal- 
fano.  Palermo  is  justly  entitled  to  the  epithet  'lafelice',  on  account 
of  its  magnificent  situation  and  delightful  climate.  The  town  is  on 
the  whole  well  built,  although  the  houses  are  generally  of  unim- 
posing  exterior.  It  forms  an  oblong  quadrangle,  the  E.  end  of  which 
adjoins  the  sea.  Two  main  streets  divide  it  into  four  quarters.  A 
new  quarter  of  the  town,  consisting  chiefly  of  villas  and  residences 
for  visitors,  has  sprung  up  to  the  N.  of  the  Via  Cavour. 

The  commerce  of  the  city,  which  is  to  a  great  extent  in  the 
hands  of  foreigners ,  has  overtaken  that  of  Messina  and  is  steadily 
increasing.  Sumach,  sulphur,  oranges,  and  lemons  are  largely  ex- 
ported. The  harbour  presents  ananimated  scene.  Steamers  of 
many  foreign  companies  call  at  Palermo;  and  the  Navigazione  Gene- 
rale  Italiana  (Florio-Rubattino)  ,  whose  fleet  is  perhaps  the  most 
numerous  of  all,  has  one  of  its  chief  seats  in  the  capital  of  Sicily. 

The  narrow  and  shallow  harbour,  called  La  Cala,  on  the  N.  W.  side  of 
which  lie  the  ruins  of  Fort  Castellammare,  extended  in  ancient  and  mediaeval 
times  farther  into  the  city,  including  the  present  Piazza  Marina  and  reach- 
ing on  the  W.  as  far  as  the  Via  Argenteria,  whence  the  Greek  name  of 
the  city  Panormos  ('entirely  harbour1).  The  ancient  town  stretching 
down  to  S.  Antonio  (PI.  5;  D,  4),  was  bounded  by  two  brooks  which 
emptied  themselves  into  the  harbour,  the  course  of  which  may  still  be 
traced  in  the  Via  di  Porta  di  Castro  on  the  S.  and  the  depression  of  the 
Papireto  (PI.  D,  2),  the  Piazza  S.  Onofrio,  and  the  Piazza  Nuova  on  the  N. 
To  the  N.  and  S.  of  the  old  town  lay  the  suburbs. 

Panormus  was  originally  a  Phoenician  settlement ,  and  ,  until  it  was 
captured  in  B.  C.  254  by  the  Romans,  was  one  of  the  most  important 
strongholds  of  the  Carthaginians.  Hamilcar  Barca  besieged  the  city  from 
the  Heircte  (Monte  Pellegrino ,  p.  268)  for  three  years ,  in  a  vain  attempt 
to  recover  it.  It  afterwards  belonged  to  the  Romans  and  was  colonised 
by  Augustus.  In  535  A.  D.  a  fleet  under  Belisarius  captured  the  city  from 
the  Goths,  and  thenceforth  it  remained  under  the  Byzantine  emperors  till 
the  arrival  of  the  Arabs  in  830.  The  latter  made  it  their  capital,  and  it 
rapidly  attained  a  high  pitch  of  prosperity,  counting  at  one  period  300,000 
.inhabitants.  In  1072  the  Normans  obtained  possession  of  it,  and  in  1193  the 
Germans  in  the  person  of  Henry  VI.  (p.  237).  The  French  house  of  Anjou 
was   expelled  in  1280  (Sicilian  Vespers).     The  monarchs   of  the  house  of 


250    Route  23.  PALERMO.  Cappella  Palatina. 

Aragon  seldom  resided  here.  The  Chiaramonte,  powerful  feudal  barons  and 
.Counts  of  Modica,  who  erected  a  spacious  palace  for  themselves  at  Palermo, 
were  long  the  real  rulers  of  the  place.  It  was  not  until  the  15th  cent,  that 
Palermo  began  to  recover  from  the  sufferings  of  this  long  period  of  anar- 
chy. The  Spanish  Viceroys  of  Sicily,  notwithstanding  the  loud  remon- 
strances of  Messina,  selected  this  city  as  their  residence,  and  the  nobles 
and  clergy  of  their  court  contributed  to  swell  its  magnificence  and  gaiety. 
From  this  period ,  the  16th  and  17th  cent. ,  date  the  two  main  streets, 
and  many  of  the  churches  and  palaces  which  now  form  the  characteristic 
features  in  the  architectural  appearance  of  Palermo.  Outward  splendour 
could  not  long,  however,  conceal  the  numerous  evils  of  the  Spanish  rule; 
and  in  1647  a  revolt  took  place,  whose  leader  Giuseppe  d'Alessi  met  the 
fate  of  Masaniello  (p.  39).  The  people  notwithstanding  remained  faithful 
to  the  Spaniards  till  1713,  against  both  the  French  and  the  Austrians.  In 
1798  and  again  in  1806  the  Neapolitan  court  took  refuge  in  Palermo ;  and 
Ferdinand  I.  resided  here  until  1815.  The  Sicilian  parliament  met  here 
in  1812.  The  revolt  of  1820  involved  Palermo  in  much  loss ;  while  the 
cholera  in  1837  swept  off  24,000  victims  in  8  weeks.  In  Jan.  and  Feb.,  1848 
the  town,  which  for  a  year  and  a  half  had  been  the  seat  of  the  revol- 
utionary government  (p.  238),  was  subjected  to  a  destructive  bombard- 
ment of  over  three  weeks;  and  after  the  final  revolt  against  the  Bourbons, 
which  broke  out  on  April  4th  1S6U,  Palermo  suffered  the  same  terrible  ex- 
perience until  the  victorious  entry  of  Garibaldi  on  May  27th.  Under  Ital- 
ian rule  the  town  has  extended  considerably,  especially  towards  the  N. 
Large  sums  of  money,  averaging  1,000,000  fr.  yearly,  have  been  expended 
in  laying  out  avenues,  in  paving  the  streets,  and  in  other  works  con- 
ducing to  the  beauty  of  the  town  and  the  public  health. 

Palermo  possesses  very  few  ancient  architectural  remains ,  but  this 
want  is  amply  compensated  by  its  interesting  mediaeval  monuments  (comp. 
pp.  243-246). 

On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  town  ,  at  the  end  of  the  Via  Vittorio 
Emanuele,  lies  the  spacious  Piazza  dblla  Vittokia  (PL  C,  2), 
where  the  *Palazzo  Keale  (PI.  87)  rises  on  a  slight  eminence 
which  has  always  been  the  site  of  the  castle  of  the  city.  The  nuc- 
leus of  this  building  is  of  Saracenic  origin.  Additions  were  made  by 
Robert  Guiscard,  King  Roger,  the  two  Williams,  Frederick  II.,  and 
Manfred ;  and  it  afterwards  underwent  many  alterations,  so  that  the 
central  tower  with  the  pointed  arches  (S.  Ninfa)  is  now  the  only 
relic  of  Norman  times.  Notwithstanding  this  it  still  retains  traces 
of  its  origin  as  a  defensive  structure. 

The  gate  farthest  to  the  left  leads  into  the  Palace  Court 
(guide  Y2  fr-i  unnecessary),  which  is  enclosed  by  arcades.  Ascend- 
ing a  staircase  on  the  left,  and  turning  to  the  right  on  the  first 
floor,  we  enter  the  — 

**Cappella  Palatina,  built  before  the  year  1132  by  King  Ro- 
ger II.  in  the  Arabic -Norman  style  and  dedicated  to  St.  Peter 
(open  7.30  to  11  a.m.;  at  other  times  fee;  best  light  early  in  the 
morning).  The  whole,  with  its  mosaic  decorations,  is  a  perfect  gem 
of  mediaeval  art,  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  palace- chapel  in  the 
world. 

The  Vestibule,  embellished  with  modern  mosaics,  forms  the  remains 
of  a  porticus,  which  at  one  time  surrounded  the  entire  chapel;  of  its  seven 
columns,  six  are  of  Egyptian  granite.  To  the  left  is  an  inscription  on  the 
wall  in  Latin,  Greek,  and  Arabic,  referring  to  the  erection  of  a  clock  in  1142. 

The  Interior  consists  of  a  nave  with  aisles,  and  is  36  yds.  long  (in- 
cluding the  apse)  and  14  yds.  in  width.     The  Saracenic  pointed  arches  are 


Observatory.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.    251 

borne  by  ten  columns  of  granite  and  eipollino,  16  ft.  in  height.  The  choir 
is  approached  by  five  steps,  and  over  the  crossing  rises  a  dome  75  ft.  in 
height,  pierced  by  eight  narrow  windows,  and  bearing  Greek  and  Latin 
inscriptions.  The  beautiful  wooden  roof  of  the  nave  is  also  adorned  with 
a  Curie  (ancient  Arabic)  inscription.  To  the  right  are  a  pulpit  and  marble 
candelabrum,  14'/2  ft.  high,  in  Norman  work  of  the  12th  cent,  (the  four  top 
figures  added  later).  The  Gothic  choir-stalls  are  modern.  —  The  floor  is 
laid  with  coloured  mosaics. 

The  Walls  are  entirely  covered  with  "Mosaics  (partly  restored)  on 
a  golden  ground,  and  radiant  with  oriental  splendour.  The  mosaics  re- 
present subjects  from  the  Old  Testament  and  the  lives  of  Christ,  St.  Peter, 
and  St.  Paul.  The  most  antique  are  those  of  the  choir,  which,  with  the 
exception  of  the  Madonna ,  completed  in  modern  times ,  date  from  the 
reign  of  King  Koger;  Christ  is  represented  here  in  the  style  which  recurs 
in  all  Norman  mosaics,  the  finest  specimen  of  which  is  at  Cefalu  (p.  309). 
The  most  modern  are  those  above  the  royal  throne,  which  faces  the  altar. 
The  throne  bears  the  arms  of  Aragon,  and,  subsequently  added,  those 
of  Savoy.  Amidst  the  wondrous  magic  of  the  general  effect ,  the  com- 
paratively uninteresting  details  will  attract  less  notice.  —  To  the  left  of 
the  entrance  a  bronze  door,  of  the  Norman  period,  with  ornamentation  in 
the  antique  manner,  leads  to  the  Sacristy,  which  contains  the  archives 
with  Greek,  Latin,  and  Arabic  documents,  and  the  treasury.  In  the  latter, 
No.  7,  a  large  ivory  casket,  of  Arab  workmanship,  and  an  enamelled 
ostensorium  (ca.  1600)  are  noteworthy. 

Leaving  the  chapel,  we  ascend  the  principal  staircase  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  court  to  the  arcades  of  the  second  floor,  and  enter 
the  passage  to  the  left,  where  the  first  door  on  the  right  bears 
the  inscription,  'R.  Osservatorio' .  This  is  the  entrance  to  the 
observatory,  which  is  fitted  up  in  the  tower  of  8.  Ninfa  (the 
former  Torre  Piscina) ,  the  oldest  part  of  the  edifice  (open  to  the 
public  on  Thursdays,  10-3;  to  travellers  .daily).  In  1801  Piazzi 
here  discovered  Ceres,  the  first  of  the  asteroids. 

We  ascend  two  flights  of  steps  and  enter  by  a  door,  where  we  find 
the  custodian  C/2-l  fr.).  The  flat  roof  commands  a  superb  ^Panorama. 
At  our  feet  lies  the  Piazza  della  Vittoria,  above  the  left  angle  of  which  rises 
the  Cathedral ;  in  front  of  the  latter  is  the  Pal.  Arcivescovile ;  on  the  right  is 
the  beginning  of  the  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele.  To  the  left  beyond  it  lies  the 
harbour,  commanded  on  the  left  by  the  Monte  Pellegrino ;  to  the  left  in  the 
background  rise  the  mountains  of  the  Capo  Gallo ;  below  them,  in  the  fore- 
ground, is  the  Porta  Nuova ;  to  the  left,  farther  distant,  La  Zisa,  a  cubical 
yellow  building  with  numerous  windows ;  farther  to  the  left  in  the  background 
rises  the  pointed  Monte  Cuccio,  prolonged  on  the  left  by  the  hill  of  Mon- 
reale.  Farther  to  the  left,  at  our  feet,  extends  the  Giardino  Reale,  above 
which  is  the  Piazza  delFIndipendenza  with  the  obelisks.  In  the  foreground, 
S.E.,  is  the  tower  of  the  red  church  ofS.  Giovanni  degli  Eremiti ;  beyond 
it  the  cypress-grove  of  the  Carnpo  Santo ;  in  the  distance ,  at  the  base  of 
the  lofty  M.  Griffone,  S.  Maria  di  Gesii;  more  to  the  left,  M.  Catalfano,  abut- 
ting on  the  sea;   on  the  promontory,  to  the  right  of  the  latter,  Bagheria. 

The  door  at  the  end  of  the  above-mentioned  passage  leads  to 
the  apartments  of  the  palace ,  the  most  noticeable  of  which  are 
the  so-called  *Stanza  di  Ruggero,  with  walls  of  mosaic  from  the 
Norman  period  (the  German  eagle  on  the  ceiling  indicates  a  later 
restoration),  and  a  room  with  portraits  of  the  viceroys  (fee  i/2-l  fr.). 

Connected  with  the  Palazzo  Reale  are  the  fortified  city-gates. 
To  the  right  (N.)  is  the  Porta  Nuova,  a  remarkable  building  in  the 
baroque  style,  through  which  the  Monreale  road  (p.  271)  leads 
past  the  (1/2  M.)  Cuba.     Access  to  the  upper  part  of  this  gate, 


252   Route  23.  PALERMO.  Palazzo  Sclafani. 

which  commands  a  beautiful  view  in  all  directions,  is  obtained 
from  the  Palazzo  Reale.  (The  Via  della  Colonna  Rotta,  the  first 
side-street  to  the  right,  outside  the  gate,  leads  to  the  Zisa,  2/3  M.; 
see  p.  267.J  To  the  left  formerly  stood  the  Porta  di  Castro,  through 
which  led  the  road  to  Parco  (p.  273).  Outside  the  Porta  Nuova 
lies  the  Piazza  dell'  Indipendenza ,  embellished  with  an  obelisk. 
—  In  the  corner  of  the  Piazza  della  Vittoria,  nearly  opposite  the 
entrance  to  the  palace,  rises  a  Monument  to  Philip  V.  (PI.  C,  2), 
erected  in  1856  on  the  site  of  a  statue  of  Philip  IV.  destroyed 
in  1848. 

The  Via  del  Bastione  di  Porta  di  Castro  leads  in  a  few  min- 
utes from  this  point  to  the  church  of  S.  Giovanni  degli  Eremiti  (PI. 
32 ;  0,  1),  one  of  the  earliest  existing  Norman  churches,  founded 
in  1132,  and  the  most  remarkable  church  in  Palermo.  The  five 
unadorned  domes ,  rising  directly  from  the  plain  perpendicular 
walls,  present  quite  an  Oriental  appearance.  The  church  is  closed ; 
visitors  ring  at  the  garden-gate  (fees  forbidden ;  the  custodian  offers 
worthless  antiquities  for  sale). 

The  Interior  presents  the  form  of  a  so-called  Egyptian  croS8  (T),  with 
three  apses;  the  nave  is  divided  into  two  squares  by  a  pointed  arch.  — 
On  the  S.  side  are  the  remains  of  a  small  mosque,  divided  into  two 
aisles  by  a  row  of  5  columns;  a  small  portico  leads  into  a  square  court. 
Under  the  Normans  the  entire  building  was  used  as  a  burial-place  for  the 
nobility ;  and  only  a  few  traces  of  the  frescoes  of  the  12th  cent,  are  now 
visible.  —  Adjoining  the  church  are  pretty  but  dilapidated  Cloisters,  of  later 
date  than  the  church.  —  The  best  view  of  the  domes  is  obtained  from 
the  S.  side  of  the  garden. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  Piazza  della  Vittoria,  opposite  the  palace, 
is  the  Palazzo  Sclafani  (PI.  93 ;  C,  2),  built  in  1330,  since  the  15th 
cent,  the  Spedale  Grande,  and  now  a  barrack.  Remains  of  the  old 
external  decoration  are  visible  on  the  E.  and  S.  walls.  The  arcades 
of  the  second  court  are  decorated  (right)  with  a  large  fresco  of  the 
15th  cent.,  the  *Triumph  of  Death,  ascribed  by  tradition  to  a  Fle- 
mish painter,  once  confined  here  by  sickness  (shown  on  week-days 
3-4  p.m.,  after  previous  application  at  the  Museo  Nazionale). 

Death  rises  in  triumph  over  pope,  kings,  etc. ;  to  the  right,  his  arrows 
have  struck  down  a  fashionable  lady  and  a  youth  in  the  midst  of  a  social 
party,  while  on  the  left  the  poor  and  wretched  implore  him  in  vain  for 
release  from  their  misery.  The  painter,  with  pencil  and  mahl-stick,  stands 
beside  the  latter  group. 

At  the  opposite  corner  of  the  Piazza  is  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace 
(PI.  84 ;  D,  2),  with  its  facade  towards  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  dating 
in  its  present  form  from  the  16th  century.  The  beautiful  Gothic 
window ,  at  the  corner  of  the  facade ,  is  a  relic  of  the  original 
building;  another  corner  window  was  adorned  by  the  Gagini.  The 
sword  at  the  entrance  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  Oalabrian 
Bonelli,  who  murdered  the  Grand  Admiral  Majo  de  Bari  in  1160. 
The  tower,  connected  with  the  cathedral  by  two  graceful  arches, 
was  originally  erected  in  the  12th  cent.,  but  in  its  present  form 
is  modern.   —  At  the  corner  of  the  archiepiscopal  palace  is  the 


Cathedral.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.    253 

Infirmbbxa.  dbi  Sacekdoti,  the  chapel  of  which  contains  a  Pieta 
by  Marcello  Venusti.  The  entrance  is  from  the  Piazza  Papireto 
(PI.  D,  2),  the  site  of  which,  as  late  as  the  16th  cent.,  was  occupied 
by  a  papyrus-swamp.  We  follow  the  Via  Bonella,  at  the  corner  of 
which,  opposite  the  cathedral,  lies  the  ruined  church  of  the  Ma- 
donna dell'  Incoronata,  dating  from  the  16th  cent.,  with  a  Norman 
chapel  and  frescoes  of  the  14th  cent,  (key  in  the  Museo  Nazionale). 

The  spacious  Piazza  del  Duomo  (PI.  D,  2)  is  enclosed  by  a 
marble  balustrade,  erected  in  1761  and  adorned  with  sixteen  large 
statues  of  saints.  In  the  centre  rises  a  statue  of  S.  Rosalia,  on  a 
triangular  pedestal,  placed  here  in  1744. 

The  'Cathedral,  or  church  of  the  Assunta  (PI.  15;  D,  2),  in 
which  restorations  to  its  disadvantage  have  been  undertaken  in 
eaoh  century  since  its  foundation,  was  erected  in  1169-85  by 
Archbishop  Walter  of  the  Mill  (Gualterio  Offamilio) ,  an  English- 
man, on  the  site  of  a  more  ancient  church,  which  had  been 
converted  into  a  mosque  and  subsequently  reconverted  into  a 
Christian  place  of  worship.  The  broad  gable  was  added  in  1450 
to  the  beautiful  S.  portico;  the  door  dates  from  1425.  The  character 
of  the  ancient  building  is  best  preserved  on  the  E.  side,  with  its 
(restored)  black  ornamentation.  The  W-  facade,  with  the  prin- 
cipal portal  and  the  two  towers,  erected  in  1300-59,  is  particularly 
fine.  The  old  bell -tower  here,  connected  with  the  cathedral  by 
two  arches,  dates  chiefly  from  the  12th  cent.,  although  restored  in 
modern  times.  In  1781-1801  the  church  was  disfigured  by  the  ad- 
dition of  a  dome,  constructed  by  Fernando  Fuga,  the  Neapolitan,  in 
spite  of  the  remonstrances  of  the  Sicilian  architects.  Fuga  also 
spoiled  the  interior,  constructing  new  side  apses  in  the  middle  of 
the  transepts,  without  regard  to  the  original  recesses. 

The  Interior  is  open  to  visitors  7-11  a.m.,  and  after  4  p.m.  —  The 
S.  Aisle  (left  of  the  S.  Portal)  contains  the  "Tombs  of  the  Kings.  Here,  in 
admirably  executed  sarcophagi  of  porphyry  (which ,  originally  prepared 
for  King  Roger,  stood  in  the  cathedral  at  Cefalu),  surmounted  by  canopies, 
repose:  Emp.  Frederick  II.  (d.  1250),  to  the  right  his  father  Henry  VI. 
(d.  1197),  behind  to  the  left,  King  Roger  (d.  1154),  to  the  right,  his  daughter 
Constance,  wife  of  Henry  VI.  In  a  niche  to  the  left  is  the  sarcophagus 
of  William ,  son  of  Frederick  III.  of  Aragon ;  and  in  the  antique  sar- 
cophagus, with  hunting  scenes,  to  the  right,  reposes  Constance  of  Aragon, 
wife  of  Frederick  II.  In  1781  the  sarcophagi  were  transferred  hither  from 
a  chapel  contiguous  to  the  choir,  and  opened.  The  remains  of  Roger, 
Henry  VI.,  and  Constance  were  greatly  decomposed,  whilst  those  of  Fred- 
erick II.  were  in  good  preservation.  With  the  latter  the  remains  of  two 
other  bodies  were  found,  one  that  of  Peter  II.  of  Aragon,  the  other 
Duke  William,  son  of  King  Frederick  II.  of  Aragon.  The  corpse  of  the 
great  emperor  was  enveloped  in  sumptuous  robes  with  inscriptions  in  Arabic; 
beside  him  lay  the  crown  and  imperial  apple,  and  his  sword. 

On  the  left  wall  of  the  chapel  to  the  left  of  the  tombs,  is  a  4St.  Cecilia, 
by  Antonio  di  Crescenzio  (about  1500),  with  an  angel  playing  a  lute. 

In  the  second  chapel  of  the  N.  Aisle  is  an  Assumption,  from  a  work 
in  marble  by  Ant.  Oagini,  other  parts  of  which  (reliefs)  are  in  different 
parts  of  the  church.  By  the  4th  pillar,  a  font  of  the  15th  century.  In  the 
7th  chapel,  statue  of  the  Madonna  by  Francesco  Laurana  of  Dalmatia 
(1469).    In  the  8th  chapel,  a  Passion,  by  Oagini. 


254   Route  23.  PALERMO.  Quattro  Canti. 

The  Choir  contains  statues  of  the  apostles  by  Gagini,  and  fine  old 
carved  stalls.  To  the  right  of  the  choir  is  the  Cappella  di  S.  Rosalia. 
Here  the  saint  (p.  269)  reposes  in  a  sarcophagus  of  silver,  over  1400  lbs.  in 
weight,  exhibited  only  on  11th  Jan.,  15th  July,  and  4th  September. 

The  Sacristy  is  at  the  end  of  the  S.  aisle.  Here  are  exhibited  the 
cap  of  Constance  of  Aragon  (taken  from  her  coffin  in  the  16th  cent.),  a 
piece  of  Henry  VI.'s  mantle ,  and  a  gorgeous  pallium  of  Spanish  work- 
manship (fee  to  attendant,  who  also  shows  the  crypt,  1fa-l  fr.). 

The  sCeypt  beneath  the  choir,  containing  the  remains  of  the  arch- 
bishops in  ancient  and  early-Christian  sarcophagi,  should  also  be  visited. 
Here,  among  others,  repose  Gualterio  Offamilio  (d.  1190),  Paterno,  the 
patron  of  Ant.  Gagini ,  by  whom  his  statue  is  executed,  and  Frederick  of 
Antioch  (d.  1305;  the  recumbent  figure  dates  from  the  16th  cent.). 

The  bioad  main  street  of  Palermo,  the  Corso  or  Via  Vittorio 
Emanuele,  was  constructed  in  its  present  form  by  the  Spanish 
viceroy  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  (comp.  p.  40),  but  was  long  popularly 
known  as  the  Cassaro  ,  from  the  name  it  bore  originally  (Arab,  'al 
Kassar',  the  castle).  Following  it  hence  to  the  N.E.,  towards  the 
sea ,  we  pass  on  the  left  the  former  Collegio  Nuovo  (PI.  79 ;  D,  3) 
of  the  Jesuits ,  now  containing  the  National  Library  (open  daily, 
9-3)  and  the  Lyceum.  —  Opposite,  on  the  left  side'of  the  Via  del 
Protonotario,  is  a  convent-wall  of  1072. 

Farther  on  in  the  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele,  to  the  right,  is 
the  magnificent  church  of  S.  Salvatore  (PI.  68;  O,  3),  designed 
by  Amato  (1628).  The  interior,  in  which  the  play  of  light  and 
shadow  is  particularly  fine,  is  oval,  with  three  large  recesses.  The 
dome  is  adorned  with  angels  and  saints,  and  the  walls  are  covered 
with  'putti',  garlands,  and  scroll-work  of  coloured  marble. 

We  next  reach  on  the  left  the  Palazzo  Oeraci  (with  the  Casino 
Nuovo,  p.  247)  and  the  Pal.  Riso  (formerly  Belmonte),  built  in 
1790  by  Marvuglia.  From  this  point  a  'vicolo'  leads  to  the  Chibsa 
del  Cancelliere  (PI.  46a;  D,  3),  founded  in  1171  by  Matteo  di 
Aiello,  and  restored  in  1590;  in  the  first  chapel  on  the  left  is  an 
Adoration,  by  Antonio  da  Saliba  (1490). 

In  the  small  Piazza  Bologni  (PL  O,  3),  where  the  victims  of  the 
Inquisition  were  formerly  executed,  is  a  statue  of  Charles  V.  by 
Livolsi  (1630).  To  the  W.  stands  the  Palazzo  Villafranca,  to  the 
E.  the  Post  Office  (PL  88),  in  the  old  church  of  S.  Nicola. 

Farther  on  we  come  to  the  Quattro  Canti  (PL  C,  D,  3,  4),  or 
Piazza  Vigliena,  a  small  octagonal  piazza,  situated  in  the  very  heart 
of  the  city.  It  was  constructed  by  the  viceroy  Marquis  de  Villena 
in  1609.  The  four  facades  looking  towards  the  piazza  are  em- 
bellished with  columns  and  statues  of  the  Seasons,  Spanish  kings, 
and  the  holy  virgins  of  Palermo.  —  In  the  S.  angle  of  the  piazza 
rises  the  richly-decorated  church  of  S.  Giuseppe  de'  Teatini  (PL  35, 
C  3;  beginning  of  the  17th  cent.).  The  baroque  angels  bearing  the 
holy  water  vessel  are  by  Marabitti ,  and  the  frescoes  by  Tancredi 
and  Borromanus.  This  church  was  the  scene  of  the  meetings  of  the 
people  under  Giuseppe  d'Alesi  (1647).  The  crypt,  or  lower  church 
(Madonna  della  Providenza),  is  also  remarkable. 


Martorana.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.    255 

Passing  this  church ,  we  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Via  Mac- 
ciubda,  and  reach  one  of  the  most  interesting  quarters  of  the  town. 

On  the  left  side  of  this'  street  is  the  Piazza  Pretoria  (PL  0,  4), 
with  a  large  Fountain  executed  about  1550  by  the  Florentine  sculp- 
tors Camilliani  and  Vagherino,  and  originally  destined  for  a  villa  of 
the  viceroy  Garcia  di  Toledo.  The  Palazzo  dblla  Citta  or  Palazzo 
Municipale  (PL  86),  on  the  right,  contains  statues  of  a  Roman  and 
his  wife  in  the  court,  a  Oenius  of  Palermo  (15th  cent.)  on  the 
staircase,  and  a  Greek  *  Statue  (Antinous  or  Apollo)  on  the  first 
floor  (staircase  to  the  left  at  the  end  of  the  court;  fee  30  c).  —  In 
this  piazza  are  also  the  old  Pal.  Serradifalco,  and  the  side-entrance 
to  the  church  oiS.  Caterina(V\.  14;  end  of  16th  cent.),  the  interior 
of  which  is  gorgeously  decorated  in  the  baroque  style. 

Farther  on,  in  a  small  piazza  on  the  left  side  of  the  Via  Mac- 
queda,  is  a  flight  of  a  steps  ascending  to  the  right  to  two  Norman 
churches  (restored;  adm.  8-4,  1  fr.,  Sun.  free).  The  smaller  church, 
dedicated  to  8.  Cataldo,  was  begun  in  1161;  of  its  three  domes, 
the  central  one  is  supported  by  four  columns.  The  original  altar, 
and  the  mosaic  pavement  of  the  interior  are  still  preserved;  outside, 
the  old  Arabian  battlemented  frieze  is  visible. 

The  larger  church  of  *La  Martorana  (PL  54;  C,  4)  was  erected 
in  1143  by  Georgios  Antiochenos,  grand-admiral  of  Roger  I.,  and 
from  him  derived  its  original  name  of  8.  Maria  cleW  Ammiraglio. 
It  was  the  meeting-place  of  the  Sicilian  parliament,  after  the  ex- 
pulsion of  the  house  of  Anjou.    Adm.  8-4,  1  fr. ;  Sun.  10-5  free. 

The  church  was  originally  quadrangular,  with  three  apses,  and  a  dome 
borne  by  four  columns  in  the  Byzantine  style,  and  was  adorned  inside  and 
out  with  mosaics,  probably  by  Greek  artists.  The  nuns  of  the  convent  of 
Martorana,  presented  in  1433  with  the  church,  caused  the  edifice  to  be 
extended  towards  the  W.  In  1684  the  central  apse  was  replaced  by  a 
square  chapel,  and  in  1726  the  work  of  destruction  was  carried  still  farther 
by  the  removal  of  the  mosaics  from  the  walls.  The  dome,  injured  by  an 
earthquake,  was  also  removed  in  1726.  An  attempt,  however,  is  now 
being  made  to  restore  the  church  in  accordance  with  the  ancient  plan,  the 
mosaics  being  entrusted  to  the  brothers  Bonanni.  The  present  vestibule 
contains  two  columns,  with  Arabic  inscriptions,  perhaps  taken  from  a 
mosque,  and  two  mosaic-pictures,  probably  from  the  original  facade.  The 
mosaic  to  the  left  represents  the  admiral  Georgios  Antiochenos  at  the 
feet  of  the  Virgin  (only  the  head  and  hands  are  old;  the  rest  dates  from 
a  poor  restoration  in  the  17th  cent.);  that  on  the  right  represents  King 
Roger  crowned  by  Christ.  —  The  two  upper  stories  of  the  four -storied 
campanile  were  rebuilt,  probably  in  the  14th  century. 

To  the  right  in  the  Via  Macqueda  is  situated  the  University 
(PL  99;  0,  3),  attended  by  about  1100  students,  with  important 
natural  history  collections,  among  which  the  fishes  in  the  zoological, 
the  fossil  mammalia  in  the  palaeontological,  and  the  fine  specimens 
of  Sicilian  sulphur  and  articles  found  in  caves  in  the  geological 
department  are  the  most  interesting.  (The  scientific  traveller  may 
also  probably  gain  admittance  to  the  Marchese  Monterosato's  ad- 
mirable collection  of  Oonchylia,  Via  Carella.)  —  In  the  street  ad- 
jacent to  the  university,  on  the  right,  we  reach  the  Casa  Professa 


256    Route  23.  PALERMO.  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele. 

(PL  13;  0,  3),  with  the  Jesuits'  Church,  completed  in  1683,  and 
overladen  with  ornament.  Adjoining  it  is  the  Biblioteca  Comunale 
(PL  77),  entered  by  a  Doric  vestibule  in  the  street  to  the  right,  and 
containing  a  most  valuable  collection  of  books  and  MSS.  relative 
to  Sicilian  history.  On  the  first  floor  is  the  'Historical  Hall',  open 
daily  from  9  to  4.  —  In  the  neighbourhood  is  the  church  Del  Car- 
mine Maggiore  (PL  41 ;  B,  3),  a  magnificent  building  of  the  17th 
cent.;  in  the  1st  chapel  to  the  right:  Novelli,  S.  Andrea  Corsini; 
3rd  chapel  on  the  right:  Statue  of  St.  Catharine,  1521;  chapel  to 
the  right  of  the  choir,  copy  after  Tomm.  de  Vigilia.  —  The  first 
side-street  to  the  left  in  the  Via  Porta  di  Castro  leads  to  the  tower 
of  S.  Niceolb  dell'  Albergheria  (PL  59;  C,  3),  in  which  are  a  couple 
of  Norman  windows.  On  the  other  side  the  Salita  Benfratelli  leads 
to  the  street  and  church  of  S.  Chiara  (PL  16;  C,  3),  containing  a 
Pieta  by  Novelli,  and  thence  to  the  mediaeval  Palazzo  Raffadale. 
—  Farther  on  in  the  Via  Porta  di  Castro  (PL  C,  2),  a  'vicolo'  di- 
verges to  the  right  to  the  Palazzo  del  Conte  Federico,  with  scanty 
remains  of  the  mediaeval  erection. 

The  Via  Macqueda  ends  at  the  Porta  S.  Antonino  (PL  B,  3,  4), 
outside  of  which  is  the  Railway  Station  (PL  A,  4). 

The  Via  Divisi,  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Via  Macqueda, 
between  the  Quattro  Canti  and  the  Porta  S.  Antonino,  leads  to  the 
little  church  of  S.  Maria  di  tutte  le  Orazie  (PL  48 ;  B,  4),  a  fine 
specimen  of  15th  cent.  Gothic,  and  thence  to  the  Piazza  della  Ri- 
voluzione  (PL  0,  4),  so  called,  because  the  revolutionary  standard 
was  here  first  unfurled  in  1848.  Its  former  name  was  'Fiera 
Vecchia'  or  old  market.  The  statue  of  the  Oenius  of  Palermo  was 
removed  in  1849  by  the  Bourbon  government,  but  restored  in  1860 
by  the  people.  —  We  next  cross  the  Piazza  Aragona  to  the  Piazza 
Cboce  de'  Vespri  ,  in  the  centre  of  which  rises  a  marble  column 
with  a  cross,  surrounded  by  a  railing  of  lances  and  halberds, 
erected  in  1737  to  the  memory  of  the  French  buried  here  in  1282 
(the  original  is  now  in  the  Museo  Nazionale).  —  The  Palazzo  Set- 
tirno  in  the  Via  del  Teatro  S.  Cecilia  contains  a  valuable  library.  — 
The  Via  Garibaldi  (PL  B,  4)  leads  S.  from  the  Piazza  della  Ri- 
voluzione  to  the  Porta  Garibaldi,  by  which  Garibaldi  entered  the 
town  on  27th  May  1860.  On  the  left  side  of  this  street  is  the  Pa- 
lazzo Ajutamicristo ;  the  door  and  one  side  of  the  court  date  from 
the  original  building,  erected  by  Matteo  Carnevale  in  1490.  — 
The  next  side-street  leads  to  the  Piazza  della  Magione  (p.  258). 

If  we  follow  the  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele  ,  and  cross  the 
Quattro  Canti  in  the  direction  of  the  sea,  we  reach  the  church 
of  S.  Matteo  (PL  55;  D,  4),  which  contains  a  fine  picture  of 
the  Virgin  and  St.  Anna  by  Novelli  (4th  chapel  to  the  left)  and 
statues  by  Serpotta.  Farther  on  is  a  small  piazza  on  the  left,  where 
the  sea-gate  of  the  old  town  of  Palermo  was  situated  down  to  the 
16th  century.  Thence  we  proceed  through  a  gate  inscribed  'Domus 


Piazza  Marina.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.    257 

Dei  Porta  Cceli'  into  a  passage,  which  leads  to  the  church  of  S.  An- 
tonio (PL  5;  D,  4),  a  structure  of  the  early  part  of  the  13th  cent., 
restored  after  an  earthquake  in  1823  but  freely  modernized.  It 
contains  scanty  remains  of  the  original  mosaics.  The  Byzantine 
ground-plan  corresponds  with  those  of  La  Martorana  and  S.  Cataldo 
(p.  255).  At  the  end  of  the  Salita  di  S.  Antonio  are  some  curious 
old  mediaeval  buildings  (to  the  left). 

Returning  to  the  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele ,  we  soon  reach  the  Via 
Cintorinai,  a  cross-street  on  the  right,  leading  to  S.  Francesco 
de'  Chiodari  (PL  25;  C,  5),  in  the  piazza  of  that  name.  This 
church  has  an  early-Gothic  facade  (restored) ,  with  columns  from 
a  Saracenic  building.  In  the  modernized  interior  are  remains  of 
frescoes  by  Pietro  Novelli.  The  Sicilian  parliament  of  1848  met  in 
the  adjoining  convent.  To  the  left  is  the  Oratorio  di  San  Lorenzo 
(PL  37) ,  with  excellent  stucco-figures  by  Serpotta,  a  Nativity  by 
Michelangelo  da  Caravaggio  ,  and  intarsia-work  of  the  18th  cent, 
(entr.  in  the  court  to  the  left).  —  To  the  right,  in  the  Via  Cintorinai 
(No.  48),  is  the  old  Pal.  Cattolica,  with  a  fine  court. 

Farther  on  the  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele  emerges  on  the  Piazza 
Marina  (see  below).  To  the  left  is  the  new  government  Finance 
Office  (PL  85),  opposite  which  is  the  Fontana  del  Oaraffo,  by 
Amato  (1698).  —  At  the  corner  of  the  Via  Fonderia  is  the  church 
Di  Porto  Salvo,  a  Renaissance  edifice,  divided  into  two  in  1581. 
—  At  the  beginning  of  the  side-street  on  the  left  leading  to  the 
small  harbour  of  La  Cala,  which  is  sheltered  from  the  E.  wind 
by  a  pier,  is  the  small  church  of  S.  Maria  delta  Catena  (PL  47;  D,  5), 
erected  towards  the  close  of  the  15th  cent,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
edifice.  The  name  refers  to  the  chain  with  which  the  mouth  of 
the  harbour  used  to  be  closed.  The  charming  vestibule  exhibits 
the  unusually  depressed  form  of  arch  frequently  seen  in  S.  Italy 
towards  the  close  of  the  Gothic  period.  The  interior  is  undergoing 
restoration.     The  loggia  overlooks  the  harbour. 

Continuing  to  follow  the  Via  Vitt.  Emanuele ,  we  reach  the 
Piazza  di  S.  Spirito  (PI.  C,  6),  with  the  Conservatorio  of  that  name 
(PL  78),  founded  in  1608,  formerly  a  hospice,  and  now  the 
Foundling  Hospital ;  on  the  facade  is  a  Carita  by  Vincenzo  Riolo. 
Nearly  opposite  is  the  house  (No.  12),  marked  by  an  inscription, 
in  which  Goethe  lodged  in  1787.  Beyond  the  piazza  is  the  Porta 
Felice  (PL  C,  D,  6),  so  named  after  Felice  Orsini,  wife  of  the 
viceroy  Colonna,  a  tasteful  baroque  edifice  begun  in  1582,  but  by 
no  means  improved  by  the  fountains  and  statues  added  on  the 
seaward  side  in  1644. 

The  Piazza  Marina  (PL  C,  5),  one  of  the  finest  in  Palermo, 
is  adorned  with  the  pleasure  -  grounds  of  the  Giardino  Garibaldi, 
with  their  beautiful  palms.  In  the  S.  corner  of  the  square  stands 
the  church  of  S.  Maria  dei  Miracoli,  built  in  1547.  On  the  S.  E. 
side  is  the  Palazzo  Chiaramonti  (PL  98),  generally  called  Lo  Steri 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.    lltli  Edition.  17 


258   Route  23.  PALERMO.  Piazza  della  Kalsa. 

(i.  e.  Hosterium),  erected  subsequent  to  1307  by  the  Chiaramor 
family.  After  the  execution  of  Andrea  Chiaramonte  in  1392,  t 
palace  was  occupied  by  courts  of  justice.  At  a  later  period  it  becai 
the  residence  of  the  viceroys,  and  in  1600  the  seat  of  the  Inquii 
tion.  In  the  present  century  it  has  again  become  the  Palazzo  < 
Tribunali.  One  of  the  halls  still  preserves  its  wooden  ceiling 
the  14th  century.  The  door  to  the  right  leads  through  the  Doga 
to  the  fine  court,  and  to  the  adjoining  palace-chapel  of  S.  Antoi 
Abbate,  with  a  restored  facade. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  piazza  is  the  modern  Palazzo  San  Catalc 
to  the  right  of  which  the  Vicolo  Palagonia  leads  to  the  earlier  Palaz 
8.  Cataldo,  a  good  early-Renaissance  building ,  and  to  the  left  t 
Via  Quattro  Aprile  to  the  monastery  della  Oangia  (PI.  28;  C,  i 
the  monks  of  which  have  taken  an  active  part  in  every  revolutic 
including  that  of  1860. 

The  Church  dates  from  the  15th  cent.  In  the  2nd  chapel  to  the  rig 
Antonio  da  Palermo,  Madonna  di  Monserrato  (1528) ;  beyond  the  5th  ch 
to  the  right,  a  sculptured  pulpit,  and  in  front  on  the  choir-pillars,  t 
figures  (Annunciation)  by  Oagini.  The  choir  contains  fine  carved  sta 
Next  the  choir,  to  the  left,  Vincenzo  di  Pavia,  Sposalizio;  3rd  chap, 
the  left,  Novelli,  S.  Pietro  di  Alcantara. 

Farther  on  in  the  Via  Alloro  (PI.  0,  5,  6)  is  the  Palazzo  Abbatt 
(1495;  now  a  convent  of  the  nuns  della  Pieta),  with  a  Spanish  moi 
over  the  door,  and,  at  the  end  of  the  street,  the  church  della  Pu 
(PI.  52;  C,  5),  a  baroque  edifice  of  1680.  The  Vicolo  dei  Cattivi,  o 
posite,  leads  to  the  promenade-terraces  and  the  Pal.  Butera  ("Vie1! 

The  Via  Torremuzza  leads  from  the  Pieta  church  to  that  of 
Teresa,  in  the  Piazza  della  Kalsa  (PI.  B,  6) ,  so  called  from  t 
Arabic  name  ('Kalesa')  for  the  new  town ,  and  embellished  witl 
marble  statue  of  Giov.  Meli,  the  poet.  Opposite  this  church  is  t 
Porta  dei  Oreci  (PI.  B,  6),  which  owes  its  name  to  the  Greeks  w 
inhabited  this  suburb  during  the  middle  ages.  The  side  next  t 
sea  forms  the  Palazzo  Forcella  (now  the  Pal.  Baucind). 

A  vicolo  leads  by  S.  Teresa  to  the  Piazzetta  dello  Spasimo, 
which,  at  the  corner  to  the  left,  is  a  Renaissance  palace,  begun 
1542,  adjoined  by  the  entrance  to  the  ancient  church  of  8.  Mai 
della  Vittoria  (PI.  29 ;  B,  5).  In  the  first  chapel  to  the  right 
this  church  is  shown  the  door  through  which  Robert  Guiscard  e 
tered  the  city.  —  Farther  on,  in  the  large  open  space  to  the  le 
rise  the  massive  arches  of  the  church  of  8.  Maria  dello  Spasimo  (] 
53  ;  B,  5  ;  now  a  hospital),  an  unfinished  building  dating  from  t 
beginning  of  the  16th  century.  Raphael  painted  his  Christ  bearii 
the  Cross,  now  in  Madrid,  for  this  church.  —  The  archway  in  t 
little  Piazza  Vitriera  leads  to  the  Piazza  dblla  Magione  (PI.  B,  I 
At  the  end  of  the  piazza  (to  the  right)  we  see  the  choir  of  the  churc 
to  the  right  of  which  we  reach  the  monastery  and  the  side-entranc 
and  to  the  left,  round  the  houses,  the  court  of  the  Magione  (PL  4 
B,  5).  The  church,  disfigured  by  a  modern  Doric  porch,  was  foum 


BotanicUarden.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.    259 

ed  for  the  Cistercians  about  1150  by  Matteo  di  Aiello,  and  presented 
to  the  Teutonic  Order  in  1193  by  Henry  VI.  as  a  'mansio'.  The  N. 
aisle  contains  tombs  of  knights  of  the  order,  of  the  15th  century. 

A  beautiful  walk  is  afforded  by  the  *  Marina  (PI.  C,  B,  A,  6), 
officially  called  the  Foro  Italico,  a  quay  extending  to  the  S.  from 
the  Porta  Felice  along  the  sea,  commanding  fine  views  towards  the 
S.  as  far  as  the  promontory  of  Monte  Catalfano  (to  the  right  of 
which  Mt.  JEtna  is  visible  in  clear  weather),  and,  to  the  N.,  of  the 
beautiful  Mte.  Pellegrino.  In  summer  and  autumn  the  fashionable 
citizens  of  Palermo  congregate  here  to  listen  to  the  music  of  a  band. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Marina  lies  the  Flora,  or  *Villa  Giulia 
(PI.  B,  A,  6),  which  is  entered  from  the  Via  Lincoln,  a  street 
leading  towards  the  W.  to  the  Porta  S.  Antonino.  This  public 
garden,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Italy,  first  laid  out  in  1777, 
has  recently  been  considerably  extended  and  improved.  The  air 
here  in  spring  is  laden  with  the  delicious  and  aromatic  perfumes  of 
oranges,  citrons,  Erythrina  corallodendron,  Cercis  siliquastrum,  and 
other  blossoming  trees  and  shrubs.  Opposite  the  main  entrance, 
at  the  end  of  the  garden,  stands  the  most  important  work  of  recent 
Palerman  sculpture,  consisting  of  a  group  of  the  modern  Greek 
naval  heroes,  the  brothers  Canaris,  executed  by  Benedetto  Civiletti. 

Adjoining  the  Flora  is  the  *Botanic  Garden  (PI.  A,  B,  5),  which 
deserves  a  visit  (1/2  fr.  to  the  gardener). 

The  beautiful  avenue  of  Date  Palms  and  Gycas  Revoluta  will  attract 
the  attention  of  every  visitor.  Near  the  entrance  are  two  Australian 
Coco-trees ,  while  scattered  throughout  the  grounds  are  fine  specimens  of 
Latania  Borbonica,  Corypha  Australis,  Musa  Ensete,  Bananas,  Bamboos  (at- 
taining a  height  of  45  ft.),  Strelitzia,  Wigandia,  Philodendron  Pertusum, 
Australian  Myrtaceae,  Melaleucea,  etc.  In  one  of  the  water-basins  are  a 
few  Papyrus  Plants.  Some  of  the  flowering- plants  in  the  greenhouses 
are  of  astonishing  brilliancy. 

Following  the  N.  half  of  the  Via  Macqueda  (PI.  D,  E,  3,  4) 
from  the  Quattro  Canti  (p.  254)  in  the  direction  of  the  Porta  Mac- 
queda, we  reach  on  the  right  beside  a  flight  of  steps  descending  to 
the  Piazza  Nuova  (PI.  D,  4),  the  little  church  of  S.  Maria  delta  Volta, 
with  a  Madonna  by  Brescianino  (at  the  2nd  altar  to  the  right).  Giu- 
seppe d'Alesi  was  assassinated  here  in  1647.  —  Beyond  the  Piazza 
Nuova  lies  the  Piazza  Caraccioli,  the  old  meat  and  vegetable  mar- 
ket. The  Via  Argenteria  leads  straight  on ,  past  the  interesting 
Renaissance  facade  of  S.  Eulalia  de'  Catalani  (PI.  24  ;  D,  4)  ,  to 
the  busy  Piazza  Garaffello,  No.  16  in  which,  formerly  the  Loggia 
dei  Genovesi,  bears  a  bust  of  Charles  V. 

The  Via  Bandiera  (PI.  D,  4)  which  diverges  to  the  right  from 
the  Via  Macqueda,  farther  on,  leads  to  the  church  of  S.  Pietro  Mar- 
tire  ,  which  contains  paintings  by  Novelli  (Entombment ,  Madonna 
della  Grazia) ,  and  the  Palazzo  Pietratagliata  (formerly  Pal.  Ter- 
mini), dating  from  the  15th  century. 

In  the  other  direction  from  the  Via  Macqueda,  the  Via  S.  Agos- 
tino  (PI.  D,  3)  leads  to  the  church  of  S.  Agostino  (PL 2),  the  Gothic 

17* 


260   Route  23.  PALERMO.  Museum. 

facade  of  which  dates  from  the  14th  cent. ,  and  on  to  the  Mercato 
Nuovo  (PL  E,  3),  in  which  is  the  pretty  little  Renaissance  church 
of  S.  Marco  (PL  43).  —  Farther  on  in  the  direction  of  the  cathe- 
dral lies  the  church  of  8.  Agata  li  Scoruggi  (PI.  1  ;  D,  3),  containing 
frescoes  of  the  16th  cent.,  paintings  by  Zoppo  diGanci,  an  Adoration 
by  Wolberch  (1586)  ,  a  Dutch  painter,  and  a  fountain  with  won- 
der-working water  (usually  closed). 

At  the  end  of  the  Via  Macqueda  is  the  Teatro  Vittorio  Emanuele 
(PL  E,  3),  erected  by  the  architect  Basile  at  a  cost  of  5,000,000  fr., 
and  still  unfinished.  —  Outside  the  Porta  Macqueda  (PL  E,  3,  4) 
extends  the  Piazza  Ruggiero  Settimo  (PL  F ,  3,  4) ,  which  is 
embellished  with  a  garden.  Statues  of  two  Sicilian  patriots  have 
been  erected  here :  on  the  right  that  of  Ruggiero  Settimo  (p.  238  ; 
d.  1862,  honorary  president  of  the  Italian  senate) ;  on  the  left  that 
of  Carlo  Cottone ,  Principe  di  Castelnuovo ,  who  was  minister  in 
1812 ,  during  the  brief  parliamentary  government  of  Sicily  (p.  238). 
On  one  side  of  the  piazza  stands  the  Politeama  Garibaldi  (p.  248). 
—  On  the  left  side  of  the  Via  della  Libertd  (PL  G,  3,  4),  which 
leads  to  the  N.  from  the  piazza,  are  the  buildings  of  the  National 
Exhibition  of  1891-92.  This  street  is  the  fashionable  'corso'  on 
winter  afternoons.  —  A  little  farther  on  is  the  Giardino  Inglese 
(PL  H,  I,  3,  4),  with  pleasant  grounds ,  and  adorned  with  busts 
of  Garibaldi,  Bixio,  and  others. 

The  Via  della  Bara  (PL  E,  4),  beginning  opposite  the  theatre, 
leads  to  the  Piazza  dell'  Oliyella,  in  which  is  the  church  of  the 
same  name  (PL  63;  E,  4;  2nd  chapel  to  the  right,  Adoration  of  the 
Child,  by  Lorenzo  di  Credi).  The  adjoining  suppressed  monastery 
dei  Filippini  contains  the  — 

*Museo  Nazionale  (PL  82;  E,  4).  The  museum  is  open  daily, 
10-3  (Sun.  11-3),  except  on  public  holidays,  the  last  three  days 
of  the  Carnival,  and  during  Passion  Week.  Admission  1  fr. ;  on 
Sundays  gratis.    Ant.  Salinas,  Director. 

Ground  Floor.  We  first  enter  a  small  colonnaded  Court 
(J.  Cortile;  recently  partly  rebuilt)  with  medieval  and  Renaissance 
sculptures  and  inscriptions.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  apainted 
statue  of  the  Madonna  (about  1500)  ;  and  in  the  middle  is  a  Triton 
(16th  cent.)  from  a  fountain  in  the  royal  palace,  behind  which  is 
the  column  from  the  Piazza  Croce  de'  Vespri  (p.  256).  On  the  wall 
to  the  right  are  Greek  inscriptions ;  No.  22  (37),  in  four  languages, 
dates  from  the  12th  century.  We  pass  under  a  pointed  arch  (from  the 
Palazzo  Sclafani)  in  the  middle  of  the  wall  to  the  adjoining  Hall  of 
St.  George,  with  an  altar  ascribed  to  A.  Gagini  (1526)  and  two 
state-coaches  of  the  18th  century.  —  On  the  third  wall  of  the  little 
colonnaded  court  to  the  right,  is  a  very  graceful  *Statue  of  the  Ma- 
donna, by  A.  Gagini.  Two  doorways,  with  frames  richly  ornamented 
in  the  Renaissance  style,  lead  to  two  small  rooms,  one  containing 
a  Bacchante  by  Villareale  (d.  1854)  and  a  beautiful  relief  of  the 


Museum. 


PALERMO. 


23.  Route.    261 


Madonna  (to  the  right),  the  other  a  gilded  and  painted  statue 
of  the  Madonna  (about  1500),  and  a  tufa  altar,  with  Gothic  orna- 
mentation from  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century.  No.  990,  on 
the  fourth  wall,  is  a  double-portrait  in  relief,  and  No.  998  a  por- 
trait-head from  the  period  of  the  Renaissance.  —  Between  the 
tasteful  columns  from  the  Pal.  Sclafani  is  the  staircase  ascending 
to  the  upper  floors ;  see  p.  263. 

The  Second  Court  (II.  Cortile) ,  formerly  the  cloisters,  con- 
tains ancient  inscriptions  and  sculptures  ;  to  the  right  (of  unknown 
origin)  :  370.  Cybelo  ;  farther  on ,  ^Esculapius ;  Selene  and  Eros 
(conceived  as  standing  before  the  sleeping  Endymion);  between 
368  and  369,  Alcaeus.  Then  small  tomb -reliefs  from  Athens; 
almost  at  the  end  of  the  wall,  small  fragment  of  a  Greek  relief  of 
a  youth  standing.  —  By  the  opposite  wall  (to  the  left  of  the  en- 
trance),  antiquities  of  Sicilian  origin  :   Fragment  of  a  tripod ,  with 


EIXN        lEBlEXO 


a  snake ;  704.  Isis ;  Phoenician  inscription  with  a  drawing  cut 
into  the  stone,  from  Lilybaeum ;  sun-dial  from  Tyndaris ;  architec- 
tural fragments  from  Solunto  ;  "Woman  sitting  between  two  lions, 
which ,  judging  from  their  coverings  in  front,  had  human  bodies, 
also  from  Solunto;  Palerman  inscriptions,  the  last  one  (390)  a 
Christian  example  of  the  year  448.  ■ —  In  front  of  the  cross-wall 
is  a  statue  of  Zeus,  from  Tyndaris,  extensively  restored;  to  the 
left,  a  seated  Jupiter,  from  Solunto;  to  the  right ,  Nerva  (?),  a 
sitting  figure  mostly  of  plaster. 

Straight  on  is  a  narrow  vestibule,  the  Saladbllb  Terkecotte, 
with  numerous  objects  in  clay  :  reliefs  and  masks,  used  as  archi- 
tectonic ornaments,  small  votive  figures  of  the  gods,  some  from  the 
6th  and  5th  cent.  B.  C. ,  also  figures  of  animals;  of  a  later  period, 
graceful  genre  compositions,  and  painted  female  figures,  resembling 
those  found  at  Tanagra  (by  the  entrance-wall,  to  the  left;  and  in 
the  2nd  case  on  the  rear-wall) ;  lamps ;  on  the  entrance-wall  (right), 
terracotta  slabs  from  the  most  antique  temples  of  Selinunto  (explan- 
atory drawings  at  the  windows).  —  In  the  centre ,  two  Roman 
marble  candelabra ;  two  Roman  statuettes  in  porphyry  and  granite 
in  the  Egyptian  style ;  between  them,  a  Greek  terracotta  sarcophagus. 


262   Route  23.  PALERMO.  Museum. 

We  now  pass  to  the  right  through  a  small  room  into  the  Sala 
dei  Musaici,  the  floor  and  walls  of  which  are  decorated  with  the  large 
stone-mosaics  found  in  the  Piazza  della  Vittoria  in  1869.  That  on 
the  floor  represents  various  mythological  subjects,  and  two  large 
heads  of  Apollo  and  *Neptune  ,  the  latter  of  which  is  particularly 
fine;  that  on  the  wall  represents  Orpheus  charming  the  animals. 
Here  also  are  three  frescoes  from  Solunto,  and  small  *Pompeian 
pictures  of  theatrical  suhjects. 

We  again  turn  to  the  right  and  enter  the  Sala  dbl  Fatjno.  In 
the  centre  is  a  fine  *Satyr  from  Torre  del  Greco.  Behind ,  head  of 
a  bearded  Bacchus  and  archaistic  statues  of  Athene  and  Aphrodite. 
—  By  the  second  wall :  cornice  with  gargoyles  in  the  form  of  lions' 
heads  (5th  cent.  B.  C.)  from  Himera;  headless  statue.  In  the  centre, 
tufa  sarcophagus  from  Girgenti.  Beside  the  door,  two  excellent 
Roman  portrait-statues  from  Tyndaris. 

The  Sala  dbllb  Metope  contains  the  celebrated  **  Metopes  of 
Selinus.  As  that  city  was  founded  in  627  B.  C.  and  destroyed  in 
429  B.  0.,  these  metopes  illustrate  the  development  of  Hellenic 
sculpture  from  its  beginning  until  a  period  shortly  before  its  cul- 
minating point.  —  To  the  left,  between  portions  of  the  massive 
entablature  (largely  restored)  of  the  oldest  temple  (see  p.  281 ; 
Temple  C),  three  Metopes  dating  from  about  600  B.  C,  and  ex- 
hibiting the  peculiar  characteristics  of  the  Doric  race  in  spite  of 
all  the  embarrassments  of  an  incipient  art.  They  consist  of  the 
same  yellow  variety  of  tufa  as  all  the  others.  Peculiarities  are  the 
exaggerated  thickness  of  the  limbs,  the  unnatural  position  of  the 
body,  seen  partly  full-face  and  partly  from  the  side,  and  the  fixed 
expression  of  face,  with  large  mouth  and  projecting  eyes.  1.  Quad- 
riga, in  almost  complete  relief;  beside  the  charioteer  ((Enomaus  V) 
remains  of  two  female  forms,  raising  garlands.  (There  is  a  similar 
relief  in  the  Sala  delle  Terrecotte,  on  the  case  to  the  left  of  the 
door.)  —  2.  Perseus,  with  helmet  and  sandals,  beheading  the  Me- 
dusa, from  whom  Pegasus  rises.  The  head  of  the  Gorgon  retains  the 
appearance  usually  assigned  to  it  at  that  period,  when  painted  on 
walls  or  vessels  to  scare  the  evil-disposed.  Behind  the  hero  stands 
Athene ,  on  whose  robe  (and  also  on  the  ground)  are  traces  of  red 
pigment.  —  3.  Hercules  Melampygos  with  the  Cercopes.  —  In  the 
cabinet,  architectural  and  sculptured  fragments  (fine  feet)  from 
Selinunto ;  iron  and  lead  fastenings  from  the  metopes. 

Beyond  a  number  of  heterogeneous  fragments ,  we  notice  the 
lower  halves  of  two  Metopes  from  a  later  temple  (F),  perhaps 
contemporaneous  with  the  sculptures  from  the  temple  of  y£gina, 
now  at  Munich,  i.  e.  about  the  beginning  of  the  5th  cent.  B.  C. 
They  represent  a  contest  between  the  gods  and  giants,  and  are 
maTked  by  vigour  and  fidelity  to  nature  (especially  the  2nd  metope). 

The  four  *Metopes  on  the  rear-wall  date  from  the  period  when 
the  art  of  sculpture  had   almost  reached  its  highest  development 


Museum. 


PALERMO. 


23.  Route.     263 


(Temple  E).  They  produce  an  exceedingly  picturesque  effect 
between  the  narrow  triglyphs,  but  although  they  reveal  skill  in 
composition  and  liveliness  of  conception,  as  well  as  a  delicacy  of 
execution  in  some  of  the  details  (the  nude  portions  of  the  female 
figures,  for  example,  are  inlaid  with  white  marble),  they  yet  fall 
shoit  of  the  freedom  of  action  and  drapery  and  in  the  sense  of 
beauty  that  characterised  Attic  Art.  • — ■  1 .  Hercules  slaying  Hippolyta ; 
*2.  Zeus  and  Hera  on  Mt.  Ida;  3.  Actaeon  and  Diana;  4.  Athene 
slaying  the  giant  Enceladus.  —  On  a  stand,  fragments  of  cornices 
with  delicate  ornamentation. 

By  the  window-wall  is  another  metope,  defaced  by  exposure, 
and  architectural  fragments  from  Selinus ,  some  of  which  bear 
traces  of  colour  (dark-red  and  blue  on  a  white  background  of  stucco). 
At  the  end  larger  fragments  from  the  so-called  ^Edicula  of  Empe- 
docles  at  Selinus,  a  chapel  of  the  5th  cent.  B.  0. 

To  the  left  of  the  entrance  are  three  Metopes  exhumed  in  1891  at 
Selinunto.  In  the  centre  of  the  room  are  a  Greek  inscription  of  the 
6th  cent.,  recounting  the  gods  who  granted  victory  to  Selinus,  and 
two  Phoenician  sarcophagi  from  Cannita,  E.  of  Palermo. 


KfflTO) 


The  next  three  rooms  contain  a  portion  of  the  collection  of 
Etruscan  sculptures  (Museo  Etrusco). 

We  now  return  to  the  first  court,  and  ascend  the  staircase  men- 
tioned at  p.  261.  (On  the  landing,  halfway  up,  to  the  right,  is  a 
room  with  modern  forged  sculptures  from  Giardini,  near  Taormina.) 

First  Floor.  We  turn  first  to  the  left  and  ascend  a  few  steps 
to  the  Sola  del  Medio  Evo:  to  the  right,  fragment  of  a  wooden  ceil- 
ing in  the  Saracenic-Norman  style,  referred  to  the  period  of  the 
Hohenstaufen  on  account  of  the  repeatedly  recurring  eagle;  majo- 
lica tiles  (about  1500);  in  the  first  glass-case,  works  in  ivory  and 
glass ;  in  the  second  case  ,  pottery  from  Palermo ;  in  the  3rd  case, 
pottery  from  Faenza  (the  largest  vessel  dates  from  1558)  and 
Urbino;  at  the  foot,  platters  from  the  Abruzzi;  in  the  4th  case, 
Palerman  pottery  of  the  17th  century.  —  On  the  rear-wall,  to  the 
left  of  the  entrance,  Neapolitan  majolica,  two  inlaid  wooden  caskets, 


264   Route  23.  PALERMO.  Museum. 

miniatures  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  a  Byzantine  evangeliarium,  with 
psalter,  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  Empress  Constance.  Arabian 
Antiquities  ('oggetti  arabi') ,  the  most  important  being  the  fine 
bronze  vessels.  Magnificent  white  and  gold  terracotta  vase  from 
Mazzara,  placed  opposite  a  wooden  door-frame  from  the  convent  of 
La  Martorana.  Fine  vessels  of  white  clay,  vessels  from  the  vaulting 
of  the  Martorana.  Among  the  bronzes  is  an  astrolabe  of  955.  In  the 
corner  two  majolica  dishes  of  the  15th  century.  At  the  top  a  cast  of 
the  Arabic  inscription  (1180)  in  La  Cuba,  mentioned  at  p.  270. 

The  next  two  rooms  contain  early  Italian  and  Netherlandish 
pictures,  modern  sculptures,  etc.,  bequeathed  by  the  late  Marchesa 
di  Torre  Orse,  Duchess  of  Serra  di  Falco. 

We  traverse  a  small  room  with  Asiatic  objects  and  reach  the 
Corkidoio  diMezzogiokno,  which  contains  portraits  and  mementoes 
of  the  revolutions  of  1848  and  1860,  and  other  periods  of  Sicilian 
history.  To  the  right:  bust  of  Juan  Fern.  Pacheco,  Marquis  of  Vil- 
lena;  portraits  of  Giacomo  Amato  (d.  1732)  the  architect,  Serpotta 
(d.  1732),  the  sculptor,  Marabitti  (d.  1797),  and  farther  on  of 
Admiral  Gravina,  who  fought  at  Trafalgar,  and  of  Ferdinand  IV., 
king  of  Naples,  at  a  tunny-fishery. 

To  the  right  is  the  Room  of  the  Antique  Bronzes.  To  the  right, 
*Hercules  and  the  Cerynitian  hind,  a  fountain-group,  excavated  at 
Pompeii  in  1805;  to  the  left,  large  *Ram,  almost  ideally  lifelike, 
said  to  have  been  at  Syracuse  since  the  11th  century.  On  the 
walls  bronze  weapons  and  vessels,  and  leaden  water-pipes. 

We  return  to  the  Greek  Vases.  In  the  first  room ,  the  oldest 
vases,  from  Gela,  are  to  the  left,  those  from  lower  Italy  to  the  right. 
—  The  place  of  origin  of  the  vases  in  the  second  room  is  given  on 
each  cabinet.  They  are  partly  Corinthian  of  the  6th  cent.  B.  C.  (those 
to  the  right,  from  Selinus),  partly  Attic  (those  to  the  left,  from 
Gela).  Among  the  Attic  vases,  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  No.  656. 
Despatch  of  Triptolemus;  1628.  Apollo  and  Artemis,  Bacchus  and 
Ariadne  (5th  and  4th  cent.  B.  C). 

The  Corridoio  di  Tramontana  contains  prehistoric  antiquities 
found  in  Sicily,  pottery,  weapons  of  the  flint  period.  Etruscan 
bronzes,  including  mirror-cases  with  reliefs  and  engraved  designs 
(Apollo  and  Artemis;  Leto  and  Thalia,  etc.);  large  lamp  from 
Selinus,  of  the  Christian  period ;  weapons  and  implements ;  caduceus 
from  Imachara;  catapult  projectiles  of  lead,  inscribed  with  the  name 
of  L.  Piso,  the  Roman  commander  in  the  Servile  War;  Phoenician 
projectiles.  —  Ivory  articles :  *'Tessera  hospitalis'  from  Lilybteum, 
bearing  two  hands  and  the  inscription  'Token  of  hospitable  alliance 
between  Himilcho  Hannibal  Chloros  and  Lycon  ,  son  of  Diognetes' ; 
also  handles  of  clay  vessels,  with  the  stamps  of  Greek  and  Phoe- 
nician factories.  —  A  door  to  the  left  opens  on  the  Collection  of 
Coins.  The  first  case  contains  impressions  in  clay  of  Greek  and 
Phoenician  seals  ,  from  Temple  C  at  Selinus.    In  the  second  case, 


Museum.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.     265 

Byzantine  and  Limoges  enamels;  antique  ornaments,  including  gold 
wreaths  from  tombs,  silver  fibulae,  rings  set  with  stones,  Byzantine 
ring  with  small  figures  in  niello.  —  On  the  other  side  of  the  case 
is  an  excellent  collection  of  ancient  Sicilian  coins. 

The  last  room  contains  ecclesiastical  objects  ;  works  in  coral  from 
Trapani,  of  the  17th  cent. ;  horse-trappings  of  the  Marquis  Villena; 
tapestry  of  the  17th  century.  —  The  chapel  at  the  end  of  the  cor- 
ridor contains  ecclesiastical  vestments  from  the  monastery  of  S.  Cita; 
and  the  Corridoio  di  Ponente,  Etruscan  antiquities  from  Chiusi. 

The  Second  Floor  contains  the  Picture  Gallery.  Catalogues 
are  attached  to  all  the  doors.  Immediately  to  the  left  are  a  few  By- 
zantine pictures:  St.  John,  Lazarus,  and  Christ  in  Hades,  12th 
cent. ;  St.  John,  Sicilian  copy,  signed  'Petrus  Lampardus'.  —  To 
the  right,  in  the  Corridoio  di  Ponente,  altarpieces  of  the  14th  and 
15th  cent.,  the  chief  of  which  is  a  Coronation  of  the  Virgin.  Most 
of  them  retain  their  old  Gothic  frames.  — At  the  end  of  the  corridor 
to  the  right,  in  the  room  of  the  patriotic  monk,  Ugo  Bassi,  shot  at 
Bologna  in  1849,  are  reproductions  of  the  mosaics  in  Monreale, 
from  the  work  of  Gravina,  whose  bust  is  also  placed  here. — In  the 
Corridoio  di  Mezzogiorno :  to  the  right,  85,  Antonio  Crescenzio (?), 
Madonna  and  saints;  165.  Oius.  Albina(ilSozzo),  Madonnabetween 
angels;  498.  Tommaso  de  Vigilia  (15th  cent.),  S.  Maria  del  Car- 
mine. To  the  left :  Antonello  Crescenzio,  rough  copy  of  Raphael's 
Spasimo;  814.  Antonio  Crescenzio  (?),  Madonna  and  S.  Rosalia. 

The  First  Room,  the  Sala  del  Romano,  principally  contains  pic- 
tures by  Vincenzo  di  Pavia  (p.  245):  91.  Scourging  of  Christ,  with 
the  inscription,  'expensis  nationis  Lombardorum,  1542';  88-93.  Six 
small  scenes  from  the  youth  of  Christ ,  the  finest  of  which  is  the 
last,  a  Presentation  in  the  Temple ;  97.  Curious  representation  of 
the  Madonna  as  the  deliverer  of  souls  from  purgatory ;  169.  St. 
Conrad,  with  predellas;  *102.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  sombre  but 
harmonious  in  colouring,  tender  in  sentiment,  and  admirably  exe- 
cuted, Vincenzo's  master-piece.  104  d.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin, 
inscribed  'Scuola  Messinese' ,  probably  of  German  origin.  103. 
St.  Thomas  Aquinas  ,  victorious  over  the  heretic  Averrhoes  ,  and 
surrounded  by  a  numerous  congregation,  by  Antonello  da  Saliba. 

The  Second  Room  ,  the  Sala  del  Novelli ,  is  chiefly  hung  with 
works  of  that  painter,  the  last  great  Sicilian  master  (p.  245),  of 
whose  style  they  afford  a  good  illustration  :  120.  Portrait  of  him- 
self; 110.  Madonna  enthroned,  with  saints;  112.  Communion  of 
Mary  Magdalene;  113.  SS.  Anna  and  Mary;  114.  Delivery  of 
Peter  from  prison.  194-196.  Remains  of  a  fresco  from  the  Spedale 
Grande;  195.  Coloured  sketch  of  the  same.  Among  Novelli's  fa- 
vourite and  frequently  recurring  types  are  remarkably  tall  and 
almost  exaggerated  forms,  especially  in  the  case  of  female  figures, 
but  in  his  delineation  of  characters  advanced  in  life  he  rivals  the 
best  masters  of  the  Neapolitan  school. 


266     Route  23.  PALERMO.  8.  Domenico. 

The  gem  of  the  collection,  a  work  of  the  highest  merit,  is  pre- 
served under  glass  in  the  Gabinetto  Malvagna  ,  adjoining  the 
Sala  del  Romano  :  59.  A  small  **Altarpiece  with  wings,  or  trip- 
tych, of  the  School  of  Van  Eyck. 

This  picture  would  not  be  unworthy  of  John  van  Eyck  himself,  but 
the  clear  colouring  and  the  miniature-like  execution  point  to  some  later 
master.  At  present  it  is  described  as  an  early  work  of  Mabuse  (1470- 
1532).  The  period  thus  selected  is  probably  right,  but  the  types  of  the 
heads  point  rather  to  Jacob  Komelissen,  an  important  Dutch  painter,  who 
has  only  of  late  become  as  well  known  as  he  deserves  to  be.  When  the 
shutters  are  closed  the  spectator  is  presented  with  a  scene  of  Adam  and 
Eve  in  a  richly  peopled  Paradise.  Adam's  head  is  very  naturalistic,  but 
the  figure  is  not  inaccurately  drawn.  In  the  background  is  an  angel  driv- 
ing the  pair  out  at  the  gate  of  Paradise.  On  the  wings  being  opened,  we 
perceive  in  the  central  scene  a  Madonna  in  a  red  robe,  enthroned  on 
a  broad  Gothic  choir-stall,  with  her  flowing  hair  covered  with  a  white 
cloth.  In  her  lap  is  the  Infant  Christ ;  on  each  side  of  her  are  angels  sing- 
ing and  playing  on  instruments,  beautiful  and  lifelike  figures.  On  the  left 
wing  is  represented  St.  Catharine,  on  the  right  wing  St.  Dorothea,  the 
former  holding  up  a  richly  executed  ring,  the  latter  with  white  and  red 
roses  in  her  lap,  and  both  with  angels  at  their  side.  The  delicate  execution 
of  the  trinkets  on  the  drapery  of  the  female  figures  and  the  pleasing  land- 
scape in  the  background  as  far  as  the  extreme  distance  are  really  admirable. 
This  is  one  of  the  very  finest  works  of  the  early  Flemish  school.  It  formerly 
belonged  to  the  Principe  di  Malvagna,  and  was  presented  to  the  museum 
as  a  'Durer'  The  brown  case,  covered  with  leather  and  adorned  with 
Gothic  ornaments,  is  probably  coeval  with  the  picture  itself. 

This  cabinet  also  contains:  Garofalo,  Madonna;  Correggio  (?), 
Head  of  Christ  fa  sketch). 

The  Third  Room  (Scuole  Diverse)  contains  nothing  of  much 
importance.  To  the  right :  202.  Vanno  Pisani,  Madonna;  73.  Barth. 
deCamulio,  Madonna  (1346)  ;  10, 14,16.  Fr.  Guard  i,  Views  in  Venice ; 
536.  Luca  Giordano,  St.  Michael;  535.  Fil.  Paladini,  St.  Michael; 
532,534.  Vasari,  Manna ;  538.  Mario  <2eJ  Pino,  Conversion  of  St.  Paul. 

The  corridor  to  the  left  contains  engravings,  and  the  rooms  be- 
hind frescoes  by  Tomrnaso  de  Vigilia  (p.  265). 

The  ViaMonteleone  leads  from  the  Piazza  dell'  Olivella  (p.  260) 
to  the  church  of  S.  Domenico  (PI.  22;  D,  4),  erected  in  1640,  and 
capable  of  accommodating  12,000  people.  It  contains  several  good 
pictures  by  Novelli  and  Vincenzo  di  Pavia,  and  the  tombs  and  mon- 
uments of  Meli,  Piazzi,  Scina,  Novelli,  Ventura,  Serradifalco,  Rug- 
gero  Settimo,  Amari,  and  numerous  other  eminent  Sicilians.  On  the 
left  corner  pillar  of  the  chapel  to  the  right  of  the  choir  is  a  very 
tasteful  relief  of  the  Madonna  by  Ant.  Gagini ,  and  to  the  right  a 
Pieta  of  his  school.  —  In  the  Via  Bambinai  behind  the  church  is 
the  Oratorio  del  SS.  Rosario  (key  at  No.  16),  with  decorations 
in  stucco  by  Serpotta,  and  an  altarpiece  by  *Van  Dyck:  Madonna 
del  Rosario.   It  also  contains  some  good  paintings  by  Novelli. 

In  the  neighbourhood  is  the  church  of  S.  Cita  (Pi.  17  .  e,  5), 
erected  in  1586,  to  the  right  of  the  choir  of  which  is  a  large  altar- 
frame  by  the  Gagini  (1535).    On  the  left,  beside  the  side-entrance 
are  three  coloured  reliefs  by  Ant.  Gagini,  representing  St.  Antony 


La  Zisa.  PALERMO.  23.  Route.   267 

with  the  Centaur,  St.  Jerome  ,  and  (above)  a  Madonna.  —  In  the 
side-street  to  the  left,  behind  S.  Cita,  is  the  Oratorio,  with  line 
stucco  decoration  by  Serpotta.  The  seats  are  inlaid  with  mother-of- 
pearl;  and  at  the  table,  near  the  entrance  ,  is  a  large  slab  of  agate. 
The  altar-piece  (II  Rosario)  is  by  C.  Maratta.  —  In  the  narrow 
street  farther  to  the  W.  is  the  church  of  8.  Niccolo  dei  Greci,  with 
Greek  'Iconostasis'. 

Opposite  the  main  portal  of  S.  Cita  rises  a  tine  Norman  arch. 
Farther  on  in  the  Via  Squarcialupo  is  the  church  of  SS.  Annunziata 
(1345),  with  a  Renaissance  facade  of  1591 ;  admission  in  the  shop  to 
the  right.  —  Then  S.  Qiorgio  dei  Genovesi  (PL  30 ;  B,  5),  a  fine  Renais- 
sance church  of  1591,  in  which  the  arches  of  the  nave  are  each  borne 
by  four  columns.  In  the  first  chapel  to  the  right:  L.  Giordano,  II  Ros- 
ario ;  at  the  high-altar,  Palma  Vecchio,  St.  George ;  above  the  en- 
trance, Paladino,  St.  Luke.  —  Close  by  in  the  Via  Principe  Scordia 
is  a  statue  of  Florio  (PL  103;  E,  5),  the  industrialist  (d.  1892), 
erected  in  1875.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  the  English  Church  (PI. 
76a;  F,  4). 

Crossing  the  Piazza  del  Castello ,  we  reach  the  harbour  of  La 
Cata  (PL  D,  5;  p.  249),  adjoining  the  Fort  Castellammare  (PI.  D, 
E,  5,  6),  which  was  almost  entirely  demolished  in  1860 ,  and  the 
little  church  of  Pie  di  Grotta,  built  in  1565  above  a  grotto  now  en- 
closed by  an  ornamental  arch.  • —  The  ViaS.  Sebastiano  leads  to  the 
church  of  5.  Maria  Nuova  (PI.  51 ;  D,  5),  restored  in  the  16th  cen- 
tury. The  vestibule  recalls  that  of  S.  Maria  della  Catena,  and  the 
interior  is  very  pleasingly  decorated  in  the  rococo  style. 


Leaving  the  Porta  d'Ossuna  (PI.  D ,  E,  2)  and  following  the 
Corso  Alberto  Amedeo  to  the  right ,  we  soon  reach,  on  the  left,  the 
Catacombs  (PI.  E,  1,  2)  discovered  in  1785,  probably  of  pre-Chris- 
tian date,  but  now  destitute  of  monuments. 

Continuing  to  follow  the  Corso  Alberto  Amedeo  to  the  Corso 
Olivuzza,  we  here  take  the  Noce  tramway  (see  p.  247)  to  the  Piazza 
Olivuzza,  a  few  yards  before  which  is  the  celebrated  Villa  Butera, 
now  the  Villa  Florio  (PL  F,  1),  with  its  fine  gardens.  In  the  Piazza 
itself  is  the  Villa  Serradifalco  (inaccessible),  also  distinguished  for 
it  luxuriant  vegetation,  now  much  neglected. 

The  Via  Normanni  leads  to  the  left  from  the  Corso  Olivuzza  to 
the  Piazza  Zisa,  with  the  old  Norman  chateau  of  La  Zisa ,  now 
belonging  to  the  Marchese  di  S.  Giovanni  (reached  from  the  Piazza 
Olivuzza  by  the  Via  "Whitaker  in  5  min.;  approach  from  the  royal 
Palace,  see  p.  250).  The  only  remains  of  the  old  building,  which 
was  erected  by  William  L,  are  a  covered  fountain  with  water 
descending  over  marble  steps  under  dilapidated  honey -combed 
vaulting ,  and  some  vaulting  with  pigeon-holes  on  the  upper  floor 
(custodian  next  door,  to  the  right;  adm.  1  fr.).  —  To  the  left  of 
La  Zisa  is  a  good  winehouse. 


268 

24.  Environs  of  Palermo. 

a.    Acquasanta.     Monte  Pellegrino.     The  Favorita. 

Distances.  From  the  Piazza  Marina  to  Acquasanta,  about  13A  M. 
(tramway,  see  p.  247).  —  From  the  Porta  S.  Giorgio  to  the  foot  of 
Monte  Pellegrino  2  M.  (one-horse  carr.  l'/2fr.);  thence  to  the  top  i1/*  hr- 
(bridle-path;  donkey  from  the  town  2'/2  fr.,  with  as  much  more  for  the 
attendant;  omnibus  from  the  Piazza  Bologni,  see  p.  247).  —  From  the 
Porta  Macqueda  to  the  Favorita  3»/2-4  M.  (omnibus  to  the  Porta  Leoni  and 
S.  Lorenzo  see  p.  217). 

The  Stkadone  delBorgo(P1.E,  F,  5),  the  "broad  road  that  leaves 
Palermo  by  the  Porta  S.  Giorgio  (PI.  E,  5)  and  skirts  the  sea,  forks 
at  the  Piazza  Ucciardone  (PL  G,  H,  5  ;  straight  on  to  the  Monte 
Pellegrino  and  the  Favorita,  see  below).  We  take  the  branch  to 
the  right  and  follow  the  Stradone  del  Molo  and  its  continuation, 
the  Via  dell'  Acquasanta,  to  the  N.,  past  the  interesting  old  English 
Cemetery,  on  the  right  (custodian  15-20  c),  to  the  village  of 
Acquasanta  (Ristor.  di  Paola),  frequented  in  summer  for  sea- 
bathing (p.  247).  A  few  min.  from  the  tramway-terminus  is  the 
entrance  to  the  *Villa  Belmonte  (custodian  30-50  c.) ,  whose  fine 
grounds  stretch  up  the  slopes  of  the  Monte  Pellegrino;  fine  *View 
from  the  top. 

From  Acquasanta  to  Valdese,  via  Arenella,  see  p.  270. 

The  continuation  of  the  Stradone  del  Borgo  again  forks  at  the 
Piazza  Giacchery  (PI.  H,  I,  5),  beside  the  Carceri  or  prison.  The 
Via  Sampoli  leads  to  the  left  to  the  Favorita  (p.  269);  the  Via  del 
Monte  Pellegrino  (PL  I,  5,  6)  to  the  right  to  the  foot  of  that  moun- 
tain, the  Punta  di  Bersaglio,  which  is  within  1/4  M.  of  Falde,  the 
omnibus-terminus  (p.  247).  Rack-and-pinion  railway  under  con- 
struction. 

The  *  Monte  Pellegrino  (2065  ft.),  the  peculiar  shape  of 
which  renders  it  easily  recognisable  from  a  great  distance,  is  an 
isolated  mass  of  limestone  rock ,  at  one  time  an  island  and  still 
separated  by  the  plain  of  the  Conca  d'Oro  from  the  other  moun- 
tains near  the  coast.  On  the  E.  side  it  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea, 
and  on  the  "W.  side  slopes  more  gently  towards  the  Conca  d'Oro. 
Down  to  the  15th  cent,  the  mountain  was  clothed  with  underwood. 
In  B.  C.  247-45  Hamilcar  Barca  settled  on  the  mountain  with  his 
soldiers  and  their  families  in  order  to  keep  the  Roman  garrison  of 
Panormus  in  check,  and  corn  was  then  cultivated  here  on  the  Heircte. 
The  fissured  cliffs  are  by  no  means  so  bare  as  they  appear  to  be 
from  a  distance.  Deposits  of  soil  have  been  formed  in  the  clefts  by 
the  gradual  disintegration  of  the  rocks,  and  on  these  flourish  various 
kinds  of  grass  and  herbs,  affording  pasture  to  large  herds  of  cattle 
and  goats  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  Numerous  dwarf- 
palms  cling  to  the  steeper  declivities,  while  the  lower  slopes  are 
occupied  by  almond  and  carob- trees.  During  the  quail-hunting 
season  the  mountain  is  enlivened  by  sportsmen,  especially  at  nieht 

The  zigzag  path,  which  is  visible  from  the  town,   cannot  be 


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MONTE  PELLEGRINO.  24.  Route.    269 

mistaken.  It  is  steep  at  first  but  afterwards  "becomes  easier.  In  about 
l3/4  hr.  we  reach  an  overhanging  rock  of  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain, which  may  also  be  reached,  though  not  without  difficulty, 
from  the  opposite  side,  under  which  is  the  Qrotto  of  St.  Rosalia, 
now  converted  into  a  church  (dwelling  of  the  'proposto'  and  priests 
on  the  left;  bell  on  the  upper  floor).  St.  Rosalia  was  according 
to  tradition  the  daughter  of  Duke  Sinibaldo  and  niece  of  the  Nor- 
man King  William  II.,  the  Good,  and  while  in  the  bloom  of  youth 
fled  hither  from  motives  of  piety.  Her  bones  were  discovered  in 
the  cavern  in  1664,  and  conveyed  to  Palermo.  Their  presence  at 
once  banished  the  plague  then  raging,  and  from  that  time  St.  Ro- 
salia has  been  the  patron  saint  of  the  city.  The  grotto  is  visited 
by  numerous  worshippers,  especially  on  Whitmonday. 

The  small  decorated  cavern  in  which  the  holy  maiden  performed  her 
devotions  is  shown  by  candle-light ;  in  front  of  it  is  a  recumbent  Statue 
of  the  Saint  by  the  Florentine  Gregorio  Tedeschi ,  with  sumptuously 
gilded  robes.  'The  head  and  hands  of  white  marble,  if  not  faultless  in 
style,  are  at  least  so  natural  and  pleasing  that  one  can  hardly  help  ex- 
pecting to  see  the  saint  breathe  and  move.1  (Goethe.)  —  The  water  which 
constantly  trickles  down  the  sides  is  carried  off  in  leaden  gutters. 

Bread  and  wine  may  be  obtained  in  the  cottage  1  min.  farther 
on  to  the  right  (dear;  bargain  beforehand).  A  steep  foot-path 
opposite  ascends  to  the  (20  min.)  Telegrafo  on  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  which  commands  an  admirable  **View  of  the  beautiful 
basin  around  Palermo,  the  numerous  headlands  of  the  N.  coast,  the 
Lipari  Islands,  and  the  distant  ^Etna.  —  A  path  leading  straight 
on  from  the  cottages  (and  joined  by  a  rough  path  from  the  Telegrafo) 
brings  us  in  20  min.  to  a  small  temple  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the 
mountain,  with  a  colossal  but  headless  statue  of  the  saint,  twice 
struck  by  lightning ;  on  the  ground  lie  the  two  heads.  *View  hence 
towards  the  sea. 

Good  walkers  may  cross  a  stretch  of  smooth  pasture-land,  to  the  W. 
of  the  houses  (enquire  for  the  beginning  of  the  path) ,  and  then  descend 
the  Valle  dei  Porci  by  very  difficult  goat-paths  towards  the  S.  W.  direct 
to  the  (3/4  hr.)  Favorita ,  which  we  reach  beside  two  round  temples  (to 
the  chateau,  straight  on);  others  will  prefer  to  retrace  their  steps  and 
descend  by  the  same  path. 

In  the  Conca  d'Oro,  at  the  base  of  Monte  Pellegrino  on  the 
W.  side,  and  4  M.  from  the  Porta  Macqueda,  is  situated  the  royal 
chateau  of  La  Favorita,  surrounded  by  numerous  villas  of  the 
aristocracy  of  Palermo.  This  beautiful  country-residence  was  erected 
by  Ferdinand  IV.  in  the  Chinese  style,  and  is  surrounded  by  shady 
walks  and  extensive  grounds  (open  to  the  public ;  omnibus  to  the 
Leoni  Gate,  whence  the  chateau  is  reached  by  the  main  walk 
through  the  park  in  3/4  hr.;  pleasant  drive).  Splendid  *View  from 
the  roof.  From  the  chateau  a  walk  of  about  8  min.  to  S.  Lorenzo, 
whence  we  may  return  by  omnibus ,  past  (V2  ar0  the  Villa  Sofia, 
with  a  beautiful  garden,  the  property  of  Mr.  R.  Whitaker,  containing 
a  collection  of  orchids  (adm.  usually  granted  on  Mon.  and  Frid.  on 
application  to  the  director). 


270   Route  24.  LA  CUBA.  Environs 

Travellers  interested  in  agriculture  may  now  visit  the  lstituto  Agrario, 
founded  by  the  minister  Carlo  Cottone  (p.  260). 

This  excursion  may  be  pleasantly  extended  to  the  beautiful  Bay  of 
Mondello,  with  a  sandy  beach  admirably  adapted  for  bathing  (Valdese  Inn, 
near  the  pine-tree,  bread  and  wine),  passing  Palavicini,  where  a  small 
art-collection  in  the  villa  of  Prince  Scalea  may  be  visited  on  Mon.  from 
2  to  6  p.m.  The  village  of  Mondello  lies  IV2  M,  farther  on,  but  is  seldom 
visited.  —  A  picturesque  footpath  leads  from  the  Valdese  Inn  by  the  beach, 
skirting  the  Mte.  Pellegrino,  to  (472  M.)  Acquasanta  (p.  268). 

b.  La  Cuba.  Monreale.  S.  Martino. 

Distance  to  Monreale  about  41/2  M.  Tkamway  (p.  247)  from  the  Piazza 
Vittoria  as  far  as  (2y2  M.)  La  Rocca,  where  the  road  begins  to  ascend  (fare 
20  c).  Carriages  are  always  to  be  had  here  (one-horse  carr.  to  Monreale 
l'/2,  there  and  back  2l/z  fr.,  comp.  p.  247).  The  ascent  of  the  hill  thence 
is  a  pleasant  walk  of  3/4  hr.  —  The  following  tour ,  occupying  4-5  hrs. 
exclusive  of  the  halt  in  Monreale,  is  also  recommended.  Take  the 
tramway  to  Porrazzi  (p.  247;  No.  6),  walk  by  the  Parco  road  to  a  point 
above  the  Villa  delle  Qrazie  (fine  views),  thence  strike  through  the  Oreto 
valley  and  ascend  to  Monreale.    Return  by  tramway  from  La  Rocca. 

Those  who  purpose  proceeding  from  Monreale  to  S.  Martino  (p.  272), 
about  3  M.  farther  (steep  track,  suitable  for  walkers  only),  will  do  well 
to  take  a  supply  of  provisions  with  them.  Donkey  at  Monreale  (not  always 
to  be  had),  272-372  fr.  A  good  carriage-road  leads  from  S.  Martino  back 
to  Rocca  via  Boccadifalco  (p.  272).  Those  who  are  not  afraid  of  the  un- 
comfortable descent  to  Monreale  are  advised  to  make  this  whole  excursion 
in  the  reverse  direction.  Carriage  and  pair  (good  but  hilly  road)  from 
Palermo  to  <S.  Martino  via  Boccadifalco ,  including  a  digression  to  Baida 
(p.  273),  about  15  fr.  and  fee;  carr.  much  cheaper  at  Rocca  (bargaining 
advisable). 

Porta  Nuova  (PI.  C,  D,  1),  see  p.  252.  The  perfectly  straight 
prolongation  of  the  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele  ,  called  the  Corso  Cala- 
taflmi,  leads  to  Monreale.  On  the  right  is  situated  the  extensive 
poor-house  (Albergo  de'  Poveri). 

A  little  farther  on,  ahout  V2  M.  from  the  gate,  on  the  left,  is  a 
cavalry-barrack ,  in  the  court  of  which  is  the  old  chateau  of  La 
Cuba.  (Visitors  apply  to  the  sentinel  and  walk  in.)  On  the  frieze 
is  a  now  illegible  Arabic  inscription,  from  which  it  is  conjectured, 
that  the  building  was  erected  by  William  II.  in  1180.  Of  the  once 
splendid  decorations  of  the  interior  nothing  now  remains  but  a  few 
blackened  remains  of  a  honeycombed  vaulting  and  arabesques  in  a 
small  court.  The  palace  was  once  surrounded  by  an  extensive  park 
with  fish-ponds.  A  pavilion  once  belonging  to  it  is  no  w  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  street  in  the  orange-garden  of  the  Cavaliere  Napoli  (farther 
on,  No.  421,  beyond  the  street  leading  to  the  Oappuccini) ,  and  is 
called  La  Cubola  (Decamerone,  V.  6) ;  admission  on  ringing  (fee). 

The  Strada  di  Pindemonte ,  which  diverges  to  the  Tight  about 
250  paces  farther  on,  leads  to  the  (V3  M.)  Convento  de'  Cappuccini, 
in  the  subterranean  corridors  of  which  are  preserved  the  mummified 
bodies  of  wealthy  inhabitants  of  Palermo.  This  method  of  inter- 
ment is  now  prohibited  by  government.  This  sad,  but  not  un- 
interesting spectacle  should  be  seen  by  the  curious.  (The  route 
hence  to  La  Zisa ,  1/3  M. ,  is  by  the  Via  de'  Oipressi,  and  then  by 
the  first  road  to  the  left;  see  p.  267.) 


of  Palermo.  MONREALE.  24.  Route.     271 

On  the  left  side  of  the  Monreale  road  we  next  pass  the  Giar- 
dino  d'Acclimazione ,  laid  out  in  1861  for  agricultural  purposes. 
On  the  same  side  ,  1^2  M.  from  the  Porta  Nuova,  are  the  iron  gate 
and  Swiss  lodge  (No.  422)  at  the  entrance  to  the  charming  *Villa 
Tasca,  the  property  of  Conte  Tasca,  one  of  the  first  systematic 
farmers  of  Sicily,  who  possesses  an  experimental  station  here.  The 
fine  park  is  surrounded  by  extensive  kitchen-gardens,  which  must 
first  be  traversed  by  visitors  (straight  on  from  the  road,  then  to 
the  right;  carriages  may  drive  to  the  entrance  proper  of  the  villa; 
30-50  c.  to  the  custodian  on  leaving).  The  garden,  which  is  almost 
tropical  in  the  luxuriance  of  its  flora,  contains  numerous  palm- 
trees.  The  small  temple  in  the  garden  commands  an  admirable 
*  View  of  the  Oreto  valley  and  Monreale. 

The  group  of  houses  at  the  base  of  the  height  of  Monreale  is 
called  La  Rocca  (tramway -terminus  ;  Tratt.  de' Fiori).  The  road, 
constructed  by  the  celebrated  Abp.  Testa  of  Monreale,  ascends  in 
windings  to  the  'royalmount' (1150ft.),  on  which  in  11 74  William II. 
founded  a  Benedictine  abbey,  and  in  1174-89  erected  the  famous  — 

**  Cathedral  of  Monreale,  around  which  a  town  (Albergo  Pietro 
Novelli,  tolerable)  of  16,500  inhab.  has  sprung  up  since  the  sec- 
ond archbishopric  in  the  island  was  transferred  hither.  The  beg- 
gars in  the  town  are  often  very  importunate. 

The  church  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  334  ft.  long  and 
131  ft.  wide,  with  three  apses.  The  outside  of  the  choir  is  especi- 
ally beautiful.  The  entrance  is  flanked  by  two  square  towers.  The 
magnificent  portal  possesses  admirable  *Bronze  Doors  dating  from 
1186,  executed  by  'Bonannus  Civis  Pisanus',  and  adorned  with 
reliefs  from  sacred  history.  The  bronze  doors  of  the  side-portals  are 
by  Barisano  (p.  197)  and  date  from  about  the  same  period.  The 
edifice  was  seriously  damaged  by  a  fire  in  1811,  but  has  been  well 
restored ;  the  cost  of  the  handsome  timber-work  was  defrayed  by 
King  Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria. 

"Interior.  The  pointed  vaulting  of  the  nave  is  supported  by  eighteen 
columns  of  granite.  The  transept ,  approached  by  five  steps,  is  borne  by 
four  pillars.    The  pointed  vaulting  is  constructed  quite  in  the  Arabian  style. 

The  *  Mosaics  with  which  the  walls  are  entirely  covered  occupy  an 
area  of  70,400  sq.  ft.,  and  consist  of  three  different  classes:  scenes  from 
the  Old  Testament  (prophecies  of  the  Messiah),  from  the  life  of  the 
Saviour,  and  from  the  lives  of  the  Apostles.  The  nave  contains  Old  Testa- 
ment subjects  down  to  the  Wrestling  of  Jacob  with  the  Angel,  in  two  rows 
of  twenty  tableaux.  Each  aisle  contains  nine,  and  each  transept  fifteen 
scenes  from  the  history  of  Christ.  On  the  arches  of  the  transept  are 
subjects  from  the  life  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul.  In  the  tribune  is  the  bust  of 
Christ  (with  the  inscription ,  /.  Xq.  <5  naviovQU'ibiQ)  \  below  it  a  Madonna  in 
Trono  with  two  angels  and  the  Apostles  at  the  side ;  under  these  are 
fourteen  saints.  In  the  niches  at  the  sides  Peter  and  Paul.  Above  the 
royal  throne  is  pourtrayed  King  William  in  the  act  of  receiving  the  crown 
direct  from  Christ  (not  from  the  pope !)  \  above  the  archiepiscopal  seat 
he  is  represented  as  offering  a  view  of  the  cathedral  to  the  Virgin.  — 
In  the  right  transept  are  the  tombs  of  William  I.  and  William  II.  The 
monument  of  the  former  is  a  sarcophagus  of  porphyry,  like  those  in  the 
Cathedral  at  Palermo ;  that  of   the   latter  was   erected  in  1575.  —  The  N. 


272   Route  2d.  S.  MARTINO.  Environs 

aisle  contains  the  Cappella  del  Crocefisso,  of  1690,  with  fine  wood-carvings 
from  the  history  of  the  Passion.  In  the  S.  aisle  is  the  Cappella  di  S. 
Benedetto,  with  reliefs  in  marble  of  the  18th  century.  These  chapels 
are  opened  by  the  verger  (1  fr.,  including  ascent  to  the  roof). 

The  visitor  should  not  omit  to  ascend  to  the  roof  of  the  cathedral 
for  the  sake  of  the  "View  it  affords.  The  entrance  to  the  staircase  is  in 
a  corner  at  the  beginning  of  the  S.  aisle  (172  steps  to  the  top). 

Adjoining  the  cathedral  is  the  former  Benedictine  Monastery, 
which  William  supplied  with  monks  from  La  Cava  (entrance  by 
No.  33,  the  large  central  door  in  the  piazza  which  lies  in  front  of  the 
church;  adm.  1/2  **•)•  Of  the  original  building  nothing  is  now  left 
except  the  remarkably  beautiful  *Cloisters,  the  pointed  arches  of 
which  are  adorned  with  mosaics  and  supported  by  216  columns  in 
pairs;  the  *Capitals  are  all  different,  and  the  richly  ornamented  shafts 
also  vary  (date  1200).  The  9th  column  from  the  E.,  on  the  N.  side, 
bears  a  mason's  inscription  of  1228.  The  S.  side  of  the  cloisters 
is  overshadowed  by  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  monastery-wall,  with 
pointed  arches.  The  garden  commands  a  delightful  *View  of  the 
valley  towards  Palermo.  The  fragrance  of  the  orange-blossom  here 
in  spring  is  almost  overpowering.  The  modern  part  of  the  monastery 
(now  fitted  up  as  schools),  which  we  first  reach  from  the  piazza,  con- 
tains a  handsome  marble  staircase  adorned  with  a  picture  by  Pietro 
Novelli  (St.  Benedict  and  the  heads  of  the  Benedictine  order ;  p .  245). 

From  Monreale  a  steep  path  to  the  right  (Le  Scale),  with  an 
admirable  *View  of  the  Oreto  valley,  Palermo,  and  the  sea  (best 
towards  evening),  ascends  in  ll/t  hr.  to  the  top  of  the  hill  which  is 
crowned  by  II  Casteliaccio,  a  deserted  fort  (10  min.  to  the  right  of 
the  highest  point  of  the  path) ,  commanding  a  still  more  extensive 
view.  "We  then  descend  to  the  suppressed  Benedictine  monastery 
of  S.  Martino ,  founded  by  Gregory  the  Great  in  the  6th  cent. , 
and  affording  another  fine  *View.  Handsome  entrance-hall.  The 
monastery  is  now  occupied  by  an  agricultural  institution.  The 
vegetation  here  in  spring,  including  numerous  fine  orchids,  is  very 
luxuriant. 

The  church  contains  a  fresco  by  Vincenzo  Romano  and  fine  choir-stalls 
of  1557.  With  the  library  of  the  monastery  is  connected  the  reminiscence 
of  the  extraordinary  historical  forgeries  of  the  Abbate  Giuseppe  Vella, 
who  had  founded  a  history  of  Sicily  on  a  forged  Arabic  MS.,  but  was 
detected  by  Hager  of  Milan ,  the  Orientalist,  in  1794.  —  Wine  is  sold  at 
the  houses  above  the  monastery. 

From  San  Martino  we  descend  in  1  hr.  (up  l»/2  hr.)  through  a 
narrow  and  somewhat  monotonous  valley  to  Boccadifalco ,  pictur- 
esquely situated  among  rocks.  A  carriage-road  also  leads  hither  direct 
from  Palermo,  beginning  at  the  Porta  Nuova  and  passing  the 
Capuchin  monastery  (p.  270)  and  the  village  of  Altar ello  di  Baida, 
containing  remains  of  Mimnermum,  a  palace  founded  by  Roger. 
A  pleasant  and  picturesque  road  (V2  nT-)  leads  from  Boccadifalco 
along  the  heights  to  La  Rocca  (p.  271).  Martino  is  about  4  M. 
from  La  Rocca.  An  equally  pleasant  footpath  leads  up  the  hillside 
to  Monreale.  —  Another  fine  *Route,  commanding  a  splendid  view 


of  Palermo.  S.  MARIA  DI  GESU.  2d.  Route.    273 

of  the  plain  and  the  sea,  leads  N.W.  from  Boccadifalco  to  the  former 
convent  of  Baida,  founded  by  Manfred  Chiaramonte  in  1388  for  the 
Cistercians,  and  afterwards  occupied  by  Franciscan  Minorites.  Here 
in  the  10th  cent,  lay  Baidha  ('the  white'),  a  Saracenic  village  which 
was  connected  with  Palermo  by  a  row  of  houses.  The  terrace  affords 
a  fine  view.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  not  easily  accessible  stalactite  cavern 
of  Quattro  Arie.  Farther  on,  by  the  Passo  di  Rigano,  we  reach  Noce, 
whence  a  tramway-line  (p.  247)  runs  to  Palermo,  crossing  the 
Piazza  Olivuzza.  Visit  to  the  Villa  Butera  and  La  Zisa,  see  p.  267. 

c.    Farco. 

The  high-road  to  Corleone,  leaving  Palermo  at  the  Piazza  dell' 
Indipendenza  (Strada  dei  Pisani,  PL  0,  1 ;  tramway,  see  p.  247), 
leads  past  Porrazzi  and  Portella  to  the  (2^2  M.)  Ponte  delle  Orazie 
over  the  Oreto,  and  then  ascends  to  Orazia  Vecchia.  Thence  a 
picturesque  road  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  (6  M.)   the  little  town  of  — 

Farco,  near  which  William  II.  enclosed  extensive  hunting- 
parks.  The  abbey-church  of  S.  Maria  di  Altofonte,  founded  by 
Frederick  II.  of  Aragon  ,  contains  a  relief  of  the  Madonna  (1328; 
above  an  altar  on  the  right).  The  view  of  Palermo  from  a  little 
beyond  Parco  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Sicily. 

A  road,  commanding  magnificent  views  (short-cuts  for  walkers  usually 
impassable  after  rain)  leads  from  Parco  through  the  deep  fertile  valley 
of  the  Oreto  to  (iy2  hr.)  Monreale  (p.  271). 

Piana  dei  Oreci,  6  M.  farther  on,  was  an  Albanian  colony,  found- 
ed in  1488,  and  at  certain  festivals  handsome  costumes  are  still 
seen  here. 

Proceeding  to  the  E.  from  Grazia  Vecchia  (see  above)  and  skirt- 
ing the  foot  of  the  hill,  we  return  to  Palermo  via  the  Villa  Orazia, 
Falsomiele,  and  the  Corso  dei  Mille  (PL  A,  4).  This  is  the  so-called 
'Giro  delle  Grazie'. 

A  little  heyond  Falsomiele  a  road  ascends  to  the  right  to  S.  Maria  di 
Gesii  (see  below) ,  a  visit  to  which  may  thus  be  combined  with  that  to 
Parco  by  travellers  whose  time  is  limited. 

d.  S.  Maria  di  Gesu.    Favara.    Campo  Sant'  Orsola. 

One-horse  carriage  to  (3  M.)  S.  Maria  di  Gesu,  2>/2  fr.  The  best  route 
from  the  centre  of  Palermo  is  by  the  Porta  S.  Antonino  (PI.  B,  3,  4)  and  the 
Via  Oreto;  from  the  Piazza  dell'  Indipendenza  by  the  Via  Filicuzza  (P1.A,B,2). 

The  road  crosses  the  Oreto  and  gradually  ascends  to  — 

*S.  Maria  di  Gesu  (165  ft.  above  the  sea),  formerly  a  Minorite 
monastery,  which  commands  one  of  the  finest  views  of  Palermo,  with 
the  Monte  Pellegrino  in  the  background,  and  is  a  favourite  point 
with  artists  and  photographers.  The  cemetery  of  the  monastery  con- 
tains the  burial-places  of  many  Palermo  families.  If  the  iron  gate 
above,  to  the  left,  be  locked,  we  skirt  the  outside  of  the  cemetery 
to  the  left  to  the  whitewashed  loggia  of  a  conspicuous  chapel  (with 
the  remains  of  mural  paintings  of  the  15th  cent.),  which  is  the  finest 
point  of  view. 

Baedeker.     Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  \Q 


274    Route  24.  LA  FA  VARA.  Environs 

In  the  Monte  Griffone,  s/4  M.  from  S.  Maria  di  Gesii,  is  the  Grolta  de* 
Giganti,  or  di  S.  Giro  (from  the  neighbouring  church),  a  cave  well  known  to 
palaeontologists  as  a  fertile  source  of  fossil  bones,  which  it  still  contains  in 
great  quantities.  The  cave  is  very  dirty.  Children  at  the  entrance  offer  bones 
and  teeth  for  sale.     Near  it  are  three  arches  of  some  mediaeval  building. 

The  road  to  the  village  of  Belmonle  or  Mezzagno  ascends  gradually, 
affording  a  succession  of  fine  views.  Halfway  it  passes  the  village  of  Gi- 
bilrossa ,  where  a  monument,  erected  in  1882,  commemorates  the  fact  that 
Garibaldi's  camp  was  pitched  here  in  I860,  before  the  capture  of  Palermo. 
With  this  excursion  may  be  combined  the  attractive  ascent  of  the  Monte 
Grifone  (2550  ft.),  whence  we  may  descend  to  Belmonte  or  Misilmeri  (p.  289). 

Not  far  from  the  above-mentioned  Grotta  de'  Giganti,  to  the  left 
of  the  road  and  close  to  the  village  of  Brancaccio,  are  the  remains 
of  the  Saracenic  Norman  chateau  of  La  Favara  the  magnificence  of 
which  has  been  highly  extolled  by  Arabian  and  Jewish  travellers  of 
the  middle  ages,  and  where  Frederick  II.  held  his  court.  The  build- 
ing ,  which  has  been  built  up  on  two  sides ,  is  now  called  the 
Castello  di  Mare  Dolce,  from  a  pool  at  the  base  of  Mte.  Griffone, 
whence  a  water-channel  has  been  constructed  past  the  Favara  to 
Brancaccio.  From  Brancaccio  we  may  return  to  Palermo  over  the 
Ponte  dell'  Ammiraglio  (see  below)  and  thence  by  the  Corso  dei  Mille 
(PI.  A,  4). 

The  Via  de'  Vespri  (PI.  A,  2,  3)  leads  in  about  V4  hr.  from  the 
Porta  S.  Agata  (PI.  B,  3)  to  the  Campo  Sant'  Orsola  or  Campo  di 
S.  Spirito,  the  old  cemetery,  laid  out  in  1782.  (The  new  cemetery 
lies  on  the  N.E.  side  of  M.  Pellegrino.)  In  1173  Walter  of  the  Mill 
founded  a  Cistercian  monastery  here,  and  near  it,  on  31st  March, 
1282,  began  the  massacre  of  the  Sicilian  Vespers,  during  which 
the  bell  of  S.  Giovanni  degli  Eremiti  was  tolled.  The  church  of 
S.  Spirito,  which  was  thoroughly  restored  in  1882,  has  thick  pillars 
resembling  those  in  the  English  churches  of  the  early  middle  ages, 
and  pointed  arches  also  diverging  entirely  from  the  usual  type.  Near 
the  church  is  a  stone  commemorating  the  Vespers. 

e.    Bagheria.  Solunto. 

Railway  to  Bagheria  (from  the  main  railway  station,  see  p.  247), 
in  Vinr  (fares  1  fr.  60,  1  fr.  15.  or  75  c);  to  S.  Flavia  (slow  trains  only), 
fares  1  fr.  85,  1  fr.  30,  85  c.  The  excursion  to  Solunto  and  Bagheria  may  be 
accomplished  on  foot  in  5  hrs.;  that  to  Solunto  alone  from  S.  Flavia  in 
2  hrs.  The  two  excursions  may  be  combined  by  proceeding  direct  from 
Villa  Valguarnera  to  (V2  hr.)  S.  Flavia  (seat  in  a  carriage  usually  to  be 
obtained).  Travellers  may  then  proceed  to  Cefalu  Catania,  or  Girgenti. 
—  Carriage  and  pair  to  Bagheria  and  Soluntum  in  6-8  hrs.,  15-20fr.,  carr. 
with  one-horse  10  fr.,  a  charming  drive.  Luncheon  should  be  carried  with 
the  party. 

A  short  distance  from  the  town  the  railway  crosses  the 
Oreto,  beyond  which,  to  the  left  below  us,  we  observe  the  lofty 
arch  of  the  now  abandoned  Ponte  dell'  Ammiraglio ,  constructed 
in  1113  by  the  admiral  Georgios  Antiochenos.  Immediately  ad- 
joining it  are  the  ruins  (completely  concealed  by  other  buildings) 
of  the  most  ancient  Norman  church  in  Sicily,  San  Giovanni  dei 
Leprosi,  fomided  in  1071  by  Roger.    Here,  in  B.C.  251,  the  consul 


of  Palermo.  SOLUNTUM.  24.  Route.   275 

Metellus  defeated  the  Carthaginians,  and  captured  120  elephants. 
In  the  neighbouring  bay  the  French  admiral  Duquesne  nearly  anni- 
hilated the  united  Dutch  and  Spanish  fleets  in  1673.  In  the  fertile 
coast-district  the  Saracens  once  cultivated  the  sugar-cane.  On  the 
right  rises  the  Monte  Griffone  (p.  274). 

Between  (5  M.)  Fic.arazzelli  and  (6  M.J  Ficarazzi  continuous 
*View  to  the  left  of  the  sea  and  Monte  Pellegrino. 

8  M.  Bagheria,  or  Bagaria  (Albergo  Verdone,  near  the  middle 
of  the  main  street ,  with  good  trattoria) ,  a  country  -  town  with 
11,600  inhab.,  contains  many  villas  of  Sicilian  nobles,  now  deserted. 
We  turn  to  the 'right  from  the  station,  and  then  to  the  left,  by 
the  long  main  street,  towards  a  portico  of  three  arches,  through 
which  we  pass.  A  little  farther  on  we  pass  through  a  gateway, 
with  weatherbeaten  and  unattractive  sculptures  of  last  century. 
Straight  on  is  the  lower  entrance  to  the  Villa  Palagonfy,  which  like  the 
Villa  Butera,  contains  a  few  fantastic  works  of  art.  If  this  entrance 
be  closed  we  proceed  to  the  right  round  the  building  to  the  upper 
entrance.  Opposite  this  latter  is  the  road  leading  to  the  Villa  Val- 
guarnera,  which  merits  a  visit  for  the  sake  of  the  magnificent  *View 
from  the  terrace  and  from  the  adjacent  Montagnuola,  a  hill  reached 
in  about  10  min.  from  the  garden  (fee  30-50  c).  The  station  of 
S.  Flavia  lies  about  IV4  M.  to  the  E.  from  the  entrance  to  the  villa. 

10  M.  Santa  Flavia.  Phoenician  tombs,  probably  of  the  Cartha- 
ginian period,  were  discovered  here  in  1864,  to  the  right  of  the 
railway.  —  (Journey  hence  to  Girgenti,  see  R.  27.) 

Leaving  the  station,  we  turn  to  the  right  (the  first  house  on  the  left 
is  an  Osteria,  where  good  wine  may  be  obtained,  and  where  lunch  may 
be  taken).  In  1  min.  more  we  cross  the  line  to  the  right  and  in  4  min. 
reach  a  red  house  on  the  left,  inscribed  'Antichita  di  Solunto',  the 
custodian  of  which  acts  as  guide.  "We  traverse  a  garden,  and  then 
follow  a  steep  and  sunny  road  leading  in  1/2  hr.  to  the  ruins  of  Solus, 
Soloeis ,  or  Soluntum,  situated  on  the  eastmost  hill  of  the  Monte 
Catalfano.  The  town  was  originally  a  Phoenician  settlement,  but 
the  ruins  date  from  Roman  times.  The  name  of  the  present  town, 
which  lies  on  the  coast,  2 1/4  M.  farther  to  the  S.,  is  Solanto.  Nearly 
the  whole  of  the  ancient  paved  causeway,  ascending  the  hill  in  zig- 
zags, has  been  brought  to  light.  "We  turn  to  the  left  at  a  carob-tree 
(Ital.  carrubo),  and  then  see  to  the  right  the  ancient  main  street. 
The  town  was  very  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  running  from 
E.  to  "W.  and  N.  to  S.,  and  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  A 
narrow  passage  was  left  between  the  backs  of  the  rows  of  houses  to 
allow  the  water  to  escape  from  the  hill ,  which  is  so  steep  as  to 
have  necessitated  the  construction  of  flights  of  steps  in  some  of 
the  streets.  The  internal  arrangement  of  several  of  the  houses  is 
still  recognisable.  Part  of  the  colonnade  of  a  large  house  has  been 
re-erected  by  Prof.  Cavallari ,  and  is  now  named  the  'Gymnasium'. 
Though  the  ruins  are  scanty,  admirable  *Views  are  enjoyed  from 

18* 


276    Route  24.  USTICA. 

the  top  of  the  hill,  embracing  the  bay  of  Palermo  and  the  Conca 
d'Oro  to  the  W.,  and  to  the  E.,  the  coast  to  a  point  beyond  Cefalu 
and  the  Madonia  Mts.  (p.  308),  snow-clad  in  winter.  The  steep 
promontory  to  the  N.  is  Cape  Zafferana ;  on  the  shore  below  lie  S. 
Elia  and  Porticella.  Towards  the  E.,  where  the  Tonnara  di  Sdlanto 
(tunny-fishery,  p.  290)  is  situated,  lay  the  harbour  of  the  town. 

Good  walkers  may  descend  the  steep  hill  to  Bagheria  either  by  a 
direct  and  easy  footpath  from  S.  Flavia,  or  round  the  promontory  and 
through  the  village  of  Aspra,  which  lies  on  the  sea. 

Farther  up  the  brook  Bagheria  (the  ancient  Eleutheros),  i  M.  to  the 
E.  of  Portella  di  Mare,  once  lay  a  large  Phoenician  town,  afterwards  a 
Saracenic  stronghold,  called  Kasr-Sdd,  now  the  village  of  Cannita.  The 
Grseco-Phcenician  sarcophagi  of  the  museum  of  Palermo  were  found  here. 

From  Palermo  an  excursion  may  be  made  by  steamboat  in  4  hrs. 
(every  Wed.,  fare  71/2  fr.)  to  the  island  of  TJstica,  37'/2  M.  distant,  and 
10  M.  in  circumference.  Its  principal  mountains  are  the  Falconiera  on 
the  E.  and  the  Quadriga  di  Mezzo  (720  ft.)  to  the  W.  The  island  was 
colonised  by  the  Phoenicians  in  ancient  times ,  and  was  subsequently 
taken  by  the  Romans.  During  the  middle  ages  it  was  but  thinly  peopled. 
As  lately  as  1762  the  whole  population  was  murdered  or  carried  off  by 
pirates.  The  number  of  inhab.  is  now  1600,  many  of  whom  are  prison- 
ers sentenced  to  banishment  here  ^Domicilio  coatto').  The  caverns  are 
interesting  to  geologists.    Fossil  conchylia  are  also  found  in  the  island. 

25.   From  Palermo  to  Trapani. 

121  M.  Railway  in  7-8  hrs.  (fares  22  fr.  5,  15  fr.  45,  9  fr.  95  c).  To 
Alcamo  -  Calatifimi  (the   station  for  Segesta) ,  52  M. ,   in  3'/4  hrs.  (9  fr.  50, 

6  fr.  65,  3  fr.  40  c);  to  Castelvetrano  (station  for  Selinunto),  75  M.,  in 
4V2-5l/4  brs.  (13  fr.  70,  9  fr.  60,  4  fr.  85  c).  By  starting  with  the  early  train 
(about  5  a.m.)  from  Palermo,  travellers  may  easily  visit  the  ruins  of  Se- 
gesta and  then  proceed  in  the  afternoon  to  Castelvetrano  or  return  to 
Palermo.  If  provisions  are  not  taken  from  Palermo  arrangements  should 
be  made  to  dine  at  Calataflmi ,  whence  a  diligence  in  connection  with 
the  train  starts  about  IV2  hr.  before  the  departure  of  the  latter. 

The  Steamers  of  the  Florio-Rubattino  Co.  (Palermo -Siracusa,  Costa 
Sud,  line)  leave  Palermo  on  Fridays  about  9  a.m. ,  and  arrive  at  Tra- 
pani about  3.30  p.m. ;  they  start  again  at  3  a.m.  on  Saturday,  reaching 
Marsala  at  5  a.m.  (stay  of  1  hr.),  Mazzara  at  6.  45  a.m.  (3/t  hr.),  Sciacca 
10.30  a.m.  (1  hr.),  Porto  Empedocle  (for  Girgenti)  2.30  p.m.  (1  hr.),  Palma 
4.  30  p.m.  (1  hr.),  and  Licata  7.10p.m.;  the  journey  is  continued  hence 
on  Sunday  at  4  a.m.;  Terranova  5.20  a.m.  (3/4  hr.);  Scoglitti  8  a.m. 
(lhr.);  Pozzallo  12.  15  p.m.  (l'/2hr.);  arrival  at  Syracuse  7  p.m.  —  In  the 
reverse  direction:  departure  from  Syracuse,  Mon.  11  p.m. ;  from  Pozzallo, 
Tues.  5  a.m.;  from  Scoglitti  9  a.m.;  from  Terranova  11a.m.;  Licata  1.30 
p.m. ;  Palma  4  p.m. ;  Porto  Empedocle  6.  20  p.m. ;  Sciacca  Wed.  1  a.  m. ; 
Mazzara  5  a.  m.  ;    Marsala   8  a.m. ;  Trapani   1  p.m. ;    arrival  in  Palermo 

7  p.m.  —  As,  however,  the  S.  coast  of  Sicily  is  difficult  to  navigate,  the 
punctuality  of  the  steamers  cannot  be  depended  on.  —  The  steamboat  for 
Tunis ,  mentioned  at  p.  380,  leaving  Palermo  on  Tues.  at  10  p.m.,  also 
touches  at  Trapani  (Wed.  4  a.m.),  and  at  Marsala,  which  it  reaches  on 
Wed.  at  4  p.m. 

The  train  starts  from  the  principal  station  (PI.  A,  4),  but  also 
stops  at  the  (372  M.)  station  in  the  Via  Lolli  (comp.  p.  246).  It 
then  first  runs  towards  the  N.,  traversing  the  Conca  d'Oro.  To  the 
left  are  the  Monti  Billiemi,  to  the  right  the  Monte  Pellegrino. 
Beyond  (7i/2  M.)  S.  Lorenzo  the  train  turns  to  the  W.  and  enters 
a  mountainous  district.    10  M.  Tommaso  Natale ;  11  M.  Sferraca- 


ALCAMO.  25.  Route.    277 

vallo  (tunnel);  11*- fa  M.  JsoZa  deWe  Femmine.  The  railway  now 
skirts  the  coast  for  some  distance.  To  the  left  lie  (14  M.)  Capaci 
and  (17  M.)  Carini.  The  latter,  picturesquely  situated  near  the 
sea,  was  formerly  the  free  Sicanian  town  of  Hyceara,  whence  in 
415  the  Athenians  are  said  to  have  carried  off  the  celebrated  cour- 
tezan La'is,  then  a  girl  of  twelve  years.  The  train  then  runs  at  the 
base  of  Monte  Orso  (2885  ft.),  which  rises  on  the  left.  —  24  M. 
Cinisi  -  Terrasini ;  both  the  villages  lie  at  some  distance  from  the 
station.  Beyond  (31  M.)  Zucco  the  train  crosses  the  generally  dry 
bed  of  the  Nocella  and  reaches  — 

33  M.  Partinico  (620  ft.).  The  town,  with  upwards  of  20,000 
inhab. ,  a  trade  in  wine  and  oil,  and  several  manufactories,  lies 
considerably  to  the  left  of  the  station. 

Beyond  Partinico  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel  and  crosses 
the  Oallinella,  a  little  above  its  mouth.  —  38  M.  Trappeto.  — 
39Y2  M.  Balestrate  ,  on  a  spacious  bay,  bounded  on  the  E.  by  the 
Capo  di  Rama  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Capo  S.  Vito.  The  train  runs 
near  the  sea ,  and  crosses  the  Fiume  S.  Bartolommeo  ,  which  is 
formed  by  the  union  of  the  Fiume  Freddo  and  the  Fiume  Caldo. 

4572  M.  Castellammare  (officially,  Castellammare  del  Qolfo). 
The  town  (13,000  inhab.),  which  was  once  the  seaport  of  Segesta  and 
still  carries  on  a  considerable  trade,  lies  3  M.  from  the  railway,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Fiume  S.  Bartolommeo.  Beyond  Castellammare 
the  train  quits  the  coast,  and  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Fiume  Freddo 
towards  the  S.    Three  tunnels. 

52  M.  Alcamo  -  Calatafimi.  The  station  lies  between  Alcamo 
and  Calatafimi,  about  5  M.  distant  from  each.  Vehicles  from  each 
town  are  generally  in  waiting  at  the  station  ('posto'  in  the  diligence 
1^2  fr-;  in  other  vehicles  V-fa-1  fr.) ;  to  meet  the  trains  the  carriages 
leave  the  towns  about  I1/2  hr.  before  the  arrival  of  the  latter. 

Alcamo  (835  ft.  ;  Locanda  delta  Fortuna,  tolerable ;  Albergo  di 
Segesta,  Corso  Sei  Aprile  29,  very  unpretending;  *Cafe  opposite  the 
post-office),  a  town  of  Arabian  origin,  with  34,300  inhabitants.  In 
1233,  after  an  insurrection,  Frederick  II.  substituted  a  Christian 
for  the  Saracenic  population,  but  the  town  still  has  a  somewhat 
Oriental  appearance.  There  are ,  however ,  a  few  mediaeval  and 
Renaissance  remains  ,  such  as  the  portal  of  the  church  of  S.  Tom- 
maso ;  the  campanile  of  the  Cathedral,  which  contains  a  Crucifixion 
by  Ant.  Gagini ;  Renaissance  sculptures  in  the  church  of  S.  Fran- 
cesco ;  and  a  Madonna  by  Rozzolone  in  the  church  deiMinori.  Above 
the  town  rises  the  Mte.Bonifato,  or  delta  Madonna  deW  Autu  {Alto; 
2705  ft.),  whence  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  Bay  of  Castellammare 
is  obtained.  The  house  pointed  out  here  as  that  of  Ciullo  d' Alcamo, 
the  earliest  Sicilian  poet  (13th  cent.),  is  really  of  much  later  origin. 

Calatafimi  —  Inns.  Albeego  Centeale  ,  Corso  Garibaldi ,  not  very 
clean,  cuisine  mediocre;  Albekgo  Gaeibaldi.  —Trattoria:  Stella <f Italia, 
unpretending. 

Carriages,  Horses,   etc.,    for   Segesta  at  Salvalore  Denari's;    carriage 


278    Route  25.  SEGESTA.  From  Palermo 

with  4  seats  15  fr.,  horse,  mule,  or  donkey  4-5  fr.  These  may  he  order- 
ed hy  telegraph  to  meet  the  train.  It  is  hest  to  take  the  diligence  or  a 
carriage  to  Calataflmi  (p.  277)  and  to  ride  thence  to  Segesta,  as  the  last 
very  fatiguing  part  of  the  route  is  impracticable  for  carriages.  .travellers 
going  on  to  Palermo  may  from  Segesta  follow  the  high-road  to  the  station 
of  (about  3  hrs.)  Castellammare  (p.  277). 

Calataflmi,  a  town  with  10,000  inhabitants,  lies  to  the  w.  of 
the  railway  in  the  valley  of  the  Fiume  Gaggera.  If  we  asoend  the 
principal  street,  a  good  footpath  diverging  to  the  right  beyond  the 
town  will  lead  us  to  the  top  of  the  hill  occupied  hy  the  Castle 
(1115  ft.).  Fine  *View  hence  of  the  temple  of  Segesta  and  the 
extensive  mountainous  landscape  in  the  environs. 


The  whole  excursion  from  Calatafimi  to  Segesta  takes  4-5  hrs. 
(comp.  the  Map;  carriages,  donkeys,  etc.,  see  above).  The  distance 
is  about  5  M.,  a  ride  of  l'/4  hr. 

Our  route  follows  the  Castellammare  road  (view  of  the  temple 
on  the  left),  descending  a  beautiful,  well-watered  valley.  About 
2^2  M.  below  Calataflmi,  a  sunny  road  descends  to  the  left  to  the 
fiumara,  which  after  rain  is  not  fordable  by  foot-passengers ,  and 
beyond  the  stream  follows  the  right  slope  of  Monte  Barbaro  (very 
marshy  after  rain)  direct  towards  the  custodian's  house  (1/2  hr.). 
Visitors  are  flrat  conducted  to  the  temple,  thence  in  about  25  min. 
to  the  Monte  Barbaro,  where  the  theatre  is  inspected;  return  in 
10  min.  to  the  custodian's  house,  where  luncheon  may  be  taken. 

Segesta,  or  Egesta  as  the  Greeks  usually  called  it,  one  of  the 
most  ancient  towns  in  the  island,  was  of  Elymian,  not  of  Greek  ori- 
gin, and  though  completely  Hellenised  after  the  lapse  of  centuries, 
it  was  almost  incessantly  engaged  in  war  with  its  Greek  neighbours. 

The  Greeks  entertained  the  unfounded  opinion  that  the  Egestans  were 
descended  from  the  Trojans,  who  settled  here  near  the  warm  spring3  of 
the  Scamander  (Fiume  Gaggera),  and  had  combined  with  the  Elymi  so  as 
to  form  a  distinct  people.  During  the  Roman  period  the  tradition  accord- 
ingly arose  that  the  town  was  founded  by  JSneas.  The  ancient  town  ex- 
perienced the  most  disastrous  vicissitudes.  Oppressed  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Selinus,  the  Egestans  invited  the  Athenians  to  their  aid,  and  after  the 
defeat  of  the  latter  at  Syracuse,  they  turned  to  the  Carthaginians,  on 
whose  arrival  followed  the  war  of  B.C.  409.  Egesta  found,  however,  that 
its  connection  with  Carthage  did  not  conduce  to  its  own  greatness,  and 
accordingly  allied  itself  with  Agathocles ;  but  the  tyrant  on  his  return 
from  an  expedition  against  Carthage  in  B.C.  307  massacred  10,000  of  the 
ill-fated  inhabitants  on  the  banks  of  the  Scamander  in  order  to  appro- 
priate their  treasures,  whilst  others  were  sold  as  slaves.  The  town  was 
then  named  Dicaeopolis.  During  the  First  Punic  War  the  inhabitants  allied 
themselves  with  the  Romans  and  changed  the  name  of  their  town  from 
the  ill-omened  Egesta  (egestas)  to  Segesta.  The  Romans,  out  of  vener- 
ation for  the  ancient  Trojan  traditions,  accorded  them  some  assistance. 
Verres  despoiled  the  town  of  the  bronze  statue  of  Demeter,  which  had  once 
been  carried  off  by  the  Carthaginians  and  restored  by  Sripio  Africanus. 
The  ruins  still  in  existence  are  described  below. 

The  **Tbmple,  situated  on  a  hill  to  the  W.  of  the  town  (995  ft.), 
is  a  peripteros-hexastylos  of  thirty-six  columns,  but  was  never 
completed.  The  columns  are  therefore  unfluted,  the  steps  of  the 
basement  unfinished,   showing  the  portions  added  to  facilitate  the 


e    ROVINE     di     SECESTA. 


HttHhJ 


1 :  50.000 


(liilnnii'di 


to  Trapani.  CASTELVETRANO.  25.  Route.     279 

transport  of  the  stones,  and  the  cella  not  begun.  In  other  respects 
it  is  one  of  the  best-preserved  Doric  temples  in  Sicily,  and  its 
simple  but  majestic  outlines  in  this  desolate  spot,  surrounded  by 
lofty  mountains,  are  profoundly  impressive.  Length ,  including 
the  steps,  200  ft.  ;  width  85  ft.  ;  columns  with  capitals  29  ft.  in 
height  and  6  ft.  in  thickness;  intercolumnia  8  ft.  in  width.  As 
the  architraves  were  beginning  to  give  way,  they  are  secured 
where  necessary  with  iron  rods.  The  back  of  the  Doric  entablature, 
with  guttse,  is  in  good  preservation. 

The  town  itself  lay  on  the  Monte  Barbaro.  The  interesting 
*Theatre  commands  a  beautiful  view.  Before  us,  beyond  the  stage, 
rises  Monte  Inice  (3490  ft.),  more  to  the  left  is  Monte  Sparagio 
(3705  ft.),  to  the  right  is  the  so-called  Bosco  di  Calatafimi,  and 
lower  down  the  valley  of  the  Scamander  (Gaggera)  are  the  remains 
of  the  Thermae  Segestanae,  supplied  by  four  different  warm  springs 
which  the  road  to  Castellammare  passes  ;  in  the  distance  is  the  sea. 
The  diameter  of  the  theatre,  which  is  hewn  in  the  rock,  is  205  ft., 
that  of  the  stage  90  ft.,  and  of  the  orchestra  53  ft.  The  seats  are 
divided  into  seven  cunei,  and  separated  by  a  praeeinctio .  In  front 
of  the  proscenium  the  remains  of  two  figures  of  satyrs  from  the 
Roman  period  are  visible.  The  twentieth  row  from  the  'pracinctio' 
is  furnished  with  backs.  A  few  remains  of  houses  with  Roman  and 
Greek  mosaic  pavements  have  recently  been  excavated. 

The  temple  commands  a  distant  view  of  the  field,  indicated  by 
crosses,  where  Garibaldi  gained  the  victory  of  15th  May,  1860.  A 
monument  has  been  unveiled  in  1892  on  the  spot. 


Continuation'  of  Railway.  The  country  retains  a  uniform 
character.  58y2  M.  Oibellina.  64  M.  S.  Ninfa-Salemi,  the  station 
for  the  towns  of  S.  Ninfa  and  Salemi ,  both  situated  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  railway.  Salemi ,  the  ancient  Halicyae,  on  a  hill 
to  the  right,  contains  15,000  inhab.  and  is  commanded  by  a  ruined 
castle.    Four  tunnels  are  passed  through.    The  scenery  improves. 

75M.  CaStelvetranO.  — Hotels.  Alb.  Bixio,  with  trattoria,  fair,R.,L., 
&A.  2'/2fr.;  Alb.  Palermo,  R.2fr.,  clean.  —  Caffe  di  Selinunte,  in  the  Piazza. 

Carriages  etc.  from  Lor.  Bascone  and  others.  A  visit  to  the  ancient 
quarries  near  Campobello  (p.  283)  may  be  combined  with  that  to  Selinunto 
by  making  a  very  early  start  (carriages  ordered  the  night  before).  Car- 
riage and  pair  to  Selinunto  and  back,  or  to  Campobello  and  back  12-15  fr. 
(bargaining  advisable).  —  Horse  or  Mule  to  Selinunto  and  back  7  fr., 
to  the  quarries  and  back  8  fr.  —  Provisions  should  be  taken. 

Castelvetrano ,  Sicil.  Casteddu  Vetrano  (620  ft.),  is  a  provincial 
town  ,  with  21,500  inhab.  who  are  hereditary  tenants  of  the  fertile 
district  around  the  town ,  the  property  of  the  dukes  of  Monteleone 
(of  the  family  of  Aragona-Pignatelli).  The  campanile  of  the  church 
adjoining  the  Palazzo  Monteleone  affords  the  best  panorama  of  the 
surrounding  plain.  The  church  of  S.  Giovanni  contains  a  statue 
of  John  the  Baptist  by  Ant.  Gagini  (1522;  apply  to  the  sacristan). 
The  grammar-school  contains  the  small  Museo  Municipale  of  antiqui- 


280    Route  25.  SELINUNTO.  From  Palermo 

ties  found  at  Selinunto.  The  chief  treasures  are  an  archaic  statuette 
of  *Apollo  in  bronze,  found  in  1882,  and  some  terracottas.  —  About 
2  M.  to  the  W.  is  the  Norman  church  of  8.  Trinity  della  Delia, 
of  the  12th  cent,  lately  restored,  and  now  private  property. 


Fkom  Castelyetrano  to  Selinunto,  7'/2m-i  a  drive  of  1 1/2  hr. 
By  starting  at  8  a.m.  we  may  regain  Castelvetrano  again  at  about 
3  p.m.  —  "We  follow  the  Sciacca  road,  which  gradually  descends  to 
the  sea  through  a  fertile  but  monotonous  district,  and  then  diverges 
to  the  right  to  the  ruined  temples  of  the  Neapolis  on  the  E.  hill 
(p.  282),  near  which  is  a  farm  belonging  to  Florio  (good  wine). 
After  wet  weather,  the  valley  between  this  hill  and  the  Acropolis 
on  the  W.  hill,  which  should  first  be  visited,  is  very  marshy  and 
may  then  be  crossed  by  the  bridge. 

**Selinus,  among  whose  ruins  are  the  grandest  ancient  temples 
in  Europe,  was  founded  in  628  by  colonists  from  Megara  Hyblaa 
under  Pammilus,  and  was  the  westernmost  settlement  of  the  Hel- 
lenes in  Sicily.  On  an  eminence  by  the  sea,  100  ft.  in  height,  to  the 
E.  of  the  river  Selinus  (Modione),  Pammilus  erected  the  Acropolis, 
behind  which,  more  inland,  he  placed  the  town  itself.  On  the  op- 
posite hill,  separated  from  the  citadel  by  a  marshy  valley  (Qorgo  di 
Cotone),  the  credit  of  draining  which  is  ascribed  to  the  philosopher 
Empedocles,  a  sacred  precinct  was  founded  in  the  6th  century.  The 
Selinuntians  were  still  engaged  in  the  construction  of  the  temples 
of  the  latter  when  Hannibal  Gisgon  destroyed  the  town  in  409. 

The  conflicts  between  the  Selinuntians  and  Egestans,  whose  territories 
were  contiguous,  afforded  the  Athenians,  and  afterwards  the  Carthagi- 
nians, a  pretext  for  intervening  in  the  affairs  of  Sicily.  Hannibal  attacked 
the  town  with  100,C00  men.  Help  from  Syracuse  came  too  late ;  16,000  in- 
habitants were  up  to  the  sword ,  and  5000  carried  off  to  Africa  as  cap- 
tives; 2600  only  effected  their  escape  to  Acragas.  From  that  blow  Seli- 
nus newer  recovered.  Hermocrates,  the  exiled  Syracusan  patriot,  founded 
a  colony  here  in  407,  but  under  the  Carthaginian  supremacy  it  never 
attained  to  prosperity,  and  in  the  First  Punic  War  it  was  finally  destroyed 
(26cJB.C).  Since  that  period  it  has  remained  deserted,  as  the  district  is 
unhealthy  in  summer.  In  the  early  Christian  period  cells  were  built 
between  the  temples  and  occupied  by  solitary  settlers.  The  Mohammedans 
called  the  place  Rahl-el-Asnam,  or  'Village  of  the  Idols',  and  here  they 
resisted  the  attacks  of  King  Roger.  The  ruin  of  the  temples  (formerly 
called  Pilieri  dei  Giganti  by  the  natives)  was  probably  caused  by  an  earth- 
quake ,  but  at  what  period  cannot  now  he  determined.  The  sculptures 
found  here  are  now  in  the  museum  at  Palermo  (p.  262). 

The  conductor  of  the  excavations  ('Soprastante  degli  Scavi')  is  Sig. 
Tommasini  at  Selinus ,  who  will  be  found  very  obliging.  Several  custod- 
ians (Guardia  delle  Antichita)  are  stationed  on  the  Acropolis  (see  p.  281), 
where,  however,  they  are  not  always  to  be  found.  There  is  a  Casa  dei 
Yiaggiatori  at  the  Acropolis,  but  in  summer  the  night  should  not  he  spent 
there  on  account  of  the  malaria.  If  a  stay  of  some  days  is  contemplated 
application  should  he  made  to  Sig.  Tommasini.  An  "introduction  from 
the  director  of  Palermo  Museum  is  desirable. 

The  W.  hill,  on  which  lay  the  earliest  town,  was  entirely  sur- 
rounded with  walls.  These  walls  were  destroyed  in  B.C.  409  but 
the  higher  part  of  them  was  re-erected  two  years  later,  partly  with 


to  Trapani. 


SELINUNTO. 


25.  Route.     281 


materials  from  other  buildings.  This  part  of  the  town  was  traversed 
by  two  main  streets,  discovered  by  Cavallari,  running  N.  and  S. 
and  E.  and  W.,  from  which  the  other  streets  diverged  at  right 
angles.  The  most  important  remains  in  the  E.  half  of  the  Acro- 
polis are  those  of 
temples,  all  facing 
the E.  We  shall  de- 
signate the  south- 
ernmost by  the  let- 
ter A.  Between  it 
and  the  custodian's 
house  remains  of 
another  building, 
covered  with  sand, 
have  been  disco- 
vered. Beyond  the 
line  of  the  main 
street  runningf  rom 
E.  toW.,  isasmall 
temple  (B),  which 
Hittorff  restored  as 
a  prostyle  -  tetra- 
style  with  Ionic 
columns  and  Doric 
entablature.  The 
next  temple  (C),  to 
which  the  oldest 
metopes  belonged, 
was  probably  sa- 
cred to  Hercules, 
though  Benndorf 
assigns  it  to  Apol- 
lo; some  of  the  col- 
umns are  monoliths.  Temple  D  is  not  so  ancient  as  Temple  C ; 
a  somewhat  elevated  platform  has  lately  been  brought  to  light  in 
front  of  it.  The  foundation-walls  of  numerous  other  buildings  are 
traceable  within  the  old  town,  and  graves  containing  skeletons  and 
houses,  of  a  later  date,  also  occur.  Crosses  chiselled  on  the  over- 
thrown architraves  indicate  that  these  last  were  dwellings  of  the 
Christian  period.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  old  town,  or  so-called  Acro- 
polis, a  strong  ancient  fortification  (the  Acropolis  proper'?)  has  been 
exhumed ,  with  two  round  bastions  at  the  corners.  The  fact  that 
capitals  and  triglyphs  from  an  earlier  edifice  have  been  used  in 
their  construction  prove  that  the  latter  at  all  events  were  not 
erected  before  B.C.  409.  The  arch  of  the  doorway  is  not  built  but 
hewn  out  of  the  stone.  The  building  discovered  to  the  N.,  errone- 
ously called  a  Theatre,  is  really  a  fortified  tower  belonging  to  the 


282      Route  25. 


SELINUNTO. 


From  Palermo 


second  Acropolis,  built  after  B.C.  409.  To  the  N.  of  this  poin 
lay  trie  town  proper,  the  remains  of  which  are  very  scanty.  —  Sti! 
farther  to  the  N.,  on  the  ridge  between  the  farms  of  Oalera  anc 
Bagliazzo,  was  the  earliest  Necropolis.  At  a  later  period,  but  be- 
fore B.C.  409,  the  citizens  had  their  Necropolis  to  the  W.;  the 
Propylaea  may  still  be  traced  beside  the  farm  of  Manicalunga,  beyond 
the  river  Selinus  (Modione).  The  wild  parsley  (ailivov),  which  gave 
name  to  the  city  and  was  represented  on  its  coins ,  still  grows  in 
abundance  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Adjacent  to  the  farm  of  Mes- 
sana ,  which  lies  just  beyond  the  river  and  may  be  recognised  by 
its  shady  garden,  Cavallari  has  discovered  a  temple  open  to  the  E. 
and  W.,  and  near  it  an  inscription  bearing  the  name  of  Hecate. 

On  the  E.  hill  lie  the  ruins  of  three  temples ,  but  no  other  re- 
mains of  any  kind.  The  southernmost,  which  we  designate  E, 
contained  five  metopes  :  of  these  two  were  in  the  posticum,  one 
representing  Athena  and  the  Giant,  the  other  damaged  beyond 
recognition;  three  were  in  the  pronaos,  and  represented  Hercules 
and  the  Amazon  ,  Zeus  and  Hera ,  Artemis  and  Actaeon.  An  altai 
and  inscription  dedicating  the  temple  to  Hera  were  found  here 
in  1865.  The  middle  temple  (F),  some  of  the  columns  in  which 
were  left  unfinished,  yielded  the  two  lower  halves  of  metopes  dis- 
covered by  Messrs.  Harris  and  Angell  in  1822.  The  last  temple 
(0),  one  of  the  largest  Grecian  temples  known,  was  left  unfinished, 
as  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  nearly  all  the  columns  are  unfluted. 
An  inscription  found  in  it  seems  to  assign  the  temple  to  Apollo. 
According  to  Benndorf ,  Temples  C  and  D  were  built  soon  after 
B.C.  628,  Temple  F  and  part  of  G  in  the  6th  cent.  B.C.,  and 
Temples  A  and  E  and  the  rest  of  0  in  the  5th  cent.  B.C. 

The  following  measurements  are  given  approximately  in  English 
feet. 


Length  of  temple  including  steps 

A. 

139 

B. 

28V2 

C. 
230 

D. 

192 

E. 

228 

F. 

216 

G. 

371 

Width  of  temple  including  steps 

60 

15 

88 

89 

91 

90 

177 

Height  of  columns  with  capitals  . 

20 

II1/4? 

28 

241/2 

33 

30 

51/4 

531/2 

Diameter  of  columns  at  the  base. 

4i/4 

IV2? 

6 

5 

7 

1174 

Diameter  of  columns  at  the  top  . 

3>/2 

1? 

5 

3V4 

6 

4 

61/4 
8 

Height  of  entablature  (trabeazione) 

9 

3'/4V 

14 

13i/4 

14i/2 

13 

22 

6 
5 

D/2? 

8% 
7'/2 

131 

9 

'81/2 

124 

8 
7 

9 
87a 

103/4 
91/4 

82 

H3A 

135 

133 

228 

25 

HV2 

29i/2| 

26i/2 

371/2 

23  J 

59 

to  Trapani.  MAZZARA.  2.5.  Route.      283 

Beyond  Castelvetrano  the  train  enters  a  wide  moor,  which  ex- 
tends nearly  as  far  as  Mazzara.  Fine  sea-views.  —  77M.  Campo- 
bello,  near  the  ancient  quarries,  which  yielded  the  material  for  the 
temples  of  Selinunto  and  are  now  called  Bocca  di  Cusa  or  Cave  di 
Campobello. 

A  visit  to  the  'Quarries  of  Selinunto  may  be  made  by  carriage  from 
Castelvetrano  in  about  3  hrs.  (p.  279).  The  distance  is  only  2  M.,  but  as 
only  two  trains  a  day  run  in  each  direction,  the  railway  can  hardly  be 
used  more  than  once.  Those  whose  time  is  limited  are  recommended  to 
combine  this  excursion  with  that  to  Selinunto  in  the  manner  indicated 
on  p.  2711.  —  The  quarries  are  peculiarly  interesting  ,  for  the  work  in 
them  was  suddenly  interrupted,  doubtless  on  the  capture  of  the  town  by 
the  Carthaginians  in  B.C.  409,  and  has  never  since  been  resumed.  The 
various  stages  of  the  process  of  quarrying  are  still  traceable.  A  circular 
incision  was  first  made  in  the  rock,  and  then  hewn  out  till  a  space  of  a 
yard  in  width  was  left  free  between  the  solid  rock  and  the  monolithic 
drum  of  the  column.  The  block  was  then  severed  entirely  from  the  rock, 
and  its  bed  left  empty.  A  number  of  such  drums  are  lying  ready  for 
transport  at  the  bottom  of  the  quarry ;  others  have  already  been  carried 
for  some  distance  along  the  road  to  Selinunto.  Among  the  drums,  which 
measure  8-10  ft.  in  length  and  about  8  ft.  in  diameter,  are  some  which 
correspond  exactly  with  those  used  for  the  columns  of  temple  O  (see 
p.  282),  and  which  were  undoubtedly  designed  for  the  completion  of  that 
building. 

84  M.  S.  Nicola.  We  then  cross  the  river  Delia. 

89'/2  M.  Mazzara  [Alb.  Centrale  di  Selinunte,  close  to  the  old 
castle,  with  trattoria;  opposite,  Loc.  Vecchia,  poor,  R.  75  c. ;  *C'afe 
near  the  Piazza  del  Duomo;  Brit,  vice-consul),  officially  styled  Maz- 
zara del  Vallo  ,  a  town  with  13,500  inhab. ,  the  residence  of  a 
bishop,  is  surrounded  by  a  quadrangular  wall  about  36  ft.  in  height, 
which  is  defended  in  the  characteristic  Italian  style  with  square 
towers  rising  from  it  at  intervals.  The  ancient  Mazara  was  originally 
a  colony  of  the  Selinuntians  ,  hut ,  like  the  mother-city,  was  de- 
stroyed by  Hannibal  Gisgon  in  B.C.  409.  In  827,  the  Arabs  landed 
at  Ras  el-Belat  (Punta  di  Granitola),  to  the  S.  of  Mazzara,  with  the 
intention  of  conquering  the  island.  The  ruined  Castle  at  the  S.E. 
angle  of  the  town-wall  was  erected,  or  at  least  strengthened,  by  Count 
Roger  in  1073,  who  also  founded  the  Cathedral,  which  contains  three 
ancient  sarcophagi  (Battle  of  the  Amazons  ;  Wild  Boar  Hunt ;  Rape 
of  Persephone  ,  freely  restored) ,  and  a  Transfiguration  over  the 
high-altar  by  Gagini.  The  mansion  of  the  Conle  Burgio,  at  theW. 
corner  of  the  Piazza  del  Duomo ,  and  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace 
opposite  the  cathedral  contain  large  Arabic  majolica  vases.  Plea- 
sant walk  on  the  Marina.  On  the  river  Mazaras  farther  up,  into 
the  estuary  of  which  the  tide  penetrates  for  a  considerable  distance, 
are  situated   grottoes  in  which  the   'heati  Pauli'  once  assembled. 

Beyond  Mazzara  we  traverse  a  tract  of  moor  and  enter  a  richly 
cultivated  district,  planted  chiefly  with  the  vine.    96  M.  Bambina. 

1021/2  M.  Marsala.  —  Inns.  Aleekgo  Centkale,  with  good  Trat- 
toria, E.,  L.,  &  A.  2'/4-3'/4,  bargain  advisable;  Albergo  Leone. 

Carriages  from  the  station  to  the  town,  1/2  fr-  each  person.  .Steam- 
boat Office  (Florio-Rubattino)  at  Florio's  wine-manufactory;  embarcation 
or  landing  50  c,  with  luggage  l'/s  fr.  per  person. 


284     Route  25.  MARSALA.  From  Palermo 

Bkitish  Vice-Consul:  Chas.  F.  Gray,  Esq.  —  American  Consdlak 
Agent  :   Geo.  Bayson,  Esq. 

Marsala  is  an  important  commercial  town  with  37,000  inhab., 
well  known  for  the  Marsala  wine  which  is  manufactured  here  from 
Sicilian  wines  and  spirit.  The  principal  firms  are  Ingham,  Florio, 
and  Woodhouse,  who  kindly  admit  visitors  to  see  their  extensive  and 
interesting  establishments,  situated  on  the  shore  to  the  S.  of  the 
town.  Garibaldi,  with  1000  men,  transported  by  the  'Piemonte'  and 
'Lombardo',  landed  here  on  11th  May,  1860,  and  began  his  famous 
progress  through  the  island,  which  ended  in  a  few  weeks  with  the 
overthrow  of  the  Bourbon  supremacy  in  Sicily.  The  town,  a  modern 
place  ,  contains  nothing  noteworthy,  except  the  cathedral  and  the 
wine  manufacturies.  The  Municipio  (last  door  on  the  right)  contains 
an  antique  animal-group  from  Motye,  a  tiger  devouring  a  bull;  above 
is  a  Phoenician  inscription. 

Marsala  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Lilybaeum,  a  fragment 
of  the  town-wall  of  which  is  preserved  near  the  Porta  di  Trapani. 
The  ravine  in  front  of  the  latter  and  the  fields  beyond  contain  ca- 
verns and  graves,  and  the  Convento  del  Niccolini  (no  admission)  con- 
tains Phoenician  tombs  with  Byzantine  pictures.  Other  relics  are 
the  harbour  to  the  N.,  where  the  salt-works  are  now  situated,  and  a 
few  fragments  of  houses  and  walls  on  the  coast  of  Capo  Boeo  (or 
Lilibeo),  the  westernmost  point  of  Sicily  and  the  nearest  to  Africa. 
A  bust  of  Garibaldi  has  been  erected  outside  the  Porta  Nuova, 
where  he  landed.  In  the  field  to  the  left  on  the  promontory  stands 
the  church  of  S.  Giovanni  Battista  (open  to  visitors),  with  a  sub- 
terranean spring  in  the  Grotta  delta  Sibilla.  The  Cumaean  sibyl  is 
said  to  have  proclaimed  her  oracles  through  the  medium  of  the 
water,  which  is  still  an  object  of  superstitious  veneration. 

LilybEeum  was  the  principal  fortress  of  the  Carthaginians  in  Sicily. 
Pyrrhus  besieged  it  unsuccessfully  in  279,  after  which  he  quitted  the  island. 
In  249-41  the  Romans  in  vain  endeavoured  to  reduce  it  during  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  sieges  on  record.  Under  the  Roman  supremacy  Lily- 
bseum  was  a  very  handsome  city  ('splendidissima  civitas'),  and  the  seat  of 
government  for  half  of  Sicily.  From  this  point  the  Roman  expeditions 
against  Africa,  and  also  those  of  John  of  Austria,  were  undertaken.  The 
present  name  of  the  town  is  of  Saracenic  origin,  Marsa-Ali ,  harbour  of 
Ali.  Charles  V.  caused  stones  to  be  sunk  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbour, 
with  a  view  to  deprive  the  barbarians  of  one  of  their  favourite  haunts. 

On  the  small  island  of  S.  Pantaleo ,  situated  in  the  shallow  '■Sta- 
gnone"  near  the  coast,  about  6  M.  to  the  N.  of  Marsala  (boat  thither  from 
Marsala  4  fr.),  was  anciently  situated  the  Phoenician  emporium  of  Motye. 
The  foundations  of  old  walls  round  the  island,  and  remains  of  the  gates, 
especially  on  the  side  next  the  land,  with  which  the  island  was  connected 
by  an  embankment,  are  still  traceable.  The  latter  still  exists  under  water, 
and  is  used  by  the  natives  as  a  track  for  their  waggons.  In  B.C.  397  the 
town  was  besieged  and  destroyed  by  Dionysius  with  80,000  men  and  700 
vessels,  and  the  Carthaginian  admiral  Himilco  totally  routed.  It  was  with 
a  view  to  repair  this  loss  that  the  Carthaginians  founded  LilybEeum. 

Between  Marsala  and  Trapani  the  train  skirts  the  sea-coast.   To 
the  left  is  the  Staynone  (p.  284),  with  the  islands  of  S.  Pantaleo 
S.  Maria,  Isola   Grande  or  Isola  Lunga,   and  others.     In  the  dis- 


to  Trapani.  TRAPANI.  25.  Route,     285 

tance  are  the  mountainous  Favignana ,  Levanzo,  and  other  islets 
belonging  to  the  JEga&ian  Group  (see  p.  287).  —  106  M.  Spag- 
nuola ;  110  M.  Ragattisi.  —  Beyond  (113  M.)  Marausa  the  train 
crosses  the  Birgi,  the  ancient  Acithis.  Here,  in  the  plain  of 
Falconaria,  Frederick  II.  of  Sicily  routed  the  united  French  and 
Neapolitan  armies,  and  took  Philip  of  Anjou  prisoner,  on  1st  Dec. 
1299.  This  was  the  greatest  of  the  battles  which  took  place 
during  the  wars  after  the  Sicilian  Vespers.  —  H8Y2M.  Paceco  ;  the 
town,  founded  in  1609  and  famed  for  its  cucumbers  and  melons, 
lies  to  the  right  of  the  railway.  The  train  passes  extensive  salt- 
works, in  which  the  salt  is  stored  in  huge,  tent-shaped  heaps,  and 
skirts  the  base  of  Monte  S.  Giuliano  (p.  286). 

121  M.  Trapani.  —  Inns.  Albeego  Trinacria,  Piazza  del  Teatro, 
near  the  harbour,  with  good  Trattoria,  B.,  L.,  &  A.  272  fr. ;  Leone  d'Oro, 
near  the  gate,  in  the  StradaNuova,  very  unpretending  ;  Cinque  Torri,  Largo 
S.  Niccolo,  moderate.  —  Restaurants.  Giardinelto,  not  far  from  the  Cinque 
Torri;  Sicilia ,  near  the  harbour,  both  good.  —  Cafe1  Serafini,  at  the  har- 
bour, beside  the  Dogana. 

Carriages  from  the  station  to  the  town,  lfc  fr.  each  person.  —  Omnibus 
from  the  harbour  (Piazza  Marina)  to  the  Madonna  de.IV  Anmnziata  (p.  286), 
every  10  min.    10  c. 

Mules  and  Donkeys  for  the  Monte  S.  Giuliano  are  to  be  found  near 
the  gate,  in  the  first  street  on  the  right  (2-2>/2  fr.,  boy  V2  fr.).  —  Carriage 
with  three  horses  to  the  Mte.  S.  Giuliano  25-30  fr.  A  Diligence  also  runs 
daily  to  Mte.  S.  Giuliano. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Sig.  Marino ;  TJ.  S.  Consular  Agent,  Sig.  Marrone. 

Coral,  shell-cameos,  and   alabaster  works  are  specialities  of  Trapani. 

Trdpani ,  the  ancient  Drepana  (from  drepanon ,  a  sickle),  so 
called  from  the  form  of  the  peninsula,  a  prosperous  town  with 
38,000  iuhab.,  lies  at  the  N.W.  extremity  of  Sicily,  and  is  the 
seat  of  a  prefect  and  a  bishop.  The  harbour  is  good,  and  the  trade 
of  the  place  not  inconsiderable. 

In  ancient  times  it  was  the  seaport  of  Eryx  (Mte.  S.  Giuliano),  but 
was  converted  into  a  fortress  by  Hamilcar  Barca  about  the  year  260,  and 
peopled  with  the  inhabitants  of  Eryx.  In  249  the  Carthaginian  admiral 
Adherbal  defeated  the  Roman  fleet  under  the  consul  Publius-  Claudius  off 
the  harbour,  and  in  242  Drepana  was  besieged  by  the  consul  Lutatius 
Catulus ,  whose  headquarters  were  in  the  island  of  Columbaria  (Colum- 
bara).  On  this  occasion  the  Carthaginian  fleet,  laden  with  stores,  on  its 
route  from  Maritimo  to  Favignana,  was  destroyed  in  March  241,  in  sight  of 
the  town,  a  victory  which  terminated  the  First  Punic  War.  During  the 
Roman  period  the  town  was  unimportant.  In  the  middle  ages  it  pros- 
pered as  a  royal  residence.  In  the  iEneid,  Anchises  is  represented  as 
having  died  here,  and  jEneas  as  having  instituted  games  to  his  father^  mem- 
ory. The  island  described  as  the  goal  in  the  boat-race  is  now  called 
Asinello.  Another  tradition  is  that  John  of  Procida  formed  the  conspiracy 
against  Charles  of  Anjou  on  the  Scoglio  del  Mai  Consiglio.  It  is,  however, 
an  historical  fact  that  Peter  of  Aragon,  touching  here  on  30th  Aug.  1282, 
on  his  return  from  Africa  with  his  fleet,  was  welcomed  as  a  deliverer. 

Besides  a  few  mediaeval  structures,  Trapani  contains  several  hand- 
some buildings  in  the  baroque  style.  The  Lyceum,  to  the  right  in 
the  Corso,  possesses  a  natural  history  collection  and  a  picture-gallery 
(!/2  fr.).  The  latter  includes:  Carreca ,  Jacob's  dream,  St.  Albert; 
Ribera,  Heads  of  Apostles  ;  and  interesting  14th  cent,  representations 


286     Route  25.  TRAPANI.  From  Palermo 

from  the  ceiling  of  S.  Agostino.  —  The  Cattedrale  8.  Lorenzo,  farther 
on  in  the  Corso,  possesses  a  Crucifixion  by  Van  Dyck  (4th  chapel  on 
the  right),  freely  retouched,  and  fine  carved  choir-stalls.  —  The 
church  of  S.  Agostino,  to  the  S.,  once  a  Templars'  church,  has  curious 
architectonic  decorations.  —  The  neighhouring  church  of  S.  Maria  di 
Gesii  contains  a  Madonna  by  Luca  della  Robbia  in  a  marble  frame 
of  1521  (to  the  right  of  the  altar).  —  In  the  Oratorio  di  8.  Michele 
is  a  representation  of  the  Passion ,  executed  in  coloured  wooden 
groups  by  Trapanian  artists  of  the  17th  century. — The  portal  of  the 
adjacent  church  of  the  Madonna  della  Luce  dates  from  1509.  The 
Via  della  Giudecca,  or  former  Jewish  quarter,  contains  an  old  house 
with  a  tower  (Lo  Spedadello),  illustrating  the  curious  mingling  of 
architectural  styles  which  characterised  the  1 5th  century. — The  sta- 
tues of  saints  behind  the  high-altar  in  the  church  of  S.  Niccolb  di 
Bari  belong  to  the  school  of  Gagini  (1560).  —  A  Statue  of  Victor 
Emmanuel  II.  by  Dupre  was  erected  in  1882  in  the  Piazza  Vittorio 
Emanuele,  through  which  leads  the  road  to  Monte  S.  Giuliano.  — 
The  promenades  along  the  harbour,  where  a  Statue  of  Garibaldi,  by 
L.  Oroce,  was  erected  in  1890,  command  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
Aegadian  Islands  (p.  287). 

Pleasant  walk  to  the  Torre  de'  Legni,  i/2  M.  from  the  Albergo 
Trinacria,  following  the  Corso  to  its  end,  where  we  pass  through 
the  gate  next  the  sea  and  then  incline  a  little  to  the  right. 

The  attractive  *Excuksion  to  Monte  S.  Giuliano  occupies  fully 
half-a-day.  The  traveller  had  better  ride  or  walk  (2'/2-3  hrs.). 

The  route  passes  the  church  of  the  Madonna  dell'  Anntjn- 
ziata,  founded  in  1332,  about  l^Bf.  from  the  town  (omnibus,  see 
p.  285).  The  principal  church  has  been  modernised,  but  the  fine 
architecture  of  the  Cappella  del  Cristo  Risorto,  founded  in  1476  by 
the  seamen's  guild,  on  the  N.  side,  has  been  preserved,  even  on 
the  exterior  (sacristan  in  the  convent  behind  the  church). 

In  the  CArPELLA  del  Ckisto  Risorto  are  four  excellent  statues  by 
a  native  artist  of  the  end  of  the  15th  cent. ,  representing  sleeping  and 
waking  watchmen  at  the  Sepulchre.  —  The  Saceisti  contains  a  silver 
salver,  with  Christian  and  mythological  designs  in  relief,  attributed  to 
Benvenuto  Cellini. 

At  this  church  the  road  to  S.  Giuliano  diverges  to  the  left  from 
the  high-road  ;  and  pedestrians  may  ascend  from  it  to  the  left  by  a 
steep  footpath.  The  precipitous  slopes  are  beautifully  wooded  at 
places.  Midway  is  the  small  but  fertile  Piano  dei  Cappuccini,  with 
the  rock  Petrale  to  the  right,  and  La  Cintaria  to  the  left. 

*Monte  San  Giuliano,  the  Eryx  of  antiquity,  is  an  isolated 
mountain,  2465  ft.  in  height.  On  its  summit  is  situated  a 
small  town  {Caffe  of  Mastra  Salvatore,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele; 
Trattoria  dell'  Erice  ,  near  the  entrance  of  the  town ,  fair),  which 
is  rapidly  falling  to  decay.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  speedily 
decreasing  owing  to  the  frequent  migrations  which  take  place  to  the 
plain  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.   On  account  of  the  cold  mists  the 


to  Trapani.  MONTE  S.  GIULIANO.         25.  Route.     287 

men  of  this  district  generally  wear  the  'cappa'  or  hood,  met  with 
throughout  Sicily;  the  women,  who  are  renowned  for  their  beauty, 
wear  long  black  veils.  At  the  entrance  of  the  town  stands  the  Ca- 
thedral, restored  in  1865,  only  the  W.  bays  of  which  are  old.  "We 
ascend  through  the  town  to  the  towers  fitted  up  as  a  residence  by 
Baron  Agostino  Pepoli,  commanding  a  splendid  view  and  contain- 
ing a  collection  of  objects  of  art ,  and  then  to  the  ivy-clad  Castle 
(partly  used  as  a  prison).  The  rugged  rock  on  which  it  stands  com- 
mands a  noble  prospect  of  the  land  and.  sea.  To  the  W.  at  our  feet 
lies  Trapani,  and  beyond  it  are  the  iEgadian  Islands  :  Maritimo  (an- 
cient Hiera;  with  the  Monte  Falcone,  2245  ft.),  the  most  distant; 
to  the  left,  nearer  us,  Favignana  (^Egusa,  1070  ft.);  on  the  right  Le- 
vanzo  (Phorbantia);  all  of  which  belonged  to  the  Genoese  family  of  the 
Pallavicini  from  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent,  till  1874,  when  they 
were  purchased  by  Sign.  Florio  of  Palermo.  Towards  the  S.  stretches 
the  fertile  plain  of  the  coast,  with  Paceco  (p.  285);  in  the  back- 
ground is  Marsala.  Towards  the  E.  tower  the  mountains  of  S.  Vito 
(from  W.  to  E.  Sparagio,  Laccie,  Sauci,  San  Barnaba,  and  Rocca- 
corvo) ;  and  the  conical  peninsula  of  Cofano  extends  into  the  sea, 
which  bounds  three  sides  of  the  mountain.  In  winter  Cape  Bon  in 
Africa  is  occasionally,  and  the  island  of  Pantelleria  (p.  380)  fre- 
quently visible.  In  spring  the  whole  district  at  our  feet  is  clothed 
with  the  most  luxuriant  verdure. 

On  the  summit  once  stood  the  shrine  of  Venus  Erycina ,  a  deity  wor- 
shipped by  all  the  people  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  modern  town  is 
probably  co-extensive  with  the  sacred  enclosure.  The  same  spot  had  pre- 
viously been  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Astarte,  erected  by  Phoenician  settlers, 
on  whose  altar  no  blood  was  permitted  to  flow.  Melkarth  was  also  wor- 
shipped here ;  the  Greeks  therefore  believed  the  temple  to  have  been 
founded  by  Hercules,  and  Dorieus,  brother  of  Leonidas  of  Sparta,  undertook, 
as  a  Heraclides ,  an  expedition  to  conquer  this  district ,  but  was  defeated 
and  slain  by  the  Phoenicians  and  Egestans.  During  the  First  Punic  War 
Hamilcar  Barca  surprised  the  town,  which  lay  on  the  slope  of  the  moun- 
tain, but  has  left  no  trace  of  its  existence,  and  besieged  the  temple, 
which  was  bravely  defended  by  the  Celtic  mercenaries  on  behalf  of  Eome, 
but  at  the  same  time  plundered  by  them.  The  Carthaginians  were  in  their 
turn  surrounded  from  below  by  the  Romans,  who  afterwards  restored 
the  temple,  furnished  it  with  a  guard  of  200  men,  and  bestowed  on  it  the 
revenues  of  seventeen  towns  of  Sicily  (for  Eryx,  it  was  said,  had  also  been 
founded  by  ^Eneas  !).  According  to  some  the  temple  was  founded  by  Daeda- 
lus, and  Eryx  by  a  son  of  Venus  and  Butes.  The  present  name  is  derived 
from  the  tradition,  that,  when  the  town  was  besieged  by  King  Roger,  he 
beheld  St.  Julian  putting  the  Saracens  to  flight. 

The  only  remains  of  the  temple  of  Venus  are  the  foundations 
within  the  castle,  the  so-called  Ponte  or  Arco  del  Diavolo, 
and  the  'Fountain  of  Venus'  in  the  castle-garden,  an  ancient  re- 
servoir, 4  yds.  in  width,  and  8  yds.  in  length.  Of  the  walls  of  the 
sacred  city  of  Venus  considerable  portions  still  exist  beneath  the 
present  wall,  between  the  gates  of  Trapani  and  La  Spada,  con- 
sisting of  huge  blocks  in  courses  of  equal  height.  The  wall  was 
defended  by  eleven  towers  at  unequal  intervals.  The  entrance  to 
the  town  was  obviously  between  the  Monte  di  Quartiere  and  the 


288     Route  26.  SCIACCA. 

Porta  la  Spada,  where  in  the  interior  of  the  town  the  walls  of 
the  approach  can  be  traced  towards  the  right.  These  walls  are 
now  known  to  have  been  erected  by  the  Phoenicians. 

26.  From  Castelvetrano  (Selinunto)  to  Girgenti. 

About  62  M.  New  road:  diligence  in  about  19  hrs.  Railway  project- 
ed. For  a  carriage  (2  days)  100  fr.  is  charged.  For  3  mules  with  3  atten- 
dants from  Castelvetrano  to  Sciacca  30  fr.  were  paid;  and  for  3  mules 
with  one  attendant  from  Sciacca  to  Girgenti  45  fr.  The  Syracuse  steam- 
boat (p.  276)  touches  at  Sciacca  weekly  (Saturday  forenoon ;  landing  or 
embarcation  1  fr.),  a  pleasant  means  ol  conveyance  to  Girgenti  if  it  should 
happen  to  suit  the  traveller's  convenience.  This  excursion  should  be  un- 
dertaken by  those  only  who  can  endure  considerable  fatigue  and  who 
understand  the  Sicilian  dialect;  other  travellers  should  visit  Girgenti  from 
Palermo  (see  E.  27).  Recently  also  the  state  of  public  security  has  not 
been  all  that  could  be  desired. 

If  Castelvetrano  be  quitted  early,  it  is  possible  to  ride  in 
one  day  by  the  ruins  of  Selinus  to  Sciacca  (28  M. ;  or  by  the  di- 
rect route  from  Castelvetrano  about  24  M.).  From  the  Acropolis 
we  again  cross  to  the  Neapolis,  traverse  wheat-fields  and  vineyards, 
and  reach  the  Fiume  Beliee  (ancient  Hypsas),  which  we  cross  at 
a  ford.  The  route  then  lies  partly  across  the  sand  of  the  coast, 
partly  through  poorly  cultivated  land,  to  Sciacca.  The  town  of 
M enfr ic i  (Sicil.  Menfi;  400  ft.),  with  10,000  inhab.,  lies  a  little 
to  the  left.  The  stones  for  the  Metopae  of  Selinus  appear  to  have 
been  quarried  near  this  town. 

Sciacca  (La  Pace,  with  trattoria,  clean;  Caffe  a"  Italia), vrith.22,200 
inhab.,  situated  on  an  abrupt  eminence  (260ft.)  on  the  coast,  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  the  Thermae  Selinuntinae  of  antiquity.  Tommaso 
Fazello  (d.  1570),  the  father  of  Sicilian  history,  was  born  here. 
For  the  sake,  it  is  said,  of  acquiring  an  illustrious  fellow-towns- 
man, he  describes  Agathocles,  the  tyrant  of  Syracuse,  who  was  born 
at  Thermae  Himerenses  (Termini),  as  a  native  of  Sciacca.  In  the 
middle  ages  the  town  was  a  place  of  some  importance ,  being 
a  royal  and  not  merely  a  baronial  borough.  Powerful  nobles, 
however,  also  resided  here,  the  ruins  of  whose  castles  are  still 
to  be  seen  in  the  town;  the  most  extensive  of  these  are  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  town-wall.  Here  rise  the  ruins  of  the  castles  of  the 
Luna  and  Perollo  families,  whose  feuds,  the  so-called  Casi  di 
Sciacca,  disturbed  the  tranquillity  of  the  town  for  a  whole  century 
(1410-1529),  a  fact  which  serves  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  con- 
dition of  mediaeval  Sicily.  The  Cathedral  was  founded  by  Julietta, 
the  daughter  of  Roger  I.  The  finest  view  is  afforded  by  the  tower 
of  S.  Michele.  The  Casa  Starepinto  and  Casa  Triolo  are  interesting 
specimens  of  mediaeval  architecture.  The  spacious  modern  palace, 
with  a  beautiful  garden,  at  the  E.  gate,  is  the  property  of  the 
Marchese  San  Oiacomo. 

Monte  S.  Calogero  (1280  ft.),  an  isolated  cone,  3  M.  to  the  E.  of 
Sciacca,  deserves  a  visit  on  account  of  its  curious  vapour-baths.  In  the 
valley   between    Sciacca   and   the   mountain    are   the   sources    of   the    hot 


CORLEONE.  26.  Route    289 

sulphur  (133°  Fahr.)  and  salt  (88°)  springs,  which  attract  numerous 
patients  in  summer.  The  foundation  of  the  vapour  -baths  (Le  Stufe; 
temperature  varying  from  92°  to  104°)  was  attributed  to  Deedalus,  and  the 
mountain  called  in  ancient  times  Mons  Kronios.  The  grottoes,  partially 
artificial,  with  unimportant  inscriptions,  such  as  the  Orotta  Taphano  (delta 
Diana)  and  delle  Pvlzelle,  are  interesting.  In  the  middle  ages  the 
discovery  of  the  efficacy  of  the  baths  was  attributed  to  S.  Calogero  (mod. 
Greek  kaldgeros,  monk),  and  most  of  the  baths  in  Sicily  are  accordingly 
named  after  that  saint,  as  in  ancient  times  they  were  all  believed  to 
have  been  established  by  Dsedalus.  The  island  of  Pantellaria  is  distinctly 
visible  from  the  Monte  S.  Calogero.  On  18th  July,  1831,  a  volcanic  island 
(Isola  Ferdinandea),  4-5  M.  in  circumference,  with  a  crater,  rose  from  the 
sea  between  Sciacca,  and  Pantellaria,  but  on  18th  Jan.,  1832,  entirely  dis- 
appeared. In  1864  symptoms  of  a  submarine  eruption  were  again  observed. 
There  is  also  a  shoal  at  this  point.  Not  far  from  it  a  valuable  coral  reef 
was  discovered  in  1875,  which  attracts  many  hundreds  of  coral-fishers. 

Fbom  Palekmo  to  Sciacca  via  Cokleone,  about68M.;  railway  to  Corleone 
(42'/2M.,  in  41/4  hrs.;  fares  8  fr.  55,  6  fr.,  3  fr.  55  c).  —  Beyond  (3y2  M.) 
Corsari  and  (572  M.)  Villabate  the  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Scanzano 
to  the  S.  —  10  M.  Misilmeri;  15  M.  Bolognetta - Marineo  (called  Ogliastro 
till  1883);  17'/2  M.  Mulinazzo;  I91/2  M.  Baucina.  —  2IV2  M.  VUlafrati.  A 
little  to  the  W.  are  the  baths  of  Cefala-Diana  (called  'Gefala'by  the  Arabs), 
at  the  base  of  a  lofty  hill,  crowned  by  the  Castello  di  Diana;  —  22'/2  M. 
Mezaojuso;  fSfifall.  Godrano ;  291/2Mr.  Ficuzza,  with  a  royal  hunting-lodge. 
To  the  S.  rises  the  mountain-ridge  of  Busctmbra,  with  the  woods  of  Cap- 
pelliere.  —  31  M.  Bifarera;  33'/2  M.  Scalilli-Tagliavia.  On  the  hill  is  the 
ruined  Saracen  fort  of  Galata  Busambra.  —  39  M.  Donna  Beatrice. 

42  M.  Corleone  (Albergo  delle  Palme,  fine  view),  anciently  Korlifin,  with 
15,700  inhab.,  is  a  town  of  Saracenic  origin,  where  Frederick  II.  estab- 
lished a  Lombard  colony  in  1237.  Its  inhabitants  were  therefore  the 
most  strenuous  opponents  of  the  house  of  Anjou. 

From  Corleone  the  road  leads  via  Campoflorito ,  skirting  the  cliffs  of 
Monte  Cardellieri  and  Monte  Buraco ,  to  Bisacquino  (10,000  inhab.)  and 
(13  M.)  Chiusa-Sclafani  (7500  inhab.) ,  where  it  divides.  The  road  to 
the  B.  leads  to  Burgio.  The  principal  church  here  contains  a  picture  by 
Ribera ,  and  the  Franciscan  church  a  statue  of  St.  Vitus  by  Ant.  Gagini 
(1520).  We  follow  the  branch  to  the  W.,  via,  Giuliana,  with  an  ancient 
castle  and  a  Norman  church  ,*  to  Sambucca,  a  well-built  town  with  9000 
inhab.,  which  under  the  name  of  Rahal  Zabuth  belonged  to  the  monastery 
of  Monreale  in  1185.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  are  situated  Conlessa,  an 
Albanian  settlement,  and  the  ruins  of  Entella  on  the  bank  of  the  Belice 
Sinislro,  5  M.  from  Contessa,  and  accessible  from  the  S.E.  only.  Entella 
was  an  Elymian  town,  of  which  mention  is  made  in  the  Trojan-Sicilian 
myths.  In  403  it  was  taken  by  surprise  by  the  Campanian  mercenary 
troops  of  Dionysius  I.  From  Sambucca  the  road  proceeds  W.  to  Sella- 
Misilbesi ,  where  it  unites  with  the  road  from  Partanna  (13,000  inhab.) 
and  S.  Margherita  (8000  inhab.),  and  then  leads  S.  E.  to  Sciacca  (p.  288). 

From  Sciacca  to  Girgenti,  about  40  M.  (a  fatiguing  ride  of  12 
hrs.).  We  cross  the  Fiume  Caltabelotta ;  to  the  left  on  a  precipi- 
tous height,  on  the  right  hank  of  the  river,  10  M.  inland,  stands 
Caltabelotta.  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  it,  on  a  still  higher  hill 
(2430  ft.),  now  occupied  by  the  church  of  S.  Maria  a  Monte  Ver- 
gine,  lay  Triocala,  celebrated  for  the  siege  it  sustained  in  the  Sec- 
ond Servile  War,  B.C.  102.  The  view  thence  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Sicily.  On  the  left  bank  lies  the  small  town  of  Ribera 
(Cafe-Restaurant  Garibaldi).  Farther  on  we  cross  (20!/2  M.)  the 
river  Platani  (ancient  Halycus)  and  reach ,  having  accomplished 
about  half  the  journey,  — 

Baedekek.    Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  19 


290     Route  27.  TERMINI. 

Montallegro  (miserable  locanda),  a  place  consisting  of  two  vil- 
lages ,  the  older  on  the  hill ,  now  deserted  owing  to  want  of  water, 
and  the  newer  lower  down.  Near  the  village  is  a  small  lake,  nearly 
!/2  M.  in  diameter,  impregnated  with  carbonate  of  soda. 

On  the  Capo  Bianco  (100  ft.),  between  the  Platani  and  Monte  Allegro, 
once  lay  Heracleia  Minoa.  At  first  Macara,  a  Sicanian  town,  stood  here ; 
it  then  became  a  Cretan  and  Phoenician  settlement  (Rus-Melkarth),  the 
Greek  Minoa.  It  was  next  colonised  by  Lacedaemonians  under  Euryleon, 
successor  of  Dorieus  who  was  slain  at  Eryx,  and  received  the  name  of 
Heracleia  Minoa.  At  a  later  period  it  was  generally  in  possession  of  the 
Carthaginians.  Coins  bearing  the  old  Phoenician  inscription  'Rus  Melkarth' 
are  still  extant.  When  it  was  finally  destroyed  is  unknown ,  and  very 
few  fragments  of  if  now  exist. 

A  good  road  leads  from  Montallegro  to  (15  M.)  Porto  Empedocle. 

Porto  Empedocle,  and  thence  by  railway  to  Girgenti,  see  p.  293 ; 
the  distance  by  road  is  scarcely  4  M. 

27.  From  Palermo  to  Girgenti  and  Porto  Empedocle. 

Railway  from  Palermo  to  Girgenti,  84  M.,  in  43/4-53/«  hrs.  (fares  15  fr. 
45, 10  fr.  80, 7fr.;  express  to  Roccapalumba  and  thence  ordinary  train,  16  fr.  25, 
11  fr.  35  c).  From  Girgenti  to  Porto  Empedocle  6  M.,  in  V2  hr.  (fares  1  fr.15, 
80,  75  c). 

The  railway  traverses  the  fertile  plain  of  the  coast  (stations 
Ficarazzelli  and  Ficarazzi)  to  Bagheria  (p.  275),  and  runs  thence 
between  the  sea  and  the  hills,  passing  through  several  short 
tunnels.  10  M.  8.  Flavia,  station  for  Solunto  (p.  275).  11  M.  Cas- 
teldaccia.  —  13 M.  Altavilla;  the  village,  on  the  hill  to  the  right, 
possesses  one  of  the  oldest  existing  Norman  churches,  called  La 
Chiesazza,  founded  by  Robert  Guiscard  in  1077.  A  number  of  'ton- 
nare'  (for  catching  the  tunnyflsh)  are  observed  in  the  sea.  A  red 
flag  hoisted  near  them  in  the  month  of  May  indicates  that  a  shoal 
has  entered,  or  is  about  to  enter  the  nets  ,  and  is  a  signal  for  a  ge- 
neral onslaught  of  the  fishermen.  —  17  M.  8.  Niccola;  l91/2  M- 
Trabia,  a  fine  old  castle  on  the  coast.  Then  a  bridge  over  the  Fiume 
S.  Leonardo,  and  a  tunnel. 

23  M.  Termini  (Albergo  d'ltalia,  tolerable  ;  Rail.  Restaurant), 
one  of  the  busiest  provincial  towns  of  Sicily,  with  23,200  inhab., 
is  situated  on  a  promontory.  The  houses  of  the  nobility  lie  on  the 
hill,  those  of  the  merchants  on  the  E.  side.  The  maccaroni  (pasta) 
of  Termini  is  considered  the  best  in  Sicily. 

Termini  (Thermae  Himerenses),  probably  an  ancient  Phoenician  sea- 
port, was  founded  as  a  town  by  the  Carthaginians  in  407 ,  after  the  de- 
struction of  Himera.  It  soon,  however,  became  Hellenised  ,  and  in  the 
First  Pnnic  War  was  taken  by  the  Romans.  Under  the  latter  it  was  a  pro- 
sperous place ,  and  even  in  the  middle  ages  it  was  a  town  of  some  im- 
portance. Robert  of  Naples,  who  attacked  Sicily  in  1338,  besieged  the  strong 
castle  of  Termini  in  vain.    This  ancient  stronghold  was  destroyed  in  1860. 

The  substructures  of  a  Roman  basilica  have  been  excavated  in 
the  Villa  della  Cittit,  in  the  Piano  di  S.  Giovanni,  above  the  town 
(fine  *View),  where  there  are  also  traces  of  an  amphitheatre.  The 
Aqua  Cornelia,  a  Roman  aqueduct  to  the  S.E.  of  the  town,  was  de- 
stroyed in  1438.    Its  remains  from  Brucato  downwards  merit  a  visit 


ROCCAPALUMBA.  27.  Route.     291 

on  account  of  the  remarkable  fertility  of  the  surrounding  district. 
A  collection  of  prehistoric ,  Greek ,  and  Roman  antiquities  ,  and  a 
number  of  paintings  by  early  Sicilian  masters  are  preserved  at  the 
old  Ospedale  dei  Benfratelli  (fine  Gothic  windows  in  the  hall),  un- 
der the  charge  of  Prof.  S.  Ciofalo.  Termini  was  the  birthplace  of 
Niccolo  Palmieri,  a  distinguished  Sicilian  political  economist  and 
historian,  who  is  interred  in  the  Chiesa  del  Monte.  The  bath-estab- 
lishment, situated  on  the  E.  side  of  the  hill,  was  founded  by  Fer- 
dinand I.,  and  is  well  fitted  up.  The  springs  (110°  Fahr.)  contain 
Epsom  salts.  The  baths  are  extolled  by  Pindar.  —  The  finest  view 
near  Termini  is  afforded  by  the  rocks  above  the  castle. 

On  a  rocky  slope  above  the  Fiume  S.  Leonardo,  4  JI.  from  Termini, 
lies  Caccamo,  containing  8000inhab.,  and  commanding  a  fine  view.  —  The 
ascent  of  the  precipitous  Monte  San  Calogero  (4085  ft.)  is 'recommended, 
if  the  authorities  report  no  danger  from  brigands  (8-9  hrs.  from  Termini). 

From  Termini  to  Ce/alii,  see  R.  31. 

From  Tekmini  to  Leonfoete.  This  road,  about  62'/2  M.  in  length, 
was  once  the  route  usually  pursued  by  the  Arabs  on  their  predatory  in- 
cursions from  Palermo  into  the  interior.  It  ascends  by  the  Fiume  Torto 
to  Cerda  (see  below),  crosses  the  mountain,  and  descends  to  the  valley  of  the 
Fiume  Grande  and  the  small  town  of  Sclafani,  which  possesses  hot  springs 
of  some  repute  (bare  and  uninviting  bath-rooms)  and  a  church  containing 
an  antique  sarcophagus  with  Bacchic  reliefs.  The  next  little  town,  Calta- 
vuturo  (18  M.  from  Termini),  is  of  Saracenic  origin  (Kalat-Abi-Thaur),  and 
was  taken  by  Roger  I.,  who  bestowed  it  on  his  daughter  Matilda.  It  now 
contains  6000  inhabitants.  [To  the  E.  of  Caltavuturo,  on  a  rock  3000  ft. 
in  height,  lies  Polizzi,  surnamed  La  Genero&a,  a  town  of  considerable  im- 
portance in  the  middle  ages,  near  which  rise  the  Himera  Meridionalis 
(Fiume  Salso)  and  the  Himera  Septentrionalis  (Fiume  Grande),  which  the 
ancients  believed  to  possess  one  common  source.]  The  road  next  leads  to 
Petralia  di  Sotto  and  di  Sopra,  two  country-towns  in  a  fertile  district  with 
imposing  mountainous  environs ,  occupying  the  site  of  the  ancient  Pelra 
or  Petraea.  To  the  S.,  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  lie  Buonpietro  and  Alimena. 
The  latter  was  conquered  by  the  Saracens  in  843,  and  is  perhaps  the 
ancient  Jffemichara  or  Imachara. 

From  Petralia  the  road  traverses  a  lofty  mountain  to  (6  M.)  Gangi,  a 
town  with  14,000  inhab.,  the  ancient  Sikelian  Enguium,  originally  a  Cretan, 
i.e.  a  Phoenician  colony,  where  in  Cicero's  time  a  celebrated  temple  of  the 
'Cretan  Mothers'  (Matres;  not  Mater  Magna  as  Cicero  has  it),  despoiled  by 
Verres ,  was  situated.  The  road  leads  hence  through  a  fertile  tract  to 
(9  M.)  Sperlinga  (2590  ft.) ,  which  alone  showed  partiality  to  the  French 
in  1282,  whence  the  saying,  'Quod  Siculis  placuit  sola  Sperlinga  negavif ; 
thence  to  (3  M.)  Nicosia ,  with  15,500  inhabitants  who  speak  a  Lombard 
dialect,  a  town  of  thoroughly  mediseval  appearance,  regarded  as  more 
behind  the  age  than  any  other  in  Sicily.  The  road  then  passes  Rocca  di 
Sarno,  where  the  brave  Norman  Serlo  perished  through  treachery,  and 
leads  to  Leonforte  (p.  301). 

The  train  coatinues  to  skirt  the  coast ,  with  the  Monte  San 
Calogero  rising  on  the  right,  crosses  the  Fiume  Torto,  and  then 
turns  inland  towards  the  S.,  following  the  right  bank  of  the  stream. 

28  M.  Cerda;  the  village  lies  on  the  hill  to  the  left,  4  M. 
from  the  station;  on  the  right  rises  the  M.  Calogero.  —  32  M. 
Sciara.  The  train  crosses  the  Fiume  Torto,  passes  through  a  tunnel, 
and  beyond  (35!/2M.)  Causo  re-crosses  the  stream.  —  38  M.  Monte- 
maggiore.     The  river  is  again  crossed. 

44  M.   Roccapalumba  (Rail.   Restaurant),  junction  for  the  line 

19* 


292     Route  27.  MACCALTJBI. 

to  Palermo  and  Catania  (p.  298) ;  change  carriages  for  Girgenti.  — 
The  village  lies  at  some  distance  to  the  right.  On  a  steep  hill 
(2400  ft.)  to  the  left,  4  M.  from  the  railway,  is  situated  the  town 
of  Alia,  with  5000  inhabitants. 

The  train  for  Girgenti  ascends,  and  crosses  the  watershed  between 
the  Tyrrhenian  and  African  seas.  Two  tunnels.  —  48  M.  Lercara 
(Rail.  Restaurant),  near  which  are  the  northernmost  sulphur-mines 
in  the  island.  The  train  leaves  the  town  on  the  hill  to  the  right,  passes 
through  a  tunnel,  and  enters  the  valley  of  the  Platani.  To  the 
right  opens  the  beautiful  basin  of  (53  M.)  Castronovo.  On  the  Cas- 
saro ,  a  hill  above  Castronovo  ,  are  some  mural  remains  of  a  very 
ancient  town.  The  yellow  marble  columns  at  Caserta  were  quarried 
here.  The  ruins  of  the  mediaeval  Castronovo  lie  at  the  foot  of  the 
Cassaro.    The  train  then  crosses  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Platani. 

55!/2  M.  Cammarata ,  a  town  with  6000  inhabitants.  The 
Pizzo  di  Cammarata  or  Monte  Gemini  (5200  ft.)  is  one  of  the 
highest  mountains  in  the  island,  and  commands  a  magnificent  view. 
The  ascent  may  be  easily  made  in  2!/2  hrs.  (footpath  all  the  way 
to  a  chalet  just  below  the  summit).  — An  interesting  mountain- 
path  (guide  necessary)  leads  past  Monte  Chilombo  to  the  town  of 
Castel  Termini  (Loc.  Cajetani),  with  numerous  sulphur-mines. 

62  M.  Acquaviva  -  Platani .  To  the  E.  is  the  little  town  of 
Mussumeli,  near  which  is  a  castle  of  the  15th  cent.,  formerly  in  the 
possession  of  the  Chiaramonti  now  belonging  to  Signor  Lanza  di 
Trabia.  —  65  M.  Sutera ;  the  town  (4500  inhab.),  with  a  ruined 
castle,  is  situated  on  a  hill  to  the  left  {Pizzo  di  Sutera,  2685  ft.).  In 
860  the  Arabs  called  the  town  Sottr.  It  is  supposed  by  some  to  have 
been  the  ancient  Camicus,  where  Daedalus  built  a  castle  for  Cocalus. 

Beyond  (66y2  M.)  Campofranco  the  train  passes  through  a 
narrow  and  rocky  defile  between  the  Monte  di  Roveto  on  the  right 
and  the  Rocca  Grande  on  the  left.  The  valley  opens  near  Passo- 
fonduto.  Farther  on  ,  the  train  skirts  the  left  bank  of  the  Platani 
for  a  short  distance,  and  then  ascends  a  side-valley  towards  the  S. 
74  M.  Comitini,  with  valuable  sulphur-mines.  On  a  hill ,  Pfe  M. 
to  the  W. ,  lies  Aragona,  with  12,500  inhab.  and  a  modern  chateau. 

77^2  M.  Aragona-Caldare  (Cafe  at  the  station),  the  junction  of 
the  railway  to  Catania  (R.  29). 

The  mud-volcano  of  Maccalubi,  4  M.  to  the  "W.,  interesting  to  scientific 
travellers,  may  be  visited  from  this  point  (guide,  at  the  station,  1-2  fr.). 
The  hill,  formed  of  limestone  and  clay,  is  about  135  ft.  in  height  (860  ft. 
above  the  sea-level),  and  is  covered  with  cones,  l'/2-3  ft.  high,  the  upper 
cavities  of  which  are  filled  with  mud ,  and  from  clefts  in  which  carbur- 
etted  hydrogen  gas  issues  with  more  or  less  noise.  The  ground,  where- 
ever  it  has  been  touched  by  the  mud,  becomes  utterly  barren  and  looks 
as  though  it  had  been  scorched. 

To  the  right  opens  a  splendid  view  over  the  hills  as  far  as  the 
distant  sea.  —  84  M.  Girgenti,  see  p.  293.  . —  The  train  descends, 
skirting  the  hill  on  which  the  town  lies,  passes  through  a  short 
tunnel,  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Fiume  di  Girgenti,  and  reaches  — 


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GIRGENTI.  28.  Route.    293 

90  M.  Porto  Empedocle ,  formerly  called  Molo  di  Oirgenti,  a 
busy  little  seaport  -with  7500  inhab.,  where  the  sulphur  and  corn- 
dealers  of  Girgenti  have  extensive  magazines. 

28.  Girgenti. 

Hotels.  *H6tel  des  Temples,  in  the  former  Villa  Genuardi,  of  the 
first  class,  situated  about  '/s  M.  from  the  town,  on  the  way  to  the  temples, 
closed  in  summer,  R.  3-5,  L.  1,  A.  1,  B.  IV2,  dej.  3'/2,  D.  5,  pens,  for  a 
stay  of  some  time  10-15,  omn.  from  station  li/2  fr. ;  Hot.  Grande  Beetagne, 
Via  Atenea,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3-4  fr.,  the  rooms  are  good,  otherwise  mediocre; 
"Albeego  Belvedere',  prettily  situated,  R.,  L.,  Si  A.  2lJ2,  B.  l'/4,  pens.  8, 
omn.  1  fr. ;  Alb.   Centeale,   R.  &  L.  2  fr.,  unpretending. 

Restaurants  and  Cafes.  Gellia ,  in  the  Hot.  Grande  Bretagne,  see 
above;  Brasile,  Leon  d'Oro,  Via  Atenea;  Cafil  Palermo,  very  unpretending. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Via  Atenea. 

Railway  to  Palermo,  see  R.  27;  to  Catania,  see  R.  29.  —  Steamboats, 
see  p.  276.  —  Diligence  to  Palma  daily  at  5  a.m. 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  the  (2V4  M.)  town  2  fr. ;  'un  posto',  or 
a  seat  for  a  single  traveller,  50  c,  luggage  25  c.  (after  sunset  1  fr.  incl. 
luggage).  Carriages  wait  in  the  Via  Atenea  to  take  passengers  from  the 
town  to  the  station.  —  To  the  ruins  and  back,  carriages  according  to  tariff ; 
for  3  hrs.  5  fr.,  for  each  additional  hr.  l'/a  fr.  The  traveller  should  stipu- 
late that  a  visit  to  the  Rock  of  Athene  is  included ;  supply  of  provisions 
necessary. 

Disposal  of  Time.  A  day  suffices  for  the  sights ;  by  means  of  an  early 
start  and  the  use  of  a  carriage,  they  may  be  overtaken  in  half  a  day. 
The  walk  to  the  temples  and  back  takes  2'/2  hrs.,  besides  the  time  spent 
in  the  inspection.  Balvatore  Messina,  who  speaks  French,  may  be  recom- 
mended as  a  guide  to  the  ruins  (5  fr.  per  day),  but  unnecessary. 

British  Vice  Consul,  Mr.  E.  A.  Oates.  —  American  Consular  Agent, 
Sig.  Bugenio  Bottazzi. 

The  beggars  and  children  harass  visitors  with  their  importunity 
against  which  patience  is  the  only  defence.  Hawkers  both  in  the  town 
and  at  the  temples  offer  spurious  antiquities  for  sale. 

Oirgenti  (1082  ft.),  the  Acragas  of  the  Greeks  and  the  Agrigen- 
tum  of  the  Romans,  in  the  middle  ages  the  most  richly  endowed 
bishopric  in  Sicily,  has  21,300  inhabitants.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  pre- 
fect, and  the  military  headquarters  of  the  district.  It  is  now  pro- 
vided with  water-works,  partly  constructed  from  an  ancient  aque- 
duct. The  four  gates  are  the  Porta  del  Molo,  del  Ponte,  Biberia,  and 
Panitteri.  The  trade  of  the  town  is  considerable,  nearly  one-sixth 
of  the  Sicilian  sulphur  being  exported  from  Porto  Empedocle,  the 
seaport  of  Girgenti  (see  above). 

Acragas,  'the  most  beautiful  city  of  mortals'  according  to  Pindar,  was 
founded  by  colonists  from  Gela  in  582.  The  Doric  settlers,  some  of  them 
natives  of  Rhodes,  introduced  the  worship  of  Athene  of  Lindus  and  also 
that  of  Zeus  Atabyrius,  i.e.  the  Moloch  of  Mt.  Tabor.  After  having 
erected  a  temple  to  Zeus  Polieus,  'the  founder  of  cities'1,  Phalaris  usurped 
the  supreme  power  with  the  assistance  of  his  workmen,  and  ruled  from 
564  to  549,  when  he  was  deposed  by  the  Eumenides  Telemachus,  and  an 
oligarchy  of  sixty  years  now  began.  The  cruelty  of  Phalaris  has  become 
proverbial ;  he  is  said,  for  instance,  to  have  sacrificed  human  victims  to 
Zeus  Atabyrius  in  red-hot  bulls  of  metal.  In  488  Theron,  a  descendant 
of  Telemachus,  subverted  the  oligarchy,  and  extended  the  dominions  of 
Acragas  as  far  as  the  N.  coast,  where  he  conquered  Himera.  Allied  with 
his  son-in-law  Gelon,  the  tyrant  of  Syracuse,  he  defeated  the  Carthaginians 
at  Himera  in  480  (p.  308),  after  which  he  devoted  his  attention  to  the  im- 


294     Route  28.  GIRGENTI.  History. 

provement  of  Acragas.  The  town  stood  on  a  hill  descending  precipitously 
on  the  N.  side,  and  sloping  gently  towards  the  coast  on  the  S.,  hounded 
by  the  two  rivers  Acragas  ( S.  Biagio)  and  Hypsas  (Drago).  It  consisted 
of  two  parts:  the  Acropolis  to  the  N.,  the  W.  part  of  which,  where  the 
temple  of  Zeus  Polieus  stood,  contains  the  modern  town  (1080  ft.)-  while 
the  E.  part  was  called  the  Rock  of  Athene  (1105  ft.);  and  the  town  proper 
to  the  S.,  by  the  walls  of  which  the  ruined  temples  now  lie.  (The  W.  part 
of  the  Acropolis  has  been  sometimes  erroneously  identified  with  the  Sicanian 
town  of  Camicus.)  The  prisoners  of  war  captured  in  480  (of  whom  some  of 
the  citizens  possessed  as  many  as  500  each)  were  compelled  to  excavate 
the  subterranean  canals ;  the  temples  were  also  erected  at  that  period,  and 
a  large  fish-pond  constructed.  T/trasydaeus,  the  son  of  Theron  (d.  B.C.  473), 
was  very  inferior  to  his  father,  and  was  soon  expelled  by  the  citizens,  who 
established  a  republican  form  of  government,  afterwards  perfected  by  Em- 
pedocles  (d.  about  424).  The  wealth  and  luxury  of  the  city,  which  formed 
the  chief  emporium  of  the  trade  with  Carthage,  now  reached  their  climax. 
Citizens  like  Antisthenes  and  Gellias  (or  Tellias)  exercised  a  princely  mu- 
nificence. The  population  has  been  stated  at  200,000,  and  even  at  800,000, 
but  the  latter  figure,  if  not  wholly  erroneous,  must  include  the  slaves  and 
the  inhabitants  of  the  municipal  territory.  The  city  remained  neutral  dur- 
ing the  war  between  Athens  and  Syracuse.  The  Carthaginians  soon  after 
overran  the  island,  and  their  generals  Himilco  and  Hannibal  captured 
the  rich  city  of  Acragas,  which  was  betrayed  by  its  own  mercenaries  and 
deserted  by  its  citizens.  In  406  Himilco  caused  the  city  to  be  plundered 
and  the  works  of  art  to  be  sent  to  Carthage.  The  temples  were  burned 
down  (traces  of  the  action  of  fire  being  still  believed  to  be  observable  on 
the  temple  of  Juno).  The  city  was  afterwards  partly  rebuilt,  but  until 
the  time  of  Timoleon  remained  of  little  importance.  That  hero  sent  a 
colony  thither,  and  the  town  again  prospered,  at  one  time  as  an  in- 
dependent state,  at  another  under  the  Carthaginian  supremacy.  In  the 
First  Pnnic  War  the  citizens,  as  the  allies  of  Carthage,  were  in  a  position 
to  furnish  the  Carthaginians  with  a  contingent  of  25,000  men,  and  in 
262  the  Romans  besieged  the  city.  The  battle  fought  without  the  walls 
was  not  decisive,  but  was  so  favourable  to  the  Romans,  that  the  Cartha- 
ginians were  compelled  to  withdraw  their  troops  to  Heraclea.  The  city 
was  then  captured  by  the  Romans ,  and  shortly  after  retaken  by  the 
Carthaginian  general  Carthalo.  In  the  Second  Punic  War  the  Carthagin- 
ians maintained  themselves  longest  in  this  part  of  Sicily,  and  Acragas 
came  into  the  possession  of  the  Romans  only  through  the  treachery  of 
the  Numidians.  Thenceforward  the  town  (Agrigentum)  was  a  place  of 
little  importance.  The  Saracens  took  possession  of  it  in  828,  and  it 
became  a  rival  of  Palermo ,  being  chiefly  colonised  by  the  Berbers.  In 
1086  the  town  was  taken ,  and  a  well-endowed  bishopric  founded,  by 
Roger  I.,  and  St.  Gerlando  became  the  first  bishop. 

The  road  to  Poito  Empedocle,  quitting  the  town  by  the  E.  gate, 
the  Porta  del  Ponte,  and  leading  to  the  ruins  via  the  Passeggiata 
(p.  298),  skirts  the  foot  of  the  Rook  of  Athene  {Rupe  Atenea,  p.  298), 
and  passes  the  Hotel  des  Temples  (on  the  right).  A  route  for  foot- 
passengers  diverges  to  the  right,  below  the  barracks,  as  soon  as  the 
town  is  quitted,  and  leads  direct  to  S.  Nicola  (p.  295).  Straight 
in  front,  at  the  S.  E.  angle  of  the  ancient  city,  is  the  temple  of 
Juno  Lacinia  (p.  295). 

The  turning  to  the  left  at  the  first  fork  of  the  road  leads  to  a  small 
shed,  in  which  is  the  Fonte  dei  Greet,  the  mouth  of  an  antique  conduit 
4'/2  M.  in  length,  which  even  yet  supplies  the  town  with  diinkin»  water! 
About  1/2  M.  farther  on  in  the  same  direction  (to  the  left  a^ain  at  trie  fork) 
we  reach  the  remains  of  a  small  Greek  temple  in  aniis ,  the  fo-called 
Temple  of  Ceres  and  Proserpine,  converted  into  the  church  of  <S.  Biagio  in 
the  Norman  period.  The  right  branch  of  the  last-mentioned  fork  brings  us 
to  a  hollow  way,  forming  in  antiquity  the  approach  from  the  river. 


Temple  of  Concord.  GIRGENTI.  28.  Route.   295 

The  branch  to  the  right  at  the  first  fork  leads  in  a  wide  curve 
to  the  little  Gothic  church  of  8.  Nicola ,  built  into  a  more  an- 
cient edifice,  of  which  a  fragment  is  visible  behind  the  high-altar. 
The  portal  has  been  restored.  Adjacent  is  the  so-called  Oratory  of 
Phalaris,  originally  a  Koman  sanctuary  and  afterwards  converted  into 
a  Norman  chapel.  Fine  panorama  in  front  of  it.  In  the  adjacent  Pa- 
nitteri  garden  are  portions  of  statues  and  Corinthian  entablatures. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  S.  wall  of  the  ancient  city,  where  the  tem- 
ples lay,  ascending  the  narrow  road  that  turns  to  the  left  after 
10  min.,  and  leads  past  the  Temple  of  Concord  (see  below). 
At  the  S.  E.  angle  ,  magnificently  situated  above  a  steep  preci- 
pice, 390  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  is  the  so-called  **Temple  of  Juno 
Lacinia.  This  name,  however,  rests  merely  on  a  confusion 
betwixt  this  temple  and  the  temple  of  Juno  at  Croton ,  for  which 
Zeuxis  painted  a  picture  of  Helen.  The  temple  is  a  peripteros- 
hexastylos  with  thirty-four  columns  of  the  best  period  of  the  Doric 
style  (5th  cent.  B.C.).  The  columns  have  twenty  flutes,  and  their 
height  is  Ave  times  their  diameter.  Earthquakes  have  here  completed 
the  work  of  destruction :  twenty-five  whole  pillars  only  are  left  stand- 
ing, while  nine  half-ones  have  been  re-erected.  All  have  been  dis- 
integrated on  their  S.E.  sides  by  exposure  to  the  Scirocco.  In  front 
of  the  pronaos  of  the  temple  are  two  narrow  terraces.  To  the 
W.  an  ancient  cistern.  —  On  the  S.  side  part  of  the  old  town- 
wall  ,  consisting  of  huge  masses  of  rock ,  is  still  preserved.  In 
the  rock  beneath  the  temple  are  ancient  tombs. 

The  so-called  **Temple  of  Concord,  farther  to  the  "W.,  is  one  of 
the  best-preserved  ancient  temples  in  existence .  as  it  was  con- 
verted in  the  middle  ages  into  a  church  of  S.  Gregorio  delle  Rapi 
('of  the  turnips').  The  arched  openings  in  the  wall  of  the  cella 
belong  to  that  period.  The  temple  is  a  peripteros-hexastylos, 
later  than  that  of  Juno  Lacinia,  but  also  erected  before  the  decline 
of  the  Doric  style.  Its  thirty-four  columns  with  the  architrave  and 
frontons  are  still  standing.  The  right  corner  of  the  front  pediment, 
and  the  incisions  for  beams  are  almost  all  of  later  origin.  Staircases 
in  the  comers  of  the  wall  of  the  cella  ascend  to  the  summit. 

On  the  left  of  the  road,  between  this  and  the  next  temple,  on 
this  side  of  the  white  wall,  is  the  entrance  to  an  early  Christian 
catacomb ,  called  Grotta  de'  Frangapani,  the  centre  of  which  is 
formed  by  a  circular  room  with  several  rows  of  'arcosolia'  (vaulted 
tombs  in  the  walls).  A  second  story,  lying  deeper  in  the  rock,  has 
been  made  partly  accessible.  The  oldest  part  of  the  catacomb 
appears  to  date  from  the  2nd  century.  It  is  doubtful  whether 
the  numerous  tombs  cut  in  the  rocks  adjoining  this  catacomb  are 
of  Christian  origin. 

Not  far  from  the  Temple  of  Concord  are  the  insignificant  ruins  of 
the  so-called  *Temple  of  Hercules,  a  peripteros-hexastylos  of  thirty- 
eight  columns(surroundedwith  awall;  thecustodian  opens  the  gate). 


296  .  Route  28.  GIRGENTI.  Temple  of  Zeus. 

The  back  part  of  the  cella  consists  of  three  adjacent  rooms.  The 
temple  was  restored  during  the  Roman  period.  A  statue  of  ^Escu- 
lapius,  found  here,  is  now  in  the  museum  at  Palermo.  The  temple 
is  said  to  have  contained  the  famous  painting  of  Alcmene  by  Zeuxis. 
From  it  Verres  attempted  to  steal  the  statue  of  Hercules  by  night, 
but  his  workmen  were  repulsed  by  the  pious  citizens. 

Adjoining  the  temple  is  the  Porta  Aurea,  the  town-gate  towards 
the  harbour,  by  which  the  Romans  entered  the  city  in  210.  Roads 
to  Porto  Empedocle  and  the  Molo  lead  through  this  gate. 

To  the  left,  outside  the  Porta  Aurea,  is  the  so-called  *Tomb  of 
Theron,  which,  like  the  temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux  and  the  Ora- 
torium  of  Phalaris,  is  of  the  later  Greek,  or  perhaps  of  the  Roman 
period.  In  a  house  between  the  Tomb  of  Theron  and  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Acragas  and  Hypsas,  where  the  army  of  the  Romans 
was  posted  during  the  siege,  are  preserved  fragments  of  an  edifice 
which  appears  to  have  been  a  'templum  in  antis',  perhaps  the 
Temple  of  ^Esculapius,  containing  the  celebrated  statue  of  Apollo 
by  Myron,  which  is  generally  believed  to  have  once  stood  here. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Porta  Aurea  lie  the  equally  unimportant  ruins  of 
the  Temple  of  Zens,  which  was  never  completed  (closed,  small  fee  to 
custodian).  This  vast  structure,  which  has  been  extolled  by  Poly- 
bius  and  described  by  Diodorus,  was  erected  in  the  5th  cent.  B.C. 
It  was  a  pseudo-peripteros  with  thirty-seven  or  thirty-eight  huge 
half-columns,  seven  at  each  end  (perhaps  only  six  at  the  "W.  end), 
and  fourteen  on  each  side ,  each  20  ft.  in  circumference ,  with 
flutings  broad  enough  to  admit  of  a  man  standing  in  each.  The  flat 
backs  of  the  columns  formed  a  series  of  pilasters.  The  entrance 
has  not  been  definitely  determined,  but  traces  of  steps  are  believed 
to  have  been  found  at  the  \V.  end.  Within  the  walls  of  the  cella, 
although  uncertain  where,  stood  the  colossal  Telamones  or  Atlantes, 
one  of  which  has  been  reconstructed,  and  measures  25  ft.  in  height. 
They  are  supposed  to  have  been  placed  either  in  front  of  the  pil- 
asters, or  above  them  as  bearers  of  the  entablature.  In  the  tympa- 
num of  the  E.  side  (or  according  to  some  authorities,  on  the  me- 
topae)  was  represented  the  contest  of  the  gods  with  the  giants,  on 
the  W.  side  the  conquest  of  Troy.  Entire  portions  of  the  side- 
walls  have  fallen  outwardly,  and  now  lie  with  the  same  relative 
disposition  of  their  parts  as  when  erect.  The  notches  and  grooves 
were  either  for  fitting  the  stones  into  each  other,  or  for  raising 
them  to  their  places.  Down  to  1401  a  considerable  part  of  the 
temple  was  still  in  existence,  but  it  has  been  gradually  removed, 
and  in  recent  times  was  laid  under  contribution  to  aid  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  Molo  of  Girgenti. 

Near  this  temple,  to  the  N.  W.,  M.  Cavallari  has  caused  four 
Doric  columns  of  a  temple  to  be  re-erected,  which  is  commonly 
called  that  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  though  without  sufficient  ground. 
Portions  of  two  distinct  temples,  however,  have  been  used  in  the 


Cathedral. 


GIRGENTI. 


?<S.  Route.  297 


restoration.  Fragments  of  the  entablature  bear  distinct  traces  of 
stucco  and  colouring.  It  was  a  peripteros-hexastylos  of  34  columns. 
Near  it  are  the  substructures  of  other  ancient  buildings.  Fine  view 
towards  the  N.  from  the  brink  of  the  so-called  piscina  (see  below). 
Approximate  Dimensions  of  the  temples  in  English  feet:  — 


Ceres 

Juno  Lac. 

Concord 

Hercul. 

Zeus 

Cast. 
<kPol. 

JEscul. 

Length  incl.  steps 

90 

134 

138 

241 

363 

Ill 

— 

Breadth     .     .     . 

40 

64 

64>|j 

90 

182 

51 

40 

Length  of  cella 

- 

91 

94 

156 

302 

79 

25 

Breadth  of  cella 

- 

30 

30 

45 

63 

181(2 

— 

Height  of  columns 
with  capitals  . 

— 

21 

22i/3 

33 

55 

21 

— 

Diameter    of  col- 
umns     .     .     . 

— 

4 

4'|2 

7 

143|4 

33|4 

— 

Intercolumnia    . 

— 

5i|2 

5i|2 

73|4 

— 

— 

— 

Height  of  entabla- 
ture  .... 

- 

— 

9>|2 

— 

— 

— 

— 

On  the  other  side  of  the  hollow,  which  is  said  to  have  once 
been  occupied  by  the  fish-pond  (piscina)  mentioned  by  Diodorus, 
is  a  garden  containing  remains  of  the  so-called  Temple  of  Vulcan, 
whence  a  flue  view  of  the  temples  opposite  is  obtained.  Of  the 
spring  of  oil  mentioned  by  Pliny  no  trace  has  been  found.  The 
Hippodrome  probably  lay  to  the  N.  of  the  temple  of  Vulcan.  Remains 
of  the  celebrated  Cloacae  of  Phaeax  still  exist  in  the  Piscina. 

We  now  inspect  the  Modern  Town.  The  loftily-situated  Cathe- 
dral (1080  ft.),  on  the  N.  side,  begun  in  the  14th  cent.,  has  been 
so  completely  modernised,  that  only  a  single  column  on  the  left  side 
bears  any  visible  trace  of  the  original  style  (polygonal  pillar,  with 
foliage  capital).  The  best  part  is  the  unfinished  campanile,  which 
commands  an  admirable  view.  The  interior  contains  (last  altar  on 
the  right)  a  Madonna  by  Guido  Reni;  and  in  the  Aula  Capitolare,  at 
the  end  of  the  left. aisle,  is  a  celebrated  Marble  Sarcophagus  with 
reliefs  of  the  myth  of  Hippolytus  (small  fee  to  the  sacristan). 

On  the  right  side  Hippolytus  hunting.  On  one  end  Phaedra  pining  for 
love,  with  her  attendants.  On  the  left  side  the  nurse  divulges  to  Hippolytus 
the  love  of  his  step-mother.  On  the  fourth  side  death  of  Hippolytus. 

An  acoustic  peculiarity  in  the  cathedral  is  noteworthy.  A  person  stand- 
ing on  the  steps  of  the  high-altar  can  distinguish  every  word  spoken  on  the 
threshold  of  the  principal  W.  entrance,  though  the  distance  is  about  100ft. 

In  the  Treasury  are  two  early  mediaeval  enamelled  caskets. 
The  Cathedral  Archives  (entered  from  the  cathedral)  contain  nu- 
merous documents  of  the  Norman  period  of  Sicilian  history. 

From  the  cathedral  we  proceed  to  the  neighbouring  church  of 
S.  Maria  dei  Oreci  (closed,  custodian  !/2  fr-)>  which  contains  frag- 


298     Route  28.  GIRGENTI. 

ments  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Polieus  or  of  Athene.  It  was  a 
peripteros-hexastylos,  but  its  dimensions  are  unknown.  Its  remains 
are  the  most  ancient  in  Girgenti.  The  wall  of  a  low  passage  "beside 
the  church  has  six  column-bases  built  into  it. 

The  Museum,  under  the  supervision  of  Sig.  Celi,  contains  an 
archaic  marble  statue  of  *Apollo,  a  sarcophagus  with  triglyph-reliefs 
(found  near  the  sea  in  1886),  vases,  coins,  and  fragments  of  marbles. 
—  The  Biblioteca  Lucchesiana,  near  the  cathedral  and  in  the  same 
street,  was  founded  in  the  18th  cent,  by  Bishop  Lucchesi ,  after- 
wards Archbishop  of  Palermo,  and  is  now  the  property  of  the  town. 

The  most  interesting  mediaeval  structure  is  the  portal  of  San 
Giorgio.  —  Near  the  Church  del  Purgatorio  is  the  entrance  to  the 
old  'Catacombs',  or  subterranean  quarries  below  the  present  town. 

The  Passeggiata  ,  below  the  Rupe  Atenea ,  where  a  band  plays 
three  times  a  week,  in  the  evening  in  summer,  and  from  12  to  1 
in  winter,  commands  a  charming  view.  In  clear  weather  the  island 
of  Pantelleria  is  visible  shortly  before  sunset. 

From  the  terrace  outside  the  B.  town-gate  we  ascend  past  the 
suppressed  Capuchin  monastery  of  S.  Vito  (at  the  cross-road  to  the 
right)  to  the  *Kock  of  Athene  (1150  ft.),  or  Rupe  Atenea.  It  has 
been  supposed  that  a  temple  of  Athene  once  stood  at  the  top,  which 
has  evidently  been  levelled  by  human  agency,  but  the  most  recent 
investigations  show  this  to  be  very  doubtful.  According  to  a  local 
tradition,  the  depression  between  the  town  and  the  rock^  was  arti- 
ficially formed  by  Empedocles  to  admit  of  the  passage  of  the  N. 
wind  (the  'Tramontana')  and  thus  dispel  the  malaria.  The  view  in 
every  direction  is  magnificent,  particularly  by  evening-light.  The 
ancient  town-wall  crossed  the  Rock  of  Athene,  but  no  traces  of 
this  part  of  it  are  preserved. 

A  visit  to  the  Sulphur  Mines  near  Girgenti  is  also  interesting.  Visitors 
with  letters  of  introduction  are  received  with  great  civility. 

29.  From  Palermo  and  Girgenti  to  Catania. 

From  Palermo  to  Catania,  151  M. ,  railway  in  7-10'/2  hrs.  (fares 
27  fr.  50,  19  fr.  25,  12  fr.  40  c;  express,  30  fr.  25,  21  fr.  15  c).  —  From 
Girgenti  to  Catania  ,  114  M.,  railway  in  8-9  hrs.  (fares  21  fr.  60,  15  fr.  15, 
9  fr.  85  c. ;  express,  beyond  S.  Caterina-Xirbi,  22  fr.  95,  16  fr.).  —  These 
two  lines  unite  at  S.  Caterina-Xirbi.  —  A  supply  of  refreshments  should 
be  taken,  as   railway-restaurants  are  few  and  far  between  on  this  line. 

From  Palermo  to  S.  Catkrina-Xirbi.  —  To  Roccapalumba, 
431/2  M.,  see  pp.  290-291.  The  country  is  bleak  and  deserted. 
54  M.  Valledolmo ;  59'/2M.  Vallelunga.  On  the  right  rises  the  Monte 
Campanaro.  62!/2M.  Villalba.  The  railway  here  reaches  the  valley 
of  the  Bilice,  which  flows  to  the  S.,  soon,  however,  leaving  it  by  a 
tunnel  nearly  4  M.  long,  through  the  mountain-range  in  front.  — 

66^2  M.  Marianopoli ;  the  village  lies  on  the  hill  some  distance  off. 

73  M.  Mimiani-8.  Cataldo.  S.  Cataldo;  is  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  railway,  to  the  S.  —  79  M.  S.  Caterina  Xirbi.  see  p.  299. 


OANICATTI.  29.  Boute.     299 

From  Girgenti  to  S.  Caterina-Xirbi.  —  To  Aragona-Ca Idare, 
6Y4  M.,  see  p.  292.  The  train  passes  through  several  tunnels  and 
traverses  a  district  full  of  sulphur-mines  ('zolfare').  To  the  right 
frequent  views  of  the  sea  and  Girgenti  are  obtained.  9  M.  Comitini- 
Zolfare;  13  M.  Orotte,  perhaps  the  ancient  Erbessus ,  whence  the 
Romans  derived  their  supplies  of  provisions  while  besieging  Agrig- 
entum  in  262.  —  14V2  M-  Racalmuto,  a  beautifully  situated  town 
with  12,000  inhabitants.  —  191/2  M-  Castrofilippo. 

23y3  M.  Canicatti.  The  town,  with  22,000  inhab.,  is  situated 
on  a  slight  eminence  to  the  W.  of  the  station. 

From  Canicatti  to  Licata.  28'/2  M.,  railway  in  2-2>/2  hrs.  (5  fr.  20, 
3  fr.  65,  2  fr.  35  c).  —  6  M.  Delia;  10l/2  Campobello,  a  town  with 7000  inhab., 
situated  on  a  hill  in  a  fertile  and  well-watered  district.  There  are  several 
large  sulphur-mines  in  the  vicinity.  I71/2  M.  Favarotta.  —  28 '/a  M.  Licata, 
see  p.  303. 

271/2  M.  Serradifalco,  a  small  town  from  which  Domenico  lo 
Faso  Pietrasanta,  Duca  di  Serradifalco  (d.  1863)  ,   the  editor  of  the 

'Antichita  della  Sicilia',   derived    his  title. 35  M.   <S.  Cataldo ; 

the  village,   named  after  St.  Cataldus  of  Tarentum ,   with  14,000 
inhabitants,  is  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station.  —  Several  tunnels. 

62!/2  M.  Caltanissetta  [Albergo  della  Ferrovia,  at  the  station, 
R.  I72  Il'-i  weH  spoken  of;  Concordia,  Italia,  both  tolerable,  with 
trattorie ;  *Cafe  near  the  cathedral) ,  a  provincial  capital  with 
30,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  a  hill.  A  band  plays  in  the  evening 
in  the  piazza  in  front  of  the  Cathedral  (>S.  Michele),  which  contains 
a  few  paintings  of  the  later  Sicilian  school.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  town 
is  the  Oiardino  Pubblico,  which  commands  a  striking  view  of  the 
surrounding  mountains  and  valleys,  especially  towards  the  E. 

About  2  31.  to  the  E.  of  Caltanissetta  lies  the  monastery  of  Badia  di 
S.  Spirito ,  a  fine  example  of  the  Norman  style,  erected  by  Roger  I. 
About  2  M.  farther  is  a  mud-volcano,  resembling  the  Maccalubi  (p.  292). 

At  S.  Caterina  {Loc.  Clementi ,  R.  4  fr.),  79  M.  from  Palermo 
and  43y2  M.  from  Girgenti,  the  two  lines  unite.  The  station  is  at 
Xirbi,  3  M.  from  the  miserable  little  town  of  S.  Caterina.  Coming 
from  Girgenti  we  catch  our  first  glimpse  of  Mount  ^Etna  just  before 
reaching  this  station.  The  following  distances  are  reckoned  from 
Palermo. 

83  M.  Imera,  beyond  which  the  line  crosses  the  Fiume  Salso 
(Himera  Meridionalis).  89  M.  Villarosa,  a  pleasant -looking  town, 
with  valuable  sulphur-mines  in  the  vicinity.  The  train  now  enters 
a  mountainous  region,  and  ascends  in  windings,  across  viaducts, 
and  through  tunnels.  It  then  threads  the  tortuous  ravine  between 
Calascibetta  (p.  300)  and  Castrogiovanni ,  affording  glimpses  of 
these  places  high  overhead.  Parts  of  the  line  traverse  very  unstable 
ground,  and  the  cuttings  are  provided  with  strong  vaulted  roofs. 

Qo1/^  M.  Castrogiovanni  (Rail.  Restaurant  J .  An  omnibus  (six 
times  daily;  fare  l1^  fr.)  ascends  in  about  1  hr.  from  the  station 
to  the  town.  On  the  rocks  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  stands  a  Roman 
altar.   Castrogiovanni  {Alb.  Centrale,  Via  Roma,  tolerable),  the  Arabic 


300    Route  29.  CASTROGIOVANNI.  From  Palermo 

Kasr-Yanni,  a  corruption  of  Enna ,  was  termed  'inexpugnabilis' 
by  Livy,  and  has  recently  been  very  strongly  fortified.  It  is  charm- 
ingly situated  on  the  level  summit  of  a  hill  (2605  ft.),  in  the  form 
of  a  horseshoe ,  and  open  towards  the  E.    Pop.  16,000. 

With  this  mountain  the  myths  of  the  most  ancient  inhabitants  were 
intimately  connected,  and  this  was  the  principal  scene  of  the  worship  of 
the  Demeter-Cora  of  the  aborigines.  The  fertility  of  the  soil  is  inferior  to 
what  it  was  in  ancient  times ,  when  dense  forests ,  brooks,  and  lakes 
converted  this  district  into  a  luxuriant  garden,  where  the  hounds,  it 
is  said,  lost  the  scent  of  their  game  amid  the  fragrance  of  the  flowers, 
and  the  fields  yielded  a  hundred-fold. 

Enna  or  Henna  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Syracuse  in  B.C.  664, 
and  shared  the  fortunes  of  its  mother-city.  In  402  it  fell  by  treachery 
into  the  hands  of  Dionysius  I. ;  Agathocles  also  possessed  himself  of  the 
town ;  in  the  First  Punic  War  it  was  captured  by  the  Carthaginians,  and 
finally  was  betrayed  to  the  Romans.  When  the  slaves  under  Eunus  had 
thrown  themselves  into  Enna  the  Romans  only  regained  possession  of  the 
place  after  a  fierce  struggle.  The  siege  lasted  for  two  years  (133-132), 
and  to  this  day  Roman  missiles  are  found  at  the  approach  to  Castrogio- 
vanni  where  the  ascent  is  most  gradual.  The  besieged  were  reduced 
by  famine  rather  than  by  force  of  arms.  In  837  the  Saracens  in  vain 
endeavoured  to  storm  the  town ,  to  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  whole 
surrounding  district  had  fled  for  refuge.  In  859  Abbas-ibn-Fahdl  gained 
possession  of  the  fortress  through  treachery,  a  prisoner  having  introduced 
the  Arabs  into  the  town  by  means  of  a  tunnel  on  the  N.  side.  The  booty 
was  enormous.  Some  of  the  women  were  sent  as  slaves  as  far  as  Bagdad. 
In  10S7  the  Normans  took  the  town.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  again 
partly  fortified. 

The  main  street  ascends  through  the  town  to  the  old  citadel, 
known  as  La  Rocca,  a  very  ancient  structure,  repaired  by  King 
Manfred,  with  numerous  towers.  The  *View  from  the  platform 
of  the  highest  tower  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Sicily ,  as  we  stand 
at  the  central  point  of  the  island  (Enna,  the  'umbilicus'  of  Sicily). 
Towards  the  E.  towers  the  pyramid  of  iEtna;  to  the  N.  run  two 
mountain -chains,  ramifications  of  the  Nebrodian  Mts. ;  towards  the 
N.N.E.  rises  Monte  Artesino  (3915  ft.),  beyond  the  hill  on  which 
Calascibetta  lies  (2880  ft.).  On  the  E.  prolongation  of  the  latter 
lie  Leonforte  and  Agira  ;  between  the  two,  more  in  the  background, 
Troina(seep.  301).  Farther  to  the  E.  is  Centuripe.  To  the  N.N. W., 
on  a  precipitous  ridge  between  Monte  Artesino  and  the  Madonian 
Mts.,  are  Petralia  Soprana  and  Gangi.  To  the  N.W.  S.  Calogero,  near 
Termini,  is  visible ;  to  the  W.  the  Pizzo  di  Cammarata ;  and  to  the  S. 
the  Hersean  Mts.,  Licata,  and  the  sea.  —  A  walk  round  the  citadel 
affords  a  series  of  beautiful  views.  ■ —  Not  a  vestige  is  left  of  the 
famous  temples  of  Demeter  (Ceres)  and  Proserpine.  The  former  is 
supposed  to  have  stood  where  La  Rocca  is  situated,  and  the  latter 
on  the  Monte  Salvo,  near  the  convent  of  the  Padri  Riformati. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  town  is  a  Castle,  built  by  Frederick  II. 
of  Aragon. 

The  Cathedral  was  founded  in  1307;  but  the  octagonal  choir 
is  now  the  only  relic  of  the  original  building.  In  the  interior,  to 
the  left,  is  a  censer  on  an  antique  stand.  The  alabaster  bases  of 
the  columns,  the  pulpit,  the  choir-stalls,  and  an  ancient  silver-gilt 


to  Catania.  CENTUEIPE.  29.  Route.    301 

tabernacle  are  also  note-worthy,  and  the  treasury  contains  many 
valuable  objects.  —  The  Biblioteca  Comunale  (librarian,  Avvocato 
Paolo  Vetri)  contains  some  good  incunabula.  —  Another  fine  view 
is  enjoyed  from  a  terrace  adjoining  the  Convento  8.  Francesco  in 
the  market-place. 

As  «  continue  our  journey  by  railway,  we  enjoy  a  beau- 
tiful retrospect  of  the  two  rocky  nests  of  Calascibetta  and  Cas- 
trogiovanni.  —  102^2  M.  Leonforte,  prettily  situated  on  a  hill 
to  the  left.  (Route  from  Leonforte  to  Termini,  see  p.  291.)  The 
train  now  enters  the  valley  of  the  Dittaino  (Chrysas).  —  108  M. 
Assaro-  Valguarnera,  the  ancient  Assorus,  a  Sikelian  town.  To  the 
left  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  Mount  ^Etna,  which  henceforth  remains 
in  sight.    IIOV2  M.  Raddusa. 

116M.  Agira,  formerly  8.  Filippo  d'Argirb.  The  town  lies 
on  a  hill  (2130  ft.),  about  il/2  M-  to  the  N.  of  the  station.  It  is 
one  of  'the  most  ancient  of  the  Sikelian  cities  (Agyrium).  The 
historian  Diodorus  gives  an  account  of  this  his  native  town,  and 
relates  how  Hercules  visited  it  during  his  wanderings  with  Iolaus 
and  was  worshipped  here.  It  has  thus  been  suggested  by  Movers 
that  a  Phoenician  colony  existed  here  at  a  remote  period.  Timoleon 
colonised  the  town  in  339  and  built  an  agora,  temple,  and  hand- 
some theatre,  of  which  no  traces  remain.  St.  Philip,  whose 
festival  is  on  1st  May ,  has  superseded  Hercules  as  the  tutelary 
genius  of  the  place.    Fine  marble  is  found  in  the  vicinity. 

About  4  M.  to  the  N.  of  Agira,  in  the  valley  of  the  brook  of  the  same 
name,  lies  Gagliano,  the  commandant  of  which,  Montaner  di  Sosa,  in  1300, 
lured  the  French  under  the  Count  of  Brienne  into  an  ambuscade,  so  that 
300  French  knights  were  captured  or  slain.  High  above  Gagliano  lies  Troina 
(3650  ft.),  the  loftiest  of  the  larger  towns  of  Sicily  (11,000  inhab.).  This  was 
one  of  the  first  towns  of  which  the  Normans  gained  possession  in  1062. 
Here  in  1063,  Roger  de  Hauteville,  with  his  heroic  wife  Giuditta  (Judith 
ofEvroult)  and  300  warriors,  defeated  the  rebellious  inhabitants  and  5000 
Saracens.  The  bishopric  founded  here  was  transferred  to  Messina  in 
1087.  In  the  Matrice  S.  Maria  traces  of  the  ancient  Norman  structure  are 
distinguishable. 

123  M.  Catenanuova-Centuripe.  On  the  hill  to  the  left,  5  M. 
from  the  station ,  and  rising  abruptly  above  the  valley  of  the 
Simeto,  is  situated  Centuripe,  or,  as  it  was  called  until  recently, 
Centorbi  {Albergo  della  Pace,  in  the  piazza,  very  poor),  with  9000 
inhabitants.  Magnificent  view  of  iEtna.  In  ancient  times  the 
situation  of  Centuripae  was  compared  with  that  of  Eryx.  During 
the  Roman  period  this  was  an  important  place.  In  1233  it  was 
destroyed  by  Frederick  II.  on  account  of  its  disaffection,  and  the 
population  removed  to  Augusta  (p.  350).  Remains  of  a  few  Roman 
buildings  are  preserved.  Numerous  vases,  terracottas,  coins,  and 
cut  stones  have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood.  Antonio  Came- 
rano  possesses  a  collection  of  gems  and  terracottas.  Between  the 
town  and  station  are  some  sulphur-mines.  An  introduction  to  the 
Sindaco  is  desirable. 

The  train  still  traverses  the  valley  of  the  Dittaino  for  a  short 


302     Route  29.  CALTAGIRONE. 

time.  A  picturesque  view  is  obtained  of  Centuripe  on  the  hill  to 
the  left,  and  of  JEtna  farther  on.  125'/2M.  Muglia;  130  M.  Sferro. 
A  view  is  now  obtained,  to  the  right"  of  the  exuberantly  fertile 
Piano  di  Catania,  which  begins  here.  133V2  M-  Gerbini.  Beyond 
(137  M.)  Portiere  Stella  the  train  crosses  the  Simeto,  which  receives 
the  Dittaino  a  little  to  the  S.  —  138  M.  Simeto;  1391/2  M.  Motta 
S.  Anastasia ;  the  town,  with  a  castle  on  a  precipitous  basaltic  cone, 
is  l!/2  M.  to  the  N.  146  M.  Bicocca  (no  restaurant),  where  the 
line  unites  with  that  from  Syracuse  to  Catania  (R.  38).  Before 
Catania  is  reached,  the  sea  is  again  visible ;  the  line  passes  through 
an  old  stream  of  lava  by  means  of  a  tunnel. 
151  M.  Catania,  see  p.  336. 

Fkom  Casteogiovanni  to  Catania  via  Caltagirone. 

From  Castrogiovanni  to  Caltagirone,  30  M.  The  bridle-path,  passing 
numerous  grottoes  and  caverns,  descends  to  the  S.  In  2  hrs.  the  Lago  Per- 
gusa  is  reached,  the  fabled  locality  whence  Pluto  carried  off  Proserpine. 
Of  the  shady  and  lofty  trees,  the  fragrant  flowers  on  the  banks  of  the 
lake  covered  with  swans,  and  the  'perpetuum  ver'  of  Ovid  not  a  trace 
remains.  The  lake,  with  its  clear,  dark  blue  water,  presents  a  pleasant 
appearance  in  spring  only.  At  other  times,  like  the  neighbouring  Stagni- 
cello,   it  is  a  dirty  pond,  used  by  the   inhabitants   for   steeping  their  flax. 

From  the  lake  to  Piazza  a  ride  of  13  31.  Before  reaching  Piazza  we 
join  the  carriage-road  which  leads  from  Calianissetta  (p.  299)  via  Pietraperzia 
(1460  ft.)  and  Barrafranca  to  (39  SI.)  Piazza. 

Piazza  Armerina  (Albergo  del  Sole),  Sicil.  Chiazza,  is  a  town  with  20,000 
inhabitants.  We  follow  the  Terranova  road  towards  the  S.  to  S.  Cono, 
where  the  road  to  Caltagirone  diverges  to  the  left. 

Caltagirone  ("Albergo  Centrale),  regarded  as  the  most  civilised  provincial 
town  in  Sicily  (32,400  inhab.).  Although  2170  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  it  is 
well-built  and  possesses  a  fine  promenade  and  market-place,  whence  a 
lofty  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  the  old  castle.  The  aristocracy  of  the 
place  is  zealous  in  promoting  public  education.  Pottery  is  the  staple 
commodity ,  and  the  traveller  may  purchase  very  characteristic,  well-exe- 
cuted figures  of  Sicilians  and  Calabrians,  in  their  national  costumes.  The 
town  commands  a  magnificent  view  in  every  direction. 

From  Caltagirone  diligence  to  Leone  in  7  hrs.  (25  M. ;  see  p.  349). 
On  the  mountain-range  to  the  right  lie  the  towns  of  Grammichele ,  Mineo 
(the  ancient  Menae,  founded  by  Ducetius,  and  taken  by  the  Saracens  in  840), 
and  Militello.  Near  Favarolta  the  road  passes  the  famous  Lacns  Palicorum 
(Lago  de1  Palici),  which  is  generally  490  ft.  in  circumference  and  13  ft. 
deep  in  the  middle.  In  dry  seasons  it  sometimes  disappears  entirely.  Two 
apertures  (fratres  Palici)  in  the  centre  emit  carbonic  acid  gas  with  such 
force  that  the  water  is  forced  upwards  to  a  height  of  2  ft.,  and  the  whole 
surface  is  agitated  as  if  boiling.  Birds  are  suffocated  in  attempting  to  fly 
across  the  lake,  and  horses  and  oxen  experience  difficulty  in  breathing  as 
soon  as  they  enter  the  water.  The  ancients  regarded  the  spot  as  sacred 
and  the  peculiar  resort  of  the  gods.  The  Dii  Palici  were  believed  to  he 
sons  of  Zeus  and  the  nymph  Thalia.  A  sumptuous  temple  was  accordingly 
erected  here,  to  which  the  pious  flocked  from  all  quarters,  but  every  vestige 
of  it  has  now  disappeared.  Fugitive  slaves  found  an  asylum  in  this  temple. 
An  oath  sworn  by  the  Dii  Palici  was  deemed  peculiarly  solemn.  At  no  great 
distance  from  this  spot  Ducetius  founded  the  town  of  Palica,  which  hat 
also  left  no  trace  of  its  existence.  The  name ,  however,  may  still  be  re- 
cognised in  Patagonia,  a  small  medieval  town,  once  the  property  of  the 
naval  hero  Roger  Loria.  Below  Palagonia  the  road  ascends  to  the  Fondact 
Tre  Fonlane;  to  the  right  lies  Scordia  (p.  349),  terminus  of  the  branch 
railway  from  Valsovoia,  on  which  Leone  is  a  station. 


303 

30.    From  Girgenti  to  Syracuse  via  Palma,  Licata, 
Terranova,  Modica  (  Val  d'Ispica),  and  Palazzolo. 

From  Girgenti  to  Syracuse  the  traveller  may  either  select  the  coast- 
route  which  we  are  about  to  describe,  or  take  the  train  via,  Catania 
(E.  29)  and  the  steamer  which  leaves  Porto  Empedocle  once  weekly  (Sat. 
afternoon ;  see  p.  293) ;  embarcation  or  landing  1  fr.  —  The  coast-route 
requires  4  days.  1st  Day:  Palma,  13  M.  (or  Licata,  24  M.);  2nd:  Ride  to 
Licata  (11  M.),  and  thence  by  railway  to  Terranova,  22'/2  M.  (Vittoria  17  M. 
farther);  3rd:  Modica,  43  M.  (or  26  M.  from  Vittoria);  4th:  Visit  the 
Val  d'Ispica,  and  proceed  by  railway  from  Spaccaforno  to  Syracuse,  331/2  M. 
—  This  tour  is  on  the  whole  unattractive,  and  is  seldom  made,  so  that 
the  practical  hints  in- the  following  description  are  open  to  correction.  — 
Travellers  are  recommended  to  digress  at  the  station  of  Koto  to  (about 
16  M.)  Palazzolo  and  to  proceed  thence  to  (27  M.)  Syracuse. 

The  road  from  Girgenti  (diligence  daily  at  5a. m.)to  Palma  crosses 
the  Fiume  di  S.  Biagio,  and  traverses  the  coast- plain,  the  vege- 
tation of  which  is  noteworthy  for  the  large  growth  of  dwarf-palms 
(Chamserops  humilis).  On  the  other  side  of  the  Naro  the  road 
ascends  to  the  table-land,  where,  on  a  height  (1215  ft.)  to  the  left, 
is  situated  Favara  (17,000  inhab.),  with  a  picturesque  chateau  of 
the  Chiaramonte  of  the  14th  century.  On  the  summit  of  a  hill 
(1940  ft.)  farther  to  the  left  rises  Naro  (11,000  inhab.),  also  pos- 
sessing a  castle  of  the  Chiaramonte  family.  On  the  S.W.  side  of  the 
town  are  several  small  catacombs  of  Christian  origin.  Consigliere 
Riolo  possesses  a  small  collection  of  Greek  and  Roman  antiquities. 

13M.  Palma  di  Montechiaro  (poor  Inn),  an  unattractive  town 
with  15,000  inhab.,  where  a  halt  is  seldom  made  unless  for  the  night. 

We  descend  through  a  beautiful  valley  with  gigantic  almond-trees 
(with  the  largest  almonds  in  Sicily),  skirting  the  coast,  to  Licata,  on 
the  Fiume  Salso,  the  ancient  Himera  Meridionalis. 

24M.  Licata  {Alb.  Imera;  Alb.  Ventrale;  La  Bella  Sicilia; 
Brit.  andAmer.  vice-consuls),  with  18,000  inhab.,  occupies  the  site 
of  the  town  which,  after  the  destruction  of  Gela  by  the  Mamertines 
about  280 ,  the  Tyrant  Phintias  of  Acragas  erected  and  named  after 
himself.  It  lies  at  the  base  of  the  hill  of  Poggio  di  S.  Angelo,  the 
Greek  Ex-vo^os. 

The  place  was  an  ancient  Phoenician-Carthaginian  fortification,  garri- 
soned by  the  Carthaginians  during  their  war  with  Agathocles  in  311, 
whilst  the  latter  was  posted  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Here  in 
256  Regulus,  before  his  expedition  to  Africa,  vanquished  the  Carthaginian 
fleet  in  one  of  the  greatest  naval  battles  on  record,  in  which  not  fewer 
than  300,000  men  were  engaged.  Carthalo,  favoured  by  a  storm,  destroyed 
a  large  fleet  of  Roman  transports  on  this  coast  in  249. 

Licata  (Alicata),  the  chief  trading  town  on  the  S.  coast  of 
Sicily,  exports  sulphur  extensively.  —  Railway  from  Licata  to 
Canicatti,  see  p.  299. 

From  Licata  to  Terranova,  221/2  M.,  railway  in  iy4  hr.  (two 
trains  daily).  As  far  as  (7  M.)  Falconara,  a  modern  residence  of 
Baron  Bordonaro,  wheat-fields  are  traversed.  15  M.  Butera;  on  the 
mountain-slope  to  the  left  lies  the  small  town  of  Butera  (1320  ft.), 
which  was  held  by  the  Saracens  from  853  to  1089.   The  Prince   of 


304     Route  30.  TERRANOVA.  From  Girgenti 

Butera  was  the  chief  of  the  Sicilian  grandees.  The  sterileplain  through 
which  we  pass  is  the  Campi  Qeloi  of  Virgil. 

221/2  M.  Terranova.  —  Inns.  Albergo  Fenice,  well  spoken  of; 
Albekgo  Gela  ;  Casa  Mobigliata  kept  by  Luigi  La  Mantia,  Strada  Marina, 
near  the  Piazza  del  Duomo.  —  Trattoria  Trinacria,  well  spoken  of.  — 
British  Vice-constil. 

Terranova,  a  seaport  with  17,000  inhab.,  founded  by  the  Emp. 
Frederick  II.  ,  and  situated  on  a  hill,  is  intersected  by  the  long 
Corso  from  W.  to  E.  It  contains  little  to  interest  the  traveller. 
Sign.  Carlo  Navarra  possesses  a  collection  of  fine  ancient  vases  found 
in  the  neighbourhood,  to  which  he  kindly  admits  visitors.  The  height 
to  the  W.,  on  the  left  of  the  road  to  Licata  (Capo  Soprano),  was  the 
ancient  Necropolis,  where  numerous  vases  have  been  found. 

In  and  near  Terranova  are  the  remains  of  Gela ,  where  the 
dramatist  ^Eschylus  died,  B.C.  456. 

Gela,  founded  in  689  by  a  Dorian  colony  under  Antiphemus  of  Rhodes 
and  Entimus  of  Crete,  so  rapidly  attained  to  prosperity  that  in  582  it  was 
itself  in  a  position  to  send  forth  a  colony  to  found  Acragas.  After  a 
period  of  aristocratic  government,  Hippocrates  obtained  the  supreme 
power.  Under  his  rule  Gela  rose  to  the  zenith  of  its  prosperity  (498- 
491).  His  successor  Gelon  transferred  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
Deinomenides  to  Syracuse,  carrying  with  him  one-half  of  the  population 
of  Gela.  The  remainder  he  left  under  the  rule  of  his  brother  Hiero. 
In  405  Gela  was  captured  and  destroyed  by  the  Carthaginians  under  Ha- 
milcar.  The  description  given  by  Diodorus  (xiii.)  proves  that  the  town 
lay  to  the  E.  of  the  river  Gela,  on  the  same  site  as  the  modern  Terranova. 
The  remains  of  a  Doric  Temple  are  still  standing  about  '/a  M.  to  the  E.  of 
the  town  (Piazza  del  Molino  a  Vento) ;  and  the  river  is  300  paces  beyond 
them.  This  is  popularly  supposed  to  have  been  the  temple  of  Apollo, 
whose  celebrated  statue  was  sent  by  Hamilcar  to  Tyre,  where  it  was  found 
by  Alexander  the  Great.  Timoleon  re-erected  the  town  and  peopled  it 
with  colonists.  Agathocles  subsequently  caused  5000  of  the  inhabitants 
to  be  put  to  the  sword ,  and  the  Mamertines  destroyed  the  town  about 
B.C.  282.     Since  that  period  it  has  disappeared  from  the  pages  of  history. 

Between  Terranova  (diligence  at  5  a.m.)  and  (43  M.)  Vittoria  is 
a  good  and  much-used  carriage  road,  which  crosses  the  rivers  Oela 
and  Durillo.  —  17  M.  Vittoria  (Albergo  Centrale  Vittoria,  fair),  a 
town  with  about  20,000  inhabitants. 

The  archaeologist  is  recommended  to  take  the  route  from  Vittoria  to 
Modica  via,  Scoglitti  (Brit,  vice-consul) ,  the  port  of  Vittoria,  passing  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Camarina  (19  M.).  Camarina  was  founded  by  Syracuse  in 
599,  and  destroyed  in  553  for  attempting  to  assert  its  independence,  but  was 
re-erected  by  Hippocrates  of  Gela  in  492  after  the  battle  of  the  Helorus 
(Tellaro  or  Abisso).  Gelon  again  depopulated  the  town  in  4S4  and  transplanted 
its  inhabitants  to  Syracuse,  but  it  was  colonised  a  second  time  by  Gela  in 
461.  In  405  Dionysius  on  his  retreat  compelled  the  inhabitants  to  follow  him, 
and  the  town  was  destroyed  by  the  Carthaginians.  In  339  it  was  re-colonised 
by  Timoleon,  but  soon  afterwards  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Romans.  In  A.D. 
853  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by  Abbas-ibn-Fahdl.  Camarina  was  about 
5  M.  in  circumference,  and  lay  to  the  E.  of  the  river  Camarana  (ancient 
Hipparis),  at  the  point  where  the  chapel  of  the  Madonna  di  Camarana 
now  stands  on  a  sandhill,  100  ft.  in  height. 

From  Scoglitti  we  may  take  the  steamer  mentioned  at  p  276  to  Syra- 
cuse; or  proceed  via  (5'/2  M.)  S.  Croce  (poor  inn)  to  (11  M.)  Scicli  (p.  305), 
where  we  reach  the  railway  from  Modica  to  Syracuse. 

From  Vittoria  to  Modica  diligence  daily,  except  Sundays  fare 
5  fr.  40  c.  (carriage  17-20  fr.). 


to  Syracuse.  MODICA.  30.  Route.     305 

2OV2  M.  C6miso,  a  country-town  with  18,000  inhabitants.  The 
famous  fountain  of  Diana,  the  water  of  which  refused  to  mingle 
with  wine  when  drawn  by  women  of  impure  character,  was  situated 
here.  Beyond  Comiso  the  road  ascends ,  affording  a  fine  view  of 
Mt.  yEtna,  the  coast-plain,  and  the  sea.  It  then  traverses  a  plateau, 
sloping  towards  the  E.  and  intersected  by  several  deep  and  romantic 
ravines.    Descending  to  the  valley,  we  perceive  on  the  left  — 

33l/2  M.  Ragusa,  a  country-town  with  31,000  inhab. ,  most 
romantically  situated,  probably  the  ancient  Hybla  Heraea.  It  con- 
sists of  Ragusa  Superiore  and  Inferiore,  each  possessing  its  own 
administration,  post-office,  etc. ;  the  latter  contains  the  bestLocanda. 
The  whole  of  the  environs  belong  to  Baron  Arezzo  di  Donnafugata, 
who  possesses  a  cotton-factory  here.  The  neighbouring  rocks  contain 
numerous  grottoes.  Count  Bernardo  Cabrera  (d.  1423),  an  adventurer 
who  boldly  attempted  to  possess  himself  of  the  crown  of  Sicily, 
is  interred  in  the  church  of  the  Capuchins. 

43  M.  Modica  (*Locanda  Bella  Italia,  with  trattoria,  R.  li/^fr.  ; 
Locanda  of  Maestro  Oiorgio,  near  the  Sotto-Prefettura ;  Locanda 
Nuova,  etc.),  with  41,300  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  ancient 
county  of  that  name,  lies  in  a  rocky  valley,  consisting  of  two 
ravines  which  unite  in  the  town.  The  height  between  the  val- 
leys affords  a  survey  of  the  three  arms  of  the  town. 

From  Modica  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  interesting  and  pictur- 
esque *Val  or  Cava  d'Ispica,  a  rocky  ravine,  in  the  limestone  rock 
(6-8 M. ;  very  rough  road;  guide  advisable).  The  road  to  Spaccaforno 
is  quitted  beyond  the  road  which  descends  to  Scicli,  and  we  proceed 
to  the  left  to  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  at  the  S.E.  exit  from 
which  lies  Spaccaforno. 

Sicily  contains  an  extraordinarily  large  number  of  rock -tombs,  often 
wrongly  named  Ddieri.  Tombs  of  this  kind  have  been  found  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  island  at  Caltabelotta,  Siculiana,  and  Raffadale,  and  on 
the  S.E.  around  Monte  Lauro;  also  to  the  N.  of  Syracuse  as  far  as  a 
point  beyond  Cape  S.  Croce,  and  at  Maletto  and  Bronte  to  the  W.  of 
jEtna.  They  may  perhaps  be  attributed  to  the  Sicanians.  The  grottoes 
of  the  Val  cTIspica  are  the  most  numerous  and  present  the  greatest  variety. 
Some  of  them  were  used  as  habitations  at  a  later  date.  They  either  con- 
sist of  different  stories,  connected  in  the  interior  by  circular  apertures, 
or  of  single  chambers ,  the  entrances  to  which  in  the  rock  are  almost 
invariably  at  least  the  height  of  a  man  above  the  ground.  Rings  hewn 
in  stone  which  are  seen  here  probably  served  some  purpose  of  domestic 
economy.  As  most  of  the  grottoes  still  contain  graves,  it  is  probable  that 
this  formed  the  Necropolis  of  an  ancient  town,  which  lay  upon  the  neigh- 
bouring plateau.  Others  believe  that  the  caverns  are  the  relics  of  a  very 
ancient  town  of  rock-dwellers.  Numerous  inscriptions  prove  that  they 
were  used  as  a  burial-place  by  the  Christians  in  the  4th  century.  The 
most  celebrated  of  the  grottoes  are  the  so-called  Castello  iflspica,  the 
Spelonca  Grossa,  the  Qrotta  del  Covvo,  the  Grotto,  del  Venlo,  etc. 

From  Modica  to  Syracuse,  57  M.,  railway  in  about  3'/2  "rs- 
(fares  10  fr.  40,  7  fr.  30,  4  fr.  70  c);  two  trains  daily.  —  The 
line  runs  to  the  S.W.  to  (6  M.)  Scicli  (Locanda  del  Carmine;  Loc. 
de'  Carceri),  a  town  with  12,000  inhab. ;  then  turns  towards  the 
sea,  and  beyond  (12^2  M.)  Sampieri  skirts  the  coast. 

Baedekeb.    Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  20 


306     Route  30.  NOTO.  From  Oirgenti 

I8I/2  M.  Pozzallo,  with  4100  inhab.  (steamer  to  Syracuse,  see 
p.  276).  —  The  line  now  turns  inland,  towards  the  N.E.  To  the 
right  we  enjoy  picturesque  glimpses  of  the  S.E.  extremity  of  Sicily, 
the  rugged  promontory  of  Passero  ( Pachynum) ,  with  its  islands, 
harbours  (Porto  d'  Vlisse,  Porto  Palo),  tunny-fisheries  (tonnare), 
and  the  remains  of  the  ancient  city  of  Helorus  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river,  now  called  Stampaci. 

24  M.  Spaccaforno,  a  town  of  8800  inhab.,  at  the  entrance  to 
the  Val  d'Ispica  (p.  305). 

An  excursion  may  be  made  from  Spaccaforno  by  a  carriage-road  to 
(HV2  M.)  Pachino  and  the  Capo  Passero.  Road  from  Pachino  to  Nolo, 
15  M.,  see  below. 

271/2  M.  Bosolini,  possibly  on  the  site  of  the  Syracusan  colony 
of  Casmenae,  founded  B.C.  644.  —  32  M.  S.  PaOlo. 

371/2  M.  Noto  (Vittoria,  with  a  good  trattoria ;  Aquila  cfOro,  op- 
posite the  Dominican  monastery,  to  the  right ;  Trattoria  Roncd),  a 
pleasant  and  thriving  town  with  18,300  inhab. ,  contains  handsome 
palaces  of  the  provincial  aristocracy.  The  present  town  was  founded 
in  1703,  5  M.  from  the  site  of  an  earlier  one,  which  was  destroyed 
by  an  earthquake  in  1693.  Of  the  older  Noto  the  ruins  are  still 
visible. 

About  4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Noto ,  between  the  rivers  Falconara  (Asina- 
rus)  and  Tellaro  (Helorus) ,  stands  La  Pizzuta ,  a  fragment  of  a  Greek 
column,  about  30  ft.  in  height.  It  is  said  to  be  a  remnant  of  the  monument 
erected  by  the  Syracusans  in  the  bed  of  the  Asinarus  after  the  sanguinary 
defeat  of  the  Athenians  under  Nicias  (Sept.,  413). 

Beyond  Noto  the  train  passes  ^41]/2  M.)  Avola  (13,000  inhab.), 
where  almond-trees  and  the  sugar-cane  flourish,  approaches  the 
coast,  and  beyond  (47  M.)  Cassibile  crosses  the  river  Cassibile  (an- 
cient Cacyparis),  on  the  banks  of  which  Demosthenes  and  6000 
Athenians  had  to  surrender  in  413.  Thence  through  the  coast-plain 
via  (52  M.)  8.  Teresa  Longarini  to  — 

57  M.  Syracuse,  see  p.  350. 


About  19  M.  to  the  N.  of  Modica,  as  far  to  the  N."W.  of  Noto, 
and  27  M.  to  the  W.  of  Syracuse ,  and  connected  with  all  three 
by  high-roads,  lies  — ■ 

Falazzolo  Acreide.  —  Albekgo  d'Italia,  Via  Garibaldi  60,  with 
trattoria,  small  but  clean;  Locanda  Centralis,  kept  by  the  post-master, 
larger  but  not  so  comfortable.  —  The  Guardia  dell'  Antichila  lives  at  the 
W.  end  of  the  town. 

Palazzolo  Acreide,  the  Acrae  of  the  Greeks  (Arabic  el-Akrdt, 
afterwards  Placeolum,  the  Balensul  of  Edrisi),  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  towns  of  Sicily.  It  has  11,000  inhabitants.  Acrs 
was  founded  by  the  Syracusans  in  B.C.  664,  and  formed  part  of 
their  territory  until  Syracuse  itself  was  conquered  by  Marcellus. 
The  town  apparently  escaped  destruction  down  to  the  time  of  the 
Saracenic  wars. 

The  Acropolis  and  the  older  part  of  the  town  lay  on  the  hill 
which  rises  above  the  modern  town,  and  were  accessible  from  the 


to  Syracuse.  PALAZZOLO  ACREIDE.        30.  Route.     307 

B.  only.  The  top  affords  a  fine  view  in  every  direction.  The  ap- 
proach from  the  E.  was  protected  by  latomiae.  Tombs  of  all  periods 
have  been  discovered  here,  some  being  of  Greek  origin  with  reliefs, 
others  of  the  early  Christian  period.  Several  slabs  of  stone,  with 
Greek  inscriptions,  have  recently  been  excavated.  We  may  also  vi&it 
the  so-called  Tempio  Ferale  (key  to  be  brought  from  the  town),  some 
water-conduits,  and  a  small  Theatre,  looking  to  the  N.,  whence  the 
small  town  of  Buscemi  is  visible  on  a  hill  above  a  deep  ravine.  The 
theatre  is  of  late  Greek  origin,  and  contains  twelve  tiers  of  seats  for 
600  spectators.  Adjacent  to  it  is  the  Odeon,  or,  according  to  others, 
a  bath-establishment.  To  the  S.  of  the  Acropolis  rises  the  Monte 
Pineta,  with  numerous  mortuary  chambers  (p.  305).  —  In  the  Con- 
trada  del  Santicelli,  a  valley  1 1/%  M.  to  the  S.  of  Pineta,  are  the  curious 
bas-reliefs,  unfortunately  mutilated,  of  the  'Santoni'.  They  appear 
to  have  pertained  to  a  burial-place,  and  on  most  of  them  the  figure 
of  a  goddess  (supposed  to  be  Cybele)  and  beside  her  Hermes  may  be 
distinguished.  Not  far  from  this  spot  is  an  extensive  burial-ground, 
the  Acrocoro  della  Torre ,  where  some  hundreds  of  sarcophagi  have 
been  opened.  Many  of  them  contained  well-preserved  skulls.  From 
E.  to  W.  the  skeletons  of  women  were  found  to  have  been  interred, 
from  N.  to  S.  those  of  men.  —  The  collection  of  ancient  vases,  etc., 
of  Baron  Judica  (Palazzo  Judica ;  previous  application  desirable), 
who  made  the  excavations  on  the  Acropolis,  is  in  a  deplorably 
neglected  condition,  and,  like  that  of  the  Cure  Bonelli,  is  interesting 
to  the  scientific  only. 

From  Palazzolo  to  Syracuse,  27  M.,  diligence  every  morning,  in 
about  6  hrs.  ,  via,  Floridia.  (Another  good  road  leads  via  Canicat- 
tini.)  A  little  beyond  Monte  Grosse,  the  first  post-station,  Syracuse 
becomes  visible  in  the  distance.  The  towns  to  the  left  are  Cassaro 
and  Ferla.  Farther  to  the  N.  is  Sortino,  on  an  eminence.  The 
road  leads  through  the  small  town  of  S.  Paolo,  and  then  through 
Floridia,  a  town  with  9000  inhab.,  in  the  midst  of  corn-fields, 
vineyards,  and  olive-groves.  Floridia  is  about  7l/%  M.  from  Syracuse. 
On  a  hill  to  the  left,  about  halfway ,  is  the  village  of  Belvedere 
(p.  360).  —  Syracuse,  see  p.  350. 

Near  Floridia  is  the  Cava  di  Spampinato  (or  Culatre.Uo),  a  highly  ro- 
mantic gorge ,  through  which  the  Athenians  forced  their  way  on  their 
retreat  to  the  'Akraion  Lepas'  (Acraean  Rock)  in  B.  C.  413.  At  the  rock, 
however,  which  was  occupied  by  the  Syracusans,  they  were  repulsed 
(comp.  p.  353).  A  visit  to  the  pass  takes  5  hrs.  (guide  necessary;  don- 
keys at  Floridia). 

31.  From  Palermo  to  Messina  by  the  Coast. 

About  175  31.  Railway  from  Palermo  to  Cefalii,  42'/2  M.,  in  about 
3hrs.  (change  carriages  at  Termini),  and  from  Oliveri  to  Messina,  38  M  ,  in 
2l/i  hrs.  (on  both  lines  two  trains  daily,  morning  and  evening).  From 
Cefalii  to  Oliveri  Diligence  (Vettura  Corriera)  daily  in  about  20  hrs.  The 
hours  of  departure  vary,  being  sometimes  in  the  morning  and  sometimes  in 
the  evening.  The  longest  halt  on  the  way  is  not  half-an-hour.  The  stage 
from  Cefalii   to  Oaslel  Tusa  takes  3'/4  hrs.;  from  Castel  Tusa  to  5.  Stefano 

20* 


308     Route  31.  HIMERA.  From  Palermo 

2  hrs.  35  min.  (in  the  reverse  direction  1  hr.  10  min.);  from  S.  Stefano 
to  S.  Agata  3%  hrs.;  from  S.  Agata  to  Gioiosa  4'A  hrs.  (in  the  reverse 
direction  3  hr.  55  min.) :  from  Gioiosa  to  Palti  1  hr.  50  min.  (reverse,  1  hr. 
20  min.);  from  Patti  to  Oliveri  abont  I1/2  hr.  —  This  route  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  in  Sicily,  but  travelling  so  far  by  diligence  is  fatiguing. 

Steamers  between  Palermo  and  Messina  three  times  a  week:  Societti 
Florio-Rubatlino  twice  direct  in  13  hrs.  (fares  32  fr.  60  or  23  fr.  60  c, 
incl.  provisions),  starting  from  Palermo  on  Mon.  and  Wed.  at  5  p.m.,  and 
arriving  at  Messina  on  Tues.  and  Thurs.  at  6  a.m.  (from  Messina  on  Mon. 
6  p.m.  and  Sat.  5  p.m.,  arrival  at  Palermo  on  Tues.  and  Sun.  at  6  a.m.); 
and  once  indirectly,  leaving  Palermo  on  Frid.  at  6  a.m.,  leaving  Cefalii 
at  10.30,  S.  Stefano  at  1  p.m.,  S.  Agata  at  3,  Capo  d'Orlando  at  5,  and  Patti 
at  7.30,  and  reaching  Milazzo  at  9.30 ;  leaving  Milazzo  again  on  Sat.  at  4 
a.m.,  and  reaching  Messina  at  7.20  a.m.  (From  Messina  on  Wed.  at 
5  a.m.,  from  Milazzo  at  9.20,  from  Patti  at  noon,  reaching  Capo  d'Orlando 
at  1.50  p.m.,  S.  Agata  at  3.20,  S.  Stefano  at  6,  Cefalii  at  8.15,  and  Palermo 
at  midnight.) 

From  Palermo  to  Termini,  see  p.  290.  The  first  part  of  the  route 
is  bleak  and  treeless,  and,  as  its  appearance  indicates,  is  rendered 
unhealthy  by  malaria.  The  railway  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Fiume 
Torto,   and  soon  reaches  (30 M.  from  Palermo)  Buonfornello. 

The  houses  to  the  left  of  the  former  high-road  stand  on  the 
ruins  of  a  Doric  temple  which  has  not  yet  been  excavated.  On 
the  height  to  the  right  lay  Himera,  the  westernmost  town  of  the 
Greeks  on  the  N.  coast  of  Sicily ,  the  birthplace  (about  630)  of 
Stesichorus ,  originally  called  Tisias ,  the  perfecter  of  the  Greek 
chorus,  who  is  said  to  have  protected  his  native  town  against  the 
tyranny  of  Phalaris.  If  we  ascend  the  abrupt  hill,  overgrown  with 
sumach,  we  reach  a  table-land  which  gradually  slopes  downward 
from  the  small  town  of  La  Signora.  To  the  E.  flows  the  Himera 
Septentrionalis,  or  Fiume  Grande;  on  the  W.  a  small  valley,  in  which 
tombs  have  been  discovered,  separates  the  town  from  the  plateau. 
To  the  N.  the  hills  descend  precipitously  to  the  plain  of  the  coast; 
on  this  side  the  town  was  defended  by  massive  walls. 

Himera  was  founded  by  Zanclseans  in  648.  One  of  the  greatest  battles 
ever  fought  by  the  Greeks  took  place  on  behalf  of  the  citizens  in  480,  when 
Gelon  and  Theron  surprised  Hamilcar,  the  Carthaginian,  while  he  was 
besieging  the  town,  and  annihilated  his  army.  He  himself  is  said  to 
have  sought  a  voluntary  death  in  the  sacrificial  fire,  in  order  to  appease 
the  wrath  of  the  gods.  The  battle  was  probably  earlier  than  that  of  Sala- 
mis,  though  Greek  historians  have  stated  that  both  were  fought  on  the 
same  day.  In  409  Hannibal ,  son  of  Gisgon  and  grandson  of  Hamilcar, 
captured  the  town  and  razed  it  to  the  ground ,  after  most  of  the  in- 
habitants had  abandoned  it  by  night,  and  since  that  period  no  attempt 
has  been  made  to  re-erect  it. 

The  Fiume  Grande,  with  the  Fiume  Salso  (p.  299),  bisects  the 
island,  and  has  frequently  formed  a  political  frontier  (under  the 
Romans  and  under  Frederick  II.).  Beyond  the  Fiume  Grande 
the  railway  traverses  a  malarious  district.  To  the  right  are  obtained 
beautiful  glimpses  of  the  fissured  valleys  of  the  Madonia  Mts. 
34  M.  Campofelice;  opposite  is  Roccella.  Farther  up  in  the  valley 
traversed  by  the  Fiume  lies  Collesano,  a  town  which  possesses 
remnants  of  walls  of  an  unknown  period.     Above  the  mountains 


to  Messina.  CEFALU.  31.  Route.    309 

enclosing  the  valley  tower  the  Monte  S.  Salvatore  (6265ft.)  and 
the  Pizzo  Antenna  (6480  ft.),  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Madonian 
Mountains.  37  J/2  M.  Lascari.  On  the  height  to  the  right  is  Gratteri; 
then  the  Gibilmanna,  i.e.  the  'manna-mountain'  (3590  ft.).  The 
last  part  of  the  railway  leads  through  a  beautiful,  cultivated  district, 
in  which  considerable  quantities  of  manna  are  obtained  from  the 
exudations  of  the  manna-tree  (Fraxinus  ornus) 

42y2  M.  Cefalu;  [Albergo  Centrale,  Italia,  both  with  trattoria 
and  well  spoken  of;  the  latter,  in  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  is  plain; 
Luigi  PinteTero  is  a  good  guide),  the  ancient  Cephaloedium,  the 
present  terminus  of  the  railway,  a  thriving  but  dirty  town,  in- 
fested by  beggars,  with  14,200  inhab.,  who  are  engaged  in  trading, 
seafaring,  and  the  sardine  fishery.  It  lies  at  the  base  of  a  barren 
and  precipitous  promontory  on  which  the  ancient  town  stood.  The 
limestone  rock,  composed  almost  entirely  of  fossils,  which  towers 
above  the  town,  bears  the  fragments  of  a  mediaeval  Castle  and  the 
remains  of  a  polygonal  structure  (closed;  custodians's  house  at  the 
end  of  the  Salita  dei  Saraceni).  To  the  latter  a  vault  was  added 
during  the  Roman  period,  and  it  was  afterwards  converted  into  a 
Christian  place  of  worship.  The  summit,  on  which  there  are  remains 
of  a  Norman  castle ,  commands  a  magnificent  survey  of  the  N.  coast 
and  the  lofty  mountains  as  far  as  Palermo. 

Cephaloedium  is  mentioned  in  history  for  the  first  time  in  397  in 
connection  with  the  wars  between  Dionysius  I.  and  Carthage,  and  oc- 
casionally during  the  Roman  period.  In  837  the  Arabs  besieged  it  un- 
successfully, but  captured  it  in  858.  In  1129  when  King  Roger  was  returning 
from  Naples,  and  his  vessel  was  in  danger  of  shipwreck,  he  is  said  to 
have  vowed  to  erect  a  church  to  Christ  and  the  Apostles  on  the  spot 
where  he  should  be  permitted  to  land.  The  vessel  was  driven  ashore  at 
Cefalu,  and  he  accordingly  began  to  build  a  handsome  cathedral  here. 
The  charter  of  foundation,  dating  from  1145 ,  and  still  preserved  in  the 
episcopal  archives,  contains,  however,  no  allusion  to  the  above  story. 

The  *Cathbdeal,  a  noble  monument  of  Norman  architecture, 
lies  to  the  W.  at  the  foot  of  the  promontory,  and  around  it  the 
modern  town  has  sprung  up.  The  facade  rests  upon  gigantic  blocks 
of  hewn  stone,  which  probably  formed  part  of  an  earlier  building. 
Two  imposing  towers  of  four  stories,  connected  by  a  colonnade, 
flank  the  facade ,  recalling  the  huge  towers  of  St.  Etienne  at  Caen 
erected  by  William  the  Conqueror.  The  walls  of  the  colonnade  were 
covered  with  mosaics,  now  destroyed,  in  memory  of  King  Roger 
and  of  his  successors  who  continued  the  building.  The  W.  entrance 
is  coeval  with  the  foundation.  The  portal  is  of  unique  construction. 
The  apses  are  decorated  externally,  but  the  outside  is  otherwise  plain. 

The  church,  built  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  possesses  a  nave,  two 
aisles,  and  three  apses.  Nave  double  the  width  of  the  aisles.  Length  243, 
width  92  ft.  The  pointed  vaulting  of  the  nave  and  aisles  is  supported  by 
fifteen  columns  of  granite  and  one  of  cipollino.  The  "'Mosaics  in  the 
tribune  are  the  most  ancient  and  perfect  in  Sicily,  and  most  resemble  those 
preserved  in  the  monasteries  on  Mt.  Athos.  The  beautifully  executed  figure 
of  the  Saviour  was  completed  in  1148.  A  number  of  other  figures,  Mary 
with  four  archangels,  prophets  and  saints,  appear  from  their  selection  to 
have  been  the  work  of  Greek  artists.    In  the  transepts  once  stood  two  of 


310    Route  31.  MISTRETTA.  From  Palermo 

the  sarcophagi  of  porphyry  which  are  now  in  the  cathedral  of  Palermo, 
and  contain  the  relics  of  the  emperors  Henry  VI.  and  Frederick  II. 

The  fine  *  Cloisters  adjoining  the  church  resemble  those  at  Monreale 
hut  are  not  so  well  preserved. 

The  heirs  of  the  late  Baron  Mandralisca  possess  a  small  col- 
lection of  antiquities  here,  including  almost  all  the  ohjects  of  in- 
terest found  in  the  island  of  Lipari  (p.   322). 

The  high  road  leads  from  Cefalu  to  (11  M.J  Finale,  on  the 
Fiume  di  Pollina,  the  ancient  Monalus.  The  loftily  situated  little 
town  of  Pollina,  3  M.  inland,  is  supposed  to  he  the  ancient  Apol- 
lonia ,   which  Timoleon  delivered  from  its  tyrant  Leptines. 

171/2  M.  Castel  di  Tusa.  Near  it,  on  an  eminence  to  the  E., 
lay  Halaesa  or  Alaesa,  founded  in  403  by  the  tyrant  Archonides 
of  Herhita.  The  town  was  an  important  place  under  the  Romans; 
its  ruins  are  2  M.  in  circumference.  It  is  skirted  by  the  Alesus, 
now  Fiume  di  Pettineo.  The  road  crosses  this  river,  and  then 
the  Fiume  Eeitano,  in  the  valley  of  which,  9  M.  inland,  lies  the 
town  of  Mistretta  (12,000  inhab.),  the  ancient  Amestratus. 

3272  M.  S.  Stefano  di  Camastra,  with  5000  inhab.,  stands  on 
an  eminence  by  the  sea.  From  the  W.  side  of  the  town  there  is  a 
fine  view  of  the  environs,  the  sea,  and  the  valley  below.  Cheese 
made  from  sheep's  milk  (cacio  cavallo)  and  wool  are  the  staple 
products. 

Between  S.  Stefano  and  S.  Agata  lies  the  Bosco  di  Caronia, 
the  largest  forest  in  Sicily.  The  road  crosses  numerous  brooks, 
and  is  bordered  by  the  myrtle,  the  mastix ,  and  the  cistus-rose. 
It  passes  the  harbour  of  Caronia  (6  M.  from  S.  Stefano),  the 
Calacte  ('beautiful  shore'),  founded  by  Ducetius  in  440,  and  then 
crosses  the  Fiumara  of  S.  Fratello,  or  Furiano,  which  flows  through 
the  midst  of  a  perfect  grove  of  oleanders. 

The  town  of  S.  Fratello  (7700  inhab.) ,  41/2  M.  inland,  is  one  of  the 
Lombard  colonies  which  accompanied  Adelaide  of  Monferrat,  wife  of 
Roger  I.,  to  Sicily.  Others  established  themselves  at  Piazza,  Nicosia,  Aidone, 
Randazzo,  Sperlinga,  Capizzi,  Maniace,  etc.  The  Lombard  dialect  is  still 
spoken  at  S.  Fratello,  Piazza,  Nicosia,  and  Aidone.  Near  S.  Fratello  is 
the  grotto  of  San  Teodoro,  containing  many  fossil  bones  of  different  species 
of  mammalia. 

Farther  on  is  Acqua  Dolce,  11  M.  from  Caronia. 

52  M.  S.  Agata  del  Militello  is  a  small  town  with  a  tolerable  inn 
(Strada  dei  Medici,  No.  45).  The  road  crosses  the  beds  of  numerous 
torrents,  in  the  first  of  which,  the  Rosamarina,  bordered  by  ole- 
anders, are  the  fragments  of  a  Roman  bridge.  To  the  right  lies  S. 
Marco,  probably  the  ancient  Aluntium,  whence  it  is  also  called  S. 
Marco  di  Alunzio.  The  ruins  of  a  medieval  palace  in  the  Fiumara 
Zapulla  are  next  passed.  Between  the  mouth  of  this  torrent  and 
Capo  d'Orlando  was  fought,  4th  July,  1299,  the  great  naval  battle 
in  which  Frederick  II.  was  defeated  by  the  united  fleets  of  Catalonia 
and  Anjou  under  Roger  Loria.  On  the  height  to  the  right,  facing 
us ,   we  observe  the  small  town  of  Naso,   where  the  silk-culture  is 


to  Messina.  PATTI.  31.  Route.     311 

extensively  carried  on.  The  whole  district  resembles  a  luxuriant 
orchard.    As  soon,  however,  as  we  pass  — 

61  M.  Capo  d'Orlando,  the  extreme  rocky  point  (305  ft. J  of 
which  lies  to  the  left  of  the  road,  the  appearance  of  the  country  is 
changed,  and  the  mountains  now  rise  abruptly  from  the  sea.  Capo 
d'Orlando  is  75  M.  as  the  crow  flies  from  Palermo,  which  is  visible 
from  the  end  of  the  promontory  in  clear  weather.  The  broad 
Fiumara  of  Naso  and  the  picturesque  Fiumara  of  Brolo ,  with  the 
small  town  of  that  name,  are  next  reached;  then  Piraino.  The 
traveller  may  proceed,  direct  hence  via  Sorrentini  to  Patti,  and  thus 
considerably  shorten  his  journey.  A  high  mountain  must,  how- 
ever, be  traversed  (2610  ft.),  while  the  coast-route  via  Capo  Calava 
is  remarkably  picturesque. 

The  road  ascends  from  a  valley  to  (70^2  M.J  Giojosa  (Sicil. 
Giujusa ;  5000  inhab.  J ,  winds  at  a  great  height  above  the  sea 
round  the  abrupt  granite  promontory  of  Capo  Calava,  which  it 
penetrates  by  a  short  tunnel,  and  descends  to  the  Marina  of  Patti, 
whence  it  again  ascends  through  an  avenue  of  pepper-trees. 

76!/2  M.  Patti  (small  Locanda~),  an  episcopal  residence  with 
9400  inhab.,  and  large  monasteries,  is  unhealthy,  notwithstanding 
its  fine  situation  on  the  hill.  In  the  modernised  Cathedral  is 
interred  Adelasia,  mother  of  King  Roger,  and  widow  of  Count  Roger 
and  of  King  Baldwin  of  Jerusalem.  The  wealthiest  family  in  this 
district  is  that  of  the  barons  of  Sciacca,  who  possess  a  beautiful 
chateau  on  the  Scala,  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Patti.  To  the  same  family 
belong  the  environs  of  Tyndaris. 

The  road  crosses  a  fiumara  and  winds  up  the  slope  of  the  Monte 
Pignatara  (1210  ft.).  Capo  Tindaro,  the  promontory  to  the  left 
(920  ft),  rising  sheer  from  the  sea  and  well  worth  visiting,  consists 
of  granite,  gneiss,  and  above  these  a  stratum  of  limestone.  It  was 
once  the  site  of  Tyndaris  (road-side  inn,  closed  in  winter). 

Tyndaris,  one  of  the  latest  Greek  colonies  in  Sicily,  was  founded  in 
396  by  Dionysius  I.  with  Locrians  and  Peloponnesian  Messenians.  It  soon 
rose  to  prosperity,  at  an  early  period  became  allied  to  Timoleon,  and 
remained  faithful  to  the  Romans  during  the  Punic  wars.  It  was  therefore 
favoured  by  the  Romans,  and  attained  to  great  power  and  wealth.  During 
the  Christian  period  it  became  the  seat  of  a  bishop.  The  exact  date  of 
its  destruction  is  unknown.  Before  the  time  of  Pliny  a  small  part  of  the 
town  was  precipitated  into   the  sea  by  a  landslip. 

The  course  of  the  old  town-walls  can  still  be  traced.  Remains 
of  a  Theatre  and  two  mosaic  pavements  have  been  preserved.  The 
internal  diameter  of  the  theatre  is  212  ft.,  orchestra  77  ft.;  the 
cavea  is  divided  into  nine  cunei ,  and  contains  twenty-seven  tiers 
of  seats.  Several  Roman  statues  found  here  are  now  in  the  museum 
of  Palermo.  (Key  kept  by  the  custodian  of  the  antiquities.)  —  The 
fatigue  of  ascending  the  promontory,  on  which  theTe  is  a  telegraph 
tower,  is  amply  repaid  by  the  magnificent  view  it  affords  of  the  sea, 
Milazzo,  the  Lipari  Islands,  the  Neptunian  Mts.,  and  the  Pizzo  di 
Tripi  with  its  ruins;  then,  on  the  other  side  of  a  deep  'fiumara', 


312    Route  31.  MILAZZO.  From  Palermo 

Novara,  on  the  slope  of  the  conical  Rocca  di  Novara,  on  which 
Abacaenum  once  lay;  and  lastly  iEtna. 

Below  the  extremity  of  Capo  Tindaro  is  the  Stalactite  Grotto  of  Fata 
Donnavilla ,  popularly  supposed  to  he  haunted  hy  a  fairy  who  kidnaps 
brides  on  their  wedding-night,  and  to  be  identical  with  the  rata  (fairy) 
Morgana.  The  curious  may  reach  the  entrance  hy  being  lowered  over  the 
cliff  with  ropes. 

The  road  then  descends  to  the  bay  of  Oliveri  between  Tyndaris 
and  Milazzo ,  the  present  terminus  of  the  Railway  to  Messina 
Cp-  307). 

The  fertile  plain  through  which  the  railway  runs,  passing 
(l3/4  M.)  Falcone,  (5  M.)  Castroreale,  and  (7  M.J  Castroreale  Bagni, 
is  intersected  by  a  number  of  torrents  which  frequently  prove  very 
destructive.  The  largest  of  these  are  the  Oliveri,  Arancia,  Mazzarra, 
and  degli  Aranci,  on  which  last  are  situated  the  sulphureous  and 
chalybeate  baths  of  Termini  di  Castro  (well  fitted  up). 

10  M.  Barcellona,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Longano,  is  a  pros- 
perous town  of  21,000  inhab.  ,  with  sulphur-baths  (much  fre- 
quented from  May  to  September)  and  the  flourishing  suburb  of 
Pozzo  di  Gotto.  It  was,  perhaps,  in  this  neighbourhood  that  Hiero 
of  Syracuse  defeated  the  Mamertines  in  269  (comp.  p.  315),  but 
the  Longanus,  on  which  the  battle  took  place,  is  supposed  by  some 
authorities  to  be  a  river  to  the  E.  of  Mylae. 

The  railway  crosses  the  fiumare  Cantone,  Landro,  and  8.  Lucia, 
and  passes  through  the  vast  vineyards  of  the  Neapolitan  ex-minister 
Cassisi.    Emp.  Frederick  II.  possessed  a  large  gamepark  here. 

15'/2  M.  Milazzo  [Locanda  Villa  Nuova,  tolerable;  Albergo  $ 
Trattoria  Stella  d' Italia,  both  in  the  main  street;  Brit,  and  Amer. 
vice-consuls),  the  ancient  Mylae,  a  town  with  13,000  inhab., 
possesses  a  good  harbour.  The  pinnacles  of  the  Castle,  erected  by 
Charles  V.,  restored  in  the  17th  cent.,  and  now  a  prison,  command 
a  charming  *View  (admission  obtained  on  application  to  the  com- 
mandant). 

Mylae  was  founded  before  B.C.  716  by  colonists  from  Messana-Zancle, 
and  remained  subject  to  the  Messenians,  until  conquered  by  the  Athe- 
nians in  427.  In  394  the  citizens  of  Naxos  and  Catania,  who  had  been 
banished  by  Dinnysius,  occupied  Jlylse  for  a  short  time,  but  were  soon 
expelled  by  the  Messenians.  Here  in  260Duilius  gained  for  the  Romans  their 
first  naval  victory,  having  by  means  of  his  boarding-bridges  assimilated 
the  naval  battle  to  a  conflict  on  land.  No  ancient  remains  have  been  dis- 
covered here,  as  in  the  middle  ages  Milazzo  was  frequently  altered  and 
repeatedly  besieged.  The  castle  sustained  sieges  from  the  Due  de  Vivonne 
in  1675  and  during  the  Spanish  war  of  succession.  On  20th  July,  1860, 
Garibaldi  drove  the  Neapolitan  general  Bosco  back  into  the  castle,  and 
compelled  him  to  capitulate  on  condition  of  being  allowed  a  free  retreat. 

A  drive  on  the  well-cultivated  peninsula  to  the  Capo  di  Milazzo 
(about  4'/2  M.  from  the  town;  carr.  4  fr.),  affording  beautiful 
glimpses  through  the  foliage,  of  the  sea  on  both  sides,  is  re- 
commended. The  lighthouse  commands  a  fine  view.  Extensive 
tunny -fisheries.  —  Boat  with  two  rowers  from  the  tonnara  to 
Tyndaris  in  2-2  ]/2  nrs->  10-12  fr.;  to  Capo  d'Oriando  in  4hrs.,  20  fr. 


to  Messina.  ROMETTA.  31.  Route.    313 

The  line  traverses  the  plain  of  the  coast  via,  (18  M.)  S.  Filippo 
Archi  and  (19  M.)  8.  Lucia  to  (22'^  M.)  Venetico - Spadafora. 
Venetico  lies  to  the  right,  Spadafora  on  the  coast,  to  the  left.  In 
the  bay  to  the  left  the  fleet  of  Sextus  Pompeius  was  annihilated  by 
Agrippa.  On  the  heights  to  the  right  are  S.  Pier  Niceto  and  Mon- 
forte  S.  Oiorgio.  24y2  M.  Rometta,  the  station  for  the  small  town 
of  that  name ,  situated  to  the  right  among  the  mountains,  on  a 
summit  surrounded  by  precipitous  cliffs,  where  the  Christians  main- 
tained themselves  down  to  965.  Beyond  the  Saponara  the  train 
reaches  (26  M.)  Saponara-  Bauso ;  the  villages  of  these  names 
are  situated  to  the  right  and  left.  The  line  now  turns  to  the  Tight 
and  ascends  the  Gullo  valley  to  (28i/2  M.)  Gesso;  the  small  town, 
where  the  Saracens  remained  until  a  late  period,  lies  on  a  hill  to 
the  left.  It  then  penetrates  the  Neptunian  Mts.  by  a  long  tunnel, 
and  descends  in  a  wide  curve  to  the  right  to  (38  M.)  Messina. 

From  Gesso  to  Messina  across  the  hills,  either  on  foot  or  in  an  open 
carriage  (about  2l/2hrs.).  If  time  permit  this  is  far  preferable  to  the  rail- 
way. The  luxuriant  fertility  of  the  fields  soon  diminishes,  and  we  reach 
the  zone  of  the  heath  and  grass  which  clothe  the  precipitous  slopes  of  the 
Neptunian  Mts.  Beautiful  retrospect.  The  summit  of  the  pass,  the  so- 
called  *  Telegrafo,  or  Colli  di  San  Rizzo  (1720  ft.),  commands  an  extensive 
view  (still  finer  from  the  ruined  tower,  10  min.  above) :  at  our  feet  lies 
the  strait  of  Messina,  to  the  left  is  the  Faro,  opposite  to  it  Scilla  in  Ca- 
labria, then  (on  a  projecting  angle)  S.  Giovanni,  and  farther  to  the  right 
Reggio ;  the  forests  of  the  lofty  Aspromonte  occupy  the  extremity  of  the 
Calabrian  peninsula;  and  in  front  of  the  spectator  extends  the  sickle 
(Zancle)  shaped  harbour  of  Messina.  The  road  descends  to  a  profound  and 
sinuous    ravine.     (The  Abbadiazza,  see  p.  321.) 

32.    Messina. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  Passengers  are  landed  in  small  boats  (tariff  1  fr.,  with 
or  without  luggage)  at  the  Scala  di  Marmo,  in  front  of  the  Palazzo 
Municipale  (PI.  F,  3).  Luggage  is  slightly  scrutinised  at  the  dogana  by 
officers  of  the  municipal  customs.  Porter  for  ordinary  luggage  from  the 
Dogana  to  a  hotel,  1  fr.  — •  One-horse  carriage  from  the  railway-station  to 
the  town  T&  c,  with  luggage  1  fr. 

Hotels.  "Alb.  Trinacria,  Strada  Garibaldi  102,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3-5,  B.  1, 
dej.  3,  D.  il/i,  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  8-12,  omn.  3/t  fr.,  bargain  advisable, 
English  spoken;  "Vittoria  (PI.  a;  F,  3,  4),  Strada  Garibaldi  66,  near  the 
harbour,  R.  from  21/2,  L.  &  A.  IV2,  B.  IV2,  D.  5,  pens.  12,  omn.  1  fr. ; 
Hotel  Bellevue,  Via  Garibaldi  146,  opposite  the  theatre  (PI.  20;  E,  3), 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  4-5,  B.  1,  dej.  2>/2,  D.  4  (both  incl.  wine),  pens.  10,  omn. 
1  fr. ;  —  "Albergo  di  Venezia  (PI.  b ;  E,  3),  Strada  della  Neve  7  and  11 
(with  de"pendance,  HStel  de  Geneve),  second-class,  R.  &  L.  2'/2  fr. ,  bargain 
advisable;  Alb.  &  Ristor.  Belvedere,  Via  Primo  Settembre  4,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  from  IV2  fr.,  well  spoken  of.  —  Albergo  Nuovo  Centrale,  Piazza  del 
Municipio  3,  rooms  merely,  plain. 

Restaurants.  Caffe  Palestro ,  Caffe  Duilio ,  both  in  the  Strada  Gari- 
baldi, between  the  theatre  and  the  Municipio,  also  for  ladies;  Trinacria, 
Venezia,  see  above.  —  Cafes.  Palestro,  Duilio,  see  above;  Avenire,  Peloro, 
both  in  the  Corso  Cavour,  Largo  dell1  Annunziata  (coffee  15,  'mezza  granita' 
15,  'gelato'  25  c).  The  Chalet ,  on  the  coast,  is  a  favourite  resort  in  fine 
weather  (music  thrice  a  week).  —  Beer  at  the  Birreria  Centrale,  corner 
of  the  Piavza  Municipio  and  Via  Forno  Serrato;  Birreria  Svizzera,  Via 
S.  Camillo  19,  near  the  post-office ;  bottle  of  Vienna  beer  1  fr.  —  Clubs  with 
reading,  billiard,  and  other  rooms  are  the  Casino  della  Bona  and  the  Ga- 


314     Route  32. 


MESSINA. 


Climate. 


binelto  di  Lettura,   both  in  the  Teatro  Vitt.  Emanuele  (introduction  by  a 
member  necessary). 

Omnibuses  traverse  the  town  by  the  long  streets  running  N.  and  S., 
and  also  ply  to  the  station;  fare  20  c,  half  trip  15  c. 

One  horse 

Cab  Tariff.  single    return    single    return 

Drive  in  the  town,  incl.  quav      ....        —  50  85        1  —        1.50 

To  the  station " —  70        1  —        1.50        2  - 

To  the  station  at  night 1.30        2  —        2.30        3  - 

To  the  Campo  Santo       1.—        1-60        1.50        2- 

To  the  Torre  di  Faro 5.—        6.50        6.50      10 

First  hour 1.80         — 

Each  additional  hour 1.10         — 

Steam  Tramway  from  the  Marina  to  the  Faro  (p.  322),  in  3/4  hr.  (fares 
90  or  50  c). 

Donkeys  for  hire  opposite  the  Ospedale  Civile  (PL  14),  in  the  pro- 
longation of  the  Corso  Cavour,  per  day  5,  half-day  3  fr. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  F,  3),  Via  S.  Camillo,  near  the  Palazzo 
del  Municipio  (open  8-6). 

Baths.  Sea  Baths  near  the  quay,  well  fitted  up ,  1/2  fr.  —  Mineral 
Baths  (sulphur),  Largo  del  Purgatorio  6,  first  floor,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele 
52.  —  Warm,  Vapour,  and  other  baths,  at  the  hydropathic  establishment, 
Pal.  Brunaccini,  Corso  Cavour,  managed  by  Dr.  Genovese. 

Theatre.  Teatro  Vittorio  Emanuele  (PI.  20),  subsidised  by  some  of 
the  richer  citizens,  good  performances ;  'platea'  2  fr.  70,  'posti  distinti' 
4  fr.  50  c.  —  Teatro  della  Munizione,  etc. 

Railway  to  Catania.  Syracuse,  Girgenli,  and  Palermo,  see  BR.  34,  38, 
29,  27.  —  Steamboats.  Office  of  the  Societd  Florio-Rubatlinc,  Corso  Vitt. 
Emanuele  132,  opposite  the  Sanita.  —  To  Reggio,  see  p.  322;  to  Villa  S. 
Giovanni,  p.  322. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Cammareri,  Via  Camerelle  52,  speaks  English;  Br. 
Pomara,  Via  Rovere,  speaks  French;  Dr.  Weiss,  Via  Primo  Settembre 
(German);  Dr.  Trombetta,  Dr.  Soraci.  —  Chemists.  Buffe  &  Seguenza,  Corso 
Cavour;   Camareri- Miller ,  Villa  Cardines. 

American  Consul:  Mr.  T.  Jones.  —  British  Vice -Consul:  Mr. 
George  Pignatorre. 

English  Church,  Via  Seconda  del  Gran  Priorato  11;  service  at  10.30 
a.m. ;  also  at  7.30  p.m.  in  the  British  Sailors'  Chapel,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele 
165;  chaplain,  Rev.  J.  J.  Varnier.  —  Italian  Protestant  Services  in  the  Wal- 
densian  Church  (11  &  7)  and  the  Methodist  Church,  Via  Torrente  Portalegni 
110  (11  &  6.30). 

Bookseller :  Ant.  Trimarchi  (Carlo  Clausen),  Corso  Cavour  160. 

Bankers:  Caille ,  Waller,  &  Co.,  Strada  Garibaldi  179.  —  Money- 
changers: Fratelli  Grosso,  Strada  Garibaldi  74  (also  dealers  in  old  coins, 
bronzes,  etc.). 

Photographs  and  Maps  of  Sicily  sold  by  Cella,  Via  S.  Camillo  36. 

The  Climate  of  Messina  is  healthy,  being  neither  cold  in  winter  nor 
oppressively  hot  in  summer,  but  the  constant  current  of  air  passing  through 
the  strait  renders  it  trying  to  consumptive  or  rheumatic  persons.  The 
mean  temperature  is  66°  Fahr. ;  in  spring  61°,  summer  80°,  autumn  69°. 
winter  55°.     The  freezing-point  is  rarely  reached. 

The  Fish  of  the  strait,  as  well  as  the  Mamertine  Wine  of  the  adjoining 
hills,  were   famous  in  ancient  times,  and  are  still  esteemed. 

In  fine  weather  two  days  at  least  should  be  devoted  to  Messina.  The 
town  and  environs  present  some  excellent  points  of  view  particularly 
towards  Calabria  by  evening  light,  while  the  morning  passa'ge  to  Eeggio 
affords  a  strikingly  grand  survey  of  Mt.  iEtna  and  the  other  mountains  of 
Sicily.  Steamers  plying  to  Villa  S.  Giovanni  ofTer  an  opportunity  of  a 
day's  excursion  to  Palmi  (p.  ^22),  with  the  Monte  Elia  commanding  fine 
views.  'Excursion  to  Milazzo  (an  easy  day's  journey),  see  p.  312.  The  sights 
of  the  town  itself  are  unimportant. 


"Wagner  k,  Debes  rT.eipzir 


History.  MESSINA.  32.  Route.   315 

Messina,  next  to  Palermo  the  chief  commercial  town  of  Sicily, 
with  upwards  of  80,000  inhab.,  the  seat  of  an  appeal  court,  an 
archbishop,  and  a  university,  is  situated  on  the  Faro  or  Strettodi 
Messina,  and  is  overshadowed  by  a  range  of  rugged  rocky  peaks. 
In  grandeur  of  scenery  it  vies  with  Palermo.  The  harbour,  which 
is  formed  by  a  peninsula  in  the  shape  of  a  sickle,  is  the  busiest 
in  Italy  in  point  of  steamboat  traffic,  and  is  one  of  the  best  in  the 
world.  It  is  entered  annually  by  upwards  of  4000  large  vessels, 
of  an  aggregate  burden  of  1,130,000  tons,  of  which  about  1350 
are  steamers. 

The  town  is  on  the  whole  well  built,  and  has  several  handsome 
streets.  The  animated  harbour  is  flanked  by  the  Marina,  or  Corso 
Vittorio  Emanuele.  Parallel  to  the  Marina  runs  the  Via  Qaribaldi, 
beyond  which  is  the  Corso  Cavour ;  and  the  Via  dei  Monasteri,  still 
farther  from  the  quay,  forms  a  fourth  parallel  street.  The  upper 
streets  of  the  town,  and  particularly  the  Via  Monasteri,  afford  charm- 
ing glimpses  of  the  sea  and  the  opposite  coast  of  Calabria  through 
the  cross-streets. 

Messina  has  experienced  many  vicissitudes.  It  was  founded  by 
Cumsean  pirates  and  Chalcidians  under  Perieres  and  Crataemenes  in  732 
on  the  site  of  a  Sikelian  town,  which  the  inhabitants  named  Zancle  (t.  e. 
sickle)  from  the  peculiar  form  of  the  harbour,  and  it  was  governed  by  the 
laws  of  Charondas.  Here,  as  in  other  Sicilian  towns,  the  conflicts  of  the 
people  with  their  rulers  ended  with  the  establishment  of  a  tyranny.  About 
493,  fugitives  from  Samos  and  Miletus,  by  the  advice  oi  Anaxilas  of  Rhegium, 
took  possession  of  the  defenceless  city.  Anaxilas  soon  afterwards  established 
himself  here,  and  emigrants  from  all  quarters,  chiefly  Messenians  from  the 
Peloponnesus,  settled  in  the  city  and  gave  it  the  name  of  Messana.  Anaxilas 
maintained  his  supremacy  throughout  all  the  vicissitudes  of  the  town  until 
his  death  in  477.  His  sons,  however,  retained  possession  of  the  supreme 
power  till  461  only,  when  the  original  constitution  of  the  town  was  revived. 
Messana  participated  in  the  wars  against  Ducetius,  and  subsequently  took 
the  part  of  the  Acragantines  against  Syracuse,  with  which  it  afterwards 
united  against  Leontini  and  the  Athenians.  To  the  latter,  however,  it  was 
compelled  to  surrender  in  427.  In  the  great  Athenian  and  Syracusan  war 
Messana  remained  neutral.  It  then  engaged  in  a  conflict  with  Dionysius, 
but  without  decisive  result  owing  to  the  disunion  occasioned  by  party-spirit. 
In  396  the  town  was  taken  and  entirely  destroyed  by  the  Carthaginian 
Himilco;  a  few  only  of  the  inhabitants  effected  their  escape  to  the  moun- 
tains. Dionysius  speedily  rebuilt  the  town,  whence  he  proceeded  to  conquer 
the  not  far  distant  Rhegium.  After  a  variety  of  changes  the  Carthaginians 
gained  possession  of  the  place,  but  were  expelled  by  Timoleon.  In  the 
contests  with  Agathocles  it  again  took  the  side  of  the  Carthaginians.  In 
282  the  Mamertines  ('sons  of  Mars') ,  the  mercenaries  of  Agathocles,  after 
their  liberation  by  the  Syracusans ,  treacherously  possessed  themselves 
of  the  town  and  maintained  it  against  Pyrrhus.  Siero  II.  of  Syracuse 
succeeded  in  reducing  it.  But  the  fruits  of  his  victory  on  the  Longanus 
in  270  were  reaped  by  Hannibal,  who  seized  the  castle  of  Messana. 
Against  him  the  Mamertines  called  in  the  aid  of  the  Romans,  and  thus  arose 
the  First  Punic  War.  When  it  was  invested  by  the  Syracusans  and  Car- 
thaginians, the  siege  was  raised  by  Appius  Claudius,  and  it  thenceforth 
became  a  Roman  town,  being  afterwards  regarded  with  especial  favour  by 
its  new  masters,  and  even  by  Yerres.  In  the  war  between  Octavian  and 
Sextus  Pompeius  it  was  taken  and  plundered  by  the  soldiers  of  the  former. 
Augustus  then  established  a  colony  here ,  and  Messina  continued  to  be  a 
place  of  great  importance,  although  not  exercising  so  decisive  an  influence 
on  tne  fortunes  of  Sicily  as  Syracuse  and  Lilybseum.     The  Saracens  took 


316     Route  32,  MESSINA.  Cathedral. 

the  town  in  842,  and  it  subsequently  became  the  first  Norman  conquest. 
The  Crusades,  which  did  not  leave  Sicily  unaffected,  contributed  to  the 
rapid  increase  of  the  prosperity  of  the  place.  In  1189,  indeed,  it  suffered 
from  an  attack  of  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  who  with  Philip  Augustus  wintered 
here,  but  from  that  period  also  date  the  great  privileges,  which,  down  to 
1678,  rendered  it  an  almost  independent  town  and  the  headquarters  of  the 
national  hatred  of  foreign  rule.  In  1282  it  was  in  vain  besieged  by  Charles 
of  Anjou.  The  bravery  of  its  commandant  A  laimo  and  the  courage  of  the 
Dinars  and  Chiarenza's  at  a  critical  time  saved  the  town  and  the  island. 
The  citizens  of  Messina  have  repeatedly  evinced  heroic  constancy  of  char- 
acter. Towards  the  close  of  the  15th  cent,  the  town  enjoyed  the  utmost 
prosperity,  but  its  jealousy  of  Palermo  eventually  paved  the  way  for  its 
downfall.  In  the  16th  cent,  the  Emp.  Charles  V.  showed  great  favour  to 
Messina,  and  presented  it  with  gifts  such  as  fell  to  the  lot  of  few  other 
towns,  in  recognition  of  which  a  street  was  named  and  a  statue  erected 
(p.  319)  in  honour  of  his  son  Don  John  of  Austria  on  the  return  hither  of 
the  victorious  hero  of  Lepanto  (1571)  in  his  24th  year.  But  a  quarrel 
between  the  aristocratic  families  (Merli)  and  the  democratic  party  (Mahizzi), 
stimulated  by  the  government,  which  had  long  been  jealous  of  the  privi- 
leges of  the  town,  caused  its  ruin  (1672-78).  The  Merli,  at  first  victorious, 
expelled  the  Spanish  garrison,  and  defended  themselves  heroically  against 
an  overwhelming  force.  To  save  their  city  from  capture  the  senate  sued  for 
the  aid  of  Louis  XIV.,  who  sent  an  army  and  fleet  to  conquer  the  island. 
In  this,  however,  he  was  unsuccessful,  notwithstanding  the  victory  gained 
by  Duquesne  over  the  united  Spanish  and  Dutch  fleets  under  De  Ruyter. 
In  1678  the  French  abandoned  the  place  in  an  almost  clandestine  manner, 
and  the  population  was  now  reduced  from  120,000  to  a  tenth  of  that 
number.  The  town  never  recovered  from  these  disasters,  and  was  after- 
wards kept  in  check  by  the  now  dismantled  citadel  erected  at  that  period. 
During  the  18th  cent.  Messina  was  overtaken  by  two  overwhelming  cala- 
mities —  a  fearful  plague  (1740) ,  of  which  40,000  persons  died,  and  an 
earthquake  (1783)  which  overthrew  almost  the  whole  town.  (Messina 
lies  on  the  line  of  contact  of  the  primary  and  secondary  formations,  on 
which  boundary  earthquakes  between  iEtna  and  Vesuvius  are  always  most 
violent.)  The  severe  bombardment  of  3rd-7th  Sept.,  1848,  also  caused  great 
damage,  and  in  1854  the  cholera  carried  off  no  fewer  than  16,000  victims, 
but  at  the  present  day  the  town  is  again  in  a  prosperous  condition.  The 
original  town  lay  between  the  torrents  of  Portalegni  and  Boceetta ,  but 
was  extended  under  Charles  V.  towards  the  N.  and  S.  The  suburbs  of 
S.  Leo  on  the  N.  and  Zaera  on  the  S.  are  now  united  with  the  town. 

Owing  to  the  numerous  calamities  which.  Messina  has  sustained 
at  the  hand  of  man  and  from  natural  phenomena,  it  contains  fewer 
relics  of  antiquity  than  any  other  town  in  Sicily. 

The  *Cathedral,  or  la  Matrice  (PI.  1 ;  E ,  4),  an  edifice  of  the 
Norman  period,  was  begun  in  1098,  and  completed  under  Roger  II. 
In  1254  it  was  damaged  by  a  fire  which  broke  out  during  the 
obsequies  of  Conrad  IV-  In  1559  the  spire  of  the  campanile  was 
burned  down;  in  1682  the  interior  was  modernised,  the  pointed 
arches  made  semicircular,  and  the  walls  covered  with  stucco; 
and  in  1783  the  campanile  and  the  transept  were  overthrown  by 
the  earthquake,  so  that  little  of  the  original  building  is  now  left. 
The  form  of  the  church  is  that  of  a  Latin  cross,  305  ft  in  length, 
and  across  the  transepts  145  ft.  in  width.  The  choir  with  its  two 
towers  was  entirely  rebuilt  in  1865.  The  tasteful  entrance-fa- 
cade, on  which  are  small  reliefs  with  artless  scenes  of  civic  life 
and  symbolical  representations ,  is  early- Gothic;  the  central  por- 
tal,  however,   received  a  tall  pediment  in  the  15th  century. 


Piazza  del  Duomo.         MESSINA.  32.  Route.    317 

Interior.  Adjoining  the  main  entrance  is  a  statue  of  John  the  Baptist 
ascribed  to  Qagini.  The  twenty-six  granite  columns,  with  Byzantine  capitals, 
which  support  the  roof  are  said  to  have  once  belonged  to  a  temple  of 
Neptune  near  the  Faro  (p.  322).  The  altars  of  the  twelve  chapels  with 
the  statues  of  the  Apostles  were  designed  in  1547  by  Montorsoli.  The 
marble  pulpit,  beneath  the  6th  arch  on  the  right,  is  by  Andrea  Calamech. 

The  High  Altar ,  which  is  decorated  richly,  but  in  bad  taste,  is  said 
to  have  cost  no  less  than  3,825,000  fr.  in  1628.  The  receptacle  in  the  interior 
is  believed  by  the  faithful  to  contain  the  celebrated  epistle  of  the  Madonna 
della  Lettera,  which  the  Virgin  Mary  is  said  to  have  sent  to  the  citizens 
by  St.  Paul  in  the  year  42,  and  in  honour  of  which  great  festivals  are 
still  celebrated  (3rd  June).  This,  like  several  other  documents,  has  been 
proved  to  be  a  forgery  of  the  well-known  Constantine  Lascaris  (d.  1501). 
—  The  sarcophagus  by  the  wall  of  the  choir,  to  the  right  near  the  high- 
altar,  is  sacred  to  the  memory  of  Emp.  Conrad  IV.,  whose  remains  were 
burned.  The  sarcophagus  on  the  opposite  side ,  to  the  left,  contains  the 
remains  of  Alphonso  the  Generous  (d.  1458),  and  another  those  of  Queen 
Antonia,  widow  of  Frederick  III.  of  Aragon.  The  tasteful  choir-stalls 
were  designed  by  Giorgio  Veneziano  (1540).  —  The  Mosaics  in  the  apses  date 
from  the  14th  cent.  :  to  the  right.  John  the  Evangelist,  with  King  Lewis  and 
the  Duke  of  Athens ;  in  the  centre,  Christ  with  the  Virgin  and  St.  John, 
and  Frederick  II.  of  Aragon,  his  son  Peter,  and  Archbishop  Guiodotto; 
to  the  left,   the  Madonna,  with  Queen  Eleonora  and  Queen  Elizabeth. 

In  the  Transept,  on  the  left,  are  a  Renaissance  altar  of  1530,  and  a 
figure  of  the  Eisen  Christ,  ascribed  to  Gagini;  on  the  right  is  the  inter- 
esting monument  of  the  archbishop  Guidotto  de1  Tabiati  (d.  1333) ,  by 
Gregorio  da  Siena.  —  Two  marble  slabs  in  the  Nave,  to  the  left  by  the 
organ,  enumerate  the  privileges  granted  to  the  city  by  Henry  VI.  The  ped- 
estal of  the  vessel  for  holy  water,  by  the  side-entrance  to  the  left,  bears 
a  Greek  inscription,  according  to  which  it  once  supported  a  votive  offering 
to  iEsculapius  and  Hygieia,  the  tutelary  deities  of  the  town. 

In  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  (PI.  E ,  4) ,  nearly  opposite  the 
facade  of  the  cathedral,  is  the  Fountain  of  Fra  Oiov.  Ang.  Mon- 
torsoli (PI.  13),  a  pupil  of  Michael  Angelo,  executed  in  1547-51, 
and  overladen  with  statues  and  basreliefs,  with  allegorical  figures 
of  the  Nile,  Ebro,  Tiber,  and  the  brook  Camaro  near  Messina  on  the 
margin  of  the  principal  basin. 

Immediately  to  the  right  in  the  Via  Primo  Settembre,  not  far 
from  the  cathedral,  is  the  narrow  facade  of  the  Norman  church  of 
La  Cattolica.  Farther  on  to  the  left  is  the  small  Piazza  de'  Cata- 
lani,  in  which  is  situated  SS.  Annunziata  dei  Catalani  (PI.  4; 
E,  4) ,  the  oldest  Norman  church  in  Messina  (at  present  under- 
going restoration).  Half  of  the  apse  is  still  standing  in  the  Via 
Garibaldi.  A  temple  of  Neptune,  and  afterwards  a  mosque ,  are 
said  once  to  have  occupied  the  same  site.  The  columns  in  the  in- 
terior are  antique.  —  Another  Norman  church,  S.  Maria  Alemanna, 
at  the  end  of  the  Via  Primo  Settembre,  is  now  used  as  a  storehouse. 

Opposite  the  Montorsoli  Fountain  and  the  cathedral  facade  is 
the  Via  dell'  Universita,  leading  to  the  University  (PI.  22;  E,  4), 
which  contains  a  Library  with  some  valuable  MSS.  and  a  Natural 
History  Collection. 

In  the  Via  Cardines  (PI.  E,  4,  5),  opposite  No.  231,  is  the 
church  delV  Indirizzo,  with  a  Madonna  by  Catalano  VAntico  at  the 
high-altar.  In  the  large  church  of  S.  Maddalena  (PL  9;  E,  5), 
begun  by  Carlo  Marchioni  in  1765,  a  fearful  struggle  took  place  in 


318     Route  32.  MESSINA.     Villa  Rocca  Guelfonia. 

Sept.,  1848,  between  Messinians  and  the  invading  Swiss  troops, 
—  We  now  retrace  our  steps  to  the  Ospbdale  Civico  (PI.  14; 
B,  5),  an  immense  pile  dating  from  the  close  of  the  16th  cent.;  in 
the  Delegazione  on  the  upper  floor  are  preserved  upwards  of  a  hun- 
dred Majolica  Vases  from  Urbino.  The  main  entrance  is  in  the  large 
piazza.  —  In  the  next  street  is  the  little  church  of  S.  Lucia;  in 
the  interior:  a  Madonna  with  saints  by  Riccio  (1st  altar  to  the 
left),  St.  Nicholas  by  the  same  (1st  altar  to  the  right),  and  a  Ma- 
donna by  Antonello  da  Saliba  (1516  ;  2nd  altar  to  the  right). 

The  Strada  de'  Monasteri  leads  N.  from  the  Largo  dell'  Ospe- 
dale  to  the  higher  quarters  of  the  town.  Here  are  situated  a  number 
of  convents  and  small  churches  (generally  closed  after  8  a.m.). 
Among  the  latter  are  those  of  SS.  Cosma  e  Damiano,  S.  Anna,  and 
S.  Rocco,  with  paintings  of  the  Sicilian  school. 

In  front  of  S.  Rocco  a  steep  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  S.  Gre- 
gorio  (PI.  8;  E,  3,  4),  erected  in  1542  by  Andrea  Calamech,  with 
a  baroque  facade.  From  this  church  we  command  a  charming  view 
of  the  town  and  straits  of  Messina. 

Interior  (bell  to  the  left  of  the  door).  In  the  middle  of  the  right 
transept:  Ouercino,  Madonna  and  saints  (1665),  beside  it,  Barbalonga,  SS. 
Gregory  and  Filocamo,  S.  Silvia  carried  to  the  Virgin.  In  the  middle  of 
the  left  transept:  Madonna  in  mosaic,  beside  it,  Antonio  Riccio,  St.  Bene- 
dict between  SS.  Plaeidus  and  Maurus. 

The  adjoining  ConvbntoS.  Gregoeio  contains  a  small  collection 
of  paintings,  including  works  by  the  Sicilians  Catalani  and  Scilla, 
a  Christ  at  Emmaus  by  Caravaggio,  and  a  Descent  from  the  Cross 
of  the  school  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  but  its  chief  treasures  are 
five  fine  though  sadly  damaged  works  by  Antonello  da  Messina 
(two  bishops;  an  *Enthroned  Madonna,  1473;  Angels;  and  an 
Annunciation).  Also  antiquities  and  sculptures,  including  Arabic 
and  Greek  inscriptions,  Byzantine  holy-water  vessels  and  capitals, 
the  Scylla  from  the  harbour  (17th  cent.),  and  a  Roman  sarcophagus 
with  figures  of  Dasdalus  and  Icarus.  Adm.  to  both  collections  not 
easily  obtained. 

Another  flight  of  steps  farther  up  leads  to  S.  Maria  di  Morlalto  (usu- 
ally closed),  in  which  there  are  a  Holy  Family  attributed  to  Titian  and 
a  Visitation  by  Cardillo  (about  1400). 

Farther  on  in  the  Strada  de'  Monasteri  is  the  church  of  8. 
Agostino ;  at  the  first  altar  to  the  right  is  a  statue  of  the  Madonna, 
dating  from  the  loth  cent. ;  beside  the  high-altar,  to  the  left,  Na- 
tivity, a  relief  of  1570  by  Bonanno;  above  the  high-altar,  'LaVer- 
gine  del  Buon  Consiglio',  a  picture  of  the  Madonna,  which  accord- 
ing to  the  legend  was  borne  by  angels  across  the  sea  from  Scutari 
to  Genazzano  in  the  year  1467. 

The  best  survey  of  the  town,  the  mountains  surrounding  it,  and 
the  strait  (best  towards  evening)  is  obtained  from  the  *VillaBocca 
Guelfonia  (PI.  23;  D,  E,  3),  reached  by  the  second  side-street  on 
the  left  from  this  point.  It  belongs  to  the  advocate  Sig.  Santi  De 
Coin,   who  kindly  admits  visitors  (small  fee  to  the  porter  on  leav- 


Palazzo  Municipale.  MESSINA.  32.  Route.     319 

lng).  This  spot  Is  said  to  have  been  once  occupied  by  the  castle 
of  the  Mamertines,  and  the  remains  of  the  Norman  stronghold  of 
Matagrifone  or  Rocca  Ouelfonia  are  still  to  be  seen  here. 

From  S.  Agostino  the  Via  Monte  Vergine  leads  to  the  right  to 
the  small  church  Delia  Pace  ;  in  the  sacristy,  Vinccnzo  di  Pavia, 
SS.  Cosma  &  Damiano  ;  in  another  apartment,  Antonello  da  Mes- 
sina, Madonna  del  Rosario  (1479).  —  Adjacent  is  the  imposing 
Palazzo  Qrano  (16th  cent.).  —  At  the  end  of  the  Strada  de'  Mon- 
asteri  is  8.  Maria  delta  Scala  (PI.  11 ;  E,  2,  3),  a  recently  restored 
14th  cent,  church ,  with  a  fine  Gothic  facade ;  the  side-portal  is 
adorned  with  a  relief  of  the  Madonna,  dating  from  the  16th  cent. ; 
and  the  interior  contains  a  Madonna  (to  the  left  of  the  entrance), 
attributed,  with  considerable  doubt,  to  Luca  della  Robbia. 

Beyond  the  Torrente  Boccetta  (PI.  D,  E,  2)  is  the  church  of 
S.  Francesco  d'Assisi  (PI.  6  ;  E,  2),  founded  in  1251  and  burned 
down  in  1884,  now  restored.  The  tomb  of  Angelo  Balsamo  (1501), 
beside  the  main  portal,  a  Roman  sarcophagus,  with  the  Rape  of 
Proserpine,  at  the  end  of  the  apse,  and  a  beautiful  statue  of  the 
Madonna,  by  Ant.  Oagini,  are  among  the  best  sculptures.  —  The 
neighbouring  church  of  S.  Giovanni  Decollato  contains  a  *Be- 
heading  of  John  the  Baptist,  by  Caravaggio. 

We  now  descend  the  Torrente  Boccetta  and  follow  the  Corso 
Cavour  (PI.  E,  3)  to  the  right  to  the  small  Piazza  dell'  Annunziata 
(on  the  left),  embellished  with  a  statue  of  Don  John  of  Austria  (PL 
19  ;E,  3),  erected  in  1572  (p.  316).  —S.  Oioacchino  (PI  .7;  E,  3), 
in  the  next  side-street  on  the  right,  contains  a  beautiful  wooden 
crucifix,  and  a  painting  by  Scilla,  representing  St.  Hilarion  in  the 
arms  of  Death.    In  the  sacristy  are  some  pictures  by  Tuccari. 

Farther  on  in  the  Corso  Cavour ,  to  the  right ,  is  the  church  of 
S.  Niccolo  (PI.  12 ;  E,  4,  3),  a  tasteful  building  by  Andrea  Cala- 
mech.  Above  the  high -altar,  a  Presentation  in  the  Temple  by 
Oirolamo  Alibrandi ;  in  the  left  transept,  St.  Nicholas,  by  An- 
tonello da  Messina.  —  The  next  side-street  brings  us  to  the  Ora- 
torio di  San  Francesco,  which  contains  some  interesting  paint- 
ings. Above  the  altar,  Death  of  St.  Francis,  by  Bart.  Schidone; 
on  the  left  wall,  Birth,  Baptism ,  and  Investiture  of  the  saint  by 
Rodriguez ;  on  the  right,  St.  Francis  among  the  thorns  ,  by  an  un- 
known master ;  the  saint  listening  to  the  angelic  music,  while  the 
Madonna  appears  to  him,  by  Van  der  Brack,  a  Flemish  painter  who 
died  at  Messina  in  1665.  —  At  the  corner  of  the  Corso  Cavour  is 
the  Palazzo  Brunaccini  (PI.  15;  E,  4),  believed  to  be  the  scene  of 
the  interview,  admirably  described  by  Goethe,  between  that  illus- 
trious traveller  and  the  intendant. 

In  the  Via  Garibaldi  (PI.  F,  3),  adjoining  an  open  space 
where  a  band  often  plays  on  summer  evenings,  stands  the  Palazzo 
Municipale  (PI.  16  ;  F,  3),  erected  by  Minutoli  in  1806-29.  Oppo- 
site are  the  Exchange  and  the  Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  18). 


320     Route  32.  MESSINA.  Lighthouse. 

The  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  (PI.  F,  4,  3,  2,  1),  skirting  the 
*Harbour,  with  its  brisk  steamboat  traffic,  affords  a  pleasant  walk. 
This  street  was  formerly  known  as  'LaPallazzata',  from  the  uniform 
row  of  palaces,  all  of  the  same  height,  which  line  it.  These,  begun 
before  the  earthquake  of  1783,  and  afterwards  restored,  have  only 
two  stories.  In  front  of  the  seaward  facade  of  the  Palazzo  delMuni- 
cipio  stands  a  Fountain,  designed  by  Montorsoli,  with  a  colossal 
statue  of  Neptune  (now  replaced  by  a  copy)  between  Scylla  and 
Charybdis.  —  On  the  S.  curve  of  the  harbour  is  the  Dogana  (PI. 
F,  5),  on  the  site  of  a  palace  once  occupied  by  Emp.  Frederick  II. 
and  other  monarchs. 

"We  may  now  visit  the  peninsula  on  the  E.  side  of  the  harbour. 
The  Citadel  (PI.  Gr,  4)  here  is  now  being  taken  down,  and  the  ad- 
jacent arms  of  the  sea  are  spanned  by  temporary  bridges.  Beyond  it, 
on  the  right,  is  the  Protestant  Cemetery.  We  next  come  to  the  large 
Lighthouse  {Faro  Grande ;  PI.  H,  3),  nearly  1  M.  from  the  Dogana, 
which  commands  a  remarkably  fine  *View  (custodian  l/2  fr.).  To 
the  W.  lies  the  town  with  its  sheltering  mountains  (the  Antenna- 
mare  or  Dinnamari ,  the  highest  peak  on  the  left ,  3705  ft. ;  the 
Monte  Cicci  on  the  right ,  1995  ft.).  To  the  E.  are  the  mountains 
of  Calabria ,  which  look  wonderfully  near  in  clear  weather.  We 
may  then  return  from  the  Lazzaretto  to  Messina  by  boat  (^2  fr.}. 

An  extensive  view  is  obtained  from  the  dismantled  fort  of 
*Castellaccio ,  situated  high  above  the  town  to  the  W.  (ascent 
1/2nr0-  This  hill  was  fortified  in  ancient  times,  and  again  under 
Charles  V.,  but  the  works  have  recently  been  removed.  The  view- 
embraces  the  town,  the  strait,  and  the  Calabrian  Mts. 

We  may  best  ascend  from  the  S.  end  of  the  Corso  Cavour,  skirting  the 
Torrente  Portalegni  to  the  right  (W.) ;  after  3  min.  turn  to  the  right  into 
the  Via  Alloro,  and  follow  the  left  bank  of  the  Torrente,  maintaining 
the  same  direction ;  farther  on  the  Vico  Lungo  Arcipeschieri  leads  to 
the  gate ;  immediately  beyond  the  gate  turn  to  the  left,  and  after  ten 
paces  ascend  by  the  steep,  rain-worn  path  to  the  right  (comp.  PI.  D,  4; 
D,  3;C,  3). 

Farther  to  the  S.  rises  Fort  Gonzaga  (PI.  C,  5),  erected  in 
1540,  a  similar  point  of  view  (ascent  '^  nr- i  turn  to  tne  "S'lt 
at  the  end  of  the  Corso  Cavour,  and  after  150  paces,  beyond  a 
fountain,  cross  the  smaller  bridge  to  the  left).  The  hill  between 
Gonzaga  and  the  town  is  the  Mow  Chalcidicus,  on  which  Hiero  II. 
pitched  his  camp  in  264,  and  where  Charles  of  Anjou  established 
his  headquarters  at  a  later  period.  In  1861  Cialdini  bombarded 
the  citadel  from  this  point. 

On  an  eminence  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  lies  the  new 
*Campo  Santo,  which  we  reach  by  the  Catania  road.  (Or ,  about 
3/4  M.  beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Torrente  Portalegni,  we  may 
follow  the  Yia  del  Campo  Santo  to  the  right,  which  passes  the  back 
of  the  cemetery;  comp.  PI.  D,  6;  cab,  see  p.  314.)  The  view  from 
this  height  is  very  striking.  Handsome  Ionic  colonnades  have 
been  erected  here,   and  under  them  is  interred  the  patriotic  Sicil- 


Strada  Militare.  MESSINA.  32.  Route.     321 

ian  historian  La  Farina ,  a  zealous  promoter  of  the  union  of 
Sicily  and  Piedmont  in  1860.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  is  a  modern 
church  in  the  Gothic  style. 

Another  fine  point  of  view  is  the  Monte  dei  Cappuccini  to  the 
N.  (PI.  D,  E,  1 ;  ascent  of  10  min.  from  the  end  of  the  Via  Gari- 
baldi, turning  to  the  left  heyond  the  Torrente  Trapani).  The  hill 
is  now  used  as  a  drilling-ground.  The  best  stand-point  is  near 
the  cross.  —  A  pleasant  view  is  also  obtained  from  the  Eremitaggio 
di  Trapani,  reached  by  ascending  the  Torrente  Trapani  for  1  hr. 

A  highly  interesting  drive  may  be  taken  on  the  *Strada  Mili- 
tare, which  connects  the  new  fortifications  and  encircles  the  town 
in  a  wide  curve  from  the  Campo  Inglese  to  the  Antennamare  (see 
below).  It  is  best  reached  from  the  Fort  Gonzaga  (p.  320)  or  from 
the  road  to  Milazzo  (see  below)  ;  orpedestrians  may  follow  the  steeper 
ascent  through  the  valley  of  the  Torrente  Boccetta  (p.  319)  and  via, 
the  village  of  Correo.  —  The  ascent  of  the  Monte  Antennamare 
(3705  ft. ;  p.  320),  which  commands  an  extensive  prospect,  may 
easily  be  accomplished  from  the  Strada  Militare. 

The  *Telegeafo  (p.  313),  reached  by  carriage  in  2  hrs.  by  the  new 
provincial  road  (PI.  E,  1),  is  another  fine  point.  Walkers  should  choose 
the  road  through  the  ravine  of  Ahbadiazza  (p.  313),  via  S.  Maria  delta 
Scala,  or  delta  Valle,  commonly  known  as  Ii'Abbadiazza,  the  interest- 
ing ruins  of  a  Norman  nunnery.  The  W.  portal  and  other  parts  of  the 
church,  which  was  richly  endowed  by  William  II.  and  Constance ,  date 
from  the  12th  century.  When  Peter  of  Aragon  and  Matilda  Alaimo-Sea- 
letta  returned  to  Messina,  which  had  just  been  relieved  from  the  siege  of 
Charles  of  Anjou,  they  were  received  here  by  the  jubilant  Messinians  and 
their  brave  commandant  Alaimo  (2nd  Oct.  1282).  After  the  plague  of  1347 
the  nuns  removed  to  the  town,  using  the  nunnery  as  a  summer  residence, 
but  as  this  was  prohibited  by  the  Council  of  Trent,  the  edifice  fell  to 
decay,  and  is  now  a  picturesque  ruin  with  desolate  surroundings.  —  A 
beautiful  view  is  obtained  from  the  top  of  the  pass,  the  so-called  Telegrafo.  — 
We  may  descend  hence  to  Gesso  (p.  313)  and  return  to  Messina  by  railway. 

If  time  permits,  the  traveller  may  proceed  to  the  N.  of  the  Telegrafo 
to  Caslanea  (Trattoria  in  the  Piazza,  tolerable,  with  rooms),  a  beautifully 
situated  village  on  the  N.W.  slope  of  the  Mte.  Cicci  (2000  ft.),  and  may  also 
ascend  the  latter  hill  itself  (extensive  view).  The  direct  route  to  the  top 
of  Mte.  Cicci  (2'/2  hrs.)  ascends  the  Torrente  di  Paradiso,  which  crosses 
the  Faro  road  and  falls  into  the  sea  2lfe  M.  to  the  N.  of  Messina.  The 
whole  range  commands  admirable  views  in  both  directions :  N.  as  far  as 
Milazzo  and  the  Lipari  Islands,  and  E.  over  the  strait  and  Calabria. 

*Excursion  to  the  Faro  (7^2  M. ;  steam-tramway  in  3/4hr.;  cab 
see  p.  314;  bargain  necessary  as  to  the  stay  to  be  made).  The  road 
skirts  the  base  of  precipitous  heights  rising  near  the  shore,  passes  the 
country-houses  al  Ringo,  and  leads  to  the  suppressed  Basilian  mon- 
astery of  Salvatore  dei  Oreci,  which  was  founded  by  Roger  I.  on  the 
promontory  of  the  harbour,  but  transferred  hither  in  1540.  The  view 
of  Calabria  becomes  more  striking  as  the  strait  narrows.  We  next 
pass  the  fishing-village  of  Pace  and  the  colonnade  of  the  church  of 
La  Grotta,  which  is  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Diana. 
The  two  salt-lakes  of  Pantani  are  connected  with  the  sea  by  open 
channels.  A  famous  temple  of  Neptune  once  stood  here. 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.     11th  Edition.  21 


322     Route  33.  LIPARI  ISLANDS. 

The  fishing-village  of  Faro  (Hotel  Paloro),  situated  on  the  pro- 
montory which  forms  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  island  of  Sicily  (Pro- 
montorium  Pelorum),  sprang  up  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century,  when  the  English  constructed  intrenchments  here  in  or- 
der to  prevent  the  French  under  Murat  from  crossing  to  the  Sicilian 
coast.  On  the  extremity  of  the  promontory,  1/2  M.  from  the  village, 
rises  the  Lighthouse,  which  should  he  ascended  for  the  sake  of  the 
view  (custodian  not  always  on  the  spot ;  enquiry  to  be  made  in  the 
village).  This  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Strait  of  Messina  (3600 
yds.).  On  a  rock  opposite,  to  the  E.,  lies  Scilla;  to  the  left  of  it  is 
Bagnara;  then  the  lofty  Monte  S.  Elia,  surmounted  by  a  small  cha- 
pel. To  the  left  below  the  promontory  glitters  Palmi,  beyond  which 
is  the  bay  of  Gioia  with  the  Capo  Vaticano  stretching  out  far  to  the 
W.    To  the  N.  and  N.W.  are  the  Lipari  Islands  and  the  open  sea. 

Chabybdis,  according  to  the  legend  of  the  Greek  mariners,  lay  opposite 
to  Scylla,  whence  the  well-known  proverb ;  but  the  name  is  now  be- 
lieved to  have  been  applied  to  the  strong  currents  (rema,  peuu.a)  which 
sweep  round  this  coast  on  a  change  of  tide.  The  principal  of  these  are 
off  the  village  of  Faro  and  near  the  small  lighthouse  at  the  extremity  of 
the  'sickle'  of  Messina.  The  latter  current  is  called  the  Garofalo  (car- 
nation) owing  to  its  circular  form.  Into  this  species  of  whirlpool  the  diver 
Cola  Pesce  of  Catania  precipitated  himself  during  the  reign  of  Frederick  II., 
an  incident  on  which  Schiller  founded  one  of  his  ballads.     Comp.  p.  222, 

A  *Tkip  to  Reggio  (p.  217)  is  strongly  recommended,  especially  in 
the  morning,  when  the  Sicilian  mountains  and  the  majestic  iEtna  are 
lighted  by  the  sun.  Besides  the  large  steam-packets ,  which  touch  at 
Reggio  almost  daily,  local  steamers  ply  twice  daily,  at  8  a.m.  and  3.45  p.m.; 
returning  from  Reggio  at  10  a.m.  and  5.30  p.m.,  see  p.  217;  the  local 
steamers  lie  alongside  the  quay  at  Messina. —  From  Reggio  travellers  may 
proceed  in  the  morning  train  to  Villa  S.  Giovanni  (p.  222)  or  Scilla  (p.  222; 
ascent  of  the  Aspromonle,  see  p.  218),  or  even  to  Palmi  (p.  222),  and  return 
to  Messina  by  the  steamer  from  Villa  S.  Giovanni  (see  below). 

A  shorter  method  of  visiting  Scilla  and  Palmi,  with  the  Monte  Elia, 
is  offered  by  the  Steamee  to  Villa  S,  Giovanni,  in  25-30  min.  (leaving 
Messina  about  6  30  and  11a.m.  and  1  and  5  p.m. ;  return-ticket  2  orl'/jfr.). 
At  Villa  S.  Giovanni  (landing  or  embarcation  15  c.)  the  train  is  usually 
found  waiting.  The  drive  to  Scilla  is  also  recommended  (there  and  back 
incl.  halt  6-7  fr. ;  bargaining  necessary).  To  Palmi  railway  in  1  hr.  (return- 
ticket  3  or  2  fr.  20  c. ;  no  3rd  cl.).  The  last  steamer  for  Messina  leaves 
Villa  S.  Giovanni  about  5  p.m. 

33.    The  Lipari  Islands. 

Comp.  the  Map  of  Sicily. 

A  steamer  of  the  Florio-Rubatlino  company  (no  refreshments  on  board) 
starts  from  Messina  on  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays  at  midnight,  arriving  at 
Lipari  at  6  on  the  following  mornings.  These  steamers  also  touch  alter- 
nately at  S.  Marina  (8  a.m.),  the  chief  place  on  the  island  of  Salina,  and 
at  Malta  (Wed.  at  9,  Sun.  at  9.30  a.m  );  and  then  usually  return  at  once 
to  Messina  (leaving  Malfa  on  Wed.  at  10,  Sun.  at  10.30;  S.  Marina  Wed. 
at  II,  Sun.  at  midday;  Lipari  at  2  p.m.;  reaching  Messina  at  8  p.m.).  On 
alternate  Wed.  the  steamer  proceeds  via,  Arenella  (arriving  8.15  a.m.)  and 
S.  Marina  (9  a.m.)  to  the  islands  of  Panaria  (10.30  a.m.)  and  Stromboli 
(1  p.m.),  where  a  halt  of  only  1  hr.  is  made  before  the  return,  weather 
permitting  (Stromboli  being  left  at  2  p.m.,  Panaria  4.30  p.m.,  S.  Marina 
l\15  p.m.,    Arenella  7pm,    T/pari  9  p.m.;  and  Messina  being  reached  at 


LIPARI.  33.  Route.     323 

3  a.m.  —  In  Lipari  travellers  may  put  up  at  Fr.  Trainees  Locanda  (good) 
or  in  the  clean  though  humble  house  of  Giuseppe  Sciazone.  In  the  other 
islands  accommodation  must,  be  obtained  at  private  houses ,  at  which, 
however,  it  is  strongly  advisable  to  agree  on  the  charges  beforehand. 
Bartolomrneo  Mcotera  may  be  recommended  as  a  guide  to  Lipari  and  Vol- 
cano (6  fr.  daily  and  food).  A  visit  to  the  Lipari  Islands  (costing  about 
60  fr. ;  to  Stromboli  50  fr.  more)  is  not,  of  course,  without  its  annoyances 
(scarcely  advisable  for  ladies),  but  it  is  extremely  interesting  to  the 
naturalist,  as  well  as  to  the  admirer  of  scenery,  and  irrespective  of  the 
varied  historical  associations  and  legendary  lore  connected  with  them, 
will  be  remembered  by  the  traveller  as  one  of  the  most  pleasing  parts 
of  his  Italian  tour. 

The  Lipari  Islands  (j£oliae,  Liparaeae,  Vulcaniae,  Sephaestiades),  which 
are  of  volcanic  origin,  consist  of  seven  islands  and  ten  islets,  variously  named 
"by  the  ancients.  At  an  early  period  they  supplied  abundant  food  for  the 
poetic  fancy  of  the  Greeks,  whose  legends  made  these  islands  the  abode 
of  iEolus,  ruler  of  the  winds.  Ulysses  (Odyss.  x.)  is  said  to  have  visited 
./Eolus  in  the  course  of  his  wanderings.  In  B.C.  579,  as  the  number  of  the 
inhabitants  had  become  greatly  reduced,  Pentathlus,  a  Heraclides,  estab- 
lished on  the  island  a  colony  of  Cnidians  and  Rhodians,  who  had  been 
unable  to  maintain  themselves  in  the  S.W.  angle  of  Sicily.  The  new 
settlers  cultivated  the  soil  in  common,  and  defended  themselves  bravely 
against  the  attacks  of  the  Etruscan  pirates. 

Lipara,  which  enjoyed  the  friendship  of  Syracuse,  was  plundered  by 
the  Athenians.  The  islands  afterwards  suffered  from  the  incursions  of 
the  Carthaginians.  In  260  the  Roman  admiral  Cneeus  Cornelius  Scipio  was 
surrounded  in  the  harbour  of  Lipara  and  taken  prisoner  by  the  Carthagi- 
nians. The  Romans  sent  a  colony  thither,  but  in  Cicero's  time  the  islands 
were  only  partially  cultivated.  This  was  possibly  owing  to  the  convulsions 
of  nature  which  must  have  occurred  in  B.C.  204 ,  when  the  island  of  Vol- 
canello  was  upheaved  from  beneath  the  sea.  In  the  year  B.C.  126  erup- 
tions under  water  were  also  observed  here,  destroying  vast  numbers  of 
fish.  In  the  middle  ages  the  Saracens  took  possession  of  the  islands,  but 
were  expelled  thence  by  the  Normans  in  the  11th  cent.,  and  the  Lipari 
group  now  became  united  with  Sicily.  During  the  wars  of  the  14th  cent, 
between  the  Sicilian  kings  and  the  Anjous  of  Naples,  the  islands  changed 
hands  according  to  the  varying  fortunes  of  the  respective  belligerents. 
Alphonso  the  Generous  annexed  them  to  Naples,  but  Ferdinand  the  Catholic 
united  them  finally  with  Sicily.  In  1544  they  were  plundered  by  Haireddin 
Barbarossa,  and  in  1783  suffered  greatly  from  the  earthquake. 

Lipari ,  called  Meligunis  in  the  most  ancient  times ,  the 
largest  and  most  productive  of  the  islands ,  is  about  lO1^  sq.  M. 
in  area.  The  ancient  town  of  the  same  name  (Aurapa  probably 
signifies  'the  fertile')  lay  on  an  isolated  rock  on  the  E.  coast  of 
the  island,  where  the  fort  is  now  situated,  around  which  the 
fertile  slopes  of  cultivated  land  rise  in  the  form  of  an  amphi- 
theatre towards  Sant  Angelo,  the  central  mountain  of  the  island, 
extending  in  a  spacious  crescent  between  Monte  Rosa  (755  ft.) 
on  the  N.  and  M.  di  Ouardia  (1215  ft.)  on  the  S.  In  the  centre 
of  the  plain,  between  the  fort  and  the  ascent  towards  S.  Angelo, 
on  the  site  of  the  episcopal  palace,  were  once  situated  extensive 
Baths,  partially  excavated  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century, 
but  again  filled  up  by  the  Bishop  Todaro,  in  order  that  they  might 
not  attract  visitors.  In  this  vicinity  was  situated  the  Necropolis, 
where  Greek  tombs  are  still  found,  bearing  inscriptions  on  the  ba- 
saltic tuff-stone,  some  of  which  are  preserved  in  the  seminary.  The 
■whole  area  is  now  called  Diana,   from  a  temple  to  that  goddess 

21* 


324     Route  33.  VOLCANO.  The  Lipari 

which  once  stood  here.  The  best  collection  of  Liparian  antiqui- 
ties is  now  in  the  possession  of  the  heirs  of  Baron  Mandralisca  at 
Cefalu  (p.  309).  M.  Torremuzza  enumerates  twenty-three  diffe- 
rent coins  of  Lipari.  Population  of  the  whole  island  13,000.  A 
bishop,  with  thirty-two  canons,  has  since  1400  presided  over  the 
diocese,  which  was  formerly  united  with  Patti.  The  secular  ad- 
ministration is  conducted  by  a  delegate,  subordinate  to  the  prefect 
of  Messina.  The  town,  erected  around  the  fort,  is  of  modern 
origin.  The  cathedral  and  three  other  churches  are  situated  within 
the  precincts  of  the  castle.  The  Cathedral  and  the  church  of  Ad- 
dolorata  contain  pictures  by  Alibrando  (b.  at  Messina  in  1470). 
The  sacristy  of  the  former  commands  a  beautiful  view  towards  the 
sea.  The  Marina  Lunga,  N.  of  the  castle,  is  occupied  by  fishermen 
only.  In  the  vicinity  is  a  warm  spring.  To  the  S.,  hy  the  landing- 
place  of  the  steamboats,  contiguous  to  the  church  of  Anime  del 
Purgatorio,  which  ahuts  on  the  sea,  are  situated  the  warehouses 
of  the  merchants  who  export  the  products  of  the  island :  pumice- 
stone,  currants  (passoline)  grown  on  reed-trellises,  sulphur,  Malm- 
sey wine  ,  excellent  figs,  etc.  Oranges  do  not  thrive  on  account 
of  the  scarcity  of  water.  For  domestic  purposes  the  rain  is  collected 
on  the  flat  roofs. 

A  visit  of  the  island  occupies  6-8  hrs.  (donkey  and  atten- 
dant 6  fr.).  We  ride  first  to  the  hot  springs  of  San  Calogero 
(6  M.),  in  a  desolate  valley  opening  towards  the  W.  side  of 
the  island,  which  issue  with  such  force  that  they  were  formerly 
used  to  turn  a  mill.  Temperature  about  126°  Fahr.  We  proceed 
thence  to  Le  Stufe  (also  called  Bagno  Secco) ,  the  vapour-baths 
described  by  Diodorus  Siculus,  where,  with  the  aid  of  the  guide,  we 
may  succeed  in  finding  some  of  the  interesting  fossils  which  abound 
here  (leaves,  wood  in  lava,  etc.).  Monte  Sant'Angelo  (1950  ft.)  may 
next  be  ascended.  The  extinct  volcano,  now  overgrown  with  grass 
and  broom,  affords  the  best  survey  of  the  town  below  and  the  entire 
group  of  islands.  A  path  descends  thence  to  Capo  Castagna,  the  N. 
end  of  the  island,  passing  the  Monte  Chirica  (1980  ft),  and  travers- 
ing the  Campo  Bianco,  where  pumice-stone  is  extensively  excavated, 
being  brought  to  the  surface  by  shafts,  and  dragged  down  to  the  coast 
(Baja  della  Pumice)  by  an  exceedingly  rough  path  (a  walk  of 
3/4  hr.)  by  men,  women,  and  children.  From  this  point  we  return 
to  the  town. 

Volcano  (Thermissa,  Hierd,  Vulcania,  Therasia),  with  its  con- 
stantly smoking  crater  (Sicil.  La  Fossa'),  is  entirely  uncultivated 
(area  8l/2  sq.  M.).  A  narrow  isthmus  connects  it  with  the  smaller 
island  of  Volcanello ,  which  according  to  Orosius  (iv.  20)  was 
suddenly  upheaved  about  the  year  B.C.  200,  and  has  since  retained 
its  original  form.  In  order  to  visit  the  great  crater ,  we  proceed 
by  boat  with  two  rowers  (8-10  fr.)  from  Lipari  in  1  hr.  to  the  Porto 
di  Levante,   the  bay  which  separates  Volcano  from  Volcanello     and 


Islands.  STROMBOLI.  33.  Route.     325 

disembark  near  the  sulphur-works  of  the  Neapolitan  family  of 
Nunziante.  A  footpath  (where  the  peculiar  hollow  reverberation 
produced  by  a  heavy  footstep  should  be  observed)  leads  in  40  min. 
to  the  summit  of  the  volcano,  into  which  the  traveller  may  de- 
scend, not  without  some  difficulty,  as  the  guides  avoid  this  'Casa  del 
Diavolo'.  The  greatest  diameter  of  the  crater  is  upwards  of  550  yds. 
The  precipitous  walls  on  the  E.,  S.,  and  W.  are  covered  with  yellow 
incrustations  of  sulphur.  After  descending,  the  traveller  should 
visit  a  boiling-hot  sulphur-spring,  which  issues  at  the  Porto  di 
Ponente,  a  few  paces  from  the  shore,  and  then  return  to  Lipari. 
(Provisions  should  be  brought  from  Lipari,  as  nothing  can  be 
procured  from  the  workmen,  who  live  in  caves,  and  subsist  on  bread 
and  ricotta  or  goats'  cheese,  here  called  frutte  di  mandra.) 

Isola  Salina  (Didyme,  i.e.  twins;  Arabic  Geziret  Dindima;  area  lOVs  sq. 
M.)  consists  of  the  cones  of  two  extinct  volcanoes,  Monte  Vergine  (2820  ft.) 
to  the  N.,  and  Monte  Salvatore  (3155  ft.),  or  Malaspina,  to  the  S.;  whence 
the  Greek  name.  The  island  is  extremely  fertile,  and  the  almost  exclusive 
source  of  the  famous  Malmsey  wine.  It  may  be  visited  from  Lipari  on 
the  same  day  as  Volcano.     Its  four  villages  contain  5500  inhabitants. 

Filicuri  (2540  ft. ;  Phcenicusa ,  Arabic  Geziret  Fictida) ,  9  M.  to  the  W. 
of  Salina,  was  anciently  clothed  with  palms,  whence  its  Greek  name,  but 
is  now  almost  entirely  uncultivated. 

Alicuri  (2780  ft.),  9Vz  M.  to  the  W.  of  Filicuri,  called  Ericusa  by  the 
ancients,  because  uncultivated  and  clothed  with  furze  only,  is  inhabited 
by  500  shepherds  and  fishermen.    No  tolerable  landing-place. 

To  the  N.E.  of  Lipari  is  situated  a  small  group  of  islands,  which  pos- 
sibly formed  a  single  island ,  prior  to  a  remarkable  eruption  recorded  by 
Pliny  and  Orosius,  which  took  place  here,  B.C.  126.  The  largest  of  these 
is  Panaria  (fficesia),  l1/^  M.  from  Lipari,  and  almost  entirely  uncultivated. 
The  ancients  did  not  reckon  this  as  one  of  the  seven  ^Eolian  islands,  but 
regarded  the  small  island  of  Lisca  Bianca,  or  Euonymus^  as  one  of  the 
number.  Highest  point  1380  ft.  —  The  island  of  Basiluzzo  contains  a  few 
relics  of  antiquity. 

Stromboli,  22  M.  to  the  N.N.E.  of  Lipari,  can  be  visited  only 
when  the  wind  is  favourable ;  and  even  in  that  case  a  sailing-boat 
takes  about  6  hrs.  for  the  voyage.  The  steamer  plying  once  a 
fortnight  should  be  used  for  the  return  (p.  322).  This  island,  named 
Strongyle  owing  to  its  circular  form,  was  regarded  by  the  ancients 
as  the  seat  of  ^Eolus,  the  god  of  the  winds,  for  which  Pliny  gives 
the  somewhat  unsatisfactory  reason ,  that  the  weather  could  be 
foretold  three  days  in  advance  from  the  smoke  of  the  volcano. 
In  the  middle  ages  Charles  Martel  was  believed  to  be  banished  into 
the  crater  of  Stromboli.  Returning  crusaders  professed  to  have  dis- 
tinctly heard  the  lamentations  of  tortured  souls  in  purgatory,  to 
which  this  was  said  to  be  the  entrance,  imploring  the  intercession 
of  the  monks  of  Cluny  for  their  deliverance.  The  cone  of  Strom- 
boli (3020  ft.)  is  one  of  the  few  volcanoes  which  are  in  a  constant 
state  of  activity.  The  crater  lies  to  the  N.  of  the  highest  peak  of 
the  island,  and  at  remarkably  brief  intervals  ejects  showers  of 
stones,  almost  all  of  which  again  fall  within  the  crater.  "When 
the  smoke  is  not  too  dense ,  the  traveller  may  therefore  approach 
the  brink  and  survey  the  interior  without  danger. 


326 

34.  From  Messina  to  Catania.  Taormina. 

59  M.  Railway  in  2-4  hrs.  (fares  10  fr.  75,  7  fr.  55,  4  fr.  85  c;  express, 
11  fr.  85,  8fr.  30  c);  to  Giardini  (Taormina)  in  1-2  hrs.  (fares  5fr.  45,  3  fr.  80, 
2  fr.  45  c;  express  6  fr.,  4  fr.  20  c);  to  Letojanni  (see  below;  no  express 
trains,  4  fr.  90,  3  fr.  45,  2  fr.  20  c).  —  A  Steamboat  also  plies  four  or  five 
times  weekly  from  Messina  to  Catania,  performing  the  trip  in  about  6  hrs. 

Half-a-day  suffices  for  a  hasty  visit  to  Taormina.  The  traveller  whose 
time  is  limited  should  start  from  Messina  by  the  afternoon-train,  alight 
at  Giardini,  and  ascend  at  once  to  Taormina  in  order  thence  to  see  the 
sunset,  and  next  morning  the  sunrise.  (The  midday  lights  are  less  favour- 
able.) Then  by  the  early  train  to  Catania.  If  possible,  however,  two  or 
three  days  should  be  devoted  to  Taormina,  which  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  spots  in  Sicily.  Those  who  intend  returning  to  Messina  should 
select  the  interesting  route  by  Letojanni. 

The  railway  skirts  the  coast,  penetrating  the  promontories  by 
means  of  fourteen  tunnels ,  crossing  many  flumare,  or  torrents,  the 
beds  of  which  are  generally  dry  ,  and  affording  fine  views  on  both 
sides.  Soon  after  leaving  Messina  we  observe  the  new  Campo 
Santo  oh  the  hill  to  the  right,  with  its  conspicuous  white  Gothic 
church.  4  M.  Tremestieri ;  5  M.  Mill;  7  M.  Galati;  10  M.  Oiampi- 
lieri.  On  an  abrupt  eminence ,  inland ,  is  situated  the  extensive 
monastery  of  S.  Flacido,  to  which  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made. 

11  M.  Scaletta,  the  residence  of  the  Ruffo  family,  Princes  of 
Scaletta.  The  picturesque  castle  rises  on  the  right  as  we  approach 
the  station.  15  M.  Ati,  with  sulphur-baths.  Beyond  it  Roccalumera 
is  seen  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  The  train  crosses  several  broad 
flumare.  17  M.  Nizza  di  Sicilia  (S.  Ferdinando),  with  a  ruined 
castle  of  Prince  Alcontres.  Henry  VI.  died  of  a  fever  contracted 
in  the  woods  of  the  Fiume  di  Nisi.  20^  M.  S.  Teresa.  Several 
more  broad  torrent-beds  are  crossed.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the 
beautiful  Capo  S.  Alessio,  with  a  deserted  fort.  On  the  hill  to 
the  right  lies  the  town  of  Forza.  Beyond  the  tunnel  (Traforo  di 
S.  Alessio)  which  penetrates  the  cape,  a  view  is  obtained  of  the 
promontory  of  Taormina  with  the  ruins  of  the  theatre.  Here  are 
the  Tauromenian  passes  of  the  ancients,  and  the  frontier  between 
the  territories  of  Messana  and  Naxos.  —  27  M.  Letojanni. 

Taormina  (l-iy4  hr. ;  donkey  2  fr.)  may  be  reached  hence  by  a  beautiful 
route,  which,  however,  is  better  suited  for  the  descent.  We  follow  the 
high-road  for  I1/4  M.,  and  then  diverge  by  a  footpath  to  the  right  to  the 
marble-quarries.     A  boy  had  perhaps  better  be  taken  as  a  guide. 

An  interesting  walk  may  be  taken  in  the  bed  of  the  large  Fiumara 
of  Letojanni  to  the  top  of  the  pass,  which  commands  a  charming  "View 
of  the  sea  on  the  one  side  and  the  picturesque  valley  of  Mongiuffi  on  the 
other.  Good  walkers  may  make  this  excursion  in  4>/2  hrs.,  following 
the  path  mentioned  above  (guide  desirable,  Vz-l  fr.).  —  Those  who  do 
not  object  to  a  little  scrambling  should  quit  the  path  about  5  min.  before 
reaching  the  top  and  follow  the  bank  of  the  stream,  in  order  to  see  the 
wild  and  romantic  scene  at  the  point  where  the  water  breaks  through 
the  barrier  of  rocks. 

30  M.  Giardini,  an  insignificant  place,  often  visited  by  fever, 
is  the  station  for  Taormina.  From  the  bay  here  Garibaldi  crossed 
to  Calabria  in  the  autumn  of  1860. 

Boating  Excursions  from  Giardini  are  exceedingly  enjoyable  in 
favourable   weather.     The   lofty    and  rugged  cliffs  of  the  coast  are  honey- 


TAORMINA.  34.  Route.     327 

combed  with  grottoes.  Bargaining  with  the  boatmen  necessary ;  1  fr.  per 
hr.j  or  l'/2  fr.  for  a  party,  is  a  reasonable  charge. 

Taormina  lies  on  an  abrupt  hill  about  380  ft.  above  the  railway- 
station  of  Giardini ,  and  is  reached  by  a  new  carriage-road  (cable 
tramway  under  construction).  The  road,  which  commands  beautiful 
views,  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  Messina  road,  near  the  Capo  di 
Taormina,  about  l^M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station,  and  ascends  in  long 
windings  for  3  M.  About  halfway  to  the  Capo  di  Taormina  a  steep 
footpath  diverges  to  the  left,  while  the  rough  bridle-path  commonly 
used  (no  view)  ascends  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
station,  following  the  bed  of  the  Torrente  Selina  part  of  the  way 
(reaching  the  town  in  1/2  hr.).  Porter  to  carry  small  articles  of  lug- 
gage 3/4-l  fr.  ;  donkey  I-IV2  fr-i  diligence,  1  fr.  each;  carriage  for 
1  pers.  3-4  fr.,  2pers.  5fr.,  3  pers.  7fr.,  4pers.  8fr.  (bargain  advis- 
able). Most  travellers  will  leave  their  heavier  luggage  at  the  station. 

Taormina.  —  Hotels.  '"Hotel  Timeo,  below  the  theatre,  commanding 
a  magnificent  view,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3,  B.  D/4,  dej.  3,  D.  4  (both  incl.  wine), 
pens.  8  fr.  (for  a  stay  of  a  week);  dependance  in  the  town  (not  recom- 
mended);  Gkand  Hotel   de  Taokmine,    also   close  to  the  theatre,  B.,  L., 

6  A.  31/2-672,  B.  I1/4,  dej.  21/2,  D.  4,  pons.  8-10  fr.;  'Hotel  Castello  Ca- 
tehina,  below  Taormina,  pens,  from  9  fr.,  English  landlord  (resident  phy- 
sician); "Hotel  Naumachie,  Corso  Umberto  86,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2>/2,  B.  1,  dej. 
2,  D.  3  (both  incl.  wine) ,  pens.  7-8  fr. ;  'Hotel  Victoria,  Corso  Umberto, 
with   garden,  R.,  L. ,  &  A.  2V2-3,   dej.  2,  D.  3  (both  incl.  wine),   pension 

7  fr.  (for  a  stay  of  some  time  6  fr.). 

Studio  of  0.  Oileng,  near  the  Porta  Messina,  open  10-4  (oil  and  water- 
colour  paintings).  —  Photographs:   Cnipi,  Via  Teatro  Greco. 

English  Church  Service  occasionally  held  in  the  Palazzo  Corvaia  (p.  330) 
by  the  chaplain  from  Messina. 

Taormina,  the  ancient  Tauromenium,  a  town  with  3000inhab., 
consisting  of  a  long  street  with  several  diverging  lanes ,  is  most 
beautifully  situated ,  and  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  a  Castle 
perched  on  a  rocky  height  (1300  ft.  above  the  sea-level).  Above 
the  latter  rises  the  hill  of  Mola  (2080  ft.),  and  farther  distant  is 
the  Monte  Venere  (2900  ft.). 

The  castle  was  formerly  the  Acropolis  of  Tauromenium,  which,  after  the 
destruction  of  Naxos  by  Dionysius  in  B.C.  403,  was  founded  by  the  Siculi 
(396) ,  to  whom  Dionysius  granted  the  necessary  land.  They ,  however, 
soon  renounced  their  allegiance  to  him  and  joined  the  Carthaginians,  and 
in  394  Dionysius  besieged  their  town  in  vain.  In  392,  however,  he  suc- 
ceeded in  capturing  it,  and  garrisoned  it  with  mercenaries.  In  358  Andro- 
machus,  father  of  the  historian  Timseus,  who  was  born  here,  transferred  the 
remainder  of  the  population  of  Naxos  to  Tauromenium  (comp.  p.  331).  Timo- 
leon,  who  landed  on  the  rocks  below  the  town,  was  warmly  supported  by  the 
inhabitants,  but  after  his  death  dissensions  arose.  The  town  then  joined  the 
Carthaginians  against  Agathocles,  for  which  it  was  afterwards  chastised  by  the 
tyrant.  After  his  death  the  town  came  into  the  power  of  Tyndarion,  who  in- 
vited Pyrrhus  to  Sicily  and  induced  him  to  land  near  Tauromenium  (278). 
When  the  Romans  concluded  a  peace  with  Hiero  II.  of  Syracuse,  the  town 
came  into  their  possession  and  enjoyed  a  long  period  of  tranquillity.  A  num- 
ber of  the  slaves  established  themselves  here  during  the  First  Servile  War, 
and  offered  a  long  and  obstinate  resistance.  As  the  town,  being  an  ally  of 
Rome,  had  declared  in  favour  of  Sextus  Pompeius  and  thus  occasioned  great 
embarrassment  to  Octavian,  it  afterwards  experienced  the  effects  of  his  wrath, 
and  was  peopled  by  a  new  colony.    In  the  time  of  Strabo  it  was  a  place  of 


328     Route  34. 


TAORMINA. 


From  Messina 


considerable  importance.  Its  strong  position  long  enabled  the  inhabitants  to 
ward  off  the  attacks  of  the  Saracens,  who  in  869  besieged  it  unsuccessfully. 
But  on  1st  Aug.,  902,  it  was  taken  by  the  bloodthirsty  Ilrahim-ibn-Ahmed, 
after  the  garrison  had  sallied  forth  and  been  defeated  on  the  coast. 
Mola,  too,  was  captured  by  the  Moors,  the  whole  population  massacred,  and 
the  town  burned.  The  adherents  of  the  Bishop  Procopius,  whose  heart 
the  savage  Ibrahim  proposed  to  devour,  were  strangled  and  burned  on 
his  corpse.  The  town,  however,  recovered  from  this  cruel  blow,  and 
Hassan ,  the  first  Emir ,  was  obliged  to  besiege  and  capture  it  anew 
in  962.  He  then  introduced  a  colony  of  Mussulmans,  and  named  the  town 
Moezzia.  In  1078  it  was  taken  by  the  Normans  ,  under  whose  supremacy 
it  again   prospered.     Here  in  1410  was   held  the  parliament  which   vainly 


endeavoured  to  find  a  national  sovereign  to  rule  over  Sicily.  Battles  were 
subsequently  fought  here  on  two  different  occasions.  In  1676  the  French 
took  possession  of  Taormina  and  Mola,  but  on  17th  Dec,  1677,  a  party 
of  forty  brave  soldiers  caused  themselves  to  be  hoisted  to  the  summit  of  the 
rocks  of  Mola  by  ropes  (at  the  point  where  the  path  from  Taormina  skirts 
the  base  of  the  cliff),  and  succeeded  in  surprising  and  overpowering  the 
garrison.  Again,  on  2nd  April,  1849,  the  Neapolitans  under  Filangieri, 
'Duke  of  Taormina'',  gained  possession  of  the  town,  which  was  defended 
for  a  few  days  only  by  a  small  body  of  troops  under  Santa  Rosalia. 


to  Catania.  TAORMINA.  34.  Route.     329 

Ascending  the  main  street  (Corso  Umberto)  from  the  Porta  di 
Catania,  the  W.  entrance  of  the  town,  nearly  to  the  other  end  of 
Strada  the  town,  we  reach  the  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele.  Thence  the 
di  Giovanni,  continued  by  the  Salita  del  Teatro,  leads  S.E.  to  the 
celebrated  theatre,  by  far  the  most  interesting  sight  of  Taormina. 

The  *Theatbb  is  situated  420  ft.  above  the  sea- level,  on  a 
height  to  the  E.  of  the  town. 

The  custodian  is  on  the  spot  the  whole  day  (1  fr.).  If  the  visitor  desires 
to  see  the  sunrise  from  this  point  he  should  give  the  custodian  notice 
beforehand,  in  order  that  the  door  may  be  left  open  for  him.  —  The 
custodian  shows  a  small  Museum  containing  a  torso  of  Bacchus ,  a  fine 
head  of  Apollo  from  the  theatre,  inscriptions,  mosaics,  sarcophagi,  and 
architectural  fragments. 

The  theatre  is  of  Greek  origin ,  but  dates  in  its  present  form 
from  a  restoration  carried  out  in  the  Roman  period  ,  in  whioh  the 
stage  was  entirely  reconstructed.  Excavations  made  in  1882  prove 
that  a  building  of  the  Greek  period  on  the  top  of  the  rock,  near  the 
museum,  was  removed  by  the  Romans  to  make  room  for  the  foun- 
dations of  the  upper  vestibule.  According  to  an  inscription  on  the 
road-side ,  the  theatre  was  destroyed  by  the  Saracens ,  while  in 
reality  it  owes  its  ruin  to  the  Duca  di  S.  Stefano,  who  employed 
its  marble  ornaments  in  decorating  his  palace.  In  1748  it  was 
partly  restored.  It  is  hewn  in  the  rock  in  a  semioircular  form, 
and  is  bounded  at  the  upper  end  and  on  two  sides  only  by  Roman 
masonry.  The  greatest  diameter  is  357  ft.,  that  of  the  orchestra 
about  126  ft.  The  stage,  next  to  that  of  Aspendus  in  Pamphylia, 
is  the  best-preserved  in  existence.  In  the  posterior  wall  are 
observed  the  three  doors  of  the  stage,  in  each  space  between 
which  are  three  niches,  and  on  each  side  a  niche  for  a  statue. 
The  stage  itself  is  narrow,  as  in  Greek  theatres,  where  the 
orchestra  occupied  the  greater  space.  The  exact  position  of 
the  'thymela'  (or  raised  platform  for  the  choir)  cannot  now  be 
determined.  Beneath  the  stage  is  situated  a  vaulted  channel  for 
water.  The  precise  object  of  the  apertures  in  the  proscenium  is 
unknown,  but  they  were  probably  connected  with  the  machinery 
of  the  theatre.  Festal  processions  advanced  to  the  stage  from  the 
vaulted  halls  on  each  side.  The  adjoining  smaller  apartments 
were  probably  used  as  dressing-rooms.  The  seats  for  spectators 
were  divided  into  nine  cunei.  The  idea  that  the  thirty-four  niches 
on  the  upper  praecinctiones  were  occupied  by  sounding-boards  is 
questionable,  as  the  acoustic  properties  of  the  building  are  already 
so  successful  that  every  word  spoken  on  the  stage  is  distinctly  aud- 
ible at  the  farther  extremity.  Corresponding  with  the  remains  of 
the  forty-five  columns  are  forty-five  pilasters  along  the  central  wall. 

The  ""View  from  the  hill  on  which  the  theatre  stands  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  in  Italy.  We  first  take  up  our  position  on  the  steps  in 
front  of  the  small  museum  on  the  top.  On  the  right,  immediately  below 
us ,  lies  the  well-preserved  theatre ,  and  to  the  left  rises  the  gigantic  py- 
ramid of  jEtna.  To  the  left  in  the  foreground ,  in  the  valley  of  the  Al- 
cantara,  are  the  mountains  of  Castiglione,   and  then  the  hills  and  rocky 


330     Route  34.  MOLA.  From  Messina 

peaks  beyond  the  theatre :  from  left  to  right  we  first  observe  La  Maestra, 
S.  Maria  della  Eocca  (the  hermitage),  the  castle  of  Taormina,  and  beyond 
it  the  overhanging  hill  of  Mola  and  the  still  higher  Monte  Venere  or 
Venerella;  at  the  point  where  the  latter  slopes  down  towards  the  N.  is 
seen  the  rocky  peak  of  Lapa,  and  then,  nearer  us,  to  the  left,  beyond  the 
fiumara ,  the  precipitous  M.  Zirreto  with  its  marble  quarries.  The  view 
is  even  more  beautiful  in  the  morning,  when  the  sun  rises  above  Calabria 
or  from  the  sea,  imparts  a  rosy  hue  to  the  snowy  peak  of  Jit.  jEtna,  and 
then  gilds  the  rocky  heights  beyond  the  theatre.  Those  who  make  a 
prolonged  stay  at  Taormina  will  have  an  opportunity  of  observing  some 
marvellous  effects  of  light  and  shade. 

The  other  sights  of  the  town  may  he  visited  by  those  who  have 
abundance  of  time.  In  the  Piazza  Vittoiio  Emanuele  (p.  329)  is 
the  Gothic  Palazzo  Cokvaia.  The  interesting  court  of  this  palace 
is  entered  hy  a  door  in  the  Piazza  Cavour ;  on  the  staircase  is  a 
relief  (14th  cent.)  representing  the  Creation  of  Eve,  the  Flood,  and 
Adam  delving  and.  Eve  spinning. 

Many  of  the  doorways  and  windows  in  the  Corso  are  either 
Gothic  or  Romanesque.  —  In  the  Giardino  del  Capitolo,  in  the 
Strada  Naumachia,  which  diverges  to  the  left,  is  a  so-called  Roman 
Naumaehia,  probably  once  a  bath-establishment.  Of  five  Roman 
reservoirs  one  only  (Lo  Stagnone),  under  the  castle-hill,  is  in  good 
preservation.  —  The  Corso  leads  on  to  the  Cathedral,  the  side- 
entrance  to  which  is  formed  by  a  handsome  Gothic  portal.  Inside, 
to  the  right  of  the  high-altar ,  is  a  statue  of  the  Madonna  ,  dating 
from  the  15th  century.  In  front  of  the  main  entrance  is  a  fountain. 
—  The  road  to  the  right  of  the  fountain  ascends  to  the  Villa  Zuccaro, 
near  which  is  the  Badia  Vecchia,  a  fine  Gothic  ruin.  —  Farther  on 
in  the  Corso  is  the  Gothic  Palazzo  S.  Stefano ,  with  vaulted  baths 
borne  by  granite  columns.  —  In  the  vicinity  of  the  town  are  four 
interesting  grottoes. 

The  following  walk  is  recommended.  From  the  Piazza  Vittorio 
Emanuele  through  the  Porta  di  Messina  to  the  church  of  S.  Pan- 
crazio ,  the  cella  of  a  Greek  temple  (prostylos) ,  which  was  once 
supposed  to  be  that  of  Apollo  Archagetes.  Then  back  to  the  road, 
which  we  descend,  passing  some  Roman  tombs  (turn  to  the  right 
after  5  min.),  to  the  (10  min.)  church  of  SS.  Pietro  e  Paolo,  near 
which  is  an  extensive  necropolis.  The  stairs  adjoining  the  church 
lead  to  the  former  convent  of  the  Frati  Osservanti ,  from  which  the 
town  is  regained  by  a  footpath. 

Another  beautiful  walk  is  to  Mola  (1  hr.,  guide  unnecessary; 
stony  path).  Within  the  Porta  di  Messina  we  turn  to  the  left 
towards  the  fountain,  pass  to  the  right  of  it,  and  follow  the  water- 
conduit;  then,  130  paces  from  the  fountain,  we  pass  to  the  left 
under  the  conduit  and  follow  the  road.  Mola  (osteria  by  the  Ma- 
trichiesa,  poor  and  dear),  a  dirty  village  which  lies  2080  ft.  above 
the  sea-level,  commands  an  imposing  view,  the  finest  point  being 
the  ruined  castle  (key  obtained  for  a  trifling  gratuity).  In  returning 
we  follow  the  crest  of  the  hill,  which  to  the  right  descends  to  the 
Fiumara  della  Decima  and  to  the  left  to  the  Torrente  di  Fontana 


to  Catania.  GIARRE.  34.  Route.     331 

Vecchia,  and  reach  the  back  of  the  castle  of  Taormina.  Under  the 
almond-trees  is  the  entrance  to  the  castle,  whence  another  admirable 
view  is  obtained.  We  may  then  descend  to  the  S.E.  by  a  winding 
path  between  the  mountain  and  the  hermitage  (Madonna  della  Rocca). 
Near  the  Porta  Francese  are  rock-tombs  of  pre-Hellenic  origin. 

The  castle  also  commands  a  view  of  the  site  of  Naxos,  the  earliest 
Greek  colony  in  Sicily,  founded  by  Theocles  in  B.C.  735.  It  is  now  occu- 
pied by  a  lemon-plantation,  situated  between  the  influx  of  the  Alcantara 
and  the  bay  on  which  Giardini  lies.  The  altar  of  Apollo  Archagetes,  the 
tutelary  god  of  the  colonists ,  on  which  the  ambassadors  of  the  Sicilian 
Greeks  were  wont  to  offer  sacrifices  before  starting  for  the  Hellenic  festal 
assemblies,  stood  between  the  river  and  Taormina.  Naxos  was  subjugated 
by  Hiero  I.  of  Syracuse  in  476,  but  soon  regained  its  liberty  and  espoused 
the  cause  of  Athens,  whose  general  Nicias  wintered  in  the  town  in  415-14. 
It  was  destroyed  by  Dionysius  in  403. 

The  ascent  of  Monte  Venere  (2900  ft. ;  4-5  hrs.  there  and  back)  may 
easily  be  combined  with  a  visit  to  Mola,  and  should  not  be  omitted  by 
those  who  have  a  few  days  to  spend  at  Taormina.  At  the  deep  depression 
behind  the  hill  of  Mola  we  skirt  the  churchyard  -  wall ,  following  the 
somewhat  stony  path  ascending  the  arete.  Refreshments  at  the  cottage 
passed  on  the  way.  The  top  commands  an  extensive  view,  including  the 
Val  d' Alcantara,  Castiglione,  Randazzo,  etc. 

Continuation  of  Journey  to  Catania.  Beyond  Giardini  the 
railway  traverses  the  lava-streams  of  iEtna.  On  the  northernmost 
of  these  stands  the  so-called  Castello  di  Schisb,  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Naxos.  32  M.  Calatabiano ;  the  little  town  lies  above ,  to 
the  right.  The  train  crosses  the  Alcantara,  the  ancient  Acesines. 
Cantata  is  an  Arabic  word  signifying  a  bridge.  The  Sicilians  name 
the  river  and  the  bridge  by  which  the  high-road  crosses  it  after  the 
town  of  (32 Y2  M.)  Calatabiano,  situated  to  the  right.  This  district 
is  rendered  unhealthy  by  malaria.  The  lava-stream  which  descended 
beyond  (33!/2  M.)  Alcantara  and  the  Ponte  della  Disgrazia  across 
the  Fiume  Freddo,  prevented  the  Carthaginian  general  Himilco  from 
proceeding  direct  to  Syracuse  after  the  destruction  of  Messana,  and 
compelled  him  to  march  round  the  mountain  to  the  N.  (B.C.  396). 
Here,  too,  the  road  now  diverges  which  leads  to  Catania  via.  Ran- 
dazzo  and  Aderno  (see  R.  35). 

35^2  M.  Piedimonte  (the  town,  p.  333,  is  situated  3  M.  from  the 
railway).  The  train  next  traverses  the  fertile  district  of  Mascali  and 
reaches  (40 ^  M.)  Oiarre-Riposto. 

Giarre  (Locanda  della  Pace,  tolerable),  3/4  M.  frpm  the  station, 
is  a  town  with  18,000  inhab.;  Riposto  (Scrofina's  Inn,  tolerable) 
lies  to  the  left,  on  the  coast.  Above  the  village  of  S.  Alfio,  on 
the  slopes  of  iEtna ,  4^  M.  above  Giarre,  are  the  remains  of  the 
gigantic  chestnut-tree  di  Cento  Cavalli,  near  which  several  other 
famous  old  trees  are  still  flourishing.  The  craters  which  were  in 
activity  in  1865  and  the  Valle  del  Bove  may  be  reached  from 
Giarre  in  5  hrs.  (comp.  p.  348). 

4372  M.  Carruba;  46  M.  Mangano.  The  train  crosses  several 
lava-beds.    Fine  view  of  iEtna  and  the  sea.    Four  tunnels. 


332   Route  34.  ACIREALE. 

50!/2  M.  Acireale,  Sicil.  Jaci  (Grand  Hotel,  near  the  station,  a 
laige  establishment  of  the  first  class,  with  garden  and  S.  aspect, 
pens.  8-10  fr.;  Hotel  Buggieri,  in  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  2,  de"j.  2,  D.  iy2,  bothincl.  wine,  pens.  8fr.,  unpretending,  but 
good),  a  wealthy  country-town  with  24,000  inhab.,  has  been  almost 
entirely  re-erected  since  the  earth-quake  of  1093,  and  stands  on 
several  different  lava-streams,  560  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  climate 
here  is  considered  so  healthy,  that,  during  the  last  ten  years,  the 
place  has  often  been  preferred  to  Catania  for  a  prolonged  stay.  A 
large  Bath-house  called  the  Terme  di  8.  Venera  (mineral  bath  2  fr., 
vapour  bath  2!/2  fr.),  has  been  erected  to  the  left  of  the  station  for 
patients  using  the  tepid  mineral  water,  which  contains  sulphur 
and  iodine.  The  springs  (Pozzo  di  8.  Venera),  with  the  remains 
of  an  ancient  Roman  bath ,  are  about  2  M.  distant  (interesting 
walk).  The  garden  of  the  bath  -  house  and  the  Villa  Belvedere 
(Giardino  Pubblico),  at  the  N.  end  of  the  town,  l*/4  M.  from  the 
station,  command  admirable  views  of  Mt.  Mtm,  and  the  coast.  The 
church  of  8.  Sebastiano,  in  the  market-place,  has  a  very  successful 
baroque  facade.  Baron  Salvatore  Pennisi  possesses  an  excellent  col- 
lection of  Sicilian  coins,  which,  however,  is  not  shown  without  a 
special  introduction.  —  The  environs  are  full  of  geological  interest. 
Pleasant  walks  or  drives  may  be  taken  to  the  villages  of  Valverde, 
Viagrande,  Tre  Castagni,  and  Blandano,  on  the  slopes  of  Mt.  ^Etna, 
surrounded  with  luxuriant  vegetation  (comp.  the  Map,  p.  342). 
The  myth  of  Acis,  Galatea,  and  the  giant  Polyphemus,  narrated 
by  Theocritus  and  Ovid  (Metamorph.  xiii)  is  associated  with  this 
locality.  A  precipitous  path  (la  Scalazza)  descends  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Acis.  —  Pleasant  excursions  may  be  taken  by  S.  Antonio  (with 
the  palace  and  garden  of  Prince  Carcaci)  and  Tre  Castagni  to  Nico- 
losi  (p.  346  ;  one-horse  carriage  15  fr. ;  23/4  hrs. ;  back  in  2  hrs.), 
and  to  Catania  by  the  high-road  (carriage  12  fr.).  A  row  along  the 
coast  to  the  Cyclopean  Islands  (see  below)  is  also  enjoyable. 

The  train  approaches  the  sea.  Near  Aci  Castello,  we  perceive 
on  the  left  the  seven  Scogli  de'  Ciclopi,  or  Faraglioni,  the  rocks 
which  the  blinded  Polyphemus  hurled  after  the  crafty  Ulysses.  To 
the  S.  of  the  Isola  d'Aci,  the  largest  of  the  islands,  rises  the  most 
picturesque  of  these  rocks,  about  200  ft.  in  height  and  2000  ft.  in 
circumference.  It  consists  of  columnar  basalt,  in  which  beautiful 
crystals  are  found,  and  is  covered  with  a  hard  stratum  of  limestone 
containing  numerous  fossil  shells.  The  coast  here  is  lofty,  and 
has  risen  more  than  40  ft.  within  the  historical  period.  Near  these 
cliffs  Mago,  although  cut  off  from  the  land-army  under  Himilco, 
defeated  the  Syracusan  fleet  under  Leptines  in  396. 

5472  M.  Aci  Castello,  with  a  picturesque  ruined  castle,  in 
which  the  adherents  of  Roger  Loria  defended  themselves  in  1297 
against  Frederick  II.  and  Artale  Aragona.  5572  M.  Cannizzaro. 
The  train  then  skirts  the  bay  of  L'Ongnina,  which  is  supposed  to 


NEBRODE.  35.  Route.     333 

be  identical  with  the  Portus  Vlyxis  described  by  Yirgil  (^En.  iii. 
570),  and  filled  by  a  lava-stream  in  the  15th  century.  On  the  right 
we  at  length  perceive  — 

59  M.  Catania,   see  p.  336. 

35.   From  Taormina  to  Catania  round  the  W.  side 
of  Mt.  JEtna. 

Comp.  the  Map,  p.  342. 
The  distance  is  about  60  M.,  which  may  accomplished  by  carriage  in 
two  days,  though  three  days  may  well  be  devoted  to  this  delightful  tour, 
which  gives  a  strikingi  dea  of  the  devastating  volcanic  activity  of  Mt.  ./Etna. 
The  charge  for  a  carriage-and-pair  is  about  25  fr.  daily,  with  25  fr.  more 
for  the  return-journey.  A  single  traveller  may  avail  himself  of  the  Cor- 
riera Postaxe  ,  which  starts  in  the  morning  from  Piedimonte,  the  third 
railway-station  to  theS.  of  Giardini  (see  below),  reaching  Adernb  in  11  hrs. 
Another  corriera  leaves  Aderno  in  the  evening,  arriving  at  Catania  at 
3  a.m.  A  Diligenza  also  runs  twice  daily  from  Aderno  to  Catania.  — 
The  inns  are  so  poor  that  it  is  as  well  to  be  provided  with  food.  —  A  local 
railway  round  Mt.  Mtmi,  (Ferrovia  Circumetnea)  is  being  built,  but  only  the 
portion  between  Cibali  (a  suburb  of  Catania)  and  Misterbianco  (p.  336)  is 
near  completion. 

This  route  is  especially  recommended  to  those  who  wish  to  visit  the 
scene  of  the  jEtna  eruption  of  1879.  Randazzo  is  the  chief  place  for  guides 
for  that  purpose,  but  guides  may  also  be  obtained  at  Biancavilla  (comp. 
p.  335).  —  The  distances  in  the  following  description  are  reckoned  from 
Giardini.  —  The  ascent  of  Etna  may  be  combined  with  this  excursion, 
by  proceeding  from  Licodia  (p.  335)  to  Nicolosi  (p.  346)  via,  Belpasso. 

Giardini,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  Taormina,  see  p.  327.  — 
The  route  (to  the  left  at  the  fork)  at  first  follows  the  Catania  road 
to  (3  M.)  Pasieria,  a  small  village  in  the  parish  of  Calatabiano 
(p.  331).  It  then  crosses  the  river  Alcantara  and  farther  on  the 
Fiume  Menessale  and  diverges  from  the  coast-road ,  following  the 
old  military  road  from  Messina  to  Palermo,  which  was  traversed 
by  Himilco  in  B.C.  396,  by  Timoleon  in  B.C.  344,  and  by  Char- 
les V.  in  A.D.  1534.  7i/2  M.  Piedimonte  (Alb.  della  Pace),  3  M. 
from  the  station  of  that  name  (p.  331),  whence  the  Corriera  starts. 
10^2  M.  Linguaglossa  (Alb.  Garibaldi,  clean).  To  the  right  is 
Castiglione,  which  yields  the  best  Sicilian  hazel-nuts.  The  road  to 
Randazzo  intersects  extensive  nut-plantations.  A  little  beyond  Lin- 
guaglossa we  obtain  a  more  uninterrupted  view  of  the  valley  of  the 
Alcantara  and  the  chain  of  the  lofty  Nebrode,  at  the  point  where  the 
mountains  of  Castiglione  are  lost  to  view.  Near  the  hamlet  of  Mal- 
vagna,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Alcantara ,  stands  a  small  Byzantine 
church ,  the  only  one  in  Sicily  which  has  survived  the  Saracenic 
period,  an  interesting  object  to  architects.  In  the  vicinity  probably 
lay  the  town  of  Tissa  mentioned  by  Cicero.  The  neighbouring  village 
of  Mojo,  a  little  to  the  S.,  lies  near  the  northernmost  crater  of  the 
jEtna  region.  We  now  traverse  part  of  the  lava  ejected  by  Mt. 
iEtna  in  1879  (guides  at  Randazzo,  comp.  p.  341).  The  lava  ad- 
vanced nearly  as  far  as  the  Alcantara,  and  threatened  to  overwhelm 
the  village  of  Mojo,  the  inhabitants  of  which  sought  to  appease  the 


334     Route  35.  BRONTE. 

•wrath  of  nature  by  a  religious  procession  bearing  the  statue  of  St. 
Anthony,  their  patron  saint. 

22  M.  Eandazzo  (2535  ft.;  Locanda  di  Joppolo ,  R.  2  fr.,  well 
spoken  of),  with  8500  inhab.,  a  town  of  quite  a  mediaeval  appearance, 
founded  by  a  Lombard  colony ,  was  surnamed  Etnea  by  the  Emp. 
Frederick  II.,  being  the  nearest  town  to  the  crater  of  the  volcano, 
and  yet  having  escaped  destruction.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  called 
'the  populous'.    The  churches  are  all  built  of  lava. 

The  church  of  S.  Maria,  on  the  right  side  of  the  street,  dates 
from  the  13th  cent,  (choir),  the  lateral  walls  from  the  14th; 
the  campanile  has  been  added  to  the  original  tower  during  the 
present  century.  An  inscription  mentions  Petrus  Tignoso  as 
the  first  architect.  The  houses  present  many  interesting  speci- 
mens of  mediaeval  architecture ,  such  as  the  Palazzo  Finochiaro 
with  an  inscription  in  barbarous  Latin  ,  the  mansion  of  Barone 
Fesaul ,  and  the  Town  Hall  in  which  Charles  V.  once  spent  a 
night.  From  the  old  Ducal  Palace,  now  a  prison,  still  protrude 
the  spikes  on  which  the  heads  of  criminals  were  exposed.  A  hand- 
some mediaeval  vaulted  passage  leads  from  the  main  street  to  the 
church  of  8.  Nicolb ,  which  is  constructed  of  alternate  courses  of 
black  and  white  stone.  Don  Vagliasindi  possesses  a  small  Museum 
of  Roman  antiquities,  to  which  access  may  be  obtained  through  Sig. 
Joppolo,  landlord  of  the  hotel. 

The  road  to  Bronte  still  ascends,  at  first  through  a  forest  of 
oaks  with  ivy-clad  trunks,  and  the  vegetation  here  assumes  quite 
a  northern  character.  Before  the  path  to  the  small  town  of  Ma- 
letto  diverges,  we  reach  the  culminating  point  between  the  Al- 
cantara and  Simeto  (3810  ft.).  The  torrents  in  spring  form  the 
small  lake  Gurrita  in  the  valley  to  the  right,  the  exhalations  from 
which  poison  the  atmosphere  in  summer. 

To  the  right,  in  a  valley  below  Maletto,  lies  the  suppressed  Benedictine 
monastery  of  Maniacium.  Here  in  the  spring  of  1040  the  Greek  general  Ma- 
niaces,  aided  by  Norwegians  (commanded  by  Harald  Hardradr,  afterwards 
king)  and  Normans,  defeated  a  large  army  of  Saracens.  Margaret,  mother  of 
William  II.,  founded  the  monastery  in  1174,  and  William  Blesensis,  brother 
of  the  celebrated  Pierre  de  Blois,  became  the  first  abbot.  Ferdinand  IV. 
presented  the  whole  estate  to  Nelson  in  1799,  and  created  him  Duke  of 
Bronte  (a  town  which  is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  Ppovrav,  to  thun- 
der). The  steward  of  General  Viscount  Bridport,  the  present  proprietor, 
resides   at  Maniace,  which  possesses  handsome  vaulted  gateways. 

The  high  mountain-ranges  to  the  right,  which  are  covered  with 
snow  in  spring,  and  the  far  more  lofty  'Pillar  of  Heaven', 
'Nourisher  of  the  Snow',  as  Pindar  calls  iEtna,  to  the  left,  invest 
the  scenery  with  an  almost  Alpine  character.  In  1651  a  vast 
lava-stream  descended  into  the  valley  close  to  Bronte. 

30  M.  Bronte  (2605  ft.  ;  Locanda  dei  Fratelli  Cesare ;  hoc.  del 
Real  Collegio,  tolerable),  with  15,500  inhab.,  has  been  erected 
since  the  time  of  Charles  V.  —  The  road  thence  to  Aderno  traverses 
barren  beds  of  lava,  crossing  the  stream  of  1843  (2M.  from  Bronte), 


.PATERNO.  35.  Route.    335 

and  those  of  1727,  1763,  1603,  1787,  and  1610.  The  craters  visible 
before  us  are  (reckoned  from  the  summit  of  iEtna  downwards 
towards  the  W.)  the  Monti  Lepre,  Bovolo,  and  Minardo.  The  com- 
munes of.  Aderno  and  Bronte  possess  a  beautiful  forest  here,  bound- 
ed by  Mte.  Minardo.  The  highest  mountain  to  the  right,  towards 
the  N.,  is  Monte  Outtb ;  the  Serra  delta  Spina  belongs  to  the  Nel- 
son estate.    The  Foresta  di  Traina  is  also  called  Monte  Cunano. 

40^2  M.  Aderno  (Locanda  di  Roma,  tolerable),  a  wealthy  town 
with  16,000  inhabitants.  In  the  Piazza  rises  the  quadrangular  Nor- 
man castle  erected  by  Roger  I.,  now  used  as  a  prison;  the  interior 
is  very  dilapidated.  In  the  chapel  are  seen  remains  of  frescoes 
representing  Adelasia,  grand-daughter  of  Roger  I.,  taking  the  veil. 
The  convent  of  S.  Lucia,  nearly  opposite,  was  founded  by  Roger  in 
1157.  In  ancient  times  the  Sikelian  city  of  Hadranum  stood  here, 
celebrated  on  account  of  its  temple  of  Hadranos,  which  was  guarded 
by  upwards  of  1000  dogs.  Fragments  of  this  structure,  perhaps  of 
the  cella,  are  shown  in  the  garden  of  Salvatora  Palermo  at  a  place 
called  Cartellemi,  on  the  right,  outside  the  town.  This  was  the 
headquarters  of  Timoleon  after  he  had  defeated  Nicetas  of  Syra- 
cuse in  the  vicinity.  In  the  valley  of  the  Simeto ,  to  the  W.  of 
Aderno,  !/2  M.  from  the  bridge  over  the  river,  are  the  remains  of 
a  Roman  aqueduct  (Ponte  Carcacci).  —  The  road  descends  from 
Aderno  to  the  town  of  — 

42Y2M.  Biancavilla,  with  14,000  inhab.,  some  of  whom  are  of 
Albanian  origin.    Station  of  the  Mt.  ^Etna  guides,  see  p.  342. 

441/2  M.  8.  Maria  di  Lieodia.  The  town  of  Mtna  is  said  to  have 
lain  in  this  neighbourhood.  The  road  to  (l3/4  M.)  Belpasso  (see 
below)  diverges  to  the  left  immediately  beyond  the  village.  Between 
Lieodia  and  Paterno,  on  the  right,  1  M.  below  Lieodia,  begins  the 
Roman  aqueduct  to  Catania. 

451/2M.  Paterno  [Albergo  Concordia,  well  spoken  of;  Locanda 
diSicilia,  tolerable),  on  the  site  of  the  Sikelian  town  of  Hyb la 
Minor,  now  contains  17,000  inhab.,  chiefly  of  the  lower  classes, 
the  landed  proprietors  having  retired  to  Catania  to  escape  the  ma- 
laria which  prevails  here.  The  square  tower  of  the  castle,  erected 
above  the  town  by  Roger  I.  in  1073,  is  used  as  a  prison.  Around 
this  stronghold  on  the  hill  lay  the  mediaeval  town ,  where  now  the 
Matrice  and  two  monasteries  alone  stand  (fine  views  of  the  valley). 
Hybla  became  completely  Hellenised  at  so  early  a  period  that  it  was 
the  only  Sikelian  town  which  did  not  participate  in  the  insurrection 
against  the  Greeks  in  450  under  Ducetius.  In  415  the  territory  of  the 
town  was  devastated  by  the  Athenians.  The  ancient  road  between  Catania 
and  Centuripse  passed  by  Hybla.  Two  arches  of  the  bridge  over  the 
Simeto  are  still  standing,  Mtva,  was  ascended  from  this  point  in  ancient 
times.  In  the  Contrada  di  Bella  Cortina,  in  the  direction  of  the  moun- 
tain, remains  of  baths  have  been  discovered.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  Qrotia 
del  Fracasso,  through  which  an  impetuous  subterranean  stream  flows.  To 
the  N.E.  of  Paterno,  on  the  slopes  of  ^tna,  lies  the  town  of  Belpasso 
(8000  inhab.),  destroyed  by  an  eruption  in  1669,  and  subsequently  re-erect- 
ed on  a  new  site  (Mezzocampo).    The  air  here  was  found  to  be  unhealthy, 


336     Route  36.  CATANIA. 

in  consequence  of  which  the  inhabitants  quitted  the  place  and  rebuilt  their 
town  on  its  present  site.  By  making  a  circuit  round  the  Monti  Rossi,  the 
traveller  may  from  this  point  reach  Mcolosi  (p.  346),  whence  ^Etna  is  most 
conveniently  ascended.  —  Near  Paterno  is  a  kind  of  mud-volcano,  named 
Salinella,  the   last  eruption  of  which  took  place  in  1878-9. 

Before  the  descent  is  made  to  Misterbianco,  the  last  town  be- 
fore Catania ,  a  road  diverges  to  the  right  to  the  town  of  Motta  S. 
Anastasia  (p.  302).  From  Motta  the  high-road  may  be  regained 
near  Misterbianco  by  traversing  the  valley  to  the  right.  To  the 
left  before  reaching  the  main  road,  near  Erbe  Blanche,  we  observe 
the  fragments  of  a  Eoman  building,  and  a  few  hundred  feet  farther 
the  remains  of  baths,  called  Damusi. 

56  M.  Misterbianco,  a  town  with  7000  inhah.,  was  destroyed 
in  1669  (railway  to  Catania,  see  p.  333).  To  the  right  rises  the 
Montecardillo,  the  S.E.  crater  of  the  ./Etna  group  ,  overlooking  the 
plain.    Crossing  the  lava-stream  of  1669,  we  now  enter  — 

60  M.  Catania  by  the  Porta  del  Fortino. 

36.  Catania. 

Arrival.  By  Railway.  The  station  (Restaurant,  well  spoken  of)  lies 
N.E.  of  the  town  (PI.  H,  4);  omnibuses  from  the  principal  hotels  are 
waiting,  1  fr. ;  cab,  see  below.  —  By  Steamer.  Landing  (or  embarcation) 
!/2  fr.,  with  luggage  1  fr.  each  person. 

Hotels.  Hotel  Oriental,  Piazza  dei  Martiri  (PI.  G,  5),  at  the  entrance 
of  the  town,  R.  4-6,  L.  1,  A.  1,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  31/2,  D.  5,  wine  from  3, 
pens.  12-15,  omn.  1  fr.;  Alb.  Centkale,  Via  Stesicoro-Etnea,  opposite  the 
university,  R.  &  A.  3i/4  fr.,  L.  60  c,  dej.  2'/2,  D.  4  (both  incl.  wine),  pens, 
incl.  wine  9-10  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  Geande  Bretagne,  Via  Lincoln, 
R.  1V2-3V2,  L.  1/2,  A.  1/2,  dej.  2'/2,  D.  41/2  (both  incl.  wine)    pens.  9,  omn. 

1  fr.;  Hotel  du  Globe  ,  Via  Stesicoro-Etnea  28 ,  R.  IV2-2V2  fr.,  L.  40  c, 
A.  1/2,  B.  IV2,  dej.  3,  D.  41/2,  pens.  10-11,  omn.  1  fr.,  well  spoken  of.  — 
Unpretending  second-class  inns:  Vittoeia,  Roma,  Malta,  etc.,  R.  172-2fr. 
—  Furnished  Apartments  are  advertised  in  many  streets. 

Trattorie.  "Cafe'  Europa,  Via  Stesicoro-Etnea;  Restaur.  Savoy  a,  near 
the  Cathedral,  well  spoken  of;  Villa  Felice,  Piazza  dell'  Universita  and 
ViaLaPiana;  Nuova  Villa  di  Sicilia,  Via  Lincoln  259  (with  good  rooms  to 
let).  —  Villa  Nuova,  to  the  right  in  the  passage  from  the  Piazza  del  Duomo 
to  the  Marina.  —  Cafe.  "Cafi  di  Sicilia,  Piazza  del  Duomo.  —  Beer  at  the 
Trattoria  di  Fil.  Cornigliano ,  Str.  Condurso  19  (diverging  from  the  Corso 
Vitt.  Emanuele)  and  at  the  Fabbrica  di  Birra  e  Gazzosa,  Via  Biscari. 

Cabs.  With  one  horse,  per  drive  for  1-3  pers.  30,  at  night  40  c;  each 
pers.  additional  10  c,  luggage  20  c;  per  hour  1  fr.  30,  or  lfr.  50  c.  With 
two  horses,  per  hour,  2  fr.  30,  at  night  2  fr.  50  c. 

Omnibus  to  Borgo  di  Catania  (on  the  Etna  road),  10  c. 

Reading  Room,  with  Italian  and  a  few  French  newspapers,  Palazzo 
della  Prefettura,  Via  Stesicoro-Etnea,  on  the  left  when  approached  from 
the  university;  strangers  admitted  gratis. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Via  Secondo  S.  Giuliano  (PI.  E,  4),  near  the 
University.  —  Bank:  Banca  di  Depositi  e  Sconti. 

British  Vice-Consul :  Mr.R.  O.Franck. —  XT.  S.  Consul:  Mr. Charles  Heath. 

Railway  to  Messina,  five  trains  daily;  to  Syracuse  three;  to  Canicath 
(Palermo,  Girgenti)  three.  —  Diligence  (until  the  railway  is  opened)  twice 
daily  to  Paternb  and  Adernd ,  starting  from  the  'Rilievo',  a  side-street  of 
the  Str.  Garibaldi ;  a  Vettura  Corriera  also  runs   to  these   places  daily   at 

2  p.m.  —  Steamboat  four  times  a  week  to  Messina ;  twice  a  week  to  Syra- 
cuse (1st  cl.  8  fr.);  once  a  week  to  Athens. 

The  Silk  Stuffs  of  Catania  are  good  and  durable.  —  Good  Crystallized 


gr.Anst-v.  W;»6iur<(  DpIm-s, Leipzig. 


History.  CATANIA.  36.  Route.     337 

Fruits,  especially  oranges  and  lemons,  may  be  purchased  of  Rosario  Amato, 
Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele.  —  Terracotta  Figures  of  Sicilian  peasants,  Sicilian 
Amber,  etc.,  at  Angelo  Leone's,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele. 

Climate  and  Health  (comp.  pp.  231,  232).  The  influence  of  the  snow- 
fields  of  Mt.  iEtna  make  the  winter  temperature  at  Catania  lower  than 
at  Palermo,  but  the  summer-heat  is  on  the  other  hand  much  greater,  so 
that  the  mean  annual  temperature  of  Catania  is  9°  Fahr.  higher  than  that 
of  Palermo.  The  N.E.  wind  is  often  very  cold  in  winter.  The  destruction 
of  the  forests  on  Mt.  iEtna  tends  also  to  make  the  climate  more  variable. 
The  drinking-water  is  generally  good ;  the  mineral  water  of  Paterno  is 
also  extensively  used.  —  Catania  used  to  suffer  terribly  from  the  cholera, 
but  recently  the  sanitary  condition  of  the  town  has  been  excellent.  As  a 
winter-resort  of  invalids  Catania  somewhat  resembles  Palermo ,  but  there 
is  a  great  lack  of  walks  and  of  gardens  for  sitting  in  the  open  air. 

The  town  is  not  attractive  to  tourists.  Most  of  the  antiquities  are 
uninteresting ,  and  the  extensive  theatre  is  so  deeply  buried  in  the  lava 
that  it  is  completely  eclipsed  by  the  noble  similar  structures  at  Taormina 
and  Syracuse.  The  mediseval  buildings  of  Catania  are  also  unimportant. 
The  chief  attraction  is  the  survey  of  ^Etna ,  the  finest  points  of  view 
being  the  tower  of  S.  Nicola  and  the  Villa  Bellini.  (Those  who  do  not 
ascend  Mt.  iEtna  should  at  least  make  an  excursion  to  the  Monti  Rossi, 
p.  346.)  —  The  festivals  of  St.  Agata ,  the  tutelary  saint  of  the  town, 
are  celebrated  with  great  pomp  on  3rd-5th  Feb.  and  18th-21st  Aug.,  vying 
in  splendour  with  those  of  St.  Rosalia  at  Palermo. 

Catania,  which  after  Palermo  is  the  most  populous  city  in  the 
island  (116,000  inhab.),  is  the  seat  of  a  bishop  ,  an  appeal  court, 
and  a  university,  founded  in  1445.  It  is  situated  about  the  middle 
of  the  E.  coast  of  Sicily.  The  harbour  is  at  present  being  improved. 
The  town  carries  on  a  brisk  trade  in  sulphur,  cotton,  wine,  grain, 
linseed,  almonds,  and  the  other  products  of  this  rich  and  extremely 
fertile  district.  The  Accademia  Oioenia  di  Scienze  Naturali,  founded 
in  1823,  has  taken  a  prominent  part  in  promoting  the  scientific 
investigation  of  the  natural  features  and  products  of  Sicily.  The 
wealth  of  the  citizens  ,  and  especially  of  the  resident  noblesse  ,  is 
proved  by  their  perseverance,  notwithstanding  the  disasters  caused 
by  numerous  earthquakes,  in  rebuilding  their  spacious  palaces,  and 
by  the  general  appearance  of  the  town ,  which  is  in  many  respects 
the  cleanest  and  pleasantest  in  Sicily. 

Catana,  founded  by  Chalcidians  about  729,  five  years  after  they  had 
founded  Naxos,  soon  rose  to  prosperity.  Shortly  after  Zaleucus  had  pro- 
mulgated the  first  Hellenic  code  of  laws  among  the  Locroi  Epizephyrioi, 
Gharondas  framed  a  code  for  Catana,  which  was  subsequently  recognised 
as  binding  by  all  the  Sicilian  communities  of  Ionian  and  Chaleidian  ex- 
traction. Tisias,  surnamed  Stesichorus  on  account  of  his  merits  in  per- 
fecting the  chorus  of  the  Greek  drama,  born  at  Himera  on  the  N.  coast  of 
the  island  about  the  year  630,  closed  his  career  at  Catana  at  an  advanced 
age.  His  tomb  is  said  to  have  been  within  the  precincts  of  the  present 
Piazza  Stesicorea.  Catana  suffered  greatly  in  the  wars  of  the  Doric  colonies 
against  the  Chalcidians.  Hiero  I.  took  the  town  in  476  and  transplanted 
the  inhabitants  to  Leontini ,  re-populating  it  with  Syracusans  and  Pelo- 
ponnesians ,  and  changing  its  name  to  dltna.  In  461,  however,  the  new 
intruders  were  expelled  and  the  old  inhabitants  re-instated ,  and  in  the 
Athenian  and  Syracusan  war  Catana  became  the  Athenian  headquarters. 
In  403  Dionysius  conquered  Catana,  reduced  the  inhabitants  to  slavery, 
and  gave  the  town  to  his  Campanian  mercenaries.  After  the  naval 
victory  of  the  Cyclopean  islands  in  396  Catana  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Carthaginians,  and  in  339  was  delivered  by  Timoleon  from  the  tyrant 
Mamercus.     It  was  one  of  the  first  Sicilian   towns  of  which   the  Romans 

Baedekek.    Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  22 


338     Route  36.  CATANIA.  Cathedral. 

took  possession,  and  under  their  sway  became  one  of  the  most  populous 
in  the  island.  Marcellus  undertook  extensive  improvements,  hut  the  town 
sustained  great  damage  during  the  Servile  wars  and  the  civil  war  between 
Se.vtus  Pompeius  and  Octavian.  The  latter  afterwards  introduced  a  new 
colony.  During  the  early  part  of  the  middle  ages  Catania  was  a  place 
of  subordinate  importance.  It  was  wrested  from  the  Goths  by  Belisarius, 
plundered  by  the  Saracens,  conquered  and  strongly  fortified  by  the  Nor- 
mans, but  in  1169  almost  totally  overthrown  by  an  earthquake.  Towards 
the  close  of  that  century  it  declared  in  favour  of  Duke  Tancred,  and  was 
in  consequence  taken  by  the  troops  of  Henry  VI.  under  Henry  of  Kallenthin 
and  razed  to  the  ground.  Again  restored,  and  in  1232  provided  by  Fred- 
erick II.  with  the  fortress  of  Rocea  Orsina  (W.  of  the  harbour),  it  sub- 
sequently flourished  under  the  Aragonese  sovereigns  of  the  14th  cent,  who 
generally  resided  here,  but  owing  to  the  feebleness  of  the  government  was 
exposed  to  numerous  sieges.  In  1445  Alphonso  founded  the  first  Sicilian 
university  here,  and  after  that  date  Catania  was  long  regarded  as  the  literary 
metropolis  of  the  island.  Since  that  period  the  tranquillity  of  the  town 
has  been  uninterrupted,  except  by  the  insignificant  contests  of  April,  1849, 
and  May,  1860;  but  its  progress  has  been  materially  retarded  by  calami- 
tous natural  phenomena.  On  8th  March ,  1669 ,  a  fearful  eruption  of  Mt. 
/Etna  took  place ;  the  Monti  Rossi  were  upheaved,  and  an  arm  of  the  lava- 
stream  (14  II.  in  length  and  25  ft.  in  width)  flowed  in  the  direction  of  the 
town.  The  pious  inhabitants,  however,  averted  its  course  by  extending 
the  veil  of  St.  Agata  towards  it,  in  consequence  of  which  the  stream  took 
a  W.  direction  near  the  Benedictine  monastery  and  descended  into  the  sea 
to  the  S.W.  of  the  town,  partly  filling  up  the  harbour.  An  earthquake  in 
1693,  by  which  the  whole  island  was  affected,  proved  especially  destructive 
to  Catania,  and  the  present  town  has  been  erected  since  that  date. 

Leaving  the  Railway  Station  (PI.  H,  4),  and  before  entering 
the  town,  we  follow  the  street  to  the  left,  leading  to  the  (Y4  M.) 
Piazza  de  Martiri  (PL  G,  5) ,  which  is  adorned  with  a  statue  of 
St.  Agata  on  an  ancient  column. 

The  Coeso  Vittomo  Emanuelb,  starting  from  this  point,  in- 
tersects the  town  to  its  opposite  end ,  upwards  of  1  M.  distant.  In 
10  min.  it  leads  to  the  Piazza  del  Duojio  (PI.  E,  5),  which  is 
embellished  with  a  fountain  with  an  antique  Elephant  in  lava, 
bearing  an  Egyptian  obelisk  of  granite.  The  Elephant  was  perhaps 
anciently  used  as  a  meta  in  an  arena,  but  when  it  was  erected  here 
is  uncertain. 

The  Cathedral  (PL  E,  5),  begun  by  Roger  I.  in  1091,  was 
almost  entirely  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1169.  The  apses 
and  part  of  the  E.  transept  are  now  the  only  remains  of  the 
original  edifice.  The  granite  columns  of  the  facade  are  from  the 
ancient  theatre  ,  from  which  indeed  King  Roger  seems  to  have  ob- 
tained the  whole  of  his  building  materials. 

Around  the  high-altar  are  placed  sarcophagi  of  the  Aragonese  sover- 
eigns. On  the  right,  Frederick  II.  (d.  1337)  and  his  son  John  of  Randazzo; 
King  Louis  (d.  1355) ;  Frederick  III.  (d.  1377) ;  Queen  Maria,  wife  of  Mar- 
tin I.,  and  their  youthful  son  Frederick.  On  the  left,  the  monument  of 
Queen  Constance,  wife  of  Frederick  III.  (d.  1363).  The  chapel  of  St. 
Agata ,  to  the  right  in  the  apse ,  contains  the  relics  of  the  saint,  who 
was  cruelly  put  to  death  in  the  reign  of  Decius  ,  A.D.  252,  by  the  praetor 
Quintianus,  whose  dishonourable  overtures  she  had  rejected.  Her  crown 
is  said  to  have  been  presented  by  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion.  The  silver 
sarcophagus  is  conveyed  through  the  city  during  the  February  festival 
by  men  in  white  robes,  accompanied  by  the  senate.  The  women  on  these 
occasions  cover  their  faces  so  as  to   leave  but  one  eye  visible    and  amuse 


S.  Nicola.  CATANIA.  36.  Route.     339 

themselves  by_  coquetting  with  the  male  population.  —  By  the  second 
pillar  to  the  right  is  the  Monument  of  Bellini,  the  composer,  a  native  of 
Catania  (1802-35);  his  remains  were  brought  from  Paris,  where  he  died  in 
1876.  —  The  Sacristy  (left)  contains  a  fresco  representing  the  eruption  of 
1669,  by  Mignemi. 

The  sacristan  of  the  cathedral  keeps  the  key  of  the  uninteresting 
Roman  Baths  under  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  the  entrance  to  which  adjoins 
the  cathedral  colonnade. 

To  the  S.  of  the  cathedral,  at  the  Fontana  dell'Amenano,  we 
reach  the  Pescheria  (PI.  E,  5),  or  fish-market,  and  thence  pass 
under  a  large  arch  to  the  harbour ,  which  is  skirted  by  the  railway 
viaduct.  A  small  public  garden  here ,  called  the  Villa  Pacini  or 
Flora  della  Marina,  is  adorned  with  a  bust  of  G.  Pacini  (d.  1867), 
the  composer  of  operas,  who  was  born  at  Catania  in  1796.  The 
public  washing-place  is  in  front  of  the  Villa. 

The  Via  Scuto  leads  to  the  W.  from  the  Pescheria  to  the  Castel 
Ursino  (PI.  D,  6),  erected  by  Frederick  II. ,  and  surrounded  by  lava 
in  1669.  —  Thence  we  proceed  by  the  Via  Transito  to  the  Via  Gari- 
baldi, in  which  is  the  Piazza  Mazzini  (PI.  E,  5),  bounded  by  a  colon- 
nade with  32  antique  marble  columns,  discovered  beneath  the  mon- 
astery of  8.  Agostino,  in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele.  Two  similar 
columns  have  been  introduced  beside  the  window  in  the  facade  of 
the  convent  church  (PI.  D,  5).  In  the  same  street,  to  the  right,  lies 
the  Odeum  (see  below).  —  No.  21  in  the  first  cross-street  is  the 
entrance  to  the  ancient  theatre.  (Custodian,  Gius.  Carofratello, 
who  shows  plans  of  the  building,  1  fr. ;  he  also  conducts  visitors 
to  the  other  sights  of  the  town,  2  fr.) 

The  remains  of  this  Graeco-Roman  Theatre  (PI.  D,  4,  5)  are 
chiefly  underground,  and  some  parts  of  it  can  only  be  visited  by 
torch-light,  so  that  it  is  not  easy  to  obtain  a  distinct  idea  of  its 
plan.  The  Roman  structure  (diameter  106  yds.,  orchestra  31  yds.) 
was  erected  on  the  foundations  of  the  Greek.  It  contained  two 
praecinctiones  and  nine  cunei.  It  was  perhaps  here  that  Alcibiades 
harangued  the  assembled  Catanians  in  415,  and  induced  them  to 
league  with  Athens  against  Syracuse.  —  The  adjacent  Odeum, 
44  yds.  in  diameter,  which  is  entirely  of  Roman  origin,  but  after- 
wards much  altered,  and  only  in  partial  preservation,  was  probably 
used  for  the  rehearsals  of  the  players  and  for  musical  performances. 
—  Most  of  the  ruins  discovered  at  Catania  were  excavated  during 
the  last  century  by  Prince  Ignazio  Biscari. 

Following  the  same  street  to  the  W. ,  we  pass  the  church  of 
<S.  Maria  Botonda  (PI.  D,  4),  a  Roman  circular  building.  Behind 
the  high-altar  are  remains  of  an  ancient  edifice  of  lava  and  brick ; 
to  the  left  of  the  exit,  a  Romanesque  holy-water  vessel, 

Farther  on,  the  first  street  diverging  to  the  right  ascends  to  the 
suppressed  Benedictine  monastery  of  S.  Nicola,  or  S.  Benedetto  (PI. 
C,  D,  4).  This  establishment,  which  covers  an  area  of  100,000  sq. 
yds. ,  is  said  to  be  the  most  extensive  of  the  kind  in  Europe 
after  that  of  Mafra  in  Portugal.     The  Church  with  its  unfinished 

22* 


340     Route  36.  CATANIA.  University. 

facade  is  a  grand  baroque  edifice.  The  organ,  by  Donato  del  Piano, 
one  of  the  finest  in  Europe,  possesses  5  key -boards,  72  stops, 
and  2916  pipes.  In  the  transept  is  a  meridian-mark  calculated  in 
1841  by  Sartorius  von  Waltershausen  and  Peters;  the  sacristy  be- 
hind contains  a  painting  by  Novelli :  Tobias  and  the  Angel.  The 
choir  -  stalls  were  carved  by  Nice.  Bagnasco  of  Palermo.  The  tower 
commands  an  extensive  **View  ofMt.  ^Etna,  the  town  of  Catania,  the 
E.  coast  of  Sicily  and  of  Calabria  with  the  Aspromonte  (fee  to 
custodian  1  fr.).  The  monastery  was  formerly  situated  at  S.  Nicola 
d'Arena  ,  near  Nicolosi,  but  was  transferred  to  its  present  site  in 
1518.  In  1669  the  lava-stream  turned  aside  here,  but  in  1693  the 
monastery  was  destroyed  by  the  earthquake.  The  present  edifice 
was  then  erected,  and  has  been  inhabited  since  1735.  All  the  monks 
were  members  of  noble  families.  Since  the  dissolution  of  the  mon- 
astery in  1866  the  magazines  have  been  converted  into  barracks,  and 
the  other  rooms  have  been  fitted  up  for  educational  purposes.  Some 
of  the  rooms  contain  a  Museum  of  natural  curiosities,  antiquities, 
vases,  bronzes,  works  in  marble,  inscriptions,  and  mediaeval  arms, 
and  also  a  few  paintings  by  Antonello  da  Saliba  (1497)  and  others. 
The  library  contains  20,000  vols,  and  300  MSS.  We  enter  the 
gateway  to  the  left  of  the  church,  and  cross  the  court.  The  mon- 
astery contains  two  large  courts,  and  is  bisected  by  double  corridors. 
The  *Garden  at  the  back  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  ^Etna;  the 
entrance  is  to  the  right  of  the  church  (custodian,  see  above). 

A  Roman  Bath,  complete  in  almost  all  its  parts,  lies  under 
the  Carmelite  church  AW  Indirizzo  (PI.  E,  5).  It  consists  of  an  un- 
dressing-room (apodyterium),  a  fire-room  (hypocaustum),  a  tepid  bath 
(tepidarium),  a  steam-bath  (calidarium) ,  and  a  warm  water  bath 
(balneum).  —  In  the  neighbourhood  the  custodian  points  out  an 
interesting  fragment  of  the  ancient  town- wall,  now  partly  covered 
by  a  stream  of  lava.  Below  it  bubbles  up  a  copious  spring,  probably 
issuing  from  the  subterranean  river  Amenanus,  mentioned  by 
Pindar,  which  comes  to  light  just  before  it  falls  into  the  harbour. 

The  Via  Stesicoko-Etnea  (PI.  E,  1-4),  running  from  the  Piazza 
del  Duorno  in  the  direction  of  Mtna.  (N.) ,  leads  first  to  the 
Piazza  delV  Vniversita,  on  the  left  side  of  which  is  the  University 
(PI.  E,  4),  possessing  a  library  of  50,000  vols,  founded  in  1755,  and 
a  fine  collection  of  shells  (in  the  Museo ,  on  the  2nd  floor).  — 
We  next  reach  the  small  Piazza  Quattro  Cantoni,  where  the  Via 
Stesicoro-Etnea  is  crossed  by  the  Strada  Lincoln,  another  of  the 
principal  streets  running  from  E.  to  W.  The  Strada  Lincoln,  which 
crosses  the  lava-stream  of  1669  and  leads  to  the  station,  has  re- 
cently been  levelled  to  meet  the  requirements  of  traffic. 

The  Via  Stesicoro-Etnea  next  leads  to  the  Piazza  Stesicorea 
(PL  E,  3),  the  S.W.  part  of  which  was  once  occupied  by  a  Roman 
Amphitheatre.  This  building,  of  which  there  are  remains  in  the 
Strada  Archebusieri,    was  restored  by  the  sons  of  Constantine,   but 


MOUNT  .ETNA.  37.  Route.     341 

partly  taken  down  during  the  reign  of  Theodoric  in  order  that 
its  materials  might  he  used  in  huilding  the  town-wall.  The  longeT 
diameter  is  38  yds.,  the  shorter  116  yds.  in  length. 

The  Piazza  StesicoTeais  embellished  with  a  Monument  to  Bellini 
(1802-1835) ,  a  native  of  Catania,  erected  in  1882.  The  sitting 
figure  of  the  composer  and  the  figures  on  the  pedestal  representing 
his  chief  operas  (Norma,  Pirata,  La  Somnambula,  I  Puritani)  were 
all  executed  by  Monteverde  of  Rome. 

In  the  vicinity  is  the  church  of  S.  Carcere  (PL  E,  3),  with  an 
interesting  Graeco-Norman  *Portal  of  the  11th  eentury.  The  small 
marble  statue  in  a  sitting  posture  on  the  front  column  on  the  left 
is  said  to  he  that  of  Emp.  Frederick  II.  In  the  interior  is  preserved 
an  impression  of  the  feet  of  St.  Agata  in  marble. 

Beyond  this  point  the  Via  Stesicoro-Etnea  is  uninteresting. 
Near  the  Piazza  del  Borgo  it  takes  the  name  of  Strada  Etnea,  and 
in  this  part  of  the  street  is  situated  the  *Villa  Bellini  (PI.  E,  2), 
which  deserves  a  visit  for  its  tasteful  grounds  and  the  pleasant 
views  they  command.  It  contains  busts  of  Bellini  and  other  famous 
natives  of  Catania ,  of  Cavour  and  others,  and  a  statue  of  Mazzini. 
The  lava  has  in  many  places  been  laid  hare  below  the  walls  of  the 
new  terrace.    Concert  on  three  evenings  weekly  in  summer. 

8.  Maria  di  Oesit  (PL  D,  1),  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town,  contains 
sculptures  by  Gagini.  Near  it  are  remains  of  Roman  tombs. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  from  Catania  to  the  Cyclopean 
Islands  (p.  332);  driving  is  preferable  to  walking,  as  the  road  (6  M.)  is 
dusty. 

37.    Mount  .ffitna. 

The  best  season  for  the  ascent  of  JEtna,  is  the  summer  or  autumn 
(July-Sept.).  In  spring  the  snow  is  a  serious  obstacle ,  and  in  winter 
the  guides  object  to  undertake  the  ascent.  In  spring  only  experienced 
mountaineers  should  attempt  the  ascent,  if  only  because  the  guides  some- 
times prove  quite  unequal  to  the  difficulties  that  arise  (in  any  case  a 
compass  should  not  be  forgotten).  A  moonlight  night  is  always  desirable, 
though  lanterns  may  be  used  in  case  of  need.  As  the  elements  are  very 
capricious  here ,  the  traveller  must  frequently  be  satisfied  with  a  view  oi 
the  crater  only,  which,  however,  alone  repays  the  fatigue.  In  settled 
weather ,  when  the  smoke  ascends  calmly,  and  the  outline  of  the  moun- 
tain is  clear,  a  fine  view  may  with  tolerable  certainty  be  anticipated. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  smoke  is  driven  aside  by  the  wind  which  fre- 
quently prevails  on  the  summit,  the  prospect  is  partly,  ifnotentirelyobscured. 

Guides  and  Mules.  A  Section  of  the  Italian,  Alpine  Club,  by  which 
guides  and  the  various  arrangements  for  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Mtna,  are 
superintended,  is  now  established  at  Catania  (office,  Via  Lincoln  197,  where 
information  is  most  courteously  supplied)).  It  has  granted  certificates  to 
a  number  of  guides,  who  wear  a  badge  with  the  initials  C.  A.  I.  and  a 
number,  and  are  provided  with  a  'libretto  di  approvazione\  Only  these 
guides  should  be  employed ;  and  in  case  of  disputes  travellers  should  apply 
to  the  superintendent  of  guides  (Capo  Cuida,  p.  343)  or  to  the  director  of 
the  Alpine  Club  at  Catania.  There  are  several  places  on  the  skirts  of  Mt. 
JEtns.  where  these  guides  may  be  obtained,  the  chief  of  which  is  at 
Mcolosi  (p.  346),  not  only  for  the  'grande  aseensione'  or  ascent  to  the 
summit,  but  also  for  a  visit  to  the  lava-stream  of  1886.  Others  are  at 
Randazzo  (p.  333),  for  the  craters   of  1874  and  1879,   and    for  the  N.   side 


342    Route  37.  MOUNT  ^ETNA.  Carriages. 

generally;  Biancavilla  (p.  335),  for  the  Monte  Calvario,  the  Grotta  di  Sella, 
and  the  scene  of  the  S.W.  eruption  of  1879. 

The  following  is  the  Tariff  of  the  Alpine  Club  (small  additional 
gratuity  customary). 

Ascent  of  Mt.  jEtna,  and  back,  from  Nicolosi.  Guide  (Ouida)  12  fr. ; 
Apprentice  Ouide  (Allievo-Guida)  9fr.  [The Apprentice  Guides  are  thoroughly 
trustworthy  and  efficient  young  men,  who  have  not  yet  received  a  guide's 
certificate.  They  are,  however,  not  permitted  to  take  part  in  an  ascent 
except  as  the  assistant  of  a  regular  guide.]  The  guides  are  bound  to  carry, 
luggage  to  the  weight  of  1772  lbs.,  or  11  lbs.  if  riding.  Porter  (to  carry 
40  lbs.)  10  fr.  Mule  (burden  not  to  exceed  220  lbs.)  11  fr.  The  Capo  Guida 
decides  how  many  guides  or  mules  must  be  taken;  usually  under  favourable 
circumstances  one  guide  and  one  or  more  allievi  are  sufficient  for  a  party 
of  travellers.  For  the  use  of  an  alpenstock  72fr.;  pair  of  gloves  V'-fr.;  candles 
:/2  fr.  each ;  admission  to  the  Osservatorio  or  Casa  Inglese  costs  8  fr.,  for 
members  of  the  Alpine  Club  or  of  the  C.  A.  I.  4  fr. ;  water  for  the  mules  at 
the  Casa  delBosco,  50c.  each.  —  If  the  traveller  ride,  a  mule  (lOfr.)  must  also 
be  provided  for  the  guide,  which,  however,  can  also  carry  the  provisions, 
wraps,  etc.  No  mule  is  taken  for  an  'Allievo-Guida\  Higher  charges  are 
made  for  the  descent  to  other  places,  or  for  the  ascent  from  Linguaglossa, 
Zafferana,  or  Biancavilla. 

Ascent  to  the  Monti  Rossi  (p.  346).  Guide  3  fr.,  Mule  2  fr.  —  Ascent 
to  the  Monte  Gemellaeo  (p.  346).  Guide  1  fr.,  Mule  5  fr.  —  Round  Mte. 
Gemellaeo.     Guide  8  fr.,  Mule  6  fr. 

Carriages.  The  usual  charge  for  a  two -horse  carriage  to  Nicolosi, 
which  remains  there  during  the  night,  and  conveys  the  traveller  back  to 
Catania  next  day  via,  Trecastagni,  is  25-30  fr.,  with  an  additional  gratuity 
of  3-5  fr.  ('tutto  compreso').  One-horse  carr.  15  fr.  and  2-3  fr.  gratuity.  Those 
who  walk  or  ride  to  Nicolosi  may  engage  a  carriage  for  the  return  only 
(with  one  horse  10,  with  two  15  fr.  and  1-2  fr.  fee).  (Carriage  of  course 
preferable  for  the  return  to  Catania  after  a  fatiguing  ride  of  10-12  hrs., 
although  the  charges  are  exorbitant.) 

Even  in  hot  weather  the  traveller  should  not  fail  to  be  provided  with 
an  overcoat  or  plaid,  as  the  wind  on  the  mountain  is  often  bitterly  cold. 
In  winter  or  spring,  when  the  snow  is  still  unmelted,  a  veil  or  coloured 
spectacles  will  be  found  useful.  Large  spectacles  are  also  advantageous  in 
a  high  wind  as  a  protection  against  the  dust.  In  general  the  equipment 
for  alpine  ascents  suggests  what  is  necessary  here;  warm  gloves,  woollen 
stockings,  and  strong  shoes  are  of  course  indispensable. 

Provisions  for  the  ascent,  including  water,  had  better  be  procured  at 
Nicolosi.  Suitable  baskets ,  containing  strong  coffee  in  bottles ,  wine, 
bread,  cold  meat,  and  salt,  may  be  ordered  at  the  hotels. 

Distances.  From  Catania  to  Nicolosi  by  carriage  in  21/2  hrs.,  returning 
in  l1/.!  hr. ;  on  foot  from  Borgo  di  Catania,  to  which  point  driving  is  ad- 
visable (omnibus  10  c),  in  372,  back  in  2  hrs.  Mule  from  Nicolosi  to  the 
Casa  del  Bosco  3-372  hrs.,  thence  to  the  Osservatorio  4-5  hrs. ;  on  foot  from 
Nicolosi  (not  advisable)  7-8  hrs.  (halts  not  included).  From  the  Osservatorio 
to  the  crater,  on  foot  only,  in  IV4-IV2  nr-  i  bait  on  the  summit  and  descent 
to  the  Osservatorio  2-272  hrs.;  thence  to  Nicolosi  4-5  hrs. 

Flan  of  Excursion.  In  winter  or  spring  travellers  are  advised  to  drive 
in  the  afternoon  from  Catania  to  Nicolosi,  so  as  to  have  the  entire  night 
for  the  ascent.  Mules  are  taken  only  to  the  snow -line,  generally  indeed 
only  to  the  Casa  del  Bosco.  The  observatory  is  closed  at  this  season. 
The  summit  should  be  quitted  for  the  return  before  the  sun  has  melted 
the  snow  too  much.  —  In  summer  and  autumn  the  ascent  is  usually  made 
as  follows:  —  Drive  from  Catania  to  Nicolosi  in  the  morning,  breakfast, 
and  start  again  at  10  a.m.,  reaching  the  Casa  del  Bosco  at  1.30  p.m.;  rest 
here  for  1  hr.,  and  then  -ascend  to  the  Osservatorio,  where  the  guides 
usually  prepare  soup  (brodo ,  Eng.  broth)  from  meat  brought  for  the 
purpose.  Several  hours  of  repose  are  enjoyed  here,  the  ascent  not  being 
resumed  till  2  or  2.30  a.m.,  and  the  summit  is  gained  at  3.15  or  3.45  a.m. 
—  The  guides  should  be  required  to  observe  punctually  the  prescribed 
hours    01    starting  ,    in  order  that  the  traveller  may  neither  arrive  too  late 


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Vegetation.  MOUNT  ./ETNA.  37.  Route.     343 

at  the  Osservatorio  nor  be  surprised  by  the  sunrise  before  reacliirm  the 
top.  Those_  who  pass  the  night  in  Nicolosi  may  begin  the  ascent  about 
8  a.m.  It  is  hardly  advisable  to  start  from  Nicolosi  in  the  afternoon, 
and  make  part  of  the  ascent  during  the  night. 

An  excellent  map  of  ^Etna  and  its  environs  was  published  by  Sartoriiis 
von  Waltershausen  in  1848-59  ^JEtna\  Gottingen  and  Weimar;  2nd  edit.,  by 
Lasaulx,  Leipzig,  1880). 

Mount  .ffitna  (10,835  ft. J,  Italian  Etna  and  Sicilian  Mongibello 
(from  'monte'  and  'jebel',  the  Arabic  for  mountain),  commonly  called 
'it  Monte',  is  the  loftiest  volcano  in  Europe,  as  well  as  the  highest 
mountain  in  Italy.  There  are  three  different  zones  of  vegetation  on 
the  slopes  of  jEtna.  The  first  extends  beyond  Nicolosi,  called  the 
Piemontese  or  Coltivata,  and  yielding  the  usual  Sicilian  products. 
Up  to  a  height  of  1600  ft.  grow  large  groves  of  oranges  and  lemons  ; 
higher  up  the  vine  predominates,  being  occasionally  seen  at  a 
height  of  3600  ft.  The  next  zone  is  the  Boscosa  or  Nemorosa, 
extending  to  6900  ft.  and  subdivided  into  two  regions.  The  lower 
of  these  (2200-4200  ft.)  is  clothed  chiefly  with  oaks  and  chestnuts, 
above  which  are  copper-beeches  (Fagus  silvatica)  and  birches 
(Betula  alba  and  Betula  Etnensis).  On  the  N.E.  side,  at  a  height 
of  6700  ft.,  are  extensive  forests  of  Laricio  pines  (Pinus  Laricio, 
Sicil.  zappinu),  the  only  lofty  coniferous  trees  among  the  forests 
of  Mt.  iEtna.  In  the  highest  zone,  the  Regione  Deserta,  from 
6900  ft.  to  the  summit,  the  vegetation  is  of  a  most  stunted  descrip- 
tion. Even  at  a  height  of  6200  ft.  the  beeches  become  dwarfed. 
Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  water  and  the  frequent  changes  in  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil  no  Alpine  flora  can  exist  here,  but  there  is  a  narrow 
zone  of  sub-Alpine  shrubs,  most  of  which  occur  also  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  wooded  region.  About  forty  species  of  plants  only  are 
found  here,  among  which  are  the  barberry,  juniper,  Viola  gracilis, 
and  Saponaria  depressa.  Within  the  last  2000  ft.  five  phanerogam- 
ous species  only  flourish :  Senecio  Etnensis,  Anthemis  Etnensis, 
Robertsia  taraxacoides  (these  three  peculiar  to  ./Etna),  Tanacetum 
vulgare,  and  Astragalus  Siculus,  which  last  grows  in  tufts  of  3-4  ft. 
in  diameter.  The  Senecio  Etnensis  is  found  as  high  as  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  crater,  several  hundred  feet  above  the  Osservatorio. 
Not  a  trace  of  animal  life  can  be  detected  on  the  higher  portion 
oi  the  mountain.  The  black  silent  waste,  glittering  in  the  sun- 
shine, produces  an  impression  seldom  forgotten  by  those  who  have 
witnessed  it.  On  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountain,  wolves,  as 
well  as  hares,  rabbits,  and  a  few  wild  boars,  are  the  usual  ob- 
jects of  the  chase.  .(Etna  is  clothed  with  fourteen  different 
forests,  which,  however,  present  no  definite  line  of  demarcation. 
Ferns  (especially  the  Pteris  aquilina)  frequently  take  the  place 
of  underwood.  The  densest  forests  are  the  Boschi  delta  Cerrila 
and  di  Linguaglossa  on  the  N.E.  side,  which,  however,  suffered 
greatly  from  the  eruption  of  1865.  As  lately  as  the  16th  cent, 
impenetrable  forests  extended  from  the  summit  down  to  the 
vallly  of  the  Alcantara,  and  Cardinal  Bembo  extols  the  beauty  of 


344    Route  37.  MOUNT  .ETNA.  Eruptions. 

the  groves  of  plane-trees.  About  the  beginning  of  last  century  up- 
wards of  one-third  of  the  E.  coast  of  Sicily  was  still  overgrown 
with  forest. 

Eruptions.  ^Etna  has  been  known  as  a  volcano  from  the 
earliest  ages.  At  one  time  the  mountain  has  been  represented  as 
the  prison  of  the  giant  Enceladus  or  Typhosus,  at  another  as  the 
forge  of  Vulcan.  It  is,  however,  remarkable  that  the  Greek  mar- 
iners' traditions  in  Homer  do  not  allude  to  its  volcanic  character. 
Pindar,  on  the  other  hand,  describes  an  eruption  of  B.C.  476,  and  a 
violent  outbreak  in  prehistoric  times  made  the  Sicanians  abandon 
the  district.  About  eighty  eruptions  fall  within  the  limits  of  history. 
The  most  violent  were  those  of  B.C.  396,  126,  and  122,  and  A.D. 
1169,  1329,  1537,  and  1669.  The  last  of  these,  one  of  the  most 
stupendous  of  all,  has  been  described  by  the  naturalist  Borelli. 
On  that  occasion  the  Monti  Rossi  were  formed,  27,000  persons 
were  deprived  of  all  shelter,  and  many  lives  were  lost  in  the 
rapidly  descending  streams  of  lava.  In  1693  an  eruption  was 
accompanied  by  a  fearful  earthquake,  which  partially  or  totally 
destroyed  forty  towns,  and  caused  a  loss  of  60-100,000  lives.  An 
eruption  took  place  in  1755,  the  year  of  the  earthquake  at 
Lisbon,  and  others  in  1766  and  1792.  The  last  has  been  described 
by  Ferrara.  In  the  present  century  there  have  been  nineteen  erup- 
tions, an  average  of  one  every  four  or  five  years.  The  most  violent 
were  those  of  1812,  1819,  1843,  1852,  and  1865.  The  first  of 
these  lasted  six  weeks  and  the  second  two  months ;  the  three  last- 
mentioned  were  especially  active  at  Bronte,  Zafferana,  and  at  the 
foot  of  Mte.  Frumento  to  the  N.E.  of  the  principal  crater  respect- 
ively. The  eruption  of  1865  was  accompanied  by  an  earthquake 
which  destroyed  the  village  of  La  Macchia.  JEtna,  has  again  been  in 
eruption  in  1868,  1869,  1874,  1879,  1883,  1886,  and  1892. 

The  most  violent  recent  eruptions  were  those  of  1879  and  1886. 
The  former  (26th  May  to  6th  June,  1879)  occurred  on  the  N.  slope,  and 
was  accompanied  by  the  unusual  phenomenon  of  a  simultaneous  out- 
break of  lava  on  the  W.S.W.  of  the  crater,  which,  however,  ceased 
flowing  at  a  height  of  6500  ft.  On  the  N.N.E.  side  the  lava  first 
appeared  in  the  crater  of  1874,  near  Monte  Grigio.  Here,  at  a  height 
of  4705  ft.  above  the  sea,  it  formed  a  new  crater,  which  Prof. 
Silvestri,  who  witnessed  its  formation,  has  named  Monte  Umberto- 
Margherita.  The  lava  poured  forth  in  large  masses  from  an  opening 
at  the  foot  of  this  elevation.  Its  descent  was  at  first  at  the  rate  of 
about  15  ft.  per  minute,  afterwards  3-6  ft.  per  minute,  and  finally 
30-40  ft.  per  hour.  In  its  course  it  devastated  a  large  tract  of  culti- 
vated ground  (valued  at  upwards  of  20,000Z.),  crossed  the  road 
from  Linguaglossa  to  Randazzo  (p.  334),  and  did  not  cease  to  flow 
till  it  had  almost  reached  the  river  Alcantara.  The  superficial  area 
of  this  stream  of  lava  amounts  to  2,720,000  sq.  yds.,  while  that 
on  the  S.W.  side  covers  135,000  sq.  yds.   only. 


Eruptions.  MOUNT  JSTNA.  37.  Route.     345 

-  The  eruption  of  1886  was  threatened  since  1883.  On  22nd  March 
of  that  year,  earthquakes  and  loud  reports  were  followed  by  the 
formation  of  a  fissure  on  the  S.  side  of  the  mountain,  to  the  E.  of 
Monte  Concilio  (marked  'Co'  on  our  map).  No  farther  effects  were 
observed,  and  although  Prof.  Silvestri  prophesied  another  outbreak 
on  the  same  spot,  the  volcano  remained  comparatively  quiescent 
for  three  years.  On  18th  May  1886,  however,  the  large  central 
crater  resumed  activity  and  emitted  dense  clouds  of  steam  and 
showers  of  ashes.  Early  the  next  morning  a  violent  earthquake 
was  felt  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  mountain,  and  a  new  crater,  about 
4650  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  was  formed  to  the  N.E.  of  Monte  Con- 
cilio, about  il/i  M.  above  Nicolosi,  from  the  summit  of  which 
steam ,  molten  stone,  and  ashes  were  hurled ,  amid  crashes  and 
reports  like  thunder.  From  the  S.  base  of  this  new  hill,  now  known 
as  Monte  Oemellaro  ('Ge'  on  our  map),  molten  lava  poured  down 
the  mountain,  at  the  rate  of  160-190  ft.  per  hour.  The  fury  of  the 
eruption  reached  its  height  on  21st  May.  The  lava  continued  to  flow 
in  the  direction  of  Nicolosi,  the  terror-stricken  inhabitants  of  which 
bore  the  pictures  of  the  saints  from  the  churches  in  a  supplicatory 
procession  to  the  so-called  Altarelli,  a  building  dedicated  to  the 
patron-saints  of  the  village,  and  situated  about  1  M.  above  it  on  a 
small  eminence.  On  the  evening  of  the  24th,  the  bishop  of  Catania 
solemnly  displayed  the  Veil  of  St.  Agata.  Three  days  later  the 
lava -stream  reached  the  Altarelli,  but  divided  at  the  eminence 
and  gradually  slackened  its  speed.  Another  stream ,  however,  on 
the  E.  side  of  Monte  Rosso,  made  straight  for  Nicolosi.  At  midday 
on  31st  May,  the  prefect  ordered  the  village  to  be  evacuated,  and 
guarded  the  approach  to  it  with  soldiers.  On  3rd  June,  how- 
ever, the  lava  ceased  flowing,  within  370  yds.  of  the  first  hou- 
ses, and  next  day  the  eruption  ended  with  another  earthquake. 
This  eruption,  though  one  of  the  most  violent  of  the  century,  was 
less  important  than  those  of  1865,  1852,  and  1843.  The  length  of 
the  lava-stream  is  about  4  M.,  it  covers  an  area  of  more  than  1000 
acres  and  destroyed  vineyards  and  cultivated  lands  to  the  value  of 
50,0002.  An  eruption  of  some  violence  occurred  in  July-Sept.  1892. 
**Ascbnt.  We  quit  Catania  by  the  long  Strada  Etnea,  and  pass 
a  long  succession  of  country-residences.  If  time  permits,  the  tra- 
veller should  visit  the  park  of  the  Marchese  S.  Giuliano,  at  Licatia, 
a  little  to  the  right  of  the  road.  By  the  Barriera  the  road  divides, 
that  to  Nicolosi  leading  to  the  left,  between  the  two  obelisks. 
The  ascent  becomes  more  rapid;  Qravina  is  passed,  then  Mas- 
calueia  (3000  inhab.),  and  farther  on  Torre  di  Orifo  [Torrelifo, 
1750  ft.).  Between  this  and  Nicolosi  we  traverse  the  barren  sur- 
face of  the  lava-stream  of  1537.  The  rounded  and  at  places  tree- 
like bushes  of  broom  (Genista  Etnensis)here  form  a  peculiar  feature 
in  the  scene.  To  the  right  of  the  road,  about  */2  M.  from  Nicolosi, 
is  the  crater  called  the  Orotta  del  Bove,  which  may  be  visited  in 


346     Route  37.  MOUNT  .ETNA.  Ascent. 

passing  (no  path,  through  a  doorway  in  a  wall).    To  the  left  tower 
the  reddish  cones  of  the  Monti  Rossi  (see  below). 

Nicolosi  (2265  ft. ;  *H6tel  dell'  Etna,  kept  by  Mazzaglia,  mod- 
erate, basket  of  provisions  for  li/2  day,   7  fr.  each  person  ;  Alb.  fy 
Trattoria  Liotta,  well  spoken  of,  tariff-prices),  a  village  with  2700 
inhab.,  9  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Catania,  is  the  usual  starting-pointfor 
an  ascent  of  Mt.  .Etna.     The  traveller  should  at  once  apply  to  the 
'Capo-Guida',  in  the  Vfficio  delle  Guide,   and  make  the  needful 
arrangements  with  him    (comp.  p.  341).     Those  who  intend  to 
sleep  at  Nicolosi  should  arrive  in  time  to  make  an  excursion  to 
the  Monti  Rossi,  the  so-called  Fratelli  (3110  ft.,  in  2-3  hrs.,  there 
and  back;   guide,  not  indispensable  for  experts,  see  p.  342)  the 
same  afternoon.  Beyond  Nicolosi  we  skirt  the  cemetery  to  the  right, 
after  a  few  min.  enter  a  garden  on  the  right,  climb  the  low  lava-wall, 
and  ascend,  at  first  in  the  depression  between  the  peaks ,  to  the 
summit  on  the  left.  The  top  commands  a  fine  view,  especially  of  the 
lava-field  of  1886.  — A  visit  to  the  Monte  Oemellaro  (p.  345)  requires 
nearly  a  day.  The  best  route  passes  the  Monte  Arso,  where  there  is 
a  cistern  containing  water  in  the  house  of  Sign.  Auteri.  To  the  foot 
of  the  crater,  a  ride  of  5  hrs. ;  the  cone  must  be  ascended  on  foot. 
On  the  way  to  .Etna  we  pass  the  country-houses  of  Sign.  Bruno 
and  Sign.  Bonanno,   skirt  the  Monti  Rossi  to  the  W. ,  and  then 
cross  part  of  the  lava-stream  of  1886.    In  3-3'/2  nrs>  we  reach  the 
Casa  del  Bosco  (4215  ft.),  at  the  W.  base  of  the  Monte  Rinazzi. 
Near  it   good  drinking-water   is  to   be  had,   of  which  the  guides 
carry   away  a  supply.      In  the  vicinity  are   several  other  houses, 
including  one  belonging  to  the  Duke  Alba  in  a  chestnut -plant- 
ation.   The  path  winds  through  a  hollow  between  smaller  extinct 
volcanoes ,    until ,    about   6900  ft.    above  the  sea ,   it  enters   the 
Regione  Deserta.    The  ascent  is  at  first  gradual.    To  the  right  is 
seen  the  Montagnuola  (8670  ft.),   the  W.  extremity  of  the  Serra 
del  Solfizio,  below  which  to  the  S.  are  hollows  filled  with  snow. 
To   the   N.    this   ridge    descends   perpendicularly   to    a    depth   of 
2-3000  ft.    to   the  Valle   del   Bove ,    round   which  the    traveller 
proceeds  by   the  Piano   del  Lago ,    after   a  short  but   precipitous 
part  of  the   ascent.     As  we  approach  the  Osservatorio   (or  Casa 
Inglese  ,•  9600  ft.),  the  mules  begin  to  show  signs  of  fatigue  and 
impatience  to  reach  their  destination.    This  house,  which  is  almost 
indispensable  to  the  climber  of  .Etna,    was   erected  by   order  of 
several  English   officers   at   the  beginning  of  the  century  during 
the  occupation  of  Sicily.    After  having  stood  for  fifty  years,  during 
which  it  had  been  maintained  chiefly  by  the  brothers   Gemellaro 
of  Nicolosi,  the  hut  was  repaired  in  1862,   and  more  recently  it 
was  improved  and   enlarged   by  the  Italian  Alpine  Club.     Com- 
plaints, however,  have  been  made  of  the  want  of  cleanliness.     The 
Observatory,  for    astronomical    and    meteorological    purposes,    was 
opened  in  1887  and  is  under  the  superintendence  of  Prof.  Tacchini. 


Crater.  MOUNT  ^ETNA.  37.  Route.     347 

We  now  begin  the  ascent  of  the  6rater,  the  most  laborious  portion 
of  the  expedition.  The  height  appears  inconsiderable,  but  nearly 
1000  ft.  have  still  to  be  ascended.  The  walking  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  cone,  on  ashes  yielding  at  every  step,  is  uncomfortable. 
When  the  firm  rock  is  reached,  the  ascent  becomes  easier. 

In  1  hr.  we  attain  the  brink  of  the  Crater,  the  form  of 
which  undergoes  constant  alteration.  At  one  time  it  consists  of 
a  single  profound  abyss,  '2-3  M.  in  circumference,  at  another  it 
is  divided  by  a  barrier  into  two  parts,  one  of  which  only  emits 
smoke.  The  summit  itself  is  usually  altered  by  every  eruption. 
In  1861,  it  was  on  the  E.  side,  in  1864  on  the  W.,  and  even 
ancient  writers  expressed  their  belief  that  the  crater  sank  to  some 
extent  after  every  eruption. 

After  a  short  pause  the  highest  peak  (10,835  ft.)  is  easily  ascend- 
ed, as  the  surface  is  soft.  From  this  spot  the  Sunrise,  a  spectacle 
of  indescribable  grandeur,  should  be  witnessed.  The  summit  is 
illumined  by  the  morning  twilight  whilst  all  below  is  enveloped 
in  profound  obscurity.  The  sun  still  reposes  in  the  sea,  which 
occasionally  presents  the  appearance  of  a  lofty  bank  of  clouds, 
the  horizon  being  considerably  more  elevated  than  the  spectator 
would  expect.  For  some  time  purple  clouds  have  indicated 
the  point  where  the  sun  is  about  to  appear.  Suddenly  a  ray 
of  light  flits  across  the  surface  of  the  water,  gradually  changing 
to  a  golden  streak ,  the  lower  part  of  which  shimmers  in 
an  intense  purple  as  it  widens.  The  beaming  disc  then  slowly 
emerges.  The  mountains  of  Calabria  still  cast  their  long  shadows 
on  the  sea;  the  top  of  jEtna  alone  is  bathed  in  sunshine.  The 
light  gradually  descends  to  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountain, 
and  the  dark  violet  shadow  which  the  vast  pyramid  casts  over  Sicily 
to  the  W.  deepens.  The  outlines  of  the  cone  and  its  summit  are 
distinctly  recognised,  forming  a  colossal  isosceles  triangle  on  the 
surface  of  the  island.  After  !/4  hr.  the  sublime  spectacle  is 
over,  and  the  flood  of  light  destroys  the  effeot  produced  by  the 
shadows.  The  deep  valleys  and  the  precipitous  coast  alone  remain 
for  a  time  in  obscurity,  being  shaded  by  the  loftier  mountains. 
As  the  sun  continues  to  ascend,  new  points  become  visible. 
The  spectator  stands  at  the  centre  of  a  vast  circle  of  260  M.  in 
diameter  and  800  M.  in  circumference.  Towards  the  N.E.  is  the 
peninsula  of  Calabria,  above  which  masses  of  clouds  frequently 
hover  on  the  N.,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  an  island.  The  Faro 
of  Messina  (the  town  not  visible)  lies  at  our  feet,  the  Neptunian 
Mts.  appear  like  insignificant  hills ,  and  the  Nebrode  only  a 
degree  higher.  The  Pizzo  di  Palermo,  the  highest  point  of  the 
Madonie  range  to  the  W.N.W.,  and  the  Pizzo  of  Corleone  and 
Cammarata  to  the  W-  are  the  only  conspicuous  points.  In 
winter,  when  the  atmosphere  is  unusually  clear,  the  motion  of 
the  waves  on  the  shores  of  the  island  is  said  to  be  distinguish- 


348     Route  37.  MOUNT  jETNA.  Valle  del  Bove. 

able.  The  coast  of  Africa,  being  below  the  horizon,  cannot 
possibly  be  visible,  notwithstanding  the  assurances  of  the  guides. 
Malta,  however,  may  be  distinguished.  The  greater  part  of  the  E. 
coast  of  the  island  is  visible ;  the  Lipari  islands  appear  to  greet 
their  majestic  sovereign  with  their  columns  of  smoke ;  the  pro- 
montory of  Milazzo  extends  far  into  the  sea ;  and  numerous  other 
points,  whioh  cannot  be  enumerated,  are  descried. 

After  a  walk  round  the  crater  (which,  however,  is  rendered 
impracticable  by  the  smoke  in  a  high  wind,  comp.  p.  341),  we 
descend  rapidly  to  the  Osservatorio  and  remount  our  mules.  In 
descending,  we  make  a  slight  digression  towards  the  E.  in  order  to 
approach  the  upper  margin  of  the  Valle  del  Bove,  a  black,  desolate 
gulf,  3  M.  in  width,  bounded  on  three  sides  by  perpendicular  cliffs, 
2000-4000  ft.  in  height  (left  Serra  delle  Concazze,  right  Serra  del 
Solfizio),  and  opening  towards  the  E.  only.  Geologically  this  basin 
is  the  most  remarkable  part  of  ^Etna,  as  its  S.W.  angle,  the  so- 
called  Balzo  di  Trifoglietto,  where  the  descent  is  steepest  and  most 
precipitous,  was  very  probably  the  original  crater  of  the  mountain. 
—  The  traveller  should  not  omit  to  direct  the  guides  to  conduct 
him  to  the  two  regular  cones  whence  an  eruption  in  1852  proceeded. 

Geologists  may  make  the  fatiguing  descent  to  Zafferana  (poor  accom- 
modation at  Francesca  Barbara's)  in  order  to  view  the  immense  lava-streams 
(see  p.  344)  in  the  Valle  del  Bove;  a  visit  there  and  back  from  Catania 
takes  I1/2  day. 

From  the  upper  margin  of  the  Valle  del  Bove  we  ride  to 
the  Torre  del  Filosofo  (9570  ft.),  the  traditional  observatory  of 
Empedocles ,  who  is  said  to  have  sought  a  voluntary  death  in 
the  crater.  According  to  others  it  was  used  as  a  watch-tower 
in  ancient  times.  As  the  building  is  obviously  of  Roman  con- 
struction, it  was  possibly  erected  on  the  occasion  of  the  Emperor 
Hadrian's  ascent  of  the  mountain  to  witness  the  sunrise.  The 
descent  now  recommences;  the  steeper  portions  are  more  easily  and 
safely  traversed  on  foot.  Before  reaching  the  plain  of  Nicolosi,  we 
see  the  convent  of  S.  Nicola  d' Arena  to  the  left,  where  the  Ben- 
edictines of  Catania  used  to  celebrate  their  vintage-festival.  It  was 
founded  in  1156  by  Simon,  Count  of  Policastro,  nephew  of  Roger  I. 

Instead  of  returning  to  Catania,  the  traveller  may  prefer  to 
proceed  from  Nicolosi  via,  Pedara  and  Viagrande  to  Acireale,  (p.  332), 
and  thence  by  the  high-road  to  Qiardini  (p.  326). 

38.    From  Catania  to  Syracuse. 

54  M.  Railway,  three  trains  daily  in  31/4  hrs.  ( fares  9  fr.  85,  6  fr. 
90,  4  fr.  45  c).  —  Steamboat  twice  weekly  in  4  hrs. ;  from  Syracuse  to 
Malta,  see  p.  376. 

The  railway  intersects  the  Piano  di  Catania,  the  Campi  Lae- 
.ilrygonii,  which  Cicero  extols  as  the  'uberrima  pars  Sicilies', 
and  which  are  still  regarded  as  the  granary  of  the  island.  To  the 
right  lies  the  town  of  Misterbianco  (p.  336). 


LENTINI.  38.  Route.     349 

5  M.  Bicocca,  junction  for  Girgenti  and  Palermo  (R.  29).  10 M. 
Passo  Martino.  The  train  crosses  the  Simeto  (Symaethus),  and  beyond 
it  the  Gurnalunga.  Lower  down,  these  streams  unite  to  form  the 
Giarretta.  In  winter  the  whole  plain  is  frequently  under  water, 
and  the  high-road  impassable.  Malaria  prevails  in  the  lower  parts 
in  summer.  The  railway  traverses  the  hilly  ground.  Tunnel.  15  M. 
Valsavoia. 

A  Bkanch  Railway  runs  hence  to  Scordia,  &>l/2  M.,  in  40  min.  (fares 
1  fr.  60,  1  fr.  15,  75  c).  6  M.  Leone,  from  which  a  diligence  plies  to  Calta- 
girone  (p.  302).    8'/2  M.  Scordia  is  noted  for  its  fine  oranges. 

The  train  now  approaches  the  Lago  di  Lentini,  frequented  by 
innumerable  waterfowl  in  winter.  This  lake,  the  largest  in  Sicily, 
did  not  exist  in  ancient  times.  It  is  usually  swollen  in  winter, 
while  in  summer  its  exhalations  poison  the  atmosphere  (Lentini  is 
therefore  to  be  avoided  as  a  sleeping-place).  Its  circumference 
varies  from  9l/2  t0  12y2  M.,  according  to  the  height  of  the  water. 

18  M.  Lentini.    The  town  is  about  3  M.  from  the  station. 

Lentini  (Albergo  Centrale,  with  trattoria,  well  spoken  of),  a  town  with 
11,000  inhab.,  the  ancient  Leontinoi,  one  of  the  earliest  Greek  settlements  in 
Sicily,  was  founded  in  B.C.  729  by  colonists  from  Naxos  under  Theocles,  sim- 
ultaneously with  Catana.  A  century  later  the  transition  from  oligarchy  to 
democracy  was  succeeded  by  the  establishment  of  a  tyranny  by  Panaetius, 
who  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  tyrant  in  Sicily.  After  another  century 
the  town  succumbed  to  Hippocrates,  tyrant  of  Gela,  and  thus  became  subject 
to  the  tyrants  Gelon,  Hiero,  and  Thrasybulus  of  Syracuse.  It'  afterwards 
regained  its  independence,  but  was  again  subdued  by  Syracuse,  and  to  some 
extent  gave  rise  to  the  war  with  Athens.  Gorgias,  the  great  orator  and  sophist, 
was  a  native  of  Leontinoi  (480-380),  and  it  was  by  his  persuasive  eloquence, 
as  is  well  known,  that  the  Athenians  were  induced  to  intervene  in  the 
quarrels  of  the  Sicilians.  After  the  disastrous  issue  of  the  war,  Leontinoi 
continued  subject  to  Syracuse ;  but  Timoleon  at  length  expelled  the  tyrant 
Hicetas  and  restored  its  independence.  In  the  3rd  cent,  it  came  into 
the  power  of  Hiero  II.,  whose  successor  Hieronymus  lost  his  life  here. 
Polybius,  who  records  this  event,  at  the  same  time  describes  the  situation 
of  the  town.  It  appears  to  have  lain  to  the  S.W.  of  the  present  town, 
and  not  where  topographers  usually  place  it.  Under  the  Romans  it  was 
of  little  importance.  The  Saracens  gained  possession  of  it  at  an  early 
period.  In  the  middle  ages  the  fortress  was  besieged  several  times,  and 
bravely  defended.  The  town  and  castle  were  almost  totally  destroyed  by 
the  earthquake  of  1693. 

A  road  ascends  in  long  windings  from  Lentini  to  Carlenlini,  a  poor 
town  with  5500  inhab.,  founded  by  Charles  V.  (whence  the  name). 

From  Lentini,  or  from  Augusta,  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  tomb-ca- 
verns of  Pantalica,  to  the  N.  of  Palazzolo  (p.  306) ;  carriage  there  and  back 
in  one  day  25  fr. 

The  train  now  turns  to  the  E.  towards  the  coast,  following  the 
valley  of  the  8.  Leonardo  (the  Terias  of  the  ancients),  which  it 
afterwards  crosses.  This  river,  now  an  insignificant  stream  in 
a  shallow  valley  bounded  by  limestone  hills,  was  down  to  the 
12th  cent,  navigable  for  sea-going  vessels  as  far  as  Lentini. 

24  M.  Agnone.  To  the  left  the  so-called  Pantano,  a  marshy 
pond,  becomes  visible.  31  M.  Brucoli.  The  line  skirts  the  lofty  coast. 
Large  salt-works  are  passed.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Porcari  (the  an- 
cient Pantacyas), s.which  here  breaks  its  way  through  the  hills,  lay 
Trotilon,  one  of  the  earliest  Greek  settlements  in  Sicily. 


350     Route  38.  AUGUSTA. 

351/2  M.  Augusta,  a  fortified  seaport  with  11,900  inhab.,  was 
founded  by  Frederick  II.  in  1232,  and  peopled  with  the  inhabitants 
of  Oenturipe  (p.  301),  which  was  destroyed  in  1233.  It  occupies 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Xiphonia.  The  town  was  conquered  and 
destroyed  several  times  in  the  middle  ages.  In  1676  it  was  taken  by 
.the  French,  and  Duquesne  here  defeated  De  Ruyter,  who  died  of  his 
wounds  at  Syracuse  (see  p.  354).  In  1693  the  town  was  severely 
damaged  by  the  earthquake. 

The  railway  follows  the  coast.  The  Megarean  Bay  of  antiquity, 
extending  from  the  Capo  S.  Croce,  E.  of  Augusta,  to  the  Capo  S.  Pa- 
nagia  near  Syracuse,  was  formerly  bordered  with  a  number  of  towns. 
Here  from  N.  to  S.  lay  Xiphonia,  Megara  Hyblaea,  and  Alabon.  Me- 
gara  Hyblaea,  which  was  situated  between  the  mouths  of  the  Alcan- 
tara and  S.  Ousmano,  was  founded  in  728  by  colonists  from  Megara 
near  Athens,  conquered  and  destroyed  by  Gelon,  but  re-erected  af- 
ter the  Athenian  and  Syracusan  war  as  an  outlying  fort  of  Syracuse. 

39  M.  Lumidoro.  On  the  hills  to  the  right  lies  the  small  town 
of  Melilli,  where  the  Hyblaean  honey,  so  highly  extolled  by  the  poets, 
was  produced.  On  1st  and  2nd  May  a  vast  concourse  of  people  as- 
sembles at  Melilli  to  offer  thanks  to  St.  Sebastian  for  the  miraculous 
cures  effected  by  him,  and  to  celebrate  his  festival. 

44  M.  Priolo;  the  village  lies  to  the  right.  To  the  left  is 
the  peninsula  of  Magnisi,  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  narrow 
isthmus.  This  was  the  peninsula  of  Thapsus,  well  known  in 
connection  with  the  Athenian  campaign.  The  Athenian  fleet  lay  to 
the  N.  of  the  isthmus.    Salt-works  are  now  situated  here. 

About  IV2  M.  from  Priolo  stands  the  'Torre  del  Marcello\  probably 
the  remains  of  a  tomb,  but  commonly  reputed  to  be  a  trophy  erected  here 
by  Marcellus  on  the  site  of  his  camp  after  the  conquest  of  Syracuse. 

The  train  now  skirts  the  Trogilus,  the  bay  where  the  fleet 
of  Marcellus  lay,  and  approaches  the  terrace  which  extended  from 
the  Belvedere  to  Capo  S.  Panagia  and  bore  the  N.  Dionysian  town- 
wall  of  the  Achradina.  It  crosses  the  wall  near  the  Tyche  quarter 
of  the  town,  runs  eastwards  to  Capo  S.  Panagia,  and  finally  skirts 
the  precipitous  E.  margin  of  the  bare,  rocky  plateau.  50  M.  S.  Pa- 
nagia. Passing  the  (r.)  Capuchin  Monastery  with  its  Latomia,  we 
at  length  reach  — 

54  M.  Stat.  Siracusa,  3/4  M.  from  the  town  (one-horse  carriage 
90  c,  two-horse  1  fr.  20  c. ;  at  night  1  fr.  40  or  1  fr.  70  c). 


39.    Syracuse. 

Hotels  (bargain  advisable ;  electric  light  at  all,).  Hotel  des  Eteangees 
Casa  Politi,  Piazza  Nizza  (PI.  C,  4),  with  baths,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2y2-5V2,  B. 
IV4,  dej.  3,  D.  41/2  (t)oth  incl.  wine),  pens.  7-12  (for  stay  of  5  days  or 
more),  omn.  1  fr.  ;  Vittokia  (PI.  b;.B,  2),  Via  Mirabella  32,  in  the  town, 
without  view,  newly  fitted  up,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3Vs,  B.  1,  dej.  3,  D.  5  (both 
incl.  wine),  pens.  10,  omn.  1  fr.  (new  building  on  the  Marina  proposed): 
Koma,  Via  Roma  11  (PI.  C,  4),  R.,  L.,&A.  l3/4-3,  dig.  2>/i,    D.  4i/2    pens 


17.  Tribunate  e  Assisie 

l&JJcmca  popolare 
\§,AlbiTrjo  Kama 

~\~if(oriti 


(W*,o^r;i|)U  Aiistait,  tou 


™  K„,-r   "    Drtcs!  ESSES 


Guides.  SYRACUSE.  39.  Route.     351 

5-7  (all  incl.  wine),  omn.  1  fr.,  usually  well  spoken  of;  Albeego  del  Sole, 
Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele,  near  the  quay,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  172-272,  dej.  2,  D.  3J/2 
(both  incl-  wine),  pens.  6V2,  omn.  1  fr.,  mediocre. 

Restaurants.  Roma,  see  p.  350;  Trattoria  del  Piemontese,  opposite  the 
Croce  di  Savoia  Cafe.  —  Muscato,  Amarena,  Isola  Bianco,  and  other  Syra- 
cusan  wines  may  be  procured.  Among  the  favourite  varieties  of  fish  are 
the  Rivetto  (large,  but  delicate),  Salamone,  Dentici  (so  called  from  its  large 
teeth),  and  Palamito  (resembling  salmon). 

Cafe.  "Croce  di  Savoia,  Piazza  del  Duomo.  —  Near  the  piazza  is  a 
Club,  well  supplied  with  Italian  newspapers  (visitors  readily  admitted). 

Cabs.  From  the  station  to  the  town,  see  p.  350.  —  Drive  in  the  town, 
with  one  horse  50  c.,  with  two  horses  80  c. ;  at  night  1  fr.  or  1  fr.  30  c.  — 
Per  hour  IV2  or  2  fr.,  at  night  2  or  2'/2  fr. ;  each  additional  half-hour  60 
or  80  c,  and  80"C  or  1  fr.  Carriages  may  generally  be  hired  at  a  lower 
rate  in  the  Piazza  del  Duomo;  at  the  hotels,  double  fare  is  charged.  — 
Luggage  20  c,  if  over  a  hundredweight  40  c. 

Guides  (fee  8-10  fr.  for  a  whole  day).  Salvatore  Politi,  Michel  Angelo 
Politi  (speaks  a  little  French),  Oabriele  Vairo,  Albergo  Vittoria,  Felice  Va- 
lerio,  Strada  Eesalibera  14  (speaks  English,  French,  etc.),  Richard  Zunke,  etc. 

Donkeys,  about  3  fr.  per  day. 

Boats.  To  the  Cyane  (p.  364)  6-8  fr. ;  to  the  mouth  of  the  Anapo  only, 
l'/2-2  fr.  —  The  boatmen  here  are  generally  less  extortionate  in  their 
demands  than  those  in  other  parts  of  Italy.  To  or  from  the  steamboats 
'/2  fr.  for  each  person.  Ferry  from  the  town  to  the  Sicilian  coast  (Pozzo 
degli  Ingegneri)  or  across  the  small  harbour  to  the  N.,  10  c. ;  pedestrians 
thus  effect  a  considerable  saving. 

Steamboats  of  the  Florio  -  Rubattino  Co.  on  Tues.  and  Frid.  at  8  a.m. 
to  Catania,  Messina,  and  Palermo ;  on  Mon.  at  11  p.m.  to  Terranova ,  Li- 
cata,  Girgenti,  Sciacca,  Trapani,  and  Palermo  (see  p.  276).  On  Sun. 
and  Wed.  at  9.30  p.m.  and  11  p.m.   to  Malta  (see  p.  376). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Via  Roma.  —  Diligence  to  Palazzolo,  see 
p.  307. 

British  Vice-Consul.     Sig.  Nicola  Bisani. 

Attractions.  If  the  traveller  has  one  day  only  at  his  disposal ,  he 
should  devote  but  a  few  hours  to  the  modern  town,  and  the  rest  of  the 
day  to  the  ancient  city ;  and  he  should  not  omit  to  visit  the  Greek  theatre 
at  sunset.  The  chief  points  of  the  ancient  town  may  be  visited  by  carriage 
in  3-4  hrs. ,  if  Fort  Euryelus  and  Telegrafo  be  omitted.  —  Two  days  at 
least  should,  however,  be  devoted  to  Syracuse  if  possible,  and  in  this  case 
an  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  valley  of  the  Anapo.  There  are  many 
pleasant  walks  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  with  the  aid  of  the  map  and 
the  following  directions  the  most  interesting  points  may  be  found  without 
a  guide.  Bread  and  cheese  and  also  good  wine  are  obtained  in  the  nu- 
merous osterie,  and  the  traveller  may  supplement  these  by  carrying  with 
him  some  eggs  or  cold  meat. 

Syracuse,  which  was  in  ancient  times  the  most  important  town 
in  Sicily,  and  indeed  the  most  important  of  all  the  Hellenic  cities, 
now  contains  23,600  inhab.  only.  It  is  situated  on  an  island  close 
to  the  coast,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  prefect  and  a  bishop,  hut  its  trade 
is  unimportant.  The  hay  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town  is  the  Porto 
Grande ,  the  entrance  to  which  between  the  S.  extremity  of  the 
island  and  the  opposite  promontory  of  Massolivieri ,  the  ancient 
Plemmyrion ,  is  1300  yds.  in  width.  The  N.  bay  is  named  the 
Small  Harbour.  In  the  height  of  its  prosperity  Syracuse  contained 
no  fewer  than  500,000  inhab.,  and  it  extended  over  a  large  tract 
of  the  lofty  coast  to  the  N.W.  This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
points  in  Sicily,  its  natural  beauties  vying  with  its  great  classical 
attractions. 


352     Route  39.  SYRACUSE.  History. 

Syracuse  was  founded  in  734  by  Corinthians  under  ArcMas  on  the  island 
of  Ortygia,  where  a  Phoenician  settlement  had  probahly  been  established 
at  an  earlier  period.  The  Sikelian  inhabitants  were  reduced  to  the  con- 
dition of  serfs,  and  compelled  to  cultivate  the  soil.  The  government  was 
"conducted  by  the  aristocracy,  the  descendants  of  the  founders,  who  were 
called  Gamores.  Owing  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  colony  rapidly 
rose  to  prosperity,  and  within  70  years  after  its  establishment  founded 
Acres  (Palazzolo)  and  Henna  (Castrogiovanni),  and  20  years  later  Casmense. 
(It  is  probable,  however,  that  Henna  was  of  later  origin.)  Camarina 
was  founded  in  599.  The  final  issue  of  the  contests  carried  on  with 
varying  success  between  the  nobles  and  the  people  was,  that  Oelon  in  485 
extended  his  supremacy  from  Gela  to  Syracuse,  to  which  he  transferred 
his  residence.  He  contributed  in  every  respect  to  the  aggrandisement 
of  the  city,  and,  after  he  had  in  conjunction  with  Theron  defeated  the 
Carthaginians  at  Himera  in  480,  the  golden  era  of  the  Greek  supremacy 
in  Sicily  began.  During  a  long  series  of  years  the  fortunes  of  the  whole 
island  were  now  interwoven  with  those  of  Syracuse.  Gelon,  who  reigned 
-for  seven  years  only,  was,  after  his  death  in  478,  revered  as  a  demigod 
-and  the  'second  founder  of  the  city'. 

He  was  succeeded  by  his  brother  Hiero  I.  whose  rule  was  characterised 
by  the  same  energy  and  good  fortune.  He  defeated  the  formidable  Etruscans 
(p.  103)  near  Cumse ;  and  at  his  court  JEschylus,  Pindar,  Simonides, 
Epicharmus,  Sophron,  and  Bacchylides  flourished.  After  a  reign  of  11  years 
only  he  was  succeeded  by  Thrasybulus,  the  youngest  of  the  three  brothers. 

Notwithstanding  his  army  of  15,000  mercenaries ,  Thrasybulus  was 
banished  from  the  city  in  the  year  of  his  accession  (467),  and  a  Democracy 
.was  established.  In  the  conflicts  with  the  Sikelian  prince  Ducetius  and 
the  Acragantines  the  army  of  Syracuse  maintained  its  superiority,  and  the 
.supremacy  of  the  city  gradually  extended  over  a  great  part  of  the  island. 

Syracuse  was  afterwards  reduced  to  great  extremities  by  the  Athenians, 
whose  aid  had  been  invoked  by  the  Egestans.  In  B.C.  415  they  accordingly 
sent  a  fleet  of  134  triremes  to  Sicily  under  Nicias  and  Lamachus ,  hoping 
to  conquer  the  island  and  thus  extend  their  supremacy  over  the  western 
Mediterranean.  At  first  the  Athenians  were  successful,  especially  in  the 
summer  of  414  when  they  stormed  the  loftily  situated  Epipolse,  and  almost 
entirely  surrounded  the  city  with  a  double  wall,  extending  from  the 
Trogilus  to  the  great  harbour.  The  beleaguered  city  was  on  the  point 
of  capitulating  when  the  Spartan  Gylippus,  who  had  landed  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  island  with  a  small  army,  came  to  its  relief,  and  succeeded  in 
making  his  way  into  it  through  an  opening  in  the  Athenian  wall.  With 
his  aid  the  citizens  gradually  recovered  strength,  and  gained  possession  of 
the  Plemmyrium,  the  promontory  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbour  opposite 
Ortygia,  and  then  occupied  by  Nicias.  Once  more,  indeed,  the  nautical 
skill  of  the  Athenians  enabled  them  to  defeat  the  Syracusan  fleet  off  the 
harbour,  and  they  erected  a  trophy  on  the  small  island  of  La  Galera 
below  Plemmyrium ;  but  this  was  their  last  success.  In  another  naval 
battle  the  Syracusans  were  victorious ,  while  the  prospects  of  the  Athe- 
nians were  tmt  temporarily  improved  by  the  arrival  of  Demosthenes  with 
auxiliaries.  A  desperate  attempt  made  by  the  latter  by  night  to  capture 
the  heights  of  Epipolfe,  and  thus  to  avoid  the  Syracusan  intrenchments 
which  confined  the  Athenians  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Great  Harbour,  was 
repulsed  with  great  slaughter.  Disease  broke  out  among  the  Athenians, 
and  their  misfortunes  were  aggravated  by  dissensions  among  their  generals. 
The  retreat  was  finally  determined  on ,  but  was  frustrated  by  an  eclipse 
of  the  moon  (27th  Aug.  413)  and  by  the  superstition  of  Nicias.  The  Syra- 
cusans then  resolved  to  endeavour  to  annihilate  their  enemy.  They 
were  again  victorious  in  a  naval  battle ,  and  enclosed  their  harbour  by 
a  series  of  vessels,  anchored  and  connected  by  chains  across  the  entrance, 
8  stadia  in  width.  The  decisive  encounter  now  approached.  The  two 
land-armies  were  stationed  on  the  bank  of  the  harbour  and  stimulated 
the  combatants  by  loud  shouts,  whilst  the  fluctuating  tide  of  success 
elicited  alternate  expressions  of  joy  and  grief,  which  have  been  so 
graphically    described    by    Thucydides    as    resembling    the    surging    of    a 


History.  SYRACUSE.  39.  Route.      353 

dramatic  chorus.  The  Athenians  were  overpowered.  On  the  following 
day  the  crews  refused  to  attempt  again  to  force  a  passage,  and  on  the 
third  day  the  retreat  was  commenced  by  land  in  the  direction  of  the 
interior  of  the  island.  To  the  W.  of  Floridia,  however,  the  pass  was 
obstructed  (comp.  p.  307),  and  the  ill-fated  Athenians  were  compelled  to 
return  to  the  coast.  Here  they  were  overtaken  by  the  Syracusans. 
Demosthenes  with  6000  men  was  compelled  to  surrender,  and  after  a 
fearful  struggle  on  the  Asinarus ,  near  Noto  ,  Nicias  met  with  the  same 
fate.  Few  escaped.  The  generals  were  executed,  and  the  prisoners 
languished  for  eight  months  in  the  Latomise,  after  which  the  survivors 
were  sold  as  slaves,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  who  are  said  to  have 
been  set  at  liberty  on  account  of  their  skill  in  reciting  the  verses  of 
Euripides.  Thus  was  the  power  of  mighty  Athens  shattered  against 
the  walls  of  Syracuse,  never  again  to  recover  its  ancient  prestige;  and 
Thucydides  justly  observes  that  'this  event  was  the  most  important  which 
befel  the  Greeks  during  this  war  (the  Peloponnesian),  or  indeed  in  any 
others  in  Greek  history  which  are  known  to  us.' 

A  few  years  after  the  deliverance  of  the  city  from  these  extremities 
the  Carthaginians  overran  the  island.  This  new  and  imminent  danger  was 
the  occasion  of  the  rise  of  Dionysius  I.,  who  presided  over  the  fortunes  of 
the  city  with  great  ability  from  406  to  367.  Himilco,  who  besieged  the 
city  from  the  Plemmyrium  and  the  Olympieum,  was  fortunately  driven 
away  by  a  pestilence  in  396.  Dionysius  then  chastised  the  allies  of  the 
Carthaginians,  and  fortified,  extended,  and  greatly  embellished  the  city. 
His  sway  embraced  the  greater  part  of  Sicily  and  Magna  Grsecia,  and  his 
influence  in  the  affairs  of  Greece  itself  was  so  great  that  he  was  regarded 
as  the  most  powerful  prince  of  his  time  next  to  the  king  of  Persia. 

His  son  Dionysius  II.  possessed  the  vices  without  the  virtues  of  his 
father.  In  356  he  was  banished  by  his  uncle  Dion,  and  again,  on  his  return 
to  the  city  after  the  assassination  of  Dion,  by  Timoleon  in  343.  The  latter 
re-established  the  republic,  and  introduced  new  colonists  from  Greece. 
After  his  death  in  336,  however,  the  independence  of  the  Syracusans  again 
began  to  decline. 

In  317  the  tyrant  Agathocles  from  Thermae  (Termini)  usurped  the 
supreme  power,  and  retained  it  until  his  death  (by  poison)  in  289.  He  was  a 
talented  monarch,  but  a  characteristic  example  of  the  moral  depravity  of 
the  Greeks  of  his  time  —  cruel,  faithless,  and  full  of  fantastic  schemes. 
Whilst  he  was  engaged  in  besieging  Carthage,  Hamilcar  attacked  Syracuse 
(310),  but  unsuccessfully.  The  sway  of  Agathocles  extended  to  Lower  Italy 
also.  On  his  death  the  republican  form  of  government  was  re-established, 
but  in  288  Hicetas  usurped  the  tyranny,  and  was  assassinated  in  279.  His 
murderers  invited  Pyrrhus  of  Epirus,  son-in-law  of  Agathocles,  from  Italy, 
who  arrived  in  278  and  conquered  nearly  the  whole  island.  He  gave  dissatis- 
faction, however,  to  the  Syracusans,  and  returned  to  Italy  in  276. 

On  the  departure  of  Pyrrhus  the  general  Eiero  II.  became  king,  and 
under  him  Syracuse  enjoyed  its  last  period  of  prosperity  (275-216).  Theo- 
critus, the  father  of  bucolic  poetry,  and  Archimedes ,  the  mathematician, 
were  among  the  eminent  men  who  lived  at  his  court.  He  was  unable, 
however,  to  wrest  Messana  from  the  Mamertines,  who  threw  themselves 
upon  the  protection  of  Rome.  In  the  First  Punic  War,  which  then  ensued, 
Hiero  at  first  took  the  part  of  the  Carthaginians,  but  afterwards  entered 
into  a  treaty  with  the  Romans,  whose  faithful  ally  he  remained  for  the 
rest  of  his  life.  Under  the  auspices  of  Hiero  was  constructed  a  magnificent 
and  famous  vessel  which  has  been  described  by  Athenseus. 

Bieronymus,  Hiero's  successor,  allied  himself  with  the  Carthaginians, 
and  after  his  assassination  the  city  was  held  by  Carthaginian  agents.  It 
was  therefore  besieged  by  Marcellus  in  214-212 ,  and  was  defended  against 
his  attacks  on  the  N.  and  from  the  sea  by  the  celebrated  Archimedes. 
During  the  celebration  of  a  festival,  some  of  the  bravest  Romans  scaled 
the  walls  of  Tyche  (by  the  Trogilus  harbour)  and,  proceeding  along  the 
summit,  captured  Hexapylon,  which  had  been  erected  by  Dionysius.  Tyche, 
Neapolis,  and  the  Epipolae  thus  fell  into  the  hands  of  Marcellus,  but  the 
island  and  the  Achradina  were  not  yet  overcome.    Whilst  he  was  attack- 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  23 


354     Route  39.  SYRACUSE.  Cathedral. 

ing  the  Achradina  in  its  entire  length  on  the  W.  the  besieged  quitted  the 
island  in  order  to  aid  in  repelling  the  attack.  This  contingency  was  anti- 
cipated by  a  traitor,  who  introduced  the  crew  of  a  Roman  vessel  into  the 
town  by  means  of  the  Arethusa,  and  conducted  them  to  Achradina.  The 
city  was  plundered,  and  Archimedes  slain  by  a  soldier  who  did  not  know 
him.  In  order  to  paralyse  the  city's  power  of  resistance,  Marcellus  caused 
the  island,  which  since  the  erection  of  Achradina  had  been  connected 
with  the  mainland,  to  be  again  separated,  and  united  with  it  by  a  bridge 
only,  at  the  same  time  forbidding  the  Syracusans  to  inhabit  it. 

After  the  enormous  booty,  comprising  valuable  works  of  art,  had  been 
conveyed  to  Rome,  Syracuse  sank  to  the  condition  of  a  Roman  provincial 
town.  Cicero,  indeed,  describes  it  as  the  'largest  of  Greek,  and  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  cities',  but  this  was  little  more  than  an  echo  of  the  testimony 
of  earlier  writers  in  happier  days.  It  was  so  reduced  by  the  civil  war  between 
Pompey  and  Octavian  that  the  latter,  on  his  accession  to  the  throne,  found 
it  necessary  to  re-people  it  with  a  new  colony.  The  Apostle  Paul  spent 
three  days  at  Syracuse  on  his  journey  to  Rome,  and,  although  he  did  not 
found  a  Christian  community  there,  it  is  certain  that  Christianity  was  estab- 
lished in  the  city  at  a  very  early  period.  According  to  tradition,  St.  Peter 
is  said  to  have  sent  St.  Marcian  hither  from  Antioch  in  the  year  44,  for 
the  purpose  of  preaching  Christianity. 

Belisarius  took  Syracuse  in  535  and  made  it  the  capital  of  the  island, 
and  under  Constantius,  in  663-668,  it  was  even  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
Byzantine  empire.  It  was  conquered  in  878  by  the  Saracens  and  in  1085 
■by  the  Normans ,  but  remained  at  this  period  of  no  importance.  —  Here 
in  1676,  after  the  battle  of  Agosta,  the  celebrated  naval  hero  De  Ruyter  died 
(p.  360). 

In  1837  the  Neapolitan  government  transferred  the  prefecture  from 
Syracuse  to  Noto.  In  1865,  however,  the  city  was  again  raised  to  the 
Tank  of  the  capital  of  a  province,  and  it  now  begins  to  recover  a  little 
of  its  ancient  importance. 

A  few  only  of  the  attractions  of  Syracuse  lie  within  the  modern 
town,  most  of  them  being  situated  on  the  rocky  plateau  to  the  N.W., 
the  site  of  the  ancient  city. 

I.  Modern  Syracuse. 

CathedralfsPemple  of  Minerva),  Museum,  Arethusa,  Temple  of  Diana. 

The  present  town ,  as  already  stated ,  occupies  the  island  of 
Ortygia,  which  formed  but  a  small  part  of  the  site  of  the  ancient 
city.  The  town,  which  is  now  lighted  by  electricity,  is  closely  and 
irregularly  built.  It  is  traversed  lengthwise  by  two  somewhat  wind- 
ing main  streets,  intersected  by  a  third,  the  Corso  Vittorio  Eman- 
uele,  formerly  called  the  Via  Maestranza.  The  cathedral-square  ad- 
joins the  Via  Cavour,  the  westernmost  of  the  two  long  streets. 

The  Cathedral  (PI. 5 ;  B,3)  stands  on  the  site  of  a  Doric  temple, 
the  columns  of  which  with  their  capitals  and  the  entablature  with 
its  triglyphs  are  still  seen  projecting  from  the  N.  side  of  the  church. 
The  temple  was  a  peripteral  hexastyle  on  a  basement  of  three  steps, 
about  61  yds.  in  length,  and  24  yds.  in  width.  Of  the  thirty-six 
columns  eleven  are  still  visible  on  the  N.  and  eight  on  the  S.  side. 
They  are  28  ft.  in  height  and  6V2  ft-  in  thickness.  It  is  not  known 
to  what  deity  the  temple  was  dedicated,  but  from  its  proximity  to 
the  Arethusa,  it  was  perhaps  a  temple  of  Diana.  Local  tradition 
calls   it  a    Temple    of  Minerva ;    but  the  temple    of   that  goddess, 


Museum.  SYRACUSE.  39.  Route.     355 

described  by  Cicero  in  his  speeches-  against  Verres  as  a  sumptuous 
edifice  containing  the  most  costly  treasures,  is  supposed  by  several 
authorities  to  have  stood  at  the  S.E.  extremity  of  the  island.  The 
interior  of  the  cathedral  is  of  no  great  interest.  The  pilasters  sep- 
arating the  nave  from  the  aisles  occupy  the  place  of  the  ancient 
walls  of  the  cella.  The  font,  formerly  in  S.  Giovanni  (p.  362),  con- 
sists of  an  antique  marble  basin  with  traces  of  a  Greek  inscription, 
supported  by  bronze  lions. 

The  *Museum  (beside  PI.  14;  B,  3),  situated  nearly  opposite 
the  chief  entrance  of  the  cathedral,  is  open  daily  12-3,  Sun.  12-2. 
The  collection, 'which  is  admirably  arranged,  has  recently  been  con- 
siderably extended.    The  director  is  Commend.  Fr.  8.  Cavallari. 

Ground  Floor.  To  the  right :  Christian  inscriptions ;  Sarcophagus 
of  Valerius  found  in  the  catacombs  of  S.  Giovanni  and  dating  from  the 
5th  cent.  A. D.  In  the  centre,  Byzantine  capital.  —  In  the  adjoining  room, 
mediaeval  objects  and  Renaissance  works;  by  the  left  wall,  Statue  of  the 
Madonna  (about  1500).  Opposite  the.  entrance  is  a  Renaissance  sarcophagus, 
with  the  recumbent  statue  of  the  deceased,  from  S.  Domenico  (1496).  — 
To  the  left:  Room  I.  Inscriptions,  etc.  Room  II.  Caskets  for  ashes. 
Room  III.  Architectural  fragments-,  including  a  lion's  head  as  gargoyle  and 
a  fine  Corinthian  capital,  with  traces  of  painting.  Room  IV.  Roman  por- 
trait-statues;  fine  view  from  the  balcony.  The  small. room  to  the  left  of 
Room  IV.  contains  a  "Statue  of  Venus  Anadyotnene,  with  a  dolphin  by 
her  side,  found  by  March.  Landolina  in  the  Bonavia  garden  in  1804,  pre- 
served almost  entire  except  the  head.  —  On  the  right  side  of  the  central 
hall,  Greek  sculptures :  opposite  the  entrance,  very  antique  and  much  da- 
maged Relief  from  Megara  Hyblsea,  representing  a  kneeling  warrior; 
'Statuette  of  a  Woman ;  "Head  of  Zeus ;  Greek  tomb-relief  of  a  boy  and  a 
man  (lower  half);  opposite  the  window,  altar  from  the  proscenium  of  the 
Greek  theatre ;  masks,  etc.  We  now  return  through  the  court  and  ascend 
to  the  — 

Fikst  Floor.  The  vestibule  contains  clay  vessels  of  the  pre-Grecian 
period,  found  in  Sikelian  tombs.  —  Straight  on  is  a  room  with  some  very 
ancient  terracottas.  In  Case  1.  Articles  found  at  Megara  Hyblsea;  in  Case  2, 
beautiful  "Female  Heads  from  Syracuse  and  Acrse,  resembling  Tanagra 
figures ;  by  the  window,  to  the  right,  bronze  utensils  and  weapons  ;  straight 
on,  to  the  left,  glass  and  heads  of  Medusa  in  terracotta;  to  the  right, 
bronze  objects.  —  To  the  right  of  this  room  is  the  director's  residence. — 
To  the  left,  valuable  collection  of  Greek  vases  (especially  Corinthian  vases 
from  Acrse,  Ortygia,  Lentini,  Camerina,  Fusco,  and  Megara  Hyblffia)  and 
lamps.  —  An  adjoining  room  (usually  locked  ;  key  kept  by  the  director) 
contains  a  valuable  collection  of  'Greek  Coins,  chiefly  from  Syracuse ;  and 
a  few  paintings,  including  a  Madonna  by  Antonello  Panormita  (1497). 

To  the  N.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Library  (PL  8)  -with  9000  vols, 
and  a  few  MSS.,  open  1042. 

From  the  S.  angle  of  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  the  Via  Maniaoi  leads 
in  3  min.  to  the  celebrated  Fountain  of  Arethusa  (PL  B,  4,  5),  which 
has  recently  been  enclosed  in  a  semicircular  basin,  adorned  with 
papyrus  plants.  The  Tiymph  Arethusa,  pursued  hither  from  Elis 
by  the  river -god  Alpheus,  is  said  to  have  been  metamorphosed 
by  Diana  into  this  fountain.  The  water  is  now  salt,  the  result  of 
an  earthquake.  The  railing  is  opened,  if  desired,  by  the  custodian 
(20-30  c).  —  The  Passeggiata  Aretusa  (PI.  A,  3, 4)  affords  a  pleasant 
walk  and  a  view  of  the  harbour  and  Mt.  jEtna. 

23* 


356    Route  39.  SYRACUSE.  Achradina. 

The  ruins  of  a  so-called  Temple  of  Diana  (PI.  15 ;  B,  1)  in  the 
Vico  di  S.  Paolo  are  more  probably  those  of  a  temple  of  Apollo.  This 
very  remarkable  Greek  temple,  the  front  part  of  which  recent  ex- 
cavations have  brought  to  light,  was  a  peripteral  hexastyle  of  un- 
usual length,  and  must  have  been  flanked  by  at  least  nineteen  col- 
umns on  each  side.  A  very  early  inscription  on  the  highest  step  of 
the  basement,  unfortunately  much  mutilated,  is  supposed  to  refer 
to  the  foundation  of  the  edifice  and  its  dedication  to  Apollo,  whose 
name  it  contains. 

The  other  antiquities  in  the  town  (remains  of  baths,  etc.)  are 
of  inferior  interest.  Among  the  numerous  remains  of  mediaeval 
architecture,  the  *Palazzo  Montalto  (PI.  10 ;  B,  2)  deserves  mention. 
—  Above  the  Porta  Marina  are  ornaments  in  the  Saracenic  style. 


II.  Ancient  Syracuse. 

If  time  permit,  the  traveller  should  arrange  his  visit  as  follows.  Drive 
in  the  morning  to  Fort  Euryelus  (p.  360;  one-horse  carr.  about  fyfe  fr. 
bargain  advisable)  or  to  Belvedere  (p.  360;  3  fr.),  where  the  carriage  is 
dismissed.  Visit  the  Telegrafo  and  descend  in  l/i  hr.  to  Fort  Euryelus 
again.  Thence  by  a  path  following  the  ancient  aqueduct  (the  custodian 
will  show  the  beginning  of  the  path),  past  the  Latomia  dei  Filosoli,  to 
(IV2  hr.)  the  Neapolis,  the  inspection  of  which  should  begin  at  the  Am- 
phitheatre (p.  358). 

Syracuse  was  the  largest  of  the  Hellenic  cities.  Strabo  states 
that  its  circumference  was  180  stadia  (20  M.).  It  consisted  of  five 
distinct  portions :  — 

1.  The  island  Oktygia  (p.  354),  the  oldest  part  of  the  city. 

2.  The  town  on  the  precipitous  coast  to  the  N.  of  the  island, 
called  the  Achradina  ,  one-half  being  situated  on  the  plateau  of 
limestone-rock,  the  other  half  between  the  latter  and  the  great  har- 
bour, excluding  a  small  portion  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  small  har- 
bour which  Dionysius  had  enclosed  with  a  lofty  wall  and  added  to 
the  island.  To  the  latter  belonged  the  Small  Harbour  (sometimes 
erroneously  called  the  Marble  Harbour),  which  lay  between  the  wall 
and  the  island.  —  The  W.  wall  of  the  Achradina  (comp.  the 
Plan)  may  still  be  traced  by  the  remnants  which  extend  towards 
the  S.  from  the  tonnara  of  S.  Panagia.  Near  the  point  where  the 
roads  from  Noto  and  Floridia  converge,  the  wall  of  the  Achradina 
probably  abutted  on  the  Great  Harbour,  which  was  also  flanked 
with  quays.  Towards  the  sea  this  secure  part  of  the  town,  which 
could  never  be  reduced  by  violence,  was  defended  by  a  lofty  wall. 
Here  were  the  Market  ('Agora')  with  Colonnades,  the  Bouleuterion, 
where  the  national  assemblies  were  held,  the  Pentapylon  and  the 
Prytaneum.  The  latter  lay  opposite  to  the  island ,  to  the  right  of 
the  present  road  to  Catania  (see  p.  358),  where  the  Timoleonteum, 
a  gymnasium  with  colonnades,  containing  the  tomb  of  Timoleon, 
also  rose. 

It  is  not  easy  to  determine  with  equal  certainty  the  limits  of  the 


Epipolae.  SYRACUSE.  39.  Route.     357 

parts  of  the  city  which  lay  to  the  W.  of  the  Achradina,  on  the  plateau, 
which  contracts  as  it  ascends  towards  the  Epipolae  or  fortress. 

3.  Tychb  ,  on  the  N.  side ,  derived  its  name  from  a  temple  of 
Fortune. 

4.  Nbapolis,  situated  to  the  S. ,  on  the  terrace  above  the  great 
harbour ,  and  which  during  the  Roman  period  descended  to  the 
plain  as  far  as  the  left  side  of  the  road  to  Floridia ,  was  named  Te- 
merities at  the  time  of  the  Athenian  siege.  Here  are  situated  the 
Greek  Theatre ,  the  so-called  Ara ,  the  Roman  Amphitheatre ,  the 
Palaestra  in  the  garden  of  Bufardeci ,  the  Latomie  del  Paradiso 
and  of  S.  Venera,  and  the  Street  of  Tombs. 

5.  The  Epifol-e  ,  the  highest  point  of  the  city,  formed  the  W. 
angle  of  the  trilateral  plateau,  and  was  so  named  by  the  Syracusans, 
as  we  are  informed  by  Thucydides ,  from  being  on  the  top  of  or 
above  (Greek  lmnok?}<z)  the  rest  of  the  city.  At  the  time  of  the 
Athenian  siege  this  point  was  as  yet  unconnected  with  the  city, 
although  not  left  unguarded.  The  Athenians  took  it  by  surprise,  con- 
structed Labdalon,  an  intrenchment  on  the  N.  side,  and  intended 
to  erect  a  wall  extending  from  the  harbour  Trogilus  in  a  curve  round 
Achradina,  Tyche,  and  the  Temenites  to  the  great  harbour.  Gylip- 
pus,  however,  by  the  construction  of  a  cross-wall,  rendered  the  un- 
dertaking useless,  just  as  it  was  approaching  completion. 

The  merit  of  surrounding  these  four  districts  by  a  City-wall, 
constructed  of  huge  blocks  of  stone,  is  due  to  Dionysius  I.  The  N. 
portion  was  probably  erected  about  402.  Within  twenty  days,  it  is 
said,  60,000  workmen  with  6000  yoke  of  oxen  constructed  30  sta- 
dia (3y2  M.)  of  the  wall,  but  the  work  was  not  completed  till  the 
year  385. 

The  whole  of  the  enclosed  space  could  not  have  been  covered  with 
houses,  but  every  trace  of  buildings  having  completely  disappeared ,  the 
only  clue  to  the  extent  to  which  the  ground  was  so  occupied  consists  of  the 
number  of  wells  which  still  exist.  Two  vast  Aqueducts  supplied  the  city, 
one  of  which  was  fed,  high  among  the  mountains,  by  the  Buttigliara,  an 
affluent  of  the  Anapus ,  whence  it  conveyed  the  water  by  subterranean 
channels,  several  miles  long,  up  to  the  level  of  the  Epipolse.  It  is  there 
seen  flowing  near  the  summit  uncovered,  after  which  it  is  precipitated 
from  the  height  near  the  theatre,  and  finally  empties  itself  into  the  har- 
bour. The  other  aqueduct  descends  from  Monte  Crimiti,  the  Thymbris  of 
Theocritus,  and  also  ascends  to  the  level  of  the  Epipolse ,  after  which  it 
skirts  the  N.  city-wall,  sending  several  branches  southwards  to  the  Achra- 
dina. It  then  turns  to  the  S.  and  proceeds  along  the  coast.  The  course 
of  this  channel  is  traced  by  means  of  the  numerous  rectangular  apertures 
hewn  in  the  rocky  plateau,  in  which,  far  below,  flowing  water  is  detected. 
As  these  openings  (spiragli)  do  not  occur  for  a  long  way  between  the 
Epipolse  and  the  other  parts  of  the  town,  we  may  assume  that  this  space 
was  uninhabited.  The  Athenians,  as  is  well  known,  cut  off  the  supply 
of  one  aqueduct. 

Crossing  the  fortifications  of  the  inner,  and  then  (7  min.)  those 
of  the  outer  town-gate,  we  come  in  5  min.  more  to  a  circular  space 
from  which  three  roads  diverge.  That  to  the  left  leads  to  Noto 
(p.  306) ;   that  in  a  straight  direction  is  the  Floridia  and  Palazzolo 


358     Route  39.  SYRACUSE.  Amphitheatre. 

road  (p.  306),  which  leads  to  the  railway-station  and  Fort  Euryelus 
(comp.  p.  360).  The  road  to  the  right  forks  after  a  few  hundred 
paces,  the  right  and  narrower  branch  leading  to  the  Cappuccini 
(p.  362),  and  the  left  branch  to  Catania  (p.  336).  The  latter  divides 
the  ancient  city  into  two  nearly  equal  parts :  on  the  E.  (right)  lies 
the  Achradina,  on  the  W.  (left)  Neapolis  and  Epipolae,  to  the  N. 
Tyche.  Our  description  begins  with  the  more  important  and  inter- 
esting W.  half. 

In  the  Bufardeci  Garden ,  near  the  railway-station ,  the  remains  of  a 
Roman  palsestra,  marked  'Ginnasio  Romano^  on  the  Plan,  were  excavated 
in  1864.  Among  the  interesting  ruins  are  fragments  of  a  handsome  en- 
tablature. Beyond  this  is  visible  the  wall  of  the  Roman  Neapolis,  on  the 
other  side  of  which  an  ancient  street  has  been  discovered. 


a.    Western  Portion. 

Amphitheatre.  Hecatomb  Altar.   "Latomie  del  Faradiso  and  di  Sta.  Venera. 
''Theatre.  Street  of  Tombs.  "Euryelus. 

In  a  meadow ,  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  right  of  the  above- 
named  circular  space  outside  the  fortifications,  we  observe  a  column, 
which  is  probably  a  fragment  of  the  magnificent  ancient  forum 
(Agora).  Not  far  from  this  column  passes  the  road  to  Catania,  from 
which  the  road  to  the  Cappuccini  immediately  diverges  to  the  right 
(see  p.  361). 

The  Catania  road  then  crosses  the  Tailway  and  ascends  gradually. 
After  V2  M.,  at  the  point  where  we  observe  the  rose-window  of  the 
church  of  S.  Giovanni  (p.  362)  on  the  right,  our  road  is  crossed  by 
•another.  Following  the  latter  to  the  left  we  reach  (5  min.)  a  small 
osteria  and  the  house  of  the  Custode  delle  Antichita.  Adjacent  is 
a  Roman  reservoir.  The  services  of  the  custodian  are  necessary 
for  the  Latomia  del  Paradiso  only,  but  he  also  accompanies  visitors 
to  the  Amphitheatre  and  the  Greek  Theatre  (fee  1/2-l  fr.). 

Opposite  the  custodian's  house  a  path  to  the  left  leads  in  a  few 
minutes  to  the  Amphitheatre  ,  a  Roman  structure  of  the  period  of 
Augustus,  77  yds.  in  length  and  44  yds.  in  width,  and  apparently 
destitute  of  subterranean  chambers.  Numerous  blocks  of  marble 
from  the  ancient  parapet  lie  scattered  in  the  arena  ,  some  of  them 
bearing  inscriptions  with  the  names  of  the  proprietors  of  the  seats 
which  they  adjoined. 

About  150  paces  farther,  to  the  left  of  the  path,  is  the  (closed) 
entrance  to  the  great  Altar  of  Hiero  II.  It  is  related  of  that  mon- 
arch that  he  erected  an  altar,  a  stadium  (202  yds.)  in  length ;  and 
this  structure  is  probably  the  same,  being  215  yds.  in  length  and 
25  yds.  in  width.  Here  probably  were  sacrificed  the  hecatombs  of 
450  oxen,  which  were  annually  offered  to  commemorate  the  expul- 
sion of  the  tyrant  Thrasybulus. 

Opposite  is  the  entrance  (closed)  to  the  *Latomia  del  Paradiso,  an 
ancient  quarry  hewn  in  the  rock  to  a  depth  of  35-45  yds.,  and  now 


Greek  Theatre.  SYRACUSE.  39.  Route.      359 

overgrown  with  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation.  These  latomfe, 
which  form  one  of  the  characteristics  of  Syracuse  ,  yielded  the  ma- 
terial of  which  the  city  was  built.  Some  of  them  are  of  later  origin 
than  the  aqueducts.  They  were  also  used  as  burial-places,  and  they 
sometimes  formed  prisons  for  captive  enemies  who  were  compelled 
to  work  in  them.  On  some  of  the  isolated  masses  of  rock  traces  of 
the  guard-houses  of  the  sentries  are  said  to  be  still  distinguishable 
(?).  Adjoining  the  Latomi'a  del  Paradiso  (entrance  to  the  left  of 
the  gate)  is  the  *Ear  of  Dionysius,  so  named  since  the  16th  cent., 
a  grotto  hewn  in  the  rock  in  the  form  of  the  letter  S ,  210  ft. 
deep,  74  ft.  in  height,  and  15-35  ft.  in  width,  contracting  towards 
the  summit,  and  possessing  a  very  remarkable  acoustic  peculiarity. 
The  slightest  sound  in  the  grotto  is  heard  by  persons  at  the  upper 
end,  and  produces  a  strong  reverberation  at  the  entrance.  It  is 
related  of  Dionysius  that  he  constructed  prisons  with  such  acoustic 
properties  that  at  a  certain  point  he  could  detect  every  word  spoken 
in  them ,  even  when  whispered  only ,  and  this  grotto  has  been 
arbitrarily  assumed  to  be  one  of  these.  The  custodian  will  if  desired 
awaken  the  echoes  by  firing  a  pistol  (5  soldi).  The  shape  of  the 
grotto  is  evidently  due  to  the  rounding  of  the  adjoining  theatre. 
—  The  neighbouring  Latomia  di  Sta.  Venera  has  the  most  luxuriant 
vegetation. 

The  road  then  passes  under  the  modern  arches  of  the  aqueduct, 
and  leads  to  the  right,  past  an  osteria,  to  the  *(xreek  Theatre.  This 
was  the  largest  Greek  structure  of  the  kind,  after  those  of  Miletus 
and  Megalopolis,  and  was  erected  in  the  5th  cent.  B.C.  It  is  hewn 
in  the  rock  in  a  nearly  semicircular  form,  165  yds.  in  diameter. 
Distinct  traces  of  forty-six  tiers  of  seats  are  still  visible,  and  it 
is  estimated  that  fifteen  more  must  have  extended  as  far  as  the 
summit  of  the  excavation.  The  nine  cunei  were  intersected  by 
a  broad  and  a  narrow  praecinctio,  on  the  former  of  which  are  seen 
various  Greek  inscriptions ,  recording  the  names  of  King  Hiero, 
the  Queens  Philistis  and  Nereis,  and  Zeus  Olympius,  after  whom 
the  different  compartments  were  respectively  named.  Philistis  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  wife  of  Hiero  II.,  and  Nereis  to  have 
been  his  daughter-in-law.  The  eleven  lower  rows  only  were  covered 
with  marble.  The  hill  on  which  the  theatre  stands  commands  a 
superb  **View,  particularly  towards  sunset,  of  the  town,  the  harbour, 
the  promontory  of  Plemmyrium,  and  the  expanse  of  the  Ionian  sea. 

Above  the  theatre  is  the  Nymphaeum,  a  grotto,  into  which  two 
water-conduits  issue.  Epitaphs  were  formerly  inserted  in  the  sur- 
rounding walls.  To  the  N.  is  the  entrance  to  the  last  sinuosity  of 
the  Ear  of  Dionysius  (see  above). 

From  the  upper  part  of  the  theatre  the  rock-hewn  Street  of  the 
Tombs  (Via  delle  Tombe)  ascends  to  the  left.  In  the  sides  are 
numerous  cavities  and  tomb-chambers  ,  all  of  which  have  been 
despoiled  of  their  contents  and  decorations.     This  route  brings  us 


360      Route  39.  SYRACUSE.  Euryelus. 

in  5  min.  to  the  summit  of  the  desolate  plateau,  which  the  ped- 
estrian may  traverse  to  (li^-^hrs.)  FortEuryelus  (in  the  hot  season 
this  route  is  comfortable  only  early  in  the  morning).  We  follow  the 
broad  road  to  the  right,  which  follows  the  course  of  the  ancient  con- 
duit, and  soon  contracts.  To  the  left  we  enjoy  a  view  over  the  plain 
in  which  lay  the  Roman  Neapolis ,  with  the  sumptuous  temples  of 
Demeter  and  Persephone  erected  by  Gelon  in  480  with  the  proceeds 
of  spoil  taken  from  the  Carthaginians.  On  the  height  which  we 
now  traverse  were  situated  the  ancient  Neapolis  and  Temenites ; 
and  within  the  latter  stood  the  Temenos  of  Apollo,  with  the  statue 
of  the  god,  which  Verres  attempted  to  carry  off,  and  which  was 
afterwards  removed  to  Rome  by  Tiberius.  On  the  right,  farther 
on  ,  we  pass  the  Buffalaro  hill ,  from  the  quarries  of  which  Diony- 
sius  procured  stone  for  the  city-wall.  It  was  here  that  the  tyrant 
is  said  to  have  confined  the  poet  and  philosopher  Philoxenus  for 
having  disparaged  his  verses  (thence  named  Latomia  del  Filosofo). 

The  Carriage  Road  to  Fort  Euryelus  (carr.  see  p.  356J  may 
be  recommended  even  to  walkers  in  preference  to  the  route  just 
described.  It  coincides  at  first  with  the  road  to  Floridia.  Those 
who  have  visited  the  Greek  Theatre  by  carriage  must,  accordingly, 
return  to  the  circular  space  mentioned  at  p.  357.  — Beyond  thatpoint 
(to  theW.)  the  railway  from  Syracuse  toModica  crosses  the  road,  and 
farther  on  the  road  to  Canicattini  diverges  to  the  left.  To  the  right  is 
the  new  cemetery,  in  which  a  wall,  19  ft.  thick,  has  been  exhumed, 
believed  by  Cavallari  to  be  a  portion  of  the  peribolos  of  the  temple 
of  Demeter.  About  l3/4  M.  beyond  the  circular  space  above-men- 
tioned the  road  to  the  Euryelus  quits  that  to  Floridia.  It  then  de- 
scribes a  circuit  by  the  mill  of  Sinecchia,  and  approaches  the  fort 
from  the  W.  in  a  wide  bend  (short-cuts  for  pedestrians). 

*Fort  Euryelus  (now  called  Mongibellesi)  stands  at  the  W. 
extremity  of  the  ancient  city,  at  the  point  where  the  N.  and  S. 
walls  erected  by  Dionysius  on  the  table-land  converged.  It  ter- 
minates towards  the  W.  in  four  massive  towers ,  flanked  with 
two  deep  fosses  hewn  in  the  rock.  (The  custodian,  who  keeps  the 
key  of  the  gate ,  is  generally  on  the  spot.  Gentlemen ,  however, 
may  explore  the  different  passages  without  assistance.)  From  the 
first  of  these  fosses  diverge  a  number  of  subterranean  outlets, 
connected  with  each  other,  and  forming  passages  accessible  to  in- 
fantry, and  even  cavalry,  communicating  with  the  great  court  be- 
hind the  towers.  Another  subterranean  passage  ,  lately  cleared  of 
rubbish,  leads  to  a  fort  situated  on  the  line  of  the  city-wall  farther 
N.  In  the  rocks  opposite  these  apertures  are  hollows  which  were 
probably  used  as  magazines.  Those  to  the  right  contain  inscrip- 
tions of  letters  or  numbers  which  have  not  yet  been  deciphered. 

About  1 1/2  M.  farther  is  the  miserable  village  of  Belvedere  (poor 
osteria),  which  lies  on  the  narrow  "W-  ridge  extending  from  the  hill 
of  the  Epipolae  towards  the  mountains,  and  beyond  the  precincts  of 


S.  Lucia.  SYRACUSE.  39.  Route.     361 

the  ancient  fortifications.  Beyond  the  -village  rises  the  *Telegrafo 
(615  ft.  above  the  sea),  a  hill  crowned  with  a  conspicuous  telegraph 
building  (ascent  to  the  roof  permitted  ;  no  fee),  and  commanding  an 
excellent  survey  of  the  site  of  ancient  Syracuse.  The  view  to  the  N. 
however,  is  still  finer:  to  the  left  rises  theMte.  Crimiti,  the  ancient 
Thymbris ,  on  which  one  of  the  old  aqueducts  takes  its  rise ;  then 
jEtna  in  the  distance;  in  the  background  the  mountains  of  the  E. 
coast  of  Sicily,  and  more  to  the  right  the  mountains  of  Calabria. 

The  N.  side  of  the  Epipolse  is  bounded  by  the  remains  of  the 
Wall  of  Dionysius ,  which  active  walkers  and  climbers  may  follow. 
Numerous  fine  views  are  obtained  of  both  land  and  sea.  At  several 
points  we  encounter  solitary  olive-trees ,  in  the  shade  of  which  a 
pleasant  rest  may  be  enjoyed  on  one  of  the  massive  blocks  of  the 
old  wall.  Halfway  between  the  Euryelus  and  the  point  where  the 
road  to  Catania  intersects  the  city-wall  probably  stood  the  Athenian 
Fort  ofLabdalonQp.  357).  In  the  valley  below,  probably  on  the  sea, 
lay  Leon,  whence  the  Athenians  stormed  the  Epipolae.  — Those 
who  drive  to  the  Euryelus  and  then  visit  the  wall  of  Dionysius 
should  order  the  carriage  to  meet  them  at  the  Scala  Greca  (p.  363). 

b.    Eastern  Portion. 

S.  Lucia.     'Latomia  de'  Cappuccini.    Villa  Landolina.    Latomia  Casale. 
*S.  Giovanni  and  the  Catacombs. 

This  part  of  the  ancient  city  consists  chiefly  of  the  Achradina, 
remains  of  the  fortifications  of  which  may  be  distinctly  traced  on 
all  sides.  It  is  separated  from  the  island  of  Ortygia  by  the  Small 
Harbour,  which  Dionysius  formed  by  throwing  an  embankment 
across  the  open  sea,  and  the  narrow  entrance  of  which  was  capable 
of  being  closed. 

We  may  either  follow  the  road  diverging  to  the  right  from  the 
Catania  road  near  the  solitary  column  already  mentioned  (comp. 
p.  358),  or  we  may  effect  a  considerable  saving  by  crossing  the 
small  harbour  directly  from  the  town-gate  (25  c).  Those  who  follow 
the  road  will  pass  the  so-called  House  of  Agathocles ,  a  Roman 
building  in  a  garden  to  the  left,  and  (!/4  hr.  from  the  gate)  the 
landing-place  of  the  boats ,  where  remains  of  ancient  boat-houses 
are  still  to  be  seen  in  the  water. 

At  this  point  the  road  divides.  The  right  branch  skirts  the 
coast,  crosses  the  railway-cutting  by  a  bridge,  and  leads  direct  to 
the  Capuchin  monastery  (25  min.;   see  p.  362). 

The  left  branch  crosses  the  railway  immediately,  turns  to  the  right, 
and  leads  towards  the  conspicuous  campanile  of  Sta.  Lucia,  a  church 
erected  in  the  11th  cent,  on  the  spot  where  the  tutelary  saint  of  the  town 
is  said  to  have  suffered  martyrdom,  but  frequently  restored.  The  W.  Portal 
is  the  only  part  of  the  original  church  still  existing.  Over  the  high-altar, 
the  Entombment  of  the  saint  (quite  ruined),  ascribed  to  Caravaggio.  A 
passage  from  the  S.  transept  leads  past  an  entrance  to  the  catacombs  to 
a  Round  Church,  partly  subterranean,  containing  a   statue  of  S.  Lucia,   of 


362      Route  39.  SYRACUSE.  8.  Giovanni. 

the  school  of  Bernini. —  To  the  left  of  the  church  a  road  leads  to  (8min.) 
S.  Giovanni  (see  below). 

Passing  to  the  right  of  S.  Lucia,  and  turning  to  the  right  again 
after  10  min.,  above  the  cypress-planted  modern  cemetery  (Hypo- 
geum;  in  and  near  which  extensive  foundations,  perhaps  of  the 
Temple  of  Ceres,  have  been  recently  discovered),  we  reach  (5  min.) 
a  suppressed  Capuchin  Monastery,  now  a  farm.  The  neighbouring 
*Latomia  de'  Cappuccini  is  one  of  the  wildest  and  grandest  of 
these  ancient  quarries ,  and  it  was  here  probably  that  the  7000 
captive  Athenians  languished.  A  monument  to  Mazzini  was  erected 
here  in  1880.  To  obtain  admission  (20-30  c),  we  ring  the  bell  at 
the  house  to  the  left  of  the  monastery. 

We  retrace  our  steps,  but  after  5  min.,  above  the  cemetery,  we 
go  straight  on  by  a  low  wall,  and  in  5  min.  more  reach  a  road  as- 
cending to  the  upper  Achradina.  Following  this  road  to  the  left  be- 
tween garden-walls  for  5  min.,  we  reach  the  Villa  Landolina  (last 
door  on  the  right),  the  property  of  Principe  Terlani,  situated  in  a 
small  latomia,  and  containing  the  tomb  of  the  German  poet  A.  v.  Pla- 
ten (d.  1835).  —  A  few  paces  farther  we  reach  a  road  coming  from 
S.  Lucia;  we  follow  it  to  the  right,  and  turning  to  the  right  again 
after  3  min.  we  observe  the  facade  of  S.  Giovanni  before  us.  — Those 
who  do  not  visit  the  Villa  Landolina  cross  the  road  mentioned  above, 
which  ascends  to  the  Achradina,  and  go  straight  on.  On  the  right, 
after  5  min.,  is  the  Latomia  Casale,  in  which  the  Marchese  Casale 
has  laid  out  a  flower-garden  (now  neglected).  —  From  this  point  we 
observe  the  Catania  road,  and  to  the  left  the  church  of  S.Giovanni. 

S.  Giovanni  was  founded  in  1182,  but  afterwards  frequently 
restored,  so  that  parts  of  the  W.  facade,  remarkable  for  its  rose- 
window,  and  the  portal  are  all  that  remain  of  the  original  building. 
A  flight  of  steps  descends  from  the  church  to  the  Crypt  of  St.  Mar- 
tian, which  dates  from  the  4th  century.  This  lower  church,  built 
in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross  ,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  Sicily, 
and  stood  in  connection  with  the  Catacombs.  On  each  side  is  an 
apse,  except  on  the  W.,  where  it  is  approached  by  steps.  It  con- 
tains the  tomb  of  St.  Marcian,  who  is  said  to  have  suffered  martyr- 
dom, bound  to  one  of  the  granite  columns  now  placed  here.  On 
the  walls  are  the  remains  of  old  frescoes. 

Near  S.  Giovanni  is  the  entrance  to  the  Catacombs  (enquire  for 
the  custodian  at  S.  Giovanni ;  fee  1  fr.).  —  The  ''Catacombs  of 
Syracuse  are  among  the  most  imposing  burial-places  of  the  kind 
known.  The  part  usually  visited  extends  under  the  anterior  terrace 
of  the  Achradina  in  one  story,  which  has  been  partially  excavated 
for  a  distance  of  about  100  yds.  It  dates  from  the  4th  cent.  A.D., 
and  not  from  an  ante- Christian  period  as  sometimes  supposed.  The 
large  circular  chambers,  among  which  the  'Eotonda  d'Antiochia'  is 
the  most  notable ,  are  a  peculiarity  of  these  catacombs.  Of  the 
mural   decorations   few  traces  are  now  left.     The   early-Christian 


Catacombs.  SYRACUSE.  39.  Route.     363 

sarcophagus  in  the  Museum  (p.  355)  was  found  here  in  1872. 
—  The  upper  story  of  the  catacombs  in  the  adjacent  Vigna  Cassia 
was  also  constructed  in  the  4th  cent.,  but  the  lower  story,  to  which 
access  is  difficult,  is  earlier  and  seems  to  be  very  extensive.  Other 
early-Christian  tombs  have  been  found  between  S.  Lucia  and  the 
Latomia  de'  Cappuccini. 

The  Catania  road  passes  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  W.  of  S. 
Giovanni;  and  we  reach  it  at  the  point  where  the  above-mentioned 
path  to  the  Amphitheatre  and  the  Greek  Theatre  diverges.  —  About 
5  min.  to  the  N.  of  that  point ,  to  the  left  of  the  road ,  are  the 
so  -  called  Tombs  of  Timoleon  and  Archimedes  ,  with  late  -  Doric 
facades,  and  arbitrarily  named.  The  tomb  of  Archimedes ,  which 
was  re-discovered  by  Cicero,  was  probably  outside  the  town. 

If  time  permits ,  the  traveller  should  not  omit  to  follow  the 
Catania  road  to  the  N.  as  far  as  the  point  where  it  intersects  the 
ancient  fortifications  of  the  Tyche  quarter  and  descends  to  the  coast 
(Scala  Oreca),  4  M.  from  the  town-gate.  The  *View  thence  of  the 
sea  and  Mtna,  is  one  of  the  finest  near  Syracuse.  —  We  may  then 
follow  the  hills  to  the  right  as  far  as  the  Tonnara  of  S.  Panagia, 
and  skirt  the  upper  margin  of  the  picturesque  gorge,  overgrown  with 
oleanders.  From  the  S.E.  end  of  the  gorge  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of 
Mt.  iEtna.  We  then  return  along  theE.  boundary  of  the  Achradina, 
the  fortifications  of  which  are  still  partly  traceable.  This  walk  (to 
the  Latomia  de'  Cappuccini)  takes  i1/^-2  hrs. 

A  charming  Walk  is  afforded  by  a  circuit  of  the  various  Latomie, 
looking  down  upon  them  from  above.  We  begin  with  the  Latomia  de'  Cap- 
puccini, and  proceed  thence  to  the  Latomie  Casale,  S.  Venera  (Targia), 
Greco,  and  Paradiso.  An  interesting  view  of  the  Lat.  Targia  is  obtained 
from  a  modern  aqueduct,  on  which  we  may  walk.  For  this  excursion  a 
good  guide  (such  as  Salv.  Politi)  is  requisite;  the  detour  by  S.  Giovanni 
may  be  avoided  by  traversing  the  Abela  property. 

When  the  sea  is  calm,  a  pleasant  "Excursion  by  Boat  (l:/2-2  fr.)  may 
be  taken  to  the  caverns  in  the  coast  of  the  Achradina ,  situated  beyond 
the  rocky  islets  of  the  Due  Fratelli,  between  the  small  harbour  and  the 
Capo  Panagia  (the  Grotta  di  Nettuno  and  others). 

III.  The  Anapo,  Olympibtjm,  and  Cyane. 

This  excursion  takes  3-4  hrs.,  and  is  usually  made  in  a  boat  with 
three  rowers  (to  the  Cyane  Fountain  6-8  fr.  and  fee).  If  tho  sea  is  rough, 
travellers  may  prefer  to  drive  to  the  mouth  of  the  Anapo.  The  trip  up 
the  river  is  pleasant,  but  very  troublesome  for  the  boatmen  owing  to  its 
narrowness  and  the  thickness  of  the  water-plants.  About  halfway  the 
railway  crosses  the  river.  Walkers  may  ascend  by  a  small  embankment 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Anapo,  and  then,  beyond  the  railway,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Cyane  as  far  as  the  papyrus-plants,  but  the  spring 
itself,  on  account  of  its  marshy  environs  can  only  be  reached  by  boat. 
'—  The  two  columns  of  the  Olympieum  (of  no  great  interest)  may  be  visit- 
ed either  in  going  or  returning.  The  hill  can  only  be  approached  on  the 
E. ,  JT.,  or  N.W.  side,  as  the  ground    on  the  other  sides  is  very  marshy. 

The  road  to  Noto,  which  leads  to  the  S.W.  of  the  circular  space 
mentioned  at  p.  357,  runs  at  first  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
shore  of  the  Great  Harbour ,  traversing  the  swamps  of  Syraco  and 


364     Route  39.  SYRACUSE.  Olympieum. 

Lysimelia.  Beyond  the  2nd  kilometre-stone  (H/4  M.)  it  crosses 
the  Anapo  (Anapus),  which  rises  on  the  hills  to  the  "W.  and  falls 
into  the  harbour  of  Syracuse  after  a  winding  course  of  about  16  M. 

On  a  height  (60  ft.  above  the  sea),  a  little  to  the  S.W.  of 
this  point,  not  far  from  the  confluence  of  the  two  streams , 
stands  a  conspicuous  and  solitary  pair  of  columns.  A  rough 
road  leads  towards  them  from  the  Anapo  bridge  in  10  min., 
but  before  it  enters  a  hollow  we  take  a  footpath  to  the 
right.  These  very  mutilated  columns,  to  which  the  path  does  not 
lead  the  whole  way,  stand  in  the  middle  of  the  fields ,  and  now 
form  the  sole  remains  of  the  famous  01ympieumP  or  temple  of  the 
Olympian  Zeus,  dating  from  the  earliest  Syracusan  period  (pe- 
ripteral hexastyle).  Gelon  provided  the  statue  of  Zeus,  the  beauty 
of  which  is  extolled  by  Cicero,  with  a  golden  robe  from  the  spoil 
of  Himera,  which  Dionysius  I.  removed  as  being  'too  cold  in  winter, 
and  too  heavy  for  summer'.  —  As  this  was  a  point  of  strategic  im- 
portance, it  was  usually  made  the  basis  of  operations  when  the 
city  was  besieged.  In  493  Hippocrates  of  Gela  established  his  head- 
quarters here.  At  the  beginning  of  the  Athenian  siege  (415)  the 
Olympieum  was  taken  by  Nicias  by  a  coup-de-main ,  but  fearing 
the  wrath  of  the  gods  he  did  not  venture  to  take  possession  of 
the  treasures  it  contained.  At  a  later  period  the  Syracusans 
fortified  it  and  surrounded  it  with  a  small  fortified  town  (Po- 
lichne) ;  but  this  did  not  prevent  Himilco  in  396  and  Hamilcar  in 
310  from  pitching  their  camps  here;  and  in  213  Marcellus  suc- 
ceeded in  gaining  possession  of  the  spot.  The  surrounding  marshes, 
however,  were  fraught  with  peril  to  the  besiegers.  Fine  *View  of 
Syracuse.  Near  the  Olympieum  were  situated  the  handsome  tombs 
of  Gelon  and  his  self-sacrificing  wife  Damarata. 

The  hill  on  which  the  Olympieum  stands  is  washed  on  the  W. 
by  the  Cyane  Brook,  the  upper  part  of  which  is  remarkable  for  the 
great  luxuriance  of  the  surrounding  vegetation.  On  both  banks,  par- 
ticularly in  autumn,  rise  lofty  papyrus-plants,  some  of  them  20  ft. 
in  height,  planted  here  by  the  Arabs,  and  imparting  a  strange  and 
almost  tropical  character  to  the  scene.  The  stream  has  its  source 
in  the  Fountain  of  Cyane,  the  'azure  spring',  into  which  the  nymph 
of  that  name  was  metamorphosed  for  opposing  Pluto  when  he  was 
carrying  Proserpine  to  the  infernal  regions.  The  Syracusans  used  to 
celebrate  an  annual  festival  here  in  honour  of  Proserpine.  The  clear 
spring,  which  abounds  with  fish,  and  is  bordered  with  papyrus,  is 
now  called  La  Pisma. 

From  Syracuse  to  Noto,  see  p.  306;  to  Floridia  and  Palazzolo,  p.  307. 


365 


40.   Sardinia. 


Steamboats  (Societa  Florio-Rubattino).  1.  From  Leghorn,  a.  Every 
Frid.  at  midnight  to  Cagliari  in  32  hrs. ;  returning  from  Cagliari  on  Thurs. 
at  9  p.m.  b.  Every  Tues.  at  3  p.m.,  via  Maddalena,  Capo  Figari,  and  the 
other  ports  on  the  E.  coast,  to  Cagliari  in  40  hrs.;  returning  from  Cagliari 
on  Mon.  at  8  a.m.  c.  Every  Thurs.  at  10  a.m.  via  Bastia  (Corsica),  Porto 
Torres,  Alghero,  and  the  other  ports  on  the  W.  coast,  to  Cagliari,  arriving 
on  Mon.  afternoon;  returning  from  Cagliari  on  Thurs.  at  7  a.m.,  arriving 
in  Leghorn  on  Sun.  at  4  p.m.  d.  Every  Sun.  at  noon,  via  Capraja,  Madda- 
lena, and  Santa  Teresa,  to  Porto  Torres,  in  16  hrs. ;  returning  on  Wed.  at 
9  a.m.  —  2.  From  Civita  Vecchia  daily  at  4  p.m.  to  Capo  Figari  in  11  hrs. 
—  3.  From  Naples  to  Cagliari  every  Sat.  at  11  a.m.  in  27  hrs. ;  return- 
ing on  Thurs.  at  noon.  —  4.  From  Palermo  to  Cagliari  weekly  (Sat.  at 
2  p.m.)  in  22  hrs.;  returning  on  Thurs.  at  2  p.m.  —  5.  From  Tcnis  to 
Cagliari  every  Wed.  at  1  a.m.  in  17  hrs. ;  returning  on  Sun.  at  7  p.m.  — 
A  steamer  also  plies  along  the  E.  coast  between  Cagliari  and  Capo  Figari 
every  Sun.  and  Sat.,  in  24  hrs. 

Geography  and  Climate.  Sardinia  (Ital.  Sardegna,  Greek  Sardo), 
situated  between  38°  52'  and  41°  16'  N.  latitude,  and  separated  from 
Corsica  by  the  Strait  of  Bonifacio,  is,  next  to  Sicily,  the  largest  island  iu 
the  Mediterranean.  Its  length  from  N.  to  S.  is  174  M.,  its  breadth  from 
E.  to  W.  70  M.,  area  9463  sq.  M.,  population  (in  1890)  726,500  souls. 
About  nine-tenths  of  the  island  are  mountainous ;  the  only  extensive  plain 
is  that  which  lies  between  the  bays  of  Cagliari  and  Oristano.  The 
mountains,  corresponding  in  direction  with  those  of  Corsica,  stretch  from 
N.  to  S. ;  their  chief  formation,  especially  in  the  N.  portion,  is  granite, 
next  to  which  are  tertiary  rocks,  here  and  there  broken  by  extinct  vol- 
canoes. The  central  part  of  the  island  is  much  less  elevated  than  Corsica, 
but  of  considerably  greater  breadth.  Bruncu  Spina,  the  highest  peak  of 
the  Gennargenlu,  is  6290  ft.  in  height.  There  are  no  rivers  of  importance 
in  the  island ;  the  largest  is  the  Tirso,  which  falls  into  the  Bay  of  Oristano  ; 
the  Bosa  or  Temo  descends  to  the  W.  coast,  the  Coghinas  to  the  N.,  and  the 
Flumendoia  to  the  E.  —  Sardinia  is  surrounded  by  a  number  of  smaller 
islands,  such  as  Asinara,  La  Maddalena,  Caprera  (residence  of  Garibaldi), 
and  Tavolara  on  the  N.,  and  S.  Antioco  and  S.  Pietro  on  the  S.W.  The 
coast  is  somewhat  monotonous  and  uninteresting ;  the  finest  part  is  on 
the  S.  side,  where  the  Bay  of  Cagliari  is  situated.  Sardinia  was  once  one 
of  the  granaries  of  Kome,  but  owing  to  the  sparseness  of  the  population  has 
now  lost  all  claim  to  such  a  distinction.  A  large  proportion  of  the  soil 
is  uncultivated,  whilst  among  the  mountains  about  one-fifth  of  the  area 
is  clothed  with  forest.  Cattle ,  oil  (chiefly  from  Bosa),  and  wine  are 
exported,  several  different  varieties  of  the  last  being  prodnced,  including 
a  white  wine  like  sherry.  The  chief  exports,  however,  are  the  products 
of  the  mines,  the  most  important  of  which  are  MonteveccJiio  (lead),  Monte- 
poni  (lead  and  zinc),  and  La  Duchessa  and  Buggern  (cadmia),  the  united 
yield  of  which  amounts  to  about  80,000  tons  yearly.  Silver  is  produced  in 
Montenarba  (to  the  annual  value  of  upwards  of  l1/*  million  francs),  and  anti- 
mony in  Su  Suergiu  (about  350-400  tons  yearly).  Most  of  the  mines  are_  worked 
by  foreign  capitalists.  The  construction  of  railways  and  roads  is  being 
vigorously  prosecuted,  and  has  already  caused  a  considerable  increase  of 
traffic.  On  the  whole,  however,  the  development  of  the  island  is  still 
too  recent  to  admit  of  comparison  with  the  mainland.  Then  the  malaria, 
or  Intemperie  as  it  is  called  here,  renders  the  island,  with  the  exception 
of  the  larger  towns,  uninhabitable  for  strangers  from  July  to  October. 
Fever,  which  prevails  principally  on  the  low  ground,  frequently  extends 
its  ravages  to  a  considerable  height,  in  consequence  of  which  the  mines 
are  deserted  during  the  period  above  mentioned.  The  natives,  however, 
appear  to  be  habituated  to  dangers  which  would  often  prove  fatal  to 
strangers.  The  principal  precaution  they  use  consists  in  wearing  fleeces, 
a  usual  costume  of  the  Sardinian  shepherds,  who,  to  the  no  small  sur- 
prise of  travellers,  present  the  appearance  of  being  closely  enveloped  in 
fur  under  the  scorching  rays  of  a  July  sun. 


366     Route  40.  SARDINIA.  Antiquities. 

Customs  and  Characteristics.  The  Sardinians,  who  are  of  the  same 
race  as  the  Corsicans,  and  probably  belong  to  the  Iberian  family,  more 
resemble  the  Spaniards  than  the  Italians  in  character,  and  this  peculiarity 
was  doubtless  confirmed  by  the  long  duration  of  the  Spanish  supremacy. 
Their  demeanour  is  grave  and  dignified  compared  with  that  of  the  vivacious 
Italians,  and  exhibits  a  frequent  tendency  to  melancholy.  The  national 
costume  is  gradually  becoming  less  common.  The  Sardinians  are  still 
noted  for  their  unwavering  fidelity  to  their  sovereign,  their  chivalric  sense 
of  honour,  and  their  hospitality.  The  language  consists  of  a  number  of 
dialects,  differing  widely  in  many  of  their  roots ;  several  of  them  closely 
resemble  Spanish,  or  rather  Latin  (e.  g.  bona  dies,  good  day).  Strangers 
will  generally  find  it  impossible  to  understand  or  make  themselves  under- 
stood by  the  country-people,  though  there  are  usually  some  who  speak 
Italian  in  each  village. 

Antiquities.  The  antiquities  of  Sardinia  are  also  in  keeping  with  the 
other  peculiarities  of  the  country.  Those  which  date  from  the  periods  of 
the  Carthaginian  and  Roman  supremacy  or  from  the  middle  ages  are  far 
inferior  to  those  of  Italy  and  Sicily.  Unusual  interest,  however,  attaches  to 
the  curious  relics  of  a  far  more  remote  and  even  pre-historic  epoch.  These 
are  the  so-called  Nuraghi,  conical  monuments  with  truncated  summits,  30- 
60  ft.  in  height,  35-100  ft.  in  diameter  at  the  base,  constructed  sometimes 
of  hewn,  and  sometimes  of  unhewn  blocks  of  stone  without  mortar.  They 
are  situated  either  on  isolated  eminences  among  the  mountains,-  or  on  ar- 
tificial mounds  on  the  plains ,  and  usually  occur  in  groups  varying  in 
number  from  three  or  four  to  two  hundred.  They  generally  contain  two  (in 
some  rare  instances  three)  conically  vaulted  chambers,  one  above  the  other, 
and  a  spiral  staircase  constructed  in  the  thick  walls  ascends  to  the  upper 
stories.  Of  the  various  conjectures  which  have  been  formed  as  t6  the  purpose 
served  by  these  enigmatical  structures,  the  most  prevalent  now  is  that  they 
were  erected  by  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the  island  as  places  of  refuge  in 
case  of  hostile  attacks.  The  Giants'  Graves  (  Tumbas  de  los  Gigantes),  oblong 
piles  of  stones  3-6  ft.  in  breadth  and  15-36  ft.  long,  are  believed  to  belong 
to  the  same  remote  period  and  to  be  really  monumental  tombs.  The  Perdas 
fittas,  or  Perdas  lungas,  monuments  of  stone  corresponding  to  the  Celtic 
menhirs  and  dolmens,  are  of  much  rarer  occurrence  in  Sardinia. 

Travelling.  —  The  most  suitable  season  for  a  visit  to  Sardinia  is  from 
the  middle  of  April  to  the  middle  of  June,  after  which  dangerous  fevers 
are  very  prevalent  down  to  the  beginning  of  November.  About  500  M.  of 
Railways  were  open  for  traffic  in  1892  (comp.  the  Map),  of  which  225 M. 
were  narrow-gauge.  Diligences  run  on  the  principal  high-roads  daily. 
The  vehicles  are  generally  similar  to  those  on  the  mainland,  but  are  some- 
times very  uncomfortable  two-wheeled  machines  called  Saltafoss.  The  most 
interesting  points  in  the  island,  however,  can  only  be  reached  on  Horse- 
back. As  moreover  the  language  cannot  be  understood  except  through  the 
medium  of  an  interpreter,  the  services  of  a  guide  are  indispensable;  and 
the  traveller  is  recommended  to  secure  the  services  of  a  guide  (viandante) 
well  acquainted  with  the  country,  and  two  horses  for  the  whole  expedition. 
The  charges  depend  entirely  upon  circumstances;  e.g.  the  greater  or  less 
amount  of  field-labour  at  the  time,  and  therefore  vary  very  much.  The 
Inns  are  very  mediocre,  and  away  from  the  railways  are  sometimes  quite 
intolerable.  Letters  of  introduction  to  some  of  the  inhabitants  of  Sassari 
or  Cagliari  are  therefore  most  desirable ;  and,  once  provided  with  these, 
the  stranger  will  have  little  difficulty  in  procuring  others  to  enable  him 
to  make  his  way  through  the  greater  part  of  the  island.  Sardinian  hos- 
pitality is  remarkable  for  the  cordiality  and  courtesy  with  which  it  is 
accorded.  The  etiquette  of  the  household  of  his  host  may,  however,  fre- 
quently prove  irksome  to  the  weary  traveller,  who  will  sometimes  be  obliged 
to  wait  several  hours  before  he  can  satisfy  the  cravings  of  his  unwonted 
appetite.  The  upper  classes  generally  dine  between  1  and  2  o'clock,  and 
sup  between  9  and  11.  Remuneration  for  hospitality  is  invariably  declined, 
but  a  liberal  fee  should  be  given  to  the  servants  (2-5  fr.  per  day  according 
to  circumstances).  —  Public  security,  as  recent  occurrences  testify,  can- 
not be  everywhere  guaranteed. 


History.  SARDINIA.  40.  Route.     367 

History.  Of  the  more  civilised  nations  of  antiquity  the  Phoenicians 
were  the  earliest  settlers  in  Sardinia.  The  roads  of  Caralis  (Cagliari)  and 
Sulcis  (S.  Antioco)  afforded  shelter  to  the  Phoenician  ships  when  over- 
taken by  storms  on  their  way  to  Tarshish;  and  the  Carthaginians  ulti- 
mately subdued  the  greater  part  of  the  island.  During  their  supremacy, 
and  even  during  that  Of  their  successors  the  Romans ,  the  interior  of 
the  island  preserved  its  independence  to  some  extent.  Traces  of  the 
Phoenician  epoch  are  recognisable  in  a  few  Punic  inscriptions  still  extant, 
and  in  the  scarabsei,  or  stones  cut  in  the  form  of  beetles  and  worn  in 
rings,  presenting  a  thoroughly  Oriental  appearance.  [The  innumerable 
little  distorted  figures  of  bronze ,  formerly  taken  for  Phoenician  idols,  are 
probably  forgeries.]  In  B.C.  238,  shortly  after  the  First  Punic  War,  Sardinia 
was  wrested  from  the  Carthaginians  by  the  Romans,  who  found  it  an  in- 
valuable acquisition  on  account  of  the  productiveness  of  its  fields  and  its 
mines.  Criminals  condemned  for  grave  offences,  and  subsequently  numerous 
Christians,  were  compelled  to  work  in  these  mines.  The  Romans  themselves 
shunned  the  island  as  being  unhealthy  and  imperfectly  cultivated,  whilst 
they  manifested  little  partiality  for  the  proud  and  independent  spirit  of 
the  natives,  which  neither  war  nor  persecution  could  entirely  extinguish. 
Great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  were  brought  to  Rome  and  sold  as  slaves 
at  a  merely  nominal  price,  for  even  during  servitude  they  maintained 
their  indomitable  character  and  formed  no  very  desirable  acquisition  to 
their  purchasers  (whence  the  Roman  expression  Sardi  venales,  'as  cheap 
as  a  Sardinian1). 

In  458  the  Vandals  made  an  expedition  against  Sardinia  from  Africa 
and  conquered  the  island.  Under  Justinian,  in  533,  it  was  recaptured  for 
the  Eastern  Empire.  The  weakness  of  the  latter,  combined  with  the  un- 
remitting attacks  of  the  Saracens,  favoured  the  gradual  rise  of  native 
princes,  who  recognised  the  pope  as  their  patron  and  protector.  When  at 
length  the  Arabs  began  to  establish  themselves  permanently  in  the  island, 
John  XVIII.  preached  a  crusade  (1004)  against  the  infidels ,  promising  to 
bestow  the  island  on  those  who  should  succeed  in  expelling  them.  This  was 
effected  by  the  united  efforts  of  the  Genoese  and  Pisans ,  and  their  rival 
claims  were  decided  in  favour  of  Pisa  in  1025.  The  island  was  divided 
into  four  districts,  Cagliari,  Torres  or  Logudoro ,  Gallura,  and  Arborea, 
which  were  presided  over  by  'Giudicf  or  judges.  Neither  Genoa,  however, 
renounced  her  claim,  nor  the  papal  see  its  supremacy ;  and  the  Giudici, 
profiting  by  these  disputes,  succeeded  meanwhile  in  establishing  themselves 
as  independent  princes,  and  governed  the  island  in  accordance  with  its 
national  laws  and  customs.  In  1297  Boniface  VIII.  invested  the  kings  of 
Aragon  with  Sardinia,  and  they,  after  protracted  struggles,  succeeded  in 
putting  down  the  pretensions  of  Genoa,  as  well  as  those  of  Pisa.  The 
most  distinguished  of  the  native  princes  was  the  Giudichessa  Eleonora  of 
Arborea  (d.  1404),  whose  contests  with  Aragon  and  whose  code  of  laws, 
the  'Carta  de  Logu1  (del  luogo),  attained  great  local  celebrity.  This  code 
was  constituted  the  law  of,  the  whole  island  by  Alphonso  of  Aragon  in 
1421,  and  Eleonora's  name  is  still  the  most  popular  among  those  of  the 
earlier  history  of  Sardinia.  In  1455  a  parliament  (Cortes)  was  established, 
consisting  of  three  estates  (stamenti),  the  nobles,  the  clergy,  and  the  towns, 
whose  principal  business  was  the  voting  of  taxes.  Under  Ferdinand  the 
Catholic  in  1479  the  native  princes  were  deprived  of  their  independence, 
and  the  island  was  now  governed,  to  the  universal  satisfaction  of  the  inhab- 
itants, by  Spanish  Viceroys.  After  the  War  of  Succession  Spain  was  com- 
pelled by  the  Peace  of  Utrecht,  in  1714,  to  surrender  the  island  to  the 
House  of  Austria,  who  in  1720  ceded  it  to  Victor  Amadeus  II.,  Duke  of 
Savoy,  in  exchange  for  Sicily.  Thenceforth  Sardinia  participated  in  the 
fortunes  of  this  family,  and  afforded  it  refuge  and  protection  during  the 
supremacy  of  Napoleon.  A  determined  attack  on  the  island  by  the  French, 
accompanied  by  Buonaparte  himself,  in  1793,  proved  a  signal  failure. 
In  consequence  of  the  Treaty  of  Paris  in  1720  the  Duke  of  Savoy  assumed 
the  title  of  King  of  Sardinia,  which  was  exchanged  in  1861  for  that  of 
King  of  Italy. 

Literature.    The  principal  work  on  Sardinia  is  by  Count  Alberto  Fer- 


368     Route  40.  CAGLIARI.  Sardinia. 

rero  della  Marmora  and  is  entitled  '  Voyage  en  Sardaigne  ou  Description 
statistique ,  physique,  et  politique ,  de  cette  Isle''  (Paris  et  Turin ,  1839-60 
5  vols.).  An  admirable  '  Carta  dell'  Isola  e  Regno  di  Sardegna\  in  two  sheets 
(pub.  1845,  with  additions  down  to  1860,  price  4  fr.),  has  also  been  published 
by  the  same  author.  A  good  account  of  the  geology  of  the  island  is  given  in 
a  German  work  by  O.  vom  Rath  (lZwei  Reisen  in  Sardinieti').  A  history 
of  Sardinia  down  to  1773  was  published  in  1825  by  Baron  Giuseppe  Manno 
(Torino),  and  has  gone  through  several  editions.  The  same  author  also 
wrote  a  Storia  Moderna  (1773-99),  which  appeared  in  1842  and  again  in 
1858  (Le  Monnier,  at  Florence),  containing  a  short  review  of  the  earlier 
history.  The  effects  of  the  French  revolution  on  Sardinia  and  the  attacks 
of  the  French  upon  the  island  are  here  fully  and  attractively  described. 
Antiquarian  research  in  Sardinia  has  been  chiefly  promoted  by  the  patriotic 
Canonico  Giovanni  Spano,  Rector  of  the  university  of  Cagliari  (Bullettino 
Archeologico  Sardo,  with  several  smaller  annual  publications).  Comp.  also 
La  Sardegna  Prima  del  Dominio  Romano,  by  Ettore  Pais  (Rome,  1881 ;  in 
the  'Atti  dei  Lincei') ;  La  Sardaigne  a  vol  d'oiseau,  by  Baron  Roissard  de 
Bellet  (Paris,  1884) ;  and  Sardinia  and  its  Resources,  by  Robert  Tennant 
(London,  1885). 

Cagliari. 

Hotel.  Scala  di  Feeeo,  Via  di  S.  Eulalia,  with  trattoria,  R.  2!/2-3  fr. ; 
the  rooms  in  the  house  opposite,  belonging  to  the  same  landlord,  are  un- 
comfortable. —  Cafes.  Scala  di  Feiro,  in  the  hotel  of  the  same  name; 
Concordia,  Strada  di  Roma. 

Baths.   Bagni  Cerruti,  Via  S.  Rosalia  22 ;  Sea-baths  at  Citta  di  Cagliari. 

Post  Office,  Via  S.  Rosalia,  opposite  the  house  of  the  Commandant. 
—  Telegraph  Office,  Piazza  S.  Carlo. 

British  Consul.  Mr.  E.  Pernis,  Via  Roma  3  (office-hours  8-4)..  —  U.  S. 
Consular  Agent,  Sig.  Alphonse  Dol. 

Steamboat  Office  of  the  Societa  Floria-  Rubaltino,  Palazzo  Devoto,  Via 
Roma,  opposite  the  harbour. 

Diligences.  Office,  Contrada  Yenne  (to  the  left  when  reached  from 
the   large   piazza).     To  S.   Pietro  Pula  (p.  371)  twice  daily,   in   3V2-4  hrs. 

Wine  of  the  country  indifferent.  Vernaccia,  a  finer  quality,  strong, 
but  acid,  2-3  fr.  per  bottle ;  Simbirizzi,  good  and  cheap ;  Malvasia  and 
Muscato,  sweet.  —  The  Bread  of  Sardinia  is  excellent.  Pardulas  is  a 
favourite  kind  of  cake.  Various  other  national  cakes  and  kinds  of  pastry 
may  be  tried  at  Cagliari  on  festivals. 

Cdgliari,  the  Caralis  of  the  Romans,  a  very  ancient  town 
founded  by  the  Phoenicians,  the  capital  of  the  island,  with  38,600 
inhab.,  lies  on  an  extensive  bay,  bounding  the  flat  district  at  the 
>S.  end  of  the  island,  and  terminated  on  the  W.  by  Capo  Sparti- 
vento  and  on  the  E.  by  Capo  Carbonara.  To  the  E.  of  the  town 
projects  the  Capo  di  8.  Elia,  which  forms  one  extremity  of  the 
Oolfo  di  Quartu.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  extensive  lagoons, 
the  Stagno  di  Cagliari  on  the  W.  and  the  Stagno  di  Molentargiu  on 
the  E.  side.  These  yield  abundance  of  salt,  which  forms  the  cargo 
of  numerous  vessels,  particularly  from  Sweden  and  Finland,  when 
returning  home  after  having  brought  supplies  of  pine-wood  to 
Spain  and  Italy.  Cagliari  is  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  precipitous 
hill,  290  ft.  in  height,  and  consists  of  four  distinct  quarters :  the 
old  town  or  Castello  (Sard.  Casteddu);  below  it  to  the  E.  the  Villa 
Nuova;  and  lastly  Marina  and  Stampace. 

The  spacious  Piazza  del  Mekcato,  embellished  with  a  bronze 
Statue  of  Charles  Felix  I.,  erected  in  1860  to  commemorate  the 


Sardinia.  OAGLIARI.  40.  Route.     369 

construction  of  the  road  to  Porto  Torres,  forms  the  central  point  of 
the  modern  quarters  of  the  town.  It  is  separated  from  the  Piazza 
Ybnnb,  in  which  rises  an  ancient  column  with  inscriptions,  hy  the 
Via  Carlo  Felice,  which  is  prolonged  towards  the  lower  town  as  the 
Corso  Vittobio  Emandble  and  towards  the  upper  as  the  Via 
Manno.  The  Corso  is  the  busiest  street  in  Cagliari,  with  numerous 
shops,  where  among  other  things  the  gold  ornaments  commonly 
worn  by  the  country-people  should  be  observed.  In  the  continua- 
tion of  the  Corso,  called  the  Strada  di  Roma,  a  few  ancient  Roman 
houses  have  recently  been  excavated,  one  of  which  contains  an  in- 
teresting triclinium  with  coloured  mosaics.  The  street  leads  to  a 
small  piazza  (to  the  right  the  Cafe  Concordia),  and  then  descends 
to  Villa  Nuova.    To  the  left  it  ascends  in  two  zigzags  to  the  — 

Castle,  which  still  has  its  ancient  gates,  and  contains  the  chief 
buildings  and  the  palaces  of  the  nobility.  Three  terraces  laid  out 
on  the  old  bastion  of  S.  Caterina ,  on  the  right ,  connected  by 
flights  of  steps  and  planted  with  shady  pine-trees,  command  a  fine 
*View,  and  form  one  of  the  most  beautiful  points  in  the  town. 
Here  is  situated  the  Teatro  Civico,  which  is  well  fitted  up. 

The  street  to  the  left  leads  to  the  University,  founded  in  1596 
by  Philip  III.  of  Spain,  and  remodelled  in  1764  by  Charles  Em- 
manuel of  Savoy.  The  library  contains  22,000  vols.;  among  the 
MSS.  are  the  Pergamene  di  Arborea,  which,  except  in  Sardinia 
itself,  are  generally  regarded  as  modern  forgeries.  Inside  the  uni- 
versity, opposite  the  entrance,  is  the  colossal  figure  of  a  Roman 
provincial  official  of  high  rank ,  clad  in  a  toga ;  this  statue  was 
found  at  S.  Antioco  (p.  371). 

The  Museum  contains  geological  and  mineralogioal  collections 
formed  by  La  Marmora,  whose  bust  is  placed  in  the  archaeological 
saloon,  and  the  most  complete  collection  of  Sardinian  antiquities 
(to  which  valuable  contributions  have  been  made  by  the  Cavalierc 
Spano) ,  including  epitaphs,  milestones,  vessels  of  earthenware  and 
glass,  coins,  and  figures  in  bronze. 

Proceeding  from  the  Museum  through  the  Porta  Aquila  under 
the  Palazzo  Boyl,  we  enter  the  fortress. 

From  the  entrance  to  the  old  town  the  narrow  main  street 
leads  in  a  straight  direction  in  a  few  minutes  to  a  flight  of  steps 
ascending  on  the  right  to  the  Cathedral,  completed  in  1312  by 
the  Pisans,  but  afterwards  altered  and  modernised.  Baroque  facade 
of  1703. 

At  the  principal  entrance  are  two  "Ambones  with  scenes  from  Scripture 
history.  —  In  the  N.  transept  is  the  tomb  of  Martin  II.  of  Aragon  (d. 
1409).  The  chapels  contain  a  few  monuments  in  the  rococo  style.  —  In 
the  Crypt  is  a  monument  to  the  queen  of  Louis  XVIII.,  a  princess  of  Sa- 
voy (d.  1810),  and  another  to  the  only  son  of  Victor  Emmanuel  I.  (d.  1796). 

We  next  pass  the  Torre  delV  Elefante,  erected  in  1307  by 
the  Pisans,  as  the  metrical  inscription  records,  and  reach  the 
*Buon  Cammino  promenade,   i/2  M-  in  length,  which  affords  a  line 

Baedeker.    Italy  III.    11th  Edition.  24 


370     Route  40.  CAGLIARI.  Sardinia. 

survey  of  the  bay  and  the  mountains  rising  above  it.  (A  still 
finer  point  of  view  is  the  Birreria  Boggetti ,  above  the  promenade, 
on  the  right.)  Immediately  beyond  the  (r.)  Carlo  Alberto  bar- 
racks, erected  in  1847,  a  broad  road  descends  from  the  promenade 
to  the  left  to  the  Capuchin  Monastery,  where  there  are  several  rock- 
hewn  reservoirs  once  connected  with  a  Roman  aqueduct.  Op- 
posite the  monastery  is  the  Amphitheatre,  recently  freed  from  rub- 
bish ,  the  greater  axis  of  which  measures  $&/%  yds. ,  the  lesser 
79  yds.,  while  the  arena  was  about  55  by  34  yds.  A  natural  de- 
pression in  the  rock  which  slopes  hence  towards  the  sea  was 
turned  to  account  in  its  construction ,  and  most  of  the  rows  of 
seats  are  hewn  in  the  rock,  while  the  open  S.  extremity  was  closed 
by  masonry.  From  the  ruinous  condition  of  the  structure  also  it  is 
obvious  that  economy  was  carefully  observed  in  its  erection ;  and 
we  thus  obtain ,  on  comparing  this,  the  most  considerable  ruin  in 
Sardinia,  with  the  magnificent  edifices  of  Italy  and  Southern  France, 
an  additional  indication  of  the  subordinate  importance  attached  to 
the  island  at  that  period. 

The  Environs  of  Oagliari  present  all  the  characteristics  of  a 
southern  land,  the  climate  being  hot,  and  rain  very  scarce ;  but  the 
town  itself,  even  in  summer,  is  generally  free  from  fever.  Here, 
as  in  Sicily  and  Africa ,  the  fields  are  usually  enclosed  with  hedges 
of  cactus.  The  Campidano  di  Cagliari,  an  extensive  plain  stretching 
hence  to  Oristano,  is  fertile  and  tolerably  well  peopled. 

On  a  rocky  plateau ,  1V4  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Cagliari ,  is  situated  an 
extensive  Necropolis.  The  route  to  it  first  passes  the  Punic  Tombs,  con- 
sisting of  subterranean  chambers  hewn  in  the  limestone  rock,  with  symbols 
in  the  Egyptian  style  over  the  entrances.  (Caution  must  be  used,  as  many 
of  the  entrances  are  overgrown  with  plants.)  The  majority  of  these  are 
below  the  Casino  Massa.  Farther  W.  are  the  Roman  Tombs.  Many  of 
these  also  border  the  road  to  the  S.,  leading  through  the  Borgo  di  S. 
Avendrace.  The  finest  of  them  is  the  Grotia  delle  Vipere,  with  a  hand- 
some facade,  being  the  tomb  of  Atilia  Pomptilla  and  her  husband  Cassius 
Philippus,  who  died  here  as  exiles  from  Rome,  as  we  are  informed  by  the 
Latin  and  Greek  inscriptions.    Excellent  view  from  the  top  of  the  plateau. 

From  Cagliari  to  Quartu  ,  4>/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  (omnibus  twice 
daily  each  way  in  1  hr. ;  coupe"  l'/2  fr.).  The  road  starts  from  the  Villa- 
nuova  Quarter  of  the  town.  On  the  right  we  have  a  view  of  the  Capo 
di  S.  Elia  and  a  large  swamp  which  is  a  favourite  haunt  of  the  flamingo 
in  spring.  Quartu ,  a  town  with  6000  inhab. ,  is  worthy  of  a  visit  on  a 
Sunday,  when  the  rich  costumes  and  curious  gold  ornaments  of  Asiatic 
type  worn  by  the  women  are  seen  in  perfection.  The  old-fashioned  Sar- 
dinian round  dance,  accompanied  by  the  rustic  double  flute,  is  also  some- 
times performed  in  the  piazza  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  The  favourite 
delicacies  on  such  festive  occasions  consist  of  porchettu  (roast  pork)  and 
the  excellent  Malvagia  wine  produced  near  Quartu.  On  21st  May  the 
festival  of  St.  Helena  is  celebrated  here ,  the  main  feature  of  it  being  a 
procession  of  richly  decked  oxen. 

From  Cagliari  to  S.  Maria  di  Buonaria,  :/z  nr-  —  We  follow  the 
road  leading  to  the  E.  from  the  Via  di  Buonaria,  and  pass  the  remains 
of  the  very  ancient  church  of  8.  Bardiglio.  The  church  of  S.  Maria  di 
Buonaria  contains  numerous  votive  offerings  from  mariners  and  convicts. 
About  1/2  M.  from  it  there  is  a  large  prison.  In  '/2  hr.  more  we  arrive 
at  the  top  of  the  Capo  S.  Blia,  where  some  rude  attempts  at  hewing  the 
rock  appear  to  indicate  that  an  ancient  settlement  once  existed  here. 


Sardinia.  IGLESIAS.  40.  Route.     371 

The  S.  E.  angle  of  Sardinia  is  the  wildest  and  least  populous 
portion.  Excursions  towards  the  S.  W.  are  more  interesting. 
_  To  Pdla,  I71/2  M.  (by  diligence,  see  p.  368 ;  or  on  horseback).  The  road 
intersects  the  Pima,  a  series  of  sandy  islands  connected  by  numerous 
bridges  and  separating  the  Stagno  di  Cagliari  from  the  sea.  It  passes  Orri 
where  there  is  a  picturesque  country-seat  of  the  Marchese  Villa  Hermosa  ■ 
it  then  leads  to  S.  Pielro  Pula,  and  past  a  ruined  'nurago'  and  a  Roman 
aqueduct  on  the  promontory  of  Pula  (2  M.)  to  the  church  of  £.  Efisio, 
occupying  the  site  of  the  ancient  Nora,  of  which  a  few  traces  (a  quay,  the 
small  theatre  of  La  Leoniera,  etc.)  are  still  visible.  Pula  possesses  ex- 
cellent spring-water,  and  has  therefore  always  been  a  favourite  naval  station. 
In  1804  Nelson  spent  a  considerable  time  here. 

To  Iglesias.  There  are  numerous  mines  in  the  S.W.  part  of  the  is- 
land, of  which  Iglesias  is  the  principal  town.  Railway  thither  (34  II.) 
from  Cagliari ;  two  trains  daily  in  2>/4  hrs. ;  fares  6  fr.  15,  4  fr.  30,  2  fr. 
45  c.  —  The  line  diverges  from  the  main  line  at  Decimomannu  (see  below). 
Stations  Via,  Siliqua,  Musei.  —  Iglesias  [Alb.  del  Leone,  with  trattoria,  R. 
2  fr. ;  Caffi  delta  Orotta,  adjoining  the  cathedral),  a  picturesquely  situated 
town  with  12,000  inhab.,  is  an  episcopal  see  with  a  cathedral  of  1215, 
and  possesses  ancient  walls  and  a  castle  which  was  restored  by  the  Ar- 
agonese  in  1325.  It  also  contains  a  good  engineering  school,  with  some 
interesting  collections.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  gardens, 
the  finest  of  which  belongs  to  the  Dominicans.  —  About  2  M.  from  Igle- 
sias lies  Monteponi  (1095  ft.;  omn.  daily  in  1/2  hr.,  60  c),  near  which  is 
a  very  productive  lead-mine.  A  private  railway  runs  hence  via  0/2  II.) 
Ponte  Cartau,  (3  M.)  Gonnesa,  where  the  omnibus  (mentioned  below)  to  S. 
Antioco  meets  the  train ,  and  (8  M.)  Culmine ,  to  (13  M.)  Porlovesme,  near 
the  fishing-village  of  Porto  Scuso.  To  Carloforte ,  the  chief  place  of  the 
small  island  of  S.  Pietro,  opposite  Porto  Scuso,  by  boat  in  1  hr. 

From  Gonnesa  an  omnibus  plies  daily  in  6  hrs.  to  S.  Antioco  (no 
inn),  a  town  with  3500  inhab.  on  the  small  island  of  the  same  name, 
which  is  separated  from  Sardinia  by  a  narrow  strait  crossed  by  a  bridge. 
Near  the  town,  which  occupies  an  unusually  healthy  situation,  numerous 
relics  of  antiquities  have  been  discovered.  Among  these  are  Fortifications, 
two  Roman  Necropolae,  extensive  Christian  Catacombs,  with  some  tolerably 
well-preserved  frescoes,  and  numerous  Inscriptions.  The  women  of  this 
district  wear  a  very  picturesque  costume. 

To  the  N.  of  Iglesias ,  in  the  middle  of  a  mining  district  which  was 
also  worked  by  the  ancients,  lies  the  ruined  Temple  of  Antas,  called  by 
the  neighbouring  shepherds  the  'Domus  di  Gregori'.  To  reach  it  we  ascend 
on  foot  to  (2V2-3  hrs.)  the  farm  of  S.  Angelo,  where  we  procure  a  guide  to 
lead  us  to  the  (V2  hr.)  ruins. 

From  Cagliari  to  Sassari. 

161  II.  Railway  in  11  hrs.  (one  through-train  daily) ;  fares  29  fr.  40, 
20  fr.  60,  11  fr.  90  c. 

The  train  traverses  the  extensive  plain  of  the  Campidano,  and 
passes  the  Stagno  di  Cagliari.  5  M.  Elmas;  8  M.  Assemini;  lO1^  M. 
Decimomannu,  where  the  line  to  Iglesias  (see  above)  diverges. 

16  M.  Villasor;  20y2M.  Serramanna ;  24  M.  Samassi,  whence 
an  omnibus  plies  daily  to  Laconi  (p.  375). 

28  M.  Sanluri  is  a  large  village  with  a  ruined  castle  and  several 
old  churches,  where  a  son  of  the  Aragonese  king  Martin  defeated 
Brancaleone  Doria  in  1409.  The  manners  and  costume  of  the  peas- 
antry here  are  peculiar.  The  houses  in  the  Campidano  are  built  of 
spongy,  sun-dried  brick. 

31  M.  8.  Oavino.    To  the  right  we  observe  the  castle  of  Mon- 

24* 


372     Route  40.  ORISTANO.  Sardinia. 

reale,  once  the  seat  of  the  Giudioi  of  Arborea,  still  in  excellent 
preservation.  Saffron  is  largely  cultivated  here.  36  M.  Pabillonis; 
43  M.  TJras,  in  a  fertile  plain  at  the  base  of  the  volcanic  Monte 
Aroi,  the  scene  of  a  victory  gained  by  the  Marchese  d'Oristano 
over  the  Spanish  viceroy  in  1470.  —  48  M.  Marrubiu,  whence  an 
omnibus  runs  to  Torralba  (p.  373).  The  train  now  skirts  a  lake 
separated  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land  only  from  the  Bay  of  Oristano. 

59  M.  Oristano  (Casa  Mauca,  Caffe  fy  Albergo  a" Arborea,  both 
indifferent),  a  town  with  7000  inhab.,  the  seat  of  an  archbishop, 
is  situated  on  the  Tirso,  in  a  marshy  locality  in  the  midst  of  an  ex- 
tensive plain.  It  was  founded  in  the  11th  cent,  by  the  inhabitants 
of  the  ancient  Tharrus.  Many  towers  of  the  mediaeval  fortifications 
are  still  standing.  The  palace  in  which  the  Giudici  of  Arborea  re- 
sided is  still  pointed  out.  The  large  Cathedral  of  the  17th  cent, 
contains  several  pictures  by  Marghinotti,  a  modern  Sardinian  artist. 
The  piazza  adjoining  the  cathedral  is  embellished  with  a  marble 
Statue  of  Eleonora  a" Arborea  (p.  367). 

Excursions.  Oristano  itself  is  an  uninviting  place,  but  there  are  several 
pointsf  of  interest  in  the  neighbourhood.  Tharros,  with  its  tombs,  the  richest 
mine  of  antiquities  in  Sardinia,  may  be  reached  on  horseback  in  3-4  hrs. 
Nearly  halfway  to  it  lies  Cabras ,  on  the  salt-lake  Mare  Pontis  (excellent 
fishing),  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  where  Eleonora  of  Arborea  first  accorded 
the  charter  of  liberty  (Carta  de  Logu)  to  her  subjects.  A  good  oppor- 
tunity of  observing  the  native  costumes  is  to  be  had  here  on  Thursdays, 
when  numerous  peasants  from  all  parts  of  the  country  come  to  provide 
themselves  with  fish  for  their  Friday  fast.  Leaving  Cabras,  a  ride  of 
2  hrs.  more  brings  us  to  the  Promontory  of  S.  Marco ,  where  the  abbey- 
church  of  8.  Giovanni  de  Sinis  indicates  the  site  of  the  ancient  town  of 
Tharros.  Farther  S.,  on  the  coast,  is  situated  the  Necropolis,  where  nu- 
merous antiquities  have  been  found.  On  the  brow  of  the  promontory 
there  are  upwards  of  20  nuraghi. 

Another  excursion  is  from  Oristano  (by  carriage  in  272-3  hrs.)  to  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  town  of  Cornus,  situated  on  the  coast  to  the  N.  — 
The  village  of  Milis,  at  the  base  of  Monte  Ferru  (3440  ft.),  may  be  reach- 
ed by  carriage  in  2  hrs. ;  near  it  is  the  charming  country -residence 
of  the  Marchese  Boyl,  with  beautiful  orange-gardens  ,  containing  upwards 
of  300,000  trees  (some  of  them  6  ft.  in  circumference).  —  To  Fordungianus, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tirso,  on  horseback  in  3i/2  hrs.  The  modern 
village  (no  inn)  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Forum.  Trajani,  the  greater 
part  of  which  lies  3-6  ft.  below  the  present  level  of  the  soil.  Relics  of 
antiquity  are  seen  on  every  side.  Near  the  river  is  a  thermal  spring,  with 
the  remains  of  the  Roman  baths.  On  the  opposite  bank,  on  the  way  to 
Villa  Nuova,  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  an  amphitheatre.  The  Casa  del  Comune 
contains  a  collection  of  antiquities.  From  this  point  to  Tonara  or  Aritzo 
■at  the  base  of  Gennargentu  is  a  day's  ride  (comp.  p.  376);  road  to  the 
station  of  Simaxis  (see  below). 

Beyond  Oristano,  of  which  a  fine  retrospect  is  enjoyed,  the 
train  traverses  a  fertile  plain  and  several  green  valleys.  63  M. 
Simaxis,  whence  a  road  leads  to  Fordungianus  (see  above)  ;  64y2  M. 
Solnrussa;  70  M.  Bauladu.  At  (77  M.)  Paulilatino  (3000  inhab.) 
we  observe  a  nurago  and  several  giants'  graves.  The  vegetation  now 
loses  the  African  character  presented  by  the  palms  and  cacti  and 
become  more  like  that  of  Central  Italy.  On  the  left  are  the  heights 
of  Monte  Ferru.   81  M.  Abbasanta;  SliJ2  M.  Borore ;  90  M.  Birori. 


Sardinia.  MAOOMER.  40.  Route.     373 

951/2M.  Macomer  (Albergo  Toscario,  tolerable;  a  new  hotel  was 
recently  opened  near  the  station;  Caffe  Garibaldi),  a  small  town  with 
2500  inhab.,  loftily  situated  (1890  ft.  above  the  sea)  on  the  slope 
of  the  mountains  of  the  Catena  del  Marghine,  commanding  distant 
views  of  the  Gennargentu  and  other  peaks  of  the  central  chain. 
Near  it  lay  the  ancient  Macopsisa,  where  a  number  of  Roman  an- 
tiquities have  been  found.  In  front  of  the  church  are  three  ancient 
milestones,  two  of  Vespasian  and  one  of  Sept.  Severus,  proving  that 
a  Roman  road  once  passed  here.  Macomer  is  connected  by  a  narrow- 
gauge  railway  with  Bosa,  on  the  "W.  coast,  and  Nuoro  (p.  376; 
diligence  hence  to' Orosei  on  the  B.  coast). 

No  district  in  Sardinia  contains  such  a  number  of  Nuraghi  as  the 
environs  of  Macomer.  These  monuments  are  sufficiently  conspicuous,  but 
as  they  are  often  difficult  of  access  owing  to  the  rank  grass  and  under- 
wood surrounding  them,  the  services  of  a  guide  will  be  found  acceptable. 
That  of  ~S.  Barbara,  about  1/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  not  far  from 
the  high-road,  deserves  a  visit  on  account  of  its  excellent  state  of  pre- 
servation. It  is  square  in  form,  and  surrounded  by  four  small  cones. 
Another  similar  monument,  called  Tamuli  (possibly  from  'tumuli'),  is 
about  4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Macomer.  It  is  a  well-preserved  nurago ,  in 
which  were  discovered  curious  idols,  believed  by  La  Marmora  to  be 
Phoenician.  The  platform  commands  an  admirable  view.  About  50  paces 
to  the  E.  of  the  Tamuli,  and  partly  concealed  by  thistles,  are  six  cones 
of  stone  5  ft.  in  height,  three  of  them  with  women's  breasts. 

Beyond  Macomer  the  train  reaches  the  plateau  of  La  Campeda 
(2250  ft.).  101  M.  Campeda;  112  M.  Bonorva,  a  town  with  5000 
inhab. ,  who  are  engaged  in  tilling  the  soil  and  rearing  cattle ; 
116  M.  Oiave.  119  M.  Torralba,  with  the  ancient,  formerly  epi- 
scopal church  of  S.  Pietro  di  Torres  (containing  mediaeval  sculptures), 
and  two  of  the  most  remarkable  nuraghi  in  Sardinia,  those  of  Sant' 
Antino  and  Oes,  the  former  consisting  of  several  chambers  one  above 
the  other,  the  latter  surrounded  by  three  small  cones  of  stone. 
From  Torralba  an  omnibus  plies  daily  to  Marrubiu  (p.  372). 

128  M.  Mores.  —  132  M.  Chilivani,  whence  a  branch-line  runs 
to  (6  M.)  Ozieri  (to  be  continued  to  Tirso,  a  station  on  the  above- 
mentioned  branch-line  from  Macomer  to  Nuoro). 

Fkom  Chilivani  to  Golfo  degli  Aranci,  0772  M.,  railway  in  3  hrs. 
(fares  10  fr.  50,  7  fr.  35,  4  fr.  20  c.) ;  one  through-train  daily.  The  inter- 
vening stations  are  Ozieri,  Oschiri,  Berchidda,  Monti,  and  Ennas.  (From 
Monti  a  narrow-gauge  railwav  runs  to  Tempio  via  Calangianus,  Luras,  and 
Nuchis;  25  M.  in  about  2  hrs.,  fares  4  fr.  10,  2  fr.  75,  and  1  fr.  60  c.)  — 
44  M.  Terranova  (Albergo;  Brit,  vice-consul),  a  town  with  2500  inhab.,  on 
the  E.  coast,  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Olbia,  the  walls  of  which  may 
still  be  traced.  A  Roman  Bath  has  lately  been  brought  to  light  in  the  court 
of  a  house  here.  —  51Vs  M.  Marinella;  57  M.  Golfo  degli  Aranci  Stazione; 
57'/2  M.  Golfo  degli  Aranci  Marina,  the  terminus,  at  the  Capo  Figari,  a  port 
of  call  for  several  lines  of  steamers  (p.  365). 

The  train  now  follows  the  Bio  de  las  Perdas  Alvas,  which  flows 
to  the  W.  between  wooded  heights.  139  M.  Ardara.  Near  (144i/2 
M.)  Ploaghe  rises  a  volcanic  hill,  where  an  ancient  stream  of  lava 
is  distinctly  traced.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  ravine  stands  a  *Nurago, 
the  'Nuraghu  Nieddu'  (i.  e.  'the  black'),  consisting  of  several 
chambers  one  above  the  other,  and  easy  of  access. 


374     Route  40.  SASSARI.  Sardinia. 

150  M.  Campomela;  15272  M.  Scala  di  Oioeca;  157  M.  Tissi- 
Vsini ;  159  M.  Caniga;  161  M.  Sassari. 

Sassari. 

Hotels.  -Italia,  Piazza  Azuni,  R. ,  dej.,  &  D.  7  fr. ;  Hotel  S.  Mae- 
tino,  new;  Concordia,  Via  delle  Finanze,  good  Genoese  cuisine,  but  poor 
rooms.  —  Caffe  Mortara,  Piazza  Castello.  —  Drinking-water  bad. 

British   Vice-Consul,  Sig.  C.  Bellieni. 

Sassari,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  that  name,  with  36,400 
inhab.,  an  archiepiscopal  see  and  seat  of  a  university,  is  the  chief 
town  in  the  island  next  to  Cagliari,  but  is  built  in  a  much  better 
and  more  modern  style.  The  two  towns  have  for  centuries  aspired  to 
the  exclusive  rank  of  capital  of  Sardinia.  In  Aug.,  1855,  the  cholera 
carried  off  nearly  one-third  of  the  inhabitants  within  twenty  days. 
The  native  costumes  of  the  neighbouring  villages  are  picturesque. 

The  handsome  Piazza  is  embellished  with  a  Statue  of  Azuni  (d. 
1827),  the  eminent  teacher  of  commercial  law,  erected  in  1862.  — 
The  ancient  Walls  and  the  Doria  tower  owe  their  origin  to  the  Gen- 
oese. The  picturesque  Castle  (now  a  barrack)  was  erected  by  the 
Aragonese  in  1330.  —  The  *Cathedral,  with  a  modern  facade,  con- 
tains a  painting  of  the  school  of  Carracci,  and  (to  the  left  of  the  choir) 
the  tomb  of  the  Due  de  Maurienne,  a  brother  of  Victor  Emmanuel  I., 
who  died  at  Sassari  in  1802.  The  church  delta  Trinita  has  a  Descent 
from  the  Cross  of  the  15th  century.  The  University,  dating  from 
the  17th  cent.,  is  attended  by  about  80  students  only.  It  contains 
small  collections  of  Roman  antiquities  and  natural  history. 

The  Theatre,  the  Municipality,  and  the  Hospital  are  handsome 
buildings.  The  Museum  is  rich  in  terracottas,  lamps,  pottery,  and 
other  antiquities  of  Phoenician  and  Roman  origin.  The  town  is 
now  encircled  by  promenades,  including  the  Giardino  Pubblico, 
where  concerts  are  often  given. 

On  the  E.  side  of  Sassari  is  the  copious  Fontanel  del  Bosello,  the 
water  of  which  is  carried  up  to  the  town  in  small  barrels  by  donkeys. 
The  fountain,  dating  from  1605,  is  in  the  tasteless  style  of  the  period,  and 
is  crowned  with  a  statue  of  S.  Gavinus,  the  tutelary  saint  of  the  N.  part 
of  the  island,  who  is  said  to  have  been  a  Roman  centurion  and  to  have 
embraced  Christianity  at  the  time  of  the  persecution  by  Diocletian. 

A  favourite  excursion  from  Sassari  is  to  the  village  of  Osilo  (2  hrs. 
on  horseback),  situated  2130  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  and  commanding  fine 
views,  especially  from  the  pinnacles  of  a  ruined  castle  of  the  Malaspina 
family,  or  from  the  still  loftier  Cappella  di  Bonaria  (2500  ft.). 

Another  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  romantic  valley  of  Ciocca,  and 
the  abbey  of  the  Madonna  di  Saccargia  (date  1116),  constructed  of  co- 
loured marble. 

From  Sassari  a  Railway  (narrow  gauge),  2IV2  M.,  in  l'/2  hr.  (fares  3  fr. 
60,  2  fr.  40,  1  fr.  40  c),  runs  via,  (71/2  M.)  Olmedo  to  the  fortified  seaport 
town  of  Alghero,  with  10,000  inhab.,  founded  by  the  Genoese  family 
of  Doria  in  1102.  At  a  later  period  Catalonians,  whose  language  is  still 
spoken  by  the  inhabitants,  |settled  here.  In  1541  Charles  V.  landed  here 
on  his  way  to  Africa,  and  spent  several  days  in  the  Casa  Albis,  which  is 
still  shown.  The  town  is  an  episcopal  see  and  possesses  a  cathedral  of  1510. 
Many  of  the  houses  are  of  medieval  origin.  Coral  and  shell-fish  are  among 
the    staple  commodities  (the  pinna  marina  is  often  found    here).     The  en- 


Sardinia.  PORTO  TORRES.  40.  Route.     375 

virons  produce  wine,  oil,  and  southern  fruits  in  abundance.  The  neigh- 
bouring "Grottoes  of  Neptune  contain  remarkably  fine  stalactites. 

From  Sassari  to  Porto  Torres,  12i/2  M.,  railway  in  3/4  hr. 
(fares  2  fr.  30,  1  fr.  60,  95  c).  Stations:  2>/2 '  M.  San?  Orsola; 
3  M.  San  Giorgio;  4^2  M.  San  Giovanni. 

12V2  M.  Porto  Torres  {Cafe  Suisse,  and  several  other  cafes  and 
restaurants),  occupying  the  site  of  the  Roman  Turris  Libyssonis,  now 
the  seaport  of  Sassari,  and  consisting  of  a  single  long  street,  is  noto- 
rious for  its  malaria.  The  shipping-trade  is  of  some  importance,  the 
chief  hranch  of  it  being  the  export  of  oxen  to  Marseilles.  Above  the 
town  (}/i  M.  from  the  quay)  stands  the  church  of  *S.  Gavino,  a  ba- 
silica of  the  11th  cent.,  in  the  ancient  style,  with  antique  columns, 
raised  choir,  and  an  open  roof.  Several  ancient  relics  are  built  into 
the  walls.  The  crypt  contains  the  saint's  tomb  and  ancient  sarcophagi. 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  harbour  (reached  by  the  road  to  the 
right)  are  situated  extensive  Roman  ruins.  The  brook  which  falls 
into  the  harbour  is  crossed  by  an  ancient  Roman  Bridge  of  seven 
arches  of  unequal  span ,  substantially  constructed  of  massive  blocks 
of  stone.  Between  the  bridge  and  the  harbour  are  the  ruins  of  a 
large  Temple  of  Fortune,  near  which  once  stood  a  basilica,  restored 
by  the  Emp.  Philip  the  Arabian  in  A.D.  247.  The  relics  of  the 
latter  now  bear  the  name  of  II  Palazzo  del  Re  Barbaro.  An  aqueduct 
and  numerous  rock-tombs  also  still  exist.    Steamboats,   see  p.  365. 

From  Cagliari  to  Nuoro,  with  Excursions  to  the  Mountains 
of  La  Barbagia. 

Excursions  to  the  mountainous  districts  of  the  interior  are  most  con- 
veniently made  by  the  Narrow-Gauge  Railway  from  Cagliari  via  Isili  to 
Sorgono  (1021/s  M.),  and  thence  by  the  Carriage  Road  leading  to  Nuoro, 
which  is  traversed  by  diligences.  Digressions  must  of  course  be  made  on 
foot  or  horseback.     From  Cagliari  to  Nuoro  in  all  about  124  M. 

The  railway  runs  towards  the  N.,  passing  (3^2  M.)  Monserrato- 
Pirri,  (7  M.)  Settimo,  (13  M.)  Soleminis,  (15  M.)  Sicci,  and  (22  M.) 
Donori.  Beyond  (27Y2  M.)  Barrali,  where  the  valley  of  the  Mannu 
is  reached,  we  ascend  along  that  river  to  (32  M.)  Senorbi,  at  the 
S.  extremity  of  the  hilly  and  fertile  district  of  Trejenta.  34  M. 
Suelli;  38l/2M.  Gesico;  43  M.  Mandas  (1610  ft.);  46  M.  Serri; 
51  M.  Isili  (1460  ft.),  the  capital  of  this  province.  The  neigh- 
bouring district  contains  numerous  nuraghi.  The  railway  next  tra- 
verses the  lofty  plain  of  La  Giara ,  entirely  of  basaltic  formation, 
with  a  great  number  of  nuraghi  on  the  heights.  It  then  leads  through 
a  pleasant  valley,  passes  the  chapel  of  S.  Sebastiano  and  the  vil- 
lage of  (56i/2  M.)  Nurallao  (1335  ft),  and  reaches  the  small  town 
of  (66  M.)  Laconi  (2000  inhab. ;  1750  ft.  above  the  sea),  situated 
at  the  W.  base  of  the  shelving  plain  of  Sarcidano,  whence  a  torrent 
descends  near  a  ruined  castle  and  forms  a  waterfall  in  the  gardens 
of  the  Marchese  di  Laconi.  An  omnibus  runs  daily  from  Laconi  to 
Samassi  (p.  371). 


376     Route  40.  NUORO.  Sardinia. 

The  railway  next  proceeds  to  the  N.  to  (69>/2  M.)  Fontanamela, 
(72  M.)  Ortuabis,  and  (79  M.)  Meana,  and  then  ascends  to  the  E. 
to  (90  M.)  Belvi-Aritzo  (2680  ft.),  the  latter  a  mountain-village 
at  the  foot  of  the  Fontana  Congiada  (4945  ft.),  whence  Oagliari 
derives  its  supply  of  ice  in  summer. 

Aritzo  is  an  excellent  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  mountainous 
district  of  the  Barbagia,  the  wildest  part  of  Sardinia,  the  inhabitants 
of  which  boast  that  they  never  succumbed  either  to  the  Carthaginians  or 
to  the  Romans.  The  expedition  requires  3-4  days.  A  guide  and  a  supply 
of  food  and  blankets  should  be  obtained  at  Aritzo,  as  it  may  be  necessary 
to  spend  a  night  in  a  shepherd's  hut. 

1st  Day.  On  horseback  (3-4  hrs.)  to  the  "Punta  Bruncu  Spina  [6290  ft.), 
the  summit  of  the  Gennargentu ,  and  the  highest  point  in  Sardinia ,  com- 
manding a  superb  view  of  the  island  and  the  Mediterranean.  A  spring 
near  the  top  is  a  suitable  spot  for  a  halt.  The  descent  is  made  on  the 
N.  side  to  Fonni  (3275  ft.),  on  the  Monte  Spada  (5335  ft.),  a  town  with 
3200  inhab.,  where  the  night  is  spent. 

2nd  Day.  From  Fonni  by  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  Gobbo  to  the  pass 
of  Col  di  Correboi  (4175  ft.);  then  a  descent  into  the  valley  of  the  Rio  di 
Perda  Cuadda,  one  of  the  highest  affluents  of  the  Flumendosa.  A  good 
resting-place  is  near  the  picturesquely-shaped  rocks  of  Perdaliana  (4310  ft.). 

3rd  Day.  Through  the  woods  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Flumendosa  to 
the  chapel  of  <S.  Sebastiano  (3110  ft.),  near  Seui,  where  there  are  coal- 
mines; thence  between  Monte  Orru  and  Monte  Perdedu  to  Seulo  (2625  ft.). 

4th  Day.  From  Seulo  we  return  to  Laconi,  either  towards  the  W., 
crossing  the  Flumendosa  by  a  ford  (passable  in  dry  weather  only),  and 
traversing  the  lofty  district  of  Sarcidano  and  the  oak-forest  of  Laconi 
(the  more  direct  route);  or  from  Seulo  we  proceed  towards  the  S.,  pass 
the  nurago  of  S.  Cosimo  and  a  small  mud-volcano  (similar  to  the  Macca- 
lubi  in  Sicily) ,  descend  to  the  Flumendosa ,  cross  the  river  by  a  ford, 
l'/z  M.  to  the  N.  of  Villanova  Tulo,  and  ascend  to  that  village,  whence 
we  cross  the  plain  of  Sarcidano  to  Laconi  (6  hrs. ;  a  longer  route  than  the 
above,  but  pleasanter  and  more  picturesque). 

From  Aritzo  the  railway  leads  along  the  W.  slope  of  the  Gen- 
nargentu (see  above),  passing  (92!/2  M.)  Desulo-Tonara,  the  latter 
a  picturesquely-situated  mountain-village,  whence  the  summit  may 
be  reached  without  difficulty  in  3-4  hrs.  —  102^  M.  Sorgono  (Inn, 
tolerable),  the  terminus  of  the  railway.  From  this  point  the  more 
direct  route  to  Nuoro  (about  22  M.)  does  not  lead  to  Gavoi,  hut 
passes  Fonni  and  proceeds  to  Mamojada,  whence  there  is  also  a 
carriage-road  (a  drive  of  3  hrs.)  to  — 

Nuoro  (Albergo  del  Cannon  d'Oro,  very  fair),  a  district-capital 
and  episcopal  see  (6300  inhab.),  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  hill 
(1905  ft.),  with  a  view  of  the  Gennargentu  and  the  nearer  moun- 
tains. Nuoro  is  connected  by  a  narrow-gauge  railway  with  Macomer 
(comp.  p.  373).  Diligence  from  Nuoro  to  Orosei  daily  in  5  hrs.  Orosei, 
the  ancient  Cedrinus,  is  a  small  seaport  on  the  E.  coast.  Steamers, 
see  p.  365. 

41.  Excursion  to  Malta. 

The  Stkamkks  of  the  Florio  - Rubattino  Co.  afford  a  convenient  oppor- 
tunity of  visiting  the  island  of  Malta  from  Syracuse.  They  start  once  a 
week  (Sun.  9  p.m.),  reach  Malta  next  morning,  and  quit  it  again  in  the 
afternoon.  Fare  to  or  from  the  steamer  1  shilling.  Passports,  though  not 
absolutely  necessary,  are  useful.  Those  who  intend  returning  to  Sicily 
the  same  evening  sliould  devote  the  forenoon  to  the  town  (harbour,  cathe- 


History.  MALTA.  41.  Route.     377 

dral,  and  palace  of  the  governor),  then  drive  to  Citta  Vecchia  (p.  379),  now 
connected  by  railway  with  La  Valetta  (calesse,  a  kind  of  gig,  there  and 
back  4-5  fr.).  —  Steamboats  also  ply  between  Malta  and  Tunis,  Tripoli, 
Algiers,  etc. 

English  money  is  the  currency  of  the  island ,  but  French  and  Italian 
gold  is  also  in  common  circulation. 

The  group  of  the  islands  of  Malta,  Oozzo,  and  Comino  lies 
56  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  coast  of  Sicily,  174  M.  from  the  S.  ex- 
tremity of  Italy,  and  187  M.  from  the  African  coast.  N.  latitude 
of  La  Valetta,  the  capital,  35°  54';  E.  longitude  14°  31'.  Malta  is 
20  M.  in  length ,  and  9*/2  M.  in  breadth;  Gozzo  10y2  M.  long  and 
5'/4  M.  broad;  Coraino  iy2  M.  long  and  li/4  M.  broad.  The  high- 
est point  of  Malta  is  590  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  total  popu- 
lation of  the  islands  is  160,000  souls,  of  whom  about  10,000  are 
English  and  foreigners.  The  climate  is  hot  (mean  temperature  in 
January  61°,  in  August  95°  Fahr.).  The  island  of  Malta  rises  pre- 
cipitously from  the  sea  in  the  form  of  a  sterile  rock,  and  appears  at 
first  sight  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation ,  the  fields  and  gardens 
being  enclosed  by  lofty  walls  and  terraces  of  stone.  Through 
the  indefatigable  industry  of  the  inhabitants  in  pulverising  the 
upper  stratum  of  rock  and  in  irrigating  the  soil ,  nearly  two- 
thirds  of  the  barren  surface  have  been  converted  into  luxuriantly 
fertile  arable  land.  The  produce  yielded  is  rarely  less  than  fifteen 
to  twenty-fold,  whilst  in  some  favoured  spots  it  amounts  to  fifty 
or  sixty-fold.  After  the  hay  or  corn-harvest  in  May  and  June 
the  land  is  generally  sown  for  the  second  time  with  cotton, 
which  is  also  manufactured  here.  Fruit  is  very  abundant, 
especially  oranges ,  lemons ,  and  figs.  The  natives  are  a  mixed 
race,  being  descendants  of  the  various  nations  who  have  at  dif- 
ferent periods  been  masters  of  the  island.  Their  language  is  a 
corrupt  dialect  of  Arabic  mingled  with  Italian  (lingua  Maltese). 
Most  of  the  higher  classes  understand  Italian ,  which  is  also  the 
official  language  in  the  law-courts.  English,  however,  is  used  in 
the  other  departments  of  government  and  spoken  by  the  higher 
officials.  The  Maltese  are  well  known  throughout  the  Mediter- 
ranean as  an  enterprising  seafaring  and  commercial  people.  Their 
island  is  indebted  to  its  central  position  for  its  great  strategic 
importance.  Being  a  convenient  station  on  the  route  to  the  East, 
and  boasting  of  an  admirable  harbour,  the  island  is,  like  Gibraltar, 
one  of  the  principal  bulwarks  of  the  naval  supremacy  of  England. 
The  English  garrison  usually  numbers  about  7000  men. 

Malta  is  supposed  to  be  identical  with  the  island  of  Ogygia  mentioned 
by  Homer,  where  the  nymph  Calypso,  the  daughter  of  Atlas,  whose  cavern 
is  still  pointed  out  on  the  adjacent  island  of  Gozzo,  is  represented  as  hav- 
ing enslaved  Odysseus.  The  Phoenicians  of  Sidon  most  probably  founded  a 
colony  here  at  a  very  early  period,  after  which  Greek  settlers  repaired  to 
the  island  (about  the  year  B.  C.  736).  The  island,  then  called  Melite ,  with 
a  capital  of  the  same  name,  was  conquered  by  the  Carthaginians  about 
B.  C.  400,  and  afterwards  (in  B.  C.  212)  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Romans. 
The  latter  erected  temples  to  Apollo  and  Proserpine,  and  a  theatre,  a  few 
traces  of  which  still  exist.    In  the  autumn  of  A.D.  61  St.  Paul  was  wrecked 


378     Route  41.  LA  VALETTA.  Malta. 

on  the  N.  coast  of  the  island,  and  converted  several  of  the  inhabitants 
to  Christianity.  In  454  Malta  was  conquered  by  the  Vandals,  in  464  by  the 
Goths,  in  533  by  Belisarius  for  the  E.  Empire,  in  870  by  the  Arabs ,  and 
again  in  1090  by  the  Normans  under  Roger,  by  whom  it  was  united  with 
the  kingdom  of  Sicily.  It  then  shared  the  fortunes  of  Sicily  down  to  1530, 
when  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  presented  the  island  to  the  knights  of 
St.  John  after  their  expulsion  from  Rhodes  by  the  Turks.  The  order  now 
assumed  the  title  of  knights  of  Malta,  and  gallantly  defended  the  island, 
which  had  become  one  of  the  great  bulwarks  of  Christianity,  against  the 
repeated  attacks  of  the  Turks.  The  most  fearful  siege  they  sustained  was 
hat  of  1565,  when  they  were  attacked  by  the  principal  armament  of  Sultan 
Soliman  II.  under  Mustapha  and  Piale.  In  consequence  of  this  event  the 
Grand  Master  Jean  de  la  Valette  founded  the  town  of  La  Valette  (now  the 
capital),  which  is  regarded  as  impregnable.  On  17th  June,  1798,  Buona- 
parte, when  on  his  way  to  Egypt,  gained  possession  of  the  town  through 
treachery  and  stratagem,  but  on  8th  Sept.,  1800,  after  a  siege  of  two 
years ,  it  was  captured  by  the  English ,  who  have  since  been  masters  of 
the  island. 

La  Valetta.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Imperial  ,  Via  S.  Lucia  91,  pens,  for 
more  than  2  days,  9s.;  Durnsford's  Hotel,  Strada  Reale  247,  pens.  9s., 
cheaper  after  April ;  Anoleterre  ,  pens.  10  fr. ;  all  of  the  first  class  and 
in  the  English  style;  Hotel  de  Paris,  Via  Stretta  44,  R. ,  L.,  &  A.  2-5, 
dej.  2x/2,  D.  3  fr.  (both  incl.  wine);  Hotel  d'Australie,  unpretending. 

Valetta,  the  capital  of  the  island,  erected  in  1566-71,  with 
about  70,000  inhab. ,  rises  in  an  amphitheatrical  form  on  a  pro- 
montory, which  is  surrounded  by  deeply  indented  bays.  The  Har- 
bour on  the  S.E.  side,  one  of  the  best  on  the  Mediterranean,  being 
well  sheltered  and  upwards  of  60  ft.  deep,  is  defended  by  Fort 
St.  Elmo  and  other  batteries  and  considered  almost  impregnable. 
Various  Oriental  elements  are  observable  in  the  busy  scene  here. 
The  streets  ascend  precipitously  from  the  quay,  often  by  means  of 
long  flights  of  steps ,  and  are  far  superior  in  cleanliness  to  those 
of  other  towns  on  the  Mediterranean.  The  Strada  Reale,  extending 
from  St.  Elmo  to  the  Porta  Reale,  a  distance  of  more  than  ^2  M., 
is  the  principal  street. 

The  richly  decorated  cathedral  of  S.  Giovanni,  dating  from 
1576,  contains  numerous  monuments  of  Grand  Masters  and  knights 
of  the  Maltese  Order,  grouped  according  to  their  nationality. 

1st  Chapel  on  the  right  (del  Crocifisso)  :  Beheading  of  St.  John,  altar- 
piece  by  Mich.  Angela  Caravaggio.  —  2nd  Chapel,  Portuguese :  monuments 
of  Manoel  Pinto  and  the  Grand  Master  Manoel  de  Vilhena,  the  latter  en- 
tirely of  bronze.  —  3rd  Chapel,  Spanish:  monuments  of  four  Grand 
Masters,  the  largest  being  those  of  Roccafeuil  and  N.  Coloner.  —  4th 
Chapel,  Provencals.  —  5th  Chapel ,  della  Vergine,  richly  decorated  with 
silver:  town-keys,  taken  from  the  Turks,  are  preserved  here  as  trophies. 
—  To  the  left  of  the  principal  entrance  is  the  bronze  monument  of  the 
Grand  Master  Marc  Antonio  Zondadario.  —  1st  Chapel  on  the  left  (or 
Sacristy)  contains  a  few  portraits.  —  2nd  Chapel,  Austrians.  —  3rd 
Chapel,  Italians:  pictures  (St.  Jerome  and  Mary  Magdalene)  attributed  to 
Caravaggio.  —  4th  Chapel,  Frenchmen :  monuments  of  two  Grand  Masters 
and  of  Prince  Louis  Philippe  of  Orleans  (d.  1808).  —  5th  Chapel,  Bava- 
rians. —  A  staircase  descends  hence  to  a  vault  containing  the  sarcophagi 
of  L'Isle  Adam,  the  first  Grand  Master,  La   Valette,  and   several  others. 

The  Palace  op  the  Governor,  formerly  the  residence  of  the 
Grand  Master ,  is  sumptuously  fitted  up  ,  and  still  contains  a  num- 
ber of  interesting  objects,  though  the  French  plundered  it  of  many 


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CITTA  VECCHIA.  41 .  Route,     379 

of  its  treasures.  The  council-chamber  contains  some  fine  tapestry, 
and  the  armoury  a  collection  of  weapons  of  the  period  of  the  knights. 
One  of  the  corridors  is  hung  with  portraits  of  the  Grand  Masters.  — 
The  Houses  of  the  different  nationalities  (such  as  the  Auberge  de 
Provence,  d'Auve*gne,  de  Castille,  de  France,  and  d'ltalie)  have  all 
undergone  considerable  change.  —  Adjacent  to  the  palace  is  the 
handsome  building  of  the  Library,  with  about  40,000  vols,  and  a 
few  Phoenician  and  Roman  antiquities  found  in  the  island. 

Pleasant  Walks  along  the  ramparts ,  which  are  adorned  with 
numerous  statues  of  Grand  Masters  and  of  English  Governors.  The 
best  point  of  view  is  at  the  Baracca  Nuova.  The  Botanic  Garden 
is  also  a  favourite  resort. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  harbour  lies  the  older  part  of  the  town, 
called  the  Citth  Vittoriosa,  inhabited  by  the  lower  classes.  Farther 
distant  is  the  Burmula ,  or  Citth  Cospicua,  with  its  new  docks; 
and  lastly  the  Senglea  or  Isola.  The  entrance  to  the  harbour  here 
is  commanded  by  the  fort  of  Ricasoli. 

An  aqueduct,  begun  in  1610,  with  numerous  arches  intersect- 
ing the  environs,  supplies  the  town  with  water.  The  Palace  of 
S.  Antonio,  the  residence  of  the  Governor,  with  a  large  and  well- 
kept  garden  (visitors  admitted),  is  about  4^2  M.  distant.  The  forti- 
fied Citta,  Vecchia,  or  La  Notabile,  2M.  farther  (railway,  seep.  377), 
the  ancient  capital  of  the  island,  contains  a  few  relics  of  the  Roman 
period.  The  richly  decorated  Cathedral  is  said  to  occupy  the  site 
of  the  house  of  Publius,  who  when  governor  of  the  island  accord- 
ed a  hospitable  reception  to  St.  Paul  (Acts,  xxviii).  The  terrace 
commands  an  extensive  prospect.  The  church  of  S.  Paolo  is  erected 
over  a  grotto  which  is  said  to  have  been  occupied  by  the  Apostle 
during  the  three  months  of  his  stay  on  the  island.  The  sacristan 
also  shows  some  catacombs  in  the  vicinity ,  which  are  partly  of 
ante-Christian  origin,  but  otherwise  uninteresting.  —  II  Boschetto, 
an  extensive  public  garden  which  may  be  visited  if  time  permits, 
lies  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Citta  Vecchia. 

The  island  of  Comino  is  almost  uninhabited.  Gozzo,  which 
is  well  cultivated,  was  the  ancient  Oaulos,  the  site  of  a  Phoenician, 
and  afterwards  of  a  Roman  town.  La  Torre  de'  Qiganti,  con- 
structed of  blocks  of  rock  without  mortar,  possibly  belonged  to  a 
Phoenician  temple. 

42.  Excursion  to  Tunis. 

Carthage. 

Comp.  the  Map,  p.  379.  The  latter  is  founded  on  the  latest  French  ord- 
nance map,  which  for  the  sake  of  uniformity  has  also  been  followed  in  the 
spelling  of  the  Arabic  names  in  the  text. 

Steamboats  to  Goletta  (Tunis).  1.  Fkom  Cagliaki  (and  from  Genoa, 
Leghorn,  or  Naples).  A  steamboat  of  the  Soeieta  Florio-Rubattino  leaves 
Genoa  every  Thursday  at  9  p.m.,  and  Leghorn  on  Fridays  at  midnight ; 
another  leaves  Naples  on  Saturdays  at  11  a.m.  (passengers  for  Goletta  by 
the  last  must  change  boats  at  Cagliari) ;  from  Cagliari  on  Sunday  at  7  p.m. 


380     Route  42.  PANTELLERIA.  Excursion 

crossing  direct,  reaching  Goletta  on  Monday  at  12  noon  and  returning  on 
Wednesday  at  1  p.m.  Fares  from  Cagliari  to  Goletta,  48  fr. ,  32  fr.  — 
2.  Fkom  Palekmo  a  steamer  of  the  Florio-Rubattino  Co.  plies  once  weekly 
to  Goletta  via  Trapani,  Favignana,  Marsala,  and  the  island  of  Pantellaria, 
starting  on  Tues.  at  midnight,  leaving  Marsala  at  9  p.m.on  Wed.,  and 
arriving  at  Pantellaria  at  5  a.m.  and  Goletta  at  3  p.m.  on  Thursday.  The 
long  sea- voyage  from  Palermo  may  be  avoided  by'taking  the  train  to 
Marsala,  in  which  case  a  visit  to  Segesta  and  Selinunto  may  be  combined 
with  this  excursion.  Fares  from  Palermo  to  Goletta,  63  fr.,  45  fr. ;  from 
Marsala  45  fr.,  30  fr.  Return- tickets,  see  pp.  xvn,  276.  —  3.  Feom  Malta 
a  steamer  of  the  same  company  sails  every  week  via  Tripoli.  —  4.  A 
steamer  of  the  Compagnie  Ginirale  Transatlantigue  leaves  (a)  Marseilles 
for  Tunis  direct  every  Mon. ,  Wed.,  and  Frid.  at  5  p.m.  (fares  125,  95, 
55  fr.);  (b)  from  Malta  every  Thurs.  at  noon,  returning  on  Mon.  at  10  a.m. 
—  A  passport  is  not  required.  Travellers  should  enquire  on  the  spot 
with  regard  to  these  routes,  in  case  of  alterations,  and  also  with  regard 
to  quarantine  regulations.  The  small  Italian  steamers  are  sometimes  de- 
layed an  entire  day  by  bad  weather.    The  French  steamers  are  preferable. 

French  Gold  is  the  best  kind  of  money  for  this  excursion  (comp.  p.  383). 

The  steamboats  from  Cagliari  and  from  Malta  do  not  touch  any- 
where on  their  way  to  Tunis.  The  steamer  from  Palermo  calls  at 
Trapani,  Favignana,  and  Marsala,  and  7  hrs.  after  leaving  the  last 
reaches  Pantelleria,  an  island  of  volcanic  origin,  30  M.  in  circum- 
ference, and  58  sq.  M.  in  area,  situated  more  than  halfway  to  the 
African  coast.  The  extinct  crater  in  the  interior  of  the  island  rises 
nearly  2000  ft.  above  the  sea.  Numerous  hot  mineral  springs  still 
afford  evidence  of  slumbering  volcanic  agency.  The  inhabitants, 
7000  in  number,  speak  a  peculiar  dialect  compounded  of  Arabic 
and  Italian,  and  carry  on  a  considerable  trade  in  the  excellent  figs, 
raisins,  capers,  and  other  products  of  their  island.  Pantelleria  was 
the  Cossyra  of  antiquity.  It  was  occupied  by  the  Phoenicians  at 
an  early  period.  The  chief  village  (2500  inhab.),  lies  on  the  N.W 
side  of  the  island.    The  citadel  contains  an  Italian  penal  colony. 

Farther  on  we  come  in  sight  of  Cape  Farina  (W.)  and  Cape  Bon 
(E.J,  with  its  lighthouse,  two  conspicuous  points  on  the  coast  of  Africa, 
which  is  green  in  winter  only,  and  we  soon  enter  the  Bay  of  Tunis. 
To  the  E.  of  the  entrance  lie  the  small  islands  oiDjamur  (the^Egi- 
mures  of  the  ancients) ,  the  larger  of  which  is  called  Zimbra  and 
the  smaller  Zimbretta. 

The  bay  contracts ;  to  the  left  rise  precipitous  and  barren 
cliffs,  forming  an  imposing  frame  to  the  bay ;  and  in  a  few  hours 
the  landing-place  at  Goletta  becomes  visible.  On  the  right  rises 
the  promontory  of  Carthage,  which  marks  the  spot  where  stood  the 
ancient  city  of  that  name  (comp.  p.  386);  it  is  crowned  by  a  con- 
spicuous lighthouse  and  slopes  precipitously  on  the  E.  and  N. 
sides,  while  on  it  now  lies  the  Arab  village  of  Bou-Sa'id.  On  the 
left  rise  the  high  mountains  of  Boukoumin  and  Djebel  Resas.  Farther 
to  the  S.  the  fine  outline  of  the  Zaghouan  range  is  descried. 

Goletta.  —  Arrival.  The  steamboat  casts  anchor  in  the  roadstead 
at  a  considerable  distance  from  Goletta.  The  traveller  is  conveyed  in  a 
small  steamer  to  the  Douane  (custom-house),  where  his  luggage  is  slightly 
examined. 

The  most  promising  of  the  throng  of  negroes  and  Arabs    who  proffer 


to  Tunis.  GOLETTA.  42.  Route.     381 

their  services  may  be  engaged  to  carry  luggage  to  the  Railwav  for  Tunis 
(see  below),  and  to  act  as  guide  (fee  50-70  c).  The  necessary  directions 
may  be  given  (as  shortly  and  simply  as  possible)  in  Italian,  which  most 
of  them  understand  a  little.  Offers  of  assistance  from  other  persons  should 
be  declined. 

Hotel.    Hotel  db  France,  tolerable. 

Ooletta,  Fr.  La  Ooulette,  with  about  3600inhab.,  chiefly  Arabs, 
Jews,  and  negroes,  in  picturesqe  costumes,  is  the  port  of  Tunis, 
from  which  it  is  about  10  M.  distant;  its  fortifications  are  unim- 
portant. Its  coolness  in  summer  (thermometer  seldom  above  90° 
Fahr.  in  the  shade)  and  its  excellent  sea-baths  render  it  a  favourite 
'resort  at  that  season.  The  Palace  of  the  Bey,  is  situated  to  the  right 
of  the  canal  which  connects  the  bay  with  the  inner  creek,  ElBahira. 
On  the  left  of  this  canal  are  the  Douane,  the  Harem  of  the  Bey, 
the  Court  of  Justice,  and  the  Arsenal. 

The  Railway  of  the  Florio  -  Rubattino  Co.  has  two  lines  (comp. 
the  Map),  on  which  most  of  the  trains  make  a  circular  trip:  from 
Tunis  via  La  Marsa  (p.  386)  and  La  Malka  (p.  385)  to  Goletta, 
and  then  back  direct;  or  vice  versa.  Only  a  few  trains  run  exclu- 
sively on  the  direct  line  from  Goletta  to  Tunis. 

1.  Direct  Line,  10  M.,  in  i/2  hr.  (fares  2  fr.  5,  1  fr.  45,  75  c). 
The  train  skirts  the  N.  margin  of  the  bay  of  El  Bahira,  and  we 
observe  the  island  oiSchikly,  with  a  mediaeval  castle  built  by  Char- 
les V.,  which  contains  a  large  leaden  reservoir.  The  lake  is  enliv- 
ened by  countless  wild  fowl,  including  flamingoes,  which  afford 
excellent  sport  (free  to  all).  The  station  at  Tunis  is  on  the  Marinn, 
to  the  E.  of  the  town. 

2.  Via  La  Marsa,  15M.,  in  about  lhr.  The  train  soon  diverges 
from  the  direct  line,  and  runs  to  the  N. ,  passing  the  stations  of 
New  Goletta  (La  Nouvelle  Goulette),  Kheredine,  Khram,  Carthage, 
and  La  Malka-Saint-Louis.  —  A1/*  M.  La  Marsa,  a  favourite  sum- 
mer-resort of  the  Tunisian  grandees  (p.  386).  From  La  Marsa  to 
Tunis  the  train  takes  Y2  nr- >  passing  El  Aouina,  near  the  spot 
where  Regulus  is  said  to  have  been  defeated  and  taken  prisoner. 

Tunis.     Porters,  as  at  Goletta,  50-70  c. 

Hotels.  'Grand  Hotel,  R.  from  3J/2,  pens.  13  fr. ;  "Hotel  de  Paris, 
ll1/:!  fr.  per  day,  cheaper  for  a  prolonged  stay,  under  the  same  man- 
agement ;  Hotel  Gigino,  noisily  situated  in  the  Place  de  la  Bourse,  pens. 
0  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  de  l'Union,  corner  of  the  Place  de  la  Bourse ; 
Hotel  du  Louvre,  Rue  de  la  Commission,  cheaper,  but  not  scrupulously 
clean,  R.  2,  A.  1/2,  dej.  2,  D.  2V2,  pens.  (A.  extra)  7  fr.  (bargain  desirable). 
—  Pension  at  these  does  not  include  B.,  which  is  best  obtained  in  a  cafe. 

Restaurants.  Papayanni,  Rue  d'ltalie;  Restaurant  Fran^ais,  Rue  de  la 
Commission,  2nd  floor;  at  both  D.  incl.  wine  2  fr.,  to  subscribers  IV2  fr.  — 
Beer  at  the  Brasserie  Rissler,  behind  the  Grand  Hotel.  —  It  is  the  universal 
custom  to  lunch  between  12  and  2  o'clock  and  to  dine  between  6  and  8  p.m. 

Cafes.  De  rUnivers,  Place  de  la  Bourse;  De  France,  Alcassar,  both  in 
the  Avenue  de  France. 

Furnished  Apartments  (let  even  for  a  few  days;  prepayment  usual) 
are  numerous;  e.g.  Maison  MeuUte,  Rue  de  la  Commission  9. 

Baths  in  the  Rue  d'Allemagne,  well  fitted  up;  bath  V/,,  Moorish  bath, 
with  massage  etc.,  2>/2  fr. 

Steamboat  Office  of  the  Florio  -  Rubattino  Co.  next  the  Italian  station. 


382     Route  42.  TUNIS.  Excursion 

Post  Office.  Franco  -  Tunisian  Post  Office,  Avenue  de  France,  ne 
the  Place  de  la  Bourse.  Italian  Post  Office  (poste  restante  for  all  lette 
from  Italy),  Rue  des  Glacieres. 

Carriages.  Voitures  de  place :  per  day  15  fr. ;  per  hr. ,  in  the  tov\ 
1  fr.  80,  outside  the  town  2  fr.  40  c. ;  per  drive ,  within  the  town ,  1  i 
Voitures  de  Remise:  per  day  20  fr. ;  per  hr.,  in  the  town  2  fr.  40  c,  ou 
side  the  town  3  fr.  —  Cheaper  carriages  may  be  hired  at  the  Piazza  Gw, 
taghene,  near  Bab  Cartagine. 

Tramways,  starting  near  the  Place  de  la  Bourse:  1.  Along  the  Mi 
rina.  —  2.  Through  the  Rue  Djazira.  —  3.  Through  the  Rue  des  Malta 
and  its  continuations.  Fare  in  all  cases  10  c.  —  Omnibus  to  various  poin 
in  the  suburbs. 

Guides.  None  should  be  engaged  but  those  recommended  by  the  hote 
keepers  or  consuls  or  other  respectable  persons  (5-6  fr.  per  day).  TheJev 
ish  guides  offering  themselves  in  the  streets  should  be  avoided. 

British  Consul,  R.  Drummond  Hay,  Esq.  —  Permission  to  visit  tl 
Bardo  (p.  384)  must  be  obtained  through  the  traveller's  consul. 

Bankers.  Bank  of  Tunis;  Compagnie  Algirienne.  —  Goods  Agen 
M.  Sel/t,  trustworthy.  —  Physician :  Dr.  E.  S.  Camilleri.  —  Oculis 
Br.  A.  Kunitz.  —  Photographs  at  CatalanotWs  and  Garigne^s.  —  Plai 
of  Tunis  and  Old  Carthage,  guide-books,  etc.,  at  Bemoflys',  Avenue  de 
Marine,  and  V.  Brim's,  Eue  Djazira.  —  Newspapers.  De'pe'che  Tunisienn 
Observateur,  French;  Vnione,  Italian. 

Theatre,  with  occasional  French  and  Italian  performances,  usually  i 
summer   only.  —   Variety   Theatres   and   Music  Halls    (for    gentlenw 
only):  French  in  the  Cafi  Alcassar  (p.  381);   Arabic  in  the  Cafi  Newyor, 
Avenue  de  la  Marine,  and  the  Cafi  Orient,  beside   the  Italian  station, 
brief  visit  to  the  last  is  not  uninteresting. 

English  Church  (St.  Augustine) ;  service  at  10  a.m. 

Plan  for  a  short  visit.  Immediately  on  arriving,  the  traveller  shou 
take  a  walk  about  the  town;  visit  one  of  the  numerous  coffee-houses  i 
the  Halfa-ouine  square  (p.  384;  no  fee),  where  the  Muslim  may  be  see 
over  his  cigarette  and  coffee.  —  1st  Day:  Visit  the  Bazaar  (p.  383),  tt 
Bar  el-Bey  (p.  384),  the  old  Fort  de  la  Manoubia  (p.  384),  and  the  Jeuri, 
Quarter  (p.  383).  After  lunch  visit  the  Halfa-ouine  Square  (p.  384)  an 
the  view-point  marked  Belvedere  on  our  map  (p.  384),  to  see  the  sunse 
The  evening  may  be  spent  at  one  of  the  cafes  in  the  Halfa-ouine  squar 
—  2nd  Day  :  Excursion  to  Carthage,  see  p.  385.  —  3rd  Day :  Drive  via,  the  fo 
Sidi-ben-Hassin  and  the  town  (8  M.)  of  Mohamedia,  to  Ud"na  (p.  38T).  On  tl 
way  back  the  Sidi-ben-Hassen  fort  should  be  ascended  for  its  incomparabl 
view  about  sunset.  —  The  traveller  should  consult  his  consul  before  unde 
taking  any  of  the  longer  excursions,  to  Zaghouan,  Utica,  or  Porto  Farm 

Tunis,  the  capital  of  the  regency  of  that  name,  and  the  thii 
largest  town  in  Africa,  contains  upwards  of  150,000  inhah. ,  < 
whom  about  one-fourth  are  native  Jews,  and  one-fifth  Europear 
of  various  nationalities,  chiefly  Italians,  Maltese,  Greeks,  andFrencl 
The  remainder  are  Moors,  Arabs,  Turks,  Berbers,  and  negroes.  Th 
regency  has  been  a  protectorate  of  France  since  1881  and  since  th; 
date  the  French  language  and  customs  have  made  extraordinai 
progress,  although  the  Italian  element  is  the  largest  among  theEurc 
peans.  Order  is  in  general  well-maintained,  and  strangers  may  vis 
even  the  Oriental  quarters  of  the  town  in  security.  The  religion 
prejudices  of  the  Arabs  must  of  course  be  respected;  and  attempt 
to  enter  their  mosques  should  on  no  account  be  made. 

The  Kingdom,  or,  as  it  is  more  commonly  called,  the  Regency,  of  Tunii 
was  under  the  suzerainty  of  the  Sultan  of  Turkey  from  1575  to  1881,  whe 
it  came  under  French  protection.  It  occupies  an  area  of  70,000  square  M.,  at 
contains  about  two  million  inhabitants.  The  present  Bey,  Alt  who  was  boi 
in  1817,  is  a  descendant  of  the  Hussein  family,  which  has  occupied  the  throi 


to  Tunis.  TUNIS.  42.  Route.  §383 

since  1691;he  succeeded  his  brother,  Mohamiped  es-Sadok,  on  Oct.  27th,  1S82. 
The  French  General-Resident  acts  as  minister  for  foreign  affairs ,  and  the 
French  commander-in-chief  as  minister  of  war.  Finance,  the  post-office, 
education,  and  public  works  are  also  under  the  control  of  French  officials, 
assisted  by  a  Mohammedan  prime  minister  and  a  secretary  of  state.  Europeans 
and  their  dependents  are  subject  to  the  jurisdiction  of  French  courts,  natives 
to  that  of  the  Ferik  and  the  so-called  Shaara  (access  on  Thurs.  under  the 
escort  of  a  dragoman  from  the  consulate).  The  Bey  is  permitted  to  main- 
tain a  small  army  as  a  guard  of  honour,  but  the  real  effective  force  con- 
sists of  French  troops. 

Monet.  The  current  coins  of  the  country  are  piastres  and  lharubs : 
1  piastre=16  silver  kharubs=26  copper  kharubs ;  32  piastres=20  francs= 
16  shillings.  A  piastre  is  therefore  worth  about  sixpence,  and  IV2  piastre 
about  one  franc,  but  the  rate  of  exchange  varies.  French  money  is  the 
only  foreign  currency  exchanged  without  difficulty. 

The  Europeans  reside  almost  exclusively  in  the  European  Quar- 
ter, which  is  situated  at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  town,  and  has  broad, 
modern  streets.  The  central  point  is  the  Avenue  de  la  Marine,  a 
little  to  the  N.  of  which  is  the  Italian  railway  station,  and  a  little 
to  the  S.  the  French  station.  To  the  E.  this  avenue  extends  almost 
as  far  as  the  EL  Bahira  Lake  (p.  381) ;  in  the  opposite  direction  it 
is  continued  under  the  name  of  the  Avenue  de  France  to  the  Place 
de  la  Bourse  (see  below).  The  Avenue  de  France,  where  the  French 
minister -resident  lives,  is  the  favorite  promenade  (military  band 
at  4  p.m.  in  winter) . 

The  Maltese  and  the  Oriental  quarters  occupy  the  remainder  of 
the  town.  The  Arabic  and  Moorish  quarters  (to  the  S.W.  and  N.W.) 
are  the  cleanest ;  the  Jewish  and  Maltese  quarters  are  the  dirtiest. 
Various  phases  of  Oriental  life  may  be  witnessed  in  the  narrow  and 
sometimes  unpaved  streets,  which  are  almost  impassable  after  heavy 
rain.  The  town  contains  the  tombs  of  numerous  Mohammedan  saints. 

A  visit  to  the  Oriental  quarters  is  most  conveniently  begun  at 
the  above-mentioned  Place  de  la  Bourse,  which  is  always  thronged. 
From  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  square  leads  the  narrow  and  busy  Rue 
de  la  Kasbah  to  the  Kasbah  or  citadel  (p.  384).  Most  of  the  Jewish 
population  dwell  to  the  right  of  this  street ;  a  visit  to  their  quarter 
is  specially  recommended  on  their  Sabbath,  on  acount  of  the  gaily- 
coloured  costumes  of  the  young  women  and  children. 

To  the  left  of  the  Rue  de  la  Kasbah  is  the  *Bazaae  (PI.  1), 
consisting  of  narrow  lanes,  largely  vaulted  or  covered  with  boards. 
These  are  generally  known  by  the  name  of  Silks  (Fr.  Souks'),  which 
properly  means  the  various  divisions,  each  of  which  is  generally 
devoted  to  the  sale  of  articles  of  one  particular  class  :  in  the  Si'ik 
el-Khbebdfiye  ('throwsters')  are  sold  fringes  and  silk  wares  ;  in  the 
Suk  el-Attdrin  exquisite  essences;  in  the  Suk  el-Birka  (formerly 
the  slave-market)  jewellery  of  every  kind  and  ancient  coins ;  and 
at  the  two  lateral  approaches,  burnouses,  haiks,  scarfs,  etc.  Pur- 
chases should  be  made  without  the  presence  of  a  guide ;  and  the 
various  touts  should  be  repulsed  with  decision.  The  reserved  and 
grave  Arab  traders  are  generally  to  be  prefered.  For  the  dearer 
articles  about  one  fourth  of  the  price  first  demanded  will  be  taken. 


384     Route  42.  TUNIS.  Excursion 

Some  distance  up  the  Rue  de  la  Kasbah  we  come  to  a  small 
square  with  gardens.  Here  to  the  left  is  the  Palace  of  the  Bey  (Ddr 
el-Bey;  adm.  9-11  and  3-5;  apply  at  the  door;  fee  1  fr.).  It  con- 
tains an  interesting  small  round  saloon  and  a  few  other  rooms  with 
beautifully  executed  stucco-work  in  a  style  introduced  by  Moors 
from  Spain.  Fine  *View  from  the  flat  roof  over  the  white  houses  of 
the  town,  the  numerous  mosques  in  the  Moorish  style,  with  their 
minarets,  and  the  hills  of  the  neighbourhood. 

Near  the  Dar  el-Bey,  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  city,  rises 
the  Kasbah  (PL  2),  an  extensive  citadel,  dating  from  the  time  of 
Emp.  Charles  V.  In  the  vicinity  is  also  the  palace  of  the  Ferik,  or 
governor  of  the  city,  near  which  are  the  pleasant  promenades  of  the 
so-called  Fontana,  or  main  reservoir  of  the  waterworks. 

The  western  visitor  will  find  much  to  interest  him  in  the  Halfa- 
ouine  square,  or  in  the  course  of  a  walk  along  the  streets  encircling 
the  inner  town  (Rue  Djazira,  Rue  des  Maltais,  and  their  continua- 
tions) ;  while  the  habits  of  the  people  and  the  life  in  the  caravans 
may  be  studied  at  the  town -gates,  Bab-el-Oourgeni ,  Bab-el- 
Livoua,  Bab-Sidi-Abdallah,  and  the  adjoining  streets  and  squares. 

Excursions. 

1 .  Fort  de  la  Manoubia.  We  may  take  the  tramway  through  the 
Hue  Djazira  (p.  387)  to  its  terminus.  Thence  passing  the  Zouave 
barracks  and  through  the  gate  Bab-el-Oourgeni,  we  reach  the^/^h1-) 
hill  immediately  to  the  S.W.  of  Tunis,  on  which  once  stood  the 
fort.  The  top  affords  a  magnificent *View  of  the  town,  the  ElBahira 
bay,  with  Goletta  and  Carthage  on  its  farther  side,  and  the  sea  and 
the  mountains  enclosing  the  gulf  in  the  background.  To  the  N.  is 
the  aqueduct  mentioned  at  p.  390.  To  the  S.W.  at  our  feet  lie  the 
salt  lake  of  Sedjoumi  and  the  extensive  plain,  bounded  by  the 
mountains  of  Zaghouan,  rising  to  the  height  of  5250  ft. 

2.  Another  fine  point  of  view  (especially  at  sunset)  is  the 
chain  of  hills  (the  so-called  Belvedere)  to  the  E.  of  Tunis,  about 
2V4M.  from  the  gate  (omn.  from  the  Place  de  la  Bourse  to  the  Bab- 
el-Kadrah  10  c. ;  thence  40  min.  walk).  The  village  of  El  Ariana, 
about  2  M.  to  the  E.  (omnibus  from  the  Place  Carthagene  hourl) 
30  c.),  is  famous  for  its  roses. 

3.  About  2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Tunis  is  situated  the  *Bardo, 
an  extensive  pile  of  buildings  resembling  a  town  in  miniature, 
containing  a  palace,  which  the  Bey  seldom  visits,  and  a  state-prison. 
Admission  by  card  only,  9-11  and  3-5;  see  p.  387).  The  railway 
to  theBardo  is  not  used;  visitors  should  hire  a  carriage  by  the  hour. 

The  Vestibule  is  adorned  with  elaborate  Moorish  stucco-work.  Between 
3  and  4  p.  m.  visitors  may  be  present  here  at  the  Saldm  Alek,  or  'salute' 
which  is  performed  in  honour  of  the  Sultan  of  Turkey  by  the  master  oi 
the  ceremonies  in  the  name  of  the  Bey,  and  is  accompanied  by  drums  and 
lifes.  To  the  right  of  the  vestibule  is  the  Throne  Eoom,  containing  numer- 
ous and  for  the  most  part  miserably  bad  portraits  of  Beys  and  Tunisian 
dignitaries,   and   a   number  of  valuable    gifts   from  foreign  sovereigns.     In 


to  Tunis.  CARTHAGE.  42.  Route.     385 

one  of  the  adjoining  rooms  is  an  Antiquarian  Museum  (closed),  containing 
Roman  mosaics.     The  Balcony  commands  a  fine   view.  —  Fee,  1  fr. 

Adjacent  to  the  Bardo  is  the  chateau  of  Kasr  Said,  where  the 
late  Bey  resided,  with  uninteresting  and  neglected  gardens.  Ahout 
3Y2  M.  off  is  the  Manouba,  a  group  of  villas  belonging  to  the  Bey 
and  his  magnates,  and  here  also  is  a  Carthaginian  Aqueduct,  which 
is  still  used  in  supplying  the  town  with  excellent  running  water  from 
the  springs  of  Zaghouan,  about  20  M.  to  the  S.  of  Tunis.  Manouba 
is  a  station  on  the  railway  to  Algiers. 

4.  For  a  visit  to  the  Ruins  op  Carthage  an  entire  day  is 
required  (provisions  should  be  taken).  Return-tickets  to  La  Marsa 
(valid  on  both  lines,  p.  381)  should  be  taken,  and  the  train  quitted 
at  La  Malka.  Photographs  and  a  good  plan  of  the  environs  of  Car- 
thage (50  c.)  may  be  obtained  in  the  mission-station.  A  guide  may 
be  dispensed  with. 

Karthada,  or  'new  town',  as  the  city  was  originally  called,  was  founded 
by  the  Phoenicians  (Dido),  about  B.C.  880,  and  in  the  6th  cent.  B.C.  be- 
gan to  extend  its  dominion  over  the  W.  Mediterranean.  In  480  B.C.  the 
Carthaginians  came  into  hostile  contact  with,  the  Greeks  in  Sicily,  and  in 
264  B.C.  with  the  Romans.  The  town  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  by 
Agathocles  in  310-307,  menaced  by  the  Consul  Regulus  in  the  First  Punic 
War  in  255,  and  taken  and  entirely  destroyed  by  Scipio  in  146.  Augustus 
established  a  Roman  colony  here,  which  owing  to  the  incomparable  situ- 
ation of  the  town  and  the  fertility  of  its  environs,  soon  attained  the  rank 
of  the  third  city  of  the  empire.  In  A.D.  439  it  was  conquered  by  Gen- 
seric  and  made  the  capital  of  the  Vandal  empire,  but  in  533  succumbed  to 
the  attacks  of  Belisarius.  The  supremacy  of  the  Byzantine  emperors  was 
subverted  by  the  Arabs  in  647,  and  the  city  destroyed.  —  The  outline  of 
the  early  city  is  no  longer  traceable  in  consequence  of  its  having  so  fre- 
quently been  destroyed,  and  the  site  itself  has  undergone  extensive  changes; 
but  the  spot  where  the  Queen  of  the  seas  once  had  her  throne  is  still 
rich  in  interest. 

We  proceed  by  train  to  La  Malka,  near  the  railway-station  of 
which,  to  the  W.  of  the  line,  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  amphi- 
theatre. We  traverse  the  Arab  village  of  La  Malka  to  the  E.,  built 
upon  ancient  remains  known  as  the  Great  Cistern,  ife  M.  beyond 
which  lies  the  Byrsa,  or  castle  -  hill  of  ancient  Carthage,  crowned 
by  a  cathedral  in  the  Oriental  style ,  erected  by  Cardinal  Lavigerie 
(p.  386).  A  small  chapel  was  erected  on  this  hill  by  Louis  Phi- 
lippe in  1841  to  the  memory  of  his  ancestor  Louis  the  Saint,  who 
died  here  in  1270  when  engaged  in  a  crusade  against  Tunis.  The 
museum  at  the  mission-station  connected  with  the  chapel  contains 
an  interesting  collection  of  marble  sculptures,  small  bronzes,  lamps 
and  other  terracottas,  coins,  and  gems ,  arranged  and  described 
by  the  Abbe  Delattre,  the  erudite  director  of  the  mission  (admission 
on  Sun.,  Mon.,  Thurs. ,  and  Sat.,  2.30-6  p.m.).  The  garden  in 
which  the  chapel  stands,  and  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
harbour  of  Carthage  (see  p.  386),  contains  Phoenician  and  Roman 
inscriptions,  and  reliefs  of  the  Imperial  era.  There  is  also  a  frag- 
ment of  old  wall  here ,  with  two  niches.  This  hill  was  probably 
the  site  of  the  temple  of  the  god  of  healing  (the  Roman  ^Escula- 
pius) ,  which  rested  on  a  basement  approached  by  60  steps. 
Baedekeb.    Italv  Til.     11th  Edition.  25 


386     Route  42.  CARTHAGE. 

Due  S.  of  the  Byrsa  (Chapelle  de  St.  Louis)  was  situated  the  double 
Harbour  of  Carthage,  constructed  by  artificial  means  :  the  outer  or  commer- 
cial harbour  was  an  oblong  quadrangle ;  the  inner  or  naval  harbour,  the 
Kothon,  was  of  a  circular  form.  The  two  were  separated  by  the  city-wall, 
which  extending  E.  from  the  Byrsa,  excluded  the  neck  of  land  and  the 
outer  harbour,  but  included  the  naval  harbour,  so  that  the  entrance  to  the 
latter  must  have  been  closed  by  a  gate.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  naval  harbour 
was  situated  the  market-place,  connected  by  three  narrow  streets,  the  chief 
scene  of  contest  during  the  storming  by  Scipio,  with  the  castle,  which 
was  open  towards  the  town. 

About  3/4  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  St.  Louis  are  the  Little  Cisterns, 
seventeen  gigantic  barrel-vaulted  subterranean  chambers,  of  Phoe- 
nician origin  and  half- filled  with  water,  which  have  been  partly 
restored  since  1887.  The  neighbouring  Fort  Bordj  Djdid  com- 
mands a  fine  view. 

We  next  proceed  to  the  village  of  Srui  Bou  Said,  picturesquely 
situated  2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  St.  Louis  and  1 1/4  M.  from  the  cisterns, 
on  the  E.  extremity  of  the  peninsula  of  Cape  Carthage  or  Cape 
Cartagena  (380  ft.  above  the  sea"),  which  has  preserved  the  name  of 
the  ancient  town.  To  the  left  of  the  road,  the  remains  of  a  cathe- 
dral of  the  Vandals  were  recently  laid  bare.  Refreshments  may  be 
obtained  at  one  of  the  Arab  coffee-houses  of  the  village  ,  which 
has  maintained  its  Oriental  character  unimpaired  by  contact  with 
western  civilization.  The  Lighthouse  ('Phare'  on  the  Map;  fee 
V2  fr.)  commands  an  incomparable  **View.  The  site  of  ancient 
Carthage  lies  at  our  feet,  stretching  on  the  S.  almost  to  the  El 
Bahira  bay;  beyond  we  survey  the  whole  Gulf  of  Tunis  from  Cape 
Farina  on  the  W.  to  Cape  Bon  on  the  E. ,  and  in  the  distance  are 
the  hills  of  Boukournin ,  the  Djebel  Resas ,  the  mountains  of 
Zaghouan  (to  the  S.),  and -the  wide  plain  of  Tunis. 

We  turn  to  the  N.W.  from  the  lighthouse,  and  follow  the  cliffs 
forming  the  top  of  the  cape,  passing  the  palace  of  Cardinal  La- 
vigerie,  archbishop  of  Tunis,  to  (3/4  hr.)  La  Maksa,  a  station  on 
the  line  mentioned  at  p.  381,  with  the  residences  of  the  Bey  and  of 
Taieb  Bey,  the  heir-apparent,  the  country-house  of  the  French  min- 
ister, etc.  We  may  conclude  our  tour  here  ,  or  extend  it  with  ad- 
vantage for  172-2hrs.  more,  by  visiting  Djebel  Khaoui  and  Kamart. 

On  the  summit  and  slopes  of  the  Djebel  Khaoui  (345  ft.),  still 
dotted  with  numerous  remains  of  Punic  tombs ,  lay  the  necropolis 
of  Carthage.  It  commands  a  fine  view ,  to  the  S.  Tunis,  to  the 
N.W.  the  salt  lake  of  Sebkha  er-Rouan  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Utica,  and  to  the  E.  the  open  sea.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  N. 
lies  Kamart,  where  the  villa  of  Ben  Ayed,  charmingly  surrounded 
with  palm-trees,  may  be  visited.  The  neighbourhood  of  the  village, 
with  its  shifting  sand-hills,  affords  some  idea  of  the  appearance  of 
the  desert.  Near  it,  on  the  Sebkha  el-Rouan,  are  salt-works  belong- 
ing to  the  government. 

5.  The  excursion  to  Utica  takes  a  whole  day.  The  ruins  of  this  very 
ancient  Phoenician  seaport,  which  was  afterwards  the  headquarters  of  a 
Roman  proconsul,  where  the  younger  Cato  committed  suicide  (B.C.  46)  on 


Hotels-  CORFU.  43.  Route.     387 

'v6  Zffw  Wt  °f  P"™Pey's  Party  in  the  civil  war  against  Cffisar,  are  now 
situated  5  M.  from  the  coast.  They  do  not  repay  a  visit.  A  visit  to  Mo- 
mS  a,itndr/Vn„183J  (P-3.S2)'  and  the  "eighbonring  ruins  of  W« 
£  7  £'„„  nf  fh  •  6  E;  VxW^  th?  imP°sil>S  rem^°s  of  the  aqueduct 
of  Zaghouan  of  the  reign  of  Hadrian,  is  more  interesting. 

6.  The  warm  springs  and  baths  of  Hamm&m  Lif  lie  to  the  S  E  of  Tunis 
(ttJi/z  M.;  railway  in  1/2  hr.  from  the  French  station).  To  the  S.  of  Hammam 
Lif  (by  carnage  from  Tunis  in  2i/2  hrs.)  is  a  lead-mine  on  the  W  slope 
of  the  Djebel  Resas,  dating  from  the  Roman  period.  —  The  attractive  as- 
cent of  the  Boukoumin  (about  2300  ft.)  may  be  made  from  Hammam  Lif- 
extensive  view  from  the  top.  ' 

43.   Excursion  to  Corfu. 

A  Steamboat  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd  leaves  Brindisi  for  Corfu  once  a 
week ;  steamers  of  the  Florio-Rubattino  Co.  thrice  a  week,  making  the  trip 
in  about  12  hrs.  (fares  25  fr.  30,  16  fr.  90  c,  food  extra);  and  a  steamer  of 
a  Greek  company  once  a  week.  The  Austrian  and  Greek  steamers  return 
on  Thurs.  afternoon,  the  Florio-Eubattino  boats  on  Sun.  at  4  p.m.  and  on 
Wed.  at  2  p.m.  There  is  also  regular  steamboat  communication  between 
Corfu  and  Trieste,  the  Pireeus,  Alexandria,  etc. 

Monet.  The  French  system  has  been  introduced  into  Greece  :  1  drachma 
=  100  lepta  (centimes). 

A  visit  to  the  charming  island  of  Corfu  is  recommended  even  to  those 
who  have  only  two  or  three  days  at  their  disposal  and  are  consequently  un- 
able to  extend  their  excursion  to  Greece. 

Brindisi,  see  p.  200.  On  quitting  the  harbour  the  steamer  at 
once  steers  towards  the  S.E.,  and  the  land  soon  disappears.  Next 
day  towards  morning  the  outlines  of  Albania  (Turkey)  come  in 
sight,  and  later  the  island  of  Corfu.  Othonous,  Ertkousi,  and  the 
other  Othonian  Islands  are  seen  to  the  right.  On  the  left,  in  Al- 
bania, rise  the  lofty  peaks  of  Konto  Vouni.  The  scenery  of  the  wide 
Strait  of  Corfu,  separating  the  island  from  the  mainland,  is  very  im- 
posing. To  the  right  towers  Monte  S.  Salvatore,  the  loftiest  summit 
in  the  island.  The  beautifully  situated  town  of  Corfu  is  at  first 
concealed  by  the  island  of  Vido. 

Corfu.  —  Arrival.  Boat  to  or  from  the  steamer  1  fr.,  with  heavy 
luggage  I1/2-2  fr.  The  boatmen  are  insolent,  there  is  no  tariff,  and  great 
confusion  prevails,  so  that  the  traveller  had  better  allow  the  commission- 
naire  of  the  hotel  to  settle  with  the  boatmen  and  attend  to  the  luggage, 
for  which  a  charge  of  2-2i/2  fr.  is  made  in  the  bill.  The  custom-house 
examination  is  quickly  over. 

Hotels.  'Hotel  St.  George,  frequented  by  the  English;  "Hotel 
4Angleterre  &  Belle  Venise  ;  these  two  are  of  the  first  class,  with 
baths;  the  back -windows  overlook  the  Esplanade;  R.  from  3,  pension 
9-12,  for  a  long  stay  8-10  fr.,  L.  1-1 V2.  bottle  of  English  or  Vienna  beer  2, 
Corfu  wine  (sweet)  1,  Ithaca  wine  272  fr.  —  Hotel  d'Orient,  with  trat- 
toria, prettily  situated  on  the  esplanade;  "Hotel  de  Constantinople,  near 
the  Dogana,  unpretending;  Pension  Julie,  pens.  7-8  fr.,  well  spoken  of, 
adapted  for  a  stay  of  some  time. 

Cafes.  The  principal  caf^s  are  in  the  Esplanade,  at  the  beginning  of 
the  avenue  mentioned  at  p.  388;  cup  of  coffee  prepared  in  the  Turkish 
manner  15  c.  —  Beer  in  the  hotels,  at  Pappadtipoulo 's,  near  the  theatre, 
and  at  a  beer-saloon  in  the  Nikephoros  Street,  near  the  Esplanade;  Vienna 
beer  I1/2,  native  '/«  fr-  Per  bottle. 

British  Consul,  R.  Reade,  Esq.  —  United  States  Consular  Agent,  T. 
Woodley,  Esq. 

25* 


388    Route  43.  CORFU.  History. 

Post  Office,  adjoining  the  Sanita,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town  from 
the  sea. 

Steamboat  Offices,  near  the  post-office. 

Carriages  obtained  at  the  hotels,  5  fr.  per  drive  in  the  town  or  en- 
virons ;  for  longer  excursions,  see  p.  390. 

Valets-de-Place,  5  fr.  per  day,  may  he  dispensed  with. 

Theatre.    Italian  opera  in  winter. 

Climate.  In  the  latter  half  of  March,  in  April,  and  Map  the  climate 
of  Corfu  is  usually  charming,  and  a  residence  here  at  that  season,  amid 
its  luxuriant  vegetation,  is  delightful.  The  temperature  is  also  mild  and 
equable  during  October  and  the  beginning  of  November,  but  June,  July,  and 
August  are  very  hot,  and  in  winter  heavy  rains  and  sudden  changes  of 
temperature  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  As  a  winter-residence  for  inva- 
lids, particularly  those  with  pulmonary  complaints,  Corfu  therefore  com- 
pares unfavourably  with  the  best-known  health-resorts  of  Italy. 

Corfu,  the  capital  of  the  island  of  the  same  name  and  of  a 
nomarchy  or  province  including  the  islands  of  Paxos,  Antipaxos, 
and  Leukas  ,  and  the  seat  of  archMshops  of  the  Greek  and  Roman 
Catholic  churches,  is  one  of  the  most  prosperous  towns  in  modern 
Greece.  With  its  suburbs  of  Kastrades  or  Oaritza  and  Mandoukio, 
it  contains  25,000  inhab. ,  among  whom  are  4000  Roman  Catho- 
lics and  2700  Jews.  The  spacious  harbour  is  enlivened  with  an 
active  trade ,  consisting  chiefly  in  the  export  of  olive  oil  and 
the  import  of  Russian  grain  and  English  manufactures.  The  for- 
tifications constructed  by  the  Venetians,  the  Fortezza  Vecchia  to 
the  E.  of  the  town  and  the  Fortezza  Nuova  on  the  N.W.,  were 
once  of  great  strength,  hut  they  were  blown  up  by  the  English  be- 
fore their  departure  in  1864,  and  are  now  unimportant.  As  the 
town  was  formerly  enclosed  by  a  wall,  the  busy  streets  are  very 
narrow  and  the  houses  often  four  or  five  stories  high. 

Corfu  (Gr.  KiQxvga,  Lat.  Corcyra),  the  second,  but  most  important  of 
the  Ionian  Islands,  was  supposed  by  the  ancients  to  be  Scheria,  the  land 
of  the  Phseaci  and  of  their  king  Alcinous.  Colonised  from  Corinth  at  an 
early  period  (B.C.  734),  its  power  increased  so  greatly  as  to  become  dan- 
gerous to  its  mother-city ;  and  this  was  one  of  the  chief  causes  of  the 
Peloponnesian  War.  The  name  of  Corfu  came  into  use  in  the  middle  ages 
and  was  at  first  confined  to  the  rocky  heights  enclosed  in  the  old  fortifi- 
cations ;  it  seems  to  be  a  corruption  of  'Koryphous'.  From  1386  to  1797  the 
island  was  under  Venetian  supremacy ;  from  1815  to  1864  it  was,  with  the 
other  Ionian  Islands ,  under  the  protection  of  England  and  the  seat  of 
government,   after  which   it  was   ceded  to   the  kingdom  of  Greece. 

On  disembarking  we  cross  the  court  of  the  Dogana ,  pass  the 
Hotel  de  Constantinople  on  the  left,  and  follow  the  new  street 
called  Sulle  Mura,  which  skirts  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  affording 
numerous  fine  views,  and  reaches  the  Esplanade  near  the  Royal 
Palace.  Or  we  may  proceed  from  the  harbour  to  the  left  through  the 
principal  street  ('Rue  Nicephore')  to  the  Esplanade  in  5  minutes. 

The  Esplanade  is  an  extensive  open  space  between  the  town 
and  the  old  fortifications.  It  is  traversed  by  an  avenue  with  double 
rows  of  trees  ,  forming  a  prolongation  of  the  main  street.  On  the 
W.  side  it  is  bounded  by  a  row  of  handsome  houses  with  arcades 
on  the  ground-floor,  among  which  are  the  two  principal  hotels.  On 
the  N.  side  rises  the  — 


Kastrades.  CORFU.  43.  Route.  389 

Royal  Palace  ,  a  three-storied  edifice  with  two  wings  ,  in  grey 
Maltese  stone,  erected  for  the  British  Lord  High  Commissioner.  A 
handsome  marble  staircase  ascends  to  the  first  floor,  where  the 
vestibule  contains  an  antique  lion  couchant.  The  throne-room  is 
adorned  with  portraits  of  British  sovereigns,  and  the  council-cham- 
ber of  the  former  Ionian  Senate  contains  portraits  of  the  presidents 
(visitors  generally  admitted  on  application;  castellan,  1  fr.).  —  In 
front  of  the  palace  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Sir  Frederick  Adam,  who 
conferred  numerous  benefits  on  the  island  during  his  tenure  of 
office  as  Lord  High  Commissioner  (1823-32). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Esplanade  are  a  small  Circular  Temple  and  an 
Obelisk,  also  raised  in  honour  of  English  Commissioners. 

At  the  end  of  the  avenue  leading  to  the  fortress,  on  the  left,  is 
a  monument  commemorating  the  gallant  defence  of  Corfu  against 
the  Turks  by  the  Venetian  general  Count  von  der  Schulenburg  in 
1716.  "We  now  pass  the  sentinels,  cross  the  bridge  over  the  wide 
and  deep  moat,  and  reach  the  — 

*Fortezza  Vecchia ,  the  buildings  of  which  are  now  used  only 
for  barracks  and  a  military  hospital.  The  second  gateway  leads  to 
the  Commandant's  Residence,  where  we  obtain  permission  to  inspect 
the  works  in  the  office  (frourarchfon)  on  the  ground-floor  (to  the  left ; 
Italian  understood).  We  then  pass  through  another  gateway,  cross 
a  drawbridge  to  the  left,  and  traverse  a  long  vaulted  passage  ,  at 
the  end  of  which  we  give  up  our  permesso  to  a  sentinel.  The  ram- 
parts are  overgrown  with  vegetation.  The  platform  on  the  W.  side, 
reached  by  a  few  steps,  commands  a  superb  **View  of  the  town  of 
Corfu,  and  of  the  whole  island  from  Monte  Salvatore  and  Capo 
Cassopo  on  the  N.  to  Capo  Bianco  on  the  S.  Opposite  to  us  lies  the 
Turkish  coast  of  Epirus  with  its  lofty  mountains.  The  custodian, 
who  speaks  Italian,  lends  a  telescope  to  the  visitor  (25  c). 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Esplanade  is  the  Gymnasium  (last  house 
to  the  right),  with  a  fine  flight  of  steps.  On  the  open  space  in 
front  a  marble  Statue  of  Kapodistrias  was  erected  in  1887.  A  broad 
street  descends  hence  to  the  Boulevard  op  the  Empress  Eliza- 
beth, formerly  the  Strada  Marina,  which  is  a  favourite  evening 
promenade  of  the  Corfiotes.  In  6-8  min.  we  reach  the  entrance  of 
the  suburb  of  Kastrades  or  Oaritza,  where  the  dismantled  Fort  S. 
Salvador  rises  on  the  right.  Near  the  E.  base  of  the  dilapidated 
rampart,  about  200  paces  from  the  Boulevard  of  the  Empress  Eli- 
zabeth, is  the  Tomb  of  Menecrates,  a  low  circular  structure 
dating  from  the  6th  or  7th  cent.  B.C. 

The  Boulevard  of  the  Empress  Elizabeth  runs  hence  to  the  left 
along  the  coast,  and  ends  near  the  remains  of  an  old  wind-mill. 
We  follow  the  principal  street  towards  the  S.  ,  passing  a  church 
and  a  red  house.  In  5  min.  we  ascend  by  a  road  diverging-  to  the 
right,  opposite  the  circular  apse  of  the  old  church  of  S.  Corcyra.  The 
gate  on  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  royal  villa  of  *Monrepos  (  Villa 


390   Route  43.  CORFU.  Canone. 

Reale),  the  extensive  gardens  of  -which  command  beautiful  views  of 
the  town  and  fortress  of  Corfu  (open  free  on  Thurs.  and  Sun.  after- 
noons ;  on  other  days,  fee  y2-l  fr.). 

The  above-mentioned  road,  passing  the  entrance  to  the  Villa ,  leads 
to  the  village  of  Analipsis.  Near  the  village  a  path  diverges  to  the  left 
and  leads  through  a  grove  of  olives  towards  the  sea.  After  about  200  paces 
we  reach,  a  little  to  the  right,  the  interesting  and  curious  substructures 
of  an  Ancient  Temple  discovered  in  1822.  This  ruin  lies  about  100  ft. 
above  the  sea  in  a  narrow  ravine  called  Kardaki ,  a  name  also  extended 
to  the  surrounding  district. 

The  principal  street  follows  the  W.  slope  of  the  hilly  peninsula, 
which  extends  to  the  S.  between  the  Lake  of  Kaliki6poulo  and  the 
sea.  This  was  probably  the  site  of  the  ancient  town,  the  principal 
commercial  harbour  of  which  was  formed  by  the  Bay  of  Kastrades, 
while  the  lake  of  Kalikiopoulo,  now  silted  up,  seems  to  have  been 
the  ancient  Hyllaean  Harbour,  used  as  a  station  for  vessels  of  war. 
The  street,  which  is  much  frequented  on  fine  evenings,  is  flanked 
by  rose  and.  orange  gardens,  and  farther  on  by  beautiful  olive  groves. 
It  ends,  about  2  M.  from  the  Esplanade,  in  a  circular  space, 
named  the  Canone,  or  One-gun  Battery,  commanding  a  beautiful 
*View  of  the  E.  coast. 

Opposite  the  entrance  to  the  old  Hyllsean  harbour  lies  the  islet  of 
Pondikonisi  (mouse-island) ,  said  to  be  the  Phseacian  ship ,  which  had 
brought  Ulysses  to  Ithaca  and  was  afterwards  converted  into  stone  by 
Poseidon.  The  mouth  of  a  brook  on  the  S.W.  side  of  Lake  Kalikiopoulo, 
which  is  called  Kressida,  is  pointed  out  as  the  place  where  Ulysses  was 
cast  ashore  and  met  the  princess  Nausicaa. 

Several  charming  *Excursions  may  be  made  from  the  capital 
into  the  interior  of  the  island,  which,  thanks  to  the  English  admin- 
istration ,  is  almost  everywhere  traversed  by  good  carriage-roads. 

To  the  South.  —  To  the  Monte  S.  Deca  (1860  ft.),  Greek 
Hagi  Deka,  by  carriage  (15  fr. ;  there  and  back  6hrs.).  "We  drive 
to  the  village  of  the  same  name  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  then 
ascend  with  a  guide  to  the  top  in  1  hour.  Splendid  panorama, 
especially  of  the  Albanian  coast.  We  descend  by  a  rough  goat-path 
to  (lhr.)  Epano-Oarouna  and  thence  walk  to  (^hr.)  S.  Teddoro  or 
Hagios  Theddoros,  where  the  carriage  should  be  ordered  to  meet  us 
(to  Corfu  a  drive  of  l1^  hr.).  —  To  Oasturi  and  Benizza,  about 
11  M.,  by  carriage  (15  fr.)  in  2i/2  hrs.  The  road  skirts  the  lake  of 
Kalikiopoulo  and  then  ascends  in  windings  to  (O'/jM.)  Oasturi,  a 
prettily  situated  village,  with  the  magnificent  Villa  Achilleion,  be- 
longing to  the  Empress  of  Austria.  Fine  view  from  the  church  above. 
Thence  we  descend  in  windings  (myrtles  numerous)  to  (l3/4  M.) 
Benizza.  Wear  the  priest's  house  are  the  well-preserved  remains  of 
a  Roman  villa  in  a  line  orange-grove,  whose  owner  invites  visitors 
to  taste  the  fruit  (fee  1-2  fr.).  Close  by  is  the  source  for  the  aque- 
duct of  Corfu. 

To  the  West.  —  To  Pelleka  (there  and  back  in  31/2-4  hrs., 
carr.  12  fr.)  and  the  W.  coast  of  the  island.  On  leaving  the  carr- 
iage we  engage  a  boy  to  guide  us  to  the  top  of  the  hill  (890  ft.), 


CORFU.  43.  Route.     391 

whence  an  admirable  view  is  enjoyed,  very  beautiful  towards 
sunset. 

To  the  North.  —  To  Oovino,  with  the  remains  of  a  Venetian 
arsenal,  situated  on  a  beautiful  bay.  We  go  via  Alipoii  and  return 
by  Potamb,  an  exquisite  drive  of  2'/2-3  hrs.  (carr.  8-10  fr.). 

To  Palaokastrizza,  a  whole  day,  carriage  25  fr.,  a  very  pleasant 
road  with  beautiful  views.  About  halfway  to  Palseokastrizza,  near 
the  Bridge  of  Pheleka,  the  road  to  the  N.  part  of  the  island  diverges 
from  that  leading  to  Govino  (p.  390),  and  crosses  the  highest 
range  of  hills  in  the  island  by  the  Pass  of  S.  Pantaleone.  To  the 
right  towers  the  Monte  S.  Salvatore,  Greek  Pantokrator  (2990  ft. ; 
ascent  from  Olyphb,  the  landing-station  for  the  high-lying  village 
of  Signes).  The  monastery  of  Palceokastrizza  lies  on  a  rock  in  a  bay 
on  the  "W.  side  of  the  island,  and  commands  an  admirable  view  of 
the  coast  and  the  beautiful  blue  sea. 

For  a  more  detailed  account  of  Corfu,  see  Baedeker's  Handbook 
to  Greece, 


List 


of  the  most  important  Artists  mentioned  in  the  Handbook ,  with  a 
note  of  the  schools  to  which  they  belong. 

Abbreviations :  A.  =  architect ,  P.  =  painter,  S.  =  sculptor ;  ca.  = 
circa,  about;  B.  =  Bolognese,  Flor.  =  Florentine,  Ferr.  =  Ferrarese, 
Mess.   =  Messinese,  Neap.  =  Neapolitan,  Rom.  =  Roman,  etc. 

The  Arabic  numerals  enclosed  within  brackets  refer  to  the  art-notices 
throughout  the  Handbook,  the  Roman  figures  to  the  Introduction. 


Aetion,  Greek  P.,  2nd  cent.  A.  D.  — 

(xl). 
Ainimolo,  Vincenzo  diPavia  (  Vine.  Ro- 
mano), Palerm.  P.,  d.  1540.  —  (245). 
Alibrando,  Girol.,  Mess.  P.,  1470-1524. 
Allegri,  Ant.,  see   Correggio. 
Amerighi,  see  Caravaggio,  Mich. 
Angelico  da  Fiesole,  Fra  Giov.,  Flor. 

P.,  1387-1455. 
Apelles,  Greek  P.,   356-308  B.  C.  — 

(xxxix). 
Apollodorus ,    Greek   P.,   end   of  5th 

cent.  B.  C.  —  (xxxviii). 
Apollonius    of    Tralles,     Greek     S., 

brother  of  Tauriseus.  —  (xxxvi). 
Aquila,  Silvestro  dell\  S.,  15th  cent. 
— ,    Pomp  to ,  d\  P.,   second   half   of 

16th  cent. 
Aristides,  Greek  P.,  370-330  B.  C.  — 

(xxxix). 
Amolfo  del  (di)  C'ambio,  see  Cambio. 
Arpino,    Cavalier e    <T   (Gius.    Cesari), 

Rom.  P.,  ca.  1560-1640. 
Auria,  Bom.  d',    Neap.  S.,   pupil  of 

Giov.  da  Nola,  d.  1585. 
Baboceio,  Ant.,  Neap.  S.,  A.,  1351-  ca. 

1415. 
Barbieri,  see  Guercino. 
Barisano,    bronze  -  founder ,    end    of 

12th  cent. 
Bartolommeo  della  Porta,  Fra,  Flor. 

P.,  1475-1517. 
Bassano,  Jacopo  (da  Ponte),  Ven.  P., 

1510-92. 
— ,  Leandro  (da  Ponte)  ,   son   of  Ja- 
copo, Ven.  P.,  1558-1623. 
Bazzi,  Giov.  Ant.,  see  Sodoma. 
Bellini,  Gentile,  brother  of  Giovanni, 

Ven.  P.,  1421-1507. 
— ,   Giovanni,  Ven.  P.,  1426-1516. 
Belotti,  Bern.,  see  Canaletto. 
Beltraffio,  see  Boltraffio. 
Bernardi,    Giov.,   da   Castelbolognese, 

Bol.  goldsmith,  d.  1554. 


Bernini    Giov.  Lorenzo,  Rom.  A.,  S., 

1589-1680. 
Bigordi,  see  Ghirlandajo. 
Bol,  Ferd.,  Dutch  P.,  1611-81. 
Boltraffio    (Beltraffio),     Giov.    Ant, 

Mil.  P.,  pupil  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci, 

1467-1516. 
Bonannus,  Pisan  A.,  S.,  end  of  12th 

cent. 
Bonito,  Nice,  Rom.  P.,  18th  cent. 
Bonvicino,  see  Moretlo. 
Botticelli,  Aless.  or  Sandro,  Flor.  P., 

1446-1510. 
Bronzino,  Angelo,  Flor.  P.,  1502-72. 
Brueghel,  Pieter,  the  Elder,  Flemish 

P.,  1520-69. 
Buonarroti,  see  Michael  Angelo. 
Buono  (Buoni),   Silvestro,   Neap.    P., 

d.  1480. 
Calabrese,   il  (Matteo    Preti),   Neap. 

P.,  1613-09. 
Caliari,  Paolo,  see   Veronese. 
Cambiaso ,Luca,  GenoveseP.,  1527-85. 
Cambio,   Amolfo  del  (di),   Flor.  A., 

S.,  1240-1311.  —  (xlix). 
Camilliani  (Camillani),  Flor.  S.,  end 

of  lbth  cent. 
Camuccini,  Vine,  Rom.  P.,  1773-1844. 
Camulio,   Bartol.  da,    Sicil.  P.,   14th 

cent. 
Canaletto    (Bern.    Belotti),    Ven.   P., 

1724-80. 
Canova,  Antonio,  S.,  1757-1832. 
Cappuccino  Genovese,  see  Strozzi. 
Caracci,  see  Carracci. 
Caracciolo,     Giov.   Ball.    (sum.   Bat- 

tistello),  Neap.  P.,  d.  1641.    —  (1). 
Caravaggio,  Michael  Angelo  Amerighi 

da,  Lomb.  and  Rom.  P.,  1569-1609. 
— ,   Polidoro  Caldara  da,   Rom.  P., 

1495-1543.  —  (1). 
Carracci,    Annibale,    Bol.    P.,    1560- 

1609. 
— ,  Lodovico,  Bol.  P.,  1555-1619. 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


393 


Cavallini,  Pietro,  Rom.  P.,  14th  cent. 

—  (xlix). 

Celebrano,    Franc,    Neap.    S.,    18th 

cent. 
Cellini,  Benvenuto,  Flor.  S.  and  gold- 
smith, 1500-72. 
Ciccione,  Andrea,    Neap.  A.,    S.,   d. 

1457. 
Claude   le  Lorrain   (GelUe),   French 

P.,  1600-82. 
Conca,  Seb.,  Neap.  P.,  1679-1764. 
Conradini    (Corrad.),    Ant.,     S.,     d. 

1752. 
Corenzio,  Belisario,  P. ,  1558-1643.  —  (1). 
Cornelissen,  Jacob,  Dutch  P.,  1516th. 

cent.  —  (266). 
Correggio  (Antonio  Allegri  da),  Parm. 

P.,  1494?-1534. 
Corso,  Vine,  Neap.  P.,  d.  1545. 
Cosmati,     Rom.     family    of     stone- 

mosaicists,  13th  cent. 
Cranach,    Luc,    German    P.      1472- 

1553. 
Credi,  Lorenzo  di,  Flor.  P.,  1459-1537. 
Crescenzio,  Ant.,  Sicil.  P.,   first  half 

of  15th  cent.  —  (259). 
Criscuolo,  Giov.  Fil.,  Neap.  P.,  1495- 

1584. 
Critios,  Greek  S.,  5th  cent.  B.  C.  — 

(xxxiii). 
Crivelli,  Carlo,  Yen.  P.,  ca.  1468-93. 
Dolci,  Carlo,  Flor.  P.,  1616-86. 
Domenichino    (Domenico     Zampieri), 

Bol.  P.,  A.,  1581-1641.  —  (1). 
Donatello  (Donato  di  Niccolb  di  Betti 

Bardi),  Flor.  S.,  1386-1466. 
Donzello,  Piero  and  Ippol,  Neap.  P., 

alleged   pupils    of   Zingaro ,     15th 

cent.  —  (xlix). 
barer,  Albr.,  German  P.,   1471-1528. 
Dyck,  Ant.  van,  Flem.  P.,  1599-1641. 
Buphranor,  Greek  S.,  P.,  375-335  B.  C. 

—  (xxxix). 

Eyck,  Hubert  van,  Flemish  P.,  born 

ca.  1360-70,  d.  ca.  1426. 
— ,   Jan  van,   Flemish   P.,  born  ca. 

1381-95,  d.  1440. 
Fabriano,    Gentile    da,  Umbr.  P., 

1370-1450. 
Falcone,  Aniello,  Neap.  P.,  1600-1665. 

-(1). 
Fansaga,  Cosimo,  P.,  S.,  A.,  1591-1678. 
Fiesole,    Fra   Giovanni  Angelico   da, 

see  Angelico. 
Finoglia,    Paolo   Bom.,  Neap.  P.,    d. 

1656. 
Fiore,  Agnetlo  del,  Neap.  S.,  d.  ca. 

1500. 
— ,  Colantonio  del  (Nice.  Tomasi),  P., 

14th  cent.  _„  4an. 

Fontana,  Dom.,  Rom.  A.,  1543-1807. 
Fontana,  Lavinia,  Bol.  P.,  1552-1602. 
Franco,  Agnolo,  Neap.  P.,  d.  ca.  1440. 


Fuccio,  A.,  first  half  of  13th  cent. 
Fuga,  Fernando,  Rom.  A.,  1699-1780. 
Gabriele  a" Agnolo,  Neap.  A.,  ca.  1496. 
Gaetano,    Scipione ,    Neap.    P.,    16th 

cent. 
Gagini    (Gaggini),     Ant.,    Sicil.     S., 

born  1480,  and  sons.  —  (245). 
Gargiulo,  Dom.,  sum.  Micco  Spadaro, 

Neap.  P.,  1612-79. 
Garofalo    (Benvenuto    Tisio) ,    Ferr. 

P.,  1481-1559. 
Ghirlandajo,    Dom.    (Dom.    Bigordi), 

Flor.  P.,  1449-94. 
Giordano,    Luca,    surn.    Fa    Presto, 

Neap.  P.,  ca.  1632-1705.  —  (1). 
Giotto  (di  Bondone),  Flor.  P.,  A.,  S., 

1276-1337.  —  (xlix). 
Guercino,    il  (Giov.  Franc.  Barbieri), 

Bol.  P.,  1590-1666. 
Hackert,  Phil.,  German  P.,  1737-1807. 
Hayez,  Franc,  Ital.  P.,  born  1791. 
Kaufmann,  Maria  Angelica,  German 

P.,  1741-1807. 
Lama,    Gian    Bernardo,    Neap.    P., 

1508-79. 
Lanfranco,    Giov.,   Lomb.  and  Rom. 

P.,  1580?-1647. 
Leonardo  da  Vinci,   P.,  S.,  A.,  1452- 

1519. 
Lotto,  Lorenzo,  Ven.  P.,  1480?-1554? 
Lucas  van  Leyden   (Luca  d'Olanda), 

Dutch  P.,  1494-1533. 
Luini,   Bernardino,   Mil.   P.,    14707- 

1530?. 
Maglione,   Flor.  P.,  S.,   second   half 

of  13th  cent. 
Majano,  Benedetto  da,  Flor.  A.,  S., 

1442-97. 
— ,   Giuliano  da,  Flor.  A.,  1432-90. 
Mantegna,  Andrea,  Pad.  P.,  1431-1506. 
Masuccio  the  Elder,  Neap.  A.,  S.,  ca. 

1230-1305. 
— ,   the    Younger,   Neap.   A.,   S.,   ca. 

1291-1388. 
Mazzoni,  Guido  (il  Modanino),  Mod. 

S     d    1518 
Mazzuola,  Fil.,  Parm.  P.,  d.  1505. 
— ,  Franc,  see  Parmigianino. 
Mengs,  Anl.  Raphael,  P.,  1728-79. 
Merliano,  Giov.,  see  Nola,_  Giov.  da. 
Messina,    Antonello  da,    Sicil.  P.,  b. 

after  i410,  d.  ca.  1493.  —  (245). 
Michael   Angelo   Buonarroti ,    A.,  S., 

P.,  1475-1564. 
Michelozzo,  Flor.  A.,  S.,  1391-1472. 
Mignard,  Pierre,  French  P.,  1612-95. 
Modanino,  see  Mazzoni. 
Monrealese,  see  Novelli,  Pietro, 
Montorsoli,  Fra  Giov.  Ang.,  Flor.  S., 

ca.  1506-63. 
Moretto  da  Brescia  (Alessandro  Bon- 
vicini  or  Bonvicino),  Ven.  P.,  1498- 
1555. 


394 


LIST  OF   ARTISTS. 


Murano,  Bartol.  da,  see   Yivarini. 
Nesiotes,  Greek  S.,  5th  cent.  B.  C.  — 

(xxxiii). 
Nicias,  Greek   P.,   ca.   348-308  B.  C. 

—  (xxxix). 

Nicomachus,    Greek    P.,     about    400 

B.  C.  —  (xxxix). 
Nola,     Giov.     da     (Giov.    Merliano), 

Neap.  S.,  1478-1559. 
Novelli,  Pietro  (il  Monrealese),  Sicil. 

P.,  1603-47.  —  (245). 
Palma  Vecchio,  Giac,  Ven.  P.,  1480- 

1528. 
Pannini,  Giov.  Paolo,  Bom.  P.,  1695- 

1768. 
Papa,    Simone,   the  Elder,  Neap.  P., 

15th  cent.  —  (xlix). 
— ,    Sim.,    the    Younger,    Neap.    P., 

1506-67. 
Parmeggiano  or  Parmigianino 

(Francesco    Mazzuola),    Parm.    P., 

1503-40. 
Parrhasius ,    Greek   P.,    end    of  5th 

cent.  B.  C.  —  (xxxviii). 
Pasiteles,  Greco-Rom.  S.,  72-48  B.  C. 

—  (xxxvi). 

Pausias,  Greek  P.,  4th  cent.  B.  C. 

—  (xxxix). 

Pauson  ,   Greek  P.,   about  400  B.  C. 

(xxxiii). 
Perugino,    Pietro  (Pietro    Vannucci), 

Umbr.  P.,  1446-1524. 
Phidias,  Greek  S.,  500-430  B.  C. 
Pinturicchio,  Bern.,   Umbr.  P.,  1454- 

1513. 
Piombo,  Sebasl.  del,  see  Sebastiano. 
Pippi,  see  Romano. 
Pisano,    Giov.,    Pis.    A.,   8.,    son   of 

Niccolo,  d.  1320. 
— ,  Mccola(b),  Pis.  A.,  S.,  d.  1278. 
Polidoro,  see  Caravaggio. 
Polycletus,  Greek  S.,  5th  cent.  B.  C. 

__  ("xxxiv} 
Polygnotus,  Greek  P.,  480-30  B.  C.  — 

—  (xxxvii). 

Pontormo,  Jac.  (Carrucci)  da,   Flor. 

P.,  1494-1557. 
Porta,  Bart,  delta,  see  Bartolommeo. 
— ,  Guglielmo  delta,  Lomb.  S.,  d.  1577. 
Praxiteles,  Greek  S.,  about  364  B.  C. 
Prete  Genovese,  see  Strozzi. 
Preti,  Matteo,  see  Calabrese. 
Puligo,  Bom.,  Flor.  P.,  1475-1527. 
Queirolo,  Ant.,  S.,  18th  cent. 
Raphael    Santi    da    Vrbino,    P.,    A., 

1483-1520. 
Rembrandt  Harmensz  van  Rijn,  Dutch 

P.,  1607-69. 
Reni,  Ouido,  Bol.  P.,  1574-1642. 
Ribera,  see  Spagnoletto. 
Robusti,  see  Tintoretto. 
Romanelli,  Giov.  Franc.,  P.,  ca.  1610- 

62. 


Romano,  Giulio  (G.  Pippi),  Bom.  P., 

A.,  1492-1546. 
Rosa,  Salvator,  Neap.  P.,  1615-73.  — 

(!)• 
Rossellino,  Ant.,  Flor.  S.,  A.,  b.  1427, 

d.  ca.  1478. 
Rubens,  Petrus  Paulus,    Flemish  P., 

1577-1640. 
Ruzulone,  Pietro,  Sicil.  P.,  15th  cent. 

—  (245). 
Sabattini,  Andr.,  see  Salerno,  Andr. 

da. 
Salerno,  Andrea  da  (Andr.  Sabattini), 

Neap.    P.,    follower    of    Raphael, 

1480-1545.  —  (1). 
Saliba,  Antonello  da,    Sicil.  P.,  15th 

cent.  —  (245). 
Sammartino ,    Gius.,  Neap.   S.,  1728- 

1800. 
Sanctis,  Giac.  de,  Neap.  A.,  d.  1543. 
Sangallo,  Francesco  da,   son  of  Giu- 

liano  da  S.,  Flor.  S.,  1497-1575. 
Santacroce,  Girol.  (da),  Ven.  P.,  ca. 

1520-49. 
Santafede,   Fabrizio,  Neap.  P.,  1560- 

1634. 
— ,   Francesco,   Neap.   P.,    father   of 

Fabrizio,  16th  cent. 
Sarto,  Andrea  del,  Flor.  P.,  1487-1531. 
Sassoferrato  (Giov.  Bait.  Salvi),  Rom. 

P.,  1605-85. 
Schidone,  Bart.,  Mod.  P.,  d.  1615. 
Scilla,  Agost.,  Sicil.  P.,  1639-1700. 
Sebastiano    del    Piombo,    Ven.     and 

Rom.  P.,  1485-1547. 
Serpotta,    Giacomo ,   Sicil.    S.,   1655- 

1732.  —  (245). 
Sesto,    Cesare  da,   Mil.  P.,   pupil   of 

Leonardo  da  Vinci,   d.  after  1524. 
Siciliano,  Giov.  Bernardino,  Neap.  P., 

S.,  1606-87. 
Siena,  Marco  da,  P.,  A.,  second  half 

of  16th  cent. 
— ,  Matteo  da,  P.,  middle  of  16th  cent. 
Simone   di    Martino    (Sim.    Martini), 

Sien.  P.,  1283-1344.  —  (xlix). 
Sddoma,  il  (Giov.  Ant.  Bazzi),   Sien. 

and  Lomb.  P.,  ca.  1473-1549. 
Solario,  Ant.,  see  Zingaro. 
Solimena,  Franc,  (sum.  Abbale  Ciccio) 

Neap.  P.,  1657-1747. 
Spada,  Lionello,  Bol.  P.,  1556-1622. 
Spagnoletto    (Gius.    Ribera),    Span.- 

Neap.  P.,  1588-1656.  —  (1). 
Stanzioni,  Massimo,  Neap.  P.,    1585- 

1656.  —  (1). 
Slefani,    Pietro  degli,    Neap.    S.,  P., 

b.  1228,  d.  after  1318. 
— ,    Tommaso   degli,    Neap.  P.,  1231- 

1310. 
Strozzi,   Bernardo  (il  Cappuccino   or 

il    Prete    Genovese),    Genovese   P., 

1581-1644. 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


395 


Tauriscusof  Tralles,  Greek  S.,  brother 
of  Apollonius.  —  (xxxvi). 

Thorvaldsen,  Bertel,  Danish  S.,  1770- 
1844. 

Timantkes,  Greek  P.,  about  400 B.C. 

—  (xxxix). 

Timomachus,  Greek  P.,  about  300B.  C. 

-  (xl). 

Tintoretto,  il  (Jac.  Roousti),  Ven.  P., 
1518-94. 

Tisio,  Benven.,  see  Garofalo. 

Titian  (Tiziano  Vecellio  da  Cadore), 
Ven.  P.,  1477-1575 

Traversa  (ChaHes  Franc,  de  la  Tra- 
verse), French  P.,  d.  1778. 

Vaccaro,  Andrea,  Neap.  P.,  1598-1670. 

Vannucci,  Pietro,  see  Perugino. 

Vanvilelli,  Luigi,  A.,  1700-73. 

Vasari,  Giorgio,  Flor.  P.,  A.,  and 
writer  on  art,  1512-74. 


Vecellio,   Tiziano,  see  Titian. 
Velazquez  (Diego  V.  de  Silva),  Span. 

P.,  1599-1660. 
Venusli,Marcello,  P.,  pupil  of  Michael 

Angelo,  d.  ca.  1570. 
Veronese ,    Paolo  (P.   Caliari),   Ven. 

P.,  1528-88. 
Vigilia,  Tommaso  di,  Sicil.  P.,  pupil  of 
Ant.  Crescenzio,  15th  cent.  —  (245). 
Vincenzo  di  Pavia,  see  Ainemolo. 
Vinci,  Leonardo  da,  see  Leonardo. 
Vivarini,  Alwise  (or  Luigi),  Ven.  P., 

ca.  1464-1503. 
— ,    Bart.  (Bart,  da  Murano),   Ven. 

P.,  ca.  1450-99. 
Zampieri,  see  Domenichino. 
Zeuxis,  Greek  P.,  4th  cent.  B.  C.  — 

(xxxviii). 
Zingaro,  lo  (Ant.  Solario),  Neap.  P., 
ca.  1382-1455.  —  (xlix). 


INDEX. 


^.bacaenum  312. 
Abbadiazza  321. 
Abbasanta  372. 
Abella  174. 
Abettintim  175. 
Abruzzi,  the  176. 
Acciano  181. 
Acerenza  209. 
Acerra  10. 
Acerrae  10. 
Acherontia  195.  209. 
Acherusian  Lake  102. 
Aci  Castello  332. 
Aci,  Isola  <T  332. 
Acireale  245.  332. 
Aciris  213. 
Acithis  285. 

—  Acqua  Dolce  310. 
Acquasanta  268. 
Acquaviva  delle   Fonti 

200. 

Platani  292. 

Acme  234.  3U6. 

Acragas  234.  293. 

Acri  219. 

Acrocoro  della  Torre  307. 

Adernd  335. 

.Egadian  Islands  226. 287. 

jEgimures  380. 

jEnaria  105. 

^Eolian  Islands  323. 

JZsemia  185. 

.Etna,  Mount  341.  228. 

^tna  335. 

S.  Agata,   near  Sorrento 

151. 

—  de'  Goti  204. 

—  del  Militello  310. 
Agathyrnum  233. 
Ager  Falernus  18. 

—  Taurianus  220. 
Agerola  146. 
Agira  233.  301. 
Agnano,  Lago  d1  92. 
S.  Agnello  147. 
Agno,  the  10. 
Agnone  349. 
Agosta  350. 

Agri,  river  208.  213. 
Agrigentum  293. 


Agropoli  166. 

Agyrium  233.   301. 

Aielli  184. 

Alabon  350. 

Alaesa  310. 

Alanno  186. 

Alaro  216. 

Alatri  2. 

Alba  Fucensis  182. 

Albanella  166. 

Albano  11. 

—  di  Lucania  209. 

Albe  182. 

Alberi  152. 

Alburnus  207. 

Alcamo  277. 

Alcantara,  river  228.  331 

333.  350. 
Alento,  river  191. 
Alessano  203. 
S.  Alessio,  Capo  326. 
Alesus  310. 
Aletrium  2. 
Alezio  202. 
S.  Alfio  331. 
Alghero  374. 
All  326. 
Alia  292. 
Alicata  303. 
Alicuri  325. 
Alimena  291. 
Alipou  390. 

Altarello  di  Baida  272. 
Altavilla  175.  290. 
Altilia  192. 
Alto  Campana  181. 
Aluntium  233.  310. 
Amalfi  169. 
Amantea  224. 
Amantia  224. 
Amaro,    Monte    185.  191. 
Amaseno,  river  12. 
Amenamis,  river  340. 
Amendola  193. 
Amendolara  214. 
Amendolea  217. 
Amestralus  310. 
Amiternum  180. 
Amorosi  204. 
Amyclae  15. 


Anacapri  157. 

Anagni  1. 

Anagnia  2. 

Analipsis  390. 

Anapus,  river  364. 

Anazzo  200. 

Ancona  176. 

S.  Andrea  216. 

— ,  Monte  15. 

Andria  196. 

S.  Angelo,  Castel  177. 

— ,  Monastery  174. 

— ,  Monte,  near  Terracina 

14. 
— ,  — ,  Lipari  323.  324. 
— ,  — ,  the  Little  151. 
— ,  — ,  near  Manfredonia 

193. 
— ,  — ,  near  Sorrento  145. 
—  in  Formis  9. 
Angri  160. 
S.  Annunziata  (Eavello) 

172. 
Antas,  Temple  of  371. 
Antenna,  Pizzo  226.  309. 
Antennamare  321. 
Antignano  89. 
S.  Antimo  203. 
Antinum  187. 
S.  Antioco  365.  371. 
S.  Antonio  332. 
Antrodoco  177. 
Antrosano  182. 
Vntullo,  Pozzo  d'  2. 
Anversa  184. 
Anxanum  191. 
Anxur  13. 
Aouina,  El  381. 
Apennines,  the  176.  177. 
Apice  206. 
Apollonia  310. 
Appula  200. 
Apricena  192. 
Aqua  Cornelia  290. 
Aquae   Cutiliae  177. 
Aquila  178. 
Aquino  3. 
Aquinum  3. 
Aragona  292.  299. 
Aranci,  Fiumara  degli  312. 


INDEX. 


397 


Aranci,  Golfo  degli  373. 
Arancia,  Fiumara  312. 
Arbore  152. 
Arce  18S. 
Archi-Eeggio  223. 
Arco,  the  146. 
Arco  Felice  103. 

—  Naturale  156. 
Ardara  373. 
Ardore  217. 
Arena  Bianca  220. 
Ariano  di  Puglia  206. 
Arienzo  10. 

Aritzo  376.  372. 

Armi,  Capo  dell'  217. 

Armstrong,  Cantiere  97. 

Arpaia  10.   . 

Arpi  193. 

Arpinas,  Insula  187. 

Arpino  188. 

Arpinum  188. 

Arsoli  181. 

Artemisio,  Monte  11. 

Artena  11. 

Artesino,  Monte  300. 

Arx  Volscorum  194. 

Asaro,  233. 

Ascensione,   Monte   dell' 

189.     . 
Ascoli  Piceno  189. 
-,  Porto  d1  189.  190. 

—  Satriano  194. 
Asculum  Picenum  189. 
Asinara  365. 
Asinarus  306. 
Asinello  285. 

Aso,  brook  189. 

Aspra  276. 

Aspromonte,  Mt.  218. 217. 

222.  224. 
Assaro  301. 
Assemini  371. 
Assergi  180. 
Assorus  233.  301. 
Astore,  Monte  221. 
Astroni  93. 
Atella  203.  209. 
Atena  207. 

Aterno,  river  178. 180. 190. 
Atina  207. 
Atrani  169. 
— ,  valley  of  171. 
Atri  190. 

Atrio  del  Cavallo  113 
Atripalda  175. 
Aufidus  194.  207. 
Augusta  350. 
Auletta  207. 
Auricarre  199. 
Ausculum  Apulum  194. 
Avella  174. 
Avellino  175. 
Avernus  Lacus  98. 


Aversa  203. 
Avezzano  182. 
Avigliano  209. 
Avola  306. 

Bacoli  100. 

Badia  di   S.  Spirito  185. 

299. 
Badofato  216. 
Bagaria  or  Bagheria  275. 
Bagnara  222. 
Bagni  di  Nerone  98. 
Bagno  d'Ischia  106, 

—  del  Purgatorio   118. 

—  delta  Regina  Gio- 
vanna  149. 

Bagnoli  93. 

Bagnolo  del  Salento  203. 

Bahira,  El  381. 

Baiae  99. 

Baiano  174. 

Baida  273. 

Baja  99. 

Balensul  306. 

Balestrate  277. 

Balsorano  187. 

Balvano  208. 

Balzo    di    Trifoglietto 

348. 
Bambina  283. 
Bantia  195. 

Banzi,  Abbadia  de'  195. 
Baragiano  208. 
Baranica  151. 
Barano  108. 
Baranello  192. 
Barbagia,  la  376. 
Barbaro,  Monte  279. 
Barbarossa,    Castello    di 

157. 
Barcellona  312. 
S.  Bardiglio  370. 
Bardo,  the  384. 
Bari  198. 
— ,  Terra  di  176. 
Barium  198. 
Barletta  196. 
Baronisi  165. 
Barra,  La  112. 
Barrafranca  302. 
Barrali  375. 

Bartolommeo,    river 

277. 
Basento,    river   208. 
Basilicata,  the  176.  £03. 
S.  Basilio  200. 
Pisticci  213. 
Basiluzzo  325. 
Batinus  190. 
Battaglia  199. 
Battipaglia  165.  207. 
Baucina  289. 
Bauladu  372. 


Baull  100. 

Bauso  313. 

Beffi  181. 

Belice,  river  288. 

Bella  203. 

Bellante  190. 

Belmonte,  in  Calabria 

224. 
— ,  near  Palermo   274. 
Belpasso  335. 
Belvedere  (Calabria)  223. 

—  (near   Castellammare] 
146. 

—  (near  Syracuse)  360. 
Belvi  376. 

S.  Benedetto  184.  189. 
Benevento  204. 
Beneventum  205. 
Berchidda  373. 
Bernalda  209. 
S.  Biagio,  river  303. 
Biancavilla  335. 
Bianconuovo  217. 
Bicocca  302.  349. 
Bifarera  289. 
Biferno,  river  192. 
Bilice,  valley  of  the  298. 
Billiemi,  Monti  276. 
Birgi,  river  285. 
Birori  372. 
Bisacquino  289. 
Bisceglie  197. 
Bisignano  219. 
Bitetto  199. 
Bitonto  197. 
Bivona  221. 
Blandano  332. 
Blue  Grotto  158. 
Boccadifalco  272. 
Boeo,  Capo  226.  234. 
Boiano  185. 

Bolognetta  Marineo   289. 
Bon,  Cape  380.  226. 
Bonea  Grotto  162. 
Bonefro  191. 
Bonifato,  Monte  277. 
Bonorva  373. 
Borgo  177. 
Borore  372. 
Bosa  365.  373. 
Bosco  d'Acovia  10. 

—  di  Calatafimi  279. 

—  de'  Coronia  310. 

—  dell'  Umbra  193. 
Boscoreale  10. 
Boscotrecase  118. 
Botricello  215. 
Botte,  La  14. 
Boukournin,  Mts.  380.387. 
Bou-Said  380. 

Bova  217. 
Bovalino  217. 
Bove,  Monte  182. 


398 


INDEX. 


Bove,  Valle  del  348. 
Bovianum  Undecimano- 

rum  186. 
Bovino  206. 
Bradano,  the  210. 
Brancaccio  274. 
Brancaleone  217. 
Brentesion  201. 
Brindisi  200. 

Montagna  209. 

Brolo,  Fiumara  311. 
Bronte  334. 
Brucato  290. 
Brucoli  349. 

Bruncu  Spina,  Punta  376. 
Brundisium  201. 
Brusciano  174. 
Buccino  203. 
Buffaloria  214. 
Buggeru365. 
Bugnara  184. 
Buonalbergo  206. 
Buonfornello  308. 
Buonpietro  291. 
Buraco,  Monte  289. 
Burgio  289. 
Busambra  289. 
Buscemi  307. 
Busento,  river  219. 
Bussi  186. 
Butera  303. 
Buttigliara  357. 

Cabras  372. 
Caccamo  291. 
Gacyparis  306. 
Cagliari  368. 
— ,  Stagno  di  368. 
Caianello  6.  186. 
Caiazzo  10. 
Caieta  17. 
Cairo,  Monte  6. 
Calabria  200.  176. 
Calabrian  Mts.  223. 
Calacte  310. 
Calascibetta  300. 
Calatabiano  331. 
Calatafimi  277. 
Calava,  prom.  311.  227. 
Calciano  209. 
Caldare  292.  299. 
Gales  7. 
CaUipolis  203. 
S.  Calogero,  Monte,  near 

Sciacca  288. 
— ,  Lipari  324. 
— ,  Termini  291. 
Calore,  river  204. 
Caltabelotta  289. 
— ,  river  289. 
(altagirone  302. 
Caltanissetta  227.  299. 
Caltavuturo  291. 


Calvello,  Monte  11. 
Calvi  7. 

Calvo,  Monte  177.  193. 
Camaldoli  near  Naples  SO. 

—  dell'  Avvocata  168. 

—  di  Meta  152. 
della  Torre  111. 

Camaldolilli  90. 
Camarana,  river  304. 
Camarda  180. 
Camarina  234.  304. 
Camerelle,  the  155. 
Camastra,  river  209. 
Cammarata  292.  208. 
Campana  214. 
Campanaro,  Monte  298. 
Campanella,  Punta  di  150 

223. 
Campania  7. 
Campeda,  la  373. 
Campi  Geloi  304. 

—  Laestrigonii  348. 

—  Palentini  182. 
Campidano  370.  371. 
Campo  Bianco  324. 

—  di  Giove  185. 
Pericoli  180. 

Campobasso  191. 
Campobello  283.  299. 
Campofeliee  308. 
Campofiorito  289. 
Campofranco  292. 
Campolattaro  192. 
Campolieto  191. 
Caiupomaggiore  209. 
Campomarino  192. 
Campomela  374. 
Camposano  174. 
Cancello  10. 
Candela  194. 
Canicatti  299. 
Caniga  374. 
Cannae  196. 
Cannita  276. 
Cannitello  222. 
Cannizzaro  332. 
Cannole  203. 
Canosa  196. 
Cantone,  Fiumara  312. 
Canusium  196. 
Canzano  190. 
Capaccio  Nuovo  166. 

—  Vecchio  166. 
Capaci  277. 
Capistrello  187. 
Capitanata,  the  176.  192 
Capo,  Lo  (Capri)  156.223 
Capo  Bianco  290. 

di  Conca  173. 
di  Gallo  224. 

—  Figari  373. 

—  Nao  215. 

—  d'Orlando   146.  311. 


Capo  d'Orso  168, 

—  Soprano  304. 
di  Sorrento  149. 
Sottile  173. 

—  Tumolo  168. 
Capodimonte,   near    Na- 
ples 81. 

-,  near  Sorrento  149. 
Caposele,  Villa  16. 
Cappelle  182. 
Cappelliere  289. 
Capreae  154. 
Caprera  365. 
Capri  152.  155. 
Caprile  157. 
Capua  7. 
Capurso  199. 
Caralis  368. 
Carbonara,  Capo  368. 
Carceri  di  Nerone  100. 
Cardellieri,  Monte  289. 
Cardito,  Monte  190. 
Cariati  214. 
Carini  277. 
Carinola  18. 
Carlentini  349. 
Carloforte  371. 
Caronia  310. 
Carotto  147.  152. 
Carovigno  200. 
Carpanzano  220. 
Carpineto  2. 
Carrito  Ortona  184. 
Carrubia  331. 
Carseoli  Ibl. 
Carsoli  181. 
Oartellemi  335. 
Carthage  385.  381. 
Carthagine,    Cape    386. 

380. 
Casa  del  Bosco  346. 

—  Inglese  346. 
Casacalenda  191. 
Casaferro  174. 
Casalbordino  191. 
Casalbuono  208. 
Casalduni  204. 
Casalnuovo   10.  174. 
Casamicciola  106. 
Cascano  18. 
Cascia  177. 
Caserta  9.  204. 

—  Vecchia  10. 
Casilinum  7. 
Casino  Chiriaco  221. 
Casinum  4. 
Casmenae  234.  306. 
Casoria  203. 
Cassano  200.  218. 
Cassaro  292.  307. 
Cassibile  306. 

— ,  river  306. 
Cassino  3. 


INDEX. 


399 


Caasino,  Monte  5. 
Castagna,  Capo  324. 
Castanea  321. 
Castel  S.  Angelo  177. 

—  Fiorentino  194. 

—  S.  Giorgio   175. 

—  di  Lama  189. 

—  di  Sangro  185. 

—  Termini  292. 

—  di  Tusa  310. 
Casteldaccia  290. 
Castella,  Capo  216. 
Castellalto  190. 
Castellammare  Adriatico 

190.  187. 

—  del  Golfo  (Sicily)  277. 

—  di   Stabia    (near   Sor- 
rento) 144. 

Castellaneta  200. 
Castello  diBarbarossal57. 

—  di  Cisterno  174. 

—  di  Mare  Dolce  274. 

—  del  Monte  197. 

—  in  Parco  161. 

—  di  Schiso  331. 
Castelluccio  208. 
Castelvetere  216. 
Castelvetrano  279. 
Castiglione  333. 
— ,  Monte  155. 
Castro  203. 
Castrocucco  16!).  207. 
Castrofilippo  299. 
Castrogiovanni  227.  299. 
Castronovo  292. 
Castroreale  312. 
Castrovillari  208.  219. 
Castrum  Miwervae  203. 

—  Novum  190. 
S.  Cataldo  299. 
Catalfano,  Monte  224. 275. 
Catana  233. 

Catania  336. 

— ,  Piano  di  348. 

Catanzaro  215. 

Catena  del  Marghine  373. 

Catenanuova  301. 

S.  Caterina,  near  Eeggic 

223. 
— ,  Sicily  299. 
— ,  near  Squillace  216. 
Catona  223. 
S.  Cattaldo,    Castello   di 

202. 
Caudine  Forks  10.  204 
Caudium  10. 
Caulonia  216. 
Cava,  dei  Tirreni  161. 
Cavaliere  lbl. 
Cavallino  202. 
Cavone,  river  213. 
Ceccano  2. 
Cecchina  11. 


Cedrinus  376. 
Cefala-Diana  289. 
Cefalone,  Pizzo  180. 
Cefalu  309. 
Celano  184. 
Cellole  Fasani  18. 
Cento  Camerelle  100. 
Centorbi  301. 
Centuripe  233.  301. 
Cephaloedium  309. 
Ceprano  3. 
Gercatae  188. 
Cerchio  184. 
Cerda  291. 
Cerignola  195. 
Cerreto  204. 

Cerrila,  Bosco  della  343. 
Certosa,  the  (Capri)  155. 

—  (nearMileto)  221. 

—  di  S.  Lorenzo  207. 
Cervaro  6.  194.  207. 
— ,  river  206. 
Cervico  219. 
Cesarano  151. 
Cetara  168. 

Cetraro  223. 
Charybdis  222.  322. 
Chiajolella  105. 
Chianche  175. 
Chiatona  210. 
Chiazza  302. 
Chienti,  river  189. 
Chieti  186. 
Chieuti  192. 
Chilivani  373. 
Chirica,  Monte  324. 
Chiunzo,  Monte  160. 
Chiusa-Sclatani  289. 
Choerades  211. 
Chrysas  301. 
Ciampino  1. 
Cicala  174. 
Cicci,  Monte  321. 
Cicciano  174. 
Cicero's  Tomb  16. 

Villa  16. 
Ciclopi,  Scogli  dei  332. 
Cimiti,  Capo  delle  216. 
Cimitile  174. 
Cineto  181. 
Cinisi  277. 
Cinquemiglia,    Piano    di 

195. 
Cintaria,  la  286. 
Ciocca  374. 
Circeii  14. 
Circeo  or  Circello,  Monte 

or  Promontorio  14.  11. 
Ciro  214. 

S.  Ciro,  Grotta  di  274. 
Cisterna  11. 
Cisternino  200. 
Citta  Santangelo  190. 


Citta.  Vecchia  379. 
Cittaducale  177. 
Cittanova  217. 
Civita  d'Antino  187. 
■ —  Lavinia  11. 
Civitanova  189. 
Civitella  Roveto  187. 
Clanius  10. 
S.  Clemente  di  Casauria 

186. 
Cocullo  184. 
Cocuzzo,  Monte  220.  224. 
Codola  161.  175. 
CogMnas  365. 
Collarmele  184. 
Colles  Leucogaei  95. 
Collesano  308. 
Colli  182.  189. 
Colonne,  Capo  delle  215. 
Comino  379.  377. 
Comiso  305. 
Comitini  292.  299. 
Conca,  Capo  di  173. 

,  Gorge  of  149. 
Conca  d'Oro,  la  249. 
Concazze,  Serra  delle  348. 
Concilio,  Monte  345. 
Conero,  Mte.  176. 
S.  Cono  302. 
Consenlia  219. 
Consiliana  207. 
Contessa  289. 
Conti   delle  Fontanelle 

157. 

—  di  Geremenna  152. 
Contigliano  177. 
Contursi  207. 
Conversano  200. 
Copiae  214. 
Coppola,  Monte  145. 
Cora  11. 

Corace,  river  220. 

Coraci  220. 

Corato  197. 

Corcyra  388. 

Corfinium  186. 

Corfu  387. 

Cori  11. 

Corigliano  Calabro  214. 

—  d'Otranto  203. 
Corleone  289. 
Corno,  Monte  180. 
Cornus  372. 
Coroglio,  Capo  88. 
Corpo  di  Cava  162. 
Correboi,  Col  di  376. 
Correo  321. 
Corsari  289. 

Cosa  219. 

Coscile,  river  208.  219. 

Cosenza  219. 

S.  S.  Corma  18. 

Cossyra  380. 


400 


INDEX. 


S.  Costanzo,  Mte.  150. 
Cotrone  215. 
Crapolla  150. 
Crathis  219. 
Crati,  river  214.  219. 
Cretaro,  Monte  146. 
Crimiti,  Monte  357. 
S.  Croce  304. 
— ,  Capo  350. 

—  del  Sannio  192. 

—  (Mt.  Vesuvius)  118. 
Crocelle  di  Agrifoglio, 

Le  220. 
Cropani  215. 
Croton  215. 
Crucoli  214. 
Cuba,  La  270. 
Cuccio,  Monte  224. 
Culatrello  307. 
Culmine  371. 
Cumae  102.  30. 
Cunano,  Monte  335. 
Cupersanum  200. 
Cupra  Marittima  189. 
Culiliae,  Lacus  177. 
Curro,  Monte  184. 
Cutro  216. 
Cutto,  Monte  335. 
Cyane  Brook,  364. 
Cyclopean  Islands  332. 
Cyme  102. 

Damecuta  157. 

Damiano  Castelforte   18. 

Damusi  336. 

S.  Deca,  Mte  390. 

Decima,  Fiumara  330. 

Decimomannu  371. 

Delia  299. 

— ,  river  283. 

S.   Demetrio   ne'   Vestini 

181. 
Deserto  151. 
Desulo  376. 
Diamante  223. 
Dicaearchia  94. 
Dicaeopolis  278. 
Didyme  325. 
Dittaino,  river  301. 
Djamur  380. 
Djebel-Khaoui  386. 
Djebel-Resas,Mts3S0.387. 
S.  Domenico  Soriano  221. 
Donna  Beatrice  289. 
Donori  375. 
Drepana  285. 
Duchessa,  La  365. 
Due  Fratelli  168. 
Dugenta  204. 
Durillo,  river  304. 

Eboli  207. 

St.  Efisio,  Church  371. 


Egesta  278. 

Egnatia  200. 

Eknomos  303. 

Eleutherus  276. 

S.  Elia  191.  276. 

— ,  Capo  368.  370. 

— ,  Monte  222. 

Elmas  371. 

S.  Elpidio  189. 

Enguium  291. 

Enna  227.  300. 

Ennas  373. 

Entella  233.  289. 

Epano  390. 

Epitaffio,  Punta  dell'  98. 

Epomeo,  Monte  108.105. 

Epomeus  105. 

Epopevs  105. 

Erbe  Bianche  336. 

Erbessus  299. 

Eremitaggio    di  Trapani 

321. 
Ericusa  325. 
Erikousi  387. 
Eryx  227.  233.  286. 
Etna,  see  ^Etna. 
S.  Eufemia  220. 
— ,  Golfo  di  224. 
Euonymus  325. 

'Eabrateria  nova  3. 
—  veins  2. 
Fagnano  181. 
Faito,  Monte  145. 
Falconara  303. 

,  river  306. 
Falconaria  285. 
Falcone  312. 
Falconiera,  Monte  276. 
Falernus,  Ager  18. 
Falsomiele  273. 
Fano  Adriano  190. 
Faraglioni  155.  332. 
Farina,  Cape  380. 
Faro  322. 
Fasano  200. 
Favara  303. 
— ,  La  274. 
Favarotta  299.  302. 
Favazzina  222. 
Favignana  285. 
Favorita  ,    la ,    Portici 

112. 
— ,  near  Palermo  269. 
S.  Felice  10. 
d.  Ferdinando  326. 
Ferentino  2. 
Ferentinum  2. 
Ferentum  195. 
Ferla  307. 
Fermo  189. 
Ferrandina  209. 
Ferru,  Monte  372. 


Fibrenus,  river  187. 

Ficarazzelli  275. 

Fiearazzi  275. 

Ficuzza  289. 

Figlino  160. 

Filicuri  325. 

S.  Filippo  d'Argiro  301. 

Finale  310. 

Finisterra ,     promontory 

203. 
Firmum  Picenum  189. 
Fiumara,  river  195. 
Fiume  Caldo  277. 

—  Freddo  224.   277.   331. 

—  Grande  226.  291.  308. 

—  Salso  226.  299.  303. 

—  Torto  291.  308. 
S.  Flavia  275.  290. 
S.  Flaviano  190. 
Floridia  307. 
Flumendosa  365. 
Foggia  192. 
Fondi  15. 

Fonni  376. 

Pons  Bandusiae  195. 

Fontana  108.  213. 

—  Congiada  376. 

—  Grande  195. 

—  Vecchia  330/331. 
Fontanamela  376. 
Fontanarosa  193. 
Fontane  188. 
Fontecchio  181. 
Pontes  Leucogaei  95. 
Fordungianus  372. 
Forenza  195. 
Forio  107. 

Forli  185. 
Formia  16. 
Formiae  16. 
Fornacelle  152. 
Forno,  II  101. 
Fortore,  river  192. 
Forum  Popilii  207. 

—  Trajani  372. 

—  Vulcani  95. 
Forza  326. 
Fossacesia  191. 
Fossanuova  13. 
Fragneto  192. 
Francavilla  191.  213.  221. 
S.  Franco,  Monte  190. 
Francolisi  18. 

Frasso  204.  13. 
S.  Fratello  310. 
— ,  Fiumara  310. 
Frattamaggiore-Gruino 

203. 
Fratte  165. 
Frattocchie  11. 
Fregellae  3. 
Frento  192. 
Frosinone  2. 


INDEX. 


401 


Frumento,  Monte  344. 
Frusino  2. 

Fucino,  Lago  di  182. 
Fundi  15. 
Fuorigrotta  86.  92. 
Fwculae  Caudinae  10. 

2U4. 
Furiano,  Fiumara  di  310. 
Furore  173. 
Fusaro,  Lago  del  102. 
Fuscaldo  223. 

Gaeta  17. 

Gaggera,  river  278. 
Gagliano  301. 
Galati  326. 
Galatina  202. 
Galatone  202. 
Galdo  207. 
Galli,  1  173. 
Gallico  223. 
Gallinella,  river  277. 
Gallipoli  202.  203. 
Gallo,  Capo  di  224. 
Gangi  291. 
Garaguso  209. 
Gargano,  Monte  176.  192. 
Garigliano,  river  3.  18. 
Garofalo,  the  322. 
Garouna  390. 
Gaulos  379. 
S.  Gavino  371. 
Gavoi  376. 
Gela  234.  301. 
Gela,  river  304. 
Gemellaro,  Monte  345. 
Gemini,  Monte  292. 
Generosa,  La  291. 
Gennargentu,  Mt.   365. 

376. 
S.    Gennaro,    monastery 

95. 
Gerace  216. 
Gerbini  302. 
S.  Germano  4. 
— ,  Stufe  di  92. 
Gesico  375. 
Gesso  313. 
S.  Giacomo  214. 
Giampilieri  326. 
Giara,  La  375. 
Giardinetto  206. 
Giardini  326. 
Giarre  331. 
Giarretta,  river  349. 
Giave  373. 
Gibellina  279. 
Gibilmanna  309. 
Gibilrossa  274. 
Giganti,  Grotta  de',  274. 
Ginosa  210. 
Gioia  Tauro  221. 
—  del  Colle  200. 


Baedekek.    Italy  III. 


Gioiosa  Fonica  216.  311. 
S.  Giorgio,  near  Avellmo 

175. 
— ,  in  Sardinia  375. 
— ,  in  Sicily  313. 
S.  Giovanni  in  Carico  3. 

—  in  Fiori  220. 

—  e  Paolo  diCasamari  188. 

—  de  Sinis  372. 

—  a  Teduccio  108.  112. 

—  (Sardinia)  375. 
Giovenco  184. 
Giovinazzo  198. 
Girgenti  293. 

Acropolis  294. 
Biblioteca  Luccbesiana 

298. 
Catacombs  29S. 
Cathedral  297. 
Cloacae  of  Pheeax  297. 
Fonte  dei  Greci  294. 
Gates  293. 
S.  Giorgio  298. 
S.  Gregorio  delle  Eape 

295. 
Grotta  de'  Frangapani 

295. 
Hippodrome  297. 
S.  Maria  dei  Greci  297. 
Museum  298. 
S.  Nicola  295. 
Oratory  of  Phalaris 

295. 
Panitteri  Garden  295. 
Passeggiata  298. 
Piscina  297. 
Porta  Aurea  293. 

—  del  Ponte  294. 
Purgatorio,  Chiesa  del 

298. 
Rock  of  Athene  293 
Rupe  Atenea  298. 
Temple  of  iKsculapius 

296. 

—  Castor  and  Pollux 
296. 

—  Ceres  and  Proserpine 
294. 

—  Concord  295. 

—  Hercules  295. 

—  Juno  Lacinia  295. 

—  Jupiter  Polieus  293. 

—  Vulcan  297. 

—  Zeus  296. 
Tomb  of  Theron  296. 
S.  Vito  293. 

Giuliana  289. 

Giulianello  11 

S.  Giuliano   del  Sannio 

192. 
— ,  Monte  286.  227. 
Giulianova  190. 
Giurdignano  203. 

11th  Edition. 


S.  Giuseppe  10. 

Gizio,  river  181. 

Glypho  391. 

Gnathia  200. 

Gobbo,  Rio  376. 

Godrano  289. 

Goletta  380. 

Golfo  degli  Aranci  373. 

Gonnesa  371. 

Gorgo  di  Cotone  280. 

Goriano  184. 

Govino  390. 

Gozzo  379.  377. 

Gradelle,  Punta  147. 

Gragnano  143. 

Grammichele  302. 

Gran  Sasso   d'ltalia   180. 

196. 
Grassano  209. 
Gratteri  309. 
Gravina  345. 
Grazia  Vecchia  273. 
Greccio  2S7. 
Greci  206. 
S.  Gregorio  217. 
Griffone,  Monte  224.  274. 
Grotta,  La  321. 
Grotta  d'Averno  98. 
Azzurra  158. 
Bianca  159. 

—  del  Bove  345. 

—  del  Bove  Marino  159. 
del  Cane  92. 
di  Collepardo  2. 

—  Dragonara  101. 

—  della  Fata  Donnavilla 
312. 

—  del  Fracasso  335. 

—  dei  Giganti  274. 

—  di  Mitromania  157. 

—  della  Pace  103. 

—  della  Sibilla  98.  103. 
234. 

—  delle  Stalattite  159. 

—  Verde  159. 
GrottagHo  213. 
Grottanmiare  189. 
Grotte,  Le  299. 
Grottole  209. 
Grumentum  208. 
Grumo  200. 
Guardia  223. 

,  Monte  di  323. 
Guglionesi  191. 
Gullo  Valley  313. 
Gurnalunga ,    river    349. 
Gurrita  334.  228. 
S.  Gusmano,  river  350. 


Kadranum  335. 
Halaesa  310. 
Halicyae  279. 
Halycus  289. 

26 


402 


INDEX. 


Hammani  Lif  387. 
Hatria  190. 
Heirde  268. 
Belorus  306. 
Hemichara  291. 
Bephaestiades  323. 
Heraclea  213. 

—  Minoa  290. 
Ueracleia  109. 
Herculaneum  109. 
Berdonia  194. 
Hermitage  (Mt.  Vesuvius) 

117. 
Bicesia  325. 
.ffieTO  321. 
Himella  182. 
Eimera  308.  234. 

—  Meridionalis  226.  291 
299.  303. 

—  Septentrionalis226. 291 
308. 

Bipparis  304. 
Bipponion  221. 
Bistonium  191. 
ZfyWa  Beraea  233.  305. 

—  Minor  335. 
Byccara  277. 
Bydruntum  203. 
flyAw  203. 
Hylleean  Harbour  390. 


Iglesias  371. 
S.  llario  195. 
Imachara  291. 
Imele,  river  182. 
Imera  299. 
Inarime  105. 
[nice,  Monte  279. 
Insula  Arpinat  187. 
Insulae  Diomedeae  191. 
Interamna  190. 
[nterniesole,  Pizzo  d'  180, 
Interocrea  177. 
Interpromium  186. 
[rno  165. 
trpino  175. 
[schia  105.  106. 
[schitella  193. 
[scla  105. 
:sclero,  the  204. 
isernia  185. 
Isili  375. 
^sola  Capo-Eizzuto  215. 

-  dAci  332. 

-  delle  Femine  277. 

-  del  Liri  188. 

-  Ferdinandea  289. 

-  Grande  284. 

-  Lunga  284. 

-  S.  Paola  187. 

-  Salina  325. 
isoletta  3. 


Ispica,  Val  d'  305. 
Itri  15. 

Julian  Aqueduct  100. 

Kalikiopoulo,  Lake  390, 
Kamart  386. 
Kardaki  390. 
Karthada  385. 
Kasr-Sad  276. 
Kheredine  381. 
Kkram  381. 
Konto  Vouni  387. 
Kressida  390. 
Kyme  30. 

Labieo  1. 
Lacco,  Monte  107. 
Lacinian  promontory215. 
Laconi  375.  376. 
Lactarii  Monies  146. 
Lacus  Acherusius  102. 

—  Arnyclanus  15. 

—  Avernus  98. 

—  Culiliae  177. 

—  Fucinus  182. 

—  Fundanus  15. 

—  Lucrinus  97. 

—  Niger  208. 

—  Palicorum  302. 
Laestrygonii,  Gampi  348. 
Lagonegro  203. 
Lama,  Castel  di  189. 
Lamato,  river  220. 
Lanciano  191. 
Landro,  Fiumara  312. 
Lanuvium  11. 
Lao,  river  208. 
Laos  209. 
Larino  191. 
Larinum  191. 
Lascari  309. 
Latiano  213. 
Lattarico  219. 
Lattaro,  Mte.  146. 
Lauria  208. 
Lauro,  Mte.  227. 
Lautulae  15. 
Lavello  194. 
Lavoro,  Terra  di  7.  15. 
Lazzaro  217. 
S.  Lazzaro,  Fort  146.  171 
Leano,  Monte  13. 
Lecce  202. 
Lentini  349. 
— ,  Lago  di  349. 
S.  Leonardo  193.  349. 
— ,  river  290. 
Leone  302.  349. 
Leonessa  177. 
Leonforte  301. 
Leontini  233.    349. 
Lepre,  Monte  o3o. 


Lercara  227.  292. 

Lesina,  Lago  di  192. 

Lete  Vivo,  brook  189. 

Letojanni  326. 

Lettere  143. 

Leuca  203. 

Leuca,  Promontory  203. 

S.  Leucio,  Casino  Eeale 
di  10. 

Levanzo  285. 

Liberatore,  Monte  162. 

Licata  228.  303. 

Licatia  345. 

Licosa,  Promont.  della 
223. 

Lilibeo,  Capo  284. 

Lilybaeum  284. 

Linguaglossa  333. 

— ,  Bosco  di  343. 

Liparaeae  323. 

Lipari  323. 

—  Islands  226.  322. 

Liris,  river  3.  18.  182. 

Lisca  Bianca  325. 

Locroi  Epizephyrioi  216. 
217. 

Lone  171. 

Longano  312. 

Lontrano,  ravine  207. 

S.     Lorenzo    (near    Pa- 
lermo) 276. 
,  Certosa  207. 
Maggiore  204. 

Loreto  175.  189. 

S.  Louis  381. 

Lucania  176.  208. 

Luce  214. 

Lucera  193. 

Luceria  193. 

S.  Lucia  212.  313. 

S.  Lucido  224. 

Luco  183. 

Lucrino  97. 

Lucrinus,  Lacus  97. 

Lucus  Angitiae  183. 

Lumidoro  350. 

Luparo,  Monte  184. 

Lupia  202. 

Lusciano,  Villa  97. 

Lysimelia  364. 

Wacara  290. 
Maccalubi  292. 
Macchia  186. 

.  La  344. 
Macomer  373. 
Macopsisa  373. 
Maddalena  365. 
Maddaloni  10.  204. 
Madonia  Mts.  308. 
Madonna  dell'Annunziata 

—  deir  Autu  277. 


INDEX. 


403 


Madonna  del  Capo  215. 

—  del  Lauro  147. 

—  della  Rocca  331. 

—  di  Saccargia  374. 
Maenza  12. 
Magliano  182. 
Maglie  203. 
Magna  Graecia  176. 
Magnisi  350. 
Maida  221. 

Maiella,   Mt.  176.   185. 

191. 
Maiori  168. 
Maiorisi  18. 
Malaspina,  Monte  325. 
Maletto  334. 
Maleventum  205. 
Malka,  la  381.  385. 
Malta  377. 
Malvagna  333. 
Mamoiada  376. 
Mandas  375. 
Mandela  181. 
Manfredonia  193. 
Mangano  331. 
Maniacium  334. 
Mannu,  river  375. 
Manoppello  186. 
Manouba,  the  385. 
Marano  189. 
Marausa  285. 
Marcianise  204. 
S.  Marco  219. 

—  di  Alunzio  310. 
— ,  Cape  372. 
Marechiaro  88. 
Marecoecola ,     Telegrafo 

di  152. 
Mare  Dolce,  Castello  di 
274. 

—  Grande  210. 

—  Morto  101.  102. 

—  Piccolo  210.  212. 

—  Pontis  372. 
Marescia  199. 

S.  Margarita  105. 

S.  Margherita  289. 

S.  Maria  dei  Bisognosi 

181. 
— ,  near  Catanzaro  215. 
— ,    near  Massalubrense 

150. 

—  di  Buonaria  370. 

—  di  Capua  Vetere  8. 

—  a  Castello  152. 

—  del  Castello  118. 

—  di  Gesii  273. 

—  di  Leuca  203. 

—  di  Licodia  335. 

—  di  Luco  184. 

—  Maggiore  161. 

—  a  Monte  Vergine  289 

—  della  Neve  151. 


S.  Maria  a  Pozzano  145. 

—  del  Rosario  160. 

—  della  Scala  321. 

—  di  Siponto  193. 

—  del   Soccorso  156. 

—  della  Valle  321. 

—  della  Vittoria  182. 
— ,  island  284. 
Marianopoli  298. 

S.  Marie  182. 
Mariglianella  174. 
Marigliano  10.  174. 
Marina  del  Cantone  150. 

—  di  Cazzano  147. 

—  di  Equa  146. 

—  di  Puolo  149. 
Marinella  373. 
Marino  189. 
Maritimo  226. 
Marmore  177. 
Marro,  river  222. 
Marrubiu  372. 
Marruvium  184. 
Marsa,  La  386. 
Marsala  283. 
Marsico  Nuovo  208. 
S.  Martino   (near   Pa- 
lermo) 272. 

—  in  Pensilis  191. 
Mascali  331. 
Mascalucia  345. 
Massa  (Vesuvius)  115. 

—  d'Albe  182. 
Massafra  200. 
Massalubrense  150. 
Massico,  Monte  18. 
Massolivieri,  promont. 

351. 
Mater  Domini  161. 
Matese  10. 
Matrice  191. 
Matrinus  190. 
Mazara  283. 
Mazaras,  river  283. 
Mazzara  283.  312. 
Meana  376. 

Megara  Hyblaea  350.  233 
Megarean  Bay  350. 
Megaris  34. 
Melfl  194. 
— ,  Pizzuto  di  195. 
Meligunis  323. 
Melilli  350. 
Melite  377. 
Melito  217. 
Menae  233.  302. 
Menessale,  river  333. 
Menfrici  or  Menu  288. 
Mercante,  Passo  del  217. 
Mereato  S.  Severino  175. 
Mercogliano  175. 
Mesagne  213. 
Mesima,  river  224. 


Messana  315. 
Messina  313. 

S.  Agostino  318. 

S.  Anna  318. 

S.  Annunziata  317. 

C'ampo  Santo  320. 

Cappuccini,  Monte  de 
321. 

Cathedral  316. 

Cattolica,  la  317. 

Cemeterv,  Prot.  320. 

Citadel  320. 

Corso  Cavour  319. 

—  Vitt.  Emanuele  320. 
SS.  Cosma  &  Damiano 

318. 
Dogana  320. 
Exchange  320. 
Fort  Castellaccio  320. 

—  Gonzago  320. 
Fountain  of  Montorsoli 

317. 
S.    Francesco    d'Assisi 

319. 
— ,  Oratorio  di  319. 
S.  Gioacchino  319. 
S.  Giovanni   Decollate 

319. 
S.  Gregorio  318. 
Harbour  320. 
Indirizzo  (church)  317. 
Lazzaretto  320. 
Library  317. 
Lighthouse  320. 
S.  Lucia  318. 
S.  Maddalena  317. 
S.    Maria   Alemanna 

317. 

—  di  Mortalto  318. 

—  della  Scala  319. 
Matagrifone  319. 
Matrice  316. 
Natural    History    Col- 
lection 317. 

S.  Niccolo  319. 
Ospedale  Civico  318. 
Pace,  Chiesa  della  319. 
Palazzo  Brunaccini319. 

—  Grano  319. 

—  Municipale  319. 
Post  Office  320. 
Rocca  Guelfonia  319. 
Statue  of  Don  John  of 

Austria  319. 

Strada  Mil  Hare  321. 

Teatro  Vitt.  Eman.  314. 

University  317. 

Via  Garibaldi  319. 

Villa  Guelfonia  318. 
Messina,  the  Strait  of  224. 

315. 
Meta  147. 
Metaponto  209. 

26* 


404 


INDEX. 


Metapontum  209. 
Metaurum  221. 
Metaurus  222. 
Mezzagno  274. 
Mezzocampo  335. 
Mezzojnso  289. 
3.  Michele,  Mte.  155. 
— ,  nearManfredonia  193. 
— ,  near  MeM  195. 
Mignano  6. 
Milazzo  228.  312. 
Mileto  221. 
Miletto,  Monte  10. 
Mili  326. 
Milis  372. 
Miliscola  102. 
Militello  302. 
Mimiani  298. 
Mimnermum  272. 
Minardo,  Monte  335. 
Mineo  233.  302. 
Minervino,  Murgie  di  197. 
Miniscola  Spiaggia  di  102. 
Minoa  290. 
Minopolis  200. 
Minori   169. 
Minturna  18. 
Minturnae  18. 
Mirto-Oosia  214. 
Miseno  101. 
— ,  Capo  101. 
Misenttm  101. 
Misilmeri  289. 
Misterbianco  336. 
Mistretta  310. 
Mitromania,Grotta  di  157. 
Modica  305. 
Modione,  river  280. 
Modugno  197.  199. 
Mojano  204. 
Mojo  333. 
Mola  di  Bari  200. 
—  di  Gaeta  16. 
— ,  near  Taormina  330, 
Molentargiu ,    Stagno    di 

368. 
Moles  Puteolanae  94. 
Molfetta  197. 
Molina  181. 
— ,  Punta  106. 
Molini,  Valle  de'  171. 
Monacilione  191. 
Monacone,  II  155. 
Monalus  310. 
Monasterace  216. 
Mondello  270. 
Mondragone  18. 
Monfina,  Rocca  6. 
Monforte  192.  313. 
Mongibello  343. 
Mongiuffi  326. 
Mongrassano  219. 
Monopoli  200. 


Monreale  (Sicily)  271. 

—  (Sardinia)  372. 
Monserrato  375. 
Monfagano  191. 
Montagnuola,  the  346. 
Montaguto  206. 
Montalbano  213. 
Montallegro  290. 
Montalto  218.  219.  224. 
Montauro  216. 
Monte  Cairo  6. 

—  Cassino  5. 
Compatri  1. 
Fortino  1. 
Giordano  214. 

—  S.  Giuliano  286.  227. 

—  Grosse  307. 

—  Lattaro  146. 

—  Nuovo  97.  114. 

—  Santangelo  193. 

—  Vergine  175. 
Montecalvo  206. 
Montecardillo  336. 
Montecorvino  165. 
Monteiasi  213. 
Monteleone  221. 
Montemaggiore  291. 
Montemesola  213. 
Montenarba  365. 
Montenero  191. 
Montepagano  190. 
Montepertuso  146. 
Monleponi  365.  371. 
Monteprandone  189. 
Montesampolo  189. 
Montesano  208. 
Montesarchio  10. 
Montesardo  203. 
Montesilvano  190. 
Monies  Lactarii  146. 

—  Nephmii  226. 

—  Pelorides  226. 
Montevecchio  365. 
Monti  373. 

—  Rossi  346.  336. 
Monticelli  15. 
Montorio  190. 
Montoro  175. 
Morano  208. 
Morcone  192. 
Mores  373. 
Morgantium  233. 
Morino  187. 
Mormanno  208. 
Morolo  2. 
Moropano  108. 
Moscia,  Monte  216. 
Motciano  190. 
Motta  192. 

Motta   S.    Anastasia  302 

336. 
Mottola  200. 
Motye  234.    284. 


Muglia  302. 
Mulinazzo  289. 
Muranum  208. 
Murata,  La  209. 
Murgie  di  Minervino  197. 
Muro  203. 

Lucano  208. 
Musei  371. 
Mussumeli  292. 
Mutignano  190. 
Mylae  312. 

Nao,  Capo  215. 
Naples  19. 

Accademia  Fontaniana 
47. 

Acqua  di  Serino  81. 

Albergo  dei  Poveri  41. 

S.  Angelo  a  Nilo  47. 

S.  Anna  dei  Lombardi 
43. 

SS.  Annunziata  48. 

Aquarium  33. 

Archetiello,  r  89. 

Archives  48. 

Arcivescovado  53. 

Arrival  19. 

Arsenal  38. 

Banca  Kazionale  41. 

Bankers  23. 

S.  Barbara  38. 

Baths  24. 

Bazaar  41. 

Beer  21. 

Boarding  Houses  20. 

Boats  23. 

Bool;  sellers  25. 

Botanic  Garden  41. 

Cable  Tramways  23.  82. 

Cafes  21. 

Camaldoli  90. 

Campi  Santi  49. 

Capo  Coroglio  88. 

—  di  Posdlipo  88. 
Capodimonte  81. 
Cappella  del  Sole  50. 

—  del  Tesoro  51. 

S.  Carlo,  Theatre  36. 
Carnival  28. 
Carriages  21. 
Casa  dei  Trovatelli  49. 
Castello  Capuano  49. 

—  del  Carmine  39- 

—  Nuovo  37. 

—  dell'  Ovo  34. 

—  Sant'  Elmo  83. 
Catacombs   80. 

S.  Caterina  a  Formello 

49. 
Cathedral  51. 
Cemeteries  49. 
Chemists  24. 
Chiaja,  the  32. 


INDEX. 


405 


Naples : 

S.  Chiara  44. 

Chiesa    del    Sannazaro 

87. 
Cigars  21. 

Colonna  de'  Martiri  40, 
Commandant's    Resid. 

35. 
Commissionnaires  30. 
Confectioners  21. 
Conservatorium    of 

Music  55. 
Consulates  24. 
Corso  Garibaldi  39.  49. 

—  Vittorio   Emanuele 
82. 

S.  Croce  al  Mercato  39. 
Cumse  Railway  91. 
Custom  House  38. 
Dazio  Consumo  89. 
Deputazione  di  Salute 

38. 
Dogana  38. 
S.  Domenico   Maggiore 

45. 
Duomo  51. 
English  Churches  24 
Exchange  37. 
Festivals,  national  and 

religious  28. 
S.  Filippo  Neri  53. 
Foundlings'  Home  49 
S.  Francesco    di  Paola 

35. 
Frisio,  Scoglio  di  87. 
Fuorigrotta  86. 
Galleria  Principe  di  Na- 

poli  41. 

—  Umberto  I  36. 
S.  Gennaro  80. 
Gesii  Nuovo  44. 

S.  Giacomo  dellaMarca 
42. 

—  degli  Spagnuoli  37. 
S.    Giovanni   a   Carbo- 

nara  50. 

—  Maggiore  47.' 

—  de'  Pappacoda  47. 
Goods  Agents  26. 
Grotta  Nuova  di  Posi- 

lipo  86. 
Grotto  of  Sejanus  88. 
Guides  30. 
Harbours  38. 
History  30. 
Hospitals  24.  85.  87. 
Hotels  19.  20. 
Immacolatella  38. 
Incoronata  42. 
S.  Januarius,  Chap.  51. 
Largo  della  Carita  40. 

S.  Domenico  45. 

S.  Ferdinando  36. 


Naples : 
Largo  delMercatello41 

—  8.  Trinita  Magg.  44. 

—  della  Vittoria  34. 
Liceo  Vitt.    Eman.  41. 
Lighthouse  38. 
S.  Lorenzo  54. 
Lotto  28. 
S.  Lucia  34. 
S.Maria  del  Carmine  39. 

—  Costantinopolitana 
82. 

—  del  Faro  88. 

—  la  Nuova  42. 

—  del  Parto  87. 

—  di  Piedigrotta  86. 

—  della  Pietade'Sangri 
47. 

S.  Martino  83. 
Martyrs'  Monument  40. 
Mergellina,  the  86. 
Miracoli,  de'  82. 
Miradois  81. 
Molo  Angioino  38. 

—  Piccolo  38. 
Money  Changers  23. 
Monte  Oliveto  43. 

—  di  Pieta  48. 

—  Santo  40.  82. 
Municipio  37. 
Museo  Capodimonte81 
Museo  Civico  Filangieri 

53. 
Museo  Nazionale  55. 
Aeschines,  Statue  of 

63. 
Alexander,  Battle  of 

65.  xliv. 
Amazon,  etc.,  of  the 

Pergam.  School  62. 

xxxiv. 
Animals  (Bronze)  67 
Apollo    playing   the 

Lyre  68.  xxxvi. 
Balbi,  Statues  of  the 

63. 

Bronzes,  Ancient  67. 
— ,  Small  78. 
Caligula,    Statue    of 

69. 
Chinese     Collections 

61. 
Christian    Inscrip- 
tions 61. 
Coins  74. 

Crystal,   Ancient  74. 
Cumsean    Collection 

70. 
Dancing  Faun  67. 
Dante,  Bust  of  70. 
Doryphorus  of  Poly- 

cletus  62.  xxxiv. 
Drunken  Faun  68. 


Naples : 

Museo  Nazionele: 
Egyptian  Antiquities 

61. 
Emperors,  Busts  and 

Statues  of  64. 
Engravings  70. 
Farnese    Bull    60. 
xxxiv. 

—  Flora  65. 

—  Hera    (Juno)    62. 
xxxii. 

—  Hercules  60. 
Food  Collection  71. 
Frescoes,  Ancient, 

from  Pompeii,  etc. 

56.  69.  xli. 
— ,  Copies  of  70. 
Gold  and  Silver 

Ornaments  79. 
Harmodius  and  Aris- 

togeiton62.  xxxiii. 
Heraclea,  Tables   of 

60. 
Homer  62. 
Inscriptions  59. 
Library  74. 
Marble  Sculptures  61 . 
Mercury  Reposing  68. 
Mosaics  58. 
Museo  Santangelo76. 
Narcissus  67. 
Orestes   and  Electra 

61.  xxxvi. 
Ornamental      Paint- 
ings 59. 
Orpheus    relief    66. 

xxxiii. 
Papyri ,    Library    of 

71. 
Pictures,  Modern  71. 

74. 
Pompeian  Frescoes 

56.  69.  xli. 
Pompeii,     Model    of 

78. 
Portico   degli   Impe- 

ratori  64. 
Portrait  Statues  and 

Busts  63. 
Precious  Relics  79. 
Psyche  of  Capua  63. 

xxxvi. 
Raccolta     Pornogra- 

fica  74. 
Reliefs  65.  66. 
Renaissance    Works 

70. 
Salpion,  Vase  of  66. 

xxxvi. 
Satyrs  62.  67.  68. 
Terracottas,  Ancient 

69. 


406 


INDEX. 


Naples : 
Museo  Nazlonale : 
Vases     Collection  of 

76. 
Venus  Callipygus  62. 
—    of   Capua   62. 

xxxvi. 
— ,  Statues  of  63. 
Weapons,  Collection 

of  69. 
Wounded    Gaul    62. 
xxxiv. 
Museum  of  S.  Martino 

84. 
Newspapers  28. 
Observatory  81. 
Omnibuses  23. 
Ospedale  dellaPace  51. 
S.  Paolo  Maggiore  54. 
Palazzo  d'Angri  41. 

—  Arcivescovile  53. 

—  Calabritto  40. 

—  di  Capodimonte  81. 

—  Casacalenda  45. 

—  Caviati  45. 

—  Corigliano  45. 

—  Cuomo  53. 

—  di  Donn'  Anna  87. 

—  Fondi  42. 

—  Gravina  43. 

—  Maddaloni  41. 

—  de'  Ministeri  37. 

—  Nunziante  40. 

—  Partanna  40. 

—  Reale  35. 

—  S.  Severo  45. 

—  Sirignano  37 

S.  Paolo  Maggiore  54. 
Parco  Margherita  84. 

—  Savoia  85. 
Pausilypon  85. 
Pensions  20. 
Photographs  26. 
Physicians  24. 
Piazza  Cavour  41. 

—  Dante  41. 

—  S.  Ferdinand  o  36. 

—  Garibaldi  39. 

—  S.  Gennaro  51. 

—  Gerolomini  53. 

—  de'  Martiri  40. 

—  del  Mercato  39. 

—  di  Montoliveto  43. 
— •  del  Municipio  37. 

—  del  Plebiscito  35. 

—  Salvator  Rosa  82. 

—  la  Torretta  85. 

—  Umberto  33.  85. 

S.  Pietro  a  Maiella  54. 

—  Martire  38. 
Pizzofalcone  34. 
Police  OfBce  19. 
Ponte  di  Chiaja  40. 


Nap  les 
Ponte  della  Sanita  80. 
Porta  Alba  41. 

—  Capuana  49. 

—  del  Carmine  39. 

—  Nolana  39. 
Porto  Grande  38. 

—  Mercantile  88. 

—  Militare  38. 

—  Piccolo  38. 
Posilipo  85.  86. 
Post  Office  24.  43. 
Prefettura  35. 
Railways  19. 
Reclusorio  41. 
Restaurants  20. 
S.  Restituta  52. 
Riviera  di  Chiaja  32 
Sannazaro,  Chiesa  del 

87. 
Sansevero,  Cappella  di 

47. 
Scuola  di  Virgilio  88. 
S.  Sebastiano  38. 
S.  Severino  e  Sosio  47. 
Shops  25. 

Slaughter  House  49. 
Specola,  la  81. 
Statue  of  Alvino  33. 

—  of  Bellini  55. 

—  of  Charles  III.  35. 

—  of  Colletta  33. 

—  of  Dante  41. 

—  of  Ferdinand  I.   35. 

—  of  Italia  36. 

—  of  Mercadante  42. 

—  of  Poerio  42. 

—  of  Thalberg  33. 

—  of  Vico  33. 
Steamboats  19. 
Strada  S.  Anna  de  Lorn 

bardi  41. 

—  S.  Biagio  de'  Librai 
48. 

—  Calabritto  40. 

—  Caraceiolo  32. 

—  Carbonara  50. 

—  S.  Carlo  36. 

—  S.  Caterina  40. 

—  di  Chiaja  40. 

—  del  Duomo  53. 

—  Foria  41.  . 

—  S.  Gennaro  dei  Po- 
veri  80. 

—  del  Gigante  34. 

—  S.  Giuseppe  42. 

—  di  S.  Lucia  34. 

—  Medina  42.  37. 

—  di  Mergellina  86. 

—  Montoliveto  43. 

—  Nuova  39. 

—  —    di  Capodimonte 
80. 


Naples : 

Strada  Nuova  di  Posi- 
lipo 87.85. 

—  Partenope  34. 

—  di  Piedigrotta85.  86. 

—  del  Piliero  38. 

—  di  Porto  38. 

—  di  Roma  40. 

—  Salv.  Rosa  82. 

—  Tasso  85. 

—  S.  Teresa  degli 
Scalzi  80. 

—  deiTribunali51.53. 

—  S.  Trinita  Magg.  44. 

—  deir  Universita  47. 
Street  Scenes  27. 
Telegraph  Office  24. 43. 
Theatres  26.  36.  38. 
Toledo  40. 
Tombola  28. 

Tondo  di  Capodimonte 

80. 
Tramways  22. 
Trattorie  21.  20. 
S.  Trinita  Maggiore  44. 
University  47. 
Via,  see  Strada. 
Vicaria,  la  49. 
Villa  Nazionale,  the  32. 

—  Angri  87. 

—  Avelli  81. 

—  Cottrau  87. 

—  Forquet  81. 

—  Gallo  81. 

—  De  la  Hanti  88. 

—  Meuricoffre  81. 

—  Nazionale  32. 

—  del  Popolo  39. 

—  Rendell  87. 

—  Rufl'u  81. 

—  Sanssouci  88. 

—  Thalberg  88. 
Virgil's  Tomb  86. 
S.  Vital e  92. 
Vomero  82.  89. 
Wine  21. 
Zoological   Station  33. 

Nardo  202. 

Naro  303. 

Naso  310. 

— ,  Fiumara  311. 

Nasone,  Punta  del  113. 

Natiolum  198. 

Naxos  233.  331. 

Nazaret  89. 

Nebrodic   Mts.,    the  226. 

333. 
Negro,  river  207. 
Neptunian  Mts.,  the  313. 

226. 
Nerano  150. 
Neretum  202. 
Nesis  88. 


Netium  198. 
Nicastro  221. 
S.  Niccolo  Varco  166. 
S.  Nicola  168.  194. 
— ,  Monte  103. 

—  (Capua)  9. 

—  (Leece)  202. 

—  (Mazzara)  283. 

—  (Termini)  290. 

—  d'Arena  348. 
Nicolosi  346.  336. 
Nicosia  291. 
Nicotera  224. 
Ninfa,  river  11.- 
S.  Ninfa  279. 
Nisi,  Fiume  di  326. 
Nisida  88.     , 

Nizza  di  Sicilia  326. 
Noce  273. 
Nocella,  river  277. 
Nocera  de'  Pagani  160. 
— .  Superiore  161. 
— ,  in  Calabria  224. 
Noicattaro  2C0. 
Nola  173.  174. 
Nora  371. 
Norba  11. 
Norcia  177.  190. 
Norma  11. 
Notabile,  La  379. 
Notaresco  190. 
Noto  306. 
Nova  Siri  214. 
Novara  312. 
Niiceria  Alfaterna  160. 
Nuoro  376.  373. 
Nurallao  375. 
Nursia  177. 

Ocre  181. 
Ofantino  196. 
Ofanto  river  194.  196. 
Offlda  189. 

Ogliastro,  in  Sicily  289. 
— ,  near  Paestum  166. 
Ogygia  377. 
Olbia  373. 
Oliver!  312. 
— ,  Fiumara  312. 
Olmedo  374. 
Ongnina,  L'  332. 
Ontanese  11. 
Ordona  194. 
,Oreto,  river  274. 
Oria  213. 
Oristano  372. 
Orlando,  Capo  d' 311. 146, 
Orosei  376.  373. 
Orri  371.      . 
Orru,  Monte  376. 
Orsara  di  Puglia  206. 
Orso,  Capo  d'  168. 
— ,  Monte  277.. 


INDEX. 

S.  Orsola  375. 
Orta  Nova  195. 
Ortona  191. 
Ortuabis  376. 
Oschiri  373. 
Osimo  189. 
Ostuni  200. 
Othonian  Islands  387. 
Othonous  387. 
Otranto  203. 
— ,  Terra  d'  176.  2C0. 
Ottaiano  10.  174. 
Ovindoli  181. 
Ozieri  373. 

Pabillonis  372. 
Pachino  305. 
Pace  321. 
Paceco  285. 
Pachynum,  Promont. 

308. 
Padula  207. 
Psestum  165.  166. 
Pagani  160. 
Paganica  180.   181. 
Palseokastrizza  401. 
Palaeopolis  30. 
Palagianello  200. 
Palagiano  200. 
Palagonia  302. 
Palavicini  270. 
Palazzo  195. 
Palazzolo  Acreide  306. 
Palermo  246. 

Acquasanta  263. 

S.AgataliScoruggi260. 

S.  Agostino  259. 

Albergo  de'  Poveri  270. 

SS.  Annunziata  267. 

S.  Antonio  257.  258. 

S.  Assunta  253. 

Bagaria     or     Bagheria 
275. 

Baida  273. 

Benedictine  Monastery 
272. 

Biblioteca    Comunale 
256. 

Botan.  Garden  259. 

Cala,  La  249.  257.  267. 

Campo  S.  Orsola  or  di 
S.  Spirito    274. 

Canaris  Monument  259. 

Cancelliere,  Chiesa  del 
254. 

Cappella  Palatina  250. 

Capuchin  Monastery 
270. 

Carceri  268. 

Carmine  Maggiore  256. 

Casa  Professa  255. 

Casino  Nuovo  247. 

Castellaccio,  II  272. 


407 

Palermo  : 

Castellammare,  Fort 

267. 
Castello  di  Mare  Dolce 

274. 
Catacombs  267. 
S.  Cataldo  255. 
S.  Caterina  255. 
Cathedral  253. 
Charles  V. ,   Statue  of 

254. 
S.  Chiara  256. 
S.  Ciro  274. 
S.  Cita  266. 
Collegio  Nuovo  254. 
Conservatorio  257. 
Corso  Alberto  Amedeo 

267. 

—  Calataflmi  270. 
Cottone,  Statue  of  260. 
Cuba,  La  270. 
Cubola  270. 

S.  Domenico  266. 
English  Cemetery  268. 

—  Church  248.  267. 
S.  Eulalia  259. 
Falde  268. 
Favara,  La  274. 
Favorita,  La  269. 
Finance  Office  257. 
Flora,  La  259. 
Florio,    Vine,    Statue 

of  267. 
Fontana     del    Garaffo 

257 
Foro  Italico  259. 
FoundlingHospital  257. 
S.  Francesco  de'  Chio- 

dari  257. 
Gangia,  la  253. 
Giardino    d'   Acclima- 

zione  271. 

—  Garibaldi  257. 

—  Inglese  260. 
S.  Giorgio  267. 

S.  Giovanni  degli  Ere- 
miti  252. 

—  de'  Leprosi  274. 

S.  Giuseppe  dei  Teatini 

254. 
Grotta  de'  Giganti  274. 

—  di  S.  Rosalia  269. 
Harbour  249. 
Health  248. 
History  249. 
Hotels  246. 
Infirmeria    dei    Sacer- 

doti  253. 
Istituto  Agrario  270. 
Jesuits'  Church  256. 
Lyceum  254. 
Madonna    dell'    Incor- 

onata  253. 


408 


INDEX. 


Palermo : 

Madonna   della  Provi- 

denza  254. 
Magione,  La  258. 
S.  Marco  260. 
S.  Maria    di   Altofonte 

273. 

—  dell1    Ammiraglio 
255. 

—  della  Catena  257. 

—  di  Gesii   273. 

—  di  Grazie  256. 

—  dei  Miracoli  257. 

—  Nuova  267. 

—  dello   Spasimo  258. 

—  della  Vittoria  258. 

—  della  Volta  259. 
Marina  259. 
S.  Martino  272. 
Martorana  255. 
S.  Matteo  256. 
Meli,  Statue  of  258. 
Mimnermum  272. 
Monreale  271. 
Monte  Pellegrino  268. 
Monterosato's   Collec- 
tion 255. 

Museo  Nazionale  260. 
National  Library  254. 
S.  Niccolo   dell'  Al- 
bergheria  256. 

—  dei  Greci  267. 
S.  Ninfa   (tower)  251. 
Observatory  251. 
Oratorio  di  S.  Lorenzo 

257. 

—  del  S.  Rosario  267, 
Palazzo  Abbatelli  258. 

—  Aiutamicristo  256. 

—  Arcivescovile  252. 

—  Baucina  258. 

—  Belmonte  254. 

—  Butera  258. 

—  S.  Cataldo  258. 

—  Cattolica  257. 

—  Chiaramonte  257. 

—  della  Citta  255. 

—  Federico  256. 

—  Forcella  258. 

—  Geraci  254. 

—  Municipale  255. 

—  Pietratagliata  259. 

—  Raffadale  256. 

—  Reale  250. 

—  Riso  254. 

—  Sclafani  252. 

—  Serradifalco  255. 

—  Settimo  256. 

—  dei  Tribunal!  258. 

—  Villafranca  254. 
Philip    V.  ,    Monument 

of  252. 
Piazza  Bologni  254 


Palermo : 
Piazza  della  Croce  de' 
Vespri  256. 

—  del  Duomo  253. 

—  dell'    Indipendenza 
252. 

—  della  Kalsa  258. 

—  della  Magione  258. 

—  Marina  257. 

—  dell'  Olivella  260. 

—  Pretoria  255. 

—  della   Rivoluzione 
256. 

—  Ruggero     Settimo 
260. 

—  Vigliena  254. 

—  della  Vittoria  250. 
Pie  di  Grotta,   church 

267. 
Pleta,    Chiesa  della 

258. 
S.  Pietro  Martire  259. 
Politeama  Garibaldi 

260. 
Ponte  dell'  Ammiraglio 

274. 

—  delle  Grazie  273. 
Porrazzi  273. 
Porta  S.  Antonino  256. 

—  di  Castro  253. 

—  Felice  257. 

—  Garibaldi  256. 

—  de'  Greci  258. 

—  Kuova  252. 

—  d'Ossuna  267. 
Portella  273. 
Porto  Salvo,  Chiesa  di 

257. 
Post  Office  248.  254. 
Punta   di  Bersaglio 

268. 
Quattro  Arie  273. 

—  Canti  254. 
Railway  Stations    246. 

256. 

Rocca,  La  271. 

S.   Rosalia,    Grotto    of 
269. 

S.  Salvatore  254. 

Settimo,  Ruggiero,  Sta- 
tue of  260. 

Spedale  Grande  252. 

S.  Spirito  274. 

Steamboats  248. 

Steri,  Lo  257. 

Stradoue  del  Borgo  268. 

Teatro  Vittorio 
Emanuele  260. 

Teresa,  S.  258. 

Tramways  247. 

University  255. 

Via  della  Bara  260. 

—  Garibaldi  256. 


Palermo : 
Via  della  Liberta  260. 

—  Macqueda  255.    259. 

—  Vittorio  Emanuele 
256.  254. 

Villa  Belmonte  268. 

—  Butera  267.  275. 

—  Florio  267. 

—  Giulia  259. 

—  Grazia  273. 

—  Palagonia  275. 

—  Serradifalco    267. 

—  Sofia  269. 

—  Tasca  271. 

—  Valguarnera  275. 
Zisa,  La  267. 

Palestrina  1. 

Palica  302. 

Palici,  Lago  de1  302. 

Palizzi  217. 

Palma,  near  Nola  174. 

—  di  Montechiaro  303. 
Palmaria  14. 
Palmarola  14. 
Palmi  222. 
Palo  del  Colle  199. 
Paludi  Pontine  12. 
Palycus  223. 

S.    Panagia,     Capo   350. 
Panaria  325. 
Pandateria  14. 
Panni  206. 
Panormos  234.  249. 
Pantacyas  349. 
S.  Pantaleo,  Isola  284. 
Pantaleone,  Mt.  391. 
Pantalica  349. 
Pantani,  lakes  321. 
Pantano  349. 

—  deir  Acerra  10. 

—  di  Policoro  214. 
Pantelleria  380.  226. 
Paola  223. 
— ,  Lago  di  15. 
S.  Paolo,  near  Syracuse 

306.  307. 
— ,  Island,  near  Sora  187 
— ,  near  Taranto  200. 
Paradiso,  Torrente  di  321 
Parco  273. 
Partanna  289. 
Parthenope  30. 
Partinico  277. 
Passero,  Promontorio  226, 

306. 
Passo  della  Portella  180 
Passofonduto  292. 
Passo  Martino  349. 
Pasteria  333. 
Pastina  171. 
Paterno  177.  160.  184. 
Paterno  335. 
Patti  311. 


INDEX. 


409 


Patii  203. 
Paulilatino  372. 
Pausilypon  88. 
Pecoriello  (Grotto)  149. 
Pedara  348. 
Pedaso  189. 
S.  Pelino  186. 
Pellaro  217. 
Pellegrino,  Monte  268. 

224.  228.  276. 
Pelleka  390. 
Peloric  Mts.  228. 
Pendolo,  Monte  146. 
Penna,  Punta  di  191. 
— ,  Punta  della  212. 
Pennata,  Punta  di  101. 
Penne  190. 
Pentima  186. 
Perda    Cuadda,    Eio    di 

376. 
Perdaliana  376. 
Perdas  Alvas,  Rio  de  las 

373. 
Perdedu,  Monte  376. 
Pergusa,  Lago  302. 
Pericoli,  Campo  180. 
Persano  207. 
Pertosa  207. 
Pescara  186.  190. 
Peseina  184. 
Pescolamazza  192. 
Pescolanciano  185. 
Pesto  166. 
Petina  207. 
Petraea  291. 
Petrale  286. 
Petralia  di  Sopra  291. 

—  di  Sotto  291. 
Pettineo,  Fiume  di  310. 
Pettorano  185. 
Phaleron  30. 
Pheleka,  bridge  391. 
Phlegraean  Plain,  the  91. 
Phoenicusa  325. 

Piana  dei  Greci  273. 
Piano,  Monte  190. 

—  de*  Cappuccini  286. 

—  del  Lago  346. 

—  di  Cinquemiglia  185. 
Piazza  Armerina  302. 
Picerno  208. 
Piedilueo  177. 
Piedimonte  d'  Alife  10. 

—  331.  333. 

S.  Pier  Niceto  313. 
Pietrabbondante  185. 
Pietracamela  181. 
Pietra-Elcina  192. 
Pietragalla  209. 
Pietrapaola  214. 
Pietrapertosa  209. 
Pietraperzia  302. 
Pietra  Santa  162. 


S.  Pietro,  Avezzano  182. 
— ,  Basilica  150. 
— ,  island  (Tarantol  210. 
— ,  —  (Sard.)  371.  365. 

in  Fine  6. 

Pula  371. 

di  Torres   373. 

—  Vernotico  202. 
Pignatara,  Monte  311. 
Pignataro  7. 

Pigne,  Valle  delle  151. 
Pilae  94. 
Pilastri  92. 
Pimonte  146. 
Pineta,  Monte  307. 
Pinna  190. 
Piomba,  river  190. 
Piperno  12. 
Piraino  311. 
Pirri  375. 
Pisciarelli,  I  95. 
Piscina  Grande  97. 
Piscina  Mirabilis  100. 
Pisciotta  166. 
Pisticci  209. 
Pithecusa  105. 
Pizzo  221. 

Cefalone  180. 

—  d'Intermesole  180. 
di  Sevo  189. 

Pizzone,  II  212. 
Pizzuta,  La  306. 
Placeolum  306. 
S.  Placido  326. 
Plaia,  the  371. 
Platani,  river  289.  292. 
Platano,  river  203. 
Plemmyrion  351. 
Ploaghe  373. 
Poetelia  214. 
Pofl  3. 

Pogerola  171. 
Poggio  di  S.  Angelo  303 

—  Imperiale  192. 
Poggioreale  174. 
Policastro  223. 
Policoro  213. 
Polignano  a  Mare  200. 
Polizzi  291. 

Polla  207. 

Pollina  310. 

— ,  Fiume  di  310. 

Pollino,   Monte  208.  214, 

219.  223. 
Pomigliano   d'  Arco  174, 
Pompeii  119. 

Altar  of  the  Lares  134. 

Amphitheatre  142. 

Bakehouse  139. 

Basilica  125. 

Bidental  129. 

Cardo  121.  130. 

Curia  127. 


Pompeii : 
Curia  Isiaca  130. 
Custom  House  140. 
Decumanus  Major  and 
Minor   122.  125.  135. 
Eumachia,  building  of 

128. 
Forum  Civile  126. 

—  Triangulare  129. 
Fountain  ofAbundantia 

131. 
Fullonica  134.  137. 
Gates  130.  140. 
Gladiators1  Barracks 

129. 
Hotel's  119. 
House    (casa)    of    the 

Wounded  Adonis  139. 

—  of  the  Anchor  137. 

—  of  Anteros  134. 

—  of  Apollo  139. 

—  of  Ariadne  135. 

—  with    the    Balcony 
133. 

—  of  the  Boar  Hunt  128. 

—  of  Caecilius  Jucun- 
dus  135. 

—  dei    Capitelli   Figu- 
rati  135. 

—  of  Castor  and  Pollux 
133. 

—  of  the  Centaur  138. 

—  del  Centenario  134. 

—  of  the  Chase  135. 

—  of  Corn.  Rufus  131. 

—  dei  Diadumeni  131. 

—  of  Epid.  Rufus  131. 

—  ofEpid.Sabinusl31. 

—  of  the  Faun  135. 

—  of  the  Large  Foun- 
tain 138. 

—  of  the  Small  Foun- 
tain 138. 

—  of   the  Grand-Duke 
of  Tuscany  135. 

—  of  Holconius  132. 

—  of  theLabyrinth  138. 

—  of  M.  Lticretius  133. 

—  of  Meleager  139. 

—  of    the   Mosaic  Co- 
lumns 141. 

—  dell'  Orso  133. 

—  of  Pansa  137. 

—  della    Pareta    Nera 
135. 

—  of  Pomponius  137. 

—  of  Sallust  139. 

—  of  Siricus  132. 

—  of  the  Surgeon  140. 

—  of  the   Tragic  Poet 
136. 

—  of  Vesonius  Primus 
134. 


410 


INDEX. 


Pompeii : 
House   of  the   Vestals 

140. 
Insula:  122. 
Library  139. 
Lupanare  133. 
Macellum  127. 
Museum  124. 
Oscan  tombs  141. 
Pagus    Augustus  Felix 

140. 
Pantheon  127. 
Pavement  122. 
Porta  di  Ercolano  140. 

—  Marina  124. 

—  di  Stabia  130. 
Regions  121. 

Scuola       Archeologica 

139. 
Shops'  122.  133. 
Stabian  Thermse  131. 
Strada     deir     Abbon- 

danza  131. 

—  dei  Diadumeni  131. 

—  della  Fortuna  135. 

—  della  Fullonica  138. 

—  del  Lupanare  133. 

—  di  Mercurio  137. 

—  di  Nola  134. 

—  di  Sallustio  139. 

—  della  Scuola  128. 

—  dei  Sepolcri  140. 

—  Stabianal30.133.134. 

—  delle  Terme  136. 
Street  of  Tombs  140. 
Streets  122. 
Taverns  138.  140. 
Temple  of  .^Esculapius 

130. 

—  of  Apollo   125.   129. 

—  of  Augustus  128. 

—  of  Fortuna  136. 

—  of  Isis.130. 

—  of  Jupiter  126. 

—  of  the  Lares  137. 

—  of  Mercury  128. 
Theatre,  the  Great  129. 
— ,  the  Small  130. 
Thermae  133.  136. 
— ,  Stabian  131. 
Tomb    of    M.     Arrius 

Diomedes  142. 

—  of  Calventius  Quin- 
tus  141. 

—  of  Cerinius  141. 

—  of  the  Garlands  141. 

—  of  M.  Libella  142. 

—  of  Mamia  141. 

—  of  !N3evoleia  Tyche 
142. 

—  of  M.  Porcins  141. 

—  of  Scaurus  141. 

—  of  Servilia  141 


Pompeii  : 

Tomb  of  Terentius  141. 

—  of  Veius  141. 

—  of  N.  Velasius  Gra- 
tus  142. 

Town  Wall  140. 
Tribunals  128. 
Triclinium  142. 
TriumphalArchl26.127. 
"Via  Marina  125. 
Vico  del  Lupanare  132. 
Vicolo  dei  Teatri   129. 
Villa  of  Cicero  141. 

—  of  Diomedes  142. 
Pondikonisi  390. 
Ponte  di  Bovino  206. 

—  di  Caligola  94. 

—  Carcacci  335. 

—  Cartau  371. 

—  di  Cicerone  488. 

—  S.  Cono  208. 

—  della  Disgrazia  331. 

—  della  Maddalena   111. 

—  Maggiore  147. 

—  di  Silla  207. 

—  Valentino  203. 
Pontecagnano  165. 
Pontelandolfo  192. 
Ponti  della  Valle  10.  204. 
Pontiae  14. 
Pontine  Islands  14. 

—  Marshes  12. 
Pontone  169.  172. 
— ,  Castello  169. 
Ponza  Islands  14. 
Popoli  186. 
Porcari,  river  349. 
Porrazzi  273. 
Portella,  La  15. 

—  di  Mare  273.  276. 
— ,  Monte  della  180. 
— ,  Passo  della  180. 
Porticella  276. 
Portici  108. 
Porto  d'Ascoli  189.  190. 

—  Civitanova  189. 

—  Empedocle  293.228.290 

—  S.  Giorgio  189. 

—  d'Ischia  103. 

—  di  Levante  324. 

—  Palo  306. 

—  di  Ponente  325. 

—  Scuso  371. 

—  Torres  375. 

—  d'Ulisse  306. 
Portocannone  191. 
Portovesme  371. 
Portus  Caiela  17. 

—  Julius  98. 

—  Ulyxis  333. 
Poseidonia  166. 
Posilipo  85.  86. 

Pnsit.ann    173.    152. 


Potamo  390. 
Potentia  208. 
Potenza  208. 

—  Picena  189. 
Pozzallo  306. 
Pozzano  145. 
Pozzo  d'  Antullo  2. 

—  di  Gotto  312. 

—  di  Latignano  177. 

—  di  S.  Venera  332. 
Pozzopiano  147.  152. 
Pozzuoli  93. 
Prajano  173. 
Prata  175. 
Pratola  175. 

-Peligna  186. 
Preazzano  152. 
Presenzano  6.  186. 
Presicce  203. 
Prezza  184. 
Priolo  350. 
Priora  150. 
Privernum  12. 
Prochyia  104. 
Procida  104. 
-,  Canale  di  102. 
— ,  Monte  di  102. 
Promontorium  Herculis 

217. 

—  lapygium  203- 

—  Leucopetrae  217. 

—  Minervae  150. 

—  Pelorum  322. 
Salentinum  203. 

Prossedi  12. 
Pudano  215. 
Pula  371. 
Puteolaneum  97. 
Puteoli  94. 

duadriga  di  Mezzo  276. 
S.  Quaranta  206. 
Quartu  370.  368. 
Quattro  Arie  273. 
Quisisana  145. 

Racalmuto  299. 
Raddusa  301. 
Radicena  217. 
Kagattisi  285. 
Ragusa  305. 
Rahal  Zabuth  289. 
Eaiano  1S1. 

—  Superiore  184. 
Raito  168. 
Rama,  Capo  di  277. 
Randazzo  334. 
Rapido,  river  4. 
Rapolla  194. 
Ras  el-Belat  283. 
Ravello  171. 
Reate  177. 
Reca.na.ti    1RQ 


Reggio  217. 
Eegi  Lagni  10. 
Reginolo,  river  169. 
Reitano,  river  310. 
Rende  S.  Fili  219. 
Rendina,  river  194. 
Resina  109. 
Retiro  15. 
Revigliano  143. 
Rhegium  217. 
Riace  216. 
Riardo  6. 
Ribera  289. 
Rieti  177. 

Rigano,  Passo  di,  273. 
Riofreddo  181. 
Rionera  185. 
Ripabottoni  191. 
Ripalimosano  191. 
Ripalta  192. 
Ripatransone  189. 
Ripattone  190. 
Riposto  331. 
Rivisondoli  185. 
S.  Rizzo,  Colle  di  313. 
Rizzuto,  Capo  216. 
Rocca  Bernarda  215. 

—  Cinquemiglia   185. 

—  di  Corno  178. 

—  di  Cusa  283. 

—  d'Evandro  6. 

—  di  Fondi  177/178. 

—  Gorga  12. 

—  Grande  292. 

—  Guelfonia  319. 

—  Imperiale  214. 

—  di  Mezzo  181. 

—  Monfina  6. 

—  Pia  185. 

—  Ravindola  186. 

—  di  Sarno  291. 

—  Secca  12. 

—  Valloscura  185. 
Roccalumera  326. 
Rqccapalumba  291. 
Roccarainola  174. 
Roccarasa  185. 
Roccasecca  3.   188. 
Rocceletta,  La  215. 
Roccella  (Sicily)  308. 

—  Ionica  217. 
Rocchetta  S.  Antonio  194. 
Rocciola,  Punta  di  104. 
Roggiano  219. 
Rogliano  220. 
Romagnano  208. 
Romano  181. 

Rometta  313. 
Rosa,  Mte.  323. 
Rosamarina,Fiumara  310. 
Rosarno  221. 
Rose  219. 
Roseto  214. 


INDEX. 

Rosolini  306. 
Rossano'214. 
Rotello  191. 
Roveto,  Monte  di  292. 
-,  Val  di  187. 
Roviano  181. 
Rovolo,  Monte  335. 
Rubi  197. 
Rudiae  202. 
Rugge  202. 
Rus-Melkarth  290. 
Rutigliano  200. 
Ruvo  197. 

Sabato,  river  204. 
Sabdtus  220. 
Sacco,  river  1. 
Saepinum  192. 
Sagittario  184.  185. 
Sagras  216. 
Sagrus  185.  191. 
Sala  207.  ' 

—  (Catanzaro)  215. 
Salandra  209. 
Salandrella,  river  209. 
Salemi  279. 
Salerno  163. 
Salernurn  163. 
Salina,  Isola  325. 
Saline  217. 
Salinella  336. 
Salto  182. 

Salvatichi,  Monte  de'  102. 
Salvatore,  Monte  (Cefalii) 

309.  226. 

(Corfu)  387.  391. 

(Lipari  Islands)  325. 

—  dei  Greci  321. 
Salvo,  Monte  300. 
S.  Salvo  191. 
Samassi  371. 
Sambucca  289. 
JSamnium  176. 
Sampieri  305. 
Sangro,  river  185.  191. 
Sanluri  371. 
Sansone,  Chiesa  di  209. 
Saponara  208.  313. 
Sarcidano  375. 
Sardinia  365. 
Sarno  174. 

river  143.  174. 
,  Villa  92.  95. 
Sa'ssa  178. 
Sassano  207. 
Sassari  374. 
Saticola  204. 
Saviano  174. 
Savignano  206. 
Savone,  river  18. 
Savuto,  river  220.  224. 
Scafati  160. 
Scala  171.  172. 


411 

Scala  di  Giocca  374. 
— ,  near  Patti  311. 
Scaletta,  near  Eavello  172. 
— ,  near  Messina  326. 
Scalilli  289. 
Scamander  278. 
Seanno  184.  185. 
Scanzano  289.  213. 
Schikly,  island  381. 
Schioppo,  Lo  187. 
Schiso,  Castello  di  331. 
Sciacca  288. 
Sciara  291. 
Scicli  305. 
Scilla  222. 
Scisciano  174. 
Sclafani  291. 
Scogli  de'  Ciclopi  332. 
Scoglitti  304. 
Scordia  302.   349. 
Seurcola  182. 
Scutolo,  Punta  di  146. 
Scylaceum  216. 
Scylla  222. 
S.  Sebastiano  375.  376. 

—  (Vesuvius),  115. 
Sebeto,  river  108. 
Sebka  el-Rouan  386. 
Segesta  278. 
Segni  1. 

Sele,  river  166.207. 
Selina,  Torrente  327. 
Selinunto  280.  283. 
Selinus  280.  234. 
Sella  di  Corno  178. 
Sella-Misilbesi  289. 
Sellia  215. 
Seminara  217. 
Senorbi  375. 
Sepino  192. 
Serapeuin,  the  96. 
Serino  175. 
— ,  Lago  di  208. 
Sermoneta  11. 
Serra  delle  Concazze  348. 

—  del  Solflzio  346. 
della  Spina  335. 

Serracapriola  192. 
Serradifalco  299. 
Serramanna  371. 
Serri  375. 
Sessa  Aurunca  18. 
Sesto  Campano  186. 

—  Capriati  186. 
Setia  12. 
Settimo  375. 
Seui  376. 
Seulo  376. 
S.  Severo  192. 
Sevo,  Pizzo  di  189. 
Sezze  12. 
Sferracavallo  277 
Sferro  302. 


412 


INDEX. 


Sgurgola  2. 
Sibari  214. 
Sibilla,    Montagna    della 

176.  189. 
Sicci  375. 
Sicignano  207. 
Sicily  225. 
Sicoli  184. 
Siderno  216. 
Sidi-Bou-Said  386. 
Signia  1. 
Signora,  la  308. 
Sikelia  225. 
Sila  Mountains   220.  214. 

218. 
Silarus  166. 
Siliqua  371. 
Silvi  190. 
Simaxis  372. 
Simeto  302.  349. 
— ,  river  228.  301.  302. 
Simmeri  215. 
Sinno,  river  208.  214. 
Sinuessa  18. 
Sinus  Terinaeus  220. 
Sipontum  193. 
Sirens ,    Islands     of    the 

150. 
Sirino,  Monte  208. 
Siris  208.  214. 
Soccavo  91. 
Solanto  275. 
Solaro,  Monte  158.  154. 
Solarussa  372. 
Solemnis  375. 
Soleto  202. 
Solfatara  95. 
Solfizio,  Serra  del  346. 
Solmona  184. 
Soloeis  275.  234. 
Solofra  175. 
Solopaca  204. 
Soluntum  275. 
Somma,  Monte   118.  113. 
Sonnino  12. 
Sora  187.  3. 
Sorgono  376. 
Sori,  Monte,  226. 
Soriano  221. 
Sorrentini  311. 
Sorrento  147. 
— ,  Piano  di  147. 
— ,  Punta  di  149. 
Sortino  307. 
S.  Sostene  216. 
Sotir  292. 
Soverato  216. 
Spaccaforno  306. 
Spada,  Monte  376. 
Spadafora  313. 
Spagnuola  285. 
Spampinato,  Cava  di  307. 
Sparagio,  Monte  297, 


Sparanise  7.  18. 
Spartivento,     Capo    217. 

223.  368. 
Sperlinga  291. 
Sperlonga  16. 
Sperone  174. 
Spezzano  208.  219. 
Spiaggia    di   Miniscola 

102. 
Spina,  Monte  92. 
Spinetoli  189. 
S.  Spirito  198. 

(Sicily)  185.  299. 

Spoleto  190. 
Squillace  216. 
Squinzano  202. 
Stabiae  144. 
Staglino  199. 
Stagnicello  302. 
Stagnone,  Lo  284. 
Stampaci  306. 
S.  Stefano  14. 

—  del  Bosco  221. 

—  di  Camastra  310. 
Stilo  216. 
Strato  85. 
Stromboli  224.  325. 
Stroncone  177. 
Strongoli  214. 
Strongyle  325. 
Stufe,  le  324. 

—  di  S.  Germano  92. 
Subveni  Homini  92. 
Suelli  375. 
Suessa  Aurunca  18. 
Suessula  10. 
Sulmo  184. 
Surrentum  148. 
Su  Suergiu  365. 
Sutera,  292. 
— ,  Pizzo  di  292. 
Suvero,  Capo  224. 
Sybaris  214.  219. 
Symaethus  349. 
Syraco  363. 
Syracuse  350. 

Achradina  356. 
Agathocles ,   house   of 

361. 
Altar  of  Hiero  358. 
Amphitheatre  357.  358. 
Aqueducts  357. 
Ara  357. 

Aretlmsa,Fountain  355. 
Belvedere  360. 
Bouleuterium  356. 
Bufardeci,  Giard.  357. 
Buffalaro  360. 
Capuchin    Monastery 

362. 
Catacombs  362. 
Cathedral  354. 
City  Wall  357. 


Syracuse: 
Cyane,  Fountain  364. 
Due  Fratelli  363. 
Ear   of  Dionysius  359. 
Epipolse  357. 
Euryelus  360. 
S.  Giovanni  362. 
Grotta  di  Nettuno  363. 
Harbour,  Great  356. 
— ,  Marble,  356. 
— ,  Small  361.  351.  356. 
Labdalon  361.  357. 
Latomia  de'  Cappuccini 
362. 

—  Casale  362. 

—  del  Filosofo  360. 

—  del  Paradiso  358. 
357. 

—  Santa  Venera  359. 
Leon  361. 
Library  355. 
S.  Lucia  361. 
St.  Marcian  362. 
Market  (Agora)  356.358. 
Monte  Crimiti  357. 
Museum  355. 
Neapolis  357. 
Nymphseum  359. 
Olympieum  364. 
Ortygia  354.  356. 
PalEestra  357. 
Palazzo  Montalto  356. 
PasseggiataAretusa  355. 
Pentapylon  356. 
Pisma  364. 
Polichne  364. 
Prytanenm  356. 
Scala  Greca  363. 
Sineechia  360. 
Street  of  Tombs  359. 
Telegraph,  the  361. 
Temenites  357. 
Temple  of  Diana  356. 

—  of  Minerva  354. 
Theatre,  Greek  359. 
Thymbris  361.  357. 
Timoleonteum  356. 
Tomb    of  Archimedes 

363. 
_  of  Platen  362. 

—  of  Timoleon  363. 
Town  Wall  357. 
Tyche  357. 
Villa  Landolina  362. 
Wall  of  Dionysius  361. 

357. 

Taburno,  Monte  204. 
Tagliacozzo  182. 
Tagliavia  289. 
Tammaro,  river  206. 
Tanager  207. 
Tanagro  207. 


Tanaro,  river  192. 
Taormina  327. 
Taranto  210 
Taras  210. 
Tarentum  210. 
Tarracina  13. 
Tarsia  219. 
Tauromenium  327. 
Taviano  203. 
Tavolara  365. 
Tavole  Paladine,  le  2G9. 
Tavoliere  della,Puglial93. 

195. 
Teano  6. 

Teanum  Sidicinum  6. 
Teate  Marrucinorum  186. 
Tegiano  207. 
Tegianum  207. 
Telegrafo,  the  (Capri)  156. 

—  di  Marecoccola  152. 
— ,  near  Messina  321. 313. 
— ,  near  Palermo  269. 
— ,  near  Sorrento  151. 
Telese  204. 
— ,  Lago  di  204. 
Telesia  204. 
Tellaro,  river  306. 
Temo,  river  865. 
Tempio  373. 
S.  Teodoro  390. 
— ,  grotto  of  310. 
Tenna,  river  189. 
Teramo  190. 
S.  Teresa  326. 
Terias  349. 
Terlizzi  197. 
Terme  93. 
Termini  (Sicily)   290. 

—  (Massalubrense)    150. 

—  di  Castro  312. 
Termoli  191. 
Terni  177. 
Terra  di  Bari  176. 

—  di  Lavoro  7.  15. 

—  d'Otranto  176.  200. 
Terracina  13. 
Terranova  (Sard.)  373. 

—  (Calabria)  214. 

—  (Sicily)  304. 
Terrasini  277. 
Terzigno  10. 
Teverone  181. 
Thapsus  350. 
Tharrus  372. 
Therasia  324. 
Thermae  Himerenses  290. 

—  Neronianae  98. 

—  Segestanae  279. 

—  Selinuntinae  28S. 
Thermissa  324. 
Thurii  214. 
Thymbris  357. 
Tiberio,  Villa  di  156. 


INDEX. 

Tifata,  Mons.9. 

Tifernus  192. 

Tigliana,  La  151. 

Tindaro,  Capo  311. 

Tiriolo  220. 

Tirso  373. 

— ,  the  365.  372. 

Tissa  333. 

Tissi  374. 

Tito  208. 

Tolerus  1. 

Tommaso  Natale  276. 

Tonara372.  376. 

Torano  219. 

Tordino,  river  190. 

Torino  di  Sangro  191. 

Tornimparte  178. 

Torralba  373. 

Torre  Annunziata  111. 

—  Cerchiara  214. 

—  di  Chiunzo  160. 

—  de'  Conflni  15. 
dell'  Epi  tafia  15. 
del  Filosofo  348. 
di  Gaveta  102. 
di  Gerace  217. 
del  Greco  110. 
di  Grifo  345. 
de'  Legni  286. 

—  del  Marcello  350. 

—  Masdea  221. 

—  di  Melissa  214. 

—  di  Milo  219. 

—  d'Orlando  18. 
de'  Passeri  186. 

Torrecuso  204. 
Torrelifo  345. 
Torremare  209. 
Tortoreto  190. 
Tovere  171. 
Trabia  290. 

Tragara,  Punta  155.   159 
Traina,  Foresta  di  335. 
Tramonti,  Val  160. 
Trani  197. 
Trapani  285.  228. 
Trappeto  277. 
Trebisacce  214. 
Tre  Castagni  332. 
Tre  Fontane  302. 
Tre  Fratelli  146. 
Trejenta  375. 
Tremestieri  326. 
Tremiti  Islands,  the  191. 
Trepuzzi  202. 
Trerus  1. 
Tres  Tabernae  11. 
Trevi,  Monte  12. 
Tricarico  209. 
Tricase  203. 
Triglio,  il,  212. 
Trigno,  river  191.  : 

Trinacria  225. 


413 

Trinita  della  Cava  162. 
—  della  Delia  280. 
Trinitapoli  196. 
Trinius  191. 
Triocala  289. 
Trionto,  river  214. 
Tripi,  Pizzo  di  311. 
Trivigno  209. 
Trogilus  350. 
Troja  206. 
Troina  301. 

Tronto,  river  189.  190. 
Tropea  221.  224. 
Trotilon  349. 
Truentus  190. 
Tufo  175. 
Tumolo,  Capo  168. 
Tunis  381. 
Tuoro  Grande  156. 
Turris  Lybissonis  375. 
Taturano  202. 
Tyndaris  311. 

Uggento  203. 
Umberto  -  Margherita, 

Monte  344. 
Uras  372. 
Uria  213. 
Ururi  191. 
Usini  374. 
Ustica  276. 
Uta  371. 
Utica  386. 
Uxentum  203. 

Vaglio  209. 
Vairano  6. 
S.  Valentino  186. 
Valetta,  la  378. 
Valguarnera  301. 
Valle  del  Bove  348. 
di  Bovino  206. 

—  di  Diano  207. 

—  di  Maddaloni  204. 

—  de'    Molini    (Amalfi) 
171. 

delle  Pigne  151. 
[—  di  Pompei  160. 

—  dei  Porci  269. 
Valledolmo  298. 
Vallelunga  298. 
Valmontone  1. 
Valsavoia  349. 
Valverde  332. 
Vandra,  river  185. 
Vandria  185. 
Varano  189. 
Vasto  191. 

—  d'Aimone  191. 
Vaticano,  Capo  224. 
Velino  177. 

I—,  Monte  182. 
— ,  river  177.  190. 


414 


INDEX. 


Velitrae  11. 
Velletri  11. 
Venafro  186. 
Vena/rum  186. 
Venere,  Monte  331. 
Venetico  313. 
Venosa  195. 
Ventotene  14. 
Vehusia  195. 
Verbicaro  223. 
Vergine,  Monte  175.  325. 
Veroli  2. 
Verulae  2. 
Vervece  149. 
Vesevus,  Mons  113. 
Vespasia  177. 
Vesuvius,  Mount  112. 
Vettica  Maggiore  173. 

—  Minore  171.  173. 
Via  Appia  12.  201. 

—  Campana  97. 

—  Cumana.97. 

—  fferculea  98. 

—  Latina  1.  5. 

—  Puteolana  97. 

—  Valeria  181. 
Viagrande  332. 
Vibinum  206. 
Vibo  Valentia  221. 
Vico  193. 


Vico  Alberi  152. 

—  Alvano  152. 

—  Equense  146. 
Vicus  Aequensis  146. 
Vido  387. 

Viesti  193. 
Vietri  163. 
Vigliano  178. 
Viglio,  Monte  187. 
Villa  S.  Giovanni  218. 222. 

—  Grazia  273. 

—  Jovis  156. 

—  Lusciano  97. 

—  Nuova  372. 
Villabate  289. 
Villafrati  289. 
Villalba  298. 
Villanova  Tulo  376. 
Villarosa  299. 
Villasor  371. 
Villazzano  149. 
Vinchiaturo  192. 
Vinius  4. 

S.  Vitaliano  174. 

S.  Vito,    Capo  (Taranto) 

210. 
(Sicily)  277. 

—  Lanciano  191. 

—  d'Otranto  200. 
S.  Vittore  6. 


Vittoria  304. 
S.  Vittorino  180.  190. 
Vitulano  204. 
Vivara  104.  105. 
Volcanello  324. 
Volcano  324. 
Volturno,  river  7. 186. 204. 
Vomano,  river  190. 
Vomanus  190. 
Vomero  82.  89. 
Vulcania  324. 
Vulcaniae  323. 
Vulture,  Monte  194. 

2Liphonia  350. 
Xirbi  298. 

Zafferana,  Capo  276. 
—  (.Etna)  348. 
Zagarolo  1. 
Zambrone,  Capo  224. 
Zancle  233.  315. 
Zannone  14. 
Zapulla,  Fiumara  310. 
Zimbra  380. 
Zimbretta  380. 
Zisa,  La  267. 
Zolfare  299. 
Zollino  202. 
Zucco  277. 


Leipsic:   Printed  by  Breitkopf  ife  Hartel.