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Carson U oyer 

The first and most important step to take in repairing a damaged fen- 
der, is to decide the method of attack. One must decide in -which direction the 
damaging force acted and then apply an opposite strking force with a heavy ham- 
mer to bring the damaged section into alignment with the undamaged part of the 
fender. If the dent is in the front half of the front fender, a hand jack 
should be placed tinder the front bead so that when pressure is applied to the 
jack, tension will be produced in the f ender that will make it rigid and steady 
for further operations. 

After aligning the fender, a light fender hammer with wide flat faces 
and a small curved dolly block are used simultaneously to smooth out the rough 
spots. Ihe dolly block is held in one hand underneath the fender , while the 
hammer, held in the other, is brought down in steady even blows. C«,re must be 
taken so that one does not hit repeatedly in one spotj but moves slowly over 
the damaged area. Constant hitting in one spot stretches the metal and pro- 
duces a bulge which is rore noticeable on a flat surface than on a curved one* 
The only way to remedy the bulge is by Jjeating the spot with an aceteylene 
torch to a cherry red and then hitting it lightly with a hammer. 

¥hen the fender has been smoothed out, an electric grinder is 
brought into operation. The grinder consists of a rotating abrasive disk, 
which when brought into contact with the fender removes the small irregularities 
in the metal. The grinder performs just like a rough file, only faster. By 
grinding over the damaged area one can detect low spots or lit+le pockets in 
the metal, because paint remains in them due to the fact that the spots are 
below the surface of the grinding disk. 

In order to bring these spots to the surface, a pecking harrmer, 
with a long sharp pointed end, is used underneath the lender, hitting outward. 
If the damage covers a large area, a hand file is passed over the area in a 


long steady strokes. If low spots still persist, they are hit out again 
with the pecking hammer and refiled. This operation is continued until all 
of the spots have been removed. Then a final grinding with the electric grin- 
der is performed* This last operation is necessary because the hand file pro- 
duces a surface too smooth for the adherance of paint. 

The edge produced by the bare metal and the surrounding paint is so 
definite that it must be smoothed down by hand with dry sandpaper #100 before 
being painted. This operation, called "feather edging", is not complete until 
a second sanding with wet #240 paper is carried out. 

The damaged area is now ready for painting. A heavy coat of primer 
surfacer is applied by means of an air spraying gun. After drying, the surfacer 
is sanded down to a smooth finish by using wet #240 paper. Kext, abrasive rub- 
bing compound is applied with a darp cloth to clean the damaged area. The area 
thus cleaned, is sprayed with the correct shadp of paint, made up on a paint 
machine. "When the paint dries, it is rubbed briskly with rubbing compound. Care 
must be taken, however, to rub the edge lightly where the new paint meets the 
old paint in order that a unnoticeable blend results. 



MOTOR , o72 Uadieon Ave., New York, 1942 
k'OTOR SERVICE, Chicago, 111., 1942