84 JOURNEYS IN PERSIA LETTER mx spoken unkindly to him, and he had no wish to live. However, this morbid frame of mind was overcome by firm dealing, and Aziz attended to him all night, and salol, etc., are curing him. He is the one grateful creature that I have seen among these Orientals, and his gratitude is in return for a mere trifle. "We were fording a stream one hot day, and seeing him scooping up water with difficulty in his hands, I took out my mug for him. Ever since he has done anything that he can for me. He brings tasteful little bouquets of flowers, gathers wild cherries, and shows the tittle courtesies which spring from a kindly nature. He said several times to Mirza, " It isn't only that the Khanum gave me the cup, but she took trouble for me." It may be imagined what a desert as to grateful and kindly feeling I am living in when this trifle appears like an oasis. Hard, cunning, unblushing greed is as painful a characteristic of the Bakhtiaris as it is of the Persians. Hassan is now " down with fever" and the opium craving, and one of the cTiarvadars with fever. The cold winds of G-unak were too much for them. All day shots have been heard among the near mountains'. The Hajwands, a powerful tribe, and the Abdulwands are fighting about a recent cutting off of a cow's tail, but the actual cause of the feud is deeper, and dates farther back. Aziz Khan wants us to return to Diz Arjanak, fearing that we may become implicated, and the Agha is calling him a coward, and telling him to ride back alone. Bang! Bang ! The firing is now close and frequent, and the dropping shots are varied by straggling volleys. With the glasses I can see the tribesmen loading and firing on the crests of the near hills. A great number are en- gaged. One tribe has put up a stone breastwork at our end of the valley, but the enemy is attacking the other.