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A SEYYID CAMP                             123

Bala Hissar is a really striking object, its pile of ancient
buildings crowning the steep mass of naked rock which
rises out of the dark greenery and lofty poplars and
cypresses of the irrigated gardens. This fort, which is in
ruins, encloses within its double walls the Wall's palace
and other official buildings, and a fine reservoir, 178 feet
by 118, fed by a vigorous spring. In the gardens by
the river, north of the fort, are some remains of the walls
and towers of the ancient Atabeg capital, and there are
also ruins of an aqueduct and of an ancient bridge, of
which ten arches are still standing. The most interesting
relic, however, is a round tower sixty feet high in fairly
good preservation, with a Kufic inscription round the top.

It is said that there are 1200 houses in Khuramabad,
which would give it a population of over 7000. It has
been visited by several Englishmen for purposes of trade
or research, and it has doubtless made the same impres-
sion upon them all as it does upon me.

Burujird, August 9.A night march of twenty-two
miles through perilous country brought us in blazing heat
to an encampment of Seyyids of the Bairanawand tribe,
fine-looking men, showing in their haughty bearing their
pride in their illustrious -lineage, but not above depriving
us during the night of many useful articles. Their camp
had three streets of tents, in front of which oxen were
treading out wheat all day long. These Seyyids have
much wealth in mares and oxen. Again we started at
moonrise for what was regarded as a dangerous march,
a party of Sagwands having gone on ahead, with hostile
intentions, it was said.

However, nothing happened, and nothing was heard
except the shouts of our own charvadars and the pande-
monium made by the simultaneous barking of huge dogs
in the many camps we passed but could not see. We
rode through cultivated valleys full of nomads, forded the