130 JOURNEYS IN PEESIA LETTER ssi It seems as if Burujird were destitute of cavalry, at least of n\en who can be spared, though it has been stated that a whole cavalry regiment is in garrison.1 The Governor promised three escorts; my modest request was for one sowar, and a very unmilitary-looking horseman has arrived for me, but now, within an hour of marching, the others are without even one! Attended by the Hakim and an escort, we rode yester- day through Burujird. To write that a third of it is in ruins is simply to write that it is a Persian town. It has crumbling mud walls, said to be five miles in circum- ference, five gates in bad repair, and a ditch, now par- tially cultivated. It is situated in Lat. 33° 55' N, and its Long, is 48° 55'E. Its elevation is 4375 feet [Bell]. Its popula- tion is estimated at from 12,000 to 18,000, and includes a great many Seyyids and mollahs. It has a Persian Telegraph Office and Post Office, neither of them to be depended upon, six large and very many small mosques, a number of mosque schools, thirty-three public baths, and six caravanserais. It manufactures woollen goods, carpets, and the best araJc to be found in Persia. It also pro- duces dried fruits and treacle made from grapes. The bazars are large, light, and well supplied with European goods, Eussian and English cottons in enormous quantities, Austrian kerosene lamps of all descriptions and prices, Eussian mirrors, framed coloured engravings of the Eussian Imperial family, Eussian 'samovars, tea-glasses and tea-trays, Eussian sewing and machine cotton, American sewing machines, Eussian woollen cloth, fine and heavy, Eussian china, 1 Throughout the part of Persia in which I have travelled I have observed a most remarkable discrepancy between the numbers of soldiers said to garrison any given place, and the number which on further investigation turned out to be actually there. It is safe to deduct from fifty to ninety per cent from the number in the original statement!