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152                      JOUENEYS IN PERSIA           LETTER xxm

cold, are dark brown and seamless, and cost from 10s. to
20s. They have sleeves closed at the end to form a
glove, and with a slit below the elbow through which the
hand can be protruded and used. These coats are cloak-
like, the sleeve is as long as the coat, and they are often
worn merely suspended from the neck.

Hamadan is also famous for copper-work, and makes
and dyes cottons. The tanneries and the dye-works
between them create a stench which is perceptible for
miles. The neighbourhood produces much wine, white
like hock, and red like claret, both being harsh and the
first heady. The Armenians are the chief makers and
sellers of wine. I wish I could add that they are the only
people who get drunk, but this is not the case, for from
the Prince Governor downwards,* among the rich Moslems,
intemperance has become common, and even many young
men are " going to wreck with drink," sacrificing the virtue
to which Moslems have been able to point with pride
as differentiating them from so-called Christians. I was
unable to return the Prince Governor's visit and courtesies
in accordance with the etiquette for a European lady
traveller, because of the helpless condition in which he and
a party of convivial friends were found by the messenger
sent by me to ask him to appoint an hour for my visit.
Eaisins, treacle, and ardk are also manufactured. The
rich prefer cognac to arak. It is spirit-drinking rather
than wine-drinking which is sapping the life of the
Moslems of Hamadan.

It is singular that in this Ecbatana, the capital of
Greater Media, there should be so very few remains of an
ancient greatness and splendour. Just outside the town
a low eminence called Musala is pointed out as the site
of the palace of the Median kings, but even this is
doubtful. Coins of an ancient date are both dug up and
fabricated by the Jews. Only two really interesting