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164                     JOURNEYS IN PEBSIA           LETTER xxiv

Sartip Keza Khan told me it would be a matter of regret
to all except a few fanatics if the ladies were to leave the
city. From the Prince Governor downwards courtesy and
kindness are shown to them, and their philanthropic and
educational work is approved in the highest quarters,
though they never blink the fact that they are prosely-

There is an Armenian Protestant congregation with a
native pastor and a fine church, and nothing shows more
plainly the toleration which prevails in Hamadan than
the number of Moslems to be seen every Sunday at the
morning service, which is in Persian. In this church
total abstinence is a "term of communion," and unfer-
mented wine is used in the celebration of the Eucharist.

This wine is very delicious, and has the full flavour
and aroma of the fresh grape even after being three years
in bottle. It is not boiled, as much " unfermented wine "

1 Since I returned I have "been asked more than once, "What are the
results of missions in Hamadan ?" Among those which appear on the
surface are the spiritual enlightenment of a number of persons whose minds
were blinded by the gross and childish superstitions and the inconceiv-
able ignorance into which the ancient church of S. Gregory the Illumi-
nator has fallen. The raising of a higher standard of morals among the
Armenians, so that a decided stigma is coining to be attached to drunken-
ness and other vices. The bringing the whole of the rising generation of
Armenians under influences which in all respects "make for righteous-
ness." The elevation of a large number of women into being the com-
panions and helps rather than the drudges of men. The bestowing upon
boys an education which fits them for any positions to which they may
aspire in Persia and elsewhere, and creates a taste for intellectual pursuits.
The introduction of European medicine and surgery, and the bringing
them within the reach of the poorest of the people. The breaking down
of some Moslem prejudices against Christians. The gradually ameliorat-
ing influence exercised by the exhibition of the religion of Jesus Christ in
purity of life, in ceaseless benevolence, in truthfulness and loyalty to engage-
ments, in kind and just dealing, in temperance and self-denial, and the
many virtues which make up Christian discipleship, and the dissemination
in the city and neighbourhood of a higher teaching on the duties of
common life, illustrated by example, not in fits and starts, but through
years of loving and patient labour.