Journeys In Persia And Kurdistan ( Vol.Ii).

LETTER xxv THE ROTTEN ROW OF SUJBULlK 209

painted blue or pink, or covered with arabesques in
red, with projecting lattice windows of dark wood, and
balconies overhanging the water.

This shingle where I am encamped is the Eotten Eow
of the town, and is very lively, this evening, for numbers
of Kurds have been galloping their horses here, and per-
forming feats of horsemanship before the admiring eyes of
hundreds of promenaders, male and female, most of the
latter unveiled. As all have to cross the ford where the
river is some inches above a man's knees, the effect is
grotesque, and even the women have no objection to dis-
playing their round white limbs in the clear water. The
ladies of the Governor's andarun sent word that food
and quarters had been prepared for me since noon, but I
excused myself on the plea of excessive fatigue. This
message was followed by a visit from the Governor's foster-
mother, an unveiled jolly woman, of redundant proportions,
wearing remarkably short petticoats, which displayed limbs
like pillars. A small woman attended her, and a number
of Kurd men, superbly dressed, and wearing short two-
edged swords, with ebony hilts ornamented with incrusta-
tions of very finely-worked filigree silver. These weapons
are made here. The lady has been to Mecca, and evinces
much more general intelligence than the secluded women.
She took a dagger from one of the attendants, and showed
me with much go how the thrusts which kill are made.

All were much amused with JSoy's gentle ways. He
had been into the town for supplies, and, as usual, asked
me to take off his bridle by coming up and putting his
ears under my chin, when, if I do not attend to him at
once, he lifts his head and gives me a gentle push, or rubs
his nose against my cheek. The men admired his strong,
clean limbs, which are his best points. Last night I
heard snoring very near me, and thinking that the watch-
men were sleeping under the flys, I went out to waken
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