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210                      JOURNEYS IN PERSIA             LETTER xxv

them, and found the big beast stretched out fast asleep
in the verandah of the tent, having retired there for
warmth. I accompanied my visitors to the ford, followed
by Boy, to their great amusement, as it was to mine to
see the stout lady mount nimbly on a Kurd's back, and
ride him " pickaback " through the water !

This has not been a comfortable afternoon. The
Governor has been out all day hunting, and his deputy
either at the bath or a religious function. Milk can only
be got in the Jewish quarter, where smallpox is prevail-
ing ; the Sanak water is too foul to be used for tea, and
no man will go two miles so late for a pure supply.
Johannes, who is most disobedient as well as incompetent,
has brought no horse food, and poor Boy has been calling
for it for two hours, coming into my tent, shaking the
bag in which the barley is usually kept, and actually
in his hunger clearing the table of melons and grapes.
These, however, are only among the very small annoyances
of travelling.

9 P.M.—The Governor has returned, and has sent a
guard of twenty-five soldiers, with an invitation to visit
the ladies before I start to-morrow.                  I. L. B.