322 JOURNEYS IN KURDISTAN LETTER sxix pillars, only lighted up the central group, consisting of Sulti and Marta in the highest place, the English priest in his turban and cassock, the grotesque visage of Shlimon the Jester, and the beautiful face and figure and splendid dress of Ishai the Patriarch's brother, as proud as proud can be, but sitting among the retainers of his ancient house playing on a musical instrument, the hereditary familiarity of serf and lord blending with such expressions of respect as " your foot is on my eyes," and the favourite asseveration, " by the Head of Mar Shimun." The black- ness in which the lofty roof was lost, the big ovens with their busy groups, the rows of men, half-seen in the dim- ness, lounging on natural ledges of rock, and the uphill floor with its uncouth plenishings, made up such a picture as the feudalism of our own middle ages might have presented. My letterl from the Turkish Ambassador at Tihran was sent to Julamerik this afternoon, and has produced another zaptieh, and an apology! I. L. B. 1 Translation of a letter given to the author by His Excellency the Turkish Ambassador to the Court of Tihran. " Among the honoured of English ladies is Mrs. Bishop. On this tour of travel she has a letter of recommendation from the Exalted Government of England, issued by the English Embassy in Tihran, and earnest request is made that in her passage through the Imperial Territory she be well protected. As far as ssaptiehs are necessary let them be given for her safety, all necessary provision for her most comfortable travel be per- fected, and all her requests from the High Government of the Osmanlis be met. " That all courtesy and attention be shown to this distinguished lady, this letter is given from the Embassy at Tihran." As various statements purporting to be narratives of attacks made upon me in Turkey have appeared in Russian and other papers, I take this op- portunity of saying that they are devoid of any foundation. I was never robbed while in the dominion of His Majesty the Sultan: courtesy was shown me by all the Turkish officials between the Persian frontier and Erzerum, and efficient escorts of steady and respectful zaptiehs were readily supplied.