LETTER xxxm THE TURBEHS OF AKHLAT 363 form is circular. The sepulchre is a closed chamber, with another above it open half-way round on the lake side, and a colonnade of very beautiful pillars supports round arches, above which are five exquisitely-carved friezes. The whole is covered with a conical roof of carved slabs of red stone, under which runs an Arabic inscription. Each of these buildings is decorated with ornament in the Saracenic style, of a richness and beauty of which only photography could give any adequate representation. Close to the finest of these turbehs is an old mosque with a deeply-arched entrance, over which is a recess, panelled and carved like one in the finest of the rock chambers. The lintels of the door are deco- rated with stone cables. Mirza counted more than 900 monoliths. As I sketched the finest of these beautiful mausoleums some mollahs came up and objected to the proceeding, and Moussa urged me to desist, as the remainder of the march was " very dangerous," he said, and must be " got over " in full daylight. This phrase " very dangerous," as used in Armenia, means that there is a serious risk of having the baggage and horses driven off, and the men stripped to a single garment. Such things are happening constantly, and even Moussa ceases his joking when he speaks of them.1 The remaining march was over great solitary sweeps of breezy upland to Pikhruz, an Armenian village of 100 houses, which has an in- telligent Protestant teacher with sixty boys in his school. 1 Akhlat was a place of immense importance in ancient days, and its his- tory epitomises the vicissitudes of Armenia; Abnlfeda, Bakani, Deguignes, Ritter, and Pinlay in his History of Gfreece are among the best-known authorities on its history, and Mr. Tozer in his work on Turkish Armenia, p. 318, etc., gives an interesting popular sketch of the way in. which it was conquered and reconquered by Saracens, Greeks, Kurds, Turks, Khoarasmians and Georgians, till eventually, the Turks reconquered it from the Kurds. Its ancient Armenian name of Khelat is altogether un- known to its present inhabitants.