SOUTHERN FRANCE AGAIN day alone. On the following Saturday the Countess said,cc The motor will come round to-morrow morn- ing and we will have lunch at Moulins. There is a fine cathedral and a museum and the food and wine are very cheap and good in the town." As we left Vichy I noticed that the whole population seemed to be leaving also. The Countess then ex- plained that as the clinics were shut on Saturdays and the patients were free to do as they liked, feeling very hungry and well, they took any kind of conveyance to the country, where they ate and drank to their heart's content. We visited, first the cathedral, which has a very fine picture in it, and then the museum and afterwards a little hotel, where we had a magnificent dinner and very good wine. I think the whole bill came only to fifty francs. We stayed at Vichy for a week and then started for the South. It was a most interesting voyage for me, as the Countess had studied architecture at the Sorbonne and knew a great deal about French history and painting. We spent the night at St. Nectaire in Auvergne; there is a most beautiful twelfth-century church, where, inside, the pillars are painted and in a state of almost perfect preservation; also a twelfth-century statue of Saint Baudime. He is a most beautiful and rather terrifying figure and had had an adventurous career, having been stolen several times from his safe by robbers. We had lunch at le Puy, which is a most strange place. There are volcanic rocks, which are very high and steep, sticking out of the town; on these rocks are • "':'. '... ' ..'•'.";:.' 251 ;;.....'-: ••••- •••'•• ""'"' '•'•-'