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UNITED  STATES 


EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


* 


* 


■  ■ 

■ 


•  • 


■ 


<3 Mil mMl©  WHUJSIS© 

COMMANDER,  U,  S,  N. 


Painted  l>y  T.  Sully. 


11. W Dodson  Sc. 


NARRATIVE 


ID 

Wb$ 


W 

v, 


5b 


OF  THE 

UNITED  STATES 

•  «  6 


EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

DURING  THE  YEARS 

1888,  1889,  1840,  1841,  1842. 


v  A 


CHARLES  WILKES,  U.  S.  N., 

*  6 

COMMANDER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION, 

MEMBER  OF  THE  AMERICAN  PHILOSOPHICAL  SOCIETY,  ETC. 


IN  FIVE  VOLUMES,  AND  AN  ATLAS. 

Y  0  L.  I. 


PHILADELPHIA: 


ENTERED,  ACCORDING  TO  THE  ACT  OF  CONGRESS,  IN  THE  YEAR  1844, 


BY  CHARLES  WILKES,  U.  S.  N., 

IN  THE  clerk’s  OFFICE  OF  THE  DISTRICT  COURT  FOR  THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


C.  SHERMAN,  PRINTER, 

19  ST.  JAMES  STREET,  PHILADELPHIA. 


,  -<^oman 

,CJUN  20  1908  J 


CONTENTS 


OF  Y  0  L.  I. 


CHAPTER  I. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  UNITED  STATES— VOYAGE  TO  MADEIRA— ARRIVAL  AT  FUNCHAL 
—APPEARANCE  OF  MADEIRA  FROM  THE  SEA— LANDING  AT  FUNCHAL— VISIT  TO  THE 
CIVIL  AND  MILITARY  GOVERNORS— STREETS,  AND  MODE  OF  TRANSPORTATION— CRIMI¬ 
NALS  AND  PRISONS— VILLA  OF  CARVALHAL— CONVENT— RIDES  IN  MADEIRA— CURRAL  — 
VISIT  OF  SCIENTIFIC  GENTLEMEN  TO  SAN  VINCENTE— EXCURSION  TOWARDS  THE  EAST 
END  OF  THE  ISLAND— STORY  OF  ITS  DISCOVERY— POPULATION  OF  MADEIRA  — WINE  — 
GOVERNMENT— CHARACTER  OF  THE  INHABITANTS  — DRESS  — DWELLINGS  —  MODE  OF 
TRAVELLING  — EMPLOYMENTS  OF  THE  PEOPLE  —  WINE-MAKING  —  LOWER  CLASSES - 
ASCENT  OF  PICO  RUIVO  — NATURAL  HISTORY  —  QUINTA  OF  MR.  BEAN— SCHOONER  STAR 
SAVED  FROM  WRECK— DEPARTURE  FROM  MADEIRA . 3—26 


CHAPTER  II. 

SQUADRON  SAILS  FROM  MADEIRA —CURRENTS  —  SEARCH  FOR  SHOALS  AND  VIGIAS— 
ARRIVAL  AT  ST.  J AGO— APPEARANCE  OF  THE  ISLAND— TOWN  OF  PORTO  PRAYA— ITS 
POPULATION  — LANGUAGE— VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR  — PUBLIC  FOUNTAIN  —  MARKET- 
DRILL  OF  RECRUITS— DROUGHTS— CLIMATE— SLAVES— DRESS— DEPARTURE  FROM  PORTO 
PRAYA— FURTHER  SEARCH  FOR  SHOALS,  ETC.— ARRIVAL  AT  RIO  JANEIRO . . . 29—44 


VOL.  I. 


B 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  III. 

CITY  OF  SAN  SALVADOR  — ITS  IMPROVEMENT— ITS  PRESENT  CONDITION— CHURCHES— 
THE  MISERICORDIA  — FUNERALS  — EMPEROR’S  BIRTHDAY  —  AQUEDUCTS  —  GEOLOGICAL 
CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY  —  PUBLIC  GARDEN  —  MUSEUM  — BAY  AND  HARBOUR  — 
VEGETATION— BOTANIC  GARDEN— SLAVE  POPULATION— COFFEE-CARRIERS— RESEARCHES 
INTO  THE  NATIONS  OF  AFRICA— TREATMENT  OF  SLAVES  —  STREETS  OF  THE  CITY- 
SOCIETY— WHITE-JACKET  BALL  — ARRIVAL  OF  THE  RELIEF  — ASCENT  OF  THE  SUGAR 
LOAF— SURVEYS— DEFECTS  IN  THE  EQUIPMENT  OF  THE  SQUADRON— TRIP  TO  THE 
ORGAN  MOUNTAINS— JAUNT  TO  PIED ADE— CONCLUSION  OF  THE  SURVEYS  AND  OBSER¬ 
VATIONS— ASCENT  OF  THE  CORCOVADO . 47—78 


CHAPTER  IV. 

CHARACTER  OF  THE  BRAZILIANS— CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  EMPIRE— RULING  PARTY- 
ELECTIVE  REGENCY  — ADMINISTRATION  OF  JUSTICE— ELECTIVE  FRANCHISE— ARMY- 
NAVY— SCHOOLS— SLAVERY— FEELING  TOWARDS  FOREIGNERS— POPULATION— NATIONAL 
DEBT,  REVENUE  AND  EXPENDITURES  —  COMMERCE  —  EVENTS  IN  THE  SQUADRON  — 
DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO . 81-92 


CHAPTER  V. 

PASSAGE  TO  RIO  NEGRO  —  ARRIVAL  THERE  —  GUACHOS  —  EXCURSION  OF  THE  NATU¬ 
RALISTS— SALT  AND  SALT  LAKES— GOVERNMENT  AND  POPULATION— PRODUCTIONS — 
TARIFF— INDIANS— WANT  OF  ENTERPRISE— DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COUNTRY— RIVER  AND 
TIDES  — CLIMATE  — VEGETATION— TRADE  — HARBOUR— SQUADRON  DRIVEN  TO  SEA — 
DANGERS  IN  SURVEYING  —  CONVICT  SETTLEMENT  —  COMMUNICATION  WITH  BUENOS 
AYRES  —  DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO  NEGRO  — STATEN  LAND  —  STRAITS  OF  LE  MAIRE — 
APPEARANCE  OF  TERRA  DEL  FUEGO— ITS  HARBOUR— PARHELION— MIRAGE— MEETING 
WITH  THE  RELIEF— HER  DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO— CURRENT— RIO  PLATA— CAPE  RAZA— 
CAPE  ST.  JOSEPH— CAPE  THREE  POINTS—  DREDGING  —  BELLACO  ROCKS— CAPE  ST.  DIEGO 
—  GOOD  SUCCESS  BAY  —  CAPTAIN  KING’S  SAILING  DIRECTIONS  —  NATIVES  -  INTER¬ 
COURSE  WITH  THEM— BOTANY— GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION— NEW  ISLAND— ITS  POSITION 
—ARRIVAL  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR— EMPLOYMENTS . 95—120 


CONTENTS. 


Yll 


CHAPTER  VI. 

ORANGE  HARBOUR  — PLAN  OF  THE  SQUADRON’S  OPERATIONS  —  NATIVES  —  TIIETR 
APPEARANCE  —  THEIR  HUTS— ARRIVAL  OF  MORE  NATIVES  —  THEIR  TALENT  FOR 
MIMICKRY  —  VISIT  TO  THEIR  HUTS— THEIR  FOOD  — SOIL  NEAR  ORANGE  HARBOUR— 
TIDES-WHALES . 123—133 


CHAPTER  VII. 

DEPARTURE  OF  PORPOISE-WHALE  SHIP— HEIGHT  OF  WAVES— KING  GEORGE’S  ISLAND  — 
O’BRIEN’S  AND  ASPLAND’S  ISLANDS-PALMER’S  LAND— ADVENTURE  ISLETS— GALE— SEA¬ 
GULL  ORDERED  TO  RETURN  —  RETURN  OF  THE  PORPOISE  —  ELEPHANT  ISLAND  — GOOD 
SUCCESS  BAY  — BOAT  DETAINED  —  ATTEMPT  TO  RELIEVE  —  ACCIDENT  —  LIEUTENANT 
HARTSTEIN  —  GALE  —  FURTHER  ATTEMPT  TO  RELIEVE  THE  PARTY  —  PORPOISE  COM¬ 
PELLED  TO  PUT  TO  SEA— CAPE  ST.  DIEGO  — ANCHOR  OFF  IT— RETURN  TO  GOOD  SUCCESS 
BAY— PARTY  JOIN— THEIR  TRANSACTIONS  — LEAVE  GOOD  SUCCESS  BAY— NASSAU  BAY  — 
DARK  NIGHT  — FIND  OURSELVES  AMONG  KELP  —  ANCHOR  —  NATIVES  — REACH  ORANGE 
HARBOUR  — ALL  WELL  — SEA-GULL  — DECEPTION  ISLAND  —  PENGUINS— SEA  LEOPARD  — 
TEMPERATURE— VISIT  TO  CRATER  — FORCE  OF  WIND  — CAPTAIN  SMILEY— DEPARTURE- 
ARRIVAL  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR  — SENT  IN  SEARCH  OF  LAUNCH— LOSS  OF  THAT  BOAT- 
RETURN  OF  SEA-GULL  — AGAIN  SAILS  FOR  WOLLASTON’S  ISLAND  — BAILY  ISLAND  — SEA¬ 
GULL  HARBOUR-ARRIVAL  OF  FLYING-FISH . 137—150 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

DEPARTURE  OF  PEACOCK  AND  FLYING-FISH  —  GALE  —  RETURN  TO  ANCHOR  — FINAL 
DEPARTURE— DIEGO  RAMIERES— GALE— SEPARATION— DEFECTIVE  OUTFITS  OF  PEACOCK- 
CURRENT— GALE— ACCIDENT  TO  WILLIAM  STEWART— HIS  RESCUE— DEATH— FIRST  ICE¬ 
BERG— DIP  OBSERVATIONS— WEATHER-ICEBERGS  AND  SNOW  —  GALE  —  SITU ATION  OF 
PEACOCK— BIRDS— AURORA  AUSTRALIS— DEEP  SEA  SOUNDING— FOG— PETRELS —  BREAK¬ 
ING  ASUNDER  OF  ICEBERGS— DENSE  FOG— DANGERS  — SNOW-STORM  — OBSERVATIONS— 
FLYING-FISH  REJOINS  —  LIEUTENANT  WALKER’S  REPORT  —  SITUATION  OF  VESSELS— 
COUNCIL  OF  OFFICERS— CAPTAIN  HUDSON  RESOLVES  TO  RETURN— WEATHER— AURORA- 
GALE— SHIP  ON  FIRE  —  FLYING-FISH  DESPATCHED  FOR  ORANGE  HARBOUR  —  GALE— 


Vll  1 


CONTENTS. 


v 


ACCIDENT  TO  ROYAL  HOPE— PHOSPHORESCENCE  OF  SEA  — WHALE  SHIP— ARRIVAL  OF 
PEACOCK  AT  VALPARAISO  — FIND  THE  RELIEF  —  LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT  LONG’S 
INSTRUCTIONS— DIFFICULTIES  ENCOUNTERED— GALE— TOWER  ROCKS— ANCHOR  UNDER 
NOIR  ISLAND-DANGEROUS  POSITION— LOSS  OF  ANCHORS— AWFUL  NIGHT— PART  CABLES 
—NARROW  ESCAPE— CONDUCT  OF  COMMANDANT  AND  OFFICERS— COUNCIL— DETERMINA¬ 
TION  OF  IT— PROCEED  TO  VALPARAISO— ARRIVAL  OFF  THE  PORT— COMMANDANT  LOCKE, 
H.  B.  M.  SHIP  FLY— RELIEF  ANCHORS— ARRIVAL  OF  FLYING-FISH  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR- 
PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE  — WINDS  — TEMPERATURE  — BAROMETRICAL  RANGE— 
CLIMATE-ANIMALS-WOLF-BIRDS-ORANGE  HARBOUR-VINCENNES  AND  PORPOISE  TAKE 
THEIR  DEPARTURE— SEA-GULL  AND  FLYING-FISH  TO  AWAIT  THE  RELIEF— ANCHOR  IN 
SCAPENHAM  BAY— GALE— ORANGE  BAY— FINAL  DEPARTURE— VINCENNES  AND  PORPOISE 
PART  COMPANY— ALBATROSS  — DYSENTERY— ISLAND  OF  MOCHA— TRADE  WINDS— VIN¬ 
CENNES’  ARRIVAL  AT  VALPARAISO— ARRIVAL  OF  PORPOISE  AND  FLYING-FISH— HEAVY 
GALE— SEA-GULL  LAST  SEEN— WHALER . 153—166 


CHAPTER  IX. 

APPROACH  THE  COAST— CORDILLERAS— VISIT  TO  AUTHORITIES  OF  VALPARAISO— LAND¬ 
ING  OF  INSTRUMENTS  —  CUSTOM-HOUSE  OFFICERS  — MR.  COOD  —  OBSERVATORY  —  G. 
G.  HOBSON,  ESQ.  —  NORTHERS  —  PERCEPTIBLE  CHANGE  IN  THE  BAY  —  VALPARAISO — 
DESCRIPTION  OF  IT— ITS  ORDER  AND  GOVERNMENT  — TRAIT  OF  CHILIA NS  —  POLICE  — 
THEIR  SIGNAL— SHOPS  —  AMUSEMENTS  —  CHING ANO  —  DANCES  —  SAMACUECA  —  HIGHER 
CLASSES— DRESS  — TASTE  FOR  MUSIC  —  FONDNESS  FOR  FLOWERS  — GENERAL  PRIETO 
—HONOURS  PAID  HIM— BALL— DESCRIPTION  OF  IT . 169—177 


CHAPTER  X. 

JOURNEY  INTO  THE  INTERIOR— BILOCHES— TRAVELLING— CASA  BLANCA  —  GEOLOGICAL 
FORMATION— CURACOVI— HEATH  ABOVE  THE  SEA— CUESTA  DE  ZAPATA  — CUESTA  DEL 
PRADA— ROADS— TRANSPORTATION  OF  GOODS— BEGGARS-PLAIN  OF  MAYPO— CORDILLE¬ 
RAS— ST.  JAGO  —  MINT  —  LIBRARY  —  AMUSEMENTS  —  FASHIONS  —  MARKET  —  CLIMATE  — 
EXCURSION  TO  THE  CORDILLERAS— MOUNTAIN  SCENERY-SNOW— GUANACOES— HEAT- 
RETURN  TO  ST.  JAGO— MAYPOCHO— JOURNEY  TO  SAN  FELIPE— QUILLOTA-TUPONGATI 
PEAK  —  DIKES  —  EVANGELISTO  CELIDONO  —  FARM-HOUSE  —  CATCHING  WILD  HORSES  — 
RANCHO— ENTERTAINMENT— ARRIVAL  AT  SAN  FELIPE  DE  ACONCAGUA— MR.  NEWMAN’S— 
MR.  CHASE— TOWN  OF  SAN  FELIPE— CHICHA  AND  AGUARDIENTE— THEIR  MANUFACTURE 
-AGRICULTURAL  IMPLEMENTS-VISIT  THE  COPPER  MINES— MODES  OF  WORKING  THEM— 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


THEIR  SITUATION— TRANSPORTATION  OF  ORES— WAGES— TEMPERANCE  REGULATIONS— 
LAKE  ON  THE  HIGH  CORDILLERAS— COPPER  ORES-RETURN  TO  SAN  FELIPE— KINDNESS 
OF  MR.  NEWMAN  AND  LADY— CELIDONO— QUILLOTA—  RETURN  TO  VALPARAISO— EARTH¬ 
QUAKES— PROTESTANT  CHURCH— LIBERALITY  OF  PRIESTHOOD— ORACION— COMMERCE- 
EXPORTS— IMPORTS— FOREIGN  VESSELS— POPULATION— COLLEGES— CONGRESS— IMPROVE¬ 
MENTS  IN  PROGRESS— REVENUE— NATIONAL  DEBT— CLIMATE— FRUITS— ADMINISTRATION 
—  EXECUTIVE  —  SENATE  —  HOUSE  OF  DEPUTIES— MILITIA— ARMY— NAVY— G.  G.  HOBSON, 
ESQ.,  U.  S.  CONSUL  — LIEUTENANT  CRAVEN  — HIS  GALLANT  CONDUCT— CAPTAIN  ISAAC 
M’KEEVER — U.  S.  SHIP  FALMOUTH— FLYING-FISH— GALE— SEA-GULL  LAST  SEEN— HER  LOSS 
—PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  JAMES  W.  E.  REID— PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  FREDERICK  A.  BACON  — 
ADMINISTRATION  OF  GOVERNMENT  OF  CHILI . 181—214 


CHAPTER  XI. 

WANT  OF  CORRECT  HISTORICAL  RECORDS— O’HIGGINS  DECLARED  SUPREME  DICTATOR— 
RESIGNS  IN  1823— COUNCIL  OF  STATE  APPOINTED— GENERAL  FREYRE  LANDS  AT  VALPA¬ 
RAISO— ARREST  OF  O’HIGGINS  —  HIS  RELEASE  —  GENERAL  RAMON  FREYRE  ASSUMES 
THE  GOVERNMENT— RETIRES  TO  PRIVATE  LIFE— ADMIRAL  BLANCO  PRESIDENT— BLANCO 
RESIGNS— SUCCEEDED  BY  VICE-PRESIDENT— HIS  RESIGNATION— FREYRE  AGAIN  CHOSEN 
PRESIDENT— FREYRE  RESIGNS— PRIETO  BECOMES  PRESIDENT— RESIGNS— PRESIDENT  OF 
THE  SENATE  ACTS— ELECTION  HELD— PRIETO  ELECTED— REFUSES  TO  SERVE— VICUNEA 
PRESIDENT  OF  SENATE  —  TROUBLES  —  JUNTA  APPOINTED— CIVIL  WAR— ABANDONMENT 
OF  THE  CAPITAL— FREYRE  CALLED  IN— JOINS  THE  PRESIDENT’S  PARTY  — BATTLE  OF 
LIRCAI,  APRIL,  1830— DEFEAT  OF  FREYRE— HIS  BANISHMENT  TO  PERU— NEW  ELECTION- 
DON  FRANCISCO  TAGLE  RETURNED  AS  PRESIDENT— OVALLE  AS  VICE-PRESIDENT— BOTH 
RESIGN  —  PRESIDENT  OF  SENATE  AGAIN  ACTS  — NEW  ELECTION  —  GENERAL  PRIETO 
ELECTED,  JULY,  1831— STATE  OF  THE  COUNTRY— HIS  ADMINISTRATION— DIEGO  PORTALES 
—SYSTEM  OF  REFORM— MILITIA  SYSTEM— ESTABLISHES  PUBLIC  CREDIT— CIVIL  RULE- 
TRANSACTIONS  WITH  PERU— RATIFICATION  OF  TREATY,  AND  RECEPTION  OF  MINISTER 
—CIVIL  WAR  IN  PERU  — DEFEAT  OF  SALAVERRY  — NEW  ORGANIZATION  OF  PERUVIAN 
GOVERNMENT  —  RUPTURE  BETWEEN  CHILI  AND  PERU  — SECRET  EXPEDITION  UNDER 
GENERAL  FREYRE— INTELLIGENCE  OF  IT  RECEIVED  IN  CHILI— ACTIVITY  OF  GOVERN¬ 
MENT-CAPTURE  OF  FREYRE  — HIS  SECOND  BANISHMENT  —  POPULARITY  OF  THE 
ADMINISTRATION  —  SEIZURE  OF  PERUVIAN  VESSELS  —  SUSPENSION  OF  HOSTILITIES  — 
CONVENTION— CHILI  REFUSES  TO  RATIFY  TPIE  PROCEEDINGS— CHILI  SENDS  HER  FLEET 
—CHILI  DECLARES  WAR  —  EXPEDITION  ORGANIZED— DECREE  OF  PRESIDENT  PRIETO— 
EXPEDITION  FITTED  OUT  UNDER  ADMIRAL  BLANCO— TROOPS  QUARTERED  AT  QUILLOTA 
—PORTALES’  INSPECTION  OF  TROOPS  — HIS  ARREST  —  VIDAURRE’S  MUTINY— ACTA  OF 
OFFICERS  — NEWS  REACHES  VALPARAISO  —  CONSTERNATION  —  CONDUCT  OF  MILITIA— 
VIDAURRE’S  DEMANDS— PORTALES’  NOBLE  CONDUCT— VIDAURRE’S  ATTACK  ON  VALPA- 


VOL.  I, 


C 


X 


CONTENTS. 


RAISO  — HIS  DEFEAT  AND  FLIGHT  —  PORTALES’  DEATH  —  VIDAURRE  CAPTURED  AND 
BROUGHT  TO  VALPARAISO— TRIAL  AND  EXECUTION— EXPEDITION  SAILS  TO  PERU— ITS 
FAILURE— TREATY  OF  PAUCARPATA— EXPEDITION  RETURNS— BLANCO  DEPRIVED  OF  HIS 
COMMAND— BULNES— NEW  EXPEDITION— ITS  DEPARTURE . 217—232 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PORPOISE  SAILS— ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS— DIFFICULTIES  OF  LEAVING  THE  BAY 
—REGULATIONS  OF  PORT  BADLY  OBSERVED— CONDUCT  OF  THE  CAPTAIN  OF  HAMBURG 
VESSEL  — DEPARTURE  — PART  COMPANY  WITH  PEACOCK  AND  TENDER  —  EVENTS  ON 
PASSAGE  TO  CALLAO— ZODIACAL  LIGHTS— MAKE  THE  COAST  OF  PERU— TEMPERATURE 
OF  WATER— ENTER  BOUQUERON  PASSAGE— ANCHOR  AT  SAN  LORENZO  —  GEOLOGICAL 
STRUCTURE  OF  ISLAND  —  BURYING  -  GROUND  —  ARRIVAL  OF  FALMOUTH  —  CAPTAIN 
M’KEEVER— HIS  KINDNESS— DESERTERS— CONDUCT  OF  CREW  OF  RELIEF— PUNISHMENT 
—EFFECTUAL  SUPPRESSION  OF  SUCH  CONDUCT  —  COURT -MARTIAL  —  JUSTIFICATION  — 
CHANGE  OF  ANCHORAGE  TO  CALLAO— HEIGHT  OF  LIMA— MOLE— CALLAO— VESSELS  IN 
PORT— CASTLE— DESCRIPTION  OF  HOUSES— RELIGIOUS  PRACTICES  — MARKET  — REVIEW 
OF  TROOPS— OLD  CALLAO— EFFECTS  OF  EARTHQUAKE— VAULTS  FOR  DEPOSITING  THE 
DEAD— POPULATION  OF  CALLAO— FOURTH  OF  JULY— ROAD  TO  LIM A  —  DEVAST ATIONS— 
BELLA  VISTA  —  APPROACH  TO  LIMA  —  ENTRANCE  AND  APPEARANCE  —  ITS  PLAN — 
AMUSEMENTS -SAYA  AND  MANTA  —  ITS  PRIVILEGES -DESCRIPTION  OF  IT— HOUSES— 
PORTALES  OR  ARCADES— PALACE— FOUNTAIN— CATHEDRAL— CRYPT— NOVEL  HEARSE- 
MARKET— CONVENT  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO— LIBRARY— SIGNATURE  OF  PIZARRO— FOUNDING 
OF  LIMA— THEATRE  — NAVAL  SCHOOL  — CLASSES  OF  NATIVES —POPULATION  —  NEWS¬ 
PAPERS— HAND-BILLS— FESTIVAL-CORPUS  CHRISTI— MR.  MATHEWS— MANUFACTORIES— 
FESTIVAL  OF  ST.  JOHN’S— AMANCAES  —  CELEBRATION  —  EARTHQUAKES— EFFECTS  PRO¬ 
DUCED— GATEWAY,  NAVAL  SCHOOL— CLIMATE— RAIN— MEAN  TEMPERATURE— HEALTH— 
RIMAC— IRRIGATION— HARVEST— CHILIAN  ARMY— STATE  OF  THE  COUNTRY— MANNER  OF 
RECRUITING  THE  ARMY  —  TREATMENT  OF  SLAVES— DEATH  OF  BENJAMIN  HOLDEN  — 
SMALL-POX— PRECAUTIONS  ADOPTED . 235—258 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

A  PARTY  FOR  THE  INTERIOR  —  PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  JOURNEY  —  PASSPORTS  —  MR. 
BIGGS  — DEPARTURE  — EFFECT  OF  OFFICIAL  PAPERS— FACE  OF  COUNTRY  — RUINS  OF 
INCA  TOWNS  — PONCHORUA  — CABALLEROS  — CONVOY  OF  SILVER  —  ACCOMMODATIONS  — 
EARTHQUAKE— ROUTE  UP  THE  VALLEY  OF  CAXAVILLO-FACE  OF  COUNTRY— ST.  ROSA 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


DE  QUIVI— YASO— OBRAJILLO— DIFFICULTIES  IN  PROCURING  MULES— BEAUTY  OF  SITUA¬ 
TION  —  LLAMAS  —  RIOTERS  —  PLUNDERING  OF  INHABITANTS  —  CULNAI  —  LA  VINDA  — 
VEGETATION— MULETEERS  ENCOUNTERED— REACH  THE  CREST  OF  THE  CORDILLERAS— 
CASA  CANCHA— ITS  ACCOMMODATIONS— COOKING  RANGE— SICKNESS  OF  PARTY— SNOW¬ 
STORM  —  ALPAMARCA  —  COMPANY  OF  PERUVIANS  —  THEIR  ATTENTIONS— PROCESS  OF 
AMALGAMATION  OF  ORE— MR.  BEVAN— VISIT  TO  THE  MINE— FACE  OF  THE  MOUNTAIN- 
ROAD— BANOS— HOT  SPRING— BEAUTY  OF  VALLEY— VEGETATION— THREATENED  ATTACK 
OF  A  CONDOR  — PORTRAIT  — INCIDENTS  RELATING  TO  IT  — DESCRIPTION  OF  BANOS  — ITS 
HABITATIONS— STATE  OF  HORSES— RETURN  TO  CASA  CANCHA— CHILIAN  CONVOY  FROM 
PASCO  — PASCO— MINES— VEINS  OF  ORE— NUMBER  OF  MINES  IN  OPERATION— LAWS  IN 
RELATION  TO  SILVER  MINED— DUTIES— HILL  OF  RACO— NEW  SPECULATIONS  IN  1840- 
DIFFICULTIES  IN  PURCHASING  MINES  —  THE  POLITICAL  STATE  OF  THE  COUNTRY 
ADVERSE  TO  THIS  BUSINESS  —  TEMPERATURE  —  BEAUTY  OF  SITUATION  OF  CASA 
CANCHA  — THEIR  DEPARTURE  ON  THEIR  RETURN  — LINE  OF  PERPETUAL  SNOW- 
AMMONITE  —  CHICRINE  —  TRAVELLING  PARTIES  —  FRENCHMAN  —  HIS  COMPLIMENTS  — 
CULNAI  —  CULTIVATION  —  HOSPITALITY  —  OBRAJILLO  —  ACCOMMODATIONS  —  WANT  OF 
GALLANTRY  —  GUIDES  —  SETTLEMENT  —  BRIDAL  PARTY  —  YASO  —  ROBBERY  — YANG  A  — 
HOSTESS— ANGELIT A— CABALLEROS— RETURN  TO  LIMA— BOTANICAL  REVIEW— GEOLOGI¬ 
CAL  CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY— FLYING-FISH  SENT  TO  PACHACAMAC— LANDING- 
TEMPLE— TOWN— TOMBS— THEIR  CONTENTS— EMBARKATION— RETURN  TO  CALLAO. 

261—291 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

SELF-AGGRANDIZEMENT  THE  OBJECT  OF  RULERS  — END  OF  REVOLUTIONARY  WAR — 
GENERAL  BOLIVAR  DICTATOR— HIS  AUTHORITY  CEASES-GENERAL  LA  MAR  ELECTED— 
GAMARRA’S  TREACHERY— LA  MAR  ARRESTED  AND  BANISHED— GAMARRA  AND  LAFUENTE 
ELECTED— ATTEMPTS  TO  SEIZE  LAFUENTE— HIS  ESCAPE— EXECUTION  OF  MAJOR  ROSEL— 
CONVENTION  CONVOKED  —  GAMARRA  RESIGNS  —  ORBEJOSO  ELECTED  —  REVOLUTION  BY 
BERMUDEZ  AND  GAMARRA— BERMUDEZ  CAPTURED— ORBEJOSO’S  AUTHORITY  RESTORED 

—  SALAVERRY  REVOLTS  —  DECLARES  HIMSELF  SUPREME  DICTATOR  —  UNITES  WITH 
GAMARRA— GAMARRA  DEFEATED— ARRESTED  BY  SALAVERRY  AND  BANISHED— SALA¬ 
VERRY  MARCHES  AGAINST  SANTA  CRUZ  —  BATTLE  OF  SOCA BA YA — SALAVERRY 
DEFEATED  —  TAKEN  PRISONER  —  TRIED  AND  SHOT  —  ORBEJOSO  REINSTATED— TREATY 
WITH  CHILI  NULLIFIED  —  SANTA  CRUZ’S  INTRIGUES  —  DISMEMBERMENT  OF  PERU — 
ASSEMBLY  OF  SICUANI— SANTA  CRUZ  NAMED  SUPREME  PROTECTOR— CONVENTION  OF 
HUARA  —  GENERAL  FREYRE  FITS  OUT  AN  EXPEDITION  —  CHILIAN  CONSUL-GENERAL 
EVADES  THE  EMBARGO— SEIZURE  OF  PERUVIAN  VESSELS— NEGOTIATION— CESSATION  OF 
HOSTILITIES  — INVASION  OF  ALTA  PERU  —  DISASTROUS  CAMPAIGN— TREATY  OF  PEACE- 
RETURN  OF  CHILIAN  ARMY— CHILIAN  GOVERNMENT  REFUSES  TO  RATIFY  THE  TREATY 

—  LEGION  OF  HONOUR  —  DISCONTENT  AT  SANTA  CRUZ’S  POLICY  — WAR  AGAIN  COM- 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


MENCED  —  EXPEDITION  FROM  CHILI  —  INVASION  OF  PERU  — BATTLE  OF  LIMA  — LIMA 
TAKEN  —  ORBEJOSO  ESCAPES  —  GAMARRA  NAMED  PRESIDENT  — SANTA  CRUZ  MARCHES 
UPON  LIMA— CHILIANS  EMBARK— LAND  AT  HUARA— PURSUED  BY  SANTA  CRUZ— BATTLE 
OF  YUNGAI  — SANTA  CRUZ  TOTALLY  DEFEATED  —  ESCAPES  TO  LIMA  —  THENCE  TO 
AREQUIPA— SEEKS  REFUGE  ON  BOARD  A  BRITISH  SHIP  OF  WAR— BULNES  SAILS  AGAIN 
FOR  CALLAO  —  DISEMBARKS  HIS  TROOPS  —  TAKES  POSSESSION  OF  LIMA  —  CONGRESS 
CONVOKED— GAMARRA  ELECTED  PRESIDENT— RESULTS  OF  BATTLE  OF  YUNGAI— BULNES 
WITH  HIS  ARMY  RETURNS  TO  CHILI  —  GAMARRA  GOES  TO  AID  BOLIVIA— HIS  FORCES 
ROUTED,  AND  HIMSELF  KILLED  —  CHARACTER  OF  BOLIVAR  —  LA  MAR  — GAMARRA — 
LAFUENTE— ORBEJOSO  —  SALAVERRY— SANTA  CRUZ— HIS  ACTS— COMMERCE— PERU  AND 
CHILI— IMPORTS— EXPORTS— TRADE  WITH  THE  UNITED  STATES . 295—315 


CHAPTER  XV. 

STORE-SHIP  RELIEF— EDWIN  BARTLETT,  ESQ.  — EDWARD  M’CALL,  ESQ.  —  DEPARTURE- 
CAPTAIN  M’KEEVER— PERUVIAN  BRIG— SMALL-POX— GENERAL  ORDER-PROPOSED  ROUTE 

—  CURRENTS  —  EXPERIMENTS  —  TEMPERATURE  —  ALEXANDER  OGLE  —  CLERMONT  ,  DE 
TONNERRE  — APPEARANCE  OF  IT— SURVEY  — NATIVES— JOHN  SAC  — DIFFICULTIES  WITH 
THE  NATIVES  —  LANDING  —  SERLE  ISLAND  —  HONDEN  —  SURVEYS  —  CORAL  ISLANDS  — 
VEGETATION  —  BIRDS,  ETC.—  DISAPPOINTMENT  ISLANDS  —  INHABITANTS  —  WYTOOHEE— 
OTOOHO  — TAIARO  — RARAKA—  LANDING— ONE-HANDED  CHIEF— HIS  VISIT  TO  THE  SHIP- 
INHABITANTS— CATCHING  FISH— LEAVE-TAKING— GALE— NARROW  ESCAPE  OF  PEACOCK- 
PORPOISE  DESPATCHED— VINCENNES  ISLAND— CRITICAL  POSITION  OF  TENDER— LANDING 

—  ARATICA  ISLAND— COMMUNICATION  WITH  ITS  INHABITANTS  —  LANDING  — VILLAGE- 

DESCRIPTION  OF  ISLAND  — FRESH  WATER  —  FOOD  —  TENDER  DESPATCHED  TO  KING 
GEORGE’S  GROUP— VINCENNES  AND  PEACOCK  DISCOVER  MANHII  AND  AHII  ISLAND- 
SURVEY  —  LANDING  —  OBSERVATIONS  —  NATIVES  —  DESERTER—  ECLIPSE  —  PEACOCK  DE- . 
SPATCHED  TO  RURICK  ISLAND  —  VINCENNES  PASSES  TO  NAIRSA  —  INHABITANTS  — 
KRUSENSTERN’S  ISLAND  —  METIA  ISLAND  — ITS  APPEARANCE  —  SURVEY  —  LANDING- 
NATIVES—  MISSIONARIES’  KINDNESS— COSTUMES— ASCEND  THE  ISLAND— VEGETATION — 
APPEARANCE  OF  THE  ISLAND— DEPARTURE— ARRIVAL  AT  TAHITI— ANCHOR  IN  MATA- 
VAI  BAY— OBSERVATIONS  ON  POINT  VENUS-PROCEEDINGS  OF  PORPOISE— PROCEEDINGS 
OF  PEACOCK— ARUTUA  — SURVEY  — NAIRSA  OR  DEAN’S  ISLAND— CORAL  BLOCKS— METIA 
ISLAND  — OBSERVATIONS  — TETUAROA  — FLYING-FISH  — TIOKEA  AND  OURA— HISTORY  OF 
PAUMOTU  GROUP— CHARACTER  OF  ITS  INHABITANTS— POPULATION . 319—359 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  Expedition,  a  narrative  of  tire  operations  of  which  is  now  laid 
before  the  public,  was  the  first,  and  is  still  the  only  one  fitted  out  by 
national  munificence  for  scientific  objects,  that  has  ever  left  our  shores. 
It  would,  therefore,  appear  proper  that  a  more  minute  account  of  its 
outfit  should  be  given,  than  could  be  expected  of  one  despatched  by 
an  older  nation.  This  is  more  particularly  the  case,  as  a  great  part  of 
the  difficulties  it  had  to  encounter,  occurred  previously  to  its  sailing. 
I  would  not,  however,  have  the  reader  to  believe  that  I  intend  to  enter 
into  details  of  transactions  of  which,  perhaps,  no  one  knows  the  origin, 
or  to  speculate  on  the  causes  that  operated  to  prevent  its  sailing  within 
a  reasonable  time  after  the  passage  of  the  Act  of  Congress  directing 
it  to  be  undertaken. 

The  command  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  devolved  upon  me,  by 
orders  from  the  Hon.  Mahlon  Dickerson,  then  Secretary  of  the  Navy, 
on  the  20th  March,  1838.  At  that  time,  great  confusion  existed  in  its 
organization.  It  is  unnecessary,  and  would  be  out  of  place  here,  to 
enter  into  its  previous  history.  It  is  sufficient  to  refer  to  the  fact, 
that  it  had  already  been  denounced  as  an  entire  and  complete  failure, 
and  that  I  was  instructed  to  organize  it  anew. 

Whatever  others  are  disposed  to  think,  I  am  inclined  to  believe, 
that  the  originating,  getting  up,  and  getting  off  a  first  National  Expe- 


VOL.  I. 


D 


XIV 


INTRODUCTION. 


dition,  is  a  work  of  no  small  difficulty,  and  this  is  much  increased 
by  the  public  thinking,  talking  of,  and  interfering  too  much  with 
it.  I  felt  this  myself,  although  it  did  not  cause  me  much  diffi¬ 
culty.  The  successive  resignations  of  the  different  officers  who 
had  been  appointed  to  the  command,  led  every  body  to  look  upon  it 
with  disgust,  and,  in  consequence,  my  road  was  clear,  or  comparatively 
unembarrassed.  The  very  state  of  things  that  brought  the  Expedition 
into  general  disrepute,  was  of  great  advantage  to  me,  for  I  was  left 
to  perform  my  duties  unmolested.  One  of  the  difficulties  I  had  to 
encounter,  was  to  make  a  selection  from  the  numerous  articles  pro¬ 
vided,  and  this  was  a  work  of  no  ordinary  kind.  They  may  have 
been  all  useful,  and  perhaps  necessary  for  a  larger  Squadron ;  but  if 
all  had  been  embarked,  every  vessel  of  the  Squadron  would  have  been 
filled.  Every  expense  that  could  be  lavished  on  its  equipment  had 
been  incurred.  One  rule  of  action  soon  brought  me  to  dispose  of  the 
whole :  this  was  the  capacity  to  stow  them ;  and  parts  of  each  were 
accordingly  selected  for  the  new  order  of  things. 

On  the  20th  of  April,  I  was  informed  that  the  vessels  appointed  for 
this  service  were  the  sloops  of  war  Vincennes  and  Peacock,  the  brig 
Porpoise,  and  store-ship  Relief.  The  tenders  Sea-Gull  and  Flying- 
Fish  were  subsequently  added. 

The  Relief  was  the  only  one  of  the  vessels  that  had  belonged  to  the 
original  Squadron. 

On  this  reduction  of  force,  it  became  necessary  to  change  the 
organization,  not  only  in  point  of  numbers,  but  also  to  bring  the 
officers  into  more  intimate  connexion  with  the  scientific  duties. 

This  was  done  by  placing  all  those  departments  that  in  any  way 
appertained  or  belonged  to  our  profession  under  my  direction,  with 
officers  of  the  navy  for  assistants.  The  size  and  accommodation  of 
the  vessels  naturally  led  to  the  reduction  of  those  departments  that 
were  placed  under  the  corps  of  civilians,  including  naturalists  as  well 
as  artists.  As  many  of  these  were  taken  as  could  be  accommodated. 
The  selection  was  made  with  much  deliberation,  and  with  great 
impartiality.  Reference  was  had  to  the  departments  in  which  results 
were  most  to  be  expected,  and  most  desired  by  the  country.  The 


INTRODUCTION. 


XV 


only  new  one  added  was  the  Horticulturist  and  Assistant-Botanist, 
Mr.  Brackenridge. 

After  the  20th  of  April,  every  exertion  was  made  to  forward  the 
various  outfits.  By  the  7th  July,  the  Vincennes  and  Peacock  were 
taken  charge  of,  and  dropped  down  between  the  forts  at  Norfolk, 
and  it  was  determined  that  the  Squadron  should  rendezvous  in  Hamp¬ 
ton  Roads.  On  the  following  day,  the  seamen  were  transferred  from 
the  Macedonian,  which  had  been  the  flag-ship  under  the  original 
organization.  I  felt  some  solicitude  about  the  crews.  They  had  been 
a  long  time  shipped,  and  had  manifested  their  discontent  in  a  letter 
addressed  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  in  which  they  objected  to 
being  transferred  to  a  younger  and  new  set  of  officers.  The  plan  I 
adopted  was  at  once  to  send  them  on  shore  on  liberty,  and  thus  show 
entire  confidence  in  them.  To  my  great  surprise,  they  returned,  to  a 
man,  showing  that  no  disposition  adverse  to  the  service  existed  among 
them,  and  that  the  bad  feeling  was  nothing  more  than  what  might 
naturally  be  expected  to  result  from  a  long  confinement  on  board  of  a 
ship,  in  sight  of  their  homes,  and  the  constant  disappointment  they 
had  met  with  in  a  delayed  departure.  From  this  circumstance,  and 
the  prospect  of  no  further  detention,  their  spirits  revived,  and  great 
activity  prevailed  in  all  the  departments  to  forward  the  preparations. 
All  the  instruments  had  been  brought  from  New  York  in  the  Mace¬ 
donian,  under  care  of  Lieutenant  Carr.  Part  of  them,  including  the 
Chronometers,  had  been  landed  at  the  Naval  Asylum,  where  a 
Portable  Transit  had  been  put  up,  for  rating  them.  The  instruments 
appertaining  to  Magnetism  and  the  Pendulums  were  carried  to  Wash¬ 
ington,  to  make  the  necessary  experiments. 

The  depot  of  charts  and  instruments  on  Capitol  Hill,  was  selected 
to  make  the  series  of  observations  at.  These  occupied  my  own  time 
until  sailing. 

On  the  26th  of  July,  Martin  Van  Buren,  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Paulding,  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  and 
Mr.  Poinsett,  Secretary  of  War,  did  us  the  honour  to  visit  the  Vin¬ 
cennes.  On  this  occasion,  and  the  only  one  during  the  continuance  of 
my  command,  a  salute  was  fired,  (none  of  the  instruments  had  then 


XVI 


INTRODUCTION. 


been  embarked,)  by  all  the  vessels,  and  the  yards  were  manned.  This 
produced  a  good  effect  on  all,  for  it  showed  ns  that  a  watchful  eye  was 
kept  over  us,  and  that  much  interest  was  felt  in  the  undertaking. 
This  visit  formed  an  epoch  to  which  I  often  heard  reference  made 
during  the  cruise.  Few  are  able  to  estimate  the  feelings  of  satisfac¬ 
tion  that  such  acts  occasion  to  those  engaged  in  undertakings  like  this. 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  give  a  description  of  the  vessels  that  com¬ 
posed  the  Squadron. 

The  Vincennes  was  a  sloop  of  war,  of  seven  hundred  and  eighty 
tons,  originally  single-decked,  but  in  consequence  of  the  intended 
cruise,  a  light  deck  was  put  on  her  for  the  protection  of  the  men,  and 
to  afford  more  room.  The  accommodations  thus  became  those  of  a 
small  frigate. 

The  Peacock  was  of  smaller  size,  a  sloop  of  war  of  six  hundred  and 
fifty  tons,  originally  built  for  this  service  in  1828,  with  a  deck  like  that 
of  the  Vincennes.  She  had  made  two  cruises  previous  to  her  sailing 
in  1838. 

The  Porpoise,  a  gun-brig  of  two  hundred  and  thirty  tons.  The 
experience  I  had  had  in  this  vessel  induced  me  to  ask  for  an  altera¬ 
tion,  which  was  made,  and  added  much  to  her  safety,  as  well  as 
increased  her  accommodations.  This  was  to  build  a  poop-cabin  and 
a  forecastle  on  her  deck. 

The  tenders  Sea-Gull  and  Flying-Fish  were  New  York  pilot- 
boats.  The  former  had  been  known  as  the  New  Jersey,  of  one  hun¬ 
dred  and  ten  tons ;  the  latter  as  the  Independence,  of  ninety-six  tons. 
They  were  purchased  on  the  3d  of  August.  Their  masts,  sails,  &c., 
were  reduced,  and  their  outfits  completed  in  the  short  space  of  three 
days,  by  those  enterprising  shipwrights,  Messrs.  Webb  and  Allen  of 
New  York,  to  whom  much  credit  is  due.  They  joined  the  Squadron 
on  the  12th  of  August,  in  Hampton  Roads. 

The  Relief  was  a  new  vessel,  originally  intended  for  a  store-ship  for 
the  Navy,  but  had  been  transferred  to  the  Expedition  on  being 
launched.  She  was  built  for  carrying,  and  her  slow  rate  of  sailing 
made  her  ill  adapted  for  the  cruise. 

The  Expedition  is  much  indebted  to  Commodore  Ridgely  and  the 


INTRODUCTION. 


XVII 


officers  of  the  Brooklyn  Navy-Yard.  To  Commodore  Downes  and 
Captain  Percival,  of  the  Navy-Yard,  Boston,  we  are  also  nnder  great 
obligations.  The  boats  prepared  under  the  direction  of  the  last  named 
officers,  were  found  to  be  well  adapted  for  the  service.  They  were  all 
clinker-built  with  the  exception  of  the  launches,  and  of  the  description 
used  by  whalers  and  sealers. 

After  the  Peacock’s  return  in  1837,  she  had  undergone  little  or  no 
repairs.  Her  bottom  was  indeed  sound,  being  built  of  live-oak,  but 
her  upper-works  were  worn  and  much  decayed,  as  the  sequel  proved. 
After  this  vessel  left  the  Navy- Yard  at  Norfolk,  her  fore  and  cross- 
jackyards  were  found  by  her  commander  to  be  rotten.  On  its  being 
reported  to  the  commandant  of  the  yard,  they  were  ordered  to  be 
replaced,  and  all  the  other  defects  partially  remedied. 

The  carpenter  of  the  Washington  Navy-Yard,  Mr.  J.  H.  Smoot, 
built  for  me,  under  order  of  the  Commissioners  of  the  Navy,  a  very 
convenient  portable  pendulum-house  and  observatory,  which  answered 
every  purpose  for  which  it  was  intended. 

The  organization  of  this  Expedition  has  frequently  been  a  subject 
of  remark.  I  have  therefore  obtained  all  the  papers  that  passed 
between  the  government  and  Captain  Hudson,  in  relation  to  it,  prior 
to  his  accepting  the  position  he  occupied.  They  form,  with  a  few 
remarks,  the  first  pages  of  the  Appendix  to  this  volume,  and  will  place 
the  whole  in  its  true  light. 

The  Narrative  will  fully  show  the  part  he  has  taken  in  carrying  out 
the  instructions  of  the  Department,  and  I  must  acknowledge  and 
return  my  thanks  to  him  for  the  aid  he  afforded  me  in  the  arduous 
duties  that  devolved  upon  me. 

To  Lieutenant  Cadwalader  Ringgold,  the  commander  of  the  Por¬ 
poise,  I  am  indebted,  for  his  hearty  co-operation  in  the  duties  that 
devolved  upon  the  Expedition.  The  efficient  manner  in  which  he  at 
all  times  held  his  command,  and  the  promptness  with  which  he 
carried  out  the  duties  assigned  him,  merit  my  warmest  acknowledg¬ 
ments  and  thanks. 

The  best  encomium  I  can  bestow  on  the  united  efforts  of  the 
officers  and  men,  is  to  refer  the  reader  to  the  Hydrographical  Atlas, 


VOL.  I. 


E 


xviii  INTRODUCTION. 

and  the  details  in  the  Narrative  of  the  duties  which  have  been  per¬ 
formed. 

In  the  observatory  duties  and  pendulum  observations,  I  was  princi¬ 
pally  assisted  by  Lieutenant  Carr,  Passed  Midshipmen  Eld  and  Blunt, 
and  Mr.  Howison.  I  deem  it  my  duty  to  speak  of  the  devotedness  of 
Assistant-Surgeons  Fox  and  Holmes,  who,  besides  attending  to  their 
engrossing  medical  duties  and  meteorological  observations,  manifested 
the  utmost  zeal  in  collecting  and  making  researches  in  the  various 
departments  of  natural  history.  They  also  frequently  assisted  in  the 
surveys,  and  I  found  them  ever  ready  to  engage  in  any  thing  that 
could  promote  the  success  of  the  Expedition. 

It  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  acknowledge  the  credit  that  is  due, 
and  the  obligations  I  feel  under  to  Mr.  R.  R.  Waldron  and  Mr.  Wil¬ 
liam  Spied en,  Pursers  attached  to  the  Expedition,  for  their  promptness 
in  procuring  the  supplies,  and  at  all  times  forwarding  the  business  of 
the  Expedition;  none  of  the  departments  of  the  service  were  more 
efficient  than  that  over  which  they  had  control. 

Since  our  return,  Lieutenants  Carr,  Budd,  Totten,  and  Eld,  with 
Mr.  F.  D.  Stuart,  who  were  attached  to  the  Expedition,  have  been 
engaged  under  my  direction  in  recalculating  and  revising  our  nume¬ 
rous  surveys,  previous  to  their  being  engraved. 

To  Messrs.  Drayton  and  Agate,  the  artists  of  the  Expedition,  I  feel 
it  due  to  make  known  how  constantly  and  faithfully  they  have  per¬ 
formed  their  duties.  The  illustrations  of  these  volumes  will  bear 
ample  testimony  to  the  amount  of  their  labours,  and  the  accuracy 
with  which  they  have  been  executed. 

Mr.  Drayton  has  had  the  management  of  the  whole  engraving 
department  assigned  him  by  the  Committee  of  the  Library,  and  has 
accomplished  what  very  few  believed  could  be  done  in  this  country. 
The  distribution  of  the  work  among  the  engravers  has  given  general 
satisfaction,  not  only  to  the  Committee,  but  to  the  artists  themselves, 
and  has  afforded  a  national  encouragement  to  this  description  of  art, 
the  benefit  of  which  it  will  long  continue  to  feel. 

To  Mr.  Drayton  I  owe  many  acknowledgments  for  his  constant  and 
untiring  zeal  in  all  the  departments  of  the  Expedition,  not  only  during 


INTRODUCTION. 


XIX 


the  continuance  of  the  Expedition,  but  since  its  return,  while  acting 
in  concert  with  me  in  preparing  the  illustrations  of  the  Narrative  for 
the  press.  I  cannot  but  congratulate  myself,  that  we  should  have  been 
so  fortunate  in  having  one  attached  to  the  Expedition  so  well  adapted 
to  encounter,  and  from  his  former  experience  to  overcome,  the  difficul¬ 
ties  we  have  had  to  contend  with  in  the  progress  of  the  publication. 

The  country  is  particularly  indebted  to  the  Joint  Committees  of  two 
successive  Congresses*  who  have  had  the  execution  of  the  law  for  the 
publication  of  the  results  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  entrusted  to 
them.  They  have  afforded  me  all  the  assistance  I  could  desire ;  and 
through  the  facilities  obtained,  I  have  been  enabled  to  bring  the  Nar¬ 
rative  to  completion  at  a  much  earlier  day  than  I  at  first  anticipated. 

To  the  Hon.  Benjamin  Tappan  especially,  I  feel  under  obligations 
for  the  great  interest  he  has  ever  taken  in  the  Expedition.  The  law 
for  the  publication  was  originally  reported  by  him ;  he  was  at  an 
early  day  appointed  the  agent  of  the  Committee  to  superintend  the 
whole  work  in  its  progress ;  and  it  has  afforded  me  great  pleasure,  as 
well  as  satisfaction,  to  co-operate  with  one  so  competent  to  the  task. 

I  am  aware  that  some  dissatisfaction  was  occasionally  felt  at  the 
outset  by  a  few  of  the  naturalists,  because  they  were  not  allowed  all 
the  opportunities  they  desired  of  making  investigations.  It  was  not 


*  Members  of  the  Joint  Committee  on  the  Library  of  Congress,  at  the  Second  Session 
of  the  Twenty-seventh  Congress  : 

SENATORS.  REPRESENTATIVES. 

Hon.  William  C.  Preston,  Chairman,  Hon.  Joseph  L.  Tillinghast, 

Benjamin  Tappan,  John  B.  Aycrigg, 

Rufus  Choate.  Thomas  D.  Sumter. 

At  the  Third  Session  of  the  Twenty-seventh  Congress  : 

SENATORS.  REPRESENTATIVES. 

Hon.  William  Woodbridge,  Chairman,  Hon.  Joseph  L.  Tillinghast, 

Benjamin  Tappan,  John  B.  Aycrigg, 

Rufus  Choate.  Thomas  D.  Sumter. 


At  the  First  Session  of  the  Twenty-eighth  Congress : 

SENATORS. 

Hon.  Rufus  Choate,  Chairman, 

Benjamin  Tappan, 

John  M,  Berrien. 


REPRESENTATIVES. 

Hon.  Edmund  Burke, 
George  P.  Marsh, 
William  B.  Maclay. 


XX 


INTRODUCTION. 


to  be  supposed,  from  the  many  interests,  and  their  inexperience  in 
naval  duties,  that  all  could  agree  that  the  particular  objects  of  their 
several  departments  received  the  proper  consideration.  Each  would 
naturally  look  upon  his  own  as  the  most  important.  They  were  not 
aware  of  my  instructions,  and  of  the  duties  that  were  enjoined  upon 
me ;  and  I  think  did  not  take  into  consideration  the  loss  of  time  I 
had  met  with  from  various  causes,  and  that  my  intentions  were  at 
times  unexpectedly  frustrated.  Besides,  it  was  my  duty  to  look  to  the 
essential  objects  of  the  Expedition,  which  were  entirely  unknown  to 
them.  They  are  now,  after  the  cruise  has  passed,  I  believe  fully 
satisfied  that  it  was  not  possible,  without  sacrificing  the  greater 
interests,  to  give  more  attention  than  I  did  to  subordinate  parts. 

I  cannot  avoid  bearing  testimony  to  their  perseverance,  industry, 
zeal,  and  strict  conformity  to  the  rules  and  regulations  laid  down  for 
the  government  of  us  all.  The  result  of  their  labours  will  shortly  be 
before  the  public,  and  will  show  the  manner  in  which  they  have  per¬ 
formed  their  duties.  They  messed  with  the  ward-room  officers, 
and  received  all  the  privileges,  respect,  and  attention  due  to  that 
rank. 

In  the  following  Narrative,  it  may  perhaps  be  necessary  to  state, 
that  although  our  time  was  limited  to  a  few  days  at  some  of  the  places 
we  visited,  yet  the  number  of  officers  and  gentlemen  engaged  under 
my  command,  enabled  me  to  have  every  thing  worthy  of  notice 
examined.  The  result  of  our  observations,  I  am  satisfied,  will  give  a 
faithful  representation  of  the  countries  and  islands,  during  the  period 
of  our  visit. 

I  received  every  facility  for  obtaining  information  from  our  consuls, 
as  well  as  from  missionaries  and  American  residents  abroad.  Some 
of  them  furnished  me  with  interesting  documents,  connected  with  the 
past  and  present  state  of  the  countries  where  they  reside,  and  procured 
from  the  different  governments  many  valuable  official  papers.  Indeed, 
the  facilities  met  with  have  evinced  a  desire  in  all  to  further  the  under¬ 
taking  with  which  I  was  charged. 

To  the  Governor  of  New  South  Wales,  Sir  George  Gipps,  my 
acknowledgments  are  particularly  due,  for  his  generous  liberality  in 
ordering  me  to  be  furnished  by  the  Colonial  Secretary,  E.  Deas 


INTRODUCTION. 


XXI 


Thompson,  Esq.,  with  all  the  documents  published,  not  only  at  the 
time  of  our  visit,  but  since.  The  latter  have  been  kindly  forwarded 
by  our  Consul,  J.  H.  Williams,  Esq.,  to  whom  the  Expedition  is  also 
greatly  indebted.  From  all  these  documents  I  have  been  enabled  to 
draw  much  valuable  information,  which  I  hope  will  be  interesting  to 
the  general  reader,  as  well  as  useful  to  our  interests  abroad. 

The  reader  who  shall  look  to  this  Narrative  for  my  version  of  the 
developements  which  were  elicited  by  the  proceedings  of  the  courts- 
martial,  will  be  disappointed,  as  I  shall  make  no  allusions  that  I  can 
possibly  avoid,  to  any  of  the  subjects  of  a  personal  character  that  came 
before  those  tribunals,  that  occurred  after  the  return  of  the  Expedi¬ 
tion;  nor  will  the  following  Narrative  embrace  any  personal  matters  or 
difficulties  that  may  have  taken  place  with  the  officers,  for  the  reason 
that  I  do  not  regard  such  details  as  relevant  or  interesting  to  the  general 
reader.  The  attempts  to  throw  impediments  in  my  way  were  unsuc¬ 
cessful,  and  I  fully  believe,  that  from  whatever  motive  they  may  have 
arisen,  those  who  caused  them  are  now  desirous  that  they  should  be 
forgotten.  My  countrymen  will  see  that  my  duties  were  sufficiently 
arduous  without  having  other  difficulties  to  contend  with,  and  I  have 
the  gratification  of  feeling  that  those  duties  have  been  performed,  and 
the  results  fairly  obtained. 

The  performance  of  these  duties  is  the  best  refutation  that  can  be 
given  to  the  many  misstatements  that  have  been  circulated  to  the 
prejudice  of  the  Expedition,  but  which,  I  trust,  will  now  be  set  at 
rest.  I  have  never  had  any  personal  feeling  in  the  matter,  except 
that  which  naturally  arises  from  the  wish  to  overcome  all  impedi¬ 
ments,  of  whatever  nature  they  might  be.  I  can,  therefore,  have  no 
desire  but  to  give  the  true  version  of  every  circumstance  of  a  public 
nature  that  may  concern  the  Expedition,  and  I  hope  that  I  shall  be 
able  to  do  it  with  impartiality  and  justice,  touching  as  lightly  as  pos¬ 
sible  on  the  faults  of  individuals,  and  bestowing  praise  wherever  it  is 
justly  due. 

The  objects  intended  to  be  accomplished  by  the  Expedition,  were 
such  as  to  require  not  merely  the  usual  obedience  to  the  orders  of  its 
commander,  but  demanded,  in  addition,  a  zeal,  that  could  only  be 


VOL.  I. 


F 


XXII 


INTRODUCTION. 


inspired  by  a  strong  interest  in  its  success,  and  intelligence  of  a 
higher  character  than  is  called  into  action  in  the  ordinary  routine  of 
the  duty  of  an  officer.  Deficiency  in  either  quality,  was  to  oppose  an 
obstacle  to  the  success  of  the  enterprise ;  in  a  word,  we  were  placed  in 
circumstances,  in  which  it  became  necessary  for  us  to  perform  more 
than  our  ordinary  duties.  Those  who  felt  and  appreciated  our  situation, 
are  entitled  to  the  highest  praise ;  while  some  apology  may  be  made 
for  others,  who,  perhaps,  were  unconscious  of  any  failure  in  discipline, 
or  actual  dereliction  of  duty,  and  may  have  thought  that  they  had 
cause  to  be  aggrieved,  when  they  found  that  I  was  not  satisfied  with 
the  manner  in  which  their  services  were  rendered ;  yet,  it  was  as 
incumbent  on  me  to  see  that  our  work  was  not  retarded  by  their 
want  of  zeal  and  knowledge,  as  to  shorten  sail  on  the  approach  of  the 
tempest. 

The  instruments  I  was  supplied  with,  were  procured  by  myself  in 
Europe ;  they  were  made  by  the  best  English,  French,  and  German 
artists.  A  description  of  these  will  be  given  in  the  volume  on 
Physics. 

The  longitudes  of  our  principal  stations  have  been  determined  by 
series  of  moon  culminating  stars,  and  meridian  distances  have  been 
measured  from  them  to  other  points  by  chronometers. 

The  latitudes  of  the  important  places  were  obtained  by  a  number 
of  sets  of  circum-meridian  observations  of  sun  and  stars. 

The  chronometers  used  were  by  the  best  English  makers,  and  most 
of  them  performed  very  satisfactorily.  But  two  out  of  the  twenty- 
nine  became  defective,  and  stopped ;  these  will  be  more  particularly 
noticed  hereafter,  in  the  volume  pertaining  to  this  subject.  To  it  I 
must  also  refer  for  the  manner  in  which  our  surveys  were  executed. 

The  magnetical  instruments  were  by  both  English  and  French 
makers.  Results  have  been  had  throughout  the  cruise,  and  will 
serve  to  give  a  magnetic  chart  of  the  world;  these  will  be  published 
in  the  volume  on  Physics.  Those  observations  of  more  immediate 
interest  in  the  high  southern  latitudes,  will  be  embraced  in  these 
volumes. 

In  the  Appendix  will  be  found  all  the  official  documents  relating  to 


INTRODUCTION. 


XX1I1 


the  operations  of  the  Squadron.  These  I  have  thought  it  necessary  to 
lay  before  the  public,  in  order  that  it  may  have  a  full  view  of  the 
whole  of  the  operations  in  which  the  Squadron  was  employed,  and 
may  be  able  to  examine  and  compare  the  orders  under  which  we  acted, 
with  the  duties  which  have  been  performed.  The  Narrative  will 
embody  all  those  which  we  executed,  and  will  thus  enable  all  to  judge 
how  the  work  was  conducted.  I  have  a  strong  desire  also  that  the 
whole  should  appear,  in  order  that  the  Expedition  may  stand  before 
the  country  and  the  world,  in  its  true  merits.  When  they  become 
aware  of  all  the  facts,  they  will  be  able  to  see  the  injustice  that  has 
been  done  it, — will  wonder  at  the  extraordinary  reception  that  awaited 
its  return,  and  the  persecutions  I  met  with,  as  the  reward  of  the 
arduous  labours  of  four  years.  These  I  cannot  but  feel  were  unjust, 
particularly  as  they  were  carried  on  without  any  hearing  whatever, 
and  even  without  any  examination  of  the  results,  or  any  inquiry  rela¬ 
tive  to  the  extent  of  the  duties,  or  the  manner  in  which  they  had  been 
performed.  This,  however,  is  not  the  place  to  speak  of  these  things. 

I  had,  at  an  early  day  after  my  appointment,  assigned  the  10th  of 
August  as  the  time  for  our  departure,  and  had  assured  the  President 
that  at  that  time  I  should  be  ready,  and  would  sail;  but  that  it  was 
entirely  impossible  for  me  to  fix  an  earlier  day.  I  feel  much  satisfac¬ 
tion  in  reflecting  on  the  confidence  the  President  and  Secretary  placed 
in  me.  It  was  fully  appreciated.  The  exertions  of  all  were  bent  to 
fulfil  this  pledge,  although  almost  all  those  connected  with  the  enter¬ 
prise  doubted  the  possibility  of  getting  off  so  soon.  Every  thing, 
however,  was  completed,  and  I  left  Washington  on  the  10th  of 
August. 

On  my  arrival  at  Norfolk,  I  found  every  thing  in  a  state  of  forward¬ 
ness,  and  the  Squadron  in  Hampton  Roads,  whither  they  had  dropped 
down  on  the  8th  of  August.  The  names  of  the  pilot-boats  were  now 
changed  to  the  Sea-Gull  and  Flying-Fish,  as  had  been  agreed  upon 
with  Mr.  Paulding;  and  they  were  placed  under  command  of  Passed 
Midshipmen  Reid  and  Knox. 

I  was  well  aware,  from  my  own  observations  and  the  reports  made 
to  me,  that  we  were  any  thing  but  well  equipped  for  such  a  cruise. 


XXIV 


INTRODUCTION. 


But  whatever  our  defects  were,  it  was  now  entirely  too  late  to  remedy 
them.  The  great  anxiety  of  the  government  to  have  us  get  to  sea, 
after  the  vexatious  delays  that  had  before  occurred  in  the  sailing  of 
the  Expedition,  disappointing  the  honest  expectations  of  the  whole 
country,  and  particularly  the  depressing  effect  any  further  delay 
would  produce  on  the  spirits  and  ardour  of  the  officers  and  men, 
made  me  come  to  the  resolution  to  put  to  sea  at  all  hazards,  and 
endeavour  to  remedy  the  defects  as  much  as  possible  within  our  own 
means,  or  on  our  arrival  at  places  where  it  could  be  done  effectually. 

Before  sailing  from  Hampton  Roads,  the  internal  rules  and  regula¬ 
tions  for  the  government  of  the  Squadron  were  issued,  in  order  to 
make  the  terms  of  duties  more  uniform,  and  that  in  case  of  transfer  of 
men  and  officers  during  the  cruise,  from  one  vessel  to  another,  no  one 
could  be  at  a  loss  to  know  the  duties  he  had  to  perform.  These  con¬ 
tinued  without  any  material  change  to  be  rigidly  enforced  throughout 
the  cruise.  Signal-books  were  also  arranged  to  supply  the  defective 
ones  that  are  furnished  the  navy. 

I  was  called  upon,  in  a  few  cases,  to  exercise  the  means  in  my  pos¬ 
session  to  punish  aggressions.  Yet  my  aim  has  been  throughout  the 
cruise,  so  to  conduct  the  duties  devolving  upon  the  Squadron,  that  it 
would  carry  with  it  the  force  of  moral  principle.  All  the  regulations 
and  operations  were  made  to  tend  to  this  end.  I  considered  this  as 
one  of  my  first  duties,  and  in  it  I  have  been  well  supported  by  Captain 
Hudson  and  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  and  by  most  of  the 
officers  of  the  Expedition.  I  feel  great  satisfaction  in  having  received 
testimonials  from  the  different  missionaries,  that  my  course  has  been 
fully  appreciated  by  them.  Indeed,  I  have  reason  to  rejoice  that  I 
have  been  enabled  to  carry  the  moral  influence  of  our  country  to  every 
quarter  of  the  globe  where  our  flag  has  waved,  and  I  trust  that  the 
Expedition  will  compare  advantageously  with  any  other  that  has  pre¬ 
ceded  it,  in  its  moral  and  correct  deportment. 


Washington  City, 

November,  1844. 


CHARLES  WILKES. 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


Navy  Department, 

August  11th,  1838. 

Sir, 

The  Congress  of  the  United  States,  having  in  view  the  important 
interests  of  our  commerce  embarked  in  the  whale-fisheries,  and  other 
adventures  in  the  great  Southern  Ocean,  by  an  Act  of  the  18th  of 
May,  1836,  authorized  an  Expedition  to  be  fitted  out  for  the  purpose 
of  exploring  and  surveying  that  sea,  as  well  to  determine  the  existence 
of  all  doubtful  islands  and  shoals,  as  to  discover  and  accurately  fix 
the  position  of  those  which  lie  in  or  near  the  track  of  our  vessels  in 
that  quarter,  and  may  have  escaped  the  observation  of  scientific  navi¬ 
gators.  Liberal  appropriations  have  been  made  for  the  attainment  of 
these  objects,  and  the  President,  reposing  great  confidence  in  your 
courage,  capacity,  and  zeal,  has  appointed  you  to  the  command  of  the 
Expedition,  requiring  you  to  proceed  to  the  performance  of  the  duties 
of  that  station  with  the  vessels  placed  under  your  orders,  consisting  of 
the  sloops  of  war  Vincennes  and  Peacock,  the  ship  Relief,  the  brig 
Porpoise,  and  tenders  Sea-Gull  and  Flying-Fish. 

As  soon  as  these  vessels  are  in  every  respect  ready,  you  will  accord¬ 
ingly  take  your  departure  from  Norfolk,  and  shape  your  course  to  Rio 
Janeiro,  crossing  the  line  between  longitude  18°  and  22°  W.,  and 
keeping  within  those  meridians  to  about  latitude  10°  S.,  with  a  view 
to  determine  the  existence  of  certain  vigias  or  shoals  laid  down  in  the 
charts  as  doubtful,  and  whose  position,  should  they  be  found  to  exist, 
it  is  deemed  useful  to  the  interests  of  our  commerce  to  ascertain. 


VOL.  I. 


G 


XXVI 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


At  Rio  Janeiro,  where  you  will  replenish  your  supplies,  taking 
special  care  to  furnish  yourself  with  a  sufficiency  of  all  those  articles 
which  are  considered  the  best  preventives  and  remedies  for  the 
scurvy.  You  will  determine  the  longitude  of  that  place,  as  well  as  of 
Cape  Frio;  after  which,  you  will  either  detach  a  vessel,  or  proceed 
with  your  whole  squadron,  to  make  a  particular  examination  of  Rio 
Negro,  which  falls  into  the  South  Atlantic  about  latitude  41°  S.,  with 
a  view  to  ascertain  its  resources  and  facilities  for  trade. 

Having  completed  this  survey,  you  will  proceed  to  a  safe  port  or 
ports  in  Terra  del  Fuego,  where  the  members  of  the  scientific  corps 
may  have  favourable  opportunities  of  prosecuting  their  researches. 
Leaving  the  larger  vessels  securely  moored,  and  the  officers  and  crews 
occupied  in  their  respective  duties,  you  will  proceed  with  the  brig 
Porpoise,  and  the  tenders,  to  explore  the  southern  Antarctic,  to  the 
southward  of  Powell’s  Group,  and  between  it  and  Sandwich  Land, 
following  the  track  of  Weddell  as  closely  as  practicable,  and  endea¬ 
vouring  to  reach  a  high  southern  latitude ;  taking  care,  however,  not 
to  be  obliged  to  pass  the  winter  there,  and  to  rejoin  the  other  vessels 
between  the  middle  of  February  and  beginning  of  March.  The 
attention  of  the  officers  left  at  Terra  del  Fuego,  will,  in  the  mean  time, 
be  specially  directed  to  making  such  accurate  and  particular  exami¬ 
nation  and  surveys  of  the  bays,  ports,  inlets,  arid  sounds,  in  that 
region,  as  may  verify  or  extend  those  of  Captain  King,  and  be  ser¬ 
viceable  in  future  to  vessels  engaged  in  the  whale-fisheries,  in  their 
outward  and  homeward-bound  passages. 

You  will  then,  on  rejoining  the  vessels  at  Terra  del  Fuego,  with 
all  your  squadron,  stretch  towards  the  southward  and  westward  as  far 
as  the  Ne  Plus  Ultra  of  Cook,  or  longitude  105  W.,  and  return  north¬ 
ward  to  Valparaiso,  where  a  store-ship  will  meet  you  in  the  month  of 
March,  1839.  Proceeding  once  more  from  that  port,  you  will  direct 
your  course  to  the  Navigator’s  Group,  keeping  to  the  southward  of 
the  place  of  departure,  in  order  to  verify,  if  possible,  the  existence  of 
certain  islands  and  shoals,  laid  down  in  the  charts  as  doubtful,  and  if 
they  exist,  to  determine  their  precise  position,  as  well  as  that  of  all 
others  which  may  be  discovered  in  this  ijnfrequented  track.  When 
you  arrive  in  those  latitudes  where  discoveries  may  be  reasonably 
anticipated,  you  will  so  dispose  your  vessels  as  that  they  shall  sweep 
the  broadest  expanse  of  the  ocean  that  may  be  practicable,  without 
danger  of  parting  company,  laying-to  at  night  in  order  to  avoid  the 
chance  of  passing  any  small  island  or  shoal  without  detection. 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


XXV11 


It  is  presumed  you  will  reach,  the  Navigator’s  Group  some  time  in 
June,  1839.  You  will  survey  this  group,  and  its  harbours,  with  all 
due  care  and  attention.  If  time  will  permit,  it  will  he  well  to  visit 
the  Society  Islands,  and  examine  Eimeo,  which,  it  is  stated,  pos¬ 
sesses  a  convenient  harbour. 

From  the  Navigator’s  Group,  you  will  proceed  to  the  Feejee 
Islands,  which  you  will  examine  with  particular  attention,  with  the 
view  to  the  selection  of  a  safe  harbour,  easy  of  access,  and  in  every 
respect  adapted  to  the  reception  of  vessels  of  the  United  States 
engaged  in  the  whale-fishery,  and  the  general  commerce  of  these 
seas;  it  being  the  intention  of  the  government  to  keep  one  of  the 
squadron  of  the  Pacific  cruising  near  these  islands  in  future. 

After  selecting  the  island  and  harbour  best  adapted  to  the  purposes 
in  view,  you  will  use  your  endeavours  to  make  such  arrangements 
as  will  insure  a  supply  of  fruits,  vegetables,  and  fresh  provisions,  to 
vessels  visiting  it  hereafter,  teaching  the  natives  the  modes  of  culti¬ 
vation,  and  encouraging  them  to  raise  hogs  in  greater  abundance. 

These  objects  will,  it  is  presumed,  occupy  you  until  the  latter  end 
of  October ;  and  when  attained  as  far  as  may  be  possible,  you  will 
proceed  to  the  port  of  Sydney,  where  adequate  supplies  may  be 
obtained.  From  thence  you  will  make  a  second  attempt  to  penetrate 
within  the  Antarctic  region,  south  of  Van  Diemen’s  Land,  and  as  far 
west  as  longitude  45°  E.,  or  to  Enderby’s  Land,  making  your  ren¬ 
dezvous  on  your  return  at  Kerguelen’s  Land,  or  the  Isle  of  Desolation, 
as  it  is  now  usually  denominated,  and  where  you  will  probably  arrive 
by  the  latter  end  of  March,  1840. 

From  the  Isle  of  Desolation  you  will  proceed  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  by  such  route  as  you  may  judge  best,  from  the  information 
you  may  acquire  from  such  sources  as  fall  in  your  way. 

A  store-ship  from  the  United  States  will  meet  you  here,  with  a 
supply  of  provisions,  in  the  month  of  April,  1840. 

Thence  you  will  direct  your  course  to  the  northwest  coast  of 
America,  making  such  surveys  and  examinations,  first  of  the  territory 
of  the  United  States  on  the  sea-board,  and  of  the  Columbia  river,  and 
afterwards  along  the  coast  of  Calefornia,  with  special  reference  to  the 
Bay  of  St.  Francisco,  as  you  can  accomplish  by  the  month  of  October 
following  your  arrival. 

You  will  then  proceed  to  the  coast  of  Japan,  taking  in  your  route 
as  many  doubtful  islands  as  possible ;  and  you  have  permission  to 


XXV111 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


pass  through,  the  Straits  of  Sangar  into  the  Sea  of  Japan,  where  you 
may  spend  as  much  time  as  is  compatible  with  your  arrival  at  the 
proper  season  in  the  Sea  of  Sooloo  or  Mindoro. 

Of  this  sea  you  will  make  a  particular  examination,  with  a  view 
to  ascertain  whether  there  is  any  safe  route  through  it,  which  will 
shorten  the  passage  of  our  vessels  to  and  from  China. 

It  is  enjoined  on  you  to  pay  very  particular  attention  to  this  object, 
in  order  that  you  may  be  enabled  to  furnish  sailing  instructions  to 
navigators.  It  may  be  also  advisable  to  ascertain  the  disposition  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  islands  of  this  archipelago  for  commerce,  their 
productions  and  resources. 

Having  completed  this  survey,  you  will  proceed  to  the  Straits  of 
Sunda,  pass  through  the  Straits  of  Billiton,  which  you  will  examine, 
and  thence  to  the  port  of  Singapore,  where  it  is  probable  you  may 
arrive  about  the  beginning  of  April,  1841,  and  where  you  will  meet 
a  store-ship  from  the  United  States. 

Having  completed  this  service,  it  is  presumed  the  objects  of  your 
enterprise  will  be  accomplished,  and  you  will  accordingly,  after  re¬ 
ceiving  your  supplies  at  Singapore,  return  to  the  United  States  by 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  taking  such  a  course  as  may  be  most  likely 
to  further  the  great  purposes  of  the  Expedition. 

During  your  stay  in  the  southern  latitudes,  should  the  dysentery 
or  any  other  fatal  epidemic  make  its  appearance  among  your  crews, 
you  have  leave  to  proceed  to  the  northward,  until  the  disease  shall 
either  disappear,  or  be  so  mitigated,  as  to  admit  of  the  resumption  of 
your  surveys. 

The  Department  does  not  feel  the  necessity  of  giving  any  special 
directions  for  preserving  the  health  of  those  under  your  command, 
confiding  in  your  own  experience,  the  care  and  precautions  of  the 
able  surgeons  with  whom  you  are  provided,  and  in  the  conviction 
you  must  feel,  that  on  the  health  of  your  crews  must  depend  the  suc¬ 
cess  of  the  enterprise. 

In  the  prosecution  of  these  long  and  devious  voyages,  you  will 
necessarily  be  placed  in  situations  which  cannot  be  anticipated,  and 
in  which,  sometimes  your  own  judgment  and  discretion,  at  others, 
necessity,  must  be  your  guide.  Among  savage  nations,  unacquainted 
with,  or  possessing  but  vague  ideas  of  the  rights  of  property,  the  most 
common  cause  of  collision  with  civilized  visiters,  is  the  offence  and 
the  punishment  of  theft.  You  will  therefore  adopt  every  possible 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


XXIX 


precaution  against  this  practice,  and  in  the  recovery  of  the  stolen 
property,  as  well  as  in  punishing  the  offender,  use  all  due  moderation 
and  forbearance. 

You  will  permit  no  trade  to  be  carried  on  by  the  squadron,  with 
the  countries  you  may  visit,  either  civilized  or  savage,  except  for 
necessaries  or  curiosities,  and  that  under  express  regulations  esta¬ 
blished  by  yourself,  in  which  the  rights  of  the  natives  must  be 
scrupulously  respected  and  carefully  guarded. 

You  will  neither  interfere,  nor  permit  any  wanton  interference  with 
the  customs,  habits,  manners,  or  prejudices,  of  the  natives  of  such 
countries  or  islands  as  you  may  visit ;  nor  take  part  in  their  disputes, 
except  as  a  mediator,  nor  commit  any  act  of  hostility,  unless  in  self- 
defence,  or  to  protect  or  secure  the  property  of  those  under  your 
command,  or  whom  circumstances  may  have  placed  within  reach  of 
your  protection. 

You  will  carefully  inculcate  on  all  the  officers  and  men  under  your 
command,  that  courtesy  and  kindness  towards  the  natives,  which  is 
understood  and  felt  by  all  classes  of  mankind;  to  display  neither 
arrogance  nor  contempt,  and  to  appeal  to  their  good-will,  rather  than 
their  fears,  until  it  shall  become  apparent  that  they  can  only  be 
restrained  from  violence  by  fear  or  force. 

You  will,  on  all  occasions,  avoid  risking  the  officers  and  men  unne¬ 
cessarily  on  shore,  at  the  mercy  of  the  natives.  Treachery  is  one  of 
the  invariable  characteristics  of  savages  and  barbarians ;  and  very 
many  of  the  fatal  disasters  which  have  befallen  preceding  navigators, 
have  arisen  from  too  great  a  reliance  on  savage  professions  of  friend¬ 
ship,  or  overweening  confidence  in  themselves. 

Much  of  the  character  of  our  future  intercourse  with  the  natives 
of  the  lands  you  may  visit,  will  depend  on  the  impressions  made  on 
their  minds  by  their  first  intercourse  with  your  vessels. 

It  is  the  nature  of  the  savage,  long  to  remember  benefits,  and  never 
to  forget  injuries ;  and  you  will  use  your  best  endeavours  wherever 
you  may  go,  to  leave  behind  a  favourable  impression  of  your  country 
and  countrymen.  The  Expedition  is  not  for  conquest,  but  discovery. 
Its  objects  are  all  peaceful ;  they  are  to  extend  the  empire  of  com¬ 
merce  and  science;  to  diminish  the  hazards  of  the  ocean,  and  point 
out  to  future  navigators  a  course  by  which  they  may  avoid  dangers 
and  find  safety. 

An  Expedition  so  constituted,  and  for  such  purposes,  armed  for 
defence,  not  conquest,  and  engaged  in  pursuits  in  which  all  en¬ 


voi..  i. 


h 


XXX 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


lightened  nations  are  equally  interested,  has  a  right  to  expect  the 
good-will  and  good  offices  of  the  whole  civilized  world.  Should  our 
country,  therefore,  be  unhappily  involved  in  war  during  your  absence, 
you  will  refrain  from  all  acts  of  hostility  whatever,  as  it  is  confidently 
believed  none  will  be  committed  against  you.  So  far  from  this  being 
the  case,  it  is  not  to  be  doubted  that  even  hostile  nations  will  respect 
your  purposes,  and  afford  every  facility  to  their  accomplishment. 

Finally,  you  will  recollect,  that  though  you  may  frequently  be 
carried  beyond  the  sphere  of  social  life,  and  the  restraints  of  law, 
yet  that  the  obligations  of  justice  and  humanity  are  always  and  every 
where  equally  imperative  in  our  intercourse  with  men,  and  most 
especially  savages ;  that  we  seek  them,  not  they  us ;  and  that  if  we 
expect  to  derive  advantages  from  the  intercourse,  we  should  endea¬ 
vour  to  confer  benefits  in  return. 

Although  the  primary  object  of  the  Expedition  is  the  promotion  of 
the  great  interests  of  commerce  and  navigation,  yet  you  will  take  all 
occasions,  not  incompatible  with  the  great  purposes  of  your  under¬ 
taking,  to  extend  the  bounds  of  science,  and  promote  the  acquisition 
of  knowledge.  For  the  more  successful  attainment  of  these,  a  corps 
of  scientific  gentlemen,  consisting  of  the  following  persons,  will 
accompany  the  Expedition,  and  are  placed  under  your  direction. 


Mr.  Hale,  Philologist. 

Mr.  Pickering,  7  at  *  r  - 
,  r  ^  N  aturaiists 

Mr.  Peale,  3 

Mr.  Couthouy,  Conchologist. 

Mr.  Dana,  Mineralogist. 

Mr.  Rich,  Botanist. 


Naturalists. 


Mr.  Brackenridge,  Horticulturist. 


The  hydrography  and  geography  of  the  various  seas  and  coun¬ 
tries  you  may  visit  in  the  route  pointed  out  to  you  in  the  preceding 
instructions,  will  occupy  your  special  attention;  and  all  the  researches 
connected  with  them,  as  well  as  with  astronomy,  terrestrial  magnet¬ 
ism,  and  meteorology,  are  confided  exclusively  to  the  officers  of  the 
navy,  on  whose  zeal  and  talents  the  Department  confidently  relies 
for  such  results  as  will  enable  future  navigators  to  pass  over  the  track 
traversed  by  your  vessels,  without  fear  and  without  danger. 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


XXXI 


No  special  directions  are  thought  necessary  in  regard  to  the  mode 
of  conducting  the  scientific  researches  and  experiments  which  you 
are  enjoined  to  prosecute,  nor  is  it  intended  to  limit  the  members  of 
the  corps  each  to  his  own  particular  service.  All  are  expected  to 
co-operate  harmoniously  in  those  kindred  pursuits,  whose  equal 
dignity  and  usefulness  should  insure  equal  ardour  and  industry  in 
extending  their  bounds  and  verifying  their  principles. 

As  guides  to  yourself  and  to  the  scientific  corps,  the  Department 
would,  however,  direct  your  particular  attention  to  the  learned  and 
comprehensive  Reports  of  a  committee  of  the  American  Philosophical 
Society  of  Philadelphia,  the  Report  of  a  Committee  of  the  East  India 
Marine  Society,  of  Salem,  Massachusetts ;  and  to  a  communication 
from  the  Naval  Lyceum  of  New  York,  which  accompany,  and  are 
to  be  regarded  as  forming  a  part  of  these  instructions,  so  far  as  they 
may  accord  with  the  primary  objects  of  the  Expedition,  and  its 
present  organization.  You  will,  therefore,  allow  the  gentlemen  of 
the  scientific  corps  the  free  perusal  of  these  valuable  documents,  and 
permit  them  to  copy  such  portions  as  they  may  think  proper. 

The  Russian  Vice-Admiral  Krusenstern,  has  transmitted  to  the 
Department  memorandums  relating  to  the  objects  of  this  Expedition, 
together  with  the  most  improved  charts  of  his  atlas  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  with  explanations,  in  three  volumes.  These  are  also  confided 
to  your  care ;  and  it  is  not  doubted  that  the  friendly  contributions  of 
this  distinguished  navigator  will  essentially  contribute  to  the  success 
of  an  enterprise  in  which  he  takes  so  deep  an  interest. 

You  will  prohibit  all  those  under  your  command  from  furnishing 
any  persons  not  belonging  to  the  Expedition,  with  copies  of  any 
journal,  charts,  plan,  memorandum,  specimen,  drawing,  painting, 
or  information  of  any  kind,  which  has  reference  to  the  objects  or 
proceedings  of  the  Expedition. 

It  being  considered  highly  important  that  no  journal  of  these 
voyages,  either  partial  or  complete,  should  be  published,  without  the 
authority  and  under  the  supervision  of  the  government  of  the  United 
States,  at  whose  expense  this  Expedition  is  undertaken,  you  will, 
before  you  reach  the  waters  of  the  United  States,  require  from  every 
person  under  your  command  the  surrender  of  all  journals,  memo¬ 
randums,  remarks,  writings,  drawings,  sketches,  and  paintings,  as 
well  as  all  specimens  of  every  kind,  collected  or  prepared  during 
your  absence  from  the  United  States. 

After  causing  correct  inventories  of  these  to  be  made  and  signed 


XXX11 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


by  two  commissioned  officers,  and  by  the  parties  by  whom  they  were 
collected  or  prepared,  yon  will  cause  them  to  be  carefully  sealed  by 
the  said  officers,  and  reserved  for  such  disposition  as  the  Department 
may  direct. 

You  will  adopt  the  most  effectual  measures  to  prepare  and  preserve 
all  specimens  of  natural  history  that  may  be  collected,  and  should 
any  opportunities  occur  for  sending  home  by  a  vessel  of  war  of  the 
United  States,  copies  of  information,  or  duplicates  of  specimens,  or 
any  other  material  you  may  deem  it  important  to  preserve  from  the 
reach  of  future  accident,  you  will  avail  yourself  of  the  occasion, 
forwarding  as  frequently  as  may  be  done  with  safety,  details  of 
your  voyage  and  its  most  material  events,  at  the  same  time  strictly 
prohibiting  all  communications  except  to  this  Department,  from  any 
person  attached  to  the  Expedition,  referring  to  discoveries,  or  any 
circumstances  connected  with  the  progress  of  your  enterprise. 

It  is  believed  that  the  officers  under  your  command  require  no 
special  advice  or  direction  from  this  Department.  Bearing  in  mind, 
as  they  no  doubt  will,  that  the  undertaking  which  they  are  about 
assisting  to  accomplish,  is  one  that  necessarily  attracts  the  attention 
of  the  civilized  world,  and  that  the  honour  and  interests  of  their 
country  are  equally  involved  in  its  results,  it  is  not  for  a  moment 
doubted  that  in  this,  as  on  all  other  occasions,  they  will  so  conduct 
themselves,  as  to  add  to  the  reputation  our  navy  has  so  justly  acquired 
at  home  and  abroad. 

With  the  best  wishes  for  the  success  of  the  Expedition,  and  the 
safe  return  of  yourself  and  your  companions, 

I  am,  very  respectfully, 

(Signed)  J.  K.  Paulding. 

To  Lieutenant  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  the  Exploring  and  Surveying  Expedition ,  fyc. 

P.  S.  The  accompanying  printed  list  of  English  words,  drawn  up 
by  Mr.  Gallatin,  and  received  from  the  War  Department  since  these 
instructions  were  prepared,  are  intended  for  Indian  vocabularies, 
which  can  be  filled  up  as  circumstances  permit,  taking  care  that  the 
same  words  be  used  in  all  of  them. 


(Signed)  J.  K.  Paulding. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN 

ATTACHED  TO 

THE  UNITED  STATES  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


UNITED  STATES  SHIP  VINCENNES. 

Charles  Wilkes,  Esq.,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


Thomas  T.  Craven, 

Lieutenant. 

Overton  Carr, 

Lieutenant. 

Robert  E.  Johnson, 

Lieutenant. 

James  Alden, 

Lieutenant. 

William  L.  Maury, 

Lieutenant. 

James  H.  North, 
Edward  Gilchrist, 

R.  R.  Waldron, 

I.  L.  Elliott, 

Acting  Master. 
Acting  Surgeon. 
Purser. 

Chaplain. 

J.  L.  Fox, 

Assistant  Surg. 

J.  Q.  Whittle, 

Assistant  Surg. 

George  M.  Totten, 

Passed  Mid. 

Left  at  Valparaiso  June  6th,  1839,  to  take 
command  of  the  Sea-Gull. 

Took  command  of  brig  Oregon,  at  San 
Francisco,  October,  1841. 

Commanded  Sea-Gull  on  her  Southern 
Cruise,  detached  at  Honolulu,  Novem¬ 
ber,  1841. 

Joined  brig  Porpoise  at  San  Francisco, 
October,  1841. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Orange  Bay,  and  Por¬ 
poise  at  Callao. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  Callao. 

Detached  at  Sydney,  March,  1840. 

Detached  at  San  Francisco,  October, 

1841. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  San  Francisco,  Octo¬ 
ber,  1841. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Honolulu,  and  Vin¬ 
cennes  again  at  San  Francisco. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes 
at  Honolulu. 


VOL.  i. 


i 


XXXIV 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


William  Reynolds, 

Passed  Mid. 

Joined  Peacock,  1839,  and  Flying-Fish  at 
Honolulu,  1840,  and  Porpoise  at  Singa¬ 
pore. 

William  May, 

Passed  Mid. 

Joined  Flying-Fish  on  a  cruise  south, 
1839-’40,  and  Vincennes  again,  May, 

1840. 

Joseph  P.  Sandford, 

Passed  Mid. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  Tahiti,  Schooner  Fly¬ 
ing-Fish  at  San  Francisco,  and  Porpoise 
at  Singapore. 

George  W.  Clark, 

Midshipman. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Tahiti,  and  Vincennes 
again  at  San  Francisco. 

Samuel  Elliott, 

Midshipman. 

William  Smith, 

Boatswain. 

Washington  Bright, 

Gunner. 

Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 

William  M.  Laighton, 

Carpenter. 

Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 

Samuel  N.  Hawkins, 

Sailmaker. 

Benj.  Vanderford, 

Pilot. 

Died,  April,  1842. 

R.  P.  Robinson, 

Purser’s  Steward. 

John  G.  Williamson, 

Gunner. 

SCIENTIFIC  CORPS. 


Charles  Pickering, 
Joseph  Drayton, 

J.  D.  Brackenridge, 
John  G.  Brown, 
John  W.  W.  Dyes, 
Joseph  P.  Couthouy, 


Naturalist. 

Artist. 

Assistant  Botanist. 

Mathematical  Instrument  Maker. 

Assistant  Taxidermist. 

Naturalist.  Left  at  Sydney,  and  detached  at  Hono¬ 

lulu,  November,  1840. 


UNITED  STATES  SHIP  PEACOCK. 

WRECKED  JULY  18th,  1841. 


William  L.  Hudson,  Esq.,  Commanding. 
Samuel  P.  Lee,  Lieutenant. 

W.  M.  Walker,  Lieutenant. 


Joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 
Detached  at  Orange  Bay,  Feb.  1839. 
Commanded  Flying-Fish  first  cruise, 
joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  river,  and 
Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


XXXV 


George  F.  Emmons, 

Lieutenant. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 

0.  H.  Perry, 

Lieutenant. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 

Thomas  A.  Budd, 

Acting  Master. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Feejee. 

J.  F.  Sickles, 

Surgeon. 

Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 

William  Spieden, 

Purser. 

Joined  Oregon  at  Columbia  River. 

Silas  Holmes, 

Assistant  Surg. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  Sydney,  and  Oregon 
at  San  Francisco. 

James  B.  Lewis, 

Passed  Mid. 

Joined  Flying-Fish  at  Feejee,  returned 
home  from  Oahu  sick. 

Henry  Gansevoort, 

Passed  Mid. 

Detached  at  Callao,  1839. 

Henry  Eld, 

Passed  Mid. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Feejee. 

George  W.  Harrison, 

Passed  Mid. 

Joined  Flying-Fish  on  cruise  south,  Pea¬ 
cock  at  Feejee,  and  Oregon  at  Colum¬ 
bia  river. 

Wilkes  Henry, 

Midshipman. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Callao,  killed,  July 
24th,  1840,  at  Malolo. 

William  H.  Hudson, 

Midshipman. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Columbia  river. 

Frederick  D.  Stuart, 

Captain’s  Clerk. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  river,  and 
Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 

Thomas  G.  Bell, 

Boatswain. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  river,  and 
Oregon  at  San  Francisco. 

John  D.  Anderson, 

Gunner. 

Detached  at  Callao. 

Jonas  Dibble, 

Carpenter. 

Joined  Oregon  at  Columbia  river. 

J.  D.  Freeman, 

Sailmaker. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  river. 

William  H.  Insley, 

Purser’s  Steward.  Detached  at  Callao. 

SCIENTIFIC  CORPS. 

James  D.  Dana, 

Mineralogist. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 

T.  R.  Peale, 

Naturalist. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 

Horatio  Hale, 

Philologist. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  New  Zealand,  Pea¬ 
cock  at  Honolulu,  and  was  left  at 
Oregon  to  cross  the  country. 

F.  L.  Davenport, 

Interpreter. 

Detached  at  Rio. 

XXXVI 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


UNITED  STATES  SHIP  RELIEF. 


SENT  HOME  FROM  CALLAO,  BY  WAY  OF  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  AND  SYDNEY. 


A.  K.  Long, 

R.  F.  Pinkney, 


A.  L.  Case, 

Joseph  A.  Underwood, 
George  T.  Sinclair, 


J.  C.  Palmer, 


Alonzo  B.  Davis, 


Thomas  W.  Cummings, 
James  L.  Blair, 


James  R.  Howison, 
J.  Black, 

Thomas  Lewis, 


Lieutenant  Commandant. 


Lieutenant. 


Lieutenant. 

Lieutenant. 

Acting  Master. 


Acting  Surgeon. 


Passed  Mid. 


Passed  Mid. 
Midshipman. 


Captain’s  Clerk. 

Boatswain. 

Gunner. 


Joined  Peacock  at  Orange  Bay,  Flying- 
Fish  at  Callao,  and  detached  at  Hono¬ 
lulu,  1840. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Callao. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Callao,  and  killed  at 
Malolo,  July  24th,  1840. 

Joined  Porpoise  at  Callao ;  Commander 
Flying-Fish  at  Feejee ;  joined  Porpoise 
again  at  Honolulu,  November,  1840. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at 
Columbia  river,  and  Vincennes  at  San 
Francisco. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes 
at  Columbia  river,  and  Oregon  at  San 
Francisco. 

Left  sick  at  Rio. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Rio,  Schooner  Flying- 
Fish  at  Columbia  river,  and  Vincennes 
at  Honolulu. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Callao. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at 
Columbia  river. 


SCIENTIFIC  CORPS. 

William  Rich,  Botanist.  Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes 

at  San  Francisco. 

Alfred  S.  Agate,  Artist.  Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes 

at  San  Francisco. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


XXXV11 


UNITED  STATES  BRIG  PORPOISE. 


Cadwalader  Ringgold, 

Lieutenant-Commandant. 

M.  G.  L.  Claiborne, 

Lieutenant. 

Joined  Relief  at  Orange  Bay. 

H.  J.  Hartstein, 

Lieutenant. 

Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 

John  B.  Dale, 

Lieutenant. 

Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 

A.  S.  Baldwin, 

Acting  Master. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at 
Columbia  river. 

C.  F.  B.  Guillou, 

Assist.  Surgeon. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Sydney,  Flying-Fish 
at  Columbia  river,  and  detached  at 
Honolulu,  November,  1841. 

Simon  F.  Blunt, 

Passed  Mid. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Orange  Bay,  and 
left  sick  at  Honolulu,  in  April,  1841. 

Geo.  W.  Colvocoresis, 

Passed  Mid. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Rio,  Vincennes  at 
Feejee,  and  Oregon  at  San  Francisco. 

Thomas  W.  Waldron, 

Captain’s  Clerk. 

0.  Nelson, 

Boatswain. 

Detached  at  Rio. 

Amos  Chick, 

Carpenter. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Callao. 

John  Joines, 

Sailmaker. 

Detached  at  Callao  ;  joined  Relief. 

William  H.  Morse, 

Purser’s  Steward. 

John  Frost, 

Boatswain. 

TENDER  SEA-GULL. 


LOST  ABOUT  MAY  1ST,  1839. 

James  W.  E.  Reid,  Passed  Midshipman,  Commandant. 

Frederick  A.  Bacon,  Passed  Midshipman. 

Isaac  Percival,  Pilot.  Joined  Relief  at  Callao. 


TENDER  FLYING-FISH. 


SOLD  AT  SINGAPORE. 

Samuel  R.  Knox,  Commandant.  Commanding  Schooner  most  of  the  cruise ; 

joined  Vincennes  at  Singapore. 


VOL.  i. 


K 


XXXV111 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


George  W.  Hammersly, 

Midshipman. 

Richard  Ellice, 

- Clems  on, 

As.  Master’s  Mate, 
Midshipman. 

Egbert  Thompson, 

Midshipman. 

A.  M.  Cesney, 

E.  H.  De  Haven, 

Master’s  Mate. 
Acting  Master. 

James  S.  Power, 

Purser’s  Steward. 

John  Anderson, 

Seaman. 

Joseph  R.  Atkins, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Charles  Allen, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Stephen  F,  Angell, 
Joseph  C.  Allen, 

Jean  Antonia, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joseph  Allshouse, 

Private. 

James  Anderson, 

John  Anderson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

James  Allman, 

t 

Private. 

Silas  Atkins, 

Seaman. 

Peter  Ackerman, 

Seaman. 

John  Ayres, 

Charles  Adams, 

John  Brown,  1st, 

Landsman. 

Cooper. 

Seaman. 

Robert  Boyle, 

Seaman. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes 
at  Feejee. 

Detached  ;  joined  Relief  at  Rio. 

Joined  the  Vincennes  at  Rio ;  detached  at 
Callao. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Rio,  Peacock  at 
Feejee,  and  Vincennes  again  at  Co¬ 
lumbia  river. 

Detached  at  Honolulu. 

Joined  Vincennes  at  Callao,  Peacock  at 
Feejee,  and  Oregon  at  Columbia  river. 

Joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at 
Columbia  river. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned,  ex¬ 
piration  of  cruise. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  served  to  end  of  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  to  the  end  of  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  Oahu 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  Hawaii. 

Joined  at  Cape  Town  ;  served  to  the  end 
of  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  October 
30th,  1841. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Callao  ;  killed  by  the  natives  at 
Drummond  Island. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


XXXIX 


Henry  Buckett, 

Quarter  Master. 

John  Brooks, 

Seaman. 

Henry  Batchelor, 

Seaman. 

John  Black, 

Boatsn’s  Mate. 

Henry  Blackstone, 

Seaman. 

Franklin  Brown, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

David  Banks, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Peter  Brown, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Sydney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Upolu,  Nov.  10th, 

1839. 


David  Bartlett, 
John  Brown,  2d, 

John  L.  Blake, 

John  Bremot, 

John  Buckley, 

Frederick  Beale, 
Andrew  A.  Brown, 

Shelden  Benedict, 

John  Bartholomew, 


Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 


Joined  at  Rio  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Sydney,  Dec.  31st, 

1839. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  discharged  June  30th, 

1840. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Callao,  July  13th, 
1839. 


Officers’  Steward.  Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  discharged  at  Cal¬ 
lao,  June,  1839. 

Ord’y  Seaman.  Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  New  Zealand. 

Ord’y  Seaman.  Joined  at  New  Zealand;  served  the 

cruise. 

Qr.  Gunner.  Joined  at  New  Zealand ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Ord’y  Seaman.  Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  Oahu,  Nov.  26th, 

1841. 


John  A.  Brown,  Landsman. 

Ebenezer  Bartholomew,  Ord’y  Seaman. 
Derby  Batchelor,  Ord’y  Seaman. 

David  Bateman,  Private. 


Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Maui ;  run  at  Oahu,  Nov.  26th, 
1841. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  died  at  Fee- 
jee  Islands,  June  30th,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  sent  home 
from  Rio,  sick. 


Richard  Brothers, 


Seaman. 


xl 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


James  Brown, 

Carpenter’s  Mate 

Joseph  Bass, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

James  Berry, 

John  Baptiste, 

John  W.  Boyson, 

John  F.  Brown, 

Robert  C.  Bernard, 
Alexander  Bowman, 
Samuel  Brown, 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 
Seaman. 

Quarter  Master. 

Seaman. 

Capt.  Forecastle. 

William  Brown,  2d, 
Alexander  Barron, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 

Peter  Bowen, 

Walston  Bradley, 
William  Bruce, 

Davy  Beal, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Landsman. 

John  Brookins, 
Artimeus  W.  Beals, 
William  Bostwick, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Hold. 

Capt.  Cook. 

Theodore  Beton, 
Robert  Brown, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Boatsn’s  Mate. 

William  Brisco, 

Armourer. 

Charles  Berry, 

Mast.  Arms. 

David  Burns, 

Officers’  Cook. 

John  B.  Brown, 

Seaman. 

Joseph  Brimblecomb, 

Seaman. 

Patrick  Boyle, 

Thomas  Burke, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  the  Feejee  Islands ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  Singapore. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Rio. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Valparaiso. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  run  at  Callao. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  left  sick  in  charge  of 
Consul  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Upolu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Upolu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned  in 
Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned  in 
Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 
Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 
Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Rio. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 


cruise. 


LIST  OP  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


xli 


Philip  Babe, 

Private. 

George  Butter, 

Officers’  Cook. 

David  Blodget, 

Officers’  Cook. 

Jacob  Bolin, 

Capt.  Forecastle. 

Francis  Baker, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Henry  Bingham, 
Garret  Cole, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 

W.  H.  Ciiummings, 

Boatsn’s  Mate. 

Mason  Crowell, 

Landsman. 

John  Cooper, 

Armourer. 

James  Cummings, 

Seaman. 

Isaac  Carmey, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Charles  J.  Colson, 

Hosp.  Steward. 

Daniel  Clute, 

Quarter-Master. 

Roswell  Cann, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

James  Corse, 

William  Clark, 
Ezekiel  Cooper, 
Jasper  Cropsey. 

Tom  Coffin, 

George  Croker, 
David  Cropsey, 
George  Case, 
Ephraim  Coffin, 
Joseph  Clark, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Corp’l  Marines. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  died  at  Navi¬ 
gator’s  Islands,  Nov.  6th,  1839. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  lost  in  the 
Sea-Gull. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  lost  in  the 
Sea-Gull. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  sent  home  in  Relief. 

Joined  at  Sydney  ;  served  out  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run,  same  place. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  Hawaii. 

Joined  at  Hawaii ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  discharged  at  California. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 


von.  i. 


L 


Robert  Campbell, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Lawrence  Cavenaugh, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Joseph  Clark, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Isaac  Cook, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  II.  Cole, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  2d  November,  1840. 

Charles  Clifford, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  2d  November,  1840. 

Paul  Camell, 

Officers’  Steward.  Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Charles  Chancy, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Sydney. 

James  Cunningham, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Tahiti. 

Richard  Cooper, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Upolu;  run  at  Sydney. 

Levin  Clark, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Gaylord  P.  Churchill, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joshua  Cary, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 

James  Crontu, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at 
Sydney. 

Joseph  Crozby, 

Carpenter’s  Mate.  Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned  in 
Relief. 

Alfred  Cassedy, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Callao. 

William  Clegg, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned  in 

Relief. 

John  Cook, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned  in 

Relief. 

William  Carter, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Cook, 

Boatsn’s  Mate. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Charles  Chapman, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  at  Callao  ;  served  the  cruise. 

James  Coburn, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand ;  served  the 

cruise. 

George  Cook, 

2d  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  discharged  same  place, 
November  19,  1841. 

Valentine  Lister, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  transferred 
to  Independence,  at  Rio. 

LIST 

OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN.  xliii 

Jerome  Davis, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Doughty, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Demock, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Dismond, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  Dunn, 

Officers’ Steward.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Alexander  Dunn, 

Cockswain. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Rio,  November  30th,  1838. 

John  W.  Divin, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Christian  Dobleman, 

Master-at-Arms. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  Daniels, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  New  Zealand. 

James  Dowling,  1st, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Sydney  ;  run  at  New  Zealand. 

John  N.  Dean, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Sydney  ;  served  the  cruise. 

John  E.  Day, 

Landsman. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand ;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Davis,  1st, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Harvey  Dean, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  Singapore. 

John  Davis,  2d, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  Hawaii. 

James  Dowling,  2d, 

Landsman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Charles  Duegen, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  returned  in  Relief. 

John  Disbrow, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Addison  Dunbar, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

William  D ammon, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 

George  Daily, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

William  Daily, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Stephen  W.  Days, 

Hosp.  Steward. 

Joined  in  the  -United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Solomon  Disney, 

Sailmaker’s  Mate.  Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Joseph  Dolevar, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso ;  served  the  cruise. 

Thomas  Dewees, 

Corporal, 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Thomas  Derling, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  run  at  Oahu. 

LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


xliv 
Samuel  Dinsman, 

Joseph  De  Silva, 

Samuel  Dinsman, 

David  Dalton, 

Thomas  Dickenson, 

William  Dillon, 

James  Derley, 

Charles  Erskin, 

George  Elliott, 

W.  H.  Eldridge, 
Henry  Evans, 

Samuel  Eastman, 

William  Eastwood, 

James  Elliotte, 

William  Frazier, 

John  Fenno, 

Henry  A.  Felson, 

William  Forsdick, 

John  Fisk, 

Thomas  Ford, 

William  Frazier,  2d, 
Edward  Fox, 
Frederick  Friends, 
Matthew  Francisco, 
Alexander  C.  Fowler, 


Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Corp’l  Marines. 

Officers’  Steward. 

Carpenter’s  Mate. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Officers’  Cook. 

Quarter-Master. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Gunner’s  Mate. 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Officers’  Steward. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 


Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 
Relief. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  transferred  to  Falmouth  at 
Callao. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Cape  Town ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Fort 
George,  Columbia  river. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  October  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  sent  home  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States,-  run  at 
Sydney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  out 
the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  out 
the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Oahu, 
Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  out  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  served  out  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio;  lost  in  the  Sea-Gull. 

Joined  at  Sydney;  discharged  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  served  out  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  discharged  same  place. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  out 
the  cruise. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN.  xlv 


John  Francis, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Rio. 

James  Fritz, 

Qr.  Gunner. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 

Stephen  Fosdick, 

Gunner’s  Mate. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Robert  Furman, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  31st  Oct.  1840. 

Theodore  French, 

Ship’s  Cook. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
5th  August,  1839. 

Ivinnard  Foreman, 

Sailmaker’s  Mate. 

Joined  at  Callao;  returned  to  United  States 

in  the  Relief. 

Isaac  Frietus, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Madeira,;  discharged  March 
31st,  1840. 

Robert  Fletcher, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Vincent  Frietus, 

2d  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Valparaiso. 

William  Finney, 

Landsman. 

Joined  at  Callao;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joseph  Francis, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  discharged  at  same  place. 

Henry  Gross, 

Officers’  Cook. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Oahu. 

I/rMAN  Gaylard, 

Carpenter’s  Mate.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Sydney. 

William  Gillan, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Matthew  Garrigan, 

Landsman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief. 

James  H.  Gibson, 

Cockswain. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  H.  Grey, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Oahu. 

James  Graham, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Griem, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  transferred 
to  the  Independence. 

James  Green, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Barney  Gibbons, 

Landsman. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Valparaiso. 

Francis  Garrison, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run,  April  9th,  1840. 

Madison  Green, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joseph  M’Gomey, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao;  discharged  at  Oahu, 
Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Henry  Greenfield, 

Boatsn’s  Mate. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

VOL.  I. 


M 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


xlvi 


Daniel  Green, 

Gunner’s  Mate. 

Thomas  Green, 

Quarter-Master. 

Nathaniel  Goodhue, 

Capt.  Fore-top. 

John  P.  Grifeen, 

Seaman. 

Ludwig  Graves, 
Robert  Goodwin, 
Thomas  Gorden, 
Griffith  Griffith, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Top. 

Fergus  Gallagher, 

Cooper. 

John  Gaunt, 

Seaman. 

Domingo  Gonzalez, 
John  A.  Gardner, 
Moses  Galchell, 

John  Gorden, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Quarter-Master. 

John  Gillin, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ezra  Green,  • 

Yeoman. 

Joseph  Gundy, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

John  Green, 

Boatsn’s  Mate. 

William  Goodman, 
John  Glover, 

Manuel  Guido, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Top. 

2d  Class  Boy. 

James  Grey, 

Pilot. 

Edwin  FIubbard, 

Seaman. 

Thomas  Harden, 

Officers’  Cook. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Callao;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home 
sick  from  Madeira. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  returned  in  the  Relief. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Callao;  run  at  Tahiti. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Rio. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Madeira;  returned  to  United 
States  in  the  Relief. 

Joined  at  Tongatabood;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  13,  1840, 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 


cruise. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


xlvii 


James  Harrison, 

John  Harmon, 

John  Harmon, 

William  Hyde, 

Lewis  Herron, 

James  Henderson, 

Lyranus  Hatch, 

Henry  Hughes, 

Henry  R.  Heyer, 

Henry  Hudson, 

Lawrence  Hufford, 

James  Haskins, 

James  Haggerty, 

William  H.  Hicks, 

Royal  Hope, 

John  Harris, 

Chas.  E.  Horniston, 
David  Haining, 
Antonio  Hernandez, 
Wm.  Hutchinson, 
Winslow  F.  Higgins, 
John  Hall, 

John  Hellender, 
George  Husted, 

Jacob  Harrid, 


Officers’  Steward. 
Capt.  Forecastle. 
Seaman. 

Carpenter’s  Mate. 
Cooper. 

Quarter-Master. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Quarter-Master. 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Landsman. 

Landsman. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Officers’  Steward. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 
Quarter-Master. 

Seaman. 


Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Madeira. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  New  Zealand. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home 
in  the  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  sent  home  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Valparaiso. 

Joined  at  Rio;  lost  in  the  Sea-Gull. 

Joined  at  Callao;  discharged  at  California. 

Joined  at  Hawaii;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Cape  Town;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Callao. 


LIST  or  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


xlviii 


Samuel  Hobsen, 

Armourer. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

Edward  Hill, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 

Robinson  Hicks, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Sydney. 

John  Hughes, 

2d  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  Callao;  run  at  Oahu. 

John  Haggerty, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Upolu;  run  at  Sydney. 

John  Harrison, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  run  at  Singapore. 

Asa  Hart, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Emanuel  Howard, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Harman, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Arthur  Hughes, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Amos  Howell, 

Capt.  Hold. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home 
from  Rio,  sick. 

John  C.  Head, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Wm.  P.  Hefferman, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

James  G.  Hanbttry, 

Hosp.  Steward. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Santo  Hercules, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
in  New  Zealand. 

Samuel  B.  Holt, 

Capt.  Hold. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  October  31st,  1840. 

James  Hunt, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Benjamin  Holden, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  Cal¬ 
lao,  July  8th,  1839. 

Alvin  Harris, 

Sailmaker’s  Mate. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Nathaniel  Harris, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged 
at  New  Zealand,  31st  March,  1840. 

William  Hayes, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  Hayes, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


xlix 


Henry  Hammond, 

Quarter-Master. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Lewis  ITanson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao;  discharged  at  Sydney, 
Dec.  16th,  1839. 

Thomas  Hines, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 

Francis  G.  Huggins, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Sandwich  Islands;  served  the 
cruise. 

William  Jarrett, 

Master-at-Arms. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  October  31st,  1840. 

William  Johnson, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 
the  Relief. 

Archibald  Jackson, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Francis  Joseph, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Thomas  Jones, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief. 

Francis  Johnson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio;  sent  home  in  the  Relief. 

Robert  Johnson, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio;  lost  in  the  Sea-Gull. 

William  Jones,  1st, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  the  same  place. 

John  Joseph, 

Capt.’s  Steward. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 

William  Jones, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 

Charles  Jorff, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 

David  Jones, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 

William  Jewell, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840, 

William  Jeffries, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Rio. 

Samuel  J.  Jordon, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Sydney;  run  at  same  place. 

A.  Jacquinot, 

Ass’t  Sc.  Corps. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Callao. 

Warren  Johnson, 

Officers’  Steward.  Joined  at  Oahu ;  run  at  Fort  George, 
Oregon. 

John  Jones, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  served  the  cruise. 

Thomas  Jefferson, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

Daniel  Jefferson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

Henry  Johnson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 

Elijah  King, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

VOL.  I. 

N 

1 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND 


MEN. 


Thomas  Kennedy, 
Stephen  Knight, 

Seaman. 

Ship’s  Cook. 

Charles  Knowles, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Richard  King, 

Wm.  H.  King, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Corp.  Marines. 

Charles  Kingsland, 
Allen  W.  Kirby, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Hold. 

John  Kellum, 

Quarter-Master. 

Samuel  Keenan, 

Seaman. 

John  Kedd, 

Seaman. 

John  King, 

Seaman. 

Joseph  Limont, 

Seaman. 

Francis  Linthicum, 

Cockswain. 

Godfrey  Letourno, 

Seaman. 

Peter  Lewis, 

John  Latty, 

Wm.  J.  Lester, 

Wm.  Lawrence, 

David  Leavitt, 

Charles  Lear, 
Lawrence  Littleyear, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
1st  Class  Boy. 
Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 

Private. 

Charles  Lowe, 

Seaman. 

William  Lloyd, 

Capt.  Top. 

William  Lowe, 

John  Lewis, 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  the  same  place. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Upolu ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Maui;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  discharged  same  place. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


li 


Washington  Lyner, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Rio. 

Henry  Luther, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Valparaiso. 

John  Lennard, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio;  sent  to  United  States  in 
Relief. 

William  Lee, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao;  run  at  Sydney. 

James  Leavett, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Peter  Lines, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Wm.  S.  Longley, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Bernard  Logan, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

Horace  Lamson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  sent  to  United 
States  in  Relief. 

James  Lowell, 

Capt.  Forecastle. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Loyd, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

William  Loyd, 

Landsman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief. 

Laurence  M’Gill, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Ma¬ 
nilla. 

Wm.  M’Donald, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Henry  Mabee, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Daniel  M’Carty, 

Quarter- Gunner. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 

Francis  Montserat, 

Officers’  Steward 

.  Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  Moran, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

John  M’Keen, 

Ship’s  Cook. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Myres, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Thomas  M’Manus, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 


lii 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


Wm,  Miller,  1st, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

John  Mattox, 
Alexander  M’Donald, 

Seaman. 

Landsman. 

Wm.  Miller,  2d, 

Justin  Mandon, 

Andrew  Murray, 
Joseph  Medley, 

Edward  MTntire, 

James  M’Kenzie, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Captain’s  Cook. 
Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Private. 

Samuel  More, 

Capt,  Top. 

Peter  M’Fee, 

John  H.  Myres, 

Thomas  Mizir, 

Arthur  M’Gill, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
2d  Class  Boy. 

1st  Class  Boy. 
Seaman. 

Frank  Mackey, 

Robert  Munroe, 

John  Munroe, 

Bernard  M’Gee, 

Lewis  Meaker, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

William  Migley, 

Quarter-Gunner. 

John  Meiney, 

Master-at-Arms. 

George  Mitchell, 
Theodore  Mather, 
Edward  Mott, 

Hugh  M’Bride, 

John  C.  March, 

Quarter-Master. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Private. 

James  M’Cormick, 

Seaman. 

Michael  Miller, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  lost  in  the 
Sea-Gull. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Callao. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Sydney;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Cape  Town;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Nov.  20th,  1841. 

Joined  at  Callao;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Tahiti ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Upolu;  discharged  at  Oahu, 
Nov.  20th,  1841. 

Joined  at  Rio;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Callao;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  discharged  at  Oahu, 
25th  Nov.  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Upolu ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  sea, 
15th  August,  1839. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


liii 


David  Miller, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

James  Marshall, 

Seaman. 

William  Moody, 

Quarter-Master. 

John  More, 

Seaman. 

Thomas  Martin, 

Landsman. 

John  Mitchell, 
Stephen  Morant, 

Earl  Millikin, 

Jack  Miller, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Quarter- Gunner . 

Seaman. 

James  Nowland, 

Capt.  Top. 

William  Norton, 

Seaman. 

Edward  Nichols, 

John  Nebhut, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Private. 

Horatio  Nelson, 

Seaman. 

Nelson  Norton, 

Capt.  Top, 

William  Noble, 

Seaman. 

Thomas  Noble, 
George  Nichols, 
Joseph  Neale, 

Chas.  H.  Nicholson, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Officers’  Cook. 

Seaman. 

William  Neill, 

Quarter-Master. 

Andrew  Nordston, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

James  Nurse, 

Officers’  Steward 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Sandwich  Islands;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 
Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 

Joined  at  Cape  Town;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Valpa¬ 
raiso. 

Joined  at  Rio;  sent  home  in  the  Relief. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Nov.  25th,  1841. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

.  Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  discharged  at 
Rio,  Dec.  3d,  1838. 


VOL.  i. 


o 


Benjamin  Norton, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Thomas  Nisbet, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Singapore,  served  the  cruise. 

William  Orr, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Alexander  Ogle, 

Corp.  Marines. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  died  at  sea, 
Aug.  12th,  1839. 

John  Orr, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Ambrose  W.  Olivar, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Daniel  Osmand, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Val¬ 
paraiso. 

David  B.  Park, 

Sailmaker’s  Mate.  Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

Thomas  Piner, 

Quarter-Master. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 

cruise. 

George  Porter, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  sea, 
March  3d,  1842. 

Benjamin  Pulmar, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Thomas  Parker, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Sydney. 

William  Pearson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 

Calvin  Proctor, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 

James  Perry, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

George  Parker, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Thomas  Penny, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Oahu. 

James  M.  Pottle, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Val¬ 
paraiso. 

James  Patterson, 

Landsman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

Samuel  Pensyl, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Robert  Pully, 

Quarter-Master. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Polnell, 

Quarter- Gunner. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  Potter, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 

LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


lv 


George  Parmilla, 

James  Quin, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 

Charles  Ray, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Wm.  Roberts, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Theodore  Rameris, 

Oi'd’y  Seaman. 

Joseph  Reeves, 

Quarter-Master. 

William  Robinson, 

Seaman. 

W illiam  Robbin, 

Quarter-Master. 

Michael  Ryan, 
William  Robb, 

John  Rivers, 

John  Roach, 

Abraham  Roberts, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

1st  Class  Boy. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Landsman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

George  Rocket, 

Landsman. 

James  Rock, 

John  Radley, 

George  Robinson, 
Edgar  A.  Richardson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 
Private. 

Owen  Roberts, 

Private. 

George  Rodgers, 

Private. 

John  Robinson, 

Capt.  Forecastle. 

Humphrey  Roberts, 
Matthias  Roach, 
Morris  Russel, 

Elias  Russel, 

Armourer. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Landsman. 

Ship’s  Cook. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Val¬ 
paraiso. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio;  lost  in  the  Sea-Gull. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  California. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Maui ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Rio. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at 
Callao. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


lvi 


John  Rye, 

Seaman. 

John  Riley, 

Private. 

Wm.  Richmond, 

Boatsn’s  Mate. 

John  D.  Richardson, 

Cooper. 

Joseph  Rebo, 

James  G.  Rowe, 

2d  Class  Boy. 
Seaman. 

George  Reynolds, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Raymond  Reed, 

Nelson  Ransom, 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

George  Smith, 

Seaman. 

William  J.  Smith, 

Quarter-Master. 

Thomas  Sinclair, 

Seaman. 

James  Straham, 

Seaman. 

John  Sac, 

Seaman. 

David  Smith, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

James  Sheaf, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

John  W.  Smith, 

Seaman. 

Edward  Soijthworth, 

Quarter-Master. 

Allen  Simons, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

James  Smith,  1st, 

Seaman. 

John  Smith,  1st, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  sea, 
Aug.  22d,  1839. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Sandwich  Islands ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Rio,  Nov.  28th,  1838. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 
Sydney,  19th  March,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Val¬ 
paraiso. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  run  at  Rio. 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


Ivii 


John  Smith,  2d, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

James  Smith,  2d, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

John  Small, 

Baker. 

William  Soule, 

Moses  J.  Smith, 

Wm.  H.  Spencer, 
Frederick  Seymore, 
George  Staunton, 
Peter  Sweeny, 

Landsman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

James  Scott, 

James  Stover, 

Thomas  Simmons, 

Joseph  Silvey, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Michael  Spiney, 
William  Smith,  2d, 

Seaman. 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Simeon  Stearns, 

Ord’y  Sergeant. 

William  Smith, 

John  H.  Stevens, 
Charles  C.  Sherwood, 
Antonio  Sylvester, 
William  Steward, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Top. 

Peter  Shaw, 

William  Slater, 
Francis  Salsbury, 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Capt.  Top. 

Frank  Stitii, 

Officers’  Steward. 

Thomas  Scott, 

Quarter- Master. 

Benjamin  Stevens, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  lost  in  the 
Sea-Gull. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  lost  in  the 
Sea-Gull. 

Joined  at  Rio;  discharged  at  New  Zea¬ 
land. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Sydney  ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand  ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand  ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Hawaii ;  run  at  same  place. 

Joined  at  Maui;  died  at  sea,  April  19th, 
1842. 

Joined  at  Oahu;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  discharged  at  same 
place. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  drowned  at  Feejee. 

Joined  at  Tahiti ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  same  place. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  died  at  sea, 
11th  March,  1839. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  returned  in 
the  Relief. 


VOL.  i. 


p 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


lviii 

Hendrick  Smith, 

Samuel  Steward, 
John  Smith, 
George  Seabold, 
Robert  Steward, 
James  Spear, 

James  Sweeny, 
John  Smith, 

Simon  Shepherd, 

James  De  Sauls, 
Benj.  Somerndyke, 

John  Smith, 

George  Sharrock, 
Robert  Spears, 

Samuel  Sutton, 

John  Strafford, 
George  Smith, 

Thomas  Sand  ford, 

W illiam  Smith, 

John  Steward, 

Samuel  Stretch, 

David  M.  Smith, 

Wm.  Schenck, 

Thomas  Scarpa, 
Henry  Sayres, 


Ord’y  Seaman. 

Landsman. 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Armourer. 

Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ship’s  Cook. 
Carpenter’s  Mate. 

Private. 

Carpenter’s  Mate. 
Capt.  Top. 

Seaman. 

Seaman. 

Private. 

Quarter-Gunner. 

Yeoman. 

Ship’s  Cook. 
Gunner’s  Mate. 

Armourer. 

Carpenter’s  Mate. 

Officers’  Steward. 
Capt.  Top. 


Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Nov.  2d,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  run  at  Aurora  Island. 

Joined  at  Rio;  run  at  Aurora  Island. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  run  at  Sydney. 

Joined  at  Sydney  ;  run  at  Oahu. 

Joined  at  Feejee  Islands,  discharged  at 
same  place. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Callao  ;  run  at  Astoria. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  at  Rio ;  discharged  at  same  place. 

Joined  at  Callao;  served  the  cruise. 


lix 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


James  Stark, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  discharged  at  Sydney, 
Dec.  15th,  1839. 

Henry  Stephens, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  Sydney ;  run  at  New  Zealand. 

Thomas  Siior, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  the  Sandwich  Islands;  served 

the  cruise. 

George  Stjdor, 

Quarter-Master. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home 

in  the  Relief. 

Richard  Terry, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  lost  in  the 

Sea-Gull. 

Henry  Turner, 

Capt.  Forecastle. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  Townsend, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

George  Treble, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Matthew  Thompson, 

Capt.  Top. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief. 

Henry  Tubor, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Thompson,  1st, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

John  Thompson,  3d, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  Sydney;  run  at  same  place. 

Samuel  Taber, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 

John  Track, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  discharged  same  place. 

Ashton  Taylor, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

David  Thomas, 

Officers’  Cook. 

Joined  at  Feejee  Islands ;  served  the  cruise. 

Abijaii  Traverse, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 

Edward  Townsend, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Henry  Thompson, 

Landsman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Callao. 

Humphrey  Thomas, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Upolu;  run  at  Sydney. 

John  Thompson,  2d, 

Capt.  Forecastle. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Wm.  W.  Turner, 

Quarter- Gunner. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Charles  Thomas, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Syd¬ 
ney. 

Edwin  Tiiene, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 


lx 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


William  Thompson, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

William  Teneycke, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home 
in  the  Relief. 

Charles  Truelare, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

John  Undietch, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

John  Yancleck, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Edward  Verry, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

John  Yanderveer, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  sent  home  in  the 
Relief. 

Antonia  Vines, 

Officers’  Steward. 

Joined  at  Callao ;  sent  home  in  the  Relief. 

George  Wesson, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  Wilkinson, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Samuel  Williams, 

Gunner’s  Mate. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Daniel  Wright, 

Cockswain. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

Edward  Widdows, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 
Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

James  C.  Walfe, 

Quarter-Gunner. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Benjamin  Webb, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  Oct.  31st,  1840. 

Robert  Willis, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 

Thomas  Wilson, 

Sailmaker’s  Mate. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Horace  Wister, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Oahu,  March  31st,  1841. 

Henry  Waltham, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Mark  Widden, 

Landsman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


Ixi 


Philip  Williams, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  returned  in 

the  Relief. 

Nicholas  Whiteston, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Rio  ;  lost  in  the  Sea-Gull. 

Josiah  Weaver, 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  New  Zealand;  run  at  Oahu. 

Thomas  Wilkins, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Charles  W illis, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu  ;  run  at  Hawaii. 

Zaccheus  Wheeler, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Oahu ;  served  the  cruise. 

John  Weller, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Cape  Town;  served  the  cruise. 

Michael  Ward, 

Private. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  Williams, 

Landsman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  sent  home 

in  the  Relief 

John  A.  Weaver, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 

William  White, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Jedediah  Wilber, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  at  Callao  ;  served  the  cruise. 

John  Williams, 

2d  Class  Boy. 

Joined  at  Sydney  ;  served  the  cruise. 

Thomas  L.  Williams, 

Seaman. 

Joined  at  Upolu  ;  served  the  cruise. 

John  White,  2d, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Rio. 

Stephen  Winks, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Rio. 

William  Wells, 

Yeoman. 

Joined  at  Valparaiso;  served  the  cruise. 

George  Williams, 

Boatsn’s  Mate. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

James  White, 

Capt.  Forecastle. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Kembal  Whitney, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

John  Wilson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  run  at  Cali¬ 
fornia. 

Aaron  Walmsley, 

Serg’nt  Marines. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Daniel  Wiiitehorn, 

Quarter-Gunner. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 

cruise. 

Noah  Wyetii, 

Quarter-Master. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  discharged 
at  Rio,  Dec.  31st,  1838. 

Joseph  Wilson, 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  run  at  Rio. 

Peter  Welsh, 

Seaman. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief 

William  Wilson, 

Quarter-Master. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  sent  home  in 

the  Relief 

VOL.  I. 


Q 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  MEN. 


lxii 

Henry  0.  Williams, 

Michael  Williams, 

Francis  Williams, 

Thomas  Wallace, 

Jack  Williams, 

William  York, 

Henry  Young,  1st, 
Henry  Young,  2d, 


Landsman. 

Seaman. 

Boatsn’s  Mate. 

1st  Class  Boy. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 

Ord’y  Seaman. 
Ord’y  Seaman. 


Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States;  served  the 
cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States  ;  sent  home  in 
the  Relief. 

Joined  at  Hawaii;  served  the  cruise. 

Joined  in  the  United  States ;  discharged  at 
New  Zealand. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

VOLUME  I. 


PLATES. 

Portrait  of  Commander  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  Painted  by  T.  Sully.  En¬ 
graved  by  R.  W.  Dodson,  title 

Estroza  Pass.  Drawn  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  3 

Heatii  Forest.  Drawn  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  14 

Patagonian.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  Rawdon,  Wright 

and  Hatch,  95 

Fuegian.  Drawn  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  Jordan  and  Halpin,  123 

Lima  Gateway.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  A.  Halbert,  235 

La  Vinda  Mountain.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  Rawdon,  Wright 

and  Hatch,  266 

Ba.nos,  Peru.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  Rawdon,  Wright 

and  Hatch,  272 


VIGNETTES. 


Curral.  Drawn  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  W.  E.  Tucker,  13 

Porto  Praya.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by  W.  H. 

Ellis,  31 

Corcovado.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by  Smillie 

and  Hinchelwood,  68 

Parhelion.  Sketched  by  J.  B.  Dale,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by  W.  H. 

Dougal,  112 

Orange  Haruour.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  D.  Kimberly,  124 

Fuegians  and  Canoe.  Drawn  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  W.  H.  Dougal,  127 

Porpoise  and  Schooner.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by  Jordan 

and  Halpin, 

# 


142 


Ixiv 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Cordilleras. 

Market-Place. 

VlGA  OF  THE  CoNCON. 
Amancaes. 


Drawn  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  V.  Balch,  183 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J,  F.  E.  Prud- 

homme,  187 

Sketched  by  J.  P.  Couthouy.  Engraved  by  M.  Osborne,  193 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J.  N.  Gimbrede,  252 


Cooking  at  Casa  Cancha.  Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  E.  G.  Dunnel,  268 


Low  Coral  Island. 
High  Coral  Island. 
Dean’s  Island. 


Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  W.  H.  Tappan,  323 
Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  M.  Osborne,  351 
Drawn  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  W.  H.  Tappan,  356 


Madeira  Sledge. 

Peasant’s  House. 

Wine-Carriers. 

Wine-Press. 

Madeira  Boat. 
Watering-Place. 

Coffee-Carriers. 

Music. 

Mina. 

Tattooings. 

Ashantee. 

Tattooings. 

Mundjola. 

Tattooings. 

Benguelan. 

Congo  Negro. 

Kasanji. 

Tattooing. 

Makuan. 

Takwani. 

Caffre  Proper. 


WOOD-CUTS. 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.*  Engraved  by  F.  E.  Wor¬ 
cester,  10 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.*  Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,  20 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.*  Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,  22 

Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.*  Engraved  by  F.  E. 


Worcester,  23 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  26 

Sketched  by  J.  B.  Dale,  U.  S.  N.f  Engraved  by  R.  H. 

Pease,  44 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.*  Engraved  by  F.  E.  Wor¬ 
cester,  55 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton,  56 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  57 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton  and  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by 

B.  F.  Childs,  58 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  59 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton  and  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved 

by  B.  F.  Childs,  59 

Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  61 
Sketched  by  J.  Drayton  and  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved 

by  B.  F.  Childs,  61 


Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  62 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  62 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  63 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  63 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  64 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  65 

Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  65 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS,  lXy 

Tattooings.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  B.  F.  Childs,  65 

Nyambana.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  66 

Mudjana.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  66 

Slaves  Sleeping.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.*  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  78 

Palace.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler,  92 

Estancia.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.*  Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,  99 

Guacho.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.*  Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,  105 

Mirage.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by  R.  H. 

Pease,  113 

Mirage.  Sketched  by  T.  R.  Peale.  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  113 

Patagonians.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate. f  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  118 

Fuegian  Paddles.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  119 

Native  Fuegian.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.J  Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,  123 

Fuegian  Hut.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  F.  E.  Wor¬ 
cester,  128 

Music.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton,  129 

Music.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton,  131 

Native  Hut.  Sketched  by  J.  A.  Underwood,  U.  S.  N.J  Engraved  by 

J.  H.  Brightly,  133 

Height  of  Waves.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by  B.  F. 

Childs,  139 

Cape  Horn.  Sketched  by  J.  B.  Dale,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by  R.  H. 

Pease,  150 

Relief  at  Noir  Island.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  166 

Music.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton,  173 

Taking  Grass  to  Market.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.f  Engraved  by  R.  H. 

Pease,  177 

Peasant’s  House.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  184 

Ox-Cart.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  214 

Stirrups,  Spurs,  &c.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.f  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  232 

Hearse.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.f  Engraved  by  J.  H. 

Brightly,  247 

Pizarro’s  Autograph.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Manning,  249 

Gateway,  Lima.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  F.  E.  Wor¬ 
cester,  254 

Lima  House.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  258 

Plan  or  Pasco.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  275 

Temple,  Pachacamac.  Sketched  by  J.  A.  Underwood,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by 

B.  F.  Childs,  289 


Ixvi  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Ground  Plan  of  Paciiacamac.  Sketched  by  J.  A.  Underwood,  U.  S.  N.  En¬ 
graved  by  B.  F.  Childs,  290 

Church  at  Banos.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  O’Brien,  291 

Fountain,  Lima.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  315 

Section  of  Coral  Island.  Sketched  by  C.  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.  Engraved  by 

J.  H.  Brightly,  329 

Canoe.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  O’Brien,  331 

Head  of  Native.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  332 

Natives.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.-)-  Engraved  by  O’Brien,  334 

Native  Hut.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.f  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  336 

Tattooing.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  339 

Double  Canoe.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J.  J.  Butler,  340 

One-Handed  Chief.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  342 

Native  of  Paumotu  Group.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.')'  Engraved  by  J.  H. 

Brightly,  346 

Coral  Blocks.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  R.  H.  Pease,  348 

Costume.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  R.  S.  Gilbert,  353 

Trading  Canoe.  Sketched  by  A.  T.  Agate.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  359 

Diagram  of  Survey.  Sketched  by  J.  Drayton.  Engraved  by  J.  H.  Brightly,  452 

MAPS. 

Paumotu  Group.  Engraved  by  Smith,  307 

Those  marked  with  a  #,  were  drawn  on  the  wood  by  F.  0.  C.  Darley;  those  marked 
with  a  t,  by  J.  H.  Manning;  those  marked  with  a  by  W.  G.  Armstrong.  Those  not 
marked,  by  the  Artists  of  the  Expedition. 


NARRATIVE. 


CHAPTER  I. 


CONTENTS. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  UNITED  STATES— VOYAGE  TO  MADEIRA— ARRIVAL  AT  FUNCHAL 
—APPEARANCE  OF  MADEIRA  FROM  THE  SEA— LANDING  AT  FUNCHAL— VISIT  TO  THE 
CIVIL  AND  MILITARY  GOVERNORS— STREETS,  AND  MODE  OF  TRANSPORTATION— CRIMI¬ 
NALS  AND  PRISONS— VILLA  OF  CARVALHAL— CONVENT— RIDES  IN  MADEIRA— CURRAL— 
VISIT  OF  SCIENTIFIC  GENTLEMEN  TO  SAN  VINCENTE— EXCURSION  TOWARDS  THE  EAST 
END  OF  THE  ISLAND-STORY  OF  ITS  DISCOVERY— POPULATION  OF  MADEIRA— WINE- 
GOVERNMENT— CHARACTER  OF  THE  INHABITANTS  — DRESS  — DWELLINGS  — MODE  OF 
TRAVELLING  —  EMPLOYMENTS  OF  THE  PEOPLE  —  WINE-MAKING  —  LOWER  CLASSES  — 
ASCENT  OF  PICO  RUIVO— NATURAL  HISTORY— QUINTA  OF  MR.  BEAN— SCHOONER  STAR 
SAVED  FROM  WRECK— DEPARTURE  FROM  MADEIRA. 


zpjn.ss  B 


NAHKATIYE 

OF 

THE  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  I. 

MADEIRA. 

1  8  38. 

On  the  17th  of  August  I  received  my  sailing  instructions,  and 
final  orders  to  put  to  sea  the  moment  I  was  ready.  The  signal  was 
accordingly  made  that  the  squadron  was  under  sailing  orders. 

At  3  o’clock  p.  m.,  on  the  18th,  the  signal  for  sailing  was  made, 
and  we  got  under  weigh  with  an  ebb  tide,  and  a  light  air  from 
southwest.  At  5  p.  m.  we  anchored  at  the  Horseshoe,  in  consequence 
of  its  falling  calm  and  of  the  tide  making  against  us ;  but  at  9  p.  m. 
the  wind  freshened,  when  we  tripped  and  stood  down  the  bay.  At  4 
a.  m.  on  the  19th,  we  passed  Cape  Henry  Light;  at  9  a.  m.  discharged 
our  pilot  and  took  our  departure. 

At  11  a.  m.  all  hands  were  called  to  muster,  and  divine  service  was 
performed.  The  day  was  beautiful,  the  sea  smooth,  the  wind  light, 
and  the  squadron  around,  with  the  land  sinking  from  our  view.  I 
shall  never  forget  the  impressions  that  crowded  on  me  during  that 
day  in  the  hours  of  service.  It  required  all  the  hope  I  could  muster 
to  outweigh  the  intense  feeling  of  responsibility  that  hung  over  me. 
I  may  compare  it  to  that  of  one  doomed  to  destruction.  We  were 
admonished  in  the  discourse  to  repose  confidence  in  the  aid  and 


4 


MADEIRA. 


protection  of  Him  whom  all  hands  had  been  called  to  worship,  and 
the  admonition  was  well  calculated  to  do  ns  all  good. 

Orders  were  now  given  to  rendezvous,  in  case  of  separation,  at 
Madeira.  It  was  soon  found,  in  the  trial  of  the  sailing  qualities  of 
the  vessels,  that  the  Relief  was  unsuited  to  act  with  the  rest  without 
great  detention,  and  after  four  days  I  determined  to  part  company 
with  her,  giving  her  orders  to  proceed  to  the  Cape  de  Verdes. 

The  novelty  of  our  situation  was  quite  enough  to  interest  all ;  free 
communications  were  had,  and  endeavours  were  made  to  excite  a 
general  interest  in  all  the  objects  that  were  passing  about  us.  It  was 
amusing  to  see  all  entering  into  the  novel  occupation  of  dissecting 
the  fish  taken,  and  to  hear  scientific  names  bandied  about  between 
Jack  and  his  shipmates. 

On  the  25th  I  began  the  trial  of  the  current  with  the  current-log ; 
and  experiments  by  sinking  a  white  object  to  ascertain  the  distance 
to  which  the  solar  light  penetrates  the  sea.  Our  current-log  was 
formed  of  two  small  kegs  with  a  distance-line  between  them  of  five 
fathoms,  and  the  log-line  fastened  to  the  middle  of  it.  One  keg  is 
made  heavy  enough  to  sink  another  air-tight  one  just  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  water,  so  that  we  get  the  current  uninfluenced  by 
wind,  and  all  the  other  circumstances  that  would  affect  the  ship  and 
not  the  surface  current.  I  adopted  for  the  other  experiments  the 
usual  sea  anchor  for  a  boat,  viz.,  an  iron  pot,  painting  the  bottom  of 
it  white.  The  depths  were  noted  when  it  was  lost  sight  of,  and 
when  it  was  again  seen,  and  the  mean  of  these  depths  was  taken  for 
the  result. 

From  our  position  in  latitude  36°  08'  N.,  longitude  71°  24'  W., 
and  the  temperature  of  the  water,  we  knew  we  were  on  the  edge  of 
the  Gulf  Stream;  and  we  experienced  what  I  presume  has  been 
called  the  eddy  current.  It  was  found  setting  to  the  west  and 
northwest,  but  ought  more  properly  to  be  termed  an  indraught  to 
the  Stream.  I  am  little  disposed  to  believe  that  a  southerly  current 
exists,  as  has  been  reported,  like  the  inner  one.  We  had  a  fine 
opportunity  of  examining  the  temperature  of  the  Stream,  as  we 
crossed  it  at  right  angles  to  its  course,  and  the  thermometer  was 
observed  hourly  while  making  little  progress  through  the  water :  the 
maximum  temperature  of  the  water  was  found  to  be  83°,  and  width 
of  the  Stream  about  fifty-three  miles;  much  information  might  be 
acquired  by  a  series  of  experiments  in  the  Gulf  Stream,  which  would 
tend  to  perfect  the  navigation  and  shorten  the  passage  between  the 


MADEIRA. 


5 


ports  on  onr  coast.  It  is  to  be  hoped  it  will  claim  the  attention  of 
those  engaged  on  the  coast  survey. 

On  the  25th  of  August  onr  winds  became  favourable,  and  we 
were  enabled  to  lay  onr  course  towards  Madeira.  I  continued  to 
keep  the  direction  of  the  Gulf  Stream  towards  the  Western  Islands. 
We  felt  its  influence  until  we  reached  the  longitude  of  48°  W.,  and 
found  it  to  set  for  the  last  few  days  to  the  northward  of  east.  The 
temperature  gradually  decreased  from  83°  to  75°.  The  winds  had 
been  light,  and  the  sea  smooth,  indicating  no  other  impulse  than  the 
flow  of  the  Stream. 

On  the  night  of  the  26th  we  parted  company  with  the  Peacock 
and  Flying-Fish  in  a  squall,  and  did  not  again  meet  them  until  we 
reached  Madeira. 

On  the  2d  September  we  spoke  a  brig  from  Salem  on  a  whaling 
voyage. 

On  the  5th  of  September,  being  near  the  reported  shoal  of  St. 
Anne,  I  determined  to  pass  over  its  position. 

On  the  6th  we  passed  over  it,  the  sea  was  smooth,  the  horizon 
clear,  and  the  day  beautiful.  At  8  a.  m.  the  look-out  cried  out 
“  Rocks,  or  a  wreck  on  the  starboard  bow,”  which  at  once  created 
an  excitement  on  board.  We  stood  for  it.  It  had  at  first  every 
appearance  of  a  rock,  then  that  of  a  wreck  with  the  masts  gone.  It 
proved,  however,  to  be  a  large  tree  of  cotton-wood,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  in  length,  and  fourteen  feet  in  circumference  at  the 
height  of  five  feet  above  the  roots.  It  had  been  a  long  time  in  the 
water,  was  full  of  barnacles,  and  much  eaten  by  the  teredo  navalis. 
Great  quantities  of  fish  were  about  it,  consisting  of  dolphins,  sharks, 
&c.  We  did  not,  however,  succeed  in  taking  any.  In  rough 
weather  it  might  easily  have  been  mistaken  for  a  rock,  particularly 
if  passed  in  the  twilight,  or  at  night.  There  is  little  doubt  in  my 
mind  that  many  of  the  numerous  vigias  that  appear  on  our  charts 
have  as  little  foundation.  No  current  was  experienced  hereabouts, 
and  I  am  led  to  the  conclusion  that  a  sort  of  eddy  or  still  water  is 
here  found,  wherein  most  of  the  wood  carried  by  the  Gulf  Stream 
becomes  deposited  for  a  time. 

On  the  8th,  longitude  34°  08'  W.,  latitude  37°  17'  N.,  the  current 
was  found  setting  to  the  southward  and  westward. 

In  consequence  of  the  wind  being  from  the  southward  and 
westward,  I  was  compelled,  after  making  the  Peak  of  Pico,  to  go 
to  the  northward  of  St.  Michael’s.  I  am  satisfied,  however,  it  is 


VOL.  I. 


2 


6 


MADEIRA. 


much  better  to  keep  to  the  southward,  as  the  wind  will  be  found 
more  steady  and  stronger.  Besides,  the  current,  at  that  season  of 
the  year,  sets  to  the  westward. 

As  we  passed  St.  Michael’s,  we  amused  ourselves  by  a  view, 
through  our  glasses,  of  its  villas,  groves,  and  cultivated  fields. 

On  the  night  of  the  13th  we  laid  by,  just  after  passing  the  north 
end  of  St.  Michael’s,  in  order  to  examine  the  position  of  the  Tullock 
Reef  by  daylight.  We  passed  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  its 
reported  position,  but  saw  nothing  of  it,  although  the  sea  was 
running  sufficiently  high  to  have  made  a  heavy  break  on  it,  if  it 
did  exist. 

On  the  15th,  as  we  were  making  sail,  George  Porter,  one  of  our 
maintop-men,  in  loosing  the  top-gallant  sail,  was  caught  by  the 
buntline,  and  dragged  over  the  yard,  where  he  was  seen  to  hang,  as 
it  were  quite  lifeless,  swinging  to  and  fro  by  the  neck. 

On  the  alarm  being  given,  two  men  ran  aloft  to  his  assistance.  It 
now  became  doubtful  on  deck  whether  they  would  not  be  all  dragged 
over  by  the  weight  of  his  body,  until  several  others  gave  assistance 
and  relieved  them.  It  caused  a  breathless  anxiety  to  us  all  to  see  a 
fellow-being  in  the  momentary  expectation  that  he  would  be  dashed 
to  the  deck.  He  was  fortunately  rescued  and  brought  below  yet 
living.  Here  he  speedily  came  to  his  senses,  and  recollecting  that 
the  drum  had  rolled  to  grog  just  before  his  accident,  he,  sailor-like, 
asked  for  his  portion  of  it.  It  was  truly  a  providential  escape. 
This  young  man  died  on  our  way  home  in  the  China  Seas,  of  an 
inflammatory  fever. 

On  the  16th  we  made  the  island  of  Madeira,  and  having  a  strong 
westerly  wind,  I  determined  to  pass  to  Funchal,  on  its  southern 
side.  This  may  be  done  at  this  season,  but  vessels  bound  to  that 
port  usually  prefer  going  round  the  eastern  point  of  the  island. 
When  off  the  western  point  of  Madeira  we  experienced  a  very  long 
heavy  swell,  which  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  trying  the  velocity  of 
the  waves,  by  noting  the  time  the  same  wave  was  passing  between 
the  vessels.  The  result  gave  twenty-three  miles  per  hour,  but  I 
was  not  altogether  satisfied  with  it.  It  was  difficult  to  measure  the 
correct  angle  subtended  by  the  Porpoise’s  masts  for  the  distance, 
on  account  of  the  motion  of  both  vessels.  The  measurement  of 
the  height  of  the  waves  I  found  still  more  difficult,  and  the  results 
varied  too  much  to  place  confidence  in  them,  principally  owing  to 
each  succeeding  swell  or  wave  being  less  than  the  preceding  one. 


MADEIRA. 


7 


The  different  observations  gave  from  twenty-five  to  fourteen  feet ;  the 
width  of  the  wave  from  the  same  causes  was  equally  variable,  and 
each  successive  result  varied  from  that  which  preceded  it. 

Before  sunset,  we  cast  anchor  in  company  with  the  Porpoise  and 
Sea-Gull,  and  were  the  next  morning  joined  by  the  Peacock  and 
Flying-Fish. 

Shortly  after  coming  to  anchor,  we  were  boarded  by  the  health 
officer,  with  the  captain  of  the  port,  who,  on  being  assured  of  our 
good  health,  gave  us  permission  to  land.  The  United  States’  Consul, 
Henry  John  Burden,  Esq.,  also  came  on  board,  and  kindly  offered 
us  all  the  attention  that  lay  in  his  power. 

At  night,  there  was  a  general  illumination  of  the  churches,  and 
the  constant  ringing  of  the  bells  added  much  to  the  excitement  of 
many  on  board,  and  told  us  we  had  reached  foreign  shores. 

The  first  appearance  of  Madeira  did  not  come  up  to  the  idea  we 
had  formed  of  its  beauties  from  the  glowing  description  of  travellers. 
It  exhibited  nothing  to  the  distant  view,  but  a  bare  and  broken  rock 
of  huge  dimensions,  which,  though  grand  and  imposing,  is  peculiarly 
dark  and  gloomy,  and  it  was  not  until  we  had  made  our  way  close 
under  the  land  that  we  could  discover  the  green  patches  which  are 
every  where  scattered  over  its  dark  red  soil,  even  to  the  tops  of  the 
highest  peaks. 

The  mountain  verdure  was  afterwards  discovered  to  be  owing  to 
groves  of  heath  and  broom,  which  grow  to  an  extraordinary  height, 
aspiring  to  the  stature  of  forest  trees.  In  addition  to  these  groves, 
the  terraced  acclivities,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  tropical  vegetation, 
change  on  a  closer  approach  its  distant  barren  aspect  into  one  of 
extreme  beauty  and  fertility. 

The  most  striking  peculiarity  in  the  mountain  scenery,  is  the 
jagged  outline  of  the  ridge,  the  rudely  shaped  towers,  and  sharp 
pyramids  of  rock,  which  appear  elevated  on  the  tops  and  sides  of 
the  highest  peaks  as  well  as  on  the  lower  elevations,  and  the  deep 
precipitous  gorges  which  cut  through  the  highest  mountains  almost 
to  their  very  base. 

The  shores  of  the  island  are  mostly  lofty  cliffs,  occasionally  facing 
the  water  with  a  perpendicular  front  one  or  two  thousand  feet  in 
height.  The  cliffs  are  interrupted  by  a  few  small  bays,  where  a 
richly  cultivated  valley  approaches  the  water  between  abrupt  preci¬ 
pices,  or  surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  rugged  hills.  These 
narrow  bays  are  the  sites  of  the  villages  of  Madeira. 


8 


MADEIRA. 


As  we  sailed  along  from  its  western  end,  we  occasionally  saw  in 
these  quiet  and  peaceful  situations,  small  white-walled  villages;  each 
with  its  little  church  at  the  outlet  of  the  gorges.  We  were  particu¬ 
larly  struck  with  that  of  the  Camera  de  Lobos,  a  few  miles  to  the 
westward  of  Santa  Cruz  hill.  This  is  the  largest  and  is  the  most 
interesting  of  any,  from  its  having  been  the  first  point  settled  by 
Europeans.  The  high  precipices  were  new  to  us  Americans;  so 
different  from  what  we  are  accustomed  to  in  the  United  States. 
The  scene  was  still  more  striking,  and  our  attention  was  more 
forcibly  arrested  when  passing  under  cliffs  of  some  sixteen  hundred 
feet  above  us.  We  were  so  near  them  that  the  sound  of  the  surf 
was  distinctly  heard.  The  whole  effect  of  the  view  was  much 
heightened  by  a  glowing  sunset  in  one  of  the  finest  climates  in  the 
world. 

Off  the  eastern  cape  of  the  island,  many  isolated  rocks  were 
seen  separated  from  the  land,  with  bold,  abrupt  sides  and  broken 
outlines.  The  character  of  these  rocks  is  remarkable :  they  stand 
quite  detached  from  the  adjoining  cliffs,  and  some  of  them  rise  to 
a  great  height  in  a  slender  form,  with  extremely  rugged  surfaces, 
and  broken  edges.  Through  some,  the  waters  have  worn  arched 
ways  of  large  dimensions,  which  afford  a  passage  for  the  breaking 
surf,  and  would  seem  to  threaten  ere  long  their  destruction. 

Similar  needle-form  rocks  are  seen  off  the  northern  Deserta,  an 
island  lying  some  miles  east  of  Madeira.  One  of  them  is  often 
mistaken  for  a  ship  under  sail,  to  which  when  first  seen  it  has  a 
considerable  resemblance.  It  stands  like  a  slender  broken  column, 
several  hundred  feet  in  height  on  a  base  scarcely  larger  than  its 
summit. 

Funchal  has  a  very  pleasing  appearance  from  the  sea,  and  its 
situation  in  a  kind  of  amphitheatre  formed  by  the  mountains,  adds 
to  its  beauty.  The  contrast  of  the  white  buildings  and  villas  with 
the  green  mountains,  forms  a  picture  which  is  much  heightened 
by  the  bold  quadrangular  Loo  Rock  with  its  embattled  summit 
commanding  the  harbour  in  the  foreground. 

The  island  throughout  is  rough  and  mountainous,  hut  the  steeps 
are  clothed  with  rich  and  luxuriant  verdure.  Terraces  are  visible 
on  every  side,  and  every  spot  that  the  ingenuity  of  man  could  make 
available  has  been  apparently  turned  to  advantage,  and  is  diligently 
cultivated.  These  spots  form  an  interesting  scene,  particularly 
when  contrasted  with  the  broken  and  wild  background,  with  the 


MADEIRA. 


9 


white  cottages  clustered  at  the  sea-shore,  and  gradually  extending 
themselves  upwards  until  the  eye  rests  on  the  highest  and  most 
striking  building,  that  of  the  convent  of  Nostra  Senora  de  Monte. 

Through  the  western  half  of  the  island  runs  a  central  ridge, 
above  five  thousand  feet  high,  on  which  is  an  extensive  plain, 
called  Paul  de  Serra,  which  is  mostly  overgrown,  and  is  used 
especially  for  breeding  mules  and  horses.  The  eastern  portion  of 
the  island,  though  quite  elevated,  is  less  so  than  the  western. 

The  valleys  usually  contain  a  strip  of  land  of  extreme  fertility, 
through  which  winds  the  bed  of  a  streamlet  that  becomes  a  mountain 
torrent  in  the  rainy  seasons,  but  is  nearly  or  quite  dry  in  summer. 

The  landing  at  Funchal  is  on  a  stony  beach,  and  is  accompanied 
with  some  little  difficulty,  partly  on  account  of  the  surf,  but  more 
from  the  noise,  confusion  and  uproar  made  by  the  native  boatmen 
in  their  efforts  to  drag  the  boat  up  on  the  beach.  This  operation 
they  however  understand,  and  are  well  accustomed  to,  and  those 
who  desire  to  land  dry,  will  be  wise  to  employ  them. 

On  the  17th,  we  paid  our  respects,  with  a  large  party  of  officers  to 
the  civil  governor  the  Baron  de  Lordello,  field-marshal  in  the  army, 
and  administrator-general  of  the  Province  of  Madeira  and  Porto 
Santo ;  and  also  to  the  military  governor  Jose  Teixcera  Rebello, 
colonel  in  the  army,  and  commandant  of  the  district. 

The  civil  and  military  governments  were  formerly  united  in  the 
same  person,  but,  since  the  restoration  after  the  reign  of  Don  Miguel, 
they  have  been  divided.  The  military  governor  is  now  obliged  to 
consult,  and  is  under  the  control  of  the  civil  governor.  I  was 
informed  that  on  the  appointment  of  the  military  governor  this  was 
expressly  intimated  to  him,  and  that  the  arrangement  was  made  in 
order  to  avoid  placing  too  much  power  in  the  hands  of  any  one 
man. 

His  Excellency  Baron  Lordello,  resides  in  the  government  house 
or  palace,  which  is  a  large  quadrangular  building,  occupied  in  part 
as  barracks.  His  suite  of  apartments  fronts  the  bay,  and  enjoys  a 
beautiful  view  of  it ;  they  also  have  the  enjoyment  of  the  inbat 
or  sea-breeze.  They  are  very  large,  and  but  meagerly  furnished. 
Around  the  large  anteroom  are  hung  the  portraits  of  all  the  civil, 
ecclesiastical  and  military  governors,  which  form  an  imposing  array 
of  hard  outline,  stiff  figures  and  faces,  with  a  variety  of  amusing 
costume.  Those  of  later  years,  which  have  been  lately  hung  up, 

3 


VOL.  I. 


10  MADEIRA. 

are  not  calculated  to  give  very  exalted  ideas  of  the  standing  of  the 
present  Portuguese  school  of  portrait  painting. 

His  Excellency  the  Baron  Lordello  received  us  very  courteously. 
Our  audience,  however,  was  extremely  formal.  The  whole  furniture 
and  appearance  of  the  room  served  to  make  it  so.  We  all  found 
it  difficult  to  school  ourselves  to  ceremonies,  having  been  ushered  as 
we  were  through  dilapidated  and  impoverished  courts  and  vestibules. 
His  Excellency  the  Baron  speaks  English  remarkably  well,  which  I 
understood  he  had  acquired  while  acting  as  an  interpreter  to  the 
British  staff  in  Portugal,  during  the  Peninsular  War.  He  had  been 
no  more  than  a  week  in  charge  of  the  government,  having  just 
arrived  from  Portugal.  After  a  few  monosyllabic  questions  and 
answers  we  took  our  leave,  and  he  did  us  the  honour  to  see  us 
through  the  anteroom  to  the  hall  of  entrance,  where  we  parted  with 
many  bows. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  military  governor,  Senor  Rebello,  who 
occupied  a  small  apartment  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  building. 
This  was  not  large  enough  to  accommodate  us  all,  and  chairs  were 
wanting  for  many.  The  manner  and  ease  of  the  occupant  made 
full  amends.  Ceremony  and  form  were  laid  aside;  he  seemed  to 
enter  warmly  into  our  plans  and  pleasures,  and  evinced  a  great 
desire  to  do  us  service. 

Colonel  Rebello  was  one  of  the  proscribed  during  the  reign  of 
terror  of  Don  Miguel,  and  was  concealed  for  four  years,  all  of  which 
time  our  consular  flag  afforded  him  protection.  During  the  whole 
time  he  did  not  leave  the  apartment  he  occupied,  or  even  approach 
the  window. 

The  streets  of  the  town  are  very  narrow,  without  sidewalks, 
and  to  our  view  like  alleys,  but  their  narrowness  produces  no 
inconvenience.  They  are  well  paved,  and  wheel-carriages  are 
unknown.  The  only  vehicle,  if  so  it  may  be  called,  is  a  sledge 
of  some  six  feet  in  length,  about  twenty  inches  wide,  and  only  six 
or  eight  inches  high,  on  which  are  transported  the  pipes  of  wine. 
Two  strips  of  hard  wood  are  fastened  together  for  runners. 


MADEIRA. 


11 


This  sledge  is  dragged  by  two  very  small  oxen,  and  slips  easily 
on  the  pavement,  which  is  occasionally  wet  with  a  cloth.  It  is  no 
doubt  the  best  mode  of  transportation  in  Funchal,  for  their  wine,  on 
account  of  the  great  steepness  of  their  streets.  Smaller  burthens 
are  transported  on  men’s  shoulders,  or  in  hampers  and  baskets  on 
the  backs  of  donkeys. 

The  middle  gutters  are  now  for  the  most  part  closed,  and  made 
subterranean,  no  longer  the  stranger’s  nuisance.  Funchal  may 
compare  with  most  places  for  the  cleanliness  of  its  streets.  Little 
improvement  has  as  yet  taken  place  in  the  cleanliness  and  discipline 
of  its  prisons. 

I  was  surprised  to  learn  that  all  misdemeanours  are  referred  for 
trial  to  Portugal,  and  that  persons  having  committed  small  crimes 
are  kept  for  years  without  any  disposition  being  made  of  them  by 
those  in  authority.  They  are  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the 
complainant,  consequently  crime  is  scarcely  noticed  or  complained 
of.  On  the  one  hand  it  makes  the  punishment  very  severe,  and  on 
the  other,  persons  are  inclined  to  take  the  law  into  their  own  hands 
against  petty  thefts.  It  is  impossible  to  avoid  many  painful  sights 
in  passing  the  prisons.  Caps  on  sticks  are  thrust  through  the  iron 
gratings,  and  requests  are  made  for  alms,  first  in  beseeching  tones, 
and  afterwards,  if  nothing  is  given,  one  is  pained  with  hearing  cries 
of  execration.  The  occupants  are  in  keeping  with  the  premises, 
and  did  not  fail  to  excite  both  our  commiseration  and  disgust. 

Among  the  lions  of  Madeira  is  a  villa  once  belonging  to  Senor 
Jose  de  Carvalhal,  a  wealthy  nobleman  who  died  about  a  year 
before  our  visit.  The  gardens  are  well  taken  care  of,  and  contain 
many  trees  and  plants  from  various  quarters  of  the  globe.  The 
grounds  embrace  extensive  deer  parks,  but  I  was  not  much  struck 
with  the  manner  in  which  they  were  laid  out.  The  present  pro¬ 
prietor  is  the  nephew  of  the  late  Count. 

The  convent  is  also  a  place  to  which  strangers  resort,  and  the 
fair  nuns  of  twenty  years’  standing,  I  will  not  dwell  on,  lest  truth 
might  compel  me  to  destroy  some  of  the  reputation  of  those  charms 
which  former  visiters  have  done  honour  to.  Feather-flowers  con¬ 
tinue  to  be  sold  here,  and  the  nuns  to  jest  with,  and  receive  the 
homage  of  their  guests.  Since  the  overthrow  of  Don  Miguel  in 
1 824,  monasteries  have  been  abolished  and  liberty  given  to  the  nuns 
to  return  to  the  world,  of  which  privilege  some  of  them  availed 
themselves.  They  do  not  now  exceed  eighty  in  number,  and  as 


12 


MADEIRA. 


none  have  since  been  allowed  to  take  the  veil,  they  will  soon 
decrease. 

The  rides  in  Madeira  are  beautiful.  The  roads  are  well  made, 
easily  and  safely  travelled  on  a  Madeira  pony,  with  a  pony-boy  or 
burroquerro.  One  is  at  a  loss  to  which  to  impute  the  most  strength 
of  mind  and  endurance,  the  pony  or  the  boy.  These  boys  keep 
constantly  near  the  rider,  at  times  holding  on  to  the  tail  of  the  pony, 
then  bestowing  repeated  blows  with  their  long  sticks,  and  ever  and 
anon  urging  it  on  with  their  singular  tones  of  voice,  so  that  the  rider 
is  compelled  to  allow  himself  to  be  carried  along,  contented  with 
passing  safely  over  so  novel  and  (to  him)  apparently  so  impassable  a 
roadway. 

On  proceeding  out  of  Funchal,  fruits,  flowers,  and  vegetables 
seem  crowding  upon  the  sight;  in  the  lower  portions,  groves  of 
orange  and  lemon  trees  are  mingled  with  the  vineyards ;  the  trees 
are  loaded  with  fruit;  then,  as  one  mounts  higher,  bananas,  figs, 
pomegranates,  &c.,  are  seen,  and  again  still  higher,  the  fruits  of 
the  tropics  are  interspersed  with  those  of  the  temperate  zone,  viz., 
apples,  currants,  pears,  and  peaches,  while  the  ground  is  covered 
with  melons,  tomatoes,  egg-plant,  &c.  Farther  beyond,  the  highest 
point  of  cultivation  is  reached,  where  the  potatoe  alone  flourishes. 
The  whole  lower  portion  is  spread  before  the  eye.  Vineyards, 
occupying  every  spot  that  is  susceptible  of  improvement,  and  one 
rides  through  paths  hedged  in  with  geraniums,  roses,  myrtles,  and 
hydrangeas.  These  plants,  which  we  had  been  accustomed  to  con¬ 
sider  as  the  inhabitants  of  our  parlours  and  green-houses,  are  here 
met  with  in  gigantic  forms,  and  as  different  from  our  small,  sickly 
specimens  as  can  well  be  imagined.  For  those  unacquainted  with 
the  luxuriance  of  the  tropical  vegetation,  it  would  be  difficult  to 
conceive  an  idea  of  this  favoured  spot.  Many  of  the  terraces  on 
which  the  vines  are  grown,  are  cut  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  the 
visiter  cannot  but  admire  the  labour  expended  on  the  stone  walls  that 
support  them.  The  road  at  times  leads  through  small  villages,  the 
houses  of  which  are  built  of  blocks  of  lava,  without  plaster,  about 
six  feet  high,  with  a  thatched  roof  of  broom  brought  up  to  a  pole  in 
the  centre  for  its  support,  and  of  a  moderate  pitch. 

Every  one  who  visits  Madeira  should  see  the  Curral.  It  is  a 
very  remarkable  spot,  and  it  is  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  give 
an  idea  of  its  beauty  and  grandeur.  This  place  is  approached  by 
the  usual  ascent  from  F  unchal,  through  the  narrow  roads,  or  paths 


MADEIRA. 


13 


DESCENT  INTO  THE  CURRAL. 


hedged  with  roses,  &c.,  the  view  gradually  extending  beneath, 
over  the  terraced  vineyards.  Just  before  reaching  it  you  mount  a 
small  ascent,  you ,  are  then  on  the  summit  or  edge  of  the  Curral, 
and  the  whole  scene  suddenly  bursts  upon  you.  The  eye  descends 
to  the  depth  of  two  thousand  feet  into  the  immense  chasm  below, 
and  wanders  over  the  ragged  and  broken  outline  of  the  many  peaks 
that  rise  from  its  very  bottom;  then  upwards,  following  the  gray 
precipitous  rocks,  till  their  summits  are  lost  in  the  clouds,  which 
are  passing  fitfully  across  it,  occasionally  permitting  the  sunbeams 
to  glance  to  its  very  bottom.  One  feels  surprised  in  gazing  on  this 
scene,  that  its  character  of  wildness  should  become  softened  and 
its  beauty  increased,  which  is  effected  in  part  by  the  plants  and 
shrubs  which  cling,  or  have  fastened  themselves  into  the  fissures 
of  the  rocks.  These  the  eye  gradually  makes  out,  and  is  led  by 
the  small  and  narrow  strips  of  green  on  the  ledges  downwards, 
until  it  finally  rests  on  the  secluded  church  of  Nostra  Senora  de 

4 


VOL.  I. 


14 


MADEIRA. 


Livre  Monte,  and  the  peasants’  cabins  embedded  in  the  dark  and 
luxuriant  foliage  beneath,  whose  peace  and  quietness  is  in  such 
strong  contrast  with  the  wildness  of  nature  above.  The  whole  looks 
more  like  enchantment  than  reality.  The  shape  of  the  Curral  and 
its  perpendicular  sides  give  the  idea  rather  of  a  gorge  than  of  a 
crater. 

In  the  descent  the  road  winds  along  the  sides  of  the  precipice, 
turning  around  sharp  and  jutting  projections  with  a  frightful  gulf 
yawning  below.  A  misstep  of  the  horse  would  plunge  the  rider  to 
destruction.  At  every  turn  new  and  striking  views  are  brought 
out,  almost  surpassing  in  grandeur  the  first.  The  descent  is  so 
gradual,  that  one  scarcely  seems  to  advance  downwards,  and  the 
length  of  time  necessary  to  accomplish  it  (upwards  of  an  hour) 
will  give  some  idea  of  the  vastness,  and  grandeur  of  the  scene. 
Continuing  on,  the  gorge  opens  to  the  south,  where  the  streamlet 
of  the  Curral,  joined  by  several  lateral  branches,  forms  the  river 
Socorridos,  which  empties  itself  into  the  sea  at  the  ancient  town 
of  Camera  de  Lobos. 

A  party  consisting  of  Messrs.  Drayton,  Pickering,  Couthouy,  and 
Brackenridge,  visited  San  Vincente,  on  the  north  side  of  the  island. 
They  describe  the  road  to  it  as  passing  over  projecting  ledges,  of 
which  those  unacquainted  with  a  volcanic  country  can  form  but  little 
idea.  The  first  night  the  party  stopped  at  Santa  Anna,  where  they 
were  hospitably  entertained  by  Senor  A.  Accraiolis,  who  afforded 
them  every  comfort  in  his  power.  They  were  exceedingly  well 
accommodated.  The  next  morning  they  set  out  on  their  way  to  Pico 
Ruivo.  On  their  road  they  encountered  the  forest  of  arborescent 
Heaths,  some  of  which  were  found  thirty  feet  in  height  and  four  feet 
in  girth  at  a  height  of  two  feet  from  the  ground.  These  have  by 
former  travellers  been  reported  as  pines.  Mr.  Drayton’s  illustrative 
drawing  of  these  remarkable  trees  is  very  characteristic. 

After  a  fatiguing  day’s  ramble,  in  which  they  collected  many 
specimens,  they  returned  to  Santa  Anna,  quite  wet,  it  having 
rained  most  of  the  day  on  the  mountain.  The  next  day  they  set 
out  for  San  Vincente,  their  kind  host  furnishing  them  with  a  letter 
to  Padre  Jacinto  Neri.  Passing  along  the  north  side  over  some  of 
the  most  mountainous  and  broken  parts  of  the  island,  though  at 
the  same  time  extremely  beautiful,  and  in  places  well  cultivated, 
they  reached  the  pass  at  Estroza.  This  is  particularly  striking, 
winding  around  the  precipitous  cliff,  almost  overhanging  the  sea 


' 

■ 


,  y 


.  /• 


' 


' 

-  - 


' 

, 

$$!.«  '• 

, 


MADEIRA. 


15 


several  hundred  feet  below,  and  with  its  pinnacles  reaching  the 
clouds.  The  path  around  this  bluff,  which  is  only  wide  enough  for 
one  at  a  time,  is  a  good  specimen  of  the  roads  around  the  island.  It 
has  been  worked  with  great  labour,  and  made  quite  easy  to  travel 
by  its  zigzag  direction.  The  feeling  of  insecurity  to  those  who 
are  unaccustomed  to  these  mural  precipices,  with  the  extended 
ocean  lying  far  beneath,  serves  to  give  additional  interest  to  the 
scene. 

To  the  plate  of  this  pass,  facing  page  1,  the  reader  is  referred  for  a 
correct  representation  of  the  same. 

They  passed  through  several  villages,  all  prettily  situated,  among 
which  was  Porto  Delgada,  and  about  sunset  arrived  at  San  Vincente. 
At  Porto  Delgada,  their  guides  would  not  allow  them  to  stop,  as  it 
was  necessary  to  descend  and  pass  along  the  rocky  shore  before  the 
tide  came  in.  They  succeeded  in  passing  safely,  but  were  kept  on 
the  qui  vive  by  the  numerous  stories  detailed  by  their  guides  of  the 
accidents  that  had  occurred  there.  The  road  to  this  part  of  the 
island  is  little  frequented  by  strangers,  of  whom  only  three  are  said 
to  have  visited  San  Vincente  during  four  months. 

On  their  arrival  they  found  Padre  Jacinto  engaged  at  prayers. 
After  his  duties  were  finished  he  received  them  kindly,  and 
accommodated  them  for  the  night.  San  Vincente  is  but  a  small 
village  of  fifteen  houses,  a  chapel,  and  a  distillery,  in  which,  during 
the  season,  they  make  between  four  and  five  hundred  gallons  of 
brandy  a  day.  As  Padre  Jacinto  could  not  speak  a  word  of 
English,  they  had  but  little  conversation  with  him.  However,  a 
little  Spanish  on  both  sides,  with  gesticulations,  enabled  them  to 
pass  the  usual  compliments,  and  to  obtain  the  requisite  directions 
for  their  proceeding  back  to  F unchal  on  the  next  day.  They  were 
kindly  and  hospitably  entertained  by  the  Padre,  and  left  him  with 
many  thanks  for  his  kindness.  Taking  the  road  or  rather  path 
across  to  the  Curral,  they  passed  over  a  most  beautiful  country, 
meeting  with  the  gigantic  virgin  forests  of  laurels,  sixty  feet  high 
and  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  occasionally  woods  of  arborescent 
heaths,  of  equally  surprising  size  with  those  they  had  seen  the  day 
before,  in  their  journey  across  the  island,  further  to  the  eastward. 

No  traces  of  distinct  craters  were  found  on  any  part  of  the  island 
they  visited ;  the  rocks  were  composed  of  volcanic  breccia,  and  the 
surface  of  these  was  much  decomposed. 

The  mountain  paths  by  which  they  crossed,  are  almost  inaccessible 


16 


MADEIRA. 


in  some  places.  The  Madeira  ponies  were  obliged  to  leap  from  rock 
to  rock,  frequently  at  an  angle  of  45°  with  the  horizon.  The  lover 
of  the  picturesque  will  be  amply  gratified  by  pursuing  the  same 
route. 

Another  party,  consisting  of  Messrs.  Hale,  Eld,  Dana,  and  Holmes, 
went  towards  the  east  end  of  the  island,  as  far  as  Canical,  beyond 
Machico,  to  examine  a  bed  of  fossils,  said  to  exist  there.  This  proved 
to  be  a  bed  or  deposit  of  coral,  which  will  be  spoken  of  in  the 
Geological  Report. 

Passing  through  Machico,  they  saw  and  visited  the  small  church 
or  chapel,  said  to  have  been  erected  over  the  graves  of  the  lovers, 
Anna  d’Arfet  and  Robert  Machim,  the  story  of  whose  love  and 
sufferings  has  long  since  been  placed  among  the  fabulous,  though 
still  credited  in  Madeira. 

As  their  adventures  are  supposed  to  have  led  to  the  discovery  of 
this  island,  it  may  be  as  well  to  give  the  history  of  them  a  place 
here,  as  recorded  by  Alcoforado. 

It  is  as  follows  : 

“  In  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Third  of  England,  Robert  Machim, 
an  English  gentleman,  became  the  lover  of  the  beautiful  Anna 
d’Arfet.  It  was  long  before  their  mutual  attachment  was  known. 
When  it  became  so,  Machim’s  imprisonment  was  procured  by  the 
influence  of  her  family  for  his  presuming  to  aspire  to  the  hand 
of  one  so  much  above  his  rank.  During  his  confinement,  Anna 
d’Arfet  had  been  forced  into  a  marriage  with  a  nobleman,  who 
confined  her  in  his  castle  near  Bristol.  By  the  assistance  of  a 
friend,  Machim  escaped,  and  induced  her  to  elope  with  him,  to  seek 
an  asylum  in  France.  They  sailed  during  a  storm,  which  pre¬ 
vented  them  from  gaining  their  intended  port,  and  after  many  days 
of  anxiety  and  suffering,  they  found  themselves  in  sight  of  land 
clothed  with  the  richest  vegetation,  and  wild  flowers  in  the  greatest 
profusion.  They  determined  to  disembark,  and  experienced  a 
climate  of  surpassing  beauty,  with  birds  of  the  gayest  plumage. 
Whilst  wandering  a  few  days  about  in  this  paradise,  there  came  on 
a  violent  storm  which  drove  the  vessel  from  the  island.  This  was 
too  great  a  shock  for  poor  Anna,  and  she  died  soon  after  of  a  broken 
heart.  Robert  did  not  long  survive  her  and  died,  uttering  as  a  last 
request  that  he  might  be  laid  in  the  same  grave  with  his  mistress,  in 
a  chapel  which  they  had  erected  in  commemoration  of  their  deliver¬ 
ance  from  shipwreck.  From  the  survivors,  Alcoforado  is  said  to  have 


MADEIRA. 


17 


derived  the  story,  they  having  left  the  island,  (after  many  adven¬ 
tures)  returned  to  their  native  country,  and  gave  accounts  of  the 
discovery  of  Madeira.” 

The  country  along  this  route  is  much  diversified  in  surface,  and 
extremely  beautiful.  The  road  is  quite  good  and  much  wider, 
enabling  two  to  ride  abreast. 

This  party  complained  much  of  the  inhospitality  of  the  inhabi¬ 
tants.  They  could  not  get  any  accommodation  whatever  at  Santa 
Cruz,  although  it  contains  three  thousand  inhabitants.  They  were 
told  “  that  Santa  Cruz  was  a  very  poor  place,”  and  that  it  would 
be  better  to  ride  on  to  Funchal.  One  of  the  inhabitants,  of  respec¬ 
table  appearance,  told  them  there  was  an  empty  house  which  they 
could  occupy,  with  permission  of  the  owner.  His  offer  was  cour¬ 
teously  declined,  and  the  party  rode  back  through  a  dark  night  to 
Funchal. 

The  islands  of  Madeira  and  Porto  Santo,  under  the  new  consti¬ 
tution,  promulgated  in  1836,  were  included  in  one  district,  called 
“  Districto-administrativo  de  Funchal.”  It  contains  ten  councils,  in 
which  are  forty-five  parishes.  The  population,  according  to  the 
census  taken  in  1836,  is  taken  from  the  Cronica. 


PARISHES. 

FAMILIES. 

SOTILS. 

MALES. 

FEMALES. 

Funchal  .... 

9 

5,975 

28,653 

13,444 

15,204 

Santa  Cruz  .  .  . 

4 

1,450 

7,287 

3,611 

3,676 

Machico  .... 

4 

1,030 

5,207 

2,655 

2,552 

Santa  Anna  .  .  . 

5 

3,972 

14,799 

7,572 

7,227 

San  Vincente  . 

2 

1,972 

8,848 

4,425 

4,423 

Porto  Moniz  . 

4 

1,559 

7,333 

3,606 

3,727 

Calheta  .... 

6 

2,731 

13,133 

6,341 

6,792 

Poi'to  do  Sol 

6 

3,288 

16,111 

7,852 

8,259 

Camara  de  Lobos  . 

4 

2,323 

12,458 

6,119 

6,339 

Porto  Santo  . 

1 

374 

1,618 

883 

758 

45 

24,674 

115,447 

56,508 

58,957 

The  English  population  amounted  in  1836  to  108  families,  num¬ 
bering  324  souls. 


VOL.  I. 


5 


18 


MADEIRA. 


PROGRESS  OF  POPULATION  IN  1835. 


Legitimate  births,  male  . 

Illegitimate  “  “  .  .  . 

2029 

Legitimate  births,  female  .  , 

.  .  1868 

Illegitimate  “  “  .  . 

■»  •  s  •  »  «  • 

.  .  205 

2073 

4102 

Deaths,  male  ...... 

“  female . 

2751 

Excess  of  births  . 

*  • 

1351 

Marriages  ....  1065 

The  revenue  of  the  island  is  stated  to  be  about  $210,000  per 
annum.  That  portion  which  is  derived  from  the  customs,  is  about 
one  half,  or  $110,000.  The  remainder  is  from  taxes  and  tithes.  The 
latter  are  now  collected  by  the  government,  who  pay  salaries  to  the 
priesthood.  The  inhabitants  are  liable  to  pay  tax  for  the  mainte¬ 
nance  of  the  small  naval  force  kept  on  the  station.  The  expenses  of 
the  government  of  Madeira,  including  the  support  of  the  military 
garrison,  is  about  $150,000,  leaving  a  surplus  to  the  government  of 
about  $50,000  or  $60,000. 

There  are  about  five  thousand  proprietors  of  the  soil,  of  whom  no 
more  than  six  hundred  and  fifty  live  on  their  rents ;  and  there  are 
about  four  hundred  who  receive  government  salaries. 

Mendicants  are  numerous,  and  one  is  much  tormented  with  them 
from  the  very  moment  of  landing.  It  is  surprising  to  find  them  so 
importunate  in  so  fine  an  island,  and  where  the  necessaries  of  life 
ought  to  abound. 

Wine  is  the  staple  commodity :  the  produce  during  the  year  1837 
was  14,150  pipes.  The  export  the  year  previous  to  our  visit 
amounted  to  8,435  pipes,  of  which  about  3,800  pipes,  valued  at 
$793,000,  went  to  the  United  States.  The  imports  only  amounted 
to  $105,000,  in  staves,  rice  and  oil.  The  5,700  pipes  that  remain, 
include  the  home  consumption,  and  what  is  stored  for  refining. 
Wine  in  Madeira  is  generally  the  engrossing  topic,  and  the  in¬ 
habitants  are  much  alive  and  justly  jealous  of  their  reputation  for 
it.  An  amusing  excitement  existed  during  our  visit.  A  London 


MADEIRA. 


19 


paper  (the  Times)  had  asserted  that  foreign  wine  had  frequently  been 
introduced  into  Madeira  and  afterwards  exported  as  the  genuine 
article,  to  the  United  States  in  particular,  and  what  gave  more  force 
to  the  story,  it  was  stated  as  a  fact  that  seventy  pipes  had  lately  been 
entered  at  the  expense  of  $1000,  and  remanufactured.  Every  body 
was  up  in  arms.  The  commercial  association  of  Funchal  passed, 
resolutions  denouncing  the  publication  in  strong  terms,  as  designed 
by  certain  interested  persons  to  injure  the  reputation  of  the  wine  of 
Madeira.  So  strict  are  the  laws  to  prevent  frauds,  that  even  genuine 
Madeira,  after  being  once  shipped,  cannot  be  returned  to  the  island. 
I  heard,  however,  of  an  attempt,  and  but  one,  to  smuggle  in  Teneriffe 
and  Fayal  wines,  which  was  discovered.  The  casks  were  broken, 
the  wine  destroyed,  the  boats  confiscated,  and  the  smuggler  con¬ 
demned  to  be  transported  to  the  coast  of  Africa. 

We  were  informed  that  the  industry  of  the  inhabitants  had  much 
increased  within  a  few  years,  and  since  the  new  order  of  things :  this 
is  shown  in  the  increased  quantity  of  grain  which  is  raised,  viz. 
wheat,  barley,  rye,  and  Indian  corn.  Sugar  and  coffee  are  also 
raised,  and  of  superior  quality.  All  kinds  of  vegetables  and  fruits 
are  in  abundance,  all  of  very  fine  kinds,  and  not  only  sufficient  for 
their  own  wants,  but  to  supply  the  shipping  that  touch  there. 

There  are  some  things  relative  to  the  organization  of  the  present 
government,  that  seem  to  forebode  any  thing  but  harmony  in  its 
operations.  It  is  too  complicated  for  an  ignorant  community,  that 
cannot  value  the  elective  franchise.  The  system  is  somewhat  a 
caricature  of  our  own,  in  the  frequency  of  elections,  and  the 
numerous  small  magistrates  who  have  for  the  most  part  little  or 
no  emolument.  I  was  told  that  instances  had  occurred  of  their 
refusing  to  educate  their  children,  in  order  that  they  might  escape 
being  elected  to  an  office,  which  would  bring  them  nothing  but 
toil  and  vexation.  As  they  become  more  enlightened  this  prejudice 
will  pass  away. 

The  people  are  industrious,  sober,  and  civil,  and  although  ignorant, 
I  should  think  happy.  There  is  little,  if  any,  mixed  blood  among 
them.  They  are  of  the  old  Arabian  stock.  Free  negroes  are  seen. 
Dark  hair,  eyes,  and  complexion,  are  most  common;  but  much 
diversity  in  form  and  feature,  and  in  the  colour  of  the  hair,  exists. 
The  character  of  the  features  of  the  inhabitants,  is  usually  rather  a 
broad  face,  high  cheek  bones,  and  pointed  nose,  full  lips,  good  teeth, 
and  retreating  chin.  The  men  are  very  muscular,  rather  above  the 


20 


MADEIRA. 


middle  height,  strongly  built,  and  capable  of  enduring  great  fatigue. 
We  all  agreed  that  the  women  were  particularly  ugly,  which  is  to  be 
imputed  in  part  to  the  hard  labour  required  of  them.  The  two  sexes 
do  not  appear  to  belong  to  the  same  race. 

The  men  of  the  lower  order  are  dressed  in  a  kind  of  loose  trousers 
(cuecas)  descending  as  far  as  the  knee,  with  a  shirt  or  jacket  of  a 
gaudy  colour.  Both  sexes  wear  a  kind  of  cap  (carapuca)  of  very 
small  dimensions,  tied  under  the  chin.  Its  use  is  not  readily 
conceived,  as  it  is  only  a  few  inches  in  diameter  at  its  base,  and 
terminates  in  a  conical  top,  like  an  inverted  funnel. 

The  women  wear  bodices  with  short  petticoats  of  a  variety  of 
colours,  generally  in  stripes.  They  have  usually  shoes  and  stockings, 
but  they  generally  go  barefooted,  with  these  articles  tied  in  a  small 
bundle  to  he  put  on  when  they  wish  to  appear  fine.  The  children 
are  poorly  clad,  have  but  one  garment,  and  that  dirty. 

The  habitations  of  the  lower  order  would  be  called  huts  in  our 
country.  They  are  composed  of  walls  of  stone  about  five  or  six 
feet  high,  with  a  roof  rising  on  all  sides  to  a  central  pole,  are 
thatched  with  straw  or  broom,  and  contain  only  one  room.  The 
only  aperture  for  light  and  smoke  is  the  door.  There  is  but  little 
necessity  for  chimneys,  as  fire  is  seldom  required.  It  is  said  that 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  island,  some  of  the  peasants  make  their 
habitation  in  caves  or  excavations  on  the  hill  side. 


peasant’s  cottage. 


In  the  town  of  Funchal,  there  are  many  elegant  establishments, 
and  much  luxury  among  the  higher  classes,  but  the  poorer  classes 
are  lodged  miserably.  The  houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  of 
which  the  exterior  is  well  kept,  being  neatly  whitewashed.  But 


/ 


MADEIRA. 


21 


the  interior  is  any  thing  but  comfortable.  They  have  bnt  one 
entrance.  The  floors  are  paved  with  ronnd  stones,  and  the  walls 
are  of  rough  stone,  presenting  no  better  an  appearance  than  our 
wood  cellars.  The  furniture  is  scanty,  and  of  the  coarsest  kind. 
Those  of  the  peasants  are  more  characteristic  to  the  island.  The 
wood  cut  on  the  opposite  page  is  a  good  representation  of  their 
habitations. 

Travelling  is  performed  in  sedan  chairs.  This  mode  is  always 
considered  the  safest  for  ladies,  particularly  in  crossing  the  moun¬ 
tains.  Horses  and  mules  are  seldom  used.  On  leaving  Funchal 
for  the  country,  it  is  one  continued  ascent  between  high  stone 
walls,  these  forming  abutments  to  the  terraces,  which  are  covered 
with  vines,  and  afford  protection  from  the  sun.  After  reaching 
the  hills,  one  enjoys  a  delightful  view'  of  the  beautiful  gardens. 
The  roadsides  are  lined  throughout  with  flowers,  (to  us,  those  of 
the  green-house,)  among  them  Fuchsias,  Digitalis,  Rose  geraniums, 
Punica  granata,  Rosa  indica  coccinea,  Hydrangea  hortensis,  mixed 
with  box-trees,  myrtles,  &c. 

The  valleys  are  covered  with  the  Belladonna  lily,  and  the  mountain 
passes  cannot  be  compared  to  any  thing  more  appropriate  than  to  a 
rich  flower-garden  left  to  grow  wild.  Added  to  all  this,  a  climate 
which  resembles  our  finest  spring  weather. 

Such  of  the  peasantry  as  do  not  gain  a  subsistence  in  the  vineyards, 
have  usually  a  small  patch  of  ground  which  they  cultivate,  raising 
grain,  corn,  potatoes,  and  the  taro  (Arum  esculentum)  in  quantities 
barely  sufficient  to  eke  out  a  scanty  living.  The  cultivation  is 
commonly  performed  by  hand,  although  a  plough  of  very  simple 
construction  is  sometimes  used.  Many  of  the  peasantry  are  em¬ 
ployed  as  carriers,  and  one  is  much  struck  by  their  numbers  when 
entering  Funchal  early  in  the  morning,  with  sheepskins  filled  with 
wine  on  their  shoulders,  that  look  at  a  distance  more  like  the  live 
animal  than  a  filled  skin.  These  skins  are  preserved  as  entire  as 
possible,  even  the  legs  of  the  animal  being  retained.  They  are 
generally  kept  steady  by  a  band  that  passes  over  the  forehead,  which 
supports  a  great  part  of  the  weight.  About  twenty-five  gallons, 
weighing  more  than  two  hundred  pounds,  is  a  load.  They  move 
rapidly,  and  carry  this  load  five  miles  for  a  mere  trifle.  To  us,  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  features  in  the  population,  was  to  see  a 
female  not  only  thus  employed,  but  a  stout  mountain  lass  trudging 

6 


VOL.  I. 


22 


MADEIRA. 


up  a  steep  path  with  ease,  under  a  load  that  would  have  staggered 
one  of  our  labourers,  even  for  a  short  distance. 


WINE-CARRIERS, 


The  manner  of  expressing  the  juice  I  have  no  where  seen  particu¬ 
larly  described,  and  although  a  description  of  it  may  not  add  a  relish 
to  the  cup,  yet  it  will  show  the  manufacture  as  conducted  according 
to  the  old  custom,  at  the  present  day.  A  friend  of  our  consul  was 
obliging  enough  to  show  us  his  works,  and  the  machinery  for 
expressing  the  juice  from  the  grape.  It  was  in  a  rude  sort  of  shed. 
On  our  approach  we  heard  a  sort  of  song,  with  a  continued  thump¬ 
ing,  and  on  entering  saw  six  men  stamping  violently  in  a  vat  of  six 
feet  square  by  two  feet  deep,  three  on  each  side  of  a  huge  lever  beam, 
their  legs  bare  up  to  their  thighs.  On  our  entrance  they  redoubled 
their  exertions,  until  the  perspiration  fairly  poured  from  them ;  the 
vat  had  been  tilled  with  grapes,  and  by  their  exertions  we  were 
enabled  to  see  the  whole  process.  After  the  grapes  had  been  suffi¬ 
ciently  stamped,  and  the  men’s  legs  well  scraped,  the  pulp  was  made 
into  the  shape  of  a  large  bee-hive,  a  rope  made  of  the  young  twigs  of 
the  vine  being  wound  around  it.  The  lever  was  then  used,  which 
has  a  large  stone  or  rock  attached  to  it  by  a  screw.  Much  time  is 
lost  in  adjusting  this,  and  much  consultation  and  dispute  had.  The 
juice  flows  off,  and  is  received  in  tubs.  The  produce  of  the  press  is 
on.  an  average  about  fifty  gallons  daily.  Each  gallon  requires  about 
ten  bushels  of  grapes.  The  taste  is  very  much  like  sweet  cider. 
The  process  is  any  thing  but  pleasing,  and  endeavours  have  been 


MADEIRA. 


23 


made  by  English  residents  to  substitute  machinery,  but  the  preju¬ 
dices,  vexations  and  difficulties  experienced  has  caused  them  to  give 
up  the  attempt.  The  general  average  is  from  one  to  three  pipes  of 
wine  per  acre  annually. 


WINE-PRESS. 


The  south  side  of  Madeira,  as  is  well  known,  although  not  the 
most  fertile,  produces  the  finest  wines.  Every  point  which  can 
be  cultivated  successfully  is  attended  to,  and  earth  is  brought  to 
increase  the  soil  from  other  parts.  The  kinds  of  grapes  are  various, 
and  the  wines  manufactured  as  numerous.  The  common  Madeira 
is  obtained  from  a  mixture  of  Bual,  Verdelho,  and  Negro  Molle 
grapes;  the  Malmsey  and  Sercial  from  grapes  of  the  same  name. 
There  is  a  great  difference  in  the  spots  and  peculiar  exposure  where 
the  vine  grows,  and  different  kinds  of  wine  are  produced,  according 
to  the  state  of  maturity  to  which  the  grape  is  allowed  to  arrive 
before  being  gathered.  After  being  expressed,  it  is  put  into  casks, 
undergoes  the  process  of  fermentation,  is  clarified  with  gypsum  or 
isinglass,  and  a  small  portion  of  brandy  is  added,  two  or  three 
gallons  to  the  pipe. 

The  deportment  of  the  lower  classes  is  a  mixture  of  politeness  and 
servility.  They  invariably  noticed  us  in  passing  by  taking  off  the 
cap,  and  on  receiving  any  thing,  kissed  their  hands,  or  made  some 
other  respectful  salutation. 

The  language  spoken  in  Madeira  is  Portuguese,  but  with  a  rapid 
utterance,  or  rather,  clipping  or  abbreviating  of  their  words  and 
expressions. 

The  ignorance  of  the  common  people  seems  great.  Few  can 


24 


MADEIRA. 


read,  and  still  fewer  write.  It  is  said  they  are  acquainted  with  no 
more  than  three  coins,  all  of  which  are  Spanish,  namely,  dollars, 
pistareens,  and  bits,  and  that  many  kinds  of  Portuguese  coins 
current  at  Lisbon  will  not  pass  in  Madeira.  The  want  of  a  small 
description  of  money  is  much  felt. 

I  directed  a  party  of  officers  to  make  an  excursion  to  the  top  of 
Pico  Ruivo,  in  order  to  ascertain  its  height,  and  that  of  the  several 
points  on  their  way  up.  They  remained  four  hours  on  the  summit, 
during  which  time  simultaneous  observations  were  made  at  the  con¬ 
sul’s  house  by  Lieutenant  Carr  and  myself.  They  ascended  by  the 
Santa  Anna  road,  which  is  the  only  one  now  said  to  be  practicable. 
Punta  d’Empeno,  the  highest  point  of  cultivation,  was  found  to  be 
four  thousand  one  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  heights  of 
other  points  measured  will  be  found  in  the  tables.  The  results  of  the 
observations  give  for  the  height  of  the  peak  above  the  American 
Consulate,  six  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty-one  feet.  The 
cistern  of  the  barometer  at  the  latter  place  above  half  tide,  was  found 
to  be  by  levelling  fifty-six  feet.  Total,  six  thousand  two  hundred  and 
thirty-seven  feet  above  half  tide. 

The  magnetical  observations  for  dip  and  intensity  were  also 
made,  and  the  longitude  by  chronometer  was  found  to  be,  16°  54' 
11"  W.  Latitude  by  observation,  32°  38'  11"  N. 

The  markets  are  well  supplied  with  meat,  poultry,  fish,  and  all 
kinds  of  vegetables. 

The  bat  noticed  by  Bowdich  was  the  only  one  of  the  mammalia 
seen  in  a  wild  state.  Of  birds,  two  species  of  hawks,  the  linnet,  the 
canary,  the  goldfinch,  the  yellow  wagtail  and  the  swift,  were  all 
that  were  seen.  Sea  fish  are  abundant;  but  not  a  single  trace 
of  a  fresh  water  fish  was  seen  or  found  in  the  streams.  Many 
specimens  of  Crustacea,  insects,  and  mollusca  were  added  to  our 
collections. 

The  ride  to  the  Quinta  of  Mr.  Bean  at  Coman cha  is  one  of  the 
prettiest  the  island  affords.  It  is  towards  the  east  end,  and  some 
eight  or  ten  miles  from  the  town  of  Funchal.  For  variety  of 
scenery  and  the  beauty  of  its  grounds  it  is  not  exceeded  by  any  on 
the  island,  and  it  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  effect  of  English  taste 
when  applied  to  the  scenery  and  fine  climate  of  Madeira.  The  road 
to  it  is  the  same  that  has  been  before  described,  passing  through  the 
gorges  and  around  the  different  spurs,  which  gives  great  variety  to 
it,  and  presents  many  fine  views.  Having  a  note  of  introduction 


MADEIRA. 


25 


from  our  consul,  we  stopped  at  Mr.  Bean’s  gate  and  sent  the 
servant  in,  who  returned,  informing  us  that  Mr.  Bean  was  not  at 
home,  but  a  kind  invitation  to  enter  was  sent  to  us  from  his  lady. 
We  did  so,  riding  through  hedges  of  Fuchsias  and  Myrtles  twelve 
feet  high,  when  a  beautiful  little  cottage  on  a  small  level  spot  burst 
suddenly  upon  our  view,  with  its  verandahs  embosomed  in  creeping 
vines,  and  from  the  notes  of  various  kinds  of  birds,  one  could  almost 
have  fancied  oneself  in  an  aviary.  All  united  to  give  the  impression 
that  it  was  the  abode  of  contentment.  Several  small  lakes  were 
partially  seen,  their  dimensions  being  ingeniously  hid  from  view. 
On  one  of  them  was  seen  a  tiny  fleet  safely  moored,  on  another 
waterfalls,  &c.,  &c. ;  the  banks  of  others  were  surrounded  with 
aquatic  plants,  among  which  was  the  Calla  Ethiopica  in  full  bloom. 
Then  again  we  were  struck  with  the  dahlias,  geraniums,  roses,  and 
jasmines,  and  the  varieties  of  trees  and  shrubs  from  the  tropics, 
besides  willows,  oaks,  elms,  &c.,  that  were  familiar  to  us.  A  view 
through  the  trees  down  the  gorge  to  the  distant  ocean  was  beautiful, 
bringing  before  us  all  the  bold  scenery  of  Madeira :  truly  it  was  an 
enchanting  spot.  The  grounds  are  extensive,  and  laid  out  with 
great  taste,  and  each  spot  appeared  in  keeping  with  the  whole. 
The  hill  behind  the  house  was  found  by  the  sympiesometer  to  be 
two  thousand  and  ninety-eight  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
cottage  had  every  thing  to  recommend  it,  in  its  library,  &c.,  &c. 
All  is  enjoyed  here  that  such  a  climate  as  that  of  Madeira,  combined 
with  taste  and  refinement,  can  give. 

After  a  stay  of  a  week  we  had  made  all  our  repairs  and  arrange¬ 
ments  which  were  necessary  in  consequence  of  our  defective  outfits, 
recruited  the  officers  and  men,  and  prepared  for  our  departure. 

Lest  it  should  be  supposed  at  home  that  I  had  exaggerated  the 
state  of  the  ships,  I  forwarded  from  Madeira  to  the  Honourable 
Secretary  of  the  Navy,  as  an  ocular  proof  how  defective  our  outfit 
had  been,  the  iron  hoops  that  had  rusted  off  the  pumps,  and  were 
found  in  the  well-room  of  the  Peacock.  Captain  Hudson’s  report 
relative  thereto  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XV. 

The  diarrhoea  made  its  appearance  among  the  crews,  but  in 
dispensing  with  fruit  it  was  soon  stopped. 

During  our  stay,  the  English  schooner  Star  was  seen  drifting 
rapidly  upon  the  Brazen-head,  and  was  only  saved  by  the  timely 
aid  of  our  boats.  She  was  found  to  be  without  an  anchor,  and  had 
been  upwards  of  eighty  days  at  sea  from  the  coast  of  Africa.  The 

7 


VOL.  I. 


26 


MADEIRA. 


garrison  of  Loo  Rock,  on  seeing  the  boats  proceeding  to  render 
assistance,  tired  several  guns  to  prevent  her  being  boarded.  This 
would  have  effectually  prevented  her  receiving  any  aid  from  the 
shore,  but  as  our  boats  did  not  understand  the  signal,  they  went  on, 
and  succeeded  in  saving  her  from  wreck,  and  supplying  her  necessary 
wants. 

With  a  favourable  wind  we  took  our  departure,  after  experiencing 
many  kindnesses  and  attentions  from  our  worthy  Vice  Consul,  Henry 
John  Burden,  Esq.,  whose  house  and  time  were  entirely  given  up  to 
us  during  our  stay,  and  to  whom  I  would  beg  to  tender  our  warmest 
thanks. 


CHAPTER  II. 


CONTENTS. 

SQUADRON  SAILS  FROM  MADEIRA  — CURRENTS  — SEARCH  FOR  SHOALS  AND  VIGIAS— 
ARRIVAL  AT  ST.  JAGO— APPEARANCE  OF  THE  ISLAND— TOWN  OF  PORTO  PRAYA— ITS 
POPULATION— LANGUAGE— VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR  — PUBLIC  FOUNTAIN  — MARKET- 
DRILL  OF  RECRUITS— DROUGHTS— CLIMATE— SLAVES— DRESS— DEPARTURE  FROM  PORTO 
PRAYA-FURTHER  SEARCH  FOR  SHOALS,  ETC.— ARRIVAL  AT  RIO  JANEIRO. 


CHAPTER  II. 

PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA  TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 

1  8  38. 

On  the  25th  of  September,  having  completed  all  that  was  deemed 
necessary,  we  sailed  from  Madeira,  and  stood  to  the  southward, 
intending  to  pass  over  the  localities  where  shoals  were  supposed  to 
exist. 

The  morning  after  our  departure  from  Madeira  it  was  reported  to 
me  at  daylight,  that  the  squadron  were  not  in  sight;  as  we  had 
been  making  rapid  progress  throughout  the  night,  I  concluded  that 
we  had  outrun  the  squadron,  and  hove  to  for  them  to  come  up. 
About  eight  o’clock  they  were  discovered.  On  joining,  I  was  in¬ 
formed  by  Captain  Hudson  that  they  had  been  becalmed  for  several 
hours,  although  we  were  near  each  other  when  the  breeze  sprang 
up.  These  veins  of  wind  are  frequent  in  this  part  of  the  ocean. 

After  passing  the  Canary  Islands  we  experienced  a  current,  setting 
northeast  by  east,  of  about  one  fourth  of  a  mile  an  hour,  until  we 
reached  the  latitude  of  Bonavista,  one  of  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands. 
This  somewhat  surprised  me,  for  I  had  formed  the  idea  that  the 
set  of  the  current  should  have  been  in  the  direction  of  our  course ; 
but  many  careful  observations  with  the  current-log,  and  the  differ¬ 
ence  between  our  astronomical  observations  and  dead  reckoning,  gave 
the  same  results. 

It  was  my  intention  on  leaving  the  United  States  to  pass  from 
Madeira  through  the  Sargasso  Sea,  in  order  to  ascertain  something 
definite  in  relation  to  this  unexplored  and  interesting  locality,  and  to 
gain  some  information  relative  to  the  Fucus  natans,  or  gulf  weed,  the 
origin  of  which  has  remained  so  long  in  doubt.  Deep  soundings  in 
this  part  of  the  ocean  I  deemed  would  be  very  interesting,  and 

8 


VOL.  I. 


30 


PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA 


afford  an  opportunity  of  settling  the  origin  of  this  plant,  which  is 
spread  over  the  whole  ocean;  hut  my  time  did  not  permit  me  to 
make  this  deviation  from  our  direct  course,  and  I  hoped  on  my 
return  to  have  ample  leisure  for  its  exploration. 

On  the  29th  of  September,  we  passed  into  discoloured  water,  as 
green  in  appearance  as  that  of  fifty  fathoms  depth.  On  entering  it 
the  thermometer  fell  one  and  a  half  to  two  degrees.  The  distance 
run  in  it  was  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  Repeated  casts  of 
the  deep  sea  lead  were  had  in  from  two  to  three  hundred  fathoms, 
but  no  bottom  found.  The  water  was  particularly  examined  for 
animal  cuke,  but  none  were  detected.  On  leaving  it  a  rise  of  tem¬ 
perature  took  place  of  two  degrees ;  and  much  phosphorescence  was 
seen  when  we  had  passed  out  of  it. 

The  first  shoal  searched  for  was  the  Maria  Rock,  said  to  be  in 
latitude  19°  45'  N.,  and  longitude  20°  50'  W.  In  its  neighbourhood 
our  position  was  carefully  ascertained.  The  vessels  were  then 
spread  in  open  order,  and  a  course  sailed  to  pass  directly  over  the 
spot.  The  surface  of  the  ocean  visible  was  not  less  than  twenty 
miles  in  latitude,  with  every  opportunity  which  clear  weather  could 
afford.  Good,  look-outs  were  kept  at  the  masthead,  and  there  was  a 
sufficient  swell  to  cause  breakers  on  any  shoal  within  fifteen  feet  of 
the  surface.  We  ran  over  the  locality  without  perceiving  any  thing 
that  indicated  a  shoal. 

The  situation  of  the  Bom  F elix  Shoal,  laid  down  about  ten  leagues 
to  the  south  of  the  above,  was  passed  over  in  the  same  manner, 
sounding  repeatedly  for  bottom  with  three  hundred  fathoms  of  line, 
but  no  appearance  of  a  shoal  was  observed. 

The  reported  position  of  the  Bonetta  Rocks  next  claimed  our 
attention,  in  latitude  16°  32'  N.,  and  longitude  20°  57'  W.  After 
this  locality  had  been  well  examined,  a  course  was  steered  over  its 
supposed  bearing  from  Bonavista,  one  of  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands. 
The  vessels  of  the  squadron  sounding  every  half  hour  during  the 
night,  which  was  clear  and  bright  moonlight.* 

*  Since  our  examination,  I  have  seen  a  letter  from  the  American  consul  at  Porto 
Praya,  F.  Gardiner,  Esq.,  detailing  the  wreck  of  the  British  ship  Charlotte  in  1841,  and 
placing  this  shoal  in  latitude  16°  17'  N.,  longitude  22°  21'  W.,  84'  in  longitude  and  15' 
in  latitude  from  the  position  I  searched  for  it  in ;  whence  it  appears  that  it  is  the  same 
reef  on  which  the  Magdelaine  was  lost.  I  have  no  kind  of  doubt  but  that  they  ought  all 
to  be  referred  to  the  Hartwell  Reef.  The  same  gentleman  was  confident  at  the  time  I 
saw  him  that  the  Magdelaine  had  been  lost  on  the  reef  of  that  name. 


TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 


31 


On  the  night  of  the  6th  of  October,  we  hove  to  off  the  island  of 
St.  Jago.  Seldom  have  we  seen  the  sea  exhibit  so  much  phospho¬ 
rescence.  Its  brilliancy  was  so  great,  that  it  might  truly  be  said  to 
have  the  appearance  of  being  on  fire.  We  made  some  experiments 
to  ascertain  the  depth  to  which  these  phosphorescent  animalculse 
extended.  After  many  trials  they  were  not  found  below  eighteen 
fathoms.  The  temperature  of  the  water  at  that  depth  was  79°,  at 
the  surface  80°,  and  at  one  hundred  fathoms  depth  58°.  The  mean 
temperature  of  the  air  from  Madeira  until  our  arrival  off  this  port, 
was  found  to  have  increased  from  69°  to  78°,  while  the  difference  in 
the  water  was  from  71°  to  81°. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th,  we  anchored  in  Porto  Praya  bay. 
The  island  of  St.  Jago  presents  a  very  different  appearance  from 
Madeira,  particularly  the  southeastern  portion  of  it,  though  its 
formation  is  known  to  be  similar.  There  are  many  high  peaks 
and  mountains  in  its  centre,  which  afford  a  fine  background  for  the 
barren  and  uninteresting  coast  scenery. 


PORT  PRAYA  CAP 


The  time  of  our  arrival  was  just  after  the  rainy  season,  the  island 
consequently  presented  a  more  verdant  appearance  than  it  does  at 
other  seasons  of  the  year. 

Our  consul,  F.  Gardiner,  Esq.,  came  on  board  and  made  us  wel¬ 
come  to  all  the  island  afforded.  An  officer  was  despatched  to  call 
upon  his  excellency  the  governor,  to  report  our  arrival,  who  proved 


32 


PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA 


to  be  a  black  man.  Knowing  that  the  regulations  required  permis¬ 
sion  for  vessels  to  depart,  the  request  was  made  during  the  interview, 
which  he  readily  granted  at  any  hour  we  chose. 

The  town  of  Porto  Praya  is  prettily  situated  on  an  elevated  piece 
of  table  land,  and  looked  well  from  the  anchorage. 

The  bay  is  an  open  one,  but  is  not  exposed  to  the  prevailing 
winds.  There  is  generally  a  swell  setting  in,  which  makes  the 
landing  unpleasant  and  difficult.  The  only  landing-place  is  a  small 
rock,  some  distance  from  the  town,  and  under  a  high  bank,  on  which 
there  is,  or,  rather  was,  a  fortification,  for  it  is  now  entirely  gone  to 
decay.  It  commands  the  bay,  and  is  situated  about  two  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  horizontal  stratification  of  the  red  and  yellow- 
coloured  sandstone  shows  most  conspicuously  in  this  cliff,  and  forms 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  objects  on  this  part  of  the  island.  It  is  of 
tertiary  formation,  and  contains  many  fossils.  I  regretted  extremely 
that  my  time  did  not  permit  me  to  make  a  longer  stay,  as  we  left  the 
island  under  the  impression  that  there  is  much  here  to  be  found  that 
is  new  in  the  various  departments  of  natural  history.  Between  this 
bluff  and  the  town  is  an  extensive  valley,  in  which  are  many  date- 
palms,  cocoa-nuts,  and  a  species  of  aloe. 

On  landing,  a  stranger  is  immediately  surrounded  by  numbers 
of  the  inhabitants,  with  fruit,  vegetables,  chickens,  turkeys,  and 
monkeys,  all  pressing  him  with  bargains,  and  willing  to  take  any 
thing  for  the  purpose  of  obliging  their  customers.  Many  of  them 
continue  to  follow  until  they  meet  with  some  new  customer. 

The  soil,  rocks,  and  every  thing  around  on  the  surface,  show 
unequivocal  marks  of  volcanic  origin.  The  rock  above  the  tertiary 
formation  is  a  thick  bed  of  cellular  lava,  with  fragments  of  the  same 
strewn  in  every  direction  over  it.  A  thin  and  poor  soil  gives  but 
little  sustenance  to  a  light  herbage.  Goats  and  asses  are  found  in 
great  numbers  grazing  upon  it. 

The  length  of  our  visit  did  not  permit  us  to  make  much  exa¬ 
mination,  yet  the  character  of  the  vegetation  was  unequivocally 
African. 

The  walk  from  the  landing  to  the  town  is  exceedingly  fatiguing, 
and  the  road  deep  with  sand.  The  first  view  of  the  town  on 
entering  it  is  any  thing  but  striking,  and  all  the  ideas  formed  in  its 
favour  are  soon  dispelled.  The  houses  are  whitewashed,  and  in 
general  appearance  resemble  those  inhabited  by  the  lower  orders  in 
Madeira,  but  they  are  much  inferior  even  to  them.  The  northeast 


TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 


33 


part  of  the  town  is  composed  of  rough  stone  houses,  covered  with 
palm  leaves.  The  streets  are  wide,  and  in  the  centre  is  a  large 
public  square,  the  middle  of  which  is  occupied  by  a  small  wooden 
monument  said  to  he  emblematical  of  royalty !  A  chapel,  jail,  and 
barracks  constitute  the  principal  public  buildings.  The  fort,  which 
flanks  the  town,  is  almost  entirely  in  decay.  This  is  the  case  with 
almost  every  thing  we  saw  here :  the  place  is  indeed  little  better 
than  an  African  town.  The  houses  are  of  stone,  one  story  high, 
partly  thatched,  and  others  tiled.  Their  interior  presents  only  a 
few  articles  of  absolute  necessity.  Of  comfort  and  cleanliness,  in 
our  sense  of  the  words,  they  have  no  idea.  The  houses  and  streets 
are  filthy  in  the  extreme,  and  in  both  of  them,  pigs,  fowls,  and 
monkeys  appear  to  claim,  and  really  possess,  equal  rights  with  the 
occupants  and  owner. 

The  population  is  made  up  of  an  intermixture  of  descendants 
from  the  Portuguese,  natives,  and  negroes  from  the  adjacent  coast. 
The  Negro  race  seems  to  predominate,  woolly  hair,  flat  noses,  and 
thick  lips  being  most  frequently  met  with.  The  number  of  inha¬ 
bitants  in  St.  Jago  is  about  thirty  thousand.  Porto  Praya  contains 
two  thousand  three  hundred,  of  which  number  one  hundred  are 
native  Portuguese. 

The  language  spoken,  is  a  jargon  formed  by  a  mixture  of  the 
Portuguese  and  Negro  dialects.  Most  of  the  blacks  speak  their 
native  tongue.  Mr.  Hale,  our  philologist,  obtained  here  a  vocabu¬ 
lary  of  the  Mandingo  language,  and  found  it  to  agree  with  that 
given  by  Mungo  Park. 

The  officers  of  this  garrison  were,  like  the  governor,  all  black. 
The  latter  made  a  brilliant  appearance,  dressed  in  a  military  frock 
coat,  red  sash,  two  large  silver  epaulettes,  and  a  military  cross  on 
his  breast.  He  was  quite  good-looking,  although  extremely  cor¬ 
pulent,  and  speaks  both  French  and  Spanish  well.  He  was  very 
civil  and  attentive.  Fruit,  bread,  cheese,  and  wines  were  handed 
about.  Some  of  the  wine  was  made  on  the  island  of  Fogo,  and 
resembled  the  light  Italian  wines.  The  cheese  also  was  made  here 
from  goats’  milk,  and  resembled  the  Spanish  cheese.  After  doing 
ample  justice  to  his  excellency’s  good  fare,  we  proceeded  to  view 
the  lions  of  the  place. 

The  first  and  greatest  of  these  is  the  fountain,  or  common  watering 
place  of  the  town,  above  half  a  mile  distant  by  the  path,  in  a  valley  to 
the  west  of  the  town,  and  almost  immediately  under  it.  The  fountain 


9 


VOL.  1. 


34 


PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA 


is  surrounded  by  a  variety  of  tropical  trees,  consisting  of  dates,  cocoa- 
nuts,  bananas,  papayas,  sugar-cane,  and  tamarinds,  with  grapes, 
oranges,  limes,  &c.  &c.,  and  when  brought  into  comparison  with  the 
surrounding  lands,  may  be  termed  an  enchanting  spot;  but  what 
adds  peculiarly  to  its  effect  on  a  stranger,  is  the  novelty  of  the  objects 
that  are  brought  together.  Over  the  spring  is  a  thatched  roof,  and 
round  about  it  a  group  of  the  most  remarkable  objects  in  human 
shape  that  can  well  be  conceived.  On  one  side  blind  beggars,  dirty 
soldiers,  and  naked  children ;  on  another,  lepers,  boys  with  monkeys, 
others  with  fowls,  half-dressed  women,  asses  not  bigger  than  sheep, 
and  hogs  of  a  mammoth  breed ;  to  say  nothing  of  those  with  cutane¬ 
ous  disorders,  &c.  &c.,  that  were  undergoing  ablution.  All  conspired 
to  form  a  scene  peculiar,  I  should  think,  to  this  semi-African  popu¬ 
lation.  Here  sailors  watering  and  washing,  chatting,  talking,  and 
laughing;  there  a  group  of  11  far  niente ”  natives  of  all  sizes,  shapes, 
and  colours,  half  clothed,  with  turbaned  heads  and  handkerchiefs 
of  many  and  gay  colours,  tied  on  after  a  different  fashion  from 
what  we  had  been  accustomed  to,  the  shawls  being  reversed,  their 
ends  hanging  down  behind  instead  of  before,  completely  covering  the 
breast,  and  one  fourth  of  the  face.  -  What  portion  of  this  group  had 
honoured  the  place  in  consequence  of  our  visit,  it  would  be  difficult 
to  conjecture,  all  were  eager,  however,  to  derive  some  benefit  from 
the  meeting,  particularly  the  beggars,  who  are  equally  pertinacious 
with  those  found  elsewhere,  and  are  certainly  great  objects  of 
commiseration.  This  fountain  barely  supplies  the  wants  of  the 
inhabitants  and  shipping,  and  they  are  now  about  building  a  reser¬ 
voir.  The  whole  of  the  stone  for  it  was  prepared  in  Portugal,  and 
made  ready  for  putting  up.  It  is  to  be  of  marble.  The  water  for 
its  supply  is  brought  two  miles  in  iron  pipes.  It  is  said  that  it  will 
cost  $130,000,  and  is  the  only  improvement  that  has  been  undertaken 
by  government  for  many  a  year. 

A  market  is  held  daily  in  the  morning  when  any  vessels  are  in 
port.  The  square  in  which  it  is  held  is  quite  a  large  one,  with  a 
cross  in  its  centre.  The  market  is  not  of  much  extent,  but  a  great 
variety  of  tropical  fruits,  of  the  kinds  before  enumerated,  are  exposed 
for  sale  in  small  quantities,  as  well  as  vegetables.  These  consist  of 
cabbage-leaves,  beans,  pumpkins,  squashes,  corn,  potatoes,  yams, 
mandioca,  &c.  All  these  were  spread  out  on  the  large  leaves  of  the 
cocoa-nut  tree.  No  kind  of  meat  was  for  sale.  The  only  articles 
of  this  description  were  chickens  four  or  five  days  old,  tied  up  in 


TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 


35 


bunches,  and  some  eggs.  In  order  to  obtain  beef,  it  is  necessary  to 
buy  the  cattle  at  the  cattle-yard,  where,  on  previous  notice  being 
given,  you  may  choose  those  that  suit  for  slaughter.  They  are  in 
general  of  small  size,  and  dark-coloured.  Those  we  saw  were  from 
the  interior  of  the  island,  where  they  are  said  to  thrive  well. 

The  morning  drill  of  the  recruits  which  was  witnessed,  was 
amusing.  They  were  cleanly  dressed,  but  the  rattan  was  freely 
used  by  the  sergeant,  and  what  seemed  characteristic  or  in  keeping 
with  appearances  around,  the  sergeant  during  the  drill  ordered  one 
of  his  men  from  the  ranks,  to  bring  him  some  fire  to  light  his 
cigar ! 

No  trades  were  observed,  and  but  one  small  carpenter’s  shop.  A 
few  shops  were  supplied  with  cotton,  hardware,  &c.  There  were  like¬ 
wise  a  number  of  little  wine  shops,  where  they  also  sold  fruit,  which 
they  usually  have  in  great  plenty,  but  all  their  crops  depend  much 
upon  the  rains,  and  the  inhabitants  have  also  become  indifferent  or 
careless  about  raising  more  than  for  their  own  supply,  from  the 
heavy  exactions  of  government  made  upon  every  thing  that  is 
cultivated.  The  demand  for  shipping  has  of  late  years  very  much 
decreased.  The  improvement  in  the  supplies  and  comforts  on  board 
of  vessels  on  long  voyages,  now  make  it  unnecessary  to  touch  in  port, 
as  was  formerly  deemed  unavoidable. 

Porto  Praya  is  yet  visited  by  whale  ships  for  supplies.  Although 
the  soil  is  poor,  and  the  crops  very  uncertain,  yet  the  tropical  fruits 
and  some  vegetables  can  always  be  obtained  here.  They  are  usually, 
if  time  is  allowed,  brought  from  the  interior.  The  inhabitants  have 
at  times  suffered  almost  the  extremes  of  famine,  in  consequence  of 
the  droughts  that  prevail  for  successive  years,  and  especially  during 
the  one  that  took  place  in  1832.  It  gave  me  pleasure  to  hear  that 
the  timely  aid  sent  there  during  its  prevalence  from  the  United 
States  was  remembered  with  gratitude. 

The  exports  from  these  islands  are  salt,  some  ordinary  wine,  hides, 
goats’  skins,  and  orchilla.  The  latter  is  a  government  monopoly. 
Ninety  thousand  milrees  were  paid  by  the  company  for  the  yearly 
crop,  and  it  is  said  at  that  price  to  yield  a  handsome  profit. 

The  climate  of  these  islands  is  said  to  be  healthy,  though 
exceedingly  warm.  It  is  subject  to  fevers,  which  generally  take 
place  during  the  rainy  months  of  July  and  August.  There  is  an 
indistinctness  in  the  atmosphere  that  I  have  not  experienced  else¬ 
where,  which  causes  every  thing  to  be  ill  defined,  although  the 


36 


PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA 


day  may  be  fair.  The  same  appearance  was  observed  after  a  shower 
of  rain  as  before.  The  temperature  of  the  air  was  found  here  to  be 
75-7°,  and  of  the  water  81°. 

The  seine  was  drawn  for  fish  in  one  of  the  coves  to  the  eastward 
of  the  anchorage,  in  what  we  understood  was  a  place  well  adapted 
for  the  purpose,  but  it  did  not  prove  so.  I  should  prefer  the  western 
beach  as  offering  better  luck,  and  being  more  advantageous. 

Bats  were  the  only  wild  mammiferous  animals  seen  here.  For 
the  short  time  we  remained,  our  naturalists  were  actively  employed, 
and  many  specimens  were  added  to  our  collections  in  Ornithology, 
Botany,  Shells,  and  Zoophytes,  with  some  fossils  from  the  bank 
already  spoken  of. 

Slaves  are  imported  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  settlers  or  heads 
of  families  are  not  allowed  to  bring  with  them  more  than  ten  slaves. 
There  was  one  at  the  consul’s,  recently  imported  from  the  Foolah 
district  in  Africa,  who  was  purchased  by  him  for  one  hundred  and 
fifty  dollars. 

The  costumes  are  here  so  various  that  it  can  scarcely  be  said  that 
any  one  of  them  is  peculiar  to  the  island.  The  men  generally  wear 
a  white  shirt  and  trousers,  with  a  dark  vest,  principally  the  cast¬ 
off  clothing  of  the  whites.  Others  go  quite  naked,  excepting  a 
straw  hat;  others  again  are  in  loose  shirts.  The  women  have  a 
shawl  fastened  around  them,  with  occasionally  another  thrown  over 
them,  covering  the  mouth  and  bust,  and  crossing  over  behind.  The 
children  for  the  most  part  go  naked. 

The  Relief  not  having  arrived,  I  deemed  it  an  unnecessary 
detention  to  await  her  here.  There  was  great  necessity  of  reaching 
Rio  de  Janeiro  as  soon  as  possible,  in  order  to  complete  our  outfits, 
and  put  the  vessels  in  a  fit  condition  to  meet  the  Antarctic  cruising 
as  soon  as  possible.  I  therefore  determined  to  proceed  thither  forth¬ 
with.  The  store-ship  did  not  reach  Porto  Praya  until  the  18th, 
after  a  passage  from  Hampton  Roads  of  sixty  days.  Nothing  more 
truly  illustrates  the  necessity  of  navigating  in  the  prevailing  winds, 
than  this  passage  of  the  Relief  compared  with  that  of  the  squadron. 
We  took  the  route  by  Madeira,  over  one  thousand  miles  greater  in 
distance,  remained  there  a  week,  and  yet  we  arrived  at  Porto  Praya 
eleven  days  sooner.  The  Relief,  pursuing  the  direct  route,  had 
light  baffling  winds  during  her  whole  passage.  Although  something 
is  undoubtedly  due  to  her  dull  sailing,  yet  the  difference  is  too  great 
to  be  entirely  attributed  to  that  cause.  The  winds  were  generally 


TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 


37 


found  by  her  from  the  northward  and  eastward,  and  southward  and 
eastward,  whilst  we  in  a  higher  latitude,  had  them  from  the  south¬ 
west,  and  the  westward. 

On  the  7th  of  October  we  left  Porto  Praya,  and  stood  for  Patty’s 
Overfalls,  as  laid  down  on  the  chart  in  latitude  11°  N.  and  longitude 
24°  25'  W.  In  the  afternoon  we  spoke  the  Danish  brig  Lion,  from 
Rio  de  Janeiro.  She  had  crossed  the  line  in  longitude  27°  W.,  and 
had  brought  the  trades  to  6°  30'  N.  We  lost  the  trade  winds  the 
day  after  we  left  Porto  Praya,  the  8th  of  October,  in  latitude  12°  N., 
and  longitude  23°  30'  W.  The  winds  then  became  variable,  and 
squalls  of  rain  ensued.  The  upper  clouds  had  still  a  quick  motion 
to  the  westward.  On  the  same  day  we  spoke  the  Crusader,  seventy- 
five  days  from  Bombay,  which  vessel  was  in  want  of  medical  aid. 
I  sent  the  surgeon  on  board,  and  administered  to  their  wants  every 
thing  that  was  in  our  power.  It  afforded  us  no  small  pleasure 
to  supply  them  with  some  fruit  and  vegetables,  which  were  very 
acceptable  to  the  numerous  passengers.  The  Crusader  had  crossed 
the  line  in  longitude  22°  W.,  and  lost  the  trades  in  latitude  7°  30'  N. 

On  the  9th  we  reached  the  supposed  position  of  Patty’s  Overfalls, 
and  were  becalmed  close  in  their  proximity  for  forty-eight  hours. 
Nothing  was  seen  of  them.  We  had  passed  through  rips  trending 
east  and  west,  but  no  current  was  found  on  the  trials  which  were 
made,  nor  did  the  reckoning  show  any.  If  any  had  existed,  we 
must  have  been  made  aware  of  it  during  the  time  we  were  becalmed, 
for  we  remained  nearly  in  the  same  position  forty-eight  hours. 
Thence  we  stood  for  Warley’s  Shoal.  The  weather  had  the  same 
indistinctness  that  we  had  first  observed  at  Porto  Praya.  It  might 
be  termed  a  dry  haze. 

In  this  part  of  the  ocean  we  passed  through  spaces  of  water,  from 
ten  to  thirty  miles  in  width,  in  which  the  temperature  of  the  water 
frequently  rose  three  or  four  degrees.  This  increase  seemed  to  me 
to  indicate  the  existence  of  currents.  I  was,  therefore,  very  parti¬ 
cular  in  watching  for  them,  and  the  only  indication  we  had  was  of  a 
very  slight  one  to  the  southward  and  eastward.  Our  winds  continued 
light  and  variable,  and  sailing  in  squadron,  we  had  many  opportu¬ 
nities  of  observing  their  different  courses.  On  the  12th  of  October 
a  remarkable  one  happened,  in  which  all  the  squadron,  while  sailing 
with  a  brisk  breeze  from  the  southeast,  were  taken  aback,  and  at 
one  time  all  apparently  had  the  wind  from  different  quarters, 
although  but  a  few  cables’  length  distant  from  one  another.  The 

10 


VOL.  I. 


38 


PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA 


Peacock  and  Porpoise  were  very  near  running-  into  each  other. 
The  whirl  was  in  the  direction  of  the  hands  of  a  watch.  On  the 
night  of  the  16th  we  parted  company  with  the  Peacock,  and  on  the 
17th  spoke  an  English  whaler,  seventy  days  from  New  Zealand,  by 
the  way  of  Cape  Horn,  who  reported  he  had  lost  the  southeast 
trades  in  latitude  6°  55'  N.,  longitude  21°  10'  W. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th  thirty  falling  stars  were  seen  in  as 
many  minutes,  shooting  in  all  directions  from  the  constellations 
Gemini  and  Taurus.  On  board  the  Peacock,  some  sixty  miles  to 
the  westward  of  us,  they  were  much  more  brilliant  and  in  greater 
numbers. 

On  the  22d  several  land  birds  were  seen  about  the  vessels.  They 
proved  to  be  the  common  European  swallow. 

The  24th  we  reached  the  position  assigned  to  Warley’s  Shoal,  in 
latitude  5°  4'  N.,  longitude  21°  25'  W.  The  vessels  were  spread 
as  before  described,  in  open  order,  covering  as  much  space  as 
possible.  We  passed  over  the  supposed  locality,  but  saw  no 
appearance  of  shoal  water,  or  danger  of  any  kind.  Here  we 
experienced  westerly  winds,  and  took  advantage  of  them  to  make 
easting.  After  we  had  lost  the  trades  in  latitude  12°  N.,  I  ob¬ 
served  when  the  upper  stratum  of  clouds  could  be  seen,  that  they 
were  passing  from  east-northeast,  with  rapidity  to  the  westward. 

We  now  ran  for  the  French  Shoal,  in  latitude  4°  5'  N.,  longitude 
20°  35'  W.  Here  the  wind  inclined  to  the  southward,  and  we  pro¬ 
ceeded  as  far  east  as  longitude  13°  W.,  passing  over  the  two  positions 
laid  down  by  the  French  and  English  hydrographers,  but  saw 
nothing  of  it. 

We  now  tacked  to  the  southward,  to  cross  the  equator  in  lon¬ 
gitude  17°  W.  The  weather  had  changed,  the  rains  which  we 
had  experienced  at  night  ceased,  and  the  extremely  indistinct 
atmosphere  which  at  times  had  prevailed  for  the  last  fortnight, 
disappeared.  It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  peculiar  effect  this  hazi¬ 
ness  produced.  It  seemed  to  me  an  effect  the  opposite  of  that  of 
looming,  apparently  diminishing  all  objects.  Although  the  horizon 
was  seen,  yet  the  sea  and  sky  were  so  blended  together  that  it  was 
difficult  for  the  eye  to  fix  upon  or  define  it  at  any  moment.  It  was 
impossible  to  use  the  dip  sector.  At  the  same  time  it  was  perfectly 
clear  over  head,  with  a  bright  sun,  and  the  upper  cirrus  clouds, 
when  seen,  were  in  rapid  motion  to  the  westward. 

The  quantity  of  rain  that  fell  between  9°  30'  and  5°  north  lati- 


TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 


39 


tude,  was  6-15  inches  during  ten  days.  The  greatest  fall  in 
twenty-four  hours  was  1-95  inches.  The  temperature  of  the  rain 
on  several  trials  varied  from  69°  to  72°,  that  of  the  air  being  at  the 
time  77°. 

The  nights  were  now  beautiful  until  near  morning,  when  it 
generally  clouded  over,  and  remained  overcast  with  flying  clouds 
until  evening.  The  zodiacal  light  was  once  or  twice  observed, 
but  the  presence  of  these  clouds  for  the  most  part  prevented  it  from 
being  seen. 

On  the  29th,  in  latitude  3°  40'  N.,  our  observations  gave  a  current 
of  ten  miles  in  twenty-four  hours,  to  the  north.  Until  the  3d  of 
November  we  had  light  winds ;  the  upper  stratum  of  clouds  were 
now  seen  moving  from  the  east.  On  the  4th  we  had  a  cry  of 
breakers  from  the  masthead.  We  immediately  changed  our  course 
and  ran  for  the  appearance,  but  it  proved  on  nearing  it  to  have  been 
one  of  the  many  optical  illusions  seen  at  sea,  from  the  effect  of  light 
and  shadow. 

On  board  the  Peacock,  on  the  30th  of  October,  in  latitude  1°  30' 
N.,  longitude  18°  W.,  they  witnessed  a  remarkable  appearance, 
resembling  the  aurora  borealis,  radiating  from  the  northwest  point  of 
the  horizon  in  different  directions,  and  extending  from  southwest 
round  by  the  north  to  the  eastward,  at  an  altitude  of  from  10°  to 
50° ;  afterwards  reaching  to  the  zenith,  and  passing  over  the  moon’s 
disk,  encircling  her  with  a  faint  halo  of  twenty  degrees  in  diameter. 
It  continued  an  hour,  and  although  it  was  bright  moonlight,  the 
phenomenon  was  very  distinct  and  beautiful. 

On  the  5th,  the  winds  drew  to  the  south-southeast,  and  we  crossed 
the  line,  as  we  had  intended,  in  longitude  17°  W.,  which  enabled  us 
to  pass  over  and  examine  the  supposed  locality  of  the  Triton  Bank,  in 
longitude  17°  46'  W.,  latitude  00°  32'  00"  S.  The  current  was 
experienced  this  day  to  be  setting  to  the  northeast,  fifteen  miles  in 
the  last  twenty-four  hours.  This  night  the  sea  was  extremely 
brilliant,  showing  in  large  luminous  patches.  The  light  proved  to 
be  occasioned  by  a  large  species  of  Pyrosoma,  some  of  which  were 
ten  inches  in  length,  and  two  inches  in  diameter.  Many  other 
phosphorescent  animalculse  were  taken,  and  some  rips  that  were  seen, 
exhibited  long  lines  of  brilliant  phosphorescent  light.  Temperature 
of  water  76-5°.  Our  dipping  needle  on  the  equator  gave  23°  30'. 
Hourly  observations  were  made  for  forty-eight  hours  to  ascertain 
the  oscillations  of  the  barometer  under  the  equator,  (for  which  see 


40 


PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA 


Appendix  XVI.)  The  periods  of  oscillation  were  fonnd  to  be  as  fol¬ 
lows  :  the  maxima  at  nine  a.  m.  and  nine  p.  m.,  and  the  minima  at 
three  a.  m.  and  three  p.  m.  The  variation  was  T  of  an  inch,  and  was 
found  to  be  very  regular,  from  latitude  3°  30'  N.  to  4°  S. 

We  had  now  heavy  deposits  of  dew  on  several  fine  and  cloudless 
evenings.  Indeed  the  sun  had  scarcely  set  before  the  ship  was  quite 
wet  with  it.  One  of  the  essential  requisites  supposed  necessary  by 
Dr.  Wells  for  a  deposit  of  dew,  was  certainly  wanting  in  this  case, 
viz.,  that  “  The  temperature  of  the  body  on  which  it  is  deposited, 
should  be  considerably  lower  than  the  surrounding  air.”  The  tem¬ 
perature  of  the  air  and  ship  having  remained  the  same  for  several 
days  at  about  78°;  all  objects,  hammock-cloths,  spars,  sails,  and 
rigging,  so  far  as  could  be  ascertained,  showed  the  same.  And  at 
the  time  when  the  dew  was  observed  to  be  most  copious,  we  had  a 
fine  breeze.  It  has  generally  been  supposed  that  dew  never  falls  off 
soundings.  This  at  least  is  an  old  saying  among  seamen,  but  our 
observations  are  at  variance  with  this  notion,  for  as  far  as  every 
indication  went,  both  by  sounding  and  blue  water,  we  certainly  had 
no  bottom. 

The  supposed  position  of  the  Triton  Shoal  was  now  passed  over, 
and  examined  carefully  in.  the  same  manner  as  heretofore  described, 
sounding  at  the  same  time  with  two  and  three  hundred  fathoms 
of  line.  Nothing  of  the  kind  was  perceived,  nor  was  there  any 
indication  of  soundings  in  the  discoloration  of  the  water,  or  any 
change  in  its  temperature. 

We  next  sailed  for  a  vigia  laid  down  on  the  chart. 

On  the  7th  November  at  noon  we  were  in  longitude  18°  20'  W., 
and  latitude  3°  30'  N.  Here  we  first  experienced  the  influence  of  the 
equatorial  current,  and  found  it  setting  west  by  north  at  the  rate  of 
half  a  mile  per  hour.  This  vigia  was  not  seen.  I  then  stood  for 
Bouvet’s  Sandy  Isle,  or  its  reported  position.  We  saw  nothing  of 
it  whatever.  I  was  very  desirous  of  continuing  my  search  farther 
to  the  west,  from  the  report  I  had  seen  of  various  vessels  having 
experienced  shocks  of  earthquakes,  and  the  belief  having  been  en¬ 
tertained  that  shoals  might  have  been  formed  by  them.  The  equa¬ 
torial  currents  having  been  felt,  I  was  aware  that  in  getting  farther 
to  the  west,  I  should  lose  the  opportunity  of  examining  the  locality 
where  that  distinguished  navigator,  Admiral  Krusenstern,  supposed 
he  saw  a  volcano.  I  therefore  gave  up  proceeding  farther  to  the 
westward  in  this  latitude,  and  hauled  up  for  its  position. 


TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 


41 


It  was  now  the  9th  of  November;  we  had  delightful  weather  and 
moderate  breezes  from  the  south  and  east. 

An  amusing  circumstance  occurred  this  night.  In  our  course  we 
passed  very  near  a  large  sail,  which  from  the  night  being  dark,  the 
officer  of  the  deck  of  the  Porpoise  mistook  for  the  Vincennes,  although 
sailing  on  a  different  course.  He  immediately,  agreeably  to  his 
orders,  followed  the  vessel,  and  continued  after  her  until  morning, 
when,  to  their  surprise,  they  discovered  that  it  was  a  large  Dutch 
ship.  Fortunately,  I  had  perceived  the  ship  pass,  and  conjectured, 
when  we  found  the  Porpoise  was  not  in  sight  at  daylight,  the  nature 
of  the  mistake.  I  therefore  retraced  my  steps,  and  in  an  hour  or  two 
we  again  came  in  sight  of  her,  then  tacked  and  proceeded  on  our 
course.  On  the  next  day,  the  time  being  very  favourable,  we  hove  to, 
to  get  a  deep  sea  sounding  with  the  wire  line,  and  ran  out  one  thou¬ 
sand  six  hundred  fathoms  of  it.  On  reeling  it  up,  the  wire  parted, 
and  we  lost  nine  hundred  and  sixty  fathoms  of  line,  with  our  sound¬ 
ing  apparatus,  including  one  of  Six’s  self-registering  thermometers. 
The  wire  was  badly  prepared  and  ill  adapted  to  the  purpose. 

On  the  11th  we  found  ourselves  near  the  location  of  Krusenstern’s 
supposed  shoal,  ran  over  the  position  in  parallel  lines,  and  satisfied 
ourselves  of  its  non-existence. 

Having  now  examined  all  the  localities  which  were  designated  in 
my  instructions,  I  made  all  sail  for  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

We  now  found  ourselves  in  the  equatorial  current,  setting  us  west 
twenty-five  miles  in  twenty-four  hours. 

On  the  nights  of  the  11th,  12th,  and  13th,  we  kept  a  watch  for  the 
periodical  showers  of  stars.  About  thirty  were  seen  in  the  mid  watch 
of  the  13th,  proceeding  from  the  Pleiades,  and  shooting  in  a  northerly 
direction.  Our  position  was  in  latitude  6°  15'  S.,  and  longitude  24° 
25'  W.  The  Peacock,  whose  situation  was  about  forty  miles  to  the 
westward  of  us  at  the  time,  saw  a  number  shooting  from  the  constel¬ 
lations  Orion  and  Leo.  The  equatorial  current  was  now  strongest, 
setting  thirty  miles  in  a  day  to  the  westward ;  the  breeze  had  become 
very  steady  and  strong ;  the  upper  current  was  found  to  correspond 
with  the  direction  of  the  lower.  Every  day  the  wind  was  observed  to 
freshen  as  the  sun  was  coming  to  the  meridian,  and  continued  so  until 
the  afternoon,  when  it  died  away  again,  freshening  after  dark,  and 
continuing  until  near  daylight. 

On  the  16th  of  November  we  passed  the  magnetic  equator  in 
latitude  13°  30'  S.,  longitude  30°  18'  W.  The  variation  was  found 

11 


VOL.  I. 


42 


PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA 


by  careful  observations  to  be  10°  30'  W.  We  continued  to  pursue 
our  course  rapidly,  experiencing  the  current  setting  more  to  the 
southward,  and  upwards  of  twenty  miles  a  day. 

On  the  22d  we  made  Cape  Frio ;  here  we  fell  in  with  and  boarded 
the  ship  Louisiana,  in  fifty  days  from  New  York,  and  were  much 
gratified  by  getting  letters  and  papers. 

The  progressive  temperature  on  the  passage  from  the  Cape  de 
Verde  Islands  to  Rio,  was  as  follows:  it  rose  until  it  reached  its 
maximum  in  9°  24'  N.,  water  83-5°,  whilst  the  air  was  at  81-6°, 
from  thence  to  striking  soundings,  it  decreased  to  75°,  and  on  sound¬ 
ings  69°. 

The  soundings  obtained  off  the  Cape  were  in  fifty  fathoms  ouze  and 
shells,  the  water  changing  its  colour  to  a  deep  green,  and  as  we 
approached  the  harbour,  to  a  dark  olive.  On  the  afternoon  of  the 
23d  of  November,  we  took  a  light  wind  from  the  southeast,  and  with 
all  sail  set  stood  in  for  the  magnificent  harbour  of  Rio  Janeiro.  Our 
attention  was  drawn  first  to  the  high,  fantastic,  and  abrupt  peaks  of 
Gavia,  the  Sugar  Loaf,  and  Corcovado,  on  our  left;  whilst  on  our 
right,  we  had  the  bold  point  of  Santa  Cruz ;  then  before  us  the  city  of 
San  Salvador,  and  the  towns  of  San  Domingo,  with  Praya  Grande 
opposite,  and  the  islands  and  fleet  that  lay  between  them,  decking 
this  beautiful  expanse  of  water.  These  objects,  with  the  pinnacles  of 
the  Organ  Mountains  for  a  background,  form  such  a  scene  that  it 
would  be  difficult  to  point  out  in  what  manner  it  could  be  improved. 
The  life  and  stir  created  by  the  number  of  vessels,  boats,  and  steamers 
of  various  forms  and  of  all  sizes  passing  to  and  fro,  give  great  anima¬ 
tion  to  the  whole. 

The  mountains  present  a  very  peculiar  appearance.  Their  tops 
and  sides  have  a  rounded  or  worn  surface  destitute  of  verdure,  with, 
the  exception  of  here  and  there  a  yellowish  patch,  produced  by  the 
Tillandsias,  which  in  places  cover  the  rocks.  The  abruptness  of  the 
Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  and  those  immediately  behind  Santa  Cruz, 
strikes  the  spectator  very  forcibly. 

The  shipping  do  not  form  as  in  other  places  a  dense  forest  of  masts. 
There  being  no  wharves,  they  are  obliged  to  lie  at  anchor,  exhibiting 
their  proportions  and  symmetry  to  great  advantage.  They  are  usually 
seen  grouped  together,  with  their  different  flags  flying,  forming  a 
picture  that  a  painter  would  delight  in. 

As  we  proceeded  up  the  harbour,  our  own  flag  was  seen  to  wave 
over  that  magnificent  specimen  of  naval  architecture,  the  Indepen- 


TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 


43 


dence,  and  as  we  passed  her  onr  bosoms  beat  to  the  tune  of  Hail 
Columbia,  played  by  the  band. 

There  is  a  feeling  of  security  on  entering  the  harbour  of  Rio,  that 
I  have  seldom  experienced  elsewhere,  not  even  in  our  own  waters. 
The  mountains  seem  as  it  were  to  afford  complete  protection  from  the 
winds  and  ocean.  We  anchored  near  Enxados  or  Hospital  Island, 
and  found  the  Peacock  had  arrived  here  three  days  before  us,  and 
that  she  was  proceeding  with  her  repairs  rapidly.  The  vessels 
being  altogether  unfit  for  the  southern  cruise,  it  became  necessary 
to  effect  the  requisite  repairs  as  speedily  as  possible.  While  I 
could  not  but  deprecate  the  loss  of  time  and  the  shortening  of  the 
season  for  our  southern  operations,  I  felt  it  an  imperative  duty  that 
I  owed  to  those  who  Avere  engaged  with  me  on  this  service,  not  to 
suffer  them  to  go  among  the  many  dangers  of  a  southern  cruise  badly 
provided  with  the  means  to  secure  them  against  ordinary  accidents, 
and  to  encounter  the  weather  we  must  anticipate. 

On  our  arrival  I  was  told  it  was  the  beginning  of  the  hot  season, 
and  that  rains  usually  prevailed  during  the  coming  months.  This 
was  unpleasant  news,  particularly  as  I  was  desirous  whilst  making 
the  necessary  repairs  on  the  vessels,  to  complete  a  set  of  astronomical 
observations,  and  to  perform  a  series  of  experiments  with  the  pendu¬ 
lums,  &c.  This  information,  however,  I  did  not  find  to  be  correct, 
and  from  the  examination  of  the  meteorological  tables  (see  Appendix 
XVII.)  obligingly  furnished  me  by  John  Gardner,  Esq.,  an  American 
gentleman  residing  at  Rio,  I  am  not  disposed  to  credit  this  common 
saying.  It  therein  appears  that  rain  falls  as  often  in  other  months 
as  in  December,  and  my  experience  during  the  time  of  our  stay, 
corresponds  with  his  tables.  The  first  fortnight  we  had  occasional 
rains,  but  before  we  left  the  harbour,  our  parties  reported  that  the 
country  was  suffering  from  drought. 

Mr.  Gardner  has  also  obligingly  favoured  me  with  a  table  (see 
Appendix  XVIII.)  showing  the  monthly  average  of  passages  from 
the  United  States  to  Rio  during  eight  years,  from  1834  to  1841. 
The  shortest  passage  occurred  in  the  year  1835,  and  the  longest  in 
1840.  The  former  by  a  very  fast  vessel  in  twenty-nine  days ;  the 
latter  by  an  ordinary  merchant  ship  in  ninety  days.  The  Relief, 
our  store  ship,  had  one  hundred  days  in  1838 !  but  this  includes 
touching  three  days  at  the  Cape  de  Verdes. 

It  Avill  be  seen  that  the  average  monthly  passage  does  not  vary 
but  a  few  days  throughout  the  whole  eight  years.  The  Avinter 


44  PASSAGE  FROM  MADEIRA  TO  RIO  JANEIRO. 

months  are  the  most  favourable,  in  consequence  of  the  strong  westerly 
winds  that  prevail  in  the  North  Atlantic  at  that  season,  and  also  to 
the  prevalence  of  the  northeast  monsoons  on  the  coast  of  Brazil. 

Our  observations  would  point  out  the  necessity  of  dull  sailing 
vessels  not  crossing  the  equator  to  the  westward  of  20°  of  west  lon¬ 
gitude,  where  the  equatorial  current  begins  to  he  felt;  but  vessels 
that  sail  well,  may  cross  it  as  far  as  26°  west,  particularly  when  the 
northeast  monsoons  prevail  in  their  full  strength,  and  very  much 
shorten  their  passage  by  such  a  course. 

During  the  repairs,  I  endeavoured  to  employ  my  time  and  that  of 
the  officers  and  scientific  gentlemen  in  as  advantageous  a  manner  as 
possible.  We  are  indebted  to  the  Hon.  William  Hunter,  our  charge 
d’affaires,  and  our  consul,  William  Slacum,  Esq.,  for  many  kind¬ 
nesses  and  attention  received  during  our  stay.  Through  their  inter¬ 
cession,  I  obtained  the  use  of  the  small  island  of  Enxados,  which 
was  well  adapted  to  our  purposes.  The  instruments  and  stores  were 
allowed  to  be  landed  there  free  of  inspection,  and  every  assistance  we 
could  desire  was  afforded  us  by  the  government  and  its  officers.  How 
different  a  policy  and  treatment  from  that  pursued  towards  Captain 
Cook  some  seventy  years  before,  under  an  ignorant  and  jealous  colo¬ 
nial  government. 


WATERING  PLACE,  POIITO  PltAYA. 


CHAPTER  III 


CONTENTS. 

CITY  OF  SAN  SALVADOR— ITS  IMPROVEMENT— ITS  PRESENT  CONDITION  — CHURCHES  — 
THE  MISERICORDIA  —  FUNERALS  —  EMPEROR’S  BIRTHDAY  —  AQUEDUCTS  —  GEOLOGICAL 
CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY— PUBLIC  GARDEN  —  MUSEUM  — BAY  AND  HARBOUR- 
VEGETATION— BOTANIC  GARDEN— SLAVE  POPULATION— COFFEE-CARRIERS— RESEARCHES 
INTO  THE  NATIONS  OF  AFRICA —TREATMENT  OF  SLAVES  — STREETS  OF  THE  CITY  — 
SOCIETY— WHITE-JACKET  BALL— ARRIVAL  OF  THE  RELIEF  — ASCENT  OF  THE  SUGAR 
LOAF— SURVEYS  — DEFECTS  IN  THE  EQUIPMENT  OF  THE  SQUADRON  —  TRIP  TO  THE 
ORGAN  MOUNTAINS— JAUNT  TO  PIEDADE— CONCLUSION  OF  THE  SURVEYS  AND  OBSER¬ 
VATION'S— ASCENT  OF  THE  CORCOVADO. 


CHAP  TEE  IIP 


RIO  JANEIRO. 

18  3  8. 

The  city  of  San  Salvador,  better  known  as  Rio  de  Janeiro,  has 
been  often  described.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  a  great  change 
appeared  to  have  taken  place  within  a  few  years,  as  well  in  its 
outward  appearance  as  in  its  government  and  institutions,  that  gives 
to  the  whole  a  different  aspect  from  what  we  read  of.  Under  its 
former  monarch,  Don  Pedro  the  First,  it  had  all  the  aspect  of  a 
court  residence :  now  it  is  the  very  reverse.  I  shall,  therefore,  give 
my  impressions,  and  a  picture  of  its  state  as  we  found  it  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  year  1838. 

Republican  forms,  habits,  and  customs,  are  gradually  creeping  in 
under  its  new  and  reformed  constitution.  It  is  not  to  be  denied  that 
the  people  now  appear  to  be  much  better  off  than  formerly,  and  more 
at  liberty  to  carry  on  their  lawful  pursuits.  Commerce,  and  inter¬ 
course  with  foreigners,  are  every  day  making  alterations  for  the 
better.  Every  one,  on  his  first  landing  at  Rio,  will  be  struck  with  the 
indiscriminate  mingling  of  all  classes,  in  all  places,  all  appearing  on 
terms  of  the  utmost  equality.  Officers,  soldiers,  and  priests,  both 
black  and  white,  mixing  and  performing  their  respective  duties, 
without  regard  to  colour  or  appearance.  The  only  distinction  seems 
to  be  that  of  freedom  and  slavery.  There  are  many  wealthy  free 
blacks,  highly  respectable,  who  amalgamate  with  the  white  families, 
and  are  apparently  received  on  a  perfect  equality.  The  police, 
too,  consisting  of  a  national  guard,  has  taken  away  those  forms 
of  military  parade  that  formerly  existed.  An  air  of  independence 
is  creeping  in  even  among  the  working  classes.  Any  little  ser¬ 
vice  that  is  required,  and  for  which  they  are  well  paid,  they  appear 


48 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


to  consider  as  a  favour  done  you.  The  mechanical  arts  are  at  least 
half  a  century  behind  those  of  our  own  country.  The  churches, 
which  are  numerous,  are  falling  into  decay,  which  gives  a  dila¬ 
pidated  look  to  the  city,  its  religious  ceremonies  are  dispensed  with, 
and  to  crown  all,  the  steps  of  the  churches  are  made  a  market¬ 
place  for  the  sale  of  sheep,  pigeons,  fruit,  &c.  To  judge  from 
appearances,  and  the  attendance  on  its  services,  there  exists  little 
religious  feeling  towards  the  Romish  Church.  It  is  true,  the  same 
constant  ringing  of  bells  occurs  that  is  to  be  heard  in  all  Catholic 
countries,  and  other  outward  signs  are  still  kept  up ;  but  the  priest¬ 
hood  are  not  held  in  such  awe  as  they  formerly  were,  and  society 
seems  to  be  breaking  through  the  trammels  that  have  so  long 
enslaved  the  female  portion  of  it.  Religion  is  a  mere  name  among 
the  youth  of  Brazil.  The  aged  are  still  observant  of  its  ceremonies, 
but  little  or  no  attention  is  paid  to  the  Sabbath.  The  stores  do 
business,  and  the  workshops  are  open  the  same  as  on  other  days. 
A  few  are  seen  going  to  worship  in  the  morning  of  that  day,  but 
a  greater  number  to  the  billiard-tables  in  the  afternoon,  and  the 
theatres  at  night.  There  is  an  Episcopal  church,  and  a  missionary 
of  the  Methodist  persuasion  from  the  United  States  resident  here. 

We  saw  Rio  de  Janeiro  under  its  most  favourable  aspect,  that  of 
the  holidays,  when  the  church  had  put  on  all  her  finery  and  decora¬ 
tions,  and  every  one,  slave  as  well  as  master,  seemed  intent  upon 
enjoying  himself.  The  Christmas  week  or  holidays  give  a  respite 
from  all  labour,  and  various  are  the  amusements.  The  churches 
are  decked  and  the  services  extraordinary. 

The  neglect  of  the  public  walks  and  roads  shows  a  want  of  proper 
attention,  and  strikes  the  visiter  as  different  from  the  usual  order  of 
things  around  a  court.  So  far  as  cleanliness  goes,  Rio,  I  should 
think,  is  not  much  improved.  Yet  it  has  every  advantage  to  make 
it  a  clean  city,  but  the  desire  appears  to  be  wanting.  Neither  do  I 
intend  to  assert  that  its  style  of  buildings  is  changed.  Although  the 
government  is  doing  little,  yet  one  sees  the  spirit  of  enterprise 
among  the  citizens.  Many  private  dwellings  are  being  erected,  and 
I  understood  that  many  improvements  were  taking  place. 

The  houses  of  the  city  are  strongly  built  of  stone,  cemented 
together  with  clay ;  this  is  used  in  consequence  of  the  scarcity  of 
lime,  which  is  only  obtained  by  burning  shells  fished  up  from  the 
bay.  The  houses  are  plastered  on  the  outside,  and  have  a  pretty 
appearance  and  colour.  The  floors,  beams,  and  roofs,  are  made  of 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


49 


the  hard  wood  of  the  country,  of  great  size  and  strength,  which  are 
necessary  from  the  great  tile  roof  they  have  to  bear.  Very  few  of 
the  houses  have  yards,  cellars,  or  gardens,  consequently  they  are 
still  greatly  incommoded  from  the  want  of  water-closets,  detrimental 
both  to  health  and  comfort,  and  not  only  an  annoyance  and  incon 
venience  to  the  inhabitants  themselves,  but  is  shared  by  the  stranger 
in  passing  through  the  streets. 

We  of  course  saw  all  that  was  to  be  seen  in  Rio.  The  churches 
claimed  our  first  attention.  They  are  richly  decorated  in  the 
interior,  with  massive  gold  and  silver  ornaments,  and  at  this  time 
glittering  with  gems  and  precious  stones.  On  some  of  the  altars  of 
the  saints  it  is  the  practice  to  suspend  the  diseased  parts  of  the  body 
in  wax,  in  honour  of  the  cure  supposed  to  have  been  effected  by  the 
saints’  intercession.  The  sight  of  these  is  truly  disgusting,  although 
they  are  far  from  being  well  executed.  The  chapel  of  St.  Cecilia 
was  visited  on  the  saint’s  day,  25th  November.  The  music  was 
very  fine,  from  a  large  choir,  consisting,  besides  the  organ,  of  flutes, 
hautboys,  horns,  and  basses  of  all  kinds,  with  about  ten  vocalists, 
two  of  whom  were  eunuchs,  about  seventy  years  of  age.  The 
music  consisted  of  selections  from  the  best  masters.  The  performers 
were  about  seventy  in  number.  The  steps  of  the  church  and  the 
street  were  strewed  on  this  occasion  with  orange  leaves.  A  number 
of  females  present  were  seated  on  the  floor  of  the  church,  dressed  in 
black,  with  white  lace  shawls,  and  wreaths  of  flowers  round  their 
heads.  Fireworks,  as  usual  in  such  ceremonies,  were  set  off  in  front 
of  the  church  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  service. 

The  Misericordia  has  now  become  much  out  of  repair,  and  I 
understood  had  fallen  off  in  its  charitable  usefulness,  but  it  still 
shows  the  remains  of  its  former  splendour.  Few  monks  were  seen 
about,  and  dead  bodies  were  laid  out  in  the  Green  House.  At  the 
time  we  visited  it  there  were  eight,  the  greater  part  of  whom  were 
negroes.  A  monk  was  seen  saying  a  hasty  prayer  over  the  bodies, 
which  were  at  once  thrown  into  the  trench,  when  they  were 
sprinkled  with  lime,  placing  one  layer  over  the  other,  until  the 
hole,  about  six  feet  square  and  as  many  deep,  is  filled  or  level  with 
the  surface.  After  one  of  the  trenches  is  filled,  another  is  dug  by 
the  side  of  it.  The  crowded  state  of  this  place  of  interment  is  but 
too  evident  from  the  number  of  skulls  and  bones  lying  about,  some 
still  with  portions  of  flesh  adhering  to  them. 

On  the  same  evening,  whilst  this  scene  was  still  fresh  in  our 

13 


VOL.  I. 


50 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


minds,  and  as  if  in  strong  contrast  with  it,  we  met  the  funeral  of 
a  person  of  distinction.  A  black  hearse,  ornamented  with  black 
plumes,  was  drawn  by  mules.  The  driver  had  a  cocked  hat  and 
black  plume.  The  coffin  was  covered  with  a  scarlet  pall  ornamented 
with  silver.  About  twenty  altar-boys  in  their  church  dress,  pre¬ 
ceded  the  hearse,  which  was  surrounded  by  about  the  same  number 
of  black  servants,  in  livery,  all  carrying  lighted  wax  candles.  The 
body,  on  arrival  at  the  Imperial  Chapel,  was  removed  into  it,  and  all 
who  entered  the  chapel  were  furnished  with  lighted  tapers.  Mass 
and  the  funeral  service  were  performed  by  the  priest,  and  some 
delightful  music  by  a  full  choir.  The  body  was  then  taken  into 
the  Campo  Santo,  a  kind  of  amphitheatre,  with  high  walls,  a  short 
distance  from  the  church.  About  a  thousand  vaults  are  built  in  the 
wall.  One  of  them  was  opened,  the  body  interred,  and  the  wall 
built  up  again.  The  centre  of  this  sepulchre  is  laid  out  in  a  flower 
garden,  and  is  about  one  hundred  feet  in  diameter. 

December  2d  was  the  birthday  of  the  Emperor,  Don  Pedro  the 
Second,  who  then  was  thirteen  years  old.  It  was  celebrated  with  all 
due  pomp.  Great  preparations  had  been  making  for  many  days.  He 
was  to  pass  into  the  city  from  St.  Christoval,  his  usual  residence,  in 
procession,  and  to  hold  a  levee  at  the  city  palace.  The  streets  were 
strewn  with  orange  and  other  leaves,  a  triumphal  arch  erected,  &c. 
But  a  description  of  his  progress  will  give  a  better  idea  of  it. 

Having  left  St.  Christoval,  he  entered  the  city  about  noon,  preceded 
by  a  large  troop  of  horse.  He  rode  with  his  sisters,  one  sixteen,  the 
other  fourteen  years  of  age,  in  a  splendid  English  carriage,  with 
bronze  and  gold  mountings,  drawn  by  eight  cream-coloured  horses, 
gaily  caparisoned,  with  silver-mounted  harness,  the  servants  in  rich 
liveries.  Three  carriages,  drawn  by  six  horses  each,  followed,  con¬ 
taining  officers  of  state  and  his  household,  the  whole  surrounded  by 
the  Emperor’s  guards,  and  above  five  thousand  military  following. 
Great  crowds  of  people  had  assembled  to  witness  this  parade.  As  the 
carriages  passed  under  the  balconies,  garlands  of  flowers  were  thrown 
upon  them.  They  entered  the  principal  street  through  a  triumphal 
arch  beautifully  decorated  with  natural  flowers,  on  which  were  placed 
two  little  boys,  dressed  in  blue  and  pink,  with  wings  to  represent 
angels,  each  holding  a  basket  of  flowers,  which  they  threw  on  the 
young  monarch  as  he  passed.  The  houses  in  the  streets  through 
which  the  procession  moved,  were  hung  with  satin  damask  draperies 
of  the  richest  tints.  These  I  understand  are  kept  expressly  for  such 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


51 


occasions.  At  short  intervals  national  flags  were  suspended  across 
the  streets.  On  the  custom-house  the  flags  of  every  nation  were  seen, 
in  the  centre  of  which  was  the  Brazilian,  and  next  to  it  the  “  star- 
spangled  banner.”  The  Emperor  moved  on,  receiving  the  same 
marks  of  affection  from  his  subjects  until  he  reached  the  great  square 
and  palace,  where  he  alighted.  The  troops  forming  around  the 
square  soon  came  to  order,  and  a  general  pause  ensued,  until  the 
firing  of  the  feu  de  joie  began,  one  of  the  most  deafening  I  ever 
heard.  He  finished  this  public  exhibition  by  showing  himself  to  the 
multitude  below,  from  the  balconies  of  the  city  palace,  and  was 
received  with  many  vivas. 

He  then  held  his  levee,  which  the  Rev.  Mr.  Walsh  has  so  well 
described,  and  which  closely  resembled  the  one  at  which  he  was 
present,  with  this  difference,  that  this  was  much  more  of  a  farce, 
in  consequence  of  the  boyhood  of  the  Emperor.  Nothing  can  be 
more  ridiculous  than  to  see  all  the  dignitaries,  and  old  men,  the 
mitred  bishop,  the  sage  diplomatist,  and  the  veteran  soldier,  ushered 
into  the  presence,  and  out  again,  without  saying  a  word,  or  turning 
their  backs  on  the  young  monarch.  Mr.  Walsh  has,  however,  said 
nothing  about  the  scene  in  the  anteroom;  to  me  it  was  the  most 
ridiculous  of  all.  The  arranging  the  order  of  entrance  to  the  pre¬ 
sence,  with  due  form  and  etiquette ;  the  examination  by  each  diplo¬ 
matist,  that  he  has  his  due  order  of  precedence;  their  anxiety  to 
gather  their  suites  around  them  not  unlike  a  hen  with  her  chickens, 
and  to  make  the  fullest  show ;  all  this  prepares  one  for  the  ridiculous 
scene  that  is  to  follow.  The  oldest  resident  minister  always  takes  the 
lead.  At  night  the  city  was  illuminated. 

Rio  is  now  well  supplied  with  water.  Aqueducts  have  been 
finished  within  the  last  two  years,  which  bring  it  from  the  Corcovado 
and  Tejuca  Mountains,  a  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles.  There  are  a 
number  of  public  fountains  in  different  parts  of  the  city.  All  the 
water  for  the  supply  of  families  is  transported  by  slaves,  who  are 
constantly  seen  about  these  fountains.  Until  the  amount  of  toil  and 
time  occupied  is  seen,  little  idea  can  be  formed  of  the  saving  of  labour 
that  hydrants  and  pipes,  for  the  supply  of  this  necessary  article, 
effects.  These  fountains  have  numerous  jets,  and  some  have  pretty 
edifices  over  them.  'During  the  day  there  are  seldom  less  than  fifty 
to  one  hundred,  both  male  and  female,  water-carriers  around  them, 
filling  their  jars,  with  which  they  are  seen  moving  about  borne  on 
their  heads.  Near  the  large  fountain  called  Hafariz,  in  the  square  of 


52 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


Santa  Anna,  are  two  large  basins,  about  fifty  feet  long  and  twenty- 
five  wide.  These  are  commonly  filled  with  about  two  hundred  negro 
women,  who  daily  assemble  to  wash.  Numbers  of  them  are  half  naked, 
standing  up  to  their  middle  in  the  water,  beating  and  thrashing  the 
clothes  against  the  stone  wall,  to  the  great  destruction  of  buttons,  &c. 

Few  articles  are  transported  in  any  other  way  than  by  slaves, 
and  it  is  extremely  rare  to  see  a  cart  drawn  by  any  beast  of  burden. 
Antique-looking  carriages  and  two-wheeled  calescas  are  generally 
seen. 

It  is  impossible  to  remain  long  at  Rio  without  noticing  the  geolo¬ 
gical  structure  of  the  country.  It  is  all  granitic,  and  occurs  in  vast 
blocks.  Dr.  Pickering  and  Mr.  Brackenridge,  who  visited  the  Organ 
Mountains,  reported  that  the  country  was  of  the  same  general  cha¬ 
racter,  but  on  a  much  grander  scale. 

The  garden  at  the  bay  side  is  delightfully  situated.  From  this 
point  the  bay  offers  amusement  at  all  hours.  I  should  think  the 
people  of  Rio  might  be  classed  among  the  indolent,  and  that  they 
are  not  fond  of  walking,  for  the  garden  appears  to  be  but  little 
frequented. 

The  museum  is  open  twice  a  week,  and  is  quite  creditable  to  the 
city,  and  well  worth  seeing.  It  appears  to  attract  more  attention 
from  the  inhabitants  of  Rio  than  I  should  have  been  led  to  expect. 
It  is  extremely  rich  in  its  native  collections,  and  well  taken  care  of. 

The  theatres,  of  which  there  are  three,  are  seldom  open  on  week 
days,  but  always  on  Sunday. 

The  sail  up  the  bay  is  beautiful.  The  surrounding  picturesque 
peaks,  varying  their  outline  with  every  change  of  position,  give  it 
great  variety,  and  the  objects  are  so  interesting  that  one  is  never 
tired.  The  many  islets  that  stud  this  bay  add  greatly  to  its  beauty, 
and  excite  interest,  covered  as  they  are  with  tribes  of  tropical  plants, 
all  new  to  the  eye.  Among  these  are  seen  tufts  of  Bromelias  and 
Cactus,  while  Orchidese  plants  were  abundant  on  the  rocks  and  trees. 

This  bay  is  usually  covered  with  small  boats,  passing  to  and  fro, 
felucca  rigged,  without  decks,  and  generally  about  twelve  tons’ 
burden.  These  boats  are  rowed  by  blacks,  who  are  seen  toiling  at 
their  task.  The  oars  are  large,  the  men  row  in  a  standing  posture, 
and  thus  add  the  weight  of  their  bodies  to  their  strength.  At  times, 
the  bay  seems  alive  with  the  number  of  these  vessels,  and  of  small 
canoes,  each  made  of  a  single  trunk,  which  are  occupied  in  fishing. 
Many  of  these  vessels  are  also  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade. 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


53 


Foreigners  are  usually  employed  to  take  charge  of  the  latter,  which 
sail  under  the  Brazilian  flag.  Steamers  are  beginning  to  be  used. 
One  plies  between  Rio  and  Santos,  and  during  our  stay,  another 
left  the  harbour  for  Montevideo.  The  greater  part  of  the  vessels  in 
the  bay  are  under  foreign  flags,  and  I  was  much  surprised  to  observe, 
how  few  comparatively  are  English,  and  how  many  are  from  the 
north  of  Europe. 

The  harbour  of  Rio  may  be  considered  as  not  extending  farther 
than  Enxados  Island,  above  which  few  vessels  lie.  The  front  of  the 
city  is  not  well  adapted  for  wharves,  and  none  exist.  There  are 
some  landing  stairs ;  hut  they  are  not  well  protected  from  the  sea, 
which  at  times  renders  landing  almost  impossible. 

The  environs  of  the  city  were  visited  by  many  of  our  naturalists 
and  officers,  and  although  this  ground  has  been  so  often  gone  over  by 
others,  it  was  yet  found  to  offer  many  objects  of  interest,  and  we 
believe  of  novelty,  particularly  in  the  waters  of  this  bay. 

In  Rio,  the  vegetation  seems  to  fix  the  attention  above  all  other 
things,  especially  of  those  situated  as  we  were  in  the  harbour,  having 
it  continually  before  one’s  eyes,  and  I  can  well  understand  the 
deprivation  Sir  Joseph  Banks  and  Dr.  Solander  must  have  expe¬ 
rienced  in  their  visit.  Our  naturalists  remarked  that  although 
the  productions  are  still  American  in  character,  the  same  families 
prevailing,  often  the  same  genera,  yet  that  they  were  entirely  distinct 
in  species  from,  those  of  other  parts  of  the  continent.  As  an  example, 
the  Furcroea  takes  the  place  of  the  Mexican  Agaves.  The  Furcroea 
is  a  peculiar  plant,  and  attracts  attention  by  its  bayonet-shaped  leaves, 
branching  up  in  every  direction ;  some  of  these  are  ten  or  twelve  feet 
in  height  and  ten  inches  in  diameter.  This  plant,  with  the  well- 
known  Cecropia,  with  its  candelabra  branches,  and  the  prevailing 
yellow  blossoms  of  the  trees,  gives  a  peculiar  and  lively  character  to 
the  landscape  and  woods,  when  compared  with  the  dull  sombre  hue 
of  our  own  forests. 

Here,  as  in  all  tropical  climates,  the  truth  of  the  remark  made  by 
a  botanist  “  that  every  thing  grows  into  shrubs  and  trees,”  is  obvious. 
Herbaceous  plants  are  rare,  and  annuals  may  be  said  to  be  almost 
wanting.  The  fruit  trees  were,  generally  seen  bearing  fruit  and 
flowers  at  the  same  time.  This  took  place,  as  observed  by  one  of 
our  party,  even  in  the  cultivated  apple  on  the  Tejuca  Mountains. 

The  vegetation  near  the  coast  differs  considerably  from  that  of  the 

14 


VOL.  I. 


54 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


inland  country.  Plants  are  more  dense  and  succulent,  species  and 
tribes  have  little  of  a  local  nature ;  yet  particular  kinds  of  palms  and 
bamboos  are  found  in  separate  groups  on  the  top  of  the  Organ 
Mountains,  but  this  is  only  a  slight  exception  to  the  general  rule, 
which  nature  seems  to  have  adopted  in  the  distribution  of  plants 
over  the  country.  This  character  strikes  the  observer  forcibly  in  the 
Cecropias,  Csesalpinia  braziliensis,  and  several  Melastomas,  which  are 
rarely  seen  in  pairs. 

The  Botanic  Garden  is  in  a  flat  situation,  backed  by  a  high  ridge 
of  mountainous  land.  In  front,  is  a  lake  of  brackish  water,  which 
forms  a  considerable  bay,  and  communicates  with  the  sea  by  a 
narrow  inlet.  The  entrance  to  the  garden  has  a  mean  appearance, 
and  does  not  correspond  with  the  broad  promenades  within,  which 
are  planted  with  trees  on  each  side.  The  whole  is  laid  out  in  the 
old  Dutch  style ;  seats,  arbours,  and  houses  are  cut  out  of  Arbor 
vitse  ( Thuja  orientolis).  Terrestrial  Orchidese  are  cultivated  in 
earthen  vases  placed  in  rows  in  the  herbaceous  ground,  which 
appeared  to  have  been  once  planted  after  the  Jussieuean,  or  natural 
system,  but  is  now  somewhat  out  of  order.  In  the  centre  of  the 
garden  was  a  small  fountain,  near  which  grew  some  fine  specimens 
of  the  splendid  Bougainvillea  bracteatea,  in  full  flower.  There  is 
also  a  fine  collection  of  Orchidese,  which  are  cultivated  on  decayed 
trunks  of  trees.  The  bread-fruit  trees  ( Artocarpus  incisa ,  and  in- 
tegrifolia)  succeed  very  well.  There  wTere  some  trees  of  both 
kinds  forty  feet  high,  and  the  fruit  of  the  latter  as  large  as  an  ordi¬ 
nary  watermelon.  The  rows  of  trees  along  the  sides  of  the  walks 
were  principally  Apeiba  hispida,  Theobroma  cacao,  several  kinds 
of  Lauracese  and  Myrtacese,  with  a  species  of  Casuarina,  introduced 
from  New  South  Wales.  Several  groups  of  bamboos  had  a  good 
effect  among  the  other  trees,  but  their  stems  bore  evidence  of  a 
propensity  to  the  carving  of  names,  as  a  memento  of  the  dis¬ 
tinguished  persons’  visit.  Among  them  I  was  glad  to  see  the  names 
of  many  Europeans,  which  serves  to  prove  that  this  habit  does  not 
exist  among  Americans  alone.  Here  an  attempt  was  made  some 
years  since  to  introduce  the  tea-plant,  with  natives  of  China  to 
cultivate  it.  The  plantation  appeared  to  our  botanical  gentlemen  in 
a  sickly  state. 

The  great  and  distinctive  mark  of  Bio,  is  its  slaves  and  slavery. 
It  seems  fairly  branded  with  this  evil,  and  the  thoughts  cannot 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


55 


wander  very  far,  before  they  are  brought  back  to  its  reality,  by  some 
one  of  the  many  sights  that  obtrude  themselves. 

The  slave  population  is  stated  at  live  times  the  number  of  that 
of  the  whites,  and  notwithstanding  the  existing  danger  of  capture, 
the  supply  still  seems  equal  to  the  demand.  Although  many 
captures  are  made  by  the  English  cruisers,  brought  in  and  tried 
by  the  mixed  commission,  agreeably  to  treaty ;  yet  they  still  find 
means  to  pass  them  in.  Two  slavers  were  lying  in  charge  of  the 
English  squadron  while  we  were  there.  On  board  of  them,  though 
quite  small  vessels,  wTere  two  and  three  hundred  negroes.  It  is 
difficult  to  imagine  more  emaciated,  naked,  and  beastly-looking 
creatures,  and  it  is  not  a  little  surprising  that  they  should  be  kept 
thus  confined  by  those  who  affect  to  establish  their  freedom  and 
ameliorate  their  condition.  These  slavers  it  is  understood  had 
obtained  their  slaves  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa. 

Slaves  are  almost  the  only  carriers  of  burdens.  They  go  almost 
naked,  and  are  exceedingly  numerous.  They  appear  to  work  with 
cheerfulness,  and  go  together  in  gangs,  with  a  leader  who  carries  a 
rattle  made  of  tin,  and  filled  with  stones,  (similar  to  a  child’s  rattle). 


COFFEE-CAR  R IER  S. 


With  this  he  keeps  time,  causing  them  all  to  move  on  a  dogtrot. 
Each  one  joins  in  the  monotonous  chorus,  the  notes  seldom  varying 
above  a  third  from  the  key.  The  words  they  use  are  frequently 
relative  to  their  own  country ;  sometimes  to  what  they  heard  from 


56 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


their  master,  as  they  started  with  their  load,  but  the  sound  is  the 
same. 


The  coffee-carriers  go  along  in  large  gangs  of  twenty  or  thirty, 
singing — 

O  o 


V--#-  a  ^ - 

TT  ^  •  tf 

-  •  #  -  i 

x  r*  r  r  r 

** 

r  r 

r  v 

a  v/  i  r  r 

1  | 

r  r 

i 

± 

Another. 


«  a  I  I 

i 

\j  ■n  u 

1  1 

“i  r 

JL  i*  I 

J  l 

.  9  J  1 

^  :  I 

J 

r~  I 

One  half  take  the  air,  with  one  or  two  keeping  up  a  kind  of  a  hum 
on  the  common  chord,  and  the  remainder  finish  the  bar. 

These  slaves  are  required  by  their  masters  to  obtain  a  certain  sum, 
according  to  their  ability,  say  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  cents  a  day, 
and  to  pay  it  every  evening.  The  surplus  belongs  to  themselves. 
In  default  of  not  gaining  the  required  sum,  castigation  is  always 
inflicted.  It  is  said  that  the  liberated  negroes  who  own  slaves  are 
particularly  severe  and  cruel.  The  usual  load  carried  is  about 
two  hundred  pounds  weight. 

Mr.  Hale,  our  philologist,  found  here  a  field  of  some  extent  in 
his  department,  through  the  slave  population,  and  it  afforded  more 
opportunities  for  its  investigation  than  would  at  first  appear  probable. 
Vast  numbers  of  slaves  have  been,  and  are  still  imported  annually 
into  this  market;  and  as  very  many  of  the  same  nation  or  tribe 
associate  together,  they  retain  their  own  language,  even  after  they 
have  been  in  the  country  for  some  years.  It  may  be  seen  by  the 
most  cursory  examination  that  they  are  marked  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  serve  to  distinguish  their  different  races.  Some  have  little  of 
the  distinctive  negro  character,  and  others  more  of  it  than  any 
human  beings  we  had  seen.  Mr.  Hale  obtained  from  a  gentleman 
of  Rio  the  following  information  respecting  them,  with  their  dis¬ 
tinctive  marks;  the  accuracy  of  which  we  had  an  opportunity  of 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


57 


verifying  during  our  stay.  The  likenesses  made  of  them  by  Mr. 
Agate  are  very  characteristic. 

The  negroes  of  Brazil  who  have  been  brought  from  North  and 
South  Africa,  are  divided  into  two  distinct  and  very  dissimilar 
classes.  The  natives  of  that  portion  of  the  continent  known  under 
the  general  name  of  Upper  Guinea,  including  the  countries  in  the 
interior  as  far  as  Timbuctoo  and  Bornou,  being  the  whole  of  that 
region  lately  explored  by  the  English  expeditions.  The  slaves  from 
this  quarter,  though  of  various  nations  and  languages,  have  yet  a 
general  likeness,  which  stamps  them  as  of  one  race.  In  Brazil  they 
are  known  under  the  name  of  Minas. 


MINA. 


The  Minas  slaves  are  said  to  be  distinguished  from  others  by  their 
bodily  and  mental  qualities.  They  are  generally  above  the  middle 
height,  and  are  well  formed.  The  forehead  is  high,  and  the  cheek 
bones  prominent ;  the  nose  sometimes  straight  and  sometimes  de¬ 
pressed  ;  the  lips  not  very  thick ;  teeth  small  and  perpendicularly 
set;  the  hair  is  woolly,  and  the  colour  an  umber  or  reddish  brown, 
approaching  to  black. 

The  look  and  bearing  of  the  Mina  blacks  are  expressive  of  intel¬ 
ligence  and  dignity,  and  they  betray  little  of  the  levity  usually 
ascribed  to  the  negro  race. 

In  Brazil  they  occupy  the  highest  position  that  slaves  are  allowed 
to  attain,  being  employed  as  confidential  servants,  artisans,  and  small 
traders.  They  look  down  and  refuse  to  have  any  connexion  with, 
or  participation  in,  the  employment  of  the  other  negroes.  Many 
of  them  write  and  read  the  Arabic,  and  all  can  repeat  some  sentences 
of  it.  The  greatest  number  of  slaves  who  purchase  their  freedom 
belong  to  this  race. 

There  is  one  singularity  which  seems  to  be  common  to  the  inhabi- 

15 


VOL.  I. 


58 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


tants  of  both  regions,  and  which  may  be  compared  with  the  practice 
of  tattooing  which  prevails  throughout  the  tribes  of  Polynesia,  viz., 
the  custom  of  cutting  or  branding  certain  marks  upon  the  face  and 
body,  by  which  the  individuals  of  one  tribe  may  be  distinguished 
from  those  of  any  other.  This  practice  is  general  among  all  the 
Minas,  and  also  prevails  along  the  eastern  or  Mozambique  coast  of 
Southern  Africa.  Among  the  western  or  Congo  tribes  it  does  not 
appear  to  be  universal.  It  will  be  readily  understood  that  these 
marks  are  of  great  service  to  the  slave-traders,  and  all  that  have  much 
to  do  with  native  Africans  soon  learn  to  distinguish  them,  and  the 
price  of  a  slave  is  depressed  or  enhanced  accordingly.  Among  the 
Mina  nations,  so  called  after  a  port  on  the  Slave  Coast  in  Upper 
Guinea,  where  these  slaves  are  obtained,  this  practice  is  carried 
to  its  greatest  extent.  Each  province  or  city  of  importance  has  a 
distinct  brand  or  mark,  which  is  invariable  for  all  the  inhabitants. 

Of  the  tribes  speaking  the  Houssa  language,  the  Goobere,  or 
Guberi,  from  the  kingdom  of  Bornou,  have  three  or  four  marks  on 
each  side  of  the  mouth,  converging  towards  the  corners. 


Those  from  the  town  of  Kano,  inhabited  by  a  population  of  traders, 
have  several  perpendicular  and  parallel  marks  on  each  cheek. 


mi 


The  same  mark  prevails  among  the  people  of  Kashua  and  Labbi, 
neighbours  of  the  foregoing. 

The  Soccatoos,  or  Sakatus,  on  a  branch  of  the  Quorra,  have  several 
fine  oblique  marks,  converging  towards  the  corners  of  the  mouth. 


Dawwarra  or  Dawara :  these  have  parallel  oblique  lines,  drawn  to 
the  corners  of  the  mouth,  with  shorter  marks  meeting  or  bordering 
them  above  and  below. 


The  men  of  the  Nago  or  Yarribe  nation,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Niger  or  Quorra,  below  the  Houssa,  have  three  or  four  longitudinal 
marks  on  each  side  of  the  mouth. 


111! 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


59 


Those  of  the  women  are  more  complicated. 


The  Tacqua,  otherwise  called  Nonffie  or  Nyffie,  live  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Quorra,  opposite  the  former,  and  have  two  or  three  oblique 
lines  drawn  to  the  corners  of  the  mouth. 


The  Fantees  and  Ashantees  inhabit  that  part  of  the  coast  of 
Guinea,  known  as  the  Slave  Coast,  and  the  country  in  the  interior. 
The  former  have  no  distinguishing  mark ;  the  latter  are  characterized 
by  scars  produced  by  burns  on  the  forehead  and  cheeks. 


The  Calabars,  on  the  Gulf  of  Benin,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Quorra, 
are  marked  with  two  lozenge-shaped  brands  on  the  breast  and 
stomach. 

The  Eboes  live  near  the  preceding,  at  the  separation  of  the 
mouths  of  the  Quorra.  Their  mark  is  an  arrow  on  each 
temple.  The  town  of  Ebo  is  a  great  mart  for  the  surrounding 
country. 


The  Minas  are  held  in  much  fear  in  Brazil.  They  are  extremely 
numerous  at  Bahia,  and  it  is  understood,  during  a  late  insurrection, 
that  they  had  fully  organized  themselves,  and  were  determined  to 
institute  a  regular  system  of  government.  They  had  gone  so  far  as 
to  circulate  writings  in  Arabic,  exhorting  their  fellows  in  bondage  to 
make  the  attempt  to  recover  their  liberty. 

The  nations  to  the  south  of  the  equator,  have  the  usual  form  of 
the  negro,  agreeably  to  our  ideas.  Those  of  the  slaves  at  Rio  de 


60 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


Janeiro,  are,  in  general,  short,  badly  formed,  or  clumsy,  with  narrow 
foreheads,  flat  noses,  protruding  jaws  and  teeth,  and  prominent 
cheek  bones,  with  the  chin  sloping  backwards.  They  are  indolent, 
thoughtless,  and  licentious.  They  may  be  seen  in  the  streets 
at  all  hours,  employed  as  carriers,  earning  the  stipulated  sum  for 
their  masters;  and  when  this  is  gained,  they  are  to  be  found 
stretched  out  on  the  sidewalk,  under  the  porticoes,  or  on  the  steps 
of  churches,  enjoying  themselves  as  mere  animals,  basking  in  the 
sun,  or  sleeping  in  the  shade.  They  are  not  deficient  in  intelligence ; 
the  defect  is  less  in  their  intellectual  powers,  than  in  their  character, 
which  appears  to  want  energy. 

Tattooing,  or  marking,  does  not  prevail  among  the  tribes  of  Lower 
Guinea  to  such  an  extent.  The  Kambindas,  who  border  imme¬ 
diately  upon  the  Minas,  appear  to  have  borrowed  from  them  the 
custom,  but  employ  it  rather  for  the  purpose  of  ornament,  than  as 
a  mode  of  distinguishing  their  origin.  The  marks  or  figures  with 
which  they  brand  themselves  are  various,  and  sometimes  ornamental. 
They  are  called  in  Brazil,  Kambindas,  after  the  town  on  the  river 
Zaire  or  Congo,  at  which  they  are  procured. 

Of  the  Sundi  or  Mayomba,  who  live  immediately  north  of  Loango, 
between  latitude  3°  and  4°  S.,  some  have  a  row  or  band  of  small 
cicatrices,  coming  from  each  shoulder  to  the  centre  of  the  breast,  like 
the  ends  of  a  pelerine ;  others  have  various  arabesque  ornaments. 


Those  who  come  from  Buali,  the  capital  of  the  Loango  district, 
in  about  latitude  4°  30'  S.,  have  marks  like  the  preceding,  on  the 
breast,  and  others  on  the  arms. 


Towards  the  south,  tattooing  is  less  common,  and  among  the  Goy 
or  Angoya  people  (the  Kambindas  proper),  few  but  women  are  so 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


61 


ornamented.  Their  marks  are  characterized  in  the  three  figures 
appended. 


The  Angoyans,  however,  file  their  teeth  after  a  peculiar  fashion, 
each  tooth  being  cut  down  or  filed  in  the  centre,  so  that  only  the  sides 
are  left  standing ;  the  contiguous  sides  of  the  teeth  form  a  single  saw¬ 
like  tooth. 


The  inhabitants  of  the  town  of  Embomma,  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  river  Congo,  are  distinguished  by  the  teeth  being  filed  so  that 
each  tooth  forms  a  point. 

The  Mundjola,  a  savage  tribe,  live  in  the  interior,  beyond  the 
Loango  district,  with  whose  inhabitants  they  are  constantly  engaged 
in  wars,  made  expressly  to  procure  slaves.  They  are  esteemed  the 


least  valuable  of  all  the  blacks  imported  into  Brazil,  being  stupid, 
ferocious,  and  intractable.  In  Africa  they  are  stigmatized  as  man- 
eaters  by  the  other  negroes.  The  Mundjola  have  the  usual  negro 
features,  with  somewhat  of  a  Tartar  expression.  Their  cheeks  are 
furrowed  longitudinally  by  numerous  parallel  lines. 

Of  the  exact  geographical  position  of  the  Mundjola,  no  definite 

16 


VOL.  I. 


62 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


information  was  known.  The  part  of  the  continent  which  they  are 
said  to  inhabit,  is  still  unexplored ;  the  account  which  one  of  them 
gave  Mr.  Hale  was,  that  he  had  been  three  days  with  his  captors  in 
canoes,  from  his  native  place,  M’te,  situated  on  the  great  river  Muote, 
before  reaching  Loango,  where  he  embarked.  It  is  probable  that 
M’te  is  in  the  interior,  two  or  three  hundred  miles  northeast  of 
Loango,  and  that  he  was  brought  to  the  coast  by  the  Zaire  river ; 
but  in  this  wild  unexplored  ground,  all  is  yet  conjecture.  The  next 
town  or  tribe  to  M’te  he  called  Mudimbe. 

The  extensive  territory,  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Coanza, 
in  latitude  9°  20'  S.,  on  the  west  by  the  Atlantic,  on  the  south  by  the 
Great  Desert,  which  interposes  between  it  and  the  country  of  the 
Hottentots,  and  reaching  to  an  indefinite  distance  in  the  interior,  is 
known  under  the  name  of  Benguela,  or  as  the  natives  pronounce  it, 
Bengera.  Over  this  extent  of  country,  comprising  at  least  half  of 
Lower  Guinea,  the  same  general  language  is  supposed  to  prevail, 
though  subdivided  into  several  dialects. 

The  Benguela  blacks  have  a  much  higher  character  as  slaves  than 
the  other  nations  of  Lower  Guinea.  They  are  next  in  estimation  to 
the  Minas,  being  steady,  industrious,  and  intelligent.  They  make 
excellent  husbandmen.  They  are  generally  of  good  height,  with 
features  having  less  of  the  negro  stamp  than  those  of  the  Congo ;  the 
forehead  tolerably  high,  the  nose  not  much  depressed,  and  the  lips 
moderately  full. 


The  extent  of  the  Congo  territory  is  now  comprised  between  the 
Zaire  and  Dande  rivers,  or  about  two  hundred  miles  of  sea  coast. 
These  limits  define  with  sufficient  accuracy  the  extent  within  which 
the  Congo  language  prevails. 

The  Congoes  file  their  teeth  after  the  fashion  of  the  Angoyas. 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


63 


Sometimes,  though  not  often,  they  have  a  few  marks  on  each 
temple. 


The  Angola  and  the  Kasanji  are  considered  in  Rio  as  of  different 
nations,  but  their  languages  are  the  same,  with  hardly  a  dialectical 
difference,  and  is  extremely  soft  in  pronunciation.  Some  of  the  na¬ 
tives  found  great  difficulty  in  enunciating  sounds  of  the  Portuguese, 
saying  balaba  for  barba,  cibali  for  cidade.  Though  the  Angola  and 
Kasanji  spoke  the  same  language,  yet  there  was  a  considerable  dif¬ 
ference  between  the  dialects  of  two  Angolas,  the  one  from  Loando  on 
the  coast,  the  other  from  M’baka,  or  Ambacca,  about  three  hundred 
miles  in  the  interior. 

From  the  best  information,  it  is  believed  that  the  only  distinction 
between  them  is,  that  the  Angolas  are  under  the  domination  of  the 
Portuguese  government,  and  the  Kasanji  are  the  free  natives  of  the 
interior. 


KASANJI. 


The  former  inhabit  a  narrow  province,  from  sixty  to  eighty  miles 
in  width,  between  the  two  rivers  Dande  and  Coanza,  and  extending 
inland  something  more  than  one  hundred  leagues,  or  as  far  as  the 
Portuguese  power  can  make  itself  felt;  the  latter,  commencing  at  this 
point,  are  spread  over  a  large  territory  in  the  interior  of  the  continent. 
One  of  the  natives  stated  the  time  it  took  to  go  from  Loando  (the 
Portuguese  seaport)  to  Kasanji  to  be  three  months,  and  to  return, 
two;  the  former  journey,  as  far  as  it  was  made  in  boats,  being  against 
the  stream. 

The  eastern  coast  of  Africa,  from  the  equator  to  the  Hottentots  of 


64 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


the  Cape,  is  occupied  by  two  nations  or  races  of  people,  which,  though 
bearing  marks  of  a  common  origin,  are  yet  perfectly  distinct.  Each 
of  them  is  subdivided  into  several  minor  tribes  or  clans.  The  first 
of  these  may  be  called  the  Mozambique  or  Makua,  and  the  second 
the  Caffre  race. 

The  Mozambique  or  Makua  tribe,  are  the  people  who  possess  all 
the  country  inland  of  the  Portuguese  and  Arab  settlements,  Melinda, 
Quilao,  Mozambique,  Quilimane,  and  Sofala.  They  occupy  the 
country  which  was  formerly  comprised  in  the  empire  of  Motapa,  but 
is  now  divided  between  the  Portuguese  and  several  native  provinces. 
The  southern  boundary  of  this  people  appears  to  be  the  river  Inham- 
bane,  which  empties  into  the  Indian  Ocean,  near  Cape  Corientes, 
under  the  southern  tropic.  The  negroes  who  inhabit  the  country 
near  the  Portuguese  settlement  of  Mozambique,  are  the  Mozambique 
or  Makuans :  they  differ  little  in  their  character  or  bodily  conforma¬ 
tion  from  the  Congo  tribes  on  the  opposite  coast.  They  have  the 
negro  physiognomy  and  qualities  in  their  full  extent,  and  perhaps  are, 
if  any  thing,  rather  lower  in  the  grade  of  intellect  than  their  brethren 
of  the  west. 


MAKUAN. 


The  custom  of  marking  prevails  among  all  the  tribes  of  the  eastern 
coast.  The  Mozambique  people  are  distinguished  by  a  scar  like  a 
horseshoe  in  the  centre  of  the  forehead,  with  others  somewhat  dif¬ 
ferent  on  each  side.  They  have  other  marks  of  a  similar  nature  on 
the  chin,  and  a  large  brand  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  S  covers  the 
breast ;  their  teeth  are  filed  sharp,  each  tooth  making  a  separate  point. 

The  Takwani  dwell  on  the  great  river  Zambezi,  at  whose  mouth 
Quilimane  is  situated.  This  was  formerly  the  line  of  division  between 
the  northern  or  barbarous  Makuans  and  the  territories  of  the  Motapa. 
Although  this  empire  is  extinct,  the  countries  south  of  the  river  still 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


65 


preserve  some  political  connexion.  All  this  region  was  formerly 
termed  Mocacongna  by  the  Portuguese.  The  Takwani,  by  way 
of  marks,  have  several  groups  of  dots  or  scars  imprinted  in  various 
parts  of  the  forehead,  and  also  on  the  breast. 


o"  J'J/ 


Takwani  is  situated  four  days’  journey  up  the  river  Zambezi. 

The  natives  of  Mesena  have  also  the  same  marks;  they  inhabit 
the  country  round  the  Portuguese  fort  Sena,  on  the  Zambezi,  and 
were  formerly  part  of  the  great  kingdom  of  Motapa. 


TAKWANI.  CAFF11E  PROPER. 


The  Caffres  who  are  found  as  slaves,  are  generally  slender  and 
well  made,  with  faces  partaking  slightly  of  the  Moorish  cast.  Their 
colour  is  a  yellowish  brown,  between  that  of  a  mulatto  and  true 
negro.  The  nose  is  not  depressed,  the  lips  are  rather  thick,  the  eyes 
large,  black  and  bright,  and  the  hair  woolly.  Two  divisions  of  the 
Caffres  have  been  described  by  the  various  authors  who  have  written 
of  them  and  their  dialects.  These  tribes  they  have  divided  into  the 
Caffres  proper,  to  the  east  of  the  Colony  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
extending  from  the  Great  Fish  River  as  far  east  as  Delagoa  Bay,  in 
latitude  26°  S. ;  and  the  Bechuanas,  to  the  north,  inhabiting  the 
interior  as  far  as  the  tropics,  and  the  country  of  the  Wanketsi. 

The  country  between  Delagoa  Bay  and  Sofala,  Mr.  Hale,  from  his 
investigation,  believes  to  be  inhabited  by  another  race  of  Caffres, 
which  he  designates  by  the  name  of  Nyambana.  He  remarks  that 
their  language  and  physical  traits  belong  to  the  same  family  with  the 
Caffres  proper  and  the  Bechuanas.  Their  physiognomy  is  the  same 

17 


VOL.  I. 


66 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


as  that  described  as  distinctive  of  the  CafFres,  and  their  language 
proved  to  be  a  sister  dialect. 

The  natives  whom  he  met  with,  and  from  whom  this  information 
was  derived,  came  from  the  town  of  Okankomatta,  on  the  coast, 
between  the  Nyambara  and  Nyango  rivers,  in  about  latitude  24°  S., 
and  from  Kamouanawankushion,  the  river  of  Nyampara,  in  the  inte¬ 
rior.  The  distinctive  personal  mark  of  this  tribe  is  the  most  extra¬ 
ordinary  of  any.  It  consists  of  a  row  of  artificial  pimples  or  warts, 
about  the  size  of  a  pea,  beginning  in  the  middle  of  the  upper  part  of 
the  forehead,  and  descending  to  the  tip  of  the  nose.  Of  these  they 
are  very  proud.  The  manner  in  which  these  singular  elevations 
were  produced  we  were  not  able  to  learn.  The  natives  appeared  to 
be  averse  to  speaking  of  it. 


MUD  JAN  A 


The  Mudjana  or  Mutchana  are  one  of  a  number  of  savage  tribes 
who  inhabit  the  country  inland  of  Makua  and  Mocacougua,  with 
whom  they  carry  on  a  continual  war,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring 
slaves.  The  best  known  of  these  are  the  Mudjana,  the  Mananji,  the 
Maravi  and  the  Makonde.  The  Mudjana  dwell  about  three  hundred 
miles  from  the  coast,  and  are  among  the  ugliest  of  the  African  tribes. 
They  are  short  and  ill-formed,  with  the  usual  negro  features  in  their 
most  exaggerated  forms.  They  have  on  the  face  and  body  cicatrices 
in  the  shape  of  a  double  cross  or  star,  disposed  without  regularity. 
The  incisions  are  made  when  they  are  children,  and  some  kind  of 
wood  is  rubbed  upon  them  to  give  them  a  dark  colour. 

The  Mokonde,  similarly  located,  have  marks  similar  to  those  of  the 
Mudjana.  Their  teeth  are  filed  down  in  the  centre,  the  sides  of  each 
tooth  being  left  like  those  of  the  Angoyas. 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


67 


All  these  blacks  are  from  different  parts  of  the  coast,  and  having 
been  hostile  tribes,  retain  much  of  their  antipathy  to  each  other.  In 
general  they  are  kindly  treated,  and  become  firmly  attached  to  their 
masters ;  more,  however,  from  a  clanish  feeling  than  from  gratitude, 
of  which  virtue  they  seem  to  possess  little.  They  are  baptized  by 
their  owners  as  soon  as  purchased,  and  in  the  cities  attend  mass  regu¬ 
larly,  and  go  to  confession,  but  they  are  never  thought  to  become 
entirely  civilized.  Those  who  receive  their  freedom  in  reward  for 
faithful  services,  or  purchase  it,  conduct  themselves  well ;  their 
descendants  are  much  superior  in  point  of  intelligence.  Many  of 
them  own  slaves,  and  prove  much  more  severe  masters  than  the 
whites.  Male  slaves  are  put  to  any  trade  or  craft  they  may  desire. 
Females  are  for  the  most  part  employed  as  mantua-makers,  and 
almost  all  the  finery  worn  by  the  higher  circles  at  public  fetes  is 
made  by  slaves.  Indeed,  many  masters  and  mistresses  are  dependent 
on  the  labour  of  their  slaves  for  their  daily  support.  There  are  some 
blacks  who  are  priests,  and  others  officers  in  the  army ;  indeed,  some 
of  the  deputies  would  not  pass  for  white  men  elsewhere. 

Another  remarkable  circumstance  that  strikes  the  visiter  is  the 
absence  of  beggars.  Many  disgusting  objects  may  be  seen  among 
the  slave  population,  but  I  do  not  recollect  having  met  with  a  beggar. 
I  have  understood  that  they  are  not  suffered  to  appear  in  the  streets. 
This  is  the  law  in  almost  all  cities,  but  here  it  is  observed.  Chari¬ 
table  institutions  are  extensively  endowed,  particularly  that  of  the 
Misericordia. 

The  streets  of  the  city  generally  cross  each  other  at  right  angles. 
Some  few  of  them  have  sidewalks,  but  they  are  narrow  and  badly 
paved.  The  gutters  are  in  the  middle  of  the  streets,  with  a  stream 
of  water  which  emits  a  smell  by  no  means  agreeable.  Those  most 
frequented  are  the  Rua  Direita  and  Ouvidor.  The  former,  containing 
the  palace  and  cathedral,  is  the  broadest  in  the  city.  In  the  latter 
are  the  principal  shops,  and  it  is  the  gayest.  The  streets  are  paved 
with  blocks  of  stone.  The  houses  are  for  most  part  two  stories  in 
height,  and  notwithstanding  the  materials  are  strong,  yet  the  red 
tiled  roofs  overhang  in  places  fearfully.  The  interior  of  the  houses 
will  not  bear  inspection.  Ceilings,  walls,  and  floors,  are  all  exceed¬ 
ingly  rough.  In  those  of  the  better  kind,  the  walls  and  ceilings  are 
plastered,  and  have  ornamented  designs  painted  in  fresco.  Silk 
hangings  are  much  in  vogue.  I  was  much  struck  with  the  want  of 
light  and  ventilation  in  the  rooms  and  houses.  The  city  in  some 


\ 


68 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


parts  has  a  triste  appearance,  but  in  others  there  are  few  places 
which  show  so  much  stir  and  bustle,  particularly  when  it  is 
considered  that  wheeled  vehicles  are  not  used  for  transportation. 
What  gives  Rio  its  principal  charm  is  its  suburbs  and  the  small 
quintas  around  it.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  those  around 
Gloria  and  Botofogo.  These  situations  are  generally  occupied  by 
foreigners  who  are  established  here  in  business. 


The  amusements  of  riding  and  fishing,  with  water  excursions,  are 
frequent,  and  of  the  most  agreeable  kind.  It  appears  to  be  a  climate 
and  place  that  one  would  soon  become  attached  to.  There  is  much 
agreeable  foreign  society,  composed  of  the  diplomatic  corps,  many 
retired  gentlemen,  and  generally  the  officers  of  the  several  men-of-war 
of  different  nations.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  some  old  friends, 
and  the  time  I  could  spare  was  very  agreeably  spent  in  their  society. 

There  appears  to  be  but  little  intercourse  between  the  Brazilians 
and  the  foreign  society.  The  female  sex  particularly  is  still  much 
restricted  in  this  respect,  and  although  great  improvement  has  taken 
place,  yet  they  seldom  mix  in  social  intercourse  with  foreigners ;  I 
am  told  that  even  among  themselves  they  are  never  seen  except  at 
ceremonious  parties.  They  are  very  much  as  one  would  expect 
them  to  be,  reserved,  retiring,  and  wanting  in  education.  They 


EIO  JANEIRO. 


69 


dress  after  the  French  fashion,  and  are  usually  covered  with  finery, 
often  displaying  splendid  jewels,  without  taste.  There  is  none  of 
that  ease  and  gaiety  which  exists  where  the  fair  sex  is  considered  on 
an  equality  with  the  other,  and  there  is  a  total  absence  of  that  tone 
which  a  consciousness  of  their  value  gives  to  society.  Though  there 
is  a  great  advancement  in  their  education,  yet  there  is  still  much 
room  for  improvement.  Formerly  they  were  not  allowed  to  be 
educated  at  all.  Their  usual  place  of  resort  during  the  afternoon 
and  evening  is  the  balconies  of  their  houses:  some  of  them  are 
occasionally  seen  at  church.  It  is  said  they  soon  lose  their  beauty, 
an  early  age  being  considered  as  their  prime. 

It  gives  me  pleasure  to  bear  testimony  that  I  witnessed  an  excep¬ 
tion  to  the  above  general  rule. 

Among  the  many  places  to  which  we  had  the  honour  of  an 
invitation,  was  the  White-Jacket  Ball,  at  Praya  Grande,  so  called 
in  consequence  of  a  request  being  made  on  the  card  of  invitation, 
that  the  gentlemen  would  come  in  white  jackets,  and  the  ladies 
appear  without  brilliants  or  other  jewels.  We  gladly  accepted  the 
invitation. 

The  row  across  the  bay  was  beautiful;  the  water  undisturbed  by 
any  breeze;  the  air  cool  and  balmy;  while  thousands  of  lights  along 
the  shores,  and  the  phosphorescence  of  the  water,  gave  additional 
interest  and  brilliancy  to  the  whole.  The  distance,  though  great,  was 
not  too  much  for  so  beautiful  an  evening. 

After  being  once  or  twice  deceived,  we  at  last  found  the  landing, 
and  walked  a  short  distance  from  the  beach.  On  reaching  the 
anteroom,  we  were  met  by  the  committee  of  gentlemen  or  managers, 
and  kindly  greeted  without  ceremony,  making  us  at  once  feel  at  our 
ease.  We  were  shortly  after  ushered  into  one  of  the  most  splendid 
ball-rooms  I  ever  saw ;  it  would  contain  over  one  thousand  persons. 
There  were  upwards  of  three  hundred  present,  all  dressed  in  pure 
white,  without  any  finery  whatever.  The  room  was  brilliantly 
lighted.  We  were  shown  around  and  introduced  to  a  great  many 
persons  of  both  sexes,  who  all  seemed  bent  on  amusement.  It  was 
truly  a  sans  souci  meeting.  Seldom  have  I  seen  so  much  good  taste 
as  was  displayed  in  the  arrangements,  or  so  good  a  tone  of  society. 
A  good  band  of  music,  all  Brazilians,  played  waltzes  and  marches 
alternately.  I  was  told  there  were  many  distinguished  persons, 
senators,  representatives  of  the  congress,  &c.,  present. 

These  balls  take  place  monthly,  and  are  really  what  they  profess 

18 


VOL.  I. 


70 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


to  be,  for  the  pleasure  of  meeting,  innocent  amusement,  and  recrea¬ 
tion.  All  the  expense  that  attends  them  is  the  music  and  lights; 
some  few  dulces  were  the  only  refreshments. 

The  language  generally  spoken  was  Portuguese,  though  some  few 
of  the  ladies,  and  many  of  the  gentlemen,  spoke  French.  I  was  not 
much  struck  with  the  beauty  of  the  ladies,  though  many  were  quite 
pretty.  The  great  charm  thrown  over  the  whole  was  the  unaffected 
manners  and  naivete,  exhibited  by  the  whole  company.  I  left  the 
ball  at  a  late  hour,  exceedingly  gratified  with  my  visit,  and  the 
politeness  and  kindness  that  had  been  shown  us. 

On  the  27th  of  November  the  Relief  arrived,  after  a  passage  of 
one  hundred  days  from  the  United  States,  the  longest  ever  made. 
On  requisitions  being  made  for  her  stores,  I  was  greatly  and 
vexatiously  disappointed  to  receive  a  report  that  they  required  a 
survey,  as  all  were  considered  defective,  including  even  the  bread 
and  flour.  This  report,  after  a  careful  survey  by  seven  officers, 
proved  to  be  true.  I  had  been  informed  before  taking  command  of  the 
squadron  that  these  provisions  had  been  inspected,  and  understood 
them  to  be  in  good  order,  and  that  they  would  last  over  a  year. 

Although  this  did  not  delay  us,  for  the  repairs  in  progress  could 
not  have  been  completed  before  we  would  be  able  to  replace  them, 
yet  coming  as  it  did  with  other  vexations  and  delays,  it  was  rather 
trying  to  the  patience,  and  made  it  necessary  to  redouble  our 
exertions. 

The  Relief  was  despatched  at  the  earliest  day  possible,  the  14th 
of  December,  in  order  to  enable  her  to  reach  Orange  Harbour,  in 
Terra  del  Fuego,  the  place  I  had  fixed  upon  as  a  rendezvous, 
supposing  she  would  take  at  least  fifteen  days  more  than  the  other 
vessels  to  reach  the  place  at  the  same  time.  The  boats  towed  her 
down  the  harbour  and  gave  her  a  fair  start. 

Two  of  the  officers  of  the  squadron  ascended  the  Sugar  Loaf. 
Hearing  the  expression  of  my  surprise  that  they  should  have  per¬ 
formed  such  an  undertaking  without  instruments,  they  immediately 
volunteered  to  make  it  again.  Lieutenants  Underwood  and  Dale 
were  furnished  with  the  requisite  instruments,  and  the  height  was 
obtained  by  the  sympiesometer,  which  agreed  within  a  few  feet 
of  that  obtained  by  triangulation.  The  results  will  be  found  in  the 
table. 

Not  having  time  to  complete  all  they  desired,  some  of  the  party 
remained  over  night  to  complete  the  interesting  observations. 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


71 


Lieutenants  Emmons  and  Underwood,  on  their  first  trip,  obtained 
many  interesting  botanical  specimens,  among  them  Bromelias,  Til- 
landsias,  &c. 

On  the  16th,  the  Peacock,  with  the  two  tenders,  sailed  for  the 
purpose  of  measuring  the  distance  between  Cape  Frio  and  Enxados 
observatory.  I  had  first  determined  to  measure  the  distance  by 
rocket-signals,  as  the  distance,  lying  nearly  east  and  west,  rendered 
this  method  very  applicable ;  but  the  duties  I  was  engaged  in,  and 
the  difficulties  I  might  encounter  from  delays,  prevented  me  from 
having  recourse  to  it.  I  therefore  adopted  that  by  sound,  wishing 
also  to  satisfy  myself  with  what  accuracy  a  length  of  this  distance 
could  be  measured  in  this  manner. 

Captain  Hudson  was  also  ordered  to  examine  the  St.  Thomas 
Shoal,  to  the  northward  of  the  Cape. 

The  manner  of  accomplishing  the  former  duty  was  as  follows. 
The  three  vessels  were  anchored  in  a  triangle,  with  the  light¬ 
house  in  sight,  two  vessels  being  in  range  with  it,  nearly  east  and 
west,  towards  the  harbour  of  Rio.  Each  vessel  firing  four  guns,  the 
times  of  the  flashes  and  reports  of  which  were  noted  in  the  others. 
The  angles  were  simultaneously  observed  between  the  objects,  and 
the  astronomical  bearings  taken.  This  gave  the  data  to  connect  the 
survey  with  the  light-house. 

The  vessels  now  changed  their  positions  alternately,  anchoring  in 
range,  and  on  astronomical  bearings  proceeding  westward,  until  they 
reached  the  island  of  Enxados,  where  they  again  formed  a  triangle 
in  connexion  with  the  observatory. 

Our  repairs  in  Rio  were  extensive,  particularly  those  on  the 
Peacock.  Among  other  things,  the  head  of  the  mizzen-mast  had  to 
be  cut  off  eighteen  inches,  in  consequence  of  a  defect  in  it,  which  it 
appeared  had  been  filled  up  with  rope-yarns  and  putty,  and  painted 
over,  at  her  outfit.  The  defects  about  the  vessel  were  so  glaring  that 
in  going  to  the  high  latitudes,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  have 
secured  the  crew  from  great  suffering  and  exposure.  Even  in  the 
state  in  which  the  squadron  was  now  put,  I  had  every  apprehension 
of  the  greatest  disasters.  'The  Peacock,  particularly,  was  wholly 
unseaworthy  for  such  a  cruise. 

My  object  in  giving  these  details  is  not  to  impute  blame  to  any 
one,  however  satisfied  I  may  be  of  the  great  neglect  in  all  the 
outfits,  but  to  let  the  country  know  what  were  the  difficulties  we 
had  to  encounter. 


72 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


It  is  always  difficult  to  calculate  upon  the  delays  that  may  occur 
in  a  foreign  port,  particularly  when  it  is  necessary  to  employ  foreign 
workmen.  Their  hours,  habits,  and  manner  of  working,  are  so 
different  from  our  own,  that  great  patience  is  required  in  those  who 
employ  them.  The  manner  in  which  the  calkers  of  Rio  work,  would 
draw  crowds  around  them  in  one  of  our  own  cities ;  to  see  many  of 
them  engaged  on  a  single  seam  on  the  outside  of  the  vessel,  striking 
the  mallet  at  a  signal  given  by  their  leader  or  overseer  with  his 
whistle,  is  amusing.  They  are  generally  blacks,  (probably  slaves,) 
and  the  leader  a  white  man.  The  impression  made  upon  us  all  wras, 
that  they  were  an  idle  set,  yet  they  are  said  to  understand  their 
business  well.  I  cannot,  however,  bear  testimony  to  their  work 
myself ;  the  calking  of  my  ship  was  certainly  badly  done. 

The  uncertainty  of  the  length  of  time  I  should  be  detained, 
rendered  it  impossible  for  me  to  allow  long  absences  from  the  ship. 
I  was  anxious  to  have  made  some  measurements  of  the  Organ 
Mountains,  and  that  our  parties  should  extend  their  researches 
beyond  them  to  the  Campos. 

Dr.  Pickering  and  Mr.  Brackenridge  succeeded  in  making  the 
trip  to  the  Organ  Mountains  on  a  botanical  excursion ;  but  the  outfits 
and  duties  connected  with  the  vessels  and  observations,  made  it 
impossible  for  me  to  spare  any  officers  to  make  the  measurement  of 
their  height,  or  to  go  myself.  These  gentlemen  set  out,  having 
taken  passage  in  the  usual  freight-boat,  (felucca  rigged,)  for  Estrella, 
embarking-  their  horses  and  mules  in  another.  These  boats  are  not 
decked,  and  are  of  sufficient  tonnage  to  make  them  safe  and  conve¬ 
nient  freight-boats.  They  generally  have  four  or  five  slaves  with  a 
padron  to  manage  them. 

On  leaving  Rio  they  steered  up  the  bay  for  the  island  of  Gober- 
nador,  round  which  it  is  necessary  to  pass,  on  their  way  towards  the 
river  Anhumirim,  aided  by  a  fair  breeze  and  fine  weather.  They 
found  the  sail  up  the  bay  extremely  beautiful,  the  islands  offering  a 
constant  source  of  interest  and  novelty.  The  mouth  of  the  Anhu¬ 
mirim  river  was  reached  in  about  three  hours.  It  was  found  about 
forty  yards  wide  and  quite  shallow.  The  banks  are  an  extensive 
mangrove  swamp.  They  passed  up  the  river  about  eight  miles, 
and  reached  the  port  of  Estrella  at  midday,  where  they  took  their 
horses  and  pursued  the  main  road  to  the  mines,  which  crosses  to  the 
westward  of  the  highest  peak.  The  distance  to  the  base  of  the 
mountain  from  Estrella,  is  about  ten  miles,  due  north.  The  country 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


73 


is  flat,  with  occasional  undulations.  About  two  miles  from  Estrella 
they  came  to  a  guard-house,  where  they  were  stopped.  Their  guide 
not  being  at  hand,  and  not  understanding  the  language  themselves,  they 
supposed  their  passports  were  demanded,  and  believing  the  reports  to 
be  true  that  we  had  all  heard  so  often  of  the  jealousy  of  the  Brazilians 
in  relation  to  the  admission  of  foreigners  into  the  interior,  they  con¬ 
cluded  they  were  now  to  experience  it.  But  on  the  guide  coming 
up,  the  matter  was  soon  arranged  by  the  payment  of  a  small  tax, 
which  was  the  only  passport  they  found  necessary.  The  ascent  of 
the  pass  is  made  by  a  well-paved  zigzag  road.  They  soon  reached 
the  house  of  Padre  Luiz,  where  they  were  kindly  and  hospitably 
received,  and  supper  was  supplied  them  from  his  scanty  larder. 

Padre  Luiz’s  house  was  quite  spacious  :  a  long  one-story  building, 
containing  under  the  same  roof  the  stable  and  storehouse,  as  well  as 
accommodations  for  travellers  and  the  females  of  the  family.  The 
latter,  agreeably  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  were  not  seen,  though 
known  to  exist.  Cold  and  wet,  our  travellers  were  ushered  into  an 
apartment  where  there  was  neither  floor  nor  fire,  and  in  which  there 
was  a  free  circulation  of  air  through  the  cracks  and  crevices  in  the 
walls.  The  roof,  however,  was  tight,  which  was  essential,  as  it  was 
raining  hard.  A  little  further  insight  and  experience  into  the  cus¬ 
toms  and  comforts  of  the  country  made  them  think  that  the  accom¬ 
modations  had  been  excellent.  After  a  most  unreasonable  delay, 
coffee,  a  fowl,  and  rice  were  set  before  them,  with  much  parade  and 
ceremony.  During  the  night  they  heard,  what  was  supposed  to  be 
the  howling  monkey,  but  upon  inquiry  it  turned  out  to  be  a  Brazilian 
toad,  called  in  Brazil  “the  blacksmith,”  whose  croak  is  said  to 
resemble  very  much  the  sound  of  hammering  on  an  anvil. 

The  next  morning,  understanding  that  they  had  been  treated  with 
luxuries  and  as  persons  of  distinction,  they  told  their  host  that  they 
preferred  the  dish  of  the  country  “  carne  seca”  and  “  far  inha,”  which, 
with  the  addition  of  a  few  eggs  and  a  cup  of  coffee,  made  an  excellent 
meal,  and  was  quickly  served. 

They  rode  this  day  about  twenty  miles  beyond  the  Organ  Moun¬ 
tains,  the  extent  to  which  their  jaunt  reached.  On  their  way  they 
met  vast  numbers  of  mules  heavily  laden.  The  roads  were  generally 
good,  and  a  very  little  expense  would  have  made  them  excellent  for 
carriages. 

At  Padre  Coneas’,  at  the  top  of  the  pass,  they  found  a  native  fig- 
tree,  of  enormous  size,  with  numerous  parasitical  plants  upon  it.  It 

19 


VOL.  I. 


74 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


was  to  them  quite  a  novelty  from  its  low  branches,  which  extended 
horizontally  and  covered  a  space  of  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  in 
diameter. 

After  leaving  the  Estrella  Pass  the  descent  was  very  gradual,  the 
route  lying  among  the  mountains.  Crossing  the  river  Paibanha, 
they  reached  a  hamlet  beautifully  situated  on  the  brow  of  a  hill,  and 
commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  country.  Here  they  found  the 
place  well  suited  to  their  employment  of  making  collections  of  plants, 
and  resolved  to  stop.  Their  host  kept  a  small  store,  and  had  a 
German  for  salesman,  who  was  greatly  delighted  at  finding  Mr. 
Brackenridge  could  speak  his  language.  He  paid  them  great  atten¬ 
tion,  and  provided  amply  for  their  wants. 

They  were  gratified  by  the  rich  botanical  field  that  was  open  to 
them.  Among  the  plants,  or  trees,  were  Cupheas,  with  deep  purple 
flowers,  and  others  with  lilac ;  Lobelias  fifteen  feet  high,  with  spikes 
of  blue  flowers  three  feet  long ;  and  Acacias  in  full  flower.  Cyrtopo- 
dium  Andersonii  grew  on  the  rocks  in  bunches,  &c.  Several  trees 
of  the  Araucaria  Braziliensis,  from  seventy  to  eighty  feet  high,  were 
found  in  the  valley,  which  Mr.  Brackenridge  succeeded  in  climbing, 
and  obtained  two  handsome  cones.  The  rivers  were  also  searched 
for  shells,  but  the  water  was  too  high  to  give  any  success. 

Returning  at  dark  they  found  the  German  had  provided  supper, 
which  was  soon  served.  It  consisted  of  bean  soup,  Indian  bread, 
fried  jerked  beef,  and  sausages,  which  they  had  the  satisfaction  of 
eating  on  their  knees,  for  there  was  no  table,  and  but  one  spoon  and 
only  one  knife  for  three  persons. 

Having  loaded  themselves  with  specimens,  they  concluded  to 
return,  their  ideas  of  life  in  tropical  climates  having  undergone 
much  change  in  this  short  time,  from  the  erroneous  belief  they  had 
entertained  that  industry  was  not  necessary,  that  the  inhabitants 
were  surrounded  by  luxuries,  having  every  delicacy  imaginable,  and 
that  the  only  reason  they  were  not  advanced  in  agriculture  and  the 
arts  was  from  the  idleness  engendered  by  the  enervating  influence  of 
the  climate.  The  fatigue  and  endurance  necessary  to  overcome  the 
actual  state  of  things,  was  least  of  all  expected,  and  such  a  thing  as 
suffering  from  cold,  even  on  elevated  spots,  was  never  dreamt  of. 

The  common  food  of  the  country  was  found  to  be  ground  manioc 
and  jerked  beef,  which  proved  palatable  after  their  fatigues.  Their 
guide,  however,  who  was  a  New  Hampshire  man,  complained  much 
of  his  privations. 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


75 


They  had  seen  the  Mato  Virgen,  or  primeval  forest,  and  instead  of 
finding  it,  as  had  been  represented,  beset  with  difficulties  in  pene¬ 
trating  it,  they  were  surprised  to  find  it  more  accessible  than  some 
of  the  forests  in  our  Atlantic  States.  According  to  the  accounts  of 
intelligent  residents,  it  is  easily  traversed  in  any  direction.  The 
accounts  of  difficulties  have  probably  arisen  from  the  second  growth 
on  spots  that  have  once  been  cleared,  where  the  bamboos  are  inter¬ 
twined  so  as  to  render  the  woods  almost  impassable,  and  this  has  no 
doubt  been  taken  for  the  primeval  forest. 

The  nature  of  the  Brazilian  forest  will  account  for  so  little  being 
known  of  its  botany.  The  trees  are  in  fact  inaccessible,  the  trunks 
being  from  seventy  to  one  hundred  feet  high,  before  the  branches 
appear,  so  that  the  latter  can  only  be  got  at  by  felling.  The  view  of 
the  forest  is  truly  remarkable.  Trees  of  immense  growth  inter¬ 
mingled  with  others  of  less  size,  presenting  to  the  eye  the  most 
singular  and  fantastic  forms  imaginable.  The  roots  of  climbing 
plants  dangling  between  their  straight  trunks  resembled  the  tackling 
of  a  ship. 

A  little  incident  that  occurred  to  these  gentlemen  will  show  the 
difficulties  to  be  encountered  in  obtaining  specimens.  They  had 
observed  for  a  few  days  a  beautiful  yellow  flowering  tree  that  was 
very  conspicuous  in  the  forest.  Believing  that  it  could  be  easily  come 
at,  they  made  the  attempt  to  reach  it,  but  without  success,  finding  it, 
instead  of  being  low,  a  high  and  inaccessible  tree.  They  then  directed 
their  steps  to  others,  but  were  disappointed  again.  Determined  not 
to  be  foiled  in  their  pursuit,  they  again  went  off  in  search  of  others  in 
sight;  these,  to  their  surprise,  were  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  river. 
Nothing  daunted,  Mr.  Brackenridge  crossed  it,  though  deep,  and 
endeavoured  to  scale  the  tree.  What  had  appeared  near  the  ground 
now  proved  a  tree  of  some  sixty  feet  in  height,  with  a  smooth  and 
slippery  bark,  and  he  returned  to  his  companion  empty-handed.  Dr. 
Pickering  next  made  the  attempt.  After  crossing  the  stream  with 
difficulty,  he  reached  the  desired  object,  and  endeavoured  to  climb, 
but  after  reaching  some  forty  feet,  was  obliged  to  acknowledge  him¬ 
self  vanquished.  They  continued  their  return,  and  when  near  Padre 
Luiz’s  house  they  found  a  small  tree  of  the  same  kind  they  had 
been  searching  for,  which  proved  to  be  a  species  of  Csesalpinia. 

At  Padre  Luiz’s  they  again  passed  the  night,  and  the  next  day 
endeavours  were  made  to  reach  one  of  the  pointed  peaks  of  the  Organ 
Mountains.  In  this  Dr.  Pickering  succeeded,  though  it  did  not  prove 


76 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


the  highest.  On  their  way  they  found  many  interesting  plants ;  among 
them  the  Epiphytic  Orchidese,  slender  Cecropias,  rising  to  the  height 
of  one  hundred  feet  without  a  limb,  arborescent  fern  trees  forty  feet 
in  height,  and  numerous  parasitical  plants  hanging  from  the  various 
trees  in  great  profusion ;  Bromelias,  Bigonias,  &c.  On  reaching  the 
top  he  found  trees  stunted  and  gnarled  of  about  thirty  feet  in  height. 

A  good  idea  will  be  given  of  the  richness  of  the  Brazilian  Flora  by 
the  fact,  that  when  mounted  in  the  tree  top,  he  collected  specimens  of 
three  flowering  trees  not  before  seen,  and  three  species  of  mistletoes. 

The  same  afternoon  they  reached  Estrella,  but  found  their  guide 
had  not  procured  any  passage  for  them.  They,  however,  succeeded 
after  some  difficulty  in  procuring  one,  set  out  before  sunset,  and 
reached  Rio  the  next  morning  by  three  o’clock,  having  been  greatly 
tormented  by  the  musquitoes,  and  a  minute  fly,  which  was  even  more 
troublesome. 

Finding  that  the  repairs  had  not  proceeded  so  rapidly  as  I  antici¬ 
pated,  I  readily  gave  permission  for  a  second  jaunt,  which  they 
undertook  in  the  direction  of  Piedade.  Piedade  is  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  bay,  nearly  opposite  to  Estrella.  On  landing,  they 
proceeded  to  Trexal,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  sixteen  miles  from 
Piedade,  where  travellers  may  get  good  lodgings,  &c.,  for  Brazil. 
The  next  day  they  took  the  route  by  the  pass  to  Mr.  March’s.  The 
summit  of  this  pass  commands  a  magnificent  and  extensive  prospect, 
and  is  called  Buena  Vista.  They  reached  the  Fazenda  of  Mr.  March 
about  midday.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  immediately 
behind  the  main  ridge,  and  between  two  mountains.  The  houses 
were  overflowing  with  visiters,  who  had  assembled  to  pass  the 
holidays.  This  estate  is  large,  embracing  some  thirty  miles  square, 
but  only  a  very  small  proportion  of  it  is  cultivated.  A  large  number 
of  negroes  were  about  the  establishment,  and  every  thing  is  kept  in 
perfect  order.  It  is  a  place  of  fashionable  resort  for  the  inhabitants 
of  Rio,  especially  the  English.  The  houses  were  comfortable  after 
the  Brazilian  style.  The  garden  and  grounds  are  laid  out  on  the  Eng¬ 
lish  plan,  and  well  stocked  with  very  fine  fruits,  peaches,  apples,  pears, 
plums,  gooseberries,  all  of  which  come  to  perfection.  Of  vegetables, 
they  have  potatoes,  cabbage,  turnips,  carrots,  beets,  onions,  parsnips, 
celery,  and  lettuce.  Bananas  will  not  ripen,  the  temperature  being 
frequently  as  low  as  40°.  Mr.  March  said  his  houses  were  situated 
three  thousand  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  the  peaks  in  the  vicinity  are  about  one  thousand  feet  higher. 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


77 


To  the  westward  he  pointed  out  a  peak  said  to  be  eight  thousand  feet 
in  altitude,  and  which  is  the  highest  of  the  range.  So  far  as  is 
known,  no  one  has  gained  the  summit,  although  Mr.  Gardner,  an 
English  botanist,  by  following  the  tracks  of  the  tapir,  had  reached 
within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  it,  after  two  days’  hard  labour,  and 
found  that  the  vegetation  resembled  that  of  temperate  climates. 
Time  did  not  admit  of  our  gentlemen  making  the  attempt.  All  that 
could  be  done  was  to  ascend  the  hill  pointed  out  by  Mr.  March,  in 
the  vicinity  of  his  house,  as  never  having  been  ascended,  and  which 
is  one  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  it.  This  was  accomplished, 
although  with  difficulty.  On  this  trip  they  met  with  fallen  timber, 
but  the  Brazilian  woods,  in  general,  were  remarked  as  being  much 
more  free  from  it  than  our  own.  No  change  in  the  vegetation  was 
observed.  The  route  through  this  pass  is  much  more  difficult  for 
travellers  than  that  of  Estrella,  but  to  the  admirer  of  nature  more 
interesting.  From  the  base  to  the  summit  of  the  mountains  the 
virgin  forest  extends.  The  main  chain  here  is  much  broken ;  the 
peaks  appear  more  in  the  form  of  columns  or  pipes,  and  are  quite 
inaccessible,  casting  a  dark  shade  upon  the  deep  and  wooded  valleys 
beneath.  After  being  hospitably  entertained  they  came  back,  crossing 
over  to  the  island  of  Pagueta,  where  they  had  an  opportunity  of 
examining  the  large  shell  heaps  which  are  fished  up  out  of  the  bay, 
for  the  purpose  of  burning  for  lime,  and  were  not  a  little  surprised  at 
the  numbers  of  different  genera  which  composed  them. 

The  results  of  these  two  expeditions  were  the  addition  of  a  great 
number  of  very  interesting  plants  to  our  collection.  These  will  be 
treated  of  in  the  Botanical  Report. 

A  few  days  before  our  departure,  we  made  a  trip  to  the  top  of  the 
Corcovado.  The  naturalists  who  were  of  our  party,  observed  that 
almost  a  total  change  had  taken  place  in  the  plants  since  their  last 
visit,  about  a  fortnight  before.  I  took  with  me  the  necessary 
instruments  to  measure  its  height,  and  we  all  amused  ourselves 
with  collecting  plants,  insects,  lizards,  &c.  We  took  the  road  that 
turns  off  near  Gloria,  and  even  before  we  began  to  emerge  from  the 
city,  several  novel  kinds  of  ferns  were  observed  growing  on  the 
house-tops  and  walls.  We  soon  entered  coffee  plantations,  groves  of 
bananas,  tamarinds,  mangroves,  and  orange  trees.  A  vast  variety  of 
plants  were  pointed  out  to  me  by  Mr.  Brackenridge,  among  them 
the  beautiful  Vochysia,  with  its  splendid  yellow  blossoms,  showing 
conspicuous  among  the  rest.  After  a  fatiguing  walk  we  reached 

20 


VOL.  I. 


78 


RIO  JANEIRO. 


the  top.  The  last  quarter  of  a  mile,  or  the  last  rise  to  its  summit, 
causes  one  to  become  somewhat  breathless  in  a  hot  day.  But  when 
the  top  is  gained,  it  is  worth  all  the  labour  of  climbing,  and  amply 
repays  for  the  exertion. 

The  whole  of  the  magnificent  harbour,  the  city  and  environs,  lay 
beneath  our  feet.  A  bird’s-eye  view  is  had  of  every  thing,  grouped 
in  the  most  pleasing  variety ;  and  nothing  strikes  one  so  forcibly  as 
the  white  sandy  beaches  of  Botofogo  and  Pray  a  Grande,  with  the 
beautiful  blue  of  the  sea  washing  on  them.  The  many  lakes,  the 
castellated  peaks,  and  the  variously  shaped  craggy  and  broken  hills, 
are  all  softened  by  the  light  and  airy  green  vegetation,  creeping  up 
their  sides  so  as  to  melt  them  almost  into  one.  The  harbour  was 
covered  with  its  busy  and  now  tiny  fleets,  and  many  of  its  large 
islands  looked  as  but  specks  on  its  flat  surface.  The  day  was 
beautifully  clear,  and  the  refreshing  sea  breeze  just  what  we  could 
desire.  The  tower  and  observatory  have  been  destroyed.  To  have 
an  idea  of  the  beauty  of  Rio  and  its  environs,  it  is  necessary  to 
mount  to  the  top  of  the  Corcovado,  or  some  high  peak  in  its 
neighbourhood. 

After  finishing  our  observations,  and  fully  satisfying  ourselves 
with  the  beautiful  scene,  we  descended  to  the  Belle  Rue,  where  we 
enjoyed  a  rest  and  lunch.  We  returned  to  the  city  by  the  way  of 
the  Aqueduct  late  in  the  afternoon,  all  greatly  delighted  with  our 
day’s  jaunt,  which,  beside  the  amusement,  we  had  made  quite  a 
profitable  one  in  the  way  of  collections. 


STAVES  STEEPING. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


CONTENTS. 


CHARACTER  OF  THE  BRAZILIANS  — CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  EMPIRE  — RULING  PART  V — 
ELECTIVE  REGENCY  — ADMINISTRATION  OF  JUSTICE  — ELECTIVE  FRANCHISE  —  ARMY- 
NAVY—  SCHOOLS—  SLAVERY— FEELING  TOWARDS  FOREIGNERS— POPULATION— NATIONAL 
DEBT,  REVENUE  AND  EXPENDITURES  —  COMMERCE  —  EVENTS  IN  THE  SQUADRON  — 
DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO. 


- 


. 


' 

’ 


■ 


. 


CHAPTER  IY. 

POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 

1  8  3  8. 

During  my  stay  at  Rio,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  several 
intelligent  gentlemen,  who  had  long  been  residents  of  the  country, 
I  am  indebted  to  them  for  much  information  relative  to  the  political 
state  of  this  empire.  Brazil,  though  quiet  at  the  time  of  our  visit, 
yet  will  long  be  destined  to  outbreaks  and  alarms,  either  from  local 
oppression  or  some  slight  political  movements.  The  people  for  the 
most  part  take  very  little  interest  in  politics,  or  the  general  welfare 
of  the  state.  As  yet  their  habits  make  them  averse  to  mental 
exertions,  and  they  generally  prefer  their  own  ease,  which  precludes 
them  from  engaging  in  political  excitement.  They  are  not  yet  suffi¬ 
ciently  advanced  in  civilization  and  education,  among  the  mass  of 
the  population,  to  have  risen  from  the  mental  degradation  which  the 
policy  of  the  mother  country  entailed  upon  them. 

The  Brazilians,  from  the  character  I  have  received  of  them,  are 
very  ceremonious  and  punctilious,  susceptible  of  flattery,  suspicious 
yet  courteous,  selfish,  cunning;  assuming  frankness  and  generosity, 
timid,  unsteady  in  purpose,  and  without  any  large  and  compre¬ 
hensive  views.  What  is  claimed  as  a  right  in  a  bold  and  confident 
manner,  is  readily  yielded,  while  often  through  their  ignorance  they 
become  presumptuous. 

The  people  are  farther  advanced  in  morals  and  intelligence  than 
their  government,  but  as  yet  they  are  not  sufficiently  enlightened  to 
know  their  power.  They  are  slow  to  act,  and  appear  very  patient 
under  oppression.  Long  endurance  of  despotism  has  made  them  so. 

Their  new  constitution  was  adopted  in  1825.  This  secured  the 

21 


YOL.  I. 


82 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


legislative  power  from  further  interruption,  and  achieved  a  complete 
victory  over  the  bayonets  and  tyranny  of  Don  Pedro,  by  forcing  him, 
through  the  threats  of  the  people  and  his  fears,  to  grant  a  more 
liberal  constitution.  Political  freedom  seems  to  have  made  rapid 
advancement  from  this  date,  and  the  voice  of  liberty  may  be  said  to 
have  been  heard,  although  it  was  at  first  listened  to  with  apprehen¬ 
sions,  and  its  meaning  imperfectly  understood.  Although  many 
years  have  since  passed,  the  people  have  scarcely  more  than  began 
to  feel  that  they  have  individual  rights,  and  for  the  most  part  yield  a 
blind  obedience  to  the  laws.  This  is  true  as  respects  the  population 
of  the  seaports,  but  in  the  country,  the  population  being  sparse, 
communication  of  every  kind  is  difficult,  and  social  intercourse 
embarrassed  by  early  habits  and  customs.  The  advantages  of  a 
free  and  frequent  interchange  of  sentiments  are  in  consequence 
almost  entirely  unknown.  A  long  time  will  probably  elapse  before 
there  will  be  any  political  struggle  among  them.  They  are  pros¬ 
pering  in  their  private  concerns,  and  contented  without  any  ambition 
to  advance  themselves  in  political  knowledge,  or  to  meddle  with  the 
concerns  of  the  state,  except  in  their  local  operation.  The  state  of 
society  in  the  interior  is  very  much  of  this  character,  and  consequently 
the  affairs  of  the  country  have  suffered  little  derangement  from  the 
difficulties  which  have  occurred,  and  mal-administration  under  the 
different  sovereigns  who  have  held,  rule  for  the  last  thirty  years. 
Through  part  of  this  time  a  rapid  decline  was  experienced  in  the 
national  prosperity,  which  led  to  the  abdication  of  the  late  Emperor 
Pedro  I. 

The  whole  political  machine  by  which  the  government  is  adminis¬ 
tered  is  uncouth  and  awkward,  being  composed  of  a  mixture  of  feudal 
notions  with  the  refinements  of  modern  times.  It  is  moved  and 
sustained  more  by  the  habit  of  obeying  the  laws,  than  skill  and 
judgment  in  administering  them.  There  is  an  entire  absence  of  all 
force,  moral  as  well  as  physical,  to  sustain  the  government,  yet  to 
this  in  a  great  measure  is  to  be  ascribed,  that  the  country  has  not 
been  a  prey  to  anarchy  and  confusion.  Combined  with  the  above 
causes,  is  the  jealousy  that  exists  among  the  parties  who  have  been 
called  to  office,  and  which  prevents  self-aggrandizement.  Pretensions 
have  been  at  times  asserted,  dangerous  to  public  tranquillity  and 
threatening  the  subversion  of  the  established  order  of  things.  These 
have  been  promoted  by  the  disaffected  and  discontented,  principally 
composed  of  or  countenanced  by  those  persons  who,  after  the  depar- 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


83 


ture  of  Don  Pedro  I.,  remained  in  the  country,  and  who,  having  lost 
their  importance  with  their  offices,  returned  to  private  life,  with  their 
pride  wounded,  their  fortunes  and  reputation  impaired  and  injured, 
and  themselves  dissatisfied  with  their  condition.  These  persons  have 
sought  every  occasion  to  disturb  the  even  current  of  events,  and  to 
array  themselves  against  the  power  of  the  state,  wielded  as  they  deem 
it  to  be,  by  plebeian  usurpation  of  the  royal  prerogative ;  but  hitherto 
they  have  failed. 

Causes  of  dissatisfaction  are  not  wanting  to  produce  discontent. 
They  are  indeed  numerous,  and  among  them  are  a  total  want  of 
justice  in  the  administration  of  the  laws  ;  the  neglect  of  all  petitions 
for  political  reform  and  the  remedy  of  abuses;  the  onerous  and 
injurious  regulations  imposed  by  the  government,  and  the  haughty 
conduct  and  absolute  power  of  those  who  hold  office.  Notwith¬ 
standing  all  these  discouragements,  well-informed  residents  perceive 
an  improvement  within  the  last  few  years,  on  the  part  of  the  govern¬ 
ment  and  of  the  people  also.  The  establishment  of  a  public  press  has 
had  its  effect  in  producing  this  change  by  enlightening  the  public 
mind,  and  will  gradually  exercise  the  same  control  here  that  it  does 
elsewhere;  and  education  is  better  attended  to  than  it  used  to  be, 
although  as  yet  it  is  far  in  the  background. 

According  to  the  best  information,  the  present  government  was 
established  by,  and  is  under  the  guidance  of,  a  few  leading  men,  a 
small  party  in  Rio,  who  manage  all  the  political  concerns  of  the 
empire.  They  seem  to  act  without  any  desire  of  personal  aggran¬ 
dizement,  and  apparently  without  ambition  to  be  distinguished 
beyond  the  circle  of  their  party.  From  what  has  already  been  said 
of  the  interior  and  the  character  of  its  inhabitants,  it  will  be  seen 
that  there  is  no  great  difficulty  to  manage  the  provinces  by  a  few 
influential  men,  and  thus  the  whole  power  seems  concentrated  within 
the  city  of  Rio,  where  it  is  easy  to  direct  things  to  the  issue  that  they 
may  desire. 

It  was  this  party  who  overthrew  or  effected  the  reform  in  the 
constitution  under  Don  Pedro  I.  in  1823,  and  established  the  new 
Congress,  consisting  of  a  senatorial  body  of  fifty,  who  were  chosen  for 
life,  and  of  one  hundred  deputies,  for  three  years;  the  reformed 
constitution  provided  that  the  succession  should  devolve  on  the  eldest 
son  of  Pedro  I.,  during  whose  minority  there  should  be  three  regents 
chosen  for  life. 

Things  went  on  badly  after  the  beginning  of  the  new  order  of 


84 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


government,  principally  in  consequence  of  the  disastrous  Banda 
Oriental  war,  which  caused  a  great  sacrifice  of  money  and  resources, 
deranged  the  currency,  and  involved  the  nation  in  debt.  In  1831, 
Don  Pedro  abdicated  the  throne,  and  went  to  Europe ;  the  regency 
came  into  power,  and  this  band  of  leading  men  formed  themselves 
into  an  opposition  to  the  government.  They  succeeded  in  making 
some  important  changes,  setting  aside  the  three  regents  for  life, 
substituting  one  elected  for  four  years,  and  introducing  a  federal 
system,  which  gives  the  provinces  the  right  of  local  legislatures  to 
regulate  their  provincial  concerns,  independently  of  the  general 
government. 

The  manner  in  which  the  reforms  in  the  constitution  were  effected, 
will  give  some  insight  into  the  mode  of  conducting  business,  and 
exhibits  the  power  of  this  party.  The  plans,  after  being  long  under 
discussion  in  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  were  referred  to  a  committee 
of  that  body,  who  reported  upon  them,  and  they  were  finally  passed, 
under  a  decision  by  the  Chambers  that  the  Senate  and  Regency  had 
no  right  to  vote,  control,  or  even  deliberate  upon  the  question.  They 
thus  assumed  to  themselves  the  whole  power  of  legislative  action  on 
so  momentous  a  subject,  totally  disregarding  the  constitutional  claims 
of  the  other  co-ordinate  and  co-equal  branches  of  the  government, 
whose  concurrence  was  necessary  to  legalize  all  their  acts  under  the 
constitution,  and  whose  authority  was  then  in  vigour,  and  could  not  be 
suspended,  although  it  was  susceptible  of  modification  in  the  proper 
form.  This  subject  was  recommended  to  the  attention  of  the  people 
in  1833  with  a  view  to  party  action  on  it,  and  new  elections  were 
ordered,  for  the  purpose  of  deliberating  upon  a  new  constitution. 
But  from  some  circumstances,  the  regents  were  not  willing  to  accede 
to  the  measure,  after  it  had  passed  the  forms  of  legislation  in  the 
Chamber  of  Deputies ;  they  steadfastly  adhered  to  the  determination  of 
withholding  their  sanction  to  the  law,  opposing  all  terms  of  compro¬ 
mise.  For  a  long  time  the  tranquillity,  if  not  the  destinies  of  the 
country,  was  in  jeopardy.  The  regents  were  finally,  it  is  supposed, 
and  generally  believed,  brought  over  by  pecuniary  considerations. 
The  Senate  also  ineffectually  attempted  to  interpose  a  protest  against 
the  measure  (the  election  of  a  regent  to  hold  office  for  four  years),  not 
only  to  sustain  their  dignity  but  maintain  their  rights ;  neither  was  it 
satisfactory  to  the  people  generally,  nor  to  the  national  guard,  who  it 
was  well  known  would  have  supported  the  regents  in  their  opposition. 
All  impediments,  however,  to  the  passage  of  this  favourite  and  impor- 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


85 


tant  measure,  were  overcome  by  the  power  and  management  of  this 
band  of  leading  men,  who  contrived  to  unite  with  them  the  most 
opposite  characters,  and  to  neutralize  personal  animosity,  as  well  as 
party  strife,  absorbing  all  other  subjects,  and  enlisting  them  in 
support  of  this  measure.  They  thus  clearly  showed  their  influence 
in  being  able  to  set  aside  constitutional  restraints,  overcoming  the 
executive  power,  and  controlling  the  senatorial  aristocracy. 

The  new  constitution  seems  to  operate  satisfactorily  under  these 
leaders.  There  are,  however,  some  features  in  it  which  give  its 
warmest  friends  many  fears  respecting  the  stability  of  the  govern¬ 
ment.  One  of  these  is  the  difficulty  of  making  the  provincial 
legislatures  work  harmoniously  with  the  general  government.  Great 
stress  is,  however,  laid  upon  the  character  of  the  Brazilians,  who  are 
disinclined  to  change,  and  upon  their  habits  of  obedience  to  the  laws 
and  constituted  authority.  This  gives  a  well-grounded  hope  for  the 
peaceful  and  onward  march  of  the  public  prosperity  under  the  new 
constitution. 

Every  exertion  is  making  to  give  the  young  Emperor  a  good 
education,  and  his  talents  are  well  spoken  of. 

The  regulation  of  the  currency  has  continued  to  claim  the  atten¬ 
tion  of  the  government,  as  involving  the  most  important  questions, 
and  those  likely  to  bring  about  difficulties.  Some  apprehensions 
are  entertained  that  the  local  governments  may  apply  a  remedy 
themselves.  In  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  all  money  bills  originate, 
but  the  Senate  may  amend  them.  All  laws  must  be  sanctioned  by 
the  Emperor  after  having  passed  both  branches  of  the  legislature. 
In  case  of  disagreement  between  the  two  houses,  the  members  unite 
in  the  Senate  chamber,  and  the  question  is  decided  by  a  majority  of 
votes.  There  are  no  doubt  many  sources  of  discord,  but  they  are 
not  fully  known  by  any,  except  the  principal  actors,  and  few  are 
aware  how  the  affairs  of  the  kingdom  are  going  on.  At  this  time 
(1838  and  39)  all  those  acquainted  with  the  people  and  govern¬ 
ment  considered  the  whole  kingdom  in  a  precarious  state,  the  admi¬ 
nistration  at  Bio  Janeiro  was  believed  to  be  unpopular,  while  some 
of  the  provinces  evinced  a  strong  disposition  to  join  with  that  of  Bio 
Grande  in  revolution.  But  this  cannot  succeed.  Bio,  with  its 
situation  and  commercial  advantages,  must  and  always  will  have  the 
ascendency  in  one  way  or  other,  will  control  its  resources,  and  must 
be  the  seat  of  government  of  this  empire. 

The  administration  of  justice  is  confided  to  two  high  tribunals 

22 


VOL.  I. 


86 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL, 


which,  are  open  to  the  public,  and  where  causes  are  decided  on 
appeal  by  a  majority  of  the  judges. 

These  tribunals  are,  first,  the  Relapao,  of  which  there  are  two 
branches,  one  at  Rio  and  the  other  at  Bahia,  each  composed  of  eight 
judges.  Second,  the  Supreme  Tribunal  of  Justice,  of  twelve  judges. 
The  inferior  courts  are  those  for  the  trial  of  civil  and  criminal  cases, 
an  Orphans’  Court,  and  a  Court  and  Judge  of  Findings  and  Losings, 
the  last  of  which  is  not  yet  abolished,  however  obsolete  it  may  have 
become.  Great  corruption  exists  in  them  all,  and  no  class  of  people 
are  so  unpopular  as  the  judges.  It  is  generally  believed,  and  the 
belief  is  acted  upon,  that  to  obtain  justice,  all  classes,  including 
priests  and  laymen,  lawyer  and  client,  legislators  and  people,  regents 
and  ministers,  must  submit  to  great  imposition;  that  it  is  next  to 
impossible  to  recover  a  debt  by  law  if  a  debtor  has  money  or 
patronage,  and  refuses  to  pay,  except  through  bribery.  It  is  difficult 
to  obtain  the  payment  even  of  an  acknowledged  note  of  hand, 
through  the  process  of  the  law,  and  it  generally  takes  years  to 
accomplish. 

It  is,  however,  greatly  to  the  praise  of  the  Brazilians,  that  it  is  not 
often  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  law  for  this  purpose.  The 
greatest  injustice  occurs  in  the  Orphans’  Court;  but  the  Court  of 
Findings  and  Losings  is  one  of  the  most  singular  in  this  respect.  It 
takes  charge  of  all  things  lost  and  found,  making  it  the  duty  of  a 
person  finding  any  thing  to  deposit  it  with  the  judge.  The  loser,  to 
prove  property,  must  have  three  witnesses  to  swear  that  they  saw 
him  lose  it,  and  three  others,  that  they  saw  the  finder  pick  it  up, 
otherwise  it  remains  in  deposit.  To  show  the  working  of  this 
system,  a  gentleman  of  Rio  found  a  bank  note  of  four  hundred 
milrees  (about  $250).  The  owner  went  to  him  and  claimed  it, 
proving  satisfactorily  to  the  finder  that  the  identical  bank  note  was 
his,  upon  which  the  finder  gave  it  up.  The  Judge  of  Findings  and 
Losings  heard  of  the  circumstance,  sent  for  him,  and  asked  a  state¬ 
ment  of  the  case,  which  the  finder  unsuspectingly  related.  The 
judge  praised  his  honourable  conduct,  and  was  punctiliously  polite. 
The  next  day,  however,  he  issued  an  order  for  the  deposit  of  the 
money  found,  and  because  it  was  disregarded,  the  finder,  a  respect¬ 
able  foreign  merchant,  was  arrested  in  the  street,  and  sent  to  prison, 
to  be  confined  with  common  criminals.  The  jailer,  however,  having 
private  apartments  for  those  who  could  pay  for  them,  he  became  his 
guest,  and  was  preserved  from  the  disgust  of  being  a  close  prisoner, 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


87 


and  the  companion  of  degraded  and  depraved  wretches.  Before  he 
could  regain  his  liberty,  he  had  to  pay  the  amount  found,  the 
decision  being  the  forfeiture  of  a  like  sum,  together  with  the  jailer’s 
fees,  &c. 

The  justices  of  the  peace  for  each  district  are  elected  by  the 
people,  four  at  a  time,  to  serve  as  many  years  by  turns,  substituting 
one  for  the  other,  when  sickness  or  other  circumstances  prevent 
either  from  serving.  They  have  final  judgments  in  amounts  not 
exceeding  sixteen  milrees.  In  cases  of  civil  process,  they  act  as 
mediators  to  effect  a  compromise  and  reconcile  difficulties.  Their 
political  attributes  are  to  preserve  the  peace  in  case  of  riot  or  disorder 
among  the  people,  and  they  have  a  right  to  call  on  the  national 
guard  or  military  police  to  aid  them,  who  must  act  under  their 
direction.  There  is  no  civil  police,  and  no  imprisonment  for  debt. 
Trial  by  jury  was  at  first  limited  to  political  offences  and  violations  of 
the  liberty  of  the  press,  hut  it  is  now  extended  to  criminal  cases,  and 
in  some  instances  to  civil  suits.  Sixty  persons  compose  the  jury,  and 
forty  are  necessary  to  try  causes.  Juiz  de  decrito  (judge  of  law) 
sits  with  them  in  court,  acts  as  president,  and  applies  the  law  to  the 
cases  the  jury  may  decide.  Jurymen  serve  for  one  year,  and  are 
chosen  in  the  following  manner.  In  each  district  the  vigairo  (vicar), 
a  justice  of  the  peace  and  a  member  of  the  municipality,  select  from 
a  list  of  male  parishioners,  those  qualified  in  their  judgment  for  jury¬ 
men,  and  submit  the  names  to  the  municipality,  who,  assisted  by  the 
vigairo  and  justice  of  the  peace,  purge  the  list  of  such  as  may  be 
considered  improper  persons.  It  is  then  officially  communicated  by 
the  municipality  to  the  justice  of  the  peace,  and  posted  up  for  public 
inspection  in  the  office,  and  on  the  doors  of  the  parish  churches 
throughout  the  district. 

To  entitle  any  one  to  vote  at  an  election,  he  must  have  an  income 
of  two  hundred  milrees  per  annum  from  property,  trade,  labour  or 
employment  of  any  kind.  The  vigairo  sits  with  the  judges  at 
elections  to  decide  on  the  qualifications  of  voters.  Friars  or 
members  of  religious  fraternities  are  not  entitled  to  a  vote.  Free 
blacks  have  all  the  civil  rights,  and  vote  at  elections  the  same  as 
white  men. 

The  attorney-general  of  the  nation  is  the  accuser  in  all  criminal 
cases.  Criminals  have  the  right  of  counsel. 

It  may  be  said  that  there  is  no  standing  army  in  Brazil,  for  the  few 
troops  do  not  merit  that  name.  A  military  staff  on  a  large  scale  is 


88 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


supported,  with  a  large  corps  of  military  police,  and  a  national  guard. 
The  national  guard  is  organized  by  law,  and  in  it  all  males  from 
eighteen  to  forty-five  years  of  age  are  enrolled.  They  are  equipped 
at  their  own  cost,  the  nation  furnishing  arms  and  ammunition  only. 
Detachments  of  this  guard  are  on  duty  daily  at  the  palace  and  public 
offices. 

The  navy  is  not  effective ;  they  want  seamen,  and  are  not  likely  to 
have  any.  A  naval  academy  is  established  for  the  education  of 
cadets  or  midshipmen.  Here  they  enter  at  twelve  years  of  age, 
receiving  some  of  the  first  rudiments  of  education,  and  remain  four 
years.  After  passing  an  examination  they  are  sent  to  sea,  serve 
there  four  years,  and  if  found  qualified  are  then  promoted  to  second 
lieutenants. 

The  military  academy  they  enter  later,  remain  seven  years,  passing 
through  various  courses  of  study,  and  if  they  are  found  competent, 
they  are  made  lieutenants.  From  what  I  understood,  the  system  of 
education  is  very  imperfect. 

Schools  for  educating  the  people  have  been  established,  and  the 
female  sex  is  now  allowed  to  be  educated. 

Agriculture  is  extending,  and  the  slave  trade,  since  the  treaty  with 
England,  has  been  prohibited ;  but  large  numbers  of  slaves  are  still 
easily  smuggled,  by  the  connivance  of  the  authorities,  and  although 
many  are  captured  by  British  cruisers,  yet  it  is  said  that  more  than 
one  half  of  the  vessels  escape,  and  smuggle  the  slaves  into  the  small 
rivers  and  harbours,  bribing  the  collectors,  who  permit  them  to  be 
landed.  After  landing,  the  slaves  are  driven  into  the  woods,  where 
they  are  secreted  until  they  are  sold  to  the  planters  in  the  interior. 

The  slaves  do  not  increase,  as  procreation  is  prevented  as  much  as 
possible.  The  two  sexes  are  generally  locked  up  at  night  in  separate 
apartments.  The  number  of  slaves  imported  into  Rio  and  Bahia 
previous  to  the  prohibition  of  the  slave  trade  in  1830,  was  about 
forty  thousand  a  year  for  the  former,  and  ten  thousand  for  the  latter, 
as  follows : 


RIO. 

BAHIA. 

1828 

41,913 

• 

8,860 

1829 

40,015 

.  0 

12,808 

1830 

half  year,  29,777 

• 

8,588. 

About  one-third  of  these  were  lost  by  death,  leaving  two-thirds  as 
an  accession  to  the  labour  of  the  country. 


89 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 

Under  contraband  since  1830,  the  number  annually  imported  is 
estimated  at  seven  to  ten  thousand. 

In  speaking  of  the  apprehension  of  a  rise  of  the  blacks  in  the  pro¬ 
vinces,  the  well  informed  seemed  to  entertain  no  kind  of  fear  of  such 
an  event.  I  was  told  that  Bahia  was  the  only  point  at  which  insur¬ 
rections  were  ever  likely  to  occur,  and  this  was  from  the  prevalence 
of  the  Mina  slaves,  who  are  very  intelligent,  and  capable  of  forming 
organized  bodies,  which  they  occasionally  have  done.  The  slaves  of 
the  other  provinces  are  of  a  mixed  character,  incapable  of  any  organi¬ 
zation,  and  from  having  been  taken  from  different  tribes  on  the  coast, 
they  are  more  or  less  hostile  to  each  other,  and  would  be  opposed  to 
any  such  union. 

The  Brazilians  have  great  respect  for  foreigners  who  are  not 
Portuguese.  The  latter  are  detested.  They  have  a  strong  bias  in 
favour  of  the  United  States  and  the  American  government  generally. 
They  think  the  time  is  approaching  which  will  unite  the  people  of 
this  continent  in  a  distinct  national  policy,  in  contra-distinction  to 
that  of  Europe,  and  in  rivalry  to  it.  They  are  vain  of  their  own 
country  and  its  institutions,  and  firmly  believe  that  a  high  destiny 
awaits  Brazil.  The  government  in  its  political  relations  with  other 
countries  is  seemingly  confiding  and  liberal. 

The  population  of  the  empire,  taking  the  last  returns  of  the 
members  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  as  a  guide,  is  estimated  at  five 
millions.  No  census  has  yet  been  taken,  but  it  is  thought  to  exceed 
this  number.  The  scrutiny  formerly  exercised  by  the  government 
into  their  domestic  affairs  it  is  said  caused  them  to  conceal  the  actual 
number  of  persons  in  their  families.  Of  the  above  number  about 
two  millions  are  slaves.  No  estimate  has  been  made  of  the  proportion 
which  free  blacks,  mulattoes,  or  Indians  bear  to  the  whites  or  to  each 
other.  The  relative  number  of  slaves  varies  much  in  the  different 
provinces ;  it  is  largest  in  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  the  Minas  Geraes. 
The  population  of  Rio  in  1810  was  estimated  at  forty  thousand,  in 
1838  it  was  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  In  Appendix  XXI. 
will  be  found  a  statement  of  the  population  that  may  be  considered 
semi-official. 

The  national  debt  of  Brazil  amounts  to  one  hundred  million 
milrees,  or  sixty  million  dollars.  The  revenue  was  about  sixteen 
millions  of  dollars  for  1838.  It  is  derived  principally  from  exports 
and  imports.  A  statement  of  the  quantities  of  produce  exported  in 
the  above  year,  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XXII.  I  was  not  able  to 

23 


VOL.  I. 


90 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 

obtain  those  of  the  imports.  The  expenditures  of  the  government  are 
fixed  by  law  at  about  the  same  sum.  All  appropriations  are  specific. 

The  imports  amounted  to  over  twenty  millions  of  dollars.  The 
amount  of  exports  is  variously  stated.  Coffee  is  the  great  staple,  and 
more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  millions  of  pounds  were  exported 
in  1838.  It  is  derived  from  the  central  provinces,  and  the  exports  of 
it  have  more  than  doubled  within  the  last  ten  years.  The  exports  of 
the  southern  provinces  are  mostly  confined  to  hides  and  tallow,  those 
of  the  northern  to  sugar,  cotton,  and  tobacco. 

The  trade  with  the  United  States  has  greatly  increased.  Within 
the  last  few  years  from  one  hundred  and  sixty  to  one  hundred  and 
seventy  American  vessels  take  and  bring  cargoes  to  and  from  the 
United  States,  and  some  foreign  vessels  are  engaged  in  the  same 
trade.  The  consumption  of  American  flour  in  Rio  and  the  neigh¬ 
bouring  country,  has  been  during  the  same  year  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty  thousand  barrels. 

The  state  of  this  country  and  the  southern  republics,  renders  it 
highly  necessary  that  a  suitable  naval  force  should  be  employed  on 
this  coast  for  the  protection  of  our  increasing  trade. 

The  currency  of  the  country  is  in  paper  and  copper.  Gold  and 
silver  coins  are  articles  of  traffic,  and  fluctuate  in  value.  Few  or 
none  are  in  circulation.  The  bank  issues  notes  of  milrees,  which 
also  fluctuate.  The  usual  value  of  a  milree  is  from  sixty  to  seventy 
cents.  One  thousand  five  hundred  ries  are  equal  to  a  dollar. 

Books  of  all  kinds  may  be  printed  and  brought  into  the  country. 
Those  of  foreign  origin  are  not  under  censorship. 

The  great  drawback  to  the  facility  of  business  is  the  number  of 
holidays  on  which  the  custom-house  is  closed,  and  all  business 
suspended.  These  amount  to  about  one  hundred  days  in  the  year. 
This  alone  is  a  great  alleviation  to  the  work  of  the  slave. 

F oreign  merchants  reside  in  the  country,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  city. 

During  our  stay  in  Rio,  George  Smith,  a  seaman,  while  employed 
on  board  of  one  of  the  lighters  in  charge  of  Midshipman  May,  fell 
overboard  and  was  accidentally  struck  with  an  oar ;  on  seeing  it,  Mid¬ 
shipman  May,  in  a  praiseworthy  manner,  jumped  overboard  to  his 
relief,  but  did  not  succeed  in  saving  him,  for  he  sank  immediately 
and  was  drowned. 

The  delays  in  Rio  had  no  effect  upon  the  general  health  of  the 
squadron,  although  I  was  fearful  such  might  be  the  case,  not  only 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


91 


from  the  heat  of  the  climate,  but  the  copious  draughts  of  aguardiente 
with  which  the  foreigners  supply  the  sailors. 

I  found  it  necessary  here  to  increase  the  crews  of  the  ships,  and 
applied  to  Commodore  Nicolson,  commander  of  the  Brazil  station,  for 
that  purpose.  Thirty  men  were  supplied  the  squadron.  They  were 
the  most  indifferent  and  worthless  set,  with  two  or  three  exceptions, 
we  ever  had  on  board.  They  were  almost  the  only  persons  attached 
to  the  vessels  on  whom  it  became  necessary  to  inflict  punishment. 

The  markets  are  abundantly  supplied  with  fish,  beef  and  poultry. 
Vegetables  are  to  be  had  in  abundance,  and  are  all  sold  in  the  streets. 

On  the  26th  the  Peacock  and  tenders  returned,  and  brought  their 
work  up  to  the  observatory  at  Enxados  Island.  Captain  Hudson  had 
not  been  able  to  examine  the  St.  Thomas  Shoal.  Having  lost  five 
days  in  consequence  of  bad  weather,  it  became  impossible  to  accom¬ 
plish  it  within  the  given  time.*  During  his  progress  he  had  lost  an 
anchor,  which,  when  hove  up,  was  found  to  have  been  broken  off  at 
the  shank.  Application  was  immediately  made  to  the  government 
for  one,  which  request  was  very  obligingly  and  promptly  replied  to, 
by  desiring  us  to  select  one  of  a  suitable  size  from  those  in  the 
dock-yard. 

By  the  last  of  December  we  had  completed  all  our  scientific 
duties.  These  consisted  of  a  series  of  pendulum  observations ;  those 
for  longitude  by  moon  culminating  stars ;  circummeridian  observa¬ 
tions  for  latitude ;  magnetic  dip,  intensity,  and  diurnal  variation ;  and 
others,  including  tides,  and  solar  and  terrestrial  radiation.  We  now 
made  every  preparation  for  sea. 

On  the  5th  of  January  the  Porpoise  was  ordered  to  drop  down  near 
a  slaver,  that  it  was  reported  some  of  our  men  had  been  smuggled  on 
board  of,  to  form  a  part  of  her  crew.  She  was  boarded,  and  though 
the  captain  denied  that  they  were  on  board,  after  a  search  two  were 
found.  One  of  them  was  a  black,  who  had  himself  been  a  slave,  yet 
he  had  been  induced  to  enter  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  this 
nefarious  traffic.  This  was  the  brig  Fox,  and  though  undoubtedly 

*  The  measurement  of  the  whole  distance  by  sound  was  reduced,  and  gave 
1°  08'  52"  8"'  for  the  difference  of  meridians.  Each  distance  between  the  vessels 
was  the  mean  of  about  thirty  observations.  The  longitude  of  Cape  Frio,  deduced  from 
that  of  Enxados,  which  had  been  ascertained  by  moon  culminating  stars,  to  be  in 
43°  09'  06"  67"'  west  of  Greenwich,  is,  therefore,  42°  00'  13"  87'"  W.  For  the 
particulars  and  a  diagram  of  this  work  see  Appendix  XXIII. 


92 


POLITICAL  STATE  OF  BRAZIL. 


fitted  for  a  slaver,  she  sailed  under  English  colours ;  it  was  given  out 
that  she  was  bound  for  New  Zealand. 

On  the  6th  of  January,  every  thing  being  ready,  we  weighed 
anchor,  and  dropped  down  the  harbour.  On  passing  the  Inde¬ 
pendence,  we  were  saluted  with  six  cheers,  which  were  returned 
with  enthusiasm. 

There  is  no  difficulty  in  beating  out  of  the  harbour  of  Rio,  with  a 
ship  of  any  class,  although  vessels  sail  generally  in  the  morning, 
with  the  land  breeze.  The  breeze  failing,  we  anchored  without  the 
harbour,  and  I  took  this  opportunity  of  sending  back  the  Flying-Fish, 
in  order  to  recover  some  of  our  men  who  had  absented  themselves. 
Lieutenant-Commanding  Ringgold  took  charge  of  her,  and  effected 
the  object  without  difficulty.  During  this  time  I  employed  the 
officers  in  measuring  the  height  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  again  for  exercise. 

In  the  evening  we  weighed  anchor,  and  stood  to  the  southward  on 
our  course. 


PA  LACE. 


CHAPTER  Y. 


CONTENTS. 

PASSAGE  TO  RIO  NEGRO  —  ARRIVAL  THERE  —  GUACHOS  —  EXCURSION  OF  THE  NATU¬ 
RALISTS— SALT  AND  SALT  LAKES— GOVERNMENT  AND  POPULATION— PRODUCTIONS  — 
TARIFF— INDIANS— WANT  OF  ENTERPRISE— DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COUNTRY— RIVER  AND 
TIDES  — CLIMATE  — VEGETATION— TRADE  — HARBOUR  — SQUADRON  DRIVEN  TO  SEA — 
DANGERS  IN  SURVEYING  —  CONVICT  SETTLEMENT  —  COMMUNICATION  WITH  BUENOS 
AYRES  — DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO  NEGRO  — STATEN  LAND  —  STRAITS  OF  LE  MAIRE — 
APPEARANCE  OF  TERRA  DEL  FUEGO— ITS  HARBOUR— PARHELION— MIRAGE— MEETING 
WITH  THE  RELIEF— HER  DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO— CURRENT— RIO  PLATA— CAPE  RAZA— 
CAPE  ST.  JOSEPII-CAPE  THREE  POINTS— DREDGING— BELLACO  ROCKS— CAPE  ST.  DIEGO 
—  GOOD  SUCCESS  BAY  —  CAPTAIN  KING’S  SAILING  DIRECTIONS  —  NATIVES  -  INTER¬ 
COURSE  WITH  THEM— BOTANY— GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION— NEW  ISLAND— ITS  POSITION 
—ARRIVAL  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR— EMPLOYMENTS. 


* 


AW. A,©©  Hill 


Drawn  by  A.T.Agate. 


Eng4  by  Dawdon  Wright  A  Hatch. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

RIO  NEGRO. 

1  8  39. 

The  winds  proved  light  and  variable  during  our  passage  to  Rio 
Negro,  and  we  occasionally  experienced  a  southwesterly  current,  of 
little  strength.  On  the  18th  January,  when  seventy -eight  miles 
distant  from  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  la  Plata,  we  passed  through  the 
discoloured  water  of  that  river.  Its  temperature  was  4°  less  than 
that  of  the  surrounding  sea.  After  getting  to  the  southward  of  the 
river,  the  direction  of  the  current  changed,  and  it  was  found  to  be 
setting  to  the  northward. 

Towards  evening  on  the  19th,  we  met  many  discoloured  patches 
in  the  water,  and  found  they  proceeded  from  a  species  of  Salpse, 
which  we  had  not  before  seen.  When  the  night  closed  in,  the  sea 
became  very  luminous,  the  vessels  in  passing  through  the  water 
leaving  long  bright  trains  behind  them.  Vivid  lightning  in  the 
west  showed  a  dark  bank  of  clouds,  betokening  a  storm.  About  10 
o’clock  p.  m.,  a  haze  suddenly  enveloped  us;  the  temperature  of  both 
air  and  water  fell  from  67°  to  57°,  ten  degrees,  giving  a  cold  clammy 
feeling  to  the  air.  The  water  became  quite  smooth,  and  the  breeze 
died  away  ;  all  on  deck  seemed  awakened  to  a  sense  of  danger.  We 
immediately  shortened .  sail  and  sounded,  but  found  no  bottom  with 
one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  line.  The  vessels  of  the  squadron 
came  up  in  close  order,  sailing  as  it  were  in  a  sea  of  silver,  from  the 
light  of  which  their  forms  became  visible.  The  effect  was  beautiful, 
and  increased  the  mysterious  and  alarming  sensation.  Shortly  after 
we  had  a  change  of  wind  to  the  southwest,  followed  by  a  dense  fog, 
which  lasted  for  a  day,  but  the  temperature  of  both  air  and  water 


96 


RIO  NEGRO. 


remained  six  to  eight  degrees  colder  until  the  23d,  when  it  again  rose 
to  the  height  it  had  been  before. 

I  have  little  doubt  but  this  remarkable  change  and  fall  of  tempera¬ 
ture  were  caused  by  the  near  approach  to  icebergs,  some  of  which 
have  been  at  times  seen  nearly  in  this  latitude,  38°  55'  S.,  longitude 
54°  30'  W.  After  this  we  had  fine  pleasant  weather  until  our  arrival 
off  Rio  Negro,  the  temperature  of  the  air  and  water  having  fallen 
10°  during  our  progress  from  Rio. 

On  the  22d  we  experienced  a  heavy  dew.  Our  observations 
confirmed  the  remarks  of  Captain  King,  that  it  is  accompanied  by  a 
northerly  wind  or  change  to  that  quarter. 

We  next  passed  over  the  position  assigned  the  Ariel  Rocks  on  the 
charts,  and  sailed  two  degrees  on  their  parallel,  but  saw  no  indication 
of  them. 

In  approaching  the  coast,  the  soundings  were  remarkably  regular, 
decreasing  about  a  fathom  in  three  miles.  After  passing  to  the  south 
of  the  river  La  Plata,  they  were  composed  of  fine  gray  sand,  with 
pebbles  and  shells,  while  to  the  north  they  were  of  blue  mud. 
Soundings  were  had  in  fifty  fathoms  water,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  off  the  coast. 

On  the  25th  we  discovered  the  coast,  which  is  a  line  of  low  sand¬ 
hills,  without  trees,  and  it  exhibits  little  appearance  of  vegetation. 
In  the  evening  we  anchored  off  the  bar,  in  eight  fathoms  water,  just 
after  which  we  experienced  one  of  the  remarkable  squalls  of  this 
coast,  that  rose  from  the  southward  and  westward ;  it  was  attended 
with  much  lightning  and  thunder;  quantities  of  sand  and  insects 
were  blown  off  from  the  land.  But  little  rain  fell.  The  barometer 
indicated  this  squall  by  a  depression  of  two-tenths  of  an  inch.  The 
wind  soon  changed  and  brought  fine  weather,  the  thermometer  falling 
6°  during  the  change. 

Having  been  led  to  believe  we  should  be  boarded  by  pilots  on  our 
anchoring  off  the  bar,  I  was  a  good  deal  surprised  to  find  none,  and 
no  endeavour  making  to  board  us,  although  the  sea  was  quite  smooth. 
The  only  appearances  of  inhabitants  which  we  could  see  with  our 
telescopes,  were  a  few  horsemen,  suspiciously  reconnoitring  us  from 
the  flag-staff  on  the  top  of  the  hill.  I  then  concluded  to  despatch  the 
Sea-Gull  under  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  into  the  river, 
for  the  purpose  of  having  communication  with  the  town,  directing 
him  to  take  the  channel  leading  to  the  northward  and  westward, 
as  shown  by  the  only  chart  we  had,  whilst  I  followed  in  the  Flying- 


RIO  NEGRO. 


97 


Fish,  with  the  scientific  gentlemen ;  it  proved  to  he  the  wrong  one, 
and  on  the  tide  falling  the  schooners  both  grounded.  Our  situation 
was  not  the  most  agreeable,  for  in  the  event  of  the  sea  rising,  we 
should  have  been  exposed  to  all  the  fury  of  the  surf  without  any 
escape  from  the  numerous  sand-bars.  It  became  necessary  as  the 
tide  rose  to  make  the  river.  The  Sea-Gull  having  got  off,  I  put  the 
scientific  gentlemen  on  board  of  her,  and  ordered  Lieutenant- Com¬ 
mandant  Ringgold  to  proceed  in,  keeping  in  what  the  chart  pointed 
out  as  the  channel-way  and  deepest  water.  He  finally  succeeded  in 
getting  into  the  river,  after  thumping  heavily  over  a  sand-bar,  with 
some  fears  on  the  part  of  the  passengers,  but  without  injury  to  the 
vessel,  and  anchored  after  dark  about  half  a  mile  up  the  river. 

During  this  time  an  amusing  occurrence  took  place  in  the  roadstead. 
I  had  directed  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  in  case  of  accident 
or  requiring  aid,  to  make  signal,  and  that  I  would  order  boats  at  once 
to  his  assistance ;  when  the  night  closed  in,  the  signal  was  seen,  when 
the  requisite  signal  was  made  from  the  Flying-Fish  to  the  different 
vessels  to  send  boats  to  assist.  The  commanding  officer’s  mind  being 
somewhat  impressed  with  an  idea  of  the  hostility  of  those  on  shore,  con¬ 
cluded  the  boats  were  required  to  repel  an  attack,  and  had  them  fully 
armed ;  in  this  state  they  were  met  in  a  short  time  exerting  themselves 
to  their  fullest  strength  at  their  oars  to  he  in  time  to  take  part  in  the 
fray,  and  appeared  greatly  disappointed  when  it  proved  a  false  alarm, 
and  that  none  was  to  take  place. 

Shortly  after  the  schooner  anchored  a  voice  was  heard  from  the 
shore  ordering  a  boat  to  be  sent  immediately,  when  a  party  landed,  but 
no  one  was  found  to  receive  them.  Seeing  a  light  at  a  distance  they 
proceeded  towards  it ;  it  proved  to  be  the  pilot’s  house,  a  long  low 
barn-like  building,  but  no  inhabitants  were  visible,  and  none  made 
their  appearance  until  our  party  had  taken  a  survey  of  the  premises. 
The  furniture  was  of  a  rude  and  scanty  description,  a  table,  bench, 
two  or  three  bunks  in  one  corner,  and  in  another  a  number  of  arms, 
consisting  of  cutlasses,  carbines,  and  pikes,  in  good  order;  in  the 
others  various  accoutrements.  The  two  pilots,  one  an  Englishman 
and  the  other  a  Frenchman,  with  a  negro,  then  made  their  appear¬ 
ance,  and  unravelled  the  mystery,  by  informing  them  that  the  vessels 
had  been  taken  for  the  French  squadron,  and  much  alarm  had  been 
created  by  our  visit;  they  also  said  that  the  guard  of  about  thirty 
Guachos  were  in  ambush  near  where  they  landed,  with  the  intention  of 
cutting  our  party  off,  but  hearing  them  speaking  English,  they  found 

25 


VOL.  I. 


98 


RIO  NEGRO. 


to  their  satisfaction  that  they  were  not  French.  They  also  stated 
that  all  the  inhabitants  living  near  the  month  of  the  river  had  fled  to 
the  town,  and  that  most  of  the  women  and  children  in  the  town  were 
hurrying  off  to  the  interior.  They  were  likewise  employed  driving 
off  the  cattle,  and  preparing  to  fire  the  country,  the  usual  mode  of 
warfare,  and  were  rejoiced  to  identify  us  as  Americans. 

All  this  accounted  for  the  reconnoitring  that  we  had  observed,  and 
our  not  being  able  to  obtain  a  pilot.  What  still  more  alarmed  them 
was  the  different  vessels  firing  whilst  surveying,  and  our  making  the 
attempt  to  force  the  passage  in  the  small  vessels. 

The  captain  of  the  coast  guard  now  afforded  all  facilities,  and  a 
pilot  for  the  schooner  was  sent  on  board  to  take  her  up  the  river,  and 
horses  and  guides  for  a  party  to  visit  the  town  were  furnished. 

The  next  morning  a  detachment  of  lancers  arrived  from  the 
governor,  with  orders  not  to  allow  our  vessels  to  proceed  up,  and  that 
the  pilot  should  come  on  shore,  which  effectually  put  a  stop  to  our 
plans  :  when  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  determined  to  go  by 
land. 

It  caused  much  alarm  to  the  pilot,  who  entreated  the  officers  to 
intercede  with  the  governor  in  his  behalf,  and  for  that  of  the  captain 
of  the  coast  guard,  stating  that  their  lives  would  be  forfeited  for 
having  attempted  to  pilot  a  vessel  without  the  governor’s  orders. 
After  some  delay,  a  party  proceeded  to  Carmen,  under  the  escort  of 
Guachos,  to  wait  on  the  governor  or  commandant.  On  their  way 
they  met  with  a  cordial  welcome  from  all  they  passed,  as  the  minds 
of  all  were  now  entirely  relieved  from  fear,  and  great  delight  was 
expressed  at  seeing  the  North  Americans. 

These  Guachos  are  generally  well  made,  tall  and  muscular, 
with  swarthy  complexions,  black  eyes,  and  long  hair,  very  large 
mustachios  and  remarkably  small  feet.  Their  costume  is  a  red 
striped  shirt  and  white  drawers,  large,  loose,  and  fringed  at  the 
bottom  of  the  leg,  called  calzoncillas.  Their  trousers  ( chilipa )  con¬ 
sist  of  two  yards  of  scarlet  cloth,  which  is  sometimes  ornamented  at 
the  corners;  to  form  this  into  any  thing  like  a  garment  appeared 
strange  enough,  yet  when  it  is  on  the  wearer  it  has  the  appearance 
of  a  pair  of  Turkish  trousers.  The  mode  in  which  it  is  put  on  is  to 
confine  the  ends  round  the  waist  by  a  girdle  ( triando ),  the  middle  of 
the  cloth  passing  down  between  the  legs,  while  the  ends  fall  over  the 
girdle.  On  the  head  was  worn  a  red  conical  cap  surmounted  by  a 
tassel. 


RIO  NEGRO. 


99 


Their  riding  boots  or  leggings  are  made  of  the  hide  from  the  leg  of 
a  horse.  This  is  stripped  off  and  put  on  the  leg  while  yet  green, 
where  it  is  suffered  to  dry,  and  remain  until  worn  out.  They  fit 
very  closely  to  the  foot  like  a  stocking.  The  two  largest  toes  of  each 
foot  were  uncovered,  for  the  convenience  of  putting  them  into  the 
stirrup,  which  is  only  large  enough  to  admit  them.  A  long  knife  in 
the  girdle  completes  the  dress. 

During  the  time  of  our  stay,  the  naturalists  ranged  the  country  in 
the  vicinity,  and  the  officers  were  engaged  in  making  a  survey  of  the 
roadstead  and  bar. 

The  road  to  El  Carmen  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  over  a 
range  of  downs,  the  south  side  being  low.  The  river  continues, 
about  one-third  of  a  mile  wide,  flowing  in  a  broad,  still  current. 
There  are  no  trees  to  be  seen  in  the  landscape. 

On  their  way  they  stopped  at  several  estancias.  These  are 
houses  built  of  adobes  or  unburnt  brick,  divided  into  two  or  three 
apartments,  without  floor,  ceiling,  or  furniture,  and  with  a  few 


outhouses  for  the  horses  and  slaves,  and  a  coural  for  the  cattle,  formed 
of  high  poles,  placed  so  near  as  to  prevent  the  cattle  from  breaking 
through ;  the  poles  are  from  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter,  and  from 
twenty  to  thirty  feet  high.  They  were  met  on  the  way  by  the 
minister  of  finance  or  collector,  whose  interrogations  were  satisfac¬ 
torily  answered,  when  they  were  allowed  again  to  proceed. 

The  next  person  whom  they  encountered  was  an  American,  Dr. 
Ducatel,  who  was  especially  despatched  by  the  governor;  he 
announced  himself  as  a  physician  and  a  citizen  of  the  United  States. 
His  appearance  was  unlike  both.  He  was  dressed  in  the  chilipa  and 
calzoncillas,  in  the  full  costume,  and  had  the  appearance,  of  the 
Guachos.  His  skill  was  much  vaunted  by  his  attendants.  We 


100 


RIO  NEGRO. 


afterwards  understood  that  the  doctor,  having  picked  up  a  smattering 
of  physic,  and  wishing  to  acquire  a  fortune,  had  gone  to  Buenos 
Ayres  to  seek  one.  There  he  accidentally  heard  of  the  want  of  Rio 
Negro  in  that  respect;  he  embarked  for  that  place  with  an  ample 
store  of  drugs,  and  established  himself  as  apothecary,  surgeon  and 
physician.  He  is  reported  as  having  done  well  for  some  time, 
notwithstanding  the  healthiness  of  the  climate  and  place,  until  the 
troubles  at  Buenos  Ayres  with  the  F rench,  when  the  communication 
with  the  city  being  cut  off,  had  prevented  him  from  obtaining  his 
usual  supplies,  and  the  troops  from  receiving  their  pay.  With  the 
former  he  had  lost  the  means  of  curing  his  patients,  and  with  the 
latter  the  remuneration  that  was  due  him.  He  had  therefore,  to  use 
his  own  term,  “retired  from  business,”  and  lived  several  miles  from 
the  town,  husbanding  his  estate,  which  consisted  of  an  estancia,  as 
above  described,  and  his  demands  upon  the  government  and  soldiers. 

Under  his  escort  they  arrived  at  the  pueblo,  consisting  of  a  few 
rows  of  mud  and  brick  huts,  scattered  without  any  regularity  over  a 
sandy  declivity  by  the  side  of  the  river. 

On  the  opposite  slope  was  the  fort,  an  enclosure  of  some  extent,  in 
which  were  seen  the  house  of  the  governor  and  the  barracks.  A 
presentation  to  the  Governor-General,  Juan  Jose  Hernandez,  now 
took  place.  He,  on  being  informed  of  our  character,  and  the  object 
of  our  visit,  received  our  officers  in  a  most  courteous  and  friendly 
manner.  He  is  a  native  of  Buenos  Ayres,  of  dignified  manners, 
polite  and  courteous,  and  clothed  with  great  authority.  They  were 
invited  to  dine  with  him,  and  received  his  hospitality. 

The  doctor  now  undertook  to  show  them  the  lions  of  the  place, 
and  carried  them  to  the  part  of  the  town  nearest  the  river,  in  which 
were  the  only  two  houses  built  of  red  brick.  There  they  were 
introduced  to  an  old  Portuguese,  who  kept  the  only  mercantile 
establishment  in  the  place.  It  was  a  small  store,  said  to  have  a  very 
promiscuous  assortment  of  goods,  though  the  stock  had  become 
somewhat  reduced,  as  an  evidence  of  which,  a  few  of  the  inhabitants 
applied  to  be  furnished  with  pairs  of  pantaloons  from  on  board  ship, 
for  their  own  were  worn  out,  and  the  only  articles  of  dry  goods  at 
present  in  the  store,  were  three  or  four  yards  of  calico. 

An  American  by  the  name  of  Adams,  who  was  absent  at  the  time 
of  our  visit,  has  engrossed  all  the  trade  and  business  of  this  place, 
and  no  other  vessels  but  those  in  which  he  is  interested  had  traded 
with  it  for  the  last  two  years,  with  the  exception  of  two  whale  ships, 


RIO  NEGRO. 


101 


in  1837  and  1838 ;  on  them  a  duty  of  twelve  and  a  half  cents  per  ton 
was  levied,  although  their  sole  object  was  to  obtain  fresh  provisions. 
This,  together  with  the  difficult  and  changing  bar,  will  always  pre¬ 
vent  their  resorting  to  this  port. 

The  inducements  for  a  merchant  vessel  to  visit  this  port  are  few,  for 
it  would  be  difficult  to  dispose  of  even  the  most  necessary  articles,  in 
consequence  of  the  poverty  of  the  place,  and  there  is  no  possibility  of 
obtaining  any  thing  in  return  except  salt.  Of  this  there  are  several 
cargoes  in  stack  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  it  is  said  could 
be  delivered  on  board  for  twenty  cents  per  bushel.  It  is  obtained 
from  the  salt  lakes,  or  salinas,  on  the  Campos,  and  is  transported  to 
the  river  in  ox  carts.  I  regretted  extremely  that  I  had  not  time  to 
spare  to  send  a  party  to  explore  them,  in  order  to  have  ascertained 
the  extent  of  the  staple  commodity  of  this  port. 

These  salt  lakes  are  known  to  be  numerous  throughout  the 
Pampas,  and  within  a  few  leagues  of  the  town  of  El  Carmen  there 
are  four,  from  two  to  three  leagues  in  circumference,  from  which 
salt  has  been  taken,  besides  many  others  of  smaller  dimensions. 
From  the  largest  of  these,  the  salt  that  is  exported  from  the  Rio 
Negro  is  mostly  obtained.  In  dry  weather  it  is  said  to  form  very 
rapidly,  so  much  so  that  it  may  at  times  be  gathered  daily,  and  that 
it  attains  the  thickness  of  two  inches  in  twenty-four  hours.  How  far 
this  is  true,  I  will  not  pretend  to  vouch.  Still  more  wonderful  stories 
are  told  of  the  larger  lakes  in  the  interior ;  of  their  being  ten  leagues 
in  circumference ;  and  they  are  described  as  appearing  as  if  covered 
with  a  crust  of  dazzling  whiteness,  so  strong  that  a  horse  and  rider 
may  pass  over  it  without  leaving  an  impression.  In  heavy  rains 
these  lakes  are  converted  into  morasses  of  black  mud,  which,  as  the 
water  evaporates  becomes  encrusted  with  salt.  The  salt  is  beau¬ 
tifully  white  and  finely  crystallized,  and  requires  no  purification 
before  carrying  it  to  market.  The  specimens  were  thought  to  equal 
in  purity  those  from  our  own  springs.  The  general  belief  relative  to 
these  salt  lakes  is,  that  the  salt  is  disseminated  through  the  soil,  no 
salt  in  a  solid  state  having  yet  been  found  in  any  part  of  the  country, 
and  no  satisfactory  information  could  be  obtained  relative  to  their 
having  become  weaker,  as  the  only  person  who  was  able  to  give  this 
information  was  Mr.  Adams,  who,  as  I  mentioned  before,  was  absent. 

It  appears  that  the  policy  of  the  present  government  of  Buenos 
Ayres,  has  been  to  discourage  the  raising  of  cattle  and  the  exportation 
of  hides  from  this  place,  in  order,  it  is  said,  to  concentrate  the  trade 

26 


VOL.  i. 


102 


RIO  NEGRO. 


at  Buenos  Ayres.  The  large  herds  that  were  formerly  kept  in  this 
country  are  now  reduced  to  comparatively  few. 

None  of  the  government  officers  have  received  any  salaries  for  the 
last  eighteen  months. 

There  are  about  two  thousand  inhabitants  within  a  circuit  of 
eighty  miles,  exclusive  of  a  few  roving  Indians.  The  population  of 
Carmen  is  about  five  hundred.  There  are  five  Americans  residing 
here,  who  state  that  they  enjoy  all  the  protection  that  the  government 
can  give,  and  that  they  are  well  treated. 

The  Rio  Negro  is  navigable  for  boats  to  the  village  of  Chichula, 
two  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth. 

The  distance  across  the  country  to  Buenos  Ayres  is  but  five  hun¬ 
dred  miles,  yet  it  requires  fifteen  days  to  communicate  with  it ;  the 
governor  had  received  no  advices  or  information  for  the  last  two 
months  from  that  place.  The  route  is  very  uncertain,  owing  to  the 
hordes  of  hostile  Indians. 

Grain,  fruit,  and  vegetables  thrive  well,  and  with  proper  industry 
every  thing  might  be  produced  in  abundance. 

The  climate  is  delightful,  and  cold  weather  is  seldom  felt,  although 
ice  has  occasionally  been  seen  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

Bullocks  and  horses  are  the  principal  articles  of  trade ;  indeed  they 
constitute  the  legal  tender  of  the  country.  The  former  are  worth 
from  five  to  ten  dollars,  according  to  age ;  wild  horses  two  or  three 
dollars,  and  if  broken  to  the  saddle,  ten  or  fifteen. 

The  tariff  of  duties  is  the  same  as  at  Buenos  Ayres,  but  the  late 
reduction  of  thirty-three  per  cent,  during  the  blockade  did  not  extend 
to  this  place. 

The  Indians  that  are  accustomed  to  visit  this  place  (Carmen)  for 
the  purpose  of  war  or  trade  are  of  four  different  tribes,  viz.,  Pampas, 
Ancases,  Tehuiliches  or  Teheulehes,  and  Chilenos.  The  two  former 
occupy  the  territory  to  the  north  of  the  Rio  Negro  as  far  as  the  Rio 
Colorado.  The  Tehuiliches  are  from  the  mountains  to  the  south, 
and  the  Chilenos  from  the  southwest. 

During  the  infancy  of  the  settlement,  and  until  of  late  years,  these 
Indians  were  extremely  troublesome,  making  descents  upon  the  place, 
and  ravaging  the  outposts,  waylaying  all  who  were  not  on  their 
guard,  killing  them,  and  retreating  rapidly  on  their  wild  steeds,  with 
their  booty,  to  the  pampas  and  mountains.  The  Spaniards  frequently 
retaliated,  and  by  the  superiority  of  their  arms  and  discipline,  inflicted 
summary  punishment  on  them.  The  last  attack  of  the  Indians  was 


RIO  NEGRO. 


103 


made  in  1832,  when  they  met  with  such  an  overwhelming  defeat,  that 
they  have  not  ventured  to  make  another ;  yet  the  garrison  is  always 
kept  in  anxiety  for  fear  of  attacks. 

The  weapons  usual  in  their  warfare  are  a  long  lance  and  the 
hallos,  such  as  is  used  in  taking  the  ostrich  and  throwing  cattle,  which 
they  use  with  great  dexterity.  This  consists  of  a  thong  of  hide  four 
feet  in  length,  with  a  leaden  ball  at  each  end,  which  the  horseman 
grasps  in  the  middle,  and  gives  the  balls  a  rotary  motion  by  whirling 
them  above  his  head,  then  dashing  on  to  the  attack,  he  throws  it  when 
within  range  with  unerring  aim,  and  seldom  fails  to  disable  his 
enemy.  The  Indians  who  are  most  feared  are  the  Chilenos.  The 
Tehuiliches,  notwithstanding  their  immense  size,  are  considered  little 
better  than  cowards. 

All  the  information  gained  here  tended  to  confirm  the  general 
impression  that  the  Tehuiliches  or  Patagonians  are  above  the 
ordinary  height  of  men,  generally  above  six  feet ;  and  the  minister 
asserted  that  he  had  often  seen  them  above  seven  English  feet.  We 
had  not  any  personal  opportunity  to  verify  this  statement,  the  Indians 
being  only  in  the  habit  of  visiting  this  post  once  a  year,  to  obtain 
supplies,  viz.,  in  the  month  of  March,  at  which  time  a  vessel  usually 
visits  the  place. 

There  are  a  few  huts  or  toldos  forming  a  small  settlement  of  Indians 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  They  are  converted,  and  are  termed 
Indios  Mansos,  are  a  mixture  of  all  the  tribes,  and  so  much  changed 
in  habits  and  dress  from  their  former  condition  and  mode  of  life,  that 
an  accurate  idea  could  not  be  formed  of  their  natural  character. 
They  were  none  of  them  above  the  middle  height ;  their  limbs  were 
usually  full  and  well  formed ;  their  complexion  a  brownish  copper, 
with  coarse  straight  black  hair,  growing  very  low  on  the  forehead  : 
this  is  suffered  to  grow  long,  and  hangs  down  on  both  sides  of  the 
face,  adding  much  to  the  wildness  of  their  appearance.  Their  fore¬ 
heads  are  low  and  narrow  towards  the  top,  their  eyes  small,  black 
and  deep  set.  Some  were  observed  with  their  eyes  set,  Chinese- 
like.  The  resemblance  was  somewhat  increased  by  the  width 
of  the  face,  which  was  a  particular  characteristic.  The  nose  is 
usually  a  little  flattened  at  the  root,  and  wide  at  the  nostrils,  the 
lips  full,  and  the  chin  not  prominent.  The  expressions  of  their 
countenances  betoken  neither  intellect  nor  vivacity.  The  men  were 
generally  decked  out  in  tawdry  finery,  partly  after  the  Spanish 
fashion ;  the  women  had  only  the  chilipa  to  cover  their  nakedness. 


104 


RIO  NEGRO. 


Of  the  Ancases  very  little  appears  to  be  known  ;  they  live  towards 
the  north,  speak  a  peculiar  language,  and  are  inferior  to  the  rest  in 
stature. 

The  Chilenos  are  derived  from  the  western  side  of  the  continent, 
and  are  predatory  bands  of  the  great  Araucanian  nation. 

The  Peulches,  including  the  Pampas  and  Tehuiliches,  Falkner, 
in  his  account  of  this  country,  describes  as  inhabiting  the  portion 
south  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  and  to  the  east  of  the  Cordilleras ;  they 
are  scattered  over  the  vast  plains  of  the  interior.  Those  to  the  north  of 
the  Rio  Colorado  are  generally  known  under  the  name  of  the  Pampas 
Indians ;  they  call  themselves  Chechehets.  Those  to  the  south  of 
that  river  are  termed  Tehuiliches ;  they  inhabit  the  table  land  between 
the  Cordilleras,  and  the  desert  plains  of  the  coast. 

These  people  are  represented  as  of  gigantic  stature,  and  it  is  said 
by  the  residents,  that  those  from  the  south  are  generally  taller  than 
those  from  any  other  part,  and  Indians  are  said  to  have  been  met 
with  who  are  distinguished  for  their  gigantic  height  and  well-formed 
limbs,  hut  this  rests  on  vague  authority. 

Our  philologist  related  an  anecdote  of  a  young  Indian  who  had 
learned  the  Spanish  tongue,  whom  he  had  been  questioning  relative 
to  his  language,  in  order  to  obtain  a  certain  class  of  phrases.  After 
having  written  down  a  word,  in  repeating  it,  he  connected  it  with 
some  adjunct,  as  my  father,  his  house,  this  knife.  The  Indian  mis¬ 
took  his  meaning,  and  immediately  took  fire  at  the  supposed  insult, 
thinking  that  the  correctness  of  what  he  had  said  was  doubted,  and 
that  the  object  was  to  entrap  him  in  a  falsehood.  It  was  with  some 
difficulty  that  he  was  pacified. 

The  Guachos  and  Indians  are  of  course  good  horsemen,  being 
trained  to  it  from  their  infancy.  Indeed  they  may  be  said  to  live 
on  horseback,  and  it  is  very  seldom  that  they  are  seen  to  walk  any 
distance  however  short. 

Their  dress,  although  uncouth  and  ill-arranged,  is  comfortable,  and 
picturesque  when  they  are  on  horseback,  particularly  when  at  full 
speed  in  search  of  a  bullock  to  lasso.  The  ease  and  nonchalance 
with  which  a  Guacho  mounts  his  steed,  arranges  himself  in  the 
saddle,  quietly  trotting  off,  lasso  in  hand,  to  select  his  victim,  and 
detach  it  from  the  herd ;  then  the  eager  chase,  the  furious  speed  of 
the  horse,  the  flying  dress  of  the  Guacho,  with  upraised  arm  whirling 
his  lasso,  the  terror  of  the  animal,  the  throw  of  the  lasso,  and  instan¬ 
taneous  overthrow  of  the  bullock,  all  the  work  of  an  instant,  excited 


RIO  NEGRO. 


105 


both  our  admiration  and  astonishment.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  ani¬ 
mation  of  both  horse  and  rider  on  these  occasions. 


GUACHO. 


Mr.  Waldron,  our  purser,  made  an  endeavour  to  purchase  some 
vegetables  for  the  crews,  from  an  estancia  on  the  river  side,  of  which 
an  old  Spaniard  was  the  owner,  thus  affording  him  an  opportunity 
of  disposing  of  many  of  them.  But  the  conditions  were  that  they 
must  be  on  the  beach  in  a  few  hours,  which  was  ample  time  to  have 
dug  up  an  acre.  As  soon,  however,  as  he  learned  these  terms,  he 
shrugged  his  shoulders,  and  declared  the  thing  impossible,  took  down 
his  guitar,  seated  himself  in  front  of  his  house,  and  began  to  play  a 
lively  air,  which  his  two  sons  accompanied  with  their  voices. 

The  coast  and  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Negro  are  composed  of  sand¬ 
hills  of  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  in  height,  covered  with  a  scattered 
growth  of  grass,  which  prevents  the  sand  from  blowing  away. 
These  gradually  rise  to  the  height  of  one  hundred  feet,  except  to 
the  southward  of  the  river,  where  the  bank  is  perpendicular ;  at  this 
height  the  ground  stretches  away  in  a  level  prairie,  without  a  single 
tree  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  scene,  and  affords  a  view  as  unin¬ 
terrupted  as  the  ocean. 

The  apparent  hills  along  the  river  are  found  to  be  no  more  than 
the  face  of  the  excavation  made  or  worn  down  by  the  river,  forming 
the  valley  through  which  it  flows. 

The  only  verdure  on  the  prairie  is  a  small  shrub,  which  when  the 
lower  branches  are  trimmed  off  serves  a  useful  purpose.  From  an 
optical  illusion,  (the  effect  of  refraction,)  they  appear,  when  thus 
trimmed,  as  large  as  an  ordinary  sized  apple  tree,  and  one  is  not  a 

27 


VOL.  I. 


106 


RIO  NEGRO. 


little  surprised  to  find  them,  on  a  near  approach,  no  higher  than 
the  surrounding  shrubs,  four  or  five  feet.  Shrubs  are  trimmed 
in  this  manner  at  distances  of  about  half  a  mile  from  each  other, 
and  are  used  as  guide-posts  on  the  prairie.  A  similar  optical  effect 
is  spoken  of  by  travellers  on  the  steppes  of  Russia. 

Game  is  most  plentiful,  consisting  of  deer,  guanacoes  and  carias, 
cassowaries,  partridges,  bustards,  ducks,  &c.  Armadillos  were  com¬ 
mon,  and  the  ostrich  was  frequently  seen ;  porcupines  are  said  also  to 
be  found.  The  carias  were  seen  running  about  in  single  file,  with  a 
sort  of  halting  gait. 

The  soil  of  the  Campos  was  mostly  a  mixture  of  clay,  sand  and 
small  pebbles,  but  is  destitute  of  vegetable  mould.  They  have  the 
practice  of  burning  the  prairies  in  order  to  produce  a  new  crop  of 
sweet  and  nutritious  grass  for  the  cattle.  The  rock  of  the  cliff,  and 
along  the  river  where  it  can  be  seen,  is  a  soft,  gray  sandstone,  in 
some  places  so  friable  as  to  be  easily  crumbled  between  the  fingers, 
while  other  specimens  are  of  sufficient  hardness  for  building  stone. 
The  stratification  is  perfectly  horizontal. 

The  width  of  the  river  is  less  than  a  third  of  a  mile ;  it  has  a  rapid 
current,  and  a  large  body  of  water  is  carried  by  it  to  the  ocean.  The 
ordinary  tide  is  about  eight  feet,  and  the  spring  tides  fourteen  feet. 
The  current  is  mostly  downward,  although  the  tide  is  felt  about  ten 
miles  above  its  mouth.  The  ebb  sets  off  shore  some  three  or  four 
miles,  and  may  be  known  from  the  discoloration  of  the  water,  which 
just  without  the  bar  is  comparatively  fresh.  The  depth  at  high  water 
on  the  bar  is  two  and  a  half  fathoms,  and  the  bar  is  a  changing  one. 

No  springs  were  observed  in  the  vicinity,  or  any  trace  of  running 
water  except  in  the  river.  The  water  from  the  rains  collects  in  the 
depressions,  and  forms  large  ponds  covering  acres  of  ground,  but  only 
a  few  inches  in  depth. 

The  time  of  our  visit  corresponded  in  season  to  our  midsummer 
months,  and  the  mean  temperature  was  found  to  be  73°.  The 
winters  are  represented  as  very  mild ;  snow  does  fall,  but  it  disappears 
in  a  few  hours.  Ice  is  seldom  seen,  though  frosts  appear  to  be  fre¬ 
quent  in  the  winter.  January,  February,  March,  and  April  are  the 
least  tempestuous  months. 

The  vegetation  of  the  upland  bears  the  marks  of  long  continued 
droughts,  in  an  absence  of  trees,  and  the  roots  of  plants  penetrating 
vertically.  The  stunted  appearance  of  the  shrubs,  branching  from 
their  base,  their  branches  dense,  rigid  and  impenetrable,  usually 


RIO  NEGRO. 


107 


growing  into  spines,  the  smallness  of  the  leaves  and  their  textnre, 
which  is  dry,  coriaceons,  and  hardly  deciduous,  together  with  the 
general  brown  aspect  of  the  landscape,  all  denote  a  vegetation  adapted 
to  endure  or  escape  drought. 

There  was  formerly  some  trade  here  with  Boston  and  New  York 
in  hides,  horns,  bones  and  tallow,  in  exchange  for  cotton  and  woollen 
goods  of  a  warm  fabric,  hardware,  crockery,  hoots  and  shoes,  a  few 
articles  of  furniture,  spirits  and  tobacco,  all  of  which  are  bartered  at 
an  enormous  profit.  Considerable  quantities  of  salt  are  shipped 
round  to  Buenos  Ayres.  Vessels  discharging  or  taking  in  a  cargo 
here,  pay  twelve  and  a  half  cents  per  ton.  Y essels  stopping  without 
discharging  pay  half  duty ;  vessels  for  refreshments  are  permitted  to 
remain  twenty -five  days  free  of  duty,  after  that  time  they  pay  half 
duty.  This  duty  includes  pilotage  and  all  other  charges ;  but  the 
governor  seems  to  have  the  power  to  exact  the  full  duty  whenever  he 
thinks  proper. 

Sarsaparilla  abounds  in  this  section  of  the  country. 

As  the  bar  is  a  shifting  one,  no  permanent  directions  can  be  given, 
nor  can  any  survey  be  relied  on.  The  annual  freshets  and  gales  of 
wind  that  take  place  from  May  to  October,  often  change  the  position 
of  the  bar.  According  to  the  pilots,  it  had  recently  undergone  a 
change,  and  there  was  three  feet  less  water  on  it  than  had  been 
before.  Even  the  direction  had  been  altered  from  southeast  by 
south,  to  southeast  by  compass. 

The  week  we  lay  off  the  bar,  we  experienced  much  fog,  and  found 
the  current  strong,  two  and  a  half  knots  on  the  flood  and  ebb.  The 
former  runs  to  the  southwest,  the  latter  in  the  contrary  direction. 
The  roadstead  may  be  considered  a  very  unsafe  anchorage  except  in 
the  fine  season.  The  gales  come  from  the  southeast,  with  a  heavy 
sea.  By  taking  advantage  of  the  flood  tide,  and  standing  off  to  the 
southward  and  eastward,  there  will  be  found  little  difficulty  in  getting 
off  shore,  to  avoid  the  danger  a  vessel  would  be  exposed  to. 

While  engaged  at  this  place,  I  felt  great  uneasiness  for  the  safety 
of  the  boats,  the  officers  employed  having  but  little  experience  in 
managing  them.  The  fogs  and  strong  current  rendered  it  extremely 
difficult  to  proceed  rapidly  with  our  survey,  many  of  the  boats  were 
detained  out  over  night,  and  others  reached  the  ship  with  difficulty. 

On  the  night  of  the  30th  of  January,  the  weather  assumed  a 
threatening  appearance.  The  wind  changed  to  the  eastward,  with  a 
falling  barometer  ;  the  sea  rising,  accompanied  by  a  heavy  fog,  with 


108 


RIO  NEGRO. 

the  absence  of  three  boats,  caused  me  much  anxiety.  During  the 
night  the  wind  increased  to  a  gale  from  the  southeast.  At  daylight 
the  Peacock  made  signal  that  the  boats  had  reached  her  in  safety. 
It  had  now  became  necessary  for  the  squadron  to  leave  this  dangerous 
anchorage.  Taking  advantage  of  the  tide,  we  effected  it  without  diffi¬ 
culty,  getting  off  under  our  storm-sails;  three  of  the  vessels  were 
obliged  to  slip  their  cables.  The  barometer  during  the  gale  fell  to 
29-600°,  which  was  lower  than  we  had  seen  it  since  our  departure 
from  the  United  States.  Towards  evening,  when  the  weather  mode¬ 
rated,  we  again  sought  our  anchorage.  One  of  the  boats  returned  to 
the  Vincennes  with  but  half  her  crew;  the  rest,  it  was  reported  to 
me,  had  deserted.  Two  boats  with  officers  were  accordingly  des¬ 
patched  for  the  purpose  of  apprehending  them,  as  soon  as  we 
anchored.  The  men  were  found  by  the  Guachos  without  difficulty. 
They  accounted  for  their  absence,  that  they  had,  while  waiting 
on  the  beach,  been  enticed  into  the  interior  in  chase  of  some  game, 
and  the  fog  coming  on  suddenly,  they  had  lost  their  way,  missed 
the  boat,  and  were  obliged  to  pass  the  night  on  the  prairie.  The 
boats  in  returning  to  the  ships  narrowly  escaped  accident  in  passing 
through  the  rollers  on  the  bar,  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  they 
reached  the  ship  at  midnight.  Their  lengthened  absence  caused  no 
little  anxiety  for  their  safety  to  all  on  board. 

Dr.  Pickering  on  this  occasion  at  my  request  visited  a  cave  he  had 
mentioned  to  me  as  existing,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  its 
temperature,  believing  it  would  give  some  more  accurate  information 
as  to  the  mean  temperature  of  the  climate  at  this  season.  It  was 
found  to  he  70°,  in  a  horizontal  hole  twelve  feet  from  the  surface. 

On  the  1st  February,  the  Peacock,  Porpoise  and  tenders,  were 
engaged  looking  for  their  anchors ;  the  two  latter  regained  theirs,  but 
the  former  was  lost,  the  buoy  having  sunk. 

El  Carmen  may  be  termed  a  convict  settlement  ;  for  culprits 
and  exiles  are  sent  here  from  Buenos  Ayres.  The  garrison  is 
composed  of  about  two  hundred  soldiers,  principally  African  and 
Brazilian  slaves  brought  here  during  the  Banda  Oriental  war. 
Among  them  we  found  a  person  who  called  himself  an  American, 
from  Rhode  Island,  by  name  Benjamin  Harden,  junior,  who  was 
desirous  of  claiming  our  protection.  He  was  of  small  stature, 
slender  make,  and  a  light  complexion,  with  a  mild  expression  of 
countenance,  and  about  thirty  years  of  age.  His  story  was,  that  he 
had  been  by  chance  in  Buenos  Ayres  at  the  time  when  the  govern- 


RIO  NEGRO. 


109 


ment  was  in  want  of  troops,  and  that  he  was  seized  and  compelled  to 
enlist.  On  inquiring,  however,  of  the  governor,  it  proved  that  he 
had  been  engaged  in  a  riot  at  Buenos  Ayres,  in  which  he  had  killed 
two  or  three  men,  and  committed  other  outrages,  for  which  he  had 
been  condemned  to  death,  but  on  the  intercession  of  a  friend,  the 
sentence  was  commuted  to  that  of  exile  as  a  soldier  at  this  place. 
His  farther  history  is,  that  not  long  since  he  formed  the  plan  of 
deserting  with  another  convict,  by  seizing  an  English  trading  vessel, 
in  the  absence  of  the  captain  and  part  of  the  crew,  and  making  off 
with  her,  which  he  was  fully  able  to  accomplish,  being  an  excellent 
sailor.  The  night  however  before  the  day  fixed  on  for  the  execution 
of  this  plan,  he  got  intoxicated,  discovered  the  whole  design,  and 
received  the  severe  punishment  of  twelve  hundred  lashes  at  three 
different  times. 

On  the  morning  of  the  departure  of  the  schooner,  he  effected  his 
escape  from  the  town,  and  swam  off  to  the  schooner.  He  was  re¬ 
cognised  by  an  officer,  who  knew  his  history  in  part,  namely,  that  he 
had  become  a  robber  and  a  murderer,  and  had  been  an  outcast  from 
his  father’s  house  for  fifteen  years.  He  was  told  he  could  not  be 
received  on  board,  and  a  boat  landed  him  again.  . 

On  the  3d  of  February  we  got  under  way,  and  were  glad  to  leave 
so  exposed  and  unpleasant  an  anchorage. 

On  the  4th  and  5th,  we  experienced  a  heavy  sea  from  the  south¬ 
ward,  with  much  wind. 

Finding  the  tenders  were  much  distressed  while  keeping  company 
with  the  ships  in  the  heavy  sea,  I  made  signal  to  them  to  make  the 
best  of  their  wray  to  Orange  Harbour,  judging  that  I  should  thus  save 
much  time,  as  well  as  great  wear  and  tear  to  the  vessels :  they  would, 
also,  by  arriving  before  the  squadron,  materially  aid  it  by  acting  as 
pilots,  in  case  we  should  need  such  guidance.  On  the  6th  the 
weather  began  to  moderate,  and  the  wind  to  haul  to  the  westward. 
Shortly  afterwards  we  had  strong  winds  accompanied  with  rain. 
The  lower  scud  was  seen  passing  rapidly  from  the  northward  and 
westward,  whilst  the  upper  scud  was  moving  from  the  south-south- 
west.  We  found  the  current  setting  to  the  north-by-east,  about 
fifteen  miles  in  twenty-four  hours. 

On  the  8th  we  had  a  sudden  fall  of  the  barometer  to  29-500  in.,  but 
without  any  change  in  the  weather,  except  fog  and  mist.  The  wind 
was  from  the  west-northwest.  On  the  11th,  the  wind  hauled  to  the 
southwest,  when  the  barometer  began  to  rise,  and  the  weather  to 

28 


VOL.  I. 


110 


RIO  NEGRO. 


clear  off.  On  the  12th,  the  barometer  acain  fell  to  29-500  in.,  which 
brought  thick  weather  and  rain,  with  a  heavy  bank  of  cumuli  to  the 
southward  and  westward, — a  precursor  of  bad  weather.  In  a  few 
hours  we  had  heavy  squalls,  with  hail  and  rain,  the  weather  becoming 
sensibly  colder.  Temperature  46°.  The  next  morning  we  made 
Staten  Land,  and  soon  afterwards  Cape  St.  Diego,  Terra  del  Fuego. 
The  land  was  broken,  high,  and  desolate.  The  Straits  of  Le  Maire 
were  before  us :  we  were  just  in  time  to  take  the  tide,  and  with  a  fair 
wind  we  sailed  rapidly  through  the  strait,  passing  its  whirls  and 
eddies,  now  quite  smooth,  but  in  a  short  time  to  become  vexed  and 
fretted  by  the  returning  tide.  The  squadron  glided  along  with  all  its 
canvass  spread  to  the  breeze,  scarcely  making  a  ripple  under  the 
bows.  The  day  was  a  remarkably  tine  one  for  this  climate,  and  the 
sight  beautiful,  notwithstanding  the  desolate  appearance  of  the  shores. 

I  cannot  see  why  there  should  be  any  objection  to  the  passage 
through  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  as  it  gives  a  vessel  a  much  better 
chance  of  making  the  passage  round  the  cape  quickly.  No  danger 
exists  here  that  I  know  of.  A  vessel  with  the  tide  will  pass  through 
in  a  few  hours.  As  for  the  “race  and  dangerous  sea,”  I  have  fully 
experienced  it  in  the  Porpoise,  on  the  side  of  Staten  Land ;  and  am 
well  satisfied  that  any  vessel  may  pass  safely  through  it,  at  all  times 
and  in  all  weathers,  or  if  not  so  disposed,  may  wait  a  few  hours  until 
the  sea  subsides,  and  the  tide  changes.  We  were  only  three  hours  in 
passing  through.  We  entered  the  straits  with  studding-sails  set,  and 
left  them  under  close-reefed  topsails.  Squalls  issuing  from  the  ravines 
were  frequent  and  severe,  and  were  accompanied  occasionally  by  a 
little  snow.  The  barometer  had  fallen  to  29-250  in.  Contrary  to  my 
expectations  we  had  on  the  next  day  delightful  weather,  with  light 
and  variable  winds  from  the  eastward,  and  at  times  calms.  This 
gave  me  an  opportunity  of  examining  the  currents.  Many  rips  were 
observed,  and  it  was  found,  as  the  vessels  were  on  different  sides  of 
them,  they  were  set  in  opposite  directions.  The  current,  on  the 
outside  of  a  line  drawn  from  Cape  Good  Success  to  Cape  Horn,  sets 
to  the  eastward,  and  vessels  sailing  to  the  westward  would  greatly 
facilitate  their  passage  by  beating  within  this  line,  taking  advantage 
of  the  tide  on  its  ebb,  and  passing  between  the  Hermit  Islands  and 
the  main  through  Nassau  Bay,  if  the  time  is  at  all  favourable  for  it. 
In  case  of  necessity,  they  may  obtain  good  anchorage. 

To  the  eastward  of  Cape  Horn  I  obtained  a  sounding  with  the 
deep-sea  thermometer  to  the  depth,  of  four  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms. 


RIO  NEGRO. 


Ill 


The  temperature  at  the  surface  was  44°,  and  when  the  thermometer 
came  up  it  showed  but  28°.  The  sounding  was  perpendicular,  and 
the  thermometer  had  been  examined  by  two  or  three  persons  before 
going  down,  so  that  we  were  assured  there  was  no  mistake.  So 
remarkable  a  circumstance  surprised  me  not  a  little.  It  was  too 
late  to  attempt  another  sounding  that  night,  and  I  regretted  in  the 
morning  to  find  myself  on  soundings  in  eighty  fathoms  water.  The 
temperature  at  that  depth  did  not  fall  below  46°,  whilst  at  the  surface 
it  was  49°. 

The  coast  of  Terra  del  Fuego  presents  the  same  general  character 
throughout,  of  high,  broken,  and  rugged  land,  which  appears  of  a 
uniform  elevation  of  about  one  thousand  or  fifteen  hundred  feet,  with 
here  and  there  a  peak  or  mountain  covered  with  snow,  rising  to  some 
four  or  five  thousand  feet.  The  whole  wears  a  sombre  and  desolate 
aspect.  It  may  be  said  to  be  iron-bound,  with  many  high  and 
isolated  rocks,  that  have  become  detached  from  the  land  apparently 
by  the  wear  of  ages.  Numerous  unexpected  indentations  occur  all 
along  the  coast,  many  of  them  forming  harbours  for  small  vessels, 
and  some  of  them  very  safe  ones. 

On  Captain  King’s  report  of  Orange  Harbour,  I  had  determined  to 
make  that  our  place  of  rendezvous  previous  to  our  first  Antarctic  trip, 
and  accordingly  all  the  vessels  were  ordered  to  proceed  thither.  We 
had  his  directions,  although  we  were  without  the  chart.  I  felt 
confident  I  might  repose  full  reliance  in  them,  from  his  well-known 
ability  ;  and  I  now  offer  an  acknowledgment  of  their  value  and 
general  accuracy. 

The  channels  formed  by  the  islands  are  deep,  with  no  anchorage 
except  in  the  coves  near  the  rocks  ;  but  a  vessel  is  generally  safe  in 
passing  through,  as  there  are  no  dangers  but  those  which  show 
themselves,  and  wherever  rocks  are,  kelp  will  be  found  growing  upon 
them.  To  pass  through  the  kelp  without  previous  examination  is 
not  safe.  It  borders  all  the  shores  of  the  bays  and  harbours,  and 
effectually  points  out  the  shoal  water. 

It  was  my  intention  to  pass  within  or  to  the  north  of  the  Hermit 
Islands  into  Nassau  Bay,  but  the  wind  did  not  permit  our  doing  so. 
This  bay  forms  a  large  indenture  in  the  southern  coast  of  Terra 
del  Fuego,  a  few  miles  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Horn;  it  is  about 
thirty  miles  east  and  west,  by  eight  miles  north  and  south,  and  is 
somewhat  protected  from  the  heavy  seas  by  the  Hermit  Islands. 
Around  the  bay  are  found  some  harbours,  sheltered  by  small  islands, 
and  surrounded  by  precipitous  rocky  shores,  with  occasionally  a  small 


112 


RIO  NEGRO. 


ravine  forming  a  cove,  into  which  streams  of  pure  water  discharge 
themselves,  affording  a  safe  and  convenient  landing-place  for  boats. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  on  board  the  Porpoise,  Lieutenant 
Dale  observed  a  remarkable  parhelion,  of  which  he  made  the  annexed 
sketch. 


PARHELION 

The  upper  is  the  true  sun,  the  lower  the  mock  sun.  They  were  of 
equal  size,  and  nearly  of  the  same  brightness.  The  latter  was  about 
a  diameter  below  the  former.  The  sun’s  altitude  was  8°.  At  the 
same  altitude,  and  21°  40'  south  of  it,  was  another  mock  sun,  showing 
prismatic  colours  towards  the  sun,  and  with  a  brush  of  light  in 
opposition.  No  halo  or  arc  was  seen.  The  whole  disappeared  in 
about  fifteen  minutes.  The  masthead  temperature  was  not  noted 
on  board  the  Porpoise;  but  according  to  that  of  the  Vincennes, 
there  was  a  difference  of  5°  in  temperature  at  the  time  between 
the  deck  and  the  masthead,  showing  a  state  of  atmosphere  favourable 
to  this  phenomenon.  Barometer  29-55  in.,  temperature  42°. 

In  passing  the  cape  the  weather  was  delightful.  We  sailed  within 
two  miles  of  this  dreaded  promontory,  and  could  not  but  admire  its 
worn  and  weather-beaten  sides,  that  have  so  long  been  invested  with 
all  the  terrors  that  can  beset  sailors.  Here  we  first  encountered  the 
long  swell  of  the  Pacific,  but  there  was  scarcely  a  ripple  on  its 
surface.  Although  the  landscape  was  covered  with  snow,  the  lowest 
temperature  we  had  yet  experienced  was  40°  Fahrenheit. 

The  Porpoise,  just  before  night,  made  signal  that  she  wished  to 
speak  us,  and  sent  on  board  a  tub  filled  with  a  large  medusa,  for 


RIO  NEGRO. 


113 


examination  by  the  naturalists.  Its  dimensions  were  nine  feet  in 
circumference;  the  brachise  seven  feet  long.  It  proved  to  be  the 
Acalopha  medusa  pelagia  of  Cuvier.  m  ^ 

On  the  17th  of  February,  we  had  an 
extraordinary  degree  of  mirage  or  re¬ 
fraction  of  the  Peacock,  exhibiting  three 
images,  two  of  which  were  upright  and 
one  inverted.  They  were  all  extremely 
well  defined.  The  temperature  on  deck 
was  54°,  that  at  masthead  62°.  A  vessel 
that  was  not  in  sight  from  the  Vincennes’ 
decks,  became  visible,  as  in  the  annexed 


% 

m  p 

J&L- 


&A. 


sketch  ;  the  land  at  the  same  time  was  much  distorted,  both  vertically 
and  horizontally.  Barometer  stood  at  29-62  in. ;  hygrometer  10°. 

On  board  the  Peacock,  similar  appearances  were  observed  of  the 
^  Vincennes  and  Porpoise.  There  was,  how- 

jMilf  blBC;.  ever,  a  greater  difference  between  the  mast¬ 

head  temperature  and  that  on  deck,  the 
thermometer  standing  at  62°  at  masthead, 
while  on  deck  it  was  but  50°,  being  a  dif¬ 
ference  of  12° ;  that  on  board  the  Vincennes 
differed  only  8°.  The  sketches  were  taken 
about  the  same  time  :  that  made  of  the  Pea¬ 
cock  on  board  the  Vincennes  it  will  be  seen 
was  the  most  elongated. 

We  continued  beating  into  the  passage 
between  the  Plermit  Islands  and  False  Cape 
Horn,  and  found  great  difficulty  in  passing  Point  Lort,  from  the 
very  strong  outward  set  of  the  tide,  which  we  found  to  run  with  a 
velocity  of  five  miles  an  hour.  We  were  not  able  to  make  way 
against  it,  though  the  log  gave  that  rate  of  sailing.  After  beating 
about  in  this  channel  a  long  and  dark  night,  with  all  hands  up,  we 
made  sail  at  daylight,  and  at  half-past  6  a.  m.  anchored  in  Orange 
Harbour.  Here  we  found  the  Relief  and  tenders,  all  well. 


VOL.  I. 


29 


114  RIO  NEGRO. 

The  Relief,  it  will  he  remembered,  was  left  by  the  boats  at  the 
mouth  of  Rio  Harbour,  on  the  19th  December.  Lieutenant-Comman¬ 
dant  Long  found  it  necessary  to  come  to  anchor  before  they  cleared 
Raza  Island,  in  consequence  of  its  falling  calm,  and  the  flood  tide 
drifting  them  in  towards  the  harbour.  The  next  day  they  took  their 
departure,  and  with  a  northerly  wind  steered  on  their  course  to  the 
southward,  with  hazy  weather. 

On  the  22d  they  experienced  a  current  of  twenty  miles  to  the 
eastward. 

The  barometer  stood  lower  than  had  been  observed  before,  29-79  in. 
The  weather  had  the  appearance  of  a  change,  the  wind  hauling  to 
the  southward  by  the  west,  and  then  to  the  southeast  quarter,  with 
clear  and  pleasant  weather. 

The  26th,  the  sea  was  extremely  luminous  in  large  patches;  tem¬ 
perature  of  the  water  73°. 

On  the  27th,  in  longitude  50°  19'  W.,  latitude  35°  11'  S.,  being 
three  hundred  miles  off  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Plata,  they  found  the 
water  very  much  discoloured;  its  temperature  had  fallen  to  70°;  no 
bottom  was  found  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  of  line.  Three 
sail  of  American  whalers  were  in  sight,  one  of  which  they  spoke. 

The  28th,  the  current  was  found  setting  to  the  east-southeast, 
twelve  miles. 

The  29th,  in  latitude  38°  54'  S.,  longitude  54°  00'  W.,  the  water 
was  still  much  discoloured,  its  temperature  having  fallen  to  56° ;  air 
66°.  The  ship  was  set  southwest  forty-six  miles  in  twenty-four 
hours.  No  bottom  was  obtained  with  the  deep-sea  line.  On  this 
and  the  next  day  the  ship  was  surrounded  by  large  numbers  of 
birds,  consisting  of  albatross,  black  petrel,  &c.  Shoals  of  por¬ 
poises  and  seals,  and  large  patches  of  kelp,  were  met  with.  The 
current  was  now  found  to  have  changed  to  north-northeast,  fourteen 
miles. 

On  the  31st  they  had  reached  the  latitude  of  40°  S.  Many  tide- 
rips  were  here  observed,  and  the  water  continued  very  much  dis¬ 
coloured,  having  the  appearance  of  shoal  river-water.  Although  the 
chart  indicated  bottom  at  fifty-five  fathoms,  a  long  distance  to  the 
eastward,  none  was  found  with  one  hundred  and  seventy  fathoms. 
The  current  was  felt  setting  north  69°  east,  thirty-six  miles ;  water 
fell  to  55°,  air  59°. 

On  the  1st  of  January  they  obtained  soundings  in  fifty -five 
fathoms,  fine  yellow  and  black  sand;  this  day  there  occurred  a 


RIO  NEGRO. 


1.15 


thunder-storm,  with  rain  and  hail.  The  current  was  north.  49°  east, 
thirty-one  miles;  temperature  of  the  water  54°,  that  of  the  air  64°. 

On  the  2d,  latitude  41°  24'  S.,  longitude  58°  40'  W.,  the  wind  was 
from  the  northward  and  westward,  and  was  accompanied  by  hazy 
weather;  the  temperature  of  the  water  rose  to  58°,  air  66°.  The  cold 
water  which  had  been  passed  through  had  continued  for  a  distance  of 
one  hundred  and  sixty  miles;  the  current  was  found,  by  anchoring  a 
boat,  to  set  south-half-west  three-fourths  of  a  mile  per  hour.  The  same 
kind  of  soundings  continued  ;  some  large  dark  spots  were  discovered 
in  the  water,  but  on  examination  they  proved  to  be  shoals  of  small  fish 
resembling  herring.  Immense  flocks  of  sea  birds  were  still  met  with. 

The  current  from  the  4th  till  the  7th  was  setting  northeast-by-east, 
ten  to  twenty  miles  a  day ;  water  and  air  continued  at  about  60°. 

On  the  5th,  in  dredging,  they  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  number  of 
interesting  shells,  from  deep  water. 

On  the  9th  they  discovered  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  near  Point 
Lobos.  It  appeared  hvw  at  first  sight,  but,  on  approaching  it,  showed 
a  level  table-land,  between  four  and  five  hundred  feet  high.  At  eight 
miles  south  of  Cape  Raza,  latitude  44°  20'  S.,  longitude  65°  06'  W., 
the  water  was  seen  to  break  moderately,  in  the  direction  of  east-north¬ 
east  and  west-southwest;  a  boat  was  lowered,  and  an  officer  sent  to 
examine  the  shoal :  the  least  depth  of  water  found  was  fourteen 
fathoms. 

On  the  10th  they  rounded  Cape  St.  Joseph’s.  The  country 
was  destitute  of  trees ;  only  a  few  shrubs  were  seen :  it  appeared 
covered  with  a  tall  grass,  and  the  only  living  thing  seen  was  a  herd 
of  guanacoes. 

During-  the  sail  down  the  coast  the  dredge  continued  to  be  used, 
and  with  success,  and  many  interesting  objects  were  obtained ;  among 
them,  terebratulas,  chitons,  corallines,  sponges,  many  small  and  large 
crustaceous  animals,  and  large  volutes  (Cymbiola  Magellanica.) 

On  the  12th  they  again  discovered  land  to  the  southward  and 
westward,  which  afterwards  proved  to  be  Cape  Three  Points. 
Captain  King’s  remarks,  relative  to  the  apex  of  one  of  the  hills,  as 
not  being  visible  to  the  northeast,  was  found  to  be  erroneous  :  it  was 
distinctly  seen  on  board  the  Relief  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  headlands  of  the  coast,  showing  as  it 
does  above  the  fiat  table-land  that  is  immediately  behind  it. 

There  is  a  shoal  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Three  Points,  which 
Lieutenant-Commandant  Long,  after  anchoring,  sent  three  boats  to 


116 


RIO  NEGRO. 


examine.  The  least  water  found  upon  it  was  seven  fathoms ;  this 
was  believed  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  Byron  Shoal. 

The  Bellaco  Bock  was  seen  in  latitude  48°  30'  S.,  longitude  66°  07' 
11"  W. ;  there  is  another  rock,  bearing  S.  17°  E.  (true),  about  nine 
or  ten  miles  distant,  latitude  48°  38'  44"  S.,  longitude  66°  03'  53''  W.; 
this  last  rock  was  found  to  correspond  in  position  with  the  Bellaco 
Bock  of  Nodales.  It  would  seem,  therefore,  that  there  are  two  rocks, 
and  that  the  one  given  by  Captain  Stokes  is  not  the  true  Bellaco,  but 
that  it  lies  in  the  place  assigned  it  by  Nodales  in  1619  ;  it  is  probable 
that  the  Belief  is  the  first  vessel  that  has  verified  the  existence  of  both. 
To  account  for  this  discrepancy,  it  is  possible  that  the  true  Bellaco 
was  covered  with  the  tide  when  Captain  Stokes  passed  that  part  of 
the  coast.  At  their  anchorage  the  tide  was  sweeping  past  them  at  a 
furious  rate ;  they  had  been  much  affected  by  it  for  the  last  few  days, 
and  had,  on  the  various  trials  they  had  made,  found  it  setting  in 
various  directions,  according  as  the  flood  or  ebb  prevailed. 

At  meridian  the  same  day  they  were  off  Port  St.  Julian.  Lieu¬ 
tenant-Commandant  Long  thinks  the  vicinity  of  Watchman’s  Cape 
ought  to  be  avoided,  from  the  strong  currents  that  exist  near  it. 

On  the  19th  they  made  Cape  Virgins,  having  kept  along  the  coast 
until  then,  in  from  forty  to  sixty  fathoms  water,  with  bottom  the  same 
as  before  described. 

On  the  21st  they  passed  Cape  St.  Diego  with  a  strong  northwest 
wind,  which  gradually  moderated  and  fell  calm  off  Good  Success 
Bay.  It  was  deemed  prudent  to  wait  until  the  threatening  appear¬ 
ance  of  the  weather  subsided,  and  at  1  p.  m.,  they  anchored  in  Good 
Success  Bay. 

The  Belief  had  an  opportunity  of  proving  the  positions  and  sailing 
directions  of  Captain  King,  B.  N.,  and  it  affords  me  great  pleasure  to 
say  that  all  his  observations  tend  to  show  the  accuracy  of  the  positions 
and  the  care  with  which  that  officer  has  compiled  his  sailing  directions. 

No  navigator  frequenting  this  coast,  or  passing  round  Cape  Horn, 
should  be  without  the  sailing  directions  for  East  and  West  Patagonia, 
and  he  will  prize  them  as  highly  valuable  after  he  has  once  used 
them.  The  admirable  surveys  and  exertions  of  this  officer  and  those 
under  him  on  this  coast  entitle  him  to  the  rewards  of  his  country,  as 
well  as  the  thanks  of  the  civilized  world. 

The  day  they  landed,  no  natives  were  seen,  but  many  marks  of 
a  recent  visit  were  evident  on  the  beach  and  in  the  deserted  huts. 
On  the  morning  of  the  22d,  at  daylight,  the  natives  appeared  on  the 


RIO  NEGRO. 


117 


beach,  shouting  to  them  to  land.  Lieutenant-Commandant  Long 
delayed  his  departure  for  a  few  hours,  and  landed  with  a  number  of 
the  officers.  As  the  boats  approached  the  shore,  the  natives  began 
their  shouting,  and  advanced  towards  them  on  their  landing  without 
fear,  exhibiting  a  pleasant  air,  and  apparently  with  every  feeling  of 
confidence :  they  were  all  unarmed.  An  old  man,  who  was  the  chief, 
came  forward  to  salute  them,  first  by  patting  his  own  breast  several 
times,  and  then  that  of  each  individual  of  the  party,  making  use  of 
the  word  cu-char-lie ,  dwelling  on  the  first  syllable,  and  accenting  the 
last,  in  a  whining  tone  of  voice.  The  meaning  of  cu-char-lie  it  was 
impossible  to  divine,  for  it  was  used  for  every  thing.  After  this  cere¬ 
mony  they  returned  to  the  thicket,  and  brought  forth  their  bows  and 
arrows.  These  people  were  admirable  mimics,  and  would  repeat  all 
kinds  of  sounds,  including  words,  with  great  accuracy :  the  imitation 
was  often  quite  ridiculous.  They  were  naked,  with  the  exception  of 
a  guanacoe-skin,  which  covered  them  from  the  shoulders  to  the  knees. 

Mr.  Agate’s  drawing  of  one  of  these  Patagonians,  faces  the  first 
page  of  this  chapter. 

The  party  of  natives  wTas  seventeen  in  number,  and  with  a  few 
exceptions,  they  were  above  the  European  height.  The  chief,  who 
was  the  oldest  man  among  them,  was  under  fifty  years  of  age,  and 
of  comparatively  low  stature ;  his  son  was  one  of  the  tallest,  and  above 
six  feet  in  height.  They  had  good  figures  and  pleasant-looking  coun¬ 
tenances,  low  foreheads,  and  high  cheek-bones,  with  broad  faces,  the 
lower  part  projecting;  their  hair  was  coarse  and  cut  short  on  the 
crown,  leaving  a  narrow  border  of  hair  hanging  down ;  over  this  they 
wore  a  kind  of  cap  or  band  of  skin  or  woollen  yarn.  The  front  teeth 
of  all  of  them  were  very  much  worn,  more  apparent,  however,  in  the 
old  than  in  the  young.  On  one  foot  they  wore  a  rude  skin  sandal. 

Many  of  them  had  their  faces  painted  in  red  and  black  stripes, 
with  clay,  soot,  and  ashes.  Their  whole  appearance,  together  with 
their  inflamed  and  sore  eyes,  was  filthy  and  disgusting.  They  were 
thought  by  the  officers  more  nearly  to  approach  to  the  Patagonians 
than  any  other  natives,  and  were  supposed  to  be  a  small  tribe  who 
visit  this  part  of  Terra  del  Fuego  in  the  summer  months ;  they  were 
entirely  different  from  the  Petcherais,  whom  we  afterwards  saw  at 
Orange  Harbour. 

None  of  their  women  or  children  were  seen,  but  they  were  thought 
to  be  not  far  distant  in  the  wood,  as  they  objected  to  any  of  our 
people  going  towards  it,  and  showed  much  alarm  when  guns  were 

30 


VOL.  I. 


118 


RIO  NEGRO. 


pointed  in  that  direction.  They  seemed  to  have  a  knowledge  of  fire¬ 
arms,  which  they  called  eu,  or  spirit;  and  kai-eu ,  which  they  fre¬ 
quently  uttered  with  gestures,  was  thought  to  indicate  their  Great 
Spirit,  or  God. 


They  had  little  apparent  curiosity,  and  nothing  seemed  to  attract 
or  cause  them  surprise ;  their  principal  characteristic  seemed  to  be 
jealousy.  Though  they  are  a  simple  race,  they  are  not  wanting  in 
cunning ;  arid  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  they  could  be  prevailed 
upon  to  part  with  their  bows  and  arrows  in  trade,  which  they  however 
did,  after  asking  permission  from  their  chief;  this  was  always  neces¬ 
sary  for  them  to  obtain  before  closing  a  bargain.  They  have  had 
communication  frequently  before  with  Europeans;  pieces  of  many 
articles  of  European  manufacture  were  seen  in  their  possession,  such 
as  glass-beads,  &c.  They  refused  tobacco,  whiskey,  bread,  or  meat, 
and  were  only  desirous  of  getting  old  iron,  nails,  and  pieces  of  hoop- 
iron. 

Their  food  consists  principally  of  fish  and  shell-fish.  Their  fishing 
apparatus  is  made  of  the  dorsal  fin  of  a  fish,  tied  to  a  thin  slip  of 
whalebone,  in  the  form  of  a  barb ;  this  serves  as  a  good  hook,  and 
with  it  they  obtain  a  supply  of  this  food.  Their  arms  consisted  alto¬ 
gether  of  bows  and  arrows.  The  natives  had  the  common  dog,  which 
they  seemed  to  prize  much. 

Mr.  Rich  employed  his  time  in  botanical  researches ;  the  prominent 
plants  were  Berberes,  Winteria,  Vaccinium,  Andromeda,  Composite, 


RIO  NEGRO. 


119 


(some  woody)  Cruciferse,  Umbelliferse,  &c.  A  number  of  these  were 
just  putting  forth  their  flowering  buds.  Scurvy-grasses  and  wild 
celery  abounded. 

The  tracks  of  the  guanacoe  were  seen,  and  some  land-shells  were 
obtained. 

Captain  King’s  description  of  this  bay  was  found  to  be  correct ;  the 
position  of  it  by  the  Reliefs  chronometers  was  65°  11'  31"  W.,  by 
sights  taken  on  shore,  which  is  2'  13"  to  the  west  of  the  longitude 
assigned  it  by  him.  The  latitude  was  not  obtained,  but  that  given  by 
Captain  King,  54°  48'  S.,  is  believed  to  be  correct. 

The  morning  of  the  23d  they  left  Good  Success  Bay.  On  the 
25th,  having  made  but  little  progress  to  the  westward,  and  the  usual 
and  certain  appearance  of  bad  weather  approaching,  Lieutenant- 
Commandant  Long  determined  to  anchor  under  New  Island  to  await 
it,  which  was  accordingly  done  at  five  o’clock  the  same  evening, 
in  thirty  fathoms.  Shortly  afterwards  it  blew  furiously,  with  rain 
and  hail,  which  continued  throughout  the  night. 

The  plants  were  the  same  as  those  seen  at  Good  Success  Bay,  but 
were  much  farther  advanced,  being  in  full  flower.  Several  heath-like 
plants  and  many  new  grasses  were  procured.  During  the  time  they 
were  at  anchor,  some  tide  was  perceptible,  but  it  was  quite  irregular. 

The  latitude  of  the  anchorage  was  determined  to  be  55°  17'  S., 
longitude  66°  13'  W.  It  is  not  deemed  a  suitable  or  safe  anchorage, 
unless  well  provided  with  good  ground-tackle. 

On  the  26th  they  again  were  under  way  for  Orange  Harbour, 
which  they  reached  four  days  afterwards,  where  they  were  employed 
preparing  for  sea  and  accumulating  fire- wood,  preparatory  to  the 
arrival  of  the  rest  of  the  squadron.  They  had  also  established  a  light¬ 
house  on  the  top  of  Burnt  Island,  which  forms  the  protection  to  Orange 
Harbour  on  the  east,  as  directed  by  their  orders.  On  the  17th  of 
February,  as  before  stated,  the  Relief  was  joined  by  the  rest  of  the 
squadron. 


FUEGIAN  PADDLES,  ETC. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


CONTENTS. 

ORANGE  HARBOUR  — PLAN  OF  THE  SQUADRON’S  OPERATIONS  —  NATIVES  —  THEIR 
APPEARANCE  —  THEIR  HUTS  —  ARRIVAL  OF  MORE  NATIVES  —  THEIR  TALENT  FOR 
MIMICKRY- VISIT  TO  THEIR  HUTS— THEIR  FOOD  — SOIL  NEAR  ORANGE  HARBOUR  — 
TIDES— WHALES. 


CHAPTER  YI. 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 

1  8  3  9. 

Orange  Harbour  is  on  the  western  side  of  Nassau  Bay,  separated 
and  protected  from  it  by  Burnt  Island.  It  is  nearly  land-locked,  and 
is  the  safest  harbour  on  the  coast.  The  hills  on  each  side,  after 
several  undulations,  rise  into  conical  peaks,  and  the  naked  rock  is 
every  where  broken  into  a  jagged  outline,  with  no  creeping  plants  to 
soften  or  take  off  its  harshness.  Every  thing  has  a  bleak  and  wintry 
appearance,  and  is  in  excellent  keeping  with  the  climate;  yet  the 
scenery  about  it  is  pleasing  to  the  eye,  bounded  on  all  sides  by 
undulating  hills,  which  are  covered  with  evergreen  foliage.  Distant 
mountains,  some  of  which  are  capped  with  snow,  shooting  up  in  a 
variety  of  forms,  seen  beyond  the  extensive  bays,  form  a  fine  back¬ 
ground.  From  the  vessels,  the  hills  look  like  smooth  downs,  and  if 
it  were  not  for  the  inclemency  and  fitfulness  of  the  weather,  they 
might  be  contemplated  with  some  pleasure. 

The  hills  are  covered  with  dense  forests  of  beech,  birch,  willow, 
and  winter-bark.  Some  of  the  former  are  forty  or  fifty  feet  high, 
having  all  their  tops  bent  to  the  northeast  by  the  prevailing  south¬ 
west  winds.  They  are  remarkably  even  as  to  height,  having  more 
the  look,  at  a  distance,  of  heath,  than  of  forest  trees. 

The  whole  coast  has  the  appearance  of  being  of  recent  volcanic 
rocks,  but  all  our  investigations  tended  to  prove  to  the  contrary.  We 
nowhere  found  any  cellular  lava,  pumice,  or  obsidian,  nor  was  there 
any  granite,  or  other  primitive  rock  seen,  though  reported  by  Captain 
King  as  existing.  The  rock  was  trachytic,  or  of  trap  formation, 
apparently  having  undergone  more  or  less  action  by  fire. 


124 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


ORANGE  HARBOUR.  TERRA  DEL  FUEGO  . 


Immediately  on  our  arrival  at  Orange  Harbour,  active  preparations 
were  made  for  a  short  cruise  to  the  Antarctic.  Although  the  season 
was  late,  I  at  least  anticipated  getting  some  experience  among  the  ice, 
and  I  concluded  that  the  lateness  of  the  season  would  have  allowed 
it  to  have  detached  itself  from  the  shores  of  Palmer’s  Land,  and 
would  permit  as  near  an  approach  as  possible  to  its  main  body  or 
barrier,  in  the  vicinity  of  Cook’s  Ne  Plus  Ultra. 

Agreeably  to  my  instructions,  such  disposition  was  made  of  the 
squadron  as  seemed  best  calculated  to  obtain  the  necessary  results  in 
the  different  departments.  Captain  Hudson,  with  the  Peacock,  and 
the  Flying-Fish,  under  Lieutenant  Walker,  as  a  tender,  were  ordered 
to  the  westward,  as  far  as  the  Ne  Plus  Ultra  of  Cook.  I  went  in  the 
Porpoise,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  accompanied  by  the 
Sea-Gull,  Lieutenant  Johnson,  to  pass  to  the  south,  for  the  purpose  if 
possible  of  exploring  the  southeast  side  of  Palmer’s  Land,  or,  should 
an  opportunity  offer,  of  proceeding  further  south.  The  Relief,  Lieu¬ 
tenant-Commandant  Long,  was  ordered  into  the  Straits  of  Magellan, 
through  the  Brecknock  Passage  and  Cockburn’s  Sound,  with  part  of 
the  gentlemen  of  the  scientific  corps,  in  order  to  enlarge  our  field  of 
operations.  Mr.  Peale  volunteered  to  go  south  in  the  Peacock. 

The  Vincennes  was  safely  moored  in  Orange  Harbour,  and  left 
under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Craven,  to  carry  on  the  investigations, 
surveys,  &c.  &c.  Messrs.  Couthouy  and  Drayton,  of  the  scientific 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


125 


corps,  remained  in  the  Vincennes.  Lieutenant  Carr  was  put  in 
charge  of  the  observatory. 

In  making  the  changes  necessary  for  this  cruise  to  the  south,  I 
regretted  extremely  being  compelled,  from  the  want  of  junior  officers, 
to  supersede  temporarily  both  Passed  Midshipmen  Reid  and  Knox 
in  command  of  the  two  tenders.  These  officers  had  not  their 
superiors  in  the  squadron  for  the  situations  they  occupied ;  but  the 
duty  I  owed  the  Expedition  and  country  compelled  me  to  do  it,  and 
also  to  refuse  their  application  to  be  transferred  from  the  tenders,  for 
I  was  well  satisfied,  as  long  as  they  were  on  board,  the  vessels  would 
he  well  taken  care  of.  I  had  a  very  high  opinion  of  Mr.  Reid,  from 
the  experience  I  had  had  of  him ;  and  as  respects  Mr.  Knox,  I  feel  it 
my  duty  here  to  acknowledge  how  much  the  Expedition  is  indebted 
to  him  for  his  services  on  board  the  Flying-Fish.  He  not  only  had 
the  ability,  but  the  necessary  perseverance  and  ambition,  to  perform 
his  duties  well.  So  arduous  were  they,  that  I  was  for  a  time  obliged 
to  transfer  him  to  my  ship  on  account  of  his  health.  The  moment 
his  health  permitted  it,  he  was  again  put  in  command  of  the  Flying- 
Fish,  to  the  great  advantage  of  the  service.  In  according  thus  much 
to  his  industry,  ability,  and  zeal,  I  am  well  satisfied  that  I  but  speak 
the  opinion  of  every  officer  in  the  squadron. 

The  vessels  were  well  supplied  with  fuel,  provisions,  and  various 
antiscorbutics,  for  ten  months.  A  spot  for  the  observatory  was  fixed 
upon,  and  orders  left  for  the  duties  to  be  performed  during  the 
absence  of  the  squadron.* 

The  22d  of  February  was  duly  celebrated  by  the  hoisting  of  flags, 
but  we  had  not  time  to  make  a  holiday  of  it. 

During  our  stay,  we  had,  at  various  times,  visits  from  the  natives. 
They  were  all  at  first  very  shy,  but  after  they  found  our  friendly 
disposition  towards  them,  they  became  more  sociable  and  confiding. 

Before  our  departure  from  Orange  Harbour,  a  bark  canoe  came 
alongside,  with  an  Indian,  his  squaw,  and  four  children.  The  tribe 
to  which  they  belonged  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Petcherai 
Indians.  They  were  entirely  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a  small 
piece  of  sealskin,  only  sufficient  to  cover  one  shoulder,  and  which 
is  generally  worn  on  the  side  from  which  the  wind  blows,  affording 
them  some  little  shelter  against  its  piercing  influence. 


*  The  instructions  issued  for  the  proceedings  of  the  vessels  will  be  found  embraced  in 
the  Appendix,  from  XX Y.  to  XXX.  inclusive. 

vol.  i.  32 


126 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


NATIVE  OF  TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


They  were  not  more  than  five  feet  high,  of  a  light  copper  colour, 
which  is  much  concealed  by  smut  and  dirt,  particularly  on  their 
faces,  which  they  mark  vertically  with  charcoal.  They  have  short 
faces,  narrow  foreheads,  and  high  cheek-bones.  Their  eyes  are 
small  and  usually  black,  the  upper  eyelids  in  the  inner  corner  over¬ 
lapping  the  under  one,  and  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  those  of  the 
Chinese.  Their  nose  is  broad  and  flat,  with  wide-spread  nostrils; 
mouth  large ;  teeth  white,  large,  and  regular.  The  hair  is  long,  lank, 
and  black,  hanging  over  the  face,  and  is  covered  with  white  ashes, 
which  gives  them  a  hideous  appearance.  The  whole  face  is  com¬ 
pressed.  Their  bodies  are  remarkable  from  the  great  developement 
of  the  chest,  shoulders,  and  vertebral  column ;  their  arms  are  long, 
and  out  of  proportion;  their  legs  small  and  ill  made.  There  is  in 
fact  little  difference  between  the  size  of  the  ankle  and  leg,  and  when 
standing,  the  skin  at  the  knee  hangs  in  a  large  loose  fold.  In  some, 
the  muscles  of  the  leg  appear  almost  wanting,  and  possess  very  little 
strength.  This  want  of  developement  in  the  muscles  of  the  legs  is 
owing  to  their  constant  sitting  posture,  both  in  their  huts  and  canoes. 
Their  skin  is  sensibly  colder  than  ours.  It  is  impossible  to  fancy 
any  thing  in  human  nature  more  filthy.  They  are  an  ill-shapen  and 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


127 


ugly  race.*  They  have  little  or  no  idea  of  the  relative  value  of 
articles,  even  of  those  that  one  would  suppose  were  of  the  utmost  use 
to  them,  such  as  iron  and  glass-ware.  A  glass  bottle  broken  into 
pieces,  is  valued  as  much  as  a  knife.  Red  flannel,  torn  into  strips, 
pleases  them  more  than  in  the  piece;  they  wound  it  around  their 
heads,  as  a  kind  of  turban,  and  it  was  amusing  to  see  their  satis¬ 
faction  at  this  small  acquisition. 

The  children  were  quite  small,  and  nestled  in  the  bottom  of  the 
canoe  on  some  dry  grass.  The  woman  and  eldest  boy  paddled  the 
canoe,  the  man  being  employed  to  bale  out  the  water  and  attend  to 
the  fire,  which  is  always  carried  in  the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  on  a  few 
stones  and  ashes,  which  the  water  surrounds. 


Their  canoes  are  constructed  of  bark,  are  very  frail,  and  sewed 
with  shreds  of  whalebone,  sealskin,  and  twigs.  They  are  sharp  at 
both  ends,  and  are  kept  in  shape  as  well  as  strengthened  by  a 
number  of  stretchers  lashed  to  the  gunwale. 

These  Indians  seldom  venture  outside  the  kelp,  by  the  aid  of  which 
they  pull  themselves  along,  and  their  paddles  are  so  small  as  to  be  of 
little  use  in  propelling  their  canoes,  unless  it  is  calm.  Some  of  the 
officers  thought  they  recognised  a  party  on  the  Hermit  Islands  that  had 
been  on  board  ship  at  Orange  Harbour.  If  this  was  the  case,  they 

*  For  their  dimensions,  see  Table  of  Comparative  Proportions,  at  the  end  of  the  work. 


128 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


must  have  ventured  across  the  Bay  of  Nassau,  a  distance  of  some  ten 
or  twelve  miles.  This,  if  correct,  would  go  to  prove  that  there  is 
more  intercourse  among  them  than  their  frail  barks  would  lead  one 
to  expect. 

Their  huts  are  generally  found  built  close  to  the  shore,  at  the 
head  of  some  small  bay,  in  a  secluded  spot,  and  sheltered  from  the 
prevailing  winds.  They  are  built  of  boughs  or  small  trees,  stuck 
in  the  earth,  and  brought  together  at  the  top,  where  they  are 
firmly  bound  by  bark,  sedge,  and  twigs.  Smaller  branches  are  then 
interlaced,  forming  a  tolerably  compact  wicker-work,  and  on  this 
grass,  turf,  and  bark  are  laid,  making  the  hut  quite  warm,  and  im¬ 
pervious  to  the  wind  and  snow,  though  not  quite  so  to  the  rain. 
The  usual  dimensions  of  these  huts  are  seven  or  eight  feet  in 
diameter,  and  about  four  or  five  feet  in  height.  They  have  an  oval 
hole  to  creep  in  at.  The  fire  is  built  in  a  small  excavation  in  the 
middle  of  the  hut.  The  floor  is  of  clay,  which  has  the  appearance  of 


FUEGIANS  AND  HUT. 


having  been  well  kneaded.  The  usual  accompaniment  of  a  hut  is  a 
conical  pile  of  shells  opposite  the  door,  nearly  as  large  as  the  hut 
itself. 

Their  occupancy  of  a  hut  seems  to  be  limited  to  the  supply  of 
shell-fish,  consisting  of  mussels  and  limpets,  in  the  neighbourhood. 

These  natives  are  never  seen  but  in  their  huts  or  canoes.  The 
impediments  to  their  communication  by  land  are  great,  growing  out 
of  the  mountainous  and  rocky  character  of  the  country,  intersected 
with  inlets  deep  and  impassable,  and  in  most  places  bounded  by 
abrupt  precipices,  together  with  a  soil  which  may  be  termed  a 
quagmire,  on  which  it  is  difficult  to  walk.  This  prevails  on  the 
hills  as  well  as  in  the  plains  and  valleys.  The  impenetrable  nature 
of  the  forest,  with  the  dense  undergrowth  of  thorny  bushes,  renders 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


129 


it  impossible  for  them  to  overcome  or  contend  with  these  difficulties. 
They  appear  to  live  in  families,  and  not  in  tribes,  and  do  not  seem 
to  acknowledge  any  chief. 

On  the  11th  of  March  three  bark  canoes  arrived,  containing  four 
men,  four  women,  and  a  girl  about  sixteen  years  old,  four  little  boys 
and  four  infants,  one  of  the  latter  about  a  week  old,  and  quite  naked. 
The  thermometer  was  at  46°  Fahrenheit.  They  had  rude  weapons, 
viz.,  slings  to  throw  stones,  three  rude  spears,  pointed  at  the  end  with 
bone,  and  notched  on  one  side  with  barbed  teeth.  With  this  they 
catch  their  fish,  which  are  in  great  quantities  among  the  kelp.  Two 
of  the  natives  were  induced  to  come  on  board,  after  they  had  been 
alongside  for  upwards  of  an  hour,  and  received  many  presents,  for 
which  they  gave  their  spears,  a  dog,  and  some  of  their  rude  native 
trinkets.  They  did  not  show  or  express  surprise  at  any  thing  on 
board,  except  when  seeing  one  of  the  carpenters  engaged  in  boring  a 
hole  with  a  screw-auger  through  a  plank,  which  would  have  been  a 
long  task  for  them.  They  were  very  talkative,  smiling  when  spoken 
to,  and  often  bursting  into  loud  laughter,  but  instantly  settling  into 
their  natural  serious  and  sober  cast. 

They  were  found  to  be  great  mimics,  both  in  gesture  and  sound, 
and  would  repeat  any  word  of  our  language,  with  great  correctness  of 
pronunciation.  Their  imitations  of  sounds  were  truly  astonishing. 
One  of  them  ascended  and  descended  the  octave  perfectly,  following 
the  sounds  of  the  violin  correctly.  It  was  then  found  he  could  sound 
the  common  chords,  and  follow  through  the  semitone  scale,  with 
scarcely  an  error.  They  all  have  musical  voices,  speak  in  the  note 
G  sharp,  ending  with  the  semitone  A  when  asking  for  presents,  and 
were  continually  singing, 


Yah  mass  scoo  nah 


Yali  mass  scoo  nah. 


Their  mimickry  became  annoying,  and  precluded  our  getting  at  any 
of  their  words  or  ideas.  It  not  only  extended  to  words  or  sounds,  but 
actions  also,  and  was  at  times  truly  ridiculous.  The  usual  manner  of 
interrogating  for  names  was  quite  unsuccessful.  On  pointing  to  the 
nose,  for  instance,  they  did  the  same.  Any  thing  they  saw  done  they 
would  mimic,  and  with  an  extraordinary  degree  of  accuracy.  On 
these  canoes  approaching  the  ship,  the  principal  one  of  the  family,  or 
chief,  standing  up  in  his  canoe,  made  a  harangue.  He  spoke  in  G 
vol.  i.  33 


130 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


natural,  and  did  not  vary  his  voice  more  than  a  semitone.  The  pitch 
of  the  voice  of  the  female  is  an  octave  higher.  Although  they  have 
been  heard  to  shout  quite  loud,  yet  they  cannot  endure  a  noise. 
When  the  drum  beat  they  invariably  stopped  their  ears,  until  it 
ceased.  On  hearing  a  pistol  or  gun  fired,  they  immediately  did  the 
same.  They  always  speak  to  each  other  in  a  whisper.  Their 
cautious  manner  and  movements  prove  them  to  be  a  timid  race. 
The  men  are  exceedingly  jealous  of  their  women,  and  will  not  allow 
any  one,  if  they  can  help  it,  to  enter  their  huts,  particularly  boys. 

The  women  were  never  suffered  to  come  on  board.  They  appeared 
modest  in  the  presence  of  strangers.  They  never  move  from  a  sitting 
posture,  or  rather  a  squat,  with  their  knees  close  together,  reaching 
to  their  chin,  their  feet  in  contact  and  touching  the  lower  part  of  the 
body.  They  are  extremely  ugly.  Their  hands  and  feet  were  small 
and  well-shaped,  and  from  appearance  they  are  not  accustomed  to  do 
any  hard  work.  They  appear  very  fond  and  seem  careful  of  their 
young  children,  though  on  several  occasions  they  offered  them  for 
sale  for  a  trifle.  They  have  their  faces  smutted  all  over,  and  it  was 
thought  from  the  hideous  appearance  of  the  females,  produced  in  part 
by  their  being  painted  and  smutted,  that  they  had  been  disfigured  by 
the  men  previous  to  coming  alongside.  It  was  remarked  that  when 
one  of  them  saw  herself  in  a  looking-glass,  she  burst  into  tears,  as- 
Jack  thought  from  pure  mortification. 

The  men  are  employed  in  building  the  huts,  obtaining  food,  and 
providing  for  their  other  wants.  The  women  were  generally  seen 
paddling  their  canoes. 

When  this  party  of  natives  left  the  ship  and  reached  the  shore,  the 
women  remained  in  their  canoes,  and  the  men  began  building  their 
temporary  huts ;  the  little  children  were  seen  capering  quite  naked 
on  the  beach,  although  the  thermometer  was  at  40°.  On  the  hut 
being  finished,  which  occupied  about  an  hour,  the  women  went  on 
shore  to  take  possession  of  it.  They  all  seemed  quite  happy  and 
contented . 

Before  they  left  the  ship  the  greater  part  of  them  were  dressed  in 
old  clothes,  that  had  been  given  to  them  by  the  officers  and  men,  who 
all  showed  themselves  extremely  anxious  “to  make  them  comfortable.” 
This  gave  rise  to  much  merriment,  as  Jack  was  not  disposed  to  allow 
any  difficulties  to  interfere  in  the  fitting.  If  the  jackets  proved  too 
tight  across  the  shoulders,  which  they  invariably  were,  a  slit  down 
the  back  effectually  remedied  the  defect.  If  a  pair  of  trousers  was 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


13  L 


found  too  small  around  the  waist,  the  knife  was  again  resorted  to,  and 
in  some  cases  a  lit  was  made  by  severing  the  legs.  The  most  diffi¬ 
cult  lit,  and  the  one  which  produced  the  most  merriment,  was  that 
of  a  woman  to  whom  an  old  coat  was  given.  This  she  concluded 
belonged  to  her  nether  limbs,  and  no  signs,  hints,  or  shouts,  could 
correct  her  mistake.  Her  feet  were  thrust  through  the  sleeves,  and 
after  hard  squeezing  she  succeeded  in  drawing  them  on.  With  the 
skirts  brought  up  in  front,  she  took  her  seat  in  the  canoe  with  great 
satisfaction,  amid  a  roar  of  laughter  from  all  who  saw  her. 

Towards  evening,  Messrs.  Waldron  and  Drayton  visited  their  huts. 
Before  they  reached  the  shore  the  natives  were  seen  making  a  lire  on 
the  beach,  for  their  reception,  evidently  to  avoid  their  entering  their 
huts. 

On  landing,  one  of  the  men  seemed  anxious  to  talk  with  them.  He 
pointed  to  the  ship,  and  tried  to  express  many  things  by  gestures ; 
then  pointed  to  the  southeast,  and  then  again  to  the  ship,  after  which, 
clasping  his  hands,  as  in  our  mode  of  prayer,  he  said  “Eloah,  Eloah,” 
as  though  he  thought  we  had  come  from  God. 

After  a  little  time  they  gained  admittance  to  the  hut.  The  men 
creeping  in  first,  squatted  themselves  directly  in  front  of  the  women, 
all  holding  out  the  small  piece  of  sealskin  to  allow  the  heat  to  reach 
their  bodies.  The  women  were  squatted  three  deep  behind  the  men, 
the  oldest  in  front  nestling  the  infants. 

After  being  in  the  hut  Mr.  Drayton  endeavoured  to  call  the 
attention  of  the  man  who  had  made  signs  to  him  before  entering,  to 
know  whether  they  had  any  idea  of  a  Supreme  Being.  The  same 
man  then  put  his  hands  together,  repeating  as  before,  “  Eloah, 
Eloah.”  From  his  manner  it  was  inferred  that  they  had  some  idea 
of  God  or  a  Supreme  Being. 

Their  mode  of  expressing  friendship  is  by  jumping  up  and  down. 
They  made  Messrs.  Waldron  and  Drayton  jump  with  them  on  the 
beach,  before  entering  the  hut,  took  hold  of  their  arms,  facing  them, 
and  jumping  two  or  three  inches  from  the  ground,  making  them  keep 
time  to  the  following  song  : 


t r  n 

~ 1 

1 

J. 

Jr  i 

J 

1 

I 

•\  jj— 

0 

9 

1  " 

ft,. 

ClF 

9 

17 

Ha  ma  la  ha  ma  la  ha  ma  la  ha  ma  la. 


is, 

- K 

5  'j:j: 

1  ■ 

l 

& 

9 

0 

H  &  0 

0 

©  w  •!  i 

vvl7  57 

•  |  | 

0 

la  la 

la 

la 

la  la 

la 

la  la. 

132 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO, 


All  our  endeavours  to  find  out  how  they  ignited  their  fire  proved 
unavailing.  It  must  be  exceedingly  difficult  for  them  to  accomplish, 
judging  from  the  care  they  take  of  it,  always  carrying  it  with  them 
in  their  canoes,  and  the  danger  they  thus  run  of  injuring  themselves 
by  it. 

Their  food  consists  of  limpets,  muscles,  and  other  shell-fish. 
Quantities  of  fish,  and  some  seals,  are  now  and  then  taken  among  the 
kelp,  and  with  berries  of  various  kinds,  and  wild  celery,  they  do  not 
want.  They  seldom  cook  their  food  much.  The  shell-fish  are 
detached  from  the  shell  by  heat,  and  the  fish  are  partly  roasted  in 
their  skins,  without  being  cleaned. 

When  on  board,  one  of  them  was  induced  to  sit  at  the  dinner  table, 
when ;  after  a  few  lessons,  he  handled  his  knife  and  fork  with  much 
dexterity.  He  refused  both  spirits  and  wine,  but  was  very  fond  of 
sweetened  water.  Salt  provisions  were  not  at  all  to  his  liking,  but 
rice  and  plum  pudding  were  agreeable  to  his  taste,  and  he  literally 
crammed  them  into  his  mouth.  After  his  appetite  had  been  satisfied, 
he  was  in  great  good  humour,  singing  his  “  Hey  meh  leh,”  dancing 
and  laughing.  His  mimickry  prevented  any  satisfactory  inquiries 
being  made  of  him  relative  to  a  vocabulary. 

Some  of  the  officers  painted  their  faces  black,  white,  and  red ;  this 
delighted  them  very  much,  and  it  was  quite  amusing  to  see  the 
grimaces  made  by  them  before  a  looking-glass. 

One  of  these  natives  remained  on  board  for  upwards  of  a  week,  and 
being  washed  and  combed,  he  became  two  or  three  shades  lighter  in 
colour.  Clothes  were  put  on  him.  He  was  about  twenty-three  years 
of  age,  and  was  unwell  the  whole  time  he  was  on  board,  from  eating 
such  quantities  of  rice,  &c.  His  astonishment  was  very  great  on 
attending  divine  service.  The  moment  the  chaplain  began  to  read 
from  the  book,  his  eyes  were  riveted  upon  him,  where  they  remained 
as  long  as  he  continued  to  read.  At  the  end  of  the  week  he  became 
dissatisfied,  and  was  set  on  shore,  and  soon  appeared  naked  again. 
It  was  observed  on  presents  being  made,  that  those  who  did  not 
receive  any  began  a  sort  of  whining  cry,  putting  on  the  most  doleful- 
looking  countenances  imaginable. 

They  are  much  addicted  to  theft,  if  any  opportunity  offers.  The 
night  before  they  left  the  bay,  they  stole  and  cut  up  one  of  the  wind 
sails,  which  had  been  scrubbed  and  hung  up  on  shore  to  dry. 

Although  we  had  no  absolute  proof  of  it,  we  are  inclined  to  the 
belief  that  they  bury  their  dead  in  caves. 


TERRA  DEL  FUEGO. 


133 


There  is  a  black-coloured  moss  that  covers  the  ground  in  places, 
giving  it  the  appearance  of  having  been  burnt.  Many  small  ponds 
are  met  with,  as  though  the  peat  had  been  dug  from  the  place,  and 
filled  with  water.  There  is  great  plenty  of  scurvy-grass  and  wild 
celery  close  to  the  beach. 

Here  any  quantity  of  water  may  be  obtained  on  the  top  and  sloping 
sides  of  the  hills. 

The  decomposition  of  the  feldspathic  rocks  appears  to  be  going  on 
rapidly.  This,  combined  with  vegetable  matter,  forms  a  rich  soil, 
but  it  is  so  exceedingly  wet  from  the  constant  rains  and  snows,  that 
it  is  very  questionable  if  any  agricultural  operations  could  succeed. 

At  Orange  Harbour  the  tide  was  found  to  have  four  feet  rise  and 
fall.  High  water,  full  and  change,  at  4  p.  m.  Among  the  Hermit 
Islands  it  seems  to  be  affected  by  the  winds  in  the  offing.  The  flood 
sets  to  the  east. 

Large  numbers  of  humpback  whales  were  seen  in  March  about 
Orange  Harbour. 

In  a  small  cove  on  New  Island,  a  different  description  of  hut  was 
seen  by  the  officers  of  the  Relief.  Not  having  met  with  any  natives, 
it  was  not  in  their  power  to  ascertain  if  it  belonged  to  the  same  tribe. 
It  was  built  of  logs,  with  their  upper  ends  leaning  together  in  the 
form  of  a  cone,  and  nearly  circular  at  the  base ;  the  interstices  were 
filled  with  grass,  leaves,  and  earth,  in  which  some  grasses  had  taken 
root,  and  were  growing.  It  is  represented  in  the  tail-piece. 


NATIVE  HUT. 


VOL.  I. 


34 


CHAPTER  YII. 


CONTENTS. 

DEPARTURE  OF  PORPOISE— WHALE  SHIP— HEIGHT  OF  WAVES— KING  GEORGE’S  ISLAND  — 
O’BRIEN’S  AND  ASPLAND'S  ISLANDS -PALMER’S  LAND— ADVENTURE  ISLETS— GALE— SEA¬ 
GULL  ORDERED  TO  RETURN  —  RETURN  OF  THE  PORPOISE  —  ELEPHANT  ISLAND  —  GOOD 
SUCCESS  BAY  — BOAT  DETAINED  —  ATTEMPT  TO  RELIEVE  —  ACCIDENT  —  LIEUTENANT 
HARTSTEIN  —  GALE  —  FURTHER  ATTEMPT  TO  RELIEVE  THE  PARTY  —  PORPOISE  COM¬ 
PELLED  TO  PUT  TO  SEA— CAPE  ST.  DIEGO  — ANCHOR  OFF  IT— RETURN  TO  GOOD  SUCCESS 
BAY— PARTY  JOIN— THEIR  TRANSACTIONS— LEAVE  GOOD  SUCCESS  BAY— NASSAU  BAY  — 
DARK  NIGHT  — FIND  OURSELVES  AMONG  KELP  — ANCHOR  — NATIVES  — REACH  ORANGE 
HARBOUR  — ALL  WELL  — SEA-GULL  —  DECEPTION  ISLAND  —  PENGUINS—  SEA  LEOPARD  — 
TEMPERATURE— VISIT  TO  CRATER  — FORCE  OF  WIND  — CAPTAIN  SMILEY— DEPARTURE- 
ARRIVAL  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR  — SENT  IN  SEARCH  OF  LAUNCH— LOSS  OF  THAT  BOAT- 
RETURN  OF  SEA-GULL  — AGAIN  SAILS  FOR  WOLLASTON’S  ISLAND  — BAILY  ISLAND  — SEA¬ 
GULL  HARBOUR— ARRIVAL  OF  FLYING-FISH. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 

1  839. 

On  the  25th  of  February,  having  completed  the  arrangements  for 
the  southern  cruise,  and  prepared  instructions  for  the  continuance  of 
the  duties  of  the  Expedition  in  case  of  my  being  detained  among 
the  ice,  the  signal  was  ordered  to  be  made  for  the  vessels  to  get  under 
way,  when  I  joined  the  Porpoise.  Very  many  of  my  crew  were 
desirous  of  following  me,  and  expressed  regrets  and  disappointment 
that  the  Vincennes  was  not  going  south.  All  I  could  do,  was  to 
promise  them  enough  of  Antarctic  cruising  the  next  year,  and  I 
believe  they  are  now  all  satisfied  that  I  kept  my  word.  About  7 
a.  m.,  we  left  the  harbour,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  north,  having 
the  Sea-Gull,  of  which  vessel  Lieutenant  Johnson  was  in  charge,  in 
company.  On  passing  the  other  vessels  of  the  squadron  we  received 
three  hearty  cheers,  which  was  duly  returned. 

Various  causes  conspired  to  render  our  short  stay  in  Orange 
Harbour  the  turning  point  of  the  discipline  of  the  cruise.  I  cannot 
but  express  my  surprise,  even  at  this  distant  day,  that  any  officers 
embarked  in  this  undertaking  could  have  so  far  lost  sight  of  their  duty 
as  to  have  endeavoured  to  throw  obstacles  in  the  way  of  the  prompt 
execution  of  the  duties  they  owed  to  the  country,  and  the  service  on 
which  they  were  engaged,  or  would  have  allowed  selfish  feelings  to 
predominate  over  those  for  the  public  good.  Prompt  and  energetic 
action  soon  put  an  end  to  these  small  difficulties. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  Captain  Hudson  and  the  few  officers 
who  had  accompanied  us  took  their  leave.  I  must  own  at  that 
moment  I  felt  greatly  depressed,  for  I  was  well  awrare  that  we  had 

35 


VOL.  I. 


138 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


many,  very  many  dangers  to  encounter  before  meeting  again.  But 
there  is  a  feeling  produced  by  the  kind  of  service  on  which,  we  were 
engaged,  that  gives  a  stout  heart,  braces  it  for  meeting  almost  every 
emergency  that  may  happen,  and  causes  us  to  look  forward  with 
hope  to  overcome  the  difficulties  that  may  lie  in  our  path.  After  a 
short  time  we  saw  the  Peacock  and  Flying-Fish  under  sail,  fol¬ 
lowing  us. 

The  wind  continued  light,  with  fine  weather,  until  the  afternoon. 
The  whole  scenery  around  us  was  viewed  to  great  advantage,  under 
a  mild  state  of  the  atmosphere,  taking  away  from  it  the  usual  gloomy 
aspect  which  a  sky,  overcast  and  boisterous,  gives.  A  dense  bank  of 
cumuli  in  the  southwest  foretold,  that  we  were  not  long  to  enjoy  such 
moderate  weather.  About  4  p.  m.,  a  heavy  squall  struck  us,  which 
soon  took  us  clear  of  the  islands,  on  our  course  to  the  southward. 

On  the  26th,  we  discovered  a  sail,  which  proved  to  be  the  whale 
ship  America,  from  New  Zealand,  bound  to  New  York,  and  afforded 
us  an  opportunity  of  writing  home,  which  we  gladly  availed  ourselves 
of.  The  master  of  the  America  informed  me  that  he  had  experienced 
constant  heavy  winds,  and  had  been  thirty-five  days  from  New 
Zealand ;  that  the  ship  was  very  leaky,  but  having  a  full  cargo  of 
three  thousand  eight  hundred  barrels  of  oil,  he  was  in  great  spirits. 
I  have  seldom  seen  at  sea  a  more  uncombed  and  dirty  set  than  his 
crew.  How  they  preserve  any  tolerable  state  of  health  I  know  not, 
and  it  is  not  at  all  surprising  that  the  ravages  of  scurvy  should  be 
felt  on  board  of  some  vessels  belonging  to  the  whaling  fleet,  if  this 
is  the  state  in  which  they  are  kept. 

After  delivering  our  letters  we  bore  away  to  the  southeast,  the 
wind  inclining  to  the  northwest  and  blowing  heavy,  with  a  high  and 
remarkably  regular  sea  following.  This  afforded  me  an  opportunity 
I  had  long  desired,  for  making  observations  to  determine  the  height 
of  the  waves,  together  with  their  width  and  velocity.  It  is  obviously 
very  difficult  to  do  this  with  correctness.  I  shall  therefore  state  the 
means  which  I  adopted,  in  order  that  it  may  be  perceived  what 
reliance  is  to  be  placed  on  the  results. 

This  opportunity  was  far  more  favourable  than  that  which  occurred 
off  Madeira,  when  I  was  enabled  to  get  only  an  approximation  to 
their  velocity,  they  were  not  then  urged  on  by  any  fresh  impetus  as 
in  the  present  case. 

The  Porpoise  was  directly  ahead  of  the  Sea-Gull,  and  but  two 
waves  apart ;  the  rate  of  sailing  was  about  eight  knots  an  hour,  both 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


139 


vessels  being  apparently  very  steady.  In  heaving  the  log,  I  found 
that  the  chip,  in  drawing  in  the  line,  was,  when  on  the  top  of  the  next 
wave  astern,  distant  by  line  three  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  equal  to 
one-sixteenth  of  a  mile,  and  the  schooner  being  on  the  next  wave, 
was  twice  the  distance,  or  one-eighth  of  a  mile.  The  time  occupied 
for  a  wave  to  pass  from  the  schooner  to  the  brig  was  thirteen  seconds, 
taking  the  mean  of  many  trials,  from  which  none  varied  more  than  a 
second  and  a  half.  This  gave  about  twenty -six  and  a  half  miles  in 
an  hour  for  their  apparent  progressive  motion.  In  order  to  get  their 
height,  I  took  the  opportunity  when  the  schooner  was  in  the  trough 
of  the  sea,  and  my  eye  on  board  the  Porpoise  in  the  horizon,  to 
observe  where  it  cut  the  mast :  the  wood-cut  will  illustrate  it. 


This  gave  me  thirty-two  feet.  The  waves  ran  higher  and  more 
regular  on  this  occasion  than  I  have  seen  them  at  any  other  time 
during  the  cruise. 

We  had  many  albatrosses  hovering  about,  and  at  times  resting  as 
it  were  immovable  in  the  storm,  some  gray  petrels,  and  Cape  pigeons 
in  numbers.  The  weather  becoming  thick,  and  the  temperature  of 
the  water  having  fallen  to  32°,  I  deemed  it  prudent  to  heave  to  during 
the  darkness. 

The  28th  came  in  more  moderate.  As  soon  as  it  was  light  we 
again  made  sail  to  the  south.  Towards  noon  the  wind  hauled  to  the 
northward  and  brought  rain.  The  temperature  of  the  water  was  37°. 
The  wind  now  again  hauled  to  the  southward  and  blew  fresh.  At 
noon  we  had  reached  the  latitude  of  61°  20'  S.,  longitude  60°  49'  W. 
We  found  ourselves  obliged  to  lay  to  this  night  also,  it  being  too  dark 
to  ran. 

At  daylight  on  the  1st  of  March  we  had  snow  in  flurries,  and  the 
first  ice  islands  were  made.  They  excited  much  curiosity,  and 
appeared  to  have  been  much  worn,  as  though  the  sea  had  been 
washing  over  them  for  some  time.  They  were  of  small  size  in  com¬ 
parison  with  those  we  afterwards  saw,  but  being  unused  to  the  sight, 
we  thought  them  magnificent.  At  noon  we  made  land,  which  proved 
to  be  Ridley’s  Island.  It  was  high,  broken,  and  rugged,  with  the  top 
covered  with  snow.  The  rocks  had  a  basaltic  appearance,  and  many 
were  detached  from  the  main  body  of  the  island,  with  numerous  high 


140 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


pinnacles,  very  much  worn  by  the  sea.  The  surf  was  too  great  to 
attempt  a  landing  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  specimens.  As  we 
closed  in  with  the  land  we  lowered  a  boat  and  tried  the  current,  which 
was  found  setting  to  the  north-northwest,  two  fathoms  per  hour. 

At  6  p.  m.  we  had  several  ice  islands  in  sight,  Cape  Melville 
bearing  south  by  east  (true).  We  now  had  light  winds  from  the 
south-southwest. 

The  north  foreland  of  King  George’s  Island  was  in  sight,  and 
found  to  be  well  placed  on  the  charts.  The  appearance  of  all  this 
land  is  volcanic ;  it  is  from  eight  hundred  to  one  thousand  feet  high. 
The  upper  part  is  covered  and  the  valleys  filled  with  snow  of  great 
depth.  Before  night  we  had  several  other  islands  in  sight,  with 
many  bergs  and  much  drift  ice. 

On  the  2d,  at  daylight,  we  made  O’Brien’s  and  Aspland’s  Islands, 
to  the  eastward,  with  many  ice  islands,  some  of  a  tabular  form,  and 
from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  in  length.  The  temperature  of  the  water 
was  34°.  Through  the  fog  and  mist,  we  got  a  sight  of  Bridgeman’s 
Island,  and  stood  for  it,  with  the  intention  of  landing  on  it.  The  fog- 
cleared  off  as  we  approached  it,  and  we  could  perceive  distinctly  the 
smoke  issuing  from  its  sides.  We  made  it  in  latitude  62°  06'  S.,  and 
longitude  57°  10'  W.  I  determined  to  land,  although  the  fog  was 
hovering  in  the  horizon  around  us,  and  ordered  a  boat  to  be  prepared. 
While  in  the  act  of  getting  ready,  in  less  than  ten  minutes,  we  were 
enveloped  in  a  fog  so  dense,  that  we  could  not  see  three  lengths  of  the 
brig.  We  were  now  a  short  distance  from  and  under  the  lee  of  the 
island,  and  perceived  a  strong  sulphureous  smell.  We  waited  for 
some  time,  in  hopes  of  its  clearing,  but  we  were  disappointed,  and  I 
therefore  deemed  it  advisable  to  proceed  under  short  sail,  feeling  our 
way  to  the  southward,  with  the  expectations,  every  moment,  of  en¬ 
countering  icebergs. 

This  island  is  about  six  hundred  feet  high,  and  of  the  shape  of  a 
flattened  dome.  The  sea  was  quite  smooth,  but  the  long  swell  was 
heard  dashing  against  it  and  the  icebergs  as  we  passed  them. 

On  the  3d  of  March,  we  filled  away  at  daylight,  and  stood  for 
Palmer’s  Land.  The  birds  now  had  very  much  increased,  Cape 
pigeons,  with  the  gray  and  black  petrel,  and  occasionally  penguins, 
swimming  about  us  in  all  directions,  uttering  their  discordant 
screams.  All  seemed  astonished  at  encountering  so  unusual  an 
object  as  a  vessel  in  these  frozen  seas.  At  6h  30'  we  made  land, 
which  I  took  to  be  Mount  Hope,  the  eastern  point  of  Palmer’s  Land. 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


141 


By  8  a.  m.  we  had  penetrated  among  the  numerous  icebergs,  until 
we  found  it  impossible  to  go  farther.  I  have  rarely  seen  a  finer  sight. 
The  sea  was  literally  studded  with  these  beautiful  masses,  some  of 
pure  white,  others  showing  all  the  shades  of  the  opal,  others  emerald 
green,  and  occasionally  here  and  there  some  of  a  deep  black,  forming 
a  strong  contrast  to  the  pure  white.  Near  to  us,  we  discovered  three 
small  islets,  and  gave  them  the  name  of  the  Adventure  Islets,  while 
beyond,  and  above  all,  rose  two  high  mountains,  one  of  which  was 
Mount  Hope.  I  place  the  eastern  extremity  of  Palmer’s  Land  or 
Mount  Hope  in  longitude  57°  55'  W.,  latitude  63°  25'  S. 

We  found  the  coast  to  trend  off  to  the  southeast,  and  I  judged  we 
could  see  it  trending  from  twenty -five  to  thirty  miles.  We  had  now 
ascertained,  beyond  a  doubt,  that  there  was  no  open  space  next  to  the 
land,  as  I  had  been  led  to  believe  would  have  been  found,  so  late  in 
the  season.  The  whole  area  was  studded  with  icebergs,  which  it  now 
became  us  to  get  clear  of  if  possible  before  night  set  in. 

It  was  a  day  of  great  excitement  to  all,  for  we  had  ice  of  all  kinds 
and  descriptions  to  encounter,  from  the  iceberg  of  huge  quadrangular 
shape,  with  its  stratified  appearance,  to  the  sunken  and  deceptive 
mass,  that  it  was  difficult  to  perceive  before  it  was  under  the  bow. 
Our  situation  was  critical,  but  the  wTeather  favoured  us  for  a  few  hours. 
On  clearing  these  dangers  we  kept  off  to  the  southward  and  westward, 
under  all  sail,  and  at  8  p.  m.  we  counted  eighty  large  ice-islands  in 
sight.  It  afterwards  became  so  thick  with  mist  and  fog,  as  to  render 
it  necessary  to  lay-to  till  daylight,  before  which  time  we  had  a  heavy 
snow-storm.  The  temperature  of  the  water  had  fallen  to  29° ;  air  28°. 
At  one  hundred  fathoms  depth  we  found  the  former  29°.  A  strong 
gale  now  set  in  from  the  southward  and  westward.  The  brig’s  deck 
was  covered  with  ice  and  snow,  and  the  weather  became  excessively 
damp  and  cold.  The  men  were  suffering,  not  only  from  a  want  of 
sufficient  room  to  accommodate  the  numbers  in  the  vessel,  but  from 
the  inadequacy  of  the  clothing  with  wdiich  they  had  been  supplied. 
Although  purchased  by  the  government  at  great  expense,  it  was  found 
to  be  entirely  unworthy  the  service,  and  inferior  in  every  way  to  the 
samples  exhibited.  This  was  the  case  with  all  the  articles  of  this 
description  that  were  provided  for  the  Expedition.  Not  having  been 
able  to  satisfy  myself  to  whom  the  blame  is  to  be  attributed,  con¬ 
tractors  or  inspectors,  I  hesitate  to  give  their  names  publicity.  The 
deception  is  in  my  opinion  to  be  attributed  to  both. 

On  the  5th  of  March  the  gale  had  increased.  The  tender  Sea-Gull 

36 


VOL.  I. 


142 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


being  in  close  company,  both  vessels  were  in  imminent  danger.  At 
3  a.  m.  we  narrowly  escaped  several  icebergs.  At  4  a.  m.,  it  blew  a 
very  heavy  gale  from  the  southwest ;  the  temperature  of  the  air  fell 
to  27°,  and  that  of  the  water  was  29°;  the  ice  formed  rapidly  on  the 
deck,  and  covered  the  rigging,  so  much  as  to  render  it  difficult  to  work 
either  the  brig  or  schooner ;  dangers  beset  us  in  all  directions,  and  it 
required  all  the  watchfulness  we  were  possessed  of  to  avoid  them.. 

From  the  state  of  the  weather,  the  lateness  of  the  season,  and  the 
difficulty  of  seeing  around  us,  not  only  during  the  several  hours  of 
the  night,  but  even  in  the  daytime,  the  constant  fogs  and  mist  in 
which  we  had  been  for  several  hours  every  day  enveloped,  rendered 
our  exertions  abortive,  and  precluded  the  possibility  of  doing  any 
thing  more  than  to  attend  to  the  sailing  of  the  vessels.  These  reasons 
determined  me  to  give  up  the  endeavour  to  proceed  farther  south, 
feeling  convinced  the  season  for  such  explorations  had  gone  by.  I 
therefore  ordered  the  Sea-Gull  to  return  to  Orange  Harbour,  well 
knowing  that  her  situation  was  much  worse  than  our  own ;  directing 
her  to  touch  at  Deception  Island  on  the  way,  while  we  proceeded  to 
the  northward  to  examine  some  of  the  other  islands. 


POM0I8E  &  S  CROOUSB.  SETAE  ATIX  G-  . 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


143 


When  we  bore  away,  I  had  the  intention  of  passing  towards  the 
assigned  situation  of  the  Aurora  Isles,  but  I  found  the  crew  so  much 
enfeebled  by  their  constant  exposure,  while  some  of  them  were 
affected  with  incipient  scurvy,  that  I  concluded  it  was  better  to  return 
to  Orange  Harbour  as  soon  as  possible.  We  encountered  great  num¬ 
bers  of  ice-islands,  of  large  size ;  but  I  shall  defer  speaking  of  their 
formation  fee.,  until  I  relate  my  second  trip  to  the  Antarctic  Circle, 
the  following  year,  and  shall  only  remark  here,  that  they  were  similar 
in  formation  and  appearance  to  those  then  seen. 

We  continued  under  easy  sail,  enveloped  in  fogs,  and  falling  in 
repeatedly  with  icebergs  close  aboard,  from  which  at  times  we  escaped 
with  difficulty. 

On  the  6tli  March  the  wind  shifted  to  the  northward,  with  snow. 
Great  numbers  of  penguins,  Cape  pigeons,  and  whales,  were  around 
the  vessel. 

The  7th  commenced  with  rain  and  snow.  The  wind  was  light  and 
from  the  westward ;  it  gradually  hauled  to  the  southwestward  and 
blew  fresh.  While  making  all  way  to  the  northward,  the  fog  lifted, 
and  high  land  was  reported  within  a  short  distance  of  us.  A  few 
moments  more,  and  we  should  have  been  wrecked.  It  proved  to  be 
Elephant  Island.  We  found  from  it  that  we  had  been  set  upwards  of 
fifty  miles  to  the  eastward,  in  the  last  four  days,  by  the  current.  We 
passed  to  leeward  of  it.  The  sea  was  too  high  to  attempt  a  landing. 
In  the  afternoon  it  cleared,  and  from  our  observations,  we  found  Cape 
Belsham,  its  eastern  point,  well  placed.  We  passed  between  it  and 
Cornwallis  Island.  The  Seal  Rocks  were  also  seen  and  observed 
upon. 

Elephant  Island  is  high  and  of  volcanic  appearance ;  its  valleys 
were  filled  with  ice  and  snow.  We  tried  the  deep-sea  temperature. 
At  the  surface  it  was  found  to  be  36°,  whilst  at  three  hundred  fathoms 
it  was  33°. 

We  now  stood  to  the  northward,  and  until  the  14th  had  continued  bad 
weather,  accompanied  with  heavy  seas.  On  this  day  we  made  the  land. 

On  the  16th  we  were  off  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  where  I  again 
tried  the  deep-sea  temperature,  with  a  wire  sounding-line,  which 
parted  at  three  hundred  and  forty  fathoms,  and  we  lost  the  apparatus. 
I  then  made  a  second  experiment,  with  a  line  of  rope  four  hundred 
fathoms  in  length.  The  temperature  of  the  surface  was  44°,  of  the 
water  below,  37°.  This  was  about  sixty  miles  to  the  eastward  of  the 
place  where  I  had  sounded  before,  on  the  1 5th  February,  when  passing 
around  Cape  Horn  in  the  Vincennes. 


144 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


March  17th,  we  had  light  winds  from  the  eastward,  and  a  smooth 
sea,  with  delightful  weather.  There  was,  however,  a  heavy  bank  of 
cumuli  to  the  south  westward,  and  after  a  few  hours’  calm,  the  wind 
came  from  that  quarter,  and  began  to  blow  fresh,  accompanied  with 
heavy  squalls.  We  did  not  succeed  that  night  in  reaching  New 
Island,  where  it  was  my  intention  to  have  anchored  and  rode  out  the 
gale.  We  in  consequence  found  ourselves  the  next  morning  thirty 
miles  to  the  eastward  of  our  position  on  the  previous  evening,  having 
drifted  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour.  From  appearances,  I 
inferred  that  the  gale  had  set  in  for  several  days ;  I  therefore  deter¬ 
mined  to  make  for  Good  Success  Bay,  and  await  the  breaking  up  of 
the  storm,  being  satisfied  we  could  make  little  progress  to  the  west¬ 
ward  during  its  continuance. 

We  anchored  in  the  bay  early  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  took  our 
boats  and  went  on  shore  for  a  few  hours.  There  was  but  little  surf 
when  we  landed,  but  it  rapidly  increased,  and  one  of  the  boats  in 
attempting  to  pass  through  it  filled,  and  after  several  ineffectual 
attempts,  did  not  succeed  in  getting  off.  A  boat  was  sent  to  their 
assistance,  but  returned  with  a  report  that  no  assistance  could  be  ren¬ 
dered  them,  and  that  they  had  determined  to  remain  until  morning. 

In  the  morning  the  surf  had  very  much  increased.  The  sea  setting 
in  the  bay,  rendered  our  situation  uncomfortable,  and  somewhat 
dangerous,  as  we  were  exposed  to  the  force  of  it  and  the  wind,  which 
had  hauled  to  the  southeast. 

At  1  p.  m.,  being  desirous  of  sending  provisions  to  the  party  on 
shore,  Lieutenant  Hartstein  was  ordered  to  take  charge  of  two  boats, 
to  communicate  with  them,  and  give  them  supplies. 

My  intention  was  to  effect  this  by  having  a  line  floated  on  shore  by 
which  to  haul  the  seal-boat  or  yawl,  having  provisions  lashed  in  her, 
through  the  surf,  by  the  party  on  shore.  Instructions  to  this  effect 
were  given  to  Lieutenant  Hartstein,  who  was  enjoined  not  to  risk  the 
lives  of  the  men.  We  watched  them  attentively  with  our  glasses. 
Shortly  after  they  had  anchored  their  boats  outside  the  surf,  we 
perceived  Lieutenant  Hartstein  and  three  men  strapping  on  their 
life-preservers,  and  preparing  themselves  for  a  landing  in  the  boat. 
I  felt  under  great  apprehensions  of  accident.  Placing,  however,  great 
confidence  in  that  officer’s  judgment,  I  was  assured  he  would  not  risk 
the  lives  of  the  men,  and  his  own,  on  such  an  occasion.  It  was  with 
great  anxiety  we  watched  their  proceedings ;  and  in  a  few  moments 
afterwards  they  were  separated  from  the  other  boat,  still  apparently 
making  preparations.  In  an  instant  they  were  borne  on  the  crest 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


145 


of  the  rollers,  and  immediately  disappeared.  Some  few  minutes 
after,  the  boat  was  seen  bottom  up  among  the  rollers.  Presently, 
the  other  boat’s  crew  were  seen  pulling  in  haste  towards  a  person ; 
one  was  picked  up,  then  another.  We  looked  intently  for  the 
rest,  but  no  signs  of  them  were  seen.  We  then  endeavoured  to 
count  the  party  on  shore,  and  we  thought  it  had  increased,  but  the 
constant  motion  of  the  vessel  rendered  it  impossible  to  keep  our 
glasses  fixed  on  them  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time  to  ascertain  their 
number.  We  now  saw  the  boat  returning ;  it  soon  reached  the 
vessel,  and  Lieutenant  Hartstein  and  Samuel  Stretch  proved  to  be 
the  two  that  had  been  saved.  Both  were  much  exhausted.  The 
persons  in  the  boat,  while  yet  at  a  distance  from  the  brig,  to  relieve 
our  anxiety,  gave  us  the  joyful  intelligence  that  Williams  and  Moore 
had  reached  the  shore  in  safety. 

Lieutenant  Hartstein,  on  recovering  from  his  exhaustion,  informed 
me,  that  on  arriving  at  the  surf  and  anchoring  the  boat,  he  found  it 
impossible  to  carry  into  effect  the  intention  of  getting  a  line  on  shore. 
He  then  concluded  that  in  the  surf-boat,  with  oars,  and  a  line  from 
the  boat  outside,  they  might  land  in  safety.  Samuel  Stretch,  John 
Williams,  and  Samuel  Moore,  volunteered  to  accompany  him.  They 
strapped  on  their  life-preservers,  with  which  they  were  provided,  and 
were  preparing  themselves  for  the  trial,  when  a  wave  curling  without 
them,  carried  them  forward  with  rapidity  ;  in  an  instant  the  boat  was 
thrown  end  over,  and  they  found  themselves  struggling  for  life  in  a 
furious  surf.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  life-preservers,  they  must  all 
have  been  drowned.  The  undertow  assisted  in  bringing  Stretch  and 
himself  out,  (neither  of  whom  could  swim,)  together  with  the  boat. 
Williams  and  Moore  swam  to  the  beach. 

The  night  proved  dark  and  stormy,  and  the  squalls  were  furious. 

The  morning  of  the  21st  dawned  with  no  better  prospect.  All  our 
endeavours  to  get  a  supply  of  provisions  to  the  party  on  shore  by 
kites,  &c.,  failed,  and  it  was  now  deemed  advisable  for  the  safety  of 
the  brig,  to  slip  our  cables  and  go  to  sea  on  the  making  of  the  flood, 
which  sets  out  of  the  bay.  Previous  to  this  time,  we  were  employed 
in  supplying  the  yawl  with  provisions,  intending  to  leave  her  as  a 
buoy  to  our  cable  and  anchor,  and  to  prevent  her  from  sinking  our 
India-rubber  life-spars  were  lashed  in  her. 

When  the  time  arrived  there  appeared  no  alteration  for  the  better. 
We  slipped  our  cable  and  stood  out  of  the  bay  under  our  storm-sails. 
A  very  heavy  sea  was  encountered  in  the  straits,  and  particularly 

37 


VOL.  I. 


146 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


in  the  race  that  is  formed  on  the  Staten  Land  side,  bnt  we  passed 
through  without  difficulty  or  accident.  When  we  got  under  the  lee  of 
that  island  we  had  smooth  water,  almost  a  calm,  and  moderate  weather. 
The  contrast  was  great  indeed,  from  the  violent  gale  we  had  just  left. 

On  the  22d  and  23d  we  had  light  winds,  and  were  drifted  to  the 
northward  some  thirty  miles,  occasionally  passing  through  rips  and 
tide  eddies.  We  had  generally  between  fifty  and  sixty  fathoms 
water,  with  soundings  of  sand,  shells,  and  coral. 

On  the  24th,  it  being  calm,  we  anchored  in  forty-four  fathoms,  off 
Cape  St.  Diego,  to  await  the  tide,  and  found  the  current  running  at 
the  greatest  strength  two  and  a  half  miles  per  hour. 

We  did  not  again  reach  Good  Success  Bay  until  the  night  of  the 
25th,  after  five  days’  absence,  when  we  found  the  party  had  got  the 
provisions,  and  were  all  well.  At  daylight  on  the  26th  they  came  on 
board.  On  the  27th  we  recovered  our  anchor,  and  on  the  28th  set 
sail  for  Orange  Harbour. 

On  the  evening  of  the  29th,  having  entered  Nassau  Bay,  (it  being 
quite  dark),  as  we  were  standing  as  we  supposed  over  for  Orange 
Harbour,  when  we  heard  the  surf,  and  suddenly  discovered  that  we 
were  close  in  and  among  the  kelp ;  we  immediately  anchored,  in  six 
fathoms. 

At  daylight  we  found  ourselves  in  a  snug  cove  of  Wollaston’s 
Island,  and  that  the  false  pack-saddle  to  the  southward  of  the  island 
had  served  to  mislead  us. 

We  were  here  visited  by  a  canoe  with  six  natives  :  two  old  women, 
two  young  men,  and  two  children.  The  two  women  were  paddling, 
and  the  fire  was  burning  in  the  usual  place.  They  approached  the 
vessel  singing  their  rude  song,  “Hey  meh  leh,”  and  continued  it  until 
they  came  alongside.  The  expression  of  the  younger  ones  was  ex¬ 
tremely  prepossessing,  evincing  much  intelligence  and  good  humour. 
They  ate  ham  and  bread  voraciously,  distending  their  large  mouths 
and  showing  a  strong  and  beautiful  set  of  teeth.  A  few  strips  of  red 
flannel  distributed  among  them  produced  great  pleasure ;  they  tied  it 
around  their  heads  as  a  sort  of  turban.  Knowing  they  were  fond  of 
music,  I  had  the  fife  played,  the  only  instrument  we  could  muster. 
They  seemed  much  struck  with  the  sound.  The  tune  of  Yankee 
Doodle  they  did  not  understand,  but  when  “Bonnets  of  Blue”  was 
played  they  all  were  in  motion  keeping  time  to  it.  The  vessel  at 
this  time  was  under  way,  and  no  presents  could  persuade  them  to 
continue  any  longer  with  us.  There  was  some  disposition  in  the 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


147 


younger  ones,  but  the  adults  refused  to  be  taken  where  the  fickleness 
of  their  climate  might  subject  them  to  be  blown  off.  We  found  them 
also  extremely  imitative,  repeating  over  our  words  and  mimicking 
our  motions.  They  were  all  quite  naked. 

I  have  seldom  seen  so  happy  a  group.  They  were  extremely  lively 
and  cheerful,  and  any  thing  but  miserable,  if  we  could  have  avoided 
contrasting  their  condition  with  our  own. 

The  colour  of  the  young  men  was  a  pale,  and  of  the  old  a  dark 
copper  colour.  Their  heads  were  covered  with  ashes,  but  their  ex¬ 
terior  left  a  pleasing  impression.  Contentment  was  pictured  in  their 
countenances  and  actions,  and  produced  a  moral  effect  that  will  long 
be  remembered. 

On  the  30th  we  reached  Orange  Harbour.  While  yet  off  the  port, 
we  made  signal  for  the  boats,  and  were  soon  joined  by  them,  and 
learnt  with  much  pleasure  that  they  were  all  well.  The  Sea-Gull 
had  returned  safely.  Lieutenant  Craven  having  entertained  some 
fears  of  the  safety  of  the  launch,  which  had  been  absent  on  a  sur¬ 
veying  excursion,  had  despatched  that  vessel  in  pursuit  of  her. 

The  Sea-Gull  returned  to  Orange  Harbour  from  the  southern 
cruise  on  the  22d  of  March,  having,  after  parting  company,  visited  as 
directed  Deception  Island.  On  the  morning  after  parting  company 
(5th  March),  Lieutenant  Johnson  gives  the  following  account  of  the 
situation  of  the  Sea-Gull :  “  The  water  was  freezing  about  the  decks, 
icicles,  forming  with  the  direction  of  the  wind,  enveloping  every 
thing,  shipping  seas  every  five  minutes,  jib  still  hanging  overboard,  it 
was  next  to  impossibility  for  us  to  make  sail,  and  we  should  even 
have  found  difficulty  in  waring  ship  to  avoid  danger ;  our  foresheets 
were  of  the  size  of  a  sloop  of  war’s  cable,  from  being  so  covered  with 
ice ;  there  was  scarce  a  sheave  that  would  traverse.”  After  encoun¬ 
tering  thick  and  foggy  weather,  they  reached  Deception  Island  on  the 
10th  of  March,  and  anchored  in  Pendulum  Cove. 

The  weather  was  extremely  unfavourable  during  his  stay  of  a 
week,  being  very  boisterous.  The  plan  of  this  bay  by  Lieutenant 
Kendall,  of  the  Chanticleer,  with  which  I  furnished  Lieutenant 
Johnson,  was  found  accurate.  On  their  landing,  the  bare  ground 
that  was  seen,  was  a  loose  black  earth.  The  beds  of  the  ravines  and 
the  beaches  were  of  a  black  and  reddish  gravel,  much  resembling 
pumice-stone  in  appearance.  Penguins  were  seen  in  countless  num¬ 
bers,  or,  as  he  expresses  it,  “  covered  some  hundreds  of  acres  on  the 
hill-side.”  It  was  then  the  moulting  season,  and  they  were  seen 


148 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


busily  occupied  in  picking  off  eacli  other’s  feathers.  It  was  an 
amusing  sight  to  see  them  associated  in  pairs,  thus  employed,  and  the 
eagerness  with  which  the  sailors  attacked  them  with  the  oars  and 
boat-hooks.  They  were  not  inclined  to  submit  quietly  to  this  intru¬ 
sion,  and  in  some  instances  readily  gave  battle.  Their  manner  in 
doing  it  was  to  seize  the  aggressor  with  their  bill,  and  beat  him  with 
their  flippers.  Their  bearing  was  quite  courageous,  and  their  retreat 
dignified,  as  far  as  their  ridiculous  waddle  would  permit.  They 
were  showy-looking  birds,  with  yellow  topknots,  and  are  known  as 
the  Aptenodytes  chryscome. 

As  an  accompaniment  to  these  penguins,  a  small  white  pigeon  was 
found  here,  quite  tame.  These  were  easily  taken  in  numbers.  They 
are  not  web-footed,  have  red  legs  and  bills,  with  perfectly  white 
though  not  fine  plumage.  They  seem  to  live  entirely  on  the  dung  of 
the  penguin,  and  their  fLesh  is  black,  coarse,  and  unpalatable.  Sailing 
up  the  bay,  they  descried  a  sea-leopard  (the  Phoca  leopardina  Jam,) 
which  Lieutenant  Johnson  succeeded  in  taking,  but  by  an  unac¬ 
countable  mistake,  the  skull,  &c.,  were  thrown  overboard.  Its 
dimensions  were  also  omitted  to  be  taken. 

Knowing  that  Captain  Foster,  in  the  Chanticleer,  had  left  here  a 
self-registering  thermometer,  in  1829,  I  directed  Lieutenant  Johnson 
to  look  for  it,  and  note  its  standing.  Immediately  on  securing  the 
tender  he  proceeded  to  search  for  it,  but  notwithstanding  the  particular 
directions,  he  did  not  find  it.  Since  my  return  home,  I  have  received 
a  letter  from  William  H.  Smiley,  master  of  a  sealing  vessel  that 
touched  there  in  February,  1842,  stating  that  he  had  found  the  ther¬ 
mometer,  and  carefully  noted  its  minimum  temperature,  which  was 
5°  below  zero. 

Lieutenant  Johnson,  in  company  with  Assistant-Surgeon  Whittle, 
visited  an  old  crater,  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  a  gentle  ascent  of 
about  four  hundred  feet  brought  them  to  the  edge  of  an  abrupt  bank, 
some  twenty  feet  high,  surrounding  the  crater  on  the  bay  side.  The 
crater  was  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  from  east  to  west, 
bounded  on  the  west  or  farther  side  by  lofty  hills,  with  many  ravines, 
which  had  apparently  been  much  washed  by  heavy  rains.  This  led 
to  the  belief  that  the  water  found  within  the  crater  would  be  fresh, 
but  its  taste,  and  the  incrustation  of  salt  found  on  its  borders,  showed 
that  it  was  not  so.  Near  the  east  end  of  the  crater,  the  water  boils  in 
many  places,  sometimes  bubbling  out  of  the  side  of  a  bank,  at  others 
near  the  water’s  edge,  with  a  hissing  noise.  The  surface  water  was 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


149 


found  to  be  on  a  level  with  the  waters  of  the  bay,  and  to  be  milk-warm. 
A  few  inches  below  it  was  perceptibly  colder.  No  thermometric  ob¬ 
servations  were  obtained.  The  ground  near  the  Boiling  Springs  was 
quite  hot.  In  the  vicinity  were  lying  quantities  of  cellular  and 
scoriaceous  lava.  The  only  sign  of  vegetation  was  a  lichen,  growing 
in  small  tufts,  around  the  mouth  of  several  small  craters,  of  three  or 
four  feet  in  diameter.  From  these  a  heated  vapour  is  constantly 
issuing,  accompanied  by  much  noise.  Before  they  returned  to  the 
tender,  they  were  overtaken  by  a  violent  snow-storm  from  the  north¬ 
east,  and  with  difficulty  reached  the  cove  without  the  boat,  having 
been  compelled  to  leave  it  at  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  for  the  force 
of  the  wind  was  such  as  to  render  all  their  efforts  to  pull  against  it 
useless.  This  weather  continued  with  much  snow  for  three  days, 
when  it  ceased  snowing,  but  still  blew  heavy.  Lieutenant  Johnson 
had  the  intention  of  carrying  their  yawl  over,  for  the  purpose  of 
sounding  in  the  crater,  to  ascertain  its  depth,  and  get  its  temperature, 
which  it  is  to  be  regretted  was  not  done.  On  the  17th  of  March  they 
sailed  from  Deception  Island,  having  left  a  bottle  enclosing  reports, 
tied  to  a  flag-staff.  This  was  afterwards  found  by  Captain  Smiley, 
who  mentions  in  his  letter  to  me,  that  in  February,  1842,  the  whole 
south  side  of  Deception  Island  appeared  as  if  on  fire.  He  counted 
thirteen  volcanoes  in  action.  He  is  of  opinion  that  the  island  is 
undergoing  many  changes.  He  likewise  reports  that  Palmer’s  Land 
consists  of  a  number  of  islands,  between  which  he  has  entered,  and 
that  the  passages  are  deep,  narrow,  and  dangerous. 

The  Sea-Gull,  after  a  stormy  passage,  reached  Orange  Harbour  on 
the  22d,  all  much  exhausted.  They  were  despatched  by  Lieutenant 
Craven  the  next  day,  as  before  stated,  in  search  of  the  launch,  (which 
had  been  absent  eleven  days,)  on  the  route  she  had  been  ordered  to 
pursue. 

In  passing  over  from  Hermit  Island  to  that  of  Evout’s,  during  a 
brisk  gale  and  heavy  sea,  the  launch,  in  towing,  filled,  broke  adrift, 
and  was  lost.  The  men  had  all  been  previously  ordered  out  of  her, 
and  most  of  the  articles  removed.  The  Sea-Gull  again  reached  Orange 
Harbour  on  the  5th. 

On  her  arrival,  finding  the  launch  had  not  completed  the  duties 
pointed  out,  I  again  despatched  the  Sea-Gull  tender,  to  finish  them, 
particularly  to  examine  and  survey  a  harbour  on  the  east  side  of 
Wollaston’s  Island.  She  accordingly  sailed  the  next  day,  and  suc¬ 
ceeded  in  performing  the  required  duty,  having  surveyed  a  very 

38 


VOL.  I. 


150 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


safe  and  convenient  harbour  on  the  east  side,  and  ascertained  that 
the  so-called  Wollaston  Island  formed  two  islands.  Leaving  to  the 
easternmost  the  name  of  Wollaston,  I  have  given  to  the  western  the 
name  of  Baily,  after  Francis  Baily,  Esq.,  the  well-known  Vice-Pre¬ 
sident  of  the  Royal  Society,  as  a  small  memento  of  the  obligation  the 
Expedition  and  myself  are  under  to  him,  for  the  great  interest  he 
took  in  the  equipments,  and  kindness  shown  me  while  in  London 
when  procuring  the  instruments.  The  harbour  that  lies  between 
these  two  islands  was  named  after  the  Sea-Gull.  A  chart  of  it  will 
be  found  in  the  Hydrographical  Atlas.  Lieutenant  Johnson  was 
again  transferred  to  the  Vincennes.  On  the  12th,  the  Flying-Fish 
arrived,  bringing  news  of  the  Peacock  and  their  operations,  which 
will  be  detailed  in  the  following  chapter. 


CAPE  HORN. 


CHAPTER  VIII 


CONTENTS. 

DEPARTURE  OF  PEACOCK  AND  FLYING-FISH  —  GALE  —  RETURN  TO  ANCHOR  — FINAL 
DEPARTURE— DIEGO  RAMIERES— GALE— SEPARATION— DEFECTIVE  OUTFITS  OF  PEACOCK- 
CURRENT— GALE— ACCIDENT  TO  WILLIAM  STEWART— HIS  RESCUE— DEATH— FIRST  ICE- 
BERG  — DIP  OBSERVATIONS— WEATHER— ICEBERGS  AND  SNOW  — GALE  — SITUATION  OF 
PEACOCK— BIRDS— AURORA  AUSTRALIS— DEEP  SEA  SOUNDING— FOG— PETRELS —  BREAK¬ 
ING  ASUNDER  OF  ICEBERGS— DENSE  FOG— DANGERS  — SNOW-STORM  — OBSERVATIONS— 
FLYING-FISH  REJOINS  —  LIEUTENANT  WALKER’S  REPORT  —  SITUATION  OF  VESSELS— 
COUNCIL  OF  OFFICERS— CAPTAIN  HUDSON  RESOLVES  TO  RETURN— WEATHER— AURORA- 
GALE— SHIP  ON  FIRE  —  FLYING-FISH  DESPATCHED  FOR  ORANGE  HARBOUR  —  GALE- 
ACCIDENT  TO  ROYAL  HOPE— PHOSPHORESCENCE  OF  SEA  — WHALE  SHIP— ARRIVAL  OF 
PEACOCK  AT  VALPARAISO  —  FIND  THE  RELIEF  —  LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT  LONG’S 
INSTRUCTIONS— DIFFICULTIES  ENCOUNTERED— GALE— TOWER  ROCKS— ANCHOR  UNDER 
NOIR  ISLAND-DANGEROUS  POSITION— LOSS  OF  ANCHORS— AWFUL  NIGHT— PART  CABLES 
—NARROW  ESCAPE— CONDUCT  OF  COMMANDANT  AND  OFFICERS— COUNCIL— DETERMINA¬ 
TION  OF  IT— PROCEED  TO  VALPARAISO— ARRIVAL  OFF  THE  PORT— COMMANDANT  LOCKE, 
H.  B.  M.  SHIP  FLY— RELIEF  ANCHORS— ARRIVAL  OF  FLYING-FISH  AT  ORANGE  HARBOUR- 
PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE  — WINDS  — TEMPERATURE  — BAROMETRICAL  RANGE— 
CLIMATE-ANIMALS-WOLF-BIRDS-ORANGE  HARBOUR-VINCENNES  AND  PORPOISE  TAKE 
THEIR  DEPARTURE— SEA-GULL  AND  FLYING-FISH  TO  AWAIT  THE  RELIEF— ANCHOR  IN 
SCAPENHAM  BAY— GALE— ORANGE  BAY— FINAL  DEPARTURE— VINCENNES  AND  PORPOISE 
PART  COMPANY— ALBATROSS  — DYSENTERY— ISLAND  OF  MOCHA— TRADE  WINDS— VIN¬ 
CENNES’  ARRIVAL  AT  VALPARAISO— ARRIVAL  OF  PORPOISE  AND  FLYING-FISH— HEAVY 
GALE— SEA-GULL  LAST  SEEN— WHALER. 


' 


.•>  '  f- 


8  H 


. 


CHAPTER  V III. 

SOUTHERN  CRUISE  — CONTINUED. 

1  8  3  9. 

At  10  a.  m.,  on  the  25th  of  February,  the  Peacock,  with  the  tender 
Flying-Fish,  got  under  way,  and  also  received  parting  cheers  from  the 
Vincennes  and  Relief  as  they  passed  out  of  the  harbour.  The  wind, 
as  with  the  Porpoise,  was  light  and  variable  until  the  afternoon, 
when  they  likewise  encountered  the  heavy  squall  from  the  southwest, 
which  with  the  thick  weather  induced  Captain  Hudson  to  regain  the 
outer  anchorage  of  Orange  Harbour,  and  remain  there  during  the 
continuance  of  the  gale.  The  next  morning,  the  weather  proving 
more  favourable,  they  again  got  under  way,  and  stood  down  the  bay, 
with  all  sail  set,  and  a  line  breeze  from  the  northward.  Although 
they  were  passing  rapidly  through  the  water,  when  off  Point  Lort 
they  found  the  flood  tide  so  strong  as  to  impede  their  progress. 
Indeed,  such  was  its  strength,  that  for  a  portion  of  the  time  they 
made  little  or  no  headway,  and  the  tide  being  contrary  to  the  wind, 
produced  a  cross  and  very  unpleasant  sea.  By  meridian  they  had 
reached  the  island  of  Diego  Ramieres. 

The  heavy  bank  of  cumuli  that  had  been  perceived  in  the  west, 
by  noon  began  to  develope  itself,  and  by  3  o’clock  they  were  under 
their  storm-sails.  The  barometer,  which  was  at  29-21  inches,  began 
to  rise  as  it  came  on.  This  gale  lasted  twenty-four  hours,  and  during 
its  continuance  the  tender  Flying-Fish  was  lost  sight  of.  Captain 
Hudson  in  his  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Walker,  notified  him  that 
the  Peacock  would  wait  twelve  hours  in  or  near  the  situation  where 
last  seen,  which  he  now  did,  but  no  tidings  being  received  of  the 
tender,  he  bore  away  for  their  first  rendezvous,  having  taken  the 
precaution  to  fix  four  places  of  meeting. 

During  the  last  gale,  from  her  bad  and  defective  outfits,  nothing 
could  be  more  uncomfortable  than  the  Peacock,  and  although  every 

39 


VOL.  I. 


1  54 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


precaution  was  taken  to  make  the  ports  tight,  yet  from  their  working 
it  was  found  impossible  to  keep  them  so. 

After  the  gale,  they  found  they  had  been  set  about  three  miles 
per  hour  to  the  southeast.  Until  the  3d  of  March  they  had  moderate 
weather.  On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  March  the  barometer 
stood  at  28-34  in.  Shortly  afterwards  it  began  to  rise,  and  a  gale  set 
in  which  blew  heavily  for  several  hours,  when  the  weather  again 
moderated,  but  the  sea  continued  very  high,  and  rendered  the  ship 
extremely  wet.  The  wind  varied  from  south  by  west  to  west-north¬ 
west. 

On  the  7th  they  again  had  squalls  of  snow  and  rain,  with  strong 
gales.  On  the  9th,  although  the  weather  had  moderated,  yet  the  sea 
wrns  very  heavy,  and  the  ship  tossed  and  tumbled  about  in  every 
direction.  William  Stewart,  captain  of  the  main  top,  was  this  day 
knocked  off  the  yard,  and  in  his  fall  struck  the  main  rigging,  but  he 
canted  and  fell  overboard,  when  he  was  seen  to  lie  quite  insensible, 
feet  up,  supported  by  his  exploring  boots,  which  were  supposed  to 
have  occasioned  his  fall.  A  bowline  was  thrown  over  them,  and  he 
was  dexterously  drawn  on  board  again.  The  ship  had  but  little 
headway,  and  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  have  lowered  a  boat, 
on  account  of  the  roughness  of  the  sea;  his  rescue  was  therefore 
almost  miraculous.  Every  care  was  taken  of  him,  but  it  was  soon 
found  that  the  violence  of  the  concussion  had  been  so  great,  that  his 
lungs  had  become  gorged  with  blood,  and  little  hopes  were  enter¬ 
tained  of  his  recovery.  After  lingering  to  the  11th  he  died.  He 
was  greatly  regretted  by  both  officers  and  men,  for  he  had  proved 
himself  an  excellent  man,  and  was  well  calculated  for  the  service. 
On  the  same  day  his  body  was  committed  to  the  deep,  with  the  usual 
ceremonies. 

This  day  they  made  the  first  iceberg.  The  only  indication  in  the 
air  or  water  at  approaching  it,  was  a  fall  of  two  degrees  in  the 
temperature  of  the  former,  and  one  degree  in  the  latter.  Their 
position  was  in  latitude  64°  S.,  and  longitude  80°  W. 

On  the  13th  the  weather  proved  fine  and  the  sea  smooth,  affording 
an  opportunity  of  making  dip  observations.  These  gave  it  75°.  The 
variation  was  33-30°  E.  Their  position  was  in  latitude  64°  27'  S., 
longitude  84°  W. 

On  the  14th,  Captain  Hudson  remarked  a  great  and  striking  change 
in  the  weather  since  they  passed  the  62°  of  south  latitude,  it  having 
become  much  more  settled,  and  free  from  the  sudden  squalls  and  con- 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


155 


stant  gales  they  had  experienced  since  leaving  Cape  Horn.  Several 
birds  were  shot  this  day,  including  an  albatross  and  many  penguins. 
Petrels  and  Cape  pigeons  were  seen.  They  now  began  to  fall  in  with 
icebergs  in  numbers.  The  temperature  of  the  water  and  air  had 
fallen  to  33°  and  32°. 

On  the  15th  and  16th  they  had  very  many  icebergs  as  their 
companions,  mostly  of  fantastic  shapes,  much  worn  and  broken, — 
disagreeable  weather,  with  snow-squalls  passing  over.  A  continued 
twilight  in  the  horizon  and  slight  appearances  of  the  aurora  were 
seen,  but  no  rays. 

They  encountered  during  the  17th  and  part  of  the  18th,  the 
heaviest  gale  and  sea  they  had  experienced  since  leaving  the  United 
States.  The  thermometer  in  the  air  stood  at  21°  of  Fahrenheit,  and 
in  the  water  at  28°.  The  ship  was  completely  coated  with  ice,  even 
to  the  gun-deck.  Every  spray  thrown  over  her  froze,  and  her  bows 
and  deck  were  fairly  packed  with  it.  The  crew  suffered  much  from 
the  gun-deck  being  constantly  wet,  and  it  being  now  covered  with 
ice,  caused  the  ship  to  be  damp  throughout. 

On  the  18th  the  gale  continued,  with  a  heavy  sea,  the  winds  now 
prevailing  more  from  the  south  and  south-southeast.  There  were 
many  birds  about  the  ship;  among  them  a  sheath-bill,  which  Mr. 
Peale  made  every  exertion  to  take,  but  without  success.  A  blue  petrel 
was,  however,  caught.  Several  icebergs  were  in  sight,  and  at  night 
they  had  a  beautiful  display  of  the  aurora  australis,  extending  from 
south-southwest  to  east.  The  rays  were  of  many  colours,  radiating 
towards  the  zenith,  and  reaching  an  altitude  of  30°.  Several  brilliant 
meteors  were  also  observed. 

Hot  coffee  was  now  served  to  the  crew  at  midnight,  or  at  relieving 
of  the  watch,  which  proved  exceedingly  acceptable.  The  tempera¬ 
ture  of  the  air  had  fallen  to  22°,  and  of  the  water  to  28°. 

On  the  1 9th  they  had  another  display  of  the  aurora,  and  it  exhi¬ 
bited  a  peculiar  effect.  In  the  southern  quarter  there  was  an 
appearance  of  a  dense  cloud,  resembling  a  shadow  cast  upon  the 
sky,  and  forming  an  arch  about  10°  in  altitude.  Above  this  were 
seen  coruscations  of  light,  rendering  all  objects  around  the  ship 
visible.  F rom  behind  this  cloud  diverging  rays  frequently  shot  up 
to  an  altitude  of  from  25°  to  45°.  These  appearances  continued  until 
day  dawned.  The  night  was  remarkably  fine,  and  many  shooting 
stars  were  observed.  The  barometer  stood  at  29-77  in.  During-  the 
afternoon  of  this  day  a  fog-bank  was  perceived  in  the  southwestern 


156 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


quarter,  and  they  were  a  short  time  afterwards  completely  enveloped 
in  a  fog  so  dense  and  thick,  that  they  could  not  see  twice  the  length 
of  the  ship.  Fortunately,  before  it  closed  in,  they  were  enabled  to 
get  good  bearings  of  the  different  icebergs  in  sight,  and  particularly 
of  those  which  closely  surrounded  them. 

On  the  20th  they  had  moderate  weather  with  fogs.  They  had 
now  reached  the  longitude  of  90°  W.,  latitude  68°  S.,  and  obtained  a 
sight  of  the  icy  barrier.  The  fog  becoming  dense,  they  were  obliged 
to  heave  the  ship  to,  and  the  sea  being  smooth,  they  took  the 
opportunity  to  sound  with  the  deep  sea  line,  with  the  apparatus 
for  temperature.  The  line  being  of  copper  wire,  they  succeeded  in 
getting  out  eight  hundred  fathoms  of  it,  but  when  they  began  to  reel 
it  up,  it  parted,  and  the  whole  was  lost.  The  noise  of  the  sea  beating 
on  the  icebergs  was  frequently  heard  close  aboard,  and  several  loud 
sounds  resembling  thunder,  which  they  imputed  to  the  breaking 
asunder  and  turning  over  of  large  icebergs. 

The  dip  was  also  tried,  and  was  made  78° ;  the  variation  was  found 
to  be  33°  easterly.  On  the  fog  lifting  they  found  themselves  in  near 
proximity  to  icebergs  and  field  ice.  Some  few  petrels  were  seen 
about  the  ship  of  a  different  species  from  any  heretofore  observed  by 
us.  All  trials  to  obtain  one  proved  unsuccessful. 

During  the  whole  of  the  21st  they  could  not  venture  to  run,  in 
consequence  of  the  dense  fog,  which  lasted  all  day,  with  the  ex¬ 
ception  of  about  an  hour.  Mr.  Peale  having  shot  one  of  the  petrels, 
of  the  same  kind  as  seen  the  day  before,  a  boat  was  lowered  to  pick  it 
up,  of  which  advantage  was  taken  to  try  the  current.  It  was  found 
setting  one  third  of  a  mile  per  hour  to  the  northwest  by  west. 

The  22d  proved  also  foggy.  At  daylight  the  fog  lifted  for  a  few 
moments,  and  they  discovered  the  icy  barrier  extending  from  north¬ 
east  by  north  to  southeast  by  east.  At  about  9  a.  m.  the  fog  again 
lifted,  when  they  discovered  icebergs  all  around  them,  rendering  their 
position  extremely  dangerous.  Every  endeavour  was  made  to  effect 
their  escape  as  soon  as  possible.  Besides  petrels,  Cape  pigeons,  &c., 
a  flock  of  tern  were  seen. 

The  wind  continuing  from  the  northward  and  westward,  they  wore 
ship  to  the  northward.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  day,  considering 
their  situation  in  the  vicinity  of  so  many  icebergs  too  dangerous  to 
be  held  under  such  circumstances,  they  therefore  made  sail  and  ran 
off  to  seek  a  more  open  sea.  Many  whales  were  seen  and  heard 
during  the  last  few  days. 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE.  157 

On  the  23d  it  partly  cleared,  and  the  fog  having  been  succeeded 
by  a  snow-storm,  the  wind  hauled  to  the  west,  with  a  heavy  bank  of 
clouds  in  that  quarter.  The  barometer  showed  no  indication  of  a 
gale ;  the  weather  turned  out  thick,  and  prevented  them  from  seeing 
any  distance.  They  had  some  severe  squalls,  accompanied  with 
snow.  On  the  24th,  the  wind  hauling  to  the  northward  and  west¬ 
ward,  brought  snow  and  thick  weather,  with  some  heavy  squalls. 
Many  icebergs  were  met  with,  which  were  fortunately  avoided. 
A  sharp  look-out  was  kept  for  them,  and  the  ship  put  in  readiness 
to  perform  any  manoeuvre  that  might  he  desirable.  Some  of  the 
icebergs  were  two  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water, 
and  of  a  pinnacle  shape.  The  snow  continued  to  fall  fast,  rendering 
the  ship  uncomfortably  wet. 

■  On  the  25th  the  fog  continued  until  near  meridian.  Many  birds 
were  seen  about  the  ship,  and  many  fin-back  whales.  They  obtained 
a  meridian  observation,  the  first  for  the  last  six  days,  and  found 
themselves  in  the  latitude  of  68°  S.,  longitude  97°  58'  W.  Here, 
in  the  evening,  to  their  great  joy,  they  fell  in  with  the  tender  Flying- 
Fish.  On  her  near  approach,  all  hands  were  turned  up,  and  gave 
her  three  hearty  cheers.  Lieutenant  Walker  came  on  board,  and 
reported  to  Captain  Hudson  as  follows  : 

That  he  had  visited  all  the  appointed  rendezvous  in.  hopes  of 
falling  in  with  the  Peacock,  but  without  success,  having  encountered 
very  severe  and  boisterous  weather.  On  the  18th  they  left  the 
fourth  rendezvous,  having  passed  the  17th  in  its  vicinity.  They  then 
turned  towards  the  south  for  Cook’s  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  and  continued 
their  way  to  the  southward.  The  weather  was  at  times  very  thick, 
the  ice  islands  became  numerous,  and  they  occasionally  passed  a 
little  floating  ice.  On  the  18th  the  ice  became  abundant,  and  floated 
in  large  masses  around  them.  At  4  a.  m.  the  water  was  much  dis¬ 
coloured,  and  some  of  the  ice  also  having  the  appearance  of  being 
but  lately  detached  from  the  land.  They  obtained  a  cast  of  the  lead, 
hut  found  no  bottom  at  one  hundred  fathoms.  At  8  o’clock  the  fog 
lifted,  and  discovered,  to  the  amazement  of  all,  a  wall  of  ice  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high,  extending  east  and  west  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  and  spreading  out  into  a  vast  and  seemingly  boundless 
field  to  the  south.  This  wrall  was  formed  of  masses  of  all  sizes,  and 
various  shapes  and  colours.  Their  latitude  at  this  time  was  about 
67°  30'  S.,  longitude  105°  W.  The  weather  becoming  thick,  they 
stood  to  the  northward,  and  soon  ran  into  blue  water. 


VOL.  I. 


40 


158 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


On  the  21st,  at  7  a.  m.,  they  saw  the  ice  extending  in  broken 
ranges  from  south  by  east  to  northeast,  and  the  sea  extending  round 
to  the  westward.  At  8  o’clock,  the  water  was  again  much  dis¬ 
coloured,  and  many  large  icebergs  were  around.  At  meridian  their 
latitude  was  68°  41'  S.,  longitude  103°  34'  W.,  when  they  again 
stood  to  the  southward,  running  among  the  ice  islands  with  a  fair 
wind,  flattering  themselves  that  they  should  before  noon  of  the  next 
day  get  further  south  than  Cook  had.  But  their  hopes  were  soon 
blasted ;  for  the  weather  became  thick,  and  they  were  in  consequence 
obliged  to  heave  to.  The  wind  soon  freshened  to  a  gale,  accompanied 
by  a  heavy  sea. 

March  22d,  from  midnight  to  4  o’clock,  a  fresh  gale,  with  rain. 
The  weather  lighting  up  at  intervals,  made  them  aware  that  they 
were  in  the  midst  of  innumerable  ice  islands,  so  closely  packed  as 
scarcely  to  afford  a  passage  between  them.  At  4,  the  wind  still 
continuing  fresh  and  the  weather  misty,  they  stood  to  the  northward 
and  eastward.  The  weather  grew  thicker  and  became  colder. 
Shortly  after  the  fog  lifted,  and  they  found  themselves  surrounded 
by  narrow  fields  of  ice,  with  contracted  passages  between  them, 
extending  in  a  direction  perpendicular  to  that  of  the  wind.  As  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach  were  icebergs,  packed  and  floating,  in  all  direc¬ 
tions.  After  a  short  examination,  some  places  appeared  where  the 
ice  was  not  so  compact.  At  one  of  these  they  succeeded  in  passing 
through.  Fresh  gales  and  thick  weather  followed,  and  they  still 
passed  numbers  of  icebergs,  of  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet  in 
height,  with  the  sea  breaking  on  them. 

On  the  morning  of  the  23d,  their  latitude  was  70°  S.,  longitude 
100°  16'  W.  The  weather  proved  clear.  In  the  afternoon  they 
again  stood  to  the  southward  and  eastward  for  three  hours,  when 
they  observed  the  appearance  of  land,  and  discovered  large  masses  of 
ice  and  numerous  icebergs.  At  midnight  the  southern  horizon  was 
beautifully  illuminated  with  the  aurora  australis. 

On  the  24th  of  March  they  had  a  heavy  fall  of  snow ;  passed  many 
icebergs,  and  large  quantities  of  floating  ice  ;  got  suddenly  into  large 
fields  of  packed  and  broken  ice,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  in  all  directions,  which,  with  the  accumulation  of  snow, 
appeared  to  be  rapidly  becoming  solid.  They  lost  no  time  in  forcing 
their  way  out.  All  on  board  were  of  opinion,  that  within  a  short 
time  after  they  cleared  it,  it  became  a  firm  field  of  ice.  The  latitude 
observed  was  69°  06',  longitude  96°  50'  W. 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


159 


Having  on  two  occasions  narrowly  escaped  being  closed  in  by  the 
ice,  Lieutenant  Walker  had  determined  to  return,  and  was  making 
his  way  to  the  north  when  he  fell  in  with  the  Peacock. 

The  nights  having  become  long,  with  the  interruptions  occasioned 
by  fogs  and  snow-storms,  afforded  but  little  time  for  running  the 
vessels  among  the  icebergs,  whose  numbers  rendered  the  navigation 
extremely  hazardous.  The  condition  of  the  Peacock  for  a  winter’s 
campaign,  was  miserable,  and  on  board  the  Flying-Fish  there  was  no 
protection  in  the  event  of  being  frozen  in.  The  positive  nature  of 
his  instructions,  combined  with  the  report  of  Lieutenant  Walker, 
convinced  Captain  Hudson  of  the  necessity  of  turning  the  vessels’ 
heads  towards  a  more  temperate  climate.  On  holding  a  council  with 
his  officers,  he  found  them  all  of  the  opinion  that  the  season  for  active 
operations  in  these  latitudes  had  passed,  and  that  it  was  advisable  for 
the  vessels  to  proceed  without  delay  to  the  north. 

He  remarks  in  his  report  (which,  together  with  Lieutenant  Walker’s, 
will  be  found  in  Appendix  XXXI.),  ‘‘That  it  required  more  moral 
courage  than  I  can  well  describe,  to  bring  my  mind  to  this  decision, 
for  we  had  at  that  moment  less  ice  about  us  than  at  any  time  since 
we  had  entered  among  it ;  but  I  felt  satisfied,  taking  all  things  into 
consideration,  that  nothing  more  could  be  done  at  this  late  season, 
and  that  it  would  be  recklessly  hazarding  the  lives  of  those  entrusted 
to  my  care,  jeoparding  the  vessels,  and  of  great  detriment  to  the 
future  operations  of  the  Expedition,  which  an  honest  conviction  of 
the  duty  I  owed  my  country,  most  decidedly  forbade.”  The  vessels 
accordingly  steered  to  the  northward. 

The  weather,  during  the  cruise  south,  was  exceedingly  unfavour¬ 
able,  for  with  few  exceptions  during  their  stay  in  the  Antarctic 
circle,  they  were  enveloped  in  dense  fogs,  or  found  only  occasional 
relief  from  them  in  falls  of  snow.  The  crew  during  the  whole  time 
enjoyed  an  unusual  degree  of  health,  which  is  not  a  little  surprising, 
for,  since  leaving  Orange  Flarbour,  the  state  of  the  ship  had  been 
such  as  to  promote  disease.  The  precautions  and  endeavours  to  keep 
the  men  dry,  entirely  failed,  from  the  condition  of  the  ship,  heretofore 
referred  to. 

On  the  night  of  the  26th,  they  had  again  a  slight  display  of  the 
aurora,  its  radiations  extending  30°  in  altitude.  Fresh  gales  blew 
from  the  northwest,  with  a  heavy  sea,  so  that  the  tender  found 
difficulty  in  keeping  company,  and  they  reduced  sail  in  order  to 
avoid  parting  with  her. 


160 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


The  fresh  gales  continued  on  the  27th,  accompanied  with  rain. 
Towards  night  it  cleared  a  little,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  young 
moon,  they  were  enabled  to  run  through  the  ice. 

The  weather  proved  thick  on  the  28th  and  29th,  and  they  had  little 
opportunity  of  making  progress  to  the  north,  against  the  northwest 
winds,  which  were  light.  On  this  night  a  new  danger  beset  them, 
that  of  being  consumed  by  fire  !  At  midnight,  on  the  29th  of  March, 
they  were  aroused  by  the  smell  of  burning  and  smoke,  issuing  from 
the  main  hold.  The  usual  orders  were  given  relative  to  the  maga¬ 
zine.  The  drum  beat  to  quarters.  On  opening  the  main  hatch,  smoke 
issued  out  in  volumes,  and  fire  was  discovered  under  it,  proceeding 
from  a  bag  in  full  blaze.  This  was  soon  passed  on  deck,  and  the 
fire  extinguished.  It  was  fortunately  discovered  in  time,  and  was 
found  to  proceed  from  a  quantity  of  coffee,  which  had  been  put 
below,  in  the  bag,  after  it  had  been  burnt  or  roasted,  the  previous 
afternoon. 

On  the  1st  of  April,  in  latitude  60°  12'  S.,  longitude  84°  20'  W., 
Captain  Hudson  despatched  the  tender  to  Orange  Harbour,  with  his 
reports  to  me,  and  continued  his  route  to  Valparaiso.  The  last 
icebergs  seen,  were  in  latitude  62°  30'  S.,  longitude  87°  41'  W.; 
the  temperature  of  air  33° ;  of  water  35°. 

Captain  Hudson  speaks  in  the  highest  terms  of  his  officers  and 
crew ;  of  their  promptness  and  efficiency  in  the  performance  of  their 
respective  duties,  and  of  their  cordial  co-operation  in  carrying  out 
his  views. 

They  experienced  a  gale  of  wind  on  the  6th  and  7th  of  April,  in 
which  the  barometer  fell  to  28-71  inches.  Some  of  the  squalls  were 
remarkably  heavy,  and  the  sea  high  and  topping.  The  gale  began 
at  northwest,  varying  to  the  eastward,  and  suddenly  changed  to 
west-southwest,  latitude  52°  47'  S.,  longitude  84°  W. 

On  the  9th,  Royal  Hope,  ordinary  seaman,  fell  from  aloft,  but  did 
not  experience  any  injury.  In  latitude  51°  S.,  longitude  82°  W., 
the  sea  again  showed  signs  of  phosphorescence :  temperature  of  the 
water  was  46°. 

On  the  11th,  they  had  reached  the  latitude  of  47°  30'  S.,  longitude 
80°  W.,  and  the  weather  began  to  moderate,  having  passed  the 
stormy  latitudes  of  from  50°  to  60°  S.,  where  the  heaviest  winds  and 
seas  are  met  with. 

The  wind,  on  the  13th  of  April,  in  the  latitude  of  40°  S.,  began 
to  draw  to  the  eastward,  and  gradually  passed  into  the  trade  wind. 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


161 


The  15th  of  April  was  the  first  fair  day  they  had  had  since  the 
25th  of  F ebruary. 

On  the  16th  of  April,  they  had  much  phosphorescence,  appearing 
as  it  were  in  sheets  of  liquid  fire  :  the  temperature  of  the  water  58° ; 
latitude  36°  S.,  longitude  75°  W. 

On  the  17th,  they  spoke  the  whale  ship  Francis,  and  afforded  her 
medical  assistance.  Until  the  20th,  they  had  very  light  airs,  in¬ 
clining  to  calms.  On  the  evening  of  the  19th,  they  made  the  land  of 
Chili;  and  on  the  21st,  the  Peacock  arrived  in  Valparaiso,  where  to 
their  surprise  they  found  our  store-ship  the  Relief,  which  had  arrived 
at  Valparaiso  some  days  previous. 

The  Relief  left  Orange  Harbour  on  the  26th  of  February,  (a  copy 
of  her  instructions  will  be  found  in  Appendix  XXX.,)  for  the  purpose  of 
visiting  various  places  in  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  to  afford  an  oppor¬ 
tunity  of  making  investigations,  and  opening  a  larger  field  for  our 
naturalists  during  the  fifty  or  sixty  days  they  were  to  be  detained 
on  the  coast.  Most  of  the  scientific  gentlemen  were  accordingly 
transferred  to  her ;  and  she  was  ordered  to  enter  the  Brecknock 
Passage,  and  thence  into  Cockburn  Sound,  of  which  we  had  King’s 
valuable  chart;  and  I  thought  that  the  passage  into  the  strait  was 
more  feasible,  and  might  be  sooner  accomplished  by  that  route  than 
by  taking  the  eastern  passage,  particularly  as  the  wind  was  favourable. 
I  also  thought  it  would  enable  them  to  explore  more  parts  of  the 
straits,  and  those  which  had  been  least  visited. 

Various  difficulties  prevented  her  reaching  the  entrance  to  the 
Brecknock  Passage,  principally  that  of  keeping  too  far  off  the  coast 
on  long  tacks  to  the  southward. 

On  the  17th  of  March,  after  being  at  sea  twenty  days,  they  ap¬ 
proached  the  coast,  and  a  gale  ensuing  from  the  southwest,  Lieutenant- 
Commandant  Long,  on  the  following  day,  determined  to  run  in  and 
anchor  under  Noir  Island,  which  is  spoken  of  by  King  as  an  excellent 
harbour.  The  wind  was  blowing  a  gale  from  the  southwest,  with  thick 
weather  and  hail  squalls.  Noir  Island  was  discovered  under  the  lee, 
judged  to  be  about  twelve  miles  distant,  when  they  steered  for  it.  It 
becoming  thick,  they  did  not  discover  the  Tower  Rocks  until  they 
were  almost  up  with,  and  just  had  time  to  clear  them.  These  rocks 
presented  a  magnificent  and  fearful  sight,  the  sea  breaking  completely 
over  them.  Three  anchors  were  prepared.  They  rounded  the  south¬ 
east  point  of  the  island,  and  stood  in  for  the  bay.  At  about  5  o’clock 
they  anchored  in  seventeen  fathoms,  and  the  anchor  took  effect. 

41 


VOL.  I. 


162 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


On  the  morning  of  the  19th,  the  highest  point  of  Noir  Island  was 
seen,  capped  with  snow;  the  wind  had  abated  somewhat,  but  not 
enough  to  permit  of  their  landing  in  a  snug  little  cove  abreast  of  them. 
In  the  afternoon  the  wind  again  increased,  and  another  anchor  was  let 
go.  There  was  much  sea,  and  the  ship  rode  very  uneasy  at  her 
anchor.  The  sea  broke  tremendously  on  the  reef  astern,  shooting  up 
in  columns,  such  as  are  seen  to  appear  under  the  effect  of  mirage. 
After  it  became  dark  the  wind  shifted  to  the  southward  and  eastward, 
which  brought  the  sea  from  that  quarter,  and  exposed  them  more  both 
to  it  and  the  wind.  The  anchors  shortly  after  began  to  drag,  and 
the  vessel  was  urged  in  the  direction  of  a  rock.  Fortunately  the 
wind  abated  towards  morning,  and  came  from  its  old  quarter,  south¬ 
west,  more  off  the  land,  but  still  blew  with  violence. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th,  one  of  their  chain  cables  was  found 
to  have  parted.  The  chain  was  hove  in  with  some  difficulty  and 
another  anchor  let  go.  The  weather  towards  evening  became  again 
threatening,  and  produced  no  little  anxiety.  At  nightfall  it  shifted 
in  the  same  way  it  had  done  the  previous  evening,  blowing  again 
heavily.  The  ship  was  felt  to  be  constantly  dragging,  accompanied 
by  that  grating  kind  of  noise  of  the  chain  moving  on  the  bottom, 
which  is  any  thing  but  agreeable.  The  rock  astern,  together  with 
the  reef  toward  which  the  wind  and  sea  were  both  setting-  the 
ship,  rendered  their  situation  truly  appalling.  The  prospect  of  any 
one  surviving,  in  case  they  had  struck,  was  extremely  slight.  The 
night  was  dark  and  stormy,  and  the  dragging  continued  occasionally 
until  midnight,  when  they  found  they  had  passed  and  escaped 
the  rock,  and  were  near  the  reef.  They  now  shipped  a  heavy 
sea  over  the  bows,  the  shock  of  which  was  so  great  that  it  parted 
their  cables,  and  their  drifting  became  rapid.  From  the  set  of  the 
current,  they  just  cleared  the  reef.  When  the  point  of  the  island 
bore  east  of  south,  they  slipped  their  cables,  wore  round,  and  made 
sail;  and  on  the  21st,  at  daybreak,  they  found  themselves  off  Cape 
Gloucester. 

The  conduct  of  Lieutenant-Commandant  Long,  his  officers  and 
men,  during  the  perilous  situation  in  which  the  Relief  was  placed, 
deserves  great  praise;  they  did  their  duty  in  every  respect.  On 
getting  to  sea,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Long,  with  a  council  of  offi¬ 
cers,  opened  his  sealed  instructions,  which  directed  him  to  proceed 
to  Valparaiso  in  the  event  of  not  finding  me  on  his  return  to  Orange 
Harbour,  and  concluded  to  make  for  Valparaiso,  off  which  port  he 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


163 


arrived  on  the  13th  of  April,  without  anchors,  which  soon  became 
known  to  Commandant  Locke,  of  her  Britannic  Majesty’s  ship  Fly. 
He,  in  the  most  prompt  and  handsome  manner,  despatched  a  boat 
with  an  anchor  to  the  assistance  of  the  Relief,  and  it  affords  me  great 
pleasure  to  acknowledge  the  obligation  we  felt  under  to  him.  The 
next  day  the  Relief  anchored  in  the  bay  of  Valparaiso. 

But  to  return  to  Orange  Harbour. 

The  Flying-Fish  arrived  on  the  11th  April.  The  duties  of  the 
observatory  having  been  completed,  the  instruments  were  embarked, 
and  every  thing  made  ready  for  our  departure  During  the  Vin¬ 
cennes’  stay  here  of  sixty  days,  we  found  the  weather  exceedingly 
changeable.  The  winds  prevailed  forty-seven  days  from  the  west¬ 
ward,  twelve  days  from  the  north  and  eastward,  and  one  from  the 
southeast.  The  mean  temperature  was  44-36° ;  maximum,  56°, 
minimum,  32°.  During  this  time  there  were  eleven  gales  of  wind, 
of  from  two  to  three  days’  duration. 

The  mean  range  of  the  barometer  was  29-801  in. ;  its  movement  in 
predicting  the  weather,  was  directly  opposite  to  that  observed  in 
other  latitudes,  the  gales  always  commencing  when  the  barometer 
began  to  rise,  fine  weather  generally  continuing  until  it  reached  its 
minimum,  29-109  in.,  to  which  it  sinks  in  from  twenty -four  to  thirty- 
six  hours,  and  where  it  remained  stationary  for  a  few  hours,  during 
all  which  time  the  weather  continued  good.  As  the  barometer 
begins  to  rise,  the  gales  come  on,  and  continue  until  the  mercury 
again  reaches  nearly  its  maximum  point,  30-244  in. 

There  were  but  few  days  on  which  rain  did  not  fall  during  some 
portion  of  the  twenty-four  hours,  but  seldom  heavily ;  lightning  and 
thunder  occurred  once  during  the  time.  The  climate  may  be  called 
extremely  boisterous,  although  from  the  fact  of  the  natives  being 
without  any  kind  of  covering,  one  would  suppose  it  cannot  be  very 
variable  as  to  temperature,  throughout  the  year.  The  want  of 
clothing  is  not,  however,  peculiar  to  all  the  natives;  those  seen  at 
Good  Success  Bay  were  well  covered  with  guanacoe-skins,  and  are 
a  finer-looking  and  taller  race  of  men. 

Observations  of  any  kind  are  difficult  to  be  had  at  Orange  Harbour, 
both  by  day  and  night. 

While  Lieutenant  Carr  and  his  party  were  at  the  observatory,  a 
wolf  was  seen,  at  which  Midshipman  Clark  fired,  but  supposed  he 
was  not  shot.  The  next  morning  he  was  found  dead  at  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  from  the  place.  He  appeared  very  ferocious  and  fearless.  Mr. 


164 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


Drayton  made  a  correct  drawing  of  him,  and  a  number  of  measure¬ 
ments  were  taken.  The  hair  was  long  over  the  whole  body,  and 
that  about  the  neck  and  shoulders  stood  erect.  It  was  a  male, 
weighed  fifteen  pounds  and  three  quarters,  and  measured  from  nose 
to  tip  of  tail,  three  feet  six  and  three-fourths  inches,  and  stood  sixteen 
inches  and  a  half  high ;  colour  of  back,  top  of  head  and  tail,  gray,  the 
latter  with  a  tuft  of  black  at  its  end ;  sides  of  head  and  outside  of  legs 
reddish  brown ;  white  between  the  legs  and  on  the  belly.  Dr.  Fox 
some  days  afterwards  shot  a  female  near  the  same  place;  she  had 
attacked  one  of  the  men  and  seized  his  pea-jacket. 

The  wolf  is  the  only  land  animal  that  is  a  native  of  the  soil,  and  is 
supposed  the  same  as  that  described  by  Captain  King.  The  natives 
have  many  dogs. 

Of  land  birds,  we  found  the  upland  goose,  a  most  beautiful  eagle, 
a  few  plover,  and  some  small  birds.  There  are  great  quantities  of 
wild  fowl,  geese,  ducks,  and  the  usual  sea  birds,  to  be  seen  at  all 
times  in  the  harbour,  where  they  find  abundance  of  food  among  the 
kelp. 

A  number  of  burnt  human  bones  were  dug  up  in  a  cave,  but 
whether  the  natives  burn  their  dead  or  not,  we  had  no  opportunity  of 
ascertaining. 

Orange  Harbour  is  a  most  excellent  place  to  obtain  wood  and 
water.  The  latter  is  easily  procured,  and  of  good  quality.  Winter- 
bark  may  be  obtained  here  in  large  quantities;  scurvy-grass  and 
wild  celery  are  also  plentiful  around  the  shores;  and  fish  are  in 
abundance. 

As  a  resort  for  vessels  in  distress  or  affected  with  scurvy,  &c.  &c., 
this  port  may  be  recommended  as  being  the  only  one  on  this  coast 
that  offers  a  safe  and  convenient  harbour  to  supply  their  wants. 

On  the  17th  April,  the  time  having  expired  for  the  return  of  the 
Relief,  I  concluded  to  leave  Orange  Harbour  with  the  Vincennes  and 
Porpoise.  Believing  the  Relief  had  been  detained,  the  Flying-Fish 
and  Sea-Gull  tenders  were  both  left  to  await  her  arrival,  for  ten  days, 
to  take  the  scientific  gentlemen  on  board,  and  join  us  at  Valparaiso,  in 
order  to  prevent  detention  by  the  slow  sailing  of  that  ship. 

We  got  under  way,  but  the  wind  drawing  ahead,  with  appearances 
of  bad  weather,  we  anchored  in  Scapenham  Bay.  The  weather 
becoming  stormy,  and  thinking  the  place  in  which  we  were  anchored 
too  much  exposed,  we  got  under  way,  ran  back  and  anchored  in 
Orange  Bay. 


SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 


165 


Before  leaving  these  desolate  and  stormy  regions,  it  may  be  expected 
that  I  should  say  a  few  words  relative  to  the  passage  round  the  Cape. 
There  are  so  many  opinions  relative  to  the  best  manner  of  proceeding 
in  this  navigation,  that  one  in  consulting  them  derives  but  little 
satisfaction,  no  two  authorities  agreeing  in  their  views  upon  the 
subject.  I  am  inclined  to  believe  as  much  depends  upon  the  vessel, 
and  the  manner  in  which  she  is  navigated,  as  the  route  pursued, 
whether  the  Cape  is  passed  close  to,  or  given  a  good  berth :  the  object 
of  all  is  to  pass  it  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  taking  into  consideration 
the  difficulties  to  be  incurred  from  boisterous  weather,  heavy  seas, 
and  ice,  it  is  impossible  to  point  out  the  course  at  any  time  it  may 
be  advisable  to  pursue  ;  that  which  appears  most  feasible  at  the  time 
ought  to  be  adopted,  keeping,  however,  in  view,  that  there  is  no 
danger  to  be  apprehended  in  navigating  on  the  western  coast  of  Terra 
del  Fuego,  as  the  current  sets  along  its  coast,  and  it  is  perfectly  safe 
and  practicable  to  navigate  it  as  far  as  Cape  Pillar.  The  great 
difficulty  exists  in  passing  the  pitch  of  the  Cape ;  there  is  none  after 
it  in  getting  to  the  westward.  On  the  coast,  the  wind  seldom  blows 
long  from  the  same  quarter,  but  veers  from  southwest  to  northwest : 
the  gales  generally  begin  at  the  former  quarter  and  end  at  the  latter. 
Previous  to  the  southwest  gales,  it  would,  therefore,  in  all  cases,  be 
advisable,  when  indications  of  their  occurrence  are  visible,  (wffiich  are 
known  by  the  banks  of  cumuli  in  that  quarter,  some  twenty-four 
hours  previously,)  to  stand  to  the  southward  and  westward  in  pre¬ 
ference,  with  as  much  sail  as  well  can  be  carried,  that  when  the 
change  occurs,  you  may  be  ready  to  stand  on  the  other  tack  to  the 
northward.  One  thing  every  navigator  ought  to  bear  in  mind,  that  it 
requires  all  the  activity  and  perseverance  he  may  be  possessed  of  to 
accomplish  it  quickly. 

On  the  20th  we  took  our  final  leave  of  these  waters,  and  on  the 
21st  lost  sight  of  land,  passing  to  the  northward  of  the  island  of  Diego 
Bamieres. 

On  the  23d,  during  a  strong  gale,  we  parted  company  with  the 
Porpoise.  On  the  28th,  found  ourselves  in  longitude  78°  30'  W., 
latitude  56°  30'  S.,  when  I  kept  away  to  the  northward,  it  blowing 
violently  from  the  southward  and  westward,  with  a  heavy  sea. 

On  the  30th,  we  had  reached  the  latitude  of  43°  S.,  longitude 
76°  W.,  when  the  wind  came  out  from  the  northward.  It  being  a 
mild  day  we  caught  several  fine  albatrosses,  ten  feet  six  inches  from 
wing  to  wing,  with  a  small  hook.  They  were  preserved  as  specimens. 

42 


VOL.  I. 


166  SOUTHERN  CRUISE. 

Immediately  after  leaving  Orange  Harbour,  dysentery  made  its 
appearance  on  board,  and  ran  through  the  whole  ship’s  company. 
Some  of  the  officers  were  also  affected.  It  proved  of  a  very  mild 
type,  and  readily  yielded  to  medical  treatment.  Upon  onr  arrival  at 
Y alparaiso  it  had  entirely  disappeared.  The  medical  officers  were 
unable  to  account  for  it,  the  health  of  the  ship’s  company  having  been 
very  good  during  our  stay  at  Orange  Harbour.  It  was  not  thought 
to  be  owing  to  the  water,  as  they  had  been  using  it  for  two  months 
without  any  bad  effect,  but  I  think  must  be  imputed  to  the  cold  and 
wet  we  experienced  the  first  part  of  the  passage. 

On  the  10th  we  made  the  island  of  Mocha.  The  northerly  wind 
continued  until  the  11th  of  May,  when  we  had  a  gale  for  several 
hours.  The  barometer  indicated  this  gale  by  a  fall  of  -300  in.  This 
seemed  to  break  up  our  adverse  winds,  and  we  were  shortly  after¬ 
wards  enabled  to  lay  our  course.  This  was  the  first  fair  wind  for 
nine  days,  the  head  winds  having  continued  from  the  2d  till  the  11th 
instant. 

On  the  13th,  in  latitude  36°,  we  took  the  trade  winds;  Cape  pigeons 
and  albatrosses  still  continuing  with  us. 

On  the  15th  we  made  the  land  off  Valparaiso,  and  before  noon 
anchored  in  the  bay,  where  we  found  the  Peacock,  and  received 
tidings  that  the  Relief  had  sailed  with  the  store-ship  Mariposa  for 
Callao.  The  Porpoise  arrived  on  the  16th,  and  the  Flying-Fish 
reached  Valparaiso  on  the  19th,  after  having  experienced  extremely 
boisterous  weather. 


RELIEF  AT  NOIR  ISLAND. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


CONTENTS. 

APPROACH  THE  COAST— CORDILLERAS— VISIT  TO  AUTHORITIES  OF  VALPARAISO— LAND¬ 
ING  OF  INSTRUMENTS  —  CUSTOM-HOUSE  OFFICERS  —  MR.  COOD  —  OBSERVATORY  —  G. 
G.  HOBSON,  ESQ.  —  NORTHERS  —  PERCEPTIBLE  CHANGE  IN  THE  BAY  —  VALPARAISO — 
DESCRIPTION  OF  IT— ITS  ORDER  AND  GOVERNMENT  — TRAIT  OF  CHILIANS  —  POLICE  — 
THEIR  SIGNAL-SHOPS  —  AMUSEMENTS  —  CHINGANO  —  DANCES  —  SAMACUECA  —  HIGHER 
CLASSES— DRESS  — TASTE  FOR  MUSIC  —  FONDNESS  FOR  FLOWERS  —  GENERAL  PRIETO 
—HONOURS  PAID  HIM— BALL— DESCRIPTION  OF  IT. 


. 


■ 


. 


■ 


- 


CHAPTER  IX. 

CHILI. 

1839. 

On  approaching  the  coast  of  Chili,  every  one  is  anxious  to  get  a 
sight  of  the  Cordilleras.  There  are  only  two  periods  during  the  day 
in  which  they  can  be  seen  to  advantage,  viz. :  in  the  morning  before 
sunrise,  and  in  the  evening  at  sunset.  The  first  is  the  most  striking 
view.  The  outline  is  at  that  time  of  a  golden  hue,  and  may  be  easily 
traced,  in  a  long  line,  running  north  and  south.  This  gradually 
brightens,  and  is  lost  the  moment  the  sun  is  seen. 

The  evening  view  gives  rise  to  disappointment.  The  mountains 
are  seen  at  a  great  distance  (eighty  miles  in  a  bird’s  flight)  reflecting 
the  setting  sun,  and,  in  consequence,  appear  much  lower  than  is 
anticipated. 

On  our  arrival  at  Valparaiso,  I  lost  no  time  in  establishing  the 
observatory,  and  commencing  its  duties.  The  officers  and  scientific 
gentlemen  were  assigned  to  such  duties  as  were  deemed  most  desira¬ 
ble  to  insure  the  results  in  the  different  departments. 

The  authorities,  whom  I  at  once  called  upon  in  company  with  our 
consul,  were  exceedingly  kind  and  attentive,  and  gave  every  offer  of 
assistance. 

The  officers  of  the  customs  readily  gave  me  permission  to  land  all 
my  instruments.  Mr.  Cood,  an  English  gentleman,  kindly  offered 
our  consul  to  place  at  my  disposition  an  unoccupied  house  on  the 
hill.  Although  it  was  some  distance  to  mount  up,  as  it  was  quiet 
and  out  of  the  way,  I  accepted  the  kind  offer,  and  occupied  it. 

As  I  was  desirous  of  avoiding  all  unnecessary  delay,  not  only  on 
account  of  the  loss  of  time  we  had  already  met  with,  but  because  the 
season  was  approaching  when  the  northers  might  he  expected,  every 

43 


VOL.  I. 


170 


CHILL 


exertion  was  made  to  supply  our  wants,  and  through  the  kindness 
and  attention  of  our  consul,  G.  G.  Hobson,  Esq.,  this  was  effected 
in  the  shortest  possible  time.  The  northers  are  greatly  dreaded, 
although  I  think  without  much  cause.  One  of  them,  and  the  last  of 
any  force,  I  had  myself  experienced  in  June,  1822,  (whilst  in  com¬ 
mand  of  a  merchant  vessel.)  In  it  eighteen  sail  of  vessels  were  lost. 
But  since  that  time  vessels  are  much  better  provided  with  cables 
and  anchors,  and  what  proved  a  disastrous  storm  then,  would  now 
scarcely  be  felt.  I  do  not  deem  the  bay  as  dangerous  as  it  has  the 
name  of  being.  The  great  difficulty  of  the  port  is  its  confined 
space,  and  in  the  event  of  a  gale,  the  sea  that  sets  in  is  so  heavy,  that 
vessels  are  liable  to  come  in  contact  with  each  other,  and  to  be  more  or 
less  injured.  The  port  is  too  confined  to  accommodate  the  trade  that 
is  carried  on  in  it.  Various  schemes  and  improvements  are  talked 
of,  but  none  that  are  feasible.  The  depth  of  water  opposes  an  almost 
insuparable  obstacle  to  its  improvement  by  piers.  The  enterprise  of 
the  government  and  the  inhabitants  of  Valparaiso  are,  I  am  well 
satisfied,  equal  to  any  undertaking  that  is  practicable. 

From  the  best  accounts,  I  am  satisfied  that  the  harbour  is  filling 
up,  from  the  wash  off  the  hills.  Although  this  may  seem  but  a  small 
amount,  yet  after  a  lapse  of  sixteen  years,  the  change  was  quite 
perceptible  to  me,  and  the  oldest  residents  confirmed  the  fact.  The 
anchorage  of  the  vessels  has  changed,  and  what  before  was  thought 
an  extremely  dangerous  situation,  is  now  considered  the  best  in  the 
event  of  bad  weather.  The  sea  is  to  be  feared  rather  than  the  wind, 
for  the  latter  seldom  blows  home,  because  the  land  immediately 
behind  the  city  rises  in  abrupt  hills  to  the  height  of  from  eight 
to  fifteen  hundred  and  two  thousand  feet. 

Valparaiso  has  greatly  increased  in  size  and  consequence  within 
the  last  few  years,  and  has  become  the  great  sea-port  of  Chili,  and, 
indeed,  of  the  whole  coast.  Although  it  labours  under  many  disadvan¬ 
tages  as  respects  its  harbour,  which  is  inferior  to  others  on  the  coast, 
yet  it  is  the  nearest  and  most  convenient  port  to  Santiago,  the  capital. 

I  have  had  some  opportunity  of  knowing  Valparaiso,  and  con¬ 
trasting  its  present  state  with  that  of  1821  and  1822.  It  was  then  a 
mere  village,  composed,  with  but  few  exceptions,  of  straggling 
ranchos.  It  has  now  the  appearance  of  a  thickly  settled  town,  with 
a  population  of  thirty  thousand,  five  times  the  number  it  had  then. 
It  is  divided  into  two  parts,  one  of  which  is  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Port,  and  is  the  old  town,  the  other,  by  that  of  the  Almendral, 


CHILI. 


171 


occupying  a  level  plain  to  the  east.  Its  location  is  by  no  means  such 
as  to  show  it  to  advantage.  The  principal  buildings  are  the  custom¬ 
house,  two  churches,  and  the  houses  occupying  the  main  street. 
Most  of  the  buildings  are  of  one  story,  and  are  built  of  adobes  or 
sun-dried  brick.  The  walls  of  the  buildings  are  from  four  to  six  feet 
thick.  The  reason  for  this  mode  of  building  is  the  frequent  occur¬ 
rence  of  earthquakes.  The  streets  are  well  paved.  The  Plaza  has 
not  much  to  recommend  it.  The  Government  House  is  an  inferior 
building.  Great  improvements  are  now  making,  and  many  buildings 
putting  up. 

They  are  about  bringing  water  from  one  of  the  neighbouring 
springs  on  the  hill,  which,  if  the  supply  is  sufficient,  will  give  the 
town  many  comforts.  On  the  hills  are  many  neat  and  comfortable 
dwellings,  surrounded  by  flower-gardens.  These  are  chiefly  occupied 
bv  the  families  of  American  and  English  merchants.  This  is  the 
most  pleasant  part  of  the  town,  and  enjoys  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
harbour.  The  ascent  to  it  is  made  quite  easy  by  a  well-constructed 
road  through  a  ravine.  The  height  is  two  hundred  and  ten  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  east  end  of  the  Almendral  is  also  occupied  by 
the  wealthy  citizens.  The  lower  classes  live  in  the  ravines.  Many 
of  their  habitations  are  scarcely  sufficient  to  keep  them  dry  during 
the  rainy  season.  They  are  built  of  reeds,  plastered  with  mud,  and 
are  thatched  with  straw.  They  are  seldom  of  more  than  one  apart¬ 
ment. 

The  well-known  hills  to  the  south  of  the  port,  called  the  “  Main 
and  Fore  Top,”  are  the  principal  localities  of  the  grog-shops  and 
their  customers.  These  two  hills,  and  the  gorge  ( quebrada )  between 
them,  seem  to  contain  a  large  proportion  of  the  worthless  population 
of  both  sexes.  The  females,  remarkable  for  their  black  eyes  and  red 
“  bayettas,”  are  an  annoyance  to  the  authorities,  the  trade,  and  com¬ 
manders  of  vessels,  and  equally  so  to  the  poor  sailors,  who  seldom 
leave  this  port  without  empty  pockets  and  injured  health. 

It  was  difficult  to  realize  the  improvement  and  change  that  had 
taken  place  in  the  habits  of  the  people,  and  the  advancement  in  civil 
order  and  civilization.  On  my  former  visit  there  was  no  sort  of 
order,  regulation,  or  any  thing  that  had  a  tendency  to  good  govern¬ 
ment.  Robbery,  murder,  and  vices  of  all  kinds  were  openly 
committed. 

The  exercise  of  arbitrary  military  power  alone  existed.  Not  only 
with  the  natives,  but  among  foreigners,  gambling  and  knavery  of  the 


172 


CHILL 


lowest  order,  and  all  the  demoralizing  effects  that  accompany  them, 
prevailed.  Every  body  engaged  in  trade  was  found  more  or  less  to 
recognise  the  system  of  fraud  and  deceit  that  had  become  the  order 
of  the  day.  The  demoralizing  influence  of  smuggling,  and  bribery 
in  open  day,  without  disguise,  with  the  knowledge  and  connivance  of 
the  higher  authorities,  whose  duty  it  was  to  apply  the  corrective, 
naturally  brought  about  this  state  of  things,  and  the  inference  was 
drawn,  true  or  false,  that  they  participated  in  the  profits  accruing 
from  such  transactions. 

I  myself  saw  on  my  former  visit  several  dead  bodies  exposed  in  the 
public  squares,  victims  of  the  cuchillo.  This  was  the  result  of  a 
night’s  debauch,  and  the  fracas  attendant  upon  it. 

No  other  punishment  awaited  the  culprits  than  the  remorse  of 
their  own  conscience. 

Now,  Valparaiso,  and  indeed  all  Chili,  shows  a  great  change  for 
the  better ;  order  reigns  throughout ;  crime  is  rarely  heard  of,  and 
never  goes  unpunished ;  good  order  and  decorum  prevail  outwardly 
every  where ;  that  engine  of  good  government,  an  active  and  efficient 
police,  has  been  established.  It  is  admirably  regulated,  and  brought 
fully  into  action,  not  only  for  the  protection  of  life  and  property,  but 
in  adding  to  the  comforts  of  the  inhabitants. 

There  is  no  country  that  more  strongly  bears  the  impress  of  the 
working  of  a  master  spirit,  in  conjunction  with  a  desire  on  the  part 
of  the  people  to  maintain  order  by  good  government,  than  Chili. 

The  civil  power  has  now  complete  ascendency  over  the  military, 
which  had  so  long  ruled  Chili  with  despotic  sway.  The  breaking 
down  of  the  latter  was  the  first  step  to  the  establishment  of  good 
order,  and  removed  the  spirit  of  disorganization  that  a  military 
ascendency  was  for  ever  producing.  Revolution  had  become  another 
word  in  the  army  for  promotion,  for  with  it,  every  officer  usually 
obtained  a  grade.  Each  officer  was  ever  ready  to  seek  self-aggran¬ 
dizement,  whenever  he  could  create  a  party  in  his  favour;  and  no 
opportunity  was  lost  in  bringing  about  dissatisfaction  at  the  mode  in 
which  the  existing  government  conducted  affairs. 

The  predominant  trait  of  the  Chilians,  when  compared  with  other 
South  Americans,  is  their  love  of  country  and  attachment  to  their 
homes.  This  feeling  is  common  to  all  classes.  There  is  also  a  great 
feeling  of  independence  and  equality.  Public  opinion  has  weight  in 
directing  the  affairs  of  state.  The  people  are  fond  of  agricultural 
pursuits,  and  the  lower  orders  much  better  disposed  towards  foreigners 


CHILI. 


173 


than  in  other  parts.  Schools  and  colleges  have  been  established,  and 
a  desire  to  extend  the  benefits  of  education  throughout  the  population 
is  evinced.  This  has  been  of  late  one  of  the  constant  aims  of 
government. 

The  credit  of  forming  this  police  is  given  to  Portales.  It  con¬ 
sists  of  two  distinct  bodies,  one  mounted,  the  other  on  foot.  The 
watchmen  carry  swords  only.  The  former  patrol  the  streets  on 
horseback,  while  the  latter  take  their  particular  walk  round  a  square 
or  two,  for  which  they  are  responsible.  A  message  may  be  sent 
through  them  to  the  farthest  end  of  the  city,  and  an  answer  returned, 
in  fifteen  minutes.  They  carry  a  loud  and  shrill  whistle,  the  sounds 
of  which  are  varied  as  occasion  requires,  and  by  it  a  concentration  of 
force  can  be  effected  in  a  few  moments.  The  notes  of  the  whistle 
when  all  is  well,  are 


When  they  cry  the  hour  they  all  sing  the  same  tune,  but  the  pitch 
is  ranged  in  accordance  with  the  scope  of  the  voice.  The  manner  of 
singing  the  hour  is  pleasing,  thus  : 


Viva  Chi  -  li,  Viva  Chi  -  Ii,  las  diez  and  -  a 


se  -  re 


na. 


In  the  morning  they  add  to  it  a  prayer,  as  Ave  Maria-purissima  las 
cinco  y  media.  The  music  does  not  differ  from  the  night-song,  but 
has  the  few  additional  notes  that  are  necessary.  This  police  adds 
greatly  to  the  comfort  as  well  as  to  the  safety  of  the  inhabitants.  To 
give  an  instance  of  its  effects,  apothecaries  are  chosen  weekly  to  keep 
their  shops  open  all  night,  and  in  case  of  sickness  or  requiring  any 
aid,  one  has  only  to  call  for  the  vigilante ,  who  takes  the  recipe  and 
passes  it  to  the  next,  and  so  on  to  the  shop,  wdiere  it  is  obtained,  and 
returned  as  soon  as  possible,  without  any  trouble  whatever.  They 
have  their  particular  rounds,  and  each  door  is  obliged  to  have  a  pad¬ 
lock.  If  any  door  is  found  without  it,  they  put  a  lock  on,  for  which 
the  owner  has  to  pay  a  fine  of  four  dollars  to  the  city  to  have  it 
removed ;  half  is  the  reward  of  the  vigilante. 

A  complaint  during  our  stay  was  made  by  one  of  the  officers,  of 
exactions  made  by  a  policeman.  It  was  instantly  taken  notice  of 
and  punished.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  this  police  should  still  wear 


44 


VOL.  I. 


174 


CHILI. 


the  military  uniform,  as  it  seems  unbecoming  in  a  republican  form  of 
government ;  at  least  we  thought  so. 

The  shops  are  well  filled  with  almost  all  articles  of  English, 
American  and  French  manufacture.  The  markets  are  well  supplied. 
There  are  no  market-gardens  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Valparaiso, 
and  nearly  all  the  vegetables  are  brought  from  the  valley  of  Quillota, 
about  sixteen  miles  distant,  on  the  backs  of  mules  in  panniers.  The 
mode  of  bringing  grass  or  clover  to  market  is  peculiar,  it  at  times 
almost  covers  both  horse  and  rider.  The  supplies  are  abundant  and 
of  excellent  quality,  consisting  of  all  kinds  of  fruits  and  vegetables, 
&c.  The  prices  vary  but  little  from  those  at  home;  beef,  for 
instance,  costs  six  and  a  half  cents  per  pound. 

There  are  but  few  amusements.  Among  them  is  a  theatre,  which 
is  small  and  inconvenient,  and  the  chmgano ,  both  of  which  are 
usually  open  on  a  Sunday  evening. 

The  Chilians  are  extremely  fond  of  the  dance  called  the  sama- 
cueca.  This  may  be  called  the  national  dance,  and  is  in  vogue 
among  the  common  people.  It  is  usually  performed  at  the  chingano, 
which  is  a  kind  of  amphitheatre  surrounded  by  apartments  where 
refreshments,  including  strong  drinks,  are  sold,  and  is  generally  well 
filled  by  both  sexes.  The  dance  is  performed  on  a  kind  of  stage  under 
an  open  shed.  The  music  is  a  mixture  of  Spanish,  and  Indian,  and  is 
performed  altogether  by  females,  on  an  old-fashioned  long  and  narrow 
harp,  one  end  of  which  rests  on  the  lap  of  the  performer,  and  the  other 
on  the  stage,  ten  feet  off.  A  second  girl  is  seen  merrily  beating  time 
on  the  sounding-board  of  the  instrument.  On  the  right  is  another, 
strumming  the  common  chords  on  a  wire-string  guitar  or  kitty, 
making,  at  every  vibration  of  the  right  hand,  a  full  sweep  across  all 
the  strings,  and  varying  the  chords.  In  addition  to  this,  they  sang  a 
national  love-song  in  Spanish  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  one  singing  a 
kind  of  alto,  the  whole  producing  a  very  strange  combination  of  sounds. 

The  dance  is  performed  by  a  young  man  and  woman ;  the  former 
is  gaudily  decked  in  a  light  scarlet  jacket,  embroidered  with  gold 
lace,  white  pantaloons,  red  sash  and  pumps,  with  a  tiny  red  cap ; 
whilst  that  of  his  partner  consists  of  a  gaudy  painted  muslin  dress, 
quite  short  and  stiffly  starched,  not  a  little  aided  by  an  ample  pair  of 
hips;  thrown  over  all  is  a  rich-coloured  French  shawl;  these,  with 
well  fitted  silk  stockings,  complete  her  attire.  These  last  are  in  truth 
characteristic  of  the  Chilian  women  of  all  classes,  and  they  take  no 
pains  to  conceal  them.  One  not  unfrequently  sees  the  extravagance 


CHILL 


175 


of  silk  stockings  in  the  washerwomen  at  their  tubs,  and  even  with 
their  hands  in  the  snds.  The  dress  in  general  fits  neatly,  and  nature 
is  not  distorted  by  tight  lacing,  or  the  wearing  of  corsets.  Nothing 
is  worn  on  the  head,  and  the  hair  parted  and  equally  divided  from 
the  forehead  back  to  the  neck,  hangs  down  in  two  long  plaits  on  each 
shoulder  to  the  waist. 

The  style  of  dancing  is  somewhat  like  a  fandango.  The  couple 
begin  by  facing  each  other  and  flirting  handkerchiefs  over  each 
other’s  heads;  then  approaching,  slowly  retreating  again,  then  quickly 
shooting  off  to  one  side,  passing  under  arms  without  touching,  with 
great  agilitv,  rattling  and  beating  time  with  castanets.  Their  move- 
ments  are  quite  graceful ;  that  of  their  feet  pretty,  and  withal  quite 
amorous :  the  gestures  may  be  readily  understood,  not  only  by  the 
native  audience,  but  by  foreigners.  1  cannot  say  much  for  its  moral 
tendency. 

The  higher  classes  of  females  have  the  name  of  being  virtuous  and 
estimable  in  their  domestic  circle,  but  we  cannot  say  that  they  are 
beautiful.  They  dress  their  hair  with  great  care  and.  taste.  Their 
feet  are  small,  and  they  have  a  graceful  carriage. 

The  French  fashion  of  dress  prevails,  and  they  are  just  beginning 
to  wear  bonnets.  The  advancement  of  civilization  is  rapid ;  the  imi¬ 
tation  of  foreign  habits  and  customs  will  soon  predominate  over  those 
of  Chili,  and  what  is  of  more  consequence,  some  attention  is  being 
paid  to  their  education. 

A  rather  singular  occurrence  took  place  at  a  review  of  the  militia 
on  the  Plaiancia,  one  Sunday,  by  the  President,  who  was  attended  by 
his  daughter  and  a  number  of  the  most  respectable  ladies  of  the  place. 
They  marched  down  the  line,  and  afterwards  danced  with  the  officers 
on  the  field  in  the  presence  of  the  soldiers.  All  the  South  Americans 
are  inveterate  dancers,  the  Chilians  taking  the  lead.  The  taste  for 
music  is  general,  but  although  they  have  a  number  of  national  airs, 
few  have  been  printed.  All  the  printed  music  in  common  use  is 
foreign,  as  are  the  instruments.  Pianos  are  to  be  seen  in  almost 
every  house. 

The  natives  have  a  fondness  for  flowers,  although  they  are  but  little 
cultivated.  Few  gardens  are  yet  to  be  seen  of  any  consequence. 
They  require  constant  irrigation  the  most  of  the  year,  which  may 
account  for  this  want.  There  are  two  in  the  Almendral,  surrounded 
by  high  walls,  and  kept  in  tolerable  order,  and  great  attention  is  paid 
in  them  to  foreign  plants. 

We  happened  to  be  at  Valparaiso  during  the  President’s  visit, 


176 


CHILI. 


which,  connected  with  the  late  victory  and  successes  in  Peru,  caused 
much  rejoicing,  and  every  possible  attention  was  shown  to  the  Chief 
Magistrate,  both  by  natives  and  foreigners.  Among  others,  he  was 
taken  on  an  aquatic  excursion  on  board  of  a  small  brigantine,  decked 
out  with  the  flags  of  all  nations,  and  was  accompanied  by  the  civil 
authorities  of  Valparaiso,  the  English  admiral,  and  others.  On  pass¬ 
ing  the  men-of-war  he  received  the  customary  salutes  from  all  but 
ourselves.  We  could  not  fire  salutes  on  account  of  our  chronometers. 
On  his  passing,  however,  the  rigging  was  manned,  and  we  gave  him 
several  hearty  cheers,  which,  it  was  said,  much  delighted  the  Presi¬ 
dent  and  his  suite,  from  the  novelty  of  the  compliment. 

Three  balls  were  given  during  the  stay  of  the  squadron  here,  in 
consequence  of  the  visit  of  the  President  (General  Prieto);  one  in 
honour  of  the  recent  victory  of  Yungai  over  the  Peruvians ;  the  others 
by  the  citizens  and  foreigners  to  his  Excellency.  As  the  former  was 
an  extraordinary  occasion,  a  description  of  it  will  give  some  insight 
into  the  manner  in  which  they  conduct  these  affairs  in  Chili.  All 
three  were  managed  in  a  manner  that  would  have  been  highly  cre¬ 
ditable  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

The  place  selected  for  the  great  ball  was  between  the  walls  of  two 
large  unfinished  storehouses,  a  space  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long 
by  ninety  wide,  over  which  temporary  arches  were  built,  the  whole 
covered  with  an  awning  lined  with  blue,  and  studded  with  stars,  from 
which  were  suspended  some  twenty  very  handsome  chandeliers.  The 
whole  was  carpeted,  while  the  various  pillars  which  supported  the  roof 
were  decorated  with  emblems  of  the  victory  and  nation.  At  the  end 
opposite  to  the  entrance  was  a  transparency  of  General  Bulnes,  the 
hero  of  Yungai,  surrounded  with  scrolls  of  his  deeds.  Along  the 
corridors  which  the  piazzas  formed,  ranges  of  sofas  and  seats  were 
placed ;  on  the  walls  were  hung  rich  mirrors  and  paintings  :  the 
former  rested  on  massive  pier  tables,  in  which  hundreds  of  lights 
were  seen  reflected,  whilst  the  graceful  festoons  of  the  national  flags 
and  pennants  formed  into  draperies,  intermixed  with  wreaths  of 
flowers  and  evergreens  in  endless  variety,  encircling  emblematic 
designs  of  the  nation’s  glory,  produced  an  effect  not  easily  surpassed. 
The  reception-room  of  the  President  was  hung  with  scarlet  tapestry, 
decorated  with  paintings,  mirrors,  and  pier  tables,  and  brilliantly 
lighted  with  chandeliers,  &c. 

There  were  likewise  card-rooms,  smoking-rooms,  supper-rooms, 
and  a  dressing-room  for  the  ladies,  in  which  were  a  number  of  hair¬ 
dressers  and  mantua-makers  constantly  in  attendance.  The  whole 


CHILL 


177 


was  well  got  up,  unique,  and  truly  splendid;  all  Valparaiso  had  sent 
furniture  of  every  kind,  and  even  the  churches  had  contributed  to 
assist  in  the  great  gala  fete  in  commemoration  of  the  national  victory. 

The  company  consisted  of  about  five  hundred,  one-third  of  whom 
were  females.  Many  costly  uniforms,  of  various  patterns,  and  not  a 
little  fanciful,  added  to  the  brilliancy  of  the  scene. 

About  ten  o’clock  the  hall  was  opened  by  the  President,  Don  Joaquim 
Prieto,  in  person,  a  novel  sight  to  us.  He  was  dressed  in  a  richly  em¬ 
broidered  coat,  gold  epaulettes,  and  field-marshal’s  sash.  He  danced 
a  minuet  with  a  lady  of  V alparaiso,  whom  he  had  especially  selected, 
after  which  the  dancing  became  general,  consisting  of  quadrilles, 
country-dances,  and  waltzes,  besides  which  they  had  the  lascivious 
dances  of  samacueca,  cachucha,  and  lordean.  These  partake  some¬ 
what  of  the  bolero  and  fandango,  or  Spanish  and  African  dance. 

By  way  of  interlude,  marches  and  national  airs  were  played  and 
sung.  The  ball  did  not  break  up  until  eight  o’clock  next  morning, 
at  which  hour  the  President  and  his  daughter  were  escorted  home  by 
a  procession  of  the  dancers,  with  the  music  playing  national  airs, 
forming  rather  a  grotesque  show  to  the  bystanders,  from  the  inter¬ 
change  of  hats  and  outer  garments  that  had  taken  place. 

On  reaching  General  Prieto’s  quarters  they  sang  a  national  hymn, 
after  which  many  were  invited  in,  where  they  again  continued 
dancing  until  noon. 

I  should  not  omit  to  mention  that  after  midnight  the  ladies  under¬ 
went  a  second  operation  of  the  toilet. 

The  whole  equalled,  if  it  did  not  surpass,  any  of  our  own  fetes  at 
home ;  indeed  all  who  attended  were  much  surprised,  having  little 
idea  that  Valparaiso  could  have  made  so  brilliant  and  tasteful  a 
display  of  beauty  and  magnificence. 


TAKING  GRASS  TO  MARKET. 

45 


VOL.  1. 


CHAPTER  X. 


CONTENTS. 

JOURNEY  INTO  THE  INTERIOR— BILOCHES— TRAVELLING— CASA  BLANCA  —  GEOLOGICAL 
FORMATION— CURACOVI— HEATH  ABOVE  THE  SEA— CUESTA  DE  ZAPATA—  GUEST  A  DEL 
PRADA— ROADS— TRANSPORTATION  OF  GOODS— BEGGARS-PLAIN  OF  MAATO — CORDILLE¬ 
RAS — ST.  JAGO  —  MINT  —  LIBRARY  —  AMUSEMENTS  —  FASHIONS  —  MARKET  —  CLIMATE  — 
EXCURSION  TO  THE  CORDILLERAS— MOUNTAIN  SCENERY— SNOW— GUANACOES— HEAT- 
RETURN  TO  ST.  JAGO— MAYPOCHO— JOURNEY  TO  SAN  FELIPE— QUILLOTA-TUPONG ATI 
PEAK  —  DI KES  —  E V ANGELISTO  CELIDONO  —  FARM-HOUSE  —  CATCHING  WILD  HORSES  — 
RANCHO— ENTERTAINMENT— ARRIVAL  AT  SAN  FELIPE  DE  ACONCAGUA— MR.  NEWMAN’S— 
MR.  CHASE— TOWN  OF  SAN  FELIPE— CHICHA  AND  AGUARDIENTE— THEIR  MANUFACTURE 
-AGRICULTURAL  IMPLEMENTS-VISIT  THE  COPPER  MINES— MODES  OF  WORKING  THEM— 
THEIR  SITUATION— TRANSPORTATION  OF  ORES-W AGES— TEMPERANCE  REGULATIONS— 
LAKE  ON  THE  HIGH  CORDILLERAS— COPPER  ORES-RETURN  TO  SAN  FELIPE— KINDNESS 
OF  MR.  NEWMAN  AND  LADY— CELIDONO— QUILLOTA— RETURN  TO  VALPARAISO— EARTH¬ 
QUAKES— PROTESTANT  CHURCH— LIBERALITY  OF  PRIESTHOOD— ORACION— COMMERCE- 
EXPORTS— IMPORTS— FOREIGN  VESSELS— POPULATION— COLLEGES— CONGRESS— IMPROVE¬ 
MENTS  IN  PROGRESS— REVENUE— NATIONAL  DEBT— CLIMATE— FRUITS— ADMINISTRATION 
—  EXECUTIVE  —  SENATE  —  HOUSE  OF  DEPUTIES— MILITIA— ARMY— NAVY— G.  G.  HOBSON, 
ESQ.,  U.  S.  CONSUL  — LIEUTENANT  CRAVEN  — HIS  GALLANT  CONDUCT— CAPTAIN  ISAAC 
M’KEEVER — U.  S.  SHIP  FALMOUTH— FLYING-FISH— GALE— SEA  GULL  LAST  SEEN— HER  LOSS 
—PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  JAMES  W.  E.  REID— PASSED  MIDSHIPMAN  FREDERICK  A.  BACON- 
ADMINISTRATION  OF  GOVERNMENT  OF  CHILI. 


i 


* 


# 


■ 


CHAPTER  X. 

C  H  I  L  I  — C  ONTINUED. 

1  8  39. 

Previous  to  my  arrival  at  Valparaiso,  the  naturalists  and  some 
■officers  on  board  the  Peacock  and  Relief  had  made  excursions  into 
the  interior.  On  my  arrival  I  allowed  all  those  who  could  be  spared, 
and  were  desirous  of  visiting  Santiago,  sufficient  leave  to  make  the 
trip.  Several  set  out  for  that  city,  and  some  with  a  view  of  making 
the  trip  to  the  Cordilleras  beyond. 

The  bilocheros  were  eager  for  opportunities  to  hire  their  biloches, 
a  vehicle  somewhat  resembling  a  double  gig,  which  is  generally  used 
for  travelling  in  Chili.  They  have  a  most  rickety  and  worn  out 
appearance ;  almost  every  part  appears  mended  with  cords  made  of 
hide.  They  accommodate  two  passengers,  and  the  time  required 
between  Valparaiso  and  the  city  (Santiago),  is  about  eighteen  or 
twenty  hours.  In  the  shafts  a  horse  is  put ;  a  postilion  rides  another 
on  the  left,  and  sometimes  another  is  ‘placed  on  the  right,  both  being 
fastened  to  the  vehicle  by  lassos  of  raw-hide  proceeding  from  the 
saddle.  Each  vehicle  is  attended  by  three  bilocheros  or  drivers,  with 
a  drove  of  twelve  or  fifteen  horses,  forming  quite  a  cavalcade. 

The  bilocheros  are  very  expert  at  their  business.  They  are  excel¬ 
lent  riders,  having  been  brought  up  to  this  exercise  from  their  infancy, 
and  understand  managing  their  horses,  though  in  a  rude  way.  Their 
horses  are  small,  but  spirited,  and  bear  fatigue  well.  Their  usual 
speed  is  about  nine  or  ten  miles  an  hour.  Few  equipages  can  com¬ 
pare  with  these  crazy  machines,  driven,  as  they  sometimes  are,  pell- 
mell  up  hill  and  down  dale,  with  all  their  accompaniments  of  horses, 
Guachos,  &c. ;  and  it  affords  no  small  amusement  to  those  on  foot, 
to  witness  the  consternation  of  the  affrighted  passengers,  in  momen- 

46 


VOL.  X. 


182 


CHILI. 


tary  expectation  of  a  break  down,  and  a  broken  neck  or  limbs.  It  is 
a  difficult  matter  to  acquire  composure,  on  seeing  the  numerous 
temporary  lashings,  giving  ocular  proof  that  accidents  have  been 
frequent,  however  well  satisfied  one  may  be  with  the  skill  of  the 
conductor.  F ortunately  the  road  is  excellent,  though  at  this  season 
(May)  it  is  divested  of  much  of  its  beauty  from  the  want  of  vegetation. 
The  interest  is,  however,  carried  forward  to  the  lofty  peaks  of  the 
Andes,  of  whose  summits  occasional  glimpses  are  had ;  and  the  eye 
glances  over  the  surrounding  scenery  in  the  immediate  neighbour¬ 
hood,  that  would  elsewhere  be  deemed  grand,  to  rest  on  some  high 
and  towering  peak.  Among  these  the  peak  of  Tupongati  is  the  most 
noted,  ranking,  since  the  measurement  of  King,  as  next  in  height  to 
the  Himmaleh  mountains. 

The  first  stopping-place  is  at  Casa  Blanca,  a  small  pueblo  of  some 
five  hundred  inhabitants,  where  travellers  usually  sleep.  The  ac¬ 
commodations  were  good,  having  been  recently  much  improved.  In 
the  neighbourhood  is  the  only  tract  of  woodland  to  be  found  in  this 
part  of  the  country.  The  elevation  of  Casa  Blanca,  about  thirty  miles 
from  Valparaiso,  is  five  hundred  and  ninety-eight  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  primitive  district  extends  about  fifty  miles  from  the 
coast,  and  of  course  is  found  here.  It  is  composed  chiefly  of  gneiss, 
which  is  generally  easily  decomposed.  The  mountains,  in  conse¬ 
quence,  are  not  rugged,  but  of  an  easy  ascent,  and  mural  precipices 
are  not  met  with.  The  gneiss  was  in  some  places  observed  to 
pass  into  hornblende  rock,  resembling  the  trachytic  or  igneous  green 
stone.  It  contains  abundance  of  diffused  epidote,  and  among  the 
minerals  schorl  was  observed,  but  no  garnets  were  found. 

The  road  from  Casa  Blanca  next  passes  through  Curacovi,  a  small 
pueblo,  three  hundred  and  forty-four  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  where  the  trap  rock  first  makes  its  appearance,  and  then 
over  a  high  ridge  called  the  Cuesta  de  Zapata.  This  terminates  the 
first  plain,  and  divides  it  from  the  second,  of  similar  character,  which 
extends  to  the  Cuesta  del  Prado.  It  is  passed  over  by  a  zigzag  road, 
and  was  found  to  be  two  thousand  three  hundred  and  ninety-four  feet 
high.  On  reaching  the  top  the  view  that  presents  itself  is  extensive 
and  magnificent. 

In  front  is  the  extensive  plain  of  Maypo,  with  here  and  there  a 
conical  mountain  standing  alone  on  it.  At  the  extremity  of  the  plain 
rise  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  Andes,  covered  with  eternal  snow,  some 
reaching  above  the  clouds.  They  appear  but  a  few  hours’  ride  off, 


C  II  I  L  I. 


183 


although  at  a  distance  of  twenty  leagues.  On  either  side  rise  the 
high  ridges  of  the  Cuesta.  Beneath  lie  grazing  grounds,  extending 
over  the  plain,  and  covered  with  flocks  and  herds.  Life  and  anima¬ 
tion  is  given  to  the  whole  by  the  view  of  the  national  road,  on  which 
are  seen  numbers  of  vehicles,  mules,  &c.,  threading  their  way  up  and 
down  the  mountain-side,  charged  with  foreign  and  domestic  pro¬ 
ducts.  This  is  the  only  road  of  any  extent  for  wheel-carriages  in  the 
country.  It  is  kept  in  good  repair  by  convicts,  who  are  seen  working 
in  chains.  A  moveable  prison  or  lock-up  house,  somewhat  resembling 
the  cao-es  used  in  caravans  of  wild  beasts,  is  used  for  their  accommo- 
dation  and  security  at  night. 

The  heavy  merchandise  is  for  the  most  part  transported  in  ox  carts 
of  enormous  dimensions.  Their  wheels  are  clumsy  and  without 
tires,  and  the  whole  frame  is  made  strongly  with  timber  pinned 
together.  Their  perpendicular  sides  and  rounded  tops  are  wattled 
with  cane  and  covered  with  buH’s-hide.  No  iron  is  used  in  their 
structure ;  wooden  pins  and  raw-hide  lashings  seem  to  answer  the 
purpose  better.  The  yoke  is  set  on  the  heads  of  the  oxen,  behind  the 
horns,  and  fastened  to  them.  The  creaking  of  these  carts  may  be 
heard  for  miles,  as  they  never  think  of  greasing  the  axles  to  lessen 
the  friction.  They  are  generally  drawn  by  four  or  eight  oxen.  The 
wood-cut,  at  the  end  of  this  chapter,  from  a  sketch  taken  by  Mr. 
Drayton,  will  complete  the  description. 


184 


CHILI. 


Lighter  articles  are  transported  by  mules,  and  immense  numbers 
of  these  animals  are  seen  on  the  road  at  all  times. 

The  mode  of  changing  horses  is  truly  characteristic  of  the  country. 
The  relays  are  made  as  soon  as  the  shaft-horse  tires ;  he  is  quickly 
taken  out,  and  one  of  the  drove  caught  with  a  lasso,  and  put  in  his 
place,  when  on  they  go.  These  relays  occur  every  eight  or  ten  miles ; 
the  only  relief  the  poor  horses  have  is  a  trot  out  of  harness,  and  without 
a  load.  The  bilocheros  seldom  dismount ;  all  is  done  on  horseback. 
On  going  up  hill,  a  third  or  even  a  fourth  horse  is  soon  hitched  to  the 
vehicle  to  assist  the  draught.  The  horses  are  all  in  good  condition, 
and  it  is  not  a  little  remarkable  that  they  should  be  so,  for  I  understood 
that  their  only  food  at  this  season  was  chopped  straw.  The  teamsters 
and  Guachos  themselves  are  equally  abstemious.  They  live  mostly 
upon  bread  and  their  favourite  chicha,  which  is  made  from  the  grape, 
and  resembles  cider ;  but  after  it  has  passed  through  a  fermentation  it 
is  quite  intoxicating.  The  mud  huts  or  ranchos,  on  the  road  side,  are 
filled  with  happy  and  contented  faces. 

Begging  is  common  on  the  road  to  the  city,  and  is  quite  a  business. 
The  beggars  let  themselves  to  the  highest  bidders,  and  value  them¬ 
selves  according  to  their  deformities.  At  Valparaiso  two  days  are 
allowed  in  each  w~eek  for  begging. 


peasant’s  house. 

The  plain  of  Maypo,  which  reaches  to  the  foot  of  the  Cuesta  del 
Prada,  is  extremely  level,  and  is  almost  thirty  miles  in  width, 
extending  to  the  foot  of  the  Cordilleras.  The  road  leads  nearly  in  a 
straight  line  over  it  to  the  city  of  Santiago,  which  is  situated  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  plain. 

The  elevation  of  Santiago  above  the  sea  is  fifteen  hundred  and 
ninety-one  feet,  upon  the  third  step  or  plain  from  the  coast.  Its 
entrance  is  through  avenues  bounded  by  high  adobe  walls,  which 
shut  out  all  the  view,  except  the  Cordilleras,  which  tower  above  and 
beyond  it. 

The  more  the  Cordilleras  are  viewed  the  greater  appears  their 
attraction.  They  have  at  all  times  an  imposing  aspect  from  the 


CHILL 


185 


neighbourhood  of  the  city.  Their  irregular  and  jagged  outline  is 
constantly  varying  under  the  effects  of  light  and  shade.  The  rays  of 
the  setting  sun,  with  the  deepening  shadows,  throw  the  innumerable 
peaks  into  bold  relief,  and  at  times  produce  yellow  and  red  tints,  which 
give  a  remarkable  character  to  the  whole  scene.  The  red  tints  are 
often  accompanied  with  a  green  hue  in  the  sky.  The  city  is  sur¬ 
rounded  by  many  fine  orchards,  gardens,  farms  and  grazing  grounds. 
The  former  being  enclosed  by  high  adobe  walls,  give  it  a  rather 
unpleasant  appearance,  until  the  city  is  fairly  entered,  when  the 
streets  have  a  fresh  and  clean  look.  The  city  is  laid  out  in  squares. 
Its  streets  are  well  paved,  and  have  good  sidewalks.  This  fresh 
and  clean  appearance,  we  afterwards  understood  was  owing  to  a 
law,  obliging  all  to  whitewash  their  houses  and  walls  once  a  year,  a 
practice  which  gives  a  general  uniformity,  at  least  in  colour,  to  the 
whole,  and  forms  an  agreeable  contrast  with  the  red  tiled  roofs.  The 
houses  are  mostly  of  one  story,  built  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  square, 
from  twenty  to  forty  feet  wide,  round  which  the  rooms  are  situated. 
The  roof  projects  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  piazza  or  covered  way.  The 
gateway  is  usually  large,  and  the  rooms  on  each  side  of  it  are  not 
connected  with  the  rest  of  the  building,  but  are  rented  as  shops. 
Opposite  to  the  gateway  is  the  centre  window,  guarded  by  a  light 
and  ornamental  iron  frame,  painted  green  or  richly  gilt.  The  court¬ 
yard  is  usually  neatly  paved  with  small  rounded  pebbles  from  the  bed 
of  the  Maypocho,  arranged  in  fanciful  forms,  but  in  many  cases  they 
are  laid  out  in  flower-gardens,  where  roses  and  geraniums  are  seen  in 
full  bloom. 

The  river  Maypocho  runs  through  one  portion  of  the  city,  and 
supplies  it  with  water,  which  is  conducted  through  all  the  principal 
streets,  assisting  much  in  preserving  their  cleanliness,  though  not 
sufficient  to  supersede  the  necessity  of  scavengers.  In  the  centre  of 
the  city  is  the  great  Plaza,  where  the  public  buildings  are  situated. 
They  are  built  of  a  coarse  kind  of  porphyry,  obtained  from  the  moun¬ 
tains,  and  are  on  a  large  scale.  The  cathedral  and  palace  each  occupy 
one  side ;  in  the  centre  is  a  fountain,  with  several  statues  of  Italian 
marble,  but  which  is  entirely  too  small  to  have  any  effect  in  so  large 
a  square.  All  these  buildings  are  much  out  of  repair,  having  been  at 
various  times  damaged  by  earthquakes. 

The  cathedral  is  very  large  and  extensive.  Its  altar  is  decked  with 
a  great  quantity  of  gold  and  silver.  There  are  many  paintings  and 
hangings,  among  which  is  a  large  number  of  trophies,  which  have 
been  taken  in  their  various  wars,  and  are  here  preserved.  The  niches 

47 


VOL.  I. 


186 


CHILL 


are  filled  with  wax  figures  representing  saints,  and  there  are  also  the 
remains  of  two  martyrs  of  the  church,  in  a  tolerably  good  state  of 
preservation. 

The  palace  was  originally  built  for  the  Viceroy.  It  is  now 
appropriated  to  the  accommodation  of  the  President,  and  the  public 
offices.  On  the  side  opposite  to  the  palace  is  a  colonnade,  which  is 
not  yet  finished,  and  will  occupy  the  whole  side  of  the  square. 
Under  its  portico  are  fancy  and  dry  goods  shops,  and  between  the 
columns  various  trades,  or  lace  and  fringe-makers  are  at  work.  In 
the  evening  this  becomes  a  most  busy  scene.  Females,  with  large 
flat  baskets  before  them,  are  vending  shoes,  fruit,  and  fancy  articles ; 
others  are  employed  in  cooking  cakes,  and  the  whole  lighted  up  as  it 
is  with  numerous  candles,  affords  much  amusement  to  the  stranger, 
besides  giving  him  an  opportunity  to  see  a  large  number  of  the 
inhabitants.  The  greater  part  of  those  present  are  females. 

The  mint  occupies  a  whole  square;  it  has  never  yet  been  com¬ 
pleted,  and  has  also  suffered  greatly  from  earthquakes.  The  operation 
of  coining  is  in  the  rudest  and  oldest  form,  the  same  as  practised  in 
Europe  in  the  last  century.  The  rolling  and  cutting  are  done  by 
mule  power,  and  the  oldest  kind  of  fly-press,  with  a  great  screw 
beam,  having  enormous  balls  at  the  end,  is  used.  The  dies  they  use 
are  made  from  the  male  die,  in  the  same  way  as  with  us,  but  they 
have  not  the  same  facility,  and  want  the  modern  improvements  in  the 
process.  A  toggle-jointed  press  was  imported  from  France,  but  it 
was  soon  put  out  of  order  by  the  workmen,  and  there  being  no  one 
to  repair  it,  its  use  has  been  abandoned. 

The  library  is  extensive,  containing  several  thousand  volumes, 
which  formerly  belonged  to  the  Jesuits,  and  many  curious  manu¬ 
scripts  relating  to  the  Indians. 

For  amusements  they  are  not  very  remarkable.  They,  however, 
boast  of  a  theatre,  and  a  chingano.  There  appears  to  be  little 
business  doing,  and  Santiago  may  be  called  a  quiet  city.  The  siesta 
is  daily  indulged  in;  even  the  shops  were  shut  in  the  afternoon,  and 
the  city  is  as  quiet  as  midnight.  Towards  the  cool  of  the  evening, 
the  Alameda  is  resorted  to.  It  is  a  beautiful  walk,  about  a  mile  in 
extent,  well  shaded,  and  occupies  one  bank  of  the  river.  It  is  planted 
with  a  double  row  of  poplar  trees,  which  seem  to  thrive  well  here. 
Streams  of  water  are  constantly  running  on  each  side  of  the  walk. 
Every  few  yards  stone  seats  are  placed,  which  are  at  times  filled 
with  a  well-dressed  population.  The  Alameda  affords  at  all  times  a 
cool  and  pleasant  promenade. 


CHILL 


187 


The  evenings  are  generally  passed  at  tertulias,  in  visiting  socially, 
or  in  shopping  in  the  colonnade.  The  inhabitants  are  much  addicted 
to  gambling.  Monte  is  the  game  with  the  higher  classes,  whilst  that 
of  match-penny  is  the  favourite  of  the  lower  orders.  The  Chilian 
ladies  are  remarkable  for  their  ease  of  manner,  kindness,  and  attention 
to  strangers.  They  are  fond  of  diversions  of  any  kind,  but  more 
particularly  those  of  dancing  and  music,  both  of  which  are  much 
practised.  They  seem  extravagantly  fond  of  music.  Dancing  they 
are  taught  very  young.  Most  of  them  have  good  figures,  and  some 
would  be  called  quite  pretty,  but  their  teeth  are  generally  defective, 
which  causes  them  soon  to  look  old.  Their  costume  varies  little  from 
our  own,  except  that  the  ladies  wear  no  bonnets. 

The  gentlemen  follow  the  European  fashions. 

The  dress  of  the  lower  order  is  a  mixture  of  Spanish  and  Indian. 
They  are  fond  of  bright  colours.  Over  their  shirt  and  trousers  is 
worn  a  blue  or  brown  poncha.  A  high-crowned  and  small-rimmed 
hat,  tied  on  under  the  chin,  over  a  bright  cotton  handkerchief  on  the 
head,  completes  their  outfit.  They  are  a  well-disposed  people,  and 
good  citizens,  and  have  more  the  air  of  contentment  than  any  other 
nation  of  South  America. 


market  place  st  j  ago  de  chili. 


The  markets  are  well  supplied.  There  is  one  large  one  near  the 
banks  of  the  Maypocho.  It  covers  an  area  of  four  or  five  acres,  and 


188 


C  H  I  L  I. 


is  surrounded  by  a  low  building,  with  a  tile  roof,  supported  by 
columns,  under  which  meats  of  all  kinds  are  sold.  The  centre  is 
reserved  for  vegetables,  fruits,  flowers,  poultry,  and  small  wares. 
The  market-women  are  seen  seated  under  awnings,  screens,  and 
large  umbrellas,  which  are  used  to  keep  off  the  sun. 

The  whole  is  kept  quite  clean  and  has  a  pretty  effect.  Fruit  and 
vegetables  are  abundant  and  cheap.  They  are  of  excellent  quality. 
The  grapes  and  peaches  are  of  the  finest  kind;  apples  are  also 
plenty,  but  no  care  appears  to  have  been  taken  to  secure  the  finest 
kinds.  Cabbages,  beets,  potatoes,  cauliflower,  &c.,  are  all  large  and 
fine. 

Beef  is  proverbially  fine,  and  also  the  mutton ;  the  prices  are  six 
and  a  quarter  cents  for  the  former,  the  latter  three  cents  per  pound. 

The  average  price  of  a  horse  is  twelve  dollars,  but  some  that  are 
well  broken  are  valued  as  high  as  those  in  the  United  States. 

The  climate  of  Chili  is  justly  celebrated  throughout  the  world,  and 
that  of  Santiago  is  deemed  delightful  even  in  Chili ;  the  temperature 
is  usually  between  60°  and  75°.  Notwithstanding  this,  it  has  its 
faults.  It  is  extremely  arid,  and  were  it  not  for  its  mountain 
streams,  which  afford  the  means  of  irrigation,  the  country  would  be  a 
barren  waste  for  two-thirds  of  the  year.  Rains  fall  only  during  the 
winter  months,  (June  to  September,)  and  after  they  have  occurred, 
the  whole  country  is  decked  with  flowers.  The  rains  often  last 
several  days,  are  excessively  heavy,  and  during  their  continuance  the 
rivers  become  impassable  torrents.  The  temperature  near  the  coast 
does  not  descend  below  58°.  The  mean  temperature,  deduced  from 
the  register  kept  at  Valparaiso,  ga\  e  63°.  At  Santiago  the  climate 
is  drier  and  colder,  but  snow  rarely  falls.  On  the  ascent  of  the 
Cordilleras  the  aridity  increases  with  the  cold.  The  snow  was  found 
much  in  the  same  state  as  at  Terra  del  Fuego,  lying  in  patches  about 
the  summits.  Even  the  high  peak  of  Tupongati  was  bare  in  places, 
and  to  judge  from  appearances,  it  seldom  rains  in  the  highest  regions 
of  the  Cordilleras,  to  which  cause  may  be  imputed  the  absence  of 
glaciers. 

Several  of  our  gentlemen  made  an  excursion  to  the  Cordilleras,  in 
order  to  get  information  in  their  various  departments.  I  regretted 
they  were  not  provided  with  the  necessary  instruments  for  ascertain¬ 
ing  heights.  The  party  left  Santiago  in  biloches,  and.  travelled 
to  the  eastward  five  leagues  to  the  “  Snow  Bank”  from  wdiich  the 
city  is  supplied.  The  ascent  was  gradual,  but  quite  constant,  as  no 
intervening  ravines  occurred.  They  then  took  horses,  leaving  their 


C  II  I  L  I. 


189 


biloches  to  return.  Their  route  after  this  lay  up  a  valley.  On  the 
surrounding  heights  the  guanacoes  were  seen  in  great  numbers.  On 
reaching  the  head  of  the  valley,  one  of  the  party  became  so  unwell 
that  he  was  unable  to  proceed,  and  was  obliged  to  return. 

Dr.  Pickering,  Messrs.  Dana,  Peale,  and  Drayton,  went  on.  As 
they  proceeded  they  found  the  middle  region  was  marked  by 
spiny  plants,  principally  Burnadesia.  The  soil  was  found  to  be  a 
mixture  of  loose  earth  and  pieces  of  rock.  On  rising  higher  the 
vegetation  became  almost  wholly  extinct.  Places  occurred  of  an 
eighth  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  destitute  of  verdure  of  any  kind.  The 
party  then  ascended  a  ridge  belonging  to  the  main  body  of  the 
Cordilleras,  and  at  an  elevation  of  about  ten  thousand  feet,  they 
reached,  its  summit.  Here  they  had  an  extensive  view  of  all  the 
line  of  the  snow  peaks.  That  of  Tupongati  appeared  the  most 
conspicuous,  although  at  a  distance  of  eighty  miles.  The  guide 
asserted  that  he  could  see  smoke  issuing  from  its  volcano  in  a  faint 
streak,  but  it  was  beyond  the  vision  of  our  gentlemen.  The  peak 
itself  from  this  view  of  it  was  quite  sharp-pointed.  The  scene 
immediately  around  them  was  one  of  great  grandeur  and  desolation : 
mountain  after  mountain,  separated  by  immense  chasms  to  the  depth 
of  thousands  of  feet,  and  the  sides  broken  in  the  most  fantastic  forms 
imaginable.  In  these  higher  parts  of  the  Cordilleras  they  found  a 
large  admixture  of  the  jaspery  aluminous  rock,  which  forms  the 
base  of  the  finest  porphyries;  also  chlorite,  in  abundance.  The 
rock  likewise  contains  fine  white  chalcedony  in  irregular  straggling 
masses.  Trachytic  breccia  was  observed  in  various  places.  The 
porphyry  is  of  a  dull  purple  colour,  rather  lighter  than  the  red  sand¬ 
stone  of  the  United  States.  No  traces  of  cellular  lava  were  seen,  nor 
of  other  more  recent  volcanic  productions.  No  limestone  was  seen 
in  the  regions  traversed  by  our  parties ;  all  the  lime  used  at  Santiago  is 
obtained  from  sea-shells ;  nor  were  any  proper  sedimentary  rocks  seen. 

Nothing  could  be  more  striking  than  the  complete  silence  that 
reigned  every  where  ;  not  a  living  thing  appeared  to  their  view. 

After  spending  some  time  on  the  top  they  began  their  descent,  and 
after  two  hours’  hard  travelling  they  reached  the  snow  line,  and 
passed  the  night  very  comfortably  in  the  open  air,  with  their  blankets 
and  pillions,  or  saddle-cloths.  Fuel  for  a  fire  they  unexpectedly 
found  in  abundance :  the  Alpinia  umbellifera  answering  admirably 
for  that  purpose,  from  the  quantity  of  resinous  matter  it  contains. 
Near  their  camp  was  the  bank  of  snow  before  spoken  of,  from  which 

48 


VOL.  I. 


190 


CHILI. 


the  city  has  been  supplied  for  many  years.  It  covers  several  acres. 
The  snow  line  here  seemed  to  have  remained  constant,  and  would 
have  afforded  a  fine  opportunity  to  have  verified  the  rule  of  Hum¬ 
boldt,  but  they  had  no  instruments.  The  height  they  had  ascended 
was  supposed  to  have  been  about  eleven  thousand  feet,  and  the  Cor¬ 
dilleras  opposite  them  about  four  thousand  feet  higher.  The  view  of 
the  mass  of  the  Cordilleras,  in  its  general  outline,  was  not  unlike  those 
of  Mont  Blanc  and  other  mountains  in  Switzerland. 

Mr.  Peale  went  in  search  of  the  guanacoes,  and  succeeded  in 
killing  one  nine  feet  in  length  and  four  feet  in  height.  They  were 
found  to  frequent  only  the  most  inaccessible  summits,  and  are  said 
never  to  leave  the  vicinity  of  the  snow.  They  feed  upon  several 
small  thorny  bushes,  which  impart  a  flavour  to  their  flesh,  and  a 
smell  to  their  excrement  that  may  be  distinguished  at  some  distance 
from  their  places  of  resort.  They  make  a  peculiar  sound  when 
alarmed,  like  that  of  the  katydid,  (Gryllus.)  This  animal  is  never 
hunted  for  the  market,  though  its  flesh  is  good.  The  Benzoar  is 
often  found  in  its  stomach,  and  is  highly  prized  among  the  natives  and 
Spaniards  as  a  remedy  for  various  complaints.  It  is  also  used  as  a  gum. 

All  the  party  suffered  greatly  from  the  heat  of  the  sun’s  rays,  and 
the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere.  Their  faces  and  hands  were  blistered, 
and  the  nose  and  lips  made  exceedingly  sore,  while  the  reflection 
of  the  light  from  the  snow  caused  a  painful  sensation  to  the  eyes. 

The  next  day  they  reached  Santiago,  whence  they  returned  to  the 
Port ,  as  Y alparaiso  is  usually  distinguished  in  the  country. 

Over  the  Maypocho  at  Santiago  there  is  a  substantial  stone  bridge, 
with  five  arches.  For  nine  months  of  almost  every  year,  the  bed  of 
the  stream  is  nearly  dry.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  it  was  about 
two  yards  wide  and  several  inches  deep;  but  in  the  winter  and 
spring,  during  the  melting  of  the  snows,  it  becomes  quite  a  torrent, 
and  from  the  damage  that  has  been  done  in  former  times,  they  have 
taken  the  precaution  to  wall  it  in  on  the  side  of  the  city,  towards  the 
Cordilleras,  for  several  miles,  with  stone  and  hard  brick.  When 
swollen  it  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  rapid  and  deep,  and  would  cut 
off  the  communication  with  the  surrounding  country  were  it  not  for 
the  bridge. 

Messrs.  Couthouy  and  Dana  were  desirous  of  making  a  trip  to  the 
copper  mines  of  San  Felipe,  to  which  I  readily  consented,  and  gave 
them  all  the  time  possible.  Although  this  was  short,  yet  by  their 
indefatigable  industry  it  afforded  some  interesting  results.  They 


CHILI.  191 

left  Valparaiso  on  the  17th  for  San  Felipe,  which  is  about  one 
hundred  miles  north  of  Valparaiso.  They  were  to  have  taken  a 
barometer  with  them  in  case  of  ascending  some  heights,  but  it  was 
forgotten. 

These  gentlemen  took  a  biloche  as  far  as  Quillota,  a  distance  of 
forty  miles,  and  proceeded  thence  to  San  Felipe  on  horses,  for  the 
use  of  which  they  were  to  give  thirty  dollars  each,  and  one  dollar 
extra  for  the  service  of  the  peon  who  accompanied  them  for  seven 
days.  The  road  to  Quillota  was  found  good,  although  many  hills 
and  valleys  were  met  with. 

For  the  first  twenty -live  miles  the  road  passed  along  the  sea-shore, 
with  no  elevation  over  two  hundred  feet ;  it  was  thought  equal  to  the 
most  frequented  turnpikes  in  our  own  country.  At  six  miles  from 
Valparaiso,  the  road  is  cut  through  abed  of  sienite,  remarkable  for 
the  singular  vertical  dikes  of  granite  by  which  it  is  intersected.  As 
this  curious  formation  will  be  ably  treated  of  in  the  Geological  Report, 
I  shall  referthe  reader  to  that  for  a  description. 

Ten  miles  from  Valparaiso,  the  valley  of  Villa  del  Mar,  having  a 
breadth  of  nearly  three  miles,  is  crossed.  This  is  a  sandy  plain, 
through  which  a  broad  shallow  stream,  coming  from  the  eastern  hills, 
runs.  At  twenty-five  miles  they  reached  the  broad  valley  of  Coneon. 
Here  the  road  turns  to  the  eastward.  This  valley  varies  in  width 
from  three  to  six  miles.  The  character  of  the  rocks  is  granitic,  and 
they  appear  to  decompose  rapidly  when  exposed  to  the  air.  Sienite 
was  frequent,  and  on  approaching  the  mountains,  numerous  varieties 
of  trap  formation,  greenstone,  porphyry,  &c.,  were  met  with. 

Ten  miles  before  reaching  Quillota,  the  road  passes  over  a  level 
plain,  which  ‘extends  beyond  that  place.  The  hills  which  bound  the 
valley  to  the  south,  are  of  low  elevation  until  approaching  Quillota. 
Near  Quillota,  in  the  south  and  southeastern  direction,  a  lofty  ridge 
rises,  adjoining  the  campagna  of  Quillota,  which  is  one  of  the  high 
cones  used  as  sea-marks  for  the  harbour  of  Valparaiso.  This  is  lost 
sight  of  at  the  town  in  consequence  of  it  being  shut  out  by  an 
intervening  ridge.  The  town,  or  city  of  Quillota,  occupies  the 
centre  of  the  valley,  and  is  twenty  miles  from  the  sea.  They 
reached  it  about  one  hour  before  sunset,  when  they  stopped  at  Mr. 
Blanchard’s,  who  keeps  a  house  for  the  accommodation  of  foreigners. 

On  the  18th  they  arose  at  daybreak,  at  which  time  the  thermo¬ 
meter  stood  at  36°  in  the  open  air,  seventy  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  town  of  Quillota,  (according  to  Mr.  Blanchard,)  is  embraced 


192 


CHILL 


within  a  circumference  of  three  leagues.  It  contains  several  churches, 
of  simple  construction.  The  “  Calle  Largo,”  the  longest  street,  is 
upwards  of  a  league  in  length.  The  same  authority  gave  its  popula¬ 
tion  at  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  all  of  one  story,  and 
are  built  of  adobes,  with  thatched  roofs.  There  is  an  abundance  of 
fine  building  stone,  but  in  this  land  of  earthquakes,  it  is  considered 
safest  to  use  the  lightest  materials.  Almost  every  house  has  a  vineyard 
attached  to  it,  the  grapes  of  which  were  of  good  quality,  and  very  abun¬ 
dant.  At  some  places,  although  the  vintage  was  half  gathered,  yet 
the  crop  still  on  the  vines  was  such  as  would  have  been  considered 
elsewhere  an  abundant  yield.  A  portion  of  the  grapes  rot  upon  the 
vines,  as  the  inhabitants  have  not  the  industry  or  inclination  to  manu¬ 
facture  them,  although  by  proper  attention  they  would  yield  a  good 
wine.  As  it  is,  they  only  manufacture  some  into  a  hard  and  acid  wine, 
called  Masta,  or  boil  the  juice  down  to  the  favourite  drink  of  the  lower 
classes,  called  Chicha ,  which  somewhat  resembles  perry  or  cider  in 
flavour.  The  small  quantity  that  is  not  consumed,  is  distilled  into 
■aguardiente,  and  disposed  of  at  Valparaiso.  Besides  grapes,  con¬ 
siderable  quantities  of  wheat  and  Indian  corn  are  cultivated.  Apples, 
pears,  and  quinces,  are  also  raised.  The  former  are  inferior  to  our 
own,  the  latter  much  superior,  and  in  great  plenty. 

Oranges  were  also  abundant,  but  of  indifferent  flavour. 

Quillota  is  well  supplied  with  water  from  the  river  Concon  or 
Aconcagua.  The  water  is  led  through  all  the  streets  and  gardens  of 
the  place.  It  is  used  for  all  household  purposes,  as  taken  directly 
from  the  gutters,  which  are  the  recipients  of  dirt  of  every  description 
from  the  town.  For  drinking,  it  is  allowed  to  settle  in  large  jars  kept 
for  the  purpose. 

The  intercourse  with  strangers  at  Quillota,  has  been  much  less 
than  at  Valparaiso  or  Santiago,  and  consequently  they  are  less  liberal, 
and  more  bigoted.  This  was  particularly  shown,  about  four  years 
previous  to  our  visit,  by  their  burning  in  the  public  square,  a  large 
number  of  Bibles  in  the  Spanish  language,  along  with  a  heap  of 
immoral  and  indecent  pamphlets,  in  the  presence  of  the  civil,  militarv, 
and  ecclesiastical  authorities.  These  Bibles  had  been  distributed  by 
our  countryman,  Mr.  Wheelwright,  who  has  done  so  much  by  his 
enterprise  in  introducing  the  communication  by  steam  along  the 
western  coast  of  South  America. 

In  the  morning  early,  the  thermometer  stood  at  36°.  The  greatest 
cold  is  experienced  just  before  sunrise  and  after  sunset. 


CHILL 


193 


On  leaving  Quillota  they  passed  through  the  “  Calle  Largo,”  and 
took  the  southern  side  of  the  valley,  passing  along  the  foot  of  the 
Mellacca  hill,  a  smooth  and  rounded  elevation,  about  three  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference.  This  hill  is 
covered  with  a  thin  soil,  from  the  decomposition  of  its  own  rocks. 
The  valley  now  narrows,  and  in  some  places  is  not  over  a  few  hun¬ 
dred  feet  in  width.  At  about  a  league  from  Quillota,  they  ascended 
a  cuesta  of  the  Qnillota  ridge,  one  thousand  feet  above  the  plain. 
On  its  top,  they  were  much  gratified  with  the  beautiful  prospect. 
The  fruitful  plain  or  vega  of  Aconcagua,  varying  in  width  from  one 
to  six  miles,  extends  to  the  west  some  twenty  miles  to  the  ocean,  and 
is  lost  in  the  other  direction  in  the  mountains ;  it  is  watered  by  pure 
streams,  and  covered  with  farm-houses  and  hamlets,  surrounded  by 
trees  and  vineyards.  To  the  northeast  are  the  Andes,  heaped  as  it 
were  on  each  other,  until  the  towering  and  distant  peak  of  Tupon- 
gati,  with  its  giant  form,  crowns  the  whole.  One  feature  of  the  plain 
was  peculiar  :  the  mountains  seemed  to  sink  into  it  as  if  it  was  the 
ocean  itself.  In  some  cases  the  line  was  so  well  defined,  that  one 
foot  could  be  placed  on  the  plain,  and  the  other  on  the  base  of  a 
mountain,  rising  six  or  seven  thousand  feet  high.  The  sketch  will 
give  a  better  idea  of  it  than  any  description.  The  distance  of  Tupon- 
gati  is  about  forty  leagues. 


VlftA.  01'  THE  C0NC0U  WTTK  T  C  PONG  ATI  IN  THE  BIS  TAN  CE 


Captains  King  and  Fitzroy  have  made  the  height  of  this  peak 
several  hundred  feet  above  Chimborazo.  The  surrounding  moun¬ 
tains,  though  from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  feet  high  and  much  nearer, 

49 


VOL.  I. 


194 


CHILI. 


sink  into  insignificance  when  compared  with  it.  Indeed  all  the 
objects  are  upon  such  a  grand  scale  that  they  fail  to  excite  the  notice 
that  they  would  attract  if  situated  elsewhere.  On  the  top  of  this 
cuesta,  Mr.  Couthouy  obtained,  in  a  torpid  state,  a  small  quadruped 
of  the  size  of  a  mouse,  a  very  interesting  specimen  of  the  order 
Marsupia.  A  description  of  it,  with  a  spirited  drawing  by  Mr. 
Peale,  will  be  found  in  the  department  of  Mammalogy. 

The  road  over  the  cuesta  was  narrow,  steep,  and  broken.  It  de¬ 
scended  into  a  plain,  which  was  found  well  cultivated  and  watered 
by  a  branch  of  the  Aconcagua. 

The  ridges  on  the  northern  side  of  the  valley  now  became  more 
lofty  and  precipitous,  exhibiting  the  columnar  structure  more  dis¬ 
tinctly.  The  trap  dikes  were  in  some  places  four  feet  wide,  and  in 
one  place,  where  the  rock  had  been  cut  to  form  the  road,  fourteen 
dikes  were  counted  within  three  hundred  feet.  On  their  way  up 
the  valley  the  peon’s  horse  gave  out,  and  they  were  obliged  to  stop 
and  hire  another  at  a  farmer’s  house,  who  was  called  Evangelisto 
Celidono.  This  rancho,  twenty  feet  by  ten,  was  rather  better  than 
others  that  were  met  with,  but  at  the  same  time  bore  a  strong 
resemblance  to  them.  It  was  constructed  of  large  adobes,  or  rather 
blocks  of  clay,  and  finished  in  the  inside  neatly  with  the  same 
material.  It  consisted  of  but  one  apartment,  the  floor  of  which  was 
clay.  It  had  a  thatched  roof,  which  was  open  in  several  places. 
There  was  no  window.  The  door  and  the  holes  in  the  roof  supplied 
all  the  light.  The  furniture,  if  such  it  could  be  called,  consisted  of 
a  rude  bedstead  and  an  apology  for  a  table  at  one  end;  the  other 
was  divided  into  three  bins,  one  to  contain  corn,  another  beans,  and 
the  third  potatoes,  with  saddles  and  various  kinds  of  horse-gear,  and 
a  bag  or  two  of  wheat.  On  one  side  was  a  clay  seat,  three  feet  broad 
by  six  long,  and  the  height  of  an  ordinary  seat,  whilst  from  the  rafters 
hung  in  nets  a  good  supply  of  bread,  cheese,  and  numerous  strings  of 
onions,  garlic,  and  red  Chili  peppers.  There  were  besides  two  chairs 
and  a  bench.  All  the  cooking  is  done  in  a  small  detached  building, 
and  a  small  clay  oven  in  the  yard  is  an  accompaniment  of  every 
rancho.  Bread  and  an  abundance  of  grapes,  of  which  they  could  not 
eat  more  than  a  third,  were  supplied  them  for  a  “medio.”  The 
second  cuesta  was  shortly  afterwards  mounted,  of  about  five  hundred 
feet  elevation,  and  on  the  top  they  were  gratified  by  witnessing  the 
mode  in  which  the  Chilians  capture  the  wild  horses.  A  party  of  four 
or  five  horsemen,  with  about  twenty  dogs,  were  seen  formed  in  an 


CHILL 


195 


extended  crescent,  driving  the  wild  horses  towards  the  river  with 
shouts.  All  were  armed  with  the  lasso,  which  was  swinging  over 
their  heads,  to  be  in  readiness  to  entrap  the  first  that  attempted  to 
break  through  the  gradually  contracting  segment ;  the  dogs  serving 
with  the  riders  to  head  the  horses  in.  They  continued  to  advance, 
when  suddenly  a  horse  with  furious  speed  broke  the  line,  passing 
near  one  of  the  horsemen,  and  for  a  moment  it  was  thought  he  had 
escaped,  the  next  he  was  jerked  round  with  a  force  that  seemed 
sufficient  to  have  broken  his  neck,  the  horseman  having,  the  moment 
the  lasso  was  thrown,  turned  round  and  braced  himself  for  the  shock. 
The  captured  horse  now  began  to  rear  and  plunge  furiously  to  effect 
his  escape.  After  becoming  somewhat  worn  out,  he  was  suffered  to 
run  and  again  suddenly  checked.  This  was  repeated  several  times, 
when  another  plan  was  adopted.  The  dogs  were  set  on  him,  and  off 
h§  went  at  full  run,  in  the  direction  of  another  horseman,  who  threw 
his  lasso  to  entangle  his  legs  and  precipitate  him  to  the  ground. 
The  dogs  again  roused  him,  and  off  he  again  started,  and  was  in  like 
manner  brought  to  a  stand ;  after  several  trials  he  became  completely 
exhausted  and  subdued,  when  he  stood  perfectly  still  and  allowed  his 
captors  to  lay  hands  upon  him.  The  shouts  of  the  men,  the  barking 
of  the  dogs,  and  the  scampering  of  the  horses,  made  the  whole  scene 
quite  exciting. 

Shortly  afterwards  it  was  suspected  their  peon  was  leading  them 
astray ;  this  was  evident  by  their  crossing  and  recrossing  the  river, 
and  wandering  at  random  on  a  road  which  was  apparently  but  little 
travelled.  After  a  toilsome  route  of  three  and  a  half  hours  they  found 
themselves  surrounded  by  many  branches  of  the  river,  whose  banks 
were  but  a  few  inches  above  the  water.  The  peon  then  acknowledged 
himself  bewildered,  and  that  he  had  missed  his  way.  Crossing  the 
streams  was  attended  with  some  danger,  for  owing  to  their  rapidity 
and  depth  they  were  near  sweeping  the  horses  off  their  legs.  Return¬ 
ing  a  league  or  two  they  fortunately  met  a  muleteer,  who  put  them  in 
the  road,  but  their  horses  were  now  so  exhausted  that  they  were 
compelled  to  seek  lodgings  at  a  rancho.  After  applying  at  several 
they  succeeded  in  getting  a  place  to  lie  in,  after  making  many  pro¬ 
mises  of  liberal  payment.  A  similar  course,  notwithstanding  a  positive 
refusal  or  denial  of  having  any  provisions,  procured  them  a  casuela, 
served  in  a  large  wooden  bowl,  with  wooden  spoons.  This  is  a  sort 
of  Chilian  chowder,  with  a  plentiful  supply  of  garlic,  onions,  Chili 
pepper,  &c.,  and  one  of  the  favourite  dishes  of  the  country.  In 


196 


CHILI. 


three  days’  ride  they  had  passed  over  about  sixty  miles ;  the  highest 
temperature  experienced  was  65J°,  the  lowest  35|°.  At  the  rancho 
where  they  stopped  for  the  night,  the  temperature  fell  20^°  in  three 
hours. 

They  passed  the  night  with  the  usual  annoyance  in  most  houses 
in  Chili,  for  fleas  were  found  in  great  abundance.  In  the  morning 
the  temperature  was  35 f°,  and  the  ground  covered  with  hoar  frost. 
The  rancho  was  supposed  to  be  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  mountains  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood 
were  from  six  to  seven  thousand  feet  high,  exhibiting  a  gorgeous 
appearance  as  the  sunbeams  lighted  them  up,  and  at  times  the 
brilliancy  was  so  great  as  to  dazzle  the  eye.  They  left  the  rancho  at 
seven  o’clock,  and  although  it  was  only  ten  miles  distant,  they  did 
not  reach  San  F elipe  before  eleven.  The  road  passed  over  a  third 
cuesta,  which  exhibited  a  regular  columnar  structure.  The  hills 
inclining  to  the  northward  open  and  present  to  view  the  broad  plain 
of  Aconcagua.  San  Felipe  de  Aconcagua  stands  about  fifteen 
miles  from  the  foot  of  the  Andes,  and  the  mountains  are  seen  from 
thence  in  all  their  grandeur.  The  peak  of  Tupongati  is,  however, 
lost  sight  of  as  the  town  is  approached,  disappearing  behind  the 
nearer  snowy  peaks.  This  mountain  is  situated  on  the  dividing  or 
eastern  ridge  of  the  Cordilleras,  and  within  the  United  Provinces  of 
La  Plata. 

On  arriving  at  San  Felipe,  they  proceeded  at  once  to  the  house  of 
Mr.  Henry  Newman,  an  English  gentleman  resident  there,  and 
engaged  in  mining  operations,  to  whom  they  had  letters.  Mr. 
Newman  was  not  at  home,  but  they  were  hospitably  received  by 
his  lady,  a  native  of  Chili,  who  treated  them  with  great  kindness 
and  attention.  In  the  absence  of  her  husband,  she  made  them 
acquainted  with  an  American  gentleman,  a  Mr.  Chase,  who  happened 
to  be  on  a  visit  there,  from  Santiago.  He  had  been  in  Chili  since 
the  failure  of  the  expedition  of  Carrera,  when  he,  with  several 
of  his  companions,  settled  in  Chili,  and  afterwards  engaged  in 
mining  operations.  He  had  several  times  amassed  a  large  property, 
and  as  often  lost  it,  by  the  revolutions  that  had  taken  place  in  the 
country.  He  is  now  engaged  in  working  a  silver  mine,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Santiago,  and  attempting  the  German  process  of  smelting, 
as  there  are  vast  quantities  of  ore,  containing  a  large  per  centage  of 
silver,  which  have  hitherto  been  neglected,  from  the  impracticability 
of  separating  the  silver  by  the  usual  method.  There  is  now  only  one 


CHILI. 


197 


survivor  from  among  the  thirty  persons  who  settled  in  Chili  with  Mr. 
Chase.  From  his  operations  he  expects  in  a  few  years  to  realize 
a  large  fortune. 

The  town  of  San  F elipe  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity,  in  the 
form  of  a  square,  surrounded  by  extensive  alamedas,  which  are  planted 
with  Lombardy  poplars.  Mr.  Newman  gave  the  population  at  from 
twelve  to  thirteen  thousands.  In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  a  large  open 
square,  one  side  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  town  hall,  and  offices 
connected  with  the  municipality.  Opposite  are  the  church  and 
barracks,  and  the  remaining  sides  are  occupied  with  shops  and 
private  dwellings.  The  houses  are  all  of  one  story,  and  are  in  a  good 
style  of  building.  The  better  class  of  houses  stand  some  distance 
back  from  the  street,  and  are  decorated  tastefully  with  paintings  in 
fresco  on  the  walls.  Roses  and  jessamines  were  seen  in  every  court¬ 
yard,  and  the  gardens  are  well  filled  with  various  fruits,  apples, 
peaches,  pears,  grapes,  pomegranates,  oranges,  lemons,  and  quinces ; 
the  latter  are  remarkably  fine,  and  in  great  plenty.  The  houses,  as 
in  other  parts  of  Chili,  have  no  fire-places,  in  lieu  of  which  they  use 
brazeros ,  or  pans  of  live  coal,  when  they  require  heat.  Mr.  Chase 
took  them  to  a  friend  of  his,  to  see  the  process  of  manufacturing  the 
acida  and  aquadiente  of  the  country.  The  whole  process  is  carried 
on  in  a  large  court  behind  the  house.  The  grapes  are  brought  in 
large  baskets,  or  on  hand-barrows,  made  with  poles  and  raw  hide, 
and  are  emptied  in  heaps,  under  an  open  shed.  Here  several  small 
boards  are  placed,  on  which  the  grapes  are  laid  by  the  men,  who 
separate  them  from  the  stalks,  by  rolling  them  rapidly  in  their  hands, 
the  grapes  falling  along  the  boards  which  are  inclined  into  a  large 
vat,  where  they  are  trodden  out  by  men.  The  juice,  which  runs  off 
through  a  rude  strainer  at  one  end,  is  received  into  large  earthen  jars ; 
the  pumice,  or  residuum,  is  from  time  to  time  taken  out  of  the  vat, 
and  placed  on  a  platform,  when  more  juice  is  expressed,  by  laying 
boards  and  heavy  stones  upon  it.  That  part  which  is  intended  for 
wine  proper,  or  the  “  must;”  is  received  like  the  first  into  earthen 
jars,  where  it  undergoes  the  requisite  fermentation,  and  receives  a 
small  quantity  of  brandy,  or  the  aquadiente  of  the  country,  to  give  it 
body.  The  chicha  is  made  by  boiling  down  the  clear  grape-juice  after 
fermentation,  for  several  hours,  over  a  slow  fire.  After  this  process, 
it  was  put  in  enormous  earthen  jars,  containing  sixty  to  one  hundred 
and  twenty  gallons,  which  are  covered  over,  and  tightly  luted.  The 
portion  not  required  for  consumption,  is  afterwards  distilled  with 

50 


VOL.  i. 


198 


CHILI. 


the  pumice  into  aquadiente  of  the  country.  The  stills  were  of  the 
simplest  construction,  being  nothing  more  than  a  number  of  large 
earthen  pots,  holding  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  gallons,  placed  in 
the  ground  over  a  long  narrow  oven.  Instead  of  a  worm,  a  straight 
pipe  of  copper  is  used,  about  twenty  feet  long,  one  of  these  was 
inserted  into  each  pot  or  jar,  and  to  effect  the  condensation,  a  stream 
of  water  from  the  river  was  led  so  as  to  pass  over  them.  All  their 
agricultural  implements  are  equally  rude  and  primitive.  Their 
ploughs  are  nothing  more  than  a  crooked  stick,  with  the  share  end 
pointed,  and  hardened  by  charring.  Notwithstanding  these  disad¬ 
vantages,  they  are  enabled  to  raise  large  crops,  and  bring  their  farms 
into  tolerable  condition. 

In  the  evening  they  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  Mr.  Newman,  who 
returned,  and  his  reception  was,  if  possible,  even  more  kind  than 
that  of  his  good  lady.  Learning  that  our  gentlemen  wished  to  visit 
some  of  the  mines  in  the  neighbourhood,  he  immediately  made  ar¬ 
rangement  to  send  his  agent  to  his  own  establishment,  five  leagues 
beyond  San  Felipe,  and  provided  them  horses  and  mules,  in  order 
that  their  own  might  recruit  for  their  return  journey.  The  tempera¬ 
ture  at  San  Felipe  varied,  between  noon  and  10  p.  m.,  from  63°  to  49°, 
The  night  was  remarkably  clear  and  fine. 

The  next  morning  they  started,  with  Mr.  George  Alderson,  for  the 
mines,  which  are  near  the  summit  of  the  first  Cordillera,  on  the 
Mendoza  road,  and  about  three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  They  were  here  informed  that  in  consequence  of  the  late  heavy 
falls  of  snow,  the  roads  were  all  covered  and  congealed,  and  that  it 
extended  several  thousand  feet  below  the  limit  of  perpetual  snows. 
They  had  no  use  for  the  neglected  barometer,  and  had  some  satisfac¬ 
tion  in  feeling  they  had  not  been  troubled  with  it.  About  a  league 
from  San  Felipe  they  passed  a  large  porphyritic  mass,  some  spe¬ 
cimens  broken  from  which  contained  grains  of  quartz.  They  then 
passed  up  a  singular  gully,  about  twenty  feet  deep  and  as  many  wide, 
for  about  a  league.  On  leaving  the  gully,  they  gradually  ascended 
until  they  reached  the  ranchos  at  Jaquel,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain 
where  the  mines  were  situated.  It  being  too  late  to  make  the  ascent 
to  the  mines  that  night,  the  running  streams  in  the  neighbourhood 
were  visited,  but  nothing  was  found.  They  were  entirely  destitute 
of  fluviatile  shells  and  mollusca.  Other  objects  of  interest  were 
however  obtained,  in  the  classes  of  insects  and  reptilia,  which  will 
be  described  in  the  reports  of  these  different  departments.  At  sunset 


CHILL 


199 


the  snowy  mountains  exhibited  a  magnificent  sight ;  lighted  up  and 
glistening  in  the  sunshine,  it  appeared  as  though  some  tremendous 
conflagration  had  broken  out.  After  this  the  progress  of  night  pro¬ 
duces  a  peculiar  effect.  It  was  quite  dark  in  the  valley,  while  the 
lofty  summits  were  yet  tinged  by  the  setting  sun.  The  limit  of 
darkness  was  distinctly  seen  advancing  upwards  like  a  dark  wall,  and 
as  it  ascended,  peak  after  peak  became  lost  to  view,  until  the  whole 
was  enshrouded  in  obscurity. 

The  part  of  this  valley  where  the  ranchos  are  situated  is  called  La 
Vega  of  Jaquel.  This  is  the  principal  smelting-place,  the  ore  being 
brought  here  by  mules  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  down  whose 
sides  it  is  thrown  from  the  mines.  The  descent  is  about  two 
thousand  feet,  and  very  steep.  Mr.  Alderson  stated  that  it  took 
thirty  seconds  for  the  ore  to  descend.  The  face  of  the  mountain, 
from  long  usage,  is  worn  quite  smooth.  The  ranchos  at  the  mine, 
about  six  hundred  feet  below  the  summit,  on  the  steep  mountain  side, 
are  visible  from  here.  The  Jaquel  valley  is  said  to  contain  a  few 
sulphur  springs,  which  are  reported  as  poisonous.  Our  gentlemen 
had  not  time  to  visit  them.  The  temperature,  before  leaving 
San  Felipe,  at  6  o’clock,  a.  m.,  was  45°,  at  10  a.  m.,  54°;  at 
Jaquel,  three  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  at  5h  30m,  it  was  55°,  at  11 
p.  m.  51°. 

Mr.  Newman  had  previously  lost  much  property  here  by  the 
burning  of  his  whole  establishment,  excepting  two  buildings,  fire 
having  been  communicated  to  the  thatched  roof  by  the  sparks  from 
the  furnace,  during  a  tornado  that  passed  over.  So  rapidly  had  the  * 
flames  spread,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  that  Mr.  Newman  and  his 
agent  saved  their  lives.  Besides  the  loss  of  buildings,  a  large  quantity 
of  machinery,  lately  imported  from  England,  was  destroyed. 

On  the  21st  May,  they  set  out  on  mules  for  the  mines,  accompanied 
by  Mr.  Alderson,  and  reached  them  about  ten  o’clock.  Their  first 
act  was  to  change  their  boots  for  a  pair  of  raw-hide  shoes,  such  as 
are  used  by  the  miners,  in  order  to  ensure  a  safer  footing.  They 
now  entered  the  principal  gallery,  which  was  about  seven  feet  high 
and  five  broad,  excavated  for  about  twenty  yards  horizontally ;  it  then 
divides  into  several  branches,  and  these  again  into  others,  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  yards  in  length. 

The  greatest  extent  of  any  one  gallery  is  over  thirty  feet.  The 
mountain  has  been  penetrated  horizontally  to  about  four  hundred  feet, 
in  the  direction  of  northeast  to  east-northeast,  as  the  veins  run,  and 


200 


CHILL 


vertically  to  a  depth  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  Each 
person  was  provided  with  a  tallow  candle,  stuck  in  the  end  of  a  split 
stick  six  feet  long,  and  caution  was  given  not  to  lose  sight  of  the 
guide,  for  the  galleries,  although  small,  are  so  numerous,  and  commu¬ 
nicate  with  each  other  so  frequently,  that  a  person  might  easily  be  lost. 

The  ladders,  or  rather  posts,  by  which  the  descents  are  made,  are 
not  a  little  dangerous.  They  are  not  all  secured,  so  that  it  becomes 
necessary  for  one  person  to  hold  the  ladder  whilst  another  descends, 
and  it  causes  no  small  uneasiness  to  see  the  foot  of  it  resting  on  a 
mere  ledge.  These  shafts  are  at  times  crossed  by  a  gallery,  where 
but  a  single  post  is  laid  over  them,  and  they  pass  over  it  by  steadying 
themselves  against  the  side  wall.  At  the  bottom  of  one  of  the  shafts, 
at  about  three  hundred  feet  from  the  mouth  of  the  mine,  the  thermo¬ 
meter,  after  remaining  for  half  an  hour,  stood  at  52°,  the  air  outside 
being  56°.  This  may  be  considered  a  fair  test  of  the  temperature. 
They  report  that  they  perceive  no  difference  in  the  mine,  in  winter 
and  summer. 

There  appears  to  be  little  system  in  working  the  mines,  and  little 
knowledge  of  the  structure  of  the  rock  or  the  courses  of  the  veins. 
Mr.  Alderson  mentioned  that  a  few  months  previously,  they  had  been 
working  for  several  weeks,  extending  a  shaft,  without  meeting  a 
particle  of  ore  to  repay  their  labour,  and  they  were  just  about  giving 
up  the  search,  when  the  mayoral,  or  master- workman,  declaring  he 
would  have  a  last  blow  for  luck,  struck  the  rock  with  all  his  force. 
This  detached  a  large  fragment,  and  to  their  surprise  and  delight, 
laid  open  a  vein  which  proved  the  largest  and  richest  that  had  been 
worked  for  many  years.  From  this  it  would  appear  that  the  employ¬ 
ment  is  attended  with  much  uncertainty,  and  after  exhausting  one  of 
these  treasures,  there  are  no  means  or  signs  known  to  them  by  which 
they  can  ascertain  the  best  direction  to  take  to  discover  another. 

This  mine  is  situated  in  claystone,  the  sedimentary  rock  of  the 
region,  where  it  is  intersected  by  a  dike  of  compact  clinkstone. 
The  dike  is  about  six  feet  wide.  The  adjoining  claystone  has  a 
dark  greenish  brown  colour,  and  resembles  a  wacke.  It  is  so  much 
fissured  that  it  is  difficult  to  break  off  a  small  piece  which  will 
present  a  fresh  surface.  The  green  carbonate  of  copper,  and  silicious 
carbonate  of  copper  (chrysocolla),  stain  the  rock  for  one  hundred  feet 
from  the  vein,  occupying  the  fissures,  and  giving  the  surface  a  green 
or  bluish  tinge.  In  some  places  chrysocolla  forms  in  small  botryoidal 
incrustations  on  the  face  of  the  rock.  The  ores  of  copper  occur  in 


CHILL 


201 


veins  in  the  claystone  and  the  rock  of  this  dike,  but  most  abundantly 
near  the  junction  of  the  two  rocks.  The  veins  are  very  irregular, 
and  are  more  or  less  elongated.  They  are  occasionally  connected, 
but  in  the  excavations  frequently  run  out.  In  order  to  discover 
new  ones,  they  follow  the  lines  of  the  green  carbonates,  or  the 
seams  of  calcareous  spar  and  quartz.  The  name  of  metal  is  given 
as  a  general  term  to  all  the  ores,  that  of  quizo  to  the  lode  in  which 
they  are  contained. 

The  ores  contain  more  or  less  sulphur,  and  often  a  portion  of 
arsenic.  Some  silver  is  also  occasionally  mixed  with  the  copper. 
Some  of  the  ores  found  at  this  mine  have  been  very  rich,  yielding 
sixty-live  to  seventy  per  cent,  of  pure  copper.  The  average  yield  is 
about  forty-five  per  cent.  The  various  qualities  are  denominated, 
metal-regio ,  platiado ,  bronze ,  and  piedra  bruta.  The  last,  as  the  name 
implies,  is  worthless. 

The  mines,  by  the  light  of  the  numerous  candles,  exhibited  all  the 
shades  of  green,  blue,  yellow,  purple,  bronze,  &c.,  having  a  metallic 
and  lustrous  appearance.  The  confined  air,  with  the  heat  of  so 
many  candles,  made  it  quite  oppressive,  and  persons  who  have  not 
often  visited  mines,  are  subject  to  faintness  and  vertigo.  Mr. 
Alderson  and  Mr.  Dana  were  both  affected  by  it.  It  was  the  first 
time  the  former  had  ever  penetrated  so  far,  Mr.  Newman  and  himself 
being  governed  by  the  report  of  the  mayoral,  and  the  ore  brought  up 
in  their  operations.  The  miners  were  not  a  little  astonished  at  our 
gentlemen  loading  themselves,  besides  the  specimens  of  ores,  with 
the  piedra  bruta  which  they  considered  of  no  value.  The  manner  of 
labour  in  the  mines  is  in  as  rude  a  state  as  it  was  found  in  the  agri¬ 
cultural  branches  of  industry.  A  clumsy  pick-axe,  a  short  crowbar, 
a  stone  cutter’s  chisel,  and  an  enormous  oblong  iron  hammer,  of 
twenty -five  pounds  weight,  were  the  only  tools.  The  hammer  is  only 
used  when  the  ore  is  too  high  to  be  reached  with  the  pick  or  crowbar. 
The  miners,  from  the  constant  exercise  of  their  arms  and  chest,  have 
them  well  developed,  and  appear  brawny  figures.  When  the  ore  is 
too  tough  to  be  removed  by  the  ordinary  methods,  they  blast  it  off  in 
small  fragments,  not  daring  to  use  large  blasts,  lest  the  rock  should 
cave  in  upon  them.  Only  a  few  weeks  previous  to  their  visit,  the 
mayoral,  while  at  the  farthest  end  of  the  gallery,  was  alarmed  by  the 
rattling  down  of  some  stones,  and  before  he  could  retreat,  the  walls 
caved  in  for  several  yards  outside  of  where  he  was,  leaving  but  a 

51 


VOL.  I. 


202 


CHILL 


small  space.  It  required  eighteen  hours  of  unceasing  efforts  of  nearly 
a  hundred  men  to  extricate  him  from  his  perilous  situation. 

The  ore  is  brought  to  the  mouth  of  the  mine  on  the  backs  of  men, 
in  sacks  made  of  raw  hide,  and  holding  about  one  hundred  pounds. 
Whenever  a  sufficient  quantity  to  load  a  drove  of  mules  is  extracted, 
it  is  thrown  down  the  mountain  slide,  and  then  carried  to  the  furnace 
at  Jaquel.  Only  seventeen  miners  were  employed ;  previous  to  this 
the  number  employed  was  one  hundred.  Whenever  a  richer  vein 
was  struck,  a  larger  number  were  employed,  who  could  always  be 
easily  obtained  by  foreigners,  the  natives  preferring  to  work  for  them, 
as  they  say  whatever  the  profits  or  losses  may  he,  they  are  sure  of 
being  regularly  paid.  The  wages  are  small — from  three  to  four 
dollars  per  month,  in  addition  to  their  food.  They  are  allowed  to 
draw  a  third  of  their  pay  on  the  last  Saturday  of  every  month,  and 
full  settlement  is  made  twice  a  year.  They  are  supplied  with 
clothing  and  other  necessaries,  out  of  which  the  agent  makes  a  per 
centage,  and  which  is  charged  against  their  wages. 

There  is  one  admirable  regulation  of  the  Chilian  government,  that 
of  not  permitting  liquors  to  be  brought  within  a  league  of  any  mine, 
under  a  severe  penalty,  which  is  strictly  enforced.  The  cost  of  the 
maintenance  of  each  workman  is  not  great;  they  are  allowed  as 
rations  for  breakfast  four  handfuls  of  dried  figs,  and  the  same  of 
walnuts :  value  about  three  cents.  F or  dinner  they  have  bread,  and 
fresh  beef  or  pork.  Small  stores,  as  sugar  and  tea,  they  find  them¬ 
selves.  One  of  the  greatest  inconveniences,  and  which  is  attended 
with  some  expense,  is  the  supply  of  the  miners  with  water,  which 
must  be  brought  up  the  mountains. 

The  miners’  huts  are  the  last  dwellings  on  the  Chilian  side  of  the 
Andes.  Mr.  Alderson  mentioned  that  in  five  hours’  ride  from  thence, 
a  lake  was  reported  to  exist,  three  leagues  in  circumference,  on  the 
summit  of  a  conical  mountain,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  beach  of 
sand  and  gravel,  and  has  no  outlet.  Several  persons  confirmed  this 
statement  as  to  the  existence  of  the  lake,  that  it  had  no  visible  outlet, 
and  that  the  water  was  always  at  the  same  level.  Although  desirous 
of  visiting  so  interesting  a  spot,  they  found  they  had  not  time  left  to 
accomplish  it.  They  therefore  determined,  instead,  to  make  a  visit 
to  the  coal  mine  which  was  reported  as  existing  about  two  leagues 
farther  on  the  Cordilleras.  They  reached  this  in  about  three  hours. 
Leaving  their  mules,  they  scrambled  up  the  face  of  a  cliff  for  some 


C  H  I  L  I. 


203 


two  hundred  feet,  where  some  fragments  of  coal,  more,  however, 
resembling  lignite,  and  retaining  perfectly  the  structure  of  the 
original  wood,  were  found.  Other  pieces  had  the  form  of  coal, 
and  on  ignition  burned  quite  freely,  showing  the  presence  of  bitumen 
and  sulphur.  The  last  was  always  found  in  small  lumps,  resembling 
the  siftings  of  coal,  and  was  embedded  in  a  friable  earth,  containing 
saltpetre.  No  coal  was  found  in  situ;  their  time  did  not  admit  of  any 
extended  examination.  Coal  would  indeed  be  a  most  valuable  discovery 
for  the  Chilian  mines,  where  wood  is  so  scarce  that  they  are  prevented 
from  reducing  the  ore,  and  in  consequence,  as  I  have  before  remarked, 
they  are  obliged  to  send  it  to  Valparaiso  for  shipment.  The  principal 
ores  which  the  mine  of  Mr.  Newman  affords,  are  the  vitreous,  gray,  and 
variegated  copper.  Copper  pyrites,  and  the  red  oxide  of  copper,  also 
occur,  and  the  silicious  carbonate  (chrysocolla)  is  abundantly  disse¬ 
minated  through  the  rocks.  These  ores  are  generally  massive,  or 
show  only  imperfect  traces  of  crystallization.  Native  copper  is 
rarely  found  at  this  mine.  Its  occurrence  is  not  welcomed  by  the 
miners,  as  they  consider  it  a  sure  sign  that  the  vein  will  soon  run  out. 
It  is  usually  found  with  large  quantities  of  red  oxide  of  copper. 
According  to  Mr.  Dana  this  would  seem  to  indicate,  that  the  native 
copper  and  red  oxide  have  originated  from  the  reduction  of  other  ores 
by  heat,  and  this  would  account  for  the  above  fact,  which  seems  to  be 
well  established  among  miners. 

Copper  ores  occur  sparingly  at  other  localities  in  this  part  of  Chili ; 
the  valuable  mines  are  chiefly  confined  to  the  northern  provinces. 

After  again  returning  to  Jaquel,  they  mounted  their  horses,  and 
reached  San  Felipe,  after  about  two  hours’  hard  gallop.  The  tem¬ 
perature  during  the  day  varied  from  44°  at  six  o’clock  in  the  morning, 
at  Jaquel,  to  58°  at  noon,  on  the  hill  at  the  mines;  and  at  10,  p.  m., 
at  San  F elipe,  it  was  at  47°. 

On  the  22d,  they  set  out  on  their  return,  after  a  good  deal  of  delay, 
owing  to  the  stupidity  of  their  peon,  who  had  indulged  too  much  in 
his  favourite  chicha.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  kindness  and  atten¬ 
tion  shown  them  by  Mr.  Newman  and  his  lady  and  Mr.  Chase.  Mr. 
Alderson,  the  agent,  devoted  himself  to  them  for  two  days,  during 
which  time  he  left  nothing  undone  that  could  promote  and  forward 
the  object  of  their  visit.  It  affords  me  great  pleasure  to  bear  testi¬ 
mony  also  to  the  numerous  fine  specimens  of  copper,  &c.,  from  other 
mines,  which  Mr.  Newman  presented  to  the  Expedition,  and  to 
return  him  our  thanks  for  them  and  the  kind  attention  of  his  lady. 


204 


CHILL 


Our  gentlemen  returned  to  the  rancho  of  Evangelisto  Celidono,  where 
they  passed  the  night,  and  were  furnished  with  a  like  casuela  as 
before.  All  the  farmers  they  met  were  a  simple,  good-hearted  set, 
caring  for  little  beyond  their  own  immediate  neighbourhood,  and 
knowing  little  but  to  supply  their  own  wants.  Celidono  informed 
them  that  he  had  been  at  the  Port  (Valparaiso)  only  once  in  five  years. 
He  seems  to  have  all  that  is  needful.  His  wife  was  engaged  in  spin¬ 
ning  with  the  distaff  and  spindle.  There  being  but  one  room,  they 
were  accommodated  on  the  clay  floor,  spread  with  their  pillions  and 
saddle-cloths,  while  Celidono  and  his  wife  occupied  the  bed.  The  tem¬ 
perature  varied  from  65-30°  on  their  arrival,  at  5h  30ra,  to  53°  at  11  p.  m. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th,  the  thermometer  stood  at  51°,  on 
the  summit  of  the  cuesta,  and  at  58°  between  9  and  10  o’clock. 
Here  the  scene  was  very  different  from  what  they  had  before  wit¬ 
nessed.  The  plain  they  had  just  left  was  in  broad  sunshine,  showing 
distinctly  its  many  cultivated  farms ;  that  to  which  they  were  about 
descending  was  a  sea  of  dense  white  clouds,  extending  seaward  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach,  as  though  a  vast  body  of  white  cumuli  had 
descended  and  filled  the  whole  extent  of  the  Quillota  valley.  These 
clouds  kept  rolling  off  towards  the  sea  before  the  light  wind,  and  rose 
gradually  as  they  passed  off.  They  reached  Mr.  Blanchard’s,  at 
Quillota,  at  noon,  when  the  temperature  was  60°,  and  taking  their 
biloche,  they  arrived  at  Valparaiso  in  the  evening. 

Having  heard  much  about  the  rise  of  the  coast,  from  the  effects  of 
earthquakes,  I  was  desirous  of  gaining  all  the  information  in  relation 
to  this  subject.  From  the  residents  the  accounts  are  so  contradictory, 
that  no  correct  intelligence  can  be  obtained.  The  decrease  in  the 
depth  of  the  bay,  I  have  before  said,  can  be  accounted  for,  and  un¬ 
doubtedly  is  owing,  so  far  as  it  has  taken  place,  to  the  wash  of  the 
hills ;  and  the  formation  of  a  new  street  which  has  been  reclaimed 
from  the  bay,  has  given  rise  to  the  idea,  and  it  is  pointed  out  as 
having  been  built  upon  ground  left  dry  by  the  earthquake  of  1832. 
Several  of  our  naturalists  made  a  close  examination  of  the  coast  in  the 
neighbourhood,  the  result  of  which  on  the  minds  of  all  was,  that  there 
was  no  proof  of  elevation.  That  changes  in  the  beaches,  through  the 
agency  of  the  heavy  rollers  and  the  northers  that  yearly  occur,  are 
constantly  going  on,  is  quite  evident ;  but  these,  as  one  would  natu¬ 
rally  suppose,  increase  the  shores  only  in  some  places,  while  in  others 
they  are  wearing  it  away. 

Earthquakes  do  not  appear  to  happen  at  any  particular  season. 


CHILI. 


205 


The  great  one  of  1730,  was  in  July;  that  of  1751,  in  May;  and  those 
of  1822  and  1835,  both  of  which  did  much  damage,  in  February. 

Slight  shocks  of  earthquakes  are  experienced  very  frequently 
throughout  Chili.  One  during  our  stay,  on  the  28th  of  May,  started 
every  one  from  their  beds,  but  the  shock  was  not  repeated.  No 
peculiar  state  of  the  weather,  or  other  phenomenon,  seems  to  precede 
them.  That  of  1835  nearly  destroyed  the  towns  of  Concepcion, 
Talcahuana,  Arauco,  Angeles,  Coluna,  Chillian,  Talca,  and  Cau- 
quenes.  It  was  very  slightly  felt  in  Valparaiso,  and  scarcely  at  all 
farther  north.  The  sea  receded  in  Valparaiso  two  feet,  and  returned 
immediately.  The  ground  seemed  to  swell  under  the  feet.  In  Juan 
Fernandez  it  was  very  severely  felt ;  and  the  following  extract  from 
the  report  of  the  then  governor  of  that  island,  to  the  supreme  govern¬ 
ment,  is  interesting.  “  I  wras  walking,  at  the  Castle  of  Santa  Barbara, 
with  the  commandant  of  the  garrison,  when  we  suddenly  observed 
that  the  sea  had  come  over  the  mole.  Fearing  great  damage,  I 
hastened  to  have  the  boats  drawn  from  under  a  shed,  and  prepared 
for  use.  At  the  same  moment  we  heard  a  loud  roaring,  as  of  thunder, 
and  saw  a  white  column,  like  smoke,  rise  from  the  sea,  a  short 
distance  from  the  place  called  ‘  El  Punto  de  Bacallao ,’  and  then  felt 
the  earth  move.  The  sea  retired  about  two  hundred  feet,  when  it 
commenced  returning  with  great  violence.  This  time  it  carried 
nearly  every  thing  with  it;  broke  down  all  the  houses  and  huts  but 
the  one  recently  built  of  stone  and  mortar  to  contain  provisions. 
Happily,  this  withstood  its  violence,  although  the  water  ascended 
more  than  six  feet  up  its  sides.  It  then  retired  again  to  its  usual 
height.  Constant  shocks  were  felt  during  the  night,  and  the  sea,  at 
the  place  before  mentioned,  continued  throwing  up  water  and  smoke 
like  a  volcano.’ ’ 

Chili  abounds  with  volcanic  mountains,  but  few  of  them  are  in  an 
active  state  of  eruption,  which  may  account  for  the  frequency  of 
earthquakes.  The  peak  of  Tupongati  is  the  only  one  in  activity  in 
this  section.  Our  travellers  to  the  Cordilleras  were  not  fortunate 
enough  to  get  a  sight  of  it  at  night. 

Although  by  the  constitution  the  Catholic  religion  is  the  established 
one,  yet  they  have  become  so  enlightened  as  to  tolerate  that  of  the 
Protestant  Episcopal  form.  A  license  could  not  be  given  to  build  a 
church,  but  the  authorities,  on  being  asked  if  the  worship  would  be 
permitted,  readily  gave  an  assurance  that  it  would  not  be  interfered 

52 


VOL.  I. 


206 


CHILI. 


with ;  that  although  they  could  not  allow  a  church  to  be  put  up, 
there  could  be  no  objection  to  their  worshipping  in  a  private  dwell¬ 
ing.  Since  then  a  very  nice  room  has  been  prepared,  and  a  resident 
chaplain,  Mr.  Rowlandson,  has  been  called,  who  officiates  regularly 
on  the  Sabbath.  The  effect  that  it  has  produced  on  the  habits  of  the 
foreign  residents,  of  whom  there  are  about  three  hundred,  is  marked. 
About  one  hundred  and  eighty  of  them  are  constant  attendants  on  the 
service. 

What  is  somewhat  remarkable,  the  person  most  in  favour  of 
toleration  and  building  a  church,  is  the  priest  of  Valparaiso ;  and  the 
only  vote  recorded  for  toleration,  on  the  adoption  of  the  constitution, 
was  given  by  a  Catholic  bishop. 

The  influence  of  the  clergy  is  great,  and  they  have  much  political 
power  in  the  state.  The  people  may  generally  be  called  bigoted,  and 
under  the  control  of  the  priests.  The  clergy  as  a  body  stand  very 
fair ;  they  encourage  schools.  The  inhabitants  are  ignorant  as  yet ; 
their  opportunities  for  instruction  are  limited.  There  is  no  impe¬ 
diment  in  the  way  of  Protestants  teaching. 

Although  it  may  be  somewhat  trite  to  mention  it,  yet  one  cannot 
but  admire  the  sight  of  the  Oracion ,  or  sunset  prayer.  Whatever 
may  be  our  idea  of  Catholic  forms  of  worship,  no  one  can  witness  it 
here  without  feeling  the  solemn  and  impressive  scene  of  a  whole 
community,  on  the  striking  of  the  evening  bells,  instantly  stopping 
employment,  both  within  and  without  doors,  and  uncovering  their 
heads  to  offer  up  their  thanks  or  prayer  for  a  few  minutes.  It  must 
bring  reflection,  unless  habit  so  blunts  the  mind  and  feeling  as 
to  make  it  callous  to  impressions  well  calculated  to  make  men 
consider  their  evil  ways,  and  feel  thankful  for  the  blessings  they 
receive. 

The  commerce  of  Chili  is  increasing  rapidly.  Valparaiso  numbers 
sixty  coasting  vessels,  of  from  fifty  to  three  hundred  and  fifty  tons,  part 
of  which  are  engaged  in  the  trade  from  V aldivia  and  Chiloe  to  the 
northern  ports,  with  timber  and  staves;  and  part  are  charged  from 
Maule  and  Concepcion  with  grain,  returning  in  ballast  to  Valpa¬ 
raiso,  to  load  with  foreign  manufactures  for  the  various  ports  of 
the  republic.  The  exports  are  taken  away  in  foreign  vessels, 
and  consist  of  copper,  hides,  wool,  hemp,  and  plata  pina.  About 
sixty  thousand  quintals  of  copper  are  exported  from  Huasco,  Co- 
quimbo,-  and  Valparaiso  annually;  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two 


CHILL 


207 


hundred  thousand  quintals  of  100  lbs.  in  copper  ores  are  shipped 
annually  to  England,  and  one  hundred  thousand  marks  of  8  oz.  in 
bar  silver.  The  returns  from  sales  of  English  goods  are  made 
mostly  in  bullion. 

Thirty  thousand  hides  are  exported,  principally  from  Valparaiso. 
Five  to  six  hundred  quintals  of  wool  are  shipped  annually  from 
Concepcion.  The  grain  and  country  produce  are  generally  sent 
to  Peru  and  Guayaquil.  Very  little  silver  is  coined  in  the  country, 
dollars  being  an  article  of  merchandise,  worth  from  seven  to  nine  per 
cent.,  according  to  the  supplies  from  Bolivia  or  Peru.  From  eight 
hundred  thousand  to  one  million  silver  dollars  come  annually  from 
Cobija  to  Valparaiso,  and  are  shipped  thence  to  England.  Gold 
coins  are  issued  from  the  mint  at  Santiago,  doubloons,  half,  quarter, 
and  eighth  doubloon  pieces ;  the  current  value  of  the  ounce  is  seven¬ 
teen  dollars  twenty-five  cents. 

The  annual  imports  into  Chili  and  Peru  have  averaged — 


From  England,  ....... 

$6,000,000 

“  the  United  Slates,  ..... 

1,500,000 

“  France,  ....... 

600,000 

“  Germany,  ....... 

500,000 

“  other  quarters,  ...... 

2,000,000 

Total,  ..... 

$10,600,000 

The  returns  from  Chili  are  in — 

Copper  and  copper  ore,  ..... 

$2,000,000 

Bullion,  ........ 

1,800,000 

Hides,  wheat,  hemp,  wool,  ..... 
Bullion  and  dollars  received  in  payment  for  goods 

700,000 

sold  for  other  ports,  and  transported  to  Valparaiso 
for  United  States  and  Europe,  .... 

1,700,000 

Total,  ..... 

$6,200,000 

The  revenue  of  the  government  is  largest  from 

commerce. 

The  custom-house  receipts  are  fully 

$1,000,000 

Tobacco  and  wines,  monopolies  of  government, 

400,000 

Diezmos  or  tithes,  ...... 

600,000 

Alcavales  or  internal  sources  of  revenue, 

200,000 

Making  a  total  of  . 

$2,200,000 

The  ordinary  expenditure  is  about  $1,800,000. 


208 


CHILL 


The  number  of  foreign  vessels  employed  in  the  trade  is  about 
two  hundred  and  seventy,  the  same  vessels  arriving  generally  twice. 
They  are  of  the  following  nations  : 


English, . 

90 

American,  ...... 

80 

French,  ....... 

70 

Hamburg,  Dutch,  and  Sardinian, 

20 

Mexico,  Colombia,  and  Sandwich  Islands, 

10 

T.  otal,  .  .  .  .  « 

270 

The  population  of  Chili  may  be  estimated  at  one  million  two 
hundred  thousand. 

Santiago  contains  about  sixty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  one 
of  the  few  South  American  capitals,  perhaps  the  only  one,  that  is 
increasing  in  wealth  and  population.  It  has  various  private  semi¬ 
naries  for  both  sexes,  a  national  institute  or  college,  on  a  liberal 
footing,  an  extensive  hospital,  a  medical  college,  and  a  military 
academy.  The  Congress  meets  on  the  1st  of  June,  every  year,  when 
the  President  delivers  his  message. 

Valparaiso  numbers  thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  seaports  in  the  world.  Its  population  has  quintupled 
within  the  last  twenty  years,  and  it  is  rapidly  advancing  in  every 
improvement,  growing  out  of  an  increasing  foreign  commerce,  and 
the  enterprise  of  its  inhabitants,  fostered  and  enqouraged,  as  they  are, 
by  government. 

The  mining  districts  are  to  the  north,  and  the  grain  country  to  the 
south.  Extensive  flour  mills  are  now  at  work  in  Concepcion  and 
its  neighbourhood :  the  machinery  is  brought  from  the  United 
States. 

The  recognised  internal  national  debt  is  about  $2,000,000,  of  which 
sum  $800,000  is  consolidated,  bearing  an  annual  interest  of  from 
two  to  six  per  cent.  The  government  was  about  to  consolidate  the 
remainder,  when  their  attention  was  called  to  other  expenses  abroad. 
The  foreign  debt  is  a  loan  from  England,  taken  in  1822,  of 
£1,000,000,  with  the  interest  now  due,  will  not  fall  far  short  of 
$8,000,000. 

There  is  very  little  variation  in  the  climate.  During  what  is 
called  the  winter,  when  the  rains  prevail,  between  the  1st  of  May 
and  the  1st  of  September,  the  thermometer  occasionally  falls  for  a 


CHILL 


209 


few  hours  to  52°,  but  the  mean  of  it  throughout  the  year,  at  mid-day, 
would  be  65°.  During  the  dry  season,  from  September  to  May,  the 
thermometer  at  times  reaches  78°  to  80°.  In  the  evening  and  morn¬ 
ing,  it  is  at  60°. 

Fruits  are  abundant  in  their  season :  apples,  pears,  apricots,  nec¬ 
tarines,  plums,  peaches,  cherries,  &c. ;  figs,  grapes,  strawberries, 
oranges,  limes,  and  every  variety  of  vegetable. 

The  present  administration  is  composed  of — 

General  Joaquim  Prieto,  President :  term  of  office,  five  years ; 
eligible  for  a  second,  but  not  a  third  successive  term. 

Don  Joaquim  Torconal,  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations,  and  Acting 
Minister  of  the  Hacienda,  or  Treasury. 

Don  Ramen  Cavareda,  Minister  of  War  and  Marine. 

Don  Mariano  Egaho,  Minister  of  the  Interior  and  Justice. 

EXECUTIVE  COUNCIL. 

The  President  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Justice, 

The  President  of  the  High  Court  of  Appeals, 

The  Reverend  Bishop  of  Santiago,  and  Apostolic  Vicar, 

A  General  of  Division, 

The  Minister  of  the  Estanco,  or  Government  Monopolies, 

Two  Ex-Ministers, 

Two  Judges,  and 
A  Secretary  of  the  Council. 

THE  SENATE 

Consists  of  nineteen  members,  elected  for  five  years,  representing 
ten  provinces. 


THE  HOUSE  OF  DEPUTIES 

Consists  of  eighty-two  members,  elected  for  three  years,  represent¬ 
ing  thirty-five  departments. 

Foreigners  require  ten  years’  residence  to  obtain  citizenship,  if 
unmarried ;  six  years,  if  married ;  three  years,  if  married  to  Chi- 
lenos. 

According  to  present  calculation,  the  militia  force  of  the  republic 
reaches  forty-five  thousand :  forty  battalions  of  infantry,  eighty  squad¬ 
rons  of  cavalry,  and  eleven  companies  of  artillery. 

53 


V 


VOL.  I. 


210 


CHILL 


THE  ARMY, 

Agreeably  to  the  constitution,  in  time  of  peace  consists  of  three 
thousand  men  :  eight  companies  of  foot  and  horse-artillery,  two  regi¬ 
ments  of  cavalry,  and  three  battalions  of  infantry. 

OFFICERS. 

One  Major-General, 

Eight  Colonels, 

Twenty  Lieutenant-Colonels, 

Twenty-five  Majors, 

Thirty-four  Captains, 

Nine  Adjutants, 

Twenty-one  Lieutenants, 

Sixteen  Sub-Lieutenants, 

T  wo  Surgeons-in-chief. 

THE  NAVY 

Consists  of  the  Brig  Achilles,  twenty  guns;  Schooner  Colocolo, 
eight  guns. 

OFFICERS. 

One  Post-Captain, 

Two  Commanders, 

One  Lieutenant  of  Marines, 

Three  Pursers. 

The  late  war  with  Peru  has  increased  both  the  army  and  navy  to 
the  following,  in  round  numbers  :  eight  thousand  troops,  six  thousand 
of  whom  are  still  in  Peru,  but  about  to  return;  two  thousand  in  Chili, 
with  officers  complete,  all  under  the  command  of  General  Bulnes, 
nephew  of  the  President. 

The  navy,  increased  by  capture  and  purchase,  consists  of,  and  now 
in  service,  four  ships,  two  brigs,  two  schooners,  and  a  new  forty-four 
gun  frigate  expected  daily  from  France. 

During  the  time  of  our  visit,  June,  1839,  the  President,  in  his 
message,  resigned  the  extraordinary  powers  conferred  upon  him,  and 
recommended  a  reduction  of  the  army  to  a  peace  establishment. 
Since  that  time  he  has  been  succeeded  by  his  nephew,  General 


CHILI. 


211 


Bulnes,  who  from  all  accounts  retains  the  high  reputation  and.  popu¬ 
larity  he  gained  in  Peru. 

From  G.  G.  Hobson,  Esq.,  United  States  Consul  at  Valparaiso, 
and  our  countrymen  resident  there,  we  received  every  kindness  and 
assistance,  and  from  them  we  derived  much  information  respecting 
the  country.  To  the  former  I  feel  myself  under  many  obligations 
for  his  great  kindnesses  and  the  attention  he  gave  to  our  business, 
the  warm  interest  he  took  in  the  Expedition,  and  the  manner  in 
which  he  forwarded  our  views,  and  aided  in  procuring  the  necessary 
supplies.  To  him  I  feel  bound  to  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  for 
much  valuable  information ;  and  the  many  agreeable  hours  spent  in 
his  family  will  long  be  remembered.  He  not  only  stands  deservedly 
high  with  our  countrymen,  but  has  the  respect  and  high  considera¬ 
tion  of  the  Chilian  government.  An  American  cannot  but  feel  proud 
of  such  a  representative  abroad. 

Our  departure  from  Valparaiso  was  delayed  for  some  days,  owing 
to  the  non-arrival  of  the  Sea-Gull,  and  the  prevalence  of  north  winds 
and  calms,  together  with  fogs.  These  often  prevent  vessels  from 
sailing  in  the  winter  season. 

During  this  time,  one  morning  as  the  fogs  lifted,  a  brig  was  dis¬ 
covered  in  a  dangerous  situation  near  the  beach  of  Concon;  boats 
were  immediately  despatched  to  her  relief ;  she  proved  to  be  the 
English  brig  Superior;  the  master  was  found  dead  drunk  on  his 
cabin-floor !  She  was  towed  to  the  anchorage,  and  placed  in  safety. 

Lieutenant  Craven  was  left  at  Valparaiso  to  take  command  of  the 
Sea-Gull  when  she  should  arrive.  After  a  delay  there  of  some 
months,  he  joined  the  Pacific  Squadron,  and  was  transferred  to  the 
Schooner  Boxer,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Nicholson,  which  vessel 
made  strict  search  for  the  Sea-Gull  in  all  the  places  she  could  have 
possibly  met  with  disaster,  in  conformity  to  the  orders  of  Captain 
Clack,  then  in  command  of  the  Pacific  Squadron. 

I  cannot  resist  the  opportunity  when  speaking  of  Lieutenant 
Craven,  to  refer  to  his  praiseworthy  conduct  in  being  instrumental 
in  saving  the  crew  of  the  Chilian  vessel  of  war,  the  Monteguedo, 
that  came  near  being  lost.  By  his  exertions,  seconded  as  they  were 
by  the  officers  of  H.  B.  M.  ship  Fly,  they  were  rescued  from  a 
watery  grave.  It  gave  me  great  pleasure  some  time  afterwards  to 
receive  the  highly  complimentary  notice  of  it  by  the  Hon.  J.  K. 
Paulding,  then  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  which  will  be  found  included 
in  Appendix  XXXIV. 


212 


CHILI. 


On  the  17th  of  May,  the  United  States  ship  Falmonth,  Captain 
M’Keever,  arrived  from  Callao,  and  it  is  with  much  satisfaction  and 
pleasure  I  refer  to  my  meeting  and  acquaintance  with  this  officer, 
whose  liberal  views,  and  the  aid  rendered  the  Expedition,  were  of 
essential  service  in  forwarding  our  duties.  The  manner  in  which 
the  aid  was  given,  rendered  it  doubly  welcome. 

As  before  mentioned,  the  Flying-Fish  arrived  on  the  19th,  having 
left  Orange  Harbour  on  the  28th  of  April,  in  company  with  the 
Sea-Gull.  At  midnight,  the  Sea-Gull  was  last  seen.  Shortly  after¬ 
wards,  it  began  to  blow  in  strong  squalls,  and  rapidly  increased  to  a 
gale  ;  by  half-past  eight  of  the  29th,  it  was  “blowing  furiously.”  At 
one  o’clock,  False  Cape  Horn  was  made  under  the  lee,  when  Passed 
Midshipman  Knox  determined  to  run  for  a  harbour.  At  4  p.  m.  they 
anchored  under  the  south  point  of  Scapenham  Bay,  where  they 
dragged  their  anchors,  and  were  obliged  to  remove  to  Orange  Bay. 
There  they  anchored,  and  rode  out  the  remainder  of  the  gale,  which 
lasted  with  violence  until  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  May,  on  which 
day  they  again  took  their  departure,  and  shortly  afterwards  fell  in 
with  a  wffialer,  who  seemed  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  a  New  York 
pilot-boat  off  the  Cape,  and  to  have  an  interrogatory  put  to  him,  to 
know  if  he  wanted  a  Cape  pilot. 

Although  I  felt  some  uneasiness  about  the  Sea-Gull,  I  did  not 
apprehend  that  she  had  met  with  accident.  The  time  that  has  since 
elapsed,  and  the  careful  search  that  was  made,  leaves  no  doubt  of  her 
loss,  and  a  strong  belief  that  all  on  board  perished  in  that  gale. 
Nothing  since  that  time  has  been  heard  of  her.  How,  or  in  what 
wray,  disaster  happened  to  her,  it  is  impossible  to  conjecture.  I  had 
the  greatest  confidence  in  the  officers  who  had  charge  of  her ;  they 
were  both  wTell  acquainted  with  the  management  of  the  vessel.  Their 
loss,  and  that  of  the  vessel,  were  a  great  disadvantage  to  the  Expedi¬ 
tion,  which  was  felt  by  me  during  the  remainder  of  the  cruise,  these 
vessels  being  well  calculated  for  the  southern  seas,  particularly  in  the 
low  latitudes,  though  much  exposed  in  boisterous  weather. 

They  were  principally  intended  to  be  engaged  with  the  boats  in 
surveying  operations,  and  were  well  adapted  to  that  service. 

Messrs.  Reid  and  Bacon  were  among  the  most  promising  young 
officers  in  the  squadron,  and  I  was  extremely  well  satisfied  with  the 
performance  of  their  duty  in  the  vessel.  The  crew  consisted  of 
fifteen  persons. 

Passed  Midshipman  James  W.  E.  Reid  was  the  son  of  the  late 


CHILL 


213 


Governor  Reid  of  Florida.  He  was  a  native  of  Georgia,  and  entered 
the  service  in  September,  1831.  He  was  ordered  to  the  Exploring 
Expedition  in  1837,  and  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  Sea-Gull, 
one  of  the  tenders  attached  to  the  Expedition,  previous  to  sailing,  in 
August,  1838. 

Passed  Midshipman  Frederick  A.  Bacon,  entered  the  service  in 
May,  1832.  He  was  a  native  of  the  State  of  Connecticut,  where  his 
highly  respectable  relatives  reside.  He  joined  the  Expedition  in 
1838,  and  was  attached  to  the  Sea-Gull,  previous  to  leaving  the 
United  States. 

Both  of  these  young  officers  brought  with  them  into  the  Expedi¬ 
tion  a  high  character,  and,  during  the  short  period  which  they  were 
attached  to  it,  they  were  distinguished  for  their  devotedness  to  the 
arduous  service  in  which  we  were  engaged.  Their  deportment 
was  that  of  ardent  and  zealous  officers,  and  of  upright  and  correct 
gentlemen. 

Mr.  Bacon  left  a  widow  and  one  child. 

In  the  family  of  Mr.  Reid  there  has  been  a  remarkable  fatality 
during  our  absence.  His  respectable  father,  the  Governor  of  Florida, 
and  three  or  four  other  members  of  his  family,  have  since  died. 

During  our  stay  at  Valparaiso,  the  Chilian  army  was  daily  expected 
to  arrive  from  Peru,  and  all  were  rejoicing  over  its  success.  All  oppo¬ 
sition  to  the  existing  administration  had  died  away.  The  manner 
in  which  the  government  of  General  Prieto  had  carried  through  its 
plans,  both  of  war  and  peace,  had  met  with  the  approbation  of  all 
parties.  One  of  the  first  acts  of  the  government,  was  to  restore  to 
their  ranks,  Generals  Pinto,  Borgono,  and  others,  whose  conduct  had 
been  extremely  praiseworthy,  though  opposed  to  the  government  for 
the  last  eight  years.  They,  although  believing  themselves  ill  used 
by  it,  discouraged  all  attempts  at  revolution,  preferring  to  suffer 
themselves,  rather  than  be  instrumental  in  producing  changes. 
Attention  was  now  paid  to  the  building  of  custom-houses,  and  other 
public  works,  in  Valparaiso,  and  elsewhere.  The  whole  seemed  to 
have  given  a  fresh  impulse  to  every  thing  in  Chili.  Those  who  had 
been  at  all  doubtful  of  the  stability  of  the  government,  lost  their 
fears,  and  became  its  warmest  supporters,  while  happiness  and  joy 
seemed  to  reign  every  where. 

The  Congress  met  on  the  1st  of  June,  when  the  President  delivered 
his  annual  message,  resigning  the  extraordinary  powers  with  which 
he  had  been  clothed  in  January,  1837.  All  Chili  will  bear  tes- 

54 


VOL.  I. 


214 


CHILI. 


timony,  foreigners  as  well  as  native  born,  that  in  no  one  instance 
has  he  abused  them,  but  so  conducted  himself,  and  his  administration, 
as  to  entitle  him  to  the  thanks  and  rewards  of  a  grateful  country. 

Chili,  with  such  rulers,  and  so  moderate  and  energetic  a  govern¬ 
ment,  must  rise  rapidly  in  the  scale  of  nations. 


OX  CART. 


CHAPTER  XL 


CONTENTS. 

WANT  OF  CORRECT  HISTORICAL  RECORDS-O’HIGGINS  DECLARED  SUPREME  DICTATOR— 
RESIGNS  IN  1823— COUNCIL  OF  STATE  APPOINTED— GENERAL  FREYRE  LANDS  AT  VALPA¬ 
RAISO— ARREST  OF  O’HIGGINS  —  HIS  RELEASE  —  GENERAL  RAMON  FREYRE  ASSUMES 
THE  GOVERNMENT— RETIRES  TO  PRIVATE  LIFE— ADMIRAL  BLANCO  PRESIDENT— BLANCO 
RESIGNS— SUCCEEDED  BY  VICE-PRESIDENT— HIS  RESIGNATION— FREYRE  AGAIN  CHOSEN 
PRESIDENT— FREYRE  RESIGNS— PRIETO  BECOMES  PRESIDENT— RESIGNS— PRESIDENT  OF 
THE  SENATE  ACTS— ELECTION  HELD— PRIETO  ELECTED— REFUSES  TO  SERVE— VICUNEA 
PRESIDENT  OF  SENATE  —  TROUBLES  —  JUNTA  APPOINTED— CIVIL  WAR— ABANDONMENT 
OF  THE  CAPITAL— FREYRE  CALLED  IN— JOINS  THE  PRESIDENT’S  PARTY  — BATTLE  OF 
LIRCAI,  APRIL,  1830— DEFEAT  OF  FREYRE— HIS  BANISHMENT  TO  PERU— NEW  ELECTION- 
DON  FRANCISCO  TAGLE  RETURNED  AS  PRESIDENT— OVALLE  AS  VICE-PRESIDENT— BOTH 
RESIGN  — PRESIDENT  OF  SENATE  AGAIN  ACTS  — NEW  ELECTION  —  GENERAL  PRIETO 
ELECTED,  JULY,  1831— STATE  OF  THE  COUNTRY— HIS  ADMINISTRATION— DIEGO  PORTALES 
—SYSTEM  OF  REFORM— MILITIA  SYSTEM— ESTABLISHES  PUBLIC  CREDIT— CIVIL  RULE- 
TRANSACTIONS  WITH  PERU— RATIFICATION  OF  TREATY,  AND  RECEPTION  OF  MINISTER 
—CIVIL  WAR  IN  PERU  — DEFEAT  OF  SALAVERRY  — NEW  ORGANIZATION  OF  PERUVIAN 
GOVERNMENT  — RUPTURE  BETWEEN  CHILI  AND  PERU  — SECRET  EXPEDITION  UNDER 
GENERAL  FREYRE— INTELLIGENCE  OF  IT  RECEIVED  IN  CHILI— ACTIVITY  OF  GOVERN¬ 
MENT-CAPTURE  OF  FREYRE  — HIS  SECOND  BANISHMENT  —  POPULARITY  OF  THE 
ADMINISTRATION  —  SEIZURE  OF  PERUVIAN  VESSELS  —  SUSPENSION  OF  HOSTILITIES  — 
CONVENTION— CHILI  REFUSES  TO  RATIFY  THE  PROCEEDINGS— CHILI  SENDS  HER  FLEET 
—CHILI  DECLARES  WAR  —  EXPEDITION  ORGANIZED— DECREE  OF  PRESIDENT  PRIETO— 
EXPEDITION  FITTED  OUT  UNDER  ADMIRAL  BLANCO— TROOPS  QUARTERED  AT  QUILLOTA 
—PORTALES’  INSPECTION  OF  TROOPS  — HIS  ARREST  —  VIDAURRE’S  MUTINY— ACTA  OF 
OFFICERS  — NEWS  REACHES  VALPARAISO  —  CONSTERNATION  —  CONDUCT  OF  MILITIA— 
VIDAURRE’S  DEMANDS— PORTALES’  NOBLE  CONDUCT— VIDAURRE’S  ATTACK  ON  VALPA¬ 
RAISO— HIS  DEFEAT  AND  FLIGHT  —  PORTALES’  DEATH  —  VIDAURRE  CAPTURED  AND 
BROUGHT  TO  VALPARAISO-TRIAL  AND  EXECUTION— EXPEDITION  SAILS  TO  PERU— ITS 
FAILURE— TREATY  OF  PAUCARPATA— EXPEDITION  RETURNS— BLANCO  DEPRIVED  OF  HIS 
COMMAND— BULNES— NEW  EXPEDITION— ITS  DEPARTURE. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILT. 

1  8  39. 

Of  the  early  political  history  of  Chili,  we  found  it  difficult  to 
obtain  any  correct  information.  There  is  no  publication  existing  at 
this  date,  which  furnishes  any  satisfactory  account  of  the  republic  in 
its  first  struggles  to  establish  itself. 

Nearly  all  the  principal  actors  in  its  busy  scenes  are  yet  living, 
and  not  so  old  but  they  entertain  hopes  of  a  change  from  day  to  day 
that  may  restore  them  to  power  and  importance.  These,  together 
with  the  factions  that  were  connected  with  them,  watch  with  anxiety 
every  turn  of  public  opinion,  and  with  one  or  the  other  of  them,  most 
of  the  educated  Chilians,  who  alone  are  capable  of  giving  an  account, 
are  more  or  less  identified. 

For  this  reason  only  partial  statements  can  be  obtained  from  any  of 
them.  Those  who  keep  aloof  from  party,  are  too  timid  to  express 
any  opinion  on  political  subjects,  as  it  might  involve  them  in 
difficulty.  The  few  foreigners  whose  long  residence  in  the  country 
would  enable  them  to  furnish  facts,  so  distort  them  by  their  preju¬ 
dices  towards  different  administrations,  that  no  dependence  can  be 
placed  upon  their  statements.  The  inequality  of  rule  of  the  Chilian 
administrations  makes  it  difficult  to  follow  their  history,  and  one  is 
left  to  the  barren  sources  of  information  afforded  by  government 
proclamations,  and  the  official  reports  of  the  day,  always  more  or  less 
erroneous  and  exaggerated,  in  favour  of  the  ruling  party. 

After  the  battle  of  Chacabuco  and  Maypo,  in  which  O’Higgins 
commanded,  he  was  unanimously  proclaimed  Supreme  Director  of 
Chili,  in  April,  1817.  He  continued  to  fill  the  situation  until  1823, 
when,  in  consequence  of  his  allowing  great  abuses  to  exist  in  the 

5  5 


VOL.  X. 


218 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILL 


subordinate  branches  of  government,  and  not  listening  to  the 
respectful  remonstrances  sent  him  from  all  quarters  of  the  country, 
a  meeting  of  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  capital  and  neighbour¬ 
hood  took  place  at  the  town  hall. 

The  subject  was  discussed  freely,  and  his  deposition  was  deter¬ 
mined  upon.  It  was  agreed,  however,  to  notify  him,  for  few  men 
were  more  esteemed  than  O’ Higgins.  He  received  the  commission 
courteously,  and  when  satisfied  that  they  really  expressed  the  voice 
of  the  people,  he  without  hesitation  resigned  his  power,  and  departed 
for  Valparaiso,  with  the  intention  of  proceeding  to  Peru.  A  council 
of  state  was  named  by  the  assembly  at  Santiago,  composed  of  three 
distinguished  citizens,  until  the  supreme  power  could  be  disposed  of. 

When  O’ Higgins  arrived  in  Valparaiso,  General  .Ramon  Freyre 
landed  from  Concepcion  with  three  hundred  men,  having  come  up 
from  the  south  to  depose  O’Higgins. 

Although  the  latter  was  no  longer  in  his  way,  he  arrested  him  on 
the  plea  of  making  him  give  an  account  of  his  administration.  This 
step  was  not  popular.  The  Junta  in  Santiago  directed  his  release, 
and  ordered  Freyre  to  furnish  him  with  the  necessary  passport. 
This  was  done  in  the  most  complimentary  style,  and  this  distin¬ 
guished  individual,  admitted  by  all  to  be  the  first  soldier  of  his 
country,  left  it  for  Peru  without  complaint.  There  honours  were 
showered  upon  him  as  testimonials  of  his  worth,  and  what  was  far 
better,  the  Peruvian  government  gave  him  a  hacienda. 

He  still  lives  in  Lima,  respected  by  every  one,  not  having  engaged 
in  politics  since  his  retirement  from  Chili.  He  has  been  invited 
back,  but  refuses  to  come.  He  was  succeeded  by  Ramon  Freyre, 
considered  as  the  champion  of  liberal  institutions,  who  was  named 
Supreme  Director  and  Captain-General,  31st  March,  1823.  He 
resigned  in  July,  1826,  retiring  to  private  life,  after  a  popular  rule. 
His  opposition  to  O’ Higgins  is  justified  by  its  being  said  that  he  was 
left  to  perish  from  want  of  supplies  to  his  troops  on  the  frontier. 
Though  he  had  been  constant  in  his  representations  of  the  fact  to 
O’Higgins,  he  had  been  neglected,  and  was  compelled  to  appear 
himself  and  claim  attention.  There  is  believed  to  be  much  truth  in 
this — O’ Higgins  having  many  corrupt  creatures  about  him,  who  are 
said  to  have  been  the  cause  of  it.  Freyre  is  much  respected,  though 
not  considered  a  man  of  talent.  He  never  mixed  in  public  life  after 
the  resignation  of  his  dictatorship,  unless  called  upon  as  a  mediator. 

Admiral  Blanco  was  next  named  President  by  the  Congress  then 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILL 


219 


in  session,  and  Don  Augustin  Azyguine  Vice-President.  Blanco 
was  one  of  the  vainest  of  men.  Fortunately  for  the  country,  he  was 
so  much  mortified  at  the  opposition  shown  to  some  of  his  fancies, 
that  he  resigned,  two  months  and  three  days  after  his  appointment. 
The  Vice-President  succeeded  him.  Such  dissensions,  however, 
prevailed,  that  he  also  became  disgusted  and  resigned.  Pinto  was 
charged  with  the  presidency,  which  he  exercised  from  the  5th  of 
May,  1827,  till  14th  July,  1829,  when,  on  the  plea  of  ill  health,  he 
resigned  and  went  to  his  estate. 

In  conformity  with  a  law  of  1826,  the  President  of  the  Senate  acted 
as  president  until  the  middle  of  October,  when  the  elections  took 
place,  and  General  Pinto  was  returned  to  the  office.  During  his 
acting  presidency  two  military  revolts  had  occurred,  and  the  country 
was  full  of  factions.  As  the  elections  to  Congress  were  considered  to 
have  been  illegally  conducted,  the  general  opposition  to  its  measures 
was  ascribed  to  that  cause.  Pinto,  therefore,  on  being  elected,  in¬ 
formed  them,  that  he  would  only  accept  on  condition  that  the  Congress 
should  be  dissolved,  and  that  new  elections,  according  to  the  consti¬ 
tution,  should  take  place.  They  did  not  concur  in  this,  when  he 
declined  occupying  the  office,  and  it  went  begging  again.  Vicunea, 
President  of  the  Senate,  entered  upon  the  duties  of  President;  the 
clamours  throughout  the  country  increased ;  the  whole  population 
was  in  movement,  a  party  behind  pushing  it  on.  Town  meetings 
were  held  and  representatives  sent  to  Santiago. 

The  government  refused  to  receive  their  committee,  and  on  this 
being  told  to  the  meeting,  a  junta  gobernativa  was  appointed,  and  the 
country  was  pronounced  to  be  against  the  Congress,  as  an  unconsti¬ 
tutional  body  Collecting  a  great  number  of  all  classes,  they  again 
went  to  the  President’s  house,  and  found  he  had  set  out  in  the  night, 
with  all  his  ministers,  for  Valparaiso.  The  greatest  confusion  pre¬ 
vailed  in  the  capital ;  orders  were  received  at  the  public  offices  from 
the  Junta  and  from  the  acting  President,  both  claiming  to  be  repre¬ 
sentatives  of  the  people.  In  the  mean  time  the  southern  army,  under 
General  Prieto,  approached  the  city.  It  had  declared  for  the  Junta. 
The  troops  in  the  city,  under  General  Lastra,  considered  themselves 
subject  to  the  order  of  the  President  for  the  time.  The  armies  met 
on  the  field  of  Ochagavia,  and  the  first  blood  in  civil  war  was  shed. 
Both  parties  claimed  the  victory  after  a  sharp  contest.  A  convention 
was,  however,  entered  into,  and  Freyre  was  again  called  forward  to 
aid  in  restoring  tranquillity  to  the  country.  Nothing  satisfactory 


220 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILL 


grew  out  of  this  arrangement.  Freyre  became  disgusted  at  some 
non-compliance  with  his  orders  as  captain-general,  but  instead  of 
returning  to  his  family,  ill-advisedly  started  off  to  join  the  party  of 
the  President  in  Valparaiso,  setting  himself  in  opposition  to  the  Junta, 
and  calling  upon  all  the  officers  to  join  him.  Unfortunately,  some  of 
the  foreign  officers  did  so.  He  embarked  from  Coquimbo  with  troops, 
and  thence  proceeded  to  the  south,  landed,  and  was  met  at  Lircai  by 
General  Prieto’s  army,  on  the  17th  April,  1830,  when  Freyre  was 
entirely  defeated.  This  offence  resulted  in  his  banishment.  Most  of 
the  foreign  officers  were  killed ;  it  is  said  after  they  had  surrendered. 

The  elections  now  went  forward ;  Don  Francesco  Tagle  was 
returned  President,  and  Don  Tomas  O valle  as  Vice-President :  both 
extensive  land  proprietors  and  respectable  men.  The  first  soon 
resigned,  and  0  valle  exercised  the  honour  but  a  short  time,  dying 
soon  after  succeeding.  The  President  of  the  Senate  acted  until 
elections  were  again  held,  when  General  Prieto  was  returned  Presi¬ 
dent,  July  14th,  1831,  and  continued  to  hold  the  office  at  the  time  of 
our  visit. 

It  appears  throughout  the  history  of  the  different  administrations 
which  have  ruled  the  country  since  its  separation  from  Spain,  that 
all  have  been  directed  by  a  common  spirit  of  advancement  to  the 
country.  All  their  decrees  prove  this,  and  under  any  one  of  them, 
had  they  retained  power  but  a  few  successive  years,  it  would  have 
prospered.  As  the  people  of  Chili  (that  is  to  say,  the  mass  of  the 
population,)  are  proverbial  for  their  apathy,  and  disposed  to  submit  to 
authority  without  questioning  its  origin,  the  main  error  of  the  early 
administrations  was  their  extensive  lenity  towards  political  offenders, 
whose  turbulent  spirit  and  restless  ambition  no  clemency  checked. 
The  impunity  with  which  such  disorganizers  returned  to  their 
intrigues  after  repeated  pardons,  and  the  too  liberal,  or,  more  properly 
speaking,  visionary  schemes  of  government,  no  doubt  operated  to 
produce  the  sudden  and  frequent  changes  of  government,  before  any 
one  of  them  had  time  to  mature  plans  of  improvement  or  organize  a 
system  of  legislation,  or  a  mode  for  the  proper  administration  of  laws. 
A  want  of  energy  and  resolution  of  purpose  encouraged  factions  to 
hope  for  success  in  their  attempts  to  gain  the  ascendency.  Imaginary 
abuses  were  charged  home  against  each  successive  ruler,  and  the 
country  was  a  prey  to  convulsions.  This  state  of  affairs  prevailed 
in  a  greater  or  less  degree  till  1831,  when  the  present  administra¬ 
tion  came  into  power.  Its  course  was  totally  different  from  its 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CIIILI.  221 

predecessors.  It  adopted  at  once  the  most  energetic  measures  to 
establish  order ;  introduced  a  necessary  severity,  which  produced  a 
hue  and  cry  against  it,  in  the  country.  But  it  was  not  diverted  from 
its  purpose.  It  went  on  reforming  abuses,  nipping  revolution  in  its 
bud,  and  banishing  the  most  refractory;  by  a  salutary  terror  awed 
the  many  factions,  and  pursued  vigorously  its  career  of  improvement 
in  every  branch  of  government.  No  one  felt  disposed  to  give  it 
credit.  All  its  acts  were  ascribed  to  one  or  other  of  the  former 
parties.  Every  one  spoke  of  them  as  being  proposed,  projected,  or 
introduced  by  O’Higgins,  Freyre,  or  Pinto,  forgetting  that  their 
good  intentions  were  never  carried  out,  and  that  it  was  the  abuses 
permitted  by  them  that  led  to  civil  war.  The  present  administration 
proved  itself  fit  to  rule.  It  wielded  its  power  energetically  but 
beneficially.  Its  vigilance  never  slept ;  and  the  parties  which  occa¬ 
sionally  showed  symptoms  of  movement,  have  at  last  made  up  their 
minds  to  come  into  the  fold  of  good  citizens. 

The  actual  president  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  was  General  Joaquim 
Prieto,  a  man  of  unblemished  private  character,  full  of  benevolence, 
but  who,  no  doubt,  had  he  been  left  to  the  direction  of  his  own  feel¬ 
ings  and  judgment,  at  several  periods  of  his  official  career,  would  by 
his  mistaken  lenity,  have  brought  upon  his  government  the  fate  of  all 
the  preceding  ones.  F ortunately  for  the  lovers  of  order,  he  had  for 
several  years  to  aid  him,  as  minister  of  war  and  the  interior,  Diego 
Portales,  one  of  those  master  spirits  a  country  but  rarely  produces ; 
a  man  whose  early  life  was  engaged  in  commerce,  but  who  in  the 
progress  of  revolutions,  evincing  more  than  ordinary  utility,  became 
a  prominent  politician,  and  eventually  one  of  the  leading  men  of  the 
country.  F rom  his  resolute  and  unbending  temper,  he  was  permitted 
to  become  the  head  of  a  party,  and  soon  gained  such  an  ascendency, 
that  they  abandoned  themselves  to  his  guidance.  He  might  have 
obtained  the  presidency,  had  ordinary  ambition  directed  him,  but, 
impelled  by  a  more  noble  one,  he  chose  to  attach  himself  to  the  ad¬ 
ministration  as  one  of  its  ministers,  in  order,  as  subsequent  events 
proved,  that  he  might  be  better  able  to  carry  out  the  plans  he  medi¬ 
tated.  He  possessed  a  resolution  in  his  political  career  which  never 
swerved  from  what  he  conceived  his  duty,  or  what  he  thought  the 
interests  of  his  country  required.  Pie  had  the  unyielding  temper  of 
a  reformer;  and  never  was  one  more  wanted  in  any  country.  He 
recommended  the  establishment  of  a  militia  system,  with  a  view  to 
check  every  future  military  interference  in  the  government;  and 

56 


VOL.  I. 


222 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILI. 


when  it  was  opposed  on  the  ground  that  it  would  only  endanger  the 
peace  of  the  country  to  place  arms  in  the  hands  of  the  people,  he 
answered,  “  No  !  depend  upon  it  the  only  way  to  secure  permanent 
order,  is  to  create  a  power  in  the  people  which  may  be  enlisted  on 
their  side,  and  if  this  should  declare  against  the  government,  it  would 
be  evidence  enough  that  it  ought  no  longer  to  rule,  for  such  a  power 
should  consist  of  the  best  portion  of  the  population  of  the  country. 
The  first  object  must  be  to  counteract  military  influence ;  for  it  too 
frequently  happens  amongst  us,  that  when  we  make  a  colonel,  and 
give  him  a  regiment,  his  aspirations  soon  extend  to  supreme  com¬ 
mand.” 

His  counsel  was  listened  to :  a  militia  system  was  organized ;  the 
army  was  reduced ;  numerous  generals  and  other  officers  were  struck 
off  the  list ;  the  number  of  civil  officers  in  the  various  departments 
was  diminished,  salaries  cut  down,  and  the  most  rigid  economy 
observed  in  every  branch  of  the  government.  Setting  an  example  of 
unwearied  industry  in  the  discharge  of  his  duties,  he  exacted  from 
those  under  him  a  strict  performance  of  theirs.  He  corrected  abuses 
which  had  the  countenance  of  time  for  their  practice ;  he  aroused  his 
countrymen  from  their  indolence;  corruption  ceased,  persons  were 
selected  to  fill  office  from  their  fitness,  and  not  as  formerly,  from 
family  influence.  His  militia  system  worked  admirably;  it  produced 
a  feeling  of  order  among  a  population  notoriously  irregular  in  their 
private  habits  and  domestic  economy ;  it  became  a  national  guard, 
exercising  a  certain  kind  of  police  over  the  whole  land.  Indeed,  all 
his  energies  were  called  into  play,  to  improve  and  advance  his  coun¬ 
try  ;  roads  were  planned  to  open  communications  to  the  coast,  from 
sections  abounding  in  agricultural  wealth,  but  remote  from  the  sea¬ 
board.  He  set  about  raising  the  public  credit  by  husbanding  the 
revenue,  so  as  to  enable  it,  after  consolidating  domestic  and  foreign 
debt,  to  appropriate  a  certain  amount,  first  towards  the  periodical 
payments  on  account  of  interest,  and  then  to  effect  an  arrangement 
with  the  English  bond-holders.  For  the  latter  purpose,  an  agent  was 
named  to  proceed  to  England.  To  accomplish  such  radical  changes 
great  perseverance  and  firmness  were  requisite,  and  these  qualities 
eminently  characterized  P  or  tales.  It  is  surprising  how  well  he 
adapted  his  march  to  the  actual  state  of  the  country,  and  its  preju¬ 
dices  of  education.  He  supported  the  clergy  to  obtain  their  instru¬ 
mentality  as  a  moral  power  to  strengthen  the  government,  knowing 
that  otherwise  they  would,  as  they  frequently  had,  become  its  most 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  C  LI  ILL 


223 


formidable  opponents.  All  this  created  much  discontent  among  many 
speculative  politicians,  who  fancied  they  could  establish  a  refined 
system  of  government  over  an  uneducated  and  prejudiced  mass  of 
men  like  the  Chilians ;  a  population  that  had  but  a  few  years  emerged 
from  a  political  state  little  different  from  that  of  Europe  in  the  middle 
ages,  whose  predilections  were  deeply  rooted,  whose  habits  only 
change  by  an  increasing  intercourse  with  nations  more  enlightened 
than  themselves,  and  who  gradually  and  almost  imperceptibly  yield 
to  such  an  influence. 

This  government  came  into  power  after  military  rule  had  been 
in  possession  of  authority  almost  ever  since  the  nation  became 
independent.  It  had  been  the  custom  to  consult  military  men  on 
every  change  of  government ;  the  rivalry  of  generals  consequently 
kept  up  a  constant  revolutionary  propensity.  A  government,  to 
establish  civil  rule  supreme  in  the  land,  and  in  order  to  have  its  laws 
obeyed,  would  be  obliged  to  exercise  more  severity  with  it  than 
pre-existing  circumstances  had  called  for.  Portales  incurred  the  sole 
odium  of  this  severity.  His  activity  and  energy  were  ever  present 
and  before  the  public.  He  had  a  difficult  task  to  perform  in  recon¬ 
ciling  jarring  interests,  and  pushing  out  this  system  of  reform, 
but  he  did  it  fearlessly.  No  selfish  feeling  seemed  to  actuate  him. 
His  enemies  admit  that  his  disinterestedness  was  extraordinary,  and 
that  neither  himself  nor  his  family  were  benefited  by  his  public 
employment.  The  remains  of  that  unquiet  military  spirit,  the 
growth  of  revolution,  would  occasionally  show  itself,  but  the 
government  instantly  crushed  it,  and  sent  the  offenders  out  of  the 
country.  A  good  understanding  was  sought  with  foreign  powers. 
A  treaty  was  effected  with  Mexico,  and  one  with  the  United  States; 
and  a  mission  to  accomplish  one  with  Peru,  sent  up  by  President 
Orbejoso,  was  met  with  confidence.  Unfortunately,  when  the  ratifi¬ 
cation  of  the  latter  was  about  being  exchanged,  a  military  revolt  broke 
out  in  Peru,  headed  by  a  Colonel  Salaverry,  which  succeeded  in 
driving  the  legal  government  from  Lima,  and  established  one  there 
of  which  Salaverry  declared  himself  supreme  chief. 

The  Chilian  government,  too  anxious  to  complete  the  treaty,  which 
was  advantageous  to  the  two  countries,  sent  it  to  Peru,  and  exchanged 
ratifications  with  Salaverry,  who  was  at  the  time  acknowledged  to  be 
the  de  facto  ruler,  as  far  as  decrees  and  possession  of  the  capital 
went.  In  this  view  of  the  case,  Chili  had  an  undoubted  right  to 
conclude  the  treaty,  and  to  expect  that  it  would  be  observed.  The 


224 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILI. 


ratification  of  the  treaty  by  Salaverry  was  followed  by  his  sending  a 
minister  to  Chili,  although  the  ambassador  of  the  former  government 
(Orbejoso’s)  was  still  there.  This  was  the  germ  from  which  grew 
the  misunderstanding  that  occurred  on  the  restoration  of  Orbejoso’s 
government,  which  was  effected  through  the  intervention  of  the  Pre¬ 
sident  of  Bolivia,  General  Santa  Cruz,  who  had  been  called  upon  by 
Orbejoso  for  assistance.  This  resulted  in  the  defeat  of  Salaverry,  the 
establishment  of  the  Peru-Bolivian  Confederation,  and  the  naming  of 
Santa  Cruz  as  Supreme  Protector,  for  life,  by  assemblies  convoked  by 
him,  and  the  appointment  of  Orbejoso  as  President  of  North  Peru. 

While  these  matters,  however,  were  in  progress,  Orbejoso,  who  had 
returned  to  Lima  after  the  battle  of  Socabaya,  immediately  on  his 
arrival  annulled  the  treaty  with  Chili,  with  no  other  notice  to  the 
latter  government  than  the  public  decree,  by  which  she  was  informed, 
that  four  months  were  allowed  her  to  renew  it,  or  not,  otherwise  it 
would  be  of  no  effect. 

Chili  took  umbrage  at  this  abrupt  mode  of  proceeding,  and  allowed 
the  time  to  pass,  when  both  governments  restored  the  former  retalia¬ 
tory  duties  on  their  respective  products. 

Santa  Cruz  framed  a  new  commercial  code  for  Peru,  and  among 
its  articles  was  one  imposing  double  duties  on  all  vessels  touching  at 
any  Chilian  port,  before  going  to  Peru.  This  measure  was  odious 
to  Chili,  and  was  considered  as  evincing  unfriendly  feelings.  Whilst 
Chili  was  in  the  full  tide  of  prosperity,  and  attending  to  her  own 
internal  regulations,  the  administration,  satisfied  that  all  was  quiet  at 
home,  appears  to  have  been  utterly  regardless  of  the  course  things 
were  taking  in  Peru.  President  Prieto  at  this  time  was  re-elected 
for  a  second  term,  upon  which  General  Ramon  Frejwe,  the  former 
director  of  Chili,  but  for  some  years  banished  the  country,  and  living 
in  Peru,  set  out  with  a  few  other  exiled  Chilian  officers,  on  a 
revolutionary  adventure  to  Chili.  Embarking  in  two  Peruvian 
government  vessels,  hired  from  Orbejoso  ostensibly  for  a  trading 
voyage  to  Central  America,  he  had  really  the  intention  of  proceeding 
to  the  south  of  Chili,  and  making  a  descent  upon  the  coast.  He 
entertained  the  expectation  of  being  joined  by  the  old  military  and 
other  dissatisfied  persons,  and  was  in  hopes  of  finally  establishing 
himself  again  in  power.  Some  few  days  subsequent  to  Freyre’s  depar¬ 
ture  from  Lima,  the  Chilian  consul-general  hearing  of  it,  despatched 
a  fast-sailing  vessel  to  apprise  his  government.  The  vessel  had  a 
very  short  passage,  and  the  intelligence  took  the  government  entirely 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILL 


225 


by  surprise.  They  were  wholly  unprepared  for  an  attack  from  any 
quarter.  Their  only  armed  vessel  was  a  small  schooner,  and  this 
was  employed  at  the  time  to  bring  the  electoral  returns  from  Chiloe. 
The  intelligence,  however,  caused  government  no  alarm.  With  a 
promptitude  characteristic  of  Portales’  system,  which  was  now  fairly 
established,  a  dismantled  brig-of-war  was  rigged,  a  crew  shipped,  and 
made  ready  for  sea  in  four  days.  Gun-boats  were  armed,  and  every 
precaution  taken  to  guard  against  surprise.  At  the  same  time 
government  received  tenders  of  service  from  people  of  property  and 
influence,  throughout  the  whole  republic,  and  few  felt  any  doubts 
that  the  result  of  the  affair  would  be  in  favour  of  the  government. 

Soon  after,  the  largest  of  Frey  re’s  vessels,  with  some  of  his  best 
officers  on  board,  was  brought  in  by  her  crew,  and  delivered  up.  It 
was  ascertained  that  the  rendezvous  was  to  be  Chiloe.  No  time  was 
lost  in  sending  off  the  prize,  with  a  good  equipment,  to  decoy  Freyre, 
if  possible.  He  was  found  in  possession  of  Chiloe.  The  stratagem 
was  successful,  and  they  returned  with  him  prisoner,  and  the  other 
vessels  as  prizes.  Thus  ended,  in  the  short  space  of  two  months,  an 
expedition  headed  by  one  who  had  been  the  most  popular  ruler  Chili 
ever  had.  Though  possessing  still  many  friends  in  the  country,  he 
found  himself  a  prisoner  and  not  a  voice  raised  to  his  rescue.  His  life 
was  considered  forfeited,  as  he  had  been  banished  by  the  present  gov¬ 
ernment,  and  had  come  to  introduce  anew  all  the  horrors  of  civil  war 
into  a  peaceful  country.  The  recollection  of  his  distinguished  ser¬ 
vices  to  the  nation  in  times  past,  his  having  with  honour  to  himself 
and  credit  to  his  country  filled  its  highest  office,  and  no  doubt  some 
sympathy  for  his  changed  situation,  obtained  for  him  the  clemency  of 
the  government.  He  and  his  adherents  were  again  banished,  and  no 
person  connected  with  him  otherwise  punished.  He  was  also  per¬ 
mitted  to  see  his  family  frequently  during  his  confinement. 

The  result  of  this  attempt  had  the  effect  of  strengthening  the 
administration.  People  of  property  and  respectability,  even  of  oppo¬ 
site  parties,  rallied  around  it :  a  satisfactory  proof  that  there  was  a 
love  of  order  rising,  and  that  the  supremacy  of  civil  rule  would  no 
longer  submit  to  changes  effected  by  arms. 

In  the  meanwhile,  circumstances  seemed  to  justify  the  belief  of 
the  connivance  of  the  Peruvian  government  in  Freyre’s  plan. 
It  had  been  notified  by  the  Chili  consul-general,  a  few  hours  after 
the  vessels  sailed,  of  the  true  objects  of  the  voyage,  and  there  was  still 
time  to  prevent  their  success.  They  shuffled  out  of  the  affair,  and 

5? 


VOL.  X. 


226 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILI. 


on  learning  that  the  consul-general  was  despatching  a  vessel  to 
inform  his  government,  they  put  an  embargo  on  the  port  of  Callao. 
The  vessel,  however,  had  sailed  before  the  order  reached  the  port ; 
on  understanding  which  the  embargo  was  immediately  raised. 

This  was  publicly  commented  on  at  the  time  by  foreigners  in  the 
place,  and  afforded  conclusive  evidence  that  the  Peruvian  government 
was  concerned  in  the  plot.  The  Chilian  vessels  of  war,  Achilles  and 
Colocolo,  the  only  ones  possessed  by  the  government,  were  despatched 
suddenly  on  secret  service.  A  confidential  agent  accompanied  them. 
They  went  to  Callao,  and  seized  upon  three  Peruvian  vessels  of  war 
lying  in  the  harbour,  to  take  away  the  only  means  of  offence  in  the 
power  of  a  government  which  had  proved  itself  so  unfriendly.  This 
being  done,  the  vessels  were  taken  over  to  the  island  of  San  Lorenzo, 
and  anchored  under  the  guns  of  the  Chilian  vessels.  The  Chilian  civil 
agent  demanded  explanations  respecting  Freyre’s  expedition.  Before 
these  were  given  great  excitement  prevailed  on  shore,  at  what  was 
conceived  to  be  an  outrage  against  civilized  nations ;  for  it  was  said 
that  the  Chilian  vessels  had  entered  under  the  guise  of  friendship, 
and  while  partaking  of  the  hospitality  of  a  nation  at  peace  with  their 
own,  had  basely  taken  advantage  of  it  to  insult  the  country.  The 
Chilian  consul-general,  when  the  news  first  reached  Lima,  was 
subjected  to  a  short  arrest.  Finally,  matters  settled  down,  and  the 
parties  agreed  to  discuss  the  subjects  of  complaint  on  board  the 
English  sloop-of-war  Talbot.  Santa  Cruz  sent  one  of  his  principal 
officers,  and  a  convention  was  agreed  upon  for  the  suspension  of 
hostilities  on  both  sides  for  the  term  of  four  months.  The  Peruvian 
vessels  were  to  remain  in  possession  of  the  Chilians,  and  no  warlike 
preparations  during  the  time  were  to  be  made  by  either  party.  Santa 
Cruz  disavowed  any  participation  in  Freyre’s  plans,  and  expressed 
his  willingness  to  pay  Chili  her  loss  in  putting  the  invasion  down. 
He  also  bound  himself  to  the  performance  of  his  part  of  the  conven¬ 
tion,  leaving  the  Chilian  agent  subject  to  the  approbation  of  his 
government,  and  assured  him  of  his  earnest  desire  for  a  good  under¬ 
standing  with  Chili. 

The  vessels  returned  to  Chili,  a  diplomatic  agent  of  Santa  Cruz 
accompanying  them.  The  Chilian  government  refused  to  ratify  the 
convention,  as  soon  as  it  was  informed  of  it,  and  proceeded  in  the 
most  active  preparations  for  fitting  out  all  the  captured  Peruvian 
vessels.  At  this  time  it  might  have  dictated  any  terms  to  Santa 
Cruz,  who  was  anxious  to  secure  his  newly  acquired  power.  Chili, 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILL 


227 


however,  had  no  confidence  in  him,  and  prepared  for  the  coming- 
struggle.  Santa  Cruz’s  minister  returned  to  Peru.  He  was  followed 
by  the  Chilian  fleet,  having  a  high  diplomatic  agent  on  board,  with 
the  government  sine  qua  non ,  viz.,  the  abandonment  of  the  Con¬ 
federation,  and  the  restoration  of  the  independent  sovereignties  of 
Peru  and  Bolivia.  Santa  Cruz  refused  to  receive  a  minister  attended 
by  an  armed  force,  which  had  the  appearance  of  a  menace.  In  vain 
did  the  Chilian  minister  offer  to  send  them  away,  and  remain  in  the 
smallest  vessel  of  the  squadron,  saying  the  latter  was  merely  to  guard 
against  a  repetition  of  Freyre’s  expedition.  Nothing  was  done.  The 
Chilian  minister  returned  home,  and  Chili  then  declared  war  against 
the  Confederation,  on  the  12th  of  December,  1836.  Freyre’s  attempt 
was  crushed  in  August,  1836. 

Chili  became  sensible  too  late,  of  her  error  in  not  protesting  at 
first  against  the  armed  interference  of  Santa  Cruz  in  the  affairs  of 
Peru,  by  not  doing  which  she  tacitly  assented,  and  thus  encouraged 
him.  But,  occupied  with  her  internal  concerns,  she  heeded  little 
what  was  passing  around  her,  and  had  not  Freyre’s  expedition  been 
fitted  out  in  Peru,  Santa  Cruz’s  plans  of  government  would  have 
been  unmolested.  She  felt  too  late  that  no  confidence  could  be  placed 
in  her  new  neighbours.  Bent,  therefore,  on  his  downfall,  an  expedi¬ 
tion  against  him  was  planned,  composed  of  naval  and  land  forces,  and 
numerous  banished  Peruvians  living  in  Chili  were  permitted  to 
join,  who  formed  themselves  into  a  separate  body,  under  General  La 
Fuente,  a  distinguished  Peruvian  revolutionist.  The  first  ill  effects 
of  a  revival  of  a  military  spirit  in  Chili  were  now  experienced.  As 
before  mentioned,  one  of  the  reforms  of  the  government  was  the 
reduction  of  the  army  to  a  number  barely  sufficient  to  protect  the 
southern  frontier  against  the  Indians.  To  create  a  force,  therefore, 
it  became  necessary  to  raise  recruits  in  every  direction.  Congress 
being  in  session,  granted  extraordinary  powers  to  the  President,  a 
very  necessary  step  to  give  effect  to  executive  decrees. 

The  following  is  a  translation  of  a  decree  of  the  President,  issued 
by  Portales,  as  Minister  of  the  Interior,  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  war : 


Department  of  the  Interior. 

In  consequence  of  the  power  that  the  43d  and  82d  articles  of  the 
Constitution  have  conferred  upon  me,  I  have  well  considered  and 
approved  the  following  resolution  of  the  National  Congress. 

1  st.  He  who  has  been  condemned  to  remain  in  a  particular  part  of 


228 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILI. 


the  Republic,  or  exiled  from  it  by  the  judicial  sentence,  and  for  the 
crime  of  sedition,  conspiracy,  and  riot,  will  suffer  death  if  he  breaks 
his  confinement  or  exile. 

2d.  In  whatever  part  of  the  Republic  any  one  of  the  criminals 
included  in  the  foregoing  article  may  be  apprehended,  without  the 
limits  that  have  been  assigned  to  him,  the  authorities  will  seize  and 
shoot  him,  within  twenty -four  hours,  without  any  other  proofs  than 
may  be  necessary  to  identify  the  person,  and  without  suffering  any 
appeal  to  a  higher  authority. 

3d.  The  present  law  will  begin  to  act,  respecting  all  those  who  are 
expelled  the  Republic  for  the  crimes  which  are  expressed  in  the  first 
article. 

On  this  account  I  direct  it  to  be  promulgated,  and  to  take  effect  in 
all  parts,  as  a  law  of  the  state. 


Diego  Portales. 


(Signed)  Prieto. 


Santiago,  January  28th,  1837. 


Inasmuch  as  the  National  Congress  has  declared  the  state  to  be  in 
actual  war  with  Peru,  and  in  consequence  clothed  the  President  of 
the  Republic  with  all  the  necessary  powers  that  his  prudence  may 
find  necessary,  for  the  exigency  of  the  state,  without  any  other  limi¬ 
tation  than  that  he  shall  not  condemn  or  give  punishment  of  his  own 
will,  but  leave  these  to  be  judged  by  the  established  tribunals,  or  those 
which  this  present  government  may  hereafter  establish.  In  conse¬ 
quence  of  the  authority  conferred  upon  me,  I  promulgate,  by  the 
articles  forty-third  and  eighty-second  of  the  constitution,  sanction, 
approve,  and  order  the  foregoing  decree  to  be  made  public,  through 
the  press.  Prieto. 

Diego  Portales. 

Santiago,  31st  January,  1837. 


This  decree  did  not  fail  to  renew  the  complaints  of  old  parties 
against  the  government  as  despotic,  &c.  To  carry  on  the  war,  part 
of  two  battalions  of  a  veteran  regiment  from  the  south  arrived  at 
Valparaiso,  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Vidaurre,  a  brave  and 
distinguished  officer.  They  were  ordered  to  Quillota,  where  recruits 
were  to  join  them,  until  the  regiment  should  be  full,  and  where  they 
were  to  be  drilled  and  disciplined,  for  embarkation.  Vidaurre  was 
appointed  head  of  the  staff  of  the  army,  under  Admiral  Blanco 
Encalada,  commander-in-chief.  A  regiment  of  one  thousand  four 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILI.  009 

hundred  men  was  soon  completed,  and  reported  to  be  in  fine  order. 
The  navy,  composed  of  seven  vessels,  was  ready  to  sail.  At  this 
time  Portales,  being  minister  of  war,  came  to  Valparaiso,  to  hasten 
the  departure  of  the  expedition,  and  to  give  his  personal  inspection  to 
its  materiel.  Vidaurre  was  his  protege,  and  an  invitation  to  a  ball, 
said  to  be  about  being  given  in  Quillota,  sent  by  Vidaurre,  was 
accepted  by  Portales,  who  intended  going  there  to  examine  the 
condition  of  the  troops.  At  the  same  time,  he  determined  on 
carrying  Vidaurre  his  epaulettes  and  promotion  as  brigadier  and 
chief  of  the  staff.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  3d  of  June,  1836, 
Vidaurre  ordered  the  troops  into  the  square  for  Portales’  recep¬ 
tion.  When  all  were  assembled,  Vidaurre  made  a  signal;  some 
soldiers  advanced,  surrounded  and  seized  Portales,  who  was  not 
allowed  to  say  a  word,  but  was  hurried  to  prison,  and  heavy  irons 
put  on  him.  An  acta ,  or  declaration,  was  drawn  up  and  signed 
by  about  forty  officers,  all  subalterns,  containing  the  usual  phraseo¬ 
logy  of  such  documents,  about  tyranny,  injustice,  suffering  country, 
&c.  A  servant  of  Portales  escaped  unseen,  and  brought  the 
astounding  intelligence  to  Valparaiso,  soon  after  midnight,  creating 
the  greatest  consternation.  It  was  naturally  supposed  that  an  officer 
of  Vidaurre’s  energy  and  character  would  push  for  Valparaiso 
without  delay.  If  he  had  done  so  he  would  have  taken  it.  Alarm- 
guns  were  fired,  and  before  daylight  the  militia  were  under  arms,  and 
not  long  after  the  squadron,  consisting  of  some  seven  vessels,  were 
hauled  towards  the  Almendral.  I11  the  course  of  the  day,  some  few 
hundred  men,  sent  by  Vidaurre,  were  met  and  repulsed  by  a  body 
of  militia.  Not  long  after,  a  flag  of  truce  was  sent  to  the  town, 
demanding  the  delivery  of  the  “Port”  and  vessels,  threatening,  in 
the  event  of  a  refusal,  to  execute  Portales,  and  in  case  the  town  was 
taken,  to  give  it  up  to  plunder,  besides  shooting  every  officer  found  in 
arms.  It  is  said  that  Vidaurre  offered  to  save  Portales’  life  if  he 
would  write  an  order  for  the  surrender  of  the  town.  This  he  refused 
with  indignation.  The  authorities,  nevertheless,  remained  firm,  and 
allowed  the  flag  to  return.  The  greatest  anxiety  prevailed  in  the 
Port,  as  a  night  attack  was  apprehended,  and  it  was  feared  the 
militia,  new  to  warfare,  would  run,  or  perhaps  join  the  revolters. 
The  measures  taken  to  defend  Valparaiso  were  admirable.  No  con¬ 
fusion  was  observed,  and  the  greatest  alacrity  was  manifested  by 
every  officer  of  the  government  and  citizens  to  aid  the  cause  of  order. 
The  foreign  merchants,  however,  sent  their  books,  papers,  and  money, 

58 


VOL.  I. 


230 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILL 


on  board  the  English  frigate  Blonde,  the  only  foreign  vessel  of  war 
in  port.  Yidanrre  came  on,  confident  of  success.  He  encountered 
the  militia  at  the  entrance  of  the  Port,  about  2  o’clock  in  the  morning, 
and  met  with  so  warm  a  reception  that  he  was  compelled  to  fall  back. 
The  militia  pushed  on,  directed  by  Admiral  Blanco.  The  go¬ 
vernor,  Colonel  Yidaurre,  a  cousin  of  the  revolutionist  chief,  followed 
him  up  so  closely  that  it  ended  in  a  complete  defeat,  Yidaurre’ s 
troops  scattering  themselves  in  every  direction,  himself  flying  with  a 
few  officers.  When  the  fate  of  his  troops  was  decided,  his  step-son, 
who  was  in  the  rear,  where  Portales  was  in  a  gig,  heavily  ironed, 
had  him  taken  out,  with  his  secretary,  and  shot.  Portales  not  being 
killed  by  the  first  fire,  was  bayonetted,  with  savage  brutality,  in 
various  parts  of  his  body,  which  they  left  in  the  road,  covered  with 
thirty-five  wounds.  The  pursuit  continued  throughout  the  day ;  the 
soldiers  were  left  without  officers,  and  gradually  returned  to  their 
old  quarters,  where  they  were  incorporated  with  other  regiments. 
Some  days  elapsed  before  Vidaurre  and  his  accomplices  were  taken. 
Although  a  feeling  of  horror  pervaded  the  community  at  the  fate  of 
Portales,  yet  the  most  perfect  order  and  confidence  continued. 
Neither  on  his  examination,  nor  that  of  his  officers,  did  it  appear 
that  the  movement  had  been  encouraged  by  any  party  in  the  country. 
In  fact,  it  could  only  be  inferred  that  he  was  ambitious  to  play  the 
part  of  a  second  Salaverry. 

Order  triumphed  most  completely.  The  militia  had  arrayed  itself 
on  its  side,  and  increased  confidence  was  felt  in  the  government, 
though  there  were  not  wanting  some  who  predicted  its  speedy 
downfall,  now  that  it  was  deprived  of  its  most  efficient  member. 
Vidaurre  was  replaced  by  a  much  more  respectable  person,  General 
Aldunate,  a  man  characterized  as  the  Don  Quixote  of  honour  by 
those  less  scrupulous  than  himself.  The  government  gained  by 
this  exchange,  but  the  loss  sustained  in  the  death  of  Portales  was 
irreparable.  He  stood  alone ;  he  worked  for  his  country ;  and  his 
fate  was  most  unmerited.  Deeply  did  every  true  friend  of  Chili 
deplore  it.  He  had  taught  that  the  civil  authority  could  be  made 
supreme,  and  he  will  have  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  places  in  the 
history  of  Chili.  He  was  in  the  prime  of  life,  about  forty-two  years 
of  age,  unmarried,  and  at  no  period  were  his  services  more  required. 
His  energy,  however,  seemed  to  have  been  imbibed  by  the  whole  ad¬ 
ministration,  and  no  abatement  took  place  in  the  preparations  for  war. 

Yidaurre  and  his  officers  were  tried  by  a  court-martial  held  in 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILL 


231 


Valparaiso,  and  condemned  to  be  executed.  Twelve  were  shot,  the 
rest  were  banished.  This  was  the  first  execution  of  such  a  sentence 
for  political  offences  that  had  ever  occurred  in  Chili.  Some  pretended 
to  bode  ill  from  it,  but  its  effects  so  far  have  been  salutary ;  and 
these  desperate  characters  will  not  be  inclined  to  run  headlong  into 
revolutionary  movements  after  seeing  the  fruits  of  it. 

The  expedition,  composed  of  three  thousand  men,  finally  sailed, 
and  disembarking  at  Islay,  proceeded  to  Arequipa,  the  second  city  of 
Peru,  of  which  they  took  possession.  Santa  Cruz’s  troops  retired  to 
the  interior.  Lafuente  was  here  proclaimed  Supreme  Chief,  according 
to  prescribed  forms  in  such  cases  provided,  and  set  about  organizing 
his  government,  filling  offices  without  a  real  of  revenue,  or  any  source 
from  which  he  could  raise  any.  No  disaffected  Peruvians  joined 
them,  and  their  situation  became  very  critical,  as  Santa  Cruz  was 
concentrating  his  forces,  and  threatened  to  cut  off  their  communi¬ 
cation  with  their  ships.  Thus  hemmed  in,  they  would  have  been 
obliged  to  surrender  at  discretion.  These  advantages  were  possessed 
by  Santa  Cruz,  and  the  Chilians  saw  no  way  of  escape.  Why  Santa 
Cruz  should  have  lost  this  opportunity  to  strike  a  decided  blow,  is 
inconceivable.  He  did,  however,  lose  it,  and  proposed  to  treat. 
Communications  passed  for  some  days.  Santa  Cruz’s  army  aug¬ 
menting  daily,  was  now  double  that  of  the  Chilian  general,  who 
seemed  to  have  no  alternative  but  submission.  Still  he  put  a  brave 
countenance  on  the  affair,  and  signed  at  Paucarpata  a  treaty  with 
Santa  Cruz,  having  previously  held  a  council  of  war,  which  was  at¬ 
tended  by  the  minister  plenipotentiary  which  the  Chilian  government 
had  sent  with  the  expedition.  There  was  no  voice  raised  against  the 
treaty.  It  was  honourable  to  the  Chilians,  and  saved  their  whole 
army.  Festivities  followed,  after  which  the  Chilian  army  embarked 
and  returned  home.  Neither  the  government  nor  the  people  were 
satisfied.  Blanco  was  received  coldly,  and  landed  secretly.  The 
President  refused  to  ratify  the  treaty.  It  was  considered  dis¬ 
graceful,  as  the  object  of  the  war  was  not  gained,  and  singularly 
enough,  the  war  now  became  popular  with  all  parties.  The  army 
landed  in  perfect  order.  Blanco  was  deprived  of  his  command,  and 
a  court-martial  ordered.  The  troops  were  again  sent  to  Quillota, 
and  the  greatest  enthusiasm  seemed  to  prevail.  A  new  and  more 
formidable  expedition  was  determined  on,  and  General  Bulnes,  the 
President’s  nephew,  who  commanded  the  troops  on  the  frontiers,  and 
was  known  as  a  bold  dashing  officer,  was  appointed  to  the  command. 


232 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  CHILI. 


Many  thought  the  government  mad,  foresaw  forced  loans,  and  all  the 
attendant  evils,  great  financial  difficulties,  and,  eventually,  revolution. 
Still  the  government  moved  steadily  on.  Six  thousand  men  were 
soon  got  together,  well  officered,  well  equipped,  and  with  a  military 
chest  well  filled.  It  is  generally  believed  that  the  church  made  a 
loan  to  the  government  for  this  war,  and  it  is  said  that  they  possess 
one-eighth  of  the  landed  property  of  the  country.  The  second 
expedition  sailed,  confident  of  success.  No  loans  were  asked  for 
by  government,  nor  any  funds  other  than  the  ordinary  revenue  used, 
yet  no  account  remained  unpaid.  This  was  and  continues  to  be  the 
marvel  of  every  one.  The  greatest  regularity  was  observed  in  all 
the  dealings  of  the  government  agents ;  no  complaints  of  extortion  or 
abuses  were  heard.  The  internal  affairs  of  the  country  went  on  as 
if  no  war  existed.  Improvements  were  not  neglected;  light-houses 
built ;  roads  improved ;  and  no  interruption  took  place  in  the  usual 
operations  of  government.  With  this  last  expedition  went  General 
Gamara,  one  of  the  fathers  of  Peruvian  revolution,  grown  gray  in  the 
service.  Lafuente  went  as  his  adjunct,  though  he  had  once  made  a 
revolution  against  him.  With  these  went  a  host  of  military  leeches, 
Peruvian  exiles,  ready  to  bleed  their  country  to  its  last  gasp.  High- 
sounding  words  of  patriotism,  oppressed  country,  self-devotion,  &c., 
flowed  from  them  in  most  extravagant  terms.  From  their  local 
information  it  was  well  for  the  Chilians  to  have  them,  but  they  were 
the  fire-brands  of  the  army  as  a  part  of  its  material.  Bulnes,  a  plain 
blunt  soldier,  it  was  felt  would  use*  no  ceremony  with  any  of  them 
if  he  found  them  playing  the  fool,  which  those  who  knew  their 
characters  thought  they  would. 

The  remaining  part  of  the  operations  of  the  Chilian  army  in  Peru, 
will  be  treated  of  when  I  give  the  sketch  of  the  history  of  that 
country. 


STIRRUPS,  SPURS,  ETC.,  OF  CHILI. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


CONTENTS. 

PORPOISE  SAILS— ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS— DIFFICULTIES  OF  LEAVING  THE  BAY 
—REGULATIONS  OF  PORT  BADLY  OBSERVED— CONDUCT  OF  THE  CAPTAIN  OF  HAMBURG 
VESSEL  — DEPARTURE  — PART  COMPANY  WITH  PEACOCK  AND  TENDER  —  EVENTS  ON 
PASSAGE  TO  CALLAO— ZODIACAL  LIGHTS— MAKE  THE  COAST  OF  PERU— TEMPERATURE 
OF  WATER— ENTER  BOUQUERON  PASSAGE— ANCHOR  AT  SAN  LORENZO —  GEOLOGICAL 
STRUCTURE  OF  ISLAND  —  BURYING  -  GROUND  —  ARRIVAL  OF  FALMOUTH  —  CAPTAIN 
M’KEEVER— HIS  KINDNESS— DESERTERS— CONDUCT  OF  CREW  OF  RELIEF— PUNISHMENT 
—EFFECTUAL  SUPPRESSION  OF  SUCH  CONDUCT —COURT-MARTIAL  — JUSTIFICATION — 
CHANGE  OF  ANCHORAGE  TO  CALLAO— HEIGHT  OF  LIVIA— MOLE— CALLAO— VESSELS  IN 
PORT— CASTLE— DESCRIPTION  OF  HOUSES— RELIGIOUS  PRACTICES  —  MARKET— REVIEW 
OF  TROOPS— OLD  CALLAO— EFFECTS  OF  EARTHQUAKE— VAULTS  FOR  DEPOSITING  THE 
DEAD— POPULATION  OF  CALLAO— FOURTH  OF  JULY— ROAD  TO  LIMA  —  DE VAST ATIONS— 
BELLA  VISTA  —  APPROACH  TO  LIMA  —  ENTRANCE  AND  APPEARANCE  —  ITS  PLAN — 
AMUSEMENTS  — SAYA  AND  MANTA  — ITS  PRIVILEGES —DESCRIPTION  OF  IT— HOUSES— 
PORTALES  OR  ARCADES— PALACE— FOUNTAIN— CATHEDRAL— CRYPT— NOVEL  HEARSE- 
MARKET— CON  VENT  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO— LIBRARY— SIGNATURE  OF  PIZARRO— FOUNDING 
OF  LIMA  —  THEATRE  —  NAVAL  SCHOOL  —  CLASSES  OF  NATIVES  —POPULATION  —  NEWS- 
PAPERS-HAND-BILLS— FESTIVAL— CORPUS  CHRISTI— MR.  MATHEWS— MANUFACTORIES— 
FESTIVAL  OF  ST.  JOHN’S— AMANC AES  — CELEBRATION— EARTHQUAKES— EFFECTS  PRO¬ 
DUCED— GATEWAY,  NAVAL  SCHOOL— CLIMATE-RAIN-MEAN  TEMPERATURE— HEALTH— 
RIMAC— IRRIGATION— HARVEST— CHILIAN  ARMY— STATE  OF  THE  COUNTRY— MANNER  OF 
RECRUITING  THE  ARMY  —  TREATMENT  OF  SLAVES-DEATH  OF  BENJAMIN  HOLDEN  — 
SM A  LL-POX— PREC  AUTIONS  A  DOPTED. 


CHAP  TEE  XII. 


PERU. 

1839. 

On  the  26th  of  May,  the  Porpoise  sailed  for  Callao,  in  order  that 
some  repairs  might  be  made  on  her,  which  our  time  here  did  not 
admit  of.  At  Valparaiso  the  weather  was  extremely  unfavourable 
for  astronomical  observations.  I  had  been  in  great  hopes  of  being 
able  to  obtain  a  series  of  moon  culminating  stars,  and  occupations, 
but  no  opportunity  occurred,  so  that  I  had  to  content  myself  with 
those  for  rating  the  chronometers,  and  to  connect  this  port  with  Callao. 
The  longitude  adopted  for  Fort  San  Antonio,  was  71°  39'  20"  W., 
which  is  the  last  determination  of  it  by  King  and  Fitzroy. 

On  the  4th  we  made  an  attempt  to  get  out  of  the  bay,  but  were 
obliged  again  to  cast  anchor.  At  this  season  of  the  year,  light 
northerly  winds  usually  prevail,  and  a  heavy  swell  frequently  sets  in 
the  bay,  making  the  roadstead  very  uncomfortable,  and  at  times 
dangerous.  The  vessels  are  too  much  crowded,  and  the  regulations 
of  the  port  are  not  sufficiently  attended  to. 

I  was  not  a  little  amused  with  the  master  of  a  Hamburg  barque, 
who  dropped  his  anchor  so  as  to  foul  the  berth  of  my  ship,  and  when 
he  brought  up,  swung  close  alongside.  He  seemed  perfectly  satisfied 
with  his  situation,  and  apparently  knew  little  about  his  business, 
showing  all  the  doggedness  of  his  countrymen.  The  weather  looking 
threatening,  I  sent  him  word  to  move,  stating  that  in  case  of  a  change 
of  wind,  he  would  be  greatly  injured.  He  quietly  replied  that  his 
vessel  was  made  of  teak,  and  that  his  underwriters  or  my  government 
would  pay  his  damages,  and  that  he  could  stand  a  good  deal  of 
grinding !  Without  more  ado,  I  sent  an  officer  and  men,  and  put  him 
at  once  out  of  my  way. 


236 


PERU. 


On  the  6th,  we  had  a  breeze  from  the  southward  and  eastward,  and 
immediately  got  under  way  with  the  squadron,  and  succeeded  in 
making  an  offing.  As  we  opened  the  land  to  the  southward  my  view 
and  thoughts  wandered  in  that  direction,  hoping  that  still,  and  at  the 
last  moment,  the  missing  tender  might  heave  in  sight.  But  no  white 
speck  was  seen,  or  any  thing  that  could  cause  a  ray  of  hope  that  she 
might  yet  be  in  existence,  and  my  fears  foreboded  what  has  since 
proved  too  true, — she  and  her  crew  had  perished. 

On  the  second  day  after  leaving  Valparaiso,  we  had  a  fresh  gale 
from  the  northward,  accompanied  with  much  sea.  During  the  night, 
in  thick  weather,  we  lost  sight  of  the  Peacock  and  Flying-Fish.  On 
the  9th  we  got  beyond  the  wind,  which  blows  along  the  coast  from 
the  northward,  and  our  weather  improved,  exchanging  fog,  rain,  mist, 
and  contrary  winds,  for  clear  weather,  and  winds  from  the  southwest. 
The  current  was  found  west  by  north,  nine  miles  in  twenty-four 
hours.  The  wind,  however,  continued  variable.  On  the  12th,  in 
longitude  74°  40'  W.,  latitude  28°  34'  S.,  we  took  the  trades,  but  they 
proved  very  unsteady.  They  would  be  very  strong  for  a  few  hours, 
and  then  again  light  and  almost  calm,  with  squally  appearances  all 
around  the  horizon.  The  sea  was  quite  smooth,  and  the  weather 
pleasant.  During  the  days  that  the  trade  winds  were  not  strong,  we 
usually  had  the  wind  to  vary  to  the  northward  and  eastward  for  a 
few  hours. 

On  the  morning  of  the  1 9  th,  the  zodiacal  light  was  quite  brilliant, 
resembling  the  aurora  borealis,  but  without  its  radiating,  vacillating, 
and  transitory  appearance,  and  having  the  form  of  a  distinct  narrow 
cone.  At  its  base  it  was  20° ;  the  apex  could  not  be  ascertained  on 
account  of  the  intervention  of  clouds.  As  the  dawn  increased  the 
cone  grew  broader,  until  it  wTas  lost  in  the  daylight.  Its  wdiole 
duration  was  about  forty-five  minutes.  The  stars  were  seen  through 
it,  as  though  covered  with  a  transparent  veil.  On  the  same  day  we 
found  the  temperature  at  bottom  in  eighty-three  fathoms  57°,  whilst 
at  the  surface  it  was  63°.  We  were  then  abreast  of  Point  Sola,  and 
San  Lorenzo  bore  to  the  north,  distant  twenty-five  miles. 

On  the  20th,  in  the  evening,  we  passed  through  the  Bouqueron 
Passage,  having  got  several  casts  of  the  lead  in  three  and  a  quarter 
fathoms  water,  and  by  the  assistance  of  the  lights  of  the  other  vessels, 
anchored  near  the  rest  of  the  squadron  at  San  Lorenzo,  after  a  pas¬ 
sage  of  thirteen  days.  We  found  them  all  well,  and  proceeding 
rapidly  with  their  repairs.  The  Peacock  and  Flying-Fish  arrived 


PERU. 


237 


two  days  before  us.  We  found  the  current  generally  with  us,  but  not 
strong.  The  temperature  of  the  water  varied  at  sea  from  58-27°  to  66-5°, 
that  of  the  air,  from  57-3°  to  63-04°,  a  rise  of  eight  degrees  in  the  former 
and  six  degrees  in  the  latter  in  twenty-one  degrees  of  latitude. 

On  receiving  the  reports  of  the  commanders  of  the  different  vessels, 
active  operations  were  at  once  begun  to  refit,  replenish  our  stores,  and 
complete  our  duties.  The  necessary  changes  in  officers  and  men 
were  made,  in  consequence  of  my  determination  to  send  the  Relief 
home.  This  I  did  on  several  accounts.  I  have  stated  that  from  the 
first  I  found  her  ill  adapted  to  the  service ;  her  sailing  I  saw  would 
retard  all  my  operations,  and  be  a  constant  source  of  anxiety  to  me  ; 
and  I  felt  that  I  already  had  objects  enough  without  her  to  occupy 
and  engross  my  attention.  The  expense  was  another  consideration, 
which  I  conceived  myself  unauthorized  to  subject  the  government  to, 
particularly  as  I  found  on  calculation,  that  for  one-tenth  of  the  sum  it 
would  cost  to  keep  her,  I  could  send  our  stores  and  provisions  to  any 
part  of  the  Pacific. 

We  found  it  necessary  to  have  the  Relief  smoked,  in  order  to 
destroy  the  rats  with  which  she  was  infested,  to  save  our  stores 
from  further  damage.  During  this  time  the  repairs  of  the  Porpoise 
had  been  completed,  and  the  usual  observations  for  rating  our 
chronometers,  and  with  the  magnetic  instruments,  were  made  on 
shore;  and  such  officers  as  could  be  spared  allowed  to  visit  Lima. 
The  naturalists  were  also  busy  in  their  several  departments.  We 
remained  at  San  Lorenzo  ten  days,  during  which  time  its  three 
highest  points  were  measured  with  barometers  at  the  same  time. 
The  result  gave  eight  hundred  and  ninety-six  feet  for  the  southern, 
nine  hundred  and  twenty  for  the  middle,  and  twelve  hundred  and 
eighty-four  feet  for  the  northern  summit.  Upon  the  latter  the 
clouds  generally  rest,  and  it  is  the  only  place  on  the  island  where 
vegetation  is  enabled  to  exist.  The  others  are  all  barren  sandy 
hills.  It  is  said  that  the  only  plant  which  has  been  cultivated  is 
the  potato,  and  that  only  on  the  north  peak.  This  becomes  possible 
there  from  the  moisture  of  the  clouds,  and  their  shielding  it  from 
the  hot  sun. 

The  geological  structure  of  the  island  is  principally  composed  of 
limestone,  clay,  and  slate.  It  presents  a  beautiful  stratification. 
Gypsum  is  found  in  some  places  between  the  strata,  and  crystals  of 
selenite  are  found  in  one  or  two  localities.  Quantities  of  shell-fish 
are  found  on  the  shore,  and  the  waters  abound  with  excellent  fish. 


VOL.  I. 


60 


238 


PERU. 


The  burying-ground  is  the  only  object  of  interest  here.  The 
graves  are  covered  with  white  shells,  and  a  white  board,  on  which  is 
inscribed  the  name,  &c.  They  appear  to  be  mostly  of  Englishmen 
and  Americans,  and  it  would  seem  that  the  mortality  had  been 
great.  But  when  one  comes  to  consider  the  large  number  of  men-of- 
war  which  have  been  lying  in  the  bay,  and  the  period  of  time  elapsed, 
the  number  of  dead  does  not  seem  large. 

It  was  with  much  pleasure  we  greeted  the  arrival  of  the  Falmouth, 
Captain  McKeever,  whose  kindness  in  supplying  our  wants  and 
forwarding  our  operations,  we  again  experienced.  The  essential  and 
timely  aid  he  gave  me,  in  exchanging  the  launch  and  first  cutter  of 
his  ship,  for  materials  to  build  one,  which  I  had  brought  from  Valpa¬ 
raiso  for  that  purpose,  prevented  our  detention  here. 

The  Falmouth  brought  from  Valparaiso  three  deserters  from  the 
squadron,  who  had  been  apprehended  by  Lieutenant  Craven,  and 
from  whom  I  received  a  report  stating  that  two  of  them,  Blake  and 
Lester,  had  been  guilty  not  only  of  desertion,  but  that  their  desertions 
had  been  attended  with  very  aggravated  circumstances.  Just  about 
this  time  the  stores  were  delivering  from  the  Relief.  Among  them 
was  a  quantity  of  whiskey  for  the  other  vessels.  The  marines  who 
were  placed  on  duty  over  the  spirit-room  as  guard,  with  six  persons 
employed  in  moving  it,  got  drunk  by  stealing  the  liquor,  and  her 
whole  crew  became  riotous.  The  delinquents  were  ordered  on  board 
my  ship  in  confinement.  These  were  court-martial  offences,  but  the 
duties  of  the  squadron  would  not  permit  me  to  order  a  court  for  their 
trial,  without  great  loss  of  time  and  detriment  to  the  service.  To  let 
such  offences  pass  with  the  ordinary  punishment  of  twelve  lashes, 
would  have  been  in  the  eyes  of  the  crew  to  have  overlooked  their 
crime  altogether.  I  was,  therefore,  compelled,  in  order  to  preserve 
order  and  good  discipline,  to  inflict  what  I  deemed  a  proper  punish¬ 
ment,  and  ordered  them  each  to  receive  twenty -four  lashes,  excepting 
Blake  and  Lester,  who  received  thirty- six  and  forty-one.  This  was 
awarding  to  each  about  one-tenth  of  what  a  court-martial  would  have 
inflicted  ;  yet  it  was  such  an  example  as  thoroughly  convinced  the  men 
that  they  could  not  offend  with  impunity.  This  was,  I  am  well  satis¬ 
fied,  considered  at  the  time  as  little  or  no  punishment  for  the  crimes 
of  which  they  had  been  guilty,  but  I  felt  satisfied  that  the  prompt 
and  decided  manner  in  which  it  was  administered  would  have  the 
desired  effect  of  preserving  the  proper  discipline,  and  preventing  its 
recurrence.  In  this  I  was  not  disappointed.  I  should  not  have 


PERU. 


239 


made  this  statement,  had  it  not  been  that  this  was  the  sole  charge  out 
of  eleven,  spread  out  into  thirty-six  specifications,  on  which  a  court  of 
thirteen  members,  after  an  investigation  of  three  weeks,  could,  find  I 
had  transgressed  the  laws  of  the  navy  in  the  smallest  degree.  In 
justification  of  my  course  on  this  occasion,  I  could  not  but  believe 
that  the  following  clause  of  my  instructions  from  the  Hon.  J.  K. 
Paulding,  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  ought  to  have  sufficed:  “In  the 
prosecution  of  these  long  and  devious  voyages,  you  will  necessarily 
he  placed  in  situations  which  cannot  be  anticipated,  and  in  which 
sometimes  your  own  judgment  and  discretion,  and  at  others  necessity, 
must  be  your  guide.”  Under  this  I  acted.  I  am  fully  satisfied  that 
in  this  case  circumstances  did  occur,  which  in  the  language  of  my 
instructions  did  make  “necessity  my  guide,”  and  I  fully  believe  that 
in  so  doing  I  saved  the  results  of  the  Expedition,  the  honour  of  the 
navy,  and  the  glory  of  the  country. 

On  the  30th  of  June  the  squadron  went  over  to  Callao. 

The  Bay  of  Callao  is  too  well  known  to  require  much  to  be  said  of 
it.  The  climate,  combined  with  the  prevailing  winds,  make  it  a  fine 
harbour.  The  island  of  San  Lorenzo  protects  it  on  the  west  from  the 
swell  of  the  ocean,  but  its  northern  side  is  entirely  exposed ;  there  is 
no  danger  to  be  apprehended  from  that  quarter.  A  few  miles  to  the 
north  the  influence  of  San  Lorenzo  ceases ;  the  surf  there  breaks  very 
heavily  upon  the  beach,  and  prevents  any  landing. 

The  gradual  manner  in  which  the  extensive  plain  rises  from 
Callao  towards  Lima,  seems  to  give  a  very  erroneous  idea  of  the 
situation  of  the  city.  From  the  bay  it  is  seen  quite  distinctly,  about 
six  miles  distant,  and  does  not  appear  to  be  elevated ;  yet  I  measured 
the  height  of  Mr.  Bartlett’s  house  above  the  level  of  the  sea  by 
sympiesometer,  and  found  it  four  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  The 
rise  would  be  scarcely  perceptible  to  a  stranger  passing  over  the 
road,  or  one  who  had  not  a  practised  eye. 

The  tide  at  Callao  is  small,  generally  of  three  and  four  feet  rise. 
The  temperature  of  the  water  during  our  stay  was  60°;  of  the  air 
from  57°  to  63°. 

Since  my  visit  to  Callao  in  1821,  it  had  much  altered  and  for  the 
better,  notwithstanding  the  vicissitudes  it  has  gone  through  since  that 
time.  A  fine  mole  has  been  erected,  surrounded  by  an  iron  railing. 
On  it  is  a  guard-house,  with  soldiers  lounging  about,  and  some  two  or 
three  on  guard. 

The  mole  affords  every  convenience  for  landing  from  small  vessels 


4k 


240 


PERU. 


and  boats.  The  streets  of  Callao  have  been  made  much  wider,  and 
the  town  has  a  more  decent  appearance.  Water  is  conducted  from 
the  canal  to  the  mole,  and  a  railway  takes  the  goods  to  the  fortress, 
which  is  now  converted  into  a  depot.  This  place,  the  seaport  of 
Lima,  must  be  one  of  the  great  resorts  of  shipping,  not  only  for  its 
safety,  but  for  the  convenience  of  providing  supplies.  The  best  idea 
of  its  trade  will  be  formed  from  the  number  of  vessels  that  frequent  it. 
I  have  understood  that  there  is  generally  about  the  same  number  as 
we  found  in  port,  namely,  forty-two,  nine  of  which  were  ships  of  war  : 
five  American,  two  French,  one  Chilian,  and  thirty-five  Peruvian 
merchantmen,  large  and  small. 

The  Castle  of  Callao  has  become  celebrated  in  history,  and  has  long- 
been  the  key  of  Peru.  Whichever  party  had  it  in  possession,  were 
considered  as  the  possessors  of  the  country.  It  is  now  converted  to  a 
better  use,  viz. :  that  of  a  custom-house,  and  is  nearly  dismantled. 
Only  five  of  its  beautiful  guns  remain,  out  of  one  hundred  and  forty- 
five,  which  it  is  said  to  have  mounted.  During  our  visit  there  the 
Chilian  troops  had  possession  of  the  country,  which  they  had  held 
since  the  battle  of  Yungai.  Most  of  the  buildings  are  undergoing 
repairs  since  the  late  contest. 

It  is  said  that  the  fortress  is  to  be  demolished,  and  thus  the  peace 
of  Callao  will  in  a  great  measure  be  secured. 

The  principal  street  of  Callao  runs  parallel  with  the  bay.  There 
are  a  few  tolerably  well-built  two-story  houses  on  the  main  street, 
which  is  paved.  These  houses  are  built  of  adobes,  and  have  flat 
roofs,  which  is  no  inconvenience  here,  in  consequence  of  the  absence 
of  heavy  rains.  The  interior  of  the  houses  is  of  the  commonest  kind 
of  work.  The  partition  walls  are  built  of  cane,  closely  laced  together. 
The  houses  of  the  common  people  are  of  one  story,  and  about  ten  feet 
high ;  some  of  them  have  a  grated  window,  but  most  of  them  only  a 
doorway  and  one  room.  Others  are  seen  that  hardly  deserve  the 
name  of  houses,  being  nothing  more  than  mud  walls,  with  holes 
covered  with  a  mat,  and  the  same  overhead. 

The  outskirts  of  Callao  deserve  mentioning  only  for  their  excessive 
filth,  and  were  it  not  for  the  fine  climate  it  would  be  the  hot-bed  of 
pestilence.  One  feels  glad  to  escape  from  this  neighbourhood. 

The  donations  to  the  clergy  or  priests  and  the  two  small  chapels, 
are  collected  on  Saturdays  from  the  inhabitants.  On  the  evening  of 
the  same  day,  the  devotees  of  the  church,  headed  by  the  priest,  carry 
a  small  portable  altar  through  the  streets,  decorated  with  much  tinsel, 


PERU. 


241 


and  various-coloured  glass  lamps,  on  which  is  a  rude  painting  of  the 
Virgin.  As  they  walk,  they  chaunt  their  prayers. 

The  market,  though  there  is  nothing  else  remarkable  about  it, 
exhibits  many  of  the  peculiar  customs  of  the  country.  It  is  held  in 
a  square  of  about  one  and  a  half  acres.  The  stands  for  selling  meat 
are  placed  indiscriminately,  or  without  order.  Beef  is  sold  for  from 
four  to  six  cents  the  pound,  is  cut  in  the  direction  of  its  fibre,  and 
looks  filthy.  It  is  killed  on  the  commons,  and  the  hide,  head,  and 
horns,  are  left  for  the  buzzards  and  dogs.  The  rest  is  brought  to 
market  on  the  backs  of  donkeys.  Chickens  are  cut  up  to  suit  pur¬ 
chasers.  Fish  and  vegetables  are  abundant,  and  of  good  kinds,  and 
good  fruit  may  be  had,  if  bespoken ;  in  this  case  it  is  brought  from 
Lima.  Every  thing  confirms,  on  landing,  the  truth  of  the  geogra¬ 
phical  adage,  “  In  Peru  it  never  rains.”  It  appears  every  where 
dusty  and  parched  up. 

We  had  a  good  opportunity  of  visiting  the  far-famed  fortress.  It  is 
said  to  be  able  to  contain  ten  thousand  troops ;  and,  from  its  extent, 
would  appear  capable  of  accommodating  that  number  with  ease. 
What  engaged  our  attention  most,  was  a  review  of  the  soldiers  of 
the  garrison.  They  are  about  eight  hundred  strong,  and  every  one 
seemed  to  be  “acting  on  his  own  hook,”  as  they  are  said  to  have 
done  in  the  late  battle.  The  officers,  instead  of  swords,  carried  cow¬ 
hides,  about  five  feet  in  length,  which  they  applied  with  earnestness 
to  the  men,  and  indeed,  from  appearances,  they  seemed  to  require  it, 
if  they  were  ever  to  be  changed  into  soldiers. 

The  situation  of  old  Callao  is  still  visible,  under  the  water,  and 
though  an  interesting  object,  becomes  a  melancholy  one,  when  one 
thinks  of  the  havoc  a  few  minutes  effected.  The  very  foundation 
seems  to  have  been  upturned  and  shaken  to  pieces,  and  the  whole 
submerged  by  a  mighty  wave.  The  wonder  is  that  any  one  escaped 
to  tell  the  tale. 

Two  crosses  mark  the  height  to  which  the  sea  rose  :  the  upper 
one,  one-third  of  the  way  to  Lima,  indicates  the  extreme  distance  to 
which  the  water  flowed ;  the  lower  one  marks  the  place  whither 
the  Spanish  frigate  was  carried.  I  very  much  doubt  the  truth  of 
either.  I  can  easily  conceive  that  a  great  wave  would  be  sufficient 
to  carry  a  large  vessel  from  her  moorings  half  a  mile  inland,  but  I 
cannot  imagine  how  the  wmter  should  have  reached  the  height  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  at  least  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  yet 

61 


VOL.  I. 


242 


PERU. 


permitted  two  hundred  inhabitants  of  old  Callao  to  have  escaped  on 
the  walls  of  a  church  which  are  not  half  that  height. 

Outside  the  walls  of  the  fortress  are  several  large  vaults,  filled 
with  the  dead,  in  all  stages  of  decay,  and  on  which  the  vultures  were 
gorging  themselves  :  this  was  a  revolting  spectacle.  Indeed,  it  is  truly 
surprising  that  the  higher  classes,  and  those  in  immediate  authority, 
should  not  feel  the  necessity  of  appearing  more  civilized  in  the  dispo¬ 
sition  of  their  dead.  Many  are  thrown  in  naked,  and  covered  only 
with  a  few  inches  of  sand.  Great  numbers  of  skeletons  are  still  seen 
with  pieces  of  clothing  hanging  to  them.  Dogs  and  vultures  in  great 
numbers  were  every  where  feeding  upon  the  dead,  or  standing  aloof 
fairly  gorged  with  their  disgusting  repast.  If  any  thing  is  calculated 
to  make  a  people  brutal,  and  to  prevent  the  inculcation  of  proper 
feeling,  it  is  such  revolting  sights  as  these. 

Callao  is  said  to  contain  between  two  and  three  thousand  inhabi¬ 
tants  ;  but  this  number,  from  the  appearance  of  the  place,  seems  to  be 
overrated.  Several  new  buildings  are  going  up,  which  proves,  that 
notwithstanding  the  times  of  revolution,  they  still  persist  in  carrying 
on  improvements.  The  principal  street  is  about  a  third  of  a  mile  in 
length,  and  is  tolerably  well  paved,  with  sidewalks.  Billiard-signs 
stare  you  in  the  face.  This,  I  presume,  may  be  set  down  as  the 
great  amusement,  to  which  may  be  added  the  favourite  monte  at 
night.  There  is  no  lack  of  pulperias. 

Coaches,  or  rather  omnibusses,  run  several  times  a  day  to  Lima. 
The  old  accounts  of  robberies  on  the  road  to  Lima,  are  still  fresh  in 
the  mouths  of  strangers.  In  times  of  revolution  it  was  infested  by 
robbers,  but  the  steps  taken  by  government  have  effectually  put  a 
stop  to  them. 

The  4th  of  July  was  duly  celebrated.  The  Falmouth,  Captain 
M’Keever,  fired  a  salute  in  honour  of  the  day,  and  the  Vincennes 
was  dressed  with  national  flags. 

On  the  road  to  Lima  is  Bella  Vista;  but  it  is  in  ruins,  and  has 
been  so  ever  since  the  revolution.  It  was  generally  the  outpost 
or  battle-ground  of  the  two  parties ;  and  although  the  soil  in 
the  plain  which  borders  the  sea  is  extremely  fertile,  consisting  of 
decomposed  rock,  containing  the  elements  of  fertility  in  the  greatest 
abundance,  it  now  appears  a  neglected  waste.  Attention  to  its 
cultivation  and  irrigation  would  make  it  a  perfect  garden.  On 
approaching  Lima,  the  gardens  and  fields  are  found  to  be  cul- 


PERU. 


243 


tivated  and  well  irrigated.  Fields  of  Indian  corn  are  seen,  some 
fully  ripe,  some  half-grown,  and  others  just  shooting  up, — a  novel 
sight  to  us.  This  hears  testimony  not  only  to  the  fineness  of  the 
climate,  but  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  The  gardens  near  the  city 
are  filled  to  profusion  with  fruits  of  all  descriptions. 

The  road,  on  its  near  approach  to  the  city,  forms  an  avenue  of 
about  a  mile  in  length.  This,  in  its  prosperous  days,  was  the  usual 
evening;  drive,  and  afforded  a  most  agreeable  one.  On  each  side  are 
gardens  filled  with  orange  trees,  the  fragrance  of  whose  flowers,  and 
the  beauty  and  variety  of  the  fruit,  added  to  its  pleasures.  It  is  now 
going  to  decay  from  utter  neglect.  Its  rows  of  willows,  and  the 
streams  of  running  water  on  each  side,  though  forming  its  great 
attraction,  will,  if  suffered  to  remain  without  attention,  be  completely 
destroyed.  No  one  seems  to  take  interest  in  the  public  works.  So 
marked  a  difference  from  Chili  could  not  but  be  observed. 

At  Lima  I  was  struck  with  the  change  that  had  taken  place  since 
my  former  visit.  Every  thing  now  betokens  poverty  and  decay ; 
a  sad  change  from  its  former  splendour  and  wealth.  This  appear¬ 
ance  was  observed  not  only  in  the  city,  but  also  among  the  in¬ 
habitants.  Whole  families  have  been  swept  off,  and  their  former 
attendants,  or  strangers,  have  become  the  possessors  of  their  houses 
and  property. 

The  country  has  been  a  scene  of  commotion  and  revolution  for  the 
last  twenty-five  years,  of  which  Lima  for  a  long  time  was  the  centre. 
The  fate  of  Lower  Peru  being  entirely  dependent  on  it,  and  the  fortress 
of  Callao,  the  alternate  possessors  have  stripped  it  and  its  inhabitants 
in  every  way  in  their  power.  It  may  with  truth  be  designated  a 
declining  city. 

The  neglected  walls  and  ruined  tenements,  the  want  of  stir  and  life 
among  the  people,  are  sad  evidences  of  this  decay.  The  population 
is  now  said  to  be  about  forty-five  thousand,  although  in  former  times 
it  has  been  supposed  to  amount  to  as  many  as  sixty-five  or  seventy 
thousand. 

The  aspect  of  the  city,  especially  a  bird’s-eye  view  from  the 
neighbouring  hills,  gives  to  the  eye  of  the  stranger  the  appearance 
of  ruins.  There  are  few  buildings  that  have  the  look  of  dura¬ 
bility,  and  no  new  ones  have  been  put  up  for  the  last  forty  years. 
The  plan  of  the  city  combines  more  advantages  than  any  other  that 
could  have  been  adopted  for  the  locality.  The  streets  are  at  right 


244 


PERU. 


angles,  and  all  sufficiently  broad.  Those  which  run  with  the 
declivity  of  the  ground,  northwest  and  southeast,  have  water  flowing 
through  their  middle.  They  have  not,  however,  a  very  clean  ap¬ 
pearance  ;  but  this  is  certainly  not  to  be  imputed  to  the  want  of  the 
facility  of  being  made  so.  The  uses  to  which  these  streams  are  put, 
and  the  numerous  buzzards  that  frequent  them,  gives  the  stranger 
any  other  idea  than  that  of  cleanliness.  The  buzzards  are  protected 
by  law,  and  may  be  seen  fighting  for  their  food  in  the  gutters, 
regardless  of  passers;  or  sitting  on  the  tops  of  the  houses,  thirty  or 
forty  in  a  row,  watching  for  more  food. 

Great  attention  has  been  paid  to  laying  out  the  Alameda,  which  is 
on  the  north  side  of  the  city.  Its  centre  is  ornamented  with  a 
number  of  fountains;  its  walks  are  well  shaded  on  each  side  with 
trees ;  and  the  running  water  adds  to  its  freshness  :  all  unite  to 
form  a  delightful  promenade.  In  the  cool  of  the  evening  it  is  much 
frequented,  and  its  stone  seats  are  occupied  by  numbers  of  citizens. 
This  is  the  best  place  to  get  a  view  of  the  inhabitants ;  and  notwith¬ 
standing  their  internal  commotions,  they  appear  fully  to  enjoy  their 
cigarittas,  which  they  are  constantly  smoking.  The  peculiar  dress 
of  the  ladies  is  here  seen  to  the  best  advantage,  and,  however  fitted  it 
may  be  to  cover  intrigue,  is  not,  certainly,  adapted  to  the  display  of 
beauty.  A  more  awkward  and  absurd  dress  cannot  well  be  conceived. 
It  is  by  no  means  indicative  of  the  wearer’s  rank,  for  frequently  this 
disguise  is  ragged  and  tattered,  and  assumed  under  its  most  forbid¬ 
ding  aspect  to  deceive,  or  carry  on  an  intrigue,  of  which  it  is  almost 
an  effectual  cloak. 

I  never  could  behold  these  dresses  without  considering  them  as  an 
emblem  of  the  wretched  condition  of  domestic  society  in  this  far- 
famed  city. 

The  saya  and  manta  were  originally  intended  as  a  retiring,  modest 
dress,  to  mark  reserve,  to  insure  seclusion,  and  to  enable  ladies  to  go 
abroad  without  an  escort.  The  general  term  for  the  wearers  is 
Tapada,  and  they  were  always  held  sacred  from  insult.  Tapada  is 
likewise  applied  to  a  dress  which  is  also  frequently  seen,  viz. :  a  shawl 
worn  over  the  head,  so  as  to  cover  the  nose,  mouth,  and  forehead. 
None  but  the  most  intimate  friend  can  know  the  wearers,  who  fre¬ 
quent  the  theatres  in  this  disguise.  It  is  to  be  regretted,  that  it  is 
now  worn  for  very  different  purposes  from  its  original  intention. 
Intrigues  of  all  kinds  are  said  to  be  carried  on  under  it.  It  enables 


PERU. 


245 


the  wearer  to  mix  in  all  societies,  and  to  frequent  any  place  of 
amusement,  without  being  known,  and,  even  if  suspected  by  her 
husband  or  relatives,  the  law  of  custom  would  protect  her  from 
discovery.  In  this  dress,  it  is  said,  a  wife  will  pass  her  own  husband 
when  she  may  be  walking  with  her  lover,  and  the  husband  may 
make  love  to  his  wife  without  being  aware  it  is  she. 

The  saya  is  a  silk  petticoat,  with  numerous  small  vertical  plaits, 
containing  about  thirty  yards  of  silk,  and  costing  fifty  or  sixty 
dollars.  It  is  drawn  in  close  at  the  bottom  of  the  dress,  so  that 
the  wearer  is  obliged  to  make  very  short  steps  (ten  inches).  It 
is  a  little  elastic,  and  conforms  to  the  shape,  whether  natural  or 
artificial,  from  the  waist  down.  The  manta  is  a  kind  of  cloak,  of 
black  silk.  It  is  fastened  to  the  saya  at  the  waist,  and  brought  over 
the  head  and  shoulders  from  behind,  concealing  every  thing  but 
one  eye,  and  one  hand,  in  which  is  usually  seen  a  cross,  or  whose 
fingers  are  well  ornamented  with  jewels.  Before  the  manta  is 
arranged,  a  French  shawl  of  bright  colours  is  thrown  over  the 
shoulders,  and  brought  between  the  openings  of  the  manta  in  front, 
hanging  down  nearly  to  the  feet.  The  loose  saya  is  also  much  worn  : 
this  is  not  contracted  at  the  bottom,  and  in  walking  has  a  great 
swing  from  side  to  side. 

The  walk  of  the  Lima  ladies  is  graceful  and  pretty,  and  they 
usually  have  small  feet  and  hands. 

The  houses  are  built  of  sun-burnt  brick,  cane,  and  small  timber. 
All  those  of  the  better  class  have  small  balconies  to  the  second  story. 
Most  of  the  houses  are  of  two  stories,  and  they  generally  have  an 
archway  from  the  street,  secured  by  a  strong  portal,  leading  into  an 
open  court.  The  lower,  or  ground-floor,  is  used  as  store-houses, 
stables,  &c.  This  peculiar  manner  of  building  is  intended  as  a 
security  against  the  effects  of  earthquakes.  The  housetops  are  a 
depository  for  all  kinds  of  rubbish,  and  the  accumulation  of  dust  is 
great.  The  staircase  leading  to  the  upper  story  is  generally  hand¬ 
some,  and  decorated  with  fresco  paintings,  which  are,  however,  far 
below  mediocrity.  This  style  of  building  is  well  adapted  to  the 
climate. 

The  Portales  or  Arcades  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  for  the 
stranger.  He  is  there  sure  at  all  hours  to  see  more  of  life  in  Lima 
than  at  any  other  place.  They  are  built  on  two  sides  of  the  Plaza. 
The  ground-floor  is  occupied  as  shops,  where  all  kinds  of  dry-goods 

62 


VOL.  I. 


246 


PERU. 


and  fancy  articles  are  sold.  Between  the  columns,  next  the  Plaza, 
are  many  lace  and  fringe-workers,  &c. ;  and  without  these  again 
are  sundry  cooks,  fresco-sellers,  &c.,  who  are  frying  savoury  cakes 
and  fish  for  their  customers,  particularly  in  the  morning  and  late  in 
the  evening. 

The  Arcades  are  about  five  hundred  feet  long,  well  paved  with 
small  stones,  interlaid  with  the  knuckle-bones  of  sheep,  which  pro¬ 
duces  a  kind  of  mosaic  pavement,  and  makes  known  the  date  of  its 
being  laid  down  as  1799.  This  place  for  hours  every  day  is  the  great 
resort,  and  one  has  a  full  insight  to  every  store,  as  they  are  all  doors, 
and  consequently  quite  exposed  to  their  remotest  corner.  The  second 
story  is  occupied  as  dwellings. 

The  Palace  of  the  Viceroy  occupies  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza. 
The  lower  part  of  it  is  a  row  of  small  shops,  principally  tinkers  and 
smallware  dealers.  On  the  east  side  is  the  Archbishop’s  Palace  and 
the  Cathedral. 

The  fountain  in  the  centre  of  the  Plaza  is  a  fine  piece  of  work,  and 
was  erected,  according  to  the  inscription,  in  1600,  by  Don  Garcia 
Sarmiento  Sotomayer,  the  Viceroy  and  Captain-General  of  the 
kingdom. 

“  El  que  bebe  de  la  pila  sequenda  in  Lima,”  is  the  usual  saying. 

“  He  that  drinks  of  the  fountain  will  not  leave  Lima.” 

The  Cathedral  is  a  remarkable  building,  not  only  from  its  size,  but 
its  ornaments.  Most  of  the  decorations  are  in  bad  taste,  and  I  should 
imagine  its  former  riches  in  the  metals  and  precious  stones  have 
contributed  chiefly  to  its  celebrity.  Certainly  those  ornaments  which 
are  left  cannot  be  much  admired. 

Its  great  altar,  composed  of  silver,  might  as  well  be  of  lead  or 
pewter,  for  all  the  show  it  makes.  In  a  chapel  on  one  side  of  the 
building,  there  is  a  collection  of  portraits  of  the  Archbishops.  They 
are  good  faces,  well  painted,  and  all  are  there  but  the  one  who  at  the 
breaking  out  of  the  revolution,  proved  faithful  to  his  sovereign  and 
the  Spanish  cause.  They  all  have  had  the  honour,  except  him, 
to  be  interred  in  niches,  in  the  crypt,  under  the  great  altar.  Many 
of  the  coffins  are  open,  exposing  the  dried-up  remains  of  the  saints, 
clothed  in  leather  jackets  and  shoes,  which  the  sacristan  made  no 
difficulty  about  disposing  of  for  a  trifle.  Two  skulls  and  a  hand 
were  obtained.  There  is  some  good  carving  about  the  choir  of  the 
Cathedral. 


PERU. 


247 


A  hospital  is  attached  to  this  church.  A  novel  sort  of  hearse  was 
seen  employed  here,  with  four  drawers  as  temporary  coffins. 


HOSPITAL  HEARSE. 


The  market  of  Lima  is  kept  in  an  open  square.  It  is  a  strange 
place  to  visit,  and  the  scene  that  is  witnessed  there  cannot  fail  to 
amuse  the  stranger.  It  is  well  supplied,  and  many  purchasers  fre¬ 
quent  it.  There  are  no  stalls,  and  mats  are  used  in  their  stead.  The 
meat  is  laid  on  them  in  rows,  and  the  vegetables  heaped  up  in  piles. 
Some  of  the  piles  consist  of  only  one  kind,  but  they  are  generally  all 
mixed  together.  The  meat,  as  at  Callao,  is  cut  with  the  grain,  and 
into  small  pieces,  to  suit  the  purchasers ;  and  poultry  is  cut  up  in  a 
similar  manner.  But  what  will  most  attract  a  stranger’s  notice,  are 
the  cooking  establishments.  These  are  in  great  request ;  stews,  fries, 
and  olla-podridas,  are  in  constant  preparation  by  some  brawny  dame, 
who  deals  out,  with  much  gravity  and  a  business-like  air,  the  small 
pieces  to  the  hungry  Indians  who  stand  by  waiting  for  their  turn. 
The  fried  dishes,  seemed  to  claim  their  preference,  if  one  could  judge 
by  the  number  in  waiting.  The  expertness  of  the  woman  who  offi¬ 
ciated  was  truly  wonderful,  twisting  and  twirling  the  dough  in  her 
hand,  placing  it  upon  a  stick,  dipping  it  in  the  hot  oil,  and  slipping 
it  as  soon  as  cooked  dexterously  into  the  dish  for  her  customers. 
Then  again  was  a  frier  of  pancakes  close  by,  equally  expert.  The 
variety  of  dishes  cooking  was  surprising,  and  those  who  fried  fish 
exhibited  undoubted  proofs  of  their  freshness,  by  consigning  them  to 
the  pan  before  they  had  ceased  to  live. 

I  was  surprised  at  the  variety  of  fish,  meats,  vegetables,  and  fruits ; 
the  latter  particularly.  These  were  in  season,  and  included  oranges, 
cherimoyers,  pomegranates,  paltas,  plantains,  bananas,  papaws,  grana- 
dillas,  apples,  figs,  and  ananas. 


248 


PERU. 


The  above  are  the  usual  articles  crowded  into  the  market,  but  were 
I  to  stop  here,  one  half  would  not  be  told.  All  sorts  of  goods,  jewelry, 
cottons,  woollens,  laces,  hardware,  linen  fabrics,  handkerchiefs,  shoes, 
slippers,  hats,  &c.,  are  hawked  about  by  pedlers  with  stentorian  lungs, 
who,  with  the  lottery-venders,  with  tickets,  ink-horn,  and  pen,  selling 
the  tickets  in  the  name  of  the  Holy  Virgin  and  all  the  saints,  make 
an  uproar  that  one  can  have  little  idea  of,  without  mixing  in,  or 
witnessing  it. 

The  convent  of  San  Francisco  occupies  six  or  seven  acres  of 
ground.  In  its  days  of  prosperity  it  must  have  been  a  magnificent 
establishment.  Its  chapels  are  very  rich  in  gilding,  carved  work, 
&c.,  and  the  cloisters  are  ornamented  with  beautiful  fountains  and 
flower-gardens.  Part  of  it  is  now  occupied  by  the  soldiers  as 
barracks,  and  their  muskets  are  stacked  on  the  altar  of  one  of  its 
chapels.  It  has  long  since  been  stripped  of  its  riches  and  deserted, 
but  it  seems  once  to  have  possessed  all  that  wealth,  luxury,  and  taste 
could  effect  or  suggest.  The  good  Father  Anculus,  who  showed  the 
building,  was  shrewd  and  obliging.  The  gallery  of  paintings  con¬ 
tains,  it  is  said,  many  fine  Murillos.  The  remains  of  its  former 
splendour,  even  now,  justifies  what  Father  Fefiillee  asserted,  that 
there  was  nothing  of  the  kind  to  compare  with  it  in  Europe.  There 
are  but  few  friars  here  at  present,  but  it  is  said  to  have  formerly  main¬ 
tained  five  hundred,  living  in  the  greatest  luxury  and  licentiousness. 
The  most  remarkable  object  in  the  church,  was  the  shrine  and  image 
of  a  black  Virgin  Mary,  with  a  white  infant  Saviour  in  her  arms. 

The  public  library  is  composed  of  rare  and  valuable  books,  both  in 
French  and  Spanish,  taken  from,  the  Jesuits’  College  and  convents. 
They  are  in  good  order,  and  among  them  are  many  manuscripts, 
which  are  beautifully  illuminated.  The  librarian,  a  young  priest, 
deserves  our  thanks  for  his  attention  and  civility. 

The  public  museum  has  been  but  lately  commenced.  It  contains 
a  collection  of  curious  Peruvian  antiquities,  some  native  birds,  and 
the  portraits  of  all  the  Viceroys,  from  Pizarro  down.  At  the  cabildos, 
or  city  hall,  are  to  be  seen  some  of  the  archives  of  Lima,  kept  until 
recently  in  good  order.  Many  signatures  of  the  old  Viceroys  and 
Governors  are  quite  curious ;  among  others,  that  of  Pizarro  is  shown. 
As  few  of  them  could  write,  they  adopted  the  Rubrica,  made  by 
placing  the  finger  of  the  left  hand  and  making  the  flourish  on  each 
side  of  it,  the  clerk  filling  in  the  name.  This  method  has  since  been 


PERU. 


249 


generally  adopted  among  the  South  Americans,  in  signing  official 
documents,  being  considered  full  as  binding  as  if  the  name  was 
written. 


The  book  in  which  the  signatures  were  written,  was  entitled  : 

LIBRO  1°  DE  LOS  CABILDOS 
DE  ESTA  CIUDAD  DE  LOS  REYES, 

QUE  CORMIENZA, 

EL  ANO  DE 
1534. 

This  would  make  it  appear  that  the  city  was  founded  a  year  before 
the  date  given  in  Herrera,  Garcilaso,  Calancha,  Montalvo,  and  others, 
who  dispute  about  the  day  of  the  month,  without  having  regard  to 
the  year.  This  book  bears  evidence  that  the  municipality  was  orga¬ 
nized  a  year  prior  to  that  given  by  them  as  the  year  in  which  the 
city  was  founded,  and  shows  that  they  have  made  a  chronological 
error  as  to  the  year ;  but  very  little  doubt  can  exist  that  the  city 
must  have  been  founded  before  the  municipality  existed. 

The  theatre  is  a  handsome  building,  although  much  out  of  repair. 
It  was  brilliantly  lighted  the  night  we  visited  it,  and  was  crowded 
with  numerous  officers  in  full  uniform.  Among  them  were  many 
Chilians  of  rank.  The  ladies  in  the  boxes  were  in  full  costume,  and 
made  a  great  display  of  jewels.  In  the  parterre  there  were  many 
“tapadas.”  The  horrors  of  the  Inquisition  formed  a  prominent  part 
of  the  subject  of  the  play.  For  the  performance  I  cannot  say  much. 

Near  the  Alameda,  on  the  north  side  of  the  city,  is  a  large  oblong- 
enclosure  of  nearly  eight  acres,  with  thick  stone  walls,  and  a  large 
gateway  at  each  end.  It  was  intended  for  a  naval  school,  and  theatre 
to  exhibit  sea-fights.  It  contains  large  reservoirs,  which  were  in¬ 
tended  to  be  filled  with  water  from  the  Rimac,  and  to  have  possessed 
a  tiny  fleet,  some  of  which  it  is  said  were  actually  constructed. 
This  was  a  favourite  project  with  one  of  the  last  Viceroys,  and  a 

63 


VOL.  i. 


250 


PERU. 


more  absurd  one  could  scarcely  have  been  conceived.  The  water 
is  now  used  for  a  much  better  purpose,  namely,  to  turn  the  machi¬ 
nery  of  some  adjacent  mills. 

There  are  three  classes  of  inhabitants,  viz. :  whites,  Indians,  and 
negroes.  The  union  of  the  two  first  produces  the  cholo,  of  the 
two  last,  the  zambo,  and  of  the  first  and  last,  the  mulatto.  The 
Spaniards,  or  whites,  are  a  tall  race,  particularly  the  females.  They 
have  brown  complexions,  but  occasionally  a  brilliant  colour,  black 
hair  and  eyes.  Some  of  them  are  extremely  beautiful.  The  cholos 
are  shorter,  but  well  made,  and  have  particularly  small  feet  and  hands. 
All  classes  of  people  are  addicted  to  the  smoking  of  cigars,  even  in 
carriages  and  at  the  dinner-table.  It  does  not  seem  to  be  considered 
by  any  one  as  unpleasant,  and  foreigners  have  adopted  the  custom. 

The  cholo  women  partake  of  the  dark  brown  skin  of  the  Indian, 
have  low  figures,  short  round  faces,  high  cheek  bones,  good  teeth,  and 
small  hands  and  feet.  Their  whole  figure  is  robust  in  the  extreme. 

There  does  not  appear  to  exist  any  accurate  account  of  the  popula¬ 
tion  of  Peru,  but  it  is  generally  believed  to  have  decreased,  particularly 
the  whites  and  negroes.  The  best  information  gives  but  little  over  a 
million  inhabitants,  viz. :  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  thousand 
whites ;  natives  and  cholos,  eight  hundred  thousand ;  with  ninety 
thousand  negroes  and  ranchos,  of  whom  about  thirty-five  thousand 
are  slaves.  This  does  not  vary  much  from  the  number  given  by  the 
geographies  forty  years  ago.  The  country  appears,  from  all  accounts, 
not  only  to  have  decreased  in  population,  but  to  have  diminished  in 
wealth  and  productiveness.  A  much  less  proportion  of  the  soil  is 
cultivated  than  under  the  “  Children  of  the  Sun.” 

There  are  half  a  dozen  newspapers  published  in  Lima,  two  of  these 
daily.  They  are,  like  the  Spanish,  small  sheets.  They  have  a  good 
deal  of  control  over  public  opinion.  Few  or  no  advertisements  are 
seen  in  them.  These  are  deemed  unnecessary  in  Lima,  and  all  the 
amusements,  such  as  the  theatre,  cockfighting,  &c.,  are  placarded  on 
the  portals.  A  high  price  is  asked  for  these  papers. 

On  the  30th  of  May  there  was  a  grand  procession,  on  the  festival 
of  Corpus  Christi.  It  was  preceded  by  a  party  of  negroes,  dressed  in 
the  most  gaudy  colours,  singing,  dancing,  and  keeping  time  to  a 
native  tune,  somewhat  like  Mumbo  Jumbo,  to  testify  their  joy  that 
the  blessings  of  Christianity  had  reached  them.  Then  followed  some 
priests,  bearing  lamps  covered  with  artificial  flowers,  and  swinging 
censers.  Next  came  the  shrines  of  the  Virgin  and  saints,  covered 


PERU. 


251 


with  tinsel  and  gold,  mounted  on  large  pedestals,  and  borne  on  the 
shoulders  of  men.  After  this  came  the  host,  and  on  its  passing  every 
one  uncovered  and  kneeled  down.  Then  came  the  military,  who  were 
all  out,  and  offered  us  a  fine  opportunity  of  viewing  the  recruits,  the 
greater  proportion  of  whom  were  Indians.  The  government  had 
been  ferreting  out  the  Indians  in  a  manner  hitherto  unpractised. 
There  was  much  mixed  blood  among  the  Peruvian  soldiers,  cholos, 
zambos,  and  some  few  negroes,  while  the  Chilian  troops  had  very 
little.  Among  the  Chilians,  the  regiment  of  Portales  was  pointed 
out,  which  had  left  Chili  six  hundred  strong,  and  was  now  reduced  to 
four  hundred. 

During  my  stay  at  Lima,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  an  introduction  to 
Mr.  Mathews,*  whose  researches  in  natural  history  are  so  well 
known.  Combined  with  his  being  a  good  naturalist,  he  has  great 
talent  as  an  artist.  His  portfolio  contained  many  beautiful  drawings 
of  plants,  flowers,  and  birds,  from  beyond  the  Cordilleras.  He  owns 
an  estate  of  thirty  miles  square,  at  the  foot  of  the  eastern  slope  of  the 
Cordilleras,  for  which  I  think  he  had  paid  one  thousand  dollars.  He 
is  married  to  a  woman  of  the  country,  is  extremely  enthusiastic  in 
his  researches,  and  has  lately  recovered  some  of  the  unpublished 
manuscripts  of  Ruiz  and  Pavon. 

There  are  several  small  manufactories  of  gold  lace,  &c.,  but  nearly 
all  the  goods  sold  and  consumed  in  the  country  are  foreign.  Lima  is 
the  great  retail  place.  There  has  been  lately  set  up  a  manufactory 
of  glass,  but  too  recently  to  judge  of  its  success.  The  mechanical 
employments  are  numerous,  but  all  are  in  a  rude  state.  When  it  is 
considered  that  Lima  was  founded  nearly  a  century  before  the  settle¬ 
ment  of  our  own  country,  it  shows  a  marked  difference  in  favour  of 
the  enterprise,  &c.,  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race. 

On  St.  John’s  day,  (24th  of  June,)  the  patron  saint  of  Lima,  a 
great  festival  among  the  lower  classes — the  cholos,  natives,  zambos, 
and  blacks — takes  place.  It  is  held  in  the  valley  of  Amancaes,  about 
three  miles  north  of  the  city.  Previous  to  the  day,  a  number  of  tents 
and  booths  are  erected  in  the  valley,  which  is  about  half  a  mile  long, 
and  one-third  of  a  mile  wide.  These  are  decked  out  with  flags  and 
banners.  There  are  tents  for  refreshments,  strong  drinks,  dancing, 
gambling,  &c.,  in  every  direction. 


*  In  the  death  of  this  gentleman  science  has  lost  one  of  her  most  zealous  and  enthusi¬ 
astic  labourers. 


On  tlie  road  leading  to  this  scene  are  erected  shrines  of  the  saint, 
where  all  who  pass  are  expected  to  pay  their  contributions. 

On  this  day  every  horse  and  vehicle  in  Lima  are  engaged,  and  at 
exorbitant  rates.  The  whole  road  leading  to  the  valley  is  crowded 
from  an  early  hour  in  the  morning.  The  higher  classes  generally 
frequent  it  early  and  return  soon,  while  those  of  the  middle  and 
lower  classes  continue  to  keep  it  up  until  a  late  hour.  Every  one 
is  decked  with  the  dowers  of  the  Pancratium  Amancaes,  which  grows 
in  great  abundance  in  the  place  where  the  festival  is  held,  and  the 
decoration  extends  even  to  the  horses  and  mules,  as  well  as  to  the 
booths  and  vehicles.  As  the  day  advances  the  crowd  increases.  No 
4th  of  July  in  our  own  country  could  equal  the  uproarious  drunken¬ 
ness  that  ensues.  Dancing  is  the  favourite  amusement.  The  dance 
in  which  they  most  delight  is  a  national  one,  called  the  samacueca, 
and  no  words  can  give  an  idea  of  its  vulgarity  and  obscenity.  I 
think  it  a  happy  circumstance  that  it  is  confined  to  this  country. 
One  Amancaes’  day  would  upturn  a  whole  year  of  morals.  As 
intoxication  ensues  it  goes  to  extreme  lengths.  Italia  (or  rather 
pisco,)  is  pledged  to  every  one,  and  many  are  seen  with  bottle  and 


PERU. 


253 


glass  passing  about,  and  pledging  happiness  and  prosperity,  in  the 
hope  of  getting  a  small  reward.  The  music  to  which  they  dance 
consists  of  a  small  guitar,  accompanied  with  the  voice,  and  beating 
of  time ;  the  time  is  quite  monotonous,  somewhat  resembling  the 
Spanish  seguidilla.  The  crowd  is  great,  consisting  of  cholos, 
zambos,  negroes,  and  whites,  variously  dressed  and  jumbled  toge¬ 
ther, — some  singing,  some  begging,  fighting,  swearing,  laughing ; 
no  order,  all  confusion.  This  is  the  centre  of  the  fray.  On  the 
outskirts  are  seen  groups  of  the  better  classes,  sitting  down  to  their 
pic-nics. 

The  acting  President  and  Governor  of  Lima,  Lafuente  and  staff, 
honoured  the  place  with  their  presence,  to  please  the  people.  He  did 
not,  however,  appear  to  receive  any  honours,  nor  was  his  arrival 
greeted  with  marks  of  approbation  or  enthusiasm.  Towards  evening, 
when  the  inebriated  mass  is  returning,  the  great  sport  of  the  day 
occurs.  The  cholo  women,  who  ride  astride,  are  remarkably  good 
horsewomen,  and  extremely  expert  in  managing  their  horses.  Their 
dress  is  peculiar :  a  large  broad-brimmed  hat,  with  flowing  ribands  of 
gay  colours,  short  spencer  or  jacket  of  silk,  a  gaudy  calico  or  painted 
muslin  skirt,  silk  stockings,  blue,  pink,  or  white  satin  shoes,  and  over 
the  whole  is  sometimes  worn  a  white  poncho.  Large  wooden 
stirrups,  ornamented  with  silver,  numerous  pillions,  a  saddle-cloth, 
and  richly  ornamented  bridle,  all  decked  with  amancaes,  form  the 
caparison  of  the  steeds. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  confusion  of  the  return  of  this  great 
throng,  moving  over  a  dusty  road,  shouting  and  racing.  The  cholo 
women  are  always  on  the  lead,  and  actively  engaged  in  taking  care 
of  their  drunken  partners,  who  are  frequently  seen  mounted  behind 
them,  with  their  faces  flushed  from  the  effects  of  pisco,  forming  an 
odd  contrast  to  the  beautiful  yellow^  flowers  that  adorn  their  hats. 
The  great  feat  of  the  women  who  ride  single,  is  to  unhorse  their 
companions,  which  they  frequently  succeed  in  doing,  to  the  great 
amusement  and  sport  of  the  pedestrians,  and  the  discomfiture  of  their 
male  associates.  They  are  seen  while  at  full  gallop  to  stop  suddenly, 
whirl  round  two  or  three  times,  and  go  off  again  at  full  speed, 
covering  themselves  and  the  bystanders  with  dust.  Just  before 
reaching  the  city,  the  road  is  lined  with  vehicles,  not  unlike  our  cabs, 
in  which  are  seated  ladies  in  full  costume 

The  Alameda,  as  well  as  the  streets  leading  into  it,  is  crowded  on 
this  occasion  with  all  the  fashion  of  the  city.  Though  the  crowd 

64 


VOL.  I. 


254 


PERU 


would  lead  to  the  belief  that  every  body  was  abroad,  yet  the  doors 
and  windows  are  filled  with  heads,  more  or  less  decorated  with 
amancaes.  This  is  a  festival  nowhere  surpassed  in  drunkenness  and 
uproar. 

Most  of  the  buildings  in  Lima  have  suffered  more  or  less  from 
earthquakes.  It  was  the  season  of  earthquakes  during  our  stay,  and 
three  were  felt.  Some  of  our  gentlemen  complained  of  a  sickening 
sensation  during  the  first.  It  did  not,  however,  do  much  damage. 
The  second  took  place  on  the  5th  of  June,  and  was  sensibly  felt; 
a  third  was  experienced  on  the  10th  of  June,  with  a  continued 
shaking  of  the  walls  and  floors.  The  last  was  reported  as  having 
been  more  severe  to  the  northward.  At  lea,  an  official  statement 
reported  that  about  one  thousand  jars  of  pisco  had  been  broken. 
They  are  usually  set  up  on  end,  in  contact  with  each  other,  and 
contain  from  seven  to  ten  gallons  each.  It  is  truly  surprising  how 
long  the  churches  have  stood,  with  their  lofty  towers.  Curious 
effects  have  been  produced  in  some  places.  Two  conical  adobe  caps 
of  the  Franciscan  Convent  have  been  shifted  from  their  places ;  one 
as  if  by  a  rotary  motion  or  force  apparently  in  a  direction  from  left 
to  right ;  the  other  is  turned  half  round,  and  seems  ready  to  fall. 
Another  instance  was  noted  at  the  gateway  of  the  naval  school  before 
spoken  of.  A  large  block  has  been  turned  one-fourth  round,  while 
those  under  it  remain  in  place. 

These  adobe  blocks  have  generally  a  large  iron  rod  running 
through  them.  A  representation  in  the  annexed  figure  of  the  latter 
is  given. 


GATEWAY  OF  THE  NAVAL  SCHOOL. 


With  the  name  of  Peru  the  want  of  moisture  is  generally  asso¬ 
ciated.  The  general  impression  is  that  it  never  rains  there.  This, 


PERU. 


255 


however,  is  far  from  being  strictly  true,  except  in  certain  parts  of 
it.  Were  it  not,  however,  for  irrigation  by  the  mountain  streams, 
a  great  portion  of  Peru  would  certainly  become  nearly  a  desert. 
Indeed  the  upland  is  so  now,  not  yielding  any  herbage  whatever 
until  the  pasture  region  of  the  Cordilleras  is  reached.  We  are 
not  to  imagine,  however,  that  the  atmosphere  is  very  clear,  or  that 
sunshine  always  prevails.  It  is  extremely  difficult  to  get  a  clear 
day.  Father  Fetiillee  has  put  upon  record,  more  than  a  century 
ago,  that  the  heavens  were  generally  obscured.  I  can  bear  testimony 
to  the  truth  of  this  remark,  for  although  a  glimpse  of  the  sun  was 
usually  had  some  time  during  the  day,  yet  it  was  almost  as  difficult 
to  get  equal  altitudes  at  Callao  during  our  stay  as  it  was  at  Terra  del 
Fuego. 

The  dew  (almozo)  of  Lima  is  never  so  great  as  to  produce  running 
water,  yet  it  is  more  like  rain  than  a  Scotch  mist. 

The  peculiarity  of  their  being  no  rain,  has  been  accounted  for  in 
several  ways,  but  not  to  me  satisfactorily.  The  prevailing  cold  and 
dry  winds  from  the  southward  sweep  over  the  western  shores  of  the 
continent;  having  a  great  capacity  for  moisture,  they  absorb  it  as 
they  advance  to  the  northward,  from  every  thing ;  on  reaching  the 
latitude  of  12°  S.,  they  cease,  and  having  become  saturated,  now  rise 
to  a  sufficient  height,  where  they  are  condensed  by  the  cold  strata,  and 
again  deposited  on  the  mountains  in  almost  constant  rains.  This  will 
account  for  the  aridity  in  the  high  Cordilleras  of  Chili,  as  well  as  for 
the  existence  of  the  desert  of  Atacama,  and  the  want  of  rain  on  the 
coast  of  Upper  Peru;  and  at  the  same  time,  for  the  moisture  of  the 
high  Cordilleras  of  Peru,  which  will  be  shortly  spoken  of.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  our  parties  on  the  Cordilleras  of  Chili  found  the 
aridity  to  increase  on  ascending,  to  the  very  edge  of  the  perpetual 
snow,  and  all  the  plants  were  of  a  thorny  character. 

The  records  of  Lima  mention  the  falling  of  rain  only  four  times  in 
the  eighteenth  century,  and  the  occurrence  of  thunder  and  lightning 
an  equal  number  of  times.  But  this  applies  to  a  small  part  of  Peru 
only,  namely,  the  country  bordering  the  coast,  some  fifty  or  sixty 
miles  in  width,  around  Lima.  It  will  be  seen  that  our  party  who 
visited  the  interior,  when  at  the  height  of  ten  thousand  feet,  entered 
a  region  subject  to  rain,  and  on  the  crest  of  the  mountains  the  soil 
was  kept  perfectly  moist  by  the  frequent  snows  and  rain. 

Mr.  Bartlett,  our  Charge  d’ Affaires,  gave  me  the  range  of  the  ther¬ 
mometer  at  Lima  throughout  the  year,  as  being  from  60°  to  85°  ; 


256 


P  ERD. 


during  our  stay,  which  was  in  their  winter  months  of  May  and  June, 
the  range  was  from  65°  to  69°. 

Fire  is  not  used  often,  but  from  the  continual  dampness  there  is  a 
cold  and  clammy  feeling,  that  is  exceedingly  uncomfortable  and  pre¬ 
judicial  to  health.  Lima  has  certainly  the  reputation  of  being  a 
healthy  place — how  obtained  I  know  not — but  it  certainly  does  not 
deserve  it. 

The  interments  have  annually  averaged  over  three  thousand  five 
hundred,  in  a  population  amounting  by  the  best  accounts  to  no  more 
than  forty-five  thousand.  Many  of  these  deaths  are  those  of  strangers, 
and  the  climate  has  always  been  fatal  to  the  Indians. 

During  our  stay  at  Callao,  the  temperature  of  the  air  varied  from 
57°  to  63°.  On  July  4th,  it  stood  at  the  same  point  in  both  places. 
The  temperature  of  the  Rimac  on  the  11th  of  June,  was  69°  to  71°; 
on  the  4th  of  July,  64°. 

The  Rimac  derives  its  waters  exclusively  from  the  snows  of  the 
Cordilleras.  It  is  a  mountain  torrent  throughout  its  whole  course. 
The  quantity  of  water  in  it  is  small.  The  width  at  its  mouth  is  about 
thirty  feet,  and  one  foot  deep.  It  has  not  sufficient  force  to  break  a 
passage  through  the  beach  to  the  sea,  and  the  water  filters  through 
the  pebbly  soil. 

In  Peru,  when  the  land  is  irrigated,  it  is  one  continued  vegetation 
throughout  the  year.  Harvests  are  gathered  in  every  season,  and 
flowers  and  fruits  may  be  seen  at  the  same  time.  On  the  east  side  of 
the  Cordilleras  the  harvest  takes  place  about  the  middle  of  June. 
Tarma  and  Jauja  are  the  first  cultivated  districts.  The  “  mon tanas,” 
as  they  call  the  forests,  are  situated  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Andes. 
Their  crest  is  estimated  to  be  thirty  or  forty  leagues  from  the  coast, 
and  it  is  about  fifteen  leagues  farther  to  the  montanas.  The  ther¬ 
mometer  during  the  jaunt  to  the  Cordilleras  ranged  from  50°  to  the 
freezing  point  of  Fahrenheit. 

During  our  visit,  the  Chilian  troops  were  in  possession  of  the 
country,  and  Lima  was  garrisoned  by  them.  They  were  a  sickly 
and  worn-out  body  of  men,  the  tertiana  prevailing  to  a  great  extent 
among  them.  They  were  apparently  well  clad,  new  clothing  having 
been  issued  to  them  at  the  expense  of  the  Peruvian  treasury.  They 
were  all,  I  was  told,  extremely  anxious  to  return  to  Chili.  Although 
the  nominal  power  was  in  the  President,  Gamarra,  or  the  acting 
Governor,  Lafuente,  until  his  arrival,  yet  Bulnes  commanded  and 
watched  over  their  proceedings.  The  Peruvians  are  to  all  intents 


PERU. 


257 


and  purposes  a  conquered  people,  although,  they  profess  to  think  the 
Chilians  their  friends,  and  say  that  the  war  was  only  against  Santa 
Cruz  and  his  policy.  No  favourable  accounts  can  now  be  given  of 
the  state  of  Peru.  A  want  of  confidence  exists  every  where.  The 
government  is  bankrupt  in  principle  and  funds.  The  tenure  of 
property  is  uncertain,  and  oppression,  extortion,  and  want  of  principle 
have  brought  the  country  to  the  verge  of  ruin.  The  people  are 
harassed  by  the  frequent  changes,  and  the  government,  military,  and 
constantly  changing,  gives  rise  to  all  kinds  of  disorder.  This  is  to 
be  imputed  to  the  ambition  of  the  various  rulers  or  generals,  who 
endeavour  to  keep  old  and  little  understood  controversies  in  a  constant 
state  of  agitation,  for  their  own  benefit.  Revolution  is  the  order  of 
the  day.  One  broke  out  again  in  Payta  a  few  days  before  we  sailed, 
and  Peru  was  raising  troops  to  attack  Bolivia. 

Their  manner  of  recruiting  the  army  is  not  unlike  the  press-gangs 
of  England.  They  scour  the  country  far  and  near  for  recruits,  and 
if  not  obtained,  compel  every  poor  Indian  met  with,  to  serve  against 
his  will.  Agriculture,  and  every  other  kind  of  honest  industry,  has 
fallen  into  disrepute,  if  not  into  entire  neglect,  and  the  whole  country 
is  left  in  a  continued  state  of  anarchy  and  confusion.  Yet,  extraor¬ 
dinary  as  it  may  seem,  one  would  never  suspect,  from  the  outward 
appearance  of  its  inhabitants,  that  the  country  could  be  in  such  a 
state.  All  their  pastimes  go  on  as  usual.  Among  these,  the  festivals 
of  the  church  are  most  conspicuous ;  for  they  yet  claim  the  outward 
respect  of  all,  both  high  and  low,  and  constitute  the  only  bond  that 
holds  society  together.  All  are  subservient  to  the  rites  of  the  church. 
Even  the  Chilian  general  officers  dismount  and  kneel  on  the  passing 
of  the  procession,  and  all  the  different  guards,  with  their  officers,  not 
only  give  the  military  salute,  but  also  drop  on  their  knees. 

I  was  much  struck  with  the  sight  of  a  mistress  and  her  slave,  who 
had  followed  her  to  the  cathedral,  kneeling  on  the  same  piece  of  cloth, 
telling  their  beads,  and  saying  their  prayers  together.  This  I  was 
told  was  quite  common.  It  seemed  a  tacit  acknowledgment  that 
religion  reduced  all  to  the  same  level.  From  what  I  could  learn,  the 
slaves  are  treated  with  great  kindness. 

During  our  stay  here,  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  one  of  the 
marines,  Benjamin  Holden,  who  had  been  transferred  but  a  few  days 
from  the  Relief  to  the  Peacock.  He  was  interred  at  San  Lorenzo. 
One  of  the  servants  on  hoard  the  Peacock,  a  boy,  was  discovered  to 
have  the  small-pox.  He  was  immediately  removed  to  a  tent  at  San 

65 


VOL.  I. 


258 


PERU. 


Lorenzo,  and  every  thing  provided  for  him,  until  he  could  be  sent  to 
Lima,  Mr.  Bartlett,  our  consul,  having  procured  the  permission  for 
his  removal  there. 

Every  precaution  against  this  disease  had  been  taken,  by  vaccina¬ 
ting  the  crews  after  leaving  the  United  States. 

I  felt  great  uneasiness  lest  we  might  carry  it  with  us  to  the  Islands, 
where  it  might  spread  among  the  natives,  and  render  our  visit 
ever  memorable  by  the  introduction  of  that  dreadful  scourge.  All 
the  clothing,  and  every  thing  that  had  been  in  any  way  connected 
with  the  sick,  or  his  nurses,  was  destroyed,  in  the  hopes  of  rendering 
us  exempt  from  the  contagion. 


LIMA  HOUSE. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


CONTENTS. 

A  PARTY  FOR  THE  INTERIOR  —  PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  JOURNEY  — PASSPORTS— MR. 
BIGGS  — DEPARTURE  — EFFECT  OF  OFFICIAL  PAPERS— FACE  OF  COUNTRY  — RUINS  OF 
INCA  TOWNS  — PONCHORUA  — CABALLEROS  — CONVOY  OF  SILVER  —  ACCOMMODATIONS  — 
EARTHQUAKE  —  ROUTE  UP  THE  VALLEY  OF  CAXAVILLO— FACE  OF  COUNTRY— ST.  ROSA 
DE  QUIVI— YASO— OBRAJILLO— DIFFICULTIES  IN  PROCURING  MULES— BEAUTY  OF  SITUA¬ 
TION  —  LLAMAS  —  RIOTERS  —  PLUNDERING  OF  INHABITANTS  —  CULNAI  —  LA  VINDA  — 
VEGETATION— MULETEERS  ENCOUNTERED— REACH  THE  CREST  OF  THE  CORDILLERAS— 
CASA  CANCHA— ITS  ACCOMMODATIONS— COOKING  RANGE— SICKNESS  OF  PARTY— SNOW¬ 
STORM  —  ALPAMARCA  —  COMPANY  OF  PERUVIANS  — THEIR  ATTENTIONS  — PROCESS  OF 
AMALGAMATION  OF  ORE— MR.  BEVAN— VISIT  TO  THE  MINE— FACE  OF  THE  MOUNTAIN- 
ROAD— BANOS— HOT  SPRING— BEAUTY  OF  VALLEY— VEGETATION— THREATENED  ATTACK 
OF  A  CONDOR— PORTRAIT— INCIDENTS  RELATING  TO  IT— DESCRIPTION  OF  BANOS— ITS 
HABITATIONS— STATE  OF  HORSES— RETURN  TO  CASA  CANCHA— CHILIAN  CONVOY  FROM 
PASCO— PASCO— MINES— VEINS  OF  ORE— NUMBER  OF  MINES  IN  OPERATION  —  LAWS  IN 
RELATION  TO  SILVER  MINED— DUTIES— HILL  OF  RACO— NEW  SPECULATIONS  IN  1840- 
DIFFICULTIES  IN  PURCHASING  MINES  —  THE  POLITICAL  STATE  OF  THE  COUNTRY 
ADVERSE  TO  THIS  BUSINESS  —  TEMPERATURE  —  BEAUTY  OF  SITUATION  OF  CASA 
CANCHA  — THEIR  DEPARTURE  ON  THEIR  RETURN— LINE  OF  PERPETUAL  SNOW — 
AMMONITE  —  CHICRINE  —  TRAVELLING  PARTIES  —  FRENCHMAN  —  HIS  COMPLIMENTS  — 
CULNAI  —  CULTIVATION  —  HOSPITALITY  —  OBRAJILLO  —  ACCOMMODATIONS  —  WANT  OF 
GALLANTRY  —  GUIDES  —  SETTLEMENT  —  BRIDAL  PARTY  —  YASO  —  ROBBERY  —  YANGA  — 
HOSTESS— ANGELITA— CABALLEROS— RETURN  TO  LIMA— BOTANICAL  REVIEW— GEOLOGI¬ 
CAL  CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY— FLYING-FISH  SENT  TO  PACHACAMAC— LANDING- 
TEMPLE— TOWN— TOMBS— TIIETR  CONTENTS— EMBARKATION— RETURN  TO  CALLAO. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


PERU  —  CONTINUED. 

1  8  39. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  Relief  at  Callao,  Messrs.  Pickering,  Rich, 
Agate  and  Brackenridge,  requested  permission  to  make  a  jaunt  to  the 
Cordilleras  of  Peru,  for  the  purpose  of  making  botanical  collections. 
I  felt  much  gratified  that  this  object  had  been  effected,  although  I 
could  not  but  regret  that  they  were  suffered  to  depart  without  the 
necessary  instruments  for  obtaining  the  altitudes,  which  had  been  put 
on  board  the  Relief  at  Orange  Harbour,  for  that  very  purpose. 

Mr.  Rich  spoke  the  Spanish  language  well,  which  afforded  the 
party  many  facilities  for  overcoming  the  difficulties  that  were  thrown 
in  their  way. 

In  Lima  the  journey  was  considered  as  a  very  serious  undertaking, 
and  likely  to  be  attended  with  much  danger,  from  the  banditti  who 
frequent  the  route  they  intended  to  pass  over, — that  to  the  mines  of 
Pasco.  Through  the  friendly  assistance  of  Mr.  Biggs,  of  the  house 
of  Messrs.  Bartlett  &  Co.,  every  thing  was  made  easy.  By  his 
advice  they  supplied  themselves,  not  only  with  blankets  and  horse- 
furniture,  but  with  all  sorts  of  provisions,  and  particularly  with 
bread,  of  which  they  took  as  much  as  they  could  carry,  notwithstand¬ 
ing  the  country  was  described  as  well  inhabited.  As  a  preliminary 
step,  it  was  necessary  to  provide  themselves  with  passports,  for  which 
they  lost  no  time  in  applying.  After  the  delay  of  a  day,  the  pass¬ 
ports  came  in  the  form  of  a  letter  of  protection,  and  recommendation 
from  Lafuente  himself,  to  the  local  authorities  throughout  all  Peru, 
couched  in  the  most  liberal  terms,  and  treating  the  affair  with  as 
much  importance  as  if  it  was  a  national  one.  It  is  a  regulation  that 
the  names  of  all  who  receive  passports,  shall  be  published  in  the 
official  gazette ;  their  intention,  therefore,  became  known  to  all  Lima. 

66 


VOL  [. 


262 


PERU. 


From  the  few  who  are  gazetted,  it  would  appear  that  but  a  small 
number  travel  into  the  interior,  or  that  the  regulation  is  not  very 
strictly  complied  with. 

The  injunction  to  render  the  party  assistance  in  case  of  need  was 
very  strong,  and  among  other  things  specified  to  be  furnished,  was 
clothing ,  which  was  thought  to  look  somewhat  ominous  in  this 
country  of  banditti.  In  spite  of  the  positive  terms  in  which  the 
passport  was  expressed,  it  was  found  of  little  effect  in  procuring 
them  mules  or  horses ;  and  it  was  not  until  after  much  trouble  and 
disappointment  on  many  sides,  that  horses  were  at  last  obtained  from 
the  post  establishment. 

On  the  16th  May  they  were  ready  to  set  out,  and  were  accom¬ 
panied  for  some  miles  by  Mr.  Biggs,  whose  friendly  advice  and 
assistance  they  had  often,  during  the  jaunt,  to  he  thankful  for.  It 
saved  them  much  inconvenience,  and  was  the  cause  of  their  being 
provided  with  many  little  comforts,  without  which  they  would  have 
suffered. 

Their  proposed  route  was  up  the  valley  of  the  Rio  de  Caxavillo, 
the  river  next  to  the  northward  of  the  Rimac.  Leaving  Lima,  they 
passed  through  the  suburbs  of  San  Lazaro,  at  the  gate  of  which,  and 
for  the  only  time  during  the  journey,  they  were  desired  to  show  their 
passports.  Some  little  difficulty  arose,  and  an  intention  was  expressed 
to  unload  the  baggage-mule  for  examination.  This,  however,  was 
soon  removed  by  the  reading  of  the  passport,  and  the  examination 
ended  in  many  bows,  and  the  repeated  exclamation,  “  Go  on,  go  on ! 
God  speed  you !”  Such  was  the  talismanic  effect  of  an  official  docu¬ 
ment  at  the  period  of  our  visit. 

After  leaving. the  city  their  route  lay  along  the  margin  of  the 
extensive  plain  that  borders  on  the  sea,  at  the  foot  and  over  the  low 
hills  which  skirt  it.  Many  columns  of  dust  and  loose  particles  of 
sand  were  seen  rising  from  the  heated  plain,  by  the  action  of  the 
wind,  forming  vortices  of  considerable  diameter  and  elevation.  Clouds 
of  smoke,  too,  were  visible  in  the  distance,  proceeding,  according  to 
the  information  of  their  guides,  from  the  burning  of  the  cane-brakes. 
The  Peruvian  willow,  so  much  resembling  the  Lombardy  poplar 
in  its  form,  was  much  admired,  and  the  contrast  in  the  landscape 
between  the  barren  clay-coloured  hills  and  the  bright  green  of  the 
irrigated  fields  was  singular. 

At  the  distance  of  three  leagues  from  Lima,  they  passed  through 
the  ruins  of  an  Inca  town,  situated  (as  they  uniformly  found  them 


PERU. 


263 


afterwards)  just  on  the  border  of  the  irrigated  valley.  The  walls  of 
the  town  were  very  thick,  built  of  mud  and  unburnt  brick,  at  right 
angles,  very  much  after  the  modern  manner;  the  hills,  also,  were 
seen  covered  with  the  ruins  of  Indian  buildings,  some  of  them 
resembling  fortifications. 

They  now  turned  up  a  beautiful  valley,  on  the  irrigated  fields  of 
which  were  seen  herds  of  horned  cattle,  horses,  and  goats,  a  proof 
that  the  irrigated  land  is  not  exclusively  used  for  tillage. 

At  six  leagues  from  Lima  they  reached  Ponchorua,  the  first 
stopping-place ;  but  the  party  concluded  to  go  a  league  beyond  it  to 
Caballeros,  where  they  passed  the  night.  They  arrived  there  in 
sufficient  time  to  make  a  short  excursion  to  the  banks  of  the  Rio  de 
Caxavillo,  which  appeared  a  larger  stream  than  the  Rimac. 

Around  Caballeros  are  very  extensive  meadows  and  fields  of  clover. 
The  posada  was  found  occupied,  by  the  guard  and  muleteers  who 
acted  as  a  convoy  of  silver  from  Pasco.  They  gave  up  the  only  room 
in  the  house  for  our  gentlemen,  into  which  they  were  shown,  and 
where  a  good  supper  was  provided  for  them,  while  the  guard  took 
up  their  quarters  in  the  yard.  The  metal,  it  was  observed,  was  in 
large  masses  of  pina,  some  of  them  heavy  enough  for  a  load  for  a 
mule,  and  an  inconvenient  burthen  to  run  away  with. 

They  passed  the  night  on  the  tables  and  rude  seats,  under  cover,  a 
luxury  they  had  not  yet  learned  to  appreciate. 

At  midnight  they  felt  the  shock  of  an  earthquake.  A  distant 
hollow  sound  was  at  first  heard,  which  seemed  to  approach,  in¬ 
creasing  rapidly,  and  before  they  could  spring  to  their  feet  the  house 
was  rolled  and  shaken  as  if  it  had  been  on  an  agitated  sea.  Mr.  Rich 
says  that  it  was  with  difficulty  he  could  hold  himself  on  the  table 
where  he  had  been  lying.  The  natives  of  the  adjoining  huts  ran  out 
into  the  road,  uttering  horrible  shrieks,  striking  their  breasts,  and 
offering  up  prayers  to  the  Holy  Virgin  to  protect  them.  The  shock 
continued  severe  for  forty  seconds,  but  the  phenomenon  lasted  alto¬ 
gether  two  minutes;  it  produced  a  slight  sea-sickness,  which  con¬ 
tinued  for  some  time  afterwards,  and  a  bewildered  sensation,  that 
rendered  it  difficult  to  collect  their  ideas  to  speak.  The  sound 
resembled  that  produced  by  throwing  stones  over  precipices,  so  as 
to  roll  on  hollow  ground  beneath.  This  earthquake  was  the  most 
violent  that  had  been  experienced  for  some  time,  and  was  felt  sen¬ 
sibly  at  Lima  and  through  all  Lower  Peru.  No  material  damage  was 


1 


264  PER  U. 

done,  in  consequence,  according  to  the  people  of  the  country,  of  its 
not  getting  to  the  surface. 

Early  on  the  17th  the  party  set  out  up  the  dry  mountain  valley, 
the  soil  of  which  is  composed  of  stones  and  loose  powdery  earth. 
This  kind  of  ground  continued  for  five  leagues,  with  not  a  drop  of 
water,  nor  was  a  plant  or  bird  collected ;  nothing  was  seen  growing 
but  a  few  Tillandsias.  On  this  route  they  passed  many  crosses, 
marking  the  spots  where  there  had  been  loss  of  life :  a  sight  that  was 
not  calculated  to  excite  pleasing  thoughts,  and  bringing  to  mind  not 
only  the  great  number  of  murders  that  had  taken  place,  but  the 
daily  occurrence  of  attacks  upon  small  parties  of  travellers  by  the 
desperadoes  of  Peru. 

Immediately  on  the  confines  of  this  dreary  waste  is  Yanga,  a 
deserted-looking  place,  but  having  some  good  gardens  and  orchards. 
At  noon  they  reached  Santa  Rosa  de  Quivi,  a  small  place,  where 
they  procured  some  good  fruit.  After  travelling  two  leagues,  they  at 
dark  reached  Yaso,  and  stopped  at  the  postmaster’s  house ;  he  was 
not  at  home,  but  they  were  permitted  to  sleep  in  the  porch,  or 
veranda.  Nothing  edible  was  to  be  found  in  the  village,  except  a 
few  potatoes,  after  supping  on  which  they  disposed  themselves  on 
the  clay  and  stones,  with  their  arms  ready  for  service,  a  precaution 
necessary  at  times,  even  in  the  most  frequented  places,  in  Peru. 

During  the  day,  they  had  been  much  annoyed  by  sand-flies,  and 
fleas  were  as  usual  in  myriads  at  night ;  besides  these,  they  had  a 
few  musquitoes,  but  the  latter  are  seldom  felt  in  Peru. 

The  screaming  of  parrots  during  the  night  had  announced  that 
some  change  had  taken  place  in  the  vegetation.  In  the  morning  they 
found  this  to  be  the  case.  The  land  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town  was 
cultivated,  and  some  good  orchards  and  fields  of  clover  seen;  the 
mountains,  which  had  hitherto  been  gray  with  Tillandsias,  had  now 
assumed  a  greenish  tinge.  Agaves  made  their  appearance  here,  and 
a  few  miles  beyond,  the  hills  became  entirely  green ;  all  showed  that 
a  different  region  had  been  entered.  The  inclined  roofs  of  the  huts 
proved  that  rains  were  experienced,  and  that  it  was  found  necessary 
by  the  inhabitants  to  protect  themselves  from  them. 

The  valley  had  now  become  more  contracted,  and  level  ground  was 
seldom  seen;  the  mountains  increased  in  elevation,  the  roads  and 
scenery  partaking  of  the  character  of  Madeira.  Cascades  were  seen 
springing  from  almost  the  very  summits  of  the  high  peaks ;  cattle  were 


PERU. 


265 


grazing,  and  occasional  cultivated  patches  were  mingled  with  the 
pasture-grounds ;  the  aid  of  irrigation  was  no  longer  necessary ;  and 
the  Cordillera  plants  of  the  Flora  Peruviana,  with  the  vegetation  made 
known  by  Humboldt  and  Bonpland,  were  recognised.  At  noon,  after 
travelling  six  leagues,  they  reached  Obrajillo,  the  rendezvous  of  the 
two  celebrated  Spanish  botanists,  Ruiz  and  Pa  von,  authors  of  the 
Flora  Peruviana. 

There  are  three  towns,  Obrajillo,  Canta,  and  San  Miguel,  about  a 
mile  distant  from  each  other,  said  to  contain  three  or  four  thousand 
inhabitants.  At  Obrajillo,  the  general  to  whom  they  had  letters  of 
introduction,  was  not  at  home;  some  difficulty  in  getting  mules 
occurred  in  consequence,  and  it  was  not  until  much  time  and  patience 
had  been  exhausted,  that  our  gentlemen  understood  the  real  difficulty, 
which  was,  that  the  horses  they  had  brought  from  the  low  country 
were  not  considered  capable  of  standing  the  cold  and  fatigue  of  the 
mountains,  the  owners  at  Lima  having  refused  to  allow  their  mules 
to  cross  the  mountains.  They  were  assisted  in  procuring  mules  and 
guides  by  the  general’s  son. 

Obrajillo,  the  largest  of  the  three  towns,  contains  about  one  hun¬ 
dred  cottages.  It  has  a  stone  church,  with  two  towers,  apparently  of 
some  age,  which  fronts  on  the  open  square.  The  dwellings  are  of 
one  story,  without  floors,  and  almost  without  furniture,  yet  it  is  said 
to  be  the  residence  of  many  wealthy  people.  How  true  this  may  be, 
it  was  impossible  from  appearances  to  determine,  for  the  high  and 
low,  the  rich  and  the  poor,  all  seem  to  live  in  the  same  style. 

The  difficulties  that  occurred  in  procuring  mules  for  their  journey, 
had  delayed  them  so  long  as  to  place  it  out  of  their  power  to  proceed 
before  the  next  day.  The  opportunity  of  visiting  the  environs  was 
taken,  and  a  large  collection  of  plants  was  obtained,  the  annuals 
being  found  in  the  right  season  for  making  collections.  The  cascade 
which  was  seen  as  they  approached,  was  visited,  and  exhibited  a 
picturesque  and  beautiful  appearance,  even  when  it  was  four  miles 
distant. 

At  Obrajillo  there  are  many  nice  gardens  and  fields,  under  a  good 
state  of  cultivation.  The  roadside  itself  looked  like  a  flower-garden, 
and  flowers  of  almost  every  hue  were  seen  on  either  side,  Calceolarias, 
Lobelias,  &c. 

Here  was  the  first  point  where  they  had  met  the  llama  used  as  a 
beast  of  burden ;  the  load  which  they  carry  is  from  seventy  to  ninety 
pounds. 


VOL.  I. 


67 


266 


PERU. 


On  the  19th,  at  an  early  hour,  some  vagabonds,  assuming  the  name 
of  Chilians,  went  the  rounds  of  the  village,  helping  themselves  to 
every  thing  they  desired,  to  the  utter  dismay  of  the  inhabitants,  who 
made  no  resistance.  The  consequence  was,  that  having  neglected 
to  supply  themselves  with  bread  the  evening  before,  they  lost  the 
opportunity  of  doing  it.  This  was  a  serious  inconvenience,  for 
Obrajillo  supplies  the  upper  country  with  bread,  as  Lima  does  the 
lower,  and  it  is  procured  with  difficulty,  except  at  these  two  places. 
Potatoes  were  therefore  taken  as  a  substitute,  though  a  very  incon¬ 
venient  one,  from  their  great  weight  and  bulk. 

They  were  on  their  route  by  six  o’clock,  and  an  hour’s  ride  brought 
them  to  a  spot  where  the  river  formed  a  very  picturesque  rapid,  soon 
after  which  they  entered  into  a  wild  and  romantic  pass  between  steep 
acclivities  and  precipices  of  immense  height. 

At  ten  o’clock  they  reached  Culnai,  a  distance  of  five  leagues;  it 
contains  about  thirty  cottages ;  its  height  is  believed  to  be  ten 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  and  here  cultivation  ceases,  ending  with 
the  potato,  Tropseolum,  Oxalis,  and  Basella.  The  second  region  of 
plants  also  terminates  here,  and  now  ensued  the  “  Paramera,”  or 
pasture  region  of  the  Andes,  avoided  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  lower 
districts  on  account  of  the  cold.  This  third  region  comprises  a  set  of 
plants  which  make  a  gradual  transition  from  those  of  the  second 
region  to  low  alpine  scraggy  bushes,  none  of  which  exceed  two  feet 
in  heio'ht.  The  Paramera  is  remarkable  for  a  dense  sward  of  coarse 

CD 

grass,  and  low  herbaceous  plants,  principally  of  the  order  Composite. 
The  flowers  of  the  latter,  it  was  remarked,  were  particularly  large  in 
proportion  to  the  plant.  These  form  a  rich  pasturage  for  the  flocks 
and  herds,  which  are  seen  feeding  in  the  valleys  and  along  the  sides 
of  the  hills. 

No  cultivation  was  attempted  beyond  Culnai,  and  but  two  species 
of  Cacti  were  met  with  above  this. 

They  had  hitherto  for  the  most  part  followed  a  northerly  direction, 
but  now  they  diverged  more  to  the  northeast.  The  temperature  was 
falling  as  they  ascended,  the  air  was  clear  and  bracing,  and  the 
scenery  as  they  advanced  became  more  interesting,  and  even  sublime. 
To  its  wild  and  precipitous  features  was  now  added  the  high  snowy 
peak  of  La  Yinda  in  the  distance,  and  some  few  spots  of  snow  were 
occasionally  seen  in  places  sheltered  from  the  sun’s  rays.  The  mule- 
path  had  become  narrow,  and  when  they  met  with  mules,  which  was 
often  the  case,  it  became  necessary  to  turn  under  the  rocks,  until  the 


ursr  imt ' 6  ©  m  -r®  jojc  t® 


PERU. 


267 


path  was  clear.  On  one  occasion,  one  of  the  party  allowed  his  mule 
to  take  the  ontside;  the  consequence  was  that  a  muleteer  shoved  mule 
and  rider  several  feet  over  the  bank.  No  injury  was  received,  and 
the  dilemma  went  off  with  a  good  laugh  at  the  fright. 

The  sagacity  of  the  mules  on  these  occasions  is  great.  They 
endeavour  always  to  cling  to  the  wall  side,  and  will  succeed  in  doing 
it,  if  not  prevented  by  the  rider.  Their  caution  is  great  when  they 
apprehend  danger  in  passing  over  steep  places;  the  instant  danger 
was  anticipated,  the  nose  and  fore  feet  were  used  to  ascertain  its 
extent,  which  done,  the  animals  cautiously  proceeded,  and  reached 
the  bottom  with  great  care  and  ease  both  to  the  rider  and  themselves. 

About  three  o’clock  they  had  gained  the  fourth  or  alpine  region, 
where  they  were  met  with  sharp  and  cutting  winds,  accompanied 
with  hail  and  snow,  that  proved  very  uncomfortable  to  their  sunburnt 
faces;  this  was  supposed  to  be  at  an  elevation  of  about  fifteen 
thousand  feet.  Our  gentlemen  now  felt  the  effects  of  the  elevation 
in  headache,  difficulty  of  breathing,  and  excessive  lassitude.  The 
crest  of  the  Cordilleras  is  at  this  place  a  league  in  width,  the  surface 
very  uneven,  containing  small  lakes  without  outlets  sunk  in  deep 
hollows ;  beyond  this  the  streams  which  form  the  extreme  sources 
of  the  Amazon  were  running  to  the  eastward.  After  travelling 
two  leagues  on  a  gentle  descent,  they  arrived  at  Casa  Cancha  about 
dusk. 

Those  of  the  party  who  first  arrived  witnessed  a  fracas  with  the 
cuchillo,  so  often  appealed  to  here  when  a  misunderstanding  occurs ; 
no  injury,  however,  resulted  from  it. 

Casa  Cancha  consists  of  three  huts,  and  is  nothing  more  than  a 
muleteers’  rendezvous ;  the  place  is  in  charge  of  two  women,  who  in 
expression,  if  not  in  form,  might  have  been  taken  for  witches.  The 
accommodations,  if  they  may  be  so  called,  were  an  apartment 
common  to  all  the  inmates,  with  no  fastening  to  the  door  or  windows, 
without  a  fire,  although  the  thermometer  falls  to  the  freezing  point 
at  night,  and  nothing  but  the  hard  ground  to  lie  upon ;  there  is  not  a 
stick  of  wood  nor  any  resinous  Umbelliferse,  as  on  the  Chilian  Andes, 
to  be  had,  and  the  cooking  is  done  with  turf,  when  it  can  be  obtained, 
but  dry  cow-dung  is  most  frequently  used  for  this  purpose.  This  is 
the  only  and  the  best  establishment  the  place  affords;  even  the  first 
females  in  the  country  can  procure  no  better  accommodations,  and 
will  bear  it  for  the  night  with  contentment. 

As  a  special  mark  of  distinction,  a  smaller  apartment  was  assigned 


268 


PERU. 


► 


to  our  gentlemen,  in  a  hut  adjoining  that  in  which  their  supper  was 
cooked,  of  which  they  witnessed  the  preparation.  The  cooking 
range  was  of  peculiar  construction,  and  might  serve  as  a  pattern  for  a 
modern  cuisine.  It  occupied  one  corner  of  the  apartment,  and  appeared 
to  be  convenient  and  well  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  inmates.  The 
vignette  is  a  representation  of  it  and  the  occupant. 


'>KWG  AT  UAfA-  UAKCRA,  1' 


After  a  time  the  fore  quarter  of  mutton  made  its  appearance,  in 
the  hands  of  their  landlady,  scorched  to  a  cinder.  Being  unpro¬ 
vided  with  a  knife,  she  began  to  tear  it  into  small  pieces  with  her 
fingers.  Our  gentlemen  remonstrated,  but  nothing  would  stop  her 
until  nearly  every  morsel  of  it  had  passed  through  her  dirty  hands. 
This,  added  to  her  state  of  intoxication,  caused  some  of  them  to  lose 
their  supper  from  sheer  disgust,  though  all  agreed  that  she  carved  or 
tore  it  into  pieces  in  a  most  dexterous  manner. 

After  supper  they  were  informed  by  their  guides,  in  much  conster¬ 
nation,  that  a  band  of  Chilian  marauders  were  approaching;  the 
whole  establishment  was  in  great  uproar.  The  party,  however, 
proved  to  be  a  convoy.  The  officer  in  charge  was  civil,  and  engaged 
freely  in  conversation  on  the  pending  contest  between  Chili  and  Peru. 

During  the  night  the  party  were  very  much  troubled  with  head¬ 
ache  and  difficulty  in  breathing ;  they  passed  an  uncomfortable  night 


PERU. 


269 


on  the  clay  floor.  The  thermometer  in  the  doorway  stood  in  the 
morning-  at  33°. 

Casa  Cancha  is  in  a  valley  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains.  Its 
height,  upon  the  authority  of  a  gentleman  at  Lima,  is  fourteen 
thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Pasturage 
in  its  vicinity  is  good ;  sheep  and  cattle  are  abundant ;  bread  and 
potatoes  are  brought  over  the  mountains  from  Obrajillo ;  of  these  they 
have  oftentimes  but  a  scanty  supply,  which  was  the  case  at  this 
period.  The  evening  previous  to  their  arrival  a  theft  had  taken 
place  there, — a  gentleman  had  had  his  fire-arms  stolen ;  a  great  loss 
when  one  takes  into  consideration  the  nature  of  the  country,  and  the 
dangers  to  be  encountered  in  travelling. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th,  with  one  exception,  they  were  all 
affected  with  vomiting,  headache,  and  fever,  and  still  suffering  much 
from  difficulty  in  breathing ;  this  is  usually  felt  on  first  visiting  these 
elevated  regions,  and  is  said  to  be  particularly  so  at  night. 

The  morning  proved  so  boisterous,  with  frequent  hail  showers,  that 
they  determined  to  remain  the  day  to  rest  their  mules  and  recruit 
themselves.  Their  breakfast  was  more  acceptable  than  the  last 
night’s  supper  ;  it  consisted  of  olla  podrida  and  milk. 

As  the  weather  allowed  them  to  botanize,  they  set  out  in  two 
parties,  but  had  not  been  occupied  over  two  hours  before  they  were 
overtaken  by  a  severe  snow-storm,  which  entirely  covered  up  all  small 
plants,  and  made  it  difficult  for  them  to  scale  the  rocks. 

On  the  21st  they  had  determined  to  proceed  to  Banos,  which, 
from  the  description  of  their  guides,  who  were  ignorant,  however,  of 
the  route  beyond  Casa  Cancha,  they  had  been  led  to  believe  was  on 
the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountain. 

They  started  at  an  early  hour,  with  the  wild  geese  flying  and 
feeding  around  them,  determining  to  visit  Alpamarca,  which  is  distant 
from  Casa  Cancha  about  two  leagues,  but  owing  to  their  guides  being 
unacquainted  with  the  paths,  they  were  led  about  among  the  moun¬ 
tains,  and  over  extensive  plains,  covered  with  coarse  herbage.  A 
variety  of  beautiful  flowers  wTere  found,  and  many  domesticated 
llamas  were  seen  feeding.  At  11  o’clock  they  stumbled,  as  if  by 
accident,  on  the  place,  consisting  of  a  number  of  huts ;  one  of  these 
showed  the  welcome  sign  of  bread  for  sale,  viz.,  a  basket  stuck  upon 
a  long  pole ;  and  they  were  fortunate  in  procuring  some  small  rolls. 

Alpamarca  proved  to  be  in  the  vicinity  of  a  silver  mine,  and  here 
they  found  a  goodly  company  of  Peruvian  gentlemen,  collected  from 

68 


VOL.  I. 


270 


PERU. 


various  quarters,  aud  among  them  the  general  to  whom  they  had 
brought  letters  to  Obrajillo.  They  were  received  with  great  kind¬ 
ness  and  attention;  the  company  insisted  upon  their  dismounting, 
and  gave  them  the  cheer  they  had  prepared  for  themselves,  which 
was  readily  partaken  of.  It  was  served  in  a  large  gourd-shell,  and 
consisted  of  a  Spanish  hotch-potch,  or  olla,  with  carrots,  pot  garlic, 
pepper,  and  small  bits  of  mutton.  It  was  observed,  as  the  eatables 
were  disappearing,  that  the  Spanish  Dons  now  and  then  would 
partake  of  the  tidbits  by  reaching  over  their  shoulders  from  behind. 
This  repast  was  well  timed,  for  our  party  had  been  fasting  sufficiently 
long  to  enable  them  to  do  ample  justice  to  it. 

On  further  examination  the  hut  proved  to  be  provided  with  some 
few  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  although  the  supply  was  not  large. 

The  Peruvians  sent  for  the  superintendent  of  the  mine,  and  in  the 
mean  time  showed  the  process  of  extracting  the  silver,  which  was  as 
follows :  the  ore  is  broken  up  until  it  resembles  earth ;  it  is  then 
thrown  into  a  large  round  vat  and  mixed  with  mercury  and  water ; 
six  or  eight  mules  are  then  turned  in  and  driven  round  and  round, 
until  the  amalgam  is  formed ;  it  is  then  put  into  a  vessel,  and  stirred 
with  water  until  the  earth  mixes  with  it,  and  the  water  being  poured 
off,  leaves  the  amalgam,  whence  the  mercury  is  finally  evaporated. 

The  ore  appears  to  be  taken  almost  entirely  from  the  surface.  It 
is  poor,  and  the  mines  do  not  yield  much  profit.  There  are  many 
old  veins  that  have  been  extensively  worked,  but  owing  to  their 
depth  have  been  abandoned. 

The  superintendent  arrived  after  a  while;  he  proved  to  be  an 
English  miner  (Mr.  R.  Bevan,)  who  had  been  twenty  years  in  the 
country.  He  was  delighted  to  see  our  party,  saying  that  an  Ame¬ 
rican  and  Englishman  were  all  the  same  in  Peru,  and  that  he  had 
not  heard  his  own  language  spoken  for  two  years.  He  informed 
them  that  the  old  Spaniards  had  worked  the  mines  cheaper  than  any 
one  has  been  able  to  do  since.  They  were  large  landholders,  and 
contrived  to  keep  themselves  in  debt  to  their  tenants;  this  they 
always  paid  in  manufactured  goods,  very  much  in  demand  with  the 
Indians  who  worked  the  mines,  thus  making  a  double  profit  on  the 
wages.  At  the  present  time  the  mines  are  worked  by  Indians  of  a 
mixed  blood,  who  have  a  language  of  their  own.  They  are  much 
addicted  to  the  use  of  coca,  and  without  a  supply  of  this  leaf  they 
will  not  work. 

Mr.  Bevan  took  the  party  to  the  mine,  which  is  some  distance  up 


PERU. 


271 


the  mountain.  Much  difficulty  was  experienced  in  breathing  the 
rarefied  atmosphere,  and  great  fatigue  in  walking,  so  much  so,  that  it 
was  necessary  to  stop  every  few  steps  to  rest,  and  what  was  sur¬ 
prising,  Mr.  Be  van  and  the  Indians  who  accompanied  them,  appeared 
to  be  more  affected  than  any  of  the  party.  He  assured  them  it  was 
the  same,  even  with  the  Indians  born  on  the  spot,  showing  that 
neither  time  nor  other  circumstances  can  acclimatize  a  constitution 
to  this  high  region.  On  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  mine,  they 
saw  several  emaciated  and  ghastly-looking  Indians  seated  near  the 
entrance ;  they  descended  a  few  yards  into  it,  but  found  that  their 
time  would  not  admit  of  the  delay  necessary  to  pass  down  to  the 
places  where  they  were  at  work;  and  wishing  to  pay  more  attention 
to  the  interesting  region  of  botany  in  which  they  then  were,  they 
gave  up  their  intention  of  descending. 

On  no  part  of  their  journey  did  they  find  so  many  remarkable 
plants  as  on  this  mountain ;  for  information  respecting  these,  the 
reader  is  referred  to  the  Botanical  Report. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  they  had  returned  to  the  hut, 
when  they  determined  to  proceed  to  Banos.  Previous  to  leaving 
Alpamarca,  they  had  some  difficulty  with  their  guides,  who  were 
dissatisfied  with  their  bargain ;  it  therefore  required  some  manage¬ 
ment  to  prevent  them  from  deserting  altogether,  and  caused  our 
gentlemen  some  fear  lest  they  might  be  compelled  to  return ;  but 
after  much  dispute,  the  guides  consented  to  proceed,  although  it 
must  be  allowed  that  the  bargain  was  far  from  being  advantageous 
to  them. 

Along  the  road  to  Banos  they  passed  some  high  ridges,  with  snow 
and  ice  coming  at  times  down  to  the  path ;  also  lakes  in  deep  ravines, 
somewhat  resembling  small  craters,  which,  like  all  the  rest  they  had 
seen,  were  tenanted  by  numerous  water-fowl. 

The  crest  of  the  Andes  did  not  appear  quite  so  broad  as  it  was 
found  to  be  four  leagues  to  the  southward,  but  its  elevation  was 
thought  to  be  greater.  The  contiguous  ranges  of  snowy  peaks,  in 
the  direction  of  Pasco,  were  very  striking.  The  Indians  have  names 
for  all  the  most  remarkable  ones,  but  the  Spaniards  embrace  the 
whole,  together  with  the  principal  one,  under  the  name  of  La  Vinda. 

F rom  the  direction  of  the  descent  to  the  northward  and  westward, 
they  began  to  suspect  they  were  descending  upon  the  western  slope 
of  the  Cordilleras  instead  of  the  eastern ;  this  proved  to  be  the  case, 
which  was  no  small  disappointment,  as  it  was  their  original  intention 


272 


PERU. 


to  have  reached  the  wooded  district  on  the  eastern  slope,  termed 
“  montanas.”  In  this  they  were  therefore  disappointed.  As  they 
proceeded  the  country  improved,  the  climate  became  milder,  and  the 
soil  richer  :  on  their  way  they  crossed  a  small  stream,  which  was  said 
to  be  the  source  of  the  river  Chancai. 

At  dark  they  reached  Banos,  wdiich  is  computed  to  be  upwards  of 
five  leagues  from  Casa  Cancha.  Banos  is  considered  to  be  at  about 
the  same  elevation  as  Culnai,  but  the  descent  is  more  rapid  to  the 
former.  According  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  they  applied  to  the 
alcalde  for  accommodations,  who  is  obliged,  according  to  law,  to 
furnish  them  with  a  house,  if  the  town  should  possess  none  for  the 
accommodation  of  strangers,  free  of  expense,  and  to  provide  them 
with  a  cook ;  the  travellers  buy  their  own  provisions,  and  pay  for  the 
cooking,  one  real  for  each  dish. 

Banos  is  celebrated  for  its  mineral  hot  springs,  from  which  it 
derives  its  name ;  they  flow  from  the  base  of  a  high  mountain. 

The  town  consists  of  about  thirty  houses,  and  a  church  of  which 
the  inhabitants  are  very  proud.  It  is  a  neat  village  situated  in  a 
deep  ravine,  by  the  side  of  a  tumbling  stream,  bounded  on  both  sides 
by  mountains  three  thousand  feet  high.  The  mountain  sides  appear 
so  precipitous  that  the  remark  was  made  by  one  of  the  party,  “  that 
he  could  not  conceive  why  the  cattle  that  were  feeding  on  their  sides 
did  not  fall  off.” 

Along  the  margin  of  the  stream,  carnations,  pinks,  stock  gilly¬ 
flowers,  and  French  marigolds  are  naturalized;  the  pinks  grow  in 
immense  numbers  in  every  crack  and  crevice. 

The  cabbages  here  are  woody  and  arborescent,  like  the  cow  or  tree 
cabbage,  the  trunk  and  branches  being  quite  hard  and  covered  with 
bark,  and  they  have  at  a  distance  some  resemblance  to  the  Brug- 
mansia  suaveolens. 

The  thermometer  stood  at  50°,  and  the  weather  in  comparison  with 
the  day  before  was  quite  mild. 

The  hot  spring  is  close  to  the  village ;  owing  to  their  thermometer 
being  for  low  temperatures,  not  graduated  above  140°  they  did  not  get 
its  exact  temperature ;  but  eggs  put  in  were  cooked  in  about  three 
minutes,  and  their  tea  was  prepared  by  a  vessel  being  placed  in  it,  so 
that  it  could  not  be  far  from  the  boiling  point  at  ten  thousand  feet 
elevation.  No  steam  was  seen  to  issue  from  the  orifice,  but  vapour 
rises  afterwards  to  mark  the  spot;  there  is  also  a  strong  smell  of 
sulphur,  and  at  night  a  thick  cloud  hangs  over  the  spring.  The 


Drawn  by  AT.  Agate  '  Rawdori, Hatch., sc^p1 


M  A.  $  (®  @ 


ll?  .IcS  3SL  Iff 


■-H 


PERU. 


273 


water  was  tasteless,  and  there  was  a  coating  of  the  red  oxide  of  iron 
on  the  substances  over  which  the  water  had  passed,  and  in  some 
places  a  white  powder  is  seen.  A  few  yards  distant  from  the  location 
of  the  hot  spring  was  a  cold  one,  which,  mingled  with  the  hot,  is 
found  to  have  a  very  agreeable  temperature  for  a  bath,  in  which  the 
people  bathe,  and  women  wash  their  clothes ;  the  hot  spring  was 
thought  to  discharge  several  gallons  in  a  second. 

The  soil  in  this  valley  is  good,  and  cultivated  in  places  with  care  : 
no  fruit  was  observed.  The  largest  trees  were  a  species  of  elder  and  a 
Buddlea;  Calceolaria,  Salvia,  Heleotropium,  &c.,  abounded. 

On  the  22d  they  determined  to  remain  at  Banos.  At  an  early 
hour  in  the  morning  they  found  the  village  was  deserted,  and  it 
appeared  on  inquiry  that  all  the  inhabitants  had  gone  abroad  to  tend 
their  herds.  For  the  purpose  of  taking  as  wide  a  range  as  possible 
in  search  of  plants,  our  gentlemen  separated  from  each  other,  some 
going  up,  while  others  descended ;  they  all  met  with  great  success  in 
their  botanical  researches.  Dr.  Pickering  attempted  the  ascent  of 
one  of  the  summits ;  by  noon  he  had  reached  a  high  elevation,  and 
looking  up  he  espied  a  huge  condor  coming  down  the  valley.  He 
stopped  to  observe  its  motion,  as  it  sailed  slowly  and  majestically 
along.  To  his  surprise,  it  took  a  turn  around  him,  then  a  second  and 
a  third,,  the  last  time  drawing  so  near  that  he  began  to  think  it 
meditated  an  attack.  He  describes  himself  as  being  in  the  worst 
possible  condition  for  a  fight,  his  strength  being  exhausted  by  climb¬ 
ing,  and  his  right  hand  had  been  lamed  for  some  days  from  a  hurt. 
The  nature  of  the  ground  too  was  any  thing  but  favourable  for 
defence ;  but  there  was  nothing  left  except  to  prepare  for  a  fight,  and 
with  this  intent  he  took  a  seat  and  drew  his  knife.  At  the  instant, 
as  if  acquainted,  with  the  iron,  the  bird  whirled  off  in  a  different 
direction.  Dr.  Pickering  confesses,  however  humiliating  the  ac¬ 
knowledgment,  that  he  was  at  the  time  very  well  satisfied  with  the 
condor’s  determination  to  let  him  alone. 

Condors  are  numerous  here,  and  many  stories  are  related  of  their 
attacks  upon  animals ;  but  this  was  a  more  decided  manifestation  of 
a  disposition  to  assail  the  human  race  than  any  we  heard  of. 

Dr.  Pickering  was  enabled  to  reach  the  ridge  that  bounded  the 
valley,  but  there  were  many  higher  beyond.  The  view  there  was 
grand  and  distant,  overlooking  to  the  west  eight  distinct  ridges  be¬ 
tween  him  and  the  sea,  which  was  too  ill  defined  to  he  made  out  with 
any  certainty.  He  descended  by  the  same  route  again  to  the  village. 

69 


VOL.  I. 


274 


PERU. 


The  alcalde  discovering  that  one  of  the  party  (Mr.  Agate)  was  an 
artist,  became  extremely  anxious  that  he  should  make  a  sketch  of 
his  father-in-law,  an  old  revolutionary  soldier  who  resided  there. 
As  the  son-in-law  had  been  so  attentive,  and  offered  them  so  many 
civilities,  among  others  the  loan  of  a  silver  dish,  spoon,  and  fork, 
he  could  not  do  less  than  gratify  these  wishes.  For  this  purpose 
the  old  man  dressed  himself  in  his  uniform.  The  task  of  sitting 
was  greatly  too  much  for  him,  and  he  was  nearly  overcome  with  the 
excitement  and  exertion.  The  old  man  was  greatly  delighted  with 
the  picture,  as  were  all  those  about  him,  except  the  son-in-law,  who 
expressed  great  dissatisfaction  that  it  should  be  without  legs, — it 
being  only  a  half  length, — and  offered  a  large  price  to  have  them 
put  on,  but  time  did  not  admit  of  it.  The  sketch  was  presented  to 
him,  which  has  placed  it  out  of  my  power  to  give  a  cut  of  it. 

Mr.  Agate’s  first  effort  was  deemed  so  successful  that  his  reputation 
was  at  once  established  at  Banos,  and  shortly  afterwards  he  was 
called  upon  by  the  sacristan  to  engage  him  to  paint  the  four  Evange¬ 
lists  for  the  church.  Price  was  no  object,  provided  he  could  do  it, 
and  they  would  besides  consider  it  as  a  great  favour. 

Some  of  the  bystanders  proposed  to  have  the  constable  painted, 
and  pointed  to  a  strapping  big  negro. 

The  houses  literally  contained  no  furniture,  and  the  silver  lent  to 
our  party  was  believed  to  be  the  only  valuables  in  the  place.  The 
only  articles  besides  that  were  seen,  were  some  roughly  made  wooden 
spoons,  earthen  dishes,  and  water-jugs,  a  few  boards  made  into  a 
rough  table,  with  a  stool  or  two,  and  a  bedstead  made  of  canes  and 
plastered  with  clay.  In  no  part  of  the  United  States,  whether  in 
the  cabins  of  the  Far  West,  or  in  the  vilest  dens  of  our  eastern  cities, 
are  persons  to  be  seen  living  in  such  a  miserable  manner.  The 
country  people  of  Peru,  notwithstanding  they  are  surrounded  with 
every  thing  to  make  them  comfortable,  want  the  knowledge  and 
industry  to  make  use  of  them. 

On  the  23d  they  left  Banos  on  their  return.  Notwithstanding 
their  horses  had  had  some  rest,  their  backs  were  in  a  shocking  state, 
but  the  sores  did  not  seem  to  be  regarded  much  by  the  guides,  who 
applied  soap  to  them ;  they  scolded  and  blamed  the  English  saddles, 
which  they  called  “  Gallapagos  turtles.” 

The  party  had  determined  to  make  another  visit  to  Alpamarca,  but 
the  guides  would  not  listen  to  it,  giving  as  a  reason  that  they  should 
have  their  horses  stolen  if  they  did.  While  this  discussion  was 


PERU. 


275 


going  on,  they  met  a  person  who  informed  them  that  the  only  persons 
now  there  were  Indians.  As  their  only  inducement  to  return  was 
the  agreeable  company  they  had  left,  they  acceded  to  their  guides’ 
views,  and  taking  another  direction,  arrived  at  Casa  Cancha  in  the 
afternoon.  At  night  they  had  an  arrival  of  some  Chilian  cavalry, 
and  there  was  great  alarm  felt  among  the  occupants  of  the  huts  and 
the  guides,  for  fear  of  losing  their  horses,  a  disaster  which  they  said 
often  occurred  when  such  visiters  came.  The  commander  proved  to 
be  a  gentlemanly  person,  and  rendered  our  party  much  assistance. 
This  party  had  left  Pasco,  the  chief  mining  place  of  Lower  Peru,  in 
the  morning,  and  represented  it  as  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  con¬ 
taining  many  foreign  residents,  including  English,  American,  French, 
and  German.  He  stated  that  the  Quichua  language  was  spoken 
there,  and  that  the  Spanish  was  not  commonly  understood. 


KUkM  ©S’  I’JkiOOo 


The  town  of  Pasco  is  at  an  elevation  of  thirteen  thousand  feet, 
and  situated  in  the  plain  of  San  Juan,  at  the  head  of  two  ravines  or 
gullies,  one  called  Rumiallana,  leading  to  the  northward,  and  the 
other  Huanuco,  to  the  eastward,  where  the  two  great  veins  of  Col- 
quijirca  and  Pariajirca  unite.  These  are  supposed  to  extend  some 
seventy  miles  in  length,  and  the  town  of  Pasco  is  situated  at  their 
junction,  a  plot  of  which,  taken  from  the  survey  of  Mr.  Trevithick,  is 


276 


PERU. 


given  above.  The  part  of  the  ground  that  has  been  broken  up,  and 
in  which  ores  have  been  found,  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length  in  a 
north  and  south  direction,  and  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  east  and 
west.  Within  the  whole  of  this  extent  ores  have  been  mined  of 
greater  or  less  value,  and  the  number  of  mines  worked  and  now 
deserted  are  said  to  amount  to  upwards  of  a  thousand  :  some  of  these 
are  represented  on  the  plan  by  round  marks. 

The  town  of  Pasco  is  surrounded  on  three  sides — northeast  and 
south  by  hills  of  blue  limestone ;  on  the  west  the  hills  are  of  sand¬ 
stone,  and  on  the  southwest  of  a  blue  slate.  Through  the  latter  rock 
the  adit  which  comes  up  from  the  lake  of  Quilacocha  has  been 
driven,  until  it  reached  the  metalliferous  ground  in  the  district  of 
Santa  Rosa.  All  the  ores  of  the  Cerro  are  ferruginous,  and  the  silver 
nearest  to  the  surface  is  contained  in  an  ochreous  iron-stone.  In 
particular  spots  the  silver  is  found  mixed  with  lead  and  copper,  and 
at  variable  depths  in  different  localities  the  ores  rest  on  a  bed  of  solid 
iron  pyrites,  which  in  some  mines  yield  silver  and  in  others  not. 

Although  there  appeared  to  be  two  veins,  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles,  yet  strictly  speaking  there  is  but  one,  the  great  vein  of 
Colquijirca.  This  vein  comes  in  from  the  hill  of  Uliachim,  on  the 
south  of  the  town,  and  runs  through  the  whole  metalliferous  ground 
to  the  edge  of  the  plain  of  San  Juan  on  the  north. 

On  the  course  of  this  lode,  generally  speaking,  the  richest  ores  are 
met  with.  On  each  side  of  the  ‘vein  an  extensive  deposit  of  ore  is 
generally  found,  with  little  regard  to  the  ordinary  regularity  of  metal¬ 
liferous  formation. 

The  plain  of  San  Juan  is  divided  into  many  mining  districts,  to 
which  names  are  given  to  distinguish  them  more  readily.  The 
southernmost  of  these  is  called  Zauricocha,  and  contains  several 
mines,  from  which  great  wealth  has  been  produced  since  the  Revo¬ 
lution.  This  is  the  district  from  which  all  the  richest  ores  have  been 
produced,  and  it  has  been  always  looked  upon  as  the  most  important 
district  in  the  Cerro.  It  is  believed  that  farther  south,  between  this 
point  and  the  hill  of  Uliachim,  some  good  ores  exist,  but  no  attempt 
has  yet  been  made  to  mine  there. 

In  the  district  of  Santa  Rosa,  lying  west  of  Zauricocha,  the  greatest 
quantity  of  ore  has  been  raised  :  it  has  been  worked  dowm  to  the  level 
of  the  adit;  and  in  several  mines,  where  good  ore  has  been  discovered, 
they  have  descended  to  a  lower  level,  drainage  having  been  effected 
by  hand-pumping. 


PERU. 


277 


On  the  east  of  the  Zauricocha  is  the  district  called  Arenillapata, 
in  which  few  mines  are  now  worked ;  the  ore  which  is  produced, 
although  abundant  in  particular  spots,  is  not  rich. 

Immediately  within  the  town  there  are  some  few  mines  that  are 
good,  but  there  has  never  been  any  extensive  work  carried  on,  and  it 
is  believed  that  ore  yet  remains  to  be  discovered. 

Cayac,  another  district  lying  north  of  Zauricocha,  is  worked  to 
some  profit;  the  upper  adit  from  the  northwest  reaches  it,  and 
several  mines  have  been  producing  good  results. 

To  the  north  of  Cayac  are  the  Chucarillo  and  Zauacanclia  dis¬ 
tricts,  the  working  of  the  mines  in  which  has  been  impeded  by  water 
ever  since  the  breaking  out  of  the  revolutionary  war.  The  upper 
adit,  leading  from  the  gully  of  Rumiallana,  is  above  them,  and  they 
derive  no  benefit  from  it. 

To  the  north  of  these  last  two  districts  lies  the  plain  of  San  Juan; 
there  are  some  small  veins  running  through  some  parts  of  it,  but  no 
important  discovery  has  yet  been  made,  although  many  mines  have 
been  opened  and  carried  down  to  depths  of  from  one  hundred  and 
twenty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  lower  adit,  from  the 
gully  of  Rumiallana,  is  to  run  through  it,  and  may  open  to  the 
proprietors  some  discoveries  to  recompense  them  for  their  labour. 

The  whole  number  of  mines  considered  rich  in  the  different 
districts,  may  be  enumerated  as  follows  : 


In  Zauricocha . 12  to  14. 

Santa  Rosa . 20  to  25. 

Cayac . 10  to  12. 

Chucarillo . 5  to  6. 

Zauacancha  . 10  to  12. 


Each  of  these  mines  comprises  a  space  of  one  hundred  and  eighty 
feet  long  by  ninety  feet  wide. 

The  silver  ores  are  estimated  by  a  measure  called  a  box  of  ore, 
which  contains  twenty-five  mule-loads  of  ten  arrobas  or  twenty -five 
pounds  each.  Each  box  varies  in  value  from  six  Spanish  marks  to 
three  thousand ;  the  former  being  the  lowest  which,  under  the  most 
favourable  circumstances,  will  pay  the  cost  of  working.  The  poorest 
is  of  course  the  most  abundant. 

The  miner  who  can  raise  ores  in  considerable  quantities,  which 
will  give  ten  to  twelve  marcs  per  box,  does  well. 

70 


VOL.  I. 


278 


PERU. 


The  produce  of  the  mines  since  the  close  of  the  revolutionary 
war  has  amounted  to  the  following,  viz. : 


MARCS.  OZ. 


In  1825, 

228  bars, 

weighing  56,971 

6 

1826, 

818 

.  163,852 

1827, 

1068 

.  221,707 

7 

1828, 

922 

.  201,338 

1829, 

359 

82,031 

1830, 

457 

96,265 

1831, 

635 

.  135,139 

3 

1832, 

994 

.  219,380 

5 

1833, 

1133 

,  256,333 

2 

1834, 

1142 

.  267,363 

4 

1835, 

1148 

.  276,813 

2 

1836, 

991 

.  244,404 

1 

1837, 

1172 

.  234,785 

3 

1838, 

1172 

.  248,022 

6 

1839, 

1210 

.  279,260 

3 

To  this  may  be  added  one-fifth  for  silver  that  has  not  paid  duties. 

The  first  adit  of  importance  driven  into  the  mines  was  that  of  San 
Judas,  which  passed  the  wall  of  the  vein  of  Zauricocha  in  the  year 
1794.  By  means  of  this  adit  very  rich  ores  were  raised,  especially 
from  the  king’s  mine.  In  the  year  1808,  the  present  deep  adit,  from 
which  so  much  was  expected,  was  begun ;  for  covering  the  expenses 
of  constructing  it,  the  body  of  miners  imposed  a  duty  of  one  real  per 
marc  on  all  silver  melted  in  the  government  assay-office.  This  adit 
reached  in  1830  the  southwest  edge  of  the  metalliferous  ground  of 
Santa  Rosa,  up  to  which  time  the  whole  of  its  course  had  been  in  a 
hard  rock.  An  auxiliary  adit  was  then  commenced,  fifty-four  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  main  one,  and  both  of  these  works  have  been 
carried  on  until  the  present  time.  The  ground  above  being  better 
adapted  for  driving  in,  the  upper  adit  is  in  advance  of  the  lower,  one 
thousand  five  hundred  feet,  and  has  arrived  at  the  district  of  Cayac. 
The  lower  adit  has  reached  the  mines  situated  upon  the  vein  of 
Zauricocha,  without  having  cut  a  single  vein  or  deposit  of  ore  in  its 
transit.  There  are  several  rich  mines  a  little  in  advance  of  this  adit, 
some  of  which  have  been  hitherto  drained  by  hand-pumps,  and  which 
must  be  shortly  very  much  benefited  by  it,  for,  although  they  extend 
below  the  level  of  the  adit,  yet  they  will  have  some  fifty  feet  of  pump- 


PERU. 


279 


lift  removed.  It  will  excite  some  wonder  that  steam  is  not  employed 
in  the  draining-  of  such  valuable  mines.  It  has,  however,  been 
tried ;  a  few  years  previous  to  the  revolution  four  steam  engines,  of 
thirty  horse  power  each,  were  brought  out  from  England,  and  three 
of  them  put  up  in  the  districts  of  Santa  Rosa,  Cayac,  and  Zaura- 
cancha.  That  of  Zauricocha  was  not  set  up,  but  the  other  three 
were  worked  with  some  success. 

A  level  was  driven  from  the  engine-shaft  of  Santa  Rosa,  into  the 
mines  of  Zauricocha,  and  rich  ores  were  raised.  The  engine  of 
Cayac  did  little  more  than  assist  that  of  Zauricocha,  which,  on 
account  of  the  greater  quantity  of  water,  was  barely  able  to  do  the 
work  required  of  it.  The  expense  incurred  by  the  house  of  Abodia 
in  this  undertaking  was  upwards  of  six  hundred  thousand  dollars, 
and  at  the  moment  when  they  had  begun  to  receive  a  good  return  for 
their  capital,  the  revolution  broke  out,  and  the  troubles  incident  to  it 
put  a  stop  to  their  work,  and  left  them  with  that  amount  of  loss. 
Subsequently,  at  the  close  of  the  war,  the  engine  of  Santa  Rosa  was 
again  put  in  operation,  and  in  parts  of  the  years  1826  and  1827,  a 
considerable  quantity  of  silver  was  produced,  in  virtue  of  the 
drainage  effected  by  it. 

Some  abortive  attempts  were  made  to  use  the  engine  of  Zauri¬ 
cocha,  from  1829  to  1833,  but  since  that  time  they  have  all  been 
abandoned,  and  considered  as  unserviceable. 

The  establishments  for  grinding  and  amalgamating  the  ores  are 
situated  at  from  one  mile  to  three  leagues  from  the  mines,  those 
nearest  the  town  are  deficient  in  water  for  several  months  in  the  year. 
The  construction  of  all  these  mills  is  rude,  and  much  power  is  lost. 
A  mill  will  grind  two  hundred  boxes  of  the  hardest  ore,  provided  it 
has  a  constant  stream  of  water.  The  amalgamation  of  the  ore  with 
mercury  is  effected  by  its  being  trodden  by  horses  in  circular 
enclosures,  containing  from  five  to  ten  boxes.  The  consumption  of 
mercury  between  mechanical  and  chemical  loss  is  about  one  pound 
for  each  marc  of  silver  produced. 

No  attempts  have  yet  been  made  at  roasting  any  of  the  ores. 

Coal  mines  are  met  with  in  various  parts  of  the  country,  at  the 
distance  of  from  two  to  seven  leagues ;  the  price  is  one  real  for  an 
arroba,  but  might  be  much  reduced  if  the  business  was  properly 
attended  to. 

Various  plans  have  been  formed  at  Lima  and  in  England  to 
purchase  and  work  these  mines,  but  with  what  success  is  very 


280 


PERU. 


uncertain;  the  attempts  have  generally  been  supposed  to  have 
resulted  in  a  loss.  Speculation  is  always  rife  in  search  of  these 
valuable  ores,  and  prospects  of  great  gain  are  invariably  held  out 
to  those  who  engage  in  them,  hut  there  is  much  difficulty  in  getting 
the  business  into  successful  operation.  The  great  error  committed 
by  all  the  English  companies  established  in  1825,  for  working  mines 
in  Spanish  America,  wTas  in  saddling  themselves  with  great  numbers 
of  people  engaged  at  high  salaries,  and  workmen  at  extravagant 
wages;  the  expenses  attending  them  swallowed  up  much  of  the 
funds  before  any  work  was  begun.  These  included  not  only  inspec¬ 
tors  and  mining-captains,  but  artisans,  all  of  whom  were  sent  from 
England.  From  a  total  change  of  life  and  circumstances,  the 
mining-captains  and  artisans  almost  invariably  turned  out  in  a  short 
time  drunkards,  and  good  for  nothing.  In  some  cases  workmen 
were  brought  out,  and  these  turned  out  much  more  worthless  than 
either  of  the  two  former  classes.  They,  indeed,  did  more  work  than 
the  Indians,  but  their  wages  were  higher,  and  the  expenses  for  their 
importation  in  addition,  made  them  cost  much  more. 

According  to  the  laws  of  Peru,  the  silver  produced  in  this  depart¬ 
ment  must  be  sent  to  the  government  assay-office  to  be  melted  into 
bars,  and  thence  to  the  mint  at  Lima  to  be  coined.  The  usual  price 
of  silver  as  it  comes  from  the  mine,  is  from  seven  dollars  six  reals,  to 
seven  dollars  seven  reals  per  marc.  If  remitted  to  Lima  on  account 
of  the  miner,  it  yields  him  about  eight  dollars  one  real  per  marc. 

The  duties  it  pays  are  six  dollars  per  bar  of  two  hundred  and  ten 
marcs  to  the  assay-master,  one  real  per  marc  for  the  public  works  of 
the  Cerro,  and  one  real  per  marc  to  government. 

The  mint  price  is  eight  dollars  two  maravedis  per  marc  of  eleven 
pennyweights  fine. 

Within  three  leagues  of  Pasco,  on  an  extensive  plain,  there  stands 
an  isolated  hill  of  porphyry,  called  Raco.  F rom  this  hill  are  cut  the 
stones  used  in  grinding  the  ores,  which  are  from  two  and  a  half  to 
three  varas  in  diameter,  and  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  in 
thickness.  The  cost  for  delivering  them  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  ten 
dollars  for  every  quarter  of  a  vara  of  their  diameter,  and  the  expense 
of  drawing  them  to  the  mills,  varies  from  seventy  to  two  hundred 
dollars,  according  to  the  distance  A 


*  Most  of  the  above  facts  are  derived  from  a  person  who  had  long  resided  on  the  spot, 
and  been  engaged  in  various  mining  operations. 


PERU. 


281 


In  1840  several  new  attempts  were  about  to  be  made  in  mining 
speculations. 

The  great  difficulty  to  secure  success  seems  to  be  in  providing  for 
the  proper  drainage,  which  the  present  adit  will  not  accomplish  alone, 
and  great  advantages  might  be  derived  from  steam  power  properly 
employed  to  free  the  mines  of  water.  The  owners  of  the  mines  are 
always  desirous  of  inserting  in  the  contracts,  that  they  shall  not  have 
any  water  to  raise  themselves,  as  this  is  the  most  expensive  part  of 
the  process,  for  the  ore  is  very  rapidly  mined  the  moment  the  water 
is  drained  off.  The  remuneration  given  to  the  proprietors  of  the 
steam  engines  is  one-fifth  of  the  ore  raised ;  this  was  the  sum  paid  to 
the  old  company,  and  the  same  was  stipulated  to  be  paid  to  the  parties 
who  undertook  the  same  work  in  1829. 

Mines  are  to  be  bought  at  all  times  on  reasonable  terms,  for  the 
miners  often  desire  to  retire  from  business,  or  wish  to  sell  for  the  sake 
of  profit,  or  are  not  able  to  carry  them  on  from  a  want  of  capital. 
There  is,  however,  one  difficulty  a  purchaser  has  to  contend  with, 
for  the  mines  are  almost  always  held  in  small  shares  among  a  number 
of  relatives,  many  of  whom  refuse  to  sell  their  small  interest.  This 
makes  the  mines  less  desirable  property,  as  difficulties  almost 
invariably  occur  with  these  small  proprietors.  Mines  are  constantly 
in  the  market,  and  offered  at  reasonable  rates. 

No  miner  who  has  worked  with  reasonable  prudence,  steadiness, 
and  a  sufficient  capital,  has  failed  to  do  well  since  the  year  1833. 
The  produce  of  the  mines  of  the  Cerro  from  that  time,  has  not 
varied  much  from  one  year  to  another,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  table 
heretofore  given.  The  undertakings  which  have  been  carried  on 
upon  an  extensive  scale,  are  those  which  have  prospered  most. 
There  were  many  difficulties  that  the  first  mining  companies  had  to 
encounter,  that  others  need  not  again  apprehend  ;  the  local  interests 
are  better  understood  and  would  be  more  respected ;  a  better  know¬ 
ledge  of  the  people  prevails,  and  of  the  modes  of  mining ;  and 
the  people  themselves  have  lost  some  of  their  prejudices  against 
foreigners.  Persons  may  now  be  obtained  to  assist  in  the  direction 
as  well  as  to  afford  advice  to  the  agents,  who  may  be  entrusted 
with  the  affairs  of  the  company,  so  that  the  prospects  of  success  in 
the  operations  are  decidedly  more  favourable  than  they  were  fifteen 
years  previously.  But  although  the  actual  operation  of  mining  may 
be  more  advantageous,  yet  the  country  in  its  political  and  commercial 

71 


VOL.  I. 


282 


PERU. 


character  has  very  much  deteriorated,  and  there  is  little  doubt,  on  the 
whole,  that  but  little  capital  will  be  invested  in  it  until  there  is  a 
great  change  in  its  rulers  as  well  as  in  its  people,  and  until  govern¬ 
ment,  the  laws  and  good  order  become  as  well  established  as  they  are 
in  Chili.  All  the  friends  of  Peru,  seem,  however,  to  he  well  satisfied, 
from  appearances,  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  she  will  be 
enabled  to  sit  down  quietly  in  the  enjoyment  of  tranquillity. 

To  return  after  this  digression  to  our  party :  they  had  much 
agreeable  conversation  with  the  Chilian  officers,  and  passed  a 
pleasant  evening.  As  I  have  before  spoken  of  the  accommodations, 
it  is  needless  to  say  that  they  were  not  improved. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th,  the  thermometer  stood  at  36°  in  the 
hut,  and  on  the  rivulet  there  was  ice  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick. 
Mr.  Brackenridge  gathered  seeds  here  of  a  curious  species  of  Cactus, 
which  grows  plentifully  all  over  the  mountains  in  dense  tufts ;  from 
the  quantities  of  down  or  fine  hair  upon  it,  it  has  the  appearance  at  a 
distance  of  a  white  sheep,  so  much  so  that  a  group  of  them  was 
sometimes  mistaken  for  a  flock. 

Although  Casa  Cancha  was  a  wretched  hovel,  and  had  every  thing 
in  it  to  disgust,  yet  the  situation  was  one  of  great  beauty  and  truly 
romantic.  In  the  stream  that  flowed  near  it,  were  fish  of  from  six  to 
eight  inches  in  length,  but  none  of  these  were  taken,  as  the  party 
was  not  provided  with  fishing-tackle. 

When  the  time  came  for  their  departure,  they  were  glad  to  bid 
adieu  to  the  place,  and  to  begin  their  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  ridge. 
They  rode  two  leagues  to  the  source  of  the  stream,  which  is  near  the 
summit  of  the  ridge.  At  but  a  short  distance  from  their  path  was  the 
line  of  perpetual  snow.  They  found  the  ground  hard  frozen  as  the 
snow  was  approached,  and  almost  bare  of  vegetation,  only  a  few 
stunted  spears  of  grass  occurring  here  and  there ;  even  this  appeared 
to  be  wanting  in  the  bare  spots  above  the  snow  line.  The  snow  was 
but  a  thin  covering,  its  surface  was  hardened,  and  its  lower  margin 
formed  a  perfectly  unbroken  horizontal  line,  along  the  face  of  the 
mountain.  This  was  not  apparently  the  case  on  the  other  ridges,  for 
the  snow  lay  there  in  hollows  and  sometimes  descended,  as  before 
remarked,  below  the  path. 

In  the  alpine  lakes  was  a  species  of  Myriophyllum,  the  same  as 
found  at  Culnai,  three  thousand  feet  below.  Dr.  Pickering  picked 
up  an  ammonite  here. 


PERU. 


283 


They  descended  rapidly  down  the  western  declivity ;  the  scenery 
was  beautiful,  and  they  had  plenty  of  employment  in  collecting. 
Two  large  parties  were  met,  as  they  descended,  the  one  of  loaded 
mules,  the  other  of  several  genteel  travellers,  among  whom  were 
females,  accompanied  by  several  servants  well  armed.  In  the  after¬ 
noon  they  reached  a  solitary  hut,  at  a  place  called  Chicrine,  situated 
at  the  foot  of  La  Yinda,  and  kept  by  an  old  woman  with  one  eye; 
she  proved  very  much  the  reverse  of  their  hostess  at  Casa  Cancha, 
being  very  cleanly ;  here  they  passed  the  night  comfortably. 

A  Frenchman,  who  was  now  passing  for  a  native,  and  was  on  his 
way  to  Pasco,  with  his  servant,  joined  them  at  Chicrine.  Being 
invited  to  partake  of  supper,  he  accepted,  and  did  ample  justice  to 
it,  but  when  he  had  finished,  contrary  to  the  usual  politeness  of 
his  countrymen,  he  told  them  he  had  never  eaten  a  worse  meal  in 
his  life. 

After  this  remark,  a  belief  was  entertained  that  his  saddle-bags 
contained  something,  and  he  was  accordingly  plied  with  questions 
until  he  confessed  he  had  a  loaf  of  bread ;  this  proved  quite  a  treat 
and  triumph  over  their  fellow-lodger,  who  promised  them  a  farther 
treat  in  the  morning  upon  some  fine  chocolate. 

On  the  morning  of  the  25th,  the  Frenchman  departed  early,  and 
forgot  all  about  his  fine  chocolate,  they  regretted  to  hear,  shortly  after 
their  arrival  at  Lima,  that  he  had  been  robbed  and  murdered  on  his 
return. 

Our  party  set  out  early,  and  after  an  hour’s  ride  reached  Culnai, 
where  the  villagers  were  busy  gathering  in  their  potatoes.  There 
were  also  several  patches  of  Oxalis  cunata,  Tropeoleum  tuberosum, 
and  a  species  of  Basella.  The  two  former  when  cooked  were  well 
tasted,  and  all  of  them  are  much  esteemed  by  the  natives.  These 
patches  are  enclosed  by  low  stone  dikes ;  the  plants  as  they  advance 
are  earthed  up,  as  we  do  potatoes,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season ; 
irrigation  is  necessary,  as  the  soil  is  light  and  open,  and  consists 
chiefly  of  decayed  rock  and  vegetable  mould.  Here  some  very 
interesting  seeds  and  roots  of  a  species  of  Alstroemeria  were  gathered. 

Culnai  and  Banos  are  about  on  the  same  level,  ten  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  are  the  highest  points  of  cultivation ;  they  are  both 
distant  from  the  crest  by  the  route  of  the  water-course  about  nine  miles. 

Dr.  Pickering  having  preceded  the  party  on  foot,  reached  Culnai 
after  nine  o’clock,  when  he  entered  a  store  and  was  received,  with  the 
utmost  cordiality ;  a  meal  was  at  once  prepared  for  him,  consisting  of 


284 


PERU. 


eggs  and  potatoes,  called  cirape  in  the  country,  which  was  kindly 
tendered ;  the  landlord  was  very  inquisitive,  and  examined  his  budget, 
calling  the  attention  of  the  bystanders  to  it ;  his  charge  was  reason¬ 
able,  and  he  gave  the  doctor  a  hearty  salutation  at  parting,  with  the 
“  Adios  per  Dios.” 

At  dark  the  party  was  reunited  at  Obrajillo.  Those  who  arrived 
first  witnessed  the  slaughtering  of  a  bullock  in  the  square,  on  which 
occasion  great  numbers  of  condors  and  buzzards  were  collected  in  the 
air  above.  The  latter  bird  is  seldom  seen  above  Yaso.  They 
stopped  at  the  posada,  which  they  found  occupied  by  the  company  of 
Chilian  troops,  whom  they  had  met  at  Casa  Cancha,  and  in  conse¬ 
quence  they  were  obliged  to  take  up  with  a  filthy  hut. 

At  Obrajillo  good  crops  of  Indian  corn,  rye,  and  beans  are  raised, 
but  none  of  these  grow  higher  up. 

A  singular  and  rather  amusing  custom  was  witnessed  in  the 
morning,  which  does  not  speak  much  for  the  gallantry  of  the  male 
population.  A  town  officer  was  seen  strutting  with  a  spear  about 
the  public  square,  calling  all  the  women  out  to  come  and  sweep  it. 
They  soon  made  their  appearance,  and  were  not  long  in  creating  a 
prodigious  dust.  They  swept  the  dirt  up  into  small  heaps;  then 
taking  their  coarse  shawls  from  their  shoulders,  they  spread  them 
upon  the  ground  and  put  the  dirt  they  had  collected  into  them,  to  be 
carried  away. 

The  Chilian  officers  called  upon  them  with  offers  of  service,  and 
were  very  civil  and  polite. 

At  Obrajillo  it  was  said  that  the  wealthy  men  of  the  place  kept 
very  quiet,  being  much  alarmed  at  the  presence  of  the  Chilians. 

The  guides  now  demanded  a  settlement,  but  requested  their  money 
might  be  kept  for  them  until  the  party  reached  Lima,  as  they  cer¬ 
tainly  would  be  robbed  if  they  took  it  themselves.  This  incident 
proves  how  little  security  there  is  in  this  country,  for  any  class  of 
persons  having  any  thing  valuable  about  them. 

The  preparations  that  had  been  made  in  the  town  were  for  a 
festival,  and  the  guides  were  disinclined  to  start  for  Lima.  A  little 
bribery,  however,  and  reminding  them  that  one  of  the  greatest  feasts 
in  the  Catholic  church,  that  of  Corpus  Christi,  was  near  at  hand, 
induced  them  to  go  forward. 

On  their  way  from  Obrajillo,  which  they  left  at  an  early  hour,  they 
met  a  bridal  party  on  horseback.  The  bridegroom’s  hat  and  person 
were  decorated  with  carnations  and  pinks ;  the  bride  and  brides- 


PERU. 


285 


maid  carried  the  same  flower,  which  they  presented  to  onr  gentlemen 
in  passing.  After  a  hard  day’s  ride  they  reached  Yaso,  and  took  up 
their  quarters  in  the  porch  of  the  posthouse ;  the  landlord  and  post¬ 
master’s  absence  was  now  accounted  for,  by  saying  that  he  had  gone 
to  church,  but  would  soon  be  back ;  he  of  course  did  not  come,  nor 
was  he  expected  by  our  gentlemen.  They  in  consequence  fared 
badly,  for  they  had  nothing  to  eat.  They  found  here  a  gentleman 
who  had  been  robbed  the  day  before,  by  three  persons  in  masks ; 
they  had  treated  him  with  great  politeness,  only  proposing  exchanges 
to  his  disadvantage ;  he  had  nothing  else  to  complain  of ;  they  took 
his  purse,  watch,  spurs,  and  a  drink  of  his  brandy.  Much  to  their 
surprise,  the  guides,  who  had  been  so  scrupulous  about  their  money, 
showed  no  signs  of  alarm.  A  new  difficulty  arose  with  them :  they 
had  been  informed  that  a  conscription  was  going  on,  and  they  were 
afraid  to  proceed,  lest  they  should  lose  their  liberty,  but  the  assurance 
that  they  would  be  protected  while  with  the  party,  satisfied  them. 

The  frequency  of  murder,  highway  robbery,  and  a  constant  resort 
to  the  cuchillo,  has  not  been  exaggerated  in  the  accounts  of  Lower 
Peru. 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th  they  again  set  out,  having  prepared 
themselves  to  encounter  any  force.  The  guides,  knowing  well  the 
dangers  that  were  to  be  apprehended,  showed  much  solicitude  about 
keeping  the  company  together. 

They  reached  Yanga  without  accident,  and  finding  the  posada 
occupied  by  a  party  of  soldiers,  and  a  recruiting  officer,  they  were 
directed  to  a  house  with  a  porch,  but  they  found  it  shut  up.  They 
therefore,  being  assured  that  the  owner  would  soon  return,  deposited 
the  saddles,  &c.,  in  the  porch.  Soon  after  a  woman  appeared,  and  on 
being  informed  of  their  situation,  and  that  they  had  fasted  for  two 
days,  she  set  about  providing  for  their  supper,  apparently  from 
Christian  motives,  for  during  the  process  she  crossed  herself  several 
times.  She  proved  to  be  the  owner  of  the  estate,  was  somewhat 
advanced  in  life,  managed  her  own  affairs,  and  was  seemingly  well 
adapted  to  encounter  the  roughness  of  the  times.  The  heiress,  a 
little  girl,  (Angelita  by  name),  came  galloping  on  a  horse,  driving  the 
cattle  before  her,  with  the  air  of  a  veteran,  having  command  over 
both  the  animal  she  rode,  and  those  she  drove  ;  they  were  not  much 
struck  with  her  beauty,  for  her  well-plastered  face,  and  wide-spreading 
and  matted  hair,  gave  her  the  appearance  of  an  elf ;  but  she  was  a 

72 


VOL.  I. 


286 


PERU. 


specimen  of  Peruvian  nobility.  Their  supper  was  good,  and  they 
were  permitted  to  lie  on  the  clay  floor,  in  the  house. 

They  paid  the  usual  price  for  the  accommodations.  In  the  morning, 
before  their  departure,  they  purchased  fifty  oranges  for  twelve  and  a 
half  cents  (a  real),  it  being  stipulated,  however,  that  they  should  be 
gathered  by  themselves.  These  served  to  refresh  them  while  passing 
over  the  barren  track  (described  in  their  ascent),  of  four  leagues. 
They  were  overtaken  by  their  Chilian  friends,  and  the  troop,  when 
their  minds  were  relieved  of  the  apprehensions  of  robberies. 

Caballeros  was  reached  at  an  early  hour,  and  here  they  intended  to 
have  stopped  on  account  of  their  horses,  but  their  Chilian  friends 
persuaded  them  to  pursue  their  journey  to  Lima,  promising  to  render 
them  assistance,  in  case  they  should  need  it.  At  Caballeros  they 
witnessed  a  fight  between  a  turkey  and  a  game-cock;  strife,  indeed, 
appears  to  be  a  constant  amusement  with  the  Peruvians,  and  scenes 
of  this  kind  seem  alone  to  interest  the  public.  After  a  long  day’s 
journey  of  twelve  leagues,  they  reached  Lima  at  eight  o’clock,  very 
much  fatigued,  and  happy  to  return  to  the  comforts  of  civilized  life. 

The  only  novelty  they  met  with  during  the  day’s  ride  was  a 
Gaacho  on  horseback,  carrying  a  pine  board  before  him,  a  proof  of 
the  scarcity  of  such  articles  in  Peru,  and  the  value  that  is  set  upon 
them. 

This  journey,  although  attended  with  much  fatigue  and  some  dis¬ 
appointment,  from  not  having  obtained  their  object  entirely,  that  of 
reaching  the  wooded  district  of  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes,  yet 
was  very  productive  of  results  in  the  botanical  department. 

The  great  difference  of  elevation,  and  the  variation  in  climate  con¬ 
sequent  thereto,  would  lead  one  to  expect  a  greater  variety  in  the 
vegetation  than  wTas  found.  Forests  were  no  where  met  with,  nor 
were  any  of  the  palm  tribe  seen ;  very  few  of  the  many  tropical  plants 
were  perceived  even  on  the  coast.  The  smaller  shrubs  were  seldom 
found,  except  in  the  lower  region,  where  their  limit  is  circumscribed 
to  the  wTell-watered  district.  Thickets  are  very  rare,  and  in  the 
higher  regions  appear  to  be  altogether  wanting.  The  vegetation  of 
Peru  on  the  whole  is  characterized  by  an  air  of  tameness,  indicating 
but  a  slight  change  of  season,  and  has  been  classed  into  four  distinct 
botanical  regions,  which  are  easily  distinguished;  they  will  claim 
particular  attention,  and  afford  much  interesting  matter,  in  the 
Botanical  Report. 


PERU. 


287 


The  geological  region  passed  over  was  also  one  of  much  interest, 
and  from  the  observations  of  the  gentlemen  the  following  information 
has  been  derived. 

The  geological  structure,  as  far  as  their  observations  went,  cor¬ 
responds  to  that  of  North  Chili,  with  the  exception  of  a  narrow  belt 
of  sedimentary  rock  along  the  sea-coast,  west  of  the  granitic  range, 
which  is  wanting  in  that  country.  This  belt  includes  the  island  of 
San  Lorenzo,  and  others,  as  well  as  the  coast  itself,  to  the  extent  of 
from  seven  to  ten  miles  from  the  sea-beach.  These  sedimentary 
rocks  are  argillaceous,  distinctly  stratified,  and  more  or  less  slaty,  the 
layers  being  in  many  places  discoloured  by  the  red  oxide  of  iron.  In 
other  places  they  appeared  of  a  black  colour,  as  if  in  the  vicinity 
of  coal  beds,  of  which  the  existence  was  spoken  of,  but  we  did  not 
discover  any  unequivocal  traces  of  this  substance.  Some  conspicuous 
examples  of  faults  were  noticed  by  Mr.  Dana,  along  the  coast  of  San 
Lorenzo.  Many  minerals  were  also  found  by  this  gentleman,  among 
them  gypsum  was  of  frequent  occurrence,  also  some  fossils,  for  which 
information  reference  is  made  to  the  Geological  Report. 

The  hills  and  mountains  to  the  eastward,  joining  the  above  sedi¬ 
mentary  rocks,  are  exclusively  of  granite,  which  extends  in  width  to 
the  distance  of  forty-five  geographical  miles  beyond  Yaso.  In  places 
it  has  very  much  the  appearance  of  a  stratified  rock,  is  much  broken 
and  variable  in  its  character,  so  as  to  render  it  somewhat  deceptive. 
Dr.  Pickering  observes,  that  this  peculiar  character  or  appearance  is 
owing  to  the  slow  process  of  the  decomposition  of  the  rock  in  this  dry 
climate,  and  which  would  in  other  places,  subject  to  the  ordinary 
fluctuations  of  seasons,  be  covered  with  several  feet  of  earth.  The 
same  reasons  will  account  for  the  duration  of  the  Inca  villages  that 
cover  many  of  the  hills,  and  which  a  copious  shower  would  entirely 
wash  away.  The  gfanite  on  its  eastern  side  was  coarse-grained,  pre¬ 
senting  more  of  the  ordinary  appearance  of  that  rock. 

Immediately  eastward  of  the  granite  district  commences  the  trap 
rocks,  consisting  for  the  most  part  of  porphyry.  Dr.  Pickering  traced 
the  line  of  junction  for  some  miles,  the  hills  on  one  side  being  of 
granite,  on  the  other  porphyry.  The  eastern  limit  of  the  trap  region 
is  supposed  to  be  distant  some  twenty  miles  from  the  western.  The 
porphyry  resembles  the  Swedish  and  that  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston. 
Many  porphyry  pebbles,  supposed  to  be  of  this  formation,  were 
found  on  the  beach  at  Callao,  having,  it  is  to  be  presumed,  been 
carried  there  by  the  action  of  the  water-courses. 


■288 


PERU. 


Next  comes  the  plateau  of  the  Cordilleras,  which  is  formed  of  sedi¬ 
mentary  rocks ;  this  includes  the  silver  mines,  and  the  highest  peaks, 
and  is  apparently  of  the  same  age  as  the  coast.  Much  of  the  rock  is 
argillaceous.  At  Banos  an  argillaceous  limestone  was  used  for  burn¬ 
ing,  and  quantities  of  gypsum,  used  for  manure,  was  brought  from  the 
vicinity  of  Casa  Cancha,  some  twenty  miles  to  the  north.  Conglo¬ 
merates  prevailed  over  a  great  portion  of  the  crest  the  party  traversed. 
The  included  pebbles  were  observed  to  be  of  regular  shape,  smooth 
and  polished  as  if  sea-washed.  All  the  party  remarked  the  smooth¬ 
ness  of  the  pebbles  in  the  torrents  of  the  Cordilleras,  which  had  a 
strong  resemblance  to  those  on  the  sea-beach.  From  the  information 
relative  to  the  mines  in  the  Cerro  de  Pasco,  it  will  have  been  per¬ 
ceived  that  blue  limestone,  slate,  and  sandstone,  exist  in  that  vicinity ; 
and  at  the  silver  mines  at  Alpamarca,  a  compact  bluish  rock  was 
observed,  probably  the  limestone ;  it  was  not,  however,  ascertained 
whether  it  was  argillaceous  or  a  pure  limestone.  Dr.  Pickering 
remarks,  that  it  contained  numerous  hard  seams  of  opaque  calcareous 
spar,  with  somewhat  the  lustre  of  “  satin  spar.”  Sandstone  with 
small  pebbles  was  not  uncommon. 

The  bare  spots  of  the  higher  peaks  did  not  present  the  variety  of 
colour  of  the  Chilian  Andes,  but  had  a  uniform  dark  slaty  hue. 
Many  incrustations  were  seen  forming  on  the  rocks  and  plants :  this 
w~as  found  to  be  gypsum. 

Previous  to  our  departure,  I  felt  desirous  of  having  an  excursion 
made  to  the  ruins  of  Pachacamac,  and  having  heard  that  the  landing 
was  easy  and  good,  on  the  inside  of  the  island,  I  sent  the  tender 
Flying-Fish  thither,  with  Dr.  Pickering  and  Lieutenant  Underwood. 

Pachacamac  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  on  this  part  of  the 
coast,  although  it  is  said  it  will  not  compare  with  many  others  in 
various  parts  of  the  country,  especially  at  Cusco. 

They  left  Callao  on  the  afternoon  of  the  28th  of  June,  and  were  at 
anchor  about  midnight  abreast  of  the  place.  At  daylight  the  surf 
was  found  so  heavy  as  to  render  it  dangerous  to  land  in  the  whale¬ 
boat,  By  the  perseverance  of  the  officers,  a  raft  was  formed  of  the 
India-rubber  mattresses  and  oars;  two  balsas  were  also  provided. 
Lieutenant  Underwood  made  the  first  attempt,  and  paddled  himself 
into  the  rollers,  the  first  one  of  which  threw  him  and  the  balsas 
end  over  end.  Shortly  after,  the  raft  was  seen  bottom  up,  the  oar 
broken,  and  the  fragments  sticking  up  in  various  directions,  but  he 
was  missing.  He  soon,  however,  made  his  appearance  at  some  dis- 


PERU. 


289 


tance,  and  just  as  he  reached  the  raft,  a  second  sea  broke  over  him, 
and  he  again  disappeared,  apparently  much  exhausted.  When  the 
third  roller  broke  over  him  he  was  considered  for  a  few  moments  as 
lost ;  and  it  was  no  small  relief  to  see  him  crawling  from  the  water 
up  on  the  beach  a  short  time  afterwards.  The  raft  was  now  pulled 
back  to  the  tender  by  the  line.  In  consequence  of  the  ill  success  of 
this  experiment,  it  was  determined  to  make  a  trial  in  the  whale-boat, 
which  succeeded  without  accident.  Dr.  Pickering  and  Lieutenant 
Underwood  now  proceeded  to  the  temple.  At  the  base  of  the  hills, 
they  found  a  few  cabins  of  Indians,  who  stated  that  they  had  not 
chosen  the  proper  place  for  landing. 

The  Temple  of  Pachacamac,  or  Castle,  as  it  is  called  by  the 
Indians,  is  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  with  three  terraces ;  the  view  of 
it  from  the  north  is  somewhat  like  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula,  given  by 
Humboldt,  except  that  the  flanks  were  perpendicular. 

The  whole  height  of  the  hill  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  that  of 
the  mason- work,  eighty ;  the  form  is  rectangular,  the  base  being  five 
hundred  by  four  hundred  feet.  At  the  southeastern  extremity  the 
three  distinct  terraces  are  not  so  perceptible,  and  the  declivity  is  more 
gentle.  The  walls,  where  great  strength  was  required  to  support  the 
earth,  were  built  of  unhewn  square  blocks  of  rock ;  these  were  cased 
with  sun-dried  brick  (adobes),  which  were  covered  with  a  coating  of 
clay  or  plaster,  and  stained  or  painted  of  a  reddish  colour. 


TEMPLE  AT  PACHACAMAC. 


A  range  of  square  brick  pilasters  projected  from  the  uppermost 
wall,  facing  the  sea,  evidently  belonging  originally  to  the  interior  of  a 
large  apartment.  These  pilasters  gave  it  the  aspect  of  an  Egyptian 
structure.  In  no  other  Peruvian  antiquities  have  pilasters  been  seen 
by  us.  On  one  of  the  northern  terraces  were  also  remains  of  apart¬ 
ments ;  here  the  brick  appeared  more  friable,  owing  to  a  greater 
proportion  of  sand ;  where  they  retained  their  shape,  their  dimensions 
were  nine  inches  in  width  by  six  inches  deep,  varying  in  height  from 
nine  inches  to  two  feet;  and  they  were  laid  so  as  to  break  joint, 
though  not  always  in  a  workmanlike  manner. 

73 


VOL.  I. 


290 


PERU. 


The  remains  of  the  town  occupy  some  undulating  ground,  of  less 
elevation,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  northward.  This  also  forms  a 
rectangle,  one-fifth  by  one-third  of  a  mile  in  size ;  through  the  middle 
runs  lengthwise  a  straight  street,  twenty  feet  in  width.  The  walls  of 
some  of  the  ruins  are  thirty  feet  high,  and  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles.  The  buildings  were  apparently  connected  together,  except 
where  the  streets  intervened.  The  larger  areas  were  again  divided 
by  thinner  partitions,  and  one  of  them  was  observed  to  contain  four 
rectangular  pits,  the  plastering  of  which  appeared  quite  fresh. 

The  annexed  wood-cut  will  give  a  representation  of  the  ground, 
&c. ;  both  are  from  sketches  made  by  Lieutenant  Underwood. 


GROUND  PLAN  OF  PACHACAMAC. 

No  traces  of  doors  or  windows  towards  the  streets  could  be  dis¬ 
covered,  nor  indeed  any  where  else.  The  walls  were  exclusively  of 
sun-dried  brick,  and  their  direction,  northeast  and  southwest,  the 
same  as  those  of  the  temple,  which  fronted  the  sea. 

Some  graves  were  observed  to  the  southward  of  the  temple,  but 
the  principal  burying-ground  was  between  the  temple  and  town. 
Some  of  the  graves  were  rectangular  pits,  lined  with  a  dry  wall  of 
stone,  and  covered  with  layers  of  reeds  and  canes,  on  which  the  earth 
was  filled  in  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  more,  so  as  to  be  even  with  the 
surface.  The  skulls  brought  from  this  place  were  of  various  charac¬ 
ters  ;  the  majority  presented  the  vertical  elevation,  or  raised  occiput, 
the  usual  characteristic  of  the  ancient  Peruvians,  while  others  had 
the  forehead  and  top  of  the  head  depressed.  Eight  of  these  were 
obtained,  and  are  now  deposited  at  Washington.  The  bodies  were 
found  enveloped  in  cloth  of  various  qualities,  and  a  variety  in  its 
colours  still  existed. 

Various  utensils  and  other  articles  were  found,  which  seemed  to 
denote  the  occupation  of  the  individual :  wooden  needles  and  weaving 
utensils ;  netting  made  in  the  usual  style ;  a  sling ;  cordage  of  various 
kinds;  a  sort  of  coarse  basket;  fragments  of  pottery,  and  plated 
stirrups.  They  also  found  various  vegetable  substances:  husks  of 


PERU. 


291 


Indian  corn,  with  ears  of  two  varieties,  one  with  the  grain  slightly 
pointed,  the  other,  the  short  and  black  variety,  which  is  still  very 
commonly  cultivated ;  cotton  seeds ;  small  bunches  of  wool ;  gourd- 
shells,  with  a  square  hole  cut  out,  precisely  as  is  done  at  present. 
These  furnished  evidence  of  the  style  of  the  articles  manufactured 
before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  and  of  the  cultivation  of  the 
vegetable  products ;  when  to  these  we  add  the  native  tuberous  roots 
(among  them  the  potato)  cultivated  in  the  mountains,  and  the  animals 
found  domesticated,  viz.,  the  llama,  dog,  and  Guinea  pig,  and  the 
knowledge  of  at  least  one  metal,  we  may  judge  what  has  since  been 
acquired. 

The  embarkation  of  the  party  was  attended  with  risk,  but  they  all 
got  on  board  the  Flying-Fish  without  accident. 

Mr.  Knox  also  visited  the  island  of  Pachacamac,  during  the  day, 
but  did  not  succeed  in  finding  any  graves.  He  obtained,  however, 
some  interesting  geological  specimens. 

In  a  few  hours  they  again  reached  the  anchorage  at  Callao. 


CHURCH  AT  BANOS. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


CONTENTS. 

SELF-AGGRANDIZEMENT  THE  OBJECT  OF  RULERS  — END  OF  REVOLUTIONARY  WAR  — 
GENERAL  BOLIVAR  DICTATOR— HIS  AUTHORITY  CEASES— GENERAL  LA  MAR  ELECTED— 
GAMARRA’S  TREACHERY— LA  MAR  ARRESTED  AND  BANISHED— GAMARRA  AND  LAFUENTE 
ELECTED— ATTEMPTS  TO  SEIZE  LAFUENTE— HIS  ESCAPE— EXECUTION  OF  MAJOR  ROSEL— 
CONVENTION  CONVOKED  —  GAMARRA  RESIGNS  — ORBEJOSO  ELECTED  —  REVOLUTION  BY 
BERMUDEZ  AND  GAMARRA— BERMUDEZ  CAPTURED— ORBEJOSO’S  AUTHORITY  RESTORED 

—  SALAVERRY  REVOLTS  —  DECLARES  HIMSELF  SUPREME  DICTATOR  —  UNITES  WITH 
GAMARRA— GAMARRA  DEFEATED— ARRESTED  BY  SALAVERRY  AND  BANISHED  — SALA¬ 
VERRY  MARCHES  AGAINST  SANTA  CRUZ  —  BATTLE  OF  SOCABAYA  —  SALAVERRY 
DEFEATED  — TAKEN  PRISONER  —  TRIED  AND  SHOT  —  ORBEJOSO  REINSTATED— TREATY 
WITH  CHILI  NULLIFIED  —  SANTA  CRUZ’S  INTRIGUES  —  DISMEMBERMENT  OF  PERU — 
ASSEMBLY  OF  SICUANI— SANTA  CRUZ  NAMED  SUPREME  PROTECTOR— CONVENTION  OF 
HUARA  — GENERAL  FREYRE  FITS  OUT  AN  EXPEDITION  —  CHILIAN  CONSUL-GENERAL 
EVADES  THE  EMBARGO— SEIZURE  OF  PERUVIAN  VESSELS— NEGOTIATION— CESSATION  OF 
HOSTILITIES  — INVASION  OF  ALTA  PERU  — DISASTROUS  CAMPAIGN— TREATY  OF  PEACE- 
RETURN  OF  CHILIAN  ARMY— CHILIAN  GOVERNMENT  REFUSES  TO  RATIFY  THE  TREATY 

—  LEGION  OF  HONOUR  — DISCONTENT  AT  SANTA  CRUZ’S  POLICY  — WAR  AGAIN  COM¬ 
MENCED  —  EXPEDITION  FROM  CHILI  —  INVASION  OF  PERU  — BATTLE  OF  LIMA  — LIMA 
TAKEN  —  ORBEJOSO  ESCAPES  —  GAMARRA  NAMED  PRESIDENT  — SANTA  CRUZ  MARCHES 
UPON  LIMA— CHILIANS  EMBARK— LAND  AT  HUARA— PURSUED  BY  SANTA  CRUZ— BATTLE 
OF  YUNGAI  — SANTA  CRUZ  TOTALLY  DEFEATED  —  ESCAPES  TO  LIMA  —  THENCE  TO 
AREQUIPA— SEEKS  REFUGE  ON  BOARD  A  BRITISH  SHIP  OF  WAR— BULNES  SAILS  AGAIN 
FOR  CALLAO  —  DISEMBARKS  HIS  TROOPS  —  TAKES  POSSESSION  OF  LIMA  —  CONGRESS 
CONVOKED— GAMARRA  ELECTED  PRESIDENT— RESULTS  OF  BATTLE  OF  YUNGAI— BULNES 
WITH  HIS  ARMY  RETURN  TO  CHILI  —  GAMARRA  GOES  TO  AID  BOLIVIA— PIIS  FORCES 
ROUTED,  AND  HIMSELF  KILLED  —  CHARACTER  OF  BOLIVAR  —  LA  MAR  — GAMARRA  — 
LAFUENTE— ORBEJOSO  — SALAVERRY— SANTA  CRUZ— HIS  ACTS— COMMERCE— PERU  AND 
CHILI— IMPORTS— EXPORTS— TRADE  WITH  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


■ 


CHAPTER  X I Y. 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 

1  839. 

The  history  of  Peru,  during  the  last  twenty  years,  is  involved  in 
even  more  obscurity  than  that  of  Chili.  This  arises  from  the 
frequent  change  of  rulers,  and  the  consequent  alterations  in  policy 
and  government.  The  history  may  be  said  to  he  merged  in 
biographical  memoirs  of  its  several  rulers,  who  have,  without  an 
exception,  acted  for  self-aggrandizement  alone,  without  ever  looking 
to  the  benefit  of  their  country,  its  peace,  or  happiness.  They  have, 
in  their  public  decrees  and  acts,  been  lavish  and  prodigal  of  the 
words  honour,  liberty,  justice,  &c.,  in  order  to  cry  themselves  up, 
and  their  opponents  down.  Yet,  without  exception,  the  moment  they 
have  become  installed,  they  have  pursued  the  very  course  they  before 
reprobated,  and  the  country  has  continued  to  suffer. 

The  victory  of  Ayacucho,  gained  by  General  Sucre  in  December, 
1824,  put  an  end  to  the  war  of  the  revolution,  and  placed  the  whole 
country  in  the  possession  of  the  patriots,  with  the  exception  of  Callao. 
On  the  surrender  of  that  fortress,  January  7th,  1826,  Spanish 
authority  ceased  to  exist  in  South  America.  General  Bolivar  was 
at  this  time  President  of  Colombia,  and  Dictator  of  Peru,  invested 
as  the  latter  with  constitutional  powers,  but  exercising  unlimited 
authority.  Through  his  means,  and  the  troops  of  Colombia,  the 
liberation  of  Peru  had  been  effected,  and  after  that  event,  many 
of  these  troops  were  quartered  in  Lima,  much  to  the  annoyance  of 
the  Peruvians,  who  were  anxious  to  get  rid  of  the  military,  and  the 
expense  of  maintaining  them.  Their  presence,  and  the  cost  of 
supporting  them,  became  the  more  odious,  because  it  was  believed 
they  were  retained  to  support  the  arbitrary  power  of  the  Dictator. 


296 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


In  the  beginning  of  the  year  1827,  the  Peruvians,  through  their 
intrigues,  effected  a  revolt  among  the  Colombian  troops,  who  made 
prisoners  of  their  officers,  and  thus  an  end  was  put  to  the  authority  of 
the  Dictator  Bolivar,  by  which  Peru  was  freed  from  the  presence,  as 
well  as  the  expense,  of  foreign  troops. 

Immediately  after  this  event,  General  La  Mar  was  elected  and 
proclaimed  President  of  Peru.  He  was  a  native  of  Guayaquil, 
reported  to  be  a  mild  and  just  man,  had  been  brought  up  in  the 
Spanish  army,  and  was  attached  to  General  San  Martin ;  but  he 
appears  to  have  been  ill  adapted  to  rule  over  such  a  people  as  the 
Peruvians.  At  first  his  election  was  popular,  and  his  name  took  the 
place  of  that  of  Bolivar  over  all  the  gates,  &c.,  in  the  City  of  Kings. 

At  this  change  every  demonstration  of  joy  was  witnessed.  The 
Colombian  troops  were  sent  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Guayaquil, 
when  they  attempted  a  revolution  against  the  Colombian  authorities 
in  Guaymas  and  Quito,  (about  forming  the  republic  of  Equador,)  in 
which  they  were  partially  successful,  but  were  soon  put  down  by 
General  Flores.  These  acts  led  to  hostilities  between  Colombia  and 
Peru,  and  in  the  beginning  of  1828,  La  Mar  marched  to  the 
frontiers  of  Colombia,  without  any  declaration  of  war,  with  a  part 
of  the  Peruvian  forces,  leaving  General  Gamarra,  a  native  of  Cusco, 
who  had  been  the  cause  of  so  much  revolution  and  bloodshed  in 
Peru,  to  follow  with  a  second  division  of  Peruvian  troops.  At  this 
time  General  Santa  Cruz  (who  had  been  for  a  short  time  President 
of  Peru)  was  President  of  Bolivia,  and  he,  together  with  Gamarra 
and  Lafuente,  conspired  to  overthrow  La  Mar,  after  which  Santa 
Cruz  was  to  be  proclaimed  President  of  Peru,  Gamarra  Vice-Presi¬ 
dent,  and  Lafuente  Minister  of  War. 

With  this  plan  in  view,  Gamarra  joined  La  Mar  on  the  frontiers  of 
Colombia.  The  battle  of  Portete  took  place  soon  afterwards,  when, 
in  consequence  of  the  treachery  or  cowardice  of  Gamarra,  the 
Peruvians  were  beaten,  and  capitulated  on  the  field  of  battle  to 
General  Sucre,  who  was  opposed  to  them  with  a  much  inferior  force 
of  Colombians.  A  treaty  was  signed,  but  was  soon  violated  by  the 
Peruvians,  and  hostilities  again  commenced.  Another  division  of  the 
Peruvian  army,  one  thousand  five  hundred  strong,  which  had  been 
acting  in  Bolivia,  embarked  from  Arica,  under  Lafuente,  to  join  La 
Mar,  in  the  .north.  They  arrived  at  Callao,  and  were  disembarked 
against  La  Mar’s  orders,  and  shortly  after  Lafuente  overthrew  the 
government  at  Lima,  whilst  Gamarra  arrested  La  Mar  in  the  north, 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


297 


and  banished  him  to  Costa  Rica,  in  Central  America,  where  he 
shortly  afterwards  died. 

Lafuente  ejected  all  the  officials,  and  assumed  the  government  in 
the  name  of  Gamarra. 

Gamarra  and  Lafuente,  having  thus  secured  the  army  and  govern¬ 
ment,  overlooked  Santa  Cruz,  and  got  themselves  confirmed,  the 
former  as  President,  the  latter  as  Vice-President  of  Peru.  This 
is  the  secret  and  chief  cause  of  the  great  animosity  and  personal 
hatred  which  existed  between  Gamarra  and  Santa  Cruz,  and  which 
has  led  to  several  years  of  revolutions  and  counter-revolutions  in 
Peru,  as  well  as  to  the  wars  of  Bolivia. 

In  1829,  Gamarra  was  elected  President  for  four  years,  and  is  the 
only  chief  magistrate  who  has  retained  his  office  to  the  end  of  the 
term  for  which  he  was  chosen.  Lafuente  was  at  the  same  time 
elected  Vice-President.  During  the  administration  of  Gamarra, 
there  were  several  attempts  to  revolutionize  the  country,  but  they 
were  suppressed. 

In  the  year  1831,  Gamarra  being  on  the  frontiers  of  Bolivia,  with 
the  army,  he  became  suspicious  that  Lafuente  was  concerned  in  some 
of  the  movements,  and  gave  orders  to  seize  him.  Lafuente  had  little 
notice  of  it,  but  when  the  party  detached  for  the  purpose  arrived  at 
his  quarters  at  night,  Senora  Lafuente,  his  wife,  bolted  the  door,  to 
give  time  for  her  husband  to  escape.  The  officer  in  command, 
before  going  to  the  apartment,  had  stationed  guards  around  the  square 
with  orders  to  shoot  any  one  whom  they  saw  escaping.  On  arriving 
at  the  door  of  the  chamber  he  found  it  bolted,  and  ordered  it  to  be 
opened.  This  was  done  by  Senora  Lafuente,  after  her  husband  had 
effected  his  escape  through  the  window.  The  officer,  eager  in  pur¬ 
suit,  followed,  but  mistaking  the  course  of  flight,  got  upon  the  roofs 
of  the  houses,  where  he  was  seen  by  his  own  soldiers,  who,  true 
to  their  orders,  fired  and  shot  him  dead.  Lafuente,  thus  saved  by 
the  good  management  of  his  wife,  escaped  to  Callao,  where  he  found 
an  asylum  on  board  the  United  States’  ship  St.  Louis,  then  lying  in 
the  roads.  Thence  he  went  to  Chili,  and  from  Chili  to  Bolivia, 
where  he  became  reconciled  to  Santa  Cruz,  and  endeavoured  to 
obtain  aid  from  him  to  overthrow  Gamarra. 

Another  conspiracy  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  by  Gamarra  in 
1832,  in  which  Major  Rosel  w*as  suspected  of  being  the  leader.  He  was 
then  commander  of  a  regiment,  and  the  plot  was  believed  to  involve 
the  seizure  of  the  President’s  person.  Some  colour  is  supposed  to 

75 


VO  L.  I. 


298 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


have  been  given  to  this  suspicion  by  the  fact  that  Rosel  drilled  his 
men  at  an  unusual  hour,  and  apparently  kept  them  in  readiness  for 
active  duty.  On  the  18th  of  January,  while  at  his  quarters  in  the 
evening,  he  was  seized,  disarmed,  tried  on  the  spot,  and  shot  on  the 
following  morning.  It  is  believed  that  this,  as  well  as  many  other 
supposed  conspiracies,  existed  only  in  Gamarra’s  own  fears  or  sus¬ 
picions.  The  summary  manner,  however,  in  which  he  treated  all 
who  showed  any  thing  approaching  a  rebellious  spirit,  kept  the 
disaffected  within  bounds.  Among  other  persons,  his  suspicions  fell 
upon  the  President  of  the  Senate  and  acting  Vice-President,  Manuel 
Telluria,  who  was  seized,  carried  to  Callao,  forced  on  board  a  small 
vessel  of  war,  and  transported  to  Panama. 

In  July,  1833,  just  at  the  close  of  Gamarra’s  term  of  office,  the 
convention  which  had  been  provided  for  by  the  Constitution  of  1828, 
was  convoked  to  meet  at  Lima,  there  to  amend  the  constitution.  It 
was  still  in  session  when  his  term  expired,  on  the  20th  December, 
1833.  On  the  19th  he  sent  in  his  resignation  to  the  National  Con¬ 
vention,  and  issued  an  address  to  the  people,  announcing  that  the 
wished-for  day  had  arrived  when  he  could  retire  to  private  life.  This 
was  well  known  to  be  false,  for  at  the  same  time  he  was  making  these 
protestations,  he  was  doing  every  thing  in  his  power  to  secure  his 
re-election.  Gamarra  had  become  extremely  unpopular,  and  through¬ 
out  the  country  was  accused  of  injustice  and  tyranny.  News  of 
revolts  were  reaching  the  capital  (Lima)  every  day,  both  from  the 
north  and  south,  and  only  a  short  time  before  his  term  expired,  he 
had  gone  south  to  quell  one  at  Ayacucho. 

At  the  time  of  the  expiration  of  his  term  of  office,  the  electoral 
college  for  the  choice  of  a  president  had  not  met,  in  consequence  of 
some  informality  in  the  election  of  its  members ;  and  as  no  constitu¬ 
tional  election  could  be  obtained,  the  Convention,  with  the  sanction  of 
Gamarra,  balloted  for  a  provisional  president,  until  the  election  should 
take  place,  and  the  choice  fell  upon  General  Don  Luiz  Orbejoso,  in 
opposition  to  Bermudez,  who  was  a  creature  of  Gamarra’s,  Gamarra 
himself,  by  the  constitution,  not  being  re-eligible. 

Soon  after  Orbejoso  was  elected,  Bermudez,  instigated  and  aided 
by  Gamarra,  on  a  plea  of  the  unconstitutionality  of  the  election, 
effected  a  revolution  in  Lima.  This  took  place  on  the  18th  of 
January,  1834,  when  the  Convention  was  dispersed  at  the  point  of 
the  bayonet ;  many  lives  were  lost,  and  Orbejoso  fled  to  the  Castle  of 
Callao.  The  people  of  Lima  on  this  occasion  showed  some  spirit, 


..POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


299 


and  took  part  in  the  affray,  which  was  quite  unlooked  for,  as  they 
had  generally  been  in  the  habit  of  retiring  to  their  houses,  and 
allowing  the  contending  parties  to  settle  the  strife.  In  a  few  days 
they  rose  upon  the  soldiers  of  Bermudez,  whom  they  compelled  to 
evacuate  the  city  and  retire  beyond  the  mountains,  where  they  soon 
after  capitulated,  and  Orbejoso’s  authority  was  re-established.  Ga¬ 
marra  fled  to  Bolivia,  and  was  protected  by  Santa  Cruz. 

During  this  insurrection,  Lafuente  again  returned  to  Peru,  and, 
being  detected  or  suspected  of  intriguing  to  get  himself  named 
President,  was  banished  by  Orbejoso.  He  retired  to  Chili  to  await 
events. 

In  February,  1835,  during  Orbejoso’s  absence  to  the  south,  General 
Salaverry,  who  was  in  command  of  the  Castle  at  Callao,  revolted, 
seized  upon  the  government,  and  declared  himself  supreme  chief.  In 
June  he  issued  a  decree  appointing  a  council  of  state,  consisting  of 
twenty-four  members,  of  which  he  was  president,  and  began  to 
exercise  the  most  despotic  authority.  Orbejoso  had,  in  the  mean 
time,  sent  to  demand  aid  of  Santa  Cruz  to  put  the  insurrection  down. 
The  council  of  government  had  during  the  previous  rebellion  of 
Bermudez,  invested  Orbejoso  with  extraordinary  powers,  especially 
authorizing  him  to  call  upon  Santa  Cruz,  President  of  Bolivia,  for  aid 
to  quell  the  insurrection  in  Peru;  but  Bermudez  had  capitulated 
before  Santa  Cruz  was  called  upon  to  act.  After  the  rebellion  of 
Salaverry,  Orbejoso  assumed  those  powers.  In  the  mean  time  Sala¬ 
verry  went  on  committing  acts  of  cruelty  and  oppression. 

Gamarra,  always  on  the  watch,  now  made  his  appearance,  in  the 
hopes  of  again  raising  himself  to  power.  He  had  fled  from  Bolivia, 
and  had  collected  about  fifteen  hundred  men,  to  make  war  upon 
Orbejoso,  when  he  issued  a  proclamation  in  May,  1835.  Sala¬ 
verry,  however,  knowing  that  Gamarra  was  entirely  influenced  by 
interested  motives,  declared  him  an  outlaw,  and  prepared  to  march 
against  him ;  but  on  learning  that  Santa  Cruz  was  marching  on  Peru 
with  three  thousand  Bolivian  troops,  he  immediately  treated  with 
Gamarra,  and  they  agreed  to  act  together  against  Orbejoso  and  his 
new  ally.  Before  they  could  unite  their  forces,  Santa  Cruz  attacked 
and  completely  routed  Gamarra’s  troops,  who  fled  almost  alone  to 
Lima,  where  Salaverry  soon  after  arrested  him  and  sent  him  to  Cen¬ 
tral  America,  whence  he  proceeded  to  Chili,  to  carry  on  his  intrigues 
to  keep  Peru  in  a  state  of  civil  war.  Salaverry  now  marched  against 
Santa  Cruz ;  they  met  near  Arequipa,  and  the  battle  of  Socabaya  was 


300 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


fought,  where  Salaverry  was  completely  defeated,  and  taken  prisoner 
while  attempting  to  gain  his  vessels  at  Islay.  He  was  immediately 
tried  by  a  military  commission,  and  with  his  principal  officers  shot  at 
Arequipa.  The  career  of  Salaverry  was  short,  but  unexampled  in 
Peru  for  its  activity  and  energy.  His  fate  excited  no  sympathy,  for 
he  had  committed  some  of  the  most  barbarous  acts,  executing  persons 
without  trial,  upon  the  slightest  suspicion  of  being  disaffected  to  his 
authority. 

Orbejoso,  on  being  reinstated  by  the  aid  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  the 
insurrection  being  put  down,  called  an  assembly  of  the  deputies  at  the 
town  of  Sicuani,  and  set  about  punishing  all  who  had  taken  part  or 
served  in  any  manner  during  the  rebellion  of  Salaverry. 

The  nullification  of  the  treaty  with  Chili  is  said  to  have  been 
brought  about  by  the  advice  of  Gavia  del  Rio,  who  was  supposed  to 
be  somewhat  under  the  influence  of  Santa  Cruz.  He  made  use  of 
.the  argument,  that  it  contained  stipulations  injurious  to,  and  contrary 
to  the  policy  of  Peru,  which  was  to  endeavour  to  promote  direct  inter¬ 
course  with  all  nations,  a  policy  which  outweighed  all  the  advantages 
that  could  be  derived  from  Chili. 

In  1836,  General  Herrera  was  received  as  ambassador  from  Bolivia 
by  Orbejoso,  and  with  General  Moran,  who  commanded  the  troops, 
seems  to  have  exerted  a  great  influence  over  Orbejoso.  He  entered 
into  an  offensive  and  defensive  alliance  with  Bolivia,  which  gave  all 
the  ascendency  to  Bolivia,  or  rather  to  Santa  Cruz,  engaging  that  the 
Bolivian  army  should  remain  in  Peru  until  peace  should  be  esta¬ 
blished  at  the  north.  From  this  it  was  evident  that  Peru  was  ruled 
by  strangers,  and  that  her  interests  were  forgotten.  The  people, 
therefore,  soon  became  dissatisfied  with  the  administration  of  Orbe¬ 
joso,  and  when  he  desired  a  new  election  of  deputies,  they  in  many 
of  the  towns  refused  to  vote,  believing  that  his  object  was  none  other 
than  to  secure  himself  a  re-election  by  the  Assembly. 

He  dismembered  the  eight  provinces  of  Peru,  by  declaring  that 
four  of  them  should  be  known  hereafter  under  the  name  of  South 
Peru,  composed  of  the  departments  of  Arequipa,  Ayacucho,  Cusco, 
and  Puno.  Nothing  can  be  more  absurd  than  the  way  in  which  he 
seems  to  have  conducted  the  government,  and  the  bombastic  and 
foolish  tone  of  his  decrees,  wherein  he  is  styled,  or  styles  himself, 
“  Citizen,  Don  Louis  Orbejoso,  Great  Hero  and  meritorious  General 
of  divisions,  and  Grand  Marshal  of  the  State  of  South  Peru.” 

The  Assembly  of  Sicuani  met  on  the  17th  March,  when  it  con- 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


301 


ferred  upon  Santa  Cruz  the  title  of  Supreme  Protector  of  South 
Peru,  consisting  of  the  four  above  mentioned  provinces  of  Arequipa, 
Cusco,  Ayacucho,  and  Puno.  At  the  same  time  every  power  was 
given  him  over  the  state,  as  well  as  to  call  a  legislature  to  convene 
as  soon  as  he  should  think  proper.  This  was  virtually  extending  his 
power  over  the  half  of  Peru  next  bordering  on  Bolivia,  and  was  the 
first  step  towards  making  him  head  of  both  states.  The  assembly 
likewise  passed  great  encomiums  on  the  Bolivian  army,  awarding  to 
them  medals  and  thanks.  On  Santa  Cruz  it  conferred  the  title  of 
Invincible  Pacificator  of  Peru,  and  voted  that  his  equestrian  statue 
should  be  erected  on  the  field  of  Socabaya,  that  his  portrait  should  be 
hung  up  in  their  hall,  and  in  all  the  tribunals  and  public  offices  of 
the  republic.  The  next  act  was  to  pass  a  resolution  to  appoint  a 
committee  to  wait  upon  Santa  Cruz,  to  present  him  with  the  declara¬ 
tion  of  independence,  and  to  state  to  him  the  desire  they  had  to  invest 
him  with  the  Supreme  Protectorate,  awarding  to  him  likewise  a 
salary  of  thirty  thousand  dollars  a  year  for  the  expenses  of  his  exalted 
situation. 

On  the  19th  the  Assembly  approved  of  the  treaty  entered  into 
between  Orbejoso  and  Santa  Cruz. 

The  Assembly  of  Sicuani  was  but  four  days  in  session  !  !  and  its 
whole  object  seems  to  have  been  to  confer  titles  and  honours  on  Santa 
Cruz,  instead  of  looking  into  the  affairs  of  the  state.  This  must 
strike  any  one  as  having  been  a  ridiculous  boyish  farce,  and  it  cannot 
be  a  matter  of  surprise  that  the  South  Americans  should  rather  be 
retrograding  than  advancing,  when  one  takes  into  consideration 
such  acts. 

On  the  3d  August,  1836,  the  Convention  of  Huara  (which  had 
been  previously  summoned)  met.  After  being  organized,  it  received 
messages  from  the  provisional  President,  and  the  Supreme  Protector 
by  his  plenipotentiary,  who  submitted  three  projects  for  an  organic 
law,  to  the  Assembly,  for  the  purpose  of  uniting  Peru  and  Bolivia 
under  one  head.  It  proposed  to  form  them  into  the  three  fede¬ 
rative  states  of  Bolivia,  North  and  South  Peru,  each  to  have  a 
president,  and  all  to  be  under  the  Supreme  Protector,  who  was 
named  for  life.  The  chief  difficulty  the  Convention  had  to  overcome, 
was  whether  a  successor  to  the  Protector,  in  case  of  his  death  or 
infirmity,  should  be  named,  and  whether  Orbejoso  should  be  the 
party.  During  the  pendency  of  this  question,  Orbejoso  sent  word  to 
the  Assembly,  through  the  minister,  that  they  might  desist  from  the 

76 


VOL.  X. 


302 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


project  of  his  becoming  the  successor  of  the  Protector.  This  great 
difficulty  having  been  given  the  go-by,  the  organic  law  was  passed, 
organizing  the  four  remaining  provinces  under  the  title  of  North  Peru. 
At  the  same  time,  the  act  that  had  been  passed  by  the  Convention  at 
Sicuani,  establishing  the  state  of  South  Peru,  was  confirmed.  At 
this  session,  Orbejoso  was  made  a  grand  marshal,  the  pay  of  that 
rank  was  voted  to  him,  and  also  a  clasp  for  a  sword-belt  set  with 
diamonds,  with  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  money.  A  monu¬ 
ment  to  Santa  Cruz  in  one  of  the  Alamedas  in  Lima  was  provided 
for,  with  a  gold  sword  inlaid  with  diamonds,  and  one  hundred 
thousand  dollars  to  his  wife  as  pin-money.  This  convention  was 
only  in  session  three  days  ! !  It  may  very  well  be  imagined  what  the 
people  of  Lima  thought  of  these  acts,  by  the  fact  that  on  the  13th 
August,  Orbejoso  returned  to  Lima,  without  receiving  any  attentions 
whatever.  Orbejoso  had  previous  to  this  time  adopted  the  novel  plan 
of  chartering  (aumdamiento)  the  government  vessels  of  war,  consider¬ 
ing  they  had  no  longer  any  use  for  them ;  when  General  Freyre, 
the  former  director  of  Chili,  who  it  has  been  mentioned  was  banished 
from  that  country,  and  was  residing  in  Lima,  engaged  the  two 
frigates  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  descent  on  Chili.  All  the 
Chilians  who  had  been  banished,  united  with  him,  and  it  is  believed 
that  Orbejoso  favoured  and  aided  the  project  by  money  as  well  as 
advice.  A  similar  belief  was  entertained  in  relation  to  Santa  Cruz, 
although  he  denied  it,  to  suit  his  purposes. 

Peru  and  Bolivia  thus  became  one  government,  under  the  name  of 
the  Peru-Bolivian  Confederation,  and  Santa  Cruz  was  declared 
Supreme  Protector  for  life,  with  almost  unlimited  authority.  This 
was  an  unpopular  measure  in  Peru,  who  complained  that  her  inde¬ 
pendence  had  been  bartered  for  foreign  aid.  There  was  little  to 
unite  her  to  Bolivia,  no  common  interest,  and  but  little  commercial 
intercourse  to  cement  a  union.  Bolivia,  on  the  other  hand,  saw 
herself  involved  in  quarrels  in  which  she  had  no  interest ;  moreover, 
Chili  and  E  quad  or  became  suspicious,  and  jealous  of  the  ambitious 
projects  of  the  Protector  of  the  new  Confederation ;  while  the 
misunderstanding  respecting  the  treaty,  and  the  restrictions  that 
were  put  on  her  commerce,  tended  to  widen  the  breach  with  Chili. 

The  Protector,  on  his  arrival  in  Lima,  was  received  with  great 
rejoicings,  &c.  One  of  his  first  acts  was  to  impose  a  discriminating 
and  additional  duty  on  all  goods  introduced  into  the  ports  of  the 
Confederation,  when  imported  in  vessels  having  touched  at  a  Chilian 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


303 


port,  with  the  ostensible  object  of  encouraging  a  direct  trade  from 
Europe  and  the  United  States,  to  Peru  and  Bolivia.  The  Chilians 
took  great  offence  at  this  act.  Peru  in  her  struggle  for  independence 
had  received  much  assistance,  first  from  Chili,  and  then  from 
Colombia,  and  was  in  debt  to  both  for  the  expense  of  the  war.  This 
very  aid  produced  its  usual  consequences,  by  creating  those  feelings 
of  hostility  which  the  ungrateful  indulge  in  towards  their  benefactors. 

It  soon  became  apparent  that  the  vessels  of  war  were  chartered  by 
General  Freyre,  who  embarked  in  them  with  a  number  of  the  dis¬ 
contented  Chilians  who  were  in  exile,  and  about  two  hundred  soldiers. 
This  was  done  secretly,  but  the  Chilian  consul-general  contriving  to 
get  the  information,  as  has  been  related,  despatched  a  vessel  to  notify 
his  government,  before  an  embargo  was  laid.  We  have  heretofore 
seen,  in  the  chapter  which  treats  of  the  affairs  of  Chili,  how  the 
whole  affair  was  frustrated,  and  how  Freyre  and  the  others  were 
taken  prisoners. 

The  party  in  power  in  Chili  had  always  been  opposed  to  Santa 
Cruz  personally,  and  believed  that  he  had  planned  and  aided  the 
attempt  to  revolutionize  Chili.  Under  pretence  therefore  of  danger 
from  the  preponderating  influence  of  the  Peru-Bolivian  Confedera¬ 
tion,  under  so  ambitious  and  intriguing  a  head,  they  resolved  on 
war.  For  this  purpose  they  deemed  it  necessary  to  secure  the 
command  of  the  sea,  and  they  sent  two  vessels  of  war  to  Callao, 
ostensibly  on  a  friendly  mission,  but  with  secret  orders  to  cut  out  the 
Peruvian  vessels  of  war,  then  undergoing  repairs  in  that  port.  This 
perfidious  act  was  successfully  perpetrated,  and  the  next  day  Santa 
Cruz  ordered  the  arrest  of  La  Valle,  the  resident  Chilian  consul- 
general  in  Lima,  but  released  him  in  an  hour  or  two,  and  sent  him 
his  passport. 

Negotiations  were  entered  into,  and  resulted,  as  we  have  before 
seen,  through  the  intercession  of  the  English  diplomatic  agent,  in  a 
convention  and  a  cessation  of  hostilities  for  four  months.  It  was 
evident  from  the  first  that  no  peace  would  ensue ;  both  parties  had 
done  wrong,  and  it  is  believed  that  neither  wished  for  peace.  Chili 
having  now  become  mistress  of  the  sea,  saw  no  difficulty  in  carrying 
on  the  war.  Accordingly,  three  thousand  men  were  embarked,  landed 
in  South  Peru,  and  marched  for  Arequipa,  where  they  were  speedily 
cooped  up,  left  without  resources,  and  surrounded  by  superior  forces, 
daily  augmenting  under  Santa  Cruz.  He  finding  the  war  unpopular 
in  Peru,  was  desirous  of  making  peace,  and  waived  all  the  advantages 


304 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


of  his  position  to  make  a  treaty,  which  was  entered  into  whilst  the 
troops  were  drawn  np  in  order  of  battle.  This  treaty  was  highly 
honourable  to  both  nations.  By  it  the  Chilians  were  allowed  to 
re-embark,  on  condition  of  returning  to  their  own  country,  and 
afterwards  giving  up  the  plundered  vessels  to  Peru.  The  troops 
returned  to  Chili,  but  the  Chilian  government  refused  to  ratify  the 
treaty,  which  is  known  as  that  of  Paucarpata. 

Santa  Cruz  now  instituted  the  Legion  of  Honour,  in  order  to 
reward  all  those  who  had  served  with  him  in  his  campaigns,  and 
annexed  a  certain  compensation,  which  amounted  to  an  annual 
charge  upon  the  state  of  fifty  thousand  dollars. 

Great  complaints  were  made  by  the  Peruvians  against  Santa  Cruz 
for  appointing  so  many  foreigners  to  office,  and  for  inveigling  the 
Peruvians  who  were  opposed  to  him  into  the  country,  and  then 
placing  them  under  surveillance.  These  measures  gave  great  dis¬ 
satisfaction,  and  made  him  so  unpopular  that  they  became  at  once 
desirous  of  throwing  off  the  connexion  with  Bolivia,  which  it  was 
now  evident  Santa  Cruz’s  ambition  had  brought  about. 

He  had  besides  given  public  notice  in  writing  to  the  consul- 
general  of  Great  Britain,  and  of  other  nations,  requesting  them  to 
communicate  from  time  to  time  their  views  and  information  relative 
to  commercial  matters.  This,  in  the  opinion  of  the  Peruvians,  had 
the  effect  of  giving  to  foreigners  undue  participation  in  the  govern¬ 
ment.  Even  his  friends  considered  that  he  might  have  obtained  all 
the  information  without  calling  upon  them  in  so  public  a  manner  for 
it,  and  thus  exciting  the  jealousy  of  the  Peruvians.  He  also  issued  a 
decree  opening  the  ports  of  Bolivia  and  Peru  to  the  Spanish  flag. 
However  wise  the  latter  measure  might  have  been  in  a  commercial 
point  of  view,  it  was  ill-timed,  for  the  prejudices  against  the  old 
Spaniards  are  yet  extremely  strong  in  South  America,  and  especially 
in  Peru. 

Santa  Cruz’s  policy  seems  to  have  been  to  attach,  foreigners  to  his 
person  and  government,  and  they  for  the  most  part  spoke  favourably 
of  him;  but  as  he  gained  ground  with  them  he  lost  it  with  his 
countrymen,  and  those  who  were  and  ought  to  have  been  his 
supporters  felt  chagrined  and  mortified  to  see  him  pursue  such  a 
course.  The  Peruvians  are  conceited,  proud,  and  destitute  of  that 
education  and  knowledge  which  would  enable  them  to  understand 
the  necessity  of  asking  foreigners  for  advice  respecting  their  com¬ 
mercial  regulations. 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


305 


Santa  Cruz,  believing  himself  firmly  established  in  Peru,  was 
-  desirous  of  seeking  popularity  abroad,  and  for  this  purpose  wished 
to  have  it  understood  that  he  was  disposed  to  encourage  trade  with 
foreign  nations. 

Chili  again  despatched  to  Peru  the  same  troops,  augmented  by 
reinforcements,  under  the  command  of  General  Bulnes.  With  them, 
as  in  the  former  expedition,  came  the  proscribed  Peruvians,  among 
whom  was  General  Gamarra. 

Previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  Chilian  expedition,  Orbejoso,  who 
had  been  appointed,  by  Santa  Cruz,  President  of  North  Peru, 
revolted  against  his  authority,  and  declared  the  confederation  dis¬ 
solved.  In  this  he  was  joined  by  General  Nieto.  Orbejoso,  however, 
opposed  the  Chilians,  and  declined  their  assistance,  telling  them  that 
if  they  were  seeking  Santa  Cruz  they  might  seek  for  him  somewhere 
else.  Bulnes  replied  that  he  must  remain ;  disembarked  his  troops, 
and  encamped  near  Lima.  The  next  morning,  as  one  of  his  regi¬ 
ments  was  removing  to  a  more  favourable  position  for  water,  Orbejoso 
thought  that  he  intended  an  attack,  and,  determining  to  anticipate  it, 
marched  against  him,  ordering  General  Nieto  to  follow.  The  latter 
wishing  to  play  chief,  kept  back.  Bulnes,  finding  himself  unexpect¬ 
edly  attacked,  ordered  an  advance  on  the  Peruvians,  drove  them 
before  him,  and  after  the  battle*  entered  Lima  with  his  troops,  where 
he  maintained  himself.  Orbejoso,  after  his  defeat  under  the  walls  of 
Lima,  secreted  himself  in  that  city,  and  from  thence,  in  a  few  days, 
fled  to  the  Castle  of  Callao,  where  he  remained  until  Santa  Cruz 
again  entered  Lima.  He  then  embarked  for  Guayaquil,  where  he 
still  remains.  Nieto  sought  an  asylum  on  board  one  of  the  foreign 
ships  of  war  lying  in  the  bay  of  Callao,  as  has  been  customary  in 
their  revolutions. 

The  day  after  the  Chilians  entered  Lima,  Gamarra  succeeded  in 
getting  himself  proclaimed  President  of  Peru,  by  a  few  of  his 
minions  under  the  bayonets  of  Chili,  and  exercised  his  authority  as 
far  as  their  influence  extended. 

At  the  time  of  these  occurrences,  Santa  Cruz  was  in  Bolivia, 
when,  on  learning  the  treachery  of  Orbejoso,  and  the  occupation  of 


*  This  was  witnessed  by  many  persons  from  the  house-tops  and  steeples,  who  repre¬ 
sent  it  as  little  better  than  a  massacre ;  scenes  occurred  that  were  revolting  to  the  sio-ht. 

O  O 

The  history  of  this  so-called  battle  will  be  a  dark  spot  on  the  escutcheons  of  both  Chili 
and  Peru,  if  the  truth  is  ever  told. 


von.  i. 


77 


306 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


Lima  by  the  Chilians,  he  collected  his  force  in  the  valley  of  Janja, 
and  marched  to  join  General  Moran,  called  the  Murat  of  Peru, 
who  was  encamped  within  three  days’  march  of  Lima,  with  three 
thousand  men,  and  awaiting  him.  Santa  Cruz  approached  Lima, 
after  having  effected  his  junction  with  Moran.  He  moved  on 
confident  of  success,  with  his  well-appointed  force,  a  host  of  mar¬ 
shals  and  generals  in  his  suite,  and  boasted  that  the  Chilians  would 
soon  be  in  a  worse  situation  than  when  the  treaty  of  Paucarpata  was 
signed.  Baines,  on  the  approach  of  Santa  Cruz,  retired,  leaving 
Lima  the  day  before  Santa  Cruz  entered  it,  embarked  his  troops  in 
the  fleet,  and  sailing  north,  landed  near  Huara,  in  the  department  of 
Truxillo.  This  much  increased  the  confidence  of  the  Peruvians, 
who  now  considered  the  Chilians  as  already  captured.  Believing 
that  as  the  rains  had  commenced,  the  Chilians  had  gone  into  quarters 
for  the  winter,  Santa  Cruz  determined  to  pursue  them  by  land, 
with  which  intent  he  made  forced  marches,  through  fog  and  rain,  and 
overtook  the  Chilian  army  at  Huara,  where  he  encamped  in  a  strong 
position.  He  considered  his  enemy  to  be  in  so  bad  a  plight,  that  he 
was  sure  of  overcoming  them  with  ease,  and  it  is  said  wrote  to  his 
ministers  at  Lima,  in  imitation  of  Bonaparte,  (whom  he  seems  to 
have  taken  as  his  model,)  “Ah!  these  Chilians,  I  have  caught  them!” 
His  intention  was  to  attack  them  as  soon  as  his  soldiers  had  rested 
after  their  fatiguing  march.  The  Chilians  did  not  give  him  leisure 
for  this,  but  to  the  surprise  of  Santa  Cruz,  attacked  him  in  his 
trenches.  One  of  the  most  sanguinary  battles  recorded  in  South 
American  history  ensued;  Santa  Cruz  was  signally  defeated,  and 
barely  escaped  with  his  life,  accompanied  by  no  more  than  twenty 
soldiers.  His  whole  army  was  entirely  cut  up,  two  of  his  generals 
killed,  and  three  taken  prisoners.  This  battle  decided  the  fate  of  the 
Peru-Bolivian  Confederation.  Santa  Cruz  was  the  first  to  take  the 
new's  to  Lima.  He  was  joined  there  by  Moran,  whom  he  placed  in 
the  Castle  of  Callao,  with  orders  to  hold  out  four  months,  previous  to 
which  time  he  would  bring  relief,  and  reinstate  himself  in  authority. 
He  was  proceeding  to  Arequipa,  when  news  reached  him  that  General 
Ballevian,  the  Bolivian  commander-in-chief,  had  declared  against  him 
in  Bolivia,  and  also  that  General  Velasco  wTas  named  President;  lastly, 
Arequipa,  the  faithful  Arequipa,  deserted  him  wfith  all  his  officers, 
with  one  or  two  exceptions.  Every  where  his  life  was  cried  for;  he 
had  but  time  to  mount  his  horse  and  fly  to  Islay,  accompanied  by 
General  Miller,  Cardeno,  and  Garcia  del  Rio,  who  still  adhered  to 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


307 


him.  They  were  hotly  pursued  by  a  troop  of  cavalry,  and  arrived 
just  in  time  to  get  on  board  the  British  sloop-of-war  Samarang,  which 
was  lying  in  the  roadstead.  Here  the  Protector  found  a  resting- 
place,  and  is  said  to  have  felt  himself  greatly  relieved  from  the 
incessant  troubles  he  had  been  engaged  in  for  the  last  three  years. 
Thus  ended  his  political  career.  He  was  taken  to  Guayaquil,  where 
he  has  since  remained,  forming  new  plans  to  involve  his  country  in 
war,  for  his  own  personal  aggrandizement.  He  had  promised  better 
for  Peru  than  any  other  ruler  before  him,  hut  his  ambition  destroyed 
all  the  plans  he  had  formed  for  his  country’s  good,  and  he  ended  by 
entailing  upon  her  many  difficulties  and  troubles  that  will  take  a 
long  time  to  overcome. 

Bulnes,  after  his  victory  of  Yungai,  immediately  embarked  and 
sailed  for  Callao,  where  he  again  disembarked,  and  took  possession  of 
Lima.  Gamarra,  as  I  have  before  said,  was  proclaimed  President,  by 
a  Congress  convoked  by  himself,  which  voted  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet.  This  has  not  been  unusual  in  South  America,  and  all  the 
acts  of  the  Congresses  may  in  fact  be  called  the  sole  will  of  the 
chief  magistrate,  under  whatever  title  they  may  be  issued.  Besides 
naming  Gamarra  President,  this  Congress  inflicted  upon  the  people 
a  new  constitution  by  his  direction. 

The  battle  of  Yungai,  which  took  place  on  the  20th  January,  1839, 
concluded  the  war  with  Santa  Cruz,  and  entirely  overthrew"  his 
power  by  the  loss  of  his  whole  army  (in  these  countries  a  very  few 
troops  bear  the  name).  In  this  battle  there  were  four  thousand  two 
hundred  Chilians,  and  four  thousand  five  hundred  Peru-Bolivians 
engaged.  Fifteen  hundred  of  the  former,  and  two  thousand  of  the 
latter,  were  left  dead  on  the  field ;  the  wounded  Chilians  were 
numerous,  but  those  of  the  Peru-Bolivians  were  said  to  have  been 
put  to  death  in  the  rout  which  ensued.  The  battle  began  at  six 
o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  was  contested  for  six  and  a  half  hours. 
The  Peru-Bolivians  complain  that  at  its  commencement  great  advan¬ 
tages  were  lost  to  them  by  the  conduct  of  Colonel  Guilaste,  who,  with 
seven  hundred  men,  betrayed  his  trust,  and  early  decided  the  fate  of 
the  battle.  It  is  said  that  every  soldier  on  both  sides  fought  “  upon 
his  own  hook,”  and  continued  the  battle  as  long  as  he  chose,  the 
officers  having  little  or  no  control  over  their  men.  Indeed,  I  heard 
it  repeatedly  said,  that  the  troops  commanded  the  officers,  and  not 
the  officers  the  troops.  If  it  had  not  been  so,  many  of  the  acts  of 
barbarity  and  cruelty  that  are  represented  upon  good  authority  as 


308 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU.. 


having  occurred,  would  not  have  taken  place.  These  I  cannot  but 
consider  as  destroying  all  the  glory  of  the  day  to  the  Chilians,  whose 
avowed  object  in  coming  to  Peru,  was  to  make  war  against  Santa 
Cruz,  and  not  against  the  Peruvians. 

Gamarra  was  now  established  firmly  in  Peru,  and  the  confederation 
broken  up.  Bulnes  and  his  forces  returned  to  Chili,  where  he  has 
since  been  elevated  to  the  highest  office  of  the  republic  (that  of  Pre¬ 
sident);  thus  ended  the  year  1839. 

In  1840,  Bolivia,  after  the  overthrow  of  Santa  Cruz,  became  the 
prey  of  rival  factions,  and  Gamarra  was  invited  to  come  with  an  armed 
force  and  settle  their  disputes.  No  sooner,  however,  had  he  reached 
Bolivia,  than  the  rival  chiefs,  forgetting  their  own  quarrels,  united, 
for  their  animosity  against  him  exceeded  their  own  little  jealousies. 
They  attacked  him  at  disadvantage,  and  completely  routed  his  forces. 
He  himself  was  killed  in  his  flight  from  the  field  of  battle.  The 
Bolivians  in  their  turn  now  invaded  Peru,  but  through  the  mediation 
of  Chili,  a  peace  was  brought  about,  which  left  both  Peru  and  Bolivia 
in  a  state  of  great  anarchy  and  confusion :  all  the  men  of  any  note 
endeavouring  to  create  a  party  for  themselves. 

The  above  sketch  of  the  history  of  Peru  has  been  obtained  from 
persons  long  resident  and  eye-witnesses  of  many  of  the  scenes,  and 
the  few  official  documents  that  have  been  from  time  to  time  published. 

To  complete  the  history  of  the  misgovernment  of  Peru,  I  will  now 
add  short  biographical  sketches  of  the  chiefs  who  have  been  the 
principal  actors  in  all  these  troubles  and  revolutions,  obtained  from 
those  who  were  personally  acquainted  with  most  of  them. 

In  the  order  of  events,  as  they  have  occurred,  Bolivar  stands  first ; 
his  history  is,  however,  too  well  known  to  need  any  detail.  He  un¬ 
doubtedly  had  talents,  and  was  at  first  an  honest  and  conscientious 
patriot.  He  split  upon  the  rock  that  had  already  wrecked  so  many 
before  him.  His  desire  of  personal  aggrandizement  made  him  forget 
that  he  set  out  to  promote  the  welfare  and  happiness  of  his  country. 
He  consequently  fell  a  victim  to  his  disappointed  ambition,  and  for 
many  years  previous  to  his  death,  accused  his  country,  which  he 
believed  to  be  indebted  to  him,  of  ingratitude,  for  not  preferring  his 
interests  to  its  own  happiness.  Notwithstanding  his  many  faults, 
posterity  will  give  him  due  credit  for  his  actions.  This,  however, 
does  not  satisfy  the  South  Americans.  Their  taste  and  customs  lead 
them  to  desire  present  gratification  rather  than  posthumous  fame.  It 
is  remarkable,  that  not  one  of  the  men  that  the  revolutions  in  South 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


309 


America  have  brought  forth,  appear  to  have  been  influenced  by  the 
feeling  that  he  was  serving  his  country. 

La  Mar  was,  during  the  early  part  of  the  war  of  the  revolution,  in 
the  Spanish  service,  but  he  afterwards  joined  the  popular  side.  He 
served  with  great  credit  to  himself  until  the  close  of  it,  and  contri¬ 
buted  much  to  the  success  of  the  last  and  decisive  battle  of  Ayacucho. 
After  this  he  retired  to  Guayaquil,  where  he  had  married  a  lady  of 
good  family,  and  remained  quietly  in  the  enjoyment  of  domestic 
comfort,  until  he  was  called  to  the  presidency  of  Peru.  He  was  a 
man  of  respectable  talents,  pure  and  unsuspected  integrity  of  cha¬ 
racter,  and  universally  esteemed  in  private  life.  He  died  in  Central 
America,  after  he  had  been  banished  by  Gamarra,  leaving  a  reputation 
much  above  that  of  any  of  his  associates. 

Gamarra  also  served  for  several  years  in  the  Spanish  army,  before 
the  revolution  broke  out.  He  early  joined  the  patriot  side.  As  a 
subaltern,  he  acquired  the  reputation  of  being  an  active  and  zealous 
officer,  but  on  his  promotion  to  higher  grades,  he  is  said  not  to  have 
displayed,  in  the  battles  and  skirmishes  in  which  he  was  engaged, 
any  skill,  and  his  courage  was  more  than  once  questioned.  At  the 
close  of  the  war  he  was  raised  to  the  rank  of  general  of  division ;  and 
his  first  act,  as  has  been  seen,  was  to  desert  La  Mar  at  Portete,  which 
showed  both  his  treachery  and  cowardice.  His  success  has  been 
ascribed  to  his  skill  in  intrigue,  and  to  his  making  use  of  the  patronage 
his  situation  placed  in  his  hands  to  effect  his  purposes.  He  trampled 
upon  the  rights  of  those  over  whom  he  ruled,  while  he  at  the  same 
time  was  making  the  strongest  professions  in  favour  of  democratic 
principles,  and  the  rights  of  the  people.  Under  the  pretext  of 
restoring  to  his  country  its  violated  constitution,  he  has  twice  over¬ 
thrown  the  established  authorities,  and  placed  himself  in  power  at  the 
point  of  the  bayonet.  Lavish  of  the  public  treasure,  and  equally 
careless  in  the  economy  of  his  private  affairs,  he  lived  and  died  in 
poverty.  He  was  false  in  his  friendships,  and  unforgiving  in  his 
enmities ;  he  was  greatly  to  be  feared  by  those  with  whom  he  became 
reconciled  after  a  quarrel.  He  has  left  but  few  admirers,  although 
through  his  management  he  contrived  to  hold  the  reins  of  govern¬ 
ment  longer  than  any  one  who  has  yet  occupied  the  presidential 
chair. 

Lafuente  was  a  cadet  in  the  Spanish  service,  but  joined  the  patriot 
cause.  He  did  not  gain  much  reputation  in  the  war  of  the  revolution, 
and  his  first  essay  as  a  general  officer  was  a  disobedience  of  orders 

78 


VOL.  I. 


310 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


in  landing  at  Callao,  while  on  his  way  to  join  La  Mar,  at  the  same 
time  uniting  in  intrigues  with  Gainarra,  whom  he  succeeded  in  getting 
nominated  as  President,  and  himself  as  Vice-President.  These  two 
chiefs  appear  to  have  understood  each  other,  and  to  avoid  collision  in 
the  division  of  the  spoils,  agreed  that  each  should  pursue  his  leading 
passion.  Gamarra  accordingly  conferred  honours  and  rewards,  whilst 
Lafuente  indulged  his  mercenary  propensity  to  accumulate  wealth. 
The  latter  has  grown  rich,  by  robbing  the  people  and  by  farming  out 
the  resources  of  the  state  to  his  agents  and  friends.  Although 
certainly  not  the  only  chief  magistrate  who  has  plundered  the  state, 
he  is,  perhaps,  the  only  one  in  Peru  who  has  hoarded  his  ill-gotten 
wealth,  and  obtained  affluence  whilst  his  country  was  impoverished. 
He  is  still  living,  and  was  acting  as  chief  during  our  visit  to  Lima. 

Orbejoso  served  in  the  patriot  army  during  the  revolution,  and  at 
the  close  of  the  war  retired  to  his  estate  near  Truxillo,  with  but  little 
reputation.  There  he  remained  until  elected  to  the  presidency,  in 
1831.  Without  talents  as  a  statesman  or  courage  as  a  soldier,  he 
acquired  more  popularity  than  any  other  of  his  contemporaries  in 
Peru.  He  undoubtedly  sold  his  country  to  Santa  Cruz,  receiving  as 
the  price  of  it,  the  appointment  of  President  of  North  Peru,  or  rather 
that  of  one  of  his  lieutenants.  At  the  moment  of  a  threatened  invasion 
from  Chili,  he  renounced  the  Confederation  in  order  to  gain  indepen¬ 
dent  command,  and  regained  much  of  his  lost  popularity  by  a  show 
of  patriotism  and  gallantry  in  opposing  the  invading  force.  His 
imbecility  and  want  of  knowledge,  together  with  the  conduct  of 
General  Nieto,  lost  him  the  battle,  under  the  walls  of  Lima,  with 
the  possession  of  the  city,  and  all  his  troops.  Soon  afterwards  he 
was  found  in  retirement  at  Guayaquil,  where  he  has  been  constantly 
occupied  in  forming  plans  for  his  reinstatement  to  power. 

Salaverry  served  as  a  cadet  in  the  last  year  of  the  revolution,  and 
was  esteemed  an  enterprising  and  gallant  officer.  He  was,  however, 
of  a  reckless  disposition,  and  it  is  related  that  he  threatened  to  shoot 
his  mother,  who  had  opposed  one  of  his  youthful  freaks.  Others, 
however,  bear  testimony  to  his  good  conduct  in  all  his  domestic 
relations,  and  to  his  kindness  and  generosity.  When  he  usurped  the 
supreme  authority,  he  had  no  more  than  about  two  hundred  men 
at  his  command,  yet  in  less  than  three  months  the  whole  country 
had  recognised  his  authority  and  government.  In  his  short  public 
career  he  certainly  showed  violent  passions,  and  evinced  cruelty  in 
many  of  his  acts,  but  he  seems  at  times  to  have  had  impulses  of 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


311 


generosity,  though  they  may  have  been  but  feeble.  At  the  time 
he  assumed  the  command,  and  declared  himself  supreme  chief,  he 
banished  General  Nieto,  a  superior  officer.  The  captain  of  the 
vessel  in  which  he  went  was  induced  to  land  him  in  the  north  of 
Peru,  where  he  collected  some  troops,  and  made  war  upon  Salaverry, 
who  immediately  marched  against  him,  vowing  vengeance  for  what 
he  termed  his  ungrateful  conduct,  in  return  for  his  lenity.  On 
Salaverry’s  approach,  one  of  Nieto’s  followers  betrayed  him,  and  he 
was  surprised  and  captured.  Salaverry  immediately  invited  him 
to  his  tent ;  they  supped  and  slept  together  on  the  same  hide,  but  he 
afterwards  banished  him  from  Peru. 

Another  act,  which  does  not  show  him  in  quite  so  good  a  light, 
was  his  ordering  General  Valle  Reistra,  an  old  companion,  an 
amiable  and  good  officer,  to  be  torn  from  his  wife  at  midnight, 
and  within  her  hearing  shot  in  cold  blood,  for  no  alleged  crime, 
and  it  is  supposed  merely  for  the  purpose  of  striking  terror  into 
his  opponents.  He  was  full  of  energy,  both  to  determine  and 
execute  his  plans,  and  evinced  talents  which,  had  they  been  con¬ 
trolled  by  judgment  and  guided  by  moral  principle,  would  have 
consolidated  his  power  and  saved  his  country  from  the  anarchy 
which  has  since  existed.  He  possessed  the  true  spirit  to  rule  the 
Peruvians,  so  far  as  energy  was  concerned ;  and  before  Peru  becomes 
settled,  she  will  need  some  military  despotism,  in  order  to  break 
down  the  small  and  numerous  contending  chiefs,  that  are,  as  each 
gains  the  ascendency,  the  worst  of  tyrants.  The  mode  of  his  death 
has  already  been  spoken  of. 

Santa  Cruz  was  in  the  Spanish  service  at  the  commencement  of 
the  revolution,  and  being  captured  by  the  patriots,  was  for  some  time 
a  prisoner  in  Buenos  Ayres.  On  his  liberation  he  espoused  the 
popular  cause,  and  was  for  a  short  time  at  the  head  of  the  government 
in  Peru,  where  he  had  been  placed  by  Bolivar,  and  continued  until 
the  setting  aside  of  Bolivar’s  authority,  and  the  election  of  La  Mar 
as  President.  He  was  expelled  by  the  intrigues  of  his  enemies,  but 
was  afterwards  employed  as  minister  to  Chili.  His  subsequent  ele¬ 
vation  to  the  presidency  of  Bolivia  has  led  to  the  suspicion  that  he 
participated  in  the  assassination  of  the  former  President,  Blanco,  and 
his  patronage  of  the  known  actors  in  that  affair,  gave  strong  grounds 
for  believing  the  truth  of  the  report. 

Santa  Cruz  is  a  man  of  ordinary  talents,  but  of  sound  common 
sense.  From  his  education  (which  is  superior  to  that  of  his 


312 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


countrymen)  he  is  far  in  advance  of  them  in  his  knowledge  and 
appreciation  of  the  institutions  of  other  countries.  He  is  indefati¬ 
gable  in  his  labours,  and  always  exacts  the  attention  of  others  to 
their  duties.  His  passions  are  strong  and  his  temper  unforgiving. 
Mercenary  in  his  disposition,  and  economical  in  his  habits,  he  has 
always  been  lavish  of  the  public  treasure  to  promote  his  own  views. 
From  his  liberal  cast  of  mind,  he  always  manifested  a  strong  desire 
to  forward  the  introduction  of  improvements,  and  adopt  such  mea¬ 
sures  as  would  tend  to  improve  the  state  and  its  people.  His 
measures  undertaken  for  this  purpose,  were  sometimes  arbitrary, 
and  by  them,  and  his  desire  to  engross  all  the  power  in  his  own 
person,  he  lost  much  popularity.  Foreigners  esteemed  him  as  one 
of  the  most  efficient  chief  magistrates  that  have  ever  presided  over 
this  unfortunate  country. 

F or  the  purpose  of  elucidating  the  character  of  the  proceedings  of 
the  chiefs  in  this  country,  I  will  end  by  giving  a  translation  of  one  of 
the  decrees,  establishing  the  government  of  South  Peru,  by  Santa 
Cruz. 

Considerando. 

1.  That  the  government  of  South  Peru  remains  incomplete  by  the 
death  and  absence  of  some  of  the  persons  composing  it. 

2.  That  the  necessity  exists,  that  that  government  should  have  an 
organization  more  simple  than  it  has  yet  enjoyed. 

It  is  decreed. 

Article  1.  That  the  government  of  South  Peru  be  composed  of  a 
Provisionary  President,  and  a  Secretary-General,  who  shall  transact 
all  the  ordinary  affairs  of  the  Interior  and  Placienda,  agreeably  to  the 
laws,  orders,  and  existing  decrees. 

Article  2.  The  Provisional  President  will  place  his  rubric  to  all  the 
resolutions  and  official  papers,  and  sign,  with  the  Secretary-General, 
the  decrees  which  he  may  issue. 

Article  3.  The  Provisional  President  and  Secretary  are  responsible 
for  all  the  acts  of  his  administration. 

Article  4.  There  shall  be  two  Secretaries,  one  for  the  Interior,  the 
other  for  the  Hacienda,  with  the  necessary  subordinates. 

Article  5.  The  Provisional  President  will  fill  all  the  vacant  places, 
and  displace  any  from  bad  conduct,  or  the  neglectful  performance  of 
his  duties,  or  transfer  them  to  other  posts,  as  he  may  deem  best  for 
the  public  benefit. 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OP  PERU. 


313 


Article  6.  He  may  lay  duties,  if  they  should  be  necessary  for  the 
wants  of  the  service  or  state. 

Article  7.  He  will  have  all  the  executive  power  which  may  be 
necessary  for  the  security,  order,  and  regulation  of  the  state,  in  every 
thing  that  is  not  reserved  by  this  present  decree,  notwithstanding,  he 
cannot  take  the  proper  rights  belonging  to  the  executive  power, 
neither  give  orders  nor  resolutions  contrary  to  the  existing  legislation, 
nor  to  the  decrees  which  may  be  in  full  force,  but  to  facilitate,  make 
clear,  and  do  away  with  the  difficulties  which  may  impede  their 
execution,  and  that  they  may  be  able  to  execute  the  intended  reforms 
and  mandates. 

Article  8.  The  Provisional  President  of  South  Peru  will  receive 
the  honours  and  treatment  which  are  due  to  a  chief  having  executive- 
power,  and  the  Secretary-General  those  corresponding  to  a  minister 
of  the  cabinet. 

My  Secretary-General  is  charged  with  the  execution  of  the  present 
decree,  who  will  have  it  printed  and  circulated. 

Given  in  the  Protectoral  Palace  of  Puno,  17th  September,  1837. 

(Signed)  Andres  Santa  Cruz. 

The  Secretary-General, 

M.  De  la  Cruz  Mendez. 

Another  decree  followed  this,  of  the  same  date,  appointing  General 
Herrera  the  Provisional  President,  and  Colonel  Don  Juan  Jose 
Lavrea  Secretary-General. 

The  results  of  my  inquiries  into  the  commerce  and  trade  of  Peru, 
are  by  no  means  satisfactory.  The  vacillating  policy  pursued  towards 
the  trade  has  been  most  extraordinary,  and  some  of  those  engaged 
in  commercial  pursuits  have  frequently  been  enabled,  through  the 
necessities  of  the  government,  to  reap  many  advantages.  Much 
illicit  trade  was  carried  on,  even  before  the  revolution,  under  the 
Spanish  rule.  The  restriction  laid  by  its  authority  on  commerce, 
kept  the  prices  of  imports  high,  whilst  the  low  value  of  exports, 
left  to  the  arbitrary  demand  of  monopolists,  prevented  or  diminished 
the  means  of  these  countries  to  pay  for  what  they  wanted  from 
abroad. 

From  this  state  of  things  resulted  the  limited  trade  and  enormous 
profits  under  the  colonial  system.  As  soon  as  the  ports  were  opened, 
an  expansion  took  place,  and  the  trade  was  entirely  overdone.  The 
markets  became  glutted  with  all  kinds  of  foreign  fabrics,  and  many 

79 


VOL,  I. 


314 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


ruinous  voyages  were  made  from  ignorance  of  the  wants  of  the 
people,  and  their  means  of  payment. 

For  the  last  ten  years  the  trade  has  been  better  understood.  The 
demand  and  the  means  of  payment  have  been  more  accurately  ascer¬ 
tained,  and  a  healthy  and  increasing  commerce  has  been  carried  on, 
as  far  as  the  state  of  the  country  and  the  fluctuations,  which  are 
inseparable  from  a  distant  traffic,  would  permit.  The  commerce  of 
Peru  will  not  bear  a  comparison  with  that  of  Chili,  and  while  the 
former  has  been  diminishing,  the  latter  has  been  rapidly  increasing. 
A  portion  of  the  supplies  which  were  formerly  sent  to  Peru  direct, 
are  now  obtained  in  Chili,  and  sent  to  their  destination  in  coasting 
vessels.  This  change  has  been  brought  about  by  the  unwise  policy 
pursued  by  the  various  Peruvian  rulers,  in  imposing  heavy  transit 
duties.  It  is  also  to  be  attributed  to  the  advantageous  situation  of 
Valparaiso,  where  purchasers  are  always  to  be  found  for  articles  for 
the  leeward  coast.  There  is  little  doubt  in  the  minds  of  those  who 
are  most  competent  to  judge,  that  Valparaiso  must  become  the  prin¬ 
cipal  mart  of  foreign  commerce  on  the  west  coast  of  America. 

The  foreign  trade  of  Peru  is  principally  carried  on  by  the  English, 
Americans,  and  French.  Of  late  years,  a  good  many  German  and 
Spanish  vessels  have  been,  sent  thither,  and  occasionally  some  of  the 
Mediterranean  flags  are  seen  on  the  coast. 

The  annual  imports  into  Peru  are  combined  so  much  with  those  of 
Chili,  that  it  was  deemed  proper  to  include  them  under  the  one  head ; 
those  of  Peru  amount  to  about  two-fifths  of  the  whole.  Of  these 
imports,  part  go  to  Guayaquil,  and  the  Intermedios,  or  South  Peru 
and  Bolivia,  take  about  one  million  from  Chili  and  Lima.  The 
returns  made  from  Peru  are  as  follows : 


In  dollars  and  bullion, 

Bark,  hides,  wool,  cotton,  &c.,  . 


$4,500,000 

500,000 


$5,000,000 


It  will  be  perceived,  that  both  in  Peru  and  Chili,  the  imports  and 
exports  are  nearly  the  same  in  amount;  and  the  question  naturally 
arises,  whence  the  profits  on  the  trade  ?  It  is  readily  answered  that, 
as  has  been  already  said,  large  quantities  of  goods  are  annually  sold 
in  Chili  and  Peru  for  Central  America,  the  proceeds  of  which  are 
shipped  thence  direct  to  Europe  and  the  United  States,  and  do  not 
appear  in  the  above  note  of  exports. 


POLITICAL  HISTORY  OF  PERU. 


315 


These  countries  offer  a  large  market  for  our  own  domestic  cottons, 
and,  if  the  prices  can  be  maintained,  the  United  States  will  supply 
the  most  of  the  coarser  kinds  used  there.  I  have  it  from  the  best 
authority,  that  the  increase  in  the  consumption  of  these  goods,  is  now 
double  what  it  was  five  years  ago,  and  is  increasing. 

The  article  of  flour,  however,  has  greatly  fallen  off :  previous  to 
1830  there  were  nearly  thirty  thousand  barrels  sold ;  in  the  last  three 
years,  six  thousand;  and  only  one  thousand  in  1841,  in  consequence 
of  Peru  being  abundantly  supplied  from  Chili. 


FOUNTAIN  AT  LIMA. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


CONTENTS. 

STORE-SHIP  RELIEF— EDWIN  BARTLETT,  ESQ.  — EDWARD  M’CALL,  ESQ.  —  DEPARTURE  — 
CAPTAIN  M’KEEVER— PERUVIAN  BRIG— SMALL-POX— GENERAL  ORDER— PROPOSED  ROUTE 
—  CURRENTS  —  EXPERIMENTS  —  TEMPERATURE  —  ALEXA  NDER  OGLE  —  CLERMONT  DE 
TONNERRE— APPEARANCE  OF  IT— SURVEY— NATIVES— JOHN  SAC— DIFFICULTIES  WITH 
THE  NATIVES  —  LANDING  —  SERLE  ISLAND  —  HON  DEN  —  SURVEYS  —  CORAL  ISLANDS  — 
VEGETATION  —  BIRDS,  ETC.  —  DISAPPOINTMENT  ISLANDS  — INHABITANTS  — WYTOOHEE— 
OTOOHO— TAIARO— RARAKA— LANDING— ONE-HANDED  CHIEF— HIS  VISIT  TO  THE  SHIP— 
INHABITANTS-CATCHING  FISH— LEAVE-TAKING— GALE— NARROW  ESCAPE  OF  PEACOCK- 
PORPOISE  DESPATCHED— VINCENNES  ISLAND— CRITICAL  POSITION  OF  TENDER— LANDING 
— ARATICA  ISLAND— COMMUNICATION  WITH  ITS  INHABITANTS —LANDING— VILLAGE- 
DESCRIPTION  OF  ISLAND  — FRESH  WATER  —  FOOD  —  TENDER  DESPATCHED  TO  KING 
GEORGE’S  GROUP— VINCENNES  AND  PEACOCK  DISCOVER  MANHII  AND  AHII  ISLANDS— 
SURVEY  —  LANDING  —  OBSERVATIONS  — NATIVES  — DESERTER  —  ECLIPSE  — PEACOCK  DE¬ 
SPATCHED  TO  RURICK  ISLAND— VINCENNES  PASSES  TO  NAIRSA  —  INHABITANTS  — 
KRUSENSTERN’S  ISLAND  —  METIA  ISLAND— ITS  APPEARANCE  — SURVEY  — LANDING- 
NATIVES— MISSIONARIES’  KINDNESS— COSTUMES— ASCEND  THE  ISLAND— VEGETATION- 
APPEARANCE  OF  THE  ISLAND— DEPARTURE— ARRIVAL  AT  TAHITI— ANCHOR  IN  MATA- 
VAI  BAY— OBSERVATIONS  ON  POINT  VENUS— PROCEEDINGS  OF  PORPOISE— PROCEEDINGS 
OF  PEACOCK— ARUTUA— SURVEY— NAIRSA  OR  DEAN’S  ISLAND— CORAL  BLOCKS— METIA 
ISLAND  —  OBSERVATIONS  —  TETUAROA  —  FLYING-FISH  —  TIOKEA  AND  OURA  — HISTORY  OF 
PAUMOTU  GROUP— CHARACTER  OF  ITS  INHABITANTS— POPULATION. 


CHAPTER  X  V. 

PAUMOTU  GROUP. 

1  8  3  9. 

On  the  13th  July  we  had  finished  the  necessary  outfits  and  taken 
in  our  stores.  The  remainder  of  the  latter  were  embarked  in  the 
store-ship  Relief,  which  was  ordered  to  land  a  part  of  them  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  and  the  rest  at  Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  after 
which  to  proceed  to  the  United  States  by  the  way  of  Cape  Horn. 

We  took  leave  of  our  kind  friends,  Edwin  Bartlett,  Esq.,  United 
States  Charge  d’ Affaires,  and  Edward  M’Call,  Esq.,  United  States 
Consul.  To  both  these  gentlemen  I  am  under  many  obligations  for 
their  kindness  and  information  in  relation  to  the  country  and  its 
affairs.  Their  long  residence  had  made  them  familiar  with  those 
subjects ;  and  many  of  the  transactions  they  communicated  had  hap¬ 
pened  under  their  own  eyes. 

At  5  p.  m.,  having  a  light  breeze,  the  signal  was  made  to  get  under 
way,  and  we  were  soon  standing  out  of  the  bay  under  all  canvass. 
Captain  M’Keever  accompanied  us  until  we  reached  the  point  of  San 
Lorenzo.  On  his  taking  leave,  we  expressed  our  thanks  for  the  im¬ 
portant  aid  he  had  rendered  us,  by  giving  him  several  hearty  cheers. 

The  day  after  our  departure,  we  fell  in  with  a  Peruvian  brig  from 
San  Bias,  in  want  of  water,  which  we  supplied.  She  had  fallen  to 
leeward  of  her  port,  and  her  people  were  reduced  to  much  distress  for 
want  of  that  necessary  article. 

I  had  felt  much  anxiety  lest  the  small-pox  should  make  its  appear¬ 
ance  among  us,  and  looked  forward  daily  with  apprehension  to  the 
hour  when  the  sick  reports  were  made.  On  the  14th  my  worst  fears 
were  realized,  for  the  Peacock  made  signal  that  they  had  a  case  of 
that  disease  on  board.  It  fortunately  proved  of  a  mild  type,  and  no 


320 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


other  symptoms  occurred  that  left  any  doubt  of  the  entire  extinction 
of  the  contagion.  I  was,  therefore,  greatly  relieved,  as  day  after 
day  elapsed,  to  be  assured  that  we  had  not  only  escaped  so  dreadful 
a  scourge  ourselves,  but  that  there  was  no  danger  of  its  being  com¬ 
municated  to  the  islanders. 

Being  now  about  to  enter  upon  a  new  field  of  observation,  in  which 
we  should  necessarily  come  much  in  contact  with  the  natives,  I 
issued  the  following  General  Order,  to  guard  against  any  misde¬ 
meanours,  and  to  insure  a  correct  deportment  in  both  officers  and 
men,  during  our  intercourse  with  the  islanders. 

GENERAL  ORDER. 

The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  informs 
the  officers  and  crews  under  his  command,  that  as  they  are  now 
about  to  visit  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  and  to  have  intercourse  with 
their  inhabitants,  he  wishes  to  inculcate  on  all  in  the  squadron,  that 
courtesy  and  kindness  towards  the  natives,  which  are  well  understood 
and  felt  by  all  classes  of  mankind ;  and  trusts  that  neither  contempt 
of,  nor  interference  with,  their  customs,  habits,  manners,  and  preju¬ 
dices,  nor  arrogance  over  them,  will  be  shown  by  any  one  belonging 
to  the  squadron ;  bearing  always  in  mind,  that  savage  nations  have 
but  vague  ideas  of  the  rights  of  property,  and  that  theft  committed  by 
them  has  been  the  great  cause  of  collision  between  them  and  civilized 
nations. 

He  would  therefore  enjoin  upon  all  great  moderation  in  every  thing 
respecting  their  intercourse  with  them,  that  no  act  of  hostility  will  be 
committed,  and  that  an  appeal  will  be  made  rather  to  their  good-will 
than  to  their  fears. 

That  the  manner  of  trading  with  them  which  will  be  established 
in  the  squadron,  will  be  most  strictly  adhered  to  by  all,  and  that  in 
the  event  of  difficulties  or  collision,  all  acts  of  force  will  be  avoided, 
unless  for  self-protection ;  in  short,  our  aim  shall  be  peace,  good-will, 
and  proper  decorum  to  every  class,  bearing  constantly  in  mind,  that 
the  future  intercourse  of  our  countrymen  with  the  natives  of  the 
islands  we  may  visit,  will  very  much  depend  on  the  impression  made 
on  their  minds  by  us,  and  recollecting,  that  it  is  the  nature  of  the 
savage  long  to  remember  benefits,  and  never  to  forget  injuries. 

It  therefore  behooves  us,  wherever  we  go,  to  leave  behind  us,  whe¬ 
ther  among  civilized  or  savage  nations,  favourable  impressions,  not 
only  as  respects  this  national  expedition,  but  of  our  flag  and  country- 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


321 


men.  The  Commander-in-cliief  feels  a  confidence  in  relying  on  the 
officers  and  crews  to  carry  out  these  views,  from  their  good  and 
exemplary  conduct  heretofore,  and  trusts  that  he  will  not  have  to 
regret  the  confidence  he  reposes  in  them. 

Any  acts  inconsistent  with  these  views,  will  meet  with  the  most 
exemplary  punishment. 


(Signed) 


July  13th,  1839. 

United  States’  Ship  Vincennes, 


Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


I  had  determined,  on  leaving  Callao,  to  take  up  the  examination  of 
the  Paumotu  Group,  recommended  to  the  Expedition  by  that  distin¬ 
guished  navigator  and  promoter  of  science,  Admiral  Krusenstern, 
whose  notes  were  made  a  part  of  my  instructions,  and  have  been 
already  referred  to  in  Appendix  V.  I  therefore  steered  for  the  island 
of  Minerva,  or  Clermont  de  Tonnerre,  one  of  the  most  eastern  of  the 
Paumotu  Group,  or  Cloud  of  Islands,  as  the  name  implies.  I  deemed 
this  to  be  the  most  interesting  point  at  which  to  begin  our  surveys, 
and  the  researches  of  our  naturalists,  particularly  as  it  was  inhabited, 
and  would  thus  enable  us  to  trace  the  inhabitants  from  one  end  of 
Polynesia  to  the  other,  across  the  Pacific.  At  the  same  time,  it 
afforded  a  very  desirable  point  for  magnetic  observations,  and  a  visit 
to  it  would  also  enable  me  to  settle  a  dispute  between  the  two  distin¬ 
guished  English  and  French  navigators,  Captains  Beechey  and  Du- 
perrey,  relative  to  its  geographical  position.  The  longitude  adopted 
for  Callao,  from  which  our  measurements  were  made,  was  79°  11' 
10"  W.  This  I  found  to  correspond  well  with  that  of  Valparaiso, 
the  meridian  distance  between  the  two  being  5°  31'  50". 

On  the  14th  we  found  the  current  setting  to  the  northwest  by  west 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  per  hour. 

The  15th,  at  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  the  land,  we 
had  changed  the  temperature  of  the  surface  to  67°  being  a  diffe¬ 
rence  of  7°.  At  three  hundred  fathoms  depth,  it  was  found  to  be 
51°.  This  day  the  current  was  found  setting  south  half  east,  half  a 
mile  per  hour. 

The  16th  brought  several  showers  of  rain,  the  first  we  had  ex¬ 
perienced  since  the  8th  of  June,  off  Valparaiso.  Here  we  again  tried 
the  current,  but  found  none.  I  now  continued  the  usual  experiments 
on  the  deep  sea  temperature,  dips,  variation,  currents,  the  visibility  of 
a  white  object  in  water,  and  the  dip  of  the  horizon,  for  which  I  must 

81 


VOL.  I. 


322 


V 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


refer  the  reader  to  the  tabular  results,  only  mentioning  such  as  are 
generally  interesting. 

On  the  18th,  the  surface  water  was  70°,  and  at  two  hundred  and 
ninety  fathoms  depth,  50°. 

On  the  24th,  in  longitude  99°  39'  W.,  we  found  the  current  setting 
southeast  half  a  mile  per  hour,  and  directly  against  the  wind.  Our 
latitude  was  15°  35'  S. 

Until  the  29th  we  had  moderate  breezes.  The  current  this  day 
was  found  east  northeast,  one-third  of  a  mile  per  hour.  At  9  p.  m. 
the  wind  came  from  the  west.  This  evening  we  had  a  beautiful 
display  of  the  zodiacal  light.  It  was  very  bright ;  its  altitude  was 
25° ;  the  upper  part  of  the  cone  was  not  well  marked,  and  its  apex 
was  not  defined;  the  breadth  of  its  base  was  3.0°.  A  fair  breeze 
from  the  southwest  continued  all  the  next  day,  when  we  had  reached 
the  longitude  of  113°  29'  W.,  and  latitude  17°  36'  S. 

On  the  31st,  we  passed  over  the  locality  of  an  island  marked  on  the 
charts  of  Arrowsmith.  Although  we  ran  over  its  position  with  the 
squadron  spread  so  as  to  cover  an  extent  of  thirty-five  miles  in 
latitude,  and  on  its  parallel  for  several  degrees,  lying-to  at  night, 
nothing  whatever  was  seen  to  indicate  land,  and  we  believe  that  it 
does  not  exist. 

On  the  4th  of  August  the  current  was  found  north  one-third  of  a 
mile  per  hour. 


75° 

74 


30  fathoms  below  surface, 
100  “  “  “ 


61 

50 


200  “  “  “ 

300  “  “  “ 


On  the  5th,  the  current  was  two-thirds  of  a  mile  per  hour,  to  the 
north-northeast. 

The  winds  on  the  parallel  of  18°  cannot  well  be  termed  the  Trades, 
for  at  this  time  of  the  year  they  will  be  found  very  variable,  though 
prevailing  generally  from  the  eastern  quarter,  with  a  long  swell  from 
the  southwest.  The  upper  stratum  of  clouds  were  generally  seen 
flying  from  the  southwest.  The  deep  sea  temperature  on  the  6th, 
at  three  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  depth,  was  46°,  surface  77°. 

The  7th  proved  a  calm  and  fine  day,  throughout  which  experi¬ 
ments  were  made  hourly,  to  ascertain  the  depth  at  which  a  white 
object  could  be  seen;  the  altitude  of  the  sun  was  taken  at  each 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


323 


observation,  and  also  the  force  and  direction  of  the  current.  The 
temperature  of  the  water  at  one  hundred  fathoms  was  75°,  whilst 
that  of  the  surface  was  77°.  We  were  in  longitude  125°  W.,  latitude 
18°  14'  S. 

The  nights  of  the  8th,  9th,  10th,  and  11th,  the  meteoric  showers 
were  looked  for,  the  officers  and  naturalists  keeping  watch,  each 
quarter  of  the  heavens  being  under  vision  at  the  same  time.  On  the 
8th,  upwards  of  one  hundred  shooting  stars  were  seen,  but  the  nights 
of  the  9th,  10th,  and  11th,  were  cloudy.  On  the  former  we  had 
much  lightning,  thunder,  and  rain,  with  squalls  from  the  southwest. 

On  the  12th,  Corporal  Alexander  Ogle  of  the  marines,  died  of 
inflammation  of  the  brain.  He  was  a  valuable  man,  and  had  been 
promoted  for  his  good  conduct.  He  had  the  confidence  of  his  officers 
and  the  esteem  of  his  corps.  In  the  afternoon  all  hands  were  called 
to  bury  the  dead,  and  his  body  was  committed  to  the  deep,  the  usual 
ceremonies  being  performed  by  the  chaplain,  and  the  vessels  of  the 
squadron  having  their  colours  at  half-mast. 

On  the  13th  of  August,  at  5  o’clock,  p.  m.,  we  made  Clermont  de 
Tonnerre,  or  Minerva  Island,  and  by  careful  observations  the  next 
day,  found  its  southeast  point  to  be  in  longitude  136°  21'  12"  W.,  lati¬ 
tude  18°  32'  49"  S.  Clermont  de  Tonnerre  being  the  first  low  coral 
island  we  had  met,  naturally  excited  a  great  deal  of  interest.  We  had 
pictured  them  to  ourselves  as  being  a  kind  of  fairy-land,  and  it  there¬ 
fore  was  looked  for  with  anxiety.  At  first  sight,  it  appeared  much 
like  a  fleet  of  vessels  at  anchor,  nothing  but  the  trees  being  seen  in  the 
distance,  and  as  the  ship  rises  and  sinks  with  the  swell  of  the  ocean, 
they  are  alternately  seen  and  lost  sight  of.  On  a  nearer  approach, 
the  whole  white  beach  was  distinctly  seen,  constituting  a  narrow  belt 
of  land,  of  a  light  clay  colour,  rising  up  out  of  the  deep  ocean,  the  surf 
breaking  on  its  coral  reefs,  surrounding  a  lagoon  of  a  beautiful  blue 


tint,  and  perfectly  smooth.  This  island  was  twelve  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  six  hundred  feet  wide  to  its  lagoon,  and  is  com- 


324 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


posed  of  coral  debris  and  vegetable  matter.  The  shrubs  are  few, 
and  not  more  than  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  high,  the  Cocoa-nut, 
Palms,  and  Pandanus  showing  conspicuously  above  them.  We 
found  it  by  our  survey,  to  be  ten  miles  long,  by  one  and  a  half  wide, 
lying  in  a  west-northwest  and  east-southeast  direction.  The  first 
sounding,  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  at  three  hundred  feet  from 
the  reef,  was  obtained  in  ninety  fathoms  (coral  sand) ;  at  one 
hundred  and  eighty  feet,  eighty-five  fathoms  (coral  sand) ;  at  one 
hundred  and  thirty  feet,  seven  fathoms  (hard  coral),  being  at  the 
edge  of  a  nearly  perpendicular  shelf ;  thence  to  the  shore,  the  bottom 
was  uneven,  decreasing  to  four,  three,  and  two  fathoms,  until  a 
second  or  upper  coral  shelf  rose,  over  which  the  water  at  high  tide 
flowed.  This  extended  to  where  the  beach  is  composed  of  broken 
coral  and  shells,  and  arose  on  a  gentle  declivity  to  ten  feet  high. 

The  Peacock  sounded  within  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the 
southern  point  of  the  island  :  at  three  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms,  the 
lead  brought  up  for  a  moment,  and  then  again  descended  to  six 
hundred  fathoms  without  reaching  bottom.  When  it  was  hauled  up, 
it  had  a  small  piece  of  white  and  another  of  red  coral  attached  to  it. 
The  west  side  of  the  island  is  a  bare  reef,  over  which  the  surf  breaks 
violently.  There  is  no  opening  or  entrance  to  the  lagoon. 

For  the  purpose  of  surveying  the  island,  the  Peacock  and.  Flying- 
Fish  took  the  west  side,  while  the  Vincennes  and  Porpoise  were  on 
the  east.  Boats  were  lowered  and  sent  on  shore  for  the  purpose  of 
landing ;  several  of  the  officers  and  naturalists  succeeded  in  reaching 
the  beach,  (swimming  through  the  surf,)  where  they  remained  about 
two  hours  making  collections. 

I  saw  some  natives,  five  men  and  two  women,  and  endeavoured  to 
hold  communication  with  them.  The  former  were  armed  with  long 
spears.  They  were  cautiously  watching  our  movements ;  and  after 
the  boats  had  left,  they  were  seen  examining  the  beach  for  articles 
that  might  have  been  dropped.  Every  inducement  was  held  out  to 
them  to  approach  my  boat,  but  without  success,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  return  on  board  for  the  night,  not  having  succeeded  in  finishing 
the  survey.  Wishing  to  have  communication  with  the  natives,  and 
effect  a  landing,  we  lay  to,  and  by  morning  found  that  we  had 
drifted  off  from  the  island  eight  miles  to  the  northwest,  and  did  not 
again  reach  our  station  until  towards  the  afternoon.  I  then  pro¬ 
ceeded  to  the  beach,  taking  with  me  as  interpreter,  John  Sac,  a  New 
Zealander,  who  spoke  the  Tahitian  language,  determined,  if  possible, 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


325 


to  enter  into  communication  with,  the  natives,  and  to  land  to  make 
observations.  Seventeen  natives  were  now  seen  on  the  beach,  armed 
with  long  spears  and  clubs,  which  they  were  brandishing  with 
menacing  attitudes,  making  motions  for  me  to  retire.  As  I 
approached  them  with  a  white  flag  flying,  many  more  were  seen 
in  the  bushes,  probably  in  all  about  one  hundred.  I  told  John  Sac 
to  speak  to  them,  which  he  did,  and  found  he  was  understood.  The 
only  answer  he  could  get  from  them  was,  several  of  them  crying 
out  at  the  same  time,  “Go  to  your  own  lands;  this  belongs  to  us, 
and  we  do  not  want  to  have  any  thing  to  do  with  you.”  It  was  impos¬ 
sible  to  beach  the  boat  without  injury  on  account  of  the  surf  and  coral, 
and  in  order  to  land  it  was  necessary  to  swim  a  short  distance, 
which  could  not  be  done  without  our  being  attacked,  and  suffering 
injury,  before  we  had  established  a  friendly  intercourse.  I  therefore 
had  recourse  to  throwing  presents  to  them, — all  of  which  they  eagerly 
took, — assuring  them  that  we  were  friends  ;  but  they  still  continued 
warning  us  off,  and  threatening  us  with  their  long  spears.  I  am 
rather  inclined  now  to  think  our  interpreter  was  partly  the  cause  of 
my  not  succeeding  in  overcoming  their  fears  and  scruples.  John  Sac 
was  truly  a  savage,  although  he  had  imbibed  some  feelings  of 
discipline,  and  was  generally  a  well-disposed  fellow.  He  was  a 
petty  New  Zealand  chief,  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  and  had  resided 
some  time  at  Tahiti,  where  he  said  he  was  married.  At  times  it  was 
difficult  to  control  John’s  movements.  He  on  this  occasion  soon 
became  provoked  at  the  chief’s  obstinacy ;  and  the  idea  of  their  re¬ 
ceiving  all  our  presents  so  greedily  without  thanks  in  return,  excited 
his  native  fire ;  his  eye  shone  fiercely,  and  his  whole  frame  seemed 
agitated.  Half  naked  as  he  was,  his  tattooing  conspicuous,  he  stood 
in  the  bow  of  the  boat  brandishing  his  boat-hook  like  a  spear,  with 
the  dexterity  of  a  savage.  It  was  difficult  to  recognise  the  sailor  in 
the  fierce  majestic-looking  warrior  before  us.  The  chief  and  John 
kept  passing  words  until  both  were  becoming  vociferous,  the  one 
appearing  as  savage  as  the  other.  John’s  animated  attitudes  and 
gestures  were  the  admiration  of  all.  As  we  could  not  understand 
him,  he  may  have  said  many  things  to  irritate  the  savage  chief  before 
he  could  be  silenced,  although  he  declared  his  innocence  in  that 
respect  afterwards.  I  had  been  engaged  for  upwards  of  an  hour 
endeavouring  to  overcome  their  fears  of  us,  when  I  was  joined  by 
several  boats  from  the  other  vessels.  The  officers  being  anxious  to 
have  communication  with  the  natives,  were  desirous  of  landing,  and  I 

82 


VOL.  I. 


326 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


readily  gave  them  permission  to  do  so  without  arms.  They  passed  a 
short  distance  from  us,  hoping  to  effect  their  purpose  without  oppo¬ 
sition,  but  the  natives  separated  in  order  to  oppose  any  landing. 
One  or  two  officers  swam  through  the  surf  without  arms,  and  were 
boldly  set  upon  by  three  of  the  natives,  when  they  made  a  hurried 
retreat.  This  evidently  gave  the  natives  confidence,  when  their  con¬ 
duct  became  more  outrageous.  Mr.  Couthouy  requested  permission 
to  land  with  presents,  under  the  protection  of  the  boat,  which  I  gave 
him.  He  swam  on  shore,  pausing  now  and  then  for  the  purpose  of 
showing  the  trinkets.  The  chief  motioned  him  away,  but  he  landed 
on  the  rocks.  The  chief,  retiring,  appeared  as  if  somewhat  alarmed, 
while  Mr.  Couthouy  advanced  towards  him,  holding  out  the  presents. 
On  being  joined  by  another  native  the  chief  stopped,  raised  his  spear, 
and  with  a  shout  and  distortion  of  countenance,  made  a  pass  at  Mr. 
Couthouy,  who  at  once  dropped  looking-glasses,  trinkets,  &c.,  at  his 
feet,  and  quickly  made  for  the  boat.  The  savage  took  no  notice  of 
Mr.  Couthouy’ s  offerings,  but  advanced  to  attack  him  with  his  spear. 
When  he  had  reached  the  edge  of  the  surf,  he  made  another  thrust 
at  him,  but  fortunately  without  injury.  This  precipitate  retreat  gave 
them  still  more  confidence;  they  now  began  throwing  pieces  of  corat, 
numbers  of  which  struck  the  men  in  my  boat.  I  felt  no  disposition 
to  do  them  harm,  and  yet  I  had  no  idea  of  letting  them  see  and  feel 
that  they  had  driven  us  off  without  landing,  well  knowing,  however, 
if  a  forcible  landing  took  place,  and  they  made  resistance,  that 
accident  would  befall  one  side,  and  probably  both.  I,  therefore, 
thinking  that  they  had  no  idea  of  fire-arms,  ordered  several  blank 
cartridges  to  be  fired,  but  they  took  no  notice  of  them.*  According 
to  John  Sac,  they  hooted  at  these  arms,  calling  us  cowards,  and 
daring  us  to  come  on  shore.  I  then  fired  a  small  charge  of  mustard- 
seed  shot  at  their  legs,  which  did  not  produce  any  effect.  Then,  Mr. 
Peale,  who  was  near  by  me,  was  requested  to  draw  his  ball,  and  load 
with  mustard -seed,  which  he  did,  and  Lieutenant  North  likewise 
fired,  which  caused  the  chief  and  all  the  rest  to  retreat,  rubbing  their 
legs.  The  officers  were  now  permitted  to  land,  under  strict  injunc¬ 
tions  not  to  leave  the  beach,  in  order  to  avoid  all  contact  with  the 
natives.  So  much  time  had  been  lost  before  I  could  get  the 


*  I  have  since  understood,  however,  that  the  poor  natives  have  been  fired  upon  by 
trading  vessels  engaged  in  the  pearl  fishery,  in  mere  wantonness,  which  will  account  for 
their  hostile  reception  of  us. 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


327 


instruments  safely  on  shore,  that  I  found  it  too  late  to  make  the 
observations  I  desired. 

The  natives  whom  we  saw,  appeared  a  fine  athletic  race,  much 
above  the  ordinary  size.  Their  colour  was  darker  than  that  of  our 
Indians,  but  their  features  resembled  them.  No  tattooing  was  ob¬ 
served  on  the  men,  and  the  women  were  not  seen  close  enough  to 
distinguish  them.  The  hair  of  the  former  was  long,  black,  and 
straight.  The  chiefs  had  theirs  drawn  back,  and  tied  in  a  knot 
behind.  The  others  had  theirs  hanging  loose.  They  wore  a  small 
maro  made  of  leaves,  and  the  chiefs  a  Pandanus  leaf  around  their 
necks,  probably  to  distinguish  their  rank.  The  women  wore  a  piece 
of  tapa  as  a  petticoat;  they  were  not  oiled,  and  some  of  their  heads 
seemed  filled  with  ashes  or  lime.  They  spoke  and  understood  the 
Tahitian  dialect.  The  only  information  obtained  from  them  was,  that 
vessels  had  before  been  there,  but  had  gone  away  without  landing. 

Immediately  on  their  being  driven  from  the  beach,  a  large  column 
of  smoke  was  seen,  no  doubt  a  signal  to  the  other  inhabitants  of  the 
island.  After  being  on  the  reef  half  an  hour,  we  joined  our  boats,  and 
returned  on  board  near  sunset.  One  canoe  was  reported,  the  next 
morning,  as  having  been  seen  from  the  Peacock. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  that  we  saw  certainly  did  not  exceed 
one  hundred  and  twenty. 

The  common  house-fly  was  found  in  great  numbers  at  this  island. 
A  number  of  fish  were  caught ;  some  shells,  and  specimens  of  most  of 
the  plants  were  also  procured. 

After  lying  to  for  the  night,  we,  at  daylight  on  the  16th,  bore  away 
for  Serle  Island,  having  first  ascertained  our  distance  from  the  point 
of  Clermont  de  Tonnerre  by  triangulation.  We  then  ran  by  the 
patent  log  for  Serle  Island,  direct,  by  which  means  we  made  the 
distance  between  the  two  islands,  twenty-six  miles  and  two-tenths. 
No  signs  of  any  other  island  exist  between  these  two.  This  will,  I 
think,  settle  the  question  between  Duperrey  and  Beechey.  The  latter 
is  undoubtedly  wrong  as  respects  the  longitude  of  Clermont  de  Ton¬ 
nerre,  which  he  places  some  twenty  minutes  too  far  to  the  eastward, 
and  I  doubt  not  some  accidental  error  has  occurred  in  his  observa¬ 
tions;  for  I  find,  at  Serle  Island,  Duperrey,  Beechey,  and  myself, 
agree  within  a  few  minutes. 

Serle  is  a  low  coral  island,  and  has  a  large  and  very  regular  clump 
of  trees  on  its  western  end,  which  at  a  distance  might  be  taken  for  a 
mound  or  hill.  Its  length  is  seven  miles,  and  its  width  one  and  a 


328 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


fourth.  It  lies  in  a  northwest  and  southeast  direction.  There  are 
but  few  inhabitants  on  it.  The  position  of  its  southeast  end  is  in 
latitude  18°  21'  10"  S.,  longitude  137°  04'  10"  W. 

The  vessels  again  separated  for  its  survey  boats  were  sent  to  trace 
the  reef,  and  have  communication  with  the  natives,  if  possible.  Before 
night  we  had  completed  our  survey,  and  the  boats  returned.  Lieu¬ 
tenant  Alden,  in  charge  of  one  of  them,  reported  that  he  had  had 
communication  with  the  natives,  who  were  very  friendly  and  desirous 
of  holding  intercourse  with  him.  He  obtained  several  articles  of 

O 

curiosity  from  them.  Some  of  them  were  tattooed.  They  were  found 
to  be  a  set  of  arrant  thieves,  wishing  to  carry  off  every  thing  they 
saw,  trying  even  to  pull  the  copper  off  the  blades  of  the  oars,  but  appa¬ 
rently  without  any  idea  that  it  was  wrong.  When  first  seen  they 
were  armed  with  spears,  but  seeing  that  we  did  not  attempt  to  land, 
they  sent  them  away  in  charge  of  a  boy,  and  swam  off  to  the  boat. 

I  now  determined  to  wait  until  the  next  day,  for  the  purpose  of 
having  further  communication  with  them,  and  ordered  every  thing  to 
be  prepared  for  an  early  landing ;  but  during  the  night,  the  officer  of 
the  deck  of  the  Porpoise  (Acting  Master  Sinclair)  ran  into  the  Vin¬ 
cennes,  and  did  both  vessels  some  injury,  smashing  the  starboard 
quarter  boat,  which  broke  adrift,  cutting  off  our  backstays,  and  losing 
some  of  the  head-spars  of  the  Porpoise.  By  this  accident  we  lost  our 
position,  and  in  the  morning  found  ourselves  so  far  to  the  leeward, 
that  I  knew  it  must  occupy  much  time — which  we  could  not  afford 
to  lose — before  we  could  regain  the  island.  I  therefore  reluctantly 
bore  away  to  the  northward,  to  pass  over  the  localities  of  one  or  two 
doubtful  islands,  on  our  way  to  that  of  Honden. 

On  the  19th  of  August  we  made  Henuake,  Honden,  or  Dog 
Island,  and  came  up  with  it  about  noon.  The  boats  were  at  once 
despatched,  in  order  to  ascertain  if  a  landing  could  be  effected,  and 
the  ships  began  the  surveying  operations.  The  surf  was  found  very 
heavy  on  the  beach,  but  the  boats  notwithstanding  succeeded  in 
landing.  The  number  of  birds  seen  hovering  over  the  island  was  an 
indication  that  it  was  not  inhabited,  which  proved  to  be  the  case. 
Several  turtles  were  caught,  and  a  number  of  specimens  obtained. 
The  survey  of  the  island  not  having  been  completed,  I  lay  by  all 
night,  and  in  the  morning  early  despatched  boats  to  complete  the 
examination  of  it,  and  to  effect  a  landing.  The  greatest  part  of  the 


*  For  the  mode  of  making  the  surveys  of  the  Coral  Islands,  see  Appendix  XLI. 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


329 


day  was  spent  on  the  island.  Near  the  place  where  we  landed,  there 
has  been  a  channel  to  the  small  lagoon  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  and 
there  is  another  of  a  similar  character  on  the  opposite  side.  They 
were  both  dry,  and  the  sea-water  can  only  communicate  with  the 
lagoon  at  very  high  tides.  From  our  observations  of  the  day,  the 
usual  neap  tide  is  three  and  a  half  feet,  and  it  would  give  high  water 
at  full  and  change  of  the  moon,  at  2  p.  m. 


SECTION  OF  CORAL  ISLAND. 


There  are  many  blocks  of  compact  coral,  just  at  high  water  mark, 
quite  black  on  the  outside,  but  on  fracture  they  showed  the  white 
coral.  The  white  coral  shelf  over  which  the  sea  flows  at  high  water 
was  two  hundred  feet  broad,  the  low  water  falling  two  feet  below  its 
surface :  it  is  quite  level,  but  there  are  many  holes  and  large  longi¬ 
tudinal  cracks  in  it.  On  this  lies  the  compact  coral  above  spoken 
of,  extending  beneath  the  coral  sand.  It  is  about  ten  or  twelve  feet 
wide.  The  coral  sand  beach  above  the  compact  layer  has  eight  feet 
perpendicular  rise,  and  lies  at  an  angle  of  47°.  On  the  top  of  this 
are  small  pieces  of  coral,  which  have  been  thrown  up  by  the  sea, 
around  the  roots  of  trees  and  shrubs,  growing  to  the  height  of  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  feet.  We  found  the  water  in  the  lagoon  quite  salt, 
and  very  warm.  Its  bottom  for  a  long  distance  was  filled  with  a  fine 
deposit  of  calcareous  mud,  about  six  inches  in  depth.  The  water 
had  apparently  evaporated  from  the  lagoon,  and  to  the  taste  was 
much  salter  than  the  ocean.  Purslain  (Portulacca)  was  found 
growing  in  a  thrifty  state  in  this  deposit.  Where  the  lagoon  was 
deeper,  some  fine  specimens  of  corals  were  observed  and  obtained. 
No  traces  of  inhabitants  were  perceived  on  this  island.  The  state 
of  nature  in  which  the  birds  were  found,  and  other  indications, 
gave  proof  that  it  had  not  been  inhabited,  at  least  for  some  time. 
There  were  a  great  many  sharks,  both  in  the  lagoon  and  outside, 
which  were  so  ravenous  that  they  would  bite  at  the  oars.  It  was  by 
no  means  pleasant  to  have  to  swim  through  the  surf  to  the  boat 
with  them  so  numerous  around  us. 


VOL.  I. 


83 


330 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


The  landing  on  a  coral  island  effectually  does  away  with  all 
preconceived  notions  of  its  beauty,  and  the  ideas  formed  in  its  favour 
are  immediately  put  to  flight.  That  verdure  which  carpeted  the 
whole  island  in  imagination  from  a  distant  view,  was  in  reality  but  a 
few  patches  of  wiry  grass,  that  obstructs  the  walking,  and  offered 
neither  fruit  nor  flowers  to  view,  it  grew  among  the  rugged  Coral 
debris,  with  a  little  sand  and  vegetable  earth. 

The  principal  trees  and  shrubs  are  the  Pandanus,  Boerhaavia,  and 
Pisonia.  It  is  somewhat  surprising  that  a  few  trees  forty  or  fifty  feet 
high  should  have  found  sufficient  soil  to  protect  their  growth.  Most 
of  the  trees,  however,  are  of  stunted  size,  being  not  more  than  ten  to 
fifteen  feet  in  height,  and  eighteen  inches  in  diameter. 

Van  Shouten  and  Le  Maire  visited  this  island,  10th  April,  1616, 
some  two  hundred  years  before,  and  it  was  even  then  clothed  with 
vegetation.  If  their  description  is  an  accurate  one,  the  island  appears 
now  to  be  rather  higher,  as  they  report  “  from  what  they  could  judge, 
the  greater  part  of  the  island  is  overflowed  at  high  water;”  this  is 
certainly  not  the  case  now.  The  centre  of  the  island  is  in  latitude 
14°  55'  40"  S.,  longitude  138°  47'  36"  W. 

The  number  of  birds  on  the  island  was  incredible,  and  they 
were  so  tame  as  to  require  to  be  pushed  off  their  nests  to  get  their 
eggs.  The  most  conspicuous  among  them  was  the  frigate-bird 
(Tachypetis  aquilus),  many  of  the  trees  were  covered  with  their 
nests,  constructed  of  a  few  sticks.  The  old  birds  were  seen,  as  they 
flew  off,  inflating  their  blood-red  pouches  to  the  size  of  a  child’s  head, 
and  looking  as  if  a  large  bladder  wxas  attached  to  their  necks.  The 
gannets,  sooty  terns,  and  the  beautiful  tropic  bird,  were  in  countless 
numbers;  the  former  guarding  their  eggs,  (which  were  laid  on  the 
ground  without  a  nest,)  with  care,  remaining  by  them,  and  even 
suffering  themselves  to  be  captured  without  resistance.  Their  hoarse 
croaking  was  quite  deafening. 

Some  droll  sights  were  seen  of  crabs  walking  off  with  snakes,  and 
both  again  seized  by  some  stout  bird  and  borne  away.  Perfect 
armies  of  soldier  or  piratical  crabs  (Paguri)  were  seen  moving  in  all 
directions  with  their  shells.  We  enjoyed  ourselves  much,  and  found 
no  use  for  our  guns,  powder,  and  shot.  As  many  specimens  as  we 
could  desire  were  taken  with  the  hand,  both  old  and  young.  In 
some  cases  the  tropic  birds  were  taken  off  their  nests,  and  from  others 
their  eggs  were  taken  without  disturbing  them ;  indeed,  I  have  never 
seen  any  barn-yard  fowls  half  so  tame. 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


331 


The  various  snakes,  the  many-coloured  fish,  the  great  eels,  enor¬ 
mous  and  voracious  sharks,  shells,  large  molusks,  spiders,  with  the 
curious  lepidoptera,  seemed  to  have  quiet  possession,  their  webs 
stretching  in  every  direction,  and  occasioning  us  much  annoyance : 
all  gave  a  novelty  to  the  scene,  that  highly  amused  and  delighted  us. 
In  the  afternoon  we  returned  on  board,  loaded  with  specimens,  and 
the  survey  being  completed,  we  bore  away  on  our  course. 

There  are  no  cocoa-nut  palms  on  the  island,  as  has  been  reported 
by  Captain  Fitzroy,  in  his  voyage ;  nor  is  there  any  fresh  water  to  be 
found.  Some  of  our  gentlemen  saw  on  the  beach  some  broken  oars 
and  some  remains  of  a  boat,  but  nothing  could  be  identified. 

Pandanus  trees  exist  on  the  south  side. 

On  the  23d  of  August  we  made  the  Disappointment  Islands  of 
Byron:  they  are  two  in  number,  called  Wytoohee  and  Otooho.  On 
the  same  day,  I  was  informed  by  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold, 
of  the  Porpoise,  that  George  Reynolds,  ordinary  seaman,  had  died  of 
chronic  pneumonia ;  the  chaplain  went  on  board  and  performed  the 
last  offices,  in  the  afternoon. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  we  were  off  the  northwest  end  of  the 
island  of  Wytoohee,  which  lies  in  latitude  14°  09'  30"  S.,  longitude 
141°  17'  50"  W.  Many  canoes  came  off  to  the  ship :  as  they 
approached  the  vessels,  the  natives  were  heard,  while  at  some  dis¬ 
tance,  singing,  and,  as  they  drew  near,  the  clamour  increased, 
accompanied  with  much  laughing,  and  many  gesticulations ;  but 
none  of  them  could  be  induced  to  come  on  board,  and  they  were  not 
willing  to  part  with  any  thing  but  some  pieces  of  old  matting.  An 
attempt  was  made  to  get  some  of  their  paddles,  but  they  rather 
ridiculed  the  idea  of  parting  with  them. 


CANOE  OF  WYTOOHEE. 


The  canoes  were  quite  small,  being  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  long. 
They  generally  contained  two  and  sometimes  three  natives.  Each 
canoe  had  an  out-rigger,  and  a  projecting  point,  both  before  and 
behind,  by  which  they  get  into  them  from  the  water.  They  are 


332 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


formed  of  strips  of  cocoa-nut  wood  sewed  together.  Two  persons  can 
carry  them.  Their  paddles  were  curved  backwards. 

In  order  to  dispel  their  fears,  articles  were  given  them  gratuitously, 
and  by  way  of  showing  their  gratitude,  they  began  a  monotonous 
song  or  chaunt.  They  would  occasionally  stop,  look  up,  and  return 
the  laugh  of  the  crew  by  a  grin ;  apparently  enjoying  the  sport  as 
much  as  any  of  them. 

I  sent  one  of  the  boats  to  the  shore,  with  the  interpreter,  under 
Lieutenant  Case,  but  they  refused  to  allow  them  to  land.  No  actual 
violence  was  attempted,  but  Lieutenant  Case  reported  the  impractica¬ 
bility  of  landing  without  opposition,  and  injury  to  themselves  and 
natives.  They  received  several  presents,  but  they  had  no  fruit  to 
give  in  return,  as  their  cocoa-nuts  were  tabooed.  They  gave,  in 
exchange,  some  articles,  consisting  of  cloth,  fish-hooks,  adzes,  and 
pearl-shells.  Among  the  articles  seen  in  their  possession,  was  a  fine 
silk  pocket-handkerchief,  showing  that  they  had  had  communication 
not  long  since  with  vessels.  They  refused  to  part  with  their  spears 
or  clubs.  Their  adzes  were  rudely  made,  but  ground  very  sharp ; 
they  were  formed  of  the  tridachna  or  cassis  shell,  lashed  on  a  handle 
somewhat  resembling  our  adze-handles.  Knives  were  also  observed 
in  their  possession. 

These  natives  are  peculiar,  and  appeared  totally  distinct  from  any 
others  we  met  with  in  this  group,  having  strong  wiry  beards  and 
moustaches,  and  a  different  physiognomy.  The  portrait  by  Mr. 
Drayton,  gives  a  very  correct  idea  of  them. 


NATIVE  OF  WYTOOHEE. 


The  remainder  of  the  day  was  employed  in  surveying  the  island, 
which  not  being  finished  by  night,  we  lay  to  in  order  to  complete  it 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


333 


tlie  next  day.  On  the  25th,  the  Peacock  and  Porpoise  were  ordered 
on  one  side  of  the  island,  the  Vincennes  and  tender  on  the  other. 
Boats  were  lowered  to  effect  a  landing  if  possible  and  trace  the 
shores. 

The  island  is  formed  of  islets  connected  by  a  washed  coral  reef,  of 
irregular  shape,  with  a  lagoon  having  many  knolls  in  it,  of  various 
sizes,  some  four  or  five  feet  above  the  surface.  The  southeast  portion 
is  the  largest  and  most  thickly  wooded,  and  contains  the  largest 
number  of  inhabitants. 

After  the  surveying  duties  were  over,  we  found  ourselves  at  the 
northwest  point  of  the  island.  The  natives  who  had  refused  to  allow 
us  to  land,  were  now  seen  waving  green  boughs,  which  is  the  general 
sign  of  good-will,  and  a  desire  to  have  communication,  and  many  were 
seen  dancing  on  the  beach  with  their  spears  in  their  hands.  I  gave 
orders  to  send  the  boats  to  the  shore,  but  on  reaching  it  we  found 
them  still  averse  to  our  landing ;  they,  however,  assisted  Mr. 
Couthouy  through  the  surf  to  the  beach,  but  when  he  had  reached 
it,  they  surrounded  him,  and  led  him  back  very  gently  to  the  water, 
making  him  distinctly  understand  that  they  would  not  permit  him  to 
visit  their  huts.  They  were  extremely  desirous  of  obtaining  buttons, 
pieces  of  iron,  and  cloth.  We  gave  them  several  small  articles,  but 
they  could  not  be  persuaded  to  part  with  their  spears  and  clubs. 
The  chief,  who  was  a  very  old  man,  was  seen  lying  under  a 
Pandanus  tree,  close  to  the  beach,  and  on  being  told  I  wished  to  see 
him,  and  make  him  a  present,  he  arose ;  his  hair  was  quite  gray,  and 
he  had  a  long  and  stiff  white  beard  ;  his  legs  were  enlarged  with  the 
elephantiasis,  the  swelling  being  of  a  white  colour,  and  so  large  and 
regular  that  many  thought  he  had  on  sailor’s  trousers.  About  twenty 
natives  were  with  him  on  the  beach.  After  being  shown  the 
presents  I  had  for  him,  he  was  induced  to  wade  into  the  water  up  to 
his  neck  to  receive  them.  On  coming  alongside  the  boat,  he  seemed 
somewhat  uneasy,  until  he  had  gone  through  the  ceremony  of 
rubbing  noses,  which  I  must  confess  was  any  thing  but  agreeable 
with  so  dirty  and  diseased  a  person.  He  was  extremely  anxious  to 
get  hold  of  the  presents,  and  amused  us  by  at  once  plunging  them 
under  the  water,  seeming  in  no  manner  concerned  about  keeping 
them  dry.  He  was  all  the  while  making  a  noise  like  the  purring  of 
a  cat.  In  return  for  my  presents,  he  at  once  offered  me  the  short 
mantle  of  matting  which  he  had  over  his  shoulders. 

They  understood  the  Tahitian  language.  The  chief  gave  his 

84 


VOL.  I. 


334 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


name  as  Korokoa,  and  the  name  of  the  island  as  Wytoohee.  He 
appeared  abont  sixty  years  of  age,  and  his  teeth  were  all  sound  and 
good. 

His  brother  was  the  priest,  to  whom  I  also  gave  some  presents. 
This  man  had  a  very  remarkable  head,  the  forehead  being  very  high, 
and  narrow  almost  to  a  deformity,  with  a  dark  and  suspicious  bright 
eye.  His  hands  were  deformed,  being  destitute  of  joints,  and  the 
lower  part  bent  at  right  angles.  The  son  of  the  chief  was  a 
remarkably  fine-looking  lad  of  fifteen.  We  saw  no  women,  as  they 
had  all  been  hid.  The  colour  of  these  natives  was  much  darker 
than  those  seen  before  ;  in  some  the  hair  was  inclined  to  frizzle,  and 
the  beard  curly.  All  the  grown  men  that  I  saw  had  mustaches ; 
their  features  were  strongly  marked  with  a  good-humoured  expression 
of  countenance ;  they  wore  the  maro,  and  some  had  a  few  feathers  in 
their  hair. 

The  boats  of  the  Peacock  succeeded  in  landing  on  the  east  side  of 
the  island,  where  the  coral  reef  shelves  at  about  an  angle  of  10°,  and 
having  the  wind  blowing  obliquely  on  it,  there  is  comparatively  little 
surf :  some  half  a  dozen  natives  were  here  seen ;  an  officer  approached 
them  making  signs  of  friendship,  which  they  returned.  Among  the 
number  were  two  old  men,  who  came  forward  holding  their  arms 


NATIVES  OF  WYTOOIIEE. 

upright  above  their  heads,  with  their  hands  open.  At  first  they 
seemed  quite  timid,  meeting  the  advances  made  in  a  manner  which 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


335 


showed  that  they  were  anxious  to  propitiate  us,  but  still  fearful. 
They  were  reassured  hy  our  making  them  some  small  presents,  and 
became  desirous  of  shaking  hands,  and  even  offered  to  rub  noses. 
They  were  all  armed  with  a  stick,  (for  it  could  not  be  called  a 
spear,)  six  or  seven  feet  long,  on  some  of  them  were  fastened  the 
jaws  of  the  porpoise. 

They  appeared  to  be  greatly  astonished,  and  their  looks  bespoke 
amazement  at  our  appearance.  Occasionally,  as  if  to  satisfy  them¬ 
selves  of  the  reality,  they  would  put  their  hands  on  us.  On  receiving 
a  few  trifling  presents  they  broke  forth  into  the  same  song  or  chaunt 
that  was  heard  on  their  first  coming  towards  the  ship.  The  younger 
ones  were  the  first  to  show  confidence,  and  were  much  disposed  to 
laugh  and  joke  with  the  men,  and  some  of  the  officers  thought  they 
recognised  those  who  had  been  in  the  canoes  the  day  before. 

On  our  gentlemen  requesting  to  go  to  their  huts,  they  seemed  to 
be  thrown  into  a  kind  of  stupid  wonderment,  but  on  being  assured 
they  had  nothing  to  fear,  their  countenances  brightened  up,  and  they 
led  the  way  through  the  wood  to  an  open  space,  surrounded  by 
pandanus  and  cocoa-nut  trees.  These  natives  had  evidently  had 
communication  with  vessels,  but  I  very  much  doubt  if  any  had 
landed  before.  They  did  not  appear  at  all  alarmed  at  the  firing  of 
guns,  but  were  much  surprised  to  see  the  birds  killed,  holding  up 
their  hands,  and  making  ejaculations.  They  had  no  idea  of  the 
principles  of  barter,  and  allowed  any  thing  to  be  taken  without  oppo¬ 
sition,  receiving  any  articles  in  return  with  gratitude  and  delight. 
Iron  was  prized  more  than  any  other  thing.  On  reaching  the  huts 
inquiry  was  made  of  them  for  their  women,  when  a  general  burst  of 
laughter  ensued  and  they  gave  us  to  understand,  that  they  had  pene¬ 
trated  our  motive  for  visiting  their  island — “  That  as  we  inhabited 
an  island  without  any  women,  we  wanted  to  have  some.”  Nothing 
more  was  said  to  them  on  the  subject.  They  accompanied  us  to  the 
boats,  and  at  parting  went  through  the  same  ceremonies  of  rubbing 
noses,  shaking  hands,  and  raising  their  arms  with  the  palms  towards 
us.  According  to  the  estimate  I  made  of  the  inhabitants,  the  number 
was  about  ninety.  From  the  great  age  of  the  chiefs,  and  the  absence 
of  wounded  or  scarred  individuals,  I  should  believe  they  lived  in 
peace.  They,  however,  gave  their  neighbours  on  the  small  island  to 
the  west  (which  they  called  Otooho),  a  very  bad  name.  Water  in 
small  quantities  is  to  be  had  on  the  eastern  section  of  the  island,  and 
a  little  biche  de  mar  might  be  taken  on  the  reefs.  A  small  rat  was 


336 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


very  troublesome  to  the  natives.  This  island  has  some  Cocoa-nut, 
Bread-fruit,  and  Pandanus  trees;  the  Pisonia,  Tournefortia,  and  the 
shrubs  that  are  common  to  the  low  islands,  also  grow  upon  it. 

The  huts  of  the  natives  scarcely  deserve  the  name ;  they  are  merely 
four  or  five  poles,  with  both  ends  stuck  in  the  ground,  forming  an 
arch  on  which  strips  are  tied,  and  over  these  the  leaves  of  the  cocoa- 
nut,  mats,  and  grass  are  laid.  They  are  about  six  or  eight  feet  long, 
four  feet  high,  and  about  five  feet  wide,  barely  sufficient  to  keep  out 
the  sun,  and  entirely  useless  as  a  protection  from  rain. 


NATIVE  HUT. 


Their  utensils  are  small,  and  seemed  ill  adapted  to  their  use. 
Their  baskets  were  suspended  from  the  tops  of  their  huts  and  from 
trees.  The  natives  seemed  destitute  of  tapa.  No  anchorage  was 
found  at  this  island. 

At  nightfall  the  squadron  was  put  under  short  sail,  supposing  that 
the  current  by  the  morning  would  take  us  to  the  leeward  near 
Otooho,  a  distance  of  ten  miles.  It  lies  west-northwest  of  Wytoohee, 
distant  twelve  and  one-third  miles,  and  is  distinctly  seen  from  it,  like 
a  round  knoll.  This  appearance  is  owing  to  the  trees  upon  it,  for  the 
land  is  as  low  as  coral  islands  usually  are.  We  found  by  the  morn¬ 
ing,  that  the  current  had  been  about  one  mile  per  hour  to  the  west, 
and  therefore  much  stronger  than  I  anticipated.  We  were  in  conse¬ 
quence  some  distance  to  leeward  of  the  island.  With  the  light  wind, 
I  knew  the  ship  could  not  reach  the  island  before  the  afternoon.  I 
immediately  sent  the  naturalists  on  board  the  tender  Flying-Fish, 
and  gave  Lieutenant  Pinckney  orders  to  endeavour  to  land  them,  and 
to  pass  around  the  island  and  survey  it;  neither  of  which  he  suc¬ 
ceeded  in  doing.  The  survey  was  finally  completed  by  the  boats  of 
the  Vincennes  and  Peacock.  The  naturalists  endeavoured  to  effect  a 
landing,  but  were  opposed  by  some  dozen  natives,  who  were  resolute 
in  preventing  them  from  going  beyond  the  water’s  edge;  in  other 
respects  they  were  disposed  to  be  quite  friendly. 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


337 


The  chief  was  an  old  man,  and  was  induced  to  venture  off  towards 
the  boat.  One  of  the  gentlemen  swam  to  those  on  shore ;  his  recep¬ 
tion  was  similar  to  that  met  with  at  the  other  islands :  rubbing  noses, 
kissing,  and  shaking  of  hands.  Whenever  he  attempted  to  lay  his 
hands  on  them,  they  started  back,  but  were  continually  pawing  and 
whining  over  him,  making  a  kind  of  purring  noise,  not  unlike  that  by 
which  we  propitiate  or  soothe  the  feelings  or  doubtful  temper  of  some 
beast.  They  presented  them  with  mats  made  of  the  pandanus  leaf,  and 
also  pieces  of  worn-out  tapa,  in  return  for  many  articles  received,  but 
would  not  suffer  onr  people  to  put  their  feet  upon  dry  ground,  and 
when  it  was  attempted,  kept  shoving  them  gently  into  the  water. 
The  naturalists  in  the  afternoon  endeavoured  to  effect  a  landing  at 
another  place,  out  of  sight  of  the  natives,  and  succeeded.  -  Mr.  Brack- 
enridge,  on  landing  the  second  time,  ran  to  the  thicket,  in  order  to 
lose  no  time  in  making  collections,  and  was  employed  in  gathering 
specimens,  when  two  stout  natives  came  running  up,  and  made  him 
understand,  by  very  intelligible  signs,  that  he  must  return  to  the  boat ; 
he  pretended  not  to  understand  them,  and  endeavoured  to  proceed, 
but  they  went  before  him,  and  crossed  their  clubs,  determined  that 
he  should  go  no  farther.  This  caused  him  to  laugh,  in  which  the 
two  natives  joined.  Finding  there  was  no  alternative,  he  took  an 
oblique  direction  towards  the  boat,  hoping  by  this  means  to  enlarge 
his  collection,  which  he  succeeded  in  doing,  while  the  natives,  as  he 
describes  it,  shouldered  him  out  of  the  bush,  and  then  towards  the 
boat.  The  rest  of  the  party  having  gone  up  to  the  huts,  were  at  once 
seized  and  shoved  down  towards  the  boat  and  into  the  surf,  where 
they  presented  rather  a  ludicrous  appearance,  with  the  danger  of 
drowning  on  the  one  side,  and  the  natives  on  the  other,  who  had  them 
completely  in  their  power,  as  they  had  neither  arms  nor  any  other 
means  of  defence.  No  harm,  however,  was  done  them,  but  the  alarm 
incident  to  being  threatened  with  spears.  The  only  mishap  met 
with  was  the  loss,  by  one  of  the  gentlemen,  of  a  pair  of  spectacles, 
and  a  bruise  or  two  from  the  coral  in  their  hurried  retreat.  As  the 
surf  was  heavy,  life-preservers  were  sent  to  those  who  could  not 
swim;  and  after  much  detention  they  reached  the  boat  in  safety. 
Had  such  a  circumstance  occurred  at  Clermont  de  Tonnerre,  I  am 
satisfied  that  most  serious  consequences  would  have  resulted  to  us. 

The  superficial  extent  of  the  island  of  Otooho  is  about  a  square 
mile;  it  has  no  lagoon,  is  well  covered  with  trees,  and  has  fresh 

85 


VOL,.  I. 


338 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


water.  There  were  nineteen  men  counted,  which  would  make  the 
population  about  fifty  souls.  No  women  or  children  were  seen. 

At  all  the  inhabited  islands  we  found  the  greatest  numbers  of  the 
common  house-fly,  while  at  Honden  Island  (uninhabited)  none  were 
perceived.  No  one  can  estimate  the  annoyance  they  cause,  until  it 
has  been  experienced. 

The  huts  of  the  natives  of  Otooho  are  different  from  those  of  the 
neighbouring  island,  but  fully  as  rude. 

At  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour  after  sunset,  the  naturalists  were 
again  on  board,  and  we  bore  away  on  our  course  to  Raraka.  Having 
been  informed  that  several  islands  were  supposed  to  be  in  this 
neighbourhood,  that  were  known  to  the  natives,  but  not  laid  down  on 
the  charts,  I  determined  to  lie  to  during  the  night,  and  at  daylight  we 
again  bore  away,  spreading  the  squadron  in  open  order  of  sailing. 

On  the  29th,  at  daylight,  land  was  reported,  and  we  soon  ascer¬ 
tained  that  it  was  not  laid  down  on  the  charts.  It  is  low,  nearly 
of  a  circular  form,  and  well  covered  with  trees  and  shrubs,  and  has 
a  lagoon  of  some  extent.  Its  centre  is  in  latitude  15°  42'  25"  S., 
longitude  144°  38'  45"  W.  I  named  it  King’s  Island,  after  the  man 
at  the  masthead  who  first  discovered  it.  After  completing  the  survey 
of  it,  we  landed  on  its  lee  side,  where  the  water  was  quite  smooth, 
and  spent  the  afternoon  in  examining  it.  There  were  no  natives 
on  it,  but  every  indication  that  it  had  been  inhabited  recently  by 
a  party  of  pearl  fishers.  The  lagoon  appears  to  be  well  supplied 
with  the  pearl  oyster.  We  found  on  the  island  two  small  springs 
of  fresh  water,  near  its  lagoon,  and  a  good  supply  of  cocoa-nuts. 
Many  specimens  of  plants  were  obtained,  and  several  interesting 
objects  of  natural  history  were  added  to  our  collections;  for  an  account 
of  these,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  reports  of  the  naturalists. 

This  island  had  more  soil  on  it  than  any  yet  met  with,  and  seemed 
to  be  productive.  Large  quantities  of  cocoa-nuts  were  lying  about  in 
heaps,  that  had  been  gathered  by  those  who  had  visited  it  before  us. 

The  magnetic  observations  were  also  made  here.  The  width  of 
the  island  to  the  lagoon  was  found  to  be  twelve  hundred  feet.  A 
very  narrow  reef  surrounded  it,  and  the  whole  island  was  but  six  feet 
above  the  sea  reef.  No  coral  blocks  were  seen.  It  lies  twenty  miles 
to  the  northeast  of  Raraka.  There  is  no  opening  to  the  lagoon,  and 
the  island  is  thickly  wooded  all  round.  An  old  canoe  was  found 
very  much  decayed  and  broken,  and  the  remains  of  a  hut  on  the  beach. 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


339 


In  the  morning  we  bore  away  for  Raraka,  and  shortly  afterwards 
made  it.  As  we  approached  it  another  island  was  discovered,  to  the 
northward  and  westward,  which  was  not  laid  down  on  any  charts. 

On  Raraka  we  soon  discovered  a  party  of  natives,  near  the 
entrance  to  the  lagoon,  waving  a  Tahitian  flag,  three  horizontal 
stripes,  red,  white,  and  red.  They  were  partly  dressed,  some  in 
shirts,  without  hats,  others  with  vests,  and  others  again  with  trousers 
of  all  colours.  I  joined  the  schooner,  stood  in  for  the  mouth  of  the 
lagoon,  and  landed. 

Nothing  could  be  more  striking  than  the  difference  that  prevailed 
between  these  natives  and  those  of  the  Disappointment  Islands,  which 
we  had  just,  left.  The  half-civilization  of  these  natives  was  very 
marked,  and  it  appeared  as  though  we  had  issued  out  of  darkness 
into  light.  They  showed  a  modest  disposition,  and  gave  us  a  hearty 
welcome.  We  were  not  long  at  a  loss  to  know  to  what  to  ascribe  it : 
the  missionary  had  been  at  work  here,  and  his  exertions  had  been 
based  upon  a  firm  foundation;  the  savage  had  been  changed  to  a 
reasonable  creature.  Among  the  inhabitants  was  a  native  missionary, 
who  had  been  instrumental  in  this  work.  If  the  missionaries  had 
effected  nothing  else,  they  would  deserve  the  thanks  of  all  those  who 
roam  over  this  wide  expanse  of  ocean,  and  incur  its  many  unknown 
and  hidden  dangers.  Here  all  shipwrecked  mariners  would  be  sure 
of  kind  treatment,  and  a  share  of  the  few  comforts  these  people 
possess.  No  savage  mistrust  and  fear  were  seen  here.  The  women 
and  children  came  about  us,  receiving  our  trifles.  They  showed 
much  joy  and  curiosity  at  the  sight  of  us,  and  were  eager  to  supply 
our  wants.  The  chief  was  an  old  man,  much  tattooed  about  the 
breast  and  arms,  which  gave  him  the  appearance  of  a  blue  and 
brown  checker-board;  others  had  large  rosettes  on  their  legs,  and 
horizontal  bands  on  the  back,  passing  a  considerable  distance  on  each 
side  of  the  spine,  elaborately  executed  in  various  patterns. 

This  is  believed  to  be  the  tattooing 
peculiar  to  the  inhabitants  of  Anaa 
or  Chain  Island.  They  frequent  the 
different  islands  of  the  group,  and 
are  generally  employed  by  those  who 
are  engaged  in  the  shell  fishery. 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  the  modest  and  quiet  behaviour 
of  the  native  missionary,  who  was  a  Tahitian.  He  kept  himself 
aloof,  whilst  all  the  others  were  crowding  round  to  partake  in  the 


340 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


presents  we  were  distributing,  and  seemed  much  gratified  and  asto¬ 
nished  when  I  selected  him  out  to  bestow  a  present  on,  similar  to  the 
one  I  had  given  the  chief. 

All  the  males’  heads  were  shaven,  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  a 
Dominican  friar.  This  practice  is  said  to  have  been  adopted  by  the 
missionaries  at  Tahiti,  for  the  sake  of  cleanliness,  and  also  to  dis¬ 
tinguish  the  Christian  from  the  heathen  party.  The  women  have 
theirs  cut  close,  and  some  are  clothed  in  a  pareu,  consisting  of  three 
or  four  yards  of  cotton,  others  in  a  loose  gown.  They  were  any  thing 
but  good-looking;  but  the  men  were  tall  and  well  made.  Their 
variety  of  apparel  was  droll  enough.  As  for  the  children,  I  have 
seldom  seen  any  finer ;  all  were  well  formed,  and  as  cheerful  as  they 
could  be.  They  were  for  the  most  part  naked.  About  two  hundred 
inhabitants  were  counted  on  the  island,  most  of  whom  belonged  to 
Tahiti  and  Anaa,  or  Chain  Island,  and  were  here  on  a  shelling 
voyage.  They  had  arrived  in  two  double  canoes,  such  as  have  been 
used  in  navigating  from  island  to  island ;  they  were  now  drawn  up  on 
the  beach.  These  vessels  were  apparently  well  taken  care  of,  and  in 
this  situation  we  had  a  good  opportunity  of  examining  them.  The 
annexed  is  a  faithful  representation  of  one. 


They  are  thirty-five  feet  long  and  four  and  a  half  feet  wide, 
connected  together  by  a  strong  framework,  on  which  is  placed  a 
deck,  and  a  mat  hut  erected  on  it.  Every  part  is  neatly  put  together, 
and  well  secured  with  twine  and  sennit  made  of  cocoa-nut  fibres ;  no 
iron  or  metal  of  any  kind  is  used  about  them ;  they  have  two  masts, 
supported  by  vines  in  place  of  ropes,  and  are  enabled  to  spread  large 
mat  sails ;  they  steer  with  a  large  oar.  After  examining  them,  one  is 
not  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the  long  voyages  which  the  natives  have 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


341 


"been  sometimes  able  to  accomplish  in  them.  They  find  no  difficulty 
in  navigating  them,  and  are  now  learning  the  use  of  the  compass, 
but  I  am  informed  they  still  prefer  sailing  by  the  stars  and  sun,  and 
seldom  make  any  great  error.  Navigating  as  they  do  from  island  to 
island,  they  have  not  unfrequently  been  overtaken  by  storms,  and 
some  have  been  lost,  while  others  have  taken  refuge  or  been  wrecked 
upon  other  islands,  and  have  been  absent  from  their  own  several 
years.  These  gales  they  say  come  from  the  northwest.  They  live 
here  in  small  huts,  which  are  rather  an  improvement  upon  those  of 
the  islanders  we  have  already  seen ;  they  are  formed  of  poles,  with 
a  mat  covering,  and  are  carried  with  them  on  their  voyages. 

Though  scarcely  able  to  protect  them  from  the  weather,  yet  these 
huts  are  clean,  and  lined  with  mats.  Their  persons  seemed  cleanly 
also,  and  they  showed  a  great  disposition  to  oblige  us.  Some 
attention  was  paid  to  cultivation,  as  was  evinced  in  the  plantation 
and  care  of  their  cocoa-nut  groves,  as  if  wishing  to  provide  for  their 
future  wants.  The  trees  of  the  young  plantations  were  all  carefully 
staked  around.  Their  food  consists  of  dried  fish,  somewhat  similar 
to  a  whiting,  of  which  they  had  a  good  and  plentiful  supply,  and  also 
of  the  masi,  a  preparation  of  the  bread-fruit,  which  they  were  keep¬ 
ing  for  their  return  voyage. 

This  was  the  first  island  on  which  we  observed  the  dawning  of 
Christianity  and  civilization.  The  native  missionaries,  although 
they  are  yet  ignorant  of  most  of  the  duties  enjoined  upon  a  Christian, 
still  do  much  good  in  preparing  the  way.  Many  learn  to  read,  and 
some  even  to  write,  under  their  tuition;  yet  they  have  many 
impediments  thrown  in  the  way  of  their  efforts  by  the  introduction 
of  spirits  by  the  whites.  The  old  chief,  and  others,  are  much 
addicted  to  the  use  of  it,  and  the  vessels  resorting  here  for  the 
pearl  fishery  generally  employ  native  divers,  and  pay  them  for  the 
most  part  in  ram  or  whiskey.  We  found  here  an  Englishman  who 
had  belonged  to  a  schooner  engaged  in  the  pearl  fishery.  He  told 
me  he  had  been  left  sick  there  by  his  vessel,  and  had  been  kindly 
treated  during  his  stay  of  three  months  on  the  island.  I  was  in 
hopes  of  obtaining  some  information  from  him,  but  he  knew  little 
or  nothing  of  the  language,  and,  moreover,  was  a  stupid  fellow.  I 
gave  him  a  passage  to  Tahiti,  whither  he  was  desirous  of  going,  in 
the  tender. 

Having  some  business  on  board,  I  invited  the  chief  to  go  off  with 
me :  he  first  inquired  if  all  the  boats  and  men  were  to  stay ;  on  my 

86 


VOL.  I. 


342 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


telling  him  they  were  not,  he  said  he  would  go  on  board  if  I  would 
also  take  his  wife,  and  her  brother, — to  which  I  consented. 

The  chief  had  lost  one  hand,  which  he  informed  me  had  been 
bitten  off  by  a  shark  whilst  employed  in  diving  for  shells.  We 
became  great  friends,  and  he  thought  it  necessary  to  be  at  my  side 
the  whole  time.  He  was  an  odd  old  man,  and  proved  before  we  left 
him  that  he  had  become  acquainted  with  some  of  the  vices  of  civi¬ 
lization. 

We  all  embarked,  soon  reached  the  tender,  and  bore  away  for  the 
ship,  some  three  or  four  miles  distant.  The  old  one-handed  chief 
now  came  up  to  me  in  a  very  mysterious  manner,  and  untying  a  knot 
in  the  tail  of  his  shirt  (which  was  the  only  garment  he  wore  besides 
his  maro,)  with  no  small  difficulty,  with  one  hand  and  his  teeth,  drew 
from  it  a  small  dirty  piece  of  linen,  tied  up  as  a  bag ;  this  he  produced 
with  great  form,  and  evidently  expected  to  astonish  me.  The 
contents  proved  to  be  a  few  small  discoloured  pearls ;  these  he 
begged  me  to  accept,  but  I  declined  to  receive  them.  We  now 
reached  the  ship,  and  I  ordered  every  thing  to  be  shown  them.  Their 
surprise  was  very  great.  While  on  board,  Messrs.  Drayton  and 
Agate  succeeded  in  getting  a  most  accurate  portrait  of  him. 


PORTRAIT  OF  THE  ONE-HANDED  CHIEF. 

The  natives  were  much  amused  with  the  ship,  and  surprised  at  the 
number  of  men  on  board.  Many  small  presents  were  given  them. 
When  they  were  about  taking  their  departure,  the  old  chief  com¬ 
plained  of  being  quite  sick,  and  his  whole  air  and  manner  showed 
that  he  was  much  dissatisfied.  The  reason  could  not  be  imagined. 
The  vessel  had  so  little  motion,  it  was  thought  it  could  not  originate 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


343 


from  sea-sickness.  I  therefore  told  the  interpreter  to  inquire  of  him 
what  was  the  matter.  No  answer  was  given  for  some  time,  but 
they  consulted  much  among  themselves  in  a  low  tone.  The  question 
was  again  repeated,  when  the  old  chief’s  wife  answered,  “  that  I 
had  not  returned  the  present  that  had  been  offered  me,  and  that  the 
chief  was  not  pleased,  for,  according  to  their  customs,  the  offering  a 
present  to  me  entitled  him  to  receive  one  in  return.”  As  very  many 
had  been  made  him  already,  this  amused  me  not  a  little,  and  on 
being  asked  what  it  was  they  wanted,  they  at  once  signified  whiskey, 
which  they  said  was  always  given  them  when  they  went  on  board 
ship,  and  the  chief  wanted  some,  for  he  was  very  sick.  I  accord¬ 
ingly  ordered  a  bottle  of  water  with  a  gill  of  whiskey  in  it  to  be 
given  them,  and  the  moment  they  smelt  it  their  manner  was  changed ; 
they  became  all  animation,  and  left  the  ship  in  great  good  humour. 
Mr.  Waldron  presented  them  with  two  sheep,  of  which  they  appeared 
quite  proud.  The  brother  was  quite  an  intelligent  native ;  he  drew 
for  me  with  a  piece  of  chalk,  on  the  deck,  all  the  islands  he  was 
acquainted  with,  with  considerable  accuracy,  giving  their  relative 
situations,  and  the  native  names.  That  of  the  island  we  had  seen 
the  day  before,  as  Tai-a-ra,  and  the  one  to  which  I  had  given  the 
name  of  Vincennes  Island,  as  Kawahe.  He  told  me  of  three  small 
islands  to  the  southward  of  Sacken,  which  were  afterwards  found 
by  the  Porpoise,  during  the  cruise  to  this  group  on  which  I  sent 
her  in  1840 ;  his  knowledge  of  the  western  part  of  this  group  was 
quite  surprising. 

On  the  next  day  we  landed  early,  and  passed  the  whole  of  it  on 
shore  making  observations.  We  found  this  was  taboo-day  or  their 
Sabbath,  although  it  was  Saturday  with  us,  and  all  the  natives 
seemed  to  be  enjoying  its  quiet  and  peace.  Few  of  them  were  to 
be  seen,  and  they  exhibited  but  little  curiosity,  and  no  persuasion 
could  induce  them  to  employ  themselves  in  getting  fish  and  shells  for 
us.  We  obtained  a  full  set  of  observations  to  determine  the  position, 
and  also  those  for  magnetic  results.  I  place  the  entrance  to  the 
lagoon  of  Raraka  in  longitude  144°  57'  40”  W.,  latitude  16°  06' 
25”  S.  The  result  of  our  day’s  observations  gave  the  tides,  at  full 
and  change  of  the  moon,  two  o’clock,  and  three  feet  in  height ;  the 
shore,  however,  showed  that  there  were  at  times  very  high  tides.  The 
natives  said,  when  it  was  a  round  moon  they  had  very  high  water. 

The  entrance  to  the  lagoon  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  about 
one-third  of  its  length  from  the  western  end.  It  is  a  narrow  passage, 
but  will  admit  a  small  vessel.  The  current  runs  very  strong  out 


344 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


of  the  lagoon,  so  much  so,  that  a  boat  cannot  pull  against  it.  The 
entrance  is  from  five  to  eight  fathoms  deep,  but  there  is  no  advantage 
in  entering,  as  the  reef  is  quite  as  steep  within.  A  small  vessel  map 
anchor  on  the  outside,  in  ten  fathoms,  close  to  the  shore.  This  island 
is  nearly  of  the  shape  of  an  equilateral  triangle,  and  its  southern  and 
eastern  sides  are  formed  by  a  submerged  reef.  It  is  fifteen  miles  on 
each  side. 

The  chief,  on  our  second  visit,  was  at  first  not  altogether  free  from 
alarm  at  the  sight  of  so  many  persons  on  shore ;  but  each  one  bring¬ 
ing  himself,  his  wife,  or  people,  some  small  present,  soon  reconciled 
him  to  their  presence.  Among  the  sailors  he  contrived  to  get  some 
grog,  which  intoxicated  him,  and  he  became  of  a  most  joyous  tem¬ 
perament  and  full  of  affection. 

The  way  of  catching  fish  practised  here  is  quite  amusing,  and  to  it 
we  owe  the  many  specimens  in  that  department  of  natural  history 
which  we  obtained.  The  natives  enjoy  the  sport  amazingly,  and  both 
old  and  young  are  all  in  some  way  participators  in  it.  Near  the 
mouth  of  the  lagoon  are  laid  some  coral  stones,  forming  a  rude 
and  shallow  pen,  with  a  channel  leading  to  it ;  several  natives  proceed 
about  one-third  of  a  mile  up  the  beach  of  the  lagoon,  where  they 
enter  the  water,  ranging  themselves  in  a  row,  the  tallest  in  the 
deepest  water.  They  then  move  along  down  towards  the  pen,  quite 
noiselessly  at  first,  driving  the  fish  before  them.  As  they  approach, 
they  begin  to  splash  and  make  a  noise,  which  gradually  increases, 
until  it  becomes  one  continued  shout.  They  then  contract  them¬ 
selves  towards  the  pen,  and  the  fish  are  seen  jumping  and  dashing 
in  all  directions,  as  if  very  much  alarmed,  until  they  are  forced  to 
enter  the  pen,  which  is  then  closed  with  a  few  stones,  after  which 
they  begin  to  spear  them  with  great  dexterity,  and  many  were 
obtained.  It  was  gratifying  to  witness  the  pleasure  both  old  and 
young  appeared  to  take  in  this  employment,  and  quite  surprising  that 
the  fish  do  not  escape  over  the  low  wall  that  surrounds  them,  but 
two  or  three  inches  above  the  water,  but  they  appear  bewildered. 
The  natives  regretted  that  their  success  was  so  small,  and  imputed 
it  to  the  water  being  too  high.  Some  fresh  water  may  be  obtained 
here.  The  spring  or  pond  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  entrance. 
What  the  natives  had  in  their  cocoa-nut  shells  was  sweet.  It  is, 
however,  in  no  great  abundance. 

Many  specimens  were  added  here  to  our  collections.  This  was 
one  of  the  islands  in  which  I  attempted  to  sound  the  lagoon.  We 
began  at  the  entrance,  but  found  within  a  very  short  distance,  that 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


345 


the  depth  increased  to  thirty  fathoms,  the  water  being  as  bine  as  the 
ocean.  So  great  a  depth  made  it  an  undertaking  far  beyond  what 
my  time  allowed.  The  sounding  in  every  case  of  any  depth  was 
coral  sand. 

Towards  sunset  we  all  embarked,  and  my  leave-taking  with  the 
old  chief  was  amusing.  He  and  all  his  household  and  retinue  began 
to  cry  and  whine  over  me,  so  that  I  was  glad  to  escape  from  the  dis¬ 
play  of  so  much  friendship  and  parental  affection. 

After  reaching  my  ship,  the  Porpoise  again  joined  us.  She  had 
been  despatched  early  in  the  morning  towards  the  eastern  end  of  the 
island ,  to  ascertain  its  extent,  and  fix  its  eastern  point ;  not  being 
able  to  accomplish  this,  Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold  returned 
for  further  orders.  This  night  we  lay  to  under  the  lee  of  Raraka, 
but  as  it  proved  dark  and  squally,  we  stood  to  the  northward,  and 
about  1  o’clock  we  were  surprised  by  seeing  a  signal  from  the  Pea¬ 
cock,  of  danger  close  aboard,  under  the  lee.  I  immediately  tacked, 
and  we  soon  cleared  it.  It  proved  to  be  the  reef  of  Kawahe,  over 
which  the  surf  was  breaking  violently.  The  Peacock  was  so  close  to 
it,  that  Captain  Hudson  felt  himself  obliged  to  stand  on  his  course, 
rather  than  run  the  risk  of  miss-staying,  and  continued  to  run  along 
it  for  several  miles,  until,  by  its  trending  to  the  westward,  he  was 
enabled  to  clear  the  danger. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  at  daylight,  we  found  ourselves  between 
the  two  islands,  and  the  Peacock  was  out  of  sight,  but  two  hours 
afterwards  was  again  seen.  I  made  signal  to  the  Porpoise,  and 
despatched  her  to  examine  the  southeast  side  of  Raraka,  and  thence 
to  follow  on  to  the  westward  as  far  as  Krusenstern’s  Island,  passing 
along  the  south  side  of  Nairsa  or  Dean’s  Island.  I  then  despatched  the 
Peacock  to  the  north  end,  and  the  tender  to  the  south  end  of  Kawahe, 
to  secure  meridian  observations,  whilst  the  Vincennes  was  employed 
in  surveying  its  eastern  shores.  The  wind  was  well  adapted  to  our 
object,  and  at  sunset  we  met  off  the  north  end,  having  completed  our 
work.  The  current  was  tried,  but  we  found  none.  The  wind  was 
fresh  from  the  eastward,  with  occasional  squalls.  On  the  morning  of 
the  2d,  I  determined  to  land  the  naturalists  on  the  newly  found 
island,  and  for  this  purpose  made  signal  to  the  tender  to  come 
within  hail.  My  ship  was  lying  with  her  main-topsail  to  the  mast, 
and  forging  ahead  about  a  knot  an  hour.  The  tender  came  up  on 
our  lee  quarter,  and  luffed  in  an  awkward  manner,  directly  across 
our  bow.  Her  mast  just  escaped  coming  in  contact  with  our  jib-boom. 

87 


VOL.  I. 


346 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


I  at  once  ordered  all  the  sails  of  the  Vincennes  to  be  thrown  aback, 
which  stopping  her  way,  prevented  the  dreadful  accident  of  running 
the  tender  down.  It  was  a  most  miraculous  escape. 

We  landed  on  Vincennes  Island,  and  obtained  the  usual  observa¬ 
tions.  Its  south  point  is  in  latitude  15°  59'  48"  S.,  longitude 
145°  09'  30"  W.  It  was  found  to  be  sixteen  miles  long  by  ten  wide ; 
its  greatest  diameter  lying  north  and  south.  It  is  a  narrow  annular 
ridge,  consisting  of  many  blocks  and  slabs  of  coral,  which  give  a 
dinky  sound  when  struck.  The  coral  shelf  seemed  to  dip  in.  one 
place  at  an  angle  of  15°,  forming  a  ridge,  which  was  so  low  that  the 
tide  was  beginning  to  flow  over  it  before  high  water.  There  is  an 
opening  into  the  lagoon  on  the  southwest  side ;  on  its  southeastern 
part  is  a  high  clump  of  trees,  looking  like  a  knoll  at  a  distance.  The 
rest  of  the  island  is  covered  with  a  growth  of  bushes,  ten  or  twelve 
feet  high.  The  blocks  and  slabs  above  spoken  of  were  very  much 
water-worn,  and  were  strewn  about  on  the  coral  shelf.  This,  where 
I  measured  it,  was  five  hundred  feet  wide,  but  it  is  not  of  equal 
width  in  all  parts.  Among  the  coral  blocks  was  some  sand,  and  in 
many  of  the  blocks  were  found  large  specimens  of  the  chama  and 
other  shells.  I  was  informed  at  liar  aka,  that  there  were  a  few 
inhabitants  on  Vincennes  Island,  but  none  were  seen  by  us.  They 
were  said  to  live  on  the  southern  end  of  it. 

After  finishing  our  observations,  we  returned  on  board,  and  made 
sail  for  Aratica,  or  Carlshoff  Island.  We  arrived  off  it  in  time  to 
secure  its  connexion  with  Vincennes  Island,  the  distance  was  found 


NATIVE  OF  PAUMOTU  GROUT. 


by  patent  log,  and  astronomical  observations,  to  be  twenty  miles  to 
the  westward,  after  which  we  stood  on  and  off  its  eastern  point 


WMsiW 

mkp 

wi'W 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


347 


for  the  night.  The  next  morning  at  daylight  we  began  its  survey. 
The  tender  wTas  despatched  round  its  northern  shore,  whilst  the  Pea¬ 
cock  and  Vincennes  took  its  southern  side,  running  close  along  the 
reef,  which  continued  submerged  until  near  its  southwestern  end, 
which  is  twelve  feet  high  and  thickly  wooded.  On  rounding  the 
point,  we  saw  a  white  flag  waved  by  several  natives  on  the  beach. 
I  immediately  despatched  a  boat,  with  an  officer,  who  brought  off  two 
of  the  principal  natives,  one  of  whom  spoke  a  little  English,  and 
proved  quite  intelligent.  He  was  tattooed  only  on  one  side,  from 
the  pubis  to  the  sternum,  bounded  by  broad  blue  bands,  which 
divided  and  terminated  under  each  ear. 

He  reported  that  there  were  about  twenty  natives  on  the  island, 
and  that  they  had  frequent  intercourse  with  vessels  that  had  visited 
them.  They  informed  me  that  water  was  to  be  had  on  the  island. 
Finding  ourselves  short  of  this  necessary  article,  I  despatched  several 
boats  to  procure  it.  Aratica  is  eight  miles  in  length  by  five  in 
breadth. 

All  the  naturalists  were  sent  on  shore,  with  as  many  of  the  officers 
as  could  be  spared  from  duty.  We  landed  near  what  the  natives 
called  their  village.  This  consisted  of  one  or  two  huts,  built  in  a 
grove  of  large  trees,  consisting  principally  of  Pisonias,  fifty  or  sixty 
feet  in  height.  Some  of  these  had  been  felled  (with  a  small  hatchet, 
of  which  they  possessed  only  one,)  to  build  canoes.  It  is  principally 
used  for  out-riggers,  being  light  and  durable,  and  well  adapted  for  that 
purpose.  We  found  two  canoes  partly  dug  out.  The  woods  were 
quite  thick  and  forest-like.  The  inhabitants  of  the  village  consisted 
of  four  men,  two  women,  a  dog,  and  a  cat;  the  remainder  of  the 
inhabitants  live  on  the  northeast  side.  The  lagoon  abounds  with 
fish,  and  has  several  small  coral  knolls  in  it,  though  none  with  much 
vegetation  on  them.  This  is  the  most  elevated  of  the  low  coral 
islands  we  had  yet  met  with. 

It  has  a  deep  entrance  into  its  lagoon,  on  the  west  side. 

The  same  formation  presents  itself  here,  of  three  distinct  shelves  : 
the  one  submerged,  narrow,  and  shelving  rapidly,  the  other  broad, 
level,  and  covered  at  high  water,  but  quite  bare  at  low,  and  having 
the  same  longitudinal  cracks  in  it.  On  the  upper  one  is  the  usual 
accumulation  of  coral  debris  and  sand,  on  which  the  vegetation 
grows. 

On  the  lagoon  side  the  beach  slopes  gradually,  and  there  is  seldom 
found  any  decided  break,  from  which  to  judge  of  the  thickness  of  the 


348 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


coral  shelf.  On  the  upper  shelf,  some  large  compact  coral  blocks  are 
found.  One  of  these  which  I  measured,  was  ten  by  twenty  feet.  It 
rested  upon  two  small  fragments,  the  remainder  having  been  gra¬ 
dually  worn  away  by  the  washing  of  the  sea ;  seemed,  in  fact,  to 
be  a  part  of  that  forming  the  second  or  upper  shelf  of  coral.  The 
wood-cut  comprises  several  that  were  seen  on  the  coral  islands,  and 
will  give  an  idea  of  their  shapes.  The  highest  point  of  the  island 
was  twelve  feet  above  low  water  mark. 


CORAL  BLOCKS. 


The  fresh  water  is  procured  from  a  large  pool,  about  fifty  feet  in 
diameter,  and  of  considerable  depth  ;  it  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
village,  to  the  north,  and  situated  within  the  line  of  woods.  Water¬ 
ing  is  very  troublesome  and  fatiguing  when  the  boats  are  outside,  and 
it  is  necessary  to  transport  it  a  long  distance,  but  our  leathern 
watering-bags,  made  it  less  difficult  for  us.  By  entering  the  lagoon 
through  the  opening,  the  boats  could  approach  very  near  the  pool. 
The  only  difficulty  to  be  found  would  be  in  passing  into  it  when  the 
tide  is  setting  out.  It  was  reported  that  there  was  enough  of  water 
to  supply  the  squadron.  The  water  was  thought  by  some  to  be  a 
little  brackish,  but  it  was  found  quite  potable. 

Many  botanical  specimens  were  obtained  here,  similar  to  those 
collected  on  the  other  islands ;  also  several  birds,  a  harmless  scorpion, 
and  lizards,  the  same  as  found  on  the  other  islands. 

The  reefs  were  covered  with  Holuthuria  and  some  Biche  de  mar, 
but  none  of  the  valuable  kinds,  and  we  also  obtained  a  large  number 
of  shells.  The  fish  here  are  said  to  be  poisonous,  but  the  natives, 
we  understood,  eat  some  of  the  kinds,  so  that  it  does  not  apply  to  the 
whole.  The  position  of  the  west  point  of  the  island  was  determined 
to  be  in  longitude  145°  39'  46"  W.,  and  latitude  15°  26'  S. 

Having  obtained  all  the  water  we  could  in  the  afternoon,  amounting 
to  three  hundred  and  ninety  gallons,  I  directed  the  course  of  the 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


349 


squadron  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  towards  King  George’s 
Group,  having  fresh  breezes  from  the  east-northeast.  The  next  day 
at  noon,  the  most  southern  island  was  in  sight,  and  finding  the  ships 
could  not  make  it  without  much  loss  of  time,  I  despatched  the  tender 
to  the  group,  with  orders  to  circumnavigate  and  examine  the  islands, 
and  then  to  follow  us  to  Tahiti,  whilst  the  Vincennes  and  Peacock 
bore  away  to  the  westward,  for  the  doubtful  island  of  Waterlandt. 
At  5  p.  m.  it  was  discovered  from  the  masthead,  and  at  six  from  the 
fore-yard,  bearing  northwest  by  north. 

We  stood  on  and  off  all  night,  and  at  daylight  again  made  the  land ; 
we  reached  its  north  point  at  4  o’clock  p.  m.,  when  the  Peacock  was 
ordered  to  take  the  east,  whilst  the  Vincennes  took  the  west  side ; 
we  continued  the  survey  until  dark,  when  we  took  the  necessary 
angles  to  resume  the  work  in  the  morning.  Many  natives  were  seen, 
and  smoke  rising  in  several  places.  On  the  6th  of  September,  we 
continued  our  surveying  operations,  and  shortly  afterwards  joined  the 
Peacock,  Captain  Hudson  having  completed  his  side  of  the  island. 
The  Peacock  now  made  the  signal  of  land  to  the  westward.  Wishing 
to  land  and  make  an  examination  of  this  island,  and  have  communi¬ 
cation  with  the  natives,  the  boats  were  lowered,  and  the  naturalists 
from  both  vessels,  and  many  officers,  landed,  and  rambled  over  the 
western  part  of  the  island  for  several  hours.  The  few  natives  were 
very  friendly,  and  informed  us  that  the  native  name  of  the  island  was 
Manhii.  This  is,  in  all  probability,  the  Waterlandt  of  Schouten  and 
Le  Maire,  and  also  Wilson’s  Island  of  the  Duff.  There  is  a  large 
and  deep  entrance  in  the  southeast  end  into  the  lagoon  of  Manhii 
Island,  in  which,  the  natives  informed  me,  vessels  had  often  anchored, 
whilst  engaged  in  the  pearl  fishery.  Many  cocoa-nut  trees  were  seen 
on  this  island,  and  fresh  water  is  to  be  procured  from  a  pool  on  the 
southwest  side.  The  island  at  this  end  is  upwards  of  half  a  mile  wide 
to  the  lagoon ;  the  coral  reef  is  here  quite  broad.  Soundings  are  not  to 
be  had  with  one  hundred  fathoms  of  line,  fifty  feet  from  the  edge  of  it. 

There  were  some  small  compact  coral  rocks  here  and  there,  but  no 
regular  upper  or  second  shelf ;  the  lower  coral  shelf  was  three  hundred 
feet  in  width,  and  had  many  long  longitudinal  cracks,  from  six  to 
eight  inches  wide,  resembling  those  seen  in  ice-fields.  In  some 
places  these  were  quite  deep,  and  in  the  chasms  numerous  shells  of  the 
chama  species  presented  their  beautiful  colours  to  view.  Some  of  the 
gentlemen  reported  that  they  found  a  stone  sarcophagus,  or  something 

88 


VOL.  I. 


350 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


much  resembling  one.  We  made  a  set  of  magnetic  observations  on 
this  island,  and  many  shells,  plants,  &c.,  were  procured. 

To  our  surprise,  one  of  the  men  of  the  Peacock,  by  the  name  of 
Penny,  deserted  here  from  the  boats.  He  had  been  formerly  much 
among  the  islands,  engaged  in  pearl  fishing,  and  spoke  the  language 
well.  Strict  search  was  made  for  him,  until  the  officer  in  charge  of 
the  boats  became  satisfied  that  he  had  no  intention  of  returning.  On 
hearing  of  it,  I  was  convinced  that  he  had  chosen  this  opportunity, 
particularly  as  he  must  have  been  aware  that  there  is  very  frequent 
communication  with  Tahiti.  The  chief  of  this  island  informed  us 
that  he  was  a  relative  of  the  one-handed  chief  of  Raraka. 

The  east  end  of  the  island  lies  in  latitude  14°  26'  22"  S.,  longitude 
146°  04'  20"  W. 

Several  of  us  had  our  feet  severely  blistered,  from  going  barefoot 
on  the  reefs,  and  were  made  very  uncomfortable  from  this  cause. 
After  returning  on  board,  we  bore  away  to  the  other  island,  to  which 
the  natives  gave  the  name  of  Ahii.  I  have  also  added  that  of  Pea¬ 
cock  Island,  to  mark  that  its  correct  position  was  first  established  by 
the  Expedition.  It  lies  west  three-fourths  north  per  compass  from 
Manhii,  and  was  found  by  the  patent  log  to  be  eight  and  six-tenths 
miles  from  reef  to  reef.  On  coming  up  with,  it  the  Vincennes  and 
Peacock  took  opposite  sides,  and  surveyed  it,  and  the  next  morning 
parties  landed.  I  was  hardly  able  to  move,  on  account  of  my  feet, 
but  the  desire  of  getting  observations  of  the  eclipse,  urged  me  to  make 
the  attempt ;  I,  however,  succeeded  in  getting  only  the  last  limb  and 
good  observations  for  time.  After  four  o’clock,  we  returned  on  board. 
This  island  is  not  inhabited,  and  has  only  a  small  boat-entrance  into 
its  lagoon,  on  the  west  side.  The  coral  belt  is  similar  to  that  last 
described ;  it  was  found  to  be  upwards  of  half  a  mile  in  width,  and 
was  covered  with  the  same  kind  of  vegetation  as  the  last,  excepting 
cocoa-nut  trees,  of  which  none  were  found  on  the  island.  The 
lagoon  is  quite  shallow.  A  favourite  fish  with  the  natives  is  found 
in  it,  and  at  certain  seasons  they  visit  the  island  for  the  purpose  of 
catching  them.  The  coral  shelf  varied  from  two  to  five  hundred 
feet  in  breadth. 

Being  desirous  of  making  the  examination  of  as  many  of  the  coral 
islands  as  possible,  I  now  despatched  the  Peacock  to  the  Arutua  or 
Rurick  Islands,  with  directions  to  examine  them,  and  then  to  proceed 
along  the  south  side  of  Dean’s  Island,  whilst,  in  the  Vincennes,  I 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


351 


steered  for  the  north  side  of  the  latter,  to  pass  along  it.  We  then 
parted  company,  and  Dean’s  Island  was  made  by  ns  the  next  morn¬ 
ing.  After  establishing  our  position,  we  ran  along  the  northern  shore, 
and  reached  its  western  point  at  4  P.  m.  Off  this  point  we  obtained 
sights  for  our  chronometers,  which  put  it  in  longitude  147°  58'  34" 
W.,  latitude  15°  05'  15"  S.  During  the  day  we  passed  an  entrance 
into  its  lagoon,  and  some  natives  came  off  from  a  small  village,  in 
two  canoes,  to  visit  us.  They  acknowledged  themselves  subjects  of 
Queen  Pomare  of  Tahiti,  and  were  very  desirous  we  should  land. 
They  brought  off  a  few  shells,  and  told  us  they  had  many  fowls,  pigs, 
taro,  &c.  There  are  several  islets  in  the  lagoon  covered  with  trees. 
Vast  numbers  of  large  blocks  were  seen  lying  on  its  reef.  The  shore- 
reef  is  not  more  than  two  hundred  feet  wide,  and  is  composed  of  but 
one  shelf.  The  current  was  tried,  but  none  was  found.  We  had 
the  wind  very  fresh  from  east  by  north  all  day.  When  off  the 
western  point  we  discovered  Krusenstern’s  Island  to  the  west,  and 
hauled  up  to  pass  between  it  and  Nairsa.  The  passage  was  found  to 
be  twelve  and  two-thirds  miles  wide,  and  free  from  all  danger.  In 
the  evening  I  stood  for  Metia  Island,  to  the  southward.  Nairsa  or 
Dean’s  Island  was  found  to  be  sixty-six  miles  in  length. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  September  we  were  in  sight  of 
Metia  or  Aurora  Island,  the  north  end  of  which  is  in  latitude  15° 
49'  35"  S.,  longitude  148°  13'  15"  W.  It  was  totally  different  in 
appearance  from  those  we  had  met  with,  though  evidently  of  the 
same  formation.  It  was  a  coral  island  uplifted,  exposing  its  for¬ 
mation  very  distinctly,  and  as  such  was  very  interesting.  On 
approaching  its  eastern  end,  I  sounded  at  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  from  its  perpendicular  cliff,  and  found  no  bottom  with  one 


hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  of  line.  The  cliff  appeared  worn  into 
caverns.  We  landed  close  in  its  neighbourhood,  and  on  measuring 
its  height  it  proved  to  be  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  coral 


352 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


shelf  was  found  to  be  five  hundred  feet  in  width,  extending  on  the 
north  side  of  the  island,  and  gradually  diminishing  in  width  until  it 
loses  itself  at  the  western  end.  This  island  has  all  the  features  that 
one  would  naturally  be  led  to  expect  from  a  low  island  uplifted. 
The  north,  east,  and  west  sides  present  a  perpendicular  cliff  or  wall, 
but  this  character  does  not  prevail  on  the  south  side,  although  it  has 
some  high  knolls.  The  north  ridge  is  nearly  level,  and  there  is  a 
break  through  it  (by  which  we  ascended  to  its  top)  very  much  like 
the  opening  of  a  lagoon.  The  north  side  is  concave,  and  there  is 
found  within  the  indentations  between  its  two  points,  an  extensive 
inclined  plain,  composed  of  large  masses  of  limestone  and  vegetable 
mould,  on  which  the  village  is  situated,  in  a  luxuriant  grove  of  bread¬ 
fruit,  cocoa-nut,  pandanus,  and  other  trees,  similar  to  those  already 
spoken  of,  as  seen  on  the  other  islands.  There  were  several  copious 
springs,  but  the  natives  informed  me  that  there  were  no  running 
streams  on  the  island. 

The  natives  all  seemed  delighted  to  see  us,  crowded  around  my 
boat,  and  assisted  to  haul  it  up ;  men,  women,  and  children  flocked 
around  us ;  all  the  population  were  gathered,  to  the  number  of  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty.  We  were  at  once  invited  to  the  chief’s  and 
native  missionary’s  house,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  village.  The 
house  was  constructed  of  the  bread-fruit  wood,  for  a  frame,  and  reeds 
of  the  wild  sugar-cane  for  the  uprights,  with  interstices  for  the 
passage  of  the  air,  and  was  lined  with  mats  to  exclude  it  when 
required.  It  was  well  thatched,  and  the  whole  had  a  cool  and 
comfortable  appearance.  Cocoa-nuts  were  soon  brought  us,  and  all 
our  questions  were  answered  with  an  alacrity  and  pleasure  that 
showed  their  strong  desire  to  oblige  and  assist  us. 

The  natives  had  gathered  in  crowds  around  the  door  to  look  at  us. 
They  were  a  fine-looking  race,  though  forming  rather  a  motley  group. 
The  manner  of  carrying  their  children  particularly  attracted  our 
notice;  it  had  a  pleasing  effect.  We  found  it  afterwards  practised 
throughout  Polynesia.  Many  questions  were  put  to  me,  and  now 
and  then  I  could  hear  a  voice  saying,  “  Me  ship,  captain,  me  go 
Tahiti.”  All  were  more  or  less  clothed  in  the  cast-off  garments  of 
whites,  and  not  very  particular  whether  they  possessed  one,  two,  or 
parts  of  garments,  as  long  as  it  appeared  different  from  their  own 
tapa,  and  of  foreign  fashion.  This  appeared  more  ridiculous,  for  on 
our  first  landing  few  were  to  be  seen  except  in  their  native  dresses, 
but  shortly  afterwards  one  might  have  believed  the  contents  of  all 


PAUMOTU  GROUP.  353 


MODE  OF  CARRYING  CHILDREN. 


the  old  clothes  shops  of  one  of  onr  cities  had  been  distributed  among 
them  :  storm  pea-jackets,  light  summer  pantaloons,  vests,  capes  of 
overcoats,  bell-crowned  hats,  checked  and  red  flannel  shirts,  most  of 
which  were  torn  or  worn  threadbare  in  many  places,  whilst  the 
women  had  bedecked  themselves  with  cocoa-nut  oil  and  turmeric, 
giving  them  a  bright  orange  cast.  Their  heads  were  adorned  with 
flowers,  and  they  evidently  considered  themselves  in  their  holiday 
attire.  They  had  an  abundance  of  pigs  and  poultry.  The  rich 
soil  on  the  upper  and  interior  part  of  the  island  produced  taro  (Arum 
esculentum),  sweet  potatoes  (Convolvulus  Batatas),  melons,  yams, 
and  some  tobacco,  while  the  bread-fruit  and  cocoa-nuts  were  hanging 
in  clusters  over  their  dwellings.  They  had  also  an  abundance  of 
crabs  and  fish ;  on  our  landing  we  found  them  devouring  the  latter 
with  great  gusto,  raw,  but  the  former  they  roasted.  Here  we  again 
saw  printed  copies  of  several  portions  of  the  Scriptures,  and  found 
that  many  of  them  could  read  and  write  well.  No  spears,  clubs, 
or  warlike  instruments  were  to  be  seen,  and  when  I  asked  for 
them  as  matters  of  curiosity,  they  said  they  had  no  arms  except  two 
muskets,  which  were  pointed  out  to  me,  hanging  up  under  the  eaves 
of  the  house.  The  native  missionary,  a  man  about  fifty  years  of 
age,  told  me  that  in  times  past  they  had  “all  war,’7  but  now  all  was 
vol.  1.  89 


354 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


peace.  I  was  desirous  of  knowing  to  what  he  imputed  the  change, 
and  he  very  readily  answered  “  Mittionari,  mai-tai,  mai-tai,”  (mis¬ 
sionary,  good,  good).  They  acknowledge  the  authority  of  Pomare 
of  Tahiti.  Dr.  Pickering,  who  was  in  company  with  me,  came  to 
propose  that  we  should  ascend  the  bluff,  which  the  chief,  being  made 
acquainted  with,  readily  gave  his  consent  to,  and  sent  for  two  men  to 
accompany  us.  We  ascended  through  the  narrow  break,  twenty 
to  thirty  feet  wide :  the  natives  had  improved  the  path  up  by 
placing  the  dinky  slabs  of  compact  coral,  as  a  rude  pavement,  and 
for  steps,  in  order  to  make  the  communication  more  easy  to  their 
planting  grounds.  On  reaching  the  top,  we  found  ourselves  in  a 
wood,  and  wishing  to  get  a  view  of  the  interior,  we  made  for  the 
east  end,  passing  occasionally  over  beds  of  dinky  coral,  thrown  and 
scattered  in  all  directions.  After  a  walk  of  more  than  a  mile,  we 
came  to  an  open  space,  from  which  we  had  a  clear  view  of  the 
interior  of  the  island,  which  was  found  to  be  densely  covered  with 
trees.  The  general  shape,  as  far  as  it  could  be  seen,  was  pan-like, 
or  in  the  form  of  a  dry  lagoon. 

This  island  was  particularly  interesting,  from  its  combining  both 
high  and  low  vegetation ;  and  a  very  considerable  collection  of  plants 
was  obtained.  Several  pigeons  were  seen,  two  of  which  we  obtained ; 
they  were  of  a  large  species  of  Columba  oceanica,  that  inhabits  these 
groups.  We  crossed  many  large  fissures,  running  in  a  line  with  the 
cliff,  some  of  them  two  or  three  feet  wide,  in  which  trees  of  some  size 
were  growing. 

As  far  as  our  observations  went,  the  upper  portion  of  this  island  is 
composed  of  limestone  or  compact  coral  rock ;  the  cliff,  on  its  eastern 
side,  where  we  first  landed,  appears  stratified,  horizontally,  in  beds  of 
ten  to  twelve  feet  in  thickness,  of  a  sort  of  conglomerate,  composed 
of  shells,  coral,  and  pieces  of  compact  rock,  cemented  together  by  a 
calcareous  deposit.  The  under  part  of  this  bed  had  been  much  worn 
by  the  sea;  the  rich  soil  was  composed  of  vegetable  matter  and 
decomposed  limestone.  The  slabs  that  were  lying  loose  upon  the 
surface  had  a  dinky  or  metallic  sound  when  struck.  The  island  has 
unequivocal  marks  of  having  been  uplifted  at  different  periods ;  the 
cliff,  at  two  different  heights,  appears  to  have  suffered  abrasion  by 
the  sea.  Stalagmites  were  observed  under  the  cliffs,  and  some 
stalactitic  columns,  fourteen  feet  high  by  six  in  diameter.  On 
coming  towards  the  village,  we  saw  many  natives  returning  with 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


355 


loads  of  taro,  &c.,  which  they  had  been  sent  to  gather.  On  onr 
retnrn,  we  were  taken  again  to  the  chief’s  house,  and  entertained 
with  cocoa-nuts,  baked  taro,  and  bread-fruit,  which  had  been  cooked 
during  our  absence.  At  the  boat  we  found  more  articles  for  purchase 
than  we  had  the  means  to  pay  for,  or  the  boat  could  carry ;  and  every 
one  seemed  desirous  of  securing  the  sale  of  his  fruits  and  vegetables. 
Notwithstanding  the  over-supply,  the  prices  were  I  thought  rather 
enhanced  than  lowered,  and  there  was  an  evident  feeling  among  the 
crowd  that  we  had  not  been  so  liberal  in  buying  as  we  ought  to  have 
been.  I  was  glad  to  get  off,  in  order  to  be  freed  from  the  flies,  which 
are  in  incredible  numbers  in  all  the  inhabited  islands,  and  a  great 
nuisance.  I  left  the  island  under  the  impression  this  little  commu¬ 
nity  was  a  happy  and  contented  one.  At  about  five  o’clock,  we  joined 
the  ship,  some  distance  to  the  southward  of  the  island,  and  all  the 
surveying  boats  having  returned,  we  bore  away  for  Tahiti,  at  which 
island  we  arrived  on  the  10th.  At  5  p.  m.,  Lieutenant-Commandant 
Ringgold  boarded  us,  and  brought  off  Jim,  the  pilot;  he  reported  all 
well  on  board  the  Porpoise.  At  sunset,  we  anchored  in  Matavai  Bay. 
I  hastened  to  ascertain  the  correctness  of  our  chronometers,  and  the 
next  day  landed  the  instruments  on  Point  Venus,  and  took  observa¬ 
tions.  They  gave  for  its  longitude  149°  31'  13-5"  W.  Krusenstern 
makes  it  149°  29'  17"  W. 

Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold,  in  the  Porpoise,  after  parting 
company  on  the  1st  of  September,  proceeded  to  the  south  side  of 
Raraka,  in  fulfilment  of  his  instructions.  He  found  the  whole 
southern  part  of  it  a  bare  reef,  with  the  surf  breaking  violently  over 
it.  When  off  the  south  point,  he  made  the  isle  of  Katiu  or  Sacken 
to  the  south,  and  that  of  Makima  to  the  east,  and  connected  them ; 
after  which  he  proceeded  to  the  westward,  passing  Aratica  (Carls- 
hoff),  and  thence  to  Nairsa  or  Dean’s  Island,  which  he  made  on  the 
5th ;  fixed  its  western  end,  passed  along  its  south  to  its  western  side, 
and  thence  to  Krusenstern’s  Island,  to  the  westward,  which  he 
circumnavigated ;  from  thence  direct  to  Tahiti,  anchored  in  Papieti 
Harbour  on  the  9th,  and  the  next  day  proceeded  to  Matavai  Bay,  the 
place  of  rendezvous. 

On  the  12th,  the  Peacock  arrived,  having  passed  to  the  Rurick 
Islands  or  Arutua,  the  north  end  of  which  lies  in  latitude  15°  15'  00" 
S.,  longitude  146°  51'  00"  W.  A  landing  was  attempted  at  several 
places  in  the  boats.  One  of  them  succeeded  near  a  cocoa-nut  grove, 


356 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


but  the  two  that  went  to  land  at  the  village,  found  thd  surf  too  high 
to  attempt  it. 

The  north  shore  of  Arutua  Island  was  surveyed,  when  they  bore 
away  and  connected  it  with  Nairsa  or  Dean’s  Island,  along  which 
they  ran  the  whole  length  of  its  south  side  by  daylight.  The  last 
named  island  is  for  the  most  part  a  washed  reef,  with  no  opening. 
The  compact  coral  blocks  showed  themselves  here  more  conspicu¬ 
ously,  and  in  greater  numbers  than  before  seen. 

The  following  sketch,  by  Mr.  Agate,  will  illustrate  their  appearance. 


After  making  the  west  end  of  Nairsa,  Captain  Hudson  sighted 
Krusenstern’s  Island,  and  then  stood  for  Metia  Island,  to  the  south¬ 
ward,  on  which  the  officers  landed  the  next  day.  Their  examination 
confirmed  the  facts  already  given,  relative  to  its  appearance;  they 
landed  on  the  west  side  of  the  island. 

Mr.  Dana  found  some  recent  shells  embedded  in  the  limestone,  but 
they  had  lost  their  texture. 

On  this  island,  the  magnetic  observations  were  made,  with  the 
Peacock’s  instruments.  Captain  Hudson  also  sounded  with  the  deep 
sea  thermometer,  when  within  a  mile  of  the  island,  in  six  hundred 
fathoms  ;  the  temperature  at  the  surface  of  the  water  was  80^-°,  that 
below,  44f°.  The  next  day  they  made  Tetuaroa,  to  the  northward 
of  Tahiti,  formerly  celebrated  as  the  resort  of  the  Tahitians,  for  the 
purpose  of  recovering  from  the  bodily  diseases  brought  on  by  their 
debaucheries,  &c.  It  is  a  low  island,  about  six  miles  long,  with  a 
few  trees  upon  it,  and  a  reef  off  its  southern  end,  extending  half  a 
mile.  It  is  plainly  to  be  seen  from  the  high  ridges  of  Tahiti. 

On  the  14th,  the  Flying-Fish  arrived.  She  had  visited  and  sur¬ 
veyed  King  George’s  Group,  which  appeared  well  inhabited,  and 
have  entrances  to  their  lagoons  on  the  west  side.  The  native  name 
of  the  two  islands,  is  Tiokea  and  Oura.  The  southwest  end  of  Tiokea 
is  in  latitude  14°  31'  12"  S.,  longitude  145°  09'  30"  W. ;  Oura 
bears  S.  68°  W.,  distant  four  and  a  half  miles.  Then  the  tender 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


357 


passed  to  Manhii  and  Ahii,  round  the  north  side  of  Nairsa,  or  Dean’s 
Island,  to  Tahiti. 

Little  appears  to  be  known  of  the  history  of  the  Paumotu  Islands, 
or  their  inhabitants.  At  Tahiti  I  obtained  some  information  from 
one  who  had  been  much  among  the  group,  and  believe  that  it  is  as 
authentic  as  can  be  obtained,  and  may  be  relied  on. 

The  Island  of  Anaa,  or  Chain  Island,  has  been  the  principal  seat 
of  power,  the  natives  of  which  having  frequently  waged  war  on  the 
others,  and  succeeded  in  conquering  all  to  the  west  of  Hau  or  Bow 
Island,  and  have  frequently  fought  with  it. 

In  the  reign  of  the  first  Poma.re,  under  Tomatiti,  they  even 
attempted  the  conquest  of  Tahiti,  and  succeeded  in  overcoming  the 
small  peninsula  of  Taiarabu.  The  story  is,  that  they  were  about  to 
continue  their  attack  on  the  larger  island,  when  Tomatiti  received  a 
written  letter  from  Pomare,  which  caused  hostilities  to  be  suspended  ; 
and  after  further  negotiation,  finally  led  to  Tomatiti’s  retiring  from 
the  island  with  a  large  present  of  hogs,  tapa,  &c.  Notwithstanding 
this,  the  Chain  Islanders  remained  nominally  under  the  government 
of  Tahiti,  and  now  acknowledge  their  dependence  on  it. 

Anaa,  or  Chain  Island,  is  one  of  the  smallest,  yet  it  is  the  most 
thickly  peopled  island  of  the  whole  group.  It  is  said  to  contain  five 
thousand  inhabitants,  which  large  number  is  accounted  for  by  the 
conquest  of  the  other  islands,  and  taking  their  inhabitants  off  as  cap¬ 
tives.  In  the  list  of  the  islands  and  their  population,  it  will  be  seen 
how  few  remain  on  the  other  islands  in  comparison  with  this  number. 
The  whole  island  is  one  cocoa-nut  grove,  and  the  principal  food  is 
fish  and  cocoa-nuts.  The  former  are  caught  in  large  quantities  in 
the  lagoon.  A  great  change  has  been  brought  about  in  the  disposi¬ 
tion  of  these  islanders  within  the  last  twenty-five  years,  during  which 
the  Tahitian  missionaries  have  been  established  at  Anaa.  Before 
this  period,  the  inhabitants  were  cannibals.  Since  the  residence  of 
the  missionaries,  they  have  imbibed  better  tastes ;  and  the  missionary 
influence  has  made  them  more  peaceful.  This  change  was  first 
evinced  by  the  treatment  of  their  captives,  whom  they  allowed  to 
return,  if  they  chose,  to  their  own  island  ;  but  very  many  of  them 
had  married  at  Anaa,  and  became  permanent  residents  there,  and  few 
have  taken  advantage  of  the  permission  to  return.  Notwithstanding 
the  numerous  population,  they  are  said  to  have  an  abundance  of  food. 
The  people  of  Anaa,  still  consider  the  inhabitants  of  the  eastern 
islands  as  cannibals ;  but  their  statement  in  this  respect  is  little  to  be 

90 


VOL.  I. 


358 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


depended  upon,  for  they  have  no  communication  whatever  with  those 
whom  they  class  under  this  denomination,  as  they  seldom  extend 
themselves  beyond  Hau  or  Bow  Island. 

The  Paumotuans  are  considered  more  warlike  than  the  Tahitians, 
for  which  reason  Pomare  I.  kept  a  body-guard  of  them  in  preference 
to  his  own  subjects.  They  have  the  reputation  of  being  an  honest 
and  trustworthy  race. 

These  islanders  are  certainly  not  all  from  the  same  stock,  and 
those  of  the  Disappointment  Group,  whom  we  were  much  struck 
with  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  in  particular  differ  from  the  others. 
Since  we  have  seen  all  the  different  Polynesian  groups,  these  appear, 
however  extraordinary  it  may  be,  to  resemble  the  Feejee  Islanders 
more  than  any  other. 

By  all  accounts,  they  speak  a  different  dialect  from  that  of  the 
Tahitian  nation.  The  difference  is,  however,  not  great,  for  I  was 
told  that  it  required  but  a  few  weeks  for  any  of  the  natives  to  acquire 
it.  Mr.  Hale  met  several  Paumotuans  at  Matavia  Bay,  and  among 
them  he  found  one  by  the  name  of  Tuoni,  who  confirmed  the 
accounts  I  have  detailed  above. 

The  population  of  this  group  I  have  nowhere  seen  given ;  I  have 
therefore  endeavoured  to  obtain  the  most  satisfactory  information  in 
relation  to  it :  the  whole  amounts,  in  round  numbers,  to  about  ten 
thousand,  as  follows,  viz. 


Anaa  ........  5,000 

Manhii  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .100 

Aratica  ........  60 

Nairsa  ........  70 

Metia  ........  350 

Rurick  ........  200 

King  George’s  .  .  .  .  .  .  .700 

Vincennes  .......  30 

Raraka  ........  40 

Wytoohee  .......  70 

Otooho  ........  40 

Bow  Island  .......  60 

Manga.  Reva,  or  Gambier  Island  .  .  .  2,000 

Serle  Island  .......  30 

Clermont  de  Tonnerre  .....  120 


8,870 


Rest  of  the  group,  1,130 

10,000 


PAUMOTU  GROUP. 


359 


On  the  map  of  this  group  it  will  be  seen  where  the  line  of  canni¬ 
balism  extends  to,  according  to  native  accounts.  Although  there  is 
little  doubt  that  the  natives  of  this  group  have  been  addicted  to  this 
horrible  barbarity,  yet  it  is  believed  that  it  is  not  now  practised. 

The  advancement  of  civilization  by  their  intercourse  with  the 
whites,  together  with  the  missionary  influence,  will  put  an  end  to 
this  practice,  and  promote  peace  among  all  the  islanders  of  the  group ; 
not  only  ameliorating  the  condition  of  the  natives,  but  protecting  the 
unfortunate  mariner  who  may  be  wrecked  within  this  dangerous 
archipelago. 

From  what  has  been  said  of  the  Paumotu  Group,  it  is  evident  it 
can  afford  but  few  advantages  for  commercial  enterprise ;  the  only 
article  which  of  late  years  has  been  sought  for  among  the  islands,  is 
the  pearl  oyster-shell,  of  which  considerable  quantities  have  been 
obtained.  The  return  will  be  noticed  under  the  commerce  of  Tahiti, 
of  which  it  forms  a  part.  The  vessels  engaged  in  the  fishery  belong 
to  foreigners,  who  reside  at  Tahiti.  The  mode  of  taking  the  oysters 
is  by  natives,  who  are  employed  as  divers,  for  a  very  small  compensa¬ 
tion.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted,  that  the  traders  should  have  recourse 
to  the  demoralizing  effects  of  spirits,  in  stimulating  their  exertions. 

The  natives  themselves  carry  on  a  small  trade  in  their  double 
canoes,  which  it  will  be  seen  by  the  wood-cut  below,  have  already 
undergone  some  modifications  from  that  already  given  on  a  previous 
page,  as  formerly  in  use.  These  are  principally  the  Chain  Islanders, 
who  supply  themselves  at  Tahiti  with  various  small  articles,  in  ex¬ 
change  for  their  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  dried  fish. 


TRADING  DOUBLE  CANOE. 


APPENDIX. 


CONTENTS 


I.  STATEMENT  IN  RELATION  TO  LIEUTENANT  HUDSON .  365 

II.  LETTER  FROM  THE  HON.  JOEL  R.  POINSETT .  365 

III.  LETTER  FROM  LIEUTENANT  HUDSON .  366 

IV.  NAVY  GENERAL  ORDER .  367 

V.  MEMORANDUM  FOR  THE  COMMANDER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION  TO  EXPLORE 

THE  SOUTH  SEAS .  368 

VI.  LETTERS  TO  THE  HON.  JAMES  K.  PAULDING,  AND  COMMODORE  L.  WARRING¬ 

TON .  374 

VII.  ORDERS  TO  THE  RELIEF .  375 

VIII.  GENERAL  ORDER,  NO.  1 .  376 

IX.  ORDERS  RESPECTING  THE  RECEIPT,  SAFE  KEEPING,  AND  EXPENDITURE  OF 

PROVISIONS,  STORES,  ETC .  377 

X.  GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  RELATIVE  TO  OBSERVATIONS .  378 

XI.  INSTRUCTIONS,  PORTION  OF,  PROMULGATED  TO  OFFICERS .  379 

XII.  GENERAL  ORDER  RELATIVE  TO  JOURNALS .  382 

XIII.  LETTER  TO  LIEUTENANT  CRAVEN  EXPLANATORY  OF  GENERAL  ORDER 

RELATIVE  TO  JOURNALS .  383 

XIV.  ORDER  TO  PURSERS,  AND  LETTER  TO  SECRETARY  OF  THE  NAVY  RELATIVE 

TO  MARINES’-  BOUNTY .  384 

XV.  LETTER  TO  THE  HON.  JAMES  K.  PAULDING,  AND  REPORT  FROM  LIEUTE¬ 

NANT  HUDSON  RELATIVE  TO  DEFECTS  OF  PEACOCK .  386 

XVI.  METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  UNDER  THE  EQUATOR .  389 

XVII.  METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  AT  RIO  JANEIRO .  392 

XVIII.  MEMORANDUM  OF  PASSAGES  FROM  THE  UNITED  STATES  TO  RIO  JANEIRO 

FOR  EIGHT  YEARS .  395 


364 


CONTENTS. 


XIX.  ORDERS  RELATIVE  TO  PERSONAL  APPEARANCE,  SCIENTIFIC  DUTIES, 

ETC . 396 

XX.  ORDERS  TO  CAPTAIN  HUDSON  FOR  SURVEY,  ETC .  400 

XXI.  POPULATION  OF  BRAZIL . 402 

XXII.  STATEMENT  OF  THE  EXPORTS  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  PRODUCTS  OF  BRAZIL 

DURING  THE  YEAR  1838  . . . . . .  407 

XXIII.  RESULT  OF  THE  MEASUREMENT  OF  A  BASE  LINE  BY  SOUND  BETWEEN 

CAPE  FRIO  LIGHT-HOUSE  AND  ENXADOS  ISLAND .  404 

XXIV.  SAILING  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  RELIEF,  PEACOCK,  PORPOISE,  ETC .  408 

XXV.  ORDERS  TO  CAPTAIN  HUDSON  FOR  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE .  411 

XXVI.  ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANT  R.  E.  JOHNSON  FOR  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE . 414 

XXVII.  ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANT  W.  M.  WALKER  FOR  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE.......  416 

XXVIII.  GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  BOAT  DUTY,  SURVEYING,  ETC .  418 

XXIX.  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  VINCENNES . 420 

XXX.  ORDERS  TO  LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT  LONG .  422 

XXXI.  CAPTAIN  HUDSON’S  AND  LIEUTENANT  WALKER’S  REPORTS . . .  424 

XXXII.  ORDER  TO  SEA-GULL .  434 

XXXIII.  GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  IN  RELATION  TO  THE  COLLECTION  AND  PRE¬ 
SERVATION  OF  SPECIMENS,  SHELLS,  ETC .  435 

XXXIV.  ORDER  TO  LIEUTENANT  CRAVEN  AND  PAPERS  RELATIVE  TO  HIM .  437 

XXXV.  GENERAL  ORDER  RELATIVE  TO  GOOD  CONDUCT  OF  CREW .  439 

XXXVI.  ORDER  TO  LIEUTENANT  PINKNEY .  440 

XXXVII.  GENERAL  ORDER  RELATIVE  TO  COURT  OF  INQUIRY .  440 

XXXVIII.  LETTER  FROM  OFFICERS  OF  THE  EXPEDITION,  AND  GENERAL  ORDER..  441 

XXXIX.  ORDERS  TO  SQUADRON .  443 

XL.  ORDERS  TO  RELIEF . 445 

XLI.  ORDERS  FOR  OBSERVATIONS,  MODE  OF  SURVEYING  CORAL  ISLANDS,  ETC.  447 

XLII.  LETTER  RELATIVE  TO  THE  WANT  OF  CONFORMITY  TO  ORDERS .  453 

XLIII.  ORDER  RELATIVE  TO  CORAL  SPECIMENS .  454 

XLIV  ORDERS  TO  PORPOISE . 454 

XLV.  ORDERS  TO  TENDER  FLYING-FISH .  455 


APPENDIX. 


i. 

STATEMENT  IN  RELATION  TO  LIEUTENANT  HUDSON’S  GOING  OUT  IN  THE 
EXPLORING  EXPEDITION,  UNDER  LIEUTENANT  WILKES. 

Lieutenant  Hudson  received  orders,  while  first  lieutenant  of  the 
navy-yard,  New  York,  to  proceed  to  Washington.  On  his  arrival, 
he  was  told  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  the  Hon.  Mahlon  Dicker- 
son,  that  he  had  been  sent  for  to  go  ont  in  the  Exploring  Expedition, 
and  was  directed  to  see  Mr.  Poinsett,  then  Secretary  of  War,  under 
whose  direction  these  arrangements  had  been  placed.  After  an 
interview  with  the  Secretary  of  War,  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy, 
and  the  President  of  the  United  States,  Lieutenant  Hudson  declined 
going  out  in  the  Expedition,  under  Lieutenant  Wilkes,  in  conse¬ 
quence  of  his  rank,  and  the  military  character  of  the  Expedition. 
Lieutenant  Hudson  left  Washington,  returned  to  New  York,  and 
resumed  his  duties  as  first  lieutenant  of  the  navy-yard,  under 
Commodore  Ridgely. 

After  a  short  period  the  following  communication  was  received 
from  the  Hon.  Joel  R.  Poinsett. 


II. 

[  Copy-  ] 

Washington,  June  5th,  1838. 

Lieutenant  Hudson,  U.  S.  Navy, 

Sir, — The  anxiety  I  feel,  in  common  with  the  whole  country,  for 
the  success  of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  and  the  high  estimate  I 

92 


VOL.  i. 


366 


APPENDIX. 


have  formed,  from  the  testimony  of  your  brother  officers,  of  your 
character  and  abilities,  render  me  exceedingly  desirous  of  securing 
your  services  as  its  second  officer.  Not  only  is  it  of  great  importance 
that  the  commander  should  have  as  his  second  in  command,  an  officer 
in  whose  zeal  and  efficient  co-operation  he  can  rely,  but  the  govern¬ 
ment  desires  the  choice  should  fall  on  one  possessing  the  necessary 
qualifications  in  case  of  an  accident  to  that  officer,  to  carry  out  the 
objects  of  the  Expedition,  and  to  conduct  it  in  safety  to  our  own 
shores.  With  these  views  and  wishes,  I  have  seen,  with  regret,  that 
a  mere  matter  of  etiquette  prevents  you  from  engaging  in  a  service 
for  which  you  are  so  well  fitted. 

Regarding  as  I  do,  the  practice  of  giving  officers  temporary 
appointments,  as  illegal,  and  prejudicial  to  the  service,  I  could  not 
recommend  to  the  President  to  sanction  its  continuance  for  three 
years  longer,  by  granting  such  appointments  to  the  officers  of  the 
Expedition. 

It  does  not,  however,  appear  to  me,  that  this  decision  ought  to 
present  an  obstacle  to  your  accepting  a  command  under  Lieutenant 
Wilkes,  whom  you  rank  by  what  must  be  considered  an  imaginary 
line. 

If  the  Expedition  were  of  a  military  character,  I  would  not  attempt 
to  combat  your  scruples ;  but  it  is  'purely  civil,  and  even  should  a  war 
break  out  between  the  United  States  and  any  naval  power,  your  path 
upon  the  ocean  would  be  peaceful. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  President,  as  well  as  my  own,  that  an 
Expedition,  undertaken  to  promote  science,  and  extend  the  bounds  of 
human  knowledge,  ought  to  command  the  services  of  all  who  can 
contribute  to  its  success,  in  whatever  station  it  may  be  thought  most 
advantageous  to  place  them ;  and  I  venture  to  hope,  that  waiving  all 
claim  to  superior  rank,  you  will  accept  the  command  now  tendered 
you. 

I  am,  Sir,  respectfully  yours, 

(Signed)  J.  R.  Poinsett. 


III. 

After  Captain  Hudson  was  assured  that  a  General  Order  would 
be  published,  divesting  the  Expedition  of  its  military  character,  and 
consulting  Commodore  Ridgely,  well  known  in  the  service  for  his 


APPENDIX. 


367 


high  sense  of  honour,  and  thorough  knowledge  on  all  points  of 
etiquette  and  duty,  and  for  whose  judgment  he  had  great  respect, 
whose  decided  opinion  and  advice  was,  that  it  was  his  duty,  as  an 
officer  of  the  government,  under  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  to 
accept  the  command  and  go  out  in  the  Expedition;  Captain  Hudson 
sent  the  following  acceptance. 


U.  S.  Navy-Yard, 

New  York,  June  16th,  1838. 

Sir, — The  peculiarly  delicate  situation  in  which  I  felt  myself 
placed  in  relation  to  Lieutenant  Wilkes,  must  be  my  excuse  for  the 
delay  which  has  occurred  in  replying  to  your  communication  of  the 
5th  instant,  proffering  to  me  the  situation  of  second  in  command  of 
the  Exploring  Expedition. 

The  coincidence  of  opinion  between  the  President  and  yourself  in 
relation  to  its  character,  in  a  military  point  of  view,  the  claims  of 
the  nation  upon  the  service  of  its  officers,  with  the  very  flattering 
suggestion  contained  in  your  letter,  have  outweighed  my  scruples. 
I,  therefore,  from  a  sense  of  duty,  accept  the  command,  and  tender 
my  best  services  to  promote  the  objects  of  the  Expedition,  and  advance 
the  honour  of  our  common  country. 

Very  respectfully,  yours, 

(Signed)  Wm.  L.  Hudson. 

To  the  Hon.  Joel  R.  Poinsett, 

Secretary  of  War. 


The  following  order  was  issued  : 

IV. 

NAVY  GENERAL  ORDER. 

The  armament  of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  being  adapted  merely 
for  its  necessary  defence  while  engaged  in  the  examination  and 
survey  of  the  Southern  Ocean,  against  any  attempts  to  disturb  its 
operations  by  the  savage  and  warlike  inhabitants  of  those  islands; 
and  the  objects  which  it  is  destined  to  promote  being  altogether  scien¬ 
tific  and  useful,  intended  for  the  benefit  equally  of  the  United  States, 
and  of  all  commercial  nations  of  the  world;  it  is  considered  to  he 
entirelij  divested  of  all  military  character ,  that  even  in  the  event  of  the 
country  being  involved  in  a  war,  before  the  return  of  the  squadron, 


3 


368  APPENDIX. 

its  path,  upon  the  ocean  will  be  peaceful,  and  its  pursuits  respected 
by  all  belligerents.  The  President  has,  therefore,  thought  proper,  in 
assigning  officers  to  the  command  of  this  squadron,  to  depart  from 
the  usual  custom  of  selecting  them  from  the  senior  ranks  of  the  navy, 
and  according  to  their  respective  grades  in  the  service;  and  has 
appointed  Lieutenant  Charles  Wilkes,  first  officer,  to  command  the 
Exploring  Expedition,  and  Lieutenant  Wm.  L.  Hudson  to  command 
the  ship  Peacock,  and  to  he  second  officer  of  said  squadron,  and  take 
command  thereof,  in  the  event  of  the  death  of  the  first  officer,  or  his 
disability,  from  accident  or  sickness,  to  conduct  the  operations  of  the 
Expedition. 

(Signed)  Mahlon  Dickerson, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy. 

Navy  Department,  June  22d,  1838. 

y. 

MEMORANDUM  for  the  commander  of  the  expedition  to  explore 

THE  SOUTH  SEAS. 

Note. — The  asterisk  before  the  number  of  some  of  these  articles,  denotes  that 
the  islands,  &c.,  have  been  examined  by  the  Expedition. 

I.  I  have  pointed  out,  in  the  supplementary  volume  of  my  Hydro- 
graphical  Memoirs,  (pages  19,  96,  and  113,)  several  islands,  the 
existence  of  which  does  not  appear  to  be  subject  to  any  doubt,  but  of 
which  the  position  is  not  determined  with  the  best  precision.  It  is 
much  to  be  wished  that  all  such  islands  were  to  be  visited,  and  their 
position  verified.  With  respect  to  the  islands  of  rather  doubtful 
existence,  the  names  of  which  I  have  given,  (pages  156-165,  supple¬ 
ment,)  there  is  certainly  no  other  method  of  ascertaining  their  ex¬ 
istence  than  to  search  for  them,  and  to  determine,  with  the  greatest 
precision,  the  latitudes  and  longitudes  of  such  as  are  found.  A  great 
number  of  these  imaginary  islands  will  then,  of  course,  vanish  from 
the  charts. 

II.  Captain  Bligh  discovered,  in  the  year  1789,  to  the  nortlrward  of 
the  New  Hebrides,  a  group  of  islands,  which  he  named  Banks'1 II.  s 
Islands ;  and  Captain  Wilson,  another  cluster  of  islands,  to  the 
northward  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Islands,  named  by  him  Duff’s  Group. 
Neither  these  nor  the  Banks’s  Islands  having  been  since  seen,  it 
would  be  well  to  make  a  new  survey  of  them. 


APPENDIX. 


369 


III.  Islands  of  Santa  Cruz. — In  my  Memoir,  belonging  to  the 
chart  of  these  islands,  I  have  discussed  the  situation  of  Carteret’s 
Swallow  Island ,  and  expressed  my  belief  that  the  islands  seen  by 
Captain  Wilson  in  1797  are  the  same  as  Swallow  Island.  Captain 
Freycinet  is  of  the  same  opinion,  and,  by  a  new  survey  of  Wilson’s 
Island,  confirmed  this  hypothesis.  There  remains,  then,  no  doubt 
that  Byron’s  Swallow  Island  does  not  exist ;  but,  as  it  still  continues 
to  be  delineated  on  some  of  the  latest  charts,  it  would  be  well  that  its 
non-existence  should  be  equally  proved  by  the  American  Expedition. 

IV.  The  Solomon  Islands. — These  islands  have  partly  been  visited 
by  D’Urville  and  Shortland,  partly  by  D’Entrecasteaux;  and  several 
English  ships  have  at  different  times  sailed  through  them ;  but  a 
complete  survey  of  all  the  islands  composing  this  great  archipelago  is 
still  wanting.  It  is  indeed  very  singular  that,  of  all  the  navigators 
who  have  lately  visited  the  Pacific  Ocean,  none  have  ever  attempted 
any  thing  like  a  systematic  survey  of  these  islands,  with  the 
exception  of  D’Entrecasteaux,  who,  at  least,  sailed  along  the  southern 
islands  from  east  to  west,  and  thus  greatly  improved  the  hydrography 
of  them.  I  have  published,  in  the  year  1827,  a  chart  of  these 
islands:  (Carte  Systematique  de  l’Archipel  des  Isles  Salomon.) 
Having  collected  all  the  materials  that  were  to  be  had  at  that  time, 
many  of  them  in  apparent  contradiction  to  each  other,  I  endeavoured 
to  reconcile  them,  and  to  delineate  the  lands  belonging  to  this  archi¬ 
pelago,  to  the  best  of  my  judgment.  (An  account  of  my  proceedings 
will  be  found  in  the  Memoir  accompanying  my  chart.)  By  the  first 
survey  of  these  islands,  it  will  be  seen  wdiether  some  of  my  combina¬ 
tions  have  been  well  founded  or  not.  The  Solomon  Islands  being 
the  greatest  archipelago  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  the  least  known, 
deserve,  no  doubt,  to  be  as  completely  surveyed  as  the  Society, 
Friendly,  or  other  groups.  Although  ten  years  have  elapsed  since 
my  chart  was  published,  nothing  has  been  done  since  that  time  for 
the  hydrography  of  these  islands,  to  enable  me  to  improve  the  second 
edition  of  that  chart,  (1836,)  except  in  the  situation  of  a  group  of 
islands,  discovered  lately,  to  the  northward  of  the  Solomon  Islands. 

Y.  New  Caledonia. — A  dangerous  reef  has  lately  been  discovered 
by  the  ship  Petrie,  to  the  northward  of  New  Caledonia;  the  precise 
position  of  this  danger  ought  to  be  determined. 

YI.  Loyalty  Islands. — Captain  D’Urville  has  been  the  first  to  survey 
the  Loyalty  Islands ;  but  having  sailed  only  along  the  northern  side  of 
them,  it  is  to  be  wished  that  the  southern  shore  might  also  be  surveyed. 

93 


VOL.  I. 


370 


APPENDIX. 


*VII.  The  Feejee  Islands. — Captain  D’Urville  lias  done  a  great  deal 
to  give  ns  a  more  correct  chart  of  these  islands,  having  surveyed  a 
great  part  of  them ;  but  still  he  has  left  unexplored  many  islands 
belonging  to  this  archipelago.  In  my  supplementary  memoir  to  the 
chart  of  these  islands,  I  have  endeavoured  to  combine  Captain  D’Ur¬ 
ville’s  survey  with  such  surveys  as  had  been  made  previous  to  his 
voyage;  and  have  constructed,  according  to  all  the  data  that  have 
come  to  my  knowledge,  a  new  chart  of  the  Feejee  islands  (named  by 
Captain  D’Urville,  Yiti  Islands.)  Of  course  the  chart  cannot  be  very 
correct,  but  it  may  perhaps  serve  till  a  new  complete  survey  is  made 
of  them.  *  . 

VIII.  New  Ireland. — It  is  astonishing  that  nearly  two  centuries 
have  elapsed  without  the  islands  situated  to  the  north  of  New  Ireland 
— first  seen  by  Tasman,  and  since  by  Dampier  and  Bougainville — 
having  been  examined,  so  that  we  know  as  little  of  them  as  was 
known  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  There  remains,  then,  to  be 
made  a  complete  survey  of  all  these  islands.  As  to  the  islands  near 
them,  seen  by  Maurell,  it  is  not  likely  that  they  are  the  same,  as  some 
have  supposed.  This  is  another  reason  why  they  should  be  all 
explored  with  the  greatest  precision. 

IX.  Admiralty  Islands. — It  is  much  to  be  wished  that  the  islands 
seen  by  Maurell,  to  the  eastward  of  the  Great  Admiralty  Island, 
should  be  explored,  since  we  know  that  Maurell’s  account  of  his 
discoveries  does  not  satisfy  the  hydrographer. 

X.  New  Britain. — Admiral  D’Entrecasteaux  has  seen  and  deter¬ 
mined,  with  his  usual  exactness,  the  islands  situated  along  the  north 
coast  of  New  Britain;  but  he  has  not  been  able  to  lay  down  the  coast 
itself,  which  he  has  seen  only  at  a  distance,  and  some  parts  not  at  all. 

*XI.  Low  Islands. — Captain  Hagemuster,  of  the  Russian  navy, 
discovered,  in  the  year  1830,  an  island  to  the  westward  of  King 
George’s  Islands.  This  island  cannot  be  any  other  than  Schouten’s 
Waterlandt.  Captain  Wilson  sailed  between  two  islands,  which  he 
took  to  be  King  George’s  Islands.  Most  navigators  have  been  of  the 
same  opinion;  although  there  is  a  difference  of  longitude  of  more 
than  a  degree  between  the  islands  seen  by  Wilson  and  King  George’s 
Islands.  Captain  Duperrey,  (an  excellent  authority  as  every  hydro¬ 
grapher  will  readily  admit,)  is  of  a  different  opinion;  he  maintains 
that  the  two  islands  between  which  Wilson  sailed  are  not  King 
George’s  Islands,  but  are  situated  to  the  westward  of  them.  He 
thinks  that  the  island  seen  by  Captain  Hagemuster,  which  I  take 


APPENDIX. 


371 


to  be  W aterlandt,  is  one  of  the  two  islands ;  and  that  Captain  Hage- 
muster  has  not  seen  the  other.  In  order  to  refute  Captain  Duperrey’s 
hypothesis,  the  second  island,  which,  according  to  him,  Captain 
Hagemuster  might  not  have  perceived,  ought  to  be  searched  for,  to 
the  westward  of  Captain  Hagemuster’ s  island ;  if  it  really  does  exist, 
it  cannot  be  at  a  greater  distance  than  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miles. 

*XII.  Commodore  Byron’s  Isles  of  Disappointment  have  not  been 
visited  since  their  first  discovery  in  1765.  I  have  endeavoured  to 
settle  their  longitude  at  140°  42'  W.  (page  87  of  my  supplement;) 
but  this  being  only  an  approximation,  they  ought  to  be  surveyed — at 
least  visited  anew. 

*XIII.  By  my  Memoirs,  page  281,  and  supplement,  page  90,  you 
will  perceive  that  there  is  a  difference  of  27'  between  Captain  Bel- 
linghausen’s  and  Captain  Kotzebue’s  longitude  of  the  west  point  of 
Prince  of  Wales’s  Island *  and  the  island  situated  to  the  westward  of 
it.f  What  may  be  the  cause  of  this  difference?  since  the  two 
navigators  do  not  differ,  either  before  or  after,  more  than  three 
minutes.  Either  the  length  of  Vlighen  Island  has  been  overrated  by 
Captain  Kotzebue,  or  some  other  error  has  crept  into  the  longitude 
of  either  the  one  or  the  other.  As  both  are  excellent  observers,  it 
would  be  very  desirable  to  settle  this  point,  by  examining  and  sur¬ 
veying  carefully  all  the  islands  lying  to  the  westward  and  eastward 
of  Vlighen  Island,  and  determine  with  the  greatest  precision  the 
width  of  the  channels  separating  the  different  islands,  as  well  as  the 
exact  length  of  Vlighen  or  Prince  of  Wales’s  Island  :  the  error  will, 
most  likely,  be  detected  in  the  length  of  that  isle. 

*XIV.  There  is  a  difference  of  17'  in  the  longitude  of  the  isle 
Clermont  de  Tonnerre  between  Captain  Duperrey  and  Captain 
Beechey.  At  Serle  Island,  close  to  it,  there  is  hardly  any  difference 
at  all.  The  same  difference  of  17'  exists  in  the  longitude  of  Prince 
William  Henry,  which  Captain  Beechey  has  proved  to  be  the  same 
with  Captain  Duperrey’s  isle  Porting o  ;  whereas  at  Mollu  Island,  both 
Captains  Beechey  and  Duperrey  agree  perfectly  well.  It  would  be 
worth  while  to  search  for  the  cause  of  such  anomalies. 

*XV.  Captain  Beechey  is  of  opinion  that  Captain  Duperrey’s  isle 
Clermont  de  Tonnerre  is  one  and  the  same  with  the  island  Minerva. 
Captain  Duperrey,  on  the  contrary,  maintains  that  the  island  Minerva 


#  On  some  charts  this  island  is  named  Dean’s  Isle ;  on  my  charts,  Vlighen  Isle, 
f  By  Captain  Porter  called  Gamble ;  by  Captain  Kotzebue,  Krusuntze  Island. 


372 


APPENDIX. 


is  the  same  as  Serle  Island.  I  am  of  this  latter  opinion ;  although 
the  solution  of  this  problem  will  much  depend  upon  the  distance  of 
the  island  Clermont  de  Tonnerre  from  Serle  Island,  which  is  much 
less  on  Duperrey’s  chart  than  on  Captain  Beechey’s. 

*XVI.  There  has  been  lately  discovered  an  island  of  considerable 
extent,  of  the  name  of  Raraka.  It  would  be  well  to  examine  it, 
since  the  account  given  of  it  is  not  quite  satisfactory.  It  is  stated  to 
be  situated  in  16°  3'  S.,  and  145°  O'  W. 

*XVII.  I  have  placed  on  my  chart  of  the  Low  Islands,  several 
islands,  the  position  of  which  is  rather  doubtful ;  for  instance,  the 
j Hunger's  Group  of  Turnbull,  the  island  of  Britomart,  the  islands 
discovered  by  Quiros,  and  several  others.  In  order  to  have  any 
certainty  about  their  existence  and  precise  position,  it  is  necessary 
to  search  for  and  make  a  survey  of  them. 

*XVIII.  The  Islands  of  San  Bernardo  and  the  Island  of  Banger. 
— Mendane  discovered  a  group  of  islands,  named  by  him  San  Ber¬ 
nardo.  These  islands  have  been  seen  by  Captains  Freycinet  and 
Bellinghausen.  Not  far  from  them  Byron  discovered  a  small  group, 
which  he  named  Islands  of  Danger.  Notwithstanding  a  difference 
of  latitude  of  half  a  degree,  the  two  groups  have  been  considered  as 
one  and  the  same.  It  has  not  been  thought  impossible  that  in 
Byron’s  latitudes  there  might  have  been  a  typographical  error : 
besides,  none,  of  all  the  navigators  who  have  passed  here,  have  ever 
found  a  second  group,  which  they  could  not  have  missed  if  it  really 
existed.  Captain  Duperrey,  however,  who  is,  as  I  have  said  above,  a 
high  authority  in  whatever  relates  to  the  hydrography  of  the  South 
Seas,  is  of  a  different  opinion :  he  maintains  that  Byron’s  Islands  of 
Danger  do  exist.  In  order  to  settle  that  question,  it  is  necessary  to 
search  under  the  meridian  of  the  islands  San  Bernardo,  as  deter¬ 
mined  by  Captain  Bellinghausen,  for  these  Islands  of  Danger  in  the 
latitude  assigned  to  them  by  Byron,  as  well  as  for  the  chain  of  rocks 
of  which  he  speaks,  and  which  are  situated,  according  to  him,  to  the 
eastward.  This  has  not  been  done  yet,  and  it  would  be  very  desirable 
if  it  was  done,  in  order  not  to  leave  the  least  doubt  on  the  subject. 

*XIX.  Marianne  Islands. — On  Captain  Freycinet’s  chart  there  is 
to  be  seen,  to  the  southwest  of  the  Island  of  Assumption,  rocks,  by  the 
name  of  Mary’s.  Rocks  of  the  same  name  have  been  seen  by  La 
Perouse,  to  the  northward  of  Assumption  Island.  In  case  the  Ex¬ 
pedition  should  extend  its  exploratory  researches  to  the  northern 
hemisphere,  this  doubtful  point  should  be  settled. 


APPENDIX. 


373 


XX.  Caroline  Islands. — These  islands  have  been  so  well  surveyed 
by  Captain  Duperrey  and  Captain  Lutke,  that  there  is  very  little  now 
left  to  be  done  concerning  them.  I  shall,  however,  point  out  here 
some  islands  that  require  to  be  determined  with  great  precision  :  1. 
The  island  named  by  Captain  Morell,  Fasolis,  is  most  likely  the  same 
with  Captain  Lutke’ s,  Farroilep;  but  a  difference  of  21'  in  latitude, 
makes  this  doubtful.  2.  Island  Lydia ,  on  Captain  Duperrey’s  chart. 
We  do  not  know  by  whom  it  has  been  discovered,  nor  who  has 
determined  its  situation.  3.  I  have  endeavoured  to  prove,  in  my 
Supplementary  Memoir  of  the  Caroline  Islands,  that  the  islands  Bor- 
delaire,  Fame,  Campbell,  and  the  island  St.  Augustine,  are  one  and 
the  same.  This  hypothesis  requires  to  be  verified.  4.  The  Monte- 
verde  Islands  ought  to  be  surveyed ;  what  Captains  Monteverde  and 
Morell,  the  only  navigators  who  have  seen  them,  have  said  of  them, 
is  not  sufficiently  satisfactory.  5.  We  see  on  Captain  Duperrey’s 
chart  of  the  Caroline  Islands,  several  islands,  of  which  we  know 
nothing  more  than  the  name,  viz. :  Bumkay’s,  Quekin’s,  &c.,  and 
their  existence  and  position  remain  to  be  ascertained.  6.  The  island 
of  Arrecifos  has,  so  far  as  my  knowledge  extends,  been  seen  only  by 
the  ship  Providence,  in  the  year  1811.  Not  knowing  much  respect¬ 
ing  it,  it  is  to  be  wished  that  it  should  be  surveyed. 

XXI.  The  Island  of  Gilbot. — At  the  end  of  my  supplementary 
volume,  I  have  pointed  out  what  remains  to  be  done  in  order  to  have 
a  perfect  knowledge  of  all  the  islands  belonging  to  this  archipelago. 

Remark. — Independent  of  the  American  Exploratory  Expedition, 
there  are  to  be  at  the  same  time  three  others  in  the  South  Seas :  two 
English  and  one  French  expedition.  Many  of  the  islands  will  of 
course  be  visited  by  all  the  expeditions ;  and  it  is  to  be  apprehended 
that  their  longitudes,  determined  by  the  different  astronomers  of  the 
expeditions,  will,  perhaps,  not  agree  so  well  as  might  be  wished. 
This  difficulty  will  of  course  be  obviated,  by  referring  their  astrono¬ 
mical  observations  to  the  longitudes  of  such  places  as  are  determined 
by  absolute  astronomical  observations  with  the  greatest  precision, 
and  those  most  likely  to  be  visited  by  the  ships  of  the  expeditions. 
The  positions  we  have  in  the  South  Seas,  are  Point  Venus ,  in  lon¬ 
gitude  149°  29'  17"  W.,  determined  by  the  passage  of  Venus  over 
the  disk  of  the  sun ;  Port  Honolula,  in  the  island  of  Oaho,  by 
occupation  of  several  stars,  in  202°  10'  E. ;  and  Port  Jackson ,  Sydney 
Cove ,  in  151°  17'  E.,  by  an  eclipse  of  the  sun.  In  the  northern  part 
of  the  Pacific,  East  Cape,  190°  16'  10"  E.,  may  be  adopted  as  a  well- 

94 


VOL.  I. 


374 


APPENDIX. 


fixed  point,  although  not  determined  by  absolute  astronomical  obser¬ 
vations.  With  respect  to  the  coast  of  South  America,  Talcahuana , 
the  longitude  of  which  was  determined  by  Captain  Beechey,  to  be 
in  72°  56'  59"  W.,  seems  to  me  a  well-determined  point.  Captain 
Duperrey  is  not  of  that  opinion ;  and  it  remains  to  be  settled  whether 
the  longitude  of  Talcahuana,  or  Valparaiso,  in  71°  33'  34"  W., 
deserves  the  preference. 

Krusenstern. 

St.  Petersburg,  January  26,  1837. 


VI. 


United  States’  Ship  Vincennes, 

Hampton  Roads,  August  14th,  1838. 

Sir, 

I  have  the  honour  to  state,  that  since  my  arrival  here,  I  have 
examined  the  General  Requisition,  complained  of  by  Commodore 
Warrington  and  the  Commissioners  of  the  Navy,  and  find  (as  I  was 
well  aware  was  the  case)  it  duly  approved  by  me. 

The  articles  that  were  stricken  off  the  Requisition,  were  the  most 
necessary  for  us  of  any  thing  contained  therein ;  and  I  regret  to  say, 
that  in  consequence  of  the  objections  to  allow  indispensable  articles 
for  the  service  we  are  going  on,  we  shall  be  obliged  to  go  to  sea  much 
less  efficient  than  we  would,  had  they  been  furnished,  and  which  will 
compel  me  to  subject  the  government  to  pay  quadruple  prices  for  the 
same  articles  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

I  have  to  request,  that  you  will  show  this  letter  to  the  Honourable 
Commissioners  of  the  Navy,  in  order  to  notify  them  that  the  Requi¬ 
sition  was  not  irregularly  drawn,  but  duly  approved  by  myself,  and 
consequently  assumed  as  my  act. 

I  have  the  honour,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Hon.  Jas.  K.  Paulding, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy ,  Washington. 


APPENDIX. 


375 


United  States’  Ship  Vincennes, 

Hampton  Roads,  August  18th,  1838. 

Sir, 

I  have  this  morning  ascertained  that  only  one  set  of  pump-gear  is 
on  board  this  vessel,  and  one  on  board  the  Peacock,  which  are  now 
in  use. 

The  pumps  of  the  Vincennes  are  6|  inches. 

2  “  Peacock  “  6  “ 

2  “  “  “  61  “ 

We  are  now  otherwise  ready  for  sea,  but  cannot  sail  without  these, 
as  they  cannot  be  obtained  elsewhere ;  also  two  hedges  are  required, 
and  a  hose  for  the  pumps,  and  pipe  for  the  hose  of  the  forcing-pump, 
and  an  iron  brake  for  the  Vincennes. 

I  have  to  request  the  favour  of  you  to  direct  that  three  complete 
sets  of  pump-boxes,  &c.,  for  each  vessel,  may  be  furnished  to-day. 

All  these  articles  have  been  repeatedly  called  for  by  the  officers 
from  this  ship,  but  without  success. 

I  am,  most  respectfully,  Sir, 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Commodore  L.  Warrington, 

Navy  Yard,  Gosport,  Va. 

VII. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  22d,  1838. 

Sir, 

You  will  proceed  with  all  practicable  despatch  to  Port  Praya,  in 
the  island  of  St.  Jago,  where  you  will  remain  five  days,  and  then 
proceed  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  where  you  will  await  further  orders. 

During  your  stay  at  Port  Praya,  you  will  fill  up  with  water,  and 
supply  your  crew  fully  with  fresh  provisions  and  vegetables. 

You  will  leave  a  communication  with  the  consul  of  that  port  on 
your  departure,  addressed  to  me,  in  case  you  should  not  hear  from 
me  before  that  period. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

To  Lieut.  Com.  A.  K,  Long, 

U.  S.  Ship  Relief. 


376 


APPENDIX. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  22d,  1838. 

Sir, 

Should  you  arrive  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  before  this  ship,  you  will 
inform  the  navy  agent  there,  that  about  twenty-five  thousand  pounds 
of  bread  will  be  required  at  that  port  for  the  Exploring  Expedition, 
on  our  arrival  there,  and  request  him  to  have  the  same  prepared  of 
the  first  quality,  that  there  may  be  no  detention. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

A.  K.  Long, 

Lieutenant-  Commandant  Relief. 


VIII. 

GENERAL  ORDER.  NO.  I. 

The  squadron  being  now  ready  for  sea,  the  undersigned,  Com¬ 
mander  of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  takes  this  opportunity  to  return 
his  warmest  thanks  to  the  officers,  scientific  gentlemen,  seamen,  and 
marines,  for  the  indefatigable  exertions  they  have  made  in  equipping 
the  vessels  in  their  several  departments ;  being  well  aware  that 
had  it  not  been  for  the  individual  and  united  exertions  of  all,  the 
preparations  could  not  have  been  accomplished  in  the  short  space  of 
time  they  have  been;  and  he  feels  confident  that  the  same  hearty 
zeal  and  co-operation  will  carry  us  successfully  through  the  arduous 
service  in  which  we  have  embarked. 

To  all  the  officers  of  the  Expedition  the  undersigned  would  re¬ 
mark,  that  every  feeling  which  a  devotion  to  such  a  cause  can 
inspire,  is  felt  by  him ;  and  that  every  thing  will  be  looked  to,  which 
can  tend  to  insure  success  in  this  undertaking,  may  be  confidently 
relied  on. 

Harmony  and  good  feeling  he  would  enjoin  upon  all ;  the  necessity 
of  cultivating  this,  and  the  united  exertions  of  all,  cannot  claim  too 
much  of  your  attention.  Continue  as  you  have  commenced,  and  rest 
assured  that  we  shall  be  successful  in  meeting  the  expectations  of 
our  country. 

You  may  rest  assured  also  of  receiving  impartial  justice  from 


APPENDIX. 


377 


me,  and  that  in  the  assignment  of  dnties  and  promotions,  if  any 
should  occur ;  and  that  all  will  have  the  opportunities  they  desire  of 
entering  upon  the  scientific  duties,  nothing  shall  be  wanting  that  can 
tend  to  this  end. 

To  the  scientific  gentlemen,  I  have  only  to  say,  that  they  are,  and 
always  will  be  considered  as  one  of  us,  and  that  every  opportunity 
will  be  given  them  that  can  be  imagined  by  the  undersigned,  or  sug¬ 
gested  by  them,  to  promote  the  success  of  the  Expedition,  in  their 
particular  departments.  My  conduct  towards  them  will  be  the  same 
as  towards  the  officers  with  whom  they  are  associated. 

Those  composing  the  crews  of  the  several  vessels  of  the  squadron, 
may  be  assured  that  every  thing  will  be  done  to  promote  their  com¬ 
fort,  and  every  indulgence  granted  them  compatible  with  the  interests 
of  the  service ;  and  it  is  confidently  expected  that  they  will  strictly 
conform  to  the  rules  and  regulations  of  the  navy,  and  of  the  squadron ; 
and  that  the  same  respect  for  their  officers,  good  conduct,  and  good 
feeling  for  each  other,  will  exist  at  all  times. 

(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes. 


IX. 

ORDERS  RESPECTING  THE  RECEIPT,  SAFE-KEEPING,  AND  EXPENDITURE 

OF  PROVISIONS,  STORES,  ETC. 

A  return  of  all  stores  and  provisions  will  be  made  before  sailing, 
and  thereafter,  on  the  1st  of  each  month,  of  all  stores  and  provisions 
on  hand  and  expended. 

The  Relief  having  a  large  proportion  of  stores  on  hand,  no  expen¬ 
diture  of  stores  will  take  place,  unless  by  a  requisition  approved 
by  me. 

Great  care  and  economy  of  stores  is  enjoined  upon  the  commanders 
in  regard  to  the  expenditures  of  provisions  and  stores ;  and  much  is 
expected,  in  regard  to  their  preservation  and  expenditure,  from  the 
well-known  prudence  and  attention  of  the  officer  commanding  the 
Relief. 

The  attention  of  the  commanders  of  the  respective  vessels  is 

95 


VOL.  I. 


378 


APPENDIX. 


particularly  called  to  the  expenditure  of  wood,  and  every  precaution 
is  enjoined  for  its  economical  consumption. 

The  monthly  returns  will  not  only  embrace  the  actual  condition  of 
the  provisions  and  stores,  but  the  quantity  of  wood,  water,  &c.,  on 
hand,  and  expended. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Hampton  Roads,  August  14th,  1838. 


X. 

GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  RELATIVE  TO  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  surgeon  and  his  assistants  will  take  the  meteorological  obser¬ 
vations  at  3  p.  m.,  9  p.  m.,  3  a.  m.,  and  9  a.  m.  ;  viz.,  the  standing  of 
barometer,  thermometer,  and  hygrometer. 

The  temperature  at  the  masthead,  and  that  of  the  water,  wind, 
weather,  and  the  force  of  the  wind,  the  quantity  of  rain,  &c. ;  the 
officers  of  the  watch  will  note,  and  make  any  remarks  of  their  own, 
regarding  facts  that  may  have  occurred,  (during  their  watch,)  in  the 
meteorological  journal :  all  astronomical  and  atmospherical  pheno¬ 
mena,  it  is  desired  may  claim  attention,  and  be  noted  under  their 
respective  heads.  Astronomical  phenomena,  such  as  shooting  stars, 
zodiacal  lights,  aurora  borealis,  the  height  of  their  arcs,  their  colours, 
&c.,  measured,  and  the  direction  they  take  in  the  heavens.  Atmo¬ 
spherical  phenomena,  such  as  rainbows,  halos,  water-spouts,  lightning, 
appearance  of  the  clouds,  rain,  the  Magellanic  clouds,  to  be  noted 
when  first  observed ;  in  short,  any  unusual  appearance  connected 
with  the  weather. 

Of  the  sea,  all  phosphorescent  lights,  fishes,  and  all  substances 
adhering  to  weeds,  must  not  fail  to  claim  attention,  and  specimens  of 
them  obtained.  Fish  caught  must  be  preserved  till  opened  in  the 
presence  of  an  officer,  and  their  stomachs  carefully  examined,  and  if 
any  thing  is  found,  it  must  be  taken  care  of. 

Things  and  animals  that  might  in  ordinary  cases  be  deemed 
troublesome  and  useless,  are  not  to  be  lost  sight  of,  but  are  to  be 
picked  up  for  examination. 


APPENDIX. 


379 


Every  opportunity  of  trying  tlie  current  must  be  taken  advantage 
of,  and  marked. 

Astronomical  observations,  viz.,  lunar  distances  of  the  stars,  east 
and  west  of  the  moon,  of  the  sun,  and  of  the  planets,  to  be  frequently 
taken. 

Observations  for  chronometers  must  be  taken  daily,  mornings  and 
afternoons,  when  the  weather  will  permit ;  azimuths  and  amplitudes, 
at  least  once  or  twice  a  day,  in  the  morning,  or  in  the  afternoon,  and 
the  ship’s  head  noted  at  the  same  time. 

Any  of  the  officers  (among  whom  are  considered  the  scientific 
gentlemen)  will  on  all  occasions  promote  the  objects  of  the  Expedition 
by  procuring  any  article  referred  to  in  the  foregoing  instructions,  or 
aiding  in  carrying  into  effect  the  same.  And  the  officer  of  the  deck 
is  authorized  to  stop  the  ship’s  way,  and  perform  any  evolution  with 
a  view  of  carrying  into  effect  the  above,  in  which  case  he  will  report 
the  same  immediately  to  me,  if  time  does  not  permit  his  doing  so 
previously. 

It  is  necessary  for  the  sea-officers  to  make  themselves  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  heavenly  constellations,  in  order  to  be  efficient  in 
noting  the  course  of  meteors,  &e. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

United  States’  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  25th,  1838. 


XI. 

United  States’  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  25th,  1838. 

The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  in  com¬ 
municating  the  following  instructions,  from  the  Navy  Department, 
for  the  government  and  information  of  those  under  his  command, 
directs  the  particular  attention  of  all  persons  in  the  Expedition  to  the 
same,  and  especially  to  that  part  of  them,  which  prohibits  any  one 
furnishing  to  persons  not  attached  to  the  Exploring  Expedition,  any 
communications  which  have  reference  to  the  objects  or  proceedings 
of  the  Expedition. 

“  Although  the  primary  object  of  the  Expedition,  is  the  promotion 
of  the  great  interests  of  commerce  and  navigation,  yet  you  will  take 
all  occasions,  not  incompatible  with  the  great  purpose  of  your  under¬ 
taking,  to  extend  the  bounds  of  science,  and  promote  the  acquisition 


380 


APPENDIX. 


of  knowledge.  For  the  more  successful  attainment  of  this,  a  corps  of 
scientific  gentlemen,  consisting  of  the  following  persons,  will  accom¬ 
pany  the  Expedition,  and  are  placed  under  your  direction. 

Mr.  Hale,  Philologist, 

Mr.  Pickering,  l 

Mr.  Peale,  l  Naturalists. 

Mr.  Couthouy,  Conchologist, 

Mr.  Rich,  Botanist. 

Mr.  Dana,  Mineralogist. 

Mr.  Drayton,  i 

Mr.  Ag  ate,  $  Draughtsmen. 

Mr.  Brackenridge,  Horticulturist. 

“  The  hydrography  and  geography  of  the  various  seas  and  coun¬ 
tries  you  may  visit  in  the  route  pointed  out  to  you  in  the  preceding 
instructions,  will  occupy  your  special  attention ;  and  all  the  researches 
connected  with  them,  as  well  as  with  astronomy,  terrestrial  magnet¬ 
ism,  and  meteorology,  are  confined  exclusively  to  the  officers  of  the 
Navy,  on  whose  zeal  and  talents  the  Department  confidently  relies 
for  such  results  as  will  enable  future  navigators  to  pass  over  the  track 
traversed  by  your  vessels,  without  fear  and  without  danger. 

“  No  special  directions  are  thought  necessary,  as  to  the  mode  of 
conducting  the  scientific  researches  and  experiments  which  you  are 
enjoined  to  prosecute,  nor  is  it  intended  to  limit  the  members  of  the 
corps  each  to  his  own  particular  service. 

“  All  are  expected  to  co-operate  harmoniously  in  those  kindred  pur¬ 
suits,  whose  equal  dignity  and  usefulness  should  insure  equal  ardour 
and  industry  in  extending  their  bounds  and  verifying  their  principles. 

“  As  guides  to  yourself  and  to  the  scientific  corps,  the  Department 
would,  however,  direct  your  particular  attention  to  the  learned  and 
comprehensive  Report  of  a  committee  of  the  American  Philosophical 
Society  of  Philadelphia,  the  Report  of  a  Committee  of  the  East  India 
Marine  Society,  of  Salem,  Massachusetts ;  and  to  a  communica¬ 
tion  from  the  Naval  Lyceum  of  New  York,  which  accompany,  and 
are  to  be  regarded  as  forming  a  part  of  these  instructions,  as  far  as 
they  may  accord  with  the  primary  objects  of  the  Expedition,  and  its 
present  organization.*  You  will,  therefore,  allow  the  gentlemen  of 
the  scientific  corps  the  free  perusal  of  these  valuable  documents,  and 
permit  them  to  copy  such  portions  as  they  may  think  proper. 


APPENDIX. 


381 


“  The  Russian  Vice-Admiral,  Krusenstern,  transmitted  to  the  De¬ 
partment  memorandums  relating  to  the  objects  of  this  Expedition, 
together  with  the  most  approved  charts  of  his  Atlas  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  with  explanations,  in  three  volumes.  These  are  also  confided 
to  your  care,  and  it  is  not  doubted  that  the  friendly  contribution  of 
this  distinguished  navigator,  will  essentially  contribute  to  the  success 
of  an  enterprise  in  which  he  takes  so  deep  an  interest.  It  being 
considered  highly  important,  that  no  journal  of  this  voyage,  either 
partial  or  complete,  should  be  published,  without  the  authority  and 
under  the  supervision  of  the  government,  at  whose  expense  this 
Expedition  is  undertaken,  you  will,  before  you  reach  the  waters  of 
the  United  States,  require  from  every  person  under  your  command, 
the  surrender  of  all  journals,  memorandums,  remarks,  writings,  draw¬ 
ings,  sketches,  and  paintings,  as  well  as  all  specimens  of  every  kind, 
collected  or  prepared  during  your  absence  from  the  United  States. 
After  causing  correct  inventories  of  these  to  be  made,  and  signed  by 
two  commissioned  officers,  and  by  the  parties  by  whom  they  were 
collected  or  prepared,  you  will  cause  them  to  be  carefully  sealed  by 
the  said  officers,  and  reserved  for  such  disposition  as  the  Department 
may  direct.  You  will  adopt  the  most  efficient  measures  to  prepare 
and  preserve  all  specimens  of  natural  history  that  may  be  collected ; 
and  should  any  opportunity  occur  for  sending  them  home  by  a  vessel 
of  war  of  the  United  States,  also  copies  of  information,  duplicates  of 
specimens,  or  any  other  materials,  you  may  deem  important  to  pre¬ 
serve  from  future  accident,  you  will  avail  yourself  of  the  occasion ; 
forwarding,  as  frequently  as  may  be  done  with  safety,  details  of  your 
voyage,  and  its  most  material  events ;  at  the  same  time  strictly  pro¬ 
hibiting  all  communications,  except  to  this  Department,  from  any 
person  attached  to  the  Expedition,  referring  to  discoveries,  or  any 
circumstances  connected  with  the  progress  of  your  enterprise. 

“  It  is  believed  that  the  officers  under  your  command  require  no 
special  advice  or  direction  from  this  Department.  Bearing  in  mind, 
as  they  no  doubt  will,  that  the  undertaking  in  which  they  are  about 
assisting  to  accomplish,  is  one  that  necessarily  attracts  the  attention 
of  the  civilized  world,  and  that  the  honour  and  interest  of  their 
country  are  equally  involved  in  its  results,  it  is  not  for  a  moment 
doubted,  but  that  in  this,  as  on  all  other  occasions,  they  will  so 
conduct  themselves  as  to  add  to  the  reputation  our  navy  has  so  justly 
acquired  at  home  and  abroad. 


VOL.  I. 


96 


382 


APPENDIX. 


“  With  the  best  wishes  for  the  success  of  the  Expedition,  and  the 
safe  return  of  yourself  and  your  companions, 

“  I  am,  very  respectfully,  &c., 

(Signed)  “  Jas.  K.  Paulding, 

“  Secretary  of  the  Navy. 


“Navy  Department,  August  11th,  1838.” 


(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


XII. 

GENERAL  ORDER. 

All  the  officers  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  will  be  required  to 
conform  to  the  rules  and  regulations  of  the  service,  by  keeping  a 
journal  during  the  cruise,  which  he  will  send  to  the  commander  of 
the  ship  to  which  he  may  be  attached,  weekly. 

This  journal  will  contain  the  daily  reckoning,  distances,  bearings, 
&c.,  of  the  ship  when  at  sea;  also,  a  full  record  (with  such  observa¬ 
tions  and  remarks  as  may  present  themselves)  in  relation  to  all 
occurrences  or  objects  of  interest,  which  may,  at  the  time,  he 
considered  even  of  the  least  importance,  and  which  may  come  under 
the  observation  of  the  officers,  whether  on  board  ship  or  on  shore,  and 
may  tend  to  illustrate  any  transaction  or  occurrence  which  may  take 
place,  or  afford  any  information  in  regard  to  the  manners,  habits,  or 
customs  of  natives,  and  the  position  and  characters  of  such  places  as 
may  he  visited.  The  journals  required  by  this  order  will  be  disposed 
of  agreeably  to  the  directions  of  the  Honourable  Secretary  of  the 
Navy,  and  it  is  expected  that  they  will  be  as  full  and  complete  as 
possible. 

(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  September  13th,  1838. 


APPENDIX. 


383 


XIII. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  September  13th,  1838. 

Sir, 

As  the  officers  may  not  understand  the  kind  of  journal  it  is 
necessary  for  them  to  keep,  I  take  this  occasion  to  make  known  the 
expectations  of  the  government,  and  my  wishes  respecting  this  part 
of  their  duty,  which  I  consider  as  paramount  to  all  others. 

1st.  The  duties  devolving  upon  all  the  officers  of  this  Expedition 
are  altogether  of  a  public  nature,  (and  it  is  incumbent  on  me  to  say) 
require  of  them  to  bestow  their  constant  and  devoted  attention  to  all 
incidents,  facts,  or  occurrences,  which  may  present  themselves,  in 
order  that  hereafter  they  may  (if  necessary)  verify  or  confirm  by 
their  testimony  any  information  in  relation  to  the  same,  and  thereby 
place  the  evidence  beyond  a  doubt.  This  can  only  be  effected  by 
keeping  full  and  complete  memoranda  of  all  observations,  made  at 
the  time,  and  entered  in  the  journals. 

2d.  I  consider  it  of  great  importance,  that  every  officer  should 
know  the  actual  situation  of  the  ship,  from  his  own  calculations,  that 
when  called  upon  at  any  moment,  he  might  be  able  to  refer  to  his 
own  journal  for  the  results.  On  this  might  possibly  depend  the 
safety  and  ultimate  success  of  the  Expedition,  as  one  or  two  might 
fall  into  error,  but  it  is  not  likely  that  many  would. 

3d.  The  kind  of  journal  required  is  not  a  mere  copy  of  the  log- 
board,  but  it  is  a  diary  in  which  will  be  noticed  all  that  relates  to 
public  information,  being  a  record  of  all  objects  of  interest,  however 
small,  which  may  take  place  during  the  cruise,  in  the  scientific  or 
any  other  department :  and  the  views  of  the  officer  ought  to  be  briefly 
expressed  concerning  things  that  may  come  under  his  notice.  The 
very  record  that  nothing  has  transpired  during  the  day,  may  be  of 
use ;  but  it  is  believed  that  this  will  be  of  rare  occurrence. 

The  whole  will  form  a  mass  of  evidence  for  the  use  of  the  govern¬ 
ment  on  our  return,  which  will  tend  to  illustrate  and  make  clear  the 
transactions  and  occurrences  that  may  have  taken  place,  as  well  as 
the  habits,  manners,  customs,  &c.,  of  the  natives,  and  the  positions, 
descriptions,  and  character  of  such  places  as  we  may  visit. 

These  memoranda  are  highly  essential  to  me,  in  order  that  nothing 


384 


APPENDIX. 


may  be  neglected  or  overlooked  in  conducting  the  Expedition  to  a 
successful  issue,  in  which  we  are  all  so  deeply  interested.  I  wish 
particularly  to  avail  myself  of  the  results  and  observations  of  all, 
to  avoid  the  possibility  of  passing  over  any  subject  without  full 
examination  and  remark. 

A  casual  memorandum  or  observation,  believed  at  the  time  of  little 
importance,  may  lead  to  important  and  satisfactory  results.  These 
journals,  therefore,  will  become  a  useful  medium  of  communication 
between  the  officers  and  myself,  relative  to  the  scientific  and  other 
duties  in  progress. 

I  trust  I  need  not  remark  that  the  above  relates  entirely  to  public 
transactions.  With  private  affairs  I  have  nothing  to  do :  they  are, 
and  always  should  be  deemed  sacred,  and,  consequently,  will  form  no 
part  of  the  records. 

I  enclose  a  special  order  relating  to  this  subject,  which  you  will 
promulgate  to  the  officers  of  this  ship. 

I  am,  respectfully,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Thomas  L.  Craven, 

1st  Lieutenant ,  Vincennes. 


XIV. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  September  14th,  1838. 

As  it  appears  to  me  that  the  bounty  recently  directed  by  the 
Fourth  Auditor,  to  be  checked  against  the  marines  now  attached  to 
the  Exploring  Expedition,  was  given  to  them  by  the  authority  of  the 
Navy  Department,  through  Commodore  Jones  (as  appears  by  his 
General  Order,  No.  I,)  not  as  recruits,  but  in  consideration  of  their 
obligating  themselves  to  sen/e  during  the  cruise  of  the  Expedition, 
wdthout  reference  to  their  term  of  service;  I  deem  it,  therefore, 
proper  and  just  to  order  the  Pursers  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  not 
to  check  the  bounty  against  the  marines  of  the  squadron  under  my 
command. 

(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


APPENDIX. 


385 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  September  14th,  1838. 

Sir, 

It  was  with  much  surprise  I  learnt,  a  few  days  after  sailing  from 
Hampton  Roads,  that  the  pursers  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  had 
received  instructions  from  the  F ourth  Auditor,  to  check  the  marines 
now  in  the  Exploring  Expedition  with  the  bounty  paid  them  in 
November,  1837,  by  order  of  Commodore  Jones. 

I  flattered  myself  that  I  had,  on  sailing,  overcome  all  the  obstacles 
that  had  occurred,  and  I  was  not  a  little  excited  on  finding  that  a  new 
apple  of  discord  had  been  thrown  into  the  squadron,  and  particularly 
that  part  of  it  so  valuable  and  necessary  as  the  marines. 

I  presume,  however,  this  has  been  done  without  a  knowledge  of 
the  mischief  it  might  produce  in  the  efficiency  and  progress  of  the 
Expedition,  if  carried  into  effect. 

As  it  appears  that  some  of  the  marines  who  received  this  bounty 
had  been  in  the  service  a  long  time,  and  none  of  them  were  recruits ; 
and  with  a  view  of  preventing  any  mischievous  effects  upon  those 
now  in  the  Expedition,  I  have  issued  an  order  to  the  pursers  not  to 
check  the  bounty  referred  to  ;  a  copy  of  which  is  herewith  enclosed, 
marked  No.  1 ;  also  a  letter  from  Sergeant  Stearns,  in  relation  to  the 
subject,  marked  No.  2;  I  take  leave  also  to  enclose  a  copy  of  the 
General  Order  issued  by  Commodore  Jones  to  the  Exploring  Expedi¬ 
tion  in  October,  1837,  marked  No.  3,  which  appears  to  me  to  embrace 
the  case,  and  has,  in  my  opinion,  pledged  the  faith  of  the  government 
fully ;  whether  he  was  authorized  by  the  Department  to  give  such 
pledges  or  not,  is,  I  think,  wholly  immaterial  to  the  present  case.  It 
has  been  done :  and  those  who  have  complied  and  received  the  bounty, 
believed  such  to  be  the  fact,  which  the  Department  alone  could  give, 
thereby  binding  the  contract  on  the  part  of  the  government ;  which 
(acting  for  the  best  interests  of  the  service  in  which  we  are  engaged) 
I  have  thought  proper  to  confirm  by  issuing  the  order  referred  to, 
which  I  cannot  doubt  will  meet  your  approbation. 

I  have  the  honour,  &c., 

(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition . 

To  the  Hon.  James  K.  Paulding, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy. 


VOL.  i. 


97 


386 


APPENDIX. 


XV. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Off  Madeira,  September  20th,  1838. 

Sir, 

Although,  previous  to  sailing  from  Hampton  Roads,  I  was  aware 
of  some  of  the  deficiencies  in  the  outfits  of  this  ship  and  the  Peacock, 
in  preparing  them  at  the  navy-yard,  Norfolk,  for  the  service  in  which 
we  are  engaged,  I  omitted  to  mention  the  same  to  the  Department, 
owing  to  the  necessity  of  our  sailing  without  delay  or  detention  ;  but 
since  our  arrival  at  this  port,  the  Peacock  particularly  has  been  found 
in  such  a  condition,  that  it  is  with  regret  I  consider  it  my  duty  to 
represent  the  same  to  you,  and  take  leave  to  enclose  herewith,  a 
report  of  her  commander,  by  which  it  appears  she  was  in  a  much 
worse  condition  on  leaving  the  dock-yard  at  Norfolk,  than  had  been 
anticipated ;  instead  of  being  well  prepared  for  the  service  required 
in  the  Exploring  Expedition. 

I  have  forwarded  to  you,  through  the  navy-agent  at  New  York, 
for  your  examination,  a  box  containing  an  iron  hoop,  taken  from  one 
of  the  pumps  of  the  Peacock,  as  a  fair  specimen  of  the  little  attention 
which  had  been  bestowed  upon  her  at  the  navy-yard,  in  her  repairs. 
I  have  to  state  also,  that  a  few  days  after  the  ship  left  the  navy-yard, 
her  fore  and  cross-jack-yards  were  found  so  much  decayed,  that  it 
was  necessary  to  replace  them  by  new  ones,  on  representation  of  her 
commander. 

I  consider  it  my  duty  to  state  that  we  have  found  nearly  all  the 
men  furnished  us  from  the  receiving-ship,  Norfolk,  by  your  order, 
unfit  for  the  duty  required  of  them ;  and  on  sending  some  of  them 
back,  they  refused  to  receive  them;  consequently  I  shall  have  to 
send  them  home,  or  transfer  them  to  the  squadron  on  the  Brazil 
coast,  if  Commodore  Nicolson  will  take  them,  and  obtain  others  if 
possible. 

We  shall  be  put  to  much,  inconvenience  and  delay  at  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  where  it  will  be  necessary  to  repair  and  recaulk  the  Peacock, 
as  far  as  possible  to  enable  her  to  perform  the  cruise  required ;  this 
will  be  attended  with  much  additional  expense,  and  is  another  reason 


APPENDIX. 


387 


for  making  a  full  representation  of  the  facts,  to  be  made  use  of  as  the 
Department  may  see  fit. 

I  have  the  honour  to  he,  Sir, 

Most  respectfully,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition . 

To  the  Hon.  Jas.  K.  Paulding, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy . 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock, 

Madeira,  September  18th,  1838. 

Sir, 

In  a  verbal  communication,  a  few  days  previous  to  leaving  Hampton 
Roads,  I  stated  to  you  that  I  could  point  out  many  things  that  ought 
to  be  done,  or  rather  done  over,  on  board  this  ship,  particularly  the 
caulking  about  the  water- ways,  sides  of  the  ship,  deck,  &c.,  and  that 
I  had  no  doubt  the  ship  would  make  considerable  water,  when  we 
got  to  sea  ;  as  the  work  enumerated  would  occupy  some  time,  and  to 
do  it  conveniently  we  ought  to  go  back  to  the  yard,  it  was  determined 
at  that  interview  (that  from  the  great  desire  of  the  Department,  and 
in  fact  the  whole  country,  that  the  Exploring  Squadron  should  get 
to  sea,  as  well  as  the  injurious  effects  delay  would  have  upon  the 
officers  and  men)  that  the  squadron  should  get  off  the  moment  sailing 
orders  were  received,  and  remedy  as  much  as  possible  within  our 
means,  such  defects  as  might  thereafter  show  themselves  in  the 
course  of  our  passage. 

Coinciding  most  fully  in  opinion  with  yourself,  on  that  occasion, 
as  soon  as  I  returned  to  the  Peacock,  I  had  an  examination  of  our 
pump-gear,  and.  found  but  one  set  of  boxes  in  the  two  forward  pumps, 
which,  from  their  rusty  and  otherwise  worn-out  appearance,  I  was 
induced  to  believe  had  not  been  removed  since  her  arrival  in  port. 
The  pump-gear  had  not  yet  come  on  board  :  we  immediately  sent  to 
the  navy-yard  for  it:  when  it  arrived  (the  day  before  sailing,)  the 
pumps  were  tried,  and  appeared  to  work  well ;  we  found,  however, 
two  of  the  pumps  with  half  an  inch  less  diameter  or  bore  than  the 
others ;  this  I  consider  a  defect,  for  two  reasons  :  first,  the  small  ones 
not  discharging  as  much  water  as  the  large  ;  secondly,  having  to  use 
pump-boxes  of  different  sizes  in  the  same  ship,  where  from  accident 
to  one  set,  the  other  cannot  be  used  to  make  up  the  deficiency ;  as 
the  sequel  proved,  the  ship  leaked  considerably  the  moment  we  got  a 
breeze  which  drove  us  through  the  sea ;  not  only  through  her  water- 


388 


APPENDIX. 


ways,  upper  works,  and  decks,  but  through  the  eyes  of  her  combings, 
I  presume  through  the  scarf  in  the  stem,  at  all  events  running  by 
buckets-full  down  the  apron  into  the  store-room,  forcing  such  quan¬ 
tities  of  water  on  her  berth-deck,  that  I  found  it  necessary  to  scuttle 
it  to  carry  the  water  off. 

The  chain-cables  of  the  ship  I  rowsed  out  of  the  lockers  at  sea, 
examined  the  shackles,  and  found  it  necessary  in  two  of  the  cables  to 
have  almost  every  shackle  put  in  the  forge.  So  completely  had  the 
bolts  rusted  in,  that  they  could  not  be  started  until  fire  had  done  its 
work  upon  them,  and  even  then  some  of  them  had  to  be  cut  entirely 
out.  While  thus  making  an  overhaul  below,  I  examined  the  pump- 
well,  and  to  my  utter  surprise  and  astonishment,  found  all  the  iron 
bands  on  the  two  after  pumps,  below  the  berth-deck,  in  the  state  of 
the  one  I  now  send  to  you  for  inspection  ;  and  from  the  fact  of  one  of 
them  having  entirely  rusted  off,  and  found  lying  in  pieces  at  the 
bottom  of  the  well-room,  it  may  fairly  be  inferred  they  were  not 
examined  at  all  after  the  arrival  of  the  ship  at  Norfolk.  I  had  the 
two  pumps,  from  which  the  bands  had  dropped  off,  well  woulded  at 
sea,  and  from  the  appearance  of  soft  spots  about  them,  am  fearful 
when  taken  out,  (which  must  be  done  at  Rio,)  we  will  find  them 
rotten. 

I  should  have  recommended  taking  them  out  here,  but  in  conse¬ 
quence  of  having  to  raise  up  a  portion  of  the  spar-deck  for  that 
purpose,  think  we  may  venture  to  delay  it  until  our  arrival  at  that 
port.  I  have  also  to  state  that  the  bibbs  of  both  the  fore  and  main¬ 
masts  have  started  and  canted  three-quarters  of  an  inch  forward,  and 
work  considerably  while  at  sea.  This  we  shall  remedy  by  raising 
our  lower  rigging,  tops,  and  trestle-trees,  and  endeavour  to  get  them 
back  in  their  places,  and  secure  them  with  extra  bolts.  I  have  stated 
but  a  few  of  many  defects,  and  can  only  say  that  I  have,  during  my 
service,  assisted  in  the  fitting  out  of  many  vessels,  and  regret,  under 
all  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  to  be  compelled  to  add,  that  taken 
as  a  whole,  the  Peacock  has  been  fitted  out,  (so  far  as  the  navy-yard 
was  concerned,)  with  less  regard  to  safety  and  convenience,  than  any 
vessel  I  have  ever  had  any  thing  to  do  with. 

Respectfully,  &c., 

(Signed)  Wm.  L.  Hudson, 

Commanding  U.  S.  Ship  Peacock. 


Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


APPENDIX. 


389 


XYI. 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS 

MADE 


ON  BOARD  THE  UNITED  STATES’  SHIP  VINCENNES, 


UNDER  THE  EQUATOR. 


November  6th,  1838. 

Mean  Barometer,  ..... 
Highest  at  1 1  p.  m. 

Lowest  at  3  p.  m. 


29- 99 

30- 04 
29-94 


Mean  Sympiesometer,  - 
Highest  at  11  p.  m. 
Lowest  at  4  p.  m;. 


29-68 

29-74 

29-62 


Mean  temperature  of  air, 
Mean  temperature  of  water, 


75- 37° 

76- 10° 


November  7tii. 


HOUR. 

BAROMETER. 

SYMPIESOMETER. 

REMARKS. 

P.  M. 

A.  M. 

P.  M. 

A.  M. 

1 

29-98 

29-98 

29-66 

29-68 

Mean  Barometer,  -  - 

30-00 

2 

29-98 

29-98 

29-66 

29-67 

Highest  at  9  a.  m. 

30-05 

3 

29-96 

29-98 

29-63 

29-68 

Lowest  at  3  p.  m.  -  - 

29-96 

4 

29-97 

29-98 

26-63 

29-68 

5 

29-97 

30-01 

29-64 

29-70 

Mean  Sympiesometer, 

29-68 

6 

29-98 

30-02 

29-65 

29-72 

Highest  at  8  a.m. 

29-74 

7 

30-00 

30-02 

29-68 

29-70 

Lowest  at  4  p.  m. 

29-68 

8 

30-02 

30-03 

29-68 

29-74 

9 

30-03 

30-05 

29-70 

29-72 

Mean  Temp,  of  air,  - 

76-20° 

10 

30-04 

30-02 

29-72 

29-69 

Mean  Temp,  of  water, 

76-18° 

11 

30-04 

30-00 

29-72 

29-68 

12 

29-98 

29-99 

29-68 

29-66 

VOL.  I. 


98 


390 


APPENDIX. 


X  V  I.— Continued. 
November  8th. 


HOUR. 

BAROMETER. 

SYMPIESOMETER. 

REMARKS. 

P.  M. 

A.  M. 

P.  M. 

A.  M. 

1 

29-95 

29-99 

29-64 

29-68 

Mean  Barometer,  -  - 

29-95 

2 

29-94 

29-98 

29-63 

29-65 

Highest  at  9p.i. 

30-04 

3 

29-93 

29-98 

29-60 

29-68 

Lowest  at  3  p.  m.  -  - 

29-93 

4 

29-96 

29-98 

29-62 

29-68 

5 

30-00 

30-00 

29-64 

29-70 

Mean  Sympiesometer, 

29-67 

6 

30-00 

30-00 

29-66 

29*7-2 

Highest  at  9  p.  m. 

29-74 

7 

30-03 

29-99 

29-70 

29-71 

Lowest  at  3  p.  m.  -  - 

29-60 

8 

30-04 

30-00 

29-72 

29-70 

9 

30-04 

30-01 

29-74 

29-73 

Mean  Temp,  of  air,  - 

75-18° 

10 

30-04 

30-02 

29-74 

29-72 

Mean  Temp,  of  water, 

76-26 

11 

30-02 

30-00 

29-72 

29-70 

12 

30-00 

29-98 

29-70 

29-68 

November  9ti-i. 


1 

29-98 

30-00 

29-62 

29-70 

Mean  Barometer,  -  - 

29-98 

2 

29-97 

29-98 

29-65 

29-70 

Highest  at  10  p.  m. 

30-05 

3 

29-94 

29-68 

Lowest  at  3  a.  m. 

29-94 

4 

29-95 

29-68 

5 

29-95 

29-95 

29-63 

29-68 

Mean  Sympiesometer, 

29-68 

6 

29-97 

29-98 

29-64 

29-68 

Highest  at  9  p.m. 

29-74 

7 

30-00 

30-00 

29-68 

29-70 

Lowest  at  1  a.  m:. 

29-62 

8 

30-01 

30-01 

29-74 

29-72 

9 

30-02 

30-02 

29-74 

29-70 

Mean  Temp,  of  air,  - 

75-87° 

10 

30-05 

30-02 

29-74 

29-69 

Mean  Temp,  of  water, 

76.60 

11 

30-05 

30-00 

29-74 

29-68 

12 

30-02 

29-98 

29.72 

29-64 

Of 

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SHORTEST  PASSAGE, 

29  DAYS. 

LONGEST  PASSAGE, 

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AVERAGE 
FOR  8  YRS. 

396 


APPENDIX. 


X  Y  I  I  I. - C  ONTINUED. 

AMERICAN  ARRIVALS  AT  RIO  DE  JANEIRO. 


1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

From  the  United  States, 

- 

92 

97 

119 

From  Europe, 

- 

31 

27 

39 

From  Whaling, 

■ 

26 

13 

20 

149 

137 

178 

Vessels  of  War,  - 

- 

10 

14 

18 

Total,  - 

■ 

159 

151 

196 

XIX. 

TO  THE  OFFICERS  OF  THE  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 

The  undersigned,  in  calling  the  attention  of  the  officers  of  the 
Squadron  under  his  command,  to  their  personal  appearance,  would 
observe,  that  in  his  opinion  the  example  of  some  of  them  in  this 
respect  is  not  such  as  should  indicate  to  the  crews  of  the  different 
vessels  composing  the  Squadron,  the  necessity  which  exists  of  the 
greatest  attention  being  paid  to  their  personal  appearance  and  clean¬ 
liness,  in  conformity  to  the  internal  rules  and  regulations  of  the 
Squadron. 

He  has  not  been  aware  until  recently  of  the  extent  to  which  the 
wearing  of  mustachios  has  been  carried;  they  in  most  cases  give  a 
notoriety  and  appearance  of  a  want  of  attention  to  neatness,  &c., 
which  renders  it  impossible  for  the  officer,  with  any  degree  of  consis¬ 
tency,  to  carry  the  inspection  of  their  men  or  divisions  to  that  extent, 
which  he  considers  absolutely  necessary  for  the  health  and  comfort 
of  all. 

He  believes  it  only  necessary  to  appeal  to  the  good  sense  of  the 
officers  in  order  to  remedy  their  appearance,  and  feels  assured  that 
upon  reflection  they  will  see  the  like  necessity  and  importance  of 


Vj M 


Mli 


XY II. 

TABLE  OF  METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  AT  RIO  JANEIRO,  BY  MR.  JOHN  GARDNER. 


MONTHS. 

HIGHEST  RANGE  OF  TIIERMOM. 

LOWEST  RANGE  OF  THERMOM. 

MEAN  TEMPERATURE. 

FAIR  DAYS. 

CLOUDY  DAYS. 

RAINY  DAYS. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835. 

1836. 

1837. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835. 

1836. 

1837. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835. 

1836. 

1837. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835. 

1836. 

1837. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835. 

1836. 

1837. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835. 

1836. 

1837. 

JANUARY. 

92-5° 

89° 

91° 

90° 

91° 

74° 

80° 

74° 

76° 

73° 

80-75° 

78-33° 

76° 

76-66° 

82° 

12 

22 

21 

26 

24 

7 

5 

4 

2 

3 

12 

4 

6 

3 

4 

FEBRUARY. 

93 

90 

91 

90 

85 

79 

79 

76 

78 

76 

74-33 

77-5 

71 

73-06 

79-8 

20 

24 

25 

23 

18 

3 

3 

0 

3 

6 

5 

1 

3 

3 

4 

MARCH. 

90 

88 

85 

90 

86 

76 

77 

74 

76 

73 

73-5 

70 

71-4 

70-87 

78-6 

23 

20 

18 

18 

23 

3 

6 

1 

4 

3 

5 

5 

12 

9 

5 

APRIL. 

88 

84 

80 

82 

79 

76 

72 

72 

68 

69 

72-25 

73-5 

74 

74-29 

75-5 

25 

15 

15 

25 

12 

5 

6 

3 

2 

8 

0 

9 

12 

3 

10 

MAY. 

78 

82 

78 

73 

80 

71 

72 

68 

67 

68 

76 

72-66 

75 

75-77 

73-5 

24 

24 

16 

22 

23 

2 

4 

5 

4 

5 

5 

9 

12 

5 

3 

JUNE. 

77 

75 

75 

78 

74 

69 

66 

68 

66 

65 

78-33 

76-66 

72-3 

72-8 

68 

28 

15 

20 

18 

24 

2 

4 

5 

6 

2 

0 

3 

10 

6 

4 

JULY. 

76 

77 

77 

77 

76 

67 

69 

68 

66 

64 

79 

75-25 

76 

75 

70 

26 

21 

25 

25 

21 

4 

5 

3 

4 

5 

1 

11 

5 

2 

5 

AUGUST. 

81 

79 

79 

82 

80 

71 

66 

64 

70 

67 

83 

76 

77-75 

76-3 

72-5 

23 

18 

19 

26 

25 

5 

4 

6 

4 

3 

3 

5 

3 

1 

3 

SEPTEMBER. 

84 

84 

79 

81 

85 

73 

72 

66 

65 

67 

84 

80-75 

78-75 

79-9 

74 

27 

20 

15 

20 

15 

1 

7 

8 

5 

5 

2 

9 

6 

5 

10 

OCTOBER. 

86 

84 

80 

83 

83 

75 

68 

69 

66 

73 

82-5 

83-5 

82 

83-5 

■77 

25 

16 

19 

21 

27 

4 

5 

8 

4 

1 

2 

3 

7 

6 

3 

NOVEMBER. 

89 

83 

84 

83 

82 

76 

71 

73 

72 

72 

87 

84 

84-66 

85-2 

77 

24 

18 

19 

18 

15 

2 

5 

6 

6 

13 

4 

10 

4 

6 

2 

DECEMBER. 

91 

90 

88 

86 

85 

80 

72 

72 

76 

73 

83-5 

81-25 

78-5 

82-75 

78-35 

19 

25 

20 

"22 

16 

3 

2 

3 

5 

10 

9 

7 

5 

4 

5 

1  8  3  3. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Thermo¬ 
meter  at  noon,  for  12  months,  -  85-5° 
Mean  of  the  lowest  range  of  Thermo¬ 
meter  at  noon,  for  12  months,  -  74 
Mean  temp,  for  12  months  at  noon,  79-5 
Fair  days  in  12  months,  276  1 
Cloudy  do.  do.  41  V  365 

Rainy  do.  do.  48  ) 


1  8  34. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Ther¬ 
mometer  at  noon,  for  12  months,  83-75° 
Mean  of  the  lowest  range  of  Ther¬ 
mometer  at  noon,  for  12  months,  72 
Mean  temp,  for  12  months,  at  noon,  77-5 
Fair  days  in  12  months,  238  J 
Cloudy  do.  do.  56  l  365 

Rainy  do.  do.  71 J 


1  8  35. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Ther¬ 
mometer  at  noon,  for  12  months,  82-25° 
Mean  of  the  lowest  range  of  Ther¬ 
mometer  at  noon,  for  12  months,  70-33 
Mean  temp,  for  12  months  at  noon,  76-25 
Fair  days  in  12  months,  232  1 
Cloudy  do.  do.  52  >  365 

Rainy  do.  do.  81  j 


1  8  36. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Ther¬ 
mometer  at  noon,  for  12  months,  83° 
Mean  of  the  lowest  range  of  Ther¬ 
mometer  at  noon,  lor  12  months,  70 
Mean  temp,  for  12  months  at  noon,  77-13 
Fair  days  in  12  months,  264  1 
Cloudy  do.  do.  49  >  366 

Rainy  do.  do.  53  } 


1  8  37. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Ther¬ 
mometer  at  noon,  for  12  months,  82-16 
Mean  of  the  lowest  range  of  Ther¬ 
mometer  at  noon,  for  12  months,  70 
Mean  temp,  for  12  months  at  noon,  75-52 
Fair  days  in  12  months,  243  1 
Cloudy  do.  do.  64  >  365 

Rainy  do.  do.  58  ) 


MONTHS. 

HIGHEST  RANGE  OF  THERM. 

LOWEST  RANGE  OF  THERM. 

MEAN  TEMPERATURE. 

FAIR 

DAYS. 

CLOUDY  DAYS. 

RAINY 

DAYS. 

1838. 

1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

1838. 

1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

1838. 

1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

1838. 

1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

1838. 

1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

1838. 

1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

JANUARY. 

86° 

87° 

88° 

87° 

75° 

74° 

75° 

75° 

82-12 

81-71 

82-64 

83-35 

12 

16 

20 

16 

10 

6 

6 

2 

9 

9 

5 

13 

FEBRUARY. 

87 

88 

88 

84 

76 

77 

82 

77 

83-1 

82-7 

84-72 

81-32 

17 

16 

26 

16 

6 

11 

1 

6 

5 

8 

2 

6 

MARCH. 

86 

83 

85 

87 

74 

75 

75 

82 

78-9 

80-25 

78-77 

84-30 

17 

13 

13 

30 

7 

12 

10 

1 

7 

6 

8 

0 

APRIL. 

82 

83 

80 

85 

72 

73 

75 

78 

77-13 

77-4 

77-93 

80-5 

18 

20 

24 

17 

7 

2 

6 

8 

5 

8 

0 

5 

MAY. 

76 

79 

80 

78 

68 

71 

70 

71 

71-17 

74-51 

76-22 

74-84 

22 

18 

18 

17 

5 

9 

8 

8 

4 

4 

5 

6 

JUNE. 

76 

76 

76 

75 

70 

68 

68 

69 

72-36 

71-44 

72-37 

71-26 

25 

25 

21 

25 

2 

3 

6 

2 

3 

2 

3 

3 

JULY. 

75 

75 

74 

74 

69 

65 

68 

68 

72-03 

69-61 

71-48 

71-29 

22 

23 

19 

17 

4 

2 

6 

10 

5 

6 

6 

4 

AUGUST. 

75 

76 

75 

77 

66 

65 

65 

66 

70-87 

72-12 

71-^gf 

72-09 

20 

24 

19 

25 

4 

4 

5 

4 

7 

3 

7 

2 

SEPTEMBER. 

78 

76 

82 

77 

70 

68 

73 

68 

75-36 

72-77 

76-16 

74-47 

25 

15 

19 

19 

3 

6 

7 

9 

2 

9 

4 

2 

OCTOBER. 

83 

82 

86 

84 

72 

69 

73 

72 

77-5 

74-03 

79-77 

75-67 

18 

15 

20 

12 

8 

6 

4 

10 

5 

10 

7 

9 

NOVEMBER. 

86 

86 

84 

84 

72 

74 

76 

73 

77-4 

75-93 

78-76 

77-26 

14 

17 

13 

8 

9 

7 

4 

12 

7 

6 

13 

10 

DECEMBER. 

90 

88 

87 

84 

75 

74 

79 

72 

82-3 

80-58 

82-80 

77-24 

18 

17 

19 

8 

5 

6 

4 

6 

8 

8 

8 

17 

1  8  3  8. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Thermometer  at 

noon,  for  12  months,  ....  81-66 
Mean  of  lowest  do.  do.  do.  71'53 

Mean  temperature  for  12  months,  at  noon,  76-53 
Fair  days  in  do.  228,  Cloudy,  70,  Rainy,  67,  365 


1  83  9. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Thermometer  at 

noon,  for  12  months,  ....  81-58 
Mean  of  lowest  do.  do.  do.  71-08 

Mean  temperature  for  12  months,  at  noon,  76-03 
Fair  days  in  do.  219,  Cloudy,  67,  Rainy,  79,  365 


_ 1  8  40. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Thermometer  at 

noon,  for  12  months,  ....  82-08 
Mean  of  lowest  do.  do.  do.  73-25 

Mean  temperature  for  12  months,  at  noon,  77-75 
Fair  days  in  do.  231,  Cloudy,  67,  Rainy,  68,  366 


1841. 

Mean  of  the  highest  range  of  Thermometer  at 

noon,  for  12  months,  ....  81.33 
Mean  of  lowest  do.  do.  do.  72-58 

Mean  temperature  for  12  months,  at  noon,  76-92 
Fair  days  in  do.  210,  Cloudy,  78,  Rainy,  77,  365 

Rainy  days,  from  1833  to  Ml 
9  years,  -  -  -  67 


Mean  av’ge  of  highest  range  Therm. 


Mean  av’ge  of  lowest  range  Therm. 

Mean  temperature  at 

noon,  from 

Average  fair  days,  from  1833  to 

Cloudy  days,  from  1833  to 

Ml, 

!  1833  to  Ml,  9  years,  at  noon,  71-064 

1833  to  ’41,  9  years, 

77-01 

Ml,  9  years,  -  -  -  237 

9  years,  -  -  - 

60 

APPENDIX. 


397 


preserving,  in  this  first  national  Expedition,  the  usual  appearance, 
habits,  and  customs  of  their  own  country. 

Very  respectfully, 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition . 

United  States’  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  October  8th,  1838. 


United  States’  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  November  1st,  1838. 

Sir, 

As  some  misapprehension  may  exist  in  relation  to  the  use  for  which 
the  reading-room,  or  forward  cabin,  is  intended,  I  think  it  as  well  to 
briefly  state  my  views  respecting  its  uses,  in  which  I  have  no  doubt 
all  will  see  the  propriety  of  concurring. 

I  view  it  then  in  the  same  light  as  the  ship’s  library,  or  a  place 
where  every  one  may  usefully  employ  himself,  free  from  the  usual 
interruption  of  the  ship’s  duty,  and  not  subject  to  other  practices, 
which  would  cause  interruption  in  the  use  of  books. 

The  accommodations,  though  not  large,  will  with  due  respect  and 
consideration  for  each  other’s  views,  be  found  to  be  ample,  and  will 
naturally  prevent  any  one  from  appropriating  exclusively  its  small 
conveniences  to  himself ;  or  using  its  table  for  writing  (intended  for 
books  and  the  facility  of  reference  to  them),  as  there  no  doubt  exists 
sufficient  room  in  the  several  apartments  appropriated  to  the  different 
officers  for  that  purpose,  without  incommoding  any  one. 

You  will  therefore  keep  its  use  confined  to  these  purposes,  and  not 
permit  the  issue  of  slops,  &c.,  to  take  place  in  it. 

Respectfully, 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Thomas  T.  Craven, 

United  States’  Ship  Vincennes. 


ORDERS  FOR  THE  VINCENNES. 

The  following  arrangements  in  regard  to  the  scientific  duties  of  the 
officers  of  this  ship,  will  be  adopted  wdien  in  port. 

Lieutenant  Craven  will  aid  the  scientific  corps  as  Assistant  Natu¬ 
ralist,  when  his  duties  on  board  can  be  dispensed  with. 

100 


VOL.  I. 


398 


APPENDIX. 


Lieutenant  Carr  will  be  engaged  with  me  in  scientific  duty  at  the 
observatory. 

Lieutenant  Johnson  will  perform  the  duty  of  first-lieutenant  during 
the  absence  of  Lieutenant  Craven,  and  will  be  excused  from  night 
watch  when  so  engaged.  The  officers  will  be  divided  into  watches 
for  duty  on  board  ship,  at  the  observatory,  and  elsewhere,  as  fol¬ 
lows  : 

1st  watch,  Lieutenant  Johnson  and  Passed  Midshipman  Totten. 

2d  watch,  Lieutenant  Alden  and  Passed  Midshipman  Reynolds. 

3d  watch,  Lieutenant  Maury  and  Passed  Midshipman  May. 

4th  wTatch,  Acting-Master  North  and  Passed  Midshipman  Sandford. 

A  relief  watch  will  at  all  times  be  on  board  ship  for  such  duty  as 
may  be  required. 

Mr.  Elliot,  chaplain,  supernumerary  for  such  duty  as  may  be 
required. 

Midshipmen  Clark  and  Elliott,  will  be  excused  from  watch  for 
boats  and  other  duty. 

Acting-Surgeon  Gilchrist  will  be  associated  with  Mr.  Rich,  Bota¬ 
nist,  of  the  Expedition. 

Assistant-Surgeon  Fox,  as  assistant  to  William  Peale,  Naturalist, 
and  Mr.  Dana,  Mineralogist. 

Assistant-Surgeon  Whittle  as  assistant  to  Dr.  Pickering. 

The  officers  attached  to  the  tenders,  Sea-Gull  and  Flying-Fish, 
will  be  associated  in  scientific  duties  with  the  first  and  fourth  wmtches 
of  the  Vincennes  and  Peacock. 

The  arrangements  heretofore  made  in  regard  to  the  duties  of  the 
medical  officers  will  be  complied  with  until  further  orders,  which 
will  enable  them  to  devote  much  of  their  time  to  the  scientific  duties ; 
and  it  is  desirable  that  they  should  receive  from  the  scientific  gen¬ 
tlemen,  with  whom  they  are  associated,  every  facility  which  can  be 
afforded  them,  and  every  opportunity  of  being  useful. 

As  the  object  of  this  association  of  duty  is  to  extend  as  far  as 
possible  the  operations  of  the  Expedition,  it  is  earnestly  requested 
that  the  gentlemen  composing  the  scientific  corps  will  on  all  occa¬ 
sions  avail  themselves  of  the  services  of  those  officers  who  by  this 
order  have  been  associated  with  them,  and  of  all  others  who  may 
(when  their  duties  and  time  will  permit)  be  desirous  of  aiding 
or  advancing  the  interests  of  the  Expedition,  by  making  collections, 
drawings,  &c.,  and  that  the  utmost  harmony,  good  feeling,  and 
concert  of  action  may  exist  at  all  times,  as  nothing  will  so  much 


APPENDIX. 


399 


tend  to  promote  the  usefulness,  and  be  the  means  of  extending  the 
objects  of  the  Expedition. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

November  20th,  1838. 


ORDERS  FOR  THE  PEACOCK. 

The  officers  to  be  divided  into  watches,  the  same  as  the  Vincennes, 
and  a  relief  watch  to  he  always  on  board. 

Midshipmen  Henry  and  Hudson  excused  from  watch  for  boat 
duty,  &c. 

Dr.  Sickles  associated  with  Mr.  Couth ouy  for  scientific  duty.  Dr. 
Holmes  also  to  aid  in  scientific  duty. 

The  orders  in  regard  to  the  medical  officers  the  same  as  the 
Vincennes. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  November  21st,  1838. 


ORDERS  FOR  THE  PORPOISE. 

The  following  arrangements  in  regard  to  the  scientific  duties  of 
the  officers  of  the  Porpoise  when  in  port,  will  be  adopted. 

The  officers  will  be  divided  into  watches,  to  perform  duty  on  board, 
at  the  observatory,  and  elsewhere,  as  follows : 

1st  watch,  Lieutenant  Clairborne  and  Passed  Midshipman  Blunt. 
2d  watch,  Lieutenant  Hartstein  and  Acting  Midshipman  Baldwin. 
3d  watch,  Lieutenant  Dale  and  Passed  Midshipman  Colvocoressis. 
Lieutenant  Dale  in  sketching,  when  his  other  duties  will  permit. 
Dr.  Gillou  on  duty  as  Assistant  Naturalist,  and  will  make  himself 
useful  in  all  the  departments. 

The  order  for  medical  officers  the  same  as  the  Vincennes. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  November  21st,  1838. 


400 


APPENDIX. 


ORDERS  FOR  THE  RELIEF. 

The  watch  officers  to  be  divided  the  same  as  on  board  the  Porpoise, 
as  follows : 

1st  watch,  Lieutenant  Pinckney  and  Passed  Midshipman  Davis. 

2d  watch,  Lieutenant  Case  and  Passed  Midshipman  Cummings. 

3d  watch,  Lieutenant  Underwood  and  Passed  Midshipman  Sin¬ 
clair. 

Lieutenant  Case,  when  his  other  duties  will  permit,  will  assist  in 
the  naturalist  department. 

Dr.  Palmer  will  be  attached  to  the  scientific  department,  as  assis¬ 
tant  to  Dr.  Pickering  and  Mr.  Couthouy,  Naturalist. 

Midshipman  Blair  will  be  excused  from  watch  for  boat  duty. 

Lieutenant  Underwood  will  be  employed  in  sketching,  &c. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  November  21st,  1838. 


XX. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  December  15th,  1838. 

Sir, 

You  will  proceed  and  make  a  survey  of  a  shoal  said  to  exist  off 
Cape  St.  Thomas,  about  sixty  miles  north  of  Cape  Frio,  with  the 
Peacock,  Porpoise,*  Sea-Gull,  and  Flying-Fish,  which  are  placed 
under  your  command  for  the  duty. 

This  shoal  is  supposed  to  be  about  twenty  miles  east-half-north 
from  Cape  St.  Thomas. 

In  surveying  it,  as  far  as  I  am  able  to  judge  of  its  locality,  I  would 
recommend  the  following  mode  to  be  pursued,  viz. : 

On  your  arrival  at  or  near  its  supposed  locality,  anchor  your  four 
vessels  at  convenient  distances  from  each  other,  within  a  suitable 
distance  for  admeasurement  by  sound.  Here  ascertain  your  latitude 
and  longitude  accurately,  measure  your  distance  between  all  the 
vessels  by  sound,  firing  guns  in  succession,  noting  the  elapse  of  time 

*  The  Porpoise  was  not  on  this  duty ;  these  orders  were  countermanded,  as  she  could 
not  be  prepared  for  sea  in  season. 


APPENDIX. 


401 


between  the  flash  and  report ;  then,  or  before,  measnre  the  azimuth 
between  each  vessel  and  the  sun,  and  proceed  with  your  boats  to 
sound,  radiating  from  each  vessel  on  the  several  points  of  bearings : 
the  position  of  your  boats  may  be  accurately  ascertained  by  the 
angles  on  any  three  of  the  vessels,  and  the  soundings  obtained  can  at 
once  be  inserted  on  the  skeleton  chart  prepared  for  the  occasion. 

You  will,  while  at  anchor,  heave  the  current-log  every  hour,  and 
notice  the  direction  by  the  head  of  your  ship.  After  you  have  satis¬ 
factorily  explored  the  ground  that  your  vessel  may  have  anchored  on, 
you  will  then,  in  all  probability,  know  the  direction  in  which  the 
shoalest  water  lies  from  you,  and  by  shifting  the  anchorage  of  each 
vessel  in  succession  toward  that  direction,  you  will  occupy  new 
ground,  when  the  same  operation  of  measuring  bases  by  sound,  and 
taking  azimuths,  will  be  gone  through  with,  and  then  you  may 
approach  the  position  without  any  danger,  as  your  chart  will  be 
constructed  as  you  proceed. 

Lieutenant  Johnson  has  been  ordered  to  the  Porpoise  to  super¬ 
intend  her  movements  in  regard  to  this  survey,  and  Lieutenant 
Alden  to  your  ship,  in  whose  information,  as  respects  the  above  mode 
of  proceeding,  you  may  rely. 

Mr.  Knox,  of  the  Flying-Fish,  is  also  apt  at  this  work.  I  have 
ordered  Mr.  May  to  assist  him  in  this  cruise,  and  Mr.  Eld,  of  your 
ship,  to  assist  in  the  duties  on  board  the  Sea-Gull. 

After  you  have  obtained  the  necessary  information  in  regard  to 
this  shoal,  (should  you  be  so  fortunate  as  to  find  it,)  you  will  return 
to  Cape  Frio,  and  from  thence  measure  the  distance  from  this  harbour 
by  sound. 

The  most  efficient  mode  of  doing  this,  I  conceive  as  follows,  viz. : 
After  getting  the  light  in  sight,  anchor  the  three  vessels  so  as  to  form 
a  triangle,  and  take  their  azimuthal  bearings  from  the  sun,  measuring 
by  sound  the  distance  between  the  vessels,  which  will  give  you  the 
bases  of  the  triangle,  then  measure  the  angles  from  on  board  the 
vessels,  with  the  light-house,  and  this  will  give  you  data  to  calculate 
its  distance  and  bearing,  thence  proceed  west,  keeping  the  vessels  in 
range,  and  as  soon  as  you  get  their  distance  and  bearing  change  their 
positions  alternately. 

V ery  respectfully, 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Captain  William  L.  Hudson, 

Commanding  U.  S.  Ship  Peacock. 

VOL.  i.  101 


402 


APPENDIX. 


XXL 

POPULATION  OF  BRAZIL, 

Estimated  by  the  numbers  of  houses  furnished  by  the  returns  of  Elections  for  Deputies  in 
1833,  to  the  National  Legislature,  calculating  each  habitation  as  containing  five  free 
people,  and  the  slaves  as  being  two-fifths  of  the  whole  population. 


PROVINCES. 

NO.  OF  HOUSES. 

INHABITANTS. 

PARA 

- 

24,500 

102,500 

MARANHAO 

- 

30,600 

153,000 

PIANIIY 

- 

11,300 

56,500 

CEARA  .... 

- 

35,900 

179,500 

RIO  GRANDE  DEE  NORTE 

- 

12,400 

62,000 

PARAHIBA 

- 

24,700 

123,500 

PERNAMBUCO 

- 

59,900 

299,500 

ALAGOAS 

- 

33,300 

166,500 

SERGISSE  ... 

- 

20,700 

103,500 

BAHIA  ...  - 

- 

87,600 

438,000 

CUIABA  ...  - 

- 

5,600 

28,000 

GOYAS,  SLAVES,  (17,375) 

- 

13,900 

69,500 

MINAS  GERAES,  (24,600) 

- 

120,800 

604,000 

ESPIRITO  SANTO 

- 

7,700 

38,500 

RIO  DE  JANEIRO,  (117,600) 

- 

58,800 

294,000 

ST.  PAULO,  (94,166)  - 

- 

56,100 

282,500 

st.  Catherine’s 

- 

9,800 

47,000 

RIO  GRANDE  DO  SOL,  (20,500) 

- 

16,400 

82,000 

Statement  of  the  exports  of  the  principal  products  of  Brazil,  during  the  year  1838,  showing  the  quantity  that  was  exported  to  foreign  Ports,  and  the  flag  under 

which  it  was  shipped. 


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APPENDIX. 


XXIV. 

SAILING  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  RELIEF,  NOT  TO  BE  OPENED 

UNTIL  AT  SEA. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  December  18th,  1838. 

Sir, 

You  will  sail  from  this  harbour,  and  follow  strictly  the  following 
instructions,  which  are  intended  for  your  government. 

1st.  You  will  proceed  with  all  possible  despatch  with  the  Relief, 
under  your  command,  to  Orange  Harbour,  and  there  await  my 
arrival. 

2d.  Orange  Harbour  is  situated  in  latitude  55°  30'  50”  S.,  and 
longitude  68°  00'  23”  W. 

3d.  You  will  pursue  such  a  course  as  will  take  you  on  soundings 
about  latitude  45°  S.,  and  continue  on  them  all  the  way  to  Terra  del 
Fuego,  as  near  as  you  can  to  the  land,  westerly  winds  prevailing 
most  of  the  way. 

4th.  You  will  pass  through  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  and  double 
close  around  the  southeast  point  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  keeping  in  with 
the  land,  until  you  are  up  with  the  Hermit  Islands ;  you  will  then 
have  your  port  open  to  you  clear  of  hidden  dangers. 

5th.  A  plan  of  Orange  Harbour  is  among  your  book  of  charts  No. 
1079. 

6th.  On  your  arrival  there,  you  will  set  up  tide-staves,  similar  to 
those  now  in  use  by  us  on  the  Island  of  Enxados,  and  keep  an  hourly 
register  of  the  rise  and  fall. 

7th.  At  Orange  Harbour,  you  will  employ  your  crew  in  cutting 
fifty  cords  of  the  best  wood,  and  deposit  the  same  at  the  most  con¬ 
venient  landings,  for  the  use  of  the  squadron  on  its  arrival. 

8th.  You  will  fill  up  with  water,  and  have  your  stores  and  provi¬ 
sions  ready  for  any  delivery. 

9th.  Your  anchorage  will  be  within  Burnt  Island,  where  you  will 
establish  the  light  sent  you,  which  you  will  place  in  charge  of  some 
careful  person,  to  be  kept  lighted  during  the  night.  In  the  event  of 
its  failing,  you  will  keep  a  bonfire  on  shore,  as  a  night-signal  for  the 
squadron. 


XXIII. 


RESULTS  OF  THE  MEASUREMENT  OF  A  BASE  LINE  BY  SOUND,  BETWEEN  CAPE  FRIO  LIGHT-HOUSE  AND  ENXADOS  ISLAND. 


POSITION  OF  VESSELS. 

ASTRONOMICAL 

BEARING. 

DISTANCES. 

DIFF.  OF  LAT. 

DIFF.  OF  LON. 

POSITION  OF  VESSELS. 

ASTRONOMICAL 

BEARING. 

DISTANCES. 

DIFF.  OF  LAT. 

DIFF.  OF  LON. 

From  Light-house  to  Flying-Fish’s  1st, 

S.  85°  07'  W. 

19514-40  feet. 

1661-2  S. 

20649-0  W. 

From  Peacock’s  6th  to  Flying-Fish’s  6th, 

S.  87°  04'  W. 

12914-94  feet. 

660-9  S. 

14012-0  W. 

“  Flying-Fish’s  1st  to  Sea-Gull’s  1st, 

87  45 

7009-34 

275-2 

7608-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  6th  to  Peacock’s  7th, 

87  12 

20242-51 

988-9 

21965-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  1st  to  Peacock’s  2d, 

85  31 

15475-17 

1209-7 

16758-0 

“  ^Peacock’s  7th  to  Sea-Gull’s  7th, 

87  44 

20993-89 

830-3 

22889-0 

“  Peacock’s  2d  to  Flying-Fish’s  2d, 

87  46 

9524-40 

371-1 

10337-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  7th  to  Flying-Fish’s  7th, 

89  54 

15076-91 

26-3 

16379-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  2d  to  Sea-Gull’s  2d, 

85  16 

12778-39 

1054-4 

13835-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  7th  to  Sea-Gull’s  8th, 

89  46 

13654-56 

55-6 

14833-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  2d  to  Peacock’s  3d, 

85  52 

13426-98 

967-7 

14546-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  8th  to  Peacock’s  8th, 

N.  89  46 

19166-72 

78-1  N. 

20829-0 

“  Peacock’s  3d  to  Flying-Fish’s  3d, 

85  27 

10525-39 

834-9 

11397-0 

“  Peacock’s  8th  to  Flying-Fish’s  8th, 

89  58 

21619-72 

12-6 

23487-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  3d  to  Sea-Gull’s  3d, 

86  04 

13381-47 

918-1 

14501-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  8th  to  Sea-Gull’s  9th, 

89  52 

16044-11 

37-3 

17429-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  3d  to  Peacock’s  4th, 

86  13 

20845-96 

1375-5 

22594-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  9th  to  Peacock’s  9th, 

89  52 

16157-90 

37-6 

17553-0 

“  Peacock’s  4th  to  Flying-Fish’s  4th, 

85  12 

12821-91 

1073-0 

13879-0 

“  Peacock’s  9th  to  Flying-Fish’s  9th, 

25  00 

18820-54 

17057 

8639-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  4th  to  Sea-Gull’s  4th, 

84  43 

10468-50 

964-9 

11322-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  9th to  Sea-Gull’s  1 0th, 

26  00 

14030-06 

12610-0 

6678-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  4th  to  Peacock’s  5th, 

86  33 

16055-49 

966-2 

17410-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  10th  to  Peacock’s  10th, 

25  05 

15076-91 

13655-0 

6938-0 

“  Peacock’s  5th  to  Flying-Fish’s  5th, 

85  48 

12801-15 

937-5 

13867-0 

“  Peacock’s  10th  to  Flying-Fish’s  10th 

24  45 

10877-13 

1878-3 

4942-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  5th  to  Sea-Gull’s  5th, 

85  10 

8056  19 

678-8 

8720-0 

“  Flying-Fish’s  1 0th  to  Sea-Gull’s  1 1th 

24  05 

2695-70 

2461-4 

1194-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  5th  to  Peacock’s  6th, 

84  41 

18524-69 

1716-5 

20048-0 

“  Sea-Gull’s  11th  to  Enxados  Island, 

S.  84  34 

2726-00 

259-1  S. 

2956-0 

_ 

38001-5  N. 

418194-5  W. 

*  The  Peacock  here  changed  to  Sea-Gull’s  position. 


Meridian  Distances  between  Cape  Frio  Light-house  and  Enxados  Island. 
By  Sound,  ...  1°  08'  52"  8"' 

By  Chronometer,  .  1  09  48  0 


Longitude  of  Enxados  Island, . 43°  09'  06"  67"' 

Difference  of  Longitude,  ....  1  08  52  8 

Longitude  of  Cape  Frio  Light-house,  42°  00'  13"  87'" 


•fgfRwzci  I. 

'JR-rtfoTirla,  T. 


APPENDIX. 


409 


10th.  Yon  will  carefully  preserve  all  the  soundings,  brought  up  by 
your  deep-sea  lead,  in  papers,  with  the  positions  where  they  were  had. 

11th.  On  your  route  you  will  make  repeated  trials  of  the  current, 
and  while  on  soundings  you  will  anchor  your  boat  with  the  deep-sea 
lead,  making  use  of  the  current-log.  Your  acting-master  has  been 
shown  the  one  in  use  on  board  this  ship. 

12th.  You  will  expose  two  thermometers,  one  having  its  bulb 
covered  with  black  wool,  daily  to  the  influence  of  the  sun,  and  note 
the  difference  in  your  journal ;  also  that  which  is  shown  in  the  shade ; 
and  you  will  continue  all  observations  as  heretofore. 

13th.  It  is  believed  that  the  Relief  will  not  require  any  repairs ; 
should,  however,  any  be  necessary,  you  will  complete  them  at  once. 

14th.  You  will  avoid  being  blown  off  to  the  eastward  by  all  the 
means  in  your  power ;  running  with  the  coast,  and  anchoring  during 
the  continuance  of  westerly  gales  under  the  land,  is  recommended.  I 
am  not  aware  that  you  have  any  dangers  to  fear,  except  kelp,  which 
you  may  run  boldly  towards,  but  avoid  entering. 

15th.  You  will  afford  Mr.  Rich,  the  Botanist,  every  facility  in 
collecting  specimens,  &c.,  and,  if  possible,  seek  out  places  where  a 
quantity  of  wild  celery -grass  may  be  collected  for  the  crews  on  our 
arrival. 

16th.  You  will  issue  to  such  of  the  crew  as  may  require  the  warm 
articles  of  clothing  supplied  for  the  Exploring  Expedition,  charging 
them  at  the  usual  slop  prices,  which  will  be  remitted  at  the  end  of 
the  cruise,  on  the  good  behaviour  of  the  men. 

17th.  You  will  give  particular  attention  to  the  health  and  comfort 
of  the  officers  and  crew. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  andvspeedy  passage  to  your  port  of  destination, 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Com.  A.  K.  Long, 

United  States  Ship  Relief. 


United  States  Ship  Vincennes, 

Off  Rio  de  Janeix*o,  Jan.  5th,  1839. 

Sir, 

In  the  event  of  our  separating,  which,  however,  you  will  avoid  by 
all  possible  exertions,  you  will  proceed  with  all  despatch  to  Orange 


103 


VOL.  I. 


410 


APPENDIX. 


Harbour,  which  is  situated  in  latitude  55°  30'  50"  S.,  longitude 
68°  00'  23"  W.,  taking  such  a  course  as  will  put  you  on  soundings  in 
about  latitude  45°  S. ;  continue  in  them  all  the  way  to  Terra  del 
Fuego,  keeping  close  in  with  the  land  as  westerly  gales  prevail. 

You  will  pass  through  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  and  double  close 
round  the  southeast  point  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  until  you  are  up  with 
the  Hermit  Islands ;  you  will  then  have  your  port  open  to  you,  clear 
of  hidden  dangers. 

You  will  avoid  being  blown  off  to  the  eastward  by  all  the  means 
in  your  power,  running  in  with  the  coast,  and  anchoring  during  the 
westerly  gales.  I  am  not  aware  that  you  have  any  dangers  to  fear 
except  kelp,  which  you  may  run  boldly  for,  but  avoid  entering. 

On  your  arrival  at  Orange  Harbour,  you  will  find  me  or  instruc¬ 
tions,  or  you  will  await  my  arrival  there. 

You  will  issue  to  such  of  the  crew  as  require  them,  the  articles  of 
warm  clothing  supplied  for  the  Exploring  Expedition,  charging  them 
at  the  usual  slop  prices,  to  be  remitted  them  at  the  end  of  the  cruise, 
on  their  good  behaviour. 

You  will  give  particular  attention  to  the  cleanliness  of  your  ship, 
and  the  health  of  the  officers  and  crew. 

A  chart  of  Orange  Harbour  will  be  found  in  your  Book  of  Charts, 
No.  1079. 

Lieutenant-Commandant  Long,  has  been  directed  to  keep  the  light 
burning  during  the  night,  on  Burnt  Island,  as  a  signal  to  the 
squadron. 

I  send  you  herewith  the  rates  of  your  chronometers. 

Very  respectfully, 

Chakles  Wilkes, 

Commanding,  Exploring  Expedition. 

To  Captain  William  L.  Hudson, 

Peacock. 

Lieutenant-Commandant  C.  Ringgold, 

Porpoise. 

Passed  Midshipman  J.  W.  E.  Reid, 

Sea-Gull. 

Passed  Midshipman  S.  R.  Knox, 

Flying-Fish. 


APPENDIX. 


411 


GENERAL  ORDERS. 

As  difficulties  frequently  occur  in  regard  to  the  dates  of  the  log¬ 
books  and  journals  of  the  squadron  under  my  command,  owing  to  the 
difference  between  civil  and  nautical  time;  hereafter,  all  the  log-books 
and  journals  will  be  kept  in  civil  time,  commencing  at  twelve  o’clock 
this  day,  being  the  meridian  of  the  20th  of  February,  1839. 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Explormg  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  Feb.  20th,  1839. 


XXV. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 
February  22d,  1839. 

Sir, 

Although  I  am  aware  of  the  lateness  of  the  season,  and  the  risk 
to  be  incurred  in  attempting  to  make  any  explorations  within  the 
Antarctic  Circle;  yet  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  there  are  many 
advantages  to  be  derived  from  it,  that  will  prove  of  incalculable 
benefit  in  any  future  attempts  we  may  hereafter  make  at  the  proper 
season. 

You  will,  therefore,  with  the  Peacock  and  tender  Flying-Fish, 
make  the  attempt  to  carry  out  the  following  instructions. 

1st.  On  sailing  from  this  anchorage,  you  will  proceed  as  far  as  the 
Ne  Plus  Ultra  of  Captain  Cook,  in  longitude  105°  W.,  and  from 
thence  you  will  extend  your  researches  as  far  to  the  southward  and 
eastward  as  you  can  reach,  without  rendering  yourself  liable  to  be 
closed  in  by  the  ice. 

2d.  You  will  carefully  note  your  daily  positions  on  the  skeleton 
chart,  herewith,  and  trace  upon  it  by  astronomical  and  tangent  obser¬ 
vations  (not  by  compass),  all  the  ice  you  may  fall  in  with  during  the 
cruise,  whether  island  or  field-ice. 

3d.  You  will  navigate  to  the  southward  and  eastward  until  you 
reach  the  western  side  of  Palmer’s  or  Graham’s  Land. 

4th.  It  is  believed  that  the  latter  part  of  the  summer  will  afford 
you  an  opportunity  of  penetrating  here  farther  south  than  has  yet 


412 


APPENDIX. 


been  done,  and  possibly  meet  an  extension  of  Palmer’s  Land,  more  to 
the  westward  :  if  you  should  succeed,  you  will  trace  it  to  the  east¬ 
ward,  and  return  by  the  southern  and  eastern  side  of  it,  to  this 
anchorage,  thus  circumnavigating  this  land,  unless  you  should  re¬ 
ceive  further  information  from  me. 

5th.  Herewith  you  will  receive  a  Dipping  and  Intensity  Needle, 
with  which  you  will  make  observations  on  any  floe  of  ice  that  may  be 
accessible. 

6th.  In  your  progress  to  the  eastward  from  Cook’s  Ne  Plus  Ultra, 
105°  W.,  you  will  endeavour  to  get  more  and  more  to  the  southward, 
and  to  pass  to  the  southward  of  the  two  small  islands  called  Peter  I. 
and  Alexander,  (the  farthest  land  south  discovered  by  the  Russians 
in  1821,)  and  then  fall  in  with  what  Briscoe  denominated  Graham’s 
or  Palmer’s  Land,  (its  proper  American  name.)  I  am  of  the  opinion 
that  it  extends  much  farther  to  the  southward  and  westward,  than 
where  Briscoe  saw  the  Adelaide  Mountains,  and  that  the  land 
stretches  or  trends  to  the  west.  This  will  be  a  very  important 
discovery,  and  the  lateness  of  the  season  is  very  advantageous  for  the 
exploration,  if  the  summer  should  have  proved  an  open  one.  My 
reason  for  believing  in  the  extension  of  this  land  is,  that  such  large 
quantities  of  ice-islands,  which  are  frequently  drifted  to  the  north  and 
west  of  Cape  Horn,  must  have  some  land  to  form  on,  and  we  are 
aware  that  all  the  ice  formed  about  the  South  Shetlands  goes  to  the 
eastward. 

7th.  You  must  endeavour  to  reach  the  southward  of  Peter  I.  and 
Alexander  Islands,  or  south  of  the  Russian  track. 

8th.  You  will  fill  up  the  skeleton  chart  as  you  progress,  and  treat 
the  main  ice  and  ice-islands  as  if  they  were  land,  by  inserting  them 
on  it,  which  will  be  an  important  addition  to  our  knowledge,  if  we 
only  obtain  the  line  of  ice  in  those  seas ;  it  does  not  appear  ever  to 
have  been  done  by  southern  navigators  accurately ;  had  it  been  so, 
our  task  would  have  been  more  easy. 

9th.  I  should  think  the  winds  from  the  west  to  the  east  will  be  so 
as  to  enable  you  to  choose  positions  to  shield  your  ship  under  the  lee 
of  the  icy  shore  (if  I  may  be  allowed  the  expression). 

10th.  In  the  event  of  your  reaching  the  main  land,  or  a  channel 
leading  to  it,  if  one  offers,  you  will  despatch  the  Flying-Fish,  with 
such  officers  as  you  may  think  fit,  to  make  the  recognizance  of  it,  if 
time  should  not  allow  a  full  survey. 

11th.  It  is  desirable  that  the  extent  and  circumference  of  any 


APPENDIX. 


413 


islands  which  you  may  fall  in  with  be  ascertained,  with  their  general 
character  and  productions,  if  any ;  specimens  of  rocks  and  sketches 
of  their  stratification  will,  if  possible,  be  taken.  The  islands  of  ice 
frequently  show  appearances  of  stratification,  with  earth  and  rocks 
attached  to  them.  Any  thing  gained  from  them  will  be  interesting 
and  valuable,  with  a  particular  notice  whether  the  ice  had  been  much 
worn  away  under  them. 

12th.  The  aurora  australis  has  not  been  often  seen ;  it  is  said  to 
have  been  seen  by  Captain  Cook  near  his  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  where  you 
will  commence.  You  will  notice  the  extent  and  height  of  the  ice, 
&c.,  and  sketch,  if  possible,  any  remarkable  refraction,  with  a  descrip¬ 
tion  which  will  render  it  clear. 

13th.  You  will  note  the  observations  of  the  thermometer  in  the  sun 
and  shade ;  also  the  temperature  of  the  sea  at  such  depths  as  you  may 
judge  best,  with  the  sounding  apparatus  sent  you. 

14th.  After  having  run  to  Palmer’s  Land,  and  not  finding  an 
opening  or  land,  you  will  return  to  this  harbour  direct,  where  you 
will  find  this  ship;  and  you  will  despatch  the  Flying-Fish  to  the 
harbour  of  Deception  Island  for  information  from  me,  which  will, 
if  possible,  be  left  in  a  bottle  enclosed  in  a  heap  of  stones  (a  sailor’s 
grave),  on  the  right-hand  side  of  that  harbour,  the  entrance  being  at 
the  east;  and  you  will  direct  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  Flying-Fish 
to  remain  there,  if  he  should  hear  nothing  of  me,  as  long  as  possible, 
even  until  the  1st  of  May,  when  she  will  proceed  with  all  despatch  to 
this  port. 

15th.  Should  you  be  shut  up  or  detained  by  ice,  which,  of  course, 
you  will  avoid  by  all  possible  means,  you  will,  if  possible,  communi¬ 
cate  to  me  at  Deception  Island,  as  in  case  you  are  out  of  time,  you 
may  rely  on  my  sending  there  to  hear  from  you,  and  afford  any  aid, 
as  soon  as  the  season  will  permit,  to  which  place  your  boats  or  the 
tender  can  be  navigated.  It  is  my  present  intention,  after  surveying 
the  southeast  shore  of  Palmer’s  Land,  to  touch  at  Deception  Island  on 
my  return  north,  and  obtain  or  leave  information  as  to  our  progress, 
in  a  bottle,  as  above  described. 

16th.  You  will,  of  course,  give  the  most  particular  attention  to  the 
health  and  comfort  of  the  officers  and  crews  of  your  command,  and 
the  most  economical  expenditure  of  stores  and  provisions,  of  which 
you  have  as  much  as  you  can  stow,  including  a  large  supply  of 
antiscorbutics,  preserved  meats,  &c. 

104 


VOL.  I. 


414 


APPENDIX. 


17th.  Should  it,  in  your  opinion,  be  found  at  any  time  during  the 
cruise  impracticable  to  carry  into  effect  these  orders,  and  you  should 
be  of  opinion  also  that  a  further  attempt  south,  during  the  present 
season,  would  be  unavailing,  owing  to  bad  weather  or  obstructions, 
you  will,  on  arriving  at  such  conclusions,  proceed  direct  to  Valparaiso, 
and  await  further  orders,  making  all  necessary  arrangements  there  in 
regard  to  a  supply  of  provisions,  &c.,  for  the  squadron.  In  such  an 
event,  you  will  immediately  despatch  the  Flying-Fish  to  this  anchor¬ 
age  for  further  orders,  which,  if  we  have  left,  will  be  found  in  a  pile 
of  stones  on  the  summit  of  Burnt  Island,  near  the  tent  and  lighthouse; 
in  the  absence  of  which,  however,  she  will  proceed  to  Valparaiso  for 
further  orders. 

In  conclusion,  I  cannot  express  to  you  how  much  I  feel  for  the 
safety  of  yourself,  officers,  and  crews,  on  this  first  exploration  you  are 
about  to  make,  and  how  deep  an  interest  and  anxiety  I  shall  feel  for 
you ;  that  you.  may  meet  with  all  the  success  I  wish  for,  and  that  we 
may  rendezvous  again,  to  carry  out  this  great  national  enterprise,  is 
the  fervent  prayer  of  your  attached  friend, 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Captain  Wm.  L.  Hudson, 

Peacock. 


XXVI. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 
February  22d,  1839. 

Sir, 

The  Sea-Gull,  placed  under  your  charge,  will  be  attached  to  the 
Porpoise.  I  cannot  impress  upon  you  too  strongly  the  necessity  of 
keeping  company,  as  the  safety  of  the  crews  of  both  vessels  may 
otherwise  be  hazarded ;  you  will,  therefore,  use  every  means  in  your 
power  to  prevent  a  separation. 

1st.  You  will  keep  a  strict  daily  journal  of  every  occurrence 
relative  to  your  co-operations  with  the  Porpoise. 

2d.  A  skeleton  chart  will  be  furnished  you,  comprising  the  lati¬ 
tudes  and  longitudes  in  which  you  will  cruise,  upon  which  chart  an 
accurate  track  will  be  laid  down  of  her  route ;  also  the  position  of  all 


APPENDIX. 


415 


land,  islands  of  ice,  &c.,  which  may  be  observed.  Astronomical 
bearings,  when  the  weather  will  permit,  will  be  preferable  for  this 
purpose. 

3d.  You  will  enter  also  in  your  journal,  the  variation  of  the 
compass,  morning  and  evening;  sketches  of  refraction,  and  minute 
observations  of  all  phenomena  that  may  be  seen ;  also,  sketches  of 
stratifications  of  ice,  temperature  of  the  water  on  the  weather  and 
lee  sides  of  ice-islands,  &c. ;  the  form  and  direction  of  currents,  and 
the  apparent  formation  of  the  ice ;  also  the  collection  and  preservation 
of  any  specimens  of  earth  or  stones  that  may  be  discovered  on  the 
ice,  and  the  appearance  of  any  halos,  auroras  australis,  &c. 

4th.  In  the  event  of  parting  company,  you  will  rendezvous,  first, 
for  the  Porpoise,  off  Cape  Melville,  George’s  Island,  in  latitude 
61°  55'  S.,  longitude  58°  W.,  to  remain  two  days ;  and,  secondly,  at 
and  near  the  coast  of  the  east  side  of  Palmer’s  Land.  You  will,  in 
such  a  case  of  separation,  avoid  by  all  possible  means  being  shut  up 
in  the  ice,  and  will,  on  the  probability  of  such  an  event,  proceed  at 
once  to  Deception  Island,  which  harbour  you  will  if  possible  enter, 
and  deposit  in  a  grave  formed  of  stones,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
entrance  of  the  harbour,  information  relative  to  your  parting  com¬ 
pany,  &c. ;  and  you  will  remain  there  for  orders  as  long  as  your 
safety  will  allow,  and  while  there  you  will  hunt  for  and  examine  a 
self-registering  thermometer,  left  there  some  time  since  on  the  point 
forming  the  cove. 

5th.  You  will  give  particular  attention  to  the  health  and  comfort  of 
all  on  board,  and  you  have  an  ample  supply  of  provisions,  clothing, 
preserved  meats,  antiscorbutics,  &c. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  cruise, 

I  am,  &c., 

Chakles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieutenant  R.  E.  Johnson, 

In  charge  of  Tender  Sea -  G  idl. 


416 


APPENDIX. 


XXVII. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 
February  22d,  1839. 

Sir, 

The  tender  Flying-Fish,  placed  under  your  charge,  will  be  attached 
to  the  Peacock,  and  under  the  orders  of  Captain  Hudson,  during  the 
present  cruise. 

1st.  I  cannot  impress  too  strongly  on  your  mind  the  necessity  of 
avoiding,  under  any  circumstances,  parting  company  with  the  Pea¬ 
cock,  as  the  safety  of  all  on  board  that  vessel  may  be  hazarded 
thereby ;  every  means  will  be  taken  therefore  to  prevent  a  separation. 

2d.  You  will  keep  a  strict  daily  journal  of  every  occurrence 
relative  to  your  co-operations  with  that  vessel. 

3d.  A  skeleton  chart  is  furnished  you,  comprising  the  latitudes  and 
longitudes  in  which  you  will  cruise,  and  on  which  chart  an  accurate 
track  must  be  laid  down  of  the  route,  daily  ;  also,  the  positions  of  all 
lands,  islands  of  ice,  &c.,  which  may  be  observed.  Astronomical 
bearings,  when  the  weather  will  permit,  are  preferable  for  this 
purpose. 

4th.  You  will  also  enter  on  your  journal,  the  variation  of  the 
compass,  morning  and  evening ;  sketches  of  refractions,  and  minute 
observations  of  all  phenomena  that  may  be  seen ;  also,  sketches  of  the 
stratification  of  ice,  temperature  of  the  water  on  the  weather  and  lee 
sides  of  the  islands,  the  form  and  direction  of  currents,  and  the 
apparent  formation  of  the  ice ;  also,  the  collection  and  preservation  of 
any  stones,  specimens  of  earth,  &c.,  that  may  be  discovered  on  the 
ice,  and  the  appearance  of  any  halos,  auroras  australis,  &c. 

5th.  If  you  should  unfortunately  be  separated  from  the  Peacock, 
the  following  rendezvous  are  fixed  by  Captain  Hudson,  for  meeting 
again,  if  possible : 

1st.  Latitude  62°  S.,  longitude  80°  W.,  to  wait  half  a  day. 


2d. 

tc 

64° 

U 

CD 

O 

o 

tc 

one 

U 

3d. 

u 

65° 

£6 

100° 

u 

£( 

U 

4th. 

u 

66° 

££ 

105° 

t£ 

££ 

u 

And  you  will  seek  the  nearest  to  the  above  named,  coasting  along 


APPENDIX. 


417 


the  ice  as  near  as  possible,  and  locating  your  position  on  your 
skeleton  chart. 

6th.  The  Peacock  will  pursue  the  route  laid  down  in  the  orders  to 
Captain  Hudson,  of  which  the  following  is  an  extract,  and  will  give 
you  an  idea  of  the  intended  cruise,  viz. : 

“  On  sailing  from  here  you  will  proceed  to  longitude  105°  W., 
(Cook’s  Ne  Plus  Ultra,)  from  thence  extend  your  researches  as  far 
to  the  southward  and  eastward  as  you  can  reach,  without  rendering 
yourself  liable  to  be  closed  in  by  the  ice. 

“You  will  then  navigate  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  until  you 
reach  the  western  side  of  Palmer’s  or  Graham’s  Land  as  it  is  called  on 
the  charts. 

“  It  is  believed  that  the  latter  part  of  the  season  will  afford  you  an 
opportunity  of  penetrating  here  further  south  than  has  yet  been  done, 
and  possibly  meet  an  extension  of  Palmer’s  Land,  more  to  the  west¬ 
ward  ;  if  you  should  succeed,  you  will  trace  it  to  the  eastward,  and 
return  by  the  southward  and  eastward  side  of  it  to  this  anchorage, 
(thus  circumnavigating  this  land)  unless  you  should  receive  any 
information  from  me  previously. 

“In  your  progress  from  Cook’s  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  of  longitude  105° 
W.,  you  will  endeavour  to  get  more  and  more  to  the  southward,  if 
possible,  and  reach  to  the  southward  of  the  small  islands  of  Peter  I., 
and  Alexander,  the  farthest  land  south  discovered  by  the  Russians  in 
1821,  and  fall  in  with  what  Briscoe  has  denominated  Graham’s  or 
Palmer’s  Land,  (its  proper  American  name.)  I  am  of  the  opinion 
that  it  extends  much  farther  to  the  southward  and  westward  than 
where  Briscoe  saw  the  Adelaide  Mountains. 

“  Your  endeavours  must  be  to  get  to  the  south  of  Peter  I.,  and 
Alexander  Islands,  or  south  of  the  Russian  track.” 

7th.  In  the  event  of  your  separating  from  the  Peacock,  and  not 
joining  her  again,  which,  however,  is  not  probable,  you  will  coast 
along  the  ice,  agreeably  to  directions,  as  far  as  it  may  be  prudent  and 
safe,  and  proceed  to  Deception  Island  for  information  in  regard  to  us, 
which  if  there,  will  be  found  in  a  sailor’s  grave  at  the  north  of  the 
entrance  of  the  harbour,  where  you  will  deposit  a  communication ; 
and  in  the  absence  of  other  orders,  you  will  proceed  to  this  anchorage, 
where  you  will  find  me,  or  orders,  on  the  summit  of  Burnt  Island,  at 
the  flagstaff;  in  the  absence  of  which,  or  any  of  the  squadron,  you 
will  proceed  direct  to  Valparaiso. 

8th.  You  will  attend  particularly  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  all 

105 


VOL.  I. 


418 


APPENDIX. 


on  board ;  yon  have  ten  months’  provisions  on  board  for  the  crew,  and 
an  ample  supply  of  warm  clothing,  antiscorbutics,  preserved  meats, 
&c.,  in  the  event  of  detention,  which  will  be  expended  in  the  most 
judicious  manner. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  cruise, 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

P.  S.  You  will,  if  possible,  obtain  from  Deception  Island  a  self¬ 
registering  thermometer,  said  to  have  been  left  some  time  since  on 
the  point  of  the  cove. 

To  Lieut.  Wm.  L.  Walker, 

In  charge  of  Tender  Flying-Fish. 


X  X  Y  1 1 1. 

GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS,  FOR  BOAT  DUTY,  SURVEYING,  ETC. 

Immediately  after  anchoring  in  position,  you  will  hoist  your  dis¬ 
tinguishing  pennant,  keeping  it  up  till  every  thing  is  done,  such  as, 
distance  measured,  astronomical  bearings  taken  on  one  of  the  vessels, 
the  angle  between  her  and  the  others;  also,  angles  on  any  thing 
remarkable  on  shore,  such  as  headlands,  flag  or  signal  staves,  huts, 
trees,  &c.  When  ready  to  change  your  position,  haul  down  your 
distinguishing  pennant,  and  when  ready  to  measure  the  base  or  dis¬ 
tance  by  sound,  which  is  the  first  thing  to  be  done  after  you  are  in 
position,  hoist  your  ensign  at  the  fore;  as  soon  as  all  the  vessels  have 
answered,  you  will  dip  it  and  fire  in  a  few  seconds,  run  up  the  ensign 
again,  and  repeat  firing  three  times. 

To  communicate  the  elapsed  time  to  this  vessel,  hoist  the  distin¬ 
guishing  pennant  of  the  vessel  whose  distance  is  to  be  shown,  and 
with  it  the  “  number”  indicating  the  number  of  seconds ;  the  quarter, 
half,  or  three-quarters,  may  be  designated  by  hoisting  the  first,  second, 
and  third  repeaters  under  all,  thus — the  third  repeater  under  No. 
18,  would  signify  eighteen  and  three-quarter  seconds  of  time.  It  will 
be  seen,  therefore,  that  when  it  is  necessary  to  repeat  a  number,  one 
of  a  similar  denomination  must  be  used,  as  another  signification  is 
given  to  the  repeaters. 


APPENDIX. 


419 


The  astronomical  bearings  may  be  communicated  in  the  following 
manner,  with  the  distinguishing  pennant  of  the  vessel  whose  bearing 
is  to  be  shown :  hoist  the  “number”  indicating  the  degrees  with  the 
cornet  above,  if  the  bearing  be  from  the  north,  but  under,  if  from  the 
south ;  then  the  corresponding  numbers  for  the  minutes  and  seconds ; 
with  the  preparatory  pennant,  if  to  the  east,  or  without  it,  if  to  the 
west,  thus :  the  cornet  under  56,  would  signify  S.  56° ;  then  04-26, 
would  correspond,  04'  and  26"  W.,  or,  the  whole  being  put  together, 
would  stand,  S.  56°,  04'  26"  W. 

Each  officer,  before  leaving  the  ship,  will  see  that  his  boat  is  fur¬ 
nished  with  water  and  provisions  for  three  days  for  her  crew ;  that 
her  oars,  spars,  and  sails  are  in  good  order,  compass,  sextant,  spy¬ 
glass,  log-line  and  current-log,  leads  and  lines,  grapnel  and  lines 
for  mooring,  materials  for  striking  a  light,  lantern,  and  field-book; 
also,  that  their  watches  have  been  set  to  ship’s  time. 

The  boats  will  be  divided  into  parties  or  divisions ;  each  division 
will  be  under  the  orders  of  an  officer  appointed  to  take  the  charge, 
who  will  receive  the  general  instructions  for  the  day,  and  who  will 
wear  their  boat  ensigns  as  a  distinguishing  mark. 

The  formula  of  the  field-books  will  be  understood  as  follows  : 

At  the  head  of  each  page  the  name  of  the  boat  and  the  date  will  be  inserted. 

In  column  1st.  The  time  of  taking  the  angles. 

2d.  The  soundings,  and  their  nature. 

3d.  The  soundings  reduced. 

4th.  The  name  of  the  object  and  the  angle  to  the  left  of  the  observer. 

5th.  The  name  of  the  centre  objects  only,  unless  there  be  three  angles 
measured ;  then,  the  centre  angle  will  be  inserted  with  both 
the  centre  objects. 

6th.  The  name  of  the  object  and  the  angle  to  the  right  of  the  observer. 


Officers  are  expected  to  note  any  observations  on  the  current, 
soundings,  &c.,  that  they  may  deem  necessary  to  make  the  results 
less  liable  to  misconstruction  and  obviate  explanation. 

When  a  line  of  soundings  extends  to,  or  commences  at  the  shore, 
the  point  must  be  accurately  fixed  by  at  least  three  angles,  and  the 
shore  sketched  in  on  both  sides  for  some  hundred  yards,  or  to  some 
well-defined  object. 

The  daily  orders  must  be  carried  into  strict  execution ;  and  if  an 
officer  does  not  clearly  understand  or  perceives  any  difficulty  therein, 
he  will  so  state  before  leaving  the  vessel. 


420 


APPENDIX. 


If  a  boat  should  require  assistance,  she  will  hoist  the  blue  flag,  or 
No.  5. 

After  returning  on  board,  each  officer  will  furnish  his  commanding 
officer  with  a  copy  of  his  day’s  work,  with  the  soundings  reduced  to 
the  standard ;  a  diagram  of  his  boat’s  track  ;  and,  if  co-operating  with 
other  boats,  their  relative  positions  at  each  anchorage :  it  being  under¬ 
stood  in  the  diagrams,  that  the  top  of  the  paper  will  always  represent 
the  north. 

In  case  of  night  coming  on,  the  vessels  will,  if  their  boats  have  not 
joined  them  fire  a  gun  and  then  a  rocket, — the  first  to  call  attention, 
the  latter  to  give  the  direction ;  the  rocket  will  be  repeated  every 
fifteen  minutes,  and  the  gun  every  half  hour ;  keeping  up  their  night 
distinguishing  signals  till  their  respective  boats  have  returned ;  and 
when  any  boat  joins  them,  other  than  their  own,  to  remain  the  night, 
from  stress  of  weather,  fog,  or  any  other  cause,  the  vessel  will  fire 
two  guns  in  quick  succession. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition . 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

February  22d,  1839. 


XXIX. 

INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  VINCENNES. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  Feb.  23d,  1839. 

Lieutenant  Craven  will  enforce  strictly  the  regulations  of  the 
ship. 

The  following  officers  are  left  on  board  the  ship  for  duty,  viz., 
Lieutenant  Carr;  Lieutenant  Alden;  Purser  Waldron;  Chaplain 
Elliott;  Acting-Master  North;  Passed  Midshipmen  Totten,  Rey¬ 
nolds,  May,  and  Sandford;  Acting  Midshipmen  Clemson,  Thompson, 
Clarke,  and  Elliott ;  and  the  four  forward  officers. 

1st.  Lieutenant  Craven  will  have  the  men  who  have  been  trans¬ 
ferred  temporarily  to  this  ship,  stationed  and  quartered  at  the  guns, 
dividing  the  officers  in  such  divisions  that  they  may  be  regularly 
exercised  agreeably  to  the  rules  and  regulations. 


APPENDIX. 


421 


2d.  Lieutenant  Craven  will  have  all  the  sails,  boats,  rigging,  and 
equipments  of  every  description,  overhauled  and  repaired. 

3d.  The  comfort  and  health  of  the  crew  will  claim  his  particular 
attention,  the  regularity  of  their  meals,  and  the  avoiding  unnecessary 
exposure  to  the  cold,  &c. 

4th.  The  baking  of  bread,  it  is  desirable  should  be  carried  into 
operation,  in  order  that  as  small  a  quantity  of  ship’s  bread  should  be 
used  as  possible.  For  this  purpose,  the  oven  is  to  be  erected  on  the 
gun-deck,  and  which  it  is  anticipated  by  constant  use  will  be  suffi¬ 
cient  for  this  purpose ;  if,  however,  from  any  defect,  it  should  prove 
otherwise,  recourse  must  be  had  to  serving  out  flour  in  lieu  of  ship’s 
bread. 

5th.  Every  opportunity  must  be  taken  advantage  of  to  supply  the 
crew  with  fish,  wild  celery,  &c.,  and  a  proportion  suffered  to  visit  the 
shore  when  the  work  and  weather  will  permit,  who  must  return  in 
proper  season,  (early  in  the  afternoon,  by  supper  time,)  on  board. 

6th.  The  sheet  cables  will  be  kept  constantly  bent,  and  an  anchor- 
watch  duly  observed,  night  and  day ;  the  three  passed  midshipmen 
and  Mr.  North,  will  keep  the  watches  regularly;  and  the  deck  is 
never  to  be  left  without  one  of  them,  and  a  midshipman. 

7th.  When  his  duties  will  permit,  he  will  employ  his  time,  and 
that  of  the  crew,  in  dredging  and  fishing,  and  all  specimens  will  be 
carefully  preserved,  and  drawings  made  of  them. 

8th.  He  will  give  all  the  assistance  and  afford  every  facility  in  his 
power,  to  aid  the  duties  confided  to  Lieutenants  Carr,  and  Alden. 

Lieutenant  Carr  will  attend  to  the  astronomical  and  other  observa.- 
tions  (including  tides)  on  shore,  in  which  he  will  be  assisted  by  Dr. 
Fox  and  Chaplain  Elliott,  so  far  as  the  former’s  duties  will  permit  for 
this  purpose.  The  observatory-house  is  to  be  set  up  on  shore,  and 
other  arrangements  made  suitable  for  the  accommodations  of  them 
and  ten  men,  with  a  boat :  this  position  will  be  in  what  is  called  F orge 
Cove,  on  the  weather  side,  near  the  anchorage  of  this  ship. 

Lieutenant  Alden  is  charged  with  the  survey  and  examination  of 
the  northern  side  of  Hermit  Islands,  and  the  passages  between  them 
and  Terra  del  Fuego,  including  Goree  Road,  and  the  two  small 
islands  between  the  two.  All  kelp  that  he  may  discover  is  to  be 
examined;  also  the  anchorage  under  Lenox  and  New  Islands;  and 
to  make  a  careful  examination  of  all  other  places  that  may  seem  to 
offer  security  for  vessels  from  the  prevailing  winds ;  making  notes 
and  taking  bearings  that  may  serve  for  directions  for  vessels  seeking 

106 


VOL.  I. 


422 


APPENDIX. 


shelter.  Also  the  coast  between  False  Cape  Horn  and  Weddell  Cape, 
which  is  to  the  westward  of  this  harbour,  being  the  parts  of  this  coast 
that  have  not  been  sufficiently  examined  by  Captain  King. 

He  will  be  accompanied  by  a  passed  midshipman  on  this  duty  :  the 
launch  is  to  be  fitted  with  her  deck,  sails,  &c.,  with  a  crew  of  ten 
men,  and  provisions,  among  which  are  included  preserved  meats, 
&c.,  for  twenty  days,  and  a  small  whale-boat  (the  Fox),  or  another,  if 
deemed  more  suitable,  a  tent,  and  every  other  convenience  that  he 
may  deem  requisite  to  make  the  service  efficient  and  comfortable  to 
the  party.  He  will  proceed  on  this  duty  as  soon  after  my  departure 
as  his  preparations  and  the  weather  will  permit ;  and  great  hopes  are 
entertained  that  he  will  be  enabled  to  complete  these  arduous  and 
important  duties  before  my  return.  This  service  is  considered  a 
hazardous  one,  and  he  will  use  every  endeavour  to  avoid  risking 
himself,  men,  and  boats,  as  in  the  event  of  any  loss  of  the  latter, 
much  detention  would  result  to  the  after  operations  of  the  Expedition. 

It  is  hoped  that  Lieutenant  Alden  will  be  enabled,  prior  to  this 
duty  being  undertaken,  to  finish  the  chart  of  the  Rio  Negro. 

Acting  Master  North  will  assist  Lieutenant  Carr  in  the  care  and 
attention  to  the  chronometers,  their  rate,  observations,  &c. 

It  is  expected  that  all  passed  midshipmen,  and  midshipmen,  will 
exert  themselves  in  carrying  out  the  various  and  important  duties 
confided  to  them  at  this  anchorage. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


XXX. 


U.  S  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 
February  23d,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will  receive  on  board  the  U.  S.  Ship  Relief,  under  your 
command,  the  scientific  gentlemen,  who  have  been  transferred  from 
this  ship  and  the  Peacock,  to  the  Relief,  for  scientific  duty  during 
the  present  cruise,  and  you  will  afford  them  every  possible  facility 
and  accommodations  to  enable  them  to  make  such  observations  and 
collections  as  may  be  in  their  power. 

1st.  You  will  proceed  without  delay  to  the  Straits  of  Magellan, 


APPENDIX. 


423 


entering  bj  the  west  through  Brecknock  Passage,  Cockburn’s  Chan¬ 
nel,  and  Magdalene  Sound. 

2d.  Captain  King’s  chart  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan  may  be  de¬ 
pended  on  for  all  requisite  information ;  his  book  of  directions  will 
also  give  you  a  full  knowledge  of  the  tides,  currents,  anchorages,  &c. 
I  would  recommend  its  attentive  examination. 

3d.  You  will  keep  full  and  complete  journals  of  all  your  observa¬ 
tions  as  heretofore,  in  regard  to  the  soundings,  temperature,  &c. 

4th.  You  will  on  anchoring  set  up  tide-staves,  and  enter  all  ob¬ 
servations  agreeably  to  our  formula;  and  you  will  continue  your 
meteorological  journal  hourly. 

5th.  Should  you  experience  any  gales  or  storms,  you  will  note 
their  progress,  from  the  commencement  to  the  end,  with  their  ap¬ 
pearance,  &c. ;  and  any  occurrence  of  interest  will  be  immediately 
noted  in  your  journal. 

6th.  You  will  also  explore  and  survey  Useless  Bay  in  the  Straits 
of  Magellan,  and  connect  your  observations,  &c.,  with  Captain  King’s 
chart;  and  you  will  stop  at  Port  Famine,  on  your  way  there  and 
back,  and  such,  other  safe  harbours  as  may  appear  to  offer  advantages 
for  scientific  observations  and  collections ;  and  you  will  return  to  this 
anchorage  by  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  on  or  before  the  15th  of  April 
next,  if  possible,  where  you  will  find  me  or  orders  on  the  summit  of 
Burnt  Island ;  in  the  absence  of  which  you  will  proceed  direct  to 
Valparaiso. 

7th.  The  north  side  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan  affords  at  all  times 
good  anchorage ;  you  will  keep  it  close  on  board. 

8th.  The  period  of  your  absence  must  not  exceed  fifty  days,  if  it 
can  be  avoided ;  during  which  time  I  have  no  doubt  all  on  board  will 
exert  themselves  in  making  the  best  possible  use  of  the  short  space  of 
time  allowed. 

9th.  You  will  avoid  being  blown  off  to  the  eastward,  as  in  such 
event  the  Expedition  will  suffer. 

10th.  Should  any  accident  happen  to  the  Relief,  you  will  despatch 
without  delay  a  boat  to  this  anchorage,  under  charge  of  an  officer, 
through  the  route  you  are  to  enter,  pursuing  thence  Whale-Boat 
and  Darwin  Sounds,  through  the  Beagle  Channel,  as  far  as  the 
passage  of  Host,  and  Navarin  Islands,  thence  into  Nassau  Bay  to 
Orange  Harbour. 

11th.  Mr.  Percival  has  been  ordered  to  the  Relief  as  pilot;  he  has 
been  in  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  and  will  afford  you  all  the  aid  in  his 
power. 


424 


APPENDIX. 


You  will  give  particular  attention  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  all 
under  your  command. 

Wishing  you  a  safe  and  successful  cruise, 

I  am,  &c., 


Lieut.  Com.  A.  K.  Long, 


Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Ship  Relief. 


XXXI. 


U.  S.  Ship  Peacock, 

At  Sea,  lat.  60°  S.,  long.  84°  W., 
April  1st,  1839. 

Sir, 

After  separating  from  you  in  Orange  Bay,  on  the  25th  of  February, 
I  proceeded  with  the  tender  Flying-Fish,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  Walker,  to  carry  out  your  instructions,  in  making  a 
recognizance  south.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  26th,  a  few  miles  to 
the  westward  of  the  islands  of  Diego  Bamieres,  we  encountered  a 
gale,  in  which  we  lay-to  forty  hours,  in  the  course  of  which  we 
parted  from  our  little  consort,  although  we  had  observed  all  the 
precautions  of  firing  guns,  burning  blue-lights,  &c. ;  after  waiting 
in  vain  fourteen  hours,  with  the  hope  of  again  meeting  her,  we 
resumed  our  course’  for  the  first  rendezvous  I  had  appointed  with 
Lieutenant  W alker  in  the  event  of  separation ;  that,  as  well  as  some 
of  the  others,  we  were  unable  to  reach,  from  a  succession  of  westerly 
gales  and  boisterous  weather.  To  have  persevered  in  working  up 
for  them  would  have  consumed  the  little  time  we  could  yet  hope  for 
in  the  advanced  state  of  the  season,  for  our  further  progress  south. 

Without  troubling  you  with  a  more  minute  detail  of  occurrences, 
suffice  it  to  say,  that  on  the  11th  of  March,  we  fell  in  with  the  first 
icebergs,  in  the  latitude  of  63°  30'  S.,  and  longitude  of  80°  W.,  after 
which  time  they  were  our  constant  companions  (and  on  more  than 
one  occasion  very  troublesome  ones)  until  we  reached  the  latitude  of 
68°  08'  S.,  and  longitude  of  95°  44'  W.,  where,  to  my  great  joy,  we 
fell  in  with  the  Flying-Fish,  and  learned  from  Lieutenant  Walker 
that  he  had  passed  near  most  of  the  appointed  rendezvous,  and 
wmrked  down  from  105°  W.,  until  he  reached  about  70°  S.,  that 


APPENDIX. 


425 


the  whole  surface  of  the  ocean  in  the  direction  of  south  and  west 
presented  a  perfect  and  impassable  barrier  of  ice ;  that  he  had  been 
completely  frozen  in  for  a  short  time  on  the  23d,  and  the  ice  forming 
rapidly  around  him,  when,  fortunately,  a  breeze  of  wind  rescued  him 
from  his  perilous  situation.  When  we  fell  in  with  him,  he  was 
endeavouring  to  push  his  way  north. 

From  the  time  of  our  first  falling  in  with  icebergs,  we  had  been 
daily  passing  great  numbers  (as  will  be  shown  by  the  chart),  and 
encountered  on  the  17th  and  part  of  the  18th,  the  heaviest  gale  and 
sea  we  have  experienced  since  we  left  the  United  States ;  the  ther¬ 
mometer  in  the  air  at  that  time  standing  at  21°  of  Fahrenheit,  and 
the  water  at  28° ;  the  ship  completely  coated  with  ice,  every  spray 
thrown  over  her  freezing ;  and  about  her  bows  and  head  fairly  packed 
with  it.  From  the  19th  to  the  25th,  we  were  without  a  sight  of  the 
sun  or  sky,  surrounded  by  ice  and  icebergs,  within  the  most  neigh¬ 
bourly  distance.  During  a  lift  of  the  fog,  for  a  few  moments  only,  on 
the  morning  of  the  22d,  and  by  the  aid  of  an  ice-blink,  we  discovered 
an  extended  range  of  icebergs  and  field-ice  in  mass,  presenting  a 
perfect  barrier  to  our  further  progress  south  in  that  direction;  and 
so  completely  were  we  hemmed  in  by  icebergs  on  that  occasion,  that 
I  was  compelled  to  carry  all  the  canvass  on  the  ship  that  she  would 
bear,  and  work  her  out  into  some  more  open  position,  through  a  fog 
so  dense  as  to  limit  our  view  to  two  or  three  times  the  length  of  the 
ship.  In  doing  this,  we  of  course  kept  well  prepared,  as  the  dif¬ 
ferent  icebergs  popped  upon  us,  to  tack,  ware,  or  perform  such  other 
evolutions  as  were  found  necessary  to  avoid  them. 

On  the  evening  of  the  25th  of  March,  having  reached  the  latitude 
of  68°  08'  S.,  and  then  in  longitude  95°  44'  W.,  (we  had  been  as  far 
west  as  97°  58',)  with  the  air  at  29°,  and  the  water  30°  of  Fahrenheit, 
— having  had  it  much  lower,  as  far  back  as  the  17th,  and  to  the  north¬ 
ward  of  us,  where  the  ship  was  covered  with  ice,  as  well  as  some 
parts  of  her  gun-deck, — the  sun  having  crossed  the  equator,  and  made 
some  northern  declination;  the  shortness  of  the  days  here,  and  the 
little  time  allowed  for  running  the  ship  amongst  icebergs,  without 
much  hazard,  in  consequence  of  fogs  and  snow-storms ;  the  miserable 
condition  of  the  Peacock  for  a  winter’s  campaign,  in  the  event  of 
being  frozen  in ;  the  masses  of  ice  we  had  yet  to  pass  through  on 
our  return,  and  the  nature  of  my  instructions ; — these  circumstances, 
combined  with  the  report  of  Lieutenant  Walker,  pre monished  me  of 

107 


VOL.  I. 


426 


APPENDIX. 


the  necessity  of  turning  the  ship’s  head  towards  a  more  temperate 
climate. 

It  required  more  moral  courage  to  bring  my  mind  to  this  decision 
than  I  can  well  describe,  for  we  had  at  that  moment  less  ice  about  us 
than,  at  any  time  since  we  had  entered  its  neighbourhood ;  and  had  I 
followed  my  own  inclinations  merely,  and  allowed  the  promptings  of 
ambition,  or  love  of  praise,  to  have  governed  my  decisions,  regardless 
of  the  future  operations  of  the  Expedition,  the  lives  of  my  officers  and 
men,  and  the  trust  reposed  in  me  by  the  government,  I  should  indeed 
have  been  unworthy  of  the  trust  I  hold,  and  ever  felt  a  consciousness, 
that  whatever  more  might  have  been  achieved,  by  any  further  attempt 
south,  at  that  late  season,  would  have  been  acquired  only  by  reck¬ 
lessly  hazarding,  what  an  honest  conviction  of  duty  to  my  country, 
and  the  lives  intrusted  to  my  care,  most  decidedly  forbade. 

We  observed  the  aurora  australis  for  the  first  time,  on  the  night  of 
the  15th  of  March,  in  the  latitude  of  65°  24'  S.,  and  again  on  the 
16th,  18th,  and  26th.  On  the  night  of  the  18th,  an  arc  of  pale 
twilight  was  described  in  the  southern  quarter,  reaching  an  altitude 
of  twelve  degrees,  and  extending  from  southwest  to  southeast;  both 
above  and  below  the  arc  were  horizontal  sheets  of  dark  stratus  clouds, 
and  between  the  lower  strata  and  the  horizon,  a  suspended  bank  of 
mist  or  vapour,  having  all  the  appearance  of  a  shadow  cast  on  the 
sky;  rays  of  light  were  continually  being  thrown  out  along  the  whole 
extent  of  the  arc,  assuming  various  hues,  of  pale  red,  light  blue,  violet, 
and  straw-coloured  tints ;  radiating  towards  the  zenith,  and  reaching 
altitudes  of  from  twenty-five  to  forty-five  degrees.  These  exhibitions 
were  confined  to  that  particular  portion  of  the  horizon,  and  continued 
through  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  which  was  of  the  clearest  star¬ 
light, — the  Southern  Cross  garnishing  the  zenith,  and  the  Magellan 
clouds  showing  more  distinctly  than  I  had  ever  before  seen  them. 
The  weather,  during  our  cruise  south,  was  very  unfavourable  for 
witnessing  any  very  splendid  exhibitions  of  the  aurora ;  for,  with  few 
exceptions,  during  our  stay  in  the  Antarctic  Circle,  we  were  enveloped 
in  dense  fogs,  or  found  only  occasional  relief  from  such  falls  of  snow, 
as  may  fairly  be  classed  with  any  one  of  our  old-fashioned  snow- 
storms  at  home. 

The  greatest  dip  obtained,  from  the  experiments  with  Dolland’s 
needle,  was  78°;  and  in  the  latitude  of  68°  S.,  we  found  nearly  four 
points  easterly  variation. 


APPENDIX. 


427 


Mr.  Peale  lias  been  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  as  specimens,  some 
new  and  rare  Antarctic  birds. 

The  officers  and  crew  have  enjoyed  excellent  health,  been  prompt 
and  efficient  in  the  performance  of  their  respective  duties ;  and  for 
their  cordial  co-operation  and  aid  in  carrying  out  my  views,  deserve 
my  warmest  thanks,  and  I  beg  you  will  officially  say  so  in  your 
report  to  the  Honourable  Secretary  of  the  Navy.  I  herewith  enclose 
you  Lieutenant  Walker’s  report,  who  certainly  deserves,  with  his 
officers  and  men,  great  credit  for  his  perseverance. 

I  have  drawn  up  this  report  in  great  haste,  for  the  purpose  of 
despatching  the  Flying-Fish  to  you,  with  the  earliest  intelligence, 
and  shall  proceed  direct  to  Valparaiso,  to  carry  out  your  instructions 
there. 


Very  respectfully, 

(Signed)  Wm.  L.  Hudson, 

Commanding  U.  S.  Ship  Peacock. 


Captain  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish, 

At  Sea,  March  26th,  1839. 

Sir, 

In  obedience  to  your  order  of  to-day,  I  have  the  honour  to  report, 
that  after  separating  from  you  on  the  evening  of  the  26th  ultimo,  we 
hove-to  under  a  reefed  foresail  until  near  meridian  the  next  day, 
when  the  gale  moderating,  we  kept  off  the  wind,  with  the  hope  of 
again  falling  in  with  you ;  and  on  the  evening  of  the  next  day  made 
a  large  sail  to  the  northward  of  us,  standing  to  the  westward ;  we 
immediately  gave  chase,  but  on  coming  up,  made  her  out  to  be  a 
British  merchantman. 

We  then  stood  to  the  westward  for  our  first  rendezvous,  with  strong 
gales  from  about  south-southwest  to  west-by-north,  accompanied  by 
a  very  large  sea, — vessel  labouring  much,  decks  and  ways  becoming 
leaky,  but  sustained  no  material  damage  until  the  5th  March,  when 
our  jib  was  badly  split. 

On  the  7th  we  reached,  our  first  rendezvous,  and  whilst  lying-to 
there  in  a  heavy  gale,  our  decks  were  frequently  swept  by  the  sea, 
and  boats  crushed;  on  the  night  of  the  same,  the  sea  boarded  us, 
ripped  off  the  companion-slide,  washed  the  larboard  binnacle  from 


428 


APPENDIX. 


its  cleats  and  lashings  overboard,  injured  the  helmsman  and  look-out, 
and  half  filled  the  cabin. 

On  the  evening  of  the  next  day,  the  wind  moderating,  set  the 
reefed  mainsail,  but  the  vessel  sending  violently  in  the  old  sea,  parted 
the  reef-pendant,  and  tore  the  sail  badly ;  took  in  the  second  reef  and 
set  it. 

On  the  9th  of  March,  the  leakage  increasing  from  stress  of  weather, 
were  obliged  to  move  aft  all  the  bread,  replacing  its  weight  in  the 
bread-room  by  less  perishable  stores. 

On  the  11th,  in  the  morning,  found  our  new  jib  nearly  gone  from 
the  stay,  but  one  or  two  hanks  remaining ;  got  it  in,  and  afterwards 
bent  it  with  a  lacing ;  set  the  reefed  mainsail,  and  lowered  the  fore¬ 
sail  for  repairs ;  parted  again  the  reef-pendant  of  the  mainsail ;  took 
the  third  reef  in  it ;  finished  the  repairs  of  the  foresail,  set  it,  and 
furled  the  mainsail. 

We  were  now  up  with  our  second  rendezvous;  but  the  wind  grow¬ 
ing  fresh  and  the  sea  rising,  the  weather  thick,  with  a  heavy  fall  of 
snow,  and  feeling  confident  I  should  only  lose  time  by  heaving-to, 
stood  on  for  the  third  rendezvous. 

I  have  been  particular  in  stating  our  losses  in  sails,  as  it  was  one 
of  the  heavy  causes  of  our  not  reaching  the  rendezvous  sooner.  I 
had  determined  on  making  the  old  sails  last,  if  possible,  for  the  pas¬ 
sage  south,  reserving  the  better  suit  for  our  return,  when,  from  the 
lateness  of  the  season,  I  believed  we  should  encounter,  if  possible, 
more  tempestuous  weather ;  and  owing  to  the  close  stowage  of  the 
hold,  it  would  have  been  no  trifling  labour  under  the  circumstances 
to  have  broken  out  for  them ;  and,  furthermore,  the  old  suit  would 
necessarily  have  gone  below  wet,  to  increase  the  discomfort  of  the 
already  comfortless  condition  of  the  ’tween  decks. 

The  weather  continuing  much  the  same,  with  the  addition  of  rain, 
hail,  and  snow,  in  almost  every  watch  on  the  14th  and  15th,  we 
reached  the  third  rendezvous,  where  we  hove-to  for  nearly  twenty- 
four  hours. 

I  now  despaired  of  again  joining  you,  but  nevertheless  felt  it  my 
duty  to  run  over  the  track  laid  down  for  me,  and  on  the  18th  reached 
the  fourth  and  last  rendezvous,  having  passed  the  17th  in  the  vici¬ 
nity  ;  we  turned  our  head  south  for  Cook’s  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  the 
longitude  alone  being  specified  in  the  instructions — we  continued 
our  course  to  the  southward,  the  weather  at  times  very  thick,  ice- 
islands  becoming  numerous,  and  occasionally  passing  a  little  floating 


APPENDIX. 


429 


ice,  until  half  past  lip.  m.,  of  the  19th,  when  it  became  so  abundant, 
and  in  such  large  masses  around  us,  that  we  hove-to  until  daylight, 
frequently  filling  to  avoid  damage  from  it. 

At  four  o’clock  a.  m.,  we  again  stood  on,  but  were  soon  again  from  the 
same  causes  obliged  to  heave-to.  At  this  time  the  wTater  was  much 
discoloured,  and  much  of  the  ice  also  having  the  appearance  of  being 
but  lately  detached  from  land.  I  got  a  cast  of  the  lead  in  one  hun¬ 
dred  fathoms,  no  bottom.  The  same  discoloration  of  the  water  I 
afterwards  observed  always  in  the  vicinity  of  extensive  masses  of  ice; 
and  thought  it  might  possibly  be  produced  by  refraction.  At  eight 
o’clock  the  fog  suddenly  lifted,  and  to  the  amazement  of  all  on  deck, 
disclosed  to  us  a  wall  of  ice,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high,  extending 
east  and  west  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  spreading  out  into  a 
vast  and  seemingly  boundless  field  to  the  southward  ;  and  so  close 
under  the  lee  that  I  did  not  venture  to  ware,  but  after  getting  the 
foresail  on  her,  stood  on  to  the  westward,  luffing  and  bearing  away 
alternately  to  avoid  a  dangerous  contact  with  large  detached  masses, 
with  which  the  sea  was  filled  in  all  directions.  At  length  finding  a 
place  sufficiently  clear  to  put  the  helm  down,  we  worked  out,  with 
,  the  same  risk,  to  the  eastward,  and  at  nine  o’clock  had  reached  a 
comparatively  smooth  sea.  Our  latitude  at  this  time  about  67°  20'  S., 
lonoitude  105°  W.  Extremities  of  the  field,  as  far  as  visible,  bearing 
per  compass  east-by-nortli  and  southwest-half-west. 

It  was  formed  of  various  sized  masses,  of  all  shapes,  and  shapeless, 
and  of  several  colours,  a  dingy  white  (if  I  may  say  so)  prevailing. 
Continued  to  coast  along  the  ice  until  meridian,  when,  seeing  large 
ice  ahead,  and  weather  thick,  hauled  to  the  northward,  and  soon  ran 
into  blue  water.  At  2  p.  m.,  weather  clearing  a  little  and  sea  tolerably 
clear,  stood  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  and  at  3h  20m,  saw  the 
ice  in  unbroken  ranks,  bearing  from  west-by-south  to  southeast-by¬ 
south.  At  four,  the  weather  very  thick,  stood  to  the  northward 
and  eastward;  wmter  discoloured.  At  the  time  of  taking  the  above 
last  bearings,  our  view  not  extending  beyond  a  few  miles. 

At  six  o’clock,  weather  lighting  up,  discovered  field-ice  distant 
about  four  miles,  bearing  from  southeast  to  east  per  compass,  passing 
through  floating  ice.  At  eight,  lowered  the  foresail,  and  hove-to 
head  to  the  northward,  winds  moderate  with  thick  rainy  weather,  but 
finding  her  drifting  upon  the  ice  seen  before  dark,  filled  and  stood  to 
the  northward  and  eastward.  At  ten,  the  ice  thickening  around  us, 
tacked  to  the  westward.  From  eleven  to  midnight  saw  no  ice,  but 

108 


VOL.  I. 


430 


APPENDIX. 


hearing  a  crashing  sound  to  the  northward,  were  for  some  time  appre¬ 
hensive  that  we  might  be  embayed;  however,  having  nothing  to 
direct  us  in  the  gloom,  we  continued  under  easy  sail  our  course  to 
the  westward. 

March  21st,  latitude  at  meridian  observed,  68°  41'  S.,  longitude, 
chronometer,  103°  34'  W.  At  four  o’clock  this  morning  was  on  deck, 
and  as  soon  as  the  weather  cleared  a  little,  hauled  up  to  the  north¬ 
ward,  to  get  clear  of  the  field,  which  we  had  every  reason  to  suppose 
extended  far  to  the  eastward  and  westward  of  us.  After  attaining 
the  position  which  we  felt  confident  would  at  least  give  us  an  open 
sea  to  the  westward,  we  kept  off,  gradually  feeling  our  way  to  the 
eastward.  At  seven,  saw  the  ice  extending  in  broken  ranges  from 
south-by-east  to  northeast,  and  the  whitish,  glare  on  the  horizon, 
(which  our  experience  had  already  informed  us  was  an  unfailing 
indication  of  its  presence,)  extending  far  round  to  the  westward.  At 
eight  o’clock,  water  discoloured,  and  many  immense  ice-islands  around 
us,  which  accounted  for  the  broken  appearance  that  had  been  pre¬ 
sented  at  seven.  The  wind  being  fair,  and  being  able  to  see  a  safe 
distance,  (two  or  three  miles,)  I  ventured  to  give  her  southing, 
running  through  the  islands,  and  at  4  p.  m.  were  making  south  true, 
eight  knots :  this  we  continued  until  eight,  when  we  reefed  the  main¬ 
sail,  and  lowered  the  foresail,  with  the  intention  of  standing  on  during 
the  night,  flattering  ourselves  we  should  get  beyond  Cook,  before 
noon ;  but,  alas,  our  hopes  were  blasted  in  the  bud ;  it  soon  became  so 
thick  we  could  not  see  at  all ;  having  some  floating  ice  around  us,  and 
having  seen  the  unfailing  indication  of  ice  to  leeward,  before  dark, 
we  most  reluctantly  hauled  over  the  jib-sheet  and  hove-to ;  the  wind 
soon  freshened  to  a  gale,  with  a  rising  sea. 

March  22d,  latitude  at  meridian,  about  70°  S.,  longitude  101° 
16'  W.  From  meridian  to  four,  fresh  northwesterly  winds,  with 
rain,  the  weather  lighting  up  at  intervals,  showing  us  to  be  in  the 
midst  of  innumerable  ice-islands,  so  closely  packed  as  scarce  affording 
us  a  passage  between  them ;  though  still  lying-to,  we  were  obliged  to 
luff  and  bear  away  for  thirteen  of  them.  At  four,  making  short  tacks 
to  the  northward  and  westward, — islands,  field,  and  drift  ice,  in  every 
direction,  and  close  around  us. 

From  four  to  eight,  I  was  on  deck,  and  after  looking  round  upon 
the  goodly  company,  selected  the  icebergs  as  my  “  compagnons  de 
voyage;”  the  wind  was  still  fresh,  and  the  weather  misty.  I  stood  to 
the  northward  and  eastward,  and  when  in.  doubt,  hove-to,  to  wind- 


.APPENDIX. 


431 


ward  of  an  island,  and  drifted  down  in  its  wake ;  when  finding  a 
passage  clear,  would  again  fall  back  on  our  own  resources,  flat  sails 
and  a  pilot-boat’s  bottom. 

The  weather  grew  thicker  and  intensely  cold,  though  the  thermo¬ 
meter  did  not  fall  below  30°  ;  I  attributed  these  changes  to  the  ice  to 
windward,  and,  believing  we  were  getting  into  a  clear  sea,  I  stepped 
below  to  stick  my  toes  in  the  stove ;  I  had  not  been  below  certainly 
five  minutes,  when  the  look-out  called  to  me  that  the  fog  had  lifted, 
and  that  we  were  surrounded.  I  jumped  on  deck,  and  such  was  too 
truly  the  case  :  narrow  fields  of  ice,  with  narrow  passages  of  water 
between,  and  extending  longitudinally  in  a  direction  perpendicular  to 
the  wind,  formed  a  complete  circle  round  us,  stretching  in  all  direc¬ 
tions  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  beyond,  icebergs,  packed 
and  floating  ice.  I  did  not  know  at  first  how  I  should  proceed  ;  but, 
after  a  careful  look  round,  I  ran  over  to  the  weather  shore  of  the  pond, 
and  stood  along  it  in  search  of  a  passage,  that  I  could  not  find ;  but, 
observing  at  intervals  “sutures”  in  the  ice,  where  it  did  not  appear 
firmly  formed,  I  resolved  to  take  advantage  of  this,  and  if  possible, 
force  a  passage,  feeling  it  necessary,  at  all  hazards,  to  extricate  our¬ 
selves  as  soon  as  possible.  Having  the  wind  free,  I  gave  her  the  main- 
sheet,  and  manned  it  well,  and  having  got  about  six  knots  way  on 
her,  kept  close  to  the  ice,  and  when  at  the  proper  distance,  put  the 
helm  down,  hauled  the  main-sheet  forcibly  to  windward,  and  let  fly 
the  head-sheets ;  this  brought  her  round  suddenly,  before  she  had 
passed  through  sufficient  water  to  deaden  her  way  ;  the  ice  cracked, 
we  slipped  over,  or  brushed  through,  and  before  eight  o’clock 
I  had  got  into  a  tolerably  clear  sea.  The  weather  again  growing 
thick,  the  wind  freshening,  and  sea  getting  up,  fatigued  with  labour 
and  anxiety,  we  hove-to,  under  the  foresail  with  the  bonnet  off; 
and  I  believe  all  must  have  returned  thanks  to  Heaven  for  their 
deliverance. 

From  eight  to  meridian,  fresh  gales  and  weather  very  thick,  with 
innumerable  ice-islands,  which  we  frequently  passed  at  a  dangerous 
proximity,  owing  to  their  number,  and  our  limited  vision, — the  sea 
breaking  on  them  with  the  roar  of  thunder,  and  to  the  height  of 
eighty  to  one  hundred  feet ;  I  do  not  believe  a  ship  could  have  passed 
these  dangers;  frequently  we  felt  cramped  in  stays  or  in  waring. 
At  ten,  the  sea  tolerably  clear,  again  stood  to  the  southward  and  west¬ 
ward.  At  meridian,  obliged  to  haul  to  the  westward,  many  icebergs, 
and  floating  ice  in  large  masses  around  us.  At  4  p.  m.,  weather 


432 


APPENDIX. 


clearing  a  little,  discovered  a  field  ahead ;  wore  to  the  southward  and 
westward.  Until  midnight,  working  to  the  northward  and  westward, 
many  islands,  loose  tracts,  and  floating  ice  passing ;  weather  generally 
so  thick  as  not  to  be  able  to  see  two  hundred  feet.  From  eight  to 
midnight,  passed  twenty-five  islands.  At  10h  45m,  weather  clear  for 
a  short  time  ;  saw  the  ice  extending  from  southwest  to  northeast.  At 
midnight,  sea  clearer ;  sails  and  rigging  stiff  with  ice. 

March  23d,  latitude,  at  meridian,  about  69°  17'  S.,  longitude 
100°  30'  W.  This  day  the  weather  has  been  clearer  than  for  some 
time  past.  At  daylight,  intended  keeping  away  to  fix  position  of 
field-ice,  but  about  that  time  the  weather  became  very  thick ;  hove-to 
until  seven  o’clock,  when,  no  prospect  of  the  weather  clearing,  stood 
to  the  northward  and  eastward.  The  sea  now  became  tolerably  clear, 
yet  the  passage  of  floating  ice  and  icebergs  still  devolved  the  neces¬ 
sity  of  a  bright  look-out.  In  the  afternoon,  stood  to  the  southward 
and  eastward,  and  for  three  hours  observed  appearances  of  land ;  but 
at  3h  30m,  discovered  large  masses  of  ice,  and  numerous  icebergs. 
At  six,  the  ice  bore  from  south  to  east,  standing  to  the  northward  and 
eastward;  water  much  discoloured.  At  midnight,  the  southern 
horizon  brilliantly  illuminated  by  the  aurora  australis. 

March  24th,  latitude,  at  meridian,  about  69°  06'  S.,  longitude 
96°  50'  W.  From  four  to  eight  had  moderate  northwesterly  winds, 
with  snow ;  weather  hazy.  From  eight  to  meridian,  moderate  breezes, 
with  a  heavy  fall  of  snow ;  first  part  passed  many  icebergs,  and  large 
quantities  of  floating  ice.  At  10h  30m,  got  suddenly  into  large  fields 
of  packed  and  broken  ice,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  in 
all  directions,  and  which,  by  the  assistance  of  the  snow,  (which,  in 
the  clearer  spots,  laid  undisturbed  on  the  surface,)  appeared  to  be 
rapidly  becoming  solid ;  the  sea  was  cut  off  by  the  larger  masses  to 
windward,  and  to  add  to  our  anxiety  the  wind  appeared  declining : 
we  lost  no  time  in  forcing  out  to  windward,  as  on  the  former  occa¬ 
sion.  The  vessel  seeming  ill-constructed  for  such  rough  contusions, 
and  very  fearful  that  her  copper  would  be  cut  through,  we  cut  up  the 
boards  in  the  spare  cabin  berths  to  preserve  it ;  but  after  getting  into 
clearer  water,  the  sea  became  too  heavy,  and  while  within  the  field  I 
did  not  think  we  could  spare  the  time  to  get  them  on.  I  am  well 
convinced,  and  such  wTas  the  general  opinion  on  board,  that  within  a 
short  time  after  we  cleared  it,  it  became  a  firm  field  of  ice.  Having 
on  two  distinct  occasions  narrowly  escaped  being  closed  in  by  the 
ice,  our  want  of  fuel,  the  general  unfitness  of  the  vessel,  and  want 


APPENDIX. 


433 


of  preparations  for  such  an  emergency,  my  “Instructions”  called 
upon  me  most  imperiously  to  return ;  and  I  put  our  head  to  the 
northward,  determined  to  keep  it  so  until  we  should  change  our 
temperature;  which,  with  a  proper  ambition  to  get  beyond  previous 
navigators,  I  did  the  less  reluctantly,  as  I  felt  confident  the  season  for 
operations  in  these  latitudes  had  already  passed, — the  sun  being 
already  in  northern  declination,  and  little  assistance  to  be  expected 
from  the  moon  and  stars. 

On  the  25th  of  March  I  fell  in  with  you  again,  sir.  It  had  been 
my  intention  that  day,  at  noon,  to  stand  to  the  eastward,  and,  if  I 
found  the  sea  sufficiently  clear,  to  pass  to  the  southward  and  eastward 
of  the  island  of  Peter  I.,  in  quest  of  the  western  extremity  of  Palmer’s 
Land,  and  thence  to  execute  what  should  remain  unexecuted  of  my 
“  Instructions,”  with  which  you  are  well  acquainted. 

Fearful  of  an  early  separation  from  you,  in  the  thick  weather  now 
so  prevalent  in  these  latitudes,  I  have  hurriedly  drawn  up  this  report, 
which  I  trust  will  excuse  its  deficiency  in  minute  details,  for  which  I 
beg  leave  to  refer  you  to  my  journal  (which  I  shall  lose  no  time  in 
submitting  to  you),  and  to  the  log-book,  and  other  journals  of  the 
schooner. 

I  cannot  close,  sir,  without  expressing  my  entire  satisfaction  with 
the  conduct  of  the  crew  of  the  schooner;  they  have  now  been  wet 
for  thirty  days,  suffering  from  cold,  and  frequently  covered  with  ice 
and  snow;  indeed,  in  my  experience,  I  have  never  known  men  sub¬ 
jected  to  equal  hardships.  From  such  causes,  from  two  to  three  of 
the  number  have  generally  been  unfit  for  duty;  nevertheless,  the 
remainder  have  displayed  an  enthusiasm  for  the  service  in  which 
they  have  been  engaged,  and  have  performed  their  duties  with  a 
cheerfulness  and  alacrity  that,  if  equalled,  I  have  never  seen  sur¬ 
passed.  I  confidently  trust  that  you  will  so  represent  their  conduct 
to  the  commander-in-chief,  that  it  may  be  distinguished  by  a  public 
expression  of  his  approbation. 

In  conclusion,  sir,  I  must  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  to  the  skill 
and  experience  of  Mr.  Knox,  and  the  ready  attention  of  Mr.  Ham- 
mersly,  from  whom  I  have  received  the  most  hearty  co-operation. 

Very  respectfully,  yours,  &c., 

(Signed)  William  M.  Walker, 

Commanding  TJ.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish . 

William  L.  Hudson,  Esq., 

Commanding  TJ.  S.  Ship  Peacock  and  Schooner  Flying-Fish. 

109 


* 


VOL.  I. 


434 


APPENDIX. 


P.  S.  In  looking  over  this  communication,  I  believe  it  better  to  state, 
that  the  appearance  noticed  in  the  ice,  and  of  which  I  have  made 
mention  on  the  third  page,  amounted  to  a  deep  earthy  stain.  I  cannot 
pretend  to  account  for  it. 

XXXII. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  April  17th,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will  await  here  until  the  23d  instant,  for  the  arrival  of  the 
Relief;  and  when  she  arrives,  you  will  immediately  receive  on  board 
the  gentlemen  whom  Lieutenant-Commandant  Long  may  transfer  to 
the  Sea-Gull.  You  will  afford  them  the  best  possible  accommodation, 
and  proceed  with  all  despatch  to  Valparaiso,  where  you  will  find  me 
or  orders. 

Should  the  Relief  not  arrive  here  on  or  before  the  23d  instant,  you 
will  proceed  on  the  24th,  without  delay,  to  Valparaiso. 

You  will  report  to  Lieutenant-Commandant  Long,  on  his  arrival, 
and  show  him  this  order,  after  which  your  detention  must  not  exceed 
six  hours,  as  it  is  important  you  should  reach  Valparaiso. 

If  you  should  discover  the  Relief  off,  you  will  run  out  to  take  the 
passengers  on  board,  with  as  little  delay  as  possible. 

Should  she  not  arrive  on  or  before  the  23d,  you  will  deposit  the 
orders  for  Lieutenant-Commandant  Long  on  the  summit  of  Burnt 
Island. 

I  am,  respectfully, 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Passed  Midshipman  J.  W.  E.  Reid, 

Commanding  Sea-  Gull. 


XXXIII. 

GENERAL  ORDER. 

The  officers  of  the  Exploring  Expedition  will  transmit  to  me,  on 
the  receipt  of  this  order,  such  collections  of  shells,  specimens,  &c., 
as  they  may  have  made  since  leaving  the  United  States,  with  lists 
of  the  same,  for  the  purpose  of  having  them  placed  in  a  proper  state 
for  preservation  and  safe  keeping. 


APPENDIX. 


435 


It  is  presumed  that  each  officer  has  availed  himself  of  every  oppor¬ 
tunity  of  aiding,  by  individual  collections,  this  most  important  depart¬ 
ment  of  the  Expedition. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 

April  16th,  1839. 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  IN  RELATION  TO  THE  COLLECTION  AND 
PRESERVATION  OF  SPECIMENS,  SHELLS,  ETC. 

The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  has 
examined  the  collections  called  for  by  him,  and  finds,  with  much 
regret  and  mortification,  that  few  or  none  have  been  made. 

The  object  of  this  communication  is  to  avoid  any  misapprehension, 
hereafter,  in  regard  to  the  orders  heretofore  given  by  the  Navy  De¬ 
partment  and  myself,  requiring  the  collection  and  preservation  of  all 
shells,  specimens,  &c. 

To  the  country  belong  all  our  labours,  and  it  being  the  earnest 
wish  of  the  government,  that  as  large  and  extensive  collections  as 
possible  be  introduced  into  the  United  States  by  the  Exploring  Ex¬ 
pedition,  it  is  the  duty,  and  should  be  the  wish  of  every  officer,  to 
afford  all  the  aid  in  his  power  in  effecting  this  object. 

Any  selfish  ideas  of  accumulating  for  ourselves,  I  trust  are  laid 
aside,  particularly  when  it  is  considered  that  the  opportunity  of 
effecting  this  object  will  be  much  greater,  by  united  and  general 
collections  and  preservations,  as  all  which  are  left,  after  the  govern¬ 
ment  are  supplied,  would  undoubtedly  be  returned  to  those  who  had 
collected  them,  if  desired,  in  preference  to  others. 

It  is  believed,  that  with  proper  exertions  and  attention,  a  sufficient 
number  can  be  obtained  during  the  cruise,  to  supply  every  one  who 
may  desire  it,  from  the  general  collection. 

No  expense  or  means  will  be  spared  by  me  on  the  part  of  the 
government,  to  place  every  article  in  the  most  secure  state  of  pre¬ 
servation  and  safe  keeping ;  this  could  not  be  done,  if  all  specimens 
are  retained  by  the  persons  collecting  them. 

1st.  Hereafter  each  officer  will  avail  himself  of  every  opportunity 


436 


APPENDIX. 


of  making:  collections,  on  shore  and  afloat,  and  transmit  them  to  the 
commander,  or  such  person  as  he  may  designate,  who  will  cause 
them  to  be  cleaned  or  arranged  for  safe  keeping,  and  lists  will 
accompany  them,  with  the  name  of  the  person  who  collected  them. 

2d.  All  specimens,  shells,  &c.,  (in  no  case  exceeding  one  hundred,) 
will  be  required  if  they  can  be  obtained. 

3d.  The  cost  of  any  article  purchased  will  be  refunded,  should  it 
be  wanted  by  the  government.  Valuable  and  rare  shells,  seldom  met 
with,  will  of  course  be  retained  by  the  government. 

4th.  The  naturalists  will  have  every  opportunity  afforded  them, 
of  examining  and  describing  any  fish,  shells,  &c.,  as  soon  as  taken. 

These  arrangements  will,  it  is  hoped,  produce  the  desired  co-opera¬ 
tion,  and  will  insure  success;  not  only  meeting  the  view  of  the 
country,  but  also  holding  out  to  individuals  the  only  way  in  which 
they  can  be  sure  of  procuring  so  desirable  an  end,  as  a  complete 
collection  of  all  those  obtained  by  the  different  vessels. 

(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Orange  Harbour,  Terra  del  Fuego, 
April  18th,  1839. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Valparaiso,  May  17th,  1839. 

Sir, 

I  enclose  herewith  the  general  instructions  relative  to  the  collection 
and  preservation  of  specimens,  shells,  &c.,  for  the  information  and 
government  of  the  officers  of  the  Peacock,  under  your  command. 

Some  suitable  person  on  board  will  be  selected  to  preserve  all 
articles  that  may  hereafter  be  obtained. 

I  wish  to  call  the  attention  of  the  officers  of  the  squadron  to  the 
duties  required  of  them  at  every  port  we  may  visit,  in  relation  to 
making  and  noting  observations,  &c. 

To  each  and  all  of  us  attaches  the  obligation,  not  only  of  making 
collections,  but  furnishing  descriptions  of  foreign  countries  and 
people,  their  manners,  customs,  and  inhabitants,  their  climate,  soil, 
and  productions,  with  the  many  instructive  and  interesting  incidents 
which  are  afforded  us. 

The  government  expects  and  requires  this  of  ail  officers  attached  to 
the  Exploring  Expedition,  in  addition  to  their  other  duties ;  and  I 


APPENDIX. 


437 


trust  that  no  opportunity  will  be  omitted  in  complying  with  all  that 
is  required  or  expected.  I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Captain  W.  L.  Hudson, 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock. 

Lieut.  Com.  C.  Ringgold, 

U.  S.  Brig  Porpoise. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

May  ‘25th,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will  proceed  to  the  port  of  Callao,  with  all  possible  despatch. 
The  Bouqueron  Passage  is  recommended  to  you  to  enter  by,  as  it 
will  save  you  much  time.  You  will  anchor  at  the  island  of  San 
Lorenzo,  near  the  wharf  usually  occupied  by  the  Pacific  Squadron. 
You  have  permission  to  lift  the  bowsprit  of  the  brig,  and  endeavour  to 
discover  and  stop  the  leak ;  this  must  be  done  with  all  possible  expe¬ 
dition,  as  you  must  be  ready  to  sail  in  five  days  after  my  arrival  there. 

You  will  deliver  the  enclosed  orders  to  Lieutenant-Commandant 
Long,  of  the  Relief. 

Every  exertion  is  expected  from  yourself  and  officers  to  effect  this 
object,  the  speedy  accomplishment  of  your  repairs,  whilst  laying  at 
the  island  of  San  Lorenzo.  You  will  be  very  particular  in  noting 
the  hourly  observations  of  the  temperature  of  the  air  and  water. 

Two  boats  of  the  squadron  will  tow  you  to  sea  to-morrow  morning 
at  daylight. 

Yours,  very  respectfully, 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Com.  C.  Ringgold, 

Commanding  Porpoise. 


XXXIV. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Valparaiso,  May  31st,  1839. 

Sir, 

In  consequence  of  the  contemplated  changes  which  have  become 
necessary,  you  are  hereby  appointed  commander  of  the  United  States 

110 


VOL.  I. 


438 


APPENDIX. 


Schooner  Sea-Gull,  one  of  the  vessels  attached  to  the  Exploring 
Squadron  (under  my  command),  until  further  orders. 

Your  compensation  will  be  the  same  as  the  lieutenants  command¬ 
ing  brigs  and  schooners  on  the  coast  survey,  when  the  Exploring 
Expedition  left  the  United  States,  which  will  include  all  expenses 
while  on  shore  or  afloat. 

I  have  directed  Passed  Midshipman  Reid  to  report  to  you. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Com.  T.  T.  Craven, 

Valparaiso. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Valparaiso,  June  1st,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will  remain  at  Valparaiso  until  the  arrival  of  the  schooner 
Sea-Gull,  one  of  the  vessels  of  the  Exploring  Squadron,  expected 
here  hourly. 

On  her  arrival,  you  will  supply  her  with  all  possible  despatch  by 
requisitions  on  the  navy  agent,  with  all  the  outfits,  rigging,  stores, 
and  provisions,  (which  you  cannot  more  conveniently  obtain  at 
Callao),  when  you  will  proceed  direct  to  Callao ;  where  you  will  find 
me,  or  orders  with  the  navy  agent,  directing  your  further  movements. 

You  will  also  procure  any  funds  you  may  require  from  the  navy 
agent  on  requisition  and  receipts,  and  will  furnish  me  with  a  state¬ 
ment  of  the  amount  received  and  disbursed  during  your  separation. 

It  is  necessary  you  should  join  me  at  Callao,  as  soon  as  practicable. 
I  trust,  therefore,  you  will  have  every  article  ready  to  be  put  on  board 
the  Sea-Gull  the  first  day  after  her  arrival,  and  sail  the  succeeding 
day. 

I  have  requested  our  consul,  G.  G.  Hobson,  Esq.,  to  afford  you 
every  facility. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Com.  T.  T.  Craven, 

Valparaiso. 


APPENDIX. 


439 


Navy  Department, 

December  9th,  1839. 

Sir, 

The  Department  has  observed  in  the  newspapers  a  notice  of  your 
gallant  and  successful  efforts  in  rescuing  a  portion  of  the  crew  of  the 
Chilian  sloop-of-war  Monteguedo,  which,  it  appears,  was  wrecked  in 
the  harbour  of  Valparaiso,  during  the  gale  of  the  24th  and  25th  of 
July  last. 

Although  you  have  already  enjoyed  the  highest  reward  of  your 
exertions,  in  the  success  which  crowned  them,  it  would  not  do  justice 
to  its  own  feelings,  did  it  refrain  from  expressing  to  you  its  admiration 
of  the  fearless  self-devotoin  displayed  by  you  on  that  occasion,  and 
which  is  alike  honourable  to  yourself,  to  the  service,  and  to  your 
country. 

I  am,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  J.  K.  Paulding. 

Lieutenant  T.  T.  Craven, 

United  States  Exploring  Expedition. 

XXXV. 

GENERAL  ORDER. 

The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  has  de¬ 
ferred  acknowledging  the  great  gratification  he  has  received  from  the 
reports  of  the  commanders  of  the  different  vessels  respecting  the 
officers  and  crews,  during  their  late  arduous  cruise,  and  takes  this 
opportunity,  not  only  to  offer  them  his  thanks,  but  to  assure  them 
that  he  has  duly  represented  the  same  to  the  government ;  and  feels 
great  confidence  that  in  the  coming  service  they  will  show  an  equal 
alacrity  and  obedience  to  their  officers,  and  a  determination  to  carry 
out  the  views  of  the  government  and  the  country. 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

June  15th,  1839. 


440 


APPENDIX. 


XXXVI. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Harbour  of  Callao,  June  20th,  1839. 

Sir, 

•  In  consequence  of  the  changes  which  have  become  necessary  in 
the  Exploring  Squadron  (under  my  command),  you  are  hereby  ap¬ 
pointed  commander  of  the  United  States  Schooner  Flying-Fish,  one 
of  the  vessels  attached  to  the  same,  until  further  orders. 

Your  compensation  will  be  the  same  as  the  lieutenants  com¬ 
manding  schooners  on  the  coast  survey,  when  the  Exploring  Squad¬ 
ron  left  the  United  States,  which  will  include  all  expenses  while  on 
shore  and  afloat. 

I  have  appointed  Passed  Midshipman  Knox  an  Acting-Master, 
with  orders  to  report  to  you  for  duty  on  board  the  Flying-Fish. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Com.  R.  F.  Pinkney, 

U.  S.  Schooner  Flying-Fish. 


XXXVII. 

GENERAL  ORDERS. 

The  undersigned,  commanding  the  Exploring  Expedition,  has 
attentively  examined  the  proceedings  of  the  Naval  Court  of  Inquiry, 
relative  to  the  detention  of  the  boat  at  Good  Success  Bay,  in  March 
last,  and  the  conduct  of  Lieutenant  Dale,  who  was  in  charge  of  her. 

In  the  opinion  of  the  Court  he  concurs;  having  been  an  eye¬ 
witness  to  the  principal  transactions,  and  believes  that  the  whole 
difficulty  and  detention  of  the  boat  arose  and  was  occasioned  by  the 
inexperience  of  Lieutenant  Dale  in  managing  a  boat  in  the  surf:  the 
mode  of  using  the  ample  means  he  had ;  a  want  of  determined 
perseverance  to  execute  his  orders ;  and  some  procrastination  in 
effecting  his  progress  through  the  surf,  being  influenced  by  the 


APPENDIX. 


441 


timidity  of  some  of  those  with  him,  arising  from  the  novelty  of  the 
situation  they  were  placed  in. 

In  consideration  of  the  remarkable  long  confinement  of  Lieutenant 
Dale  under  suspension,  and  being  fully  impressed  with  the  opinion 
of  the  Court  relative  to  liis  good  conduct  and  attention  to  the  men 
during  his  detention  on  shore;  he  is  restored  to  duty,  and  will 
resume  his  duties  accordingly. 

The  undersigned  takes  this  opportunity  to  impress  upon  all  under 
his  command,  the  great  necessity  of  adhering  strictly  to  and  carrying 
orders  into  execution,  and  of  obtaining  information  relative  to  the  best 
modes  of  surmounting  difficulties  before  encountering  them ;  also,  to 
provide  themselves  fully  with  the  means  necessary  to  execute  orders, 
and  all  those  who  may  be  passengers  in  boats  to  abstain  from  inter¬ 
fering  or  giving  advice,  unless  it  is  asked,  as  many  delays  and 
difficulties  may  thus  be  avoided. 

He  cannot  refrain  from  expressing  the  high  opinion  he  has  of  the 
conduct  of  Lieutenant  Hartstein ;  also  of  John  Moore  (quarter¬ 
master),  Francis  Williams  (boatswain’s  mate),  and  Samuel  Stretch 
(quarter-master),  who  volunteered  in  the  attempt  to  afford  assistance 
to  the  party  on  shore,  and  he  desires  to  return  them  his  thanks  for 
their  conduct. 

The  Naval  Court  of  Inquiry,  of  which  Captain  William  L.  Hudson 
is  President,  is  hereby  dissolved. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition . 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Callao,  June  20th,  1839. 


XXXVIII. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Harbour  of  Callao,  June  22d,  1839. 

Sir, 

We,  the  undersigned  officers  of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  under 
your  command,  respectfully  take  the  liberty  of  addressing  you  on  the 
subject  of  those  officers  who  have  incurred  your  displeasure  in 
consequence  of  having  been  engaged  in  a  duel;  and  whom,  it  is 
understood,  you  intend  sending  to  the  United  States,  with  a  recom¬ 
mendation  to  the  proper  authority  that  they  may  be  dismissed  the 
service. 


VOL.  I. 


Ill 


442 


APPENDIX. 


We  are  very  far  from  arrogating  to  ourselves  the  right  of  discuss¬ 
ing  the  propriety  of  any  course  you  may  think  proper  to  adopt,  with 
regard  to  those  gentlemen;  but,  when  we  consider  the  youth  and 
inexperience  of  the  parties,  we  are  convinced  that  the  affair  was 
entered  into  without  proper  reflection  upon  the  ill  effect  that  such 
conduct  would  have  upon  the  reputation  and  efficiency  of  the  service 
upon  which  we  are  engaged,  and  that  the  decided  expression  of  your 
displeasure  will  be  sufficient  to  deter  others  from  the  commission  of  a 
similar  error ;  and  we  respectfully  assure  you  that  it  would  be  the 
source  of  great  gratification  to  all  of  us  if  you  could  render  it  con¬ 
sistent  with  your  duties  and  responsibilities,  as  the  commander  of  the 
Expedition,  to  overlook  the  offence  against  the  discipline  of  the 
service,  of  which  those  officers  have  been  guilty,  and  restore  them  to 
their  duty. 

We  have  the  honour  to  be,  very  respectfully, 

(Signed)  Robert  F.  Pinkney,  Lieutenant-Commandant. 

Overton  Carr,  Lieutenant. 

James  Alden,  Lieutenant. 

A.  Ludlow  Case,  Lieutenant. 

O.  H.  Perry,  Lieutenant. 

John  B.  Dale,  Lieutenant. 

James  H.  North,  Acting-Master. 

Augustus  A.  Baldwin,  Acting-Master. 

George  F.  Emmons,  Lieutenant. 

Thomas  A.  Budd,  Lieutenant. 

Samuel  R.  Knox,  Acting-Master. 

William  Spieden,  Purser. 

George  F.  Sinclair,  Acting-Master. 

Joseph  A.  Underwood,  Lieutenant. 

H.  J.  Hartstein,  Lieutenant. 

general  order. 

Having  received  a  strong  application  from  all  the  officers  of  the 
squadron,  in  behalf  of  the  young  officers  lately  engaged  in  a  duel, 
and  believing  that  so  remarkable  a  circumstance  as  the  unanimous 
call  of  all  their  seniors,  with  their  pledges  that  the  reputation  of  the 
Expedition  shall  not  suffer  from  the  repetition  of  a  like  occurrence, 
and  feeling  also,  assured  as  I  do,  that  nothing  of  the  kind  will  again 
occur  during  the  cruise,  to  cast  a  stigma  upon  the  reputation  of  the 


APPENDIX. 


443 


squadron,  and  believing  that  the  Honourable  the  Secretary  of  the 
Navy,  after  a  perusal  of  all  the  documents  in  relation  to  this  case, 
will  coincide  in  my  views,  and  justify  my  proceedings,  I  have  de¬ 
termined  under  all  the  circumstances  to  retain  them  in  the  squadron. 

Passed  Midshipmen  Lewis  and  Harrison,  and  Midshipmen  Blair 
and  Henry,  will  therefore  rejoin  the  Peacock  forthwith. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Callao,  June  2 3d,  1839. 


XXXIX. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Callao,  July  11th,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will,  on  the  arrival  of  the  Sea-Gull  at  this  port,  proceed  direct 
to  Matavai  Bay,  Tahiti,  Society  Islands,  pursuing  the  following 
route : 

Steering  a  course  that  will  take  you  in  or  about  the  longitude  of 
105°  W.,  to  the  latitude  of  20°  S.,  which  latitude  you  will  pursue 
until  you  fall  in  with  the  Low  Archipelago,  and  continue  thereon 
until  you  reach  the  longitude  of  134°  W.,  where  you  wrill  haul  to 
the  northward;  and  make  two  islands,  called  by  the  English  Minerva 
and  Serle  Island,  and  by  the  French  Clermont  de  Tonnerre :  they  are 
in  about  latitude  18°  32'  S.,  longitude  136°  W.,  the  latter  or  Serle 
Island,  in  latitude  18°  05'  S.,  longitude  137°  W.  The  French  and 
English  differ  as  respects  the  situation  of  this  island. 

From  thence  you  will  stand  again  to  the  southward,  passing  in  the 
latitude  of  20°  S.,  to  see  if  Turnbull’s  Island  does  exist;  it  is  said  to 
be  in  latitude  20°  10'  S.,  longitude  143°  W. ;  thence  you  will  make 
and  run  over  San  Pablo  Isle,  another  doubtful  one,  in  latitude  20°  S., 
and  longitude  145°  W.,  and  from  thence  to  Matavai  Bay,  where  you 
will  find  me,  or  letters  with  the  American  Consul,  directing  your 
further  movements. 

In  the  event  of  the  Sea-Gull  arriving  after  receipt  of  this  letter, 
you  will  furnish  her  at  Valparaiso  with  all  necessary  articles,  and 
render  her  complete  for  the  intended  service.  After  having  com¬ 
pleted  w7hich,  you  will  lose  no  time  in  proceeding  on  the  route 
designated  above. 


444 


APPENDIX. 


Your  attention  is  particularly  called  to  investigating  any  shoal, 
reef,  or  island  that  you  may  fall  in  with,  not  duly  represented  on 
your  chart,  taking  azimuth  bearings,  when  you  have  determined 
your  situation. 

If  you  should  not  possess  the  necessary  charts  of  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
you  will  at  once  make  a  requisition  on  the  navy  agent  for  that 
purpose,  getting  the  latest  and  the  best ;  I  have  written  to  him  ac¬ 
cordingly  to  supply  all  your  wants,  believing  that  you  will  require 
nothing  that  is  not  necessary. 

You  will,  of  course,  continue  the  usual  observations  of  tempera¬ 
ture,  &c.,  and  acquire  as  much  information  on  your  route  as  you  can. 

In  the  event  of  the  Sea-Gull  not  being  heard  from  within  four 
months  after  the  1st  of  June,  you  have  permission  to  return  to  the 
United  States,  or  join  the  squadron  on  the  Pacific  Station,  whichever 
may  suit  your  own  views.  The  attempt  to  follow  the  squadron  would 
be  impossible,  with  any  chance  of  success;  therefore  I  do  not  con¬ 
sider  myself  authorized  to  incur  the  expense,  and  devote  the  time  of 
any  officer  to  so  vague  a  prospect  of  service. 

Wishing  you  a  pleasant  and  prosperous  passage, 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Com.  T.  T.  Craven, 

Valparaiso. 


Similar  instructions  were  given  to  Lieutenant-Commandant  Craven 
at  Callao,  omitting  those  parts  relating  to  Valparaiso. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Harbour  of  Callao,  July  11th,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will  avoid  by  all  means  in  your  power  a  separation;  in  the 
event  of  such  an  occasion,  you  will  steer  for  the  island  of  St.  Paul’s, 
or  its  supposed  locality ;  thence  to  the  island  of  Minerva  or  Clermont 
de  Tonnerre,  in  latitude  18°  32'  S.,  longitude  136°  W. ;  then  hauling 
to  the  northward  to  make  the  Isle  of  Disappointment;  thence  by 
King  George’s  Group,  Waterlandt  Land,  and  Dean’s  Island;  and 
from  thence  to  Matavai  Bay  in  the  island  of  Tahiti. 

You  will  at  each  of  these  places  make  some  stay,  and  remain  at 
Matavai  Bay  until  you  hear  from  me. 


APPENDIX. 


445 


Yon  will  pay  particular  attention  to  all  your  observations,  and  make 
a  full  examination  of  any  tiling  you  may  fall  in  with. 

On  your  arrival  at  Matavai  Bay,  you  will  lose  no  time  in  obtaining 
sights  for  your  chronometers  on  shore,  on  Venus  Point. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Captain  Hudson, 

Peacock. 

Lieutenant-Commandant  Ringgold, 

Porpoise. 

Lieutenant-Commandant  Pinkney, 

Flying-Fish. 


X  L. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

Callao,  July  12th,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will  proceed  from  this  port  to  Oahu,  Sandwich  Islands,  taking 
in  your  route  the  American  Group  of  islands,  in  latitude  16°  1(4  N., 
longitude  134°  50'  W.  These  islands  have  been  unsuccessfully 
looked  for  by  Captain  Beechey,  in  this  position;  you  will  therefore 
make  the  latitude  in  longitude  130°  W.,  to  the  eastward  of  their 
supposed  situation,  and  run  along  it  until  you  reach  140°  W. : — 
thence  direct  to  Oahu. 

On  your  arrival  there,  you  will  leave  in  charge  of  the  United 
States  Consul,  P.  A.  Brismade,  Esq.,  all  of  the  articles  on  board  of 
the  Relief  belonging  to  the  Exploring  Expedition,  excepting  eight 
months’  provisions  for  your  crew,  and  sundry  articles  of  provisions 
and  stores  to  be  landed  at  Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  agreeably  to 
the  lists  enclosed  herewith. 

You  will  take  from  the  consul,  receipts  for  the  provisions,  which 
you  may  land  for  me  at  Sydney ;  you  will  require  him,  also,  to  have 
two-thirds  of  the  flour  (reserving  the  kiln-dried)  you  deliver  him, 
baked  and  ready  for  the  squadron  early  in  the  spring. 

After  remaining  at  Oahu  fifteen  days,  you  will  proceed  direct  to 
Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  passing  through  the  different  archipe¬ 
lagoes  as  you  may  deem  most  expedient,  and  as  the  winds  will 
permit.  On  your  arrival  at  Sydney,  you  will  leave  in  charge  of 

112 


VOL.  I. 


446 


APPENDIX. 


J.  H.  Williams,  United  States  Consul  there,  all  the  provisions  and  stores 
named  in  the  list  herewith  marked  “  for  Sydney,”  taking  receipts  for 
them,  which  yon  will  leave  enclosed  for  me,  and  request  him  to  have 
one  hundred  barrels  of  the  flour  (reserving  the  kiln-dried)  baked  into 
hard  bread,  for  the  squadron,  as  soon  as  convenient. 

After  landing  all  the  articles  at  Sydney,  you  will  take  on  board 
sufficient  ballast,  and  proceed,  via  Cape  Horn,  to  the  United  States, 
stopping  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  if  you  require  any  provisions,  stores,  or 
slop  clothing,  which  you  will  obtain  by  requisitions  on  the  navy  store¬ 
keeper  there.  You  will  not  remain  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  over  ten  days, 
and  will  proceed  to  Norfolk  or  New  York,  the  latter  if  the  season  will 
permit,  to  enable  you  to  dispose  of  the  specimens,  in  regard  to  which 
you  have  separate  orders  enclosed,  and  to  which  I  request  your  par¬ 
ticular  attention. 

You  will  take  charge  of,  and  send  to  the  Navy  Department,  the 
log-books  of  the  squadron  sent  home  by  you. 

You  will,  during  the  cruise,  take  on  board  the  Relief,  and  ship,  all 
distressed  American  seamen  whom  you  may  meet  with. 

On  your  arrival  in  the  United  States,  you  will  show  these  orders 
to  the  commander  of  the  station,  and  report,  by  letter  through  him,  to 
the  Honourable  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  enclosing  him  a  copy  of 
them.  As  he  has  been  requested  to  direct  the  payment  of  your 
officers  and  crew  by  the  purser  of  the  station,  to  whom  you  will 
deliver  the  rolls  and  accounts,  with  a  statement  of  the  money  and 
slops  advanced  by  you,  that  the  same  may  be  checked,  taking 
receipts  for  the  same,  as  offsets  to  the  amount  furnished  you  here  in 
money  and  slop  clothing. 

You  will  keep  a  correct  muster-roll  of  your  officers  and  crew, 
noting  any  changes 

You  will  require  from  the  officers  all  their  journals,  specimens,  &c., 
agreeably  to  the  instructions  of  the  Navy  Deparment ;  all  of  which 
you  will  box  up  and  deposit  at  the  Navy  Department. 

I  enclose  letters  for  the  Consuls  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and 
Sydney.  Any  expenses  they  may  incur  on  the  stores  will  be  refunded 
on  my  arrival. 

Should  the  Consul  and  Vice-Consul  at  Sydney  be  absent,  you  will 
call  on  Messrs.  Edwards  and  Hunt. 

If  possible,  you  will  anchor  in  the  inner  harbour  at  Oahu. 

You  will  leave  for  me,  with  the  Consul  at  Sydney,  a  report  of  your 
cruise  from  this  place  to  Sydney ;  and  you  will,  on  your  arrival  at 


APPENDIX. 


447 


home,  forward  to  the  Honourable  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  under 
cover  to  me,  a  report  of  the  proceedings  of  the  Relief  from  Sydney 
to  the  United  States,  addressed  to  me  at  Washington. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


Lieut.  Com.  J.  R.  Long, 

Relief. 


X  L  I. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  July  16th,  1839. 


With  a  view  of  avoiding  any  misapprehension  in  regard  to  the 
duties  of  the  artists  attached  to  the  Exploring  Expedition,  and  that 
their  services  and  time  may  be  as  usefully  engaged  as  possible,  I 
deem  it  proper  to  state,  that  they  will  not  confine  themselves  ex¬ 
clusively  to  any  particular  branch,  without  directions  from  me,  but 
will  divide  their  duties  among  the  different  departments  in  such  a 
manner  as  may  be  deemed  most  conducive  to  the  interest  and  benefit 
of  the  whole. 

Very  respectfully,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


ORDERS  FOR  OBSERVATIONS,  ETC. 

The  following  arrangements  with  regard  to  observations  will  be 
daily  attended  to  on  board  the  different  vessels  of  the  squadron, 
under  the  directions  of  thoir  respective  commanders :  returns  will  be 
made  to  me  weekly. 

1st.  The  lieutenant,  passed  midshipman,  and  midshipman,  of  the 
first  watch  will  assist  the  master  in  the  forenoon  observations  for  time 
and  azimuth. 

2d.  Those  of  the  mid-watch  will  take  the  meridian  altitude. 

3d.  Those  of  the  morning  watch  will  assist  in  the  afternoon 
observations. 


448 


APPENDIX. 


4th.  The  officers  who  have  no  night-watch  will  be  called  npon  for 
measuring  distances  during  the  night. 

5th.  The  master  will  be  informed  in  time,  when  opportunities 
occur  for  making  observations  for  amplitude,  in  the  morning  and 
evening. 

6th.  The  results  of  each  officer,  signed  by  him,  will  be  sent  to  the 
commander  daily,  and  entered  by  his  clerk  in  a  book  of  observations, 
who  will  note  the  time  when  required. 

(Signed)  Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  July  16th,  1839. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  2d,  1839. 

Sir, 

When  you  suppose  your  vessel  at  her  designated  distance,  you  will 
hoist  your  ensign  for  firing,  which  will  be  answered  as  soon  as  seen. 

It  is  believed  that  when  the  Vincennes’  masthead  subtends  an 
angle  of  25',  you  will  be  three  miles  from  her. 

After  the  signal  is  made  to  take  stations,  you  will  pursue  that 
course  which  will  lead  you  to  it  as  soon  as  possible. 

Immediately  after  the  signal  being  made  to  measure  azimuths, 
observations  will  be  taken  between  the  sun  and  vessels,  during  the 
taking  of  which  observations,  the  ship’s  ensign  will  be  hoisted  at  the 
peak. 

You  will,  after  we  heave-to  for  the  night,  try  the  dipping-needles 
and  deep-sea  temperature. 

You  will  calculate  the  time,  so  as  to  be  near  the  flag-ship  at  night¬ 
fall,  and  any  signals  that  are  made  will  be  repeated  to  the  vessel 
farthest  off.  In  case  of  appearance  of  bad  weather,  you  will  at  once 
draw  to  close  order  of  sailing  unless  otherwise  directed. 

It  is  desirable  that  all  calculations  should  be  made  before  the  day 
closes.  The  current  should  be  tried  daily,  either  morning  or  evening. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Captain  Wm.  L.  Hudson, 

U.  S,  Ship  Peacock, 


APPENDIX. 


449 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  8th,  1839. 

Captain  Hudson  will  assign  watches  to  the  scientific  gentlemen 
and  officers  who  are  usually  excused  from  watch,  on  the  nights  of  the 
8th,  9th,  and  10th  of  August.  One  quarter  of  the  heavens  will  be 
assigned  to  each  person,  who  will  note  at  once,  on  paper,  any  meteors 
that  may  appear,  viz.,  their  size;  with  or  without  train;  their  height; 
the  points  of  appearance  and  disappearance ;  and  the  time  of  flight. 

Although  it  may  seem  difficult  to  accomplish  all  of  this  on  a 
meteor,  yet  it  is  possible  and  even  easy,  viz.,  by  noting  the  star  of 
the  constellation  near  which  it  appears  and  disappears;  counting 
until  its  disappearance ;  the  arc  may  be  accurately  ascertained  by  a 
sextant ;  and  the  bearing  of  the  two  stars,  its  true  direction ;  the 
counting  compared  with  a  chronometer  will  be  the  true  time ;  and 
yet  one  has  time  to  examine  its  length  of  train,  brilliancy,  &c. 

Respectfully, 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


Similar  instructions  to  Lieutenants-Commandant  Ringgold  and 
Pinkney. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  8th,  1839. 

In  order  more  effectually  to  observe  the  periodical  meteors  which 
may  be  repeated,  on  the  nights  of  the  8th,  9th,  and  10th  of  August, 
the  following  officers  will  keep  watch  on  those  nights,  and  assist  the 
officers  of  the  watch  in  making  observations. 

With  the  1st  watch,  Mr.  Couthouy  and  Mr.  Elliott. 

With  the  2d  watch,  Dr.  Pickering  and  Mr.  Howison. 

With  the  3d  watch,  Mr.  Drayton  and  Dr.  Fox. 

With  the  4tli  watch,  Dr.  Gilchrist  and  Dr.  Whittle. 

The  officer  of  the  watch  will  assign  a  quarter  of  the  heavens  to  each 
person  in  his  watch,  who  will  note  at  once  on  paper,  any  meteors  that 
may  be  visible,  viz.,  their  size;  with  or  without  train;  their  height; 
the  points  of  appearance  and  disappearance ;  and  the  time  of  flight. 

Although  it  may  seem  difficult  to  accomplish  all  this  on  a  meteor, 
yet  it  is  possible,  and  even  easy,  viz.,  by  noting  the  star  of  the  con¬ 
stellation  near  which  it  appears  and  disappears;  counting  until  its 
disappearance;  the  arc  may  be  accurately  measured  by  a  sextant; 

113 


VOL.  I. 


450 


APPENDIX. 


the  bearing  of  the  two  stars  gives  the  direction ;  and  the  counting 
compared  with  a  chronometer  gives  the  true  time ;  and  yet  one  has 
time  to  examine  its  length  of  train,  brilliancy,  &c. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


MODE  OF  SURVEYING  THE  CORAL  ISLANDS. 

As  the  surveys  of  islands  are  frequently  spoken  of  in  the  body  of 
the  work,  I  have  deemed  it  proper  to  give  in  this  place  a  concise 
explanation  of  the  method  employed  for  this  purpose,  and  applied 
particularly  to  the  low  coral  islands,  together  with  an  example,  to 
serve  as  an  illustration  of  the  mode  in  which  it  was  carried  into 
effect. 

In  consequence  of  the  time  that  could  be  allotted  to  such  examina¬ 
tions  being  limited,  it  became  desirable  that  such  a  course  should  be 
pursued  in  our  surveys  as  should  unite  to  the  utmost  expedition  the 
greatest  attainable  accuracy.  A  method,  which  it  is  trusted  united 
these  requisites,  was,  therefore,  devised  and  communicated  to  the 
officers  of  the  squadron  in  the  shape  of  a  syllabus.  In  this  I  pointed 
out  the  mode  of  operating,  and  it  was  recommended  to  their  study,  in 
order  that  all  might  become  familiar  with  its  details..  The  basis  of 
this  method  rested  upon  the  measure  of  distances  by  sound.  For  this 
we  had  ready  means  by  firing  guns  alternately  from  the  different 
vessels,  any  three  of  which  being  stationary,  the  distances  and 
positions  of  objects  could  be  determined  from  them  by  direct  angles, 
giving  a  double  result,  or  by  the  angles  between  them,  taken  from 
the  shore  or  from  boats,  furnishing  data  for  the  problem  of  “the 
three  points.”  When  both  methods  can  be  applied  at  the  same  time, 
it  is  evident  that  the  utmost  accuracy  may  be  obtained.  Upon  the 
land,  by  employing  many  observers,  and  occupying  all  the  points  of 
a  trigonometric  survey  simultaneously,  the  whole  work  might  evi¬ 
dently  be  completed  in  a  very  short  space  of  time;  and  in  like 
manner  upon  the  water,  creating,  by  means  of  vessels  and  boats,  a 
number  of  artificial  stations  around  an  island,  measuring  angles 
simultaneously  at  them  all,  and  measuring  the  base  lines  by  sound, 
the  rapidity  with  which  a  survey  can  be  performed  is  equally  as 
great. 


APPENDIX. 


451 


By  means  of  the  system  of  signals  prepared  by  me  for  the  Ex¬ 
ploring  Expedition,  I  could  direct  the  vessels  to  assume  any  position 
I  might  select  as  most  fit  for  our  purpose.  When  these  were  reached, 
general,  but  minute  instructions,  directed  the  observations  that  were 
to  be  taken  at  each,  in  doing  which  there  was  no  difficulty.  These 
observations  were  entered  upon  a  deck-board,  for  which  the  following 
form  was  prescribed : 


FORM  OF  DECK-BOARD. 


TIME. 

POSITION. 

TIME. 

AZIMUTH 
OF  © 

LEFT-HAND 

OBJECT. 

CENTRE 

OBJECT. 

RIGHT-HAND 

OBJECT. 

REMARKS. 

To  illustrate  still  further  the  mode  in  which  the  whole  squadron 
was  made  to  concur  in  obtaining  unity  of  action,  a  detail  of  a  survey 
and  a  plot  of  the  work  are  subjoined. 

On  approaching  the  island  to  be  surveyed,  signal  was  made  to 
prepare  for  surveying  duty;  if  boats  were  to  be  used,  the  number 
of  them  and  the  vessels  whence  they  were  to  be  despatched  was  next 
indicated;  and  finally,  the  position  each  vessel  was  to  occupy  was 
shown.  The  vessels  having  reached  their  assigned  places  hove-to, 
and  the  boats,  having  been  previously  despatched,  would  about  the 
same  time  have  anchored  in  their  assigned  stations,  at  the  points  of 
reefs,  and  hoisted  their  appropriate  signals.  The  vessel  that  is 
first  to  fire  a  gun  then  hoists  an  ensign  at  the  foremast-head,  which 
is  answered  by  all,  and  the  flag  is  in  like  manner  displayed  previous 
to  each  successive  fire.  The  firing  then  goes  on  in  quick  succession 
from  all  the  vessels ;  and  during  the  time,  or  immediately  after,  all  the 
officers  being  on  deck  for  the  purpose,  angles  are  measured  between 
one  of  the  other  vessels  and  objects  on  the  shore,  each  by  a  different 
observer,  as  directed  and  indicated  by  the  oldest  officer  on  the  deck. 
The  objects  on  a  coral  island  are  always  few  and  distinct,  and  these 
angles,  together  with  those  made  by  the  visual  tangents  to  the  shores, 
have  always  been  found  sufficient  to  plot  from.  During  this  opera¬ 
tion  the  ensign  is  kept  hoisted  at  the  peak,  so  that  the  angles  from  the 
several  vessels  may  be  taken  simultaneously.  Altitudes  of  the  sun 
for  time,  and  angles  whence  to  calculate  the  azimuth  of  some  one  of 
the  objects,  are  also  taken  immediately  before  or  after  the  horizontal 


452 


APPENDIX. 


angles ;  and  in  the  boats,  if  sufficiently  near,  the  altitude  and  azimuth 
of  the  mast  of  one  of  the  ships  is  observed  at  the  same  time,  for  the 
purpose  of  defining  the  boat’s  position. 

When  this  is  done,  one  of  the  vessels  quits  her  position,  while 
the  others  maintain  theirs  by  manoeuvring  so  as  to  keep  the  angles 
between  objects  on  the  shore  of  the  same  magnitude ;  and  having 
attained  a  new  position,  the  same  operations  are  repeated,  the  boats 
having  in  the  mean  time,  also,  changed  theirs,  and  anchoring  as  soon 
as  the  vessel  takes  her  new  station.  When  anchored,  the  time  that 
elapses  between  the  flash  and  sound  of  the  guns,  and  the  angles 
between  the  vessels,  are  again  observed.  By  such  alternate  changes 
in  the  stations  of  the  several  vessels,  continued  until  a  circuit  of  the 
island  has  been  made,  the  work  is  finished,  and  when  it  joins,  it  is 
proved  by  the  last  distance  determined  by  azimuthal  angles  and 
sound,  as  by  a  base  of  verification.  The  deck-boards  are  now  sent 
on  board  the  flag-ship,  where  the  work  is  calculated  and  plotted. 

Of  such  an  operation,  the  annexed  wood-cut  is  an  example. 


The  survey  of  the  island  thus  represented,  which  is  about  seven 
miles  in  length,  was  performed  in  three  hours  and  thirty-five  minutes. 


APPENDIX. 


453 


It  beo-an,  as  noted  on  the  deck-boards,  at  lh  18m  p.  m.,  and  the  obser- 

O  7 

vations  closed  at  4h  53m  p.  m. 


INSTRUCTIONS  RELATIVE  TO  THE  DECK-BOARD. 

The  deck-board  will  be  kept  strictly  according  to  the  formula 
herewith  sent. 

The  officers  of  the  deck  will  be  particular  in  marking  the  times  at 
which  any  of  the  vessels  change  their  position,  and  the  length  of 
time  they  remain  in  them  (by  ship’s  time) ;  also  the  times  that  the 
firing  takes  place. 

The  measured  angles  will  be  at  once  communicated  to  this  ship. 

The  original  deck-paper,  with  the  calculated  azimuth  results,  will 
be  sent  to  me  at  the  expiration  of  the  day’s  work,  a  copy  of  which 
will  be  made  previously,  and  kept  on  board. 

The  particular  attention  of  the  officers  is  required  to  the  “  Instruc¬ 
tions  for  Boat  Duty,  Surveying,  &c.,”  of  the  22d  of  February,  1839, 
also  to  the  Manual  of  Surveying. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

At  Sea,  August  15th,  1839. 


XL  II. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  August  25th,  1839. 

Sir, 

I  was  surprised  to  notice  this  evening,  that  the  boats  from  the 
Peacock  were  not  alongside  at  sunset,  as  there  are  positive  written 
orders  to  that  effect,  unless  the  boats  are  previously  recalled  by  signal. 

I  presume,  also,  that  the  officers  of  the  boats  had  no  authority  from 
you  to  land,  although  I  saw  several  on  shore,  which  must  have  caused 
some  delay  in  regard  to  those  engaged  on  surveying  duty,  a  service 
second  to  none  in  the  Expedition ;  besides  hazarding  a  difficulty  with 
the  natives,  which  might  have  occasioned  also  a  delay  to  the  whole 
squadron,  as  they  are  evidently  hostile. 

I  trust  a  similar  occurrence  will  not  come  under  my  notice  again 
during  the  present  cruise. 

The  orders  to  the  officers  of  the  boats  must  be  well  understood 

VOL.  I.  114 


454 


APPENDIX. 


before  they  leave  the  ship,  and  strictly  obeyed ;  otherwise  the  inter¬ 
course  with  the  islands  must  be  restricted.  I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Capt.  Wm.  L.  HUDSON,  Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock. 


X  L  I  1 1. 

U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

August  31st,  1839. 

Hereafter  no  specimens  of  coral,  live  shells,  or  any  thing  else 
that  may  produce  a  bad  smell,  will  be  taken  below  the  spar-deck,  or 
into  any  of  the  rooms ;  and  it  will  be  the  duty  of  those  bringing  such 
on  board,  to  report  them  to  the  officer  of  the  deck,  who  will  see  that 
they  are  placed  under  the  charge  of  a  man  appointed  to  look  out  for 
them ;  and  that  this  order  is  strictly  obeyed. 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 


X  L  I  V. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At-Sea,  September  1st,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will  proceed  around  the  island  of  Raraka,  and  obtain  its 
dimensions,  as  indicated  in  your  orders  of  yesterday,  turning  its  west 
point,  and  continuing  down  its  south  side,  until  you  reach  the  posi¬ 
tion  you  left  yesterday.  Your  courses  and  distances  must  be  kept 
very  accurately,  and  your  approach  to  the  shore  and  reef,  as  near  as 
practicable  with  safety. 

You  will  always  regain  the  same  position  in  the  morning,  that  you 
left  the  day  before. 

After  you  shall  have  executed  this  duty,  you  will  then  proceed  to 
the  northeast,  and  make  the  island  we  discovered,  called  Taiara,  or 
King’s  Island,  and  steer  from  there  by  daylight  a  northwest  course. 

You  will  make  Carlshoff  Island,  and  from  thence  proceed  to  the 
north  side  of  Prince  of  Wales’  Island,  where  you  will  meet  me;  if 
not,  however,  you  will  determine  the  east  and  west  ends  of  it,  and 


APPENDIX. 


455 


that  of  Krusenstern’s  Island  in  its  vicinity;  from  thence  you  will 
proceed  to  Matavai  Bay,  and  await  further  orders. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Com.  C.  Ringgold, 

U.  S.  Brig  Porpoise. 


X  L  Y. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes, 

At  Sea,  September  4th,  1839. 

Sir, 

You  will  proceed  to  windward,  and  visit  Oura  and  Tiokea  Islands 
of  King  George’s  Group,  and  ascertain  their  correct  position  and  the 
number  of  islands  composing  the  group.  From  thence  you  will 
proceed  by  Waterlandt  to  the  Prince  of  Wales’  Island,  coasting  along 
the  northern  side,  and  taking  observations,  as  required  by  my  orders 
of  the  1st  instant;  and  from  thence  to  Matavai  Bay  for  further 
orders. 

Should  you  arrive  at  Matavai  Bay  before  this  ship,  you  will  allow 
none  of  the  natives  to  remain  on  board  or  visit  the  Flying-Fish  after 
sunset. 

Your  vessel  must  never  be  left  without  two  officers. 

I  am,  &c., 

Charles  Wilkes, 

Commanding  Exploring  Expedition. 

Lieut.  Com.  R.  F.  Pinkney, 

Flying-Fish. 


END  OF  THE  FIRST  VOLUME. 


. 


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