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Full text of "Packard_Servicing_The_Ultramatic_Drive_Part_VII"

SERVICE 
MANUAL 



SECTION VII 

ULTRAMATIC 
DRIVE 




Packard Motor Car Company 
Detroit 32, Michigan 



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INDEX 

OPERATION PAGE 

CONVERTER ASSEMBLY 5 

CONVERTER DISASSEMBLY 3 

REGULATED PUMP PRESSURE CHART 33 

SERVICING THE ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 2 

Ultramatic Drive Removal 2 

TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY 7 

Bell Housing Disassembly 10 

Bell Housing Removal 7 

Control Valve Disassembly 11 

Front Oil Pump Disassembly 10 

Further Disassembly 8 

High Range Clutch Disassembly 9 

High Range Clutch Unit Removal 7 

Hydraulic Governor Disassembly 12 

Oil Pan and Control Valve Removal 7 

Planetary Unit Disassembly 9 

Planetary Unit Removal 7 

Rear Oil Pump Disassembly 11 

Reactor Over-running Clutch 11 

THROTTLE VALVE, MODULATED, AND GOVERNOR 

PRESSURE CHART 33 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES 34-51 

ULTRAMATIC DRIVE ADJUSTMENTS 26-27 

ULTRAMATIC DRIVE HYDRAULIC TESTS 29-32 

ULTRAMATIC DRIVE INSTALLATION 24 

ULTRAMATIC DRIVE MAINTENANCE 28 

Changing the Transmission and Converter Fluid 28 

Checking the Fluid Level 28 

UNIT ASSEMBLY 15 

Bell Housing Assembly 18 

Control Valve Assembly 17 

Front Oil Pump Assembly 18 

High Range Clutch Assembly 18 

Hydraulic Governor Assembly 16 

Planetary Unit Assembly 19 

Reactor Over-Running Clutch 17 

Rear Oil Pump Assembly 18 

Transmission Case Assembly 15 

UNIT INSTALLATION 21 

Control Valve Installation and Adjustment 23 

High Range Clutch Installation 22 

Oil Screen and Pan Installation 24 

Planetary Unit Installation 21 



SECTION VII 
ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 




Figure I— Cross Section of fhe Uliramatic Drive 



Description 

The Packard Ultramatic Drive combines the fast, 
efficient, fluid smoothness of the torque converter dur- 
ing acceleration with the slippage-free efficiency of the 
hydraulically operated direct drive clutch. The Packard 
Ultramatic Drive provides the driver with: 

(a) Complete absence of the clutch pedal and the 
necessity of gear shifting either by the driver or the 
transmission. 

(b) Maximum engine efficiency for starting, accelera- 
tion, high speed, and deceleration. 

(c) Infinite number of ratios that will automatically 
change to provide the correct ratio for all driving 
conditions. 

(d) A positive direct drive eliminating gas wasting 
and "racing engine" sensation at cruising speeds. The 
direct drive clutch provides positive engine braking 
when needed. 

(e) Smoothness and quietness throughout the entire 
operating range, during starting, acceleration, high 
speed, and deceleration. 

The Ultramatic Drive consists mainly of three units: 

(1) The torque converter. 

(2) The planetary transmission. 

(3) The hydraulic system. 



Torque Converter 

The torque converter is a three member unit, consist- 
ing of the converter pump, first and second turbines, 
and the reactor. The torque converter provides approxi- 
mately 2.4 to 1 torque multiplication ratio from a 
standing start. A hydraulically operated single plate 
clutch is incorporated in the torque converter to provide 
direct drive at steady driving speeds above 15 M. P. H. 

Planetary Transmission 

Although no transmission is required with the torque 
converter for all normal forward driving, however, a 
simple transmission is needed for high range, neutral, 
emergency low range, and reverse operation. The Pack- 
ard Ultramatic Drive transmission uses a compound 
planetary gear train consisting of two sun gears, six 
planetary pinions, and an internal tooth ring gear. 

Neutral operation is obtained by releasing all the 
members of the planetary system, while high range is 
obtained by locking the two sun gears together through 
the use of a hydraulically operated multiple disc clutch. 

Low range is obtained by holding the front sun gear, 
and reverse is obtained by holding the ring gear. To 
make the transmission fully automatic, low or reverse 
operation is accomplished through the use of bands 
actuated by hydraulically operated pistons. 

Hydraulic System 

The operation of the high range clutch, low range 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



band, reverse band, and the converter direct drive clutch 
is accomplished by the hydraulic system. Hydraulic pres- 
sure is obtained by the use of the front and rear oil 



pumps. The control valve assembly and the hydraulic 
governor direct the correct pressure at the required 
time to the desired hydraulic unit. 



SERVICING THE ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Ultramatic Drive Removal 

Lift both ends of the car and support the car on 
stands at all four wheels. A twin post lift, if available, 
may be used to raise and support the car. 

Place the steering column selector level in neutral. 
Connect the "remote control starter switch J-2679" be- 
tween the ungrounded post of the battery and the 
solenoid small terminal. 




Figure 2— Removing the Flywheel Lower Housing 

Loosen the exhaust pipe flange. Remove the flywheel 
lower housing. By depressing the remote control starter 
switch button, rotate the flywheel until one converter 
drain plug is at the bottom. Loosen the drain plug. 
Rotate the flywheel 180° until the other drain plug is 
at the bottom. 




Remove the converter drain plug and drain the 
fluid into a clean container. Remove the transmission 
drain plug to drain the fluid from the transmission. 
Install and tighten all drain plugs after the fluid has 
drained out. 

Disconnect the selector control linkage. Disconnect 
the transmission throttle valve link rod. Disconnect the 
oil cooler lines at the transmission. Disconnect the 
speedometer cable. Disconnect both universal joints 
and remove the propeller shaft. 




Figure 3 — Removing fhe Universal Joinf 
Locking Retainer 



Figure 4— Supporting the Engine Using an 
Auxiliary Support Beam 

Use a jack or an auxiliary support beam to support 
the engine while the Ultramatic Drive is removed. 
Raise the engine until the load is off the rear engine 
mounting. Remove the rear engine mounting and sup- 
port crcns member. 

Lower the engine and Ultramatic Drive until the 
universal joint flange almost rests on the lower side 
of the frame "X" member. Remove the two extreme 
upper bell housing to upper flywheel housing cap 
screws. Raise the engine to its normal height. 

Place the transmission lift or jack under the trans- 
mission. Be sure the adapter fits properly around the 
transmission pan. Be sure the transmission lift is the 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



type that can be tilted down at the forward end. Attach 
the safety chain around the transmission case. Pick up 
the transmission load by slightly raising the lift. 

Mark the relative position of the flywheel and con- 
verter clutch housing. Remove the flywheel to clutch 
housing attaching bolts. Tap the clutch housing with a 
soft hammer to loosen, and slide the converter assembly 
to the rear. 

Remove the transmission bell housing to flywheel 
housing bolts. Fasten the converter to the bell housing 
to prevent it from falling off. Slide the transmission and 
lift to the rear until the clutch housing is clear of the 
flywheel. 

Lower the transmission with the lift, and at the same 
time tilt the front end down until the bell housing is 
clear of the flywheel and housing. Move the transmis- 
sion and lift forward until the universal joint flange is 
clear of the frame "X" member. Lower the transmission 




Figure 5— Tilting the Lift to Clear the Front End 

to the floor. Remove the transmission from under the 
car and place it on the bench or a reconditioning stand. 



CONVERTER DISASSEMBLY 



Place the converter on a bench with the pump end 
up. Using dial indicator and special clamp number 
PU-306, measure the reactor shaft end play to determine 
if a new thrust washer is needed. The end play should 
be .010" to .015". 





Figure 7— Removing the Converter Pump 



Figure 6— Measuring the Reactor Shaft End Play 

Remove the converter pump to clutch housing cap 
screws. 

Caution: These are special cap screws and should 
not be interchanged with other cap screws of the 
same size. Tap the converter pump with a plastic 
hammer to loosen, and slip off the converter 
pump and thrust spacer. 

Remove the second turbine to first turbine bolts. Re- 
move the second turbine, after tapping it loose with a 
plastic hammer. 




Figure 8— Removing the Converter Direct Drive 
Clutch Driven Plate 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Remove the reactor, shaft, and ball thrust bearing. 

Unlock and remove the first turbine to converter 
clutch driven plate hub cap screws. Remove the first 
turbine. Remove the reactor thrust washer. 



Remove the direct clutch stationary driving plate. 
Remove the clutch driven plate and front thrust washer. 



Remove the clutch moveable driving plate and piston 
by bumping the clutch housing on the bench. 



(Note the piston rings on the inner diameter of the 
clutch housing, and the outer diameter of the piston.) 




Figure 9— Bump the Clutch Housing to Remove 
the Piston 



CLEANING AND INSPECTION 



Important 

Cleanliness is a law when servicing a converter. Make 
sure your hands are clean, as well as the cleaning sol- 
vent, container, bench, and tools. 

Wash all the converter parts in clean, unleaded gaso- 
line, kerosene, or carbon tetrachloride. Dry all the parts 
by blowing them off with compressed air. 

Inspect the contact surface of the outer flange of the 
converter pump, and the outer edge of the clutch hous- 
ing for nicks, burrs, indentations, warpings, or low 
spots that might cause the converter to leak. 

Inspect the machined area around the vanes and torus 
ring for wear or rubbing condition, which would be an 
indication of worn reactor bearing or thrust washer. 
Inspect the vanes and torus ring for any indication 
of cracks. 

Inspect the converter pump shaft surface for pits, 
scores or wear. If the shaft surface is scored or worn, 
replace the shaft, and the babbitt bearing in the trans- 
mission bell housing. Inspect the condition of the con- 
verter pump shaft splines. 

Inspect the general condition of the second turbine 
for any indication of cracks. Inspect the machined area 
around the vanes for wear or rubbing condition, which 
would be an indication of worn reactor bearing or 
thrust washer. 

Inspect the mounting flange of the second turbine for 
being warped or cracked bolt hole bosses. 

Inspect the general condition of the first turbine for 
any indication of cracks. Inspect the machined area 
around the vanes, torus ring and center for wear or 
rubbing condition, which would be an indication of 
worn converter bearings or thrust plates. 



Inspect the outer mounting flange for being warped 
or distorted. Inspect the condition of the bolt holes and 
threads. Inspect the center mounting surface for burrs, 
nicks or distortion. Inspect the condition of the center 
alignment flange. 

Inspect the general condition of the reactor for any 
indication of cracks. Inspect the machined area around 
the vanes and hub for wear or rubbing condition which 
would be an indication of worn reactor bearing or 
thrust plate. 

Inspect the reactor shaft bearing surfaces and splines 
for wear, pits, or scores. Inspect the reactor shaft attach- 
ing flange and cap screws. 

Inspect the reactor to first turbine thrust washer. 
Inspect the reactor to converter pump thrust bearing 
for wear, pits or scores. 




Figure 10— Measuring the Piston Ring Gap 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Inspect the direct drive clutch driven plate for worn 
or loose facings, or loose torque springs. Inspect the 
driven plate hub splines. 

Inspect the clutch stationary driving plate for wear, 
burrs, pits, and scores. Inspect the condition of the 
driving splines. 

Inspect the clutch moveable driving plate and piston 
for wear, burrs, pits and scores. Inspect the condition of 
the piston rings and grooves. Measure the ring gap of 
the inner and outer rings. The gap should be .003" to 



.012". Install new rings if they do not come up to 
specifications. 

Inspect the condition of the clutch housing to con- 
verter pump contact surface for nicks, burrs, indenta- 
tions, warping or low spots that may cause the converter 
to leak. Clean and inspect the oil passage from the input 
shaft bearing to the direct drive clutch piston. 

Upon cleaning and inspection of all the converter 
parts, the converter may be reassembled with utmost 
care using new gaskets. 



CONVERTER ASSEMBLY 



Install and tighten the drain plugs in the converter 
direct drive clutch housing. Place the clutch housing 
on the bench with the rear side up. 

Be sure the rings are free in the ring grooves. Center 
the rings for easy installation and to prevent ring 
damage. 




Figure II— Installing the Converter Direct 
Drive Clutch Piston 

Install the direct drive clutch piston. Be sure there 
are no burrs on the clutch cylinder, piston or rings. 
Make sure the driving plate splines do not bind in the 
clutch housing splines. 

Install the clutch driven plate and front thrust 
washers. Install the stationary driving plate. 

Install the first turbine, attaching it to the driven 
plate hub. Tighten the attaching cap screws evenly to 
a torque tightness of 25 to 30 foot pounds. Be sure to 
bend over the lock plate tabs to lock the attaching 
cap screws. 

Install the thrust washer in the hub of the first tur- 
bine. Coat the thrust washer with clean cup grease to 
hold it in place. Install the reactor and shaft. 




Figure 12— Installing the Reactor and Thrust Washer 

Install the second turbine, and install the attaching 
cap screws. Tighten the cap screws evenly to a torque 
tightness of 12 to 15 foot pounds. 




Figure 13— Measuring the Clearance Between the 
Converter Pump and Clutch Housing 

Temporarily install the converter pump without the 
gasket. Measure the clearance between the flange of the 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



pump and the face of the clutch housing. When meas- 
ured without a gasket, the clearance should be .007" or 
less. This clearance also should be consistent within 
.002" all around the pump flange. 

If the clearance varies more than .002", rotate the 
pump approximately y 4 turn at a time, and each time 
check the clearance to obtain a pump position where 
the variation in clearance is the lowest. Sometimes, re- 
positioning the pump in this manner will bring the 
the variation within .002". After finding this lowest 
ariation position, the next step is to mark both the 
pump and the clutch housing with a center-punch. See 
figure 14. 




Figure 14— Punch Marks Line Up fhe Converter Pump 
and Clutch Housing 

Caution: The marks must be made with a center- 
punch and only between the bolt hole bosses. 
A chisel definitely must not be used, and the bolt 
hole bosses never should be marred in any way. 

Paint should be used if a center-punch is not 
available. 

To reduce the clearance where it is on the high side, 
carefully dress down the offending section of the 
shoulder of the pump with a mill file and then recheck 
the clearance after lining up the punch marks. 

If the clearance exceeds .007" after a variation of 
.002" or less is reached, the shoulder should be dressed 
down all around its circumference. This should be done 
carefully so that the clearance variation will not be 
disturbed. 



Install the ball thrust bearing in place over the re- 
actor shaft. Coat the ball thrust bearing with clean cup 
grease to hold it in place. Install the bearing spacer in 
the forward end of the converter pump shaft. 




Figure 15— Torque Tightening the Converter Pump 

Install a new converter pump gasket. Install the con- 
verter pump, lining up the punch marks. Install all 
converter pump attaching cap screws and washers. 
Tighten the cap screws evenly to a torque tightness of 
25 to 30 foot pounds. 




Figure 16— Checking the Driven Plate for 
Free Rotation 

Check the driven plate for free rotation by spinning 
the driven plate with a dummy input shaft. There 
should not be any drag on the driven plate. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY 



Oil Pan and Control Valve Removal 

After the transmission is removed from the car, place 
it on a clean work bench or work stand, upside down 
so the oil pan is on the top. Remove the oil pan and 
gasket. 

Install the hold-down fixture PU-308 on the low 
range band lever and the reverse band lever. This is 
accomplished by inserting the narrow end of the fixture 
between the lever and the piston, attaching the other 
end to the transmission case by two knurled head 
screws. This will prevent dropping the band struts 
when the valve assembly is removed. 




Figure J 7— Removing fhe Control Valve Assembly 

Remove the oil screen. Remove the pin from the con- 
trol valve link. Remove all the 5/ 1(i " attaching cap 
screws. Notice the location of the different length cap 
screws. Remove the control valve lower body, separator, 
and upper body as an assembly. The assembly may be 
further disassembled if necessary. 

Bell Housing Removal 

Remove the eight attaching cap screws and remove 
the bell housing. Remove the gasket. 

High Range Clutch Unit Remote 

Loosen the low range band adjustment. Remove the 
high range clutch assembly. Remove the front sun gear 
thrust bearing. 

Remove the hold-down fixture from the low range 
band lever. Remove the struts from the low range band. 
Be careful that the struts do not drop into the trans- 
mission case. Remove the low range band. 

Planetary Unit Removal 

Remove the governor cover. Remove the governor 
adapter attaching cap screws and remove the governor. 




Figure 18— Removing the High Range Clutch 
Assembly 

Remove the speedometer drive pinion and retainer. 

Remove the rear housing cap screws and remove the 
housing and extension shaft as an assembly. 




Figure 19— Removing the Planetary Unit 

Remove the parking gear. Remove the speedometer 
drive gear and spacers. Note that the spacer with the 
grooved face goes to tl e rear of the speedometer drive 
gear. Remove the entire planetary unit and output 
shaft through the front of the transmission case. 

The extension shaft may be removed from the hous- 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



ing by removing the universal joint flange nut and 
removing the flange. The shaft may be driven out from 
the rear end ball bearing by tapping the rear end of 
the shaft with a soft hammer. 




Figure 20— Removing the Extension Shaft from the 
Rear Housing 

The oil seal at the rear end of the retainer may be 
driven out using a drift or seal puller. Remove the 
large snap ring at the rear of the ball bearing and press 
out the ball bearing. 

The babbitt bearing in the forward end of the rear 
housing may be removed by using special puller PU-335 
and adapter PU-357. When installing a new babbitt 
bearing, adapter PU-357 may be used to press in the 
be- ing. 




Figure 21— Removing the Reverse Band 

Loosen the reverse band adjustment. Remove the re- 
verse drum and planetary ring gear. 

Remove the lever hold-down fixture from the reverse 
band lever. Remove the reverse band struts. Remove 
the reverse band. 

Remove the rear oil pump. 



Further Disassembly 




figure 22— Removing the Rear Oil Pump 

Under normal operation, further disassembly of the 
transmission case may not be necessary. However, if it 
is desired to strip the case, the starter safety switch may 
be removed. The selector control detent may be 
removed. 

Remove the selector detent. Loosen the lock screw 
on the selector detent sector. Remove the lock screw 
from the control valve inner lever. Slip the control 
valve outer lever and cross shaft from the case, being 
careful not to damage the oil seal. Lift out the detent 
sector, inner lever, and the parking lock operating 
lever (cam). 




Figure 23— Removing the Band Lever 
Pivot Pins and Levers 

The low range and reverse band levers may be re- 
moved by driving out the lever pivot pins. The parking 
gear pawl and lever may be removed after removing 
the pivot pin. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Planetary Unit Disassembly 

Pry away locking plate tabs. Support the output shaft 
and planetary cage in a soft jawed vise. 




Figure 24— Removing the Forward Half of the 
Planetary Cage 

Remove the cap screws attaching the forward half 
of the planetary cage to the rear half and output shaft. 
Remove the forward half of the cage by tapping it 
sharply with a plastic hammer. 




Figure 25— Removing the Short Planetary 
Pinion Assemblies 

Move the short planetary pinion shaft to the rear and 
remove the locking Woodruff key. Remove the three 
short planetary pinions, shafts, thrust washers, and 
roller bearings as an assembly. 




Figure 26— Removing the Rear Son Gear 



Move the long planetary pinion shaft to the rear, 
and remove the locking Woodruff key. Remove the long 
planetary pinions, shafts, thrust washers, and roller 
bearings as an assembly. The pinions, shafts, and rollers 
may be further disassembled. 




-1 i 



Remove the rear sun gear and thrust washer, 
figure 26. 



See 



Figure 27— Disassembled Planetary Pinion.Shaft, 
and Roller Bearings 



High Range Clutch Disassembly 

Remove the large snap ring from the low range 
drum. Remove the front sun gear and flange from 
the drum. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 




Figure 28— Disassembled High Range Clutch 

Remove the clutch, hub, and input shaft. Remove 
the clutch plates. 




Figure 29— Removing the Clutch Piston Spring 
Snap Ring 

Using clutch spring compressor PU-304, compress 




the clutch piston return spring. Remove the retaining 
snap ring. Release the compressing tool and remove the 
clutch piston spring and seat. 

Bump the low range drum, piston side down, on a 
wooden block or bench to dislodge and remove the 
clutch piston. Remove the outer piston ring from the 
piston. Remove the inner piston ring from the inner 
hub of the low range drum. 

Remove the snap ring from the input shaft to the 
rear of the clutch hub. Remove the clutch hub from the 
input shaft. 

Bell Housing Disassembly 




Figure 31— Removing the Front Oil Pump 

Remove the eight attaching screws and remove the 
front oil pump and reactor over-running clutch housing, 
but do not disassemble. Remove the front pump relief 
valve and spring. Remove the threaded plugs from the 
oil pressure passage. 



Figure 30— Removing the High Range Clutch Piston 



Front Oil Pump Disassembly 

Remove the two retaining screws holding the pump 
together with the reactor over-running clutch housing. 
Remove the pump front cover plate. Remove the pump 
body and rotors. Separate the pump body and rotors. 
Separate the pump rear plate from the reactor over- 
running clutch housing. 



10 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



REACTOR 
CLUTCH 
HOUSING 



FRONT 
PLATE 




Figure 32— A Disassembled Front Oil Pump 

Rear Oil Pump Disassembly 

Remove the cover plate from the rear pump. Remove 
the inner and outer rotors from the pump body. The 
rotors of the rear pump are smaller than those of the 
front pump and are not interchangeable. 




Figure 33— A Disassembled Rear Oil Pump 

Reactor Over-Running Clutch 

Caution: Do not disassemble the reactor over- 
running clutch. If the unit is faulty or worn, re- 
place the entire unit. However, to inspect the 
condition of the over-running clutch races and 
sprags, slip the circular coil spring from the 
front end of the sprags. Gently remove one of the 
sprags from the unit with a pair of long-nosed 
pliers. Visually inspect the condition of the sprag 
and inner and outer races. If they are worn, pitted 
or brinelled, install a new reactor over-running 
clutch. If the inspection reveals that the races and 
sprags are in good condition, gently install the 



sprag in its correct position, and install the coil 
spring in the groove of the front end of the 
sprags. 




Figure 34— Removing a Reactor Over-Running 
Clutch Sprag for Inspection 



Control Valve Disassembly 

Caution: Although it is important that all pre- 
cautions of care and cleanliness be taken when 
servicing the Packard Ultramatic Drive, it cannot 
be over-emphasized that the bench or work space 
must be clean when servicing the control valve. 
Be sure to have a clean pan and solvent for clean- 
ing the valve parts as they are removed. The parts 
may be blown dry with clean, dry compressed air, 
or they may be wiped dry with a clean, lintless 
cloth. Have another clean, lintless cloth or clean 
paper to lay the parts on after they are cleaned. 
Lay out the valve parts as they are removed in the 
same sequence as they are installed in the valve 
body. Be careful that the valve parts do not 
bump or hit each other, as this may cause nicks or 
burrs on the edges or surfaces. Remove the valve 
parts by a slight twisting motion, as this will 
generally free a sticking part and will help to 
prevent a part from becoming wedged in a bore. 
Do not force any of the valve parts. Because if 
they are binding it is most likely they are wedged, 
and forcing them would cause the sharp edges 
to gouge or cut ridges in the aluminum valve 
body. Be sure to cover the cleaned valve parts so 
that they will be clean when ready to inspect and 
assemble the valve. 

Do not grip the valve bodies or parts in a vise, as 
it may crack or distort the body, or damage the 
internal bores. 



11 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 









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Figure 35— A Disassembled Lower Valve Body 






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Figure 36— A Disassembled Upper Valve Body 



Procedure 



Remove the cap screws and separate the lower valve 
body, separator plate, and upper valve body. Remove 
the throttle valve piston spring seat screws. Remove 
the throttle valve, piston, spacer, spring, and seat. 
Remove the control valve and link, using a slight 
twisting motion. 

Remove the plate at the rear end of the timing bore. 
Remove the timing valve and spring. Remove the plate 
at the rear end of the direct drive shift valve bore. Re- 
move the shift valve piston. Remove the pins at the 
forward end, and at the center of the modulating valve 
bore. Remove the modulating valve, guide, and the 
direct drive shift valve. 

Remove the low range and reverse cylinder bodies and 
pistons from the upper valve body. 



Remove the plate at the forward end of the upper 
valve body. Remove the pump check valve, pump selec- 
tor valve, converter inlet valve, converter relief valve, 
and the valve springs. 

Hydraulic Governor Disassembly 

Remove the two cap screws attaching the governor 
housing to the governor drive shaft flange. Separate the 
housing from the driving flange. Check the governor 
drive shaft to adapter end play and side clearance. The 
end play should be .010" to .018", while the drive shaft 
side clearance should be .0005" to .002". 

If the end play or side clearances exceed these limits, 
disassemble the driveshaft as follows: Drive out the 
driving gear pin. Press off the driving gear, and remove 
the driving shaft from the adapter. 



12 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Check the governor valve for free operation. Push 
the governor valve into the inner limit of its travel. The 
spring should push it out to its outer limit of travel 
when released, without any drag. 




Figure 37— Inspecting the Governor Vent Valve 
for Free Movement 

Pull the vent valve flyweight and valve to its outer 
limit of travel. The spring should pull the valve and 
flyweight into its inner limit of travel when released, 
without any drag. If any sticking or excessive looseness 
between the valves and housing is noticed, disassemble 



the valves as follows: Pull the vent valve to its outer 
limit of travel and remove the small snap ring holding 
the flyweight. Remove the flyweight. 




VENT 
VALVE 



Figure 38— A Disassembled Governor 

Remove the snap ring holding the valve support in 
place. Remove the valve support, outlet valve and 
springs. The governor valve may be removed through 
the vent valve support opening. Clean and lay out 
the governor parts in the same manner as they are 
installed in the governor. 



CLEANING AND INSPECTION 



Clean all the transmission parts, including the oil 
pan and screen, in a solvent cleaner such as unleaded 
gasoline, naphtha or carbon tetrachloride. Do not soak 
the transmission rear ball bearing in the solvent. Wipe 
it with a clean, lintless cloth. 

The control valve and hydraulic governor parts 
should be washed with a solvent in a separate container 
than that used for the rest of the transmission parts. 

Dry all parts with clean, dry, compressed air. Blow 
out all the oil passages. Lay out the clean, dry, parts on 
a clean piece of paper or lintless cloth. 

Caution: Do not try to clean the oil passages 
and port openings by forcing a piece of wire or 
drill in the openings, since this would damage 
these metered openings and affect the calibration 
of the valves. 

Inspect all gears for wear, chipped teeth, scores, pits, 
nicks and burrs. Inspect the input shaft bearing surfaces 
and splines for wear and scores. Inspect the planetary 
pinion shafts and output shaft for wear, scores and pits. 
Inspect the planetary cage halves for a snug accurate 
fit. Replace any parts that do not come up to inspection 
requirements with new parts. 




Figure 39— Inspecting the Gears for Wear, Scores, 
Nicks, and Chips 

Inspect all bearings, races, and thrust washers for 
scores, roughness, flat spots, or looseness due to wear. 
Install new bearings, races, or thrust washers when 
necessary. If the ball bearings are in good condition, 
do not wash them nor soak them in cleaning solvent. 
Wipe them with a clean, lintless cloth. 



13 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 




Figure 40— Inspecting Bearings and Thrust Washers 
for Wear, Scores, Pits, and Chips 

Inspect the drums for wear, scores, cracks and nicks. 
Be sure to inspect the low range drum clutch plate 
splines and inner hub surfaces. Inspect the reverse drum 
gear for wear, scores, nicks, and burrs. Inspect the pilot 
bearing. 

Inspect the low range and reverse bands for wear, 
scores and out-of-round. Replace with new bands if 
necessary. 

Inspect the clutch plates for proper wave, wear, 
scores, burrs, and nicks. Inspect the clutch hub thrust 
plate. Install a new set of clutch plates if necessary. 




Figure 41— Inspecting the High Range Clutch Plates 
for Wear, Scores, and Being Burned 

Inspect the pistons for wear, scores, nicks, and burrs. 
Inspect the ring lands for looseness and burrs. Inspect 
the fast-acting inner pistons and vent valves. Replace 
any parts that do not come up to inspection require- 
ments with new parts. 

Measure the ring gap of the high range piston rings. 
The gap should be .003" to .012". Inspect the cyl- 




Figure 42— Measuring the Piston Ring Gap 

inders for wear, ridges, scores and pits. Inspect the low 
range and reverse cylinder bodies. Install new parts if 
necessary. 







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Figure 43— A Front Oil Pump Disassembled 
for Inspection 

Inspect the front and rear oil pump rotors for wear, 
pits, and scores. Inspect the outer surface of the outer 
pump rotor and pump body for wear, and scores. Re- 
place with new parts if necessary. 

Inspect the lower valve body and control valve for 
binding, looseness, wear, scores, gouges, or pits. A very 
close clearance must be maintained between the valve 
and valve body to prevent loss of oil pressure. How- 
ever, the control valve must be able to slip in and out 
of the body by its own weight. If the valve and body 
do not come up to inspection requirements, install 
new parts. 

Measure all the bores in the valve bodies with plug 
gauges PU-324, as shown in figure 44. Install new valve 
bodies if they do not come up to specifications. 

Inspect the contact surfaces of the lower body, sepa- 
rator plate and upper body for evidence of oil leaks 



14 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 





Figure 44— Measuring the Valve Body Bores 



Figure 45— The Governor Disassembled for Inspection 



between passages, which might indicate that the body 
may be uneven or have low spots. Remove the low 
spots by rubbing the valve body on a surface plate or 
plate glass using number 400-A wet or dry sandpaper 
soaked in kerosene. 

Inspect the throttle valve and plunger for free opera- 
tion, looseness, wear, and scores. Inspect the modulating 
valve and direct drive clutch shift valve for free 
operation, looseness, wear and scores. 

These valves should always be free enough to move 
by their own weight through their entire length of 
travel. Replace the valves and lower valve body with 
new parts if necessary. 

Inspect the bell housing for proper fit of the front 
pump relief valve. Inspect the valve and spring. Install 
new parts if necessary. 

Inspect the hydraulic governor and vent valves for 
free movement, looseness, wear, scores, and burrs. In- 
spect the governor housing and valve support. Inspect 
the condition of the governor drive shaft, drive gear 
and adapter for wear, scores, and looseness. Replace any 



parts that do not come up to inspection requirements 
with new parts. 

Inspect the control valve operating lever, shaft, and 
linkage for wear and looseness. Inspect the condition 
of the detent and detent wells in the selector inner lever. 
Inspect the condition of the starter safety switch. Install 
new parts if necessary. 

Inspect the throttle valve operating lever and shaft 
for free movement and looseness. The throttle valve and 
linkage must operate freely and without wobbly move- 
ment. Install new parts if necessary to obtain the desired 
operation. 

Inspect the parking gear, lever, pawl, and linkage for 
wear, chips, broken teeth, rounded corners, and burrs. 
Install new parts if necessary. 

Inspect and clean all oil passages with compressed air. 
Do not use a drill or wire for cleaning passages. Do not 
enlarge the passages, ports, nor orifices under any 
circumstances. 

Be sure to keep all parts clean. 



UNIT ASSEMBLY 



Note: Be sure to use new oil seals and a complete 
set of gaskets. Do not open the hermetically sealed 
cellophane gasket envelope until the gaskets are to 
be used. The composition of the gaskets is such 
that it absorbs the moisture from the air, which 
expands the gaskets. If the gaskets have expanded 
and do not fit the transmission or converter sur 
faces, dry them out in an electric oven at a 
temperature of 175°F to 200°F. The drying will 
shrink the gaskets back to normal size. Do not use 



a gas heated oven to dry the gaskets since there is 
a great amount of moisture emitted from gas com- 
bustion that would be absorbed by the gaskets. 

Transmission Case Assembly 

Before installing any units into the transmission case, 
be sure to install the following detail parts into the 
case first. 

Install the parking gear lever, pawl, and linkage. 



15 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 




Figure 46— Installing the Parking Gear Pawl 

Install the low range band lever and pivot pin. Install 
the reverse band lever and pivot pin. 

Install the throttle valve operating cross shaft seal in 
the case. Install the throttle valve inner operating lever 
and shaft. Install the woodruff key and outer lever. 
Lock the lever with the clamp bolt. 




Figure 47— Installing the Band Levers and Pivot Pins 

Install a new control valve cross shaft oil seal in the 
transmission case. Install the inner end of the cross 
shaft into the case, carefully working it through the seal 
so that the seal isn't damaged. Install the selector detent 
sector. Install the control valve inner lever and parking 
lever spring-loaded cam. Lock the inner operating lever 
in place with the lock screw and nut. Install the selec- 
tor detent. 

Install the starter safety switch. Install the converter 
outlet valve. 
Hydraulic Governor Assembly 

Install the governor drive shaft and flange into the 
adapter. Press on the driving gear. Be sure the shaft 




Figure 48— Measuring the Governor Shaft End Play 

turns freely, and there is .010" to .018" end play be- 
tween the driving gear and adapter. If a new shaft was 
installed, drill a y 8 " pin hole in the new shaft and press 
in a new pin. 




Figure 49— Assembling the Governor 

Install the governor valve in the governor housing, 
small end out. Make sure the valve operates freely in 
the housing. Install the governor valve spring. 

Install the vent valve and spring. Press in the vent 
valve support and install the support snap ring. Try 
the vent valve for free movement, by pulling out on the 
valve and releasing. The spring should push the 
valve in. 

Install the vent valve flyweight and snap ring. Install 
the governor housing assembly on the drive shaft flange 
and attach securely with the two cap screws. Torque 
tighten to 6 foot pounds. Make sure the housing seats 
firmly and evenly on the drive shaft flange. 



16 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Control Valve Assembly 

Install the converter inlet valve and spring, the pump 
selector valve and spring, and the pump check valve 
in the forward end of the upper valve body. Install the 
retaining plate and screws. Be sure all valves operate 
freely. 




Figure 50— Installing the Pump Selector Valve 



Install the direct drive clutch shift valve through the 
rear end of the bore in the lower valve body. Install 
the stop pin at the center of the bore. Install the modu- 
lating valve and guide. Install the retaining pin. 

Install the direct drive shift valve piston at the rear 
end of the bore. Install the retaining plate and screws. 
Be sure the valves operate freely. They should fall by 
their own weight when turned from end to end. 




Figure SI— Installing the Timing Valve 

Install the timing valve and spring. Be sure the valve 
operates freely. Install the retaining plate and screws. 

Install the control valve and link, using a slight 
twisting motion. 



Install the throttle valve, piston, spacer, spring, and 
seat. Install the seat attaching screws and tighten evenly. 
Be sure valve operates freely. 

Assemble the upper and lower valve bodies and 
separator plate. Be sure the correct length screws are 
installed in their proper positions. Torque tighten the 
cap screws to 6 foot pounds. 

Install the low range and reverse the piston upper 
seal and retaining rings in the upper valve body. 




Figure 52— Installing the Low Range Piston 
in the Cylinder Body 

Assemble the fast acting pistons, seats, and retainers 
in the low range and reverse pistons. Install the seals 
on the pistons. Moisten the seals with Ultramatic Drive 
oil and install the pistons in the cylinder body (pis- 
ton cover). 

Assemble the pistons and cylinder bodies to the con- 
trol valve upper body. Be sure the piston does not 
damage the upper seal. Attach the cylinder bodies with 
the round head Phillips screws. 

Reactor Over-Running Clutch 




Figure 53 — Installing the Reactor Over-Running 
Clutch Sprag Spreader Spring 



17 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



The reactof over-funning clutch should not be dis- 
assembled. However, if it should accidentally come 
apart, it may be assembled in the following manner: 

Hold the inner race with the front face toward you. 
Install the sprags so that the curved side of the sprags 
at the top is toward the left and the curved side of the 
sprags at the bottom is to the right. 

Hold the sprags around the inner race with a strong 
rubber band. Be sure the sprags lean counterclockwise 
at the top. Install the coil spreader spring at each end 
of the sprags. 

Carefully install the over-running clutch into the 
housing, letting the housing slip off the rubber band. 
Be sure the spreader springs are in place. When the 
over-running clutch is assembled, be sure the inner race 
will rotate clockwise from the front and will lock up 
when attempting to rotate it counterclockwise. 

Front Oil Pump Assembly 

Place the pump rear plate on the reactor over-running 
clutch housing, with the journal end of the reactor 
clutch housing down. Place the pump body in the cor- 
rect position on the rear plate. Be sure all oil passages 
line up. 

Install the outer rotor in the pump body. Install the 
inner rotor with the inner groove down, with the center- 
ing ring in place. In the correct position, the rotors 
mesh at the bottom. 




Figure 54— Assembling the Front Oil Pump 

Install the pump front plate. Be sure all oil passages 
line up. Hold the plate and pump body in alignment 
with two reactor clutch housing cap screws. Install the 
two pump attaching screws and torque tighten to 8 to 9 
foot pounds. 

Rear Oil Pump Assembly 

Place the rear oil pump body with the reverse drum 
bearing journal down. Install the outer rotor. Install 




Figure 55— Assembling the Rear Oil Pump 

the inner rotor. The output shaft will automatically line 
up the inner rotor. Install the rear plate and two attach- 
ing screws. Tighten the screws evenly. 

Bell Housing Assembly 

Install the front pump relief valve. Be sure it operates 
freely in the bore of the bell housing. Install the relief 
valve retaining plug. Install the relief valve spring 
and plug. 




Figure 56— Installing the Front Pump Relief Valve 

Install the front oil pump and reactor over-running 
clutch into the bell housing. Be sure the oil passages 
line up. Install the eight cap screws and tighten evenly 
to a torque tightness of 15 to 18 foot pounds. 

Install all oil passage plugs and tighten securely. 
Install a new converter pump shaft seal in the bell 
housing. 

High Range Clutch Assembly 

Install the high range clutch piston outer ring on the 
piston. Install the inner ring on the journal of the low 



18 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 




Figure 57— Installing the High Range Clutch 
Piston Ring 

range drum hub. Centralize the inner piston ring on the 
low range drum hub. 




Figure 58— Installing the High Range Clutch Piston 

Install the high range clutch piston in the cylinder 
of the low range drum, using a ring compressor PU-314, 
to guide the outer ring into position. 




Figure 59— Compressing fhe High Range Clufch 
Spring, Using Compressor PU-304-H 



Install the clutch release spring so that one end seats 
in the clutch piston. Using clutch spring compressing 
tool PU-304, compress the clutch spring. Install the 
retainer and snap ring. Remove the spring compress- 
ing tool. 




Figure 60— Installing the Clutch Hub Snap Ring 

Coat the clutch hub thrust washer with clean cup 
grease and install it in place. Install a snap ring on the 
input shaft ahead of the clutch hub. Install the clutch 
hub and thrust washer. Install the rear snap ring. Install 
the clutch hub and input shaft in the low range drum. 

Install the clutch driving and driven plates, installing 
each alternately, starting with a steel plate. 




Figure 61 — Installing the High Range Clutch Plates 

Install the front sun gear and flange. Install the re- 
taining snap ring. Be sure it is seated correctly in place. 

Planetary Unit Assembly 

Assemble the planetary pinions, spacers, and roller 
bearings on each corresponding shaft. Be sure the 
chamfered end of the pinion is opposite the Woodruff 
key end of the shaft. Each planetary pinion has 38 roll- 



19 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 




Figure 62— The Roller Bearings Are Installed With 
the Shaft and Spacer in Place 

ers, 19 at each end, separated by a spacer. Hold the 
rollers in place with clean cup grease. Install the plane- 
tary pinion thrust washers. 




Figure 63— Installing the Long Planetary Pinions 

Grip the output shaft in a soft jawed vise in a hori- 
zontal position. Install the long planetary pinion assem- 
blies in the planetary cage with the chamfered ends to 
the front. Push the shafts far enough rearward to insert 
the Woodruff keys, then push the shafts forward so the 
keys will lock the shafts. 

Install the rear thrust washer in the cage, holding it 
in place with clean cup grease. Install the rear sun gear 
in the planetary cage. Be sure the thrust washer seats in 
the cage. 

Install the short planetary pinion assemblies in the 
planetary cage with the chamfered end to the front; 
push the shafts to the rear and insert the Woodruff 
keys; then push the shafts forward so the keys will lock 
the shafts. Be sure all the thrust washers are in place. 




Figure 64— Installing the Rear Sun Gear 

Install the front half of the planetary cage. Be sure 
the marks line up. Install the lock plate and the attach- 
ing cap screws. 




Figure 65— Assembling the Planetary Cage 

Torque tighten the larger cap screws to 25 to 30 foot 
pounds. Torque tighten the small cap screws to 15 to 18 
foot pounds. Bend over the tabs of the lock plate. 



20 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



UNIT INSTALLATION 



Planetary Unit Installation 

Install the rear oil pump. Be sure the oil passages 
line up. Attach the pump with the cap screws and torque 
tighten evenly to 15 to 18 foot pounds. 



12 TO 15 
FOOT POUNDS 




Figure 66— Torque Tightening the Rear Oil Pump 
Cap Screws 

Coat the reverse drum thrust washer with clean cup 
grease and place it in position over the rear oil pump 
body journal. Install the reverse band. 




Figure 67— Installing the Reverse Band Sfrufs 

Install the reverse band struts. Install the band lever 
holding fixture PU-308. Install the reverse drum, being 
careful not to score the reverse drum bushing. 




Figure 68— Installing the Planetary Unit 

Install a new seal ring on the output shaft. Lubricate 
the ring and output shaft with a film of Ultramatic 
Drive fluid. Install the entire planetary unit and output 
shaft through the front end of the transmission case. 
Be sure the seal ring has entered the front bore of the 
rear pump body and the planetary unit is all the way 
back. 




Figure 69— Installation of 'he Speedometer Gear 
and Spacers 

Install the speedometer driving gear sleeve, spring, 
and front spacer with the smooth face against the 
speedometer driving gear. Install the speedometer 
driving gear. Install the rear spacer with the grooved 
face against the gear. 

Assemble the rear housing and extension shaft. Press 
the rear ball bearing into the rear end of the rear 
housing. Install the snap ring. Press in the rear oil seal. 
Install the extension shaft. Be sure the shaft is pressed 



21 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



all the way in until the shoulder is against the bearing 
inner race. Install the universal joint flange, washer, 
and nut. Tighten the nut securely to 90 foot pounds 
torque. 




Figure 70— Torque Tightening the Universal 
Joint Flange Nut 

Put film of Ultramatic Drive fluid on the parking 
gear hub and temporarily install the parking gear in 
the forward end of the housing, omitting the thrust 
spring. This is necessary to make an accurate measure- 
ment to determine the correct thickness thrust washer to 
be used between the high range clutch housing and the 
reactor clutch housing. 

Install the rear housing and gasket. Install and 
tighten the attaching cap screws to 15 to 18 foot pounds. 

Install the hydraulic governor. Install the adapter 
attaching cap screws and tighten evenly to 8 to 9 foot 
pounds. Using a new cover gasket, install the governor 
cover and attaching cap screws. Tighten the cover cap 
screws evenly to 8 to 9 foot pounds. 

Install the speedometer drive pinion and retainer. 




High Range Clutch Installation 

Install the low range band. Install the rear sun gear 
front thrust ball bearing. Hold it in place with clean 
cup grease. 

Install the high range clutch unit. Be sure it is all 
the way back, with the front sun gear in mesh with the 
planetary pinkfns and seated against the rear sun gear 
thrust ball bearing. 




Figure 72— Installing the High Range Clutch 

Install the low range band struts. Install the band 
lever holding fixture PU-308. After the high range 
clutch, low range band, and struts are installed, rotate 
the unit in the work stand until the forward end of 
the transmission case faces up. Be sure the planetary 
unit and output shaft butts tightly against the rear 
extension shaft. 




Figure 71— Installing the Low Range Band 



Figure 73— Setting the Micrometer Index 



22 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Place the bell housing on the bench with the forward 
side down. Using gauge PU-302, measure the distance 
from the machined rear face of the bell housing to the 
milled surface at the rear face of the reactor over- 
running clutch housing. Lock the gauge cylinder in 
this position. 




Figure 74— Micrometer Reading Will Determine 
Thickness of the Thrust Washer Required 

Using the other end of gauge PU-302, measure the 
distance from the forward face of the high range clutch 
housing (low range drum) thrust surface to the milled 
front face of the transmission case. Observe the microm- 
eter reading. This measurement determines the correct 
thickness of thrust washer to be used. The thrust wash- 
ers are available in .010" variations starting with .085" 
to .135". Select a thrust washer .010" less in thickness 
than the micrometer reading. 

Caution: Be sure the gasket is removed when the 
measurement is taken on the bell housing and the 
transmission case. With the correct thrust washer 
being used, the gasket, when installed, will pro- 
vide the necessary end clearance of .018" to .028". 




Figure 75— Torque Tightening the Bell Housing 
Cap Screws 



After the measurements have been taken and the 
correct thrust washer selected, coat the thrust washer 
with clean cup grease and stick it in place. Using a new 
gasket, install the bell housing. Install the attaching cap 
screws and torque tighten evenly to 55 to 60 foot 
pounds. 




Figure 76— Installing the Parking Gear and 
Extension Shaft Thrust Spring 

Rotate the transmission in the stand to place the 
shafts in a horizontal position. Remove the rear housing. 
Install the extension shaft to parking gear thrust spring. 
Install the rear housing and gasket. Install and tighten 
the attaching cap screws to 15 to 18 foot pounds. 

Control Valve Installation and 
Adjustment 




Figure 77— Notice Location of the Longest Bolt 
When Installing Valve Assembly 

Install the control valve. Be sure the collar of the 
throttle valve slips onto the throttle valve operating 
lever. Install the attaching cap screws in their proper 
positions. Note the longest cap screw belongs in the 
position indicated in the illustration. Do not install the 
two screen attaching cap screws at this time. Tighten 
the cap screws evenly to a torque tightness of 9 foot 



23 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



pounds. Connect the control valve link to the inner 
lever. Install the spring lock. 




Figure 78— Torque Tightening the Detent Sector 
Clamp Bolt 

Set the detent sector in the reverse position. Using 
gauge PU-316-B, set the control valve so the rear land 
is % 6 " out of the valve body. Tighten the inner lever 
clamp bolt to 50 foot pounds torque. 

Oil Screen and Pan Installation 

Install the oil screen. Tighten the attaching cap 
screws to 9 foot pounds torque. Remove the band lever 
hold-down fixtures PU-308. Using a new gasket, install 
the transmission oil pan and torque tighten the attach- 
ing cap screws to 10 to 12 foot pounds. 



Band Adjustments 

The band anchors may be adjusted by turning the 
anchor adjusting screws clockwise to a torque tight- 
ness of 20 foot pounds, then back off 1% turns. Be sure 
to tighten the anchor adjusting screw lock nuts. 




Figure 79— Adjusting the Reverse Band 

Install the converter on the input shaft. Be sure all 
splines are engaged and the converter pump shaft has 
entered the front pump rotor. Fasten the converter to 
the bell housing to prevent it from falling off. 

Caution: Be sure to place at least 7 quarts of fluid 
in the transmission before the engine is started, 
putting the last quart in more slowly than the 
previous 6. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE INSTALLATION 

After the transmission and converter have been prop- 
erly serviced, place the transmission and lift under the 
car, locating them in approximately the correct position. 



Tilt the forward end down, and raise the lift and 
transmission until the rear end can enter the center of 
the frame "X" member. Move the transmission and 




Figure 80— Raising the Ultramatic Drive with a 
Hydraulic Lift 




Figure 81 —Adjusting the Lift so the Ultramatic 
Drive Lines Up 



24 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



lift to the tear until the universal joint flange enters 
the center of the frame "X" member. 

Raise the transmission up and level it until the bell 
housing is in line with the flywheel upper housing. Be 
sure the converter drain plug lines up with the opening 
in the flywheel. 




Figure 82— Converter Drain Plugs Must Line Up 
With the Openings 

Install two pilot studs in the forward side of the 
clutch housing to guide it onto the flywheel. Slide the 
transmission forward until the clutch housing pilot 
enters the bore in the crankshaft and the bell housing 
contacts the flywheel upper housing. Adjust the lift 
until the bell housing contacts the flywheel housing 
evenly. Install the bell housing to flywheel housing cap 
screws and tighten evenly to 25 to 30 foot pounds. 




Figure 83— Torque Tightening the Flywheel 
Cap Screws 

Pry the converter forward with a wooden hammer 
handle until the clutch housing contacts the flywheel. 
Remove the pilot studs, install the flywheel to clutch 
housing cap screws, and torque tighten to 25 to 30 foot 
pounds. 




Figure 84— Installing the Two Bell Housing 
Upper Cap Screws 

Remove the transmission lift. Lower the engine and 
Ultramatic Drive until the universal joint flange almost 
rests on the lower side of the frame "X" member. 
Install the two extreme upper bell housing to flywheel 
housing cap screws and tighten to 25 to 30 foot pounds. 
Raise the engine to its normal height. 

Install the flywheel lower housing. Install the attach- 
ing cap screws and torque tighten to 25 to 30 foot 
pounds. Install and tighten the exhaust pipe bracket. 
Tighten the exhaust pipe flange. 




Figure 85— Installing the Engine Rear Support 
Cross Member 

Install the rear engine mounting insulator and sup- 
port cross member. Install the cross member to frame 
"X" member cap screws, and tighten to 25 to 30 foot 
pounds. Lower the engine until its weight rests on 
the rear mounting insulator, and torque tighten the 
insulator to cross member attaching nuts to 25 to 30 
foot pounds. Remove the jack or auxiliary support beam 
from under the engine. 



25 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 





Figure 86— Connecting the Rear Oil Line 

Connect the oil cooler lines. Connect the speed- 
ometer cable. Connect the starter safety switch. Con- 
nect the hand brake cable. Install the propeller shaft. 
Connect the universal joints. Tighten the attaching nuts 
to 25 to 30 foot pounds. Be sure they are properly 
locked. 

Connect and adjust the selector control linkage. Con- 
nect the throttle valve linkage and adjust properly. 

Install 7 quarters of Ultramatic Drive Fluid in the 
transmission, putting in the last quart more slowly than 
the previous 6. Start and operate the engine at approxi- 



Figure 87— Installing the Universal Joint 
Bearing Retainer 

mately 800 rpm for 2 minutes to fill the converter. Stop 
the engine and add approximately 5 quarts of fluid to 
bring the level up to the full mark. Start and operate 
the engine at 800 rpm for one minute to be sure the 
converter is filled. Stop the engine and recheck the 
fluid level. 

With the car on the stands or twin post lift, test the 
operation of the converter and transmission. If the 
operation is satisfactory, remove the stands and lower 
the car to the floor. Road test the car to be sure the 
converter and transmission operates satisfactorily and 
quietly, before the car is delivered to its owner. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE ADJUSTMENTS 



Engine Idle 




control linkage and throttle linkage should oper- 
ate freely. Accurate adjustments cannot be made 
with worn or binding linkage. Replace the link- 
age with new parts if they are worn, and free up 
all points of pivot before atempting to make a 
correct adjustment. 



Figure 88— Adjusting the Engine Idle 
Caution: The engine and transmission should be 
properly warmed up, and the engine should be 
idling properly at 375 rpm in high range (H) 
with the hand brake on before any other adjust- 
ments are made on the Ultramatic Drive. The 




Figure 89— Adjusting Cross Shaft to Carburetor Rod, 
Using Gauge PU-364 



26 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Throttle Cross Shaft to Carburetor Rod 

This adjustment requires the use of a new gauge, 
PU-364, which differs from the gauge used prior to 
24th Series. 

After the engine has been warmed up and properly 
idled, place the new gauge, PU-364, on the milled sur- 
faces on top of the cylinder head and directly ahead 
of the bracket supporting the cross shaft. When the 
carburetor throttle rod is properly adjusted, the end of 
the short bend at the rear end of the rod will protrude 
through the hole in the cross shaft lever and enter the 
hole in the gauge. See figure 89. The rod can be length- 
ened or shortened by loosening the lock nut and turning 
the spring-loaded throttle over-ride. This adjustment 
determines the proper length of the throttle rod and the 
correct angle of the cross shaft lever. 

Throttle Valve Lever 



Accelerator Relay to Cross Shaft 
Lever Rod 




Figure 90 — Adjusting Throttle Valve Lever 

Disconnect the relay rod from the throttle valve lever 
at the right rear side of the transmission. Loosen the 
lever clamp screw enough so that the lever will rotate 
the shaft but still turn on the shaft. Rotate the lever 
forward (toward front of car) until it is in a horizontal 
position. Rotate the lever in the opposite direction (to- 
ward rear of car) until the valve is closed and against 
the throttle valve spring. Do not compress the spring. 



Without compressing the spring, rotate the lever still 
further toward the rear until a piece of rod or a pin 
% 6 " in diameter can be inserted through the holes in 
the lever and the relay rod. See figure 90. Continue 
rotating the lever toward the rear until the pin becomes 
snug in the holes. Tighten the lever clamp screw and 
then connect the relay rod using the clevis pin which 
was previously removed. 




Figure 91 —Checking the Clearance at the 
Spring-Loaded Stop 

Adjust the accelerator relay lever to throttle cross 
shaft rod, so when the carburetor throttle valves are 
wide open the cam on the accelerator cross shaft lever 
will come within .030" to .050" of the spring-loaded 
stop. See figure 91. 

Selector Control Linkage 




Figure 92— Measuring the Distance at the Selector 
Lever Stop 

Place the steering column selector lever in the low 
range (L) position. Be sure the detent plunger goes 
into the notch on the sector. 



27 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Adjust the selector rod turnbuckle so the steering 
column lever s:op is .030" to .040" away from the stop 
on the bracket. Tighten the turnbuckle lock nuts. Re- 
check the lever in other positions. "N" neutral, "R" 
reverse, and "P" park, should be possible without 
permanent overtravel when contacting stops. 



Low Range and Reverse Bands 

Loosen the band anchor adjusting screw lock nut. 
Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to a torque tight- 
ness of 20 foot pounds. Back off the adjusting screw 
1% turns and tighten the locknut to a torque tightness 
of 25 to 30 foot pounds. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE MAINTENANCE 

Checking the Fluid Level 

Packard Ultramatic Drive Fluid should be used, or 



any type "A" automatic transmission fluid which has an 
AQ-ATF number embossed on the top of the can may 
be used. 




Figure 93— Checking fhe Fluid Level 



The Ultramatic Drive Fluid level should be checked 
with the transmission control lever in the neutral ("N") 
position within one minute after the engine has been 
allowed to operate at 800 rpm for at least one minute. 
To check the fluid level, turn the filler tube cap located 




on the left side of the unit approximately y 2 turn 
counterclockwise, and remove the cap and dipstick. Add 
fluid to bring the level up to the full mark on the 
dipstick. 

Fluid may be added through the filler tube from 
the underside of the car by using an oil gun or pump 
with a flexible hose or curved spout. 

If an oil gun or pump is not available and it is neces- 
sary to pour the fluid in, the filler hole plug in the 
upper rear end of the unit may be reached through the 
floor by folding over the rear corner of the front floor 
mat and removing the filler hole cover from the floor 
transmission cover. Be sure to recheck the level after 
fluid is added. 

If frequent addition of fluid is required in the trans- 
mission, inspect the transmission and converter to locate 
the fluid leak. Correct the fluid leak and bring the fluid 
up to the full mark. The transmission fluid level should 
be checked at 1,000 mile intervals. 

Changing the Transmission and 
Converter Fluid 

The transmission and converter should be drained and 
refilled regularly at 25,000 mile intervals. The draining 
and refilling is accomplished as follows: 




Figure 94— Filling the Ultramatic Drive with Fluid 



Figure 95— Draining the Converter and the 
Transmission 



28 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Remove the front lower flywheel housing. Loosen 
one converter drain plug so it may act as a vent. Rotate 
the flywheel 180° (one-half turn) until the other drain 
plug is at the lowest point. Place a shallow 4-gallon 
container under the flywheel and remove the converter 
drain plug. If the container is long enough to reach 
under the transmission at the same time, remove the 
transmission drain plug. Otherwise, drain the transmis- 
sion after the converter has drained. 

Install and tighten all drain plugs. Install the lower 
flywheel housing. 



To refill, install 7 quarts of fluid in the transmis- 
sion, putting the last quart in more slowly than the 
previous 6. Start and operate the engine at approxi- 
mately 800 rpm for 2 minutes to fill the converter. Stop 
the engine and add approximately 5 quarts of fluid to 
bring the level up to the full mark. Start and operate 
the engine at 800 rpm for one minute to be sure the 
converter is filled. Recheck the fluid level. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE HYDRAULIC TESTS 



Ccution* Do not disassemble any unit or assembly 
until the oil level is checked and filled to level, the 
car road tested, a hydraulic unit pressure test 
made, an accurate and precise diagnosis made, and 
the cause of the complaint definitely located or 
established. Too many times a unit or assembly is 
disassembled, and when the inspection is made, 
the cause of the complaint cannot be found be 
cause the clue or evidence of the cause of the 
complaint has been lost or destroyed. 

Fluid Level 

The fluid level should be checked and brought up to 
the full mark before any further diagnosis is made. 
Low fluid level can be the cause of many complaints, 
ranging from excessive noise to a noticable slip in any 
or all of the operating ranges. 

Road Test 

After the fluid level is brought up to the full mark, 
road test the car to determine if correcting the fluid 
level has corrected the complaint. The road test will 
also warm up the engine and transmission to operating 
temperature necessary to make an accurate pressure test. 

Drive the car with frequent stops and starts at low 
speed, accelerating, and at medium speeds, similar to the 
conditions that would exist in driving in heavy traffic 
and highway driving. After the engine and transmis- 
sion are thoroughly warmed up, and the non-standard 
operation noted, make a hydraulic pressure test as out- 
lined below. 

Hydraulic Pressure Test 

To diagnose and isolate the cause of the faulty opera- 
tion, a pressure test should be made of the following 
hydraulic units: 

(1) Front pump regulated pressure. 

(2) High range clutch pressure. 

(3) Direct drive clutch pressure. 

(4) Front pump relief valve boost pressure. 

(5) Hydraulic governor pressure. 

(6) Converter inlet pressure. 



(7) Throttle valve pressure. 

(8) Low range application pressure. 

(9) Reyerse application pressure. 

A pressure gauge calibrated from to 100 p.s.i., and 
flexible line.48" long with a l/ 8 " elbow fitting may be 
used for all the pressure tests except the reverse appli- 
cation test. A %" to l/ 8 " pipe reducer may be used 
when making the front pump regulated pressure test. 
A pressure gauge calibrated to 200, or to 300 p.s.i., 
must be used for the reverse application test. 

Preparation 




Figure 96—Ultramatic Drive Pressure Tesf Gauges 
in Position for Test 

Raise the front floor mat and remove the transmis- 
sion filler plug cover from the floor panel to permit 
entry of pressure gauge lines into front compartment 
where the pressure gauges can be seen while driving. 
Support the gauges in the front compartment as shown 
in figure 96. 

Front Pump Regulated Pressure Test 

Remove the %" pipe plug from the lower left side of 
the transmission bell housing. Insert a %" to i/ 8 " pipe 
reducer. Support the to 100 p.s.i. gauge from one of 
the fresh air ventilating system knobs. Connect the flex- 
ible pressure line from the gauge to the reducer. 



29 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 




Figure 97— Front Pump Regulated Pressure Test 



Start the engine and operate at 600 rpm. Observe 
the pressure reading on the gauge; the reading should 
be 80 to 90 pounds per square inch. If the reading does 
not come within this range, correct the condition as 
described in the Trouble Shooting and Corrective Meas- 
ures section of this manual. 

If the pressure reading is correct, remove the pressure 
gauge, flexible line and reducer. Install the %" pipe 
plug and continue with the other tests. 

High Range Clutch Pressure Test 

With the pressure gauge supported inside the front 
compartment, remove the y 8 " pipe plug at the center of 
the lower rear end of the transmission bell housing. 




This plug is located just to the right of the front pump 
outlet passage plug. Connect the pressure gauge flexible 
line to this opening. 

Road test the car. With the engine operating at idle, 
place the control lever in the ("H") high range posi- 
tion. Observe the reading on the gauge. The pressure 
should be approximately 35 to 43 p.s.i. with the throttle 
closed, and approximately 85 p.s.i. with the throttle 
wide open. Repeat this test, operating the car in low 
range at first and then shifting to high range. 

If the reading do not come within this range, correct 
the condition as described in the Trouble Shooting and 
Corrective Measures section of this manual. If the read- 
ings are correct, disconnect the flexible line and install 
the l / 8 " pipe plug. Continue with the other tests. 

Direct Drive Clutch Pressure 

With the pressure gauge supported inside the front 
compartment, remove the l/s" P*P e P' u g> ) ust to the 
right of the center of the lower rear end of the trans- 
mission bell housing. This plug is located just to the 
right of the high range passage plug. Connect the pres- 
sure gauge flexible line to the opening. 




Figure 98— High Range Clutch Pressure Test 



Figure 99— Direct Drive Clutch Pressure Test 

Road test the car at light throttle opening. At speeds 
between 15 to 18 m.p.h. steady driving and light engine 
load when the clutch engages, the reading on the gauge 
should be approximately 33 to 41 p.s.i. At full throttle 
engagement at approximately 56 m.p.h., the reading on 
the gauge should be approximately 85 p.s.i. 

If the readings do not come within this range, correct 



30 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



the condition as described in the Trouble Shooting and 
Corrective Measures section of this manual. If the read- 
ings are correct, disconnect the flexible line and install 
the Vg" pipe plug. Continue with the other tests. 

Front Pump Relief Valve Boost 
Pressure Test 

With the pressure gauge supported inside the front 
compartment, remove the 1/s" pipe plug at the lower 
right rear end of the transmission bell housing. Connect 
the pressure gauge flexible line to this opening. 

Start and operate the engine at 600 to 1,000 rpm. 
Observe the reading on the gauge. The pressure should 
be 65 to 75 p.s.i. If the reading does not come within 
this range, correct the condition as described in the 
Trouble Shooting and Corrective Measures section of 
this manual. If the reading is correct, disconnect the 
flexible line and install the 1/s" pip e P lu g- Continue 
with the other tests. 

Hydraulic Governor Pressure Test 

With the pressure gauge supported inside the front 
compartment, remove the l/ 8 " pipe plug at the right 
rear end of the transmission case, just to the rear of 
the hydraulic governor. Connect the gauge flexible line 
to this opening. 

Road test the car at various speeds above 15 m.p.h. 
Observe the reading on the pressure gauge. The read- 
ings at the various speeds should be in direct propor- 
tion to the car speed, and should come within the range 
of approximately 31 p.s.i. at 15 m.p.h., and 65 p.s.i. at 
56 m.p.h. 

If the readings do not register in direct proportion 
to car speed, or if they do not come within the specified 
range, correct the condition as described in the Trouble 
Shooting and Corrective Measures section of this 
manual. If the readings are correct, disconnect the flex- 
ible line and install the l/ 8 " pipe plug. Continue with 
the other tests. 

Converter Inlet Pressure Test 

With the pressure gauge supported inside the front 
compartment, remove the %" pipe plug at the upper 
left side of the bell housing. Connect the pressure gauge 
line to this opening. 

Start and operate the engine at 600 rpm. Observe the 
reading on the gauge. The pressure should be 65 to 80 
p.s.i. If the reading does not come within this range, 
correct the condition as described in the Trouble Shoot- 
ing and Corrective Measures section of this manual. If 
the reading is correct, disconnect the flexible line and 
install the l/g" pipe plug. Continue with the other tests. 

Note: The next three tests, including the throttle 
valve pressure, low range application pressure, and 
reverse application pressure, require the removal 



of the transmission oil pan to connect the flexible 
gauge lines. It is recommended for this test to use 
a three gauge panel to make all three tests at the 
same time. 




Figure 100— Converter Inlet Pressure Test 



However, a single gauge may be used, removing and 
installing the pan for each test. The pressure gauge 
flexible lines may be inserted into the transmission 
through the oil filler tube, and the test pan installed 
after they are connected to their respective openings. 

Caution: Be sure to use a gauge of 0-200 p.s.i. 
scale or higher for the reverse application test. 

The description of the following procedure is using 
a single gauge, however, a three gauge panel may be 
used following the same connection and test procedure. 

Throttle Valve Pressure Test 

With the pressure gauge supported in the front com- 
partment, drain the transmission oil and remove the oil 
pan. Remove the l/s" pip e pl u g from the throttle valve 
body located at the right side of the control valve 
lower body. 




Figure J 07— Throttle Valve Pressure Test 



31 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Insert the flexible gauge line through the oil filler 
tube and connect to the opening in the throttle valve 
body. Install the test pan, and pour the oil back into 
the transmission. 

Road test the car at various throttle openings. Ob- 
serve the readings on the gauge. They should be in 
direct proportion to the throttle opening, ranging from 
24 to 28 p.s.i. at closed throttle to 54 to 63 p.s.i. at 
full throttle. 

Compare the readings with those of the Throttle 
Valve and Modulated Pressure Chart in this manual. 
If the readings do not come within this range, correct 
the condition as described in the Trouble Shooting and 
Corrective Measures section of this manual. 

If the readings are correct, drain the transmission oil 
and remove the test pan. Disconnect the flexible line 
and install the Yg" pipe plug. Continue with the low 
range application pressure test. 

Low Range Application Pressure Test 

With the gauge supported in the front compartment, 
the flexible line inserted through the filler tube, and the 
oil pan removed, remove the y s " pipe plug from the 
low range cylinder body located at the right front end 
of the control valve upper body. 

Connect the flexible line to this opening. Install the 
test pan, and pour the oil back into the transmission. 

Road test the car under conditions similar to those of 
driving in heavy traffic, making frequent stops and 
starts in low range at low speed, accelerating, and shift 
into high range. Observe the readings on the pressure 
gauge. 

The readings should be from approximately 35 to 45 
p.s.i. when the low range band application starts at light 
throttle, to 80 to 90 p.s.i. at full throttle. If the read- 



ings do not come within this range correct th< condition 
as described in the Trouble Shooting jhU Corrective 
Measures section of this manual. 

If the readings are correct, drain the transmission oil 
and remove the test pan. Disconnect the flexible line 
and install the y$" pipe plug. Continue with the reverse 
application pressure test. 

Reverse Application Pressure Test 

Be sure to use a gauge of 0-200 p.s.i. minimum scale. 
With the gauge supported in the front compartment, 
the flexible line inserted through the filler tube, and the 
oil pan removed, remove the l/g" pipe plug from the 
reverse cylinder body located at the left rear end of 
the control valve upper body. 

Connect the flexible line to this opening. Install the 
test pan and pour the fluid into the transmission. 

Road test the car, making frequent stops and using 
reverse as it would be normally used. Observe the read- 
ing on the pressure gauge. The reading should be 150 
to 180 p.s.i. when the control lever is in reverse posi- 
tion and the engine operating at 1500 rpm. 

If the readings do not come within this range, correct 
the condition as described in the Trouble Shooting and 
Corrective Measures section of this manual. If the read- 
ings are correct, remove the flexible line and install the 
Vs" P*P e P m g- Using a new gasket, install the oil pan. 
Pour the fluid back into the transmission. 

If all pressure readings are correct and the transmis- 
sion is operating properly, start and idle the engine. 
Fill the transmission to the proper level with Packard 
Ultramatic Drive Fluid. Install the transmission inspec- 
tion cover in the floor panel. Install the front mat or 
carpet. Road test the car to be sure that the transmission 
is in normal operating condition before it is delivered 
to the owner. 



32 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



REGULATED PUMP PRESSURE CHART 



CONTROL VALVE 
POSITION 


PUMP PRESSURE 
P.S.I. 


REVERSE BRAKE 
PRESSURE P.S.I. 


LOW RANGE BRAKE 
PRESSURE P.S.I. 


HIGH RANGE 
CLUTCH 


DIRECT DRIVE 
CLUTCH 


Reverse 


160—180 
at 1 500 r.p.m. 


150— 180 
at 1 500 r.p.m. 


Off 


Off 


Off 


Low 


80— 90 


Off 


35—90 


Off 


33-90 


High 


80— 90 


Off 


Off 


35— 90 


33-90 


Neutral 


80— 90 


Off 


Off 


Off 


Off 


Park 


80— 90 


Off 


Off 


Off 


Off 



THROTTLE VALVE, MODULATED, AND GOVERNOR PRESSURE CHART 



THROTTLE VALVE 
SHAFT 
TRAVEL 


POSITION 

OF 
THROTTLE 


THROTTLE VALVE 
PRESSURE P.S.I. 


MODULATED 
PRESSURE P.S.I. 


GOVERVOR 
PRESSURE P.S.I. 


min. 


MAX. 


MIN. 


MAX. 


M.P.H. 


P.S.I. 


.050 

.770 

.885 

I.OOO 


Closed 
Throttle 

Full 
Throttle 

Start of 
Kickdown 

End of 
Kickdown 


24. 
54. 
80. 
80. 


28. 
62. 
90. 
90. 


36.9 

80. 
80. 


43.3 

90. 
90. 


15 
56 


29-33 
61-67 



33 



UiTRAMAIlC DRIVE 



TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



1 . Car fails to move regard- 
less of selector lever position. 
(Appears to be in neutral.) 



(a) Low oil level in transmission. 



CORRECTION 



(a) Check the oil level and bring up 
to full mark. 



(b) Clogged inlet screen to oil pumps. 



(b) Perform front pump pressure test. 
If little or no pressure is indicated, 
remove oil pan and screen. Clean the 
inlet screen. 



(c) Front oil pump relief valve stuck 
in the open position. This condition 
can be usually noted by a delayed opera- 
tion of the Ultramatic Drive after shift- 
ing from reverse to high range. 



(d) Pump selector valve stuck in the 
open position. 



(c) Perform pump pressure test. If 
little or no pressure is indicated, re- 
move the front oil pump relief valve 
and spring and correct cause of stick- 
ing condition. 

On early production units, install a 
Front Pump Relief Valve Spring Seat 
part number 423453, between the outer 
end of the relief valve spring and the 
retainer plug on the right side of the 
bell housing. Be sure the small end of 
the seat is inserted into the end of the 
spring. 

(d) Perform front pump pressure test. 
If little or no pressure is indicated and 
front pump relief valve is OK, remove 
the control valve assembly. Remove the 
pump selector valve and correct the 
cause of the sticking condition. 



(e) Selector control linkage discon- 
nected. 



(e) Inspect the selector cnotrol linkage. 
Connect and adjust the linkage. 



(f ) Broken axle shaft. 



(f) Jack up the car, and operate the 
engine with the selector lever in high 
range. If the propeller shaft rotates and 
the rear wheels do not, it is an indica- 
tion of a broken axle shaft. Install a new 
axle shaft. 



34 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES—Confinued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



I. Car fails to move regard- 
less of selector lever position. 
(Appears to be in neutral.) 
(continued) 



(g) Transmission output shaft (tail 
shaft) broken loose from the planetary 
cage. 






(h) Parking gear lever spring broken, 
allowing the pawi to remain engaged 
in the parking gear. 



CORRECTION 



(g) Jack up the car and operate JS.e 
engine with the selector lever m high 
range. Holding your left foot on ifae 
brake pedal accelerate the er. jut. If ths 
engine accelerates and «he propeller 
shaft does not rotate, it is as indicattM 
of an output shaft broker, loose f .om 
the planetary cage. If thi ccr» . ion 
exists, the test will be accompanLi by 
a grating noise in the transmission. 

(h) Jack up the car, and try to rotate 
the propeller shaft by hand. If the pro- 
peller shaft cannot be rotated, it is pos- 
sible that the parking gear pawl is still 
engaged. Remove the transmission rear 
bearing retainer, and remove the park- 
ing gear. Remove the oil pan and re- 
move the lever and spring. Install a 
new spring and reassemble. 



(i) Hand brake may be on. 

(j) Low and reverse bands adjusted 
too tight. 

(k) Bushings or bearings seized in the 
transmission. Noise may or may not be 
present, 

f. Car ffaHs to move regard- (1) If the parking gear pawl disen- 

less of shift lever position, gages, but the transmission is still 

Cent. {Rear Wheels locked locked up, it may be due to broken 

cas- cannot be moved.) parts within the transmission. 

2. Car fails to move in "high (a) Low oil level in the transmission. 
range." 

(b) Seleaor control linkage disron 
nected 01 out of adjustment. Check by 
moving the selector lever slightly to 
each side of the "W detent, 

(c) Loss of pressure to the hi;b range 
clutch piston. 



(i) Release the hand brake. 

(j) Adjust the low and reverse bands 
properly. 

(k) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
spect all bearings and bushings. Re- 
place all faulty parts. 

(1) Remove the transmission, disassem- 
ble, inspect and replace any damaged 
parts. 



(a) Check the oil level and bring up 
to full mark. 

(b) Connect the selector control link- 
age and adjust properly. 



(c) Perform hydraulic pressure £e,-.. If 
pressure i; not within limits, locat me 
cause of pressure leakage and correct. 
Check the condition of high lange 
clufrh piston rings. 



35 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



2. Car fails to move in "high 
range." (continued) 



3. Car fails to move in low 
range. Operation in high 
range and reverse satisfac- 
torily. 



(d) Sticking or inoperative modulating 
valve. 



(e) Burned or worn clutch plates. 



(a) Selector control linkage out of ad- 
justment. Check the adjustment by 
moving the selector lever slightly to 
either side of the low detent. 



CORRECTION 



(d) Perform hydraulic pressure test. If 
high range clutch pressure is extremely 
low, remove the transmission control 
assembly and free up the modulating 
valve. 

(e) If high range clutch pressure is 
OK but car still fails to move, the high 
range clutch plates are worn or burned. 
Disassemble the transmission and re- 
condition the high range clutch. 

(a) Adjust the selector control linkage 
properly. 



(b) Worn low range band, or broken 
end of band. 



(c) Band strut dropped out of posi- 
tion. 



(d) Low range apply piston jammed. 



(e) Vent for release side of the low 
range fast acting piston (automatic 
take-up) is closed. 



(b) Check the adjustment of low range 
band. If the screw goes in too far, the 
band is worn or has an end broken. 
Disassemble the transmission and in- 
stall a new band. 

(c) Check the adjustment of the low 
range band. If the screw goes in too 
far, strut may have dropped out of 
position. Remove transmission oil pan. 
Examine band struts. Install struts and 
adjust band. Install oil pan. 

(d) With the car on stands and the 
engine running, check the low range 
band adjusting screw for looseness 
when selector lever is in "L." If the 
screw is loose, the apply piston is prob- 
ably jammed. Remove the transmission 
oil pan. Remove the low range piston 
and cylinder body. Free up the piston 
or install necessary new parts. 

(e) Check by placing the selector con- 
trol lever in low range. With the en- 
gine running, allow several minutes to 
elapse, if the car shows tendency to 
move, it is an indication of faulty vent- 
ing. To correct, remove the low range 
piston and free up the vent valve in 
fast acting piston, or install new parts 
if necessary. 



36 



ULTRAMATEC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



3. Car fails to move in low 
range. Operation in high 
range and reverse satisfac- 
torily, (continued) 



(f) Timing valve stuck in the "high 
range" position. Car acts as if in 
neutral. 



4. Car will not move in re- 
verse, but operates satisfac- 
torily in low and high range. 



(a) Selector control linkage out of ad- 
justment. 



(b) Worn reverse band, or broken end 
of band. 






(c) Band strut dropped out of posi- 
tion. 



(d) Reverse apply piston jammed. 



5. Excessive slip in all ranges. ( a ) Low oil level in the transmission. 



(b) Selector control linkage out of 
adjustment. 



(f) To check for a sticking timing 
valve, disconnect the carburetor throttle 
link rod from the throttle cross shaft 
bell crank. Start and operate the engine 
at 800 r.p.m. and place the selector 
control lever in "L" position. Holding 
foot on the brake pedal push ac- 
celerator pedal to floor to increase the 
modulated pressure on the timing valve 
to free it. Connect the carburetor throt- 
tle link rod and try to operate the car 
in "low range." If the car will now 
operate in low range the timing valve 
is sticking. Remove the transmission 
oil pan and transmission control 
assembly. Disassemble and free up the 
timing valve. 

(a) Check the adjustment by moving 
selector control lever slightly to either 
side of the reverse detent. Adjust the 
selector control linkage. 

(b) Check the adjustment of the re- 
verse band. If the adjusting screw goes 
in too far, band is worn or end is 
broken. Disassemble the transmission 
and install a new band. 

(c) Check the adjustment of the re- 
verse band. If the screw goes in too far, 
the strut may have dropped out of 
position. Remove the transmission pan. 
Install the strut and adjust the band. 
Install the transmission oil pan. 

(d) With the car on stands and the 
engine running, check the reverse band 
adjusting screw for looseness when the 
selector control lever is in the "R" posi- 
tion. If the screw is loose, the reverse 
apply piston is probably jammed. 

Remove the transmission oil pan. Re- 
move the reverse piston and cylinder 
body. Free up the piston or install 
necessary new parts. 

(a) Check the oil level and bring up 
to full mark. 

(b) Adjust the selector control link- 
age. 



37 



ULTRAMATSC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



5. Excessive slip in all ranges. 
(Continued) 



©. Excessive 

range" only. 



slip 



"high 



(c) Low front oil pump pressure due 
to faulty front pump relief valve or 
spring. 



(d) Low front oil pump pressure due 
to faulty pump selector valve. 



(e) Low front oil pump pressure due 
to worn or scored rotors. 



(a) Control valve link out of adjust- 
ment. 

(b) Loss of pressure to the high range 
clutch. The leakage may be in the high 
range pressure passages, bushing in the 
low range drum, check valve in the 
reactor clutch housing, or in the high 
range clutch piston rings. 



(c) Perform front pump relief valve 
boost pressure test. If the pressure read- 
ing is below 65 p.s.i., at 800 r.p.m., the 
pump selector valve is at fault. If the 
boost pressure is 65 to 70 p.s.i. and the 
pump pressure is low, the front pump 
relief valve is at fault. Remove front 
pump relief valve and spring. Inspect 
valve and spring. Install new parts if 
necessary. 

(d) Perform front pump relief valve 
boost pressure test, as described in 
paragraph (c). If the pump selector 
valve is at fault, remove the transmis- 
sion oil pan and control assembly. Free 
up the pump selector valve, or install a 
new valve and spring if necessary. 

(e) If the pump selector and front 
pump relief valves are OK, but the 
front pump pressure is still low, the 
pump rotors may be worn or scored. 

Remove the transmission. Remove 
the bell housing from the transmission. 
Disassemble the front pump. Inspect 
the front pump rotors. If the rotors are 
worn or scored, install a new pump. 

(a) Readjust the control valve link 
properly. 

(b) Perform high range clutch pres- 
sure test. Locate and correct the cause 
of high range pressure leak. If pres- 
sure tests OK, the trouble is with the 
clutch itself. 



(c) High range clutch piston stuck in (c) Disassemble the transmission. Free 
the cylinder in the low range drum. up the high range clutch piston and 

install new rings. 



(d) High range clutch plates sticking 
on their splines. 



(d) Disassemble the transmission. Free 
up the clutch plates or install new 
clutch plates. 



(e) High range clutch plates worn or (e) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
burned, stall new clutch plates. 



38 



ULTStAMM SC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



7. Excessive slip in low range (a) Control valve iink out of 
only. merit. 

(b) Timing valve sticking. 



t- 






(c) Vent for the release side of fast 
acting piston closed. 






(d) Low range piston sticking in cylin- 
der body, or worn seals. 



(e) Band out of adjustment. 



(f) Low range band or drum worn, 
burned or scored. 



8. Excessive slip En ravtsrse (a) Control valve link out of adjust- 
only, ment. 

(b) Loss of pressure to reverse piston. 






(c) Lack of boost pressure to the pump 
selector valve. 






(d) Vent for the release side of fast 
acting piston closed. 



CORRECTION 



(a) Readjust the control valve link 
properly. 

(b) Perform pressure test. If the pres- 
sure builds up very slowly in low range 
cylinder body, the timing valve may be 

at fault. Free up the timing valve. 

(c) Allow several minutes to elapse 
with engine running and the selector 
lever in low range. If the slippage dis- 
appears, the vent foe release side of 
fast acting p«ston is at fault. Remove 
the low range piston and correct. 

(d) Remove the low range piston and 
cylinder body. Free up the piston and 
install new seals. 

(e) Adjust the low range band prop- 
erly. 

(f) If all other nests seem OK. Dis- 
assemble the transmission. Inspect the 
band and drum. Install new parts if 
necessary. 

(a) Readjust the control valve link 
properly. 

(b) Perform pressure test. Locate the 
leak in the reverse circuit and correct. 

(c) Perform ftont pump relief valve 
boost test in reverse. The pressure 
boost should be 155 p.s.i. at 800 to 
1000 r.p.m. If the pressure is low, 
check for obstruction or leak in the 
boost passage to the pump selector 
valve. 

(d) Allow several minutes to elapse 
with engine running and the selector 
lever in reverse. If the slippage dis- 
appears, the vent for the release side 
of the fast acting piston is at fault. 
Remove the reverse piston and correct. 



(e) Reverse piston sticking in the cyi- (e) Remove the reverse piston and 
inder body or worn seals. cylinder body. Free up the piston and 

install new seals. 



39 



ULTRAMATIC DSI8VE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



8. Excessive slip in reverse 
only, (continued) 



9. Excessive drag in "high 
range" or reverse. OK in low 
range. 

Car acts as if hand brake 
were on. 



10. Excessive drag in high 
range and low. OK in reverse. 



1 1 . Car creeps forward in 
neutral. 



(f) Band out of adjustment. 



(f) Adjust the reverse band properly. 



(g) Reverse band or drum worn, (g) If all other tests seem OK, dis- 
burned or scored. assemble the transmission. Inspect the 

band and drum. Install new parts if 

necessary. 



(a) Low range band too tight. 



(a) Adjust the low range band prop- 
erly. 



(b) Low range piston jammed in the (b) Loosen the low range band and 
"on" position. test the car in high range. If car now 

operates OK, low range piston is 
jammed. Remove the low range piston 
and free up. 

(c) Low range band strut out of posi- (c) Reinstall the low range band strut 
tion. in proper position. 

(d) Timing valve stuck in the low (d) Operate the car in low range and 
range position, keeping the low ~ange shift into high below 15 m.p.h. If the 
band on, when in high range or re- drag occurs in high range, the timing 
verse. valve is probably stuck. Remove the 

timing valve and free up. 



(a) Reverse band too tight. 



(b) Reverse piston jammed in "on" 
position. 



(a) Adjust the reverse band properly. 



(b) Loosen the reverse band and test 
car in high range. If the car now oper- 
ates OK, the reverse piston is jammed. 
Remove the reverse piston and free up. 



(c) Reverse band strut out of position. (c) Reinstall the reverse band strut in 

proper position. 

(a) Control valve link out of adjust- (a) Readjust the control valve link 
ment. properly. 



(b) Low range band too tight. 



(b) Readjust the low range band 
properly. 



(c) High range clutch pressure line (c) If this condition exists, the bell 
vent ball check in the reactor clutch housing must be removed and the vent 
housing may be stuck. This is generally ball check freed up, 
indicated by creeping only when the 
engine is speeded up. 



40 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



1 1 . Car creeps forward 
neutral, (continued) 



in 



12. Car creeps excessively in 
high range during idle. 



13. Car creeps forward when 
selector lever is in reverse. 

14. Car creeps backward 
when selector lever is in low 
range. 

1 5. High range clutch en- 
gages when the selector lever 
is in the park position. 









16. Excessive lag when shift- 
ing from low range to high. 






(d) High range clutch plates may be 
sticking on their splines. 



(a) Engine idling too fast. 



(a) Control valve link is out of ad- 
justment. 

(a) Control valve link is out of adjust- 
ment. 



(a) Control valve and detents out of 
adjustment with the stops on the steer- 
ing column. 



(b) Steering column tube not in posi- 
tion with the key on the steering gear 
case. 



(c) Control valve link is out of adjust- 
ment. 

(d) Inner control valve lever may be 
bent, giving the wrong geometry in 
the park ("P") position. 



(a) Sticking timing valve. 

(b) Obstruction in the metered pas- 
sage to rear end of timing valve. A 
sticking timing valve or obstruction in 
the metered passage will cause the low 
range band to remain on after the high 
range clutch has engaged. This causes 
the low range band to act as a brake 
and will cause the car to lag. 

(c) Low range piston sticking in "on" 
position. 



(d) Low range fast acting piston vent 
valve not dumping the pressure, as 
soon as the pressure is cut off. 



(d) Disassemble the transmission. Free 
up the high range clutch plates on 
their splines. 

(a) Idle engine at 375 RPM when 
selector lever is in high range, and the 
hand brake is on. Set fast idle on car- 
buretor at 800 RPM in neutral. 

(a) Readjust the control valve link 
properly. 

(a) Readjust the control valve link 
properly. 



(a) Adjust the selector control linkage 
properly. Be sure there is .030 to .040 
inch between the stop and pin when 
the selector lever is in the "L" low 
range position. 

(b) Line up the steering column tube 
with the key on the steering gear case. 
Adjust the selector control linkage 
properly. 

(c) Readjust the control valve link 
properly. 

(d) If control valve link adjustment 
does not correct the condition, install 
a new inner lever and readjust the 
control valve link. 

(a & b) Perform pressure test. Observe 
the length of delay of low range releas- 
ing after high range has engaged. Re- 
move the timing valve. Blow out all 
passages and free up the valve in the 
bore. 



(c) Remove the low range piston and 
cylinder body. Free up the piston and 
install new seals. 



(d) Remove the 
Free up the fast 
valve. Install new parts if necessary 



low range piston, 
acting piston vent 



41 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES-Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



17. Excessive delay when 
shifting from high range to 
low. 



(a) Sticking timing valve. 

(b) Obstruction in the metered pas- 
sage at rear end of timing valve. 

A sticking timing valve or obstruction 
in the metered passage will cause the 
engine to race for a period of time 
before the low range band is applied. 



(a & b) Perform pressure test. Observe 
the length of delay of the application 
of the low range band after the high 
range clutch is disengaged. Remove the 
timing valve. Blow out all passages 
and free up the timing valve. 



(c) Low range band out of adjust- 
ment. 



(c) Adjust the low range band prop- 
erly. 



(d) Vent for the release side of the (d) Remove the low range piston. Free 
fast acting piston closed. up the vent valve. 



(e) Low range piston sticking in cylin- 
der body, or worn seals. 



(e) Remove the low range piston and 
cylinder body. Free up the piston and 
install new s^als. 



1 8. Severe shift from low (a) Transmission throttle valve link- (a) Adjust the throttle valve linkage 
range to high at light throttle age out of adjustment. properly. 

opening, but normal at 

greater throttle opening. „ . _. . . ..... _ „ „ ... 

(b) Throttle valve sticking in bore. (b) Free up the throttle valve and 

adjust linkage. 

19. Severe shift from low to (a) Throttle valve linkage out of ad- (a) Adjust the throttle linkage prop- 
high range at all times. justment. erly. 



(b) Throttle valve stuck open. 



(b) Perform pressure test. Free up the 
throttle valve. Install new parts if 
necessary. 



(c) Faulty modulating valve. 



(c) Perform pressure test. Disassemble 
the modulating valve and free up. In- 
stall a new valve if necessary. 



(d) Low range band out of adjust- (d) Adjust the low range band prop- 
ment. erly. 

(e) Worn, scored or damaged clutch (e) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
plates. spect the high range clutch plates, in- 
stall new parts if necessary. 

(f) Loose cover at the rear end of the (f) Tighten the cover at the rear end 
timing valve. of the timing valve. 



42 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION 



20. Severe shift from high to (a) Low range band out of adjust- (a) Adjust the low range band prop- 
low range. ment. erly. 

(b) Sticking timing valve. (b) Perform pressure test. Observe the 

rate at which pressure is applied to the 
low range piston. Free up the timing 
valve. 

(c) Loose cover at the rear end of the (c) Tighten the cover at rear end of 
timing valve. timing valve. 

(d) Worn, scored, or rough drum or (d) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
band. spect the low range band and drum. 

Install new parts if necessary. 

21. Chatter when starting in (a) Low range band dragging. (a) Adjust the low range band prop- 
"high range." erly. 

(b) Reverse band dragging. (b) Adjust the reverse band properly. 

(c) Worn, scored, or rough low range (c) Inspect the condition of low range 
drum and band. band and drum. Install new parts if 

necessary. 

(d) Worn, scored, burned, distorted or (d) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
sticking high range clutch plates. spect the high range clutch plates. In- 
stall new parts if necessary. 

22. Chatter when starting in (a) Low range band out of adjust- (a) Adjust the low range band prop- 
"low range." ment. erly. 

(b) Reverse band dragging. (b) Adjust the reverse band properly. 

(c) Worn, scored or rough low -singe (c) Inspect the condition of the low 
band and drum. range band and drum. Install new parts 

if necessary. 

(d) Worn, scored, burned or sticking (d) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
high range clutch plates. Sticking high spect the high range clutch plates and 
range piston. piston. Install new parts if necessary. 

23. Chatter when starting in (a) Reverse band out of adjustment. (a) Adjust the reverse band properly. 
"reverse." 

(b) Low range band dragging. (b) Adjust the low range band prop- 

erly. 

(c) Worn, scored or rough reverse (c) Inspect the condition of the reverse 
band and drum. band and drum. Install new parts if 

necessary. 

43 



ULTRAMATIC PHIVE 
TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



23. Chatter when starting in 
"reverse." (continued) 



24. Direct drive clutch disen- 
gages with severe clunk at 
stop. 



25. Direct drive clutch fails 
to disengage when coming to 
a stop. Engine stalls. 



(d) Reverse drum bushing or thrust 
washer worn or scored. 



(e) Worn, scored, burned or sticking 
high range clutch plates. Sticking high 
range clutch piston. 

(a) Sticking direct drive shift valve. 



(b) Sticking or faulty governor vent 
valve. 



(c) Direct drive clutch driven plate 
facing groove too shallow. 



(d) Direct drive clutch moveable driv- 
ing plate sticking in the clutch housing. 



(a) Faulty governor. 

(b) Sticking direct drive shift valve. 

(c) Sticking "converter inlet" valve. 

(d) Sticking converter relief valve. 



(e) Sticking direct drive clutch move- 
able driving plate. 



(f) Direct drive clutch 
broken or torn facings. 



driven plate, 



(d) Disassemble the .transmission. In- 
spect the condition of the reverse drum 
bushing and thrust washer. Install new 
parts if necessary. 

(e) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
spect the high range clutch plates and 
piston. Install new parts if necessary. 

(a) Perform pressure test. Free up the 
direct drive shift valve. 

(b) Perform governor pressure test. 
The pressure should cut off at 11 
m.p.h. or above on deceleration. If the 
pressure does not cut off, recondition 
the governor. Install new parts if nec- 
essary. 

(c) Remove and disassemble the con- 
verter. Cut a groove .062" width 
through the full depth of the direct 
drive clutch driven plate facing. 

(d) If pressure test is OK. The move- 
able driving plate may be sticking. Dis- 
assemble the converter and direct drive 
clutch. Locate the cause of sticking and 
correct. 

(a) Perform governor pressure test. 
Recondition the governor. Install new 
parts if necessary. 

(b) Free up the direct drive shift valve. 

(c) Perform converter inlet pressure 
test. Free up the "converter inlet" 
valve. 

(d) Perform converter pressure test 
when operating in direct drive. Free 
up the converter relief valve. 

(e) If pressure tests are OK, the move- 
able driving plate may be sticking. Dis- 
assemble the converter, and direct drive 
clutch. Locate the cause of sticking and 
correct. 

(f) Disassemble the converter and 
direct drive clutch. Inspect the driven 
plate. Install new parts if necessary. 



44 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



26. Failure of direct drive 
clutch to engage. Car oper- 
ates in converter at all times. 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



(a) Faulty governor. 



(b) Sticking direct drive shift valve. 



(a) Perform governor pressure test. 
Recondition the governor. Install new 
parts if necessary. 

(b) Perform pressure test. Free up the 
direct drive shift valve. 



27. Operation of direct drive 
clutch erratic. Noisy. Clutch 
engages and disengages al- 
ternately. 



28. Failure of direct drive 
clutch to disengage on kick- 
down. 



29. Operation of direct drive 
clutch erratic, noisy. Direct 
drive clutch engages and dis- 
engages alternately at ap- 
proximately 1 5 m.p.h. 



(c) Sticking direct drive clutch move- 
able driving plate. 



(a) Faulty governor. 



(b) Sticking direct drive shift valve. 



(a) Throttle valve linkage out of ad- 
justment. 

(b) Sticking throttle valve piston. 



(c) Faulty governor. Pressure too high. 



(d) Sticking direct drive shift valve. 



(e) Throttle valve operating rod bell 
crank on the bell housing reversed. 
This gives the wrong geometry to the 
operating rod. 

(a) Faulty governor. Vent valve stick- 
ing or clogged by dirt. 



(b) Faulty governor drive pinion. 
Teeth worn or chipped, causing chatter- 
ing operation of the governor. 



(c) Disassemble the converter and 
direct drive clutch. Free up the move- 
able driving plate and install new 
rings. 

(a) Perform governor pressure test. 
Recondition the governor. Install new 
parts if necessary. 

(b) Perform pressure test at direct 
drive clutch passage. Free up the direct 
drive shift valve. 

(a) Adjust the accelerator linkage and 
the throttle valve linkage properly. 

(b) Perform throttle valve pressure 
test. Free up the throttle valve piston. 

(c) Perform governor pressure test. 
Recondition the governor. Install new 
parts if necessary. 

(d) If the throttle valve and linkage 
adjustments are OK, perform direct 
drive clutch pressure test. If the pres- 
sure does not cut off on kickdown, 
remove the direct drive shift valve and 
free up. 

(e) Install the throttle valve operating 
rod bell crank properly, and adjust the 
throttle valve linkage properly. 



(a) Perform governor pressure test. If 
the pressure oscillates excessively, re- 
move and recondition the governor. 
Install new parts if necessary. 

(b) Remove the governor. Examine the 
condition of the drive pinion. Install 
new parts if necessary. 



45 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES-Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



30. Direct drive clutch slips. 



(a) Leak in the direct drive clutch 
hydraulic system. 



31. Converter and transmis- 
sion overheat on hills. 



32. Scraping noise in 
verter. 



con- 



33. Rattle in transmission in 
neutral or "high range." 



(b) Faulty converter inlet valve, caus- 
ing high converter pressure when driv- 
ing in direct. Faulty converter outlet 
valve. 



(c) If abnormal noise and abnormally 
high creepage is noticed, it may indi- 
cate a broken driven plate. 

(a) Insufficient oil flow through the 
converter. This could be caused by a 
sticking "converter inlet" valve, or 
converter relief valve stuck open. 



(a) If faulty direct drive clutch dis- 
engagement is noticed, it may be a 
broken driven plate. 



(b) Worn or faulty reactor shaft bear- 
ing or thrust washer, causing converter 
parts to rub or scrape. 



(a) If the rattle is at idle only, it may 
be just rough engine performance on 
idle. 

(b) Band strut rattle in the transmis- 
sion. 



(a) Perform direct drive clutch pres- 
sure test. If the pressure is low, locate 
the cause of the leakage and correct. 
The leakage may be at the moveable 
driving plate rings, the bushings in the 
clutch housing, or the bushing in the 
reactor shaft. 

(b) Perform converter inlet pressure 
test. The pressure in direct should not 
exceed 22 p.s.i. If the pressure is high, 
remove the converter inlet valve and 
correct the fautly condition. Clean the 
converter outlet valve. 

(c) Disassemble the converter. Inspect 
the direct drive clutch driven plate. In- 
stall a new plate if necessary. 

(a) Perform converter in pressure test. 
The pressure should be 60 to 70 p.s.i. 
when operating in converter drive. If 
the pressure is OK, disconnect the line 
at the converter outlet valve. Operate 
the engine at 600 RPM for 15 seconds, 
with a container to catch the oil flow. 
The standard oil flow is approximately 
1% quarts in 15 seconds. If oil flow is 
insufficient, locate cause of the restric- 
tion and correct. 

(a) Disassemble the converter. Ex- 
amine the condition of the direct drive 
clutch parts. Install new parts if neces- 
sary. 

(b) Remove the converter. Measure the 
reactor shaft end play. If excessive, dis- 
assemble the converter. Inspect all 
parts for rubbing. Install a new reactor 
thrust bearing, and new thrust washer 
of correct thickness. 

(a) Idle the engine properly at 375 
RPM when the selector lever is in high 
range. 

(b) Adjust the transmission bands 
properly. 



46 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



34. Abnormal torsional dis- 
turbance in driveline at 20 
m.p.h. or at higher speeds in 
direct drive. 



35. Excessive backlash in 
transmission, most noticeable 
when accelerating and decel- 
erating in direct drive. 



(a) Incorrect friction lag in the direct 
drive clutch driven plate. (Disturbance 
most noticeable when driving in direct 
drive.) 

(b) Scored or burned out rear bearing 
retainer babbitt * bearing. (Extension 
housing bearing.) 



(a) Worn or faulty transmission thrust 
bearing and thrust washers, along the 
input and output shafts. 



(b) Excessive backlash in the differen- 
tial. 



(a) Disassemble the converter. Install 
a new direct drive clutch driven plate. 



(b) Remove the propeller shaft, front 
flange, and transmission rear bearing 
retainer. Examine the condition of 
babbitt bearing. Install new parts if 
necessary. 

(a) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
spect the condition of the thrust bear- 
ing and washers along the input shaft, 
planetary assembly, and output shaft. 
Install the necessary new parts. 

(b) Jack up the car. Check the amount 
of backlash in the differential. If the 
backlash is excessive, recondition the 
differential. 



36. Roar coming up from 
area around transmission. 



37. Knock or grating noise in 
neutral, low range or reverse. 



38. Excessive planetary unit 
whine in low range or re- 
verse. 

39. Whine or hum in "neu- 
tral" or high range below 35 
m.p.h., but noise disappears 
at higher speeds. 



(a) Body floor panel striking the trans- 
mission or bell housing. 



(b) Exhaust pipe striking the frame or 
body. Muffler rear bracket not neutral- 
ized. 

(c) Hole in the muffler or tail pipe. 



(a) Chipped or broken gear tooth in 
the planetary unit, or a chip wedged 
between the teeth. Broken planetary 
pinion roller bearings. 

(a) Worn, scored or burned planetary 
gears. Excessive end play in the plan- 
etary pinions. 

(a) Front oil pump inlet exposed to 
air leak. 

(b) If the front pump pressure holds 
regularly and the noise still exists, the 
front oil pump rotors may be noisy. 



(c) Oil foaming. 



(a) Pry or bend up the floor panel or 
cover so it doesn't strike the transmis- 
sion or bell housing. 

(b) Align the exhaust system. 



(c) Install necessary new exhaust sys- 
tem parts, as required. 

(a) Disassemble the transmission. Ex- 
amine all planetary parts for chips, 
broken teeth, or wear. Install the neces- 
sary new parts. 

(a) Disassemble the transmission. Ex- 
amine all planetary parts for wear and 
scores. Install the necessary new parts. 

(a) Perform front pump pressure test. 
Locate the air leak in inlet and correct. 

(b) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
spect the pump rotors. Install a new 
pump assembly if rotors are worn or 
scored. 

(c) Change the oil and notice if noise 
is gone. 



47 



UiTSSAJVSATlC DftSYE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



40. Hum or whine at speeds (a) Front oil pump relief valve stuck (a) Perform front pump pressure test 
above 30 m.p.h. not allowing the front pump to idle. at speeds above 30 m.p.h. If the front 

pump does not cut out, remove and 
free up the front pump relief valve. 

(b) If front oil pump cuts out as it (b) Disassemble the transmission. In- 
should and noise is still present, it may spect the condition of the rear pump 
be the rear pump is noisy. rotors. If the rotors are scored or worn, 

install a new rear oil pump assembly. 



4 1 . Oil leaks. (Leaks that do (a) Converter drain plugs loose. 
not require the removal of 
the transmission to correct.) 



(a) Remove the lower flywheel hous- 
ing. Tighten the converter drain plugs. 



(b) Transmission oil pan drin plug (b) Tighten the transmission oil pan 
leaking. drain plug or install new gasket. 

(c) Front pump relief valve plugs (c) Tighten the front pump relief 
loose in the bell housing. valve plugs in the bell housing. 

(d) Oil pan gasket. 



(e) Rear bearing retainer gasket. 

(f) Rear bearing retainer oil seal. 



(d) Tighten the oil pan or install new 
gasket. 

(e) Remove the rear bearing retainer. 
Install a new gasket. 

(f) Remove the rear bearing retainer. 
Install new oil seal. 



(g) Control valve operating cross shaft (g) Remove the oil pan. Remove the 

oil seal. control valve operating cross shaft and 

install a new seal. 

(h) Throttle valve operating shaft oil (h) Remove the oil pan. Remove the 

seal. throttle valve operating shaft and 

lever. Install a new oil seal. 

(i) Oil cooler lines or flexible connec- (i) Tighten or replace the oil cooler 

tions. lines or connections. 

42. Oil leaks. (Leaks that re- 
quire the removal of the ( a ) Converter pump to clutch housing (a) Disassemble the converter. Install 

transmission to correct.) S asket - a new converter pump gasket. 

(b) Converter pump to pump shaft (b) Disassemble the converter. Install 
gasket. a new converter pump to shaft gasket. 

(c) Bell housing to transmission case (c) Remove the bell housing from the 
gasket. transmission. Install a new gasket. 



48 



IF.IKAIVIAflC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION 



42. Oil leaks. (Leaks that re- (d) Converter pump shaft oil seal in (d) Remove the bell housing from the 
quire the removal of the the bell housing. transmission. Install a new oil seal in 
transmission to correct.) (con- the bell housing. 

tinued) 

(e) Sand hole in the bell housing. (e) Replace the bell housing. 

(f) Sand hole in the transmission case, (f ) Disassemble the transmission. In- 

stall a new case. 

(g) Sand hole in the converter pump. (g) Disassemble the converter. Install 

a new converter pump. 

(h) Sand hole in the direct drive (h) Disassemble the converter. Install 
clutch housing. a new clutch housing. 

(i) Leaks under bell housing cap screw (i) Install solid copper washers under 
heads. the cap screw heads. 

43. Incorrect front oil pump (a) Front pump relief valve sticking (a) Free up the front pump relief 
pressure. or broken spring. valve. Install a new spring and valve 

if necessary. 

(b) Pump selector valve sticking or (b) Disassemble the pump selector 
broken spring. valve. Free up the valve. Install a new 

valve and spring if necessary. 

(c) Pump check valve not seating (c) Clean out the pump check valve 
allowing the pressure to escape through bore. Inspect the condition of valve 
the reai pump. seat. Install a new upper valve body if 

necessary. 

(d) Air leak in the pump inlet pas- (d) Locate the air leak and correct, 
sage. 

(e) Pressure escaping at the control (e) Locate the faulty bore. Install a 
valve bore, modulating valve bore, or new lower control valve body if neces- 
the throttle valve bore. sary. 

(f) Pressure escaping at the release (f) Install new piston seals in the con- 
side of the low or reverse piston. trol valve upper body. 

44. Incorrect "high range" (a) Throttle valve linkage out of ad- (a) Adjust the throttle linkage prop- 
clutch pressure. justment. erly. 

(b) Sticking throttle valve. (b) Free up the throttle valve and 

adjust the linkage properly. Install new 
parts if necessary. 

(c) Sticking modulating valve. (c) Free up the modulating valve. In- 

stall new parts if necessary. 



49 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



44. Incorrect "high range" 
clutch pressure, (continued) 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



(d) Sticking ball check in the high 
range pressure passage, in the reactor 
clutch housing. 

(e) Worn or leaking high range clutch 
piston rings. 



(d) Disassemble the transmission. Free 
up the ball check in the high range 
pressure passage. 

(e) Disassemble the transmission. Check 
the high range piston ring gap. Install 
new rings if necessary. 



(f) Worn or scored bushings in the 
low range drum. 



(f) Disassemble the transmission. Ex- 
amine the bushings in the low range 
drum. Install new parts if necessary. 



45. Incorrect direct drive 
clutch pressure. 



(a) Throttle valve linkage out of ad- 
justment. 

(b) Sticking throttle valve. 



(a) Adjust the throttle valve linkage 
properly. 

(b) Free up the throttle valve and 
adjust linkage properly. Install new 
parts if necessary. 



(c) Sticking modulating valve. 



(c) Free up the modulating valve. In- 
stall new parts if necessary. 



(d) Worn or leaking direct drive 
clutch piston rings. 



(d) Disassemble the converter. Check 
the direct drive clutch piston ring gaps. 
Install new rings if necessary. 



(e) Worn input shaft pilot bushings. 



(e) Disassemble the converter. Ex- 
amine the input shaft pilot bushings in 
the center of the clutch housing. Install 
new bushings if necessary. 



(f) Worn bushings in the reactor shaft 
and in the reactor over-running clutch 
housing. 



(f) Disassemble the transmission. Ex- 
amine the bushings in the reactor shaft 
and in the reactor over-running clutch 
housing. 



46. Incorrect front pump re- 
lief valve boost pressure. 



(a) Front pump relief valve sticking 
or broken spring. 



(a) Free up the front pump relief 
valve. Install a new valve and spring if 
necessary. 



(b) Pump selector valve sticking or 
broken spring. 



(b) Free up the pump selector valve. 
Install a new valve and spring if neces- 
sary. 



47. Incorrect converter inlet 
pressure, when driving in 
"converter drive." 



(a) Faulty converter inlet valve. 



(a) Examine the converter inlet valve. 
Install new parts if necessary. 



50 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 

TROUBLE SHOOTING AND CORRECTIVE MEASURES— Continued 



CONDITION 



POSSIBLE CAUSE 



CORRECTION 



47. Incorrect converter inlet (b) If the pressure is low, it may indi- (b) Disassemble the transmission. Ex- 
pressure, when driving in cate a loss of pressure through the con- amine the condition of the converter 
"converter drive." (con- verrer pump shaft bushings in the bell pump shaft bearings in the bell hous- 



tinued) 

Incorrect converter inlet pres- 
sure when driving in direct 
drive. 



48. Incorrect governor pres- 
sure. 



housing. 

(c) If the converter pressure exceeds 
22 p.s.i. when operating in direct drive, 
it may indicate a sticking converter in- 
let valve. This is usually accompanied 
by a slipping direct drive clutch. 



ing. Install new bearings if necessary. 

(c) Remove the converter inlet valve. 
Free up the valve. Install a new valve 
and spring if necessary. 



(a) Sticking governor valve or vent (a) Disassemble and clean the gov- 
valve. ernor. Free up both valves. 



(b) Governor housing loose on the 
shaft. 



(b) Tighten the governor housing cap 
screws. 



(c) Worn valves or valve support. 



(c) Recondition the governor. Install 
necessary new parts. 



49. Incorrect throttle valve (a) Throttle valve linkage out of ad- (a) Adjust the throttle valve linkage 
pressure. justment. properly. 



50. Incorrect low range ap- 
plication pressure. 



51. Incorrect reverse appli 
cation pressure. 



(b) Sticking throttle valve. 



(a) The low range application pres- 
sure is modulated pressure and should 
be the same as the high range clutch 
pressure. If the variation is excessive 
it could be caused by a leak in the low 
range pressure passages, or a loose low 
range cylinder body. 

(b) Leaking seal rings on the low 
range piston. 

(a) Leak in the reverse pressure pas- 
sages, or a loose reverse cylinder body. 



(b) Leaking seal rings on the reverse 
piston. 

(c) Sticking pump selector valve. Check 
the front pump relief valve boost pres- 
sure in reverse at 1500 RPM. The boost 
pressure should be 135-165 p.s.i. If the 
boost pressure is low the pump selector 
valve is at fault. 



(b) Free up the throttle valve, and 
adjust the linkage properly. 

(a) Check the entire passage from the 
timing valve to the low range cylinder 
body for leaks. Tighten the upper and 
lower valve bodies. Tighten the low 
range cylinder body. 



(b) Remove the low range piston. In- 
stall new seal rings. 

(a) Check the entire pressure system 
from the control valve to the reverse 
cylinder body for leaks. Tighten the 
upper and lower valve bodies. Tighten 
reverse cylinder body. 

(b) Remove the reverse piston. Install 
new seal rings. 

(c) Remove the pump selector valve 
Clean and free up the valve. Install a 
new valve and spring if necessary. 



51 



ULYRAMATIC DRIVE 

SERVICE BULLETIN INDEX 



Date Service Bulletin Subject 



52 



SERVICE MANUAL 



SECTION VII 



ULTRAMATiG DRIVE 



25th Series Supplement 




Packard Motor Car Company, Detroit 32, Michigan 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 
25TH SERIES SUPPLEMENT 




Figure S- 7— Cross Section or the Uitramatic Drive Beginning With the 25th Series 



TOP OF UPPER 
VALVE BOOY 




PUMP CHECK VALVES 
SECTION THRU PUMP CHECK VALVE BORE 

Figure 5-2— New Style Pump Check Valves 



Introduction 

This supplement contains the necessary information 
to service the 25th Series and subsequent Uitramatic 
Drives, where the service operations differ from those 
pertaining to the 24th Series Uitramatic Drive as de- 
scribed in the Uitramatic Section of the Service Manual. 



The 25th Series Uitramatic Drive introduced a num- 
ber of new improvements which results in more respon- 
sive and smoother operation. Among the more important 
improvements are the changes in the torque converter, 
direct drive clutch, planetary system and pump -heck 
valves. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



TORQUE CONVERTER 



<ni^ 




Figure S-3— Cross Section of the New Converter 



Description 

The following paragraphs describe the disassembly, 
inspection, and assembly of the 25th Series torque con- 
verter. The servicing procedures for the 23rd and 24th 
Series converters are covered on pages 3 through 6 in 
the Ultramatic Drive section of the Service Manual. 



The major changes incorporated with the 25th Series 
converter are: 



(a) A coned 9" direct drive clutch plate instead of 
the flat 1114" clutch plate. 

(b) The clutch piston is driven by four steel driving 
straps instead of being splined. 

(c) The relocation of the oil drain plugs from the 
front face of the clutch housing to the outer 
diameter of the housing. 

(d) The first turbine is splined to the driven plate 
instead of being bolted to the plate. 



SERVICING THE CONVERTER 



Converter Disassembly 




Figure S-4 — Measuring Reactor Shaft End Play 



Place the converter on the bench with the pump end 
up. Using a dial indicator and special clamp number 
PU306, measure the reactor shaft end play to determine 
if a new thrust washer is needed. The end play should 
be .010" to .015". 

The torque converter assembly is balanced as a unit 
at the Factory and balancing lugs are installed. 

It will be noticed on most of the torque converters be- 
ginning with the 25th Series that the balancing lugs are 
not held to the converter pump by drive screws but are 
held by cap screws when the converter pump is attached 
to the direct drive clutch housing. These lugs are of the 
following thickness; .0142", .0285", .057", .083", and 
.125". In some cases several lugs are used at one loca- 
tion for balance and these may be in more than one 
place on the pump. Therefore, it is extremely important 
that on assembly of the torque converter these lugs be 
reinstalled in the position from which they were re- 
moved or vibration may occur in the torque converter 
assembly. 



IC DRIVE 



To avoid installing the balancing lugs at the wrong 
location on the converter pump it is suggested that the 
lugs and their locations at the time of disassembly be 
marked with a scratch-awl or a paint stripe in * manner 
that will insure their being reinstalled at the proper 
place. 




Figure S-S— Locating Marks Painted on the Balancing 
Lugs, Pump, and Clutch Housing 

All replacement converter pumps shipped from the 
Parts Warehouse are balanced and the balancing lugs 
held in place by drive screws. This new pump may be 
installed in any position to the clutch housing, but, the 
balancing lugs originally installed at the Factory must 
be reinstalled in the same relative position to the direct 
drive clutch housing to balance the torque converter as 
an assembly. Therefore, when making a new converter 
pump installation, the direct drive clutch housing should 
always be marked in some manner that will insure the 
balancing lugs being reinstalled in their original location. 

Remove the converter pump to clutch housing cap 
screws and washers. 



Caution: These are special cap screws and should 
not be interchanged with other cap screws of the 
same size. Tap the converter pump with a plastic 
hammer to loosen, and slip off the converter pump 
and thrust spacer. 




Figure S-7— Removing the Second Turbine Bolts 



Remove the second turbine to first turbine bolts. 
Remove the second turbine after tapping it loose with 
plastic hammer. 





Figure S-8— Removing Reactor and Thrust Washer 



Figure S-6— Removing the Converter Pump 



Remove the reactor and shaft assembly and ball 
thrust bearing and reactor thrust washer. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 




Figure S-9— Removing fhe First Turbine 

Remove the first turbine and hub assembly from the 
splines of the clutch driven plate. 




paint or a scratch-awl. Remove the cap screws and 
washers attaching the direct drive clutch stationary 
plate and direct drive clutch piston to bosses in the 
clutch housing. 



Remove the direct drive clutch stationary driving 
plate. 
Remove the direct drive clutch driven plate. 



atMMMMte-'* 




Figure $-12— Arrow Indicates Locating Marks 

Mark the lug of the direct drive clutch piston and 
the clutch housing with a scratch-awl or paint stripe. 



Figure S-IO— Plate and Housing Should Be Marked 
Before the Bolts Are Removed 

Mark the face of the direct drive clutch stationary 
driven plate and the direct drive clutch housing with 







W« 




Figure S- J 3— Removing fhe Clutch Piston 



Figure S-l J— Removing fhe Clutch Driven Plate 



Remove the direct drive clutch piston. Remove the 
spacers from the bosses in the clutch housing. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Cleaning and Inspection 

Important: Cleanliness is a law when servicing a 
converter. Make sure your hands are clean, as well 
as the cleaning solvent, container, bench and tools. 

Wash all the converter parts in clean unleaded gaso- 
line, kerosene, or carbon tetrachloride. Dry all the parts 
by blowing them off with compressed air. 




Figure S-J 4— Inspecting the First Turbine 

Inspect the contact surface of the outer flange of the 
converter pump, and outer edge of the clutch housing, 
for nicks, burrs, indentations, warpage, or low spots 
that might cause the converter to leak. 

Inspect the machined area around the vanes and 
torus ring for wear or rubbing condition, which would 
be an indication of worn reactor bearing or thrust 
washer. Inspect the vanes and torus ring for any indica- 
tion of cracks. 



Inspect the converter pump shaft surface for pits, 
scores or wear. If the shaft surface is scored or worn, 
replace the shaft, as well as the babbit bearing and oil 
seal in the transmission bell housing. Inspect the con- 
dition of the converter pump shaft splines. 

Inspect the general condition of the second turbine 
for any indication of cracks. Inspect the machined area 
around the vanes for wear or rubbing condition, which 
would be an indication of worn reactor bearing or 
thrust washer. 



Inspect the outer mounting flange for being warped 
or distorted. Inspect the condition of the bolt holes and 
threads. Inspect the center mounting surface for burrs, 
nicks, or distortion. Inspect the condition of the center 
alignment flange. 

Inspect the general condition of the reactor for any 
indication of cracks. 

Inspect the machined area around the vanes and hub 
for wear or robbing condition which would be an in- 
dication of worn reactor bearing or thrust plate. Inspect 
the reactor shaft bearing surfaces and splines for wear, 
pits, or scores. Inspect the reactor shaft attaching flange 
and cap screws. 

Inspect the reactor to first turbine thrust washer. In- 
spect the reactor to converter pomp thrust bearing, for 
wear, pits, or scores. 

Inspect the direct drive dutch driven plate for worn 
or loose facings, or loose torque springs. Inspect the 
driven plate hub splines. 

Inspect the dutch stationary driving plate for wear, 
burrs, pits, and scores. 

Inspect the dutch moveable driving plate or piston 
for cracked driving straps and loose rivets, wear, burrs, 
pits, and scores. Inspect the condition of the piston rings 
and grooves. Measure the ring gap of the inner and 
outer rings. The gap should be .003" to .012". Install 
new rings if they do not come up to specifications. 









Inspect the mounting flange of the second turbine for 
being warped or having cracked bolt hole bosses. 

Inspect the general condition of the first turbine for 
any indication of cracks. Inspect the machined area 
around the vanes, torus ring and center for wear or 
rubbing condition, which would be an indication of 
worn converter bearings or thrust plates. 




Figure S-l 5— Measuring the Piston Ring Gap 

Clean and inspect the oil passage from the input shaft 
bearing to the direct drive dutch piston. 

After cleaning and inspecting all the converter parts, 
the converter may be reassembled with utmost care 
using new gaskets. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



Converter Assembly 

Install and tighten the drain plugs in the converter 
direct drive clutch housing. Place the clutch housing on 
the bench with the rear side up. 



Be sure the rings are free in the ring grooves. Center 
the rings for easy installation and to prevent ring 
damage. 




Install the direct drive clutch driven plate. Install the 
spacers over the four studs not threaded through driv- 
ing strap. 

Align the locating marks on the stationary driving 
plate with the alignment marks on the clutch housing. 




Figure 5-1 8- Installing the Stationary Plate 



Figure S-I6— Installing the Clutch Piston 



Install the stationary driving plate over the studs into 
the direct drive clutch housing. 



Install the direct drive clutch piston and match the 
alignment mark on the piston with the mark in the 
housing. Using five 5 / 16 -18 studs, insert one stud into 
each of the threaded holes in the bosses of the clutch 
housing adjacent to where the piston driving straps are 
to be attached and one stud through a piston driving 
strap to a boss to prevent the piston from rotating in 
the direct drive clutch housing. 





Figure S-l 7— Installing One of the Four Spacers 
Over a Pilot Stud 



Figure S-J 9— Torque Tightening the Stationary 
Plate Cap Screws 



Remove the studs from the bosses. Install the cap 
screws, washers and torque tighten to 25 to 30 foot 
pounds. 

Centralize the clutch driven plate with the hub of 
the direct drive clutch housing. Install the first turbine 
and hub into the splines of the clutch driven plate. Coat 
the reactor thrust washer with clean cup grease and in- 
stall it in the first turbine hub. 



UL1RAMA7IC DR3V£ 




Figure S-20— Installing Reactor Thrust Washer 



Install the reactor and shaft in the first turbine. 




Figure S-21— Torque Tightening the Second Turbine 
Cap Screws 



Install the second turbine. Install the cap screws and 
washers. Torque tighten cap screws to 12 to 15 foot 
pounds. 



Install the ball thrust bearing in place over the re- 
actor shaft. Coat the ball thrust bearing with clean 
Ultramatic Drive Fluid. Coat the bearing spacer with 
clean cup grease and install it in the forward end of the 
converter pump shaft. 



Install a new converter pump gasket on the converter 
pump flange, holding the gasket in place with a thin 
fiisn of cup grease. Install the converter pump, making 
certain the balance ,'ugs have been reinstalled in the 
position from which they were originally removed. 
Install four converter pump attaching cap screws and 
washers and recheck the reactor shaft end play if a new 



25TTO-3& 




figure S-22— Torque Tightening the Csnves-ter Pump 
Cop Screw; 



thrust washer has been installed. If the clearance is 
found to be within .010" to .015" install the remaining 
cap screws and washers and tighten evenly to a torque 
tightness of 25 to 30 fcot pounds. 




Figure 5-23— Checking the Driven Plate for 
Free Potation 



Check the driven plate for free rotation fey spinning 
the driven plate with a dummy input shaft. There 
should not be any drag on the driven plate. 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



PLANETARY SYSTEM 



Dampers are incorporated in the planetary unit to 
control backlash between the pinions and ring gear. Six 
springs and three bronze "V" shaped dampers are used 
in grooves on the outer face of the cage and bear 
against the inner diameter of the reverse drum portion 
of the planetary ring gear. 



REAR END VIEW 




Figure S-24— Cross Section of fhe Planetary 
Cage Dampers 



Removal 

Remove the planetary unit and ring gear as an 
assembly from the Ultramatic transmission case. Place 
the assembly on the bench and remove the ring gear. 
Care should be exercised when removing the ring gear 
to avoid losing the dampers or springs as they are 
tensioned against the ring gear. 

Inspection 

Inspect the damper springs to see if they are cracked 
or broken and replace if necessary. Inspect the bronze 
dampers and replace them if excessively worn. 

Installation 

This operation should be performed over a 2" hole 
that will permit the shaft of the planetary cage to pass 
through as the cage is assembled into the ring gear. 
The hole may be drilled in the bench or a four-by-four 
clamped in the vise. If a four-by-four is used, make 
sure that the end with the hole extends out from the 
vise far enough so that there is sufficient room allowed 
for the planetary assembly to clear the vise. Position 
and center the ring gear over the 2" hole in the bench 
or four-by-four in the vise. 

Position the Planetary Cage Installer PU-371 in the 
ring gear. Install a rubber band around the outer diam- 
eter of the planetary cage where the dampers are to 
be installed. Install two springs and one bronze damper 
in each of the three "V" shaped grooves of the plane- 
tary cage as follows: 

Place one spring on top of another spring and hold 
them in place with a rubber band, in the side of the 




Figure S-25— Planetary Cage Installer PU-371 
Positioned in the Ring Gear 

groove that has a lip, with the bowed-out center section 
of these springs facing outward. Place a bronze damper 
on these springs with the widest side of the damper 
facing outward. Using this same procedure install the 
balance of the springs and dampers. 




Figure $-26— Installing the Planetary Cage 
Assembly in the Ring Gear 

Position this assembly into the Planetary Cage 
Damper Installer with the dampers lined up with the 
legs of the Damper Installer. If the dampers should 
catch on the inside edges of the Damper Installer, tap 
the dampers with a soft hammer until the planetary 
unit starts downward into the sleeve of the tool. Then 
remove the rubber band. 

A slight rotation of the planetary cage may be neces- 
sary in order to have the pinion clearance recesses on 
the retaining collar of the tool line up with the pinions, 
and also to permit the teeth of the pinion to line up 
with those of the ring gear. With the planetary cage 
installed in the ring gear in the correct position, remove 
the tool. 



10 



ULTRAMATIC DRIVE 



PUMP CHECK VALVES 



Two new spring-type pump check valves have been 
designed for the Ultramatic control valve assembly re- 
placing the cylindrical type. 

When the front pump is operating, the flat side of 
the front check valve is forced from its seat, allowing 
oil to pass through. This oil pressure forces the flat side 
of the rear valve against its seat. When the rear pump 
pressure overcomes the front pump pressure, the flat 
side of the rear check valve is forced from its seat, 
allowing oil to pass through. This oil pressure forces the 
flat side of the front valve against its seat. 

Removal 

With the control valve body assembly removed from 
the transmission, remove the cap screws and separate 
the upper and lower bodies and remove the separator 
plate. Remove the two pump check valves from the slots 
of the valve bore in the lower side of the upper valve 
body. 

Inspection 

Inspect the condition of the check valves, and if they 
are found to be cracked, bent, distorted, or twisted, they 
should be replaced. 




Figure S-27-New Style Pump Check Valves 
in Position 

Installation 

Install the two spring type pump check valves in the 
two slots of the check valve bore in the upper valve 
body, with the flat sides opposite each other as shown 
in the illustration. Assemble the upper and lower valve 
bodies and separator plate. 



11