Pocket guide to the cities of Belgium and Luxembourg

&J

THE CITIES OF

ELGIUM AND
UXEMBOURG

POCKET GUIDE TO

THE CITIES OF

BELGIUM AND
LUXEMBOURG

WAR DEPARTMENT • WASHINGTON, D. C.

/•'•■ Military Personnel only. Not to be

republished, in whole or in part, without the

oojist nt of the War Departnu nt

Pi. pari d

ARMY INFORMATION BRANCH

INFORMATION AM) EDUCATION DIVISION, A. S. F.

DNITED STATES ARMY

ATTENTION

About tlie mily thing in tlii> booklet thai can be guaranteed
be terrain. The rest of it is up t<> the fortunes or misfortunes
ill' war. Many of the towns ami cities described here have been
bombed and shelled by us as we approached, and shelled by the
enemy as he retreated. And many of them will still show the
mark- of the destruction visited upon them when these lands were
being conquered and occupied by the Germans.

The short historical notes and city plans concerning most of the
towns are correct as of the outbreak of the war. But the changes
of war were -(ill happening iii many places when tlii> pocket guide
went to press.

You may find that art treasures described and located in I

pages have 1 n looted or destroyed, and it may be years before

those thai ran be restored are sights to see again. On the other
hand, some of them, by •> stroke of good fortune, may be left in-
tact, and you will be able to enjoy them,

in

VI

ANTWERP

A visit Id Antwekp will soon convince you that its atmosphere
is so individual ilial it in no way resembles other cities, either in
Belgium or in Europe. Apart from being one of the world's most
important harbors, Antwerp is an imposing town with wide
avenues and magnificenl buildings. At the .-nine time it is Bel-
gium's greatest commercial city and one of her proudest centers
f culture. Bni. before trying to understand the Antwerp of
today, you must know something of tin' story of yesterday.

The history of Antwerp is the history of the Scheujt. for it is
the course of this river which has influenced the life of the city to
such an extent thai it has become the pulsebeal of Its inhabitants.
During the middle-ages tin' growth of Antwerp was slow. Later
mil however, in theBenaissance period, Antwerp achieved a leader-
ship m economic activity probably attained by no other city before.
The natural deepening of the water.- in the channels, thus improv-
ing the access to the harbor, was one of the most important factors
contributing to this supremacy. The days .»t the Spanish Fury
inaugurated a 200-year stagnation in the development of the harbor.

The closing of the mouth of the Scheldt, obtained by the Dutch in
the Treaty of Minister in 1648, sealed the fate of the city, and it
was only in 1792, when the Treaty of The Hague w -as signed, that
the Scheldt was reopened. Alter Belgium's separation from Hol-
land, the coast of Dutch Flanders, which forms the south bank of
the Western Scheldt, remained in Dutch possession to the greai
disappointmenl of the Belgians. It was not until 1860 that Ant-
werp began to approach (lie importance of its chief rivals. Since
then, however, canals to (lie Industrial hinterland of Charleroi
have been buill and extensive dock systems have been constructed.
Until- the outbreak of this war. Antwerp was a harbor whirl,
ranked with Rotterdam, Hamburg, and New York, and in 1
almost 12,000 entering vessels were registered. Antwerp is not as
large a center of population as the great rival ports of Rotterdam
and Hamburg. In 1988 the population of the commune numbered
273,317. However, (he population of "the agglomeration," thai
is, Antwerp together will, the live adjoining communes of
Berchem, Borgerhout, Deurne. Hoboken and Merksem, was
r.'-_\654. '

II has been said that sight-seeing is a highly organized way
of rushing past a huge number of beautiful things that might

be seen if only time were taken to look at them and find "in whai
they are. But Antwerp offers such a collection of interesting
views that no matter how inexperienced a traveller you are, you
will enjoy every minute of your stay in this city.

The medieval city of Antwerp grew up on the right hank of the
Scheldt, around I he Steen, or citadel. All of the ancient build-
ings are found within the walls of the old city, which were re-
placed in L859 by the prominent line of inner boulevards. Despite
the size of the area so enclosed — more than six square miles — the
districts of prime importance to you as a traveller lie compara-
i ively close together.

You will probably arrive in Antwerp at the Centbai Station,
and if so. you will be at once in the heart of the city.

The Central Station orCentraalstation,asi1 is called in Flemish,
with its lofty dome 245 feet high, oiler- a Foretaste of the city's
monumental character. However, the station's exit for passengers
arriving in Antwerp is far less impressive than its front entrance,
and Consequently once outside the building you would do well logo
back to the station's main entrance at the De Keyseki.ei (Avenue
de Keyset-). This broad tree-shade, I avenue is the lir-i of a series
of thoroughfares running westward to the Old Town. In im-

008374' — 14-

portance, De Keyserlei is to Antwerp what Fifth Avenue is fce
New York. No matter where you go in Antwerp, sen will find
thai mosl of the streets will lead you to this avenue, Walking
down De Keyserlei past many of the cityls besl hotels, von come
to the Ti-NiioKsn.AATs (Plaoe Teniers) and thus cross the line of
Antwerp's big avenues. Named after the countries which were
Belgium's allies in the first World War. these avenues are planted
with u quad n.i pie line of trees and embellished with gardens.
Continuing on the De Keyserlei, however, and walking toward the
Scheldt, yon come to the Meat, which, commercially and topo-
graphically, forms the center of the old town. During the day-
time this broad street will he as crowded as I).' Keyserlei. but
after business hours, the Meir is more or less deserted. The Rotal
1'ai.a. i and the CoMMiaatAi. Ex. iiaxoi; are the most important
buildings which yon should visit on this excursion. The Royal
Palace, erected in 1745 by a private citizen and occupied by
Napoleon in L812, was q©I acquired by the crown until after L815.
The Exchange building, which is enclosed on all sides by houses
was built around 1862. The balcony on the second floor (Belgians
call i In- the first Boor) i.- open to visitor- during exchange hours.
Al '' " ,| " f the Meir is Antwerp - - skyscraper, the Torbnghbotxw

If you arc a native of New York or Chicago you will wonder at
what the people of Antwerp call their highest building, and per-
haps you will he surprised to hear them explain to you that this
285 looi high structure i> also the tallest in continental Europe.
If the building is .-till open to the public you would do well to
take this opportunity to view a line panorama of ihe city and
harbor from the cafe at the top. From here you can easily find
your way to the Scheldt, and thus also to the magnificent Cathe-
dral or Notre Dame, the tower of which dominates the skyline
of the city. The Cathedral is -uch a beautiful work that, in the
words of Charles V. it should lie kept in a casket in order io pre-
serve it from the ravages of time. This (lot hie Church, construc-
tion of which was started in 1852, was completed in 1">18. The 411-
foot north tower, a masterpiece of open-style work, is one of tie'
most noteworthy parts of the building. Its total length is 884
feet and it- area is 70,000 square feet.

After having crossed the tow n you can start your visit to special
points of interest. The Zooi.ouuai, <!arden. prior to the war
among the finest on (he continent, is worth a visit, and if you
happen to be in Antwerp in (he late spring or -ummer. you may
choose tii rest on one of the benches of its beautiful garden while

listening to the music of a military band. The Tows Hall, with
its more than 250 fool long Renaissance facade occupies the western
ride of the Groote Makkt. Here you will be able to admire the
picturesque group' of Guild Houses dating mainly from the 15th
and 16th centuries. Among the other buildings which you should
make a point to see especially are the Plantix-Moreit - Mubehm,
the bouse of the 10th century printer, Christopher Plantin, where
you will find not only works printed by hi.- own house, but also
books bearing the imprints of Gutenburg, Aldus of Venice. Elzevir
of Amsterdam and other historic names. The IWw. Museum of

Art offers y tie of the best collections of masterpieces in Europe.

Don'l forget thai Antwerp is the birthplace ..I' Rubens, and was
also the borne of Metsys, Van Dyck, Jordeans. Teniers and other
world famous masters,

If you "am to relax, or if you seek some recreation, von should
visit one of Antwerp's well kept paries. The \\< utiou.k Park,
known for its giant tree-, and the Kevikhknh,*- Park with its
charming lakes, are among i he best known, and both ran he readied
bj bus or tram from the Central Station. During the winter
season you may want to pay a visit to Antwerp's Ofra House or
attend the concerts given frequently in one of its big concert halls.

A visit to the Flemish Theatre may be less interesting, especially
if you don't understand the language.

On a nice summer day you can go to the beach on the left bank
of the Scheldt. It will give you an opportunity to see the two
tunnels under the Scheldt, one tor toot passengers, the other for
cars. If harbor inspection is allowed you may be interested in
one of the boat excursions along the docks of the Scheldt.

Prior to the war Antwerp kepi up the same high standards
of food as all other Belgian cities. Regional specialties are the
I'atatea Frittes (French Fried potatoes) which are sold on the
street corners; and asparagus, if it is in season. Among the
drinks, beer is Antwerp's favorite, although wine during meals
is not uncommon, especially if you are lucky enough to be invited
lor dinner ai the house of an Antwerp family. If you visit the
left bank of the Scheldt you should try their clams (moaselen)
and eels, especially the dish called "Ptdvng in't groen. ,>

As a last remark it may be well to remind you that Antwerp
is a Flemish city, but as a result of the development of its har-
bor its inhabitants are cosmopolitan and thus there is a good
chance that you will be able to find many persons who will under-
stand English.

SS<miQSuS

BRUGES

No one can over claim to know Belgium without having visited
Bruges. The peculiar charm ofthiscity is due partly to the pres-
ence of so many canals and partly to its wealth of Medieval and
Renaissance buildings Notwithstanding the development of
modern industries Bruges has managed to retain its beauty and
is to date less spoiled than other cities by modern construction and
so-called progress.

The city of Binges, the name of which is derived from the word
"I nidge," is sail I to dale back as far as the Seventh century. During
the twelfth century, thanks to its proximity to the inlet to the sea,
Bruges became one of Europe's greatest commercial centers. Led
by Pieter de Coninck, a weaver, and Jan Breydel, a butcher, the
people ©f Bruges revolted against the French governor of Flan-
ders. Jacques de Chatillon, and massacred all those unable to pro-
nounce the dillicult Flemish words "Schild en Vriend" (Shield and
Friend). The silting-up pf the inlet to the sea was the principal
factor in Bruges' rapid decline during the fifteenth and sixteenth

centuries. This explains why almost every important building
in Bruges dates bach to the period of its urea'test wealth durine the
1300's and I400's.

Hinav- is the capital of the province of West Flanders and bad,
in the days prior to the second World War, a population of 52,000.
rhiscity i8so rich in things worth seeing thai it is difficult to make
a choice for a brief visit.

fn the central and southern parts of the city you will find such
buildings as St. Savotb's Cathedral, in which bang paintings by
1 lurry Bouts, Bloondeel, and Pourbub. This building, belonging
to three distinct periods (Uth. 15th and I'M 1, centuries) is open
'" the public every day. On the Grootf. Mahxt, stands a 19th
century monument to Pieter de Coninck and Jan Breydel, who
have played such an important role in Flanders 1 history.

The Brunt, overshadowing the square, was built in the 13th
and 1 lib centuries, although the upper story was not added until
1 482. AJso in the Groote Markt are the Gothic styled Gf.nkiuIi
Post Office and the Provinciai, Government Buildinu The
Chapelo* ihi How Biood, from where the bistorical Procession
of the Holy Blood sets out on the first Monday after May •' is
located in the same district. This Chapel was built to receive

10

some drops of the Blood of Christ brought from Jerusalem in
1150. The Romanesque lower chapel dates back to the 12th cen-
tury, whereas the Gothic upper chapel was built 300 years later.
\ small museum, containing the silver gilt reliquary of the Holy

Blood, together with other work- of art, is ai the right of the
entrance to the upper chapel.

The Town Hall and the Law COURTS are located in the same
neighborhood.

The Municipal MusEtJM of Art in Bruges, a building in mod-
ern style, has one of the richest collections of master- of the early
Flemish school, while the Mansion of the Lords of Bruuthuise
which has been converted into an ArohaeolooiCAL Museum, ex-
hibits a unique collection of lace and antique furniture. The
early Gothic Church of Our Lady was built in the Kith century.
Here you will be able to admire such works of an as the Mater
Dolorosa, attributed to I-enbrandt. and the statue of the Virgin
and Child by Michelangelo. A remarkable collection of paint-
ings by Hans Mending are to lie found in the St. .John's Hospital
Museum, which i- located in the Mariastraat, opposite the west
end of the Church of Our Lady. A few block- from here is the
thirteenth century Bkouinaoi:. a nunnery for nuns of the

! — 4-1-

11

Beguine order (Beginjnhof), which is well worth :i visit. A
bridge crosses from the south side of the Beguinage to t lie- bank of
the Mennew atki: in Lake of Love.

In the Northeastern part of the city you may want t<. visit such
buildings as the fifteenth century Citizens' House, the Guido
Gezelle Museum, and the Jerusalem Church.

For those who wan) to know more about the inner life of Bruges
it suffices to stroll along the picturesque side streets, where the
numerous laceworkers live. Bruges 1 real spirit does not lie exclu-
sively in the historical value of its ancienl buildings, but also in
the simple and charming atmosphere of its narrow winding
si reets.

Most travellers, once in Bruges, take the opportunity to make an

exclusion to Zeebrugge. less than 2."> miles away. Zeebrugge is a
family resort on the Belgian seacoast. The Mole, which became
celebrated during the first World War. is 1% miles long and the
favorite walk of tourists. It was here during the first World War
that the British performed a daring act of strategy. Feinting a
big scale attack on Zeebrugge with the cruiser Vindictive, the
British moved in the obsolete cruisers Intrepid and [phigenia
filled with concrete, and sank them in the channel of the canal.

12

effectively sealing it. and thus rendering it useless to the Germans
as a submarine base.

There is no night life in Bruges although the theater and numer-
ous movie houses make it possible to spend an agreeable evening.
Bruges is a Flemish city, bul many of its inhabitants understand
English fairly well.

13

s »" '//^^ -

Anvers

Waterloo Cnarlero;

14

BRUSSELS

Bki.cium is only a small country, and you will gel an idea of its
compactness when you realize that the distance bel ween I he farthest
points is less than a hundred miles. It will, however, interest you
to see how many interesting and picturesque places are packed
within the boundaries of this small nation, and it will astonish yon
even more when you discover how each locality has succeeded in
maintaining its own characteristics. A visit to the great city of
Brussels, capital of Belgium, will be a striking example of this
and will show you how the Belgian towns have managed to be
modern and progressive without sacrificing their ancient heritage.
Because of its location on the trade route between Bruges and
Cologne, Brussels was. from 1318, the residence of the Counts of
Louvain and the Dukes of Brabant. Under the Burgundians
I L406-77), Brussels was the scene of brilliant courts, and under the
Hapsburgs it became the capital of the Netherlands which then in-
cluded both Holland and Belgium. In L695, during the bombard-
ment by the French, much of the lower town was destroyed. In
1830, Brussels was the scene of the first uprising against the Dutch

is

regime. Since then Brussels has been the capital <>f the independ-
enl Belgian kingdom, and in the period before the outbreak of
the second World War. Brussels was by Ear the largest center of
population in the country with a total of 936,000 inhabitants.

Brussels is situated in the hilly valley of the little river Sbnne.
Apart from being Belgium's most important city, seat . » f the Gov-
ernment, and residence of the royal family. Brussels is generalh
recognized by all who know it well as one of the most charming
and at the same time one of the gayest place.- to live.

The city is divided into the Upper Town, with it- Royal Palace
and Government offices, and the Lower Town, which is the centei
of commerce and entertainment.

Chances are that you will arrive in Brussels at the North Sta-
tion, which brings yon into the lower town section at the Pi
( SABLES ROGIEH. From here you can take your choice and walk
either along the beautiful Boulevard Adolf Max. with its numer-
ous sidewalk' cafes, or along the old and narrow Rue Nkuve at
your left.

The Boulevard will lead you to the Place Brouckere, center
of activity, and one of the squares where you will want to stroll
and listen to and watch a busy town.

16

The Place de la Monnate, with its famous Opera Hi
Theatre Royal de la Monnate — and the impressive classically
styled Stock Exchange Building, is jusl a stone's throw from the
Place Brouckere. The center of interest to you as traveller, bow-
ever, will be the Grande Place, which is without a doubt one of
the finest squares on the Continent. This square has seen a great
deal of Brussels history. Formerly the central market place, it
has now become a mecca for tourists. Its picturesque Guildhalls,
the Town Hall with its carved spire and the Maison du Roi arc a

few of its most beautiful buildings.

The Towx Hall (Hotel de Yille). with its medieval from, occu-
pies most of the south side of the square, and was built during the
years 1-102-54. This building with its historic portraits and
eighteenth century tapestry, can he visited every day of the week.
Each of the house- of the Guildhalls has its individual character
and the quaint Hall or the Boatmen (number 6) will undoubt-
edly attract you most.

It is also in this part of the town that you will find the statue
of Mannikin Pis, which has become the mascot of all Bruxellois.
The i iad it ion goes that this statue was erected by a thankful father
after the recovery of his lost child. The father made a vow that

17

if his child were returned to him, lie would build a fountain on the
spot where his son was found and surmount it with a statue depict -
ing the little boy in the exact attitude in which he was discovered.
Go and see Mannikm Pia and you will know in wlmi position he
was found.

The Upper Town centers around the Place Royale. In the mid-
dle of this square is the statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, leader of the
first Crusade. From here you enter the elegant court quarters and
I he radiating Si reets of the upper town, The Royal Library. Bel-
gium"- national library, and the MUSEUM op Modekx Aim- are both
located in that part of the city. The Museum of Old Masters,
which ranks among the best art collections in Europe, is nearby
and can be reached by following the Rue de la Regence in the di-
rection of the Law Courts. Past this Mu-euni is i he Church of
Notre Dame-du-Sablon, construction of which was begun in 1304
and not finished until the 16th century. The Palais de JUSTICE
(Law Courts), which went up in flame- (hiring the German retreat
in September 1944, was said to have been the largest architectural
creation of the nineteenth century. The Royal Palace, erected
in the first part of the nineteenth century, and the Parliament
House are alio situated in that part of the city.

(

r

If you want to admire another perfect specimen of Gothic arch-
itecture, you should visit the Collegiate Church of Saints Michael
and Gudula, commonly known as Stb. Gudule, the principal
church of Brussels.

Among Brussels* parks, the Ctnquantenatre is one of the best
known. It is laid out in formal gardens and ornamented with
sculpture. The Palais de ('ixqcaxten-aire. an impressive building
comprising six parts, and one of Brussels' landmarks, is on the
i-a.-l side of the Park.

Apart from Brussels itself, a visit to the immediate surroundings
of tlie city i- more than worth while. The FOREST OF SoiONES,
which stretches from the southern edge of Brussels to the village of
Waterloo, and the Bois l)E la Cambre are favorite resorts of Brus-
sels' residents. A mil to the village of Waterloo will place you in
the heart of the battlefield where the final defeat of Napoleon took
place. The Church to the right of the main road contain- a me-
morial to British troops killed in the battle of Waterloo, a bust of
Wellington, and numerous tablets to the memory of British offi-
cers. Opposite is the house — now a cafe — called "An Quartier-
General de Wellington," in which Wellington slept on the eve of
the battle.

18

668674' — 14-

19

If you visit Brussels during the summer mouths you must nol
miss a trip along the picturesque road to the village of Tebveuben,
some sis miles outside Brussels. The beautiful park of Terveuren
will soon put yon in a romantic mood, while the Congo JIu-i i u
offers you one of the world's most interesting collections of colonial
art and life.

Brussels can supply any kind of recreation you warn from sports
to night-clubs, from concerts by world-famous orchestras and
soloists to operas and theaters. One of ihe more characteristic
forms of recreation, however, is sitting in one of the numerous
sidewalk cafes. It is here thai you will learn to know Brussels
and iis people best, because it is here that the Bruxellois Bips his
cup of coffee, or glass of beer while watching the passers-by, telling
his companion the latest gossip of the day, or flirting with a charm-
ing Bruxelloise.

Eating out in Brussels used to lie a recreation in itself. Re-
memberthat especially in Brussels the most unpretentious looking
places often have ihe best cookinjr. When you want to give your
purse a breathing spell, there arc plenty of -till more modest places

where you ran »h a satisfactory meal at wry reasonable prices.
Beer is the most popular drink with your meal, while ihe best

20

qualities of French wine- can lie obtained in all pood restaurants,
A cafe filtre, coffee in an individual drip pot, i> usually served
after meals.

As you probably know, Belgium has two national langu
French and Flemish. Brussels i- situated on the border of the
linguistic line and therefore ii i- a bilingual city. Most members
of the prosperous classes use French in their daily conversation,
while Flemish i> more widely used by the inhabitants of the outer
dist licts and the working classes. Brussels is the center of Bel-
gium's dense communication system and you will therefore have
no difficulty in traveling from here to any of ihe other Belgian
cities. If you arc not hurried, a journey by Vicinaim (a cross be-
tween a trolley car and a train), i- ideal for sightseeing.

21

GHENT

Ghent, situated at tin- confluence of the rivers Lys and Scheldt is
the capital of East Flanders. No other town has played so im-
portant a role in Flemish history as Ghent, whirl, explains why
it has at present one of the richest collections of buildings and
monuments dating from every age.

Founded in 980, Ghent was successively one of the world's main
centers of grain trade and the weaving industry. During the
eleventh century, the weaving industry brought the city an un-
surpassed prosperity which ended in the fourteenth century with
the growth of wool manufacturing in England. During the Hun-
dred Years War. Jacob van A-rtevelde, friend and confidant 'it'
Edward II of England, secured the neutrality id' Flanders, thus
insuring a supply of wool to England. Assassinated a- a result
of his policy of favoritism toward England, he war- succeeded
by hi- -on Philip van Arteveldc. who became Regent of Flanders
in 1382. It was Philip ran Artevelde who led the citizens of Ghent
in the unsuccessful struggle against the French overlords. In
L540 the men of Ghent were equally unsuccessful in their rebel-

22

23

.

lion againsl the rule of Emperor Charles V. Until thai time
Ghenl had been one of the leading cities in Europe and during
that period the wealth of the Ghent Burghers was equalled by
their turbulent spirit of independence. With the outbreak of
the religious strifes in the Netherlands the fortunes of the citj
suffered a decline. After 1714 Ghenl formed pari of the Aus-
trian Netherlands. In 1814 it was incorporated in the Kingdom
of the United Netherlands and after L880 it became part of
Belgium.

Ghent with its population of 164,000 is the second port of Bel
gium. There is perhaps no other town of its size in the world
which can boast of such a succession of towers and spires and
turrets. Ghent S industrial center lias been developed primarily
ai the outskirts of il ity, leaving in peace its beautiful monu-
ments.

The principal approach from the station to the city is the
Koktki.ikm hi: St. knweg. From here you can visit the Citadel
Park, which is noted for its beautiful lawns and Bower gardens
and the Muski m ok Fink Arts, which although not comparable
with ihe galleries .if Brussels and Antwerp is still worth a visit
especially if you are fond of the old Dutch and Flemish masters.

24

The Kouter, or Place i>'Ai:mks. is the market place which you
reach soon after walking through the Kortrijksche Steenweg, the
Nederkodte and the Schouwburg Plaats. On your way you may
take time out to admire the Abbey of Btlocke, which is now tra ns-
formed into an interesting Archaeological Museum, and the
classical early 19th century construction of the Law Courts. The
State University of Ghent, founded in 1815 is not too distant.
Once there, you are in the neighborhood of the fourteenth century
Belfry, or Bel fort as it is called in Flemish, with its famous
chimes. At the base of the tower is the Cloth Tower. The Bel-
fry ha- ;, casl iron steeple on the top of which is a gold dragon
which, according to tradition, was brought from Constantinople
either by the Varangians or by the Emperor Baldwin after the
Latin conquest.

Among the other important buildings is the Cathedral of St.
Bavon. Its interior, one of the most richly decorated of any
church, contains the masterpiece of the Van Eyck Brother.-. "The
Adoration of the Lamb." However, there were reports during
the war that this famous aitai piece had been stolen by the Ger-
man.-. The Town Hall with its two-part facade, one in Gothic
Style dating from 1518 and that facing the market in Renaissance

25

style oi 1595-1621, should be visited for its beautiful interior, li
is bere that the Pacification of Ghent was signed.

The Chobch of St. Michael, built in the first part of the seven-
teenth century contains many well known paintings including
the "Crucifixion" by Van Dyck. The Castle of the Counts of
Plandebs, Gravensteen, dating from the 12th century and show-
ing you a magnificent example of a medieval fortress, i> one of

Ghent's landmarks. This dieval fortress, the stronghold of

the early counts of Flanders, was restored to the city after serv-
ing for Dearly 100 years as a factory. In the eastern part of i he
city you can visit the Castle of Gerard the Devil (1245) and the
Little and Great Beguinages. The Great Bkguinage is one of
the most interesting institutions of Ghent; originally established
in 1234 near the Bruges gate, it was transferred in 1874 to the
suburb of St. Amandsberg. The Beguinage constitutes a little
town in itself, surrounded by walls and a moat, and contains nu-
merous -mall houses, eighteen convents and a church.

Although a description of Ghent sounds like an enumeration
of buildings, the individual history and aspect of each one gives
the city a legendary character which sets it apart from all other-.

26

Apart from its beautiful sights, Ghent does not offer you any
special recreation such as can be found in Antwerp and Brussels.
While in Ghent remember that you are in one of Flanders' great
cities, so if you happen to know a few words of French don't
show them off here unless the person to whom you arc speaking
has asked you to do so.

27

LIEGE

28

LIEGE

Lieoe, cultural center of French-speaking Belgium, is the capital
of tin' province of the same name, with a population of 250,000.
Like most of the Flemish towns, Liege, often called the capital of
Wallonia, 1ms gone through man; si ruggles since the Middle Ages
in order to preserve that liberty so dear i<> the Belgians.

The city of Liege was founded by St Lambert, Bishop of Maas-
tricht In the Fourteenth century il became the capital of the
prince-bishopric of Liege, which for four hundred year- retained
its independence of the Southern Netherlands. Strife betw
the citizen- of Liege arid the prince bishop was frequent through-
out thai period. During the last century Liege was Burrounded
by a ring of forts and the city played an important rule in both
the first ami (he present World W tirs.

Liege enjoys a remarkable location at the confluence of the
Meube and the < kinm.. al the base of .-laic hill- rising steeply en
all .-ides.

The broad tree-lined streets which run parallel with the Mease
enclose the inner city. The t una n of St. •' imes. mi a square to

29

the right of the Boulevard d'Avroy. dales back to the sixteenth
century and is a fine example of late Gothic style. Apart from
its richly ornamented interior special attention should be given to
i he stained-glass windows.

The Cathedral ob St. Pact, is a thirteenth century building
willi some a. I. lil ions from I lie sixteenth century. The Law Conns
(Palais de Justice) is one of the most noteworthy buildings of
Liege. Erected in 1526 by Bishop Eberhard de la March as the
palace of the prince-bishop, it is ranged around two courtyards.

The eighteenth century Town Hail and Corm Exchange are
both in the same neighborhood, an. I not too Ear away from there
is the Citadel Park. This park, which is laid oul at a height of
more than 500 led on the wall foundations of the former citadel,
offers a splendid dew over the city.

The Ansemboubg Mi si i m. housed in an eighteenth century pa-
trician residence, the (hubch of St. Bartholomew, a romanesque
basilica of the lltli and li'th centuries, an.l the CtJHTir/S Mr/SEl m.
which contains a collection of Roman and FranMsh antiquities,
are three other buildings of interest.

The beauty of Liege, however, is not limited to iis magnificent
buildings and monuments. lis picturesque quays on the river

30

Meuse ami their bridges, linking the lefl hank of the Meuse with
the island hounded by that river and its tributary the Ourthe, St.
LaMBEBT's SQtTABE, where pigeons have made their home- as in
Si. Mark"- square in Venice, the M.\hki:i Place with its Perbok
Fountain, are favorite tourist centers which you should not miss.
Liege offers you the same variety of recreation as most other
big cities. During the winter months you may go to the con-
certs for which Liege i- famous, while the summer months are
especially suited for excursions to the lovely Vesdre, Ourthe, and
Ambleve valleys. Furthermore, the magnificent health resorl af
Si'.\. with ils luxurious Casino, park- and avenue- i- not too far
from Liege. December and January are excellent months for an
excursion to Elsenborn where yon can practice youi favorite
winter spoil.

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OSTEND

Ostend is Belgium's leading seaside resort and the largest town on
tin 1 Belgian coast. The city's central position on Belgium's 41-mile
North Sea coast makes it an easy starting point for visits to such
other well known beaches as La Panne, Biankbhberoe, and Le

ZotJTE.

Ostend was a fishing village and a seaport long before ii became
a holiday resort. Fortified by the Prince of Orange in 1.583. it was
captured by the troops of the Archduke Albert in 1604 after a
three years 1 siege. The foundations <>t' Ostend as ii exists today
were laid at the end of the last century when the fortification- were
demolished. During the firsl World War Ostend was used by the
Germans as a submarine base.

The tourist season in Ostend is from June to September, and
although the city has many picturesqui sights you had better
visit nearby Bruges during the winter month- and reserve your
time off during the hot August days for relaxation at Ostend's
beach. Ajnong the interesting buildings of the city, mention
should be made of the Gothic Chirk h op SS Peter and Pauu eon-

32

33

tabling a chapel and mausoleum of Queen Marie-Louise, first
queen of Belgium. The Place d'Abmes, with its eighteenth cen-
tury Town Hall where you will find a collection <>f paintings by
the famous contemporary Ostend artist James Elisor, is also worth
your time. However, Ostend is primarily a seaside resort. lis
Digue, or Pkomenade, its Casino, its bathing beach oii Grande
Plage are the city% real centers of attraction. Ostend offers a
wide mii ici v of recreation. The Casino is known for its festivals
and concerts of classical works with Leading stars under the direc-
tion of Fan s conductors. Apart from this the Casino is known

for its gaming rooms and dance hulls.

In the afternoon the sidewalk cafes on the Promenade attract
most tourists 1 attenl ion. A cup of coffee or a 'li-h of ice cream is
all you have to order, and you can spend the afternoon watching
the passers-by and observing the milling crowds on the beach.
As evening falls, a walk on the Promenade to view the sun setting
.hi the water will offer you a spectacle not soon to be forgotten.

34

LUXEMBOURG

[lie city of Luxembourg gave it- name to the Grand-Duchy

1,000 square milea, 300, ' inhabitants} of which ii is the capital

and by far the largest town, With its three suburbs of Ghund,
( lausen, and Pfaeeenthai, it numbers 60,000 inhabitants. Ii is
the residence of the sovereign (Grand-Duchess Charlotte), the
seat of government, and of a Roman Catholic Bishop. French is
the official language, but German is also universally understood.
The people however, commonly speak "the Luxembourg tongue",
a Frankish dialect.

The name Luxembourg, formerly Liitzelburg. is derived from a
Frankish word signifying "Little Outpost' 1 and recalls the gift
by Charles Martel of a fragment of the Merovingian Empire to the
Abbey of St. Maximin at Trier. In 968, the "little outpost" was
reded" by i he monks to Siegfried, an Ardennes noble who became
the first count "1' Luxembourg. He laid the foundations of the
fortress which his succsssors elaborated.

Among the most notewori hy of the many sieges which ihe
fortress of Luxembourg endured were those of L684, when it fell

35

36 .

to Louis XIV. King of France, and of 1794-1795. when ii resisted
for eight months the Revolutionary Armies of France. From
L81S to 1867, when ii was dismantled in accordance with the treaty
of London, the fortress was regarded as an inland Gibraltar.

Luxembourg was invaded by the Germans in August, 1914.
and was occupied mil i 1 -i-l November, 1918, when it was entered by
American (mop-. Ii was again invaded bj Germany on 10 May,
1940, and liberated again by United States soldiers, 12 September,
1 j 1 1 1

The palatial A. R. B. E. D. BuiLnix.;. built in L9M 22 in
Renaissance style, is located on the Avenue de la Liberte (Frei-
beitsstrasse). It houses the head office of the Acieries Reunies
Bouebach, Eich, Dudelange (United Steelwork- of Burbaeh, Kick
and Dudelange), the largesl industrial concern in the Grand-Duchy
and one of the largesl in Europe. Farther along, on the same
side of the Avenue is the head office of the National Savings Bank
i ( 'aisse d'Kparjruc. Sparka^e) which, like thai of the < rUlLLAT ME-
Luxemboubg Railway, opposite, is in medieval style. Next you
cross the Adolphe Bkiih-.e (Pont Adolphe). It was designed by
SejournS, engineer of the French Railway in 1903. In a single
arch of 280 ft. it spans the ravine of the P&i usse. The Boulevard

37

du Viaduc. nn tlic northern brink of the ravine, leads Oil the right

to the Place de la Constitution where a i men! rises in honor

ci' the Luxembourg volunteers killed in World War I. It is re-
ported i" have been destroyed by the Nazis in 1942. Here also is
an entrance to ilie Petrusse Casemates. ;i series of shellproof
underground gun-emplacements ami connecting galleries first con-
structed by the Spaniards in 107 1 ami extended by subsequent de-
fenders of Luxembourg, namely, the French, Austrians ami

Prussians. These lerground fortifications which were blasted

mil of tlic rock have a total length of 1l' mile- ami greater diversity

than the catac lis of Rome or Paris.

A short street on the left of the Place de la Const itution lead- on
the right-hand side to a former Jesuit <-ollr,<_ r e founded in L594. It

-i ill house- i he AtHENee or grand-ducal college and I he Nation m
Library (Bibliotheque Nationale) of SO .000 volume--. The former
college '■Impel, next door, constructed in 1618. has become the
Cathedral of Notbe-Dame. Ii has an interesting Renaissance
portal, its altars are Renaissance while the rest of the interior is
in gothic style. To the left of the entrance is i he cenotaph of John
the Blind. Count of Luxembourg and King of Bohemia, who was
killed at Crecy | L846). Beyond the Cathedral are the Government

38

Offices (Hotel du Gouvernement). Opposite, the Rue di Posse
(Grabenstrasse) leads into the spacious Place Gxtillatime (Wil-
helmsplatz) named after the equestrian statue (by Merci^of Lyon)
of William II. King of Holland and t i rand-Duke of Luxembourg.
This square is the Scene of weekly markets (Wednesday and
Saturday) and is Hanked on the south by the nineteenth-century
Town IIaix (Hotel de Ville). A passage on the north side of the
square links it with the Place d'Armes (Waffenplatz, renamed by
the Nazi invaders "Adolf Hitler Plat/."). In the Place d'Armes
i- the Municipal Palace, also called "Cercle," in French renais-
sance style, and opposite a moniuneiil by Federspiel in honor ol
the Luxembourg poets Dirk- and Lentz. North of the Pi
d'Armes is the Grand'rue (Grosstrasse), the shopping center of
I he I own.

On ih" left the Grand'rue extends to the Park, laid out in 187-2,
enclosing the city on the north and west and dividing it from the
residential suburb of Limpebtsber», Among ii- glades and fine
flower-beds — Luxembourg is known as "eitj of roses" — are the
-i i alios of the Broadcasting Station (Radio Luxembourg) near the
center, the statue of Princesse A.me'lie by Ch. Pet re of Nancy, and
at the northern end the Pescatore Foundation, an institution for

39

the aged. A beautiful terrace in front of the latter commands a
magnificent view of the suburb of Pfaffenthal whirl! preserves
fragments of barracks and other buildings erected by Vauban.
The house in which Goethe stayed during his visit to Luxembourg
in October L792, can be seen from here. In the woods, jusi oppo-
site, are three old powder towers, called the Trois Glands (Three
Acorns).

The GrandVue ends on the right at the Marche-acx-Herbbs
i Kitiutmarkl >, close to which are the Law Courts (Palais de Jus-
tice) dating in pari from the sixteenth century. On the left -
<>f the Rue tin Marche-aux-Herbes is the Grand-Duc w. I'w.u i
erected in 1572-73 in Spanish Renaissance style. Next to ii is
the nineteenth-century Chamber of Depdties (Chambre des
Deputes), the Luxembourg Parliament

At the rear of the Palace is the quiet Marcbe-aux-Poissons
(Fish-Market), once the center of the city. On the noi-th side isthe
National Museum (Musee National) with excellent archaeologi-
eal collections and ooted for its Gallo-Roman antiquities. On the
south is the Cm rch of St. Michel, in flamboyant style. At the
side of the church i- the approach to the eighteenth century Castle
Bridge (Pont du Chateau, Schlossbrucke), linking the inner city

40

with the Bock (Bouc), a rocky "peninsula" formed by a bend in
the Alzette. One of the most striking corners of Luxembourg, the
Bock is crowned by remnants of sixteenth-century fortifications.
To the righl of the Castle Bridge is an entrance to the Buck Case-
mates. Hence, the Chemtn de IiA Corniohe (Corniche Road),
clinging to the rock above the Alzette, runs southward to the Saint-
Esprit (Heiliggeist) Barracks, headquarters of Luxembourg's
volunteer army of 180 officers and men. On the farther side of the
Barracks, the Viaduct, built in 1859-61 span- the ravine of the
Petrusse on 25 arches. On the south, ii passes to the right of the
fourteenth-century Chapel of St, QunuNua (Chapelle St.-Qui-
rin ) . built above a grotto.

All hotels have restaurant services for lunch and dinner. The
best and cheapest breakfasts, however, arc bought in bakeries or
tea-rooms (patisseries). Local specialties are Luxembourg
(cooked) cheese and Ardennes (Bsleck) ham. The national drink
is "Grechen," a natural, early Moselle wine, but fruit brandies,
such as "quetsch, mirabelle, and Kirsch" are very popular i<»>. and
are usually consumed in Mack coffee after a meal. The besl coffee
is the cafe-filtre, Berved in a glass with an individual dripolator.
Side walk cafes are all over town,

41

It is easy to reach the town of Esch (Alzbtte, 30,000 inhabi-
tants) from Luxembourg. Situated 12 miles southwest of the
capital, this great industrial center has extensive iii. n and Bteel
works.

Mondohf ill miles southeast of Luxembourg) ia a spa belong-
ing to the State, The Thermal Establishment stands in a

w led part of 90 acres on the outskirts of the town. Sis miles

beyond Mbndorf lies Remicb on (he Moselle, noted for it- wine
and its bathing beach.

The mosl striking natural beauties such as strange rock foun-
dations and rapid streams can be found in Luxembourg's Minia-
ture Switzerland, of which Luxembourg's most ancienl town
EcHTEBTJACH (14 miles northeast of Luxembourg) is the center.

Remnants of medieval castles can be seen in Viumn. Esch
Stjre, Cl m:\.m x (Ci.i:i,-f) ami in many villages of the Ardennes.
All these localities are within 80 or 40 miles of Luxembourg and
can be reached easily by train, bus or bicycle.

FONDREN LIBRARY
Sout thodltt University

42

I fO POINTING OFriCI 1944