Pocket guide to the cities of Southern France

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THE CITIES OF
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WAR DEPARrMENT . WASHINGTON, D. C

POCKET GUIDE TO

THE CITIES OF SOUTHERN
FRANCE

For use of Military Personnel only. Not to he

Tepublis/icd, m whole or in part, without the

consBTit of fhr War Department

Prepared by

ARMT IXFOKMATIOX BRANCH,

IKFOBMATKJN' AND EUUCATICIX DIVISION, A. B. F.,

UNITED STATES ABMY

ATTENTION

About the only fliiiijr in tliiw liooklel tliiil cun be ftunriinteed is
tbi- tcrniiu. Tlie rest of it is up lo tlie fortunes or iiiiwforlunes of
wiir. Miiiiy of Ibe towns and cities described lu>rt' liave been
bombed and shelled by us as we approached, and shelled by tbp
enemy as he retreated. And many of tbeni will still show the
nmrks of the deslniciioji vif^ited upon them when these lands were
being conquered and occupied by the Germans.

The slioi't historical luites and city plans concerning most of the
towns are correct a.-^ of I lie outbreak of the war. Bui Ihe changes
of war were si ill happening in many places when this pocke! guide
went to pre.'is.

Yon may find that art treasures described and located in these
pages have been looted or destroyed, and it may be years before
those that can he restored are sights (o see again. On Ihe other
hand, some of them, by a stroke lA good fortune, may be left intact
and you will be able to enjoy them.

Ill

And another thing; if some of these towns slionld be declared
off limits, yun'fl bypass tlieni, of convse. Perhaps later, they may
be open to you.

Food and drink are discussed here, so that as times gLadiially
return to normal, you may be guided in llie tastes and customs of
ihe country. But be sure that yoii ;ire not encouraging a bhick
liiorket 01- bringing liai'dsiiip to the native civilian population if
you take advantage of wliat the town or I'egion has to offer. You
will receive direction from the pi'oper authority in this matter.

Anyhow, so far as your military duties permit, see as much as
you can. You've got -i great uhance to do now, major expeuses
paid, what would cosi you a lot of your own money after the war.
Take advantage of it.

CONTENTS

I BtlRDEADX 1

(.'ANNEa 11

Caecasbonne 19

I.tMOQES 25

I..YON 31

Marseille 39

Monte Carlo 51

Nice 55

TfiuLON 59

TOULODSK 69

VicnT 81

IV

Areachon

Cap Ferret

Bergerac

Angouleme.feris

BORDEAUX

The first time you ever lieai'd of BciiiDEArx was proliably when yon
wcri' II kid and your dad was telling: aliuiit when he went t<i war.
In AVorUl War I Hordeaus was one of eight American base ports
in Fi'aiK'e. Tlie dofijb at Hassens near liordeaux were c"nstructPt4
by the U. S. Ai-my Engineers. Bassens was also the port where
Lafayette embarked fur America in 1777.

'J'lie city of B(ir<lejiiix is iiol directly on the sea us yon might
think when yon hjolc al a map. It is more like New Orleans on the
MissisM|tpi, because the port i.s 60 miles soitflieaHt from the At-
hintic up t!ie GiHONnr: Esitary and GAiioNNK Rivei:. By land,
however, Bordeaux is only 30 miles east fn)m the Bay (if Biscay
across the flat Jliuot: 1'k.n insula.. Its population before the war,
263,(100. iuad(! it the fourth hirge.st city in France.

Everybody knows what Bordeaux is famous fur — wine.

The entrance lo the Giroiide Estuary is about 450 miles fi'oni
Plymoiiih, (he iLcarest big Eiigli>,h port. Al Le Vpuidon on Pointe
i»E GiiAVE, the southern portal of the estuary, is a luoiiuinent com-

VI

iiieniorntiiig the dppartiire of Liifnvftle lUii'iiiy the Revoliitioiiiu-y
War and the laiuliitg of Anierit-ini soldiers 'm 1917.

The dianiiel is narrinv and diflieuli for hii'ge whips. Good aii-
duiriifre IB |)leiitifiil. From Le Verdoii where tlie esdiary is sis
miles wide, it tapers iiikiul providing a port and f^paeious aiiehor-
age at P.Ariij,.\c. 3l) tuiles upstream. A ehain of ishiuda extends
for 15 mile^ iipsireani to the innemiosl i)oiiit of the estuary wliere
the Giironne and the Dordocne rivers join,

Bordeaux is 1-2 iiiile.s from that river jnnetion, and it is only
three miles fnrtlier to liassens and its two miles of wharves.

The eity of Bordeaux is bailt in a enrve alonir the west liank
of the Giiro]nie. Quays and wavehon-^es line the shore iur fonr
raUes. The- river here is about one-tliJrd of a mile wide. Aerosa
the river is the suhurb of La Bastide whidi can be reuehod by
bridge or ferry.

The harbor i-an handle the largest seagoing ships, but smaller
craft also carry the conHnerce of Bordeaux upstream on the Ga-
ronne and over the Lateral and Midi Canals to the Mediterranean.
Excnrsioji steamers also ply the river in suiiniier.

Bordeaux has been a flourishing town since Eoman times.
Then as Biirdigalait was a provincial capital. It endured ihej-oke

and devastation of Vaiidiils, Visigoths, Franks, and Normans and
its prosperity increased during tiie English occupation of Guyenne
from 1154 to 14M. Liberties accorded to the town by the Eugiisli
crown increased its eomnierce. and in 1451 when the French king.
Cluirles Yll, cajjtui'ed Bordeaux and attempted to restrict civic
liberties, the Bordelais welcomed the English with open anus when
they returned in tbe battle of Caslilloii in 1453.

Later Louis XI encouraged the citizens by organizing the par-
liament of Guyenne and tiie UNivEKsrrr. Some of the monarch^
who came later were le.ss far sighted, As a result the Bordelais
rebelled in 1548 against the "gabcUe." a f^irm of salt tax. During
the 18th century, counuerce expanded greatly. Governors ap-
pointed liy the crown spent a lot of money beautifying the city.

In 1S70 the French government was tra"nsfprred to Bordeaux
from Tours when the Germans were apjirtiacliing. Bordeaux
again became the seat of French government when Paris was
threatened by the Germans in August 1914.

Around the Town

The heart of modern Bordeaux is the Plage de la CoMiimE.
Across from the Place is the Grand The-Itre built in 1753-80 and

80i3iK8°— «-

restored in If^8I. Ii is one of the Hiicst theaters in Frujivt^ witli u
portico of 12 Coiiinliiiiii I'oluiiiiis. When llie yoveninioiit rctveated
to Bordeaux in 18<(1. it was in this tlifiiter tJnil tlie Xationa] As-
semhly conveiieil.

The Pont de Bordkaux, also ciillfd the Pont de Pierre, for iiikiiiy
centuries was looked n])on ns tlic Hnest hvu]gv in llie world. It
was built of stone and brick in 1811)-21. It is .-.."iO yai'iU lon<r. 16
yards wide and crosses tlio river in 17 bnpe arches. ' Y.m catrako
cross Ihe Garonne ovei- (he raih'oad b)'id<>;e or on llio Pont Tr.\xs
BoRDEDK far down>4lrca!n from the Pont dc Bordeaii.v.
' Tlie limits of old Bordeaux are niai'kod by the Codhs Victor-
I Hdgo. The old city did not extend in llie i.i'hcr dii-edion bcvoml
Ihe Place dks Quinconcks. which was built on the site once oecii-
pied by a castle. Tlic'Miuai'e is 42G yards long and 36U yards wide.
The soiitliwcsf corner of ihc Place ile.s Qninconees opens into the
Phice de la Conu'die.
f The two main shopping sireet.s of Bordeaux aie the Comis dd
CiiAPEAV-RtiuiiE and the Rue Sfk. Catherine,

One of the liveliest scenes in Bortlcaux is the Alli^e.-; de Todrnt
w-hich you can reach easily from the Pl,\ce des Quinconces. The
Cours de Tourny leading out of the Allrea runs into the Plack

(iAMBETTA. Here, during the Teri'of. there used to be a guillotine f
which lopped oif Ihe beads of more than 300 victims. '

If you are of literary bent, yoit woit't want to miss the chief
treasure of the library on the Rite Marly, next dooi' lo the Church
OF NoTHE Dame, The library's big attraction is a copy of the ■
Essays of Montaigne, The author himself wrote in the footnotes i
and marginal comments. The library also contains 200,000 books i
and 3,940 unpublished manuscripts.

The finest promenade in B(n'deaux is the Jardix Puulic laid out
hy the Marquis de Toui-ney. The Jardin includes an EngHsh park
and a well stocked b()tanical garden with large hothouses. The
MosEUM OF Natural History here used to be the old Hotel de
Lialefernie.

From the Jardin PiiliUc you can leave by the southwest gate
near the nuiseum and follow the Rueou Colisi^e to the Palais Gal-
lien. The Palais is Ihe ruin of a 3rd centuiy Roman amphithea-
ter. The structure was badly damaged during the Revolution,
The Palais Gallien got its name from tbe P'lnperor Galliemis who
died in 2(58, He was supposed to have founded the amphitheater,

Thei-e are several churches and cathedrals in Bordeaux that
ought tol)e worth your wbile. St. SEfniN, neai' the Palais (lallien.

is a cJinrdi biiill on (lio r^ili' i.f an Cinlier rulliedral. Phii-ts of tlii'
building tlutu from the 13tli lo l«i]i ceiitiirics. Across from ihe
spacious square occupied by St. Scurin is ilie Hortx de Ville. It
was built between 1771-81. but was dcslroyed by fire. H was re-
stored ill 1866. Tlie bnildinfr .sci-vcd as the Imperial Palace in
1808 ami tlie I'oyul residence in 1S16.
( One of the Iw.'^l (iotliic churclics in soullicrn France is the Cathe-
; URAL OF St. Andhe, You can reach it from the Pont de Bordeaux
by the Coiirs Victor-Hugo. Another (Jothic edifice is the church
of St. Michel. Il is near Ihe river a little above ihe Pont de
Bordeaux. The hell tower of .'^l. Michel is 360 feet hish. the hijrh-
est ill southern France. The i-pire was built in 1472-92. but a gale
destroyed it in 1768. It was rebuilt in 18G1-9 and has been
strengthened by six buttresses, so don't hesitate to make a trip up
into the tower if yon get a chance.

The cliurcb <if Ste. (.'roix is in the artisan quarter southeast of
St. Michel and was once the chapel of a powerful Benedictine abltoy.
Ste. Croix was founded in the 7th cenlm*y. rebuilt in Roman-
esque style in the 10th ccniury. altered ^vcral tinuv. and re-
stored to its i^resent condition in the l!)tli centnry. The Rue

Sti^. Citoix takes you between the churches of St. Miehel and Ste.
Crrii X.

Enicrlaimnent should be no problem in Bordeaux. There are
many theaters' and music hails, and al the Areiies du Bouscat be-
yond the Pare Bordelais you can see plays, bull fights and horse
races. There is another race track at Valence on the road to
Gradignau.

Bordeaux Wine

The UKJst beautiful sight for a thirsty soldier would be froiti the
middle of (he Pont de Bordeaux. There you l(«>k out over the_5'^
miles of quays and know that there ai'e nioi'e wine cellars in that"
river curve than anywiiere else in the world.

Xext" to the wine cellars, Bordeaux's biggest [irodttction centers
are the shipyards where boats are built and refilled. Tlie two in-
dnslries go hand in hand l>eeause ships Jiave carried more and
betler wine onl i»f liordeaux (han froiii any other port.

All wine which comes from Bordeaux is not necessarily '"Boi'-
deaux wine." For the last 7U0 years the mereliants of Bordeaux
have been shelling mil a iol of cash to make that naiLLe mean .some-
lliing. The lawyers of Bordeaux have shown a lot of ingenuity

in trying to decid*! wliidi wines were and which were not entitled
to the use nf that name. On Febniiiry 18. 1911, a natidnal law
was passed whiuli said that the only wines which can he sold as
■'Boi-deanx wine" are ihiwe made fi'om grapeh gathered within the

GlHONDE DkFABTHENT.

The Gironde Department is an area named after the Gironde
Esliiary. Before the wai' llie Department was lui'ningont moir
than 84,000,(1011 jfalluns nf wine a year — al! of it "Bordeanx wine."

The best Bordeaux wines are made from the vineyarils of a par-
tictihirly good estate, and they are always sold under the name of
(heir native estate. If you want to order the finest of all Bordeaux
wines, here are a few of them : Chateau Lafite, Chateau Marganx.
Chalean Latour, Chateau Haut Brion, Chateau Ausone, and
Chateau Yquem.

Tile better ehiss of Bordeaux wine is hidden away in a cask fur
three or more years before it is bottled. After that, the longer it
is in the bottle, the better everyone will tell you it is.

Bordeaux wines are bottled either "'at the ehateau" in the cellars
of the estate where the wuie is made, or "at Bordeaux" by the Bor-
deaux merchants, or in any part of the world by the dealers who
import their wines in casks and bottle it themselves.

A;(,-

CANNES

If yon should liuppen to draw smuo duty in, or maiiiige to visit,
Cannes, you'll be kickiiifr around in one of tlie oldest luid most
aristoci'iilic resorts alouff llie entire Riviera. For 110 years
Cannes lias been a fashionable vacation spot foi' geTieralions of
Europe's wealthiest people. The city is 85 miles east of Marseille
and 17 miles southwest of Nice.

The origins of Cannes go back to llie Greeks and the Eomans,
but even as late as 1763 no one would have been able to predict
(h-at it would one day be the fashionable gathering-place it has
bK'oniejy'"Tn that yeai' the British novelist Tobias Suiollelt visited
Canne.s and described it as "a little fishing town agreeably situated
on the beach of the sea." Tiie I'eal "tli?^i-ovci'er" of Cannes was
Lord Brougham, Lord Chaneclior of England in 1831, and it came
about by chance. He was on liis way to Nii^e, tJien belonging to
Sardinia, and he was refused pei'inission to cross the fi-ontier
because of a small epidemic of cbolera. He decided to wait at
Cimnes, fell for its iiatui-al beauty, and built himself a villa there.
This bi-ought the village ijito notice. The people of Cannes know

10

eosjss'-^i-

11

whiit Lord Bruiifrliitm did for tlieir city. Tliey erected a statue
to liis memory in tiie Allee ue la LiBEJiTE.

The modern city is on a broiid sweepinjr curve of coast witli
Cap de la Croisette to the cast, aiid a small jiill. Mont Chevalieh.
to the west. The old milled towji, called Aeg/tna, is built on Mont
Chevalier. On lop of the height which projects into the sea are
a church nnd an old chateau. At the eastern base of the hill is
the harbor. In peacetinie it was used mostly by pleasure yachts
iind fishing craft. Vessels drawing more than 18 feet must,
heave to aboxit 300 yards beyond the jetties which ring the inner
harbor.

The wide Proso^nade de u Csoisette, lined with palm frees and
scores of hotels, borders tlie sea. Jlost of the principal hotels are
closed all summer.

Mountains along the coast here recede far enough from the
shoi-e to leave room for a broad inland zone which has as many
hotels and villas as the beach strip itself. These foothills of the
Maritime Alps protect the Riviera resorts from cold north winds.

Before the war Cannes was the European center for polo,
horse-racing, yachting, tennis, and sea bathing. Tile city's
Municipal Casino, where the Promenade de la Croisette begi'ns,

12

contains a theater', gaming rooms, ball room, and restaurant.
Symphony concerts wei-e always a reguhir jiart of the casino's
schedule. Horse races were held at the Pl.\ine de la Napule in
January and February. Spring and summer were the seasons for
yachting regattas.

At the west end of the Allee. where the Lord Bi-ougham statue
stands, is tlie Hotel de Ville wiiji the Mus]':i-: Kithsciiild upstairs.
Steep sireets and a flight of stcjjs lead uji frfim the Hotel de Ville
to the highest part of the Old Town and the church of Notre-
Dame 1)k l'Espkrance. completed in 1648, Behind the church is
the 70- foot TouHDTiMoxT-CriEVALiKii, built between H)70and 138,'),

The jetty hounding and tlie hai'bor on the east is the .Tetke
Albert Edouard, named in honor of the Prince of Wales who vpaa
gi'andfather of the present Duke of Windsor. Motor launches
will take yon from the Jeteeto the islands of Ste. Marguerite and
St. Ho nor at.

On Sle. Marguerite is the fort built by Richelieu where you can
see the bare ceil in which the "Man in the Iron Mask" was im-
prisoned by Louis XIV for 11 years. Nobody has ever been able
to establish who the masked prisoner was, but there are plenty
of theories. Some of them are that he was the twin brother of

13

Louis XrV. the illegitiiiiiite son of Lmiis XIV. ur ilie swi nf Oliver
Cromwe]]. In any case, his mask was not iion at aU, but silk or
velvet.

You may fin.I the smaller islnml. St. Honor^t, even more inter-

esliiig. The conveiit m rhis island was fi.unded in 410 by Saint

Honoratiis, and legt-mj hits i( that one of his early iiioiiivs was Saint

, Patrick, the same Saint Patrick who later drove the snakes ont of

yj' Ireland.

On the sonth coaf^t of St. Hmxn'iU is an old castle, built in 10S8,
which was once fortified to protect ihe people who lived there from
pirates,

Anlibes Not Far Away

^ Ahoul half way between Cannes and Nice is the smaller re-wrt
city of Antihes. The prewar population of Cannes' year-roinul
residents was about 50,000. while ihat of .\nfihes was about 14,000.
The town was formerly fortified, but all the ramparts except old
Fort Carre have been demolished.

Antibes lies between two little bays on the Gulf of Xice and on
the west side of Cap d* Antibes, a two-mile-long peninsula. Its re-
sort areas were always considered less exjjensive than those of

14

Cannes and Xice, The name Antibes comes from the word Anti-
'/loJ/'-i. nieaning "faciii;: the city"' (of Xice). The community was
founded about 3411 B. C.

Antibes liarboi' is jirolected by a mole 6-20 yards long. The cape
is ci-ossed by the Avenue Ai.bert-Premiei{. On Ihe Boeilevabd
Notre-Dame in La Cvbout'e. a ■240-f(iot hill witii an ancient chapel
and lifrhtln)nse which is famous for its view.

Not far from Cannes, a miU' inland in the oi>piisite direcliion
froTU Antibes, is Fhljtjs. This town of about 9,1100 was the naval
stronghold of the Caeaaj-s in Roman days. Although Arabs and
Barbary corsaii-s raided the old Roman arsenal iind reduced it to
ruins, there are still -.oine evidenrcs c,f the ancient c-am]>. Among
them are coastal ramparts, an amphitheater, and an aqueduct.

Two-miles east of Frejus is St. Raphael, the point of Xaptileoa's
arrival on retui'n fronj Egvi't in 1799 and his point of departure
for Elba in 1814.

Orange groves grow neai' Cannes in sight of suo\v-Ciip|)ed peaks,
and there are many acres of olive trees. The priueipal product
of the area, however, is flowers for the production of perfume in
the 30-odd perfume factories of Grasse, 12 miles from Cannes.

15

Where Perfume Is Big Business

Slost ol- lliL' an.OOO p.j])iil;iUoii of Gi'iisse used to lie working in
the perfimu' iliatillei-ics or e;iriiiy ftii' ilu' e'2.000 acres of violets,
jonqiiila, roses, migiioiielte, iasmiiie. tuberoses, and ciiniatioii.
The old section of Grasse is a tangle of wimling steep streets prac-
tically uneliunfred from the IStli ceiiiury, bnt modern Gra^se hits
ils casino with graining I'ooins. llicater, iind restaurant. Tlie main
center is llie I'homknadi: no Couhs.

Gi'asse is the birthplace of Jean Honort^ Fnigonard. 18th ceii-
tnrv painter, and in (he 1)oitlev.\iid Fragoxakd is a mnseinn con-
taining some of iiis original works.

Historians don't agree on the origins of Grasse. Some say it
was foinided by Cnissns in the 1st i-entnry B. C. and others eluini
it was settled by a colony of Sardinian Jews in the 6th eentnry.
In any case, it rose to commercial iinp'irlancc early, was sucked
by llic Saracens in the 9th cenlnry. and hecame aii iTidependent
comiiinnc in the 12th century.

Although Gras.'-e is some miles inlaiHl. you get a good virw of
the sea from the Promenade dii Cours.' The hospital in the
Bimi.Ev.vrn Victor Hroo has three early works by Rubens. The
busiest street in town is the Boui.kv.u(d' nu Jel--1)k-B.\luix wliich
16

begins at the casino and leads nortli to the Placi': de l^v Foux.
Foux is a local term for a s]»riiig, and water useii by the perfume
distilleries oonie.s from the "fou.\'' here. The city's drinking water
comes for a long distance through a conduit fnmi a stream called
the Fonlon.

The flower fields produce an anmnil hai'vest of 3.3(10,000 pounds
of roses, and 4.440,0111) pounds of orange blossoms. Visitors are
jieriniMed in some of the perfuuLcries. and if yon locik in on one
you'll find out it takes almost six tons of roses to make one pint of
sweet-smelling essence. Two pounds of orange blossoms will
squeeze out only one ounce of es.sence.

Grasse has another specialty — flowei-s and fruits crystallized in

^7

IB

CARCASSONNE

Take it from those v/ha kimw nljout wiirii tilings, you can ramble
llu' li'ii^th and breadth of Eiii-ope and you'll never find another
example of medieval fortification thai citii toucli (lie l.^tli-century-
old CiTii DE C.\m.'AsS(.iNXE. It is almost perfectly preserved as a
likeness of the fortified life of t!ie Middle Ages.

There's ii town there, too. of aboin :j5,ri00 population, hut itV
the massive old fortress on the hilt thai takes your eye. Sometime
in the 5lh century the Vi.-^igotlis took over the old Roman settle-
ment called Carcase and fortified its strategie height which com-
mands a half dozen passes in the Pyrenee,';. They erected tiie Cite
on the ruins of ramparts the Komaus themselves had thrown u|i.
Inside, it was possible lu gai'risun 4.1)00 men within tlie duuhle set
of encircling walls. When the fortifieations were completed over
!i period of several hundred years, every enemy who took a look
at the Cite decided it must be impregnable, so i( went for several
hundred more years without even being besieged.

In our time nut more tliat 1.000 people are living in the Cit^,
and theii's is a life of poverty. You can expect to see peasants

805438"— 44-

19

milking goats or wiisliiiig clolheK before the doors of hovels set in
the rock battlements of old medieval towers. The streets of tiie
old town are narrow and desolate, a contrast to those of the Ville
Basse or Lower Town which grew up later and has handsome
modern bnildings in its 13th century hines and streets.

The Aude River tlows between tliese two very different towns
ihat make up Carcafisonne. The Ville Basse s(retches along the
low-lyiiig left hank. On the opposite bank rises the solitary hill
brisliing with the towers of the Cite. As restored by Viollet-le-
Dtie. the Cite is regarded as one of the architectural marvels of
France, and it is a sm-e stopping place for archaeologists, artists,
and tourists.

The real begitming of the Lower Town was a popular uprising
against French rule in l:i40. All the town ai'ound the Cite was
burned to the ground and buihling was forbidden tin that side of
the river again. Seven years later settlers were allowed to make
a connnunity on the low ground on the left bank.

Nowadays, Carcassonne still has a reputation for an old clotli
industry which is ulnio^t extinct. The eity is an important wine
jnarkct and the vineyards, almost solid for GO miles to the citv of
Beziers, are the chief source of prosperity. The Canal dd JIiui

20

I

passes Carcassonne anil gives transportation to its wine produce,
tanning and leather dressing, manufactured farm tools, corlis, bar-
rels, and preserved fruits. The Canal dti Midi connects at Tou-
louse with the Lateral Canal of the Garonne, giving walerwny
access from Bordeaux to the Mediten'aneaii.

That faminis Freiicli delicacy, pdti' '}'• foi-i (/ra--'. tastily prepared
goose liver, is plentiful in these parts, as are game pies of other
waler-fowi. Ducks and geese like this section of the Aude.

The main business street of Carcassonne is the Rue de Georres
Clemenceau winch runs from the railroad stalion. past the
church of Notke-Dame-des-Carmes to the Pi^ace Carxiit. the
heart of the city's life.

Near the inlersection of the Rue de Ciemenceau with the Rue
du Quatre-Septembre is the 15th century church of St. Vixcent
with au octaguuai tower where you can climb 248 steps and have
a first class view of the Clle and the Aude Valley, There is a
museum on the Bottlevaiu) dd Muske. Its long suit is painlings.

You shotdd plan to visit the Cite'early in tlie morning, when the
stained glass windows catch (he best light. It is possible that the
hotel once opei'aled there is again nvailidile for meais uv an ovci-
night stop. There has never been any restriction on cameras at

21

tbe Cite, so you'll Imve a chance to shnot esnmples of the develop-
ment of niilittiry fortification from tlie 5tli to the 14tli ceiUury.

The tloiiblc belt i>f walls is ilcfendecl by 52 round and square
lowers. The iiirgest opening in almost a mile of outer wall is ihe
NAiiBoxyE Gate. Once lines of kniiihts in armor and processions
of royalty mai'ched fi'oni the Ville Basse across the eight arches of
the ISth cenlury bridge and throti-rli the Narbonne Gate, The
PoRi-E d'Atjde. iipi-iiing westward on the side of the river, is avail-
able if you're walking only. The Narbonne Gate admits vehicles.

The inner wall, 1,200 yards long, and the outer wall, l,(i40 yards,
ftre separated by a zone ii.4Ually about S yards wide. I'his space be-
tween was called /Ar* and was used by the knigiita for outdoor
sports and Jousting matches.

In the south part of the Cite is the former cathedral of
St-NazAire, rebuilt from an older structure from the 11th to 14th
centuries, (hen restored again after 1X40. Before you leave, you
should also make an inspection inside the castle wi'lhin the walls.
It was built abont 1125. Take a good look at it and consider the
fact that it was used as a barracks by the French Ai-niy until 1!)20.

I

22

24

LIMOGES

LiMCKJES received its iiiiine t'l'oiii ii Gnllic tribe who uyed to live one
mile duwu the Vieiine. When ihe Kimians came, they built a town
iistride tlie river wliere t!ie Pont St-Martiai. Htaiids today.

When CierniiiM barbarians hit Limoges, they found the inhahi-
taiits aJI walled ii]) in a fori which stood where Ihe ealiiudral
St. EriKNNE is now hx-ated.

Saint Martial bronghl Christianity to this phice. His name is
venerated by the devout eiti/.ens. Tlie most pi-ominent dnirch in
Limoges, ST-XficnEL-DE-LKONs, is eonseci-ated to him. Half the
chilib'en of Limopes are named "'Martial'' aftei' him. The saint's
iiead and otlier relies ui'e kept in the church. An abbey stood on
Ihe same spot in tlie lOtb century, bnt the present chnrcli dates
from tlie l.'dh century.

There are many other Catholic churclies in Limofres; all of them
with their distinctive Romiinesc|ne. Gothic and Renaissance arch-
itectural features. Any "padre" can point these out lo you. If
you don'l liave this informalion alrcaily, (lotliU- design means
high, pointed arches, steep roofs, flying buttresses, windows large in

as

!

|)roportioii to the wiill s|>;u'(', ainl liivish use of laceliko. oriitinifritiil
cacviiijl. Ri>ni<'iie«i/ii6 ifl iiKler (Wfoi'e llie !2(li (■ciitury). In this
hlyle, lurliPs ;iro riiund, iiirilead uf poinlod. Eoniiiiiesqui? clnii'tjlies
iire more cmiipactly and mure plainly bnilt tliaii Cothic. Renais-
sance is a Inter fashion Hiaii either Gothic or Romanesr[ne, but is
more like tho latter, since it was ehai'acteristic of the Renaissance
to gel bai^k to the simple, cunipai'atively unadornetl style of the
(ireeks jtnd Romans, Better visit the Jesuit fathers at the Lycee
Gat-Lttssac, near the Place .Tourdan in Linjojres : periiai)^ they can
point out to yon these designs in one of the many clmrches round
ahoiil. All over France, youll see churches. You might as well
start to leani their fine pi)iiils while you ace in LioKjges.

Wliih) yi>n are hitting in a side-walk cafe in the Place JouiiOAN.
or its neighboi', the Place ue lv KKPDiiLimjE. -iipping a liglit wine,
you may get the idea that you would like to remain there forever.
This would not he uii uiuuitufal thought, for Limrjgea if^ likealile.
Only 90,000 people; equally distant from Paris, Bimlcaus and
Marseilles; in a climate cool and fre.'^h; among people with a good
French accent and a quaint p'lti'iK all their own — here is a nice
out-of-the-way place with a fair-somithiig name.

36

But if you'll get off yonr chair and meander through the narrow,
winding streets-, yonr eye, if it is already curious, and your French,
if it is courageous, will afford you more adventui-es.

Home of That Porcelain

Porcelain pottery, for example, is the whole show in tliis town —
and always has been. There i^ a factory out beyond Gare des
Hkxicdiltins; before the war it was guarded like a munitions
plant, so valuable are the trade secrets in the arts of porcelain
manufacture and its associated art, enameling. If you don't have
any luck there, yon can try a hundred other places.

Limoges has produced its own special enamel. Arti.^tic designs
in white paint on a bhie-painted background (sounds simple
enough, but it's tricvky) is the general meaning of "Limoges
enamel."

The most famous enamelers {emaiUeura) of Limoges lived as
long ago as the 15th century. Leonard Limousin and his descend-
ants were famous craftsmen; another family, tlie Penicauds, also
won renown for themselves and for Limoges at this work. You
can see samiiles in the Musee -Vdrien Dcbbouche.

BOrnaa' — 14-

27

While you have the name Liuiousin in inind, you migUt like to
knew what it means in relation to our word tnv a swank car. It
seems there is a connection, but it's waywnvcl, like all words in
any language.

In olden times, the region aroinid Limoges v/as known as
Liiiuiiwin. The word meant, originally, a long shepherd's clonk.
Eventually, its meaning was extended to describe a closed auto-
mobile.

Another fine art whicli Frenchmen call orfevreri-e — ^tooling with
gold, so to speiik, is an old lipecialty in Limoges. There's a story
about the family MashaiTcaux, expert, jewelers : they had to report
at the T'uMenes in Paris at the request of Henry IV. Those were
the days when royalty scouted the landscape for artists and crafts-
men. Rural towns like Limoges were usually the lowers. The
best porcelain vases, tJie best enumel work, and the best gold en-
gravings — all were whisked away to Paris.

A final word, perliaps disappointing, is that Limoges is not a
wine country. The ground nnderneath is granit.e, and this type
of soil provides china-clay for poi-celain, rather tlmu good soil
for grapes.

2a

But the people of Limoges are prospei-ous enough to import
wine from nearby regions like Bordeaux, if necessary. As a
matter of fact, there used to be 35 distillei'ies of fine liqueurs in
Limoges.

And before you leave, be sure to visit the Rue de la Boucheeie
where every butcher is named Malinvaud, This is the stningest
alley in Limoges. It is jammed with butcbei- sliops which have
been thei'e since the 10th century.

29

ClermoiTl-rerrand Boanne Mrmlms VMfefranctij Macan Oi|afi

"is^^ _LjF'^^ Ilyon

Bourgoin , Chamberj. Grenoble Cremieu

30

LYON

Lyon, with n population of over a half million, is the second city
uf iiK.lu.'strial iiii]jori ancc in Fiaiiue. It way riiiiiided by ihe Gauls
as Lugdujiwm and was an important place even when Caesar took
it over and wrote hi? travel hook. In fact, a couple of the natives
of the town were the Emperors Marcus Aui'elius and Claudius.
Nero. Trajan, and Hadriau liked the city as a vacation f^pot.
Lyon was sat'ked by the Huns and the Visjfroths who destroyed
mueh of the Roman construction. In the 8tii centin^ it was cap-
tured by the Saracens, but Charlemagne took over later and the
city spent a fairly quiet .Middle Ages. The introduction of the
silk industry from Italy, under Francis I, increased the wealth
and industrial prestige. The Jncquard loom, which increa.sed pro-
duction, was invented by a native, Joseph Jacquard. The great
Louis Posteiu' entered the picture during the last century when
the silkworms upon which the entire indnsti-y depends began to be
ravaged by some strange disease. Pasteur wa.s called in and. ai-
thoufrh he had never seen a silkworm before, within throe months
had found a way to prevent I he disease.

31

Asiile from being the Ifuding aitk iiuiiiLifiictiirL' center in the
world, Lyon is the heudqiiartei-ji for one of the lai-fiest banking
chains in France. Lyon manufactures hats, boots, jewelry, and
liqueurs. In addition, there are dyeworks, foundries, glass-works,
potteries, tanneries, breweries, chemieal plants, and printing es-
tablishments. Lying at the junction of the Rhone and the Saone
rivers, both navigable, and on the highways and railways which
connect Paris, Marseilles and Bordeaux with Switzerland and
Italy, it handles or maiiufactuies tuaiiy of the products going
betwe-eii these points,

The central section, lying on the point of land between the
rivers, contains the business district. On the east bank of the
Rhone is the modeni industrial suburb of La Guillotiiilre. The
ancient mediaeval town I'ises from tlie west bank of the Saone on
the -Steep slopes of Fourvikre hill.

The older section is made up of narrow, crooked streets which
wind up the hill between crowded buildings. On this slope
is tiie Cathedr^u, of St. John, a Gothic edifice of the 12th century.
Farther up the hill is the Chttrch of Nothe Dame. This is a mod-
ern building, bill it is built on the site of the Formn Vetus which
was erected by Trajan. Beside it is a tower whieli is 680 feet above

32

the Saone, and from which you may be able to see Mont Blanc,
100 miles away, if the weather is right. On the other side of
Fourviere is the church of St. Irenaeus. It, too, is a modern
structure, but it is bnilt over a crypt repnied to have beeu the scene
of the massacre of 19,000 Christians in 202 A. D., by order of Sep-
timius Severus.

Lower down on the opposite bank of the Saone is the 6th century
church of the Abiiet or Ainat. Beneath the sacristy, and extend-
ing beneath the bod of the river, are the lightless and airless dun-
geons in which early martyi-s used to wait their fate.

The Htmx be Viixe is cout^idered one of the finest buildings of
its kind in all France. It faces (he Plage ov. Terri:atjx. Its two
central courts are divided by an arcade. The main facade fea-
tures an equestrian statue of Henry IV. In the vestibule you
will find a pair of scnl]itured gi'oups l^y the Costoii brothers. One
group represents the Rhone and the other represents the Saone.

Industrial ond Art Exhibits Are Famous

The JIcsee Historiqdb des Tisscs is really something. Every
type and kind of fabric or woven material from the tir.st known
stuff is displayed there, together with the method, whether by

33

hand or by machine, of wtiiviiig used in fabrication. Tlie exhibit
starts with ancient Egyptian clotli and cnmes on down through
tlie centuries to show the earliest wilks and the later methods of
weaving figures into the fabric. Tapestries are displayed, too.
So are various iiinds of carpets. In short, neai"Iy anything that
can be woven is shown to you there. The Mvsee occupies the sec-
ond floor of the Pal.ai8 du Commekce et de Bourse in the Rhe de
La Kkfuuuque, The Pahiis is an imposing building on whose
steps President Carnot was assassinated in 1894. during the Lyon
exhibition.

Opposite tlie Hotel de Ville is the Palais des Arts, a hirge build-
ying wjiicb was built in the 17th and 18t.h centuries as the Bene-
' dictine convent of St, Pierre. This miLseuni contains, or contained,
a I'eally hue (.■ohection of paintings and statues, and interesting
ancient relies. In this last category yon will find antique coins and
medals, and the C'la-udian. Tabhs which record the concession made
by the Emperor Claudius in 48 A. D., adinitling Roman citizens
of Gaul to senatorial rights. Also in the antique collection are
metal and glass work, enamels, pottery, and goldsmiths' work.

Among the paintings you will find examjiles of the work of two
local ai'tists who established large reputations for themselves,

34

Ernest Meissonier (181o-!)l) and Pierre Pnvis de Cliavnnnes
(1824-98). There ai-e also pictures by such masters as Prud'hon,
Delati-ois. Courbet, Millet, Greuze, Pahna Vecchio. Rubens, Peni-
gino. Tintoretto. Andrea del Sarlo. iin<l many niliers.

The spacious Place BriiJxxjTm is a public square 310 metres long
and 200 metres wide. It is supposed to he one of the finest squares
in Europe. Planted with chestnut trees, part of it is laid out in
gardens surronnding fountains. An equestrian statue of Louis
XIV occupies the center. Tlie statue is the masterpiece of
Frederic Lemot, a native of Lyons, and was erected in 1S25. The
buildings at the west and east ends wei'e built by order of Napoleon
to replace those destroyed during the Revolution.

The town library is one of the largest ainl most interesting in
Pi-ance. It conJains nearly half a million volumes which cover 14
kilometres of shelves. Wiich is a lot of books. However, there
are many ancient mamisevipts fi-om the Middle Ages. These rnan-
nscripts are colorfully illuminated. The library also contains
some of the most precious editions of the works of the Lyonese
printers whose names liave been famous in the histoid of typog-
i-aphy since 1743.

mM4a8' — 14-

35

The Pabc de la Tetb D"Or is situated on the Blione river. The

pi-incipiil entriitiL-e is through a fine wroughl iron gate. This bea.u-
tifiil park contains zoohigical and botanical gardens as well as
pleasant walks among the trees. At the norlheast end of the lake
there is a chalet where refreshments may be obtained.

The Grand Theatre was built in the 1820's on the Place de la
CoMEDiE. It has recently Ijeen completely redecorated and u re-
volving stage, designed by Girane, has been built in. lliis theatre
is used mostly for operatic productions. Moi'ie theatres may be
foimd alt over town.

If billiards interest you, the Saub Rameatt features one of the
finest billiard rooms in France. And there used to be a season
of pretty good horse racing at the Ghand Chamts. But if you
prefer golf, try the Lyon Golf Club at Montlodis.

36

LaPomrTie. Bnqnoles.fliee

Aubagne, Toulon

38

MARSEILLE

You probably Tiever lieiird of the "Battle Song of tho Rhine Army/'
but if anytnie liums La Marskillaise, y'ni'll spark beciiuse it's one
uf the best known pieces of music in the worlil.

You won't have to be aromid Marseille loii^ to understand bow
its name got tied onto the French national anthem and stuck, even
though the song was written in the city of Strasbourg. 400 miles
away, Rougot de Lisle, a French captain of engineers, scratched
it off overnight in April 1792 and he called it the Battle Song of
the Rhine Army.

But the MarKeillais— the hot-lieaded. liberty-loving people of
Marseille — started singing de Lisle's words and music, and when
troops from the city headed for Paris during the French Revolu-
tion they shouted the song with such enthusiasm and intensity that
it has been known ever after as La Marseillaise.

That episode is an example of Ihe enrnestnesB which has made
Marseille not only one of the world's most persistent battlers for
individual freedom but the greatest commercial port on the Med-
iterranean and the second city of France.

39

Don't l]e rubbed the wrong way if the Miirseillais seem to be
niort. hot-headed and tmichy than other Frenchmen. Tliey are a
fiery lot, proud of their city, and they've been scrapping for it
sine* 600 B. C.

Before this war Mai-seiUe had a population of ahuost a milliou
and a tradition of seagoing commeroe dating back to when the city
was a Greek out|iost and the rival of Carlhjtge on the trade routes
of the Mediterranean. Even the name, Marseille, comes from
Ciie old Greek MuxsaUa, Wars knocked the city around for sev-
eral hundred yeai-n and it was conquered once by Julius Caesar
in 49 B. C. After the Roman Empire went on the skids all the
nearby powers tried to grab otl' Marseille — the Goths, Burgun-
ditms, and Franks. In 735 the .Saracens stormed in and destroyed
all the ancient monuments which were still left, and about 200
yeai-3 later it fell under domination of the Counts of that part of
France known as Provence. The city was annexed to France
proper in 1481 but still battled on for its ancient liberties, right
on through the French Revolution and to this day. The plague
swept Marseille sei-eral times. The worst, year was l72t>-21 when
40,000 victims were carted olf to conunon burying grounds. Dur-
ing W(U'ld War 1 part of the harbor was set aside for a British

40

base and Indian. Australian, and African troops passed through.
After the armistice an American embarkation port was set up
in Mai-seille.

A city with a history like that is bound to have strong convic-
tions on both politics and economics. Marseille's Chainhrc de
G&mmei'ce. for instance, was organized in 1650, and the city cele-
brated its 2500th birthday clear back in 189i). A lot of important
things you'll see around Marseille are there because of the C'htmbre
de Commerce: the Stock Exchange, 15 miles of docks, the 4^-mile
KovE Tunnel, and the huge Marionane air base.

Mai^seille began to make its mark in modern commerce after
the expansion of France into colonies in North Afi'ica and the
opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. From a 70-ncre inlet the
port of Marseille ha« been constructed into a 500-acre deep-water
anchorage where sliips of all nations of the woi'ld called before
the war. A 3i^-mile jetty protects the harbor, containing 10
separate basinsyif you're out for exercise and the MP's are agree-
able, the jetty makes a spectacular iiike. It rises sonietimes 95 feet
above the sea.

The Rove is the biggest maritime tunnel in the world. Marseille
is 25 miles from the Rhone, the most important French river

41

flowing into the Mediiernintini; hiit this tiimiel iimkes it pussible
for boat* to tnivel all tlie way from Mai-seille over inliiiKl water-
wtiys to Calais, on the Eiifrllsli Channel, a distance of 875 miles.
Take u ghmce al the map and you'li see how many limes shorter
that is than going iiroimd Spain and up the Atlanlic Coast. This
Rove Tunnel wna blasted thrnnfrh the I'ock nioimtain of L'Estaque
to make connec-iions with a ismall iidand sea called the Bn-re. Tlie
tminel is 47 feet high anil 72 fi'et wide and the water nioning
through it is 13 feet deep and 49 feet wide. That will handle a
pretty good sized craft. It took from 1911 to 1027 to build the
tunnel.

From the Berre a 50^4 -mile canal connects wilh the Rhone River
at the city of Ai-les. Before we moved in on Marseille many
reports leaked oiil that the French undergmund had tried to
sabotage the Rove Tunnel and the Rhone Canal to keep the Ger-
mans from iising ihem.

It was between the two world wai-s that Marseille became the
biggest and busie.st port in the Mediterranean. In an average
(lay. ."iO passenger liners and cargo ships from al! parts of the
world would put in at Marseille. On the streeLs you would inn into
people of every race, color and nationality. The harbor doesn't

*2

look the same now. Tlie Nazis dismantled and shipped away a lot
of equi])nient, and built submarine pens. MurseiUe ».sed ti> be
one of the Gennans' rende-zvous points for convoys to the Italian
front.

The most colorful part of Marseille was always the old section
of town which rises np above the harbor. For hundreds of yeai-s
these narrow, twisting streets and dingy buildings were the hide-
away for criminals, and police were, almost never able to rout them
out. Tourists who wandei-ed around there, however, never realized
that for every outlaw the Old Town housed .'K) honest fishermen.
NoDctheless. the advice always has been not to go sashaying around
in that neighborhood by yourself at night.

In January 1943 German troops surrounded the section and
yelled for everyone living there to show himself. They rounded
up 40,000 people and marched about half of them GO mil&s away
to a mmcentratioii camp. They ransacked all the houses, pillaged
all usable fixtures and melal.tiien laid a siring of dynamite charges.
On February 1 they cracked it. H(imes, shops, churches, and
ancient landmarks were blasted into rubble.

Berlin explained it this way: "We had to clear tlie city of an
ugly stain and build a clean district wliere once hung a false halo

43

of jipache niiiumtii'iHin," Whatever else the liyiiinniting sicoiiin-
plislied. it gave the Genniins space for harbor det'eiisies ami knocked
out a lot of good hiding places for the underground.

After centuries of destvtiction by invaders, witii the handiwork
of the Nazis as a climax, it is no wonder that Marseille, one of
the oldest cilies of Western Europe, has few dassicaj or medieval
remains of any importance. The funiout: Marseillais poet Mery
almost bit it on the head when be said, "'There are only two monu-
ments here, but they are magnificent : the sea and tbe sky,"

The oldest structure in the ciiy is the blackened sloiie .A.BBEr of
St, Victor, just oil the Eoule\-ard de la CohderU':;. Fortified
towers of tbe old church remain, dating back to the 13th cenliiry.

One of the largest cburcbe.s built during the 1800's is the Roman-
ByziintJne Cathedral of Sainte-Marie-jMajedre. Everybody calls
it La Major iuv short. The cathedral is on a terrace northwest of
Old Town. It was built between 1S.52 and 1893. The main sec-
tion is \~i\) feet long with several domes, one of them 200 feet high.
Inside you might still find a plaque commemorating the British
killedin World Warl.

'I'Jie jiiain intersection of town is at the Coubs St. Louis, where
the Canebiere crosses the Cmirs Bel>iimce-Rue de Bams. The

44

^

Canebiere is the pride of the Mai-seillais. It is to their city what
Fifth Avenue is to New Yoi'k and the Champs filysees is to
Paris. They are so proud of their "main drag" that they'll tell
you, "If Paris h.id a Canebiere. then it would he a little Marseille."
The name of the boulevard comes from an old Greek word mean-
ing '"lienip." It seems this fine-loolting thoroughfare used to be
nothing more than a footpath thi'oiigh a hemp field,
f If the Germans haven't destroyed or dismantled it for scrap iron,V
, 'you'tt-wantto climb up into the towers of the Pont Tran.sbordedb.
' This is a bridge spanning the Old Harbor, built in 1S105. The
towei-K on either end are 282 feet high, aiul you used to be able
to climb up a stairway to n height of 24.3)fee-t to take a look for
one franc. The north tower had an elevator which would cost
you 114 francs to ride up and a half-frane to ride down. There
was a small eating place in the north tower also.
' Tliis Transbordeur Bridge is not like any other bridge you ever
saw. If it's still in operation you'll see passengers and vehicles
borue across the harbor entrance only a few feet above the water
on a platform suspended by long cables fi'om a powei'-cnrrier roll-
ing on a track moi-e than SCHJ feet above you. It is 870 feet from
shore to shore.

45

Aiiotlier good view of the liarbor is from flie Promenade Pieiuie-
PuGET Gardens. Friim lliere you Jook uorthwfst across the Old
Hiii'bor toward the long bre^ It water. If yoii want a still higliei-
view, yoii can take a cable cav near the Bonlevard Notre-Dame
up to within 275 yards of the most conspicuous- laiidmai'k in Mar-
seille, the church of NfiTBE-DAME de la Garde. Iliis church and
an old fort crown a 5:^5-foot limestone rock above the most aristo-
cratic quarter of the city. Once upon a time, it Wiis the site of a
medieval chapel and castle. The present church was built after
1864. It has a belfry 1.^0 feet higli which can be seen from niileK
out at sea. The path leading fi-om the end of the cable railway
to the. church has two iong staircases. ■ Don't bother to count the
steps: there are 140 to the terrace and 174 more from there to tlie
church. They say it is really lUngeiwis to try to make it up there
if there is any kind of wind blowing.

The newest part of town lies nn the southeastern slope of thi?
same ridge. There it is protected from the m/xtra!. Tins is a diy
cold blast which sweeps down the Rhone Valley, The M;ii'seilliiis
have it figured that the vuxfral comes most often iu the winter and
spring and it will blow either three, six. or nine days without
stopping. Sometimes it is impossible to stand up against its force.

46

If you're interested in old coins, you'll want to wander into the
Pdulic LiflHAax on the Coun Jvlien not far from the Boulevard
<taHb<d.di. Befoi-e the Gernuins came, one of the world's best col-
lections of ancient coins was hei'e, and it nmy be uiit uncbcd. There
is a good represenlalioii of modern sculptui'e and old and modern
paintings on the catalogues of the Muske dbs Heatjx-Arts in Ihe
Plai'e Benuix. Right next door is the Musedm of Natural His-
TORr where you can nose arounil among fossils and stuffi'd animals.
., Modern Marseille spreads far on either side of the Cdiirhirre and
back from the ancient harbor. South of the Caiiebiere, centering
on the litu- de Bmim. St. FetTeol, Pa:i-<uJ.h and adjoining streets, is
the chief shopping district. At one time Marseille had traffic taws
for this sectioii which said yon had to park on the odd-numbered
side of the street, on odd days of the month and ou the even-niun-
bered side on even days.

Besides the CANEBiiinB, t\K two most famous streets are the
Coxms St. Lotns (its name changes every couple of blocks; at the
intei-section it is ('oum BelsiiM:e on one side of the Oanchih-e and
Ruti d<' Rom^e on the other) and the scenic Cornicme Road.

The Corniche Road follows the shore south from the Old Harbor.
It is lined with fine hotels and homes. Off the Corniche coast, in

47

the bay of MarKciile, lie two small blauds. Ratonnead awiJ Pom-
EGUES, joined by a 300-ynri] breiikwiiter to form what is L-nkd the
Port dv Kmodi.. A third FTiniil islund nearby is tho bij-ttxic Isle
d'Xp. There, in a 16th century chuleau, dungerous crimina ]•, polit-
iL-iil prisoners, and spies have been held through hundreds *i yeai-s,
and it ivas in a diiugeon of the Chateau d'If tln\t the Ount of
Montf Ci'isto. Diuna.s" fictional hero, speni his youth in iKnprison-
ment. Visitors to the chateau have been known to ifiiMre the
dungeons where real life prisoners rotted, asking all the Thile to
see the cell of Edmund Danti^s, the story-book count.

Before the war Marseille was noted for several rare food qaeoial-
ties. but under German occupation it was believed to he the worst-
fed city in France. This was largely because sea foods havealways
been the main item in Marseille's diet, and the Nazis would lot per-
mit the city's fislicruien to take their boats beyond th( easily
guarded port,

1 Soon all those famous fish dishes which the goni'mets used to
enjoy in the cafes of ihe Canebiere and Coriiiche Koad shnukt be
returning. The most renowned of all Marseille delicacies is called
ho'i'iJJiihrii.tw. I f your chef can ^erve it. you'll see hii¥i throw
together 10 to 15 kinds of 6sh and crustaceans, then add tcniatoes,

4B

onions, garlic, leeks, celery, oil, laurel, fennel, thyme, salt, pepper
and saffron.

Some other favorite orders in the fanciest reslaurauts along the
Canebiere are brimdadc, a cod-fish stew: soup de poMsoTM, a soup
made of fish that has been ]niuudeil and pushed through a strainer;
and aioU, a. mayonnaise with garlic. The best things to di'ink with
mixtures like iliis are rfmi/t and j'icptiul.

Shoi'tly, the waterfront huwkei's ought to be back at their old
stands, just as at Fisherman's Wharf in Sun Francisco. They'll be
behind their big signs reading Friiih </•■ Mer — Fruit of the Sea —
wiLli all kinds uf shellfish, shrimps, and crabs which you can buy
and eat like popcorn.

Alter having Ix'en in Marseille for quite a spell, if yon find yon
still can't make head or tail of what the citizens are saying to you,
don't take it too hard. It's a special French dialect.

The Marseillais are as indivitlualistic as ihcir language, and no-
body has been able to Imock them loose from the belief that they are
free men and their own masters. When a bullfight is held in Mar-
seille — against the law — spectators once coughed \\\> enough money
in excess of tlie price of adndssiou so that the promoters of the
event were able to pay tiie fine.

49

MONTE CARLO

so

MONTE CARLO

Them is very little diaiice that yon will see Hie real Monto Carlo
during your stay in Soiitheni France, You will probably never
get the chance to enter (he Casino. It probably won't be open.

Nevertheless, there is much more to Monte Carlo than just the
great gambling house. The PitiNciPAi.iTY of Moxaco, which com-
prises three towns — IMonte Cabi^o. La Condasiike. and Monaco —
Epreads over a hilly winlge of land eiglit miles .siiuari^. It is shel-
tered from niirthern winds by a high wall of mountains, and bus
a two-mile frontage on the blue Ligtjrian Sea, The climate there
is said to be tlie ijest in the entire Mediterranean area — :i benign
blend of bright sun and balmy air that sill's the good -to-be-alive
feeling.

Monaco has a fascinating history. From 068 to 1705 it was an in-
dependent principality. Then when the French revobition dis-
possessed the reigning Prince, it was added to France. The prin-
ci|>ality was plaeeil umler the protection of the Kingdom of Sar-
dinia in ISlo by the Treaty of Vienna.

51

In 1911 II coustitutiomil govern nieiit was estabJished providing
for a National Coiinci] plected by a iiniversnl male vote. It W!Ik
deemed that the Prince sfhoidd divide iinthority with a council of
State and the National Conncil. The laws of Monaco were based
on the French code, but Monacu had its own flag and issued its
own postage stamps.

At one lime you cniikl have enjoyed charming bathing beaches,
a nioniitainous golf course and tennis courts. You may still pel;
to enjoy these. There used to be plays and ballets nightly and,
although much of the theater life has disappeared, you may still
be able (o take in a matinee at one of the places still open. You
may al?o be intere-sted in the marine nnisfuju, aquarium and labo-
ratory established Vjy Ihe principality-.s famed oceanographer.
Prince Albert.

As you enter Monte Carlo, your eye will range over the white
terraces sliimmering in the sun, the palatial hotels dotting the
slopes of Mount Beausolejl. the railway elimbing the hill to La
Tttrbie, and the snowy summits of the Maritime Alps, Rainbow
chasing becomes a fine art in this phish and gold selling.

Of the three towns in the small country ui Monaco, Monte Carlo
was always gayest of them all. From the sea it made a memorable

52

Ijicture of gaily tinted buildings set in green gardens. Gleaming
yachts rode laz'ily at auchor in the PoRTopHi:RfctLES. Big tourist
steamei-s used to wait outside the harbor for the passengers who
marvelled at the sights ashore.

Monte Carlo was always beautiful, clean aud quiet. You will
probably find i( that way even now. Once, its streets were silent
by nine o'clock. After the crowds entered the portals of the com-
bination theater and casino, the town was still until the tinrry of
traffic at tlie end of the perfoi'inance.

The Casino, about which you have heard so much and seen so
often in the movfes. stands on a projecting rock facing the town.
It was built from the plans of Charles Gurnier. famous French
architect, in 187S, and the seaward front was remodelled in 1903
and again in 1910, As you pass through the vestibule you reach
the Atrium- with its large loiuige and landscapes by Jiindt. Then,
walking straight through, is the theater, whei'c you will find ])iiiiit-
ings by Gnstave, Ciairiu, Lix and luany other Eureopean painters.
To the left of the theatei' entrance are tlie gaming ro<tms.

For a beautiful view, go to the terrace on the seaward side of
the Casino. See the concert piivilli«m and the marble busts of the
coinposei'a — Jules Massenet and Hector Berlioz.

53

^ Admksion to the gaming I'ooins Csiaino used to cost 10 francs a

^ day, but you could buy a season admission ticket for 250 francs.

Of conrse, you could probably never convince your CO to give

you permis^sjon to spend an entire sejison at the Ciisino, so you'd

probably want only a one-day ticket — if (he place is open.

There used to be admission fees to other places in the Ciismn,
too. For instance, it costs five francs to enter the Atrium and
rending room ; fron] 10 to 130 fi'ancs to the coiicei't room; and be-
tween 30 to 40 francs for the theater. Then there was a charge
_of one fi'ant for checking your cap.

You will find a Sporting Club (marked -'S. C") west of the
Casino, opposite the post office. It is a new building, facing gar-
dens of remarkable beauty with many palm trees in full view.
The La Festa sports grounds of the Monte Carlo Country Club is
close by and it lias 20 tenuis courts, two squash-racket courts, swim-
ming baths, restaurant and a clubhouse.

At one time chance was king at the Casino. But if you plan to
visit Monte Carlo for games of chance now, you may be disap-
pointed. Nevertheless, it will be interesting to see the place and
gain a first-hand knowledge of the surroundings there. The people
may have many stories to tell you.

54

NICE

For many years past, the whole idea and purjiose of Nice liaa
been the amusement of vacationists, tourists and wealthy playboys.
The whole set-up was made for it : Many hotels, wstaiirants, bars.
cabarets, pigeon-shooting arrangements, and a handsome casino
on the pier. The principal manufactures incliuled perfume,
distilled spirits, silk, soap, confectionery, straw hats, wheel chairs,
pianolas and tobacco. The climate is considered favorable for
chest complaints, gout, asthma, and catarrh. Operas. b:dlefs.
fencing, flying; horse, bicycle, and auto racing; swimming, danc-
ing — all wei-e available.

the famous carnival, held during the 12 days preceding Lent
each year, involved masked balls, battles of flowers, c-oufetti-tbrow-
ing, fireworks, showgirls from Paris, and plenty of noise.

A PAST GLIMPSE

It is doubtful if you will find Nice quite so gay these days, nor
has it always been so. Founded about 2,000 years ago by Grcelts
from Mai-seiUe, it became a busy trading station. By the 14tli

55

Sospei Qunec Tofino

MonlE Carlo

56

century the maritime strength of Nice had reached sufficient pro-
portions to give the Barbary Pirates pause in their general depre-
dations on all Mediterranean shipping. Tlie ICth century was a
rugged hundred yeai's for the citizens of Nice. Pestilence and
famine raged, and the fortified city was attacked and pillaged by
Francis I and Barbaro.ssa,

In 1626 the port was declared open to all nations. Nearly a
hundred years later, the French besieged the citadel and demol-
isiied the ramparts. In 1713, the Treaiy of Utrecht relurned the
city to the Counts of Sav(i_y and New Town was built. From
1T44 to 1748 the Frencli and Spanish were again in pos.session.
From tlien on, it was tossed back and forth several times, at last
remaining with France after a treaty in 18G0.

In 1940 Nice was about as far away as people could get from
the Nazis and still stay in France. Refugees flooded the city,
only to find that Italy liad declared wai', and under the terms of
the Axis armistice, the city found itself in the Italian zone of
occupation. By 1941, Nice had revived sonte of its tost gaiety.
but in 1942, after the Allied occupation of Nortli Africa, the war
was once more Immght cli)Se. The Germans emphasized the mili-
tary status of the city and greatly strcngtJiened its defenses. Like

S7

most Riviera towns, Nice began to run short of staple foods,
because only vegetables and fruits were locally gi-own.

AROUND THE TOWN

Pi'ewar Nice reported a population of nearlv 250.000. sweUed
by many t!.o„..an<h of visuor.s during the winfer tonrist season.

S R^i r"' "i^-^t m'*^7^fi"g P^'H of the city, lies bet^-een
the Rn-zR P_,v„^N, the old 5th century .astle, and the sea. The
narrow streets appear more Italian 1hun French

.JS^r!rlVj'''^Z ""''^T ^r" ^''' 'l'^"-''""^ promenades on the
sea from, the most popular bemg the 150 foot wide Promenade

I'Es Angi^is, and handsome, pahn-lined streets with attractive

va e vdias and more hotels. The Ave^-ue de i... Vio^ire leads

ast the .m]io.mg modern Gotliic CnvitcH of xXoibe Dame through

the busiest part of town to the Casino. '"lougji

SB

TOULON

ToTJiCN will be best remembered from this war as the ptnt where
theFi'encIi scuttled their fleet when the (iermans overran Saul hern
France in November 1942, but the city has a long history as
France's most powerful naval base and as headquarters of the
lleet.

Before the war Toulon, with its population of 150,000, was a
ti'omendous arsenal, shipbuilding center, and repair depi>t. The
value of Toulon harbor for sti'ategic rather than commercial
reasons had been recognized for centuries. It was fortified from
the early 150O's and under Louis XIV the great military engineer
Vauban practically rel)uill the port. He gave most of the credit
to nature for making his job easy.

Tlie coast here is rugged under a protective rim of high hills in-
cluding 2,n00-foot Mont Faijon. Rocky promontories west and
southwesi of the bay and peninsula pushing into the sea foi'm
an outer and a land-locked inner hiirhor seiianiled by a narr()W
passageway. These natural ramparts provide formidable posi-
tions for forts, shore batterie;-, and other instalialions. The iinier

59

t. E. e « B -' ^F-- B '^

3

Eg|;

n *^ !>■ D ^

5 e

ESS

Wlial^qE JS ra -• a Kit-— cS b
Br4E.a I. ■j|r4«j'a>E

'-'(J"Tli»0t-4l

'] '^-n^W 1^

60

basin is failed iIil' I'sthte Hade, iiiid tin- uiiter harbor is the
Gk-Mviie Rahb. B<niiii-i)roof nioles 1370 y;ir(ls long form a breiik-
wa(er between thi- ^iiiitller imrl nml the roatlsleml. Even in peace-
time yon couklii'l carry a camera in the survonntliiig hills.

Tdulon was called Teloiiitm by the ancient Greeks and TeTo
Mai'fh/.t by ihe Romans. Durinp the middle ages it was of no
im])ortance beciinse it was too remote from the established trade
pontes. Its modern growth is due entirely to its naval importance.

The Saracens sacked the city in 889 and it was captured twice
by Charles V before Henry IV ordered fortifications erected at the
end of the 16lh century. The defenses were then strengthened
by Louis XIV and in 1707 a c<jmbined attack by an Austrian and
Sardinian army iind the English and Dutch fleets was successfully
beaten <iff.

During the French Kevolution, Tonlon citizens who were loyal
lo the crown Inrned the port over (o the English fleet under Vis-
connl Hood. For 16 weeks after that Hood battled to hold oil a
siege by the Revolutionary Army and finally had t(3 withdraw his
fleet. This was the battle in which a 23-year-old artillery officer
led the capture of the major forts commanding the roadstead com-

61

pelfing the British retreat. The y.>ini|r (.fficcr «-i..s nnmwtej to
bnsadier-s:eiienil. His luime was \iii).,k-(,ii B.>ii;i])Hrte

After tiie Allit'd Jari.liuffs in North Africa in NcnTiiiher 1942
louJoii jHissed from (l,e Vic-liy achiiiiiistrMfion of "UiK-^icupied
Fnnice to acl,,,.! Nazi control. Since then the harbor has se'-ved
na a Oerinan U-l.o;il neht.

ToiEh.n-s ar^'Hiils normi.Uy gave employment to a larpe per-
centage of the cily's p,.puh.ho„. II was a cmmopolihui gunicriuir
place espeuially poixilar with RuH.sians. Before the war thert
were mnd concerts and an air of gaiety. The Quai dk Cronst-vm
was thr.mged ,n tlie evenings, but lliere were no fashion pa.'ades
and no nirnival festivities as at Nice and Cannes, and few wlio
came to Tonlon were there for pleasure ah.ne

The city ha.I ils Parisian shoj.s, liowover, and sidewallv cafes and
'".tion pielure houses The Coniedie Franeaise often phived in

the stage. Tonlon also had ,ts own Little Theater. kn.,w,i as "The
Lhn.jnoy, and (h.mgh the alm.,si.here was lai^gely in keeping with
naval discipline. ,he fashionable resUu.ranl^, casino, art galleries
and library were full. ^ '

«3

In spite of the changes that the Gennan occupalion and Allied
lionibiiigs have brought about in the city, you'll still enjoy climbing
lip into the Old Tmni with its narrow 18th reiilury streets grouped
about the harbor. The RvE d'Ai.oeij leading to the harbor is the
busiest street in the Old Town. Between the Rue d'Alger and the
CouKs Lafatette is Ste-Mabie-Majeure, the i-eniains of a cathe-
dral built in the lllh and 121]i centuries. The Aksexal MARmMB,
wliichyim'll walk into if you go west on theQuai deCronstadi, will
probably be off limits. In peacetime it was never open to
foreigners.

Besides Ste-Marle-Majeure, other chief buildings to look for in
the cily are the Chtjhch of St-Loths. the Naval and Militaht
HosPiTAi,. the Naval School of Medicine, and the Schchil of
Htdrij(;r.\phy.

The Boulevard de STBASBtimto crosses the entire breadth of Tou-
lon east to west, passing the Casino and the Grand Theatre. A
museum is also on the Boulevard de Stra.sbonrg which contains an
exhibit of ship models and collection of coijis.

In the old days, a daily market stretched for a half mile along the
CouHs Lafayftte. The street was closed to all vehicular traffic
until noon. There housewives came to bargain for fruit and flow-

63

ers, fell iiiHl fowl, menu ;in,I vetrHabk-s. Yoii will still sec sailor^
waiKlenng around m this section siiiUfhiiig off a breakfast ut fresii
fruit topped with sfroug coflee fn.in n nearby bi.sti'o.
_ In 1707 during a siege of Tonlon, a ship's ntnnon tlii'ew a ball
into the wall of No. 87 Coni-.s Lafayette. That caimonball always
di-ew (locks of tourists Wfore the war. If (he Gennaii.s haveu't
pried the bull out and shipped it home for a souvenir, you'll pi-ob-
ahly see flocks of your buddies arouinl No. 87 now.

Froni the Cours Lafayette you c:.u reach tlie old cathedr'al Ste-
Marfe-Majeuke by way of the Hue Emile-Zolx The ancient
stj'ucture was enlarged and strengthened by a heavy fa<;ade In the
KUi century and the tower was added in the 18th centui^y

The principal eating places in T..ulon were along tiie Boulevard
de blrasbourg and the Qua! de Crousladt. During some season,
you could visit the racetrack at LAOotmRAN, two miles east of
the city.

Although the naval installations have squeezed T.nilou's eom-
uiercial facilities into one small part, of the east end of the harbor
the port carries on a fair traffic in normal times. Toulon shins
wme, coal, timber, salt, figs, raisins, almonds, oranges, cloth, cork.
soap and ods. Also, out of tins port the U. S. used to receive

«4

bauxite ore, taken from the hills north of the city. Toulon imports
corn, Avood, coal, hemp and salt ]irovisioi]s. Nest to the naval base
operations, however, the city's biggest industries are sliip build-
ing, fishing and wine growing. Toulon is still noted for purple
dyes attained from murex, which is plentifid in the iieighhoring
seas.

Soon you should be able to take a pleasure boat ride from the
Quai de Crnnstadt to several nearby points of interest. Among the
suburban bathing beaches which can l>e readied by boat is Tawahis.
It was there that George Sand turned onl most of ber well knowm
writings, and it was the home of one of tlie world's foremost
woman composers, Cecile Chaminade. The scene of some of
Joseph Conrad's last works was laid in the vicinity of Toulon.

interesting Spots in the Surrounding Country

About 10 miles west of Toulon are the remains of a preliisloric
settlement called (Joroes d'Ollioules. Above the gorge you come
to the village of Evenos. There on a 1,312-foot volcanic monnd
are an old castle and a modern fort. A spectacular serrated sand-

«5

stone rock to the right of the gorge is known as the Ghes de

Ste-Anne.

_ Not far fi-oni the Gorges d'Ollionles you o.ii niiiko »ii interesting
Mde trip to the H-.tellekie de la Sainte-Baume. The Holcllerie
Itself is situated on Ihe alnmst treeless west .side of a slonv |ilale-iu
TJie other sid.. of the same hill U covered i)V a state forest of oaks'
beeches, maples, limes, yews and hollies. There are many foot-
paths with sign posts iilJ through the forest so you can't get lost
Every now and then in a smiill eleariiijj in the trees, you will come
to a httle irth century wayside chapel. At the east end of the
foi-cHt .TOu climb a limestone ridge to reach the Saixte-Baume or
'Holy Cave." The cave is set into the perpendicnhir walls of a
clilf. It IS called "Holy Cave" because of an old story relating
that the cave was once the dwelling of St. Mary Ma^'dalene The
cave IS ao ancient place of pilgrimage, and vmi probably won't be
alone if you climb the rock staircase to the mouth of the cavern
Inside the cave is a cold spring. Over (he centuries the care has
been converted into a richly decorated chapel.

If yon have a day to spare, there is a steamer or tram 1 rip to Cap
hic'iE winch wdl give yon a .short cour.^e in the geogmphv of this
section ot the Mediterranean coast. You wiU 'climb th'rough a

66

I

sparse woods to a ridge ri:;ing to the summit of Cap Sicie. There
at 1181 feet is the pilgrimage chapel of Notke-D a me-de- Bonne-
Garde, and beyond the chapel is a ruined tower. From this point
Oil a clear day you should be able to see all the way from the Toulon
roadstead along rhe coast to the lies d'Hyeres on the east and the
neighborhood of Marseille on the west.

The city of Hteres, a community of about 20,000, is the oldest
winter resort on the Mediterranean. Before the war, it was al-
ways filled with British visitors from .November to February.
The climate is slightly milder here than at Toulon, but the town
is insufliciently protected against the mistral. If yon ciin arrange
to drop in at Hyi>res in early summer, you'll be able to bite into
some of the finest strawberries iu the world.

67

6S

TOULOUSE

The city of Toulouse is nm of rlie chief centers of trade, litera-
ture iuul iirt in southern Fi'iiiife. If youi' arrivtil in lliia swtion
of tlie country is from BoitDi':-iUX or from wiinewhere in norlliern
Fi'aiice, the iirst thing you will notice is the strange sounding
Roman ilialect of the people here. This is the corner of France
which long ago became known as Lancuewxi.

That word Langiiedoc was ust-d for the first time about liltO. It
comes from ihe fact thai in those days the word for "ye^'' iu this
section was "oc". Langne d'oc meant "tongue or language of oc."
The rest of Fi'ance, therefore, would be "hiuguc d'oil" because
•'oil" was then the general term for '"yes". "Oil" has changed
through the t-entnries fo the modern French word "oni".

The city of Toulouse is on the right bank of the GrAaoNME River
about 160 miles southeast of Bordeaux. The nuiiu section curves
aromid tlie river in the fonn of a crescent. On the left bank is
the low lying subui'b of St, Cyi'iuen. You can reiicb St, Cyprien
by three bridges: St. Tierre to tlie north. Pont Nkuf in the cen-
ter, and St, Mk-hel to the south. East and north of the city rnns

69

!

the Canal do Midi which joins tlie Lateral Canal of the Ghironiie
here,

Tlie Canal dii Midi, originally called the Canal dii Langaedoc,
was bLiilt by a [iri\-;ite citizt-Ti between ItiGtJ and lUal. l*aul Riqnel
iif Beziers paid 17,U(m.0(.ICI fnuics out of his own pocket for the
waterway which connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediter-
raiiean Sea with the aid of the Garonne. The canal begins at the
I'oHT m: i/EjiitoTJi.'iiri{E here ni TouIoLit^e and runw 150 miles to the
Etang de Thau, a small inland sea by the town of Agde on the
Mediterranean.

The canal is 35 feet wide at the bottom and 65 feet at the surface.
It is 61/2 fpct deep. At one point the canal climbs a hill by mean,-
nf locks. You pass tlirough 17 locks to climb 205 feet, then to go
back dowji on the other side, a drop of G^O feet, you pass throiigii
48 more locks.

The double row of trees which lines the canal makes nice scen-
ery, hut that isn't why they were planted there. The trees act as
a protective windlnvak ajraiii-st the seas()nal mistral which might
easily blow all the watei- <)Ut of the canal. These oak. ]>ine. cy-
press, and plane trees nuike the canal one of ihe most beautiful
waterways in France,

70

The early fame of Toulouse was derived from a sacred pool into
which coins and oilier offerings were thrown by pilgrims. Tliere
isnouse wiring foi' your divinji suit because clear back in 1(1(5 B.C.
ii Toulouse city olHrial got Ihe same idea. He drained the pool
and approprial'ed the money, Later when he was defeated in bat-
tle by Gallic tribes, everyone said he got just what he deserved.

Undei- eai'ly centuries of Roman rule, Touhnise was known as
T11/0.SU. At that lime it was a very unimportant place. Six or
seven miles ea.st of Ihe main pari of the city, up on the heights.
people are still finding fragments of an old earthen wall marking
Ihe site of the old Roman settlement. Coina found at the same
s|)ol date back lo the '2il century B. C.

The city's modern history began about TSO when Charlemagne
decided his son ought to be a king and set him np as Ihe ruler of
A(fmtame, with Toniouse as his chief city. From ihe lllh cen-
tury the greate.st loi'ds in southern France were the Connts of
Toulouse. After the middle of the 12th century, the people of
Toniouse began tiding to free themselves from oppression by
feudal overlords. It took twci hundred years, but in 1443 the
parliament of Toulouse was established. It was for Lanqiiedoc
what the parliament of Paris was for northern France.

71

Toulouse wiis t'vuuyeliKcd in llic 3rd t-ciitui-y Ijy St. SaturniTuis,
sometiiuw va\k-a St. Scniiii. In 257 St. Siituruiims refused to sac-
rificc a bull on lliu altiir of Jiipitor. He was mui-lyrpd I>y h^iw
lied to tlif tail of liit> bull atxl drajr^'f*! tlii-ou<zii the streets. "^

It was in Toulouse fliat Adam Smith in 17C4 began to write a
book '-in-order lo pass away tbe tiuif." Tbe book \vas "Arcaltb uf
Naliout..'" a handbook of polilical cronomy that beciiiue a cia.-j-sic.

The old seetion of Toulou.'ie is built almost entirely of red bi'ick.
Pn-war tourists almost always^ placed Toulouse fhii'd only to Paris
and Kouen as one of tiiemost inlcivstinc cities in Franve.
^The social and muuidpal cenier of Touh.nse is tlm Place m
Caithile on (be Rce Laf.wette. The Capitole. oi- Hotel ile Ville
was named after tbe "capiloulN." That was what magi.strates were
c.illoil in the 18th eentury. Mural painting's within the Capilole
are the works of Toulouse artists. Tbe south wing of tlie Capitcile
contains tbe Mnniciiial Theater.

If you walk north from the Place du Capitole on the Rue nrr
Taub. you pass the 14tb century church of NoTnE-DAME-Du-'l'AuH.
ThiN is the spot where St. Saturninns is siipposeil to have been
tied to the bull. The Rue de Taur ends al the Plaok St-Skh5;in,
where the most famous sight in Toulouse is located.

This is the cluircb of St. 3i!tuvninu.s. It is tbe largest and mast
perfect Romanesque building in France, measuring 375 feet by 211)
feet in its largest dimensions. Inside the church is the tomb of
St. Satnrnimis. It rests, naturally, on bronze bulls.

Across the street from the church is tbe Mdske St-K.vtmond.
It is part of on old college of the same name. Besides a good col-
lection of arcliaeological and ethnographical exhibits, there are
rooms containing Chinese, Japanese, and African curiosities and
a collection of 5,000 rare coins.

Toubmse has many rich mansions of the IGfh and 17th cen-
turies. The best of these arc ibo Hotel Bekxuy and the Hotel
d'Assezat. Jean de Bernuys was a Spanish merchant who guar-
anteed a 2.000.000 franc ransom for the return of Francis I after
the battle of Pavia in 1525. He built his mansion between 1509
and 1534. It is now part of tbe Lycee, orpreparatory school, and
contains tbe Toulouse town library.

The Hotel d'Assezat et lie Clemence-Isaube was presented to
Toidonse in 1895 for the use of the learneil societies of the city.
It was designed about 1555 for Pierre d'Assezat, a merchant and
magistrate of Timlouse, It is now the seat of the Academie des
Sciences, Inscriptions et BELLEs-LEmiEs and the Academie db

73

LKiiisLATiiiN, aswL'lI ss tlie Acadkmie »f:s Jkux-Fixhiaux, jiroluililv
tfif okk'&t literury society in Europe. Actordiiiff to tnidiliuii,
Clemence lauure, ii noble dame of Toulouse, lefl ii legacy to the
Acadcniie dos Jcux-Floraux which fiiubled the collejic lo iucivase
the uunibei- of gold and silver flowers il gave away each year as
awards to writers. Histoi'iiuis unw claim thai Cierueiiee Isuui-e
tt'as a purely legendary figure. Eveu so, if you look in tlie arcade
of the court at the Hotel d'Assezat, you will see a statue of Clem-
ence Isaure.

Y<iu will find the Hotpl d'Assezat uear the intersection of Rue
nEL'EniAitPE and the Rite de Metz. The Hotel Bernuy is on the
Rue GAMitE-n'A not far from tiic Pout de la Datibade.

La Daurade. a church rebuilt in the IStli centuiy, is on the site
of a Gallo-Rouian building which was covered witli mosaics on a
background of gold. Our friend. Clemence Isaure, wlio wa.s
never suppo.sed lo have lived in the first i>laee, is buried under the
altar, according to local tradition,

Toulouse is so close to the Pyrenees that the Garonne is still a
rapid stream as it passes the city. In the history of the town,
many bridges have been s\vcpt away. The three bridges which
now span the river, however, have stood for ahnosL 1(K) years. The

74

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last times the bridges of Si. Michel and St. Pierre, one above and
one below Pont Neuf. were washed out was in June 1875. Pont
Neuf is a -stone bridge of seven arches built between 1543 and 1614,
The raging river has never been able to buckle it.

The city's main museum of fine arts is on old Augustinian con-
vent on the HnEi)"ALSACK-LoitRAiN?:. It was built between 130i>-4l,
but was modified in the 16tli and l7th centuries. It has some of tlie
best galleries of painting and sculpture in southern France,

Although Toulouse is heavy on the art side, it is also the prin-
cipal connnercial and industrial center of Languedoc. There you
can see important markets for horses, wine, grain, flowers, leather.
oil and fann produce. Below the St. Michel bridge is one of
France's several national tobacco factories. Before the war this
factory employed between 1,500 ami 2,000 peoj)Ie,

Tliere are numerous theaters in Toulouse, and in May there are
usually running days for the horses at La CEPii=HE. If you are
there iji ibe fail, don't be startled at the sight of little kids play-
ing rugby football in the vacant lots. Rugby, for some reason or
other, has become very popular in Toulouse although it is played
very little anywhere else in France. In season, there are big
matches at the StAde Toulousian,

7S

Ill the line of fund, TdulouBp lius one or two spi-ciiiltiL'w. Pafe^
Triiffcs lire the Jooai variation of the pates dc foie gras that you
must have ealen already no matter where you htive been in Fnin<'e.
Cmsmih't Toultnisian is another favorite ileni on the menu. It is
a full meal of soup made with [lotaloes and lima beans, pods and
all. If you ivanl (o make a Iiit with some little Toulouaieune,
buy her a fi^lful of violets.

Lourdes Is Within Easy Reach

Anyone who is as close as Toiilonse should make an effort to get
over to LouKDES, the most renowned pilfrrim i-esorl in the Catholic
world. It was at Lourdes that Borniidellc .Souhii-ous. a 14-year-
old peasant shepherdess, det-lared ibat the Virf,nu Mary appeared
to her several times in the Grotio de MAssMiiELU; ou the liauk ol'
the Gave. Thai was oti February 11, 1858. For several yeai'f-
Beruadctte was soitfed at by her townspeople and many repre-
seJitatives of Ihe chureh, but fitially her visions wej-e autiieniicaled
and the Pope aulhouized ihe cull of Our Lady of Lourdes. A
saiK-fiiaiy was erected at the Grotto. Pilgrim's flocked in, first
from nearby couununilies, (hen from all paitf^ of France, and now
from all over the world. Everyone has heai-d reports of miracu-

76

Ions cures brought about by ii spring in the Grotto. For years
special trains have run from all parts of France bringing passen-
gers to Lourdes.

The big (jrgauized pilgrimages usually lake plaee between tlie
end of April ami middle of October. Within (he fom' weeks
between the middle of AugU-iit and the middle of SepI ember, about
1:^0,00() visitors had been coming every year until the time of the
war. Tiie average year brought about 600.000 visitors to a city
whose home po])ulatiou is about 10,000.

You are probably acciuainted with details of the story of Lourdes
either from the moving picture "Scug of Bernadette" or Franz
AVerfel's novel from which the picture was made.

Historically, Lourdes was important long before Bernadette's
religious fexjjei-ieuce.«. Although the earliest origins are uncertain,
the city was ali'ea<ly famous as a Hu'tress in the Uth century. In
13tjO the English got Lourdes from the French by treaty, then lost
it back to the French in a war in 1406. From the reign of Louis
XIV to the beginning of the 19th century, the castle of Lourdes
was used as a state prison.

Lomdes is divided into an old and new town by the river. Gave
DU Pau. Two bridges connect the old quarter and the newer

77

section. From both bridges therf iire roiuls leading to (he Gi'otto.
The oh] quarter on tlio fight bank surronnds a scarped rock on
wbicli stands the old fortress and castle, reiira oi' the l^lli century.

From Pont Neuf a broad esplaiuKle leads past the Breton Cal-
vary. This is a crucifix 40 feet high chiseled from Brittany
granite. T!ie Esplanade nt^sPnocEwsioNs ends at IheGrotlo. All
along the roads bawkerH have little stalls where they ■will try to
sell you "objects of piety."

The Grotto itself iw a recess 16 feet deep and 16 feet wide closed
ill with a railing. On a rock high altove is a statue of the Vii'gin
as Bei'uadette dcs*.'riiied her. wearing a white robe with a blue
scjirf. The walls of (he Grotio are black from the smoke of
candles. You will see cr'utclies hanging from the walls. Adjoin-
ing the Grotto is the Miraculous Spring wliose waters lire drimk
and bathed in by the pilgrims. The Spring is now shut in by a
wall with taps.

If you are going to the Grotto with a hirge grou]) of strangers
and (he citizens of Lonrdes have not already warned yoii, then
remember this: look out fin- pickpockets.

Over ill the old town if you ask Jiiound, mo.st anyone can show-
yon where Bernadettii Soubirous used to live.

78

For an excellent view of the entire town ami area of pilgrimage,
you can take a cable car to the Pic de Jer. located about 1% miles
from the Lourdes station. After you get out of the car. you climb
another eight or HI minutes to the (op of the [leak, ;ni.5 feet high.

In other caves around Lourdes. people are still finding pre-
historic remains. The Gbottes des Sp^luglies and the Gkotie dd
LoTTp are now part of a regular side trip. In the Grotte dn Ijoup,
modern times have added a spectaeuhir asjiect to antiquity — the
stalagmites rising out of the floors of the chambers are all lighted
by electricity.

Building materials used for many miles around have been taken
fi-om marble and slate qiuirries of Lourdes for centuries.

Astonishing cures have been reported from Lourdes throiighnut
tlie last lilO vears, but business men have taken a realistic view
of the miracles of the Grotto. Not far from where Beniadette
experienced her visions are a large <ihri, or shelter, several convents,
an asylum for the aged, an orphanage, the great Hospice St-Fhai,
and a new hospital with all modern medical contrivances.

In fact, Lourdes today is as well known throughout France as
a medical center as it is for its miraculous cures.

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VICHY

Lone before Vicny became the grim capital nf occupied France in
194d"tlie old Rimiiiiis were flnckiiifi; ibere to bathe in iind drink the
water from IJU' 40 spring^ whicli give out with hot or cool watei's
with varying alkaline contents. The waters were tlionphl to be
so Ireueficiiil in the treatment of several afflictions and disorders
that as much as 2,500.(100 jralhinw were bottled and exported an-
nuallv. Some of the sallH in the waters were even evaporated out
and inade into tablets. But apparently most of the heahh-givinj:
qualities depended upon ibe fact that the chief constituent of tlie
beneficial waters is bicarbonate of soda.

The town, of some 19.(100 inhabitants, was chiefly a spa, or water-
iiijr place. The balJiinfi cstablishmenl was funiided in 1820, but
if you only want to drink tbc waters you can go to the spring palace.
There is also a Casino, and a theater. Old PARK,by the Casino, is
a pleasant place, too, but if you really want a. fine walk, try the
promenade ahmg the banks of the AUier. Tlii.s promenade follows
the river border of the New Pahk.

«i

It is qiiile possible that the fiLshimiable collaborationists, with
the Pt'taiii-Laval government, have kept Vichy in good repair.
The covered walk in tlie Old Park loads to the Casino behind
which is the little Parc de l"Hi">p[t.\l, whose arcades sheltered
the better shops. At the-norlJi eiid of the paik is the Haix des
Sources where (he waters of four of the chief springs may be drunk.

The Etablissement Thermal has buildings on both sides of the
Rue Luca.s, These buildings house the batlis of various sorts and
temperatures.

Between the New Park and llie Rue du Marechal-Foch is the
old part of Vichy. Here you will find the 15th century Chuiich of
St. Bl.\ise and several inlercsting l.itb and IClh century houses.
To the west of the church is the loth century clock tower.

i^NDREN LIBRARY

SeBthern Methodist UnlvBrtlty
WALLAS. TEXAS

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