BY ROBERT WELLS
P.O. BOX 14, ROSEMEAD, CA 91770
The construction or possession of many of these
devices would be in violation of various Federal,
State, and Local laws. Please contact your local
B.A.T.F. office for any information you may re-
quire, BEFORE attempting the construction of
any of these devices. Severe penalties are pre-
scribed for violators of these laws!
The publisher assumes no responsibility for the
use or misuse of any information contained in
These articles are presented for academic study
TABLE OF CONTENTS
. . . 1
Improvised Blasting Caps .
Pipe Hand Grenade
. . . 26
Shotgun Grenade Launcher
• • • •*?•*/
Improvised Claymore Mine
This manual has been written to provide information on
the safe construction of improvised weapons and munitions
to military and law enforcement personnel, as well assurvival-
ists and weapons enthusiasts.
The devices presented can be easily constructed from
materials available to anyone from drug or hardware stores,
hobby shops, supermarkets, or scrounged from junk piles.
The book contains little which could be considered new
information, because it has drawn heavily on devices and
techniques which have been well proved out, and are practi-
cal, versatile, and not too difficult to do.
Keep in mind that unless a special license is obtained from
the Federal Government all devices presented are illegal to
construct and to own. This information is presented as refer-
ence only or for possible future use, when having the knowl-
edge contained in these pages may well spell the difference
between life and death.
Silencers for small arms can be made from steel gas or
water pipe and fittings.
Aluminum or Plastic container (soda pop can, shampoo bot-
Steel pipe nipple, 6 inch long— See Table 1 for diameter
2 steel pipe couplings— See Table 2 for dimensions
Cotton cloth— See Table 2 for dimensions
Absorbent cotton or copper scouring pads (more effective)
1) Drill hole in container at both ends to fit outside diame-
ter of pipe nipple. (See Table 1.)
2) Drill four (4) rows of holes in pipe nipple. Use Table 1
for diameter and location of holes.
D (Norn. Dia.)
C (Nom. Dia.)
*Extra Heavy Pipe
All dimensions in inches
3) Thread one of the pipe couplings on the drilled nipple.
4) Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon to thread
fully into suppressor system. Barrel should butt against end
of the drilled pipe nipple.
5) Separate the top half of the container from the bottom
6) Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at the base of the
bottom half of container. Pack the absorbent cotton inside
the container and around the pipe nipple.
Drilled Pipe Nipple
7) Pack the absorbent cotton in top half of container leaving
hole in center. Assemble container to the bottom half.
Drilled Pipe Nipple
8) Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple.
10 Anarchist Handbook
NOTE: A longer container and pipe nipple, with same "A "
and "B" dimensions as those given, will further reduce the
sound of the system.
HOW TO USE:
1) Thread the suppressing system on the selected weapon
2) Place the proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of
Table II. Cotton Wadding - Sizes
Weapon Cotton Wad Size
.45 Cal. m x 6 inches
.36 Cal. 1x4 inches
9 mm 1x4 inches
7.62 mm 1x4 inches
.22 Cal. Not needed
3) Load weapon.
4) Weapon is now ready for use.
Anarchist Handbook 11
Improvised Blasting Caps
12 Anarchist Handbook
ELECTRIC DETONATOR (BLASTING CAP)
Mortars, mines and similar weapons often make use of
electric initiators. An electric initiator can be made using a
flashlight or automobile electric light bulb.
Electric light bulb and mating socket
Cardboard or heavy paper
Cap or Tape
1) Break the glass of the electric light bulb. Take care not to
damage the filament. The initiator will NOT work if the fila-
ment is broken. Remove all glass above the base of the bulb.
2) Form a tube 3 to 4 inches long from cardboard or heavy
paper to fit around the base of the bulb. Join the tube with
3) Fit the tube to the bulb base and tape in place. Make sure
that the tube does not cover that portion of the bulb base
that fits into the socket.
4) If no socket is available for connecting the initiator to the
firing circuit, solder the connecting wires to the bulb base.
CAUTION: Do NOT use a hot soldering iron on the com-
pleted igniter since it may igflite the Black Powder.
5) Fill the tube with Black Powder and tape the open end of
the tube closed.
If the glass bulb (electric light) is large enough to hold the
Black Powder, it can be used as the container.
Three Cornered File
1) File a small hole in the top of the bulb.
2) Fill the bulb with Black Powder and tape the hole closed.
20 Anarchist Handbook
NON-ELECTRIC DETONATOR (BLASTING CAP)
Detonators (blasting caps) can be made from a used small
arms cartridge case and field manufactured explosives.
Used cartridge case (.22 caliber or larger)
Fuse, 12 inch long
Round wooden stick (small enough just to fit in the neck of
the cartridge case)
Drill or knife
Long nail with sharpened end
Improvised loading fixture
1) Remove fired primer from a used cartridge case using a
Cartridge Case \
2) If necessary, open out flash hole in the primer pocket
using a drill or knife. Make it large enough to receive fuse.
3) Place one end of fuse in the flash hole and extend it
through the case until it becomes exposed at the open end.
Knot this end and then pull fuse in cartridge case thus pre-
venting fuse from falling out.
4) Load the Black Powder in the cartridge case.
5) Compress the Black Powder into the cartridge case with
the wooden stick and the following improvised loading fix-
Anarchist Handbook 25
CAUTION: The explosive is shock and flame sensitive.
6) Fill the cartridge case with Black Powder until completely
7) If available, commercial reloading equipment could be
used instead of improvised loading fixture.
CAUTION: These detonators have considerably more power
than a military blasting cap and should be handled carefully.
26 Anarchist Handbook
Pipe Hand Grenade
PIPE HAND GRENADE
Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The
filler can be plastic or granular military explosive, improvised
explosive, or propellent from shotgun or small arms ammuni-
Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1V6" to 3" diameter, 3" to 8" long.
Two (2) iron pipe caps.
Explosive or propellent.
Nonelectric blasting cap.
1) Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with
NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check
the time it takes a known length to burn. If 12 inches burns
in 30 seconds, a 6-inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15
2) Screw pipe cap to one end of pipe. Place fuse cord with
blasting cap into the opposite end so that the blasting cap is
near the center of the pipe.
NOTE: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe BEFORE
inserting blasting cap. Push a round stick into the center of
the explosive to make a hole and then insert the blasting cap.
3) Pour explosive or propellant into pipe a little bit at a time.
Tap the base of the pipe frequently to settle filler.
4) Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap
large enough for the fuse cord to pass through.
5) Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the
drilled pipe cap over the fuse and screw handtight onto the
6) Pipe grenade is now ready to use.
Anarchist Handbook 33
Shotgun Grenade Launcher
34 Anarchist Handbook
SHOTGUN GRENADE LAUNCHER
This device can be used to launch a hand grenade to a dis-
tance of 160 yards (150 meters) or more, using a standard 12
Grenade (Improvised pipe hand grenade may be used)
12 gauge shotgun
12 gauge shotgun cartridges
Two washers, (brass, steel, iron, etc.), having outside diameter
of 5/8 inch.
Rubber disk 3/4 inch in diameter and 1/4 inch thick (leather,
neoprene, etc. can be used)
A 30 inch long piece of hard wood (maple, oak, etc.) approx-
imately 5/8 inch in diameter. Be sure that wood will slide
into barrel easily.
Tin can (grenade and its safety lever must fit into can)
Two wooden blocks about 2 inch square and VA inch thick
One wood screw about 2 inch long
12 gauge wads, tissue paper, or cotton
Adhesive tape, string, or wire
Anarchist Handbook 35
1) Punch hole in center of rubber disk large enough for
screw to pass through.
2) Make push-rod as shown.
NOTE: Gun barrel is slightly less than 3/4 inch in diameter.
If rubber disk does not fit in barrel, file or trim it very slight-
ly. It should fit tightly.
3) Drill a hole through the center of one wooden block of
such size that the push-rod will fit tightly. Whittle a depres-
sion around the hole on one side approximately 1/8 inch and
large enough for the grenade to rest in.
4) Place the base of the grenade in the depression in the
wooden block. Securely fasten grenade to block by wrapping
tape (or wire) around entire grenade and block.
NOTE: Be sure that the tape (or wire) does not cover hole in
block or interfere with the operation of the grenade safety
5) Drill hole through the center of the second wooden
block, so that it will just slide over the outside of the gun
6) Drill a hole in the center of the bottom of the tin can the
same size as the hole in the block.
Hole in Can
7) Attach can to block as shown.
8) Slide the can and block onto the barrel until muzzle
passes can open end. Wrap a small piece of tape around the
barrel an inch or two from the end. Tightly wrapped string
may be used instead of tape. Force the can and wooden
block forward against the tape so that they are securely held
in place. Wrap tape around the barrel behind the can.
CAUTION: Be sure that the can is securely fastened to the
gun barrel. If the can should become loose and slip down the
barrel after launcher is assembled, the grenade will explode
after the regular delay time.
9) Remove crimp from a 12 gauge shotgun cartridge with
pen knife. Open cartridge. Pour shot from shell. Remove
wads and plastic liner if present. i
10) Empty the propellant onto a piece of paper. Using a
knife, divide the propellant in half. Replace half of the pro-
pellant into the cartridge case.
11) Replace the 12 gauge cardboard wads into cartridge case.
3 Cardboard Wads
1/2 Original Propellant
Tissue Paper or Cotton
NOTE: If wads are not available, stuff tissue paper or cotton
into the cartridge case. Pack tightly.
HOW TO USE:
METHOD 1 — When ordinary grenade is used:
1) Load cartridge in gun.
2) Push end of push-rod without the rubber disk into hole in
wooden block fastened to grenade.
3) Slowly push rod into barrel until it rests against the car-
tridge case and grenade is in can. If the grenade is not in can,
remove rod and cut to proper size. Push rod back into barrel.
4) With can holding safety lever of grenade in place, care-
fully remove safety pin.
CAUTION: Be sure that the side of the can restrain the gre-
nade safety lever. If the safety lever should be released for
any reason, grenade will explode after regular grenade delay
5) To fire grenade launcher, rest gun in ground at angle de-
termined by range desired. A 45 degree angle should give
about 160 yards.
METHOD 2 — When improvised pipe grenade is used:
An improvised pipe grenade may be launched in a similar
manner. No tin can is needed.
1) Fasten the grenade to the block as shown above with the
fuse hold at the end opposite the block.
Anarchist Handbook 45
2) Push end of push-rod into hole in wooden block fastened
3) Push rod into barrel until it rests against the cartridge
4) Load cartridge in gun.
5) Follow step 5 of method 1.
6) Using a fuse with AT LEAST a 10 second delay, light the
fuse before firing.
7) Fire when the fuse burns to 1/2 its original length.
46 Anarchist Handbook
Improvised Claymore Mine
IMPROVISED CLAYMORE MINE
An improvised Claymore Mine can be easily constructed
using common materials. Fused electrically, it is a command-
detonating device designed for employment from ambush or
defensive positions. It has a range of 150 to 200 meters, and
is effective against personnel and thin-skinned vehicles.
Tin, metal, or cardboard sheet
Black Powder or plastic explosive filler
Cloth or screen
Improvised electric blasting cap
1) Attach shrapnel to convex side of base and cover with
cloth, tape, or screen retainer.
2) Place layer of explosive on concave side of base.
3) Attach legs to concave side of base.
4) Attach electric blasting cap at exact rear center.
5) Attach firing device to firing wires at proper distance
from mine for safety.
TT TT TT
(tin, metal, cardboard)
Black Powder or Plastic
explosive filler 1/4
weight of shrapnel
Retainer (cloth, screen,
wire, tape, etc.)
50 Anarchist Handbook
Anarchist Handbook 51
IMPROVISED PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER
Plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlo-
rate and petroleum jelly (Vaseline). The potassium chlorate
should be ground into a very fine powder and then mixed
with the petroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated
with commercial, military or improvised blasting caps. Store
in a waterproof container until ready to use.
Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part
petroleum jelly in a wide bowl or similar container. Mix
ingredients with hands (knead) until a uniform paste is
52 Anarchist Handbook
Anarchist Handbook 53
Making your own Rocket Launcher would seem to most
people an impossible task, when in fact this device is one of
the simpler of all improvised weapons to construct. There's
no need for sophisticated machine tools— or difficult to ob-
tain parts— as only common household tools and materials are
Rocket launchers are smooth bore, breech loading, single
shot, shoulder weapons of the open tube type. Firing electri-
cally or mechanically ignited rockets, these rockets depend on
their fins to keep them stable during flight. Rocket launchers
can be fired from the shoulder in the standing, kneeling, sit-
ting and prone positions.
In existence for over 40 years, earlier models were made of
steel, and weighed about 15 pounds unloaded. Current mili-
tary models are mostly made of plastic or fiberglass and are
of the one-shot disposable type.
The design presented here is a very simple one to make,
while still being highly effective. It should be noted that these
devices are illegal to construct and to own, and are capable of
causing devastating damage. Study, therefore, the informa-
tion, but consult with the authorities before attempting to
build any destructive device. All information is provided for
academic study only!
The rockets presented here can be built from components
available from model rocket companies. Parts are available at
most hobby shops, toy stores or directly from the manufac-
These companies will send you catalogs that contain most
of the parts necessary for the construction of bazooka rock-
Estes Industries Centuri Engineering Co.
Penrose, CO 81240 P. 0. Box 1988
Phoenix, AZ 85001
54 Anarchist Handbook
MATERIALS NEEDED FOR CONSTRUCTION:
1) TUBE: Launcher tube should have a diameter of from 2
to 4 inches and approximately 4 to 6 feet in length. This tube
can be made of steel, aluminum, plastic, fiberglass or card-
board. If using a cardboard tube, however, obtain one with a
1/8 to 1/4 inch wall thickness. DO NOT use mailing tubes or
gift wrapping paper tubes to build your launcher. Some plaa-
tic tubes have also been found not rigid enough, and won't
remain straight, when longer than 5 or 6 feet. To test rigid-
ness, hold tube at the center and if it bends, DO NOT USE
IT, as rocket performance will be erratic at best.
2) ELECTRONIC LAUNCHING DEVICE: A launching
device is a switch that provides current to an igniter, thus
launching the rocket. These devices are manufactured by
model rocket companies. One of the better units on the mar-
ket is called the Solar Launch Controller. Manufactured by
Estes Industries of Colorado, this unit weighs just over 7
ounces, including the batteries, and measures 6.1 inches in
length. Height is only 2.4 by 1.44 inches in width.
Unit can be assembled in minutes and includes a safety
key, continuity check lamp, ignition button (trigger device
on your rocket launcher) and 15 feet of cable. Cost is around
Anarchist Handbook 55
Follow the following procedures before attempting shoul-
1) Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which
you can stand behind in case the weapon explodes when
2) Mount launcher solidly to a table or other rigid support
at least ten feet in front of barrier.
3) Insert a rocket into the launcher tube and attach the alli-
gator clips to the igniter in rocket engine.
4) Take the control device and go behind the barrier. (The
control device must be detached from tube.)
5) Push the firing button so that the weapon fires.
6) IMPORTANT: Fire at least five rounds from behind the
barrier and then re-inspect the launcher before you at-
tempt to shoulder fire it.
2 « 8
OTHER AVAILABLE TITLES
□ HOW TO MAKE DISPOSABLE SILENC-
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D IMPROVISED MUNITIONS HAND-
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No. 30 $12.00
D TWO COMPONENT HIGH-EXPLOSIVE
MIXTURES AND IMPROVISED
SHAPED CHARGES. Complete details
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D IMPROVISED WEAPONS OF THE
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D LOCKS, PICKS AND CLICKS. The
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Please send me the book(s) I have checked above. I am enclosing
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Rosemead, CA 91770