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So DIARY OF MARGATE
nth May, 1672. Went to Chatham. i2th. Heard a
sermon In Rochester Cathedral.
13th May, 1672. To Canterbury; visited Dr. Bargrave,
my old fellow-traveler in Italy, and great virtuoso.
i4th May, 1672. To Dover; but the fleet did not appear
till the 16th, when the Duke of York with his and the
French squadron, in all 170 ships (of which above 100
were men-of-war), sailed by, after the Dutch, who were
newly withdrawn. Such a gallant and formidable navy
never, I think, spread sail upon the seas. It was a goodly
yet terrible sight, to behold them as I did, passing east-
ward by the straits between Dover and Calais in a
glorious day. The wind was yet so high, that I could
not well go aboard, and they were soon got out of sight.
The next day, having visited our prisoners and the Castle,
and saluted the Governor, I took horse for Margate.
Here, from* the North Foreland Lighthouse top (which is
a pharos, built of brick, and having on the top a cradle
of iron, in which a man attends a great sea-coal fire all
the year long, when the nights are dark, for the safeguard
of sailors), we could see our fleet as they lay at anchor.
The next morning, they weighed, and sailed out of sight
to the N.E.
19th May, 1672. Went to Margate; and, the following
day, was carried to see a gallant widow, brought up a
farmeress, and I think of gigantic race, rich, comely,
and exceedingly industrious. She put me in mind of
Deborah and Abigail, her house was so plentifully stored
with all manner of country provisions, all of her own
growth, and all her conveniences so substantial, neat, and
well understood; she herself so jolly and hospitable; and
her land so trim and rarely husbanded, that it struck me
with admiration at her economy.
This town much consists of brewers of a certain heady
ale, and they deal much in malt, etc. For the test, it is
raggedly built, and has an ill haven, with a small fort of
little concernment, nor is the island well disciplined; but
as to the husbandry and rural part, far exceeding any
part of England for the accurate culture of their ground,
in which they exceed, even to curiosity and emulation.
We passed by Riekborough, and in sight of Reculvers,
and so through a sweet garden, as it were, t} Canter-