The Floorball Book

The Floorball Book

Equipment and Maintenance

Table of Contents

Table of Contents 1

Buying the Right Equipment 1

Stick 1

Shoes 7

Player Accessories 7

Goalkeeper Equipment 8

Goals 10

Board 10

Kits 11

Balls 11

Cones and Accessories 11

Total Cost 12

Where to Buy 12

Maintenance 12

Changing the Grip 12

Changing the Blade 13

Hooking the Blade 14

Shortening a Stick 17

Goal Nets 18

Costs 19

Licence 19

Buying the Right Equipment

Since the beginnings of floorball, the variety and quality of equipment has continually
improved. Where once most sticks were the same, today a floorball player is faced with a
large variety of choices. This is a positive development, as every player can now purchase
the equipment best for his or her needs.

Because of the large number of different sticks and accessories, it is important to make
the right choice. The most expensive stick is not necessarily the most suitable one for you.
In this chapter you will learn how floorball equipment differs, and how you can choose
the best equipment for your needs.

When choosing a floorball stick, there are a lots of thing you may want to consider. This
section should help you do so. Not all points you can consider are equally important.

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

However, it is absolutely essential that you choose the right blade (left or right). The
second most important point to consider is probably the stick length. The good news is
that you are allowed to shorten a stick. This means that if you buy a stick that is too long,
you do not necessarily need to buy a new one. Next up, think about the flex (how stiff the
shaft is). Having covered these three points, you should have come up with a pretty good
choice already.

Make sure you always buy floorball sticks with an official IFF certificate. Such
certificates are not only required if you want to play in the league or official competitions,
but are a sort of safety certificate. Sticks only carry the IFF certificates when they comply
with the strict regulations and have passed independent safety tests.

If you are concerned about one of the features, but your point of sale does not state the
values, you often get the answer when asking. Moreover, many manufacturers
themselves list a large amount of useful information about their sticks on their web site.
If you are serious about choosing a stick, and you also wish to consider the less important
features, these web pages are well worth a visit.

What We Are Talking About

^

Grip

Figure 1' Parts of the stick' blade,
shaft grip.

First off, let us establish what we are talking
about. Figure 1 should help you understand
what the different parts of a floorball stick are
called. The whole thing is the floorball stick.
The blade is the part the ball is played with.
The shaft is the long cylinder where the stick
is held. The upper end of the shaft is usually

covered in a grip. The grip helps you handle the stick better.

Blade: Left or Right

This is the most important choice when it
comes to choosing a floorball stick. It is
essential that you choose what feels right. Do
not choose left or right depending on whether
you are left-handed or right-handed, nor
should you be influenced by what the better
players use: this is purely about you, and
making the wrong choice will disadvantage
your play enormously.

To find out whether you play left or right,
pick up any stick. You should find out in
seconds what feels more natural to you. If
not, try a stick with a left blade and one with
a right blade for a few moments, trying to
pass and shoot. The terms left and right refer
to which side of the body you shoot. If you shoot left, your right hand is placed on top of
the shaft. If you shoot right, your left hand is placed on top of the shaft (see figure 2). In
countries where field hockey is common, players tend to choose right. In countries where
ice hockey is common, players tend to choose left. However, you should not be guided by
what the other players choose^ choose what feels right to you.

Being right-handed, shooting on the left will generally give you better stick handling.
Some players find they can change from shooting right to shooting left within a few
weeks, others find it awkward even after a very long time trying. You should never feel
forced to change the side on which you shoot; even if all your mates do it differently from
you, or that brilliant player you know shoots on the other side than you. There is a good
reason why blades are produced for both left and right shooters. However, players who
are right-handed, more generally shoot on the left. The reason is that the right hand is on
the top, and thus allows you better control over the stick. Conversely, being left-handed,
shooting on the right allows better stick control.

Figure i*' Left and righ t- the player on
the left of this illustration shoots right,
the other on the left.

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Figure 3- Stick length-
a stick should reach to
the belly button.

Stick Length

The length of your floorball stick is probably the second most
important choice. If possible try out sticks of different length,
because the guides provided here are only of general nature. If
you feel more comfortable with a longer stick than generally
recommended, use a longer stick.

You are allowed to shorten your stick at the end (see page 17).
This is important to know, since some manufacturers sell
their sticks only in a rather long version. Never shorten the
stick at the bottom where the blade is attached. This is not
only prohibited by the rules, but can also be dangerous.

As a general rule, your floorball stick — including the blade —
should reach your belly button (or up to 5 cm above). Figure 3
illustrates this length. Children and youth players sometimes
play with significantly longer sticks, reaching up to the chest.

Even small children should not play with sticks longer than that. They might get used to

the wrong moves, and harm their back.

Longer sticks give you a better range. This
means that the area you can easily reach with
your stick is larger. They are also thought to
be kinder on your back. Defenders frequently
choose slightly longer sticks. However, you
should choose your stick length based on what
you are comfortable with, not based on what
others tend to use. Shorter sticks, in contrast,
give you quicker ball handling. This may be

the essential split second when doing a trick, or turning when running. They are also

thought to give you more powerful shots.

When you buy a floorball stick, normally given is the length of the shaft. The table in this
section is a rough guide to how long your stick should be. How tall you are is the most
important factor; your preference is secondary, but not unimportant.

Stiffness (Flex) ^- ^ n^^^^, .i^^^^^^^^^^^^^^B

Here is an important piece of floorball jargon. The flex simply states how stiff the shaft is.
Choosing the right stiffness will benefit your play. The flex is probably the third most
important criterion to choosing a floorball stick. If in doubt, go with a slightly softer stick
to begin with.

Heavier players tend to use stiffer shafts. This
is the case because they normally put more
power on the stick, and therefore bend it more
easily. Stiffer sticks are sometimes heavier,
but this is not necessarily the case. If the stick
is too stiff — that is the flex is too low — you lose
power in the shot. This is not noticeable when
you literally hit the ball, but with any other

Body Height

Shaft Length

Under 1.30 m

70 cm

1.30 m to 1.45 m

75 cm

1.45 m to 1.55 m

80 cm

1.55 m to 1.65 m

87 cm

1.65 m to 1.75 m

92 cm

1.75 mto 1.95 m

95 cm to 100 cm

Over 1.95 m

100 cm

Figure 4- The flex is measured by

applying 30kg.

kind of shot, shooting becomes more difficult

The stiffness of a floorball stick is usually written straight on the shaft. Look out for
small letters. 24 mm is very stiff 27 mm is stiff 30 mm is regular; 35 mm is soft. Typical
values are 26 mm to 32 mm for female players. Typical values for male players are 24
mm to 28 mm. Youth players normally play with a flex of over 30 mm. This means that
children and youth players should not normally play with top-range sticks^ these are
normally much too stiff, and adversely affect the play and development of the aspiring
floorball player.

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

In technical terms, the flex simply states how much the shaft bends when 30 kg are
applied (see figure 4). A small number of sticks have two flexes, depending on the
direction the pressure is applied. For example there are sticks with a different flex for the
forehand and backhand.

Weight

Most players like lighter sticks. The lighter the stick, the easier to handle it is.
Unfortunately, very light sticks may break more often, and usually come with a higher
price tag. This is the case because more expensive materials are used to make the sticks
lighter. Fortunately, improvements in materials mean that breaking floorball sticks are
rarer these days.

You should choose a light stick for better ball handling. A heavier stick might give you
stronger shots, but only if you are strong enough to make use of the additional weight.
There are other aspects, such as technique or the blade, which are more important when
it comes to shooting power than the weight of the stick. If the stick is too heavy, your
hands and wrists tire more easily, meaning that you feel tired more quickly. The weight
of the stick is often given when you buy the stick. Make sure whether the stated weight is
for the shaft only, or the whole stick (including blade and grip). A complete stick is often
between 250g and 300g.

There are different materials used for the shafts, such as fibreglass, polycarbonate, or
carbon fibre. Usually, the material used is directly reflected in the price. Composite
materials are very common these days, such as carbon composites. Graphite and carbon-
based sticks tend to be the more expensive ones. Fibreglass is only suited for beginners
and schools, if at all.

Shape ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^1

The shape of the shaft is often stated when you buy a stick. If not, it should be obvious to
you when you take the stick in your hand. Choose a round or oval stick, depending on
your personal preference. There is nothing inherently better in either shape. What is
more, you will normally get used to a different shape in a few training sessions only.
There are many players who happily switch back and forth between round and oval
sticks.

Semi-oval is a common choice. It means that
the stick is oval at the top, and round at the
bottom. There are also special shapes, such as
bubbles and curved shafts. Bubbles, like the
kickpoint technology, should increase the
power of your shots. A number of bubbles may
be included; anything between one and nine is common (see figure 6). Although bubbles
may look a bit particular, they should not negatively affect your play in any way. Curved
shafts exist to improve ball handling. For most players, the improvement is not as
significant as what a few training sessions can do. Advanced players may find such
special shapes more beneficial.

Figure 5' Shapes of the shaft- oval on
the left round on the right

Stiffness and Material of the Blade

Figure 6- Bubbles are found in some
shafts.

Having covered the shaft, you might want to
pay attention to the blade. Blades are made of
plastic or nylon compounds. Different
materials are sometimes added to add
stiffness, or make a blade softer or harder
whatever is desired by the manufacturer.
Colour is no indication of stiffness at alL in

fact, many blades of the same stiffness come in different colours.

Soft blades are better for ball handling, as the ball bounces off less. Soft blades are also
good for accurate passes and wrist shots. Hard blades, in contrast, give you more

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

powerful shots, and allow you to hit faster passes. Like with almost all criteria, personal
preference plays a strong role. Most players seem to settle somewhere in between the
softest and hardest blades. Generally, PA and PE plastic are hard, whereas HDPE is soft.
The added materials usually make a great difference.

Open Face ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|

Open face describes the shape of the blade, as outlined in figure 7. A blade is said to have
a more open face when the bottom part of the blade (where the blade touches the floor)
comes forward, when the stick is held upright. Even though the amount of open face
affects your ball handling a great deal, it is not very often stated. Where it is stated, it is
given as a percentage, such as 3%. The higher the percentage is, the more open face the
blade has.

. ;

Figure 7' The blade on the right has
open face

A blade with more open face makes it easier to
lift the ball, to let the ball roll onto the blade,
or to hit high passes. If the blade is too open,
however, it is difficult to keep the ball on the
floor when passing. When shooting with too
much open face, you will shoot over the
crossbar most of the time. One reason that the open face of a blade is not very often given
when you buy the stick, is that you can adjust it yourself, by shaping the blade
accordingly. See page 15 for more details on how to shape a blade. Most players choose
some open face, but you might need to experiment a bit to find how much is right for you.

Whereas the open face of a blade can be adjusted by shaping a blade, the cavity of a blade
is essentially a feature of the blade. It describes the extent to which the blade is formed in
a way that increases contact with the ball. Figure 8 illustrates cavity. Cavity is achieved
by building blades that are thinner in the middle than at the bottom and the top. There
are, however, limits in the rules on how thin a blade can be.

Figure 8- The blade on the right has
cavity

A blade with greater cavity means faster wrist
shots, and a better feel for the ball. In
contrast, less cavity means more precise
passing. However, with good technique, cavity
does not significantly decrease the precision of
passing.

The cavity of a blade is not very often given. Where it is given, it is given in millimetres.
It is more common for manufacturer to state that the blade comes with cavity (as opposed
to flat blades), or that it comes with increased cavity (as opposed to blades with just a
little). Some blades are designed for tricks, and these often come with a great deal of
cavity. Indeed, blades designed for airhook and zorro moves often come with as much
cavity as allowed. Whilst these blades make the tricks easier, they often make other
aspects of the game — such as passing — more difficult.

The effects of cavity can be mimicked when the blade is shaped. A blade with little cavity
can be shaped as if it had much more. Care must be taken not to exceed the maximally
allowed hook (30 mm). See the section on hooking on page 14 for more details.

Shape ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

There is a surprising variety in the shapes of blades available. Not only do the shapes of
blades differ between different manufacturers, but the same manufacturers usually
produce different shapes. Smaller blades are designed with quicker ball handling in
mind, larger blades in order to increase the contact with the ball. Thinner blades give you
a better touch, but conversely a thicker blade is more stable when shooting. If you
consider the shape of the blade an important factor the choice of sticks you can buy will
therefore be strictly limited. This is the case, because not all blades are allowed on all
sticks, as outlined on page 13. The replacement of allowed blades is however relatively
easy.

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The jury is still out on what is best in terms of the shape of the blade. Much comes down
to personal preference, and the manufacturers are set to keep innovating in this regard.
Having said this, some blades are designed with defenders or strikers in mind. Most
players pay little attention to the actual shape of the blade. Like the shape of the shaft
(round or oval), this is something you will normally get used to after just a few training
sessions.

Lie

Figure 9- Lie (a)
Grip

The lie is the angle between the floor and the shaft when
the blade is flat on the floor. It describes how close to the
body you play. See figure 9 for an illustration. A higher
degree of angle means that you play closer to the bodyj a
lower degree of angle means that you play further away
from the body. A higher degree may be beneficial for quick
turns and tricks.

The lie of a stick is very rarely given and not many players
pay attention to this factor. Like the shape of the blade, the
lie is something you will get used to within a few training
sessions. With a new stick it is usually difficult to determine
what makes it feel different from the old one, and the lie is
just one of the many factors.

There are many different kinds of grips, and some manufacturers produce a range of
different grips. What is best is entirely down to personal preference. Some players like
rather sticky grips, others loathe them. Most grips are a bit sticky when new, but this
often wears off after a few sessions. You can use soapy water to wash a grip.

All grips will eventually wear out, but some grips are stitched to help them survive a bit
longer. The good news is that grips can be replaced without any tools — not even a
screwdriver. In contrast with the blades, there are no restrictions as to what kind of grip
is allowed with which stick. This means that if you fancy a certain grip, you can go and
buy it. For example, one of your colleagues may have a stick with a grip you like.

Depending on where you live, getting a replacement grip may be a bit more difficult than
walking into a shop. The spread of internet shops has eased the situation a bit.
Nonetheless, some floorball players use grips originally designed for tennis rackets. This
is certainly a possibility. However, floorball grips are better for a number of reasons.
Firstly, they were designed with floorball in mind, meaning that the materials chosen are
suited best for floorball. Tennis grips are designed with different movements in mind.
Secondly, floorball grips are generally thinner and lighter. This means your stick will
overall not become heavier, something you risk with different grips. Thirdly, floorball
grips come in the right length. Some players use two or one and a half tennis grips to
overcome this. With either grip, you are allowed to shorten the grip. Finally, floorball
grips are cut and wrapped ready to go. This means that you simply unwrap the grip and
intuitively apply it; no guessing or cutting required.

Try Me! ^^^^■^.^.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H

Finally, the single best piece of advice for choosing a floorball stick is trying one out. This
is the case, because many aspects of a floorball stick come down to personal preference. If
it feels right, and you can get good shots as well as precise passes, chances are that you
have picked the right stick.

Summary ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|

There are many aspects you can consider when buying a floorball stick. Some of the
aspects are of little interest to many floorball players, others are essential. It is essential
that you buy the correct side: shooting left or right. The length of the stick is very
important, too. Fortunately, sticks can be shortened. The flex is another key aspect. The

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

best you can do, is to try out a stick, but where this is not an option, consider at least the
three essential aspects.

There are very few shoes particularly designed for floorball. This means, that your choice
is limited, or does it? Whilst shoes designed with floorball in mind have their advantages,
there are other considerations that should come first. First of all, a shoe should fit. This
means that you need to try out the shoes, and run around for a few moments. The shoes
should fit your feet tightly, but not be too tight either. It is better to buy shoes that fit
than shoes that do not fit but were designed for floorball. Having shoes that do not fit is
dangerous, and you risk serious injury.

What is essential is that you buy indoor shoes. Some cushioning (gel, air) can be good for
your joints, but is probably not as important as for running shoes. Your shoes should be
strong, so leather is a suitable material. Running shoes (trainers) are not suitable.
Because of the frequent stop and go motions, your toes will quickly penetrate the mesh.
What is more, running shoes do not support your joints adequately when playing
floorball. Instead, indoor shoes designed for volleyball, handball, or squash usually fulfil
the requirement of being strong. Tennis shoes are less suitable, but much better than
running shoes. Whilst tennis shoes are strong, their grip is usually not very well suited
for sports halls, at least not as well as indoor shoes. If you play on hard wood, and the
floor is not spotlessly clean, tennis shoes may mean that you slip from time to time. Like
everyone else, you should never wear shoes both outdoors and in the hall. Not only does
this make the hall dirty, but a dirty hall is a health risk as someone may slip on mud or
dust carried in from outdoors.

Summary]

It is essential that you wear shoes that fit well. Good shoes can support your movements
and protect you to a certain extent from injury. It is important that you choose shoes
designed for indoor use. They should be strong enough to support the frequent stop and
go movements. Shoes designed for floorball are rare, and for that reason not necessarily
your first choice. Running shoes (trainers) wear out very quickly, and do not provide
adequate support.

Player Accessories

There are a number of accessories available to floorball players. In terms of safety,
goggles are the most important accessory. In contrast with much of the safety gear out
there, floorball goggles not only keep you safe, but are also stylish. Goggles are
recommended to protect your eyes. The chances that you are hit in the eye by a stray ball,
stick, or elbow are low. In most cases your eyes will shut in time to prevent injury.
However, it is also possible that you could lose your eyesight completely — go blind.
Goggles are worn to prevent this from happening; they are worn because other players
have been injured badly. With the stylish goggles available, there is no excuse not to wear
any.

Players with long hair may wish to wear hair bands to keep the hair out of the face.
There are hair bands by the floorball manufacturers, but these are essentially just hair
bands with the brand printed on.. For safety reasons you are not allowed any accessory
with hard parts, such as hats, or hair bands with buckles.

A number of floorball players use wrist bands. They can help to keep your wrist warm,
but are mainly used to wipe away sweat It is a personal choice whether to wear a wrist
band or not. Logo branded wristbands are also permitted.

Jewellery, earrings, and watches should be removed before playing floorball. Tight
necklaces are generally accepted as being safe. Loose necklaces, bracelets, earrings and
so on are a risk to yourself and other players. For this reason, you should remove them
before playing floorball. What is more, you might damage your precious belongings. There

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

are earrings that cannot be removed easily. Unfortunately wearing them is not safe.
Rather than removing them, you can use tape to stick them onto your earlobes (see
Figure lO). Make sure the tape covers both the front and rear of the earlobe. They might
look innocent enough, but any kind of earring can be caught in the clothing of other
players, and could then be torn out of your ear. Whilst this is not a very serious injury,
this kind of injury tends to bleed a lot. By taping them, the risk of injury is reduced.
Small nose stubs are often a smaller risk, but should be removed if possible, as is any
other piercing. Again, covering these with tape reduces risk of injury a great deal. Some
players even think they look professional with taped ears.

Stick bags are an accessory many players
invest in. They come fairly cheap, and hold
your sticks. If you only own one stick, the
benefit of a stick bag may not be that obvious.
For players with two or more sticks, a bag is
simply convenient and makes it easier to carry
your floorball sticks. There is quite a variety of
bags available. The most important aspect is
whether the bag is big enough. If you want to
carry four or five sticks, then obviously the
bag should be large enough. Similarly, if your
sticks are rather long, such as 100 cm or
longer, the choice of bags might be slightly limited. There are different kinds of handles,
and some are specifically designed for instance, to carry the bag on a bicycle.

Figure 10- Taping ear lobes to cover
earrings

Goalkeeper Equipment

Shirt and Trousers

Floorball goalkeepers are equipped in a different way than the field players. They need to
wear long trousers and a jersey. The rules do not say anything about the colour of the
jersey, nor its length. For competitive games, numbering is essential. Padding is allowed
as long as the area covered by the goalkeeper is not increased. In practice goalkeepers
want quite a lot of padding. Even though the ball is light, powerful shots mean that
keepers require appropriate clothing.

The trousers are padded at the front. Basic goalkeeper trousers are simply padded
trousers. They are suitable in that the goalkeeper is protected adequately. More advanced
goalkeeper trousers differ in terms of material used and the actual shape of the trousers.
The material makes them more robust, and often glides more easily on the floor. The
particular shape makes moving easier. Whilst the goalkeeper wants to be protected, he or
she also wants to be able to move freely and quickly.

Padded pullovers are the basic protection for goalkeepers. Not only should the chest be
padded, but the arms should have some padding, too. There are special goalkeeper vests
to protect the chest. Wearing such vests can provide extra protection, or be worn with
lighter pullovers or shirts. The choice of goalkeeper equipment should be driven by the
extent to which it protects the goalkeeper, as well as comfort. Free movement should not
be inhibited by the equipment.

Some goalkeepers use silicon sprays on their trousers for better sliding on the floor.
Silicon sprays or other such means are strictly prohibited by the rules. The reason being
that silicon sprays not only make the trousers slide on the floor, but can also make
players slip whilst running on the floor where such trousers were worn. This practice is
very dangerous, and serious injuries can be the result. Under no circumstances should
you ever use silicon spray or similar means.

Goalkeeper equipment may look expensive, especially the more modern equipment.
Modern goalkeeper suits are specifically designed with the needs of goalkeepers in mind,
combining protection with comfort. Serious goalkeepers will need to spend a considerable
amount on their equipment.

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

Knee Protection

Because goalkeepers spend most of their time on their knees, most goalkeepers wear
some kind of knee protectors. There are still very few protectors designed for floorball
specifically, but such protectors do exist. Whilst the protectors designed with floorball in
mind are the most suitable ones, they do not come cheaply. A cheaper alternative is
usually the use of volleyball knee protectors. Suitable protectors are the gel based
protectors with a relatively large area padded. Unfortunately, all protectors — even the
floorball protectors — move around a bit. What you will be looking for is a protector that
moves as little as possible. For this reason it is important to buy the right size of
protector, and attach it correctly. In order to find out the most suitable protector, there
seems to be no way around trial and error. Goalkeepers are also advised to ask around,
learning from the experience of other keepers.

Other Protection

The groin area is often not very well protected by goalkeeper trousers. One reason is that
the way these trousers are designed to allow manoeuvrability, the groin area is very
lightly padded if at all. The other reason is probably that the manufacturers assume that
the goalkeeper already wears groin protection. There does not seem to be any special
groin protector for floorball goalkeepers. The reason for this is probably that there are no
specific needs for such a product, as all groin protectors offer the same kind of protection.
The same kind of protector as used in kick-boxing or ice hockey can be used.

Face Mask

Goalkeepers also wear a face mask. The face mask should be IFF certified. Whilst other
face masks or ice hockey helmets technically do the job of protecting the goalkeeper,
floorball face masks are necessary. The most important reason for using a floorball mask
is that they are manufactured within specific dimensions to prevent floorball blades and
sticks from reaching the keepers eyes. A second reason is that they are lighter than other
face masks providing free and quick head movement allowing the keeper to easily follow
play and actively defend shots on goal with his head.

Shoes

Goalkeepers require shoes that are similar to those that field players wear. They should
be strong, and have a reasonable grip on the floor. For this reason, indoor shoes are
needed. What is more, however, is that goalkeepers want their shoes to slide on the floor,
when they kneel. Some goalkeepers put a bit of smooth tape on top of the cap of their
shoes. Strong shoes are required to protect the toes, because unfortunately it is not
uncommon for goalkeepers to be hit on their feet.

Gloves or Bare Hands

Whether you play with padded gloves or your bare hands is a matter of choice. Gloves
have the advantage that they soften the impact of balls. Their disadvantage is that it is
more difficult to actually catch a ball. You are not allowed any adhesives, neither on your

gloves, or applied directly on your fingers.
Playing without gloves means that you can
move your fingers more easily and thus are
able to catch more balls rather than have
them bounce off. The disadvantage is that
hard shots can be a bit stingy, and the skin
of your fingers may suffer. The sting is
something many goalkeepers put up with,
the splitting of the skin is something you
can prevent by taping the end of the fingers.
See figure 11 on how this can be done. A bit
of tape around the ends of your fingers prevents the skin from cracking open. This is
especially recommended when it is cold, and the ball is harder because of the
temperature.

Figure 11' Finger taping to prevent
splitting of the skin

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

Figure 12-' A full- sized goal is 160 cm
wide, 115 cm higli, and 65 cm deep.

Summary'

Goalkeepers have a number of choices when it comes to equipment. You should always
put safety first, and thus primarily consider protection. Comfort is important, and
clothing that allows you to move freely improves your game. More expensive floorball
equipment allows you exactly this.

Goals

Goal cages need to be IFF certified if you want to use them in competitions. An IFF
certificate not only ensures you that the dimensions are right, but also that the goal is

safe to use. The goals used in floorball are 115
cm high, 160 cm wide, and 65 cm deep. They
are made of round piped steel and painted red.
Being round is important for safety reasons. A
proper goal not only has a net, but also a catch
net attached a little behind the opening. The
catch net does what its name implies^ catch
balls and prevent them from bouncing out of
the goal cache.

Proper floorball goals can be expensive, and it
is usually worth shopping around a bit. Bear
in mind delivery costs. Goals are bulky and
almost always incur special delivery costs.
Many clubs use different goals for training,
sometimes of smaller size. Whilst this saves
you money in the short run, eventually every club will need proper goals. Having full-size
goals is also good for the players and goalkeepers, getting used to the right dimensions^
instinctively shoot on the right placeJ instinctively know where the goal posts are.

Boar(

For competitive games a club will need a set of boards. Usually, this is a purchase left
until the club is well established. Fortunately, it is often possible to hire boards from
other clubs or in some countries the national federation. When buying boards, there are a
number of points to consider. Storage can be an issue, and you should check with your
facility managers where and how you can store the boards. You should also know how to
move the boards from the storage to the hall and back. The boards are relatively large,
and moving around corners can be difficult. Most boards come with their own trolleys,
allowing them to be rolled around: rnake sure there are no steps between the storage and
the hall. As with the goals, boards are expensive, and it is usually worth shopping
around. Make sure you know about the exact shipping charges, as they can be
considerably expensive.

Whilst the size of boards is standardized to 50 cm, the materials and quality of boards
varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. A big difference is also how the boards are
assembled. Some boards have the tendency to collapse in whole sides when a player falls
into the board. Others are constructed better, so that only one or two elements are
affected at a time. This is something you should check with clubs who have bought the
same boards, so ask for references.

You can expect a full rink to last for many years. This is one way to make the expensive
cost a bit more bearable. The other way is to look at the great sponsoring space you get.
There are 120 m of boards you can sell to sponsors.

If you own a set of boards, it is a good habit to train using the full rink all the time. It
may take an extra 5 to 10 minutes to get ready, but if everyone helps, time can be kept
down. The advantage is that the players get a feel of the right rink, get to play off the
boards as if in a competitive game. Playing off the wall often is slightly different, as the
balls tend to bounce off in a different way. The players will also get a feel of the 50 cm

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

10

height, and not be surprised how many shots and passes actually go out or remain inside
the rink.

Field players play with a kit of a jersey, short trousers, knee socks, and indoor shoes. The
use of shin guards is permitted, but they need to be worn inside the socks. The rules
regulate the numbering of jerseys^ numbers both on the front and the back. The trousers
need not be numbered. Many teams use their kits for sponsoring purposes.

For training purposes, cotton shirts are a
common choice, combining comfort with
affordable prices. For competitive games,
cotton is probably unsuitable^ there are better
textiles that keep the sweat away from the
body. In either case, players should not wear
anything that hinders free movement.

Figure 13 illustrates a full kit for a field
player. There is a jersey with numbers both on
the back and the front. There are short
trousers, and knee socks. There is no need to
have numbers on the trousers. For competitive
games, the numbers on the back need to be at
least 20 cm, and the chest figures at least 7

cm. Teams are free to choose short or long sleeves for their jerseys, but everyone needs to

have the same. Most players find short sleeves more comfortable.

Figure 13- Shirt with numbers on front
and bacli.

Balls

Until recently, when it came to floorball balls, there was not much of a choice. Whilst
they are standardized by the rules, they were all pretty much the same. Some
manufacturers were thought to offer better quality balls, however there was no
agreement as to which manufacturers they were. Today, these balls are still widely used
and liked, but new so-called precision balls are also available. Precision balls differ in
that their surface is not smooth, but covered in over a thousand dimples, making them
look a bit like golf balls. These new balls are a bit more predictable than the old ones,
flying in a steadier manner.

All floorball balls are made of two halves of plastic fused together.
After a while, they tend to crack, either along the line where they are
fused together, or around the holes. You should not play with a faulty
ball, and probably would not want to as they react differently to a
"normal" ball.

Whilst precision balls are more expensive, they not only are preferred
by many in terms of ball handling, but some believe that they last a
bit longer in the sense that they tend to remain hard for much longer.
The traditional balls, in contrast, get softer the older they are.
Eventually however all balls crack.. Both versions come in different
colours. Colours can be cute, but usually are not an issue. There are
coaches using different coloured balls for specific exercises, but in
most cases, they just add a bit of colour. Normally, in a game the ball is required to be
white. If the floor of your hall is very bright, you might choose another colour^ red being
the second most common choice. Recently, for international games, a vanilla yellow ball
was chosen, possibly because this ball can be viewed easier on televised games.

Figure 14'
Floorball is
normally played
with a white
ball

Cones and Accessories

For training sessions you might want to purchase a number of other accessories, such as
cones and space markers. Often such accessories are available in the hall, and you may

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

11

wish to ask if you can use these before purchasing your own. Basic cones and space
markers for example, are cheap and readily available and can be useful to mark places in
exercises. Other accessories, such as boxes and benches are probably either too expensive
or two bulky to be stored, unless they are made available to you by the hall. It is often
useful to talk to the facility manager about your needs.

Total Cosi

Having outlined all the equipment, you may be a bit daunted getting started at all.
Indeed goalkeeper material is not very cheap, but it is safety equipment. The good news
is that such equipment will last a few years. Goals are essential. To get started, you may
want to play on small sized goals where you need no goalkeeper. To play competitively,
you will need a goalkeeper, though. Many clubs start with improvised goals or even cones
to mark goals. This is fine to start with, but you will find it limiting in the long run.

Once you are equipped properly, the only recurring costs are balls, and to a lesser extent
sticks, blades, and grips. The next section deals with these in more detail. Goal nets do
not last as long as the goal cages, but they can be repaired, and even replaced.

Where to Bu^

Where you buy your floorball equipment largely depends on what is available where you
live. There might be general sports shops, or even specialist dealers. These are usually
the best choice, as you can touch the equipment yourself, and maybe can even try it out.
There is a difference in the range of products and brands stocked, and of course in the
kind of advice you can get. Because not every stockist is a specialist, it is a good idea to be
prepared when going shopping. This means you should know what you want and what
you need. A great deal of information is available on the internet, from the manufacturers
themselves.

The internet is a blessing for many, not only in terms of the information available, but
also because of the increasing number of internet shops. You should check very carefully
what you buy, since returning equipment may be difficult. Postage and delivery costs are
added in most cases, and they can vary a great deal. Particularly, if you live in a country
other than where the internet shop is based, postage can be expensive. The delivery
through the post or courier services is not normally a problem^ the equipment is strong
enough.

No matter where you buy your floorball equipment, do not be shy to ask questions. This is
a piece of advice especially important when buying off the internet. Do not assume things
if they are not explicitly mentioned. If you find some information surprising, confirm with
the shop. Unfortunately, the product descriptions of some internet shops are not very
reliable or informative. If you are unsure of how to proceed, you usually can get help from
one of your colleagues in your club. If you are a new club, your national federation should
be able to help you get going.

Maintenance

Once you have kitted yourself out with the basic equipment, there are a few things you
might need to do from time to time. Maintenance is mostly restricted to replacing worn
out parts, or adjusting the stick to your needs.

^hanging the Grip!

Replacing a floorball grip is a simple process. You will want to replace your grip when it
is torn, worn out, or no longer feels comfortable. In contrast to blades, there are no strict
regulations as to what kind of grip you are allowed to use.

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12

Choosing a Grip

The easiest and best you can do is buying a floorball grip. They come in the right length,
are specifically designed with floorball in mind, and are very easy to put on. You may
want to settle for a tennis grip, although most players find them too short, and putting
two grips too heavy. Floorball grips are also cut right (beginning and end) and rolled so
that you find applying the new grip intuitive.

Material Needed

In order to replace a grip, all you need is the replacement grip.

Procedure ■

\

=P

^

The actual procedure of replacing a grip is
simple. First, remove the old grip. Simply
remove the tape at the bottom (l) and tear off
the grip away starting from the bottom (2).
Next apply the new grip (3). Using a floorball
grip is intuitive as the right end is placed
outside of the roll when purchased. The grip is
ready to apply. You need to remove the plastic
backing film, but only remove the film little by
little as you go along to avoid a mess. Start at
the top of the stick (where the cap is), taking
care that the grip is tight and straight. The
grip is usually cut in a way that you can apply
the beginning of the grip straight to the shaft,
without worrying about the right angle.
Simply unroll the grip, sticking it tightly onto the shaft. Always keep the bit you add
parallel to the bits already on the stick (4). The different layers should overlap a little,
but not more than maybe 2 to 3 millimetres. The sticky bit should always be applied to
the shaft, not onto the grip. Once you reach the bottom, use the tape provided to cover the
end. You are set to go straight away. If your new grip is longer than your previous one,
just use scissors to cut it short.

Figure 15- Changing a grip' (l) remove
the tape; (2) tear off old grip, (3) start
right in a parallel direction, (4) add
layers and replace tape.

Changing the Blade

Replacing a floorball blade is a simple process. You will want to replace your blade when
any part of it is broken, or the bottom part is too thin (wear and tear). It is important to
understand which blades you are allowed to put onto your shaft before going shopping.

Allowed Blades

Not every floorball blade is allowed on every stick. Some people will tell you that
everyone mixes blades and shafts, and that therefore it is OK. They are simply wrong.
Others will tell you that you can mix blades and shafts freely, as long as they are from
the same manufacturer. Unfortunately, they are not entirely correct either.

In order to play floorball, your stick needs to carry a valid IFF certificate. This certificate
documents that the stick has passed independent testing. These independent tests not
only check whether the stick adheres to the dimensions set out in the official rules, but
more crucially are a safety test. In this sense, the IFF certificate is a safety certificate.
Note, a certificate is issued for a particular combination of shaft and blades.

All you are allowed to do is to replace the blade with another one also approved for the
particular shaft you have. The easiest is to get the same blade you already had. If you
want a different blade, you will need to check with the certifier. The Swedish National
Testing and Research Institute is the sole certifier, and they have a comprehensive
database online (http7/www-v2. sp.se/km/en/tech_ser/kmp/floorball/info. asp). Search for
your stick (manufacturer and type), click on the certificate number, and you can see

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

13

which blades are approved. If you have a recent stick, a blade from the same
manufacturer is usually certified and fits.

If you buy a different blade, it might not fit. More importantly, however, you invalidate
your IFF certificate, and may at least in theory be sent off for having incorrect equipment.
For safety reasons you should never mix blades and sticks that were not tested together.
Once you know what blade you want, take care to buy the right side. All blades come in
left and right.

Material Needed

In order to replace a blade, all you need is a suitable screwdriver, and a bit of strong glue.
A paper tissue and hair-dryer might come in handy, too.

Procedure

The actual procedure of replacing a floorball
blade is simple. Always make sure you get the
right blade (see above). First, remove the old
blade. In order to do that, you unscrew the
screws. Then you need to physically remove
the blade from the shaft. Most blades are also
glued on, and you might need to twist and
turn the blade to get the blade off. Heating
the end of the shaft and blade with a
hairdryer, hot air pistol, or hot water might
help. Once the blade is off, physically remove any leftover glue. Put some glue on the end
of the shaft and inside the new blade's end. Next, place the new blade onto the shaft,
making sure the blade is in the right position. You might need to twist and turn the blade
to get the blade on. Heating the end of the blade might help. Getting the position right is
particularly important if your stick is not round, but also because of the holes for the
screws. Many shafts have a small line indicating the correct position. Once the blade is in
position, you may leave the stick for a while for the glue to settle. If there is excess glue,
wipe it off with the tissue. After a while, when the glue has settled a bit, screw the screws
firmly home. Wait for the glue to settle properly before using your stick again.

Figure 16- To remove the blade, first
unscrew the blade, and then remove the
blade.

Hooking the Blade

Hooking a floorball blade means bending it to give it a certain shape. What shape you
want is personal preference. There are probably as many preferences of how to hook a
blade as there are players. A good hook can improve your game, but a bad hook can
equally cause trouble. Try out different hooks by using different sticks. You can hook your
blade again if you are unsatisfied. In this booklet, all kinds of shaping the blade are
referred to as hooking. Many make a distinction between hooking and shaping, with
hooking referring to bending over the length of the blade and shaping referring to
bending over the height. If you shape the blade both vertically and horizontally, this is
often known as cupping.

A new hook will take a few training sessions to get used to, but usually not too long. Most
players hook their blade in order to improve ball handling and dribbling, or to make it
easier to lift balls and shoot high. Indeed, a decent hook improves ball handling, allows
you to do certain tricks (better), and may improve your shots. Too much of a hook, or the
wrong kind of hook, may lead to poor passing, and imprecise shooting. These days many
floorball blades are pre-hooked a little bit (some quite a bit). Please note that the rules
limit how much you are allowed to hook the blade. Currently the rules stipulate a hook of
3 cm maximum. The hook is measured when the stick is flat on the floor, and the
difference between the blade and the floor may not exceed this maximum. The hook is
measured as the distance between the floor and the highest point of the lower side of the
blade (see figure 17). With modern hooks, this spot is likely to be in the middle of the
blade, towards its front.

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

14

If you break or melt the blade, you are no
longer allowed to use it. This is worth bearing
in mind, as there are certain risks when
hooking the blade. Hooking the blade properly,
however, does not damage your equipment,
and in most cases can improve your game.
Indeed, you can hook your blade over and over again, should you prefer to. As long as you
hook the blade when it is warm and thus soft, there should be no risk to damage the
blade. Whilst most sticks come with a relatively straight blade, they are clearly shaped
into forehand and backhand.

Figure 1 7- The hook is measured
between the floor and the highest point
of the lower end of the blade.

Banana Hook

Figure 18- Banana hook
Open Face^

Figure 19' Open face can be achieved
by bending the lower part of the blade
forward.

the ball when playing it.

Cavity

Figure 20' Cavity means enclosing the
ball more.

more than what a straight blade can do.

The banana hook is easy to achieve. It allows
you to turn quicker when running with the
ball, and to perform certain tricks. However,
at the same time, such a hook leads to
imprecise passing and shots.

Although some blades come pre-hooked with a
certain degree of open face, this is something
you can easily modify or add to a straight
blade. Open face is achieved by bending
forward the bottom of the blade. This allows
you to shoot and pass higher more easily. Most
players prefer some open face (i.e. not a
completely straight blade). However, having
too much open face means you shoot over the
crossbar, and cannot play precise passes on
the floor. The amount of open face depends a
large degree on your playing style, and you
might want to experiment a bit. Alternatively,
try out a hook of your team mates. In figure 19
the blade is illustrated in grey, with the shaft
in black. The aim of this hook is to get under

These days, almost all sticks come with some
cavity. More cavity can improve feel for the
ball, and thus ball skills. In order to mimic the
cavity of blades with more, you simply bend
forward the bottom and top of the blade a bit.
In many cases you can achieve the effect by
holding the blade in your hand and squeezing
the blade by pressing from both the top and
the bottom. In most cases, increasing cavity
means adding open face to the blade, and you
should consider whether you do not add too
much open face. Too much cavity makes some
types of shooting more difficult. Figure 20
illustrates this, with the blade in grey, and the
shaft in black. The aim is to enclose the ball

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

15

Little L

I

Figure 22- In addition to a little L, the
tip of the blade is bent downwards a
bit

The little L hook means that you bend the tip
of the blade. You try to achieve a sudden and
rather dramatic hook. It can be achieved by
pressing the soft blade onto a hard surface.

Figure 21' Little L The benefit is that you can pull back a ball.

Some players prefer this hook over the claw. Figure 21 illustrates this hook. The length of

the small bit at an angle may be varied, but as always, you need to consider the rules

(30mm).

Claw

A claw can be achieved by hooking the tip of
the blade only. You can do this irrespective of
how the rest of the blade is hooked. With some
blades, adding a claw is difficult when you
already added quite some cavity. In this case,
make sure that the blade is a bit softer than
what you would do when hooking otherwise. It
also helps to hook the blade in several stages.
Perhaps you want to start at the end, and once
the blade has cooled down completely, add the
claw at the front in a separate go. The softer
the blade, the easier it is to hook in any
direction. Watch your fingers, though. The
benefits of a claw are that you can pull a ball
straight backward. For many tricks this is

useful. What you do in terms of hooking is first shaping a little L hook. You then press

down the top of the tip, so that you can grab the ball easily.

Backh and Lift

The backhand lift is a hook designed to
facilitate backhand shots. Essentially you
want to add a bit of open face to the backhand
side of the blade. The benefit is that your
backhand shots go higher. The downside is
that it can be very difficult to have open face
on both sides. The trick is to try to only bend
the very last bit of the blade. What is more,
many blades are very stiff around the end of
the blade, so you may struggle to achieve this.
Make sure the blade is very soft at the end by heating it well, and press the blade on a
hard surface to get started. For finishing touches you may want to use your hands. This
hook is good for one trick only, so you might not compromise too much on other aspects of
your overall hook.

Angle^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l

Most blades are attached to the shaft in a
pretty straight way. If your shaft is round,
then changing the angle may be meaningless.
If the shaft is oval, or any other shape than
round, changing the angle adjusts the place
where you hit the ball. You hook the whole blade near to where the shaft is attached. It is
easier to do this, if the front of the blade is not soft. Place the blade on a flat surface and
twist the shaft a bit. You can also press the blade on the surface at an angle. Make sure
the hook is close to where the shaft is attached to the blade.

Figure 23- Backhand lift

Figure 24' The angle is bent right at
the end of the blade.

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

16

Figure 25- For the airhook, the front of
the blade needs to enclose the ball as
m uch as possible.

Airhook Basket

If you want to do the airhook trick, you need to
hook the blade in a particular way. What you
want to achieve is a basket for the ball, so the
ball does not drop during the trick. A basket is
useful for other tricks, too. In many regards,
an airhook basket is similar to the claw, but
you want to make sure that the bottom of the
blade is bent forward almost as much as the
top. Some players use a floorball ball, or even
snooker balls whilst hooking. Place the ball on
the front of the blade, and press it firmly into
the blade's tip. Use your hand to ensure a good
basket. The aim is to create a pocket for the
ball, where the blade totally embraces the ball.
Take great care not to exceed the maximum
hook if you want to use the stick in floorball games.

There is also a useful video manual available from the tRixxers, and you may find it on
YouTube. Search for "badny " (yes, b-a-d-n-y).

These are just some of the basic considerations when hooking a blade. You may want to
combine some of these for your own hook. For example, you may want to have more open
face, increase the cavity, and add a claw.

Tools Needed

In order to hook a blade, you need a source of heat, and cold water. You might also want
to use gloves or a towel. A suitable source of heat is a hot water, or a hot hair-dryer. A hot
air pistol is a quicker alternative, but you might not have one at hand. Hot air pistols can
also be more difficult to handle, but are more precise, as you can heat only the particular
part of blade you want to mould. Whatever source of heat, watch out for your fingers!
Some players use an electric hob as a source of heat. This is very difficult because under
no circumstances must the blade touch the hob itself. If it does it will melt: you destroy
the blade and have a real mess to clean up. Similarly, if you use an open flame, you may
simply destroy the blade (melting).

Procedure

The basic procedure is simple^ heating the blade, shaping the blade, cooling the blade.
First, heat the blade. You may want to warm up the whole blade, or only part of the blade.
Heat the blade from both sides. Make sure the parts of the blade you are going to mould
are quite soft. Never hook a blade when it is cold, you only risk damaging the blade, and
the hook will not last: the materials used make sure that the original shape is
maintained. Once the blade is soft, use your hands to give the blade the desired shape.
Many plastics become a bit shiny when they are softened. You might want to use gloves
or a towel to protect your fingers. If the blade cools down and moulding becomes difficult,
heat it again. If the blade is tough to mould, the blade probably needs to be heated more.
Some players use tools, such as blunt knives, to help hooking. This is not recommended
for inexperienced players, as you may damage the blade.

Once you are satisfied with the new hook, hold the blade in position and cool it at once.
Running cold water is well suited for this job, as is a bucket of cold water. Keep the hook
in position until the blade is cooled down properly. Maybe you need to quickly mop the
floor, but you are now ready to play. If you hook the blade to a great extent, you may
want to measure whether the hook does not exceed the 30 mm allowed by the rules.

^nortenmg a Stick

First of all, you will want to know whether your new stick is of the right length. See the
section on choosing a floorball stick on page 1.

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

17

Tools Needed

In order to shorten your stick, you will need a metal saw, and probably some glue, and a
bit of tape. Access to a proper workshop might come in handy. A source of heat, such as a
hairdryer, might also be necessary at some stage. Many players replace the grip at the
same time.

Procedure

Shortening a floorball stick is not very difficult, and should not take too long either.
Before you start you should figure out how much you want to shorten your stick.
Shortening is only allowed at the top end. Never shorten where the blade is attached to
the blade. It is not only illegal according to the rules, but you might end up with an
unsafe stick or one where the blade no longer fits.

First, you tear off that lovely grip. Remove the
tape at the bottom of the grip and just tear the
grip off (see figure 15). Second, you remove
that plastic cap at the end of the shaft.
Sometimes they are quite tough to remove, but
they always come off. If the cap is glued on

(most are), heating the cap might help, or the use of a screwdriver. Be careful not to

damage the shaft or the cap.

Third, use a saw (saws for metal are best) and cut off as much as you want. A proper
workshop or vice might be useful, as the shaft may slip. Always shorten your stick at the
cap end. Fourth, place the cap back on. If it is loose, glue it on. You may also use some
strong tape to fix the cap. It is important that the cap is tight. Fifth, replace the grip,
starting from the top. The grip should be rather tight. If it does not stick any more, use
glue. Alternatively, replace with a new grip. See the instructions on page 13 for more
details. Finally, use some tape to fix the bottom end of the grip. You are now ready to
play.

Under no circumstances are you allowed to lengthen a stick. Once it is shorter, that is it.
If you are unsure, shorten the stick only a little and repeat the procedure.

Figure 26- Always shorten at the top
end of the shaft

oal Nets

In contrast to the goal itself, the goal nets need looking after from time to time. In most
circumstances you can repair the nets, but sometimes you will need to replace them. Goal
nets that are taken care off will last significantly longer.

The main problems you come across are holes in the net, and the net coming off the goal
itself. If the goal net is no longer attached properly to the goal, use pieces of string or
cable fixers to attached them firmly again. If you use cable fixers, make sure they are
positioned in a way that no rough end may injure players or damage the floor. If there are
holes, you can usually use short pieces of string to close down the holes. Rather than
trying to replicate the pattern of the net, draw together intact parts to make sure the net
remains tight and no ball can pass through.

Many clubs, if they can afford it, have two sets of goals: one for competitions and one for
training. The goal nets of the ones for training are in this case used for much longer
before a replacement goal net is bought.

If your goals are accessible to other clubs, make sure that they are not used for other
sports. You may need to instruct your facility manager. For example, the size of floorball
goals makes them useful for small football games. Unfortunately, the extra weight and
size of the footballs wears the goal nets considerably.

The Floorball Book — Equipment (nosos)

18

Costs

Most of the maintenance does not involve any cost other than the replacement part.
Replacing parts is in all cases straightforward, and not many extra tools are required.
Fortunately most pieces of floorball equipment are durable.

; licence

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike
2.0 UK: England & Wales License. To view a copy of this license, visit
http7/creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/uk/ or send a letter to Creative Commons,
543 Howard Street, 5th Floor, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.

Authors and contributors^ Tidus (principal author), Ian Carrie (contributor)

Created 2006-8.

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19