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Full text of "The Note Books Of Samuel Butler"

to Alps and Sanctuaries         283

tendent, and which is in connection with the main meteoro-
logical observatory at Rome. Again I found everything in
admirable order, and left the house not a little pleased and
impressed with everything I had seen. [1889.]

Homer's Hot and Cold Springs

The following extract is taken from a memorandum Butler
made of a visit he paid to Greece and the Troad in the spring of
1895. In the Iliad (xxii. 145) Homer mentions hot and cold
springs where the Trojan women used to wash their clothes.
There are no such springs near Hissarlik, where they ought to
be, but the American Consul at the Dardanelles told Butler there
was something of the kind on Mount Ida, at the sources of the
Scamander, and he determined to see them after visiting Hissarlik.
He was provided with an interpreter, Yakoub, an attendant,
Ahmed, an escort of one soldier and a horse. He went first to the
Consul's farm at Thymbra, about five miles from Hissarlik,
where he spent the night and found it " all very like a first-class
New Zealand sheep-station." The next day he went to Hissarlik
and saw no reason for disagreeing with the received opinion that
it is the site of Troy. He then proceeded to B^marbashi and so to
Bairemitch, passing on the way a saw-mill where there was a
Government official with twenty soldiers under him. This
official was much interested in the traveller and directed his men
to take carpets and a dish of trout, caught that morning in the
Scamander, and carry them up to the hot and cold springs while
he himself accompanied Biitler. So they set off and the official,
Ismail, showed him the way and pointed out the springs, and
there is a long note about the hot and cold water.

And now let me return to Ismail Gusbashi, the excellent
Turkish official who, by the way, was with me during all my
examination of the springs, and whose assurances of their
twofold temperature I should have found it impossible to
doubt, even though I had not caught one warmer cupful
myself. His men, while we were at the springs, had spread a
large Turkey carpet on the flower-bespangled grass under the
trees, and there were three smaller rugs at three of the corners.
On these Ismail and Yakoub and I took our places. The
other two were cross-legged, but I reclining anyhow. The
sun shimmered through the spring foliage. I saw two hoopoes