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Full text of "Notes of a visit to the Russian church in the years 1840, 1841"

NOTES OF A VISIT 



HE RUSSIAN CHURCH 



DIBU07H. H, P, UDDON, S.T.P. 

L:CCL, OATH, , PAULI, APOST, 

LONDIM, dANOMIO, T, CANCELL, 



NOTES OF A VISIT 
TO THE RUSSIAN CHURCH. 



LONDON : 

TBINTED BY GILBERT AND BIVINGTON, LIMITED, 
ST. JOHN'S SQUABE. 







\ 




NOTES OF A VISIT 
TO THE RUSSIAN CHURCH 

IN THE YEAKS 1840, 1841. 



BY THE LATE 

WILLIAM PALMEB, M.A. 

Formerly Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. 



SELECTED AND AERANGED 

BY 

CARDINAL NEWMAN. 



LONDON: 
KEGAN PAUL TRENCH & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE. 

1882. 



PEEFATORY NOTICE. 

WILLIAM PALMEK, Fellow of Magdalen College, 
Oxford, eldest son of the Eev. William Jocelyn 
Palmer, Eector of Mixbury, and brother of Lord 
Chancellor Selborne, the Eev. George Horsley 
Palmer,, and Archdeacon Palmer of Oxford, was 
one of those earnest-minded and devout men, forty 
years since, who, deeply convinced of the great 
truth that our Lord had instituted, and still ac- 
knowledges and protects, a visible Church one, 
individual, and integral Catholic, as spread over 
the earth, Apostolic as co-eval with the Apostles 
of Christ, and Holy, as being the dispenser of His 
Word and Sacraments considered it at present to 
exist in three main branches, or rather in a triple 
presence, the Latin, the Greek, and the Anglican, 



vi Prefatory Notice. 



these three being one and the same Church, dis- 
tinguishable from each other only by secondary, 
fortuitous, and local, though important, character- 
istics. And, whereas the whole Church in its ful- 
ness was, as they believed, at once and severally 
Anglican, Greek, and Latin, so in turn each one 
of those three was the whole Church ; whence it 
followed that, whenever any one of the three was 
present, the other two, by the nature of the case, 
were absent, and therefore the three could not have 
direct relations with each other, as if they were 
three substantive bodies, there being no real differ- 
ence between them except the external accident 
of place. Moreover since, as has been said, on a 
given territory, there could not be more than one 
of the three, it followed that Christians generally, 
wherever they were, were bound to recognize, 
and had a claim to be recognized by, that one, 
ceasing to belong to the Anglican Church, as 
Anglican, when they were at Rome, and ignoring 
Rome as Rome, when they found themselves at 



Prefatory Notice. vii 

Moscow. Lastly, not to acknowledge this in- 
evitable outcome of the initial idea of the Church, 
viz., that it was both everywhere and one, was bad 
logic, and to act in opposition to it was nothing 
short of setting up altar against altar, that is, the 
hideous sin of schism, and a sacrilege. 

This I conceive to be the formal teaching of 
Anglicanism ; this is what we held and professed 
in Oxford forty years ago; this is what Mr. 
Palmer intensely believed and energetically acted 
on when he went to Russia. It was his motive- 
cause for going there ; for he hoped to obtain 
from the Imperial Synod such a recognition of 
his right to the Greco- Russian Sacraments, as 
would be an irrefragable proof that the doctrine 
of the Anglican divines was no mere theory, and 
that an Anglican Christian was ipso facto an 
Oriental Orthodox also. 

How Mr. Palmer's appeal for such a recogni- 
tion of our "Anglo- Catholicism " was met by the 
ecclesiastical authorities of Petersburg is the main 



viii Prefatory Notice. 

subject of this volume, though not the main object 
of its publication. It is published for the vivid 
picture it presents to us, for better or for worse, 
of the Russian Church, gained, as it was, without 
effort by the author's intercourse with priests and 
laymen, and with the population generally. As 
might be expected, they disallowed his claim ; 
but, what was hardly to be expected, they felt no 
sympathy for his conception of the Church of 
Christ, in its necessary unity, which, even if novel 
and strange, could not have been altogether new 
to them, as being at least part of that ancient 
teaching which they so proudly claimed as their 
own peculiar prerogative. 

Mr. Palmer demanded communion, not as a 
favour, but as a right ; not as if on his part a gra- 
tuitous act, but as his simple duty ; not in order 
to become a Catholic, but because he was a 
Catholic already. Now, if in refusing him they had 
confined themselves to the reason which they did 
also give, that, till he anathematized the Anglican 



Prefatory Notice. ix 

Articles, they could not be sure lie was not a 
Lutheran or a Calvinist, they would at least have 
been intelligible ; or, if they had simply urged, 
as they also did, that they could not commit 
themselves to new precedents for the case of 
an individual, and that Synods must meet, and 
formal correspondence ensue, and authoritative 
canons pass, on the part both of Eussia and 
England, before any acts of communion could 
take place, that too was a prudent and sensible 
course, and would give hopes for the future ; 
but, instead of keeping to ground so clear and 
so easily maintained, some of their highest pre- 
lates and officials go out of their way to deny 
altogether, or at least to ignore, the Catholicity of 
the Church as recognized in the Creed, as if their 
own time-honoured communion was but a revival 
of the ancient Donatists. They say virtually, 
even if not expressly, " We know nothing about 
Unity, nothing about Catholicity ; it is no term 
of ours it had indeed a meaning once, it has 



Prefatory Notice. 



none now. Our Church is not Catholic, it is Holy 
and Orthodox ; also, (because it came from the 
East, whence Divine Truth has ever issued,) it is 
Oriental. We know of no true Church besides 
our own. We are the only Church in the world. 
The Latins are heretics, or all but heretics ; you 
are worse; we do not even know your name. 
There is no true Christianity in the world except 
in Russia, Greece, and the Levant ; and, as to 
the Greeks, many as they are, after all they are a 
poor lot." 

Let me not be supposed to impute to those 
distinguished personages any discourtesy, whether 
of language or of conduct, in their intercourse 
with Mr. Palmer. They gave him a welcome, 
which, considering how little they could at first 
understand his motives in coming among them, 
tells altogether in their favour ; they listened to 
him with interest and earnestness, and, though 
political reasons were doubtless on the side of 
their being courteous to an Englishman, they 



Prefatory Notice. xi 

were, as if by nature and habit, as frank and 
communicative in their conversations with him, 
as he was on his part with them. In consequence 
of this mutual good understanding, Mr. Palmer 
made many friends in Russia, and had no reason 
to regret his going there. He liked the people 
and country, and returned there again and again ; 
and, though he failed from first to last in the 
direct object which started him on these expedi- 
tions, yet labours such as his, so Christian in 
their aim, so disinterested and self-sacrificing 
in their circumstances, are, in a religious 
point of view, never wasted, never lost. Mr. 
Palmer's earnest witness to the divine promise 
that the Christian Church, unlike the Jewish, 
should be spread all over the earth as Catholic 
and Ecumenical (however defective was his con- 
ception, as an Anglican, of its unity), had from 
the first its measure of success in Russia, and 
that success, whether greater or less, would of 
necessity tell upon the theological schools ; 



xii Prefatory Notice. 

moreover it would be the more important be- 
cause it took place at a time when the so-called 
Tractarians had, independently of him, been 
inculcating the same great truth on their own 
people in England. It is no wonder then, that, 
struck by this coincidence, there were those in 
both countries who listened to a preaching which 
(as far as it proclaimed the Unity and the Catho- 
licity of the Church,) was as primitive as it was out 
of date, and were led on in consequence to imagine, 
if not to contemplate, such a union in doctrine and 
worship of their respective Churches as would 
go far towards fulfilling the idea of a Catholic 
communion. 

I have no temptation, and am in no danger, 
of committing myself to extravagant or over- 
sanguine speculations in such a matter. Here I 
agree with Mr. Wallace in his instructive and 
interesting work on Eussia ; a real and effectual 
union at this time is a simple chimera. " Of late 
years," he says, " there has been a good deal of 



Prefatory Notice. xiii 

vague talk about a possible union of the Russian 
and Anglican Churches. If by ' union ' is meant, 
simply, union in the bonds of brotherly love, there 
can be of course no objection to any amount of pia 
desideria; but, if anything more real and prac- 
tical is intended, I may warn simple-minded, 
well-meaning people that the project is an 
absurdity," vol. ii. pp. 194, 195. Of course I do 
not sympathize in the tone of this passage ; after 
all, pia desideria are not bad things, though 
nothing comes of them, at least though nothing 
comes of them at once ; however, as to the future, 
I am bound to ask all "men of good will," who pray 
for peace and unity, whether here or in the North, 
to ponder the words of a leading Russian 
authority introduced into this volume, to the 
effect that, "if England would approach the 
Russian Church with a view to an ecclesiastical 
union, she must do so through the medium 
of her legitimate Patriarch, the Bishop of 
Rome." 



xiv Prefatory Notice. 

So much on the contents of this volume, which 
I have brought together and put into shape., to 
the best of my power, out of the materials and 
according to the evident intentions of Mr. Palmer, 
and, I should add, with the valuable assistance of 
the Rev. Father Eaglesim of this Oratory. I 
need hardly say I have no acquaintance with the 
Russian language, a condition, if not neces- 
sary, at least desirable, for my present under- 
taking ; but I have been called to it, as a religious 
duty, in the following way : I had often heard 
speak of Mr. Palmer's journals of foreign travel 
at the date when they were written ; and years 
after, when he was wont to pay me an annual 
visit here in the summer or autumn, the only 
seasons in which the English climate was possible 
to him, I used to urge upon him their publica- 
tion. But he never gave me any hopes of it, and 
I ceased to trouble him on the subject. After a 
time his spells of serious indisposition became so 
frequent, that when we took leave of each other, 



Prefatory Notice. xv 

it was on my part with the sad feeling that I 
was bidding him a last farewell. At length 
the end came, in 1879, just before I, in turn, 
was to have been his guest at Eome ; and then 
I found to my surprise that, so far from passing 
over my wish about his journals, he had by will 
left me all his papers. This is how he answered 
my importunity, showing a loving confidence in 
me, though involving me in an anxious responsi- 
bility. Of course he did not anticipate that at 
my advanced age I could myself do much ; but 
it will be a true satisfaction to me, if, as 1 am 
sanguine enough to expect, this volume, illus- 
trative of his first visit to Russia, should prove 
interesting and useful generally to Christian 
readers. 

I will say one word more : I cannot disguise 
from myself that to common observers, Mr. 
Palmer was a man difficult to understand. No 
casual, nay, no mere acquaintance would have 
suspected what keen affections and what ener- 



CONTENTS, 



CHAP. 

I. Mr. Palmer contemplates a visit to Russia . . 1 

II. Dr. Routh sanctions the project .... 6 

III. Difficulties with Magdalen College . . .11 

IV. Difficulties with the Primate . . . .16 

V. Mr. Palmer on his way to Petersburg . . .20 

VI. He arrives at Petersburg 23 

VII. His first walk in Petersburg . . . .31 

VIII. The Kazan Church 37 

IX. Table-talk at the lodging-house . . . .43 

X. Table and other talk 48 

XI. Mr. Blackmore's illustrative anecdotes . . 53 
XII. Mr. Blackmore's translations, chiefly as bearing on 

theUniats 62 

XIII. Official documents published with a view to the 

Uniat movement * 67 

XIV. Further illustrative remarks by Mr. Blackmore . 73 
XV. M. Baranoff' s anecdotes 78 

XVI. The Greek Liturgy 84 

XVII. The commencement of controversy . . .88 

XVIII. St. Metrophanes 91 

XIX. His claim and title to canonization ... 96 

XX. The Russian Saints viewed in their recognition of 

the Most Holy Synod 100 

XXI. Ancient Rite of Coronation 106 

XXII. Modern Rite of Coronation. . . . .110 
XXIII. Preliminary interview with Count Pratasoff. . 115 
a 2 



xx Contents. 



CHAP. PAGE 

XXIV. Issue of the interview- Mr. Palmer's letter for 

the Emperor 121 

XXV. M. MouraviefF and the Archpriest . . .130 
XXVI. Prince Alexander Galitsin, Master of Requests . 137 
XXVII. Mr. Palmer's first controversial discussion with 

the Archpriest : the Divine Procession . . 140 
XXVIII. Discussion continued : Trausubstantiation, Mass, 

and Icons 145 

XXIX. The Archpriest's view of Mr. Palmer's position 

and appeal 156 

XXX. Conversations with M. Mouravieff . . .160 

XXXI. Interview with Count Pratasoff. . . .169 

XXXII. Conversation with the Priest Malloff . . 174 

XXXIII. Interview with Count Pratasoff. . . .179 

XXXIV. Visit of some days to the Sergiefsky Monastery ; 

the Anniversary Service .... 183 

XXXV. The dinner of the festival 189 

XXXVI. Conversation with the Archimandrite . . 194 
XXXVII. Reminiscences of the Sergiefsky monks . .199 

XXXVIII. Reminiscences continued 205 

XXXIX. Reminiscences continued ..... 211 

XL. Reminiscences continued 216 

XLI. Return to Petersburg with one of the Sergiefsky 

monks 221 

XLII. Conversation with M. Mouravieff . . . 225 
XL III. Conversations with M. Mouravieff, M. Skreepit- 

sin, and the Priest Stratelatoff . . .229 
XLIV. Polemical attack on Mr. Palmer by a Russian 

lady 233 

XLV. Second discussion with the Archpriest . . 237 

XL VI. Conversation with the Priest Pafsky. . . 241 

XL VII. Conversation with the Priest Sidousky . . 247 

XLVIII. Dinner at Admiral Rikard's . . . .252 

XLIX. The Emperor inquires after Mr. Palmer . . 254 



Contents. xxi 



L. Interview with Princess Potemkin and Prince 

Galitsin. . ', *. . ., . . . .257 

LI. Third discussion with Archpriest . . . 263 

LII. Discussion continued . . ; . . -. - . . 267 

LIII. Conversation with diverse Priests and Laymen . 272 

LIV. Interview with Count Pratasoff . . . .276 

LV. The Archpriest J s final judgment on the Anglican 

view of the Eucharist . ... , - .- .280 
LVI. Conversations with the Rector of the Academy, 

M. Voitsechovich, and Prince Meshchersky . 283 

LVII. Mr. Palmer moves to the Priest FortunatoflTs . 286 

LVIII. Prince Michael, Mde. Poternkin's cousin . . 291 

LIX. Snow and ice. Winter begun . ., : ". . 294 

LX. History and training of a secular priest . . 296 

LXI. Course of studies &c. at the Spiritual Academy . 299 

LXII. Visit to the Academy 303 

LXIII. The Princess Sophia Galitsin . . . .306 

LXIV. The Archimandrites Palladius and Athanasius, 

and a Priest of the Academy . * . . 309 

LXV. M. Fort unatoff's deliverances . V . .312 

LXVI. His deliverances continued . .: *, .. .317 

LXVII. M. Fortunatoff on the Sacraments i . .320 

LXVI II. The same on the Church's development. His 

views continued *'... . . 325 
LXIX. Dinner at the Potemkins Fasts and church 

services. . ,. .... ;' . . . *, . .329 

LXX. Conversation with the Priest Raichofsky . . 332 
LXXI. Church Plate, Books, and Vestments. Income 

ofPriests *...*-, .. .*' .336 
LXXII. Church music . *...- - - - 342 
LXXI 1 1. John Veniamineff, missionary to the Aleou tines . 344 
LXXIV. Mr. Palmer is presented to the Metropolitan of 

Moscow. , .. , . . j: ......... ^> i , .349 

LXXV. His letter to the President of Magdalen . . 359 



xxii Contents. 



CHAP. PAGE 

LXXVI. Reconciliation to the Church, and marriage to 

Alexander, of the Princess of Darmstadt . 361 

LXXVII. Conversation with M. Mouravieff . . .364 

LXXVIII. M. Fortunatoffon Transubstantiation . .369 

LXXIX. Various Notabilities at the Synod House . 372 

LXXX. Conversations with the Princess Dolgorouky . 374 

LXXXI. Conversations with M. Mouravieff, the Bishop 

Veniaminoff, and M. Serbinovich. . . 380 
LXXXIL The Count suggests, that since the Russian 
Church cannot go to Mr. Palmer, he should 
go to the Russian Church .... 385 
LXXXIII. Princess Eudoxia Galitsin on Russian Dissenters 389 
LXXXIV. The Metropolitan Philaret's definitive judg- 
ment upon the XXXIX. Articles . . . 395 
LXXXV. The Princess Dolgorouky on the Russian 

peasantry 397 

LXXXVI. Whether nationality is the religious need of 

Russia 402 

LXXXVII. Mr. Palmer falls ill 404 

LXXXVIII. Count Capo d'Istria 405 

LXXXIX. Mr. Palmer's Formal Appeal to the Metropoli- 
tan of Moscow 406 

XC. The danger of Liberalism in religion . . 408 
XCI. Baptism of Jewish Children . . . .410 
XCJI. The French and British Ambassadors on the 

Anglican Church 413 

XCIII. Formal Answer of the Metropolitan of Moscow 415 
XCIV. Mr. Palmer leaves Petersburg for Moscow . 416 
XCV. The Grand Duke Alexander and his Bride, and 

the Townspeople and Villagers . . . 420 

XCVI. First view of Moscow 425 

XCVII. The Cathedral of the Assumption . . .431 

XCVIII. The Patriarchal Hall and Vestry . . .436 

XCIX. The Patriarchal Library 441 



Contents. xxiii 



CHAP. PAGE 

C. Other Treasures of the Patriarchal and other 

Churches. . . , . . '% i ' . .443 
CI. The Emperor, with his Son and Heir and Daugh- 

ter-in-Law . . . "; . . 445 

CII. The Choudoff Monastery . . V -. .447 

CIII. St. Sergius . . . . . . -. .449 

CIV. Visit to the Troitsa Lavra . . . . .452 

CV. The Feast of the Holy Trinity. The Trinity 

Church. The Anniversary Service . . . 457 
CVI. Dinner of the Troitsa Festival .... 463 

CVII. Library of the Academy, and the Theological Pro- 
fessor . . . . 468 

CVIII. Visit to Platen's Monastery and Sergius's Tomb. 471 
CIX. The Troitsa Vestry, and lodgings of the Metro- 
politan of Moscow 475 

CX. Conversation with the Archimandrite-Rector, 

Philaret 477 

CXI. The Abbess Tchoutchkoff 478 

CXII. Subsequent History of the Archimandrite-Rector. 480 
CXIIL Mr. Palmer's discussion with the Archimandrite- 
Rector about Invocation of Saints . . . 486 

CXIV. Discussion continued 490 

CXV. Mr. Palmer's reflections on his discussion with the 

Rector, and return to Moscow .... 495 
CXVI. His polemical encounter with the Princess Mesh- 

chersky 498 

CXVII. Encounter with the Princess continued. . . 504 
CXVIII. Conflict with the Princess renewed . . . 510 
CXIX. The Jesuit Fathers and the Bible Society . . 513 
CXX. Success in Russia, and Expulsion thence, of the 

Jesuit Fathers 517 

CXXI. Success in Russia, and Expulsion thence, of the 

Bible Society . 521 

CXXII. Visit to New Jerusalem . 524 



xxiv Contents. 



CHAP. 

CXX1II. Farewell interview with the Metropolitan and 

the Princess 527 

CXXIV. Keturn to Petersburg Conversations with 

Priests Vasili and Stratelatoff. . . .530 
CXXV. Visit to M. and Mde. Potemkin at Gortilitsa . 533 
CXXVI. Religious discussions at Gortilitsa . . . 536 
CXXVII. Last conversations and partings with Prince 

Michael, and with the Archpriest Koutnevich. 541 
CXXVIII. Last conversation and parting with M. Skreepit- 

sin 546 

CXXIX. Parting with the Priest Fortunatoff . . .549 
CXXX. Last conversation and parting with Count Prata- 

soff Last words with M. Mouravieff and M. 

Skreepitsin . . . . . . .551 

CXXXI. Return to England and Oxford . . . .555 

APPENDIX . 557 



CHAPTER I. 
Mr. Palmer contemplates a visit to Russia. 

\ Whit-Tuesday, May 21, A.D. 1839, when the 
Grand Duke Alexander of Russia came with the 
Duke of Wellington, our Chancellor, to Oxford, I, 
being then one of the Public Examiners, was invited 
to meet him ; and I presented to him in Brasenose 
College library a petition written in French, of which 
the following is a slightly abridged translation, as I 
showed it for criticism to Dr. Routh, our President, 
some words being omitted at his suggestion, as noted 
in their respective places : 

" Though it may seem presumptuous, I venture to 
present a petition to your Imperial Highness. 

" It is this : to obtain that there be sent hither some 
Russian ecclesiastic, capable of examining the theology 
of our churches. He could live in Magdalen College 
(I am authorized to say this), and I would myself teach 
him English, that so through him the contents of some 
of our best books may be made known to His Imperial 





Mr. Palmer contemplates 



Majesty and to the Bishops of the Eastern Communion. 
And, if, after a time, I should go to Russia, to study 
there the theology and the ritual of the Russian 
Church, I hope that I may obtain your Imperial High- 
ness's protection. Assuredly, if the whole Catholic 
Church ought to aspire after unity, nothing can be 
more worthy of the piety of a great prince, than to 
seek to facilitate the reunion of two Communions, 
separated only by misunderstandings and want of 
intercourse. 

"While the Catholic Church of England " 

Here the President, when I showed it to him, 
interposed : " Leave out the word ' Catholic/ sir : it 
will not be understood." 

" While the Church of England constantly defends 
the rights of Christian Sovereigns, invaded equally 
by the ambition of the Eoman Pontiff and by demo- 
cratical licentiousness, she is herself at present in 
great danger, isolated in a corner of the West, unsup- 
ported by the Civil Government and " 

" I would leave that out, sir." 

" In a corner of the West, and threatened by the 
hatred of all the Protestant sects " 

" Leave out the word ' Protestant ' " 

"Of all the sects, which have leagued with schis- 
matical Papists to overthrow her. 

"If your Imperial Highness will be pleased to 



a visit to Russia. 



favour our studies, 1 and to take an interest in the 
distress of our Churches, it will be doing a benefit to 
the cause of social order, of submission and humility in 
the West ; and at the same time, by facilitating the 
union of the Churches, your Imperial Highness will 
gladden all those who pray for the peace of Chris- 
tendom. 

" May God bless the throne of the Emperor of 
Eussia, and may all the peoples committed to him 
obey him as a father. May he never see the anarchical 
principles of heretical Protestantism coming to disturb 
his Empire and its churches ; and may it be given to 
him, on the occurrence of some just opportunity, to 
deliver the East from the yoke of the Infidels." 

" I would leave out this last sentence, sir," said Dr. 
Eouth ; " the first clause will not be understood, and 
the second will seem un-English." 

" In conclusion I again beg your Imperial Highness 
to pardon," &c., &c. 

Being at this time one of the college tutors at Mag- 
dalen, and having to lecture on the Thirty-nine Articles, 
I began a Treatise on them for the use of my pupils, 

1 [It was, I think, a few years after the date of this petition, 
that the report was circulated in Oxford that the Czar had pro- 
posed to found in the University a Professorship of Russ, but 
that nothing came of it in consequence of his stipulating that 
the appointment of professor should rest with him.] 

B 2 



Mr. Palmer contemplates 



intending to make it very different from the comments 
of Tomlin, Burnet, and Beveridge. What I wrote 
might be called an " Introduction " to them, and I 
wrote it at the end of 1839 and the beginning of 1840. 2 
It was in Latin, and read and approved by Dr. Routh, 
who at the same time suggested a number of slight 
alterations. 

The President passed over without remark what he 
found written about the Filioque^ and he especially 
commended what I said about Transubstantiation ; at 
the same time he had marked a passage, in which I 
said of the Anglican Liturgy, that in it, notwithstanding 
those changes by which it now differs from the Roman, 
" the mystioal Lamb is still truly immolated, and a 
sacrifice is offered propitiatory for the quick and for 
the dead." Turning to his mark at this page, and 
pointing with his finger to the passage, he asked, 
" What do you say to the Article, sir ? " I replied, 
" Since this is certainly the doctrine of the Fathers, 
with which the English Canon of A.D. 1571 required 

2 [Of this Latin work very few copies remain. The one I 
possess I owe to the kindness of Archdeacon Palmer. It is 
remarkable that, though the spirit and drift of Mr. Palmer's 
work is the same as that of No. 90 of the " Tracts for the Times," 
he wrote his essay a year before that tract, and I never even 
heard of the existence of his essay till his papers came into my 
hands in 1879, after his death. I knew him only as a distant 
acquaintance till the end of 1841.] 



a visit to Russia. 



all preachers to agree, 3 and with which it asserts the 
Thirty-nine Articles themselves to agree, exacting sub- 
scription to them on no other ground, they mtist, I 
suppose, be explained, and I think they may fairly be 
explained, so as to agree with the known sense of the 
Fathers and of the Church, even if in any places they 
are suspiciously or ambiguously worded." He repeated, 
" I say nothing about the doctrine, sir, but what do 
you say to the Article ? " 

On another occasion, not in connexion with my 
Essay on the Articles, he asked me, "Do the Greeks and 
Russians hold the tradition of the Assumption of the 
Blessed Virgin in the Body *? " and he added, " I doubt 
much, sir, whether that was an Apostolical Tradition. 
The Orientals have another tradition which looks much 
more like one, viz., that of the Perpetual Virginity; 
and again another, forbidding clerks in holy orders 
to marry after Ordination. Controversy apart, sir, 
it must be admitted that the Protestants have gone 
much too far on that subject. There is no autho- 

3 [It seems as if down to the year 1663 this canon was in 
force. Vide Mr. Hope Scott's Life. He writes in 1838 to a 
friend, that be had found some of the testimonials given by 
Merton College to a candidate for orders, which attest that the 
individual in question " nihil unquam, quod sciamus, aut ere- 
didit, aut tenuit nisi quod ex doctrina V. ac N. Testament! 
Catholici Patres ac veteres Episcopi collegerunt, nisi quod etiam 
ecclesia Anglicana probat et tuetur."] 



Mr. Palmer's visit to Russia. 



rity for bishops, priests, and deacons marrying after 
Ordination, nor was it allowed in the primitive Church 
even before the Council of Nice, as appears from the 
Apostolical 4 canons, which represent in general the 
discipline in force throughout the world in the second 
century." 6 

My Latin Introduction to the Thirty-nine Articles 
was printed, without being published, in the summer 
of A.D. 1840, in order that I might have copies of it to 
take with me to Eussia. 

4 [" The Greek Church, as well as the Latin accepted the 
principle, that whoever had taken holy orders before marriage, 
ought not to be married afterwards," Hefele, Counc., ii. 2, 43. 
" Non licere autem illis post ordinationem, si uxores non habent, 
matrimonium contrahere," Apost. Const, vii. 17.] 

5 [As Dr. Kouth was himself married, I would understand 
him here merely as conceding the force of an argumentum ad 
hominem as urged against the Protestant objection to the doc- 
trine of the Blessed Virgin's Assumption ; for if there is no 
early tradition for it, neither is there any tradition for, or rather 
there is an explicit or implicit tradition against, the marriage 
of persons in holy orders.] 



CHAPTER II. 
Dr. Routh sanctions the project. 

~T\R KOUTH, President of Magdalen College, who 
- L> ^ allowed me so familiarly to consult him, died in 
1855, when he was in his hundredth year. He was full of 
information about the Eevolution of 1688, almost as if 
he had lived at that time, and he was once much amused 
by a young man's asking him whether it was not true 
that he had seen Charles the Second. He answered 
laughingly, "No, sir, but I have seen a lady whose 
mother had seen Charles the Second." Charles, he 
used to say, kept himself in the saddle, because he 
knew more than those about him ; James lost his 
throne because he knew less, and was kept in igno- 
rance of the truth by those about him, and induced by 
them of set purpose to do what they knew would 
render him unpopular. He was the most ill-used man 
in his dominion. 

Dr. Routh, however, was not, as any one born in 
our century might have supposed at first from his 



Dr. Routh sanctions 



conversation, a representative of the old Jacobites and 
the old Tories, and of those Conjuring Divines who 
were ejected from their benefices after the Revolution 
of 1688. On the contrary, he was a Whig of the old 
school, and a friend of Sir Francis Burdett. 

Speaking of Sir Francis, he said that he was no 
mischievous agitator, nor traitor, nor revolutionist, but 
that there had been great abuses and great corruption, 
against which he contended in such way as he could. 

And, speaking generally, the rights of the people 
and the supremacy of the people, when advocated by 
certain great families, did not (he considered) mean all 
that was imputed by opponents, but only so much as 
might be necessary from time to time to serve the 
interest of the party, which was really oligarchical. 
As time has gone on, the two great parties have more 
than once shifted their ground, the Tories having at 
length transferred their allegiance and their ideal 
loyalty to the House of Hanover, and having taken up 
the political standing of the original Whigs, and the 
Whigs having become more and more liberal. The 
old and true maxim was, that the king could do no 
wrong ; that is, that, if he did any wrong, the minister, 
or other person who did it for him, could be accused, 
tried, and punished in the king's name ; but now the 
maxim is that the king can do nothing at all, neither 
wrong nor right, but all is to be done for him by the 



Mr. Palmer's project. 9 

man who has the ear of the House of Commons. But 
what is called the Cabinet and the office of Prime 
Minister is a super-fcetation entirely unknown to the 
Constitution. "As things are now," he sometimes 
said, " the Government may be called a disguised or 
veiled republic ; and I think, sir," (this was after the 
Reform Bill), "that I see an intention, or at least a 
tendency, to make it an undisguised republic." 

He thought that we should very likely have civil 
war over again ; and in a handsome new church built 
by his sister at Theale, near Reading, he made a 
duplicate inscription in memory of her as foundress, 
saying that thus, " when the old times came over again, 
and they take the brass to make brass cannon, there 
would hereby still remain a memorial of his sister." 

Explaining the difference between the Tories and 
the Whigs, he said that according to the Tories, one 
is to render to the king at least passive obedience ; 
even if he takes one's money or property arbitrarily, 
one may not resist him ; " but for myself," he said, 
" if any man, be he who he may, King, Lords, or 
Commons, or all of them together, attempted to take 
my money unjustly, I'd resist him, sir, if I could," 
(taking me by the button), "I'd resist him." 1 

1 [Mr. Palmer was very successful in bis imitation of Dr.Routh's 
manner. It is necessary to have known the latter to enter fully 
into these and the following striking reminiscences of him.] 



io Dr. Routh sanctions the project. 

July 4, 1840. Having obtained Dr. Routh's appro- 
bation of my plan of going to Russia, I consulted him 
further, whether, while living in Russia (I wished to 
go to Kieff, as the cradle of Russian Christianity), I 
ought voluntarily to separate myself from the Russian 
Church, or rather seek the communion from the local 
Bishop. He approved of my rather seeking the com- 
munion, saying also at the same time, " It will lead 
to nothing, I fear, sir, for a separation there un- 
happily is ; but it will show that there are some 
among us who wish it were otherwise." He added 
that he was not aware that we had ever by any public 
or synodical act renounced the communion of the 
Eastern Church, or that our churches had ever been 
excommunicated by name by the Eastern. And 
towards the end of the reign of Peter the Great, there 
was a correspondence between certain of the non- 
juring British Bishops and the Greek Patriarch, which 
was carried on through the Russian Synod with the 
knowledge and favour of Peter ; and, even after the 
Greek Patriarch had sent an ultimatum, closing the 
correspondence, Peter caused the Russian Synod to 
write desiring that it might be continued. But at his 
death, in 1725, it was dropped. 



CHAPTER III. 
Difficulties with Magdalen College. 

. EOUTH offered to propose at a college 
meeting that the Society (i.e. the college), 
should give me a letter of recommendation, a form for 
which he bade me draw up in Latin ; and this, after 
he had altered it to his mind, he caused to be en- 
grossed on parchment. But on Monday, July 27, 
when at the college meeting this letter was read, and 
the President proposed that the college seal should be 
set to it, one of the Fellows, Mr. Sibthorpe, rose, and 
in a tone of excitement said, " I protest, Mr. President, 
I protest against this Society giving any encourage- 
ment to the idea of intercommunion with the idolatrous 
Greek Church." And the Vice-President, with one 
or two others, having joined in his opposition, the 
President, saying with a smile, " Unity, gentlemen, is 
very desirable," put the parchment aside, and was pro- 
ceeding to other business, when one of the objectors 
suggested that the college should give me instead a 



12 Mr. Palmer s difficulties 

certificate of leave of absence for purposes of study in 
Russia, and this was done. 

The same day, after the meeting, the President sent 
for me to his house, and said, " I should be sorry, 
sir, that you should go to Russia with only that 
meagre document, i.e. the certificate ; and, though I 
did not think it desirable to press the matter at the 
meeting, unless it could be done with unanimity, there 
is nothing to prevent my giving you, in my own name, 
any letter I please." And, so saying, he gave me back 
the parchment which had been read at the College 
meeting with some abbreviations and alterations 
marked upon it, that I might get it engrossed afresh ; 
after which he would send it after me by the post to 
London. 

" I think, sir," he said, " that I could find prece- 
dents for what I am doing, but in strictness, such 
letters ought to be from a Bishop." And, when I 
replied that in London I might probably see the 
Archbishop of Canterbury, and could ask him if he 
would countersign or otherwise authorize the letter, he 
desired me to do so by all means. Also, on hearing 
that I had declined introductions, which had been 
offered to me to English residents in Petersburg, 
and in particular one to our ambassador, Lord Clan- 
ricarde, and that I hoped to go on at once to Kieff, 
Dr. Routh bade me on no account decline the intro- 



with Magdalen College. 1 3 

duction to our ambassador. " That," he said, " is 
very likely to be useful, especially in such a country 
as Russia :" in consequence I obtained this introduc- 
tion. 

The letter of commendation, as altered and to be 
given to me by the President, was in English as 
follows : 

"To all faithful believers in Christ, to whom these 
letters may come, wishing grace, health, and salvation. 
Whereas it has been signified to me that one of our 
fellows William Palmer, Master of Arts and Student 
in Theology, and Deacon in Holy Orders, desires to go 
to Russia for ecclesiastical studies, I, approving and en- 
couraging his desire, do, by these present letters, sanc- 
tion his undertaking. I wish him, after asking per- 
mission of the most potent and religious Emperor, if 
the piety of the Emperor grants his request, to present 
himself with all reverence to the Russian Bishops, and 
especially to the Most Holy Spiritual Synod, that by 
their favour and protection he may become acquainted 
with the doctrines, rites, and ceremonies of the Russian 
Church, and may learn the Russian language, either in 
some Spiritual Academy or elsewhere, as may be judged 
most convenient. 

"Further, I ask, and even adjure in the name of 
Christ, all the most holy Archbishops and Bishops, 
and especially the Synod itself, that they will examine 



14 Mr. Palmer's difficulties 

him as to the orthodoxy of his faith with a charitable 
mind, and, if they find in him all that is necessary to 
the integrity of the true and saving faith, then that 
they will also admit him to communion in the Sacra- 
ments. 

" I would have him submit and conform himself in 
all things to the injunctions and admonitions of the 
Russian Bishops, only neither affirming anything, nor 
doing anything, contrary to the faith and doctrine of 
the British Churches. 

" To these letters I willingly affix my name and 
seal this fourth day of August, in the year of Christ, 
1840. 

"MARTIN JOSEPH ROUTH, President 

of St. Mary Magdalen College in 
the University of Oxford" 

Our ambassador to the Court of Russia, Lord Clan- 
ricarde, being then in London, gave me several letters 
of introduction to persons living at Petersburg, 
especially one to the Count Pratasoff, Ober Prokuror 
(High Procurator) of the most holy Governing Synod ; 
and another to M. de Barante, the French Ambas- 
sador. "You will be surprised," Lord Clanricarde 
said, " to see a General of Hussars in his uniform, an 
aide-de-camp of the Emperor, presiding in the Synod, 
directing the Bishops, and governing the Church." 



with Magdalen College. 1 5 

Later, when I was in Kussia, I heard a story of the 
Grand Duke Michael, brother of the Emperor, while 
conversing with some officers of his suite, on the ap- 
proach of the Count Pratasoff, saying, "Here comes 
our Patriarch." 



CHAPTER IV. 
Difficulties with the Primate. 

Saturday, August 1, I told the Archbishop of 
Canterbury, Dr. Howley, what Dr. Eouth (for 
whom he expressed the greatest respect) had done for 
me, and he said that he would willingly countersign Dr. 
Routh's letter. On Wednesday, the 5th, having received 
it from Dr. Routh that morning, I took it to Lambeth 
to the Archbishop's chaplain for the Archbishop's 
signature, leaving with him at the same time a copy of 
my Latin Introduction to the Thirty-nine Articles, 
not to be given then to the Archbishop, but that it 
might be at hand in case of any question arising in 
Russia out of my application to be admitted to com- 
munion, which might make it proper to refer to the 
living authorities of our Church as supposing, for 
instance, it was objected that I was putting on our 
Articles a sense which did not properly belong to 
them. 

This was on the 5th. Next day the chaplain wrote 



Difficulties with the Primate. 17 

to me from Lambeth that the Archbishop, after read- 
ing Dr. Kouth's letter, did not feel able to put his 
name to any such document. He would not indeed 
refuse to give me letters commendatory as to a person 
going on a visit of inquiry, such as both his Grace and 
the Bishop of London had given recently to Mr. 
Tomlinson (and such indeed as they gave a year or 
two later to the Anglo-Prussian Bishop Alexander of 
Jerusalem), but the Archbishop would altogether ob- 
ject to a clergyman of our Church offering himself for 
that kind of examination to the Bishops and Clergy 
of the Russian Church, with a view of joining, if per- 
mitted, their communion. 

This letter took me to Lambeth again. In a con- 
versation with the Archbishop's chaplain I assured him 
that I proposed to offer myself to no other kind of 
examination in Russia than such as every stranger who 
offers himself at all to communion must necessarily 
undergo even in England ; that according to ' the 
Rubric, even parishioners are required to give notice 
before communion to the curate, which implies an 
opportunity of his questioning them ; that it was far 
from my intention to ask the Archbishop to endorse 
my anonymous Introduction to the Thirty-nine Arti- 
cles, or to commit himself to any special approval of 
the opinions or acts of an individual traveller. All 
that I desired was, in truth, a certificate that Dr. 

o 



1 8 Difficulties 



Routh and the bearer of Dr. Routh's letters are in 
communion with the Church of England and with its 
Primate. 

All this I wished to be reported to the Archbishop, 
expecting to receive from him such certificate as he 
might be willing to give ; but hearing nothing further 
for several days, I left London for Petersburg on the 
night between the llth and 12th instant, by the route 
of Hamburg, Lubeck, and Cronstadt. 

However, the Archbishop did not eventually leave 
my letter without an answer. It was gained in the 
following way. Immediately before leaving London 
I wrote to my father an account of what had taken 
place about my journey. I told him of the President's 
formal letter and of the College's leave of foreign 
travel, and then of the Archbishop's disliking to 
countersign Dr. Eouth's document, or even to certify 
that the President and myself were in communion 
with the Church of England, thinking that such an 
act might be understood in Russia to make him a party 
to all my proceedings; an anticipation, which was 
doubtless increased by my having drawn up a Latin 
statement of the sense in which I understood our 
Articles. I went on to say that the Archbishop, as 
his chaplain assured me, did not mean to express any 
disapproval of the step I was about to take, but only 
was disinclined to become in any way responsible for 



with the Primate. 19 

it himself. As it is, my Letters of Orders, signed by 
the Bishop of Oxford, and the two letters of the 
College and of the President, would, I supposed, be 
proof enough that I belong to the Church of England, 
and that I have the approbation of my immediate 
superiors in what I do. Of course I must take care 
to make it understood that my statement of doctrine 
expresses merely my own personal interpretation of our 
Articles, and that if in anything it seems to misrepre- 
sent their sense, or the doctrine of our Church, I 
submit it to the judgment of her living authorities. 

On receipt of this letter, my father put it into the 
hands of Mrs. Howley, who was a connexion of 
his, and she read it to the Archbishop. In this 
way I learnt that his Grace was much pleased with it, 
and wished my father to know that " he considered 
my success as standing a much better chance without 
his signature, as no suspicion could attach to an indi- 
vidual acting independently, but if authorized by his 
Grace, it might excite alarm. His declining, therefore, 
to sign the paper, she said, was a matter of caution 
equally beneficial to both parties." My father added 
that I had created an interest and left a favourable 
impression behind me at Lambeth. This letter he 
wrote on September 12th, and I received it at 
Petersburg. 



c 2 



CHAPTER V. 
Mr. Palmer on his way to Petersburg. 

A UGUST6, O.S. [N.S. 18.]. On board the Alex- 
^"^- andra steamer in the Gulf of Finland, passing 
along the coast of Livonia and Esthonia, conquered by 
Peter the Great from the Swedes ; passing Eevel and 
Narva, and approaching Cronstadt. 

It was before Narva, at the commencement of the 
Swedish war in 1700, that Peter's army had been 
utterly destroyed by Charles XII. ; but four years 
later, on August 9th, 1704, Narva was taken by 
Peter. " On the 9th," says a letter dated the 17th, 
and written from Narva after its capture, " Kongodiev, 
a separately fortified part of Narva, was taken by as- 
sault in three quarters of an hour two stone fortified 
precincts, and a third of earth, extremely strong and 
rich, and admirably well-built. In the two stone towns 
there is no wooden building whatever. The streets, 
too, are all paved with stone. In Eussia there is 
nothing like it, except at Moscow." This was a year 
and three months after the first occupation of the site 



Mr. Palmer on his Journey. 2 1 

of Petersburg. "On the 16th of May, 1703," says 
Solovieff, " on one of the small islands of the mouth of 
the Neva, a little below the site of Kantsi, there was 
heard the sound of the axe, and they began to erect a 
small wooden town. This small town was Petersburg, 
the capital of the new Kussian Empire. Muscovy was 
no more " (Hist. voL xiv. p. 349). 

Peter's idea at that time, as expressed in his own 
words, was to found a Russian Amsterdam. He had 
not as yet formed the design of making his new city 
the capital. On the 16th of May that year, the feast 
of Pentecost, or of the Trinity, they began to found the 
fortress of Petersburg, a wooden church of SS. Peter 
and Paul, four lines of houses for the commandant and 
his soldiers, and a small house of only two rooms and 
a kitchen for Peter himself, and one much larger for 
Menshikoff, in which the Tsar was to give banquets 
and to hold councils. Forty thousand labourers were 
set to work The house of Menshikoff in the Vassili 
Ostroff, the church of the Trinity (Troitski sobar) near 
to Peter's own small house, and the fortress of Cron- 
.stadt with its double harbour on the Isle of Kronslot, 
at the mouth of the gulf, date from 1710. In 1712 
the Governing Senate (instituted February 22nd, 1711), 
at first consisting of eight members, was partially trans- 
ferred to Petersburg. 

Thus Peter began his new Muscovy; he had no 



Mr. Palmer 



pleasant associations with, the old. In time of the 
Tsar Alexis Michaelovich, and remaining till the reign 
of the Empress Elizabeth (when it was destroyed by 
fire), there was at Moscow a suburban palace, named 
from its church Preobrajensk, or "the Transfigura- 
tion," and there, after the events of May, 1682, the 
great Peter, Peter Alexievich, was kept by his half- 
sister, the Regent Sophia, at a distance from the court, 
and left purposely without suitable instructors. He lived 
with his mother, Natalia Cyrillowna, became a " street- 
boy," and amused himself with playing at soldiers. 
On the outskirts of Moscow, to the same direction with 
Preobrajensk, there was a suburb called Koukou or 
Nalivaiki (Drinkborough), inhabited by Germans and 
other foreigners, chiefly Protestants, and Peter, passing 
through this suburb whenever he went into the city or 
returned, was brought more and more into contact with 
the foreigners. When he began to play at soldiers, he 
accepted all who offered themselves, noblemen and 
stable-boys, native Russians and externs, orthodox 
Christians and Protestants, or infidels, all alike. He 
became more and more intimate with the inhabitants 
of Koukou, took a liking to their free and easy manner, 
and especially to their beer and tobacco, and to their 
material civilization. 

Gradually his playfellows grew up into two regi- 
ments of guards devoted to his person, and imbibed his 



on his Journey. 23 



anti-Russian ideas, were drilled after the German 
fashion, officered in part by foreigners, and named, from 
his suburban residence and from another neighbouring 
locality, the Preobrajensky and the Semenovsky regi- 
ments or polks. Thus he became a power, and was 
able to put down his sister Sophia (who saw her 
danger when it was too late), to exterminate the Strelsi 
(the janizzaries of the former Tsars), to subject the 
nobles and the clergy, no less than the peasants, to his 
absolute will, in a word, to transform, metamorphose, 
or transfigure his country, both civilly and religiously, 
destroying the old Muscovy which hated and loathed 
him as an impious, semi-pagan, and unnatural monster, 
creating a new Russia with its new capital and new 
borrowed materialistic civilization, which has given to 
him the title of " The Great " Emperor or Tsar, and 
Father of his country, which has hitherto worshipped 
him as a demi-god. When he was in England (January 
10th to April 28th, 1698), and had conversation with 
English bishops, one of them indeed, Burnet, described 
him as a furious man, in fact, a savage ; but one of the 
national poets of his new civilization sings, " He was 
a god, he was thy god, Russia ! descending to thee 
from the realms above." l As I was coming up the 

i [Mr. Palmer has added here at a later date, that " the last 
public official celebration of his apotheosis was on May 30, 1871, 
the bicentenary of his birth."- 



24 Mr. Palmer on 7tis Journey. 

Gulf of Finland, and approaching Cronstadt on the 18th 
of August, that is the 6th o.s., 1840, it was the 
festival of the Preobrajensky regiment and of its 
church, which stands in an enclosure surrounded by 
trees, and by cannon captured from the Turks ; and 
the same festival, the Transfiguration, is continued 
during eight days till the 13th, which is the octave. 



CHAPTER VI. 
He arrives at Petersburg. 

ON our arrival off Cronstadt at 11 a.m., on Wed- 
nesday, August 7th [N.S. 19], the steamer 
was boarded by the police and custom-house officers, 
and with a boat's crew of rough, hard, brown-faced, 
shaven men, in long, brown greatcoats. In other boats 
which came alongside, we saw, as we looked down over 
the ship's side, blue Kaftans, and merchants with mag- 
nificent beards. The passports of the passengers were 
given up, and examined in the cabin, and the passen- 
gers themselves were all questioned very minutely, one 
by one. When at length this tedious inquest was over, 
and the greater part of the officials had left us, we 
went between the batteries, by which the Isle of Cron- 
stadt, or Kronslot, is surrounded, having on our left, as 
we passed, first the pier and the commercial port with 
its forest of masts, and then the naval port, with some 
thirty great men-of-war, many of them three-deckers. 
The granite fortifications looked strong, and the ap- 



26 His arrival 



proach towards Petersburg afterwards was striking. 
The water, though the navigable channels might be 
narrow, was of great width, and, looking towards the 
shore of the mainland, on our right we saw rocks just 
high enough to diversify the scenery, with the build- 
ings of Oranienbaum and others, and dark lines of trees. 
On the other side, towards the left, and in front, the 
city itself, in very bright colours and of great extent, 
seeming, though still far off, to rise immediately out of 
the water. When we were eight or ten miles distant, 
we ran aground upon a mud-bank, and lay some three 
hours, without any awning under a burning sun, till a 
smaller steamer came from Cronstadt, and took us on 
board. 

At length we saw distinctly rising before us in the 
distance one great cupola (that of the unfinished church 
of St. Isaac), and presently four lesser cupolas round it, 
all gilt and flashing brightly in the sun, and several 
other large churches, with five, or even more domes 
each, with a bell-tower perhaps besides, unlike anything 
to be seen in the West ; some of the domes, as those of 
St. Catherine's Institute, were of a pale green, others 
of a bright copper-colour. Those of the Trinity Church 
(the church of vthe Semenoffsky regiment of the guards) 
were of a bright blue, studded with stars of gold. 
The tall, slender, gilt spires (slender as a thread and 
gleaming in the sky) of the Admiralty, and of St. 



at Petersburg. 27 



Peter and St. Paul in the fortress, especially the latter, 
attracted my attention. As we came nearer, trees and 
lines of building were reflected upside down in the 
water along the shores. 

While gazing on this scene, we made a turn to the 
left, and found ourselves almost at once in the heart of 
the city, alongside of a magnificent granite quay, with 
rows of palace-like buildings, of light, cheerful tints on 
either side of the greater Neva, which is here a clear, 
flowing stream of noble width. The whole river is 
divided into four chief streams, called the Great and 
Little Neva, and the Greater and the Less Nevka, which 
encompass and divide from one another a number of 
islands ; but we saw only the Greater Neva, having on 
our right, ahead of us, the Admiralty, and beyond it the 
Winter Palace and part of the city, and on our left the 
Vassili-OstrofF (i.e. the Island of Basil), and beyond it, 
ahead of us, the islet of the fortress, and the Peters- 
burg Island, or Side, as it is called. The channel on 
which we were is somewhat too wide to allow of the 
quays and buildings on both sides to be seen at once to 
full advantage. Immediately ahead of us, when we 
stopped, there was a bridge of boats (the stone bridge 
not being yet begun). Opposite the landing-place there 
were drawn up, as if friends were expecting some of the 
passengers, carriages with four horses, and immensely 
long traces, a bearded coachman on the box, and a boy 



28 His arrival 



riding one of the leaders. Similar equipages drove past 
at a rapid pace, the boy screaming in a shrill tone to all 
to get out of the way. Droshkies too, that is, padded 
boards on four wheels, with a seat for the driver in 
front, and rests for the feet of the passenger like flat 
stirrups on either side, were standing to be hired, or 
passing in numbers. These open, rough vehicles, which 
well deserve their name of Droslikies (i.e. Shakers), 
afford no protection against either dust or rain. A man 
mounts them, and rides astride behind the driver, as if 
on horseback, but a woman or any second passenger sits 
sideways, and holds on as it were to a pommel. The 
horse has a high wooden arch rising from the ends of 
the shafts over his head, called a donga, under which 
he tosses his head freely. To these dongas and to the 
horse's head-gear bells are attached, so that there is a 
great jingling, useful no doubt in the winter when the 
sledges glide noiselessly and rapidly over the snow. 
The dresses of the ladies in the carriages probably came 
from Paris, but the blue Kaftans of the coachman and 
outriders, and of multitudes of other people on foot, 
with red, blue, or yellow sashes and caps, intermixed 
with peasants in sheep-skins (all with beards), private 
soldiers (these without beards), in long grey or brown 
cloaks, and numerous officers in all sorts of uniforms 
and plumes, with now and then a Circassian, or some- 
thing else unmistakably Oriental, made a scene striking 



at Petersburg. 29 



enough to one who came for the first time direct from 
London. 

One was struck especially by these points of con- 
trast : the blue, cloudless sky ; the clear, broad river ; 
the quays, lined with palaces ; the clean, lively tints of 
the buildings, without a trace of smoke or soot ; the 
vast places comparatively empty, instead of crowded 
thoroughfares ; while of the people visible few com- 
paratively were women, and every third man seemed 
to be a soldier. 

When we had moored alongside of the English 
Quay a number of police officers came on board and 
took possession of the cabin, where they seated them- 
selves at a table, called in the passengers one by one, 
and questioned them, repeating the whole inquest to 
which we had already been subjected at Cronstadt. 
They asked, " Of what Government are you a subject 1 
of what confession of faith ? of what profession or 
quality ? how old ? what is your object in coming to 
Russia ? to whom have you letters *? where are you 
going to live or lodge 1 " the passport being examined 
at the same time. 

I said that I was of the Orthodox or Catholic Re- 
ligion, and a deacon : that I came for ecclesiastical 
study ; and that I had letters to the Ober-Prokuror of 
the Synod, and to some others. However, seeing I was 
described in my passport as " le Reverend " they wrote 



3O His arrival at Petersburg. 

me down a Prediger or Pastor of the Anglican Eef onned 
or Luthero-Calvinistic confession of faith ; so at least 
I was described in my carte de sejour, which was 
printed in Euss, French, and German. 

All my books (and I had brought a good many) were 
put together at the Custom House, and sent to the 
censors, from whom I did not recover them till twelve 
weeks after. 

It was already evening when I found myself esta- 
blished in a lodging-house kept by two ladies with 
English names, a house not licensed as an hotel, but 
connived at for the convenience of English and 
American captains and traders ; it is in the Galernaia, 
a long street parallel to the English Quay. 



CHAPTER VII. 
His first walk in Petersburg. 

mHUKSDAY, August 8 [o.s.], 20 [N.S.]. About 
-^ four, and on to five a.m., the bells of different 
churches were going with a gong-like, booming sound. 
I rose and took my first walk in Petersburg. 

Passing along the Galernaia, I issued out from under 
an arch at its further end into the Isaac's Plain, 
bounded on the side opposite to me by one of the sides 
of the huge Admiralty with its gilt spire ; to the left 
of me by the Neva, with the Vassili Ostroff and the 
island of the fortress, with its still loftier and gilt 
spire; and to the right by the church of St. Isaac, 
Hegumen or head of a Dalmatian monastery in the time 
of Valens and Theodosius, whose feast-day, May 30, 
is the birthday of the Tsar Peter. This church, though 
still surrounded by scaffolding, showed its magnificent 
dark-coloured polished columns, monoliths, forty feet 
high, at each of the four fronts of the Greek cross ; 
and others of the same material encircled the cylin- 



32 His first walk 



drical wall, from which, the central cupola rises 
above. 

Turning round and looking back, I saw on each side 
of the archway under which I had just passed, and 
which by it were united to each other above, two hand- 
some blocks of building or palaces, with stairs leading 
up to each, and inscriptions on their fronts, showing 
that the one on the right was for the use of the 
Governing Senate or Council of State, and the one on 
the left for the use of the most Holy Governing Synod. 
The similarity of the two buildings suits well the idea 
and intention of Peter, who instituted the Spiritual 
Kollegium, to which he gave the name of Synod, and 
then the Patriarchal title of Most Holy, in order to its 
being on a footing of an exact equality with the 
Senate. 

. But the object of most interest in the Isaac plain is 
the bronze equestrian statue of Peter, the work of Fal- 
conet, with the laconic and pregnant inscription on it, 
Petro Primo, Catharina Secunda. It is certainly a fine 
group. His horse is rearing on a huge block of Fin- 
nish granite. He faces the water, as he ought to do. 
He has made his way, in spite of all obstacles, to the 
sea ; he has Schusselborg and the Ladoga on his right 
and Cronstadt and the Baltic on his left ; his right arm 
is raised as if he bade the fortress and the church of 
St. Peter and St. Paul, his own small dwelling, and 



in Petersburg. 33 



the church of the Holy Trinity, and the city which 
was to grow up around them, to start into existence. 

Of three long streets, called prospeJcts, which converge 
towards the Admiralty, the Nefsky runs 1 from the 
winter palace down to the Lavra or monastery of St. 
Alexander. This is the chief street of all Petersburg, 
answering to the most fashionable of the Boulevards of 
Paris. With broad trottoirs on either side, and the usual 
rough pavements in the middle, it has also a double 
line of carriage-way paved with hexagonal blocks of 
wood. The houses, which in general are not more 
than two or three stories high, are all built of brick 
in great blocks, with from eight to twenty or more 
windows in a row, and with stucco fronts coloured with 
a pleasing variety of light tints. Two peculiar features 
are these ; below, the projection of light porches, 
supported by very slender rods or columns with flat 
roofs, from many of the houses across the footway ; 
and above, the frequency of awnings to the windows, 
capable of being taken in, like the wings of an insect, 
or thrust out at pleasure. Long rows of letters, often 
of great size, of different lengths, and at different 
heights, coloured or gilt, with the names or advertise- 
ments of the occupiers of each house or story, and 
large window-boards painted with all the wares of 

1 [Three English miles in length, and nearly in a straight line.] 

D 



34 His first walk 



the dealer within, make up in some degree for the 
comparative little show there is of glass shop- 
windows. 

The Grand Prince Alexander Garoslavich (father of 
Daniel, who first raised the city and appanage princi- 
pality of Moscow to importance) was sumamed Nefsky 
from his victories gained on the banks of the Neva 
over the Swedes in 1241, when he was yet only Prince 
of Novgorod, while his father Garoslaff reigned as 
Grand Prince under the Tartars at Vladimir. For the 
sake of this historical association, after Peter had re- 
conquered from the Swedes these regions, the relics of 
St. Alexander were translated hither from Vladimir on 
August 30, 1724, fourteen ye.ars after Peter had first 
marked the site for the convent and seminary, and had 
laid the foundation there of a church of the Holy 
Trinity. Here was placed St. Alexander ; and, with 
the distinctive title of Nefsky, he became one of the 
patron saints of the new capital, or rather the special 
patron, from the presence of his relics ; though the 
church of the fortress, the first founded, was dedicated 
to St. Peter and St. Paul in connexion with the name 
and origin of Petersburg itself. The Nefsky Prospekt 
ends with St. Alexander's Lavra ; here the Metro- 
politan Seraphim resides. Here, within its precincts, 
separated by a passage and a door locked up at night, 
is the Spiritual Academy and the Seminary. Here, in 



in Petersburg. 35 



its cemetery, many of the nobility and of the wealthier 
citizens are buried, and more than one of the last de- 
scendants of the Komanoff line. 

Going along the Nefsky Prospekt I soon came to a 
church, shown by its inscription, "Deo et Servatori 
sacrum," to belong to the Dutch, Swiss, and French 
Calvinists ; then to another, of the Lutheran Germans. 
This was founded by Peter himself, at the request of 
some of his foreigners, at the same time that he founded 
on the Viborg side the Russian church of St. Sam- 
son, who is commemorated on the 27th June in honour 
of the victory of Poltava. Then I came to the church 
of the Poles and other Roman Catholics, subjects of 
the Empire or strangers. This is held by Dominican 
fathers, and a little beyond this there is a church of 
the Armenians, not far off, but not in the same street, 
but in the Koninshnaia. There is a church also of 
the Lutheran Finns. All these are churches of a cer- 
tain size and appearance, and in consequence of their 
presenting themselves one after another in the principal 
street of the city, the street itself has sometimes been 
called jocosely, " la rue de la tolerance" In fact the 
subjects of the conquered provinces, whose religion has 
been guaranteed to them, and strangers, are more than 
tolerated ; they are often liberally assisted by the 
Government. But none of these churches exist for 
native Russians ; nor can their ministers receive prose- 
D 2 



36 His first walk in Petersburg. 

lytes from the Eussian Church. If they did, they 
would be expelled the country : and any member of 
the Russian Church joining another communion incurs 
the penalty of civil death. On the other hand, 
members of the tolerated communions may, if they 
comply with certain forms, be received as proselytes 
from one to another ; and the Russian Church may re- 
ceive proselytes from them all. The children, too, of 
all mixed marriages must be bred up as members of the 
dominant Church. Nevertheless, in spite of this se- 
verity of the laws, there are millions of native Russian 
schismatics called Raskolniki. 



CHAPTER VI I L 
The Kazan Church. 

the side opposite to these tolerated churches 
one finds the Kazanski Sobor, so called from an 
icon (picture) of the B. Virgin brought from Kazan. At 
present this is the chief church of Petersburg; but 
the Isaaski Sobor, when finished, will supplant it. The 
Russian name Sobor, often mistranslated cathedral, 
means rather a collegiate church (the catholicon of the 
Greeks, or church of the general assemblies) than a 
cathedral properly so-called ; and even the chief Sobor 
is not necessarily connected with the residence of a 
bishop, who always lives in a monastery. The name 
Sobor in Russ, besides the chief churches in monas- 
teries, designates also all such churches as have a 
number of priests attached to them. 

The Kazanski Sobor, which I visited about a quarter 
past five p.m., where the vespers were already over, has a 
semicircle colonnade, said to have been suggested by that 
before St. Peter's at Rome, fronting towards the Nef sky 



38 The Kazan Church. 

Prospekt, and attached at its centre to the north transept, 
through which is the chief entrance. The church itself 
extends lengthways behind this colonnade, parallel with 
the street. It is always open, which the lesser churches 
are not ; and the hours, at least at this time of the 
year, for the vespers, the matins, and the liturgy (i.e. 
the mass services) are said to be four p.m., four a.m., 
and ten a.m. 

Before great festivals and Sundays (and at other 
times the same may be done for convenience) the Great 
Vespers and Matins are usually sung together over- 
night, and the whole is then called 'AypvTma, i. e. the 
vigil service. This is the custom in summer, when the 
days are long. 

This church is 204 feet long, 156 wide, and inside 
to the top of the central cupola 156 high ; but outside 
its height is nearly 200. It has been compared to that 
built by Justinian at Bethlehem, since, like it, it is in 
the form of the Latin Cross ; and has outside double 
rows of splendid granite columns, between fifty and 
sixty in all, and about thirty feet high, with bronze 
Corinthian capitals. The eye, however, misses over 
them that upper wall, pierced with round-topped win- 
dows, which ought to support the flat roof of a basilica ; 
and the roof, lying immediately upon the columns, looks 
ill. 

There was a square, carpeted platform, rising by one 



The Kazan Church. 39 

or two steps under the dome towards the nave, where 
the bishop vests and sits in the midst of the people 
when he is officiating and when he is not within the 
altar. The Oltdr or sanctuary is separated from the 
body of the church by a great screen, running across 
the apse, and called the iconosta&is or stand for icons, 
in the middle of which are three doors. In front 
before the screen there is a narrow space, a step or two 
higher than the pavement of the church, and on a level 
with that of the sanctuary within. On this the people 
were going up to kiss the icons, with which, and with 
gilding, the whole face of the screen was covered. In 
front there was a balustrade of solid silver, taken by 
the French from Moscow in 1812, and recovered by 
the Kozaks during their retreat. There are steps of 
Siberian malachite. The doors into the sanctuary are 
also of solid silver ; the large lamps, too, which are 
before the large icons, are all of silver. 

The special icon of this church is our Lady of Kazan, 
sheathed, like the rest, in drapery of silver gilt, and 
covered with jewels distinguished from those of the 
other icons by their greater number, size, and value. 
The iconostasis extends across the whole of the east of 
the church ; and has in it, on either side of the 
great sanctuary, two other sets of three doors, opening 
into two side apses or lesser sanctuaries. This arrange- 
ment allows of additional liturgies (masses) in the 



4O The Kazan Church. 

same church on the same day, the rule being that on 
the same altar, and on the same day not more than 
one liturgy can be celebrated. 

The part of the church west of the great cupola had 
comparatively little ornament, though there were in 
it some icons. But from the roof, from the columns, 
and in the aisles, from the side walls, there hung many 
bunches of keys, keys of captured towns and fortresses, 
beginning with those of Azoff, taken in 1696, and 
many torn and faded flags taken in different wars from 
the Swedes, the Persians, the Turks, and the French, 
and from other enemies. Above, round the dome, 
there were bas-reliefs, as also on the outer door of the 
church. On the west wall I saw a flat tablet, recording 
the foundation of the church by the Emperor Alex- 
ander ; the design, however, of founding it originated 
with his father the Emperor Paul. 

There was no bemtier of holy water at the entrance, 
such as there is in Roman Catholic churches, nor any 
seats whatever, nor was there that appearance of the 
church being used for recollection and meditation, or 
for reading devotional books, or for private prayer, or 
for visiting and adoring the Blessed Sacrament, which 
strikes one in the West of Europe. At the same 
time the separation of the sanctuary, its richly orna- 
mented screen, and the severe supernatural expression 
of the older icons, made on one an impression of 



The Kazan Church. 4 1 

mystery and awe. There was an abundance of pious 
gesticulations, bowing and crossing, kissing the icons, 
prostrating and touching the ground with the forehead 
(sometimes with an audible thump), and bowing and 
crossing again and again, and by men, young and old, 
as well as by women ; and small slender waxlights 
were bought within the door at a sort of counter, and 
lighted and set up to burn (as if in the name, a 
I' intention, of those who had set them up), on the 
great mannalia (candelabra) which stand in front of 
the iconostasis, and which have a sort of platform 
round the base, that is, of the great candles, with a 
multitude of little sockets and spikes, for fixing the 
candles offered by private devotion. There were a 
good many poor in and about the church, and beggars 
at the doors, to whom those passing in and out gave 
kopecks freely. One day when I went again, my 
droshky-driver at the door of the church gave me back 
a kopeck from his fare, saying, " to set up a candle ;" 
that so, as he was unable to leave his horse, his prayer 
might be represented by his candle. 

The impression made by this church on the whole 
was that of great splendour and magnificence, and of 
neatness too. That made on me (on this my first visit) 
by the outward devotion of the people was one of 
wonder, curiosity, suspicion, and a certain repugnance 
(all being so contrary to English habits, and going 



42 The Kazan Cktirch. 

far beyond those of Roman Catholics), mixed at 
the same time with respect for the simplicity and 
reverence, and for the almsgiving, with which they 
were joined. 



CHAPTER IX. 
Table-talk at the lodging-house. 

\ UGUST 8 [o.s.]. At dinner at the English 
lodging-house some one observed, "Nearly every 
other day here is a festival. Tuesday last, August 6, 
was a great festival, the day on which they bless the 
apples * Vinograd,' that is grapes, is the word ; but 
there being no grapes they bless apples instead." 
" Yes," said another, " they won't eat nor sell the 
apples, till the priests have blessed them. When they 
build a house they put a cross in it, and have it 
blessed. They bless the river with a procession, and 
with great pomp, on the 1st of August, as well as 
on the 6th of January." "At Moscow," Mr. S. 
informed us, " before the Nickolsky Gate of the 
Kremlin, there is a picture of the Virgin for which a 
carriage is kept, and it is sent to the sick who apply 
for it ; and they pay well for having it sent to them. 
On its return they hold it up over their heads that the 
people passing under may take a blessing from it. 



44 Table-talk 



There is a monastery at Moscow," he continued, " of 
about twenty-four monks, the Novospass, which is 
famous for its good singing. The Archimandrite of 
that monastery found a small picture, which he sent 
here, and obtained that it should be authenticated by 
the Synod. Then he set it up with a box for offerings 
under it, and raised a sum of 40,000?. sterling, which he 
spent in building a bell-tower higher than that of Ivan 
Yeliki, the highest, in fact, of all that are now at 
Moscow. Having had such success, he found another 
picture, but they sent him word that one was enough." 
Englishmen here, who want to learn Russ, go into 
the country. Mr. N". went into a village, and was 
taught by the pope. Mr. T., the other day, asked 
for the " Angliski pope" and so got directed to Mr. 
Law, the chaplain of the factory. Our landlady 
observed, "He ought to have asked for the 'Angliski 
pastor: " 

" The Russians," she said good-naturedly, " have a 
good deal of religion in their way ; but they are very 
superstitious. They are very ignorant, and it would 
be a good thing if they were taught to read and write. 
If they want to be heard in their prayers they stick 
up a candle." Her Russian servants, she said, go to the 
liturgy (mass) at ten a.m. on alternate Sundays ; and 
sometimes they go out at three or four o'clock in the 
morning to the Matins (i. e. during the winter) return- 



at the lodging-house. 45 



ing at six or seven. Both the Liturgy and the Vigil 
services last about two hours, and a great many of the 
Eussians go to church on weekdays as well as on 
Sundays and festivals. There is a church in every 
Government office and institution, even, for instance, 
in the establishment for training the actors, singers, 
and dancers of the Court Theatre; and the people 
attached to any s\ich office or institution commonly 
attend the services in its church. On state holidays 
they are even expected to attend. 

The church-bells are struck by men who go up to 
them into the tower ; they are not rung as ours are in 
England. They have a booming sound, and, when 
many of different sizes are sounding together, their 
deep roar and clang, mixed with sharper and lighter 
tones, is grand and musical. " They sound the bells," 
she said, " twice ; not only before the beginning 
of the service, but also in the middle of it." She 
meant at the consecration in the Liturgy ; a custom 
now universal in Russia, but borrowed originally, like 
the Te Deum and the Indicative form of Absolution, 
from the Uniats 1 and the Poles of Little Russia. 

" Their fasts," our landlady said, " are very strict, 
which is hard upon the poor, for meat here is cheap, 
fourpence a pound, but vegetables and fish are dear. 

1 [About the Uniates, vide infra, chapters xii., xiii.] 



46 Table-talk 



Fish is fivepence a pound. It costs our washerwoman 
eighty kopecks 2 to provide her food in fast time, 
instead of forty, which are enough at other times ; and 
of this she complains. Also it is inconvenient that 
our Russian servants during the fasts will not consume 
the meat left by the English and American lodgers. 
And they are not content with potatoes, but must have 
soup made with oil and fish (though in the great Lent 
they do not eat fish). During the fasts the lower 
class " live chiefly on black rye-bread (which is moist 
and viscid, and slightly acid) and shtochi, a kind of 
soup made of red cabbages salted." One of their four 
Lents, which they are keeping now, is the first part of 
this month of August, from the 1st to the 14th 
(the eve of the Assumption) inclusively. It is called 
the Fast of our Lady (of the Mother of God). The 
other three Lents are the Fast of the Nativity, consist- 
ing of forty days before Christmas (beginning from the 
15th of November), the Great Lent (the preparation 
for which begins from the Sunday before Septuagesima), 
and the Fast of the Apostles, which is of variable 
length, according as Pentecost falls earlier or later, 
beginning with the Monday after the Sunday of All 
Saints, called by us Trinity Sunday, or the first 

2 [A rouble is worth 100 kopecks ; that is, (the rouble's value 
in English money being about 3s. 2d.) a kopeck is not quite 
two-fifths of a penny.] 



at the lodging-house. 47 



Sunday after Pentecost, and ending with the 28th of 
June, the eve of the Feast of the Apostles. The great 
mass of Eussians, they say, perform their devotions, 
and communicate only once a year, commonly in the 
first or last week, or else in some other week of the 
Great Lent ; and all public servants, both soldiers and 
civilians, are allowed some one week, during which 
they attend all the services three times a day to per- 
form their devotions (the Russian word is goviet}. To 
confess and to communicate once a year is required ; 
but some of the more pious will communicate, as many 
as four times, once in each of the four Fasts. And 
this is, in fact, recommended by their Church. The 
old people are very strict in observing the weekly fasts 
on Wednesday and Friday. On some days Miss 
D. says they eat nothing at all till six o'clock p.m. 



CHAPTER X. 
Table and other talk. 

A UGUST 9 [o.s.]. I saw Mr. Blackmore, chaplain 
*--*- of the English Russia Company at Cronstadt, 
for the first time. As I was going to the police 
office and the alien office with the clerk of the English 
Church, he observed that this is a country in which 
foreigners need recommendation and protection ; and, 
on my replying that I had a letter to Count Pratasoff, 
the Ober-Procuror of the Synod, he said, " then, sir, 
you are quite at the top of the tree, for he is the man 
that governs the Church." I said, " I fear the Rus- 
sians may rather object to me, that we English have 
let our kings and Parliaments alter our Church and 
religion as they pleased." " I dare say, sir," he replied; 
" but it is a very different thing here. Here there is 
no mistake about it." At tea, at my lodging-house, 
Mr. T. said, that not long ago he saw some prisoners 
going off to Siberia for heresy. They had attempted 
to start some invention or reformation in religion. He 



Table and other talk. 49 

talked of our having protested against the Roman 
Catholic Church, and having embraced the Protestant 
religion ; " but," he observed, " T can't abide a Dis- 
senter, because I pray in church against heresy and 
schism. Speaking of Confession, he said, " I, for 
one, never could submit to that; and, as to fast- 
ing, I should like to know where that is directed 
in the English Prayer-book ! " There are two Eng- 
lish churches here, that of the Factory at Cron- 
stadt, and another in Petersburg, called Sarepta, 
for English and American Independents, established 
originally by Dr. Pinkerton, agent of the Bible Society. 
Mr. Blackmore, and Mr. Law, are their respective 
chaplains. The English who die here are buried in 
the cemetery of the Lutherans. A month or two later 
a Russian lady told me that her aunt had written to 
her from Moscow that she had heard of me from some 
one there, who said that I had scandalized some of the 
English at Petersburg by making the sign of the cross, 
seen perhaps at some Russian dinner-table ; but there 
is a clergyman here, in some other respects a very 
strong Protestant, who said he found no fault at all 
with that ; he thought it quite harmless and edifying : 
"in fact," he added, " I often make the sign of the cross 
myself, but ' secretly ' under my surplice, ' for fear of 
the Jews.' " 

A Russian nobleman having asked his banker, a 

s 



5O Table and other talk. 



Scotchman, some question about me, the reply was, 
" Oh, he is not of our Church ; he is a member of 
some new sect ;" and the same nobleman having said 
something to the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Count 
Nesselrode, and as if the Anglican Church differed 
from the Lutherans and Calvinists, and was nearer 
to the Russian, Count Nesselrode answered, "The 
Anglican Church is just like the rest, simply Protestant 
and heretical. I must know, for I am an Anglican 
myself." (In fact he was so ; and he communicated 
in the English Church every Easter.) But our Am- 
bassador, Lord Clanricarde, answered somewhat dif- 
ferently. He said, "If you examine our formularies 
and the writings of some of our former bishops and 
divines, you may find in them much to justify such a 
representation of the Anglican Church. But if you 
go into our churches, you will see nothing at all of 
that kind. In fact, they have made all so bare and 
mean that religion has become contemptible to people 
of the higher classes." 

August 10 [o.s.]. Went out in the evening and 
looked into the neighbouring Church of St. Nicholas 
Morskoi (i.e. of the sea or the sailors). It has a bell- 
tower at its west end, standing apart ; not inelegant, 
though rather pagoda-like, with its roofs showing 
separate stages at intervals, coloured of a lighter green 
than its five cupolas. The whole is surrounded by a 



Table and other talk. 5 1 



pretty large enclosure with trees and grass like a garden, 
but no tombs. 

Going eastward, I came upon the Church of the 
Ascension a church with five dusky-blue domes and 
a separate bell-tower. I could not get far in, as the 
church was quite full ; but there was something so 
new and striking in the singing, which was sweet and 
distinct, and unaccompanied by instruments, and in 
the life and feeling with which the crowd joined in 
chanting frequent responses of Hospodi pomilui (i.e. 
Kyrie eleison), that I remained rivetted in attention 
for an hour or more, though I understood nothing. I 
observed some priests, who were not officiating, standing 
in chocolate-coloured gowns and wide sleeves, with 
beards and long hair, and boys, such as I had seen also 
in the morning, dressed as choristers in blue-striped 
cotton frocks or blouses, with girdles, and their ordi- 
nary dress below. 

The secular, or white priests, all have beards, and 
wear when going about a close-fitting, long, cloth 
cassock and a loose gown the cassock with tight, the 
gown with large open sleeves and a low, broad- 
brimmed hat. In the house they often (when alone) 
wear only the cassock. The gown and the cassock are 
commonly of the same colour, which varies according 
to the taste of the wearer, and may be chocolate 
colour, dark green, dark blue, olive, or any other 
E 2 



52 Table and other talk. 

colour, except black, which is the badge of the black 
or monastic clergy. Actual white, though they are 
called the white clergy, is not worn by the seculars ; 
nor are any very light shades of other colours in use. 

To return. The pictures were splendid, and all 
lighted up ; only the chandeliers when I came in were 
not lighted. The sharp treble voices of the boys mix- 
ing with the deeper tones of the older singers of the 
congregation, were very pleasing. There were also at 
times prayers. Bells of different churches were going 
on all sides at intervals, with their gong-like sound. 
The priests officiating in the Church of the Ascension 
were invisible, as I stood behind in the throng. I had 
never before heard anything so stirring and so congre- 
gational in divine worship. When all was over, there 
was the same general salutation of the icons as I had 
seen before. The crowd of beggars, who stood ranged 
in two rows both within the doors and without as we 
passed out, was great, and everybody seemed to give to 
them. I saw children giving. 



CHAPTER XL 
Mr. Blackmores illustrative anecdotes. 

Q1UKDAY, August 11 [o.s.]. Mr. Law took me 
^-^ in the afternoon to Alexandrofsky (in the direc- 
tion of Yiborg and Archangel), where he has a datcha, 
or country-house during the summer, and where he 
has an evening service for a small colony of English 
and Scotch people employed in some Imperial esta- 
blishments directed by a General Wilson. 

August 12 [o.s.]. The next day General Wilson 
showed us two very good churches, besides a magnifi- 
cent chapel attached to the foundling hospital, in which 
a great number of children sang, all together, the 
Creed in the Grace, before their dinner, producing a 
very sweet volume of sound. The country around 
looked bleak and bare, with only pines and birch- 
trees in parts. On Tuesday, August 13, the octave 
or dTroSoo-i? of the festival of the Transfiguration 
(when all is sung according to the service-books, as on 
the festival itself), I returned to Petersburg. 



54 Mr. Blackmore s 

The same day, August 13 [o.s.], I went down by 
the afternoon steamer to Cronstadt, to stay with Mr. 
and Mrs. Blackmore. His house and church have 
been built a mile from the commercial port ; and so 
the two thousand sailors, who are generally here, come 
but little to the church. It owes its cross to the 
Emperor Nicholas, for he, when it was building, having 
asked what it was, and hearing that it was a new 
church for the English, exclaimed, " What ! a church 
without a cross ! " And the next time he came and 
saw it still without a cross, he sent word that they 
should put one on immediately. When some of the 
| captains and sailors, Scotch and English, grumbled at 
this, Mr. Blackmore asked them whether .they had 
never seen something of the kind in London on the 
top of St. Paul's ? 

Great part of the chaplain's income here comes 
from fees paid by captains and traders on taking the 
oaths required by the Russian regulations. As they 
would scruple to be sworn on the cross, they have to 
bring a certificate from the English pastor that they have 
been sworn before him after their own fashion. When, 
after being thus sworn, they have to give evidence, 
they are asked (as Russians also are asked) when they 
last received the Holy Communion (and of this, too, 
Russians need to have a written certificate). A very fre- 
quent reply is that they have never received it some of 



illustrative anecdotes. 55 



them being Scotch, and those from the north-east coast 
of England not being in general communicants. The 
Kussians object, " Then your oath is worth nothing." 
To which the Scotchman or Englishman rejoins, " It 
is not our custom." They even wanted Mr. Black- 
more to certify for them that it was not their custom. 

Eor want of English, the servants of the English 
Church are Russians. One day, while the English 
were in the church, a ship was telegraphed, concerning 
which a Eussian merchant had need to speak with an 
Englishman. So he went to the church, and asked 
the doorkeeper if Mr. N". was within, and wished to 
go in to find him. But he was told that could not 
be. Then he asked the doorkeeper to go in and bring 
him out, or to take him a message. That could not be 
done either. So he was obliged to wait, and hoped it 
would not be long. " No," said the man, " I think it 
will be over soon, as it is a long time since they all sat 
down to sleep." 

Another story was told thus : As some Russians 
were talking together rather idly, a lady said, "I 
always pity the English ; they seem to be worse off 
than the rest. Even the Lutherans have Luther, and 
the Calvinists have Calvin, though they don't know 
how to use them ; but the English have no saint at all 
to help them, so they must certainly go to a bad 
place." 



56 Mr. Blackmore' s 

In the absence of anything to irritate, since prose- 
lytism is impossible, there is a good deal of mutual civi- 
lity, not only between the Russian, but even between 
the Roman Catholic clergy here and the Protestant 
pastors. They all came to the opening of the English 
Church. The Russian priest and the Lutheran pastor, 
and Mr. Blackmore himself, were all invited to the 
opening of the new Catholic Church. Mr. Blackmore, 
at the consecration of a new Russian church, was 
admitted within the sanctuary ; and on the same occa- 
sion, when the Roman Catholic priest, wrapped in a 
cloak, was making for the sanctuary, some would have 
stopped him ; but others, recognizing him, said, " Let 
him pass ; it is his right, he is a priest." 

The protopope of the sobor here is fond of liquor, 
as some of the clergy are still, though not so many as 
formerly, and the third priest is his son-in-law. The 
people, however, are indulgent towards the protopope, 
and they like him too, as being indulgent himself ; and 
many of them dislike the second priest, Vassili a very 
respectable man as being too severe. Once Mr. Black- 
more found the protopope incapable before his own 
house, under a heavy rain, and took him home at one 
o'clock in the morning. He said that he knew and 
respected Mr. Blackmore, and would go with him, but 
not with that fellow, a mnjilt (peasant), who was trying 
to take him away. 



illustrative anecdotes. 57 

The mujiks. Many of them get drunk on festivals. 
A servant, for instance, asked his master (Prince 
Michael Galitsin) at Easter to let him go " and get 
drunk like other Christians." They will religiously 
keep an oath taken before their icons or on the cross. 
An Englishman wanted to make his man-servant swear 
on the cross not to drink, but he refused. He did 
swear eventually, but not on the cross. 

Their fastings are said to produce a reaction after- 
wards towards excess, even in the higher classes and 
among the religious. Mr. Blackmore approves rather 
of the Eoman Catholic custom, which relaxes greatly 
the ancient rules, and he would approve of our Angli- 
can custom most of all, if only it could be reconciled 
with Church principles, by supposing that our Primate 
gives us all virtually a general dispensation from all 
fasting. Here the people make themselves ill with 
eating and drinking after their fasts. Even those 
wretched women who live by sin suspend their trade 
during the fasts ; and a Eussian who is going to do 
anything sinful, will first turn the icon with its face to 
the wall. 

A story was told to this effect : There are two 
roads from Petersburg to Archangel, one well known 
and the other less frequented by foreign mer- 
chants and traders. By some chance, not very long 
ago, a German took the less-frequented road. It was 



58 Mr. Blackmores 

during the great Lent. Arriving at a village, he went 
as usual to the starost, or head-man, to quarter him 
somewhere where he might pass the night, paying for 
what he needed. The old peasant told him that he 
would himself take him in, that he was welcome, and 
need say nothing about payment; there was stable- 
room and fodder for his horses, and plenty of bread 
and salt. So the horses were stabled, and the stranger 
was soon seated in the house, where the best they had, 
but that only fast fare, was set before him. The 
German, however, did not relish this fare, and getting 
out of a basket of his own some cold pork, he began' 
to eat. The Eussian looked at him as if he scarcely 
believed his eyes, and then, drawing a hatchet from 
his girdle, without a word, he cleft the man's skull. 
For this he was knouted and sent to Siberia ; but the 
villagers were far from regarding him as a murderer. 
And the same man, perhaps, when his confessor had 
taught him that such homicides were to do penance, 
would get a blacksmith to rivet a heavy chain round 
his body, and wear it till his death. 

Sir R. Ker Porter, in his account of the campaign 
of 1812, relates a story akin to this, of a peasant, with 
whom some French foragers, after plundering his 
house of everything, even to the cat, amused them- 
selves by pricking on the palm of his left hand the 
letter N, and rubbing in gunpowder. The peasant 



illustrative anecdotes. 59 

asked, " Eto shto 1 " (what's that ?) and being told by 
a Pole, who interpreted, that it was " N" for Napoleon, so 
that now you are his man." " Am 1 1 " he replied ; and 
seizing his hatchet, he cut the hand off with a blow, 
exclaiming, " Take that to your emperor, if it be his ; 
but with the one that is left I will serve Alexander 
Paulo vich." 

Peter the Great plundered the Church. Peter III., 
who was in truth a Lutheran, plundered it still more ; 
and his open contempt for the icons alarmed the 
people. Catharine II., though she usurped the throne 
on pretence of defending orthodoxy, and at first nat- 
tered the clergy with hopes of restitution, completed 
(in A.E. 1762) the work of spoliation. Still the monas- 
teries of monks and nuns exist ; and though new ones 
cannot be founded, nor real property be acquired with- 
out special permission, voluntary alms come in aid of 
the insufficient allowances made by the Government. 

The monasteries of men must be kept up, as long as 
the bishops are all monks ; and as things are, the 
supply of monks fit to be rectors and professors in the 
spiritual seminaries and academies and bishops in the 
dioceses, is by no means greater than is needed. Some 
of these, indeed some of the unlearned monks, too, 
are of noble birth, and have been in civil or military 
service. I have been told of one the Archimandrite 
Brenchininoff, now Superior of the Sergiefsky poustin 



6o Mr. Blackmores 

(hermitage of Sergius) at Strelna, on the Peterhof 
road. He was in the army, and rather a favourite 
with the Emperor. Not long ago, some members of 
the French Embassy were pleased with him, and M. 
de Barante invited him to dinner, and engaged some 
French Abbe to meet him, who had the best of it in an 
argument. And this being boasted of by the French, 
the Emperor sent an order to the Archimandrite not to 
leave his convent again without permission. 

For a layman of the higher classes to become a 
secular or white priest is a thing unknown. On the 
other hand, sons of secular priests, especially such as 
have abilities, will often enter the civil service ; and 
some, as the late Speransky, have risen to important, 
though not to the very highest offices. Commonly the 
secular priests marry their sons and daughters into one 
another's families, and they are often succeeded by 
their sons or sons-in-law, the support of a widow with 
unmarried daughters, or with young sons, entering into 
the family arrangement, upon which a priest marries, 
before being ordained. 

I heard of one daughter of a priest here, who had 
had a better education than is common for her class, and 
who married unwillingly the young man who was to 
succeed her father, when she would have wished to 
marry a soldier or civilian. Still she continues to go 
to dances and parties, which is unusual for a priest's 



illustrative anecdotes. 6 1 

wife ; and some of the officers are fond of teazing her, 
when they chat with her or ask her to dance, by calling 
her " Matushka " (mother), a priest himself being 
commonly addressed as " Batushka " (father). 

The second priest here, Vassili, whom Mr. Black- 
more would be glad to see more frequently, is shy (he 
thinks) of visiting him on account of the difference in 
social position. On the other hand, as regards himself, 
a colonel, asking him and Mrs. Blackmore to dinner, 
addressed him by a purely civil title proper to his own 
rank of colonel, that is, as a gentleman, not as a priest. 
The Russian clergy are invited to the houses of citizens 
and merchants, but never to those of the nobility. 
Admiral Rikard once won the goodwill of some of them 
(bishops they were) by taking them in from some ante- 
room, where they had been left waiting, and presenting 
them at Court. 



CHAPTER XI L 

Mr. Blackmores translations, chiefly as bearing 
on the Uniats. 

O UCH men as the Metropolitan Philaret of Moscow 
are somewhat cramped by the horror there is of 
anything like innovation. He, for instance, as having 
translated the Book of Genesis from the Hebrew, natu- 
rally quoted, in something he published, from his own 
version, not from the Septuagint. But for this he was 
blamed, and he was forced to alter his quotations in a 
second edition. The Metropolitan Philaret returns to 
Petersburg in October, and stays till June, in order to 
attend the meetings of the Synod. While here he 
resides in a lodge belonging to the Trinity Lavra, of 
which he is the Archimandrite. 

The Metropolitan, of Novgorod and Petersburg, 
Seraphim, is now the presiding member or " First 
member " of the Synod, not by any right of his see, but 
by ukase (oukaz) of the Emperor. 

According to present custom the three Metropo- 



Mr. Blackmore's translations. 63 

litans of Novgorod and Petersburg, of Moscow, and of 
Kieff, and two archbishops, viz. the Emperor's Con- 
fessor and the High Almoner of the Army and Fleet, 
are permanent members of the Synod. Three more 
members are called to sit for two or three years perhaps 
at a time, from among the other bishops. Besides 
these eight there are certain assessors without votes, 
but all this depends absolutely on the will of the 
Emperor. 

Mr. Blackmore within the last year or two has trans- 
lated into English from the Russ (1.) Some sermons 
by Michael, late metropolitan of Petersburg ; and other 
sermons by Philaret, the present metropolitan of Mos- 
cow ; (2. ) A history of the Russian Church from the 
earliest times down to the institution of the Synod by 
Peter the Great, by A. K Mouravieff, a cavalry officer 
who has travelled in the Levant attached to the 
Foreign Office, but is now Unter-Prokuror of the Most 
Holy Synod (3.) The Full Catechism of the Orthodox 
Catholic Church (of Russia); and (4.) The official 
account of the return in A.D. 1839 of a million and a half 
of Lithuanian Uniats to the communion of the Russian 
Church, after union with Rome for between two and 
three centuries. 

The return * of these Uniats is regarded as one of the 

1 [There are two sides to the conduct of the Russian Govern- 
ment in this transaction. For the systematic violence by which 



64 Mr. Blackmores translations. 

most important ecclesiastical events of our time, and, 
having taken place quite recently, it is still very frequently 
spoken of with satisfaction, especially by persons con- 
nected with the Government. By it the United Rite, 
which dated from 1596 in Little Russia, Yolhynia, White 
Russia, and Lithuania, as well as Red Russia or Gallicia, 
all at that time under the crown of Poland, have, so far 
as the Russian empire is concerned, ceased to exist. 
There remains now in it only one United Diocese, that 
of Kholm, which though originally Russian, had long 
been annexed to Poland proper ; and by that accident 
it has been preserved, at least for the present. The 
re-absorption of the Uniats by the Russian Church 
was a result which might have been anticipated 
from the time of the first partition of Poland, and in 
fact great numbers of them had already been reunited 
under Catharine II. and her successors, and a number 
of causes concurred to facilitate their reunion. They 
had not been honoured and favoured, while they were 
under the crown of Poland ; nor had those promises 
which had been made to them been kept. By their 
union with Rome they had socially lost ground ; the 
nobles had almost all passed over to the Latin rite, so 
that it had become usual to speak of the Latin rite as 

this return of the Uniats was at length effected, vide Fr. Theinei-'s 
ISEglise Schismatique Russe and Vicende dalle Ch. Gait, nella 
Polonia e nella Russia.~] 



Of Russian ecclesiastical documents. 65 

that of the nobles, and of the united or Greco-Latin 
rite as that of the peasants ; and as that rite had been 
preserved free from Latin innovations, it was no 
wonder if, on their passing from a Roman Catholic 
Polish to a Russo-Greek sovereign, they showed signs 
of gravitating towards their original communion, signs, 
of which the Russian Government would naturally avail 
itself. 

But however attached they might still be to their 
original Eastern customs and rites, they could not after 
two centuries and a half of actual union with Rome be 
suspected of any sympathy with Protestantism, or with 
Muscovite representatives of the school of Theophanes 
Procopovich ; 2 nor of any great zeal to transfer them- 
selves from a purely spiritual to a purely secular head. 
Probably, then, some motive of policy, connected first 
with the prospect of the reunion of the TJniats, and 
then with its actual accomplishment, has had a share 
in promoting that reaction against the school of Theo- 
phanes Procopovich, and that desire to dissemble and 
palliate the excesses committed by the temporal power 
in Russia, which has of late been perceptible. 

Under the present Ober Procurer, Count Pratasoff, 
himself educated by the Jesuits, the ideas of Church 
authority and of tradition, as opposed to the principles 

2 [That IB, Platon and Philaret.] 



66 Mr. Blockmarks translations. 

of the Bible Society, have been during the last four 
years popularized in the Spiritual Seminaries 'and Acade- 
mies. And at the same time that steps were being 
suggested and encouraged to bring about the return of 
the Uniats, documents were published which seemed 
intended to blunt the edge of Latin sarcasms, sure to 
be made against a Tsar-Patriarch and against a State 
Church which had been penetrated by Protestant prin- 
ciples. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Official documents published with a view to the 
Uniat movement. 

rjlHESE documents are as follows : First, in 1838, 
"*" the year before the return of the Uniats, under 
the title of " Imperial and Patriarchal Letters," there 
were published (1.) A letter from Peter I. (the Great) to 
the Patriarch Jeremiah of Constantinople, dated Sept. 
30, 1672, announcing the fact that he had instituted a 
Spiritual Kollegium or Synod to govern the Kussian 
Church ; and requesting the Patriarch of Constantinople 
and the other Patriarchs to recognize as good the said 
College, and to correspond with it, as they had corre- 
sponded with the former Patriarchs of all Russia. (2 and 
3.) Two Letters, that is, one from the Patriarch Jeremiah 
and one from the Patriarch Athanasius of Antioch, dated 
Sept. 23, 1723, identical in their wording, addressed to 
nobody, but recognizing "the Synod, instituted in Russia 
by the holy Tsar," in the manner desired ; (4.) Another 
letter of the same date from the Patriarch Jeremiah, 
F 2 



68 Russian official documents 

addressed to the Synod, with a copy enclosed of the 
XVIII. Articles of a Synod held in 1672 at Bethlehem 
by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, Dositheus, and serving 
partly as an ultimatum to certain British non-j Tiring 
bishops (who in 1716 had sent to Jeremiah proposals 
for union, and had written again in 1722), and partly 
as a standard of orthodoxy for the Russian Synod itself. 
And (5.) These same Articles of the Synod of Bethle- 
hem ; now translated into Russ. 

These XVIII. articles of the Synod of Bethlehem in 
1672 sent by the Greek Patriarchs in 1723 to Russia 
and to England, I have said were now in 1838 published; 
but perhaps not so much for their own sake, as for the 
Patriarchal recognition of the Russian Synod which 
was contained in the formal letters which accompanied 
them. However, they have a curious and not unimpor- 
tant history attached to them. They were originally 
obtained from the Patriarch Dositheus, by the French 
Ambassador of the day, M. de Nointel, to serve as a 
complete disavowal and condemnation of a former 
XVIII. articles of Calvinistic character, the work of 
Cyril Lucar, obtained some time before by the Dutch Am- 
bassador. Dositheus (1672), in sending his own eighteen 
to M. de Nointel, expressed " a hope that he had done 
his work to the ambassador's satisfaction." Of course * 
he had, for if Cyril leaned toward Calvin, Dositheus, in 
his statement of Greek doctrine, spoke with Rome. 



bearing upon the Uniat movement. 69 

He had overstepped the recognized bounds of orthodoxy 
in his statement of Greek doctrine not only by inserting 
the full Latin terminology of " accidents " as well as 
" substance," respecting Transubstantiation (the point 
on which the chief controversy had been raised in 
France, and in this he was only following the Synod 
of Jassy of A.D. 1643, i.e. the Orthodox Confession of 
Peter Mogila), but he admitted the Tridentine Canon 
of Holy Scripture ; and in reply to the question, 
" Whether all the faithful are allowed to read the 
Holy Scriptures'?" he made his Synod answer 
roundly, " No ! " For this reason, in these and in some 
other points, the Russian Synod of 1838, in translating 
the XVIII. articles of the Synod of Bethlehem into 
Kuss, has had to correct by altering or by altogether omit- 
ting what was plainly inaccurate. And this, however 
delicately it might be done, was an awkward thing to 
do ; indeed, a thing not really of their competence to 
do, being what they are, and no more. But there were, 
as has been said, other reasons for bringing forward 
the Patriarchal letters connected with this document, 
reasons which overbore the awkwardness of making 
alterations ; and therefore this document, as being in- 
separable from the letters recognizing the Synod, was 
altered so far as seemed necessary and published 
together with them. 

So the Greek Patriarchs, at the same time that they 



70 Russian official documents 

replied to the letter of Peter the Great, announcing the 
institution of the Russian Synod and the peace of Nys- 
tadt, gloriously ending the long Swedish war (which 
answer to Peter, written after a long delay and hesi- 
tation, I observe, was not published in 1838) ; * and 
while they were careful to send to Russia the XVIII. 
Articles of Bethlehem as their ultimatum to the British 
non-juring bishops, were content to recognize by letter 
the Russian Synod, Peter's Church Commission, without 
any accurate inquiry about its composition, " legitima- 
tizing, confirming, and proclaiming it ; giving it the style 
and title of Our Brother in Christ, the Holy and Sacred 
Synod, with authority to do and perform all that is done 
or performed by the four Apostolical and Most Holy 
Patriarchal Thrones ; putting it in remembrance, more- 
over, exhorting and enjoining on it, to hold and pre- 
serve inviolably the customs and Canons of the Seven 
Ecumenical Councils, and all besides that the Holy 
Eastern Church acknowledges and observes ; " and so 
giving it their blessing. Of these Letters that from 
the Patriarch Jeremiah of Constantinople, signing 
himself "your brother in Christ," is dated 23 Sept. 
A.D. 1723. By the publication in A.D. 1838 of these 
Imperial and Patriarchal Letters, it was no doubt sought 
to palliate in the eyes of the Uniats those acts of Peter 

1 [There is some obscurity here in the text. I have added 
some words to it.] 



bearing upon the Uniat movement. 71 

the Great, upon which the present government of the 
Kussian Church is based. Every church is now re- 
quired to have a copy of these Letters, with the 
XVIII. Articles of the Synod of Bethlehem, as printed 
in Russ appended to them. 

Secondly, in A.D. 1839, the year of the return of the 
Uniats, there was published by the Synod a folio 
edition of the Canons of the Seven Ecumenical and the 
nine Local Councils and the Canons of the Holy Fathers, 
conjoined with the same in the older Kormchay, without 
any glosses, notes, or comments ; and without any ad- 
ditions from the civil laws such as are added in the 
Kormchay, in Greek or Slavonic, in parallel columns. 

Thirdly, in the same year, 1839, there was also pub- 
lished at the Synodal Press a new edition of the 
Russian text or version of the Orthodox Confession of 
the Faith of the Catholic and Apostolical Church of the 
East, as corrected and approved in presence of the 
Patriarchal legates in the Synod of Jassy of A.D. 1643, 
and afterwards approved by all the Patriarchs them- 
selves. This Orthodox Confession, drawn up originally 
in Russ by Peter Mogila, was designed as a pre- 
servative for his flock in Little Russia from Protestant 
errors even more than from Latinism. 

Fourthly and lastly, in the same year 1839 it was 
that the Catechism of the Metropolitan Philaret of 
Moscow, as recast, supplemented and corrected by him- 



72 Russian Official documents. 

self under influences altogether contrary to those of 
the Bible Society, and to those under which it 
was originally written only for his own diocese, was 
published by the Synod, with the title of a Full Cate- 
chism, of the Orthodox Catholic Eastern Church. In 
this catechism, which has been translated into German, 
French, and Modern Greek, and has been sent to 
the Eastern Patriarchs, besides constant references to 
the Holy Scriptures, and the Orthodox Fathers, and 
sometimes to the hymns and ritual of the Church, 
the Orthodox Confession of Peter Mogila, and the 
XVIII. Articles of the Synod of Bethlehem of A.D. 
1672 (under the title of Missive of the Eastern Patri- 
archs on the Orthodox Faith) are cited as of authority. 
Mr. Blackmore and I read and translated together at 
Cronstadt, the Orthodox Confession of Peter Mogila, 
in which we found no variation from the Greek or 
from the earlier Russian original. We read and 
translated together in the same way also the XVIII. 
Articles of the Synod of Bethlehem of A.D. 1672 
(comparing the original Greek with the recently 
printed Russian version, and noticing all the altera- 
tions), and the Imperial and Patriarchal Letters which 
were the occasion of that Russian version. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
Further illustrative remarks by Mr. Blackmore. 

1\ /TR B. spoke of the advantages of the Eus- 
sian diocesan seminaries (an institution imi- 
tated from the Uniats in the time of Peter the 
Great), but he doubted whether it would suit my 
purpose to live in the Spiritual Academy, supposing 
it to be permitted, as the Professors there do not live 
in community. He doubted, too, whether I could live 
in the family of a secular priest, owing to the great 
difference of their habits from ours. "It is well, 
however," he said, "if you wish to live in the 
Spiritual Academy that you have a letter to Count 
Pratasoff; for a year ago the Emperor, visiting the 
Academy, and finding it ill kept, transferred to the 
Ober-Prokuror the absolute charge of all the educa- 
tional establishments of the clergy, which had before 
been under a Spiritual Commission." " The Russians," 
Mr. B. said, "in the first part of the seventeenth 
century, after having recovered Moscow from the Poles, 



74 Mr. Blackmores remarks 

made a canon, in a synod held by the Patriarch 
Philaret, to rebaptize all the Latins, Roman Catholics 
and Protestants alike. And though this was for- 
bidden afterwards by the Patriarch Nicon, it was 
only in the time of Peter the Great (who obtained a 
letter for that purpose from Constantinople), that they 
ceased to rebaptize Protestants. Still, if you would be 
admitted to communion " (an idea for which he was 
wholly unprepared) " you will have to be confirmed 
with Chrism : you will have to accept all the tradi- 
tions of the Orthodox Eastern Church, and not only 
those which you may call ecumenical ; you will have to 
confess before communicating. Perhaps you will say 
you have no objection, as this is not contrary to the 
doctrine and theory of our own Church. Then there 
is the Creed, on which the Greeks are very strong." 
I said I thought the Greek doctrine virtually agreed 
with the Latin ; else it would be an heresy. He 
replied, "I cannot see that; the subject is altogether 
beyond human reasoning. I regret that it should 
ever have been moved; and we cannot defend the 
interpolation of the Creed, which Pearson is forced 
to give up." "At any rate," I said, "those Latin 
fathers, such as St. Augustine, who used the Latin 
mode of speaking before the schism, were Orthodox ; 
and the Greeks have never yet dared to maintain that 
they held and taught heresy. And if so, the existing 



on the Rttssian ecclesiastical position. 75 

difference which is the same, only widened and 
systematized, must be reconcilable in some way now, 
as it was then." 

I spoke also to Mr. Blackmore of the definition of the 
Visible Church and of the advantage given to the 
Eoman Catholics by the Russians and Greeks, when, 
like ourselves, they speak of them indifferently, 
whether in Russia, at Rome, or in England, as all 
standing on the same ground, whereas in truth there 
is a difference between their original communities 
and others of later formation, which latter I called 
schismaticaL But he could by no means follow me 
in this ; nor could he see that there is any fault to 
find with the Russians for speaking as they do. 
" They admit," he said, " the Latin Church to be 
still part of the Church, but fallen away and corrupted. 
If it were only to correct itself, it would recover its 
full place and honour ; and there would then be no 
cause for separation of communion (rite being another 
thing) in Russia any more than at Rome. This is 
what they say, standing on the ground of the Seven 
Ecumenical Councils and the tradition of the un- 
divided Church, from which, as they assert, their 
Eastern Church has never swerved, while the Latin 
or Roman Catholic Church has." 

From living much with Russian naval officers and 
others, he has come to perceive, so he says, that their 



76 Mr. Blackmore's remarks 



invocation of the saints does not interfere with the 
one mediation of Christ; nor is their veneration of 
icons really idolatry, though there may be superstition 
mixed with it ; and instanced the ambiguous use of 
the word " God," which is very awkward. " I have 
had many arguments," he said, " with my friend and 
colleague Law " (the chaplain at Petersburg) " on 
these subjects ; but he, like most English people, 
cannot get out of his habit of speaking only from his 
own English point of view. You will find him of 
quite a different opinion from me. We have both 
been in Russia now about twenty years." 

The English colony here the residents, that is 
are strangely isolated ; and even the chaplains know 
little or nothing of what is going on in a literary or 
religious way at home. Mr. Blackmore, though he 
has been here above twenty years, speaks as if he had 
only just left college. He was at Merton, and entered, 
I think, about A.D. 1808. He was a contemporary of 
Mr. (John) Keble, whose name he remembers ; but 
he had never heard of the Christian Year. When I 
expressed surprise at this, he accounted for it by 
saying that the charges for newspapers, periodicals, 
books, and small parcels here are at much the same 
rate as those for letters (and for every letter sent or 
received one has to pay a postage equal to about five 
shillings, besides what is paid in England). And 



on the Russian ecclesiastical position. 77 

even to have a Review sent out costs so much in 
money and trouble that one would never think of 
ordering anything, unless it were a large quantity of 
books to be sent out at one time. 

I should add, that, shortly after, when I saw the other 
chaplain, Mr. Law, he said that the Eussian clergy 
,form a caste apart : there may be some kind of 
respect paid them when they are officiating, but else 
very little. Few of them have received any educa- 
tion : they are mostly mere peasants. He said, " You 
will find it utterly impossible to live with them." 
He spoke of the upper classes, like the lower, being 
superstitiously attached to the worship of pictures^ 
and of their putting many mediators in the place of 
Christ. He once asked a drunken servant where he 
would go if he died in that state, or in those habits ? 
The man begged him not to talk of dying, but, when 
pressed, said that he would pray to his saint, and 
he would arrange matters for him if it were possible. 
" He seemed to regard his saint as a kind of attorney, 
whose business it was to get him off when the law 
went against him." 



CHAPTER XV. 
M. Baranoffs anecdotes. 

A UGUST 14 [o.s.]. This morning (the Vigil of the 
Assumption) Mr. Blackmore brought up a poor 
nun whom he had seen passing his house. On entering 
the drawing-room she looked from one corner to another 
for the Icon, and seeing none, she crossed herself to an 
ornamented clock which stood just opposite. She was 
dressed in a black habit and cap like a hat without a 
brim, much like those of the monks, covered by a hood 
and veil. She is from a convent on the road to Arch- 
angel. The establishment by the Government schedule 
is for fourteen nuns, an hegoumena (head) and two 
others, seventeen in all, with an allowance of sixteen 
roubles each year. These nuns must be forty years old 
at their profession. Then there are seventy others, who 
are admitted at the age of twenty-five or twenty-six 
years ; and, lastly, others, so as to make in all about 
two hundred. They support themselves by their work 
and by alms. They have two secular priests who cele- 
brate the liturgy (mass) and other divine offices for 



M. Baranoff's anecdotes. 79 

them. They have (sometimes) two liturgies in the 
day. She is now sent out to collect alms for regilding 
the iconostasis (screen) in their chief church. Like the 
monks, these nuns never eat flesh meat. 

During the vigil of this evening I was introduced to 
an officer named Baranoff, who, as they all seemed to 
do, talked occasionally in the church, and afterwards 
came home with us to tea. Having recently been 
dangerously ill, he observed that they have an unspeak- 
able consolation in their belief that the Elessed Sacra- 
ment is really Christ's Body and Blood. 

On some other occasions afterwards I heard named 
members of mixed families, who, seeing the effects of 
this belief in their sick or dying relatives, were con- 
verted to the Eussian Church by the desire to share the 
same privilege. One Lutheran lady, who at first 
thought that she might believe nearly the same with- 
out changing, if their doctrine was consubstantiation, in 
consequence consulted her pastor, asking him what she 
ought to believe, and whether what she had received 
was really the Body of Christ or not *? the pastor re- 
plied, "Madame, c'est com me vous voulez," which 
shocked her, and she changed soon afterwards, saying 
that she did not wish to belong to a Church in which 
such matters were to depend only on her own feeling 
or opinion ; there was no strength or consolation to be 
obtained from that. 



8o M. Baranoff's anecdotes. 

Another Lutheran lady, married to a Russian, when 
supposed to be dying and almost insensible, had, 
through the over-great zeal of her Russian connexions 
in whose house she was, been reconciled to the Russian 
Church. Contrary to expectation she recovered, and 
her Lutheran relations urged her, for the honour of 
their Confession, to disavow what they said had been 
invalidly and illegally done without her will, and return 
to the profession of the GospeL But she replied that 
she seriously and heartily accepted what had been done, 
and nothing on earth should ever induce her to go 
back, though she knew she was free to do so if she 
pleased. 

As we were talking of superstitions, and of some 
usages which the English here often call heathenish, 
M. Baranoff told us that the plate of boiled grains, rice, 
&c., with raisins stuck in it, called Koutia, which is 
placed in church and blessed at funerals, on the com- 
memorations of the dead on the eighth, twentieth, and 
fortieth days and their anniversaries, and twice a year 
taken to the graves in the cemeteries, and there eaten 
or distributed,- is derived from an early custom of distri- 
buting at such times, in the name of the deceased, not 
only some refreshment to those who had assisted at the 
Liturgy (mass) or the Pannychid (vigil) over-night, but 
also alms and food to the poor. In fact, something 
like a meal was given to the poor at a funeral and the 



M. Baranoff s anecdotes. 8 1 

two annual commemorations in the cemetery. And 
this last custom is even still kept up in some places. 

M. Baranoff told us several remarkable stories, for 
instance : At the time of the mutiny on the present 
Emperor's accession, a certain captain had given 
assurance that he could answer for all his men ; and, 
some of them having notwithstanding joined the 
mutineers, this man, being hardly spoken of by his 
colonel, shot himself. His sister, who was a nun, 
prayed much for his soul : and after twenty days she 
saw him in a dream, and he seemed to tell her that 
he was benefited much by her prayers, and to beg her 
to continue them. After forty days or a year (I forget 
which) he appeared again, giving her to understand 
that now it was well with him. 

Again he spoke of a monastery on the road, I think 
to Archangel, where, when he was quite a boy, the re- 
mains of a JueromonacJi, named Theodore, were found 
incorrupt, 1 and wrought miracles. They acquired such 

1 \Vide infra, p. 91, note. The most famous of these instances 
are supplied by the catacombs at Kieff. 

" On the Dnieper," says Cardinal Lambertini, " is the city 
Kieff, and here are certain crypts about which Herbinius, a 
Lutheran, wrote a treatise. He made an inquiry about them of 
the Archimandrite, and as the result of it candidly reports 
that they were the work of angelic men whose bodies had 
remained incorrupt for about 600 years by reason of their 
sanctity of life and singular piety towards God. However, we 



82 M. Baranoff's anecdotes. 

fame, that when he was grown up, from a feeling of 
curiosity, he persuaded his sister and others of his 
family to go to a distance of 150 versts to the monas- 
tery where the relics lay. While they were there, a 
possessed girl was brought. She was bound with ropes 
and chains, and howled and cried in the most horrible 
and inhuman manner when the fit was on her. They 
sent for the priest to exorcise her ; and as they were 
bringing the Trebuck (the Office-book) to read the 
prayers out of, she cried out not to let that book come 
near her; that it hurt her. When read, however, it 

are ignorant whose bodies are buried in these crypts, and it 
ought to be enough for us that their incorruption [taken by 
itself] is not to be accounted a miracle." Canon. Sanct., pp. 
208, 209. 

Pinkerton says, " The sacred catacombs consist of subterranean 
excavations in the hard dry sand and clayey hills on the left 
bank of the Dnieper. As with tapers in our hands we passed 
along, winding in different directions, we came to the square 
cells of the monks in former times, now the sepulchral chambers 
of many of them. Smaller niches are also occupied with bodies 
lying in open coffins, swaddled and dressed up in silks, with gloves 
on their hands and shoes on their feet of the most costly 
materials. The number of these mosches is seventy -three. In 
some respects they resemble mummies ; only the latter have been 
embalmed, whereas these are preserved from falling into dust 
merely by the peculiar quality of the soil, and the dryness of the 
air in these caves, resembling that in the lower aisles of the 
cathedral churches of Bordeaux and Bremen, where I have seen 
a number of bodies which have been preserved in the same way, 
some of them for centuries." Russia, pp. 218, 219.] 



M. Baranoff's anecdotes. 83 

produced little or no effect. They then made her touch 
the Relics, which she struggled most violently not to 
do. At last they laid her hand or arm upon them, and 
she shrieked out. And then it seemed as if she were 
stupefied or killed by it ; and she lay as if in a swoon 
for some time. For all that^ when she at last came to 
herself she was by no means cured. He and his party left 
without waiting to see the end. They say that there 
are many such cases ; almost everybody has had per- 
sonal knowledge of one or more. And though often 
there is no perfect cure, yet often on the other 
hand, there is a manifest cure \ and even careless and 
irreligious people confess that it is so. 

A friend of his, who had been living carelessly, was 
sitting alone one night in his room, his servant being in 
the anteroom. Suddenly his dog began to whine, and to 
show great excitement. At first he saw nothing ; then 
he saw his father, who looked sternly at him, and 
asked him how long he meant to play the fool. The 
servant, being questioned, said that his attention had 
been excited by the dog's whining as if in alarm, and, 
on putting his head in, he saw his master looking like 
one dead. M. Baranoff said that from that time his 
friend has been an altered man. 



G 2 



CHAPTER XVI. 
The Greek Liturgy. 

rpHURSDAY, Aug. 15 [o.s.]. The Assumption. 
-*- At 10 a.m. I went to the Liturgy, and found 
the church thronged, as it had been last night. 
The Deacon was standing with his face close to the 
Holy Doors, which presently were opened (that is 
for the lesser Introit, with the Gospel), and some- 
what later (i.e. after the Gospel had been chanted) 
they were shut. After a while they again opened, and 
the Deacon came round again into the church from the 
north side-door, bearing on his head with one hand up 
to it the diskos (i.e. the paten) covered up, and having 
in his other hand a thurible, and followed by the priest 
bearing the chalice. Then the Holy Doors were again 
closed, and the veil within drawn. This is called the 
Great Introit, soon after which the Creed was sung by 
the two choirs of singers together ; and the more mys- 
terious part of the Liturgy followed, in which after the 
singing had ceased, Christ's words of the Institution 



TJu Greek Liturgy. 85 

both for the Bread and for the Cup were uttered by the 
Priest aloud quite distinctly, and a response of Amen 
was sung after each recitation. Also the oblation, 
" offering to Thee for all and in respect of all " (8ia 
irdvTa KCU Kara irai/ra), was said aloud, a slight ele- 
vation being made at the same time by the Deacon, 
and the choir sang something after it ; and the invo- 
cation of the Holy Ghost "to make this bread the 
Body of Christ " was likewise said aloud, with a re- 
sponse of Amen by the Deacon, and " to make this cup 
the Blood of Christ " with Amen again, and for both 
together " changing by the Holy Spirit," with a triple 
response of Amen, Amen, Amen. But this invocation 
is commonly unheard and unnoticed by those standing 
in the body of the church. Then at the mention of 
the Blessed Virgin, as especially commemorated, the 
choirs burst in with an anthem : " It is meet indeed to 
call thee Blessed, Deipara, ever-blessed and all- 
immaculate, and mother of our God, more honourable 
than the cherubim and more glorious than the sera- 
phim beyond compare, who with unimpaired virginity 
didst bear God the Word, we magnify thee as being 
truly the Mother of God." The Lord's Prayer, also, a 
little later, was sung by all the singers together, as if by 
the whole congregation ; and after the Priest and the 
Deacon had received the Communion within, the Holy 
Doors were once more opened, and the Holy Mysteries 



86 The Greek Liturgy. 



were shown by the Deacon to the people with this in- 
vitation : " With fear of God, and with faith draw 
near ;" at which all either prostrated or made a low 
reverence, crossing themselves. And when there are 
communicants, this is the time for the Communion of 
the laity, who go up and receive a particle taken from 
the chalice with a spoon, one by one, standing, but in a 
reverent posture, immediately in front of the Holy 
Doors. Then the Priest put the disk or paten on the 
head of the Deacon, to carry it away to the side-altar ; 
and the people, at this last showing of the Holy Gifts, 
made again an act of adoration by prostrating them- 
selves or bowing low. Then the Priest came out, and 
said the final prayer in the church, in front of the 
people; and while the Deacon was consuming what 
remained of the Mysteries at the side-altar, the Priest 
distributed small squares of blessed bread called the 
Antidoron to the people, and so he gave with the Cross 
the final blessing, in which the prayers of all the 
saints, and those of St. John Chrysostom, St. Basil, 
and St. Gregory Theologus, by name, are always 
mentioned. 

The sanctuary here is called oltdr, the altar itself 
is called the prestol (the throne), or the Holy Table ; 
the side altar of prothesis, at which the Offertory 
is made separately, before the commencement of 
the Liturgy, is commonly called the jertvennik, though 



The Greek Liturgy. 87 

improperly, as this word (from jertvo, sacrifice) is a 
literal translation of the Greek Ovo-iaarTrjpiov, and so 
should belong specially to the main altar or throne. This 
latter has a cross standing upon it and six candlesticks, 
and a tabernacle approached from behind, in which (in 
parish churches only) the Holy Communion, conse- 
crated 011 Holy Thursday, is preserved for the sick. 
The " Lamb " then consecrated is smeared from the con- 
secrated chalice, and afterwards dried, so that it may re- 
present both kinds. It is then carefully crumbled, and 
in this state it is reserved. When it is needed for the 
sick, the Priest puts a crumb or two into the chalice, 
before administering with the spoon from the 
chalice, just as he does in ordinary Communion in the 
church. 



CHAPTER XVII. 
The commencement of Controversy. 

this day the second Priest, Vassili, paid us a 
visit, and conversed with me in Latin. He 
asked, " Have you preserved the diaconate ? " I 
answered, "Certainly we have. Without bishops, 
priests, and deacons there is no Church." He pro- 
duced a Latin book, printed in England, by Thomas 
Burnet, " On the State of the Dead," which the author 
considered to be one of unconscious sleep, and "On the 
Duty of a Christian Man." In this it was said that 
" No form of Church government had been appointed 
of God, nor is of necessity ; but that it is left variably 
according to the different circumstances, and pre- 
ferences of states and kingdoms." " Many Anglicans," 
I said, " have so written, and still so write out of tender- 
ness for the Lutherans and Calvinists ; but here, in 
another place, this same author writes that 'The 
bishops have been sent by God to teach the nations, 
and that the Lord has promised to be with them in 



The commencement of Controversy. 89 

teaching, even to the end of the world.' It is true 
that it is said very briefly, while the contrary opinion 
is set forth at length ; but that opinion strikes at the 
very root of faith and of the Catholic Church." 
" Certainly it does," he replied. 

To several questions and statements I proposed to 
him he either said at once, or, after a few words in Kuss 
with a priest who had come with him, he replied, 
" Responsio deest, I am at a loss what to answer : this 
question has not been raised in our Church." And he 
went on to say, " All that sounds very well, but is it 
true that St. John Chrysostom has anywhere said that 
the natural substances remain in the Eucharist 1 " 

"Certainly," 1 1 said, "he has." After hearing me atten- 
tively, he observed, " If St. John Chrysostom has said 
it, our Church, and we too, certainly say the same." He 
added, "The Russians have no good systematic theology 
of their own, but read the books of the Catholics, and 
those of the Lutherans and Calvinists. The doctrine 
of the Church, however, though undefined, is orthodox 
and she receives and venerates everything that has 
been delivered by the holy Fathers. And so we are 

1 [Mr. P. seems here to be referring to the famous Epistle to 
Caesarius, which is ascribed to St. Chrysostom on the authority 
of St. John Damascene, Anastasius, and Nicephorus ; but Le Quien 
and Montfaucon, men of critical minds, which the ancients were 
not, give various reasons from internal evidence in proof that it 
is not the writing of St. Chrysostom.] 



90 The commencement of Controversy. 

freer than the Catholics." He meant seemingly that 
the latter have ruled and denned too much. 

He spoke besides of the Russians holding Seven 
Sacraments as against the Protestants. He said also that 
Peter I. and Peter III. and Catharine II. had plundered 
the Church of her property. 

August 16 to 26. As Count Pratasoff was still ab- 
sent, I stayed at Cronstadt, reading Mr. Blackmore's 
translations, and making acquaintance with at least the 
outsides or names of Russian books, to be bought and 
read afterwards. In the Appendix will be found a list 
of as many as forty-four works, besides the Synodal 
Collection of Fathers translated into Russ, sold in 
Petersburg and Moscow. 



CHAPTER XVIH. 
St. Metrophanes. 

E of these days, when I was walking with Mr. 

Blackmore, he pointed out to me in a book- 
seller's shop a picture of St. Metrophanes, first bishop 
of Voronege on the Don, " whose incorrupted relics " 
(which is the Russian phrase * to express canoni- 

1 [If this means that, according to Russian theology, incorrup- 
tion of body is the sufficient test and criterion of sanctity for 
canonization, it is contrary to the doctrine of Roman theologians 
and the practice of the Catholic Church. Supr. p. 81. 

Cardinal Lambertini (Benedict, xiv.) thus writes, de Canoniz. 
lib. iv. t. 8, edit. 1790 : 

" Writers on canonization commonly admit that the incorrup- 
tion (as they speak) of a corpse is to be accounted a miracle, in 
case it is clear that the man, whose corpse is in question, was in 
his lifetime conspicuous for heroic virtues ; and thus they consider 
they escape the difficulty arising from the fact that a great many 
bodies are found incorrupt, the owners of which, when living, 
were not adorned with heroic virtues ; nay, were even stained 
with vices and sins. The teaching of St. Thomas is favourable 
to this view." P. 185. 

" In the beginning of 1729 the corpse of Lorenzo Salviati, who 



92 S/. Metrophanes. 



zation) "were found in 1832." There is an official 
account of his life, miracles, and canonization, of 
which I make the following abridgment. 

It begins by saying that " God is wonderful in His 
saints. With the grace of such gifts Russia has been 
adorned from her first reception of the faith to the 
present day." 

Metrophanes was born in 1623, seemingly in the 
district of Vladimir, and was a secular priest, with 
the name of Michael. In 1663, having lost his wife, 
he became a monk, and was hegemon (head) first of 
the monastery of St. Cosmas at Yakroma, and then of 
the Troitsa at Galicho. In 1681, the Tsar Theodore 
called him to Moscow, and April 2, next year, he was 
consecrated first bishop of Yoronege. 

The formal document goes on to say, that in his first 
pastoral, while exhorting his clergy to diligence, he 
bids them attend carefully to the sick and dying, that 
they may not depart this life without the holy mys- 
teries, nor be deprived of extreme unction. His use of 
this Latin term is remarkable, as it implies that, though 

died in 1609, was found absolutely incorrupt, which led to a 
publication in which it was proved, by an accumulation of 
examples, that not in every instance is incorruption an evidence 
of sanctity, nor is to be accounted a miracle." P. 188. 

" [Some writers add] that that state of the body, by which a 
long resistance is made to corruption, can be [naturally] secured 
by spareness of living and austerity of life." P. 189.] 



St. Metrophanes. 93 



not by origin from Little Russia, he had at some time 
or other been influenced by persons or by books 
from the Latin quarter. He left behind him, besides 
this pastoral, a testamentary address, and another 
MS. filled with passages from the funeral offices, the 
Scriptures, and the Fathers, showing his meditations 
on death, and his deep sense of the value of prayers 
for the departed. He rebuilt a portion of his cathe- 
dral of brick, it having hitherto been of wood, and 
was buried under its wall ; but after a while all the 
building gave way, and thus it was that his sanctity 
was revealed. For the body having to be removed 
for a time, and then restored back again, on both 
translations to and fro, it was found to be incorrupt, 
and thence a rumour that Metrophanes was a saint. 

As to the acts of his life, it is recorded that once 
when the Tsar Peter was building ships at Yoronege 
in order to attack Azoff, Metrophanes, hearing that 
the works were suspended, gave 6000 roubles, all the 
money that he had by him or could raise, as a con- 
tribution to Peter, who on his returning from the war 
in triumph, bestowed on the bishop the title of 
Azoffsky. Another time, when works were suspended 
for want of pay, the bishop gave his imperial master 
4000 roubles ; and still on another occasion 3000, 
towards the payment of the troops, for which he re- 
ceived from Peter a letter of thanks. 



94 $" Metrophanes. 

However, when there was need, he did not shrink 
from withstanding the Tsar to his face, at any price. 
Peter had a house at the Bishop's See, and, in imitation 
of the western fashions, had set up about his dock- 
yard stone figures of heathen divinities. One day he 
sent word for the bishop to come to him; but the 
bishop, seeing these figures of naked, heathen gods 
and goddesses Bacchus, Venus, &c. turned back 
home. The Tsar sent again, and repeated his com- 
mand that Metrophanes should come to him. The 
bishop replied, " Unless the Tsar orders the removal 
of those idols, the sight of which is a scandal, I cannot 
come to him." Peter flew into a passion, and sent a 
third time, with a threat, that, if he did not come at 
once, he would lose his head. The bishop replied, 
" My body is in the Tsar's hands, but there is a God, 
who can destroy both soul and body in hell ; Him I 
fear. It would be better for me to die, than to fail 
in my duty in defending the orthodox faith ;" and he 
began at once to prepare for the worst, and set the 
great bell of his church tolling as if for a coming 
death. The Tsar, startled at the first sound of the 
bell, finding on inquiry what was its meaning, burst 
into a laugh, saying, " I was not in earnest," and 
ordered the statues to be removed. Then the bishop 
came to him immediately, and thanked him both for 
having granted him his life, and still more for having 



St. Metrophanes. 95 

got rid of his idols. From that time Peter always 
showed him the utmost respect. 

In his Testamentary Address composed before his 
death, Metrophanes exhorts " all the people to remain 
in the faith of their forefathers. The Orthodox Catho- 
lic Faith," he continues, " I charge them to love with 
all their souls; and to reverence the Holy Church, 
which is one throughout the universe, and to abide in 
her immovably, and to hold fast to the tradition and 
doctrine of the holy fathers, nor suffer it in any point 
to be tampered with or slighted. For, as without 
faith it is impossible to please God, so also without 
the Holy Eastern Church and her divinely delivered 
doctrine, it is impossible to be saved." 

Then, addressing all, he asks forgiveness for him- 
self, and implores them earnestly and repeatedly with 
tears to pray for his wretched and sinful soul. Before 
his death he received the Holy Viaticum and the great 
schima or habit. So he died, November 23, 1703, 
and the Tsar with his suite closed his eyes and carried 
the coffin into the church and to the place of burial. 



CHAPTER XIX. 
His claim and title to canonization. 

r 1 1 HE official statement then observes : " This 
"*- confirmation of the faith and consolation of the 
Orthodox Church was needed in an age in which scan- 
dals, both in faith and in life, are produced in such 
quantity among peoples calling themselves enlightened, 
and in which the wind, that blows from abroad, wafts 
the seeds of the tares over the surface of our blessed 
country also. And blessed be God, who in renewed 
signs of His grace, has given such a confirmation to 
His faith, such consolation to His Church." 

Thus we are carried on to the movement for the 
bishop's canonization. His memory had ever been 
kept up at Yeronege till the present generation : 
pannychids (nightly services) were often sung for him. 
This, when it lasted, could only be explained by con- 
cluding that he was praying for those in heaven who 
prayed for him on earth ; and in the course of a cen- 
tury the devotion to his tomb had become notable. 



Title of Metrophanes to Canonization. 97 

By 1820, those who thus honoured him, had become a 
great concourse, and miracles were reported. The dis- 
covery of the freedom of his body from corruption, in 
the years following on his death, could not have been 
forgotten, and in the year 1832 fresh repairs of the 
cathedral where he lay were the means of confirming 
it. This led to the Emperor's taking the matter up, 
to the Holy Synod's moving, to the original of the 
Testamentary Address being procured from Moscow, 
and to a commission, sworn to declare the truth? 
being appointed to make examination on the spot, 
both of the state of his body and the report of heal- 
ings at his tomb. 

The issue of the process may be anticipated. At 
the distance of 128 years from his death, in a vault 
of black moist earth, without a lid to the coffin, 
and only one board of it sound wood, the body was 
found entire ; nor was the report concerning the 
healings less satisfactory. Then follow in the formal 
document the details of thirty-one cases of healings, 
exorcisms, &c., effected by Metrophanes, twenty-four of 
them being wrought on women, or girls. This justified 
the Synod in referring their judgment to the Emperor 
Nicholas, who wrote upon the report and memorial they 
presented to him, " I am of the same opinion with 
the Most Holy Synod." In consequence, with great 
pomp and ceremony, in the course of August and Sep- 

H 



98 Title of Metrcphanes 

tember, 1832, amid a crowd of 50,000 people, Metro- 
phanes was added to the number of those prelates who 
have received the honour of canonization. 

The official publication concludes thus: "To the 
Lord God and our Saviour Jesus Christ, the King of 
Kings, &c., &c., be all glory and thanksgiving for ever 
and ever, Amen." And prefixed to the whole there is 
an engraving of the icon of Metrophanes, which had 
been painted partly from a much damaged portrait, 
partly from a dream. 

In this official document we find the names of four 
bishops, Metrophanes of Yoronege, Demetrius of Eos- 
toff, Innocent of Irkutsk, and Tichon of Voronege and 
Zadovsk, who, having all lived and died under that 
spiritual supremacy of the civil ruler which had been 
established (in A.D. 1658, 1660, and 1666) by the Tsar 
Alexis Michaelovich, had three of them already (viz. by 
the year 1840) been at different times declared (by the 
Emperor or Empress for the time being, and by the 
Synod, or Church Commission, instituted by Peter,) to 
be saints. And a like canonization of the fourth was 
expected ; for in A.D. 1840 I heard it said in conver- 
sation, by those who spoke of the recent canonization 
of Metrophanes, that Tichon Zadovski also, who died 
in the reign of Catharine II., was reported to be a 
saint, and there were stories current of his apparition 



to Canonization. 99 

and miracles ; and that some proposal had been made 
to the Emperor Nicholas for his canonization, but the 
Emperor had replied that one was enough, at least, for 
the present. 1 

Of all the four it may be admitted that they seem to 
have been good and pious men ; and that the belief of 
their sanctity was of spontaneous popular growth, not 
by any means caused or suggested by the Synod, or 
by the civil Government. And at the same time, the 
Synod and the civil Government, in giving legal 
sanction to the popular belief, declare such continued 
production of saints down to the present day to be 
a Divine attestation of the continuance of spiritual 
life and orthodoxy in the present State Church of 
Kussia. 

Not only is the existing state of things (viz. the 
system of a Synod, or Church Commission, governing 
the Church under the Emperor, while the Emperor him- 
self is head) alluded to, as if legitimate, in the depositions 
relating to the miraculous healings, but the four Saints 
themselves during their lives appear to have been un- 
resisting subjects and servants of the secular supremacy. 

1 [Mr. Palmer adds that he was eventually canonized, under 
the Emperor Alexander II., in A.D. 1861.] 



H 'J 



CHAPTER XX. 

The Russian Saints viewed in their recognition 
of the Most Holy Synod. 



E Apostle says : " Though we or an angel from 
heaven preach to you any other gospel than that 
ye have received, let him be anathema." The Seventh 
Ecumenical Council expressly, and all the Councils and 
all the Fathers virtually repeat this denunciation ; and 
the Russian Patriarch Nicon, on the Sunday of Ortho- 
doxy in A.D. 1662, applied it to the then recent establish- 
ment of a civil supremacy over the Russian Church, 
anathematizing by name Pitirim, the first vicar of that 
supremacy, and in him all his successors, and the College 
or Synod or Church Commission to be instituted later, 
and all those who should communicate with them ; and 
repeating with the same application words already em- 
bodied in the Greek and in the Slavonic Synodiconfor the 
Sunday of Orthodoxy : " To all that has been done in the 
way of innovation contrary to the ecclesiastical tradition 
and doctrine, and to the constitutions of the holy and 



Rzissian Saints and the Holy Synod. 101 

laudable Fathers, or that shall be done hereafter " (that 
is, in fact, to the acts of A..D. 1666, 1700, and 1721, as 
well as to those of 1658 and 1660, to the institution 
of the Church Commission or Synod by Peter L, as well 
as to that of the personal vicariate of Pitirim, the act 
of the Tsar's father) " Anathema." And in his Eeplies, 
written in A.D. 1663, Nicon argues forcibly and at 
length that the State supremacy as then established, 
to say nothing of any ulterior development in time to 
come, if maintained and continued, was an apostasy 
even from Christianity itself, vitiating the whole body 
of the Russian Church from the least of its members 
to the greatest. 

Now, in words and general phrases, not only the 
four modern Saints canonized by the Synod, but 
even the Synod itself, and the State of which it is 
vicegerent seem to agree with Nicon, and to bear wit- 
ness against themselves. For they insist on the duty 
of adhering not only to Orthodoxy, which is a vague 
word, but also to all the canons and customs of the 
Church, and of the Holy Fathers. The Canons and 
the book itself of the Kormchay are still published as 
having authority : they are named, together with the 
Scriptures, as a rule for the Bishops in the Spiritual 
Regulation 1 of Peter the Great (the fundamental Statute 

1 [" The composition of a Spiritual Regulation for the guidance 
of the Governing Synod, was committed to Theophanes Procopo- 
vich, who made an accurate statement of the composition and object 



IO2 Russian Saints viewed 

of his State Church), and all the Bishops at their con- 
secration still bind themselves by an oath to observe 
and maintain the Canons. But according to the show- 
ing of the Patriarch Nicon the whole law of God, the 
Scriptures themselves, and also the Canons are tram- 
pled under foot by the establishment of state supremacy 
in the Church ; and it is impossible for those who are 
unresisting subjects and instruments of such a supre- 
macy to obey or maintain the Canons. The Patriarch 
Nicon, who under the Tsar Alexis was ready to contend 
even to death, not only for abstract Orthodoxy, or for a 
general expression of respect for the Canons and the 
Fathers, but for each particular doctrine, and for 
each Canon in detail, had cried aloud : "It is not 
lawful to trample under foot Canon XXXIII. of the 
Apostles and Canon XII. of Antioch, and with them 
all the Scriptures, and the Councils, and the Fathers ; " 
and for this he was, not canonized, but degraded from 

of such a Government, of the business which belonged to it, of the 
duties, operations and powers of its members, according to the 
forms of the Ancient Councils, and the rules of the Holy 
Fathers. . . . This important affair was carefully examined 
and discussed by a council convoked in the new capital at the 
commencement of the year 1721, and was witnessed by the 
[great functionaries in Church and State] after it had been 
signed and confirmed by the Tsar's hands. It was afterwards 
again subscribed by all the Bishops," &c., &c. BlacTcmore's 
Mouravieff, p. 283.] 



as recognizing the Holy Synod. 103 

all priesthood, and kept a state prisoner under guard 
fifteen years, to the end of his life. And long after- 
wards in the time of Catharine II., when an Arch- 
bishop of RostofF, Arsenius Matsievich, though born and 
bred under the ecclesiastical supremacy of the State, 
and himself a member of the Synod instituted by 
Peter L, still thought more of his oath to maintain the 
Canons than of his own uncanonical and untenable 
position, and dared to remonstrate against the final con- 
fiscation of the Church property as an act forbidden 
by the Canons, he was for this degraded by the Empress 
and her Synod to be a mere layman, and was kept all 
the rest of his life as a state prisoner in solitary con- 
finement in a casemate in the fortress at Revel ; and 
at his death the utmost care was taken that the people 
should know nothing about him, lest, if they did, they 
should regard him as a confessor. 

But Metrophanes, Demetrius, Innocent, and Tichon, 
it was allowed to the people to venerate, till at length 
the people's veneration obtained their canonization. 
Their virtues, such as they were, were inoffensive, or 
rather useful ; since they seemed to give a sort of re- 
spectability to all those uncanonical innovations in which 
they had acquiesced, or against which, at least, they 
had not practically contended. In the same way, if 
John the Baptist had been willing to say nothing about 
Herodias, Herod, no doubt, would have joined with all 



IO4 Russian Saints viewed 

the people in honouring John, and in regarding him as 
a Prophet. 

In connexion with this subject I may refer to a letter 
of Philaret, Archbishop of Moscow, to Dr. Pinkerton, 
part of which the latter has inserted in his Russia, 
in defence of the Russian Church. In this letter, 
though he speaks of the Tsar Peter having changed the 
Patriarchal for the Synodal Government of the Church, 
the Archbishop makes no allusion to the constitution 
of the Synod, nor to the great question, which had 
already been virtually decided under the Tsar Alexis, 
whether there are two distinct powers, one spiritual and 
the other temporal, or only one. This question, how- 
ever, is settled clearly in the " Spiritual Regulation," 
where the " popular error " of supposing that there are 
two powers is alleged as one chief reason why the 
former Patriarchal Government was superseded by the 
Collegiate. And in the code of Russian Law, pub- 
lished under the Emperor Nicholas, the same subject is 
treated without any ambiguity. In the present " Code 
of the Laws of the Russian Empire," and in the 
"Extract from the Code of the enactments relating 
to the Spiritual Government of the Orthodox Con- 
fession," by M. Theodore Maliutin (ed. 1859), the 
present relations of the Church and State in Russia are 
denned as follows : 

1. " The first-in-rank and dominant Faith in the 



as recognizing the Holy Synod. 105 

Russian Empire is the Christian, Orthodox, Catholic, of 
the Eastern Confession" (vid. vol. i. Fundam. Imp. 
Laws, 40). 

2. " The Emperor, as a Christian Sovereign, is the 
Supreme Defender and Guardian of the dogmas of the 
Dominant Faith, and the Preserver of Orthodoxy and 
of all good Order in the Holy Church. In this sense 
the Emperor is called the Head of the Church " (ib. 
). 

3. " In the government of the Church the autocratic 
power acts through the Most Holy Governing or Direct- 
ing Synod instituted by it " (ibid. 45). 

4. " The original design of laws proceeds either from 
special intention and direct command of His Supreme 
Majesty, or it arises out of the ordinary course of affairs, 
when, during the consideration of them in the Govern- 
ing Senate, in the Most Holy Synod, and the Minis- 
tries, it is considered necessary either to explain and 
supplement any existing Law, or to draw up a new 
enactment. In this case these different authorities sub- 
ject their projects, according to the established order, to 
the Supreme judgment of His Majesty" (ibid. 49). 



CHAPTER XXL 
Ancient Rite of Coronation. 

A UGrUST 22 [o.s.]. Anniversary of the corona- 
-^^ tion of the present Emperor, in 1826, a State 
holiday. 

The Emperor Nicholas is the third sovereign of the 
existing dynasty, for between the deaths of Peter I. 
and Catharine II. there was no dynastic law of suc- 
session, but a series of revolutions ; and Paul, who 
crowned himself at Moscow, April 3, A.D. 1797, and 
at the same time promulgated a statute fixing the 
imperial succession, was the founder of a new 
dynasty. 

That change by which the spiritual power derived 
from the Apostles was suppressed in Russia, or trans- 
ferred (so far as it was possible to transfer it) to the 
Crown, has naturally produced alterations and omis- 
sions in the form and ceremonies used both in the 
election and consecration of bishops, and in the coro- 
nation of sovereigns. The present anniversary affords 



Ancient Rite of Coronation. 107 

a proper occasion for stating the changes which have 
been made in the form and order of a coronation. 

The first coronation is that of the Emperor Leo 
(A.D. 487), who was crowned by the Patriarch or 
Archbishop of Constantinople, Anatolius. A profes- 
sion or engagement but at first less full than it became 
afterwards was required of Anastasius, the fourth 
successor of Leo, by the Patriarch Euthymius, before 
he would crown him, Anastasius being suspected of 
Macedonianism. In like manner the Patriarch Cyriacus, 
demanded guarantees of Phocas (A.D. 606). Afterwards 
this became a fixed custom. And in the earliest 
Russian forms the substance and spirit is the same, 
though there is not the same precise form of requi- 
sition, nor the same written engagement. 

In the older Greek forms the Emperor, on the 
requisition originally of the Patriarch of Constanti- 
nople, professed and promised this : " I, K Emperor, 
do accept, confess, and confirm the Apostolic and divine 
traditions ; also the constitutions and definitions of the 
ecumenical and the local councils. I recognize all the 
rights and customs (TT/OOVO/AIO, KOL Wi^a) of the most 
holy great Church of Grod (i.e. of the Catholic Church, 
and in particular of the Patriarchal Church of Constan- 
tinople). I consent to all that has legitimately, canoni- 
cally, and irrevocably been decreed and determined at 
different places and times, by our holy Fathers. I 



io8 Ancient Rite 



promise to continue constantly a faithful son of the holy 
Church, and to be her defender and protector, &c. &c. 

" And all that the holy Fathers have rejected and 
anathematized I also reject and anathematize with all 
my heart and soul. 

" For the performance of all this I give my word 
before the holy Catholic Church, and at this date 
I have subscribed this with my own hand, and have 
given it to my most holy lord N. the Ecumenical 
Patriarch and to the holy Synod." 

A like engagement to this was required by the 
Kussian Metropolitan of Novgorod, Nicon, inA.D. 1652, 
as a condition before he would consent to become 
Patriarch of Moscow ; and it was given, or rather re- 
peated verbally, and ratified by an oath, in the cathedral 
of the Assumption by the Tsar Alexis Michaelovich 
and all his court. 

According to the law of Christ, as a bishop or a 
priest baptizing a man does this by virtue of his 
spiritual mission and order, and the man baptized 
shows a voluntary submission to the bishop or priest, 
submitting himself to the law of Christ, so also afore- 
time, when the bishop crowned and consecrated a Tsar, 
or Emperor, he did this by virtue of his order ; and in 
the same act the Tsar showed a voluntary submission 
to the bishop. 

In the Old Testament, kings were anointed before- 



of Coronation. 109 



hand to the kingdom by the prophets of God ; and in 
the Psalms it is said of Christ himself, " Thou shalt 
anoint him with the oil of gladness, and thou shalt set 
a crown of pure gold upon his head." Following this 
order, the Patriarch or Bishop aforetime anointed the 
Tsar, or Emperor, first, and crowned and installed him 
afterwards. But now, the Russian Emperor crowns 
himself without grace first, and causes the creatures 
and instruments of his usurped spiritual supremacy to 
anoint him with oil, without grace or meaning, after- 
wards. The ancient form was this : 

In the Liturgy, before the Tpto-ayiov, the Emperor 
being seated in the nave of the church on one raised 
platform or ambon, and the Patriarch on another, the 
Patriarch sent and called the Emperor to him "to 
receive grace;" and then he began to read the prayers 
for anointing, some secretly and some aloud (which 
prayers are quoted, or written out, by Nicon in his 
" Vozranjenia," p. 242 245). And the Emperor came 
down from his own platform, and went up the steps of 
the platform of the Patriarch, and stood there before 
him, bending his head ; and the Patriarch, putting his 
hand upon the Tsar's head, said the two prayers which 
shall be spoken of directly. 



CHAPTER XXII. 
Modern Rite of Coronation. 

it was once ; but now, according to the after-form 
used at the coronation of the Emperor Paul, there 
is only one raised platform, on which the Emperor sits 
alone in the centre of the nave of the church, a carpet 
being laid thence up to the Holy Doors, and the mem- 
bers of the Synod (who may, or not, be bishops), 
and the bishops, stand below on either side of this 
carpet, vis-a-vis to one another. So the Emperor sits 
exactly as a patriarch or primate would sit at the head 
of his clergy, and shows himself visibly in the church 
as Head of the Church and of the so-called Synod 
and of all the clergy. 

Two bishops go up the steps of the Emperor's plat- 
form and address him, in an involved style, to this 
effect : Since by the providence of God, and by the 
operation of the Holy Ghost, and by your own will, 
your Imperial Majesty is now to be Anointed and 



Modern Rite of Coronation. ill 

Crowned, will you be pleased, according to the former 
custom, to confess in the hearing of your loyal sub- 
jects the Orthodox Catholic Faith ?" And the Emperor 
thereupon reads the Creed, having himself, of his own 
free will (as will appear below), enacted that the 
Sovereign of Kussia is to profess the Creed of the 
Grteco-Kussian Church, because he is the Head of the 
Church. But of respecting all the laws of the Church 
and her rights and customs, and abiding always a 
dutiful son of the Church, there is not a word. 

Formerly the Patriarch anointed the Emperor, or 
Tsar, thrice ; saying each time Holy ! ("Ayios). And 
then he set the crown on his head ; and after that he 
led him to the Imperial place, and installed, or en- 
throned him. But now the Emperor sends for the 
regalia, and is assisted, ministerially, by the members 
of the Synod, or bishops, as he takes them and puts 
them on himself. They " minister to him in putting 
them on." And in particular, he takes the crown and 
puts it on to his own head ; the metropolitan or bishop 
saying : "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, 
and of the Holy Ghost." And adding " This is as a 
sign that the Christ invisibly crowns thee." 

The sceptre and globe are given to the Emperor by 
the bishop that is, ministerially and he takes them 
in the same way as he took from them the crown, 
though as the sceptre and the globe are to be held in 



H2 Modern Rite 



the hands which take them, he cannot show visibly, 
as he did with the crown, that he acknowledges in 
them no separate or independent power through whicli 
he is to receive grace from Christ. 

Having crowned himself, the Emperor also crowns 
his Empress ; and she, too, is assisted ministerially to 
put on the Imperial robes. 

Aforetime the Emperor, having received, besides other 
Imperial robes, one clerical vestment, making him a 
" Deputatus" of the Church, went up as Deputatus 
to the north side-door, and led the procession at the 
Great Introit, and after that he took off from him the 
vestments denoting the quality of Deputatus, and he 
remained in his Imperial robes only ; but now, on the 
contrary, that the Emperor has become Head of the 
Church, and source of all Spiritual jurisdiction, and 
Supreme Judge of his own creation, for the most holy 
Spiritual Synod to make him a Deputatus only would 
clearly be unsuitable. He therefore does not lead 
the procession at the Great Introit. 

But there are in the present form additions as well 
as omissions. Such are two prayers unknown to the 
older forms, and used first at the coronation of the 
Empress Anna Ivanovna. These are to be said aloud, 
the first of them by the Emperor or Empress, the 
second by the bishop. The bishop who first said aloud 
the prayer was Theophanes Procopovich. In both of 



of Coronation. 1 1 3 



these prayers all mention of the Church is avoided 
and it is implied that the Emperor or Empress is sole 
governor under God of both Church and State united 
in one body. 

According to the old forms the Emperor or Tsar at 
the proper time for the Communion of the laity went 
up, and was communicated over an antimense set at 
a pillar outside the sanctuary. But according to the 
present form he is pleased to go up to the Holy Doors, 
and there is anointed, and in like manner the Empress. 
And after that he is conducted by two metropolitans 
within the sanctuary, and there communicated before 
the laity, contrary to the old forms. 

Lastly, they brought to the newly-crowned Emperor, 
in one hand ashes or dust and bones, and in the other 
a little fine flax, which, being lighted, flared up and 
was consumed in a moment. And they showed him 
some specimens of marbles, and asked him which he 
would choose for his tomb. But the Emperor Paul, 
after being so crowned by himself as has been above 
related, after the Liturgy, read aloud publicly in the 
church that Act regulating the Imperial Succession by 
which the present dynasty was founded, placed it upon 
the altar of Grod, where, or behind which, it is still 
preserved, in which run the words which he had just 
before read out aloud, that the Sovereign of Russia 
is always to profess the creed of the Grseco-Rus- 

I 



1 14 Modern Rite of Coronation. 

sian Church " because he is the Head of the 
Church." i 

It was for this Emperor's coronation that the present 
Imperial crown of Russia was made. 

1 [Mr. Palmer was so learned in the matters treated of in these 
chapters, and so accurate in his statements, that I do not feel it 
necessary to add the references which might be required of 
another writer.] 



CHAPTER XXII I. 
Preliminary interview with Count Pratasoff. 

QUKDAY, August 25 [o.s.], I returned to Peters- 
*-* burg, and on the following Tuesday I saw 
the Ober-Procuror Count Pratasoff, and presented to 
him two letters of introduction. He asked if I had 
any other letters ; and on hearing of the one from Dr. 
Kouth, he desired me to give that to him, as he repre- 
sented the Emperor with the Synod, and in some 
respects he was also the servant of the Synod, alluding 
to the Greek Great Logothete; and it would be his 
duty to lay it before the bishops (though not even the 
majority of the members of the Synod are necessarily 
bishops). He read it, and when he came to the last 
part desiring for me the Communion, he exclaimed, 
" C'est bien fort." He said, "Your ambassador writes 
here in his note that you wish to learn Russian, and to 
become a member of the Greek Church." " That is a 
mistake," I said, and explained. 

"What you say," he said, "is quite new to me. 
i 2 



1 1 6 First Interview 



Eespecting the Procession, it is not only true, as you 
observe, that the Greeks communicated with the Latins 
for some time after the Latin doctrine had been 
heard of, but that inter-communion was repeatedly 
renewed even after the Latins had been anathematized 
by Photius. However, I am not a theologian, but a 
soldier. And yet, having been brought so much 
among the clergy, I cannot help knowing something 
about such matters. And if I were a bishop, I should 
ask you first about doctrine, and about the Creed ; and 
if you spoke of coming to us, as you might have come 
1000 or 800 years ago, still, there have been such 
divisions in the West since, and so many questions 
have been raised there which never came formally 
before us, that I should require some farther examina- 
tion and agreement." "That is quite reasonable," I 
replied. "Well, then," he continued, "what would 
you say about the Sacraments?" Answer. "About 
the Eucharist, I say that the bread is changed into, and 
becomes, and is, the very Body of Christ spiritually and 
supernaturally, without ceasing to be still physically, in 
the order of nature, bread; wherein we deny the 
Roman doctrine of Transubstantiation. And I have 
noticed that in the Russian version of the XVIII. 
Articles of the Synod of Bethlehem of A.D. 1672, the 
concession of these two correlative terms ' substance ' 
and ' accidents ' has disappeared ; nor is the word 



with Count Pratasoff. 1 1 J 

1 accidents ' admitted in the Russian Catechism ; so 
that neither of those two Russian documents is at 
all inconsistent with orthodox doctrine." 

He seemed surprised at my knowing of the change 
that had been made in the wording of he XVIII. 
Articles of Bethlehem, but admitted that the fact was 
so. He then said : " There may possibly be shades of 
difference (nuances} between churches on a subject so 
entirely beyond our understanding ; but for myself, 
without pretending to speak positively, I think that 
the G-reek Church agrees (that is, agrees unreservedly) 
with the Koman doctrine. There is a difference in 
this, that the Greeks make the invocation of the Holy 
Ghost, and not the bare repetition of Christ's words, to 
complete the consecration. Then there is Confession," 
to which I made no objection. Then he spoke of the 
Icons, and thought it very liberal in me not to call him 
an idolater; "for that," said he, "is the common 
calumny, though they don't call us idolaters for bowing 
to the Emperor, or even to the Emperor's picture." 
" However, as regards the decree of the Second Nicene 
Council," I said, " we reject it, as did nearly all the West 
at the beginning." " No," he objected, " the Popes 
from the first received it, and still receive it." 
" Yes," I replied, " but it was condemned, in spite of 
their reception of it, all over Germany, France, and 
Britain ; and as a matter of private opinion, I prefer 



1 1 8 First Interview 

the judgment of my own Church, and regard that 
custom as inexpedient, at least in England, and liable 
to abuse." He admitted that it might be abused (as 
almost everything else may be abused, and is abused) ; 
and soon afterwards, on my saying, apologetically, that 
in things not essential it is necessary .and inevitable for 
us to yield much to popular ignorance and prejudice, 
to abuses and shortcomings in practice, and to corrup- 
tions and distortions of religious feeling and opinion, 
he answered : " Ah ! you may conceive that we, too, 
in Russia are obliged to do that, as well as you in 
England." 

Then he spoke of the Seven Sacraments ; and he 
would not let me distinguish the two chief sacraments 
of Baptism and the Eucharist from the other five, 
saying, " Our Church knows no such distinction, but 
puts them all absolutely together." 

"But," he said, "you have a chaplain here, and 
another at Cronstadt : do they agree with you 1 And 
my wife has with her an English bonne or companion, 
a good woman enough. I shall have something to 
talk about to them, as this is all new to me. If such 
are really the doctrines of the Anglicans, how is it 
that you do not teach them to the people ? Or how is 
it that the English here, if they have not a minister or 
pastor of their own, will go anywhere, especially to the 
church of the Calvinists, who do not believe even in 



with Count Pratasoff. 1 1 9 

the divinity of our Lord *( Whereas we should think 
that about the same thing as to go and pray with the 
Mohammedans." 

He went on : " We, too, have had a Calvinistic or 
Protestant spirit among us, which Platon " (really 
Theophanes Procopovich, in the time of Peter I.) 
" began : Philaret (the present Metropolitan of Moscow) 
was somewhat that way inclined ; and especially Michael, 
the late Metropolitan of Kieff. But this has all been 
corrected, and now there is an orthodox reaction. We 
said to the Metropolitan of Moscow, that if he wished 
to show himself a good Christian, and humble, he would, 
with the assistance of his brethren, retouch and correct 
his own former Catechism ; and this he did, correcting 
it, and filling up his former omissions." 

He said : "If you live among the clergy, you must 
not judge of all the 40,000 from those you may see here 
at Petersburg, for here there are 70,000 Lutherans, 
Germans, and others, and Lutheran pastors ; and our 
clergy, some of them, get liberalized. But for the pure 
and ancient Greek orthodoxy, you should go into the 
interior." 

Then returning to the doubt he had expressed before, 
he asked, " Do you mean to tell me that the bishops in 
England hold and teach such doctrine as you have now 
been professing? I will not ask if there are any 
among them who are heretics or heretically inclined. 



I2O First Interview ivith Count Pratasoff. 

I know you must have such : we have such, even 
here." 

He said : " In admitting strangers to Communion the 
ordinary course is, first, to ask and ascertain whether 
the person has been baptized, and validly baptized 1 
Next, whether he has been confirmed or christened 1 
If so, then a very slight ceremony is used for recon- 
ciliation. Eut recently, in the case of the Uniats, 
nearly 2,000,000 in number, a great step was made ; 
they were all received en masse, on merely repeating 
the Creed after the Greek form, and acknowledging 
that Jesus Christ alone is the head of the Church " 
(that is in contrast with the Pope). " And this seems 
to have had a good effect 011 the minds of many 
Catholics, and to have set them upon desiring unity " 
(that is unity with the Eastern church) " it being so 
easy. Not long ago a French priest wrote to ask on what 
terms he could be received, as he wished to be Catholic 
(Catholic-Eastern) without being under the Pope." 

I said: "I cannot understand, nor approve, of a 
French priest acting so ; but it seems that he felt 
himself burdened by some Roman decrees or decisions, 
from which he thought he might be free in the Greek 
Communion." 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Issue of the interview. Mr. Palmer's letter for 
the Emperor. 

T COMPLAINED that the Bussians seem to have 
the same faults as we have, viz. that of not think- 
ing of the whole body, nor striving for its reunion, but 
calling the Papists Catholics just as we do, and them- 
selves Eastern or Graeco-Russian, and hesitating about 
the Western Church, neither distinctly recognizing it 
as a part of the whole body, nor distinctly and con- 
sistently anathematizing it as heretical. He said that 
they had struck out of all recent publications, by the 
Emperor's desire, the designations Greek and Graeco- 
Russian, and the like, and had put in the word Catholic 
(Capholic) instead wherever they could. "Still," I 
said, " you have not done enough : and though ' Ortho- 
dox- Catholic 3 has nothing amiss in it, l Eastern- Catho- 
lic ' or * Catholic-Eastern ' involves as much weakness 
as ' Greek ' or ' Grceco-RussianJ or Anglican. The truth, 
orthodoxy, and the Church are all universal, and can be 



1 22 Issue of the Interview. 

no more connected with the East than they can with 
England" I observed to him that he had himself 
more than once in this present conversation called the 
Papists " Catholics" He smiled, and said that he used 
the word in French and German as it is popularly used, 
for the Latins or Eoman-Catholics. " But we too," he 
said, "have the same Greek word, /cafloAi/o), of which the 
French Catholique is a modification ; and we have ever 
used it as belonging to the Orthodox Church. But in 
Russian this word is written and pronounced Capholic ; 
and by this word, so written and pronounced, nobody 
understands the Latins, nor applies it to them ; but 
they, until recently, were always called the ' Latins : ' 
and now, if in conversation or writing they are often 
called Catolics or Roman- Catolics, still the word 
Catolic, so written and pronounced, is purely foreign, 
and equivalent to Western or Latin, French, German, 
or Italian. 1 No one would ever think of applying it to 
the Orthodox Church, or to her members." 

He was very attentive to all I said on this subject, 

1 [What St. Cyril and other Fathers say is, that the very 
word " Catholic " is, (as if by a divine provision) a discriminating 
epithet of the true Church, for popular guidance, before going to 
consider its meaning, in a way, therefore, which is not fulfilled 
by the word " Universal," Ecumenical," or " Capholic." If in 
London Count Pratasoff had to ask the way to his Emperor's 
church, he would not ask for the Catholic or Capholic church, 
but for the Russian or Greek. Capholic is as local as Russian 
is, and far less intelligible. It is not in the Creed.] 



Issue of the Interview. 1 23 

though he did not seem to go along with me when I 
distinguished between the original Apostolical Churches 
of Eome and Italy, France, Spain, &c., and schismatical 
Romanizing communities which have separated from 
older Apostolical Churches, whether in England or in 
the East ; nor did he see the dangerous consequence of 
allowing " Churches " and " Religions " to be constituted 
only by identity of secondary doctrines and opinions, 
not to say even mere rites, without reference to the 
right of jurisdiction, and so admitting the whole 
Roman-Catholic unity to be homogeneous, and all 
equally valid or invalid. 

He complained of Roman ambition, as the Pope 
would still be the first Patriarch if unity were restored : 
but he is not content with that, and must be absolute 
Head. 

He asked whether I had ever sought Communion on 
the same principles from any Latin bishops, and what 
had been their answer. " They told me," I replied, 
" that they must follow the custom, which is to regard 
the Greeks as schismatics and the Anglicans as heretics, 
and to recognize as absolutely one with themselves 
those whom I call Romanizing schismatics in Britain 
and in the East. They also said that an opinion assert- 
ing the Greeks and the Anglicans still to form part of 
the visible Church, and so reopening all those questions 
which have been decided, either by Rome alone, or by 



1 24 Issue of the Interview. 

the Greeks alone, or by the Anglicans alone, is, to say 
the least, extremely temerarious and tending to schism, 
so that a Catholic holding such an opinion could scarcely 
obtain the sacraments." 

He said, " Protestantism has only the Bible, but the 
Church adds the authority of her tradition" I an- 
swered, " Quite true." " What then 1 " he exclaimed ; 
" is yours a dogmatical Church, having fixed doctrine 1 " 
Answer : "Of course it is, else it could not pretend to 
be Orthodox, Catholic, and Apostolic." He asked over 
and over again : " If that be true, how can it be that it 
is so little known ? Why do you not forbid your people 
to pray with the Lutherans and the Calvinists 1 Why 
do you not make Catechisms, and teach distinctly your 
doctrine 1 " Answer: " At any rate, if there is any good 
in the Church of England, it must come out and show 
itself now : for since the admission of Protestant 
Dissenters and Irish Papists into Parliament (in 1828 
and 1829) the axe has been laid at her root as a mere 
establishment." "That is quite just," he said. 

He desired me to write him a letter, in any language 
I pleased, stating what I wished, and he said, " I will 
have it translated. The Court will be back here in ten 
or twelve days, and then I can show it to the Emperor 
when I next make my report, or refer to it and take his 
pleasure. In the mean time, as your intentions seem to 
be good, and what you are doing is uncommon, we will 



Issue of the Interview. 1 2 5 

do what we can to help you. I doubt about your living 
in the Academy, though certainly the white or secular 
clergy have less instruction than the black ; but we will 
see. If you will come to-morrow at one o'clock to the 
Synod, I will present you to my colleague, M. Moura- 
vieff, the Unter-Prokuror, who, though also a layman, 
is a young man of great information in ecclesiastical 
matters. It is only our duty to do what we can for you, 
as unityis the duty of the Church, and we all pray for it." 
Previously he had said of the idea of living in the 
Lavra itself that there might be awkwardness, as the 
thing was so new and unusual. On the one hand, they 
would not know what to think if they saw .me not 
doing like themselves ; and on the other, there might 
be rules and restraints which would not suit me. I 
said : " As to the mode of life, you need be under no 
scruple for me, as I am not particular ; and as for rules 
and practices, I am ready to conform to whatever may be 
desired, so long as there is nothing (and I cannot 
conceive that there should be anything) incapable of 
being done in a good and Christian sense." He smiled 
and said : "It will be best not to be in too great a 
hurry, but to wait a little, that we may see our way." 

According to his desire I wrote in Latin the same 
day to Count Pratasoff a letter, the chief part of which 
was as follows : 



126 Mr. Palmer's Letter 



" EXCELLENCY, 

" You ask why I have come to Kussia, and 
what it is I wish to obtain from the Emperor's 
grace 1 I reply thus : After having become a 
Fellow of Magdalen College in the University of 
Oxford, I thought that in no way could I better obey 
the statutes of our founder, or prepare for that 
ecclesiastical and academical life which was before 
me, or better serve the needs of the particular British 
Church in which I had been baptized, than by travelling 
abroad, while yet young, and examining carefully those 
theological questions which have caused such disastrous 
and long-standing divisions between the Apostolical 
Churches. For, since I well knew that I had been 
baptized, not into any English, or Roman, or Western, 
or Eastern, but into a Catholic or Ecumenical faith, 
religion, and Church, while I saw this Catholic and 
Apostolic body, according to that definition of it which 
I had received from my immediate Mother, the parti- 
cular British Church, separated into different, and 
(what is horrible to think of) into hostile communions, 
therefore it seemed desirable to know exactly the truth 
about those accusations which are commonly made by 
foreigners against ourselves, and that not only by read- 
ing controversial books written by our own people, but 
also by hearing with my ears opposite parties, and 
further to obtain as exact a knowledge as possible of 



for the Emperor. 1 27 

the theology of the other Apostolical Churches, that 
so, with God's help, I might later in life, while devoting 
myself to the study of books, be better furnished and 
better able to treat of controversies in the University 
of Oxford, with the hope and aim, that, when the 
causes of difference and hostility come to be more 
exactly understood, those mutual suspicions, and even 
perhaps errors of opinion in non-essential matters (for 
I speak not of the necessary faith itself) might more 
easily be mitigated and done away; and in a word, 
that there might be a better treatment of those 
questions, from the clearing up of which, either in our 
own time or in that of our descendants, the most desir- 
able unity of the Church may be restored. 

" So when with these views I had first, beginning in 
1833, visited more than once the churches of the 
Latins on the Continent, and had made myself 
acquainted with their theology (that is, the doctrines 
of the Pope of Eome, to whom they are subject), I 
next examined the opinions of the Calvinists and 
Lutherans. And now with the approval of the 
President of my college, I have come to the Eastern, 
and in particular to the Russian Church. 

" I humbly ask the favour of the Emperor for my 
undertaking ; that he be pleased to recommend me to 
the venerable clergy of his empire, in order that living 
in the Spiritual Academy, or in some monastery, or 



128 Mr. Palmers Letter 

under some bishop, or otherwise, according as may be 
judged most convenient, I may, with the help and in 
the society of ecclesiastics, learn the Russian language, 
and study the doctrines, discipline, and ritual of the 
Church. If this request is granted, I hope that here- 
after by translating Russian books into English, I may 
do something towards promoting in England, and 
especially in the University of Oxford, a fuller and 
more accurate knowledge of the Apostolical Churches of 
the Easterns ; towards strengthening by the contempla- 
tion of Eastern Catholicism our own Churches, which 
are now attacked at once by the Papists and by the 
heretical Protestants, and no longer exclusively 
defended as before by the State ; and finally, by 
softening prejudices and antipathies, towards the 
healing of the present cruel dismemberment of the 
Catholic Church and the reunion of the whole body in 

mutual love 

"Having heard that there are in the Spiritual 
Academy at Petersburg some who read English, I have 
brought a selection of books, of the works of our best 
divines, as an offering to the library of the Academy. 
Some of these have been given on purpose by their 
authors, who are still living, and members of the 
University of Oxford, and who, knowing my intention, 
wished to show that they work and pray not only for 
their own people, nor only for Westerns, but for their 



for the Emperor. 129 

Eastern brethren also, and for the whole ecumenical 
Church. 

"As regards myself personally, I think it right to 
add, that from the time I have come within the dioceses 
of the Russian bishops, I recognize no other church as 
true and legitimate in these countries, nor adhere in 
will at least, to any other jurisdiction than theirs. 
Not as if I came from any heresy or schism seeking to 
be reconciled by the Church of God which is in Russia, 
but being a Catholic Orthodox Christian, as I trust, and 
coming from a Catholic and Orthodox and Apostolical 
Church, I seek from the legitimate and canonical 
bishops of the country, in whatever country I may be, 
and from each one of them in his own diocese, the 
common right of communion. 

" This is the answer I have to make to your Excel- 
lency; and to your discretion, and to the Emperor's 
gracious favour, I commend my request, praying to our 
Lord Jesus Christ for nothing else but that which may 
conduce to the peace and concord not only of all the 
Churches, but also of all Christian States. I am your 
Excellency's most humble and obedient servant, &c., 
&c. 

"Petersburg, August 27 [o.s.], 1840." 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Interviews with M. M our avieff arid the Archpriest 
Koutnevich. 

"Y'TTEDNESDAY, August 28 [o.s.]. I went at 
1 p.m. to the Synodal Palace, and was there 
presented to M. Mouravieff, a tall, indeed gigantic 
man for a cavalry officer, and needing a strong horse to 
carry him. In reply to his expressions of surprise and 
doubt, like those of Count Pratasoff, I said Whatever 
dangers there may be ahead for the Anglican Church, 
Protestantism is no longer one of them ; that monster 
is now dead. And in this respect we may even benefit 
the Russians and Greeks, who now use, too often, either 
Popish or else Lutheran and Calvinistic books, and 
among whom a desire to be spiritual rather than formal 
or superstitious has produced a Protestantizing ten- 
dency, of which they do not know the danger. We 
know it by long and sad experience ; and we are now 
at length finding even in the free use of the Bible 
itself the antidote to the abuse of the Bible. He said 



M. Mouravieff and the A rchpriest. 1 3 1 

that they had such a tendency as I spoke of, but it was 
now corrected. 

As to the Holy Eucharist, he admitted that the 
Latins had had great indirect, and sometimes also direct, 
influence in the Levant, between the capture of Con- 
stantinople and the end of the seventeenth century, 
and that there were some manifest Latinisms in the 
XVIII. Articles of Bethlehem of A.D. 1672, which have 
been omitted or corrected in the recently-published 
Russian translation. And yesterday, when Count Prata- 
soff had shown me in the Full Catechism of the Eussian 
Church a passage taken in substance from the XVIII. 
Articles of Bethlehem, but disclaiming all intention of 
denning the manner of the change in the Eucharist, 
and I had remarked that the fact of adopting in the 
Catechism of this disclaimer without inserting also those 
correlative terms of " substance " and " accidents " 
which are found together with the same disclaimer in 
the XVIII. Articles, showed that the Russian Synod 
thought those Latin terms to be too like a definition, 
he admitted that this was altogether a scholastic 
question. 

M. Mouravieff had not observed another very delicate 
correction of a passage which went too near the 
Romish Purgatory ; but he admitted that they had 
corrected their incautious admissions of the Tridentine 
Canon of the Holy Scriptures ; and had omitted a 
K 2 



132 M. Mouravieff and 

question and answer which denied that the laity were 
free to read them. " Yes," he said, " we made some 
alterations, and corrected some things which were not 
in conformity with the doctrine of our Church ; nor, 
indeed, with that of the Greek Fathers." He asked, 
with apparent surprise, how I came to know of this 1 

In the meantime Count Pratasoff had shown that 
Latin letter which I, by his desire, had written to him, 
and which has been given above, to the Archpriest 
Vasili Koutnevich, High Almoner of the Army and 
Fleet. He ranks last of the eight members of the 
Synod, and so has always to give his opinion first on 
any matter brought before it. Count Pratasoff now 
came with him out of the room in which the Synod 
sits for business, and presented me to him. We con- 
versed for a short time in Latin. He said he had read 
Dr. Routh's letter, and my letter to Count Pratasoff; 
and after some other words he said, " If any one would 
be admitted to Communion in the Sacraments, he 
must believe all that the Orthodox Eastern Church 
believes." 

" All," I replied, " that the Catholic or Ecumeni- 
cal Church, and not that the particular Western or 
Eastern, or other local Church requires to be believed." 

" He must profess," the Archpriest repeated, " the 
same faith with the Eastern Church." 

Answer. " I do profess, I hope, the same faith with 



the A rchpriest Koutnevich. 1 3 3 

the Eastern Church; for the Catholic faith is one, 
whether in the West or in the East, and if there is not 
an agreement between the Eastern and the Western 
Churches in the essential faith, either the one side or 
the other must be heretical. But I trust that I, and 
the Church from which I come, are Orthodox and 
Catholic ; and we suppose the Churches of the 
Easterns to be Orthodox and Catholic : consequently, 
the British Church supposes that there is no disagree- 
ment respecting the necessary faith between herself 
and the Orientals. 

Archpriest. " If you hold the faith and Creed of the 
Eastern Church, you may be admitted to Communion. 
But first, do you believe the Creed of Mcaea and Con- 
stantinople 1 Answer. Certainly I do. Archpriest. 
The Trinity? the Divinity of the Son? and the 
Incarnation ? Answer. Certainly. 

Archpriest. But what do you say about the Pro- 
cession of the Holy Ghost? Answer. I receive all 
that the Latin Fathers have said, no less than all that 
the Greek Fathers have said. I know that there has 
been a verbal difference between some of the ancient 
Fathers of the two languages, but there was in all of 
them one and the same faith. We cannot absolutely 
condemn the words, "And from the Son," without 
condemning some of the Latin Fathers, which we are 
so far from doing that we rather, on the contrary, 



134 M. Mouravieff and 

believe the Greeks to have agreed virtually with them, 
though they use a different form of speech. But as 
regards the mere question of form, we may confess that 
the Pope of Rome ought not to have altered, by any 
interpolation even of orthodox words, the Creed of the 
Ecumenical Councils. And this at first the Pope 
himself, Leo III., said. The same Pope, however, 
allowed that the sense of the words was Orthodox, and 
might be taught. We are far from requiring the 
Greeks to insert the " Filioque ;" and therefore I am 
ready to recite with them in their churches the Creed 
without the addition." 

When I said that the Pope had not a right to alter 
the form determined by the Ecumenical Councils, he 
smiled approvingly ; but without continuing, he said : 
" We will talk of this more fully some other time ;" and 
he invited me to come and see him at his own house. 

I said that such a primacy of divine right as was 
proposed by the Doctors of the Sorbonne to Peter the 
Great may be admitted for the Pope, if only the same 
limitation of its exercise be allowed : for the whole 
organization of the Catholic Church was from the Spirit 
of God : consequently the preeminence of all the great 
sees (of Rome, Alexandria, and Antioch), and especially 
that of the first see was of divine right : and there are 
many signs of a divine institution. Count Pratasoff 
and M. Mouravieff agreed, saying : " Yes, yes cer- 



the A rchpriest Koutnevich . 135 

tainly; as the precedence of Alexandria also and of 
Antioch may be said to be of divine right. But if we 
stretch that divine right too far, and make the defi- 
nition of the Church to depend on the will of the Pope, 
there is an end to all those liberties which the Councils 
so jealously guarded as based upon the will of Christ." 
They said : "If the Pope would be contented with 
what is his due, he would always be the first of 
Patriarchs : nobody could take from him what he has : 
nay, his influence, his legitimate influence, would be 
all the greater" 

I spoke of the position which the Greek Church 
might occupy, and of the duty of interfering to restore 
the peace of the whole Church. In old times every 
bishop knew himself to share the responsibility of the 
government of the universal Church ; and they wrote 
letters, and sent messengers, and went themselves from 
one end of the world to the other, to take part in ques- 
tions arising there, or to seek assistance for themselves : 
whereas now we English and you Greeks maintain 
indeed the doctrine of the universal visible unity, but 
in practice we both rest contented with our own part, 
which consequently can with difficulty, and only by 
the help perhaps of the civil government, maintain 
ourselves even against a false theory of Catholic 
unity (the Roman) which does actively embrace the 
whole world." 



136 M. Mouravieff and the Archpriest. 

They invited me to be present at the Liturgy in the 
Nefsky Lavra on Friday next, the 30th, the anniversary 
of the Peace of Nystadt, of the Translation of the 
Relics of St. Alexander Nefsky in A.I). 1724, and the 
name's-day of the hereditary Grand Duke. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Prince Alexander Galitsin, Grand Master of 
Requests. 

r I 1HE same day on board the Cronstadt steamer 
~~^ I sat next to a Eussian, who spoke to me in 
good English. He was going down with his son, a lad 
of nineteen, who was about to start on his first voyage, 
a voyage round the world. He had known well, he 
said, the late Count Joseph De Maistre. He was a 
very nice old man, but very bigoted. He tried to in- 
troduce the use of a new name or nickname, "the 

Photian Church," instead of the " Greek" or "Eastern 



Church." He (the speaker) had been in Spain, and 
had observed great fanaticism there ; and he thought 
that there was a deep mixture of political ambition in 
the Papal Communion. He admitted that there had 
been a Protestantizing spirit in some of the Russian 
divines, mentioning Philaret of Moscow as having been 
foremost in showing that tendency. But it has now 
been checked. He praised Consett's book (the trans- 



138 Prince Alexander Galitsin, 

lation of the Spiritual Eegulation, 1 &c.). He spoke of 
himself as possessing a pretty good library of English 
books. He observed that the Bishops in England have 
been too much enslaved by the State since the time of 
Henry VIII. and Elizabeth ; and he regretted that 
Protestantism which mars so much that is good in the 
English character. He admitted that Latin influences 
had prevailed extensively in the Levant since the fall 
of Constantinople, and had tinged, on points not con- 
troverted, many Greek writings ; and he was aware that 
the XVIII. Articles of the Synod of Bethlehem of 
A.D. 1672 have been corrected in some points in the 
Kussian translation of them recently published by the 
Synod. 

As I was speaking of my purpose in coming to 
Russia, he said that a year or more ago he had seen a 
memorial, which had been presented either to the Grand 
Duke Alexander the Heir Apparent, or to the Emperor 
at, the Russian Embassy in London. This is what I 
had myself presented at Oxford in A.D. 1839, and it 
had found its way in due course to the person who now 
spoke of it, Prince Alexander Galitsin (not the same as 
had been Minister in the last reign and President of 
the Bible Society), as he was the Grand Master of the 
Requests. 

He asked whether I had any introduction, and to 
1 [ rid. supr. p. 101, note.] 



Grand Master of Requests. 1 39 

whom \ and said that the introduction to Count Pra- 
tasoff was the very best I could have. He said that 
the Russian clergy have been reduced too low in society 
by the acts of Peter I., Peter III., and Catharine II., 
and that they are not sufficiently independent, espe- 
cially in the country. A commission has lately been 
employed in collecting information as to the position 
and maintenance of the clergy in other countries of 
Europe, and it is intended to do something to raise 
their condition; and there is certainly, he added, a 
great deal doing to improve their education. 



CHAPTER XX VI I. 

Mr. Palmer's first controversial Disciission with 
the Archpriest. The Divine Procession. 

A UG-UST 31 [o.s.]. I visited the Archpriest 
Koutnevich. He returned to the Procession of 
the Holy Ghost, and said that the Latins might with 
equal justice infer that the Son must be from the 
Father and the Holy Ghost, as that the Holy Ghost 
was from the Father and the Son. " But that," I said, 
" would be to deny or reverse the relative order of the 
Persons." I said also, " In condemning the Latin 
doctrine, you seem to condemn those Latin Fathers 
who held it before the schism." " Those Latin 
Fathers," he replied, " spoke only of a Procession from 
the Son in fame, and to the creatures," alluding perhaps 
to the explanation given at .Rome to St. Maximus the 
Martyr, and to his words, "missionem nimirum Pro- 
cessionem intelligentes." I answered, " That does not 
seem to us true either of the Greek Fathers or of the 
Latin ; and, whatever individuals or particular Churches 



First Discussion with the Archpriest. 141 

may think, the difference between Latins and Greeks 
on this point can only be authoritatively settled by an 
Ecumenical Council. In the meantime there has 
actually been union at different times during 200 
years, even after this controversy had commenced." 

I showed him my Latin Introduction to the 
XXXIX. Articles, and he read over at once those parts 
of it which treated of the Procession, of Transubstan- 
tiation, of the Eucharistic Sacrifice, and of Icons. At 
p. 78 (Latin), he read thus : l "As regards the faith 
in the Holy Ghost, like reflections may be made. For, 
if we were to say that He proceeds from the Father 
and from the Son, in such wise as that there should be 
two principles, and, as it were, fountains of Deity, 
we should be introducing a plurality of Gods : if we 
were to say that He proceeds from the Father only in 
such sense as to deny that He proceeds also from the 
Son, or were to say that He proceeds indeed through 
the Son (Sia), but so that He receives His Essence 
from the Father alone (Sia only meaning ^era), and is 
derived through the Son only as through the hands of 
a dispenser, we should derogate from the co-equal unity 
of the Son with the Father." 

1 [This and the quotations which follow are from Mr. Palmer's 
own English of his Latin work. He does not himself, in quoting 
his Latin, give his passages at full length, nor are they here so given 
from his English ; nor does this omission involve any obscurity.] 



142 First Discussion with the Archpriest. 

Here the Archpriest interposed, "Quomodo autem 
imminuetur, how do we derogate from the co-equal 
unity of the Son with the Father, if the Holy Ghost 
receives His Essence from the Father alone, any more 
than it is a derogation from the co-equal unity of the 
Holy Ghost with the Father and Son, if the Son 
receives His Essence from the Father alone 1 " N.B. 
The objection is valid, but, in making 'it, the Arch- 
priest seemed to accept for himself and for his Church 
the proposition that the Holy Ghost receives His 
Essence from the Father only, whereas it is the Greek 
doctrine, no less than the Latin, that the Holy Ghost 
receives His Essence from the Son as well as from the 
Father, inasmuch as He receives third in order that 
Divine Essence, which already is the Son. What the 
Greeks do contend for is, that what the Holy Ghost 
receives from the Father only, is not His Essence, but 
His Personality. 

He continued reading : " Nor (otherwise) should 
we be believing the words of Christ, who says, 'As 
the Father hath life in Himself, so the Son,' &c. ' I 
am the Resurrection and the Life,' &c. &c. Moreover, 
in the Mysteries of the Liturgies, it is the Father who 
gives the Bread of Life, it is the Son also who gives 
the same ; we invoke the Father, we invoke also the 
Son, to sanctify, even to come Himself to sanctify, the 
gifts set before him. For it is not as any creature 



The Divine Procession. 143 

that the Son has in Himself life received from the 
Father, but even-as the Father Himself has life in 
Himself, that all may honour the Son, even-as they 
honour the Father. Nor is grace in the Son only in 
passing (in transitu) as by a channel, but, as the Father 
is the Wellspring and Origin of life and grace, inhering 
in Himself and proceeding out from Himself, so the 
Son also is the Wellspring and Origin of the same life 
and grace inhering in Him as He inheres in the Father, 
and proceeding not separably as from two principles, 
but inseparably as from one principle from the Father 
and the Son, or, as the Greeks say, from the Father 
through the Son, so that a principality in originating 
may be ascribed to the Father, without any derogation 
to the indivisible equality of the Son." 

As for all this reasoning, he seemed to think it quite 
wide of the mark ; as relating only to the dispensation 
of the Holy Ghost in time and to the creatures. How- 
ever, he ought certainly to have observed, and he did 
not observe, at least not distinctly, that, beyond all 
this, the Greek Church holds and teaches that the 
Holy Ghost is from all eternity the proper Spirit of 
the Son, not communicated, but inherent as His own 
by this very fact that He proceeds from the Father, 
and is the Spirit of the Father, third in order, the Son 
being already, in relative order, interposed as second. 

When he came to the words " not as any creature," 



144 First Discussion with the Archpriest. 

&c., he said that we ought not to make any additions 
by reasoning on a subject so utterly above our reach. 
True, I would answer, such a -self-restraint may be 
good and pious for us individuals, nay, even for indi- 
vidual Saints, as St. Gregory Nyssen, or St. Cyril of 
Jerusalem ; but neither we nor they can limit the 
sense of the Fathers generally, nor of the Church, or 
prescribe restrictions on the Holy Ghost Himself, who 
inspires the Church and leads her into all truth ; and 
the Archpriest could scarcely mean to find fault with 
that particular sentence against which his remark was 
uttered. 

At the words " from the Father through the Son," he 
said, " The Greek doctrine is more than that, and does 
not injure that truth, which you represent it as 
injuring," that is, does not injure the indivisible co- 
equality of the Son with the Father. By " more than 
that " perhaps he meant " more than a Procession in 
time, and with "respect to the creatures." 



CHAPTER XXVIIL 

Discussion continued: Transubstantiation, the 
Mass, and Icons. 

TTE went on reading ,at page 88 : "The most im- 
-* portant controversy is that which is carried on 
on both sides respecting the most Holy Mystery of the 
Eucharist, in which they will have it to be heresy that 
we deny Transubstantiation. We do deny that Tran- 
substantiation, which taking away the natural substances 
of bread and wine, leave only their accidents after con- 
secration If any one desires that subtilty of 

school-men who introduce their metaphysics into re- 
ligion, is he at once to be accounted a heretic 1 ? for, 
whether that opinion be true or false, it is joined by no 
necessary consequence with the integrity of the creeds ; 
nor, if it be denied, is any article of the necessary faith 
directly or by consequence affected." 

"Nos vero transubstantiationem credimus et doce- 
mus," interposed the Archpriest ("we both believe 
Transubstantiation and teach it," referring to my denial 

L 



146 Discussion continued. 

of it in my Latin work, pp. 88, 89) ; then he went 
on reading at page 88 : " That the Bread of the 
. Eucharist is changed, transelemented (or, if any one like 
to say transubstantiated, we will not make objection), 
does not at all make it consequent that the natural 
substance of bread is done away, and the natural body 
of Christ come instead of it." 

"Mini autem," interrupted the Archpriest in con- 
tradiction to my " minime necessario," " hoc necessario 
sequi videtur." Presently when he read my sentence : 
"The Bread is truly, but spiritually changed, and 
into the true but spiritual Body of the Lord " (p. 89, 
Latin), he interposed with " I do not like those words 
'truly but spiritually,'" and he repeated two or three 
times " Spirituale corpus ! " saying that this favoured 
the consubstantiation of the Lutherans. I answered 
that the Lutherans might salva fide assert the union of 
two substances in the Eucharist in the sense in which 
certain of the Fathers assert the same, not however a 
union of two natural substances, nor so as to deny the 
change of a natural substance into a supernatural or 
spiritual. I said also that the word " spiritual " is not 
so to be understood in contrast to the word " natural " 
as if it implied two bodies ; for though our Lord, direct- 
ing His remarks against the carnal sense of the Jews 
said, " The flesh profiteth nothing, it is the spirit that 
quickeneth," still He spoke this of His own true 



Transiibstantiation. 147 

Body, which He certainly did not mean to explain 
away, as if the eating and drinking Him were only a 
metaphor but confirming its reality by a double Amen, 
just as in His conversation with Mcodemus He had 
confirmed by a double Amen the truth of Regeneration. 

Then the Archpriest continued reading what I said 
on the analogy of the natural and supernatural creation 
of the baptismal birth and the Eucharistic food, 
urging that "the new birth or Regeneration has not 
done away with the former birth or generation, but has 
repaired it, sanctified it, ennobled it, and transferred it 
to its due, decreed, predestinated perfection" (p. 91). 

Here the Archpriest expressed approval and praise, 
and read on to " As that very thing itself, which is fed 
by bread and wine. ... is transferred to a new life by 
the saving Laver of Baptism, without cessation of its 
former life, so also the natural food of bread and wine, 
by which the natural creature is fed, by the sanctify- 
ing invocation of the Holy Spirit, is changed, is trans- 
elementated, or even, if any one pleases, is transubstan- 
tiated, without cessation of its natural substance into 
that heavenly food by which the new life of the 
regenerate is to be sustained" (pp. 91-92). And he 
ended his reading with the next sentence, " It remains 
for the Romanists to prove their destruction of the 
elements to be necessary to the truth of the Sacrament, 
and that this is borne out by testimonies of the Scrip- 
L 2 



148 Discussion continued. 

tures, before they anathematize whole churches of God 
for affirming that the natural substance of Bread and 
Wine remains even after the change in the Sacrament of 
the Eucharist" (p. 92). 

Upon this he observed that the analogy from which 
I reasoned appeared to him far-fetched, obscure, and 
not exact enough. " On the whole," he said, " we agree 
with Rome -on this point." And there are stories 
related even of miraculous appearances to doubting 
priests (the miracle of Bolsena he was alluding to, no 
doubt l ) who saw flesh and blood without the veil of 
the accidents, and these only on their penitent prayers 
resumed their former appearances of bread and wine, 
so that the priest could receive them. 

I spoke of those passages of Theodoret, St. John 
Chrysostom, St. Ephrem Syrus and G-elasius, which 
assert the nature or substance of bread to remain 
after consecration. He had never heard of those 
passages, and doubted if there were any such. " But 
if there are," he said, "those fathers must have ex- 
pressed themselves vaguely, and their words must be 
interpreted so as to agree with the more numerous and 
plainer passages." I said : "It is not a case of vague 
or inaccurate language, but in different respects (ac- 
cording as the order of nature, or the order of grace 

1 [Elsewhere, similar miracles are mentioned as having taken 
place in Russia.] 



Transubstantiation. 149 

only, or both orders together are spoken of) three 
different and seemingly inconsistent modes of speech 
are used systematically." Thinking of the change ac- 
cording to the order of Grace, St. Cyril of Jerusalem 
says: It seems to be bread, but here you must not 
follow your senses but firmly believe that it is the 
Body of Christ. In another respect, thinking of the 
order of nature St. John Chrysostom and others say 
that the bread does not depart from its proper nature ; 
and again, thinking of both orders of nature and grace 
together, they say that in this food there are two 
things, one natural and the other heavenly or super- 
natural ; and in this sense St. Cyril of Jerusalem says 
that it is not mere or bare bread, that is, bread indeed 
according to the order of nature, but it is also the 
Body of Christ according to the order of Grace. I 
quoted that passage in which the Eutychian argues that 
as the bread ceases and passes into the Body of Christ, 
so the human nature of Christ ceases and passes into 
the divine. Before I could go on, he accepted the as- 
sertion of the Eutychian saying, that it was perfectly 
true, though improperly adduced to defend a heresy. 
When I told him the answer of the Orthodox, he was 
quite astonished f the whole was new to him. " I have 

2 [The passage from Theodoret to which Mr. P. refers is genuine, 
but admits of explanation. Theodoret certainly says or implies 
that after consecration, the nature or substance of Bread and 



150 Discussion continued. 

never heard of such a passage, I should like to see it : 

Wine remains, but he seems to use the words, not in their theo- 
logical sense, but for what we now call " accidents " of a thing, 
that is, for its qualities, properties, belongings, surroundings, 
externals, for all that makes up its description, or is the medium 
of communication between one thing and another. 

1. This is what is commonly meant by " substance " and 
" nature ; " sometimes they stand for a thing, sometimes for the 
attributes or characteristics of a thing. Thus in Scripture the 
Prodigal Son is said to have " wasted his substance," that is, what 
belonged to him, or his property ; and so Theodoret uses the word, 
Rel. Hist. 13, p. 1211, where the Latin translates " it " by " opes." 
Again, whereas in Psalm XCIV. p. 1286, he speaks of "dry and 
moist qualities," he speaks in Eran. p. 116 of a " moist and dry 
substance;" but in its theological sense "substance" can neither 
be moist or dry, bitter or sweet, bright or dark, but is that to 
which these properties or "qualities" belong, though distinct 
from them. 

2. The same remark applies to the word "nature;" it may 
indeed denote being, or that which is ; but it commonly means 
the properties, laws, &c., of being, as when we speak of an 
amiable nature, an ill-natured man, the nature of things, the 
nature of the case, &c. 

3. And lexicographers recognize this meaning. Thus, we read 
in Liddell and Scott's lexicon as the first meaning of the word, 
" ovffia that which is one's own, one's property," and " tyixris, 
the essence, inborn quality, property, or constitution of a person 
or thing." 

4. And, in the very passage which is the occasion of this note, 
Theodoret speaks of our Lord's body having " form and figure 
and circumference, and in a word (airaa.Tr\us etTreti/) the body's 
substance," as if "substance" was the sum total of those attri- 
butes. 

5. When, then, he says, " The substance of the bread remains 



Transubstantiation. 151 

but, whatever it is, it must be interpreted so as to agree 
with other plainer passages." I went on to observe 
that the nature of this argument makes it impossible 
to ascribe to the Orthodox answer any more than to the 
Eutychian any meaning short of the very substance of 
the bread. It would be nothing to the purpose for the 
Orthodox to reply : You are caught in your own net ; 
for though what you say is true, yet the appearances or 
accidents remain after the consecration. The Euty- 
chian had been arguing not about accidents, but about 
the very things themselves, and as he said, the bread, 
the very bread itself ceases and becomes the Body of 
Christ, so the very human nature of Christ ceases and 
passes into His Divine Nature. 

The Archpriest said, " As for the use of the words 
substance and accidents, the Russian Church agrees with 
the Roman ;" alluding, I suppose, to the Orthodox Con- 
fession of Peter Mogila, 1643. But when I spoke of the 
influence of Latinism both in the Levant and in Little 
Russia in past times, of that long time during which 

after consecration," he means its qualities and belongings; and, 
indeed, to mark this, he expressly adds, " The holy symbols remain 
as before in their substance, fashion, and form." And, when the 
Eutychian denies it, he seems to be denying that the con- 
secrated element can religiously be called bread; he asks, "After 
consecration how do you call it ? " He could not mean to deny 
that what the senses apprehended was bread ; nor to hold the word 
" transubstantiation " in the Tridentine sense.] 



1 5 2 Discussion continued. 

many patriarchs of Constantinople were under the 
influence of the French, and other Roman Catholic 
ambassadors and especially of the affair of Cyril 
Lucar ; of Peter Mogila's having studied at Paris, and 
of the patriarch Dositheus of Jerusalem having followed 
too minutely in 1672 the suggestions of the French 
Ambassador M. De Nointel, he fully admitted all that I 
said : and when I spoke of the admissions in the XVIII. 
Articles of the Synod of Bethlehem, of the Tridentine 
Canon of Scripture, and of the impudence of those 
obsequious Greeks in taxing Cyril with ignorant folly 
and malignity, because he distinguished between the 
truly canonical Scriptures and the Apocrypha, he fairly 
laughed. I mentioned also the near approach made in 
those XVIII. Articles to the Roman doctrine of Purga- 
tory, and the admission of the Roman definition of the 
manner of the change in the Holy Eucharist by sub- 
stance and accidents. This the Archpriest defended, 
saying that the Eastern Church on this point agreed 
with the Roman. I replied : " Nevertheless, you 
have had the wisdom to correct, in your Russian 
version of the XVIII. Articles of the Synod of Beth- 
lehem, all those three points." " What do you mean?" 
he said, smiling. And on my replying that I had 
shortly before been comparing their version with the 
original Greek, he exclaimed with manifest astonish- 
ment : " Why ! you do not know Russian already ? 



The Mass. 153 



And that is only just done : it is the very last thing 
we have been about. And is that already known at 
Oxford?" with a look and gesture of perfect incre- 
dulity. I explained how I had accidentally brought 
out with me a copy of the original Greek text of the 
Synod of Bethlehem, while Mr. Blackmore, the chap- 
lain at Cronstadt, had been translating their Eussian 
version of the same. " Yes," he said, " we have 
corrected some inaccuracies." But though they have 
thus dropped the terms substance and accidents in 
translating the articles of the Synod of Bethlehem 
(sent to Russia and to England by the Greek Patri- 
archs in 1723 as a standard of Orthodoxy and as an 
Ultimatum), and though they in like manner have 
excluded in their Full Russian Catechism the same 
scholastic terminology, which is contained in the 
Orthodox Confession of Peter Mogila, the archpriest 
still maintained (as his own opinion) that they agree 
with Rome about the distinction of substance and 
accidents in the Blessed Eucharist. 

Reading on, in my " Introduction," and coming 
to the words " De Sacrificio Missce" he showed 
that he expected to find me denying it. He passed 
over Purgatory and Indulgences, saying that they 
had neither the one nor the other of these, so there 
was no need to spend time upon them ; but then 
he supposed that I was going to attack altogether the 



154 Discussion continued. 

Icons, Relics, and Invocations. At the mention of our 
Liturgies, Scotch, English, and American, he paused 
and asked some questions : " Are those Liturgies from 
any Apostle ? And, from which of the Apostles ? And 
when I spoke of changes which had been made in 
them, he asked : Why make changes in such a thing 1 
and, such as it is now, after the change is made, is it 
taken from ancient sources, or only a modern compo- 
sition 1 ?" When he came (at p. 94) to the words : 
" In which (English Liturgy) both the Mystical Lamb 
is truly immolated, and there is a sacrifice propiti- 
atory, both for the living and the dead " (p. 94), he was 
pleased, 1 and said : " Ah ! I am glad to see you admit 
this, for so it is, undoubtedly, to be believed." I re- 
plied : " Certainly." When he came to the paragraph 
about Images he made a wry face at these words : "It 
is most certain that the formal customs of the ignorant 
people degenerate into a superstition extremely like 
the idolatry of the heathen " (pp. 95, 96) ; but he was 
pleased with what followed. My attempt to justify 
the Church of England for now disallowing the decree 
of the second Nicene Council in favour of images, on 
the ground that though accepted by the Pope that 
decree was for some time rejected by many of the 
Western churches, was answered at once by him thus : 

1 Vide supr., p. 5. 



Icons and Invocations. 155 

" The Pope, the patriarch of the West, received it, 
and that Council is ecumenical." The last section 
about the Invocation of the Saints he read aloud with- 
out any objection. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

TJie A rchpriesfs view of Mr. Palmer s position and 
appeal. 

OEPTEMBER 21 [o.s.]. Returned from Cronstadt, 
^-^ where I had been from Monday, September 14, 
reading Mouravieff's " History of the Kussian Church," 
and translating from the Greek and Euss, with Mr. 
Blackmore, the Orthodox Confession of Peter Mogila. 

That same day I visited the Archpriest Kout- 
nevich, who had now read through my Introduction 
to the XXXIX. Articles, and he is pleased with 
it. But he finds in it some differences. He instanced 
the Procession of the Holy Ghost, Images, Relics and 
Invocation of the Saints. And the Sacraments are not 
distinctly said in it to be seven. I said, " The techni- 
cal manner of speaking of ' the Seven Sacraments ' has 
been borrowed by the Greeks from the Latins." He 
said they had had it from the beginning. Then he 
insisted on the authority of the seventh Nicene Coun- 
cil, as having been approved by the Pope, the Patriarch 



The Archpries? s view of Mr. Palmer. 157 

of the West. He said that any Synods held in Ger- 
many, France, and England, were as nothing in the 
balance, and that the veneration of Images also had 
been in the Church from the beginning ; and that the 
Invocation of the Saints had been in the Liturgies and 
Offices from the very first. He said more than once 
that I came very near to them : but still he would not 
allow that the Latin doctrine of the Procession was not 
a heresy, nor need cause a breach of communion. At 
the same time he confessed that there had actually 
been intercommunion, even after the controversy had 
arisen. 

As for my desire to be admitted to communion, he 
said, " You have your own chaplain here ; you need 
not come to us." "How," I asked, "can the Church 
of England be in your diocese?" "But," he said, "in 
point of fact here it is, agreeing with your Church in 
England in all things, using the same ritual, &c. ; so 
also there is here the Lutheran, and the Calvinistic, 
the Latin, the Armenian, in all perhaps a dozen churches 
and confessions." I replied, "I recognize no such 
confessions, but only one Confession or Faith, viz. that 
of the Creed. There cannot be de jure two confessions, 
or two bishops, in one place. I am no member of the 
Church of England in Russia, but of the Church of 
Russia in wish and intention at least. If the English 
here are in point of fact voluntarily separate, I cannot 



158 The Archpriesfs view of 

in this defend them, nor can I defend you. For your 
Bishop thinks that, if there are more Churches than 
one in the world, and in his diocese too, he need not 
trouble himself about that. And our people in like 
manner never so much as think of the Bishop of the 
place, but behave as if they had brought out England 
itself in their ships." 

He answered, " Certainly there ought to be only one 
church in one place, and we pray that so it may be. 
But, if we were on that account to give communion to 
the English, while they differ from us in points of such 
great importance, that would be extremely dangerous, 
and it would scandalize the people beyond anything. 
Even for yourselves it would be so ; your people too 
would be scandalized, and think that their bishops and 
clergy had made a league with heretics and idolaters. 
Oh ! that would cause too great scandal." 

Among other things he asked, " What do you say to 
confession 1 for no one can communicate in our church 
without first confessing. And how would a Lutheran 
or a Calvinist be received as a proselyte to your 
church ? " I replied, " Practically there is no disci- 
pline ; theoretically, any one, having weighty matters, 
that is, excommunicable or mortal sins, on his conscience, 
ought to confess, and the form of absolution is the 
same as that used in the Roman (and in the Russian) 
Church, and an alien, Lutheran or Calvinist, ought to 



Mr. Palmer's position and appeal. 159 

be examined as to his belief of the Creed, and to his 
having been validly baptized and confirmed, but this 
is almost unknown. The priest, in visiting the sick, 
is directed to question him whether he has not on his 
conscience any weighty matter, and, if he has, to exhort 
him to confess it, that he may be absolved ; and, in 
giving notice for Holy Communion, he exhorts all such 
as cannot satisfy their own conscience to confess them- 
selves to the priest and to obtain absolution. And all 
without exception are required to give notice to him, 
before presenting themselves as communicants ; but in 
practice none of these rules are attended to." He 
observed on this, "It is very insufficient merely to 
invite people to confess, in case they feel their own 
conscience burdened." 

He lent me a Treatise on the Procession by Theo- 
phanes Procopovich (compiled from a larger work by 
Adam Zarnikav) and I lent him " the Book of .Ber- 
tram the Priest on the Holy Eucharist," the doctrine 
of which, as expressed in an Anglo-Saxon Homily of 
^Elfric for Easter Day, was subscribed and re- 
affirmed for the Church of England in the time of 
Queen Elizabeth. This was with a reference to that 
expression " spirituale corpus " in my " Introduction " 
which he had disliked. 



CHAPTER XXX. 
Conversations with M. Mouravieff. 

the same day called upon M. Mouravieff, who 
in the meantime had been reading the " Origines 
Liturgicae " of Palmer, of Worcester College, lent to him 
by the Metropolitan Philaret, and to the Metropolitan by 
Mr. Blackmore. He turned to a place where the author 
argues that it is superfluous to invoke the Saints since 
they pray for us all the same whether we invoke them 
or not, and said : "A custom of the Church is not 
to be suppressed on such grounds as that, nor on the 
pretext that anything, however good, may be abused." 
He disallowed the author's defence of Queen Eliza- 
beth's consecrations of a new Episcopate, and insisted 
that the Sovereign has been admitted by the Anglican 
Church as her head, while to say this of the Russian 
Church is a most absurd calumny. He observed that 
all the due forms, of obtaining the consent of the 
Eastern Patriarchs, had been observed (that is, when 
the present collegiate government of that Church was 
instituted) even by Peter the Great, who, he admitted, 



Conversations with M. Mouravieff. 161 

had " une volonte forte." And when a bishop is made, 
he is made, not in the name of the Emperor, but in the 
name of Christ ; and the Emperor only chooses one out 
of three (two) names presented to him, and he can do 
nothing in spiritual matters. He entirely denied that 
power, which Mr. Palmer (of Worcester) claimed for 
the Crown, to displace and to translate bishops. I 
observed that we English often speak of the relations 
of Church and State in Eussia as he was speaking 
then of the relations of Church and State in England, 
and that the truth was just the same in both cases. The 
State had certainly invaded the rights of the Church. 
This he would not allow. He even asserted an Eccle- 
siastical supremacy for the English Parliament, and said, 
" There may, no doubt, be individuals, who think like 
you, perhaps even some of the bishops, (how many 
bishops have you 1 and are there any of them who think 
like you?,) but you are not the Anglican Church." 
And, again, reverting to the Koyal Supremacy, and to my 
disclaiming it, he said : " Ah ! you are beginning to 
disclaim it noiv, for it is not only in England, but 
everywhere that men are now beginning rentrer dans 
1'ordre, ce torrent du Protestantisme est passe. So," 
he said, "it is here also in Russia among us. Who 
could have thought that a stroke of the pen was one 
day to reconcile that Unia, which has been so cruel, 
and factious, and venomous 1 " 

M 



1 6 2 Con ver sat ions 



He told me to go to the Sergiefsky Poustin, fifteen 
versts (about ten miles) on the Strelna road, on Wed- 
nesday next the 25th [o.s.], that being their festival, so 
as to be there by ten o'clock for the Liturgy. " You 
can stay a week there," he said, "with the archimandrite 
Brenchininoff." He would read, meanwhile, he said, my 
namesake Mr. Palmer's treatise, " On the Church," 
which would give him no doubt, a more complete view 
of the position and nature of the Anglican Church than 
he had been able to gain of our ritual from the "Origines 
Liturgicse." He objected : " You perhaps may admit 
that the bread of the Holy Eucharist is after consecra- 
tion the Body of Christ ; but how many agree with you 
in that ? Your Church does not teach that ; she says 
it is only a symbol." I denied this ; and quoted from 
the Scotch Liturgy the words " May become the Body 
and Blood of Christ," &c. 

The next day, Sunday, I took to M. Mouravieff the 
English and American Prayer Books, and promised 
him the Scotch Liturgy, when I got my books from 
England ; also Mr. Palmer's Treatise on the Church. Of 
a long conversation I have only detached memoranda. 

1. He did not accept the assertion that all necessary 
articles of faith are proved by Scripture, as well as by 
tradition. He thought that the number of Seven 
Sacraments was a fixed dogma of the Church from the 
beginning. 



with M. Mouravieff. 163 

2. He said : " The Church is not now what 
she was in early times. Then there was so much 
life and vigour, that all was left indeterminate : 
but now all things have been decided and classed, and 
catalogued ; and we must not * move the landmarks.' " 
This he repeated several times. " I know there is a 
tendency now abroad, and in England, and especially 
at Oxford, to maintain very broad principles of 
Catholicism, but in some respects the Greek com- 
munion is less capable of meeting your distinctions and 
accommodations than the Latin. For the Latin has a 
central authority in the Pope, which all must obey, 
and he can easily negotiate and explain, and even 
make concessions ; but the Greeks cannot, for they are 
unlearned, both laity and clergy, and they are blindly 
attached to all that they have received, even to the 
minutest details of their rites; and, if the Russians 
were to make any explanation, &c., the only conse- 
quence would be that they would lose the communion 
of the Eastern Patriarchs." He said this with reference 
to my introduction of the principle of " In necessariis 
unitas," &c. 

3. "If things were not done precipitately," I said, 
" but proofs on each point were brought from their own 
Fathers, the Greek patriarchs, one may hope, would 
not be unreasonable." But he shook his head, and 
said, " You can have no idea of the degree to which 

M 2 



164 Conversations 



the Greek clergy are barbarized, and ignorant; and 
the ignorance of the clergy is very great in Russia too. 
Any one who would communicate with the Oriental 
church must take her just as she is, for she can do 
nothing to meet him." 

4. He said : " See what the English have just now 
done in the Ionian Islands ! They oppress there the 
orthodox ; and, not content with that, they have 
turned out the Patriarch of Constantinople, Gregory ! 
And such a good man too, as he was. This is what 
your English Church has done for us ! " 

5. When I said that the Turkish empire must fall 
before long, and the sooner the better, and that Provi- 
dence seemed to have destined Russia to be instru- 
mental to that end, he confessed to having thought 
that Russia in the last war had been much too punc- 
tilious about the acquisition of territory. 

6. When I spoke of the abuse of the word 
Catholic even in official papers, written in French, he 
admitted that they had not so full or clear an idea of 
Catholicism as they ought to have. " There is little 
knowledge of theology even among the clergy. But 
the recent reconciliation of the Uniats will do good by 
making the Eastern church less tenacious of unessential 
points. For in this case they have admitted certain 
ritual differences, e.g. unmarried priests, bishops with- 
out beards, &c., &c. In truth the Latins have many 



with M. Mouravieff. 165 

good things, which we shall do well to learn from 
them, especially their idea of Catholic unity and their 
zeal to extend it." 

7. "The Uniats," he said, "have been required only 
to accept the Greek form of the Creed." He admitted 
that they had not been required to abjure the Latin 
doctrine concerning the Procession, the admission of 
the Creed in its correct form being thought sufficient." 
" But by the terms of the Council of Florence," I said, 
"the Latin words were to be at the foot of the page." 
" It matters not," he answered, " what was stipulated 
at Florence ; but at the Synod of Brest Litorsky the 
Pope accorded to them at first the Greek creed without 
any such stipulation, insisting only on the recognition 
of his own supremacy." 

8. He asked me what had put me upon this step of 
coming to Eussia 1 "Was I sent by any others ? By 
any authority ? Did I mean to go to the East ? If I 
did, I should see the Greek clergy in a very low and 
miserable state. In fact the more the Eastern Church 
nourishes in Russia, the more it seems to be sinking 
and ruined in the East. 

9. To illustrate what he had been saying, he related 
that once he asked the Patriarch of Constantinople 
what was the precise heresy of the Armenians, as it 
seemed to himself very subtle. " In fact," he said, " they 
are all but the same as we are ; and now that 



1 66 Conversations 



Etchmiadzin belongs to Russia, they might easily be 
united, for they by no means hold the true Eutychian 
heresy. But, if we were to do anything with them, 
the Greeks would cry out that we had made union 
with the heretics." When he asked the Patriarch that 
question, the answer was, " Oh, do not ask me, my 
son ! Only know that all heresies in the world which 
are most pernicious and wicked are united in the 
heresy of the Armenians." 

10. When speaking of the miserable state of the 
Greek clergy in the Levant, he said, " Guess how many 
orthodox there may be in the three Patriarchates of 
Alexandria, Antioch and Jerusalem ; put together. 
There are not more than 100,000!" Of these he 
gave 10,000, I think, to the Patriarch of Alexandria, 
25,000 to that of Jerusalem ; and the remainder, 65,000, 
to that_of Antioch. But the Patriarchate of Constanti- 
nople has 10,000,000. 

11. Hesaid repeatedly, " Such intercommunion as you 
now seek would be impossible. If the Russian clergy 
could admit you to communion, the Anglicans, who 
regard the Russians and Greeks as barbarians and 
idolaters, would cry out against you for conforming to 
the customs of the Greek Church, just as the Greeks 
would cry out against us Russians, if we made a 
pacification with the Armenians. You have thought 
in an unusual way of these things ; you see what pre- 



with M. Mouravieff. 167 

judices there are, and you would bring the two sides to 
agreement after a manner by explanations. You see that 
some things are of not such great importance, others 
may be reconciled, others are true and false in different 
respects. But people in general do not see this on 
either side. Now," he said, laughing, " do you mean 
to tell me that your friend, the chaplain at Cronstadt, 
or the other, who is here, would agree with you 1 No, 
no, they are Anglicans, I am sure, of the regular old 
school." 

12. As regards the Procession, notwithstanding what 
he had said about the reception of the Uniats, and though 
he confessed that there had repeatedly been inter- 
communion after the development of that controversy, 
he contended that this had been so only through in- 
attention, and that the Greeks anathematize the Latin 
doctrine as a heresy, and the Latins as heretics. " If 
so," I said, " you are inconsistent ; for then you ought no 
longer to talk, as you do, of the Eastern and the Western 
Churches, and of a General Council being now im- 
possible, on account of the division ; for, if the Latins 
are heretics, your own communion is the whole Catholic 
Church, and you ought no longer to call it Eastern, but 
Catholic." 

13. He spoke of one of their chaplains abroad as 
having been neither more nor less than a Protestant. 
" That is the mischief," he said. "From ignorance they 



1 68 Conversations ivith M. Mouravieff. 

too often have no idea of their religion beyond that of 
nationality ; and when, out of their own country, among 
Protestants, they think it fine to be like gentlemen, 
like ministers or pastors, and they cut off their beards 
(this, however, they are allowed to do), and wear a lay- 
dress. Instead of thus imitating foreigners, they ought 
to show more attachment to their own national customs, 
and still more to the principles and peculiarities of 
their religion. He had just before said, that "it 
was this idea of a national religion which did all the 
mischief." 

14. He said that the Greeks and Kussians were de- 
ficient, as compared with the Westerns, in Missions ; 
but he promised to introduce me to a Missionary priest, 
named Veniaminoff, who has converted and baptized 
2000 persons in the Aleoutine Islands. 

15. He spoke of the Patriarch Nicon, whom he ad- 
mired as a fine character, and compared him with Thomas 
a Becket, Hincmar, and others in the West. Nicon, 
like them, thought the Church ought to be supreme, 
and for a time he had been used to have all his own 
way. M. Mouravieff, however, would not allow that 
Kicon was a Confessor for any great principle, as I was 
inclined to suppose and to wish. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 
Interview with Count Pratasoff. 

QEPTEMBER 23 [o.s.]. Saw Count Pratasoff at 
^ one o'clock at the Synodal Palace, and told him 
I had been translating (with Mr. Blackmore) the 
"Orthodox Confession" (of Peter Mogila). He did 
not quite approve of this, and said, " You should rather 
translate the ' Russian Catechism ' of the Metropolitan 
Philaret." I said, " We mean to print all those docu- 
ments which are of authority, so as to give a full idea 
of the actual state of theology in Russia. There is, 
however, some inconsistency in these documents. You 
have not only avoided in your Russian Catechism the 
definition of Transubstantiation by means of ' sub- 
stance ' and ( accidents,' but in your published trans- 
lation of the XVIII. Bethlehem Articles, you have 
actually altered the text of the original, so as to omit 
that mention of ' accidents ' which is found in the 
Greek, while in the Russian translation of the ' Ortho- 
dox Confession' the document from which the XVIII. 



170 Interview with 



Articles derived the term," he finished my sentence for 
me, " we have retained the term which in the XVIII. 
Articles we have suppressed. It is true," he con- 
tinued, "we are very desirous to improve education 
and sound learning, but the prevalent ignorance is great, 
especially in Greece and the Levant, and people cannot 
distinguish, but are blindly tenacious of all that they 
are used to. All the same a prodigious movement has 
been effected within a short time, even in Greece. We 
print everything both in Slavonic and in Greek, and 
send it to the churches of the Levant gratuitously, and 
so we hope to fortify them both against the Latins and 
the Methodists, who now ravage them. "We have printed 
the Ecclesiastical Canons without note or gloss in full, in 
double columns, a folio volume, in Slavonic and Greek, 
and the 'Orthodox Confession,' and the 'Short and Long 
Russian Catechism ' too, all in Greek." 

He said, "If we can manage to co-operate together, 
so much the better." I answered, "We on our side, 
ought to be able ; for we desire nothing but truth and 
the unity of the Church ; and we have no other power 
or help, but what prayers and the grace of God may 
give us, for the civil government of England is now 
rather with the Popish and Protestant sectaries." 

He asked, "Which of your bishops are most Catholic 1 " 
I replied, " It would be easier to name those who are 
least Catholic. As long as our Church was exclusively 



Coun t Pratasoff. 1 7 1 



protected by the State, even well-intentioned Church- 
men spoke and wrote chiefly about ' our sacred Establish- 
ment,' though sometimes one also heard of ' our Apos- 
tolical Church.' But, since the change made in 1828, 
1829, by admitting the Protestant and Popish Dissen- 
ters to political power, especially since the Kef orm Bill 
of 1832, by the triumph of a' Whig Government lean- 
ing chiefly on them for support, there has been a revival 
of those Catholic and Apostolic feelings of the Church 
herself, which our political Protestants, after calling to 
the throne, first a Dutch Calvinist, then a German 
Lutheran, have for a century and a half been con- 
stantly seeking to extinguish." 

He asked questions about the Bishop of London, and 
about the Archbishop of Canterbury ; how far were they 
Catholics 1 I said, " The men of the last generation 
all, I suppose, or very nearly all, speak of their Church 
as Protestant, and call it the Established Church, or 
even the Establishment, or our Protestant Establish- 
ment; but the rising generation of the clergy disuse 
more and more those suicidal and ambiguous terms, and 
see that they ought to be simply Orthodox, Catholic, 
and Apostolic, and nothing else ; and that in all their 
thoughts and words and acts they ought to look to 
the unity of the whole, and never in a mere local, sec- 
tarian, or Erastian sense, to speak of what are vulgarly 
called '.National Churches.'" 



172 Interview with 



" Ah," he said, " so Oxford is the centre from which 
all this comes ? " " By no means," I replied. " We have 
some very distinguished and good men there, who by 
their learning and piety are leaders of this movement 
that is true but the movement itself is from a deeper 
source than any personal influences of individuals. It 
is the result of the political changes of 1828, 1829, and 
it shows itself everywhere spontaneously all over Eng- 
land as well as in Oxford, and that, often without any 
communications to account for it." 

Like M. Mouravieff, he asked jokingly about our 
chaplains here and at Cronstadt, and said he was sure 
they were of the old school, unless I had converted 
either of them. " I said they might not agree with me 
in all the developments I make from principles, but in 
the principles themselves both they, and so far as I 
know, the great body of our clergy, are perfectly Ortho- 
dox." He said, " I cannot believe that. Your English 
here are many of them quite Protestant, Puritan : and 
they make the Russians think that they are not only 
Protestants like the Lutherans, but even like the Re- 
formed (i.e. Dutch or Swiss Calvinists), which is much 
worse." 

With regard to my intention of going to Moscow and 
Kieff, he said, " You must not leave Petersburg at pre- 
sent ; we shall be better able to find you opportunities 
to see ceremonies, &c., here, and you can do nothing 



Count Pratasoff. 173 

anywhere else till you have learned Russ, which is not 
to be done in a day. At any rate, you must stay till 
the Metropolitan of Moscow is here. When he conies, 
I will take you with me to him, and I shall hear what 
he says to you. I will show him your letter, which I 
have had translated for the Emperor. The Metropo- 
litan of Petersburg, Seraphim, who is much respected 
and rigidly orthodox, even to severity, is very old and 
infirm, and it would be best not to trouble him, as a 
foreigner not knowing Russ could not confer with him 
to any purpose." 



CHAPTER XXXII. 
Conversation with the Priest Malloff. 

SEPTEMBER 24 [o.s.]. Madame Beck, having 
^-^ heard of my wish to live in the house of some 
Russian ecclesiastic, sent me a message that she thought 
I could live in the house of a priest of the Isaac 
Church, M. Malloff, who was her confessor. I was 
taken to call on him in consequence ; he spoke French 
quite fluently. 

He said, " The Russian clergy and laity in general 
believe that the true Church is strictly confined to the 
Greek and the Russian, or the Eastern. What do you 
think of all the other sects, and of the Latin Church ? " 
I replied, " I think that the true Catholic Church is 
divided by misunderstandings into three parts or Com- 
munions." He looked puzzled, and asked, " How into 
three ?" I replied, " First into the Eastern and the 
Western, and then the Western again into the Conti- 
nental and the British." He understood then what I 
meant, and went on thus, " Well, all the sects have 



The Priest Malloff. 17$ 

come out either from the Latin or from the Greek 
Church ; and the Russians believe that their Church 
(i.e. the Greek or Orthodox Eastern) alone has kept 
all just as it was, while the rest have all departed from 
what they originally held together with the Eastern, 
the Popes having introduced innumerable novelties and 
detestable corruptions. On the other hand, the Latins 
say that all alike are schismatics or heretics except 
themselves. For my part, I think that there are Chris- 
tians everywhere (i.e. in all the Churches and Sects), 
and that the great thing is the religion of the heart. 
What do you think 1 " 

I said, " The first thing between us is to ascertain 
and understand the definition of the true Church, of 
the visible Church : then, as to all those that are 
outside it, we know nothing about them (as indivi- 
duals, the Church judges them not, but) God is their 
Judge. There is only one true Catholic and Apostolic 
Church, visible and invisible ; and it is not enough for 
men to have a good intention to practise virtue in the 
sect in which they happen to be ; they must also 
seek to be Catholics in faith and to believe in 
the Catholic Church, as being the one only way 
of Salvation." He asked, " In which then of the two 
do you make true religion to consist ? in right belief 
(Orthodoxy), or in virtuous action ? For there are two 
parties one thinking in the former way, the other in 



176 Conversation with 

the latter." I said, " In both together. They should 
never be separated even in thought. Orthodox faith 
ought to show itself by superior charity and superior 
virtue ; and charity and virtue, in whatever degree they 
exist, even outside the Church, tend toward Orthodoxy 
of faith. But neither are Orthodoxy and virtue, both 
together, enough ; there must also be actual union, and a 
state of union, with the Church through the reception of 
the Sacraments, and a state of grace which ceases when 
any man falls personally into heresy or schism, or other 
mortal sin." He said, " But what do you think of the 
different Churches or Confessions, Catholic, Lutheran, 
&c. ? " I said, " Here in Kussia you should call none 
but yourselves Catholics : those whom you call Ca- 
tholics are Romanists here ; you may call them Latins 
or Romans at Rome. And as for the Lutherans, how 
are they a Church ? An opinion or Confession, or 
joint action as a society, does not make a Church. And 
as for sects (whether with or without the organization 
of Churches), the first authors of heresies and schisms 
are the special children of the devil ; but the case of 
their descendants is different." " Ah ! what do you 
say of them ? " he asked. " Doubtless there are honest 
and good people in all the sects " (he had quoted the 
example of Cornelius, and the words, " In every nation 
he that feareth God and worketh righteousness is 
accepted of him "), " but it is impossible for the Church 



the Priest Malloff. 1 77 

on that account to call their inherited errors truth, or 
to regard truth as indifferent, or to call them disciples 
or brethren," &c., &c. 

He did not sympathize fully with me in all this, 
though he seemed to admit it. He spoke much of the 
deep-rooted attachment of the Kussian people to ex- 
ternal forms. " You" he said, " have, I suppose, 
education for your clergy, we have scarcely any. There 
are two parties among us ; and there are some of the 
clergy, thank God, who seem sincerely to seek Christ ; 
but I fear the greater number are mere bigots to their 
outward forms, and think all religion to consist in 
them. The people, for instance, would think a priest 
without a beard to be an heretic." 

I could scarcely make him perceive that there was 
any inconsistency or weakness in confining the true 
Catholic Church to the East, and yet partly ad- 
mitting the Latin too, and even calling it (in French 
and other languages at least) Catholic, in preference to 
their own Church. "If you," I said, " alone are the 
whole true Church, you ought to set to work to con- 
vert all the Latins, but you dare not say distinctly that 
they are heretics." " Yes," he said, " presque heretiques." 
" Ah ! there it is," I replied, " presque ! " " Some of 
their errors," he said, " touch (rasent) the foundation." 
" Still," I replied, " so long as they are only presque, 
not quite heretics, they are part, and even the greater 



178 Conversation with the Priest Mctlloff. 

part of the Church, and the other part (the Eastern or 
Greek) is not the whole ; and the Catholic authority 
lies in the union actual or virtual of the two ; and we 
ought all to pray night and day, and to make special 
prayers for the restoration of that unity." " Ah ! " he 
said, " you will never bring our bishops and archiman- 
drites to that, for they regard the Church as confined to 
the East." He also said, "We are all so confused by 
the multiplicity of divisions that, for my part, I do 
not see how any man can find a consistent and satis- 
factory way out of them. 



CHAPTER XXXII 1. 
Interview with Count Pratasoff. 

r I 1 HE same day, at six p.m., I saw Count Pratasoff at 
-^ his own house till eight. Among other questions 
he asked, " By what name do you call your Church 
among yourselves T' I said, " Commonly the Church 
of England." " The English Church, a local or parti- 
cular name like your Grseco-Kussian " (introduced by 
Theophanes Procopovich, but now, he says, disused), 
" or Eastern." He said, " We have now substituted 
the word Orthodox, and are regaining the use of the 
word Catholic" I observed that " the journals printed 
in French by authority apply the word ' Catholique' 
abusive to the Latins." He said that to correct that 
there needed an order of the Synod and the Senate (?) 
to all the officials or public offices. "Besides the 
* Church of England, ' or ' the Church ' simply, 
many among us," I said, " speak of the ' Established 
Church/ and even of the ' Establishment.' " He was 
surprised to hear that the Popish bishops in England 
K 2 



1 80 Interview with 



and Ireland depend simply on the Pope, and that the 
civil power has no control whatever over them, which 
freedom of democratical Popery seems to have inspired 
De la Mennais with his theory. The Count said, 
" We have reconciled the Uniats without requiring of 
them anything else than the acknowledgment that 
Christ is the Head of the Church, as the Pope at Brest 
Litovski in reconciling them to himself had stipulated 
for nothing else than this, that they should acknow- 
ledge His headship, 1 and not call the Latins heretics. 
Now," he said, " they revile us for this. But there 
are five Bulls of the Popes still extant. This has done 
good by enlarging the ideas of the Greeks, and it has 
already produced words or acts from some persons of 
eminence and bishops, as if sounding or feeling their 
way ; and the Pope's power is very insecure in Poland, 
and here " (in Lithuania or Western Russia ?) " his 

bishops are much more under the Emperor than are the 

i 
Russian bishops. In fact, the Governor (of the province, 

or the Government) is truly their Head ; and lately the 
Emperor made a metropolitan without asking the Pope ; 
and that metropolitan has written to the Pope, taking 
the title without him : and the Government lately 
changed a prayer for the Mahometan Moollahs, who were 
going to pray that the Emperor might always continue 
to protect Islam. 

i [As the Vicar of Christ.] 



Count Pratasoff. 181 

He asked what centralization of authority and action 
was there in our Communion ? He perceived that the 
Act of Parliament had made a kind of Patriarch of our 
Archbishop of Canterbury ; and thought it important 
that there should be some sort of subordination about a 
common centre. 

He twice repeated the wish that the chaplain here 
would teach the English to regard themselves as nearer 
in religion to the Eussians than to the Keformed. He 
said they would try to get a good theologian to replace 
the Russian chaplain a*t London, and he asked me to 
give them a list of good English divines and books, 
and, when I mentioned an intention of translating into 
Russ some short edifying books, he seemed to approve 
of this, bidding me talk about it to M. Mouravieff 
and the archpriest, who was very learned and sound. 

He again showed a disinclination to let me live in the 
Spiritual Academy, bringing forward various objections. 
He said that Malloff had by no means a clear idea of 
the Church, but he is clever, has some acquaintance 
with literature, and is a good preacher. " Eut he durst 
not have talked in the provinces as he talked here to 
you." 

He spoke, as M. Mouravieff had spoken, of Lord 
Ponsonby having deposed the Patriarch of Constanti- 
nople, Gregory, a very good man (who, however, in 
resigning, stipulated for the election of another, 



1 82 Interview 'with Count Pratasoff. 

Anthimus, less learned and more bigoted than 
himself). 

In speaking of Dr. Pinkerton's success in establishing 
Bible Societies all over Russia, and of the missionaries 
for whom he obtained permission to go to Siberia, as if 
to help the Church, but who had prepared no single 
soul for baptism, and had taught the few over whom 
they obtained influence to be more hostile to the Church 
than were the pagans, he smiled, and said that their 
late Metropolitan or rather their retired Metropolitan, 
Seraphim, had the merit of having suspended the Bible 
Society. He expressed a wish to see the private 
Devotions of Bishop Andrewes, and the Devotions of 
Archbishop Laud, and an account of his martyrdom. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Visit of some days to the Monastery of St. Sergius-*- 
The Anniversary Service. 

yTTEDKESDAY, 25th September [o.s.]. Went 
with M. Mouravieff to the Sergief sky Poustin 
(Hermitage) in time for the Liturgy. St. Sergius of 
Radonege in the fourteenth century was the source of a 
new development of monasticism spreading over all the 
Northern and Eastern parts of Russia, and he, and his 
monks Peresviet and Osliab, co-operated with the Grand 
Prince Dmitri Donskoy in A.D. 1380 in the work of pre- 
paration for the liberation of his country from the Tartars. 
And, as Peter I. translated from Yladimir to the banks 
of the Neva the Relics of St. Alexander Nefsky, and 
built around them the present Lavra, so his daughter 
Elizabeth founded this hermitage of St. Sergius, near 
the new capital, to place it like Moscow under the pro- 
tection of that Saint, and to connect it with a place of 
pilgrimage answering to that of the great Troitsa- 
Sergiefska Lavra, which is regarded by the people 



1 84 Visit to the 



(especially since A.D. 1613 l ) as the heart and sanctuary 
of Muscovy. 

I was placed within the sanctuary. The Holy 
Table or Throne, a square table of moderate height, 
fixed on the level floor, and covered down to 
the ground on all sides with red and gold brocade, 
stood in the centre, a strip of carpet being laid round 
it. It had upon it two candelabra of three lights each, 
and an artophorion or tabernacle behind and between 
them, rising from a porcelain pedestal. Two richly- 
covered books, gilded and embossed, with icons like 
cameos in their centres, stood upright towards the back 
of the altar. Also the antiminse or corporal, on which 
is stamped the figure of Christ in the tomb, with a 

1 [We shall hear more of this Lavra, as Mr. Palmer's Journal 
proceeds. After the extended troubles external and internal of the 
country, before 1613, "at length," says Mouravieff, "when all ap- 
peared to be lost, she suddenly, by the help of God, recovered her- 
self, shook off from her the ashes of her towns and villages, and 
flourished in renewed strength. The Trinity (Troitsa) Lavra, by 
its ardent patriotism, rekindled a like flame in her chilled and 
paralyzed members ; the holy Archimandrite was ever on the 
watch ; he took care of the people who fled out of the capital ; 
turned the whole of the convent into one great hospital, &c." 
Blackmore's translation, p. 168, Oxford, 1842. 

There are only three Lavras, or first-class monasteries in Russia, 
that of St. Sergius of the Holy Trinity, or the Moscow Lavra; St. 
Alexander Nefski or the Petersburg's ; and that of Kieff, where 
are the relics spoken of above in note, pp. 81, 82, and where 
St. Andrew is said to have preached.] 



Monastery of St. Sergius. 185 

particle of some relics imbedded and interwoven in it, 
was lying, folded like a napkin in front. On the wall 
there was a large painting, representing the Three 
Persons of the Blessed Trinity, with an inscription 
"These Three are One," 

The officiating clergy robed in the sanctuary. The 
monks stood without, in the body of the Church, in 
two choirs, facing the sanctuary. Two priests stood on 
the north of the altar, two on the south, the Archi- 
mandrite in the centre. I now had ocular witness of 
what is said in the Liturgies and the old Fathers, of 
the priests in the Eucharistic service compassing or 
surrounding the altar. Afterwards seats were placed 
for the four concelebrating priests and for the Archi- 
mandrite behind the altar, and there they sat looking 
westward through the royal doors which had been 
opened. After the dismissal of the Catechumens, the 
Archimandrite opened the antiminse, the gifts having 
been prepared and the offertory made at the Prothesis 
by one of the concelebrating priests during the reading 
of the Hours, Tierce and Sext. In the procession that 
followed, the deacon first bore the paten or disk, with 
the asterisk and its cover on his head, then a priest the 
chalice, and others the book, the rod of Moses, with the 
cross, the spoon, the lance and the reed. Thus they 
re-entered through the central or royal doors, which 
were then closed and so remained. Next I saw the 



1 86 Visit to the 



Archimandrite and the concelebrating priests kiss the 
Holy Things on the covers and the rim of the Tahle, 
and one another over the right shoulder, embracing at 
the same time by putting one arm over the left shoulder 
and the other over the right. After this, the choirs sang 
the Creed, while the Archimandrite and the priests 
waved the Aer (a thin piece of fine linen) over the 
gifts. 

Then followed the consecration, the deacons waving 
the fans, or wings of Cherubim, over the uncovered gifts, 
and, at the moment of the great oblation, after our 
Lord's words of institution, and before the Invocation 
of the Holy Ghost, I saw the chief Deacon lift up a 
little from the altar the paten and the chalice, both at 
once, having his wrists crossed. Before the Invocation, 
the celebrating Priests all made certain secret ejacula- 
tions as a preparation, and prostrated themselves to the 
ground, saying the same words thrice (the like to which 
they had done also just before the great Introit, before 
leaving the altar for the Prothesis) ; and again after 
the Invocation, when the Consecration was perfected, 
they all bowed to the very ground all round the alt 
as the elders round the Throne and the Lamb in the 
Apocalypse ; and this, I am told, is the universal practice 
through Russia, though not prescribed by any rubric 
nor usual in the Levant. 

Then followed in a low voice the prayers for the 



Monastery of St. Sergins. 1 87 

departed, and those for the living, names being read at the 
same time from the diptychs, while the choirs sang an 
anthem in honour of the Blessed Virgin. After a short 
Ectenda* the curtain within the iconostasis (or screen) 
being drawn back, the Archimandrite lifted up the 
Oblation with the words " Holy Things for the Holy." 
An anthem followed, called the Communion, during 
which the Archimandrite divided the Lamb, as it is 
called, into four parts, putting the top or eastern part 
of the stamp or seal (I.H.C.) into the chalice, and then 
pouring in from a silver shell a little hot water. Then 
he communicated himself from the part having the 
stamp XC., which he had divided into the requisite 
number of particles for the clergy concelebrating and 
ministering within the altar, while each of the con- 
celebrating priests came up in his turn, and kissing 
first the antiminse, took to himself his particle from 
the paten into his hand, and, closing it, went round to 
his place, and there made a reverence and com- 
municated himself. Then the Archimandrite com- 
municated the deacons. And, having finished, he 
communicated first himself and then the rest of the 
priests with the chalice, afterwards the deacons. 
Then he put into the chalice the two parts of the 
Lamb NI and KA for the communion of the inferior 
clerks without the Altar and the laity. While the 
2 [Series of collects, or litany, or bidding prayer.] 



1 88 Visit to the Monastery of St. Sergius. 

choirs sung a troparion, the deacon wiped with a 
sponge all the remaining particles and crumbs from the 
paten into the chalice, and covered them both ; and 
afterwards at the prothesis consumed what remained 
in it. 

Then the Archimandrite, after saying a prayer, dis- 
tributed to the people the Antidoron (consisting of 
small squares of blessed bread), and gave his final 
blessing. 



CHAPTER XXXV, 
The Dinner of the Sergiefsky Festival. 

E Church was thronged. Afterwards many 
persons, ladies as well as men, went to visit 
the archimandrite for the festival. The great church, 
out of which we now went, stands in the middle of the 
walled precinct, with a cemetery around it, where 
many of the nobility are buried. This is the usual 
plan and appearance of Russian monasteries. As one 
approaches from without, one sees a battlemented wall, 
with towers perhaps at intervals, especially over or near 
the great gates, the walls about which are painted in 
colours with some scriptural or ecclesiastical history 
and there will be an icon over the doorway. The 
walls themselves are whitewashed, but the copings of 
the battlements and the conical tops of the towers are 
coloured green or red. But before noticing these, one 
has probably seen in the distance, or caught glimpses at 
intervals of the five gilded cupolas and crosses of the 
chief church rising above the walls or among the trees, 



190 Festival Dinner 

and, highest of all, the bulb of the belfry-tower. On 
entering one sees the lodgings of the monks attached 
all round to the wall of the precinct, like casemates. 
Even if there is no cemetery, there will be green turf 
round the central church divided by gravel-walks or 
flag-pavements, sometimes with avenues of trees leading 
up to the church, and there will be similar pavements 
or walls running all round the precinct in front of the 
cells. Probably too there will be a number of trees 
scattered about within, which, though not of any beauty 
or size in the North of Eussia, give a more varied and 
more cheerful aspect to the place, especially in summer. 
As I entered the Archimandrite's lodgings the 
singers were chanting at the blessing of some refresh- 
ments called zakuska, which were offered to all present, 
and of which each person tasted standing. Here I was 
accosted in English by two or three officers. One of 
these, Admiral Bicard, was sent to England when 
young by the Empress Catharine, and not long ago he 
was Governor of Kamschatka. Another had lost a leg, 
but notwithstanding that, he has since travelled in the 
Levant, to Palestine and Egypt, and to the Seven 
Churches of Asia Minor. After the crowd of visitors 
had left, those who were invited accompanied the 
Archimandrite and the brethren to the refectory, 
where we found a long table spread, there being about 
forty monks to dine, besides the guests. At the end 



at the Monastery of St. Sergius. 191 

nearest the door by which we entered there was a large 
picture or icon, and before it a wax-light, which stood 
about five feet high from the floor. The Archimandrite 
turned round to the picture so as to have the wax-light 
a little before him on his right hand, and we, with all 
the monks, stood behind him in a body, reaching to 
the other end of the room. And the Archimandrite 
beginning, the rest answered him, and so chanted the 
Blessing of the Table. I may add, that in like manner 
after dinner they sang the Grace, which was still longer, 
the wax-light being set again, and all turning to it on 
rising from table, and chanting, as I thought, magnifi- 
cently. 

After the table had been thus blessed, the company 
took their places, bowing and making the sign of 
the cross thrice, as they did also at the end. We sat 
down to a good dinner of fish-soup, fish dressed in several 
ways, vegetables, andpirogi, with wine to drink, and 
mead, and quass, which last is the popular beverage of 
the Kussians. It is a subacid liquor, not intoxicating ; 
(it is upon vodka, not on quass, that they get drunk). 
We had black rye bread, moist and viscid, with a 
slight sharpness, which is eaten with a good deal of 
salt, and towards the end of the dinner some apples 
and pears, which, however, were not served separately 
like our desert. During the dinner one of the novices 
in a simple cassock stood at a light portable naloi 



192 Festival Dinner 

reading part of the " Life of St. Sergius." This lectern 
was placed towards the picture, though at some distance 
from it, towards the middle of the room, so that he 
faced towards the archimandrite and the upper end of 
the table. Admiral Ricard sat next to me, on one side, 
and a monk who spoke French on the other. The 
admiral told me that he had brought back from 
Kamschatka a Chinese servant, who had been with him 
a number of years, and spoke Russ : he had often 
tried in vain to convert this man, but M. Mouravieff, 
having heard this, desired to see the Chinaman, and 
after a number of interviews one day the man came 
back with joy in his countenance, and said : " Now, 
master, I wish to be baptized." The Admiral told 
another story of a native of Kamschatka. His prede- 
cessor in that Government had offered some temporal 
advantages to such as became Christians, which 
Admiral RIcard, finding that they did harm rather 
than good, had ceased to offer. There was one native, 
a fine strong man, who was very troublesome, com- 
mitting all sorts of crimes, and being a ring-leader in 
every disorder. This man having been more than 
once brought before him, he, the Admiral, said to him 
not quite seriously, " When do you mean to leave off 
your bad habits, and be baptized 1 " " Not yet," the 
man replied boldly; "when I am baptized I shall 
have the Governor for my godfather." The Admiral 



at the Monastery of St. Sergius. 193 

took him at his word, and said that whenever he was 
fit to be baptized the Governor was ready to be his 
godfather ; and in the meantime he condemned him to 
no other punishment than that of listening to the 
instructions of a priest. After a time, the priest 
reported that the man was really fit ; and so he was 
baptized, and had the Governor for his godfather ; and 
from that day he became as exemplary as he had before 
been vicious. When the Admiral was quitting the 
Government, this man, then a zealous Christian, knowing 
which way he would pass, went several hundred miles, 
and posted himself on the road to intercept his god- 
father, and to thank him for the last time, and to take 
his parting blessing. 



CHA PTER XXX VI. 

Conversation with the A rchimandrite 
Brenchininoff. 

"TV /T MOUKAVIEFF, after introducing me to two 
^- L * or three of the monks who speak French, 
took his leave and returned to Petersburg. I am 
now writing from the room or " cell " of one of these 
new acquaintances, who has given it up to me for the 
time of my stay. He is the secretary and vicar of the 
archimandrite, about thirty-five years old, and of very 
friendly and engaging manners. The room in England 
would be called unfurnished ; but it has a light screen 
between five and six feet high, running across one end 
of it, and hiding the bed. The window, which opens 
by a string (the second windows for winter being not 
yet put in), looks out upon a bare patch of ground 
with some ponds (there is no end of mosquitoes or 
sand-flies), and in the distance one sees the masts 
and sails of the vessels in the gulf. 

After his siesta the archimandrite sent and invited 



Conversation with the Archimandrite. 195 

me to come to him. He and his monks say that their 
Church is the whole Catholic Church, the only Church 
representing the Ecumenical Councils, and holding 
and teaching the true Orthodox Catholic Faith, whole 
and undefiled ; while the whole Latin Communion and 
all the Westerns are guilty not only of secondary 
errors or abuses, but of heresy in the article of the 
Procession of the Holy Grhost from the Son, which 
we, they say, have interpolated into the Creed. This 
apostasy, they think, was not made all at once, but 
gradually and by distinct stages. They accused the 
Latins of having interpolated or corrupted all those 
passages of the Latin Fathers, earlier than the schism, 
in which the present Latin doctrine is asserted. They 
seemed not to believe that Pope Leo III., while he 
condemned the interpolation of the Creed, yet allowed 
that the doctrine was true, and might be taught, saying 
that the report of Charlemagne's messengers was a 
one-sided statement. They admitted that there has 
been at times intercommunion between the Eastern 
and Western Churches, even since that question was 
raised ; but they thought this to be explainable, on the 
ground first, that the Latin heresy was not yet fully 
developed ; and secondly, because the Latins dropped 
and dissembled the question in the East at each tem- 
porary reconciliation, while the Easterns, having been so 
long used to intercommunion, and coming little into 
o 2 



196 Conversation ivilk 

direct contact with the Latins, owing to the difference 
of language and rite, did not readily or all at once, 
feel at what moment the error had become universal 
and incorrigible in the Western Church. 

I said : "If this be so, why call your Church any 
longer the Eastern, when you ought rather to call it 
the Catholic or Ecumenical Church, and to be zealous 
by prayer and action to instruct and reclaim so large a 
portion of the Christian world, which you think has 
lapsed into heresy 1" They replied : " Our Church is 
in truth the whole Orthodox Catholic Church, and she 
calls herself so distinctly ; and the term Eastern, as 
now used by us, does not denote any local circum- 
scription in space, as it once did, but rather historical 
and local origin, because Christianity was from the 
East : Ex Oriente lux ; we pray towards the East : we 
expect Christ from the East; and Christ is Himself 
the Everlasting East. From the West the catechumen 
turns away when he is to be baptized, and has to 
renounce the powers of darkness." 

I said : " You ought then to send missionaries to 
convert us. And is it not a great difficulty to suppose 
that the half of the visible Church really lapsed a 
thousand years ago into heresy, and yet has continued 
ever since, during so many centuries, not only to main- 
tain itself, but even to increase, beyond the true 
Orthodox Church, so as now to stand to it as two- 



the Sergiefsky Archimandrite. 197 

thirds to one-third 1 and has produced so many men of 
eminent sanctity, and has shown such a powerful and 
varied energy, and has outlived such storms and 
attacks and losses, since the separation 1 " They re- 
plied : " Our church knows not any of the Saints or 
miracles done by the Latins since the separation." 
Still, they seemed to have an idea, that the Latin 
Church has preserved a kind of existence, though 
heretical, comparing it with the Ten Tribes, and even 
speaking of the assembly of another General Council 
as "desirable, but difficult by reason of the Schism." 
And they thought that it might at any time recover its 
full rights and place in the Universal Church, the 
primacy of the Roman See included, by merely cor- 
recting its fault, and submitting itself again to the 
Ecumenical Canons, against which it has rebelled. 

The archimandrite spoke much of Ascetic Theology 
(his favourite subject), and made all the strength of 
the early Church to have lain in the ascetic spirit, 
which the Eastern Church has kept, but the Latins 
have more or less lost. He alluded to several ancient 
writers, especially to St. John Climacus. Speaking of 
Cassian, he remarked : " You in the West, say ' Saint 
Augustine,' but only ' Blessed Cassian,' but we, on the 
contrary, say ' Saint Cassian,' but only * Blessed Au- 
gustine." There is nothing in Cassian but what he had 
taken from St. John Chrysostom, though the "Western 



198 The Sergiefsky Archimandrite. 

tax him with. Semi-Pelagianism : Augustine had more 
genius, eloquence, and learning than asceticism, and 
was a good deal of a disciple of Origen. The works of 
Origen are regarded by the Easterns as heretical ; and 
Origen himself as all but an heretic ; while the West 
has been very tender towards him. However, Cassian 
was dead before his disciple Prosper caused Augustine 
to write : and there was no open difference between 
Cassian and Augustine. Augustine speaks very strongly 
of Predestination, which the Greeks have made to 
depend on foreknowledge ; and we cannot but observe 
that both Luther and Calvin, though no doubt they 
misunderstood him, professed to follow Augustine as 
their teacher." He spoke much of Acacius (who lived 
during the interval between Photius and Cerularius) 
as a great master of Asceticism, and as a Saint, for the 
Greek Church. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 
Reminiscences of the Sergiefski Monks. 



rTlHE following are extracts from a diary kept at 
-*- the time, and here thrown together. 

They told a story of St. Antony, surnamed the 
Koman, who, in A.D. 1206, sailed round on a stone 
from Old Eome to Great Novgorod in two days and 
two nights, and a barrel or chest, containing church 
ornaments came with him, following him under the 
sea. I asked what evidence they had for this ? They 
replied : " We know nothing about evidence : all that 
we poor monks have to do is to believe : but if you 
wish for evidence, you may go to Novgorod, where the 
stone is still shown, in the monastery which the Saint 
founded there." 

There are many miraculous icons in Russia above 
seventy, I think one of them said : and scarcely any 
city is without some Relics, by which miracles of 
healing are still often wrought, and evil spirits ex- 
pelled. 



2OO Reminiscences of 

In A.D. 1829 there was at the Solovetsky Monastery 
a monk who, like St. Anthony the Great, had frequent 
conflicts with the devil, having attained great per- 
fection by living as a hermit only on roots and berries. 
At last he was severely beaten, and was found with his 
back broken and nearly dead, yet he lived on six 
months. 

The Father Tchihacheff knows an Englishman at St. 
Petersburg who witnessed a miracle of St. Metro - 
phanes of Voronege quite recently. The saint ap- 
peared to an officer who was thought to be dying 
during the night as if standing by his bedside ; the 
Englishman being at the time in the room (though he 
did not see the vision) ; and the next morning the sick 
man was well. 

In answer to some question about work with books, 
they said that there are very few books in their library, 
and that their business is not to study, nor to do work 
of any other kind, not even for the service of religion, 
but to sing the divine offices and to live first for the 
good of their own souls, and then also to do penance 
for the world. (Their black habit denotes peni- 
tence.) 

They asked, " Do you find our fleas, and other vermin, 
and the gnats which come in at the windows, trouble- 
some ? " I confessed I had found them very troublesome, 
especially the first night, when I scarcely slept a wink. 



the Sergiefsky Monks. 201 

One of them said that he had come from a monastery 
in the south, where they are more like hermits and 
wear coarser habits, though they have no strict hermits 
now in Russia. Here, though their monastery is called an 
hermitage (poustm), they all wear cotton velvet (demi- 
velours). This was ordered with some other relaxations 
hy the Emperor Alexander, because they were so near 
the capital. As for us, they said, our bodies are used 
to those creatures ; for though we take our baths like 
other Russians, we change our under-garments only 
once a week, once a fortnight, or even once a month. 
"Is that by preference," I asked, "or by rule?" 
"No," the speaker replied, "from neither, but from 
poverty : and, after all, those creatures have their 
use, to teach one patience. In the south the monks 
swarm with them." He seemed to wonder at my 
questions, and especially at my wish to turn some of 
their monasteries into working and learned communi- 
ties ; and he kept repeating that prayer and holiness 
have more efficacy than learning or work of any kind. 
"Yes, yes," I said, "but the Church needs both." 
He seemed to think that the current had already set 
far too much in the direction of intellectual cultivation. 
" The white clergy," he said, " are all over-burdened 
with work and families " (the latter he seemed to think 
at best a necessary evil), "and the Academicians" 
(meaning all the higher monastic clergy) " are equally 



2O2 Reminiscences of 

taken up with work and instruction. The monasteries 
are little thought of by anybody, though they have 
more than once saved Kussia." 

He continued, "The secular clergy are infected with 
liberalism. 1 They read Lutheran and other bad foreign 
books ; and the bishops, though better than they were 
at the end of the last century, are no friends of monas- 
ticism in the true sense of the word. Only five out of 
fifty (one of the five being the Metropolitan of Kieff ) pro- 
tect the monks ; for though they are all by profession 
monks themselves, yet they are also all Academicians, 
and under the influence of the civil power. Peter the 
Great would have destroyed monasticism altogether if 
he could, but he was not strong enough to do that at 
once, and he died. It was no merit of his that it has 
been preserved. And now to how few are the monks in 
Russia reduced ! There were once above 40,000, there 
are now only 4000, in 400 monasteries, and perhaps 
16,000 inferiors. And who is there now of the great 
men of the world, or of princes, who ever thinks of re- 
ceiving the tonsure, either in life, or before death 1 That 
is contrary, alas ! to the ideas dominant everywhere." 

1 [One must recollect that in every nation there is a multitude 
of parties and classes, with their separate esprit de corps, tra- 
ditions, antagonisms, &c. &c. What these good monks say of 
other bodies must not be taken to the letter ; this applies with 
still greater force to some of the statements made in the chapters 
which follow.]] 



the Sergiefsky Monks. 203 

The ideal of their monastic life is or was to divide 
the twenty-four hours of the night and day into three 
equal parts, and to give on the whole eight hours to 
the divine offices (though if fully performed they would 
often take more), eight to labour, and eight for meals, 
sleep, and recreation. In some places in Eussia, as at 
the Valaam Monastery (on an island in the Ladoga 
Lake) the monks really do labour, as in primitive 
times. But in most cases there is considerable remiss- 
ness in this respect. Nor do the church services, 
though long, fill up, as they are commonly performed, 
so much as eight hours, though certainly they do not 
take less than six. 

In other monasteries there is much more dirt, and 
more vermin than here. The monks wear coarser 
shirts, and gowns of serge or hair, and lie harder, and 
sing the offices at greater length. They wear a cross 
on their breast, and a cross (quite small) under their 
shirt, on the middle of their breast. All rise in the 
morning before four or five a.m., and sleep two hours 
after dinner, which is at half past eleven a.m. or at 
twelve, after the liturgy. They communicate three or 
four times in the week, and priests generally confess 
once a quarter, lay people once a year only (though to 
communicate four times, i.e. at the four fasts, is recom- 
mended) and to communicate once at Easter is required 
of all by the Church. They live in hopes that one day 



2O4 Reminiscences of the Sergiefsky Monks. 

or other the monasteries and churches may regain their 
possessions. Some monasteries even now possess a 
fish-pond and a farm or so. This one has a farm in 
the neighbourhood which is managed by a monk. 
The people are not allowed to give or bequeath serfs to 
the monasteries, but they may give or bequeath money, 
houses, or lands. Only for this there must be a special 
permission from the Emperor : and the people do not 
think much of making any such gifts or bequests now. 
The efforts, however, which are making by the Govern- 
ment to improve the maintenance of all the parochial 
clergy (who have never been plundered), are truly 
laudable, and may fairly be thought to be some sort of 
reparation for the spoliation of the episcopal and 
monastic estates in former times. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
Sergiefsky Reminiscences continued. 

HEY showed a strong feeling against the Pope ; 
and listened readily when I maintained that it is 
wrong to call his followers Catholics ; and still more wrong 
to call them all alike Catholics, as if there were no 
difference between the Christians of dioceses originally 
Latin, and those schismatics who to follow the Pope 
separate themselves from the Eastern or from the British 
Churches. 

Another time when I had blamed the virulence 
of Theophanes Procopovich in calling the Pope (or 
perhaps he meant the Eoman Church) "Romana 
Bestia," the Father Tchihacheff laughed, and said, " He 
would have been equally ready to call the Russians 
bestias, if the Tsar had wished him to do so. Theo- 
phanes Procopovich was a man of light character, 
though clever and eloquent." 

" The morals of the capital," they said, " are worthy of 
Babylon : there are theatres, and balls, and masquerades, 



206 Sergiefsky Reminiscences 

which were unknown in Russia till the time of Peter I. 
Our clergy are the most accessible of all in the world 
to new and strange opinions, they read books written 
by heterodox or unbelieving foreigners, Lutherans, and 
others. The Spiritual Academy is infected with in- 
novating principles, and even "the Christian Reading," 
though that periodical contains many translations from 
the old fathers. Russia may be on the point, for all 
we know, of an explosion of heretical liberalism. There 
is a fair outside : we have preserved all the rites and 
ceremonies, and the creed of the early Church : but it 
is a dead body : there is little life. The secular clergy 
are kept in an hypocritical orthodoxy only by fear of 
the people." I said, "What you want, I think, is a 
clear view of that Catholic unity which has been lost, 
and a lively charity and zeal to restore it." They re- 
peated, " Yes, that Catholic Unity of which you seem 
now in England to have so clear a view." 

They told me that the Metropolitan of Moscow, 
Philaret, was prevented from marrying by Platon, who 
said to him, " You must be my successor." They said 
that Philaret is "quite, Orthodox," and they do not 
seem to have any suspicion of the orthodoxy of Platon, 
whose short History of the Russian Church (very bitter 
against the Pope and the Jesuits) they strongly re- 
commended. 

In spite of their gloomy apprehensions from libe- 



Continued. 207 



ralism and spiritual deadness, and at the very time that 
they were lamenting that monasticisn^ in its true sense 
and spirit, has been reduced very low, they boasted that 
the monks, however, have saved Russia, not only in 
time past, when they were more numerous and more 
powerful, and when the Troitsa Monastery of St. 
Sergius headed that national rising against Latin Poles 
which placed the Romanoffs on the throne, but also 
quite recently. At another time, while asking questions 
about the Anglican Church with a friendly interest, and 
with a wish that it might be capable of uniting with 
their own, one of them exclaimed, " Ah ! if you admit 
the Filioque into the Creed, and will not omit it, there is 
not the least possibility of union. Our Emperor is power- 
ful, very powerful : they say he has a million of men in 
his army ; but if he attempted to make a union with the 
Latins on those terms, he would only be subverting his 
throne, and plunging Russia into unheard of calamities. 
There was a Minister (Prince Alexander Galitsin, now 
sixty years old) a great favourite of the Emperor 
Alexander who had some such scheme, but it was 
stopped at once by the firmness of one of our archi- 
mandrites named Photius. And he it was who after- 
wards made such effectual remonstrances against the 
Bible Societies, which had been established too by the 
same Minister. Those Societies, we are well aware, 
would have introduced into Russia all the heresies of 



208 Sergiefsky Reminiscences 

Protestantism, and would have substituted for Chris- 
tianity indifference as to religious opinions. And yet 
our Church, unlike the Roman, would certainly en- 
courage the people to read the Bible." 

Once when I was lamenting the division of East and 
West, the archimandrite said: "No, I think it has 
been permitted for good, that the liberties of the 
Church, and a pure testimony to Antiquity, might be 
preserved for future unity. Else we might here have 
been enslaved by the Pope." I said : " We in England 
comfort ourselves with like reflections." The Greeks in 
like manner often say that God has raised up the Turk 
to defend them against the Pope ! 

The Archimandrite and his Yicar both asked " why 
have not the English a bishop at Petersburg? The 
Lutherans have their Superintendent, and the Catholics 
have an Archbishop." I replied : " The Anglican 
Church has never yet invaded the diocese of other 
bishops." They did not seem to see how it could be 
an invasion. As usual, I found fault with them for 
calling any of the Latins, and still more for calling the 
Latins living here in Russia, Catholiques. At this they 
laughed good-humouredly, and said : " Though you 
have corrected us for this twenty times, still we find 
the same word continually turning out." 

They constantly spoke of " Confessions " (as we do 
of Denominations), and could not understand my adding 



Continued. 209 



the note of original and legitimate jurisdiction in this 
or that diocese or region ; and when I claimed for 
the British Churches a right to adhere to or to return 
to those decrees of British or other Western Synods, 
which disallowed the Canon of the Second Nicene 
Council for the reverencing of images, they insisted 
that that council had always been received by the Pope, 
who was Patriarch of the West ; and they seemed to 
think that the Pope's authority was quite enough to 
overrule the opposition of any local Western churches. 
Besides the Procession of the Holy G-host from the 
Son, the source of which doctrine the Archimandrite 
found in Origen (and Augustine he regarded as in a 
great measure a disciple of Origen), and some passages, 
seeming to favour it, which he had found afterwards to 
be Latin interpolations, they spoke against the omission 
of the Invocation of the Holy Ghost in the Latin Mass 
as a change which one of them thought to be the 
second in magnitude of all their errors, rendering 
even the consecration doubtful : also, against their 
consecrating in Azymes, multiplying altars and 
masses in the same church, and muttering low 
masses. They extolled the greater antiquity and 
greater propriety of various observances in their own 
rite ; as the fixing of the Holy Table in the midst of 
the sanctuary, and not against the wall ; their practice of 
baptizing by trine immersion, of giving the Chrism and 

p 



2io Sergiefsky Reminiscences continued. 

the Holy Communion at once to the baptized, and 
not disjoining them ; of calling not one priest only but 
" the elders, i.e. the priests," together to anoint the sick, 
and using that unction for recovery, not simply as a pre- 
paration for death. They spoke too against Purgatory, 
and against Indulgences, and against the use for divine 
worship of a language altogether unknown to the 
people ; and they blamed the Latins for calling them 
all monks " of the Order of St. Basil," whereas they 
said, " St. Basil himself was rather a monk of our 
order, which came from Egypt. The Copts of Egypt 
to this day are much nearer to us than they are to the 
Latins, as the Latins themselves are forced to admit, 
and they would be much more easily converted to us." 
M. Mouravieff thinks that the Armenians also (who, 
he says, have long lost the Monophysite heresy) might 
easily be united to the Russian Church if it were not 
for the prejudices of the Greeks : as I have already said. 
They approved of the use of confessionals in the Latin 
churches. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 
Sergiefsky Reminiscences continued. 

A S to Lutherans, they observed that the Lutherans 
*-* have abolished the sacrifice of the liturgy (or 
mass), and have none. 

Then, besides the priesthood, the Protestants have 
abolished the Chrism or Confirmation, and they deny 
the intercession of the Saints, and revile the relics and 
the holy icons, and deny the Seven Sacraments. 

The Archimandrite said that not long ago the priest 
of that parish at St. Petersburg, in which the Lutheran 
Superintendent lives, was sent for to the house of the 
Superintendent to sing a moleben (consolation) there, 
with the Te Deum, I think, for some family occasion ; 
and he supposed that this was for some Eussian tenant 
lodger, or visitor; but he was greatly astonished tc 
find afterwards that it was desired by the Lutheran 
Superintendent himself. When he expressed his 
surprise, he was answered : " Ah ! Batushka, we have 
not any of those consolations which are to be found in 
your rites and ceremonies." 

p 2 



212 Sergiefsky Reminiscences 

Note that these monks did not mention as one of 
the errors of the Lutherans their ascribing a super- 
episcopal power to the civil laws. 

"It seems, "they said, " that the Latins "(Catholiques, 
they generally said, but I tried to make them say 
Latins or Komanists) " and the Lutherans must have 
misrepresented and calumniated the Anglican Church. 
We know only French and German books, which 
describe the English sometimes as Lutherans, some- 
times as Calvinists, and sometimes as a mixture 
between the two." " Well," I said, " you have not 
found either Lutheranism or Calvinism, I think, in 
Bishop Andrewes' Preces Privatse " (which I had 
given them, and with which, like the Archpriest 
Koutnevich, they were much pleased). " No, indeed," 
they said ; and turning to the title " Intercessiones " 
and to the next, " Gloria tibi Domine," &c., they said, 
" A Lutheran would never have written that." 

They asked many questions : " Have you any 
Lutherans among you ? " Answer : " All the sects in 
England are rather of Calvinistic origin ; but the 
Wesleyan Methodists have the Lutheran doctrine of 
Justification by faith, which Wesley learned from 
Jacob Boehmen." " If a Lutheran pastor (or Presby- 
terian minister) wishes to join the Anglican Church, 
how is he received ?" Answer: "As a layman." 
" Have you retained the Sacrament of Chrism or 



Continued. 2 1 3 



Confirmation 1 Have yon the invocation of the Holy 
Ghost in your Liturgy, or do you follow the Roman 
Church, which now consecrates without any invocation 
(for they have changed their Liturgy and omitted the 
Invocation) by the recitation only of Christ's words 1 
Do you consecrate Azymes, or leavened bread 1 Have 
you many altars in one church, and low masses, or not ? 
Do you give the Communion in both kinds to the 
people 1 Are your Church Offices in English or in 
Latin? Have you phenolia, or the Latin vestment 
(chasuble) answering to them ? Of what form are the 
mitres of your bishops, and their croziers ? Have you 
altars like ours, or like those of the Catholiques 1 
Have you crosses and lights on the altar "? How many ? 
and incense in your worship ? Have you the invoca- 
tion of the Saints 1 and Kelics of Saints ? and holy 
Icons 1 " Answer : " In all these things and in number- 
less others the Anglican Church has by successive 
violences and other influences been stripped perfectly 
bare." 

"It is not long ago," the Archimandrite said, " that 
a lady presented to me an Anglican ' Pastor ' or 
* Ministre,' who was quite a ' gentleman,' but who by 
no means prepared me to find such prayers as these (of 
Bishop Andre wes), which you have given me, used or 
recommended by an Anglican bishop. For that pastor 
told me that there are only two sacraments (or mys- 



2 1 4 Sergiefsky Rem in iscences 

teries), and that matrimony is not a sacrament, though 
St. Paul expressly says it is ; and it is the only one of the 
seven to which the name mystery or sacrament is formally 
given in Holy Scripture." Also he noticed that Bishop 
Andrewes admitted the intercession of the Blessed 
Virgin and the saints, the Real Presence, Prayers for 
the Departed, &c., &c. " Certainly," he said, " no Lu- 
theran or Calvinist would ever have compiled or used 
this book. But do your people really acknowledge this 
bishop?" Answer: "Certainly they do, and they all 
agree to call him one of the best and greatest divines of 
their Church." 

On Saturday, September 28 [o.s.], the Vicar being in 
St. Petersburg yesterday saw there an English lady, a 
member of the Anglican Church, who assured him that 
they have in their Church no such thing as a deacon. 
On the other hand, the Archimandrite mentioned with 
pleasure that he had found in Bishop Andrewes' Preces 
Privates two hymns which they sing here every morning 
and evening, and he showed them to me in his Slavonic 
Psalter. He told his friend, the Archimandrite Athana- 
sius, of the Nef sky Lavra, whom I must go and see, that 
it seemed that the Latins had misrepresented, after their 
fashion, the Anglican Church. They asked : " What 
part does the deacon take in the services of your 
Church 1 Does he wear an Orarion like ours (so as to 
be distinguishable from a common clerk) and a tunicle 1 



Continued. 2 1 5 



Of what stuff and colour is it 1 and how many crosses 
are there upon it 1 " 

They asked whether we had in our Churches 
any " Relics of Saints," and said that they were con- 
tinually finding in Russia uncorrupted bodies of saints, 
which are to be seen and touched in their churches ; 
and persons possessed are often brought to them and 
evil spirits expelled. 

They spoke too of confession, to which the people 
come during Lent, finding the priest in the church 
either on Friday after the Matins, or on the Saturday 
(the Subbot) after Vespers (after the Great Compline), 
or else going to his house. He has a cross with him, 
and lays the end of his epitrachelion or stole on the head 
of the penitent in giving him absolution. They asked 
whether we also have such confession and absolution *? 
I replied, as I had replied on the same subject to the 
Archpriest Koutnevich, referring to our " Visitation of 
the Sick," &c. 



CHAPTER XL. 
Sergiefsky Reminiscences continued. 



they said : "But if the Anglican Church is 
so much like ours, why should we be divided ? " 
I said : "I am in heart and wish a member of your 
Church while I am here." They said : " Ah ! you must 
talk to our bishops, and see what they say : you see 
we are only poor monks. But then you are only an 
individual ; the thing necessary is to know what are 
the sentiments of your Church." Answer: "I speak 
as being a member of the Church from which I come, 
and I do not wish to misrepresent it ; but others speak 
contrary to me, and, as I think, to their Church : of 
such I know that there are very many." " But what," 
they asked, " is the opinion of your bishops on these 
matters ? " 

The Archimandrite said he would learn English for 
the good of the Church, and asked for a list of good 
English books. The Vicar said he would learn too. On 
this I asked the archimandrite whether he would 
receive an offering of alms to the monastery to engage 



Sergiefsky Reminiscences continued. 2 1 7 

their prayers for the Church of England, that it may 
be delivered from all its enemies, and united in com- 
munion with the Eastern Churches. But he at once 
answered that he could not. " I must ask Count Pra- 
tasoff and the Synod." I asked : " But cannot you 
receive alms from individuals or from families for 
prayers for the good of their souls 1 " " Yes," he said, 
" we can ; and then we put a particle taken from a 
prosphora (to represent the giver of that oblation) on 
the disk or paten, together with the rest of the particles 
taken from the five prosphorce always used, and make 
mention of him after the rest in the Liturgy." " And 
cannot you, then, do this for the Church of England, or 
for the intention of any one of her members who seeks 
rU " " No," he said, " that is impossible. For in a 
matter concerning other Churches, we may do nothing 
without consulting the bishop, and he again would 
have to apply to the Synod." l 

" We do pray every day for the unity of the Church ; 
but a special prayer is another thing. You are going 
back to Petersburg, and, since you are already in com- 
munication with Count Pratasoff and M. Mouravieff, 
you have every facility ; and the Synod itself will be 

1 [There is nothing unreasonable in this. Mr. Palmer asked 
them to recognize the English Church, as a Church, and to pray 
for its purification and prosperity. This was deciding what may 
be called a dogmatic fact.] 



218 Sergiefsky Reminiscences 

very glad to know what doctrine you hold, and I dare 
say it would be ready to appoint some one or more to 
meet and confer with any who might be appointed by 
the Anglican Church." I said, " I do not think that 
things will go on so rapidly as that. More frequent 
communication and better knowledge of one another 
may produce gradually a good feeling ; but at present 
we are still under a cloud; still righting as if for our lives; 
and all the outward surface of things among us is Pro- 
testant, and would shock members of other Churches 
at every point. It will not be till we get the upper 
hand, and the outward appearance of things changes, 
as it will then change rapidly, that we may hope to see 
excited in foreign Churches such a sympathy and 
interest as may lead to reunion. As yet we have not 
by any means the upper hand, but virtue goes so 
sensibly out of the Church at every blow struck at her 
by her enemies (the Protestant and Popish schismatics) 
or by the Civil Government, that already we feel a lively 
hope that all will end well." " Ah," they said, " if 
there could be a union of the Eastern and English 
Churches we should rejoice much more for that than 
for the return of the Uniats : the world would not be 
long divided." I said, " This work must be begun by 
our learning to wish for it and to pray for it." " Well," 
they said, " you will go back to Petersburg, and God 
will prosper you, we hope." 



Continued. 219 



They suggested that the best thing for me to do 
would be to ask Count Pratasoff and M. Mouravieff to 
put me into the Spiritual Academy. I replied that 
that was just what I had myself wished and asked for : 
but that for some reason they were against it. They 
said : " The students in the Academy ought to learn 
English : at present they read only German and 
French, and the German and French writers, we see 
now, both Catholics and Protestants, misrepresent the 
Anglican Church. Besides that, however, we cannot but 
think that the English were strangely ignorant of their 
own Church and religion ; for they seem to be almost 
all in outward behaviour and in their language mere 
Protestants, holding all kinds of opinions, and wor- 
shipping with different Protestant sects." 

Father Michol Tchihacheff is by origin from Pskoff, 
and the Archimandrite Ignatius Brenchininoff is from 
Novgorod. They were both in the army. Tchihacheff 
had a Lutheran preceptor at first, who told him that 
the Latin confession was Eglise, the Greek only culte, 
which for some time he believed to be true. The 
Emperor liked Brenchininoff; and the friends of both 
of them were much opposed to their becoming monks, 
and annoyed at it. The Emperor too did not like that 
Brenchininoff should become a monk ; but at length 
he gave him this place, and desired to see him again 
that he might find out whether he liked him as well as 



22O Sergiefsky Reminiscences continued. 

a monk as he had liked him before as a soldier. Now 
they go every year at Easter to congratulate the Emperor 
on his birthday. Another of the monks was also a 
soldier, which may account for his speaking French. 
The title given to the Archimandrite is in English, 
High-Venerability. The Archimandrite- Vicar is Theo- 
phanes. Eather Alexis Batchkoff was a merchant. 
Theodore was intended for the army : he, having not 
yet taken the mandya, has no monastic name. When 
I spoke of their having borrowed so much Latin ter- 
minology (and some ritual customs too) from the West, 
the vicar said : " Why, Kieif, the source of all our 
schools was quite under Latin influence, and there they 
were in close contact with the Uniats and the Poles." 



CHAPTER XLL 

Return to Petersburg with one of the Sergiefsky 
Monks. 

Monday, September 30th [o.s.], I returned to 
Petersburg, one of the Fathers accompanying me. 
I said that it was desirable that the monasteries should 
be again endowed with property, and so rendered more 
independent of secular influence. " Ah ! " he replied, 
" what we want is a Patriarch. As it is now, Pratasoff 
is our Patriarch, though a soldier, as he represents the 
Emperor. He goes to balls and theatres, dances well, 
and is ' un tres galant homme mais ' " I began to 
qualify this, as if he were only the Great Logothete 
(6 /*eyas Aoyoflenys), &c., &c. " Yes, yes," he said, " if 
all the bishops opposed any dangerous innovation, it 
could not be effected, except through the Synod ; but if 
the Synod (through the influence of the Crown) were to 
do anything bad, why, we should have to submit : there 
would only be so many more Raskolniks (dissenters)." 
Speaking of the present composition of the Synod, he 
admitted that it was bad to have two priests placed 



222 Return to Petersburg 

on a footing of perfect equality with bishops to govern 
the Church. " The best excuse that can be made is to 
say, that they may be useful to represent the married 
clergy, and to explain all matters connected with their 
state, all the other members of the Synod being 
monks. Philaret of Moscow was made Archbishop at 
the age of thirty ; the earliest age at which a monk 
under Peter the Great's rules can become a priest. He 
is so subtle (fin) and versatile, that he can turn the 
Synod round his finger, and make them believe black to 
be white. "Whatever he takes up will be done, that is, if 
the Count Pratasoff approves. He, Philaret, is very well 
in his present place, as second; but Heaven preserve us 
from having him as Metropolitan at Petersburg ! He is 
ambitious ; and I should fear if the Count wished to make 
any bad innovation, he would bring his mind to it, and 
together with himself he would bring over all the rest. 
However, he is quite orthodox. The old Metropolitan 
Seraphim is a cypher. The Metropolitan Philaret of 
Kieff is a friend of the monks, an excellent and ortho- 
dox man, but retiring, and of no eloquence. Moura- 
vieff lives a l regular life, different from the rest, and he 
is in a manner near to becoming a monk. It is better 
to be Unter-Prokuror than to be Archimandrite, or 
meme eveque, or meme archeveque, or metropoli- 

1 [Monastic?] 



with one of the Monks. 223 

tain " (laughing) ; &c., &c. All read and admire his 
books. He brought (continued the Father) the 
French Ambassador, M. de Barante, to be present at 
our liturgy, one day in Lent (i.e. in 1840), and he 
dined with us afterwards, as you did the other day on 
the festival of St. Sergius. He said openly that he saw 
that in many respects we are more primitive in oar 
liturgy than are the Latins. Some time afterwards the 
Archimandrite met Madame de Barante at Petersburg, 
and talked with her about some ascetic book, and 
pleased her so much, that she insisted on his coming to 
their house. This he did, and dined there, and I (said 
my companion) was with him. This was afterwards 
reported to the Emperor (though he had first consulted 
Pratasoff, who thought it well that he should go) by 
some one who was jealous of him for having access to 
the Emperor and being in his favour. And the Em- 
peror said : " Qu'il reste dans son convent ! " And 
this order has only so far been relaxed since, through 
the 'intercession of the Metropolitan, that he may now 
go on business of his convent to the city. " In old 
time," he said, " our princes of the line of Ruric were 
often monks, and even saints. Now they are all 
soldiers ; and nothing is worshipped but what is mili- 
tary." 

I said perhaps Russia is preparing for her great 
mission the deliverance of the Eastern Churches and 



224 Return to Petersburg. 

the overthrow of the Turkish Empire. It is for the 
interest of true Catholicism that the Eastern Churches 
should recover themselves, and that their life and 
power should tell upon the enslaved and corrupted 
Churches of the West. 

He went on and said : " The present military 
mania is necessarily very unfavourable to the strict 
morality and simplicity of early times. Now the 
Emperor, instead of wearing a beard and a kaftan, as of 
old, is always surrounded by soldiers, and he goes to 
the theatre." He said that' "there are some families 
living in this neighbourhood to whom the monks some- 
times, when invited, go out. They find that they 
need to eat more of their fish diet, and that they get 
weak in Lent, when they do not eat fish except on 
Sabbaths and Sundays. Now the clergy are a caste, 
and all the higher classes of this world, not to mention 
princes, set their political expediency and worldly 
fashions above religion and the Church. A true type 
and beau ideal of the due relations of Church and 
State was once exhibited in Russia by the Patriarch 
Philaret and the Tzar Michael ; when the secular 
power was with the son, but honour, reverence, and 
the obedience of affection was due to the father, and 
was given to him." 



CHAPTER XLIL 
Conversation with M. Mouravieff. 

"l^TEXT day, October 1 [o.s.], I saw M. Mouravieff, 
-** ^ and was led to ask him, ' * Could you not make two 
or three of your Monasteries into learned Societies, like 
those of the Benedictines T M. Mouravieff said, " Much 
cannot be done at present. If forced celibacy is the 
trouble of the Latin Church, forced marriage is that of 
ours. And this is contrary to the spirit of the Canons, 
contrary to the directions of St. Paul. It rests merely 
on local custom. Nearly all our clergy, black as well 
as white, are sons of clerks. So they are a complete 
caste. Nobles, merchants, soldiers, and princes are 
free to become priests, but they never do. But what 
is to be done 1 "We do not live now in the age of the 
Councils, when such things could be changed." 

Again, he said, " Our monks, with few exceptions, 
are all peasants. The ritual offices of the monks of the 
Thebaid were imported into Russia entire ; and if they 

Q 



226 Conversation 



were all said, as they ought to be, Matins would often 
take five or six hours, Liturgy two, Vespers and the 
rest three ; in all, from eleven to thirteen hours, so as 
to leave but short intervals for food and rest, and 
certainly not much time for study. In actual use they 
are somewhat curtailed, and they are further shortened 
by being hurried over ; still they occupy a large part of 
the day." K.B. Those I heard at the Sergiefsky took 
six or seven hours. ''And our monasteries have never 
been anything more than Houses of Prayer. Certainly, 
it might be well to change somewhat ; mais, gue 
voulez-vous ? We must do the best we can, and im- 
prove what we have got." 

I told him how the monks had advised me to ask 
for a cell in the Spiritual Academy. He said, " They 
are always occupied; you would see nobody. The 
interior of the Academy would not please you ; you would 
have fleas, bugs, and other annoyances. The inmates 
are not a community, but peasant clergy and sons of 
clergy, with all their peculiarities and prejudices ; you 
would be a sort of strange animal for them. They 
would regard you as a heretic ; and their having an 
English deacon there would be a scandal. They have 
not your ideas of unity, and would not understand 
them." 

I said, " It seems they can enter into Protestant 
ideas ; why not into Catholic ? One might perhaps do 



with M. Mouravieff. 227 

something to conciliate them, and to change their dis- 
positions towards us." 

He answered, " You would not get on among them, 
not even though you conformed to all their usages ; and 
the Eussian youths are very mischievous and sarcastic, 
and they might make you uncomfortable. Why not 
go and stay in the Sergiefsky ?" I said, "When I 
spoke of that to them, they suggested rather the 
Nefsky or the Academy." " Oh, that," he said, " was 
only because the Archimandrite was not authorized to 
offer you a cell. In the meantime though I don't 
think you will find one you may see if you can get 
into the house of a white priest." And he recom- 
mended me to cultivate the acquaintance of the under- 
priest of the Isaac Church, named Stratelatoff. He 
said, "It is only because the Archimandrite and some 
of the monks at the Sergiefsky are gentlemen, that 
they received you so well there. Not only white clergy, 
but monks too, anywhere else, would have been far from 
cordial." 

He said that u in the last century, here, as every- 
where else, there was a leaning towards Protestantism. 
Peter III. and Catherine II. did much mischief, and 
had well-nigh abolished the monasteries ; but now, all 
that is past, and there is everywhere a reaction ; and 
the monks have nothing to fear. The only thing to be 
done now is, to keep things as they are, and to improve 
Q 2 



228 Conversation with M. Mouravieff. 



them. You see, I speak frankly with you. I do not 
show you only our good side." I said, " There is 
good enough for my purpose ; for my object is chiefly 
to help towards the correction of great and manifest 
evils in my own communion." 



CHAPTER XLIIL 

Conversations with M. Mouravieff y M. Skreepitsin, 
and the Priest Stratelatoff. 



2 [o.s.]. One, p.m., at the Synod, where 
I saw M. Mouravieff and M. Skreepitsin. 1 Had 
some further conversation with M. Mouravieff. On my 
urging on him, as on F r . Brenchininoff, a special prayer 
for the Anglican Church, he said, " We know you only 
as heretics. You separated from the Latin Church 300 
years ago, as the Latins had before that fallen away 
from the Greeks. We think even the Latin Church 
heretical ; but you are an apostasy from an apostasy ; a 
progression from bad to worse." I said, " We never 
separated by any synodical act from the communion of 
the Latin Churches, nor from that of the Eastern either. 
" How ? " he exclaimed, " you were part of the Pope's 
patriarchate, and you rebelled against him." I said, 
"The Pope our Patriarch ! " " How 1 " he said, " did 
he not send Augustine to convert you 1 anyhow the 

1 [This gentleman seems to have had a place in Count Prata- 
soff's Chancery with M. Mouravieff j elsewhere he is called the 
Count's " colleague."] 



230 Conversations with M. Mouravieff, 

Pope had acquired, and the Church had confirmed to 
him, very great power. And did not one of your kings 
even make England a fief of the Pope 1 " 

He continued, " You had better say nothing to Count 
Pratasoff of that desire of yours for a special prayer for 
the Anglican Church. It is an idea quite new and 
unheard of. 2 Our business is to improve our own 
Church, and to keep in view the Raskolniks, not to 
scandalize our people by introducing any such novelty. 
What would the English and the French Ambassadors 
here say to it ? Then, again, there are the Eastern 
Patriarchs, who know you only through the Latin 
Church, through the Pope. If we had any commu- 
nication with your Church, it must be through the 
Pope, and the Church of Eome, nor can we recognize 
you otherwise. Reconcile yourself to your own 
Patriarch first, and then come and talk to us, if you 
think you have anything to say to us. And you must 
imagine, not only what our Raskolniks and what the 
Greeks would say, but what would be said by the Latins, 
who are always watching us, and what by the Uniats, 
who have been so long in union with Rome." 

2 [As before, it need not be meant by this that they positively 
rejected the idea of praying for individual heretics, but of praying 
for an heretical Church ; for they could not pray for it as a Church 
without acknowledging its existence ; whereas Greece and Rome 
know Englishmen only as " Lutherans " and " Calvinists," and 
ignore the " Church of England."] 



M. Skreepitsin and M. Stratelatoff. 231 

Being questioned by M. Skreepitsin, I owned without 
reserve the difference existing between our rules and 
our popular practices, taking to ourselves the verse of 
the Psalm, "Our soul is brought low, even to the 
dust." He asked, " Are there many in England who 
desire a real reformation ? " and he added, " The 
Eoman Church is looking up again in England, is it 
not ? " I said, " Politically the Irish Papists and the 
Protestant Dissenters now have much power." 

October 3 [o.s.]. By suggestion of Count 
Pratasoff, I wrote to the Director of the Gymnasium, 
who was to find a man for me to teach me E.USS 
and Slavonic. Also I called on the priest Strate- 
latoff, who lives in the same court with M. Malloff, 
and who had seen me at the Synod. We conversed in 
Latin. Respecting the Sacraments, he said that they 
also have the same distinction as I made between the 
two principal and the other five. " As to the Pro- 
cession" he said, " our doctrine is this, Spiritum 
Sanctum a Patre per Filium procedere, and that from 
all eternity the Spirit is the proper Spirit of the Son, 
not communicated to Him, but immanent in Him as 
His own Spirit." 

On Sunday the 6th I saw him again. He said, " I 
have now read through your 'Introduction,' and I 
find it nearly all quite agreeable to our doctrine. 
There are, however, one or two points in which I 



232 Conversations with M. Mouravieffand others. 

perceive a difference, as about the Procession and about 
Transubstantiation. " 

When I observed that Theophanes (that is, Zoer- 
nikav) admits passages in which the Holy Ghost is said 
to receive His substance from the Son, which is enough 
for us, he asked where were those passages, and he 
wished me to point them out. " Our Church," he said, 
" allows BLOLJ per Filium, but nothing beyond that." I 
replied " that for me is a virtual agreement with us." 
(N.B. But it is not enough for that Latin doctrine, 
which I then thought I was defending.) He did not 
see why I attached importance to the admission or 
exclusion of the word accidents, or why I distinguished 
the natural or physical substance from the spiritual. 
He knew nothing of any Synods 3 in the West having 
rejected the Seventh Council, and said that with them 
the Pope stood for all the West. 

3 [Council of Frankfort, A.D. 794 ?] 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

Polemical Attack on Mr. Palmer by a Russian 
Lady. 

/^vCTOBEK 7 [o.s.]. Dined at M. Riumine's, a 
>-^ Eussian family. My host, speaking French and 
English, used such phrases as made one think of Dr. 
Pinkerton and the Bible Society ; but a Russian lady, 
who was one of the party, and sister to the Superioress 
of an Institute, attacked me with vivacity on the 
highest orthodox ground. " I have heard of you," she 
said ; " you have received, I understand, an absolute 
refusal to your proposal. I have been told you have 
brought a letter from your Church ; but that can never 
be ! No ! never. Our Church is most tolerant, and 
molests none in his own religion. You may belong to 
any of these ; but why should you interfere with us 1 
We differ from the Catholics only in some very small 
points, yet we are quite impartial in our sympathies 
and aversions. Notre religion, et notre Eglise, est 
si bien consolidee ; si bien consolidee qu'il serait impos- 
sible. Impossible ! " she repeated. " No ! " she said, 



234 A L ady's polem ical A ttack 

" no kind of union will ever be made by us so long as 
the world lasts, except on the condition that those who 
wish to unite conform to everything, 'jusqu'au plus petit 
rite ;' and that, not only while here, but in their own 
country also. There are, I know, all sorts of political 
schemes, which have no place in religion. You can 
see much more clearly than I can explain what would 
be all the consequences, if you obtained what you are 
seeking. It would be to upset (bouleverser) all Russia, 
There are here different ambassadors M. de Barante 
and others. What would they say ? No, no : ' des 
torrents de sang doivent couler, avant que cela aie lieu,' " 
&c., &c. I laughed, and said I had no public mission 
whatever ; if I asked to be admitted to communion, 
I did so only because I thought it to be my personal 
duty. She interrupted me, " To give communion to 
you would be to give it to all your church. I have 
heard about it all. You have your own church here ; 
what do you want with ours ? " 

I explained to her, but quite in vain, the doctrine of 
the unity of the Catholic Church. I urged that she 
could not mean to claim for the Russian or Eastern 
Church that it was identical with the whole true 
Church. But she disclaimed the desire of any further 
unity. She often repeated : " Our Church is most 
tolerant ; which English Church do you belong to 1 
for there are two here. Is your worship sermon only 1 



on Mr. Palmer. 235 



or is there prayer and ritual '\ Is your Church only in 
Oxford 1 have you a chapel in London ? " She re- 
turned to the idea of my having some public mission, or 
some political scheme. I told her that my public pro- 
posal for intercommunion on Catholic principles would 
probably meet with as much opposition in England as 
it would in Eussia, for the English are as much dis- 
posed as the Russians to measure everything by them- 
selves. 

She took up the word " Catholic," and said, " We 
(Russians and Greeks she meant) are Ca/pholics, but 
not Roman Catholics." Here our host turned the con- 
versation, by the introduction of religious notions 
which were as unpalatable to her as mine. He spoke 
of the Sacraments of Baptism and the Holy Eucharist, 
and of the Church, in language which manifested a ten- 
dency in his own mind to separate the body of religion 
from the inward spirit. I said, " You have come in 
contact with dangerous ideas." On this, Mdlle N". 
sided with me against him. He went to say that all 
prayers for the dead are wrapped up in " Thy kingdom 
come," and that he recognized all as Christians who 
show by their answers that they love Jesus Christ. 
He spoke of M. Malloff's sermons as excellent. 

Note, that when the Emperor Alexander was at Lay- 
bach [1821 ?], the Austrian Slavonian soldiers attending 
the Liturgy at his tent-church, and seeing all the same as 



236 At M. Riumine's. 



in their own worship, and hearing the Church-Slavonic, 
from which their vernacular Slavonic differs less than 
does the Russ, exclaimed publicly, according to Sir 
James Wylie, " This is our Emperor." At which the 
Emperor Alexander was much annoyed ; and he and 
the Austrian ministers had some difficulty in prevent- 
ing a still greater excitement. And it appears that 
any Russian Emperor might have them all with him 
20,000,000 of Slavonians Sir James says, (besides 
those which he has already), if he were to proclaim 
himself Emperor of the Slavs. There are fine roads 
within the Austrian territory which end suddenly 
before they reach the frontier, and all communication 
is strictly interdicted. It is even felony to possess a 
Russian book(?). So Austria has another source of 
weakness besides the Magyars of Hungary. 



CHAPTER XLV. 
Second Disciission with the A rchpriest. 

/^vCTOBEK 10 [O.B.]. Went with Mr. Blackmore 
^^ to see the Archpriest Kutnevich ; the conver- 
sation was all about the Procession and Transubstan- 
tiation. I was content with those passages of the 
Fathers on the former doctrine, which Theophanes 
Procopovich (or rather Zoernikav) himself admits, 
without needing the words " Filioque," or " Pro- 
cedere." For he admits passages in which the Holy 
Ghost is said to be from eternity, not only consub- 
stantial with the Son, but proprius ejus naturaliter, in 
eoque inhaerens, ut ipse in Patre, and to proceed 81 
avrov, per eum substantialiter, and to receive His 
substance from the Son ; only he would distinguish 
between receiving eternally the substance of the Son, 
and receiving it from the Son by an act of His 
Person, which distinction may be admitted. (Here 
I unintentionally yield all to the Greeks.) The 
Archpriest would not admit that the Holy Ghost was 



238 Second Discussion 

stated to have received His substance from the Son, nor 
would he admit any such distinction between the Sub- 
stance and the Personality. (Here he unintentionally 
reasons on the side of the Latins. 1 ) 

He denied the priority of the Son in relative order, 
on which I insisted ; and though he seemed to under- 
stand the argument, he said it all fell to the ground 
because there is neither priority or posteriority in eter- 
nity, but the notion of time did not come into the 
question, any more than into the argument of the 
ancient Fathers for the Son's co-eternity With the 
Father, derived from the sun and his rays. 

I had marked various passages of the Fathers, 
Athanasius, Gregory Nyssen, Cyril of Jerusalem, Epi- 
phanius, &c. ; but the Greeks have their own way of 
reading them, and the Archpriest insisted upon the 

1 [Mr. Palmer, if I understood him rightly, was in hopes that 
by the distinction of Substance and Person the antagonism 
between the Catholic Church and the Greeks might be destroyed, 
the Catholics maintaining the Procession, not according to 
person but according to substance, and the Greeks allowing it 
according to substance, though not according to person. But 
Petavius says, " Facile concesserunt Grseci Spiritum Sanctum 
ex [Patris et Filii] esse substantia, dummodo non ut Filius ex 
Patris Persona, sic ex Patris et [Filii] persona Spiritus esse 
dicatur. Veruni . . ridiculum est Spiritum Sanctum ex Filio 
esse at ex Filii substantia confitentem negare ex Filii esse per- 
sona, quia Filius nihil aliud est nisi Persona Filii." De Trin. 
vii. 15 fin.] 



with the Archpriest. 239 

authority of Scripture and the Councils, as a bar to all 
such speculative inferences and additions made by man 
(which is true, when individuals are in question, but 
not when used to limit the action of the church). In 
vain I repeated that the Greek Fathers, without the 
Latin, were enough for me ; he seemed to blame and 
refuse all, or be resolved to make them bend, Eomano 
potius quam Grseco more, to the sense of the modern 
Greeks, just as if what I brought from them were 
the irreverent and innovating speculation of my own 
thoughts. 

As to Transubstantiation, he found fault with my 
denial of it as held by them, especially with my saying 
that the Bread became Christ's " spiritual body," and 
that it was His Body "spiritually." I referred to 
St. Ambrose as my authority. He replied, " If St. 
Ambrose said so, he was only one man, but Christ's 
own words are stronger than all the evidence in the 
world. How else can it be 1 " I said St. Ambrose shall 
answer that : his words are : " As the creature that is 
fed is changed by baptism, so is his food changed." 
Presently the Archpriest allowed that the substance 
was not destroyed but changed, as common food is 
changed into our flesh. "Therefore," he said, "Kome 
has no need to suppose any such abolition," z and he said, 
(apropos of a point w^hich I went on to argue,) " The 
* [Vid. infr. p. 281, note.] 



240 Second Discussion with the Archpriest. 

accidents or appearances are miraculously retained." I 
said I could show him my doctrine in many Fathers, 
Latin and Greek ; he said, " I do not believe it, and 
if you can, I will say that they are wrong." I said, 
" We both professed to follow the unanimity of the 
Fathers. He answered, "Yes, their unanimity; but 
you might see in our Catechism what St. John Damas- 
cene says on this subject, and he wrote too at about the 
same time with that of Eatram or Bertram whose trea- 
tise you have lent me, but I have not had time to 
read it." 

At parting the Archpriest thanked me for having 
made him acquainted with our "Pastor." I stopped 
my ears, at which they both laughed, and he corrected 
himself, and said "Presbyter." 



CHAPTER XLVL 
Conversation with the Priest, Pafsky. 



11 [O.B.]. Went with Mr. Law's 
card to call on M. Pafsky, Protopope of the 
Church of the Tauride palace. He was preceptor to the 
Grand Duke Alexander, and was personally liked, but 
he was displaced through the Metropolitan Seraphim 
on account of his liberal opinions. He has published a 
book on the Eussian language, said to be the best of its 
kind. He has also translated into Russ for the 
S.P.C.K. the English Prayer-book, in which, following 
the French authorized edition, he has everywhere 
rendered the word Priest by Pastor. In the Creed, for 
" Catholic " he substitutes " Universelle." He reads 
French, but does not speak it. 

On my speaking of the XVIII. Articles of Bethlehem, 
he at once said, " They have made some alterations in 
them." About the Orthodox Confession he observed 
that the word Transubstantiation had been borrowed 
from the Latins : that Peter Mogila had studied at 



242 Conversation 



Paris, and was as good as under the orders of the Pope 
when he wrote. I said, "He seems to me to have 
been zealously orthodox except where he suspected no 
danger." He replied, " Ah ! ah ! the whole of that 
church of Little Russia was in contact with the Latins 
and the Uniats, and nothing derived from it could be 
free from suspicion. The Russian Church had always 
held aloof from such novelties, but the word Tran- 
substantiation has now at last been admitted by Philaret 
in his Catechism, and so stamped by the Synod with 
the authority of the Church. Still we are not bound 
to the (Roman) sense." I said, " Philaret's Catechism is 
only a modern version of the ' Orthodox Confession ;' 
and I do not see how any one can deny the authority 
of the Orthodox Confession, seeing that if it was 
corrected and approved first by a Synod held at Jassy 
in 1642, 1 in presence of the Patriarchal Exarch, 
and then by the four Patriarchs themselves, and 
it was originally drawn up in Russia and for Russia." 
"Not for our Russia (i.e. not for Muscovy)," he 
said. "And we were far from admitting whatever 

1 [" In the Synod of Jassy, held under Parthenius, Patriarch 
of Constantinople, the Orthodox Confession drawn up under the 
direction of Peter Mogila in Little Russia and revised and 
altered hy Malesius Syringa at Constantinople, was examined 
and approved." Blackmore's Russian Church, p. 396. It 
received the approbation of the four Patriarchs, ibid., p. 395. 
Mogila was made Metropolitan of Kieff in 1632.] 



with M. Pafsky. 243 

came from Kieff. On the contrary, we were always 
jealous of all that came from thence. And as for the 
Greeks, they were quite capable of being led into a 
blunder." I said, "The XVIII. Articles in the Greek 
certainly contain one absurd blunder, that about the 
Canon of Scripture, which the Russian Synod has 
corrected." "Yes, yes," he said, and laughed heartily. 
He said, " The question of Transubstantiation has never 
yet been closely examined among us." He held at the 
same time that the bread is changed into the real body 
of Christ. Presently he showed that on the subject of 
the Church his ideas were by no means orthodox ; for 
besides calling the Popish Churches, and societies 
indiscriminately, the Catholics and "the Catholic 
Church," which he does in common with everybody 
else here, he spoke of the Lutherans, the Anglicans, and 
the " Catholics," as all alike agreeing in fundamentals 
with the Greeks, as if opinions were Churches, and as 
if all these Confessions were equally parts of the true 
Church. I said, " The Lutherans none of them believe 
the change of the bread and wine in the Eucharist ; 
they reject confirmation, which St. Paul calls an element 
of Christianity, part of the foundation, and they are 
rarely free from heresy respecting both the two great 
sacraments." He said, "They believe all the Creed." 
"They do not receive all the words," I answered; 
"they have changed the word 'Catholic' and sub- 
B 2 



244 Conversation 

stituted * universal' or ' Christian.' Or, even if they re- 
ceive all the words, it is in a sense of their own, and that 
heretical." "Heretical?" he said, and laughed; "but 
they think it right : they receive the same Creed as we 
do, only they understand it differently." Answer. 
" But the truth lies not in opinion, and the authority is 
with the bishops, who also have the certainty arising 
from Christ's promise." He objected, "But you can 
no more pretend to that Apostolical authority than can 
the Lutherans, you have not the Apostolical succession 
of bishops." I said, "If I thought that, I would not 
remain a member of the Church of England. But the 
Lutherans, instead of protesting as against an unjust 
excommunication, declared that they had come out of 
Babylon, and founded new and human Churches out of 
the Bible." " Well," he said, " it was in a manner 
Babylon, so enormous were the corruptions." " Be it 
so, if you please," I said ; " but at any rate the rabble of 
the Protestant sects is more Babylon than Babylon 
itself." He laughed. I continued, "The very names 
they give to their new clergy show them to be no 
church." He said, "Pastor and Priest are all one; 
their Pastors or Priests were made by others, and they 
are ordained by imposition of hands, and hand down what 
they have received." I said, "Even if they had come 
originally from priests, those priests who first ordained 
pastors did not hand down any gift that they had received, 



with M. Pafsky. 245 

for they had received no power to ordain ; nor, if they 
had, did they ever profess to exercise it. If I laid 
hands on your servant here, professing to make him a 
preacher of my opinions, would that make him a deacon ? 
to say nothing of the priesthood, and of the episcopate ? " 
He laughed, and said, " No, certainly, it would not." 
" I therefore, at least, you admit, cannot hand down any- 
thing that I have received. And as for the Calvinists, 
Calvin was not even a deacon." He said, "At all 
events you Anglicans are in the same case with them, 
since you are equally excommunicated by the Pope." 
Answer. " A quarrel between Apostolical Churches, as 
that of the Easterns and the Westerns, and that of the 
English bishops against the Continental Latins, does 
not prove the nullity of either side, even though they 
anathematize and invade one another. It is different 
for individuals who rebel against the whole Apostolical 
Episcopate." He had by him our Prayer-book in 
French. 2 He confessed that the question of the 
visible Church is one with which they occupy them- 
selves very little. "There is just the same fixed 
character," he said, "in our Communion, and the same 

2 [Mr. Palmer repeats, " as published by authority for the 
Channel Islands. la this authorized translation used in the 
Churches, the word ' Catholic ' In the Creed is replaced by 
the word ' universelle ; ' and the word ' Priest ' is uniformly 
translated ' Ministre.' "] 



246 Conversation with M. Pafsky. 

complete separation from all others as there is in the 
Roman. Nor can we admit any one to communion 
unless he be reconciled to us as to another Church and 
religion." 

Mr. Law, on hearing that I had seen M. Pafsky, 
asked, " Well, you found him too Protestant for you \ " 
I said, "Yes, I found him heterodox enough." "I 
thought you would," he replied ; " hut I can tell you, 
for all that, that he is a very excellent man and much 
liked and respected; and he certainly is a man of 
superior understanding and requirements." 



CHAPTER XLVII. 
Conversation with the Priest Sidonsky. 

Q1UKDAY, October 13th [o.s.]. Went with my 
*~* teacher of Slavonic to see the priest Sidonsky, 
protopope of the Kazan Sobor, and Professor of Philo- 
sophy, who is well acquainted with German literature, 
but ill-looked upon, my master says, by the heads of 
the clergy, as mixing human philosophy with religion. 
We conversed in Latin. He said that he did not study 
German with any idea of adopting German doctrines. 
On my saying, " We think that moral philosophy ought 
to be a handmaid to religion and to the Church " he 
asked, " What philosophy do you follow? as that of 
Leibnitz, Des Cartes," &c. 1 I said, " We do not much 
like such modern and foreign writers. We read Aris- 
totle and Plato and certain writings of our own divines 
to connect them with orthodox theology. The Ger- 
mans are intellectual and laborious, but, owing to their 
unhappy state, all their books are infected with heresy. 
So it has been ever since they have made that wretched 



248 Conversation 



boast of having come out of Babylon." He seemed to 
assent. But when we spoke of the definition of the 
one visible Church of the Creed, though he saw and 
admitted that there was an inconsistency in their 
manner of speaking with regard to it, he yet said, " We 
have no need to examine or to settle that question ; and 
we never think about it. Our clergy not having 
acquired worldly power and pride, nor yielded to those 
corruptions which the clergy in the West yielded to, 
we have never felt any need of examining the question 
as regards the West." I said, "If it were not for the 
civil power which now hinders, but to which it is not 
safe to trust, you would both see internal divisions 
among yourselves multiply and spread, and, besides 
that, you would be unable to resist the force even of 
the pseudo-Catholicism of Rome. If you are a part 
only, where is the whole ? Show us that Mother which 
we confess in the Creed, and to whom obedience from 
you and from us alike is due. There cannot be a part 
without a whole. There is one Communion claiming 
distinctly to be the whole, and in point of extent and 
numbers having better claim than any other, which is 
named the Catholic Church by your own lips, and by 
those of all her other enemies, and she boldly says that 
you belong to her ; that you are a separated part, a 
dislocated limb, a rebellious child, a sheep that has 
strayed. Does not your conduct and language justify 



with M. Sidonsky. 249 

her ? You admit that you are only a part ; she says 
that she is the whole. You seem to confess it; for 
you call her Communion ' the Catholic Church/ and you 
can never bring yourselves to say distinctly what is that 
whole of which you are a part. Does not this look as 
if you were indeed what she says you are 1 You may say 
that you call yourselves Caplwlics and the Latins only 
Catholics. We too make sometimes a similar defence 
of ourselves, viz. ' They are only Koman Catholics, but 
we are the real Catholics.' .But in spite of all such 
excuses there is a real weight in popular language." 

"But suppose you take the other line, and assert, 
according to the esoteric doctrines of your Church 
books and formularies, that your Capholic Eastern 
Church is 'the whole Ecumenical Church, and that 
Catholicism is all Eastern by origin, as Rome says it is 
all Roman by obedience, still are you not strange people 
to pretend to be the whole Catholic Church 1 There 
are some millions of Lutherans and Calvinists subjects 
of the Russian Empire, whom, you ought to try to 
convert to the true faith and Church ; then, there are 
all the Latins, two-thirds of the Christian world ; and, 
not only have you shown no zeal or power to correct 
and convert them, but you have been actually following 
and imitating them, seeking learning and theology in 
their schools, adopting their scholastic novelties, even 
holding Synods and drawing up expositions of doctrine 



250 Conversation 



at their bidding and after their instructions. But let 
that pass ; let us say nothing of the enormous impro- 
bability of the supposition that half of the Church has 
fallen away as a body, and, since its defection has gone 
on increasing in spiritual power and extent in a greater 
degree than the orthodox j consider this, that in this 
one city and diocese you have had a colony of English 
(they tell me), 2000 or 3000, since the capital was 
transferred here. Now what have you done in 130 
years for their souls more than if they were a herd of 
swine 1 This is the zeal and charity of the One, Holy, 
Catholic, Apostolic Church ! " 

He said, " Our church has always shown great 
moderation and tolerance, and" (as M. Pafsky also 
boasted) "has been careful not to condemn others." 
I said, " such moderation is cruel to others, and suicidal 
towards herself." He said, " A certain kind of zeal for 
religion has caused the spilling of much blood." I 
replied, " Such zeal as causes fighting and blood- 
shed, is carnal and satanical; the right zeal would 
rather cause the pouring forth of many prayers and 
tears." He said, " I must allow that there has been a 
culpable negligence ; but nothing has forced us hitherto 
to consider the question of the definition of the Visible 
Church : whenever circumstances require it, it will no 
doubt be examined." I said, " The civil government 
is a very insecure bond of unity, as we are now learning 



with M. Sidonsky. 251 

by experience in England. Whenever you come to 
have a liberalizing emperor, with ministers like our Lord 
John Russell and Lord Melbourne, instead of Pratasoffs 
and Mouravieffs, to let loose the Raskolniks and the 
" Catoliks " to vex and attack your Church, then you 
too will no doubt discover that it would have been 
better, instead of sheltering yourselves behind the most 
autocratic Emperor, to have tried to think and speak 
and act like true Catholics, not only, by recitation of the 
Creed, confessing with your lips the unity of the Church, 
but believing it in your hearts, and manifesting that 
belief in words and deeds." 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 
Dinner at Admiral Rikard's. 

r I 1 HE same day I dined with Admiral Rikard, whose 
-^ sister is a Roman Catholic. His wife said that 
they have no idea of there , being any discrepancy or 
opposition between the Bible and the Church. The 
Admiral said, " Prince Alexander Galitsin * is the first 
man of all with the Emperor, and he takes care of the 
Imperial family when the Emperor is absent. It is 
true that he was prevented by the Archimandrite 
Photius from favouring and introducing missionaries, 
but certainly (whatever you may have heard) he never 
was on the point of making any union with Rome. 
He has a magnificent private chapel, and his mode of 
receiving his friends is to invite them to attend the 
service there, and then if they like, they can stay and 
converse with him for a short time afterwards. He 
lives very retired, and gives no parties." The Admiral 
said that when he was at Rome the Pope (Gregory XVI.) 

1 [Vid. supra., p. 138 ; infra, p. 258.] 



At A dmiral Rikard's. 253 

would not talk French to him for fear of making mis- 
takes, but he sent him one of their great palms, blessed 
on Palm Sunday, and at parting the Pope said to him, 
" Bicommando a lei i miei Cattolici," and when the 
Admiral seemed not to understand, he repeated with 
emotion the same words, " Ricommando a lei i miei 
Cattolici." Afterwards the Admiral (who had thought, 
or said that the " Catholiques " no more needed pro- 
tection than the other confessions, all being equally 
tolerated) perceived clearly enough what the Pope had 
been thinking of, when the Uniats were reconciled to 
the Russian Church (in 1839). The Admiral spoke 
with horror and wonder of the irreligion of the 
French. 



CHAPTER XLIX. 
The Emperor inquires after Mr. Palmer. 

/^vCTOBER 16th [o.s.]. A Russian gentleman 
^-^ called on me and told me that the wife of the 
present Marechal de la Noblesse at Petersburg, " having 
heard much of me from the Emperor," wished to see 
me. He took me the same morning to call on her. In 
the course of conversation, she asked me whether I 
should like to have an interview with the Emperor, as 
perhaps it might be possible for her to obtain one for 
me. I said that if any good could come of it, I should 
be glad, but I thought I had no sufficient reason for 
desiring it. She said, " Who can tell ? " I said I had 
no sort of public mission, nor authority, that my own 
private object needed no such personal presentation to 
the Emperor, and that I had good reason to be on my 
guard against giving any false impression, as some 
persons in England (to say nothing of the newspapers) 
were already disposed to regard me as undertaking, 



The Emperor inquires after Mr. Palmer. 255 

out of my own private presumption, something like a 
public mission. 

I had reason afterwards to feel satisfied that I had so 
answered, for Mr. Law, after giving a lesson in English 
to the Grand Duchess Alexandra, was asked by her 
whether he knew me, for " Papa told me yesterday 
that I had been sent by the University of Oxford to 
ascertain what possibility there might be of bringing 
about a union of the Churches." 

Mr. Biumine came and told me that his wife, being 
the evening before with Mde. Potemkin, had given as 
a reason for his not coming, that he had an English 
deacon with him, on which Mde. Potemkin said that she 
wished to see me ; so he took me with him, and pre- 
sented me to her, when she said that she had heard of 
me from the Emperor, who told her that I had come 
from Oxford to study the Eussian Church, and that the 
Ober-Prokuror, Count Pratasoff, had spoken favourably 
of me. 

About this same time Mr. Law told me that, as he 
was reading with the Grand Duchess Alexandra the 
reign of Queen Elizabeth, she suddenly exclaimed, 
" What a wicked old woman she was ! How I hate 
her ! " And then she asked him whether he knew me, 
and she continued, " He is sent by the University of 
Oxford to try to make union with our Church." Mr. 
Law said that was a mistake, but she insisted upon 



256 The Emperor inquires after Mr. Palmer. 

it. Mr. Law explained to her the distinction between 
the University and the separate Colleges at Oxford, 
and told her that what I had really brought was a 
letter of recommendation from the President of my 
College. But to return. 



CHAPTER L. 

Interview with Princess Potemkin and Prince 
Galitsin. 

"TV /TADAME POTEMKIN made me explain my 
object, asking what mission or approbation of 
superiors I had, &c., and among other questions she 
asked whether we had any ecclesiastical dress, and had 
I brought mine with me ? and she told me to come 
often to their house, and to come in my dress ; they 
had a church, and I could go to the services in it when 
I did not go elsewhere. She seemed to understand at 
once what I meant by asking to be admitted to Com- 
munion, so as to disclaim any voluntary separation. 
She misused the word Catholic like all the rest. She 
said she had once been under the influence of Evan- 
gelical Protestantism, and had still some tenderness 
towards it ; but she sees now that their use of words 
is not always correct, and adheres to Orthodoxy. In 
reply to some remarks on the general indifference and 
acquiescence in separation, she observed, " That is true, 



258 Interview with Princess Potemkin 

the Catholics have much more zeal, and we are deficient 
in that respect." She said, " Your bishops live quite like 
gentlemen and men of the world ; but though rich, 
they have not that spiritual character which ours have, 
nor the veneration attaching to it ; and for this reason 
I have supposed that they must be a new creation of 
Protestantism." 

While we were talking, Prince Galitsin l (the same 
that had been minister under the Emperor Alexander) 
came in. Mde. Potemkin was saying that the con- 
fession of all sins, venial and mortal alike, was required, 
but he cut short that discussion by observing that 
anciently matters of discipline varied, and Churches 
required from one another only agreement in essen- 
tials : " but now they are so fixed, each in its separate 
customs, that neither the Catholics nor we, nor the 
Anglicans I think, will yield a jot." Mde. Potemkin 
on my persisting in speaking only of the " Papists " or 
" Romanists " in England, objected, " But you do not 
deny the Churches on the Continent 1 " " Certainly not," 
I said. She said, " I, like you, would be most willing to 
communicate with the Catholics in those Churches, but I 
know that they would insist upon impossible conditions." 

The Prince had heard that Catholicism is increasing 
rapidly in England, and that even the most prejudiced 
Protestants are changing and favouring Catholicism. 

1 [ Vide supr., pp. 138, 207.] 



and Prince Galitsin. 259 

"I fear," he repeated, "that existing divisions are now 
so fixed that the only possible unity of the Church now 
is the inner unity of Christian feeling, &c., &c. Rome 
will never recognize the Anglican Church, except on 
terms of absolute submission. All depends on the 
political calculations of the court of Rome rather than 
on any force of truth or of Christian feeling : and the 
same may be said of the Greek Church too." Mde. 
Potemkin told him that I did not seek to effect any 
change, but, being convinced that the faith is one, and 
that my Church recognizes theirs, and that so we must 
be really agreed in all essentials, I sought communion 
without either changing my own or seeking to change 
their Church in other secondary things : and she 
added, " On con9oit facilement que les choses devraient 
etre ainsi, et qu'elles en etaient ainsi au commence- 
ment." The Prince said, " No doubt it must be diffi- 
cult to renounce the Church in which one has been 
baptized and bred up," &c., &c. Also he told the 
following story, from what source I know not. 

When Napoleon had the Pope with him, the Pope 
besought him to give up the Gallican Liberties. 
Napoleon referred him to the bishops. The Pope said 
it was of no use to talk to them, and produced an old 
discoloured paper on which was a retraction of those 
same liberties obtained from Louis XIV. on his death- 
bed. Napoleon asked him why nothing had ever been 
s 2 



260 Interview with Princess Potemkin 

heard of this, nor any use made of it \ The Pope 
answered that it would not have been prudent in him 
to attack the Gallican Church ; that might have caused 
a schism; but that the paper had been signed and 
given for the quieting of the king's conscience, and if 
he, Napoleon, would sign such another, he would keep 
that likewise, and make no untimely or inconvenient 
use of it. Napoleon replied, " C'est une betise." 2 The 
Prince supposed that all the Gallican Liberties are now 
also in full force, and that the king nominates simply 
the bishops, the Pope only confirming them. 

We talked about the definition of the visible Church, 
and of the word Catholic, which is in a manner sacra- 
mental ; of the influence of De Maistre's writings, and 
of his attempt to give the Eastern Orthodox Church a 
new nickname, calling it " TEglise Photienne," or " la 
secte Photienne." The Prince said, "Ah ! yes, he was 
a very bigoted Papist." 

8 [This story seems to have risen out of an inaccurate version 
of what is told us by Comte de Maistre. " Louis XIV. ecrivit 
au Pape, Innocent XII., le 14 Septembre, 1693 . . . ' J'ai donne 
les ordres necessaires afin que les affaires contenues dans mon 
edit du 2 Mars, 1682, & quoi les conjectures d'alors m'avaieut 
oblige, n'eussent point de suite.' ... La piece demeura cache'e 
pendant plusieurs annees. Elle ne fut publique en Italic qu'en 
Tan 1732, et ne fut connue, ou plut6t apergue en France que 
. settlement en 1712. . . . Louis XIV. avait bien accorde 
quelque chose & sa conscience et aux prieres d'un Pape mourant 
(Alexandre VIII. J." (Euvres, t. 4, pp. 162-163.] 



and Prince Galitsin. 261 

They were both much in favour of frequent com- 
munion.. They had both spoken of Mr. Law, the 
English chaplain, having no Mass or Liturgy, no Con- 
secration. Mde. Potemkin said, "But you cannot 
think of such a union as should oblige our clergy to 
give the sacraments to all the English here who might 
choose to ask for them, when in general they are so 
ignorant and heterodox ?" " By no means," I replied ; 
"I know well that my countrymen have been 
thoroughly Protestantized." A very frequent question, 
and one they now asked me, is, whether we ask our 
priests and bishops for their blessing, and in what form 
they give it. Prince Galitsin shook hands with me, 
and hoped God would give me success in what I 
desired. 

As we were coming away, M. Eiumine said, " These 
two persons, Mde. Potemkin and Prince Gralitsin are 
both very devout, and are always ready to do good, 
and to represent any case of distress, &c., to the Emperor 
or Empress, whose chief confidants they appear to be. 
The princess was born a Galitsin ; a nephew whom she 
has adopted lives within her house with his preceptor. 
M. Potemkin, is Marshal of the nobility of Petersburg. 
Their house is in the Millionnaia. 

M. Biumine told me that Mde. de P. once, when 
she was a girl, was told by a "Catholic" priest, 
the Catholic Church is the only way of salvation, 



262 Princess Potemkin. 



and that to resist the desire she might feel to belong 
to it might be to sin against the Holy Ghost. The 
thought and the desire to become a Catholic thrilled 
through her, and she felt this unsettling desire for some 
time. She was referred to some of the Greek clergy 
for an answer, and they rather increased than diminished 
her anxiety by bidding her consider the distress or dis- 
pleasure of her parents and friends, the impropriety of 
deserting her own religion, &c. She was ultimately 
brought out of this state by a " Ministre Methodiste," 
who, on her telling him of her misgivings, exclaimed, 
" Quel manque de foi ! " and explained to her the 
Catechism of Spiritual religion, of the natural state of 
the soul, of justification by free grace, of the need of a 
Saviour, of assurance in union of the soul with Him, &c., 
&c. Which, she said, was all quite new, and like a 
ray of light. So she remained three or four years in 
Paris, full of joy, so that they told her that she looked 
as if she had found the Christ, or knew that she was 
saved. She said she liked much some English books, 
such as Doddridge and Baxter ; but her confessor would 
not let her read them, or correspond with that " Metho- 
diste." She still keeps his letters, but confesses there is, 
a good deal of pride in those writers, " and even," she 
said, " of heresy, in saying that those who are once in a 
state of grace can never fall away." But the English 
books have a most attractive fervour. 



CHAPTER LI. 
Third Discussion with the A rchpriest. 

/^VCTOBEK 17th [o.s.]. With the Archpriest from 
^^ 10.30 a.m. to 4 p.m. He has now read Ber- 
tram's book on the Eucharist, but cannot at all accept 
it, though there are some good things in it. " Spiritual- 
iter" might be said, but " spirituale corpus" by no 
means, because then our Lord would have two bodies. 
He interpreted away both the passages from St. Augus- 
tine and St. Chrysostom, and all the rest I read from 
Bishop Cosin. He declaimed against scholastic subtle- 
ties, but thus far, (i.e. in the use of substance and 
accidents), he followed Kome, as a matter of common 
sense, though he could not follow her entirely and 
admit the destruction l of the natural substance and the 
adduction of Christ's Body. 

While admitting, after some discussion, the distinction 

between essentials and non-essentials, he by no means 

admitted that it was a duty to communicate with all 

Churches which agree in essentials. The discussion 

1 [Ficfcp. 281, note.] 



264 Third Discussion 



ran up into the question, whether, in consequence of 
the Western Church having fallen away into heresy, 
the Eastern is now the whole Catholic or Ecumenical 
Church. I said, " If you would not pretend to be the 
whole Church, and claim the unreserved obedience due 
only to the whole Church, while with your own lips 
you refute your own assumption, and proclaim your 
Church to be only the Eastern, and call the Western 
half by the name ' Catholic,' if you would not 
do this, nor confound non-essentials with essentials, 
you might and would obtain great influence with 

us." 



After expostulating against their suicidal inconsis- 
tency, I spoke of the Papists, and continued, " As for 
charity and zeal, only compare the heroic or angelic 
charity and zeal with which their missionaries labour to 
support and extend what may well seem, in default of 
any other claim, to be the only dear definition of visible 
Catholic unity, with the miserable inaction both of the 
Greek and of the English Churches. I know that the 
Koman unity is a pseudo-Catholicism; but all those 
beautiful and high and holy feelings which belong to 
the true unity are now called out in its behalf, because 
the true Catholicism is nowhere else known or seen." 
He said, " It ought to be sufficiently known, for the 
claim of the Eastern Church to be the whole Catholic 
Church, and her call upon all other Churches and sects 



with the Archpriest. 265 

to come to her as such, has been repeatedly published 
by her writers." 

" But," I said, " you do nothing worthy of that claim. 
Would a colony of 3000 English heretics have remained 
one, two, or three hundred years in France or in 
Italy, in Paris or in Rome, as they have here, without, 
any one of them (so far as I know) having ever been 
so much as spoken to with a view to his conversion 1 
Pretty work the Jesuits would make among your ex- 
clusively Capholic-Orthodox Oriental Churches, if only 
they were let loose upon you, unhindered by the secular 
power ! Do you think they would not convert any of 
your women and youths ; and grown men, and priests 
and monks too, if there were perfect liberty, such as 
now exists in England and in America 1 " He replied : 
" Their zeal is bad; such zeal is always a sign of error. 
Also our Russian history shows that we can both main- 
tain ourselves and convert others. For we have in fact 
converted many peoples, and we have withstood Rome 
in a terrible and often bloody conflict during so many 
centuries." 

Other subjects followed. In the course of this long- 
conversation, the Archpriest said : " It must be confessed 
that according to what I have heard from you and have 
seen in your Dissertation, there is but a very slight 
difference between the Anglican and the Eastern 
Churches ; and it is a great pity that you have adopted 



266 Third Discussion with the Archpriest. 



those Lutheran errors of rejecting the Invocation of the 
Saints and the Veneration of the Images and of Relics. 
The Communion of Saints is an article of the Creed, 
and you could have no good reason for rejecting the 
festivals of the Saints." "Which " I said, " we have 
not done ; nor do we deny their intercession." " How 
then do you celebrate their festivals, if you do not 
invoke them ? " He seemed to think and to assert that 
both the Invocation of the Saints and the Use and 
Veneration of Images had been in the Church from the 
beginning, and the invocations in the offices of the 
Church, observing that they are contained in the 
Liturgy of St. James. Of the images he said : " Your 
Church had no right to suppress what the whole Church 
had received. The Pope in accepting the Second 
Nicene Council represented the whole West ; and if 
any bishops at that time did not accept it, they were in 
error, like the Arians, and you, in pleading their rebel- 
lious or heretical refractoriness, do so only to defend 
your own present prejudice which, like the other about 
the Invocation of the Saints, you have borrowed from 
the Lutherans." 



CHAPTER LI I. 
Discussion continued' 

"I" SAID, " If we are in error, at least the one true 
* Church would send missionaries to convert us from 
our heresies, and to teach us all that is good." He 
objected, " But the English Government would* not 
allow that." I answered, " We have no Government 
which can prevent it ; we govern ourselves ; nay, the 
tail governs the head. And, as the sovereign people 
is divided on the subject of religion, we have estab- 
lished an unlimited freedom of opinion and of worship." 
"What?" he said, "may a man profess atheism?" 
" Yes," I replied, " and even proclaim it publicly." He 
seemed much astonished. " But," he resumed, " we 
could do no good ; we should only produce endless and 
useless logomachies." "By no means," I said; "all 
parties in England are now leagued against us; you 
might easily correct our errors by reasonable argument 
and proof, and we might perhaps bring you to a truer 
notion both of the unity of the Visible Church and of 



268 Discussion continued. 

the truth on some secondary points." " You are always 
talking," he answered, " of reasonable proof, but there 
can be no union, unless your Church were to conform 
in all things to ours, which alone is the Catholic Church." 
I replied, " The promise of God is not to any part of 
the Church, as such, but to the whole." " And we are 
the whole," he said. However, he smiled, and seemed 
much surprised at my challenging them to send a mis- 
sion to convert us. 

He said, " Though we are unbending concerning the 
Eastern Church, which we believe to be altogether 
right, while all others have fallen away, still we are not 
unreasonable towards those other erring Churches and 
Societies, but think that, wherever there is true baptism 
in the name of the Trinity, there may by Grod's grace 
be good Christians, though the Society itself may be 
heretical. Some societies may be more heretical, some 
less. Rome and the Latin Church has all (Chris- 
tianity), only deformed by one or two heresies. The 
Lutherans have less : they have not the Sacrament of 
the Holy Chrism ; but still they have Baptism, and 
some notion of the Sacraments. The Calvinists have 
still less. Christ is the centre of all ; for belief in Him 
and love of Him is all in all by which the soul regene- 
rated in baptism grows in life, and attains a more and 
more perfect state, or repairs by penitence what it may 
have lost by sin. So if there are, as there have been 



Discussion continued. 269 

many, who, under difficulty and disadvantage, having 
been regenerated in baptism, have cultivated this inner 
life, not dwelling wilfully or maliciously on the errors 
of their society, nor making them their own, such men 
are Christians indeed, and we may cultivate a fraternal 
charity with them in consciousness of our inner invisible 
unity ; though we must each remain outwardly sepa- 
rated ; we, because we cannot give up even the non- 
essential perfections of the true Visible Church, they 
because, from whatever cause, they cannot see the 
necessity of submitting to and being outwardly 
reconciled to the true, that is to the Eastern 
Church." 

I said, " With a certain economy, and in a transcen- 
dental sense, such a view of the Church may be true 
enough ; but it is a dangerous doctrine to popularize, 
as it may lead those who are in error to underrate the 
importance of Orthodoxy and of conformity to the 
whole will of God, and to encourage liberalism and 
indifference to religious truth, under the name of Charity, 
within the Church herself." "How so?" he asked. 
" When it is evident that Churches and societies excom- 
municated by the Orthodox Church have erred in such 
various degrees, and that so many men have attained in 
them so high a degree of divine grace, when the grace 
of the Holy Spirit has so shone iii their lives and deeds 
and writings ; how can we do otherwise than acknow- 



2/o Discussion continued. 

ledge them for Christians I 1 For my part I cannot think 
of such men as Thomas a Kempis among the Latins, or 
Arendt among the Lutherans, in whose writings I find 
the love of Christ and a glowing piety, as heretics to 
be consigned to perdition. I shrink from the very 
notion of a man in the Church, perhaps barely, coldly, 
intellectually orthodox, judging such Christians, whose 
regeneration and spiritual life is so evident." 

I said, " Amabilis sane sententia, sed perniciosissima 
doctrina. It is only an overpowering sense of the falsity 
of your definition of the true Church that forces you to 
this. But there are not in general, that is, (if we set 
aside the Latins) very high, or striking, or numerous 
examples of sanctity in Churches really heretical." 

He said, " The fact is that some err more, some less, 
and the grace of God seems to work in all according to 
that truth which they have retained, and according to 
the dispositions of each individual to seek and love 
God. It seems to me like a great sphere revolving 
round the sun. All the different Churches and sects 
are attracted to the same centre and revolve round the 
same centre, but at different distances, that Church 
which is simply True, Orthodox, and Capholic, that is, 
the Eastern, being the nearest, and being joined to it by 
a more close and legitimate connexion : but of the rest 

1 [The Archpriest must be understood to be maintaining what 
Catholics hold about " invincible ignorance."] 



Disctission continued. 271 

some are farther off, some nearer, without there being 
any distinct separation or difference in kind. And since 
it is not that formal Orthodoxy of dogmatic opinion or 
of rite distinguishing the Orthodox Church from all 
others, but that principle of faith and love, that attrac- 
tion to its centre, common to it with all the rest, which 
constitutes essential Christianity, hence, though it can 
never fraternize outwardly with any of them, yet in- 
wardly there is no definite line of demarcation, but 
some who are without the pale may be better Christians 
than many of those who are within ; the only difference 
being that they attain eminent sanctity with a certain 
herculean labour, and in spite of great obstacles, while 
in the true Church they have great facilities." 

I said, "That this principle could scarcely stop where 
he seemed to make it stop ; but it must go on to the ex- 
treme boundaries of a merely nominal Christianity, and 
thence on to Judaism, and to all other religions or even 
states without known religion, among the heathen." 
He said, " I resume the distinction of Baptism." 



CHAPTER LIII. 
Conversations with diverse Priests and Laymen. 

T. 18 [o.s.]. Saw the Protopope Sidonsky, who 
said that he quite agreed with me that Churches 
ought to require from one another, in order to intercom- 
munion, nothing beyond agreement in essentials, and 
then should correct faults in each other, e.g. by confer- 
ences, Synods, &c. He asked with some curiosity, why 
I made such a point of visible unity, seeing that the 
invisible ideal unity is intelligible to the educated, 
while in all confessions the masses believe without 
doubt, I said, " Yes, but truth is of the utmost 
moment." He said, " I do not see any great scandal or 
harm in the existing divisions, and unity depends now 
more on political considerations and on civil govern- 
ment than on anything else." 

Oct. 19 [o.s.]. Saw the Protopope Pafsky. He 
said, " Koutnevich is pleased with his conversations 
with you. He does not see any difference worth men- 
tioning between the doctrine of your Dissertation and 



Conversations with diverse Priests & Lay men. 273 

that of our own Church. But I should like to know 
how far the English agree with you, and you with the 
doctrines of your Church." I replied, " I believe I do ; 
but, as to popular opinion, that is quite another thing ; 
that has been completely Protestantized." He would 
hardly allow that it is their doctrine, esoteric or exoteric, 
that the Latin Church is strictly heretical, nor, as it 
seemed, would Sidonsky. He also said, " We make no 
kind of distinction between the Raskolniks at home 
and members of a foreign Church. We require both 
the one and the other to be reconciled as proselytes, 
and conform to our doctrines and customs in all things." 

Oct. 20 [o.s.]. Another visit to M. Sidonsky. I 
said, " Practically you must distinguish between essen- 
tials and non-essentials; you have in course of time 
changed what is of primitive usage yourselves." He 
answered, " I admit the distinction, but we at present 
have no notion of making it." 

Took tea with Mr. and Mrs. Birch, and met there 
one or two young Russians. One of these said, " We 
call our Church distinctively Orthodox-Capholic ; and 
we call the Latins Catholiques or Catholics." He first 
denied, and then acknowledged that according to his 
Church all the Latins are heretics on the point of the 
Procession. " But," he said, " practically we think 
that you may be a good Christian in the one Church as 
well as in the other. Our clergy talk still more liberally 



274 Conversations with diverse 

than they think, for fear of appearing narrow 
minded." 

Oct. 22 [o.s.]. Festival of the Icon of our Lady of 
Kazan, for the deliverance of Muscovy from the Poles 
in 1613, when the Komanoff family was called to the 
throne. I dined that day with a family named Kala- 
grieff. Mr. K. said, " So they are going to make a great 
and happy change in England." I answered, "I hope 
so; we greatly need a change a change from popular 
prejudices and abuses, a change of penitence and true re- 
formation ; but the Church herself will not change." Mr. 
K. said, " then you will continue to reject the Saints 
and the Holy Virgin ; by what name is your Church 
called ? For the English all call themselves Protestant, 
Reformed, and what not ! and they are Protestants." 

A Greek general, Gorgolie, said, " If you are Catho- 
lique, you are not orthodox ; we distinguish between 
the Capholic-orthodox and the Catholic Church, which is 
heretical." Mr. Kalagrieff said to me afterwards, smil- 
ing, " The General would not be persuaded that Capholic 
and Catholic are the ,same thing." 

Oct. 23 [o.s.]. Again with M. Sidonsky. He spoke 
to me of M. Fortunatoff, a young priest, with whom he 
had arranged that I should live on the Viborski side of 
the Neva in the outskirts of the city. He is attached 
to a hospital of Marines. He has Vespers, Matins, and 
Liturgy on Sundays only. (The priests are not obliged 



Priests and Laymen . 275 



to say office in private.) He has a wooden cottage of 
one story. The church, which is a separate building, is 
within the gates of the hospital, but is frequented by 
the people who live near, as a parish church. On 
certain days he gives lessons, for two hours at a time, 
in sacred history, the Catechism, and Latin grammar. 

Also I saw M. Raichof sky ; he lectures in the Uni- 
versity on dogmatic theology, as the Emperor's con- 
fessor, M. Bajenoff, on morals. I had called on him about 
a week before this, and had asked him what difference 
he found between my Introduction to the XXXIX. 
Articles and the Russian doctrine ; " Minimam certe et 
levissimam," but he wished to see how I would treat 
the remaining Articles. He said that with them those 
who communicated often need not be required to fast 
every time for a week before. Their Church bids all to 
communicate four times a year, excommunicating those 
who do not communicate once. He seemed to allow 
that attendances at the Church services three times a 
day for a week previously, and confession each time, 
would be necessary for such as communicated oftener 
than once. But he shook his head and said, "We 
have none such." However, in course of conversation 
to-day he said, that among their penitents were some 
who may well be called saints. N.B. A deacon is always 
to be found where there are two or three priests, but by 
no means in all parish churches. 
T 2 



CHAPTER L1V. 
Interview with Count Pratasoff. 

. 25 [o.s.]. Saw Count Pratasoff. He spoke 
of liberalism as existing in some priests of 
Petersburg. One had written a book containing mate- 
rialistic principles, and the old Metropolitan Seraphim 
has more than once uttered a groan of indignation at 
having such a priest in his diocese. 

He asked, "Why do you make such a point of living 
with a Priest ? " I explained (that is, to learn the lan- 
guage). He answered, " Mais ce sera une rude maniere 
d'apprendre ! " 

We talked again about the definition of the Church, 
and the inconsistency of the Russian view. " So that 
you," he said, "can read and appreciate Thomas a 
Kempis and Alfonso de Liguori without any inconsis- 
tency." " Yes," I said ; but he seemed to be staggered 
at the idea of one visible Catholic Church being made 
up of three communions, differing in doctrine and rites, 
and two of them at least condemning and ana- 
thematizing the others. 



Intervieiv with Count Pratasoff. 277 

In proof that they do still make conversions, he 
showed me from his printed reports for 1837, 1838, and 
1839, that they convert yearly about 10,000 Easkolniks, 
and reconcile as many more to the separate rite of the 
United Staroviertsi. And before the return of the 
Uniats in 1839 they recovered from 1000 to 2000 pro- 
selytes from the Latins, some hundreds of Mahometans, 
about 100 Jews, I think, and 100 or 200 Protestants, 
of whom seventy or eighty in Petersburg. In all, since 
1827 above 180,000, and in the last four years above 
85,000, without mentioning the two millions or nearly 
of Uniats who were reconciled all at once in 1839. 1 

" Some of the Uniat dioceses," he said, " had been 
separated only eighty or ninety years, and there had been 
all along a Grecizing party in them, as there may be a 
Catholicizing party among you. And granting the 
bishops had sworn obedience to the Pope, that is the case 
everywhere ; and in a matter of belief an oath is not to 
be urged as in a matter of mere civil obedience ; but, the 
belief on which the oath rested changing, the oath itself 
is made void. And so now they have sworn another 
similar oath of obedience to the Synod, and they preach 
most warmly against the Pope." He said, "I have 
heard of my blaming a lady here for reading heretical 
books : that pleased me. It would be a great thing, if 

1 [Vid. however Fr. Theiner's works, referred to above, pp. 63, 
64 note, illustrative of the Russian method of conversion.] 



278 Interview with 



your chaplains here could be got to enter into such 
views as yours, and to influence their people in the same 
direction." 

He spoke of the book Kamen Vieri, written by 
Stephen Yavorsky against the Protestants, and said that 
it had cost that bishop (Theophylact Lopatinsky), who 
published it after the death of Yavorsky, his life. But 
it is very popular with the Raskolniks. That definition 
of the Church which I objected to would be found in it. 
But he admitted it was too strong. On the Sunday of 
Orthodoxy, the first Sunday in Lent, the bishop in 
each episcopal city, here at Petersburg, often five 
bishops together, in the Kazan Sobor, after the deacon 
has read out a long confession of faith, anathematize 
all heresies some fifteen or twenty in succession, and 
all the clergy sing to each heresy in chorus together, 
"Anathema, anathema, anathema." "A ceremony," 
he said, " which is good enough, but which greatly 
scandalizes all our liberal-minded and civilized Protes- 
tantizing people, both clergy and laity." He said 
laughing, " I will take you to hear Sidonsky sing 
those anathemas." He said, "As soon as the Metro- 
politan of Moscow comes I will let him have the 
Russian translation of your letter to me, and will go 
with you to him myself. And, since your ambassador 
wrote of you in his note as if you wished to change 
your religion and become a member of the Greek 



Count Pratasoff. 279 



Church, I will talk to him when he comes, and also to 
Lady Clanricarde, who has plenty of intelligence." 

Oct. 26, M. Mouravieff said : " Mde. Potemkin is 
the very best acquaintance you could have ; you cannot 
go too much there." He did not at all like the idea of 
my living with a priest, especially with one found 
for me by S. He said, "A. and B. are absolute 
heretics." And after cautioning me against them, he 
said : " As for your new lodging, the fleas and bugs, 
and the other inconveniences and annoyances will soon 
drive you out : you may even, in that suburb out of 
the town, be in some danger ; you will not be able to 
go out at all in the evening. You may have your cloak 
stolen, or be robbed, &c., &c. Also the thing itself 
may cause scandal They will say, 'Who is this 
English deacon, living with the priest of the Hospital ? 
and what is his business ? ' The civil officer (of the 
police) will go to Pratasoff to know what it means : and 
the people here themselves may be scandalized. He 
will have no time to give you, unless he neglects his 
duties. But you can make the experiment, if you please : 
you will not stay there long, I am sure." 



CHAPTER LV. 



The Archpmest's final judgment on the Anglican 
view of the Eucharist. 



nnHE same day I went to the Archpriest with the 
-*- second volume of Dr. Kouth's " Opuscula," with 
the passages in Theodoret as asserting that in the 
Eucharist the natural substances remain : but he set 
them all aside at once ; " If there were a thousand, our 
Lord's words availed to overthrow them. It would need 
time and books to bring together the innumerable pas- 
sages to the contrary. It is an essential article of the 
faith; your doctrine is a terrible heresy." He espe- 
cially attacked the expression " a spiritual body." He 
admitted " spiritualiter mutari." He attacked the last 
sentence quoted by Dr. Kouth> " non idem esse corpus," 
" not the same body ; " and said that it was plainly 
and atrociously heretical. When I pressed him with 
the difficulties that he was creating for himself, he 
did not reply, and seemed embarrassed, but said, 
" Certainly we differ not at all from Rome in believing 
that after consecration there is no more bread, but the 



The A rchpriests final judgment. 281 

natural body of Christ under the bare accidents or 
appearance of bread ; but we differ from Koine in not 
allowing the abolition * of the natural substance of 
bread, for we say the world is full of natural changes of 
one thing into another, and we say that the change in 
the Eucharist is analogous to these. But in this case 
by a special miraculous economy, the accidents re- 
main, that is, the substance is changed without the 
accidents." 

About the changes made and not made in the recent 
publications of the Synod, he said : " You must ask the 
Metropolitan of Moscow ; he knows all about it." He 
did not seem to deny that there were many things in 
the " Orthodox Confession " (of Mogila) which savour 
of Latinism, with which the whole church of Little 
Russia was at that time deeply infected, " and on that 
ground," he said, " it was suspected by us." He said 
also : " We have adopted the word Transubstantiation" 
from the Latins, because, meaning the same thing, it 
expresses it more clearly. And he asked : " How do 
you think it possible that two such great Churches as 
the Eastern and the Roman should have erred in this 



1 [This does not enter into the definition of the Catholic doc- 
trine. Vid. Viva de Eucharist, who observes " conversionem non 
esse mutationem," and <c substantiam panis in rigore non annihilari, 
qoia ilia desitio panis non tendit in nihil, sed in corpus Christi." 
Digs, v.] 



282 The Archpriesf s final judgment. 

matter 1 " And he insisted on certain miraculous ap- 
pearances, as of natural flesh and blood, seen by doubt- 
ing priests, &c., " which showed," he said, that it is 
Christ's natural body, and not " a spiritual body." 



CHAPTER LVL 

Conversations with the Rector of the Academy, 
M. Voitsechovich and Prince Meshchersky. 

nriHE same day I visited the Archimandrite Atha- 
~- nasius, the Eector of the Academy. He had seen 
my "Introduction" to the XXXIX. Articles, and 
wished to see the Articles themselves. I observed that 
the Articles are by no means a general confession of 
faith ; they must be considered with reference to the 
particular controversies to which they refer. He 
pointed to the " Filioque," and after hearing me upon 
it, merely said, " Profundissima et difficillima quaestio." 
He desired me to come often and see him. 

Also, the same day I visited M. Voitsechovich, 
Director of the Chancery of the Ober-Prokuror ; he said, 
" There is something marvellous in the diffused sense 
or instinct of a people." He had just before been 
asking about the state of religious parties in England, 
and had said : " If the feeling of the people becomes 
favourable to the Catholic party in your Church, your 
success will be certain. You should go to Moscow, 



284 Conversations with 



and to Kieffj to see the piety of the Eussian people." 
He knows some places where the whole population 
communicate four times in the year, as the Church re- 
commends, and there are more men than women in the 
churches. "That," he said, " is the secret of O'Connell's 
power in Ireland, that he has the people with him." 
He was pleased to hear of our Library of Translations 
from the Fathers, and of the Library of Anglo-Catholic 
Theology. They have one bishop, Aaron, formerly of 
Archangel, but now living in a monastery at Moscow, 
who translates from the English into Russ. 

At 7 p.m. I went to the Vsenoshni by invitation, the 
house-church of the Potemkins, and afterwards (8.30) 
conversed with Prince Meshchersky,who once was Ober- 
Prokuror. He said that till lately the Russians were 
very ill off, for they were all bred up by foreign Pro- 
testant preceptors and governesses. He himself till the 
age of thirty-five, had been a freethinker, and he was 
regularly trained to be so by his Protestant tutor. As 
the clergy do not mix with society, young people pick 
up just those notions of religion which float in worldly 
fashionable society, and those are either Protestant or 
"Catholic." Mde. P. said that when she was a child 
she was not taught any catechism. She could never 
bring herself to say, like her friends the " Methodists," 
that she was actually saved. Now she is fond of 
reading St. John Climaeus, and she sees that there is a 



the Rector of the Academy and others. 285 

great difference between the irreverent familiarity of 
the Methodists with Christ, and the reverential depth of 
the Scripture and of the old Fathers. As we were 
talking, she said, smiling : " You tell me just what 
our bishops and archimandrites tell me." 

Her young nephew, Boris Galitzin, came in to bid 
his aunt good-night and to receive her blessing ; he 
kissed her hand, and she kissed his forehead, and 
signed over him the sign of the cross. 



CHAPTER LVIL 
Mr. Palmer moves to the Priest Fortunatoff's. 

"TV /rONDAY, Oct. 28 [o.s.]. In the afternoon I 
-^ removed to the house of a young priest, 
Fortunatoff, No. 10 in the suburbs in the Offitserskaia, 
on the Yiborg side, across the Neva. I found him 
through Count P., and was to live with him on pension. 
The house is some little distance from the Marine Hos- 
pital, and its Church of the Ascension, founded 1769 
1772. The houses in that street, or rather road, are 
not contiguous to one another. They are mostly of one 
story, as mine is, and wooden, built of trunks of trees, 
each standing in its own yard. The road is flanked 
more by the wooden palings of the yards belonging to 
the houses than by the houses themselves. It has a 
planked way like a trottoir for foot passengers ; one 
enters the yard, and turning to the left goes up some 
wooden steps to an outer platform, and from it into the 
house. The dwelling-rooms, thus raised some feet above 
the road with a cellar under them, and a small kitchen 



Mr. Palmer moves to the Priest Fortunatojfs. 287 

near the entrance, are four ; first a very small one, now 
mine ; then two others, also very small and parallel with 
it, the one next to mine is the priest's, his wife's and a 
child's three years old : the other an old woman's, the 
nurse to a younger child. There is also in the house a 
Finnish girl, in height and make like an Esquimaux, with- 
out shoes or stockings, who is servant of all work ; and 
every morning there comes a rough and stupid marine, 
a Lutheran Finn, who brings water, cuts the birch wood, 
and lights the stoves. Lastly, there is a fair-sized room 
with two windows, which serves for meals and to 
receive company. The Icon which is always in one of 
the corners of each room, is the head of St. John the 
Baptist. This room, which has a close, frowzy smell, 
has a piano in it. And there are some plants, ivy 
especially, in the windows. The furniture is scanty 
and poor in the extreme. From the windows we see 
the empty road, with rare passengers, or carts upon it, 
and, at some distance opposite, the Medical Academy. 

My room is about ten feet square. A long chest, 
between two and three feet high, lengthened out by a 
chair, is the bedstead ; on this is a straw mattress ; one 
very narrow sheet, and a light counterpane ; my carpet 
bag serves for a pillow ; and the scarceness of bedclothes 
is remedied by my wadded cloak. The window is very 
small, double of course, incapable of opening in winter ; 
ventilation by opening the door, and by the stove, 



288 Mr. Palmer moves 

which is heated every other day, and makes the room 
at first much too hot ; fumes often from the charcoal 
causing headache, in consequence of the wood not 
being equally burned before the tube was closed. 

The first night I slept not a wink ; when I confessed 
this to the priest, he said, " I guess what it is ; " and, 
taking a lighted tallow candle, he examined the crevices 
and corners of the room, and found long clusters of the 
vermin wedged in and hanging together like bees in a 
hive. They frizzled and fell into the candle, and almost 
put it out. This clearance is no doubt much, but still 
my nights are bad enough. There is a shallow round 
brass pan set on a chair for washing ; a great bottle of 
water, a drinking-glass, a candlestick, and a small deal 
table at the window ; a second chair, and an old cup- 
board complete the furniture. Cleaning of shoes or 
washing of linen there is here none ; but as I went on 
Saturdays to the English lodging-house, and stayed there 
over Sunday, I used to take my linen there, and get 
my shoes cleaned, if that was needed. 

In the morning, when it is not a fast, the Finnish 
girl used to bring me a tumbler of tea with sugar or 
two, if I called for a second and a piece of bread ; on 
festivals, sweetbread, and there was always raw smoked 
or salted fish, and bread and Dutch cheese the latter 
here a luxury, to be had if called for. We dined all 
together, the priest, his wife, and often a younger sister 



to the Priest Fortunatoff's. 289 

of hers, and myself, at four o'clock. After dinner they 
take a cup of coffee, and sleep for an hour or two^ 
being very early risers, and about 8 p.m. we again have 
a glass, never a cup, of tea. At dinner the priest 
always helped me and himself before his wife and her 
sister ; and when I said that our custom was different, 
he replied, " Then your custom is wrong, and contrary 
to the Bible ; for the man was made first, and then the 
woman." 

The chief articles of food at table were these : soup, 
with which we always began, as in France ; black rye 
bread, white bread also ; red cabbage, slightly salted, cut 
into shreds ; sweetmeats, made of a coarse berry of a 
dull red colour, and of other berries, which they eat 
with meat; meat and game, especially ptarmigans, 
and the largest kind of grouse, the capercailzie, which 
is very abundant ; cakes of millet ; a jelly made of 
potato flour and syrup of cranberries, eaten with sugar 
and milk. The only vegetable, besides the red cabbage 
and potatoes, was small salted cucumbers. On Wednes- 
days and Fridays and other fast days there was neither 
flesh meat, nor milk, butter, cheese, or eggs ; but fish- 
soup and fish, caviare, almond milk, linseed or nut oil, 
mushrooms, and several kinds of the edible toadstools. 
Thin slices of lemon were often put into the tea instead 
of milk on fast days. To drink, there was the water of 
the Neva, not always over clear, and quass, and occa- 

u 



290 Mr. Palmer moves. 

sionally on any special day, a bottle of port wine or of 
porter. Pirogi, a sort of sandwich meat, fish, or sweet- 
meat between two sides of baked pastry and an open 
tartlet, formed a second course. A favourite and most 
agreeable drink was infusion of cranberries sweetened, 
which is also thought to be a specific in cases of inter- 
nal fever. 



CHAPTER LVIII. 
Prince Michael, Madame Potemkiris Cousin^ 

. 30 [o.s.]. I dined by invitation of Madame de 
Potemkin in the Millionnaia. The last time I 
saw her she had been speaking to me of Prince Michael,, 
a cousin of hers, a colonel in the Imperial Guard, tell- 
ing him how she had heard of me from the Emperor.. 
She wished me to meet him, and in consequence 
invited me for this day. I went, and met a large party.. 
Prince Michael sat next to me, and, without addressing 
himself to me, began to speak of the Anglican Church as 
a mere Protestant sect with some asperity and exaggera- 
tion. Then at length he turned to me, and I, after 
hearing him, gave him my view of the case. After 
hearing enough to satisfy him I was in earnest, he told 
me that on Thursday in Holy Week last spring, when 
he had been confessing and preparing for communion, 
he received a letter from his eldest daughter, who has 
been for several years with her mother and two younger 
sisters near G-eneva and in France, announcing that they 
u 2 



292 Prince Michael, 

had been converted from the superstition of the Russian 
Church to the Anglican religion. "At Rome," he 
said, " I know there is pomp and artifice, and learning 
and zeal, and if I had received such a letter from Rome, 
I should not have taken it so much to heart ; hut to 
have them turn Protestants made me very unhappy." 
He said also he should be quite ready to acknowledge 
the Pope himself, if it could be proved that St. Peter 
was ever at Rome. (He said on another occasion, " If a 
union were agreed upon by the Emperor, I would be my- 
self the first man to acknowledge the Pope's supremacy.") 
I said, " The ladies may have been converted at Geneva 
to Calvinistic Methodism, but they are not converted 
to the Anglican Church ; that is nonsense. There may 
be English, and an English clergyman at Geneva, but 
no Church of England at Geneva, nor any bishop hav- 
ing jurisdiction. And even in England itself no priest, 
without his Bishop, has authority to baptize or receive 
proselytes otherwise than according to the law of his 
Church. But there is no public law of our Church, 
certainly, authorizing the reception of proselytes from 
the Orthodox Eastern Church ; else, it would be absurd 
for me to come professing agreement with you in faith 
and wishing to be admitted to communion. But I 
will pledge myself to prove that the ladies have not in 
any valid or canonical way been admitted as members 
of the Anglican Church, and, if I fail, I am ready to 



Madame Potemkin's Cousin. 293 

be converted myself to that Russian Church which 
they have renounced and left." The Prince said he 
would read to me passages of the letters from Geneva : 
that I had given him a ray of hope, and that my own 
credit was quite as much implicated in the matter as 
his interest and feelings. 

As it was Wednesday, the dinner was maigre, but 
there were other dishes on the table, and Mde. Potemkin 
offering me the choice, said, " We have here at table a 
Catholic, and a bigoted one," meaning a Frenchman. 
On this I remarked on the misuse of the word Catholic, 
to which she replied, " But what can I call them ? If 
I had merely said a Frenchman, a Frenchman might be 
a Protestant." Just before dinner she had said that a 
sister of Princess Kurakin had become a Catholic, and 
when I objected to the word, she had seemed to admit 
that it was better not so to use it, and she said she would 
use " Catholic " of the Russian and Eastern Church, 
when she talked to Mde de Barante, the French 
Ambassadress. 



CHAPTER LIX. 
Snow and Ice. 

"1VT OVEMBER 3 [o. s.]. I went out thinking to take 
^ a droshky and cross the Voskresensky bridge ; 
snow was falling fast and filling the air ; the men, 
when I hailed them, only shook their heads and said 
"Let idyot (the ice is coming down)." When I came 
to the bank, the bridge was gone, and the great barges 
which had composed it lay in a string along the bank. 
All the river was covered with floes of ice, snowed over, 
drifting down rapidly, and the police hindered boats 
putting off. From the opposite side, here and there 
boats full of people attempted the passage and were 
seen struggling with iron pointed and hooked poles to 
force their way across towards us. The other bridges, 
lower down, had all disappeared too. Later, however, 
after the Liturgy (after mass) I got across, icicles 
hanging in great abundance from the vessels along the 
bank, and from the oars and rowlocks of our own boat. 
In the afternoon of the same day the river was covered 



Snow and Ice. 295 



all over in three places, and the ice stood. I paid a 
long visit to Prince Michael and dined with him. I 
stayed the night at the English Lodging-House, and 
got back to the Viborg side next day in a boat. 

Nov. 6 [o. s.]. Yesterday morning M. Fortunatoff 
says people had already begun to walk across the !Neva, 
and to-day there are paths of planks laid down on the 
ice across poles. This morning I went out to take a 
look at the river, and did not perceive it to be specially 
cold, still I noticed that my breath froze upon the collar 
of my coat, and that a priest's long beard was incrusted 
with ice. The fine broad river, which two or three 
days before had flowed freely, had disappeared, and in 
its place was a vast wilderness of snow. The surface 
of the ground was not to be seen again for six months, 
and noiseless, rapidly gliding sledges, with little jingling 
bells about the head-gear of the horses, were a pleasing 
substitute, in compensation of the cold, for the jolting 
uncomfortable motion of the droshkies. 



CHAPTER LX. 
History and Training of a Secular Priest. 

"TV /T Y host is by birth from the diocese of Vladimir ; 
-L*-"- his father was a parish priest ; and, having no 
clock, went by the sun in celebrating service in the 
church. He was, from eight years old to fourteen in 
one of the district clerical schools, of which there are in 
that diocese six. Then he was, six years more, in the 
diocesan seminary. The seminaries of Vladimir and of 
Scondal are the largest in all Kussia, containing as many 
as 1000 students each. When he was there only 600 out 
of the 1000 were lodged and boarded within the walls. 
He had an allowance from the clerical education fund, 
as being the son of a priest and poor, of fifty roubles at 
first, out of which he had also to pay for his lodgings 
and his clothes. At that time he was dressed just as 
the son of a peasant, and wore wrappers round his legs, 
instead of stockings. He said a lad could live on fifty 
roubles a year, but in the very poorest way. Eoth at 
the Seminary and afterwards at the Spiritual Academy 



Training of a Secular Priest. 297 

at Petersburg, he got a little additional money by being 
one of the best singers, and going out occasionally with 
his fellows to sing in private houses and in domestic 
churches. 

Having made good progress at the Seminary, he 
obtained one of those small exhibitions which are given 
to a certain number of the students to enable them to 
complete their course in one of the four academies. 
To Petersburg then he passed when twenty, the usual 
age, and went through the four years' course, passed his 
examination, not with any special distinction, but with 
credit, married, and was ordained, about three years 
ago, without any private resources. Nor did he get 
anything with his wife, whose mother, younger sister, 
and brother (a student) live all together in a single 
room not far off. When he was drafted from the semi- 
nary to the academy he had an allowance of seventy- 
five, and later of eighty-nine roubles a year (225 francs 
or 9Z.) 1 which last is the highest allowance, and then he 
lived well. The deacon attached to the church of the 
Hospital has not had a learned education, and, like 
many others, will never rise above his present Order. 

F. is a thorough Kussian, quite ignorant of every- 
thing foreign, good-natured, open, talkative, simple- 
minded ; by no means wanting in intelligence, quite 

1 [Ninety roubles calculated at par and average rates of 
exchange are respectively 142. 5*. and 12Z. Vid. Murray, p. 62.] 



298 A Secular Priest. 

free from liberalism and from any sort of private views. 
He plays on the piano ; speaks Latin, and with a little 
more practice, will soon speak it fluently, and is begin- 
ning to learn German. 



CHAPTER LXL 
Course of Studies in the Spiritual Academy. 

r I 1HE division in time at the Academy, and the 
-^ seasons of vacation, are much the same as in 
Western seminaries. 

The professors generally read their lectures ; hitherto 
in Latin ; but now they are beginning to use Russ. 
Most of the progress, however, that is made, is made 
by private work. All know Latin : few, comparatively, 
Greek. Hebrew, German, French, and English are 
voluntary. Fortunatoff does not think there is one who 
could translate accurately an English book. Most of 
the students become secular clergy, either professors or 
parish priests, only two or three at every biennial or 
greater examination become monks. When Fortuna- 
toff went out, there were ten places vacant and forty 
students capable of filling them, which accounts for his 
not being a professor. 

Sidonsky was not a Professor, but a Baccalaureus of 
Philosophy at the academy, and read lectures, which 



300 Course of Studies 

he published. In his book he carried his speculations 
too far, and displeased the higher clergy, especially the 
monks, but he has great talents, and he understands 
all the modern German and French philosophers better 
than any other man in Kussia. He was displaced, and 
another appointed. The present Professor, Karp (a 
layman), is more guarded. M. Fortunatoff thinks 
that not all the modern philosophy is bad : Schelling, 
for instance, is admirable, and above Plato and Aris- 
totle. He does not know much about Aristotle's ethics 
or politics ; but he remarked that Aristotle went only 
on experience, while Plato was imaginative, and 
Socrates religious. He thinks that all the modern 
geologists overturn religion, especially by interpreting 
the six days of Creation to be six periods. 

Every two years there is a move, the whole Upper 
section passing their final examination at once, where- 
upon what had been the Lower becomes the Upper, 
and a new Lower is formed by calling fresh recruits 
from the diocesan seminaries in connexion with this 
academy. Those who have passed the final examina- 
tion are classed under the titles of Magistri and Can- 
didatij a classification borrowed from the Civil Univer- 
sity. The Candidati can become Magistri afterwards, 
if they qualify themselves and pass a second examina- 
tion. The number of Magistri varies from fourteen or 
fifteen to thirty. The rest are only Candidati. But 



in the Spiritual Academy. 301 

each class seems to be arranged in order of merit. 
Fortunatoff was the fourth of the Candidati when he 
went out. In the diocesan Seminaries and district 
spiritual schools the scholars are only partially pro- 
vided for or assisted from public sources ; but the 
students in the Academies are all wholly maintained 
by the Synod. And after the final examination all 
those who are classed as Masters and Candidati obtain 
a pension for life, the Masters of 350, the Candidates 
of 250 roubles a year. 

One evening later there came to drink tea with us 
from the academy one of the best students who is to 
pass his final examination next June, and will probably 
be among the Magistri, that is, will take the highest 
honours. In giving me an account of the academy 
he said that there ought to be sixty students in each of 
its two sections, but in fact just now there are only 
forty-nine in the Upper section and fifty-seven in the 
Lower. 

There are professors at the academy in Dogmatic 
Theology, Moral Theology, Polemics, Liturgical Science, 
Ecclesiastical History, Biblical Archaeology, Homiletics, 
Hebrew, and Greek. These are in the Upper section ; 
in the Lower there are lectures in Philosophy, Philology, 
Civil History, Mathematics, German, French, English 
(to only a few of the students), and Holy Scripture. 
Students are at liberty to choose between Mathematics 



302 Studies in the A cademy. 

and Secular History, between German and French, 
though they may learn all, if they please. 

The Curator of the academy is the Ober-Procuror, 
who is charged with the whole material administration, 
the course of study and the instruction being in the 
hands of the Synod. 

Their food and accommodation are good. It is not 
uncommon for the students to damage their health by 
overwork. On Sundays and festivals they are allowed 
to go out after the Liturgy till nine or ten p.m. Thus 
they can visit their friends; but some of them find 
their way to the theatre. 



CHAPTER LXIL 
Visit to the Spiritual Academy. 

A NOTHER evening (Dec. 1 1 o. s.) I went with F. to 
visit some of the students in the academy. The 
building and its court, though within the same precinct 
with the Lavra, is separated within, and one goes from 
the Lavra into the Court of the academy by a narrow 
archway, the door of which is closed and locked at 
a certain' hour of the night. The building of the 
Academy is divided into two sides. One side is for 
the Rector and the Baccalaurei (or assistant-professors). 
The prof ess ws almost always live elsewhere, and come 
only to give their lectures. The baccalaurei are 
appointed from the best of the magistri, according as 
there are vacancies; the professors again appointed 
from the best baccalaurei of some standing, and from 
such as have worked hard. The professors are most of 
them married priests, or even laymen. None who are 
married can live within the academy itself. The 
church or chapel is over the entrance. The students 



304 Visit to the Academy. 

never go to the great church or Sobor in the Lavra 
except on the festival of the saint (St. Alexander Nef- 
sky). They are divided into rooms, each room having 
two tables, and six students at each table. There are 
also two small bookcases, one for each table at the two 
ends of the room. In one of the bookcases I noticed 
Innocentius' Church History, Bingham's Antiquitates 
Ecclesiastics, Hengstenberg's Christology, Hebrew 
Bibles, &c. The students wear no academical or eccle- 
siastical dress either within doors or abroad. Their 
refectory is not lofty ; it has in it two long tables. 
They sup at 8 p.m.; and no strangers are allowed to 
stay within the gates after they go to supper. In one 
room the students showed us their books, and asked 
several questions ; as for instance : " What authority 
do you allow in England to the Septuagint, to the Vul- 
gate, and to the Hebrew texts of the Scriptures respec- 
tively 1 What versions do you value next after those 1 
Was there not one Taylor, Archbishop of London, who 
wrote a book altogether subversive of Christianity? 
Whose disciple was Strauss? In what books is the 
doctrine of the Anglican Church to be found ? " They 
had just been set to write a dissertation on the Anglican 
Church, and so were curious to know whether upon the 
whole it were nearer to Lutheranism or to Popery. 
They supposed, they said, that it was nearer to Luther- 
anism. 



Visit to the Academy. 305 

Many of the best compositions of the students are 
published from time to time, after having been revised 
by the superiors. A number of such dissertations were 
given me at different times, on the following subjects : 
On the relation of the Church to Jesus Christ, its 
Founder (20 pages); On guardian angels appointed 
over cities, kingdoms, provinces, monasteries, and 
churches (20 pages); On the XVIII. Articles of the 
Synod of Bethlehem of A. D. 1672 ; On the intermediate 
state of imperfect happiness and imperfect torment; 
and on the profitableness of prayers and oblations for 
the departed ; especially for those who have died with 
faith and repentance, but with great sins, and without 
having had time for full amendment of life (100 pages) ; 
On the Duchoborts (a sect very similar to the Quakers). 
Besides these compositions of the students, the superiors 
of the academy publish a monthly periodical entitled 
" Christian Reading," consisting partly of sermons and 
other documents ancient and modern, and partly of 
original dissertations. The spiritual censorship also 
of all publications bearing on religion or doctrine is 
chiefly in the hands of the superiors of the Spiritual 
Academy. 

The Diocesan Seminary of the united dioceses of 
Novgorod and Petersburg is in a separate building at 
no great distance from the academy. It contains three 
hundred seminarists. 

x 



CHAPTER LXIIL 
The Princess Sophia Galitsin. 



8 [o.s.]. This being the Festival of 
St. Michael and all Angels, and of all the Rus- 
sian Orders of knighthood, and the name-day of the 
Emperor's brother, Fortunatoff sang the Matins at 
five a.m. and the Liturgy at ten. I went with him to 
the Liturgy, and stood in the sanctuary with the ser- 
vice-book. As the deacon was not there, I now saw 
how the priest celebrates alone, when he has to take 
the deacon's part. The duty of reader and clerk was 
performed by some marines from the Hospital in their 
ordinary dress. 

Nov. 9. [o.s.]. Saw the Archpriest, who said, "The 
opinions printed in the Index of this book " (Dr. Routh's 
Opuscula) on the subject of Transubstantiation, " I can 
scarcely read for horror." However, at length he began 
to acknowledge that Mark of Ephesus, who had used 
the other terms, had refused transubstantiation, and that 
Theophanes Procopovich, in his Theology, shows hie 



The Princess Sophia Galitsin. 307 

dislike of it. He told me a story of a miracle of St. 
Metrophanes, how the saint appeared in a dream to a 
young man who was living a bad life, and thereby con- 
verted him. 

The same day I dined with the Princess Sophia 
Galitsin and her brother-in-law. She lamented that 
they have so few opportunities of getting religious advice 
and instruction by conversing with their clergy, especi- 
ally as they never mix with them in society. " No 
doubt," she said, " our custom of going to confession is 
very well ; but then that is only once a year, and the 
intervals are long in which we are left quite to ourselves. 
Our upper classes are not very religious. The services 
of the church are extremely fatiguing, and we under- 
stand but little of them, especially of the Vespers and 
the Matins; and scarcely anybody (of the higher classes) 
ever goes to the Matins. They are very long and you 
must stand the whole time. We are more at home in 
the Liturgy, and can follow it better." I said, " If any 
one would only buy the church books, and follow the 
services in them, they would soon understand them 
better." She misunderstood me, and said : " It would 
never do to be seen with a book in one's hand in the 
church : that would seem to be an irreverence." " No," 
I said, " that is not what I meant : I meant that you 
should read the church books for a quarter of an hour 
or so every day at home, and then you would soon be 
x 2 



308 The Princess Sophia Galitsin. 

more au fait in the church." " That," she said, " is 
what some of the old people do ; and so they are able 
to stand out all the services without finding them 
wearisome, which we cannot." She said: "The clergy 
have by no means all left off their bad low habit of 
drinking." 

November 10 [o.s.]. Met again at the house of M. 
Biumine, the same Mdlle. N. who had attacked me 
so sharply once before. This time we were quite 
friends. She said she delighted in reading the works 
of St. Francis de Sales and Fenelon, and was un- 
willing to admit that her Church imputes to the 
Latin Church absolute heresy. She said, with pro- 
digious emphasis, " Quant a Luther et Calvin, je 
les deteste." They praised much a Bishop named 
Tichon, who died at the end of last century. " His 
works," said M. Kiumine, "are almost our only model 
of practical piety." 



CHAPTER LXIV. 

The two Archimandrites and a Priest of the 
Academy. 

"VTOYEMBER llth[o.s.]. Visited the Archiman- 
^ ^ drite Palladius in the Nefsky Laura; he is Vicar 
tinder the Metropolitan. Also the Eector Athanasius, 
who, when I stated my definition of the Church, includ- 
ing and acknowledging in their legitimate dioceses 
the continental Latins, the Easterns, and the Anglicans 
also, remarked, "That must imply a kind of indif- 
ference." 

Presently there came in a priest of the Academy, not 
a monk, who had heard of me from his relative M. 
Malloff. He instructed the fiancee of the Grand Duke 
Alexander, the heir apparent, and received for that 
service a handsome sum of money and a gold cross. 
He is chaplain at Stuttgart, and spoke French fluently, 
and can read English. He seemed interested to hear 
that I had brought out some English books to present 
to the Academy, and said, " We are in the habit of 
reading Lutheran German books, but not English." 



310 A Priest 



He imagined the Anglican Church to differ irreconcil- 
ably from the Greek and the Russian, and to be nearly 
the same as the Lutheran. He misused the word 
" Catholic " like the rest of them, and, when I would 
have corrected him, he smiled and excused himself on 
the ground of an inveterate habit. " But," he said, 
"that Latin word " (but it is a Greek word) " is nothing 
to us. Our Church and people are Orthodox and 
Capholic. 1 That is our word and pronunciation ; but 
Catholic is by its very sound something not Orthodox 
and not Capholic" After hearing my explanations, he 
asked : "Is there not, then, in truth and fact a very 
great difference between your Church and ours V I 
replied : " Unquestionably in externals, and in popular 
opinion and practice, there is an enormous difference ; 
but I do not know that there is any great difference in 
formal doctrine. In essential doctrines and faith I must 
believe that there is no difference." 

With respect to the great point of the Procession I 
repeated the substance of what Bishop Pearson says. 
But he at once replied : " We think that the Greek 
Fathers, before the controversy arose, allowed themselves 
to speak in a looser and freer way than they would 

1 [What does the word " Capholic " mean in the mouths 
whether of clergy or laity ? Ought we all to be Capholics ? 
If so, how can the word designate the Russian Church ? if not, 
how does it answer to the word " Catholic " in the Creed ?] 



of the A cademy. 311 

have spoken in, after the point had been questioned, 
discussed, and settled." I said, " That is disrespectful 
to the Greek Fathers, and sounds like an admission 
that they differ less from the Eoman doctrine than 
you do. I should not have been surprised to hear a 
Romanist treat the Fathers in that way." He also 
denied that the older Latin Fathers ever taught the 
procession from the Son, saying that all those passages 
had been interpolated since. He asked what I thought 
of their Mass ? "Do you not find it," he asked, " very 
like that of the Catholiques 1 " 



CHAPTER LXV. 
M. Fortunatoff's Deliverances. 

"1\ /T Y host speaks with horror of the German custom 
-L-*-*- of eating blood, black-pudding, &c., whereas 
they observe still the canon of the Apostles, requiring 
us to abstain from things strangled, and from blood. 
For this reason, all their fowls are killed by cutting 
off their heads : and a difficulty arose, not long ago, 
about some who had become Christians, as they had 
lived before chiefly on game caught in nooses, and 
found them dead. 

Also he says that, in the University, the Pro- 
fessors and Students are all free-thinkers. Many 
of them are German Lutherans ; and still more 
Lutheranize, or Germanize. "Also the physicians and 
medical Professors and students are all free-thinkers, 
all," he said, 1 " to a man." Hence a priest who has to 
lecture on religion among them, is subjected to many 

1 [These sweeping generalizations must always be accepted 
with allowance.] 



M. Fortunatoff's Deliverances. 3 1 3 

annoyances, questions, and difficulties. The Gymnasia 
and the University are for Law, Medicine, and Philo- 
sophy (Arts), what the diocesan district schools and 
seminaries, and the Spiritual Academies are for Theo- 
logy. For the soldiers and sailors there are the Corps 
of Cadets, military and naval, and the Page Corps, and 
the Superior Military Academy ; and for the medical 
students there is the Medical Academy, which we see 
from our windows. This has three hundred students. 
He would not believe that in England the medical men 
are anything else than free-thinkers : he supposed that 
they were free-thinkers all over the world ; and he 
quoted from the Psalms, laughing, these words : " Shall 
the dead praise Thee, Lord, or shall the physicians rise 
up to confess to Thee ? " " Here, in Eussia, at any rate, 
they are all unbelievers, and never communicate in all 
their lives." I said : " I thought whoever passed 
three whole years without communicating, was formally 
excommunicated, and fell under civil penalties 1 " "It 
ought to be so," he said, " but it is not so for the 
doctors ; the doctors are never punished. Ah ! Pessimi 
suntf" (with emphasis). The priest of the Medical 
Academy here has so bad an opinion of them all that 
when one, not long ago, proposed to marry his 
daughter, he broke out into an absolute passion. 
However, on Sunday, F. told me he had been called 
to visit a doctor who was dying, and had gone with a 



3H M. Fortunatojf s 

very faint hope of converting him ; but to his surprise, 
the man readily made his confession, and seemingly 
with sincere contrition, and so died shortly afterwards. 

Speaking of morals and of liberalism, he said : 
" The nobles are nearly all bad. In Petersburg 
scarcely any of the laity of the higher classes keep the 
Fasts, but in Moscow, very many do ; in the country 
towns nearly all, and in the villages quite all. The 
higher classes think it fine to be like the Germans and 
the French. It is the custom for the priests to go 
round at Christmas to the houses of their parishioners, 
to glorify Christ's Nativity. This they do still to the 
merchants and citizens here, but scarcely ever to the 
Kniazes and Grafs (Princes and Counts)." 

He once said : "If there is any character which 
it delights the peasants and merchants to see held up 
to ridicule, as in a comedy, or in light literature or 
stories, it is that of the Frenchified or Germanized 
Russian nobles, who, they say, are not Russians." And 
he himself acted to the life the contrary behaviour of 
the peasants and these nobles on entering the church. 
" Truly," he said, of the latter, " they are like you. 
They are quite against all ceremonies, as superstitious ; 
they respect neither the Saints nor their Icons. It 
would be a good thing for them to be a little more on 
their knees, and to bump their heads a little against 
the pavement like the mujiks" 



Deliverances. 3 1 5 



" Our vast army," he observed, " may, or may not 
be necessary, a priest is no judge of that. But, 
assuredly, it is a terribly bad thing for the morals and 
the religion both, of the lower classes ; and a great 
hindrance to that development of the internal resources 
and population of Russia, which our Government has 
so much at heart." 

I find the people here have a superstition about 
meeting a priest in the street ; still worse a monk. 
Even ladies of rank, if in stepping from the house- 
door to their carriage they see a priest or a monk, 
will rush back again and send the carriage away, at 
the same time they spit, and drop a pin. Of course I 
am not speaking of really educated people. 

Also, I find it is the common belief that the lights 
in the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem light of themselves 
by miracle on Easter Eve, or at least one light from 
which the rest are lighted. When I called it an im- 
posture, the priest said, "You have not been at 
Jerusalem ; ask M. ; he has." 

Once on my saying I did not like the double sense 
of the word boghj which means both Deus and an 
image, as confusing ideas which ought to be kept 
apart, M. Fortunatoff denied the ambiguity, and 
affirmed that it simply meant Deus. I answered, " I 
have heard that it is constantly used of all Icons ; and 
only the other day your little girl, three years old, 



316 M. Fortunatoff's Deliverances. 

turning over the leaves of a book, pointed with her 
finger to the unmeaning wood-cuts at the top of every 
chapter, and said to all alike, ' Bojinka' 'little 
god.'" He replied, "That is only sheer and gross 
stupidity in mujiks (peasants) and women." " If they 
are the offenders," I said, " you must have stupidity 
and ignorance enough among you. You make things 
to be worse than I supposed." "Well," he answered, 
" there is plenty of it among the people." After a 
few minutes, he added, " No Russian thinks the Icons 
to be gods, but peasants and women may sometimes 
speak as though they were through stupidity." 



CHAPTER LXVL 
His Deliverances continued. 

A T another time he said : "Count Pratasoff has been 
^7- Ober-Prokuror now for about four years. Before 
that, I only know of him that he was one of the Em- 
peror's suite, As for Prince Alexander, who held that 
office in the last reign, it could scarcely be said of him 
that he held any particular creed. The Ober-Prokuror 
has no vote in the Synod, but yet, what is strange," 
he added, laughing, " he has very great influence. 

"As to the definition of the visible Church," he 
said, " it depends upon the sense that one attaches to 
the word heresy. "We think the Latins to be secundum 
quid heretics, but not in relation to Luther and Calvin. 
As we think the Latin Church to agree almost entirely 
with us, we have never been disposed to recognize any 
other Churches or Societies in the West, as competing 
with it, but we recognize only the Latin. Yet in one 
sense they are heretics, though in another they are 
not." I said, " They either are heretics, and out of the 



318 M.Fortunatoff's 

Church, or they are not." " No," he said, " not so. 
Our Church has remained the same, and has preserved 
everything. We certainly answer to the definition of 
the visible Church ; but we have no need to include 
others in that definition which is fulfilled in the 
Greco-Russian communion : she stands alone, and 
self-sufficing. She needs not any others ; and that 
absolute external unity and precise definition, which 
you require, would only do harm, for it would establish 
a sharp line of separation between us, who are within 
the definition and all others, and would destroy that 
tolerance and mutual friendly intercourse, and half 
recognition, which now subsists. I think that external 
differences cannot be avoided, but the essential unity 
of the faith is preserved internally. Other ecclesias- 
tical bodies are not entirely bad ; the Latins are partly 
right ; the Lutherans also." 

I said, "One ought not to confound confessions 
with organized Societies. One should distinguish 
between the Apostolical Churches according to their 
dioceses ; differences in secondary and variable matters 
do not justify them in invading one another and 
setting up a new altar against the original altar. All 
individuals should conform to the customs of the local 
Church in which they happen to be, until they gain 
leave to act otherwise by the local Bishop." 

M. Fortunatoff laughed at the Latin charges of the 
eleven or twelve heresies of the Greeks. "Anyone 



Deliverances. 3 1 9 



may easily see," he said, " how flimsy they are ; they 
all depend on the primary assumption of the Pope's 
absolute authority and infallibility. When I was a 
student in the Academy," he said, " I went several 
times from curiosity to see the Latin rite; and I 
thought their Mass, not only vastly inferior to ours, but 
contemptible, and even ridiculous; a congregation 
sitting or squatting on chairs with their faces in 
books, an organ at work, priests gesticulating in dumb 
show, and such a theatrical air about it all. I saw the 
Bishop sitting on one side of the sanctuary not in the 
middle of the Church, and the celebrant retiring from 
him backwards with three reverences; whereas our 
priests merely bow to the Bishop, and turn round and 
proceed to their sacred duty." 

He added, "You, from being neighbours, are still 
half Latins; you excuse the Pope and the Latin 
Church in almost everything." " That certainly is a 
most unjust assertion," I answered. Two days later 
he said, alluding to this conversation, " I often am 
disputing for disputing's sake " (to put the case on both 
sides, I suppose he meant) ; " but in truth I think 
that the Latins scarcely differ by any real difference 
from us ; and those two or three whom I have seen, 
explained away their fire of purgatory, and on all points 
seemed to have a very poor defence of themselves, and 
rather apologized for their variations, and explained 
them in our sense, than proved any point against us." 



CHAPTER LXVIL 
M. Fortunatoff on the Sacraments. 

"1 TE hears confessions chiefly in Lent. A crowd of 
*" people, waiting for their turn, stand together in 
the body of the church, and the Priest, standing on the 
solea, 1 in his epitrachelion, with a disk and light before 
the Icon of Christ, reads the preparation, &c., down to 
the questions, once for all. Then he repeats the Ten 
Commandments, and the people go up, one by one, 
behind a movable screen, set on the solea. The priest 
asks against which of the commandments they have 
sinned ; they confess ; and then he imposes penance, 
and absolves them, laying his epitrachelion, and his 
hand, on their heads. " They ought, no doubt," he 
said, " to particularize, so far as is necessary, to make 
clear the nature and degree of the greater sins ; but 
there may be sometimes a thousand to confess in one 
day, or at least in two or three days, in one week ; and 
it is unavoidable that there should be many bad con- 
fessions." 

[This seems to be the step before the iconostasis leading into 
the sanctuary.] 



M. Fortunatoff on the Sacraments. 321 

He not only owned that lay people cannot com- 
municate often without giving up their worldly busi- 
ness ; but he said that it ought to be so. " If the 
custom in early times was different, this was because 
then the Christians followed no worldly business. 
You cannot serve God and mammon. The outward 
preparation (to fast for a week beforehand, and to 
attend the services of the Church three times daily, 
and to go to Confession), though no doubt it was 
meant to assist the inward preparation, is no more 
than what is necessary. It is not an easy thing to 
prepare one's self properly ; and it is easier to prepare 
well once a year than often or habitually." And he 
cast bitterly in my teeth our contrary Anglican practice 
and profanation of the Sacrament by inviting all who 
will to come and take it without any preparation or 
confession, having eaten a hearty breakfast (as Madame 
Potemkin said of her governess) just before. "A pretty 
improvement it would be in us to follow such an 
example ! No, indeed ; whatever yours may do, our 
Church knows better the reverence due to so great a 
Sacrament." I said, " I think the custom now existing 
among the Latins on this point is better than yours." 
He replied, " Quite the contrary ! Ours shows that 
we have a deeper sense of the greatness of the mystery 
than the Latins have." Mademoiselle N. (who is so 
fond of reading Fenelon and St. Fra^ois de Sales) 

Y 



322 M. Fortunatoff 



said, "Lay people i.e. ladies whose time is their own 
might without difficulty communicate once in six 
weeks if they wished it " (that is, twice in each of 
their four Lents) ; " but oftener than that I think 
would be even prohibited." 

The Countess Anna Orloff, I was told afterwards, lives 
close to a monastery near Novgorod, and communicates 
daily. She is daughter of the Count Alexis Orloff 
Tchesmensky. She emancipated her serfs, and has 
expended half her fortune in restoring and enriching 
the Youvieff monastery, three versts from Novgorod. 
She has a house in the capital, and is a " Dame d'hon- 
neur ;" and any one meeting her would take her to be 
a fashionable lady. But she lives by rule, and receives 
to dinner only on Tuesdays and Saturdays ; and all her 
guests must leave at seven p.m. She never eats meat, 
and communicates often, if not daily. Her director, the 
Archimandrite Photius, is now dead, but she still follows 
the rules he gave her. They spoke also of another 
lady named Tchoutchkoff, now Abbess of a convent, 
founded by her on the battlefield of Borodino, where 
her husband was killed. Her only son, a youth of 
sixteen, dying soon after, she retired into a convent at 
Voronege. She is now in Petersburg, having come to 
be godmother to the Princess of Darmstadt, the fiancee 
of the Hereditary Grand Duke, when she is reconciled 
to the Church and confirmed. 



on the Sacraments. 323 

F. blamed the Latins for not giving the Chrism and 
Holy Communion to baptized infants, saying, " If you 
make the development of the intellect a necessary 
preliminary, you should postpone baptism." 

He said it was a common error to regard the 
anointing of the sick as a preparation for death 
(viaticum) ; the primary purpose of it being to obtain 
healing of the body, which often occurred, to his 
knowledge. The vulgar error, which exists in Russia,, 
has arisen from the mistake, from the sound of the 
soborovatsia, from sobor, " an assembly of priests " for 
sberatsia, "to prepare for a journey." St. James says, 
"Let him send for the elders of the Church;" and in 
the Russian Church the sick man sends for seven 
priests, if they can be had, though one will suffice. 
" Last year," said Mr. F., " I with six others adminis- 
tered soborovanie, that is, united prayer with unction, 
to the priest of the Samson Church, and, after he had 
been given over by the doctors, he recovered." 

In the old times, before Peter the Great and the 
Synod, mixed marriages were not allowed in Russia. 
There are seven degrees of consanguinity or affinity, 
within which marriage is forbidden j so second cousins 
cannot marry, nor can one marry the child of one's 
second cousin ; third cousins may marry. The cele- 
bration of a wedding is called the crowning of a couple, 
from the crowns which are used in it. There is a 
Y 2 



324 On the Sacraments. 

slight penance for a second marriage ; far more for a 
third ; a fourth is forbidden altogether. If a man is 
banished to Siberia for life, his wife after three years 
may marry again. 

They have not the four seasons for Ordinations, nor 
do they ordain a number of Priests and Deacons at 
once, but only one Deacon or Priest in one Liturgy. 

That there are seven Sacraments or Mysteries is a point 
of faith ; whereas we in England seem to recognize only 
two. " Your difficulty is only verbal," he said, " since 
you admit all the seven. The Church does what suits 
her communion, and she cannot go back or turn aside 
to quibble about words." He had at first contended 
that the Septenary number was from the beginning ; at 
length he admitted that perhaps they had received it 
in later times from the Latins. " I see what you 
mean," he said ; " they existed and we had them from 
the beginning, and at length the Pope counted them 
for us. Well, that is no great matter, we may admit 
that." 



CHAPTER LXVII1. 
M. Fortunaloff on the ChurcKs Development. 

" ~FN one point of view," F. said, "that Babylonian 
Eef ormation of the Lutherans and the Calvinists 
may facilitate the restoration of unity. For certainly, 
it makes both the Greeks and the Latins to feel a sort 
of common unity by contrast. But how can there be 
any union with you, when I see such great differences 
between us 1 besides that greatest one of all, that of 
the Procession, you reject the Intercession of the 
Saints and their Invocation, and the Relics, and the 
Icons. Now, to speak only of the Relics : they are 
our most unanswerable argument, the only argument 
which seems to be felt, against the sceptical objections 
of all the medical men here. We are far from having 
a process of canonization like that of the Pope. God 
Himself alone reveals sanctity in our Church, and 
Relics are always found by revelation, and attested by 
incorruption and other signs of sanctity (miracles of 
healing, apparitions, &c.). The Relics thus found 



326 M. Fortunatoff 



have often been those of persons quite unknown, and 
the places of whose burial were equally unknown. 
And then the police, the authorities, secular as well 
as spiritual on the spot, besides the Synod here, make 
a very strict examination. And can we yield to you 
then that the Relics are unnecessary, and to be re- 
jected 1 Again, suppose even that you admit (as you 
say you do) the intercession of the Saints and their 
Invocation, this is necessarily connected with the out- 
ward veneration of their Icons, by which they become 
as it were present ; and the one thing can scarcely 
exist without the other." 

I objected that in point of fact the Invocations were 
common a century or two before the outward venera- 
tion of Icons was established. And even now the 
Nestorians, who have been separated for fourteen 
centuries, have Invocations of Saints, though they have 
never received Icons. To this, he replied, that even if 
it be so, still the necessary developments and perfec- 
tion often come long after the principle which involved 
them. 

In the same way, in alluding to some similar speech 
of a Kussian priest, Mr. Blackmore had said to me : 
" These Greeks and Russians seem to think Chris- 
tianity to be like a great plant, which was not pro- 
duced at once perfect, but only came gradually to its 
full growth, which it attained at the time of the seventh 



on the Church's Development. 327 

Council." And M. Mouravieff once said, as if making 
an admission : "I feel that this tells in favour of the 
Latins, that they claim so boldly to carry on the idea 
and the exercise of ecumenical authority, and can point 
to a succession of what they call General Councils, not 
stopping short, as we do, with seven, but continuing 
them almost down to our times, or at least to the Council 
of Trent, where they seem at last to have stopped." 

On the other hand, the old metropolitan of Peters- 
burg, Seraphim, in condemning the Latin doctrine 
of the " Filioque " as contrary to the original and 
ecumenical tradition, and based merely upon human 
reasonings, used to utter this maxim : " Our Church, 
knows no developments." * 

The truth is, that commonly, the more rigid and the 
more ignorant assert at first that everything, small and 
great, is of equal necessity, and equally derived by unin- 
terrupted tradition from the very beginning; Invoca- 
tions, Icons, the law of auricular confession before Easter, 
and even the doctrine of the Sacraments being seven, 
are all to be found in all the Fathers, and were all taught 
and delivered by the Apostles. When driven out of 
this assertion, they fall back on the idea of growth or 
development, still maintaining as before the necessity 
of everything, whether ancient or modern. On the 

1 [Was it the residence of De Maistre in Petersburg which 
led to the discussion of this subject ?] 



328 On the Church's Development. 



other hand, the more learned and spiritual, who are 
well aware that many parts of the existing system are not 
of Apostolic Antiquity, make a distinction between the 
original tradition and all subsequent growth or develop- 
ment. " The whole faith," they say, " complete and en- 
tire, is plainly read in the Scriptures, and plainly handed 
down by the Church from the beginning, and admits of 
no other change or increase but that which may be 
made by the condemnation and denial of new errors. 
But, besides this substance of the faith itself, there are 
also many other things, some of Apostolic tradition, and 
others of subsequent growth or institution, which are 
of very great importance, and which cannot be dispensed 
with by the Church, without indirectly endangering 
good morals and even the faith itself, to say nothing of 
her own authority and existence." 

He said : " Discussions between individuals under 
authority are of little use : the Churches themselves 
should confer together and make mutual explanations. 
But it might be well if in the first instance some com- 
petent persons on both sides would examine accurately 
and discuss in writing those points which seem the 
most difficult, and on which the apparent difference is 
greatest." 



CHAPTER LXIX. 
The Potemkins Fasts and CJmrch Services. 

V. 15 [o.s.]. I dined in the Millionnaia [with 
the Potemkins], it being the first day of the 
Fast. There are no dispensations, such as are common 
among the Latins ; only in cases of necessity people 
dispense themselves, for instance, women nursing their 
infants, children, too, under seven. And after that age 
very few young people of the higher classes fast till they 
are grown up. And now the higher classes here are 
so Protestantized, that very few of them observe the 
fasts at all, at least in Petersburg, where they are 
mixed up with 70,000 Germans. Some, indeed many, 
may keep the first week and the last in Lent. The 
poor all keep the whole of each fast most religiously, 
and they do not eat fish, nor do they get potatoes. 
The number of guests, frequenting the sort of open 
table kept by the Potemkins, will now fall off, as there 
is scarcely anything served but fast fare. 

They spoke of the Church Services as being certainly 



33O Fasts and 



far too long, fit only for the monasteries, from whence 
they were taken, and as causing great embarrassment 
and irreverence. For on the one hand, vast numbers 
of the common people have a superstitious horror of 
any abridgment, so that it might be even dangerous to 
make any change by authority; and on the other 
hand, it would often be physically impossible for priest 
or people, living in the world, to perform or attend 
them, if they were celebrated in a becoming manner 
at full length. Besides, the civilized and worldly 
people in the towns, who are increasing in numbers, 
are as much repelled by the length of the services as 
the merchants and peasants are pleased with it. The 
result has been that a general system has been esta- 
blished of reading the appointed Tcathisms of the 
Psalter, and the Hours, and the greater part of the 
kanons and some other parts of the services, with the 
utmost rapidity possible. Everybody complains of this 
irreverence, and is ashamed of it ; and even canons have 
been made at different times to correct it : but all to 
no purpose. And notwithstanding all that is done 
by singing rapidly instead of slowly, singing only once 
instead of several times, substituting reading for sing- 
ing, and omitting all readings from the Synaxaria, 
Homilies, and sermons, &c., it is still necessary for all 
those priests, readers, and singers, who officiate in 
churches frequented by the higher classes, to make 



Church Services. 331 

many actual omissions at their own discretion, in 
order to bring the services within the compass, either 
of their people's patience or their own physical power. 
Thus, for example, it is the rule to read through 
the whole four Gospels in the Church during the 
Koyal Hours, on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednes- 
day of the Great Week. But M. Fortunatoff being 
the only priest attached to the Hospital of Marines, 
reads on those days only one Gospel each year. Again, 
he will often during Lent omit the Nocturn and begin 
at once with the Matins at the early service. And in 
truth, even when there are several priests, it is won- 
derful how they are able to go through the services 
as they do, during Lent. Not only the early service 
at 4 a.m. lasting three hours, but the Hours and 
Vespers (with the Liturgy after the Vespers on 
certain days) before they touch any food. And then, 
when they do eat, about one or two o'clock p.m., they 
must not eat anything that comes of flesh : neither 
eggs, nor milk, nor cheese, nor butter ; nor even fish. 
It is true indeed, that at Petersburg fish is generally 
eaten by the parochial clergy in Lent, except during 
the first week and the last. But this is merely an 
abuse ; and the infringement of the rule does not 
extend beyond the capital. After dinner in the 
evening (in Lent) there is still a third service, the 
Great Compline. And besides all these services the 



332 Fasts and Church Services. 

occasional duty is very heavy at that season. "In 
fact," said my host, " we all get very thin during Lent, 
and the body, no less than the spirit, rejoices on the 
coming of Easter. ' 



CHAPTER LXX. 
Conversation with the Priest Raichofsky. 



, November 17. I went to see the priest 
Raichofsky, and translated to him the conse- 
cration prayer of the Scottish and the American Litur- 
gies. But he asked : " V/hen were those Liturgies 
made ? and by whom ? " He did not like the idea of 
people in later times altering or composing Liturgies. 

As we were speaking of the question of the Pro- 
cession, I said : "It seems to me that there is a certain 
bias in the minds of your clergy which prevents them 
from accepting fairly and fully the expressions and 
the sense of the Fathers." When I had admitted that 
the Greek terminology is that of the old Fathers, and 
had quoted to him Bishop Pearson's statement on this 
point, he objected : " Why, then, do you not leave out 
the clause, and then there would no longer be any dif- 
ference 1 " I said : " We must have some good reason 
for leaving out orthodox words, even though they were 
improperly put in. And even if you asked us to leave 



334 Conversation with the Priest Raichofsky. 



them out, as improperly put in, we could scarcely do 
this so long as you seem to deny or to suspect and dis- 
like the language of your own Greek Fathers. By no 
means all admit so much as you admit, viz. ' through 
the Son ' in the sense of procession as to the substance, 
and not merely interposito Filio, though some seem to 
deny even that." " Ah ! " he said, " the separation 
was not originally nor really made on account of this 
question ; but for other causes for human passions. 
But there would be many and great differences between 
us, even if that could be removed. Here, in your 
XXXIX. Articles, (Article XXII.,) your Church rejects 
Images, Relics, and Invocations, and says that they are 
contrary to Scripture, and vain and futile inventions." 
And he smiled as he quoted the words of the Article. 
I replied : "I do not deny that you may reasonably 
suspect some of our Articles, and demand explanations, 
or if you please supplements and corrections, especially of 
Article XI., about Justification, and of Article XXXI. , 
about the sacrifices of Masses." He said : " I see that in 
your Dissertation there is very little disagreement to be 
discovered on any of these points, but the Articles them- 
selves seem to reject and condemn them all, without any 
reserve or limitation, and even add abusive language." 
" And," he objected, " not all your people interpret your 
Articles as you do." I replied : " Comparatively few, I 
fear. But that does not touch the question which is 



Conversation with the Priest Raichofsky. 335 

the true interpretation of this or that Article. No doubt 
explanations are needed from our Church, and it would 
be a very good thing if we were called upon to make 
them. That might help us much." 



CHAPTER LXX1. 

Church Plate, Books and Vestments Income of 
Priests. 

/~\NE day F. showed ine the ornamented Gospels 
^-^ and the sacred vessels of his Church, which are 
kept in a glazed case in the S.E. corner of the sanctuary, 
outside the handsome columns which surround the 
altar. Close to this case, against the south wall, there 
is a huge chest for the phenolia and other robes, some 
of which, he said, must have cost as much as forty 
pounds. Another day, as we were out walking, we 
asked the price of one of the smallest and plainest 
sets of altar plate, not including any ornamented 
covers for the binding of the Grospel, but only the 
paten or disk, asterisk, chalice, spoon, lance, shell 
for hot water, and cross. The sum named as the 
lowest that would be taken was 350 paper roubles 
(about 15Z.); but he thought that 10Z. would be 
enough. The whole expense of furnishing a new 
church or chapel with what is absolutely necessary 
can scarcely be brought under 75Z. or 100/. ; and then 



Church Plate, 6r., Income of Priests. 337 

it will be very poorly provided. But the vestments 
last ; and from time to time fresh offerings are added. 
If one supposes the building and the fabric of the 
church to be provided, a monastery of the lowest 
class, or hermitage, must have a capital of at least 
700Z. to secure its existence. The church vestments 
being very durable, and accumulating, and having all 
been consecrated, when at last they are wearing out, 
are used at the burials of the clergy, who are always 
buried in the robes of their order. 

It is contrary to public opinion and to good manners, 
and even to distinct canons, for priests' wives to wear 
any gay-coloured clothes, or to make themselves bare, 
or to dance ; and they are always addressed, without 
respect to their age or youth, by the title of Mother 
(Matushka), as the priest by the title of Father 
(Batushka). M. Fortunatoff's wife told me that this 
is not so with the Lutheran Pastors : not only are their 
wives quite free to follow all the fashions of society ; 
but even the Pastors themselves go to the theatre and 
dance. 

F. also told me that there is no such thing 
as a priest marrying a second time (after Ordination). 
If any one did, the Bishop would cut off his hair, and 
secularize him, and he would be made a common sol- 
dier. "I could show you such a soldier." I said, 
" With us they can marry a second wife." " That," he 

z 



338 Church Plate, &c. 



answered, "is far better ; the evil of our rule is felt." 
When a priest dies, his widow and family are saved 
from destitution thus : If there is a son old enough, or 
nearly old enough, he succeeds to his father's place, 
and helps to maintain the widow and her family. Or 
else, some student from the Spiritual Academy, or from 
the diocesan seminary, is found willing to marry a 
daughter of the deceased priest, to whose cure he is soon 
afterwards appointed almost as a matter of course. The 
usual age for a student to enter the Academy being 
twenty, he is twenty-four when the course is completed ; 
and so there is a year's interval, in which he may marry, 
before he is old enough to be ordained deacon and 
priest. The parochial clergy in former times were sup- 
ported entirely from the customary offerings and fees 
of their people, and the cultivation of their glebes. 
The addition of Government allowances in money, 
which is now made in many of the dioceses, and which 
is to be extended to all. is a recent improvement. 

The offerings and fees given on certain occasions, being 
quite voluntary, vary between certain limits according 
to the circumstances and the disposition of the giver. 
For a moleben, a common peasant will give perhaps ten 
kopecks copper (about 3rf.), another will give a paper 
rouble (about lid.), others of the higher classes from 
five to twenty roubles, about ten roubles being, per- 
haps, the commonest alms for such people. The fees 



Income of Priests. 3 39 

for a wedding will vary from twenty roubles to two 
hundred. But the poor in this case also, as in the 
former, give a much smaller fee in copper. After each 
confession, i.e. before they go to communion, they make 
an offering, which varies from five to fifteen roubles. 
For a baptism it is much in the same way, though if the 
Priest goes to baptize the child of a servant in the 
house, it would probably be less say a silver rouble 
(equal to three and a half paper roubles or copper), or 
half a silver rouble. Again, when a priest visits his 
parishioners at Christmas and at Easter, every house- 
holder makes him such an offering as has been custo- 
mary in that house or family. And the priests of each 
parish, who usually live together in towns in one Court 
(door), and are often four in number, throw the whole 
together, and divide it. Thus at the Church of the 
Admiralty here (used as the parish church for the 
unfinished Isaakski Sobor) there are three priests, who 
serve in the church week and week about, though any 
one of them who may be at home is liable to be called 
upon for occasional offices. F. thinks that each of 
these three priests must get for his share at least a 
thousand pounds sterling annually. 

I find that all the money obtained from the sale of 

candles in the churches goes to the Synod, in aid of 

the maintenance of the Spiritual Schools, Seminaries, 

and Academies. Those collections which I see made 

z 2 



340 Church Plate, &c. 

in a church go all to its repair and ornamenting. The 
money put into the box or bag attached to an /cow, goes 
partly to the Icon, partly to the church, and partly and 
chiefly to the clergy. There is also in a church a sepa- 
rate box for the clergy ; and worshippers who get a 
moleben (paraclesis), or are present at one, sung before 
an Icon, give as they please, either to the Icon alone 
or partly to the clergy. There are also fees or presents 
for occasional offices performed for individuals. The 
houses of the priests belong to the church ; and the 
administration of temporalities, except in Government 
establishments, is in the hands of the bishop and his 
clergy. A priest will sometimes let his private pro- 
perty stand in the name of his wife, that it may escape 
confiscation for (if so be) misconduct. 

There are three Spiritual Academies, viz., at Peters- 
burg (i.e. in the Nefski), one near Moscow (in the 
Troitsa), and one at Kieff (in the Bratsky, in the lower 
city). A fourth at Kazan has been added since 1840. In 
that here there are in all 150 students. They choose 
out for the Academy one, two, or three of the best 
scholars of each of the diocesan seminaries. There are 
fifty governments, and each government is also a diocese 
(eparchy) and has its Bishop and its seminary. Of 
the Nefsky Lavra the aged Metropolitan Seraphim is 
Archimandrite ; of the Troitsa, Philaret, Metropolitan 
of Moscow ; at Kieff another Philaret, Metropolitan of 



Income of Priests. 34 1 

KiefF. In the Nefsky there are other honorary Archi- 
mandrites, who have been called from a distance with 
a view of being made Bishops ; some too who cannot 
be made Bishops from their ignorance of Latin. 



CHAPTER LXXIL 
Church Music. 

nnHE singing in the churches here, as I have said 
-*" before, is certainly very pleasing, suited to the 
sense of the words, moving, and devout. It is as 
attractive as some of the readings, or rather gabblings 
(for some things are read very well), are disagreeable 
and repulsive. F. said, " If you buy the books with 
the musical notes printed in them, you will have in 
them the music, such as it is, sung in the monasteries 
and in churches, where there are only two or three men 
singers. But here in the city, and where there is a 
choir of singers, some parts of the services are sung to 
music arranged in parts. This music, which is based 
upon that of the books, is not printed. It has much 
in it borrowed from the Italian. Some time ago, a 
certain first-rate Italian singer being in the kapella or 
practising-room of the choir of the Winter Palace was 
moved to tears by what they were singing when she 
came in, though she did not know a word of Russ, nor 



Church Music. 343 



was told till afterwards that what she heard was part 
of the office for the dead. The singings for the 
Kesurrection at Easter inspire the whole congregation 
with the most lively joy ; it is impossible not to feel 
transported ; the responses to the priest's announce- 
ment, " Christ is risen ! " are made with an indescribable 
buzz or hum (cum fremitu) running over the whole 
church. F.'s mother had a great wish to die in Easter 
week, and this is a popular feeling. 



CHAPTER LXXIII. 
John Veniamineff, Missionary. 

"TVT V. 23. Dined in the Millionnaia, and met there 
the priest, John Veniamineff, the missionary of 
the Aleoutines. He was by origin from Irkontsk,and the 
mission was supported by the Eussian American Com- 
pany. He came here, coming round Cape Horn to try 
to obtain a bishop for his people. The whole popu- 
lation of the islands is 60,000, of whom now 10,000 
are Christians. There was a missionary among them 
before named Macarius, who baptized a number of 
them, but could not instruct them properly, as he 
knew nothing of their language ; and he stayed only a 
year. It being reported that the natives were ready 
to be baptized, the Bishop of Irkoutsk sought for a 
priest willing to go there, but all declined. At length 
this priest John, having been interested by what he 
heard of the natives, offered himself and went. His 
children were all born in the islands, but at length he 
sent them with his wife to Irkoutsk for education. 



John Veniamineff, Missionary. 345 

In the islands he made all his own furniture ; and 
when he had learned the language thoroughly he trans- 
lated some of the Church-prayers, the Catechism, and 
the Gospel of St. Matthew, which has now been 
printed in Slavonian letters. Not long ago, after his 
arrival here, news came overland of the death of his 
wife. He came by way of Rio Janeiro, and if he starts 
soon to return by land he will not reach the islands 
before September, 1841. During the first seven 
years he conversed with the natives, and taught 
them through an interpreter, one of the Russian 
American Company's people. He is now living 
here in the house of that company. The natives 
are incredibly zealous in attending divine worship, 
remaining several hours with great devotion, though 
they do not understand, yet knowing that it is 
worship. The service is still in Slavonic. He has a 
reader or singer, a Russian, who accompanies him, and 
one native priest. Others are now learning to read, 
and they have set up schools. They can nearly all 
say the Lord's Prayer, and a great many the Creed. 
Those who are not yet Christians are well disposed to 
become so, and are continually being instructed and 
baptized. They communicate once in about two years, 
as the missionary cannot visit all the islands oftener. 
I asked whether those who chanced to have the oppor- 
tunity communicated oftener than once a year ? He 



34-6 John Veniamineff, 



replied, " No, never." I asked what kind of Church 
discipline he exercised. Whether for greater sins 
there was excommunication and public penance ? He 
said the case of great crimes was as yet unknown 
among them. They seem to be the most mild, vir- 
tuous, simple, inoffensive, and submissive people on 
the face of the earth; wonderfully exercised in 
patience, often going several days together without 
food. The only case at all like those which I had in 
mind was one of justifiable homicide, as we should call 
it ; but he, on the man's confession, judged him in an 
assembly, explained that he had committed a great sin 
by killing a man even in self-defence, and said he 
must pray for forgiveness for a year ; and he also 
would pray for him. The man said he would pray for 
ten years. If any great crime were to be committed, 
they would give the offender up to be judged and 
punished by the Russian law ; his spiritual absolution 
would depend on the Priests being satisfied of his 
repentance. He confirmed the story which I had 
heard from Admiral Bicard of the old native who was 
supernaturally instructed ; only, instead of its being 
one Angel that appeared to him, the missionary said 
that he used to see two together. He had been bap- 
tized long before, but only very slightly instructed. 
The people came to the missionary Veniamineff and 
asked him whether they were to honour him and listen 



Missionary. 347 



to him, or treat him as a sorcerer. They told him, 
when he inquired about the old man's character, that 
it had always been very good ; that he prayed much to 
God, reproved them when they did wrong, advised 
them, taught them to pray, and told them all the 
same things that he told them ; that he often showed 
supernatural knowledge ; when they were sick he 
prayed for them, and obtained their recovery ; when 
they were suffering from famine he would tell them 
where they should find a dead whale. He had fore- 
told to them that he, the missionary, would come 
among them, and bade them follow and obey him in 
all things. He sent for the old man himself, who 
showed him the place where the Angels in white 
clothes (whom he called men) used to appear to him. 
He said that they told him all that they told him in 
the name of God. He knew much of the contents of 
the Old Testament (as well as of the New) by means 
of such revelations, viz. the story of Cain and Abel, 
that of Abraham, and the doctrine of the Mass. He 
continued to see the Angels after M. Veniamineff's 
arrival; but before long died. After the missionary 
had seen him for the last time he foretold that he 
would go to Petersburg, which was then far from 
his thoughts. This he learned when he revisited the 
island, and found that the old man had died a little 
before a happy and edifying death. There are some of 



348 John Veniamineff. 

them who know all the Psalms by heart in Slavonic 
without understanding them. M. Veniamineff was 
dressed in cotton velvet, and wore a gold pectoral 
cross and a red ribbon. (N.B. This custom of giving 
the insignia of Orders of Knighthood to ecclesiastics 
was introduced by the Emperor Paul to the great 
annoyance of his old preceptor Platon, the metro- 
politan of Moscow, whom however he forced to wear 
the ribbon and star given him.) He had a rough, 
weather-beaten look, but one that bespoke a simple, 
practical, decided character, and his manner was very 
friendly, open, and cheerful. He apologized for 
having forgotten his Latin, so that I could say 
but little to him except through the Potemkins, 
who interpreted for me. He had brought Madame P. 
one of the native dresses of the Aleoutines very thin 
and transparent, and as light as a feather, covering the 
whole person and the head, and protecting it against 
the excessive moisture of their climate. It looked as 
if it were made of fish bladders. The climate of those 
islands is more temperate than that of Petersburg by 
at least ten degrees. They cannot grow wheat or corn, 
as it will not ripen ; but their potatoes and roots are 
excellent. The potato was introduced into Kamchatka 
by Admiral Eicard, and I suppose it was carried to the 
Aleoutine Islands from thence. 



CHAPTER LXXIV. 

Mr. Palmer is presented to the Metropolitan of 
Moscow. 

"VTOV. 27. [o.s.] Count Pratasoff took me at 7.30 
TV p.m. to the Metropolitan Philaret of Moscow. 
He said to me in Latin, "We are very glad to see you, 
and to hear that your Church is favourable to unity, and 
respects Antiquity ;" and he asked about the Anglican 
Liturgy, saying, " All our Liturgies are most ancient ; 
but the Latin Church has changed its Liturgy for the 
worse in many points, for instance, in omitting the 
Invocation of the Holy Ghost ; and not only so, for in 
the East we adhere to the Apostle's injunction, and to 
our Lord's own example, both as to the kind of bread 
(leavened apros, not av//,os), and as to the unity of 
the bread." I said, " In this we agree with the East." 
Metropolitan : "I am glad to hear that you now 
reverence Antiquity." Answer: "Our Church has 
always preferred to follow Antiquity, and, together with 
her XXXIX. Articles, imposed in 1571 on all her 
clergy a canon binding them, * ut ne quid unquam pro 



3 So Mr. Palmer's interview 



concione doceant, quod a populo religiose teneri et 
credi velint,' &c., to preach nothing as of faith but 
what is contained in Holy Scripture, and what the 
Catholic Fathers and ancient Bishops have collected from 
the same." They both observed, " That canon is very 
good." " Also," I said, "in two out of three Liturgies 
in use among us, we have restored the Oblation and 
the Invocation of the Holy Ghost after the recital of 
Christ's words." He asked about the origin of our 
Liturgies, and I replied that in great part they were 
derived. from the Roman. Count Pratasoff here asked, 
" You had then the Roman till the Reformation 1 " 
Answer : " Yes, from the time of the Normans, and in 
the time of the Anglo-Saxons also, our Liturgy fol- 
lowed chiefly the Eoman ; but before that, to the end 
of the sixth century, the British Churches had had 
Liturgies of their own, as had also the Churches of 
Gaul and of Spain." "But now," he said, " you have 
omitted some things which you once had in your 
Liturgy. For instance, does your Church now admit 
Prayers for the Dead?" Answer : " They are omitted 
(except by implication) from the Liturgy, but they are 
not rejected or condemned. There was a legal de- 
cision on this point (in the Woolfrey case) two years 
ago." (TJte Count: "That is clear proof.") "The 
Prayers which formerly were in the Ritual were 
omitted, being popularly connected with the doctrine of 



with the Metropolitan of Moscow. 351 

Purgatory." The Count : " The abuse of a thing good 
in itself does not justify its rejection." They both 
said, " That popular liberty, which you have in 
England, does not seem very favourable to ecclesias- 
tical humility and discipline." " JSo," I said, " it is 
the devil's liberty, and the political mischief all came 
from the root of religious rebellion. He who has 
rebelled against Ms God will not scruple to rebel 
against his sovereign." They both smiled and asked 
me, " Are there many in England who think with 
you 1 " and the Count desired me to explain on what 
grounds I asked to be admitted to communion. 

I did so, saying, " In the Creed we declare that the 
Church is one, and we believe in the unity of the 
Church." Metropolitan : "It ought to be one, but it 
is not." I continued, "The division which exists is 
impious and detestable." Metropolitan: " Unity, no 
doubt, is much to be desired." The Count : "Are there 
many of the English who have the same idea with you 
about intercommunion 1 " Answer : " Most of them 
do not think at all about it ; they take the division 
existing de facto to be a kind of necessity ; but the 
formal doctrine of our Church and the professions of 
our great divines are quite different." " Is that so, 
indeed 1" they asked. Answer: "Our Church has 
never excommunicated the Greek Churches, nor the 
Latin Churches of the Continent; only, we excom- 



352 Mr. Palmer's interview 

municated the Romanists who are in England and in 
Ireland, and in Greece, and in Russia, as schismatics" 
" That is what I cannot in the least understand," 
said the Metropolitan ; "they are all the same with 
the Latins of the Continent ; communion depends on 
unity of belief. If they are fit to be communicated 
with abroad, they ought to be one with you at home ; 
if they are to be excommunicated at home they are to 
be excommunicated everywhere." I answered, " Yes, 
if they were heretics; but we excommunicate them 
at home, not as heretics, but as schismatics. A lay- 
man among us might hold all the errors of the Papists as 
theological opinions, blamed as they are by our Church, 
without his being excommunicated, unless in out- 
ward acts he behaved rebelliously." The Metropolitan : 
" He could not have, or certainly ought not to have 
such liberty, for communion requires the strictest 
unity of belief." " As a matter of fact," I said, " he 
certainly can, but the case is not likely to occur, for, if 
he held all Roman errors, he would hold among them 
the necessity of communion with Rome. However, it 
is true no doubt, as your Eminence says, that strictest 
unity in the faith is requisite for communion, but then 
the question arises, what precisely is the Faith, and 
our Church makes a great distinction between that 
Faith which every one must keep whole and undefiled, 
and secondary theological opinions, which are neither 



to the Metropolitan of Moscow. 353 

essential dogmas, if true, nor heresies, if false. We 
consider there are fundamentals of teaching and be- 
lief." The Metropolitan answered, " I cannot at all 
understand it. The Church should be perfectly one in 
belief. There are now several divided communions, each 
one in itself and alike in all its parts. It remains then 
only to ascertain which of them is right, or most right." 
I answered, " Whether rightly or wrongly, our Church 
makes this distinction. We have never charged the 
Papists with formal heresy ; beyond the necessary faith, 
then, we must not so much look to identity of opinion 
as to the legitimacy of the local altar or chair, to dis- 
tinguish in each part of the world the true Church and 
to constitute its unity." Metropolitan : "I deny this 
distinction of essential dogmas and secondary opinions, 
and think it contrary to the sentiment of all the 
Fathers." The Count said, "On that principle you 
would be an Universalist, changing your religion with 
your dwelling-place, as often as you crossed the frontier 
from country to country. Besides, who is to judge 
what is essential and what is not essential 1 That is 
most difficult, and opens the door to endless diversity 
and confusion." I answered, "No Church has ever 
denied this distinction which you would reject, nor 
can avoid making it ;" and I went on to give instances 
in illustration. 

At length the Metropolitan admitted my distinction, 

A a 



354 Mr. Palmer is presented 



but with the remark that there are many things so 
important, so intimately connected with, so practically 
inseparable from dogma, that to tolerate them is quite 
incompatible with unity of communion, belief, or 
Church." The Count repeated. " You are then a sort 
of Universalist : you admit at once both the Latin and 
the Greek saints." " Certainly I do," I answered, and 
the Metropolitan remarked that the Council of Florence 
had been ready to do the same. 

The Count now for the first time asked me to state 
to the Metropolitan our definition of the Visible 
Church, though I had signified it implicitly, and this 
I did as follows : " The one visible Catholic Church 
on earth, the true continuation and representative of 
that founded at Jerusalem on the day of Pentecost is 
at this time divided by differences about secondary 
matters into three local parts, all agreeing in the neces- 
sary faith, viz. the Orthodox Eastern Churches and the 
Western ; the latter being subdivided into the Conti- 
nental and the British. In their respective dioceses 
each holds original and legitimate jurisdiction. And 
if, in consequence of the de facto quarrels between them, 
any Bishop of either of the three seeks to draw away 
Christians from the other two, to organize them into 
separate congregations of his own way of thinking, thus 
making points of difference points of essential faith, 
we say that these new congregations are schismatical. 



to the Metropolitan of Moscow. 355 

The Metropolitan said, " You admit then the Oriental, 
the Latin Catholic, and the British Churches all at 
once." " Yes," I replied, " each in its original diocese 
or region, not otherwise." The Metropolitan again 
said, " I cannot understand this ; " he added, " Do 
many of you hold this theory 1 I think it can be any- 
thing but general." " My Lord Metropolitan," I 
answered, "it is no theory, but that definition of the 
Visible Church, which has its place in the prayers and 
formal acts of our Church, and has the general testimony 
of our theologians." " These are matters," the Count 
and the Metropolitan said, " for some future Council 
or Councils, but they cannot be treated of with indi- 
viduals." " Your language," said the latter, " suits 
well enough for the fourth century, but is out of place 
in the present state of the world ; such a wish for unity 
of communion is very good and laudable ; it is to be 
hoped that such feelings may become general, and then 
in due time the necessary steps may be taken by the 
authorities on all sides. But as things are, individuals 
cannot be treated with or recognized in the first 
instance ; now at any rate there is division." 

I said as before, " I do not see meanwhile how indi- 
viduals can either be exonerated of their duty to the 
local church in which they find themselves, or have 
lost their right to the sacraments." The Metropolitan 
answered : " In a case of necessity, such a claim might 
A a 2 



356 Mr. Palmer is presented 

be considered yours is not such, because there is an 
English church here to which you can go." " I acknow- 
ledge no English church," I replied, "in your dioceses; 
there cannot be two rightful churches in one place." The 
Metropolitan said, " But you have a church here ; and 
Mr. Law is under some Bishop I suppose the Bishop 
of London." I replied, " The English here are under 
no bishop of ours, nor at Moscow. They have their 
own chaplain, and pay him, and to them he is respon- 
sible that is to the Eussian Company." This surprised 
him much. " But then," he said, " your Bishops at 
home ought, if your view of things is right, to teach 
their people better, to teach them to seek union with 
us, and to go to our churches." "But," I answered, 
"they cannot go to your churches if you will not 
receive them ; and if a man going abroad asked his 
Bishop as to seeking communion " " Ah ! what would 
he answer 1 " asked the Count. " Why he would give 
an answer such as this probably, ' You may try, if you 
like, your disposition is good ; there can be little doubt 
they will refuse you, but there will be no harm in 
making the experiment.' " " Indeed, would they go as 
far as this?" interrupted the Count. "Well," I 
answered, . " they could scarcely do otherwise, for the 
principles of our Church are well known. I myself 
consulted in that way the head of my college, who is not 
the least eminent of our living theologians, and he 



to the Metropolitan of Moscow. 357 

heartily recommended me to make the application, and 
gave me a letter." 

" Then you mean," said the Count, " that all your 
English are schismatics because they have not brought 
letters to us from their bishop or archbishop 1 " " Not 
absolute schismatics," I answered, "but that is the 
strict form." "Why, then, have you not brought such 
letters yourself ? " I answered, " I have brought, as I 
have said, a letter from the head of my college, and 
I would also have brought a Letter in form from the 
Archbishop of Canterbury, but he, supposing the letter 
of the President of my College enough, thought it 
better not to countersign his letter, nor to give me any 
other separate certificate. The Archbishop knew of 
my intention, and expressed no disapproval of it." 
Count Pratasoff laughed, and turning to the Metro- 
politan said, " Ah ! ah ! ils ne voulaient pas se com- 
promettre." I said, " They feared lest a formal letter 
might be taken to give me some kind of public mission ; 
and the more so because they knew that I carried with 
me a printed Dissertation upon the XXXIX. Articles 
of the Anglican Church, to which, being merely my 
private composition, they would not desire to seem to 
give any authority. They said that I had all I needed 
in the letter of my Superior." The Count said again, 
laughing, " Ah ! ah ! but he is only a Priest, like an 
Archimandrite ; his letter is nothing ; you should have 



358 The Metropolitan of Moscow. 

brought the same countersigned by the Bishop." 
" Well," I replied, " if you will answer me thus, ' that 
I must bring letters from a Bishop before you take 
into consideration my demand of communion,' I will 
not lose time in applying for them. They were by no 
means refused me when I started ; indeed, the chap- 
lain of the Archbishop cautioned me against saying 
that they were." 

Thus the interview ended. Archbishop Philaret 
repeated his first words, when the Count presented me 
to him. " We are all very glad to see you in Eussia, 
and hope that good may spring from this seed." Upon 
this I took my leave, and left the Count and the 
Metropolitan still together. 



CHAPTER LXXV. 
His Letter to the President of Magdalen. 

n^TOVEMBER 30 [o.s.]. I wrote to the President 
-*"^ of Magdalen College a letter which I read to 
M. Fortunatoff. The heads were these : 

1. That the Church of England, considered as 
differing from common Protestantism, is even less 
known in Russia than in France. 

2. That the Russian clergy are either less careful, or 
less willing than the French to distinguish between 
the necessary faith and secondary matters ; and again 
between what is intrinsically necessary and what is 
necessary only from obedience to authority, whether 
local or universal. 

3. That they are not clear respecting the definition 
of the visible Catholic Church, but are either vaguely 
liberal, or narrowly Greek, the forms used in the 
reception of individual proselytes requiring them to 
anathematize indiscriminately, as soul-destroying here- 
sies, the errors of the Papists, the Lutherans, and the 
Calvinists. 



360 Mr. Palmer's Letter. 

4. That they make no clear distinction between 
Apostolical churches, holding the necessary faith, as 
the Roman and the Anglican, and others which are 
plainly heretical, as the Nestorian ; nor again between 
an orthodox church which is on its own territory, 
and has there a legitimate jurisdiction, and those which 
are intrusive and schismatical, as setting up altar 
against altar. 

5. That they would be much afraid of taking any 
steps which would scandalize the Lithuanian Uniates, 
or the Austrian Slavonians of the Greek rite, or their 
own ignorant peasants, or their own dissenters (raskol- 
niks), or the Greeks of the Levant ; and such a step it 
would be to admit an Anglican to communion without 
his renouncing Anglicanism. 

Mr. F. criticized it freely, and ended by going to 
his piano and singing the Trisagion (aytos 6 eos), the 
Cherubicon (Therefore with Angels, &c.), the Ter- 
sanctus (Holy, holy, holy) ; the Hymn (<ws IXapov) 
the Nunc dimittis, and the Te Deum. 



CHAPTER LXXVL 

Reconciliation and Marriage to Alexander of the 
Princess of Darmstadt. 

npvECEMBER 4 [o. s.]. Count Pratasoff having 
sent me a message to go to M. Skreepitsin's 
chambers, at 8 p.m. I went in a frost of twenty-three 
degrees, and drank tea with him, and two of his friends ; 
one of whom I had met before at the Sergiofsky poustin 
(hermitage). They did not seem to approve the sug- 
gestion that there is a connexion between the primacy 
of St. Peter and that of the Pope. They said : " We 
must think a little before we admit that." M. Skree- 
pitsin told me that the Count had asked permission for 
me to be present to-morrow in an upper room, (which 
looks down upon, from the end, into the church of the 
Winter Palace,) during the reconciliation of the young 
Princess of Darmstadt, the fiancee of the hereditary 
Grand Duke, Alexander ; and he bade me to come to 
him at 9 a.m. 

Next morning I went, accordingly ; and about 10.15 



362 Reconciliation and Marriage to Alexander 

he took me with him to the Palace, showing me the 
principal halls and rooms, in one of which (the Salle 
des Generaux) there was a portrait of our Duke. At 
last I was posted at the open arch, or window, of the 
church, with three rows of court ladies in front of me, 
who asked one another, with surprise, who I could be, 
and how I came there. The Princess, whose god- 
mother was the Abbess of Borodino, 1 was first reconciled, 
and read, or rather said by heart, very distinctly and 
with emphasis, the six pages of answers which M. Skree- 
pitsin last night would not let his friends call an abjura- 
tion, but which Count Pratasoff, to-day, in promising me 
a copy of the form, himself so called it, though he 
added : " We introduced into it for this particular 
occasion quelques adoucissements." 

After the reconciliation the Princess joined the 
Imperial family, and was kissed by them all in turn. 
Then the Liturgy began ; and, after the Consecration 
and the singing of the " It is meet," &c., she advanced, 
assisted by the Empress, made three low reverences 
before the Icon of Christ, and kissed it, and the like 
before the Icon of our Lady ; and when the Deacon 
appeared with the chalice, adored, answered the usual 
questions, and was, by the Metropolitan, communi- 
cated standing. 

Next day, Dec. 6, Commemoration of St. Nicholas, 
1 Vid. supra, p. 322. 



of the Princess of Darmstadt. 363 



and the Emperor's name-day was chosen for the 
betrothal. This ceremony, as well as the nuptials 
(coronation, as the latter is ordinarily called), is never 
performed by a Bishop, or by a hieromonacfi, but by a 
secular priest ; at Moscow, by the Protopope of the 
Church of the Annunciation, in the Kremlin ; here, by 
the Imperial Confessor, who is now the Archpriest 
Bajanoff. The betrothal is now commonly joined with 
the marriage itself; formerly in private houses, but 
now that is forbidden, and the prayers for the depo- 
sition of the marriage crowns are now commonly added 
at once ; so that the interval formerly required before 
cohabitation, no longer exists. Marriages, and other 
ecclesiastical acts of the Raskolniks are, civilly, null 
and void. 



CHAPTER LXXVIL 
Conversation with M. Mouravieff. 

npvECEMBER 10 [o.s.]. M. Mouravieif gave me a 
""^"^ palm, which he had brought from Jerusalem. 
He said that he had now read the " Treatise on the 
Church," by Mr. Palmer, of Worcester College, which 
I had put into his hands. " You are obliged," he said, 
" to apologize, and to cast about in order to defend 
yourselves, and your Reformation. But you cannot be 
defended. In that book the author fuses and patches 
together opinions and authorities, rejecting some, and 
accepting others ; but the Eastern Church is calm, and 
immovable. She has a good conscience ; she believes 
that she has kept all as it was at first. She has 
separated from no other church ; while, in your case, 
it is plain how it was. It is painful to contemplate, 
but manifestly it was a violent irruption into the 
church of laymen, who mangled and altered their 
religion to suit their own purposes. Union with such 
a church is impossible. Others may reasonably come 



Conversation with M. Mouravieff. 365 

to the Eastern Church and follow her ; but she can 
yield nothing in any way, least of all to you, between 
whom and us there are so many more differences, and 
so much greater, than there are between us and Rome. 
No doubt there may be, and may have been, among 
you, some who are better disposed than the rest. Such 
individuals may try to recommend a better kind of 
theology ; but union with a national church, which 
leaves such latitude for denying or asserting all kinds 
of opinion, is impossible. Our definition of the Church 
and our doctrines are clear, full, and indubitable, and 
rigidly maintained. There may be individual heretics, 
such as P., but their opposition to the Church is 
manifest." (Qu. How then do they remain protopopes 
in important parishes of the capital 1) " But with you 
everything needs explanations and apologies. One of 
you sees a thing in one light, another in another ; no 
two of you agree. There are your XXXIX. Articles, 
which any one may subscribe, and be a thorough-going 
Protestant. You, in your Dissertation, allow some 
things to us, and do not allow others ; you amalgamate 
and reconcile and electicise, that Protestants you may 
not be. But if you were to dare to preach or to avow 
openly your anonymous Dissertation, they would call 
you a Papist, or a Greek, or I know not what." 

Afterwards, when I had suggested that they might 
use their chaplains in London, so as to acquire a better 



366 Conversation with 

knowledge of the state of Church matters in England, 
and, by changing them after a few years, might form 
competent teachers of English, and readers and trans- 
lators of the better English books, he replied with a 
smile, " We have no particular reason for cultivating 
such studies ; English is not a classical language." 
" No special reason," I replied, " but at least some 
acquaintance with our better theology might with ad- 
vantage be substituted for the German, which is now 
read in Russia." He answered, "If we read here 
German books, we do not adopt the errors of the 
Germans, but can distinguish between good and bad 
without help from you." 

He said presently, " You saw on Thursday how an 
individual may be received." I answered, " I saw 
then simply the reception of a convert from soul- 
destroying heresy to the Catholic Church, not to the 
local church of Russia. Now it may seem to you all 
very well to call the Eastern Church the whole Catholic 
Church, and to "reconcile" Latins, Lutherans, Cal^ 
vinists, Anglicans, one and all, as heretics, foreign to it ; 
but I am sure that this will not stand ; sooner or later, 
the theory will break down ; it is a plain absurdity. If 
the Latins are heretics, the works of Thomas a Kempis, 
Francis de Sales, and Fenelon are the books of here- 
tics ; is the penitent to confess the reading of them as 
a sin 1 " " No," he said, " the works of heretics need 



M. Mouravieff. 367 



not be heretical ; not all works of heretics have been 
forbidden ; it had never been forbidden to read Tertul- 
lian and Origen." " But," I continued, "what is to be 
said of the admitted sanctity of so many Latins 1 of 
their comparative superiority in various points to you? 
And what a difficulty, what an absurdity it is to sup- 
pose that one-half of the Church, with the chief see, 
has fallen away into absolute heresy, and then has 
gone on extending itself and producing more fruits 
than that Eastern half which has remained orthodox ! " 

He answered, " I must allow to Rome the credit of 
activity ; but by that rule your English and Scotch 
Dissenters (of whom alone we know anything) beat 
you out and out ; for they are in India, America, the 
Levant, Syria, and Abyssinia, everywhere, and they 
convert numbers." I replied, " They are active enough 
no doubt ; but, as for their converting numbers, they 
have not done that as yet." 

He continued, "Besides, we do not say that the 
Latins are in all respects heretics, only in some points, 
as on the Procession, and in giving only half the Sacra- 
ment of Holy Communion to the laity. And, if we 
were to admit any others to be part of the true Church 
besides ourselves, it would certainly be rather the 
Roman Church than yours ; for there is comparatively 
but a slight difference between us and them." I said, 
" We by no means deny them either, any more than we 



368 Conversation with M. Mouravieff. 

deny you, in their legitimate dioceses. "But," he re- 
plied, " you manifestly fell away from them; and it is 
of no avail now to try to explain things away, and to 
change all our convictions as to your past history." 



CHAPTER LXXVIIL 
M. Fortunatoff on Transubstantiation. 

~T\ECEMBER 12 [o.s.]. Fortunatoff praised much 
~^^^ the Abbe Bautain's last book on Philosophy, 
and the movement in France in favour of a return to 
religion ; he had interchanged a letter with him. When I 
had quoted Platon as allowing that distinction, which 
F. and others will not hear of, between the two 
principal Sacraments and the other five, he said that 
Orders and Absolution were just as necessary as Bap- 
tism. I answered, "Each in its way; for some, and 
in certain secondary respects ; even more necessary, if 
you please, in those respects in which they are needed ; 
but birth and food are for life the principal things. " 
In fact Platon calls matrimony a ceremony or rite ; and 
I had read already to F. from Mr. Palmer's Treatise on 
the Church, a passage of Platon's letter to M. Dutens, 
" Vocem quidem Transubstantionis admittit Ecclesia 
nostra Orientalis, non tamen carnalem et naturalem, 
sed mysticam et spiritualem " (Theophanes is even 

B b 



3/O M. Fortunatoff 



bitter and contemptuous in rejecting what the Papists 
have invented). " Now," I said, " no one of you will 
go so far as to say that Platon was a heretic." "No," 
he answered, " certainly not. Nevertheless, the opinion 
of our Church is nearer to that of Rome." " I do not 
deny," I answered, " that the prevailing opinion is, as 
you say, nearer to that of Rome (no wonder, when 
you have been consciously or unconsciously borrowing 
from Rome in so many things, as the very word tran- 
substantiation, which seems to draw after it its received 
Roman definition) ; but I only say that this question 
is not so definitely shut up with you as with the 
Papists, and that a man may hold, express, and even 
publish as the doctrine of the Russian Church, a doc- 
trine identical with ours, and may distinctly deny the 
Roman doctrine without being called a heretic for it." 
"Yes," he said, "but I should like you to see what 
Demetrius of Rostoff writes on that subject. Theo- 
phanes was not quite orthodox, but inclined towards 
Lutheranism on some points ; and there are traditions 
and accounts of certain miraculous appearances pre- 
sented to doubting priests, which to me seem irrecon- 
cilable with your doctrine. And, if I am to believe 
that it is really Christ's body, what else can I say but 
this 1 that I see the appearance of bread, but believe 
that it is not bread but His body." " That," I said, 
"you may well say, and yet be quite orthodox." 



on Transubstantiation. 371 

" But how then," he objected, " can I say also that the 
substance of the bread remains V " Both Christ and 
His Apostles," I said, " and all the Fathers, and the 
Church in her formularies, call it bread after consecra- 
tion." He objected, " No ; Christ said ' Hoc ' the 
neuter, not ' Hie panis ;' and neither the Fathers nor 
the Church ever call it bread after the consecration, 
but ' gifts,' ' mysteries,' but I am afraid to speak too 
confidently either for myself or for the Church on such 
a point, and I suppose that Koutneyich also would not 
say much about such scholastic questions." 

Later in the day, M. Fortunatoff, who is now in- 
structing a Lutheran, and will probably reconcile him 
next Sunday, asked me, " Why are you going to trans- 
late the Catechism (the " Orthodox Confession") of Peter 
Mogila, the importance of which is merely historical 1 
You should rather translate courses of theology, as 
those of Ternovsky, Platon, &c." "Why," I replied, 
" I read to you this morning from Platon a passage, 
which, if you rightly represent your Church, is here- 
tical." He said, " I will not venture to say anything 
more on that subject, except this : that I believe that 
when I receive the Holy Mysteries, I receive the 
very Body of Christ, though my eyes see bread." 
" Yes," I answered, " that is quite right, we can have 
no difference about that." 

B b 2 



CHAPTER LXXIX. 
Various Notabilities at the Synod House. 

~T~ AST year, F. says, a monk, after being made 
an Archimandrite, and six of the cleverest 
students from the Spiritual Academy, went to Pekin 
to live there ten years, and to learn the Chinese lan- 
guage. (N.B. Some year later than 1850 this Archi- 
mandrite came to me at Oxford, heing then attached 
as interpreter to Admiral Pontiatine's mission to Japan.) 
December 13 [o.s.]. At the Synod, Mr. Skree- 
pitsin presented me to the Archpriest Bajanoff, late 
preceptor to the Grand Duke Alexander, .as well as 
Imperial Confessor. I also met Mr. Serbinovich, private 
Secretary to Count Pratasoff, the priest Raichovsky, 
Admiral Ricard, and others. One of them presented 
me to the President of the Academy of Sciences, who 
said he would show me the oldest MS. of the Scriptures 
which they have in Russia, being of the tenth or 
eleventh century. 

Mr. Skreepitsin said, "Our Church has, and we 



At the Synod House. 373 

have, one good point ; that is its tolerance. "We are 
not like Rome, which anathematizes all others ; we 
have our own rite, but can be at peace with others, 
for they are all essentially one. The same Christ is 
worshipped by us all, and all things else are matters 
of comparative indifference." I replied, "I cannot 
admit two or more religions, as you seem to do, but 
either we are of the same religion, or one of us is a 
heretic. There is one faith, one Church, one bap- 
tism, &c." 



CHAPTER LXXX. 
Conversations with the Princess Dolgorouky. 

"T^ECEMBEK 14 [o.s.]. Met at the Millionnaia 
the Archpriest Ktitnevich, who spoke again in 
praise of Bishop Andrewes's Devotions. He took me 
to the house of Princess Dolgorouky, whose husband is 
Governor of Vilna. She was interested, she said, to 
hear of the intention which brought me to Kussia, 
because " we are so used to have our Church and 
religion despised by those who know nothing about 
it." She spoke English perfectly. She complained 
of the bigotry of the Catholics : " They think it a sin 
to enter a Greek church." I suggested that the 
Catholics are quite right in acting so, if they are 
Catholics, if that is their distinguishing title. 

Presently she said, "You are High Church, but 
you have not in your Church the ' Mass ' ? the 
' Liturgy ' ? " " Certainly we have it," I answered. 
" But it is not always said there," she replied ; " this 
seems to me the great difference between our worship 



The Princess Dolgorouky. 375 

and that of the Protestants. I have often .been to 
hear the prayers, hymns, and sermons of the Lu- 
therans, but I never felt there as if I had been in 
Church ; on the contrary, the whole outward worship 
irresistibly impresses me with a sense of the depth 
and holiness of the mystery. In it, both in the 
words and the ceremonies, the whole incarnation and 
life and passion of Christ, our redemption, and the 
application of it to our souls, are shadowed forth, and 
pleaded and obtained. I know you have the Com- 
munion, which is contained in the Mass, but that is 
a separate thing ; and it is even opposed (popularly) 
to the Mass. The German Lutherans also have that ; 
but it is stripped of all that deep worship which we 
have in our Church, even when the people do not 
communicate, and which the Latins have also." 

After some farther conversation, she said, " I am 
sorry, however, that you should think so harshly of 
all other Communities, as of the German Lutherans. 
I have known so many excellent people among them. 
I love charity and tolerance, and dislike very much 
the intolerance and sweeping condemnations of the 
Catholics." I had been telling her that I first went 
abroad regarding all Lutherans and Calvinists of the 
Continent as brethren, though lacking some things, 
and Papists as all but idolators, but had soon disco- 
vered that the Lutherans and Calvinists are the Dis- 



376 Conversations ivith 

senters of the Continent, while as regards the Papists, 
in spite of very strong prejudices against them, I had 
been forced to feel that there was a deep unity of 
principles between us. She dwelt much on the denial 
of the cup to the laity, and said, " If anything could 
drive the people to rebellion it would be that." 

Some days after I visited the Princess again, who 
said, " You surprise me. In talking to you I do not 
feel as if I were talking to a Protestant, and yet I 
suppose I must call the Anglican Church Protestant. 
What strikes me is the vast diversity of opinions, and 
upon the most important points, which I find within 
the English Church and in English authors. I have 
read," she continued, " many English books " and she 
spoke of Tillotson, Hannah Moore, Bishop Home, &c., 
&c. " and my brother studied at Edinburgh, and has 
an excellent English library. I like much the pious 
and practical spirit of many of those English books, 
though of course I do not agree with the Methodistical, 
or Calvinistic, or Protestant doctrines contained in 
them, and, when I am preparing to communicate, I 
put them aside, and then read such as treat of the doc- 
trines we believe. At such times I would rather read 
Catholic books, as I do not find in them any difference 
to signify, but I cannot endure their uncharitable spirit. 
I, for my part, would gladly pray in their churches, 
but they think it a sin to come into ours." 



the Princess Dolgorouky. 377 

She was speaking especially of Vilna, where she has 
some Polish friends. They think all the followers of 
the Greek rite to be in the way of damnation. I said, 
" They are not to be blamed as uncharitable, because 
they have a horror of heresy and schism. Though they 
be wrong in their definition of the Church, that it is 
rather the fault of the Popes in past times than of in- 
dividuals under authority now. Your own forms for 
receiving proselytes set up for you just as exclusive a 
definition as that of the Latins, only you are incon- 
sistent. You all of you disbelieve the sense of your 
own books and formularies, and your danger lies in 
this, that, when your common sense has carried you 
out of the exclusive Orthodox-catholic Eastern definition 
of the Church, you know not where to stop, and so 
your practical disallowance of the formal pretensions of 
your own Church degenerates into liberalism and in- 
difference. Here, for instance, I have not met with a 
single person who has shown solicitude to bring me to 
the orthodox communion for the salvation of my soul, 
though were I, thus unbefriended, to come myself to be 
reconciled, God would be thanked * for having put it 
into my heart to flee, as from the flood into the ark, 
from heresy and the way of damnation into the true 
Eastern Church, out of which no one can possibly be 
saved.' Is this charity 1 I call it rather cruelty." 

She seemed not to know anything about those 



3/8 Conversations with 

passages in the formularies which I quoted ; nor to 
know how far they were of authority. She said, " Our 
Saviour distinctly rebuked such a spirit in the Jews 
towards the Samaritans, and turned the Samaritan 
woman's attention away from such former disputes to 
'spirit and truth.'" On the contrary, I pointed out 
how He laid down to her dogmatically, " Ye worship, 
ye know not what ; we know what we worship ; 
salvation is of the Jews." So also the Church 
says now, to the Protestants, " Ye worship ye know 
not what, for salvation is of the Church." She 
admitted it, and said, smiling, " I wonder what my 
son's preceptor, an excellent Evangelico-Eeformed 
Lutheran would say if he heard you accuse me so 
strongly of Protestantism. I cannot endure that illi- 
berality. I think one must admit the difference be- 
tween those who believe in Christ and wish to obey 
Him, and those who do not. If a man has this requisite 
with honesty of purpose, though he be out of the pale, 
one must feel and admit that he is a Christian, and in 
the way of salvation." 

I asked, " When once you begin, where can you 
stop 1 " She answered, " Some time ago I wished to 
engage a preceptor for my son. A German presented 
himself. I asked, ' Are you a Christian 1 ' He was 
confused, and hesitated ; then he said, ' I have not 
made up my mind, I have not quite formed my 



the Princess Dolgorouky. 379 

opinions.' So I tried again, and at last got a satis- 
factory answer." " Satisfactory," I said ; "had he been 
baptized ?" "I took that for granted." " Therefore 
you must have thought it necessary." " Yes, certainly." 
"Did he believe in the Holy Trinity? in the Incar- 
nation ? " " Certainly, for I asked him if he was a 
Christian." " Perhaps he was an unbaptized Unitarian, 
for such there are in America. It is by no means 
certain that he would understand your questions 
in your sense." Just then the Hebrew Professor, a 
converted Eabbi, came in, and the Princess appealed 
to him and he settled the point at once in her favour, 
saying, " If you believe that Jesus is the Christ, and 
confess it with your mouth, you are in the way of 
salvation ; this is the doctrine of our Church." 



CHAPTER LXXXL 

Conversations with M. Motiravieff, the Bishop 
Veniaminoff, and M. Serbinovich. 

r I iHE same day I saw M. Mouravieff, and lent him 
-^ a little book, published at Rome, in which an 
attempt is made to prove that the Russian Church had 
remained in communion with Rome long after the time 
of Cerularius ; alleging, among other things, in proof 
of this, the reception in Russia of the festival of the 
translation of St. Nicholas to Bari, a festival which 
the Greek Church ignores. He said, "All the com- 
munications and intercommunions stated to have taken 
place between the Russian Church and the Roman, 
after the breach with Constantinople, are inventions 
and misrepresentations of the Uniats." He put aside 
all attempts to defend or excuse the Anglican Church 
for its actual separation from Rome, saying, " The 
Pope had acquired a right of jurisdiction. The Latin 
Church had taken that Gothic form and constitution, 
and your separation was made by secular violence. If 



Conversations and Visits. 381 

I had been an Englishman then, I should have adhered 
to the Pope." Presently, however, he admitted that 
the Pope's supremacy was not necessary or right in 
itself. 

He then returned to his constant topic, of the utter 
uncertainty and mutual contradiction of all accounts of 
Anglican doctrine. From him I went to visit the new 
Bishop of the Aleoutines, now called Innokenti, who 
told me that they now have four or five churches built 
in those islands. 

At night I went to Count Pratasoff's private secre- 
tary. As to my wish to communicate, he said, " As a 
layman, I cannot say much about it. We are obliged 
to be extremely cautious, and must wait for God's good 
time for unity. At present we can only have unity of 
good will and sympathy. It would be impossible to 
allow your demand without setting a precedent ; and 
anything new might cause mischief. We must take 
care not to make more Kaskolniks than there are 
already. For instance, if I were to say what you said 
just now, that the Icons, approved by the Second 
Nicene Council, were not only pictures, such as we 
have now, but statues also ; that is to say, images of 
any kind, I should be a kind of heretic for many. 
Therefore we must wait till those prejudices of 
ignorance are removed by education. Besides, the 
Greek Churches must be treated by us with great 



382 Con versation 



respect, and the Eussian Synod could not well do 
anything alone." 

He told me that he was educated in the Jesuit 
College, at Polotsk, where they made much of Aristotle. 
We then conversed about the method of study pursued 
at Oxford, by reading well-chosen books, rather than 
by hearing Professorial lectures; and our consequent 
freedom from the German plague. He said, " We, on 
the other hand, read the German systems of philosophy, 
and especially courses, or views, of the history of 
different systems, if not to learn truth, yet to correct 
error." He asked about the Scotch writers. I re- 
plied, " They and the Germans, or the Scotch at any 
rate, are the great authorities of our enemies, the 
Whigs and Kadicals." He said, " You must be 
reckoned obscurantists, if you have such ideas." I 
replied, "So we are." He laughed, and said, " We 
have but little acquaintance with English books." He 
showed me in a French paper, certain statements about 
the progress of Catholicism in England, where there 
are now 500 chapels, and there was an account of Mr. 
Spencer's visit to France, and of a speech made by 
him 'at a dinner, &c. And he asked whether these 
statements were true. Also he showed me another 
place, in the same French paper, in which it was said 
that Dr. Hampden had been censured by the University 
of Oxford, for having in his writings shown a tendency 



with M. Serbinovich. 383 

to Catholicism ; and that, at the request of the Uni- 
versity, the Protestant Archbishop of Canterbury, had 
remonstrated against his appointment ; and he asked 
whether all this was so 1 

He said that he supposed that I had all the answer 
I expected to my application for Communion; and 
seemed surprised when I replied that I wished to have 
a formal answer from the local ecclesiastical authority, 
since in strict propriety I had nothing to do in spiritual 
matters with the Civil Government ; but only as I 
cannot stay here without its permission, it is right to 
show its representatives all deference. " But," he said, 
" that will be a difficulty. It would be a long affair : 
for a priest would have to go to the bishop, the bishop 
to the Synod ; and then there might be a long and 
difficult question, if they entered into it, to determine 
what is a confession of the essential faith (which is so 
perplexed and complicated by the mixture of con- 
siderations of local or universal authority, and of 
ecclesiastical decisions, with the assumption of some 
one or other definition of the Church itself). Then 
there would be the question, whether you rightly 
represented the doctrine of the Church from which 
you come, into Russia : for that also is a difficulty, to 
treat of such matters with an individual." 

He did not seem to know that certain formularies 
now in use asserted so strongly the Eastern-Capholic, 



384 M. Serbinovich. 



definition of the Church, but said that " in fact the 
violence of Rome drove the Eastern Church into similar 
violence, which was in a manner necessary for self- 
protection. But now that is much mitigated on our 
side." N.B. But the excommunications and anathemas 
came first from Photius and from Cerularius, not from 
Kome. 



CHAPTER LXXXII. 

The Count suggests, that, since the Russian Church 
cannot go to Mr. Palmer, he should go to the 
Russian Church. 

~T\ECEMBER 27 [o.s.]. At the house of the 
Riumines Miss S. said that she had been reading 
some of Mr. [Isaac] Taylor's writings against the "Tracts 
for the Times," and wished to see the Tracts themselves. 
As she was talking about the Invocation of Saints, and 
supernatural healings sought and obtained through 
sacred images, and wished to know my opinion, I told 
her that once I was talking to a learned old man at 
home on the subject, and reminded him of the shadow 
of Peter, and the handkerchiefs which had touched St. 
Paul, and said that an invocation was at least as good 
as a shadow. He replied that " Scripture did not say, 
sir, that the good men acted rightly." Such an answer 
settled the question, certainly, and I could not help 
laughing ; then he laughed too, feeling how much he had 
gone too far. 

c c 



386 Count Pratasoff's stiggestion. 

Having gone across to the Millionnaia, I found with 
Mde. Potemkin the son of the French Ambassador, M. 
de Barrante. He asked me questions about the new 
Oxford School, and seemed quite to understand that 
the whole movement had been caused by the political 
changes of 1828 and 1829 (the admission of the Pro- 
testant Dissenters and the Irish Papists to a share of 
the imperial power). He admitted that there had been a 
very overbearing and violent spirit at the time of the 
Reformation ; and he regretted the Ultramontane Bull 
of Pope Pius V. against Elizabeth. He spoke of the 
inconceivable variety of religious opinions and tenden- 
cies in England in the churches of the Establishment. 
"Now," he said, "your bishops have been noticing 
in their charges the ' Tracts for the Times,' some more 
or less favourably, others quite the contrary, as, for 
instance, the Bishop of Chester, who thinks the devil 
is at the bottom of them." 

December 28 [o.s.]. Went to Count Pratasoff with 
respect to my application for Communion ; he said that 
Dr. Routh's Letter had been laid before the Synod. He 
added, " I tell you frankly we must be very cautious. 
To admit the claim of any one person, as of you, would 
be the same thing as to offer union to all the "West, on 
the terms of agreement in essentials, in spite of dis- 
agreements in non-essentials." I said, " I wished, 
whenever I might, to make my demand ecclesiastically, 



Count Pratasoff's suggestion. 387 

and so to get an ecclesiastical answer." He said, " Go 
and talk to the Metropolitan of Moscow ; you have 
seen him as yet only once, and then I went with you 
formally and officially, as the Emperor's representative. 
Now you can go and visit him, as he is better again, 
and see what he says, and then come and see me 
again." I said, " The simplest course for me is to say, 
If I am a Catholic, give me Communion ; if I am a 
heretic, instruct and convert me. If you helieve your 
own exclusive definition of the Church, and have only 
a spark of charity, you ought to send a mission to Eng- 
land to convert us." He said, " We would only send 
missions to places where there is a chance of success ; 
and," he added, laughing, " my best hope is for you, that 
we must convert you, and make you a bishop, as we made 
that Missionary bishop for the Aleoutines when you were 
present the other day, and send you back so." I said, 
" I have to meet a previous question before I answer 
you here, viz., Is not the Anglican establishment 
part of the Catholic Church ? for, if I am a Catholic 
already, it would be a bad conversion to become Eastern 
instead of ecumenical, particular instead of universal ; 
and if my only crime is coming from a "Western 
diocese, with which you have never had any formal 
quarrel, then with what plausibility could I recommend 
or start a fresh schism merely to call what is Western 
Eastern ? If I am not a Catholic, convert me to the 
c c 2 



388 Count Pratasoff's suggestion. 



Catholic Church as quickly as you can ; I desire nothing 
better." He said, " We are now in correspondence with 
a French priest " (whose name he mentioned) " who 
wants to become a member of our religion. The diffi- 
culty is, What Mass is he to say 1 and it is probable 
that we shall not be able to put off long the question 
whether we are to allow of the Latin Mass being said 
in our Communion." 



CHAPTER LXXXIIL 

Princess Eudoxia Galilsin about Russian 
Dissenters. 

"TANUARYl [o.s. 13N.S.], 1841. Since 1700 this 
V day has been kept as beginning the Civil New 
Year. 

On January 4 [o.s. 16 s.s.] dined with Prince 
Michael, and went with him afterwards to his aunt, the 
Princess Eudoxia. She asked, " How can you pre- 
tend that your religion is the same as ours when 
you have not the same sacraments or altars in your 
churches ? You came out of the Catholic Church at 
the Reformation." When I objected to her way of 
speaking, she said, "The English themselves speak 
as I was speaking." " That," I replied, " is nothing 
to me. But if the Church of England were to adopt 
that language of the world, then I should have to 
look out for the old, true, and Catholic Church, 
wherever it is nearest, and might soon find my way 
to Rome." She objected: "But why do not your 
bishops speak out and teach the people their true 



39O The Princess Eudoxia Galitsin 

doctrine ? Ah ! it would be a great thing if you could 
introduce the Liturgy into your Church, instead of hav- 
ing only Preaching." I retorted on her, and blamed 
her for calling all Latins indiscriminately Catholics. 
She laughed, and confessed that this was wrong. 
" But," she said, "we do not absolutely impute heresy 
to those Churches, but think our own the most per- 
fect." And she mentioned points on which the Latins 
were in error, or at a disadvantage. " They have inter- 
polated the Creed of the Councils ; they have changed 
the form of administering Baptism; they have dis- 
joined from Baptism, Confirmation or Chrism, and 
Holy Communion too, and made the fitness of the 
soul to receive them to depend upon a certain develop- 
ment of the intellect. Then, again, they have their 
fire of Purgatory, whereas we think that there is much 
which even the Church must confess herself not to know 
here as not having been revealed, and that a limit is to 
be set in defining in such things." 

She admitted a discrepancy between the claims of 
their Church books and the opinion practically held by 
all of them ; that the life of the Latin Church cannot be 
denied without a flagrant disregard of common sense ; 
and that this discrepancy causes a certain weakness. 
She admitted, also, that in their higher classes there is 
want of that zeal which the Latins have, and that a social 
attraction would rather draw one over from the Greek 



about Russian Dissenters. 391 

Church to the Latin, though that she knew this would be 
only weakness. "The people," she said, " are the real 
strength of our Churches." She talked of some priest 
who had suffered much persecution for his Orthodoxy, 
and of the spirit still living in the clergy, observing, 
"How bravely Bishop M. of M. behaved, who was 
sent to Siberia for opposing the divorce of the Grand 
Duke Constantine Paulo vich ! With what joy he 
took it ! And, again, that other Bishop N. of N., 
who was shut up in a madhouse for speaking strongly 
to the Governor of the province. You remember 
these things," she said, addressing the Prince. 

She also spoke of the schismatics called Staro-obratsi, 
and some of them who have been reconciled with 
permission to retain their peculiarities, and who are 
called Edinoviertsi ; of the severity of their fasts ; of 
their long services and their unwearied devotion. 
"Their churches," she said, "are always thronged; 
they admit no nobles, nor any others without beards ; 
so neither you nor he can go to their worship ; and 
they have the old books ; they have never recognized 
the changes made by Peter I., but still demand that 
there should again be a Patriarch." She seemed to 
have much the same ideas herself; and she said, after 
asking some questions about our Church-government, 
" Ah ! if you could but make for yourself a Patriarch, 
your work would be done ! " They say that those 



392 The Princess Eudoxia Galitsin 

reconciled Staro-obratsi have also much more efficient 
discipline ; that many of them know all the Psalter by 
heart, and have a very extensive knowledge both of 
the Scriptures generally, and of the services of the 
Church. They use not five prosphorae (oblations) in their 
liturgy, but seven. She complained of scandal arising 
from the present state of things, when the Church is ; 
governed by a layman, Count Pratasoif, who (respect- 
able as he may be) dances the Mazurka, " * C'est un tres 
galant homme, il danse tres biea.' That is the kind 
of remark made in the saloons about him." She spoke 
of a poor nun, a peasant girl aged twenty-two (Prince 
Michael, interrupting her, asked, " How could she be a 
nun at that age ? She must be thirty-five to be a 
nun ") coming from the country and telling the Em- 
peror that she must talk to him for two hours. He 
objected : " But perhaps I cannot stay to hear you so 
long, I have a great deal to do." She said that was 
his affair. He took out his watch, and she talked with 
great eloquence to him for two hours about his duties, 
the duties of the clergy, and " the new philosophy." 

She told the Hereditary Grand Duke that he had seen 
her in a dream, on such a day, which he absolutely 
denied. But on referring to his journal he confessed 
that it was true. She, the Princess Eudoxia, spoke 
of a miracle in a convent, which was reported and 
described at length to herself by the Abbess, who had 



about Russian Dissenters. 393 

witnessed it. A nun having died there with the repu- 
tation of sanctity, there was brought to the convent a 
young woman who had entirely lost the use of one leg. 
It was withered, and seemed to be only skin and bone. 
They placed her on what had been the bed of that holy 
nun ; and on one of the days on which they sang for 
the departed, she, having a strong faith that something 
of the sort would take place, felt a revolution in her 
withered limb, and cried out to them : and presently 
she got up and walked, and then was frightened at 
herself. The Abbess would not believe it when she 
was told, but thought they were jesting with her, till 
she saw it with her own eyes. The wonder was, she 
said, where the flesh could have come from in so short 
a time. She spoke also of a certain Saint Macarius, 
whose canonization is now in progress. That nun has 
not yet been canonized. 

Then she spoke of the Protestants; she said that 
they " denied the divinity of the Blessed Virgin." The 
Prince would have made her change this expression, but 
she would not be corrected by him. In fact, in the 
singings of the Church they do say to the Blessed 
Virgin, "Leave us not to human protection." The 
Prince said to me afterwards, " You can easily see that 
if my aunt, a clever and pious woman, fond of reading, 
and of the highest rank, could so let fall from her lips 
what, if her words were taken strictly, would be heresy, 



394 Russian Dissenters. 

there may be much misconception and abuse among the 
common people. Again, on another occasion as they 
were singing, " most holy Mother of God, save 
us ! " he whispered to me, " There is something which 
may be taken in a bad sense or in a good. But though 
there may be things of this kind, there would yet be 
no solid ground for a Russian on that account to 
renounce his Church for yours." I said, " Certainly not. 
The only question about such things, as between our 
Church and the Greek, is one of practical discretion." 
He replied, "But people may say that you are not a 
fair representative of the English Church. As when I 
asked my banker (a Scotchman), an excellent fellow, 
about you, he replied, ' Oh ! he is not of our religion ; 
he is a member of some new sect,' I know not what he 
called it." 

The Prince told me that he and some others had 
addressed a memorial to the Emperor this year on 
Christmas Day (or the New Year ?) representing that 
the time was come, and the nation looked to its Ortho- 
dox Emperor to take the lead in proposing to the other 
Christian Powers, and in requiring of Turkey that the 
Holy City of Jerusalem, at least, should be placed under 
the protection of Christendom. Count Pratasoff has 
told him that he had received at the same time similar 
petitions from all parts of the empire, and in particular 
one from the Bishop of Voronege. 



CHAPTER LXXXIV. 

The Metropolitan Philarefs definitive judgment 
on the XXXIX. Articles. 

"TANUAKY 20 [N.S.]. At seven p.m. went with M. 
" Mouravieff to the Metropolitan of Moscow, who 
said, " How happy is our Church which has preserved 
unaltered the Liturgies of St. Basil and St. John Cbry- 
sostom ! How do you like them ? Your Church could 
not adopt one of them consistently with these XXXIX. 
Articles." I had lent him them in Welshman's Latin 
edition; there he had been reading them, and now 
proceeded to criticize their doctrine point hy point. 
" I have read your Latin Introduction," he said, " and 
I think it much more orthodox, and much more con- 
formable to the doctrine and spirit of the Eastern 
Church, than are the Articles themselves of which it 
treats. There are in them many erroneous propositions, 
such as could not be allowed with us." I replied, 
" Our Church certainly must be presumed to have 
meant their Articles to be taken and interpreted in a 
Catholic and orthodox sense, seeing that the same 



396 The Metropolitan on the XXXIX. Articles. 

Synod which accepted and imposed them on the 
clergy imposed also the following Canon : * Preachers 
should be careful that they should never preach aught 
in a sermon to be religiously believed by the people, 
except what is conformable to the Holy Scriptures of 
the Old and New Testament, and which the Catholic 
Fathers and Ancient Bishops have thence collected.' " 

They both laughed ; and the Metropolitan said, 
" All I can say then, is, that this Canon of theirs is 
much better than their Articles, and ought to be 
printed together with them. Unity, indeed, is very 
desirable, but, with such obstacles in the way, extremely 
difficult to attain." 

Also he said, " You are the excellent defender of a 
bad cause." 

He also observed, " It astonishes me to think 
that you should have been all so entirely occupied 
with your own disputes in the West, as to take no 
notice of that most grave question, which, more than 
anything else, has divided the Western from the 
Eastern Church, the question of the Procession. On 
that point the Testimony of the Fathers is clear." 

M. MouraviefT bade me write my demand of com- 
munion in a Letter to the Metropolitan ; but he said, 
" To an individual the Church can concede nothing ; 
and no one can communicate except with an uncondi- 
tional acceptance of all that she teaches and practises." 



CHAPTER LXXXV. 

The Princess Dolgorouky on the Russian 
Peasantry. 

"TANUAEY 23 [N.S.] Dined with Prince and 
^ Princess Dolgorouky. The Princess desired to im- 
prove education on her estates : she had had great diffi- 
culty in setting up a school. First, the priest would not 
undertake it himself, nor let the younger priest. " Well," 
she said, " but let the diachok teach the school ; only 
do you give them religious instruction when you can." 
The priest said it was impossible for him to go to the 
diachok's house. " Well, then," she said, " he shall 
teach them in a room in my house." To that he 
objected that it was contrary to a rule laid down by 
the Synod, which prohibited the taking of unfit per- 
sons as teachers in private houses. She at length 
applied to the bishop, who scolded the priest : and 
then the priest became very obedient, and the school 
was opened with a special Liturgy, &c. But the 
parents were in a terrible way, and the mothers espe- 
cially were all crying for a week, and every boy and 



398 The Princess Dolgorouky 



girl in the village were declared one to be ill in one 
way, and one in another ; one had a headache, another 
had bad eyes ; and a third a bad leg and so on. 
And they went to the priest himself to plead for them. 
The Princess was walking in her garden with an old 
man behind her, who worked there ; and as he was 
the starost, or head-man of the village, she told him to 
set a good example, and send his boy regularly to 
school, and she was sure he would not repent of it 
and she would be much pleased. He scratched his 
head for some time, and at last said that if she would 
allow him, he wished to say a word about that : 
"They did not like," he said, "to send their sons to 
the priest, as he would make workmen of them, as he 
had done with some pupils he had had from the town, 
setting them to work in his garden, or on his land." And 
the priest, among other objections, had in truth started 
this, that he could teach them nothing unless he had 
them the whole day, while the parents, on the other 
hand, wanted their work for themselves. 

I have heard a frightful account of the ignorance of the 
peasantry, and that the women are even worse than the 
men. " They know," this lady said, " the Lord's Prayer 
generally, but I doubt if they could repeat the Creed : 
they might know some of it : certainly they could not 
repeat the Ten Commandments." "They ought," I 
said, "to be catechized." " Yes," she replied, " but 
they are not, and even when they are, the priest uses 



on the Russian Peasantry. 399 

language which is above them. If I ask them whether 
they understand at church, or what, and how much 
they understand, they wonder at the question, and say, 
1 How should we understand, as we cannot read 1 ' And 
if you talk to the priest of instructing them, he says, 
1 How is it possible to instruct people who have never 
even been taught to read 1 ' " Thus there are women 
who really do not know who our Lord is, or what He did 
for us ; so that the brutalized state of the peasantry cannot 
be believed by those who have not had personal know- 
ledge of it. On the other hand, they have no end of 
schismatics (Raskolniki). "There is," she said, "a 
craving among the people for religion (un besoin reli- 
gieux). The Church does not satisfy it, so they go off to 
the sectaries, who do more to satisfy it than the Church." 
"We had," she said, "a man-servant in the country, 
a man whom we employed in all sorts of ways, who 
took to reading the Scriptures aloud all night in his 
room, so that the other servants complained of it : the 
children could not sleep. This seemed strange ; but 
after some time we overheard him speaking to a fellow- 
servant about the Scriptures being the word of G-od, 
with a vehemence and fervour which showed him to 
be under a strong religious excitement. We sent him 
for several Sundays to the priest, who was not a bad 
one, and who talked to him well enough, seeing that 
he needed looking after. On our return, after an 
absence of some months, he ran away. He was for- 



4OO The Princess Dolgorouky 

given, but presently he ran away again. He was for- 
given again, but on condition that he promised not to 
do so again, else, we said, we must give him up to be 
made a common soldier. He replied, ' I wish to save 
my soul.' ' But cannot you save your soul,' I asked, 
4 by doing your duty in my service V * JSTo,' he said, 
' it is absolutely necessary for me to retire into the soli- 
tude of the forest, and I will give no promise.' ' In 
that case,' I replied, ' it is absolutely necessary for me to 
take severe measures with you.' ' So much the better 
for me,' he said, ' because I shall then be suffering for 
the truth.' " 

Some time before I went to live with Fortunatoff, 
when Count Pratasoff and M. Mouravieff were recom- 
mending me to learn Slavonic and Euss in some other 
way than by living with ecclesiastics, they said, " Why 
do you not take a Eussian servant, and talk to him 1 " 
A colonel with whom I chanced to make acquaintance 
offered me one of his serfs, a young man, who, he said, 
was a great chatterer (tres laUllard\ if I would engage 
him as a servant ; and I did, but I soon had enough of 
him. The first question was : what clothes was he to 
wear 1 For the night or two that he was with me, he 
slept outside my door in the English lodging-house on the 
floor, in his sheepskin. He was very dirty, and seemed 
quite stupid ; anything but a chatterer. I tried once to 
find out how he would answer the simplest religious ques- 



On the Russian Peasantry. 401 



tions. I asked him whether there was one God or 
many? He said, " One God (Edeen Bogh)." "But," 
I said, " in God there are more Persons than one." 
" Yes," he said. " How many 1 " He did not answer, 
and I answered for him : " There are three Persons, are 
there not?" "Yes," he said, "Three Persons." 
" What are they ? " Scratching his head, as if reflect- 
ing, he replied, " God the Father, Jesus Christ and " 
after a pause, "the Most Holy Mother of God." 
Clearly he had not been used to be catechized, or to 
answer questions. 

The Princess Dolgorouky said that the Church ser- 
vices, partly from the antiquity of the language, partly 
from the manner in which they are read and sung, are 
scarcely at all intelligible to the people. (This I really 
cannot believe.) " I read," she said, " every Sunday 
the Epistle and Gospel beforehand with my children, 
and explain it ; and then they can follow it in the 
church. But, if I omit this, they cannot. And so the 
children of the school can give some account of what 
they hear at church, but the others can give none ; and 
now some of those who have left the school, I hear, 
meet together at nights, and read good books." She 
said also : " I do not know that the people would 
understand the Church services much better, even if 
they were in the modern Buss, unless their minds were 
cultivated by being taught to read." 

D d 



CHAPTER LXXXVI. 

Whether Nationality is the religious need of 
Russia. 

"TANUARY 24 [N.S.]. At 10 a.m., the Liturgy, and 
^ a Moleben after it, in the Millionnaia, it being 
Mde. de Potemkin's name-day. The holy doors stood 
open at the time that the moleben was singing ; after- 
wards, when they kissed the cross, in the hand of the 
Archimandrite, he, seeing that I did not approach, 
himself stepped forward, and presented it to me to 
kiss. Afterwards there was a breakfast in a large 
room adjoining, at which were many more guests than 
places. Prince Meshchersky, once Ober-Prokuror, told 
me that it is his sister-in-law who employs the retired 
Bishop of Archangel, Aaron, to translate English books. 
One of the ladies present, on my speaking of the 
existing varieties of opinion, and having said that they 
seem sometimes to be overborne by the forces with 
which the Church of Rome urges the cause of unity, 
and the greater probability, if one must absolutely 
choose, as between two, that unity is right, replied, 



Nationality in Religion. 403 

" We have not a sufficiently strong sense of nation- 
ality." I replied, " Nationality in religion has been 
our ruin ; it has made us all but apostatize from the 
true faith, and we in England are struggling now to 
crawl out of that pit into which I hope you may 
never fall deeper than you have fallen already." But 
she thought the only mischief among them was a 
foolish desire to imitate foreigners, which Peter the 
Great left as a legacy to his empire. 



D d 2 



CHA PTEK LXXXVLL 
Mr. Palmer falls ill. 

ON January 31 [N.S.], after Liturgy and a funeral, 
I went in a sledge to the English lodging- 
house, and was detained there with gout, till Tuesday, 
March 30 [N.S.], when I returned to M. Fortunatoff. 
All February [x.s.], I was confined to the house ; 
during March I went out more or less. 



CHAPTER LXXXVIIL 
Count Capo cT I stria. 

~1\ /TAECH 21 [N.S.]. Again confined to my room. 
-^7'*- Prince Michael tells me he met last night 
Count Capo d'Istria, who had been present also 
with us in the Millionnaia on the evening of Tuesday 
last. He is brother of the Greek President, who was 
assassinated. He told the Prince I must be a spy, as 
my purpose of studying the Slavonic Church books, 
which I could study in the original Greek at Oxford, 
was manifestly only a clumsy pretext. " He, like the 
rest of the Greeks," Prince M. said, " shows a fanatical 
violence against the Latins, which we Russians have 
not." 



CHAPTER LXXXIX. 

Mr. Palmers Appeal to the Metropolitan of 
Moscow. 

this day, March 21, before I was taken ill 
again, I had gone with M. Mouravieff to the 
residence of the Metropolitan of Moscow, and de- 
livered to him my letter, in which I referred to Dr. 
Routh's letter, which I understood had been put before 
the Synod ; and, as I had received no answer to the 
desire of communion expressed in these, and was now 
going into the Metropolitan's diocese, and he as a 
member of the Synod had seen Dr. Kouth's letter, I 
thought proper to make my application specially to him. 
The Metropolitan said that he would reply to my letter 
in writing, but added, as did also M. Mouravieff, that 
the nature of his reply must be already pretty well 
known to me by our previous conversations. M. Mou- 
ravieff said that the Churches in East and West were 
separate, that union could be attempted only by Synods, 
that it was impossible to tell what our doctrine really 
was, that some indeed might think like me, others just 



Mr. Palmers Appeal. 407 

the contrary; that if they accepted my statements 
without proof and with all appearances against me, and 
with letters only from a priest or Archimandrite, and 
after the separation of so many centuries, it would cause 
enormous scandal in both communions, that I should 
be disowned and regarded as a renegade and apostate 
from the Reformed Religion, no less than they traitors 
to Orthodoxy by all the members of the Russian 
Church ; and that, as for the Metropolitan, if he were 
as Bishop to admit me, he would have to defend his 
own act in the Synod on no better authority than my 
word. 

Then the Metropolitan himself, having looked over 
the greater part of my letter, observed that it was no 
doubt true, and very remarkable, that there has been 
silence rather than any open rupture between our 
Churches, but still, he said, our present practice is to 
admit none to communion who do not accept the whole 
of the essential faith, and also the discipline and 
ritual ; for they act on the supposition of a real division 
between the two, and to make a change here was not 
in his power, but could only be moved in Synods. 



CHAPTER XC. 
The danger of Liberalism in Religion. 

"TV /TAECH 23 [N.S.]. Princess Dolgorouky said, " I 
am going to hear the Moravian Pastor, and I am 
sure the Archpriest would not disapprove of my doing 
so." We had a discussion on this point ; I thought 
such liberalism inconsistent with true charity. " On the 
contrary," she said, " it is the way in which the Ca- 
tholics carry out such principles as yours that makes me 
feel angry and irritated (effarouchee] against them, and 
more ready to go and pray in the temples of Lutherans 
and Calvinists than with them. And in this I am in 
no danger, for when I have been there, I cannot feel 
that I have been to church at all." " Your example, 
however," I said, " may encourage others to do the like, 
whom it may really harm. The exclusive zeal and 
charity of the Papists tells, and brings converts to what 
they proclaim as the one true Church, whereas your 
latitudinarian tolerance will never help to pull any one 
out of the fire." Just then the Prince came in, and 



Liberalism in Religion. .409 



appealed to the Bible in proof that all are Christians 
that confess Jesus Christ and follow their consciences. 
But here the Princess considered him to be going too 
far. 

Calling afterwards on M. Riumine, I found on his 
table a pile of Quaker Tracts in English, which he cha- 
ritably distributes to our countrymen in the prisons and 
elsewhere, and some other books of the Society for the 
Conversion of the Jews. The Quaker, Mrs. Miller, is 
employed to keep a large girls' school for the Empress. 
The Princess had said to me, " You can have no notion 
of the ignorance of our peasants and of its effects." 



CHAPTER XCI. 
Baptism of Jewish Children. 

"TV /T ARCH 27 [N.S.]. Went at ten a.m. to the 
-*"-*- Millionnaia to be present at the Baptism of two 
Jewish children, brother and sister, the one twelve, the 
other ten years old. Their parents were dead, but they 
had an uncle and aunt living at Petersburg, who were 
Christians. The Emperor offered to be himself their 
godfather, Mde. Potemkin being godmother, and Prince 
Alexander Galitzin standing proxy for the Emperor. 
When I came about a quarter before ten, I was told 
that the priest was then confessing the children ; 
shortly after, that they were reading the Hours ; and 
then again they had read to them the pravilo or canon 
preparatory for communion. The holy doors were stand- 
ing open, and six lights on the altar, and one in the 
middle behind it. On the side at the left hand of it 
the preparations had been made ; a semicircular screen, 
made of a curtain, had been set up, before it a cask 
two-thirds filled with water and draped with linen. On 



Baptism of Jewish Children. 411 

the north side of this cask there were steps, and a 
carpet; on the south side a naloi or stand, with 
napkins, &c., such as would be wanted. 

When we had all gone into the porch, the priest 
made the children turn their faces to the wall, that is, 
to the west, and make their renunciation of Judaism, 
the godparents being one on each side of them ; then 
they had to turn eastward; then to kneel, then to 
rise. Next the priest made the sign of the cross thrice 
on the top of the head of each, and, after some other 
crosses, breathed upon them, as if to expel the evil 
spirit. Then followed a full confession of faith. 

Then followed the office for making them Catechu- 
mens, so distinctly pronounced that I could have 
followed all without book. At the conclusion, the 
priest gave them the end of his epitracheUon (stole) 
and led them into the church. 

Then followed the Baptism, the children between 
their sponsors within the concave recess of the curtain, 
the priest between them and the cask or font, and the 
deacon on the south side. The boy said the whole 
Creed once and the girl once, and then the whole both 
together j they said it very well, especially the boy ; 
meanwhile some warm water was put into the font. 
The order for Baptism followed, lights were put into 
the hands of the children and sponsors, the water was 
blessed; the children were anointed with a camel's 



412 Baptism of Jewish Children. 

hair brush, on head and face, breast and hands, on 
their feet, their shoes and stockings being taken off. 
Then the girl and the godmother retired behind the 
back of the screen ; the boy was assisted to undress, 
ascended the steps, and thence stepped down into the 
font, standing up to his breast in the water, quite 
naked, towards the east. A cloth was held between 
the top of the font and the priest, who, putting his 
hands under it, plunged the boy's head three times, 
and, if I mistake not, repeated each time the whole 
form of words. Then, without any wiping (at least 
there seemed scarcely time for any), a white gown or 
robe was put on him, and over it a cloak. The girl 
was then baptized in like manner, the godfather and 
the boy and myself retiring behind the back of the 
screen, and a woman assisting the godmother. Their 
names were Nicholas Nicolaievich, and Elizabeth 
Nicolaievna. 

After this, both standing in their white robes or 
chrysoms, and with candles in their hands, they were 
anointed, that is, confirmed, the priest saying at each 
unction, " The seal of the gift of the Holy Ghost." I 
think it was after he had chrismed them, that the 
choir sang a few words which sounded heavenly. 

After this the children were taken out, and dressed 
each in a new suit of clothes, then the Liturgy followed, 
and the children were communicated. 



CHAPTER XCIL 

French and British Ambassadors on the Anglican 
Church. 

"TV /TAECH 28 [N.S.]. I met at dinner the French 
-^ Ambassador, who, I was told, had come on 
purpose to see me. After dinner a Russian nobleman 
read aloud to the company a French translation of my 
Letter to the Metropolitan of Moscow. M. de Barante 
first interrupted him at the mention of "all things 
contained in the Creed," saying that by these words I 
intended to elude the Keal Presence. My Eussian 
friend answered that I accepted all that was in the 
Creed, either explicitly or implicitly. M. de Barante 
denied our belief in it, and a dispute ensued. At last 
I -was called upon to answer, and I quoted Renaudot 
and Bossuet, in proof that the Arglican Church holds 
the doctrine. Much more passed of the same kind, 
during which I noticed that, when the lady of the 
house asked M. de Barante in what consisted the 
peculiarity of the English Church ? he answered, 
" Simply in this, that it has preserved the Hierarchy ; 
in all the rest they are like the other Protestants." 
May 2 [N.S.]. A friend told me that, meeting 



414 French and British Ambassadors. 

our Ambassador the other day, at dinner at M. de 
Barante's, on his saying that he had recently seen me, 
he had asked his Excellency what he thought of my 
opinions, and Lord Clanricarde had replied that he 
had nothing at all to say against them. He was 
himself a Whig, and, as such, must countenance 
Puritanism ; but, in his own private opinion, he had 
no liking for it. He saw its errors clearly enough, and 
its absurd and contemptible fanaticism. It was quite 
true, "que notre Eglise a ete toujours pour le fond 
Catholique, mais elle a ete terriblement defiguree et 
mutilee." He said, " If you were to read the books of 
many of our standard divines, you might think there 
was little or no difference between our Church and 
your own ; so, too, if you looked at our Prayer Books ; 
but, if you were in England, and went into our 
churches, you would find nothing of the kind. You 
cannot have an idea how bare and slovenly they are, 
or how lifeless and naked are the services and 
ceremonies ; so much so, that they have become con- 
temptible in our own eyes." My friend continued, " I 
asked, ' Why does not the Government attempt to 
improve things V To which he replied, ' If we were 
to show or to encourage any such disposition, we 
should have an outcry immediately against us for 
favouring Popery. Puritanism is very strong in Eng- 
land, and even among the clergy.' " 



CHAPTER XCIII. 
Formal A nswer of the Metropolitan of Moscow. 

nnHUKSDAY, May 20 [N.S.]. I received from 
* M. Mouravieff the written answer of the Metro- 
politan of Moscow to my letter. 

It was to this effect ; that he who would receive 
the communion from a diocesan bishop, must submit 
absolutely and without restriction to all the doctrine, 
discipline and ritual of the Orthodox (Eastern) Church. 
But to make union or reconciliation, with any con- 
cession or allowance, however small, is beyond the 
power of a diocesan bishop, and can be done only by 
Synods. At the same time he returned to me a Latin 
copy of the XXXIX. Articles, with the corners of the 
leaves carefully turned down at Articles XIX., XXI., 
and XXII. 



CHAPTER XCIV. 
Mr, Palmer leaves Petersburg for Moscow. 

"TV /PAY 21 1 [N.S.]. Left Petersburg for Moscow ? 
where I arrived on the 24th [N.S.]. It is a 
journey of 525 * English miles ; I went by diligence. 
The first day we dined at Tosna, a place fifty-eight 
versts from Petersburg, arriving there about four o'clock. 
I observed my companion in the coupe asked for meat- 
soup and meat at table, though it was Friday, without 
scruple, and the people of the hotel had no fast dinner 
to give. However, on the appearance of a thunder- 
storm he crossed himself three times. 

There is little to notice on the journey, except the 
long black-looking villages, which lie along the road at 
intervals. The houses are made of trunks of trees, 
roughly squared, and let into each other ; plastered 
within, but not without. The gable of the house 

1 Towards 700 versts, a verst being a little short of three- 
quarters of an English mile, according to Pinkerton ; but Murray 
says two-thirds, which will make the distance 780 versts. 



Journey to Moscow Villages. 417 



almost always fronts the road, and the roof, which is 
of boards and very high, projects some way over the 
walls, affording a shelter from rain or sun in summer, 
and shooting off the snow in winter. These houses by 
no means betoken poverty ; on the contrary, they are 
more substantial, warmer, and larger than any houses 
of our peasantry in England. Indeed, that sort of 
poverty which abounds with us cannot be said to 
exist in Russia. The peasants, whom we suppose to 
be wretched slaves, answer rather to our small farmers 
or copyhold tenants, than to day-labourers or paupers. 
They have all from sixteen to twenty acres of land, 
with horse and cart, sheep and other live stock, with a 
long range of outhouses running back behind each 
cottage for hay, wood, and the lodging of cattle in 
winter. This they hold, free of other rent, by a 
service of three days' labour in the week to the lord 
a service which is often commuted for an annual 
money payment. The ends of the houses toward the 
road are a good deal ornamented, and with their high 
roofs look not only picturesque but pretty, often having 
as many as three galleries or balconies of palings 
across, besides an ornamental board or bar just under 
the angle of the roof. The woodwork of these palings 
as well as the projecting edges of the roof and the 
shutters of the windows which fold back without, is 
often much indented and cut, so as almost to resemble 

E e 



41 8 Journey to Moscow Villages. 

a lace pattern. On the other hand, the extent of the 
outhouses behind, often very roughly put together, and 
of dead paling between every two houses, all black 
like the houses themselves from the weather, certainly 
presents rather a gloomy and squalid aspect, and 
contrasts strangely with the bright, clean, white-washed 
walls and green cupolas, domes, and roofs of the 
church or churches, and with the red-brick and white- 
wash of the Government Offices, and perhaps of the 
hotel. The road from Petersburg to Moscow is magni- 
ficent in its width and keeping, and in the granite 
bridges which one passes at different places ; but of 
scattered houses or cross-roads we see absolutely none, 
except here and there perhaps a mere cart- rut near a 
village. Our way ran through two uniform lines of 
forest of birch and pine, through which a wide space 
has been cut and left bare. This at the time looked 
wild enough, but on my return from Moscow it was 
one vast carpet of flowers of the brightest colours. 

Early on Saturday, the 22nd, in the grey of the 
morning, we saw several monasteries along the river 
Yolchoff before we entered Novgorod, in which there 
are still many churches, though it is no longer 
populous. The Cathedral of St. Sophia, of which we 
just caught a glimpse, is the oldest building of the 
kind yet remaining in a perfect state, and so one of 
the greatest architectural curiosities in Russia. 



Journey to Moscow Villages. 419 

As we left the city, we saw again several more 
monasteries in the distance along the banks of the 
river, and of the lake Ilmen. From Novgorod there 
was in the diligence a lad of about thirteen or fourteen 
years of age, who was returning to the Gymnasium at 
Moscow. He gave of his provisions to almost every 
beggar, choosing out the most proper object when 
there were several, with great care. He also took off 
his cap and crossed himself thrice whenever we came 
in sight of a church ; whenever it thundered and 
lightened; and when we first came in sight of the 
churches of any town or city where there were many. 



E e 2 



CHAPTER XCV. 

Grand Duke Alexander and his Bride, and the 
Toivnspeople and Villagers. 

r I 1 HE Grand Duke Alexander, the heir-apparent, 
~"^ and his bride were travelling to Moscow at 
the same time with our diligence, and were to join 
the Emperor at the Peterskoi Palace in the environs, 
Avhither he had preceded them a few days before. As 
they stayed for the night at Novgorod and again at 
Tver, they passed and repassed us upon the road more 
than once. The Valdai hills which were passed 
between Saturday evening and Sunday morning were 
inconsiderable, but still rising gradually, form some of 
the highest ground in Russia ; rivers, flowing in all 
directions and to the extremities of the empire, take 
their rise among them. Vishny Volochok, from the 
glimpse we had of it about eight o'clock in the morning, 
seemed to be rising into an important town by help 
of its canal, a canal which now unites the Baltic with 
the Caspian. One sign of this, the sprinkling of 
brick and plaster, red, white, green, and yellow, with 



The Grand Duke Alexander and his Bride. 42 1 

the black wooden houses which still predominated, was 
sufficiently remarkable. At Torjok, which is cele- 
brated for its manufacture of leather, there is a very 
respectable inn, and a number of churches, though the 
town is all of wood. We found the whole population 
drawn up in front of the hotel, awaiting the arrival 
of the illustrious travellers ; of course they were all 
in their Sunday dresses; and such dresses as an 
Englishman was not likely to have before seen. 

Some attempt shall be made to describe those of the 
women. First, shoes of a fanciful shape shining with a 
good deal of gilding ; coloured stockings ; a red, blue, 
yellow or green gown, with a long apron or rather a 
second gown over it of some equally bright, but 
different colour. I call it an apron because it seemed 
to be tied like one by a string round the waist, and 
to be always open either before or behind though it 
went all round the body, and reached down to the 
very broad border (perhaps a foot broad) of the gown. 
Over or rather above this apron they wore bodices 
or jackets made very thick, standing off from the body 
behind, and having capes reaching to the elbows all 
round of blue, red or yellow or parti-coloured work 
bordered with gilding. Out from under this bodice 
or jacket, which seemed made of thick woollen cloth 
or of cotton- velvet, there appeared puffy white sleeves. 
On the front of the head and forehead they wore what 



422 The Grand Duke Alexander and his Bride, 

looked like crescents of gold or gilding, which gave 
them the look of having golden foreheads ; and over 
these a silk handkerchief enclosing the hair tightly, 
and disposed or tied so as to flap in two divisions, 
something like a hood, upon the shoulders. They have 
a custom of strapping themselves tightly over the 
shoulders, which, besides that they are naturally of 
thick make as well as hard-featured, makes them 
seem to have very thick double waists, or no waists 
at all. Many of them had besides exceedingly broad 
ear-rings in their ears. The common dress of the 
men and boys was this : first, boots reaching up to 
the knee, into which were tucked a loose pair of trousers 
of striped cotton ; over that a garment answering to 
a waistcoat, but more like a shirt without sleeves, of 
striped cotton of some other colour, blue, or red : then 
the shube (the sheep-skin coat) or caftan (which is a 
cassock of blue cloth), with a bright red, blue, or yellow 
cotton sash round the waist. 

At Miaidnoe, the next stage from Torjok, while we 
were at the inn, a courier in a teleyga, or cart-basket, 
with three horses abreast, seated or reclining on a 
bundle of straw, drove up, and announced to the 
expectant crowd (who were not quite so gay as at 
Torjok, the place being much smaller), the approach of 
the G-rand Duke's carriage. They immediately began 
to strike the bells of the church which was just 



and the Townspeople and Villagers. 423 

opposite ; the carriage drove up ; the Grand Duke and 
Duchess alighted at the church ; and, on leaving it, left 
alms for the poor, and so drove off again amid the 
renewed sounding of the bells. At Tver, which is a 
city of between twenty and thirty thousand souls, and 
the seat of an archbishop, they were to stay the night. 
"We entered it some time after them, crossing the 
Volga, which, even there, is a large navigable river, by 
a bridge of many barges, about half-past ten o'clock at 
night ; and found the whole place brilliantly illumi- 
nated. "We stopped for tea on Monday morning at 
Kleen, only eighty-one versts distant from Moscow ; 
and from that stage there was a visible improvement 
in the appearance of the country: at least, one not 
unfrequently saw large plots of cultivated land among 
the waste on either side of the road ; also there was 
comparatively little wood. Still there was nothing to 
betoken the neighbourhood of a great capital, till we 
actually reached the barrier, or till we reached the 
Peterskoi Palace, which is at a short distance out of the 
city, on the left hand or north side of the road, a huge 
mass of dark red brick faced with glaring white, and 
with domes and roofs of a grass-green. We entered 
Moscow about six o'clock, p.m., and noticed as we 
entered many scaffoldings, platforms and rows of seats, 
which had been erected in the vacant spaces on either 
side of the way for the accommodation of spectators, 



424 The Grand Duke Alexander. 

who might wish to see the Emperor with his son and 
his daughter-in-law make their public entry. Some one 
observed that the clergy would go out with the Cross, 
in procession, to meet him, and conduct him to the 
Cathedral of the Assumption, in the Kremlin. 



CHAPTER XCVI. 
First View of Moscow. 

.UESD AY morning, May 25 [N.S.]. The morning 
after my arrival I went for the first time down 
the street called Dmitriefka, to the Kremlin, surveyed 
its Gothic towers and battlements, which excited my 
admiration more than any church or other edifice that 
I had seen, and entered by the northern gate, under 
the tower of St. Nicholas. This tower the French 
attempted to blow up, but succeeded only in part ; the 
Icon being unharmed, and the glass which covered it 
remaining unbroken. Then, walking on to the terrace, 
on the south, I saw all the view across the river, a 
vast extent of green and red roofs, of white and yellow 
houses, with an infinity of pinnacles, bulbs, and domes, 
intermingled with foliage and gardens, and streaked by 
the serpentine windings of the river. 

In the distance in front, scarcely distinguishable over 
the trees and houses which intervene, was the Donskoi 
monastery ; and to the right of it the Sparrow hills ; 



426 First View of Moscow. 

while quite on the left to the S.S.E. appeared the huge 
convent of Simonoff, with its domes, and tower 300 
feet high, looking like a little town in itself. The 
Novaspossky also, with its rival tower, a little more 
still to the left, was to be seen. Turning round from 
this view, so as to face the north, and the gate by 
which I had entered, I see on my left hand, within 
the Kremlin itself, the Cathedral of the Archangel, 
founded by the first Grand Prince of Moscow, John 
Kalita, son of Daniel, A.D. 1333, and containing the 
tombs of the Grand Princes and Tsars ; also the 
Cathedral of the Annunciation, which was the court 
church, founded by Basil Dmitrievich, great-grandson 
of John Kalita, in 1397 ; and beyond and behind these 
both, further to the left, the Cathedral of the 
Assumption, in which are the tombs of the Metro- 
politans and patriarchs, first founded in 1326 by John 
Kalita, at the suggestion of Peter the twenty-fifth 
metropolitan, whom in turn he persuaded to transfer 
his chair from Vladimir to Moscow. These three 
churches were all rebuilt in the fifteenth and sixteenth 
centuries by John, the third son of Basil the Second. 
Still further on the left, and now nearly behind me to 
the west, is the stone staircase built by the patriarch 
Nicon, and leading to the patriarchal vestry, library, 
lodgings, and private chapel ; and next to this again is 
the old Tartar palace, and the new palace, now building, 



First View of Moscow. 427 

a tasteless erection, with several old churches, which 
it is pleasant to know are to be preserved. 

So much on the left of me ; now, as I followed my 
right-hand view, I saw rising to the height of 200 feet 
the tower of Ivan Yaliki, with its golden ball and 
cross, with the belfry tower adjoining, the two being- 
connected by a gallery in which there hangs a huge 
bell of great weight, accompanied by no less than fifty 
others, tier above tier, of all sizes and tones, the 
work of Boris Godonnoff in the year 1600. It serves 
as the belfry for all the Kremlin churches, and 
indeed, when the great bell sounds, it is the signal for 
all the church bells of Moscow. At the foot of this 
tower lies the enormous bell called Tzar Kolokol, 
cast by the Empress Anne, with the piece broken out 
of its lip when it fell. It is now set on a stone 
pedestal, five feet high from the ground. The broken 
piece seemed about six feet in height, and at least 
two feet thick at the thickest part. The height of 
the bell itself seemed to be about twenty feet. 

Still turning to the right, I came upon theChoudoff 
Monastery, which is at present the official residence of 
the Metropolitan, who is always Archimandrite of this 
as well as of the Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius, sixty 
versts off. Here are preserved the relics of Joannovich 
Donskoi ; and here in 1812 Napoleon's staff was 
quartered. Beyond is the Church of the Annunciation ; 



428 First Vieiv of Moscow. 



and still to the east, is the Convent of the Ascension, 
founded in 1389 by the Grand Princess Eudocia, after 
the death of her husband, into which she herself retired, 
and in which she died. From that time till the reign 
of Peter, this church of the Ascension became the 
burying-place of all the Grand Princesses and Tsarit- 
zars, and their daughters, as the Cathedral of the 
Archangel was the place of burial for Grand Princes 
and Tsars, and the Cathedral of the Assumption for 
the Metropolitans and Patriarchs. Lastly, in the great 
place, beyond the gates of St. Saviour which lead out 
of the Kremlin, and under which no one passes without 
uncovering his head, towers over the battlements of 
the Kremlin the strange Cathedral of the Protection 
of our Lady, better known by the name of St. Basil, 
and built by John IV. as an offering of thanksgiving, 
in memorial of his conquest of the Tartar city and 
kingdom of Kazan. 

Such was my first view of Moscow and the Kremlin. 
It is a city of vast extent, the surface broken into 
a number of undulating hills. The ground-plan some- 
what resembles a spider's web, having two masses of 
building, the Kremlin and the Kitai Gorod (both 
encircled with walls) in the centre, with a number of 
main streets running out as radii from them, and 
intersected at various distances by narrower circular 



First View of Moscow. 429 

streets or alleys, as well as by two boulevards, at a 
distance of a mile, and a mile and a half, from the 
Kremlin. And lastly, beyond the suburbs, at irregular 
distances of from one to two miles from the outer 
boulevard, is a barrier or mound which runs round the 
whole circumference of the city. The river Moskva, 
which first enters within this outer barrier from the 
west, soon takes a sudden turn, and runs out again 
beyond the barrier to the south-west ; and then returns 
flowing to the N.N.E., and enclosing a long loop or 
bend till it reaches the bridge at the foot of the 
Kremlin; then it turns down again, passing another 
bridge and flowing S.E. and S.W., so as to enclose 
another loop or tongue of land parallel to the former, 
but broader. 1 * * * 

The city certainly has no great show of antiquity. 
Most of the buildings are of brick and stucco,, the 
Kremlin and the churches alone remaining as they 
were before the conflagration consequent on the French 
invasion. Still, the varied character of the surface 
especially to the E and N.E, the great extent of waste 
ground, enclosed among the buildings and intersected by 
no fewer than six lesser streams, and comprising even 
lakes, groves, fields, and gardens, the constant recur- 
rence of dead walls and courts before the houses, 
joined to the peculiarity of narrow circular alleys, and 
1 Here is a gap in the MSS. 



430 First View of Moscow. 



all intermixed with green foliage and innumerable gilt 
or coloured bulbs, and domes, and towers, produce a 
tout-ensemble highly Oriental and picturesque. 

The Kremlin itself in the centre, with the Kitai 
Gorod on the East of it, is the most picturesque object 
of all. It is a town in itself, a hill rising steeply from 
the river, enclosed on its north by a vast place, to which 
the chief streets converge, and where the moat once 
was, by public walks and gardens. On north, east, 
south, and west, strong Gothic-looking, crenelated walls 
surround it, with gates opening into the city on the four 
sides, each between two massive towers, and there are 
eight other massive, lofty towers at intervals besides. 
Especially striking is the view from the south. A 
passenger who approaches the city sees before him the 
steep Kremlin hill rising out of the river, with two 
circles of walls and towers traversing it, and separated 
by green slopes, and then the hill-top covered with 
churches, monasteries and palaces, with towers, bulbs, 
pinnacles, domes, without number, and of every variety 
of colour ; some bright blue with stars of gold, some 
green, sqme red, others with stripes of brown, or red, 
green, yellow together, or mottled with brown, or sil- 
vered over ; many gilt, and, as it is said, with ducat 
gold, and each bulb having above it a cross fixed with 
chains, gilt and flashing in the sun. 



CHAPTER XCVIL 
The Cathedral of the Assumption. 

UT to return. The chief church within the Krem- 
lin is the Cathedral of the Assumption, and to it 
I made my way on that Tuesday morning. It presents 
on the outside the appearance of a solid mass of build- 
ing surmounted by five great bulbous domes all gilt, 
that in the centre being larger and higher than the 
others. The walls above are plain white, only painted 
under the curves of the roof with figures, and round 
about and over the archways of the doors and porches. 
The upper windows, as in all the old churches, are very 
narrow and long, with rounded tops, and look well 
enough, but the lower ones have their tops squared. 
To the summit of the highest cupola is fifty-three 
archines ; * the width is thirty-five. 

I found the church door open, and went in ; and 
there I saw the great coffins or tombs of the metro- 
politans and patriarchs, which I have already spoken 
of, lying upon and above the pavement, nearly all round 
1 [Au archine is twenty-eight English inches.] 



4 3 2 The Cathedral of the A ssumption . 

and against the wall, the feet towards the centre of the 
church. Each was protected by a light iron railing, on 
which one might lean over, and read the inscription, fixed 
on a silver plate, raised aslant over the breast, on the 
carpet or pall which lies upon the old velvet covering. 

In the north-western corner lies the thirty-first of 
these metropolitans, St. Jonah, who was contemporary 
with the fall of Constantinople, and was the first in the 
line of Russian consecrations, and the last who bore the 
title of Metropolitan of Kieff. There was a sort of 
recess under an arch about breast high, with a step or 
two before it, and there was a monk, as if guarding the 
sacred relics. They were partially uncovered, so that 
under the gorgeous upper pall I saw a portion of the 
saint's hand, which at first I did not distinguish from 
the dark and faded carpet which covered all the rest. 
The sixth patriarch, Nicon, lies at New Jerusalem. 

This cathedral is not large like our western cathedrals, 
nor like the church of St. Sophia at Constantinople, 
from which in some respects the Russian churches were 
imitated. But the five domes are all open to the top, 
and are supported and divided from each other by 
four gigantic plain round columns. All looked very 
dark, and in a manner Egyptian. The Iconostasis, 
which separates the sanctuary from the body of the 
church is an immense screen covered with five tiers of 
figures or pictures of saints. The four uppermost of 



The Cathedral of the Assumption. 433 

these are of a very dark brown tinge, only bordered 
round with gilding ; they reach even to the very roof ; 
and three out of the four rows of pictures are of 
colossal height. But below all these, the fourth and 
fifth row which reach down to the ground, a depth of 
about fourteen feet, have their whole surface sheeted 
with gold, so that only the faces and hands of the 
figures appear through. The gates in like manner, both 
the double or royal doors in the centre of the screen 
before the altar, and the two smaller side doors on the 
north and south of them, were all sheeted over with 
gold, the royal doors themselves being of solid silver 
gilt. The huge columns in the middle of the church 
were encased in square sheetings and ornaments of gold 
up to the height of about 14 feet, so as to match with 
the lower tier of figures on the screen. Also there were 
huge silver lamps hanging all along the Iconostasis 
across the church ; and, below the solea, four immense 
chandeliers of solid silver hanging in the centre of the 
church ; and two standing candelabra perhaps six feet 
high, with platforms round the central wax light on 
each for the tapers which the devotion of the people 
might light there. Nevertheless all this did not over- 
come the dark shade of the pictures above, and of the 
upper part of the pillars, and of the walls and roofs, 
which are painted in the same style, so that not one 
inch of bare stone or wood is to be seen. There is a 

Ff 



434 The Cathedral of the Assumption. 

latticed closet with a canopy of old ornamental work 
near to the northern doors of the church, and to the 
northern side of the sanctuary, which was for the 
members of the Tsarish or Imperial family. Against 
the south central pillar under the dome, and looking 
towards the Iconostasis, there is a very rich and ele- 
vated stand and seat for the Patriarch, and against the 
northern pillar parallel with it a much plainer and 
humbler one for the Tsar or Emperor with the chair of 
Vladimir Monomachus. 

It is said that when Peter the Great had long kept 
the Patriarchal see vacant, and had in fact resolved 
upon the institution of the present Synod in the room 
of the patriarchate, he was one day reminded of his 
duty in this Church of the Assumption by Stephen 
Yavonky, Metropolitan of Eiazan, and guardian of the 
patriarchal see during the vacancy. This prelate, 
pointing to the patriarchal chair, remarked that " his 
Majesty might as well have it broken up and removed, 
if no one were to sit in it ;" to which Peter replied, 
" That chair is not for Stephen to sit on ; but neither 
is it for Peter to break." Thinking of this story, 
when one day I was revisiting this church, my eye fell 
upon a man kneeling at the tomb of the Patriarch 
Philaret Niketich, his hands clasped, his face buried 
in them, and resting upon the rail which protects the 
coffin, apparently absorbed in some deep feeling. What 



The Cathedral of the Assumption. 435 

was the thought which the tomb of the old patriarch 
excited in him ? Was it not loyalty to the past elicited 
by the place in which he was praying 1 Yes, surely, 
and my imagination suggested for him such thoughts 
as these : the man is praying to God, perhaps for the 
secular government of his country, that it may repent 
of having withdrawn itself so far from the advice and 
blessing of the Church ; that it may publicly retract the 
unhallowed assumptions made by Peter ; that it may 
return from its eager pursuit after the infidel civiliza- 
tion of the West, and replace itself in that attitude of 
filial affection and reverence towards the hierarchy it 
once exhibited under the Tsar Michael, the first of the 
Komanoffs, and son of the great Patriarch Philaret ? 
Or again, may it be that he is confessing and deploring 
that sinful jealousy which moved the Eussian nobility 
to urge or force their sovereigns in former times to 
strip the Church of her worldly property, and to break 
her power, without perceiving that they were thereby 
destroying that spiritual balance and check which alone 
secured the Tsar from being a mere despot, or from 
being a mere representative of base popular appetite or 
interest, so that the nobles might neither be slaves 
and tools on the one hand, nor masters of their sovereign 
under the hypocritical name of his ministers on the 
other. 

pf 2 



CHAPTER XCVI1I. 
The Patriarchal Hall and Vestry. 

11 /TAY 26 [N.S.]. A little after eight a.m. I called 
-L*-*- on the Protopresbyter of the Assumption 
Sobor, to whom I had a letter of introduction. He 
took me from his house, by the stone bridge which 
divides the Kremlin gardens, to see the churches in the 
Kremlin. As we were walking, he asked the usual 
questions : " Of what church are you; is it the Epis- 
copal]" "It does not so call itself." "Is it the 
Presbyterian 1 " " No, the Presbyterians are Cal- 
vinists." "Then you are Lutheran?" "No, if our 
Church were Lutheran, she would no longer be Apos- 
tolic." " What office have you 1 " " I am a deacon." 
"A deacon 1 then do you believe in the Mystery of 
Ordination ? Certainly, the Lutherans are not Apos- 
tolical, for they have only two Mysteries." 

By this time we had come into the cathedral ; they 
were finishing the Liturgy, being earlier than usual, 
seemingly, because they were expecting the Emperor, 



The Patriarchal Hall and Vestry. 437 

with his son and daughter-in-law. Some way behind 
the altar were three crosses, two small ones of 
crystal, the centre one of metal, large and very rich, 
and brought, the Protopope said, from Cherson. He 
said that in 1812 the French had plundered the 
churches of nearly all the gold and silver which had 
not been removed to Troitza ; and a great deal of the 
gold which I saw was new ; he then presented me to 
the Archimandrite, who had joined us, and retired. 
This ecclesiastic pointed out to me the jewelled crown 
and other ornaments of the Icon of the Blessed Virgin 
of Vladimir to the left of the royal doors, and said 
that they were valued at above 10,OOOZ. He then 
showed me the relics of St. Philip [1565], and on being 
asked whether I might salute them, he hesitated, and 
said, " I don't know : of what religion are you ?" " Of 
the orthodox Catholic and Apostolic faith and religion," 
I answered. He replied, " If you have a good reason 
for desiring it, you may : it is not forbidden, but it 
must be another day, after service, for the monk who 
attends them is not now present." Pointing to the 
shrine of St. Jonah, and the huge silver candelabrum 
standing before it, he said, " The French could not 
carry off that ; they were struck with blindness ; the 
Saint defended his shrine by his prayers." A minute 
or two after, thinking I was a Roman Catholic, he 
said, "The Latin is the same Church with ours; we 



438 The Patriarchal 



have one and the same faith and religion." Alluding 
apparently to the terms on which the Uniats were sepa- 
rated from Russia and have since returned, he said, 
" One may say that there are but two points of difference 
between the Churches, the Procession and the Papal 
Headship ; concerning the Procession, the Fathers dis- 
puted sharply in old times, but they did not for a long 
while break the unity of the Church, notwithstanding. 
Ah ! Charity is all in all ! " 

Then he showed me the Churches of the Archangel 
and of the Annunciation, and then, passing through 
the Assumption again, came to a stone staircase, built 
by the Patriarch Mcon, in 1665, and leading up to 
the Patriarchal (now Synodal) Hall, vestry, and 
library. First he showed me the hall, where the holy 
chrism is boiled, on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday 
in Passion Week, previously to its being consecrated 
by the Metropolitan in the Church of the Assumption. 
Here, formerly, Synods were held ; and here the 
Russian Patriarchs received the Tsars, and the Prelates 
of the Eastern Church. Here it was that Mcon was 
called to stand his trial before the Greek Patriarch. 
From this hall we went up by a narrow stair to the 
Patriarchal vestry, where a monk always remains in 
charge of its precious contents, and the library ; these 
occupy two small rooms, the former being Eicon's 
refectory, the latter his oratory. At the entrance of 



Hall and Vestry. 439 



the vestry hung the Saccos of St. Peter, the first 
Metropolitan who died at Moscow, and said to be of 
the date of the Sixth Ecumenical Council (A.D. 680). 
It is much faded, but I could still trace the cross and 
figures ; a vestment of the Patriarch Mcon, of the old 
form, with an Icon in pearls on the front. Round the 
chamber hung vestments of all the Metropolitans from 
Theognostes and the Patriarchs after them, down to 
Adrian (A.D. 1328 1690). Rich and magnificent as 
they were, there were none to be compared to those of 
Nicon, especially those which were presented to him 
by the Tsar Alexis Michaelovich. One of these is so 
laden with precious stones and pearls, that it weighs 
more than a pood (36 Ibs.). Equally remarkable for 
costliness and splendour are the mitres, staffs, and 
Panagias of the same Patriarch, while the specimens 
of his ordinary clothing preserved here are of the 
plainest and coarsest kind, and are identified as his 
only by their great length. The most curious vest- 
ment is one brought from Constantinople, by the 
Metropolitan, Photius, embroidered with 70,000 grains 
of seed pearl, and having upon it likenesses of the 
Emperor John Paleologus, and his Empress, Anna, 
sister to the Grand Prince, Basil Dmetriavich, of Basil 
himself, the Metropolitan Photius, and the Patriarch 
Nicon. Round this vestment is worked, in letters of 
gold, the whole Creed in Greek, being so exact that it 



44-O The Patriarchal Vestry and Sacristy. 

served Nicon afterwards as a standard by which to 
correct certain variations which had crept into the 
Russian translation. 

The further chamber is neatly fitted up with cases 
all round the walls for books and MSS. From the 
middle of the chamber rose a pyramid of steps, in a 
square form, like the stands in a greenhouse. It was 
covered with a profusion of plate which once belonged 
to the household of the Patriarchs, the gifts of various 
sovereigns. The lower rows consist of huge silver 
amphorce, containing the Holy Chrism, set four on 
each side, sixteen in all, gilt within. Also there was 
a very rich alabaster vase, in which the Chrism still 
remaining over in each consecration is preserved. 
The Holy Chrism is made only here and at Kieff, and 
only once in three years. I noticed also a most mag- 
nificent embossed silver basin, flat, and very spacious, 
with a ewer, both for the washing of feet on Maundy 
Thursday. In a glass case I also saw some very 
ancient and valuable crosses, brought from Greece, 
and inclosing relics. Very minute portions are taken 
and imbedded in wax, and worked into all new 
antiniinsia, or corporals. Here, too, is the Panagia, or 
pectoral ornament of the Metropolitan, St. Peter, and 
the Ring, given to the Metropolitan, St. Alexis, by the 
Tartar Khan Chanibak, for obtaining by his prayers 
the miraculous recovery of his wife, Taidoula, &c., &c 



CHAPTER XCIX. 
The Patriarchal Library. 

\ I iHE original nucleus of what is now the Patri- 
"" archal Library, was a Greek MS., "brought 
by Sophia from Greece and Italy, when she became 
the wife of John III., Basilivich. The richness of it 
is said to have been such as to strike with amazement 
the learned Greek Maximus, sent for from Mount 
Athos, by Basil, the son of Sophia, to sort and arrange 
the MSS. To this collection was added, afterwards, 
another, made by the Patriarch Nicon, who sent the 
monk Arsenius Souchanoff to Mount Athos, and to 
the East, with directions to search all the monasteries, 
and to bring back whatever he could procure in the 
way of valuable books and MSS. Souchanoff accord- 
ingly collected as many as 500 Greek books from 
Mount Athos, and received from the Greek Patriarchs 
an addition of 200 more. It is to be regretted, 
indeed, that much has been lost, and that what 
remains has never yet been systematically arranged ; 



442 Patriarchal Library. 

but still enough remains to constitute one of the 
richest collections known; and it is said that when 
the MSS. were catalogued by Professor Mattei, he 
showed an astonishment not unlike that of Maximus, 
at the rarity and number of the treasures before him. 
It may not be out of place here to acknowledge the 
liberality and courtesy with which a collation of some 
MSS. of St. Chrysostom has recently been supplied 
from this library to certain members of the University 
of Oxford, the collators, M. M. Kyriakoif and another, 
declining to receive anything else for their trouble than 
a copy of the New Edition of that particular work of 
St. Chrysostom whenever it shall appear. 



CHAPTER C. 

Other Treasures of the Patriarchal and other 
Churches. 

A FTER repassing into the hall, the Archiman- 
^"*- drite showed me the Church or Chapel, which 
was attached to the Patriarchal Lodgings. It ad- 
joins the hall, and in passing the hall, if I remember 
rightly, I saw the huge vessels used for the mixing 
and boiling of the Holy Chrism, viz. a tun of silver, 
for mixing it, weighing 8 poods 1 191bs., besides Gibs. 
36 zolotniks of gold with which it is gilded. The 
cover of this tun, on the top of which there is a repre- 
sentation of Samuel anointing Saul, weighs besides 
2 poods 35 Ibs. of silver, and is gilt with 4 zol. of gold. 
Then there were two great vessels or cauldrons for 
boiling the chrism, weighing each about 5 poods, 24 Ibs. 
of silver, and gilt with 4 Ibs. each of gold. In all about 
780 Ibs. of silver avoirdupois, and 19 Ibs. of gold. 

1 [A pood = 40 pounds, or 36 Ibs. avoirdupois ; a zolotnik = 
somewhat less than 2 drams avoirdupois.] 



Additional Treasures. 



I pass over much that I saw in the Patriarchal 
Church, and in the Church of the .Archangel, where 
Grand Princes and Tsars were buried. There they 
showed me the shrine of Demetrius, the last of the line 
of Ruric, who was murdered at the age of eight years. 
It was most richly adorned and palled with a fringe of 
the Imperial or Tsarish ermine. They also showed me 
the two tombs of the brothers John and Theodore 
Alexiavich, tombs remarkable for the incredible rich- 
ness of their palls or coverings, wrought by their sister 
the Empress Elizabeth. They were literally covered 
with studs of solid silver, pearls, and huge emeralds, 
one of which the monk said was worth at least 25,000 
roubles (5000Z.). There was gold and pearls without 
end. The royal doors seemed to be of sheets of solid 
gold. This church is rather a burying-place of the 
Tsars than a place for public worship. 



CHAPTER CI. 

The Emperor, with his Son and Heir and 
Daughter-in-law. 

A LSO, there is much to be told of the old Tartar 
"^ *" palace, which was built upon the site of th e former 
lodging of the Metropolitans, and contained in it seven 
small churches, which formed quite a labyrinth. These 
the Archimandrite showed me, and then conducted me 
by a narrow passage and staircase straight down 
opposite to the western gate of the Cathedral of the 
Assumption, just at the moment that the Emperor with 
his son and daughter-in-law drove up, and, alighting, 
walked by a platform from the Church of the Arch- 
angel to the southern door of the Assumption, where 
they were received by the Metropolitan and clergy with 
the cross and holy water. 

The enthusiasm of the multitude was unbounded ; 
and certainly, after what I then witnessed, I could not 
but understand the feeling of those Russians, who 
wonder how their sovereigns can endure to labour for 
that which satisfieth not at Petersburg, when they 



446 The Emperor, with his Son and Sons Bride. 

might reign in the hearts of Christians at Moscow. 
They assisted with all their suite at the usual prayers, 
and, after they left the church, there followed repeated 
roarings of cannon, and the ringing of bells of every size 
and tone down to nightfall. The heir-apparent, who 
came that day in state with his bride, had himself been 
baptized in infancy within the precincts of the Kremlin, 
in the Church of the Annunciation, in the Choudoff 
monastery, from which at a later hour I saw the 
Metropolitan then come across the square to receive 
him. 



CHAPTER CIL 
The Choudoff Monastery. 

OME days after I was shown over the Choudoff 
Monastery. The relics of St. Alexis, its 
founder, are preserved in a silver shrine. There was a 
rich pall over them, and a monk standing by with a 
stole over his black dress, and his staff in his hand. 
This was on the morning of June 7 [N.S.]. Over- 
head was a picture of the Saint as he appeared before 
Demetrius Donskoi, exhorting him to put his trust in God 
in the approaching conflict with Mamai, the Mongol. 
The doors of the Sanctuary are of silver. In the vestry 
is preserved a copy of the New Testament, written by 
St. Alexis with his own hand very beautifully on 
parchment, and much worn, with a few words of Arch- 
bishop Platen on the first leaf. There were also, as 
elsewhere, some most splendidly jewelled robes and 
mitres ; one set in particular presented by the Emperor 
Paul to the Metropolitan Platon, and another given by 
a noble lady still living to the present Metropolitan. 



448 The Choudoff Monastery. 

In this monastery, Isidore, the thirtieth Metro- 
politan, was confined, on his return from the Council 
of Florence ; and here Gregory Otrepieff, the Pseudo- 
Demetrius, planned his enterprise which had almost 
subjected Russia to the Poles. 



CHAPTER C1IL 
St. Sergius. 

OEEGTUS, the founder and special saint and patron 
**-* of the Troitsa or Trinity Monastery, flourished 
in the fourteenth century, 1 and it may be right to pre- 
face this visit to his great Lavra with some pages from 
Mouravieff's "Church History," and Mr. Blackmore's 
notes upon it, by way of introducing to the reader both 
the Holy Hermit and his home. 

" With the name of Sergius," says Mouravieff, p. 61, 
" a new monastic world opens itself in the north. The 
commencement of his lonely hermitage in the woods 
near Moscow is a point of as much importance in our 
history as the excavation of the caves of Anthony on 
the banks of the Dnieper; for he was destined to 
divide with Anthony the glory of having been the 
Father of monasticism in Eussia. Sergius was born at 
Eostoff ; when yet quite young he left the house of his 
parents, and, together with his brother Steven, settled 
1 [Vide supra, pp. 183, 184.] 



4 SO St. Sergius. 



himself in the thick woods in the neighbourhood of 
Eadonege, where his brother left him. In this wild 
solitude he resisted all manner of temptations, and 
lived among the wild beasts of the forest, until the 
report of his holy life drew disciples around him. He 
built by his own labour in the midst of the forest a 
wooden church, with the title of the Source of Life, the 
ever blessed Trinity, which has since grown into that 
glorious Lavra, whose destiny has become inseparable 
from the destinies of the capital, and from whence on 
so many occasions the salvation of all Russia has 
proceeded. 

" Prelates and princes applied to Sergius for teachers, 
who, trained by him to perfection, might in turn by 
their good example be of like service to others ; and 
thus a second era and development of monasticism 
began, and in the fulness of its light our unhappy 
country, which had been suffering so long under the 
plague of the Tartars, revived. At the very moment 
of the decisive victory upon the Don, gained over 
the Mongols, which first shook their empire in Russia, 
the aged saint was supporting Demetrius by his 
prayers. 

" He died at an extreme old age, amid the blessings 
of his contemporaries, which were soon changed into 
prayers for his intercession when his remains were 
found uncorrupted. They were found by his disciple 



St. Sergtiis. 451 



Mcon, as he was building the stone church of the Holy 
Trinity, and were deposited in it when built as a sup- 
port and strength to the Lavra, which from that time 
forth was never touched by so much as one of those 
calamities which fell upon the neighbouring capital." 

Mr. Blackmore adds : " The Troitza Monastery is 
even to the present day the richest and the most cele- 
brated of all the religious houses in Russia. It is said 
to have possessed at one time 106,000 male peasants or 
serfs, with the land to which they were attached. It 
once withstood the attacks of a Polish army of 30,000 
men for sixteen months. It is surrounded by a wall 
1500 yards in length, and flanked by eight towers. It 
has a belfry 290 feet high, in which there is a bell 
weighing 144,000 pounds. All the movable treasures of 
Moscow were placed here for security during the inva- 
sion of the French in 1812." 



G g 2 



CHAPTER CIV. 
Visit to the Troitsa Lavra. 

N Saturday, May 29 [N.S.], being the eve before 
"Pentecost," or " the Festival of the Holy 
Trinity," as it is called by the Easterns, I started 
at four a.m. with a letter from the Metropolitan 
Philaret, for his namesake the Archimandrite, his 
vicar, for this Troitsa, the great Trinity Lavra of St. 
Sergius, distant about sixty-four versts to the north-east 
from Moscow. I had hired a triska, which is a light 
waggon drawn by three horses, something resembling 
a boat with a little arch over the head and over the 
feet. The horses had all bells ; but the middle one 
only was in shafts, the other two running loose on 
either side. The driver sits on a sacking stretched on 
cords over the small arch in front. The traveller sits 
or lies on a quantity of hay with which the cradle is 
nearly filled. The road was good enough for the 
greater part of the way ; but this sort of vehicle, 
having no springs, no one ought to use it, as I then 
did ignorantly, without providing himself with a mat- 



Visit to the Troitsa Lavra. 453 

tress or feather-bed, and tying a sash or shawl tightly 
round his body, else he will run a risk of being jarred 
and shaken almost to pieces. We stopped about ten 
or eleven o'clock to feed the horses, and then pro- 
ceeded ; but towards the end of the journey we had to 
leave our good road, for a mere cart-rut over a common 
or waste. The country looked much better than any- 
thing between Petersburg and Moscow, showing a 
good deal of cultivated land and hills and dales and 
wood, and occasionally green meadows. Still the 
general appearance was flat, and the views very ex- 
tensive, but improving as we approached the Lavra. 
We arrived at length at the village, or town, of about 
3000 souls, which partly surrounds it, and saw before us 
a long line of lofty, stern, military-looking wall, with 
battlements and gothic-looking towers at intervals, and 
narrow loopholes in the body of the wall below. It 
rose boldly from the undulating and broken ground ; 
and above the wall there showed themselves five great 
cupolas four green and one in the centre gilt, belong- 
ing, as I afterwards found, to a church built after that 
of the Assumption at Moscow by John the Terrible. 
Adjoining these a bell-tower, handsomely built, of four 
or five stages, and covered with a golden bulb, rose, I 
should think, to a height of 300 feet, and lower down 
a host of lesser bulbs and towers of the numerous 
churches or chapels contained within the precincts. 



454 Visit to the Troitsa Lavra. 

There were moreover several churches in the vil- 
lage and neighbourhood, and a great caravanserie 
outside the walls of the convent for the reception of 
pilgrims, of whom we had passed many groups along 
the whole line of our road. Many of them were going 
towards Troitsa, as indeed was natural to expect on 
the eve of the anniversary, and that so great a 
festival ; but there were also great numbers who ap- 
peared to be returning from it. In all there were, I 
should think, several thousands, and quite as many 
women as men. They seemed to wear a peculiar dress 
of a whitish-brown colour, the head, chin, and face 
bound and muffled up in a handkerchief, a jacket or 
smock covering the body and reaching barely to the 
knees, while the legs were clad in wrappers, with 
either bare feet, or else shoes of bark, or sandals. 
Many groups we had passed reclining in the shade of 
trees and resting, others walking in a body, others 
scattered irregularly in long lines twos and threes, and 
single stragglers at intervals. When we reached the 
Lavra, we stopped at the caravanserie, where a lay 
brother of the convent in a cassock let me into an 
empty room, and gave me the key. Afterwards I went 
out to call upon the Archimandrite-Vicar, Antonius, 
and delivered to him a letter from the Metropolitan, 
who is himself the Archimandrite of the Lavra. 

The outer gates were thronged with a dense crowd 



Visit to the Troitsa Lavra. 45 5 

of peasants, as were also the courts of the monas- 
tery within, and the avenues of lime-trees, and the 
porches and approaches of all the churches. Many 
of them asked alms, and there sat along the broad 
walk and avenues long lines of beggars on either side, 
many with their hats or caps in their laps, showing in 
the crowns all that they had received ; and some had a 
good heap of copper, nor did it seem to strike them 
that having received so much they were any the less 
likely for showing it to receive more. One man, 
whose heap seemed one of the largest, being asked to 
give change for a piece of silver and keep himself a 
halfpenny, gave the change immediately with abund- 
ance of thanks. Some, too, assisted their less fortunate 
brethren, who were blind, to beg, or turned attention 
towards them in a very amiable manner. All the pil- 
grims who had come from any distance had a staff in 
their hands and a wallet over their shoulders ; and many, 
they said, had walked hither from very distant provinces 
some even from Siberia. The principal church for 
antiquity and sanctity is not that which most strikes a 
stranger on first entering (because the largest and stand- 
ing in the centre of the precinct, with an area of grass 
and limes around it), but another, the Church of the 
Holy Trinity, which stands in the north-west corner, 
with two gilded cupolas. The bells of the convent were 
sounding as the triska drove up to the hostel ; and by 



456 Visit to the Troitsa Lavra. 



the time that the Archimandrite, Antonius, had read 
the Metropolitan's letter and introduced me to the 
Archimandrite-Rector of the Academy, with whom I 
was to lodge, he said it was time to go to the church 
for the Lesser Vespers, it being then about three o'clock. 
Accordingly we went into the Church of the Holy 
Trinity, the crowd making way and kissing his hand, 
and asking his blessing all the way. 



CHAPTER CV. 

The feast of the Holy Trinity. The Trinity 
Church. The Anniversary Service. 

"1 PAYING entered the church at the northern 
-- door, we passed into the Protliesis, and round 
the altar to the Diaconicum, or vestry, on the south 
side, where I stood under the arch hetween the 
diaconicum and the sanctuary, the Archimandrite 
taking his place against the Iconostasis, in a chair, and 
a small carpet set for him immediately before the 
royal doors, on the south side. There is his place to 
stand, or sit, when he does not officiate. In the place 
answering to it on the other side of the royal doors, 
there was an ex-bishop of Ekaterinoslav, who, from 
age and blindness, has obtained permission to retire 
from his see, and prepare for death in this convent. 

As for the appearance presented by the church of 
the Trinity, it had an iconostasis, like those of the 
Moscow churches, with four upper tiers of icons of 
saints, large, long, dark pictures bordered with gold, 



45 8 Church of the Holy Trinity 

i 

besides the lower row above the steps of the solea, 

and on the doors, which were all over gold, or silver 
gilt, except the faces and hands, as was also the screen 
itself and its ornaments. At the south end of the 
solea, against the wall of the church, was a silver 
shrine, or grotto, containing the relics of St. Sergius, 
and on the top of the iconostasis, over the royal doors, 
a cross. Lamps of solid silver, a lesser and a larger 
one alternately, but all very large, with chains and 
huge wax lights, were hanging one before each icon, 
all the length of the solea, from branches bending out 
from above the first story of the iconostasis : two 
magnificent silver candelabra stood on the floor in 
front of the door ; and there were again other massive 
lamps, like those along the solea, attached to the two 
pillars and hanging from them, and from the central 
dome. The pillars being very bulky, and also high, 
and only two in number, the church looks small, and 
too lofty for its other dimensions. Standing in front 
of the sanctuary, one looks up into the chief central 
dome, and two lesser concavities. The whole of the 
walls and roof, the pillars, the arches, and the cupola s 
themselves, within and above, were painted in fresco, 
with gilding, beginning from where the gold sheathing 
of the pillars terminates, about twelve feet or more 
from the ground. The ambo juts out from the solea, 
as in all the churches here, and within the royal doors 



and Anniversary Service. 459 

and the veil is a very elegant massive tabernacle, or 
canopy, raised on four twisted columns over the altar, 
all of solid silver. The altar itself was a square, rather 
higher than usual, and had a covering of light silk, 
with beautiful festoons of grapes and flowers on each 
side. A very small gospel, set upright, the cross laid 
on one side, the antimense, and a larger gospel, were 
all the furniture upon it, covered over with a loose 
outer covering or carpet, before and after service. 
Immediately behind the silver canopy, and so adjoining 
the back of the altar, was a silver stand, or table, with 
an ornamented tabernacle, or artophorion, upon it, of 
the same material, and a single lamp, and behind that, 
again, a tree rising from the ground, in dead silver, 
solid, having seven branches, terminating in calices 
and coloured glass lamps of four colours ; blue, green, 
red, and yellow, like flowers rising out of them, and 
culminating towards the seventh, which was in the 
centre, as to an apex. 

The walls of the sanctuary, at least six feet thick, are 
covered all over with bishops and saints in fresco. The 
windows were all of the same form, as are also still 
those of the larger and more recent Church of the 
Assumption, but when the church was last restored, at 
the end of the last, or beginning of the present cen- 
tury, some of the lower windows had their tops 
squared. However, none of them have the square 



460 Chtirch of the Holy Trinity 

sash window-frames and glazing, so common at 
Petersburg, but the glazing is with diamond-shaped 
panes, and lead or iron to hold them. There is a 
circular seat running round the apse with the metro- 
politan's throne, or chair, rising one step above it, in 
the centre, and the fans, or wings of cherubim, are 
fixed on either side of it. After the Lesser Vespers, 
the Archimandrite gave me a cup of tea, but without 
offering bread or anything else to eat. 

At six p.m. we went to the Vigil Service, which lasted 
till near eleven. At first there was only the officiating 
priest, whose turn it was, bareheaded, in epitraclielion 
(stole) and mantle, to say the secret prayers as usual 
on the solea during Psalm civ., and the Archimandrite- 
Vicar took the chief place in front of the altar in a 
most splendid mitre covered with pearls and jewels. 
When all was over the Archimandrite gave me in 
charge to the Rector of the Spiritual Academy, now 
Bishop of Riga, with whom I was to lodge. It 
was a fine summer night, and we passed out from 
among the lights and a multitude of people, and crossed 
to the opposite (east) side of the vast silent precinct of 
the monastery with its many massive buildings and 
projecting shadows. The Academy, which was once a 
palace for the reception of the Tsars when they came 
here, occupies the east side of the precinct, with a garden 
laid out with walks and hedges before it, where all 



and Anniversary Service. 461 

seemed already asleep. It was now nearly midnight, 
and to one who had been standing above five hours, 
and before that had been jolting in a vehicle without 
springs under a hot sun over hard ground, part of 
the way a mere rough track, since four o'clock in the 
morning, it was no unpleasant thing to be able to lie 
down. 1 

The next morning, May 30, at eight o'clock, amid 
a perfect roar or thunder of bells, so that one could not 
hear a word said out of doors, and scarcely in, we went 
to the Liturgy. The church was stuck all over with 
green boughs and portions of trees, as were also all the 
rooms of the monastery and the academy, and all the 
congregation held branches of green in their hands, 
in allusion, it was said, to the tree under which 
Abraham entertained his three Spiritual Guests. After 
the hours had been read, the Bishop of Ekaterinoslav, 
who officiated, having been robed on his platform, 
the Archimandrite-Vicar and the Archimandrite -Rec- 
tor of the Academy and some six or eight other 
priest-monks and deacons having vested within the 
iconostasis, went first two and two, and stood in two 
lines between the Bishop's ambo and the royal 
doors. They were in their high black caps, and cowls 

1 [It is incidentally mentioned afterwards that, before parting 
for the night, the Archimandrite gave Mr. Palmer a good-sized 
piece of bread.] 



462 The Anniversary Service at the Troitsa. 

falling down upon splendid dark red copes, with gold or 
yellow sticliaria under them, the two Archimandrites 
and the Bishop wearing most richly-jewelled mitres. 
Then came in one after another on different sides the 
Archimandrites, to begin the Liturgy, and stood north 
and south of the altar. After the communion, when 
they took the blest bread to those who had commu- 
nicated, the Archimandrites sent me one of the five 
Prosphorae, from which the Oblation and the Com- 
memoration particles had been taken ; it was that of 
the Blessed Virgin. After the conclusion of the 
Liturgy, a clerk brought in a great dishful of bunches 
of flowers, and gave a bunch to each of them in 
order, which they held in their hands, others being laid 
all round the altar. Then the bells sounded again, 
and they began None and Vespers, with remarkable 
kneelings and long prayers, said westward towards 
the people at three several times, for the outpouring of 
the Holy Spirit on the living and for the departed. 
This has been the custom now for many ages, and the 
Vespers were always said on this day earlier than 
usual, it being forbidden to break the fast till after they 
were concluded, on account of the solemn prayers just 
mentioned. By the present arrangement all was finished 
by noon, so as to cause no postponement of dinner, to 
which we went almost immediately on leaving the 
church. 



CHAPTER CVL 
Dinner of the Troitsa Festival. 

"Y"TTE dined that day in the great refectory or 
* * trapeza, a noble hall in size and style of 
architecture something like that of Christ Church, 
Oxford, but I think larger. It is splendidly orna- 
mented, and has segments of arches concealing the 
square tops of the windows, which were very deep in 
the wall. It forms the nave of a moderate-sized 
church named after St. Sergius himself, on the south 
side of the precinct. You go up to it from without 
by steps and pass through an open porch, and another 
covered porch, before entering it. The tables are 
arranged just as the hall of one of our own colleges, 
the high table running across at the eastern end of the 
trapeza, where it opens by doors into the church 
properly so called, so that on entering from the west, 
one looked through them straight up towards the sanc- 
tuary. At the high table, in the middle, sat the Archi- 
mandrites, the Archimandrite-Vicar as Superior present 



464 Troitsa Dinner. 

on the inner side with his back to the hall, and looking 
eastward and towards the sanctuary ; the Kector of the 
Spiritual Academy opposite to him ; the monks in holy 
orders and guests on either side of them, forty- 
four in all. On lower tables along the side walls 
were the monks who were not in orders, and proba- 
tioners ; beyond them, on other tables, the students 
of the Spiritual Academy. Before coming up we had 
looked into another large room with a table set out for 
a large number of boys, perhaps of the school kept 
within the monastery. 

On taking their seats every one crossed himself and 
bowed towards the sanctuary, then they sang the grace 
as usual. During a great part of the dinner a monk 
read at a lectern from the Life of St. Sergius. Glasses 
were set at each plate, as with us ; in the middle of 
the table were set huge silver tankards of excellent 
mead, or of beer looking like porter, and quass. Wine, 
too, was handed round. There were several soups of 
fish, hot and cold, and other dishes, all without meat. 
At the end of the dinner, the attendants, who seemed 
to be younger probationers, filled for each person a long 
glass of champagne ; and, all rising, the Polychronia 
(health, long life, and a happy reign) was sung and 
drunk to the emperor. Lastly grace was sung ad- 
mirably ; and the Archimandrite-Vicar, going round to 
the east side of the table with one or two others, waved 



Troitsa Dinner. 465 



a small piece of bread on a cloth or carpet, chanting at 
the same time, over a stand set in front of the royal 
doors, on which there was placed a silver cup of wine. 
He then put a particle into the cup, ate a particle, and 
drank a little of the wine ; then the others did the 
same, it being taken to all who were at table in order. 
They said that this was the elevation of the Panagia, 
a ceremony in honour of the Blessed Virgin. 1 

During all this time the centre of the vast hall had 
filled with a motley and picturesque crowd of both 
sexes, and all ages and conditions, for the greater part 
pilgrims and peasants, with their leg-wrappers, bark 
shoes, wallets, and staves. Part of them seemed to 
be merely looking on and admiring the hall, or in- 
terested in the singing and the Polychronium (ad 
multos annos) for the Emperor ; but a large portion 
was evidently listening to the reader, and pressed 
round the lectern to hear the Life of St. Sergius. 

Then we left the hall, and visited the kitchen and 
bakehouse, and a court whore 1500 poor strangers had 
just dined. They had consumed fifty pood of black 
bread. The monastery is bound to give refreshment 
to the number of 500 daily, if so many present them- 
selves. 

1 [" In the Greek ' Horologion,' Venice, 1838, p. 121," adds 
Mr. Palmer, " there is a very circumstantial but very legendary 
account of the origin and meaning of this custom/'] 

H h 



466 Troitsa Dinner. 



We then visited some exceedingly neat schoolrooms, 
where 140 boys from the adjacent townships received 
their education. We were told that the confiscation 
of monastery lands under Catharine II. is everywhere 
visible, even in this place, the richest of all. In many 
parts of the building there is decay, which is 
either neglected altogether, or repaired inadequately, 
for want of funds. They have also an institution for 
orphans, and a hospital. There are now forty of the 
monks in priests' orders, and fifteen deacons, and, with 
the novices and elder probationers, they make 
nearly 140 in all. In the Seminary that is, as it is 
now called, the Academy, there are 150 students, 
divided into two sections, of which the lower learn 
philosophy, as it is called, and the higher theology. 
The lower are besides chiefly occupied with languages. 
Most or all of them know German, many can read but 
none speak French; three can read English, but 
the English course since the reaction against Bible 
Societies has been discontinued. 

There are two excellent walks here round the con- 
vent on the walls, in which are two galleries roofed, 
showing the country through loopholes, on the outer 
side, and on the inner open towards the convent, which 
is three-quarters of a mile in circuit, and has eight 
towers with red roofs. It contains eight distinct 
churches. 



Troitsa Dinner. 467 



The same day, at five p.m., there being another vigil, 
as to-morrow [Whit-Monday] is the special festival of 
the Holy Spirit, we went to Lesser Yespers and Com- 
pline, and sang at Compline the canon of the Holy 
Ghost. I did not go to the full vigil service with the 
monks, but to a greatly abridged substitute for it, that is 
said in the academy for the students. The class-rooms 
and apartments for the Superiors, at least those for the 
Rector and Inspector, were large and handsomely 
ornamented, but there was nothing like personal 
luxury or indulgence. "While I was staying with 
them, there was no appearance of any meal but 
dinner ; not even bread was offered at any other time 
but only tea, and that not more than once in the 
course of the afternoon, so that we only ate once a 
day, and it may have been for that reason that the 
Archimandrite gave me such a large provision of bread 
after the vigil on Saturday. 



Hh 2 



CHAPTER CVIL 

Library of the Academy and the Theological 
Professor. 

Monday, at nine a.m., we attended Liturgy, with 
all the students and members of the academy, 
in the Church of St. Sergius, in the trapeza, where 
the monks had dined the day before. This day is the 
special festival of the Holy Spirit, but the Tuesday 
[Whit-Tuesday] is not distinguished from the other 
days of the week. For convenience sake at such times 
the academy has almost all its religious services apart 
from the monastic community. 

After the service we went into the library of the 
academy, which seems a good one, and is kept in a 
spacious room. The Professor of Ecclesiastical History, 
a layman, asked many questions about the Anglican 
Church, beginning as they all do from the questions of 
its names or titles. Especially he asked whether we had 
many books of systematic theology, and wondered at 
the answer that we had scarcely any ; which, however, 
agreed, he said, with an account given to Professor 



The L ibrary of the A cademy. 469 

Tholuck, by another Englishman, and printed in his 
periodical in 1831. He said that systematic instruc- 
tion in theology is very necessary, especially in these 
times. They pointed out to me, on various shelves, 
volumes of Bull, Cave, Beveridge, Poole, Bingham, 
and some others ; and the Kector asked if I could tell 
him anything of an English writer named Roothius, 
author of a very learned work entitled " Relliquiae 
Sacrse." " I have," said he, " a lesser publication of 
his entitled ' Opuscula,' but the other is absolutely 
necessary for me, the Synod having charged me to 
prepare the ( Lives of the Fathers,' with some notice 
of the works of each, and I have written in vain to 
Paris, Berlin, and Dresden, and have nowhere been 
able to procure it." 

Speaking of doctrine, the Archimandrite said that 
the " Orthodox Confession of Peter Mogila certainly 
was of authority in their Church before the recent 
edition, notwithstanding what some persons of rank 
might have said at random ; that they were only 
laymen, and were not to be depended on as authorities 
in such matters, that the Church of Eome had invented 
a good deal of scholastic phraseology, some of which 
had needlessly, or ignorantly, been admitted among 
themselves, but that it would be best to get rid of it ; 
and, no doubt, as learning and knowledge of the old 
Fathers improved, this would be done. They suppose 



The Professor of Ecclesiastical History. 



the Anglican Church to teach that there are two 
sacraments, neither more nor less ; that the Apocry- 
phal books were simply to be rejected ; and that, on 
the points of Prayer for the Departed, Invocation of 
the Saints, Relics and Images, the doctrine and prac- 
tice is merely negative, like that of the Lutherans and 
Calvinists. Speaking of the asperity of their present 
Forms of Reconciliation for Papists, he thought it 
had originated in the time of the Patriarch Philaret 
[1620], when they went even farther, and re-baptized 
the Latins. 



CHAPTER CVIII. 
Visit to Platan's Monastery and Sergius's Coffin. 

~TN the afternoon, about two p.m., we drove to the 
corner of a wood, belonging partly to the Lavra, 
and partly to the dependent convent and seminary of 
Bethany, founded by the Metropolitan Platon, and 
established, that is, slightly endowed by the Emperor 
Paul. We walked the rest of the way, being about a 
mile along a beautiful valley, with a lake, sometimes 
broad, sometimes like a river winding among the hills, 
now wooded with pine and birch down to the Water's 
edge, now beautifully bordered with native turf, as in 
an English park, and now a hill or rock jutting out and 
overhanging it. The ground, too, about the Lavra 
itself, I may observe, is finely thrown about and 
broken. 

We visited first the Seminary, and then the curious 
church of the hermitage, in which Platon erected a 
great hill of rock-work and moss representing Mount 
Tabor, with steep steps leading to the small platform 



47 2 Platoris Monastery 

on the summit. Here is a small sanctuary with an upper 
Church of the Transfiguration, and an icon which was 
taken from the French in 1814, and is said to have 
belonged at one time to Louis XVI. of France. The 
lower church is called that of the Resurrection of 
Lazarus, and in a grotto representing his tomb is the 
tomb of Platon himself. While we were there, a 
number of people came in, crossing themselves and 
prostrating, and touching the ground with their fore- 
heads, and then leaning over and kissing the head and 
feet of a figure of our Saviour on the cross which lay 
on the top of the tomb. In a niche or vault close 
adjoining, with a lamp burning before it, and covered 
with a carpet, there stood a long wooden coffin, in 
which St. Sergius himself was originally buried, and 
in which he lay above thirty years before the exhuma- 
tion of his relics. 

Though of such antiquity it seemed in excellent pre- 
servation, the boards being very thick, only the middle 
part under the carpet was somewhat uneven or broken. 
This was explained by the Hector's telling me that it 
came from the people biting off and carrying bits off as 
a cure for the toothache, which was a common supersti- 
tion among the peasants. 

At the moment we entered the church they were 
beginning Vespers, which they celebrated in the upper 
church as agreeing with the mysteries of the season. 



and Sergius s Coffin. 473 



It was noticed, also, that to-day there was a com- 
memoration of the Metropolitan St. Alexis, who, with 
St. Sergius, strengthened Demetrius Donskoi against 
the Tartars, 1 and wished to persuade Sergius to be his 
successor. After the Vespers and Compline, we heard 
them sing a Pannycliid in memory of the Metropolitan 
Platon, according to his last instructions. In a glazed 
frame close to his tomb in the Grotto of Lazarus hangs 
a copy of his will, with a Testamentary Address and 
Thanksgiving, an interesting and touching document. 

We next visited his apartments in the hermitage, 
which have been kept up just as he left, and are 
furnished with much taste and elegance, according to 
the fashion of that time : they said it was the English 
style. 

It was impossible not to be struck with the enchant- 
ing prospect of the lake, lawns, walks, herds, and 
corn-fields, and over all in the distance the golden 
bulbs and white towers and massive walls of the 
Lavra shining in a gleam of sun. He had evidently 
chosen the site and built these rooms and pavilion 
on purpose for this view. Nothing can well be 
imagined more beautiful. There are strawberries and 
violets in the wood, and fish in the water, and we 
saw the boys fishing, but did not see any boats upon 

1 [The decisive battle was fought on Sept. 8th, 1380. Vide 
Blackmore's "Mouravieff."] 



474 Platan's Monastery. 

it, though there is one at least belonging to the 
monastery. The students of the Academy have 
liberty during the hours of recreation to walk here ; 
only the Inspector must know, and his apartments 
in the Lavra are well placed, so as to command a 
view of the place by which they go in and out. We 
walked back as we had come, through the wood, or 
skirting it along the margin of the lake, and, on 
emerging from it, found our carriage waiting for us, 
and drove back to the Lavra. 



CHAPTER C1X. 

The Troitsa Vestry -, and lodgings of the Metro- 
politan. 

f I THE same afternoon the Archimandrite- Vicar 
-*" showed me the vestry. "We passed through 
several very strong and heavy iron doors, and saw 
several rooms full of presses, containing the robes of 
various Archimandrites, especially of the Patriarch 
loasaph, and the famous Dionysius, and many rich 
gifts of John the Terrible and other Tsars. Numbers 
of old and small icons were fixed round the tops of 
the presses. On a table in one of the rooms is a 
cabinet with the original will of the Metropolitan 
Platon ; also riches in pearls, jewels, and gold on the 
various mitres, chalices, gospels, crosiers, &c., quite 
indescribable. Among other things, in a set of altar- 
cloths and coverlets, given by Boris Godounoff, was one 
article, an Aer, 1 on which the body of our Saviour, with 
glory round His brow (as on the Siridon), was repre- 
sented by embroidery lying on the chalice with the 
asterisk over it, while two angels, bending over, were 
1 [Vid. supr. p. 186.] 



476 The Troitsa Vestry y &c. 



fanning with the wings of cherubim. A remarkable 
and instructive contrast to all the surrounding wealth 
and magnificence was presented by the robes and altar- 
service of St. Sergius himself. His phenolion (not a 
cope, but the older round cloke) was of very coarse 
plain dark cloth, not woollen but more like undressed 
hemp, darned and patched, and the sacred vessels were 
of maple wood, made, it is said, by his own hands. 

The lodgings of the Metropolitan are some very 
handsomely furnished rooms, and in them is a striking 
portrait of John the Terrible, whose fierce glaring 
countenance seemed to agree with his historical cha- 
racter, as the portraits of Henry VIII. do with Henry's. 
The domestic chapel of the apartments is small ; out- 
side, or behind them, is a terrace on to the open air, 
affording a charming view of the broken verdant and 
wooded country below ; to the right the lake and the 
Church of Bethany in the distance ; while on the left, 
and south-east, covering a slope on the Moscow road, 
is the town with its environs, houses and gardens, 
white, yellow, green and black, and occasionally red, 
and several churches with green or gilt bulbs, partly 
on a hill, partly in a valley ; while on turning a little 
round, one sees the strong crenulated walls of the 
Lavra, the domes of the chief churches, and the huge 
campanile, higher than Ivan Veliki at Moscow, with 
a larger bell in it than any other now used in Russia. 



CHAPTER CX.. 

Conversation with the Archimandrite- Rector, 
Philaret. 

UESD AT, June 1 [N. s.]. Went at nine a.m. to the 
Liturgy in the Church of the Holy Trinity. I 
dined, as yesterday, about twelve with the Rector, Phi- 
laret, and walked upon the walls, and discussed with 
him the difference between crows, rooks, and jackdaws ; 
the two last are called here by the same name (only 
lesser and greater) ; the rook does not remain all the 
winter. After Vespers I went with the Inspector to 
the church of the sick and old monks ; the chief had 
a mitre. After this the Rector gave me some tea, and 
we had some conversation on the question of the Pro- 
cession, in which I expressed my own opinion that the 
Greeks ought not to accuse us of heretical doctrine 
which we abhor. We also had a long discussion about 
Aristotle, Plato, and Socrates ; he did not do Aristotle 
anything like justice, and was only tolerably pacified 
when I allowed that he should have the last place of 
the three, but he wanted to put even Cicero above 
him, who was very little, if anything, of a philosopher 
at all. We continued talking till one a.m. 



CHAPTER CXI. 
The Abbess TcJioutchkoff. 

TTTEDKESDAY, June 2 [N.S.]. We had a call 
* ^ from the Abbess Maria Tchoutchkoff, 1 who 
had lost her husband at Borodino, and her son soon 
after. Now she has 115 nuns and novices there, and 
was godmother to the Princess of Hesse Darmstadt, 
and has been invited to meet the Grand Duke and 
Duchess here. She is a great friend of Madame 
Potemkin, from whom she heard of me, and she called 
on the Eector with a young novice, a Jewess, a great 
pet of hers. Hearing that I was here she desired to 
see me, and after a moment or two asked me whether 
I was not a Catholic. Certainly, I answered. The 
Eector interposed to explain ; I was of the Episco- 
palian Church, and not a Papist. She seemed to have 
no notion of anything but Catholics, on whom she 
looked with favour. Speaking of tolerance, Protestants 
were either Calvinists or Lutherans or heretics. I said 
i [Tid. supr. p. 322.] 



The Abbess Tchoutchkoff. 479 

I would call myself, my Church, my religion, by no 
other names than True, Orthodox, Catholic, and 
Apostolic, but I was certainly no Papist. She said, 
" Perhaps, then, you think the Church is made up of 
all Christians in general, and are for tolerance ;" a view 
she seemed to favour herself. I assured her I detested 
most cordially all such cruel charity, if charity it be, 
and not rather indifference and unbelief. She saw my 
dre?s, and said it was not the same as that of the 
Catholics. The Rector said it was more like their 
own. He was well aware of the mischief of misusing 
the term " Catholic," but so used it occasionally never- 
theless. 

At night the Rector told me that the Metropolitan 
had come, and brought word for me ; they wanted at 
Petersburg to know where I was, as letters had come 
for me from England. 



CHAPTER CX1L 

Subsequent History of the Archimandrite-Rector, 
Philaret. 

~T~UNE 3 [N.S.]. There was another subject on 
" which the Archimandrite-Rector held a con- 
troversy with me ; apparently on the morning of my 
departure ; but, before proceeding to it, I will insert 
some points in the Rector's history subsequent to this 
date, which it is pleasant to me to associate with my 
remembrances of this place. Philaret, my host, at the 
date of my visit to the Troitsa Lavra, was Rector of the 
Spiritual Academy, contained within its walls, and 
Archimandrite; he afterwards became Bishop of Riga. He 
is conspicuous for having there, in the course of a few 
years, received into the Orthodox Church as many as 
70,000 or 80,000 Lettish Lutherans. The circumstances 
under which he was appointed are remarkable. The 
Lettish peasants, who had for centuries been oppressed 
by their German lords, and had little sympathy for their 
German pastors, had for some time been in a state of 
excitement, and reports had been circulated by some 



History of the A rchimandrite Philaret. 48 1 

of them, that if they were to join the Orthodox Church, 
the Government would either improve their condition, 
in relation to the lords of the soil, or would remove 
them, and give them lands and freedom elsewhere. 
Some of the peasantry applied to the then Bishop of 
Riga, to inform themselves of the truth of this report ; 
and the Bishop, while he said that he had no authority 
to hold out to them any such prospect of temporal 
advantage, did not, as it would seem, trouble himself to 
correct their misapprehensions, but rather signified that 
perhaps the Government might be more inclined to 
favour them, if they were members of the Church ; or, 
at any rate, that it would be very natural and proper 
that it should be so, though he had no information 
about it. Their hopes being rather confirmed by this 
answer than destroyed, some of them began to pass on 
to the Russian communion. The German Lutherans, 
lords of the soil, and the pastors, greatly annoyed at 
this movement, lodged an " information before the 
Government at Petersburg, against the Bishop, on the 
ground that the rights and privileges of the Lutheran 
religion, as guaranteed to the Baltic provinces, were 
infringed, and civil disturbances caused, by the Bishop's 
encouragement of proselytism." The Government re- 
ferred the matter to the Synod ; and the Synod, after 
examination, displaced the Bishop, and sent him into 
a monastery, on the ground that he ought not to have 

i i 



482 Subsequent History 



laid himself open to any suspicion of encouraging what 
were secular motives, in so grave a matter as conver- 
sion, motives too, which compromised the Government, 
as supposing certain wishes and intentions on its part. 
Philaret, Rector of the Spiritual Academy at the 
Troitsa, was chosen to be his successor ; and, as soon 
as he was consecrated, set to work, with great energy, 
to give an unmistakable spiritual direction to the 
general fermentation and good will towards the Russian 
Church, which he found existing in the Lettish 
peasantry. He opened conferences with some of the 
Moravian pastors, the least unbelieving of the Germans, 
and not without effect ; he translated the Russian 
Catechism into the Lettish dialect, and began to trans- 
late the Liturgy, and to train priests and deacons who 
should be able to officiate and preach among the 
peasantry in their own language. From a mixture of 
motives, among which discontent with their German 
lords was, no doubt, very prominent, the movement in 
the country became daily more general and decided. 
Once more the nobility and their clergy, alarmed and 
exasperated, made representation to the Government 
at Petersburg, and complained of it as an infringement 
of their rights, that the Bishop had printed the Russian 
Catechism in the Lettish language. But at this time 
they were unsuccessful in their remonstrance. It was, 
indeed, plain that, so long as they had no other acts of 



of the A rchimandrite Philaret. . 483 

the Bishop to allege, he could not be interfered with, 
he was only doing his duty ; and if he really was, by 
such means as were brought against him, bringing 
people into the Church, the Kussian Government had 
no reason to be dissatisfied with him. 

But, in the meantime, the Prussian and German 
newspapers invented, and the French and English 
circulated, the most extravagant stories concerning 
Russian bigotry and oppression ; representing that the 
Emperor was forcing the whole population at the point 
of the bayonet to conform to the Kussian Church, and 
using its clergy as the tool of his political proselytism. 
On this the Emperor, who was at Palermo, either from 
embarrassment at the rapidity of the movement, or from 
sensitiveness at the stories circulated through the West 
of Europe, to the disadvantage of his Government, or, 
thinking it an equitable concession to the German 
nobility, issued an oukaz, to the effect that no Lettish 
peasant should be received into the Orthodox Church 
who had not, six months previously, signed a public 
declaration of his intention. However, in spite of this 
discouragement, the movement continued to spread, 
and is still spreading, year after year : and, on the 
tercentenary of the adoption of the Religion of Private 
Judgment, in some places the whole population of a 
village met together in the church, and took a solemn 
farewell for ever of Luther and his Reformation. And 
i i 2 



484 Subsequent History 

just now there seems to be every probability that the 
whole population of the Baltic provinces will, in a few 
years, have passed over to the Orthodox Communion. 

In 1847, a friend of mine had a conversation on 
the subject with Count Pratasoff, the Ober-Prokuror, 
and sent me an account of it, of which the following 
is an extract. " I spoke of the conversion of Livonia ; 
he seemed in high spirits about it, and said, 'They 
are going on faster than ever ; thousands are inscribing 
their names on the lists every month, and the whole 
number already received into the Church amounts to 
72,000.' He said that the Government was quite 
embarrassed to find them priests and churches, and 
that on this account they rather try to moderate 
than to accelerate the movement. An oukaz has been 
issued that no one is to be received into the Church 
who has not given six months' notice, being quite at 
liberty to change his mind in the interval. The 
converts meanwhile are subject to petty persecutions 
and vexations from their German lords, so that it 
cannot be said that they have been taken by surprise. 
I heard it suggested that it was intended to deprive 
the Lutherans of the churches ; he immediately replied, 
' No, we will not touch a hair of their heads ; the 
churches belong to the Seigneurs.' I said, * The 
churches are ecclesiastical property, and cannot belong 
to laymen.' He answered quickly, ' No matter, we 



of the A rchimandrite Philaret. 48 5 

will not have them ; we will build churches of our 
own.' 

" ' One great difficulty,' he says, ' is to procure land 
for sites, for churches and burying-grounds, for the pro- 
prietors refused to sell.' On my remarking that, in the 
rapidity of its spreading, it resembled the first outbreak 
of Lutheranism in Germany, he said it was so, but 
that both in its progress and in the opposition made 
to it, it was as much indebted to temporal as to religious 
motives, or more ; that the peasants embrace it from 
dislike of their masters and a wish to have more 
holidays, not less than from conviction ; and that the 
Germans oppose it, not so much from regard to 
Lutheranism, as from national or rather provincial 
pride. I understand the Minister-Adjoint of Public 
Instruction has put the number of converts at 100,000, 
which may well be the case if we reckon in, at 28,000, 
those who have inscribed their names for their six 
months' probation." 

Such is the account which has reached the present 
writer of a remarkable religious movement rarely 
witnessed in our days, and such was the part which 
Philaret, my host in 1841, had in it. 



CHAPTER CXIII. 

Mr. Palmer's discussion with the Archimandrite 
Philaret about Invocation of Saints. 

r I THUS I introduce the conversation I had with him 
**- at the Troitsa Monastery, at this date, on the 
subject of the Invocation of the Saints. In the 
following dialogue Ph. denotes Philaret, and A, his 
Anglican guest. 

The Archimandrite began thus : Ph. I have looked 
over the Introduction to the XXXIX. Articles which 
you have given me, and wonder at what is there said 
of Icons, Relics, and Invocation of the Saints, seeing 
that from the first there was a necessary connexion be- 
tween outward representations of them and the inward 
sentiments of veneration and honour entertained to- 
wards them. I wonder then to find you calling, what 
I consider inseparable, uSia<opov, indifferent. Who 
does not identify a father's countenance with his 
spirit or soul ? 

A. Not only do we call it aSidtfropov, but for ourselves, 



Discussion with the Archimandrite Philaret. 487 

absolutely and abstractedly, we prefer what we think 
the more ancient and primitive sense and practice of 
the Church to your present. We contend that our 
Church has never synodically bound herself to the 
Decrees of the Second Nicene Council, though the 
custom which that Council sanctions may have been 
introduced and prevailed among us for some centuries, 
through Papal influence. 

Ph. Canonical decisions need not enter into the 
question. If the thing is in itself natural and tends 
to edification, it is good, whether any particular 
Church makes canons for it or against it. 

A. We think that there are many things which may 
be more or less profitable, according to circumstances, 
and this among the number. There may be no neces- 
sary sin or idolatry in it, if holy pictures or images be 
honoured according to the doctrine and intention of the 
Church, and for myself I am really to kiss even the 
pavement of the church, or the doorpost of the outer 
porch, or the feet of the clergy; still, there is a 
wide difference between an occasional spontaneous act 
and a formal prescribed ceremony ; and, as men are, 
it may be doubted whether more harm or good is done 
by the general mass of such observances, especially when 
there are many of them. 

Ph. When people are pious, how can you in that 
case think the usage an abuse or mischief 1 There was 



488 Mr. Palmers discussion 

indeed a time \vhen they had here in Russia an undue 
and superstitious attachment to their Icons, but the 
clergy now warn them against such abuse. 

A. But surely the people may have a feeling of 
religion without sound judgment ; it is not as if we 
could secure generally a high standard of enlightened 
piety ; hence I am driven back to the Fathers ; what 
do they say 1 And again, what say the Nestorians 1 
And again, what say the Armenians 1 The Nestorians 
hand down to us the custom of the fifth century, and 
the Armenians in the eleventh and twelfth centuries are 
spoken of as agreeing in this point with the Germans, 
and differing from the Greeks and the Italians ; more- 
over, the German, Prankish, and English Churches all 
rejected the Second Nicene Council without any breach 
of communion ensuing on that account. St. Augustine, 
speaking of abuses, says he knew of many Christians 
who used to kiss (adorare) pictures, and he considers 
this a weakness. 

Ph. I think I can show you proof that there were 
not only pictures, but Icons in the churches at that time 
in some parts of the East. 

A. Certainly, that may be so ; but their existence in 
some Churches, and even the existence of the " weak- 
ness," of which St. Augustine speaks, in some Churches, 
is one thing, and the general prescribed use of external 
reverence in any part of the ritual is another. Doubt- 



with the Archimandrite Philaret. 489 

less from the very time of the Apostles it was per- 
missible and permitted to the Christians to have both 
pictures and images ; and if they kissed them at any 
time from spontaneous affection (as we know they 
honoured the Cross, and the Gospel, and many other 
holy objects), it was surely no sin in them. There is 
complete agreement between us as to the principle and 
tlie abstract theory or doctrine, the only question which 
can remain being wholly practical, and open, whatever 
authorities are adducible, to such reasonable objections 
and distinctions as the circumstances create. 



CHAPTER CXIV. 
Discussion Continued. 

r I iHE Archimandrite would not take this view 
-^ of the matter ; he proceeded to say 'why. I 
cannot, he said, think that it is a matter of so little 
importance as to lie outside that rule which you admit 
to be decisive in all principal matters of religion, viz. 
that " usum non tollit abusus," and that when an abuse 
occurs or may be apprehended, the clergy should cor- 
rect or guard against it, without removing the thing 
abused. Otherwise, where are we ? under pretence of 
abuse, since everything is abused or perverted by one 
inind or another, the whole outward framework of re- 
ligion and of the Church runs the risk of a gradual 
destruction, one thing after another being removed as 
an abuse. 

A. We certainly think that in this particular case it 
is indeed best for us in England to be rid of the formal 
usage altogether ; but still we need not say or think 
that, as things are now in Russia, it would be desirable 



Discussion with the Archimandrite continued. 49 1 

or right, even if it were possible, to remove this or the 
like custom. But if we had lived in the eighth or 
ninth century, we might have thought twice before we 
consented to its introduction. However, there is mani- 
festly a great difference between the general temper 
and habits of the Eastern and Russian and the Western 
and German people, and such ecclesiastical usages may 
be much more natural among you than they would be 
among us, and more consistent with your domestic and 
civil life than they are with ours. You have a warmth 
and impulsiveness which is ever expressing itself out- 
wardly ; you are for ever bowing and kissing each 
other, and it would be strange indeed if you stopped 
short of that in your bearing toward the visible repre- 
sentations of our Lord, His Mother, and His saints, 
which you instance in almost everything else ; but we 
are bare, cold, reserved in our daily life and in our reli- 
gious ceremonial, and to teach our people the necessity 
or even profit of crossing, bowing, lighting lights before 
pictures, and kissing them as a part of Christianity, 
would repel them as a superstition and absurdity, so 
utterly are we without your temper. 

Ph. What you have said may have its weight, but 
whether or not, it does not apply to what especially 
struck me in your book, your dispensing with Invocation 
of Saints ; this cannot be resolved into a mere acci- 
dental or national characteristic, but is an ethical and 



49 2 Discussion with the A rchimandritc 



religious defect. Without raising the importance or 
necessity of " Bonum est invocare sanctos," to the level 
of those fundamental and indispensable articles which 
are contained in the Creed, still it is legitimately and 
necessarily connected with them ; and how then can you 
write, as I see here written, that it would not be heresy 
to deny it 1 

A. If any one denies it so as to deny " The Com- 
munion of Saints," it is indeed heresy; but if a man 
denies it only practically, it will be at worst only a 
hurtful neglect, mistake, ignorance or prejudice. 

Ph. But even so, if the whole of Christian piety 
would be mutilated by such neglect, which from 
omission would soon grow to ignorance, to rejection, 
and condemnation, and even to malice, must not the 
Church teach the people clearly and strongly what 
conduces to their salvation 1 

A. There seems to be a close affinity between the 
doctrine of the Invocation of Saints and that of prayer 
for the departed, when both are rightly understood. 
Both are the offspring of natural sentiment and reason- 
able influence. Neither is matter of express revelation 
or commandment, nor, strictly speaking, part of the 
Faith. They do not seem, however, to stand exactly 
on the same level, for the Apostolicity and Catholicity 
of prayer for the departed has much earlier and stronger 
proof for it than any form of address to the spirits of 



Continued. 493 



departed Saints or to the Angels, since they are the 
acts of natural piety, and no shadow of Apostolical 
Tradition can be adduced as forbidding this use. 
We must then place them among those observances, as 
to which individuals have liberty, and the Church 
authority. We cannot, indeed, conceive a Christian 
having faith in the Communion of Saints who has not 
also implicitly in his heart both prayer for the departed 
and Invocation of the Saints, that is, prayer for all 
those who can be prayed for, and prayer with all those 
who pray. 

Ph. Well and piously said. The Lutherans, how- 
ever, having misunderstood the matter from the first, 
have brought things to that pass, that now every Invo- 
cation is for them an impiety, and the consequence is 
that those habits of mind, of affection, of humility, of 
faith in the Communion of Saints, are no longer 
formed in them, which the frequent use of Invocation 
is intended to develope. Especially there seems to me 
to be a strong bearing of pride in the tone and manner 
in which Protestants will have none but our Lord to do 
anything for them. All most surely is in Christ, and 
apart from Him nothing can be good or profitable either 
in ourselves or in others ; but yet surely in the unity 
of His Spiritual Body it is a good and salutary thing 
to feel we can be aided, and to be disposed and look to 
be aided one by another. It is good, and greatly 



494 Discussion with the Archimandrite. 



tending to humility, and really to Christ's glory, to sub- 
mit ourselves one to another, to reverence, honour, and 
esteem the holiness and spiritual rank of others higher 
than our own, all in the spirit of love, in unity of 
Christ, and the true faith and fear of God. Now, I 
repeat, I think there is something very like pride in the 
way in which the Lutherans refuse help from any 
created being, but only directly from Christ, and cannot 
bring themselves to the humility of saying, " most 
Holy Mother of God, save us." 



CHAPTER CXV. 

Mr. Palmer's reflections on his discussion with 
the Rector ; his return to Moscow. 

E Archimandrite spoke more to the same effect, 
and his Anglican guest replied in his own line 
of argument, as above ; but what has already been set 
down may seem to the reader sufficient. For myself I 
fear, on reflecting upon what passed between us, that 
the Protestant assertion I mean that prayers to the 
Saints are derogatory to the glory of the One Mediator 
and lower the religious temper is not quite borne out 
by our experience. That is, the rejection of the 
prayers of departed Saints, and of the habit of express- 
ing the wish of being benefited by them, has not 
increased in us a disposition to think much of the 
prayers of the living, or of prayer itself, or that humility, 
which thinks of others as better and nearer to God 
than ourselves. I will add that I was much struck when 
I first came into Russia, how much more the national 
character seemed to be tinctured with humility, bro- 



496 Mr. Palmer' } s reflections 

therly kindness, and warm feeling, as well as reverence 
for holy things and religious faith, than our own is. 
I knew of course hefore I came here, that we could be 
accused of pride and egoisme, but I had no idea of the 
extent of the evil till I was here, and saw the contrast. 
One captain in the American service (they are our 
children) observed to the Government that it did not 
seem to him consistent with the dignity of a demo- 
cratic citizen to follow the universal custom to take oif 
his hat on meeting the Emperor. " However," said he, 
" the Emperor met me in the street and saved me the 
trouble of deciding the question, for he took oif his own 
hat to me. I suppose he saw I was a stranger." In 
the " Handbook for Northern Europe," the author, 
speaking of the Nicholas Gate of the Kremlin, which 
it is customary to pass bareheaded, says, " Many 
Englishmen have made a point of honour of walking 
on as if ignorant of the custom, until stopped by the 
sentinel." I have sometimes asked members of the 
Established Church whether they conformed on some 
occasion with this or that innocent or Catholic usage, 
and have been answered with a smile or a sneer 
" Not I." But it is enough to have suggested a thought 
when it admits of numberless illustrations. 

On this day, June 3 [N.S.], I took leave and returned 
to Moscow, having attended early Liturgy in the Me- 
tropolitan's private chapel, and received from the 



on his discussion. 497 



Kector, as a present from his own library, a , copy 
of Zoanikoff's "Treatise on the Procession," "The 
Theology of Theophanes Pfotopovich," and a volume 
of " Historical Dissertations on various Heresies and 
Schisms," which have appeared in Eussia since its 
reception of Christianity. 

I started at about half-past nine, and arrived at 
Moscow about seven p.m., nearly shaken to pieces, 
having neglected to provide myself with a mattress. 
The same evening I proceeded to call on Mr. Camidge, 
and received from him my letters from home. 



K k 



CHAPTER CXVI. 

His polemical encounter with the Princess 
Meshchersky. 

~~\ FAYING on Friday, the 4th [N.S.], called in vain 
-* upon the Proto-presbyter of the Assumption, I 
called the next day with Mr. Camidge upon the old 
Princess Meshchersky, 1 a lady who was reclaimed from 
scepticism by Dr. Pinkerton, then agent to the British 
and Foreign Bible Society in Russia. She made me 
give her a long historical account of the English Church 
since the time of Henry VIII. ; but I have set down 
in form of dialogue portions of two conversations which 
I had with her, and I here give them at length, as 
illustrating the sort of liberal Evangelicalism of which 
there have been traces above in my memoranda of 
conversations with Russians, especially with religious 
and educated ladies. The initial letters A. and L. shall 
stand respectively for Anglican and Lady. 

L. Tell me what is the new sect in England which 
1 [Vide supra, pp. 284, 402.] 



His polemical encounter with the Princess.. 499 

wants to destroy the Established Church ? Are you a 
member of it? I heard from Petersburg that you 
wished to communicate in our Church. Why so \ It 
is impossible. Neither you nor any number of you can 
make union. 

A. No, perhaps not; yet our actions may be such 
as to promote or to hinder it ; the greatest of forces 
being after all only a multiple of the most minute. 

L. I believe in the inner or essential Church, which 
is agreeable to the Bible, and as for particular outward 
Churches, none of them are perfect. Even in the 
Apostles' time there were divisions and very different 
spiritual states in different Churches. 

A. But the Church was one in visible and outward 
communion for 1200 years, and may yet be so again. 

L. That is a beautiful dream. The thing is utterly 
impossible. The division came in the first instance 
from the moral corruption and evil passions of Chris- 
tians. These have ever since increased one's conviction 
that division and acquiescence in it is a necessity almost 
with the structure of society. The original division 
itself has been reproduced and multiplied. No, there 
can be no end of it till Christ comes, and, scarcely 
finding faith on the earth, shall rebuild the inward and 
heavenly polity. There is the Roman Catholic com- 
munion ; it has its faults ; so far as it has the essential 
faith it is very good ; but, so far as men have added to 
K k 2 



500 His polemical encounter 

it and corrupted it, it is bad. You have your Anglican 
Church, you have made confusion in many things, but 
you have what is necessary ; and what do you want 
more 1 The Church of Russia, the Greek Church, has 
been changed and corrupted less than the Papal 
Church, only, as seems to me, because its circumstances 
have been different, and its Prelates have not been 
tempted, as the Roman, by riches and dominion ; and 
yet certainly it has its faults, too. Men have intro- 
duced into it their additions and inventions. There is 
the Adoration of the Saints. 

A. I do not like that word, which, you know, is 
ambiguous. 

L. Well, " worship," if you like. 

A. " Worship " is ambiguous too. All such words 
are ambiguous, whether in Latin, or Greek, or Hebrew, 
or English, or in Russ. The Jews are said in Scripture 
and its versions to "worship" God and the King. 
Coming to the thing itself in contrast to the sense of 
words, I go so far to agreeing with you as to admit 
that abuses exist which require correction ; but the 
argument that there is only one Mediator is thoroughly 
Protestant, and is unworthy the tongue of an orthodox 
Russian. 

L. Well, is there not only one ? 

A. Certainly there is only one, in the strict and 
absolute sense. Every Christian knows that ; but in 



with the Princess Meshchersky. 501 

this one only Mediator, in Christ, not apart from Him, 
but in a secondary sense, we are all mediators one for 
another. 

L. To be sure we are ; I quite admit that, because 
it is in the Bible. 

A. And the Apostle Paul, in the very verses im- 
mediately before, " exhorts that first of all, supplica- 
tions, prayers, intercessions be made for all men ;" but 
what are intercessions but mediations 1 and what are 
intercessors but mediators ? 

L. To be sure, to be sure ! 

A. Well, then, it is right both to pray for others 
and to desire that they should pray for us. 

L. I grant it. 

A. And the more any one is eminent, either for 
his place in this Church, or for sanctity, so much more 
should we value and desire his prayers. 

L. I agree. 

A. If then " the effectual fervent prayer of a righteous 
man availeth much " here below, so much, according to 
St. James, as even to change the course of nature and 
to work miracles, does it avail' less when his righteous- 
ness is perfected in heaven 1 

L. I admit all that you have said, and all besides 
that you can say of this sort. 

A. Well then, if, in contemplating the Communion 
of Saints, we must naturally feel comfort in the 



5O2 His polemical encounter 

thought of their praying for us, so that our will and 
feeling unite with theirs, and wish them to do that 
which they are in fact doing, it follows that to express 
this wish outwardly in words whenever we are naturally 
and actually moved to do so, can scarcely be wrong. 
And even irrespective of any ulterior effect, to ask the 
prayers of the saints may be to a certain extent a 
means towards our having them that is, towards 
cultivating in ourselves that communion and union of 
spirit, without which we can obtain neither general 
nor particular benefit from their prayers for us. If so, 
it will be not only natural and innocent, but positively 
useful to seek the help of the saints now reigning with 
Christ, no less than the help of those who are still on 
earth. 

Further, I conceive this may be done in two ways 
one, when the mind, speaking to God and Christ in 
prayer, partly in faith and love, partly in humility and 
self-abasement, offers the prayers of otKers who are 
better and stronger than ourselves not as if there were 
other mediators than Christ, but, as touching in them 
Christ's seamless Robe, the hem of His garment, of 
which we are unworthy to be a part ; and, secondly, 
when we address the Saints themselves with direct, 
poetical, rhetorical, and spiritual invocations not as if 
they were naturally or bodily present to hear us, but as 



with the Princess Meshchersky. 503 

speaking to them (if not in form yet in sense), only 
in Christ and in God, who may give us for our ad- 
dresses the same benefit as if the Saints were naturally 
present to hear. May we not safely say this? 



CHAPTER CXVII. 
Encounter with the Princess continued. 

HE did not attempt to meet these observations 
directly, but went on thus : 

L. But surely you agree with me that there are 
things in our received worship and ritual which are 
faulty 1 

A. Yes, we must confess that when the services of 
the Church are filled with invocations, and there is a 
stated cuUiis, not only for the Saints in general, but 
also for each Saint individually, and for particular 
Icons, there may be danger of gross misunderstandings 
and abuse among the common people. It does not 
seem that in the earliest and best ages of the Church, 
when there would have been far less * danger of mis- 
understandings and of abuses, there existed any such 
efflorescence of saint worship and Icon worship, as is 

1 [Less danger? surely greater. The prevalence and the 
habit of idolatry in paganism may have been the sufficient reason 
why image worship was not allowed or even thought of.] 



Encounter with the Princess continued. 505 

now embodied in your ritual. And now you have 
neither the holy discipline nor the frequent communion 
of the primitive Church, which are the true practical 
bonds and safeguards of the communion of saints. 
One might be pardoned then for wishing that every- 
thing of the kind, at least of comparatively late intro- 
duction, should be retrenched or modified. Enough 
might still remain, both of indirect and direct invoca- 
tion, to keep up the sense of communion with the 
saints in heaven. 

L. Perhaps it would be unnecessary to make 
omissions ; a little verbal alteration would suffice. But 
why, since you agree with me in thinking that every- 
where are faults and things to alter, why do you seek 
to quit one particular Church for another ? It is only 
changing this set of faults for that. The true essential 
faith of the Bible is the same in all alike. 

A. I do not wish to leave the English Church for 
the Russian, but to unite the two. 

We ought by no means to quit our own Church, 
merely because it has faults, so long as we believe it 
to be a portion of the True Church ; and no one can do 
so without sin. But what do you mean by " particular 
churches," and, " the faith of the Bible, which is the 
same in all of them " 1 We believe there is only one 
Church, and that visible, as well as invisible. 

L. Where then, and which is the Church 1 



506 Encounter with the Princess 

A. Ask in every country, and they will point it out 
to you, even sectaries ; the Eoman Church, at Rome ; 
the English, in England ; the Russian, in Russia : or, 
if anywhere there seems to be a doubtful claim to 
the title, you can run over the epithets of the true 
Church, such as Orthodox, Catholic, Apostolic, and the 
like ; and you may ask which is the old original 
Church in any country. Or, again, historically, we 
see and trace the unity of the whole body for 1100 
or 1200 years ; and, in spite of the superficial quarrel 
and division between them we see still traces of three 
Apostolical Communions, which down to that division 
were one ; and which, if the quarrel is only superficial, 
are one in truth and by right still. But if you include 
in your idea of the visible Church all those sects which 
set up the Eible against the Church or rather, their own 
pretended right and duty to judge and teach against 
the duty and right of the Church to teach and judge, 
and their private and particular sense of Scripture 
against her Apostolic and Catholic interpretation, then 
any true Anglican must differ from you. 

L. I mean nothing of the kind : the Bible says 
nothing of the right of disobedience, or of human 
churches. The formation and governance of the Church 
is said, in the Bible, to be by Apostolical mission and 
authority ; the Church teaches, but now, if you please, 
tell me you, on the other hand, what you mean when 



Continued. 507 



you speak of the faith and teaching of these portions 
of it, which you recognize as Apostolical. What is 
that faith and teaching in which these portions agree 1 

A. It would take a long time to enumerate to you 
all the points of agreement. They all agree in all the 
Articles of the Niceno-Constantinopolitan Creed ; and, 
on the whole, in the Church and Sacraments, so as to 
guard against the heresies of Protestantism. Again, 
Christians must have been baptized, and must per- 
severe in the four things stated towards the end of the 
second chapter of the Acts. 

L. Yes, that is all in the Bible ; I am quite of your 
mind. If this is your Church and Eeligion, I am in a 
manner a member of it. But stay ; what about agree- 
ment in other matters ? can you restore unity in them *? 
Now that it has been so long broken it is impossible. 

A. At all events, we may each do our duty, per- 
sonally, towards its restoration. 

L. The reading of the Bible has, no doubt, produced 
faults, errors, schisms, and confusion among you ; and 
so it will among us, yet I am not afraid. There cannot 
be light and improvement without it. 

A. Why must it be so in Russia 1 Why should not 
Russia profit by the experience of the West, and avoid 
any such confusion 1 

L. It cannot be otherwise. 

A. Now that we, in England, have seen the extreme 



508 Encounter with the Princess 

developments of the evil, there is manifesting itself 
a tendency to reconstruction; and the same Bible 
religion, which has done so much mischief, will be 
efficient help in repairing it. 

L. To be sure ; that is intelligible enough ; so it 
may be in time with us, but we must have the con- 
fusion first. 

A. I hope not. 

L. How can it be avoided 1 

A. Perhaps, before things come to that pass, a union 
may be effected between our and your Church. We, 
having gone through it all, are rebuilding a Catholic 
theology out of the ruins of a decomposed Protestant- 
ism ; and, if so, union with us would be your antidote. 
Besides, no such opposition between the Bible and 
authority has been suspected in your Church, as was 
the case in the Latin. 

L. No such union as that you speak of can be 
effected till we have had the confusion, and till we 
have such a further degree of enlightenment as can 
only be gained at the expense of confusion. At 
present, the people are so blindly attached to the 
externals of their rite, that they would make fresh 
schisms by millions ; not only if any the least particle 
were altered, but also as surely, supposing any union 
were made with bodies or persons. 

A. Perhaps a union need not be such as to bring 



Continued. 509 



practically before public notice any such innovation as 
it involved. What could they know about it, if the 
Armenians were reconciled to-morrow? Nay, the 
Uniats are already reconciled, who have priests and 
bishops without beards, and yet no popular rising. 

L. The thing is impossible. 

A. As for ourselves, the recent changes, by means 
of which the sects, Protestant and Popish, have become 
active, political factions against the Church, have turned 
to the Church's benefit. She has risen in public esti- 
mation under the attacks of her enemies, and has 
suggested the idea, and the desire, of a return to unity. 

L. I am prepared to believe it, and am glad that it 
should be so. 



CHAPTER CXVIII. 
Conflict with the Princess renewed. 

"TUNE 8 [N.S.]. Had some further conversation 
" with Madame Meshchersky. After speaking 
against prayers for the departed as useless, for their 
state for heaven or hell is already fixed once for all, 
she passed on to speak of the books I had lent her. 
One was "Plain Sermons" by contributors to the 
"Tracts for the Times." " I have been reading," she 
said, " with much pleasure those sermons. I mean to 
translate some of them into Russ, and have them 
printed. Here is a book I have lately had translated 
and printed, ' Baxter's Saints' Rest.' " She showed it 
to me, with a frontispiece representing the Assumption 
of the Blessed Virgin, surrounded by saints and 
angels. Do the censors pass such a book as this ? I 
asked. 

L. They make what change they please, but such 
are generally slight, nothing to signify. 

A. Yet it must be difficult to make a book written 



Conflict with the Princess renewed. 511 

on a principle of false doctrine fit for the use of an 
orthodox Christian. 

L. As for me, I see no difference between the 
theology of the "Plain Sermons" and the books 
of English Dissenters. The Protestants are right, I 
think, in calling all that body of religion, which you 
defend as common to the Apostolical churches, by the 
name of " Popery ;" and we, with our Russian or 
Greek Church, are in fact Popish too. We differ with 
Rome about the Procession, and some other things 
which I cannot understand. You are yourself a Papist, 
who wish to bring out one element existing in the 
Church of England to the exclusion of the rest, and 
so you detect in Anglican books the minutest ad- 
mixture of contrary principles, because it is that you 
look for. For my part I read the books of devotion 
of both classes of writers alike, and see no differences 
because I look for none. 

A. Nevertheless, it is easy to see that your reading 
has lain chiefly with sectarian writers, and that your 
ideas and language are much tinged by their peculiar, 
and, as we believe, most erroneous opinions. 

L. I confess that I turned my attention to religion 
late, and that I owe all my knowledge of it to English 
books, and those the books of Dissenters. Nearly all 
the English we have seen here in Russia, or heard 
anything of, have been Dissenters. Very few indeed 



512 Conflict with the Princess 

have been of the Established Church, and so we know 
little about it. (On a later day she said) I am more 
and more pleased with the "Plain Sermons." They 
are to be translated immediately. There is not a word 
in them will require to be changed ; they will pass 
the censors as they are. 

A. You have discovered, then, that they are not 
quite the same thing as those of your friends the 
Dissenters 1 

L. No ; I see no difference. In these books you 
have given me there are no invocations of the Virgin 
and the Saints. 

A. No, that is quite true ; and our Church has 
omitted all such addresses from her offices, and discoun- 
tenanced them in individuals, on account of former 
abuse ; but that does not prove that they may not be 
taken in an orthodox and harmless sense in other 
Churches, and you could not expect to find anything 
of that kind in " plain " sermons. 

L. No ; but what surprises me is, that I have looked 
into the other book, Bishop Andrewes's " Private Devo- 
tions," which you gave me, and find nothing of the 
kind there either; yet this is a book of the High 
Church. 

A. Neither there would you have much reason to 
expect it, but rather if at all, in hymns, anthems, in 
the poetical part of the variable services, which ser- 



Renewed. 5 1 3 



vices, however, to tell the truth, are almost altogether 
wanting in the Anglican Church. And, besides that, 
our writers accommodate themselves to popular pre- 
judices, and confine themselves, even the few who know 
better, to what the shattered fabric and mutilated 
offices of their Church seem to justify in the eyes of a 
Calvinized people, who take them for an absolute 
measure of fulness and perfection, if not even a little 
too Popish already. But in Bishop Andrewes's Devo- 
tions you will find the real presence, confession and 
absolution, prayer for the departed, and comprecation 
with the saints, which is the germ of their invocation. 
Indeed, one passage in his Prayers, taken from the lesser 
ectenia of your own offices, seems to contain an indirect 
invocation. 

L. I may admit all you say in the abstract about 
Invocation ; but, with regard to the absence of such 
usages from your Anglican offices, though you blame 
it, and talk of the rudeness with which abuses and 
excesses were corrected, I think, on the contrary, that 
to mince matters (faire des delicatesses) in such ques- 
tions is all one with doing nothing. Such a mode of 
reformation would be entirely inefficient. For my 
part, I think your Church in England the best of all 
churches precisely for the reason that she has been 
reformed. 

A. As for that, some of us think that she has rather 

L 1 



514 Conflict 'with the Princess renewed. 

been deformed than reformed, though, only secondary 
developments and excrescences having been cleared 
off and life remaining, free room has been left for 
the roots to grow again, and sprout and bud forth, and 
that in a more healthy manner, as soon as we have 
the grace to leave off contemplating with pitiable com- 
placency the havoc we have made, and seriously return 
with repentance to God and to the Church, which He 
alone founded, and which He alone can reform. 

L. Well, I am in some measure a member of the 
same Church with you ; though I think external unity 
impossible, and though, while believing an essential 
and invisible unity to subsist under divided parts, and 
looking for it there, I cannot stop short at the bounds 
of that Apostolical hierarchy, divided into dioceses, 
which you insist upon, but feel obliged to take in more 
or less the sects also, not defending, however, their 
errors. 



CHAPTER CXIX. 
The Jesuit Fathers and the Bible Society. 

"TUNE 10 [N.S.]. My visit to Moscow was now 
" coming to an end. On this day I sat long with 
the Princess Meshchersky, who told me that the sup- 
porters of the Bible Society, English and American^ 
have for a long time had a tract society and shop at 
Petersburg, and appear to have been very active, 
though a good deal of their mischief must have been 
corrected in passing through the Censura; still, no 
Russians seem to have any notion how subtle a poison 
is concealed and mingled with every portion of the 
enlightened zeal, or zeal for enlightenment, which they 
possess. We see in what it issues in the opinions 
avowed by the lady who allowed me to converse with 
her, and I take leave of her now in this narrative, with 
some notice of the foreign influences which have of late 
years acted upon educated Kussians of the Orthodox 
Church. 

Madame Meshchersky was the victim, as I must 
L 1 2 



5 1 6 The Jesuit Fathers and the Bible Society. 



call her, of one of two religious movements against the 
Orthodox Church within the last century, which were 
caused or promoted by two antagonistic bodies, and of 
which there are traces in the foregoing pages, the 
Jesuits and the Bible Society. Each had success for a 
time, but at length, first one and then the other was 
violently ejected from the country, as soon as the court 
and hierarchy came to see, how each in its own way was 
opposed to the ecclesiastical traditions and the popular 
sentiments of Russia. Without some mention of them 
as of elements lately, or even now, in action under the 
surface of the national religion, these memoranda of 
what I found there would be but one-sided ; in order 
to remedy this defect, I here avail myself of passages, 
with some abridgment (which indeed, before quitting 
England, I read to Dr. Eouth), from the work of Dr. 
Pinkerton, the foreign agent of the Bible Society, en- 
titled " Russia," and published in 1833. 



CHAPTER CXX. 

Success in Russia and Expulsion thence of the 
Jestiit Fathers. 

" T REACHED Polotsk," says Dr. Pinkerton, "then 
-*- the chief seat of the Jesuits, June 1, 1820. 
Entering their elegant church, I found upwards of 
200 boys, mostly sons of the nobility of the sur- 
rounding country, kneeling on the stone pavement. 
By a late order the Jesuits had been forbidden to teach 
any who were not of their own Church. This order, 
however, was not issued before the Government had 
had sad proofs of the influence they had gained over 
the minds of many, both young and old, belonging to 
the Greek communion. Among others, a nephew of 
Prince Alexander Galitsin, who was a boarder in their 
seminary at Petersburg, became a Catholic. At this 
time (1815) it was found that a considerable number 
of ladies of rank had also imbibed from them senti- 
ments unfavourable to the Greek Church. In order to 
counteract these opinions, and to bring back the stray 
sheep, the present Metropolitan of Moscow, Philaret, 



5 1 8 Success in Russia and Expulsion thence 

then Archimandrite and Professor of Theology in the 
Nefsky Academy, wrote a ' Comparison between the 
Doctrines of the Greek and Komish Churches,' a copy 
of which he gave me in MS., with permission to 
publish it. 

" In this ' Comparison ' he lays down as the doctrine 
of the Eastern Church that ' the only pure and all- 
sufficient source of the doctrines of faith is the revealed 
word of God, contained now in the Scriptures ' . . . . 
'everything necessary to salvation is stated in the Holy 
Scriptures with such clearness, that every one reading it 
with a sincere desire to be enlightened can understand 
it.' He adds, ( An enlightened interpreter of Holy 
Scripture is doubtless very desirable for Christians 
less instructed, but the idea that, in order to draw from 
it the articles of faith, a certain kind of despotic 
interpreter is necessary, lowers the dignity of the 
word of God and subjects faith to the will of man.' 
Again, ' Every one has not only a right, but it is his 
bounden duty to read the Holy Scripture in a language 
which he understands.' " 

Having gone through all the nineteen articles of this 
" Comparison," Dr. Pinkerton continues, with some 
abridgment, as follows : "In publishing this interesting 
document from the pen of a pupil of the late Metro- 
politan of Moscow, Platon, whose system of divinity I 
translated and published in 1814, and whose principles 



of the Jesuit Fathers. 519 

are still taught in the Kussian Spiritual Schools, I do 
not mean to insinuate that the Russian people, or even 
many of the lower clergy, possess such distinct views 
as Philaret of the leading doctrines of the Gospel. 
The people are still illiterate, and sunk in ignorance 
and superstition to a degree scarcely credible." 

That, however, he considers, does not destroy the 
favourable aspect of the future which Platon and 
Philaret open upon us. Platon brings forth the 
grand antidote against all these errors in principle and 
practice, when he says, " We must hold to the Divine 
Word alone, and rest assured that it only contains the 
true rules by which we ought to please God ; and there- 
fore Christ said concerning the Holy Scriptures, that in 
them is contained eternal life." Dr. Pinkerton con- 
tinues, " That such a principle is unhesitatingly ad- 
mitted by Platon, Philaret, and many thousands of the 
clergy, who have been trained in the Spiritual Acade- 
mies and Seminaries under them, opens a door of hope 
for the gradual advancement of purer religious worship 
among the Russians, and how far this desirable object 
has been promoted by Bible Societies in that empire 
future generations will be more able to estimate than 
the present. 

" Philaret's ' comparative view ' did not, I believe, 
change the mind of young Galitsin, for whom especially 
it was written ; but no doubt the discovery made at that 



520 The Jesuit Fathers. 



time of the depredations committed by the Jesuits 
upon the national Church, the fanatical Popish senti- 
ments instilled into the nephew of the Minister for 
Spiritual Affairs, and the opposition which they made 
to the dissemination of the Holy Scriptures, hastened 
their final expulsion from the empire in the year 1820." 
According to Dr. Pinkerton, at that time their number 
in Russia amounted to 674, and in 1816 they had 
houses in Petersburg, Moscow, Mohilef, Astrachan, 
Odessa, and other places, not to speak of such Fathers 
as were scattered about as domestic teachers and resi- 
dents in families. In Polotsk their establishment was 
splendid, and attached to it were 11,000 serfs and 
extensive territories. The oukaz, he tells us, which 
expelled them from the empire, " never more to return 
under any name or character," was dated March 13, 
1820, and by it their whole property was confiscated, 
and applied to the benefit of the Roman Catholic Church 
in Russia. 



CHAPTER CXXL . 

Success in Russia and Expulsion thence of the 
Bible Society. 

r 1 1 HE Bible Societies, before many years had passed, 
-*- shared the fate of the Jesuits ; and Dr. Pinker- 
ton, who shows no compassion for the misfortunes of 
the latter, is full of indignation when a like mishap 
overtakes his own friends. An attempt to establish 
them was first made through Dr. Pinkerton, in the 
year 1811, when the Princess Sophia Meshchersky, 
whose conversations with me have been the occasion 
of this digression, took up their cause and promoted 
the formation of a Bible Society ; and the project was 
realized January 23, 1813, by the permission of the 
Emperor Alexander, who himself became a member, 
his Minister, Prince Alexander Galitsin, being the 
President. In A.D. 1814, affiliated or auxiliary Bible 
Societies were formed all over the empire, till there 
were as many as 289 of them, and they continued 
during the remaining twelve years of Alexander's 
reign. Concerning the causes which led to their 



522 Success in Russia and Expulsion thence 



suspension or suppression in the first years of the 
Emperor Nicholas, Dr. Pinkerton, towards the end of 
his volume, writes thus : 

"In the latter part of the reign of the Emperor 
Alexander a strong party was formed at Petersburg 
against the Bible Society. Its principles and labours 
were too sacred not to meet with opposition. . . 
The opposition . . was . . not, as has been supposed, 
from any change in his own mind. . . His mind 
was perpetually harassed by the abominable false- 
hoods, the wicked insinuations, and the base in- 
trigues of this powerful though heterogeneous 
party, which at last obliged the noble, indefatigable, 
benevolent, and pious President of the Society, the 
Prince Alexander Galitsin, to resign the Presidency. 
This was then conferred upon the aged Metropolitan 
Seraphim, under whose guidance some hoped that the 
institution would be permitted to prosecute its usual 
labours. But Seraphim himself, with several other 
Prelates, and one or two fanatical monks, had for some 
years entertained unfriendly feelings towards the insti- 
tution ; and the latter had zealously spread their 
insinuations even among the better disposed classes of 
the Russian nobility. The circulation of the Scrip- 
tures, so extensive throughout the empire, for nearly 
half a million copies had already been sent forth from 
the depots of the Society, had produced among the 



of the Bible Society. 523 



people in different provinces effects which seemed sus- 
picious to the lovers of ignorance, error, and supersti- 
tion ; and these gave rise to numerous communications 
to the Committee in Petersburg, and to the Govern- 
ment, from the enemies of the cause in the provinces, 
filled with surmises, exaggerations, and falsehoods, until 
by these combined influences the Russian Bible Society 
was gradually crushed, notwithstanding the protection 
of its imperial friends. . . 

" Large supplies, however, of the Bible in the 
Slavonic and other languages, with the New Testament 
and Psalms in modern Russ, continued to be sold by 
the Synod at fixed prices. 

"And on the 14th of March, 1831, a new Bible 
Society exclusively for the Protestants of the Russian 
Empire was formed at Petersburg with the sanction 
of the present Emperor, . . but is nothing more to 
be done for the thirty-six millions of native Russians 
to supply them with the Scriptures in the vernacular 
tongue ?" So far Dr. Pinkerton ; now I return to my 
narrative. 



CHAPTER CXXII. 
Visit to New Jerusalem. 

~T~ MUST not omit here some notice, however short, 
~ A ~ of my visit to the celebrated monastery of the 
Resurrection in New Jerusalem (Voskresensk) founded 
by the patriarch Nicon. It is about forty-five versts 
to the westward of Moscow, and I started on Saturday, 
June 12 [N.S], at nine a.m. in a hired caleche with four 
horses abreast. After passing the barrier and going 
some distance on the Petersburg road, we turned off 
to the left over dry ruts and tracks rather than a road, 
and we passed three country houses of some import- 
ance. There was a good deal of swelling hills and 
extensive plain ground ; but not much wood, nor very 
much ploughed land. In the villages (there were 
several) we saw nice-looking white churches with 
green roofs, a bell-tower like ours at the west end, a 
trapeza, or nave, of the same width as the sanctuary, 
which was square, a dome over the centre of the 
church, surmounted by a small spire or with the cross 



Visit to New Jerusalem. 525 



and a semicircular apse eastwards. The monastery 
itself, which was the object of my journey, is very 
prettily situated on a hill, with groves around and 
below it, and a winding river ; and it became my 
object, because its sacred buildings were a model of 
the holy places at Jerusalem. The approach is by a 
long avenue of trees ; its walls are from twenty-five 
to thirty feet high, and rise finely out of the hill, with 
eight or nine good-looking towers at intervals, and 
another of rather fantastic appearance, higher than the 
rest. 

I was shown over the church, and by the help of 
MouraviefFs Pilgrim's map for the holy places, I com- 
pared the church with its original in Jerusalem, with 
which it seemed to correspond very nearly, so that 
one may, as it were, visit all the holy places which are 
contained under one roof at Jerusalem, without leaving 
the neighbourhood of Moscow. I was shown all the 
different chapels ; only, when we came to those of the 
Copt and the Armenian, the monk who conducted me, 
pointing to the first, said, "And here the Lutherans 
celebrate the washing of the feet on Maundy Thurs- 
day, and this is the chapel of the Calvinists." I 
attempted to set him right, but he persisted. " Yes, 
yes, it is so ; all the Christian confessions have their 
place of worship here." 

He showed me also the unfinished representation 



526 Visit to New Jerusalem. 



of the church at Bethlehem, and the model in wood, 
brought from Palestine by order of Nicon, from which 
he built this church. Lastly he showed me the pillar 
or tower, and cell of Nicon in a fair meadow adjoining, 
and his stone bed or pillow, and, under the Calvary 
in the church the bare and unhonoured (by any public 
honour unhonoured) tomb of the same great patriarch, 
dark and damp, or rather wet. However, there were 
one or two peasants crossing themselves and kissing 
it, and I felt it a privilege to join them in doing the 
same. Next morning, being with them All Saints' 
day, I heard early Liturgy in the chapel of St. Mary 
Magdalene, and returned to Moscow. 



CHAPTER CXXI1I. 

Farewell Interviews with the Metropolitan and 
the Princess. 

r 1 1HE Metropolitan Philaret, whose name and zeal 
-^ for the doctrine of the sufficiency of Scripture- 
teaching are prominent in Dr. Pinkerton's memorandum, 
had now left the Troitsa for Moscow, and I called on 
him on that Sunday, to take my leave. I had but 
a few hours returned from the interesting convent 
of New Jerusalem, 

I began by expostulating with him for the ambi- 
guity of the formal answer which he made to my 
application to him for communion, by using " Ortho- 
dox" church for "Oriental." On this point we had 
many words, and to me he appeared, in so speaking, to 
be confusing the part with the whole ; so, leaving it, 
I went on to ask him about the annual miracle at 
Jerusalem, of the holy fire, which is said to descend 
into the Holy Sepulchre on the great Sabbath. 
What was the accredited belief of his church about it 1 
for I had several times in Russia, and only yesterday 



5 28 Farewell Interviews 



at the New Jerusalem, heard it spoken of as universally 
believed, whereas the Franks, and most men whom we 
see or read in the West, speak of it as a most impudent 
and wicked imposture. He answered, " I know that 
the Latins do not believe it, and, to be sure, it may be 
said that, if it be a fraud, it is a safe one, for it is not 
public, and there are no witnesses of it. Only the 
Archbishop himself, who enters the tomb, testifies to 
it. On the other hand, if it is a fraud, the Archbishop 
must be guilty of it, and it seems to be a great diffi- 
culty to suppose a whole succession of the highest 
prelates of the Church conspiring to keep up an impos- 
ture." I said that certainly what took place was either 
a most signal token of Divine favour given to the 
Greek communion, or the most daring and profane 
wickedness. I said that unhappily it would not be 
the first instance of a false miracle. He said it would 
be much easier to counterfeit the liquefaction of St. 
Januarius's blood, and he seemed to establish a greater 
probability, from its nature and purpose, in the miracle 
of the Holy Fire. Also the liquefaction often does 
not take place. 1 "All I can tell you," he said, "is 
this, that some years ago a Eussian, a plain, simple 
man, gave us an account of what he had seen in the 

1 [If the liquefaction is not in the power of the priest who is 
in charge of the relic, then rather is it in the hands of a higher 
a gent, be it a natural or a supernatural.] 



with the Metropolitan and the Princess. 529 

holy places, and among other things he related that, at 
the moment when the Archbishop was in the sepulchre, 
and the miracle was taking place, he observed one or 
two candles outside the tomb light themselves." 

This was my farewell interview with the Metropoli- 
tan Philaret, viz. on Sunday, June 13 [N.S.]. The next 
day I took leave of the Princess. The same day 
I had gone to the Kremlin, and saw the old palace, 
which lately has been beautifully restored and fur- 
nished in its former style. The apartments are small, 
the roofs low and arched, with a kind of obtuse 
Gothic. All is admirably in keeping. We also saw 
the treasury and the regalia of Vladimir Monomachus. 



CHAPTER CXXIV. 

Retiirn to Petersburg Conversations with Priests 
Vasili and Stratelatoff. 

T WAS at Petersburg by Thursday, June 17 [N.S.]. 
-*- On the 18th I was at Cronstadt, and the Priest 
Vasili expressed himself delighted with the book of 
Bishop Beveridge in defence of the Apostolical Canons, 
which Mr. Blackmore had lent him. He said there 
was altogether a different spirit among us from what 
there is among the Lutherans ; that he could say him- 
self from what he had seen of them. 

On the evening of Tuesday the 22nd [N.S.] I called 
on the Priest Stratelatoff of the Isaac Church. He 
showed me the Greek copy of the XVIII. Articles of 
Bethlehem, which has recently been printed here by 
the Synod, in which I observed that the passage on 
Transubstantiation had the assertion that the substance 
no longer remained, but that only the body of Christ 
was in the species and type of the bread; but the 
word accidents did not appear, 1 as I think it does in 

1 [Nor does the word "accidents" occur in the Tridentine 
canons and capita.] 



Priests Vasili and Stratelatoff. 531 

the original, at the end of the sentence. I explained 
to him our doctrine on this point, and difference from 
Rome. He said it seemed to him to he a question 
no ways pertaining to edification or to piety. He had 
said before that, for some time they disputed with the 
Latins about the novelty of the word " transubstantia- 
tion," but at length, and that now long ago, they re- 
ceived it as meaning the same thing as conversion, 
transmutation, &c. When I had pointed out to 
him the real question about the mode, he quite as- 
sented to the idea that it is best to say nothing about 
it; that the words of their liturgies were sufficient. 
He did not deny the inconsistency of the Catechism 
of Mogila and the XVIII. Articles with themselves 
on this point, nor the difference of language which may 
be traced in Russian authors in consequence ; but for 
himself he thought that the Fathers used various and 
contradictory language on this point. He asked me if 
I was content with my journey to Russia, and what I 
had gained from it. I spoke of the Second Nicene 
Council. It would be impossible to make the kissing 
of pictures or images necessary and resting on a 
General Council, seeing that we had never canonically 
received but rejected the Second Nicene. He asked if 
there was any chance of my returning. I said it was 
more likely I should go to Chaldea to see if the ETesto- 
rian Offices were as full as theirs of Invocations. 
M in 2 



532 Conversations with Priests. 

Wednesday, June 23 [N.S.]. Saw Eortunatoff, who 
told me that Professor Bozolubsky was with him yes- 
terday, and seemed to know the English Church ad- 
mirably well, and told him that the Metropolitan could 
not do otherwise than answer me by ambiguities, as he 
was not at all acquainted with the English Church. 



CHAPTER CXXV. 
Visit to M. and Mde. Potemkin at Gortilitsa. 

nnHURSDAY, June 24. At ten started in a 
-^ caleche for Gortilitsa, about fifty versts dis- 
tant. It belonged once to the Empress Elizabeth. 
The house, or houses, connected by a verandah, sur- 
rounded a very large court, with a tuft of garden or 
shrubbery in the middle. The gardens on the other 
side were in English style, with a deep valley, a trout 
stream, cascades, fountains, grottoes, and lakes (some- 
times three visible at once), hills and woods. Nothing 
could be prettier ; and on the side by which I ap- 
proached there was a very neat and large church. In 
the village there are about 500 souls, but the church is 
common to this and another people about one and a halt 
versts off. The whole population to whom the church 
belongs is 1500. 500 is the lowest number which has 
a claim to have a church of its own, and very fre- 
quently two or three villages have only one church 
between them. I found the family in mourning for 



534 Visit to M. andMde. Potemkin 

the recent death of the Princess Ousoupoff, my host's 
mother. There was liturgy every morning. We 
had "breakfast in the alcove immediately after, but 
without eggs, butter, or cream, on account of the fast. 
Vespers were about seven, and the bell went for 
matins at about seven in the morning. 

The day before my arrival they killed a huge bear, 
shooting him as he was splashing the water into his 
face in the lake. The hills all round the village were 
covered with beds of strawberries, which the villagers 
take to Petersburg in great quantities to sell. The 
woods also abound with them wild. They have 
several villages on their property. One village was a 
colony of Lutheran Finns. Some of the villagers are 
free, being allowed by their master and mistress to 
purchase their freedom at an easy rate ; but this makes 
only an ideal difference between them and the rest, for 
some of them, who are still slaves, pay a fixed annual 
sum to their masters, and then work for themselves, 
or hire out their labour for what it may be worth ; 
others work for their masters three days in the week. 
The peasants here are not a very good set. They were 
very ill-used by the superintendent of the late owner, 
who got some fifty or sixty of them sent into Siberia 
for coming one evening to their master from the field, 
in the hay season, to remonstrate against him, with 
their pitchforks on their shoulders, which he repre- 



at Gortilitsa. 535 



sented as an emeute. M. Potemkin, at the urgent 
entreaty of their families, procured from the Emperor 
the pardon and return of them after seventeen years 
of absence ; but they have since been known to com- 
plain that they were better off in Siberia, where they 
were not treated as convicts, but rather as forced 
colonists. They owe their lord now between 1000 
and 2000 days' work. He provides their wooden 
cottages for them. They took me a drive in the 
evening en ligne, with four horses abreast, in most 
classical style, to see two manufactories in the neigh- 
bourhood. 



CHAPTER CXXVI. 
Religious Discussions at Gortilitsa. 



morning, after Liturgy, as we sat in the 
arcade, the priest canie to speak on some matter 
with Mde. P. He looked seventy, but really is only 
forty-five. Seeing me sitting in my gown and cassock, 
and afterwards rise to kiss his hand and ask his 
blessing, he asked whether I was of their confession of 
faith. They said that I was an Englishman ; to which 
I added that I was a deacon. He asked me what was 
the religion or confession of faith of my Church 1 Was 
it the same as theirs ? Greco-Rossiskaa 1 I said, " No, by 
no means ; I am a Christian, and my Church not G-reco- 
Russ, but Catholic and Apostolic." He looked inquir- 
ingly at Mde. P., and said, "He is then Catholic, and 
under the Pope. Roman 1 " I said, " No, neither 
Roman nor Greco-Russ, but English by country, and 
for religion only Christian and Catholic, for there is 
only one Church in all those three countries, and in 
all the world besides." He looked exceedingly puzzled, 



Religious disctissions at Gortilitsa. 537 

but repeated the text : "For there is one Body, and 
one Spirit, one Faith, one Lord, one Baptism, &c." 
M. P. explained to him that 300 years ago the English 
Church, to which I belonged, was separated from the 
other Latin Churches. 

The same day his youngest child, an infant, was 
baptized. There was a tin font with two ring handles, 
and a small napkin passed through one of them, set 
upon a low, square, wooden stand in the middle of the 
church, not very far below the end of the carpet 
representing the ambo. The font itself was much like 
in size and appearance the older and larger fonts in our 
village churches. It was about two parts full of 
water. The priest took the child quite naked from 
the nurse, and plunged it thrice, as he repeated the 
words, holding it upright, and covering its ears, eyes, 
and mouth and nostrils with his hand and fingers. 
He then gave it to the godfather, who received it 
(instructed by the nurse and godmother) in a large 
double cloth, which seemed also by gentle pressure to 
dry its body. 

I have forgotten to relate the termination of my 
conversation with the priest of the parish. He 
said, " Tell me, what do you think ? It seems to me 
that the great thing for all men is to fear Grod and do 
what is right according to their knowledge ; if they do 
this heartily, they may be saved, whatever be their 



538 Religious discussions 

external rite or opinion." I said, " I do not know ; 
God is great ; but the only way of salvation which He 
has revealed is the True Church." He observed that 
St. Peter said, " I perceive that in every nation," &c., 
Acts x. " When I think of the multitude of people, 
not only Christians who are not of our Church, but 
also of the Mahometans, Jews, &c., and some of them 
seemingly very good, I cannot bring myself to think 
that they all will be condemned for ever." I said, 
"You are not obliged to think so, only so far as 
this, if their way is opposed to the True Way, it is 
the way of death and not of life." 

One day, sitting in Mde. P.'s alcove, the Princess 
of Turkestan said that only they, the Greek or Eastern 
Christians, were right, as I was speaking of their 
want of consistency and zeal about the One True 
Church. Mde. P. also said that there were many 
who thought so, and wished to see all the Catholics 
become Greco-Russ." I laughed, and said, " I rather 
wish, and with all my heart, that all the Greco- 
Kuss may be converted to be Catholic." She smiled 
and saw her own error of language. A lady who sat 
by and heard me say so, observed, " It is simpler to 
be Christian," I supposed her to be a Calvinist 
or Lutheran, but was greatly surprised to find after- 
wards that she was herself a Roman Catholic ; but 
her father was English. She, it seems, was no less 



at Gortilitsa. 539 



surprised at me, and asked Mde. P. what I was, as 
she had supposed, from my being an Englishman, that 
her way of speaking would suit my ideas. Mde. P. 
answered that she supposed I meant that the Church 
was divided, and that ought to weigh upon our minds, 
but that it was no less the Church on that account. As 
far as it could be remedied, the Emperor would be 
glad enough to do his part; that many, nay all in a 
manner, were pained at the division, and longed for 
unity. But who is to decide questions ? What con- 
cession can each party make and safely make ? An 
Emperor to engage in it must be a theologian. If 
there ever was a time when such a thing could have 
been done, it was during the reign of Alexander, for he 
seemed to lean to every persuasion by turns. 

I read to Mde. P. the first of the two numbers in 
" Tracts for the Times " on " Eeserve." It had pleased 
me much, and made me wonder at the outcry against 
it. It struck me that if the Princess Meshchersky 
would read it and have it translated it would tend to 
open people's eyes who were now disposed only to cry 
out for more light, knowledge, &c., to the danger which 
may and will accompany it, and which she thinks 
herself inevitable. Mde. had been speaking to me of 
the force and attractiveness of the principle and doctrine 
of the Methodists, which puts all else aside, especially 
the ceremonies, the Saints and the Blessed Virgin, for 



540 Religious discussions at Gortilitsa. 

a closer and more devoted union with Christ, saying 
that they put salvation in Him alone. " Certainly," 
she said, " we have no clear knowledge of this given us 
in our Church. There is no catechetical instruction. The 
religion is only handed down, one does not know how ; 
the people learn from one another, and from their cus- 
toms. It is scarcely possible to give you an idea of the 
want of religious teaching. Certainly I can say for my- 
self that the doctrine of salvation by Christ alone was 
new. I see now that it is not, and ought not to be 
thought, opposed to Church doctrine ; but unless it 
be taught to the people, ceremonies and forms, the 
cultus of the Blessed Virgin and Saints will over- 
shadow it and obscure it. 



CHAPTER C XX VII. 

Last conversations and partings with Prince 
Michael and with the A rchpriest. 

Monday, June 28 [N.S.], I went back by Oranien- 
baum to Petersburg, and next day took leave of 
Prince Michael. He said he had talked with M. 
Skreepitsin about unity, and they agreed that it would 
be a very good thing if the Emperor would build a 
handsome church in London, and have the services cele- 
brated in English there. I said, " And if he would found 
and keep a small monastery at Oxford." Skreepitsin had 
agreed with me in praise of the Archimandrite Philaret. 
I said, " Nothing can be done by us till we have settled 
the controversy of life and death among ourselves. 
When the ' New Sect ' gets the ascendency all will be 
in effect done, but now we can do nothing." 

Wednesday, June 30 [ir.s]. I saw M. Mouravieff at 
the Synod, and was invited to be present on Friday to 
witness the nomination of Athanasius, the Rector of 
the Seminary to be Bishop of Tomsk. 



542 Last conversations and partings with 

On Thursday, July 1 [N.S.], I called on, and took 
leave of the Archpriest Koutnevich, and he talked to 
me of my visit to Moscow. He hoped I should retain 
a friendly recollection of the Russian Church after my 
return to England. I said I could never feel like the 
Metropolitan of Moscow, who was " plenissime beatus" 
in having the communion of only a part, even though 
it was the largest part, as the Roman, or the most per- 
fect and purest, as he might think the Eastern. 

He said, <c We desire unity most heartily, but we 
cannot, in order to obtain it, make little of those doc- 
trines or rules of conduct which we have received from 
antiquity." He also said that if, as I seemed to think, 
the true Church is divided, and the Eastern particular 
Church perfect or nearly so, so as to be justified in 
refusing her communion to the Latin and British till 
they reform, and if the Latin and British, in spite of more 
or less of error or corruption, have preserved their 
essential existence, what is left to both parties but to 
cultivate such friendship and charity on the basis of 
what we have in common, as may flow from a common 
desire to be true followers of Christ, and to obtain, if it 
be His will, eventual unity 1 

I said, " I think the divided portions of the Church, 
and divided members too, even individuals, should 
never rest till they are reconciled, and if your portion 
of the Church is perfect, it should help ours, which I 



Prince Michael and tlu A rchpriest. 543 

freely confess is very imperfect." " How could we be 
a help to you?" he replied. "For instance," I said, 
"if you could give communion to members of the 
Latin and British Churches on the ground of those 
essentials which they agree with you in holding. If 
the true Church is really divided, a more fatal error 
cannot be conceived than this, viz., that the more 
healthy and perfect part should withdraw, as you now 
do, from the body ; for, by withdrawing, it loses all 
influence whatever, and makes the case of the rest 
desperate ; whereas, by closely cohering and using its 
healthy influence upon the rest, it might expel the dis- 
ease. If, on the other hand, the Latin and British 
Churches were really apostate in the strictest sense of 
the word, your withdrawal would be justified indeed, 
but your want of zeal, energy, and power to evan- 
gelize and convert them, and your inconsistency in 
still virtually acknowledging them to have part in 
the Church, would be utterly inexcusable and 
inconceivable." 

He said, "Our Church would most willingly do 
whatever she rightly could for the restoration of unity, 
which she much desires ; and if your Bishops would 
only write to the Synod, the Synod, I can answer for 
it, will show every disposition to correspond with them, 
and consider, and examine, and treat of whatever they 
propose." I answered, " That does not seem at all 



544 Last conversations and partings with 

likely, or indeed possible, at present for various rea- 
sons, political as well as religious. We have too much 
to do at home first. I only wish that in the mean- 
time we may on each side cultivate a better and more 
accurate knowledge of each other." 

He suggested also that the Church of England 
should resume the correspondence of the last century ; 
to which I replied that the present Anglican Esta- 
blished Church could never admit herself to have been 
represented by the non-juring Bishops, or take up and 
confirm a correspondence begun by them ; the Scottish 
indeed perhaps might. But there was, I said, in my 
opinion, a radical fault in that correspondence, in this, 
that it assumed essential division to exist, and proposed 
a vague treaty for concessions ; whereas our best and 
simplest and only safe course would be to do by a 
Synodal act the very same thing which I have now 
done myself as an individual, viz., redemand our 
ancient intercommunion on the assumption that we 
have preserved on both sides continuously one and the 
same immutable faith, thereby calling in question the 
rightfulness of our actual separation, and throwing it 
on the Orientals to make their objections, and show 
cause for repelling us, we offering at the same time all 
explanations which may be called for on essential doc- 
trine, and such concessions as may be prudent or possible 
in secondary matters of opinion, discipline, or ritual. 



Prince Michael and the Archpriest. 545 

I gave him on parting a copy of Bishop Andrewes's 
" Private Devotions," in Greek and Latin, which he 
seemed much to value, noticing that they contained 
Prayers for the departed, the Intercession of Saints, 
the Eulogy of the Blessed Virgin, and faith in the 
Eeal Presence. He gave me in turn a copy of 
Archbishop Platon's " Notices of Eussian Ecclesiastical 
History." 



CHAPTER CXXVIII. 
Last conversation and par ting with M. Skreepitsin. 

r I 1HE same day T took leave also of M. Skreepitsin, 
"*" one of the High Procurator's assistants, like 
M. Mouravieff. He has since become the head of an 
under department to the Minister of Public Instruction 
for all merely tolerated religions. He is a most 
engaging and estimable young man, and was charged 
with the Eepresentation of the Civil Power in 
Lithuania, at the time of the return of the Uniats. 
He received me with the utmost cordiality, and would 
have it that I should come to them again officially ; 
and, on my saying, as I had often, and all along, said 
before, that I had no sort of public mission, but had 
merely come to Russia for my own private studies, 
and that my demand for communion was also a merely 
personal act, without any shadow of authority or 
approbation, except from one old man, Dr. Routh, and 
that too, only incidental to my other and more imine- 



Last Conversation with M. Skreepitsin. 547 

diate objects so that there was no chance whatever 
of my visit to Kussia leading to any public act ; nor in 
any case, supposing our Church were disposed to open 
communications, should I be at all a likely person to 
be employed, he said, " Surely, having been already 
here, and knowing the language and our Church, you 
would be the man." And he seemed quite unwilling 
to believe my assurances, to believe that nothing was 
likely to be done from authority on our part, to open 
communications. 

He said : " The Synod would be most happy and 
forward to remove all difficulties, and meet you half- 
way ; so I hope the English Bishops would write to it. 
And I can tell you, the Government would like 
nothing better, if it could be. And there is a very 
deep feeling also among our people against Kome. I 
confess, this feeling is not always confined within due 
limits ; but still, it would make many, from their 
political antipathies, view with favour any attempt in 
another direction, after that unity, which must always 
be the object of the prayers of all good Christians. 

In speaking of the Metropolitan of Moscow's answer 
to my letter, I said, he had answered it just as if I 
had admitted the actual separation of the English and 
Russian Churches, and had put myself forward to open 
a treaty or negotiation for the renewal of communi- 
cation between them. He said I must not think the 
N n 2 



548 Parting with M. Skreepitsin. 

Metropolitan wished to answer coldly to my letter ; 
for, in truth he, like all of them, had been much 
pleased with my visit to Eussia, and there was no 
single person among them who would be more de- 
lighted than the Metropolitan to be enabled to enter 
upon a public negotiation for unity. " However," he 
continued, " in replying to you as an individual, and 
himself as a diocesan Bishop, he would no doubt be 
afraid of committing himself, and so might seem to 
answer less directly than you could have wished. But 
you may depend upon it, he is just the man of all of 
us who most desires that your Bishops should write to 
the Synod ; and I hope they will write to it. 



CHAPTER CXXIX. 
Parting with the Priest Fortunatoff. 

r I 1HE same evening I went to bid the Priest 
"* Eortunatoff good-bye, and drank tea with him. 
He said that Professor Bozolubsky and he had talked 
about me and the English Church. He said he was 
quite sure that the Synod would make unity, if our 
bishops would write, and a very great blessing it 
would be ; but your Church would have to make 
explanations previously ; and he said, " There is a 
point which has been suggested to me, as involving a 
difference, on which I should like to know what you 
say ; and that is the Adoration of the Eucharist " 
(which was indeed one of the points on which the 
Kon- Jurors broke off their correspondence) " for we 
adore it." I answered, " I see no necessary difference 
between us here, for if we adore the corporal, the 
altar, relics, and pictures, much more the Holy 
Eucharist." " Yes," he answered, " but those adora- 
tions are widely different ; for we adore the Eucharist 



5 SO Parting with the Priest Fortunatoff. 

with Divine worship, as being the very body of 
Christ." This led to a serious discussion. 

He said, after all, " We knew here, in Kussia, very 
little of your Church ; you have done a great thing 
in opening the way to a better acquaintance; your 
bishops should write ; our Synod would be very glad 
to answer and confer with them ; and I think it would 
succeed." I explained that, in our present state and 
circumstances we can do nothing. He said, "We 
have not in Russia copies nor knowledge of your 
symbolical books, and books of canons and laws of the 
Church. These should be sent to us. Now that you 
have made a beginning others will follow your ex- 
ample, and come from England to study our Church. 
We ought, by all means, to have a good church in 
London, and you one here." 



CHAPTER CXXX. 

Last conversation and parting with Count Pra- 
tasoff. Last words with M. Mouravieff and 
M. Skreepitsin. 

Friday, July 2, after having been present at the 
Synod to witness the nomination to the Bishop- 
ric of Tomsk, of the Archimandrite Athanasius, whom 
I had known as Hector of the Seminary, I took leave 
of the Count Pratasoff. He said that the chaplaincy 
of the Russian Embassy at London was now vacant, 
and they wished to send a chaplain who might be able 
to learn the English language, and to study our 
divinity ; and intended to require him to make them 
reports from time to time on the state of ecclesiastical 
matters and opinions in the English Church; that 
they would be much obliged to me if I would call upon 
him when he came, and make his acquaintance, and 
put him in the way of becoming acquainted with 
religious matters and with some of our clorgy. He 
said it would be necessary to send a young man, 



552 Last words with Count Pratasoff, 

since after a certain age it is not easy to learn a strange 
language. He then expressed abundance of good 
wishes and interest about myself personally, and on 
bidding me good-bye, embraced me after the foreign way, 
and said he hoped that what was the wish of all of us 
would in due time be accomplished. 

I was about to leave the Synod, when M. Moura- 
vieff and M. Skreepitsin, who had waited on purpose, 
stopped me to bid me good-bye. The former repeated 
what the latter had said already, his assurance that the 
Metropolitan of Moscow, who, I suppose, had heard 
from him of my dissatisfaction, had no intention of 
replying coldly to my letter. " For," he said, " the 
impression you have made upon the Metropolitan and 
upon all of us is most favourable to your Church. 
We have all had the greatest pleasure in conversing 
with you, and I must say, though you are only a 
deacon, yet the cause of your Church could not have 
been better represented." 

Here I interrupted, to say, in answer to this last 
compliment, that really I must once more disclaim all 
pretension whatever to represent or misrepresent my 
Church, otherwise than as every individual of a body 
must necessarily do more or less one or the other by 
his private words and conduct ; but for myself I came 
merely and simply for my own personal studies. 
" But," he said, " you will of course let your superiors 



M. Mouravieff, and M. Skreepitsin. 553 

and bishops know the result of your journey 1" I said, 
" I have nothing to do in this matter with any bishop, 
nor do I see any good end to be answered by making 
any report or communication to the public, or to any 
other authority, excepting only to the President of my 
College, who did indeed approve and assist me in my 
design. Nothing could be done, so far as I can see, 
by the authorities of the English Church, even if they 
were themselves all of one mind, and held such 
opinions as to make it possible for you to any good 
purpose to treat with them, until their flocks also 
should be similarly disposed, and the public feeling in 
our Church very different from what it is now." 

" But," he said, " you will publish something ? " 
"Yes," I answered, "I hope to do so; my original 
intention in coming out was to learn the language, in 
order to publish translations of some of your books, 
and also to make myself acquainted with your Church, 
as I did previously with other churches and commu- 
nities." I added that what I regretted in the Metro- 
politan's answer was merely this, that he had seemed 
to mistake the ground on which I asked for com- 
munion, as if I had presumed to attempt to open a 
communication between churches mutually excommuni- 
cated, whereas communion, whatever part of the Church 
I was in, was a personal duty, an act of submission 
to a superior, as well as a right and a privilege. 



554 Last words with M. Mouravieff. 

He answered, " Nothing, I can assure you, was less 
in his thoughts than to accuse you of any such undue 
presumption. With respect to the communion, though 
as things are there are obstacles to our giving it to 
you, I hope the time may come when it may be 
otherwise ; meanwhile we must on both sides content 
ourselves with the consciousness that there is a unity 
of spirit between us, and a desire, ours not less than 
yours, of a visible and formal union." 

He then took a most friendly leave of me, and made 
me promise to write to him. 



CHAPTER CXXXL 
Rettirn to England and Oxford. 

Saturday, July 15 [N.S.], I took leave of Mr. 

Blackmore. He delivered to me his translation 
of Mouravieff s " History of the Russian Church," to 
revise and publish in England. On Monday, the 24th, 
I left for home, by way of Lubeck and Hamburg, 
and was at Oxford a few days after reaching it. 



APPENDIX. 

No. I. 

EUSSIAN ECCLESIASTICAL PUBLICATIONS 

(vid. supra, p. 90) . 

FEIDAY, August 16 [o.s.] 28 [N.S.], 1840. Books to be 
bought and read : 

1. An Historical Examination of the Kormchay, by the 
late Baron Eosenkampf, printed by the Society of History 
and Antiquities in the University of Moscow, 8vo, 1829. 

2. An imperfect MS. work of the same writer, and on the 
same subject, lent by Mr. Law. 

3. The Novaia Skrijal, or New Tablet, being a commentary 
and explanation of the Services and Kites of the Church, 
8 vo, 1836, sixth ed., called " New " in contradistinction to 
the older book on the same subject and under the same title, 
published in 1658. 

4. The Spiritual Regulation, the fundamental statute of 
the present State Church, published at the Synodal Press, 
with an Appendix concerning Priests and Monks, and 
another Ordinance concerning Mixed Marriages, 1820. 

5. Order for the coronation of the Emperor Paul, with the 
Act regulating the Imperial succession, which was read aloud 
by Paul after his coronation, and placed by him on the altar 
of the Church of the Assumption at Moscow. At the 
Synodal Press. 

6. Forms for the Nomination and Consecration of Bishops, 



558 Appendix. 



and Oath to be taken by them. And instruction on the 
duties of the Ober-Prokuror of the Synod, and the oath to be 
taken by him. 

7. Rule of the Spiritual Consistories. 

8. On the duties of Parish Priests, by George Koniisky, 
Archbishop of Mohileff. At the Synodal Press, Moscow, 
28th ed., 1838. 

9. Episcopal instruction to a newly ordained priest, given, 
to him printed at his ordination. Synod. Press, 1815 and 
1838. 

10. Instructions to a dean or inspector of churches, with 
a list of the churches placed under his jurisdiction. Moscow, 
1835. 

11. Instruction to the same, being a monk, 1828. 

12. Rule of a Coenobite Monastery. 

13. Forms for the reception of proselytes from Judaism, 
Mohammedanism, Heathenism, Popery, Lutheranism, and 
Calvinism, entitled "The order for those who are to be 
united from heterodox Communities to the Orthodox, 
Catholic, Eastern Church." Moscow, 1838. 

14. State Papers, 5 vols. fol. 

15. Acts of the Archseological Commission ; quarto, still 
publishing. 

16. Platen's Short History of the Russian Church. 2 
^ ols. octavo. Third ed. Moscow, 1829. The first edition 
published in his old age, 1805. 

17. History of the Russian Hierarchy, in six parts, by 
Ambrosius, Bishop of Penza and Saratoff. Moscow, 1811 
1822. 

18. Of the Synods held in Russia, down to the time of 
John IV. Basilievich. Petersburg; at the press of the 
medical department of the Ministry for the Interior, 1829. 

19. A Dissertation by George Koniisky, showing that 



Appendix. 559 



there was no Unia in Lithuania and Polish Russia before 
that of 1582. 

20. Historical Dictionary of such as have attained 
sanctity, and have been canonized in the Russian Church. 
1836. 

21. Apparitions or manifestations of miraculous Icons of 
the Blessed Virgin in Russia. With plates. Moscow, 1838. 

22. Historical Dictionary of writers of the clergy of the 
Grseco- Russian Church, by Eugenius, Bishop of Pskoff. 
2 vols. octavo. Glazonnoff, second ed., 1827. 

23. Armenian History. 2 vols. octavo. Being a trans- 
lation of the History of Moses Chorenensis. 

24. Argontinsky Dolgorouki (Archbishop). Translation of 
the Armenian Office for Baptism, and of the Liturgy, and 
an exposition of the Faith of the Armenian Church . 1799. 

25. History of the Georgian Church, by Josselian. Tiflis. 

26. History of the Georgian Hierarchy. Moscow, 1826. 

27. Nicholas Rowndiff. History of Russian Schismatics. 
Moscow, 1838. 

28. Of the Strigolnics, and of other heretics called Starob- 
rats ; by the Proto-presbyter Andrew Joannoff. Octavo, 1831. 

29. Adam Zcernikav. On the Procession of the Holy 
Ghost from the Father only. 2 vols., small quarto, in Latin. 
Baturini in Parv. Russia, 1682 ; but printed at Kcenigsburg, 
1774 ; and at Petersburg later in a Greek ed., 2 vols. fol. 
[1797], by Archbishop Eugenius Bulgaris. 

30. Theophanis Procopovich Theologia ; containing a 
treatise on the Procession of the Holy Ghost, taken from 
the work of Zcernikav, which Theophanes saw and used in 
MS. at Kieff before 1715. 

31. Works of Demetrius, Archbishop of Rostoff, who died 
in 1709. This writer, like Stephen Yavorsky, is quite 
opposed to Protestantism, and differs but little from Rome 



560 Appendix. 



on other points of detail; only on the subject of the Proces- 
sion of the Holy Ghost he is Greek, and, like all the non- 
united divines of Little Russian origin, he prefers the 
spiritual supremacy of the Tsar to that of the Pope. His 
works make four thick octavo volumes, without reckoning 
his Compilation of Lives of the Saints, in twelve volumes, 
one for each month. Moscow, 1842. 

32. Stephen Yavorsky, Metropolitan of Eiazan, a little 
Russian like Demetrius Rostoffsky ; called guardian of the 
Patriarchal Chair from A.D. 1700 to 1721 ; and then President 
of the Spiritual College or Synod. He wrote in 1713-14, 
a work entitled Kamen Vieri, " the Stone or Rock of the 
Faith," against the Protestants, in a spirit quite opposed to 
that of Theophanes Procopovich. But Peter did not allow 
him to publish it. It was published first in 1723, some years 
after his death, at Moscow ; and the latest edition of it is 
that of the Synodal Press, also at Moscow, in 1841. 

33. Tichon of Zadonsk, Bishop of Voronege and Eetz 
(canonized A.D. 1861). His works in fifteen parts, octavo. 
At the Synodal Press, 1836. They are remarkable for 
the almost total omission of everything that is ecclesiastical, 
so that their spiritual piety would seem to Protestants akin 
to their own, though they might not discover in them any 
positively Protestant statements. But, if they are compared 
with the writings of Demetrius of Rostoff and Stephen 
Yavorsky, they may be said in a general way to approach 
very near to Protestantism, just as the writings of Demetrius 
and Stephen approach very near to Roman Catholicism. 

34. Alphabet Duchovni. One vol. octavo. Against the 
Raskolniks. 

35. Rozisk ; against the same. 

36. Jezl Pravlenia, the Staff of Rule ; against the same. 

37. Prashchitsa, the Sling ; against the same. 



Appendix. 561 



38. The Gazette de S. Petersbourg often contains articles 
of interest giving information on Ecclesiastical as well as 
other matters. 

39. The Civil Almanack for 1840. 

40. Keport of the Ober-Prokuror for 1840. 

41. Eeport of the Minister of Public Instruction for 1840. 

42. Sunday Eeadings ; a religious newspaper. Published 
at Kieff. 

43. Christian Reading ; a religious monthly periodical. 
Petersburg. 

44. Works of the Holy Fathers, translated into Russ by 
the Moscow Spiritual Academy ; with an Appendix, consist- 
ing of Russian spiritual articles. All these three publica- 
tions contain occasionally old ecclesiastical documents and 
notices on ecclesiastical subjects. 

45. The Catalogue of all the works published and sold 
by the Synod at the Synodal bookshops at Petersburg and 
Moscow. In this catalogue are contained the following in 
Russ : 

1. St. Ambrose. On Repentance. Two books. 1842. 

Select Sermons ; 1806. On the Sacerdotal Order. 
Moscow, 1823. On their duties. Moscow, 1840. 

2. St. Gregory Naz. Homilies. Two parts. 3rd ed., 

1839. 

3. St. Ephrem Syrus. Book of godly labours. Four 
parts. Moscow, 1840. 

4. St. John Chrysostom. Sermons on Repentance 
and for divers festivals. Moscow, 1816. On the 
Priesthood. M., 1829. On St. Matthew (in modern 
Russ). Three parts. M., 1839. On Epistle to 
Romans (Modern Russ). M., 1839. On Galatians. 
M., 1842. On Philippians and 1 Corinthians. 
2nd ed. M., 1840. 

o 



562 Appendix. 



5. St. John Xiphilinus. Instructions. 

6. St Basil. Instructions on the Psalms. 2nd. ed. 
Petersb., 1825. Sermons, Various. 2nd ed. Pet., 
1824. Moral Sermons, by Metaphrastes. 2nd 
ed. P., 1824. Moral. M,. 1838. Hexameron. 

7. St, Justin Mart. Tryphon. M., 1822. 

8. St. Dionysius Areop. The Heav. Hierarchy (Modern 

Euss). M., 1839. 

9. St. Cyril Jerus. Catechetic. 3rd ed. (Modern 
Kuss). M., 1824. 

10. St. John Climacus. The Ladder. M., 1836. 

11. St. Macarius of Egypt. Spiritual Disc. Two 

parts. M., 1839. 

12. St. Maximus. On Charity. , 3rd ed. M., 1839. 

13. St. Peter Chrysol. Instruct. Two vols. M., 
1822. 

14. St. John, Damasc. Orthodox Faith. 3rd ed. M., 
1834. 

October 28 [o.s.] Nov. 9 [N.S.] 1840. I went on this 
day to live en pension with a young priest, Fr. J. B. Fortu- 
natoff. I lived with him four months in all ; and read with 
him, Slavonic and Kussian books, when he was at leisure, 
assisting at the services in his church. In this way I read 
through,!. The Priest's Service Book. 2. The Office 
Book, or Kitual. 3. Bishop's Service Book, or Ordinal. 
4. Great part of the TnjSaXioi/, or Nomocanon. (Also, 
a MS. Essay on the Slavonic and Kussian Nomocanon, by 
the late Baron Eosenkempf, lent me by Mr. Blackmore, from 
Mr. Law.) 5. Passages of the Oustar, or Book of Eubrics. 
6. And, of the Triods, the Octoich, and the Twelve 
Volumes containing the variable monthly services. 7. The 
New Table of the Ceremonial of the Easterns, by Venia- 



Appendix. 563 



minoff. 8. Dmetreffsky on the Liturgy. 9. Mouravieff's 
Letters on Eastern Services ; and, 10. The Header's Psalter. 
Also, Platon's History of the Russian Church, given me by 
the Archpriest. 

Besides these, I then, or afterward?, procured most of the 
other books accessory for the Service of the Church ; and 
many others bearing on Divinity or History, in all, perhaps, 
about 360 volumes. 



2 



564 Appendix. 



No. II. 

THE BRITISH NON-JURING BISHOPS AND THE 
ORIENTAL PATRIARCHS. 

HAVING repeatedly heard mention, since my arrival in 
Russia, of that Correspondence of the Oriental Patriarchs 
with the British (non-juring) Bishops in the time of 
Peter I., with a view to ecclesiastical unity, of which Dr. 
Routh had already spoken to me, and to which the recent 
reception of the Uniates by the Russian Church, and the 
consequent republication in Russ, of documents of the 
seventeenth century, illustrative of its faith, had given a 
new interest [vid. supr. pp. 63 72], I asked Count Pratasoff 
to let me see the MSS. belonging to it, as far as they 
are contained in the Synodal Archives. Accordingly, on 
March 4 [o.s.] 16 [N.S.] M. Mouravieff took me into the 
Synodal Chancery, and caused the MSS. to be brought out 
for my inspection, it being understood that they were not to 
be copied, though writing materials were furnished for any 
notes or extracts I might wish to make. 

They consisted of three thin folio pamphlets, in marble- 
paper covers ; and a fourth cover, containing a small 
collection of Letters and Translation of Letters. They were 
in four languages English, Greek, Latin, and Russ. 

Of the three pamphlets, the third contained the Liturgy 
[Mass service] of the British Bishops, in Greek ; the second, 
was the first, in Latin. The first was in Greek, and con- 



Appendix. 565 



tained the Rejoinder [May 30, 1722] of the British Bishops 
to the first answer of the Patriarchs [1718]. This Rejoinder 
they had requested the Russian Synod to transmit for them 
to the Patriarchs ; and the Patriarchs, in consequence, after 
having read it, returned it, with their own final answer or 
Ultimatum [1723], and the XVIII. Bethlehem Articles, to 
the Russian Synod, together with the rest of the MSS. in 
their possession. This will explain why so many documents, 
belonging to the Correspondence, are to be found at Peters- 
burg. 

Here I interrupt my account of them, to observe that, at 
a later date, I received a present of a MS. translation, in 
Russ, of the first answer of the Patriarchs [1718], (embodying 
the original Proposals of the British [1716]), with its 
appendices. 

Also, 1 have to notice that at a later date, after my return 
to England, I received from Dr. Routh a MS. copy of the 
original Proposals of the British Bishops [1716], apparent^ 
made at the time that those Proposals were sent. Also I 
received from a friend a copy of the whole correspondence 
in full, as preserved in English, Greek, and Latin, in Scot- 
land, in Bishop Jolly's library. In this copy I first noticed 
two remarkable Letters from the Russian Synod to the 
British Bishops, showing a spirit very different from that of 
the Eastern Patriarchs ; and another from the High Chan- 
cellor Gallofskin, dropping the correspondence on the death 
of Peter, but promising that the Imperial Government 
would cause it to be resumed on the first favourable oppor- 
tunity. 1 

Thus much as regards the three pamphlets ; as to the 

b& 

1 [These three letters, being given at length in the Rev. 

George Williaras's careful work, " The Orthodox Church of the 
East " (Rivingtons, 1868), need not be printed here.] 



566 Appendix. 



fourth cover of quarto size, the Letters which I noticed in it 
were these : 

1. One, of the date of May 30, 1722, signed by Archi- 
bald Primus, Scoto-Britanniae Episcopus ; Jacobus, Scoto- 
Britannise Ep. ; Jeremias, Anglo-Brit. Ep. : and Thomas, 
Anglo-Brit. Ep. ; and sent per Gennadium Archimandritam 
ad Jacobum Proto-syncellum, acknowledging the receipt of 
the first Answer of the Patriarchs, communicating to the 
Russian Synod a Latin copy of their Rejoinder, and begging 
them to send on the Greek copy to the Patriarchs. 

2. A Letter from the Synod to the Patriarchs, dated 
March 6, 1723, written in a very pleasing style, and with 
an apparent desire of unity, speaking of having received 
the preceding No. 1, about the end of 1722, and signed by 
Theodorus, Metropolitan of Novgorod ; Theophanes (Pro- 
copovich), Archbishop of Pskoff; Leonidas, Bishop of 
Krontinsk ; Gabriel, Archimandrite of the Lavra of the 
Holy Trinity; Theophylact of the Choudoff; three other 
Archimandrites, one Hegumen, and one Archpriest. 

3. A Letter, marked 86, of the date July 14, 1724, from 
the Archimandrite Gennadius to the Synod, stating that 
ft the Scottish and English Bishops are quite ready, accord- 
ing to the Synod's proposal, to send two of their brethren." 
" I said to the High Chancellor and to the Archbishop of 
Thebais, that it should be so," reports the writer, " at the 
desire of the Synod here in Session ; but difficulties have 
occurred to delay their departure ; so they have charged the 
Proto-syncellus to return to Russia with their apology." 
And he says he will send his own nephew with the two 
delegates in the next spring. 

4. In the same envelope is contained a Letter from the 
Scotch and English Bishops to the Synod, in Latin, begging 
the Synod to communicate their thanks to the Emperor, 



Appendix. 567 



dated London, July 13, 1724, and to the same effect as the 
preceding letter of Gennadius, signed by Bishops Archi- 
baldus, Jeremias, Thomas, and Joannes. 

5. In the fourth envelope, " The Catholic Bishops of the 
British Churches " to the Synod, the same as the above, 
only in English. (N.B. I should add that there are transla- 
tions into Kuss of all the Letters, as well as the originals.) 

6. In the fifth sheet, another from the British, on the 
death of the Emperor, hoping that the Empress, his relict, 
would be equally favourable, and addressed to the Synod, 
" The mission of our two delegates," they write, " we 
have in consequence delayed, till we hear further from you." 
London, April 11, 1725 ; signed by Bishops " Archibaldus, 
Jeremias, and Joannes." 

The chief observations which I made upon the corre- 
spondence, both at the time that I first saw the MSS. in the 
Synodal Chancery and afterwards, were to the following 
effect : 

1. Both the Eussian Synod and the British Bishops 
seemed to treat of a peace to be made by way of mutual 
concession without clearly laying down first the unity and 
continuity of the true Faith in the true Church. The 
Greek Patriarchs indeed are quite free from this charge, for 
they treated distinctly enough for the conversion of the 
British to the Eastern, as to the one true Catholic Church. 
But the British placed themselves at a great disadvantage 
by making vague proposals without distinctly advancing 
their claim to have preserved throughout the Catholic faith t 
without professing to seek only the renewal of that union 
which once existed, and consequently to be unable to do 
more than explain in essentials, though in secondary 
matters of description or ritual they might concede. 



568 Appendix. 



2. The British seem, however, to have surmounted some 
of those primd facie difficulties which stand in the way of 
union. They came to an agreement with the Easterns on 
the great point of the " Procession " and the interpolation 
of the Creed. They agreed readily on the number ot the 
Ecclesiastical Mysteries or Sacraments, the Eastern on their 
side acknowledging the distinction between the two and the 
other five. They disclaimed the error of the Iconoclasts, 
admitting the use of images and pictures, and even seeming 
to offer to receive the Second Nicene Council, if only the 
Easterns would consent to sanction some " explanation " and 
caution against abuses. They freely owned the Intercession 
of the Saints ; the Real Presence, by virtue of consecration, 
in the Eucharist, and the use of prayers and oblations for 
the departed, and the fact of degrees, and of a preparation 
and improvement, in the condition of souls in the inter- 
mediate state, &c., &c. And they confessed distinctly the 
inspiration 2 of the Church and her indefectibility. 

3. The Easterns also, though their general tone was 
repulsive, yet made considerable approaches and showed 
moderation upon some points, especially in this that they 
offered to be content with some distinct mention of the 
Intercession of the Saints in prayers addressed to God, on 
the part of the British, even though the British should 
hesitate or refuse to admit any direct addresses whatever 
either to saints or angels. 

4. On the other hand, the British seem on some points to 
have stopped short of what some of their own best divines 
teach or admit, and so to have made matters worse rather 
than better. Reasoning strenuously against Transubstan- 

2 [This opinion goes beyond what the Catholic Church teaches 
of her own gift, which is really a divine superintendence and 
protection from error.] 



Appendix. 569 



tiation, they seem to reject that idea of a change, transele- 
meutation, or transmutation, which the Church has always 
held, and to seek to substitute the modern phrase of " a 
True and Eeal Presence," to be used exclusively, instead of 
the language of Christ Himself, of St. Cyril of Jerusalem, 
and of St. Basil's Liturgy. Also, they reason at length 
against the Adoration of the Eucharist, the Invocation of 
Saints and Angels, and the Veneration of Holy Pictures, as 
if these things involved in the strictest sense idolatry and 
heresy, which yet, at the end of their rejoinder, they neu- 
tralize and seemingly waive all their preceding arguments 
by proposing a conference, and offering to leave the 
Easterns in full possession of their belief and practice on all 
the above points, and to make a "solid union" with them 
notwithstanding, on the strange condition that they shall 
be themselves allowed to reject openly the same belief and 
practice throughout the whole united communion of their 
respective Churches. 

5. Lastly, the Easterns themselves seem in some respects 
to have increased rather than diminished existing diffi- 
culties, especially by insisting most strongly on the whole 
popish definition of Transubstantiation by substance and 
accidents, and by sending, as their ultimatum, the XVIII. 
(Bethlehem) Articles of Dositheus, a confession which, 
though orthodox in substance, is yet far from being free 
from all taint of Latinism. They also, strangely enough, 
asserted that it was unlawful, nay even absurd, to pray to 
God for lesser temporal blessings in the Name of Christ. 
But these exaggerations were modified, if not altogether 
removed, by the language of the Eussian Synod, in trans- 
mitting the documents from the Patriarchs to England ; 
and the same Synod, only a few years ago, by publishing a 
catechism in the name of the Church without the Eoman 

P p 



570 Appendix. 



definition of the Eucharistic Presence (by substance and 
accidents) and by introducing corrections into the authorized 
translation, has made it impossible for itself, on any further 
renewal of negotiations for unity, to object those XVIII 
Articles to the British bishops, as having been already 
sent as the ultimatum of the whole Eastern Church, and 
being in their wording incapable of modification. 

I end with the remark that the correspondence seems to 
have altogether originated in the Scottish bishop [Archibald] 
Campbell, who in the year 1716 was resident in London, 
acting there as the representative of his brethren for all that 
related to their communion. And, besides the other two 
Scotch bishops, Gadderar and Eattray, the English non- 
juring bishops, viz. Collier, SpinkeF, Hawes, Brett, Gandy, 
and Griffin, who took part personally at one time or another 
in this correspondence, all owed their consecration to the 
Scottish bishops, Campbell and Gadderar, no less than to 
the English Hickes, who died in 1715. Nor has either the 
whole or any part of what Scottish bishops did in this 
matter ever been blamed or disavowed by their Church since, 
nor, so far as it appears, by any one of the other Scotch 
bishops who were living at the time, and for whom Bishop 
Campbell acted. 

Of course the present English Establishment is in no way 
connected with the correspondence, otherwise than so far as 
it may be implicated by its subsequent re-establishrnent of 
communion with the Scottish Church. 



Appendix. 57 l 



No. III. 

LIST OF ME. PALMER'S WRITINGS, 
Drawn up from Dr. Bloxam's Magdalen College Register. 

1. INTEODUCTION to the Thirty-nine Articles. Latin. 
Printed, not published. 1840. (Tid. ch. i. above.] 

2. Speech at the Meeting of the Society for Promoting 
Christian Knowledge. 1840. 

3. Letter to the Rev. C. P. Golightly, on his charging 
certain members of the University with dishonesty. Oxford, 
1841. 

4. Aids to Reflexion on the seemingly double character 
of the Established Church. Oxford, 1841. 

5. A Protest against the Jerusalem Bishopric. Not pub- 
lished. 1842. 

6. On an announcement in the Prussian State Gazette, 
concerning a Bishop in Jerusalem. Oxford, 1842. 

7. A Letter to a Protestant Catholic. Oxford, 1842. 

8. Short Poems and Hymns, the latter mostly translations. 
Oxford, 1843. 

9. A Harmony of Anglican Doctrine with the Doctrine 
of the Eastern Church. Aberdeen, 1846. 

10. The same translated into Greek. 'A%ak, 1851. 

11. An Appeal to the Scottish Bishops,[ &c." Edinburgh, 
1849. 

12. Taneivr) dva<popa rols 7ra.Tpidp%ais ^A.drjvals, 1850. 



572 Appendix. 



13. Atarpt/3at Trepi T^s* 'AyyXiKT/v'EKKA^fTias'. 'AQrjvais, 1851. 

14. AiaTpilBaiTreplTrjs dvaTo\iKTJSfKK\r]a-ias. 'A^i/at?, 1852. 

15. Dissertations concerning the Orthodox Communion. 
London, 1853. 

16. Remarks on the Turkish Question. London, 1858. 

17. Early Christian Symbolism. London, 1859. 

18. Egyptian Chronicles. Two vols. London, 1861. 

19. Commentatio in Librum Danielis. Eomse, 1874 

20. The Patriarch Nicon. Six vols. octavo Triibner. 
18711876. 



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DOBELL, Mrs. Horace. Kthelstone, Eveline, and other Poems. 
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DOBSON, Austin. Vignettes in Rhyme, and Vers de Societe. 
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ELDRYTH, Maud. Margaret, and other Poems. Small crown 8vo, 
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Kegan Paul, Trench & Cols Publications. 35 

English Odes. Selected, with a Critical Introduction by EDMUND W. 

GOSSE, and a miniature frontispiece by Hamo Thornycroft, 

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js. 6d. 
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36 A List of 



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MACLEAN, Charles Donald. Latin and Greek Verse Transla- 
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MORICE, Rev. F. D., M.A.tti& Olympian and Pythian Odes 

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NOEL, The Hon. Roden.K Little Child's Monument. Second 
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Kegan Paid, Trench & Go's Publications. 37 

O'HAGAN, John. The Song of Roland. Translated into English 
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38 A List of 

SKINNER, James. Coelestia. The Manual of St. Augustine. The 
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TA YLOR, Sir H. Works Complete in Five Volumes. Crown Svo, 30^. 

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Kegan Pattl, Trench & Go's Publications. 39 

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40 A List of 

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Kegan Paul, Trench & Go's Publications. 41 

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42 A List of 



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Aunt Mary's Bran Pie. By the Author of " St. Olave's." Illustrated. 
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COLERIDGE, Sara. Pretty Lessons in Verse for Good 
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D'ANVERS, N. R. Little Minnie's Troubles : an Every-day 
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DA VIES, G. Christopher. Rambles and Adventures of our 
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DRUMMOND, Miss. Tripp's Buildings. A Study from Life, with 
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EDMONDS, Herbert. Well Spent Lives : a Series of Modern Bio- 
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EVANS, Mark.T^Q Story of our Father's Love, told to Children. 
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FARQUHARSON, M. 

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HERFORD, Bro9ke.-^\iQ Story of Religion in England : a Book 
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Kegan Paid, Trench & Go's Publications. 43 

INGELOW, Jean. The Little 'Wonder-horn. With 15 Illustra- 

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LEANDER, Richard. Fantastic Stories. Translated from the 
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LEWIS, Mary A. A Rat with Three Tales. New and Cheaper 
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44 A List of Kegan Paul, Trench & Go's Piiblications. 

REANEY,Mrs. G. S. continued. 

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STRETTON, ffesba.'Da.vi^. Lloyd's Last Will. With 4 Illustra- 
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Sunnyland Stories. By the Author of "Aunt Mary's Bran Pie." 
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Tales from Ariosto Re-told for Children. By a Lady. With 3 
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WHITAKER, Florence. Christy's Inheritance. A London Story. 
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ZIMMERN, H. Stories in Precious Stones. With 6 Illustrations. 
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\