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)

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL

Slnttquattan

AND

PICTURESQUE TOUR

FRANCE AND GERMANY.

BY THE REV.

THO. FROGNALL DIBDIN, F.R.S. S.A.
VOLUME I.

DEI OMNIA PLENA.

LONDON:

PSIKTED FOa THE AUTHOR, BY W. BULMER AND W. XI< OL,

AND SOLD BY PAYNE AND F088, LONGMAN, HURST AND CO.
J. AND A. ARCH^ R. H. EVANS, R. TRIPHOOK,
AND JOHN MAJOft.

1821.

TO THE

PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS

OF THE

THESE VOLUMES

ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
BY THE AUTHOR.

N appearing before the Public
for the first time in the charac-
ter of a Traveller, I am naturally
desirous, like most candidates
for fame in a similar situation,
of throwing myself upon the liberality of those
whom I address.

Since the establishment of peace upon the Con-
tinent, the English have eagerly yielded to their
well-known ardour and curiosity, in visiting those
countries, firom which, by a long and apparently
interminable state of warfare, they had been pre-
viously excluded. In consequence, the wealth of
Great Britain has been plentifiiUy scattered upon
VOL. I. b

PREFACE.

the soils of Italy, France, and Gennany ; and we
have been fevoured, in return, with many valuable
publications, in which the character, antiquities,
or peculiarities, of the countries visited, have been
described with ability and truth.

But, while one Traveller has confined his at-
tention exclusively to Antiquities ; and another,
with the same exclusive attention, to the produce
and properties of soil; while a third has travelled
for the purposes of political economy — a fourth
as a statistical, and a fifth as apicturesqtie, tourist;
there have been few or none who have favoured
us with an account of the treasures of the
Libraries, or of the general literary character;
of those people with whom they have associated.
For the first time, therefore, the Public will here
find some attempt to gratify them in this important
branch of information.

Not that I can boast of having done much,
beyond exciting the curiosity of the more en-
terprising to make further researches, and to
impart more valuable information : yet I would
fain believe that, in a Tour which professes to
be " BIBLIOGRAPHICAL," as wcU as "antiquarian
and picturesque," there have been some suc-
cessful attempts to inform the lovers of literature.

PREFACE.

and the collectors of books, of the various and
almost inexhaustible sources of information which
the Libraries of foreign countries contain. And
perhaps it may be here worth remarking, that there
are few pursuits, more gratifying" to foreigners,
or more likely to lead to useful results, than those
comiected with the object firnt specified in the
title-page of this work. In the furtherance of
such object, I am wilhng to hope that, as, on the
one hand, I have always found the friendliest dis-
position to assist my researches, so, on the other,
there has been no backwardness in a grateful ac-
knowledgment of favours conferred. Where so
many have contributed their kind offices, it would
be invidious to mention some names in exclu-
sion of others ; and a register of the whole would
occupy too large a portion of these prefetory
remarks. But it is here the less necessary, as the
names and the services of the persons alluded to
will be found recorded in the body of the work.

It will therefore be for the reader to determine
in what manner I have done justice to the " rich
and rare" volumes, in manuscript and print, which
have been imreservedly submitted to my inspec-
tion. My object has been to select, and bear
away, many of the curious, splendid, and interest-

PREFACE.

ing specimens of art, of the lriK>Ctitfni0/*' con-
jtdiiiLed ia these volumes ; and ^rhich, till their pre-
jieiit appearance, were probably scarcely known
— even to their possessors. If, by means of the
beautiful embellishments selected from such vo-
lumes— and especially from those in the royal
libraries of Paris and Vienna* — may be said
tp have thrown a few flowers upon the otherwise
unalluring path of Bibliography^ I shall never
.consider my time mis-spent, nor the expenses,
attendant on my labours, misappUed. I am, how-
ever, abundantly persuaded that very much, of the
same character, yet remains to be accompUshed ;
which, should the present attempt be crowned
with success, may possibly stimulate other travel-
lers tp more prosperous undertakings. For myself,
the present is both ajirst and final effort.

* The reader will be pleased to examine the pages, in the
y^cxind and third volumes, under the above running titles; in
iv)v(ch he will disoover, together with several okiginal portraits,
(}\ere published for the first time) a great many beautiful spe-
cimens of art which have been hid for centuries from general
knowledge. The series of wood cuts, illustrative of the block-books
pr^ry^ at Mvxich, form striking contrasts to the more de-
licate specim^ of art" just alluded to. But such rude repl-c-
sentations are not without their use — even if they be considered
only as a supplement to Heineken^s Idte GerUrale (Tune Collection
Completie'^es Estampes.

FREFAGE.

^..ABiicaaQdittfttliispiiimdt, has been the desiM^
pwaMfling the makradb of Instnictionyot (>f Amu^
mexkU common to: the lower orders^ ^ tihe' p^dple
iHiere I have resided. These miauuals are m
verse and in prose ; and I haTte endeavotirdd both
to diversify and enHven the foUbvnng pages, by
tibe introduction of specimens or extracts fitmi
dmnr^'-^pecially throughout the account of the
tour in Normandy. Whether in Ihe unpi;'enije-
ditated BaUad^ or the systematic Cdteehvimf^\t
will be 'Observed that the genius and charactel^ of
the people are yet the same. There will be f5rei-
quently found, in either composition, the s^e
peculiarity of custom, the same naivete 6f expries-
fflon, and the same felicity of reply. Whether the
BUnual be moral or religious— and whether the
song treat of chivalry or of love —it generally jiitr-
takes of that spirit and raciness which defies trans-
fusion into a different language. In the notes, will
be found accounts of, and extracts from, rare and
Gwrious pieces, which may reward the toil of dili-
gent perusal.

So much in explanation of the bibliographical
ol]gects in this Tour. The second object, as the

•Sec Vol. i. pp. 133— 6: 138—146: 224; 316—321: 435—
444: Vol. iL pp. 3: 23: 48—52: 54: &c.

vi PR£FAC£.

title-page announces, is antiquarian; or con-
nected with the Antiquities of the several places
visited. These antiquities have been principally
architectural^ with the exception of such as are in-
dicated chiefly in the second volume,* Of those,
which are distinctly architectural, the views of
the Cathedral and the Rm du Bac, at Rouen ; of
the Church of St. Pierre and of the Abbey of St.
StepJieny at Caen ; of the Cathedrals of Coutances,
Strasbourg, UJm, and Vienna ; of the churches of
St. Mary and St. James, at Nuremberg — ^together
with the monasteries of Molk and Gottwic, and por-
tions of the crypt at Freysing, and the church of
the Monastery of St. James, at Ratisbon — ^as well
as the old Palace or Castle at Heidelberg —
may alone be considered sufficient to establish the
propriety of the second epithet in the title-page of
this work. But there are other decorations, smaller
in size, yet not less briUiant in execution, which
may be equally classed in the same department.*!'
It remains to notice the portion of the work

* This exception refers more particularly to the Plates from
page 491 to p. 500.

f Of these smaller antiquarian decorations, the Castle of Argues^
near Dieppe ; the remains (vfthc old castle xoalls^ the basso-relievo
of the Champ de Drap (tOr, and the figures upon the monuments
of Cardinal Amboise, and the Senesclud de Bre^e, at Rouen ; the

PREFACE.

which is denominated picturesque ; and of
which some of the embellishments necessarily par**
take of the antiquarian character. The View of
Rouen, on the road to Havre ; of Cofudebec ; of
Montmorenci Castle, at Tancarville ; of Falaise
Castle ; of the Boulevards at Paris ; of the Old
Gateway and New Gateway, at Nancy; of the
Market Place and H6tel de ViUe at Stuttgart;
of the Citadel of Salzburg; of Albert Durer's
Street, hi Nuremberg ; and the Halt of Pilgrims
to Gotttoic Monastery to say nothing of minor
views, of the same character, may iairiy en*
tide me to this popular epithet ; even at a time
when almost every bookseller's shop is teem-
ing with publications professing to be similar
views of countries abroad and at home. I will
not enter upon the invidious task of comparing
these, with others which are just now claiming
the attention of the public ; but it is equally
my duty and inclination to affirm, that the beauty

old lumses at Caen ; the fac-similes of the Bayeux Tapestry^ (of
which the larger plate is perfectly unrivalled,) at Bayeux ; the
Castle at Viee ; the Castle and supposed head of WiUiam the
Conqueror, at Falaise ; the dd buildings, and cathedral oma^
ments, at Steasboubg — together witli the illustrations, of a similar
kind, at Ratisbon and Nueembebg, are among the principal . .
which claim the peculiar attention of the reader.

Tiii

PREFACE.

ef the views in this work; is at least equalled by
Hkek ^fidelity.

rit is therefore but a necessary consequence of
the foregoing prraiises^ to introduce the nione of
the A&TisT, to whom, after all, these pages are
probably indebted for their chief source of attrac*
tion. Mr^ George Lewis, who accompanied me,
has here given such proofs of a varied and happy
talent, that I hardly know ( absit invidia" ) where
to look for a union of such attainments in any
other Uving Artist. When I say this, I am not
unmindful of the superior claims of merit, in a
knowledge of architectural perspective and an*
tiquities, which distinguish the efforts of Coney,
Mackenzie, Blore, Nash, Wild, and Cot-
man* — ^names, which are equally a glory to the

* Of the above artists, two only have ventured to exercise their
{^dls upon the shores of Normandy. Mr. Cotman is first in the
cmder of time. His work will be found occasionally referred to,
in the first volume of these pages. They are entitled Anglo-
NoEMAN Antiquities ; of which four parts (in folio) have al-
ready appeared. This publication consists entirely of architec-
tural and antiquarian views, with a slender portion of text, without
Ihei^ry pretensions ; and these views are both drawn and engraved
by the author. They are thoroughly artist-like ; without minute
finish or marking of the parts, or much breadth of shadow : and
they reflect very great credit upon the talents of their author. Some-
thing in the shape of a rival publication has recently appeared in
France, under the title of Mommens NormandSy by J olimens : ac-

PRSFACB.

9itaaiid tp the age. But the Nader will cast his
eye upon the views included in the ANTiQUARiADr
department of this wod:, and he will perceive
that Mr. Lewis is nearly as powerfid in the de^
lineati«n of Gothic remains^ as of picturesque ap-
pearanoes of nature^ and of national character in
groups of the common people. It was 4ue to
talents of this descripticni, and more especially was
it due to a Uberal public, that the copies from sudi
a pmeil should be worthy of the originals ; and
I am willing to hope that, as no expanse has been
spared, and no pains and exertions have been
withheld, the engravings in these volumes may$
upon the whole, be considered a s{dendid and
permanent monument of the progress of B&iTistt
Art. - . . ■

oMnpamed by letter-press, in folio. The plates are lithognq)hical —
but they are what artists call woolly and feeble.'*' Nevertheless, they
occasionally exhibit architectural relics which are dear to the cu-
rious eye of an Antiquary. The performances of Mr. Mackenzie
are of a class quite different to either of the foregoing. They are
minute, elaborate, and highly finished drawings, chiefly of the Ca-
THBDRAL Aktiqoitibs of France - with the figures supplied by
the pencil of a very able native artist, M. L akglois. It is hardly
possible to say too much in commendation of these exquisite, and
really matchless, productions; and when the public learn that they
will be made acquainted with them through the burins of the two
Lb Keuxs . . . they will have only to look forward to a gratification,
which, of its kind, cannot possibly be exceeded.

PREFACE.

Reverting to the Text^and being desirous of
detaining the reader as short a time as possible—
it may be necessary, in the first place, to state,
that these Letters must be understood as having
been written abroad; and that the Notes are
necessarily the result of subsequent intelligence,
since the author's retum to England. In the
second place, it may be permitted me to re-
mark, that, of the countries here described^ Nor-
mandy (although in France) may be considered
a distinct and peculiar country ; and in a great
measure new to British readers. Since the ap-
pearance of DucareVs very pompous but very im-
perfect work upon Anglo-Norman Antiquities,*
there has been, with some few recent exceptions,"!"
scarcely any thing deserving of the careful perusal

* It was published in 1768, in a thin folio volume, with a good
number of plates ; which latter are remarkable only for . . . their
general infidelity, and want of the most ordinary artist^like talent.

some Jew recent eaceptionsyl The principal of these " excep-
tions,^ is the work of my friend Mr. Dawson Turner, under the
tide of Some Account of a Tour in Normandy^ S^c. published by J.
and A. Arch, in 1820, in two octavo volumes, in a manner equally
Czeditable to the author, the artists, and the printer. I hardly know
flo el^ant a specimen of a Provincial Press. But tliis is only
a secondary merit ; the style is that of a lettered gentleman, and
the researches and opinions, which the work developes, are those of a
sober and sensible antiquary. The copper-plate embellishments

PREFACE.

of an English aBtiquary . . respecting a country^
from which our Kings, and a great portion of our
Nobility, have sprung — ^and in which many of
the churches and castles are supposed to have
been erected either by English money or by
English hands. Nor is the fertility of its soil,
and beauty of its landscape, (which latter har-
monises so perfectly with its objects of art) less
deserving of the admiration of the traveller:

are entirely by female hands . . the dearest to the author which
could have been employed . . and if they are sometimes slight, or
sometimes incomplete, they are generally delicate and faithful,
and rarely fail to arrest attention and receive applause. Mr.
Turner was earlier in the Norman field than myself ; but it has
been gratifying to me to observe, that, without any previous or
subsequent communication, we have formed many similar opinions
respecting the same objects of art and antiquity. We have, also,
without the least previous knowledge, devoted pretty nearly the
same number of pages to the same countries described. In our
respective performances, however, some places will be found to have
been visited by one traveller, which the other omitted to see : and
vice versa. Upon the whole, Mr. Turner's performance is a valu-
able addition to our stock of knowledge respecting the architec-
tural Antiquities of Nobmandy. A yet more recent publica-
tion upon Normandy is that of Mrs. Stothabd, under the title of
" Letters mritten durinff a Tour tlirough Normandy y Brittany^
and other Parts ofFrancey in the year 1818 ; published by Messrs.
Longman and Co. in 1820, 4 to. This work appears to treat more
fully of Brittany than of Normandy ; but I have as yet had no
opportunity of examining its contents. The platesy for the sake
of the name and reputation of Mr. Stotha&d, should have been
elsewhere.

YfkS^, hkj tiiQ)ito8(aime > of the «Kyitalhoti'^^
ii|^,fi!eq«en%fcbsc^ those' oh&nukeriili^di^ of a
^le^j^foA^ ynA which our antiquaiiah ^ei^ have
be^ £iiDUiar in ths illuminated pages of the
fifteenth century. r , .

.,The first volume of this work, together with a
sw^U : portion of the second, is exclusively devoted
tQ Nonnimdy. The treasures of the Public
LiBBJLRiES OF Paris fiimish the chief materials
of the second volume ; and a portion of the third
still belongs to France. In consequence, the
account of Germany is confined within narrower
limits than was originally intended : yet I am wil-
ling to hope that it will appear that the biblio-
graphical and architectural antiquities of

* ihe costume of the common people.] — The smaller plates (en-
gratred with so much talent by the several artists whose names are
attached to them) will fully justify the truth of the above remark.
These pistes abound more frequently in the first volume; as
in the groups at Dieppe, Rouen, Caen, and St, Lo, — Normandy
being a country fertile in the exhibition of ancient and curious
costume. But they are also seen at Paris, (vol. ii. p. 499.) Stras-
bourg, (vol. iii. p. 82.) and Munich (vol. iii. p. 255.) In respect to
the larger subjects — such as the Fille de Chambre at Dieppe, at
Caen, and at Nuremberg — it should be observed that these are re-
{Hi-esented with great attention to truth ; and perfectly divested of
that theatrical and artificial air given to similar subjects by French
Artists. They also serve to prove, that the high caps and stiff
garments, which have delighted the curious Antiquary in andent
Sluminations, are yet fiur from being ideal ornaments.

that, Jiug^^XwilMiW^s;^^ not been

iiegle9jl;^.. ,ijk^^ fanner department, the librti-
rie^.pf Mu^jRa^adViBHiTA afford inexhanstiUe
su}]jject^ of s«leqtiaii and' admiration ; and to have
seen the celebrated purple MS. of a portion of the
J^o^k ^ G^m^^rradomed with the art of the
ffiurtb centuryr-'has, alone, almost requited the
toil^^nd pains of a journey of no very ordinary ex-
tepit* In the department of architectural anti-
guitifs, the cities of. Ratisbon and Nuremberg
ar^ of themselves, sufficient to supply the most
curious and interesting details for a work of at
lefust half the extent of the present.

One word more, and I have done. Whatever
may have been the objects of other travellers, or
the feelings with which those objects have been
viewed by them — whether as connected with

* purple MS. of a portion of the book of Genesis.] This MS.
I apprehend to be the oldest extant. It has been before des-
cribe (on the exclusive authority of Lambecius) in the Bibliogra^
jhicaiJ)ecameronj voL L p. xliii.— iv. Once, for all, let me be here
allowed to say» that, whenever that work and the Bibliotheca Sper^
ceriana have been quoted, in the following pages, it has been only
whex^ they were conceived to afiPord the best information, within the
au^qr^ knowledge, upon the subject treated of. I would cheers
fulfy wave the rigjbit, which every man possesses, of doing what he
plcpaies witH his qmyi property, if I thought the imputation of
e^oHUm could be justly said to apply to sudi self-reference.

xiv

PREFACE.

art or with society — I have never ceased to bear
in mind, that an attachment to the laws and
liberties of one*s oum comitry, could never be in-
creased by a systematic disparagement of those
of others: that civilities and kindnesses conferred,
called for grateful returns ; and that the senti-
ments which possessed me, at an early period of
my continental visit,* have never ceased to operate
till the moment of my return. This confession
implies neither unqualified praise, nor unqualified
censure, of the manners and customs of the coun-
tries visited. It neither checks fi*eedom of thought,
nor truth of observation — ^but least of all does it
betray a fiixed and malign disposition to disown
the soil of one's birth, to forget the country which
has yielded protection to our persons and pro-
perties, and to traduce those laws which have
long rendered her the envy and admiration of the
world. If, on the one hand, I may say with a wri-
ter,-!* when speaking of the character of France —
Gens, humanitate in exteros, benevolentia in eru-
ditos, et facili in omnes comitate, pr^e aliis in-
siGNis " — I trust, on the other hand, that I may be

• See vol. i. 183, 4.

f Buckley ; in his dedication of the edition of De Thau's
Histaria Temporia to Dr. Mead.

PREFACE. XV

permitted to conclude, in the words of a much
higher authority,* — I suppose that, wherever
mention is made of countries, manners, or men,
the English People, among the first that shall
be praised, may deserve to be accounted a right
pious, right honest, and right hardy nation/'

Thomas Frognall Dibdin.

P. S. I had forgotten to state, that the references,
in some of the notes, to the -/Edes Althorpian^
must, till the publication of that work — towards
the close of the year — be considered as premature.
When these volumes were put to press, it was
imaged that they would have been preceded by
the work in question. The unavoidable cause of
the delay of that work, is sufficiently known to
the public.

♦ Milton:— irorfo, vol. i. p. 217 : fd. edit. I698

CONTENTS.

VOL. I.

CONTENTS.

VOLUME I.
Letter I.

Passage to Dieppe^ - - - - p. 1
Letter II.

Dieppe. Fisheries. Streets. Churches of St. Jacques
and St. Remi. Divine fForship. Military Mass, 9

Letter III.

ViUage and Cattle of Argues. Sabbath Amusements.
Manners and Customs. Boulevards, - - 26

Letter IV.

Rouen. Approach. Boulevards. Population. Street-
Scenery, - - - - 36

Letter V.

Ecclesiastical Architecture. The Cathedral. Monu^
ments. Religious Ceremonies. The Abbey of St.
Ouen. The Churches of St. Maclou, St. Fincent, St.
Vivian, St. Gervais, and St. Paul, - - 47

Letter VI.

Halles de Commerce. Place de la Pucelle d^ Orleans i
(Jeanne d!Arc). Basso-Relievo of the Champ de
Drap d^Or. Palace and Courts of Justice, 89

CONTENTS.

Letter VII.

Rouen. The Quays. Bridge of Boats. Rue du Bac.
Rue de Rohec. Eatuc de Robec et d^Auhette. Mont
Ste. Catherine. Hospices — Ginirale et d^ Humanity,

108

Letter VIII.

Early Typography at Rouen. Modem printed Chap
Books. Booksellers. Book Collectors^ - 123

Letter IX.

The Public Library. Account of some of the more
curious and rare MSS. and Printed Books, 161

Letter X.

Departure from Rouen. St. Georges de Bocherville.
Duclair. Marivaux. The Abbey of Jumiegts. Ar-
rival at CaudebeCj - 185

Letter XI.

Caudebec. Lillebonne. Bolbec. Tankarville. Mont-
morend Castle. Havre de Grace, - 208

Letter XII.

Havre de Grace. Honfieur. Journey to Caen, 242

Letter XIII.

Caen. Soil. Society. Education. A duel. Old
houses. The Abbey of St. Stephen. Church of St.
Pierre de Darnetal. Abbaye de la Sainte Trinity.
Other Public Edifices, - - 261

CONTENTS.

xxi

Letter XIV.

Caen. Literary Society. Abhi de la Rue. Messrs.
Pierre AimS Lair and Lamouroux. Medal of MaL-
herbe. Booksellers. The Public Library. Memoir
of the late M. Moysant, public Librarian. Manu^
scripts and printed Books. Protestant Place of
tVorship. Courts of Justice, - - 308

Letter XV.

Bayeux. Cathedral. Ordination of Priests and Dea-
cons.^ Crypt of the Cathedral. A Mysterious Inter-
view, - - - - 345

Letter XVI.

Bayeux. Fisit near St. Loup. M. Pluquet, Apo*
thecary and Book Fendor. Visit to the Bishop. The
Chapter Library. Description of the Bayeux Tapes-
try, with Facsimiles. Trade and Manufactures, 359

Letter XVIL

Bayeux to Coutances. St. Lo. Adventure at St. Gilles.
CouTANCES. The Cathedral, Environs. Aqueduct.
Market-day. Public Library. Establishment for
the Clergy, - - - - 392

Letter XVIIL

Journey to Granville. Granville, Ulle Dieu, St.
Sever. Town and Castle o/'Vire, - 415

Letter XIX.

Vire. Bibliography. Monsieur Adam. Monsieur de
la Renaudiere. Olivier Basselin. M, Sdguin. The
Public Library^ - - • - 428

xxii

CONTENTS.

VOLUME II.

Letter XX.

Departure from Fire. Condi. Pont Ouilly. Arrival
at Falaise. Hotel of the Grand Turc. The Castle
of Falaise. Bibliomaniacal Interview , - p.\

Letter XXI.

Mans. Mouton. Church of Ste. Trinitd. Comte de
la Fresnaye. Guibray Church. Supposed head of
William the Conqueror. M. Langevin, Historian of
Falaise. Printing Offices, - - 21

Letter XXII.

A Sabbath at Falaise. Departure. Journey to Paris.
Dreux. Houdan. Versailles. Entrance into Paris, 58

Letter XXIII.

Paris. The Boulevards. Public Buildings. Street-
Scenery. Churches, Sgc. Musee des Monumens
Francois. Fountains, - - - 76

Letter XXIV.

General Description of the Bibliothique du Roi. The
Librarians, - - . - 122

Letter XXV.
Account of Illuminated MSS. in the Royal Library, 155

Letter XXVI.
The same subject continued.

204

CONTENTS.

Letter XXVII.
Paris. Account of some of the early printed and rare

BooJcs, in the Royal Library y - - 246

Letter XXVIII.
Conclusion of the Account of the Royal Library. The
Library of the Arsenal^ - - 300

Letter XXIX.

Library of Ste. Genevieve. The AbbS Mercier St.
Leger. Library of the Mazarine College, or Instil
tute. Private Library of the King. Mons. Barbier,
Librarian, - - - 342

Letter XXX.

Some Account of the late Abbd Rive. Booksellers.
Printers. Book Binders, - - 381

Letter XXXI.
Men of Letters. Dom Brial. The Abbi B^tencourt.
Messrs. Gail^ Millin, and Langles. A Roxburghe
Banquet, - . - - 423

Letter XXXII.

The Collections of Mons. Denon, M. Quintin Craufurd,
and the Marquis de Sommariva, - 453

Letter XXXIII.

Notice of M. Willemins Monumens Francais in^dits.
Miscellaneous Antiquities. Present State of the Fine
Arts. General Observations on the National Cha-
racter, - - . . 491

Letter XXXIV.

Journey from Paris to Strasbourg. Nancy, 521

xxiv CONTENTS.

VOLUME m.

Letter XXXV.
Strasbourg. Establiskmentof the Protestant Religion.
The Cathedral. Other Ecclesiastical Buildings. The
Public Library J - - - P-^

Letter XXXVL
Society. Environs of Strasbourg. Domestic Archi-
tecture. Manners and Customs. Free Masonry.
Literature. Language, . - 74

Letter XXXVII.
Strasbourg to Stuttgart. Baden. The Elder Schweig-
hasuser. Stuttgart. The Faustus of Goethe, 101

Letter XXXVIII.

Stuttgart. The Public Library. The Royal Library ,

131

Letter XXXIX.
The Royal Palace. A Bibliographical Negotiation.
Dannecker the Sculptor. Environs of Stuttgart,

166

Letter XL.

Departure Jrom Stuttgart. Ulm. Augsbourg. The
Picture Gallery at Augsbourg^ - - 180

Letter XLI.

Augsbourg. Civil and Ecclesiastical Architecture.
Population. Trade. The Public Library, 218

CONTENTS.

XXV

Letter XLII.

Munich. Churches. Royal Palace. Picture Gallery.
The Public Library, - - 238

Letter XLIII.

JPurther Book- Acquisitions. Society. The Arts.
Lithography, - 299

Letter XLIV.

Freysing. Landshut. Altoting. Salzburg. The Mo-
nastery of St. Peter, - - - 322

Letter XLV.

Salzburg to Chremsminster. The Lake Gmunden.
The Monastery of Chremsminster. Lintz, 360

Letter XL VI.

The Monasteries of St. Florian, Molk^ and Gottwic,

386

Letter XLVIL

Vienna. The Imperial Library. Account of IHumi-
nated MSS. and early printed Books^ - 446

Letter XLVIIL*

Population. Streets and Fountains. Churches. Con-
vents. Palaces. Theatres. The Prater. The Em~
peror^s Private Library. Collection of Duke AU
bert. The Ramparts. Suburbs. Monastery of
Clostemeuburg. Capuchin Monastery in the Sub-
urbs. Departure from Vienna, - - 535

SUPPLEMENT.
Ratisbon, Nuremberg, Manheim - - i — Ixii
* This is numbered^ erroneously, XLIX.

PLATES WITHOUT TEXT.

VOL. I.

To hce page

Crucifix at Dieppe • ... 7

Fille de Chambre^ Dieppe - - - 32

South transept of Rouen Cathedral - • 50

Rue du Bac, Rouen - - - - 1 12

View of Rouen^ on the road to Havre - - 188

Caudebec, the Heights .... ^Qg

Montmorenci Castle^ Tancarville - . - 234

FUle de Chambre^ Caen . . . . 268

View of the Abbey of St. Stephen, Ditto - - ^82

Church of St. Pierre de Dametal, Ditto ... ^97

Portrait of Harold, from the Bayeux Tapestry - 378

Aqueduct and Cathedral of Coutances ... 4^9

Market-Place and Fountain, Vire . . 421

VOL. II.

Falaise Castle, Normandy - - - 10

Boulevards Italiens, Paris - - - - 77

John, King of France from a coeval painting - - 140

Figure from an ancient Ivory Diptych of the Vlth Century (No. 1.) 146
Figure of Christ, on ancient Brass Bookbinding - (No. 2.) 146
Soldiers sleeping near the Sepulchre of, from the same (No. 3.) 146
Charles the Bald, from a Latin Bible of the IXth Century 162
TheEmperorLotharius,from a MS. ofthe Gospels of the same period 164
Louisa of Savoy, Mother of Francis I. from a coeval MS. - 187
Ann of Britanny, from a similar MS. - - 190

Louis the Twelfth, from a similar MS. - - 215

John, Duke of Britanny, from a similar MS. - - 225

Figure of Christ, (folded) fiiom the Prayer Book of Charlemagne 373
Portraitof A. A. Barbier ... 376

LIST OF PLATES.

To face page

Portrait of Mons. Chardin^ Bookseller - - 400

Portrait of Dom Brial - 428

PiBani, the Medallist .... 458

The Knife and Case of Diane de Poictiers - - 493

Faience Plate, from B. Palessi ... 494

Statues in the grand Porch of the Cathedral at Chartres - 494

Wood Cut of St. Bemardinus - - - - 515

Portrait of the late A. B. Millin - - 524

Old Gate, Nancy - - (No. 1) 538

New Gate, Nancy - - - (No. 2) 538

VOL. III.

Front View of Strasbouig Cathedral - - 12

Suburbs of Strasbourg - . - . 53

Portrait of J. Schweighsuser, Sen. - - 1 lo

Crucifix at Stuttgart - - - - 1 18

Hotel de Ville and Market-Place at Stuttgart - - 136

Representation of the Trinity, from an illuminated MS. of the

Xllth Century, in the King*s private library at Stuttgart 159

Ulm Cathedral - ... 191

Folded Cut of four Female Figures, from an ancient wooden block

at Augsbourg .... 234-5

Gaspard Hitter, a Bookbinder of the sixteenth century - 274

Wood Cut of St. Christopher, at Munich - - 277

Fac-simile of a Dead Christ, copper- plate of, of the date of 1462 278
Fac-simile of a copper-plate Engraving of a Salvator Mundi, with

the Initials £. S. as the Engraver - - - ibid.

Wood Cut from an old Dance of Death - - 279

Wood Cut of the Resurrection - - 284

Wood Cut, — from the Life of St. Meinart - - 285

Another — from ditto - - - ibid.

Pillars in the Crypt at Freysing ... S26

Citadel, Salzburg ... 347

Monastery at Molk, in Austria ... 4og

Berthold Dietmayr, Restorer of the Monastery at Ditto - 415

Halt of Pilgrims in the road to Gottwic Monastery - - 422

Portrait of J. Adam de Bartsch ... 443

Interior of the Imperial Library at Vienna - - 454

LIST OF PLATES.

To (ace page

Jaosimile^ from the purple MS. of the Pentateuch, Sec. IV., in

the same library .... 459

St. Jerom, from an Ivory Diptych in Ditto . - 460

The Emperor Wenceslaus and his Queen, from a coeval MS. Bible 462

Fac- simile from the same ... 463

Saint Catherine - - . . 4^
Saint Agnes ... .

Sidnt Margaret ... n^d,

Leopold de Sempach .... 475

Song, from an old MS. of Sir Tristan - - 476

Fac-simile from the Breviaire d* Amour MS. of the Xlllth Century 479
Fac-simile of the Autograph of Tasso's Gerusalemme Conquistata 482
The Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, Vienna - - 548

Master and Apprentice, Architects of the same - - 554

SUPPLEMENT.
Specimens of the Interior of the Monastery of St. James, Ra.

tiflbon - - . - xiii
Portrait of Dr. Charles Arbuthnot, the late President of the same xiv

Portraits of De Murr and Panzer - - - xviii

Interior of the Church of St. Mary, Nuremberg - xxi

Interior of the Church of St. James, Ditto - - xxii

Albert Durer's Street and House - - xxviii
Fac-similes of the Paintings and Engravings of I. A. Klein,

of Nuremberg ... - xxicviii

Fille de Chambre, Nuremberg ... xliv

Heidelberg Palace, or Castle ... xlviii
Unknown Portrait, from the Collection of M. Artaria, at

Manheim • • - - liv

PLATES WITH TEXT.

VOL- I.

Beach at Brigfaton - - . . • 1

Fish Market at Dieppe - - • - 17

Eoce Homo, and attendant Gioup« at Dieppe - - - 80

Market Women at Dieppe . • . - 25

CasUe and VQlage of Arques . • - - 99

Boulevards^ Rouen - - - - 44

Monumental Figure of Charity^ in the Cathedral of Rouen - 57

Ditto, of the Seneschal Brez6, in ditto - - 61

Confession in the Abbey of St. Ouen - - - 73

Basso-Relievo at Rouen .... ^qI

Lemonadier and Halle de Commerce at ditto - - 109

Castellated Remains - - - - 154

Rocks, and view of the Seine, Tancarville ... $34

Fteket Boat, from Havre to Honfleur - - 258

Group of Women, Caen - - - . 253

Old Houses at ditto - - - . 277

House of Malherbe, ditto - - 279

- Confession, in the Abbey-Church, at Caen - - 283

Medal of Malherbe - .... 312

Tapestry-roll, Bayeux . - - - - 377

Charlatan, at St Lo - - - - 394

Remains of Vire Castle ..... 425

VOL. 11.

Ancient appearance of Falaise Castle - - - 11

Capital of an Ancient Pillar in the Interior of . - - 12

Christ bearing his Cross at Guibray - - - 28

Supposed Head of William the Conqueror, Falaise - 34

Portrait of M Langevin, the Historian of Falaise - - 44
Remains of the Castle at Houdan ... 70

Ancient Games of the Circus, Ivory Diptych - - 1 47
Adoration of the Magi, from the Breviary of John Duke of Bedford 178
Chess Flay, from an illuminated MS. - - - 210

Portraitof the Abb^MerderSt. Leger - - 361

LIST OF PLATES.

Portrait of Go^jet^ the PVench BibUograpber - - 379

ZFortrait of the late Abbd Rive^ ditto ... 384

T^ortrait of the Baron Denoa ... 459

!Sook-binding pattern • • • • 495

Bust of Francis I. - - - . 495

Diane de Poictiers . - - - 497

Blancbisseuses^ Rue St. Jacques ... 499

VOL. III.

Old Convent^ at Strasbouig - • • . 4

Pignre of Clovis, on the exterior of the Cathedral at ditto -16

Group at Prayers — Interior of ditto - - 39

Old Houses — in the Town of ditto - - - 82

Portrait of Melancthon> in the Picture Gallery at Augsbouig 216

Vision of Pcregrinus> (whole length figure irradiated) - 222

niyricusj Pope and Martyr - - - . 223

Biarket Women at Munich - - 255

Portrait of John Mielich, the painter - - 275

Capital of a Pillar in the Crypt at Freysing - - 326

View from the Window of the Public Library at Landshut 333

figure of Michael Neander, the Friend of Budsus - - 353

Pilgrimage to the Monastery at Gdttwic - - 433
Esau returning from Hunting, from a MS. of the Pentateuch of

the IVth Century, - - ■ - 458
The Emperor Wenceslaus, and his Bathing Girls, fiiom a MS. Bible 463
Figures in a Boat, with Music, from an illuminated MS. - 468
Mary Magdalene, from an illuminated MS. - - 469
Group of Females at Prayers, in the Cathedral of Vienna - 55 1
Portrait of Charles the Bold, from an Illuminated MS. in the Em-
peror of Austria's private Library - - - 591

SUPPLEMENT.

Portions of the Exterior of the Porch in the Monastery of St. James,

at Ratisbon - - - - x

Portion of the Castle Walls of Nuremberg, - - xvi

Portrait of a Female at Nuremberg . - xvii

A Hdrse, from an original design by M. Klein of Nuremberg xxxix

The Palace of Heidelbeig, ... xlviii

LETTER 1.

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.

Dieppe, April 20, 1818.

At length then, my dear Friend, the long projected
" Voyage bibliographique, antiquaire, et pittoresque/*
has begun to be carried into execution ; and the

Voyageur" is safely landed upon the shores of Nor-
mandy. When I think upon those pleasant strolls
which we used occasionally to enjoy together upon
the Downs, or on the Cliff, at Brighton — when I call
to mind how you used to excite my curiosity, and
inflkme my love of enterprise, by pointing to every
accidental white sail which glimmered in the offing
of that dreary expanse of sea ; — how you told me that
the outward-bound vessel was carrying some adven-
turous bibliographer to nm away with all the book-
treasures along the shores of the Mediterranean, and
that the inward-bound was freighted with such vo-
lumes as Maittaire had never dreamt of, nor Panzer
had seen— -and when you chided me for my scrupur

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.

lous delays^ because I was unwilling to break away
from Decameronic engagements, till the " Ten Days
Pleasant Discourse" were fully and feirly before the
public : — when, I say, " I do remember me of these
things," and look back upon that said ocean which I
have crossed, and upon the strange and grotesque
objects by which I am here surrounded, I cannot but
experience a combination of feelings and of thoughts
which it were difficult to have anticipated, and which
it is still more difficult to describe. Without further
preface or prologue, therefore, I shall rush at once
upon the subject-matter of discussion. In other ^ords,
I shall transmit to you (as you have earnestly requested
me to do) such periodical accounts of my " travels and
adventures** as may be most Ukely to interest yourself
and family. Grant me all your indulgent patience, and
all your unqualified candour.

^ Vous voil^ done, Messieurs, k Dieppe!" — ex-
elaimed the landlord (De La Rue) of the Grand
H6tel d'Angleterre — as we made our way through a
vociferating crowd of old and young, of both sexes,
with cards of addresses in their hands, entreating us

to take up our abode at their respective hotels

But I know your love of method, and of minuteness of
detail, and that you will be angry with me if I do not
" b^gin at the beginning." Be it so then : and yet, what
can you possibly expect in the description of that,
whieh thousands, and perhaps tens of thousands, have
done and said before me?

It was surely on one of the finest of all fine days that
I left my home, on the 14th of this present month, for
the land of castles, churches, and ancient chivalry. The

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.

wind from the south-east was blowing pretty smartly
at the time; but the sky was without a cloudy and I
could not but look upon the brilliancy of every ex-
ternal object as a fitvourable omen of the progress
^nd termination of my tour. The word of departure
being given — ^in one minute not a particle of my little
brick dwelling was to be seen: when^ commending its
precious inhabitants to the especial care of Heaven till
my return^ I tenk quietly backwards upon my seat^
and essayed to hold discourse with my companions.
Those companions, as you well know^ were Mr. GEORiQB
Lb WIS, and my Son. The former, an artist of singular
m^t and amiable manners, was selected to accom-
pany me throughout the whole of my journey for the
purpose of taking views, or of making copies, of what
might be deemed curious and precious in art.

Adverse winds, or the indolence or unwillingness of
the Captain, detained us at Brighton two whole days
— instead of sailing, as we were led to expect, on the
day following our arrival there. We were to form
the first ship*s company which had visited France
this season. The passengers becoming clamorous as
well as numerous, it was resolved that we should s^l
on the Friday: when, the wind still blowing stiffly,
with lowering clouds from the south-east — and the
Ciq)tain still thinking his passengers out of their wits
to desire to sail with such an almost directly adverse
wind — we were launched upon the ocean in the jolly
boat ; and approaching our gallant little packet, the
Nancy commanded by Captain Blaber, the anchor

* This niiart Ihtk vessel^ consideTed to be tbe fastest aaifing packet
{tern Dieppe, of about 70 toii9 burden, scarcely survived our voyage
VOL. 1. B

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.

was weighed^ and hoisting sail, we stood out to sea.
The day began to improve upon us. The gloomy ap*
pearances of the morning gradually brightened up. A
host of black clouds rolled heavily away. The sun at
length shone in his full meridian splendour, and the
ocean sparkled as we cut through its emerald waves . •

Vela dabant Iseti, et spumas salis sere ruebant.

As we were approaching the period of a full moon,
about four o'clock that chaste orb became faintly
visible in the opposite horizon ; and for some two or
three hours our spirits continued buoyant, chiefly firom
the extraordinary beauty of the day. What moments
were these for the indulgence of gay hope, and ardent
expectation ! It was to be my dehUt upon a foreign

eighteen months. Her end had nearly proved fatal to every soul oh
board. In a dark night, in the month of September, when bound
for Dieppe, she was struck by a heavy London brig. The crew were
with difficulty saved — and the vessel went down within about twenty-
five 'minutes after she had been struck.

In former times, it should seem that the voyage was usually under-
taken from Rye, In the Memoirs of Sir Hugh Chohnley, Knt, and
Bart, ]687> Part II. p. xxl. 4to. there is an interesting accoimt of a
passage from ' Rye to Deep,' (in which Sir Hugh was a passenger),
upon a very stormy night— in which above eighty sail ' were lost
between the entrance of the river at Rye, and the mouth of the Thames.*
Sir Hugh was driven back but in a week afterwards tried the same
passage with success. He concludes by describing the sailors at
Dieppe as a sort of very troublesome and exacting seamen, and
with the stink of the worst tobacco in the world, added such suf-
fering to those who being subject to sea-sickness, had endured
enough a-board a bad vessel, and small cabin, that this addition be-
came almost intcderable. Indeed it was scarce to be endured by such
who used not to comidain of evils at sea I'

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. 5

land ; and as I supposed we neared the French coasts
I strmned my eyes to obtain an early glimpse of somer
thifig in the shape of cliif or jettie. But the wind con-
tinued more determinedly in the south-east : the waves
rose in larger masses ; and our little vessel threw up a
heavy shower of foam as we entered upon the various
tacks. Then it was that the pallid cheeky and heavy
eye^ and dejected visage, became manifest : while^ to
add to our wretchedness, the Captain told us that, on
tacking from Beechey Head, it would be advisable for
every one to go below — for that the wind would be
blowing rather fresh." These " rathers," my good
friend, sound gently enough from the mouth ; but are,
in themselves, sometimes words of terrific import. In
another sense^ we were to prepare for a strong breeze,
or something like a stiff gale — although, wonderftil to
say! the atmosphere continued cloudless.

It is a grand sight — that vast, and apparently inter-
minable ocean I

maria undique et undique ccelum I

We now darted from Beechy Head upon a long tack
for the French coast ; and as the sun declined, we
found it most prudent to put our Captain's advice info
execution. Then commenced all the miseries of the
voyage ! The moon had begun to assert her ascendancy,
when, racked with torture and pain in our respective
berths, a tremendous surge washed completely over the
deck, sky-light, and binnacle : and down came in con^
sequence, drenched with the ^ briny wave,' the hardiest
of our crew, who had, till then, ventured to linger
upon deck. That crew was various ; and not without
a few of the natives of those shores which We were

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.

about to viidt. Tlieir gwety however contiaued undis-
turbed, in spite of frequent and violent indispoMtion.

Dr. Johnson, I believe, preferred a prison to a ship —
chiefly from the dread of fire. There are other causes
from which a prefiarence may be given. These I will
not enumerate. But to cut short my ship-narrative,
suffice it only further to say, that, towards midnight,
we heard our Ci^itain exclaim that he sal¥ the
lights of Dieppe!** — a joyful sound to us miserable
wretches below. There, however, we cimtinued to lie,
tossing at anchor : it being impossible to enter the
harbour till towards seven in the morning, owing to a
want of sufficient water. But it was good news to find
that we were safe, and beyond the reach of further
ovmvhelming surges. I well remember, at this mo-
ment, looking up towards the deck with a cheerless
eye, and perceiving the light of the moon still linger-
ing upon the mainnsail,— but I shall never forget how
much more powerfully my sensations were excited,
when, as the dawn of day made objects visible, I
looked up, and saw an old wrinkle-visaged sailor,
with a I'ed night cap on, begirt with large blue, puck-
ered, short petticoats, in possession of the helm — about
to steer the vessel into harbour ! * " Here is the true
weather-beaten French mariner,*' thought I to myself ;
-^^d Mr. Lewis would have given his last English
piece of money to have sketched the face and figure of
this picturesque old pilot. But extreme indisposition
confined him in his berth, among the most helpless of
the passengers.

* The Englkh are not pennitted to bring their own vesflda into
hariK>ur— for obvious resaons.

•

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE:

About seven we were all upon deck. The' sea was
yet swoln and agitatec^ and of a dingy colour ; while

heavily with clouds came on the day,

as we slowly approached the outward harbour of
DiBPPB. A grey morning, with drizzling nun, is not
the best^ accompaniment of a first visit to a fordgn
shore. Nevertheless, every thing was new, and strange,
and striking; and the huge crucifix to the right, (of
which a representation is conveyed in this despatch)
did not fail to make a very forcible impression. It is,
however, sufficiently tasteless ; having the negative merit
only of being the largest in France. As we approached
the inner harbour, the shipping and the buildings more
distinctly presented themselves. What a scene (said
I to my companion) for our Calcott ! The harbour
is large, and the vessels are entirely mercantile, with a
plentiful sprinkling of fishing smacks — ^but the manner
in which the latter harmonised with the tint and
structure of the houses — the bustle upon shore — the
casks, deal planks, ropes, and goods of every description
upon the quays, — ail formed a most animated and
inter^ting scene. The population seemed countless,
and chiefly females ; whose high caps and enormous
ear-rings, with the rest of thdr paraphernalia, half per-
suaded us that, instead of being some few twenty-five
leagues only from our own white cliffs, we bad in &ijct
dropt upon the Antipodes ! It was a full hour before
we got upon terra firma — sahited, and even assailed
on all sides, with entreaties to come to certain hdtels.
" Mais, Monsieur, Monsieur, par ici, par ici, — c'est ici
oik vous serez charm6 de votre reception — vous serez

PASSAGE TO DIEPPE.

h votre aise chez'' — ^^C*e8t FHotel d'Angleterre qnentous
eherehons (replied I.)** — A la bonne heure, (exclaimed
a lively young man) — suivez, Monsieur, je vous prie T
when^ upon entering the coffee-room of thie inn, the
worthy De La Rue, the landlord, exclaimed (as I think
I bdfore told you) " Vous voilk done. Messieurs, k
ZKeppe-Hsoyez le bien venft !'* We declared ourselves
well satisfied : and willing to forget the miseries of the
voyage, sat down to eggs and coffee, resolving to be ia
good humour with every thing around us.

LETTER II.

DIBPPB. VISHBRIBS. 8TRBBTS. CHURCHES OF ST.
JACQUES AND ST. RBMY. DIVINE WORSHIP, MILI-
TARY MASS.

The town of Dieppe* contains a population of about
twenty-thousand souls. Of these^ by much the greater

* town of Dieppe,'] Dieppe owes its origin to the accidental asso-
ciation of a few adyenturous fishermen. The rapid strides by which
it rose from insignificancy to importance^ are not mariced in the annals
of the historian : nor does its present population arise from those
causes which hare rendered Brighton and Hastings so prosperous. No
Frenchman thinks of settling at Dieppe without having commerdal
olijects in view whereas^ in the i^es just mentioned* some hundreds
of &milies yearly resort for the benefit of sea-air and sea-bathing.
Hence, the crescent^ the colonnade^ and other stately architectural
appendages^ are erected^ to invite residence and cause the diffusion of
money. At Dieppe a very different order of things prevails. I shall
translate an interesting passage from a French work published in
1795 J which gives a pretty good outline of the origin and ancient fish*
eries of Dieppe : In its origin^ this town was only a miserable collec-
tion of huts of fishermen^ who^ for the convenience of carrying on
their trade^ united themselves at the embouchure of the Arques^ at the
foot of the western cliffl At that time Dieppe was only a smaU bay,
to which vessels resorted by favour of the tide': the whole of the
ground^ in which the present port is excavated^ exhibiting nothing but
a swamp inundated twice a day. By degrees Dieppe reared its head^
and the fishery, which may be called the agriculture of the sea, was
the first foundation of its future grandeur.

As this town owed its origin to some obscure fishermen, so. has it
owed its prosperity to the same useful class of men. The deeds and

10 DIEPPE.

stationary pait are females; arising from one-third at
least of the males being constantly engaged in the fish-
eries. As these fisheries form the main support of the

charters of the time make mention of a gnat nmnber of different sorts
of fish which every day arrived at the port,— of which the prindpai
species was the ha ring, and of which species the antiquity reaches to
the year 1030 ; there was also the mackarel, mentioned in a number
of title-deeds of the xiith century : to which must be added the cod,
the whiting, the congre-eel, more abundant formerly than at present 3 le
colUtan, a fish which has now entirely forsaken our rivers the thoru'
hack, tumhe, sole, haddock, anon, salmon, turhot, roach, porpoite,
sturgeon, &c. But of all these species, the herring was infinitely the most
useful and important in every respect ; and not only were they sought
in the Channel, but our vessels went in search of them to the northern
seas, to Yarmouth even on the English coasts, and upon those of
ScJionen in Sweden : they even brought away the herring from Escone,
of which there is often mention made in the ordinances of the time.
Afterwards they exported this fish, salted, to all the ports of the Medi-
terranean ; and, for this purpose, made use of their own vessels, which
were called druggers ; because, in return, they brought home from the
sea-ports in the Levant, spices and drugs, such as wax, oil, honey,
pepper, saffron, ginger, cinnamon, rosin, alum, woad, &c. and all the
provisions of which mention is made in the tarifs of entry, by sea, at
Dieppe, in the xiiith and xivth centuries." p. 105.

Consult the " Premier Essai sur le Dipartement de la Seine Infi-
rieure, contenant les districts de Goumay, Neufchatel, Dieppe et Cany,
Outrage topographique, historique et pittoresque, &c. par S. B. J. Noel,
Redacteur du Journal de Rouen,"' 1795, an iii. 8vo. 3 a scarce work
at the present moment. But the author would have shewn more
judgment if he had spared a few imbecile flings at his opposite
neighboiu^. My predecessor. Doctor Dugarkl, in his Anglo-Norman
Antiquities, 1767, folio, p. 6, devotes about sixteen widely-spaced
lines only, to his account of Dieppe ; subjoining, however, in a note, a
copy of the original letters-patent of King Richard I. who granted the
town to Walter^ Archbishop of Rouen, in exchange for Andely, which
he annexed to the duchy of Normandy.

DIEPPE-

inhabitants, it i6 right that you should know something
about them — and the recent appearance of Goube'%
work upon Normandy, will better enable me to send
you a tolerably correct account. " That which chiefly
^ves occupation to the Dieppe vessels, is the diffe-
rent fisheries of the place — and especially the salted
herring, mackarel, and cod. The herring fishery takes
place twice a year: in August and October. The
August fishery is carried on along the shores of England
and the North. From sixty to eighty vessels, of from
twenty-five to thirty ton burthen each, with about
fifteen men in each vessel, are usually employed. They
ai*e freighted with salt and empty barrels, for seasoning
and stowing the fish, and they return about the end of
October. The herrings caught in August are consider-
ably preferable to those caught in October. The Octo-
ber fishery is carried on with smaller vessels, along* the
coast of France from Boulogne to Havre. From one
hundred and twenty to one hundred and thirty vessels
are engaged in this later navigation ; and the fish,
which is smaller, and of inferior flavour to that caught
upon the English coasts, is sent-almost entirely to the
Provinces and to Paris, where it is eaten fresh." So
much for the herring.

The mackarel fishery usually commences towards
the month of July, along the coast of Picardy; be-
cause, being a sort of fish of passage, it gets into the
channel in the month of April. It then moves towards
the straits of Dover, as summer approaches. For this
fishery they make use of large-decked vessels, from
twenty to fifty tons burden, manned with from twelve
to twenty men. There are however Dieppe boats em-
ployed in this fishery which go as far as the Scilly

DIEPPE.

Iskmdfl and Uflhant^ towards the middle of April. Tbey
cany with them the salt requisite to season the fish^
which are afterwards sent to Paris, and to the provinces
in the interior of France. The cod fishery is divided
into the fresh and dried fish. The former continues
from the beginning of February to the end of April —
and the vessels employed, which go as far as Newfound-
land, are two deckers, and from one hundred to one
hundred and fifty tons burden — although, in fsjcty they
nu*ely carry more than fifteen tons for fear of spoiling
the fish. The dried-cod fishery is carried on in vessds
of all sizes ; but it is essential that they be of a certain
depth, because the fish is more cumbersome than
weighty. The vessels however usually set sail about
the month of March or April, in order that they may
have the advantage of the summer season, to dry the
fish. There are vessels which go to Newfoundland
laden with brandy, flour, beans, treacle, linen and
woollen cloths, which they dispose of to the inhabi-
tants of the French colonies in exchange for dried cod.
This latter species of commerce may be carried on in
the summer months — as late as July.'* The author
thus concludes with some animation: Ces pSches
occupent un grand nombre de marins : elles vivifient le
commerce de Dieppe : elles occupent tons les ateliers
— ^les chantiers pour la construction des b^timens, la
confection des filets pour la p^che, celle des hamegons,
des cordages, des voiles, des barils ; ensuite vient la pre-
paration des poissons, et leur expeditions joumalieres,
ainsi que celle du poisson frais, qui se renouvelle, pour
ainsi dire, k chaque mar^e.** * Vol. iii. p. 170.

* Hisioirt du Duche de Normandie, par J. J. C. Goubc, 181 5> 8vo.

DIEPPE.

In the oommon markets, for retail trade, tliey are
not very nice in the quality or condition of their fish ;
and enormous congre eels, which would be instantly
rqected by the middling, or even lower classes in
England, are, at Dieppe, bought with avidity and
relished with glee. A few francs will procure a dish
of fish large enough for a dozen people. The quays
are constantly crowded, but there seems to be more
of bustle than of business. The town is certainly
pictunesque, notwithstanding the houses are very little
more than a century o\d;^ and the streets are formal

3 toIb. In the sequel^ this work will be more particularly noticed.
The author of the Itin&aire de Rouen (1816, 12mo.) has given a
more dramatic effect to his colouring of the same picture : Alors
tout est en mouvement, et Vobservateur peut juger k son aise de leur
industries remarquer les diffiE^rents effets de la joie, de la crainte, quel-
(JOefois m^me de la tristesse, a la moindre nouvelle alarmante. L'alter-
native du plaisir, de Tinqui^tude se peint sur la physionomie des
fanmes et des filles des marins, si le Tent furieux et des nuages, pr6-
cmacun de la temp^te, viennent soul^rer lea flots ^cumants.*' p. 303.

t Utile more than a century oldJ] The town of Dieppe has suffered
often and severely. During the time of the Normans it was almost
demolished. It was sharply attacked by Lord Talbot (called the
EngHsh Caesar) in 1442, whose army seems to have been encamped
liear Ban^uemont, about a league from Dieppe, and to have occupied
the strong position vulgarly called Qcesar's Camp ; (see Duoarel, p 5,
and Noel, p. 87-8) but it rose again with strength and beauty, tiU
the middle of the dxteenth century, when, in consequence of a
most sanguinary sea-fight between the Flemish and Dieppois, (in
which the ftinoiis Coligny commanded the latter) it experienced a
very heavy eiOamity in the loss of many vessels, and the destruction
of a portion of the town by fire. But a heavier calamity awaited
it in the memorable bombardment of the (own by the English in 1694.
Every thing seemed demolished but the old churches. Within the

14 DffiPPE.

and comparatirely wide: but this picturesqueness
arises from the materials of the buildings being of stone
and brick, now gray-tinted — from the sharp pointed
poofe — ^from the bold projections of the architecture,
and the large dimensions of the windows. Indeed it
should seem that the houses were built expressly for
Noblemen and Gentlemen, although they are inhabited
by tradesmen, mechanics, and artizans in apparently
very indifferent circumstances. There is a great waste
of brick, stone, and mortar, and some of the largest
buildings are situated in the gloomiest courts. We
saw scarcely six private houses which could be called

short space of thirty hours (says Noe1)> the English threw in 3000
shells and 4000 balls, and made use of a machine charged with all
manner of combustible materials and bars of iron, in the view of set-
ting fire to the two wooden jetties, in which attempt, however, they
were foiled." p. 1 16. An ordonnance of Louis XIV., carried into effect
by the patriotic spirit of the people, caused the town of Dieppe to
rise out of its ashes, as we now behold it. The streets are well
planned and well paved j and the Dieppois would feign compare
their High-street to the rue de Richlieu, at Paris. I suspect that it
is sheer poverty which causes so great a number of their upper win-
dows to remain unglazed. A Tour in France, published in 1701, thus
notices the town of Dieppe shortly after the memorable bombardment
just mentioned. These preparatory steps being over^ we had our
dinner, and afterwards walked into the town which, being bom-
barded last war (1694) by the English, is hardly yet rebuilt. What
houses are up are lofty, so that the town is almost new, and will be a
fine one, when finished, though not large ; we saw the ruins of
many houses ; for the bombardment was so violent and successful
that few were left standing entire. The great Church and Castle suf-
fered in some parts* and other churches were quite demolished. The
streets are large and straight, and the buildings uniform, generally of
the same height, and aU of a sort of white brick,** Bic—Gent. Maga-
zine^ March 1B19, p. 807> vol. lxxxix.

DIEPPE.

elegant, and not a gentleman's carriage has been yet
noticed by us in the streets. But if the Dieppois
are not rich, they seem happy, and are in a constant
state of occupation. A woman sells her wares in an
open shop, or in an insulated booth, and sits without her
bonnet — as indeed do all the tradesmen's wives — and
works or sings as humour sways her. A man sells gin-
gerbread in an open shed, and in the intervals of his cus-
tomers coming, reads some popular history or romance.
Most of the upper windows are wholly destitute of glass ;
but are smothered with clothes, rags, and wall flowers.
The fragrance emitted from these flowers affords no
unpleasing antidote to odors of a very different d^
scription: — and here we begin to have a too convincing
proof of the general character of the country in re-
gard to the want of cleanliness. A little good sense, or
Mtther a better-regulated police, would speedily get rid
of such nuisances. The great crying evil throughout
Prance, in respect to out-door inconveniences, arises
from suffering the filth, of whatever description, to
accumulate in the streets : and when the office of
porification is put in force, it is so slovenly executed,
that a portion is always left behind in order to show
where future deposits are to be made. TTie want of
public sewers is another great and grievous cause of
smells of every description : but the French are used
to these things — and will quietly sit with a collection
of dirt beneath their noses, which would cause a notable
spinster or housewife, on our side the water, to start
back with disgust. At Dieppe there are fountains in
abundance ; and if some of the limpid streams, which
issue therefrom, were directed to cleansing the streets.

DIEPPE.

(which are excellently well paved) the effect wbuld be
both more salubrious and pleasant — especially to the
sensitive organs of Englishmen !

We had hardly concluded our break&sts, on land-
ing, when we saw a funeral go by : the priests and
boys, with their black caps, white surplices, and
umbrellas over their heads, (as it was raining) chauntr
ing both loud and lustily — ^unconcerned at the busy
and bawling scenes through which the procession must
necessarily pass. What a novel object was this to gaze
at ! Anon, a loud and clattering sound was heard ; and
down came, in a heavy trot, with sundry ear-piercing
crackings of the whip, the thundering Diligence: large^
lofty, and of most unwieldy dimensions : of a structure,
too^ strong enough to carry a half score of elq^ianta.
The postilion is an animal perfectly mi gemeris: gt^
alert, and living upon the best possible tenns tftt
himself. He wears the royal livery, red and UaiB ;
with a plate of the fleur de lis upon his left arm. IBs
hair is tied behind in a thick, short, tightly fiisteiifld
queue : with powder and pomatum sufficient to wea-
ther a whole winter*s storm and tempest. As he menr
rises in his stirrups, I leave you to judge of the mmr
ciless effects of this ever-beating club upon the textnra
of his jacket. He is however fond of Us horaet : if
well known by them ; and then is all flourish and
noise, and no sort of cruelty, in his treatment of then^
His spurs are of tremendous dimensions ; such as we
see sticking to the heels of knights in illuminated Mss.
of the xvth century. He has nothing to do with the
ponderous machine behind him. He ats upon the near
of the two wheel horses, with three horses before hun.

DneppE.

His turnings are aU adroitly and correctly ihade; and^
upon the whole, he is a clever fellow in the exercise
of his office.

We had not spent half of the Saturday at Dieppe,
before Mr. Lewis brought us a sketch, of which the en-
closed is a feithful and spiritedly-finished drawing ; and
so correctly are the characters identified, that the JiUe
de chambre, at our hotel, instantly recognized the old
woman, or the stout figure, to the right — as the per-
son who usually brought fish for the consumption of
their table. In this group^ in fact, you have an epitome

OF THE WHOLE FISH-MARKET.

dibppb:

I shall probably send you/ in some fiitnre despatch^
a more sober and near view of the far-famed cauchaise.
You ought to know, that, foiinerly, this town was
greatly celebrated for its manufactures in Ivory but
the present aspect of the ivory-market affords but a
faint notion of what it might have been in the sixteenth
fUid seventeeth centuries. I purchased a few subordinate
articles (chiefly of a reli^ous character) and which I
shall preserve rather as a matter of evidence than of
admiration. There is yet however a considerable ma^
ntifacture of thread lace; and between three and fbur
thousand females are supposed to earn a comfortable
livelihood by it.

* manufactures in Ivory. "] It was possibly under the bold excur-
sion of such distinguished navigators and captains as Parmentuu>
DysMESNiL, and the great merchant Anoo, (in the sixteenth and seven-
teenth centuries) that the ivory trade had attained its highest pitch of
prosperity. The establishments of the Dicppois in Guinea necessarily
facilitated the means of improving this branch of commerce. Walpole^
in his Anecdotes of Painting, vol. iii. p. 262, makes honorable mention
of Lb marchand^ a native of Dieppe, who worked very successfully for
several years in London. Mr. West was in possession of that Artist's
own head, cut by himself ; and Lord Oxford had his head of Lord
Somers. Evelyn, who visited Dieppe in the year 1644, observes that
it then *^ abounded with workmen who made and sold curiosities of
wory and tortoise-shell, and whatever the East Indies afforded of
cabinets and purcelan ; and that natural and exotic rarities were there
to be had with abundant choice.** Life and Writings of Evelyn, vol. i.
p. 51, edit. 1818, 4to. In short, it appears to have been just at the
time of Evelyn's visit, that Dieppe was in the height of its opulence
and population for in one of ZeiUer's views of it, (in his TopograpJua
OaUia, 1650) there are special designations of the establishments of
Mmimes, Capucins, Carmelites, Jesuits, Ursulins and the HaUes, &c.
The river Jrques seems also to have been very wide, particularly at its
embouchure in the harbour.

DIEPPE.

' My love of eccleidastical architecture quickly in-
duced me to visit the churches ; and we all three set
out to pay our respects to the principal churchy called
St. Jacqubs. As we entered it^ a general gloom pre-
vailed^ and a sort of premature evening came on;
while the clatter of the sabots was sufficiently audible \
along the aisles. In making the circuit of the side
chapels^ an unusual light proceeded from a sort of
grated door way^ We approached, and witnessed a
sig^ which could not fail to rivet our attention. In
what seemed to be an excavated interior, were several
figures, cut in stone, and coloured after life— of which
they were the size — representing the three Maries, St.
John, and Joseph of Arimaihea . . in the act of en-
tombing Christ : the figure of our Saviour being half
sunk into the tomb. The whole was partially iUu-
minated by some two dozen of shabby and nearly con-
sumed tallow candles ; affording a striking contrast to
the increasing darkness of the nave and the side-aisles.
We retired, more and more struck with the novelty of
every object around us, to our supper and beds, which
were both excellent ; and a good night's rest made us
fi>rget the miseries of the preceding evening.

The next morning, being Sunday, we betook our-
selves in good time to the service at St. Jacques'* : not
however before Mr. Lewis, who had risen between six
and seven o'clock, had brought home a sketch of what
had taken place in the front of the church in the
market place. This sketch represents a waxen figure

* the service at St. Jacques*,'] — ^The stone with which this
church is built, is said to have been brought from England;
but I shonld rather apprehend it to have been obtained from Caen,
which, as the reader wiU see in the sequel^ has been long and

of CMM (what is ciilled Ecce 'Homb^ Closed
within a brix, of wMcfa the doors Oi^ opened. *Th6
figure and' box are the property of the' man whrf'plttys
the' Violin, and who is selling little mass books, siip^
pMedto be rendered more sacred by hating been [ias^
ac^s the feet and hands of the waxen Christ. iSuct
aliM^hgtel otecn^ation, and snch a motley gronp, mtiAt
strikef yon trith astonishment — as a Snnday morning's
recreation ! You receive it here, after its having been
submitted to the finishing process of light and shade.

DIEPPE.

By half past ten the congregation had assembled in
good earnest ; and every side-chapel(I think about twelve
in number) began to be filled by the penitent flocks :
each bringing, or hiring, a rush-bottomed chair; with
which the churches are pretty liberally furnished, and of
which the Tarif (or terms of hire) is pasted upon the
waUs. There were, I am quite sure, full eighteen women
to one man ; which may in part be accounted for (as
I before observed) by the almost uniform absence of a
third of the male population occupied in the fisheries.
I think there could not have been fiswer than two thou-
sand souls present. I contrived to get upon the steps
which separate the choir from the nave, and witnessed
fiom thence a sort of ocean of white caps — as the
8at w knelt. But what struck me as the most
flolemn thing I had ever beheld^ was, a huge
jtad fiipirBv dressed like a drum-major^ with a large
i Iwt and three white plumes^ (the only covered

■ JbdnguMied for the superior qualities of its stone. Here
^ #1 wdl as at Eonen^ they wiU have it that the JSi^iiifc built
^.lltaebesl Nod aqfs that the entombing of Chikl. as abore
ri^d» is done after the original at Jerusalem^ and that It waa eaa*
Ilia 1619, at the eipense of a pious traveller, who letmaed ftooa
ijfaie. The fine scnl^ptnred culs-de-lampes, in silvsrj ivUch «ad-
;|pkli%alioiit the diapd of the \rirgin, and whi(^ cxdled Oie adBiii»- .

«f Caidhial Baibcrlii|^ together with snnfty «lksr ddicite and
liilipf . embfilltahnasatii, were destrojed daring ..the boDfaaidflBeat
iMnBoned at p. 13 ante. And I may add that onpments^ of % more
4olid diaracter, suchas interior and exterior ftet-worics, porches, ballus-
tiades, &c. were dreadfully defiM:ed during the Revolution — ^which, has
left frightftd nuirks of its ravages in Normandy !

DIEPPE.

male figure in the congr^tion), a broad white sash
upon a complete suit of red, including red stockings ;
— ^representing what in our country is called a Beadle!
He was a sturdy, baboon-visaged gentleman — bearing
an halberd in his right hand, which he wielded with a
sort of pompous swing, infusing terror into the young,
and commanding the admiration of the old. In the
procession of the priests, where the voices are raised
to a higher pitch, and where the service seems to de-
mand a more pious expression, the zeal of the con-
gr^tion was unequivocally manifested by very general
and sonorous responses : and I must say that, in same
particulars connected with the fiilfilment of church du-
ties, it were well if we took a lesson from our conti--
nental neighbours. But so little sense of out-door
public decency prevails, that, during service, we were
constantly annoyed by the sounds of the drum and fife,
calling the national guard together for military mass
at St. Remy. I must not, however, omit to inform
you, that half the service was scarcely performed when
the preacher mounted a pulpit, with a black cap oii>
and read a short sermon from a printed-book — -a
method, by the bye which some apologists for intellee-
tual and manual labour might think worthy of imita-
tion in our own countiyl I shall never forget the
figure and attitude of the Ferger who attended the
preacher : he followed him to the pulpit, festened the
door, became stationary, and reposed his left arm over
the railings of the stairs. Anon, he took out his snuff
box with his right hand, and regaled himself with a
pinch of snuff in the most joyous and comfortably-ab-

DIEPPE.

stracted manner imaginable. There he remained till
the conclusion of a thirteen minutes discourse ; not one
word of which seemed to afford him half the satis&c-
tion as did the contents of his snuff-box ! You know
that you have absolutely commanded me to be mi«
nute in all things/' and you see with what trifles I have
in consequence ventured to entertain you.

Military Mass was performed about an hour after
at the church of Sr. Remy. Both Mr. Lewis and my
Son saw this extraordinary spectacle, but I had had
" sufficient for one dose/' Yet I strolled quietly to that
same church, to witness the devotion of the congrega-
tion previous to the entry of the soldiers ; and I will
not dissemble that I was much struck and gratified by
what I saw. There was more simplicity: a smaller
congregation : softer music : a lower-toned organ : less
rash of people; and in very many of the flock the
mofit intense and unfeigned expression of piety. At the
elevation of the host, from the end of the choir, (near
which was suspended a white flag, with the portrait of
the present King thereupon) a bell was loing from the
tower of the church : the sound, below, was soft and
silver-toned — accompanied by rather a quick movement
of the organ^ upon the diapason stop ; which, united
with the silence and prostration of the congregation,
might have commanded the reverence of the most pro-
&iie. I became motionless, save a slight and fixed
mdination of the head — ^in which attitude I could not
refrain from offering up a prayer for the preservation of
those left behind ! — and which prayer, although not bor-
rowed from the Romish ritual, might possibly be not
the less availing on that account. There is nothings my

24 DIEPPE.

dear friend^ more refreshings in a foreign land, than
this general appearance of earnestness of devotion, upon
a sabbath day ; especially within the House of God, Out
of doors a veiy different order of things prevails : But I
quickly heard the clangor of the trumpet, the beat of
drums, the measured tramp of human feet, and in
marched two or three troops of the national guard to
perform military mass. I retired precipitately to the
Inn. My companions, who staid behind, told me that
this military mass consisted of certain manoeuvres of
the soldiers, with their caps on^ within the choir — ac-
companied by loud and stunring music. It seemed
a frightful contrast to all tliat had preceded it.

I must not conclude this epistle, while upon the sub-
ject of churches, without informing you that^ of the
two, I consider that of St. Remy, or rather of mme
portions of it, to be the more ancient; but St.f
upon the whole, is not only the largest, but the
elaborately sculptured, edifice. I should think die

latter end of the XlVth century, a date quite anti-
quated enough for the completion oy|^iiildtng* 111?
Revolution has not failed to leave : ^^^^
devastations upon portions of thelHpofS of
churches ; but modem manners ham not yqt prodi
a re\*olution of a different and moi'e iCiWvMf chat^
ter — that of paying attention to the i
the outer walls — ^in which all
are strictly forbidden to be
bid is one thing; and to pay attent^
tion is another. The filth that sometimes
these churches is equally gross, noxious, and revolting.
ITiey certainly do " order these things better in" —

^^ehes^nck upon
et iintiiondiqtt"

DIEPP£. 25

England. Forgive this new reading : but I cannot help^
in spite of all the marvels by which I am surrounded^
putting in a good word now and then for my own
country. So God bless you.

P. S. Mr> Lewis has just brought me another spirited
drawings of what may be considered equally characte-
ristic of the Market Women^ look at it attentively ;
for I can assure you that the fidelity is equal to the
spirit, of the performance.

LETTER IIL

VILLAGE AND CASTLE OP ARQUB8. SABBATH AMUSE-
MENTS. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. BOULBTARDS.

•As I had recdyed especial injunctions from ont
flmtoid N * ♦ ♦ not to ieaye Dieppe without paying n
visit to the famous Chateau dArques* in its neighbouf-
hood^ I resolved to seize the opportunity of a tolerably
fedr^ or rather gray-looking day, to go and pay due
homage to these venerable remains of antiquity ; and
accordingly, on the same Sunday, between one and
two, Mr. L. and myself set out upon this congenial en-
terprise. You go up the principal street, continue to the
left, and pass under the gate or outlet to Rouen^ where

* the fammu Chateau d'Arques.] — The French Antiquaries have
pufibed the antiquity of this castle to the 8th century^ suppoeing it to
have been built by William d*Arques, Count of TalIoi|> son of the se-
cond marriage of Richard Duke of Normandy. I make no doubt^
• that, Ti^henever built^ the sea almost washed the base of it ) for it
is known to have occupied the whole of what is called the Faliey of
Arqaes, running as far as Bouteilles, Its position, in reference to the
art of war, must have been almost impregnable. Other hypotheses
assign its origin, perhaps with more truth, to the ninth or tentb
century ) as a bulwark against the invasion of the Nonnans. When-
ever built, its history has been fertile in sieges. In ] 144, it was
commanded by a Flemish Monk, who preferred the spear to the crosierj
but who perished by an arrow in the contest. Of its history, up to the
nxteenth century, I am not able to give any details i but in the wan
of Henry IV, with the League, 1589^ it was taken by surprise by sol-

DIEPPE.

the noble road to Paris, on a fine ascent, faces yon
upon quitting the town. You leave this to the right,
turn down a bye-road, which runs beneath a high bank,
or small hanging wood, and continue straight forward
about two English miles ; when you catch the first
glimpse of the castle to the right. The road thither is
completely rural : apple-trees, just beginning to burst
their blossoms, hamlets, small farm-houses, (many of
which wereskilfully covei*ed with blue slate) a profusion
of rich herbage of various kinds, delighted and regaled
us as we pursued our tranquil walk. The country is of
a gently-undulating character : but the flats or mea-
dows, between the parallel ranges of hills, are subject;
to constant inundation from the sea ; and in an agri-
cnltural point of view are consequently of little use,
except for summer grazing of the cattle.

It was drawing on to vespers as we approached the
FiUage of Argues: a young countryman neatly dressed,
but bare-headed, liaving undertaken to conduct us thi-
ther by a nearer road. The old castle had frequently
peeped out upon us from its elevated situation ; but
we were resolved to see all that could be seen,*" — and
a FreDch village^ for the first time, was not to be over-

dien io the diiguiae of sailors : who, stabbing the centmels, quickly
made themselTes masters of the place. Henry caused it afterwards to
be diimantled. In the first half of the eighteenth century it received
my serere treatment from pillage, for the purpose of erecting public
and private baOdings at Dieppe. The Revolution added to these
lavages : " Aigonid'hui ses tours, ses remparts, ce doqjon qui reten-
tirent poidant pfauieurs siddes des cris des combattans et de la victoire,
livrtfl maintenant au plus mome silence^ sont devenus le s^jour des
Mboox et des daeauz noctumes :** such is the solemn description of
diis venerable min bj the author of (he Itin4raire de JtoMx ; 1 8 1 6, p. 1 99.

DIEPPE.

looked. Accordingly we made a complete detour ;
and passing through the principal, or high street, ap-
proached the church. The bell was ringing for prayers
and we entered with the congregation. For a village
church, I hardly know a finer one than that of Arqaes :
it having much in common with portions of the cathe-
dral of Lincoln. Tlie upper part of the outer walls,
with the tower and roof of the nave, are however com-
paratively modem ; but the interior, which is light and
airy, may be of the latter end of the xiiith century.* This
interior is rather capacious, and may vie with any simi-
lar building, attached to a village, which the province
of Normandy (rich in ecclesiastical edifices) can boast
of. We had no time to wait the commencement of the
service, and indeed you will say we had already had a
sufficient portion ; but, on quitting the church, to asoead
the hill on which the castlftrftands, we passed a weO-
dressed young lady, with a iiikaiitibditBd lierpWlio ww
hastening to prayers, and who entettdtbeciiurdi with
the cleigyman, whom she ov ertook on the way. We
had reason to be well satisfied with this excellent lady ;
for we found that, to preserve the old cascle iVom ucter
destruction, she had purchased It «f government for .
about seven thousand fr0m ; and hf causing locks \
and other fiisteninga to be applied to the principal |
gates, she had sepnred it from the consent |4Uag9

* Tl^ lUUfwre de Rouen, IBmfflftSt «if»» vbiiitdlf j tlm Uili
jcimtdl il of tfw xitfa centwy. It poasessccl fiirnierly a buat of Hmmf,
ipf^ wUch !• wapfoted to have ^een iilaced tUm alter the
Wttle of An]iif^g»iQed^ Heaiyi
:^%lit chinch ivip jfiodimfti, occow||^ tejhc mim wa^Vtf ;

DIEPPE.

which used to be carried on within — ^for no one thought
of building, without demolishing a certain portion of
the castle for materials. To the best of my recollec-
tion, this lady's name is Barrois. She has certainly,
in one of its very best senses, " deserved well of her
country.'*

The sdte of the castle is admirable. Our approach
was to the western extremity; which, as you look
down, brings the village and church of Arques in the
back-ground. Mr. Lewis, inspii*ed I suppose by the
chaunt of the vespers, which we heard from our
elevated station — took out his pencil, and made the
following spirited little design.

DIEPPE.

If the eye were to be considered as a correct jndgpe,
this venerable pile, composed of hard flint-stone, inter-
mixed with brick, (but not in layers, after the Roman
feshion of uniting these two materials) would perhaps
claim precedence, on the score of antiquity, over every
other relic of the middle ages. A deep moat, now diy
pasture land, with a bold acclivity before you, should
seem to bid defiance, even in times of old, to the £90t
and the spear of the invader. There are circular towers
(as the view shews) at the extremities, and a square "ci-
tadel or donjon within. Its area is also very extensive,
smd perhaps yet retains its pristine limits as in the time
of William the Conqueror. The wars of Henry the
Fourth with the League helped to add to the previous
devastations; but, although one of the most ancient
and decayed-looking places of fortification imaginable —
and although, from the crumbling and broken outlines,
and the shelving of the banks rising from the moat, you
might expect it to yield within some few twenty years
to the ravages of time — yet I question if it be not tough
enough to outlive all the great great grand-children of
the present beholders of it! To the north, a good deal
of earth has been recently thrown against the bases of
the wall. The day harmonised admirably with the
venerable object before us. The sunshine lasted but for
a minute : when afterwards a gloom prevailed, and not
a single catch of radiant light gilded any portion of
the building. All was gray, and quiet, and of a sombre
aspect, — and whatyow, in your admiration of art, would
call in perfectly " fine keeping." Perhaps there is no
object which more powerfully excites meditation, and
calls forth the finer feelings connected with thoughts

DIEPPE.

upon the past, than that of an ancient, decayed, and
magnificently-situated castle. But all is here hushed ;
within and without. — ^Nor the harp of the minstrel, nor
the clang of armour, nor the echoes of the horn, nor the
uproar of the banquet — no, nor the invading nor the
repelling foe — are now heard or distinguished ! . . but —
It is time to wake out of this trance, and to pursue
our journey homeward. We descended the liill, bade a
long adieu to this venerable relic of the hardihood of
other times, and quickened our pace towards Dieppe.
As we gained upon the town, we began to discern groups
of rustics, as well as of bourgeoises, assembling and
mingling in the dance. ITie women never think of
wearing bonnets ; and you have little idea how bril-
Uantly the red and blue* (the very colours of Raffaelle's
Madonnas !) glanced backwards and forwards, amidst
the trunks of the fruit trees, to the sound of tlie spirit-
stirring violin. The high, stiff, starched cauchoise, with
its broad flappers, gave the finishing stroke to the
novelty and singularity of the scene; and to their credit
be it spoken, the women were nmch more tidily dressed
than the men. We soon became spectators at more
than one place of festivity. The couples are frequently
female, for want of a sufficient number of beans ; but,
whether correctly or incorrectly coupled, they dance
with earnestness, if not with agility. No foolish tricks,
or wanton mischief, ever disturbs the harmony of the
scene. It was a picture k la Teniers, without its occa-
sional grossness. "This then," said I to my companion,
" is what I have so often heard of the sabbath-gambols
of the French — and long may they enjoy them I .... for
* The blue gown and red petticoat } or vice versa.

DIEPPE.

they ai-e surely better than the brutal orgies of a pot-
house^ or the &natical ravings of the tabernacle." You
will please to remember^ my dear friend, that amidst
these groups, we discovered some score fiices which we
had noticed the same morning in the cathedral ; and
as you cannot convince a Frenchman, or a Frenchwo-
man, that tlie evening of the sabbath may be better
devoted to a quiet stroll abroad, or to the penml of
religious and instnictive books at home, the maaa of
people had better be so occupied than ... do worse

A late plain dinner, with our favourite vin ordinaii^
recruited our strength and kept us in perfectly gocid
humour with Dieppe. My companion, in the eyenio^^
made a sketch of the fijlle de chambrb, — an important
personage in my collection of costume — as yon mU
observe from the representation of her, here enclose£^.
She chose to put on lier best bib and tucker" upotl
the occasion — ^it being Sunday evening: so that yte
behold her to every possible advantage. I have reasoli
to think tliat this costume, with very few and sligirt
variations, has continued for several centuries.*!* The .
following and last day, spent at Dieppe, was as 'beaa*^
tiful as that of our voyage thither. Mr. LfCwis beggsk
at times with his pencil. He took a small bird's-^
view of the harbour, and woukl have made anothar
drawing of a very picturesque cliaracter — were it not
for the iGishing boats which continued to crowd into

* See the opposite Plate. The original thought it " un peu trop
ag^e."

t The dress of the sailors is the same as in the xivth century j and
so probably is that of the women. The illuminations in Froissard and
Monstrelet dearly give us the Norman cauchoise.

"0 (KPPK .

DIEPPE.

the basoD^ and, by their extended sails, to shut out
the view. He was also equally unfortunate in his
attempt at a sketch of the castle just above the town,*
to the north-west, but from another cause. On com-
mencing it, a centinel advanced, and brutally tore the
leaf out of his book — telling him it was ^ d^fendu/ He
was surely a boor of a centinel, and had never danced
on a Sunday evening ! To prohibit the drawing of an
unfortified place is quite a piece of absurdity ; and a
word to the Commandant would doubtless have equally
led to the chastisement of the centinel, and the gratifi-
cation of the a.rtist's wishes . . . but 9a ne vaut pas la
peine and I essayed to comfort Mr. L. upon his mis-
fortune.

Upon the whole the French are rather jealous of the
pencil of a British artist : for, on beginning the sketch
of the harbour, I was obliged to muster up all the
eloquence and logic I was master of, to persuade a
custom-house officer and a corps of gens-d^armes that
it was " tout-^fait une aflFaire pittoresque, et qui n'avoit
aucun rapport ^ la guerre.'* A surly " hon I" was the
only reply to my remonstrance ; but " bon" was cer-
tainly preferable to another " d^fendu ! "

The deportment of the Zh'e/^pou towards the English,
is, upon the whole, rather gracious than otherwise;
because the town profits by the liberality and love of
expense of the latter. Yet the young ones, ais soon as

^ It is built upon the scite of an old castle which was demolished at
the end of the xiith century ; and the townsmen^ fearing that it might
be rendered an important position to the Leaguers^ in the xvith cen-
tury, proceeded to dismantle it. It was also materially injured in the
following century.

DIEPPE.

they can lisp^ are put in training for pronouncing the'
G — d — ; and a few horribly-deformed and importunate
beggars are for ever assailing the doors of the hotels.
But beggary is nothing like so frightful an evil as I had
anticipated. The general aspect of the town seems to
indicate the poverty of the inhabitants ; their houses
being too vast to be entirely occupied* The Boulevards,
&cing the new bason, left unfinished by Napoleon^ or
rather facing the range of meadows that run towards
the village of Arques, might be advantageously occu-
pied with houses ; but there is no speculation, and no
love of picturesque, among the French. I should not
be surprised, were the peace to continue a dozen years,
(and God send it may, three times three dozen of
years !) if a few adventurous English caused some more
houses to be built, to be tenanted on easy terms, as a
summer watering-place for those of their countrymen
who can only muster up courage sufficient just to put
their feet upon Gallic Ground. The immediate neigh-
bourhood of Dieppe, and its proximity to Rx)uen and
Paris, are inducements of no ordinary kind.

Bonaparte seems to have been veiy anxious about the
strengthening of the harbour ; the navigation into which
is somewhat difficult and intricate. The sides of the
walls, as you enter, are lofty, steep, and strong ; and
raised batteries would render any hostile approach
extremely hazardous to the assailants.

There is no ship-building at this moment going on :
the ribs of about half a dozen, half rotting, small mer-
chant-craft being all that is discernible. But much is
projected, and much is hoped from such projects.
Dieppe has questionless many local advantages both by

DIEPPE.

land and by sea ; yet it will require a long course of
years to infuse confidence and beget a love of enter-
prise. In spite of all the naval zealy it is here exhibited
chiefly as affording means of subsistence from the fish-
eries. The army will always be the favourite, even at a
sear port. A regiment marched into the town on Monday
evening. The men, were intoxicated — and the officers
not only partook of the general inebriety, but paraded
the streets arm in arm with the common men. This is
equally a decoy and a disgrace — and dared not have
been shewn at Versailles, or at Paris. I must not how-
ever conclude my Dieppe journal without telling you
that I hunted far and near for a good bookseller and
some old books — ^but found nothing worth the search^
except a well-printed old Rouen Missal, and a Terence
by Badius Ascensius. The booksellers are supplied with
books chiefly from Rouen; the local press being too
contemptible to mention. In respect to ^ hwA tWOtOt^
my countrymen had been beforehand with me ; and I
was told strange anecdotes of their lucky trouvailles^
and of their unlimited generosity. May this ever attend
them !

LETTER IV.

ROUEN. APPROACH. BOULEVARDS. POPULATION.
STREET SCENERY.

Here I am, my excellent good friend, in the most
extraordinary city in the world. One rubs one's eyes,
and fancies one is dreaming, upon being carried through
the streets of this old-fashioned place : or that, by some
secret talismanic touch, we are absolutely mingling
with human beings, and objects of art, at the com-*
mencement of the xvith century : so very curious, and
out of the common routine of things, is almost every
object connected with Rouen. But before I commence
my observations upon the town, I must give you a brief
sketch of my journey thither.

Previously to leaving Dieppe, we had obtained our
regular circumstantial passports. No recruit was ever
more exactly measured than were Mr. L. and myself ;
and Linnseus could not have wiitten down the charac-
teristics of a plant with more scrupulous accuracy than
did the municipal officer survey and describe " Mes-
sieurs les Anglois.*" You should know, in few words,
that there is a printed list of the features ; so that the
scribe has only to add the epithet in writing to each
particular feature.

We had bespoke our places in the cabriolet of the
Diligence, which just holds three, tolerably comfort-
able; provided there be a disposition to accommodate

BOUEN.

each other. This cabriolet, as you have been often told^
is a sort of a buggy, or phaeton seat, with a covering of
leather, in the front of the coach. It is fortified with a
stiff leathern apron, upon the top of which is a piece of
iron, covered with the leather, to fasten firmly by means
of a hook on the peipendicular supporter of the head«
There are stiffish leathern curtains on each side, to be
drawn, if necessary, as a protection agsdnst the rain, &c.
You lean upon the bar, or top of this leathern apron^
which is no very uncomfortable resting-place. And
thus we took leave of Dieppe, on the 4th day after our
arrival there. As we were seated in the cabriolet, we
could scarcely refrain from loud laughter at the novelty
of our situation, and the grotesqueness of the convey-
ance. Our postilion was a rare specimen of his species;
and a perfectly unique cofpy. He fancied himself, I suf^
pose, rather getting " into the vale of years,'* and had
contrived to tinge his cheeks with a plentiful portion
of rouge. His platted and powdered hair was sur-
mounted with a battered black hat, tricked off with
&ded ribband : his jacket was dark blue velvet, with
the insignia of his order upon his left arm. What struck
us as not a little singular, his countenance was no very
&int resemblance of that of Voltaire^ when he might
have been verging towards his sixtieth year. Most
assuredly he resembled him in his elongated chin, and
the s^castic expression of his mouth. We rolled mer-
rily along — ^th^ horses sometimes spreading, and some-
times closing, according to the size of the streets through
which we were compelled to pass. Nothing apparently
can be more bungling than the management of the
conveyance^ in going down hill. There is no such

ROUEN.

thing as a drag-chain; and at times the whole weight
of the machine seems to press upon the haunches of the
wheel-horses, — who, without breeching, go staggering
along, sometimes at right angles, sometimes almost in
one continued strait line with each other, turning face
to face. The reins and harness are of cord; which,
however, keep together pretty well. The postilion
endeavours to break the rapidity of the descent by
conducting the wheels over piles of gravel or rubbish,
which are laid at the sides of the road, near the ditch ;
so that, to those sitting in the cabriolet, and overlook-
ing the whole process, the eflFect, with weak nerves, is
absolutely terrific. They stop httle in changing horses,
and the Diligence is certainly well managed ; and
in general no accidents occur. We carried with us
about fifty thousand francs of government money, and
a cavalry soldier (one of the gens-darmes) accompanied
us, in consequence, all the way to Rouen.

The road from Dieppe to Rouen is wide, hard, and
in excellent condition. There are few or no hedges,
but rows of apple-trees afford a sufficient line of de-
markation . The country is open, and gently undulating ;
with scarcely any glimpses of what is called forest-
scenery, till you get towards the conclusion of the first
stage. There are several sharp ascents and descents ;
yet the conducteur does not request the passengers to
get down and walk. Nothing particularly strikes you
till you approach Malaunaiy within about half a dozen
miles of Rouen, and of course after the last change of
horses. The environs of this beautiful village repay
you for every species of disappointment, if any should
have been experienced. The rising banks of a brisk

ROUEN.

serpentine trout stream are studded with white houses,
in which are cotton manufactories that appear to be
carried on with spirit and success. Above these houses
are hanging woods; and though the early spring would
scwcely have coated the branches with green in our
own country, yet here there was a general freshness of
verdure, intermingled with the ruddy blossom of the
apple — altogether rejoicing the eye and delighting the
heart. Occasionally there were delicious spots, which
the taste and wealth of an Englishman would have
embellished to every possible degree of advantage. But
wealth, for the gratification of picturesque taste, is a
superfluity that will not fall to the lot of the French.
The Revolution seems to have drained their purses, as
well as daunted their love of enterprise, and thinned
their population. Along the road-side there were some
fiew houses of entertainment; and we observed the
emptied cabriolet and stationary voiture, by the side of
the gardens, where Monsieur and Madame, with their
families, tripped lightly along the vistos, and smirked
as John Bull saluted them! Moving vehicles, and
numerous riding and walking groups, increased upon
us, and every thing announced that we were approach-
ing a great and populous city. Let me tell you, how-
ever, that we had accomplished the last eight miles
within an hour ; but during the preceding stages we had
not exceeded five miles in the hour.

The approach to Rouen is indeed magnificent. I
speak of the immediate approach ; after you reach the
top of a considerable rise, and are stopped by the bar-
riers. You then look down a strait, broad, and strongly
paved road, lined with a treble row of trees on each side.

KOUEN.

As the foliage was not thickly set, we could discern,
through the delicately-clothed branches, the tapering
spire of the Cathedral^ and the more massive tower of the
Ahhaye de St. Ouen — ^with hanging gardens, and white
houses, to the left — covering a richly cultivated ridge <rf
hills, which sink, as it were into the Boulevards ; and
which is called the Faubourg Cauchoisb. Perhaps
the Cathedral and St. Ouen are rather more in front ;
yet, with the town, they incline somewhat to the left : liie
whole being built upon a slope. To the right, throu^
the trees, you see the river Seine (here of no despicable
depth or breadth) covered with boats and vessels in
motion : the voice of commerce, and the stir of indus-
try, cheering and animating you as you approach the
town. We were told that almost every vessel which we
saw (some of them of two hundred, and even of three
hundred tons burden) was filled with brandy and wine.
The lamps are suspended from the centre of long
ropes, across the road ; and the whole scene is of a
truly novel and imposing character. But how shall I
convey to you an idea of what I experienced, as, turn-
ing to the left, and leaving the broader streets which
flank the quay, we began to enter the penetralia of
this truly antiquated town. What narrow streets,
what overhanging houses, what bizarre,* capricious

* The French themselves acknowledge that the houses and streets
are absolutely ''f rightful.** I strove frequently to defend them on
principles of picturesque taste^ and from the association of ideas arinng
from antiquity — but I should hope the defects of my speech^ rather
than the weakness of my arguments^ failed to produce the desired
effect. In Zeillefs European Topography, 1655^ &c. folio^ there is a
bird's-eye view of Rouen^ of the date of 1620, [Rothomagvs, Rovan.]
about two feet two inches in lengthy by ten inches in width. It shows

EOUEN.

ornamenta^what a mixture of mod^n with ancient
art — what fragments or rather ruins, of old delicately-

the old stone bridge (now destroyed) with two of the central arches
brokeo down— *and therefore impassable. The walls and ramparts
are entire, and the view appears to be taken from the south-east
point. The hills surroimding it are thickly wooded. It exhibits but
indifierent art, yet is a pleasing print. There is another plate im-
mediately fbUowing it, of the date of 1655, where the bridge of boats
appears to the east of the old stone bridge, nearly one-half of whidi
latter is destroyed. This view is a ground plan : the walls, &c. are
entire 5 and the gardens, to the left of the western iauxbourgs, appear
rich and endless.

When I was at Paris, I examined, as the Abbd De la Rue advised
me, the three volumes of Drawings and Prints relating to Normandy,
which once belonged to De Boze, and are now to be found in the
BUfL du Roy, Of their general merit this is not the place to say a word $
but as connected with the preceding, and for the sake of juxta-positicm,
it may be as well to notice a few more old prints of Rouen. There
are three pretty etchings of the ruins of the old stone bridge by Israel
SUvestre, A bird*s-eye view of the town, pretty much in the style of
that first above mentioned, after a painting by Georgvas Hoefiutgle,
A man and woman are in the foreground. It is an oblong clever
print. There is a duplicate of it. There is a laige ^und plan of
Rouen^ with a small view in the comer : likewise an oblong view
in profile, as it were, by SUvestre: weU engraved. Also a laxge bird's-
eye view, from a position, nearer than the two preceding, — sold by
H. JuiUot'-proche les grands Augustins au bout du pont neuf avec
priu, &c. : a black and badly-engraved print. Several similar views
not worth describing. There is an immense print, six feet, nine inches,
by two feet in width, of Rouen and its ramparts, published by
Jansen at Amsterdam in 1631, with letter- press beneath. The inscrip-
tion above is in large white capital letters upon a black ground. It is
useful for the detail 3 but the effect is bad.

There has been recently (1817) published a Carte Topographique de
la,f^ etdesFctuxbourgs de R^uen ; being a ground plan of the whole.
It is a large and handsome map, but perti^ too4elicately executed

42 BX)UEN.

built Gothic churches — ^what signs of former and of
modem devastation ! — ^what fountains, gutters, groups
of never-ceasing men, women, and children, all gay,
all occupied, and all apparently happy ! The Rue de la
Grosse Horloge (so called from a huge, clumsy, anti-
quated clock which goes across the street) struck us
as not among the least singular streets of Rouen!
Amazed, and half-bewildered, we turned floundering
from street to street, with the eyes of the gazing mul-
titude upon us, — " \oilk des Anglois !" On reaching
the office of the Diligence, we prepared to put our
baggage in motion for the Hotel-Vately the favourite
inn of the English. Porters appeared, with their
hottes upon their backs ; and a burden of at least
two hundred and fifty pounds was placed upon one of
those machines, and marched away with, in all the
triumph of conscious skill and strength. The hotte
is well contrived, causing the principal weight of
the burden to fell horizontally across the shoulders,
in an upright position, which is infinitely preferable to
the perpendicular pressure, from the English knoiy
upon the nape of the neck and shoulders. In five
minutes we were in the court-yard of the hotel, in the
centre of which was a large newly-constructed public
vehicle caUed a velocifere. The springs are enormous,
but there is much good sense in the planning of the
whole — and I thought that it savoured of British inge-
nuity, before I was told of the springs being actually
modelled after those of our own vehicles.

Ibr its svEe, and the variety of objects which it embraces. It ianever-
theless very useful^ and has materially assisted me in designating with
accuracy the^veral places above mentioned.

BOUEN;

I commenced settling our plans by steuring roomiSi
and bespeaking board and lodging according to art.**
The landlady, a civil little woman, soon convinced ns
that she was perfect mistress of her occupation, by an-
ticipating many of our wants, and answering all pur
queries in a very good-humoured and satisfactory
manner. The relics of a table d^hdte, hashed up in the
French style, was not the most agreeable dinner we
could have desired for our first meal — especially when
five francs were charged for one re-boiled fowl enfiladed
by sorel sauce I However, here we are ; here we have
been these two days ; and here we purpose staying till
my particular objects of research shall have been ac-
complished. In spite of their national antipathies, the
French cannot but admit that in general les Anglois
sent bien bons et tvhs propres." On the evening of
our arrival, we were soon saluted by a laquais de
place — the leech-like hanger-on of every hotel — ^who
begged to know if we would walk upon the Boule-
vards. We consented ; turned to the right ; and, gra-
dually rising, gained a considerable eminence. Again
we turned to the right, walking upon a raised prome-
nade ; while the blossoms of the pear and apple trees,
within a hundred walled gardens, perfumed the air
with their delicious fragrance. As we continued our
route along the Boulevard Beauvoisine, we gained one
of the most interesting and commanding views ima-
ginable of the city of Rouen — just at that moment
lighted up by the golden rays of a glorious setting sun
— ^which gave a broader and mellower tone to the
shadows upon the Cathedral and the Ahhey of St.
Ouen. The locality of Rouen renders it necessarily
1

ROUEN.

picturesque, view it from what station you will. To
convince you of this, examine the following sketch,
made but yesterday — from nearly the same spot, only
a little more elevated — by the inde&itigable graphic
companion of my tour.

ROUEN.

The population of Rouen should seem to be after
* the Chinese £[ishion : in other words, of an enormous
extent. It is supposed to amount to full one hundred
thousand souls. In truth, there is no end to the suc-
cession of human beings. They swarm like bees, and
like bees are busy in bringing home the produce of
their industry. You have all the bustle and agitation
of Cheqiride and Comhill ; only that the ever-moving
aeoie is carried on within limits one-half as broad.
Conceive Bucklersbury, Cannon-street, and Thames-
street^ — and yet you cannot conceive the narrow streets
of Rouen — ^filled with the flaunting cauchoise,and echo-
iqg to the eteraal tramp of the sabot. Here they are ;
men^ women, and children, all abroad in the very
cmtre of the streets — alternately encountering the
lyl^giiing of the gutter, and the jostling of their towns-
moDi — while the swift cabriolet, or slow-paced cart^ or
thmidering diligence, severs them, and scatters them
abroad^ only that they may seem to be yet more con-
deasefy united. Mr. L. with the natural enthusiasm
of Us profession, becomes daily more in ecstacies with
aU around him ... for myself, it is with difficulty I am
penoaded that I am not living in the times of our
Henry VIII. and of their Francis I. ; and am half dis-
posed to inquire after the residence of George Tailleur
the printer-^he associate, or foreign agent, of your
bronrite PjfnsonJ^ You will call this epistle a rare
rlMfiaody : but let it pass. To-morrow, and a few fol-
lowing days,

.... to fresh fields and pastures new •
Pot fields** yon must read churches ; and for " pastures**

* See the BibUographkal Decameron, vol. ii. p. 1S7> 8*
VOL. I. D

ROUEN.

the public library, booksellers* shops, and printers*
offices. A thousand times fistrewell.

P. S. I cannot refrain from adding a postscript. Not-
withstanding all those tonneaus ffeau de vie and du
vin ordinaire y of which I spoke in the body of this letter,
we have been here upwards of forty-eight hours, and
have not yet encountered a drunken person. Thdr
brandy-shops (liere, as well as at Dieppe) are however
as numerous as our pot-houses.

LETTER V.

ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. THE CATHEDRAL.
MONUMENTS. RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. THE ABBEY
OF ST. OUEN. THE CHURCHES OF ST. MACLOU, ST.
VINCENT, ST. VIVIEN, ST. GERVAIS, AND ST. PAUL.

I HAVE now made myself pretty well acquainted with
the locale of Rouen. How shall I convey to you a
stimmary, and yet a satisfactory, description of it ? It
cannot be done. Let me prose away, then, as I list
— and for^ve all the minuteness, and even tautology,
of detml which you may encounter. You love old
drarches, old books, and relics of ancient art. These
"be my themes, therefore: so fancy yourself either
strolling leisurely with me arm in arm, in the streets,
or sitting at my elbow, conning over the marvellous
things that this city contains. First for the Cathe-
dral : — ^for what traveller of taste does not doff his
bonnet to the mother church of the town through
which he happens to be travelling— or in which he
takes up a temporary abode? You may remember
that I gave you a glimpse of this Cathedral in my
last letter, as we descended from the barriers down the
pav^, towards the city. At that time only its two end
towers, and central spire-crowned tower, were visible.
Now let us ^proach it in good earnest. The west-
front,* always the forte of the architect's skill, strikes

* A view of this west front will be found in Mr. Cotman's Norman
JnHquUiei.

EOUEN.

you as you go down, or come up, the pimoipal street;
or La Rue des Cannes j which seems to biseetittfejtown
into equal parts. A small dpen «pM6^ (which tow-
ever has been miserably encroaclied upon .rby tpetly
shops) called tbid^lawer^gardmf is before itbis iirMteisp
front — so that it has some bttle. breathing jfOoia'iiq
which to expand its beauties to the wondering >^6»Qf
the beholder. In my' poor judgmentvrtlus WMti^
front has very few elevations comparable with It^WreiwH
including those of Lincoln and Ywk. - Iti mayl ftHh
aibly want the severe, simple, breadth of this lormfr^
but it unites vastness of outline with miautepieai|>irf
detail in a very extraordinary manner. TJjjie pOMh
meats, especialiy upon the three porches, betwecy^tthe
two towers, are numerous, rich, apd for the gE«pfenr
patft even yet entice :~in fi^te of the Calvimist^lwi^ths
IVench revolution, and, time. ^ Among tbeJowwi Aod
smaller basso retievofil upop tJaese pdrcbciSi. i^ tjbft>i«|^
ject 'of the daughter of Herodiaa dancing l^omHeiyftci
She is mamieuvering.oB her bands, bar feet bein^ at|h-

in width,
plates

frbm'the drawUgS of 'I^glois, wek^ Tcll^ihddec^ repniilkilMtoto
oftheorigintolii » ' ... vi!»*»v --im,

fmtpUe4^the,C€hitMl Tlie vb!9^^ commit ksfilf^
throughout nearly the whole of the towns in Normandy, and especdaUy
m%ie cathedrals, towards the year 1560, afibnl melani6hbly'j^r&okof
the effects of religious animosities — however teal, or fana^riafj^^ tiU^it
have been the provocations experienced. But the 'Cdlviii!^^%^
always a bitter an^ ferocious sect. Fommenlye', in his qtla^^iiiiU^
Htftotre de V£glise ' Caihedrate de Jtbuen, 1686^ hak'id^vbtid db^y
one hundred pagds to an acfo^ilnt of taiViiiid^i ikt^fSreddfic^'/ ^\ d6-
157. Farin is necessarily brie?. ' * • •

ROUEN.

vardfl. To tfae.rigfat, the decapitation of St. John is
lAing place.

: '^Of the two towers, at the western extremity, on look-
'at the cathedral, that to the left, or the northern
kmeTy is very much the older — ^perhaps of the early
part ^ofihe nith century, if not of the latter part of
ilie'Xtthi^ It wants, however, the elegance of the
Oipporite, or southern tower, which I imagine to be of
ibd xivth century; but of which the upper part is
oiarly of the sixteenth.

' Before I take you into the cathedral, you must just
step on each side to obtain a view of the transept
daMB. They are both extremely elaborate in their
•dalptore, but the exterior approach to the northern is
WBifnfW and confined — little frequented — and half
<sh6k6d with every species of revolting nuisance. The
Mttthem transept makes amends for the defects of its
nppombe neighbour. The space before it is devoted to
itwrlof v^table market: curious old houses flank
<Us space : and the ascent to the door, but more especi-
ally the curiously sculptured porch itself, with the open
spaces in the upper part — flight, fanciful, and striking
to a degree — ^produce an effect as pleasing as it is extra-
ordinary. Add to this, the ever-restless feet of suppli-
ants, going in and coming out — the worn pavement,
and the frittered ornaments, in consequence — seem to

* The author of the Description Historique de Notre Dame de Rouen,
\Si6, 8vo. p. 13, 13, (judiciously compiled from the larger works of
Pmnmerfi^e and Farm) assigns the year 1100 as that of the com-
H^^lioement of the building of this tower. He seems to think it pro-
bable that it was built upon the scite of the ancient tower erected by
St. Romanus, about the year 633. The upper part of the tower is
howerer of the end of the xvth.. centuiy.

ROUEN.

convince you that the ardour and activity of devotion-
are almost equal to that of business. It was in firbjtt
of this south transept, for five successive days, sitting
within the chamber of a miserable entresol^ (over
what in England we should call a liquor-shop) that,
Mr. Lewis made the enchanting drawing which ac-
companies this dispatch.*

As you enter the cathedral, at the centre door, by
descending two steps, you are struck with the length
and loftiness of the nave, and at the lightness of the
galliery which runs along the upper part of it. By a
gallery, I mean a sort of open work, or passage left be^
tween the upper ornamental arches and the solid walls.
This continues throughout the choir also. Perhaps
the nave is too narrow for its length. The lantern of
the central large tower is beautifully light and striking.
It is supported by four massive clustered pillarsi
about forty feet in circumference ; but on casting youir
eye downwards, you are shocked at the tasteless divi-
sion of the choir from the nave by what iis called a Gre^
dan screen : and the interior of the transepts has under-
gone a like preposterous restoration. The rose windows
of the transepts, and that at the west end of the nave^
merit your attention and commendation. I know you
will be anxious to have an account of monuments^ stain-
ed glass, and of all the et ceteras of cathedral accom^
paniments. But remember, I am not only not an archi-
tectural antiquary, but, in order to satisfy your wishes
on tliis head, you must absolutely read professional
treatises — till the enterprising and well-directed taste

* See the opposite plati. M. Cotman intends publishing a portion
of the same subject; upon a lai^ger scale^ as an etching.

ROUEN.

of Mr. Britton send some British artist over to do jus-
tice to the manifold beauties of this venerable building.
Yet the drawings and etchings of M. Cotman, of which
I heard much from the inhabitants^ may possibly
render the enterprise of Mr. Britton useless. I could
not avoid noticing, to the right, upon entrance, perhaps
the oldest side chapel in the cathedral ; of a date little
less ancient than that of the northern tower, before
mentioned. It contains by much the finest specimens
of stained glass— of the early part of the xvith century.
The capitals of the pillars are of a twelfth century aspect
— ^for I dread the chastisement of our friend N****** if
I carry them only into the last ten years of the eleventh !
There is also some beautiful stained glass on each side
of the Chapel of the Vir^n,* behind the choir ; but
although very ancient, it is the less interesting, as
not being composed of groups, or of historical subjects.
Yet, in this, as in almost all the churches which I
have seen, frightful devastations have been made
among the stained-glass windows by the fury of the
Revolutionists.

Respecting the Monuments, I have no time, and
less inclination, to be copiously minute : never having
possessed that patient spirit of tomb-stone chronicling
which is painfully evident even in the pages of some of

* This chapel is about ninety-five English feet in length, by thirty
in width, and sixty in heighth. The sprawling painting by Philippe de
Champagne, at the end of it, has no other merit than that of coTering
so many square feet of wall. The architecture of this chapel is of
the xivth century : the stained glass windows are of the latter end of the
xvth. On going the circuit of the cathedral, one is surprised to count
not fewer than twenty-Jive chapels.

Boum

oiir.fcMt 'anti^Mite. -Yet 'you'Otight to know that the

* thefamnu BibLik}."] M. Gilbert^ the author ot th^ Descriptum, &o.
(mentioned at page 49> ante) says that both Rollo and his son William
were buried in the south side of the cathedral, and that their remains
were discovered about the year 1900> on building the present choir — and
tiiat it was Rollo who built the ancient cathedral — ** according to
Ordericus Vitalis and other contemporaneous historians," p. 56. But
it must be observed that Vitalis, (as may be seen in Duchesne's Hisi,
Normann, Script, p. 459) says not a word about it : and from the pages
of the Neustria Pia, (9>300-l) it should seem that Rollo was rather
partial to the Abbey of St. Ouen. He died in 917. On the opposite
dufiel is tibe tomb of his son William Longesp^« who wastakai
oiS ,^P9ll4i#imd|f in 944» «od his reinaias earned for iaterment to this
Cf^O^^djpnd*:^ Jhfl.imonuBKental inscriptions of these are as fbUoir :
Pommeraye {p. 68) having given the mart ancient ones.

B09J4>. WiLUAM.

Hie positUB est Hie positus est

>.* RoUo GuiUelmiis IHctus Longua Spala

oNMQiiMi«8ttttritiVart«CBb RoUoais FUhii,

.fliM. .'. vRestituln DaaLNormsBBin

; ,,Ft}iip9l)uxCoiiditorP8^ IVoditorie OccUus occccoxxsv.

A FVancone Archiep. Rotom. Ossa Ipsius in veteri S«nctuar|o,

Baj^tizatus Anno Dccccxiii. Ubi nunc est Caput Naris Primum

Obiit Anno Dccccxvii. Condita, Transjato Altari, Hie

Ossa fpsiiis in veteriBanctuario CDilocata sunt k B. Manrilio

Nunc capite Natis Primnm Archiepisc. Rotom.

- ' CmOta, Anno MXJuii.
• ^Tteilhrto AltMTi, Golldctta
So&ib&B. Maorilio Ardiiep. Rotom.
An. uuKiiu

Qu^ toiraids the end of the choir, at the back of the high altar, aie
iTTi<?auni|pnt,al inscr^ons yet more interesting to Englishmen. The
brother of Richard I. Richard 1. himself, and John Duke of Bedfofd.
Aftjth^ are short I shall give them : ,

..^c "i Richard L Hbnrt ms Yqukobiu

.:/•.:'! j'A- ■ ■ T. cw IficJaoet

ROUEN.

dowB to the lights upon eutering ; although his monu-
iDffliA(WnaQt.JtK^ older than tha xiiith century. As you

NonnaamaB Duds Richardi Regis Angliae

GoR Lbonis Dx€Ti Cor Leonis Dicti FVater

Obiit Anno Obiit Anno

mcxcix. mclxxxiii.
John Duke of Bedford.

Ad dextrum Altaris Latus
Jacet

lOANNBS Dux BeTFORDI

Normannise pro Rex
Obiit Anno

MCCCCXXXV.

IM Diike't tott^ivSl be seen engraved in San^^hf^s Getteatogteat Bb^
UUhft p. 914^ ivlridi plate, in faxX^ is the identical one uted hj DM»rel \
^vho had the singularly good fortune to decorate his Anglo-Nonnan
Antiquities witiMMftmny expense to himself.

The above is the fiunous Duke of Bedford, of biUiamaniacal cele-
brity. Consult for one minute the BihL Decameron, to)* !• P* cxxxvi.
There is a curious chapter in Fommeraye*8 Histaire de VEgUie CeUhe-
drale de Rouen, p. SOS, respecting the Duke's tddng the habit of a
canon of the cathedral. He attended, with his first ^vrife, Anne of Bur-
9U1IDY, and threw himself upon the liberality and kindness of the monks,
to be received by them as one of their order : " il les prioit d*6tre re9eu
panny eux comme un, de leurs fr^res, et d'avoir tous les jours distnbu*
tion de pain et de vin^ et pour marque de fr^temit^ d'etre v^tu du sur-
plis et de I'aumusse : . comme aussi d*6tre a3aoci^, luy et sa tr^ gdn^-
reuse et tr^ iUustre Spouse, aux suffrages de leur oompagnie, et k la
participation de tous les biens qu'il plaira k Dieu leur domier la grace
d*op6rer,*' p. 204 . A grand procession marked the day of the Duke's
admission into the monkish fraternity. The whole of diis, with the
Duke*s snpistb presents to the sacristy, and his dining with his Duchess,
and reoeMsg^their portk>n of eight loaves and Ibur gallons of tme,"
aN» distioleUy-itttitated by the minute Pommeraye.

Sandford, after telling us that he ^nks there never was any por-
traiture*' of the Duke, tlius sums up his character. He was justly
accounted ooA.of Ijhe best generals that ever blossomed out of the royal
stem oi thunAQwmn. His valour was not mofettnftk to Us enemies

ROUEN.

approach the Ch&pd of the Firgin,yoja pass by au
andeni iftomiiMiit, ito the left, of a recumbent Bishi^,

reposing behind a thin pillar, within a vastly-pretty
ornamented Gothic arch. To the eye of a tastefiil anti-
quary, this cannot fail to have its due attraction. While
however we are treading upon hallowed ground, ren-
dered if possible more sacred by the ashes of the illus-
trious dead, let us move gently onwards towards the
Chapel of the Firgin — behind the choir. See what bold
and brilliant monumental figures are yonder, to the
right of the altar ! How gracefully they kneel, and how
devoutly they pray ! They are the figures of the Car-
DiNAjus d'Amboisb* — uucle and nephew : — ^the former,

than ikis memory honourable 3 for (doubtful whether with more glory to
hinii or to tfae speaker) King Lewis the Eleventh^ being counselled by
oertain envious persons to deface his tomb (wherein with him^ auth
onej was buried all English men*s good ftDrtune ih France) used Uieae
indeed prineely words : ' What honour shaU it be to us, or you, to break
this monument, and to puU out of the ground the bones Hiif> whom,
in his life* time, neither my. &ther nor your progenitors, with aU th«if
puissance, were once able to make flie a foot backwarde ? who, by ids
stren^k, policy and wit, kept them aU out of the principal domiaielis
of Trance, and out of this noble dudiy of Normandy ? Wherefoi^, 1
aay first, God sats his Sovl ; and let his body now lie in rest, which,
when he was aHve, would have disquieted the proudest of us all. And
for THis#ToicB, r assurt you it is not so worthy or convement as his
honour and acts have deserved.* " p. 514-5, £d. I707.

the CAaniNALS d*Amboi8e.] Fmnce can boast of few brighter orna-
ments of church and of state than were these Cardinals : both of the
Christian name of Oboegx. The uncle died in 1510 : the nephew abdut
thirty years afterwards. It was the unde, minister of Louis XTI. w1ii6
diverted the rivers of Robec and Auhette so as to pass through the city of
Booeii for the purpose of dyeing and manufacturing woollen cloths.
He aba caoaed to be built, fX his^wn expense^ the whdeof the iapade
•oTthe west ftont, between the towers^ running over the andent porches

ROUEN.

minister of Louis XII. and (what does not neoessariiy,
fcM&Wy bnt wfaat ghres him an infiniteljr higher olaim.

— ''fiiU (aajs Gilbert) of the moat beautiful fitogrpc-k^oking W9fV/
Hie magnificent tomb, above mentioned^ waa executed at ,chaijg;e
and coat of the nephew, and finished in 1522 The names of the artL^
employed upon it are, unfortunately, unknown. It is abouViwenty-^iree
feet high, by sevefiteen In length ; and displays the ft>Ifo1rii^ ^hscii^
tkm:

rABTOm SRAM OLBRI, POPULI rATBR, AURIA ti^B

LILIA SUBDSaANT, QUKRCU8 BT IPSA MIHI.
MORTUUS BN lACBO, MORTB BXTINGUUNTUR H0N0RB8 :
AT VIRTUS MORTIS NB8CIA, MORTE VIRBT.

" Hub sumptuous monument was erected in the year 15^, by'Geoige
d'Amboifle, the nephew, when he was only Archbishop of RoiKn,'aiid
had no great expectation of obtuning the purple ; so that his statue,
wfaidi wna at that time placed on the mausoleum, represented him
dressed in his archiepisoopal habit : but as soon as he had procured a
cardiiial's hat, he ordered his statue to be taken down, and replaced by
tiiat which we now see. This mausoleum is said to have been seven
years in making.'* Ducarbl; p. 19. I wish Ducarel had stated hid
andiority for this anecdote. The word quercus," in the above imcrip-
tkm, alludes to Pc^ Julius 11. who was of the house of Rovxra : M is
the ItaUan word latinised. Perhaps the three greatest ministers which
Frenoe ever possessed, were Amboise, Sully, and Colbert. Voltaire,
who always loved a sneer at dmrchmen, says, that if Amboise had but
(me benefice in his own diocese, the wfiole Kingdom of Prance served
him for a tecond ! It may have been so ; for the Archbishop died
immensely rich — leaving (according to the authors of the Gallia Chris-
tiana, vol. xi. col. 96,) not less than 300,000 crowns (aureorum, qu. ?)
bdiind him— but then " he made the poor hib heirs, and willed that
th^ should enjoy every thing which he had accumulated by means of
his jffchiepiscopal, or other, revenues." Pope Julius 11. pretended that
Amboise had no right, as a churchman, to leave such an immense pio-
perty behind him: buttheKmg (Louis XII.) was of a different qiimon;
and, on iht other hand, forbade the interference of the Pope in the din
posMkm of private pn^perty. The Archbishop's improvemeiita in tht

ROUEN.

upon the gratitude of posterity) the restorer and beau-
l^er of the glorious building in which you are contem-
plating his figure ! This splendid monument is entirely
of black and white marble, of the early part of the six-
teenth century. The figures just mentioned are of white
marble, kneeling upon cushions, beneath a rich canopy
of Gothic firet-work. They are in their professional robes;
their heads are bare, exhibiting the tonsure, with the hair
in one large curl behind. A small whole-length figure of
St. George, their tutelary saint, is below them, in gilded

Cathedral alone shewed the liberality and munificence of his cha-
racter. His letters must be interesting ; and especially those to Francis
de Paula (of the order of the Minimes, to which order the Cardinal was
much attached)^ of whom he was very fond. The Cardinal died in his
fiftieth year only $ and his funeral was graced and honoured by the pre-
sence of his royal master. Ouicciardini calls him the oracle and right
arm of Louis." Of eight brothers, whom he left behind, four attained
to the episcopal rank. His nephew succeeded him as Archbishop. See
also Historia Genecdogica Magnahm Erancke ; voL vii. p. 129 : quoted
in the work last mentioned.

It was during the archiepiscopacy of the successor of the nephew of
Amboise — namely, that of Charles of Bourbon — that the Calvmistic
persecution commenced. Tunc vero coepit civitas, dicecesis, imiver-
saqueprovincia lamentabilem in modum conflictari, ssvientibus ob reli-
gicHiis dissidia plusquam civilibus bellis," &c. But then the good Arch-
bishop, however bountiful he might have been towards the poor at
Roficevalles, (when he escorted Philip H.'s first wife Elizabeth, daughter
of Henry U. to the confines of Spain, after he had married her to that
wretched monarch) should not have inflamed the irritated minds of
the Calvinists, by burning alive, in 1559, John Coitin, one of their
most eminent preachers ; by way of striking terror into the rest ! • .Well
might the Chronicler observe, as the result, *' novas secta ilia in dies
acquirebat vires.*' About 1560-2 the Calvinists got the upper hands
and repaid the Catholics with a vengeance ! Charles of Bourbon died
in 1590 : so that he had an arduous and agitated time of it.

jtingoished. Take one — as a specimen— rrepresenting
Charity.

Tbe cross and the heart were mutilated dijuivg, thp
Rr^lutaon. These figures again are flanked by «ght
smklter' ones, placed in eafved iucIkb; while above
thM/'ln'turn, kre' the twelve Apbsthts^ not 'le^i hmt^
Urally executed* . 1

irlfhtAiHMiii^tcased hya, faBlf>doien- ngged-coatadiiule A^gne4> <vbo
iofipqi^ujip 1': ito moiiiit the tow<er." . fintiiie Gbmax, T^jtfif, ^Snpf*
up loo^rexfsts there. ThisbeUwaa lurokeii in the year 179|6> on die
airiTal of Loiiis XVI. at Rouen ; and during the revplutionaiy period
o( TifsS it was conveyed to Romilly, for the puT|>ose of being mel^
i4>']^n'6h'. 'tet fragments of it were transported to the mint lit Paris,
i^'ilKl'Mib^ of ifttrikhiga^efvr medals frotn it. These medals aredf Ike
VIMNSbpossihibbcetnnrenee. MMn,in\^ HuLMedaUliqitedcUiRewolu-^
ti^J^of^ajife,, Ptkiis^ 1308, 8vo. has engraved the two aides of one.
Th.^.English are .fbn4 of the histories of great bells ^ and I shall give
a very brief one of the present. It was cast in 1501, under the auspices
of the first Cardinal d'Amboise, by one Jean lb Masson, or Machon ;
who, the story goes, died of joy on having succeeded in the attempt,
and was bnried at the end of the nave under a small tomb^ with a
bdl sculptured upon it. The following were the verses upon his
tomb, before the Revolution had destroyed both :

Cff'deiMs grist Jehan le Mack^n,

De ChMTtres, homme de/achon,
t .,, , Z/e^t^//W»^ Georgjbs d'AMBOiSE,

^ Qui trente^ix mille livre poise.

Mil cinq cens un,Jour d*aoust deuwiesme.

Puis maurust le vingt et uniesme.
iilus unfortunately-sensitive artist never lived to hear the sound of the
bell which he had manufoctured 3 for it was not rung until the 1 6th of
February, 1509, by sixteen men. See Pommeraye, p. 50. 1686, folio,
llie following was the quatrain, in Gothic letters, which was cut upon
tiiebyi'its^lf!

j(e 0u(0 noirimee ^e0rae0 toBofce,

^ ipsA iitn tat pAftiidf
a^uatante milTe e tsoutieta#

ROUEN. 69

the bell and the tower, by the uncle and minister
d'Amboisr. How the tone goes to one's heart!
How the nave and the choir reverberate its echoes !
*Ti8 delusion all; a mere cheat of the imagination.
But know, my dear friend, that there was once a bell,
(and the largest in Europe, save one) which used to
send forth its sound, for three successive centuries, from
the said tower. This bell was broken about thirty years
ago, and was destroyed in the ravages of the inunedi-
atdy succeeding years.* The south-west tower remains
and the upper part of the central tower, with the whcie
of the lofty wooden spire : — the fruits of the liberality
of the excellent men of whom such honourable mention
has been made. Considering that this spire is very lofty,
and composed of wood, it is surprising that it has not

Below these were sixteen hexameter and pentameter verses. The dia-
meter of the beU was nearly eleven feet English. The enormous size of
the clapper (weighing 1838 lbs.) is said to have been the cause of the
original fracture. The knob of this clapper^ yet in existence at the
door of a blacksmith of Deville^ a village near Bouen^ is seventeen inches
thidc. It follows that this bell^ although smaller than that at Mosoow>
was the laigest in the world which was placed in a tower and sounded.

It may be worth further remarking^ that this tower goes by the name
of the Butter Tower. In other words, the Pope permitted the town's-
fblk and country people, who had contributed by liberal donations to its
re-edificatu>n^ to sell butter and milk in the market-place during Lent.

* The choir was formerly separated from the surrounding ch^[)ek«
or rather from the space between it and the chapeb, by a superb brass
grating, fiill of the most beautiful arabesque ornaments — another testi-
mony ^of the magnificent spirit of the Cardinal and Prime Minister of
Louis XII. : whose anns^ as weU as the figure of his patron^ St. Geoige,

were seen in the centre of every compartment The Revolution

has not left a vestige behind !

ROUEN.

been destroyed by tempest j or accident from lightning.*
The taste of it is rather capricious than beautiful.

But I have not yet done with the monuments, or
rather have only commenced the account of them.
Examine yonder recumbent figure, to the left of the
altar, opposite the splendid monument upon which I
have just been dilating. It is lying upon its back, with
a ghastly expression of countenance, representing the
moment when the last breath has escaped from the
body. It is the figure of the Grand Seneschal dk
BfLEzk,^ — Governor of Rouen, and husband of the
celebrated Diane de Poictiers — that thus claims our
attention. This figure is quite naked, lying upon its
back, with the right hand placed upon the stomach,
but in an action which indicates life — and therefore is in
bad taste, as far as truth is concerned ; for the head being

* It has, however, imdeigone great changes and reparations. This
central tower, with the superincumbent spire^ disphiys the architecture
of the xiiith, xivth, and xvth centuries. From bottom to top it is four
hundred and thirty English feet in height. The cock is fixed upon a
slender base of only six inches yet it measures three feet and a half in
length. It is supposed to be precisely parallel with the top of Mont St.
Catharine. Let me add, that the whole length of the cathedral is about
four hundred and forty feet and the transept about one huadfed and
seventy-five, English measure. The height of the nave is about ninety^
and of the lantern one hundred and sixty-eight feetj English. The
length of the nave is two hundred and twenty-eight feet.

t the Grand Sbnischal Db Brsz£'.] He died in IhSl. Both
the ancient and yet existing inscriptions are inserted by Gilbert,
from Pommeraye and Farin, and formeriy there was seen^ in the
middle of the moniunent^ the figure of the Seneschal halnted aa a
Count, with all the msignia of his dignity. But this did not outlive
the Revolution.

BOUEN.

fidlen back,, much shrunken, and with a ghastly ex-
pression of countenance — vindicating that sonie , time
has elapsed since it breathed its last — the j^nd
conld not rest in this position. The cenotaph i£i of
black marble, disfigured by the names of idle visi-
tors who choose to leave such impertinent memprijals
behind! The famous Goujon is supposed to be the
sculptor of the figure, which is painfully clever, but it
strikes me as being too small. At any rate, the arms
and body seem to be too strong and fleshy for the
shrunken and death-stricken expression of the counte-
nance. Above the Seneschal, thus prostrate and life-
less, there is another and a very clever representation
of him on a smaller scale; as the following copy (sup-
plied from an etcliing by an ingenious female) evi-
dently proves.

ROUEN.

On each side of this figure (which has. not escaped
serious injury) are two females in white ^marble ; one
representing the Virgin, and the other Diana op
PoicTiERS :* they are little more than half the size of

* Diana of Poictibss.] — ^Again mention made of this extraor-
dinary woman! ? (See tlie Bibliographical Decameron, yoI. ii. p. 486j
&c.) The other figure^ with a cluld in its arms, supposed to be
the ViBOiN, is by some with more propriety thought to be the
nurse of the Seneschal. She is in the act of giving nourishment
to a child, and the child is considered to be no less a personage
than the Seneschal himself. In Ponmieraye's time (about the
year 1660) there used to be a number of votive gifts " presented by
the piety of the faithful.*' These have been all stolen. Besides the
two figures of the Virgin or Nurse^ond Diana, there are, by the side of
the equestrian statue, female figures representing the four virtues
Prudence, Glory, Victory, and Faith. To her honour it must be
mentioned, that Diana Was exceedingly liberal in her presents to the
Cathedral. I regretted that I had not an opportunity of visiting even
the scite only of the Chateau d^Anct, the residence of tliat extraordi-
nary woman— especially as it was near Dreux, in the neighbourhood of
Rouen — but I was deterred by the assurance that not a vestige of it re-
mained ; the whole having been broken up and appropriated during
the revolution. Gilbert quotes the verses upon this castle by Voltaire,
in his Henriade,

U voit Ics murs d^Anct, l)&tis aux bords de PElurc ;

Lui-mtoe en ordoima la superbc structure.

and refers to the Anecdote*, Sfc. des Reines et Regentes de France,
1776, vol. iv. p. 456.

Brantome may be advantageously consulted 3 as will be acknow--
ledgedon reading the smart and lively account of Diana in the Vlllth.
chapter of the 1st volume of [Sir Nathaniel] WraxalVs Memoir* of the
Kings of France; 1777, 8vo. an amusing, and now uncommon perform-
ance. In Zeiller'9 Topography of Gaul, forming three volumes out of the
sixteen in folio, of his views of the principal towns in Europe, 1650,
&c., there is a bird's eye view of the Chateau d*An£t, from which it
appears to have been, even at that time, in every respect magnificent

ROUEN.

life. The whole is in the very best style of the sculp-
ture of the time of Francis I. These precious speci-

and complete. A kind of heavy portal entrance, in the middle^ (like that
wbkih may be now seen at the late Colonel Seijeantson*s mansion,
near Cuckfield^ in Sussex,) conducted you into a mansion containing
three sides of a sort of college quadrangle — the ends, upon entering,
haTing round towers, -of a castellated structure. Immediately behind
the house was a sumptuous garden, laid out in formal flower beds^
and flanked, apparently, by offices and garden houses. Two foun-
tains played in the middle. Behind the garden, again, there was a
laige smooth meadow or lawn, with a piece of water in the middle —
the whole surrounded by trees. On each side of the house, was a
laige court, surroimded with offices for servants. In the centre of
each court a laige fountain played having a stag in the centre of one,
and a statue of Diana in that of the other. To the right of the ri^t
hand court, appears what may be called stables — or the menagerie
of Diana : and behind this, was a thick wood or forest. Upon a hill, to
the left of the meadow behind the garden, was a church and a cru-
cifix by the side of it. Everything wears the aspect of a royal resi-
dence. Sir N. Wraxall observes that it was respectable even when he
saw it in 1774.

It must be admitted that Diana, when she caused the verses

Indimka tibi quondam et fidmima cm^tw
Vt fuit in thaiamo, sic erii in tumulo.

to be engraved upon the tomb of the Seneschal, might well have
moved the bile'* of the pious Benedictine Ponuneraye, and have ex-
cited the taunting of Ducarel, when they thought upon her subse-
quent connexion, in the character of mistress, with Henry the Second
of France. Henry however endeavoured to compensate for his indis-
cretions by the pomp and splendor of his processions. Rouen, so cele-
brated of old for the entries of Kings and Nobles, seems to have been
in a perfect blaze of splendor upon that of the Lover of Diana — qui
fut plip magniflque que toutes ceUes qu*on avoit vu jusqu'alors see
Farini Bist. de la VtUe de Aouen, vol. i.p. 191, where there is a sin-
gularly minute and g^y account of all the orders and d^rees ^ citi-
zens— (with their gorgeous accoutrements of white plumes, velvet

ROUEN.

mens of art^ as well as several other onular remainB,
were carried away during the revolution, to a place of

hatSj rich brocades^ and curiously wrought taffetas) of wbom the peo-
cessions were composed. It must have been a perfectly druralie
sight, upon the largest possible scale. It was from reqpect to the
'character or the memory of Diana, that so many plaister-represenla-
tions of her were erected on the exteriors of buildings : espedalfy of
those within small squares or quadrangles. In wandering about
Roueuj I stumbled upon sereralold mansions of this kind.

May I be forgiven for an extension of this note}— already peiluipf
somewhat unconscionably long. Ds Thou, who was a little boy^
about six years of age, when he was present at the tilting matdi be-
tween Henry II. and Mongomery (so fatal to the former,*) seems to
have been unusually enflamed against Diana : and certainly he lived
near enough to the time in which she ruled her royal lover, to gather
evidence which would necessarily escape a later historian. He cbUb
her a woman of a proud and weak understanding^*' adding, that " it
was thought she ruled Henry by means of philtres and charms, and
that she preserved her imbounded influence over him, till the dose of
his life. All things (continues he) were ruled by her authority; and
Montmorenci himself submitted to the veriest acts of meanness to in*
gratiate himself with her-—'' pessimo exemplo summi imperii ad im-
potentis foemins libidinem prostituti." A little onward he says that

• Je vis bksser le Roi Henry 11. par Mongommery. La Reine fit
d^molu* les Toumellei pour ce fiut : lieu unsi appell6, k cause d'un vieuz
Chateau, oA 11 y avoit beaucoup de toumelles." See the Thuana, p. 199:
attached to De Thou's Hut. iui temp. De Thou treats this duel Qn whkh dtt
stomp of Mongomery's lance penetrated the eye and fractured the slodl
of Henry) much too seriously. A various reading has it — " regem, in gr».
garii militis modum, dignitatis 8U» oblitum, inter ludos jocosque periisie.''
But surely it was only the indulgence of a high chivalrous feeling, conunon to
that age — and which had been in some sort practised by Henry's own fiuther
with our Henry VIII. Besides, it must be remembered that Mongomeiy,
the ablest champion of the lance in Christendom, was compelled unwiUini^y
to fi^. De Thou says that Henry's death was predicted by Luca Guaricos,
a madiematidaa and conjuror. See his History j voL L p. 768-8.

BOUEN.

jsafttjFi Ite choir it spacions^ and well adapted to ite
^grarpoaeB ; but who does not grieve to see the Arch*
"bishop's stall, once the most curious and costly, of the
4jtothi0 order, and executed at the end of the xvth cen-
^tnrf, transformed into a stately common-place canopy,
supported by columns of chestnut-wood carved in the
Grecian style ? The Library, which used to terminate
the. north transept, is — not gone — ^but transferred.. A
fimciful stair-case, with an appropriate inscription,*

the King effus^ Annam diligebat" — and that Diana was equally
mistress of the royal stud and palace.'* Hisi, Sui Temparu : edU.
BHdtkjf, vol. i. p. 108-9. At p. 76J he thus describes her downfiiU:
.... Deserted in her utmost need

By those her former bounty fed ! ... .
" Valbntina [she was the DucnEssE be Valentinois] ignominiose
aula esigitur^ f^ia gsiza oc gemmis ingentis pretii, quas ilia penes se
habebat, non sine exprobratione repetitis : quod insigne fluxae auli-
corum fidd testimonium fuit. Nam ex iis omnibus^ quosj dum remm
potiretor, multos sed fere indignos ad honores evexerat, nemo unus
repertuSj qui jacentis et a suis relicts fortunam sublevaret, praevalente
adverstis beneficia privata odio publico." vol. i. 767.

* vitk-an appropriate inscription.] The inscription is this :
Si quern sancta tenet meditandi in lege voluntas.
Hie poterit residens, sacris intendere libris.
Pommeraye has rather an interesting gossipping chapter [Chap,
xxii.] "De la Biblioth^ue de la Cathedrale:** p. 163: to which
FsAMfOis DB Uarlay^ about the year 1630^ was one of the most
omniftcent benefactors. Ducarel thus notices this library, as it
appwed in his lime. The Library belonging to the cathedral is
It oable gaUAryvone hundred feet in length by twenty feet in breadth ;
bol-lMUk not a sufficient quantity of light. It is furnished with a
gvest' number of printed books, and some indifferent pictures of its
benefactors. Free access is allowed to all persons desirous of study-
ing there, from eight of the dock in the morning till twelve, and
from two till five in the afternoon, of every day in the week except
Sundays and holidays p. 23.

VOL. I. E

ROUEN.

yet attest that it was formerly an appendage to that
part of the edifice.

Before I quit the subject of the cathedral, I must
not fail to tell you something relating to the rites
perfonned therein. Let us quit therefore the dead for
the living. Of course we saw here, a repetition of
the ceremonies observed at Dieppe ; but previously to
the feast of the Ascension* we were also present at

* feast of the Ascension.'] On this day there was formerly a very
singular ceremony observed — which has now gone to decay. At
least none such took place during my stay— although the prisons
did not want even capital criminals. It may perhaps be worth while to
refer the reader to Ducarel, p. 23> for a copious account of this
ceremony.

The authors of the Gallia Christiana, vol. xi. col. 3^ &c. notice the
privilege, enjoyed by the Chapter, of rescuing one condemned male-
factor {roxa decapitation, upon the feast of the Ascension 3 and at
col. 12 it is again somewhat more particularly mentioned. Speaking
of the victory gained by the Saint over the Devil — and especially of
the " Draconis ingentis simulacrum, quasi imago idololatrise pros-
trat«" — they take care to warn us, in a note, that the Devil, or
the Dragon of St. Romanus was " not a real dragon,** but only a
symbol of idolatry — like those dragons attached to the figures of
St. Marcellus and St. Margaret.

Evelyn, who visited the cathedral of Rouen in 1644, says that the
quire had behind it a create dragon paynted on the wall 5 which
they said had don much harme to the inhabitants till vanquished by
St, Romain, their archbishop 3 for which there is an annual proces-
sion." Life and Writings of John Evelyn ; vol. i. p. 56, edit. 1818.
No traces of this precious piece of fresco painting now remain. Indeed
I do not find it even noticed by Pommeraye, who published upon the
cathedral about forty years afterwards.

St. Romain, or Romanus, was the first Archbishop of Rouen. In the
Thesauftu Novus Anecdotorum of Martene and Durand, vol. iii. coL
1653, &c. there is a metrical life of this archiepiscopal Saint.

ROUEN.

the confirmation of three hundred boys and three
hundred girls, each very neatly and appropriately
dressed^ in a sort of sabbath attire, and each holding a
lighted wax taper in the hand. The girls were dressed
in white, with white veils ; and the rich lent veils to
those who had not the means of purchasing them. The
cathedral^ especially about the choir, was crowded to
excess. I hired a chair, stood up, and gazed as ear-
nestly as the rest. The interest excited among the
parents^ and especially the mothers, was very striking.

Voil^ la petite — qu'elle a Fair charmant !— le petit
ange !**.... A stir is made . . . they rise . . . and approach,
in the most measured order, the rails of the choir . . .
There they deposit their tapers. The priests, very
numerous, extinguish them as dexterously as they can ;
and the whole cathedral is perfumed with the mixed
scent of the wax and frankincense. The boys, on ap-
proaching the altar, and giving up their tapers, kneel
down ; then shut their eyes, open their mouths ; and
the priests deposit the consecrated wafer upon their
tongues. The procession now took a different direc-
tion. They all went into the nave, where a sermon
was preached to the young people, expressly upon
the occasion, by a Monsieur Quillebeuf, a canon of
the cathedral, and a preacher of considerable popu-
larity. He had one of the most meagre and forbidding
physiognomies I ever beheld, and his beard was black
and unshaven. But he preached well ; fluently, and
even eloquently: making a very singular, but not
ungraceful, use of his left arm — and displaying at times
rather a happy fiimiliarity of manner, wholly exempt
from vulgarity, and well suited to the capacities and

ROUEN.

feelings of his youthful audience. His subject ww
" belief in Christ Jesus on which he gave very excels
lent proofs and evidences. His voice was thin^ but
clear^ and distinctly heard;

On the Feast of the Ascension, the Archbishop offi«
ciated. He is the brother of Cambac^r6s^ the seccmd
Consul of France when Bonaparte was the first ; and
he is said to have once brandished the dagger as graces
fully as he now does the crosier. However this may he,
the Archbishop is, upon the whole, rather popular^
yet not with his clergy : by some of whom he is called
cunning and worldly, and by others ignorant and
selfish. The laity will have it that he is too shrewd
for his brethren." He is a very portly gentleman, above
the mean height ; and the Abbd T***, with whom
I walked to the ceremony, did not scruple to call him

une grosse machine de chair." His countenance is
full, but of a benign expression ; and he has a sort
of gentlemanly air with him. I was opposite to him
during the service. He sat in his modernised stall,
before described ; and had two attendants, full*
dressed, with bag-wigs and swords. His squaro
cardinaFs cap was placed upon the red cushion before
him. During the service he seemed to enjoy his fre-
quent pinch of snuff, but was not free from the odious
custom of spitting — even over the sides of his stall. I
had however the satisfaction of witnessing about
his person the only clean pair of bands and white
pocket-handkerchief, which I had then seen in France.
The service was long, and wearisomely ceremonial:
but I could not disguise my indignation on seeing the
canons, in pairs, or alone, as they passed the stall to

ROUEN.

and from tbe high altar, make low obdisances, almost
amonnting to prostrations, before the Archbishop ; of
which the latter took as little notice as the Great Tnrk
wonld of those of his Muftis. This adulation to man,
ia a house of God, is most repulsive to honest feelings.
Tbe Archbishop lives in a retired manner, within an
(dd and spacious palace, hard by the cathedral, into
,jHiicfaL he has a private entrance ; and is said to be
Af- of letting the English visit his residence.* The
leveaues of the archbishopric are yet very considerable;
biit they are supposed to have once netted little short
£30,000. sterling.-^

And now, my djear Friend, if you are not tired with
jthis. detour of the Cathedral, suppose we take a
{Homenade to the next most important ecclesiastical
edifice in the city of Rouen. What say you therefore
to a stroll to the Abbey of St. Oubn ?| Willingly,**

. * He died within eight months after the ceremony above witnessed^
io ]ua-6Sd year.

. t In the year 1740> tbe diocese of Rouen comprdiended thirty
'inml deaneries, thirty-four abbeys^ twelve monasteries, and at least
finty ether ccwgregations or societies-— of both sexes. To this, add
one thousand four hundred and thirty parishes, besides chapels and
sidMdiary establishments. In the whole, one thousand seven hun-
dred places of worship. OalUa Christiana 3 vol. xi. edit. 1759.
' t ^ Abbet of St. Oubn.] The first sixty pag^es of the Neuttria
■Pia are devoted to an account of this abbey. It wUl answer all rea-
dable purpose, if, from these minute and ponderous details, it be
mdj observed that there was probably an ecclesiastical building, on
the present scite of St. Ouen, erected about the year 540 during the
4dgn of Clothaire I. as Pope Gregory I. is supposed to have granted
.some privileges to the monks of the said church or abbejF— first dedi-
iMted to St. Peter, about the year 595. However, the piety of St.

ROUEN.

methinks I hear you reply. — ^To the abbey therrfore
let us go. In other words, you must listen patiently to
my description of this enchanting building.

AuDOEN or St. Ouen, together with his attachment to this fovowile
spot^ soon eclipsed all recollections of previous devotional ardour,
among the monks and abbots. The second chapter of the Neustria
Pia affords abundant confirmation of this remark ; and thenceforward,
St. Ouen^ having been made Archbishop of Rouen, and dying in 638
(not in 6S9, as Ducarel intimates), the abbey was to be designated hj
his own name. Consult too the Gallia Christiana, vol. xi. col. 19,
&c. Ducarel says, that " St. Ouen dying at Clichy, his body waB
brought to Rouen^ and deposited in a tomb which he had prepared
for himself during his life-time, within the church of St. Peter, now
the abbey church of St. Ouen that three years after his inter-
ment, his remains were, by his successor Ausbert, inclosed in a shrine
of silver, and placed near the high altar :** and that, in 848 they
were removed to Paris, and in 918 brought back to this abbey,
where they remain|ed till they were burnt by the Calvinists in 1562."
p. 25 5 note.

This is erroneous. The shrine might have been carried away in
842, when the whole abbey was utterly destroyed by the incur-
sions and ravages of the Normans. Towards the commencement
of the following century, Rollo and other Norman chieftains
were converted to Christianity— when also, the shrine might have
been restored : but about the year 1050 the abbey was destroyed by
fire ; and is supposed to have been rebuilt by Richard I. and the
Empress Maud, in the following century. However, in the year 1248
it suffered a second general destruction by Jire — Qui combussit eccle-
sias S. Laurentij et S. Gildardi, et totam abbatiam S. Audobni.
Tantum enim inualuit impetus ignis, vt omnia aedificia breui con-
sumpserit, campanasque liquefecerit, et abbatem cum monachis
exind^ fugere compulerit." It is true, the monks carried away some

ornaments, chalices, deeds, writings, and reliquesj" but 1 appre-
hend the shrine of the Founder was rather too weighty for transporta-
Uon. Seethe iV^et<^<rtaPta;p.31. The Hugonots of 1562 have enough
to answer for, without the additional act of sacrilege in destroying the

ROUEN.

Leaving the Cathedral, you go along the Rue des
CarmeSy and pass a beautifully sculptured fountain (of
the early time of Francis I.) which stands at the comer
of a street, to the right ; and which, from its central
flKtoation, is visited the live^long day for the sake of
Its limpid waters. Push on a little further; then,
turning to the rights you get into a sort of square,
and observe the Abbey^— or rather the west-front of it,
fidl in face of you. You gaze, and are first struck
with its matchless window : call it rose, or marygold,
as you please. I think, for delicacy and richness of
ornament, tliis window is perfectly unrivalled. There
is a play of line in the mullions, which, considering
their siz^ and strength, may be pronounced quite a
master-piece of art. You approach, regretting the neg-
lected state of the lateral towers, and enter, through

ahiine of St. Ouen. It was after this Jire, towards the end of the
znith^ or rather about the beginning of the xivth century, that
the abbey, in its present form, was begun to be erected by the cele-
brated Jkan Mabdaboent — and the building was continued by the
ten successiye abbois. But the Abbots Bohier and Cibo, in the xvth
century, put the finishing strokes to it, as it now appears. > though yet
imperfect. Consult Pommeraye's Histoire de VAhhaye Royale de St.
(hmde Rouen, 1662, folio : especially the xxi-iid chapters : p. 188.
Consult also Ducarel 5 p. 26. " La seconde singularity c'est I'^difice de
Vig^se et maisons de TAbbaye de St. Ouen, comprins les plaisants
iaidins et ToUier de toutes sortes d'oyseaux : oti y a aussi vne fontaine
de marbre haute esleuee auecques diners tuyaux d Vn plaisant et singu-
lier artifice : et je puis a3seurer que le nef de ce temple est la plus
ample et mieux vitree qui soit en ce royaume/* Such is the pithy but
doquent little passage of Bourgueville, relating to this abbey, in his
Reekerches et Antiquitds de Caen; 1588, 8vo. p. 39, from a personal
su^ey of it towards the middle of the xvith centory.

ROUEN-

tbe large and completely-opened centre doors^ flie
nave of the Abbey. It was towards sun-set when We
made our first entrance. The evening was beautiful ;
and tbe variegated tints of sun-beam, admitted through
the stained glass of the window, just noticed, weite
perfectly enchanting. The window itself, as you look
upwards, or rather as you fix your eye upon the centra
of it, firom the remote end of the Abbey, or the LaAf$
Chapel^ was a perfect blaze of dazzling light : and
nave^ choir, and side aisles, seemed magically illifr-
mined • • •

Seemed all on fire — ^within, around ;

Deep sacristy and altar's pale ;
Shone every pillar foliage-bound....

Lay of the Last Mtrntrel.

We declared instinctively that the Abbby of St.Oubn
could hardly have a rival ; — cei*tainly no superior.

A trifling circumstance here occurred to divert our
attention. In one of the remoter side chapels, feebly
visited by all this magic of light, there stood a Coit-
fessional. Within this confessional was an invisible
priest. On the outside a woman was kneeling and
confessing: just before her, upon the pavement, be-
tween the pillars of the choir and the confessional, a
poor woman, and a lad or two, had each taken a chair,
and were praying in the attitudes here exhibited by the
rapid pencil of Mr. Lewis : and I wall defy you to see
the story better told in any of the more elaborate
engra^^ngs of Picart. In the course of my corres-
pondence, you will probably be treated with another
similar exhibition or two.

ROUEN. 73

As the evening came on^ the gloom of abnost every
nde chapel and recess was rendered doubly impres-
ave by the devotion of numerous straggling suppli-
cants ; and invocations to the presiding spirit of the
place, reached the ears and touched the hearts of the
by-8tanders. The grand western entrance presents you
wiUi the most perfect view of the choir — a magical circle,
or rather oval — ^flanked by lofty and clustered pillars,
and free from the suiTounding obstruction of screens, &c.
Nothing more airy and more captivating of the kind can
1)6 imagined. The finish and delicacy of these pillars are

quite gurprising. Above, below, around — every thing, is
1

BOUEN,

in the purest style of the xi vth and xvth centuries. The
central tower is a tower of beauty as well as of strength.
Yet in regard to further details, connected ^th the
interior, it must be admitted that there is very little
more which is deserving of particular description:
except it be the gallery ^ which runs within the vralls
of the nave and choir, and which is considerably more
light and elegant than that of the cathedral. A great
deal has been said about the circular windows at the
end of the south transept, and they are undoubtedly
elegant : but compared with the one at the extremity
of the nave, they are rather to be noticed from the tale
attached to them, than from their positive beauty.
The tale, my friend, is briefly this. These windows
were finished (as well as the larger one at the west
front) about the year 1439. One of them was ex-
ecuted by the master-mason, the other by his appren-
tice ; and on being criticised by competent judges,
the performance of the latter was said to eclipse that
of the former. In consequence, the master became
jealous and revengefril, and actually poniarded ' his
apprentice. He was of course tried, condemned, and
executed ; but an existing monument to his memoiy
attests the humanity of the monks in ^ving him
christian interment.* On the whole, it is the absence

* christian interment.] — Les Religieux de Saint Ouen touches de
compassion envers ce malheureux artisan, obtinrent son coips de la
justice^ et pour reconnoissance des bons services qu*il leur avoit rendus
dans la construction de leur 6g\lse, nonobstant sa fin tragique, ne laiH-
Bbrent pas de hiy fair I'bonneur de Tinhumer dans la chapeUe de sainte
AgneSy oh sa tombe se voit encore auec cet Epitaphe :
' (^gati M. Albxandrs db Berncual, Makire de9,eey9r»de Mu9omurie,

ROUEN.

of aU obtrusive and unappropriate ornament which
^▼es to the interior of this building that lights un-
encumbered^ and faery-like effect which so peculiarly
belongs to it^ and which creates a sensation that I
never remember to have felt within any other shnilar
edifice.

Let me however put in a word for the organ. It Us
immense, and perhaps larger than that belonging to
the Cathedral. The tin pipes (like those of the organ
in the Cathedral) are of their natural colour. I paced
the pavement beneath, and think it cannot be short
of fcNTty English feet in length. Indeed^ in all the
ehurches which I have yet seen^ the organs strike me
as being of magnificent dimensions.

You should be informed however that the extreme
length of the interior, from the further end of the
Chapel of the \lrgin, to its opposite western extre-
mity, is about fi)ur hundred and fifty English feet ;
while the height, from the pavement to the roof of
the nave, or the choir, is one hundred and eight
English feet. The transepts are about one hundred and
forty feet in length.* The monuments are easily run

Off BaHUage de Rouen, et de cette Eglise, qui trhpaisa Pan de grace, 1440, le 5
Jmmer* Priez Dieu p&ur Pame de luy,

PoMMERATE : HUt de VAbhaye de St. Ouen, p. 197, 1662, folio.

At Pteiff , in a collection of prints^ relating to Nonnandy, (see page
41 ante) I saw some clever, minute engravings in Grignion*s style,
of these three rose windows : together with a geometrical plan of the
abbey. But these I think may be seen in Pommeraye, p. 1 96.

* The reader will find a description of the interior of this Abbey in
Ducarel, p. 28, as it appeared in his time. I may add, however,
that the dock, with " the figures of St. Michael and the Devil," and
the " griUes de fer,*' are now no longer in existence.

ROUEN.

over: indeed they scarcely deserve to be mentioned.
Not so the exterior of this wonderful building. I have
already told you that the west end was never com-
pleted, but what i'^ finished is worthy of its neighbour-
ing beauties. The central tower, upon the whole, is
not only the grandest tower in Rouen, but there is
nothing for its size in our own country that can com-
pete with it. It rises upwards of one hundred feet
above the roof the church ; and is supported below,
or rather within, by four magnificent cluster-pillared
bases, each about thirty-two feet in circumference-
Its area, at bottom, can hardly be less than thirty-
six feet square. The efiect, seen at a due distance, is
perfectly enchanting — owing to the fine proportions of
every thing about it, which are neither too slim nor too
massive, neither too plain nor too ornate. Turn
which way you will, from any part of the town or
boulevards, the great tower of this Abbey lifts its
magnificent head

Quantum lenta solent inter viburna cupressi.

The choir is flanked by flying buttresses, which have
a double tier of small arches, altogether " marvellous
and curious to behold." Attached to the northern
transept, was once a refectory, chapter-house, and
CLOISTER. But refectory, chapter-house, and cloisters,
are now gone ! — save a mere relic of the latter. What
could have caused their removal, think you? The van-
dalic revolution? No — for hereunto adjoining, stand
some oflSces of government; the Hotel de Fillcj
Library, &c. — and the Refectory was taken down in

ROUEN-

order that it might not impede the vieiv of a tasteless^
monotonous pile of what is called Greek or Roman
ardhiteeture — in which the said government offices
are contained! Nay, down went the very northern
porch itself, attached to the northern transept . . and
all this within thi*ee years of writing the melancholy
record of such a preconcerted, tasteless, act of demo-
lition. Where were the pencils — ^where were the pens
—of the whole corps academique" of the city of
Rouen. Pommeraye has favoured us with a view of
this refectory, &c.* and my friend M. Le Prevost
gratified me with a sight of some drawings of i1>--i-
executed at his own expense, to enrich his choice
little cabinet. It is due however to the present cor-
poration to state, that the earliest acts of devasta-
tion commenced during the revolution ; yet the grati-
tude of the survivors of that horrible scene should
rather have repaired what had been effaced, than have
demolished the whole fabric — for the petty gratification
of an architect's vanity. To compensate you, in some
measure, for this ruthless act, you may steal quietly

♦ Pommeraye has favoured us with a view of this refectory. "] — It is a
bird's-eye view, and will be found between pages 220 and 221 of his
History. It is not only a view of the refectory and cloisters^ but of the
gardens, &c. and is extremely curious. In fhicarel's time those fine
appurtenances were standing. He thus describes them. The
RsFSCTORT, Chapter House, and Cloisters, are very grand edi-
fices. In the latter, which appears to be much more ancient than the
church, I observed some old stone desks stuck to the piUars, and de-
signed to place books upon : but I did not meet with the image of any
saint, or crucifix,'* Anglo-Norman Antiquities/* 1767> folio, p. 29. See
old Boorgaeville's short description^ at page 73 ante ; where he talks
of singing birds warbling in the a4jaoent gardens.

ROUEN.

round to the pwch of the south transept^ and witness,
in that porch^ one of the most chaste, light, and lovely
specimens of Gothic architecture, which can be con*
templated. Indeed, I hardly know any thing ilike it.*
The leaves of the poplar and a&h were b^inning to
mantle the exterior ; and, seen through their green and
gay lattice work, the ti'aceries of the porch seemed to
assume a more interesting aspect. They are now
laending the upper part of the facade with new stone
of peculiar excellence'^but it does not harmonise with
the old work. They merit our thanks, however, for the
preservation of what remains of this precious pile*; j J
should remark to you that the eastern and north--
eastern sides of the abbey of St. Ouen are surrounded
by promenades and trees : so that^ occasionally, either
when walking, or sitting upon the benches, within these
gardens, you catch one of the finest views imaginable of
the abbey. Indeed, attached to the north-east side of
the north transept, there is one relic of forma* times^
rather of the castellated than of the ecclesiastical cha^
raeterf* — which strikes me as the oldest piece of build-

• hardly know any thing like i*.]— Even Dr. Ducarel became
warm— on contemplating this porch ! " The porch at the south en*
triemce into the church (says he) is much more worthy of the spectator's
attention^ being highly enriched with architectonic ornaments; parti'-
cularty two beautiful cul de lamps, which from the combination of a
variety of spiral dressings, as they hang down from the vaulted roof,
produce a very pleasing effect," p. 98.

t rather of coitellated, than of eecledastical c^aroc^er.]-^^' Adjoin-
ing to that part of the north side of the church, which is just below the
transept of the cross, I observed a very old tower, which, as the monks
assert, was part of the church built by king Ridiard I. and Maud the
Empress,** Ducabel, p. 39. I have no doubt of this being of the

ROUEN.

mgj of whatever kind, in Rouen — at least, that I have
yet seen. At this early season of the year, nrach com-
paftiy is assembled every evening in these walks : while,
in front of the abbey, or in the square fisicing the
western end, the national guard is exercised in the
day time— and troops of feir nymphs and willing
jrouths mingle in the dance on a sabbath evening,
while a platform is erected for the instrumental per-
formers, and for the exhibition of feats of legerdemain.
Yottt must not take leave of St. Ouen without bdng
told that, formerly, the French Kings used occasion-
ally to " make revel" within the Abbofs house.
Henry II, Charles IX, and Henry III, each took a fancy
t<ythis spot — but especially the famous Henri Quatre.
It is reported that this monarch sojourned her^ for four
months — and his reply to the address of the aldermen
and sheriff of Rouen is yet preserved both in MS. and
by engravings. The King having arrived at St. Ouen
(says an old MS.)* the keys of the tower were pre-
sented to him, in the pi*esence of M. de Montpensier,
the governor of the province, upon a velvet-cushion.
TTie keys wei^e .gilt. The King took them, and re-
placing them in the hands of the governor, said — " Mon
cousin, je vous ies bailie pour les rendre, qu'ils les gar-
dent;" — then, addressing the aldermen, he added,
Soyez moi bons sujets et je vous serai bon Roi, et le
meiUeur Roi que vous ayez jamais eu.*"

laUei: part of the xiith century 3 but it must be now quite impossiUe to
a[^ropriate, with exactitude^ every portion of this building.

• Consult the account given by M. Le Prevost in the Precis Ana-
lutupte des Travaux de V Academic, 4rc. de Rouen,"* for the year 1816^
p. 151^ &c.

ROUEN.

Unconscionably long as you may have found this
letter^ I shall hazard an extension of it by ^ving you a
rapid sketch of the remaining ecclesiastical edifices
which are more particularly deserving of notice. Next
to the Abbey of St. Ouen, go by all means and see the
church St. Maclou^ say your friends and your guides.
The Abb6 Turquier accompanied me thither. The
great beauties of St. Maclou are its tower and its
porch. Of the tower, little more than the lantern
remains. This is about 160 English feet in height.
Above it was a belfiry or steeple, another 110 feet in
height, constructed of wood and lead — ^but which has
been nearly destroyed for the sake of the latter arti-
cles— for sundry purposes of slaughter or resistance
during the revolution.* The exterior of the porches
are remarkable for their elaborate ornaments ; espe-
cially those in the Rue Martinville. They are highly
praised by the inhabitants, and are supposed to be

* Farin tells us that you could go firom the top of the lantern to the
cross^ or to the summit of the belfry> outside^ without a ladder : so ad-
mirable was the workmanship/* Strangers (adds he) took models
of it for the purpose of getting them engraved^ and they are sold pub-
licly at Rome." Hiit. de la rille de Rouen, 1738, 4to. vol. ii. p. 154.
There are thirteen chapels within this church ; of which however the
building cannot be traced lower than quite the beginning of the xvidi
century. The extreme length and width of the interior is about 15&
by 82 feet English. Even in Du Four^s time the population of this
parish was very great, and its cemetery (adds he) was the first and
most regular in Rouen. He gives a brief, but glowing description
of it — on va tout autour par des galeries couvertes et pav^j et,
deux de ces galeries sont decor^ de deux autels/* &c. p. 150.

Alas! time-^r the revolution --has annihilated all this. Let mt
add that M. Cotman has published a view of the stairccue in the
church of which I am speaking.

ROUEN. 81

after the models of the famous Goujon. Perhaps they
are rather enemnbered with ornament^ and want that
quiet effect^ and pure good taste^ which we see in the
porches of the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen.
However, let critics determine as they will upon this
point — they must at least unite in reprobating the
barbarous edict which doomed these delicate pieces of
sculptured art to be deluged with an over-whelming
tint of staring yellow ochre! The monuments and the
stained glass cease to be interesting after what you
have already seen. Two circumstances, connected
with this church, I shall not easily forget. The one
was, that, close to the principal door of entrance, (at
right angles with the Rue Martinville) I got intelli-
gence from a vender of old and second-hand books —
who was seated in a narrow stall, or shed, with a
cocked hat on, which almost touched each extremity
of it— of a copy of the first impression of the New
Testament printed in the French language about the
year 1478, which he had sold to a brother book-vender,
and which I purchased within five minutes after re-
ceiving the intelligence. The other circumstance, of a
very different complexion, was, that, in one of my
visits to M. Megard, (the typographical Bulmer of
Rouen) on a Sunday morning, I arrived just at the
moment when the congregation were quitting the
church. The Rue Martinville runs at right angles
with the Rue Malpalu^ which latter is on a rapid de-
scent, terminating at the quays. The human beings,
almost all females, with their broad streamers waving
in the wind" — in other words, with their white
spiral caps, in a sort of undulating motion, as they

ROUEN.

descended the streets — ^presented one of the most novel
imd amusing sights of the kind which I had ever wit^
nessed. It seemed as if half of the population ci
Rouen had uttered their orisons within St. Macloit;
Indeed, I thought there would have been no end to
the departing procession.

Of the remaining churches, I shall mention only
four: two of them chiefly remarkable for their intarior,
and two for their paramount antiquity. Of the two
former, that of St. Vincent * presents you with a nofade
oi^gan^ with a light choir profusely gilded, and (rarer ac-
companiment) in very excellent taste. But the stained
glass is the chief magnet of attraction. It is riol^
varied^ and vivid to a degree ; and, upon the whole,
is the finest specimen of this species of art in the pre«
sent ecclesiastical remains of the city. St. Fivienjf is

* that of St. Vincent J} Farin is rather brief in his account of this
church : which however he calls one of the lai^g^t and finest in
Rouen.** He coldly observes les vitres sont estim^ he might
have inserted the adverb " tr^'* before the participle. The rqparB-
tions and beautifying^ &c. took place diiefly about the year 17S0.
The church suffered dreadfully from Calvinistic wrath in the year
156^. The tower was built in 1669. It was on a fine sunny morur
ing, before break£eist^ that I visited this church } and am willing to
hope that> if the panegyric above bestowed upon the stained glass
viindows be overchaiged^ the fault may be attributed to the Sun ! — ^Yet
Gilbert countenances the eulogy.

t St. Vivien.'] In the beginning of the xiiith century^ this church,
now almost in the heart of the city, was in the suburbs. The pre-
sent structure was completed towards the end of the xvth century.
Towards the middle of the same century a bone of the arm, one
of the shoes, and a part of the sepulchre — belonging to St. Vitikh —
were carried to the cathedral church, and from thence deposited in that
called by the i;iame of the Saint.** In the year 1588 a very extraor-

ROUEN.

the second of these two former. It is a fine open
chnrch, with a large organ^ having a very curiona

Aaaiy procession of the White" Penitents*' set out from this church
to the Cathedral. In 1560 it partook of the general calamity inflicted
tiie implacable Calvinists. See Farin, toL ii. p. 162-4.
I regret that I omitted to visit the churches of St. Patrice and St.
0§dard } and more especially the latter — ^which Farin says (in his
time) boasted of the finest stained glass windows in France" — and
whidi gave rise to the saying — when speaking of wine of a fine
transparent colour^ il est de la couleur des vitres de St. Godard !**
Tliese biHliant windows are of the xvith century. The church of
St Godard is also one of the very laigest^ as well as most ancient^
in Hooen. In former days^ the rich and the powerful seemed to vie
witb each other in bestowing marks of their munificence upon it.
But it suffered perhaps more dreadfully than any other from the un-
bridled fury of the Calvinists. It may be worth noticing that Farin
sajB that the organ^ which was erected in 1640, was the work of
Wit,iiAU Lesley, a Scotchman. Vol. ii. p 132—143. Ducarel
(p. 3S) has taken his brief notice of this church from Farin, without
/MKving had the grace to acknowledge it. It should seem, from
Gilbert^ that a great quantity of old stained glass had been of late sold
to the English at Rouen. But the revolution had facilitated this traffic.

On doit (says Gilbert) un tribut de reconnoissance k ceux des ma-
giatrats et des habitans qui, par leur z^le et par leur courage, soiit
parvenus h les preserver de la destruction.** He then goes on to
observe : " La peinture sur verre, cultivee alors avec le plus grand
suecte par dliabiles artistes (dont les descendans exercent encore la
profession de vitrier k Rouen et k Paris,) ^ trouva dans la munificence
des Rauennois, un noble sujet d'encouragement, et produisit cette
multitude de magnifiques vitraux peints qui Ton admiroit autrefois
dans les ^lises, et dont un petit nombre a fDrt heureusement ^happ^s
^ la foreur revolutionnaire, aussi bien qu* k la cupidite des acquireurs

• M. M. Levieil. " On doit ^ Pierre Levieil, mort en 1772, un excellent
TVaiU HUtarique et pratique de la peinture tur verre, qui fait partie de
PEncydop^iie. Get ouvrage est rempli de savantes recherches. Gilbert,
p. 4.

VOL. I. F

ROUEN.

wooden screen in front, elaborately carved, and, as I
conceive, of the very earliest part of the sixteenth cen-
tury. I ascended the organ-loft ; and the door hap-
pening to be open, I examined this screen, (which has
luckily escaped the yellow-ochre edict) very minutely,
and was much gratified by the examination. Such
pieces of art, so situated, are of rare occurrence. For
the first time, within a parish church, I stepped upon
the pavement of the choir: walked gently forwards,
to the echo of my own footsteps, (for not a creature
was in the church) and, " with no unhallowed hand"
I would hope, ventured to open the choral or service
book, resting upon its stand. It was wide, thick, and
ponderous : upon vellum : beautifully written and well
executed in every respect, with the exception of the
illuminations — which were extremely indifferent. I
ought to tell you that the doors of the churches, abroad,
are open at all times of the day : the ancient or more
massive door, or portal, is secured from shutting ; but
a temporary, small, shabby wooden door, covered with
dirty green baize, opening and shutting upon circular
hinges, just covers the vacuum left by the absence of
the larger one.

But for the two ancient churches, above alluded to.
Of these two ancient churches, therefore, situated at

des monumens religkux qui en ont vendu une grande quantity aux
Anglois. Le8 ^lises de Saint Godard^ de Saint Patrice^ de Saint
Vivien^ et la Cathedrale^ poss^dent encore de pr^cieux morceaux de
peinture sur verre." f Descript. Hist, de Ndtre Dame de Rouen, p. 4.

f On se rappelle d'avoir vu avec intdr^t les beUes vitres de I'^lise de Saint
Cande-le-vieux, de Saint Nicolas, et de la chapelle de Saint Maur.

ROUEN.

the opposite extremities of the city, let me first take you
to that of St. Gervaisy considerably to the north of
where the Boulevards Cauchoise and Bouvreuil meet. It
was hard by this favourite spot, say the Norman histo-
rians, that the ancient Dukes of Normandy built their
country-houses : considering it as a lieu de plaisance.
Here too it was that the Conqueror came to breathe his
last— desiring to be conveyed thither, from his palace in
the city, for the benefit of the pure air. * I walked with
M. Le Provost to this curious church : having before
twice seen it. But the Crj/pt is the only thing worth
talking about, on the score of antiquity. We were both

• Ordericus Vitalis says that the dying monarch requested to be
loonveyed thither^ to avoid the noise and bustle of a populous town.
Rouen is described to be, in his time, populosa civitas.** Consult
J>uche8ne*8 HistoruB Normannor. Scrip, Antiq, p. 656. It is not
perhaps generally known that William was considered to be extremely
munificent. He was certainly fond of giving large possessions to
monastic establishments. In the archives of St. Ouen was a Carta
Willelmi Anglorum regis, pro Monasterio Floriacbnsi Anno 1067>
in which he liberally confirmed all the privileges granted to the
same monastery by his ancestors Richard and Robert. In this charter
he styles himself Anglorum rex effectus.** Consult Martene
and I>urand*s Thesaurus Novus Anecdotorum, 1717^ fol. vol. 1. col.
196, F. But in the prologue to the work, concerning the acts of
the later Kings of France, in 1110, the Conqueror is thus designated :
" Nullus rex nostrorum temporum hoc Giullelmo fiiit felicior ac
moderatior. Ejus magnanimitatem & magnificentiam nemo laudare
suffidt, quibus ille usque ad tenninos terrse super omnes sevi nostri
r^es ac principes apparuit gloriosus. Fauci posthac reges, sicut
reor, ilium imitabuntur, & ejus affluenti^ & morum eleganti^ per-
fhientur, quibus eum Deus in hac vita felixque fortuna ditavit.**
Eiusd. Op. vol. i. col. 3S7-8.

ROUEN.

struck, after descending a narrow stair-case^ with the
light which streamed from an aperture at the fiirthw
end — half covered by the " youngand lusty grass" — and
which shed a soft mellow tint upon the gloom below.
As you enter, there are two tombs of the oldest Arch-.-
bishops of Rouen — ^who lived in times remote enough
(for aught I know to the contrary) to have shaken
hands with St. Jerom. 'Hiese tombs are flat, solid,
and plain. But it is the crypt (designed by Mr. Cot-
man) upon which M. Le Prevost loves to expatiate ! —
and which strikes the eye of the antiquary. Perhs^
I might say with perfect safety that here are the un-
questionable remains of a Roman road. On quitting
this crypt, and examining the architecture of the
exterior above it, the same accomplished guide bade
us remark the extraordinary formation of the capitals
of the pillars : which, admitting some perversity of taste
in a rude, Norman, imitative artist, are decidedly
of Roman character. " Perhaps," said M. Le Prevost,
" the last efforts of Roman art previous to the relin-
quishment of the Romans." Among these capitals
there is one of the perfect Doric order; while in
another you discover the remains of two Roman
eagles. The columns are all of the same height ; and
totally unlike every thing of the kind which I have
seen or heard of. Let me tell you, however, as we
take leave of this curious old church, that William
the Conqueror died in its vicinity.

We descended the hill upon wiiich St. Gervais is
built ; and walked onward towards St Paul, situated
at the further and opposite end of the town, upon a

ROUEN.

gentle eminence, just above the banks of the Seine.
M. Le Provost was still our conductor. The day
grew gloomy, and the heavens became black with
thtmder--clouds, as we approached this small edifice.
It is certainly of remote antiquity, but I suspect it
to be completely Norman. The eastern end is full of
antiquarian curiosities. We observed a Grecian mask
as the centre ornament upon the capital of one of
the circular figures; and Mr. Lewis made a few
slight drawings of one of the grotesque heads in the
exterior, of which the hair is of an uncommon fiaishion.
We discovered the Saxon whiskers upon several of these
SBbces. Upon the whole, it is possible that parts of this
church may have been built at the latter end of the
tenth century, after the Normans had made themselves
^completely masters of this part of the kingdom ; yet
it is more probable that there is no vestige left which
claims a more ancient date than that of the end of
the eleventh century. I ought just to notice the church
of St. SeveTy^ supposed by some to be yet more
ancient : but I had no opportunity of taking a parti-
cular survey of it.

T!hus much, or rather thus little, respecting the
ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES of Roucn. They merit
indeed a volume of themselves. This city could once
boast of upwards of tbirtyi parish churches; of

• A view of it is published hy M. Cotman.

t Si. Sever."] This church is situated in the southern fauxbourgs,
by the side of the Seine, and was once siurounded by gardens, &c.
As yofu cross the bridge of boats, and go to the race-ground, you
leave it to the right : but it is not so old as St. Paul — whexe, Farin
says, the worship of Adonis was once performed !

KOUEN.

which very nearly a dozen have been recently (I
mean during the Revolution) converted into ware-
houses. It forms a curious, and yet melancholy
melange — this strange misappropriation, of what
was formerly held most sacred, to the common and
lowest purposes of civil life! You enter these ware*
houses, or oflBices of business, and see the broken
shaft, the battered capital, and half-demolished altar?
piece — the gilded or the painted frieze — in the midst
of bales of goods— casks, ropes, and bags of cotton i
while, without, the same spirit of demolition prevails
in the fractured column, and tottering arch way. Thus
time brings its changes and decays — premature as
well as natural — and the noise of the carmen and
injunctions of the clerk ai-e now heard, where formerly
there reigned a general silence, interrupted only by the
matin or evening chaunt! I deplored this sort of
sacrilegeous adaptation, to a respectable-looking old
gentleman, sitting out of doors upon a chsur, and
smoking his pipe — c'est dommage. Monsieur, qu'on
a converti T^glise ^" — He stopped me: raised bii
left hand: then took away his pipe with his right;
gave a gentle whiff, and shrugging up his shoulders,
half archly and half drily exclaimed — " Mais que vou'^
lez vous, Monsieur? — ce sont des ^v^nemens qu'on
ne pent ni pr6voir ni prevenir. Voil^ ce que c'est T
Leaving you to moralize upon this comfortable mor^
ceau of philosophy, consider me ever, &c.

LETTER VI.

HAUiES D£ COMMERCE. PLACE DE LA PUCELLE d'oR-
liEANS (JEANNE d'aRC). BASSO-RELIEVO OF THE CHAMP
Dfi DRAP d'oR. PALACE AND COURTS OF JUSTICE.

You must make up your mind to see a few more
sights in the city of Rouen, before I conduct you to
the environs, or to the summit of Mont St. Catharine.
We must visit a few more relics of antiquity, and take
a yet more familiar survey of the town, ere we strive

superas evadere ad auras.

Indeed the information to be gained well merits the
toil endured in its acquisition ; and as the labour we
delight in physics pain,'' so you must at least listen
attentively to the continuation of the Rouen Tale.
I should however notice to you, before hand, that
Goube*s * account of this city, which occupies scarcely
twenty-five pages of his third volume, is utterly un-
worthy of criticism ; and though Goube says his work
is written without literary pretension,** yet he might
have filled these twenty-five pages with better stuflF.
TTie only town in England that can give you any
notion of Rouen, is Chester; although the similitude
holds only in some few particulars. I must, in the first
place then, make especial mention of the Halles db
Commerce. The marhetsheve are numerous and abun-

* See p. 12, ante.

ROUEN.

dant, and are of all kinds. Cloth^ cotton^ lace^ linen^
fish^ fruity vegetables, meat, corn, and wine ; these for
the exterior and interior of the body. Cattle, wood,
iron, earthen- ware, seeds, and implements of agricul-
ture; these for the supply of other necessities considered
equally important. Each market has its appropriate
scite. For picturesque effect, you must visit the
Ftetix Marchd, for vegetables and fish ; which is kept
in an open space, once filled by the servants and troops
of the old Dukes of Normandy, having the ancient
ducal palace in front. This is the fountain head
whence the minor markets are supplied. Every stall
has a large old tattered sort of umbrella spread above
it, to ward ofi^ the rain or rays of heat ; and, seen
from some points of view, the effect of all this, with
the ever-restless motion of the tongues and feet of the
vendors, united to their strange attire, is exceedingly
singular and interesting. Mr. Lewis's occupation
would not admit of his making a satisfactory sketch of
it, or I am not certain whether any efibrt of his pencil
could have more gratified the tastes of our country^
men. These huge and broad spreading umbrellas,
with their accompaniments of live and dead stock,
taken in a somewhat fore-shortened manner, would
produce a truly spirited picture for the burin of Mitan.

Leaving the old market place, you pass on to the
March^ Neuf^ where fruits, eggs, and butter are chiefly
sold. At this season of the year there is necessarUy
little or no fruit, but I could have filled one coat
pocket with eggs (a dangerous experiment!) for less
than half a franc. These market places are at the
southern extremity of the town, near the quays. But

ROUEN.

while upon the subject of bujdng and selling, I must
take you with me to the Halles of Rouen ; in other
words, to the large public buildings now exclusively
appropriated to the vendition of cloths, linen, and the
varied etceteras of mercery. These are at once
qiacious and interesting in a high degree. They form
the divisions of the open spaces, or squares, where
the markets just mentioned are held ; and were for-
merly the appurtenances of the palaces and chateaux
of the old Dukes of Normandy : the latter of which
are now wholly demolished. You must rise betimes
on a Friday morning, to witness a sight of which
you can have no conception in England : unless it be
at a similar scene in Leeds. By six o'clock the busy
world is in motion within these halls. Then com-
mences the incessant and inconceivable vocifera-
tion of buying and selling. The whole scene is
alive, and carried on in several vast, stone-arched
rooms, supported by a row of pillars in the cen-
tre. Of these halls, the largest is about three
hundred and twenty English feet in length, by fifty-
five in width. The centre, in each division, con-
tains tables and counters for the display of cloth,
cotton, stuff, and linen of all descriptions. The dis-
play of divers colours — the commendations bestowed
by the seller, and the reluctant assent of the pur-
chaser— the animated eye of the former, and the cal-
culating brow of the latter — the removal of one set
of wares, and the bringing on of another — in short,
the never-ceasing succession of sounds and sights
astonishes the gravity of an Englishman ; whose asto-
nishment is yet heightened by the extraordinary good

ROUEN.

humour which every where prevails. The laugh, the
joke^ the Equivoque, and reply^ were worth being re-
corded in pointed metre ; — and what metre but thlit of
Dan Crabbe could possibly render it justice ? By nine
of the clock all is hushed, The sale is over : the goods
are cleared ; and both buyers and sellers have quitted
the scene.

La Halle au Bled, or the Com Market, probably
presents a more interesting scene. This hall is close to
the preceding, and is about three hundred and twenty
English feet in length, and proportionably broad and
Icrfty. The market days are Monday, Wednesday, and
Friday; but more especially the latter day. Indeed
if you cast a leisurely and reflecting survey upon these
several markets — ^if you consider the bustle and barter
that is going on, and that every thing indicates the
renovation of prosperity after the late afflicting events
of the revolution — if you consider too (as the Rauen-^
mis ought, and I hope do, consider !) how good the
God of harvest" has been to them in the fecundity of
their pasture and arable soil ! — ^when you gaze, I say,
with a truly philosophical feeling upon all this ani-
mated scene, here so inadequately described, you can-
not but instinctively acknowledge how preferable are
the quiet pursuits of peace to the tumultuous occu-
pations of war — how infinitely more instructive are the
arts of agriculture than those of arms — and what in-
calculable moral benefits result from the cultivation of
industrious habits, compared with all the glories to
be acquired from conquest, from ambition, and from
despotism !

O Fortunatos nimium sua si bona ndrint ! —

ROUEN.

From still, let me conduct you to active life. In
other words, let us hasten to take a peep at the Horse
and Cattle Market. These are subjects of consideration,
to which you, my dear friend, who equally love to
be borne upon a fiery steed, and to see your cows
grazing in your meadows, or grouped upon canvas,
by a Cuyp or a Vandevelde, can never be indifferent.
On the other hand, consider my inexperience — ^my total
ignorance of the meaning of words in Tattersal's Dic-
tionary ; though, for dead stock, I will not allow your
admiration of Cuyp, or of Vandevelde, to exceed my own.
In few words then, be it known that the Horse and
Cattle Market is carried on in the very opposite part
of the town ; that is, towards the northern Boulevards.
The horses are generally entire : and indeed you have
scarcely any thing in England which exceeds the Nar^
man horsey properly so understood. This animal
unites the hardiness of the mule with the strength of
his own particular species. He is also docile, and
well trained; and a Norman, from pure affection,
thinks he can never put enough harness upon his
back. I have seen the face and shoul(fers of a cart-
horse quite buried beneath a profusion and weight of
collar; and have beheld a farmer's horse, led out
to the plough, with trappings as gorgeous and strik-»
ing as those of a General's charger brought forward for
a review. The carts and vehicles are usually balanced
in the centre upon two wheels, which diminishes much
of the pressure upon the horse. Yet the caps of the
wheels are frightfully long, and inconveniently pro-
jecting : while the eternally loud cracking of the whip
is most repulsive to nervous ears. On one of these

BOUEN.

market days^ my son, more learned in the knowl^lge
of horses than his parent, asked the price of an en-
tire, fine animal; but the vender would hear of nothing
under forty louis — ^which I thought " a good round
sum.'' In the market these animals stand pretty close
to each other for sale; and are led off, for shew,
amidst boys, girls, and women, who contrive very dex-
terously to get out of the way of their active hoofis.
The French seem to have an instinctive method of doing
that, which, with ourselves, demands forethought and
deliberation.

Of the Streets, in this extraordinary city, that of the
Great Clock — (Rue de la Grosse HorlogeJ which runs
in a straight line from the western front of the Cathe-
dral, at right angles with the Rue des Carmes, is
probably the most important, ancient, and interesting.
When we were conveyed, on our entrance (in the
cabriolet of the Diligence,) beneath the arch to the
upper part of which this old fashioned clock is
attached, we were lost in admiration at the singur
larity of the scene. The inhabitants saw, and enjoyed,
our astonishment. There is a fountain beneath, or
rather on one side of this arch ; over which is sculp^
tured a motley group of insipid figures, of the latter
time of Louis XIV. The old tower near this clock merits
a leisurely survey: as do also some old houses, to
the right, on looking at it. It was within this old
tower * that a bell was formerly tolled, at nine o'clock

• C'est, comme on Ta dit, dans cette Tour qu*est plac^ la cloche
dite d*ai^nt> ou BefiProy^ que Ton sonne dans les c^r^monies pub-
liques, pour les diverses Elections, les moments de calamity, teU
que les incendies^ etc. elle se fiut remarquer par un timbre tr^s-

ROUEN.

each evenings to warn the inhabitants abroad to retire
irithin the walls of the city; but not for the purpose of
extinguishing their fires — no curfew — as in times of
old with us. As to the clocks it is remarkable rather
for its antiquity than for the regularity of its move-
ments. It is heavy and clumsy, yet not wanting a
certain old feshioned richness of ornament. No in-
habitant, living on either side of it, whether stationary^
or moving beneath it, ever now thinks of lifting his eyes
towards this object — which formerly perhaps com-
manded the admiration of the young and the respect of
the old. Ancient usages are speedily forgotten ; and
what we are in the habit of contemplating when young,
ceases to attract attention in maturer years.

Turning to the left, in this street, and going down
a sharp descent, we observe a stand of hackney
coaches in a small square, called La Place de la Pucelle:
that is, the place where the famous Jbannb d'ARc*

c!air et sonore qui produit une sensation extraordinaire. On la sonne
tons les soirs k neuf-heures : c*est que Ton nomme k Rouen la retraite,
paice que dans les temps de guerre, ou lorsque les portes de la yiUe se
fomaient, elle averdssait les habitants hors de la ville d'y rentrer,
an risque de passer la nuit dans les fauboui^. Sa destination a iii
aussi d*avertir les soldats de la gamison de Theure de la retraite/'
Itim&€ure, p. 126.

* the famous Jranne d*Abc.] Goube, in the second volume of
his Bistwre du Duchd de Narmandie, has devoted several spiritedly
written pages to an account of the trial and execution of this heroine.
Her history is pretty well known to the English — from earliest youth.
Goube says that her mode of death had been completely prejudged —
for that^ previously to the sentence being passed, they b^an to erect
" a scaffold of plaister, so raised, that the flames could not at first

ROUEN.

was imprisoned^ and afterwards burnt. What sensa-
tions possess one as we gaze upon each surrounding

reach her — and she was in consequence consumed by a slow fire :
her tortures being long and horrible.*' Hume has been rather too
brief : but he judiciously observes that the conduct of the Duke of
Bedford was equally barbarous and dishonourable.** Indeed it
were difficult to pronounce which is entitled to the greatest abhor-
reijice — the imbecility of Charles VII. the baseness of John of
Luxembourg, or the treachery of the Regent Bedford ? I hope this
latter renowned character employed and paid the artists for his
Beuuous Missal and Breviary — as an act of penance and atone-
ment for his absolute wickedness towards the Maid of Orleans.

It seems pretty clear that Monstrelet, the celebrated historian, and
contemporary with Joan, was not well disposed towards her. She was
taken prisoner in a sortie from Compeigne, about five o'clock in the
afternoon, upon the eve of the day of Ascension, and " was drag-
ged from her horse (says that chronicler) by an archer, near to
whom was [Lyonnel] the hastarde de Vendome ; and to him she sur-
rendered, and pledged her foith. He lost no time in carrying her
to Maligny, and putting her under a secure guard,** &c. " The Duke
of Burgundy went to the lodgings where she was confined, and
spake some words to her ; but what they were (continues Monstrelet)
I do not now recollect, although I was present [dolt !] The Duke
and the army returned to their quarters, leaving the Msdd under the
guard of Sir John Luxembourg ; who shortly after sent her, under a
strong escort, to the castle of Beaulieu, and thence to that of Beau-
Tevoir, where she remained, as you shall hear, a prisoner a long
time.'* (Johnes*s Monstrelet, vol. ii. p. 380, folio impression. Edit.
Sauvage, 1572. vol. ii. fol. 57-8.) So that it should seem Sir John
did not immediately dispose of his prisoner : Monstrelet has confined
his account of the incarceration and death of the Maid, to the Lettres
Missives of the Regent Bedford : in which, among her supposed
crimes, formal mention is made of her wearing man*s apparel for
two whole years — chose d Dieu abhominabU P EUe fut men^
par la dicte iustice li^e au vieil marchb' dedans Rouen, et Ik pub-
liquement fiit arse k la veue de tout le peuple.** Monstrelet, edit.
Sauvage, vol. ii. fol. 71.

BOUEN.

object I — although, now, each surrounding object has
undergone a most palpable change. Ah, my friend —

The unfortunate sufferer is thus described by a French poet of the
latter end of the xyth century :

£t a Rouen en emmenerent
La PucELLE pour prisonniere.

EUe est tr^ doulce, amiable,
Moutonne, sans orgueil ne envie,
Oracieuse, moult serviable,
Et qui menoit bicn belle vie.

Trb souvent elle se confessoit,
Pour avoir Dieu en protecteur,
Ne gaire Feste se passoit.
Que ne receust son Cr^teur.

Mais ce nonobstant les Angloys
Aux vertuz & biens ne penserent,
Aingois en hiune des Fran^oys,
Tres durement si la traicterent.

Puis an derrenier la condamnerent
A mourir douloureusement,
£t brief Tarderent & brullerent
A Rouen tout publiquement.

Z/M Poeiies de Martial de Parti, Paris, 1724,
12mo. vol. i. p. 120.

The identical spot on which she suffered is not now visible, accord-
ing to Milling that place having been occupied by the late Marchi
des Veaux, It was however not half a stone*s throw from the scite of
the present statue. In the Antiquit^s Nationales of the last mentioned
author (vol. iii. art. xxxvi.) there are three plates connected with
die History of Joan of Arc. The Jirst plate represents the Parte Bauve-
reml to the left, and the circular old tower to the right — in which lat-
ter Joan was confined, with some houses before it : the middle ground
is a complete representation of the rubbishing state by which many of
the public buildings at Rouen are yet surrounded and French taste has
enlivened the for^round with a picture of a lover and his mistress,
in a bocage^ regaling themselves with a flagon of wine. The old

ROUEN.

what emotions were once excited within this small
space! What curiosity, and even agony of mind,

circular tower qui vit g^mir cette infortun6e/' flays MiDin) exiBts
no longer. The second plate represents the fountain which was built
in the market-place upon the very spot where the Maid suffered, and
which spot was at first designated by the erection of a cross. From
the style of the embellishments it appears to have been of the time
of Francis I. Goube has re-engraved this fountain. It was taken
down or demolished in 1/55 i upon the scite of which was built
the present tasteless production — resembling, as the author of the
Itin^aire de Ronen (p. 69) well observes, rather a Pallas than
the heroine of Orleans.'* The name of the author was Stodts.
Millin*s third plate — of this present existing fountain, is desirable —
In as much as it shews the front of the house, in the interior of which
are the basso-relievos of the Champ de drap d'Or: for an account of
which see afterwards.

In the same work, vol. ii. p. 2, is a plate of the Maid*s monument
at Orleans, cast in bronze (the second of the kind in France) in the
year 1571. She is kneeling, with her long hair slightly tied with a
riband behind the nape of her neck. Her head is imcovered, and
her helmet and spear are by the side of her. Opposite to her is no
very desirable neighbour — Charles VII. The central subject is the
dead Christ in the lap of the Virgin. Does this monument yet
exist? In a note at vol. iii. p. 3, Art. xxxvi., Millin properly refers
to Lenglet du Fresnoy and Fontette*s edition of Le Long*s BihUotK^ue
Histarique, for a catalogue of the numerous, or rather innumerable,
works, of all kinds, and in all shapes, which were published relating
to the Maid's life and death. The subject has been even dramatifleds
and in the MSS. of the Vatican there is a metrical mystery of the Siege
of Orleans, Millin allows, with equal propriety, that all portraits
of her — ^whether in sculpture, or painting, or engraving — are purely
IDEAL. Perhaps the nearest, in point of fidelity, was that which was
seen in a painted glass window of the church of the Minimes at
Chaillot: although the building was not erected till the time of
Charles VIII. Yet it might have been a copy of some coeval produc-
tion. In regard to oil paintings, I take it that the portrait of Judith,
with a sword in one hand, and the head of Holofbmes in the other, has

ROtJEN,

mmgled with the tumults of indignation^ the shouts
(^levenge^ and the exclamations of pity ! But life now
goes on just the same as if nothing remarkable had hap-
pened here. The past is forgotten. Nor smoke nor
flame is seen ; nor the shrieks of the sufferer are heard.
Poor Joan ! — she is one of the many who, having been
twtured as a heretic, have been afterwards reverenced
as a martyr. Her statue was, not very long after her
execution, almost adored upon that very spot where
her body had been consigned, with execrations, to
the flames. As I gazed upon the present wretched
soolptured representation of her, I could not but think
of the sleepy attempt of Chapelaine, and the more ani-
mated effort of our Southey — to immortalize her
memory. The prison where Joan of Arc was confined
yet partly exists ; and the spot where she was burnt
is attested both by a fountain and a statue, in the
centre of the square. The present statue is indeed
frightful in every respect. It is defective in form, and
divested of the costume of the time : two faults, which
no other beauties (had it possessed any) could have
compensated. However, this square contains probably
one of the very oldest houses in Rouen — and as inte-
racting as it is ancient. It is invisible from without :
bat yon open a wooden gate, and quickly find yourself
jivllhin a small quadrangle, having three of its sides
i'

iMi QfloaUy copied (whh the omission of the latter accompaniment)
as that of Jbanvm d'Abc. But it is time to clow this account of her.
Yet I hardly know a more interesting coUection of books than that
uliidi may be acquired respecting the &te of this equally brare and
anfofiiinate heroine.

VOI«. I. G

100

BOUEN.

covered with ba88o-relieyo figures in plaister. lliat
aide which feces you is evidently older than the left :
indeed I have no hesitation in assigning it to the end
of the xvth century. The clustered ornaments of
human figures and cattle^ with which the whole of
the exterior is covered, reminds us precisely of those
numerous little wood-cut figures, chiefly pastoral^
which we see in the borders of printed missals of the
same period. The taste which prevails in them is half
French and half Flemish. Not so is the character of
the plaister figures which cover the left side on enter-
ing. These, my fiiend, are no less than the represen-
tation of the procession of Henry VIII. and Francis I.
to the fiunous Champ db drap d*Or : of which Mont-
fiiucon^ after his fashion,* has published engravings.

* Montfaucon, after his fashUm,'] Far be it from me to deiNnedate 4ie
labours of Mont&ucon. But those who have not the means of getting
at that learned antiquarian's Monarchie Eran^oue may posdbly hm
an opportunity of examining precisely the same representatkmt^ of
the procession above alluded to, in DueareVi Anglo-Ntnnum JM>
^mties, Plate XII. Till the year 1726 this extraordhiary aeiiea of
ornament was supposed to represent the Council of TrfoU} bol Hit
Abb^ Noel, happening to find a salamander noarked upon the badL
of one of the figures, supposed, with greater truth, that it was a
representation of the abovementioned procession; and accQrdin|^ *
sent Montfiiucon an account of the whole. The Ahhi might hftft •■
found more than one, two, or three salamanders, if he had lodhil
sharply upon this extraordinary exterior and possibly, in his tfai^
the surfaces of the more delicate parts, especially of the te^tnm^
might not have sustained the iiguries which time and aocideiii noir
seem to have inflicted upon them. Mr. Lewis, in the opposite beanftifid
specimen of art, both drawn and engraved by himself, has been
scrupulously exact in shewing the decayed and perfect parts juit as
they appeared at the period of our visit.

ROUEN.

101

Having carefully examined this veiy curious relic^ of
the beginning of the sixteenth century^ I have no hesi-
tation in pronouncing the copy of Montfoncon (or
rather of the artist employed) to be most egregiously
fiuthless. I visited it again and again ; considering it-
to be worth all the " huge clocks" in Rouen put toge-
ther. It was of course too tempting a subject to be
n^lected by the pencil of Mr. Lewis : who selected the
following small portion — as being nearly the most
perfect which remains.

102

BOUEN«

The house itself now a lady^s Imrdiiig^^schooly w<t
thie mistress (Mrs^ Hannar, an English woman) sheirad
Mr. L. all manner of civility and attention during
the execution of the drawing. Several of the young
and sprightly tenants of this old-fkshion^ place caae
and conversed with him, while his pencil was in hia^
hand, and he contrived to vary the occupation of jthat
said pencil, by making one or two pretty little sketches
of their physiognomies. Mrs. Harmar herself had
nearly forgotten her legitimate English — so insenidbly
and surely do foreign sounds and language operate in
living an altered character to our own. I hardly know
how to take you from- this interesting spot — from this
exhibition of beautifiil old art — especially too when I
consider that Francis himself once occupied the man-
sion, and held a council here, with both English and
French : that his bugles once sounded from beneath
the gate-way; and his goblets once sparkled upon
the chestnut tables of the great hall. I do hope
and trust that the Royal Academy of Rouen will not
suffer this architectural relic to perish, without leaving
behind a substantial and a faithful representation
of it.

While upon the subject of ancient edifices — * and

* the subject of ancient edtfices,] On examining the note at page 41,
it will be seen that mention is made of certain views of Rouen, or of
portions of it, which are to be found in the Bibliotheque du Roi at
Paris. In the same collection is a drawing of part of the ancient
building in the Court of the Abbey St, Amand, in one of the streeTs
of Rouen of which I have forgotten the name. In this composi-
tion are seen the arms of Mary of Anhault, the Abbess. It is
cleverly executed> and is well worth engraving. There i« also rathjer

ROUEN.

103

wiute'the gallant deeds of Francis I. may be called
to mind from reading the last paragraph but one — let
me take you with me back again a few steps, and
eromng the Rue de la Chrosse Horlogey contrive to
]plaoe yoQ in the centre of the square which is formed
by the Palais de Justice. The inhabitants con-
sider this building as the principal lim (of a civil
character) in their city. It has indeed great claims
to notice and admiration, but will not bear the severe
acrotiny of a critic in Gothic art. It was partly
erected by thefisunous Cardinal d^Amboisb, (of whom
I expatiated somewhat in my fifth letter) and partly
by Francis I. ; and the Parliament of Normandy
assembled here at the beginning of the sixteenth cen-
tury, as it was built upon the scite of the old parlia-
mait house. This building precisely marks the resto-
mtion of Gothic taste in France, and the peculiar
style of architecture which prevailed in the reign
of Francis I. To say the truth, this style, however
sparkfing and imposing, is objectionable in many
respects: for it is, in the first place, neither pure
Gothic nor pure Grecian — ^but an injudicious mixture
of both. Greek arabesque borders are running up the
sides of a portal, terminating in a Gothic arch ; and
the Gothic ornaments themselves are not in the pui'est,
or the most pleasing, taste. Too much is given to
parts, and too little to the whole. The external orna-
ments are frequently heavy from their size and dabo-

mn interesting view of the entrance into the same abbey^ of the date
<if 1702. Not a vestige of the original now remains. A little prints
liy Sylvestre^ of one of the ^Ad castles^ at Rouen^ may be also just
worth mentioning.

104

ROUEN.

rate execution ; and they seem to be stuck an to the
main building without rhyme or reason. Nevertheless
I know not how you can refusQ assent to the criticism
that this is a vaste batiment d'un gothique ^r6me-
ment d^licat^ et tr^s hardi dans son execution.***
Surely however the architect would have improved^ as
well as enriched, his building, if he had selected portions
from a purer as well as better style of art, observable
in the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen: — but
men will be always inventing, and indulging their
fancies equally at the expense of their judgment and
reputation.

The criminal offences are tried in the hall to the
right, and the prisoners are confined in the lower part
of the building to the left : above which you mount by
a pretty lofty flight of stone steps, which conducts you
to a singularly curious hall,'^' about one hundred and
seventy-five English feet in length — roofed by wooden
ribs, in the form of an arch, and displaying a most
curious and exact specimen of carpenter's work. This
is justly shewn and commented upon to the enquiring
traveller. Parts of the building are devoted to the
courts of assize, and to tribunals of audience of almost
every description. The first Presidents of the Pdrlia-

* Itin^aire de Rouen, 1815, 8vo.

t In DucareFs time, " the ground story consisted of a great quad-
rangle surrounded with booksellers shops. On one side of it a stone
staircase led to a large and lofty room, which, in its internal as
well as external appearance, resembled, though in miniature, West-
minster hall. Here (continues Ducarel) I saw several gentlemen of
the long robe, in their gowns and bands, walking up and down with
briefs in their hands, and making a great show of business,** AngUh
Norman Antiquitiesj p. 3^.

BOUEN.

106

ment lived formerly in the building which faces yon
upon entrance, but matters have now taken a very
differei\t turn. Upon the whole, this Town Hall, or
call it what you will, is rather a magnificent erection ;
aad certainly very much superior to any provincial
building of the kind which we possess in England. I
should tell you that the courts for commercial or civil
causes are situated near the quays, at the south part
of the town: and Monsieur Riaux, who conducted
me thither, (and who possesses the choicest library *
of antiquarian books, of all descriptions, relating to
Rouen, which I had the good fortune to see) carried
me to the Hall of Commerce, which, among other
apartments, contains a large chamber (contiguous to
the Court of Justice) covered with fleurs de lys
upon a light blue ground. It is now however much
in need of reparation: fresh lilies and a new ground
are absolutely necessary — to harmonise with a large
oil-painting at one end of it,-f' in which is represented

* the choiice$t Ubrary,'] Monsieur Riaux^ Aichiviste de la Chambre
de Commerce. This amiable man and intelligent Bibliomaniac pro-
mised to send me a list of his rarer and more valuable volumes^
before I left Rouen. He unites a love of literary with architectural an-
tiquities. The collection of M. Le Prevost is however as copious.

f At another end of this chamber of the Hall of Commerce is a
Uglily coloured picture, of colossal dimensions, representing the Genitu
of Commerce. It was bespoke by the Corporation of M. Le Monnier,
of the Royal Academy of Painting, and is full of allegorical repre-
sentations, comprehending the four quarters of the globe. " Imposant*'
as this picture may be considered, and introduced to your attention
by several printed pages of description, I could not but consider it very
duU, very faulty, and very uninteresting.

106

ROUEN.

the reception of Louis XVI. at Rouen by the Mayor
and Deputies of the town, in 1786. AU the figures
are of the size of life, well painted after the originals^
and appear to be strong resemblances. On enquiring
how many of them were now livmg, I was told that
— ALL WERE DEAD ! The fatc of the principal figure
is but too well known. They should have this inte*
resting subject — ^interesting undoubtedly to the inha*
bitants — executed by one of their best engravers. It
represents the unfortunate Louis quite in the prime of
life; and is the best whole length portrait of him
which I have yet seen in painting or engraving.
What an ornament for a provincial, or what we should
call a county, publication ? But let us hope that the
city of Rouen will yet have its Whittakbr to describe
its curiosities, and record its antiquities. I wish it no
better historian.

It is right however that you should know, that, in
the Tribunal for the determination of commercial
causes, there sits a very respectable Bench of Judges :
among whom I recognised one that had perfectly the
figure, air, and countenance, of an Englishman. I
will also add (in sober truth) that he was the best
looking of the whole. On enquiry of my guide, I
found my supposition verified. He was an English-
man ; but peradventure was indebted to a thirty years
residence in the climate of Rouen for his handsome
countenance and gentlemanly appearance I The ju-
dicial costume is appropriate in every respect; but
I could not help smiling upon meeting, the other
morning, betimes, with my friend the judge, standing
before the door of his house, in the open street — ^witb

ROUEN.

107

a hairy cap on — leisurely smoking his pipe. Would

Mr. Justice L of old, or Mr. Justice ■

that now is, recreate himself in the like manner ? I trow
not. I hope you do not fail to remember that this is
my Sixth Letter — " from the vine-covered hills and
gay regions of France

106

LETTER VII.

the quays. bridge of boats. rub du bac. rub
de robec. eaux de robbc bt d*aubettb.

mont stb. catharine. hospices g^n^ralb et

d'humanit^.

Still tarrying within this old fashioned place! I
have indeed yet much to impart before I quit it^ and
which I have no scruple in avowing will be well de-
serving of your attention. Do not expect me however
to be for ever lingering within mouldy walls and per-
ishing towers — and that the living are to be systemati-
cally neglected for the dead — ^tho* as^uedly you

life enough" towards the latter parlNMVi l^t
patch. Our day of departure is at lengt^xed,
probably ^his may be my last epistlft but om
hence.

Just letting you know^ in few worda^ Jhat I 1ml
visited the famous chemical labor
(Rue Beauvoisine) and the yet more
tacle exhibited in M. Lemere's machine for sav
wood of all descriptions, into small or large planks, 1
means of water works — must take you along thb
QUAYS for a few minutes. Iliese quays aie flanked by
an architectural front, which, were it \
to the original plan, would present ilg^l
the noblest structures in Europe. To the blest <tf my
recollection this stone front was begun in the reign of
Louis XV. but many and prosperous must be the years

HOUEN.

of art> of commerce, and of peace, before money suffi-
cient can be raised for the successful completion of the
pile. The quays are long, broad, and full of bustle of
every description ; while in some of the contiguous
squares, ponderous bales of goods, shawls, cloth, and
Ihien, are spread open to catch the observing eye. In
the midst of this varied and animated scene, walks a
WELL-KNOWN CHARACTER, in his large cocked hat, and
with his tin machine upon his back, filled with lemon-
ade or coffee, surmounted by a bell — which " ever and
anon*' is sounded for the sake of attracting customers.
Mr. Lewis has copied the entire scene to the life.

110

BOUEN.

. As you pass along this animated scene, by the side
of the rapid Seine, and its Bridge of Boats*, yoa

" * The communication with the country lying south of Roaeo> is
canted on by means of a timber bridge, two hundred paces in length,
thrown over the River Seine from the middle of the quay to the Ftta-
bourg St. Sever^ and of which the inhabitants talk with infinite rap-
tures. This structure, begun in the year 16^6, is framed upon nwetetn
barges which rise and fall with the flux and reflux of the tide. It is so
contrived that when there is occasion for vessels to pass through, one*
|Art of it, by the help of pullies, turns upon iron rollers over the othir
part, without the least iiyury to either. It hath also, as I was infonn-
ed, this farther covenience, that it can be taken to pieces in a few
hours, when any danger is apprehended from the winter floods bring*
ing down large flakes of ice. Tlie expense of keeping this flaatmg
bridge in repair is very considerable, as the barges on which it is con-
structed, as wetl as the other parts of it, are subject to frequent decay \
inasmuch that it is said to amount, comniunibus annis, to ten thousand
livres French, or upwards of four hundred pounds sterling. Just be-
low it are the ruins of the once magnificent stone bridge, which con-
sisted of thirteen arches, and was built by the Empress Maud, daughter
of Henry I. King of England. This old bridge seems to have been
much better situated than the present, having been placed so as to
range in a line with the principal street, which is to this day called
B.ue Grand Pont ; but after having stood firm between three or four
hundred years, it began to feel a very sensible decay, and on the 22d of
August 1502, three arches fell down, which in 1533 were followed by
two others. These defects were supplied by a super-structure of tim-
ber} but a few years after, some of the other arches beginning to open^
the carriage and foot ways became so dangerous, that they were to-
tally abandoned, and the passage over the river was from that time
effected by means of ferry boats. Several attempts were after this
made to repair the old bridge, but the ignorance of the French archi-
tects was so great, that they unanimously declared it impossible to re-
build a stone bridge in that place, on account of the depth of the
water, and the rapidity of the river. Whereupon the present floating
bridge was constructed in the manner I have mentioned.** Ducaskl^
p. 35-6.

ROUEN.

Ill

cannot help glancing now and then down the narrow
old-£ei8hioned streets, which run at right angles with
the quays — ^with the innumerable small tile-fashioned
pieces of wood, like scales, upon the roofs — which
seem as if they would be demolished by every blast.
The narrowness and gloom of these streets, together
with the bold and overwhelming projections of the upper
stories and roofs, aflford a striking contrast with the
animated scene upon the quays : — where the sun shines
with full freedom, as it were, and where the glitter-
ing streamers, at innumerable mast-heads, denote the
wealth and prosperity of the town. If the day happen
to be fine, you may devote half a morning in con-
templating, and mingling with, so interesting a scene.
Judge yourself of one of these cramped streets, and
overshadowing roofe, by the following spirited drawing

To this may be subjoined^ that Buonaparte commenced the building
of a new stone bridge 3 of which only the abutments on each side
of the river^ and one or two of the piers for arches in the middle,
mre executed. I should apprehend that the present bridge of boats
(which is always one of the ugliest and most unpicturesque convey-
ances imaginable) would hardly last two dozen of years. The central
part for the carriages is terribly worn and as I was walking upon it,
during the passage of the Caen diligence, I thought the whole structure
would have sunk into the bed of the river. A view of the river, the
flhqiping, and the town, from a fine lofty stone bridge, would be en-
dianting. I saw however, at Paris, in a collection of prints relating to
Normandy (mentioned at page 41 ante) three pretty etchings, by
IsBABL SiLVESTRS of the ruius of the old stone bridge. Silvestre
flourished in 1650-60. Evelyn thus notices these ruins in 1644. There
stand yet the mines [says he] of a magnificent bridge of stone, now
supply'd by oneof boates only, to which come up vessels of consider-
able burden." EveUfn's Memoirs-, vol. i. p. 50. Edit. 1S18.

112

ROUEN.

of the Rue du Bac — leading to the south transept of
the Cathedral — which has already cut so gay a figure
in tliese despatches.*

We liave liad frequent thunder-storms of late; and
the other Sunday evening, happening to be sauntering at
a consi(ieral)le heiglit above the north-west Boulevards,
towards the Fauhotir^i: Caucholse^ I gained a summit,
upon the edge of a gravel pit, wlience I looked down
unexpectedly and precipitously upon the town below.
A magnificent aiul immense cloud was rolling over the
whole (?ity. The Seine was however visible on the;
other side of it, shining like a broad silver chord; whil9
the barren, ascending |)lains, through which the road
to (,'aen |)asscs, were gradually becoming dusk with the
overshadowing cloud, and drenched with rain which,
seemed to be rushing down in one immense torrent.
The top of the Cathech-al and of the abbey of St. Ouen
were almost veiled in darkness, by the passingstonn ; but
the lower part f)f the tower, and the whole of the nave
of each building, were in one stream of golden light —
from the last powerful rays of the setting sun. In ten
minutes this nuigically-varied scene settled into the
sober, uniform tint of evening ; but I can never forget
the rich bed of i)nrj)le and pink, fringed with burnish-
ed gold, in which the sun of that evening set. I de-
scended— absorbed in the r(»collection of the lovely-
objects which 1 had just contemplated — and regaled by
the sounds of a thousand little gurgling streamlets^

* See the opposite copper-plate. Perhaps this is one of the
closest and most faitliful of copies; and gives you a decided idea of
the fj^eiierality of those ohi, narrow streets^ so particularly mentioned
in the text.

ROUEN.

113

created by the passing tempest, and hastening to pre-
cipitate themselves into the Seine.

Of the different trades, especially retail, which are
carried on in Rouen with the greatest success, those
connected with the cotton manufactories cannot fiail to
claim your attention ; and I fancied I saw, in some of
the shop-windows, shawls and gowns which might pre-
sume to vie with our Manchester andNoi-wich produc-
tions. Nevertheless, I learnt that the French were
extremely partial to British manufactures: and cotton
stockings, colored muslins, and what are called
ginghams, are covetted by them with the same
fcmdness as we prize their cambric and lace.
Thdr best articles in watches, clocks, silver orna-
ments^ and trinkets, are obtained from Paris. But in
respect to upholstery, I must do the Rouennois the
justice to say, that I never saw any thing to compare
with their escrutoires and other articles of Aimiture
made of the walnut tree. These upright escrutoires,
or writing desks, are in almost every bed- room of the
more respectable hotels : but of course their polish is
gone when they become stationary furniture in an
inn — ^for the art of rubbing, or what is called elbow-
grease with us, is almost unknown on either side of
the Seine. You would be charmed to have a fine spe-
cimen of a side board, or an escrutoire, (the latter
five or six feet high) made by one of their best cabinet-
makers from choice walnut wood. The polish and
tone of colour are equally gratifjdng; and resemble
somewhat that of rose wood, but of a gayer aspect.
The or-molu ornaments are tastefrilly put on ; but the

114

ROUEN.

general shape, or contour, of the several pieces of fur-
niture, struck me as being in bad taste.

He who wishes to be astonished by the singnlarity
of a scene, connected with trade, should walk leisurely
down the Rue de Robec. It is surely the oddest, and,
as some may think, the most repulsive scene imaginable:
but who that has a rational curiosity could resist such
a walk ? Here live the dyers of clothes — and in the
middle of the street rushes the precipitous stream,
called LEau de /ioftec*— receiving colours of all hues.
To day it is nearly jet black : to-morrow it is br^t
scarlet : a third day it is blue, and a fourth day it is
yellow ! Meanwhile it is partially concealed by little
bridges,, communicating with the manufactories, or
with that side of the street where the work-people
live: and the whole has a dismal and disagreeable as-
pect— especially in dirty weather : but if you go to one
end of it (I think to the north — ^as it runs north and
south) and look down upon the descending street,
with the overhanging upper stories and roofe — ^the
foreshortened, numerous bridges — the differently-co-
lored dyed clothes, suspended from the windows, or
from poles — the constant motion of men, women, and
children, running across the bridges — with the rapid,
camelion stream beneath — ^you cannot fail to acknow-
ledge that this is one of the most singular, gro-

* Bourgueville describes this river, in the sixteenth centary, asbdi^
aucune fois iaulne, autrefois rouge^ verte, bleu^^ viol^e & autres
couleurs, selon qu'vn grand nombre de teinturiers qui sont dessus^ la
diuersifient par interualles en faisant leurs maneures."

Antiquitez de Caen, p. 36.

ROUEN.

115

tesque, and uncommon sights in the wonder-working
city of Rouen. With all the betraying simplicity of
a stranger^ I stopped opposite a house in which I
saw a basso-relievo ornament of a knight, praying be
neath a tree, while his horse was grazing beside him.
This plaister ornament had the date of somewhere be-
tween 1580 andl590 — ^but just now I forget the precise
year. Possibly this might have been a representation
of St* Hubert; or possibly the house might have been
the residence of some distinguished character during the
League, — ^but how comfortable are possibilities** in the
solution of difficulties, or the appropriation of persons
and things? I ought to tell you that our old friend
the first jbmous Cardinal d*Amboise caused the
Eau de Robec to be directed through the streets of
Rouen, from its original channel or source in a little
valley near St. Martin da Vivien. Formerly there
was a much more numerous clan of these teintu-
riers'* in the Rue de Robec — but they have of late
sought more capacious premises in the fauxbourgs de
St. Hilaire and de Martainvil/e. The neighbouring sis-
ter-stream, FEau d^Aubette, is destined to the same pur-
poses as that of which I have been just discoursing ;
but I do not at this moment recollect whether it be also
dignified, in its course, by turning a few com mills, ere
it empties itself into the Seine. Indeed the thundering
noise of one of these mills, turned by the Robec river,
near the church of St. Maclou, will not be easily for-
gotten by me. Thus you see of what various, strange,
and striking objects the city of Rouen is composed.
Bustle, noise, life and activity, in the midst of an at-
mosphere unsullied by the fumes of sea coal : hilarity

116

ROUEN.

and apparent contentment: the spraoe bourgeoise and
the slattern fille de chambre : — attired in vestments of
deep crimson and dark blue — every thing flits be-
fore you as if touched by magic, and as if sorrow and
misfortune were unknown to the inhabitants.

Paull5 majora canamus.** In other words, let us
leave the town for the country. Let us hurry through
a few more bizarre alleys, courts, and streets — and as
the morning is yet beautiful, let us hasten onwards to
enjoy the famous Panorama of Rouen and its environs
from the Mont Ste. Catharine . . . Indeed, my friend,
I sincerely wish that you could have accompanied us
to the summit of this enchanting eminence : but as
you are far away, you must be coAtent with a brief de-
scription of our little expedition thither.* The Mont
St. Catharine, which is entirely chalk, is considered
the highest of the hills in the immediate vicinity of
Rouen ; or rather, perhaps, is considered the point of
elevation from which the city is to be viewed to the

* expedition thither,']— When John Evelyn visited this neighbour-
hood^ in 1644> the country so abounded with wolres, that a shep-
herd^ whom he met, told him that one of his companions was stran-
gled by one of them the day before — and that, in the midst of the
flock ! The fields (continues he) are mostly planted with pears and
apples and other cider fruits. It is plentifully furnished with quarries
of stone and slate, and hath iron in abundance." Memoirs of the Uife
and Writings of John Evelyn, vol. i. p. 50. Edit. 1818. My friend
Mr. J. H. Markland (a tried good Roxburgher) visited Mont St. Catha-
rine the year after the visit above described. He was of course en-
chanted with the view 3 and told me, that a friend whom he met there,
and who had travelled pretty much in Italy, assured him there was
nothing like it on the banks of either the Amo or the Po. In short, it
is quite peculiar to itself— and cannot be smpassed.

BOUEN.

117

greatest possible advantage. It lies to the left of the
Seine^ in your way from the town ; and the ascent begins
considerably beyond the barriers. Indeed it is on the
route to Paris. We took an excellent fiacre to carry us
to the beginning of the ascent, that our 1^ might be
in proper order for scrambling up the acclivities imme-*
diately above ; and leaving the main road to the light,
we soon commenced our ambulatory operations in
good earnest. But there was not much labour or
much difficulty : so, halting, or standing, or sitting, on
each little eminence, our admiration seemed to en-
crease — ^till, gaining the highest point, looking towards
the west, we found ourselves immediately above the
town and the whole of its environs ....

Heavens, what a goodly prospect spreads around !'*

8ud I to myself— bethinking me of the well-known
verse in Thomson*s description of the view from Rich-
mond Hill. The prospect was indeed goodly — ^" being
varied, extensive, fertile, and luxuriant ... in spite of a
comparatively backward spring. The city was the
main object, not only of attraction, but of astonish-
ment. Although the point from which we viewed it
is considered to be exactly on a level with the summit
of the spire of the Cathedral, yet we seemed to be
hanging, as it were, in the air, immediately over the
streets themselves. We saw each church, each public
edifice, and almost each street ; nay, we began to think
we could discover almost every individual stirring
in them. The soldiers, exercising on the parade in the
Champ de Mars, seemed to be scarcely two stones
throw from us ; while the sounds of their music reached

118

ROUEN.

us in the most distinct and gratifying manner. No-— ■
" Diable boiteux** could ever have transported a Don
Cleophas L^ndro Perez Zambullo** to a more favour-
able situation for a knowledge of what was passing in a
dty ; and if the houses had been unroofed^ we could have
almost discerned whether the escrutoires were made of
mahogany or of walnut-wood ! This wonder-working
effect proceeds from the extraordinary clearness of the
atmosphere, and the absence of sea-coal Aime. The sky
was perfectly blue — the generality of the roofe were
also composed of blue slate : this, added to the incipient
verdure of the boulevards, and the darker hues of the
trunks of the trees, upon the surrounding hills — ^the
lengthening forests to the left, and the numerous white
maisons de plaisance"* to the right — while the Sdne,
with its hundred vessels, immediately below, to the
left, and in face of you — ^with its cultivated little
islands — and the sweeping meadows or race-ground-f-
on the other side — all, or indeed any, of these objects
could not fail to excite our warmest admiration, and
to make us instinctively exclaim that such a pa-
norama was perfectly unrivalled!" Mr. Lewis took

• It is thus prettily observed in the little Itineraire de Rouen — Ces
agr^ables maisons de plaisance appartiennent h. des habitants de Roue n
qui y viennent en famille, dans la belle saison^ se d^lasser des embams
dela viUe et des fatigues du commerce.'* p. 153.

t race-ground.'] — ^When the English cavalry were quartered here in
1814-5, the officers were in the frequent habit of racing with each
other. These races weregaily attended by the inhabitants; and I hcard^
from more than one mouthy the warmest conunendations bestowed upon
thefleetness of the coursers and the skill of the riders

ROUEN.

119

oat his. drawiiig4)ook and pencil — and rather attempt-
ed^ than executed, a sketch of this enchanting view.

More immediately opposite, within a fine wood upon
a bold hill, stood the house of the Mayor of Rouen for
time being. I think they call this place Canteleu.
It is very picturesque : but, as my hour of departure
from hence draws near, and as you cannot possibly
liave more than another Rouen dispatch, (which mti^^
and shall be devoted to Iiooftejf — with the delightful
et cetaras dependent thereupon) 1 shall only express my
T^pret that I cannot visit other equally well known spots
in the environs of Rouen . . . that I cannot wander in
the lonely valley of Mont-aux-Malades* — ^fit place for
conventual or monastic dwelling — and ascend its nu-
merous adjacent eminences, which, although they
should seem to shut out the world, enable you to see
the world from thence ! . . . that I must turn my back
perhaps for ever upon Bapaume, Croissety and D^viUe,
and (yet more cruel fate !) upon the sweet and smiling
plains of Bois-guillaume. But I will not repine. I
have seen much and enjoyed much. I have paced the
naves of the Cathedral and of the abbey of St. Ouen ; and

* Mant'Oux-Malades], — Les campagnes environnantes du Mont-
aux-Malades ofirent des cdteaux charmants qui invitent k s*y reposer.
IjeuTB richesses, leur vari^t^^ le silence de ces lieux solitaires^ qui n*est
troabl^ que par les chants de PhilomMe et des heureux habitants des
mirs, tout invite h, s'y arr^ter et k se livrer k la plus douce m^lancholie
l«ur ces pelouses ^maill^es de fleurs." Itineraire de Rouen, p. 152.
Such a passage — though from a waistcoat-pocket Itinerary — is not un-
deserving of quotation. Mont-aux-Malades (its name derived, I ap-
prehend, from the place being the resort of valetudinarians) lies above
*the Fauxbourgs Cauchoise and Bouvreuil about a French league from
the dty.

VOL. I. H

120

ROUEN.

have stood as it were upon their pinnacles, while gazing
at them from the height of Mont St£. Catharine I

M. P^riaux, a very sensible man, and Member of
the Royal Academy of Rouen, as wdl as a printer of
equal business and reputation, wrote out for me a list
of all the desirable places to be visited in the vicinity
of the city : but to write out," and to carry what is
written into execution, are very different matters. I
admitted to my Instructor that Mant-aux^Maladei
and Bihorel must remain unvisited by me ... He
answered, done vous n'auriez rien vft.** But thus
is surely a mere Academic flourish. We descended
Mont Ste. Catharine* on the side facing the Hospice
G^ndrali a building of a very handsome form, and
considerable dimensions. It is a noble establishment
for foimdUngs, and the aged smd infirm of both 8«es.
I was told that not fewer than twenty-five himdred
human beings were sheltered in this asylum ; a numba:,
which equally astonished and delighted me. The de-
scent, on this side the hill, is exceedingly pleasing ;
being composed of serpentine little walks, through
occasional alleys of trees [and shrubs, to the vary
base of the hill, not many hundred yards from the

* This mount takes its name from an abbey formerly built there and
dedicated to the Holy Trinity of which abbey Simeon, a religious
character from Moimt Sinai, was the founder. He, and his holy at-
tendant (of the name of Gosselin) carried thither the relics of St. Ca-
therine, and hence the place is called Mont Ste. Catharine. Pommeraye
has devoted ninety folio pages to the Histaire de VAhhaye de la Ste. TVi-
niti; dite du Mont de Sainte Catharine; and is careful to tell us how
Simeon got into possession of the relics of the Saint.*'

Histoire de VAhhaye Roy ale de St Ouen, 1662^ folio.

ROUEN.

121

faoqiitd. The architecture of this extensive building is
more mixed tiian that of its neighbour the Hospice
dUumamtij on account of the different times in which
portions of it were added : but, upon the whole, you
are rather struck with its approach to what may be
called magnificence of style. I was indeed pleased with
the good order and even good breeeding of its motley
inhabitants. Some were strolling quietly, with thdr
arms behind them, between rows of trees: — others
were tranquilly sitting upon benches : a tliird group
would be in motion within the squares of the building :
a fourth appeared in deep consultation whether the
patage of to-day were not inferior to that of the pre-
ceding day? — Que cherchez vous. Monsieur ?'* said a
fine looking old man, touching, and half taking off,
his cocked hat f " I wish to see the Abb6 Tur-
quier," — re^cmed I. " Ah, il vient de sortir — par ici,
Monsieur." Thank you." " Monsieur je vous sou-
haite le bon jour — au plaisir de vous revoir T And
thus I paced through the squares of this vast building.
The Portier" had a countenance which our Wilkie
irould have seized with avidity, and copied with inimi-
table spirit and fidelity.

The Jardin des Plantes is in the immediate vicinity
of this Hospital. It was established during the reign
of Louis XV., and my amiable acquaintance, the fore-
mentioned Abb£, is one of the brightest ornaments of
the Botanic institution which is attached to it. This
garden, next to that at Paris, is considered the most
carious in France. I rambled through it — regaled by

122

ROUEN.

the odours of the violet and jonquille, and still more
rejoiced at the sight of the blossoms of the apple and
ahnond trees. Spring is come at last . . . But where
are the Books, and MSS. and Printing Presses of
which I heretofore spake ? A little patience^ and then.

LETTER VIIL

BARLY TYPOGRAPHY AT ROUEN. MODERN PRINTERS.
CHAP BOOKS. BOOKSELLERS. BOOK COLLECTORS.

" Yes — and then" ... for all the gossip and chit-
chat connected with paper ^ inky books, printing-offices,
and curiosities of every graphic description. Perhaps
the most regular method would be to speak of a few
of the principal presses, before we take the productions
of these presses into consideration. And firsts as to
the antiquity of printing in Rouen.* The art of print-
ing is supposed to have been introduced here, by a
citizen of the name <^ Maufer, between the years
1470 and 1480. Some of the specimens of Rouen
Missals and Breviaries, especially of those by Morin^
who was the second printer in this city, are very
splendid. His device, which is not common, but ra-
ther striking, is here enclosed for your gratifica-^
tion.

* antiquity of printing in 12oti6n.]— The reader may possibly not Ob-
ject to coDsnlt two or three pages of the BihUographical Decameron,
begmning. at page 137> vol. ii. respecting a few early Rouen printef8»
The name of Maufsb> however, appears in a fine large folio volume,
entitled Gaietanus de Ttenis Vincentini in Quatt. Aristot. Metheor, Li-
bras, of the date of 1476 — in the possession of Earl Spencer. From
the colophon of which we can only safely infer that Maufer was a
^izen of Rouen,

124

ROUEN.

Few provincial towns have been more fertile in ty-
pographical productions ; and the reputation of Taii.*
LBUR, GuALTiBR^ and Valentin^ gave great respect*
ability to the press of Rouen at the commencement of
the XVI th century.*

* at the commencement of the xyith ceitliiry.]— Among the earlier
works of a poetical description^ which seem to haveanj direct oonnectifm
with Rouen, is the one entitled Palinodz^ Chants royauz. Ballades^
Rddeaulx, et Epigrammes } a Fhonnem' de limmacuke Coception^ &o.

On the third leaf are the names of those who contrihuted ballads, &c.
among which we read M. Andry de la vigne : M. Guillaome Cretui.
lehanMarot. Nicolle le vestu. Nicolle aubert. Pierre lelieor. N.tiuw
hot. G. Thibault. laques du pare. Innocent tourmente. Pierre le
cheuallier. Crygnon de Dieppe. Guygnart appotkaire. Pieot. Guil*

BOUEN.

T25

Yet I am not tSble to ascertain whether this press was
very frditM in 1lmiiMejf,€^mdcltfty and o&l S^oettp-

lanme roger. Clement marot. laques fiUaster. Busquet. Tasserie.
Prere Guillaiune Alexis.

All the poetry is of a serious and sombre cast— not approaching any
thing like energy or sublimity : with over-strained conceits. I will
give a specimen or two^ that the reader may judge for himself. At
feoillet. Ixxi^ we have

Ballade premier de la roze,

Lan passe en terre gellee
Bk fut si nidement traicte.
Que au iourdhuy par la jprande gdee
Nous souffroDS au ble la charte :
Mais deuant que tout fut gaste,
Dieu retint en certaine place.
Contre firoit qui cest trop haste
La terre rendant ble de grace :

Ceste terre nest point fbullee
Ne fouye yucr ny este
Le soleil ou pluye coulee
Par grace ya tousiours este
Son rayon dorient monte
Grace sur elle contre la glace
Garda par diuine bonte
La terre rendant ble de grace.

Par la terre idnsy desolee
Vint hm au peuple supplian
Par lautre ame est consolee
Du ble que grace y a plante
Ble en lyuer fiit desplante
Lautre est tousiours fertHle et grasse
Preste a donner fruict a plante
La terre rendant ble de grace.

Renuoy.

Prince le pfun par vous gouste
De son ble porte lefficace

126 .

ROUEN.

your beloved objects of research ! I rather think,
however/that it was not deficient in this popular class

Qui presenia du froit double
La terre rendant ble de grace
M. Guillaume Thibault.

Beneath a rondeau^ by Guillauine Cretin^ is the fbUowing — by the
same hand :*-*

Argumentum,

Vng fiacteur fut Osrhan nomme
Roy sur tous chantres renomme
Qui feist en des partz trente six
Vng motet tellement asseis
Quon ne veit oncq oemire semblable
A derici chantre louable
Premier queuoyer par chemin
Le feist noter en parchemin
Puys pour le chanter assembht
Chantres auquelz tresbon sembk.
Le fiBM^teur dieu nous signifie
Son motet dont les partz ie nombre
Ce sacre concept certifie
Qui grace et vertus eut sans nombre.

Le noteur et le parchemin
Flgurent Anne & loachin
Verbes passifz, pleurs manifestes
Chantres, patriarches, prophetes
Et les docteurs de saincte egUse
^ Qui prouuent oenure tresexquise
Ceste vierge dont fut yssant
lesu Christ sen resiouyssant

fueillet Ixxii.

I may be pardoned for not giving more of the French : the latter
few leaves are devoted to Latin verse — somewhat more refreshing
than the preceding : Thus : —

" QtuB est ista qua progyeditur, quan

aurora consurgens, Cantworum vL cap.

lam noua concipiens intacte exordia proUs,
Pieria proferre tuba, atq decentibus orsis

BOUEN. 127

of Hterature, if I am to judge from the specimens which
are yet lingering, as it were, in the hands of the curi-
ous. I ought rather to say, which are yet extant**
(certainly not in choice print/*) in the hands of the
many. The gravity even of an archiepiscopal see could
never repress the natural love of the French, from
time immemorial, for light and fancifrd reading.

You know with what pertinacity I grope about old
alleys, old courts, bye-lanes, and unfrequented comers
— ^being like Harry Dyson of old, (according to Tom
Hearne's account of him*) a person of a very strange,
prying, and inquisitive genius, in the matter of books*'
— in the search of what is curious, precious, and rare
in the book way. But ere we touch that enchant-
ing chord, let us proceed according to the plan laid
down. First therefore for printing offices. Of these,
the names of Periaux, (Imprimeur de FAcademieJ

Hereo, cui liceat diuam conferre nitentem.
An sit phas homini, quae iam supereminet orbes :
Etheris ardentis describere nubibus imbris
Sine niui similem, plenimq ; nocentia terns
Icta cadut. sed lorgo manet super astra salutem
Terrigenum curans, ne non nocitura coercens.
Ergo nec est nubes seu nix dicenda nec imber
Virgo mihi. potius latijs aurora vocanda est
VodbuSy etherei certissima nunda solis.

&c. &c. &c. Fo. Ixxvii.

It is si^ed " Picardus laurea donatus.** The whole volume con-
tains 100 leaves. A wood cut of the Virgin and child within a glory^ in
the middle of an upright figure of a female^ radiated^ is on the reverse
of the last leaf. Messrs. Arch^ Booksellers^ had a copy of this curious
volume in their Catalogue of 1819> which was bound in blue
morocco^ marked at the price of 82. 6s,

* See BiblUmania, p. 398.

ROTIEN.

Baudry^ (Imprimeur du Roi) MkQAnb, fBue JUar-
tinmllejy and Lbcr&kb-Labbby^ (Imprmeur^IAhr&ire
et Marchand de Papiers) are masters of the pHncipal
presses ; but such is the influence of Paris, or of me-
tropolitan fashions, that a publisher will sometimes
prefer getting his work printed at the capital-r-and
even the " Description Historique de VEglise M^ro-
politaine de Notre-Dame de Rouen (which I have so
frequently mentioned, and which is published by
Frbrb, the most respectable bookseller at Rouen),
was printed in the Metropolis. Of the foregoil^^
printers, it behoves me to n^e sonie particular
mention ; and yet I can speak personally but of tW0 :
Messieurs P^riaux and M^gard. M. P^riaux is printer
to the Acadimie des Sciences, Belles-Lettres et Arts die
Rouen, of which academy, indeed, he is himself an
accomplished member.* He is quick, intelligent,
well-bred, and obliging to the last degree ; and may
be considered the Harry Stephen o[ the Rouen
Printers. He urged me to call often: but I could
visit him only twice. Each time I found him in his

* himself an accomplished MemberJ] — ^In the sittiiigs cxf the Society
for August L812> M. Periaux is announced as having communicated

un m^moire rempli de recherches et d*6rudition^ dans lequel il
examine cette question:** La Lune pascaXe doit elle 4tre appelUe Lune
de Mars** En d*autres termes : Aquel mots solaxre un mots (u-
fiaire est-il cens4 appartenir?'* Two of the Members pronounced a
most favourable eulogy upon this ingenious performance— whidi is
printed^ and may be had of all the Rouen booksellers. M. Periaux is
just now occupied in the laborious but useful task of giving a Guide
or HisTOBY of RouBN^ according to the alphabetical order of the
streets and public buildings^ &c.

ROUEN.

1S9

conntii^ hduse^ with his cap on-shading his eyes : a
peii in his right hand, and a proof sheet in his left,
fnioiigh he rqoiced at seeing me, I could discover
^mach to his praise) that, like Aldus, he wished me to

msy my saying quickly,"* and leave him to his deles
and stets ! He has a great run of business, and lives
In me of those strange, old-*&shioned houses, in the
form of a square, with an outside spiral staircase, so
common in this extraordinary city. He introduced
me to his son, an intelligent young man — ^weil quali*
fied to take the labouring oar, either upon the tem-
porary or permanent retirement of his parent. M.
P^riaux shewed me, with a conscious air of triumph,
a map — printed with metal types within wood*cut de-
markations of the different countries — and executed
upon a scale which renders it rather an uncommon
performance for the press. He has promised to pre-
sent me with a copy of it — but I am not sure that I
merit such a mark of his kindness. He was very
anxioufi that I should make myself well acquainted
with the UH:ale of this city, and even penned down, as I
told you, the several places I ought to visit, with an
earnestness approaching to a command — that I should
of necessity see them.

(X Monsieur Megard, who may be called the an-
cient Jenson^ or the modem Buhner, of Rouen, I can
speak only in terms of praise — ^both as a civil gentle-
man and as a successfol printer. He is doubtless the

* like Aldus, ''say my saying'* quickly,'] Consult Mr. Roscoe's Life of
Leo X. vol, i. p. 169-70> 8vo. edit. Unger^ in his Life of Aldus,
edt^. Geret p. xxxxii. has a pleasant notice of an inscription^ to the
same efiect> put over the door of his printing office by Aldus.

130 HOUEN.

most elegant printer in this city ; and being also a
publisher, his business is veiy considerable. He
makes his regular half yearly journeys among the
neighbouring towns and villages, and as regularly
brings home the fruits of his enterprise and indus-
try. The approach to his premises, in the Rue
Martinville^ is sufficiently repulsive. In the usual
manner, you pull a wire or string, and the door u
opened by an invisible hand. You enter; pass along
a range of offices, where presses are at work; ascend a
flight of steps in front ; enter the warehouse, filled with
a large stock of common vendible books ; and view,
from the windows thereof, a beautiful portion of the
south side of the Abbey of St. Ouen. Below, are a small
court and garden ; such as would be considered of in-
estimable value if adjoining the premises and appurte-
nances of many of our London printers. If a large
chimney, or a good part of a shabby old house were difr*
placed, the view of the abbey, from this warehdose,
would be perfectly enviable. On my first visits M;
M^gard was from home ; but Madame, son ^powe
Tattendoit k chaque moment There is a particular
class of women among the Fi*ench, which is sin-
gularly intelligent, civil, and even well-bred. I mean
the wives of the more respectable tradesmen. Thus
I found it, in addition to a hundred similar previous
instances, with Madame M^gard. Mais Monsieur,
je vous prie devous asseoir. Quevoulez vous?**'*^!
wish to have a little conversation with your husband.
I am an enthusiastic lover of the art of printing. I
search every where for skilfril printers, and thus
it is that I am in pursuit of Monsieur M^gard."

HOUEN.

131

An immediate declension of the eye-lids^ accompa-
nied with the most gentle obeisance^ attested the
sensibility of the wife to the just eul(^ bestowed
iipon her husband. We both sat down and con-
versed together; and I found in Madame M^gard a
middle-aged woman^ and mother of several children,)
a communicative, and well-instructed representative
of the said ancient Jenson, or modem Buhner. —
^ Enfin, voilk mon mari qui arrive" — said Madame,
taming round, upon the opening of thp door :— when
I looked forward, and observed a stout man, rather
above the middle size, with a countenance perfectly
English — but accoutred in the dress of the national
guardy with a huge grenadier cap upon his head.
Madame saw my embarrassment : laughed : and in two
minutes her husband knew the purport of my visit.
He began by expressing his dislike of the military
garb : but admitted the absolute necessity of adopting
snch a measure as that of embodying a national guard.

Soyez le bien venu : Ma foi, je ne suis que trop sensible.
Monsieur, de Thonneur que vous me faites — vA que
vons 6tes antiquaire typographique, et que vous
avez public des ouvrages relatife k notre art. Mais
oe n*est pas ici qu'il fsmt en chercher de belles
^preuves. Cest k Paris."

I parried this delicate thrust by observing that I was
weil acquainted with the fine productions of JMdot —
and had also. seen the less aspiring ones of himself— of
which indeed I had reason to think his townsmen
might be proud. This I spoke with the utmost
smcerity. But you are printer to his Grace the
Archbishop !" " Yes, Sir." " I hope he is a patron

133

BOUEN.

the art, as well as a Cardinal of the see of Romer
M. M^gard hesitated. But think of the .eodefflas-
tical patrons of typography, of old. Think of the'Cardi-
nals Bessarion, Campanus,and of the Bishop of Aleria.**
C'est bien vrai. Monsieur, mais rAreh^ydque de
Rouen n*est ni le Cardinal Bessarion ni rEv^qne
d*A16rie — ^replied M. M^gard with equal promptitude
and dexterity. In short, I learnt that M. M£gacd had
seen his patron but once ; at which interview it
should seem that he had experienced ten times the
reserve and formality which were ever displayed
by the Popes Paul II. and Sixtus IV. towards Sweyn-
heym and Pannartz, and John Philip de Lignamine.
I then bethou^t me of the grosse machine de
chair*' of the Abb6 T.* My first visit concluded
with two elegant little book-presents, on the part of
M. M^gard— one being Heures de Rouen^ it Fusage
du Diocise, 1814, 12mo. and the other Eirennes nxm-
veUes commodes et utileSy 1815, 12mo.-^the former
bound in green morocco; and the latter in calf, with
gilt leaves, but printed on a sort of apricot-tinted paper
— producing no unpleasing effect. Both are exceed-^
ingly well executed ; and which our Bensley or Buhner
might own without the least apricot-blush upon their
cheek. My visits to M. M6gard were rather frequents
He has a son at the College Royale, or Lyc^, whither
I accompanied him, one Sunday morning, and took tte
church of that establishment in the way. It is built
entirely in the Italian style of ai'chitecture : is exceed-
ingly spacious: has a fine organ, and is numerously
attended. The pictures I saw in it, although by no

• See page 68.

ROUEN.

1S3

means of first-rate merits quite convince me that it is
in cfanrehes of Roman^ and not of Crothic architecture^
that paintings produce the most harmonious effect.
Hiis college and church form a noble establishment^
atuated in one of the most commanding eminences of
the town. From some parts of it, the flying buttresses
d the nave of the Abbey of St. Ouen, with the Seine at
a short distance, surmounted by the hills and woods
of Canteleu as a back ground, are seen in the mc^st
gloriously picturesque manner.

But the printer who does the most business — or
rather whose business lies in the lower department
of the art, in brining forth what our friend B. usually
calls chap books — is Lecrbne Labbey — imprimeur-
l^aire et marchand de papiers. The very title im-
ports a sort of Dan Newberry's repository. I believe
however that Lecr6ne Labbey's business is much dimi-
nished. He once lived in the Rue de la Qrosse^
Horloge, No. 12 : but at present carries on trade in
one of the out-skirting streets of the town. I was
told that the premises he now occupies were once an old
church or monastery, and that a thousand fluttering
sheets were now suspended where formerly was seen
the solemn procession of silken banners^ with religious
emblems emblazoned in colours of all hues. I called
however at the old shop, and supplied myself with
a dingy copy of the Catalogue de la Bihliothique
Bleue* — ^from which catalogue however I could pur-

* Catalogue de la BibUotheque Bletie qui se trouve chez LecrAie-
Labbof, ImpftmeuT'^Libravre et Marchand de Papiers, ruedela Groue
Hwrloge, No. l^, d Rouen, Such is the title. I select a few of the

134

BOUEN.

chase but little: as the greater part of the older books^
several of the Caxtanian stamp, had taken their de-
more curiouB works^ desiderated more particularly by the Roxburghen,
and by collectors of our ancient literature. It will be seen that^ what
was popular in Caxton*stime^ is yet sought after at the openhig of the
xixth century.

The following at 4 liv. 16 sous the dozen:

Calendrier du Berger, fig. (Our old Shepherd's Calendar: see
Typog, Aniiq. vol. ii. p. 596.) Gallien Restaur^, fig. Huan de Bor-
deaux, premier et seconde parties. Les quatre FiU Aynum, Wood
cut frontispiece opposite the title-page: pp. 152^ large 8vo. No&$,
d 16 feuilles, Valentin et Orson. I purchased a copy of this edition^
as well as of The Four Sons of Aymon*' just noticed. It is a laige^
and closely printed octavo volume of 166 pages.

When we consider that a dozen of ^ch books as these may be had
for about 4s, English^ one cannot help contrasting it with the
very dear terms upon which a similar set of books would be purchased
in our own country. I apprehend that a volume^ like either of
those here last noticed^ could not possibly be sold under 1«. 6d. :
thus raising the sum of a dozen copies to little short of that of
four times beyond what is given abroad. I proceed leisurely with
a few others at

Four livres 4 sous the dozen,

Conquites de Charlemagne — which I presume to be the Life of
Charlemain^ as originally printed in the xvth century, and fhnn
which our Caxton published his version : see Typ. Jniiq, vol. i. p. 265.

Cuisinier Eranfais. Marichal expert, nouveUe Edition, figures
neuves.

I obtained a copy of this latter work, which is a small, but full-
printed, octavo of 153 pages. The figures" are sufficiently mise-
rable; but I could not help smiling to observe, with all the veterinary
quackery of the present day, a few of the old maxims of Dame Juliana
Bemers* Book of Hunting, &c. engrafted upon the text of this woik.
Thus, at page 11 we read :

HOUEN.

135

parti»re8. It was from this Cataiogae that I learnt
the precise character of the works destined for vulgar
reading, and irom hence inferred, what I stated to
yon a little time ago, that Romances, Randelays, and
cliivalroas stories, are yet read with pleasure, if not
wit haviditf, by the good people of France. It is, in
short, from this lower, or lowest species of literature—

De$ marqim que dokmU avoir le$ bans Chevaux.

Si ta max bon Gheral, qni longnement te serve,
Fkcnds mr^oiit k bnm bai, et Boignenx k conaem;
Le grison n'est mauvaisi maU on r^te beau
Le cheval quand il est de toutes parts moreao.
Si pour les tiens et toi tu veuz avoir monture,
Choisis sur-tout le blaoc, car longnement 11 dun.

Le cheval doit avoir des marques distingudes^ tant pour la bont^
qne poor la beauts. II doit tenir de la Femme, du Boeof, du Renard^
etdu Cerf.

De la Femme. Qa*il soit doux au montoir> beau de devant^ et belk
cbevelure de icrin.

Dm Bctuf. Qu'il ait les yeux beaux et gros^ Tenoolure belle^ et qu*il
«oit Inen relev^.

JDu Renard. Qu*il ait beau trot^ les oreilles petites et belles^ la
^ueae grande et toussue.

Dm Cerf. Qa*il ait les jambes s^ches^ qu*il soit bien relev^ du
Levant, qa*il ait la t^ s^che.

Consult Tifpog. Jniiq. vol. ii. p. 55-9^ fbr something like a similar
description in the work of Daub Juliana Bebners. This book has
some wretched wood cuts in the first part. The second part exhibits,
in the title page, the dead stag, with his heels upwards, fisistened
^ a pole — as we see it in some of the more ancient works upon
hundng. This second part is devoted to Phisieurs Recettes,
Apptoov^es du Sienr d L^Esphiey, Gentilhonmie P^rigourdin, pour
tovles les maladies et accidens qm arrivent aux Chevaux.*' This
second part is composed of 76 pages : the first, of SO.
VOL. I. I

136

ROUEN.

if it must be so designated— that we gatlier the real
genius^ or mental character, of the wdinary classes of
society. I do assure you that some of these chap
publications are singularly droll and curious. Even
the very rudiments of learning, or the mere alphabet*
book, meets the eye in a very imponng manner. Let
me send you the following specimen, being the first
page of a little reli^ous manual, of whidi the press
of M. M^gard has not disdained to throw off a few
copies UPON VELLUM. You will observe from hence
how carefully, and at what a tender age, the forms of
the Roman Catholic religion are impressed upon the
minds of youth. No child ever enters a place of wor-
ship without making the form of a cross upon his
breast — ^which custom, as you will observe by the red
cross in the specimen here sent, he has been taught in
the very elements of his education. In other respects,
there i^ little difference in the formularies, or elemen-
tary treatises, of both countries.

Chap books at 3 livres 1^ sous the dozen.

Ancien Testament, Aventurier Buscon. Figures de la Bible. Grande
Danse Macabre, Jig, (From the celebrated old work under that name.)
Histoire de Fortunatus. Palais des Curteux, Recueil de Chantons.

At S livres the dozen.

Les Loisirs des jolies Femmes, ou Recueil d^ariettes nouvelles. Pro —
ph^ties de Moult, edit, ample. LAmant de J4sus, Doctrinal de 8a-^
pience. (Caxton's ordinal: see Typ. Antiq, vol. i. p. 266.) PurgaMr^
de St, Patrice, fig. Recueil de Chansons, &c. &c. &c. The Purgatorsr
of St. Patrick was out of print. I sought for it every where^ in vain :
but they endeavoured to console me by the assurance that a new, and
improved edition had been long in contemplation.

BOUEN.

137

In nomine Patris, & Filii,
& Ipiritus fancti. Amen.

• .^^^ A a b c d

efghik
^^jT^B 1 m n o p

T^^^^ r q r f s t u

V X y z &
a e 1 o u m n ft ct fi fi

fl jQ ffl ffi ffi « oe.
L'Oraifon Dominicale.

A ter nofter ,

tur

qui
lis

es m coe-
fanctifice-
nomen tuum ,

Love, Marriage, and Confession, are fertile themes
for dissemination by means of these little farthing
chap books. Whether such fugitive and superficial
pieces ever find their way into the boudoirs of respecta-
ble families^ I will not^ as a traveller^ have the teme-
rity to affirm : but that they are familiar to the middling
and lower orders of society, is palpable from almost
every lounge which you take in the streets. Yonder
sits a fille de chambre, after her work is done. She is

140

ROUEN.

decorous manual of instruction. By no means; for
read the very devout Litanies and Prayer with "which it

6. Heureiix sont lea Amans riches^ car 1 amour aime la d^pense.

7. Heureux sont les Amans saoB rivaux^ car ils poasedent seuls lea
bomies graces de leurs Maitresses.

Oraison trh-utile d une fille qui 44nre 4tre pourtfue eamme UfanU du

Sacrement de Manage,

Mon Dieu^ qui avez cr6d le genre hmnain pour benir votre nom
pdorable, & qui lui avez donn^ par la source f^conde du sacrement de
Manage^ une voie legitime pour ^teindre le feu de la concupiscence^
& en m^me temps multiplier; je vous addresse mes voeux du plus
profond de mon coeurs, afin qu'il vous plaise me remplir d'une vertu
vivifiante, qui me rende capable de produire du fruit de Tunion con-
jugale, & me donner un Epoux qui ait toutes les quality n^cessaxres

pour s*acquitter dignement des voeux du Manage

• C*est> mon Dieu^ ce

que je vous demande de toute mon ame avec les demi^res instances ^
regardez done en pitid votre trfes humble servante N.

It is observable, from hence> how little the French character has
altered. In the copper plates to the better editions of their pas-
toral and love poets^ upwards of a century ago^ we o'bserve young'
ladies and young gentlemen, of fourteen and twelve years^ with their
brows encircled by wreaths of flowers^ reclining upon grass banks^ and
enacting the parts of passionate lovers. The same thing is observed io
their modem productions. I now proceed^ in the second place^ to a
specimen or two from the Cat^cJunne ^ V Usage des Grandes FUlespour
itre marines; Ensemble la maniere dattirer les Amans, Par Demandes
is Expenses, A Rouen chez Lecr^e-Labbey, &c.

Demande. Quel est le Sacrement le plus n^cessaire aux graodes Filles }

R^onse. C'est le Manage.

D. A quel dge doit on marier les Filles ?

R. Selon comme elles sont belles.

D. Les plus belles^ k quel ftge faut-il les marier }

R. C*est ordinairement k seize & dix huit ans.

ROUEN.

141

lUmclades^ and which I here send — for your gratifica-
tion^ however transient. I admit that it is a strange
mixture of the simple and serious.

LITANIES

Pour Umtes le» BIU» qui dhureni entrer em manage.

Kyriey je voudrois^

Christe^ 6tre marine.

Kyrie^ je prie tous les Saints^

Chriate, que ce soit demain.

Saiote Marie, tout le Monde se marie.

Saint Joseph, que vous al-je £ut?

Saint Nicolas, ne m^oubUex pas.
. Saint M^rie, que j*aie un bon mari.

Saini Matthieu, qu*ilcraigne Dieu.
. Saint Jean, qu'il m'aime tendrement.

Saint Bruno, qu'il soit joli & beau.
, Saint Francois, qu'il me soit fidele.
. Saint Andr^, qu*il soit k mon gr6.

Saint Didier, qu*il aime k trayaiUer.
. Saint Honor^, qu*il n'aime pas k jouer.
. Saint S^verin, qu*il n'aime pas le vin.

Saint Clement qu*il soit diligent.

Saint Sauveur, qu'il ait bon coeur.

Saint Nicaise, que je sois a mon aise.
. Saint Josse, qu'il me donne un carosse.
. Saint Boni£ftce, que mon mariage se fisisse..
. Saint Augustin, d^ demain matin.

OaAisoN.

Seigneur, qui ayez fbnn^ Adam de la terre, and qui lui avez donn^
Ere pour sa compagne ; envoyez-moi, s'il vous plait, un bon mari
pour oompagnon, non pour la volupt^, mais pour vous honorer & avoir
dea en&nts qui vous b^nissent. Ainsi soit il.

D. Pourquoi k cet ftge }

R. De peur qu'il n'arrive quelque inconvenient k leur honneur.
' D. Mais celles qui ne sont pas belles, k quel ftge feut-il done les
marier?

143

ROUEN.

Amoi^ the books of this class, before allucled to,
I purchased a singularly amusing little mairaal called

R. Au8sit6t que les Gardens les demandent> pour ne pas perdre la
bonne occasion.

D. Quand une FQle n*a point d'Amant^ comment iaat-il £ure poor
en avoir?

R. II y a plusieurs moyens pour 8*en procurer.
D. Quels sont ces moyens ?

£. Premi^rement^ il £Eiut avoir la sagesse & la modestie; se-
condement^ ^tre bonne m^nag^re> bien actionn^e & son oceupatkm k
son travail ; troisi^mement^ 6tre bien propre dans ses habilleiiieiits,
dans son linge & dans sa chambre ; quatri^mement> ne pas a'aviser
de porter plus que son itai ne permet, car c*est le moyen de lesren-
voyer, plut6t que de les attirer.

D. Quand une Ulle a un Amant bien k son gi^^ comment doit-elle
fure> peur de le perdre ?

R. n faut Taimer d'un amour honn^> qui est le v&itable moyen
de le conserver; il font aussi ^viter envers lui les paroles hardies & pea
respectueuses, peur de le f&cher ; se garder bien d'^couter les mauvais
discours, tant d*un c6t^ que de I'autre 5 il faut aussi < toigonrs toe de
bonne humeur^ principalement devant lui; ne point lui causer de la
jalousie en fEusant trop d'accueil aux autres.

D. Quand une Fille veut aller k la promenade, comment dmt^lle se
comporter avec son Amant & avec ceux de la compagnie ?

R. Elle doit premi^rement en demander permission k son pere, H sa
m^re ou k ses sup^rieurs, & leur dire que c*est pour aller en tel en-
droit. II faut aussi qu'elle se comporte en la compagnie de laqaelle
est son Amant, avec beaucoup de modestie

D. Les Dimancbes et les F^tes, quand une Fille garde la maison
pendant la grand*-Messe ou les V^pres, & que son Amant la vient yoir^
conmient doit-elle se comporter?

R. Avec une grande modestie & retenue, faisant son manage avec
beaucoup d'action, sans s'amuser k badiner avec son Amant, ii cause
des mauvaises suites qui pourroient en provenir. II fieiut aussi lui re-
montrer qu'il auroit €t6 plus k propos d'etre k la giand'-Mwe ou L
V^pres, & qu*il seroit Uen venu k une autre, le tout avec tenmes &.pa-
roles de douceur. ,

BOUEN.

143

La Confession de ia Bonne Femme."^ It is really BOt
^vested of merit. Whether however it may not have

D. Qoand une Fille est demand^ en manage par un Garcon qui est
1»en li son gr^, que doit elle r^pondre ?

R. n fout d'abord qu'elle ^se semblant d'etre un peu surprise, ft
i^pondre qu*elle ne pent pas croire qu'un Garcon de son m^rite & de
son moyen, youltlt avoir en manage une aussi simple Fille comme elle.

D. Si TAmant persiste, lui faisant des protestations d'amiti^, ou lui
disant par exemple : Ce seroit tout mon d^ir, si je pouvois poss^er
I'ami^ d'une aimable personne comme vous, & je serois le plus con-
tent du monde. Si je ne craignois point de vous faire de la peine,
j*aiirois Thonneur d'en parler k M. votre Pere et k Madame votre

IL La Kile doit r^pondre ayec beaucoup de respect : Monsieur, si
TOUs avez Tamiti^ que vous dites avoir pour moi, ils ne seront pas
moins surpris que j*ai it6, parce qu'ils ne s*attendent, pas d'avoir cet
avantage.

Si Tamant a Pere ou Mere, il doit leuren parler, leur t^moigner son
dessein, en leur disant : Si c'^toit votre volont^ comme c*est lamienne,
je Bouhaiterois avoir en manage une telle, qui est une ti^-honn6te
FiOe.

Mbn FilSj j'ai trouv^ que vous avez ti^s-bien choisi, il £Eiut voir au
phit6tsi nous pourrons avoir cet avantage.

Le Pere & la Mere du Garcon parlant au Pere & k la Mere de la
FiUe, api^s avoir fait le salut & lea complimens ordinaires, pourront
dire: Monsieur & Madame, nous avons appris avec bien du plaisir
qoL li J avoit une parfaite amiti6 entre Mademoiselle votre Fille &
noire Garcon ; c*est ce qui nous oblige ^ vous la demander en mariage
pour notre FIls, si vous nous Taccordez, nous serous parfiedtement con-
%6oa«

Monsieur & Madame, nous sommes charm^s de l*honneur que vous
II0II8 ikites axgourd*hui 5 pour vous faire voir que nous avons une
parfaite amiti^ pour vous & pour toute votre aimable famille, nous
Y(his la promettons de bon coeur.

Monsieur & Madame, nous sommes entibrement satisfaits} c'est ^
vtmh, s'il vous plait, k donner jour pour passer le contrat.

Mon^euTj k jour de votre commoditi^ sera le n6tre.

144

HOUEN.

been written, during the Revolution, with a view to
ridicule the practice of auricular confession which yet
obtmns throughout France, I cannot take upon me
to pronounce ; but there are undoubtedly some por-
tions of it which seem so obviously to satirise tUs
practic, that one can hardly help drawing a conclu-
sion in the aflGirmative. On the other hand it may
perhaps be inferred, with greater probability, that it is
intended to shew wilh what extreme fecility a system *
of self-deception may be maintained. Referring how-
ever to the little manual in question, it is to be ob-
served that the book has neither imprint nor date.
Among the various choice morceaus which it con-
tains, take the following exti*acts-— exemplificatory
of a woman's evading the main points of confession —
and judge yourself of the accuracy, or otherwise, of my
opinion.

C. Ne voulez vous pas me r^pondre ; en un mot> combien y a-t-il
de temps que vous ne vous 6tes confess^ ?

P. II y a un niois tout juste, car c*6toit le quatri^e jour du mob
pass6, & nous sommes au cinqui^me du mois courant; or comptez,
mon pfere, & vous trouverez justement que

C. C*est asisez, ne parlez point tant, & dites moi en peu de mots tos
p^h^.

Elle raconte les p^chis d^autrui.

La P4nitente, J*ai un enfant qui est le plus m6chant gar^on que
vous ayez jamais vu, il jure, bat sa soeur, il fuit T^cole, d^robe tout ce
qu*il pent pour jouer ; il suit de m^chans i^pons : Fautre jour en cou-
rant il perdit son chapeau. £nfin, c'est un mdchant gar^n, je veux
vous Tamener afin que vous me Tendoctriniez un peu 8*il vous plait.

C. Dites-moi vos p^ch^?

P. Mais, mon p^re, j*ai une fille qui est encore piie, je ne la penx
faire lever le matin, je Tappelle cent fois : Marguerite : plait-il ma Mere?
Ihe-ioi promptement et descend* , va%$. Elle ne booge pas. Si tu

ROUEN-

145

vient mamtenant, tu seraa hattue. Elle 8*en moque : quand je Ten-
voie k la VlSiB, je lui dis^ retieru promptetnent, ne Vamitse pas, Ce-
pendant^ die 8*aiT^ k toutes les portes comme Vkne d*iin meiiDier,
die babOle avec tous oeux qu*elle rencontre > & quand elle me Mi cela>
je la bats : ne fais-je pas bien^ mon p^re?

C. Dites-moi vos p^h^ et non pas ceux de vos enfians?
P. n se trouve> mon p^re^ que nous avons dans notre rue une voisine
qui est la phis m^chante de toutes les femmes, elle jure, elle querelle
tous ceux qui passent, personne ne la pent souffrir, ni son man, ni ses
enlkDS, &bien sonvent elle s*enivre, & tous me dites, mon pfere quelle

eatoeUe-lk? c'est

C. Ah gardez-vous bien de la nommer, car k la confession il ne
fimt jamais &ir connoitre les personues dont vous d^darez les
p^chds.

P. C*est elle qui vient se confesser api^ moi, grondez-la bien, car
TOUS ne lui en sauriez trop dire.

C. Taisez-vous done, & ne parlez que de vos p^ch€s, non pas de
oeux des autres.

EUe 9' accuse de ce qui n*est point pdch4.

Pemiente, — Ah ! mon p^re, j*ai fait un grand p^h^, ah! le grand
p6di^, h£las je serai damn6e, quoique mon confesseur m'ait d^fendu de
le dire j'amais, n^anmoins mon p^re je vais tous le declarer.

C. Ne le dites point puisque votre confesseur vous Fa defendu, je ne
Teux point I'entendre.

P. Ah! nimporte; je veux vous le dire, c*est un trop grand p^h6 :
J'ai battu ma m^re.

C. Vous avez battu votre mere ! Ah ! mis^rablej c*est un cas r^rv6
& un crime qui m^rite la potence. £t quand I'avez-vous battue?

P. Quand j'^tois petite de r%e de quatre ans.

C. Ah ! simple, ne sai^-vous pas que tout ce que les enfians font
avant Tftge de raison qui est environ Tftge de sept ans, ne sauroit ^tre
un y€ch6,

P. J'ai d^sir^ la mort dans Fimpatience.

C. Mais auriez-vous \oulu ^trc morte tout de bon !

P. O que nenni : je Vai d^sir^e k mon enfant.

C. Auriez-vous voulu qu'il lui fdi arriv6e quelque mal?

P. Ah! que Dieu Ten preserve.

146 BOX7EN.

C. Fourquoi dites-TOus done cela ?
P. Je me suis fiSLehe^ du bien d*autnii.

C. Est-ee par envie que vous avez m afflig^ que lea antres eoBieiit

du bien ?

P. Non: mais j*auix>is souhait^ que le bon Dieu m*ea e<it donnd an-
tant. Je me suis i^jouie de la mort d*un fils que j'avois^ qui
muet^ aveugle & paitdytique.

C. Fourquoi vous en ^tes-vous rejouie } est-ee paroe que toub hd
Touliez du mal ?

P. Non, mais parce que je me voyois d^livx^ d*une grande peine
qu*il nous donnoit k tons.
C. Cela n*est pas un p^h^.

P. Je me suis i^jouie de la mort de mon oncle, qui m*a laiss^ son
heritage.

C. Vous ^tes-TOus rdjouie de sa mort ou seulement d*aTOir, eu ton
heritage?

P. Ce n'estque d'avoir eu son heritage.
C. Cela n*est pas aussi p^ch^.

P. J*aijug6 t^m^rairement d*un gar^on & d'une fiUe que j'ai vu en
cachette se comporter mal.

C. Cela n*est pas un p^h^ ni un jugement t^oidraire^ qoand ils
YOU8 donnent un juste siget de juger mal d*eax^ & troua ^p66benm si
vous jugiez qu'ils font bien.

P. J'ai travaill^ les F^es & les Dimanches.

C. Quel travail avez- vous ?

P. J*ai attach^ avec un pcnnt d'aguille le colet au pouipoint de mon
enfant.

C. Cela n'est rien.
P. J*aijur6Dieu.

C. Vous avez jur^ Dieu^ voilk qui est fort scandaleux k une fbnme ;
& comment disiez-vous? ^
P. JedisoisMafoi.

C. Cda ne s'appelle pas jurer Dieu> mais seulement jurer sa foi, et
quoiqu*il ne le faille jamais dire ce n'est pas toujours un p6di€,
P. J*ai blasph^m^.
C. Comment disiez-vous?
P. Je disois Chienne k ma vache ! !

BOUfiN.

147

Of R0MANCB89 1 bought terribly coarse editions of
Mmm de BaurdeauSD, Falentin et Orson^ and the Fowr
Sms of Aymon. However^ I knew they would be ac-
eq>tad[>let08omeof our curious friends ; thoughlam well
aware that Palmbrin would not exchange his Elnglish
iiRST EDITION of the secofid of these Romances for a
•hip-load of such gipsey copies as are to be sold" at
Licr£ne-Labbey*s. Upon the whole^ our own presses,
even in country-towns, put forth better impressions of
popular tales: but what is novel, especially in a fo-
fcign land^ is generally acceptable ; and I am almost
IttAiamed to think how many sous, or rather francs^ I
iMure expended upon the Bibliothique Bleue ! There
is one thing, my dear friend, which I must frankly de-
dare to you as entitled to distinct notice and especial
ooilmiendation. It is — the method of teaching ca-
techisms'* of a different and higher order — I mean the
CHURCH CATECHISMS. Both the Cathedral and the
Abbey of St. Ouen have numerous side chapels. Within
these side chapels are collected, on stated days of the
week, the young of both sexes. They are arranged in
a circle. A priest, in his white robes, is seated, or
Stands, in the centre of them. He examines, ques-
tions^ corrects, or commends, as the opportunity calls
for. His manner is winning and persuasive. His
action is admirable. The lads shew him great respect,
and are rarely rude or seen to laugh. Those who an-
swer well, and pay the greater attention, receive, with
words of commendation, gentle {mts upon the head —
and I could not but consider the blush, with which
this mark of favour was usually received, as so many
presages of future excellence in the youth. I once

146

BOUEN.

witnessed a most determined catechetical lectnre of
^Is ; who might be called, in the language of their
matrimonial catechism, des grandes filles*** It was
on an evening in the Chapel of My Lady in St. Oaen*s
Abbey, that this examination took place. Two el-
derly priests attended. The responses of the fe-
males were as quick as they were correct; the eye
being always invariably fixed upon the pavement^
accompanied with a gravity and even piety of expres-
sion. A large group of mothers, with sundry spec-
tators, were in attendance, — and perceiving we were
English, both teachers and pupils seemed to exert
themselves with greater energy. At length a question
was put, to which a supposed incorrect response was
given. It was repeated, and the same answer fol-
lowed. The priest hesitated : something like vexation
was kindling in his cheek, while the utmost calmness
and confidence seemed to mark the countenance of the
examinant. The attendant mothers were struck with
surprise. A silence for one minute ensued. The ques-
tion related to the Holy Spirit.'" The priest gently
approached the girl, and softly articulated — " Mais,
ma ch^re considerez un pen,** — and repeated the ques-
tion. Mon pere, (yet more softly, rejoined the pupil)
j'ai bien consider^e, et je crois que c*est comme je vous
Tai d^j^ dit.*" The Priest crossed his hands upon his
breast. . .brought down his eye-brows in a thinking
mood... and turning quickly round to the girl,
addressed her in the most affectionate tone of voice —
Ma petite, — tu as bien dit ; et j'avois tort/' I shall
never forget the expression of the girl. She curtsied,

ROUEN.

149

Uushed • • • and with eyes^ from which tears seemed
ready to start, surveyed the circle of spectators...
caught the approving glance of her mother, and snnk
trimnphantly upon her chmr-^with the united admira-
tiim of teachers, companions, parents and spectators !
The whole was conducted with the most perfect pro-
priety ; and the pastors did not withdraw till they
were fiurly exhausted. Candour obliges one to confess
that this reciprocity of zeal, on the part of master and
papil, is equally creditable to both parties — and espe-
cially serviceable to the cause of religion and morahty.
Between compUns and vespers, on the Sabbath, it is
delightful to observe this attention to the performance
of clerical duties.

We approach by degrees the book-themb in all its
plenitude of discussion. Of Booksellers^ the principal
IB the house of Frere, situated on the Quai de Parisy
no. 70. Whether the father be living, I have forgotten
to enquire ; but if civility, quickness, and intelligence
be the chief requisite of a bibliopolist, the young Frere
stands not in need of parental aid for the prosperity of
hia business. His sisters are also very active in their se-
veral capacities. The premises, although not large, are
sufficiently commodious. The more respectable literati
q£ Rouen come to read, to lounge, and to gossip in the
upper room : in the manner of our own literati at Mr.
Murray's more costly suite of apartments in Albemarle
Street. From one comer of this upper room, I wa^
surprised and delighted, on my first entrance, by the
notes of a warbling canary. This bird is taught to sing
opera and concerto airs — and at particular periods

150

't will discourse most eloquent muSc." The efitet is
not unpleasing^ especially as the soundis infitiitefy softer
and mellower than the generally shrill and penetrating
notes of that bird: and, peradventure, occasionally
somewhat more gratefill than the potes oi the said
loun^ng literati ! From the windows of this room you
have also a good view of the bustle of the quay, and
of the movements which take place on the river Seine ;
wiiiie, within, you may discoure with an ancient white-
crossed Bourbonist, a suppressed Buonap^n-tist, an
abb^, a chevalier, a barrister, a critic, or a student.
Here I met the amiable and well-informed Monsieur
Adam ; a gentleman, whose kindness and pleasing con-
versation only makes me regret that the period is fast
approaching when I am probably to take leave of him
forever.

• Of the remaining booksellers in our way, I need only
notice Le Maitre and Le Roux. The former, who has
A very good stock of literary publications, lived in the
Place St. Ouen . . and it was here that I hunted down
the fine copy of the first edition of the French version
of the New Testament (printed at Lyons about the
year 1478), of which (as you may remember)^ I had
got scent, at a stall, close to the portal of St. Machm.
You may be sure that I scrupled not to give fifteen
francs for this desirable copy — ^in its ancient monastic
binding. I bought here a French version of the first
volume only of Strutfs Manners and Customs^ Sfc.
with a great number of the plates, for dght firanCs :
and a copy of the Bihliothkque Pran^mse of Goujet

* See p. 81, ante.

BOUEN.

151

for twenty-five francs. This latter has been sold for
£4. 4s. in our own country ; but to my joy I have found
that it might be obtained for one half that sum. Let me
here make honourable mention of the kind offices of
Monsieur Langchampy who volunteered his friendly
services in walking over half the town with me, to shew
me what he justly considered as the most worthy of
observation* It is impossible for a generous mind to
refose its testimony to the ever prompt kindness of a
well-bred Frenchman, in rendering you all the services
in his power. Enquire the way, — and you have not
<mly a finger quickly pointing to it, but the owner of
the finger must also put himself in motion to accom-
pany you a short distance upon the route, and that
too uncovered ! Mais, Monsieur, mettez votre cha-
peau. . je vous en prie . . mille pardons.** Monsieur ne
dites pas un seul mot . . pour mon chapeau^ qu*il reste
k 8on aise."

Upon the whole, the soil of Rouen is not at present
fertile in the curious lore of antiquity ; — ^however it
might have once yielded a rich harvest from the pro-
lific seeds sown by Morin, Tailleur, and Valentin. I
gtaped about in all directions ; and to an hundred
earnest enquiries for something curious, or rare, or
ancient, was answered that I ought to have been
there in the year 1814, when Paris was first taken
possession of by the Allies — that my countrymen had
preceded me, and had left nothing for future gleaners.
I bought however of Lemaitre the last unsold copy,
probably in Rouen, as well as in his own warehouse, of
Pammerai/e's History of the Abbey of St. Ouen, to

VOL I. K

153

ROUEN.

which I have so frequently alluded, and for which I was
glad to give a dozen francs.

I find I cannot include the whole of my book-theme
in this my intended last Rouen dispatch — as I have
one or two private collectors to notice ; and as the ac-
count of the Public Library and Picture Gallery y &c*
must be considered at least worthy of a separate
epistle. Among these book-collectors^ or antiquaries^
let me speak with becoming praise of the amiable and
accomplished M. Augusts Le Pbbvost — who is
considered, by competent judges, to be the best anti-
quary in Rouen.* Mr. Dawson Turner, (a name, in

* the best Antiquary tn RouenJ] — ^This gentleman is a belles-lettres
Antiquary of the highest order. His " Mdmoire faisant suite li 1*E8-
sai sur les Romans historiques du moyen lige** may teach modem
Normans not to despair when death shall have laid low their present
oracle the Abbb* db la Rub. This m^moire^ printed in the Transact
tions of the Rouen Society fur 1816^ p. 117-141^ is written in excel-
' lent taste and with sound critical acumen. It is followed by the same
gentleman's " remarks upon the abbey church of St. Ouen*' — and
upon Uie drawings relating to its ancient construction.** At page
151^ M. Le Prevost speaks^ in a dignified style of serarity^ of the de-
struction of ancient monuments of art — Encore quelques annte,
diront-ilSy (observes he) et k Texception d*un petit nombre d*6difioe8
d'une utility pressante et imm^diate^ nous aurons vu disparaitre tout
ce qu*ont ^lev^ nos anc^tres : — ces iglisea, ces convents^ ces pa]ais>
ces chateaux^ toutes ces constructions consacr^es k la religion^ li la
repr^ntation ou k Futility publique. Une population li-la-fbis su-
perbe et frivole^ d^pensi^re et mesquine, a pris la place de ces sages
et pieuses generations, aust^res et ^conomes dans les details habitoels de
la Tie privee, mais si magnifiques dans les grandes occasions^ et qui
b£itissaient comme les Romains pour retemite^** p. 151. This is
eloquent, but it is also just. M. Le Prevost was one in the cpnmus-
sion with Messrs. Gourdin, Descamps, de Bois-H^bert^ Vauquelin,

ROUEN.

153

in our own country synonymous with all that is libe-
ral and enlightened in matters of yirti!l) was so oblig-
ing as to give me a letter of introduction to him.
Unluckily he has been unavoidably absent during half
the time of my stay here. M. Le Prevost had reason
to exult in shewing me the following books.

Romances Nvevamente sacados de Hhstorias anti-
guas de la Cronica de Espana compuestos par Loren^
de Sepulueda, &c. en Anvers^ 1566. 1 2mo.

Another edition^ 1580. 12mo.

For the first, the fortunate owner gave four sons —
and for the second, six sous only — at Rouen.

Cancionero General, 1573. 8vo. The table MS. : but
bought at the sale of La Serna Santander's library for
40 francs only.

Leonis Papce SermoneSy 1470 : printed by Sweyn-
heym and Pannartz, folio. A cropt and rather indiffe-
rent copy.

Chrysostomi Sermones, &c. 1470 : printed in the
Eusebian monastery. A clean and sound copy ; ex-
hibiting the peculiarity which is mentioned in a note
(vol. i. p. 409) in the Bibliographical Decameron.

Missale Rothomagense, 1499, folio. Without the
device in front. A fine copy : but with two leaves MS.

A beautiful Missal hy Pigouchet upon vellum, in
8vo. in the original binding.

M. Le Prevost very justly discredits any remains
of Roman masonry at Rouen ; but he will not be dis-

and D^soria, to give an accouDt of the more precious relics of art yet
existing in the Abbey Church of St. Ouen— of which the destruc-
tion 18 ALREADY BEGUN !

154

ROUEN.

pleased to see that the only existmg relics of the castle
or town walls^ have been copied by the pencil of a
late travelling friend. What you here bdiold is pro-
bably of the fourteenth century.

EOUEN.

155

The next book-collector in commendation of wliom
I am bound to speak^ is Monsieur Duputel ; a
member, as well as M. Le Prevost, of the Academy of
Belles-Lettres at Rouen. The Abb6 Turquier conducted
me thither ; and I found, in the owner of a choice col-
lection of books, a well-bred gentleman and a most
hearty bibliomaniac. He has comparatively a small
library ; but, withal, some very curious, scarce, and
interesting volumes. M. Duputel is smitten with that
amiable and enviable passion, — ^the love of printing for
prwate distribution — thus meriting to become a sort of
Rcncburglie Associate. He was so good as to beg my
acceptance of the nouvelle Edition" of his Bagatelles
PoMqueSy* printed in an octavo volume of about 112
pages^ at Rouen, in 1816. I took it home and quickly
namined its contents. An advertisement^ foUomng
the title page, tells us that of this new edition, which
is notprinted for sale, there are only eighty copies
F— and tiMiifr copies, which have not the signa-
of the author subjoined, must be considered as
iterfcits/' Wtiether any speculator has had the
ibood to counterfeit, or to put forth a spurious
of, these rhymes, I have never had an opportu-
certmniip. Perhaps the attempt may not
ether taniL However, I am willing that M.
lie] «ihould speak for himself, — ^which I think he
; wmewhat funettily in the following ori^nal lines.

Jtofe ei le Ruisieau.

Une Rose un jour se mimit
Dans le crisul d*une onde claire ;

156 ROUEN.

Mais^ pendant qu*elle a'admirmit, —
Du bout de son aile Ugbre,

Zephir reffeuille Le Ruisaeau

Revolt sa fragile panire^

Et Tentratne au gr€ de son eau.

Tel est I'ordre de la nature,
ces agr^mens^
Dont aigourdliui vous semblez vaine^
S'^uleront avec le tems^
Qui^ dans sa course^ les entraine«

p. 10.

The version from the German fable^ and from our
Prior*s well-known beantiful little poem^ are certainly
very creditable to a muse which boasts only a trifling^
degree of inspiration. Receive them with courtesy.

Ma Solitude.

Loin des temp^tes du monde^
. Dans cet asile enchanteur^
Au sein d*une paix profbnde,
•Tai tiouv^ le vrai bonheur.

II fuit Tenceinte des viUes^
S^jour que les passions,
£n erreure toigours fertilesj
Remplissent d'illusions.

Leur s^dnisante imposture,
Voudrait en vain m*^louir j
Des bienfoits de la nature
Ici j'apprends k joulr.

Dans ces riaotes prairies,
Quand je yois declairsruisseaux

BOUEN.

Le long des rives fleuries
Roiiler leurs limpides taxsx,

Le seul destin que j'envie
Est de voir, comme leurs cours^
Paisiblement de ma vie
Couler les rapides jours.

Puisse TEcho solitaire
De ces tranquilles vallonSj
Modeste Andelle, se plaire
A r^pdter ses chansons !

p. 57.

La Guvrlande^
Traduction de V Anglais de Prior.

Pour omer de Chlo^ les cheveux ondoyans,
Parmi les fleurs nouvellement ^closes
J'avais choisi les lis les plus brillans,

Les oeillets les plus beaux, et les plus fraiches roses.

Ma Cblo^ sur son ^nt les plapa le matin :
Alors on vit c^der sans peine>
Leur vif ^clat k celui de son teint,
Leur doux parfum k ceux de son haldne.

De ses attraits ces fleurs paraissaient s'embellir,
£t sur ses blonds cheveux les bergers, les berg^res
Les voyaient se £&ner avec plus de plaisir
Qu*ils ne les voyaient naitre au milieu des parterres.

Mais, le soir, quand lem" sein fl^tri
Eat cess^ d^exhaler son odeur s^duisante,

EUe fixa, d*un r^ard attendri,
Cette guirlande^ h^las ! n'aguibres si brillante.

158

ROUEN.

Des larmes ausai-tdt coulent de ses beaux yeiuc.

Que d*^oquence dans ces larmes !
Jamais pour Texprimer^ le langage des dieox^
Tout sublime qu'il est^ n'aurait assez de charmes.

£n feignant d'ignorer ce tendre sentiment ;

Pourquoi/* lui dis-je^ 6 ma sensible amie^
Pourquoi verser des pleurs? et par quel changement
Abandonner ton ame k la melancbolie V*

Vois-tu comme ces fleurs languissent tristement
Me dit^ en soupirant^ ce moraliste aimabLe^
De leur fraicheur^ en un moment,
S'est ^clips^ le cbarme peu durable.

Tel est, b^ ! notre destin,
^* Fleur de beauts ressemble k celles des prairies ;
On les voit toutes deux naitre aveo le matin,
£t d^ le soir ^tre flaries.

Estelle bier encor brillait dans nos hameaux,
Et I'amour attirait les bergers sur ses traces %
De la mort, ai:yourd*hui> I'impitoyable faalx
" A moissonn^ sa jeunesse et ses graces.

" Soumise aux m^mes lois, peut-^tre que demain,
Comme elle aussi, Damon, j'aurai cess^ de vivre ....
Consacre dans tes vers la cause du chagrin
" Auquel ton amante se livre.*'

p. 92.

The last and not the least of book-collectors, which
I have had an opportunity of visiting, is Monsieur
RiAux ; of whose very choice collection I have indeed
already had occasion to make slight mention. With
respect to what may be called a Rouennoisb Li-
brary, that of M . Riaux is infinitely preferable to
any which I have seen ; although I am not sure whether
M. Le Prevost*s collection contain not nearly as many

ROUEN.

159

books. He promised me a list of his works relating
to the antiquities of Normandy in general, but I fear
I must leave this place without it. I shall not however
easily forget his fine copy of the Images de Philostraie,
(always a shewy book) formerly in the library of Db
Thou. M. Riaux is himself a man of first-rate book
enthusiasm ; and unites the avocations oi his business
with the gratification of his literary appetites, in a
manner which does him infinite honour. A city like
Rouen should have a host of such inhabitants : and
the government, when it begins to breathe a little from
recent embarrassments, will, I hope, cherish and sup-
port that finest of all patriotic feelings, — a desire to
preserve the relics, manners, and customs of past
AOBs. Normandy is fertile beyond conception in
objects which may gratify the most unbounded passion
in this pursuit. It is the country where formerly the
harp of the minstrel poured forth some of its sweetest
strains ; and the lay and the fabliaux of the xiith and
xiiith centuries, which delight us in the text of
Sainte Palaye, and in the versions of Way, owed their
existence to the combined spirit of chivalry and lite-
rature, which never slumbered upon the shores of Nor-
mandy ! But do not let me omit telling you of a very
singular character, a priest of the name of. . m • . . . who
lives in the vicinity of Rouen. He is the keenest of all
bibliomaniacal hunters ; and evinced, in a late acqui-
sition, the spring of a tiger with the eye of a lynx.
He bought at Rouen the rarest of all rare Mysteries,*
for a few sous. Within three weeks of the purchase,
I was told that Monsieur Van-Praet, made the irresis-

* Let bkuphemateurs du mm de Dteu."

ROUEN.

tible offer of 750 francs for the acquisition of it ! . . .
and it is now reposing upon the shelves of the royal
library. " Thinks I to myself—*' I will see this said
mystery when I reach Paris; but ere that event
take place, I have Cathedrals, and Libraries in abun-
dance to visit. Upon the whole, it may be safely
affirmed that accident only can present the most
diligent enquirer after old and curious books^ with
any thing in the shape of a satis£Eictory result from
his searches. Rouen has been thoroughly weeded:
or rather little better than weeds, in the charac-
ter of books, now present themselves to the eye of the
travelling collector. To be successful, you must be
stationary/ for a few months : as there is no time for
a temporary inhabitant to make experimental journeys
to neighbouring villages^ or to neighbouring private
collections. One more letter^ and then — ^fisu^ewell to
Rouen !

LETTER IX.

PHB PUBLIC LIBRARY, ACCOUNT OF SOME OF THE
MORE CURIOUS AND RARE MSS. AND PRINTED BOOKS.

The clock of the Cathedral has struck eleven, and it
lis high time to visit the Public Library. In other words,
iMs Public Library is open every day, with the excep-
fion of Thursday, from ten till two. M. Gourdin,
the principal librarian, is an intelligent and experienced
t>ibliographer ; to whom we are indebted for two good
treatises upon the famous Missal and Benedictiona-
riusy — ^the oldest and most curious of their illuminated
manuscripts. Of these, presently. M. Fossard is
the sub-librarian ; and M. Fossard shall always have
my best thanks and kindest reminiscences for the
obli^ng and even laborious manner in which he was
pleased to verify some readings and transcribe a
3ortion of a MS. of Robertus Montensis — to satisfy
mr fnend * * *. At present, M. Fossard has some-
rfaat to learn in his bibliographical calling; but an
arly period of life, and a willing, well-regulated, and
rell-educated mind can accomplish any thing. He is
. sprightly and pleasing young man; and facilitated my
esearches with unintermitting assiduity. He would
ill up the intervals of bibliographical gossip by expa-
iating, in raptures, upon the beautiul blue eyes of a
air English Lady, whom he once saw in the great

162

ROUEN.

library— looking at the huge folio Missal of wMch some
notice has been taken in the pages of a certain work
called the Bibliographical Decameron.* Of this
splendid volume, by and by.

Meanwhile it is necessary that you should know aU
about the scite upon which this respectable edifice
is built. Turn to one of my former letters, if you
biq[)pen not to have burnt it, and you will find mention
made of a certain ancient refectory running at right
angles with the north side of the Abbey of St. Ouep.
This was taken down ; and the present Hotel de
ViLLB built either upon the scite of, or contiguous to
it. The building is respectable from its size rather
than from its beauty. The offices of goyemment
occupy the ground and first floors^ and the Public
Gallery of Pictures, and Public Library, running in
parallel lines, fill the whole of the second or upper
floor. The staircases, leading to all the public depart-
ments, are airy and elegant ; especially that conduct-
ing to the Library and Picture Gallery. I was shewn,
as an unrivalled specimen of masonry, the flying sti(ir«
case to one of the government offices ; but observed
that we had two similar and rather superior specimens
— one at Somerset House, and the other at Drury-lam
Theatre. For a provincial town, the Library an/
Picture Gallery are two noble institutions. Of tl
pictures, seen at all times, without fee, by strange
I will only observe^ that, amidst a great deal of glar;
trash, sent thither from Paris to astonish the Rou
nois, I saw with great satis&ction a curious

♦ Sec Vol. I . p. clxxxiv.

ROUEN.

jiisbate containing the portraits of the chiefe of the
League — ^for which I learnt that one of the Princes of
the Blood was willing to give a considerable sum. There
IB also a good early picture or two, supposed to be by
Jakm VanEyk^BXk early RqffaeUe of the entombing of
Clirist, somewhat in his Perugino manner — and, better
than many dozens of surrounding ornaments, a fine
St. Francis, by Jnnihal Caracci ; worthy of all his high
rq>iitation. The La Hires and Jouvenets cover count-
lets square feet; and seem to be estimated rather
firom their size than by their merit. A little tender
Raffiielle, or elegant Parmegiano, is worth a ship-load
of such gaudy colouring and unmeaning composition.
At the end of the first of the two long rooms, or
galleries of pictures, is placed a whole-length statue,
ia terra cotta, of Cornbillb — a native, and the boast
of Rouen. It is in a sitting posture ; and has very con-
siderable merit. The countenance is full of expression ;
but the nose, though sufficiently prominent, is somewhat
flattened — contrary to the medallic representation of
his countenance, which exhibits it rather aquiline.
Every fiacility is afforded to artists, male and female,
to copy the treasures of this collection ; and we
saw, with equal pleasure and surprise, two ladies,
and one Major of the National Guard, (the latter in
long spurs and hessian boots, with a due portion of
mustachios) busied in covering no small quantity
of canvas with subjects not remarkable for their beauty
or expression.*

* The Founder of the Academy of Painting atRou^N was Monsieur
]>s8CAMP8j a young Flemish painter, who happened to be passing
that way in the year 1740> in his route to England by Havre. Des«

164

ROUEN.

In approaching the Public LiBRARY^you passthroiigh
a well-proportioned but not a very large room^ in which
the sittings of the Academy of Rouen are held. A
marble bust of the present King is at one end of it.
The view from the opposite side^ or from the range
of windows in the Library^ is really exhilarating. Tliis
view commands some of the gently rising eminenoeg
in the environs of the town ; and M. Gourdin^ who
lives behind one of these eminences, told me that he
retired thither, and returned from thence, every day to
the performance of his public duties in the Library.
After passing the before-mentioned room, you enter
the second — which is designated the Reading-room :
here the books, of whatever description you stand in
need, are regularly brought to you. The librvy, where
these books are kept, maybe full one hundred English

camps was strongly urged to alter his views by Messrs. Cideville,
Bourdonnaye^ and Lecat^ and to settle at Roaen^ and become tiie
founder of a School of Painting there. About the year 1750 the estai^
blishment was perfected. Descamps is better known by his eleg^
performance entitled La Vie des Peintres Flamandes, AUemands ei
HoUandois, arec des portraits graves, IJ^S, 8vo. 4 vols. TTie engrav-
ings^ of which FicQUET executed several^ are supposed by some to
constitute the chief merit of this work. It was translated into Dutch,
and HouBRAKEN exhibited his unrivalled talents in executing seven!
of the heads. Lord Spencer has a collection of proofs of these heads^
grouped without order and without letter-press, in a quarto form. Hie
grandson of Descamps^ now an old man^ is the professor of painting;
and a very civil and lively old gentleman he is. If the reader wish for
a more particular account of the pictures in the Museum at Rouen^ be
may consult Travels m France by Lieut, Hall, 1819^ 8vo ; whoe^ how-
ever, it is evidently intended only as a subordinate portion of that gen-
tleman's account of the dty of Rouen.

BOUEN.

165

eet in lengthy of a proportionate height and width,
[be windows are large^.and there is ample light for
lie. survey of the treasures exhibited. Among these
ireasiires, at the fiirther end of the room, reposes^
ipon a small table^ the huge folio Missal of which I
leretofore spake. The shew-man^ or Cicerone^ an old
MMter^ of about seventy^ advances in due form^ and
places you at the bottom of the book^ while he stands
sit the top : after a little common-place flourish^ the
luund-hearted creature wets his huge thumb, and turns
nvcr the leaves by fixing it precisely, every time, in the
9d£«ame spot. In consequence, I leave you to judge
of the frightful appearance of the mar^n where this
begrimed thumb is in the habit of alighting ! This prac-
doe is most heretical and abominable, and should be
instantly corrected. All strangers, and especially the
English, visit this graphic curiosity as the first thing to
)e seen. It is the result of thirty years patient and
ingenious toil. The character, or the style of art, may
be variously criticised ; but nothing can induce you to
withhold your admiration from the felicity of invention
and the splendor of colouring which it displays. Having
before described the writing, &c. it only remains to
add that the name of the artist was D*£aubonne, a
Benedictin monk, and that he died in 1714.

The first MS. which I opened to examine minutely,
was the famous Missal, supposed with good reason
to be of the xith. century ; as the dominical table
ead;ends from 1000 to 1095.* It is called St. Guthlac's

* Of the English Samts> we observe^ in the Calendar^ the names
of Cuthbert, Gutklac^ Elfege and Etheldithr^hui neither Dumtan,
nor Etiuhoold.

166 rouen:

book; and the first sentence contains an oriscmfiM?
the protection of that saint. It is a fine beantifiil
volume^ about 13 inches in lengthy by 9 in width. I
shall be particular in my account of it. The first four
leaves are written in the usual large semi-Saxon cfafir
racters of the time. The calendar is in a small band^
with alternate red, blue, and gold. In the opinion of
the Abb6 Gourdin, this is not only a very copious^ bot a
curious calendar; at the end of which we observe a
short poem^ in hexameter and pentameter verses, upon
the lunar revolutions, the days of the wedt, and the
months of the year. It is also observable that they
then used the terms of the Easter Moon, Rogatum
Moon, and tVhitsuntide Moon. In the pr^BMse, tte
name of each person is noticed for whom mass
for the repose of his soul is said. The prefiEitory
matter may be said to occupy the first sixteen
leaves. The leaves immediately succeeding appear to
have been cut out. The work itself follows, precisely
in the character, or general style, of the Duke of De-
vonshire's famous Missal, written by Godemann^ in the
xth. century, by command of the Great Ethelwold.*
Hie illuminated borders, consisting of architectural
ornaments, in colours andgold^ together with the larger
capital letters, are very splendidly executed. On the re-
verse of the 8th, and on the recto of the 9t\i, leaf of the
text, begins the series of illuminated subjects : such
as the Nativity, Adoration of the Magi, Sgc. The
Flight into Egypt is thus singularly represented ; Jor
seph being made to carry the distaff of Mary.

* See the BibliograpMcal Decameron ; vol. i. p. lix.

ROUJBN.

167

All these are within a sort of ai*chitectural border^
w frame work. Among the subsequent subjects^ the
Metrayat of Christ is not very inaptly treated ; the
figures are about three inches in height, and the border
is here very good. The Crucifixion and the taking
down from the Cross follow ; in the latter, the figure
of the mother of Christ is rather touchingly executed.
In the Resurrection^ the angel upon the tomb is pre-
cisely in the style of art of that in the Duke of Devon-
shire's book ; but, the composition is less spirited. On
the recto of the leaf where the Day of Pentecost occu-
ines the reverse, the border encircles a text entirely
gold. On the reverse of the 106th leaf is the following
%are, intended for St. Peter ; the text on the oppo*
site page^ in letters of gold, relating to him.

108 AOtTEN.

It may be worth informing you that the hair of tiie
Saint is light blue ; his vestment^ or upper garment
green — ^his under garment, orange : the glory, gold :
the book, gold ; and the footstool gold. The illuminar
tion for All Saints Day is fresh and good. Tliat of

ROUEN.

St. Andrew is particularly brilliant ; the opposite page
of text is gold* The representation of the Trinity is
torn out : the text^ opposite^ is in capitals of gold.
After the 100th leaf—'' 3[tK^tt TpCU ittSrmitf

Tbe text concludes on the reverse of the 201st leaf.
Upon the whole this is a volume of great intrinsic
curiosity, and considering its age, is in a fine state of
preservation. — It belonged formerly to the Abbey of
Jumieges; as is evident from the following coeval
memorandum: — ^written in the hand-writing of Robert
Bishop of London (afterwards Archbishop of Canter-
bury), who was formerly head of that Monastery, and
who died there in 1053 : It is as follows ; being an
anathema against any future purloiner of the volume —

Quem si quis vi vel dolo sen quoquo modo isti loco
fiubtraxerit, animae suae propter quod fecerit detrimen-
turn patiatur atque de libro viventium deleatur et cum
justis non scribatur/*

We must now take a peep at the companion of
the foregoing old-fisushioned treasure. This is empha-
tically called the Benbdictionarius. It is a curious
volume ; perhaps of equal — perhaps of greater — anti-
quity : bdng about half an inch shorter, and having
twepty-two lines in a full page. The text is generally
executed in larger lettei*s. The illuminations (de-
scribed by M. Gourdin*) are larger, coarser, and fewer
in number than those in the Missal. The first speci-

* described by M, Gourdin.^ Notwithstanding this worthy Abb^
and most respectable librarian has published a sort of critical disser-
latkm upon this old-foshioned tre^ure/' in the transactions of the
Rcpuen Society for 1812^ p. 164 — 174 — in which he is pleased to gire
the preference to the ffliiminationB in the BenetHctionanuioyrer those

▼pL. I. L

170

ROUEN.

men of frame-work bordering is broad and bold. The
second similar specimen encloses the angel upon the

ot the Misiol juat above described — ventare to diier ham him
entirely in such conclusion. His criticism is thus : Lea figures en
sont beaucoup plus mal dessindes que ceUes du B6iedicHi(nmaire, maps
on pent dire que Tor est prodigu^ dans ce numuscrit^ — that is to
say, there is a lavish expenditure of gold in the Ifissal.** But there
is something more than a mere profusion of gold; wfaile the figures in
theBenedictionarius are, in &ct, less skilfully and lesaspiritedtydrsim.

Thk Benedictionarius, as above intimated^ has given rise to a
critical dissertation of the Abb^ Gourdin, in the work just mentionjpA.
The object of this dissertation is to refute the opinion of the Abb^
Saas, who assigned this ancient volume, apparently on the authority
of Father Morin, to the viiith century. Montfoucon, without having
seen the book, acquiesced in the same conclusion. But M. Cknir^
has justly shewn, from the introduction of certain Saints {Switkm and
Ortm6a2d, the latter of whom died in the beginning of the xth century)
that it could not have been executed in the eighth century. It seems
the MS. had been given to the Cathedral of Rouen ; and the second
question in agitation is, whether it was given by Robert Archbishop of
Rouen, or by Robert Archbishop of Canterbury — a question, upon
which a lively altercation took place between the Abb^ Saas and Dom
Tassin, one of the Editors of the Nouveau Tr<Uti de Diplomatique,
That it was given by an Archbishop of the name of Robert, seems incon-
trovertible— from an ancient entry in an old Catalogue of the Books of
the Cathedral. After six pages of bibliographical criticism, M. Crourdin
concludes, upon apparently safe grounds, that the volume in question
was given by the Robert who was Archbishop of Rouen, and who
died in 1053 : in consequence, says M. Gourdin, the MS. is not of the
ixth nor of the xiiith century. In all probability, it is of the com'*
mencement of the xith century. The latter part of the volume contains
a Pontifical, or forms and ceremonies connected with the eccle-
siastical office. My friend the Rev. H. Drury posseses a very fine
MS. (from the McCarthy collection) of the Cathedral Service of Rouenj,
of the xiith or xiiith century. The initials are in a sober and appro-
priate style ; the text is a large semi-gothic^ varied by red and bhie

»OUEN. 171

ftmb, (after the resurrection Irf Christ) of which I
teve thus made a fee-simile.

The markings of the lights are very strong, and have
the roughness of oil-painting. The gilding is less skil-

inka, but more particularly red. The fonns of the exorcism of oil>
as well as the exorcism itself C Exorciso te creatura olei per domi*
num patrem omzupotentem^ &c.) are curious and even diverting.

173

fiOUEN.

fiilly exeratedthanin theMissai^andtheBtTlei^ i»
generally of a very inferior kind. I subjoin two traetngs
of comer portions from the fourth and sixth frame woilc,
at top, which you may compare with what has already
i^peared before the public, and hence convince yoursdf
of the contemporaneousness of the respective produc-
tions.

BOUEN.

173

The Dewceni of the Holy Ohost is rather boldly
npmented by flames of fire issuing from the opened
moath of the Dove. In the whole^ there are only eight
fflnminations; of which three are composed of figures^
and of these the third represents the Death of the
Virgin. The vellum is thick^ but S(^; wd though
this volume^ on the score of graphic beauty^ be inferior
to the preceding, yet is it a most interesting and vene-
rable relic of ancient art. The Abb^ Gourdin says,
that it was reported that some of our countrymen had
offered as much as 15,000 francs for this volume but
I consider this report as exceedingly questionable*
The Missal, "which is in every respect a more market-
able article, may be worth one^eventh of that sum.
Of the remaining MSS. there was little or nothing (on
the score of art, antiquity, or intrinsic worth) in those
which I saw, that much interested me ; and when I
expressed a desire to make further and minute
researches, I learnt, with equal surprise and sorrow,
that they wanted both room and opportunity to exa-
mine upwards of eight hundred yet uninspected MSS*
In other words, they want finances ; for the reading-
room itself, with appropriate shelves, might contain
the whole of these unexamined volumes very commo-
diously. However, you shall have the fioiils of a little
more gleaning among illuminated MSS. An Ovid
MORALIZED, iu Frcuch, in one large folio written in
double columns, in a small close gothic character,
is no contemptible volume for a short half hour*s
amusement. This volume is evidently much cropt.
The illuminations are precisely similar, in style and

174

ROUEN.

colour^ to those of the Raman ff.Alexandre—heioire so
copiously expatiated upon:* the back grounds aie
diamond-wise : the figures are of the same height ; but
there are no drolleries ; and upon the whole fewer embel-
Mmients. One illumination is worth noticing. It is a
representation of fortune, blinded, in the middle of her
wheel — around which are £3ur figures: a king at
top, and a naked figure at bottom. At folio 59^ recto,
from the commencement of the text, which begins
thus : — after 13 leaves of table :

Se lescripture ne nous ment
Tout eat pour nre erueignement
QU quU a en Uures escript
Soient bon ou mal U escript,

Tliere is at bottom an escutcheon of arms^ five
balls argent, upon a ground azure. At the end of the
MS., which is much soiled, we read

Explicit

Ci finent Us fables douide le grant.

Another MS. worth noticing, is that entitled Livrb
HiSTORiAL des faits de feu Messire Betrand du
GuESCLiN jWi^ connetable du Royaume de France^
Dm interesting volume was given to the library by the
Abb6 Des Jardins, a canon of the cathedral of Rouen,
in 1640. A note prefixed by Saas is wrong, according
to M. Gourdin, who refers to Lehong's Bibl.Historiquey
art. 13495-6. This MS. is executed in a coarse Gothic
hand, in prose ; and has the following colophon :

En vng teps qui a yuer no
Ou chastel royal de vemon
Qui ist aux chaps & la ville

* Bibliogr, Decameron; vol. i. p. cxcviii.

HOUEN.

175

list iehaiuiel destoutenville
Au dh chastel lors capitaine
Aussi de veraomel sur saine
Et du roy escuier de corps
Mectre en prose vn mS recors
Ce Ihire cy extrait de rime
Complet en mars dix & neufuieme
Qui de Ian la date ne sect
Mil. ccc. quatre vins & sept

This volume is in good condition; and is bound in
boards covered with red velvet. I examined also a
curious old volume of various tracts^ which is bound in
wood ; having in the centre, on each side, a large fi-
gure, about nine inches high, carved in ivory. This
volume is called the Ivory Book — and may be of the
vvth century. I was well satisfied with turning over
the leaves of an old volume of Homilies and Sermons^
some of them of St. Jerom, of the xiith century ; hav-
ing two or three ancient and weU-executed grotesque
capital initials ; of which the M. and P. struck me as
bdng admirably ima^ned.

From MSS. it is natural to go to Printed Books.
When I first took my station among the students, I
was much amused on finding, at my left hand, my old
fiiend the porter, or Cicerone, gravely sitting, with

spectacles on nose'', intent upon a modern publication
—which was entitled, I think, Precis de la Revolution
Francoise.^ The generality of the students, few in num-
ber, were not remarkable for a very spruce exterior — ^in-
cluding even the venerable head Librarian himself: but
they sometimes compensate for these outward defi-
ciences by the respectability and utility of their pur-
suits. Thus, I saw a dingy looking young man con-^

176

BOUEN.

suiting with facility the Arabic hoAom of Castell^ to
assist him in the perusal of a lai^ Latin and Arabic
folio: while to my right sate an ancient gentleman^
busied in a careful examination ci the Index Chronolo-
gicus** of Bouquet's Recueil des Hisioriens des Omdes.
But this is very immaterial — and we go at onoe to the
Mttft : especially to the F^eeners. The oldest woik
they possess^ of the xvth century^ is

Sti. Jeronimi Epistoljb: printed hy Sweynhtym
and Pannartz in 1468, 2 vols, folio. A fair copy, but
cropt — ^in its second binding, and wormed a little at
the end.

S. AuGUSTiNus DE CiviTATB Dei, printed hf J. de
Spira in 1470, folio. The largest and finest topy I
ever saw of this not very uncommon book. It is in
Its original binding, with many rough leaves.

Manipulus Curatorum, printed hy Cassaris onfy, _
(without his partner Stol) in 1473, at Paris, folio. A
Vety early specimen of the press of this printer: but
unluckily this is a very bad copy.
' Speculum Historiale Vincentii Bellovacbnsis,
printed hy Mentelin in 1473, in four folio volumes : the
name of the printer in each volume. This copy is much
eropt, and soiled.

ZoPHiLOLOGiUM edituM ajratre Jacobo Magin de
Parisius ordinis heremitarum sti Augustini.JinftfeUr-
citer (sic.) This is a folio volume, without date—
^stinguishable for the peculiar formation of the letter
R ; but respecting the name of the printer, all en-
quiries have been hitherto fruitless. Look into the firsts
volume of the Bibl. Spenceriana, and you will 4nd
fto-simile of this long-I^;ged lettw. Togethw with

ROUEN.

177

Ulisirwk is bound an edition of the Three Kings of
CiiHbOONB^ printed by GuUensckaiff* in 1477^ in his best
manner. The copy is too much crept.

Tractatus db Questionibus sec. Balbum. Print-
ed at Parisj in 1477, 4to. without name of printer. To
me, this type is perfectly new — as a Parisian produc*
ticMi. It resembles the small and earlier type of Pyn*
aon ; but is certmnly the model upon which Vostre,
Eostace, and Bonfons, &c. formed their character.
Perhaps it may have been executed by the printer of
^the Ckronique de St. Denis^ in three folio volumes,
1476.

Ju8TiNU3* Printed hy Philip Condom Petri, in

1479, folio. This is the earliest printed Classic in
Ithe library: but as a specimen of ancient and valuable
printing, it is scarcely worth more than a Napoleon or
two.

BiBLiA Sacra. Latine. Printed hy Koberger in

1480. This is their earliest Bible. They ought to
have one eighteen years earlier. Take eighteen from
1480, and there remains the number 1462. You un-
derstand me.

La Vie des Peres, 1486, folio. An indifferent
copy. M. Gourdin thinks that this is the first and
oply edition of the work in the xvth century — ^but il
Be trompe.*"

CiCBRONis Epistol^ Familiarbs. Printed in
1488. The earliest Cicero of the xvth century. There
are libraries, private as well as public, which contain a
fisw more Fifteeners of the same author !

We may notice, en passant, the Lbgbnda Aurba of
1486j La Mbr des Histoir^s, by my old friend Philip

178

ROUEN.

tiC Rouge, in 1488, a Catholicon of 1489, and Lb
SoNGE Du Verdier, 1491 : the latter the edition.
I tried to get a sight of the Sacramento db la pbni-
TENciA, printed at Seville in 1492 ; but M. Fossard,
whose attentions were unremitting, and whose manual
exertions covered him with dust and cobwebs, was
not able to lay his hand upon it. A word now re-
specting

Missals and Breviaries appertaining to the church
service at Rouen. They have a ruled and washed**
paper copy of the Missal, printed at Paris, in 1491,
folio ; and also of the Breviary, printed at Paris by
Levet, for Bernard, a Rouen bookseller, in the same
year : folio. Also an edition of the Breviary in 1491,
printed at Rouen. But the folio editions by Morin, in
1495 and 1499, are glorious volumes— especially as they
are printed upon vellum. The former is soiled from
much thumbing: the latter is fresh, beautiful, and
splendid : presenting us with a magnificent title-page.
They have a duplicate of the latter, equally fine, and
also upon vellum : with a difference in the title-page,
it being ornamented at bottom. There is, however, a
MS. leaf in the middle of this second copy. An edi-
tion of the fVinter Part of the Cathedral Service at
Rouen, printed by Jean de Bourgoys, in 1492, 8vo.
UPON VELLUM, cxhibits a beautiful specimen of print-
ing ; but the copy is rather cropt. We may vary our
book subject by a notice or two of

Aldine Classics. There is a good, clean, but
cropt copy of the first Theocritus, 1495 : a desirable,
clean copy of the Aristophanes of 1498 : a sound, clean,
and perfect copy of the Epistolw Diversor. Phtlos. et

ROUEN.

179

(hakm* 1499,4to. and a very good copy of the second
DmnastheneSy of 1504. But the whole of these form
nothing to boast of. I shall conclude my remarks
among the Fifteeners^ by mentioning

HoRATius^ 1492 : 1498, folio. The former has the
commentaries of Aero and Porphyrio: the latter has
the well known wood-cut decorations : but, singularly
enough, a figure seems wanting in the middle com-
partment at folio Ixxxix. As well as I could estimate,
there are about 245 articles printed in the xvth cen-
tury, with dates ; and about 88 articles in the same
"century without dates. But the character and com-
plexion of these Fiftbeners are, upon the whole, of a
very secondary nature. Indeed, two-thirds of them
may be easily dispensed with. Of the more rare and
curious articles in the sixteenth century^ I noticed only
the following :

Victoria POrcheti adversus impios Hebraos>
&c. 1520. A beautiful small folio, printed by Des-
plain for Gourmont and Regnault, upon vellum. It
came from the library of the Abbey of Jumieges.

Flos Sanctorum. Toledo^ 1582, folio. A curious
volume ; abounding with legendary tales of consider-
able interest — as Mr. Southey, in his occasional re-
fvences to it, has given us opportunities of knowing.

Acta Sanctorum, 52 volumes : including a portion
q£ the month of October. A very desirable copy, in
nice old calf binding, with gilt tooling.

Upon the whole, they reckon upon about 20,000
volumes in the public library. Alas ! it was once of
far greater extent. During the Revolution, they could
boast of about 250,000 volumes ; but a considerable

180

ROUEN.

portion of this vast number wag piEaged from the
libraries of the Emigrants. These however have been
partly restored to their respective owners. Yet dmiag
that maddest of all manias, the revolutionary mama.,
they sold the greater part of this library tot the paltiy
sum of 20,000 francs, and not fewer than 10,000 vo^
lumes are supposed to have been publicly burnt in the
Place des Cannes . . . within fifty yards of the very spot
.whence this account of it is penned! Do I still sniff
the heart sickening odour of the fire and smoke of thii
almost sacrilegious conflagration ? How many unique
JMLysteries, Romances, and Chronicles, were possibly
^destroyed at that eventful crisis i A word now onty
respecting the^nances of this public library* The last
year 1000 francs—only — were expmded upon it. it
wa^ all they could spare. But what can you expeet
— ^when I learnt, at the last sSance of their Royal Aca-
demy, (in reply to some official questions from the
Minister of the Interior) that the annual funds of the
iK>ciety consisted only of 1800 francs ?

I attended two Meetings of this Society — which
can boast of some very intelligent clever members.
'Hiey meet once a week, on a Friday, at six o^clodc,
and terminate the sitting at dg^t. M. Vitalis, who
took the chsdr of the President, understands English
well, and is a very well-informed and respectable man.
He gave me a good notion of the French gentleman of
former times. There were about thirty Members pre-
sent. Excellent order was observed, and some dis-
cussions took place, in the shape of debates, which
were conducted with equal temper and spirit. I heard
a paper read relating to some travels in the alpine

ROUEN.

161

Mnetattf itafy» nndeitaken with a view to botanical re-
mmkesy wfaiolir wa» justly commoMied. Indeed bo-
bny is a &voarite subject with nearly all the Members
of the Society: but I hope good M. Le Prevost will
mstet lose sight of locals Antiquities — ^in every point of
mw in which it is capable of affording equal instruo-
tkm and delight. What a volume they might produce
Mnected with their own city ! They print, but do not
Ipnblish^ an analytical abridgment of the Transactions
wf the Society and I should tell you that^ had it
ib^BOt been for the kind activity of M. Le Prevost, I
fhtrald never have procured for Lord Spencer a perfecH;
copy of these Memoirs — ^upwards of fifteen volumes
fa octavo. In the Althorp Lihrary such a work is
absohitely necessary : the more so, as I understood^
vben I left England, that neither the British Museum
aor the Bodleian Library possessed a perfect set.
.'I

, .f OemoirM of the Tratuactwm of the Sock^jf.]— The History of these
MeiOBoirB is briefly this. The Society was established in 1744 \ and a
^ Frdcis Analytiqae*' of its labours, from the date of its foundation to
attt year of its ifMoration in 1803, was published in the years 1814,
and 1817' These three volumes comprehend its history in ^e
Mlpifing manner : that of 1814> called the 1st vcdmne, gives the his-
%Bry from 1744 to 1750: that of 1816> from 1751 to 1760: and
thai of 1817 " from 1761 to 1770." What became of the History
from the year 1770 to the period of its interruption by the Revolution
-^or whether it ceased in the year 1770 — am imable to mention ; as a
toppbsed iperfect copy of these Transactions, supplied by the kindness
ef'M. lie PrimMt, only famishes me with a resumption of the labours
«f |lie:Academy in 1804. These were published in 1807. From this
kltcr period^ that is from 1804, the series goes in aregular succession
dbwh to the year 1815 — the account of the transactions in one year
bdng regularly published in the year following. Thus, induding the
three volumes published in 1814, 1816, and 1 8 l7«8upply(Dgaa abridged

183

BOUEN.

Farewell now to Roubn. I have told yoa all tlie
tdlings which I thought worthy of oommimication; I

hifltory of the labours up to the year 1770, there will be sixteen vo-
lumes in the whole. The work is published in an octsro form, xxpaa
an indifferent paper^ and is indifferently printed. The title ift nal^
temly thus: " Prick Jnali/Hque des Traioaux de fAcadAme Rof4k
dtf Sciences, dee Belles Lettres et dee ArU de Rouen:' De FIw^ de
P. Pfrittux, Imprimeur du Roi et de VAcadhne" There are no oh
graidngs — ^but those which are tabulated^ displaying the results of
certain calculations and experiments. The generality of the comnnk
nications are abridged; but there are several " Mteoires dont TAca*
dtele a delib^r^ de Timpression en entier dans ses Actes/* Tlicie
communications^ like those of our Royal Society's Transactions^ are
most entirely scientific. Chemistry, Botany, and Medicine are in high
request among the Rouennois.

In the last volume, published in 1817# giving an account of the la*
hours of the preceding year, the stream ofusual infbnnationis diverted
a little into political channels^ all about Lovit Lb DB8IRB^ The
French are admirable masters of quick transition. Thus, upon the in-
auguration of the bust of Louis XVIII., M. Gourdin, the President,
** pronounces a discourse'* beginning thus — Messieurs^ la o6pfi-
monie qui nous rassemble aigourd'hui est ^galement auguste et
touchante. Elle est auguste, puisqu*il s'y agit de Tinauguration du
buste de notre Monarque : elle est touchante, puisque ce sent dei
en&ns r^unis autour de I'image de leur p^re pour lui payer le tribut de
leur amour. C'est done une f^te de famille. Ah I Messieurs, qu'dle
est douce pour nos coeurs !'* — ^This is fbUowed by yet more ardent and
more encomiastic language by M. Boistard, Ing^nieur en dief,
chevalier de VOrdre royal de la L^on d'Honneur,** which concludes
with'^Vivent les Bourbons ! Vivele Roi .Vive le Roi ! Vivent
ks Bourbons!" My worthy acquaintance M. Dupntel— <^ whose
privately-printed lucubrations of the muse, honourable mention
has been made in a preceding page, has fbUowed up these testimo-
nies of loyalty in prose, by the efiusions of his own muse— entitled
and (beginning thus :

BOUBN.

188

ve endeavoured to make yon saunter with me in the
reets, in the cathedral, the abbey^ and the churches,
e have, in imagination at least, strolled together
mg the quays, visited the halls and public build-

and gazed with rapture from Mont Ste. Ca*
irine upon the en(!Aianting view of the city, the

and the neighbouring hills. We have from
nee breathed almost the pure air of heaven, and
rveyed a country equally beautified by art, and
sflsed by nature. Our hearts, from that same height,
ve wished all manner of health, wealth, and pros*
rity, to a land thus abounding in com and wine,
d oil and gladness. We have silently, but sincerely
lyed, that swords may for ever be " turned into
iQgh-shares, and spears into pruning-hooks" : — that
heart-burnings, antipathies, and animosities, may
eternally extinguished ; and that, from henceforth,
ire may be no national rivalries but such as tend
establish, upon a firmer footing, and a more com-
nhensive scale, the peace and happiness of fellow*
»tures, of whatever persuasion they may be:— of
A, who sedulously cultivate the arts of individual

HOMMAGB A Louis LB DeSIAb'.

IdyUe.

Voas, da docte I^umasse et ramouret rhonnear,

Au 8on de la trompette>
Des vertus de Louis c^l^brez la grandeur;

Une simple musette
Sied mieux k mon esprit, et plait mieuz i, mon coeur.
&c. &c. &c.

apprehend there are no similar specimens in the printed Memoirs
or own Societies • • • .But what then }

184

BOUEN.

and of national improvement^ and blend the duties
of social order with the higher calls of morality and
religion. Ah! my friend, these are neither foolish
thoughts nor romantic wishes. They arise naturally in
an honeist heart, which, seeing that all creation is
animated and upheld by one and the same power,
cannot but ardently hope that all may be equally
benefitted by a reliance upon its goodness and bounty.

From this eminence we have descended somewhat
into humbler walks. We have visited hospitals, strolled
in flower-gardens, and associated with publishers and
« collectors of works — both of the dead and the Itvin^.
Hence we have diverged to witness the silent, and. yet
eloquent relics of ancient art ; from the chissel of the
iculptor, to the pencil of the illuminator ; and aidto
ItilQf, like ''atdb lang ifptier have comforted us in
our latter and more congenial researches. So now,
fare you well. Commend me to your fitmily and to
our common Mends, — especially to the "BfU^batffytCitf
diould they perchance enquire after thdr wandering
Vice President. Many wiU be the days passed over,
and many the leagues traversed, ere I meet them again.
No Clarendon festivals for me, till the year of our Lord
1819 ! Again adieu ! . . . I have hired a decent cabriolet,
a decent pair of horses, and a yet more promising pos-
tilion ; and within twenty-four hours my back will be
more decidedly turned upon ''dear old England*' —
for that country, in which her ancient kings onc^
held dominion, and where every square mile (I had.
almost smd acre) is equally interesting to the anti^
quaiy and the agriculturist. I salute you wholly^ andL
am yours ever.

.185

LETTER X.

pBPARTURB FROM ROUEN. ST. GEOROpiS DE BOCHI&R-
VILLE. DUCLAIR. MARIVAUX. THE ABBEY Of

4 -I V

IjlUMIEGBS. ARRIVAL AT CAUOEBBG.

til . ..

. MY DEAR FRIEND. Milfff 181|.

,,.,f4^Y,]aat letter led you to eixpect tfaat».ia spite of.aU
iO l^tcsque boautiep^ aad antiquariaa- a^ttractkMiS) tbe
ciffT OF ibpqBN wQS ftt leqgtli.ti^ .be quitt6d-*4uid thut %
foc^ were to piirsue our foute Qiore in Uie charaetor/lif
iiHifipepi^iit tmvdiers^ in na: hiiieii oftbric^.
IHfiyp IHUgenc^y qr (^d^ctew^ Our o^ sagaoity and
nrdd^iice^ aidad by.tliat ^.the f^gon de poiSte^ mfft
^fooefi^h to be fm sole fuides« Adieu therefi^re. to
dpijir avemi^j gloomy courts^ o^pl^ging moq£^ mut^
v^iiff^Mi^^ whips^ the iiQy^^oeaai»g tm»

qf,4ifirt9 and cairriages^ neve^^odi^g: movements of
cwsntless oiajBses.ctf popuialMn ^?r^Adieu I-r-andin their
8|W(il» wekome: be the windingsn^^ the fertile mea*
dwri the thickly-planted orchard^ and! the broad abd
cKw^ing Sidney

r^Ao^oiMiiiigljr, cooi'tfae^th of th^ between the

h0ara of ten and dbeYen>; A. M. the raabtltng of horses'
hoofed and the eehoes of a postillion's . whip, were beard
vjilhin'the 'Court-^yard of th^ Hdtel Vatd. Monsieur,
Madame, Jacques, ami the whole firatemity of domes-
tiWi, were (m the.. alert^^^ pour faire les adieux k
AiissieuF9 les Aagloia.* < This. Jacques . has been ai*
ready incidentally noticed. He is the prime minister of

VOL. I. M

186 DEPARTUEE FROM ROUEN.

the Hotel Vatel. A somewhat uncomfortable deten-
tion in England for five years^ in the character of
" prisoner of war,** has made him master of a pretty
quick and ready utterance of common-place phrases
in our language ; and he is not a little proud of his
attainments therein. Seriously speaking, I consider
him quite a phenomenon in his way ; and it is right
you should know that he affords a very fair specimen
of a sharp^ clever, French servant: His bodily move-
ments are nearly as quick as those of his tongue.
He rises, as well as his brethren, by five in the mom-
# ing; and the testimonies of this early activity are
quickly discovered in the unceasing noise of beating
coats, singing French aii-s, and scolding the boot-
boy. He rarely retires to rest before mid-night ; and
the whole day long he is in one eternal round of occu-
pation. When he is bordering upon impertinence, he
seems to be conscious of it — declaring that " the Elng-
lish make him saucy, but that naturally he is very
civil.*" He always speaks of human beings in the neu-
ter gender ; and to a question whether such a one has
been at the Hotel, he replies, ^'I have not seen to-
day.'* I am persuaded he is a thoroughly honest crea-
ture ; and considering the pains which are taken to
spoil him, it is surprising with what good sense and
propriety he conducts himself.

But to return. The whole complement of inn-*
door occupants, including even visitors, attended our
departure. " Au plaisir de vous revoir'* — Bon
voyage" — and other similar exclamations resounded
on all sides — when, about eleven o'clock, we sprung for-
ward, at a smart trot, towards the barriers by which

DEPARTUHE FROM ROUEN. 187

we had entered Rouen. Our postillion was a thorough
master of his calling, and his spurs and whip seemed
to know no cessation from action. The steeds, per-
fectly Norman, were somewhat fiery ; and we rattled
along the streets, (for the pav6 never causes the least
abatement of pace with the French driver) in high
expectation of seeing a thousand rare sights ere we
reached Havre — equally the limits of our journey,
and of our contract with the owner of the cabrio-
let. That accomplished antiquary, M. Le Prevost,
whose name you have often heard, had furnished me
with so dainty a bill of fare, or carte de voyage, that
I began to consider each hour lost which did not bring
us in contact with some architectural relic of anti-
quity, or some elevated position — whence the wander-
ing Seine and wooded heights of the adjacent country
might be sui-veyed with equal advantage.

You have often, I make no doubt, my dear friend,
started upon something like a similar expedition: —
when the morning has been fair, the sun bright, the
breeze gentle, and the atmosphere clear. In such
moments how the ardour of hope takes possession of
one! — How the heart warms, and the conversation
flows ! The barriers are approached ; we turn to the
left, having the Grande Route du Havre rather before
us, and commence our journey in good earnest. Pre-
viously to gaining the first considerable height, you
pass the village of Canteleu. This village is exceed-
ingly picturesque. It is studded with water-mills, and
is enlivened by a rapid rivulet, which empties itself, in
a serpentine direction, into the Seine. You now begin
to ascend a very cqmmanding eminence ; at the top of

188

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

which are scattered some of those country houses which
are seen from Mont Ste. Catharine. Tlie road is of a
noble breadth. The day wanned — and we dismounted
to let our steeds breathe more freelv, as we continued
to ascend leisurely. Mr. Lewis ran on befoi'e ; took a
position, — ^with the magnificent sweep of the river,
and the towers and spires of Rouen at a little distance
before him — and drawing forth his ready pencil, trans-
ferred, in a fit of extacy, the whole of the enchanting
scene * into his sketch-book. I send it you : matured
and mellowed by the magic of light and shade. It is
at once a most faithful copy of the particular scene re-
presented, and of the generality of the river and hill sce-
nery in the route from Rouen to Bolbec. Perhaps the
distance is too delicately marked ; so as to give you
an idea of the hill, to the right of Rouen, (which hi
fact is Mont Ste. Catharine) being farther situated
from the city than it really is. But the whole is de-
lightfully picturesque.

We romounted, having gratified the postilion by
granting his request to have a peep at the drawing,
which he pronounced to be " charmant !" I love cu-
riosity of this kind, when it does not border upon im-
pertinence ; and I had a shrewd suspicion that our
gar^on was a lad of no ordinary mettle. Our first
halting-place was to be St, Georges de Bocherville ; an
ancient abbey of the xiith century, according to the
instructions of M. Le Prevost. This abbey is situated
about three French leagues from Rouen. Our route

* See tlie Opposite Plate. Lieut. Hall has described the same,
or a similar scene, with great truth and animation, in his TVimti
in France, in 1818; 8to. p. 45, 6.

ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE- 189

thither^ from the summit of the hill which we had just
ascended, lay along a road skirted by interminable
orchards now in their fullest bloom. The air was
absolutely perfumed, to a sort of aromatic excess, by
tiie fragrance of these blossoms. The apple and pear
were beautifully conspicuous ; and as the sky became
still more serene, and the temperature yet more mild
by the unobstructed sun beam, it is impossible to con-
ceive any thing more balmy and more genial than was
this lovely day. The minutes seemed to fly away too
quickly — when we reached the village of Bocherville,
where stands the church ; the chief remaining relic of
this once beautiful abbey. We alighted at the au-
berge ; and while our steeds and postillion were feast-
ing upon their peculiar provenders, we started for the
enjoyment of provender of a very different description.

Turning quickly down a lane to the left, thickly
shaded by overhanging branches of fruit trees^ we
hastened onward, still keeping to the left ; when, peep-
ing between the trees, at a little distance, we discerned
the venerable ecclesiastical edifice— of a pale and
even fresh tone of colour. It appeared to be small,
but extremely beautiful, and of a deliciously old
aspect. The village was all alive in a moment.
Women and children were chiefly visible; the men
being engaged in the fields. The towering cauchoise
and wooden shoes proved that we were still in the vi-
cinity of Rouen. There seemed to be plenty of dirt
and plenty of wretchedness in the village. We in-
qnired for Le Concierge ; and in his absence came
^'madame son Spouse.*' We surveyed the west front
very leism-ely^ and thought it an extremely beautiful

190

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

specimen of the architecture of the twelfth and thir-
teenth centuries; for certainly there are some portions
more ancient than others. M. Le Prevost had apprised
me that Mr. Cotman had designed pretty nearly the
whole of the building,* with the exception of the chap-
ter-house to the left of the west front. A survey of this
chapter-house filled me with mingled soitow and de-
light : sorrow, that the Revolution and a modern cot*
ton manufactory had metamorphosed it from its origi-
nal character ; and delight, that the portions which
remained were of such beautiful forms^ and in such fine
preservation. The stone, being of a very close-grained
quality, is absolutely as white and sound as if it
had been just cut from the quarry. The room^ where
a parcel of bare legged girls and boys were working the
respective machineries, had a roof of what may be called
interlaced arches of the most delicate construction.

This old building has been recently divided into an
upper and ground floor ; and it was by means of this
artificial division that, while upon the upper floor, we
were enabled to make so minute a survey of the arched
roof. I imagine the whole of this portion of the build-
ing to have been the Chapter House ; and that on the
scite, which is now occupied by a long front of build-
ing, of the usual architecture of modern times^ stood
the Refectory and Dormitory. It may, however, be
just the reverse : nor is it material whether what we saw
be the chapter-house or the refectory. The conversion
of the whole to the purposes of trade has a very strange

• Mr. Cotman has in fact published views of the West Fronts the
South East, the West Entrance^ and the South Transept, with sculp-
tured capitals and basso-relievosj &c. In the whole, seven plates.

ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE. 191

effect. But the present is not the first metamoiphosis :
for the large building, just mentioned, was erected about
four-score years ago by a nobleman, or prince, who
diose to retire from the bustle of public life„ and to de-
TOte a large fortune to the erection of this mansion as a
monastery for a prior and seventeen lay-monks. A fine
piece of ground, or walled park, surrounds it ; which is
just now in a most pitiable state of neglect. In short,
this general aspect of decay pervades the interior^ or
manufactory itself. The superintendant, who shewed
08 every part of this large establishment, told us that
the owner was anxious to get rid either of the whole
or of the half of it ; and that he would part with the
latter for 35,000 francs. This apparently trifling sum
would startle, at first sound, an English manufiEicturer :
but all things, you know, must be estimated with refe-^
rence to the country in which they occur. Here, land
and labour are cheap and reasonable enough^ and the
demand (though things are upon the mend) is slow and
uncertmn.

The very sound of a Monastery made me curious to
egcamine the disposition of the building. Accordingly,
I followed my guide through suites of apartments up
divers stone stair-cases, and along sundry corridores.
I noticed the dormitories with due attention, and of
course inquired eagerly for the Library : — ^but the
shelves only remained— either the fear or the fury of
the Revolution having long ago dispossessed it of
$every thing in the shape of a hook. The whole was
punted white. I counted eleven perpendicular di-
visions ; and, from the small distances between the up-
per shelves, there must have been a very considerable

192

ttOUEN TO HAVBE.

number of duodecimos. The titles of the respective
classes of the library were painted in white letters
Yq>on a dark-blue groun^, at top. Bibles occupied the
first division^ and the Fathers the second : but it
should seem that equal importance was attached to
the works of Heretics as to those called Littene Hu-
maniores — ^for each had a division of equal ma^itnde.

On close inquiry, I found that the ravages of cme
day, during the Revolution, had gutted the poor li*
brary of all its book-furniture. It is, hovrever, a very
small room. There was something excessively melaii-
choly in the air of all this premature ruin : stout walls,
and spacious chambers, (the paint yet fresh) without
occupation ! . . On looking out of window, especially
from the back part of the building, the eye rests en-
tirely upon what had once been fruitful orchards,
abundant kitchen gardens, and shady avenues. Yet
in England, this spot, rich by nature, and desirable
from its proximity to a great city, would, ere forty
moons had waned, have grown up into beauty and
fertility, and expanded even into luxuriance of condi-
tion. How interesting are the remans of ecclesiasti-
cal architecture — and how yet increased in sanctity
seems to be the house of God — ^when surrounded by a
domain of this description! I must confess that I
quitted this congenial spot (the first which united
rural quiet vrith architectural antiquity, since our ears
had been stunned by the " train-train*' of Rx>uen) with
sensations of no ordinary kind. We retrod our steps ;
and reaching the aiiberge, where stood the horses with
the cabriolet ready to receive us, we remounted, and
told the postillion to push on for Duclair.

BE LA FONTAINE

193

The day was now, if possible, more lovely than before.
Od looking at my instructions I found that we had
to stop to examine the remains of an old castle at De^
k^tmtaine — about two English miles from St. Georges
de Bocherville. These remains, however, are but the
fragments of a ruin, if I may so speak ; yet they are
intei^sting, but somewhat perilous : for a few broken
portions of a wall support an upper chamber, where
appears a stone chimney-piece of very curious con-
stmction and ornament. Mr. Lewis contrived in ten
minutes to make a slight yet characteristic sketch of it.
I call these fragments perilous ; for there is a portion of
Unem of which the superincumbent floor, of flint-stone
and mortar, is just giving way — ^threatening to crush
every thing below. On observing a large cavity or loop--
hole, about half way up the outer wall, I gained it by
•means of a plentiful growth of ivy, and from thence
TOTveyed the landscape before me. Here, having for
some time past lost sight of the Seine, I caught a fine
bold view of the sweep of that majestic river, now be-
coming broader and broader — ^while, to the left, softly
tinted by distance, appeared the beautiful old church we
bad just left behind : — the verdure of the hedges, shrubs,
and forest trees, affording a rich variety to the ruddy
blossoms of the apple, and the white bloom of the pear.
For a painter, or rather upon the principles of compo-
sition for a well-painted landscape, there was nothing
that an artist would think deserving of representing
upon canvas : for there was absolutely neither what is
called f(»^ground, nor middle-ground, nor distance —
and yet, altogether, you would have preferred it even
to the wooded scenery of Hobbima, to the cool stream-

194

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

lets of Rysdael, or to the herbacious richness of Cuyp.
I admit, however, that this delicious morceau of land*
scape was greatly indebted, for its enchanting effect^ to
the blue splendour of the sky, and the soft temperature
of the air; while the fragrance of every distended bios*
som added vastly to the gratification of the beholder.
But it is time to descend from this elevation^ and to
think of reaching Duclair.

DucLAiR is situated close to the very borders of the
Seine, which has now an absolutely lake-like appear-
ance. We stopped at the auberge to rest our horses ;
and Mr. Lewis, as usual, betook himself to some fa-
vourable spot, at a small distance^ for the sake of exer-
cising his pencil. Meanwhile I commenced a dis-
course with the master of the inn and with his daugh^
ter ; the latter, a very respectable-looking and well-be-
haved young woman of about twenty-two years of age.
She was preparing a large crackling wood-fire to dress
a fish, called the Alose, for the passengers of the dili^
gence — who were expected within half an hour. The
French think they can never butter their victuals
sufficiently ; and it would have produced a spasmodic
affection, in a thoroughly bilious spectator, could he
have seen the enormous piece of butter which this ac-
tive young cuisini^re thought necessary to put into
the pot in which the ^ Alose' was to be boiled. She
laughed at the surprise I expressed; and added
^*qu*on ne pent rien faire dans la cuisine sans le
bewre." You ought to know, by the bye, that the Alose^
something like our mackerel in flavour, is a large
and delicious fish ; and that we were always anxious
to bespeak it at the table-d'hdte at Rouen. Extricated

DUCLAIR.

195

from the lake of butter in which it floats, when brought
upon table, it is not only a rich, but a very substantial
fish ; and I give it decidedly the preference to all the
items of every bill of fare presented to us by Juliana
Bemers or Isaac Walton.

The auberge is situated at the base of rather a lofty
chalk cliff, close to the road side; and the opposite
side of the road is washed by the waters of the Seine.
I took a chair and sat in the open air, by the side of
the door— enjoying the breeze, and much disposed to
gossip with the master of the place. Perceiving this,
he approached, and addressed me with a pleasant
degree of famiharity. " You are from London, then,
SirT ''I am." "Ah Sir, I never think of London
but with the most painful sensations.** " How so ?"
" Sir, I am the sole heir of a rich banker who died in
that city before the Revolution. He was in partner*
ship with an English gentleman. Can you possibly
advise and assist me upon the subject?** I told
him that my advice and assistance were literally
not worth a sous ; but that, such as they were, he was
perfectly welcome to both. " Your daughter Sir, is
not married ?** — " Non, Monsieur, elle n'est pas encore
^pous^e : mais je lui dis qu*elle ne sera jamais heurewe
avant qu*elle ne le soit.** The daughter, who had
overheard the conversation, came forward, and look •
ing over her shoulder very archly, replied — " ou tnal^
heureuse, mon p^re !'* In the discourse which followed,
the worthy innkeeper seemed wholly to forget all the
agonies of disappointment in not succeeding as heir to
the rich banker in London. Nevertheless, I am far
from accusing him of felsehood . . . but the French

196

BOUEN TO HAVRE.

Steadily looked forwards to Jumieges. " We will eat
onr cold fowl and drink onr vin ordinaire upon tbe
grass within the walls of the abbey/' said I to my
companion : The Marchioness (rejoined he) can
afford us nothing so delightful.'" Unchivalrous reply !
The road became more and more circuitous. We
ascended very sensibly — ^then striking into a sort of
bye-road, in a field, we were told that we should

former, but to retain the latter : see pages 259> 26 1 , of the work
just mentioned. Yet William Longesp^e, and his Son William, have
doubtless better claims than either although not a restige remains
of the building as it appeared in the times of the more andent
Rulers of Normandy. I do not conceive indeed that any present
portion of the ruins can be older than the beginning of the xiitfa cen-
tury. That Clovifl may have been the original planner of the Abbey
should seem to be not very improbable, from the following verses,
taken from an old MS. Life of St. Bathilde, the wife and Queen of
the French King :

Jumegia ex natis Godouaei dicta Gemellis :
Aucta refiilgebat nongentis fratribos olim.

It must have been in Rollo*s time, therefore, a noble establishment.
Rollo is indeed considered as the great restorer of religious edifices
in Normandy:

Tunc fieri delubra iubet, cellasque, domofique;
Multaque rcstituit, priscis subuersa minis
Prsedia, diuitla8, quo possent qofistibus absque,
Quique Monoptolemi sedusam ducere vitam.

Protinhs artificas sponsa mercedc labori,
Structuras renouare parant arctando minori
Schemate, limitibus, domumque lodque tenore
Archetypum : tandem fobrefiacti encoenia Templi,

&c. &c. &c. Neustria Pia, p. 306.

William, sumamed Longespde, was the son of Rollo ; and it is
just possible that he may have the most effectually contributed to the
building of the Abbey. The first Abbot was Martinus ; or rather St.
Martin — for, like St. Ouen» and the generality of first Abbots^ he was

ABBEY OF JUMIEGES.

190

quickly reach the place of our destination. A frac^
tured capital^ and broken shafts of the late Norman
time, left at random beneath a hedge^ seemed to bespeak
the vicinity of the abbey. We then gained a height^
whence, looking straight forward, we caught the first
giance of the spires, or rather of the small towers of the
Abbey of Jumieges.* La voiU, Monsieur," — exclaim-
ed the postilion — increasing both his speed and the
flourishes of his whip—" voil^ la belle Abbayel'*

It was indeed " beautiful" or " fine :" but these are
words which carry force only by association of ideas.
It hud been questionless most beautiful. The grey or
almost white tint of the stone, contrasted by the wood-
covered hills, in which the monastery seemed to be
embosomed, struck us with peculiar force : " if these
are end-towers (observed my companion) the central
tower, now destroyed, must have been of very large
dimensions." We approached and entered the village
of Jumieges. Leaving some pretty houses to the right
and left, among which is a parsonage residence of
more than usually comfortable appearance for France,

canonized. Among the grants of privileges^ &c. is one from our
Henry T. " Not only (says Du Monstier) did the Norman Dukes love
Ihe locality of> and largely endow^ the Abbey of Jumieges, but even the
Kings of France— and chiefly Charles VII. — ^who erected there a reli-
gious house which was standing in Du Monstiers time — not however
without affording evidence of the ravages committed upon it by the
Calvinists in the xvith century. It is above observed that Aones
80RBL (mistress of Charles) was buried in the Abbey.

* Mr. Cotman has published etchings of the West Eront : the Towers,
aomewhat fore-shortened 5 the Elevation of the Nave — and doorway of
the Abbey : the latter an extremely interesting specimen of art. A
somewhat particular and animated description of it will be found in
LAeut, BalXi Ttaoeltin France, 8vo. p. 57, 1819.

200

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

we descended — and drove to a snug aubei^ evidently
a portion of some of the outer buildings^ or of
the chapter-house^ attached to the Abbey. A large
gothic roof^ and central pillar^ upon entering, un-
equivocally attest the ancient character of the place.
The whole struck us as having been formerly of very
great dimensions. It was a glorious sun-shiny af-
ternoon, and the villagers quickly crowded round
the cabriolet. Voil^ Messieurs les Anglois^ qui
viennent voir FAbbaye— mais effectivement il n*y a
rien k voir.'* I told the landlady the object of our
visit. She procured us a guide and a key : and within
.five minutes we entered the nave of the abbey.

Sacred be the moment, and serene be the heavens^ on
the first view of this interior ! I can never forget it. It
has not the magical effect, or that sort of artificial burst,
which attends the first view of Tintem abbey: but, as the
ruin is larger, there is necessarily more to attract atten-
tion. Like Tintem also, it is unroofed — ^yet this unroof-
ing has proceeded from a different cause : of which pre-
sently. The side aisles present you with a short flat-
tened arch : the nave has none : but you observe a long
pilaster-like or alto-relievo column, of slender dimen-
sions, running from bottom to top, with a sort of Ro-
man capital. The arched cieling and roof are entirely
gone. We proceeded towards the eastern extremity,
and saw more frightful ravages both of time and of ac-
cident. The latter however had triumphed over the
former : but for accident you must read revolutum.

On the first view of each surrounding object, we
were struck with a variety of sensations. In the land
of Normandy — the land of castles and cathedrals —

ABBEY OF JUMIB6ES. 201

we fwcied a higher tone of feeling was connected
with every thing we saw. But this was only the
venial enthusiasm of young travellers. The day had
been rather oppressive for a May morning ; and we
were getting far into the afternoon^ when clouds
began to gather^ and the sun became occasionally
obscured. We seated ourselves upon a grassy hillock^
and began to prepare for cUnner. To the left of us
lay a huge pile of fragments of pillars and groin-
ings of arches — the effects of recent havoc : to the
right, within three yards, was the very spot in which
the celebrated Agnes Sorel, Mistress of Charles VII.,
lay entombed : — not a relic of mausoleum now marking
the place where, formerly, the sculptor had exhibited
the choicest efforts of his art, and the devotee had
f^mired to

Breathe a prayer for her soul — and pass on !

What a contrast, my dear friend, to the present aspect
of things! — ^to the mixed rubbish and wild flowers with
which every spot is now well nigh covered ! The mis-
tress of the inn having furnished us with napkins and
tumblers, we partook of our dinner, surrounded by
the objects just described, with no ordinary sensations,
llie first and only sentiment which we drank, was,
(naturally I would hope) " dear Old England, and all
that it contains — more enthusiastic toper would
have drunk to the memories of those who slept within
the walls of the abbey — ^but we were content to sacrifice
Uie unknown dead to the cherished living. Yet I
will not conceal that, more than once or twice, I felt
a sort of romantic twinge come across me, which had

VOL. I. N

202

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

nearly induced me to make a libation to . . • Bat it
was only a twinge — and, like twinges in general, was
perfectly evanescent.

llie air now became oppressive ; when, looking
through the few remaining unglazed mullions of the
windows, I observed that the clouds grew darker and
darker, while a faint rumbling of thunder reached
our ears. The sun however yet shone gaily, although
paitially ; and as the storm neared us, it floated as it
were round the abbey — affording, by means of its
purple, black colour, contrasted with the pale tint of the
walls,— one of the most beautiful painter-like effects
ima^nable. Mr. L. started up from his seat to enjoy a
more general view : but I was unwilling to quit the
vicinity of Agnes Sorel — and remained tranquilly upon
the hillock, even though two smart flashes of lightning
had come across me. In an instant almost — and as
if touched by the wand of a mighty necromancer —
the whole scene became metamorphosed. The thunder
growled, but only growled — and the threatening pha-
lanx of sulphur-charged clouds rolled away — and
melted into the quiet uniform tint which usually
precedes sun-set. Our dinner being dispatched, we
rose to make a thorough examination of the ruins which
had survived .... not only the Revolution, but the
cupidity of the present owner of the soil — ^who is a
rich man, living at Rouen — and who loves to dispose
of any portion of the stone, whether standing or pros-
trate, for the sake of the lucre, however trifling,
which arises from the sale. Surely the whole cor-
poration of the city of Rouen, with the mayor at

ABfiEY OF JUMIE6ES. 208

their head^ ought to stand between this ruthless ri^
iban/* and the abbey — ^the victini of his brutal avarice
and want of taste.

We ascended the worn stone steps of the left tower
of the western extremity as you enter, and walked over
the ardied roof of the sid6 aisles^ which was covered
with earth, grass, weeds, and wild flowers. There is
nothing above it ; so that^ in a short time, from its
es^posure to the vicissitudes of weather^ it must soon
^ve way, and add to the enoripous heap of rubbish
below. Indeed^ in one part, (but I forget over which of
tile aisles) there is a frightful fracture, or opening,
threatening to precipitate several ton weight of the
MOf. The right tower is inaccessible of ascent ; but
we pursued our spiral route to the very top of the
left ; and, from its summit, enjoyed a glorious view
of every thing immediately below and around us. The
abbey had a most interesting but somewhat terrific ap-
pearance. Nearly the whole of the eastern extremity
was in ruins: — ^while, in the centre, the portion of the
laptem, or square tower, which remained, denoted the
extent of its original dimensions. The nave was en-
tirely unroofed ; — and indeed not a single fragment of
any portion of the roof was visible. Such a scene of sa-
crilegious desolation can scarcely be conceived. What
had been the abbot's lodge, the refectory, the chapter-
house and cloisters, with all their appurtenances, is
now perhaps only matter of conjecture : but the mate-
rials are in a very entire state — that is to say, the stone
is yet hard, close-grained, and of a beautiful creamy tint.

The situation of the abbey is delightful. It lies at the
bottom of some gently undulating hjills, within two or

204

ROUEN TO HAVRE-

three hundred yards of the Seine. The river here nms
gently, in a serpentine direction, at the foot of wood-
covered hills — and all seemed, from our elevated sta-
tion, indicative of fruitfulness, of gaiety, and of pros-
perity,— all — save the mournful and magnificent
remains of the venerable abbey whereon we gazed ! —
In fact, Jumieges exists only as a shell. We descended^
strolled about the village, (taking every possible view
of the Abbey) and mingled in the conversation of the
villagers. It was a lovely approach of evening — and
men, women, and children were seated, or sauntering
in the open air. Perceiving we were anxious to gain
information, they flocked around us — and from one
man, in particular, I obtained exact intelligence about
the havoc which had been committed during the Revo-
lution upon the abbey. The roof had been battered
down for the sake of the lead — ^to make bullets ; the
pews, altars, and iron-work, had been converted into
other destructive purposes of warfare; and the great
bell had been sold to some speculators in a cannon-
foundery at Rouen. The revolutionary mania had
even brutalized the Abbot. This man, who must be
considered as

damned to everlasting fame,

had been a monk of the monastery ; and as soon as he
had attained the headship of it, he took it into his
head to dispose of every tangible and moveable piece of
furniture, to gratify the revolutionary pack which were
daily howling at the gates of the abbey for entrance!
Nor could he plead compulsion as an excuse. He
seemed to enjoy the work of destruction, of which he
had the absolute direction. But enough of this wretch.

CAUDEBEC.

905

Having gratified our curiosity, as much as we were
enabled, rather than as much as we wished, to do—
we returned to the cabaret : ordered the horses, and
prepared to quit Jumieges for Caudebec. The land-
lady seemed loath to part with us, — tant elle aima
Messieurs les Anglois qui venoient voir sa ch^re Abbaye
de Jnmieges !** In five minutes we retraced our route
through the village, and bade adieu to the Abbey . .

a long and lingering adieu" — while the two slim
western towers seemed to requite us for our solicitude
by keeping in view whenever we chose to look behind
—even till we came within a league of our next resting^
place.

That resting-place was Caudebec; and the road
thereto, from the spot we had just quitted, was, if pos-
sible, more interesting than the preceding route. The
son was about to sink into the waters of the Seine :
—which were in one warm crimson hue for the last
hour before we reached Caudebec. An evening of un-
uraal serenity— or rather of splendour — crowned the
gratifications of this busy day. The road was fre-
quently winding ; but in general we kept pretty close
to the banks of the Seine — on the opposite side
of which, within about a league of Caudebec, we saw
the chateau and terrace of the Marquise of (men-
tioned a few minutes ago) whither many English resort,
and where fruit trees and flowers rejoice the wondering
eye and make sweet the circumambient air ! A ferry
conducts you straight to the spot — ^which my imagina-
tion peopled with valorous knights and courtly dames.
Indeed I almost sighed as I passed this supposed ma-
gical residence . . • and pressed onwards for Caudebec.

206

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

Caudebec is a very considerable village^ or rather a
small town. You go down a steep descent, on entering
it by the route *we came. As you look about, there
are singular appearances on all sides — of houses, and
hanging gardens, and elaborately cut avenues — ^upon
summits, declivities, and on the plain. But the charm
of the view, at least to my old-fashioned eyes, was a
fine old gothic church, and a very fine spire of what
appeared to belong to another. As the evening had
completely set in, we resolved to reserve our admiration
of the place till the morrow. We had forgotten the
Bame of the best inn — always a most important me-
mento—and acqprdingly, in compliance with the in-
structions received from the people in the street, we
drove to the first auberge which presented itself. It
was certainly of the sorriest possible aspect, and of the
most straightened dimensions. But we were tired, and
heartily glad of a resting-place. After securing beds,
we strolled about the village. An avenue of trees,
close to the water's edge, (I am speaking of the Seine)
quickly caught our attention — and the light from a
spruce calffi^e as quickly induced us to enter and be-
speak refreshment. It was now quite dark. Remote
as was this solitude, and humble as appeared almost
every mansion, we were equally surprised and delighted
by the appearance of neatness and comfort of every
thing within this cofiee-house. We ordered tea: when
the sound of this well-known English beVerage brought
forth a middle-aged, respectable looking woman, who
addressed us in French — ^which instantly struck me asl
an Anglo-gallican melange. My reply helped to throw
off the mask completely ; and we were glad to recog-

CAUDEBEC.

207

nise each other as English. She told us she had been
fourteen years domesticated in that mansion, of which
the mistress was a woman of beauty and virtue, but
overwhelmed with misfortune — " but," says she, " let
me go and tell the girl how to make your tea, and then
we will talk more at leisure/'

On her return, we quickly resumed our promis-
cuous chit-chat. To be sure she dearly loved talking :
but the tea was good, and so was the cream, and so
were the eggs, and eke the bread and butter : — and a
delicious repast we made. Meanwhile some straggling,
countrified-looking customers, camerwith their sous to
enjoy their draught of eau de vie, but without the least
tendency to inebriety. Tliere was a brightly-burn-
ing lamp suspended to the cieling of the coffee house,
and as Englishmen were rarely seen in the retired
village of Caudebec, these customers gazed at us with
a wonder-smitten eye. " You must come to-morrow
morning and take your coffee here" — observed our
good countr}'woman — they make excellent coffee at
this house." We agreed to come on the morrow to
breakfast, and so took our leave : retiring to our humble
auberge, where two good beds, and sheets yet whiter
than the freshest looking remaining stone in the abbey
of Jumieges, awaited our return. Here I finished the
journal of the occurrences of the day before I went to
rest. . . • and here methinks is a fair and fitting oppor-
tunity to wish my friend good night. So fare you
well : and open the leaves of your Neush*ia PiOy to
make yourself master of the Antiquities of the Abbey

OF JUMIEGKS.

206

LETTER XL

CAUDEBEC. LILLfiBONNE. BOLBEC. TANKAi|VILLB.
MONTMORBNCI CASTLE. HAVRE DE GRACE.

My last concluded with a night-scene at Caudebec.
The present opens with a morning scene at the same
place. Mr. Lewis, who generally contrives to borrow
the wings of the lark, was stirring before six o'clock :
and put his pencil in requisition a very short time after
he had reached a fdvoumble spot. I told you in my last
that Caudebec was a sort of an up-and-down place :
nith hanging gardens, villas, and commanding terraces.
Upon one of these latter, Mr. L. took liis station. It
commanded a good bird's-eye view of the principal
rtreet in the town. The sun was shining beautifully
bright, lighting up the broad meandering Seine, the
tower, and spire of the church, and the curiously cut
avenues of the public gardens : which latter, indeed,
have the effect, upon paper, of an ancient aqueduct.
In the foreground, upon the walled terrace, some
girls were sitting and gathering vegetables. One of
them was reading. A dexterous aitist knows how to
seize such an opportunity — and accordingly Mr. L
contrived to put his whole picture together in a man-
ner which perfectly enchanted me — when we met at the
foi*ementioned caffie at breakfast. Look at it — * and
fastidious as you are, dare you ventui'e to say that it
hath a single defect ?

• Sec the Oi*posit£ Plate.

CAUDEBEC. 209

I was however myself, for a miracle, stirring before
line. The church was the first object of attraction.
For the size of the place, it is really a noble structure :
3erhaps of the early part of the sixteenth, or latter part
y[ the fifteenth century. I speak of the exterior gene-
rally, and of a great portion of the interior. A little
shabby green-baise covei-ed door (as usual) was half
open, and I entered with no ordinary expectations
of gratification. The painted glass seemed abso-
lutely to warm the place — so rich and varied were
its colours. ThM*e is a great abundance of it, andespe*
cially of figures of families kneeling — rather small, but
with great appearance of portrait-like fidelity. They
are chiefly of the first half of the sixteenth century : and
I own that, upon gazing at these charming specimens of
ancient painting upon glass, I longed to fix an artist
before every window, to bear away triumphantly,
in a portfolio of elephantine dimensions, a fiEiithful copy
of almost every thing I saw. In some of the counter-
nances, I &ncied I traced the pencil of Lucas Cra-
NACH — and even of Hans Holbein. But I must not
omit informing you of an interesting occurrence,
which helped to give additional magic to the scene. I
have told you that, in France, there is a perpetual in-
gress and egress of devotees— especially of females.
The nave and aisles are plentifully sprinkled with rush-
bottomed chairs, upon which the devotees kneel —
but always with a slanting or see-saw position of the
chair. Upon one of these chairs, in such slanting posi-
tion, knelt a young woman of the most regular set of
features and interesting expression. Her profile, even
to your own severe taste, might have been considered

210 ROUEN TO HAVRE.

perfect. She had large circular ear-rings, and was
dressed in the Norman attire of blue and crimson.
Her lips appeared to be exercised in prayer before a
statue of the Virgin, and her raised eye and clasped
hands denoted an intensity of devotion. The sun shone
full upon the window which faced her, and which threw
a warmth of colour over her whole figure. Her eye
turned towards me, but her lips and hands were yet
occupied in devotion. Perhaps, for effect, no devo-
tional figure ever presented itself in a more interesting
manner — both personally and locally considered.

This church has numerous side chapels, and figures
of patron-saints. The entombment of Christ in white
marble, (at the end of the chapel of the Virgin,)
is rather singular ; inasmuch as the figure of Christ
itself is ancient, and exceedingly fine in anatomical
expression ; but the usual surrounding figures are mo-
dern, and proportionably clumsy and inexpressive.
I noted one mural monument, to the memory of GrutL-
laume TeUier, which was dated 1184. This date was
undoubtedly only a repetition of the ancient one. Few
churches have more highly interested me, than this at
Caudebec* From the church I strolled to the Place,
where stood our calBK, by the banks of the Seine. The
morning view of this scene perfectly delighted me.
Nothing can be more picturesque; The river cannot
be much less than a mile in width, and it makes a per-
fect bend in the form of a crescent. On one side, that
on which the village stands, are walks and gardens

* the Church at Caudebec,'] — ^Lieutenant Hall has weU described it.
I did not see his description till more than a twelremonth alter mj

CAUDEBEC.

211

through which peep numerous white villas — and on
the other are meadows, terminating in lofty rising
grounds — ^feathered with coppice-wood down to the
very water's edge. This may be considered^ in fact,
only a portion of the vast Forest de Breione, which
rises in wooded majesty on the opposite heights. As
the morning was fine, the effect was really exhilarating:
but the recollection of Richmond Hill suggested to me
how this infinitely more magnificent sweep of river*
would have been improved, in a picturesque point of
view, by vessels and sailing bolfts, with gay streamers,
in perpetual motion ! The spirit and the wealth of our
countrymen would make Caudebec one of the most
enchanting summer-residences in the world. The po-
pulation of the town is estimated at about five thousand*
We assembled at the caff€ a little after nine, and
there met the good Englishwoman who had procured

own had been written. A part may be worth extracting The
principal object of attraction is the Church^ the gothic spire of whid^
is encircled by fillets of roses^ beautifidly carved in stone, and conti-
nued to the very summit of the steeple. The principal portal too is
•colptured with no less richness and delicacy than that of St. Macloud
al Rouen. Its interior length is about 250 feet by 72 of width. The
central aisle [nave] is flanked on either side by ten massive circular
columns, the capitals of which represent vine leaves and other decora-
tions, more fanciful, and not less rich, than the Corinthian acanthus . .
In one of the chapels there is a rude monumental effigy of the original
architect of this church. It consists of a small skeleton, drawn in
black lines, against a tablet in the wall : a mason^s level and trowel,
with the plan of a building, are beside it, and an inscription in gothic
characters, relating that the architect endowed the church he had built
with certain lands, and died Anno 1184.'* Travels tn France, p. 47,
1819, 8vo. I take this to be Guillaume Tbllie*— mentioned above.

212

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

us tea according to art** the preceding evening. The
coffee, I must own, was even better than we were
taught to expect. Our conversation was directed
chiefly to a knowledge of the locale, and of the general
character of the inhabitants. There was a brewery;
which, said our loquacious guide, was conducted by a
Scotchman; who had also entered into partnership in the
coal trade. This latter will excite your astonishment
— considering that Normandy abounds in woods. But
the truth is, the present generation is entirely thought-
less of that which is succeed. Within the imme-
diate vicinity of great towns, even of Rouen, the coun-
try is denuded of trees; and yet no one thinks of
planting. Thus, let only twenty-five years pass away,
and where will be the Frenchman's fuel ? Even as it
is, that article is of excessive high price — through-
out the whole of France. Understanding that our
friends in * * * * * had some thoughts of hiring a house
for the summer in this neighbourhood, I told our iiemale
acquaintance of the circumstance, and begged that
she would interest herself for me. LiCt us," said she,
^^set off immediately — for at this precise moment,
there is an excellent vacant residence close to the river
side.*' We paid our reckoning, (three francs a-head)
and left the coffee-house immediately.

But judge of my astonishment, when, on going out
of doors, I saw the river in a state of extreme agitation:
the whole mass of water rising perpendicularly, as it
wei-e, and broad rippling waves rolling over each other.
It was the coming in of the tide .... and within a
quarter of an hour it appeared to have risen upwards
of two feet. You may remember that, in our own

CAUDEBEC.

213

country^ the Severn-tides exhibit the same phenome-
non; and I have seen the river at Gloeester rise at
once to the height of eight or ten feet, throwing up a
shower of foam fipom the gradually narrowing bed of
the river, and causing all the craft, great and small, to
rise up as if by magic, and to appear upon a level with
the meadows. The tide at Caudebec, though similar in
kind, was not so in degree ; for it rose gradually yet
most visibly — and by the time we had reached the

house to let," the elevation could not have been less
than seven or eight feet.

As you ought to have a picture of a bettermost
house to let in Normandy, you must read patiently
what follows. An outer-wall with a carriage entrance
first arrested our attention. We could not see what
iFas behind — and omne ignotum pro magnifico** you
know. We pulled a wire, expecting that wire to
cause a bell to sound; but we pulled a long time with-
out being favoured with any such sound. Effects are
tmly adequate to their causes, and vice versa. Now the
bell happened to have no connection with the wire,
simply because the wire happened to have no connec-
tion with the bell: in other words, because the said
wipe had been broken these six months. We knocked
with our fists, and obtained admission. To the left
was. a remise, or place to put a carriage in : above
was a good hay loft, and below was a stall (without
divisions, as usual) for five horses. The mansion
house was long and low: covered with white thick
Venetian blinds, half open, and half in want of re-
pair. The suite of apartments was considerable, but
in a most melancholy looking plight : the furniture be-

214

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

low was withdrawn. • The dining room, with a brick
floor, was of goodly dimensions — and the end-rooms
were in the character of bondoirs. The kitchen,
liard by, exhibited but sorry capabilities — and neither
spit, pot, nor pan, was visible. Above stairs, there were
bed rooms furnished with beds, and a good drawing
room — ^with yellow velveteen furniture, even to the
bottoms of the chairs. The view of the garden, and
of the river, immediately in front, was extremely in-
teresting— and English neatness would have ren-
dered the former a little " paradise of sweets.** The
end rooms, like those below, in the character of
boudoirs, had each a view of the bend of the river ;
— and that, to the left, might have warmed the most
cold-hearted observer of nature. The situation was un-
doubtedly charming; but a rubbishing look pervaded
even the very laburnums, which were streaming with
gold. As for the box, which flanked the gravel walks,
both box and walk wanted a thorough revolutionising —
in other words, clipping, turning up, and rolling. Thf
furniture must have been hired ; and exclusively of
this extra cost, we were told that the house could not
bie let for three months under forty Napoleons : — ^un^
doubtedly a very considerable price for the remote
town of Caudebec.

Having followed up this expedition by a walk upon
the heights of the town, with which I was much grati-
fied, we returned to our humble auberge, ordered the
cabriolet to be got ready, and demanded the reckon-
ing : — which, considering that we were not quite at an
hdtel-royale, struck us as being far from moderate.
Two old women, of similar features and age, presented

CAUDEBEC.

215

themselves as we were getting into the carriage: one
was the mistress, and the other the fiUe de chambre.
" Mais, Monsieur (observed one of them) n'oubliez
pes^je vous prie, la-fille-de-chambre — rappellez-vons
que vos souliers ont et€ sup^rieurcment d^crott^s.'* I
took ont a franc to remunerate the supposed fille-de-
diambre — but was told it was the mistress. N'importe,
Monsieur, c'est k ce moment que je suis fille-de-cham-^
bre— qnand vous serez parti, je serai la mattresse.'*
Hie postillion seemed to enjoy this reparteee as much
as ourselves : and bidding adieu to the worthy English-
woman, who had so long resided in this place, and who
appeared to look upon her countrymen as the rarest of
all rare birds, we started forward for Lillebonnb.

We were scarcely out of the town half a mile, when
we began to ascend. We found ourselves quickly in
die middle of those rising grounds which are seen from
the promenade or Place du CaffSy and could not look
nithout extraordinary gratification upon the beautiAil
sliaracter of spring in its matured state. The larch
tru even yet picturesque: the hazel and nut trees
irere perfectly clothed with foliage, of a tender yet
joyous tint : the chestnut was gorgeously in bloom ; the
[kne and beech were beginning to give abundant pro-
miale of their future luxuriance — while the lowlier tribes
df laburnum and box, with their richly clad branches,
covered the ground beneath entirely from view,
rhe apple and pear blossoms still continued to varie-
^te the wide sweep of foliage, and to fill the mr with
their delicious perfume. It might be Switzerland in
niniature— or it might not. Only this I know — ^that
it seemed as though one could live embosomed and en-

216

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

chanted in such a wilderness of sweets — ^reading the
fabliaux of the*old Norman bards till the close of hu-
man existence. We continued visibly, and even
sharply^ to ascend ; and when we caught glimpses of
the reach or winding of the river, nothing more beauti-
fully picturesque could be imagined. But it was a
picture of Spring scenery — ^lighted up by a bright bhic
sky, and golden glow of sun shine. Nor must my fiu
vourite church, before so particularly described, be
forgotten in this joy-inspiring panorama. It stood,
grey and venerable, (yet full of projecting gothic or-
nament), like age in the mi^st of youth : attemp»ii^
and harmonising every thing around it. Still we con-
tinued to mount higher and higher. We had some
time past quitted the cabriolet, and walked on foot.

Ma foi Messieurs (exclaimed our postillion) il me
paroit que nous aliens monter jusqu*au ciel.** Mais
pour mes pauvres chevaux. Monsieur — ^ils seront bien
fiatigu^. II faut qu'ils mangent un bon din6.'* Us
le mangeront k Lillebonne,** replied I. — A la bonne
heure, done. Messieurs, montez, je vous prie : Lille-
bonne est un pen loin d*ici— et pour y arriver k midi,
il faut les fouett^r un pen."' So saying, we mounted —
having gained the summit, and one of the animals be-
coming hot and I'esti ve, the postillion forgot all his com-
passionate feelings, and never ceased to belabour him,
with spur and whip, at a smart gallop, for nearly half
a French league. In five minutes we left all that was
picturesque behind us ; and striking ojflf through bye-
roads, across fields, (of which every inch was in an ad-
mirable state of cultivation) enquired at almost every
turn for the nearest route to Lillebonne.

LILLEBONNE.

217

We found ourselves on a hard, strait, chalky old
road— evidently Roman : and in due time perceived
and entered the town of Lillbbonnb. But the sky had
become overcast : soft and small rain was descending,
and an unusual gloom prevailed • • . when we halted,
agreeably to onr instructions, immediately before the
gate of the ancient Castle.* Venerable indeed is this
Norman castle, and extensive are the ruins which
have survived. I shall never forget how it peeped
odt npon us — through the light leaf of the pop-
lar, and the pink blossom of the apple. It lies
ckwe to the road, on the left. An old round tower,
apparently of the time of William the Conqueror,
very soon attracts your attention. The stones are
large, and the interstices are also very considerable.
It was here, says a yet current report, that William
aasembled the Barons of Normandy, and the invasion
of England was determined upon. Such a spot thens-
fore strikes an English beholder with no ordinary
emotions. We alighted; sent the cabriolet to the inn,
and wished both postillion and horses to get their
dinners without delay. For ourselves, we had resolved

• the andeni Caitle,']—Tbis Castle is well described by Lieut.
HaU; who has also given a wood-cut representation, but in too rude a
manner, of the discovered walls in the ai^acent Raman theatre. He
thinks this latter the Julia Bona of Ptolemy and Antoniniis. He
supposes the old circular Norman tower, above mentioned, to be the
doi\)on-keep. Upon the key-stone of the vaulting of the upper story,
which had fallen in, was carved an escutcheon, bearing quarterly 1
and 4, three manacles upon barulets; 3 and 3, five bosses, (peihaps
besaats) with an escutcheon of pretence, three banilets.**

Traioels in Erance, p, 58.

VOL I. O

2ia ROUEN TO HJlVBE.

to reserve our appetites till we reached Bolbec;
and there 'was food enough before us^ of a different
description^ to exercise our intellectual digestioa fi>rat
least the next coming hour. We knocked at the mas^
sre portals, and readily obtained admittance.

The area, entirdy a grass-plat, was occupied
several cows. Be£Dre us were evidently the . ruins of a
large chapel or church — ^perhaps of the xivth centmy.
The outer foce of the walls went deeply and perpendh>
cularly down to the bottom of a dry fosse ; and.theri^
angle portion of the building was covered with garden
ground, where the owner showed us some peas, winch
be boasted he should have at his table within fiie.
days. I own I thought he was. very likely to carry hit
boast into execution ; for finer vegetables, or a finer
bed of earth, I had scarcely ever noticed. How tfaii^
my dear friend,^ are changed from their original
Fueter and destination I But the okl round tower/*
say you ! — to the old round tower** then let us ga
Tlie stair-case is narrow, dark, and decayed. We
reached the first floor, or circular room, and Mr. L.
made a rough drawing of the peculiarity of the eon<^
struction of the window seats — all of rough, solid, and
massive stone. No silken settees, or chintz sofas, ever
adorned the interior of this prison-like abode! We
ascended to the second floor; which, if I remember
rightly, was strewn with a portion of the third floor —
that had fallen in from sheer decay. Great must have
been the crash — as the fragments were huge, and
widely scattered. On gaining a firm footing upon the
outer wall, through a loop-hole window^ we gazed
around us with equal wonder and delight. Bunches

LILLEBOMMB.

ttw^SM&w», in ftiU bloom, were growiog at our feet,
ttd tf^iaBftg OS #itb tiseir fingnntie ; ttrfaile Rhi'abs of
different species had contrived to take root in the in-
iWWtfCiLtf 6t the wall, tad t6 make otir immecfiate fore-
grotfnd a retyresentation of youth compared with old
age, • • . the latter arising from the character of the sur-
fomiding ruins. The wall of this round castle could
Mfc be le89 than ten feet in thickness. A yonng woman,
tte riiq>er4cft of the spot, attended us as guide.

^ What kF that irregular rude mound, or wall of
€Hith, in' the centre of which children are playing
^It is the old Raman Theatre^ Sir.** 1 immediate^
ealled to mind M. Le Prevost^s instructions — and if I
imild have borrowed the wings of a ^irit, I shoidd
have instantly alighted upon the spot— but it was situ-
ated inthout the precincts of the old castle and its ap^
jjMUtenances, and a mortal leap would have been at-
tended with a mortal result. Have you many English
who visit this q)ot?** said I to my guide. — Scarcely
aogr, Sir-4t is a frightful place — ^friU of desolation and
sadncgs . .** replied she. We gazed around, and in the
Asfance, through an aperture in the orchard trees, we
mW the little fishing village of Quillebettfy* quite bu-
ried^ as it were, in the waters of the Seine. An arm
of the nxer meanders towards Lillebonne. Having
gtalified oor picturesque and antiquarian propensities,
from this elevated situaticm, we retrod, with more dif-

* ihe UHU fahmg vUlage of QtitUe6etif:]— -Small as naay be thk
tilli^ and inwgnificant as may be its aspect, it is one of themodt im-.
pnrtant plag<a, with respect to navigatioD, in the vrhxAe course of thi6'
river Seine, Seven yeais a^ theie were not fewer than fimr-Memrt

220

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

ficulty than toil, our steps down the stair-case. A
second stroll about the area, and along the skirtazof

pilots settled here> by order of goTemmeat, for the purpose of goaid-
ing against accidents which arise from a want of knowledge of th^
navigation of the river. In time of peace this nmnber would necessa-
rily be increased. In the year 1789 there were upwards of 250 Eng-
lish vessels which passed it — averaging, in the whole, 19,000 tons.
It is from QuiUebeuf to Havre that the accidents arise. The author of
a pompous, but very instructive memoir, " Sur la Topographie et la
SiatUtique de la Ville de QuiUebeuf et de Vembauchure de la Seine,
aifont pour objet-principal la navigation et la peM" (published in the
Transactions of the Rouen Society for the year 1812, and from which
the foregoing information has been obtained) mentions three or four
weeks which have taken place in the Immediate vicinity of Quillebeaf :
and it should seem that a calm is, of all things, the most fotal. The
currents are strong, and the vessel is left to the mercy of the ti^es
in consequence. There are also rocks and sand banks in abundancer
Among the wrecks, was one in which a young girl of eighteen
years of age fell a victim to the ignorance of the pilot. The vessel
made a false tack between Hode and TancarviUe, and running upon a
bank was upset in an instant. An English vessel once shared the same
calamity. A thick fog suddenly came on, when the sloop ran upon a bank
near the Nez de Tancarville, and the crew had just time to throw them-
selves into the boat and escape destruction. The next mornings so
sudden and so decisive was the change wrought by the sand and cur-
rent, that, of the sloop, there remained, at ebb-tide, only ten feet of
her mast visible ! It appears that the QuUlebois, owing to their de-
tached situation, and their peculiar occupations, speak a Very bar-
barous French. They have a sort of sing-song method of pronuncia-
tion ; and the g and j are strangely perverted by them. Consult the
memoir here referred to ; which occupies forty octavo pages : and
which forms a sequel to a previous communication (in 1810) upon
the Topography and Medical properties of QuiUebeiif and its a4iacent
parts.*' The author is M. Boismare. His exordium is a spedm^ of
the very worst possible taste in composition !** One would suppose it
to be a prelude to an account of the discovery of anoUiflr Amerieai ! •

LILLEBONNE.

221

the wall, was sufficient to convince us only — ^how
sUgfat and imperfect had been our survey ! This I am
qute sure of : — our friend * * * * would have break-
ihsted, dined, and supped, within the walls of the
castle of Lillebonne : or, rather, he would have gone
without breakfast, dinner, and supper, could he only
have had a fair sky and a good Brookman and Lang^
ion pencil, with kindly drawing-paper, in his hand !

On quitting the portal through which we had en^
tered, and bidding adieu to our Shepherdess and guide,
we immediately hastened towards the Roman The-^
atre. The town of Lillebonne has a vastly pretty,
pi<!turesque appearance from the old mound, or raised
tarace, along the outer walls of the castle. In five
minutes we mingled with the school boys who were
amusing themselves within the ruins of all that is
left of this probably once vast and magnificent old
theatre. It is only by clearing away a great quantity
ci earth, with which these ruins are covered, that you
can correctly ascertain their character and state of
preservation. M. Le Prevost bade me remark that the
walls had much swerved from their original perpendi-
cularity,— and that there was much irregularity in the
laying of the bricks among the stones. But time, de-
sign, and accident, have each in turn (in all probabi-
lity) so contributed to decompose, defiice, and alter
the original aspect of the building, that there is no
forming a correct conjecture as to its ancient form.
Earth, grass, trees, flowers, and weeds, have taken
almost entire possession of some low and massive outer
wiiUs ; so th'at the imagination has full play to supply
aU defifciencies which appear to the eye.

m ROUEN TQ II^VRE.

From the whole of this interesting spot we retrestted,
with mixed sensations of melancholy and frarporisf-^
our little anberge of the Three NegroeSy in the ceatre
of the town. It had begun to rain smartly as we took
shelter in the kitchen — ^where^ for the first time sum
leaving England, I saw a display ofntensils which mjighl
have vied with our own, or even with a Dntch inteyior,
for neatness and order of disposition. Some oflhi
dishes might have been as ancient as — ^n<»t the M
Round Tower — but as the last English Duke of Nor^
mandy who might have banquetted there. The wiude
was in high polish and in full display. On my q«n»*
plimenting the good Aubergiste upon so creditable fi
sight, she laughed, and replied briskly — Ce ne'rt
rien, ceci : Pentecdte est tout pr^s, et done voua vwm,
Monsieur/' — It should seem that Whitsuntide was tb9
season for a general household purification. Some of
her furniture had once belonged to the Castle: but sli9
had bought it, in the scramble which took place at th^
dispersion and destruction of the move^les there^
during the Revolution. Wherever we went, traoes of
that curse of France seemed to come across us I I
recommend all travellers to take a lunch, and eiyoy a
bottle of vin ordinaire, at Les Trois Nigresr^^ we
did. I was obliged to summon up all my stock of
knowledge in polite phraseology, in order to d^cliw ft
plate of soup. It was delicious above every thii^
— but we had postponed taking dinner till we got
to Bolbec." " Bon — ^vous y trouverez un hotSl su-
perbe.'' We parted in the utmost good huinour^ upon
my making no doubt that her soup was the b«ipt in jtho
world.'' The French are easily pleased^ wid qivtfity is

BOLBEC.

223

00 cheap and tmrrent a coin abroad^ that I wish our
ooantrymen irould make use of it a little more fre-
qnently than th^ appear to do. We started about
tiro for Bolbec.

The rain continued during the ^hole of our route
thither ; but it did not prevent us from witnessii^g a
land of plenty and of picturesque beauty on all sides.
Indeed it is scarcely possible to conceive a more rich
aad luxuriant state of culture. To our left, about half
a league from Lillebdnne, we passed the domain of a
ttnce wealthy, and extremely ^tensive abbey. I think
Aey call it the Ahhey of Beauclois. A long rambling
kare stone wall, and portions of a deserted ruin, kept
ki right for fall half an English mile. What a country is
Normandy for ecclesiastical remains ! The immediate
approach to Bolbbc is that of the entrance to a modem
ud flourishing trading town, which seems to be be^
ginning to recover from the effects of the Revolu*'
tibn. After Rouen, and even Caudebec, it has a st^
modernized air. We drove to the principal inn>
^l^iosite the church, and bespoke dinner and beds^
The church is perfectly modem, and equally heavy
and large. Crowds of people were issuing from f^es-
pers ; when, ascending a flight of steps, (for it is built
on ground considerably above the ground-floor of the
inn) we resolved to wait for the final departure of the
congregation, and to take a leisurely survey of the in-
terior, while our dinner was getting ready.

The sexton was a perfect character in his way ; old,
shrewd, communicative, and civil. We saw several
confessionals. " What — you confess here pretty
muchr Yes, Sir; but chiefly females^ and among

224

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

them many widows.*" I had said nothing to provoke
this ungallant reply. In respect to the sacrament^
what is the proportion between the communicants,
as to sex " Sir, there are one hundred women ta
twelve men.** I wish I could say that this dispropor-
tion were confined to France.

We quitted this heavy and ugly, but large and com-
modious fabric, and betook ourselves to our inn and
dinner. The cook was in every respect a learned pro-
fessor in his art, and the produce of his skill was
equally excellent and acceptable. We had scarcely
finished our repast, and the Gruyere cheese and nuts
yet lingered upon our table, when the soft sounds of
an organ, accompanied by a youthful voice, saluted
our ears in a very pleasing manner. Cest lb
PAUVRB PETIT SAVOYARD, Messieurs'*— exckumed the
waiter — " Vous allez entendre un air touchant ! Ah, le
pauvre petit !" — " Comment 5a " Messieurs, il n'a
ni p^re ni m^re ; m^s pour le chant— oh Dieu, il n'y
a personne qui chante comme le pauvre petit Savoy-
ard We were well disposed to hear the song, and
to admit the truth of the waiter's observation. The
little itinerant stopped opposite the door^ and sung the
following airs : —

Ban jour, Bon soir.

Je peindrai sans detour

Tout Temploi de ma vie :

C*est de dire bonjour

£t ban soir tour-ii-tour.

Bonjour k mon amie,

Lorsque je vfus la voir.

Mais au fat qui m'ennuie,

Bom soir.

BOLBEC.

225

Bon jour iranc troubadour,
Qui chantez la bombance ;
La paix et lea beaux jours ;
Bacchus et les amours.
Qu'un rimeur en d^mence
Vienne avec vous s'asseoir,
Pour chanter la romance,

Bon soir.

Bonjour^ mon cher vcnsin,
Chez vous la soif m'entndne :
Bon jour — si votre vin
Est de Beaune on du Rhin ;
Mon gosier va sans peine
Lui servir d'entonnoir ;
Mab sll est de Surene,

Bon soir.

Aussi content qu un roi
Quand mes vers vous font rire,
Je suis de bonne foi,
CTest un bon jour pour moi.
Si ma muse en d^ire
A trahi mon espoir,
Je n^ai qu^un mot k dire,

Bon soir,

Le VaiUant Troubadour.*
Beulant d'^amour, et partant pour la guerre,
Un Troubadour, ennemi du chagrin,

* I subjoin a version of this popular French air, from Pouts
Letters to his Kinsfolk^ p. 21 1. It is worthy of juxtarposition,
because it may be con^dered as fully equal to the ori^nal*

The Troubadour.
Glowing with love, on fire for fame,

A Troubadour that hated sorrow.
Beneath his Lady's window came.

And thus he snog his last good morrow ;

EOUEN TO HAVRE.

Dans son dSxre, k ba jeune Bergire,
En la quittant r^p^tait sod refraia:
Mon bras i ma petrie,
Mon ooeur k moo amie ;
Mourir gaiment pour la gknre ou ramour,
C'est le devoir d^m vaillant Troubadoiir»
Dans le bivouac k Troubadour fid^
Le casque au front, la guitare k la main,
Toujours penaf et regrettant sa Bdlc^
Allait partout en cfaantant aoii refrain :

" My arm ic is my eomitry'ft rSgfat,

My hetit is in my tnie lo?e's bower ;

Guly for love and fkme to tgY^t
Befits the gallant Troubadoar."

And while he marchM with hebn on head
And harp in hand, the descant rang.

As faithfiil to his favoorite maid.

The minstrel burthen still he sung :

" My arm it is my country's right.

My heart Is in my Lady^i bower ;

Resolv'd for love and &me to fight,

I come a gallant Troubadour."

Even when the battle's roar was deep.

With dauntless heart he hew'd lus way
Mid splintering lance, and falchion sweep.

And still was heard his warrior lay i
My Hfe it is my country's right ;

My heart is in my Lady's bower
For love to die, for fame to fight.

Becomes the valiant Troubadour."

Alas ! upon the bloody field

He fell beneath the foeman's glaive 3
But stiU, leciining on his shield.

Expiring sung the exuhfaig stave ;
" My Hfe it is my country's right.

My heart is in my Lady's bower
For love and fiune to fiUl in fight

Becomes the vaUaat Troubadour."

BOLBEC.

227

Mon bras k ma patrie, etc.
Dana les combats d^plopmt son oourage,
Des emiemis terminant le destin,
Le Troubadour, au milieu du carnage^
Faisait encore entendre ce refrun :
Mon bras k ma patrie, etc
Ce brave, h^las ! pour prix de sa yaiUanoe
Tfouva bientot la tr^pas en chemin ;
U expira sous le fer d^une knoe
Nommant sa belle et en chantant son nfcain :
Mon bras k ma patrie^
Mon cceur k mon amie;
Mourir gaiment pour la gloire ou ramour,
CTest le devoir d^un vaillant Troubadour.

I know not how it waa, but had the petit Savoy-
ard** possessed the cultivated voice of a chorister^ I
could not have listened to his notes with half the satis-
Auction with which I dwelt upon his history, as stated
by the waiter. He had no sooner concluded and
made his bow^ than I bought the slender volume from
which his songs had been chanted^ and had a long
gossip with him. He slung his organ upon his back,
ind ever and anon** touching bis hat^ expressed his
thankfulness, as much for the interest I had taken in
his welfare, as for the trifling piece of silver which I
slipt into his hand at parting. Meanwhile all the
henches, placed on the outMde of the houses, were
occupied— chiefly by fen^ales — ^to witness, it should
aaem^ so novel and interesting a sight as two English-
men holding familiar discourse with a poor wandering
^Savoyard! Our friend the sexton was among the
spectators, and from his voice and action, appeared
especially interested. Que le bon Dieu vous b^nisse i*'

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

exclaimed the Savoyard as we bade him fereweli. On
pursuing our route for a stroll upon the heights near the
town, we had occasion to pass these benches of spec-
tators. The women, almost without any exception,
inclined their heads by way of a gracious salute ; and
Monsieur le Sacristain pulled oflF his enormous cock'd
hat with the consequence of a drum*major. He ap-
peared not to have forgotten the donation which he
had received in the church. We smiled ; and conti-
nuing our pursuit, gained an elevated situation:
whence, looking down upon the spot where we had
left the Savoyard, we observed him surrounded by the
aforesaid females— each and every one of them appa-
rently convulsed with laughter ! Even the little mu-
sician appeared to have forgotten his orphan state.'""*
The environs of BolbeCy especially in the upper
part, are sufficiently picturesque. At least they are
sufficiently fruitful : orchards, com and pasture land —
intermixed with meadows, upon which cotton was
spread for bleaching — produced altogether a very
interesting effect. The little han^ng gardens, at-
tached to labourers' huts, contributed to the beauty of
the scene. A warm crimson sun-set iseemed to en-
velope the coppice wood in a flame of gold. The road
was yet reeking with moisture— and we retraced odr
steps, through devious and slippery paths, to the h6tel.
Evening had set in : the sound of the Savoyard's voice
was no longer heard : we ordered tea and candles^ and
I added considerably to my journal before I went to bed.
As we were to sleep directly opposite the church, we
were compelled the live-long night to hear the striking
of every quarter of every passing hour — in sounds the

BOLBEC.

most hai-sh and penetrating. Mr. Lewis; who boasts
of having a patent for sleeping, (and wlio had hither-
to scarcely known the deprivation of slumber) was
equally awake and restless with myself. As dawn and
son-rise appeared, we determined upon an immediate
departure ; and though we had told the post-boy that
we should not want him till eight, his good nature was
not to be ruffled by our impatience. We rose at five ;
and before six the horses were harnessed to the cabri-
olet. Having obtained the necessary instructions for
reaching Tancarvilley (the ancient and proud seat of
the MoNTMORBNCis) we paid our reckoning, and left
Bolbec in a very cross and almost irritable mood. In
proportion to the comfort of body, and elasticity of
mind, arising from a night of sweet slumber, is the
misery of a heated frame, and an oppressive head-ach —
the effect of the want of that delicious slumber ! The
latter was my lot in particular — ^for my companion's
nerves had not been shattered like my own by repeat-
ed nights of wakefulness and weariness. Allow, my
friend, that the misery endured in consequence, is
just in proportion to the joy and rapture with which
one looks upon every gilded piece of scenery, and
every transparent vapour, within an hour or two after
son-rise ! A fine day, fresh objects, and strange oc-
currences— how they make the heart dance with exul-
tation ! As we ascended a long and rather steep hill,
and, looking to the right and left, saw every thing in a
Mate of verdure and promise, we did all we could to
persuade ourselves that the journey would be agree-
able, and that the castle of Montmorenci could not
&il to command our admiration. We were now in

230

BOUEN TO HAVRE.

t!ie bigh and broad route roj/akT to Ham te Graee i
but bad scarcely been a kagne open it, when, lodcii^
8t our instmctions, we struck out cf the high rottd, to
the left, and followed a private one through flat and
nninterasting arable land. I cannot tell how nMtf
turns we took, or through how many prett^^ MttletH^
lages we passed — till, after a long a^d graiikial aseent;
we came upon a height, flanked the greater part by
coppice wood, through one portion of wtndi — poi^
posely kept open for the view— we saw at a distance a
marrellously fine group of perpendicular rocks (whose
grey and battered sides were lighted up with a phrit
colour from the morning sun) in the middle, as it
were, of the Seine — ^which now really assumed an
ocean-Uke appearance. In fact, these rocks were af
a considerable distance, and appeared to be in the
broadest part of the embouchure of that river. We
halted the cabriolet; and almost forgot the souittd
of the Bolbec clock — as we gazed upon thn truly
magnificent and fascinating scene ! . . for the larks
were now mounting all around us, and their notes,
added to those of the songsters of the grove,** pro^
dttced an eflect which I even preferred to that arising
from the organ and voice of the " pauvre petit Savoy-
ard.** The post-boy partook of our rapture. Voilftj
Messieurs, des rochers terriblement perpendiculiers^
eh, quelle belle vue de la riviere, et du paysage It
was impossible to make any thing of so expansive a
scene with the pencil — at least, by travellers who had
wanted the refreshment of sleep, and who were begtm-
ningto grow hungry and impatient for their breakfiist.
But I shall always bear in remembranee these terriUy

TANCABYILLE.

381

perpendicular rocks,** and the foregroond from which
it was our good fortune to yiew them.

Leaving this brilliant panorama, we kept onward,
taming rather to the lelft, and then found our descent
proportionably gradual with the ascent. The Seine
was now right before us, as hasty glimpses of it, through
partial vistos, had enabled us to ascertain. Still we
deemed TancarviUe a terrible way off ; irst we were
to go up, and then we were to go down— ^now to turn
to the right, and afterwards to tiie kft*^ sort of
mMUi fmmflik nAnfia route — ^when a prepossessing^ ymng
pAysanne, with a decidedly-pointed finger and a weU<>
rqpnlated vmce, told us that, after passii^ through sudita
wood, we should reach an avenue, from the fiirtfaer end
of which the castle of Mentmorenci would be visible . .

nne petite lieue de distance.*' Every thing is ^ une
petite lieue !** It is the answer to every question rela-
tisf to distance. Though the league be double ader-*
Mm one, still it is une petite** — Here however the
payeanne happened to be right. We passed through
the wood, gained the avenue, and from the further end
saW'— even yet towering in imposing magnitude — ^the
fiup-fiyned Chateau deMonimarend. It might be a small
lei^^ off. We gained spirits and even strength at
the sight : told the postillion to mend his. pace — of
wiuch he gave immecfi^^ and satisfiKtory^ demonstra-
tion, while the echoes of his whip resounded akmg the
afewue. A closer road now received us. The hasiel
md filbert occasionally brushed oar Ihcesy and the lad
eonld with dilficulty quarter the ruts — almost broad
and de^ enough to bury a Lincolnshire ox. We stiU
ooDtianed to descend, and at length to discern

232

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

die form and colour of the castle, to the right. As we
descended, the castle seemed to gain in height and
nbAgnitude — ^but that descent brought us into the very
heart of a neighbourhood, in which Mrs. Ratcliffe
would have placed troops of retidners, or of bimditti^ to
listen to the warder's horn from the turrets of the
castle. It was on all sides woody : at this period, of a
bright, yellowish green — but in autumn, rich must be
the tints, and dark and deep must be the shadows.
Knolls of moss-interwoven grass, on the summits of
which the beech and hme threw up their sturdy stems,
now enclosed the road — which began to widen and to
improve in condition. At length, turning a corner,
a group of country people appeared — ^^^Est-ce id
la route de Tancarville P*" — Tancarville est tout
pr^ : c'est Ik, oh on voit la fiim^ des chemin^.*"
Joyful intelligence ! — ^The post-boy increased his speed
. • . the wheels seemed to move with a readier play^
and in one minute and a half we were upon the beach
of the river Seine, and ali^ted at the door of the only
auberge in the village.

I know you to be both a lover of and connoisseur in
Rembrandt's pictures ; and especially of those of his
old characters. I wish you could have seen the old
woman, of the name of Bucan, who came out of this
same auberge to receive us. She had a sharp^ quick,
constantly moving black eye ; keen features^ projecting
from a surfiEice of flesh of a subdued mahogany tint ;
about her temples, and the lower part of her cheeks,
were all those harmonizing wrinkles which become old
age — upon canvas — ^while, below her chin, communi-
cating with a small and shrunken neck^ was that sort

TANCABVILLBL

233

of concavity, or dewlap, which painters delight to ex-
press with a minuteness of touch, and mellowness of
tint, that contribute largely to picturesque effect! This
good old woman received us with perfect elasticity of
spirits and of action. It should seem that we were the
first Englishmen who had visited her solitude this year.
Her husband approached, but she soon ordered him to
the right about" — to prepare fuel, coffee, and eggs. We
were promised the best breakfast that could be got in
Normandy, in twenty minutes. The inn being suffici-
ently miserable, I was anxious for a ramble— and Mr.
L. of course for a sketch. The tide was now coming up,
as at Caudebec ; but the sweep and breadth of the river
being upon a considerably larger scale, its increase was
not yet so obvious — though I am quite sure that all the
flats, which we saw on our arrival as a bed of mud,
were, within a quarter of an hour, wholly covered with
water : and, looking up to the right, we perceived the
perpendicular walls of Montmorenci Castle to be washed
by the refluent wave. It was a sort of ocean in minia-
ture before us. A few miserable fishing boats were
moored upon the beach ; while a small number of ill-
clad and straggling villagers lingered about the same
spot, and seemed to look upon us as beings dropt from
the sky ! We strolled to the left — quickly mounted
a wooded cliff — and, gaining a considerable eminence,
Mr. Lewis saw the village of Tancarville at his feet . . :
while the tide was coming up in a more agitated man*
ner, and the Castle of Montmorenci appeared to gain
a most imposing height and magnitude. A dark sha-
dow flitted across the whole range of intermediate

forest scenery, and an angry atmosphere seemed to
1

234

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

threaten to ovei-whelm castle^ trees, village, and
river, in a deluge of rain. The view was so striking,
that my companion hastened to transfer it to his sketch
book ; — and you shall not only see, but be charmed
with it, on our return from this wild region of solitude
and romance.*

I continued my route — still ascending, and leaving
Mr. L. to his sketch. From the beach I had observed
two very singular mushroom-shaped rocks: and I was
resolved to stand upon their summits. Tlicy project
from the cliff as if they had been cut out by art, and
the bottom parts have been so worn, or scooped away
by a strong current of water — that nothing can afford
more decisive proof of ancient diluvian havoc. You
have here the slight but faithful sketch of them taken
by Mr. Lewis.

Sec the Oppukitk Plate.

TANCARVILLE.

235

• A winding path leads to them^ which you must re-
trace if you wish to gain^ as I did^ a higher part of
the cliff. The whole is covered with coppice-wood. I
had now the gratification of viewing Quilleheuf a little
more nearly. It was almost immediately opposite:
while, to the right, I looked up the wide sweep of the
river towards its embouchure, and fancied I could see
Havre. The group of rocks, which had so charmed us
on our journey, now assumed a different character.
Meanwhile the threatening tempest passed on^ — rolling
over the forest of Montmorenci : the sun was restored,
and the day and the scenery equally broke upon us
with an effulgence which cannot easily be described.
But twice twenty minutes had elapsed — and where
were our coffee and eggs ? On descending, we could
discover, although at a considerable distance, the old
woman standing at the door of the cabaret — apparently
straining her eyes to catch a glimpse of us ; and she
was almost disposed to scold us for having put her
reputation of giving good breakfasts to so hazardous a
trial. The wood was blazing, and the room was al-
most filled by smoke — ^but a prolonged fost, and a
stage of sixteen or eighteen miles, in a keen morning
air, made us think only of allaying our hunger. In
every public house, however mean, you see the white
metal fork, and the napkin covering the plate. A
dozen boiled eggs, and a coffee-pot and cups of per*
fectly Brobdingnagdian dimensions, with tolerable
bread and indifferent butter, formed the subject matter
of our breakfast : and heartily and satisfactorily did we
get through that meal. The postboy having stabled
and refreshed his horses, was regaling himself fh the

VOL. I.

336

BOUEN TO HAVRE.

kitchen^but how do you tlmik be was r^tiliiig fafan-
Mii ? — ^Truly^ in stretcbing Ixmself upon a bencb^ and
teading, as old Ascbam expresses it^ a merry tale m
Boccace.** In otber words, be was reading a Fre&oh
version of tbe Decameron of that celebrated author.
Niofw, my friend, wbetber be bad ever beard of tbe Fid-
darfer Boccaccio,* is truly beyond my power of divl*
nation to affirm : but most certain it is tbat be was lb
occupied — ^tbereby putting to sbame perbaps tbe wbole
tribe of postillions in Great Britain ! Indeed, I bad
already received sufficient proof of tbe general pnK
pensity of tbe common people to read — whethei good or
bad books . . . but let us bope and believe tbe former.
We left tbe bibliomaniacal postboy to bis Boccaccio^
and prepared to visit tbe castlb . . .the once proud and
yet commanding residence of tbe fomily of Montho*

RBNCI.

We ascended — ^with fresh energies imparted from our
breakfast. Tbe day grew soft, and bright, and exhi-
larating . . but alas ! for tbe changes and chances q(
every thing in this transitory world. Where was the
warder? He bad ceased to blow his bom for many a
long year. Where was tbe harp of the minstrel ? It

« the Faldaffer Boecaecio,']— At the sale of the preaeDt Duke of
Marlborough's Library^ in 181 9, this fitf-famed volume was purchased
by the House of Messrs. Longman^ Hurst^ Rees^ Brown^ and Ormefbr
jC918. it having cost the Duke, at the sale of the Roxbubohe Libbabt
(see the BibliographiccU Decameron, vol. iii. p. 69), in 1813, not
less a sum than £.2260. Earl Spencer, who was the Duke*8 opponent,
obtained this desirable volume of Messrs. Longman, Hunt, and Co.
for precisely the same sum which they had given for it. Such a pur-
H^kMae was equally honourable to both parties.

CASTUB OF MONTMOiLENCI. 237

^ad pesifibed two centuries ago, with the hand that had
flmck its chords. Where was the attendant guard? —
fir pwauivants — or men at arms ? They had been swept
#ro9i human eidstence, like the leaves of the old limes
MMi beech trees by which the lower part of the buili-
4iMg was surrounded. The moat was dry ; the rampart
WW a ruin : — ^the rank grass grew within the area • . •
JWn; can I tell you how many vast relics of halls, ban^
ilimting rooms, and bed rooms, with all the magnificent
f4ppurtenances of old castellated architecture, struck
the eager eye with mixed melancholy and surprise !
The singular half-circular, and half square, corner
towers, hanging oyer the evei-restless wave, interested
m exceedingly. The guide shewed us where the
luriaoners used to be kept — ^in a dungeon, apparently
impervious to evqry glimmer of day-light, and every
breath of air. I cannot pretend to say at what periqd
«ren the oldest part of the Castle of Montmorenci was
Iwilt : but I saw nothing that seemed to be more an-
caent than the latter end of the xvth century.* Per-
the greater portion may be of the beginning of the
xvith ; but, amidst the unroofed rooms, I could not
lielp admiring the planted borders, chiefly of a red co-
lour, which run along the upper part of the walls, or
wainscoats — ^giving indication not only of a good, but of
a splendid, taste. Did I tell you that this sort of orna-
ment was to be seen in some parts of the eastern end
<rf the Abbey of Jumieges ? Here, indeed, they afforded
6¥idence— an evidence, mingled with melancholy sen-

■p BCr. Gotman haa a view of the gateway of TancarviUe^ or Mont-
inpienci Castle.

1238

ROUEN TO HAVRE.

sations on conviction — of the probable state of mag-
nificence which once reigned throughout the castle.
Between the comer towers, upon that part which runs
immediately parallel with the Seine, there is a noble
terrace, now converted into garden ground — ^which
commands an immediate and extensive view of the
embouchure of the river. It is the property of a spe-
culator residing at Havre. Parallel with this terrace,
runs the more modernised part of the castle, which the
last residing owner inhabited. It may have hem
built about fifty years ago, and is— or rather the re-
mains of it are — quite in the modem style of domestic
architecture. The rooms are large, lofty, and commo-
dious ; — yet nothing but the shells of them remain.
The revolutionaiy patriots completely gutted them
of every useftil and every valuable piece of furni-
ture: and even the bare walls are beginning to
grow damp, and threaten immediate decay. I made
several memoranda upon the spot, which have been
unluckily, and I fear irretrievably, misplaced ; so that
of this once vast, and yet commanding and interesting
edifice, I regret that I am compelled to send you so
short and so meagre an account. Farewell — a long
and perhaps perpetual farewell — to the Castle oip

MONTMORENCI !

The cabriolet met us at the bottom of the mound
upon which the castle is built. We had paid our
reckoning before we left the inn — so that we had no-
thing to do but to step in, and push forward for Havre.
We retraced the road through which we came ; and
having repassed the village of St Romaine^ (containing
a very picturesque sprinkling of houses) we darted

HAVRE.

239

into the Route Royale^ and got upon one of the noblest
Ugh roads in France. Between Tancarville, and
Havre lie Hocher and Harfieuv ; each almost at the
water's edge. I regretted I could not see the former;
but in our approach to Harfleur we observed, to the
i%ht^ some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly
built, country villas or modern chateaux. The imme^
diate run down to Harfleur is exceedingly pleasing ;
and though we trotted sharply through the town, the
Exquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon
ofl. It resembles that of St. Ouen — ^in miniature. The
town, but especially the church,* is of the time of
Francis I. Few places, I beUeve, for its dimensions,
^ye been more celebrated in the middle ages than
Harfleur. The Seine to the left becomes broader and
bolder ; and, before you, beneath some wooded heights,
lies Havrb. Every thing gave indication of commerce
and prosperity as we gained upon the town. The
hoQses increased in number and respectability of ap^
pearwce — Voyez-vous 1^, Messieurs, ^ droit, ces belies
maisons de plaisance? — (exclmmed our charioteer) —
Cest 1^ oil demeurent Messieurs vos compatriotes :
ma foi, ils ont un joU gout.'' The first glance upon
these stone houses confirmed the sagacity of our postil-
Hob. They are gloriously situated — ^facing the ocean ;
while the surrounding country teems with game of
every spedes. Isaac Walton might have contrived
to interweave a pretty ballad in his description of the
trout streams.

' But we approach the town. The hulls of hundreds

* Mr. CotDoan has given a view of the Spire only.

240

lEIAVRB.

of vessels ai'e seen in the commodkms^ dodt&; and the
flags of merchantmen^ from all quarters of the glotMi
Appear to stream from the mast-heads. It is a* scede
of bustle, of business, and variety; and perfectly Eiig^-
lish. What a contrast to the gloomy Solitude
Montmorenci ! The outer and inner gates aref passed.
Diligences issue from every quarter. The eentinds
i*elieve guard. The sound of horns, from variouir
jacket-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on $3i

lodes We drove up the high street, and ^

t)roached the hfitel of the Jigle d'Ovy* kept by
Justin, aAd considered to be the best. We were just
in time for the table d*h6te, and to bespeak exccikfnt
beds. Travellers were continually arriving and de*
parting. What life and animation ! . . and eould I
have shaken off my jaded spirits, arising from a sfei^
less and restless night, I should have relished, with a
keener delight, the multitudinous objects before me.
We sat down upwards of forty to dinner : and a good
dinner it wds. Two English ladies, and three English
gentlemen, were among the guests ; and though We
were too distant to interchange a word, I could per-
ceive and feel that we each thought ourselves a jiro^
tection to the other. After dinner, I settled for the
cabriolet, and bade the postboy adieu ! — ^nor can I sup-
press that, in wishing him well, I felt ten times mote
than I had ever felt upon taking leave of a postillion.
Was it because I found him reading a French vennon df
Boccaccio? Something better, I should faope^ mingled
itself with my sensations ; and I would willingly be-

* I am not sure whether this inn be called the Arme9 de France, or
as above.

HAVRE.

241

fieve^ although he knows not my name^ that the said
postillion will not think the worse of Messieurs les
Anglois'* ... for having conducted a Bibliomaniac and
a craniology-loving artist from Rouen to Havre. And
now^ fare you well^ till I reach the opposite shore . . .
and take up my residence at Caen.

242

LETTER XII.

HAVRE DE GRACE. HONFLBUR. JOURNEY TO CABN.

Caen^ May^ 1818.

Well^ my friend ! . . . I have at length visited the
interior of the Abbey of St. Stephen, and have walked
over the grave of William the Conqueror and of
Mathilda his wife. I am here very comfortably situ-
ated, and shall not think of quitting this place for a
week at least. But as you dearly love the gossip of a
travelling journal, I shall take up the thread of my
narrative from the spot in which I last addressed you :
— ^particularly as our route hither was marked by some
circumstances not unworthy of recital. First, how-
ever, for Havre.

We staid there only long enough to express our re-
gret that the time of our residence could not be ex-
tended. It happened to be a very fine afternoon, and
I took a leisurely stroll upon the docks and ramparts,^

* £velyn> who visited Havre in 1644^ when the Duke de Richlieu
was governor^ describes the citadel as strong and regular^ weU
stored with artiUery^ &c. The works furnished with flEure brass canon^
having a motto^ *'Eaiw ultima Regum.** The aUogiamenta (om-
tinues he) of the garrison are uniforme ; a spacious place for drawing
up the soldiers, a pretty chapell, and a &ire house for the governor,
&c The citadel was built by the late Cardinal Richlieu, unkk of the
present Duke, and is very strong. The haven is very spadoufl.**

Life and Writings of John Evelyn, edit. 1818, vol. i. p. 51.

Indeed Havre seems always to have been a place of note and dis-

HAVRE.

243

while Mr. Lewis ascended the heights upon which we
had observed the " maisons de plaisance** pointed out to
us by our postillion. The principal street is broad,
straight, and seems surmounted at one end by these
heights ; though there can be little short of a French
league between them and its extremity : the other ex-
tremity of the street ending with the harbour. The rect-
angular and parallel streets are narrower and of less
length ; but there are more interesting pieces of archi-
tectural antiquity in them. As far as I could observe,
or could receive information, thei-e was no house older
than of the time of Francis I. Few of the churches
could boast of a much more remote antiquity. The
population of Havre is estimated at 20,000; and I
should think this is no exaggerated statement. The
town is full of aninlation — whether as relating to busi-
ness or pleasure. For the former, you must visit the
quays ; for the latter, you must promenade the high
street, and more especially the Boulevards, towards
the heights. The sun shone merrily, as it were, upon
the thousands of busy, bustling, and bawling human
creatures . . who were in constant locomotion in this
latter place.

Resolving to postpone my visits to the Booksellers
till evening, I took advantage of every quarter of an

tinction in more senses than one. In ZeiUer's Topographia GaUuB,
(▼d. iii.) there is a view of it, about the period in which Evelyn saw it,
by Jacques Gomboust> Ingdnieur du Boy, from which it appears to
have been a very considerable place. Forty-two principal buildings
and places are referred to in the directions and among them we ob-
serve the BouLEVABDs DE RiCBLiso. There are windmills in abun-
dance in the neighbourhood.

244

HAVRE.

hour of day-light, after four, to make myself master of
the locale of the harbom*. The docks are the great
guns*' of the place ; and in these you see three Am^
rican vessels for one English. In fact, the business
with America is of very considerable extent. I recog*
nised among the vessels a beautiful little three-masted
merchantman, which I had seen, about five years ago^
lying within Ramsgate pier — and any thing which re«
minds you of your own country, though at no very tcr*
rific distance from it, is looked upon with a fonder
and more frequent eye. Just so it was upon viewing
this tightly trimmed vessel. I wished, for a minute
only, that I could leap on board — command a pros*'
perous breeze, unfurl the sails by magic, — ^and
gently landed upon that said pier at Ramsgate ! But
where would have been Caen — and Bayeux — and
Ckmtances — whither my steps were bending? What a
difierence between the respective appearances of the
quays of Dieppe and Havre? Although even here
things would assume a rubbishing and littered as-
pect compared with the quays at Liverpool or at
Hull, yet it must be admitted, for the credit of Gal-
lico-Norman commerce, that the quays of Havre
make a very respectable appearance. You see men
fiddling, dancing, sleeping, sitting, and of course talk-
ing k pleine gorge, in groupes without end — but no
drunkenness! . . not even a G m saluted my ear.
The Southampton packets land their crews at Havre.
I saw the arrival of one of these packets; and was
cruel enough to contrast the animated and elastic
spirits of a host of Fi*ench laquais de place, trades-
people, &c. — attacking the passengers with cards of

HAVRR

945

their address — ^with the feeble movemeDts and dejected
coantenances of the objects of their attack. Mean-
while a packet would sail in the evening for Harjlewr^
but nothing could shake the determination I had made
of stopping (and sleeping^ if possible) at Havre. Again
the packet masters caused the note of departure** to
foe sounded; and again the high street reverberated
its echoes — while trucks and wheel-barrows, laden
with goodly or with sorrowful looking furniture, ap-
peared in motion on all sides — hastening to be in time
for the moment of departure.

From the quays, I sauntered along the ramparts,
which are flanked by broad ditches ; (of course plentlp
folly supplied with water) and passing over the draw-
bridge, by which all carriages enter the town — and
which absolutely trembles as if about to sink beneath
you, as the diligence rolls over it. — I made for the
boulevards and tea-gardens ; to which, business being
well nigh over, the inhabitants of Havre flock by hun*-
^breds and by thousands. A fine afternoon throws
every thing into good keeping** — as the artists say.
The trees, and meadows, and upper lands were not
only bright with the sun-beam, but the human counte-
nance was lighted up with gladness. The occupations
partook of this joyful character. Accordingly there
was dancing and singing on all sides; a little beyond,
appeared to sit a group of philosophers, or politi*-
cians, upon a fantastically cut seat, beneath laburnums
streaming with gold — ^while, still fort her, gradually be-
coming invisible from the foliage and winding path,
strolted pairs in more gentle discourse ! Meanwhile
the whoop and halloo of school-boys, in rs^id and

246 HAVRE.

ceaseless evolutions, resounded through the air^ and
heightened the gratification of the scene.

And young and old came out to play
Upon a sun-shine holiday.

On looking up a winding road, I saw Mr. Lewis busi*
ed with his pencil. Knolls of rich verdure, with fine
spreading trees, and elegant mansions, were in the
foreground — in the middle-ground, and quite at his
feet, stood the town of Havre: — ^in the distance^
rolled and roared the expansive ocean ! The sun was
visibly going to rest; but his departing beams yet
sparkled upon the more prominent points of the pic-
ture. There was no time for finishing the subject.
After a stroll of nearly a couple of hours, on this inter-
esting spot, I retraced my steps over the draw-bridge,
and prepared for objects of still life ; in other words,
for the examination of what might be curious and pro-
fitable in the shape of a Itoftt- Yet I could not turn
my back upon the rising ground, which I had just con-
templated, without thinking that your friends in
London— or any friends in any part of England—
would do very wisely to spend an occasional sunimer
and autumn upon the heights of Havre: and I will
tell you why. In the first place, the locale is perfectly
picturesque : there are both town and country gratifi-
cations : sea and landscape in abundance^while the
air is pure and elastic. In the second place, the time
(that engenderer of spleen, and deadly weight upon
the shoulders of too many of our countrymen) may be
pleasingly and even usefully divided : in the morning
you are mixing with the inhabitants of the town : in the

HAVRE.

247

evening, with those of the country : the walks are com-
modious, and the roads are, in that season of the year,
perfectly excellent. But you begin to grow tired both
of town and country. Be it so. In the third place,
then, take a trip to Rouen, for a week or ten days ;
(to say nothing of the intermediate and interesting
spots, so superficially described in my late dispatch)
return, and then tell me how you like the heights of
Havre!! Or, cross an arm of the sea, (as I have
just done) ramble about Honfieur, and make a leisurely
journey to Caen or, go yet further : — then return,
and tell me how you like the heights of Havre P Re-
member> that the streams abound with trout, and the
acy acent hills in variety and plenty of game ; also do not
fidl to call to mind that one shipment, at Southampton,
brings you direct to your place of destination. A
praeperous wind may make you dress at one place,
and undress at another. Where then shall be the ra-
tionally founded objection to a residence upon the
HBiORTS OF Havre ?

^ The lamps were lighted when I commenced my bib-
Hmnamacal voyage of discovery among the book-
sellers. But what poverty of materials, for a man
educated in the schools of Fust and Caxton ! ? To
every question, about rare or old books, I was told
that I should have been there when the allies first got
fiopsession of Paris. In one of the shops of a respect*
alite bibliopolist, I heard an animated, and even some-
what fierce, discussion about the good or bad efiects
ci the respective dynasties of the Bourbons and
Buonaparte. Each of the two disputants defended
his own side ^th warmth and eloquence. Each took

948

HAVRR

fftfoffy and toefk it pretty oopiousljr; and the inom ve»
hement the argument^ the more frequent .the miqoly of
(tiat s{»rit-stiiTing stimulant. Berceiving me ta
be an Englishman, I began to be appnehensive that {
should be appeided to — or peradventnre^ abused
with equal heartiness by both parties. But the iesal$
was Tery different, and afforded an admirable Uluatqit
tiioB of the facility and sang-froid mth which tiis
French can take up, or discard, any subject, however
faiterestiBg or important. ^ You are from En^^d,
Sir,'*— ^remarked the Buonapartist, taking off his hat,
and inclining his head towards me, with a gracioiis
■ahitalaoB. ^ lam. Sir.** How go€m your Hmse of
Lerds and House of Commons ?'* As usual, Skyr-r
very sound and very active : at least they were so. At
present the latter exists no longer.** Exists iio
lon^ ! — what has happened then, Sir ? — Hal you idy
right to visit these shores in such a crisis of alamJ
Did I not (turning to his Bourbon antagonist) did J
not predict that things could not long last as they bad
been going on -in Engkmd!** Whereupon, the said
Prqphet added sundry other sympathetic >exclamatioQ0^
without allowing me to say one word in explanation id
the cause of the dissolution of our &r-&med House of
.Commons I At length, an opening presenting itself, I
observed, with a mock solemnity of manner, tiiat it
was the period of a gener€U election.'' QvCe^t-od ipiP
ee mot \k vent signifier ?— ^je n*ai jamais entradu fvtknf
de cela.** I explained it as briefly and as perspknir
ously as I was able : but both Buonapartist and Bpur*
bonist (to my astonishment) continued to ^ress titieir
ignorance and surprise. I then eiqilained to them hm

HAVRE.

these rdqpeetive houses oamed on their proceedinj^ ;
and that the mettbero of the house of Lords sat ubt
oovered, with soviet robes trimmed with ermine— 4iut
that those of the House of Commons sat with thetir
iMto on^ and appeared in the dresses which diey hap-
pened to wear during the day — ^booted^ or otherwise^
jmut as they pleased. It is impossible for me to oonyey
to you an idea of the shrug, and exclamation of oon-r
tempt^ with which these opposite-principled disputants
simidtaneously treated our unfortunate Cosmmners :
nor could these political champions separate the elor
qiienoe and importance of the debates from the pikm
appearance of hats and boots : while the Upper House
was pronounced by them to be the only proper arena
fer the display of intellectual strength and 'national
insdonu Enfin, mon ami, (exclaimed the one, tum^
lif to the other) il faut avouer que ces ohoses sont idm
fkoB mauYaas gout ; et je ne puis pas concevxnr CMOk
memt ks Anglois^ qui sont yraiment de braves gens, pen-
tIMt se conformer k des r^ig^ements qui doivent avoir
an r6sultat si fimeste. A 9a I partons. Neuf heures
vient de sonner. Monsieur je vous souhaite le bon
aoir. Adieu, adieu."* These adieus were directed, the
fimt to the booksellar, the second to myself., .and
bolh Bourbonist and Buoni^Hurtist marched off, arm
m vm, forgetting the dynasties which th^ had advo-r
CMled^ but uniform in their expressions of surprise, and
]tt»dictions of evil from the homdy costume of the
Membm of the House of C!ommons ! I could scarcely
refrain from loud laughter as they shut the door of the
flbop, and disappeared. Doubtless these gentlemen
had never consulted our BlackstMie'I

250

HAVRE.

Luckily^ at that moment^ a copy of the Habiti mtu
chi modemi, from the supposed designs of Utian^
and printed in 1590, Svo. happened to catch my eye^
and make me forget the scene which had just taken
place. It was a sound, but somewhat cropt copy, and
attired in a goodly jacket of calf-skin. The price de-
manded was twelve francs : in our own country it brings
double that price . . . and even more than treble might
be given for such a copy as Mr. Grenville possesses.
" C*est un pen fort, ce prix,*' observed I. " Comment
fort, Monsieur? voiUi un joli livre, rempli de planches
en bois — dont on ne pourroit, aujourd*hui, ex6cuter on
pareil, sans en exiger an moins trois fois le prix.**
This is any thing but an argument; but it is the
common observation used by very many booksellers,
whether near the banks of the Seine or the Thames.
I counted down nine francs . • • and made a pditte^
looking at my bibliopolist. Hi bien, comme vous
le d^sirez, je prendrai les nenf francs et vous prendres
le livre. Ce'st ga.*" This was droll enough. I laid
the book aside, and sought about for more . . . but a
torn Sauvage Monstreletj and a thumbed and defective
GdguifCs Chronicle, (these are technical phrases) were
the only fruits-^r rather results— of a very anxkras
forage for full three quarters of an honr. In three
ahops, previously visited, there was scarody a&y thiiig
to be seen but Voltaire and Rousseau. I made the
most of my supposed prize, returned to the hfttd,
drank a late and excellent cup of coffee, and afto* com-
paring notes with Mr. Lewis, as to vAxeX we had seve-
rally seen and heard, retired to rest, thoroughly worn
out, and oppressed with sleep.

HAVRE.

951

The packet was to sail by nine in the morning ; pre-
oisely. For a wonder, (or rather no wonder at all, con-
sidering what had occurred during the last twenty-four
boors) I had an excellent night*s rest, and was pre-
pared for breakfast by eight. Having breakfasted,
we immediately accompanied our luggage to the inner
harbour. Of course we had plenty of offers for the
conveyance of it : so that in five minutes we were
close to the water's edge, and observed the Honfleur
packet swarming with passengers, and crammed with
every species of merchandize: especially tubs, casks,
trunks, cordage, and earthen-ware. We descended;
saw our luggage stowed, took our stations near the
helm — and after experiencing a good deal of un-
comfortable heaving of the ocean, got clear from the
mouth of the harbour, and stood o.ut to sea. The
tide was running briskly and strongly into the
harbour ; and a good deal of see-sawing of the vessel
was the consequence- of such current. We were
in truth very closely stowed ; and as these packets
are built with flattish bottoms, and low sides, — a
rough sea would not have failed to give to a crew, thus
exposed, the appearance of half-drowned rats. Luckily
the wind began to subside, and by degrees old ocean
wore a face of undisturbed serenity. Not how-
ever that very many of the passengers were not tn-
cmwenienced by the agitation, however trifling, which
had occurred. Our crew was a motley one ; but
among them, a parchment-visaged Abbess^ with her
broad streaming bands, seemed to experience parti-
cular distress. She was surrounded by some hale,

hearty market women, whose robust forms, and copper-
1

HAVBE.

twted countenanceB, formed a strikiiig oantraat to ber
own. A little beyond was an old office or two, Willi
OQcfced hata of the usually capacious . diimenbioiM. Biit
the poor Abbess was cruelly afflicted ; and ia a^gestive
and t<me of voice, of the most piteous woe, impiloved
the stewardof the vessel for accommodation below. Mr
l^ewis seized an opportunity of transferring the whole
foreshortened picture to his sketch book ; and I think
you will allow it to be an admirable piece of compo-
sition.

HONFLEUR.

253

. Fortunately^ as I was not in the least annoyed by
sickness^ I had leisure to survey the heights of Honfleur
before we landed. These heights may be called counter-
parts to those of Havre; but they are less lofty^ though
equally well wooded. Looking towards the course of
the River Seine^ as it narrowed in its windings, I dis-
covered Harjleur and Hocher nearly opposite ; and, a
good deal lower down, the little fishing town of Quilie-
heufy apparently embedded in the water. I necessa-
rily had a different view of those rocks which so much
astonished our postillion on the approach to Tancar-
ville ; and indeed on all sides I contemplated nothing
bat picturesque beauty ttid agricultural plenteousness.
Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of
fishing towns*— or whatever be the staple commodity
that supports it. But the environs make amends for
-tfie squididness of the town. A few years of peace and
iflenty would work wonders even in the improvements
43l£ these environs. Perhi^)s no situation is more fa-
vourable for the luxury of a summer retirement.
. AcrofiB this arm of the sea, or rather the very embou-
'diure of the river Seine, you observe Havre — (some
^c^t English miles distant) yet a consequential look-
'il^ town. We paid only eight sons apiece for our
^''fMfNige ; and having no passport to be visid (which in-
'•d0Bd was the case at Havre,) we selected a stout lad or

* It wu 80 in Evelyii*B time: in 1644j It is a poore fidier towne
'(wys he) femarlLable for nothing so mudi as the odd yet useAill
liabites which the good women weare> of beares and other skinns, as
of raggs at Dieppe^ and all along these coasts.*'

Lift and fVritings of J, Evelifn 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 51.
VOL. I. Q

264

HAVRE TO CAEN.

two, from the crowds of lookers on, as we landed, to
carry our luggage to the inn from which the diligence
sets off for Cabn. It surprised us to see with what
alacrity these lads carry the luggage up a steep hill
in their trucks, or barrows ; but we were disgusted
with the miserable forms, and miserable clothing, of
both sexes, wtiich we encountered as we proceeded.
Most fortunately we were in time to secure our placmi
and the horses were in the very act of being put to^ as
we paid our fares beforehand.

All this, you will say, is very trifling ; but the fitct
is, you tell me that I must make you accompany me
wherever I go, and in whatever transaction I am am-
cemed. Pbullo majora.** Judge of our surprise and
gratification upon seeing two well-dressed and well-
bred Englishmen, in the very act of securing their
places. It is not always that, at first sight, English^
men associate so quickly, and apparently so cordially,
as did these gentlemen with ourselves. They were
the Messrs. D*** ofL**** Hallin Yorkshire:
the elder brother an Oxford man of the same standing
with myself. The younger, a Cantab. We were all
bound for Caen; and right gladly did we coalesce
upon this expedition. I shall not easily forget the shower
of rain which fell as we set off ; and most thankfully
did I prefer the shelter of the roof of the coach to the
security of an umbrella in an open packet-boat. The
mode of starting was peculiar to this part of the world.
My love of out-door comforts, and of witnessing the
scenery of a new countiy, made me solicitous to secure
a place in the cabriolet ; but our acquaintances had
previously obtained two places, and the driver and con-

HAVRE TO CAEN.

255

ducteur (on this occasion the same individual) claimed
the third place as a matter of right and necessity, for
himself; from whence he exercised the office of the
niiip— a singular, and rather ticklish, situation for the
management of four horses, unaided by a postillion !
But what was my astonishment, when, on his good-
nature ceding to me this third place, he took his
iltation upon the roof — and from thence, with the
reins in one hand, and a whip in the other, he es-
sayed to guide four high-mettled Norman stallions,
down one descent and up another ascent . • . the rain
at the same moment pouring down in torrents ! To
say that I was not nervous, would be foolish . . I will
own that I was even terrified — ^for what a machine was
bdiind me ! . . and if we had been overset, what a
result must have ensued ! Fortunately we had not got
out of the town, and had scarcely cleared the first
descent, when one of the horses got his leg completely
0V9 the rope traces, and it was impossible to pro-
ceed. I now saw the danger of retaining my place in
the cabriolet to the exclusion of the worthy driver, and
instantly gave it up. He said very coolly Ce sent
des diables de chevaux, et il faut Stre un peu plus pr^s
poor les chatouiller/* Leaving him in full possession to
tickle'' the animals as he pleased, I got inside the
dili^pence ; and as the rain continued to descend yet
more heavily and steadily, I was not chagrined at thQ
(jbange : the leathern curtains of the cabriolet proving
bata sorry defence. — ^Nothing, however, could discom-
pose the gravity, or ruffle the good-humour of the
oonducteur. In the midst of the descending rain, and
vhile the horses appeared to be sprawling all over the

266

HAVRE TO CAEN.

rocid, he whistled and sang alternately, as if nodmp
had taken place.

We now proceeded at a good sharp paoe, and m we
ascended the very high hill on the direct road to Om,
with fine leafy trees on each sidc^ and upon a nobk
breadth of road, I looked out of the diligence to eogcy
the truly magnificent view of the Seine — ^with glimpsel
6f Harfleur and Havre on the opposite coast. TMt
cessation of the rain, and the slow movement id the
vehicle, enabled me to do this in a tolerably commcK
dious manner. The ground however seemed saturated,
and the leaves glistened with the incumbent mcnsture.
There was a sort of pungent freshness of scent abroad—
and a rich pasture land on each side gave the most
luxuriant appearance to the landscape. Nature in-
deed seemed to have fructified every thing in t
manner at once spontaneous and perfect. The fiu» of
the country is pasture-land thro^ighout ; that is to say,
there are comparatively few orchards and little arable.
I was told to pay attention to the cattle, for that the
farmers prided themselves upon their property of thtt
kind. They may pride themselves — if they please : but
their pride is not of a lofty cast of character. Yoii
know I am rather more conversant in Caxtons thab
in cows ; but I have been in Lincolnshire, Hereford-
shire, and Gloucestershire — and have seen and enjoyed,
in these said counties, groups of cattle which appeared
calculated for the land and the table of giants, com-
pared with the Lilliputian objects, of the bucoline spe-
cies, which were straying in thin flocks, throughout
the luxuriant pastures of Normandy. That trium-
phant and immutable maxim of small bone and

PONT L^EVEQUR 257

large carcaHe** seems, alas ! to be unknown in these re-
gions. Nor are the cows extraordinary good milchers.

However, on we rode — and on all sides we gazed.
At length we reached Pont LEveque, a pretty long
stage ; whare we dined (says my journal) upon roast
lirarl, aspcutigos, trout, and an excellent omelette, with
two good bottles of vin ordinsdre — which latter, for
fonr Englishmen, was commendably moderate. Dur-
ing dinner the rain came down again in yet heavier
torrents — ^the gutters foamed, and the ground smoked
with the unceasing fall of the water. In the midst of
this aquatic storm, we toasted Old England right mer-
rily and cordially ; and the conducteur, seeing us in
good humour, told us that " we need not hurry, for
that he preferred a dry journey to a wet one.** We
reactily assented to this position ; but within half an
hour, the weather clearing, we remounted : and by
four o*clock we all got inside — and politics, i*eligion,
literature, and the fine arts, kept us in constant dis-
course and good humour as we rolled on for many a
league. All the way to Troam (the last stage on this side
of Caen) the country presents a truly lovely picture of
pasture land. There are occasionally some wooded
haghts^ in which English wealth and English taste
would have raised villas of the prettiest forms, and with
most commanding Mews. Yet there is nothing to be
mentioned in the same breath with the country about
Rodwell in Glocestershire. Nor are the trees of the
same bulk and luxuriant foliage as are those in our
own country. A fine oak is as rare as an uncut Wyn-
kyn De fVorde\ but creeping rivulets, rich coppice
wood^ avenues of elms and limes, and meadows be-
gemmed vnth butter-cups — these are the characteristics

258

HAVRE TO CAEN-

of the country through which we were pasfiing. It U
in vain however you look for neat villas or come*
quential farm houses : and as rarely do you see groups
of villagers reposing, or in action . . A dearth of popu-
lation gives to French landscape a melancholy and soli-
tary cast of character. It is in cities that you must
look for human beings — and for cities the French seem
to have been created. Not any thing like an exempli-
fication of Watteau's enchanting pieces . . but I chedc
myself — ^ladies and gentlemen do not stir abroad to
dance^ swing, romp, and enjoy a fgte champetre^

When storms and clouds obscure the sky^
And thunders roU^ and lightnings fly!

Yet I shall not easily forget the sweep of country, or
continuation of pasture land, between Pont L*£veqae
and Troam. This latter village is sufficiently poor.
We passed a good house to the left, and a delicious
trout stream to the right ; but the road itself was
absolutely flooded with rain. It was at Troam, I think,
or at some halting place beyond, that our passports
were demanded, and the examination of our trunks
solicited. We surrendered our keys most willingly.
The gentlemen with their cocked hats and blue jackets
— ^having a belt from which a sword was suspended —
consulted together for a minute only — returned our
keys, and telling us that matters would be thorough^
looked into at Caen, said they would give us no trouble.
We were of course not sorry at this determination —
and the Messrs. D * * * and myself getting once more
into the cabriolet, (a postboy being secured for the
leaders) we began to screw up our spirits and curio-

CAEN-

sity for a view of the steeples of Caen. The country,
from Troam to Caen, gets more into the arable kind ;
but, though flatter and less ornamented with trees, it
18 fruitful and agreeable to the eye. Unluckily the sun
had set, and the horizon had become gloomy, when we
first discovered the spires of St. Stephens ahhey — ^the
fNrincipal ecclesiastical edifice at Caen. It was hard
upon nine o'clock ; and the evening being extremely
dusky, we had necessaiily a very indistinct view of the
other churches— but, to my eye, as seen in a lengthened
view, and through a treacherous atmosphere, Caen
had the appearance of Oxford upon a diminutive scale.
The town itself, like our famous University, is built in
a slanting direction ; though the surrounding country
18 yet flatter than about Oxford. As we entered it,
Idl the population seemed collected to witness our
arrival. From solitude we plunged at once into tu«
mxQt, bustle, and noise. We stopped at the Hotel
iEspagne — a large, but black and begrimed mansion.
Here our luggage was taken down ; and here we were
assailed by gar^ons de place, with cards in their
hands, intreating us to put up at their respective
hotels. We had somehow got a recommendation to the
Hotel Roy ale in the Place Royale^ — and such a union
of royal adjuncts was irresistible. — Accordingly, we
resolved upon moving thither. In a trice our trunks
were placed upon barrows : and we marched behind,
in double quick time," in order to secure our pro-
perty. The place appeared to improve as we made
our different turnings, and gained upon our hotel.
" Le voil^. Messieurs" — exclaimed our guides and
baggage conductors — as we got into a goodly square.

260

CAEN.

and saw a fiedr and comely mansion in front. The rash
of landlord; waiting maids^ and gargons de plaoe^ en-
countered us as we entered. '^Messieurs Je vous salue,**
— said a huge^ ungracious looking figure — ^which said
figure was nothing less than the master of the hotel —
yclep*d Lagouelle. We were shown into a small room
on the ground floor to the right — and ordered tea ; but
had scarcely begun to enjoy the crackling blaze cf a
plentiful wood fire^ when the said ungracious figure
took his seat by the side of us ... to tell us aU about
THE duel/'

• I had heard (from an English gentleman in the
packet boat from Havre to Honfleur^) something res-
pecting this most extraordinary duel between a young
Englishman and a young Frenchman : but as I mean
to reserve my Caen btidgei for a distinct dispatch, and
as I have yet hardly tarried twenty hours in this place,
I must bid you adieu, only adding that I dreamt, last
night, about some English antiquaries trying to bend
the bow of William the Conqueror ! — Can this be sur-
prising ? Again farewell.

261

LETTER XIIL

CABN. BOIL. SOCIETY. EDUCATION. A DUEL. OLD
HOUSES. THE ABBEY OF ST. STEPHEN. CHURCH
OF ST. PIERRE DE DERNETAL. ABB^ DE LA SAINTE
TRINIT^. OTHER PUBLIC EDIFICES.

I HAVE now resided upwards of a week at La-
gouelle*S; the Hotel Royale^ and can tell you something
of the place and of the inhabitants of Caen. But do not
(BOEpect such a copious or curious sketch of these as
you received of Rouen and of the Rouennois. Caen is
still-life after Rouen : but it has been^ and yet is^ a
town exceedingly well-deserving the attention of the
loonging traveller and of the curious antiquary. Its
ecclesiastical edifices are more ancient, but less vast
and splendid^ than those of Rouen ; while the streets
and the houses are much more wide and comfortable.
Ibis place is the capital of the department of Cal-
vados^ or of Lower Normandy : and its population
is estimated at forty thousand souls. It has a public
library^ a school of art, a college, mayoralty, and all
the etceteras of a corporate society. But I must first
give you something in the shape of political economy
intelligence. Caen with its arrondissemens of Bayeux,
Fire J Falaiscy Lisieux, and Pont LEvequCj is the coun-
try of pasturage and of cattle. It is also fertile in the
apple and pear ; but from recent experiments made at
Jirgences^ they have abandoned all further attempts to
cultivate the vine. There are beautiful and most abun-

264

CAEN.

Caen and its immediate vicinity^ but lately that branch
of trade has suffered extremely. The revolution first
gave it a violent check, and the ignorance and inat-
tention of the masters to recent improvements, intro*
duced by means of chemistry, have helped to hasten
its decay. To balance this misfortune, there has of
late sprung up a very general and judiciously directed
pommercial spirit in the article of porcelaine; and
if Caen be inferior to its neighbouring towns, and
especially to Rouen and Lisieux, in the articles of
cloth, stuffs, and lace, it takes a decided lead in that
which relates to pottery and china : no mean articles
in the supply of domestic wants and luxuries. But
it is in matters of higher pith and moment** that
Caen may claim a superiority over the towns just
noticed. There is a better spirit of education abroad;
and, comparatively for its size, more science and more
literature. This place has been long famous for the
education of lawyers. There are two distinct acade-
mies— one for "Science and Belles-Lettres" — the
other for agriculture and commerce. The Ljfc^e is a
noble building, close to the Abbey of St.lStephen : but
I wish its fagade had been Gothic, to harmonise with
this latter. Indeed^ Caen has quite the air o( Oxford,
from the prevalent appearance of stone in its public

taire qu'il n'y a viUe en Europe oh il se fac^ de plus beaux & singulkr
LiNOE DE TABLE que Toii appeUe hautelke — sur lequel les artisans
telliers representent toutes sortes de fleurs^ bestes^ oyscaux, arbres^ me-
dalles^ & armoiries de Rois^ Princes^ Seigneurs, voire aussi naifue-
ment & proprement que le plus estim^ Peintre pourroit rapporter
auecques son pinceau, &c. Bourovbville; Jntiquiiez de Caen; 1 588^
8vo. p. 36.

CAEN.

266

buildings. The environs of the town afford qnar-
lies, whence the stone is taken in great blocks, in a
comparatively soft state — and is thus cut into the
several forms required with the greatest facility. It
18 then exposed, and every succeeding day appears
to add to its white tint and durable quality. I saw
some important improvements making in the out-
skirts of the town,* in which they were finishing

^ mpraumeHti making m the ouiskirU of the townJ] — ^The &ux-
bcmgB of Caeii> in the present day, wear a melancholy contrast to
what they appear to have been in the middle of the xviih century,
listen to the pleasantly penned description of them by the first topo-
gnpher of the place . . . auxquelles les habitans et ieunesse se pour-
meinent^ prennent plaisir k la saison du printemps> et de I'est^^ mftme
lea fliers de TUniTersit^ ; les vns k sauter^ lutter^ oourir^ iouer aux
Imrcs^ nager en la riviere qui les enclot> tirer de Tarc^ et prendre
tontes honnestes recreations^ comme aussi font les damoiselles^ dames^
et bouigeoises, k y estendre et secher leur beau linge^ duquel les dites
prairies sont aucunes fois si couuertes quelles semblent plustot blanches
que yertes— et au jour des festes api^s le souper s*y assemblent les
graades compagnies, tant de seigneurs^ offiders, dames, damoiselles^
boorgeoises^ en nombre de trois k quatre mile personnes qui 8*y pour-
■woent par troupes> pour y auoir leur plaisir et recreation & voir les
paase temps, &c.*'—Mais encores le plus grand plaisir qui se treuue en
teUes assemble, c*est qu*en ce beau printemps vernal Ton y voit le
diant et ramage melodieux des rossignols qui fleurissent^ firedonnent et
degoissent, dedans cette circle et iardins prochains, rapportans par
leor chant la m^moire de I'histoire de Fhilomene^ &c.*' Again, a few
pages further: Je dir^ aussi^ auecques assurance, qu'il croist aux
Imux prairies et iardins de cette ville & fauxbourgs des plus excellens
etdelicats fruits de toutes series que en autre ville de France, et de toutes
iiciirs odoriferentes en de belles & plaisantes trailles, gallerie, pallis-
sades & parterres.'* Boubgusville : Antiquitez de Caen ; pp. 5, 6> 26.

It may be worth subjoining, from the same interesting authority,
that long after the time even of the puUication just referred to.

266

CAEN.

shafts and capitals of columns in a manner the
most correct and gratifying. Still further from the

the town of Caen was surrounded by lofty and thick stone walla—
upon the tops of which three men could walk a-breast ; and fran
thence the inhabitants could discern the vessels sailing in the river
Orne, across those large and beautiful meadows^ and unloading their
cargoes by the sides of the walls.*' It appears indeed to have been a
sort of a lounge or fashionable promenade— by means of various
ladders for the purposes of ascent and descent.

Among the old prints and bird*s-eye views of Caen^ whidi I saw in
the coUection of Ds Boze at the Royal Library at Paria, there is one'
accompanied by three pages of printed description ; which latter be-
gins with the lines of Guillaume Breton Villa potens^ opulenta^" ftc. ;
see post. There is also a very large print of Coen^ by P. Buache, of Oe
date of 1747 : in which^ however^ the trees are made of more oonw-
quence than the houses. Also a bird's-eye print of the dty, ham Hat
pmaiat GumUmtie. This latter Itake to be from ZeiIler*sTopogni|iUa
Gallis^ vol. iii. in which the towers of the Jbbaye dela TrinM, and of
St. Etienne, having two stories, as it were, are unlike any thing we now
observe. The view, in other respects, gives a good idea of the tows
(of the date of 1640-50) and of the precincts of St. Stephen's abbey.
The Place Royale seems to have been the Placede la Ckaimiei where
we observe a gallows to be erected. Among the drawing8> &c. in the
royal collection, is one of the castle of Caen, of the date of 1702, father
interesting. The castle is now destroyed. There is also an impOBHig
view of the Ahhaye de la Trinity : or rather of the monastery or hospi-
tal now attached to it : also of the date of 1702 : a wretdied per-
formance. An equally faithless view of the abbey of St. Stephen ;
of the same date. Evelyn, in 1644, thus describes the town
of Caen. The whole town is handsomely built of that excdl-;
lent stone so well knowne by that name in England. I was lead to a
pretty garden, planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at the en-
trance, at an exceeding height, accurately cut in topiary worke, with
well understood architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, freeases, and
other ornaments, with greate curiosity, &c.

Life and Writings of J. Evelyn; 1818^ 4to. vol. L p. 52.

CAEN.

267

immediate vicinity of Caen, they find stone of a closer
grain; and with this they make stair-cases, and
pavements for the interior of buildings. Indeed
the stone stair-cases in this place, which are usually
circular, and projecting from the building, struck me
as being equally uncommon and curious. It is assert-
ed that they have different kinds of marble in the
department of Calvados, which equal that of the
south of France. At Basly and Fieux white marble
is found which has been judged worthy of a compari-
son with Parian ; but this is surely a little presump-
tuous. However, it is known that Cardinal Richelieu
brought from Vieux all the marble with which he
built the chapel in the college of the Sorbonne.

Upon the whole, as to general appearance, and as to
particular society, Caen may be preferable to Rouen.
The costume and manners of the common people are
pretty much, if not entirely, the same ; except that, as
to dress, the cauchoise is here rather more simple than
at Dieppe and Rouen. The upper fille-de-chambre at
our hotel displays not only a good correct model of
national dress, but she is well-looking in her person,
and well-bred in her manners. Mr. Lewis prevailed
upon this good-natured young woman to sit for her
likeness, and for the sake of her costume. The girls
eyes sparkled with more than ordinary joy at the pro-
posal, and even an expression of gratitude mingled it-
self in her manner of compliance. I send you, as a
rival to the cauchoise Dieppoiscy* the figure and dress

• See p.

268

CAEN.

of the iille-dc-chambre at the Hotel Rafale of Caen.*
And as a counterpart to it, pray examine this pleajsing
little group, of the same character, or order in society,
which Mr. L. brought in this morning — ^from a peram-
bulation in the suburbs of the town before breakfiast.
fli"^ms that Norman women sit, and
out of doors, betimes in the moniii^«

• Sec the Opposite Plate
f depdt of . the English,'] — lti;va5 a similar d{;p6t in DucareFs Ume.

CAEN.

269

and from very different causes. One fiunily comes M
reside from motives of economy ; another from those of
education ; a third from those of retirement ; and a
fourth from pure love of sitting down^ in a strange
place^ with the chance of making some pleasant con-
nection^ or of seeking some strange adventure. Good
and cheap livings and novel society^ are doubtless the
main attractions. But there is desperate ill blood just
now between the Caennois (I will not make use of the
enlarged term Francois) and the English; and I
will tell you the cause. Do you remember the em-
phatic phrase in my last^ all about the duel?''
Listen. About three weeks only before our arrival,*
a duel was fought between a young French law stu-
dent and a young Englishman, the latter the son of a
naval captain. I will mention no names ; and so far
not wound the feelings of the friends of the parties con-
cerned. But this duel, my friend, has been " the duel of
duels"— on the score of desperation and of a fixed pur
pose to murder. It is literally without precedent, and I
trust will never be considered as one. You must know
then, that Caen, in spite of all the bouleversemens"* of
the Revolution, has maintained its ancient reputation of
possessing a very large seminary, or college for stu-
dents at law. These students amount to nearly 600 in
number. Most young gentlemen under twenty years of

* The story was in fact told us the very first night of our arrival^
by M. Lagouelle, the master of the hotel royale. He went through
it with a method^ emphasis, and energy, rendered the more striking
from the obesity of his figure and the vulgarity of his countenance.
But he frankly allowed that " Monsieur TAnglois se conduisoit bien/'

270

CAEN.

age are at times riotous^ or frolicsome^ or foolish. Geiie*
rally speakings however^ the students conduct thCTi--
selves with propriety : but there had been a law-suit be-
tween a French and English suitor^ and the Judgerpro*
nounced sentence in favour of our countrjrman. The
hall was crowded with spectators, and among them was
a plentiful number of law-students. As th^ were retir*
ing, one young Frenchman either made frightful faces,
or contemptible gestures, in a very fixed and insulting
manner, at a young Englishman — the son of this naval
captain. Our countryman had no means or power of
noticing or resenting the insult, as the aggressor was
surrounded by his companions. It so happened that
it was fair time at Caen ; and in the evening of the
same day, our countiyman recognised, in the crowd at
the £Etir, the physiognomy of the young man who had
insulted him in the hall of justice. He approached
him, and gave him to understand that his rude beha-
viour should be noticed at a proper time and in a
proper place : whereupon the Frenchman came up to
him, shook him violently by the arm, and told him to
" fix his distance on the ensuing morning.** Now the
habit of duelling is very common among these law-
students ; but they measure twenty-five paces, fire, and
of course . . . miss — and then fimcy themselves great
heroes, and there is an end of the aflfair I Not so upon
the present occasion. Fifteen paces,** if you please-
said the student sarcastically, with a conviction of the
backwardness of bis opponent to meet him. " Five,
rather" — exclaimed the provoked antagonist — ^' I will
fight you at five paces :** — audit was agreed that they

CAEN.

271

should so meet and fight on the morrow, at five paces
only asunder.

Each party was under twenty; but I believe the
English youth had scarcely attained his nineteenth
3^ear. What I am about to relate will cause your flesh
to creep. It was determined by the seconds, as one
must necessarily fall, from firing at so short a distance,
that only one pistol should be loaded with ball: the
other having nothing but powder : — and that, as the
Frenchman had challenged, he was to have the first
choice of the pistols. They parted : the seconds pre-
pared the pistols according to agreement — and the
&tal morning came. The combatants appeared, with-
out one jot of abatement of spirit or of cool courage.
The pistols lay upon the grass before them: one loaded
only with powder, and the other with powder and ball.
The Frenchman advanced: took up a pistol, weighed
and. balanced it most carefully in his hand, and then
. . . laid it down. He seized the other pistol, and
cocking it, fixed himself upon the spot from whence
he was to fire. The English youth was necessarily
compelled to take the abandoned pistol. Five paces
were then measured . . and on the signal being given,
they both fired . . . and the Frenchman fell . . . dead
UPON THE spot! Hc had in fiict taken up and laid
down the very pistol which was loaded with the ficital
ball, on the supposition of its being of too light a
weight ; and even seemed to compliment himself upon
his supposed sagacity upon the occasion. But to pro-
ceed. The ball went through his heart, as I under-
stood. The second of the deceased, upon seeing his
friend a reeking corpse at his feet, became mad and

VOL. I. R

272

CAEN.

outrageous • . and was for fighting the survivor imma-
diately ! Upon which the lad of mettle and courage
reptied, that he would not fight a man without a
second — " But go," said he, (drawing his watch coolly
ftom out of his fob) I will give you twenty minutes to
come back again with your second.** He waited, with
his watch in his hand, and by the dead body of his
antagonist, for the return of the Frenchman ; but on
the expiration of the time, his own second conjured
him to consult his safety and depart ; for that, from
henceforth, his life was in jeopardy. He left the
ground; obtained his passport, and quitted the town
instantly ; but he had scarcely lost sight of the field of
action a dozen minutes, ere a multitude of students
came, determined to avenge the death of their country-
man by that of his destroyer ! . . The dead body of the
duellist was then placed upon a bier : and his Mineral
was afterwards attended by several hundreds of his
companions — ^who, armed with muskets and swords,
threatened destruction to the civil and military autho-
rities if they presumed to interfere ... for the Mayor
had, in fact, prohibited the funeral rites to be performed
within consecrated ground. All this, my dear friend,
has necessarily increased the ill-blood which is ad-
mitted to exist between the English and French . . . but
the affair is now beginning to blow over — and when
one of our fair young countrjrwomen, who has been
visiting in the best circles here, with her mother, (for
the last eight or ten months) asked me how oft;en I
had been insulted since my arrival?*' — and I replied
not once" — she expressed herself astonished beyond
measure.

CAEN.

373

^ A trace to sach topics of vexation and dismay. Only
let us admit that, at this present moment, after what
has passed, the wonder may be that the breach is not
mder between the Caennois and our countrymen. It
-IB now hig^ time to furnish you with some details
relating to your fitvourite subjects of architbctural
aod BOOKISH ANTiQurriBs. The former shall take
precedence. First of the streets; secondly of the
houses ; and thirdly of the public buildings, ecclesias*
tical and civil. Yet a word upon the antiquity of the
town itself. Its name, Cabn, (Cadami in Latin) is
supposed to be derived from Cad-Hom : a compound
word, half Celtic and half Saxon— ^lenoting, in the
opinion of Bochart, the place of war. Hence the old
words CadrJumj Cat/Uen, Cahem — and finally Caen.
Let this suffice for etymological research. As to the
antiquity of the place, it is supposed never to have been
inhabited by the Romans : in other words, not to have
existed as a town when they occupied the country : I
shall say nothing about its condition during the time of
llie Saxons ; who, it should seem, made no settlement
here but it may be fairly stated that, on the introduc-

* ike Saxmu . . . made no settlemerU hereJ] — " It was not, however,
a gieat many years after, [the possession of the aoriAent parts of Qaul
lif the Danes] that it was esteemed one of the chief towns in the pro-
irincef as we find in the account of the intenriew at Rouen, in the year
943, between Louis Ultramarinus, King of France, and Rollo, Duke of
Normandy, as given us in a very ancient chronicle of that dukedom.
Monsieur De Bras assures us, that in a MS. of the customs of Nor-
mandy, written in the time of Duke RoUo, and which had fallen into
his hands, Caen is spoken of as a town which then made no contemp-
tible appearance ; and in the charter of dotation given by Richard II.

274

CAEN.

tion and establishment of Christianity, Caen was^ at
least a more insignificant place than Bayeux ; inasmuch
as the Diocesan*s see is established at this latter place
— ^whereas^ had Caen been of more local importance, w%
should not have heard of the Bishop of Bayeux, but et
the Bishop of Caen. Let me therefore take you at once
to the beginning of the tenth century, when, under
the government of the famous Rolloy this place attained
strength and celebrity. It appears to have increabed
in wealth and distinction during the following century.
William the Conqueror built a noble abbey here, and
chose it as the spot for his interment ; and such was
its population and magnificence during the thirteenth
century, that a poet of that period has noticed it in the
most pointed and commendatory manner.* Before the
Revolution it had thirteen parishes, a ooU^[e, aiid
twenty public establishments for either sex. ^^t pre-
sent the number of parishes is reduced to two ; and of
the thirteen churches, seen in DucareFs time, I should

Duke of Normandy, to his daughter Adela^ upon her maniage
with Raynauld Count of Buigundy, the town of Caen, together
with its churches, markets, custom-house, quay, and other dependen-
des, are amply specified.** Anglo-Norman AntiquUies; p. 48.

* a poet has noticed U in the most poMed and commendatory
—This poet is WiUiam Le Brito, or Guillaume Breton, who teUsnt^
in his PhUipidos, that it was so weU peopled, and so mBgxuBoeaQf
built, that there was no town in all France comparable to it, except
Paris. His words are these :

Villa potens, opnlenta» situ spatioea decors ;

Fluminibus, pratis, et agronun fertilitate,

Merciferasque rates portu capiente marine ;

Seqne tot ecdesiis, domibus, et dvibus miaoi,

Ut se Fteisk) viz annnat esse minoitm.

p. 48-9.

CAEN.

275

think it probable that a foui-th part has been demo-
lidied. At leaat I know that, on the further extremity
otthe town, beyond the Abbey of St. Stephen, there is
little more than the shell of an ancient church, (St.
Nicholas,* I think) of which the western end, be-
Uaying the architecture of the thirteenth century, is
OMverted into a blacksmith's shop, and the nave and
ride aisles are mere stabling for horses. The Revolu-
tion taught the importance of this adaptation to time
aad circumstances !

However, to begin with the Streets. Those of St.
Pierre, Notre Dame, and ^S'^. Jean are the principal
for bustle and business. The first two form one con-
tinuous line, leading to the abbey of St. Stephen, and
afford in £Etct a very interesting stroll to the observer
of' men and manners. The shops are inferior to those
of Rouen, but a great shew of business is discernible
in them. The street beyond the abbey, and those
oalled Guilberty and des Chanoines, leading towards
the river, are considered among the genteelest. Du-
carel pronounced the hotises of Caen mean in gene-
ral, though usually built of stone but I do not
agree with him in this conclusion. The open parts
afiout the Lj/c^e and the Abbey of St. Stephen, toge-
ther with the Place Royale, where the library is
rituated, form very agreeable spaces for the promenade

* All that Ducarel says of it^ is '* that it is remarkable on account
of its great age. " He calls it St. Nicholas des Champs, p. 75. Hue!
observes that time and the new fortifications had much changed the
limits of this parish — ^which formerly extended as far as the Isle Re-
naud, out of the enclosure of the town^ behind St St^hen*s. Origmet
de Caen ; p. 3(8.

276

CAEN.

of the ladies and the exercise of the National Guard. -
The Courts are full of architectural curiosities^ but
mostly of the time of Francis I. — ^Indeed that monarch-
seems to have been particularly anxious, both here and
at Rouen, to revive a taste, whether good or bad, for
gothic architecture and it is not only in courts, but
in public edifices, wherever situated, that you observe
specimens of architecture of the early part of the six-^*
teenth century. Of the houses, those witn elaborate
carvings in wood, beneath a pointed roof, are doubt-
less of the greatest antiquity. There are a great num-
ber of these ; and some very much older than others.
M. Pierrb-Aim£ Lair (a worthy gentleman, of whom
I shall by and by speak in ample terms) conducted
Mr. Lewis and myself to two of these booses — ^wldcb
he deemed the oldest in the town. Thcly are in the
Rue St. Pierre : but modem innovations had begun to
make encroachments in the one to the left. Mr. L. ob-
tained permission to at in a room on the first floor, oh
the opposite side of the way, and occupied two mormngs
in making drawings of these old-fashioned resideiices.
Cast your eye upon them : and tell me whether you are
not charmed by the brilliancy and minuteness of Much

* a taste, whether good or badtfor Gothic archiUeture.']—¥mada not
only introduced a taste for architecture/* but fbrspectades^ fesiinties,
and gaities of almost every class and description. The account of the
triumphal entry of that Monarch and the Dauphin, In the year 1538,
by Bourgueville, (taken apparently from his oiwn corious and contemn
poraneous publication) may be placed alongside of any thing wiiich
has been said of the triumphal entries of Henry II. at Rouen— though
even at Caen, Henry took pains to rival the regal pomp of his prede^
cessor. Consult the Jntiquit^i de Caen, p. 103-*121, &c.

CAEN.

877

which the artist has exhibited. At the same time they
win remind you of the general character of our older
hooses in the city of Chester, and elsewhere. They are
coirered with ceats of plaister, the work of succeeding
generations.

278

CAEN;

A third curious old house is to the right hand corner
of the street St. Jean ; as you go to the Post Office.
But talking of houses, I must inform you that the resi-
dence of the famous Malherbe yet exists in the street
leading to the abbey St. Etienne. This house is of the
middle of the sixteenth century : and what Corneille
is to Roueriy Malherbe is to Caen. Ici naquit Malt-
HERBE, &c. as you will perceive from the annexed
drawing of this said house, is inscribed upon the front
of the building. But Malherbe has been doomed to
receive greater honours. His head was the first struck,
in a series of medals, to perpetuate the resemblances
of the most eminent literary characters (male and fe-
male) in France : and it is due to the amiable Kerre-
Aim£ Lair to designate him as the Father of this
medallic project.

CAEN. 279

- Towards the street La helle Croix, is this inscription
with the subjoined arms^

FRANCISCVS MALHERBVS
HASCE AEDES EXTBVI CVBAVIT

Towards la Rue de L'Odeon :

CIVTTATIS OBNAMENTO
LARIVMQUE AVITORVM MEMORIiE.

In perambulating this town^ one cannot but be sur-
prised at the non-appearance of fountains — those
charming and commodious pieces of architecture and
of street embellishment. In this respect, Rouen has
infinitely the advantage of Caen : where, instead of the
trickling current of translucent water, we observe
nothing but the partial and perturbed stream issuing
from ugly wellsy* as tasteless in their structure as they

* ugl^f wetif .] — ^Bouigueville seems bitterly to lament the substitu-
tion of weUs for fountains. He proposes a plan^ quite feasible in his

280 CAEN.

are inconvenient in the procuring of water. Upon one
or two of these wells^ I observed the dates of 1560 and
1588.

The Public Edifices, however, demand a particular
and appropriate description : and first of those of the
ecclesiastical order. Let us begin therefore with the
Abbby of St. Stephbn ; for it is the noblest and most
interesting on many accounts It is called by the
name of that Saint, inasmuch as there stood formerly
a chapel, on the same scite, dedicated to him. Hie
present building was completed and solemnly dedi-
cated by William the Conqueror, in the presence
of his wife, his two sons Robert and William, his
fitvourite Archbishop Lanfranc, John Archbishop of
Rouen, and Thomas Archbishop of York — towards
the year 1080: but I strongly suspect, from the
present prevailing character of the architecture, that
nothing more than the west front and the towers
upon which the spires rest, remain of its ancient
structure. The spires (as the Abb6 De La Rue
conjectures, and as I should also have thought) are
about two centuries later than the towers.

The outsides of the side aisles appear to be of the thir-
teenth rather than of the end of the eleventh, centuiy.
The first exterior view of the west front, and of the

own estimation, whereby this desirable object migfat be effected : and
then retorts upon his townsmen by reminding them of the commodioas
fountains at Lineux, Faktue and Vire^o^ which the inhabitants
" n'ont rien espaign^ pour auou- ceste decoration et commodity en leurs
▼iUes/'— spiritedly adding—'' si j'estcns encore en auctorit^^ j'y ferois
mon pouucnr, et ie y oifre de mes biens."* p. 17.

CAEN.

281

towers^ is extremely interesting ; from the grey and
dear tint^ as well as excellent quality of the stone,
which, according to Hnet, was brought partly from
Vaucelle and partly from Germany. One of the comer
abutments of one of the towers has fallen down ; and
a great portion of what remains seems to indicate rapid
decay. The whole stands indeed greatly in need of
reparation. The prettily f^hioned Norman stone-
tile upon the spires, cannot fail to attract the attention
of the antiquary. Ducarel, if I remember rightly,^ has
made, of this whole front, a sort of elevation as if it
were intended for a wooden model to work by : having
all the stiffness and precision of an erection of forty-
dght hours standing only. As the eye runs along the
body of the building, towards the eastern end, a pro-
portionate disgust prevails. The central tower is cropt
close, and overwhelmed by a roof in the form of an
extinguisher. This, in fact, was the consequence of the
devastations of the Calvinists ; who absolutely sapped
the foundation of the tower, with the hope of over-
whelming the whole choir in ruin — ^but a part only of
their malignant object was accomplished. The com-
ponent parts of the eastern extremity are strangely
and barbarously miscellaneous. However, no good
conmianding exterior view can be obtained from the

* Ducarel, if I remember rightly,"] The plate of Ducarel, here alluded
to, forms the fourth plate in his work : afibrding, from the starch
mamier in which it is engraved, an idea of one of the most dispropor-
tioned, ug]y buildings imaginable. Mr. Cotman has favoured us with
a good bold etching of the West Front, and of the elevation of com-
partments of the Nave : The former is at once fsuthful and magnificent 5
but the lower part wants characteristic markings.

282

CAEN.

placcj or confined square^ opposite the towers. Yoa
mnst thei-efore turn to the right about, and procure a
survey from the more open space, (assuming the cha*
racter of boulevards) facing also the Lycee — ^which em-
braces a view of the eastern end, taking in the towers
in a veiy picturesque manner. Hither Mr. Lewis and
myself resorted ; and while I was seated upon a bench,
reading the Abbe De la Rue's recent treatise upon the
Armoric Bards (which the venerable author had pre-
sented to me on the same morning,) IMr. Lewis was
occupied with his pencil in transferring one of the
prettiest representations imaginable of the objects be-
fore him to his sketch book. It unites the fidelity of
antiquarianism with all the picturesqueness of which
the subject is capable.*

But let us go back again to the west-front ; and
opening the unfastened green baize covered door, enter
softly and silently the venerable interior — sacred even
to the feelings of Englishmen ! Of this interior, very
much is changed from its original character. The side
aisles retain their flattened arched roofs and pillars ;
and in the nave you observe those rounded pilasters —
or alto-relievo-like pillars — nmning from bottom to
top, which are to be seen in the abbey of Jumieges.
The capitals of these long pillars, are comparatively of
modern date. To the left on entrance, within a side
chapel, is the burial place of Matilda, the wife of the
Conqueror. Tlie tombstone attesting her interment
is undoubtedly of the time. Generally speaking, the in-
terior is cold, and dull of effect. A desolate nakedness

* Sec the Opposite Plate.

CAEN.

prevails, and you are disappointed that you do not see
more objects of costliness or curiosity. The side
chapels, of which not fewer than sixteen encircle the
choir, have the discordant accompaniments of Grecian
balustrades to separate them from the choir and nave.
There is a good number of confessionals within them ;
and at one of these I saw, for the first time, two wo-
men, kneeling, in the act of confession to the same
priest. " C'est un pen fort," observed our guide, in
an under-voice, and with a humourous expression of
countenance ! Meanwhile Mr. Lewis, who was in an
opposite direction in the cathedral, was exercising his
pencil in the following delineation of a similar subject.

284

GAEN,

To the right of the choir (in the sacristy, I think,) is
hnng the huge portrait, in oil, within a black and gilt
frame, of which Ducarel has published an engraving,*
on the supposition of its being the portrait of William
THE Conqueror. But nothing can be more ridicu-
lous than such a conclusion. In the first place, the
picture itself, which is a palpable copy, cannot be
older than a century ; and, in the second place, were
it an original performance, it could not be older than
the time of Francis I. : — when, in feet, it purports to
have been executed — as a faithful copy of the figure of
King William as it appeared to the Cardinals in 1522,
who were seizerf with a sacred phrenzy to take a peep
at the body as it might exist at that time ! The cos-
tume of the oil painting is evidently that of the time
of our Henry VIII. ; and to suppose that the body of
William— even had it remained in so surprisingly per-
fect a state as Ducarel intimates, after an interment of
upwards of four hundred years — could have presented
such a costume, when, from DucareFs own statement,
another whole-length representation of the same person
is totally different y and more decidedly of the cha-
racter of William's time, is really quite a reproach
to any antiquary who plumes himself upon the posses-
sion even of common sense.

In the middle of the choir, and just before the high

• the huge portrait , . , of which Ducarel has published an engraving.l
Ducarel shall tell his own prosing tale ; lest, by abridging it, I should
be suspected of partiality. I only beg that a second perusal of the
text may follow the first perusal of this note : of which latter, indeed,
a small portion is not divested of interest. See the next note but two,
at page 292.

CAEN.

285

dltar^ the body of the Conqueror was entombed with
great pomp; and a monument erected to his memory
of the most elaborate and costly description.* Nothing

* '* In the middle of the choir, and just before the high altar, was
deposited the body of the founder, William the Conqueror, King
of England, and Duke of Normandy, under a most stately monument,
erected at the expence of his son, William Rufus, and richly adorilM
with gold, silver, and precious stones, by one Odo, a goldsmith of
Caen. The top stone of the monument was of ttmch, supported on
each side by three pilasters of white marble 5 and thereon lay the
figure of the King, as large as life, dressed in his robes of state ; and
at the foot, was the following epitaph, composed by Thomas, Arch-
bishop of York. :

QUI REXIT RIGIDOS NORTHMANOS ATQUE BRITANOS,

AUDACTER VICIT FORTTTER OBTINUIT
ET CCENOMANENSIS VIRTUTE COERCUIT ENSIS

IMPERHQUE SUI LEGIBUS APPLICUIT
REX MAGNUS PARVA JACET HAC GULIELMUS IN URNA

SUFFICIT ET MAGNO PARVA DOMUS DOMINO
TER SEPTEM GRADIBUS SE VOLVERAT ATQUE DUOBU8

VIRGINIS IN GREMIO PHCEBUS ET HIC OBUT.

losr.

In the year 1538^ one of the cardinals^ attended by an archbishop and
several dignified ecclesiastics, visiting the town of Caen, was prompted
by a strong curiosity to see the body of the Conqueror^ and having,
for that purpose, obtained permission flrom Peter de Martigny, bishop
of Castres, who was at that time abbot of St. Stephen, they caused the
tomb to be opened. Upon removing the cover stone, the body, which
vras corpulent, and in stature greatly exceeded the tallest man then
known, appeared as entire as when it was first buried. Within the
tomb lay a copper plate gilt, on which was engraven the like epitaph
with that on the outside of die monument, and beneath it was the fol-
lowing inscription in old French :

le Guillaume tres magnanime

Due de Neustrie pareil a cbarlemaigne

286

CAEN.

now remains but a flat black marble slab^ witiii a short
inscription^ of quite a recent date.

Pftssay le mer par un doux rent de siut

Pour conquester toute la grand bretugne

Puis desployer fis miunte noble enseigne

£t dresser tentes et pavilions de guerre

Et ondrier fis comme fil d'araigne

Neuf cent grand's nefz si tost qui euz pied a teire

Et puis en armes de la partis grauderre

Pour coups recenz au doubte roy heranlt

Dont come preux i'euz toute la deferre

Non pas sans dur et manreilleux assault

Pour bien jouster le desloyal ribault

Je mis a mort et soixante et sept mille

Neuf cents dixhuict et par unsi d'un sault

Fnz roy d'anglois tenant toute leur isle

Or n'est il nue tant soit fort et habile

Qui quant c'est fut i^res ne se repose

Mort m'a deffiedt que suis il cendre vile

De toute choses ou jouit une pose.

The cardinal^ who^ as well as the rest of the spectators, was greatly
surprised at finding the body in so perfect a state, aflter having been
buried near four hundred and fifty years, in order to perpetuate the
memory of so remarkable an incident, procured a picture of the royal
remains, in the condition they then appeared, to be painted on board,
by the most eminent painter of the place, and caused it to be htmg up,
together with the before-mentioned original inscription, on the wall of
the abbey church, opposite to the monument. The tomb being agan
carefully closed, remained undisturbed until the year 1 B6^, when the
Calvinists, in a religious fury, forced it open, in expectation of meeting
with immense treasures, but finding nothing more than the bones of
the Conqueror, wrapt up in red taffets^ they threw them about the
church in great derision, after having broken in pieces the monument,
together with the royal eflfigies which lay thereon. Most of the bones
were afterwards collected together by Monsieur de Bras, and delivered
into the custody of Father Michael de CanaUe one of the monks and
bailly of the abbey, who carefully lodged them in his cell, with an in-

CAEN.

In the present state of the abbey, and even in that of
BucareFs time, there is, and was, a great dearth of se-
pulchral monuments. Indeed I know not whether

tent to restore them to their ancient place of sepulture^ as soon as the
troubles should be ended but the town being some time after taken
hj Admiral Chastellion^ the religious were driven from the abbey^ and
the royal remains once more dispersed. However^ the Viscount de
lUaise having at the time of these disturbances obtained from the
rioters one of the thigh bones^ it was by him afterwards deposited in
the royal grave. About the same time the picture of the Conqueroi^s
remains^ as they appeared lying in the tomb^ in the year 1582, fell in
the hands of Peter Hod^, gaoler of Caen, and one of the rioters,
who converted one part thereof into a table, and used the other as a
cupboard door; but these being four years after discovered and re*
daimed by Monsieur de Bras, remained in his possession till his death,
since which time it is unknown what is become of them. Jnglo'
Norman Antiquities', p. 51-4.

It should be noticed that, " besides the immense benefactions which
William in his life time conferred upon this abbey, he, on his death,
presented thereto the crown which he used to wear at all high festi-
vals, together with his sceptre and rod : a cup set with precious stones ;
his candlesticks of gold, and all his regalia 5 as also the ivory
bugle-horn which usually hung at his back.*' p. 5 1 . note. The story of
the breaking open of the coffin by the Calvinists, and finding the Con-
queror's remains, is told by Bourgueville — who was an eye witness of
these depredations, and who tried to soften the obdurate hearts" of
the pillagers, but in vain. This contemporaneous historian observes
that, in his time " the abbey was filled with beautiful and curious
stained-glass windows and harmonious organs, which were all broken
and destroyed — and that the seats, chairs, &c., and all other wooden
materials were consumed by fire," p. 171 • Huet observes that a " Dom
Jean de Baillehache and Dom Matthieu de la Dangie, religious of St.
Stephen's, took care of the monument of the Conqueror in the year
1642, and replaced it in the state in which it appeared in Huet's time."
Origines de Caen-, p. 248. The revolution was still more terrible than
Cahrinistic fury:— fbr no traces of the monument are now to be seen.

386

CAEN.

you need be deUuned another minute widiin the inte-
rior ; except it be to add your share of admiration to
that which has been long and justly bestowed upoQ
the huge organ* at the west end of the nave, which is

* die huge organ] — " The west window is almost totally obscoied
by a most gigantic organ built close to it^ and allowed to be the finest
in aU France. This organ is so big, as to require eleven large bellows,
&c.*' Ducard, p. 57. He then goes on to observe, that amongst
the plate preserved in the treasury of this church, is a curious
•ibVSB SALVXB, about ten inches in diameter^ gilt, and inlaid with an-
tique medals. Tradition assures us, th&t it was on this salver, that
king William the conqneror phiced the foundatioa charier of the abbey
when he presented it, at the high altar, on the dedication of the church.
The edges of this salver, which stands on a foot stalk of the same
metal, are a little turned up, and,carved. In the centre is inlaid a
Greek medal ^ on the obverse whereof is this legend, AvaaAp Avkomc
but it being fixed in its socket, the reverse is not visible. The other
medals, forty in number, are set round the rim, in holes punched quite
through ; so that the edges of the holes serve as frames for the medals.
These medals are Roman, and in the highest preservation. They Wjcre
probably collected by Duke Robert, ftither of the Conqueror, during
his pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and after his death fell into the
hands of his son."

*' The convent is a fine stone building, consisting of two quad-
rangles 'j one whereof hath of late been partly rebuilt three of its sides
being already finished. The galleries and cells for the monks are
upon the principal and second stories. Under them, on the ground-
floor, is a large refectory, fronting the garden, and near it a hand-
some room, well fitted up, called la Salle de compagnie^ where, over
the chimney, I was shewn a diminished picture of William the
Conqueror, copied from the original, stiU preserved in the porter's
lodge, and of which I shall speak hereafter. In the same room are
likewise the pictures of the present king and queen of France, that of
Cardinal Fleury, formerly abbot of this convent ; and some others.
The south side of this quadrangle, which was formerly the abbatial
house, is now in a ruinous conditionji but is intended to be soon rebuilt.

eAEN.

289

considered to be the finest in all France. But Nor-
mandy abounds in church decorations of this kind.
Leaving therefore this venerable pile, endeared to the
British antiquary by a thousand pleasing associations
of ideas, we strike off into an adjoining court yard,
and observe the ruins of a pretty extensive pile of
building, which is called by Ducarel the Palace of
the Conqueror * But in this supposed palace, in its*

The second, or inner quadrangle, is very laige, but not closely built.
Some of the windows of the apartments have pointed arches, but
otiiers are circular, as are likewise those of the house at present appro-
priated for the abbot's residence, and which was part of the ancient
palace. The whole of these buildings is encompassed with laige and
extensive gardens.** AngUh-Norman Antiquities; p. 57.

• called by Ducarel the palace of the Conqueror.'] — ^It may be as
well to give the whole of DucareFs account of this palace, as time (even
fifty years !) has now given it a so decidedly altered character. That
the building, in its present construction, was ever inhabited by Wil-
liam the Conqueror is utterly absurd to imagine. Ducarel has en-
deavoured to render his description more palateable by the addition of
a copper plate representation of a portion of this supposed regal resi-
dence. But he shall speak for himself.

" Within the precinct of this abbey, adjoining to the church, king
MHUiamthe Conqueror built a stately palace, for his own residence :
several parts of it still remain ; particidarly one apartment, which is
very large, and makes a noble appearance. The rooms in this apart-
ment are at present used as granaries, but were formerly called the
Guard chambers and Baron*s hall. These are perhaps as well worth
the notice of an English antiquary, as any thing within the province
of Nonnandy. One of these rooms, and indeed the principal now re-
maining, was distinguished by the name of the Great Guard Cham-
ber. This room, the cieling whereof is vaulted, and forms a most
magnificent arch, is lofty, and well proportioned, being one hundred
and fifty feet in length, and ninety in breadth. The windows on the
east and west sides are decorated with fluted pillar8,«nd at each end is

990

CAEN.

present state, most assuredly William I. never resided :
for it is clearly not older than the thirteenth centmy: if

a beautifiil rose window of sUme work, glazed with painted glaas of
exquisite workmanship. On the north sides are two magnificent chim-
neys in good preservation ; and round the whole of the room runs a
stone bench intended for the convenience of the several persons dmng
duty therein. The floor is paved with tiles, each near five inches
■qoare, baked almost to vitrification. Eight rows of these tiles,
running from east to west, are charged with different coats of arms,
generally said to be those of the families who attended Duke William
in his invasion of England. The intervals between each of these rows
are filled up with a kind of tessellated pavement i the middle whereof
represents a maze, or labyrinth, about ten feet in diameter, and so art-
fliUy contrived, that, were we to suppose a man following all the in-
tricate meanders of its volutes, he could not travel less than a mile be-
fore he got from the one end to the other. The remainder of this floor
is inlaid with small squares of different colours, placed alternately,
and formed into draught or chess boards, for the amusement of the
sdidiery whilst on guard. Turning out of this room on the left hand,
you enter into a smaller room, called the Banm^s Hall, twenty-four
feet in breadth and twenty-seven feet in length ; paved with the same
sort of tiles as the former — but with this difference, that instead of
coats of arms they are stained with figures of stags, and dogs in full
chase. The walls of this room seem to have been ornamented with
escutcheons of arms painted on heater shields, some of which are still
remaining.**

The fertile foncy of Ducarel will here have it that " it was in this
guard chamber, and the baron*s hall a4ioining, that King William the
Conqueror, as tradition tells us, in the most sumptuous manner enter-
tained his mother Arlette with her wedding dinner on the day
of her marriage to Harluin Count de ConteviUe, by whom she had
Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, &c. &c,"

It is further remarkable, that, notwithstanding these rooms have
been used as granaries for upwards of four hundred years, neither the
damps of the wheat, the turning and shifUng of the grain, nor the
wooden shoes or spades of the peasants constantly eiB|dqyed in Mng-

CAEN.

291

ancients. Ducarel saw a great deal more than is now to
be seen ; for, in fact, as I attempted to gain entrance into

lag in and cleansing the wheat> have in the least damaged the floor> or
worn off the painting from the tiles. The only injury this floor hath
reeeired, is the taking up some few of the tiles, in order to open
flmnds through the floor for the more ready conveyance of the corn
inlo the rooms beneath. The great door of the guard room is very
ciirkms, and shows the skill of the woikmen of those times. It Is
loaded with fine carvings, and though injured by time and the putting
on and pulling off its locks, is well worth observation. Under these
rooms is another apartment, supported by fine columns. They were
formerly used as waiting rooms for persons of inferior rank, but are
now likewise converted into granaries.

Opposite to the great wall, which was taken down about twenty
years since, and till that time had for many years served as a dormitoiy
for the monks, stood an ancient chapel, built before the abbey was
founded j upon the outside of the wall of this chapel, were painted in
fttaco, four portraits, as big as life, representing WUUam the Conqueror,
his wife Matilda, and their two sons, Robert and WiUiam, The Con-
queror was drawn as a very tall man, clothed in a royal robe, and
standing on the back of an hound couchant : on his head was a diadem,
ornamented with trefoils, his left hand pointed to his breast ; and in
his right he held a sceptre surmounted with a fleur de lys. Queen
Matilda was dressed in a kirtle and mantle, and had on her head a di-
adem similar to that of her husband from the under part whereof
hung a veil, which was represented as foiling carelessly behind her
shoulders; in her right hand was a sceptre, sunnounted with a fleur de
lys, and in her left, a book : her feet were supported by the figure of a
lion. Duke Robert was represented as standing on a hound, and clad
in a'tunique, over which was thrown a short robe, or mantle, his head
was covered with a bonnet upon his right hand, clothed with a glove,
stood a hawk ; and in his left hand was a lure. The picture of
Duke William represented him as a youth bare headed, dressed in the
same habit as his brother, and standing upon a fobulous monster, pro*
bably intended for a double-bodied harpy, it having only one head
with the face of a virgin, and two bodies, each resembling in akmpe
VOL. I. S

292

CAEN.

iwhat appeared to be the principal room, I was stopped
by an old woman, who assured me qu'il n*y avoit

•thai of a bird ; each of the bodies of this monster tenninated in the
tail of a cat, and had the hind legs of a swine; the left hand of this
Prince was clothed with a glove, and supported a falcon, which he was
^feeding with his right. These paintings are supposed to have been
•coeval with the foundation of the abbey of St. Stephen; and to have
been drawn from the life : [of course !] They were destroyed in the
year.1700, when the chi^ was pulled down but fortunately ftther
•Montfaucon had previously procured drawings of them to be made;
•and from those drawing I have caused them to be engraven.** AngUh
Norman AnHquiHes; p. 69.

I have caused reduced, but fedthful, copies of the two first, and
die last of these figures to be taken ; and I here put it to the reader
•how it is possible that such figures, as the first and the last^ in such
different costumes, can be meant to represent the same person ?

In regard to this supposed regal palace, I am surprised how Huet
could observe that the abbey and the palace were of the same stmc-
tose." They are surely quite different — unless Huet saw what has
since been demolished. That cautious antiquary observer, however.

CAEN.

Tidn que da chauffiige/* It was trae enough: the
trliole of the untenanted interior contained nothing
but wood fuel. Returning to the principal street,
and making a slight digression to the right, you descend
somewhat abruptly by the side of a church in ruins,
called St. Etienne le Vieil. In DucareFs time this
i^ureh is described as entire. On the exterior of one
of the remaining buttresses is a whole length figure,
about four EngUsh feet in height (as far as I could guess
by the eye) of a man on horseback — mutilated — ^tramp-
ling upon another man at its feet.
' It is no doubt a curious and uncommon ornament.
But would you believe it? — this figure also, in the
t^inion of M. Le Bras,* was intended for William

properly rejects the supposition that the coat armours are of the time
of William the Conqueror. He adds^ veryjudiciously^ thatj in respect
to residence, " he is persuaded that that monarch was more fre-
quently at his castle than at his palace.** Origines de Caen-, p. 247.

* See the Jnglo-Narman Antiquities; p, 74. Bourgueville fevours
the same hypothesis; but his description of the group, as it appeared
in his time, trips up the heels of this conjecture. He says that there
were, besides the two figures above mentioned, ^* vn autre honmie et
femme h, genoux, comme s*ils demandoient raison de la mort de leur
en&nt, qui est vne antiquity de grand remarque dont ie ne puis
donner autre certitude de Thistoire.** Antiquitez de Caen ; p. 39.
Now it is this additional portion of the group (at present no longer in
existence) which should seem to confirm the conjecture of my friend
Mr. Douce — that it is a representation of the received story, in the
middle ages, of the Emperor Trajan being met by a widow who de-
manded justice against the murderer of her son. The Emperor, who
had just mounted his horse to set out upon some hostile expedition,
replied, that he would listen to her on his return.** The wonuin said>
'* What, if you never return ?** " My successor will satisfy you** — he
replied — ''But how will that benefit yon^'* — resumed the widow. The

CAEN.

*mE Conqueror — ^representing his trinmphant entry
into Caen ! As an object of art, even in its present
mutilated state, it is highly interesting; and I re-
joice that M. Cotman is likely to preserve! the
little that i-emains from the hazard of destruction by
the fidelity of his own copy of it. It is quite clear that,
close to the figure, you discover traces of style which
are unequivocally of the time of Francis I. The in-
terior of what remains of this consecrated edifice is con-
verted into a receptacle for . . carriages for hire. IShea 1
Not far from this spot stood formerly a magnificent
Cross — demolished during the memorable visit of the
Calvinists. I was told that drawings and prints of it
were yet in existence.* In the way to the abbey ot
the Trinity, quite at the opposite or eastern eictremity

Emperor then descended from his horse^ and enquiring into the wo-
man's case^ caused justice to be done to her. Some of the stories say
that the murderer was the £mperor*s own son.

♦ prints of it [the cross] yet in existence."] — Bouipieville has fur-
nished us with a very minute description of this cross — such as it
was before its destruction by the Calvinists. " Ceste grande et
belle Croix estoit d*une structure singuliere, dont la masse contenoit
quinze pieds de haut, et trente de tour^ sur laquelle masse y
auoit cinq coulonnes de vingt pieds de haut^ & n*auoient que demy
pied de diamettre pour chacun chapiteau^ sur les dites coulonnes
y auoit vne masse dc sept pieds de haut & de deux pieds & demy dia-
mettre^ & entour estoient poshes quatre images de dnq pieds de haut,
et sur Tamortissement du chapiteau estoit une belle Croix plants de
cinq pieds de hauteur auecques autres imaginaires^ et graueures memo-
rabies de belle et forte pierre^ & tour au tour d'icelle vn grand escalier
de degrez^ par les quelz les Catholiques amontoyent & receuoyoient ce
signe de Croix au jour dcs Rameaux^ qui leur reduissoit en m^moirede
la passion de nostre Seigneur. Et en ce quel quartier de St. Estiennei
residoient du temps de ma ieunesse vn bon iiombre d'officiers en de
belles et magnifiques maisons^ &c.'* AntiquUex de Caenj p. 17.

CAEN.

295

<rf the town, you necessarily pass along the Rue St.
Pierre, and enter into the market-place^ affording
an opening before the most beautiful church in
aU Normandy. It is the church of St. Pierre de
DsRNETAL* of which I now speak, and from which the

* the church of St, Pierre de Demetal.'] — Situate in the middle of
the town, and remarkable for the elegance and beauty of its spire,
which is extremely lofty, and so admirably contrived, that, at what
part soever of the church you enter, the eye does not discover either
of the four columns on which the spire rests. This elegant piece of
masonry was completed in the beginning of the xivth century, by
[the cost and charges ofj one Nicholas, an Englishman, who was at
that time a burgess of Caen, and treasurer of this church. At the
tfane of his death, which happened in June, in the year 1317> the fol-
lowing epitaph, preserved by Monsieur de Bras, was composed ; but
it is not altc^ther certain whether it was ever placed over his grave,
or not:

LE VENDREDY DEVANT TOUT DROICT

LA SAINT CLERQUE LE TEMPS n'eST FBOIT

TBE8PA88A NICOLLE L*AN0L0IS

L*AN MIL TBOIS CENS ET DIX SEPT

SON CORPS GIST CY L*AMB A DIBU 80IT

CHASCUN KN PRIE CAB C*EST BIEN DROICT.

BOURGEOIS ESTOIT DE NOBILE GUISE
MOVLTE DE filEN FIST EN CESTE EOLISB
TBBSOBIEB EN FUT LONGUEMENT
BT PAB LUY ET PAB SA DEVISE
FUT LA TOUB EN SA VOYK MISB
D*XSTBE FAICTE SI NOBLEMBNT,

PBUO* HOMS ESTOIT COURTOI8 ET SAGS

BT SANS OBGUEIL ET SANS OUTBAUE

DB TOUS GENS CHEBY ET AIME

DB SA MORT SB FUT GBAND DOMMAOB

SON BSPBIT SOIT EN l'hEBITAOE

OB PABADIS SOIT HOIB CLAMB.

296

CAEN.

name of the street is derived. The tower and spire, the,
effect ofENQLisH liberality, are of the most admirable

The remainder (two stanzas) > is devoted to his wife who died the
2d October, in the same year :

OBAND DOMMAGE FUT COMME ON SCAIT
CAR ELLE BSTOIT BIBN SAGE BT 80BBE
OR PRIBZ PAB DBTOTION
QU'lLB ATBNT PLEINE REMISSION.

The body of another of our countrymen, Michael Treoorb, the;
first rector of the University of Caen, lies buried at the entrance of the
choir of this church, where his effigies still remains. Te Deum is
constantly sung in this church upon all high festivals and other solemn
occasions, and from hence it is, that the clergy and religious of Caen
set out, in order to make their public processions.** Anglo-Norman
Antiquities, p. 72.

Ducarel, in saying that the above epitaph was preserved by M. Le
Bras, appears to have been unacquainted with its preservation by
Boui^eville a century and a half before. Bouigueville is extremely
particular and even eloquent in his account of the tower, &c. He
says that he had " seen towers at Paris, Rouen, Toulouse, Avignon,
Narbonne, Montpelier, Lyons, Amiens, Chartres, Anglers, Bayeux,
Constances, (qu. Coutances ?) and those of St. Stephen at Caen, and
others, in divers parts of France, which are built in a pyramidal form
— ^but THIS Tower of St. Peter exceeded all the others, as well in
its height, as in its curious form of construction.** Antiq, de Caen;
p. 36. He regrets, however, that the name of the architect has not
descended to us. His more particular eulogy upon this tower is worth
transcription: " C'est vn grand cas & bien digne de remarque que
neanmoins la hauteur de ceste tour piramide, qui semble auoisiner les
nues, le soufflement et violence des vents, la rigueur des gellees, la
froideur des nieges, gresles, & frimats, Tabondance des pluyes, la ve-
hemence des chaleurs du soleil, et orages, la lueur et humidity de la
lune, n'ont faict aucun dommage, ny apparence de firoissure k au-
cunes des pierres de ceste tour depuis son edification.'* &c. p. 38. At
page 145 he relates a hardy adventure of a young man who mounted
on the outside to the very summit, to take down the weather cock,

CAEN.

297

form and workmanship. Mr. Lewis went to the left,
facing the great window, at right angles witli the Rue
St. Pierre, and made the beautiful drawing, of which a
copy is here sent you.* Observe the extreme delicacy

which had grown stiflf> and would not turn — II auoit (concludes he)
vn cer\'cau bien asseur6, & plus de temerity que de sagesse.**

Huet is somewhat particular in his account of the locale of the
parish of St. Pierre de Dametal : observing^ firsts that it had the names
of Pierre sous Caen, and S, Pierre du Chdtel en rive. Of the appel-
lative " Dametalj" he thus remarks. Mais le nom qu'on luy a
donni^S plus commun^ment^ a 6t6 S. Pierre dc Dametal. C*6toit
Tancicn nom du principal lieu de cette paroiflse^ et peut-^tre de la pa-
roisse toute enti^re : car le Pont de Saint Pierre, et un moulin sur
rOdoUj dont il est parl^ dans la Chartre de fondation de I'Abbaye de
S. Etienne, ont port6 le nom de Darnetal." Again : " Le nom de Dar-
netal.que rondonnoitit ce lieu, semble marquer un bourg, un village,
ou une seigneurie.'* Of the different periods of the completion of the
church, he goes on to say : Quoy qu'il en soit, le b£ttiment a ^t^ fait
k diverses reprises. M. de Bras en a marqu^ quelques dattes : celle
du docher, en Fan 1308; ccUe de Taile du c6t6 du Carrefour, en Van
1410 i celle de 1* autre aile quelque terns api^ : le rond-point et les
voutes du choeur et des atles, FanlSSl. Jacques de Cahuignes a
donn^ rang panni les iUustres citoyens de Caen, k Hector Sohier,
oflebre architectes pour avoir fait les voutes du choeur et des alles de
oette EgUse/* Origines de Caen -, p. 263, 4, 7, 8 ; 1702, 8vo. Huet
msys not one single word in commendation of the building. He is
unong the driest of dry antiquaries. Reverting, however, to old
BousGUEViLLE, 1 cannot take leave of him without expressing my

« bcuty thanks for the amusement and information which his unosten-
tatious octavo volume^entitlcd Les Recherdhes et Antiquitez de la

' FUk ef Universite de Caen, ^c. (A Caen, 1588, 8vo.) has afforded me.

I Aad as we love to.be made acquainted with the persons of those, from

' whom we have received instruction and pleasure, so take, gentle
reader, a representation of the Portrait of BouRouEviLLs-^as it ap-
jpan on the reverse of the title of the book just mentioned.

* See the Opposite Plate.

298

CAENw

Ce Pourtrait & maint liure
Par le Peintre & I'escrit,
Feront reuoir et viure
Ta face & ton esprit. I. V. D. L. F.
Hoc pictoris opu8> vigilataque scripta labore
£t vultum & mentem pott tua busta fereut.

CAEN.

299

and pictui*esque effect of the stone tiles, with which the
spire is covered, as well as the lightness and im-
posing consequence given to the tower upon which
the spire rests! The whole has a charming effect.
But severe criticism compels one to admit that the
body of the church is defective in point of fine taste
and unity of parts. The style is not only florid Gothic,
but it is luxuriant, even to rankness, if I may so
speak. The parts are capriciously put together : filled,
and even crammed, with ornaments of apparently all
ages : concluding with the Grecian mixture introduced
in the reign of Francis I. The buttresses are, how-
ever, generally, lofty and airy. Towards the op-
posite extremity of this view, a branch of the river
Ome, if not the river itself, runs : and from the prome-
nade, or part where the post office is established, the
body of the church is seen with all its grotesque and
multiform divisions. In the midst of this complicated
and corrupt style of architecture, the tower and spire
rise like a structure built by preternatural bands 4 and
I am not sure that, at this moment, I can recollect
any thing of equal beauty and effect in the whole
range of ecclesiastical edifices in our own country.
Look at this building, from any part of the town, and
you must acknowledge that it has the stongest claims

The author^ who tells us he was bora in 1504^ lived through the
most critical and not unperilous period of the times in which he wrote.
His plan is perfectly artless^ and his style as completely simple. Nor
does his fidelity appear impeachable. Such ancient volumes of topo-
graphy are invaluable— as preserving the memory of things and of ob-
jects^ which, but for such record, must perish without the hope or chance
of recovery.

300

CAEN.

to unqualified admiration. The body of the church
is of very considerable dimensions. I entered it on
a Sunday morning, about eleven o'clock, and found
it quite filled with a large congregation, in which
the cauchxnsej as usual, appeared like a broad white
mass — from one end to the other. The priests were
in> procession ; one of the most magnificent organs
imaginable was in full intonation, with every stop
opened; the voices of the congregation were lustily
exercised : and the offices of religion were carried on
in a manner which should seem to indicate a warm
sense of devotion among the worshippers. There is a
tolerably good set of modem paintings (the best which
I have yet seen in the interior of a church) of the Life
of Christ J in the side chapels. The eastern extremity,
or the farther end of Our Ladjfs Chapel, is most hor-
ribly bedaubed and overloaded with the most tasteless
specimens of what is called Gothic art, perhaps ever
witnessed ! The great bell of this church, which has an
uncommonly deep and fine tone, is for ever

Swin^ng slow with solemn roar !

that is to say, is tolling from five in the morning till
ten at night, for the performance of the several offices
of religion, so incessantly, in one side-chapel or ano-
ther, are these offices carried on within this maternal
parish church.

I saw, with momentary astonishment, the leaning
tower of a church in the Rue St. Jean, which is on6
of the principal sti*eets in the town: and. which

CAEN.

301

terminated by the Piacf des Cazernes, flanked by the
river Orne. In this street I was asked, by a book-
seller, two pounds two shillings, for a thumbed and
cropt copy of the Elzevir^Heins^ius Horace of 1629 ; but
with which demand I did not of course comply. In
&€t, they have the most extravagant notions of the
prices of Elzevirs, both hei*e and at Rouen. We shall
see how this rage increases, or cools, as we approach
F^ris. But you must now attend me in a visit to the
most interesting public building, perhaps all things
considered, which is to lie seen at Caen : I mean the
Abbey of the Holy Trinity^ or L'Abbave aux Dambs.*
This abbey was founded by the wife of the Conqueror,
about the same time that William erected that of St,
Stephen. It was founded for nuns of the Benedictin
order. DucareFs description of it, which I have just
seen in a copy of the Anglo-Norman Antiquities^ in a
bookseller s shop, is sufficiently meagre, as are also his
plates sufficiently miserable : but things ai'e stranger
ly altered since his time. The nave of the church
is occupied by a manufactory for making cordage, or
twine, and upwards of a hundred lads are now busied
in their flaxen occupations, where formerly the nun
knelt before the cross, or was occupied in auricular con-
fession, llie entrance at the western extremity is
entirely stopped up: but the exterior gives manifest
proof of an antiquity equal to that of the Abbey of St.

* Of this building M. Cotman has published the West fronts east
end^ exterior and interior ; great arches under the tower ^ crypt 3 east
side of South transept ; elevation of the North side of the choir : eleva-
iioD of the window ; South side exterior 3 view down the nave, N.W.
direction.

CAEN.

Stephen. A representation of the western front of this
exterior will be drawn and engraved by M. Cotman ;
together with one of the subterraneous Saxon-called
arches. Hie upper part of the towers are palpably
of the fifteenth, or rather of the early part of the six-
teenth century. I had no opportunity of judging of
the neat pavement of the floor of the nave, in white
and black marble, as noticed by Ducarel, on account
of the occupation of this part of the building by the
muiufisu^turing children ; but I saw some very ancient
tomb-stones (one I think of the twelfth century) which
had been removed from the nave or side aisles, and
were placed perpendicularly, or rather leaning a little
against the sides of the north transept. The nave is
entirely walled up from the transepts, but the choir is
£Mtunately preserved ; and a more perfect and inte-
resting specimen of its kind, and of the same antiquity,
is perhaps no where to be seen in Normandy. All
the monuments as well as the altars, described by
Ducarel, are now taken away. Having ascended a
stone staircase^ we got into the upper part of the choir,
above the first row of pillars — and walked along the
wall. This was rather adventurous, you will say : but
a more adventurous spirit of curiosity had nearly
proved fieital to me : for, on quitting day-lig^t, we
pursued a winding stone staircase,* in our way to the
central tower — ^from hence to have a view of the town.
I almost tremble as I relate it. There had been put
up a sort of temporary wooden staircase, leading abso-
lutely to . . . nothing : or rather to a dark void space.
I happened to be foremost in ascending this, yet grop-
ing in the dark — ^with the guide luckily close bdiind

CAEN.

908

me : and having reached the topmost step, was raising
my foot to a supposed higher or succeeding step . . .
bnt there was none ! A depth of eighteen feet at least
was below me. The guide caiight my coat, as I was
about to lose my balance — and roared out " Arretez —
tenez !" The least balance or inclination, one way or
the other, is sufficient, upon these critical occasions :
when luckily, from his catching my coat, and thereby
pulling me slightly backwards, my fall . . and my life . •
were equally saved ! I have reason from henceforth to
remember the Abbaye aux Dambs at Caen.

However, let us proceed. We gained the top of the
central tower, which is not of equal altitude with those
of the western extremity, and from thence sur-
veyed the town, as well as the drizzling rain would per-
mit us. I saw enough however to convince me that the
scite of this abbey is fine and commanding. Indeed
it stands nearly upon the highest ground in the town.
Ducarel had not the glorious ambition to mount to
the top of the tower ; and did not even possess that
most commendable of all species of architectural cu-
riosity, a wish to visit the crypt. Thus, in either extre-
mity— whether to gaze upon the starry heavens, or to
commune with the silent dead — we evinced a more
laudable spirit of enterprise than did our old-fashioned
predecessor. Accordingly, from the summit, you must
accompany me to the lowest depth of the building.
We descended by the same (somewhat intricate) route^
and I took especial care to avoid all temporary
wooden stair-cases.*' The ciypt, beneath the choir^ is
perhaps of yet greater interest and beauty than the
choir itself. Within an old, very old stone coffin — at

804

CAEN.

the further circular end— are the pulverised retnahig
of one of the earliest Abbesses. I gazed around with
mixed sensations of veneration and awe, and threw my-
self back into centuries past, foncying that the shrond-
ed figure of Matilda herself ghdM by, with a look as
if to approve of my antiquarian enthusiasm. Havii^
gratified our curiosity by a careful survey of this sub-
terraneous abode, we revisited the r^ons of day-ligfat,
and made towards the large building, now a manufiie-
tory, which in Ducarel's time had been a nunnery.*

^ in DucareFs time had been a nunnery.]-— Ducarel's account of this
nunnery^ is as follows : — I was not permitted to see any other part
of the Abbey, except the Lady Abbess's parlour, which is a small room
commanding a most delightful prospect of the country, exten^Ki^ to a
great distance, this abbey being situated on a very high hiU. Among
the muniments preserved here, is a very curious manuscript, containing
an account of the foundress. Queen Matilda's wardrobe, jewels, toi-
lette, &c. but I was not able to procure a copy of it, neither would
the abbess admit me to a sight of a very ancient picture which hangs
in one of the rooms, and is generally thought to be that of Matilda,
tiieir first abbess, dressed in the habit of a nun ^ though some are
rather inclined to believe it to be the picture of the royal foundress.
Cicely, eldest daughter of William the Conqueror, having in the year
1075, made her profession at Fescamp, was, upon the dedication of
this church, removed hither, in order to be educated under the care of
Matilda the first abbess, upon whose decease she succeeded to the go-
vernment of the abbey ; which she managed with singular piety, for
the space of fifteen years, and dying upon the 13th day of July in the
year 1 126 was buried in the church of the monastery, having worn a
religious habit for the space of fifty-two years. From that time the
government hath constantly been conferred on ladies of the first rank.
All the nuns are likewise daughters of persons of high birth, no others
being admitted to take the veil here.*' — Anglo-Norman AntiqtMes, p.
96. There is of course an end to every thing of the kind at the preaent
day.

CAEN.

306

The revolution has swept away every human being
in the character of a nun ; but the director of the
manu&ctory shewed us, with great civility, some
relics, of oldc rosses, rings, veils, lachrymatories, &c.
which had been taken from the crypt we had recently
visited— on account of erecting some tomb, or eleva*
tifig some portion of the ground, to the i*emains of a
person of distinction — ^whether of old or modem times,
I cannot just now recollect. These relics savoured of
considerable antiquity. Tom Hearne would have set
about proving that they must have belonged to Ma-
tilda herself; but I will have neither the presumption
nor the merit of attempting this proof. They seemed
indeed to have undergone half a dozen decompositions.
Upon the whole, if our Antiquarian Society, after
having exhausted the cathedrals of their own country,
should ever think of perpetuating the principal eccle-
siastical edifices of Normandy, by means of the Art
of Engravingy let them begin their labours with the
Abbayb aux Dames at Caen.

The forgoing, my dear friend, are the principal
ecclesiastical buildings in this place. There are other
public edifices, but comparatively of a modern date.
And yet I should be guilty of a gross omission were I

BotirgueviUe describes the havoc which took place within this abbey
at the memorable visit of the Calvinists in 1562. From plundering the
church of St. Stephen (as before described p. 386>) they proceeded to
commit similar ravages here : — " sans auoir respect ni reuerence k la
Dume Abbesse, ni k la religion et douceur feminine des Dames Reli-
gKuaes.**— plusieurs des officiers de la maison 8*y trouuerent, vsans
de gradeuses persuasions, pour penser flechir le cceur de ces plus que
brutaux p. 174.

306

CAEN.

to neglect giving yon an acconnt^ however snperficial,
of the remains of an apparently castellated build*
iNo, a little beyond the Abbaye aux Dames— or rather
to the right, upon elevated ground, as you enter the
town by the way we came. As far as I can discover^
this appears to have escaped Ducarel.* It is doubtless
a very curious relic. Running along the upper part
of the walls, is a series of basso-relievo heads, medal-
lion-wise, cut in stone, evidently intended for por-
traits. They are assuredly not older than the rdgn oi
Francis I. but may be even as late as that of Henry II.
Among these rude medallions, is a female head, with a
ferocious-looking man on each side of it, dther sahrt-
ing the woman, or whispering in her ear. But the
most striking objects are the stone figures of two men
— upon a circular tower— of which one is in the act
of shooting an arrow, and the other as if holding a
drawn sword. We got admittance to the interior of the
.building ; and ascending the tower, found that these
were only the trunks of figures, — and removable at
pleasure. We could only stroke their beards and

• appears to have escaped Ducarel,'] — Unless it be what he calls
the FORT OF THB HoLY Trinity OF Caen ; in which was constantly
kept a garrison, commanded by a captain, whose annual pay was 100
single crowns. This was demolished by Charles, king of Nararre, in
the year 1360, during the war which he carried on against Charles the
dauphin, afterwards Charles V., &c.** Anglo-Norman Antiquities, p. 67.
This castle, or the building once flanked by the walls above described,
was twice taken by the English: once in 1346, when they made an
immense booty, and loaded their ships with the gold and silver vessels
found therein — and the second time in 1417^ — when they established
themselves as masters of the place for 33 years. Animoite du Caka-
dosi 1803-4) p. 63.

CABN.

307

diake thdr bodies a little, which we of course did
with impunity.. Whether the present be the original
place of their destination may be very doubtful. The
Abb^ de la Rue, W)t|i whom I discoursed upon the sub-
ject yesterday morning, is of opinion that these figures
a)p^4>f the time of Louis XI. : which makes them a little
illpre ancient than the other ornaments of the build-
uig.. . As to the interior, I could' gather nothing with
certainty of the original character of the place from the
present remains. The earth is piled up, here and th^,
in . artificial mounds covered with grass : and an or-
chard, and rich pasture land (where we saw several
women milking cows) form the whole of the interior
acenery* However the Caennois are rather rproiid of
t^his building.

^. Leaving you to your own conclusions respecting
tj^e date of its erection, and putting the colc^faon'*
to. this disquisition respecting the princqMd public
bpildings at Caen, it is high time to assure you* how .
fiuthfully I am always yours.

VOL. r.

308

LETTER XIV.

UTBRARY 80CIBTY. ABB^ DB LA RUB. 'MBBBM.

purbb-aimA lair and lamouroux* mbdal of

MALHBRBB. BOOKSBLLERS. THB PUBLIC LIBRARY.
MBMOIR OF THB LATB M. MOY8ANT, PUBLIC LIBRA*
RIAN. MANUSCRIPTS AND PRINTED BOOKS. PRO-
TESTANT PLACB OF WORSHIP. COURTS OF JU8TICB.

From the dead let me conduct you to the Iirm^.
In other words^ prepare to recdve some account (sf
Society,— of Libraries — and of things appertaming to
the formation of the intellectual character. Caen can
boast oi a public Literary Society, and of the publica-
tion of its memoirs.* But these memoirs^ consist at
present of only six volumes, and are in our own coun-
try extremely rare. My excellent friend, Pierre- Aim6
Lair, made me a present of a set, which I intend for
Lord Spencer's library. The volumes are in crown
octavo, tolerably well printed.

Among the men whose moral character and literary
reputation throw a sort of lustre upon Caen, there is
no one perhaps that stands upon quite so lofty an emi-

* M^moins de rJcadende det BeUet Lettres de Caen, CkezJaequet
Manoury, 1757« 4 voU, croum Svo, Rapport g^nirale tur les traoaus de
tJcademie det Sciences, ArU, et BeUee Lettres de la villede Caenjusqu*au
premier Janvier, 1811. Par P. F. T, Delarnnere, Secretaire. A Caen,
thex Chalopin. An. 1811 — 15. Q vols, on different paper, with diffs-
rent types, and provokiogly of a larger fbnn than its precunor.

CAEN.

309

lieiice as the Abb£ dr la Rub ; at this time oceupiied
in publishinga /Ti^/oi^ of Caen in two quarto volumes.
As an archaeologist, he has no superior among his coun-
trjrmen ; while his essays upon the BayeUx Tapestry and
theAnglo-Norman Poets, published in our Archa^ologia,
prove that there are few, even among ourselves, who
could have treq,!ted those interesting subjects with more
dcKterity or better success. The Ahh6 is, in short, the
great archaeological oracle of Normandy. He was
pleased to pay me a visit at Lagouelle*s. He is fisust
advancing towards his seventieth year. His figure is
father stout, and above the mean height : his com*
{dexion is healthful, his eye brillisint, and a plentiful
quantity of waving white hair adds much to the expresr
Am of his countenance. He enquired kindly after
oar mutual Mend Mr. Douce ; of whose talents and
character he spoke in a manner which did equal honour
to both. But he was inexorable, as to — not dining
with me : observing that his Order was forbidden to
dine in taverns. He gave me a list of places which I
onght to visit in my further progress through Nor-
mandy, and took leave of me more abruptly than I
could have wished. He rarely visits Caen, though a
great portion of his library is kept there : his abode
being chiefly in the country, at the residence of a noble-
mafi to whose son he was tutor. It is deligfatful to
see a man, of his venerable aspect and widely extended
reputation, enjoying, in the evening of life, (after brav-
ing such a tempest, in the noon-day of it, as that of
the Revolution) the calm, unimpaired possession of his
faculties, and the respect of the virtuous and the wise.
The study of Natural History obtains pretty gene-

SIO

caen:

hJly at Caen ; indeed tbey have an Academf in* which
this branch of learning is expressly taught— 4Uid <rf
which Monsieur Lamouroux* is at once the chirf
bmament and instructor. This gentleman (to whom
oiir friend Mr. Dawson Turner furnished me with a
letter of introduction) has the most unaffected man-
ners, and a countenance particularly open and winmog^
He is a very dragon*' in his pursuit. On my second
call, I found him busied iu unpacking some baskets of
sea-weed, yet reeking with the briny moisture ; and
which he handled and separated and classed with the
same eagerness that we have seen our friend * ♦ ♦ run
through an auction lot of books with 13 more !'* Hie
library of Mr. Lamouroux is quite a workman^like
library: filled with sensible, solid, and instructive
books. His mansion, in the Rue Jaune, is of mndi
narrower dimensions than his mind. Though he be
a member of the Institute, he spoke of Sir Joseph
Banks, and of our literary Societies, in a manner whidi
did him infinite honour — and if he had only accepted
a repeated and strongly-pressed invitation to dine with
me at Lagouelle's, to meet his learned brother Pierre-
Aim6 Lair, nothing would have been wanting to the
completion of his character. There's elevation ojf sen-^
timent for yon ! What alert creatures these Savants
ai-e. Ihey rise 1>efore six, and labour incessantly in
their respective vocations (chiefly in the instruction of
youth,) till dinner-time, at twelve or one ; and then
at it again" till six in the afternoon.

* Monsieur Lamouroux.'] — He lias recently (1816) published anoc-
t&TO Tolume entitled Histoire des Polypiert, CoraiUghiei Flexibki,
wigttiremeni n^mmh Zoophptei. Par J, F. F, Lomownm.

CAEN.

311

You have frequently read the name of Pierre-Aim£
IjAir. Prepare to receive a sketch of the character to
which that name appertains. But what a pallet of
folours should I possess for such a task !— or^ rather^
what dexterity of handling were required if such a pal*
let could be furnished ? With what hues, tints, tones,
and masses/' should the picture glow ! A truce to com-
mon-place exclamation — and receive, in good sooth,
a very homely and very sober, but very faithful, descrip-
tion. This gentleman is not only the life and soul of
the society — ^but of the very town — ^in which he moves.
Mr. L. and myself walked udth him, more than once,
through very many streets, passages, and courts, which
were distinguished for any relic of architectural anti-
quity. He was recognised and saluted by nearly one
person out of three — at all distinguished for respecta-
bility of appearance — in our progress. " Je vous salue'*
vous voiU avec Messieurs les Anglois" — ban
jour," — " comment 5a va-t-il — The activity of
Pierre-Aim^ Lair is only equalled by his goodness
of heart and friendliness of disposition. He is all kind-
ness. Call when you will, and ask for what you please,
the object solicited is sure to be granted. He
never seems to rise (and he is a very early riser) with
spleen, ill-humour, or untoward propensities. With
him, the sun seems always to shine, and the lark to
tune her carol. And this cheerfulness of feeling is
carried by him into every abode however gloomy, and
every society however dull. In short, he is always
the gay and the good-natured Pierre-Aim6 Lair.

But more substantial praise belongs to this amiable

man. Not only is Pierre-Aim6 psir a lover and col-
1

S12 CAEN.

kctor .of tangible antiquities — such as glaaed tikSs
broken busts, old pictures^ — and fractured ci^iitala-^
tdl seen in long array'* up the windings of his stair-
case— but he is a critic, and a patron of the Uterdrjf
antiquities of his country* Caen (as I told you in my
last despatch) is the birth-plaoe of Malhbkbb ; and^iA
the character now under discussion, it has found a pm
petuator of the name and merits of the fitther <tf FVendi
verse. In the year 1806 our worthy antiquary putfi>rtk
a prefect for a general subscription for a medal in
honour of Malherbe''* — ^which project was in due timie

* suhicripikm for « medal t» hommr of Malbbbbs.}— The mnklHr
project here alluded to is one which does, both theprqiector^andthe arts
of FraDce, infinite honour j and I sincerely wish that some second Simob
may rise up among ourselves to emulate^ and if possible to surpass,
the performances of Gattbiux and Auobieu. The former is the artist
to whom we are indebted for the medal of Malherfoe, and the latter
for the series of the Buonaparte-noedak M. Lair told me that his
sabscribers amounted to 1500 in number ; nor do I think this, hq^
evidence of the printed brochure before me, an exagi^rated statem^
The price of the head in bronze is 5 firancs ; and with the addition of a
ring, one quarter of a franc more.

CAEN.

vewarded by the names of fifteen hundred efficient sub-
•criberSy at five francs a piece. The proposal was
doubtless flattering to the literary pride of the French ;
wd luckily the execution of it surpassed the expectSr
tions of the subscribers. The head is undoubtedly of
the most perfect execution ; and almost puts me in a
fisver, on contemplating it, when I think upon the com-
paratively decrepid state of the medaUic art in our own
fWantry. Wherefore is it so ? Not only, however, did
diis head of Malherbe succeed — ^but a feeling was ex*
pressed that it might be followed up by a series of
beads of the most illustrious, of both sexes, in literature
and the fine arts. The very hint was enough for Lair :
though I am not sure whether he be not the father of
the latter design also. Accordingly, there has appear-
ed periodically a set of heads of this description, va
bronze or other metal, as the purchaser pleases, which
)ia6 reflected infinite credit not only upon the name of
jkhe projector of this scheme, but upon the present state
<tf the fine arts in France.

. On the reverse is a Ijre^ surmounted by a laurel crown, with this
emphatic inscription ;

BNFIN IULBBRBE ttUt.

which is taken from the weU-lmown passage in Bdileau*s Art Poetique
beginning thus : ^ '

Enfin Malherbe f^ty et le premier en niuiee.
Fit sentir dans les fen nne jnste cadeooe ;
D'unmotmisensapliwpenseignelepoiifolr^ . i

£t reduiflit la muse aiizrii|^ da devoir*

The profile of Madame de S^vigii^, eiiecated by the same able me-
daUist (Gatteaux)^ has in every respect equal merit.

314

CAEN.

Yet another woi^ about Heire-Aim^ Lair. Heisfliofc
80 inexorable as M. Lamouroux: for he has dined With
me, and quaffed the chatnbertin and champagne of La-
gouelle, commander in chief of this house. Better wines
cannot be quaflfed ; and Malherbe and the Duke bf Wd-
lii^on formed the alternate subjects of discourse and
praise. In return, Mr: L. and myself dined with our
guest. He had prepared an abtindant dinn6r^ and a
V«ry select sociky : but although there was no wand^
as in the case of Sancho Panza, to charm away the
dishes, &c. oi* to interdict the tasting of th^, yet it
was scarcely possible to partake of one in' four; .so
umnercifolly were they steeped and buried in butter.
Among various vegetables was a dish of pommes d^
terre, k la mode Angloise.** — professed so to be — but
utterly untouchable. They were almost iBoating in
tlie liquified produce Of the dairy. However thete
was an excellent course of pastry ; and, better thmi
all the wines, was the society whicih encircled the
table. The principal topic of discourse was the tne^
rits of the poets of the respective countries of France
and England, from which I have reason to think
that Pope, Thomson, and Young, are among the great-
est &vourites with the French. The white brandy of
Pierre- Aim6 Lair, introduced after dinner, is hardly to
be described for its strength and pungency. Vous
n^avez rien comme 5a chez vous ?" Ma foi je le crois
bien ; c*est la lique&ction m£me du feu.'* We broke
up before eight ; each retiring to his respective avoca-
tions— but we did hot dine till five. I borrowed, how-
ever, " an hour or twain** of the evening, after the de-
parture of the company, to enjoy the mdre "patticular

CAEN.

315

conversation of our host; and the more I saw and
conversed with him, the greater was my gratification.
At parting, he loaded me with a pile of pamphlets, of
all sizes, of his own publication; and I ventured to
predict to him that he would terminate his multifa-
rious labours by settling into consolidated Biblioma-
NiACiSM. " On peut faire pire!" — was his reply— on
shaking hands with me^ and telling me he should cer-
tainly meet me again at BayeuXj in my progress
through Normandy. My acquaintance and walks
with this amiable man seemed to be my security from
insults iu the streets. But I must absolutely now have
done with him : delightful as it is to think upon, and
to record, acts of friendliness and liberality in a fo-
reign land.

Educa.tion, here commences early, and with incite-
ments as alluring as at Rouen. Poisson in the Rue
Proide is the principal — and indeed a very excellent —
printer ; but Bonnbsbrre, in the same street, has put
forth a vastly pretty manual of infantine devotion, in
a brochure of eight pages, of which I send you the
first, and which you may compare with tiie specimen
transmitted in a former letter.* . '

* See page 137, ante.

816

■ CAEN'.

Aabc de
fghikl
m n op q
r f s t u vx y z &

j ^ ae oe ii^.

VOraison dominicale.

Ater nos-

ter, qui es in

Chalopin, in the Rue-Froide-Rue, has recently pub-
lished a most curious little manual, in the cursive se-
cretary gothic, entitled " La Civility hannite pour les
EnfanSj qui commence par la maniere dcepprendre et
bien lire, prononcer et Retire** I call it curious/' be-

caom tbe V^ry first initial letter of the tesKt, rq[>re8etit-
idg introduces us to the bizarrerie of the early part
of the xvith century in treatises of a similar character.
Take this first letter^ with a specimen also of those to
which it appertains.

^fuj qui

This work is full of the old fashioned (and not a bit
the worse on that account) precepts of the same pe-
riod ; such as we see in the various versions of the
" De Moribus Juvenum," of which the " Contenance
de la Table,' in the French language^ is probably the
most popular. It is executed throughout in the same
small and smudged gothic character ; and, as I con-
ceive, can have few purchasers. The printers of Caen
must not be dismissed without respectfiil mention of
the typographical talents of Lb Roy ; who ranks after
Poisson. Let both these be considered as the Buhner
and Bensley of the place.

But among these venders of infantine literature, or
of cheap popular pieces, there is no man who drives
such a trade** as Picard-Guerin, Imprimeur en taiUe-

4wce et Fabricant ^ Images^'' who lives in thelitie 4ef

■TeinturierSf n''. 175. I paid him more than one^yisit;
My from his ^^fabrication/' issue, the thousands and
Mm of thousands of broadsides^ chap-books, ^. .&o.
which inundate Lower Normandy. You give from- one
to three sous, according as the subject be simple or
compound, upon wood or upon copper: — Saints, mar-
tyrs, and scriptural subjects ; or heroes, chieftmns, md
monarchs, including the Duke of yVeH&Bigton and Louis
XVIIL le D^8ir6— -are among the tiuUe-douces speci-
fied in the imprints. Madame did, ii|ie.t)ie honour of
shewing me some of her choicest; treasures, as her hus-
band was from home. Up stairs was a |iarcel of mirthful
boys and girls, with painting brushes in their hands, and
saucers of various colours before them. Upon enquiry,
I found that they received four sous per dozen, for co-
louring ; but I will not take upon me to say that they
were over or under paid — of so equivocal a character
were their performances. Only I hoped to be excused if
I preferred the plain to the coloured. In a foreign coun-
try, our notice is attracted towards things perhaps the
most mean and minute. With this feeling, I examined
carefully what was put before me, and made a selection
sufficient to shew that it was the produce of French soil.
Among the serious subjects, were two to which I paid
particular attention. The one was a metrical cantique
of the Prodigal Sotiy with six wood cuts above the text,
exhibiting the leading points of the Gospel-narrative.
I will cut out and send you the second of these six : in
which you will clearly perceive the military turn which
seems to prevail throughout France in things the most
minute. The Prodigal is about to mount his horse and

CAEN.

319.

leave his fiitber^s house, in the cloke and oock'd hat of
a Fraich officer.

The fourth of these cuts is droll enough. It is entitled,
" VEnfant Prodigue est chassS par ses maitresses.^
The expulsion consists in the women driving him out
of doors with besoms and hfur-brooms. It is very pro-
bable, however, that all this character of absurdity
attaches to some of our own representations of the
same subject; if, instead of examining (as in Pope^s
time)

«... the walls of Bedlam and Soho.

we take a survey of the graphic broadsides which
dangle from strings upon the wall at Hyde Park
Comw.

Another subject of a serious character, which I am
about to describe to you, can rarely, in all probability.

8S»

CAEN.

be tte production of a London artist. It is called
Notre-Dame de la bonne D4Uvrande^* and is neces-
sarily confined to the religion of the country. You
have here, first of all, a . reduced form of the original:
probably about one-third — and it is the more appro-
priate^ as it will serve to giv^ you a very correct notion
of the dressing out of the figures of the Virgin and
Child which are meant to grace the altars of the
chapels of the Virgin in most of the churches in Nor-
mandy.

CAEN^

891

' To' describe all the trampery which is immediately
around it, in the original, would be a waste of time ;
tvut below are two good figures to the right, and two
Wretched ones to the left. Beneath the whole, is the
following accredited consoling piece of intelligence :

Ii*AN SSOj des Barbares descendent dans le$ Gaulei, manacrent In
HdHes, profanent et brUlent le$ EgUses. Raoult Due de Narmandiey $e
Jomt d eux: r image de la Ste.'Vierge demeure enseveUe sous les ruineM dt
llandenne dhapelle jusqu^au rigne de Henri J. Van 1331. Beaudaum,
Baron de Douvres, averti par son berger qu*un mouton de son troupeau
fowllait toujours dans le mime endroit, fit ouvrir la terre, et trouva ce
trisor cachi depuis tant d^ann^es. II fit porter processionnellement ceite
iomte image dans VEgUse de Douvres : mais Dieu permit qu^eUe Jut
transport4e par un Ange dans V endroit de la chapelle oU elle est mainte-
nant rivirie, C'est dans cette chapelle que, par rintercession de Marie,
les prehears refoivent leur conversion, les affligis leur consolation, les m-
firmes la sant4, les captifs leur dilivrance, que ceux qui sont en mer
ichappent aux tempites et au naufrage, et que des miracles s'optrent
joumellement sur les pieux Fiddles.

A word next for Bubliopolists — including £ou-
quinistesy or venders of old and second-hand books.*^
The very morning following my arrival in Caen, I
walked to the abbey of St. Stephen, before breakfast,
and in the way thither stopped at a book stall, to the
right, within one hundred yards of the " Place** before
'the said abbey — and purchased some black letter
folios: among which the French version of Ccesar's
Commentaries, printed by Verard, in 1488, was the
most desirable acquisition. It is reserved for Lord
8pencer*s library ;♦ at a price which, freight and duty

* for Lord Spencer's Library.'] — and is described in the 3d voL of
the ^DES Althorpiana ; forming the Supplement to the Biblio-
THSCA SpsMCSRiANA : toe page 94.

CAEN;

indnded^ canaot reach the Bum of' twelve AilfingB of
oar money. I carried it home, triumphantly beneath*
my arm, wishing^ however, it had been in a •little
more desirable condition. Of venders of second
hand and old books, the elder and younger Ma-
NOURY take a decisive lead. The former: lives in the
Rue Frmde ; the latter in the Rue Notre Dame. . The
ftither boasts of having upwards of thirty thomaiMl
Wnmes, and is tolerably knowing in the arte and
crafte** of vendition. But I much doubt whether his
stock amount to one half of the number just mention**
ed. He asked me two lauis dor for a copy of the
Fiaudevires of Olivibr Ba6sblin> which is a modmi,
but privately printed, volume ; and of which I hope to
g^ve you some amusing particulars anon. He also told
me that he had formerly sold a paper copy of Fktgfs
Bible of 1462, with many of the illuminated initials
cut out, to the library of the Arsenal, at Paris, for 100
louis d'or. I only know that, if I had been librarian,
he should not have had one half the money. It i& car
ther singular that, both here and at Rouen, I have not
found a single copy of the Anglica Normanica of
Du Chesne: nor indeed does Manoury the elder pes*
sess any stock of vendible volumes in the way of lite-
rature or antiquities, either in the French or in the
Latin language.

Now for Manoury the younger. Old and young are
comparative terms : for be it known that tibe son is

ag6 de soixante ans." Over his door you read an
ancient inscription, thus :

" Battu, percd, US, Je veux changer demain.**

CAEN.

HhiB implies either <l]ke Aladdin's old lamtM for tte^>
that he wishes to give new bocks in exchange tot old
ones^ or that he can smarten np old onies by binding 6r
otherwise, and give tbefn a - renovated bj^pearancM/
But the solution is immaterial:. the Inscription belngf
as above. The interior of the younger Manotiry*H
book repository almost iq>palled me. His front sho{f>
and a eorridore communicating with the back part'Of
the house, are rank with moisture ; and his -books are
dmsequently rotting apace. Upon ray making ail
pitiable a statement as I was able of this BtielanctH^
state of things — and pleading with all my energies
agAinst the inevitable destruction which threatened the
Han Mu^ — the obdurate bibliopolist displayed not one
sdn^llation of sympathy. He was absohitdy indif-
ferent to the whole concern. In the back parlour, al-
most impervious to day-light, his daughter, and a stout
and handsome bourgeoise, with rather an unusually
elevated cauchoise, were regaling themselves with
sonp and herbs at dinner. I hurried through, in my
way to the upper regions, with apologies for the intru->
sion ; but was told that none were necessary — ^that I
might go where, and stay as long, as I pleased; and
that an explanation would be given to any iiiterroga-
tory in the way of business. I expressed my obliga-
tions for such civility ; and gaining an upper room, by
the help of a chair, made a survey of its contents^
What piles of interminable rubbish! I selected, as
the only rational or desirable volume— «half rotted
with moisture — Belongs Marine Fishes, 1551, 4to ; and
pbcing six' francs (the price demanded) upon the
table^ hurried back, <iux>ugfa this sable and dismal ter*

994 CLKEN:^

^toryy iHth a "flort' of piiedpitancjf amatanting' id
horronr. What struck me, as productive of a rerf
extraordinary effect — (like the light pouring through
an artificial aperture in one of Rembrandt*s
tures — thereby giving a radiant magic to the wbxM)
was the cheerfulness and gaiety de ccsur of these fe-^
males, in the midst of this region of darkn^ and de^
Solation. Manoury told me that the Revolution had
deprived him of the opportunity of having the finest
bookselling stock in France ! His own carelessness
and utter apathy are likely to prove yet more 'de8tru6«r
tive enemies.

But let us touch a more spirit-stirring*' chord in the
book theme. Let us leave the Bouquiniste for the
PUBLIC library: and I invite you most earnestly to
accompany me thither^ and to hear matters of especial
import. This library occupies the upper part of a fine
large stone building, devoted to the public office! of
government. The plan of the library is exceedingly
striking; in the shape of a cross. It measures one
hundred and thirty- four, by eighty, French feet ; and
ifi supposed, apparently with justice, to contain 20fi00
volumes. It is propoitionably wide and lofty. M. Hu-
bert is the present chief librarian, having succeeded
the late M. Moysant, his uncle. Of this latter presently.
Among the more eminent benefactors and Biblioma-
piacs, attached to this library, the name of FRAN9eis
Mar'tin is singularly conspicuous. He was, from all
accounts, and especially from the information at Mw
Hubert, one of the most raving of book-madmen : but
lie displayed, withal, a spirit of kindness and liberality
towards his: fiavourite esjtablishment at Caeii> which

CAEN.

325

could not be easily shaken or subdued. He was also a
man of letters^ and evinced that most commendable of
all literary propensities — a love of the Litbraturb of
HIS Country. He amassed a very large collection of
books^ which was cruelly pillaged during the Revolu-
tion; but the public library became possessed of a
great number of them. In those volumes^ formerly
belonging to him^ which are now seen^ is the following
printed inscription : " Franciscus Martin y Doctor Theo-
logus Parisiensisy comparavit. Oretur pro eo." He
was head of the convent of Cordeliers, and Prefect of
the Province: but his mode of collecting was not ex-
actly that which a public magistrate could call legiti-
mate. He sought books everywhere; and when he
could not buy them^ or obtain them by fair means^ he
would steal them, and carry them home in the sleeves
of his ^ownl He flourished about a century ago;
and, with very few exceptions, all the best conditioned
books in the libmry belonged to this magisterial book-
robber. Among them I noted down with singular sa-
tisfaction the Aldine edition of Stephanm de Urbibus,
1502, folio — ^in its old vellum binding : — seemly to the
eye, and comfortable to the touch. Nor did his copy
of the Repertorium Statutorum Ordinis Cartusiensis,
printed by Amerbachy at Basil, in a glorious gothic
character, 1510, folio, escape my especial notice — more
than the same Bibliomaniac^s beautiful copy of the
Mentz Herbal, of 1484, in 4to.

But the obliquities of Martin assume a less formi-
dable aspect, when we contemplate a noble work,
which he not only projected, but left behind ready for
publication. It is thus entitled : Athence Normanno^

VOL. I. u

CAEN-

rum veteres ac recentes, seu syllabus Auctorum qui
oriundi e Normannia^'^ Sgc. It consists of one volumey
in MS., having the authority of government to publidi
it, prefixed. There is a short Liatin preface, by Mardn^
followed by two pages of Latin verses beginning thus :
In Auctorum Normanicorum Syllahum.
Prolusio metrica.

En Syllabus prodit paldm

Contextus arte sedula

Ex Litteratce Neustrias

Auctoribus celebribus.

Why this work has not been taken up and published
by the Academy of Caen, seems rather strange — ^if they
possess the pecuniary means of bringing it to light.
But the " Satumia regna," should they ever " return"
to France, may give animation to this inactivity, and
pour a little gold into the emptied coffers of the trea-
sury. Among the men, the memories of whom throw
a lustre upon Caen,* was the fomous Samuel Bochart ;
at once a botanist, a scholar, and a critic of distin-
guished celebrity. He was a native of this place, and
his books (many of them replete with valuable ms.
notes) are among the chief treasures of the public li-
brary. In(^d there is a distinct catcdogue of them,
and the funds left by their illustrious owner form the

* the memories of whom throw a lustre upon Caen,'] — Goube, in his
Histoire du Duch4 de Normandie, 1816, Svo. has devoted upwards of
thirty pages to an enumeration of these worthies toI. iii. p. S95. But
in Huefs Origines de la ViUe de Caen; p. 491-65S, there wffl be fontfd
miHch Diore eopious and satisfactory details.

CAEN.

927

principal support of the library establishment. Bo-
ebart*s portrait^ with those of many other benefactors
to the library*^ adorns the walls; suspended above the

* wUh those of many other benefactors to the library, ^^M.. Hubert
was so obliging as to favour me with a list of these portraits; which
may probably be gratifying to the curious :

BsBTAND^ Jean^ £v6que de S^ez, n^^ Caen^ en 1552.
BocHABT, Samuel, Ministre Protestant, ^ Caen, n^ Rouen.
Bloust, de Camilly, Vice-Amiral, n^ ^ Rouen.
Blouxt de CamiUy, Arch^v^ue de Bouiges.
BvousT, Premi^ Biblioth^caire de 1* University en 1736.
Catbaones, Jacques, Professeur en M^decine, n6k Caen, en
Catslisb, Antoine, imprlmeur ^ Caen.
Db Collbvillb, fils de Bocharc.

CovTUBB, J. Baptiste, Recteur de rUniversit^, Pkiris, n^ )t Langrune>

pite Caen. Peint en habit de Recteur.
Cbbtbl, Professeur en Droits n^ k Ifs, pr^ Caen> en 1692. Peint en

habit de Recteur de TUniv. de Caen.
EuDBB, Jean, Fondateur de la Congregation des Eudistes, n^ en 1601.
Flbuby, (Le Cardinal de,) Abb^ de St. Etienne de Caen.
GoNFBBT, Professeur en Droit, Caen.
Hallet^ Antoine, Professeur d*£loquence It Caen.
Hvwr, FitmDskmel, n6 k Caen, en 1630.
Db laLondb, Ingdnieur, n^ k Caen^ en 1689.
Db LutneSj Ev^que de Bayeux.
BIacb', Astronome, n^ k Caen, en 1586*
Malhbmbb, Fran9ois, PoSte^ n^ k Caen, en 1555.
Lb IfAttTBE DB Saviony^ Jacqucs, Recteur de ITJniversitd.
MoTBAMT, Francois, Professeur et Biblioth^caire de la Ville.
IiB Nbvf db Montbnat> Abbe de Ste. Gen^vi^ve^ It Fms.
Pobb'b^ J^suite.

PoBTBL, Guillaume, Professeur en M^dedne.
Ptbbbon, Guillaume, Professeur en Droit.
Sbobais, de FAcad^mie Fran^aise^ It Caen.
Lb Sbns db Mons, de TAcad^me de Caen.

328

CAEN.

books : affording a very agreeable coup d'oefl. Indeed
the principal division of the library^ the farther end of
which commands a pleasant prospect^ is worthy of an
establishment belonging to the capital of an empire.
The kindness of M. Hubert, and of his assistant^ render-
ed my frequent sojoumings therein yet more delectable.
But I have promised (before we come to notice a few
of the books seriatim) to ^ve you some account of
MoYSANT, the late principal librarian^ and uncle of the
present. His portrait is among the pictured orna-
ments of the chief room. The nephew has jfigtvoured
me with a copy or two of the Notice Histarique**
upon the uncle — composed by himself, and read at a
public sitting of the Academy of Science, Art, and
Belles-Lettres at Caen, on the 29th of July, 1814^
From this you are to learn that Francis Moysant was
born in 1735, at the village of Audrieu, near Caen.
Though he was of a large stature, his hmgs were feeble,
and his constitution delicate. At the age of nineteen,
he was appointed professor of grammar and rhetoric in
the college of Lisieux. He then went to FariB, and
studied under Beau and Batteux; when, applying
himself more particularly to the profession of physic,
he I'eturned to Caen, in his thirtieth year, and put on
the cap of Doctor of medicine ; but he wanted dthar
nerves or stamina for the successful exercise of his pro-
fession. He had cured a patient, after painful and la-
borious attention, of a very serious illness ; but his^pa-

Tannboui le Fevre, k Caen^ en 1647i p^re de Mde. Dacier.
Varignov^ Pierre^ Math^atjcien^ ii6 It Caen^ en 1664.

CAEN.

929

tknt chose to take liberties too soon with his conva*
lescent state. He was imprudent : had a relapse; and
was hurried to his grave. Moysant took it seriously
to hearty and gare up his business in precipitancy and
disgust. In fact^ he was of too sanguine and irritable
a temperament for the display of that cool, cautious^
and patient conduct, which it behoveth all young phy-
mdans to adopt, ere tbey can possibly hope to attain
the honours or the wealth of the Baillies and Halfords
of the day ! Our Moysant returned to the study of his
beloved belles-lettres. At that moment, luckily, the
Society of the Jesuits was suppressed; and he was
called by the King, in 1763, to fill the chair of Rhe-
toric in one of the finest establishments of that body
At Caen. He afterwards successively became per*
petual Secretary of the Academy of Sciences, and Vice-
President of the Society of Agriculture. He was next
dubbed by the University, Dean of the faculty of arts^
^d was selected to pronounce the public oration upon
the marriage of the unfortunate Louis XVI. with Marie
Antoinette. He was now a marked and distinguished
public character. The situation of Public Librarian
was only wanting to render his reputation complete,
and that he instantly obtained upon the death of his
predecessor. With these occupations, he united that
of instructing the English (who were always in the
habit of visiting Caen,) in the French language ; and
he obtained, in return, from some of his adult pupils,
a pretty good notion of the laws and liberties of Old
England.

The Revolution now came on : when, like many of
his respectable brethren^ he hailed it at first as the hai"-

CAEN.

binger of national reformation and prosperity. But he
had soon reason to find that he had been decdved.
However, in the fervour of the moment, and upon the
suppression of the monastic and other public libraries,
he received a very wide and unqualified commission to
search all the libraries in the department of Calvados,
and to bring home to Caen all the treasures he might
discover. He set forth upon this mission with truly
public spirited ideas : resolving (says his nephew) to
do for Normandy what Dugdale and Dodsworth had
done for England — and a Monasticum Neustriacum
was the commendable object of his ambition. He pro*
mised much, and perhaps did more than he promised.
His curious collection (exclusively of the cait-loads of
books which were sent to Caen) was shewn to his
countrymen ; but the guillotine was now the order of
the day — ^when Moysant * resolved to visit England,
and submit to the English nobility the plan of his work>
as that nation always attached importance to the pre^
servation of the monumcDts, or literary materials, of
the middle ages." — He knew (continues the nephew)
how proud the English were of their descent from the
Norman nobles, and it was only to put them in pos-
session of the means of preserving the unquestionable
proofs of their origin. Moysant accordingly came
over with his wife, and they were both quickly declared
emigrants; their return was interdicted; and our
bibliomaniac learnt, with heart-rending regret, that
they had resolved upon the sale of the national pro-
perty in France. He was therefore to live by his wits;
having spiritedly declined all offer of assistance from
the English g;ovemment. In this dilenmia he pub-

CAEN.

331

Ifahed a work entitled Bibliothique des Ecrivaim
Francais, ou choix des meilleurs morceaux en prose et
en versy extraits de leurs ouvrages^ — a collection^
which was formed with judgment, and which was
attended with complete success. The first edition was
in four octavo volumes, in 1800 ; the second^ in six
volumes 1803 ; a third edition, I think, followed, with
a pocket dictionary of the £nglish and French lan-
guages. It was during his stay amongst us that he
was deservedly admitted a member of the Society of
Antiquaries ; but he had returned to France in 1802^
before the appearance of the second edition of his
Bihlioth^que ; and hawk-like, soaring or sailing in
suspense between the book-atmospheres of Paris and
Caen, he settled within the latter place — and again
perched himself (at the united call of his townsmen)
upon the chair destined for the Public Librarian !
Up to this moment, or rather till just before the return
of Moysant, the public libraiy could not boast of a fine
locale.* A portion of the present building, called les
Batimens de la Mairicy was accordingly devoted to its
reception ; the books having been formally declai-ed
" the property of the town" — and not, as before, of the
University. It was to give order, method, and freedom
of access, to the enormous mass of books, which the
dissolution of the monastic libraries had caused to be
accumulated at Caen, that Moysant and his colleagues
now devoted themselves with an assiduity as heroic as

• In DucaFcVs time^ it was a handsome regular building, tolerably
well furnished with books, and was kept open for the public two days
in every week. — JnglO'Narman Jntiquities, p. 70.

338^ CAES.

it was unintennittiDg. But the health of onr. generalis-
simo, which had been impaired during his residence im
England, began to give way beneath such a pressure
of fetigue and anxiety. Yet it pleased Providence to
prolong his life till towards the close of the year 1813 1
When he had the satisfaction of viewing his folios;
quartos, octavos, and duodecimos, arranged in regular
succession, and fydr array — ^when his work was honestly
done — and when future visitors had only to stietdi
forth their hands and gather the fruit which he had
placed within their reach. His death (we are fold)
was gentle, and like unto sleep. Religion had con*
soled him in his latter moments; and after having
reposed upon its efficacy, he waited with perfect
composure for the breathing of his last sigh. Let the
words of his nephew tell the rest ;* and meanwhile,

* " M. Mojsant avait uoe cooyersation douce> instructiYe, et eo
xn^me temps amusante par le grand nombre d' anecdotes qa*il racon-
tait d*un ton qui lui ^tait propre, et qui y ajoutait encore und^r^d*in-
t^r^t ; sa correspondance ^tait ti^s-^tendue, ct son extreme complain
sance lui faisait fairevolon tiers les recherches qui lui ^taient demaod^es^
Toujours pret k &ire part des connoissances qu'il avait acquises
par ses travaux, il pensa toiyours que les services qu*il rendait avec
plaisir ^taient une des obligations de la place qu*il occupait, et si M.
Barbier^ auteurdudictionnaire des ouvrages anonymes, etM.Henniker^
auteur d un ouvrage en Anglais sur les briques armorito de TAbbaye
St. Etienne de Caen, n*eussent consign^ son nom dans leurs anvnges,
On ignorerait les obligations qu*i1s lui out, et qu*ils se sont pta k iaiie
oonnattre ; il a revu et corrig^ deux ^tions du Dictionnaire des Giands
Hommes qui lui doit plus d*un volume d*augmentation.

" Les di£P(^rens emplois queM. Moysantarempliset seautres travaux
lui ont assign^ un rang honorable parmi les hommes instniits : sa m^-
moire vivra encore long-temps dans une portion de la sod^t^ ^tran-
g^re k sa reputation litt^raire, et c'est k une des plus beOes quality

CAEN.

S33

let the name of Moysant be mentioned with thebiblir
omaniacal honours which are doubtless its due ! . .

From Librarians reveit we to books : to the books
in the public library of Caen. The oldest printed;
volume contained in it, and which had been bound with
a MS, on the supposition of its being a manuscript
also, is Numeister's impression of Aretin de Bella
adversus Gothos, 1470, folio ; the first book from the
press of the printer. I undeceived M. H6bert, who
had supposed it to be a MS. The lettering is covered
with horn, and the book is bound in boards ; all pro*
per." The oldest Latin Bible they possess, is of the
date of 1485 ; but there is preserved one volume of
Sweynheym and Pannartz's impression of De Lyrds
Commentary upon the Bible, of the date of 1471-2,
which luckily contains the list of books printed by
those printers in their memorable supplicatory letter to

qui fessent honneur au cceur humain^ c'est au d^ir de se rendre ntile
wax malheureux qu*il doit le souvenir qu*ils conserveront des services
qu*Q leur a rendus : ses connoissances litt^raires Tavaient mis de bonne
heure en relation avec les personnes les plus distingu^cs de la ViUe et
de la Province, par leur rang ou leur fortune j plus tard ses ^^ves
remplissaient les premiers emplois dans les administrations et la ma-
gistrature 5 il se servit de I'acc^ qu*il avait aupi^ d*eux pour leur
porter les reclamations de ceux qui g^missaient dans Tinfortune^ ou
qui avaient des graces k demander > il ^tait si naturellement compa-
tissant^ qu'il s'occupa toute sa vie des malheureux^ et qu*il d^ploya
dans tons les instans la plus grande activity pour leur rendre service.

M. Moysant s*dtait mari^ et une union qui a dur6 quarante-trois
ans^ lui avait fait gouter tons les charmes du bonheur domestique ; H
fat cependant trouble par la mort de son fils unique : le temps seul
put affaiblir sa douleur, le temps seul consolera I'^pouse qui lui
•urvit/'

CAEN.

Pope l^tnB IV. Tbe earliest Latin Classic i^peara to
be tke Juvenal of 1474, with the Commentary of Cal*
derinus, printed at Rome ; unless a dateless impress
sion of Lucauy in the earliest type of Gering, with the
verses placed at a considerable distance from each
other, claim chronological precedence. There is also
a Valerius Mammas of 1475, by Csesaris and Stol,
bnt without their names. It is a large copy, soiled at
the beginning. Of the same date is Gering's impres-
sion of the Legenda Sanctorum ; and among the fUSfi
tttnttfi I almost coveted a very elegant specimen of
Jehan du Pr6's printing (with a device used by him
never before seen by me,) of an edition of La Fie des
PereSy in 1494, folio, original binding. It was not
however free from the worm. I collected, from the
written catalogue, that they had only forty-fivb
works printed in the fifternth century ; and of
these, none were of fii*st*rate quality. Indeed I know
not if the most interesting be not already recorded.

Among the MSS., I was much struck with the beau-
tiful penmanship of a work, in three folio volumes, of
the middle of the xvith century, entitled ; Divertisse-^
mens touchant le faict de la guerre^ extraits des livres
de Polj/be, Frantin, Fegece, Cornazzan, Machiavely et
autres bans autheurs'' It has no illuminations, but the
scription is beautiful. A Breviary of the Church Ser-
vice of LisieuXj of the xvth century, has some pretty
but common illuminations. It is not fi*ee from injury.
Of more intrinsic worth is a MS. entitled Du Castentin
(a district not far from Caen,) with the following prefix
in the hand-writing of Moysant. Ces m^moires sont
de M. Toustaint de Billy, cur6 du Mesnil au-parc^ qui

CAEN.

S35

avoit trayaill^ toute sa vie h Thistoire du Cotentin. lis
8ont rares et m'ont ^t^ accord^s par M. Jourdan^ No-
taire, auqnel ils appartenoient. Le p. (P^re) le Long
et Mons. Teriet de fontette ne les ont pas connu.
Moysantz/' It is a small folio^ in a neat band-writing.
Another MS., or rather a compound of ms. and printed
leaves, of yet considerably more importance, in 3 folio
volumes, is entitled Le Mover i desNormans^par Joseph
Andri^ Guial de Rouen : on the reverse of the title^
we read," Supplement au Dlctionnaire de Moreripour
ce qui conceme la province de Normandie, et sea
iUustresr A short preface follows ; then an ode " aux
Grands Hommes de Normandie.** It is executed in the
manner of a dictionary, running in alphabetical order.
Hie first volume extends to I, and is illustrated with
scraps from newspapers, and a few portraits. It is
written pretty fiilly in double columns. The portrait
and biography of Bouzard form an admirable specimen
of biographical literary memoirs. The second volume
goes to Z. The third volume is entitled "Le^ trois Slides
palinodiquesy ou Histoire Gindrale des Palinods de
Rouen^ Dieppe, 8^c. — by the same han(^ with an equal
quantity of matter. It is right that such labours should
be noticed, for the sake of all fiiture BLiss-like editors
of provincial literature. There is another similar worh,
in 2 folio ms. volumes, relating to Coutance.

Before we again touch upon printed books, but of a
later period, it may be right to inform you that the
treasures of this Library suffered materially from the
commotions of the Calvinists. Those hot-headed in«-
terpreters of scripture destroyed everything in the
shape of ornament or elegance attached to book-covers^

386

CAEN.

and pilies of volumes, however sacred, or tmexceptiona*
ble on the score of good morals, were consigned to tiie
fury of the flames. Of the remaining volumes which I
saw, take the following very rapid sketch. Of HourSj
or Church Services, there is a prodigiously fine copy of
an edition printed by VostrCy in 4to., upon paper, with-
out date. It is in the original ornamented cover, or
binding, with a forest of rough edges to the leaves —
and doubtless the finest copy of the kind I ever saw.
Compared with this, how inferior in every respect is
a cropt copy of. Kerver's impression of a similar work,
printed upon vellum ! This latter is indeed a very
indifierent book ; but the rough usage it has met with
is the sole cause of such inferiority. I was well pleased
with a fiur, sound copy of the Speculum Stultarumy in
4to., bl. letter, in hexameter and pentameter verse,
without date. Consult De Bure, vol. i. no. 3988. Nor
did I examine without interest a rare little volume
entitled ^^Les Origines de quelques Coutumes andennes,
et deplusieurs fa^ons de parler triviales. Avec un vieux
Manuscrit en vers, touchant FOrigine des Chevaliers
Bannerets ; printed at Caen in 1672, 12mo. : a curions
little work. They have a fine (royal) copy of fValtatCs
Polyglot J with an excellent impression of the head;
and a large paper copy of Stephens Greek Glossary ;
in old vellum binding, with a great number of ms.
notes by Bochart. Also a fine large paper Photius of
1654, folio. But among their large papbrs, few
volumes tower with greater magnificence than do the
three folios of La Sainte Bible, printed by the Elze-
virs at Amsterdam, in 1669. They are absolutely fine
creatures ; of the stateliest dimensions and most attracr

CAEN.

337

tive forms. They also pretend that thdr large paper
copy of the first edition of Huefs Prceparatio Evan^
geUca, in folio^ is unique. Probably it is, as the author
presented it to the Library himself. The Basil Eusta-
ikim of 1559, in 3 vc^umes folio, is as glorious a copy
tiB is Mr: Grenville's of the Roman edition of 1542. It
is in its pristine membranaceous attire — the Vellum
lapping over the fore-edges, in the manner €f Mr.
Heber's copy of the first Aldine Aristotle, — most com-
fortable to behold ! There is a fine large paper copy of
Montaigne's Essays ^ 1635, folio, containing two titles
imd a portrait of the author. It is bound in red mo-
rocco> and considered hj M. Hubert a most rare rad
desirable book. Indeed I was told that one CoUectw
m particular was exceedingly anxious to obtain it. I
WW a fine copy of 4^ folio edition of Ransard, printed
im 1584j which is considered rare. Th^ is also a copy
<if the w^ known Ldber NanceidoSy from Bochart's
library, with a few ms. notes of Bochart himsetf.
Here I saw, for the first time, a French metrical ver-
irion of the works of FirgUy hy Robert and Anthony
Cheualiers d^Agneamx peres^ de Vire^^en Normandie ;
pnblisfaed at Paris in 1585, in el^nt italic type ; con-
sidered rare. The same titmslators published a vmion
lei Horace ; but it is not here. You may remember
dtat I made mention of a certain work (in one of my
4ate letters) called Lbs Vaudevires d'Oltoier Basselm.
They preserve here a very choice copy of it, in 4to«>
lai^ paper ; and of winch size only three copies are
Mid to be ia existence. The entire title is Les Faude-
viresj Poesies du xvine. ndc/e, par OUvier Basselm^ avec
4m JHseoursjmr M Fie et des Notes pour texpUcalion

338

GAEN.

de quelques anciens Mots: Fire, 1811.** 8vo. There
are copies upon pink paper, of which this is one — and
which was in fact presented to the Library by the
Editors. Prefixed to it, is an indifferent drawing^, in
india ink, representing the old castle of Vire, now
nearly demolished, with Basselin seated at a table along
with three of his boosing companions, channting his
Terses k pleine gorge.** This Basselin appears in
short to have been the French Drunken Barnamt of
his day.

What ! (say you :) not one single specimen from
the library of your favourite Dianb db Poictibu!
Can this be possible ? — No more of interrogatoty, I
beseech you : but listen attentively and gratefully to
the. intelligence which you are about to receive— mmI
fiuicy not, if you have any i-espect for my taste, that
I have forgotten my favourite Diane de Ptoictiers. On
looking sharply about you, within this library, iheie
will be found a magnificent copy of the Cammentmries
of Chrysostom upon the Epistles of St. Pauly printed
by Stephanus et Fratres da Sabio, at Ferona, in 1529,
in three folio volumes. It is by much and by fiur the
finest Greek work which I ever saw from the Sabii
Press. No wonder Colbert jumped with avidity to
receive such a copy of it : for, bating that it is nn
pen rogn^,** the condition and colour are quite enchant-
ing. And then for the ligature, or binding thereof!—
idiich either Colbert, or his librarian Baluze, had the
good sense and good taste to leave untouched* The
first and second volumes are in reddish calf, with the
royal arms in the centre, and the half moon (in ti^mishecl
silver) beneath : the arabesque omamentSy or sorroimd^

CAEN.

iDg border are in gilt. The edges are gilt^ stamped ;
flush with the fore edge of the binding. In the centre
of the sides of the binding, is a large with a fleur de
lis at top: the top and bottom borders presenting
the usual D and H, united — ^for which you may take
a peep at a certain work ycleped the Bihliographicat
Decameron. The third volume is in dark blue leather,
with the same side ornaments; and the title of the
work, as with the preceding volumes, is lettered iit
Greek capitals. The H and crown, and monogram, as
before ; but the edges of the leaves are, in this volume,
stamped at bottom and top with an H, surmounted by
a crown. The sides of the binding are also fuller and
richer than in the preceding volumes. I well remember,
at this moment, that ttiis was the very work, of which,
when residing at Worcester, — commencing my career
in life as a provincial Counsel — I had the misfortune to
lose the third volume : and the loss so alBected me, that,
to recover it, I left the profession, and became biblio^
grapher and divine. But the long sought after, and
deeply r^retted object, has ever continued to elude my
reiearch. The magnificent copy which I have been
just describing was given to the Library by P. Le
Jeune. It is quite a treasure in its way.

Anodier specimen, if you please, from the library of
the said favourite Diana. It is rather of a singular
character: consisting of a French version of that
once extremely popular work (originally published in
the Latin language) called the Cosmography of Sehas^
turn Munster. The edition is of the date of 1555, in
fidio. This copy must have been as splendid as it is
ytt. curious. It contains two portraita of Henry tte

CAEN.

Second (^^ Henricvs U. Galliarvm Rbx invictiss/
PP.") and four of Holofernes (" Oloparnb*') on each
side of the binding. In the centre of the sides we
recognise the lunar ornaments of Diane de Ptoictiers ;
but on the back, are five portraits of her, in gilt, eadi
within the bands — and, like all the other ornaments^
much rubbed. Two of these five heads are facing a
different head of Henry. There are also on the ndeir
two pretty medallions of a winged figure blondng a'
trumpet, and standing upon a chariot drawn by four
horses : there are also small fleur de lis scattered be-
tween the ornaments of the sides of the binding. The
date of the forementioned medallion seems to be 1553.*
The copy is cruelly cropt, and the volume is sufficieiitly
badly printed ; which makes it the more surprising that
such pains should have been taken with its bibliop&^
gistic embellishments. On examining it, I coald not
help thinking how much inferior, in size and condition^
was the copy of it which I had seen at Frere's^ at
Rouen, and in the darik and dank corridore of the
younger Manoury at Caen. Yet, upon the whole, the
copy, for the sake of its ornaments, is vehemently
desirable.

And now, my dear friend, you must make your
bow with me to M. Hubert, and bid fistreweU to the
PUBLIC LIBRARY at Cacu. Indeed I am fully dis»
posed to bid farewell to every thing else in the same
town : not however without being conscious that very
much, both of what I have, and of what I have not;
seen, merits a detail well calculated to please the in*
tellectual appetites of travellers. What I have seen^
has been, indeed, but snmmaiily, and even soperfif

CAEN.

341

dftlly described ; but I have done kny best ; and was
ftarfol of exciting ennui, by a more parish register-like
description. Yet what becomes of those grand topicsj
^ religion and law of the country through which one
kbs tratdled i Not a word about altars and tribiK
mhl Very little indeed : and that little, I fear, most
and unsatisfiEu;tory . For the service performed ik
fladesof public worslup, I can add nothing to my Rouen
delai]»-*excq[>t that there is here a brilliant diversity
iii^ PaoTfiSTANT CHURCH iu the person of M. Marthi
]toi.UN— Risteur, President de Ffiglise Refohii6
eonsistoriale de Caen**— who has just published a ^ Mi^
fmm'eHistoriqmesurrEtatEccl^iMtique desPrbtestatui
Snmfois depuU Francis \er. jusqu'h Lmis XFIIIi*
JM a pamphlet of some fourscore pages. The task was
efuaUy delicate and difficult of execution ; but hav-^
ilig read it, I am firee to confess that M. RoUin bail
done his work very neatly and Very cleverly* I went
ia company with Mrs^ and Miss I*** to htor the
author ^-eaeh ; for he is a young man (about thirty)
who draws his congregation as much from hiis talents
aSf a preacher, as from his moral worth as an indivi*
dual. It was on the occasion of several young ladies
a«d gentlemen taking the sacrament for the first time*
The church is strictly, I believe^ according to the Qe.
neva persuasion ; but there was smnething so comj^
fertable, and to me so cheering, in the avowed doo*
tme of Protestantism, that I accompanied my friends
witb alacrity to the spot. Many English were pre*
sent ) for M. Rollin is deservedly a fovourite with our
coontrymeufc The church, however^ was scarcefy
hatf^Hsd* The interior is the most^ukwardly adapt-

VOL. I. X

342

CAEN.

ed imaginable to the purposes either of readii^ or
of preaching : for it consists of two aisles at right
Itngies with each other. The desk and pulpit are fixed
in the receding angle of their junction ; so that the ydic6
flies forth to the right and left immediately as U
escapes the preacher. After a very long, and a veiy
dicQsly-sang psahn, Mr. RoUin commenced his dis^
eomrse. He is an extemporaneous preacher, and is
said to strive (very foolishly, in my oi»nlon) to imi-
tate Talfna in some of his action. I observed (and
ckmld not help regretting as I observed) the mode m
winch, after extending his arms at their entire length
in a right line, he would cause his hands to e^ake
kod flutter, like the tremulous wing of a bird ere
it settles I But de gustibus** . . . His vmce is sweet
and clear, rather than sonorous and unpressive i aad
lie is perhaps, occasionally, too metaphorical m his
composition. For the first time I heard the words ^ Oh
Dieu r pronounced with great effect : but the wnatra
was made up, of better things than mere exclamadoM.
M. RolHn was frequently ingmiious, logicid, and
GOBvincing; and his address to the young coinnMih
nicants, towards the close of his discourse, waa imr
pressive and efficient in the extreme. The ymmg
people were deeply touched by his powerful apped^ aad
I believe each countenance was suffiised with teais.
He guarded them against the dangers and temptations
of that world upon which they were about to enter,
by setting before them the consolations of the rdigioa
which they had professed, in a manner whioh i&dicatiMl
that he had really their interests and hi^iaets at heart
The fiemales were dreMed in white^ with loag wliits

CAEN.

rab ; and not one of the congregation, on quitting tiie
churchy passed by them without fixing their eye upon
cDjects'of such iriterest atid sensibility. The sermon was
feUowed by a psalm, as drawling in its mode of per-
formance as that by which it haid been preceded. I
forget if it was permitted to any of the congregatidA' to
iMay behind, to communicate ; but I cannot leave the
threshold of the church without expressing how much
I was gratified by the promptitude and civility of the
ftrger, in accommodating us with good seats : " si ric
aeioiper apud nos'* — ^would be no bad hint to attend to
aeross the Channel.

So much for Sabbath worship. A word only abottt
Comfs of Justice. A smack of the whip** will tingle In
My ears through life ; and I shall always attend Nisi
'9rkur exhibitions with more than ordinary curiosity* I
strolled one morning to the Place de Justice — ^whicb is
Wrfl situated, in an airy and respectable neighbourhood,
isaw two or three barristers, en pleine costume, pretty
marly in the English fashion, walking quickly to aild
fro with their clients, in the open air, before the heik \
and could not help contrasting the quick eye and un-
concerned expression of countenance of the former^
with the simple look and yet earnest action of the
latter. One of these barristers might have been mis-
taken for an Englishman : but I will not say wherefore^
for fisar a Frenchman should be looking over your
shoulderwhen you read this. I entered the Hall, and to
ray astonishment, heard only a low muttering sound.
Scarcely fifteen people were present. I approached the
bench ; and what, think you, were the intellectual ob-
jects upon which my eye alighted ? Tliree Judges . .

344

CAENi

(dl &st toleep! Five barristers/ two of whom were
nodding: one was literally addressing the bench.
and the remaining two were talking to their clients in
the most nnooncemed manner imaginable. The entire
efkct, on my mind, was ridiculons in the extreme.
With difficulty I refrained from absolute laughter^
and^quitted the Hall of Justice within five minutes of
my entrance. Far be it from me, however, to desig-
nate the forcing as a generally ti-ue picture of tiie
administration of Justice at Caen. I am induced to
hope and believe that a place, so long celebrated for
the study of the law, yet continues occasionally to ex-
hibit proofs of that logic and eloquence for which it
has been renowned of old. I am willing to conclude
that all the judges are not alike somniferous ; and that
if the acfuteness of our Giffords, and the rhetoric ttf
onr Dsnmans, sometimes instruct and enliven the aur
dience, there will be found Judges to ai^ue like Gibbs
and to decide like Scott. Farewell. Ere the setting of
to-morrow's sun, I shall have gazed upon the famous
tapestry at Bayeux. Most cordially yours.

345

LETTER XV.

BAYKUX* CATHEDRAL. ORDINATION OF PRIESTS AND
DEACONS. CRYPT OF THE CATHEDRAL. A MY8TERI-
OUS INTERVIEW*

BtijfeuTj MtMy IG, 181*8.

• Tito of the most gratifying days of my- voyage**
have been spent at this place r and^althoi^h the TapM*
iry has not yet been absolntely -^^gazed vpon/^ the Ca«
Ihedral (the most ancient reli^ous place of worship u|
fionnandy) has been paced with a reverential step^
and surveyed with a careful eye; That which scarcdy
warmed the blood of Ducarel has made my heart beat
ivith an increased action ; and though this town be
even dreary, as- well as thinly peopled, there is that
about it, which^ from associations of ideas^ can nevw
llul to afford a lively interest to a British antiquary.

• Our old favourite method of travelling, in the ci^bri*
tilet of the diligence, brought us here from- Caen in
About two hours and a half^ The country, during the
whole routei is open> well cultivated^ occasionally
liently undulating, but generally denuded of trees. It
\s always so- in the vicinity of great towns. Many
pretty little churches, with delicate spires, peq>ed
upon us to the right and left during our journey; but
Ihe first view of the Cathedral of Baybux put all tbe
^hers out of our recoUectiott. Yet even this first

346

BAYEUX.

view produced a pish !'* from both of us : which arose
from the corrupt style of architecture of the central
tower— the upper part of which is of the time of Francis
I. This central tower is not only lower than the two
spire-crowned towers at the western extremity^ but is,
in other respects, a very indifferent piece of building.
The end spires are rather lofty than elegant : in tmtk
tiiey are, in respect to form and ornament, aboat as
sorry performances as can be seen. We were (Mm-
veyed to the H6tel de Luxemhourgy the best inn in the
town, and for a wonder rather pleasantly situated.

Mine hostess'' is a smart, lively, and direwd woQian
v^-perfectly mistress of the art and cr^ of innkjqep-
iulf, and seen^ to have never known sorrow or disap*
pOintment. Our bed-i-ooms are excellent, and a mXk
ooverlld and fringed bed-frimiture gives to my own
apartment the aspect of neatness and even of gaifBty^
Knowing that Mr. Stothard, Jim. had, the preceding
year, been oqcupied in making a fiEU^-simile of the fiir
mous tapestry'' for our own Society of Antiquaries, I en-
quired if mine hostess had been acquiunted with that
gentleman : Monsieur," replied she, je le connois
Med ; c'est un brave homme : il demeura tout pr^ : waaA
travailla-t-il comme quatre diables !" I will not ^iik
guise that this eulogy of our amiable cocintrymaii
pleased me right well" — though I was pretty snie
that such language was the current (and to me aome;-
what coarse) coin of compliment upon all OGcasioqsrr
Imd instead of vin ordinaire" I ordered, rather ip
a* gay and triumphant manner, une bouteille dy
¥111 de Beaune"— ''Ah 1 9a," (repUed th^ livdy^aiidbdy^

vous' le (yowvei^ exceUeiM>--Me08ieiuii^ il V^J^ V^

BAYEUX.

347

iHym comme le Tin de Beaune/' We beiqpoke our
liuiaer^ and strolled towards the cathedral.
. There is^ in fact^ no proper approach to this inter-^
esting edifice. The western end is suffocated with
houses. Here stands the post-office ; and with the
most unsu^>ecting frankness^ on the part of the owner^
I had permission to examine, with my own hands>
within doors, every letter — ^under the expectation that
ibere were some for myself. Nor was I disappointed.
But you must come with me to the cathedral : and of
course we must enter together at the western front.
There are five porticos : the central one being rather
laifpe, and the two, on either side, comparatively smalls
Formerly, these were covered with sculptured figures
aad ornaments ; but the Calvinists in the sixteenth, and
the Revolutionists in the eighteenth century, have coui-
trived to render their present aspect mutilated and rer
pulnve in the extreme. You should know, however,
before you enter, that the tower to the left is coeval
with the nave and choir — that is, of the middle of the
l^th century ; while the one to the right is of the xvth
ixntory. On entering, we were struck with the two
hkrge transverse Norman arches which bestride the
area, or square, for the bases of the two towers. It
is the boldest and finest piece of masonry in the whole
building. We were disappointed with the interior. It
18 plain, solid, and rather divested of ornament. A very
large wooden crucifix is placed over the screen of the
i^ir, which has an effect — of its kind : but the monu*
:ment8,and mural ornaments, scarcely deserye mention^
The rieUy ornamented arches, on each side of the naive,
sprini^ng from massive tingle pillars, have rathar an im-

348

BAYEUX

pomng eflfect : above them are Gotluc omamentB of a
later period^ but too thickly and injadicionsly appBed.
The choir is rather fine^ than otherwise ; but taken as a
whole, I cannot say much for the interior of thid ca*
thedral. Let us, however, suppose that the dinnor m
over, and the vin de Beaune*" approved of— and tkat
on our second visit, immediately afterwards, there is
both time and inclination for a leisurely survey. On
k)oking up, upon entering, within the side aisle to the
left, you observe, with infinite regret, a dark and filthy
green tint indicative of premature decay-— arising from
the lead of that part of the roof having been stript finr
the purpose of making bullets during the Revolntioi^-*
a fate usually attendant upon poor cathedrals during
popular insurrections I The extreme length of the in^
tenor is about 320 English feet, by 76 high, and the
^ latter number of feet in width. The transepts are
about 125 feet long, by 36 wide. The western towers^
to the very top of the spires, are about 250 Bnglish
feet in height. The cathedral, in its present format
f with the exception of such additions as are evidently
of a posterior date) pwes its erection to the munificent
spirit of Philip de Harcourt, bishop of the diocese in
the middle of the xiith century. The exact date of
the completion of the choir, supposed to be the earlier

* in its present form!] — Ducarel*a faithless and diminutiye Tiew of It
is only fit for a lady's pocket-book. Nor can I think, without pain, <tf
a copy of this defbctiye print having been introduced into the pages of
the Gentleman* s Magaxine for July 1819 $ espedallj as the SSd
and 64th voluines of that work contain some creditable repesciita*
iMN)s of the cathe^nJs, copied from better modeb jio Ducand^ work.

BAYEUX,

849

part, is of the year 1159. But it had been previously
twice or thrice rebuilt; by the Normans in 891^* and
afterwards, from two successive fires— one in 1046, and
the other in 1 106. As you pace the nave you cannot fidl
to be struck, on the left, with one of the most magnificent
and highly ornamented pulpits in Normandy. Jt has
however sufiered from the revolutionary barbarians.

One of the. most curious objects in the cathedral is
the CRYPT ; of which, singularly enough, all knowledge
had been long lost till the year 1412. The circumstance
of its discovery is told in the following inscription, cut
in the Gothic letter, upon a brass plate, and placed just
^abore the southern entrance:

€tt Ian mfl quatre cenii $ tiouje '

%t0 1nm0 tu la tent, la fttacntt
^ue la S^quejf fttt (debtee
l^oUe $omme $ lletoerettb ^ece
^< 1S^^f He la a?ere

• f The church was dedicated, after the second fire^ by Odo de Covts-
viLi4i, the Conqueror's brother: — and William, his wife^ and two
chfldren (Robert and William Rufus) were present at the ceremony.
Odo lavished upon the church still greater property than "Wlliam
had bestowed upon it— and especially the Barony of Plessis. <3e
Mlat combla sa nouveUe ^lise de pr^sens. Un des plus r^ooarqui^
Uee^toit la Couronne de cuivre dor 4, couverte de lames d*argent, & at-
tach^e k une chaine de fer dans la nef vis-k-vis du crucifix. Cette
couronne de 16 pieds de hauteur, et om^ d*autres couronnes en forme
de tours, occupoit la largeur de la nef : elle servoit k porter quantity de
defges qu*on allumoit dans les grandes ffetes : il y avoit ausd 47 ▼«»
iAtins gnm^ tout autour, k la louange de FegliBe.*' JEfiit. Sammmre
d$ JtLyUle de Bajfeuxf 1773, Svo. p. 39. This extraordinary omament
jf^ dest^ed durui^ the Keli^ous peraec^ . ,

IfiFiftt Venitit a jfon Cvf atntr
€t lotjf nt Mffattt la ^late
ttMtiaiit la gtanii Glutei bt ^tatt
Cnfea I'M la (ajf^e €|apcll(
fiHmt il n'atoott ete nrniMKe

8)lni nfttfflc atioic if 0)1 atnt at ttite; SbtKit

Ducssuhel BeemB to have had an aversion^ or at lettt
barioflky^ towards crypts ; and accordingly both at
Caen and Bayeux he raised his head above tfate inte-
ence of subterran^us^ and supposed noxious^ vapoars:
bat a good, sniflf 6t these cold and darksome regions is
quite refreshing to a thorough-bred architectural anti-
quary ! It was my good fortune to idsit this crypt at a
very particular juncture. The day after my arrival
at Bayeux^ there was a grand ordination. Before I
had quitted my bed^ I heard the mellow and measured
notes of human voices; and starting up, I saw an id*
most interminable procession of priests, deacons, &c,
walking singly behind each other, in two lines, leaving
a'considerable space between them. They walked bara-
headed, chanting, with a book in their hands, and bent
their course towards the cathedral. I dressed quickly ;
and dispatching my breakfast with equal promptitude,
pursued the same route. On entering the western
doors, thrown wide open, I shall never forget the effect
produced by the crimson and blue draperies of the
Norman women--^ great number of whom were dia-
tmd, in groups, upon the top of the screen, about die

BAYEUX

351

bage wooden crucifix ;^witBesaiiig the office of ordi*
nation going on.below^ in the choir. They 4seemed to
be suspended in the air ; and considering the piece of
acn^ture around which they appeared, to gather them-
selres — ^with the elevation of the screen itself — ^it was a
eombination ot objects upon, which the pencil jof Nash
(the most poetical of (mv architecture draftsmen)
might have been exercised with the happiest possible
resdlt. An ordination in a foreign country^ and espe-
milly one upon such an apparently extensire scales
ims^ to a professional man, not to be slighted ; and ac^
oordingly I determined upon making the most of the
qm^tacle before me. Looking accidentally down mf
fiHTOorite crypt, I observed that some religious cere^
mumy was going on there. The northern grate, w ^
tonce,. being open, I descended a flight of steps, and
qnickly became a lodger in this subterraneous abode;
"Pie first object that struck me was, the warm glow of
dbjr light which darted upon the broad pink cross of
the surplice of an officiating priest : a candle was
bttraing upon the altar, on each side of him : another
print, in a black vesture, officiated as an assistant-^-*
and each, in turn, knelt^ and bowed, and prayed . • to
tbe admiration of some few half dozen casual yet b,U
tantive visitors — while the full sonorous chant from the
voioes of upwards of one hundred and fifty priests and
deacons, from the chcnr above, gave a peculiar sort of
aolemmty to the mysterious gloom below. In spite of
mf abstraction, I did not £bu1, however, to notice tbiit
tbe pallani, about half a dozen in number, were of the
deuraoter of those in the crypt of the Ahhmfe mut
Iktme^ ftt Qmi hnt tl» t9e{>ital of the fiisi piikir^

368:

BAYEUX.

upon entering, exhibits almost the perfect Compo^te
order ! . • . while the other capitals are,^ generally^ of
the grotesque character of the xiith centiuy. Hie
arch above them takes its spring immediatriy from the
abacns of the capital : producing rather a dngiriar
effisct : there is something like painting in finewbjntfc
above the capital: but evidently, I should thiak^wof
thelatter half of the xvth century.

I now ascended ; and by the help of a chair, took a
peep at the ceremony through the intercolummatim»
of the choir : my diffidence, or rather apprehensionof n-
fiisal, having withheld me f]x>m striving to gain admib*
tance within the body. But my situation was asingularfy
good one : opposite the altar. I looked, and behekL'^kk
vast clerical ccmgregation at times kneeling, or standn^
or sitting : partially, or wholly : while the swdl of their
vmces, accompanied by the full intonati<ms of the
gan, and the yet more penetrating notes of the serpent^
seemed to breathe more than earthly solramity arouwL
The ceremony had now continued full two hoars-^
when, in the midst of the most impressive part of Jt^
and while the young candidates for ordination wem
prostrate before the high altar — the diapasoa stop c$
the organ (as at Dieppe) sending forth the softest notes
•!~the venerable bishop placed the glittering mitre
(apparently covered with gold gauze) upon his head^
and with a large gilt crosier in his right hand, de<»
seended, with a measured and majestic step, ftom l3im
floor of die altar, and proceeded to the execution of the
more mysterious part of his office. The cancfidatcs^
with closed eyes, and outstretched hands^ weretondnd
jMi the holy oil — and tlms became caoienatML . Oa

BAYEUX.

393

•ririiig^each received a small piece of bread between the
thumb and forefinger^ and the middle and third fingers ;
tteir hands being pressed together — and^ still with
doted eyes retired behind the high altar — ^where an o&k
CMting priest made use of the bread to rub off the holy
ojL The bishop is an elderly man, about three score and
tm ; he has the usual sallow tint of his countrymen^
but his eye, somewhat sunk or retired, beneath bladE
WnL overhanging eyebrows, is sharp and expressive
-<^«and his whole mien has the indication of a weUU
brad and well-educated gentleman. When he descend**
ed with his full robes, crosier, and mitre, from the high
altar, methought I saw some of the venerable forms of
owWykbhams and WAVNRFLETBsof old — commands
iqg the respect, and receiving the homage, of a grate*
fbl congregation I You must allow, my dear friend^
thai if there be few ceremonies more imposing, there
aure also few more beneficial, than that which I have
described ; and that impressions, imbibed in young and
honest minds, by such serious offices, are not easily
effaced, but are productive in the end of the most sala*
tary results. I really do not speak and reason thus
because I have partaken of the same ceremony, in a
mitigated form, in my owh country— or from any vio^
lent adherence to what may be called a Laud-like pas
Am for hierarchy. On the contrary ... but you know
my sentiments upon this head so frdly, that, if you
pltase, as this ceremony is just ended — ^ we will tfrike
»ittroU together to see what else is worthy of observa<
tiDD.within this veneraUe cathedraL How provoking
«-f«r rathar how disgusting! • At the very momcpi
Hqr niiodMdtifly oti^^

BAYEUX.

from tfaul ishgfB&SLceat spectacle; t MwHed ittta <^
l4ufy*9 Chapel; behind the choir^ and behdd' ^ AgtA
which converted serionsness into snrpiite^llOftlerilij^
uponi mirth. Abore the altar of this reMOIety ^itiiaMd
ohapel^ stands the ibcaos of thb Vihoin with tliK^iil^
fint Jesus in ber wms. This is the nsnal -chief oraiP
pmrt of Our Lady's Chapd. But whart; dmpery Ibr tM
mother of the sacred child I^tiff, starchy rectiriigtlu
kiiy^lded white muslin, stuck about with dhreriif
artificial flowers — like uato a shew figtire in BtWok
Green Fair ! This ridiculous and most disgusting tm^
tome began more particularly ai; Caudd&ec. is if
jptrsevered inr Why is it endured? The FVenblt'tuMtf'a
quick sensibility, and a lively al|)prehenrioti wfaM
is? beautiful and brilliant in the arts of scu^stms
PmI painting . . • but the terms ^ jolijr geatik^^* and
^;pp^re,^ arc made use of, like chaiity; te ^^covw^iA
Bwdititude of sins'* * . or aberrationsirom true taste :t
toarcely stopped a minute in this chapiil,- but proctfeedeA
to a side one, to the right, which yet afibtcb procrf^^
its pristine splendour. It is coTcred with goU aid
colours. Two or three supplicants 'were kneeling before
the crucifix, and appeared to be tso absorbed in thar
devotions as to be insensible of every surrounding oV
ject. To them, the particular saint (I have forgotten
the name) to whom the little chapel was dedicated,
seemed to be dearer and more interesting tlum the
gCMral voice of praise and thanksgiving^ with wfalA
the : choir of the cattiedral resounded. Befbre we
q[oii the place you must know that foutlscoK oandit
dates were ordadned : that there are;8i3ety cleq^ at-
tadMHbto the^hodf^i ; «nd'that vinraiMM ftwh

8S6

4rad< th<ii»aiid sotils anre under the ^pkitaal eogniMace
of tlie BiBHC^B OP Baymvx. The treasufes of the
Aedral' were once exeeBsive/^ and the episcopal stiptttd
pfoportionably large : bnt^ of late years^ thingft^ are
ndlf dmnged. The Calvinists in the sixteenth cen^
tivyy be^fan the work of havoc and destraction ; and
tiiB Rerolnticmists in the dghteenth, as nsml^ ^|mt
tbevcolophon"" to these devastations. At present^ fihom
la^tmy respectable source of information, I learn tbtit the
ranMnes of thei Bishop scarcely exceed 7001^ annnm
if ow own money. The chapter had anciently the
j^il^ of coining money. I cannot take leave of the
tfathedfal without commending in strong terms of ad-"
ttir|tti9o^ the lofty flying buttresses of the exterior of
tl»nare. Tbe^perpendicular portions are crowned with
sicnlptured whole lengtb %ure, from which the semi-
arah takes its spring ; and are in much more elegant
iaste tiban ayy other part of the builcKng. While view«
ing the exterior, you cannot &il to be struck, in the
genaral dearth of monuments^ with the following mjrs-*
ttnooB inscri^ion rf*

QuAite dies Ftachft fcwfBt cum

Que iacet hie uetok uoiimiiB exeqidas,
Leiitieqne diem magii amisuae dolemuB

Qoam centom tales d caderentuetide.

^i^ere aiioe exemm.]---€ette^;ttae . ..^toilaana^soati^
pfatf ridiea de Franoe en vaaea d*or d'aigeiit> et de piemriea ) em i^
Kqaeaetenornemens. Leprob^yerbalqiiiavoit^ diesa^ detiwlea
aea rfekesaea^ en 1476, cootient tm detail qid ▼& presque k YioiBtd**

< i iki^mif9teHomm$cr^>Hm.J—^^ inaeriplioib dontlei kttm
aootaMknoB «ttdaeaqii*oaa'«B aerfOil othH ka ^pfciosgnaar aa

356

BAYEUX.

Hard by the cathedral stood formerly a magnifibeiA
BPI6C0PAL PALACE. Upon this palace the old wvitem
(and Bezieres, in particular — whose sensible mannalof
the history of the town^ I purchased within two hours
after my arrival here) dearly loved to expatiate. Tbera
is now however nothing but a good large comfortable
fiunily mansion: sufficient for the purposes of such
boqritality and entertainment as the episcopal revenues-
will afford* I have not only seen, but visited^ this
^iscopal residence. In other words, my fiiend Pierre-
Aim6 Lair having promised to take his last adieu Of
me at Bayeux, as he had business with the Bishop, I
met him agreeably to appointment at the palace : but
his host, with a strong corps of visitors^ having just
sate down to dinner — ^it was only one o*clock — bade
him adieu, with the hope of seeing the Bishop on
the morrow — ^to whom he had indeed mentioned
my name. Our£EU*ewell was undoubtedly warm and

porte ni date ni nom appeOatif. Quelques uns pr^tencleiit iiu^elle
regarde la Maitresu du Due de Narmandie, qvd, an lien d'te« cuteii<ip
dans r^lifle^commeelle Tavoit dedr^, fut endav^e^ pour parlor aliin,
daoB r^paisaeur du mur de la Tour^ par ordre du cfaafntie. Ne serait-
ce point plut6t liobelle de Douvre, maltresse de Robert Cooite de
Gloce8tre> batard de Henri I. Roi d*Angleterre« dont naipiit Ricbard,
qui malgr^ le ddfeut de sa naissance fut nomm^ Fan 1 133, kTEvMi^
de Bayeux) La date de son Obit au 94 d'Avril indnue, que ce fntle
joordeaond^c^s. La femme d^ngn^ dans T^pitaphe moorat agfc>
et aux F^tes de Fftques : at F&quea en I'ann^e 1166 tomlMi aatl#.'
d*ATriL Ces cpoques paroistent asses s*accorder entr^dles, et Tii^
scription est assur^ent du m^e terns.*' In a note, Bezierea addsy
Le Necrologe delaCath^rale en Mi mention en oes temies : Mdie
menrii JpriUi, ObUui habellU, mairiM Rkhardi JE^dicofi iqfoc JOU

BAYEUX.

857

iiafiere. He had volunteered a thousand acts of kind-
ness towards me without any possible motive of self
int^^est; and as he lifted up his right hand^ exckdming

adieu^ pour toujours! — I will not dissemble that
I was sensibly affected by the touching manner in
which it was uttered . . and Pibrrb Aimi^ Lair shall
always claim from me the warmest wishes for his
prosperity and happiness. I hurried back through
the court-yard — at the risk of losing a limb from the
ferocious spring of a tremendous (chained) mastiff—
and without returning the salute of the porter^ shut
the gate violently, and departed. For five minutes^
pacing the south side of the cathedral, I was lost in
a variety of even painful sensations. How was I to
4Be the Library ? — where could I obtain a glimpse of
the Tapbstry r — and now, that Kerre Aim6 Lair was to
be no more seen, (for he told me he should quit the
place on that same evening) who was to stand my
friend, and smooth my access to the more curious and
coveted objects <^ antiquity ?

Thus absorbed in a variety of contending reflec-
tions, a tall figure, clad in a loose long great coat, in a
very gracious manner approached and addressed me.
" Your name. Sir, is D * * ♦ At your service,
Sir, that is my name."* You were yesterday evening
Bt Monsieur Pluquet*s, purchasing books I was,
Sir.^ It seems you are very fond of old books, and
especially of those in the French and Latin languages

I am fond of old books generally ; but I now seek
more particularly those in your language — and have
been delighted with an illuminated, and apparently
coeval, MS. of the poetry of your fitmous Olivibr

VOL. I. Y

858

BAYEUX.

Bassblin, which . . You saw it^ Sir^ at Monnair
nuquet*s. It belonged to a common firiend of ns both.
He thinks it worth . • He asks ten Unas dor tot
% and he shall have them with all my heart." Sir,
I know he will never part with it even for that large
gum.** I smiled, as he pronounced the word larger —
bethinking myself of Atticus, for whose library I
had intended it ! Do me the honour. Sir, of vifflting
my obscure dwelling, in the country— a short league
from hence. My abode is humble : in the midst of an
orchard, which my father planted: but I possess a
few books, some of them curious, and should like to
read double the number I possess.*' I thanked the
stranger for his polite attention and gracious c^er,
which I accepted readily . . This evening, Sir, if
you please.*' With all my heart, this very evening.
But tell me. Sir, how can I obtain a sight of the Chap-
ter Library, and of the famous Tapestry?*' l^ieak
softly, (resumed the unknown) — for I am watched in
this place. You shall see both — ^but must not say that
Monsieur ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ was your adviser or friend.
For the present, farewell. I shall expect you in the
evening." We took leave ; and I returned hastily to the
inn, to tell my adventures to my companion.

There is something so charmingly mysterious in
this little anecdote, that I would not for the world add
a syllable of explanation. Leaving you, therefore, in
full possession of it, to turn and twist it as you please
consider me as usual. Yours.

359

LETTER XVI.

VISIT NBAR ST. LOUP. M. PLUQUET^ APOTHECARY AND
BOOK-VENDER. VISIT TO THE BISHOP. THE CHAP-
TER UBRARY. DESCRIPTION OF THE BAYEUX TAPES-
TRY> WITH FAC-SIMILES. TRADE AND MANUFACTURES.

Well^ my good friend ! the stranger has been visited;
his library inspected: his services accepted : and his cha-
racter partly unfolded. To this I must add^ in the joy of
my hearty (as indeed I mentioned slightly in my last)
that both the Chapter Library and the famous Tapes-
try have been explored and examined in a manner^
I trusty worthy of British curiosity. I hardly know
what sort of order to adopt in this my second and last
epistle from Bayeux ; which will be semi-bibliomania-
oal and semi-archaeological: and sit down, almost at
random, to impart such intelligence as my journal and
memory may supply.

The last was almost a purely ecclesiastical dispatch :
as I generally first take oflf my cap to the towers and
turrets pf a cathedral. Now then for the stranger!
* * for it would be cruel to prolong the agony of
expectation. Mr. Lewis having occupied himself,
almost exclusively, with his pencil during the whole
morning, I persuaded him to accompany me to St.
jAmp. After dinner we set out upon our expedition.
It had rained in the interim, and every tree was
charged with moisture as we passed them . . their

360 BAYEUX.

blossoms exhaling sweets of a yet more pungent fin*
grance* The road ran in a straight line from the west
front of the cathedral, which, on turning round, as we
saw it irradiated by partial glimpses of sunshine, be-
tween masses of dark clouds, assumed a very imposing
and venerable aspect. I should tell you, however,
that the obliging Monsieur # * * ♦ • came himself
to the Hdtel de Luxembourg, to conduct us to his
humble abode : for humble'' it is in every sense of the
word. About two-thirds of the way thither, we passed
the little church of St. Loup : a perlfect Gothic toy q{
the xiith century — ^with the prettiest, best-proportknied
tower that can be imagined. It has a few slight cfan^
tered columns at the iTour angles, but its hdgfat and
breadth are truly pigmy. The stone is of a wfaitish
grey. We did not enter ; and with difficulty omdd
trace our way to examine the exterior through the faigb
grass of the church yard, yet Icdd with the heavy rain.
What a gem would the pencil of Blorb make of this
tiny, ancient, interesting edifice I At length we struck
off, down a lane slippery with moisture — when,
opening a large swinging gate — hevfi (exclumed our
guide) — ^lived and died my father, and here his son
hopes to live and die also. Gentlemen, yonder is my
hermitage.*" On looking at it,

... I said to myself if there's peace in the world,
A heart that is humble might hope for it here.

It was indeed a retirement of the most secluded kind :
absolutely surrounded by trees, shrubs, hay-stacks, and
corn-stacks — for Monsieur * • • * • hath a &ncy
for fiuming as well as fbr reading. The stair-case,

BAYEUX.

361:

though constructed of good hard Nonban stone, was
much worn in the middle from the frequent tread of
half a century. It was also &tiguingly steep, but
biekily it was short. We followed our guide to the
left^ where, passing through one boudoir-like apaet*
ment, strewn with books and papers, and hung with
tt'imrcel of mean ornaments called pictures, we en*
tend a second — of which portions of the wainscoat
were taken away, to shew the books which were de»
posited behind. Row after row, and pile upon pile,
•thick my wondering eye. Anon, a closet was opened
-"T^und there again they were stowed, thick and three-
Ibid/* A few small busts, and fractured vases, were
meant to grace a table in the centre of the room. 0£
the books, it is but justice to say that rarity had been
flBcrificed to utility. There were some excellent^ choice^
oiitical works : a good deal of Latin; some Greek,
and a sprinkle of Hebrew — for Monsieur * * . * is
both a general and a sound scholar. On pointing to
HwAiganfs Hebrew Bibley in four folio volumes, 1712,

do you think this copy dear at fourteen francs T ssuid.
he I — " How, Sir,'* (i*eplied I, in an exstacy of as-
tonishment)— ^you mean to say fourteen lauis ?** Not
at all. Sir. I purchased it at the price jmit men-^
tioned, nor do I think it too dear at that sum,** re-
sumed he, in the most unsuspecting manner. I then
told him, as a sort of balsamic consolation, that a late
friend (I alluded to poor Mr. Ormerod) rejoiced on
giving £12. for a copy by no means superior. Ah,
l&bon Dieu I • • •** was his only observation thereupon.

When about to return to the boudoir, through whieh
we had. entered^ I observed with mingled, surimae. and

362

BAYEUX.

pleasure, the four prettily executed English prints^
after the drawings of Lady Spencer, called Ntw
Shoes,'' — Nice Supper,'' &c. Monsieur ♦ • • ♦ was
pleased at my stopping to survey them. Ce sont
Uty Monsieur (observed he), les dames qui me font
toujours compagnie — nor can you conceive the reatf
soft and gentlemanly manner, accompanied by a voice
subdued even to sadness of tone, with which he made
this, and almost every observation. I founds indeed,
from the whole tenor of his discourse, that he had a
mind in no ordinary a state of cultivation : and on ob-
serving that a great portion of his library was thbolo-
-^iCAL, I asked him respecting the general subject
upon which he thought and wrote. He caught hold of
my left arm, and stooping (for he is much taller than
myself, . . • which he easily may be, methinks I hear
you add . .) Sir, said he, I am by profession a deigy-
man . . although now I am designated as an ex-Curi*
I have lived through the Revolution • • and may have
partaken of some of its irregularities, rather, I shooU
hope, than of its atrocities. In the general hue-and-
cry for reform, I thought that our church was capabk
of very great improvement, and I think so still. The
part I took was influenced by conscientious motives,
rather than by a blind and vehement love of reform ;
but it has never been forgiven or forgotten. The esta-
blished clergy of the place do not associate with me ;
but I care not a forthing for that — since I have here
(pointing to his books) the very best society in the
world. It was from the persuasion of the clergy hav-
ing a constantly-fixed eye upon me, that I told you I
was watched . . when walking near the precincts of the

BAYEUX.

363

eathedral. I had been seeking you during the whole
of the office of ordination.** In rq>ly to my question
about his archoeological researches, he said he was
then occupied in writing a disquisition upon the Bay-
emst Tapestry J in which he should prove that the Ahh6
de la Rue was wrong in considering it as a perfonn-
aoce of the xiith century. He is your great anti-
quarian oracle'* — observed I. He has an over-rated
rqratation** — replied he — " and besides, he is too hy-
pothetical.** Monsieur # # * * • promised to send
me a copy of his dissertation, when printed ; and then
let our friend N * * ♦ be judge " in the matter of the
Bayeux Tapestry.** From the open windows of this
hermitage, into which the branches absolutely thrust
thraiselves, I essayed, but in vain, to survey the sur-
rounding country ; and concluded a visit of nearly two
hours, in a manner the most gratifying imaginable to
himest feelings. A melancholy, mysterious air, seemed
yety however, to mark this amiable stranger, which
bad not been quite cleared up by the account he
bad given of himself. Be assured (said he, at part-
ing) that I will see you again, and that every fiEicility
■ball be afforded you in the examination of the Bayeux
Tapestry. I have an uncle who is an efficient member
of the corporation.**

Never was a solitude more complete, nor were man-
ners more mild than those of Monsieur
and I returned through the orchard which his father
bad planted, with sensations that it would be difficult
to describe. On my way homeward, I called again
upon M. Pluquet, an apothecary by profession^ but a

364

BAYEUX.

book lover and a book Tender* in hifl beart. The
•cene was ratber singular. Below, was bis Pharma-
copeia ; above were bis bed-room and books ; with a
broken would-be antique or two, in the cotirt^jrard,
and in the passage leading thereto. My first visit
had been hasty, and only as a wbetter to the second.
Yet I contrived to see from a visitor, who was pre*
sent, the desirable MS. of the vulgar poetry of Olivibb
Basselin, of which I made mention to M. * • Tlie
same stranger was again present. We all qoiedy
left the drugs below for drugs of a diflferent de-
scription above — books being called by the ancients,
you know, the " Medicine of the Soul." We
mounted into the bed-room. Two birds, in comically-
wired cages, were suspended from the cieling, and
warbling aloud. A sick child, of three years of age,
lay in a crib, by the side of the bed of Monsieur and
Madame Pluquet^ — ^the pillows of which were fnnged
in a very fonciful manner. Opposite the side of the
bed, were some few half dozen shelves, covered with
books of all descriptions. M. Pluquet now opened
his bibliographical battery upon us. Gentlemen (for
M. Lewis was with me) you see, in this room, all
the treasures in the world I possess : my wife— -my

* He has ainoe established himself at Faris^ as a bookidier : and
it is scarcely three months since I received a letter from him, in
which he told me that he could no longer resist the more powerful
impulses of his heart — and that the phials of physic were at length
abandoned for the volumes of Verard and of Gouimont. My ftiendj
Mr. Dawson Tnmerj who knew him at Bayeux^ has pordiased hooka
of him at Paris.

BAYEUX.

365

i^d— my books—my antiquities.** Here the child
moaned somewhat piteously, crying out cher papa,
veaez ici but the hard-hearted biliomaniacal iEsou-
lapius continued — with a parenthetically pronounced

soyez tranquille, mignon " — Yes, gentlemen, these
nrt my treasures. I am enthusiastic, even to mad-
ness, in the respective pursuits into which the latter
branch out ; but my means are slender — and my aver-^
sion to my business is just about in proportion to my
fondness for books. Examine, gentlemen, and try
your fortunes.**

I scarcely needed such a rhetorical incitement:
but alas ! the treasures of M . Pluquet were not of a
!nature quite to make one's fortune. I contrived,
with great difficulty, to pick out something of a re-
cherchS kind ; and expended a napoleon upon some
scarce little grammatical tracts, chiefly Greek, printed
by Stephen at Paris, and by Hervagius at Basil:
among the latter was the Bellum grammcUicale of
E. Hessus. M. Pluquet wondered at my rejecting the
folios, and sticking so closely to the duodecimos ; but
bad he shewn roe a good Ferard Romance or Eustace
Proissart^ he would have found me as alert in running
away with the one as the other. I think he is really
the most enthusiastic book-lover I have ever seen:
certainly as a Bibliopolist. We concluded a very ani-
mated conversation on all sides : rendered more noisy
by the notes of the canaries, (who raised their voices
as we raised ours) and the squalling of the sick child^
who necessarily in turn became more clamorous as
papa and mama refused to listen to its cries. M.

366

BAYEUX.

Pluquet told me at parting that M. * * * had requested
his uncle to facilitate our researches respecting the
Chapter Library, and the Tapestry : that he had him*-
self spoken to the adjoint of the mayor respecting
the former, and that the Abb6 F^tit had been solicit-
ed to promote my wishes in regard to the latter.
Upon the whole, this was one of the most yariouriy
and satisfactorily spent days of my *^ voyage biUio-
graphique.''

On the morrow, the mysterious and amiable M.
• • * was with me betimes. He said he had brought
a basket of books, from his hermitage, which he had
left at a friend's house, and he entreated me to come
and examine them. In the mean while we had had
not only a peep at the Tapestry, but Mr. Lewis
had obtained pmnission to make a fec-simile of such
portion of it as I might deem necessary for any par-
ticular object in view. I had been introduced to the
mayor, who is chief magistrate for life : a very Caesar
in miniature. He received me stiffly, and appeared
at first rather a priggish sort of a gentleman ; observ-
ing that my countryman, Mr. Stothard,* had been

* Mr. Stothard, Jun. This gentleman has completely finished his
lAboiurs> in a manner which reflects equal credit upon the Societj of
Antiquaries^ at whose expense his mission was performed^ and upon
himself. His own account of the tapestry may be seen in the xxxth
tolume of the Archsologia. It is brief, perspicuous, and satis&c-
tory. His fac-simile is one half the size of the original 5 executed
with great neatness and fidelity ; but probably the touches are a
UiUe too artist-like or masterly. This invaluable drawing wiU be
engraved and published by the same Society.

BAYEUX.

967

afready there for six months^ upon the same errand^
and what could I want further?** A short reply
served to convince him that it would be no abuse of
an extended indulgence if he would allow anotter
English artist to make a fiEU^-simile of a diflferent de-
scription, from a very small portion only/* Permis-
skm was then granted — the Tapestry unrolled — and
down sat, or stood, or stooped, my graphic companion
to commence and conclude his labours. Let us leave
him awhile, hard at work, and continue the hooh-nar^
ratwe.

In our way to M. ♦ * * **s friend, I called with
him at the Abb^*s, with a view to get a sight of the
Chapter Library. He was from home, but would re-
turn in an hour. I then attacked the aforesaid basket
— ruot of apples, or of flowers, but — of haohs : and from
a few unimportant articles I selected a loose uncut
(mark that !) copy of the Petit Bernards Ovid*s Meta-
morphoses*, of which the generous Stranger begged
my acceptance. What a pretty thing will Charles
Lewis (thought I to myself) make of this book!**
and so sapng I slipt it gradually, but in the face of
all present, (mark that also!) into my large inner
pocket. Meanwhile a young paysanne^ of the superior
ordw, arrived with her cher ami ; who carried a gay
china cup in one hand, and a slender cane in the
other. Droll accompaniment! She had averytower-
ing^^cauchoise ; and as it was market-day, was dressed
in her best. A fourth gentleman next arrived;
another friend of M. * * ♦ ♦'s. He had brought a

* (kmsultthe MtUogrophical Decameron toL l.p. 181-8.

BAYEUX.

hd exemplaire*' of a Latin Testameni in a silk haiid-^
kerchief, and would I do him the &Yoar to accept*
i»r I was absolutely "p6n6tr6.*' This foUowedits
precursor into the self-same inner pocket. It was
bound in blue morocco, and the outside decoration
pttt me in mind of Count Hoym — simply because the
arms of that distinguished Bibliomaniac were upon
the coyer.

The little book-assembly broke up, and the Stranger
again accompanied me to the Abb6. Mofethan^afB*
hour had clasped — but the Ahh€ was still invisibld*.
The maid smiled as I repeated the question of his
being at home, and I thought I saw the head of it'
man peeping through the blinds of the parlour. Yotf
shall quickly know why I am thus particular. This
will never do, said I to my amiable companion : we
will go at once to the Bishop.'* ^^Say not toe;** lie-
replied. If you take me there, you will never obtain
the object you have in view. Besides, lam an excom-
municated man. . added he, smiling. He left me, to
return with his basket of books under his arm to his
beloved hermitage ; promising to see me once again be«
fore my departure. I then went boldly towards the epis^
copal palace, and wrote a note in pencil to theBidiop
at the porter's lodge, mentioning the name of M. Lair,
and the object of my visit. The porter observed that
they had just sat down to dinner — but would I ottH
at three? It seemed an age to that hour; but at
lei^h three o'clock came, and I was punctual to the
milDUte. The recollection of a certain library attached
to one of the most venerable and most magnificent of
the cathedrals of our own countiy — and of which the

BAYEUX.

curators have always shewn a most liberal sense of its
management^ as well as a just appreciation of its trea^
sores — has always inlBiamed my curiosity to take
ar peep at C^aptft MStuoi^f wherever situated. I was
immediately admitted into the premises, and even the
htge mastiff seemed to know that I was not an un-
expected visitor— for he neither growled, nor betrayed
any symptoms of uneasiness. In my way to the bxl^
dience chamber I saw the crosier and robes which the
Bishop had worn the preceding day, at the ceremony
oi ordination, lying picturesquely upon the table : a
good vignette (thought I to myself) for a history of
the cathedral. The audience chamber was rather an
d^nt one, adorned with Gobeleins tapestry, quite
fresh, and tolerably expressive : and while my eyes
were fastened upon two figures enacting the parts of
an Arcadian shepherd and shepherdess, a servant came
in and announced the approach of Monseignsur
l*£vBQUB. I rose in a trice to meet him, between
doubt and apprehension as to the result. The Bishop
entered with a sort of body-guard; being surrounded
by six or seven canons who had been dining with him^
and who peeped at me over his shoulder in a very
ttgnificant manner. The flush of good cheer was
▼ifttble in their countenances — but for their Diocesan,
I must say that he is yet more interesting upon a
fiuniliar view. He wore a close purple dress, but-
toned down the middle from top to bottom. A cross
hmng upon his breast. His countenance had lost
nothing of its expression by the absence of the mitre,
and he was gracious even to loquacity ! I am willing
to hq)e that I was eq<ially prud^t and brief in the

370

BAYEIDL

q>ecificatioii of the object I had in view. My retjiiest itbs
as promptly as it was courteously granted. Yea wiD
excuse my attending you in person ; (said the Bishop)
but I will instantly send for the Abb£ F^tit^ who is cor
librarian ; and who will have nothing to do but to wuit
upon you, and fiEicilitate your researches." He then
dispatched a messenger for the reluctant LitmriaBi
and b^n a familiar chat respecting the sitnatkm
and number of my Cures^' — ^the answer to which of
eoorse did not require a catalogue raimmU. At tiie
mention of this Abb6 F^tit, I pricked up my eai8~
but I had now only to thank the Bishop for his poUte*
ness, and to wish him a good day. The Abb6 F^lit
quickly arrived with two more, who came trotting
after him — and enlivened by the jingling music of the
library keys^ which were dangling from the Abb6*8
fingers, I quickened my steps towards the Chapter
library.

: But I was resolved to catechise this said Abb6 for
his indvility in not admitting me into his house after
two repeated calls. While therefore we were posting
thrbugh the transepts of the cathedral, or rather just
as we had gained a confined passage, aft;er turning the
key upon the north transept door, I began to prepare
my string of interrogatories. My first question was
perfectly a home thrust : Je vous dirai (replied he,
very readily— just as the key of the Library door had
been admitted into the wards of the lock, and looking
at me at the same time rather archly, over his rig^t
shoulder) je vous dirai pourquoi je ne vous ai pas
admis chez moi, pour causer touchant la bibUoth^ue.
^'6toit parce que j*ai bien apper^u que voire com*

BAYEUX.

871

pagnon n*4toit pas Fhamme pour nous.** The reool-
lection of the conversation near the cathedral^ the
preceding day — as well as the whole conduct of M * * —
immediately came across me . . and I asked no more
questions. But the Ahh€ complaisantly, and even
jocosely, added — " comme vons Stes bien avec Mon-i-
seigneur L*£v6que, vous verrez tout ce qu*il vous font.
Ah 9a, montons!'* This addition"* — ^together with
a certain unaccountable magnetic influence, arising,
I make no doubt, from the properties of the /uirni'
iure above stairs*— entirely subdued all irritabilities,
and I mounted a good deal quicker than my com*
panions.

We were no sooner, all four, fairly within the library,
than I requested my chief conductor to give me a brief
outline of its history. " Willingly*' he replied. " This
library, the remains of a magnificent collection, of from
30, to 40,000 volumes, was originally placed in the
Chapter-house, hard by. Look through the window
to your left, and you will observe the ruins of that
building. We have here about 6000 volumes: but
the original collection consisted of the united libraries
of defunct, and even of living, clergymen — ^for, during
the revolution, the clergy, residing both in town and
coimtry, conveyed their libraries to the Chapter-house,
as a protection against private pillage. Well ! in that
same Chi^ter-house, the books, thus collected, were
piled one upon another, in layers, flat upon the flow —
reaching absolutely to the deling . . . and for ten long
years not a creature ventured to introduce a key into
the library door. The windows also were rigidly kept
shut. At length the Revolutionists wanted lead for

372

BAYEUX.

musket balls^ and they anroofed the chapter-house;
/ with their usual dexterity. Down came the rain upon^

the poor books^ in consequence ; and when M. Moy-
sant received the orders of government to examine
this library^ and to take away as many books as he
wanted for the public library at Caen ... he was abso-.
lutely horror-struck by the obstacles which presented
themselves ! From the close confinement of every door
and window, for ten years, the rank and fetid odour,
which issued therefrom, was intolerable. For a lull fort-
night every door and window was left open for venti-
lation, ere M. Moysant could begin his work of selec-
tion. He selected about 5000 volumes only ; but the
infuriated Revolutionists, on his departure, wantonly
plundered and destroyed a prodigious number of the
remainder • . et cnfin (concluded he) vous voyev.
Monsieur, ce qu'ils nous out laiss^.** — ^You will give
me credit for having listened to every word of such a
tale.

The present library, which is on the first floor, is
apparently about twenty-five feet square. But what,
think you, was the first curiosity which the Abb4 F^tit
jdarted upon to shew me ? The Contes de la Fontaine
in four folio volumes — as common a work (I had al-
most said) as a penny roll. My cicerone was astonish-
ed on hearing of its frequent occurrence with us ; — but
I hastened to dispense with his services — ^under the more
courteous toumure de phrase of giving him no fur-
ther trouble, and began to cater for myself. On. re-
marking that, of the jicta Sanctorum^ they had only
20 volumes, — it is complete nevertheless,** was. the
reply I A good sample of fitness for the pffice of Head

liftirariaii/ f had not yet met with a diDgle copy of
Hie Pohfglat Bible of Cardinal JGmeneSj and of course
wil8 not mnch disappointed at finding it wanting here.
Of Le Jajfs Polyglot there was, as nsual^ a very desi-
rAble copy. The Abb6 made me observe the Xlllth.
i^nme of the Gallia Christianay* in boards, remark-
kig that it was of excessive rarity i* but I doubt this.
On shewing me the famous volume of Sanctius or San--
ehez de Matrimonio SacramentariOy 1607, folio, the
Abhi observed — that the author wrote it, standing
with his bare feet upon marble.** I was well pleased
with a vastly pretty illuminated ms. Missaly in a large
thick quarto volume, with borders and pictures in good
condition ; but did not fail to commend right hear-
tily the proper bibliomaniacal spirit of M. F^tit in
ha;ving reserved (or kept concealed) the second volume
of Gering^s Latin Bible — being the first impression of
the sacred text in France — ^when M. Moysant came
armed with full powers to carry off what treasures he
pleased. No one knows what has become of the first
Y<dume, but this second is cruelly imperfect — contiun-
ing about a dozen blank leaves to supply the place of
those which were wanting. It is otherwise a fair copy.
ITiere are scarcely any classics, and not three of the
tvth century. Upon the whole, although it is almost
a matter of conscienccy as well as of character, with me,
to examine every thing in the shape of a library, and
especially of a public one, yet it must be admitted that

* the Gallia CAmiknur.J^A complete copy is of excesaiy^ rarity
our own country, but not bo abroad. It is yet^ however, an imperfBCl
wdfk.

VOL. !• Z

374

BAYEUX,

the collection under consideration is hardly worthy cf a
second visit : and accordingly I took both a first aoda
final view of it. The Ahh€ F^tit gsdned upon me madi
before I took my leave. To say the truth, he is not
only very good-looking, but very civil, and even isMr
tious in his manner of shewing the book-lions. Why
does an unchristian-like spirit of prejudice, in religMm
matters, turn the milk of human nature into gall ?

From the Cliapter I went to the Coulbgb Librabt.
In other words, there is a fine public school, orLyce£,
or college, where a gi*eat number of lads and young
men are educated according to art.*' The buildiiig
is extensive and well-situated : the play-ground is large
and commodious ; and there is a well-cultivated gar-
den tempting with forbidden fruit.** Into this gar-
den I strolled in search of the President of the College,
who was not within doors. I found lum in company
with some of the masters, and with several young men
either playing, or about to play, at skittles. On com-
municating the object of my visit, he granted me an
immediate passport to the library — mais. Monsieur,
(added he) ce n*est rien : il y avoit autrefois quelque
chose ; maintenant, ce n*est qu*un amas de livres tth
communs.'* I thanked him, and accompanied the
librarian to the Library ; who absolutely apologized
all the way for the little entertainment I should receive^
There was indeed little enough. The room may be
about eighteen feet square. Of the books, a great por-
tion was in vellum bindings, in wretched condition.
Here was Jaj/s Polyglot^ and the matrimonial Sane-
tins again! There was a very respectable sprink-
ling of Spanish and French Dictionaries ; some few not

BATEUX.

S7S

WlMlljniidtskfMe Aldoses ; and the rare Lonvain edi
tiM dt Sir Th&mas More's Works, printed iti 1566, fcK
Mdw^ I too with horror-mingled regret, a frightfuUy
imperfect copy of the Service of Bdyeu^ Cathedraly
printed in the Gothic letter, upon vbllum. But the
great cariosity is a small brass or bronze crucifix,
aboiit nine inches high, standing upon the mantle-
piece ; very ancient, from the character of the crown,
which savours of the latter period of Roman art — and
which is the only crown, bereft of thorns, that I ever
saw upon the head of our Saviour so represented. The
eyes appear to be formed of a bright brown glass.
Upon the whole ; as this is not a book, nor a fragment
of an old illumination, I will say nothing more about
its age. I was scarcely three quarters of an hour
in tbe library ; but was fully sensible of the politeness
of my attendant, and of the truth of his prediction,
that I Should receive little entertainment from an
enmination of the books.

Now then, my friend, it is high time that you should
be introduced in proper form to the famous Bayei^x
l^APasTRT. Let us leave, therefore, paper and print-
ing, for linen and needle-work. It is unnecessary
to communicate the hundred little things which oc-
curred till Mr. Lewis had finished his laborious task,

• ike rare Lowain edition of Sir Thofnat More*t Works, &c.] —There
iMnre been bibliographers^ and there are yet knowing book-coUecton,
who covet this editk>n in preference to the Leipsic impression of SirT.
More*8 Works of 1 698 ; in folio. But this must proceed from sheer ob-
stinacy or rather^ perhaps, from ignorance that the latter edition con-
tains the Utopia — whereas in the former it is imaccountably omitted to
be vquinfeed— which ftmigfathave been^ from various previous editions*

376

BAYEUX.

after an iq)plicatioii of six or dght honrs^ for two tiic^
cessive momiDgfiu His labours are at an end, and
they have been thoroughly successfuL I hope to carry
with me, throughout France and Germany, this most
maryellous fac-simile — stitch for stitch^ colour for co^
loiu*, size for size. Not that I would be understood to
ujQder-rate the previous labours of Mr. Stothard, which
are in truth equally admirable— only that they are of a
different nature, and upon a more extensive scale.
Know then, in as few words as possible, that this cele-
brated piece of Tapestry represents chiefly the Invasion
OF England by William the Conqueror, and the
subsequent d^ath of Hait>ld at the battle of Hasr
tings. It measoiea abpot S14 English feet in length,
by about nineteen inchHiii width ; and is supposed to
have been woiked under ^ particnlar superinten-
danceand direction of Matilda» 4kit irifii of tiieCion-
queror. It was formerly exclusively kept and exhi-
bited in the Cathedral ; but it is now justly retained
in the Town Hall, and treasured as the most precious
relic among the archives of the city. TTiere is indeed
every reason to consider it as on^ of the most valuable
historical monuments, which France possesses. . It has
also given rise to a gnat deal of archaeological discus^
i^ion. Montfoucon, Ducarel, and De La Rue, have
come forward successively — ^but more especially the
first and last : and Monkfoucon in particular has fiir
voured the world with, oopper-^late representations of
the whole. There are in fact several series of plates of
portions of this needle-work ; but all those which I have
seen are lamentably defective. Montfaucon's plates
are generally much too small : and the more enlarged

BAYEUX.

377

are too ornamental. It is right, first of all, that you
should have an idea how this piece of tapestry is pre-
served, or rolled up. You see it here, therefore, pre-
cisely as it appears after the person who shews it takes
off the cloth with which it is usually covered.

378

BAYEUX.

A female unrolls and explains it to yoa. The first
portion of the needle^work, representing the embassj
of Harold, from Edward the Conf(^or to William
Duke of Normandy, is comparatively much defeeed:-^
that is to say, the stitches are worn iaway^ and little
more than the ground, or fine close linen cloth, remains.
It is not far from the be^nning — and where the colour is
fresh, and the stitches are, comparatively, preserved —
that you see the Portrait of Harold which accom-
panies this letter,* Nothing can be more true to the
original.

* See the Opposite Plats. In the original, this figure, which is
upon horseback, is thus introduced — with the attendant pursohrants
and dogs : but great liberties, as a nice eye will readily discern— eren
upon this reduced scale — ^have been taken, when compared with the
opposite fac-simile. The ensuing is a mere copy of the smaller suite
from MontflEuicon } also in outline.

BATEUX.

879

You are to understand that the^ stitches^ if they may
be so called^ are threads laid side by side — and bound
down at intervals by cross stitches^ or fastenings-^upon
rather a fine linen cloth ; and that the parts intended
to represent jiesh are left untouched by the needle. I
obtained a few straggling shreds of the worsted with
which it is worked. The colours are generally a faded
or bluish green, crimson, and pink. About the last five
feet of this extraordinary roll are in a yet more de-
cayed and imperfect state than the first portion. But
the designer of the subject, whoever he was, had an
eye throughout to Roman art — as it appeared in its
later stages. The folds of the draperies, and the pro-
portions of the figures, are executed with this feeling :
witness the following representation of one of the
messengers of William.

I admit that this is a mere copy of Montfaucon*s
plate, and that, compared with the original, it is too
sharp and brilliant — ^but you can hence judge pretty

880

accurately of the general character the origitaal.
You may possibly like to have a further speoiiiieii or
two : first of the Shipping , and secondly of the Arckitec-
ture. Take th^^ and admit that they are very cniioas
and very interesting performances of the age.

BATEUX.

S81

: You will bbserve that, both at top and at bottom of
the principal subject, there is a running allegorical
ornament ;* of which I will not incur the presumption
to suppose myself a successful interpreter. The constel-'
lations, and the symbols of agriculture and of rural oc-
cupation, form the chief subjects of this running orna-
ment. All the inscriptions, as you have them above, are
executed in capital letters of about an inch in length ;
and upon the whole, whether this extraordinary and in-
valuable relic be of the latter end of the xith,or of the
banning or middle of the xiith century^ seems to me a

* a running allegorical ornament,'] — Something similar may be seen
Doand the border of the baptismal vase of St. Louis, in Millin*s Antp-
qmUt Naiionales. A part of the border in the Tapestry is a represen-
tation of subjects from ^sop*s Fables.

f be of the latter end of the Xlth or of 4he beginning or middle of the
Xllih century] — Of a monument^ which has been pronounced by one
of our ablest antiquaries to be The noblest in the world relat-
uie TO OUR OLD English History,*' (See Stukely's PaUtog, Britan,
Number XI. 1746, 4to. p. 2-3) it may be expected that some archaeo-
logical discussion should be here subjoined. Yet I am free to confess
that, after the essays of Messrs. Gumey> Stothard, and Amyott> (and
more especially that of the latter gentleman) the matter — as to the
period of its. execution — ^may be considered as well nigh, if not
wholly, at rest. These essays appear in the XVIIIth and XlXth
vcdumes of the Archaeologia. The Abb^ de la Rue contended that this
Tapestry was worked in the time of the second Matilda, or the Empress
Hand, which would bring it to the earlier part of the xiith. centurjr.
The antiquaries above mentioned contend, with greater probability,
that it is a performance of the period which it professes to commemo-
rate ; namely, of the defeat of Harold at the battle of Hastings, and
consequently of the acquiring of the Crown of England, by conquest,
on the part of WiUiam* This latter therefore brings it to the period
of about 1066|t to 1088 — so that, after all, the di£Ference of opinion is

388

SAYEUX.

matter of rather secondary consideration. Tbat it ik at
once (boiTowing a word out of the bibliomaniacal to^:

only Aether this Tapestrj be fiftyyean Mat, or younger Uma th^
lespective advocate contend.

Mr. Gurney^s Essay is chiefly occupied by the IntcriptianM and St/A*
iecU** These are faithfully specified ; as are the engravings of a few of
the subjects to be seen on the banners. Mr. Gumey justly observes
that " the prints we have of it, are very insufficient to convey any
accurate idea*' of the original. He further calls the perfonoaiioi
f an apologetical history of the claims of William to the Crown of
England, and of the breach of faith and fall of Harold) and that it li
a perfect and finished action/' Archsologia : voL xviii. p. d59.<-4lfr.
Charles Stothard has an observation worth extracting. On coming
(myB he) to that part of the tapestry where Harold is priscmer In the
hands of Guy Earl of Ponthten, a most singular custom first preaents
itself in the persons of Duke William, Guy, and thehr people ; not
only are their upper lips shaven, but nearly the whole of their heads,
excepting a portion of hair left in front. It is from the striking con-
trast which these figures fbnn with the messenger who is croiicl&^
before William, that it is evident he is a Saxon, and probably dis*
patched from Harold. It is a curious circumstance in favour of tiie
great antiquity of the Tapestry, that time has, I believe, handed down to
UB no other representation of this most singular fashion, and itappears
to throw new light on a fact, which has perhaps been mimmderstood:
the report made by Harold*s spies, that the Normans were an army of
priests, is well known. I should conjecture, from what appears in
the tapestry, that their resemblance to priests did not so much arise
fmn the upper lip being shaven, as from the circumstance of the
complete tonsure of the back part of the head. The following pas-
sage seems to confirm this coiyecture, and at the same time to prove
the truth of the tapestry :

Un des Engles que ot veus,
To8 les Normans res et tondus
Cuida que tot provoire feussent
Et que messes eaater peussent

LeRmm^ Rmt,f6L2SjL

BAYEUX.

388

cabidarjr) unique and important^ must be considered as
a pootion to be neither doubted nor denied. It is at once

• How (oontinuefl Mr. StoChard) are we to reconcile these fiicts with
ft conjecture that the tapestry might have been executed in the time of
Ckury the Erst, when we are well assured that during the reign of
UMit king the hair was wom so long, that it excited the anathemas of
iiw ehurch Y* Archteologia ; vol. xix. p. 184, &c.

But the most copious, particular, and in my humble judgment the
most satisfiurtory, disquisition upon the date of this singular historical
monument, is entitled Defence of the early AnOquiiff of the Boffem
Tapestry,"* by Thomas Amyott, Esq. immediately following Mr. Slo^
ttard*s communication, in the work just referred to. it is at direct issue
^rith all the hypotheses of the Ahbi de la Rue, and in my opinion the le^
fohsare triumphantly established. Whether the Normans or theEngUth
worked it, is perfectly a secondary consideration. The chief objections^
lilben by the Abb^, against its being a production of the xith century,
eonsists in, first, its not being mentioned among the treasures possessed
by the Conqueror at his decease secondly, that, if the Tapestry, were
deposited in the church, it must have suffered, if not have been anni-
hilated, at the storming of Bayeux and the destruction of the Cathedral
by fire in the reign of Henry I., A. D.'1106 : — ^thirdly, the silence of
Wace upon the 8ubject,*»-who wrote his metrical histories nearly a cen*
tarj after the Tapestry is supposed to have been executed." The
latter is chiefly insisted upon by the learned Abb^; who, which erer
diampion come off victorious in this archoeological warfiure, must
•t any rate receive the best thanks of the antiquary for the methodical
sod erudite manner in which he has conducted his attacks.

At the first blush itcannot fail to strike us that the Abb^ de la Rue's
positions are bW of a negative character; and that, accordingto the strict
ndes of logic, it must not be admitted, that because such and such
writers have not noticed a circumstance, therefore that drcumstam^
or event cannot have taken place. The first two grounds of objection
have, I think, been fairly set aside by Mr. Amyott. As to the third
olgection, Mr. A. remarks — But it seems that Wace has not only
n6t quoted the tapestry, but has varied fimn it in a manner which
{AOfes that he had never seen it. The instances given of thiaTariatiim

384

BAYEUX.

an exceedingly curious document of the conjugal attach-
ment, and even enthusiastic yeneration^ of MatHiDa^

tfe» bowerer, a little unfiNrtanate. The first of them is yery ndanpor-
taiit» for the difference merely consists in placing a figure at the iierm
instead of the prow of a ship^ and in giving him a bow instead of.a
trumpet. From an authority quoted by theAbb^ himself, it appean
thatj with regard to this latter fiict, the Tapestry was rights and Wace
was wrong : and thus an argument is unintentionally furnished in
fimmr of the superior antiquity of the Ti^^estiy. The second instance
of Tariation, namely, that relating to Taillefer's sword, may be easily
dismissed ; since, after all, it now appears, from Mr. Stothard*s ezami-
Mtion that neither Taillefer nor his sword is to be (bund in the
Ti^wstry,*' &c. But it is chiefly from the names of JSlfgtta and Wa*
oaan, inscribed over some of the figures, that I apprehend the oondu*
sioQ in &vour of the Tapestry's being nearly a contemporaneous
pioduction, may be safely drawn.

It is quite dear that these names belong to perstms living when the
work was in progress, or within the recollection of the woricers, and
that they were attached to persons of some particular note or celebrity^
or rather pertiaps of local importance. An eye-witness, or a con-
temporary only would have introduced them. They would not have
lived in the memory of a person, whether mechanic or historian> whd
lived a centunf after the event. No antiquary has yet fieurly approt
priated these names, and more especially the second. It follows
therefore that they would not have been introduced had they not beea
in existence at the time ; and in confirmation of that of Wadakd, it
seems that Mr. Henry Ellis (Secretary of the Society of Antiquaries^

confirmed Mr. Amyott*s conjecture on that subject, by the references
with which he furnished him to Domesday^ Book, where his name
occurs in no less than six counties, as holding lands of laige extent
under Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, the tenant in capite of those propertiss
ftom the crown. That he was not a guard or centinel, as the Abb^ de
la Rue supposes, but that he held an office of rank in the household of
either William or Odo, seems now decided beyond a doubt.** Mr
Amyott thus spiritedly concludes alluding to the successful comple-
tkm of Mr. Stothard's ciopy cif the entire original ndi.— Yet if the

BAYBUX.

and a political record of more weight tlian may. at first
fligbt appear to belong to it. I suspect that^in paiatiDg
as well as in poetry, a little fiction is mixed up with
the truth ; but taking it altogether none but itsdf

Baybux TAFBtsTRT be not history of the first class, it is perhaps some-
ttdog better. It exhibits general traits, elsewhere sought in vain, of
the costume and manners of that age^ which, of all others, if we ei^-
cept the period of the Reformation, ought to be the most interesting
to us ; — that age, which gave us a new race of monarchs, bringing with
them new landholders, new laws, and almost a new language*' . . .

Most sincerely therefore do I congratulate the Society on possessing
a fiiithful and elegant copy of this matchless relic, affording at once
a testimonial of the taste and liberality of our Council, and of the dili-
gence and skill of our artist/'

Mr. Amyott has subjoined a delightful specimen of his own poetiod
powers in describing " the Minstrel Taillepbr's achievements,'* fai
die battle of Hastings, from the old Norman lays of Gaimar and Wao^.
lam hfilf tempted to subjoin it ; but can ofnly find room for the first few
verses. The poem is entitled.

The Onset of Taillsfkr.

Foremost in the bands of France,
ArmM vrith hauberk and vrith lance.
And helmet glittering in the air.
As if a warrior knight he were,
Rush'd forth the Minstrel Taillbfbr
Borne on his courser swift and strong.

He gaily bounded o'er the plain.
And raised the heart-inspiring song
(Loud echoed by the warlike throng)

Of Roland and of Charlemagne,
Of Oliver, brave peer of old.

Untaught to fly, unknown to yield.
And many a Knight and Vassal bokl,
Wh^se hallowed blood, in crimson flood.

Dyed /iMKrm//^ field.

986

BAYEUX.

loan be its pamllel.^ I have learnt^ evm here^ c(f
what importance this tapestry*roli was considered in
the time of Buonaparte's threatened invasion of oinr
coahtry : and that, either after, or befon^ displaying it
at Paris for two or three months, to awaken the curio-
sity and excite the love of conquest among the dti-^
sens, it was conveyed to one or two sea-port townsi
and exhibited upon the stage as a most important nm-
iiriel in dramatic effect. Whether, at such a sight, the
soldiers shouted — and, drawing their glittering swords.

Clashed on their sounding shields the din of war,

•--confident of a second representation of the same
subject, by a second subjugation of our country — ^isa
point which has not been exactly detailed to me ! But
the supposition may not be considered very violent^
when I inform you that I was told, by a casual Frbnch
visitor of the Tapestry, that — *^ pour cela, si Bonaparte
avoit eu le courage, le r^sultat auroit ^t6 comme autre-
fois." Matters however have taken rather a different
turn ; and instead of all the notable duchesses and
countesses of Paris,* sitting down to display the pro-
gress and the prowess of their needles, to commemorate

* M. Denon told me, in one of my visits to him at Paris, that by
the commands of Bonaparte, he was chai^ged with the custody of this
Tapestry for three months : that it was displayed in due form and cere-
mony in the Museum and that after having taken a hasty sketch of it,
(which he admitted could not be considered as very faithful) he le-
torned it to Bayeux— as it was considered to be the peculiar property
of that place.

BAYEUX

« aeoond conquest of the same country by a seoond
tapestry roU — I would advise tbon^ as a sabject for
a reverse to the present, to embody, in suitable
stitches and tints, the poor solitary intended pillar of
nraiuifPH upon the heights near Boulogne, with the
rotting gun-boats and deserted corvettes, in picturesque
groups around ! . . . and instead of Caesar's memoraUe
threo-worded designation of victory, to substitute a
motto a little more lengthy, but not quite so pleasant:

" VOLUI SBD NON POTUI.**

And now, my dear friend, I think you have had a
pretty good share of Bayeux intelligence ; only that I
ought not to close my despatches mthout a word or
two relating to habits, manners, trade, and population.
This will scarcely occupy a page. The men and wimea
here are thoroughly Norman. Stout bodies, plump
countenances, wooden shoes, and the caucb<nse— evento
eKceedingly tall copies of the latter ! The pppulatioii
may run hard apon ten thousand. The chief articles
of commerce arc butter and lace. Of the former, there
are two sorts : one, delicate and well flavoured, is made
during winter and spring ; put up into small pots, and
carried from hence in huge paniers, not only to all the
immediately adjacent parts of the country, but even to
P^uis — and is shipped in large quantities for the coUk
nies. They have made as much as 120,0001b. weight
each season; but Isigny, a neighbouring viUage, is
rather the chief place for its production. The other
sort of butter, which is eaten by the common pec^le,
and which in fact is made throughout the whole of
Lower Normandy, (the very butter, in short, in which
the huge alase was floating in the. pot of the lively

38B

BAYEUX.

coifiin^re at Dnchdr*) is also chiefly made at hig^f;
but instead of a delicate tint, and a fine flavour, it
is very mnch the contrary : and the mode of middng
and transporting it accords with its qualities. It k
saked, and packed in lai^ pots, and even barrels, fior
the sake of exportation ; and not less than 50,0001b.
iragfat is made each week. The whole profit arising
fimn butter has been estimated at not less than two
millions of francs: add to which, the circulation of
specie kept up by the payment of the workmen, and
the purchase of salt. As to lace, there are scarcely fewer
than three thousand females constantly employed ia
the manu&cture of that article.

With respect to agricultural pursuits, in the vicinity
of Bayeux, it may be fitting that you should know
that lime is a most important article of profit* It hi
used equally for manure and for building. The softer
Hme is appropriated to the former, the harder to the
latter purpose ; and both sorts are burnt either with
wood or coal. The kilns, where coal is used, are built of
a conical form, of which the interior is about five, and
the exterior about fourteen, French feet in diameter:
the depth is about eighteen feet. Each kiln at a working
consumes about two hundred bushels of coal. The other
kilns are nearly of the same depth, and always of the
same diameter. Without reckoning those who are em-
ployed in hewing and drawing the stone, each kiln
employs twenty men, and it is filled about one hundred
times in the course of the year, yielding about seventy-
five tons of lime in the same period. One hundred
weight of lime is sold for about one franc and a half:

• ^ See page 194. ante.

BAYEUX.

3»

a treasure^ wluch, if obtainable at the same price in
our own country^ would make the farmers jump for joy.

The mechanics here^ at least some of them, are equally
civil and ingenious. In a shop, in the high or principal
street, I saw an active carpenter, who had lost the
fore finger of his right hand, hard at work — alternately
whistling and sin^ng—overaprettypieceof ornamental
furniture in wood. It was the full face of a female^
with closely curled hair over the forehead, surmounted
by a wreath of flowers, having side curls, necklace, and
platted hair. The whole was carved in beech, and
the form and expression of the countenance were
equally correct and pleasing. This merry fellow had
a man or two under him, but he worked double
tides^ compared with his dependants. I interrupted
him sin^ng a French air, perfectly characteristic of the
taste of his country. The title and song were thus:

TOUJOURS.
TwjJovMB, ioiyoun, je te serai fiddle ;
Disait Adolphe k chaque instant du jour ;
Toijyours, totyours je t'aimenti^ ma belle>
Je veux le dire aux ^chos d*alentour
Je graverai surl'^rce d'un h^tre,
€e doux serment que le dieu des amours,
Vient me dieter, en me fkisant connaitrej
Que mon bonheur est de t'aimer toujours. Bit.

Toujours, toiyours, lui r^pondit Ad^le,

Tu r^neras dans le fond de mon coeur ;

Tovyours, toujours, com me une tourtereUe,

Je promets bien t*aimer avec ardeur^

Je pense k toi quand le soleil se Vbve, . t ■ ,

J*y pense encore k la fin de son cours ;

Dans le sommeil si quelquefois je rive,

C*e8t au bonheur de te<^rirCoii(jom. *^''

aoo:

BAYEUX;

Feia robiiet de mes pins tendres vceuz^
Toi^jours, toiyours, je garderai loin d'dle
Le souvenir de sea traits radieux.
Dans ses beaux yeux V^us a son empire,
Sa douce voix commande les amours ;
Un baiser d'elle, excitant k d^lire.
Me fidt jurer de la chMr Unyours.

The craft he exercised is now lost^ as a distinct branch
of business, in our own coantry. He was a carver on
wainscoat wood : and if I would give myself la peine
d^entrer,** he would shew me all sorts of curiosities. I
secured a fovourable reception, by purchasing the
little ornament upon which he was at work — for a na-
poleon : and this ornament, if I can manage well, shall
be transported to England as soon as I reach P^ris. I
followed the nimble mechanic (ci-devant a soldier in
Bonaparte's campaigns, from whence he dated the losr
of his finger) through a variety of intricate passages
below and up stairs ; and saw, above, several excel-
lently well finished pieces of furniture, for drawers or
clothes-presses, in wainscoat wood: — the outsides of
which were carved sometimes with clustered roses,
surrounding a pair of fond doves ; or with represen-
tations of Cupids, sheep, bows and arrows, and all the
various emblemata of the tender passion. They would
have reminded you of the old pieces of furniture which
you found in your grandfather's mansion, upon taking
possession of your estate : — and indeed are of th&ak-
selves no despicable ornaments in their way. I was
asked from eight to twelve napoleons for one of these
pieces of massive and elaborately carved furniture,
some six or seven feet in height.

BAYEUX.

391

Nowfiu% you well. To have seen the Bayeux Tapb^-
TRY is a requital for all my sufferings at sea^ and all
my tours and detours by land. But^ in other respects,
this is a town well deserving of greater antiquarian re-
search than appears to have been bestowed upon it ;
and I cannot help thinking that its ancient ecclesias-
tical history is more interesting than is generally ima-
gined. Informer days the discipline and influence of its
.See seem to have been felt and acknowledged through-
out nearly the whole of Normandy. Agsdn adieu. In
imagpination/ the spires of Coutancbs Cathbdral
beg^n to peep in the horizon. First, however, for St.
Lo.

VOL. I.

A a

393

LETTER XVIL

BAYEUX TO C0UTANCE8. ST. LO. ADVENTURE AT ST.
GILLBS. THE CATHEDRAL OF C0UTANCB8. ENVI-
RONS. AQUEDUCT. MARKET-DAY. PUBLIC LIBRARY.
ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE CLERGY.

I SEND you this despatch close to the very Cathe-
dral, whose spires, while yet at Bayeux, were already
glimmering in the horizon of my imagination. The
journey hither has been in every respect the most
beautiful and interesting that we have experienced on
this side the Seine. We have seen something like
undulating pasture-lands, wooded hills, meandering
streams, and well-peopled villages ; and an air of gaiety
and of cheerfulness, as well as the charm of picturesque
beauty, has accompanied us from one cathedral to
the other.

We left the Hdtel de Luxembaurgy at Bayeux, in a
hired cabriolet with a pair of horses^ about five in the
afternoon, pushing on, at a smart trot, for Sr. Lo:
which latter place we entered by moon-light. It was
delightful to witness the gradual decay of day, as we
passed through the extended forest of Cermf ; now in
full luxuriance of foliage. The road, as usual, was
broad and bold, and at times undulating; flanked
by beech, elm, and fir. As I just observed to you,
we entered St. Lo by moon-light : the double towers

ST. LO.

393

of the great cathedral-like looking church, having
a grand and even romantic effect, as we approached
the town. An old castle, or rather a mere round-
tower relic of one, appeared to the left, upon entering
it. We passed the porch, or west end of the church,
sometimes descending, at others ascending — midst
close streets and overhanging roofs of houses, which
cast a deep and solemn shadow, so as to shut out
the moon beams for several hundred yards — and pur-
suing our winding route, we at length stopped at
the door of the principal hdtel — au Grand Coij ! We
laughed heartily when we heard its name ; for with
the strictest adherence to truth the adjective ought
to have been petit ! It was one of the dingiest and
smallest at which we had yet stopped ; a degree only
superior to that of which such honourable mention was
made in the account of Caudebec*

However, we were shewn up stairs ; and the best
front bed rooms were assigned to us. They were tole-
rably large. The beds seemed to be in good order, and
the coffee, with which we were quickly served, proved
to be excellent. We strolled out, on a reconnoissance,
about half-past nine ; but owing to th^ deep shadows
from the moon, arising from the narrowness of the
streets, we could make out nothing satisfactory of the
locale. The church, however, promised a rich treat on
the morrow. As soon as that morrow came, Mr. Lewis
sprang mth his accustomed alertness from his bed,
and betook himself to the occupations of his pencil.
It was Sunday morning. The square, before the

* See page 206, ante.

394 BAYEUX TO COUTANCES.

west front of the church, was the rendezvous both of
townsmen and countryfolks. How was I defighted
and surprised, when, on his returning to break-
fast, he exhibited a sketch,— of which you have here
the finished picture! It is a charlatan vending
powder for the effectual polishing of metals. He has
just beaten his dram, which you see by the side of him,
in order to collect his audience ; and having got a good
assemblage, is full of the virtues of his wares — ^which
are pronounced to be also equally efficacious for
colmplaints in the stomach r

ST. LO.

305

This man had been preceded^ in the situation which
he occupied, by a rival vendor, upon horseback, with
powders to kill rats. The latter stood upon the same
eminence, wearing a hat, jacket, and trowsers, all white
— ^upon which were panted hlack rats of every size
and description ; and in his harangue to the populace
he took care to tell them that the rats, painted upon
his dress, were exact portraits of those which had been
destroyed by means of his powders ! This, too, on a
Sunday morning. But remember Dieppe.* For a
wonder, I had risen time enough to take a turn before
breakfast; when I paid my respects to the Cur^^ or
minister of the church, in order to make enquiries about
a Chapter Library. For the first time, since I trod upon
GalBc ground, I found a clean, well-dressed, closely
shiivm, and respectable looking clergyman, of a Sunday
i^imiiiig. Note well, he had resSded several years in
£nglaiid as an emigrS. Such is th» force of habit. He
M0eived and treated me with that chrility whidi one
ideman should always shew to amlber ; and thoagh
^library, guch as I enquired after^ was in existr
%y I had reason to be well satisfied with my yisii.
the residMM 4>f the Cur6, (still before bveak&st)
nut the pitfect, or chief superintetodant, df
ihife Bfttel de Ville, in order to ezamuw the public U-
brary there. Although he was not al home, an entire
i^t ranger, and acddental looker on, told me he would
me where the key oonU be readily pto^
kn, equaHy gratified and surprised at this po-
Hte oflfer, I accepted it, and followed my man'' down

* See page 90, ante.

396 BAYEUX TO C0UTANCE8.

one street and ap another ; till, having obtained the
wished-for keys, I was shewn, by a second stranger, the
library in question.

It is certainly a most unostentatlons affidr^ A room,
scarcely seventeen feet square, contains the library at-
tached to the H6tel de Ville. Here I saw confiunon
of every description. Imperfect duplicates ; piled up
volumes of obsolete divinity, and neglected canon-law.
Two copies of Le Jai/s Polyglot Bible had a singular
i^pearance in this straitened collection : but there was
nothing exactly to my palate (hungry as I then was)
saving an early Boecius, a good copy oi Aldoses Qtem-
tUian of 1514, and a black letter edition of the. GrimJ
Coustumier de Normandie. The books, however^ had
suffered dreadfully during the Revolution. I thanked
my Cicerone for his obliging attention, and sought the
oofiee and eggs of the Hdtel du Grand Coq, with the
best possible disposition to do them justice. I found
Mr. L. ready to receive me — ^putting a few finishmg
touches to the characteristic drawing of which J have
just made mention. Having dispatched our break-
.fiusts, we proceeded to survey the church — ^from which
the town takes its name. And first for the es(tarior
of this edifice. The attached towers demand atten-
tion and admiration. They are so. slightly attached
as to be almost separated bom the body or nave.;
forming something of that particular character which
obtains more decidedly at the cathedral of Coutances. I
am not sure whether this portion of the church at St.
Lo be not preferable, on the score of regularity and den
licacy, to the similar portion at this latter place. The
west firont is indeed its chief beauty of exterior attrac-

ST. LO.

397

tion ; and it was once rendered doubly interesting by a
profesion of alto-relievo statues, which disappeared
during the commotions of the revolution. You ascend
rather a lofty flight of steps to this entrance ; and into
which the whole town seemed to be pouring the full
tide of its population. We sufiiered ourselves to be
canned away along Mrith the rest, — and were qiuckly
separated from each other.

I almost startled as I entered the nave.* To the
left, is a horribly-painted statue of the Virgin, with the
child in her arms. The countenance is even as ugly,
old, and repulsive, as the colouring is niost despicable.
I never saw such a daub : and what emotions, con-
nected with tenderness of feeling, or ardour of de-
Totioti, can the contemplation of such an object
excite? Surely the parish must have lost its witSy b»
weU as its taste, to endure such a monstrous exhibit
tioB of art.

As I advanced towards the choir, I took especial
notice of the very singular, and in my opinion very
Qgly, formation both of the pillars and arches which
snstain the roof. These pillars have no capitals^ and
'the arch springs from them in the most abrupt man*
ner^ The arch itself, is also very short and sharp
pointed ; like the tops of lancet Mdndows. This mode
obCuns pretty generally here ; but it should foe noted
iSM, in the right feide aisle, the pillars have capitals,
lliefe 18 something unusual also in the row of pil-
lars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way

* M. Coiman has a view of this church ; as annoimced in his Pr»-
q>ecttt8.

398 BAYEUX TO €OUTANCES.

between the walls of the choir and the outward wall
of the church. Nor am I sure that, destitate of a
^ceful, superadded arch, such massiye perpendiculai^
Imes have either meaning or effect. Whether St. Lo
were the Jirst church upon which the architect^ who
built both that and tlie cathedral at Coutances, tried
his talents — or whether, indeed, both churches be the
effort of the same hand — I cannot pretend to d^er-
mine ; but, both outwardly and inwardly, these two
churches have a strong resemblance to each other.
Like many other similar buildings in France, the
church of St. Lo is closely blocked up by the sur-
rounding houses.

On descending the flight of steps by which I had en-
tered, I turned to the right, and inquired the price of
some plaister images of the Virgin, coloured, about
three feet high, and intended as ornaments for churches.
I was asked foi-ty francs for one, which I thought a
Sufficiently extravagant price for such an article.' We
prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, aft^ agredng
for a large heavy machine, with a stout pair <^ horses,
fo conduct us to this place. Hiere are some curious
old houses near the inn, with exterior ornaments like
those of the xvith century in our own countiy. But
on quitting the town, in the road to Coutances, — after
you come to what we called the old castle walls, on
passing the outer gate— your eye is struck by rather
an extraordinary combination of objects. The town
itself seems to be built upon a rock. Above, below, all
appears like huge scales of iron; while, at the bottom,
in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful and fruitlul

BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. : 309

river Awre.* The country inixn^ately arotind abouncte
hi verdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights.
Upon the whole, our sortie from St. Lo, beneath a
bright blue sky and'a meridian sun, was extreme^
ibieerfnl and gratifying.

A hard rdad (but bold and broad, as usual) soon con-
vinced us of the uncomfortableness of our conveyance ;
which, though roomy, and of rather respectable appear^
ance, wanted springs. Add to this, the post-boy gravely

* * the peaceful and fruUful river ^tcrtf.]— -I suspect tliat the pe8oet
Ml' waters of this stream were frequently died with the blood of Bxh
gOQOts and Roman Catholics during the fierce contests between MoNTr
OOMSRY and Matignon towards the latter half of the sixteenth cen*
tmy. At that period St. Lo was one of the strongest towns in die
Socage ; uid the very pass above described, waS the avenue by whid^
Hie soldiers of the captains just mentioned, alternately advanced and
retreated in their respective attacks upon St. Lo; which at length sui^
rendmd to- the victorious army of the latter; the leader of the Cathor
Hcs* Le nom de Matignon devint alors c^lbbre dans toute TEurope.
On toivit lliistoire de ses expeditions au Bocage, et elle fut imprimie
^ Paris chez Ruffet. Les Peuples chantaient 1^ louanges dans plusi^ufii
diansons dont je rapportend quelques couplets :

At premier imtr de Mai par permissian divine,
Saixt Lo /If/ asiailli d cwpt de couleuvrinee,
Somme qi^on e^U petui que tout yfut nuh
Et cendre coruumi.
Matigwon y itait et ea Gendarmerie,
Rempan, CUrel, auui Agneawe, Ste-Marie
Qui iOM ceue disait Cohmbiires, rend§4tn
Au grand Charles ton Roi
Ou tu perdroi la vie,
ColombUrei r^fond tout rempii de/Me
De me rendre en poltron qtion ne me parte mye.
Jamais ne me rendrai
J^y veua perdre la vie.
^ Sieum : Hi^oire Jimaire dee Boeam t p. d4(K384 : mS, \3m^

40a BAYEUXTOCOUTANCES.

told 08 that he could not venture npon putting hi8
horses beyond the speed of ;^mr miles an hoiir^ (and it
was upwards of 12 miles to Coutances) as be bad to
return to St. Lq the same evenings Complaint and
vexation were equally unavailing : so we gaaed around
uSj and having got into a country of rich verdure and
variegated scen^^ we endeavoured to forget the occar
sional jolts and inconveniences of our vehicle. We
approached a pretty village ; in the centre of whidi a
church stood by the road side. It was the village of
St. GiiJiBs; to which saint the church is dedicated.
This was too tempting an object to forego the visita^
tion of it. Our time was oor own ; and both the garden
and the sturdy Norman horses, which he drove so ki-'
smrdy along, were also at our command. Arretez :**
and in five seconds we were within the church — a dr»»
ry, deserted, and unomamented building ; but yet an*
dent. Somebroken fragments ofsculpture were thrown
about in obscure places — but what is that yonder T
observed I to my companion. A more interesting mor-
ceau^— and clearly of the time of Francis I. — I had not
seen. It was a dead Chiist in the lap of his mother,
each without head and feet. Mr. Lewis took a small
and hasty sketch of it, and we both agreed that a more
interesting and perfect specimen of the scu^ture of that
time had not been seen by us. It was lodged npon a
stone shelf, or projection from the wall, and might be
about two feet in height.

The more I examined it, the greater was my admira-
tion. Let us see if we cannot obtmn it.** So wjin%
— (leaving Mr. L. to make further sketches) I quitted
the church, and enquired for theresidenceof Monsieur

ST. GILLES.

401

JLe Cut6. His house was completely a rural hermitage ;
half smothered with the blossoms of trees of various
descriptions. The good man bad dined^ and was di-r
gesting his potage by a stroll in his garden. He was
decently attired ; and looked with more than ordinary
surprise at the intrusion of an English stranger* In
three minutes I told my tale. Without making the
least objection, or even observation, he looked around
him, and replied coolly — A 9a, mais il font mettre
les sabots, parceque le hameau est un peu crott^ h
cause de la pluie qui vient de tomber.** So the worthy
Cur6 put on his wooden shoes, surmounted with a
coarse skin, and we both trotted along together to^
wards the church-door, where stood the voiture and
the aforesaid sturdy Norman horses.** It was quite
a sight for the villagers ; who, by this time, had
assembled to the number of fifty at least, around the
carriage, Que vent dire tout ceci "? — was the obser*
vation of more than one of the spectators. We ap»
preached; and I was delighted to see the general
attention paid to the clergyman by the respectful
manner of their salutation. Under such a convoy I
considered myself quite safe, and even b^fan to think
I might be successful in the object for which I had
InnDught him thither. But nothing could be done
without the sub-mayor. It concerned the parish at
large ; and they must be consulted. What is the sum
you propose giving for this fragment " Two louis,**
-'--replied I, with the utmost dedsioii and promptitude.

A 9a, voyons.** The sub^mayor was sent for. He
was not fyr off; — in an auberge, which we should
call a common pot-house. On his arrival the wor-

MB BAYEUX TO COUTANCES.

thy Cur^y reusing his Voice^ addressed the magistrate
wad the ' people^ — ^now much increased in number-^
and stated the object and the wishes of MonsiAair
TAnglois, voyageur antiquaire/* I then claimed a nio*
menfs attention^ and urged the reasonableness of my
proposal—to which^ as they appeared to listen^ I Mt
^considerable gratification . . . inasmuch as my Freilch
^pras endured.

The people looked at each other and siud nothing.
In the midst of this general wonder^ Mr. I». surveyed
us all with the iiitelligent eye of an artist, and dectered
that he had never seen so very singular and novel ^
«cene. His pencil was beginning to be exercised';
When Messieurs Le Cnr6 and Sous-maire consulted
apart — and turning round to me, concluded by observ-
ing— " vous pouvez bien partir : nous y aviserons ; et
t6us aurez des nouvelles li-dessus.** I requested, if they
agreed, that the marble might be sent to Pierre-Aimi
Lair at Caen ; who would receive intelligence frbmme
upon the subject, and would be authorised to pay the
two louis as soon as the packet should arrive. We
mounted our voiture, apparently in the best posrible
humour with each other: and bidding a thousand
adieus, pushed on for this place. I am very sanguine
— ^firom the good-humoured expression of countenance
of the Cur6 and Sub-mayor, after they had chatted
apart — that the affair will terminate agreeably to my
wishes.*

The reflection upon this whimsical adventure, toge-

* Not a syllable of intelligence has since reached me upon the sub-
ject. The fragment is however worth a eontre*p(r&iei.

COUTANCES.

406

ther with the mcreasing beauty of the countiy^ kept
our attention perfectly occupied — so as almost to forget
ibai the voitare was without springs — ^till the beautiftd
cathedral of Coutances caught our notice^ upon an
elevated ground, to the left. The situation is truly stri-
king, gaze from which quarter you please ; but from
that of St. Lo, the immediate approach to the town is
rendered very interesting from the broad route royale
lined with birch, hazel, and beech. The delicacy, or
perhaps the peculiarity of the western towers of the
cathedral, struck us as singularly picturesque ; while
the whole landscape was warmed by the foil efiulgeiice
oi an unclouded sun, and animated by the increasing
numbers and activity of the paysannes and bourgeoises
mihghng in their sabbath-walks. Thdr bright daHc
blues and crimsons were put on upon the occasion ;
and nought but peace, tranquillity, and fruitlulness
seemed to prevail on all sides. It was a scene wherein
you might have placed Arcadian shepherds — ^worthy
ci being copied by the pencil of Claude.
. We entered the town at a sharp trot. The postillion,
flourishing his whip, and causing its sound to re-echo
through the principal street, upon an ascent, drove to
the chief inn, the Hdtel dAngleterre, within about
one hundred yards of the cathedral. Vespers were just
over; and I diall not readily forget the rush and
swarm of clergymen who ' were pouring out, from
the north door, and covering the street with one ex*
tensive black mass. Hiere could not have been t&wef
than two hundred young Ecclesiastics — ^thus return-
ing from vespers to their respective homes ; or rather
to the CoU^, or great deriral establishment, bard

404

COUTANCE8.

by ; which having sufiered from violencie atid mgkdtf
through the revolution and Buonaparte^s dynaatj, »
now beginning to raise its head in a very distinguished
and commanding manner. It was a singular sight
— to see such a crowd of young men, wearing^ cocked
hats, black robes, and black bands with white edging!
Hie women were all out in the streets ; sitting before
their doors, or quietly lounging or walking. The af-
ternoon was indeed unusually serene.

We ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathe-
dral. It was impossible to visit it at a more fiivorabfe
moment. The congregation had departed ; and a fine
warm sun darted its rajrs in every surrounding direc-
tion. We had also a communicative and civil guide)
and were resolved to glean every intelligence wUeh
could be imparted. As we looked around, we codd
not foil to be struck with the singular arrangOEnent
of the columns round the choir : or rather of the dou-
ble msle between the choir and the walls, as at St. L o
but here yet more distinctly marked. For a wondar^
an unpainted Virgin and child in Our Lady*s chapel,
behind the choir ! There is nothing, I think, in the in^
tenor of this church that merits particular notice aQid
commendation, except it be some beautifully-stained
glass windows ; with the arms, however, of certain no^
ble families, and the regal arms (as at Bayeux)oblitera-'
ted. There is a deep well in the north transept, to sup^
ply the town with water in case of fire. The pulpit is
large and handsome; but not so magnificent as that at
Bayeux. The organ is comparatively small. Perhaps
the xiiith century is a period sufficient^ remote to
assiga for the completioik of the interior of this diorcb^

COUTANCES

405

for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis of the Abb6 de
la Rue^ that this edifice was probably erected by Tan*
cred King of Sicily at the end of the xith^ or begin*
Bing of the xiith century.

Herewith I transmit you a print* of the exterior of
this beautiful church ; which exterior is indeed its chief
attraction. Unquestionably the style of architecture
is very peculiar^ and does not^ as for as I know^ extend
beyond St. Lo, in Normandy. Our great object was
to mount upon the roof of the central tower^ which
is octagonal, containing fine lofty lancet windows, and
commanding from its summit a magnificent pano-
rama. Another story, one half the height of the pre*
sent erection from the roof of the nave, would pat a
glorious finish to the central tower of Notre Dam b at
CouTANCBs. As we ascended this central tower, we
digressed occasionally into the lateral galleries along
the aisles* To look down, was somewhat terrific ; but
we coidd not help bewailing the wretched, rotten, green^
tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle ; which
arose here, as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of
the lead (during the Revolution) to make bullets — and
from the rain-s penetrating the interior in consequence.

^ This prints about 19 inches long^ and 14 wide^ is executed in
a coane manner. It Is dedicated to " Leonor Goiyon de Matignou.
£y^ue de Coutances^ of the date of 1747. To the left«. stuck i^t
the top of a roof of a house^ the artist has represented himself in tbe
act of taking his view. I bought it for a franc. The nesrt prindpel
diurdi St. ... is to the right, as a sari of background. The whole
is ayerj gross deviation from the rules of perspective. But the reader
wiU be doobtlesa gratified by the artist-like view of M. Cotman, ^s
annouiiced to rmbelliah his JrckUe^ral JnHfuiti€i iqf Jffammdi/.

406 COUTANCES.

It was a most melancholy sight ; and the same had
occurred beneath the roof of the tower whereon we
stood, which had been also stript for the like murde-
rous purpose. As we coutinued to a^cend^ we looked
through the apertures to notice the fine formation and
almost magical erection of the lancet windows of the
western towers : and the higher we mounted, the more
beautiful and magical seemed to be that portion of the
building. At length we reached the summit; and con:
centratiug ourselves a little, gazed around.

The view was lovely beyond measure. CoutaDoesIies
within four miles of the sea, so that to the west and south
appeared an immense expanse of ocean. On the oppo-
site points was an extensive landscape, well-wooded,
undulating, rich, and thickly studded with fium-houses.
JfTsty appeared to the north-west, quite encircled by
the sea ; and nearly to the south stood out the ^Kdd
insulated little rock of GranviUe, defying the eternal
washing of the wave. Such a view is perhaps no
where else to be seen in Normandy; certainly not
from any ecclesiastical edifice with which I am ac-
quainted. The sun was now declining apace, which
gave a warmer glow to the ocean, and a richer
hue to the landscape. It is impossible to particu-
larize. ^1 was exquisitely refreshing, and joyous.
The heart beats with a fuller pulsation as the eye
darts over such an expansive and exhilirating scene!
Spring was now clad in her deepest-coloured ves-
ture : and a prospect of a fine summer and an abuii;
dant harviest infused additional delight into the, be-
holder. Immediately below, stood the insulated and
respectable mansion or Palace of the Bishop ; in tfie

COUTANCES.

407

midst of a formal garden— begirt with yet more for*
mally dipt hedges. As the Prelate bore a good char-
acter, I took a pleasure in gazing upon the roof which
contained an inhabitant capable of administering so
much good to the community. In short, I shall
always remember the view from the top of the central
tower of the cathedral of Ck)utances I*

We quitted such a spot with reluctance ; but tinie
was flying away, and the patience of the cuisinier at
the Hdtel d'Angleterre had already been put somewhat
to the test. In twenty minutes we sat down to our

* I went up to the top of the great center tower^ to enjoy one of
the finest prospects imaginable. The town of Granville appears In
fronts and beyond it are the islands of Chausey and Jersey^ at the diar
tance of seven leagues to the north, forms a noble object. The country
on all sides, towards St. ho, Avranche, and Carenten, is a garden, rich,
cultivated, and shaded with woods." [Sir Nathahiet] WraxalVs Tour,
1775, 8vo. The author, a little before, thus describes the town and
Beigfabouihood — ^but I must be permitted to question the aiccuraej of
tke date of some of the domestic architecture ; as well as of the ere<>*
tion of the cathedral in its present state. — Coutances stands on a
hill, the sides of wliich descend with prodigious rapidity. Beyond the
vale, a range of hills rises like a superb amphitheatre, and invests it on
every side. The houses bear all the marks of antiquity in their struc-
ture and taste, which is rude in a great degree. Many of them have
donybtless stood five or six hundred years ; and on one, the style oif
which merits peculiar study, is the date 1007^ yet remaining, in vety
l^ible characters. On the s^^unit of the lull, in the centre of the town^
stands the cathedral. I have spent several hours in the examination of
Us architecture. There is a grotesque beauty spread over the whole j
and the fiuitastic ornaments of gothic building are mingled with a won*
dtons elegance and delicacy in many of its parts. It was begun in
1047> and William the Conqueror, King of England^ asaated in person
at its solemn coneecFBtion some years afler."

406

COUTANCES.

dinner^ in a bed- room, of which the formtQre wm
ehiefly of green silk ; but the produce of the kitcheD
and the skill of the cook made us wholly indifierent to
surrounding objects, llie females^ even in the humblest
walks, have generally fine names ; and Fictorina was
that of the fille de chambre at the H6tel d*Angle-
terre. After dinner we walked upon what may be
called the heights of Coutances ; and a more delightfiil
iBvening^s walk I never enjoyed. The women of every
description — ladies, housekeepers, and servant maids —
were all abroad ; either sitting upon benches, or stand-
ing in gossiping groups, or straying in friendly pairs.
We were much struck with the comeliness of the
women; a certmn freshness of tint, and prevalence
of the bon point, reminded us of those of our own
country ; and among the latter, I startled, — as I
gazed upon a countenance which afforded but too virid
a resemblance to that of my late lamented niece ! Here
indeed we almost fancied ourselves in a large mar-
ket town in England. Certainly the Norman women
are no where more comely and interesting than at
Coutances.

The immediate environs of this place are beautifiil
and interesting: visit them in what direction you
please. But there is nothing which so immediately
strikes you as the remains of an ancient Aqueduct;
gothicised at the hither end, but, with three or four cir-
cular arches at the further extremity, where it springs
from the opposite banks. Mr. Lewis in his stroll of
this morning — ^it being market-day — ^visited that par-
ticular spot, and from thence took the charming little
view,— of the aqueduct in the foreground, and the ca-

COUTANCES.

409

diedraly and St. . . . in the distance,— of which I trans-
mit you a finished copy.* Tlie market-people add
mildb to the effect ; while the peculiar play of light
and .shade cannot fidl to strike you as singularly happy.
Fine as was yesterday^ this day has not heen inferior
tiil>it. I was of course glad of an opportunity of visiting
the market, and of mingling with the country people.
Tlie boulevards afforded an opportunity of accomplish*
ing both these objects. Corn is a great article of
trade ; and they have noble granaries for depositing it
Apparently there is a great conflux of people, and
much business stirring. I quickly perceived, in the
midst of this ever-moving throng, our old friend the
vender of rat-destroying po\^derfr-r-biisied in the exer-
cise of his calling, and covered with his usual vest-
ment of white, spotted or painted with black rats.
He found plenty of bearers and plenty of purchasers.
All was animation and bustle. In the midst of it, a
man came forward to the edge of a bank — below which
a great concourse was assembled. He beat a drum, to
announce that a packet boat would sail to Jersey in the
course of the afternoon ; but the people seemed too
intent upon their occupations and gambols to attend
to him. I sat upon a bench and read one of the little
chap hoclks— Richard sans peur — which I had pur-
chased the same morning : Mr. L. being wholly occu-
lted, in the mean time, with the'view of which I have
jnst made mention.

While absorbed in reflections upon the heteroge-
neous scene before me — and wishing for some of my
dearest friends in England to be also spectators of it —

* See TBB Opposite Flate.
▼OL I. B b

410

COUTANCES.

the notes of an hand-organ more and more dis-
tinctly stole upon my ear. They were soft, and even
pleasing notes. On looking round, I observed that the
musician preceded a person, who carried aloft a waxen
Virgin with the infe^nt Jesus ; and who, under such a
sign, exhorted the multitude to approach and buy his
book-wares. I trust I was too thorough-bred a jRoar-
burgher to remain quiescent upon the bench : and
accordingly starting up, and extending two sous, I be-
came the fortunate purchaser of a little chap article —
of which our friend Bernardo will for ever, I fear,
envy me the possession ! The vender of the tome sang
through his nose, as the organ warbled the following

EN L*BONNEUR DU TRE8-8AINT 8ACEEMENT,

Qui est txposi dans la grande EgUse caih^drale de St, Pierre et St Paul
de Rome, pour implorer la miM&icorde de Die%u

A IB : Du Theodore Francais.

Approchez-vour, Chretiens fid^les^
Afin d*entendre rdciter :
Ecoutez tous avec un grand z^le,
Avec fen-eur et ^i6ii,
Le voeu que nous avons hit,
D'aller au grand Saint Jacques ;
Grace k Dieu nous Tavons accompli.
Pour Tomour de J^sus Christ.

Dieu cr^ le del et la terre,
Les astres et le firmament 3
n fit la brillante lumibre,
Ainsi que tous les autres ilimens,
II a tir6 tout du n^ant,
Ce qui respire sur la terre :
Rendans hommage k la grandeur
De notre divin Cr6ateur.

COUTANCES.

411

* . TVms lea jours la malice augmente, II y a tr^-peu de religion \
La jeuoesse est trop p^tulaate^ Les enfEins jurent le saint Nom. £t
opmment s*^tonneroit-on Si tant de fl^ux nous tourmenteut, £tsi Ton
▼oit tant de malheurs, C'est Dieu qui punit les p^cheurs.

Souvent on assiste k VOffice^ C'est comme une mani^re d*acquit^
Sans penser au saint Sacrifice, Oti s*est immol^ Jesus-Christ. Oh
parle avee ses amis De ses afiaires temporelles. Sans fisure aucune at-
tention Aux myst^res de la religion.

Hifl^hissez bien, p^res et m^res, Sur ces morales et v^rit^s: C'est
la loi de Dieu notre P^re; C'est lui qui nous les a dict^es : II faut les
suiyre et les pratiquer, Tant que nous serous sur la terre. N'oublions
point qu'api^s la mort, Nos ames existeront encore.

J^sos nous en montre I'exemple Par sa bont^ et par sa douceur.
Mnrdions^ allons k son saint Temple^ Pour le prier avec ferveur. Pour
qu'il r^pande ses bienfaits Sur les pr^cieux biens de la terre, Et qu'il
accorde k chaque maison Sa saintc benediction.

Portons, Chretiens, sur nous I'imageDe notre Sauveur J6sus-Christj
Flafons la dans notre manage. Sera en tout lieu notre appui. II met
le Chretien k I'abri Du feu du ciel et du tonnerre. Portons les armes
du Seigneur, Pour nous preserver de malheur.

Que la paix chez nous toi:gours r^ne, £n bons Chretiens accordons-
nous, £t que tons les troubles s'dteignent. Nous gouterons un sort plus
doux. Que d une parfedte union Nous jouissions comme des fr^res :
Ayons confiance en J^sus Christ, Nous aurons ses dons infinis.

Adorons tons, d'lin coeur sincere, J^sus-Christ notre Rddempteur 5
Offrons-lui nos voeux, nos pribres; Keclamons le avec ferveur. Tons
les jours prions le Seigneur De nous preserver sur la terre, De mal-
heurs et d'accidens. Prions le Sauveur tout-puissant.

The day was beginning to wear away &st, and I had
not yet accomplished the favourite and indispensable
object of visiting the Public Library. I made two
unsuccessful attempts ; but the third was fortunate.

* It cannot fiail to be noticed that the following smtences are in fisct
r%iiiiiig' vene, though printed prose-wise.

413

CX)UTANCES.

I had no letter of introduction, and every body was
busied in receiving the visits of th^r country friendB.
I was much indebted to the polite attention of a
stranger : who accompanied me to the house of the
public librarian, his friend, and, he not being at home,
undertook the office of shewing me the books. The
room in which they are contained — ^wholly detached —
and indeed at a considerable distance from the ca-
thedral— ^is about sixty English feet long, low, and
rather nan-ow. It is absolutely crammed with books,
in the most shameful state of confusion. I saw, for
the first time in Normandy, and with absolute glad*
ness of heart, a copy of the Complutensian Pofygldt
Bible ; of which the four latter volumes, in vellum
binding, were tail and good : the earlier ones, in calf,
not so desirable. For the first time too, since treading
Norman soil, I saw a tolerably good sprinkle of Halim
books. Ascensius*s first edition of Bedels EpisHeSy in
small quarto : several old first editions of Greek au-
thors : and a copy of the edition of the History of the
Chevalier Bayard, with the portrait, precisely in the
same style of binding, as that for which, at the sale
of the Roxburghe Library y I was insane enough to
give nine guineas. Bat the collection stands in dread-
Ail need of weeding. Indeed, this observation may
apply to the greater number of public collections
throughout Normandy. I thanked my attendant for
his patient and truly friendly attention, and took my
leave.

In my way homewards, I stopped at M. Joubert*8,
the principal librarian, and beat about the bush** for
bibliographical game. But my pursuit was not crowned

C0UTANCE8.

413

with raccesfik M. J. told me, in reply to black-letter
enquiries, that a Monsieur A****, a stout burly man,
whom he called un gros p^a'' — was in the habit of
paying yearly visits from Jersey, for the acquisition of
the same black-letter treasures ; and that he swept
away every thing in the shape of an ancient and equi-
vocal volume in his annual rounds. I learnt pretty
nearly, the same thing from. Manoury at Caen. M»
Joubert is a very sensible and respectable man ; and is
not only Seul Imprimeur de Manseigneur CEvSque**
(PiBRRE Dupont-Poursat), but is in fact almost the
only bookseller worth consulting in the place. I
bought of him a copy of the Livre (TEglise ou Nau-
veau Paroissien a V usage du Diocise de Coutances, or
the common prayer book of the diocese. It is a very
thick duodecimo, of 700 double columned pages, print-
ed in a clear, new, and extremely legible character^
upon paper of sufficiently good texture. It was bound
in sheepskin, and I gave only tkirtj/ sotis for it new.
How it can be published at such a price, is beyond my
conception* M. Joubert told me that the compositor
or workman received 20 francs for setting up 36 pages^
and that the paper was 12 francs per ream. In our
own. country, such prices would be at least doubled.

It is impossible not to be struck here with the great
number of young ecclesiastics. In short, the estab-
lishment now erecting for them, vrill contain, when
completed, (according to report) not fewer than four
hundred. It is also impossible not to be struck with the
extreme simplicity of their manners and deportment.
'Riey converse with apparent familiarity with the very
humblest of their flock : and seem, from the highest to

414 COUTANCES-

the lowest, to be cordially received. They are indiffe-
rent as to personal appearance : one young man car-
ries a bundle, as if of linen for his laundress, along the
streets : another carries a round hat in his hand, with a
cocked one upon his head : a kitchen utensil is seen in
the hand of a third, and a chair, or small table, in that
of a fourth. As they pass, they are repeatedly saluted.
TUl the principal building be finished, many of them
are scattered about the town, living quite in the upper
stories. In short, it is the profession, rather than the
particular candidate, which seems to claim the respect-
ful attention of the townsmen.

Thus much, or rather thus little, for Coutances. At
five this afternoon we start in the cabriolet of the dili-
gence for Granville — where we purpose sleeping. I
regret that my time will only allow of so superficial a
survey of this interesting place : of which both the
town and the environs would richly repay a week*s resi-
dence at least . . and I have been here scarcely seventy-
two hours ! A well-built country-house in the neigh-
bourhood, especially in that direction whither the aque-
duct leads, would be a delightful acquisition to the
lover both of nature and of the antiquities of art. In-
deed, to a Parisian, what residence, throughout Nor-
mandy, could be more desirable ? But Fictorina has
announced the speedy approach of the diligence —
and having dispatched our medntenon cutlet and our
vin de Beaune, we are preparing for our departure.
A thousand adieus.

415

LETTER XVIII.

JOURNBY TO GRANVILLE. GRANVILLE. VILLB DIBC.
ST. SEVER. TOWN AND CASTLE OF VIRE.

Vire.

Since my last, I have been as much gratified by the
charms, of nature and of art, as during any one period
of my tour. Prepare, therefore, for a melange of intel-
ligence; but such as, I will make bold to predict^
cannot fidl to afford you considerable gratification.
Normandy is doubtless a glorious country. It is
fimitful in its soil, picturesque in the disposition of its
la,nd and water, and rich in the architectural relics of

the olden time/' It is also more than ordinarily in-
teresting to us Englishmen. Here, in the very town^
whence I transmit this despatch — ^within two hundred
and fifty yards of the hotel of the Cheval Blanc^ which
just now encloses us within its granite walls — here, I
say, lived and revelled the illustrious family of the Db
Verbs.* Hence William the Conqueror took the
£unous Aubrey db Verb to be a spectator of his
prowess, and a sharer of his spoils, in his decisive sub-
jugation of our own country. It is from this place that

* The reader wUl find the fullest particulars relating to this once-
distinguished family, in Halstead*s Genealogical Memoirt of Noble
Families, &c. : a book, it is true, of extreme scarcity : but in lieu of it
let him consult CoUim^s Noble FamiUes.

416

COUTANCES TO GRANVILLE.

the De Veres derive their name. Their once-proud
castle yet towers above the rushing rivulet below^
which turns a hundred mills in its course: but the
warder's horn has long ceased to be heard, and the
ramparts are levelled with the solid rock with which
they were once, as it were, identified. The ruin, how-
ever, which remains, will probably speak for itself in
the course of this epistle.

I recollect that my last concluded with the an-
nounce of the lurrival of the diligence at Goutances,
an4 of our preparatloa for departure to GrafwUte,
in our route hither. We were well pleased to .find
a seat in the cabriolet occupied by a very agreeable
and intelligent countryman — ^Lieutenant M. of the
n>yal artillery at Woolwich : with whom we quickly
became fEuniliar — and who was, at that moment, in
the pro^cution of an extenave tour to all the sea port
towns, of France. We left Coutances with something
i^proaching to reluctance; so completely anglicised
seemed to be the scenery and inhabitants. Tlie evening
was beautiful in the extreme; and upon gaining the
height of one of the opposite hills, within about half a
league of the town, in the high Granville route, tjre
alighted walked, stopped, and gazed, alternately,
upon the lovely landscape around us — the cathedrali ifa
the mean time, becoming of one entire golden tint
from the radiance of the setting sun. It was hardly
possible to view a more perfect picture of its kind;
and it served as a just counterpart to the more expan-
sive scene which we had contemplated, but the pre-
ceding evening, from the heights of that same cathe-
dral. Mr. Lewis was for exercising his pencil without

GRANVILLE.

417

dday ; but an en avant"* from the conducteur roused
him from his rapturous abstraction^ when we remounted^
and descended into a valley ; and ere the succeeding
height was gained, a fainter light floated over the dis-
tant landscape . • . and every object reminded me of the
accuracy of those exquisite lines by Collins — descrip-
tive of the approach of evening's

. . . gradual^ dusky veil.

For the first time, we had to do with a drunken con-
ducteur. Luckily the road was broad, and in the
finest possible condition, and perfectly well known to
the horses. Every turning was successfully made;
and the fear of upsetting began to give way to the
annoyance experienced from the roaring and shouting
of the conducteur. It was almost dark when we reach-
ed Granville — about twelve miles from Coutances ;
when we learnt that the horses had run six miles before
they started with us. As we descended towards the town,
the road was absolutely solid rock : and considering what
a house we' carried behind us (for so the body of the rft'/i-
gence seemed) and the uncertain footing of the horses,
in consequence of the rocky surface of the road, we
ai^rehended the most sinister result. Luckily it was
moon-light; when, approaching one of the sorriest
looking inns imaginable, whither our conducteur (in
spite of the better instructions of the landlord of the
H6tel d*Angleterre at Coutances) had persuaded us
to go, we alighted with a thankful heart, and bespoke
supper and beds. The landlord's, or landlady's name
was Fouche ; whereas we ought to have paid our re-

418

GRANVILLE.

spects to Madame Puquet— or some such name — and
it is right that, (for the benefit of all travellers^ who
are unhappy unless they sleep at what is called the
principal inn") the first auberge, to the left, upon
entrance into Granville, be studiously avoided. But
wherefore ? In a case of necessity, or indeed in any
case, let none but the most fastidious eschew the resi*
deuce of Madame Fouche ; for her manner is civil,
her discourse is kind, her farinage is sweet and good,
her beds are clean, and her charges are moderate.

. In the morning (which was one of the coldest I ever
remember for the season of the year) Mr. Lewis rose
betimes, and betook himself, as usual, to his pencil:
but the time did not admit of any very extensive
operation.

Granville is fortified on the land side by a de^
ravine, which renders an approach from thence almost
impracticable. On every other side it is defended by
the ocean, into which the town seems to have dropt
perpendicularly from the clouds. At high water,
Granville cannot be approached, even by transports,
nearer than within two-thirds of a league ; and of course
at low water it is surrounded by an extent of sharply
pointed rock and chalk: impenetrable — terrific — and
presenting both certain failure and destruction to the
assailants! It is a Gibraltar in miniature. The
English sharply cannonaded it a few years since, but
it was only a political diversion. No landing was
attempted. In the time of the civil wars, and more
particularly in those of the League, Granville^ how-
ever, had its share of misery. It is now a quiet, dull^

GRANVILLE TO VIRE. 419

dreary, place ; to be visited only for the sake of the
view from thence, looking towards St. Maloy and
Mont St. Michel; the latter of which I give up — as
an hopeless object of attainment. After breakfast
—which was of the very best quality — we joined our
fellow traveller Lieutenant M. in visiting the town.
Granville is in fact built upon rock ; and the houses
and the only two churches are entirely constructed
of granite. The principal church (I think it was the
principal) is rather pretty within, as to its construc-
tion ; but the palpably gloomy eflfect given to it by
the tint of the granite — ^the pillars being composed
of that substance — renders it disagreeable to the eye.
We saw several confessionals ; and in one of them, the
office of confession was performing by a priest, who
attended to two penitents at the same time ; but whose
physiognomy was so repulsively frightful, that we
could not help concluding he was listening to a tale
which he was by no means prepared to receive. Mr.
Lewis took a sketch of him.

An hour's examination of the town thoroughly satisfied
us. There was no public conveyance to ^/re, whither
we intended immediately departing, and so we hired a
voiture to be drawn by one sturdy Norman horse. To
a question about springs, the conducteur replied that
we should find every thing " tvhs propre/' We paid
our reckoning, parted with reluctance from our ami-
able countryman Lieutenant M. (who was pursuing
his journey towards St. Malo) and set our faces to-
wards ViRE. The day, for the season of the year,
turned out to be gloomy and cold beyond measure :
^nd the wind (to the east) was directly in our faces*

420

GRANVILLE TO VIRE.

Nevertheless the voiid was one of the finest that we
had seen in France^ for breadth sind general soundness
of condition. It had all the consequence and evident*
utility of a llonian route ; and as it was perpetually
undulating, we had frequently some gratifying glimpses
of its broad and bold direction. The suiTonnding
country was of a quietly picturesque but fraitful as-
pect ; and had our seats been comfortable, or after the
fashion of those in our own country, our sensations
had been more agreeable. But in truth, instead of
springs, or any thing approximating to " tres propre,"
we had to encounter a hard planky susixnided at the
extremities, by a piece of leather, to the sides ; and as
the road was but too well bottomed, and the convey-
ance was open in friMit to the bitter blast of the east, I
can hardly describe (as I shall never forget) the misery
of this conveyance.

Fortunately our first stage was fllle Dieu. Here
we ordered a voiture c'uid post horses: but, the master
of the Poste lloyale, or rather of the inn, shook his
head — " Four les chevanx, vous en aurez des meilleurs;
mais, pour la voiture il n'y en a pas. Tenez, Messieurs ;
venez voir." We followed, with miserable forebodings —
and entering ashed, where stood an old tumble-down-
looking phaeton — *' la voih\,Messiein's, c'estlaseule que
je possMe dans ce moment" — exclaimed the landlord. It
had never stirred from its j)osition since the fall of last
year s leaf. It had been — within and without — the
roosting place for fowls and other of the feathered
tribe in the iurm yard ; and although literally covered
with the ( ridences of such long and undisturbed pos-
session, yet, as there was no appearance of rain, and as

ST. SEVER.

421

we discovered tlie wished for ressorts'' (or springs)
we compromised for the repuisiveness of the exterior,
asid declared our intention of taking it onward. Water,
brooms, brushes, and cloths, were quickly put in re-
quisition ; and two stately and well fed horses, which
threatened to fly away with our slender machine, being
&8tened on, we absolutely darted forward, at a round
rattling gallop, for St. Sever. Blessings wait upoA
the memory of that artisan who invented • • . springs I
We began to recover from our past miseries, and to
fismcy ourselves upon the Bath roady as we pursued
our route towards St. Sever. The postillion had the
perfect command of his horses, and we gallopped, or
trotted, or ambled, as his fancy— or rather bur wishes
directed. The approach to our halting-place was
rather imposing. What seemed to be a monastery, or
church, at St. Sever, had quite the appearance of
Moorish architecture; and indeed as we had occa-
sional glimpses of it through the trees, the effect was
exceedingly picturesque. This posting town is in truth
very delightfully situated. While the horses were
being changed, we made our way for the monastery ;
which we found to be in a state rather of dilapidation
than of ruin. It had, indeed, a wretched aspect. I en-
tered the chapel, and saw lying, transversely upon a
desk, to the left — a very clean, large paper, and uncut
copy of the folio Rouen Missal of 1759. I had no
doubt but that a few francs would have made me the
possessor of it ; but surely this would have been called
little short of an act of mitigated sacrilege ! Every
thing about this deserted and decaying spot had a
melancholy appearance : but the surrounding country

422

GRANVILLE TO VIRE.

was rich^ wooded^ and pictui-esque. In former days of
prosperity — such as St. Sever had seen before the Re^
▼olution — there had been gaiety, abundance, and hap-
piness. It is now a perfect contrast to its pristine state.

On returning to the " Poste Royale"^ we found tWD
fresh lusty horses to our voiture — but the postitlira
had sent a boy into the field to catch a third. Where^
fore was this? The tarif exacted it. A third hone

r6ciproquement pour Tann^e" — parce qu'il faut tra
verser une grande montagne avant qu'on pent arriver
liVire'' — was the explanatory reply. It seemed per^*
fectly ridiculous, as our vehicle was of such slendo*
dimensions and weight. However, we were forced to
yield. To scold the post-boy was equally absurd and
unavailing ; parce que le tarif Texigea." But the

montagne" was doubtless a reason for this addi-
tional horse : and we began to imagine that something
magnificently picturesque might be in store, for us.
The three horses were put a-breast — and oflF we
started with a phaeton-like velocity ! Certainly no-
thing could have a more ridiculous appearance than
our pigmy voiture thus conveyed by three animals —
strong enough to have drawn the diligence. We were
not long in reaching this " huge mountain," which
provoked our unqualified laughter — from its insignifi-
cant size — and upon the top of which stands the town
of ViRE. It had been a Jair-day ; and groups of men
and women, returning from the town, in their blue
and crimson dresses, cheered somewhat the general
gloom of the day, and lighted up the featui*es of the
landscape. The nearer we approached, the more nu-
merous and incessant were these groups.

VIBE.

423

' Vire is a sort of Rouen in miniature — if bustle and
population be only considered. In architectural com-
parison, it is miserably feeble and inferior. The houses
are genei*ally built of granite, and look extremely
sombre in consequence. The old castle is yet inter-
esting and commanding. But of this presently. We
drove to the Cheval BktnCj' and bespoke, as usual, a
late dinner and beds. Our first visit was to the castle ;
but it is right that you should know, before hand, that
the town ctf Vire, which contains a peculation of about
ten thousand souls, stands upon a commanding emi-
nence, in the midst of a very beautiful and picturesque
country called the Socage. This country was, in
former times, as fruitful in civil wars, horrors, and de-
vastations, as the more celebrated Socage of the
southern part of France, during the late Revolution. In
shorty the Socage of Normandy was the scene of blood-
shed during the Calvinistic or Hugonot persecution.
It was in the vicinity of this town, in the parts through
which we have travelled — from Caen hitherwards —
that the hills and the dales rang with the feats of
arms displayed in the alternate discomfiture and sue*

cess of COLIGNY, CONDB, MONTGOMERY, UUd Ma-
TIONON.*

* An epitomifled account of these civil commotions will be found in
the Histoire MiUtcttre des Bocains, par M. Richabd Sequin j d Fire,
1816 : 12mo. of which work^ and of its author^ some notice will be
taken in the following pages. Meanwhile^ consult page 399, ante.
Amoi^ the MSS. in the Royal Library at Paris^ there are three
Iblios (to be distinctly noticed in the second volume of this work)
oontaining various excerpts relating to the town of Vire. In the

434

TIRE.

But for the castle. It is situated at the extremity
of an open space, terminated by a portion of the bou-
levards ; having, in the foreground, the public libraiy
to the left, and a sort of municipal hall to the right :
neither of them objects of much architectural conse-
quence. Still nearer in the foreground, is a fountain ;
whither men, women, and cluldren — but chiefly the
second class, in the character of blanchigseuBet^
regularly resort for water; as its bason <iB lunially
overflowing. It was in a lucky moment that 1^.
Lewis paid a visit to this spot; which his taidy
pencil transmitted to his sketch-book in a mannor ttto
beautiful and faithful not to be followed up by a fidiflii-
ed design This design is enclosed for your . . . nn-
qualified admiration I * But much as you love tfrt,^
and much as you will be gratified by such a delightful
specimen of it, I am persuaded you would be iQcli^i||^

third of these nu. volumes^ (numberad 1089 or littdj) it^d«r the title
of " Arme$ qui wnt H VEglue porwrnaU dM Vire, .
there is an account of the town being taken by the
gomery^ in the year 1568> about five o'clock in the
assailants are caUed an army de la pr^tendue noixi^e i
quelez auroient pill^ et rauagi6 VEglise^ rompu, froiss^^ cassi et mfa^
les vitres^ greillez, huis et fenetres, chaires^ bancs^ siegez> coffirez* sa-
crairez^ autelz^ imagez/' &c. This account is followed by two laige,
and not unskilfully executed drawings, of two feunilies^ kneeling,
which were in the stained glass windows of the principal church.

* See the Opposite Plate.' The woman with a bucket before her,
turning round to the left^ stood on purpose to be drawn 3 and seemed
Tastly pleased by the compliment which she considered to be thus
paid her. The castle shews the reverse of that side which i^ipears in
the opposite vignette.

VIRE.

to wold me if I do not give yon a nearer introduction
to the old castle. Accordingly you have here a most
exquisite little morceau of its kind. It is taken from
behind the portion which you observe in the annexed
representation ; and was minutely finished^ upon the
spot.

Frequently^ in the act of executing it^ several young
men^ apparently students at the CoU^^ would sur-
round Mr. L. with exclamations and compliments upon
the minute delicacy and apparent difficulty of the un-
dertaking As to the antiquity of the castle^ I should
apprehend it to be of the twelfth century. Probably
of a more ancient date ; though this is pretty well.
1

426

VIRE:

Its foundation is a solid rock. Indeed the whole ke^
is of the same kind of stone. Hie Chewd BUjouP-^
the name of the hotel at which we reside — should be
rather called the Cheval Noir ;** for a more dark,
dingy, and even dirty residence, for a traveller of any
nasal or ocular sensibility, can be rarely visited. Our
bed room, where we drink tea, is hung with tapestry;
which, for aught I know to the contrary, may repre-
sent the daring exploits of Montgomery and M atig-
NON but which is so begrimed with filth that there is
no decyphering the subjects worked upon it. On leav-
ing the inn — and making your way to the top of the
street — ^you turn to the left ; but on looking down,
again to the left, you observe, below you, the great high
road leading to Caen, which has a noble appearance.
Indeed, the manner in which this part of Normandy is
intersected with the routes royales^^ cannot feul to
strike a stranger ; especially as these roads run over
hill and dale, amidst meadows, and orchards, equally
abundant in their respective harvests. The immediate
vicinity of the town is remarkable as well for pic-
turesque objects of scenery as for a high state of culti-
vation ; and a stroll upon the heights, in whatever
part visited, will not fail to repay you for the certain
disappointment to be experienced within the streets
of the town. Portions of the scenery, from these
heights, are not unlike those in Derbyshire, about
Matlock. There is plenty of rock, of shrubs, and of
fern ; while another Derwent, less turbid and muddy,
meanders below. Thus much for a genei*al, but hasty

* Sec page 399, ante.

VIRE. 427

sketch the town of Vire. My next shall g^ve you some
detail of the interior of a few of the houses, of which
I may be said to have hitherto only contemplated the
roofs.

VOL. I.

428

LETTER XIX.

BIBLIOGRAPHY. MONSIEUR ADAM. MONSIEUR DE LA-
RENAUDIERE. OLIVIER BASSELIN. M. SEGUIN. THE
PUBLIC LIBRARY.

It is a sad rainy day ; and having no temptation
to stir abroad, I have shut myself up by the side of a
huge wood fire — (surrounded by the dingy tapestry, of
which my last letter did not make very honourable men-
tion)— in a thoroughly communicative mood, to make
you acquainted with all that has passed since my pre-
vious despatch. SE^Oldlfl and the S&i&ttOtnattta be the
cluef " burden of my present song !" You may re-
member, in my account of the public library at Caen,*
that some mention was made of a certain Olivier
Basselin — ^whom I designated as the drunken Bar-
NABY of Normandy ? Well, my friend — I have been
at length made happy, and comforted in the extreme,
by the possession of a copy of the Faudevires of that
said Olivier Basselin — and from the hands, too, of one
of his principal editors ! . . Monsieur Lanon de la Re-
NAUDfERE, Avocat, ct Mairc, de Tallevende-le-Petit.
This copy I intend (as indeed I told the donor) for the
beloved library at Althorp. But let me tell my tale
my own way.

Hard by the hotel of the Cheval Blanc, (the best,

• See page 3S7# ante.

VIRE.

429

bad as it is — and indeed the only one in the town)
lives a printer of the name of Adam. He is the prin-
cipal, and the most respectable of his brethren in the
same craft. After discoursing npon sundry desultory
topics — and particularly examining the hooks of Edu-
catiofiy among which I was both surprised and pleased
to find the Distichs of Muretus* — I expressed my re-

• Les Disiiques de Muret, traduits en vers Eranfait, par Aug. A,
Se vend k Vire^ chez Adam, imprimeur-lib. An. I8O9. The reader
may not be displeased to have a specimen of the manner of rendering
these distichs into French verse :

Dum tener es, Murbtb, avidis hsc aoribuB hanri :
Nec memori mod6 conde animo, sed et ezprime flM^tifl.

Inprimis yenerare Denm ; venerare parentes :
Et quos ipsa loco tibi dat natura parentum.

Mentiri noli. Nunquiun meodada protont.
Si qmd peccaris, venia est tibi prompta fieitenti.

Disce libens. Quid dulcius est quiun discere multa !
Discentem comitantur opes, comitantur honores.

Si quis te objurget, mal^ cbm quid feceris, flli
Oratiam babe, et ne iterbm queat objurgare cavet.

Ne temer^ banc credas tibi qui blanditnr amicum.
Peccantem puenun quisqius non corrigit, odit.

Jeune encore^ 6 man Fik ! pour itre homme de bien,
Ecoute, et dam ton ccmr grave cet eniretien.

480

VIRE.

gret at having travelled through bo many towns of
Normandy without meeting with one single copy of
the Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin for sale. It is
not very surprising^ Sir, since it is a privately printed
book, and was never intended for sale. The impres-
sion too is very limited. You know, Sir^ that the
book was published here — and — ^ I started backwards,
just one step and " no more." " Then I begin to be
confident about obtaining it** — replied I. Gently,
Sir ; — ** resumed Monsieur Adam — it is not to be
bought, even here. But do you know no one . . . ?"
" Not a creature." " Well, Sir, take courage. You
are an Englishman ; and one of its principal editors —
a very gallant Bibliomane — ^who is a great collector
and lover of the literature of your country — (here I
picked up courage and gaiety of heart) Uves in this

Sert, honore le Dieu gut cria tmu let itres ;
Soii fiU respectueuM, ioit docile i tei maUret,

Craifu de mentir: t<mJour$ (?e%t en vain que Pan ment;
En awHtant ses torts, on est presqi^ innocent,

Qt^il est beau d'itre tmtruit I Aime, acquiert la science i
Assez d'honneurs, de biens seront ta recompense.

I>un reproche obligeant, au Ueu d^kte C09^,
Rends grAce it PamitU, mais n'en nUrite plus.

Crains la louange : il est Pennemi de Pe^fHnee
Celui qui pour sea torts plaque de timMgenee.

VIRE.

431

town. He is President of the Tribunal. Go to him."
Seeing me hesitate, in consequence of not having a
letter of introduction — " Ce n*est rien (said he)
allez tout-droit. II aime vos compatriotes ; et soyez
persuade d*un accueil le plus favorable." Methought
Monsieur Adam spake more eloquently than I had yet
heard a Norman speak.

In two seconds I quitted his shop, (promising to re-
turn with an account of my reception) and five mi-
nutes brought me into the presence of Monsieur Lanon
de la Renaudiere, President du Tribunal, &c. My
name is a most unfortunate one (as I have experienced
more than once) for Gallic ears. It is made caco-
phony itself. Monsieur Le President repeated it —
and I repeated it — " Enfin, donnez vous la peine de
r^crire" — said the Bibliomane, very politely. I had
no sooner got through the half of the final n, than he
shouted aloud, — "Est-ce done vous qui 6tes . . ?!
naming certain bibliographical performances which
need not be here mentioned. I never heard so rapid
an utterance. On bowing, and replying in the affir-
mative— it is not possible for me to convey to you a
notion of the warmth, cordiality, and joyousness of
heart, that marked the reception which this gentle-
man instantly and in consequence gave me: and I
will frankly own that I was as much abashed" as
ever our ancient friend Caxton had been — ^in the pre-
sence of his patroness the Duchess of Burgundy. I fol-
lowed my new bibliomaniacal acquaintance rapidly
up stairs ; and witnessed, with extreme pleasure, a few
bundles of books (some of them English) lying upon
the window seats of the first landing-place: much after

432 VIRE.

the fashion followed in a certain long, rambling, and
antique residence not quite three quarters of a mik
from the towers of Westminster Abbey.

We gained the first floor ; when mine host tamed
the keys of the doors of two contiguous rooms, and
exclaimed, Voila ma Bibliothkque ! Theair of con-
scious triumph with which these words were uttered,
delighted me infinitely ; but my delight was much in-
creased on a leisurely survey of one of the prettiest,
most useful, and commendable collections of books,
chiefly in the department of the Belles-Liettres, which
I had ever witnessed. Monsieur La Renaudiere has a
library of about 9000 volumes, of which eight hundred
are English. But the owner is especially fond of poe-
tical archceology ; in other words, of collecting every
work which displays the progress of French and Eng-
lish poetry in the middle and immediately following
ages ; and talks of Trouveurs and Troubadours with an
enthusiasm approaching toextacy. Meanwhile he points
his finger to our Warton, Ellis, Ritson, and Southey ;
tells you how dearly he loves them ; but yet leads you
to conclude that he rather prefers Le Grandy Ginguene
Sismondiy and Renouard.* Of the venerable living
oracle in these matters, the Abb£ de la Rue, he said he
considered him as un peu trop syst^matique.'* In
short, M. La Renaudiere has almost a complete critical
collection, in our tongue, upon the subject of old poe-
try ; and was most anxious and inquisitive about the
present state of cultivation of that branch of literature

* A member of the Institute ; and not the bibliographical bookseller
of the same name.

VIRE.

433

in England : adding, that he himself meditated a work
npon the French poetry of the xiith and XTiith cen-
turies. He said he thought his library might be worth
about 25,000 francs : nor did I consider such a valu-
ation overcharged. He talks rapidly, earnestly, and
incessantly ; but he talks well : and spoke of the
renown of a certain library in St. James's Place^ in a
manner which could not fail to quicken the pulse and
warm the blood of its historian. We concluded an
interview of nearly two hours by his compliance with
my wishes to dine with me on the following day : al-
though he was quite urgent in bargaining for the pre-
vious measure of my tasting his pdtage and vol au
vent. But the shortness and constant occupation of
my time would not allow me to accede to it. M.
La Renaudiere then went to a cabinet-like cupboard,
drew forth an uncut copy, stitched in blue spotted
paper, of his beloved Vaudevires by Olivier Bassk-
lin:* and presenting it to me, added " Conservez

* beloved Vaudevires by Olivier Basselin.] — ^The present seems to
be the proper place to give the reader some account of this once fa-
mous Bacchanalian poet. It is not often that France rests her preten-
sion^ to poetical celebrity upon such claims. Love> romantic adven-
tures^ gaiety of heart and of disposition form the chief materials of her
minor poems : but we have here before us^ in the person and produc-
tions of Olivieb Basselin^ a rival to Anacreon of old ; to our own
Richard Braitbwait^ Vincent Bourne^ and Thomas Moore. As
this volume is perhaps the only one which has travelled into England,
the reader may be prepared to receive an account of its contents
with the greater readiness and satisfoction. Firsts then^ of the life
and occupations of Olivier Basselin ; which, as Goujet has entirely
passed over all notice of him, we can gather only from the editors of
the present edition of his works. Basselin appears to have been a

434

VIRE.

le, pour Tamour de moi/' You may be assured that
I received such a present in the most gracious man-
ner I was capable of— but instantly and honestly

Firois ; in other words^ an inhabitant of the town of Vire. But he
had a strange propensity to rusticating, and preferred the immediate
▼idnity of Vire— its quiet little valleys, running streams, and rocky
recesses — to a more open and more distant residence. In such
places, therefore, he carried with him his flasks of cider and his
flagons of wine. Thither he resorted with his boon and meiry
con^Nmions,'* and there he poured forth his ardent and unpremeditated
strains. These " strains*' all savoured of the jovial propensities of
their author : it being very rarely that tenderness of sentiment, whether
connected with friendship or love, is admitted into his compositions.
He was the thorough-bred Anacreon of the close of the fifteenth
century.

The town of Vire, as the reader may have already had intimation, is
the chief town of that department, of Normandy called the Bocage :
and in this department few places have been, of old, more celebrated
than the Vaux de Vire; on account of the number of manufoctories
which have existed there from time inmiemorial. It derives its name
finom two principal valleys, in the form of a T, of which the base (if it
may be so called — " jambage*') rests upon the Place du Chateau de
Vire, It is sufficiently contiguous to the town to be considered among
the fauxbourgs. The rivers Fire and Virene, which unite at the bridge
of Vaux, run somewhat rapidly through the valleys. These rivers are
flanked by manufactories of paper and cloth, which, from the xvth
century, have been distinguished for their prosperous condition. In-
deed, Babselin himself was a sort of doth manufacturer. In thb
valley he passed his lifo in fulling his cloths, and " in composing
those gay and delightful songs which are contained in the volume
under consideration." Discours Prilinunaire, p. 17, &c. Olivier
Basselin is the parent of the title Vaudevire — which has since
been corrupted into Vaudeville. From the observation at page 16,
Basselin appears to have been also the Fathee of Bacchanalian Po-
BTEY in France. He frequented public festivals: and was a welcome
guest at the tables of the rich— where the Vaudevire was in such re-

VIRE.

436

added — permettez qn'il soit d6pos^ dans la bibli-
oth^ue de Milord S . . . ? " C'est la mime chose** —

quest, that it is supposed to have superseded the " Conte, or Fabliau,
or the Chanson d* Amour."* p. xviij :

Sur ce point-1^ soyez tranquille :

Nos neveux, j'en suis bien certain,

Se souTiendront de Basse lin,

Perejoyeux du Faudeville : p. xxiij.

Basselin is supposed to have died at the conclusion of the fifteenth
century. His first editor was Jean le Houx, a poet and advocate of
Vire, who was bom about the middle of the following centuiy. Le
Houx was also an imitator of the Vaudevires of Basselin, and in short
preferred poetry to his profession. The editors of the present volume
have favoured us with one of Le Houx*s " Vaudevire pour le jour
de la Ste. Yves, ffete des Avocats." 1 shall select the third and fourth
stanzas as specimens of the imitator's muse :

Que les auares Aduocats
Gaignent ^ se rompre la teste,
Pourvft que je sois de leur feste,
Certes ne me souciray pas
De leur procez ni dc leur sacs.

MiEux vaut vider et assaillir
Un pot qu'un procez difficile ;
Au moins cela m'est plus utile.
Car les procez me font vieillir^
Le bon vin me fait raieunir.

Le Houx*s commendation of Basselin b thus expressed :

De ce Virois conservons la mdmoire,
A tout le moins k la table en beuvant ;
Lequel ne beut jamais en rechignant,
£t qui nous fait si joyeuscment boire-

* The host, at these public and private festivals, usually called upon some
one to recite or sing a song, chiefly of an amatory or chivalrous character

436

VIRE.

rejoined he ; and giving me the address of the public
librarian, we separated in the most cordial manner till
the morrow.

Une bonne boisson

Prise avec marisson

Pkr un satunuen,

Ne lui hit point de bien.
Mu8 le vin honor^ d'un gentil Vaodevire,
N'aporte que 8ant^ en ne beuvant du pire.

The poems of fiasselin were printed at least twice by Le Hoax— be-
fore the year 1 600 but he took a few liberties with the style in adapt-
ing it to his own times. Le Houx was persecuted by the clergy for
the supposed licentiousness of these poems^ and could only obtain ab-
solution by a journey to Rome^ and by the suppression of his own edi-
torial labours. The first edition is now wholly unknown; and only
two copies of the second, or last, should seem to have been known to
the editors of the reprint under consideration. The title of that edi-
tion is as follows : Le Litre des Chants nouveaux de Vaudevire, par
ordre alphaheiique, corrigi et augment^ outre Iafr4c4dente impression; it
Fire, chez Jean de Cesne, Imprtmeur** It is without date. Le Houx
died in 1616, and this impression is supposed to have been published
before his death. The text of this edition, together with a purer one
found in an octavo MS. written in the black letter, and containing
the poetry both of Basselin and Le Houx — (probably of the time of
the latter) formed the basis of that of the present impression. This
MS. belonged to a medical gentleman, of the name of Poliniere. The
corruptions in orthography have been corrected from the models af-
forded by the older compositions of Charles d^OrUans and Alain Char-
tier* But it should doubtless appear that the curators of the present

and this custom prevailed more particularly in Normandy than in other parts
of France :

Usuge est en Normandie,
Que qui hebergiez est qu'il die
\ Fable ou Chanson it son oste.

See the authorities dted at page xv, of this Discours prdliminaire.

VIKE.

437

I pdsted back to Monsieur Adam^ the printer and
bookseller, and held aloft my blue-covered copy of

edition were ignorant of the genuine, and somewhat elegant MS.
written also in the gothic letter, which is incidentally noticed at page
357^ ante, as in the possession of M. Pluquet.

We now come, therefore, immediately to the volume before us, and
to a consideration of the character of its contents. It is of a handsome
form, approaching the size of a royal octavo. The half title is thus :

Les Vaudevires par OUvier Bastelin" The fiill title, on the follow-
ing leaf, is — " Les Vaudevires, Podsies du Ibme Steele, par Olivier
Basselin, avec tin Discours sur sa Vie, et des Notes pour Vejcplication
de quelques anciens mots. Vire, 1811.** On the reverse of this title-
page we learn the names of the gentlemen, inhabitants of Vire — ten in
number—'' by whose care and at whose expense the edition was put
forth.** The preliminary discourse, with its notes, occupiesthe firstxxxvi
pages. The text of the poet begins with this prefix : " Les Chants du
Vaudevire par Olivier Basselin The text, composed ofxxvi Vaude-
vires, occupies 190 pages : the notes conclude the volume at page 131.
At the bottom of this last page we read the imprint thus : " De Vlm^
primerie de F, Le Court, d. Avranches." For the honour of the place,
and of the memory of its old poetical inhabitant, the book should have
been printed as well as published at Vire. There is nothing so very
skilful or splendid in its typographical execution, as should have
caused Monsieur Adam to have despaired. However, as the produc-
tion of a provincial press, it is very creditably executed.

I now proceed to submit a few specimens of the muse of this Fa-
ther OF Bacchanalian Poetry in France 3 and must necessarily begin
with a select few of those that are chiefly of a bacchanalian quality.

VAUDEVIRE IL

Atant le doz au feu et le ventre k la table,
Estant parmi les pots pleins de via delectable,

Ainsi comme ung poulet
Je ne me laisseray morir de la pepie.
Quant en debyroyc avoi la face cramoisie

Et le nez violet.

438

VIRE.

the Vaudemres as on unquestionable proof of the suc-
cessful result of my visit to Monsieur La Renaudiere.

Quant mon nez deyendra de couleur rouge on perse,
Porteray lea couleurB que ch^t ma maitresse.

Le vin rent le teint beau.
Vault-il pas mieulx ayoir la couleur rouge et yive,
Riche de beaulx rubis, que si pasle et ch^ve

Ainsi quhmg beuyeur d'ean.*

VAUDEVmE XXIX.

Jb ne treuye en ma mededne
Simple qui soit plus excellent,
Que la noble plante de rigne
IVoii le bon vin dairet {HToyient. •

1l n'y a chez I'Apothicaire
De drogue que je prize mieulx.
Que ce bon vin qui me faict faire
Le sang bon et Pesprit joyeulx.

Qu'oN ne m'apporte point de casse,
Et qu'on ne courre au Medecin :
De Tin qu'on remplisse ma tasse,
Qm me vouldra rendre bien sain.

En mon r6cip^ qu'on ordonne
Que je boind vin d'0rl6ans ^
La recepte me sera bonne,
Les Mededns honnestes gens.

Mais s'ils m'ordonnent de I'eau doulce,
Ou la tisanne simplement,

* The opening of the foUomng and third Vaudevire begins thus epigram-
matically :

Adam, c'est chose tr^ notolre
Ne nous eust mis en tel dangier,
Se au lieu du fatal mangier
U se fust plustost mis k boire.

VIRE.

439

N'est-ce pas done. Monsieur, (replied be) que je voiis
ai bien conseili^ ? Ma foi, vous avez bien jou£ votre
r61e."

Sont gens qni veulent tout de course
Me (aire morir povrement.

Jb ne vueil ni laict ni fruictaige ;
De ce je ne suys point friant.
Mais je vendroye mon h^itage
Pour avoir de ce vin friant.

O que c'est dure d^partie
De ma bouche et de ce bon vin
A tons ceulx-1^ je porte envie
Qui ont encor le verre plein.

The greater part of the Xlth Vaudevire has some fair good broad
humour about it :

VAUDEVIRE XL

Certes hoc vinum est bonus :
Du maulvais latin ne nous chaille,
Se bien congru n'estoit ce jus,
Le tout ne vauldroit rien que vaille.
Escolier j'appris que bon vin
Aide bien au maulvais latin.

Cestb sentence praticquant,
De latin je n'en appris gakre ;
Y pensant estre asscz s^avant,
Puisque bon vin aimoye h boire.
Lorsque maulvais m on a beu,
Latin n'est bon, fust-il congru

Fy du latin, parlous fran^ois,
Je m'y recongnois davantiuge.
Je vueil boire une bonne fois.
Car voicy ung mabtre breuvaige :
Certes se j'en beuvoye soubvent,
Je deviendroye fort ^oquent.

440

VIRE.

Ce*9t un livre de la plii8*giwide raret^, mdmechez
noas.** Leaving the precious cargo with him, and

The manner of thanking his jolly host, and of getting up from a
well furnished table^ is thus humorously expressed :

VAUDEVIRE Xn.

C7bst assez, troupe honorable,
De ces gentils chants Virois ;
n fault se lever de table,
Le reste en une aultre fois ;

Car peut-estre

Quele maistre
Qm nous assemble edans

N'oze dire

Le martire
£t mal que lid font les dents :
Souvent incommodit^
Provient d'avoir trop chants.

Mais il est trop Tdontaire
Poor avoir le cneur marry
IVavoir veu la bonne chi^
Que nous avons fedct chez luy.

Monsieur I'hoste,

Voyez, j'oste
Mon bonnet honnestement.

On me prie

Que je die
Qu'on Tous rent graces humblement
Mais si le vin reste au pot,
Sommes encor de Pdcot

Faictbs-bn layer la bouche
A quelques uns d'entre nous,
Avant qu'ung varlet y touche,
Puisque tout d^nd de tous.

Je ne cure,

Je Tous Jure,

VIRE.

441

telling liim that I purposed immediately visiting the
public library, he seemed astonished at my eagerness

Jamais ma bouche aultrement

Nostre hoetesse,

Je Yous lusse
Mille mercis en payement ;
Cecy seroit esventd,
J'en boy votre santd.

J' AT ouy-dire it ma grand-m^,
Tonsioura des vieulx on i^prent.
Que de la goutte demi^
La bonne chiere ddpent

Bonne femme.

Que ton ame
Piusse estre au ciel en repos !

J'ay envie.

Si j'ay vie,
D'ensuibvre bien tes propos ;
Quant sur le bon vin je suls,
J'en laisse moins que je puis.

A further variety of Bassclin*s metre is discoverable in his KXIId.
Vaudevire, thus :

VAUDEVIRE XXIL

He! qu'avons-nous affaire
Du Turc ny du Sophy,

Don don.
Pourveu que j'aye k boire,
Oes grandeurs je dis fy,
Don don.
Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon :
Hoc acuii ingenium.

Qui songe en vin ou vigne.
Est ung prdsaige beureux,
Don don.

442

VIRE.

about books — and asked me if I had ever published any
thing bibliogrcq^hicalP ^^Car enfin^ Monsieur, la plus-

Le vin k qui redugne

Rent le cneiir tout joyeuz,
Don don.
Trincque, Seigneur, le Tin est bon :
Hoc acuU ing^nhm.

Meschaxt est qui te broiuUe,
Je parle aux tavernien,

Don don.
Le breuyaige k grenouille
Ne doibt estre aux celHen,
Don don.
Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon :
Hoc acuU ingenium.

Que ce vin on ne coiq[^,
Ain^ois qu'on b^nre net,

Don don.
Je pry toute la trouppe
De vuider le godet,
Don don.
Trincque, Seigneur, le Tin est bon :
Hoc acttit ingenium*

1 have observed that the poetry of Basselin is almost wholly devoted
to the celebration of the physical effects of wine upon the body and
animal spirits and that the gentler emotions of the tender passion
are rarely described in his numbers. In consequence he has not in-
voked the Goddess of Beauty to associate with the God of Wine : to

" Drop from her myrtle one leaf in his bowl
or, when he does venture to introduce the society of a female, it is
done after the following fashion — which discovers however an extreme
facility and melody of rhythm. The burden of the song seems wonder-
fully accordant with a Bacchanalian note.

VAVDEVIRE XIX.

En ung jardin d'ombraige tout convert,
Au chaud du jour, ay treuv^ Madalaine,

VIRR

443

part des Firois ne savent rien de la literature an-
gloise** — concluded he . . . but I had just witnessed a

Qui pr^ le pi^ d'mig sicomorre yert
Donnoit au bort d'une claire fontune ;
Son lit estoit de thin et maijolaine.
Son tetin frais n'estoit pas bien cach^ :

lyamour touch^
Poor contempler sa beaut^ souvenune
Incontinent je m'en suys approch^*

Sua, 8US, qa'on se resveille,

Voicy vin excellent

Qui feuct lever Poreille ;

n fuct mol qui n'en prent

Jb n'eus pouvoir, si belle la voyant,
De m'abfltenir de baizotter sa bouche ;
Si bien qu'enfin la belle e'esveillant*
Me regardant avec ung oeil flEurouche,
Me dit ces mots : Biberon, ne me touche,
Tu n'est pas digne avecq moy d'esprouver

Le jeu d'amer :
Belle fillette h son aize ne couche
Avecq celuy qiu ne fiedct qu'yvrongner.

Sus, BUS, qu'on se resveille,

Voicy vin excellent

Qui fiEuct lever Poreille ;

II fiuct mol qui n'en prent.

Jb lay respons : Ce n'est pas desbonneur
D'amer le vin, une choze si bonne :
Vostre bel oeil entretient en chaleur,
Et le vin en santd, ma personne.
Poor vous amer, foult-il que j'abandonne
Le soing qu'on doibt avoir de sa sant^ ?

Fy de Beauty
Qui son amant de desplaisir guerdonne,
Au lieu de bien qu'il avoit mdrit^

Sus, sus, qu'on se resveille,

Voicy vin excellent

Qui fiuct lever Poreille ;

n fiuct mol qui n'en prent.
VOL. I. D d

444

VtBE.

s]^lendid exception to this sweeping clause of eensnre.
1 then sought the residence of the Abb6 Du Mbft-

J'atmb bien mienlx I'omhre d'ong cabaret

£t da beuchon de taverne yineuse^

Que cil qui est en xmg bean jardinet

La Belle alon me respond despiteoie ;

Tu ne m'es bon, cherefae one aaltie amoureuae.

Poisque par toy j'ay perdn mes amonrs,

Tousiours, tonBionn»
Contre Tamour et la soif rigooreusey
Que sois, bon Tin, arm6 de ton seoonra.

Su8, 8U8, qnon se resveille,

Voicy Tin Excellent

Qui feict lever Toreille ;

n fiiict mol qui n'en prent. p. 33.

There is no space for fuiiher extracts 3 and possibly too much already
may be supposed to have been devoted to the poetry of Basselin. Bat
this is a volume in every respect interesting — ^both to the literary aoti-
quary and to the Book-Collector. It remains therefore only to add-r
according to the very minute and specific note, acoompftnying the
copy of it presented to me by Monsieur Lanon de La Renaudiere^ one
of the Editors — and who now meditates a new and improved as well
as enlarged edition of it — that^ of this privately circulated impression,
ONLY ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES wcFc printed } of which uumber
ten were upon red coloured paper, of the manufacture of Vire— ten
upon fine vellum paper— ten upon vellum paper in quarto— ten upon
common paper in quarto. In his projected edition, M. La Renaudiere
purposes to separate the poetry of Basselin from that of Le Houx—
which have been somewhat mingled in the volume before us : as well
as to write notes upon local customs, events, and places mentioned or
alluded toby Basselin, &c. It is proper also to add, that this gentleman
is the author of the article Basselin in the Biograpfue UnwerteUe-^
which work indeed he is a regular contributor. The copy under con-
sideration has been recently bound by C. Lewis, in red morocco binding,
with every appropriate garniture in the character of gilt ornaments : — a
compliment due to the liberality of apiiit, and kindness of disposition,
of its enthusiastic donor.

VIRE.

445

'TVEUX, the public librarian. That gentleman was
ftom bome, on a dinner party. I obtained information
of the place where he might be found ; and considering
two o'clock to be rather too early an hour (even in
France) to disturb a gentleman during the exercise
of so important a function, I strolled in the neigh-
bourhood of the street, where he was regaling, for a
fhn hour and half : when, at the expiration of that
time, I ventured to knock at the door of a very res^
pectable mansion, and to enquire for the bibliogra-
phical Abb6. ^ He is here. Sir, and has just done
dinner. May I give him your name I am a stran-
ger : an Englishman ; who, on the recommendation
of Monsieur La Renaudiere, wishes to see the public
library. But I will call again in about an hour."
^^y no means : by no means : the Abb6 will see you
•immediately." And forthwith appeared a very comely,
tall, and respectable-looking gentleman, with his hair
en pldn costume, both as to form and powder. Indeed
I bad rarely before witnessed so prepossessing a figure.
His salutation^^d address were most gracious and

but to accompany him to the place which I wished
to visit. Without even returning to his friends, he
-took his hat, gave me the precedence on quitting the
bouse — and in one minute, to my surprise, I found
* myself in the street with the Abb^ de Mortueux, in
tbe high way to the Public Library. In our way
tiiither our discourse was constant and unrestrained.
^You appear here. Monsieur TAbb^, to be partial
to literature; ..but allow me first to congratulate
you on the beautiful environs of your town." For

wlaning; an(

me that I had nothing to do

446

VIRE.

literature in general, we are pretty well disposed. In
regard to the beauties of the immediate neighbourhood
of Vire, we should be unworthy inhabitants indeed, if
we were not sensible of them.*' In five minutes we
reached the Library.

The shutters of the room were fastened, but the wor-
thy Abb£ opened them in a trice ; when I saw, for the
first time in Normandy, what appeared to be a genuine,
old, unmutilated, unpillaged library. The room couM
be scarcely more than twenty-two feet square.* I
went instantly to work, with eyes and hands, in the
ardent hope, and almost full persuasion, of finding
something in the shape of a good old Greek or Roman
Classic, or French Chronicle, or Romance. But, alas,
I looked, and handled the tomes in vain ! The histoiy
of the library is this : — ^The founder was a Monsieur
PicHON : who, on being taken prisoner by the Eng-
lish, at the capture of Louisburg in 1758, resided a
long time in England under the name of Tyrrbl, and
lived in circumstances of respectability and even of opu-
lence. There — whether on the dispeinsion of the libra-
ries of our Meads, Foulkes*, and RaiMtasons, I know
not — he made his collection ; took his books over with
him to Jersey, where he died in 1780 : and bequeathed
them, about 3000 in number, to his native town of Vire.
M. du Mortueux, who gave me these particulars, has
drawn up a little memorial about him. His portrait,
executed by an English artist, (whilst he lived among
us) adorns the library ; with which I hope it will go
down to a remote and grateful posterity. The colour-

* It forms the building to the ieft> in the middle ground, in the
▼iewof theFoant«iD>&c. See page 4S4> ante.'

VIRE.

447

ingof this portrmt is faded: but it is evident that
Monsieur Pichon had an expressive and sensible phy-
siognomy. Mr. Lewis could not do every thing ; or I
would have carried a transcript of it^ by his faithful
pencil^ with me to Paris — to be executed by a French
burin.

Wonderful to relate, this collection of books was un-
touched during the Revolution ; while the neighbour-
ing library of the Cordeliers was ransacked without
mercy. But I regret to say that the books in the cup-
boards are getting sadly damp. Do not expect any
thing very marvellous in the details of this collection ;
The old-fashioned library doors, of wood, are quite in
character with what they protect. Among the earlier
printed books, I saw a very bad copy of Sweynheym
and Pannartz's edition of the De Civitate Dei of St.
Austin, of the date of 1470 ; and a large folio of 6e-
ring*s impression of the Sermons of Thomas de Utino
printed in the xviith year of the reign of Louis XI :
or about the year 147L This latter was rather a fine
copy. A little black-letter Latin Bible by Froben, of
the date of 1495, rather tempted me ; but I could not
resist asking, in a manner half serious and half jocose^
whether a napoleon would not secure me the posses-
ion of a piquant little volume of black-letter tracts,
printed by my old friend Guido Mercator?* The
Ahbi smiled : observing — mon ami, on fait voir les
livres ici : on les lit meme : mais on ne les vend pas.**
I felt the force of this pointed reply : and was re-
solved never again to ask an ecclesiastic to part with

* Some account of thiB printer^ together with a fac-simile of hia
device, may be seen in the BiUiographkal D€C€uneron, vol. ii. p. 33-6.

446

VIRE.

a black-letter volume^ even though it were printed by
^my old Mend Goido Mercator*" Seeing^ there wafe
very little more deserving of investigation, 1 enqnired
of my amiable guide about the Library of thb
Cordeliers,*" of which he had just made mention;
He told me that it consisted chiefly of canon and civil
law, and had been literally almost destroyed : that he
had contrived however to secure a great number of

rubbishing theological books/* (so he called them !)
which he sold for three sous a piece — and with the pro-
duce of which he bought many excellent works for the
library* I should like to have had the sifting of this

theological rubbish Peradventure an Olivet BiUe,
or a TyndaTs New Testament^ (in former times, when
theCalvinists got a temporary ascendancy) might have
found their way amidst the interminable rows of the
Latin vulgate impression. Or rather, I wished to per-
suade myself that this supposition was not a mere
delusion ; and accordingly rummaged, high and low,
in all directions . . . but to no purpose. It remained
therefore only to thank the Abb6 most heartily for his
patient endurance of my questions and searches, and
particularly to apologise for bringing him from his
surrounding friends. He told me, beginning with a
" soyez tranquille," that the matter was not worth
either a thought or a syllable ; and ere we quitted the
library, he bade me observe the written entries of the
numbers of students who came daily thither to I'ead.
There were generally (he told me) from fifteen to
twenty hard at it and I saw the names of not
fewer than ninety-two who aspired to the honour
and privilege of having access to the Bibliothbca

VIBE.

449

PiCHONiANA. There is certainly no evidence of a back-
wardness of disposition to obtain knowledge among
the students of the department of Calvados.

For the third time^ in the same day, I visited Monr
sieur Adam; to carry away, like a bibliomaniacal
Jason, the fleece I had secured. I saw there a grave^
stout gentleman — who saluted me on my entrance^
and who was introduced to me by Monsieur A. by the
name of Seguin. He had been waiting (he said) fuU
three quarters of an hour to see me, and concluded by
observing, that, although a man in business, he had
aspired to the honour of authorship. He had written,
in feet, two rather interesting — but wretchedly, and
incorrectly printed — duodecimo volumes, relating to
the Socage,* in the immediate vicinity of Vire ; and

♦ relating to the Socage.'] — ^The first publication is entitled EnoT
iur VHistoire de V Industrie du Bocage en G6iSral, et de la VUle de
Fhre sa capitate en particulier, 8(c" Par M. Richard Seouin. A
Vh-e, chez Adam, Imprimeur, an 1810^ ISmo. It is not improbable that
I may have been the only importer of this useful and crowdedly-
paged duodecimo volume 3 which presents us with so varied and ani-
mated a picture of the manners^ customs^ trades^ and occupations of
the Bocains and Virois^ that I am persuaded the following extracts
will be received rather with indulgence than censure.

Manufactories of Cloth and Papbb.
"La reunion dcs deux rivieres de Fire et de Vir^e, ainsi que de plu-
oeurs ruisseaux^ ont encore facility en cette ville Tdtablissement de
deux autres belles manufactures^ la draperie et la papeterie. La
Vir^e^ dont les eaux claires et limpides roulent sur un sable dork,
semble avoir ^t^ plac^e expr^s par la nature pour Templacement des
moulins k papier; car les bords de la Vire ^tant couverts de moulins k
fouler^ et lea eaux de cette riviere ^tant continuellement trouble par
la craase des d^^raia des draps et tirtaine cpi'on y foule en grande

460

VIBE.

' W1B8 himself the sole vender and distributer of his pub-
lications. On my expressing a wish to possess these

qaantit^^ elle ne serait gu^res propre pour la papeterie ; cependant il
8*7 en est ^tabli qaelques-unes depuis la grande inondation de Vire^ ar-
ibrie en 1782.

''Flusieurs moulins foulons ayant 6t6 entrain^ par les eaux, quelques
fiibricants de papier achet^rent les emplacexnens situ^ sous le ch&teau
de Vire, et y Mtirent plusieurs moulios qu*on y voiC. On en tnmve
aussi quelques-uns sur la petite riyi^re de Maisoncelles^ qui se jette
dans la Vire audessus de cette villej mais le plus grand nombre des
papeteries de Vire> et ks plus belles de tout le Bocage^ sont sur la
Vir^e. Au commencement du quatorzi^me si^cle^ le papier fiit in-
vent^ par un citadin de Padoue en Italic. Auparavant on ne fiaisait
usage que de parchemin. On ne commen^a k s*en servir en France
qu'en 1342. Toute la Valine des Vaux de Vire est remplie de
moulins k papier^ de vastes magasins^ tant pour loger le chifibn, la
oolle et les autres mati^res premieres que poiu' le papier de toute
esp^ qu*on y fabrique en grande quantity. Toutes ces usines^ ainsi
que les maisons des manufacturiers qui les accompagnent, sont b&ties
presque toutes en pierre de taille et bien construites^ &c. &c.*' p. 156.

''Quoiqu*on ne puisse fixer au juste T^tablissement de la papeterie k
^re^ il parait pourtant que c'est dans le courant du seizi^me siMe
puisque d^ ]*an ICOO^ il y avait d^jk des moulins k papier b&tis dans
les Vaux de Vire 3 ainsi il y avait k peine deux si^cles que cette inven-
tion dtait connue qu*on en fabriquait dejk k Vire. Les manufacturiers
de cette ville tirent la plus grande partie du chiffon necessaire^ de la
ci-devant Brefeigne. Tout le papier de cette fabrique est export^ en
diff^rentes villes de Tintferieur, k Rouen, au H&vre et sur-tout k Paris,
*otl il en est vendu la msyeure partie.** p. 1 59.

In the following paragraph we learn that " St. Anne is the pre-
siding patroness of paper makers 5 and that the anniversary of her
birth day is celebrated by a suspension of all labour, and by proces-
sions and amusements among the workmen.*' But of these two ma-
nufetctorics, that of cloth is the greater. The author becomes quite
animated and picturesque in a portion of his description of it.

Quoiqu*il en soit, cette manu&cture^^tablie k Vire^ ne tarda pas k y

VIRE,

451

books, he quitted the premises, and begged I would
wait his return with a copy or two of them. While he

fiiire de grands progr^. Le cours tortueux de la riviere de Vire^ sa
rapidit^^ lea rochers dont elle est remplie^ fbrmant aupr^ de cette
Tille une grande quantity de cascades et de sauts> a rendu focile la
construction des moulins k foulon, et autres qui y sont en assez grand
nombre. D*autre part^ la terre qui sert k ddgraisser les draps s'y
trouve ti^s k commodity dans la lande de Clermont $ les fbulons de
Vire la yantent comme excellente et lui donnent la pr^fi^rence sur
toutes celles qu*on trouve ailleurs. Ces divers avantages naturels
i^unis, &voris^rent beaucoup r^tablissement et les progi^ de cette
gninde manufacture, ime des plus considerables qui soit en France, an
moins par le grand nombre d*ouvriers qu'elle occupe, puisque je ne
crois pas exag^rer de porter leur nombre k plus de cinq mille per-
sonnes, tant dans la ville qu*k la campagne.** p. 161 .

During the invasion of Italy by the French, it was the town of Vire
which supplied all the clothing — especially the coarser part— for the
army. Hear what the author observes upon this.

Dans ce tems-lk nos arme^s faisant de grands progr^ en Italic, Vire
fbumit k cette arm^e une immense quantity de draps de bourre, de la
plus basse qualitd qu*il soit possible de faire. On les nomma cisal-
pins, du nom d*une r^publique nouvellement fondle. Ces draps gris,
bruns, et de toutes series de couleurs mk\€es, semblaient ^tre toi^ours
trop bons, puisqu*on voyait des marchands, apr^s les avoir achetds, les
fedre remettre k la ramme pour les faire allonger de plusieurs aunes :
aussi le plus cher des cisalpins allait-il au prix de cine francs Taune }
car les Virois ont le talent de faire du drap au prix le plus modique
qu'on puisse d^irer. Quoiqu'il en soit, ce talent, si c*en est im, a foit
entrer dans Vire, des sommes immenses de numeraire, et les cisalpins
ont enrichi bien des drapiers, qui auraient tout perdu, s*ils n*avaient
febriqud que des draps fins et de haut prix.*' p. 172

The concluding sentence, and that which immediately follows*

* Voil^, je crois, la vrme cause qoi fiidt que la dnq>erie de Mrs est depois
long-tems dans le mfime ^tat, d'oil elle ne peat gu^res espd^r de sortir, paroe

VIRE.

was gone, M. Adam took the opportunity of telling me
that he was a rich, respectable tradesman ; but that,

the preceding, were one aroong the causes which drew down upon the
author the indignation of his fellow-townsmen. I proceed to pro-
bably more interesting extracts ; and shall commence with that reladng
to the

Drbbb and Charact£r of th£ Women.
" Quant au costumb des femmbs d'ai:yourd*hui> comme il fiaudrait on
volume entier pour le d^crire, je n*ai pas le courage de m'engager
dans ce labyrinte de ridicules et de frivolity. Ce que j*en dirai seuk-
ment en g^n^ral^ c*est qu'autant les femmes du temps pass^, etaieot
d^centes et chastes^ et se faisaient gloire d*6tre graves et modestes,
antant celles de notre si^de^ mettent tout en ceuvre pour paraltre cj-
nyques et vohiptueuses. Nous ne sommes plus au temps oil les plus
grandes dames se fEiisaient honneur de porter la cord^^re.* Leurs ha-
biUemens ^taient aussi larges et ferm^s^ que cdui des femmes de nos
jours sont ouverts et l^rs et d*ime finesse que les formes du coqis,
au moindre mouvement^ se dessinent^ de mani^re ^ ne laisser rien ig-
sorer. A peine se couvrent-elles le sein d'un voile transparent ti^
l^er ou de je ne sais quelle palatine qu'elles nomment point-k-jour,
quij en couvrant tout> ne cache rien ; en sorte que si elles n'etalent
pas tous leurs charmes k d^couvert> c*est que les hommes les moins
acrupuleux^ qui se contentent de les persifler^ en seraient revolt^
tout-k-fait. D*ailleurs^ c*est que ce n*est pas encore la mode 3 plu-
aieurs poussent m^me Timpudence jusqu*k venir dans nos temples
tans coiffure^ les cheveux h^riss^ comme des furies 3 d*autres^ par
une bizarrerie qu*on ne pent expliquer se d£pouillent> autant qu*il est
en leur pouvoir^ des marques de leur propre sexe^ semblent vougir
d*6tre femmes^ et deviennent ridicules en voulant paraitre demi-
hommes.

que pluBieurs obstacles presqu'inTincibles s'y opposent. Le premier est dans
la quality des hunes qu'on y employe ; un second vient du trop peu d'attention
de la part des fabricants. "

^ Ceinture alors regardde comme Ic symbole de la continence. La reine de
FVaiioe en d^rut les femmes titr^ dont la oonduite ^t irr^rochable."
Hiii. (h im rhm. ie Bretmgme i la Fnmee par PabU IrmL

VIRE.

453

having siud some severe things of the manufactures
of Vire in his Jirst publication^ relating to the cwil

Api^ ayoir d^shonor6 l*habit des femmes« elles ont encore vouln
prostituer celui des hommes. On les a vues adopter succesaivement
lea chapeauxy les redingotes^ les vestes^ les gilets, les bottes et jus-
qu*aux boutons. Enfin si, au lieu de jupons, ellea avaient pu s'ac-
ooounoder de Tusage de la culotte, la metamorphose ^tait complette;
mais elks ont pr&f^r^ les robes tralnantes 3 c*est dommage que la na-
ture ne leur ait donn6 une troisi^me main, qui leur serait n^cessaire
pour tenir cette longue queue, qui sou vent patrouille laboue ou balaye
la poussi^re. Pliit k Dieu que les anciennes lois fussent encore en vi-
goeur, oil ceux et celles qui portaient des habits indecent etaientobligifo
d*aller k Rome pour en obtenir Vabsolution, qui ne pouvait leur Hre
accordee que par le souverain pontife.*

Eneffet, le pape Eugene ne permit, en 1435, aux Cordeliers, d*ab-
aondre les femmes qui portaient des habits ind^cens et des robes k
queues, que dans le cas oil elles n'auraient fait que suirre la coutume
da pays et non k dessein de squire; et s*il permit ^galement d*ab80U-
dre les taiUeurs et couturi^res qui fEiisaient de ces habillemens, ce ne
fbt qu'k condition qu'ils n'imagineraient plus de nouvelles modes. O
antiques et sages ordonnances, que vous seriez utiles de nos jours !

Mais apr^ m'^tre ennuy^ k d^uvrir la turpitude de quelques folks
k qui la fureur des modes toume la t^te, ou dont la toilette fait toute
I'occupation, il est doux de se reposer sur un sujet plus agr^able, en
essayant de tracer le tableau des vertus et des talens du plus grand
nombre des femmes du Bocage, oi^ Ton peut dire que les bonnes
moBuri et Thonnfttet^ sont encore en honneur, malgr^ k d^bordement
des Tices qui ont inond^ la France pendant Tabsence de la Religion.
Mais comme ks Bocains y sont ti^-attach6s et que la plupart lui sont
rest^s fiddles, m^me durant son exil, on doit esp^rer que Tair hagard et
les reparties fibres de quelques femmes (assaisonntes d^un b. ou d'une
t) disparaStront enti^rement. On voit d^k avec plaisir que k saine
morale reprend son empire dc jour en jour, sur-tout parmi les femmes.

* Foifez Phab. des hcol siculien par MM Boiletm. Reeriatkms kUimiqtm
pmr M, Dr€%m-Dur^wr^ tme II.

454

vniE.

histoiy of the Bocains^ his townsmen sharply resented
what they considered as reflections thrown out against

qui ne devraient jamais oublier que la sagesse et la modestie aoiit kt
deux plus beaux oraemens de leur sexe.

"Les femmes du Bocage, et sur-tout les Viroises^ joigiient k un eqvit
▼if et e^jou^ les qualit^s du coips les plus estimables. Blondes et bruues
pour le plus grand nombre^ elles sont de la moyenne taille^ mais bte
Ibnn6es : elles ont le teint firais et fleuri^ Toeil vif^ le visage yenadi, k
demarche leste^ un air ktoBk et tr^ ^^gantes dans tout lenr maintiai.
Si on dit avee raison que les Bayeusines sont belles^ les fiUes da Bo-
cage> qui sont leurs voisines^ ne leur oklent en aucune mani^^ car en
gki6ral le sang est ti^beau en ce pays. Quant aux talens spiritods^
elles les possMent k un dkgrk Eminent. Elles parlent avec aisanoe^ cot
le repartie prompte^ et outre les soins du m^nage^ oh elles excdknt
de telle sorte qu*il n*y a point de contrfees oil il y ait plus de linge>
dies entendent k menreiUe^ et font avee succts^ tout le detail du com-
meroe." p.ttS.

These passages also^ notwithstanding the sort of amende honor-
able made in the concluding paragraph^ raised a storm of indignadon
and bitterness against the imsuspecting author. From a consideration
that copies of this work may be of extreme rarity^ as well as from a
conviction that it contains within itself some very interesting informa-
tion^ I shall submit two— and only two more passages : the one^ rela-
ting to the introduction of the art of painting } the other^ to that of
the art of printing^ in the Bocage. They are as follow:

Le grand nombre d'anciens tableaux qu*on voyait dans les ^liseset
les monast^s du Bocage^ peuvent faire croire que cet ^tat y 6tait en
estimes sans doute que la plupart de ces tableaux n*avaient pas kt6
ex^cut^s que par des 6trangers^ puisque ce fiit un peintre de Rome
qui vint peindre la voiite de Valise de Vire en 1 534^ cela prouve qu'il
n'y avait point de peintre en ce pays^ puisqu*on fot oblig^ d*en foire
venir un de si loin et k si grands frais. Entre tous les anciens tableaux
qui se voyaient dans T^glise Notre-Dame de Vire^ on remarquait Tado-
ration des bergers qui 6tait autrefois au maitre-autel ; il est actuelle-
ment plac6 dans la chapelle N uve^ au c6tk de T^pitre. Quoiqu*il soit
vieux^ il porte encore des marques de son ancienne beautfe. Le co-

VIRE.

456

them ; and M. S^gnio was told that perhaps his per^
sonal safety was endangered ! ... He wanted not a

lorifl en dtait ^datant^ il fbrmait un bel ensemble, on y remarquait
BUT- tout un bel ange qui parait dans Tadmiration, ainsi qu'un beiger
tenant sa houlette, ayant un agneau coucb^ k c6t6 de lui.*' p. 945.

Quant k l'imprim brib, on sait que cet art n*e8t pas anden, puisqu'il
n*a invente qu*au quinzi^me uMe. Pendant tout le si^le suhrant,
0 n*y ent gu^res que les grandes villes qui en eussent. Ainsi il n*ett
pas etonnant qu'il n*y en edt pas au Socage.

''Le prenuer Imprimeur dont on ait connaissance, pour la ville de
Vire, fut ut nomme Jean Decetne, yers le commencement du 17e.
aiMce. Qttdques exemplaires de son impression font voir que, non*
•eulement il 6tait habfle dans Tart typograpbique, mais qu*il 4tait sa-
vant et poss^dait les langues andennes : car dans quelques livres sortis
de ses presses, on trouve, outre le Latin, du Grec, et m^me de Viil-
hreu. II y a entr autres un livre de controverses contre les Calvinistes,
que Decetne imprima en 1670. Les exemplaires en sont ti^
rarcs.

'' Depnis sa mort, jusqu'en 1790,\^re n*eut aucune Imprimerie, mais
k cette epoque, la revolution etant arriv6e, M. Malo, frfere-qu^teur cor*
ddier, du couvent de cette ville, se fit Imprimeur. Mau M. Malo osa
aspirer k une plus baute fortune. On a vu bien des fob, sous la baire
et le froc, le m^me courage, que sous le casque et la cuirasse. M.
Malo, sentant p^tiUer le feu martial au fond de ses entrailles, se fit sol«
dat, et la fortune le servit si bien qu*il devint g^n^ral. Ce grade valait
infiniment mietix que de fieure g^mir la presse 5 aussi il la vendit, et le
sieur Lebel lui succMa.

" Un an api^s, le sieur Jdam en ^tablit une nouvelle k Vire. Ainsi
cette villeposs^ actuellement deux Imprimeries. £n 1S08, le pre-
mier Janvier, le sieur Adam entreprit de publier un nouveau journal,
qu'il continue sous le nom de Journal de Varrondisiement de Vire*' p.
S53.

It seems not a little bevere and discouraging, tbat a man, wbo, im-
mersed in business, and writing botb to amuse bimself and to exalt tbe
talents of bis townsmen — as M. S^guin bas done — (in tbe litde volume
before us, of upwards of 400 pages) sbould bave met witb a fate so
wbolly unmerited and unexpected. But doubtless tbere must be a

456

VIRE.

fiecoad hint — ^but fled from home with precifntancjr:
and in his absence the populace suspended his efllgy^

secret history^ or key^ attached to the transaction^ whichlfiranklyowi
I have neither the curiosity nor the means to ascertain. We now
come to the second of M. Spain's publications— entitled HistoireMUi'
iairedes Bocains; k Vire^ &c. 1816 12mo. pp. 429. This is in emy
respect more generally interesting (beyond the limits of Vire) than its
precursor. The author begins thus :

Lorsque je donnai monHistoire de Tlndustrie du Socage au Public,
je me vis en butte aux calomnies les plus odieuses et les plus oonlia-
dictoires. Ma vie fiit expos^e aux plus graves dangers. Je fas jng^
sans examen, condamn^ avec fureur^ et livr^ aux ex6cuteurs des hautci
oeuvres, avant m^me d'avoir pu ouvrir la bouche pour me d^endie.
Mais Tavidit^ mercantile qu*on supposait bless6e^ n*en ktail quele pii-
texte la jalousie en 6tait le veritable styet^ et Tesprit r^olutionnaife
permettait alors de tout oser contre moi.*

II est vrai que ce n*est pas d'aiyourd*hui que les hommes qui ont le
plus travaill^ k illustrer leur Patrie, ont ktb honnis et p^rsecutte.
N*est-ce pas dans ce pays qu'ont vtoi des Olivier Basseiin et des Ma^-
aire, dontTun fut priv^ de ses droits les plus l%itimes, et I'autre rfeduit
k mourir de mis^re? Si de si grands honunes ont 6te m^connusoa
m^pris^s^ je sais que je ne suis pas trop en droit de me plaindre^ car je n*ai
ni leur talent^ ni leur r6putation^ aussi n*est-ce point pour accuser per*
Sonne que je rapporte ces faits^ mais seulement pour obtenir la grioe
d'etre lu avant d'etre jug6^ afin du moins de n'^tre condamn^ que dans
les formes. J'aurais pu citer en ma faveur le t^moignage honorable
que m'ont rendu plusieurs Acad^miciens et autres Savans illustres,
tant de la Capitalc que des D^partemens. Mais quelques soient les
clameurs de mes ennemis^ je me contenterai de leur r^pondre avec un
des plus grands liommes du 16^. sl^cle^f Faites mieux, ou kugsex /aire
ceux d qui Dieu en a donn4 le talent. I**

♦ Voyez le Journal de rArrondissement de Vire, Aodt 18 10.
+ Le Card. Ximdn^s aux ddtracteurs d'Erasme. Dupin des Antiquity
T. 1. p. 77., Fleuri Hist. Eccl. T. 26, p. 339.

X Chacun k ce metier

Peat perdre impun^ent de I'encre et du papier. BoUew.

VIRE.

457

and burnt it before the door of his house. 'Riis, how->
ever^ did not cool the ardour of authorship in M.
guin. He set about publishing his military history of

This publication is refdly filled with a great variety of curious histo«
rical detail — throughout which is interspersed much that relates to
" romaunt lore*' and romantic adventures. The civil wars between
MoNTOOM£]iT and Matignon form alone a very important and inter*
esting portion of the volume 3 and it is evident that the author has ex*
erted himself with equal energy and anxiety to do justice to both par.
ties'— except that occasionally he betrays his antipathies against the
Hugonots.* I have quoted the commencing passage of this work : let
me also quote the concluding one. There may be at least half a
score readers who may think it something more than merdy histo-
rically curious :

Je finirai done ici mon Uistoire. Je n*ai point parl^ d*im grand
nombre des faitsd*armes etd'actions glorieuses^ qui se sont passes dans
la guerre de Tind^pendance des Etats-Unis d'Am^rique oti beaucoup
de Bocains ont eu part ; mais mon principal dessein a 6te de traiter des
goerres qui ont eu lieu dans le Bocage 3 ainsi je crois avoir atteint mon
bot^ qui ^tait d*ecrire THistoire Militaire des Bocains par des fiedts el
non pas des phrases $ je ne peux cependant omettre une circonstance
glorieuse pour le Bocage 3 c*est la visite que le bon et infbrtune Louis
XVI. fit aux Bocains en 1786. Ce grand Monarque dont les vues
^talent aussi sages que profondes^ avait resolu de faire construire le
beau Port de Cherbourg^ ouvrage vraiment Royal^ qui est ime des
plus nobles entreprises qui aicnt ^te fiutes depuis Torigine de la Mo-
narchic. Les Bocains sentirent I'avantage d*un si grand bienfoit. Le
Roivenant visiter les travaux^ fut accueilli avec un enthousiasme presqu*-
impossible 4 d^crire^ ainsi que les Princes qui I'accompagnaient. Sa
marche ressemblait k un triomphe. Les peuples accouraient en fbule
du fond des campagnes, et bordaient la route, feasant retentir les airs
de chants d*al%resse et des cris millions de fois r6p4t6s de Vive le Roi !

* " Les soldats Huguenots commirent dans cette occasion, tontes sortes de
cruaut^, d'infaimes et de sacrileges, jusqu'k m^er les Saintes Hosties am
rsvoine qn'ils donnaient k leurs chevaux : mais Dieu permit qu'ils n'en vou-
lurent pas manger." p. 369.

458

VIBE.

the Bocains ; aod in the introductory part takes occa-
sionto retort upon the violence of his persecutors. To
return to M. S4guin. In about ten minutes he appear-
ed^ with two copies in his hand — ^which I purchased,
I thought dearly, at five francs each volume ; or a
napoleon for the four books. After the adventures
of this day, I need hardly tell you that I relished a
substantial dinner at a late hour, and that both Mr. L.
and myself were well satisfied with Vire.

Yesterday M. La Renaudiere made good his engage-
ment, and dined with us at five, in the salle k manger.
This is a large inn ; and if good fore depended upon the
number and even elegance of female cooks, the tra-
veller ought to expect the very best at the Cheval
Blanc. The afternoon was so inviting — and iny guest
having volunteered his services to conduct me to the
most beautiful points of view in the immediate neigh-
bourhood— that we each seemed to vie with the other
in dispatching what was placed before us . . . and
within thirty-five minutes, from the moment of sitting
down, we were in the outskirts of Vire. Never shall I
forget that afternoon's ramble. The sun seemed to

Musique^ Processions^ Arcs de triomphe^ Chemins jonch^s de fleors ;
tout flit prodigu6. Les villes de Caen^ de Bayeux^ de Saint-Lo, de
Carentan^ de Valognes, se surpass^rent daos cette occasion^ pour
prouver ^S. M. leur amour et leur reconnaissance; mais rien ne fut phis
brillant que Tentr^e de ce grand Roi k Cherbourg. Un peuple immensej
le clerg6^ toute la noblesse du pays^ le son des cloches, le bniit dn
canon, les acclamations universelles prouv(;rent au Monarque mieuz
encore que lu pompe toute Royale et les f^tes magnifiques que la ville
ne cessa de lui donner tous les jours, que les coeurs de tous les Bocains
6taient k lui.'* p. 428.

yiRE.

459

become more of a golden hue^ and the atmosphere to
increase in clearness and serenity* A thousand little
songsters were warbling in the full-leaved branches of
the trees; while the mingled notes of the blanchis^
seuses and the milk-maids^ near the banks of the
rippling stream below, reached us in a sort of wild and
joyous harmony — as we gazed down from the overhang-
ing heights. The meadows were spotted with sheep^ and
the orchards teemed with the coming fruit. You may
form some notion of the value of this rich and pictu-
r^ue scenery, when I tell you that M . La Renau-
diere possesses land, in the immediate vicinity of Vire,
which lets at <£6. 6«. per English acre ! My guide was all
gaiety of heart, and activity of step. We followed him
through winding paths and devious tracks, amidst
ooppice-wood and fern — not however till we had
viewed, from one particular spot upon the heights^ a
most commanding and interesting panorama of the
town of Vire. We left Mr. Lewis, busied in tracing
this panorama with his pencil, to continue our route^
and to pay a visit to a Mr. and Mrs. S * * * English
p^ple — and friends of M. La Renaudiere . • . living
about a league further on.

In our way thither, we discoursed of English poetry ;
and I found that Thomson was as great a favourite
with my guide as with the rest of his countrymen.
Indeed he frankly told me that he had translated him
ilito French verse, and intended to publish his transla-
tion. I urged him to quote specimens ; which he did with
a readiness and force, and felicity of version, that quite
enchanted me. He thoroughly understands the origi-
nal ; and in the description of a cataract^ or mountain

VOL I. Be

4fl0

VIBE.

torrent^ from the Summer, he appeared to me ahnoit
to surpass it. Monsieur R. then proceeded to quote
Young and Pope, and delivered his opinion of our two
great Whig and Tory Reviews. He said he preferred
the politics and vivacity of the Edinburgh^ but thought
the Quarterly more instructive and more carduUy
written. ^^Enfin (he concluded) j*aime infiniment
votre gouvemement, et vos ^crivains; mais j'aime
m<Mns le peuple Anglois.** I replied that he had at
least very recently shewn an exception to this opimol^
in his treatment of one among this very people. Cert
une autre chose** — replied he briskly^ and laughingly—
vous aUez voir deux de vos compatriotes^ qui sont
mes amis intimes^ et vous en serez bien content !'* So
saying, we continued our. route through a delightful
avenue of beech-trees, upon the most elevated part
within the vicinity of the town ; and my companion
bade me view from thence the surrounding country.
It was rich and beautifril ia the extreme ; and with
perfect truth, I must say, resembled much more
strongly the generality of our own scenery than what I
had hitherto witnessed in Normandy. But the sun was
beginning to cast his shadows broader and broader,
and where was the residence of Monsieur and Madame
S * * *?

It was almost close at hand. We reached it in a
quarter of an hour — ^but the inmates were unluckily
from home. The house is low and long, but respect-
able in appearance both within and without. The ap-
proach to it is through a pretty copse, terminated by a
garden ; and the surrounding grounds are rather taste-
fully laid out. A portion of it indeed had been trained

VIEE.

461

into something in the lihape of a labyrinth ; in the centre
of which was a rocky seat, embedded as it were in moss
— and from which some fine glimpses were caught
of the surrounding country. The fragrance from the
orchard trees, which had not yet quite shed their blos^
soms, was perfectly delicious; while the stilness of
evening added to the peculiar harmony of the whole.
We had scarcely sauntered ten minutes before Madame
arrived. She had been twelve years in France, and
spoke her own language so imperfectly, or rather so
unintelligibly, that I begged of her to resume the
French. Her reception of us was most hospitable:
but we declined cakes and wine^ on account of the
lateness of the hour. She told us that her husband
was in possession of from fourscore to a hundred
acres of the most productive land, and regretted that
he was from home, on a visit to a neighbouring gen-
tleman ; assuring us, if we could stay, that he would
be heartily glad to see us — " especially any of his
countrymen^ when introduced by Monsieur La Re-
naudiere.** It was difficult to say who smiled and
bowed with the greater complacency, at this double-
shotted compliment. I now pressed our retreat home-
wards. We bade this agreeable lady farewell, and re-
turned down the heights, and through the devious
paths by which we had ascended,

l^Tiile talk of various kind deceived the road.

A more active and profitable day has not yet been de-
voted to Norman objects, whether of art or of nature.
To morrow I breakfast with my friend and guide,
and immediately afterwards push on for Falaisb.

462

• VIBJB*

A cabriolet is hired^ bat doabts are 'entertained ft^
speeting the practicability of the route. My next
epistle will be therefore from fWaise— where the re-
nowned William the Conqaeror was born whose body
we left entombed at Caen. The day is clearing np ;
and I yet hope for a stroll upon the sdte of the castle.

END OF VOL. I.

London : printed by W. Bulmer and VV. MicoU
Ciereland-iow, St James's.

FVom the omistion to notice certain e^tiona of works, in certam
libraries, the reader will not infer that such libraries are theiefore without
them. Nor does it necessarily follow that they emUm them. My object hai
been, only to describe sudi books as, from choice, or the pardcnlar inclina-
tions of the librarians, were placed before me in the several libraries visited.

The MSS. are designated by the titles being printed in small c^iital
letters.

INDEX

OF MANUSCRIPTS,

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS,

DE8CBIBKD9 QUOTED, OR BEFXBBED TO.

Fol. Page.

Abano de Petri, Cmciliator, 1472, folio— ia the Public library

atManich, - - - - iii. 392-3

jEne^ Silvii Hut, Bohem, 1475, foUo — in the Public Li-
brary at Augsbourg, - - • Hi. 228
JEtoput, Gr. 4to. Edit, piin.— in the Imperial Library atA^enna, — 493

Lai, 1475, 4to. de FUla in the Royal Library at

Stuttgart, . - - - - — 142

Lai, 1480, folio— in the Royal library at Pfcris, - ii. 296

i-; lial 1486, T^pp%, in the same library at Ptoris, - — 297

Lat, 1486, G. de Leeu, folio— in the same library, 297

fFiihimt date, or name ef printer, in the same, - 297

FtaL 1491 and 1492, 4to.— in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - - iii. 493

— Hiipan, 1496, foUo — ^in the Royal Library at Ptoris, ii. 298

Germ. fFiihimt date, ifc., in the same library, - 297

in the same library, - 298

— Lat. 4to. — Prince Eugene's copy in the Imperial
Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 493

no date. Jig. lig. incis. (/. Zeiner) in the Royal

library at Stuttgart, - - - - — 143

^iopi Fabulee (Fab. topics) Brandt. 1501, folio copy pur-
chased of Mr. Fischeim at Munich, - - — 304

Acta Sanctorum, 52 vols., folio— in the PubUc Library at
Rouen, - - - i. 179

20 volumes, in the Chapter Library at Bayeux — 372

• three sets of, in the Public Library at Stras-
bourg, - - - - iiL 73

■ six sets of, in the Public Library at Munich, — 298

Alain Chartier, parabolet de, Ferard, 1492, foUo — upon til-

LUM — ^in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 289

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Fd. Page.

Alain Ckartier, let faU de, f^erard, no date, folio— 4n the

Royal Ldbrary al Fwis, • -

289

Albert Durer ; ongnial drawings or, in a Bo<hl of tTaycfB,

in tnc tniDiic Ldorary at iviiuiicny

273

Alcuimu de lyinUate, Mtmast, Uiht^mrrha, 1500, folio— in

the Public library at Angsboiiigy ...

—

233

Alatne viauwif in tne tnioiic iiiDrary at icooeny

178

X_. •.t^-. D^^^l ¥ 11._S.

311-314

— •

350

seller, - - -

351

J_ l^J t_ • T - -

Si.

296

jnexttfutrui uouuif vuigo ae rtiut uei uocvntuue. v. or

sspwa^ folio— in the Imperial Library at Vienna^

502

AlfMMoc hiiteri^ue — le Bt^tnget B(^teuM — a chapbook.

extracts firom, ...

199

jMgevMi ue jtfctUf 14/4, /. ae^ oiorafiOy louo— *in uie iTioiic

Liiorary at niiinicny ....

■292 -

AniM-CkrOi-^olock dooi^-^ the I\rouc idbrary at Landshnt,

335

Ambroiu Hemnneron, (14oD,) in the Library of Uottwic

monaSfeery, - - -

—

429

Aogsbourgy - - * - •

■—

229

a1«a OUa1%18;M Y ?ll ■ II HI 1 .A ^T«l.Ma«ii *

zxv

jvfnourif Catuse et aepurt^ rerarOf louy, loiio— *ufon vbllum.

in ine itoyni liiDrary at « oriBy " •

ii.

287

Angelui de Gamb. Tract Maleficwrum, 1472, folio— 4n the

Public Ubrary at Augsbourg,

232

Anthologia Grmca, 1496, 4to. — upon vellum, in the li-

brary of Ste. GenoTi^ve, at Pfeuis,

349

, 1603, Aldus, 8?o. upon vbllum, in the

Royal Library at Pfeuis, - - .

ii.

311

ArUhfui de Burtrw Concilia, Adam Rot, 1472, folio— in the

Royal Library at Stuttgart,

iii.

143

■ , in the li-

brary of Gostemeuberg Monastery,

617

Antonii Archpi Opera Theologica, 1477, Koberger, folio—

in the Public Library at Strasbourg,

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS.

Fol. Page,

AnUmku SabeWumt, m Mtmii. Stmikc. 4to.^ the Ubrary of

Gdttwic Monastery, - - - - iii. 430
jtnton, de S, Greg. Cam. Deeret. Paoia, 1476, folio— in tlie

Imperial Library at ATienna, . - - - iii. 602

Apocalifpie, bioeh-book^ia the Royal Library al Fsris, - ii. 256

, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii. 146

, in the library of Gdttwic Monastery, — 428

, in the Imperial library at A^enna» — 631

, /la/. /Zamii^^, in the Imperial Library at Vienna^ — 483

ApoiiinariM Offred. adv. Mani. B. Cfallui, 1478, 4to.— in the

Imperial Ubrary at Vienna, - - - ^ 504

ApotUei Creeds in German, block-book, with fitK: simile— in the

Public Library at Mmiich, • • - — 384

ApfMMUi Lot., 1472, F. de Sjnra, in the Public Library at

Nuremberg, - . - Supplemeni, zz?i
, Raidolt. 1478, folio— in the library of the Monas-
tery of St. Florian, - - - - iii. 390
-, Gr. 1551. folio— Diane de Poictiers' copy, in the

Royal Library at Pteris, - - - - ii. 316-7

JjmUm$, 1469, folio-^ the Royal Library at Ptois, - — 282
, imperfect, in the Public Library at

Munich, - - - - iiL 290

, UPON VKLLUM, in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - — 493
, 1472, Jenmm, folio — ^in the last mentioned

library, - - - - — 493

Aquinas, T., Sec. Secunda, Schoeffher, 1467, folio — upon

VBLLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna^ - - — 505
, Mentelin, folio, in the Public

Library at Strasbourg, - - — 69
, P. de PuMback. No date, folio

— in the same library, ... ilnd.
, OpuM (iwnrtiicript. Schoefker. 1469, folio—

UPON VBLLUM, in the same library, - - ibid
, In Evang. Matt, ei Marc. 1470, S. and

PannartM, foUo— in the same library, - - iM.
, de virtui. et vitiit. Menielm — ^in the Public

Library at Munich, - - - — 289

Arbre des Batailies, Ferard, 1493, folio — upon vkllum,
in the Royal Library at Paris, - - i. 286

▼i INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Areimu de Beih G0tkko, 1470, folkH-in the l\iblie Libnry

alGMn, . . . . L 333

Aretnm^ L., de Siudm et LUterU, {Unef^ 4to.— in the Royil

Ubrary tl Stattgart, - - . - iiL 143

Ariitaphanei, Gr, Aldtu, 1496, folio, in the Public Library it

Ronen, - - - - * i. 178

ArUMelU Operas Gr. Ahku, 1498, 6 fols. Two copies vfw

VBLLUM (the fint volume in each copy wanting) in tiie

Royal library at PteriB, - . - - u. 291
Comment EuitraHi, 1636, Ald^i, folio, hige pi^

copy in the same collection, - - . — 314
■' Eihicn Nicham0ckea. Gr. (i^MKt) — remaricaUy

splendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Paris, • • — 893
Eikica. Lai. Mentdin, Folio — in the Public

Idbmy at StFBsbonrg, - - • i& 69

Ar» Memorandi, &c. — - Mock book : five copies of, in the

Public library at Munich, - - j — 282

— — ^— — — — in the Public Library at

Landshnt, - • . S36

————————— in the Imperial library at

Vienna, - - - . . . _ 531
in the Library of CkKtwic

Monastery, - - - - — 428

An Aforiendi, Germanici — 4to. — in the Royal library at

Stuttgart, - - - .^14$
, Lai, block book — two editions, in the Public

library at Munich, - - • - 283

Art de bien Afourir, f^erard, no date, folio — upon vbllum ,

in the Royal Library at Ptoris, - - - ii. 288

Art and Crqfte to know well to dpe, Caston, in the Royal

library at P^, - - - - ii. 1177

Artus Le Rot, MS. xiith century, — in the Royal library

atPtuis, - - - - - ii. 223

Another MS. of the same Romance, in the same library, 224
Artajtani Summa, (1469) folio — in the PubUc Library at

Augsbourg, - - - - iii. 232

Auguttinui Stt. De Cwitate Dei, 1467, folio — in the Royal

Librar>- at Pari», - , - - - ii. 262

— in the Library

of Ste. Gencvi^re at Paris, - 346

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. vu

fW. Page.

AuguHinm Su. Dt Cwitaie Ddi, 1467, folio, in the Imperial

library at Vienna, ...

iii.

483

, in the Library

of Caostemeuburg Monastery, - -

—

616

■ Sweffnheffm mnd Pannartg,

1470, folio, in the Public Library at Vm,

447

r, de Spim, 1470, folio —

in the Public Library at Rouen, - -

176

■ , UPON VBLLUM,

late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery, - - -

iii.

375

, UPON YBLLUM,

in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

483

— — , upon paper, in

the Library of Odttwic Monastery,

—

429

in the Public Library at Strasbourg,

—

, in the Public

library at Munich, ...

—

293

, in the Public

library at Landshut, - - - -

—

335

Schaeffher, 1473,

folio— in the Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster,

374

, Jensan 1475,

foUo — UPON VBLLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

483

Episiol^, Menirlin, folio, three copies, with

different ms. dates, in the Public Library at Munich,

—

293

, Mentelm — in the Imperial Library

iii.

484

Coitf'eishmtm, Libri Kill, 1475. 4to. — in the

Iiisperial Library at Vienna,

484

de Trinitate, folio— in the same collection.

ibid.

de arte pr^icandi. Fuit — in the possession of

M. Levranlt at Strasbourg, ...

' de tingularitate Clertcorum^ 1467, 4to. — in the

King's Private Library at Stuttgart,

163

AuGUSTiNi Sti. in Psalmos, MS. xyth century — formerly

in the library of Gor?inus, King of Hungary, and now in

that of the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

155

' Yppon, de Com, Evang, 1473, foUo — in the

Public Library at Augsbourg, ...

232

Aulu» Gellius, 1469, folio-— in the Royal Library at Paris,

ii.

282

viii

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

rol. Pnge.

AuUu Gellhtt, upon vkllum, in the ImperUJ Library »l

Yienna, - - . . - iii.

Aummkti, 1472, fi^— in the Royal Library at - ii. 282

■ in the Impend Library at Vienna/ - ui. 494

, Aldui^ 1617, 8fo. Grolier's copy, on large

paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 314

Aymon, les quaireJUg, 1683, 4to. —in the Library of the Ar-
senal, at Pteris - ... . _ 334

Ba!^, Tract, de QiuBsi. 1477- 4to. in the Public Library at
Rouen, - - - - - i. 177

BALI.AD8; Ban J<ntr, Bon Soir : Le Faillant Thmbadaur, vol. i.
224 — Ton^oun^ 389 ; various, from the Fmtdemre$ of Oli-
vier Bauelin, 436-444 ; Fhe Le Roi, Vwe DAmmtr^ ii. 3. ;
Nautance de Guillaume le Conquerant, ii. 64 ; m arborani
le drapeau blanc, at Falaise, ii. 23 ; le Bauer d* Adieu, 48.;
VImagedela Fie, 49iLe Troubadour Pariiien, 50 Sauve
quipeut^BX ; Balade joyeux det Tavemiers, ii. 287.

Bartholus Lectura. F. de Spira,\Al\. FoUo. Inthe Impe-
rial Library at Vienna, - ...

Bartsck, I. Adam de — Catalogue de» E»tan^>e», par, tfc. 1818.

8?o. - - . - -

Bastiano Foreii, 4to.-^in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

Bella (La) Mano, 1474, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at
Vienna, - . . .

Bellovacefwis Fine. Spec. Hist. 1473, folio ; in the Public Li-
brary at Rouen, . - - .

in the Public Library at Augs-

bourg, - .... -

in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - -
Morale, 14/6, folio, in the Public

Library at Strasbourg, - - - -

Benedictionarius, MS. xith century -in the Public Library
at Rouen, - ... -

Berlinghieri, Geograjla, folio — in the Imperial Library
(Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, - - -

Berinus et Aygres de Lamant, Bonfons, no date, in the Li-
brary of the Arsenal at Paris, -

iii.

606

614

514

176

iii.

233

iii.

606

iii.

169-175

iii.

515

ii.

336-7

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. ix

Fol Pagt,

Bmmrwm» Efiiiiolm, (1469) fbtio-in the Royd Litniry »l
Stuttgart, - - - - iii. 143

>i > foUo— in the Imperial Library at

Vienim, - - - - - - 606

BeuarioB, Card, Orai, ad Inclii. Itai, Prme. Going. 4to. in

the Imperial Library at Vienna^ - . . ^ 606

BiBUA Latina, MS. Dcth century, of Charles the Bald* in
the Royal library at IHuii, with a copper-plate engraving of
that Monarch's portrait, - - - ii. 156-168

— ' xiith century, in the same library, - ii. 166-

^— — — — xvth century, of the Emperor Wen-
ee»lmu--hjDi the Imperial Library at Vienna^ with three fiu>-
nmile engraved illustrations, - - - iii. 461-463

Hut, Paraphraiiica, MS. xvth century, - - ii. 168-172
Bibiia Polygloita Camplui. 1516, &c. in the Public library at
Coutances, - - - - - i. 412

^ copy belongingto Diane

de Poictiers, iu the Royal Library at Fstib, - - - ii. 315

' — copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas,
afterwards that of Eckius, in the Pubfic Library at Land-
shut, - - - - in. 336

— — — fTalton ; royal copy, in the Public Library
alCaen, - - - - - i. 336

' with the original de-

dication, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - iii. 138 (lUMeJ
——————————— Mrith the original de-

cBcation, in the Public library at Stuttgart, - - — 138

- in the Library of the
Monastery of St. Florian, in Austria - - — 391

BiMh PolyglotUi, Le Jay: in the Chi^ter library at Bayeux, i. 373
- in the Library of the Lyc6e at do. — 374
——————— in the Library of the Hotel de ^Ic

atSt.Lo, - - - - - — 396

'• — Hebraiea, edit. Soncini, 1489, in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 486

Houbigant^ 1763, in a Private Ck>l]ec-

tion near Bayeux, - - w - i. 361

Hahn, 1806, in the Library of the Mo-

nastery of Glostemeuburg, - - - - iii. 615

— — (rr«M, Aldiu^ 1518, folio — FVaikds Isf s copy, upon
thick paper, in the Royal Library at Paris^ - - ii. 313

X INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

fW. Pagt,

Biblia Gr^eca, Aldui, upon thick paper, in the Library of the
Arsenal at Pftris, - - - - ii. 323-4

— — - the usual copy, in the King's Private

brary at Stuttgart, - . - - iii. 1G2

Biblia Latina, (edU, Mmx, \4S5) folio, 2 ?oli., two copies of,
in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - iL 253

' >■ a copy in the Masarine

Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 364-5

a copy in the Public Li-
brary at Munich, - - - - - iu. 287

a copy in the Imperial

Library at Vienna - - - . . _ 494

Pfitter, (1461) folio, 3 v-ols. in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 265

in the

Royal Library at Stuttgart, Cunperfect) - - iii. 137

• in the

Imperial Library at Vienna - - . — - 485

f^si and Schoeffher, 1462: foUo—

three copies (two upon yblluk, and a third on paper) in

the fiibrary of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - ii. 321

VBI4LUM COPT, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, - - ii. 346

in the Mazarine Library at Paris, - ii. 365

in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - iii. 137

(imperfect) in the Public Library at Landshut, — 335

— ^— — iu the Imperial Library at Vienna, - — 485
Biblia Latina, Mentelin — in the Public Library at Stras-
bourg, - - - - - — 56

iu the Imperial Library at Vi-
enna, - - - - — 485

Eggetteyn, (ms. date, 1468) in the Public

Lilirary at Strasbourg, - - - - — 57

(ms. date, 1466) in the Public

Library at Munich, - - - - - — 289

. supposed edition of Eggesteyn, in the Public

Library at Strasbourg, - - - - — 55

, 1475. folio, Frisner, &c. — in the Public Li-
brary at Augsbonre, - - - - iii. 228

(14/5 edit. Gering) imperfect copy in the

Chapter Library \X Bayeux, - - - i. 373

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS.

Fol. Page,

Bibiia Lathm, Hailbrun, 1476, folio : two copies, of which one
is UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial library at Vienna, - iii. 486

jgfuon, 1479, folio, in the Public

Library at Strasbourg, - - . . 68

• UPON VEL-
LUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna -and a second copy
upon pi^r, ..... 486

■ Litt. - in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - - iii 486
: , 1483, folio, in the Public

Library at Rouen, - - - - i. 177
, 1486, folio, in the Public

Library at Caen, - - - ^ i. 333
: Fhfben, 1496, 8vo. in the Public

Library at Vire, - - - - . . — 447
Bibim Germanica, Mentelin, folio — in the Royal Library at

Paris, - - ii. 266

■ in the Public Library

at Strasbourg, - - - - - - iii. 66

■ two copies, in the Public

Library at Stuttgart, - - - . ^ 137

■ two copies in the Public

Library at Munich, - - - - . 287

■ in the Public Library at
Landshut, - - - . . _ 334

■ ■ in the Library at Clos-
temeuburg Monastery, - - - - — 616

in the Public Library
at Ratisbon, - - - Supplement, xy

- imperfect copy, (ms. date
of 1467) in the Library of the Prince of Tour and Tazii, at
Ratisbon, - - - Supplement, — xi

■ in the Public Library at

Nuremberg, - - Supplement, — xxv

tuppoied fint edition, in the

Public library at Landshut, . - . — 334

— , iuppated fint edition, folio, in the Library
of Gdttwic Monastery, - - - - — 428

> Sorg, Augtbaurg, 1477, folio, in the Li-
brary of Professor Veesenmeycr, at Ulm, - - — 196

xij INDEX OF MANUSGRIFTS

BtUm Germamem, Sarg, Angibmnrg^ 1477> folio, in tbe li-

brary of the olonastery of St. Fbrifto,

■ , Pepjm, 1624, folio— UPON vbllum, in

the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - -

Bihlla Italica; Kdend, AugtuH, 1471— 4blio— inthe Manrine

Library, at IWs, - . - -

366

in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

iiL

138

. Kalend. Oetobru, 1471, foho — m the Ubiary

of Ste. GeneW^, at Plunt, ...

••
u.

346

brary at Stuttgart, - ...

iii.

138

' in the Imperial

Library at VicBna, - - - -

486

1477» folio, in the Library of Grottwic Mo-

nastery, ....

4SB

B%M, Hut. Fenet. 1492, folio — ^ copy purchased of M. FIs-

304

HiMMr Bohemtcti, 1488, folio — in the Royal Library at Fsria,

267

- Poiontca, 1663, folio — in the same Library,

"—

256

■■ ■ in the Royal Library at Stutt-

gart, - - - . -

iii.

137

copy purchased by the Author at

iiL

228

in the Impenal Library at Vienna,

—

488

1699, folio— 4n the Library of Ste. Genevieve,

ii.

347

>■ Hunganca, 1666, folio— mcomplete, in the King's Pn-

Tate Library at Stuttgart, ...

iiL

162^

, 1626, folio, in the Public Library at Stras-

bourg, - - . . .

^ Sclatfonica,\5B\, folio, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

139

, 1684, in the Public Library at Stras-

bourg, - - - . .

, 1687, folio— in the Royal Library at Phris,

ii.

267

Bible, La Sainte, 1669, folio ; large paper copy in the Public

Library of Caen, ....

336

BiBLiA — ^HiSTORiCA, MS. vfrttbui germanwit. Sec. xiv. — in

the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

iii.

162

— — Aurea, IM. I. Zemer, 1474, folio — in the Library of

Chremsminster Monastery, ...

376

AND OP PRINTED BOOKS.

xiii

Fol. Pag€,

Biblia Pmtpemm, Neck book: in the Royal library at Paris, ii. 265

, printed by Pfister, in the same, - - — 261

' — , block book, German, — in the Royal lA-

biBry at Strasbourg, - - - iii. 146

, Laiine, first edition, in the same Library, — 147

, block book — one (}erman, and two Latin

editions, in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 283
— , Lat. in the Library of Gdttwic Monas-
tery, - - . - - — 428
. in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 531

BiOGRAPHT, RoTAL, OF Francb — XTith ccutury — magnifi-
cent MS. in the Royal Library at Paris, - . - ii. 216

Bkupkemaieun du mm de Dieu, an ancient morality, in Svo.,
without date — discovered in the vicinity of Rouen, i. 159 —
and fully described, with copious extracts, from the same
tniiqae copy in the Royal Library at Paris, ... — 302^10

Blazonry of Arms, Book of — xivth century, with he-
simfle portrait of Leopold de Sempach — in the Imperial Li-
brary at Vienna, - - - - uL 4744^

Block books; at Paris, i. 255; at Stuttgart, iiL 146; at Mu-
nich, iii. 279 ; at Landshut, iii. 335 ; at Gdttwic Monastery,
iii. 428 ; at Vienna, iii. 531.

BOCACB, DE8 CaS DE8 NOBLBS HoMMBS & FeMMBS, MS.

XTth century, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - iL 218

' ■ . ■ two more

MSS. of the same work, in the same Library, - - — 214

Boccace Ruinei det Nobla Hommes, Sfc, 1476, Coktrd Mam-

thn, folio, in the Royal Library at Pftris, - - — 280

Boccaccio II Decamerone, 1471, Valdatfer, folio — in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - . 279

, 1472, A, de Mckaelibui, folio, in

the Royal Library in Paris, - - - ibid.

in the Public Library at Nurem-

berg, .... Supplement,
1476, Zarohu, folio, in the Impe-

rial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 616

• Deo Gradas, Sine Anno : fimam adk.

prtn. in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 291

Nhmpkaie, 1477» 4to., hi the Royal Library at

Stuttgart, - . 145

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Boccaccio, de Clar. Muiier. (1470, qtL ?) folio, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - ilL 507

Boetius, Kohurger, Germ. Lat., 1473, folio, in the Public
Library at Augsbourg, - - iii. 231

, F, Johannes, 1474, 4to., in the Library of Ste.

Genevieve at Paris, - - iL 348

Bonacenturte Pajkc Medit. Ht. Christi, 1468, G. Zeiner, in

the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - ui. 431

Boni/acH Papa Lihr. Decret, 1465, folio, upon vellum, in
the Library of Molk Monastery, " - - - — 411

, UPON VELLUM, in the

Imperial Library at Vienna, • - — 507

UPON VELLUM, in the Poblic Library at Nurem-

berg, - Sktpplemeni, xet

Bonne Vie, ou Mademe, Chambery, 1485, folio, in the Im-
- perial Library at Vienna, • - — 525

Brandt Navu Stuit, Germ,, 1499, 4to., in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - — 526

Bbbviairb d' Amours, MS. xiiith century, with copper plate

fac-simile, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - — 477-480

BREviAiaa DE Belleville, MS., xivth century, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 174-6

Breviary of John Duke of Bedford, MS. xvth century —

in the Royal Library at Paris — with copperplate fac-simile

of a portion of the Adoration of the Magi, from the same, ii. 176-185
Brbviaire de M. de Monmorenct, MS. xvith century— in

the Emperor of Austria's private collection at Vienna - iii. 592
Breviarhim, ieu de dubiii Casibus in Missa: no date, &c., in

the Public Library at Strasbourg - - - — 63
, Teutonic^, 4to.,'^upoN vellum, copy purchased

of M. Flscheim, at Munich, - - - — 304

Brbviarium Eccl. Libs. MS. ; in tlie Public Library at Caen i. 334
Breydenbach Itinerarium Lat. 1486, folio, in the library of the

Prince of Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, Supplement, xi.
, Itineraire, 1488, folio— in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - , - - iii. 526

Brut d' Anglettere, MS. xivth century — ^in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - — 477

Bud€Bi Comment, in Ling. Gr. 1529, folio— Francis 1st. copy,

upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Pari?, - ii. 295

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS.

Vol. Page.

Burchiello Saneiii, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - iii. 516
Burtrio, AfUfum, de, Adam Rot, 1472, folio, in the library of
Clostemeuburg Monastery, - - iii. 617

Cadeaudei Mttset, - - - ii. 53

Cflfwr, 1469, folio— in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 282

, in the Mazarine Library, - - ii. 367

■ , in the PubKc Library at Munich, - iii. 290

, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library, - iii. 494

, 1471. Jenson, in the library of Gottwic Monastery, iii. 430

, 1472. iS^. and Pannarts, folio, in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - - — 494

Calderi Opus Conciliar. Adam Rot. 1472. Folio, in the

library of Clostemeuburg^ Monastery, - - — 617

Calbndarium, MS., xvith century in the Public Library at

Munich, - - - — 269
, Regiomontani, block book, in the Public Library

at Munich, - - . _ 286

Cancionero General, 1666, 8vo., 1673, 1680. 8vo., at Rouen, i. 153
CaratzuUuM, De Tm. Div. Judic. Arnold de Brtueella, 1473,

folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 607

Castille et Artut d'Algarbe, 1687. 4to., in the Library of the

Arsenal at Ptuis - - - ii. 327.

Catichtsme dei Amant, - - i. 140

, d Pusage des grandes fiUes pour itre marines - — ibid.
Caterinn, da Sienna, 1477, 4to., in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - iii. 617

, de Senis, 1600, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 315
Catholicon, 1460, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Ldbrary

atParis, - - - — 264
, in the Public Library

at Munich, - • - - iii. 290
, G. Zeiner, 1469, folio, upon vellum, in the

Public Library at Munich, - - — 291
^ in the Monastic Library of

Chremsminster, - - - — 374
, upon vellum, in the Monastic

Library of Gottwic, - - - — 428

UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - — 607

FVom the omisuoii to notice oeruin editioDi of woriu, in certain
libraries, the reader fnll not infer that inch libraries are theretoe without
them. Nor does it necessarily follow that they CMlcm them. My object has
been, only to describe such books as, from dioioe, or the particolar inclina-
tions of the librarians, were placed before me in the several libraries risited.

The MSS. are designated by the titles being printed in small capital
letters.

INDEX

OF MANUSCRIPTS,

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS,

DESCBIBRD, QUOTED, OB BEFEBBED TO.

Foi. Page.

AhtMO de Petri^ Conciliator, 1472, folio-^ the Public Library

at Munich, . . . . iii. 392-3

jEnem Silvii Hit$, Bohem, 1475, folio — in the Public Li-

brary at Augsbourg, - - - iii. 228

J5!M^,6y.4to.Edit,prin — ^in the Imperial Library atVienna, — 493
— — Lat. 1475, 4to. V, de mia in the Royal Library at

Stuttgart, - - - - - — 142

Lai. 1480, folio—in the Royal library at Paris, - ii. 296

• Ital, 1485, 7%n, in the same library at Paris, - — 297
LaL 1486, G. de Leeu, foU<h— in the same library, 297

■ fFithaat date, or name of printer, in the same, - 297
ftal. 1491 and 1492, 4to.— in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - - iii. 493

■ Hispan, 1496, folio — in the Royal Library at Puis, ii. 298

Germ, Without date, 8fc., in the same library, - 297

—————————— in the same library, - 298

Lat. 4to. — Prince Eugene's copy in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 493

' no date, fig. lig. incii. (/. Zeiner) in the Royal

Library at Stuttgart, - - - - — 143

JEiopi Fabulm (Fab. ^sopicse) Brandt. 1501, folio copy pur-
chased of Mr. Flscheim at Munich, - . — 304
Acta Sanctorum, 52 vols., folio— in the Public Library at
Rouen, - - - i. 179
■ 20 volumes, in the Chapter Library at Bayeux — 372

three sets of, in the Public Library at Stras-

bouiKf - - - - iiL 73

six sets of, in the Public Library at Munich, — 298

Alain Chartier, paraboles de, Verard, 1492, folio — upon til-

LUM — ^in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 289

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Vd, Page,

AUun Chartier, let faii de, Gerard, no date, folio— In the

Royal Ldbrary at Paris, • -

289

Albert Durer ; original drawings of, in a Book of IVaym,

in the Public library at Munich,

iiL

273

Alcuimu de TrmUate, Mfrnatt. Utimfmrrha, 1500, folio— in

the Public library at Augsbourg, ...

—

233

Aldme Clauki, in tiie PnbUc library at Rouen,

178

, in the Royal library at Paris,

ii.

311^14

, in the Library of St. Generi^e,

—

350

seller, - ....

351

,in the King's Private library at Stuttgart,

ni.

ld5

: — , in the Public Library at Muiuch;

—

296

AleMifuhms GaUui^ vulgb de Filla Dei Doetrinale. V, de

Spkra^ folio— in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

—

502

Almanac kisi&rique — le Meeeager Boitena — a duipbook.

extracts from, ...

ifi.

199

Angdhude Aretit, 1474, IdeSidrano, fbfio— in the Publk

library at Muiuch, . . . .

—

«2

Anti-CMH-^block book^ the PubKc library at Landshut,

—

335

Ambratu HeMomeron, (1460,) hi the library of G5tt^

monastery, - - -

—

429

1472, foU<h— b the PnbKc library at

Augsbourg, - - - ■ -

— —

229

SappleMentf

zzv

Amours, chaue et d^Mri, Ferard, 1509, folio— upon ybllum^

in the Royal library at Pteis,

ii.

287

Angelut de Gamb. Tract Malejlchrum, 1472, fi^o— in the

Public library at Augsbourg,

iii.

232

AfUhohgta GrsBca, 1496, 4to. — upon vsllum, in the li-

brary of Ste. Qenayi^, at Phris,

fi.

349

, 1503, Aldus, 870. upon vbllum, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - -

ii.

311

Anihmui de Burtrio Concilia, Adam Rot, 1472, folio— m the

Royal Library at Stuttgart,

iii.

143

' — , in the li-

brary of Gostemeuberg Monastery,

617

Antonii Archpi Opera Theologica, 1477, Koberget, folio—

in the Publio Library at Strasbourg,

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS.

Fd, Page.

Antomut Sabetticui, m Mumi. Saniiac. 4to.— in the library of

Gdttwic Monastery, - - - - iii. 430

Anion, de S. Greg. Cam. Decret. Pama, 1476, foli<h— in the
Imperial library at Vienna, - - - iii. 602

Apocdiypie, bloch-booi^m the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 266
, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii. 146

, in the library of Odttwic Monastery, — 428

, in the Imperial Library at Vienna^ — 631

, Ital. ReUmger, in the Imperial library at Vienna^ — 483

Apdlinam Ojfred. ado. Mant. B. Gallui, 1478, 4to.— ui the
Lnperial Library at Vienna, ' - - - — 604

ApoHlei Creeds in German, block-book, with he simile— on the
Publicldbrary at Munich, - - . ~ 384

Appiamu Lat, 1472, K de Spira, in the Public Library at
Nuremberg, - - Supplement, zxvi

, Ratdoli. 1478, folio— in the library of the Monas-
tery of St. Florian, - - • - iii 390

, Gr. 1661. folio — ^Diane de Poictiers' copy, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - - • ii. 316-7

Apulehu, 1469, folio— in the Royal library at Plvis,

282

Munich, - -

iii.

290

, UPON VBLLUM, in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, ...

493

, 1472, Jemon, folio— in the last mentioned

library, - - -

493

Aquinas, T., Sec. Secund€B, Sckqeffher, 1467, folio — ^upon

VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

606

Library at Strasbourg,

; , P. de Puzbach. No date, folio

— in the same library, ...

ibid.

, Opus Quartiscript. Schoeffher. 1469, folio—

UPON VELLUM, in the same library.

ibid

, In Evang. Matt, et Marc. 1470, S. and

Pannarig, folio— in the same library.

ibid.

, de virtut. et vUiis. Menielut—ia the Public

Library at Munich, -

289

Arbre des BaUnUes, Verard, 1493, folio — upon vellum.

in the Royal Library at Paris,

286

Ti INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Arettmt it BeUo GMico, 1470, folkH-in the PttbBe Ubrary

atCten, - - . • L 333

Jretimu, L., de Studiit et Litteris, {Unef) 4to.— in the Royil

library at Stuttgart, - - - - iii. 148

Ariitophanes, Gr. Aldm^ 1498, folio, in the Public Library at

Rouen, - - - - • i. 178

AriMtotelii Opera, Gr. Aldui, 1498, 6 toIb. Two copies upon
VBLLUM (the first volume in each copy wanting) in the
Royal library at Phrifl, - - - - ii. 291

Comment EuHraiU, 1636, Akku, foUo, laige pq^

copy in the same collection, - - - — 314

Ethica Nichomackea. Gr. iAUhu) -^remaricably

splendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Plsris,
Eikka. Lai. Menielin. Folio — in the Public

library at Strasbourg, - - • iii. 69

An Memarandi, Bee. — biock book : five copies of, in the

Public library at Munich, - - ^ — 282

' in the Public Library at

Landshut, - . . ^ 335

—————————— in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - — 631
' ^ in the Library of Odttudc

Monastery, - - - • — 428

An Moriendi, Germanki — 4to. — in the Royal library at

Stuttgart, . - - - — 146
, Lat. block book—Kw editions, in the Public

Library at Munich, .... 283

Art de bien Mourir, Ferard, no date, folio — upon yillum,

in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 288

Art and Cm^fte to know well to dye. Canton, in the Royal

Library at Puis, - - - - u. 277

Artus Lb Rot, MS. xiith century, — in the Royal Library

at Puis, - - - - ii. 223

Another MS. of the same Romance, in the same Library, 224
Artasani Summa, (1469) folio — in the Public library at

Augsbourg, - - - - iii. 232

Auguitinui Sti. De Cmtate Dei, 1467, folio — in the Royal

Librar>' at Paris, - . - - - u. 262

■ in the Library

of Ste. Genevieve at Paris, - - - 346

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. vu

fV. Page,

Augu^hMu SU, De Cwitate IM, 1467, folio, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, ...

iii.

483

, in the Library

of dostemeuburg Monastery, - - -

616

1470, folio, in the Public Library at Vlre,

447

f^, de Spira, 1470, folio —

in the Public Library at Rouen, - -

176

________ , UPON YBLLUM,

late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery, - - -

iii.

375

, UPON TBLLUM,

in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

483

— — , upon paper, in

the Library of Gdttrnc Monastery,

in the Public Library at Strasbourg,

Library at Munich, ...

293

Library at Landshut, - - - -

335

■ Sckoeffher, 1473,

toiio— in tne idbrary ot tne monastery oi cnremsminster.

374

folio — UPON YBLLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

483

Eputolit, MefUrlm, folio, three copies, with

different ms. dates, in the Public Library at Mumch,

293

, Menteltn — m the Imperial Library

at Vienna, .....

lU.

484

— — Cot^feuhfwm, Libri XIIL 1476- 4to. — in the

Ii|»perial Library at Vienna,

484

de Triniiate, folio — ^in the same collection.

de arte pr^edicandi. Futt — in the possession of

M. Levrault at Strasbourg, ...

de iingulariUUe Clerieorum, 1467, 4to. — ^in the

King's Private Library at Stuttgart,

163

AuousTiNi Sti. in Psalmos, MS. xvth century — formerly

in the library of Corvinus, King of Hungary, and now in

that of the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

155

Yppan. de Com. Emng. 1473, folio — in the

Public Ldbrary at Augsbourg, ...

232

Aului Gelliui, 1469, folio— in the Royal Library at Paris,

282

viii

INDEX OF &UNUSCRIPTS

rol Page.

Aulut GeUwM, UPON vbllvm, in tbe Imperiftl Ubrmry at

Vienna, - - . - - iU. 493

Ammmhu, 1472, folio— m the Royal Library at Ptaris, u. 282

■ in the Impend Library at Vienna,' - liL 494

, Jkhu^ 1617, Bro. Orolier's copy, on large

paper, in the Royal Library at Puis, - - • ii. 314

Agmon, lei quaireJUg, 1683, 4to. — in the Library of the Ar-
senal, at Ptfis - . - - — 334

Balku, Tract, de QhmL 1477- 4to. in the Pablic Library at
Rouen, - - - - - i. 177

Ballads; Bon Jtmr, Bon Soir : Le yaillant Thmbadour, vol. i.
224 — 7\nffo9iri, 389 ; various, from the Faudevirei of Oli-
vier Bauelin, 436-444 ; Hve Le Roi, Five DAmwtr, ii. 3. ;
N&iuance de Gmlktume le Conqt$erani, ii. 64 ; m arborani
le drtgi>eau Mane, at Falaite, ii. 23 ; le Bauer d' Adieu, 48.;
V/magedela Vie, 49; Le Troubadaw Pariiien,60i Sauve
qmpoMt^bl ; Balade joyeux des Tavemiers, ii. 287.

Bmrtkolus Lectura. F. de Spira, 1471. Folio. In the Impe-

rial library at Vienna, ...

iii.

606

Bmiock, i. Adam de-^Catalogue det Eitampet, par, tfe. 1818.

8?o. - - . . -

606

Boitiano Foreti, 4to.-4n the Imperial Library at Vienna,.

614

Bella (La) Mano, 1474, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, . . . .

5J4

Bellovaceniis Fine. Spec. Hist. 1473, folio; in the Pablic Li-

brary at Rouen, ....

176

' — in the Publio Library at Augs-

iKHirg, - - ...

iii.

233

— in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - ...

iii.

506

Morale, 14/6, folio, in the Public

Library at Strasbourg, - - - -

iii.

Benedictionarius, MS. xith century -in the Public Library

at Rouen, - - - - -

169.175

BerUnghieri, Geografia, folio — in the Imperial Library

(Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, - -

iii.

615

Berinus et Aygres de Lamant, Bonfons, no date, in the li-

brary of the Arsenal at Paris, ...

ii.

336-7

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. ix

Fol Page,

Betmrionii Epklolm, (1469) folio-in the Royal Library at
Stuttgart. - - - ... iii. 143

— ^ — , foHo — in the Imperial library at

Vienna,. - - - - - — 606

Beuarion^ Card. Orai. ad Inclii. lial. Prine. Going. 4to. in

the Imperial Library at Vienna, - . . — 606

BiBLiA Latina, MS. ixth century, of Charles the Bald- in
the Royal Library at Paris, with a copper-plate engraving of
that Monarch's portrait, - - - ii. 166-162

— ■ xiith century, in the same library, - ii. 166

xvth century, of the Emperor fFen-

cetiaui — ^in the Imperial Library at Vienna, with three he-
simile engraved illustrations, - - - iii. 461-463

Bibiia Hitt, Paraphrastica, MS. x?th century, - - ii. 16S-172
Biblk Polyglotta Camplut. 1616, &c. m the Public Library at
Coutances, - - - . . i. 412

^ copy belongingto Diane

de Poictiers, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 316
- copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas,

afterwards that of Eckius, in the Public Library at Land-
shut, - - - - iii. 336
fFaltan ; royal copy, in the Public Library

at Caen, - - - - - i. 336

. with the original de-
dication, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - iii. 138 (noiej

with the original de-
dication, in the Public Library at Stuttgart, - - » 138

• in the Library of the

Monastery of St. Florian, in Austria - - ^ 391

Bil^lia Poljfglotta, LeJay i in the Chapter Library at Bayeux, i. 373
- in the Library of the Lyc6e at do. — 374
■ in the Library of the Hotel de Viile
atSt.Lo, - - - - - — 396

— Hebraica^ edit. Soncini, 1489, in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 486
Houbigant, 1763, in a Private Collec-

tion near Bayeux, - - w - i. 361

■ Hahn, 1806, in the Library of the Mo-

nastery of Clostemeuburg, - - - -iii. 616

Graca, Jidvs, 1618, folio — FVancis Isf s copy, upon

thick paper, in the Royal Library at Pteis^ - - ii. 313

X INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

fW. Page.

nfhiM fwf^^/*A JmljttiM nnt\n t\\itAr nAtiAr in Y^itkmirv fliA
Mjfutm jwHMwSf upuii uuwK pApor^ in uic uiuraiy vx buc

/IrBQiUti M tiBTlS, ....

••
11.

OAS-*

brary at Stuttgart, ....

iii.

162

Rihlin F^ifSiua f^Ali \iam. I^AA ) fftli/i Q «rrk1a ft-orrk «v\iiiMI

sjiviiu MjwtfHif ( rocf . ^CTH#. i^ooy itMiu, i> vuu«y »wu. cupioo Wf

in tlip TI/)va1 TjihrM*v ttt Vtkviu _ _ _

ii.

263

Library at Furis, ....

ii.

364-6

a copy in the Public Li-

111.

*o/

Royal Library at Plans, - - -

11.

ORE

xwyoi ijiurary ai oiimKori, yunuCTivci) - ~

•••
111.

Imperial Library at Vienoa ...

loree copies \iWO upon ytHtLUMf oxui & mira on papery m

tnc liiorary or tne Arsenal at rans« - -

11.

OKI

wt t 1TM fi\nyr tn tVio f >ikraf*ir e\f f^tA ^AtiPinAirP _ .
VBbiiUn curTf 111 iiic liiuriuy ui ofcc. vTCUCvicvCy ~

iia

346

.••
111.

lot

485

Rihlin iMiinn Mtftnki^liwk •— in t)iA l^ihlin f lihrAFV A.t StTAS.

bourg, - . - .

in the Imperial Library at Vi-

enna, - - - - -

486

Eggetleyn, (ms. date, 1468) in the Public

library at Strasbourg, - - -

(ms. date, 1466) in the Public

Library at Munich, - ....

289

. supposed edition of Eggesteyn, in the Public

Library at Strasbourg^ - - - -

, 1476, folio, FrUner, &c. — in the Public Li-

brary at Augsbourir, . . . .

iii.

228

(1475 edit. Gering) imperfect copy in the

Chapter Library i.t Bayeux, -

373

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS.

Vol, Page,

Biblia Latina, Hailirun^ 1476, folio : two copies, of which one

is UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial library atYlenna, - iii. 485

Jemom, 1479. folio, in the Public

Library at Strasbourg, - - . — . 68

UPON VEL-
LUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna -and a second copy
upon paper, ----- 486

' Litt. A - in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - - iii 486

: , 1483, folio, in the PubUc

Library at Rouen, - - - - i. 177

— . , 1486, folio, in the Public

Library at Caen, - - - - i. 333

: Froben, 1496, 8vo. in the Public

Library at Vire, — 447

BiUia Germanica, Mentelin, folio — in the Royal Library at
PMt», ii. 256

— — — ■ in the Public Library

at Strasbourg, - - - - --iii. 55

■ two copies, in the Pubfic

Library at Stuttgart, - - - . _ 137

■■ — • two copies in the Public
Library at Munich, - - - - - — 287

. in the Public library at

Landshut, - - - . . — 334

in the Library at Clos-

temeuburg Monastery, - - - - — 616

. —— in the Public Library

atRatisbon, - - Supplement, xw

• — — imperfect copy, (ms. date

of 1467) in the Library of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, at
Ratisbon, - - - Supplement, — xi

■ in the Public Library at

Nuremberg, - - Supplement, — xxv

iuppated fint edition, in the

Public library at Landshut, - - . — 334

, iuppased fint edition, folio, in the library

of Gottwic Monastery, - - - - — 428

, Sorgr, Augibourg, 1477» folio, in the Li-
brary of Professor Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, - - — 196

xu INDEX OF MANUSGRIFT8

BfbUa Germamea, Swrg, AugdKmrg, 1477, folio, in the Ii>

biwy of the Monastery of St. Floriftn,

ill*

390

, Peffpui^ 1624, folio— ^PON tsllum, in

the Royal Libnuy at Stuttgart, - - -

—

137

BiUki Italica; KiUend. AugtuH, 1471— Iblio— in the Mazarine

Library, at Puia, - ...

366

in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

iiL

loo

Kalend. Odobris, 1471, folio — in the Library

of Ste. Genen^fe, at nurii, ...

346

— — in the Royal li-

brary at Stuttgart, - ...

ui-

138

—————— in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - - -

4oD

1477, folio, in the Library of Gdttwic Mo-

nastery, ... -

428

Btbl Hut. Fenet. 1492, fobo — p copy purchased of M. Fls-

cheim at Munich, ...

304

AMwr Bohemka, 1488, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris,

267

Polonica, 1663, folio — in the same Library,

— ■

266

in the Royal Library at Stutt-

gart, .... -

iiL

137

copy purchased by the Author at

iO.

228

— — — in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

—

488

1699, folio— in the Library of Ste. Genevieve,

ii.

347

- Nungarwa, 1666, folio— mcomplete, m the King's Pri-

Tate Library at Stuttgart, ...

iii.

16M

, 1626, folio, in the Public Library at Straa-

Sclavonica,\6B\, folio, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

139

, 1684, in the Public Library at Stras-

bourg, .....

, 1687, folio— in the Royal Library at Paris,

267

Bible, La Sainie, 1669, folio ; large paper copy in the Public

Library of Caen, - . .

336

BiBLiA — ^HisTORiCA, MS, vernbui germamcit. Sec. xiv. — in

the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

iiL

162

■ Aurea, Lti, /. Zemer, 1474, folio — in the Library of

Chremsminster Monastery,

376

AND OP PRINTED BOOKS.

xiii

Fal. Page.

BihUa Pauperum^ bhck book : in the Royal library at Paris, ii. 256
, printed by Pfister, in the same, - — 261

, block book, Cterman, — in the Royal Li-
brary at Strasbouq^, - - - - iii. 146
, Latine, first edition, in the same Library, — 147

block book — one German, and two Latin

editions, in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 283
, Lat. in the Library of Gdttwic Monas-
tery, - - - - - — 428
> in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 531

Biography, Rotal, op France — xvith century — magnifi-
cent MS. in the Royal Library at Paris, ' - , - ii. 216

Blasphemateun du nam de Dieu, an ancient morality, in Svo.,
without date — discovered in the vicinity of Rouen, i. 159 —
and fully described, with copious extracts, from the same
unique copy in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 302-310

Blazonry op Arms, Book op — xivth century, with he-

simile portrait of Leopold de Sempach — in the Imperial Li- ^
brary at Vienna, - - - - iiL 4744»

Block books; at Paris, i. 255; at Stuttgart, iii. 146; at Mu-
nich, iii. 279 ; at Landshut, iii. 335 ; at 05ttwic Monastery,
iii. 428 ; at Vienna, iii. 531.

BOCACB, DES CaS DE8 NOBLES H0MME8 & FeMMES, MS.

xTth century, in the Royal Library at P^, - - ii. 212

' ■ two more

MSS. of the same work, in the same Library, - - ^ 214

Boccace Ruine» des Nobles Hommes, 4^. 1476, Colard Mm^

eion, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - — 280

Boccaccio II Decamerone, 1471, Faldaffer, folio — in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 279

, 1472, A, de Michaelibui, folio, in

the Royal Library in Paris, - - - ibid,

in the Public Library at Nurem-

berg, - - . - Supplement^ xxy
' , 1476, Zarohu, folio, b the Impe-
rial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 615
- Deo Gracioi, Sine Anno : /hrem edk.

/>rtii. in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 291

-, Nimpkale, 1477, 4to., in the Royal Library at

Stuttgart, . - - 146

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPT8

Boocaecio, de CJar, Mulier. (1470, qu. }) folio, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - iii. 507

Boetius, Koburger, Germ. Lat., 1473, folio, in the Public

Library at Augsbourg, - - iii. 231
, F. Johannet, 1474, 4to., in the Library of Ste.

Geneneve at Paris, - - ii. 348

Bonacenturte Papa Medit. Fit. ChrUti, 1468, G. Zeiner, in

the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - iii. 431

Bam/acii Papa Libr. Decret. 1465, folio, upon vbllum, in

the Library of Molk Monastery, - - - — 411
, UPON TBLLUM, in thc

Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 507

— , UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Nurem-

berg, • SupplemefU, xzr

Bonne Pie, ou Madenie, Chamber^, 1485, folio, in the Im-
• perial Library at Vienna, - - — 525

Brandt Navis Stult. Germ., 1499, 4to., in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - — 526

Bbbviairb d' Amours, MS. xiiith century, with copper plate

fac-simile, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - — 477*480

Bretiairb de Bellbvillb, MS., xivth century, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 174-6

Breviary of John Dukb of Bedford, MS. xvth century —

in the Royal Library at Paris — frith copperplate fac-simile

of a portion of the Adoration of the Magi, from the same, ii. 176>185
Brbviairb de M. de Monmorbnct, MS. xvith century — in

the Emperor of Austria's private collection at Vienna - iii. 592
Brevhrium, seu de dubiis Casibw in Misia: no date, &c., in

the Public Library at Strasbourg - • - — 63
, Teutonic^, 4to.,'upoN vellum, copy purchased

of M. Flscheim, at Munich, - - - — 304

Brbviarium Eccl. Li88. MS.; in the Public Library at Caen i. 334
Breydenbach Itinerarium Lai. 1486, folio, in the library of the

Prince of Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, Supplement, xi.
, Itineraire, 1488, folio— 4n the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - , - - iii. 526

Brut d' Anglbttere, MS. xivth century — ^in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - — 477

Bud^ei Comment, in Ling. Gr. 1529, folio— Francis 1st. copy,

UPON vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 295

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS.

rol Page.

Burcfuello Sonetti, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - iii. 516
Burtrio, Anthon, de, Adam Rot, 1472, folio, in the library of

Closterneuburg Monastery, - - iii. 617

Cadeau des Mutes^ ...

ii.

Ctetar, 1469, folio— in the Royal Library at Paris,

ii.

282

, in the Mazarine Library,

ii.

367

, in the Public Library at Munich,

iii.

290

, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library, -

iii.

494

, 1471. Jenton, in the library of G6ttwic Monastery,

iii.

430

, 1472. S. and Pannartz, folio, in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - -

494

Calderi Opus Concilior. Adam Rot. 1472. Folio, in the

library of Clostemeuburp^ Monastery,

617

Calbndarium, MS*, xvith century in the Public Library at

Munich, - - •

269

, Regiomontani, block book, in the Public Library

at Munich, - -

286

Canchnero General, 1566, 8vo., 1573, 1580, 8to., at Rouen,

153

Caratzullus, De Tim. Dir. Judic. Arnold de Brucella, 1473,

folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

iii.

507

Coitille et Arttu d'Algarbe, 1587. 4to., in the Library of the

Arsenal at Paris - - -

ii.

327.

Catickiime des Amans,

140

, ^ ttuage des grandet filles pour itre marines

ibid.

Caterina, da Sienna, 1477. 4to., in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, ...

iii.

617

ii.

315

Catholicon, 1460, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library

atParis, - - -

264

, in the Public Library

at Munich, - • - -

iii.

290

, G. Zeiner, 1469, folio, upon vellum, in the

Public Library at Munich,

291

, in the Monastic Library of

Chremsminster, - - -

374

, UPON VELLUM, in the Monastic

Library of Gbltwic, - -

428

, UPON VELLUM, iu thc Imperial

Library at Vienna,

507

x?i INraX OF MANUSGRlPn

OlMkm, 1488, folio, in the IHd^ -

178

^ without date, &c., in Hie Pablic libivy tt

Stmbomf , ...

iiL

^ wkkmU dtie, folio, in the Imperial I^bnoy

at Vienna, . . .

(ktomt Etkica, 1477, folio, in the Royal Ubiury at Stuttgart,

164

, a. Zeiner) no date, in the Public Library al

Straibounr,*

C§hi!hu, T^Mhu, Pnpertims, 1472, in the Royal Library at

Ptfii,

282

, in the Maiarine Library,

367

' , in the Public library al

Strasbourg, -

iiL

, 1473, folio, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna,

494

CtuH^ bookiprmied ^, in the Royal Library at Puis,

iL276^^

iiL

632

CeUitma Commedia de, Anvtn^ 18mo., in the library of the

Arsenal at Paris, - - -

332

Ckaucef^t Book of Ftme, Caxton^ folio, in the Iihperial

LAnrary at Vienna, ...

iu.

532

Chi88, Game of, metrical German verthn of, MS., see. xv..

in the Royal Library at Stuttgart,

154

Chevalier Delibre, 1488, 4to., in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, ...

526

Chevalier au Lion, MS., 1470, in the Royal Library at

Stuttgart,

155

Chivalry i see ToumametUs,

Ckriiien de Mechel, Gat. des Tableaux de la Galerie imp. et

roy. de Vienna, 1781, 8vo.,

573

Ghroniqub de Louis XI., MS., xvith century, in the

Imperial Library at Vienna,

iiL

480

Chronicon Ponii/teum, 1474, 4to., in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - -

507

Public Library at Strasbourg,

Hungarim, 1485, 4to., in the Public Library at

Augsbourg, ...

229

Chromcon Normbergente, 1493, folio, quoted, or

referred to, iiL 219, 237, 356, 536, Supplememi,

ix.

ANI> OP PRINTED BOOKS.

/V.

Page.

Ckrwmieon Goitwicmtt, 173S» Mio^ 2 volt., womt aooowil

of this nre and vifauible work*

iiL

Cmysolcrmi ErUemmtm, Gr, edit. priiL 4to.y in the Impenai

library at Yiennay

509

CAfyif /owt Gnmmw/., Crr. 1529, folio, copy of Diane de

Poictiers,* in the P^lic Ldbrary at Caen,

(^eer^ de O/icn*^ 1465, 4to., upon tellum , from a private

collection in toe vosges, now in tnat of tne KeT. U. Lfnuy*

2SS

70.

, 1465, 4to., two copies cpom ybllcm, in

the imperial Library at Vieiina,

iiL

494

, 1466, 4to., upon paper, m the Mannne

liUxrary at Fans,

367

, 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the Ro3raI

Uifaryat Stuttgart, - - -

iii.

I4U

collection, -

, i/ildut), Syo., upon vellum, in the Royal

Library at Paris, - -

312

~, Efiutolm mi Fmmlmm^ 1467» fobo, CanUnal Bes-

sarion's copy, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

iiL

1 AC€% O ——J -- -

lOHO^ m tne same liiDrary, - - -

fVNf.

f<dio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg,

■ , 1469, /. ae Sptra^ m the

itoyal idorary at otuttgart.

140

177

^ , 15Q2, Aldus, 8vo., upon vellum, in

the possession of M. Renouard, bookseller.

ii.

395

-^Cicero^ de OraUire, Monuit. SouMac., folio, in the Library

of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris,

ii.

346

, f - de Spira, folio, in the Public Library

at Strasbourg, - -

iii.

1 , in the In^ierial Li-

brary at Vienna, . . -

496

— ^ — ^ Opera PkUa§ophica, Ulric Nan, folio, in the Public
Library at Munich, ...

290

brary at Vienna, - - .

495

xvHi

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

rol. Page,

Cicero, Opera Philotophica, typ. Auionii, 1472, in the
Library of Gottwic Monastery - - iii. 431

, De Xatura Deorum, V. de Spira^ 1471, foUo, in the

Mazarine Library, at Paris, - - ii. 367

, Rhetorica foetus, Jenson, 1470, folio, upon vellum.

in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Pftris, - - — 34s

1 UPON TSLLUM,

in the Ini])erial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 496

Oraiionei, S. and Pannartz^ 1471, folio, in the

Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 496

-, raldar/er, 1471, folio, upon tillum.

(wanting one leaf) in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. - 295
, perfect vellum copy, in the

possession of Mr. Renouard, bookseller, - - — 394
, 1519, ^Idus, 8vo. , u po N ve llu m , firs t yolume

only, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - iL 312
, perfect copy, upon vellum.

in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, - - iL 351

Pediani Comment, und cum Trapezuni.

de art. Cicer. orat. (/. de Colonk) 1477, folio, in the Public
Library at Strasbourg, • - - iu. 67

-, Opera Omnia, 1498, folio, 4 vols., in the Library of

Ste. Genevifcve, at Paris, - - ii. 349

, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - — 496

1534, Giunta, folio, singular copy in

the Royal Lil)rary ut Paris, - - ii. 317

Cid, el Caralero, 1627, 4lo., in the Library of the Arsenal,
at Paris : bound with Seffs Romances del Cid Ruy Diaz de
Hevar, 1627, 4to. - - - ii. 330

Cite pk Diev, MS., in the Royal Ubrary at IVis, - ii. 204-209

Citk des Dames, (Frrard) folio, upon vellum, in the Impe-
rial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 626

Clement. Pap. Coftstit. 1468, rpoN vellvm, in the Imperial
Library at Vienna, - - — 506

Compendium Morale, folio, upon vellum, unique copy,
late in the possession of the Baron Der^chau, at Nuremberg,

Supplement, xxxiv.

Con/essionale, Arnol irs, 1473, 4lo., in the library of Gottwic
Monastery, - - - iii. 430-1

C08TENTIX Du, MS., in the Public Library at Caen, - i. 334

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS.

xix

Fol.^ Page,

Cotman, Mr., character of his Anglo-Norman Antlquitieg,

preface, p. viii. See Genbral Index,
Cotutumier Grand, de Normandie, in the Public Library at

St. Lo, in NcMinandy, - > - i. 39S

CouTANCES, MS., biographical details connected with, in

the Public Library at Caen, - - — 336

Ccutumet Anciennes, 1672, 12mo. at Caen, - - — 336

Craitom Lecncon, 1481, Gr. and Lat., folio, in the Library of

Professor Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, - - iii. 194
^ . Gr. and Lat,, 1499, folio, in the Library

of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, Supplement, xi
Cronica del Cid. Seville, 4to., in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - — 627

Cronica del rey Don Juan, Seville y 1663, 4to., copy pur-
chased of Mr. Fischeim, at Munich, - - — 304
Cronique de France, 1493, Ferard, i:pon vcllum, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - • ii. 284
de Florimont, 1629, 4to. — in the Library of the

Arsenal at Paris, - - - — 336
de Cleriadus, 1629, 4to., — in the Library of the

Arsenal at Paris, - - — 337

Daigremont et Fknan, 1638, 4to., in the Library of the

Arsenal, at Paris, - - — 338

Dance of Death, MS., with wood cuts, in the Public Library

of Munich, - - iii. 278-9

Dante, Numeiiter, 14/2, folio, in the Mazarine Library
at Paris, - - - - - ii. 368

. — , in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - iii. 618

Petrtu Adam, 1472, folio, in the Library of Ste.

Genevieve, at Paris, - - - - ii. 348

-, Neapoli, Tuppi, folio, in the Royal Library

at Stuttgart, - - - iii. 144

-, Milan, 1478, with the comments of G. Tu-

zago, folio, in the same collection, - - — ibid,

1481, folio, imperfect copy, in the Public Library

at Augsbourg - iii. 231

-, perfect copy, with twenty copper plates.

in the Public Library at Munich, - - - — 291

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Dante, 1481, folio, with xx, cc^perplates, in tbe Imperial li-

bwry at Vienna, - - iii. 618

Diuffpodhu Conrad^ his treatise on the clock in Strasboiuip

Cathedral, - - - - - — 33

Datti Elegant iolof, cum quibusd. aliU opuic, grammat., 4to.

no date, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - — 141

Decor Puellantm, Jenmm^ 1461, 4to., in the Imperial Li-

brary at Vienna, - - - - — 518

Dtfemio Immac. Concept. B, V. Af. 1470, block book, in the

Public Library at Munich, - - - — 286

De Ftde Concubinamm in Sacerdot. 4to., late in the possession

of M. Koch, of Manheim, Supplement, IyL

Delphin Claisia, fine set of, in the library of Chremsminster

Monastery, - - - . ^ 376

Demoithenet, Gr.^ 1604, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, i. 179
Der rets Ritter, 1614, folio, unique copy, in the PubHc

Library at Landshut, - - - - iii. 337

Dictionarium Pauperum, Colon. 1604, 8?o., copy purchased

of M. Flscheim, at Munich, - - . — 304

Dion Cassiuif 1648, Gr. folio, edit, prin., Diane de Poictiers

copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 316-7

Dio Chryiottom. de Regno, Valdarfer, 4to., upon vellum,

in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna, - iii. 693

Dionysius Halicarnatsensit, Gr., 1646, folio, Diane de Poic-

tierd' copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 317

DioscoRiDES, Grace, MS., vith century, in the Imperial

Library at Menna, - - - - - iii. 471-3

D1VBRTI88MENT8 TOucHANT LA GUERRE, MS., in the Public

Library at Caen, - - - - i. 334

Doolin de Mapence, Paris, Bonfont, 4to. in the Library of the

Arsenal, - - - . - - ii. 339

Donatus : several early editions of, in the Public Library at

Munich, - - - - - iii. 294
, 4to. — {Bamler) in the Library of the Prince of

Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, - Suppletnent, z

Duns Scotus, I. de Rheno, 1473, folio — in the Library of

Gottwic Monastery, - - - - iii. 431
Durandi Rationale, 1469, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 266
, in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - - - ui» 608

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. x

Foi. Page.

Durandi Rationale, 1459, folio, in the Public Library at Nu-
remberg, .... Supplement y — xxv

, 1474, /. Zetner, folio, in the Library of

Chremsminster Monastery, - - - - iiL 375

, fTtthout Date, Litt, R. m the Public Li-

brary at Strasbourg, - - - - — 63

Speculum Judieiale, H«unet\ 1473, folio— in the

Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - — 59

EcHECs Amorsux, MS. folio— with copper-plate fius-simile —
in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 209

Echec Jeu de,{Ferard) no date — upon tbllum, in the Royal
Library at Paris, - - - - — 286

Ein nuizlich btkchlin, Augi., 1498, 4to. — in the Imperial Li-
brary at Vienna, - . - - - iii. 527

Eratmut ejtpurgatu* iuxta cent. Acad. Lotan. 1579, folio, in the
Public Library at Augsbourg. See TVf/imi^. AVmM, 1516. — 234

EvAKGELiA QuATUOR, Lat. MS. vith century, in the Royal

Library at Paris, - - - ii. 155-6
VII ith century, in the Library

of Chremsminster Monastery, - - iii. 377-9

ixth century, belonging to

the Emperor Lotharius, with engraving of his portrait, ii. 163-166

ixth century— in the Public

Library at Munich, - - - iii. 259-261
xith century, inthe same Li-
brary, - - - - — 262

zth century, in the Public

Library at Landshut, - - . — 333

— xith century — in the Royal

Library at Stuttgart, - - .... 143

xvth century, in the Im-
perial Library at Vienna - . ... 464

Eyangelium Sti. Iohannis, MS. Lat. xith century, in the
Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 173

Evangelia cum EpUtolU : ItaL folio — in the Library of Gdtt-
wic Monastery, - . . - iii. 428

Euclides, 1482, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at
Paris, - - . - . iL 294

, four varying copies of, in the Public

Library at Munich, - - iiL 290

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

rd. Page

Euripides, Gr., 1603, Jldui-^vpov vellum, in the Royal Li-

braiy at Pari9, - - - - ii. 311
, Hecuba et Iphigenia in Jul. Gr. and Lat. 1507,

8vo. UPON VELLUM, in the same Library, - - — iM,

Eustathiui in Hwnerum, 1542, folio — upon yellum, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 292
upon paper, in the

same collection, - - - - - — 316
, 1559, folio, fine copy, upon paper,

in the Public Library at Caen, - - - i. 337

Eutropiui, 1471, Lover, folio — in the Kmff's Private Library

at Stuttgart, - iii. Id2

Exhortation against the Turks (1472) in the Public Library at

Munich, - - - - - — 282

Eyb. Margarita Poetica, 1472, folio— in the Public Library at

Strasbourg, - - - - — 62

Fait de la Guerre, C. Mansion, folio— in the Royal Library at

Ptais, - - - - - ii. 280

Fazio Dita Mundi, 1474, folio — in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - - iil 518

Fichi'ti Rhetorica — Gering—4to. — upon vellum, in the Im-
perial Library at Vienna, - - - — 509
Fiorio e Biancijiore, Bologna, 1480, folio — in the Library of

the Arsenal, at Paris, - - - - ii. 331

Fierbras, 1486, folio— Prince Eugene's copy), in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - - - iii. 528

Flos Sanctorum, 1582, folio — in the Public Library at Rouen, i. 179
Fontaine Contes de la, copy of in the Chapter Library at

Bayeux, - - - - - i. 372

Fortalitium Fidei — folio — no date — in the Public Library at

Munich : curious printed advertisement in this copy, - iii. 295
Frezzi II Quadriregio, 1481, folio— in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - . - — 518

Fulgosii Anteros — 1496 — folio— in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - - - — 518

Funrrailleh deh Reineh de France, MS. folio — in the

Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna, - - — 592

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxiii

Fol Page.

Gaientu, Or. \S25, folio, ^Idus — large paper copy, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 314

F. Oaffcrii Laud. Harm. Inst. MS. XFith century — in the
Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna, - - - iii. 692

Galien et Jaquehne, 1525, folio— in the Library of the Arsenal,
at Paris, - - - - - ii. 3^3

Gallia Christiana, 1732, folio, in the Chapter Library at
Bayeux, - - - - - i. 373

Garnet of Cheu, Caxton, folio, 2d. edit. — in the Imperial Li-
brary at Vienna, - - - - iii. 632

Genesis — ^MS. of the ivth . century— fragmentt of Chapters of,
account of — with fac-simile lUuminations, in the Imperial
Library at Vienna, - - - - — 457

Gerard, Comte de Nevers, 1526, 4to. — in the Library of the
Arsenal at Paris, - - ' - - ii. 336

Germanicar. Rer. Tres Script. Select. 1707, folio — referred to, iii. 363

(?wrffii/^iViVfa»o,(5-c. 1726— referred to, - — 366-378

Gesta Romanorum, MS. xivth century, in the King's Pri-
vate Library at Stuttgart, - - - - — - 163

Geyler, Navic. Fat. 1511, 4to — in the Public Library at
Augsbourg, - - - - — 233

Gloria Mulierum, Jenson, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at
Vienna, - - - - - — 619

Godfrey of Boulogne, Caxtm, folio — in the Imperial Library
at Vienna, - - - - — 632

Graal, St., MS. in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 223

Grammatica Rhythmica, 1466, folio— in the Royal Library at
Paris, — 264

Grandidier, Essai Hist, et Topog. sur PEglise CathMrale de
Strasbourg, 1782, 8vo. - - - iii. 17-18

Gratian Opus. Deeret. Schoeffher, 1470, folio, upon vellum,
in the Library of Gottwic monastery,* - - iii. 428

, Schoeffher, 1472, folio, upon vellum, in

the Library of Closterneuburg monastery, - - — 617

Gregorii Opera, Germ. 1483, folio, in the Library of Professor
Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, - - - - — 193

• I doubt whether there be any such edition, or whether the ensuing, by the same
printer, be not here intended.

IHUEX OP MANUSCaUPTS

(ffiMlrfif, 6'0fw.« 1*483, 4to., wood ^to, in th^ '

fiessor Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, - . •HI. Mi'

9 1471, 4to., widuMit aiti, in the same collee-

tion. Set Petrmrcka, - . . — iM

GuilUmme 4e Pdeme, 1552, 4to., in the Ldbrary of the Aise-

nal: tocher edition, 1634, 4to., - . B. "SS^S

Gulklmui de Saiketo, Ital 1474, folio, in the Libraiy of

GMwic Monastery, - - . . _ 451

Gnu de fFarwich, no date, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal

atFvis, . - . . - ii. 326

Gjfnm Le Comriojfi, no date, Fierard, upon vellum, in the

Royal library at Pkris, - . - ii. 284

N&rtHei^i Chirmaney, block book, m the Royal Library al
Ptois, . - - - it 266

, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 531 '

ffmberim, Aualecta Medu ^ei, 1734, 12mo., copy in the pos-
session of Professor Siebenkees at Strasbourg - ui. 80
Hekyne La Belle, 1528, 4to., in the library of the Arsenal at

Pteis, - - - - ii. 339

Hector de Troye, Amoullet, 4to. in the Library of the

Arsenal at Paris, - - . _ 340 /'

Herborwm Mogunt,, 1484, 4to., in the Pablic Labrary at Caen, i. 325
Hermann, Noiicet Hutoriques, StatUHquet, et Litt^hrei mr

la FUle de Strasbourg, - - - iii. 3, &c.

Heuret, printed by Fottre, fine copy of, in the Public library

at Caen, - - - - i. 336

Herodotus, Gr. 1502, Aldus, folio, large paper copy in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 316

HiSTORiA B. M. V1R01NI8, MS., folio, xvth century, with
engraving of the portrait of Louisa of Savoy, therefrom, in
the Public Library at Paris, - - - - H. 186-188

, block book, folio, in the Royal

Library at Paris, - - - — 266

in the Royal Library

at Stuttgart, - - - - - . — 146

-, in the Public Library

at Munich, - - - - ill. 286

in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - - . — 631

AND OP PRINTED BOOKS.

xxxix

rd. Page.

Repertwium, N, deMilU, 1475, folio, in the Library of Gott-

wic Monastery, - - - iii. 432
Richard sam Peur, Janot, no date, 4to., in the Library of the

Arsenal at Paris, - - - - S. 325

, Bon/ofu, no date, 4to., in the same Library, ibid.

, chapbook, — at Rouen and Contances, - i. 409
Robert le Diable, Janot, no date, 4to., in the Library of the

Arsenal at Paris, - - . - ii. 326
Romancero General, 1492, folio, in the possession of Madame

Debure, at Paris, - - - - ii. 388

Romancei, MS,, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - — 217-229

, printed, in the same Library, - - ii. 284-288

, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - iii. 64-6,&c

, in the Public Library at Munich, - — 263, &c.

/ZewMtfrrf, 1584, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, - i. 337
RosB Roman de la, MS. xmh century, in the Royal Library

at Paris, . . - ii. 224
, Ferard, no date, upon vellum, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - — 285
Rotseioptu elegam, ^c., Pyntm, 1523, 4to., the author's

copy, afterwards that of Sir Thomas More, in the Public

Library at Landshut, - - - iiL 337
Ruberto Quadrageiimale, 1479, 4to., in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - • - iii, 524

Sacramentarium, seu Missa Pap, Greg., MS., vith cen-
tury, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 469

Salluitius, 4to., edit. pr'm. in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 499

, Gering, 4to., in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - 500

Sanchez de Matrim. Sacram., copy in the chapter Library at
Bayeux, i. 373, in the Library of the Lyc^, at Bayeuz, i. 374

Sannazarii Arcadia, 1514, Aldtu, 8vo., Grolier's copy, on
large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 314

Sannazarius de partu Firginis, Aldi, 1527, 12mo. in the

King's Private library at Stuttgart, - - iiL 165

Saxoferrato Ditputationei de-^F. de Spira, 1472, folio, in
the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - . — . 143

, 1470, folio, in the Public Li-
brary at Munich, - - - - — 292

xxn INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

fW. Ptige,

HoRATius, MS.y xiith century, in the Ubniy of Molk Mo-
nastery, - - - - - in. 412

, Edit prin. 4to., in the Pnblic Ubrwy al Augi-

bonrg, - - - - — 228

, 1492-8, folio, in the Public library at Rouen, - L 179

1498, folio, in the Public library al Stras-

bourg, - - - - iii.

1501, jildus, 8?o., UPON VBLLUM , in the Royal

Library at Puu, - • - - iL 312
, UPON VBLLUM, in thc Public

Library at Munich, - - - iii. 296

Horloge de Sapience^ Verard, 1493, folio, upon vbllum, in

the Royal Library at Pkris, - - - iL 285

HoRTUs Dbuciarum, MS., xiith century, in the Public Li-
brary at Strasbourg, - - - iii. 52
HoKTULus Anima, MS., xvth century— with five fiM>4imile
copper plate engravings therefrom, in the Imperial Library
at Vienna, ... . . . — 467-471

, 1498, 12mo., in the King's Private li-
brary at Stuttgart, - - - — 162
Ratarum, 1499, 8vo., in the Public Library

atAugsbourg, - - - - — 233

Huet, Demanttrat. Evang. 1690, (1679?) foUo, unique copy in

the Public Library at Caen, - - - i. 337

Huon de Bourdeaux, four editions of, in the Library of the

ArRenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 333

Isocrates, Gr., Aldui, 1534, folio, large pi^r copy in the
Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 314

Jiuany Rotnan de, printed hy Ctupton, in the Royal Library at
Rffis. . - - . . — 250

, same edition, in the Library of the Arsenal

at Paris - - - - - — 322

lehan de Saintri, Bon/on* , no date, 4to., in the Library of
the Arsenal at Paris, - - - — 336

Paris, Bon/ons, no date, 4to., in the same col-
lection, - - - - - — 337
, Paris, 1600, 4to., in the same, - — ibid.

Jbrome, St., V^e, Mort, et Miracles de, MS., xTth cen-
tury, in the Royal library of Stuttgart, - - m. 153

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxv

Fol. Page,

leronimi EpUtoUt, 1468, 5. and Patmartz, folio, in the
Public Library at Rouen, - - - i. 176

, UPON TBLLUH, in the Imperial
Library at Vienna, - - - - iii. 488

, 1470, S. and Pan, folio, in the li-

brary of dostemeuburg Monastery, - — 617

in the Public Library at

Nuremberjir^ - - - Supplement, xxv.

1470, Schoeffher, in the Public Li-

brary at Strasbourg, - » - iii. 61

- — , Mentelin, in the Public Library

at Strasbourg, - - - - — 62

, in the Pttblic library
at Nuremberg, - - Supplement, xxv.

Parmte, 1480, folio, in the

Public Library at Augsbourg, - - ill 228

Joiephui, Lat., 1470, Schuzler, folio, two copies, someidiat
difiering from each other, in the library of Fh)fes8or Vee-
senmeyer, at Ulm, - . - - - — 193

— — , 1480, folio, in the Library of the Monastery

of St. Florian, - - - . - — 390

Gallic^, 1492, folio, in the Imperial Library at

Vienna,

Jourdain de Blave, Paris, Chretien, no date, 4to., in the
Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - ii. 339

Jouvencel le, 1497, f^erard, folio, upon vellum, in the
Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - ilL 528

Juitinus, 1479, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, - i. 177

Juvenalis, folio, K de Spira, edit. prin« in the Public li-
brary at Strasbourg, - - - iii. 68

— — , Ulric Han, typ, grand, folio, in the Imperial
Library at Vienna, - - ' - . — 496

, 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, - i. 334

, /. de Ftvizano, folio, in the Imperial Library at
Vienna, - iii. 497

Kentzinger, Documem Hittariques relat\fi d thistaire de
France, tires desj4rchivetde la nilede Strasbourg, - iiL 9

uviii INDEX OF MANUSGR1PX6.

Lactantii Imtituiionet, 1465, folio, in the Royal Library at

Paris, - - - -

ii.

262

Genevieve, - - -

345

at Vienna, - - - -

489

, 1470, S, and Pmmarts, folio, in the

Mazarine Library at Paris, ...

367

' , 1478> folio, in the Poblic Library at

Strasbourg, - - ...

iiL

Imperial Library at Vienna, . . .

489

Lancelot du Lac, MS., xivth century, in the Royal Li*

brary at Paris, u. 217: another MS. of about the same

period, in the same Library, ii. 219 : another MS. in the

same library, - •

ii.

220

, 1488, Verwd^ folio, in the In^ierial

Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, - . -

iii.

528

the Royal Library at Paris, ...

ii.

284

the Imoerial Libiw fit Vienna - - -

iii.

528

LaicarU Gram. Grac. 1476, 4to., in the Royal Library

at Paris, - . - - -

281

Laurentiui ralla, Jemoo, 1471, folio, in the Library of

Gottwic Monastery, - . - .

iii.

431

Leges Bavarica, MS., xiiith century, in the Public Li-

brary at Landshut, ....

334

Legenda Aurea, (ten Sanctorum) Ital. Jeman, 1476, folio, in

the Mazarine Library at Parif, - - -

ii.

365.6

, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, -

iiL

519

, 1486, folio— in the Public Library at Rouen,

177

, 1475, Gertng, folio, in the Public library

at Caen, - . . - -

334

Leanii Papa Sermones, 1470, folio, in the possession of M.

Le PreTOSt, at Rouen^ - - -

153

Lfs Dewe Amant, Ferard, 1493, 4to., in the Imperial

Library at Menna, ....

iu.

528

AMI OF PRINTED BOGKS. sdz

Lusm GsxsRATiONis Iks. Xti. MS. Tuth century : in the

Royal Ulmiry at PHris, - - iL 172

IMfr Modmrtm ngni/Scmdi^ 1480, Si. Albmu, —in the Royal

Library at IHurifl, - - . — 278

MomHtai. Bibl. 1474, Ulm, folio — copy pordiaaed of

M. Fischeim, at Munich, - - - iiL 304

LiUr 1518, folio; copy of, with ms. notes of

B«diart, in the Public Library at Caen, - - i. 337
1 two copies of, one iqKm large

paper, in the Public Library at Nancy, - - ii. 643
Lnum Prbcum, cum noi, 9f cami, MS. pervet, in the Royal Li-
brary at Puris, - — 173
, MS. XTth century, in the Public Library at

Mnnidi, - - - - - iu. 272

Liber Begwm, seu Fiia DavieRt — block book—hk die bnperial

Lflnary at Vienna, - - - - — 631

Z.^4re^(^/,^i(^A— in the Public Library at Munidi, iiL 279
jUgynrmi Poet, cknr. 1607, folio — in the Minster Library at

Ulm, - - - - . — 187

LMtletoti^i Temtree, LetUm, &c folio— in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - . — 632,

IMmrgia Suecmue Eccleeim, 1676, folio-4n the Library of the

Anenal at Paris, - - - iL 324

LmuB, MS. ZYth century — in the Imperial Library at

Vioina, - - - - - iii. 473

, 1469, folio,— in the Royal Library at Pkris, - ii, 274

, — ^in the Public Library at Munich, - iii, 290

, 1470, y. de Spira, folio, upon ybllum, in the Royal

library at P^, - - - - ii. 276
upon pi^er, in the same

library, - - - - - — 276

• in the Library of Goster-

neoburg Monastery, - - - - iiL 616

, 1472, S, and Pann,, folio, in the same Collection, - — 276
Litre Historial, MS. Auct. B. du Guesclin ; in the Public

Library at Rouen, - - - - L 174-6

Lombardi Petri Sentent. (JEggeiteyn), folio, in the library

of Clostemeuburg Monastery, - - - iii. 617

Imcos Cranach, his Book of Ptayers, with original drawings

by, in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 273

xzx

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

rd. Page.

Lucanui, 1469, folio-^ the Publk Libnry at Munich, - iH. 290
, 1476, folio, cum comment. Omniboni — in the

Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - — 14!

, /Jp. Gering, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, - L 334

Luciani, Opera, Or. 1496, folio— 4ne copy, in the poMession of

M. Renouard, at Puis, - - . . U. 396
, 1603, j^Idus, folio — large paper copy, hi the

Royal library at Paris, - - . — 316
, Opusc. Quad. Lat. 1494 — 4to. — ufon

YsiiLnM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - ui. 497

Lucrethu, 1486, folio— in the King's Private €k>llection at

Stuttgart, - - - - - — 162

in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - — 497

, T. de Ragass., 1496, 4to.— in the same library, — 498

,Aldui, 1600, 4to.— in the same Library, - — Und.

- — , Aldus, 1616, 8fo. — UPON tsllum, (siq^posed to

be unique) in the Royal library at Ph^, - - iL 312

Luctus Christianorum, Jemon, 4to. — in the Imperial Li-
brary at Vienna, - - - - iiL 520
Ludolphui Vita Ckriiti {Eggesieyn), 1474, folio, in the PubUc

Library at Nancy, - - - - iL 644
De Terra Sancta, &c. 4to.— in the Imperial Li-

brary at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 609

Lffra Nic, de in Biblia, 1471-2 ; one volume of, at Caen, - i. 333

Mabrian, 1625, 4to.— in the library of the Arsenal at P^, ii. 334

Macros, 1472, folio— in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iiL 498

Maguelone, La BeUe, 1492, Trepperel, 4to. — in the Imperial
library, at Vienna, - - - - — 628

Maiui, de propriet. priec. verb. 1477» folio— ^. de Ceioma — in
the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - — 64 •

Mammotrectui, Scho^her, 1470 — folio — upon vbllum, in
the Imperial library at Vienna, - - - — 609

■ in the Library of

Olostemeuburg Monastery, - - . — 617

, H. de Helie, 1470, folio — in the Public Li-
brary at Landshut, - - - - — 336

Manc'mellui, de mode ScribemU, 1499, 4to. — in the library
of Professor Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, - - — 194

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxxl

Fol Page,

Mandbtillb, MS. German — 1471 — in the Royal library at

Stuttgart, - - - - iii. 165

Maniliui, 1474, folio, — ^in the King's IVivate Library at Stutt-
gart, - . - - . — 162
Manipului Curaimtm, 1473, folio, in the Public Library at

Rouen, - - - - - i. 176

Marco Polo, Germ. 1477> folio— 4n the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - - iil. 629

Martialis, 1476, folio — in the Library of a Capuchin Monas-
tery, near Vienna, - - - - — 621
— — — — {Lover) folio — in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - . — 498

— ! , Aldui, 1602, 8vo. two copies upon ybllum,

in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 312

Matni Iasonis Epitalamion, MS. 4to. — in the Emperor's

Private Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 692

Maytter of Sentence, Caston, folio — in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - - - - - — 632

Meinart, Si. L^e of, block book : in the Public Library at

Munich, - - - - - — 286

Meltmna, HUtorie von der. Germ, no date, folio, in the King's

Private Library at Stuttgart, - - - — 164

Meluiine, P. Le Noir, 4to. — ^in the Library of the Arsenal, - iL 339
Memoirt of the Transactions of ike Society of Belles Lettres,

&c. at Rouen, toI. i. page 181 : of a similar Society at Caen, i. 308
Mer des Histoires, 1488, folio; in the Public Library at

Rouen, - - - - - i. 178

Messer Nobile Socio, Miserie de li Amante di, 1633, 4to. in

the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - ii. 327

Meurin Fils d*Oger, Paris, Bonfons, 4to. — in the Library of

the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 339

Miles et Amys, Verard, no date, folio— ^upon ykllum, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 286

— , Rouen, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at

ditto, - - - . - — 332

Mirahilia Urbis Ronue, block book^ — in the Public Library at

Munich, - - - - - iii. 284

MissALE, MS. (Sti. Quthlaci) xith century, in the Public

Library at Rouen, - - - - L \6bS
xivth century, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart iii. 162

szxB INMDC OP MANUStaWS.

MiMALB, MS. zftt flMrr. MM iB tte MofA IMm? at

MV ^

of QMriet Ike Bold, xrdi cmtnrj — m the te-

perift librHy at Vieaiia, With fiM>«iiiile,

— — — xvtfc oeatoy, — in the Ptablie Librwy at M«-

■id^

8/0

ni tiie Pnblic Library of Landshut,

334

— HeritpoUme (1479), foBo, upon thiLUM , in the

Lnperial Library at Vienna, ...

490 '

, lUpter, folio — in the King's Pn-

▼ate Ubrary at Stattgart,

lis

Fenet. 1488, folio— upom yniiLVM»

fai the Emperor's Rriyate Collection at ^enna.

—

694

of a CSapndiin Monastery, near Vienna,

6tl

Roihofmag^me, 1499, folio, in the possesuonl of M.

Le FreTOst at Ronen, - - - -

168

Publle Library at Rouen,

178

MozMnMcum, 1600, folio— with the Breriary 1603,

in me Library of the Arsenal at Pans,

388

——————————— in the Library of Ste.

—

362

Vienna, - -

489

• • a ^ rfc ^ i>a«

of the Arsenal at Paris, ...

ii.

383

Miua D^nciomm, Fiewud, 1499, folio, in the Library of a

G^>ndun Monastery, near Vienna,

iii.

621

Latma, 1667, 8vo., in the Library of the Arsenal,

ii.

328

MmOmgn^i Euay$, 1636, folio, large paper, in the Pnblic

Library at Caen, - ...

337

MmUe Sancto di Dw, 1477, folio, — in the Royal Library at

Paris, .....

289

, in the Lnperial Library at

iii.

620

M^reri dei Narmmu, par I. A, Gmmi, MS. in the Pnblic Li-

brary at Caen, ....

336

Mhrgmt U Citmi, 1660, 4to.— in the Library of the Arsenal,

ii.

334

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xlv

Fol, Page.

rtrgtltui, o. Of r'atmartz, touo— in tne ivoyai Ldorary

at PkuiSy - - - - •

11*

267

rtrg^itus, .Menteitn, folio — m tae Library of ote. Uene-

Tiifeve— (incomplete^ - - - -

•>!/

bour^*— 'incomplete, - - • -

•••

ill*

enna, -----

/tOl

Drnry cU raTlBy - - - -

of Messrs* Treuttel and Wiirtz, - - -

brary at Pans, - - - «

tota.

enna, -----

...

iii.

601

14/1, otff. ana Fannartz, folio — m the Koyal Li-

brary at Paris, - - - -

269

— — — ^— — — — — ^— late in the Royal

LiDrary at otuttgart, - - - -

iii.

138

brary at Vienna, - - - .

501

138

— — — — 14/3, L. Acnatei, lolio — in the Imperial Li-

brary at Vienna, - - - .

501

wic Monastery, - - . -

431

1475, Jemon, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna,

502

Servius in Firgilum. Ulric Han^ folio — Diane de

Poictiers's copy, in the Mazarine Library at Paris,

366

. Faldarfer, 14? 1, folio — in

the Public Library at Strasbourg, -

iii.

. Litt R, in the Imperial Li-

brary at Vienna, - - - -

502

^ 1478, Gering'f folio — in the Royal Li-

brary at Paris, - - - - .

ii.

271

j4ldui, 1501, 8vo. — UPON VELLUM, in the Public

Library at Munich, ....

iii.

296

y'trgiliuMy Aldus, 1505, 8?o. — in the possession of M. Re-

iii.

395

xxxW INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Fol. Page.

Oisian, copy of, with drawing of Isabey, in tht King's
Private Library at Paris, - - - iL 376

Omdiut maraltMitu, MS., xvth century in die Public li-
brary at Rouen, - - - - i. 173

Ovidii Opera Ommia, j^gagukU^ 147 \, wanting two leavei, in
the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 296

, Fa*ti, Azoguidi, in the Imperial Library at Yieaaa, iiL 498

Opera Omnia, S. and Pannartz, 147 \, in the Im-
perial Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 498

, EpiitoUt et Fasti, folio, in the same collection, - —

Metamorpk, Edit, Bermard,, 1557, 8to., in a private

collection at Bayeux, - - - - i. 367

Paris et Fienne, Paris, no date, 4to., in the Library of the
Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 336

Parole Devote de Vanma, Jenson. 4to., in the Imperial
Library at Vienna, - - - - iU. 521

Pentateuch, Hebr. 1491, folio, in the Royal Library at
Puis, See also Gbkesis, ante. - - - iL 260

Pbtrarcha, MS. xvth century, in the Library of Chrems-
minster Monastery, - - - - iii. 379

Petrarcha Sonetti, 1470, Prince Eugene's copy in the Im-
perial Library at Vienna, - - - — 521

, 1473, Zarotus, folio, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - - - — 622

, Jenson, 1473, folio, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - - - — ibid,

folio, in the Library of

Gdttwic Monastery, - - - — 429
, L. Achates, 1474, folio, in the same

Library, ----- iM.

Comment. Borstii, Bologn., 14/5, folk).

two copies in the Imperial Library at Vienna, of which one
belonged to Prince Eugene, - - • — 522

-, Bolog., 1476, folio, (Asoguidi^) with

the comment of Philelphus, in the Royal Library at Stutt-
gart, - - - . - iil 145 <

* Id the page refened to, I have coujectured it to be printed by UlricHao or
Reifioger. To theie namet, I add the abore.

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xlv

/ W. Pafff.

nrgilitu, S. 4- Pannartz, (1469) folio— in the Royal Library

at Paris, . - - - - ii. 267

yWgilhu, Mentelin, foUo — in the Library of Ste. Gene

vifeve— (incomplete^ - - - - — 347
in the Public Library at Stras-
bourg— ^incomplete, ... - iii. 66
— in the Imperial Library at Vi-

enna, - - - - - — 601

■ 1470, r. de Spira, upox tellum, in the Royal Li-

brary at Paris, - - - - — 267

t UPON TELLUM, in the possession

of Messrs. Treuttel and Wiirtz, - - - — 268

upon paper, in the Royal Li-

brary at Paris, - - • - — ibid,

, in the Imperial Library at Vi-

enna, - - - - - iii. 601

1471, Sur. and Pannartz, folio — in the Royal Li-

brary at Paris,

. late in the Roval

Library at Stuttgart, - - - iii. 138

,1471, y. de Spira, folio— in the Imperial Li-

brary at Vienna, - - - - — 501

1471, ^dom, folio— late in the Royal Library

at Stuttgart, - - - - - - ^ 138

1473, L. Ackatei, folio — in the Imperial Li-

brary at Vienna, - - - - — 601

- P de Lnraftna, 1474, folio — in the librar\- of Gott-

wic Monastery, - - - - - — 431

1475, •fnifo/i, folio, in the Imperial Library at M«nna, — Uf2

Smhu in flrgilvm. Uric Nan, folio — Diarie de

Poictiers's copy, in the Mazarine Library a< Pari*. - ii. 30^

raldar/er, 1471, folio — in

the Public Library at Strasboorsr, ... \\i r/;

Liit, R. in the Imp^Al Li-

brary at Vienna, - . . . r^f2

I47S, Gmar, folio ^ in thft R//;*J Li-

brary at Paris, - - . . . ;I. 271

i^/</tf#, 1501, Std.— UPOS TELLIM, IZJ: V JjVj:

Ldbrary at Munich, - . . _ •

nrgriliuM, Aldus, 1505, 8to. — in the pr/He**>A M fU-

nouard, bookseller, . . -

• - - -/f.j

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS, &c.

Firgilhu, lUtl H. L. de Coin. 1476, folio— b the Ubrary of
G5ttwic Monastery, - - - - iii 431

GaUiei, 1586, folio — in the PubUc Library al

Caen, - - - - - i. 33?

Vita Christi, MS. in the Royal Library at Parii, - ii. 209

VUa SH, Gear, Scho^ffher, 1481, 4to.— late in the possesaum
of M.Traiteur, at Manhdm, - - Suppieimeni, Iv.

ViTiB Sanctorum, MS. Sec. xii. — in the Royal library at

Stuttgart, - - - . - iii. 149

Dwerior, Prmc, et Tyran, cum Eutnpk, Pamh Di-

acMo, ifc. P. de Lavagna, folio — in the library of Gdttvnc
Monastery, - - — 431

Fitntchu, Giuntm, 1613, 8vo. — upon tellum, in the library

of Ste. Genevieve at Puns - - - - ii. 362

yocaMarmmm^kum, H. de Hastm, fidiio— in the Public Li-
brary at Strasbourg, - - - . iii. d2

Utmo, T. dg, Semume9,pruued by Gering^-m the Public Li-
brary at - - - - L 447

— — , L, de, Quadrogeemale, 1471, folio— in the Library of
Chremsminster Monastery, - - - iii. 376

fTtcliffii Dialog!, 1625, 4to.— in the library of Professor Vec-
senmeyer at Ulm, - - - - — 194

WiLLiBRooDi Sti. Vita. Auct. Alcuino. MS. xith century,
in the Pri?ate Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - . — 161

Zophilologhtm, ttithout date — in the Public Library at
Rouen, - - - - - i. 176

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxxvn

FoL Page,

Pritctamu, Uiric Han^ folio— in the Imperial Library at Vieima, iii« 5 12

, j4ldus, 1627, 8vo., Grolier's copy, upon large paper,

in the Royal Library at Parifl, - - - iL 314

■ , UPON YBLLUM,

in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, - - - — 348

Proiperi Liber, {H. Glim) 4to. — ^in the PubMc Library at

Munich, - - - - ' - ilL 293

PsALTBRiUM, MS., ixth ccntufy, of Charles the Bald ; in the
Public Library at Paris; - - - - ii. 163

— , Sti. Ludovici, xiiith century, in the same

library, - - - - . . — 166-168

-, xith century, in the Royal Library at Stutt-

gart, - - - - - iii. 147
, xiith century, in the same Collection, - — 149

xiith century, in the Royal Private Library

at Stuttgart, - - - - - — 158-9

xiith century, in the PublicLibrary at Mu-

nich, - - - - - — 263

, with most splendid illuminations, of the
XTith century, in the same library,
LaL 1467, f\ut and Schoeffher, folio,, in

the Royal Library at Pbris, - - . -
, in the Imperial Li-

brary at Vienna, - - - - -
1469, folio— in the Royal

Library at Paris,

1490, folio, Schoeffher,

UPON VBLLUM, lu the Royal Library at Paris,
1602, folio, Schoeffher, in

the same library, ....
without date — Cretuner^

in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ...

folio, in

the same Collection, - -

, Lips. 1486, 4to. — in the Public Library at

Landshut, .....

, Germanic^, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - . -

PT0LBMi«u8, Lat. MS. folio— in the Royal Library at Paris,

Piolenueus, Lai, 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Stras-
bourg, .....

260

iii.

490

ii.

260

ii.

261

252

iii.

491

ibid.

335

491

ii.

214

xuriiS INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

roi. Page.

Ptolemmut, Lai,, 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Mvmch, ill. 290
, in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - ... — 512

Pulci n Driadeo, 1481, 4to., in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - - - - iii. 523

, Pistole, 1492, in the same Library, - - iM,

, Morganie Maggiare, 1500, 4to., in the same Library, iii. 524

iiuotuar NwMmorum, Germ,, 1473, folio, in the Library of

Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm, - - . .i—

Quiniilianui, I. de Lignam. 1470, folio, in the Library of

Ste. Genevieve, at IVis, - - - ii. 343
, 1471, Jenam, folio, in the Public Library at

Nuremberg, ... Supplement, zz?

Quintus Curtiui, Lover, folio, in the Library of Gottwic

Monastery, • - - - - iiL 431

Rabamu Maunu, de Umcerto, Cfc,, Litt. R,, mo date, folio,
in the Public Library at Strasbourir, - - iiL 69

Raderi Bavaria Sancta, 1615, &c., folio, extracts, with fac-
simile copper plates, from, - - - 221-4

Ratdoli, specimens of the types from his press, in the Public
Library at Munich, - - - - — 294

Recveildes Hittoires de Troj^e, printed by Caaton, in the Royal
Library at Paris, - - - ii. 247

, printed by Verard, upon vbl-

LUM, in the same Library, - - - — 248

Regnari lek, ifc, Verard, 4to., Prince Eugene's copy in
the Imperial Libivy at Vienna, - - iii. 529

Regulo! Juris Canon. Adam Rot, 1472, folio, in the Impe-
rial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 512

, Confitend, peccata sua. Ital., 1473, 4to., in the Im-
perial Library at Vienna, - - - — 524

Repertorium Statu t. Ord. Carth., 1510, folio, in the Public
Library at Caen, - - - - i. 325

Repertorium Foeabuhr. Exquisit. Bertddus, Basle, folio, no
date, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, . . iii. • 142

AND OF PRINTBD BOOKS.

zzxix

Vol. Page.

Repertarium, N. deAfilU, 1475, folio, in the Library of Oott-

wic Monastery, - - - iii. 432
Richard sam Peur, Jamt, no date, 4to., in the Library of the

Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 325

, BmfoM, no date, 4to., in the same Library, ib 'd.

, chapbook,-—9X Rouen and Gontances, - i. 409
Robert ie Viable, Janot, no date, 4to., in the Library of the

Arsenal at Paris, - - . - ii. 326
Romancero General, 1492, folio, in the possession of Madame

Debure, at Paris, - - - - ii. 388

Romancet, MS,, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - — 217-229

— — , printed, in the same Library, - - ii. 284-288

, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - iii. 64-5,&c.

, in the Public Library at Munich, - — 263, &c.

/ZoiMorrf, 1584, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, - i. 337
Ross Roman de la, MS. xivth century, in the Royal Library

atParis, - . - u. 224
, Ferard, no date, upon vellum, in the

Royal Library at Paris, - - — 285
Rotseioptu elegant, SfC., Pynson, 1523, 4to., the author's

copy, aftem-ards that of Sir Thomas More, in the Public

Library at Landshut, - - - iiL 337
Ruberto Quadragesimale, 1479, 4to., in the Imperial Library

at Vienna, - . - iii. 524

Sacramentarium, 8EU M188A Pap. Greg., MS., vith cen-
tury, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 469

Salluitiui, 4to., edit, prin, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 499

, Gering, Sfc, 4to., in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, - - . ^ 500

Sanchez de Matrim. Sacram., copy in the chapter Library at
Bayeux, i. 373, in the Library of the Lyc^e, at Bayeux, i. 374

Sannazarii Arcadia, 1514, Aldus, 8vo., Grolier's copy, on
large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 314

Sannataritu de partu flrginis, Aldi, 1527, 12mo. in the

King's Private Labrary at Stuttgart, - - iiL 165

Saxoferrato Duiputationes de — F. de Spira, 1472, folio, in
the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - . _ 143

, 1470, folio, in the Public Li-
brary at Munich, - - - - — 292

xl INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Vol. PMgf.

Sigmm, HUtoire MlUkure det Booains, quoted, i. 399; 423;
JUT f^Hoire de frndrnttrie dm Bocage en gMrtil, et de la

mile de Fire m eepUeie en particulUre, 1810, 8?o.,

449

Serehu m FirgUmm, see nrgilhts.

Sevii G. de, DecreUdki, 1472, folio, printed by Adam Rot, in

the Public Library wX StrMboorg,

in.

S/brziada La, 1480, foUo, upon vbllcm, in the Royal Li-

brary al P^, ...

ii.

290

Skm^ of FaoU, 1609, 8vo., prmied fF. de fFarde,

UPON VBLLUM, in the Royal Library at P^,

ii.

249

SiBiLJB, &c., MS., xvth century, in the Public Library at

Mamch, - -

iii.

269

Silms lialicus. Later, 1471, folio, in the Mazarine Library

alPiris,

ii.

367

, in the Imperial library at

Vienna, - - ...

iii.

600

, andPannarti, 1471, folio, in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - - -

—

600

Songe du Ferdier, 1491, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen,

178

Speculum Hum Sale, block book, in the Royal library at Paris,

ii.

266

, in the Royal Library at Stutt-

gart, ....

iii.

146

, in the Imperial Library at

Vienna, .....

—

631

Spec. Hum. Sale. 1476, fo^o, printed by Richel, in the Public

Library at Strasbourj^, - - - -

—

Spec. Fit. Hum, 1471, folio, G.Zeiner, in the Public Library

at Strasbourg, - - . . .

Speculum Stultorum, no date, 4to., in the Public Library at

Caen,

336

Statiut in uium Delphini, 4to., two copies, in the Library of

the Arsenal at P^, ...

ii.

323

> beautifol copy in the Library of Chremsmin-

ster monastery, - -

iii.

376

Statutes of Rich, HI. Machlinia, in the Royal Library at

Paris, - ...

ii.

278

Stella Meeehiah, 1477, 4to., in the Public Library at Stras-

bourg, .....

iii.

■ ' , in the King's Private Library

at Stuttgart, ...

164

Stengelii /mag. Sanct. August. Sfc., et Monasteriologia,

1619-20, referred to, - . . .

224

INDEX

OF PERSONS,
PLACES, AND THINGS.

^^ofSt. Oaen, i. 69-78; of Jnmieges; i. 196-206; of 8t Stepken,

ftt Caen; 280-288; of the Holy Trinity, at Caen, 301.
Achermmm, Mr., his extraordinary copy of hia own publicaition of Wes^

minster Abbey, iii. 696.

, a collector of medals and coins at Manhdm, Siq^jilmmU, M.
Adam, Mr. attentions to the author at Rouen, i. 160 ; and at Caen.
, a printer at Vire, i. 429, 449.

JEneat Sjflmut, his account of Strasbourg Cathedral in the xrth century, itt.
24.

4fl^ ftnd Ulric, Stt., Abbey of, at Augsbourg, ui. 220.

AgneiSorel; her tomb in the abbey of Jumieges, i. 201.

, supposed portraitof, in thecollection of Q. CrauiVird, iL 472*

Agfuntgofaw Savhvr in the Garden of Gethsemane, representation of, at
Laadshut, iii. 339 ; various, 346; at Kopff, near Salxburg, 361 ; at tht
church of St. Mary, at Vienna, 667 ; in a church at Neiimarkt, SuppU
meni, xviL

Albert, Madame, opera singer, at P&ris, ii. 616-7.

Albert, Duke, his fine collection at Vienna, iii. 699; monument eraded

by him to the memory of his Duchess, iiL 668.
Albert Durer, his productions at Nuremberg— the street called after Ui

name, with copper-^late view of— his tombstone—and high character of.

Supplement, xrii., zxvi., zL ; destruction of his diary, zxziiL, pietures of

in KlosterHeilbronn, xliv-y.
Alexander, late Mr., allusion to his talents, iii. 33.
Allan, Sir Alexander, Bart., late,— -tribute to his memory, iiL 171.

fish so called, i. 194.
Altmann, Principal w Abbot of die mooaatary of OoClwie, in Austria, Us

sdii INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Vol. Page.

TereiUiui, Gerardmg^en, 1479, folio — in Ae Libnuy of I^
fenor Vee8eiune3rer, at Ulm» • - - iiL 194

Teitamentum Nmmm, Gullied, (1478,) folio, copy purchased
at Rouen, - - - - - iL 81

, HMtndieietltMu., 1717, ioHo,

in the Royal Library at IHw, - - - — 256^

, B^hemM, Sec. xv — m the Im-
perial Library at Vienna, - - • iu. 492

, Gritei, Enumi, 1616, folio — three co-
pies of, in the Public Library at Strasbourg,- - — 56

copy ot in the Librvy
of Mr. Haffner, at Strasbourg, - - - — 81

, —in the King's Plri

vate Library at Stuttgart, - - - - — 163

■ R. Stephani, 1660, folio

Diane de Poictiers's copy — in the Royal Library at

Ptais, - - - - - ii. 316

Teirrdanckks, 1517, folio — upon VBLLfiif, in the Library of
Ste. Genevi^?e, at Pkris, - - - - n. 362

, two copies of, in
the Public Library at Munich, - - - iiL 297

« , ditto, in the Im-
perial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 629

, in the Library of the Monastery

ofSt. Florian, - - - - iii. 391

, upon paper, in the

pofMession of M. Traiteur, at Manheim, Supplement, U.

Theocritfu, Gr. 1493, folio unique copy, upon large paper,
in the Royal Library at Ptuis, - - - ii 316

— , yildui, Or. 1496, folio — in the Public Library at

Rouen, - - - - - L 178

TheophroMtui, 1497, Or. Aldui — Diane de Poictiers's copy, in
the posHession of M. Renouard at Puis, - - ii. 396

Thucydidf, G<ntrmoni» folio, Ferard — upon vbllum, in
the Imperial Library at Vienna— Prince Eugene's copy, - iii. 630

TiMdeo da Ferrara, 4to. fFitkaut date, — in the Imperial li-
bary at Vienm^ - - - — 625

Tixa-LivK, MS. folio — in the Royal Library at Paris. See

Livius. - - - - u. 216

Tityrell Pfartzivnl, 14/7, folio — in the Public Library at
Strasbourg, - - - - - iii. 65

AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xM

Fd. Page.

Tltpreil 4* P/artgkfai, 1477* folio — in the Public Library at
Landahut, - - - - - iii 336

■ in the Library of the Mo-
nastery of St. Horian, - - - — 390

' in the Library of Gdtt-

wic Monastery, - - - - - — 431

Tournaments, Book or, MS. XTth century ^ in the Royal
Library at Paris, with copper-plate portrut of John Duke
of Brittany, - - • - ii. 225

■ duplicate and more recent

copy of, - - - - - 228

■ another MS. of the same

work, 8?o., - - - - - — 229

TVaetaius de Fenemt, &c. 1473, 4to.^in the Library of Gott-

wic Monastery, ... . . iii 432
dedoctrina dicendi, &c. : without date, &c. — in the

Public Library at Strasbouryj^, - - - iii. 64
d€ Pietate Condi. Gen,, 1480, folio, in the Impe-

rial Library at Vienna, - - . . ^ 512

TVebUandt Pari*, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at

Paris, . . . . - iL 340

Tristan, MS., xi?th century, in the Royal Library at

Pkris, - . - - - — 220

, another MS. in the same

Library, - - - - • — 221

, a third MS. in the same

librmry. - - - - - - — 222

— , Germ, Sec. xiii., in the Public Library at Munich,

with wood-cut fac-similes, - - • - iii. 263-268
Gall, Sec. xiii., in the Imperial library at Vienna,

with copper-plate engraving, - - - — 475

, another MS. in the same Collec-

tion, - - - - . — 476

Triitran, Verord, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 530
Trttkemn Annulet Hhrsaugientei, 1690, folio — in the Library

of the Monastery of Chremsminster, - • — 381

J' , in the Library of a

Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna, - - - — 621

Tnnff^filz de Rayi, Paris, no date, 4to. — in the Library of the

Arsenal, - - - - - ii. 335

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS

Foi. Page.

Tully of Old Age, Caxtm—m the Ro3ral Library at Fwis. - ii. 276
Tundali, f^ish. Germ, 4to. in the Library of Professor Veesen-

meyer at Llm, • - - - . iiL 194

7\imer, Mr, Dawitm, Tour in Normandy, - - Pref. x.

Turrecremata L de Mediiathnei, UHc Han, 1467, folio — in

the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - . ~ 513
in

'the Public Library at Nuremberg, - Supplement,
, 1473, in the

Library of Gdttwic Monastery, - - - iii. 431
, the same edition

in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 492
— : , In lAbrum Piahnor. Craeii impr, no date —

in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 294

Valerius Maximus, MS. xvth century — in the Imperial Li-
brary at Vienna, - - - - iii 473

, Mentelin, folio— two copies in the Pub-
lic Library at Strasbourg, - - - — 66

■ in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - - - — 500

' in the Royal Li- .

brary at Stuttgart, - - - - — 140
, /' <fe Spira, folio— in the Imperial

Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 501
, Schoeffher, 1472, folio — upon

VELLUM, in the same library, - - - — ibid.
, 1476, Cte$ ?r Stol, folio — in the

Public Library at Caen. - - - - i. 334

-, Aldui, 1534, 8?o. Grolier*s copy.

on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 314
yalturiun DeReMUitari, 1472, folio— in the Imperial Library

(Prince Eugene'n copy) at Vienna, - - - iii. 514
, Ital. Reisinger, folio — in the

same CoUection, - - . . . — f^«/.

Fauderirea : see Basselin, Genbral Index.

He des Peres, 1486, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen. - i. 177
, 1494, folio, at Caen, - - . — 334

■tPkm, - - - - . L -96:

nrfrUmi. .M/mieim. Mk* — it Ar Ubwrr of Stt Gtaw^

Tftft — rmrampirte - - ^ — ^
m tfcp Fufaiir Libimry ax 3uai>

bcNiz^^ — if jumptetfc. - ~ • - ni. 'fit"

— iL tbf lxni%GiiLl IdbnDT at T»-

auHL, . - - . , _ 50:
1470, 6fnm, iTn% vm^vu, m tht Bmrnl Li-

bnrystBDk. - - - ~ —
• . rwjK TEia«ni. in tbr iwHeMMn

of M«Mn- Tiraittel BiidTniraL - - - — -Sff"

lllOJ I It T*Wki&. « « - «• I^IK.

— . m 'hapeM lahnor kt T).

aim^ - - - - ai. iiO:

1471. Aw. flw? Pammenz. fiilir — m ttu.^ JUvvwu Li-

bnry ax Vmnsk, - - • - — 36f*

. kzf m the Boval

Uhran' Ot Siiiniiart. - - - - iE JJIf'

. . 1471, r tff .%»rB, foliiv— in At InqieriBl 1*-

hrwT at Tieiiim. - - - - — ^''l

. . 147L jidawL, fuiiiy— Iku: in tkf Bfival LBmoT

8t Sluripin, - - - - - - —

3-i7X. L. J0ckett%^ fcibfi — m-dsi liii|ienal Li-

hrwT Bt Tiaiiuu - - - - —

P de Lmw^ 1474, fciBo — in ^ Khran df G&tt-

^MimaBtar, - - - - - — 42il

1475.«^f!wim,fuSifuinTiieIin|ienalIal^ — dAf?

Servmr n />jrfl«». flrir Him^fofio — Dmut dt

Poir^eiT^f onpy. in thf Mazannf Liiinrr at Pari^ - iL 366

. ^. yakiarftT^ 1471, Mil* — in

1^ PidtBc LahruT ai Sowiieiineu - - « iiL ^

. LitL JL in 1^ laqMBial

WvratVienna, - - - - —

w 147?v Grrmg. io&o — in R^wwH li-

WvraEtPvifi, - - • > • iL 571

Aldmt^ 13CH, ?TO. — rroic txluii^ in tiie Ihihlir

L3wvT ■! Munich, - - • • in. 52%

rwgHmg^ JUni^ 15(6, c*w». — in tiie possesnon of M. 1^
OMiird, bookseDer. - - - iii.

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS, &c.

fV. Pagg.

rtrgilhu, Jtal. N.L.de CMn. 1476, falk>-4n the Library of
GOttwk Monastery, - - - - iii 431

GaUiei, 1585, folio — in the Public library at

Caen, - - - - ^ L 333

Vita Christi, MS. in the Royal Library at Puis, - U. 209

FUa SH. Gogr, Scho^jfher, 1481, 4to. — late in the poiseBUon
of M. Truteur, at Manheim, - - SmppUmeni, Iv.

ViTJi Sanctorum, MS. Sec. xii. — in the Royal Library at
Stuttgart, - • • . - uL 149

Dwerior. Princ. et Tyran, cum Eutr^ph, Paulo Di-

aamOf ifc. P. de Lavaf^na, folio — in the Library of Gdttwic
Monastery, . - — 431

ntrwhUf Gmnta, 1513, 8vo. — vpon viLLUit, in the library
ofSte-Oeneri^TeatPftris - - - - iL 352

rocoMarmmBWieum, H. de Husm, folio— in the Public li-
brary at Strasbourg, - - - . iii. 62

Utmo, T. dg^ Sermottes, printed Gering^^ the Public Li-
brary at Vire, - - . - i. 447

» L, de, Quadragenmale, 1471, folio— in the library of
Chremsminster Monastery, - - - iii. 375

fTwlifii Diahgi, 1525, 4to.— in the Ubrary of Phrfessor Vee-
senmeyer at Ulm, - - . - — 194

WiLLiBRooDi Sti. Vita. Auct. Alcuino. MS. zith century,
in the Private Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - . ^ 161

ZophUologium, wUhout date — in the Public Library at
Rouen, . - - . - i. 176

GENERAL INDEX.

INDEX

OP PERSONS,
PLACES, AND THINGS.

^MtyofSt. Ooen, i. 69-78; of Jnmieges; L 196-205; of 8t. Steplmi.

at Caen; 280-288 ; of the HolyTrimty.at Gaen, 301.
Ackermann, lUr,, his extraordinary copy of his own pablicadon of Wett-

minster Abbey, iiL 596.

, a coUecU^ of medals and coins at Manheim, Siq^piemmU, M.
Adam, Mr. attentions to the author atRonen, i. 150; and at Caen.
, a printer at Vire, i. 429, 449.

JSneoi Sylmui, his account of Strasbourg Cathedral in the xvth century, UL
24.

and Ulric, Sis,, Abbey of, at Augsbourg, iii. 220.
Agnet Sorei; her tomb in the abbey of Jumieges, i. 201 .

, supposed portrait of, in the collection of Q. Crauftird, ii. 47%
Agim^ufwar Savhur in the Garden o/ Gethsemane, representation of, at
Landshut, iii. 339 ; various, 345; at Kopff, near Salzbuix, 361 ; at tki
church of St. Mary, at Vienna, 557 ; in a church at Neiimarkt, Sappia^
mem, XTiL

AHert, Madame, opera singer, at Pluris, ii. 516-7-

Alkeri, Duke, his fine collection at Vienna, iiL 599; monnment ereded

by him to the memory of his Duchess, iiL 558.
Albert Durer, his productions at Nuremberg^-the street caDed after Idi

name, with copper-plate view of— his tombstone— and high character of.

Supplement, zrii., xxvi., xL ; destruction of his diary, xxxiiL, pictures of

in KlosterHeilbronn, xli?-T.
Alexander, laie Mr,, allusion to his talents, iii. 33.
Allan, Sir Alexander, Bart., late,— tribute to his memory, iiL 171.
Aloee, fish so called, L 194.

Mmasm, Prine^w Abbai of die moaaflery of OoCtwic, in Aurtrfa* Ui

INDEX OF PERSONS,

hotpitable reception of tbe author, iH. 433, &c, his book presents, 436;
his autograph, 439.
Aliace, entrance within — and description of the country so called, iL 651-3;

ii. 551-3; See also Voigei.
AUatktn poetry, ui. 90-92.

AhBHng, town between Munich and Salxbarg— singular place of worslup,

iii. 340, 342.

Amberger^ Chriiiapher, pictures by, at Augsbourg, with copy of the head of

Melanchthon from, iii. 215, 6.
Ambmte Cardinal^ monument of unde and nq>hew, in the cathedral at

Rouen, i. 54, 60 ; high characters and anecdotes of, ibid.
Ambrois, collection of armoury from the castle of, in the little BeWedere at

Vienna, iii. 567.

Amyou, Mr. Thomas, his dissertation on the Bayenx tapestry, i. 3S3, 385:

his poetical composition, 385.
Andriotsi, Gen, commander of the artillery at the capture of Vienna, aaeodote

of, iii. 611.

Andrieu^ his great talents as a medallitt, ii. 466-7*

Ann of Brittany, account of her copy of the HarmB. M. Fhrgtma^ widi

copper-plate engraving of her portrait, ii. 188, 201 ; her copy of Catherine

deSenie, 1500, folio, 315.
Antbachy arrival at, and interview with Comte DnBChsd, Sapplamentp zlv.
Antiquities, National and MisoeUaneoas, at Paris, iL 494» 502.
Apponi Count, his library, with intended sale of a portion of, iii. 601, 603.
Arhuthnot, Dr. Charlee, late P^sident of the monastery of St. James, at

Ratisbon, with portrait of. Supplement, xiii.
Arc Jeanne d*, account of her sufferings, i. 95-8— her ancient and present

sutue, 99.

Arch, Messrs. J. and A., booksellers — in possession of a fine copy of die
supposed first edition of the German Bible, from the public library at
Landshut, iii. 335.

Argues y village and castle of, near Dieppe, i. 26, 31. •

^rsenal, library of, at Paris, ii. 320— collection of miUtary stores at Viema,
iii. 569.

Artaria, printseller at Vienna, iii. 605 ; Dom>, bookseller, printseller, and
banker, at Manheim, Supplement, Hi.; his collection of pictures, Uii.;
his kind-hearted hospitality, liv.

Arts, Fine, present state of, at Paris, ii. 502-14 ; at Nuremberg^ SsqtpUmeni,
xxxviii.

Ascension Day, ancient custom on, at Rouen, i. 66.

Atticus, a book collector — ^his library alluded to. i. 358; his visit to Paris, ii.
446.

PLAC£S AND THINGS

AnoiBOUBO.: eotranoe into, iiL 2Q2; •ppeannce oi the houses, i6i ^; mag-
nificent hotel of the Three Negroee, 202; its gallery of pietnras, with
specimens of the catalogue, describing them, written in the English
langnage, 203; the Town Hall, 206; the Picture Gallery, 206; ancient
splendour of the City, 218 j abbey of Sts. Ulric and Afn, 220; die
martyrological roll of Augsbourg, 221 ; trade of Augsbonrg, 224; forti*
cations and enrirons, 225 ; the public library, with account of some of the
rarar books, &c, 226, 235; society of the Rev., at the table d'hdts^
of the inn, 238-9— departure from Augsbourg, 239.

Baber, Rer, H. //., honourable mention of, by the Baron Von MoU, iiL 309.

Baobn, near Rastadt, arri?al at, iii. 104 ; ita hot baths, 105; raomments
in the principal church, 106-8; sabbath occupations, 106; master«ager
and his niece, 109: the mall, 110 ; cTening walk to an a4{aoent conTcnl,
with the EMer SchweiglaRiser, 111; castle in the vicinity of, 115.

Bagiter, Mr,, his mtended Mfition of a Polyglot Bible aUnded to, iiL 606.

Barbery, abbaye de, ms. ooDecdons relatingto— 4n the royal Library at Parity

ii. 240.

Barbier, Mr., private librarian of the King, iL 371 ; portrait of, and ao

aooountof his works, 376-7; his present to Earl Spencer, 380.
Barthtiemi late AM, bust of— in the collection o# Q. Cranlard, li. 471.
Ar-/^Z>m;, town on the road to StFBsboorg, iL 534.

Barteeh, /. Adam de, AuHc counsellor, and director in chief of the Imperial
Library— lus kind receptk>n of the andior, and tethermnce of his views,

iii. 447, 451, 536 ; his portnut, 446; his talents appreciated, 604.
Bauelm Oimer, see Olhmr Bauelm,

Bavaria, entrance into the territories of, and forests of fir, iiL 200.

Batbux : cathedral ; ordination of priests and deacons; crypt of the csthedsal;
a mysterious interriew, i. 345, 358 ; visit near 8t. Loup, 359 ; M. PliH|iiet,
apothecary and book vendor, 364-5 ; visit to die Bishop, 369 ; the cliapier
library, 370, 374 ; College Library, 374; aocoont of the Bayenx tapestryi
with vignette and plate, 375, 367; agriculture and trade, 387, Sec.; ms.
papers and drawings reladng to the history of, in the Royal Library at
Paris, iL 241-3.

Beamclok, ruins of the abbey, near LdUebonae, i. 283.

Beeket, Tkomas-a^ ms collections relating to, IL 236-^.

Bedford, John Duke of, his monnment in the cathedral at Rooen, i. 63; his
Breviary in the Royal Library at Puis, ii. 176, 185.

BeU,ikegreai, atRooen,L56; at Strasbowg, HL 83 ; at IVcysfaig, »i. 327.

Behedere Palacee, great andmali, at Vienna^ iiL 567, 573.

INDBX OF FfiRaONB,

Bhi&rd, Mr., printsdler to hu Mijesty, at Fvii, iLI»7$ vifmaa aWiit dtt
eigrtfingB of tlM D«)» of WeIBBgl«^

iSI^^I^ £)M,4SKtraoitlh^ called, paBfofmed m titt tabiiite of

Vieiina,uL679,682.
BmoNirMM, old prim o( U. 614.15.
Bemank, • RiKtaiigh€»-oHaded to, L410.

Bemhani, M,, one ^ tiw poblie m»miia •! Mondi ; Idf bibfifl^c^^ded

talents, and kiiid attentioDi to .die entiior, SL 266, 8ia
MflWMirr, AbH bis fiterarycliaiacto

Be^hlagt Rector, public librarian at Augsbonig, iii. 226; negoliatioa with,

about the povcbaae of certain books, 228.
BHiiopkiiei, lei, a sodety so called, at Buk^ B. 447*9; list of meaim

of the same society, 449; symposium pven by the society to BadSpeneer,

449,460.
Bmdmg, see Book.

JNaf,anantiqoar,orscnerof oldbook^sftl^emM^M. 606.
Bieekofekem^nmrKM, miztnra of aeili kilte oblBcbo^ ii. 100^8.
9km»i, old castle at, ui the wy to BtfaaboMg; iL 647> >
BAmcAtsMiMf, at Pm^ copper plaaaof, iL 499.
BMMii, batlkof, aMiidedto,m.l84.

Mkck wood, co»-original'">'of dio xnrtli OBpliiiy yaiiiiiaiad ^af tlMeaMnM

of die pubBcHbrary at As^aboaq^ iL 284^
Blore, iff. Us talentitaa an artlit, dlMto;

Boeoge, account of the country so called ' in vicinily 'of Viio, ki fior-
mandy, i. 423, 449.

Boccaccio, Waldarfer, 1471; sale of, L 236; see Bibliooraphicai. Imdbz.
Bochart, Samuel, native of CSaen, his books, (many of diem widi ma. notes)

in dw public libnuy at Caen, L 326, 836.
BoekervUle, Si. Veorget do; village and cbuteb of, !. 108, 190; monastery

and manufactory at, i. 191.
Boldec, town of, in Normandy, i. 223 ; the dnudi, and sm^ of tte T^f^

Savoyard there, 228-6; anecdote connected dle)rcwid^ 227-9; eBvirottsof

Bolbec,228.

BoMiparie, anecdote of at St. Diiier, H. 632; of him, and Marahsi Lasties,
Hi. 308 ; receptionof, at the monastery of Gottwk, iH. 424 ; chancier of

bis son, at Vienna, 674.
Bookt, numbers of, in public Hbraries at Paris, ii. 869.
BooMmding, ancient, at Paris — ^widi three copper plates, and one Tignette,

of die ezteriorB of some of the more anrient diptydis, 14^7*; nodem^

at Ftei8,ii. 411,421.

^iMOBB AND THIKOS.

Itti

BmkMUeny ft« IUmM. 149:151 ^ at H»m, K'd47'»Sm;«t Ca«^id9Mv»«
Bayeiix»d6d; atCoutances, 412;at Vire^429;at FalaiBe, ii. 48-56; atfMs,
d06i4O4; at Naatfy, 6«1-, a^ Sirasboulrit, fii 71j «t^9t«ttg^,Hi^l9yM^
Munich, 299 : at Vienna, 606 ; at Nuremberg, Supplemettty xlL ' ■■

Bootey, Mr,jun. bookseller, his republication of the Fratos of OeCtiM eotl^
mended, iii. 121; his manual of the eunodite of 'Nureoiberg, XX. 9 and
apeciBai of Klmn't drawing!, Smpplemewt, xiz-xxxix. ?

Bouuet, portrait of, by P. de Champagne, iL 475.

BimguemUe, topographer of Gaen;^ extracts fipom Ids woric^ nd wood«Ml

portrait a^L 294.7.
Boulevards at Pbris, with copper-plate of the Booleyarda ItalieiiB,'' ii. 76*80.
BoMhrmm, Mr Elder, boolc-binder at Paris, IL 414. ^ ^^'^

' the Yotmger, do. 416.
Bret Le, Mr., public librarian at Stuttgart — anecdotes and character of^ Hi,

131, 133> 171, 181. ,.\^.w\
BreMi, Seneschal 4e$ husband of Diane de Pdctierii^^ds tomb (with «l&

graying) in die Cathedral of Rouen, i. 60^1. . ^ . ^

Brial, Dom, his residence, library, and literary diaraeler, ii» 4234Sl^flA

portrait, 428; symposium urith him and the Abb4Beteilcovt^ 426. wQ
^tdj^^e a€TOfff Me /ZAiiitf, near Stntsbouig---importance of, iu^ ''^y
Bright, Jk^ hb aaAi&stei descriptiott of the Prater, at Vienna, iii. 58^ Mi

account of the present state of Nurembeq;, Stfplement, p. x?fi. ' t<
BrUtoMjf, John Duke of, portrait of, ii. 225 ; Ann«f Brittany--see Ann. tv'.n
Brunet Ftls, /. C, bookseller at Pteis, ii. 397; character of hia |mblieatls«s,

38&400risterfiow with Eiri Spencer, 400. . ■x^)'>^■\'
Bmrgmair Hans, fine pictures by, at Augsbourg, iii. 2124U6.

Cobma da MedaUkt, at Parif» iL 136; des Estampes, ii. 136-144.

Caen ; i^proach to the town, i. 269. Account of its soil, mannlytprigs^
■ populaitino, apd eoviroas, i 26.1-267i costuq;ie of the common wmfa^
wisjb, fignette, and oopper-plate of the FlDe-de-Chavihre, 268;. despqcate
duel fought there, 269-273; antiquities of the town, 273; streets and ho^fes
of, irith cqiper-plate vignettes^ 275-8; fountMns of, 279; abbey of 8(t
Stj^hen* with riew of, 280-288; tomb, portrait, ssid palace of Wil|iam
the Conqueror, 284-292; supposed figure of do, 293; church of St. Dfar-
netal, with copper-plate view, 295-7 ; portrait of Bourgueville, the h|u«^
nan of Caen, with extracts firoin his work, 294^9; account of the
Abbaye aux Dames, or of the Holy Trinity, 301-5 : castellated buildings,
306; the Abb6 de la Rue, 309; Memoirs of the Acwiemy at Caaii^ 308 ;

lif INDBX OF PERSONS,

Mods. Lamouroiix, 310; Pierre Aim£ Lidr, 311 ; printen, and Manoala of
instruction, 316-321 ; bodLsellen, 321-4; description of tiie Public labmy,
with account of the books, 324-340 ; list of portraits in the same, 327 ; pro-
testant ehundi and preachii^, 341 ; courts of Justice, 342.
Cathi Jacquet, original portrait of, in the collection of Mr. Q. Granfurd,
ii.479.

MvimsU, ravages committed by — at Rouen, i. 49, 56, S2, — at Caen, 281,
287,335,— at Bayeux, 355.

Cambacir^, j4rchbishop; of Rouen, i. 68.

CttmpbeU, Mr. his Poem of Hohoilinden » aUuded to, iU. 325.

Canava, specimens of his sculpture in the coUection of the Marquis de Som-
marira, ii. 4^5-489, in the palace at Stuttgart, iii. 168; his tomb of the Du-
chess Albert, at Vienna, iii. 558, &c.

Canttadi, near Stuttgart, description of, iii. 177.

.C^pvcAm comtfeni, at Vienna, iii. 563 ; in the suburbs of, cafied the Rossau,
619.

CtudewalU^ remains of, at Ronen, i. 154; —at Caen, i. 306; al Nuremberg,

Supplemeni, xviii.
'tkieehumt; see ckap-Mkt, and BinLiooRAPBiCAL Ikdr.
Catharine, Mont Sie,, at Rouen, riew from, i. 116-120.
Caiharine, S$e., chapel of, in Strasbourg cathedral, with copper-plale of a

group of women at prayers, in the same, iH. 32.-— engraving ef the

Sunt, from an illuminated MS. in the Imperial Library, at Vi^ma, iii.

469.

Caikolhf and ProtesianU, controversy between, at Strasbourg, in the xvth
and xTith centuries, iii. 5-10.

Cathedral— of Rouen, with a plate, i. 50; of Caen, with a plate, i. 282; of
Coutances, with a plate, i. 409; of Ptuis, ii. 95; of Strasbourg, witii a
plate, iii. 12 ; of Ulm, with a pkte, 191; of Munich, 242; of Freysing,
with a pkte, 325-7; of Vienna, with a plate, 547^ of Ratisbon, Sappi.
viii.

Caudebec, village near Rouen; i. 206-215 ; copper-plate view of, 208 ; church
of, 209-10; description of a ready furnished house to let at, 212^14; ap-
pearance of the tide coming in, 212.

Cemy^f&reit of^ in Normandy, i. 392.

Chalons iur Mame, town on the road to Strasbourg, ii. 530.

Chamilli Af., instrumental to the smrender of Strasbourg to Louis XIV. ui.
8-10.

Champ de Drop (fOr, basso-relievo repnisentation of, with engraving, i. 100-2.
Chap-boohs, at Rouen ; including Catechisms, Romances, Manuals of instruc-
tion, &c. i. 134-148, 410.
Chapleio/ihe Hrgin, Hymn BO called, ^,531.

PLACES AND THINGS.

Chardm, Mr. bookseller at Ftais ii. 400. — portnut of, with some particulars
relating to, 400-403.

Ckariatany at St. ho, vignette of, i. 394— account of, 396.

Charlemagne, book of prayers belonging to, in the Private Library of the King
of France, with iiic-simile of the figure of Christ therefrom, ii. 372*6.

— ■ , a similar book in the library of Chremsminster

Monastery, iii. 378.

Charles the Bald, his Latin Bible, Psalter, and Prayer Book, in the Royal Li-
brary at Paris, ii. 156-163.

Chateaugiron, le Marquis de, president of the Society of Bibliophiles at Puris,
ii. 449.

Chewe, Du, M., curator of the print room in the Royal Library at Paris, ii.

140 ; his opinion respecting the supposed original wood-cut of St Quriato-

pher, of the date of 1423, ii. 143.
Chevalier, M., Librarian of Ste. Genevieve library, ii. 343.
Chrkmsminster, town and Monastebt of, account of a visit paid to the

latter, with a description of the Monastery and of its Library, iii. 370-381.

Jommey from Chremsminster to Linz, 381-3.
Christopher, St., wood-cut of, of the date of 142^— at Paris, ii. 143 — di8<ioi-

sition upon its genuineness, 143-145 ; ancient wood-cut of at Munich, iiL

277.

Cloch, at Strasbourg — ^formerly much celebrated, iii. 33.

Closternbuburo Monastbrt, near Vienna, account of a visit to, with a

description of the Library of, iii. 613-619.
Clovis, figure of, on Strasbourg Cathedral, iii. 15-17.
Cluny, Hdtel de, at Paris, ii. 118.

Colbert, le Mimstre, his book passion : portrait of, in the collection of Mr. Q.
Cranfurd, iL 477.

Colmar, a town near the Rhine, supposed place for early typogn^hical pro-
ductions, iii. 96.

Colonnies, Hdtel des, rue de Richelieu, ii. 128»; Supplement, bdi.

Cond^, village of, between Vire and Fahiise, ii. 3.

Coney, Mr, his graphic talents alliided to. Pre/, viii : — iii. 42.

Cof^fessional 'm the Abbey of St. Onen, i. 72-3 ; in the Abbey of St. Stephen,
at Caen, i. 283; at Granville, 419.

Conrad de LAchtemberg, the founder of Strasbourg cathedral, iii. 17.

Cemeille, plaister figure of, at Rouen, i. 163.

bust of, at Mr. Q. Crauford's, ii. 471.

Cotman, Mr. references to his engravings of the arclutectnral antiquities of

Normandy, i. 199, 281, 301, 397; u. 13.
Cotta, M. bookseller at Stuttgart, iii. 119.

CouTANGBS ; approach to, i. 403 ; the town, 403 ; the Galhedral, and view

Ifl

INHBX of FES80N8.

fktmi thence, 404^$ mnalMr of jmag dtqff, md 40MU;
eomeUness of die women, 406 ; andeat aqwdiict, 406 ; ooppef-^kte viMr

of iht9qa/t^mMAcaaMM,4^

Oie Public Ubnr7,411;boolneUflffi, 41d}ms. eoOeetioMiel^^ to^iL

231-236 ; aodent tqpettrj lMkiii«ii« to tiw crtiietoJ, 237.
Onq^, Mr. cefeluMid printer at M», IL 40&410; kb Snmrndn if

Ltmkei, 407s bibttflgnpLkaatympoiii^ 409; Madune, mentkm aML
Crmei/Ut, at Dyeppe, with copper-plate, i. 7; »t Ftdaiae, iL 22; aH ViliBbaif,

near Landshut, uL 340 ; at St. P^dlen, 419 ; near Nn^

old oofpe^pte engrafingof, bought of Baroo Dendun at do. zzshr.
Orgpt, in tiw etorch of St. Gerraia, at Rouen, L 85; of Bayeuz eathednJ,

349} of Abbaye anz Damea, at Caen 303, ; of Stnyibougcathedral, 13.

37: of die cadMdral of Breysfaig^ wi«hcopper.platet, i&L 324-7.

Dmmeeher, scuJ^tor, at Stattgart, iii. 172-176 ; obiervatioae his boat of
8diiller,tm

2^mf<€, the river, from Linx to Vienna, appearance of, near the Monaalory of

M(dk, iiL407; nearthat of GOltwic, 422 ; near that of GkMtemeiibv]^ 613-

14 ; at Straubing, Supplement^ iv.-v.
Dmrid, a Pluriiian artist, his picture of Cupid and Pkyche, uu 482; Ids si^

posed skill in drawing, 502 ; remariu upon his picture of the Hofttii and

Gnratii,50a4.

Dehure, Mem, booksellers to His Majesty, at Puis, iL 387-9.— IMbM^ hv
very choice collection of books, ii. 388.

Demt^ M, (now Baron) ; his anecdote about the Bayeuz Tapestry, i. 366; a
guest at the Roxburghe banquet, 442 ; account of his collection of cnriorities,
prints, and pictures, 453-461 ; of his library, 402-464; his portrait, from the
bust ofBosio, 459.

Denekau, Barm, )iis curiosities at Nuremberg, Sigtpl, xxxii-v.

Dtmoftre, celebnite<l engraver at Paris, ii. 504-5.— His opfadon die BritUi
school of engraving, ii. 51 1.

DwiM de Paiciiere, anecdotes of, at Rouen : i. 62-5 : several books belonging
to, in the Public Library at Ca^n, i. 338-40, in the Royal labrwy at Paris,
ii. 291-2 ; 293, 315, 316, 317, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, Ii. 366; hv
case-knife, with engraving, ii. 493 ; engraving o£ her bust, 497 ; her por-
trait, in the collection of Mr. Q. Craufurd, ii. 478.

Dkbit /Itmm, celebrated printerat P^, ii. 405; his letter-foondery, Mf.

Dawn: passage from Brighton to, L 1.8: fisheries at, 11-13: rise and
progress o£ the town, 13: want o£ good poUoe, 15 : engnviiga of maikel
Maaea, 17^ encnrrinf of mrr rnrtf¥,1ft mgraTliy nf weeiWi iiimiii

placbs and things.

Ivii

on totrene^ of tbe^iirboiir, 8 : diilreli of St. Jacques, 19 ; senlce thcrdn,
21; dmrcb service at St. Remy, 23: engraytng- of Fille de Chambre,
92^; loiad adrantages of I>iept>e, 34-3.

Dietmapr, BertMeku, Restorer of the Monastery of llfalk, account and
copper-plate engraving of the poitrdt of, Ifi. 415.

D^igenee: at Dieppe, i. 16, 37, 38; In Germany, ffi. 201.

Diptych, ancient, in the Royal Libraiy afPsHv^ wfth two copper-pkte
engrarings, ii. 146, 147; in the Imperial Library at \^eittia, with a cop-
per-plate engraving of St. Jerom, npon the same, ill. 460.

Digier, St., town in the road to Strasbourg, anecdote of Bonaparte when
there;a.632.

D&»ce,^T., in possession of a bronze medal of Lbids XII., 4. '13fi.— his (Col-
lection, referred to. Supplement, xxxv.

Drew, between Falaise and Paris, ii. 65; churches and ruins of castles, 66-7.

Drolleriee, m eeulpture, on the outside of Strasbourg cathedral, iu. 25-29.

Drury, Rev, Henry, In possession of a MS. of the cathedral service at Rouen,
of the xiiith century, i. 170 ; of a copy of Cicenfi Officee of 1465, u#bii
VELLUM, from a private collection in the Vosges, iii. 70.

Duddfr, village of, 1. 194 ; anecdote of the innkeeper and his daughter,
194-6.

Duel, desperate one fought at Caen, i. 269-272.

DUjputel, M., a book-collector at Rouen, i. 155; specimens of his poetical

compositions, 155-8, 182-3.
Durand de Langon, M., an active member of the Society of the BiblhpMIei, at

lWs,fi.447.

Earthquakee, frequency of at Strasbourg, iii. 39.

Ebner Family , and Cadejp Ebneriame, at Nuremberg, Suj^, juvi.

Eckme, the celebrated antagonist of Luther— his chair^ cap, and coUeotiMi^

tracts by, preserved in the Public Library at Landshut^ iiL 336.
Ef^B^eram, Sl Monastery of, at Ratisbon, Su/^l, x.
En^elhardt, M. at Strasbourg, his work connected with the Mhuie-Siagen,

iiL 90, 91, 120.

Eagraeing, French echaol of, preceded by notices of a few of the move cele-
brated engravers, ii. 504-511.

Eng^ings, nuniber and value of, in the Imperial Idbrary at Vianni^ jil.
^^^l in the private collection of the Emperor of Austria, $96k^ tha^M^
4j(j^n of tU Ih^ . .

advance of the French to Vienna, ibid.

Iviii

INDEX OF PERSOK^

Epernajf, distinginBhed for its champagne wine — aoaed^le of the Pkraanans,

when passing through this town, ii. 629.
Evelyn, John, his description of Havre, i. 242 : of HoBflear, i. 263 ; of Mont

Ste. Catherine, at Rouen, i. 116.
Eugene, Prince, his book benefactions to the laqperial Library at Yienna, iii.

452, &c.

Eutiache, Si^ church of, at Pteis, ii. 97.

" Falaise ; approach to, ii. 9: Hdtel of the Grand T\tre, 9-10; eo^er-pbte
view of Fabuse castle, 10; copperplate vignette of the castle, aa it appeared
two centuries ago, 11 ; copper-plate vignette of one of the qyitala of the
pillars in the same, 13 ; general description of the castie, 13-19; church of
Ste. IVinit^ 21^ ; return of Looia XVIII. celebrated, 23; mamifartiire of
wax candles, 25 ; mansion and hospitable treatment of the Comte de la
Fresnaye, 25^ ; diurch and fidr at Guibray, in the neighbooiiiood, i28-31 ;
supposed head of William the Conqueror, with engraving, 33-36; church
and place of St. Gervais, 36-40; account of M. Laageviap the Uatorian ^
Falaise, with copper-plate vignette, 40-46; temperature and situation of,
47; fountains, ib,; printers, 48-56; booksellers, 56; odebcation of the
fite-dieu, 59-62^ Hdpital 66i6ra], 62; departure in a diligence for Paris,
63.

Fttustus {the) of Goethe, account of, with fac-simile wood-cuta from, iii. 120-
130 : reference to a more particular account of in Mr. Baldwin's Magazine,

iii. 121.

Fkitt, Abhi, librarian to the Chapter Library at Bayeux, i. 370.

FUle de Chambre, at Dieppe, engraving of, i. 32 ; at Caen, engraving of, i.

268; at Nuremberg, engraving of. Supplement, Ixiv.
Fhre-uforks, at the Prater, near Vienna, iii. 588.
FUcheim, Fan, bookseller at Munich, purchases from, iu. 303-5.
Fheon, M., head librarian of Ste. Genevieve, ii. 343.

Florian, St., Monastery of — visit to, and account of the building, —
church, library, saloon, and picture gallery, iii. 387-404; description of the
Abbot, 388-9; antiquity of the monastery, 397*

Font, in a church at Salzburg, iii. 349 ; in the church of St. Sebald, at Nu-
remberg, Supplement, xx.

Fontaine, de la, village of, near Rouen, i. 193.

Forest, in the neighbourhood of Baden, iii. 103 ; in the neighbourhood of

Heilbronn, Supplrment, xlvi.
Forster, Mr., celebr itcd engraver at Paris, ii. 507.
Fotsard, M., sub-librcirian at Rouen, i. 161.

PLACES AND THINGS.

Fountahu, at Fnlaise, iL 10-47 ; at Puis, ii. 110-1 14 ; at AunrsboarR, iii. 180 ;
at Yieima, iii. 542.

fhmci^ (FVankfl) Madame, iMnker at StrMbourg, iii. 745— hoepitality and
liberal conduct towards the author, 75, 77> 97 ^S.

Francit his ybllum copy of the Commentaries of Budaras (his tutor)
upon the Greek language, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 295; his copy
of the Aldine Greek Bible upon thick paper, ii. 313 ; portnut of, in the
Loufre, and in the collection of M. Q. Craufiird, ii. 472 ; engraving of
the bast of,ii. 496,

Franciscan Convent, at Vienna, iii. 564.

fyeenmeotuy, account of its rise and progress at Strasbourg, iii. 88, 90-
F)rench, national diaracter of, ii. 517, 520.
Freree, Messrs. booksellers at Rouen, L 149.

Fremoffe, Camte de la, residing at Fslaise— his literary amusements and

kind attentions to the author, ii. 19, 25, 30, 37.
Freysing, visit to ; the church, crypt, (with copper pUte engravings of pillan

in the latter) and adjacent library, iii. 325, 329 ; M. Mozler, bookseller at,

ihid

F^h, a town near Nuremberg, excursion to, Supplemeni, zli.
Fuit and Gutenberg, original depositions relating to the lawsuit between
them, at Strasbourg, iii. 53.

Gaertner Carbinian, librarian of the monastery of St. Peter, at Salzburg, iii.
354-5.

Gail, M., one of the curators of the Royal Library at P^, ii. 150; his

literary character, and editions of Thucydides and Xenophon, 430, 433 ;

his verses redted at the Roxburghe banquet, 445.
Gallery of Pictwrei, at Rouen, L 162-4; of portraits at Caen, i. 327; at

Augsbourg, iiL 203, 206; at Munich, 249 ; at Vienna, 571; at Nurem-

berg, xxviiL
Gascon, ancient book-binder at Paris, ii, 412.
Geisler, M., beautiful engraver at Nuremberg, Supplement, i. xl.
Geislingen, town near Llm, curious adventure at, iii. 182.
GenevOve, Ste., nouvelle Egliee de, ii. 99, 100; Uhnry of, 342, 362.
Gerard, M., portrait painter at Puis, renuurlu upon some of his pictures, ii.

503.

Germain, St. des Prie, iL 97 ; aux Augerrois, 98; destruction of the old
library, u. 284.

German character, Mendlinegs of dispoeition of, iii. 198 ; 622.

GervaiM, St., church of, at Rouen, i. 85 ; at Falaise,ii. 36; at Paris, ii. 96.

INDEX OP PERSONS,

• Oejfler, John, a celebrated refonaer at StMbou]^, Hi. B, 35.
GiIg'en,St., village near Gmandeii — night adFentore at, iiL 363.
GUIeM, St., village between St. Lo and Coataneea— adventure there, i. 40L
Gmunden, lake and village of, iiL 367-9; journey from Gmnnden to ChreBu-
minsto-, iii. 370.

tioTTwic MoNASTBRT; appprooch and viiit to — with an account of the
church, library, saloon, and hoephabk reoeptdon at, fit 422, 440 ; copper-
plate engraving of halt of pilgrims, in the approach to, 421-2; ^ same,
of a portion of the same party, on their nearer approadi to the monastery,
433.

Gififfet, account of his bibliograplucal labours, with portrait, iL 378-9.
Gwrdm, Mr., chief librarian of the public Idbrary at Rouen ; L 161.
Grahame, Mr., commendation of his poem called tke Skbbaik/* u. 106.
Orammoni, Camteue d!^— portrait of, in the collection of Q. Grauford, n.

473.

Gnuwilie, town in Normandy, i. 417, 419.

GrenvUIe, Right Han, T., his library aUnded to, I. 337; H. 262; 264;
316; iu. 68; 616.

Griffiths, Dr,, about to establish a stereotype preu at Viemia, attention to

the author. Supplement, vii.
Grolier, books formerly in the library of, ii. 312, 314.
Gfoiier, AbU, chief librarian of the library of the Arsenal, u. 320
Grotifu, portrait of, in the collection of Q. Craufurd, iL 472.
Gruber, AnUmnu, M., librarian to Count Apponi — his bibliogn^hical aid,

iii. 601-3.

Guerin, M., his picture of Diana and Endymion, iL 483.
Guibray, in the vicinity of Falaise — church and ftir, ii. 28, 31.
Gvidet, publications, rarity of, upon the continent, iii. 178.
Gurney, Mr. ^Hudson) his dissertation on the Bayeux tapestry, i. 382.
Gutenberg, spot at Strasbourg, where his first operations with the press are
supposed to have been carried on, iii. 78 ; see /W/.

Naffher, M., a protestant clergyman, at Strasbourg — his library, iii. 77, 80.

Halles de Commerce, at Rouen, L 89, 92.

Hammer, Mr. a celebrated orientalist, at Vienna, iii. 604.

Hamilton, Mr., charg6 d'afiaires at Stuttgart— his kind attentions to the

author, iii. 134, 168.
Hapsburg, Rudolph Count of, one of the benefactors towards the buikymg

of Strasbourg Cathedral, iii. 17-
Harfleur, in the route to Havre, L 239.

Hartenschneider, M., Professor — in the monastery of Chremsminster—

PLACES AND THINGS.

Ixi

his kind attentions to the aathor, iii. 374, Sec, ; his opinion of our more
celebrated writers, 380.

Haslewood, Mr. J., historian of the Roxburghe Club, ii. 445.

Hav&b, road from Rouen to— and view of the latter from, i. 187-8; ap-
proach to the town, 239, &c. ^ description of the town and environs, 242,
250.

Heber, Mr., his library alluded to, iii. 381.
mbert, M., public librarian at Caen, i. 324, 328.

Heerdegen, M., bookseller at Furth, visit to, and purchases from. Supple-
ment, zli.

Hbidslbero, description of the palace, or castle, with engravings of.

Supplement, xlvii ; of the great Tun, xlix. ; visit to the public library, L
Heilbrann, near Heidelberg, Supplement, xlvi.

Henry 11. , King of France, his triumphal entry into Rouen, i. 63-4; his
death, ibidr, books in the public library at Caen, i. 338, &c. ; at Paris, u.
311, 317; bronze bust of, in the collection of the late Q. Craufrurd, 47 L

Henri IV., College de, near Ste. Genevieve, ii. 353.

Herarde, Abbeu of Landsberg, account of a ms. by her called Hortut
Deliciarum, iii. 52.

Herman, King of Hungary, sec. xii. his psalter in the private library of

the King of Wirtemberg, iii. 159.
Hermann, M., a literary gentleman at Strasbourg, iii. 77 ; See Bibliogiu«>

PHicAL Index.

Heu, M., Professor of design, and engraver, at Munich, his amiable dia*

racter, iii. 313, 316.
Hibbert, Mr. George, his copy of the Sforxiada alluded to, ii. 291.
Hohenlinden, plains of— seen from the top of Freysing cathedral, iii. 327.
Holbein, John, father of Hans Holbein— pictures by, at Augsbourg, iii.

207, 211.

Hommartin, village in the road to Strasbourg, ii. 548.

Honfleur, passage thither from Havre — and departure from thence to Caen

in the Diligence, i. 251-5; description of the country from Honfleur to

Caen, i. 256, 260.
Hook, Mbi, late librarian of the Ste. Genevieve library, ii. 363-4.
Hotel de FiUe, at Paris, ii. 89 ; de Soubise, at Paris, ii. 90 ; de Cluny, at Ptffis,

ii. 118 ; at Stuttgart — ^with copper-plate, iii. 136.
Houdan, between Dreux aad Pftris, with copper-plate vignette of the

castle, ii. 69,70.
Houiet, old, at Caen, i. 277 ; at Strasbourg, iii. 81-2.
Hulmandel, M. C, the excellence of his lithogn^hical publications, iii. 319.

lUyricui Quirinui, Pope and Martyr, copper-plate of, iii. 223.

Izii

INDEX OF PERSONS,

Inttitute at Parii, description of tiie library of, ii. 370 ; sitting of the society,
ii. 429.

Inderlambach, near the lake Gmundeny iii. 366.

liobejf, M., his painting in a copy of Ossian, formerly belonging to Bona-
parte, ii. 376.
Ischel, near the lake Gmunden, iii. 365.
/vofy manufactures, at Dieppe, i. 18 ^ at Geislingen, iii. 182.

Jacijues, St,, church of, at Dieppe, i. 21.

J&eguet, head waiter at the H6tel-Vatel, at Rouen, i. 185.

Jaquiftot, Madame, her eminence as a punter in enamel, ii. 5(XX-502.

Jamet, St., monastery of, at Ratisbon, Supplement, xii.

Jeuft, at Bischo£&heim, iii. 102; at Forth, Sigsplemeni, zlii., &c.

John, King of France, original portnut — ^with o(^>per-p]ate of, iL 140.

Joieph II. Emperor of Austria, character of, iii 564.

Jouhert, M. bookseller at Coutances, i. 413.

Judges, at Rouen, i. 106 ; at Caen, 343-4.

Jumieges, description of the abbey of, L 196-205.

Karlsruhe, near Rastadt, iiL 1 16.

Kensmgtonksn acputintanee, met at Strasbourg, iii. 84.

Keus, /. and H, Messrs., their gn4[>hic talents commended. Pre/, ix. iii. 42.

Klein, M. librarian of the monastery of St. Florian, iii. 388, &c.

Klein, M., distinguished artist at Nurembei^g, with copper-plate fMNsimiks of

his drawings and engravings. Supplement, xzz?iii-xL
Koberger, Anthony, the famous printer at Nuremberg, his office, &e. Suppl,

xxii-iii. ; bronze head of his nephew John, in tiie possession of the author,

xxiil.

Kooh, late, one of the celebrated literary characters of Strasbourg, IiL 47>

Koch, M., a book-collector at Manheim, Supplement, Iv.

Kopitar, M. one of the librarians of the Imperial library at Vienna, iii. 448-

9 ; his opinion of the antiquity of a German Tersion of the Bible, 462.
Kopff, village near Landshut, iii. 361.

Kraemer, M . Augustus, librarian to the Prince -of Tour and Taxis, — kind at-
tentions of to the author. Supplement, x-xv.

Lacquais de Place, at the H6tel Vatel at Rouen, i. 43-183.

PLACES, AND TmNOS.

Lair Pierre Aimiy M., at Caen ; his patriotic zeal, and kind attention to the

author, i. 31 1-315 ; his parting farewell at Bayeux, i. 356.
Lamouroujp, M., botanical professor at Caen, i. 310.

Landshut, arrival at, viith anecdote of its capture by the FVench, iii. 329; ac-
count of the books in the Public Library, removed thither from the Um-
versity of Ingoldstadt, 330 ; copper-plate engraving of street scenery seen
from the library, 333 ; the chair and doctor's bonnet of the celebrated
Eckius, kept in the Public Library, iii. 336 ; opinion of a professor of
botany at Landshut, respecting Shakspeare, iii. 338 ; church of St. Martin,
the highest in Bavaria, 339.

Langlii^ M., one of the head librarians of the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 151 ;
his literary and social qualities, 438, &c. ; his praise-worthy conduct during
the revolution, 441.

Lasnes, late Marshal, anecdote of and Bonaparte, iii. 308.

Laugher, a distinguished engraver at Paris, ii. 508.

Laurent, M., distinguished punter at P&ris, ii. 520.

Latfs, M. an Opera singer at Strasbourg, iii. 83.

Lecrine, ^^^M, printer at Rouen, i. 133.

Lemanadier, at Rouen, engraving of, i. 109.

Lenoir, M. keeper of the monuments in the Rue des PetiU Augwtint— com"

mendation of his work upon the same, ii. 107-9.
Lesn^, M., book-binder and poet, at Paris, iL 412-421.
Levrault, M., a celebrated printer at Strasbourg, iii. 95.
Lewis, Charles, bookbinder ; his talents alluded to, i. 367 ; ii. 189, 245, 262,

399, 421.

Library, Public ; at Rouen, i. 161-179; at Caen, i. 324-340; at Bayeux, i.
371 ; at St. Lo, i. 396; at Coutances, 411 ; at Vire, 446; at Paris ^ the
Royal, ii. 128-318; the Arsenal, 318-341 ; of Ste. Genevieve, 342-362; the
Mazarine, 362^368; private library of the King, 371-380 ; at Strasbourg, iii.
50-69 ; at Stuttgart, 136-165 ; at Ulm (the Chapter Library), 187 ; of Augs-
bourg, 227-235 ; at Munich, 257-297 ; at Freysing, 327 ; at Landshut, 331-3 ;
at Salzburg, (monastic) 354 ; at Chremsminster monastery, 374 ; at St. Flo-
rian Monastery, 391 ; at Molk monastery, 409; at Gdttidc monastery,
427 ; at Vienna, 451, &c. ; at Clostemeuburg, 614 ; at Ratisbon, Suppl, xiv.
at Nuremberg, SuppL xxiii-v.

Library, Private; of Messrs. Le Prevost, Duputel, and Reanx, at Rouen, i.
153, 155, 158 : of a gentleman near Bayeux, i. 361 ; at Strasbourg, iii. 70-
77; of Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm, 193; of Professor May at Augsbonrg,
229 ; of the Emperor of Austria, at Vienna, iii. 589-599 ; of the Duke Al-
bert, at ditto, 599 ; of Count Fries, at ditto, 600; of Count Apponi, at ditto,
601 ; of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, Si^pl, x.

bdv

INDEX OF PERSONS,

Lhktmberger, M., the typogn^ihical antkpiaryt at Strisbaibg; his book

donation to Earl Spencer, iiL 79» 80.
LignoHy M,, celebrated engrarer at ii. 506.

IMieh<mne, town of, in Normaod^r* i* 2^7 ; andeat castle, 217, 221 ; inn of

the Three Negroes, 222.
Lmig or Ling, a town in Austria, brief description of, ilL jomey

from Linz to St. Florian, iii. 386-7.
IMhagraph^, as practised at Paris, ii. 513; at Bfunich^its ezcellenee there,

iiL 317, 320.

Lo, St, between Bayeux and Goutances, i. 393 ; anecdotes of itinerary
charlatans, with a copper-plate vignette, 394-5 ; library of the hotel de
Tille, 396 'y principal parish church, 397; andent strength and history of
the town, 399.

L&uii XII., gold medal of, bk the Cabinet des Mddailles at Paris, ii. 133;

portndtof, from an illuminated MS., 214.
Imit Xiy,, manner of taking possession of Strasbourg, iiL 10.
Imli XniL, homage paid to, at Rouen, L 182-3; his return to FVanoc,

celebrated at Falaise, u. 23; his patronage of Madame Jaquotot» tha

enamellist, ii. 500.
Loup, St,, visit to, in the neighbourhood of Bayeux, i. 359.
Lothariui, Emperor, his copy of the Gospels, ii. 163-6.
Louvre, description of, ii. 84-5.

Lucas Cranach, extraordinary spedmens of his painting, in the dtaddat
Nuremberg, Supplement, xxviii.

Luther, Martin, his hymn sung by children at Strasbourg, iu. 54 ; his mo-
nument by Ohmacht, iii. 98 ; collection of tracts relating to his contro-
versy with Eckius kept in the public library at Landshut, iii. 336 : portrait
of his wife at Nuremberg, Supplement, xxviiL

lAUtembourg gardem, and palace of, ii. 94, 427.

Jf *, Lieutenant, meeting and parting with, 416, 417.

Mack General, his treachery or cowardice, in the surrender of Ulm, iii. 184.

Maclou, St., church of, at Rouen, i. 80-2.

Mackenzie, Mr., his beautiful drawings of the Cathedrals of France, Preface,
viii-ix.

Malkerbe, view of his house at Caen, i. 278 ; medal struck in honour of him,
312.

Manheim; arri\'alat the Golden Fleece, now so called: visit to Dom.Artaria,
and friendliness of his reception; his collection of paintings, &c., and
extensive business; book-collectors there; the public gardens, and old

PLACES AND THINO&

pakce; coltore of gnpes ia Uie Beli^dNmrliood; journey from Maoheim

to i Suppiemeni, lii-lxfi.
Magdalen, statue of the, by Caaoya, ii. 487, &c.
Mmmtr^, Sen. andJun., bookseOen at Caen, i. 322-3.
Mamion Cefard, books printed by— in the Royal library at P^, ii. 280.
Marwmut, village of, near Rouen, i. 197.
Marmhny Bobertde, his arms, 11.240.

Martin, Franfoisy a singular bibliomaniac at Caen, i. 325; his copy of the

jiikenw Normannorum, 326-6.
Mary, Queen o/ Scats, portrait of, ii. 477 ; altar of goM, belonging <o, noir

in the palace at Munich, iii. 248.
Maaard, celebrated engrarer at P^, ii. 605.
Ma^er, an ancient printer at Rouen, i. 123.

Majnmilian the Great, adventure of, upon the top of Ulm cathedral, 191 ;
his own copy of the Tewrdanckh in the Imperial Library at Vienna* IH.

529.

May, ProfeMor, public librarian at Augsbourg, iii. 226 ; purchase of books
from, 229.

Mazarine Library, description of, ii. 362, 368.

Mazarin, Cardinal, portrait of, in the collection of Q. Cranfurd, ii. 477.

Meau», cathedral of, ii. 526.

Mhgard, M., printer at Rouen, i. 129, 132.

Melanekthan, his portrait when young, from an original picture by Christ.
Amberger, at Augsbouig, iii. 215-6; literary pieces of, collected at Nu-
remberg, Supplement, uvi.

Mercatar, Gwdo, book printed by, in the public library at Vire, i. 447.

Mercier, St, lAger, Abhk, some account of, with engraving of his portrait,
ii. 353, 362.

, his posthumous labours, ii. 360, 378.

Metz, briefly described, on the road from Manheim to Paris, Supplement, lis.

Millin, M,, one of the curators of the royal library at Paris ; his dissertation
upon the medal of Louis XIL, ii. 134 his literary character, 433, 438 ;
library, 434 ; symposium at Paris, 435 ; preservation of national antiquities,
437 } writes the account of the Roxburghe banquet, 444 ; his death, and
portrait of, 522, 524.

Minne-Singeri, or love poets, history of, at Strasbourg, iii. 90.

Miual, MS., several in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 202 ; in the collec-
tion of M. Denon, ii. 462; in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii. 152;
in the Royal Library at Munich, iii. 270; in the Imperial Library at
Vienna, iii. 465.

Mieeale, printed, copies of at Rouen, i. 165 ; at Caen, 336^ at Bayeoz,
373,375 ; St. S^, 421; in the Ubrary of the Arsenal, U. 323.

INDEX OF PERSONS,

MdLK, in Austria, Monastbrt of^Hioooimt of a fiiH to Une same, with a
description of the interior, Gnchiding the Hbraiy aaddmrdi) and s copper-
plate engraving of a riew of the exterior, and of the porfnit of Berthold
Dietmayr, the restorer of the monastery, IH. 406, 418; aneedote of the
French here, on theor march to Vieima, 414 ; monaitfry rerisited, on
return from Vienna, Supplement, v.

Moll, Baron Fon, one of the earaton of tiie Pkiblk libary at Minidi, iH.
306, &c. ; ezcuniimto his rilk, 307.

MoMASTBRiBS : St. Peter, at Salsbuif, 349, 366; o£ Cfarenamiiiater,
370, 381; St. norian, 387, 404; Molk, 406, 418; O&ttwie, ^ «ec.;
Clostemeubiiif, 613-9^ Oapachliii, 619, &c.| Sla. EnuMraiii and James,
Ratisbon, Supplemeni, x-xiv.

Moniauiier, J. L. dmeheue de, portrahof, in tlK eolleetai of Q. CSranfiud,
«. 473.

Montmarenci, Cattle, at TaaeanrlUe; deaeripHon, and eopper-plate Tiew of,

i. 234-8.

More, Sir Tkomai, his copy of the work of Eaooei lywf ehgmm, See., for-
merly belonging to Eckuis— 4n the Pnblie Library at Landshut, iii 337.

Moreau, late General, commendatkm of by Barai Von MoD, Ui. 306.

Morm, andent printer at Rouen— his ^rice, i. 183-4

Morteux, the MM, public librarian at Vu%, i. 445.

Mouton, M. Le, Cnr6 of St. Trinity Church, at FUaise, u. 20, 25.

Moj/eant, Mr. late public librarian at Caen— some account of, i. 328, &c.,
his mission to search libraries, 330 ; at Bayeux, 372; at FUaiseb ii. 19.

Mosler, M., bookseller at Freysing, iii. 328.

Munich ; appearance of the city, population, &c., iiL 241 ; the ealhedral, 242;
fine monument in the choir, 242 ; church of St. Michael, 243; of St
Caetan, 245 ; palace of Maximilian, 246, 249; pkture gallery, 249, 252;
palace of Schlebheim, 252; public garden, 253; a threatemng storm, 254 ;
market women, with copper-plate, 255 ; the public Ubrary, 251— descrq^
tion of the MSS. and rarer printed books, 259 — ^298; book acquisitiotts,
and booksellers, 299, 306; curators of the pnblu; library, 306, 313; M.
Hess, engraver, 314-5; M. Nockher, 316: Ldthography,317.

Mffit^oui intervieip, with Strat^er, at Bayeux, i. 357, 363.

Nanct; approach to, ii. 537; description of, 537, 545; copper-plate views
of the old and new gates, 538; public garden, by moonlight, 539; the ca-
thedral, 539; churches, 540; booksellers, 541 ; Le Dragon Rouge, 542;
public library, 543.

NenndeVy BttchntI, the fnend of Budseus, portndtof, iii. 353.

PLACES AND THINGS.

Ixvii

Ne&markt, a post town between Landshut and Altdting, iii. 340; between

Ratiflbon and Nuremberg, Supplement, xri.
Nejf, late Afanhal, spot where he wtig shot, ii. 427.
Nicholas, St., village near Nancy, ii. 545.

Nockher, Afr., banker at Munich — his kind attentions to the author, iii. 316-7»
365.

NuREMBXRO; approach to, 5ii/>/)^ff»<ftl> zvii— copper-plate vignette of a
portion of the walls, xviii— of a townswoman met in the vicinity of, xiz;
appearance and population of the town, xx ; description of the churches,
with copper-plate views of the interiors of St. James and St. Mary, xix,
xxii j of the public library, xxiii; of the citadel, xxvi, xxx; of the town
hall, XXX; decay of art and commerce, xxxi; writers upon the antiqui-
ties and customs, &c., of the town, xviii, xx; supposed residence of
Anthmy Koberger, the feunous printer of Nuremberg, in the xvth century,
xxii, &c. ; the curiosities of Baron Derschau, xxxii, xxxv ; negotiation
for the Codew Ebnerianus, a Greek ms. of the New Testament of the
xiith century, xxxvi; present state of the fine arts at, xxxviii, xl; anti-
quity of some of the bookselling-establishments, xli ; excursion to Furth,
in the neighbourhood of, and purchase of books of Heerdegen, a book-
seller there, xli-ii ; gaiety of sabbath costume, xliii ; departure from, to
Manheim, xliv.

Oberlin, one of the celebrated literary characters of Strasbourg, iii. 45-6, 90.
Odilo, Klama, Mr., librarian at the monastery of Gdttwic, iii. 422.
Ohmacht, sculptor, at Strasbourg, iii. AT, 97.

Olivier Baeselin, price of a copy of Ms Vaude vires, i. 322; copies of that
work in the public library at Caen, 337 ; some account of that work, and
of its author, 433, 444 ; original MS. of, in the possession of a private
genUeman at Bayeux, 364; copy of, presented to the author at Vire, 433,
&c.

Organ, in the church of St. Godard, at Rouen, i. 83 ; in the abbey of St.
Ouen, i. 75; in the abbey of St. Stephen at Caen, 288; at Coutances,
404 ; at St. Germun des Prb, at Paris, ii. 98 ; in the cathedral of
Strasbourg, iii. 36 ; in the church of the monastery of St. Florian, 399.

Ottley, Mr. W. Y., his fine collection of engravings alluded to, iii. 600 ;
Supplement, xxxvi.

Ouen, St., abbey of, at Rouen, i. 69, 78; refectory attached to, 77.

OuUljf, Pont, village between Vire and Faliuse, ii. 5.

P * ., Captain, R. N., pleasant fellow-traveller — met at Nancy, ii. 539; and
at Strasbourg, iii. 98.

kfiii

Awirgrf oee fHrnhwi; ^ -»

Pdirii de JuaiM, utRaaen, i. 108, 6 ; Mib Ro^y, st Ml, & Bl^ .

Pa/itft\8<?riuir(/, FaSenee-plBte by, ii. 494.

Pai/tiw, Mr., Vice PHndpal of the noiMlay at M 9lk— liiB^ attftntiom to

the aathor, iii. 413, Stc

Paper and printing, ordinary, at P^, ii. 410 ; at VienBa, iiL 610.

Paris; approach lo,'!i. 73^; the Botilentfds, wiHi a copper-plate view of

' r^BaiOmmhh ItoHem, 76, 80; the Thinleries, 80, 84 ; QiamiM Elyi^i,

* 1*81; Mail R03ral,8K2; Gaff6 dee mllle coionnes, 82 ; Jardindes Fbuites,
83; Louvre, 84-5; Bridges, 87; Halle auz Bib, 88; Ezdiange, 89;
HaCel Sottbke, 90; Street Scenery, 91,94; Notre Dame, 95; Sl.Ger-
Tus, 96; St. Eustache, 97 ; St. Germain des Pk-b, 97; St. Germain anx
Auxerrois, 98; the Sorbonne, 99; the new Ste. GencTi^ve, or FniUieon,
99, 100; St. Solpice, 100; the Oratoire, 103; St. Rodi, 103; FAasomp.

'X'ViOD, 104; St. Philippe da Roule, 104; a PariBian sabbath, 105; mo-
numents in the Rue des Petits Augustins, 107; Fountains, 110, 114;
topographical woilu upon, 115, 117; Hotel de Cfamy, 118; old and

^^^mMerh Psrit, 119, 120; ancient manners, custoais, and locality of Fuis,
120, 127; general description of the Royal Library, 128, 148; ^ public

{ <'>Hbrarians, 131, 150, 151; Cabinet des MedaiDes, 1^6, 137; OMiet des

' ^^ £stampes, 138, 144; account of the illumhiated MSS.; 165, 245$* of the
early printed books in the royal coUection, 246^ 318 ; library of the

< ^n/taienal, 318, 341 ; Library of Ste. Genevieve, ^ 363; Abb6 Merder
Saint L^, late librarian, 354, 362; the Maarine Library, 362, 368;
Library of the Institute, 370; private library of the Kiag, 371, 3/6;

^"tfome aee<mnt <tf the late Abb^ Rive, 381, 385; booksellers, 387, 404;
printers, 405, 411; bookbinders, 413, 4^; men of letters, DomBrial,
the Ahb^ Bdtencourt, 423, 430; Messrs. Gail, Millin, and Langib,
430, 440; a Roxburghe banquet, 443, 452; collection of M. Denon, 453,
467; of M. Qointin Cranfurd, 468, 480. of the Marquis de Sommariva,
481, 490; notice of M. Willemins Monnmens In^U, 491, 493; miscel-
laneous national antiquities, 495^ 502; of the Fine Arts, 502, 515;
national character, 516, 520; departure from, 524.
Pascal, Blaise, portrait of, in the collection of Q. Cranfurd, IL 473^
Paul, St., church of at Rouen, i. 86-7.

Payne, Mr. John, his purchase of the second edition of Shakspeare, from
the public library at Augsbourg, iii. 231 ; his purchase of the Code^
Ebnerianus, Supplement, xxxrii.

Peregrinm^ B, G,, vision of, to Count Albert, with copper-plate, iu. 221.

Piriaux, M., printer, and member of the Academy at Rouen, i. 127-9.

Pfister, traeU printed bp^ in the Royal Library at Ptois, ii. 260; the Four

FliAC^S AND THINOS.

NitiorieM, Bihlia Pamperum, LaL and Germ, 261 ; FMei^ 1461 — fomerly
in the Royal Library, now vestored, to tke Wolfenbuttle library, iL 261.

Phaltbourg, a fortified town near tbe Vosget, ii. 649. .

Pkardj Guerm, Mr., veiidor of ehap-bookfl Irt Caeo, i. dl7"8.

Pichon, Mr., founder of the Public Library at Vire, L 446.

Pictures, see Gallery,

Pilgram, Anikonf, architect of Vienna oathedral, ill. 64a^.

Pilgrims, halt of, in the road from St. Pdlten to Odttwic Monattery, wkh a

copper-plate engraving of the same party, on their nearer approach to the

same monastery, iii. 421-2, 433.
Pieam, portnut of^ from the punting of Antonello da Messinap H. 467-8L
Plochingen, curious old town, near Stuttgart, liL 181.
Pluqnet, Mr. an apothecary and book vendor at Bayeux, i. 363.
Pdlten, St., post-town between MQlk and Vienna^ iiL 419.
Pont UEveque, between Honfleur and Caen, L 267. — Owilif, between Vh«

and Falaise, ii. 5.
Portraits, list of, in the Public Library at Caen, L 327.
Portraits, engraned, number of, in the collection of the Enq)eror ef katXn^

iu.698.

Postillion, in the Dieppe diligence, i. 37 ; at Ttocarville, i. 236 ; in the^nchy
of Baden^ iiL 101 ; in the territory of Bavwia, IiL 200; ia Austria, iii. 369.
Prater, the, at Vienna, description of, iii. 582, &c.

PretfostLe, Mr. his drawings of the Abbey of St. Ouen, L77 ; hifl antiqaarian ]
knowledge, 152 ; list of some rare books in his library, 153 $ attentioaa to
the author, 187.

Printing, ancient and modem, at Rouen, L 12S-152; at Viemia, iii. 606. ;

see Stereotype.
Printselling and Print shops, at Fnris, ii. 512.
Protestant church at Caen, I 341. See Catholics.
Prudhon, Parisian pdnter, character of his pictures, iL 483.
Pucelle if Orleans ; see j4re, Jeanne ^.

Pulpit, in Bayeux cathedral, L 349; of stone, in Strasbourg cathedral, iii 35;
of marble and g^t in the church of the monastery of St. Florian, 400| en-
tirely of gilt, in the monastic churdk of Molk, iiL 416.

Quays, at Rouen, i. 108.

Quilleheuf, Mr., his preaching in Rouen cathedral, i. 67.

Quillebeuf, fishing village in Normandy, L 219.

Quintin CraufUrd, late Mr., his collection of pictures, ii. 468-480.

Radel, Petit, Mr., librarian of the Maiarine Library, ii. 364-369.

WDEK OF PERSONS,

JUmUmUei, & i/cryiMM d^, jMrfrift^ in the ool^
ii474.

JUtmpartt of Henna, remarks iqM>ii» iii. 610.

iUnner, Mr.» Pablic Librarian at Niirembei]|;, Suppl, xiii., &c.

Ratdbon : account of the town, cathedral, monasteries, and public cdiec-

tions, Stippl, viL-XY.
JMmM, Mr., his drawings of flowers — coUeetioo of, in the King's FHfate

library at Pbris, ii. 376.
R^itrmaikm, ut Simbtmrg, anecdotes connected with, iii. 87.
Rembrandt, M. Denon's collection of prints by, ii. 460.
Remmdiere, M. Ixmon de la, at \^re — ^his bibliomaaiacal ardour and libiary,

i. 431-46 ; society 458 his love of, and translations from, Thomson's

Seasons, 459, &c. ; opiidon of onr reviews, 460; afternoon's ramble with

the author, 460; friendly attentions to the author, IL 2.
Renowtrd, Mr., bookseller at Paris, iL 392; character of his publications,

39^ ; his choice library, 394-7 .
Repomnrs, what— «t Falidse, ii. 60.
,Remewi, Edmburg'h and Qaarterlff, opinion upon, L 460.
Revaimthn, late, in France, direful effects of, i. 88, 180, 204, 362, 371, 405,

iL 360; iii. 50.
,Rhemi, its cathedral, &c. briefly described, St^jd. Ix.
JUaum, Mr., at Rouen— his library, i. 10&.158.

Rk9€, AM, the late — account of, with oopper-plate of his portrait, iL 381-
385.

Robec, Raede, at Rouen, i. 114-5.
Reberteau, place so called near Strasbourg, iii. 13.
Rob Roy, read for the first time at Strasbourg, iii. 76.
Roger, Mr. stippling engraver at Ptais, ii. 509-

Rohfiritsch, a Talet— hired at Strasbourg, ilL 99f — his expedition fiwi Man-

heim to Stuttgart, iii. 171-2.
Rdiin, Mr., protestant preacher at Caen, L 341.

RoUo, the monument of, in Rouen cathedral, L 52, his patronage of ecelcsias
tical architecture, 198 ; 274.

Romain, &r Romamu, St. and the dragon— at Rouen, i. 66.

RouxN : approach to the city, i. 38-40 ; general impression from appearance
of the streets, i. 40-2 ; old copper-plate views of the town, and of its rid-
nity, 40^1 ; Hdtel Vatel 42; Boulevards, 434 ; population. 45; cathedral,
47 ; copper-plate view of the exterior of the south transept, 50; chapel of
our Lady, 51 ; Monuments (with engravings) in the cathedral, 51-64; an-
cient library attached to it, 65; ancient least on Ascension Day, 66; con-
firmation, seen by the author, 67 ; the abbey of St. Ouen, 69-78 ; churches
of St. Maclou, St. Vincent, St. Vivien, St. Gervab, and St. Paul, 80^;

PLACES AND TfflNOS.

Ixxi

revolationary depredatioBB, 88, 180; Halles de Commeroe, 90-2 ; cattle-'
market, 93 ; Rue de la Groflse Horloge, 94 ; Place de la Pucelle, 95 $ repre-
sentation of the Champ de Drap d'Qr, 100^2; PtJius de Justice, 103-6;
Judges in the Tribunal of Commerce, 106 ; Quays, 108 ; Bridge of Boats,
1 10 ; Rue du Bac, with engraving, 1 U-2 ; manufactories, 1 13 ; Rue de Re-
bec, 1 14 ; Mont Ste. Catharine, 1 1^122 ; old and modem printing at Rouen,
123-161 ; chap-books, religious, moral, and amusing, 134-148 ; booksellers,
149 161 ; book-collectors, 162-160 ; account of the MSS. and early printed
books in the Public Library, 161-184; departure from, and distant view of,
with engraving, 186-8; picture gallery, 162.

RoMburgke CM, aUuded to, i. 184 ; ill. 302 ; iiL 446 ; Roxburghe banquet,
given by the author at P^, ii. 441-461.

Rue, Abh6 d!? fo, his Treatise upon the Armoric bards, i. 282; description of
his person, i. 309 ; appreciation of his talents, i. 363.

Sabbath, the, at Dieppe, i. 19-24; at Falaise, ii. 69; at Ptais, ii. 106; at
Vienna, iii. 684, &c. at Nuremberg, SuppL xliiL-iv.

Sac^f, SilveMtre de, Mr., his high character as an Orientalist, ii. 438.

Saloon, in the monastery of St. Florian, magnificence of, iii. 402, &c.

Salzbubg, approach to, iu. 322, 329, 343, 346; the hotel of the Golden
Schiff, 346 ; the Citadel, with copper-plate engraving, 347 ; Place, near the
cathedral, 348; diminished population of the town, 348; churches ci Sie.
TVinUi and Seboitien, ibid. ; monastery of St. Peter, with an account of the
library and book purchases therefrom, 349-366 ; mountainous country in
the vicinity of Salzburg, 367 ; height of the prindpal mountams, ibid ; de-
parture from Salzburg, 361.

SalMburg marble, commendation of, iii. 403.

Sandrart, his chef d'oeuvre, as a, painter, at Nuremberg, Suppl. xxix.
Sarcander, P. /. librarian of the Capuchin convent, in the Rossau, near

Vienna; his Latin bill of parcels, of books bought from thence, iu. 621.
Saveme, entrance into — and mountainous country in the vicinity of, ii.

661-3.

Saudmpi, tillage on the road to Strasbourg, ii. 633.

Sa:pe, Marshal, account of his monument, in the church of St. Thomas, at

Strasbourg, iiL 43.
Schalbacher, a bookseller at Vienna, purchase of books from, iii. 607> &c.
Scherer, Mr., head librarian of the Public Ubrary at Munich, iii. 312-3;

kind assistance of, in the translation of a German metrical ms. of Sir TVii-

trero, 264.

INDEX OF PERSONS,

SekUUr, colossal bust of, by Daanacker, iii. 173^.

Sehlichtegroil, Mr., one of the canton of the Public Libnry at Mmiich, iiL

310; kind attentions of, iM.
Soklouer, Mr. Ptofeasor at Heidelberg, his Universal Biogn^hj,*' Sufpi.

Sehoepfin^ among the celebrated characten of Stnsbooig, iii. 45.
SekMrunm Palace, near Vienna, 675.

Sehweighmuier, L ten. Mr., his talents aUuded to, iii. 79-20; his edition of

Herodotus, 95$ interview with, at Baden» iiL 105, &c. ; his portrait, 110 ;

evening walk with, iiL 114.
Sekweighmuerjun.^., his kmd attentions to the author, iiL 25, 60, 97;his

Memoin of Koch, iiL 47*
Sebastian, St., sculptured figure of, in the church at Falaise, ii. 22.
Segwn, Mr. account of his publications at Vire, L 449. See Bibliooeaphi-

CAL Indbx.

Sever, St., between Ville^eu and Vm, i. 421.
Sevre, near Pbris, ii. 72.

^ebenkeee, Mr. Professor, public librarian at Landshut — kind attentions to

the author, iii. 330332.
Seeietff o/Bellee Lettres, at Rouen: sitting of, L 180.
S^einne, Mr., his fine dramatic library, ii. 301.

Semmarhfa, Marquis de, his collection of paintings and sculpture, iL 480-
490.

Sarboime, neighbourhood of, and College Royale, iL 386.
Specklhn, Darnel, Ids plate of Strasbourg cathedral, iii. 41.
S^^encer, Countess, prints from her designs in a private house near Bayenz,
L362.

, Early his purchase of the Valdarfer Boccaccio, L 236; his visit

to Paris, and confrontation of his own impression of the woodcut of St
Christopher, with a supposed similar impression at Paris, ii. 143-145;
his library aUuded to, L 433 ; ii. 263, 265, 266, 273, 311,314, 316, 317; iiL
56, 79, 132, 140, 192, 288, 306, 381, Suppl. x., zxv , xxziv.; his opimon
respecting a copy of Ulric Han's edition of Servius in VirgiHum, in the
Mazarine library, iL 366 ; is toasted, with the Roxbuighe Chib, 443 ; f&ted
by the Society of Bibliophiles at Paris, 449-450.

Spire, on the banks of the Rhine, near Manheim, desolated state of the catiie-
dral, Suppl. Iviii.

Steinbach, Ervin de, one of the architects of Strasbourg catiiedral, iiL 15-17.
Stereotype printings, andent-^ the PubUc Library at Augsbouig, iiL 235;

modem, about to be established at ^enaa, iii. 608.
Stoeger, Mr., bookseller at Munich, iiL 299^.

PLACES AND THINGS.

Ixxili

Stothard, Mr.Jun., his laboun connected with the Bayenx tapestry, i. d66»

383.

Strasbourg; approach, and entrance into, IL 664; the IVotestaat Reli^oD,
iii. 6; treacherous surrender of the dty to L(mis XIV., 8; the cathedral,
with account of publications and prints relating to, 11, 41 1 chureh of 8t
Thomas, 41 1 the Public Library, 49 1 booksellers, 71 1 society, 74| euTirons
of Strasbourg, 81 1 mannen and customs, 85 1 Ree^aaonry, 89 1 literature^
&C.91.

Strattman, AbM, the a resident in the Monastery of Mfilk, and late public H-
brarian of the Imperial library of Vienna, SL 408-410, &c. i urges the
author to visit the monastery of G5ttwic, 411.

Straubing, town near Ratisbon, Su/^l. vi.

StudenU, in the Public library at Rouen, 1. 176.

i9ruTT6ARTi arriTal at, iiL 116| crudftx at, with a ptete, 117i booksellers,
119 f M. Le Bret, public librarian, 131 1 the Publk: or Royal library, 134-
167 1 copper-plate view of the street scenery near, 136 1 Private Library of
the Kii^^ of Wirtemberg, with a fiMN«imile of the Trinity, of the xnth
century, iiL 167-166 1 descriptkm of the Royal PliJatie, iiL 166 1 description
oftheUte Queen, 168-171; attendance at the levee for a Mbliograi^deal
negotiation, 168.

Tancmvilief village of, in Normandy i route thither from Bolbec, L 231 1 Aa>
berg^ste, 232 1 Montmorend castle, and neighbourhood^ with vignette and
separate y\ew of, 233-4 1 anecdote of the postillion, L 236.

Tepettrp, at Bayeuz, account of, with woodcuts and copper-|dates, L 376, &c.
in the cathedral of Strasbourg, iii. 30.

ThoUf De, was an eye witness of the fiital wound received by Henri II. from
Montmorend, i. 64 1 numerous coi^ of books, from his library, in the
royal collection at Paris, S. 317-

Thowenin^ Mr., book-buider at Pteb, ii. 416-418.

Thundef'ttorm, over the dty of Rouen, i. 113 1 over the town of Baden, Iii.

106 f over that of Munich, iiL 264.
Tfniileries, description of, ii. 80-84.

Tmbitanei in Germm^, brief description of their general character, iii. 369.

Taul, town on the road to Strasbourg, iL 636.

TraUewr^ Mr., a book^ollector at Manhdm, Suppl, liv.

Travellmg, dearth of fellow-travellers in France, ii. 666.

TreuUel and fHirtZf booksdlers at Paris, ii. 389 1 excursion to their country

villa, iL 390i benevolent character of Madame Treuttel, 390 { bookseUeriat

Strasbourg, iii. 72.

<I\imef, Jknumm, Mr., lib wrtqiwimi^Hrtil* api l«p> of viit^ tikoM^, u
162-3 ; dbtncUr of hk Tkir «§ Narmam^^ Erefiuc, z.

Vlm; appro«:h to. Hi. 1884; k(M^liie iS'/^ir cosuBe^^ 1&4,
193; visit to ProfesBor Veesenmeyer, iiL 186; deacriplioii of il>e cBtbe-
aiid of the Kbnry within it, 188,188^ 182; of the eboir^ 189; view

I. from the tower of the cathedral, 190; adveataretiiereii^oii, 190; co]^er-
piale view of the exterior, 191 ; market place, and credulity of ^ common
people, 199 ; departure from, 200 ; date of die completion of the caAedral,

- 287.

UrntU, St., legend of, ii. 199.

FMere, DwtkeueJe la, portrait o( m Ae coUeetkm of Ifr. Q. Gnnfod, M.
474.

y^n ProeU M., one of the public fibrariaas at Faria, ii. 131 ; a guest at the
RoriNDghe banqnet,442, &e.; at M. kdHn's dejenn^ hhifoiircbette,435;
his kind attentions to the author, 132; his forthcoming catalogue of books
printed iqion vdhim, in the Royal lilnnry, 247; his pmdiaee cf the mo-
rality of the Bloiphemaieun th jmm de Dim, u. 301 ; his himwitatkm at
the departure of the FabUi printed bp PJUier m 1471, 460; his print of
St. Bemardinus, 614.

y§eienmeffer, Profeuor, at Ulm ; visit to, and ifocomit of his library, fare-
well sahitation of, iii. 186, 193^, 197.

Fermi, M., his lithographical productions, ii. 613.

Fenaiilei, ii. 71.

Vienna ; approach to, iii. 442-3 ; arrival at the hotel called the Crown
Hungary, 444 ; description of the Imperial Library, and head librarians,
447, &c. ; number and value of the volumes in the same library, 461 ;
copper-plate- riew of the interior of the library, 464; description of some
of the MSS. in the library, 466, 486 ; description of the rarer and earlier
printed books in the same, 483, 633 ; population and general description
of Vienna, 636 ; number of Jews at, 637 ; national character and sodety
at, 639; the streets, 641 ; fountains, 642; mode of living, 644; cairiages,
646 ; description of the cathedral, with copper-plate view of the exterior,
647, 666; monuments in the cathedral, 663; church of St. Mary, 666;
publication descriptive of ecclesiastical edifices at Vienna, 666-7 ; church of
the Augustins, and monument by Canova, to the memory of the Duchess
Albert of Saxe-Teschen, 668; convents, 663; Gi^iuchin and Fhmdscan,
663-6; the two Belvedere Palaces, 667, 673; the young Bonaparte, 574;
Pdace of SchSnbrunn, 676; the Treasury, 677; Theatres, &c., 678;
the Prater, 683, 686; fire works, near the same, 688; account of the
Emperor of Austria's private library, &c., 689, 699; of the collection of
drawings, &c. of Duke Albert, 699 ; of the libraries of Counts Fries and
Apponi, 600; literature, 603; booksellers, 606; printing, 608; the

PLAGB6 AND ^THWOa

nuBupvtt, 610; mooMtary of CaMtmeutMq^t in the viciiiityot
the Capachins, in the Roflsan, 619 ; depvtiire firom, SkppiemeiU, v.

mie Dieu, post town, between GrtnTille and Vire, i . 420.

yi»c€ni, St., diuix^ of, at Rouen, i. 82.

Virb; approadi to, i. 422; the town, 423; hdtel of the GhewU Blanc, 423,
436; market place and old castle, mth copper-plate view of, 424; vig-
nette of the castle, 425; bibliography, 428, 458; aocoont of the Vandevires
of Olivier Bassdin, 433, &c.; of the Public library, 446; founder and
history of the Public Library, 447; manuftctories, manners and customs,
449, &c. ; history of printing at, 455.

yhrgil, two andent editions of— procured from the Royal Library at Stutt-
gart, iiL 170, 171-3.

Hrgin Mary, wretched representation of at St. Lo., i. 397; price of plaister
images of, at St. Lo, 398; figure of, in the ctthedral at Coutaooes, 404;
wood cut of, i. 320.

yUalii, M., {Nresident of the society of belles-lettres at Rouen, i. 180.

f7/fy, a small town, <m the road to Strasburg, ii. 531.

Hvien, St, church of at Rouen, i. 82-4.

roiture to Ville Dieu, i. 419 : from Dreux to Paris, iL

f^oltaire, his bust by Houd<m, in the collection of Mr. Q. Craufurd, ii. 471 1
his figure, in the Library of the Institute, ii. 370.

f^o#^«ff, mountainous country near Strasbomg, iii. 20; number of baromal
castles in the same, ibid. ; libraries in the same, iii. 70.

Waterloo, print representing the efifects of the battle of, ii. 510.

H^atU, Mr., about to establish a stereotype press at Vienna, iiL 608.

Wellington, Duke of, his portrait by Gerard, iL 507; in aquatint, 51 1 ;
anecdote relating to, at Phalsbourg, 550 ; at Strasbourg, iii. 85 ; at Vienna,
606 ; at Neiimarkt, between Ratisbon and Nuremberg, Supplement, xd ;
his military character appreciated, ibid. ; ii. 467 \ sale of his portrait, en-
graved by Bromley, from Sir T.Lawrence's painting, at Manheim, Supple-
ment, liii.

Wenceilaue, Emperor of Bohemia, his MS. Bible (with three copper-plate

engravings of his person) in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii. 461, 463.
fnikie, D., R. A., engravings from his pictures in the collection of M.

Langlb, ii. 439 ; his talents complimented by M. B^nard, ii. 510.
fFillemin, M., his antiquarian labours commended, ii. 491-4.
fniliam the Conqueror, his tomb and supposed portndt in the abbey of St

Stephen, at Caen, i. 284, 294; Pdace of, at Caen, 289; collection of

chartularies, granted by, ii. 236.
fTmdowi, painted, in the abbey of St Ouen, i^ 71 ; in the churches of Sdnts

IxxTi

INDEX OF PERSONS, te.

^^Boeiit and Qodard* at Rouen, L 82-3; in jChe ebm^ at Dreoz, IL 66 1 io
the church «t Tool, 635; in the eethednl at Strasboiiig, lii. 31 } in the
church attached to tiie Public library at Stnvboiirs. in. 49.
fFwiew^g^ itOe Queen of, description of her penon and manneri, nl eoort,
iii. 168, 170; her funeral, 175.

Ymng, Mr., libnffian to the Emperor of Anstria^ and Secretary to the
PHvy Coondl of State— hit kind attention to the aathor, uL 599.

Zeimer, J, printer at Ulm, supposed place of lus residence, iii. 192.

[ Ixxvii ]

ADDENDA.

Vol, i. p. 309. The History of Caen by the Abb^ de la Rue, ^
has just appeared m two small octavo volumes (not quarto--4b5 here
spedfied— and as I had been previously informed) under the title of
Essais Historiquea sur la Vilk de Caen et son Arrondissement.
Caeny 1820. With the exception of two or three indifferent plates
of relics of scidpture, and of tiles, with armorial beanngs, this
work is entirely divested of ornaments. There are some useful
historical details in it, taken from the examination of records and
achives: but a HiaTOBT of Caen b yet a desideratum.

Vol. i. p. 444. The new edition of the Faudevires a£ Oli-
vier Basselin, here alluded to, has recently appeared under the
editorial care of Mr. Louis Dubois, under the title of " Vaux^^
Vires d'OUvier BamJin^ Pdeie Normandy de la Jin du env.
Siede^ &c. Poisson^ Caeny 1821. 8vo. pp. 264: Paper at^SL J
fr. Pap. v^ 15 fir.

Vol. ii. p. 59. Falaise. The Sabbath-prepaiation, and pro-
cession thereftom, here recorded, denoted the celebration of the
Fete Djeu. I hiqjpened to be at Paris, two years afterwards,
on the celebration of the same fete ; and walked between the fa-
mous GU>blein tapestry, extended on either side, for at least 100
yards, towards the Louvre. The grandest proces»on in Paris, on
that day, was from the TTiuilleries to the parish dburch of Si.
Gemmns aux Auxerrois. The Duchesse d'Angouleme walked
in this procession; and it happening to rain, several umbrellas,
from the bystanders, were offered for her acceptanoe--but she de-
clined receiving one. These procesaons are moving in all parts of
Paris, by times in the morning : but the people, generally q)eak-
ing, heed them very little.

Vol. ii. p. 313. The first Aldine Arisiotk VFOV YEhLVU. Not-
withstanding I deferred to the opinion of Mr. Van Praet, and had
even supposed, bom the evidence here adduced, that there was no

cofpy of tht/ril iFotume of dik adHioD

wijB sppeftrod to me strange and unaoooantaUe, that a printer,
like Aldus, dmild lum t^trutk off cxipieB upon Tdhmi, of tlie rr-
fMOfiMf^ volumes of an edition^ of wlndi there had been no similar
iminressions taken of the ^rst : and thereby rendering every mem-
faranaoeous cc^ ino(xnplete. It has at length turned out that
there doM exist a copy of the Jirsi vcdume upon vellum: and die K-
farary of New Ccdlege, Oxford, boasts of this umque treasure in its
wsy. This discovery, I learn, was made by die Rev. Mr. Gaisfoid,
the GredL Prafessor of that University. It is probaUe diat some
aoddent hadattended the impressions of the^ri^ volume upon vd-
fann; as it b otherwise impossible to account for its general non-ap-
pearance.

VoL iiL 455. MSS.in AelmperialLibraiy ai ViemuL In the xlvth
number of die Classical Journal^ for March 1821, there iqipears
a very particular account of the Thsodosiax Map, or Tabtda
PetMngmanOj (it having bdonged to an individual of the name of
Demderms Ignatius Peuimger, in 1714) die two Gred^ MSS. of
Dioscorides, and some GredL MSS of Homer, &c together with
slighter notices of a few other mmilar curiosities. The author is
Dm. NosHDXN.

Sftppkmenij p. xx, noU. The Shrike of St. Sbbald. I am
fiivoiured by Mr. Boosey, jun. with a tiansladon of that part
of the Guide of Nuremberg^ printed in the GCTian language,
which relates to this very curious and splendid shrine, and which
is as follows : The shrint of St Sebald was b^an m 1506 by
Peter Fisdier, and his five sons, and was finished on the 19th
June 1519 ; it required one hundred and twenty hundred weight
of metal, and cost twenty-ax thousand four hundred guldois,
which was paid by voluntary contributions. The part which is
covered with gold and silver, is five feet ten inches long, and one
foot seven inches broad inside the coffin. It was built in 18979
and cost five hundred and six guldens in gold. Fischers
work measures fifteen feet in height, eight feet bbt&i inches
in length, and four feet eight inches in breadth. It has ibis
inscription upon it : Peter Fischer, citizen of Nuremberg, par-

formed this work with his aona, and brought it to a completion in
the year 1519. To GrOD aloks is the praise, and to Si SebaJdj
the heavenly prince, the honour, with the assistance of the charity
of pious persons.^^

Lnncluii : Printed by W. Bulroer and W. Nicol,
ClevcIaiid-roWf St. James's.

COEEECTIONS.

VOLUME I.

page. line. >br rend.

67. 13. dioir. altar.

159. 21. Saint Pdaye, Barbaaan.

221. 12. vastly pretty, extremely picturesque

261. 4. Demetal, DametaL
(Thii error has been introduced hi tlie in8cripd<m of Uie oopper-plate of tlie
churdi Bo caUed.)

291. I. ancients, so andent.

— — 11. ine, five.

315. 20. a vastly. rather a

361. 20. 1712, 1753

406. 15. enbonpomt, embonpoint.

412. 32. librarian, bookseDer.

VOLUME IL

ftr re&d

62. last but 6. leatore, fieatores.

122. 2. indea. Mm.

448. 17. Transdentab, TVansoendaitals.

457. 6. infentor, restorer.

467. the reference, to the '* Qproam F^jltk* at the bottom of
page, M eiToneoiis.* the head of DenoB being introdnoed at pafe 459, aft^
prevkma leaf was cancdkd.

478. 8. MaraMmtel, MontmaiteL

VOLUME

ni.

read

20,

LamiEMk

19.

AttiuB,

Attins.

74.

20.

Fraxcs;.

24.

rmmtr.

Mei?kbat.

Memsamt,

464.

21.

512.

lMtb«l2.

cat.

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